>YmE°¥MM^SinrYo BOUGHT WITH THE INCOME OF THE PERKINS FUND 19CW- This book was digitized by Microsoft Corporation in cooperation with Yale University Library, 2008. You may not reproduce this digitized copy ofthe book for any purpose other than for scholarship, research, educational, or, in limited quantity, personal use. You may not distribute or provide access to this digitized copy (or modified or partial versions of it) for commercial purposes. ©ocutnrote Relating to THE PURCHASE & EXPLORATION OF LOUISIANA DOCUMENTS RELATING TO THE PURCHASE & EXPLORATION OF I. The Limits and Bounds of Lou isiana. By Thomas Jefferson. ii. The Exploration of the Red, the Black, and the Washita Riv ers. By William Dunbar. Printed from the original Manuscripts in the Library of the American Philosophical Society and by direc tion of the Society's Committee on Historical Documents. BOSTON and NEW TORK: Published by Houghton, Mifflin & Company. 1904. COPYRIGHT I9O4 BY THE AMERICAN PHILOSOPHICAL SOCIETY HELD AT PHILADELPHIA FOR PROMOTING USEFUL KNOWLEDGE ALL RIGHTS RESERVED Published yune 1904 FIVE HUNDRED AND FIFTY COPIES PRINTED [ I ] PUBLISHERS' NOTE. THE two documents now first printed in this vol ume have been for nearly a century in the cus tody of the American Philosophical Society. The first is a paper written by Thomas Jefferson while Presi dent of the United States, which gives a summary of the various claims of France, Spain, and England to territory in the Mississippi Valley, and lays down the boundaries of the Louisiana Purchase. The original of this paper, in Mr. Jefferson's own hand, was de posited by him in the archives of the Society in Phila delphia, where it still remains. The second is the manuscript known to historians as the Dunbar Jour nal, the importance of which has been generally re cognized, though but few have had access to it. The Journal was kept by William Dunbar of Natchez, on a voyage of exploration which, in company with Dr. George Hunter, he undertook by direction of the President in 1804, as a part of Mr. Jefferson's states manlike plan to survey the vast new territory just coming into the possession ofthe United States. This manuscript was presented to the Society by Daniel Parker, Adjutant and Inspector-General, U. S. A., on the 1 8th of July, 18 17. The Journal of William Dunbar is comparable to the more famous Lewis and Clark Journals, which were likewise placed in the keeping of the American Philosophical Society at the instance of Mr. Jef ferson, and like them is a contribution of the first [*] order to the history of the earliest exploration of the country west of the Mississippi. Dunbar himself was a man of note, and has already been honored in his native state as "the first scientist of Mississippi." Born at Thunderton near Elgin, Scotland, a younger son of Sir Archibald Dunbar, he united, as so many eminent men among his countrymen have done, practical and scientific abilities of a high order. He settled in America in 1771, and became a successful planter. Later he held important trusts under the Federal government, was a correspondent of Thomas Jefferson, Sir William Herschel, David Rittenhouse, and other famous men, and made many contribu tions of importance to the scientific interests of the country, then in their infancy. In addition to the Journal and the paper already mentioned on the boundaries of Louisiana, the vol ume includes the letter from Mr. Jefferson transmit ting his manuscript to the American Philosophical Society, with some mention of the circumstances under which it was written, and an extract from Mr. Jefferson's message to Congress, transmitting a sum mary of the Dunbar Journal. The portrait of Mr. Jefferson is from the original by Thomas Sully, which now hangs in the rooms of the American Philosophi cal Society in Philadelphia. That of Mr. Dunbar is from the portrait at " The Forest," Dunbar's estate in Mississippi. The map is a photo-lithograph from the copper-plate engraving of Nicholas King's great Lmap in the War Department at Washington. In printing these rare documents, care has been '„ taken to preserve the peculiarities of spelling and the quaint abbreviations which were characteristic of the writing of the time. [3 ] The acknowledgments of the publishers are due to the American Philosophical Society for its cour tesy in permitting the use of the manuscripts here printed, and also of the portrait of Jefferson by Sully ; to the Secretary of the Society, Dr. I. Minis Hays, for his assiduous care in the difficult task of com paring proof, verifying names, etc. ; and to Mr. Wil liam Dunbar Jenkins for the copy which he has kindly furnished of the portrait of Dunbar. Boston, May 9, 1904. ^77^7^ The LIMITS and BOUNDS OF itotttstana By Thomas Jefferson m $$£& ^MM7 ^M-Kt fcWvlSf \>\\l=£r Ql^Ol/ ^M*M ft/^^f ^SfeM Iii// W 111// yyjj w// w^ W/ y^ll wc [7] To PETER S. Du PONCEAU, Corresponding Secretary of the Literary and Historical Committee of the American Philosophical Society. Monticello, Dec. 30, '17. Dear Sir 1 NOW send you the remains of my Indian vo cabularies, some of which are perfect. I send with them the fragments of my digest of them, which were gathered up on the banks of the river where they had been strewed by the plunderers of the trunk in which they were. These will merely shew the arrangement I had given the vocabularies, according to their affinities & degrees of resemblance or dissi militude. If you can recover Cap' Lewis's collection, they will make an important addition, for there was no part of his instructions which he executed more fully or carefully, never meeting with a single In dian of a new tribe, without making his vocabulary the 1" object. What Professor Adelung mentions of the Empress Catherine's having procured many vo- [8] cabularies of our Indians, is correct. She applied to M. de la Fayette, who, thro' the aid of Gen1. Wash ington, obtained several : but I never learnt of what particular tribes. The great works of Pallas being rare I will mention that there are two editions of it the one in 2. vols, the other in 4. vols 4"! in the library I ceded to Congress, which may be consulted. Put the Professor s acd of the supposed Mexican MS. is quite erroneous, nor can I conceive thro' whom he can have recieved his information. It has probably been founded on an imperfect knolege of the following fact. Soon after the acquisition of Louisiana, Govr. Clai borne found, in a private family there, a MS. jour nal kept [I forget by whom} but by a confidential officer of the French government, proving exactly by what connivance between the agents of the Compa- gnie d' Occident, & the Spaniards, these last smuggled settlements into Louisiana, as far as Assinais, Adais etc. for the purpose of covering the contraband trade ofthe company. Claiborne being afraid to trust the original by mail, without keeping a copy, sent it on after being copied. It arrived safe and was deposited by me in the office of state. He then sent me the copy. On the destruction ofthe office at Washington by the British, apprehending the original might be involved in that destruction, I sent the copy to Col" Monroe, then Secretary of State, with a request to return it, if the original was safe, & to keep it, if not. I have heard no more of it. My intention was, & is, if it is returned to. me, to deposit it with your Committee, for [9] safe keeping or publication. While on the subject of Louisiana, I have thought I had better commit to you also an historical Memoir of my own respecting the important question of it's limits. When we first made the purchase, we knew little of it's extent, having never before been interested to enquire into it. Possessing then in my library every thing respecting America which I had been able to collect by unre mitting researches, during my residence in Europe particularly, and generally thro' my life, I availed myself of the leisure of my succeeding autumnal re cess from Washington, to bring together every thing which my collection furnished on the subject of it' s boundary. The result was the Memoire I now send you, copies of which were furnished to our Ministers at Paris and Madrid, for their information as to the extent of territory claimed under our purchase. The New Orleans MS. afterwards discovered, fur nished some valuable supplementary proofs of title. I defer writing to the Secretary at war respecting the observations of Longitude & Latitude by Caf. Lewis, until I learn from you whether they are re covered, and whether they are so compleat as to be susceptible of satisfactory calculation. I salute you with great esteem and respect. Th: Jefferson [ II ] A Chronological Series of facts relative to iloutetatia, 1673. QjPAIN declares war against France. ^4. Russel's Mod. Eur. 68. Joliet, an inhabitant of Quebec, & the Jesuit Marquette descended from Can ada down the Missisipi to the Arkan sas in 330. & returned to Canada. 8. Rayn. 158. Hennepin N. D. 293. 1675. LaSalle goes to France to sollicit au thority to explore the Misipi. Joutel xvii. 1678. The peace of Nimezuen. 4. Russ. 92. LaSalle returned from France to Canada with Tonti to undertake to explore the Misipi. Joutel xviii. 1679. He builds a fort at the mouth of the Miami of the lake. Hennepin Nouv. Decouvertes. 171. 1680. Jan. He builds a fort on the river Illi nois. Hennep. N. D. 223. Called it Crevecoeur. Feb. 29. Hennepin with 2. men leave the Illinois to descend the Misipi in a [ 12 ] bark canoe. Hennep. N.D. 228. 241. Visits the Arcansas 258. The Taensas 263. Reaches the sea. 272. Returns to the Illinois 294. 349. Nouv. voyage 96. 1. Du Pratz. 4. 1 68 1. La Salle visits fort Crevecoeur & leaves a garrison there of 15. or 16. men. Tonti. 147. 1682. La Salle & Tonti went down the Misipi & named the country Louisiana. He went to the mouths of the Misipi, ob served their latitude, & returned to Canada. Joutel xvii. xx. Tonti 153. 1. Du Pratz 5. 2. Dumont 258. says in 1679. They build a fort, called Prudhomme, in the Chickasaw country 60. leagues below Ohio. 1683. Tonti 155. Reach the ocean Apr. 7. 1683. Ib. 191. They have 60. persons in their company. Set out on their re turn Apr. 11. 1683. Ib. 196. Soon after this some Canadians, enticed by the flattering accounts of the country, went & settled near the mouth of the Misipi, & on the coast. 2. Dum. 260. 1684. Spain declares war against France, but concludes at Ratisbon a truce of 20. years. 4. Rus. 141. [ i3 ] Jul. 24. La Salle sails from Rochelle with 4. vessels to seek the mouth of the Misipi by sea. Joutel 2. Tonti 140. He had with him 100. souldiers & of ficers, in all 280. persons. Hennepin Nouveau Voyage. 12. 1685. Feb. 18. La Sale landed in the bay of S! Bernard, or S! Louis. Joutel 32. 1. Dupratz 6. Tonti 245. 2. Dum. 259 Builds a fort there. Tonti 245. 276. Left 100. men there Hen. N.V. 23. 130. persons. Joutel 45. Apr. 22. He sets out with 20. men to seek a new place. Tonti. 249. June. He makes a 2? settlement fur ther up the river. 70. persons go to it. Joutel 49. July. They abandon the first fort & go to the 2d. Joutel. 51. Called it and the neighboring bay S? Louis. Joutel 54. Tonti descends the Misipi with 40. men to meet LaSale. Tonti 220. recon noitres the coast 20. leagues East and West of the mouth. On the jour de Paques (Easter) they set out on their return. 222. Tonti builds a house on the river Arkansa & leaves 10. Frenchmen there. Tonti 225. Joutel says 6. men, 4 of whom [ H] afterwards returned to Canada. Joutel 151. This becomes permanent. 226. 1 . Dupr. 6. and is afterwards included in Law's grant, who settled it with Ger mans in 1 71 9. 2 Dum. 68. 1686. Apr. 22. LaSale sets out for Illinois by land. Hennepin N.V. 39. but returns to Fort Louis. Ib. 63. 1687. Jan. 7. He sets out again with 20 men. Henn. N. V. 67. Is murdered. Joutel 99. Henn. N.V. jy. LaSale's 2? fort at SJ Louis is afterwards abandoned. Tonti 329. Coxe. 39. After the death of LaSale, Cavelier his brother, with 7. men, set out for Can ada. Joutel 132. July. They find the house on the Ar- kansa built by Tonti with only 2. men remaining in it. Jout. 151. They leave one of their company there. 157. They strike the Misipi. Joutel 158. Dec. 3. Tonti sets out from the Illinois, & descends the Misipi a 2? time. Tonti. 317. Finds LaSale's 2? settlement broke up. 329. Finds at the Coroas 2. of the 7. French men who had separated from Cavelier after the death of La- Sale. 331. Returns to Illinois. 331. [ i5 J 1689. War commenced by Spain against France. 4. Russel. 228. 1696. Spain established a post at Pensacola. 9. Reynal. 128. 1697. Sep. 20. Treaty of Ryswick 4. Russell 248. 1698. D'Hiberville discovers the mouth ofthe Misipi. by sea. 2. Dum. 260. He is made Governor. 2. Dum. 260. He establishes a colony at Mobile, & Isle Dauphine. 260. 1 70 1 . The war of the Spanish succession begins, France & Spain being allies. 4. Rus. 317- 171 2. Sep. 14. Louis XIV. grants the exclusive commerce of Louisiana to Crozat. Possession & extent described Joutel 196. 2. Dum. 260. 171 3. Mar. 31. Treaty of Utrecht establishing the 49'!1 degree of lat. as the division between Louisiana & the British Northern possessions. 1 714. Mar. 6. Treaty of Rastadt. 171 5. The French establish Natchitoches on Red river & build a fort 35. leagues above it's mouth. 2. Dum. 65. 171 5. The Spaniards make settlements at the Assinais & Adais on one side & at Pen- [ 16 ] sacola on the other, i. Dupratz 9. 13. 14. (this was 7. or 10. leagues from Natchitoches) to restrict the French limits. 1. Dupratz. 14. 278. 1 71 6. Crozat cedes his charter to the West India company. 2. Dumont. 6. 260. 1 71 7. The company sent inhabitants to Isle Dauphine, where were some settlers before. 2. Dum. 7. Hubert and Page settle at the Natchez. 2. Dum. 60. Fort Rosalie is built. 2. Dum. 60. 171 8. Two other vessels are sent there. 2. Dum. 8. France and England declare war against Spain. Quadruple alliance. 5. Rus. 6. 1 71 9. The French take Pensacola. 1. DuPratz 189. 2. Dumont 9. The Spaniards re take it. 191. 12. The French take it again, ib. 195. 18. France and Spain make peace. 5. Rus. 7. France sends 800. settlers to Louisiana. DuPratz. xlviii. Old Biloxi is settled. 2. Dumont 34. Isle Dauphine is evacuated & every body removed to Old Biloxi, except a Ser jeant & guard of 10. men. 2. Dum. 36- 37- [ i7] New Biloxi is settled. 2. Dum. 42. 43. A cargo of Negroes arrives at Old Biloxi. ib. The grantees now settle, every one on his own grant, to wit, at Old Biloxi, Bayagoulas, Point Coupee, Natchez, Yazous, Arkansas, Black river. 2. Dum. 44. New Orleans is laid off, 30 leagues above the mouth of Misipi, where some set tlers from Canada had already settled, & the seat of government is fixed there. 2. Dum. 47. 1720. A fort on the Missouri is built & gar risoned. 2. Dum. 74. Called Fort Or leans. JefFry. 139. DelaHarpe & Dumont, with 22. men, go 300. leagues up the Arkansa. A fine country. Salt springs, marble, plais- ter, slate & gold. 2. Dum. 70. 1722. The Balise is established, & a fort built on piles. 2. Dum. §j. The Spaniards attempt a settlement among the Missouris, but are all mas sacred to the number of 1 50b. 2. Dum. 282. 1733. France, Spain & Sardinia commence war against the Emperor. 5. Rus. 27. 1735. Peace is made 5. Rus. 29. [ i8 ] 1736. The French build a fort at Tombicbee. 1. DuPratz. 85. 1743. The Family compact made. 1748. The Treaty of Aix la Chapelle. 5. Rus. 187. 1762. Spain enters as an ally with France into the war against England. Nov. 3. France cedes Louisiana West of Iberville to Spain by a secret treaty, and East of Iberville to England. Pre liminary treaty. The King of France's order to L'Abbadie. 1763. The Treaty of Paris is made. 1783. Great Britain cedes the two Floridas to Spain. Limits. IN 1680. the nearest settlements of Spain were on the river Panuco, 100. leagues West of the Misipi. Hennep. N.D. 274. Coxe 115. Coxe's Carolana. 4. In 171 5. they make the settlements at Assinais & Adais, & Pensacola. 1. DuPratz. 9. 13. 14. 278. In 1722. they attempt one on the Missouri [ i9 ] which is prevented by the Indians. 2. Du Pratz 157. 2. Dumont 282. Jeffry's hist, of the French Dominions in America. 139. DuPratz sais ' the Coast is bounded to the West by S? Bernard's bay, where M. de la Salle landed.' and again 'on the East the coast is bounded by Rio Perdido etc. a little to the East of Mobile etc. 1. DuPratz. 216. and 'the Red river bounds the country to the North.' 1. DuPratz. 272. 2. DuPratz 301. says ' Canada lies to the North of Ohio, & inclines more to the East than the source of Ohio.' [Consequently the Ohio was not in Canada, and must therefore have been in Louisiana, as these two provinces were co-terminous.] And again 'the lands of the Illinois are reputed to be a part of Louisiana.' Ib. His book was published in 1758. and the translation in 1763. The Translator of DuPratz, in his preface, says 'the mountains of New Mexico run in a chain of continued ridges from North to South, and are reckoned to divide that coun try from Louisiana, about 900. miles West from the Misipi. Pa. xi.' 171 2. The great document establishing with precision the boundaries of Louisiana, is Louis XIV's grant of this date to Crozat. to be found in the translation of Joutel. 196. [ *0 ] 1763. Treaty of Paris Art. VI. France cedes to England the river & port of Mobile & every thing on the left side of the Misipi, which she possesses or ought to possess except the island of N. Orleans: and Art. XIX. Spain cedes to England all she possesses East or S. E. of the Misipi. Thus all Louisiana E. of the Misipi. is acknoleged to England, and all English claims West of the Misipi ackno leged to Spain. England divides the country South of Georgia, & East of the Iberville into two provinces, East & West Florida, by, the Apalachicola. 1783. England, by Art. V. of the treaty cedes to Spain la Floride Orientale ainsi que la Floride Occidentale. Spain re-establishes the government of Louisi ana as before, & the government of Flor ida ; that part of what the English had called West Florida being under the Governor of N. Orleans, & the rest under the Governor of Florida. See the Baltimore American Patriot. Vol. 1 . N? 97. This is confirmed by M. D'Azara, Spanish Ambassador at Paris who told m? Livingston that Mobile made a part of Louisiana. See Liv's letter to Mon roe. Paris. May 23. 1803. Spain retrocedes to France by the treaty of S! Ildefonso. [21 ] 1803. Apr. 30. France cedes to the US. Loui siana with the same extent that it now has, & that it had when France possessed it, and such as it ought to be after treaties passed subsequently between Spain & other powers. ' Objections des Commissaires Anglois sur Fin- certitude des limites de l'Acadie etc. ' Les limites propres et anciennes de l'Acadie s'etendent depuis l'extremite de la baye Francoise jusq'au cap Canseau. L' objection d'incertitude sur ces limites ne peut done tomber que sur celles de l'interieur des ter- res. Dans de pareils cas, la regie la plus usitee et la plus convenable est d'etendre les lim ites dans l'interieur des terres j usque a la source des rivieres qui se dechargent a la cote, e'est a dire que chaque nation a de son cote les eaux pendantes. C'est ainsi qu'on en a use a la paix des Pyrenees pour fixer les limites entre la France et l'Espagne' etc. 1. Memoires de l'Amerique. 116. [ 23 ] AN Examination INTO The boundaries of Louisiana. THE French having for a century and a half been in possession of Canada, and it's inhabitants penetrating to the remote waters communicating with the S' Laurence, they learned of the Indians that, in the neighborhood of those waters, arose a great river, called the Missisipi, running due South to the sea, and through a fine country unpossessed by any white nation. In 1673. the Sieurs Joliet and Marquette, two Canadians, un dertook to explore it, descended the Missisipi as far as the river Arkansa, in 3 3 ° & returned to Canada. Their account of it inflamed the en terprise of M. de la Salle, who in 1675, went to France to sollicit authority to explore the Mis- sipi. He obtained it, returned to Canada, and in 1680. went as far as the river Illinois, on the [ 24 ] lower part of which he built & garrisoned a fort called Crevecoeur, and sent the father Hennepin with 2. men to push his discoveries down the Misipi as far as he could ; &, as preparatory to a more formal essay, going himself Northwardly. Hennepin descended the Misipi to the ocean, & returned with the information collected, to the Illinois. In 1682. La Sale & Tonti undertook their expedition ; went down the river with 60. men, named the country Louisiana, built a fort in the Chickasaw country, 60 leagues below the Ohio, which they called Prudhomme, reached the ocean, and returned to Canada the ensuing year 1683. La Sale then went to France, to obtain the means of going thence to the Misipi directly by sea. In the mean time some Canadians descend the river, & settle near it's mouth, & along the coast Eastwardly, to the island of Massacre, op posite Mobile. The government of France, enter ing at once into the view of extending an united possession along the S' Laurence & Misipi, from sea to sea equips la Sale with 4. vessels, on board of which were 280. persons, of whom 100. were officers and soldiers furnished with all necessa ries. He sailed in July 1684. from Rochelle, and missing the mouth of the Missisipi, landed Feb. 18. 1685. in the Bay of S.* Bernard to the West of it. Here he takes possession, makes two suc cessive establishments, building and garrisoning [ *5] forts at each, the second of which was called S? Louis. The Chevalier Tonti, about this time, sets out from Canada in quest of La Sale, whom he sup posed to be then on the Misipi, descends with 40. men to the mouth of the river, reconnoitres the coast 20. leagues East & West ; finding no thing of La Sale, he ascends the river, builds a house on the river Arkansa, and leaves 10. men in it, which becomes a permanent settlement, and he returns to Canada. In 1686 La Sale attempts to penetrate from fort S? Louis to the Illinois by land, but is obliged to return. In 1687 he makes another attempt with 17. men, and is murdered on the way by some of his own people. Cavelier, bro ther of La Sale, undertakes the same enterprize with 7. men; they find the house on the Arkansa built by Tonti, with only two men remaining in it; they leave a third, strike the Misipi, and reach Canada. Tonti descends the river a second time, finds two Frenchmen who had separated from Cavelier settled at the Coroas, and returns to the Illinois. In 1689. a war commenced between France and Spain, which continuing till the treaty of Ryswick in 1697. suspended the aids of France to her colony: but in 1698. D'Iberville was sent as it's governor with recruits. He discovers the mouths ofthe Misipi, and settles his new recruits [26] at Isle Massacre, which he calls Isle Dauphine, and at Mobile, where they find the Canadians who had settled there in 1683. Spain had, dur ing the war, to wit, in 1696. taken a counter- post at Pensacola. The result from these facts is that France had formal & actual possession of the coast from Mobile to the bay of SJ Bernard, & from the mouth of the Misipi up into the country as far as the river Illinois. The nearest Spanish settle ments at this time were on the River Panuco, to the West, 1 00. leagues from the Misipi, and at Pensacola, to the East . . leagues distant. There does not appear as yet indeed to have been any formal declaration of the limits of Louisiana : but the practice of nations, on making discov eries in America, has sanctioned a principle that ' when a nation takes possession of any extent of sea-coast, that possession is understood as extend ing into the interior country to the sources of the rivers emptying within that coast, to all their branches, & the country they cover.' 1. Mem. de FAmerique 116. It was in support of this principle of virtual and declared possession, that France entered into the war of 1755 against Great Britain, whose settlements began now to reach the Eastern waters of the Misipi, and who opposed the claim of France, not on a denial of this principle, but on a prior possession taken & declared by repeated charters, thro' the space [ 27] of an hundred years preceding, as extending from sea to sea. France then had possession of the Misipi, and all the waters running into it, and ofthe sea coast and all it's rivers & territories on them from Mobile to the bay of S^ Bernard. The river Perdido, midway between the adver sary possessions of Mobile & Pensacola, became afterwards the settled boundary between Spain & France, in the East, and the Rio Norte, or Bravo, midway between the bay of S? Bernard and the river Panuco, the then nearest settle ment of Spain, was considered by France, if not by Spain, and on the same fair grounds as in the other quarter, as the boundary between them in the West. Besides being midway be tween the actual possessions of the two nations, that river formed a natural and well marked boundary, extending very far into the country Northwardly. And accordingly we find by sev eral * maps, some of them published by authority of the French government, and some Spanish maps, that France claimed to that river. This claim has not been abridged, as far as is known, * I possess three antient maps which mark the Rio bravo & it's Eastern branch as the dividing boundary between Louisiana & Mexico, i. Moll's map of the West Indies & adjacent countries. 2. Moll's map of Louisiana etc. pub lished in 1720. in which the Southwestern parts of Louisi ana are said to be copied from a French map published in Paris in 17 18. and 3. Homann's Spanish map of Louisiana of about the same date. [28 ] by any public treaty ; and those which are se cret, if any such have taken place, cannot bind nations having no notice of them, & succeed ing fairly to the rights of France, as publicly avowed & believed to exist.* But the extent of Louisiana into the interior country is not left merely on the principle of it's dependency on the coast into which it's waters disembogue : nor on the settlements extending up it's great rivers, the Misipi, the Missouri, & the Illinois; but on an authoritative and public document announcing it's extent, and making a temporary disposition of it. This is the Letter patent of Sep. 14. 171 2. by which Louis XIV. grants to the Sieur Anthony Crozat the exclu sive commerce of that country for 15. years. The following extracts from it ascertain the extent of the country. ' Louis by the grace of god, king of France & Na varre to all etc. c The care we have always had to procure the wel fare & advantage of our subjects having induced us etc. to seek for all possible opportunities of enlarg ing & extending the trade of our American colonies, we did, in the year 1683. give our orders to under take a discovery of the countries & lands which are situated in the Northern part of America, between * To this may be added the verbal declaration of the French Comml to those of the US. on thd delivery of pos session, that his positive instructions from his government were to take possession to the Rio Bravo. 1 29 ] New France & New Mexico : & the Sieur de la Sale, to whom we committed that enterprize, having had success enough to confirm a belief that a communica tion might be settled from New France to the gulph of Mexico, by means of large rivers; this obliged us, immediately after the peace of Ryswick, to give orders for the establishing a colony there, & maintaining a garrison, which has kept and preserved the possession we had taken in the very year 1683. of the lands, coasts & islands which are situated in the gulph of Mexico, between Carolina on the East, & Old & New Mexico on the West. But a new war having broke out in Europe shortly after, there was no possibility till now, of reaping from that new colony the advantages that might have been expected from thence etc. And whereas upon the information we have received, con cerning the disposition and situation of the said coun tries known at present by the name of the province of Louisiana, we are of opinion that there may be es tablished therein a considerable commerce etc. we have resolved to grant the commerce of the country of Louisiana to the Sieur Anthony Crozat etc. For these reasons etc. we, by these presents, signed by our hand, have appointed, & do appoint the said Sieur Crozat to carry on a trade in all the lands possessed by us, and bounded by New Mexico, & by the lands of the English of Carolina, all the establishment, ports, havens, rivers, & principally the port & haven of the Isle Dauphine, heretofore called Massacre, the river of S\ Louis, heretofore called Missisipi, from the edge of the sea as far as the * Illinois ; together with the river S\ Philip, heretofore called the Missourys, and * The French & Spaniards called by the name of the Illinois, or Illinois country, the whole country on both sides [ 3°] of S'. Jerome, heretofore called Ouabache, with all the countries, territories, lakes within land, and the rivers which fall directly or indirectly into that part of the river S! Louis.' The Articles. I. Our pleasure is that all the aforesaid lands, countries, streams, rivers & islands be, and remain comprised under the name of the government of Louisiana, which shall be depend ant upon the general government of New France, to which it is subordinate : & further that all the lands which we possess from the Illi nois be united etc. to the general government of New France, & become part thereof etc' [here follow 15. other articles relating to commerce only] 'Given at Fontainebleau, the 14* day of Sep. in the year of grace 171 2 and of our reign the 70* Louis. By the king Phelipeaux.' Here then is a solemn & public declaration sufficiently special to shew that all the waters running directly or indirectly into the Misipi, and the country embraced by them, are held and acted on by France, under the name of the province of Louisiana ; and is a full & unequiv ocal supplement, if any supplement were neces sary, to the titles derived, 1. from the actual settlements on the river and it's waters, 2. from the possession of the coast, & 3. from the prin ciple which annexes to it all the depending of the Upper Misipi. That on the Eastern side was called East Illinois, that on the West side West Illinois. [ 3i ] waters. The treaties of Ryswick, in 1 697, where France & Spain were adversary powers, & those of Utrecht in 171 3. & Rastadt in 1 714. where they were allies, by their silence, as well as by their provisions, as to these countries, must be considered as sanctioning the rights of France to this province : to which add the progress made by France, undisturbed & unquestioned, by Spain, in extending her settlements ad libitum within them, till 1763. It is true that in 171 5. some Spaniards made small settlements at the Assinais, & Adais, & in 1722. attempted one on the Missouri. The last was prevented by the Indians, and the former were connived at by the Agents of France to favor a smugling com merce with New Mexico. But these contraband encroachments cannot weigh as evidence of ownership against the possession taken by France 30. years before, & the solemn establishment of boundary by Louis XIV. War breaking out between them in 1 71 8. the French took Pensacola ; the Spaniards retook it, but the French recovered & retained it till the peace in 1 7 1 9 when it was restored to Spain ; and from this epoch the river Perdido has been the acknowledged and undisturbed boundary between Louisiana and Florida. The boundaries of Louisiana then, as held by France, were the sea-coast & islands from the river Perdido to the Rio Norte or Bravo, [ 32] then up the Rio Bravo to it's source ; thence to the highlands encompassing the waters of the Misipi, and along those highlands round the heads of the Missouri & Misipi & their waters to where those highlands assume the name of the Alleganey or Apalachian mountains, thence along those mountains, and the highlands en compassing the waters of the Mobile, to the source of the Perdido, & down that to the ocean. In opposition to these claims, both of France and Spain, were those of the then English col onies, now the US. whose charters extended from sea to sea, and consequently covered all Louisiana & Mexico, above the parallel of lat itude which formed the Southern boundary of Georgia. These adversary claims were settled by the war of 1755— 1763. and the treaty of Paris which closed it, and which made the Misipi & Iberville the Western limit of the English pos sessions, and thenceforward the Eastern limit of Louisiana. This war had begun between France & Eng land, Spain being unconcerned in the grounds of it. In the beginning, France had sensibly the advantage, but after awhile it's successes were signally on the side of England. In 1762 Spain entered into it as a volunteer & ally of France. Great Britain immediately attacked & took the town of Havanna, & an important portion ofthe [ 33 ] island of Cuba ; which imminently endanger ing the continental possessions of Spain within the gulf, and her communication with them, negociations for peace were very soon set on foot. Great Britain, in exchange for her con quest in Cuba, required Florida, & that part of Louisiana from the Perdido to the Iberville. Besides the just sympathy which France felt for Spain, who had sustained this incalculable loss by friendly endeavors to aid her, she was bound by the family compact, lately renewed, Article XVIII. ' to consider the interests of Spain as her own, & to share in it's losses and advantages.' A considerable change too had taken place in the minds of the government of France, against the possession of distant colonies, which could not be protected but by a great navy. France there fore, by a secret treaty, Nov. 3. 1762. (being the same day on which they publicly signed the preliminary articles with Gr. Britain) consented to cede all Louisiana to Spain, in order to en able her, by the sacrifice of such part of it as she thought proper, to ransom Cuba, and to indemnify her for the loss of Florida, required also by Great Britain to make up the equiva lent. The portion of Louisiana from Iberville to Perdido therefore, ceded to Great Britain by the definitive treaty of Feb. 10. 1763. did in substance move from Spain to Gr. Britain, altho' France, as not having publicly conveyed [ 34] it to Spain, was the formal conveyor to Eng land. Yet she acted herein merely as the friend & agent of Spain, who was become in truth the real proprietor of all Louisiana. The importance of seeing this transaction in it's true light will hereafter appear. England immediately laid off this portion of Louisiana, with so much of Florida as laid West of the Apalachicola, into a separate govern ment, to which she gave the name of West Florida ; and the residue of Florida into an other government, to which she gave the name of East Florida. And Spain, now proprietor of Louisiana, & of course free to curtail it's future boundary to the Westward, according to her own convenience, extended the limits & juris diction of New Mexico to the waters of the river Mexicana inclusively. But this cannot dis prove the former extent of Louisiana, as it had been held & ceded by France ; but was done in virtue of the right ceded by France. The war of 1775— 1783. began between Great Britain & the US. but France and Spain at length became parties to it. By the treaty of Paris of 1783. which terminated it, Gr. Britain was constrained to restore to Spain Florida, and the territory East of the Iberville, which she had received at the close of the former war in exchange for Cuba. If the portion of Louisi ana comprised in it had really moved from [ 35] France, then the restitution of the portion be tween Iberville & Perdido should have been to France, and that of Florida only to Spain. But as the whole had moved substantially from Spain, the whole was restored to her. On re entering into possession Aug. 18. 1769. she con tinued the English annexation of the Eastern portion of Louisiana with a part of Florida, under the name of West Florida ; restoring however the whole to the jurisdiction of the Governor of Louisiana, residing at N. Orleans : and in public * instruments, as well as in com mon parlance that portion has been' spoken of under the names of Louisiana, or of West Flor ida indifferently. The nation of France had seen with consid erable dissatisfaction the separation of Louisiana from the mother country. That province had ever been viewed by it with great partiality. It was inhabited by their relations & fellow citi zens : & they considered Spain, in the immen sity of her possessions, as not entitled to such a sacrifice from France. Besides she had now got back both Florida & Cuba : and there was no justice in her continuing to retain Louisiana, which had been ceded to her only as an indem nification for the loss of one, & the means of getting back the other. As soon therefore as the successful administration ofthe first Consul of * One of these was deposited in the office of state. [ 36] France had raised her into a condition for re- demanding from other nations what she deemed her rights, Spain was required to make restitu tion of Louisiana, under the friendly cover indeed of an exchange, but it's inequality shews it was but a cover. The real grounds of restitution re quired that it should not be mutilated, but full and entire as she received it. For what had she ever given for it ? She was compleatly replaced in her antient possessions. On what just ground then could she propose to retain any portion of the equivalent ceded only as an indemnity for them ? Accordingly a compleat retro-cession was provided for by the treaty of S? Ildefonso of Oct. i. 1800. by definitions studiously formed to reach every thing which had been ceded to or for her by France. By that instrument she re-cedes to France the colony or province of Louisiana, with the same extent 1. that it now has in the hands of Spain. 2. that it had when France possessed it, and 3. such as it ought to be after the treaties passed subsequently between Spain and other powers. That is 1 . she is to recede the antient country of Louisiana, as it is now re covered back into the hands of Spain & held by her under the name of Louisiana, or West Florida, or Mexico, or by whatever other names she or other powers may since have chosen to designate certain parts of it, or to sever it by overlapping Mexico on it's West, and West [ 37] Florida on it's Eastern quarter : she is to recede the thing, as it is in her hands, unaffected by new names. To make it still plainer, she is to retrocede it 2s? with the same extent that it had when France possessed it. Now France never possessed it one day with any less extent than from the Perdido to the Rio Norte, & inland to the sources of all it's rivers. The whole of this extent she transferred on the same day by two treaties of equal date, to wit, all Westward of the Misipi & Iberville to Spain, & all East ward to Great Britain. But, of the Eastern por tion, Spain having since recovered back all be low 3 1 °. of latitude, that, with the Western side, composes Louisiana, as now in the hands of Spain, and as it had been possessed by France. But, not to disturb the right of the US. to the portion North of 310. and to shew that if was only so much of the Louisiana held by France, as was now in the hands of Spain, it is expressly limited 3^ to be such as it ought to be after the treaties passed subsequently between Spain & other powers. Subsequently to what ? To the ces sion of the country by France. When was that session ? Nov. 3. 1762. and Feb. 10. 1763. What are the treaties subsequent to this ? Those af fecting the limits of Louisiana are the treaty of Sep. 3. 1783. with Great Britain, & that of Oct. 27. 1795. with the US. The former was a restitution, by Gr. Britain to Spain, of Florida, [38 ] & the portion of Louisiana from the Perdido to the Iberville : and consequently, after this treaty, the extent of Louisiana ought to be, as again con solidated to the Perdido. But inasmuch as by the latter of these two treaties, Spain had con firmed to the US. a degree of latitude [from 3 2°. to 31°.] which she had long contended to be an unceded part, of Louisiana, & con sequently not within the limits of the US., therefore by this provision, that right is saved to the US. & the extent of Eastern Louisiana, after this treaty, ought to be only to the latitude of3i°. Should it be alledged that this confirmation of the diminutions of Louisiana by treaties sub sequent to it's alienation by France, goes to the treaty of 1763. with Gr. Britain also; the an swer is that this treaty was simultaneous with the alienation, & not subsequent to it, and there fore could not be within the scope of this defi nition. The confirmation too is in favor of treaties made by Spain, with other nations. That with Great Britain is by France and Spain. But it might also be justly observed that Louisiana was not lessened in it's dimensions by that treaty ; it was only divided, the Eastern portion thereof transferred to Great Britain, the Western to Spain ; who might new-name a part of it West Florida, & a part Mexico, for their internal purposes, as they pleased ; but when the portion newly called [ 39 ] West Florida came back to the hands of Spain, it was still a part of antient Louisiana, as possessed by France, as now in the hands of Spain, & un alienated by subsequent treaties of Spain with other powers. On the whole, the intention of the treaty of S? Ildefonso is clearly this. France had in 1763. generously ceded all Louisiana to, or for Spain. Spain consented that the Eastern portion of it, below Georgia, together with her Florida, should go to recover Cuba. Afterwards however, in another war, by the arms of France and of the US. (for Spain came in late, & then did little more than waste her resources on the rock of Gibraltar) she recovers back, and has secured to her, her antient Florida, & the Eastern por tion of Louisiana, below Georgia. The treaty of SJ Ildefonso therefore meant to review this whole transaction, & to restore France & Spain to the Status quo prior to the war of 1755.— 63. Spain being now in possession of her original colonies of Florida and Cuba, it was just, & was meant, that France should also be reinstated in Louisiana, so far as Spain, while it was in her hands, had not transferred portions of it by per manent alienations to other powers. She con fined her reclamation therefore to the part of her antient possession which was in the hands of Spain, not touching the portions which had been validly transferred to the US. [ 4° ] If Spain then were not to deliver the country from the Iberville & Missipi to the Perdido, this would not be delivering Louisiana with the ex tent it had when France possessed it, & before it had ever been dismembered : nor with the extent it now has in the hands of Spain, since it has been restored to it's antient & integral form : nor such as it ought to be after the treaty sub sequently passed with England in 1783. And we trust that these definitions are too exact & unequivocal, & Spain too just, to admit any doubt of what we are entitled to demand, & she bound to deliver. Whatever Louisiana was, as retroceded by Spain to France, such exactly it is, as ceded by France to the US. by the treaty of Paris of April 30. 1803. Sept. 7, 1 803 P. S. The Northern boundary of Lou isiana, Coterminous with the pos sessions of England. THE limits of Louisiana have been spoken of in the preceding statement, as if those established to the West & North, by the charter of Louis XIV. remained still unaltered. In the West they are so, as already explained. But, in [4i ] the North, a material change has taken place. With this however it was unnecessary to com plicate our subject, while considering the inter ests of Spain alone : because the possessions of Great Britain, & not of Spain, are coterminous with Louisiana on it's Northern boundary. We will now therefore proceed to examine the state of that boundary, as between Gr. Britain & the US. Disputes having arisen between Gr. Britain & France as to the limits between Canada & Louisiana on the one side, & the countries of the Hudson's bay, & North Western companies on the other, it was agreed by the treaty of Utrecht (171 3) Art. X. that 'Commissaries should be forthwith named by each party to determine the limits between the bay of Hud son and the places appertaining to the French, & to describe & settle the boundaries between the other British and French colonies in those parts ' these Commissaries accordingly fixed the Northern boundaries of Canada & Louisiana, by a line beginning on the Atlantic, at a Cape or Promontory in 58°-3o' N. Lat. thence South Westwardly to the lake Misgosink, or Mista- sin, thence farther S. W, to the lat. of 49? North from the Equator, and along that line indefi nitely. [Hutchins's topographical description of Louisiana, pa. 7.] Thus the Northern boundary of Canada and Louisiana became fixed, 6c the [42] latter particularly became changed to the par allel of 49? from the Equator, instead of the highlands inclosing the Northern waters run ning directly or indirectly into the Misipi, as settled by Louis XIV. Canada being, by the peace of 1763. transferred to England, it's South ern boundary was settled by the treaty of 1783. with the US. along the S? Croix & highlands bounding the Southern waters of the S' Lau rence, the 45* degree of latitude to the water communication between the lakes, and along that communication to the lake of the woods; whence the line of the US. was to run due West, till it should strike the Missisipi. Now, accord ing to the maps of that time, and particularly Mitchell's on * which the boundary of 1783. was predicated, the line of 49! passes through the Southern part of the lake of the Woods : and the North Western point of the lake of the Woods, as observed by Thompson, Astronomer to the North West company, is in Lat. 490— 37'. [McKenzie's 2. voyage chapt. 13.] At that lake therefore the English negotiators ceased to pur sue the water communication, because, South of the latitude of that lake, they owned nothing : and to have followed the water line further Northwardly, would have broken in upon the continuity of their Southern boundary. Canada * The identical map used by the negociators, with their MS. marks on it, is deposited in the office of state. [43 ] was thus closed to the West, by it's Northern & Southern limits meeting in a point in the lake ofthe Woods. It was at that time believed that the Missisipi, heading North of 49? would have been intersected by that line of latitude, and our possessions consequently closed. But subse quent information rendered it probable that that river did not extend so far North; (it is now said only to 47? 38') and consequently that there was an unclosed space between it's source & the lake of the woods. Without undertaking to de cide what were the limits dividing Great Britain & Spain in that quarter, we concluded it would be safest to settle, as occasions should ofFer, our boundary there with both nations, on the prin ciple of ' valeat quantum valere potest ' with each. Having to form a convention with Eng land for ascertaining our limits in the North Eastern quarter, we took that occasion for clos ing, as far as depended on her right, the vacancy in our North Western angle; & therefore pro posed it to her. While negociations were going on at London for this purpose, an opportunity occurred of our acquiring Louisiana : and the stipulations being promptly concluded, a treaty for that acquisition was actually signed at Paris twelve days before that of London was con cluded. But this treaty was not known to the negociators of either party at London ; nor could the rights acquired by it, be affected by arrange- [44] ments instituted & compleated there merely for the purpose of explaining and supplying the provisions in the treaty of 1783. In result, this acquisition rendered these explanations unneces sary, and the V* article respecting them merely nugatory. For England holding nothing in that quarter Southward of 49! the line proposed in the V* article, from the North Western point of the lake of the Woods Southwardly to the nearest source of the Misipi, is through a coun try, not belonging to her, but now to the US. Consequently the consent of no other nation can now \?e necessary to authorize it. It may be run, or not, and in any direction which suits ourselves. It has become a merely municipal object respecting the line of division which we may chuse to establish between two of our ter ritories. It follows then that the V* Article of the Convention of London of May 12. 1803. should be expunged, as nugatory ; and that in stead of it, should be substituted one declaring that the dividing line between Louisiana & the British possessions adjacent to it, shall be from the North Western point of the Lake of the Woods, along the water edge Westwardly to it's intersection with the parallel of 49? North from the Equator, then along that parallel (as estab lished by the treaty of Utretcht between Gr. Britain & France) until it shall meet the limits of the Spanish province next adjacent. And it [45] would be desirable to agree further that, if that parallel shall, in any part, intersect any waters of the Missouri, then the dividing line shall pass round all those waters to the North until it shall again fall into the same parallel, or meet the limits of the Spanish province next adja cent. Or, unapprised that Spain has any right as far North as that, & Westward of Louisiana, it may be as well to leave the extent of the boundary of 49? indefinite, as was done on the former occasion. Jan. 15. 1804. THE EXPLORATION OF THE RED, THE BLACK, AND THE WASHITA RIVERS. This Manuscript presented to the American Philosophical Society by D. Parker Phil? 1 8 July 1817 Recd thro' Dr Cutbush [3 ] Extract from the JHeSSage from the President of the United States, read in Congress, February 19, 1806. "IT TAVING been disappointed, after consider- ¦ I able preparation, in the purpose of sending -*--*- an exploring party up that river, in the summer of one thousand eight hundred and four, it was thought best to employ the autumn of that year in procuring a knowledge of an interesting branch of the [Red] river called the Washita. This was under taken under the direction of Mr. Dunbar, of Natchez, a citizen of distinguished science, who had aided, and continues to aid us, with his disinterested and valuable services in the prosecution of these enterprises. He ascended the river to the remarkable hot springs near it, in latitude 34°3i'4".i6, longitude 920 50' 45" west from Greenwich, taking its courses and distances, and correcting them by frequent celestial observations. Extracts from his observations, and copies of his map of the river, from its mouth to the hot springs, make part ofthe present communications. The examination of the Red river itself, is but now commencing. TH: JEFFERSON. February 19, 1806. u^v^t ^^UJwa^ JOURNAL OF A Voyage Commencing at S[ Catherines landing, on the East bank ofthe Afissisippi, proceeding downwards to the mouth of the Red river, and from thence ascending that river, the Black river and the JVa- shita river as high as the Hot- Springs in the proximity of the last mentioned river. [6] This voyage was undertaken by the late William Dunbar Esq of Natchez 1804 in Company with George Hunter. — This Journal was kept by Mr Dunbar — & is 200 pages The Geometrical Survey ofthe Rout will be found at the End consist'g of 64 Pages in his hand writing. Philad. 18 July 18 17 Jn. Vaughan JOURNAL OF A VOrAGE SET out from S' Catherine's landing in fi8o4 the afternoon. The Latitude of this 1 October 16th place is 3 1° 26' 30" North; and Longi- ues ay tude 6h 5' 56" — west of Greenwich. A little below are the white cliffs 5 leagues below the Natchez the face ofthe cliffs is chiefly white sand surmounted by pine ; the cliffs are from 1 00 to 200 feet high ; when the waters are low the basis of the cliffs are uncovered consisting of clay of different colours and some beds of ochre covered here and there by a thin lamina of iron ore ; small springs possessing a petrifying property flow over the clay and ochre; numberless logs and pieces of timber converted into stone are strewed about the beach. Fine pure argil of various colours chiefly white and red is found here. Encamped at night upon an Island 7 miles below the place of departure. Set 1804 October Wednesday 17th [8] Set off; passed Fort Adams, and six miles ? farther the line of demarcation, and arrived at the mouth of red river about nine miles below the line of demarcation ; encamped just within its mouth ; the waters of this river have a red appearance from a rich fat earth or marl of that colour born down by the floods from which it derives its name ; the mouth of the river is about five hundred and fifty yards wide : here we com menced taking. the meanders of the river by course and time depending upon the log to inform us of our rate of going as well as the velocity of the Current ; there is however no sensible Current at the mouth : the banks on both sides are here clothed with willows, the land is low and subject to inundation to the height of 30 or more feet above the present level of the waters, the mouth of the red river is accounted to be 75 leagues from New-or leans and 3 miles above the exit of the Chafalaya or Opelousa river which was probably the contin uation of the red river, when perhaps its waters did not unite with those of the Missisippi ex cepting during the inundation. M de Ferrer has settled the Latitude and Longitude of this place ; the first at 3 1° 1' 1 5" N. and the last at 6h 7' 11" west of Greenwich. Thursday 18*? Set off up the river, remarked vegetation to be surprisingly luxuriant along the banks owing no [9] no doubt to the rich red marie yearly deposited [1804 by the floods of the river — willows grow to a l°ctober good size, but other forest trees are much smaller than those seen upon the banks ofthe Missisippi, which may be owing to the newly formed soil or its excessive richness. The river narrows grad ually as we advance : at noon it was about 200 yards wide. Got out the instruments, which requiring a good deal of adjustment we were unable to make perfect observations. The Lat itude 3 1 °. 8'. 54". 6, perhaps accurate enough to correct the traverse of the river.* The banks of the river are luxuriantly clothed with pea- vine and several kinds of grasses yielding seed, of which geese and ducks are very greedy : got our log line prepared and divided into perches — hove the log and found we went at the rate of 4 perches in half a minute, i. e. 1 y2 mile per hour — very slow — Soldiers do not exert themselves at the oar ; came to, for the night having made nearly 1 3 miles — hove the lead in the middle of the river and found 1 1 fathoms. There are generally willows growing on one side of the river, and on the other the same small growth of forest trees continues, consist ing chiefly of black oak, packawn, hickory, elm &c. The Trees are so exceedingly grand & lofty upon the banks of the Missisippi, that by * The place of observation was at the extremity of the Course N 320 E 17' to a p? on the left. comparison [ to ] 1804 \ comparison those bordering on this river seem October J ^^^^ anci appear to bear a kind of propor tion to the magnitude of their own river. The extremes of temperature were from 460 to 48° of Farhenheits thermometer. Made this day 1 2 %0 miles. Friday 19* Continued our rout up the river ; having given the Soldiers this morning a few words of advice and encouragement, they improved con siderably in activity and cheerfulness, hove the log and found we went 7 perches per half min ute, the Current yet continues so moderate as to offer no impediment to our rowing along shore therefore not worth estimating : landed before 1 2 to observe and for dinner. Latitude 3 1 ° 14' 50". 1. After dinner caught a runaway negro; proceeded on to the confluence of red and black river in Latitude 3 1° 1 5' 48" which by our reck oning appears to be 26^ miles from the Mis sisippi, the Contrast of the two rivers is great, the red river being charged with red marly earth and the other a clear river gives it by comparison a dark appearance, hence the name of black river — Each river is about 150 yards and when united about 200 yards wide. Sounded in the black river and found 20 feet black sand, little or no current. Took specimens of the red marl of red river bank. The water of the black river is rather clearer than that of the Ohio and of a warm [ " ] warm temperature, probably owing to the waters f 1804 which flow into it from the valley ofthe Mis-l°ctober sisippi particularly from the Catahoola. Made 15 miles 102 perches. Continue ascending the river ; Thermometer Saturday 20 47° Temperature of the water 732 a spring issu ing from the river bank 662 Forest trees on the banks chiefly red and black oak interspersed with ash, paccawn, hickory, some elms, pirsimon &c ; several kinds of grass and many humble plants in flower, so that even at this season our country affords employment for the Botanist. Great lux uriance of vegetation along the shore, grass very rank, and a thick curtain of shrubberry of a deep green ; the soil black marl mixed with a mod erate proportion of sand, resembling much the soil on the Missisippi banks, yet the forest trees are not lofty like to those on the margin of the great river, but resembling the growth on the red river. I omitted mentioning in its proper place, that the last single inundation of the red river appears to have deposited on the high bank a stratum of red marl above *4 inch thick now dry ; some specimens were taken. Took a me ridian altitude ofthe Sun, from which the Lati tude deduced was 3 1 ° 22' 46". 6 — observed Canes growing on several parts of the right bank, a proof that the land is not deeply overflowed, perhaps from 1 to 3 feet : the banks have the appearance [ ^ ] 1 804 \ appearance of stability, very little willow or other October j productions of a newly formed soil being seen on either side : the solid high bank being deeply shaded by vegetation from the humble creep ing plant to the spreading oak. Encamped at sun-set. Sounded ; 5 fathoms — black sand — Extremes of the Thermometer 470— 80? Made this day 1 3 miles 40 perches. Sunday 21V Thermometer before sun-rise 60? Continue ascending ; no current to imped us, for altho' there be a feeble current along the principal thread of the stream, yet as this is deflected from bend to bend, we easily avoid its influence by directing our course from point to point or rather passing a little under the points, and in fact where there is any current, a compensation is found by the counter current or eddy under the points. The river is now only 80 yards wide ; the timber becomes larger, the banks in some places 40 feet high, yet liable to inundation, not from the floods of this small river, but from the intrusion of its more powerful neighbour the Missisippi : The lands decline rapidly (as in all alluvial countries) from the margin to the Cy press swamps, where more or less water stag nates all the year round. The current of the river is still so insensible even in the thread of stream, that we take no account of it : at & a.m. we arrived at an Island, small but elevated, said to [ i3 ] to be the only one in this river for more than J 1804 100 leagues ascending. On the left bank near [October the Island is a small settlement commenced by a man and his wife : a covered frame of rough poles without walls serves for a house, and a Couple of acres of indian corn had been culti vated, which suffices to stock their little maga zine with bread for the year ; the forest supplies Venison, Bear, turkey &c, the river fowl and fish ; the skins of the wild animals and an abun dance of the finest honey being carried to market enables the new settler to supply himself largely with all other necessary articles ; in a year or two he arrives at a state of independence, he purchases horses, cows & other domestic animals, perhaps a slave also who shares with him the labours and the productions of his fields & of the adjoining forests. How happy the contrast, when we compare the fortune of the new settler in the U. S. with the misery of the half starving, oppressed and degraded Peasant of Europe ! ! — The banks here are not less than 40 feet above the present level of the river water and but rarely overflowed; the nearest road to the high lands at the Rapid-settlement on the red river, nearly west is said to be 40 miles thro' an inundated alluvial country ; it is probable the direct dis tance does not much exceed one half, the nu merous lakes in the overflowed lands rendering the road very circuitous : both banks are clothed with [ H] 1804 \ with rich Cane-brake, pierced by many creeks October j fit to carry boats during the inundation : saw many Cormorants and the stately Hooping Crane : Geese and Ducks not yet abundant ; they arrive in myriads with the rains & winter cold : Landed before noon to observe : we had been disappointed at the hour of breakfast by clouds in making observations for the magnetic variation and for regulating the time & rate of going of the watch, preparatory to the lunar observation, & now apprehended the same dis appointment, the heavens being loaded with flying clouds : just before the Sun was expected on the meridian, a dense cloud concealed him from view, when he reappeared he was already dipped a little ; the latitude deduced is undoubt edly too far North 310 37' 5 2". 5 the sun had therefore not attained his meridian altitude. This afternoon found the shore favorable for tracking, (i. e.) running along shore & towing the boat ; rate of going by log a little improved 5 perches p! j4 minute. At 3? p. m. thermf 83°. — The banks have a regular shelving slope from the top to the water's edge & are totally covered with the most luxuriant herbage con sisting chiefly of 5 or 6 kinds of strong grass yielding vast crops of seed nearly mature, upon which Geese and Ducks get surprisingly fat : we shot some water fowl of the Duck kind, whose web-foot was partially divided, the body covered [«s] covered with a bluish or lead coloured plumage ; /1804 they were extremely fat and excellent, resem- L°ctober bling in taste the Canvass-back. The teal of these rivers is also very fat and fine. Wind S.S.E. and cloudy. Encamped. Extremes of the ther mometer 6o°-83°. Made this day 14 miles 59 perches. Thermometer before sun-rise 65? Wind S.S.E. Monday 22? cloudy. A few drops of rain before day : set off as soon as we could get the men ready & on board. — Soldiers slow in their movements — continues cloudy & threatens rain. Green matter floating on the river, supposed to come from the Catahoola and other lakes and bayoos of stagnant water, which when raised a little by rain flow into the black river. Saw also many patches of an aquatic plant resembling little Islands, some floating on the surface of the river, and others adhering to or resting on the shore and logs ; examined the plant & found it to be a hollow jointed stem with roots of the same form ; extremely light with very narrow willow shaped leaves projecting from the joint, embracing however the whole of the tube ex tending to the next inferior joint or knot; the extremity of each branch is terminated by a spike of very slender and narrow seminal leaves from one to two inches in length and l/lo or less in breadth, producing its seed on the under side of [ 16 ] 1804 \ of the leaf in a double row, almost in contact, October J ^ grams alternately placed in perfect regular ity: I have not been able to detect the flower, so as to be able to determine the class and order to which the plant -belongs, it is not probably new; I at first supposed it might be the same which is described by Mr Bartram as occupying large portions of the surfaces of rivers in East Florida, but upon examination I found it to be entirely different. The day continued cloudy ; at noon it rained, we had consequently no observation for the Lat itude. At 2b. p. m. therms at 790 — the afternoon continued cloudy. The current is yet insensible as to any opposition made to our progress. Sounded in the evening, found 3^ fathoms, the river being now considered very low. Extremes of thethermf 65°-79° Wind S.S.E. Cloudy — made 13 miles 76 perches. Tuesday 23? Thermometer 68° — the river for several nights past has fallen about 3 inches perpendicular each night : observed a great number of muscles and periwincles along shore : the muscle is of the kind commonly called pearl-muscle, & by means of its long tongue makes considerable progress along the bottom & upon the beaches of the river when under water : our people had a quantity of them dressed and found them to be agreeable food : to me they were tough and unpalatable. [ >7 ] unpalatable. The wind altho' a head but not j 1804 strong, we got along pretty well; but towards I °ctober n1! a. m. it became much stronger, and we made little way. Notwithstanding the cloudy state of the atmosphere we were fortunate in getting a good meridian observation, by which it appears we were in Lat: 300 36' 29" nearly 3 miles higher than the town of Natchez : after dinner proceeded to the mouth of the Catahoola on the left and landed to get information from a french man settled here : he has a grant of land from the Spanish government, has made a small settlement and keeps a ferry-boat for crossing men & horses traveling to or from Natchez and the settlements on red river and on the Washita river : the Country here is all alluvial ; in pro cess of time the rivers shutting up ancient pas sages & elevating the banks over which their waters pass, no longer communicate with the same facility as formerly; the consequence of which naturally is that many large tracts for merly subject to annual inundation are now entirely exempt from that inconvenience : such is the situation of a most valuable tract upon which this french man is settled : his house is placed upon an Indian mount with several oth ers in view : there is also a species of rampart surrounding this place & one very elevated mount; all of which I propose to view and describe on my return, our situation not now admitting [ i8 ] 1804 "[admitting delay: the soil here is equal to the October J ^est ]yiissisippi bottoms ; the proprietor says the high mount is not less than 80 feet perpendic ular, of this we shall form some estimate at our return. We obtained from him the following list of distances from the mouth of the red river to the Post on the Washita called Fort Miro. From the mouth of Red river to the mouth of black river ..... To the mouths of Catahoola, Washita & Tenza ...... To the River Ha-ha on the right To the Prairie de Villemont on the same To Bayoo Louis on the same — rapids here To Bayoo Boeufs on the same To the Prairie Noyee (drowned Savannah) To Pine point on the left . To the Bayoo Calumet To the Coal mine on the right & Gypsum on the opposite shore .... To the i8! Settlement To Fort Miro 10 Leagues 22 1 5 1 4 3 \% vA3 12 22 Leagues 9 1 . The accounts of the low state of the river we receive here are rather discouraging, as it ap pears, that on the first rapids, seven leagues dis tant there are only 22 inches of water, and we now draw at the stern 30 inches or more. — Went on and encamped within the mouth of the river Washita. This river derives its appel lation from the name of an indian tribe for merly [ 19] merly resident on its banks, but now no more [1804 to be found; it is said that the remnant of the t°ctober nation went into the great planes to the west ward & either compose a small tribe themselves, or are incorporated into another nation. The Junction of the Washita with the Tenza and the Catahoola a little below, all together form the black river, which last here, loses its name, altho' our maps represent it as taking place of the Washita : the Tenza and Catahoola are also names of ancient tribes now extinct : the latter is now the name of a Creek or bayoo 1 2 leagues long, which is the issue of a lake of the same name 8 leagues in length & 2 leagues generally in breadth, it lies west of this place & com municates with the Red river during the time of the great annual inundation ; it receives at the West or N.W. angle a Creek called little river, which preserves a channel with running water at all seasons, meandering along the bed of the lake ; but all other parts of its superficies during the dry season from July to november & often latter, are completely drained & become clothed in the most luxuriant herbage : the bed of the Lake then becomes the residence of immense herds of Deer, of Turkeys, Geese, Ducks, Cranes &c &c feeding upon the grass and grain ; the Duck species being generally found on or near the little river. The Bayoo Tenza serves only to drain off a part of the waters of the inundation [ 20] 1804 "1 inundation from the Missisippi low lands which October j j^^ cornniunicate with the black river during the season of high waters. By reference to our Latitude at Noon we find the mouth of the Washita to be in Lat : 3 1 ° 37' 57" — Extremes ofthe thermometer 68°-73°. Sounded — found 6 fathoms — muddy bottom. Made this day 9 miles 77% perches. Wednesday 24'? Thermometer before sun-rise 540 — Wind North — Cloudy — Temperature of the river water 71? No current to impede our progress worth estimating. Made slow advancement as usual with our oars; found the shore favorable for tracking or towing, which mode we con tinued nearly all day making at the rate of five perches pT. *4 minute, which is about half a perch more than by rowing : a boat properly constructed for an expedition of this nature ought to advance with more than double our velocity. The wind was contrary all day other wise we might have gone at the rate of 6 perches which is equal to 2%. miles per hour, more might be performed, but our Soldiers seem at certain times to be without vigour & now and then throw out hints that they can work only as they are paid. The high lands on both sides have now the appearance of being above the inundation ; the timber is such as is generally produced upon high [ 21 ] high lands chiefly Oaks, red, white & black; f 1804 interspersed with a variety of others; the mag- i October nolio grandiflora is absent; its presence is an infallible sign of lands not subject to inundation. We observed to day along the banks the strata of solid clay or marl (not recent but apparently ancient) to lie in very oblique positions, some making an angle of nearly 300 with the horizon & generally inclined with the descent of the river, altho' in a few cases the position was con trary; timber was also seen projecting from under the solid bank, which last seems to be in some measure indurated; it is unquestionably very ancient presenting a very different appear ance from the recently formed soil : the river is here about 80 yards wide. The Bayoo Ha-ha comes in unexpectedly from the right about a league above the mouth of the Washita, and is one of the many passages or issues thro' which the waters of the great inundation penetrate & pervade all the low countries, annihilating for a time the currents of the lesser rivers in the neighbourhood of the missisippi. Vegetation is extremely vigourous along the alluvial banks ; the twining vines entangle the branches of the trees & expand themselves along the margin of the river, in the richest and most luxuriant fes toons, and often present for a great extent a species of impenetrable Curtain varigated and spangled with all possible gradations of Color from [22] 1 804 1 from the splendid orange to the enlivening green October J down to the purple & blue and interwoven with bright red and russet brown. A carpet of the finest shrubbery overspreads the elevated margin, composed of a variety of elegant vegetables, to many of which probably no names have yet been assigned by the Botanist ; and in positions where the shade is not too deep, the surface is enameled with thousands of humbler plants in full blossom at this late season. The day has continued cloudy but begins to clear away about 1 ih a.m. we therefore landed before noon to observe & found our Latitude to be 310 42' 30". 5 — The timber of the higher grounds is still remarked to be inferior in size and height to that on the Missisippi ; but here it may be accounted for by a less fertile soil, not apparently (at most rarely) subject to inundation. The wind still continues in the N. or N.N.W. but the clouds are disipating and tomorrow we expect fair weather, for making observations. Extremes of the thermometer 54°-68°. En camped after completing a poor days voyage of 14 miles 48 perches. Therm? at 8h p.m. 54- — Thursday 25* Therm? in air 490 — in river water 68? Wind north. Cloudy. Continued & passed Villemont's prairie on the right & pine point opposite : the prairie obtained its name in consequence of its being [23 ] being included within a grant under the french [1804 Government to a gentleman of that name ; some i°ctober of the family & name yet remain at New Orleans but I have not heard of any claim for this land ; many other parts ofthe Washita are named after their early proprietors : the french people pro jected & began extensive settlements upon this river, but the general massacre planned & in part executed by the Indians against the french, and the consequent massacre of the Natchez tribe by the french, broke up all those under takings & they were not re-commenced under the french government. Those prairies are planes or savannahs without timber, generally very fer tile, producing an exuberance of strong thick and coarse herbage. When a piece of ground is once got into this state in an indian country, it can have no opportunity of re-producing timber ; it being an invariable rule to fire the dry grass in the Fall or winter, to obtain the advantage of attracting game when the young tender grass begins to spring ; & thus the young timber is destroyed, & annually the prairie gains upon the wood land ; it is probable that the immense planes known to exist in America may owe their origin to this practize. The planes of the Wa shita lie chiefly on the East side, & being gener ally formed like the Missisippi lands sloping from the bank of the river towards the great river, they are more or less liable to the influence of inundation [24] 1804 \ inundation in the rear, which has been known October j to a(jvance so far m certain great floods, as to be ready to pour over the margin into the Washita river ; this however has now become a very rare case & it may generally be estimated that from yA mile to a whole mile in depth will remain exempt from inundation during high floods : and this is pretty much the Case with those lands nearly as high as the Post of the Washita, with the exception of certain ridges of primi tive high land ; the rest being evidently alluvial, altho' not now subject to be inundated by the Washita river, (which has originally caused their formation), in consequence of the great depth, which the bed of the river has acquired by abrasion. We saw a good deal of high land to day on either bank producing pine and other timber not the growth of inundated lands. About a league beyond Pine point we arrived at Bayoo Louis on the right, being the commencement of the rapids or rather shallows : Sent people into the water to search the best channel, and after being frequently aground ahd dragging the boat we got up into a situation about a mile higher, where we were in a manner embayed, being shut in by a gravel-bar upon which there was scarsely in the deepest part a foot of water : finding the men fatigued by being so much in the water at hard labor, we thought it best to rest [ 25 ] rest for the remainder of the day and consult [1804 upon what was best to be done. — The bar be- l°ctober ing of inconsiderable breadth & no rock in the bottom as we had been taught to expect, it was thought best to cut a channel sufficient for the passage of the boat, which we supposed would take less time than unloading, transport ing & reloading at a considerable distance from our present station. — The weather continued damp and disagreeably cold. all day : we had no observation at noon. Extremes of the Therm' 49?— 60? Wind at North. Clearing up — many stars to be seen in the evening : made 3 miles 120 perches. Thermom' in air 40? in river water 650 — Friday 26'!1 Wind N.W. light clouds. The morning being very cool, it was thought best for the people to take an early breakfast before going into the water to work. After breakfast commenced dig ging the cannal which was required to be about an hundred feet long : this business went on hea vily & slowly as usual, and it was not untill noon that it was made barely of the depth which it was supposed might pass the boat. The day being fine made some observations for the regulation of the watch & for the mag netic variation, and at noon had a fine observa tion, from which the Latitude of this remarkable place was ascertained to be 3 1° 48'. 57". 5 — a little [26] 1804 1 little way up the river %. of a mile there is a October J high ridge of primitive earth studded with an abundance of fragments of rock or stone, which appears to have been thrown up to the surface in a very irregular manner, the stone is of a fri able nature, & some of it has the appearance of indurated clay; without it is blackish from being exposed to the air, and within of a grey ish white : it is said that within the hill, the strata are regular, & that good grind-stones may be obtained. After dinner the boat was moved into the channel, where she stuck fast. Cables, ropes and pulies were got across and fixed to trees : handspokes were used to raise & push her along and we made some way thro' the bar, but evening coming on we were obliged to de sist in hopes of being able to get over in the morning. Extremes of the thermom? 400— 700. Wind N.W. Clear star light. Discovered a barge coming up behind us ; she also grounded & sent her people out to search for the channel. Saturday 27* Thermometer in air 32? in river water 64? Wind N. Clear above. A fog upon the river, occasioned by the condensation of vapor arising from the surface of the river : the morning be ing very cold with a hoar-frost, the people were directed to get their breakfasts and prepare to use their exertions in getting the boat over the shoal ; the day proved very fine with an agree able [27 ] able warm sunshine, but it was ih p.m. before f 1804 we got entirely over into floating water on the \0ctober opposite shore, the men having upon this occa sion exerted themselves to my entire satisfaction. The occupation of this day prevented us from making any astronomical observations. — After dinner we pushed on and arrived at the last of the rapids at this place ; here we found a ledge of rocks across the entire bed of the river, but having previously sounded and discovered the best channel, we got over into deep water after grounding and rubbing two or three times : The river became again like a mill-pond without current, excepting a motion barely perceptible along the concave shore, the velocity was never theless very considerable upon the shoals where the depth of water was small. The whole of those first shoals or rapids embraced an extent of 1 Yi miles ; that is, the obstruction was not continual, but felt at short intervals along this space : Encamped about 1 % mile above the last rapid. Extremes of the therm? 320— 73? The evening proves fine & mild. Therm? at 8h p.m. 62? Wind North. High pine land on the right — breadth pf the river 1 00 yards. Thermometer in air 400 — in river water 63? Sunday 28^ — Wind N.W. Clear — fog on the river. Con tinued our voyage & made some observations for the Longitude & magnetic variation at the hour of [28] 1804 1 of breakfast. High lands and a large Savannah October J seen on tjje rfght in the morning passed a rocky hill soon after and ' Bayou aux baeufs ' on the right about 4 leagues from the rapids. At noon got a good observation, Latitude deduced 3 1 ° 5 3' 35". 5 — at 3?1 p.m. the thermom? was at 780 in the shade ; the day was warm and the sun power ful : observed some more planes to the left : the river made several returning courses to day, to the southward of west. Thermom? at 8h p.m. 56? — Extremes 400— 73? Sounded — 3 fathoms — mud & sand. Made this day 1 2 miles 116 perches. Monday 29'? Thermom? in air 410 in river water 62? Wind N.W- Fog on the river. Continued our voyage — The banks of the river seem to retain very little alluvial soil ; on the opposite shores we see frequently to the water's edge the high land earth, which is a sandy loam of a greyish light color with streaks of red sand & clay ; the soil is not rich, bearing great numbers of pines, in terspersed with red oak, hickory and dog-wood. The river is now from 60 to 100 yards wide. At the hour of breakfast made three lunar ob servations, and one sun's altitude to regulate the watch, which with the observations of yester day will give the rate of going of the watch proportioning for change of Latitude and de parture as we advance in the progress of our voyage; I do not however think it of much importance [ 29 ] importance to regard those observations untill J1804 we arrive at the post of Washita, which I sup- \October pose to be nearly the most easterly point of the river ; there and at the hot-springs (the most westerly point we shall visit) we shall take time to make correct observations ; all other points of the river will be ascertained with sufficient precision from our geometrical survey so fre quently corrected by the Latitude. At Noon we found our Latitude to be 31° 58' 2". Having made some advantageous alterations in the ar rangement of our benches and oars, we advanced with a little better speed ; about 6 perches p? y2 minute which however does not exceed 2j^ miles p? hour in water without any sensible op position from the Current. The wind came about to S.W. in the evening; Therm? at 8h p.m. 62? Extremes 41 °-8 50. Soundings — 3 fathoms mud & sand — made this day 14 miles 65 perches. Thermom? in air 47? in river water 60? Wind Tuesday 30* W.N.W. Fog on the river. Clear above. — Con tinued our voyage : the land on either bank seems to be from 30 to 40 feet high and does not im prove in quality : pine-trees seen in most situa tions — nothing remarkable occurred except a rapid we passed in the afternoon, formed by a ledge of rocks which traversed the river, nar rowing the water channel to about 30 yards, but the extent between the high banks was notless [3°] 1804 "1 less than a hundred. At noon found the Latitude October/ to be 3Qo j ^ It would appear from the dig_ tances run by our Log and time, when compared with the estimated distances by the french in habitants and hunters, that their league scarcely exceeds two miles. Encamped near a sand beach favorable for hauling the sene & catched a suf ficiency of fish to serve all the people for supper and breakfast. Therm? at 8h p.m. 60? Extremes 47°-83? Made this day 15 miles, 150 perches. Wednesday 31!' Thermom? in air 44? in river water 62? Wind N.N. W. Clear — fog on the river — Continued our voyage. This morning met with shallow wa ter & strong currents, our rate of going, deduct ing the velocity of the stream was reduced to 2 perches : got upon shoals about Sh a.m. which detained us greatly, and impeded us more or less untill the afternoon ; at noon we had a good ob servation ; Lat : found 3 20 10' 13" — at 2h p.m. got over the last shoal for this day & went on in good water untill the evening, the channel was very narrow, the sand bars at every point extending so far into the bend as to leave little more than the breadth of the boat of water suf ficiently deep for her passage, altho' the water often covered a breadth of 70 to 80 yards upon the shoal : in the afternoon passed a little plan tation or settlement on the right and at night came up with three others joining each other : here [ 3i ] here is a plane or prairie upon which those set- fi8o4 tlements are placed ; from the regular slope of l0ctober the land from the river bank towards the east ward, we may be assured the soil is alluvial, yet the bed of the river is now so deep that it is no longer subject to that inconvenience, but in the rear the Missisippi advances & sometimes leaves dry but a narrow stripe along the banks, it is however now more common that the extent of the fields cultivated (from % to j4 mile) remain dry during the season of the inunda tion : the soil here is very good but not equal to missisippi bottoms; it may be esteemed second rate. At a small distance to the East are extensive Cypress swamps, over which the waters of the inundation always stand to the depth of 15, 20 & 25 feet. On the west side after passing over the Valley of the river, whose breadth is various from % to 2 miles or more, the Land assumes a considerable elevation from 100 to 300 feet and extends all along to the settlements on the Red river ; those high lands from report are poor & badly watered, being chiefly what is termed a pine-barren : there is here a ferry & a road of Communication between the Post of the Washita and the Natchez & a fork of this road passes on to the Settlement called the rapids on Red river, it is distant from this place by com putation 150 miles. From the experience we have had of this river [ 32 ] 1804 1 river and the information obtained, it appears October J tjlat tjie present; js fne ieast faVorable season for ascending this river with a boat of so consider able a draught of water as ours ; the spring of the year is the most advantageous, the Missisippi then flows up into the beds of the inferior rivers, raising their waters sometimes within a few feet of the top of the banks ; the small current is then often in favor of the ascending boat : this objection would vanish if light boats were used drawing only 6 or 8 inches of water & if well constructed might make with ease 12 leagues or even 40 miles p? day ; such ought to be the kind of boats for an expedition fitted out to explore ; as little time as possible ought to be lost in moving, that more may be left for obser vation and research : in our actual situation our dayly progress seldom equals 14 or 15 miles, which is a sad drawback upon the accomplish ment of the objects of an exploring expedition. On this part ofthe river lies a considerable grant of Land conceded by the Spanish Government to the Marquis of Maison rouge a french emi grant, who bequeathed it with all his property to M. Bouligny son of the late Colonel of the Louisiana regiment & by him sold to Daniel Clark ; it is said to extend from the post of the Washita with a breadth of two leagues includ ing the river down to the bayou Calumet, the computed distance of which along the river is called [ 33 ] called 30 leagues, but said to be not more than J" 1804 12 in a direct line. Extremes of the thermom? L0ctober 44°-84? Made this day 6 miles 165 perches. Thermom? in air 48? in river water 620 — ("November Calm— clear above, a little fog on the river. tThursda>r I tnjs SUperstratum is greyish and very sandy with a small admixture of loam, which indicates the poverty of the mountains and. uplands where the sources of the river take their rise. At noon we found our Latitude to be 33° 17' 13" — In the afternoon passed on the right, the entrance of a bay, which within must form a great lake during the inundation. We now see a consider able number ofthe long-leaf pine tree; the canes along the bank have a better appearance being much larger in size, this indicates a better or more elevated soil : Canes subject to be inun dated,!, e. the land to be inundated 3,4 or 5 feet, are always small and tough ; they grow much finer where there is little or no inundation, pro vided the soil be rich & loose. Passed a high hill (300 feet) on the left clothed with lofty pine trees. Thermom? at Sh p.m. $7° cloudy weather threatens rain. Made this day 1 8 miles 75 perches. Having been much indisposed for some days past, the number of remarks are prob ably fewer than might have been made — I still remain in the same situation. Monday 19'? Therm? in air 540 — in river water 540 — Cloudy — Calm — river at a stand. Set out at 6h 56' and continued our voyage. The banks pre sent still more the appearance of the high land soil, the under stratum being a pale yellowish clay [57] clay and the alluvial soil of a dirty white sur- J 1804 mounted by a thin covering of a brownish veg- [November etable earth : the trees begin to have a better appearance, growing to a considerable size and height, tho' much inferior to those ofthe allu vial banks of the Missisippi : passed the ' bayou de hachis ' on the left this morning ; points of high land not subject to be overflowed frequently touch the river, the valley is said to be league or more in breadth on each side of the river : passed some pine hills on the left called ' Cote de Cham- pignole', the river has been narrow during the course of this day's voyage, not exceeding on the average from' 50 to 60 yards. Thermometer at Sh p.m. 62° Extremes 54°-67? Made this day 18 miles 120 perches. Therm? in air 59? in river water 540 — Cloudy Tuesday 20th — Calm. No change in the river. Set off at 6h 48' — The banks ofthe river appear to be higher and the river wider, we meet with a number of sand beaches and some rapids but good deep water between them. At 7%^ a.m. passed a creek which forms a deep ravine in the high lands and has been called « Chemin Couvert ' — a little past Sh we ascended a rapid where the water was confined to a breadth of 40 yards, a little farther we had to quit the great channel on account of its shallowness and rapidity, & passed along a narrow channel 60 feet wide : without a guide [58 ] 1 804 "I guide a Stranger would have taken this passage November; fora Creek. Between 1 1 and 1 2h saw analigator, which surprised us much at this late season & so far north. The Banks (exclusive ofthe large timber) are covered by cane or thick under brush, frequently so interwoven with thorns and briars, as to be impenetrable, untill the way is cut with an edge tool : we see also some species of timber not common below, such as Birch, Maple, holly & two kinds of timber to which no other name has yet been given but ' Bois du bord de l'eau' (water side wood). Pirsimmons and small black grapes are plenty in some situations ; the first are often very large and excellent, the last a mixture of sweet and tart ; those are also common on the Missisippi. The weather being cloudy we did not land to observe. In the after noon observed some feruginous earth on the right : the margin is frequently fringed with a variety of plants & vines, of the latter several species of the convolvulus, which no doubt in their season ornament this river with their ele gant flowers. Thermom? at 8h p.m. 54° Ex tremes 54°-62? Made this day 18 miles 308 perches. Wednesday 2i8.' Therm! in air 43? in river water 540 — a lit tle fog — calm. Set out & passed a hill and cliff 1 00 feet perpendicular crowned with lofty pines called « Cote de Finn ' (Finn's hill) a chain of high [59] high land continues some distance on the left ; ("1804 the cliff presents the appearance of an ash col- [November ored clay ; passed a strong rapid, and a little far ther a Creek on the right called Bayou d'Acassia (Locust Creek) : The river varies here from 80 to 1 00 yards wide ; we frequently see indica tions of iron along the banks and some thin strata of ore from y. inch to 3 inches thick, but no other metalic appearance, nor indeed any thing uncommon in the fossil kingdom ; a little cloudy this morning, but cleared up before noon & got ashore hastily at a steep inconvenient place among trees and brush, and had a tollera- bly good observation notwithstanding : Latitude found 330 29' 29". The day proves mild, warm and agreeable, which acted as a restorative to myself and others who had been indisposed for some days past: Therm? at 3^ p.m. 72? Altho' Ducks, Geese and Turkeys are often seen, yet we cannot say they are in that abundance which from report we expected, and they are so shy, that we seldom can get a shot from our large boat ; but by sending the canoe a head some game is procured ; it is probable that higher up, we shall be more successful. Therm? at Sh p.m. 580 — Extremes 430— 72? Made this day 1 8 miles 36 perches. Therm? in air 40? in river water 530 — Light Thursday 22* clouds — calm. — No change this morning in the [6o] 1804 [ the general appearance ofthe country, the tim- Novemberj Der sucn as has been mentioned, with an in creasing proportion of holly, birch, maple and beautiful pine-trees; at io^h a.m. came to the road of the Cadadoquis Indian Nation leading to the Arcansa Nation ; a little beyond this is the Ecor a Fabri (Fabri's Cliffs) 80 to 100 feet high : it is reported that a line of demarkation run between the french and Spanish provinces, when the former possessed Louisiana, crossed the river at this place ; and it is said that Fabri a french-man & perhaps the supposed Engineer deposited lead near the cliff in the direction of the line : we could not however obtain any au thenticated account of this matter, and it is not generally believed : a little farther is a smaller cliff" called ' le petite cor a Fabri ' (the little cliff of Fabri) ; those cliffs appear to be composed chiefly of ash-colored sand with a stratum of clay at the base, such as reigns all along under the banks of this river. The day being hazy and cloudy we made no observation for the Latitude at noon. In the afternoon we encountered a great many difficult rapids, the current of the river being frequently confined to a very small space, where the depth of water is but barely sufficient for the passage of the boat ; the addi tional rapidity of the current indicates that we are ascending into a higher country. The water of the river now becomes extremely clear and is [61 ] is equal to any in its very agreeable taste as a [1804 drinking water. The general breadth of the [November river to day has been about 80 yards, altho' in certain places not above one half of this quan tity. We now find immense beaches of gravel and sand, over which the river passes, in the sea son of its floods with the rapidity of a torrent, carrying with it vast quantities of drift wood which are in many places piled up in prodigious masses, lying 20 feet above the present level of the water, and points out to us already the danger. of ascending or descending this river in certain degrees of its floods : accidents nevertheless are rare with the canoes of the Country ; ours is the first barge of so large a size that ever ascended this river: passed a very intricate rapid in the evening, which we could not get up untill we had carried a rope ashore. Encamped upon an elevated gravel beach : Therm? at 8h p.m. 54° Extremes 400— 68° Made this day 14 miles 317 perches.* This day an unlucky accident happened, which was very nigh being extremely serious. Doctor Hunter was employed in the cabin of the boat loading one of his pistols ; he held it between his legs upon a bench with his head almost * It must be expected that imperfections in our reckoning must arise from the retardments and difficulties met with on the rapids and shoals ; compensations for lost time and rate of going are made at the moment when the best judgement can be formed. over [62] 1804 [ over the muzzel : while in the act of ramming November J dOWn the ball, the pommel slipt from the bench & the cock of the lock came with force against it, which giving way discharged the pistol, the rammer and ball passed thro' the fingers & thumb of the right hand & also thro' the brim of the hat within little more than an inch of the Doc tor's forehead ; his thumb & fingers were much torn, but no bone was broken, the concussion of the head was most severely felt: the bottom of a new powder horn (not well secured) which lay upon the table was forced outwards & the pow der partly spilt upon the table, which providen tially did not take fire altho' the wadding was found smoking upon the table : the circum stance of the bottom of the powder-horn being forced outwards, points out a curious effect of the elastic power of the air, viz after sustaining a considerable compression the returning vibra tion causes a partial rarefaction, & at the same instant the common air confined within bodies involved by the sphere of rarefaction, exerting its spring to restore the equilibrium, forces out wards all obstacles not sufficiently secured to resist its action. The Doctor's wounds were dressed ; he suffered great pain and debility, but after some repose felt better in the evening. Friday 23? Therm? in air 48? in river water 540 — light clouds — calm. River upon the fall. Set off and continued [63] continued our navigation thro' difficult passages; [1804 the river is broken into a number of small streams [November by Islands, short turning rapids, sunken logs, shoals, bars, and every impediment to be expected in our situation, and this continued at short in tervals during the whole of the day, so that our courses and distances cannot be expected to be perfect ; every allowance which could be judged necessary at the moment was made : I fortunately obtained a good observation of the Sun's mer: altitude in the interval of some shifting clouds : Latitude deduced 330 41' 35". The banks of the river as we ascend are less elevated, being now only from 9 to 12 feet, and probably the freshes surmount them some feet; we passed a great number of high & low gravel and sand- beaches ; on those were to be seen fragments of stone of all forms & of a great variety of col ors ; some highly polished and rounded by fric tion, and may have belonged to the mountains, rivers and oceans of a World, from the ruins of which the Globe we inhabit may have been formed. The banks of the river in this upper Country suffer greatly from abrasion, one side and sometimes both being broken down by every flood. We saw nothing to day worth noticing, no change being observable in the appearance of the lands and timber along the hills and banks of the river : we found on a gravel beach some fragments of the same kind of matter we found lower [64] 1 8 04 1 lower down resembling pit-coal; it burns with- Novemberj out Diaze to a white ash, but will not consume (in common temperature) without other fuel : under the burning glass, it emits smoke & con sumes, yielding a faint smell of sealing wax ; it is light and friable, & affords very little evidence of being penetrated by bituminous matter. Therm? at 8h p.m. 540 Extremes 48°-72° Made 1 3 miles 28 perches. Saturday 24?h Therm? in air 48? in river water 540 — light clouds — calm — river at a stand. Set off & con tinued our voyage thro' a country in all respects similar to that thro' which we passed yesterday, excepting that our obstacles from strong rapids are considerably augmented : at a place on the left called 'Auges d'Arclon' (Arclon's troughs) we observed some laminated iron ore, and a stra tum of tenacious black sand shining with minute chrystals. The general breadth of the river is now 80 yards, tho' in many places greatly en larged by Islands & shallows, and at other places contracted to 80 or 100 feet. The river is now in many places rocky of a greyish color & rather friable. Observed some willow very different from what is found below and on the banks of the Missisippi, the last is very brittle, this on the contrary is extremely pliant & resembles the osier, of which it is probably a species, I propose on our return to take some plants along with us ; its [ 65 ] its foliage is now of a golden yellow & falling: ;i8o4 we also found some ofthe larger Whortle-berry [November in fruit, the berry is of a Sub-acid agreeable taste, the leaves not yet fallen of a beautiful crimson. The weather being cloudy we had no obser vation at noon & went on to dine at the forks ofthe Washita and Missouri the lesser ; the latter comes in from the left hand and is a consider able branch, perhaps about % of the Washita : Hunters often ascend the little missouri, but they are not inclined to penetrate far up, because this branch reaches near to the great planes or prai ries upon the red river, which are often visited by the lesser Osage Tribe settled on the river Arcansa : These last frequently carry war into the Cadadoquis tribe who are settled on the red river about W.S.W. from this place, and indeed they are reported not to spare any nation or people. They do not come upon the head waters of the Washita, because they are surrounded by a num ber of mountains or steep hills rising behind each other, and so extremely difficult to travel over, that those savages perceiving no desireable object, do not attempt to penetrate to the river, & it is supposed to be unknown to the nation : The Ca dadoquis (or Cadaux as the french who are fond of abbreviations generally pronounce the word) may be considered as Spanish Indians ; They boast, I am told with truth, that they never have imbrued their hands in the blood of a white Man: [66 ] 1804 [ Man : it is reported (perhaps falsely) that they November/ are eXcited to enmity by the Spanish officers at Nacocdoches against the Americans. We are told there is a mine up the little Mis souri, it is said that the stream runs over a bright splendid bed of mineral of a yellowish and whit ish color, it is most probably martial pyrites: some 30 years ago, several of the inhabitants hunters worked upon this mine and sent a quan tity of the ore to the Government at New Or leans, but they were prohibited from working any more. Therm* at 3?* p.m. 59° Extremes 480— 72? Made this day by a very uncertain reckoning 1 1 miles 152 Perches. Sunday 25*.h This morning proved very rainy, having com menced raining before day, we were therefore constrained to continue encamped : a cessation took place after breakfast, which gave us some hopes of being able to proceed, but this was not of long duration; the rain recommenced and we remained all day in our tents. We have the con solation however to expect that the river will rise a little in consequence of the rain, which will facilitate our ascent over the shoals that are to be expected above. Therm? at Sh p.m. 62? Ex tremes 540 - 70? Monday 26l.h Therm* 500 — river water $7" — clear above. Calm — river risen 3^ inches in the night. Con trary [67 J trary to expectation the morning proved not [1804 only fine and serene, but of a mild, agreeable [November temperature. In general after the winter season sets in, the changes in the weather are made by extremes. A day or two of rain is commonly suc ceeded by a cold and blowing north wester, and the day following a frost of some severity, which has not been the course upon this last occasion, it appears also that the rain has raised the tem perature of the river 3? The water is now re markably clear and fine, and it does not seem to have been discoloured by the last rain. There is still a great sameness in the appearance of the river banks, the Islands are skirted with osier, and immediately within on the bank grows a range of birch trees & some willows ; the more elevated banks ofthe River are clothed by a thick growth of Cane & the timber which rises above the Cane is such as has been already mentioned Viz. oak, white, black, and red ; many species of each: black Maple, white maple, Sycamore, Elm several species, Ash, hicory many species. Dog wood, Holly, Iron wood &c — Saw a number of yellow butterflies fluttering about the banks of the River. We continue to encounter the same obstacles from the shoals & rapids ; the valley of the river, in its present low state is filled with Islands, which dividing the current reduces the depth of the Channel ; We find no great difficulty where the water is col lected [68] 1804 [ lected into a single channel. Our Pilot informs November; us that there is a body of excellent land upon the little Missouri & more especially on the Creek called the * Bayou a terre noire,' which falls into the little Missouri ; this land reaches within a few miles of the Washita, and is said to extend to the Red River being connected with the great prairies above the Cadaux nation & in the prox imity ofthe red River: this rich tract of Coun try is said to be of very considerable extent per haps a square of 30 miles & is connected with the great prairies which are the hunting grounds ofthe Cadaux Nation, consisting of about 200 warriors, they are warlike, but frequently unable to defend themselves against the tribe of Osages who are settled upon the Arcansa river, who pass ing round the mountains which give birth to the Washita, along the prairies which enclose those mountains on the West and seperate them from the main Chain of mountains which furnish the waters of the red & arcansa river, pass down in the Cadaux Country & rob & plunder them of their horses and other effects, & not unfrequently take a few scalps ; for it seems that this detached tribe of the Osages is a lawless gang of robbers, making war with the whole world. Therm* at 8h p.m. 620 — Extremes 5o°-68? Made 12 miles 21 Perches. Tuesday 27th Therm* 540 — river water 5 8° — Cloudy — River [69] River risen above the mark which was 1 2 inches ;i8o4 out of water: set off at 7h 1'. and continued our [November Voyage with the same obstacles from rapids, which were very violent at particular points from the encreased body of water descending from the higher position ; but we obtained at the same time the advantage of approaching the willows & even passing thro' them, to avoid the most difficult passes. During the hour of breakfast the river rose iy inches perpendicular. The gen eral height of the main banks is now from 6 to 1 2 feet above the level ofthe water, and the land is rather of a better quality, the Canes &c shew ing a more luxuriant vegetation: the superficial soil subject to inundation is of brownish appear ance greatly mixed with Sand ; At noon arrived at 'cache a Macon' (Masons hiding place) on the right, stopped here for dinner. Having been informed of some pit coal reported to be in the neighbourhood, we determined to explore its position. Doctor Hunter with the Pilot set out for this purpose, & at about 1 y mile N.W. of the Boat found in the bed of a Creek a substance similar to what we had formerly seen under the name of coal; some pieces of it were very black, solid, & of a homogenous appearance greatly resembling pit Coal, but it was deficient in pon derosity, & did not seem to be penetrated by bituminous matter in a sufficient degree to con stitute Coal ; We may perhaps therefore be per mitted [7° ] 1804 [ mitted to consider it as vegitable matter in a NovemberJ certain stage of its progress of transmutation into Coal, we were the more confirmed in this opinion by discovering other fragments, which still re tained very evidently the fibrous texture of wood, one peice in particular seemed to have been, a large chip taken out by the felling ax. Those last pieces were not so far advanced in the trans muting progress as the first mentioned ; although black it was not so perfect, being rather a very dark brown black, retaining the exact form & shape of the wood as it had been separated from the log : as this incipient or imperfect Coal was found imbedded among clay & gravel, which appeared to have been washed down by the tor rent, no clue could be found to lead to a discov ery of the process by which nature effects so extraordinary a change, an ingenious enquirer placed in favorable circumstances, will probably have the good fortune to make this discovery : The time may arrive when the Planter who shall be clearing his Plantation or farm of use less timber, will be enabled from the instructions of the Chemist to place the whole in a situation to be transmuted into an usefull article capable of long preservation. This is no doubt the Car bonated wood described by Kirwan & other Chemists. We found along the banks a species of the white thorn loaded with abundance of ripe fruit, being a small oval berry of a cornelian colour [7i ] colour & agreeable sweetish taste; the whortle [1804 berry was also found in the same situation. The [ white maple has now a beautiful appearance, its leaves before their fall first assume a pale yel low, but this soon fades, and they change into a splendid white and present at some distance the appearance of clusters of elegant flowers. Being cloudy at noon we made no observation for the. Latitude. We suppose the river to have risen at least 30 inches and it now flows with great rapidity, which obliges us to pass sometimes among the willows to avoid its impetuosity : this afternoon we passed some reaches ofthe river, which were very handsome, being of considerable length, and at least 150 yards wide, and flowing with a full current from bank to bank. We found a con siderable number of unknown (to us) plants some of them very handsome, but our very limited knowledge in practical botany, did not enable us to discover what they were, particularly as they were not in flower. Made this day 1 3 miles 39 perches. Therm? at Sh p.m. 66° Extremes 54°-7i° Therm? 68° — river water 60? fallen 4 inches Wednesday 28th in the night — Cloudy — calm. Set off at 7h 5' and continued our voyage, meeting the same species of obstacles as yesterday — the river ap pears to increase in width being sometimes 1 70 yards [ 72 ] 1804 1 yards broad, flowing at this time with a full tide November j from shore to shore. The Current is in some places extremely rapid, that is where the depth of the Channel is diminished and the bed contracted, in such situations we are under the necessity of catching hold of the willows &c, & hauling up along shore, oars and poles being insufficient to stem the violence of the torrent ; in other situ ations for miles together the current is incon siderable, in fact it is nothing under the shelter of the points, this advantage is the result of the enlargement and encreased depth of the river. Being cloudy we had no observation for the Lat itude. Some of our people who walked out with their guns at the hour of dinner discovered some buffalo tracts we are therfore in hopes soon of getting some fresh beef. We past some beautifull Pine Forests. The Lands in many places appeared of a pretty good quality producing trees and a variety of vegetable subjects indicating a good soil. Encamped in the evening after making by our reckoning 12 miles 255 perches. Here we found an old dutch Hunter with his party con sisting in all of 5 persons. This man has resided 40 years on the Washita and before that period has been up the arcansa river, the white river and the river S? Francis ; the two last he informed us are small rivers of difficult navigation similar to that we are now upon, but the Arcansa river is a river of great magnitude, a large and broad channel, [73 ] channel, and when the river is low with long j 1804 and great sand beaches like to the missisippi. So [November far as he has been up, the navigation is safe and commodious, without any impediment from rap ids or shoals, upon all those rivers, the soil is of the first rate quality, the countries are of easy access, being lofty open forests, unembarrassed by canes & other under growth : the lands on the Arcansa are generally level and not subject to in undation, with here and there gently rising hills. The river is not embarrassed with rocks so far as this informant has ascended, but its bed is com posed of mud and sand : the water of the river is extremely bad to drink, being of a disagreeable red colour and very brackish when low, a mul titude of creeks which flow into the river fur nish sweet water, which the voyager is obliged to carry in vessels on board to supply his imme diate wants, hence this inconvenience is not of much moment. This man confirms the frequent reports given of silver being abundant up this river ; he has not been so high as to see it him self, but says he has received a silver pin from a hunter who assured him that he himself col lected the virgin silver from the rock, out of which he made the Epinglete by hammering it out ; The tribe of Ozages live higher up than this position, but the hunters rarely go so high, being affraid of those savages who are at war with the world and destroy all strangers they can meet [74] 1804 1 meet with. It is reported that the arcansa nation November} with a part Gf the Chactaws, Chicasaws, Shaw- nese &c. have formed a league and are actually gone or going 800 strong against those depre dators, with a view to destroy or drive them en tirely ofFand possess themselves of their fine prai ries which are most abundant hunting grounds, being plentifully stocked in Buffalo, Elk, Deer, Bear and every other beast of the chase, common to those Latitudes in America. Our old Dutch Hunter informs us of a saline or salt spring from which he has frequently supplied himself with salt by evaporation, we shall visit it in the morn ing, being only half a league distant. Made 1 2 miles 255 perches. Therm? at 8. p.m. 730 Ex tremes 68°-78° Thursday 29 Therm? 72? river water 6 2° — Cloudy — wind South, blew strong all night — This morning Doctor Hunter went with a party and the old dutch hunter to visit the saline, which was found in the bottom of the bed of a dry gully near a Creek ; after digging a few feet found the water which proved very brackish to the taste ; the saline lies about iy mile northerly from our encampment, a creek falls into the river a little above our encampment, being the same which communicates with the saline, a quantity of the water was brought into camp whose specific grav ity was carefully ascertained by comparison with the [75 } the river water and found to be as 1.02116 + to i. J1804 Evaporated 10 quarts of the water which pro- [November duced a saline mass weighing when dry 8 ounces. It began to rain about gh a.m. which obliged us to remain in camp untill after dinner, when it cleared up, and we set out at ih 27' p.m., the water of the river has now become whitish and less transparent in consequence of the rain and appears to be rising again altho' it seemed to have stopped since last night : the water was tol- lerably favorable in the afternoon having met with only one rapid of difficulty and consid erable length : since we have had so much diffi culty to encounter from the shoals and violence of the current, the Soldiers have exerted them selves with a considerable degree of vigor and perseverence and seem desireous that we should accomplish the end of our voyage. Therm? at Sh p.m. 5 20 Extremes $2°~7(f. Made this day 8 miles 2 perches. The weather clears up and begins to grow cold, we expect a north-wester in the morning. Therm? in air 3 8° in river water 6o° — river Friday 30'? risen 1 9 inches — clear calm. Set off & con tinued our voyage against a strong current during the greatest part of the day, altho' frequently we found favorable eddies or little or no Current where the bed of the river became enlarged, which sometimes extended to 1 50 and even 170 yards [76 ] 1804 1 yards in breadth. Saw great flocks of Turkeys November/ today, two of which were killed. At io^ha.m. arrived at the large branch on the left called ' Fourche des Cadaux' (Cadadoquis fork) about i oo yards wide at its entrance into the Washita ; immediately beyond which on the same side the land is considerable elevated (ab! 300 feet.) The wind from North and N.W. opposed us most of the day, so that our progress was not very rapid. At noon landed & observed the Sun's altitude in a difficult place, in some measure thro' the branches of trees, the Latitude deduced was 340 11' 37". As we advance to the north we per ceive more of the effects of winter; the trees are now nearly stripped of their foliage, which a week below seemed to be nearly entire, altho' changed in color: Being informed of a saline or salt-lick, we landed before 3?* p.m. and the Doc tor with a party went to view it, therm? at 3h 57? The Doctor returned in the evening with a quan tity of water from the saline, which from taste appeared to be less impregnated than the former, and on trial its specific gravity was found to be when compared with the river water, which at that time was principally rain water, 1. 01 7647. This salt pit was found in a low flat place subject to be overflowed from the river, it was wet and muddy, the earth on the surface yellowish, but on digging into the stratum which yielded the salt water, it was found to be a bluish clay ; prob ably [77] ably the water was fresher in consequence of ;i8o4 the rain of the day before, which had not fallen [November when the first water was collected. Ten quarts of this last water produced by evaporation six ounces of a saline mass, which from taste was principally marine salt, it was however evident that it contained besides marine salt, some soda and a bitter salt, which last no doubt was muri- ated magnesia, but the marine salt greatly pre dominated. Made 7 miles 28 perches. Therm' in air 32? in river water 54? Clear — [Saturday calm — river fallen 18 inches. The morning was [December iB.' cold & damp; we passed a considerable Island on the right about ^ of a mile in length, called ' Isle du bayou des roches ' (rocky creek Island) — we were greatly impeded this day by rapids, it was with much difficulty, some, hazard, & great exertion of the men, that we ascended some of the rapids : we passed several points of high land full of rocks and stones, much harder and more solid than we have yet seen ; the rocks were all silicious, and we began to observe, that their fis sures were penetrated by sparry matter: indica tions of iron were frequent, & even fragments of poor ore, but no rich ores of that or any other mettal have presented themselves to view. Some of the hills appear to be well adapted to the cul tivation of the vine, the soil being a sandy loam with a considerable proportion of gravel & stone and [78] 1 804 1 and a superficial covering of good vegetable black December] earth: the natural productions were sufficiently luxuriant, consisting of several varieties of oak, Pine, Dogwood, Holly &c with a scattering un derwood of Whortleberry, Hawthorn, China- briar and a variety of small vines. It is probable that a skilful Vigneron, who shall undertake the establishment of a Vineyard in a well-chosen po sition in this neighbourhood, will find his labors amply compensated ; the market of New Orleans is at hand, where his wines (if good) may be immediately sold and paid for at a high price. At noon we were detained upon a very bad rapid & shoal, by which we lost the opportunity of making a meridian observation : In the evening also we landed a little earlier than usual at the foot of a long and difficult rapid, which we did not think it prudent to encounter so late, from the danger of getting fast upon it all night : we are now encamped upon the declivity of one of those hills about 150 feet high, commanding a fine prospect both up and down the river, & will at a future day become a rich Vineyard. Therm? at 8h p.m. 3.5? Extremes 3 2° -5 8? Made this day 7 miles 148 perches. Sunday 2? Therm? in air 300 in river water 50? Clear — calm — river fallen 4 inches. Continued our voy age and passed over a series of strong rapids, which opposed us untill the hour of breakfast. The Country [79 ] Country appears now to wear a new aspect ; high f 1804 lands and rocks frequently approach the river; [December the rocks are extremely hard, and altho' the grain resembles that of free-stone, yet the stone is hard enough to be used for the purpose of hand-mill stones, to which object it has been applied; the river beaches also exhibit a great variety of fragments of flint and other stone of the most solid kinds ; the quality of the land seems to improve, the superficial stratum of Vegetable earth being of considerable thickness (from 6 to 1 2 inches) and of a dark brown color mixed with loam and some sand ; at 2^ h p.m. passed a rock on the margin of the river consist ing of blue slate, which we shall probably find time to examine on our way down ; more of the same is to be seen higher up. About a league from the river a little above the slate quarry is a considerable plane called 'prairie de Cham- pignole,' often frequented by Buffalo ; some salt licks are to be found near it, and in many situa tions on both sides of this river at small distances from it, we are informed that Salines or salt-licks exist which may be rendered very productive ; when this river comes to be settled, so necessary an article as marine salt will therefore be in suf ficient abundance for the consumption of a full population. We are greatly impeded today by rapids and were unable to get ourselves landed in a situation favorable enough to make an ob servation [8o] 1804 [ servation for the Latitude before it was too late. December/ -yy^ encamped just below some rapids which we are to encounter in the morning, upon excel lent level and rich land, being almost entirely an Oak forest ; it is not improbable that this land is sometimes subject to inundation, having the ap pearance of alluvial Land which has acquired permanency & stability, it is now at least 20 feet above the level of the river water. Therm? at 8h p.m. 38° Extremes 300— 59! Monday 3? Therm? in air 3 8 ° — in river water 48° — clear — calm — river fallen 8 inches. Continued our voyage with favorable water until breakfast, after which we encountered a great many very bad rapids during the remainder of the day; some were so difficult, that it was impossible to ascend without sending the greatest part of our people ashore with a good rope, & sometimes* they were obliged to walk in the water; the exertions of the Soldiers on some very difficult and trying occasions were equal to every thing which could be expected, and exceeded greatly my expecta tions : at noon we had a good observation about 4 miles below the « Chutes ' (falls) Latitude de duced 340 21' 25". 5 we were now anxious to see the famous Chutes, which it was supposed at the Post, we should never be able to pass with so large a boat. The land on either hand continues to improve in quality ; there appears to be in general [8i ] general a superficial stratum of good earth of a J 1804 dark brown color, upon which vegetation is suf- [December ficiently luxuriant ; hills frequently arose out of the level country, full of rocks & stones, gen erally of an extremely hard flinty kind, often resembling the Turkey oil stone, of this kind was a promontory which came in from the right hand, a little before we arrived at the Chutes : this promontory presented some appearance at a distance, of the ancient ruined fortifications & Castles so frequent in Europe, the effect was greatly heightened by a flock of swans which had taken their stations under the Walls which rose out of the Water; as we approached the Birds floated about magestically upon the glassy surface, and in tremulous melancholy accents seemed to consult each other upon measures of safety, the ensemble produced a truly sublime picture: several masses of the same hard rock insulated by the river conveyed the idea of redoubts and out- works ; we expect to visit this place in our descent. A little after 4h p.m. we arrived at the Chutes. We found these falls to be occasioned by a chain of rocks of the same hard nature with those we had just seen below, here they extended quite across the river, the water making its way over the chain thro' a number of breaches, which by the impetuosity of the torrent had been worn out of the rock : this chain seemed to proceed from a lofty rocky hill [82 ] 1804 1 hill on the left side the appearance of which con- December; Veyed the idea, of its having been cut down by the abrasion of the waters to its present level : the various breaches thro' which the water poured, were so many cascades, thro' one of which it was necessary to pass ; otherwise the Barge must remain below the Chutes : it was quite uncer tain which of the Cataracts ought to be pre ferred ; it was also doubtful whether our barge (9 feet wide) could find sufficient breadth & depth of water clear of pointed rocks to pass over the Chutes. We came up to the rocks & stoped between two of the Cascades, & sent a couple of Men with a small Canoe, who crept along shore & got above the Falls, they made fast a rope to a tree, and letting themselves gradually down by the same rope, came on board in great safety; having now got a number of hands ready to haul in upon the rope, we employed the remainder « with poles to give a proper position to the Barge & to guide her into the best passage ; we accord ingly entered one ofthe Cascades, but after many fruitless attempts we found there was a deffi- ciency of water ; with some pointed rocks which opposed our passage ; we therefore dropped down a little way, and moved laterally by poling to a second Cataract much more considerable than the one we had just attempted : the rolling im petuosity of the water is not easy to describe, above and below the fall there was a rapid descent, but [83 ] but just at the fall there seemed to be a step of ;i8o4 nearly one foot perpendicular ; difficult & dan- [December gerous as this place appeared for a frail bark like ours, we were determined to make the attempt & we lost no time in entering the strait, in which our Barge soon stuck fast at the bows, we then concluded it would be impossible to pass; it seemed that an inch or two were just wanting to our success ; we however continued our efforts by moving from side to side by the stern, while great efforts were making upon the rope; we perceived a small advancement by every new exertion, our hopes revived, the Barge was in this manner forced half way thro' the Cascade, & now she seemed so completely wedged into the narrow passage, that every effort to stir her in any direction proved ineffectual ; the water tho' extremely rapid was not deep & we got four of our boldest men into the water at her bows, as far as possible from the suction of the fall, who by feeling for rocks on which she rested, & rais ing her sides with all their might, enabled us to advance a step or two farther, beyond which it seemed impossible to move : it was now night, the stars were visible, the water was cold, and altho' the weather was not freezing, it was far from being mild, the therm? being at 450; we now repented that we had made the attempt to pass so late in the evening, & wished we had delayed until the morning; at the same time the river [ 84 ] 1804 [ river was falling, & it seemed not proper to defer " er> the attempt, lest we should not get above the Chutes until another swell of the river : in this situation we determined to lighten the Barge, by sending all the men, except four, ashore to haul upon the rope, while the 4 who remained were with hand levers to endeavour to raise up & lighten the bows of the vessel : the first man who went out discovered, that by the violence of our exertions the rope was beginning to give way & that one of the three strands of which the rope was composed, had actually parted ; we were now in a perilous situation, for if the rope had sep arated, no force on board could have prevented our being dashed to pieces upon the rocks : we immediately ordered every man on board to his pole to support the boat ; in the mean time a man was dispatched thro' the water with the end of a rope from on board, which being made fast to the same tree, we were again placed in a state of security; we now sent the other men on shore as had been intended, who gaining a firm footing and exerting themselves with great vigor soon extricated us and drew us safely ashore, greatly rejoicing to find ourselves without accident above the * Chutes ' : we are encamped under the inces sant roar of the cataracts, which resembles no thing so much that I have heretofore witnessed, as the horrid din of a hurricane at New Orleans in the year 1 779 : the course of the chain of rocks [ 85 ] rocks across the river is nearly S.W. and N.E. [1804 —Made this day 7 miles 218 perches— Therm? [December at 8^ p.m. 440 — Extremes 38°-59° Thermom? in air 3 6° in river water 48° — Tuesday 4th clear — calm — river fallen 2 inches. Immedi ately above the Chutes, the water possesses little or no Current, owing no doubt to its depth & breadth & we went on without opposition untill after breakfast ; about 8h a.m. passed a ledge of very hard freestone rocks with moderate cur rent : this reach is spacious being not less than 200 yards wide & is terminated by a high rocky hill (about 350 feet perpendicular) crowned with beautiful pine woods, a fine situation for build ing : at 10^ h passed a bald hill on the left being chiefly uncovered rock, and arrived at the foot of a most tremenduous rapid full of breakers, the passage being studded with pointed rocks of all magnitudes, which raising their rough heads above water, seemed to threaten with destruc tion the unwary voyager who should presume to attempt their passage ; this place appeared to me much more difficult and dangerous than the Chutes, the water descended along a plane of considerable inclination with a most impetuous velocity, the spray & white foam dashing over the rocks, occasioned a very perceptible mist or vapor which spread about at a small elevation, it is probable it might ascend into the atmos phere [86] 1804 1 phere at a higher temperature. We stopped to December/ contemplate this embarrasment & ordered out a rope, which was carried along shore by a cer tain part of the people, the rest using their poles on board ; we made many fruitless essays to pass upwards by several openings near the shore ; at length we attempted the center of the Cataract where the current was the most violent, but the water deeper, & by very great exertions we got over into moderate water, having consumed i y hour in making about y mile; 300 yards of this distance is difficult & perilous, the greatest prudence with unceasing exertion being indis- pensibly necessary to the safety of such a barge as ours. We landed above this rapid & by a good observation found the latitude to be 340 25' 48"; on our right stood a high rocky hill crowned with very handsome Pine- woods; the strata of this rock were inclined 300 to the Ho rizon in the direction of the river descending ; this hill may be from 300 to 350 feet high: we have now frequently the hills touching the river on both sides ; a border or list of green Cane skirts the margin of the river, growing out of the alluvial soil, beyond is generally a high & sometimes barren hill. At 2h p.m. we passed a hill on the left containing a great body of blue slate, in some places hanging over the river ; a little farther came to another rapid or cataract, which appeared if possible more terrible than the [87] the last, the descent of the water was extremely ("1804 precipitate; from the very irregularly undulat- [December ing surface, it was evident that the bottom was composed of innumerable fragments of rock, many of which just shewed their heads out of water ; we halted on the right shore & sent up our rope, but after many fruitless & some dangerous attempts, in which we were always repelled by the rocks, we were obliged to give up the expectation of passing up on that shore ; we therefore had recourse to the expedient of swinging the barge into the middle of the river & by the aid of the rudder and the exertions of poling, we with some difficulty got hold on the opposite shore, notwithstanding that the rope was caught under a rock in the middle of the river. We hauled the rope on board and sent it up the shore, and passed up the most violent part of the rapid : we ascended a second rapid of less importance and encamped, our people be ing almost exhausted with fatigue ; on the right is a creek called 'bayou de la saline'; about a league up the Creek is a salt-lick, which by dig ging yields salt water resembling what we have already seen; there is also blue slate near the same situation. This afternoon our hunters shot twice at a Buffalo & wounded him severely, the blood flowing as he run, but he escaped. Our tents were pitched on a stony and gravelly beach, they were completely paved with stones of a great [88 ] 1804 [ great variety in kind, color and size. Therm? at December ) gh p m ^6° — Extremes 36°-5o° Made only 4 miles 164 perches. Wednesday 5* Therm? in air 230 in water of the river 470 — very serene — calm — river fallen 2 inches. The morning tho' cold was agreeable, the air being very dry : all night we hear'd the roaring of a Cataract, which we were to encounter this morning ; we were presently at the foot of it ; the violence of the rapid was about 100 yards in length, & as I sat in the cabin of the barge with my eye lowered to the level of the still water of the reach above the rapid, I found there was a fall of 4^ feet ; we sent our rope a head as usual ; but made very little progress for some time, the rope being entangled among sharp rocks which endangered its cutting, the consequence of which might have been fatal to all on board the barge, with the entire destruc tion of the boat and every thing contained in it ; the passage was full of breakers and studded all over with pointed rocks, so that it was neces sary to guide with the utmost care, to be able to pass clear of those unfriendly obstacles : the men on shore exerted themselves greatly, but were frequently obliged to rest, & the boat was often at an entire stand, at length the rope escaped from the rock which bent it out of its course, and we began to move up very slowly, frequent [ 89 ] frequent rests were necessary & in about an hour ("1804 and a half we ascended above the rapid which [December was only about 150 yards in length; a small is land here divided the river into two channels, we took the shortest tho' the most rapid, because it was most favorable for the use of the rope : The french hunters have denominated this place ' La Cascade ' on account of the rapidity & great fall of the water within so small a space : below the Cascade, we had rocky hills on both sides, the quality very hard freestone, but that found in the bed of the river which was rolled down by the floods from the upper countries, was very frequently ofthe hardest flint, sometimes resem bling the Turkey stone. Being embarrassed upon the rapids we could not land to observe at noon. We were obliged to use the rope a second time to ascend a very impetuous rapid, altho' much inferior to that of the morning : at ih 45' p.m. passed a creek on the right called ' fourche au Tigre' (Tiger creek) 4 computed leagues from the Chutes ; it would seem that the Early Hunt ers have calculated their leagues by the time re quired to ascend the stream, & not by distance, as it appears from our calculation, that the distances passed over are frequently not above half those by computation : we now carry the rocky hills with us very oftert on both sides ; rich bottoms nevertheless are not infrequent, & the upland is sometimes of moderate eleva tion [9o] 1804 1 tion & tollerably level : we are informed that up December/ the fourche au Tigre, & other Creeks there are many extensive tracts of rich level land. The stones and rocks we now meet with are chiefly penetrated along their fissures by sparry and chrystaline matter. Last night a band of Wolves howled in our neighbourhood a great part of the night. Turkeys become now much more abundant & less difficult of approach than be low, our hunters generally kill some every day. The opposition on the river was to day so great, that we made only 3 miles 128 perches, altho' by the old computation our days voyage was little short of 3 leagues. Therm? at 8^ p.m. 38? Extremes 230— 5 6° Thursday 6'.h Therm' in air 450 in river water 480 — cloudy — light wind at S.W. river fallen 2 inches. We were encamped last night upon excellent land, tollerably level, and of a good dark brown or blackish soil at the surface, about 12 inches deep, lying upon a yellowish loam ; the growth of timber is large and handsome, chiefly a forest of Oak with an admixture of ash, hickory, elm &c, a field of corn has been formerly cultivated here by one of the hunters during the summer recess from hunting. This morning the Weather being cloudy we apprehended rain, but hoped to reach the ' fourche of Calfat' (Caulker's creek) the point which is to terminate our navigation, & [9i ] & encamp before bad weather; we according- ;i8o4 ly proceeded on without material interruption [December until the hour of breakfast, carrying with us high hills on the left and good level lands on the right, subject perhaps to be inundated : at 9h a.m. arrived at the foot of a very long preci pitous rapid, it seemed to be divided into four steps, one of which was at least 1 5 inches per pendicular exclusive of the inclined plane above and below, the whole could not be less than $y feet perpendicular from the beginning to the end, which was about 400 yards, altho' the swift water continued half a mile: the rope was carried along the bank as usual, and many stops were made upon the rocks before coming to the great fall ; at last the barge entered be tween two high rocks, the men exerted them selves vigorously both on shore and aboard ; the barge appeared to be ascending an inclined plane of 1 2 or 15 degrees ; great exertions were neces sary, she however passed without touching any other obstacle but the impetuous torrent and in a few seconds was drawn into moderate water to the infinite joy of the whole party ; upon another part of the rapid higher up, we got upon a rock, which seemed to serve as a pivot, upon which the boat turned as a Center ; after reiterated exertions, we could neither advance nor retreat, we therefore unloaded about one quarter of the cargo which enabled her to pass up [92] 1804 1 up without difficulty: we immediately re-loaded December; having spent three hours in getting over this rapid, and proceeded a quarter of a mile farther to Ellis' Camp a little below the ' fourche au Calfat' (Caulker's creek) : Here terminates our voyage upon the river upwards, for the pre sent. Our pilot considers this the most conven ient landing, from whence to transport by land our necessary baggage to the hot-springs, the distance being about three leagues. There is a creek about 2 leagues higher up, called 'bayou des sources chaudes ' (hot-spring Creek) upon the banks of which the hot springs are situated, about 2 leagues only from its mouth, but the road is very hilly and therefore less eligible than the path from this camp or landing, which is almost a level road. Upon ascending the hill to encamp we found the land extremely level and very good, with some plants in flower & a great many evergreen vines ; the forest is chiefly oak with an admixture of other timber as before mentioned : soon after we arrived it began to rain, we were however tented before it com menced. Therm? at 8h p.m. 56? Extremes 540- 67? Our short voyage this day was only 2 miles 32 perches. Friday 7,.h Therm? before sun-rise 38? in river water 47? Cloudy — Wind N.W. river risen 4 inches. In the morning Doctor Hunter with the Pilot &c went [93 ] went to view a salt-lick about a mile to the J1804 West of our camp but found no salt water ; the [December clay was extremely stiff and difficult to dig : after breakfast dispatched the Pilot with the greatest part of our people with their own bag gage & some provisions to encamp at the hot- springs, hoping to find Cabins there sufficient to hut our party with orders to return early next morning so as to take out a load of more bag gage and instruments. Took the sun's meridian altitude; Latitude deduced 340 27' 31 '.5 — Therm? at 31? p.m. 50° — the weather cleared up about gh p.m. and became very serene and cool with wind at N.W. some venison and tur key were procured by the hunters : altho' we have frequently seen the tracks and other marks of buffalo, we are hitherto disappointed in kill ing any of them. Therm? in air 10? in river water 430 — very Saturday 8* serene — light wind at N.W. river risen 4 inches. We found the weather this morning extremely cold, the therm' having fallen lower, than we expected in this latitude, particularly at the pre sent early period of the winter season ; it is perhaps to be ascribed to the elevation of the country and neighbourhood of mountains : as we have no barometer with us to indicate the pressure of the atmosphere, we shall when we get to the hot springs, ascertain the degree of the [94 ] 1804 1 the thermometer at which water boils, from December; which scientific men may draw their own con clusions respecting the elevation of the land. At 10^ a.m. our people returned from the hot-springs, each giving his own account of the wonderful things he had seen : they were unable to keep the finger a moment in the Water as it issued from the rock, they drank of it after cool ing a little and found it very agreeable ; some of them thinking that it tasted like Spice-wood tea. The people after refreshment were dis patched with another load of necessary bag gage. Took the Sun's meridian altitude again to day & found the latitude to be 340 27' 27" being 4" less than yesterday; should no more observa tions for the Latitude be made here, we may consider it as fixed at 340 27' 29". The Therm? at 3^ p.m. 47? We may prepare for another cold night : a flock of swans passed us to day : we have had an abundance of venison & turkey since we landed here, sufficient to supply the whole party with fresh provisions. The bank or hill upon which we are encamped is at least 50 feet perpendicular above the present level of the river, and therefore I presume 30 feet clear of inundation. Some hills of considerable height are in view, clothed with pine trees, but the lands around us extending far beyond our view, lie very handsomely for cultivation ; the super stratum [95 ] stratum is of blackish brown color from 8 to 12 f 1804 inches deep, lying upon a yellowish basis, the [December whole intermixed more or less with stone & gravel & fragments of blue schistus, which is frequently found so far decomposed as to have a strong aluminous taste. The therm? at 8h p.m. 2 6° ; very serene and calm, the stars shone with uncommon lustre : in an hour more the face of the heavens was changed, a general cloud pro duced an intense darkness ; the therm? rose to 36? and we expected snow or rain ; after mid night notwithstanding, the clouds were dissi pated, the face of heaven recovered its brightness & the Stars shone with undiminished splendor. Extremes of the therm? 1 o°— 47? Therm? in air 1 90 in river water 41? very Sunday 9?b serene — Wind moderate at N.W. river risen 2 inches. The people returned from the springs between gh & ioh a.m. and after some time given for repose and refreshment, the party set out again with such baggage as was immediately wanted, and Doctor Hunter and myself accom panied them; the people complained of the length of the road and weight of the loads, we therefore diminished the latter ; The Sergeant and one private remained in care of the Barge and her stores. We left the river camp about noon and with many delays and haults for rest ing we arrived at the hot springs at 4^ h p.m. — the [96] 1804 "I the distance is computed to be 9 miles, which December; we gj^n verjfy by actual measurement, probably on our return : the first six miles were in a gen eral westerly direction with many sinuosities and the last three northerly, which courses were ne cessary to avoid crossing some very steep hills. We found on the way three principal salt-licks & some inferior, which are all frequented by buffalo, deer &c the soil around consisted of a white tenacious clay, probably fit for Potter's ware; hence the name ' Glaise ' which the french hunters have bestowed upon most of the licks which are frequented by the beasts of the forest, altho' salt is not always to be found in such places so as to merit attention: we saw on the way recent tracts of the Buffalo and several Deer skipped along before us; we did not follow the game, being desireous of arriving at our destination be fore evening. The people were much fatigued with this days labor, altho' the road is by no means bad or hilly, but there is no doubt that a heavy load constantly bearing a man down must be very fatiguing upon the best of roads : the time and difficulties of moving our small baggage and provisions, altho' nothing but what is essentially necessary, to so small a distance, naturally sugests the inconveniencies which must arise in transporting over unknown mountains between the sources of the red and Arcansa rivers, baggage & provisions indispensibly ne cessary, [97] cessary, with tools and implements for the con- [1804 struction of a boat or boats to descend the 2d [December river. Soldiers accustomed to carry moderate loads only, would find it intolerable to trans port burthens which would be thought light by a Canadian or other woodsman enured to such hardships : a little calculation will shew what ideas we ought to form upon this subject. The provisions, instruments, arms & other baggage which may be deemed indispensible for 1 5 per sons engaged on such an expedition, i. e. what must be transported from the head of one river to the commencement of navigation on the other, are certainly not over-rated at 3000 lib ; of the whole party 10 carriers are the highest number we can calculate upon, some being ne cessary to guard the two camps while the scien tific persons unattended would explore the envi rons : those 1 o carriers from what we have seen could not be expected to carry for a number of days successively more than 50 pounds each (several of our people were incapable of doing so much) and ten miles to go loaded & return empty day after day even on a tollerably level road, is perhaps beyond what we can flatter our selves with accomplishing ; thus it would require at least six days to transport the baggage 10 miles, and the seventh would be demanded as a day of repose : now if the heads of navigation should be only 50 miles apart, & the passage not rugged [98 ] 1804 1 rugged or mountainous, it would require at the December] jeagt ^ j^g to pagg aiong the unknown region ; and if allowance be made for such difficulties as ought to be expected including bad weather, we shall perhaps still flatter ourselves, if we expect to complete this portage in 50 days : on due con sideration therefore it may be more advantageous (if the expedition is to be carried on by soldiers who cannot travel without their rations, tents, baggage & above all their execrable whisky) to explore one river only at a time. When arrived at the head of Navigation which will constitute a kind of head quarters and point of departure, the scientific men with a sufficient party may make with tollerable convenience excursions of 30, 40 or 50 miles in all directions, prolonging the time according to the fortune of procuring game, which will enable the party to reserve the provisions taken from Camp for their return : an advantage resulting from this plan would be the facility of transporting specimens of natural his tory meriting attention ; it is evident that this benefit must, upon the other plan, be nearly given up excepting on the descent of the second river. I am not ignorant that the plan originally pro posed may be carried into effect, but this must be done by persons chosen for the object, in order that it may be done with economy & in a rea sonable time: Two young men of science of robust constitutions attended by four Canadian or [99 ] or other woodsmen inured to fatigue and who f 1804 can depend altogether on their guns for subsist- [December ence may accomplish this object; they will be able to transport at once, their blankets, their arms and amunition, a little parched meal, very light instruments, such as a 3 inch sextant which may be graduated to 20" of a degree, a pocket case with a few re-agents for mineralogical as says, and 3 or 4 days provisions in case of disap pointment in finding game; (spirituous liquors must be out ofthe question :) Such a party, each carrying a light ax for the purpose of building Canoes &c may accomplish the object proposed, upon supposition that no hostility is to be ap prehended from the natives. From the river camp for about two miles, the lands are level and of second rate quality, the timber chiefly oak intermixed with others common to the climate and a few scattering pine-trees ; further on, the lands on either hand arose into gently swelling hills, clothed chiefly with handsome pine-woods : the road passed along a valley frequently wet, by numerous rills and springs of excellent water which broke from the foot of the hills : as we approached the hot- springs the hills became more elevated and of steep ascent & generally rocky ; those hills are here dignified by the name of mountains, altho' none of those yet in view exceed 4 or 500 feet ; it is said that mountains of more than five times the [ I0° ] 1804 | the elevation of these hills are to be seen in the December/ North-west towards the sources of the Washita river ; one of those has been called the glass, Chrystal or Shining mountain, on its surface is to be found vast numbers of large hexagonal prisms of very transparent colorless chrystal, gen erally surmounted by pyramids at one end, rarely at both ; they do not produce a double refrac tion : many searches have been made over those mountains for the precious mettals, but hitherto without success, so far as I can learn. We found at the Hot-springs an Open Log- Cabin and a few huts of split boards, all calcu lated for summer encampment, & which have been erected by persons resorting to the Springs for the recovery of their health ; we shall en deavour to render our temporary lodging com fortable for the people and ourselves during the short time we expect to stay here : we are a little discouraged by the dilatory ways of the Soldiers ; it is evident that to promote the ad vancement of an object similar to ours, they ought to be commanded by a commissioned officer, whose manners and disposition would render him an agreeable companion to his fel low laborers : it cannot be said that the Soldiers are disobedient, on the contrary they are to me uniformly respectful, but it sometimes appears that a spur is wanting, & there is no person here who treats them otherwise than with civility ; there [ ioi ] there is also some appearance of design to pro- ;i8o4 long their return to new-orleans, the present [December service being much more agreeable to them than the duty of a garrison under the eye of their officer. On our arrival we immediately tasted of the hot-spring water, that is, after a few minutes cooling, for it was impossible to approach it with the lips when first taken up, without scald ing : having arrived here without prejudice for or against the springs I did not discover any other taste except that of very good water ren dered hot by culinary fire ; some of our people pretended to have discovered cathartic proper ties, which must be feeble, as I have been unable to detect the existence of such a quality in the waters. Therm? at 8h p.m. 28? Extremes i9°-42? Therm? 260 — very serene. Wind moderate at Monday io'.h N.W. — We spent a cold night in our new lodgings, not being able to keep up a large fire in the Cabin, which is only 1 2 feet square with out a chimney. From the complaints of great fatigue by the people, we found it necessary to allow some repose, and ordered the people to go into the river camp, there to remain during the night and return the day following with more of our baggage, directing the loads to be made still lighter : the day proved serene and fine, but as we had been obliged to leave our in struments [ IQ2 ] 1804 1 struments yesterday at the river-camp, no astro- December; noniical observations could be made this day. We visited all the hot springs ; they issue from the sides and foot of a hill placed on the east side of the narrow valley where we are hutted, one small spring only rises out of the face of the west bank of the creek ; from the quantity of calcareous matter deposited by it it does not appear to be of long standing ; a natural con duit probably passes under the bed of the creek to supply it. There are four principal springs arising immediately on the east bank of the Creek, one of which may rather be said to spring out of the gravel bed of run ; a fifth smaller one is that just mentioned rising on the west side of the creek ; a sixth of the same magnitude is the highest or most northerly one rising near the bank of the Creek ; those are all the sources which merit the name of springs near to our huts ; but there is a considerable one some dis tance below, & all along the creek at intervals the water oozes out or drips from under the bank into the creek, which during the present cool season is very evident from the condensed vapor which floats along the margin of the Creek, where those drippings are visible & even where none is to be seen ; a statement will here after be given of the temperatures of the respec tive springs with the quantity of water delivered and references to their respective positions ; from [ io3 ] from some slight trials, it appears that the high- f 1804 est temperature is about 1480 to 150? of Farhe- [December neit's thermometer. In the afternoon we ascended the hill of the hot springs, it is of a conical form terminating at top with a few loose fragments of rocks cov ering a flat space of twenty five feet diameter : altho' we have said the hill is conical, yet it is not entirely insulated, for it is connected by a very narrow ridge with the neighbouring hills. The primitive rock of this hill above the base is chiefly Silicious, some part of it being of the hardest flint, others of the nature of freestone extremely compact & solid, and of a great va riety of colors ; the base of the hill, & indeed for a considerable extent, is composed of blackish blue schistus, which divides into perpendicular laminae like blue slate; The water of the hot springs is therfore delivered from the siliceous rock, but this is generally invisible at the surface, being encrusted by or rather buried in the mass of calcareous matter, perpetually precipitated from the water; iron in small proportion was also deposited in form of a red calx, the colour of which was frequently distinguishable in the lime. Under the hotest water we observed a lively green appearance, which at first induced us to suppose that copper might be present, but on closer inspection, we found it to be a soft tender matter, [ I04 ] 1 804 1 matter, perhaps a feculum deposited by the water ; December; jt may possibly be of the same nature with the green matter found in conduits or even in well buckets under pure water at common tempera ture, respecting which a dispute arose (I think) between Doctor Priestly and other Philosophers, whether this green mater is a perfect vegetable or only a feculum ; the question is perhaps now decided (if we suppose the green matter of the hot springs to be of the same kind) for by rea soning from analogy, no vegetable can be sup posed to exist in the temperature of 1 500 ; but we must beware of presuming to set bounds to the powers of Nature : we shall hereafter ex amine this matter with due attention ; we shall only now observe, that this substance seems to be deposited by successive thin lamina?. As we advanced up the calcareous region of the hill, we discovered several patches of rich black earth, which appears to be formed by the decomposition ofthe calcareous matter: in other situations appeared an incrustation of limestone, i. e. the superficial earth was penetrated, indu rated and encrusted by lime with fine laminae or minute fragments of iron ore : we entertained no doubt that the water of the hot springs had here issued formerly from the hill and run over the surface, and that the entire mass of the cal careous rock to the height of one hundred feet perpendicular has been created by the incessant depositions [ ios] depositions ofthe hot springs; in this high sit- [1804 uation we found a spring whose temperature is [December 140? After passing the calcareous region, we found the primitive hill covered by a forest, whose trees were not ofthe largest size ; they consisted chiefly of Oak, Pine, Cedar, Holly, hawthorn with many others common to the climate, with a great variety of vines, some said to produce black & some yellow grapes, both excellent in their kinds : the soil is extremely rocky, inter spersed with gravel, sand & fine black vegetable mold. When we had advanced about 250 feet perpendicular up the hill, we found a change in the soil ; it was equally stoney & gravelly as be low with a superficial coat of black mold but immediately under the last was found a basis of fat, tenacious, soapy, red clay, inclining to the colour of bright Spanish snuff; it seemed to be very homogeneous with scarcely any admixture of sand and no saline taste, but rather soft and agreeable ; the same timber continues but di minishing in size as we ascend the hill, and rocks increasing to the top : We estimate the whole height ofthe hill to be about 300 feet above the level of the valley where we are hutted. Therm? at 8h p.m. 28? Extremes 26°~5o? Thermometer before sun-rise 48? Wind S.E. Tuesday 11th The weather changed very much in the night ; it [ io6] 1804 1 it became much warmer and the heavens were December/ overcast with one general cloud; the air was still damp and penetrating, and our mansion per vious to the chilling blast, but we made good fires and comforted ourselves in the expectation of favorable weather to enable us to complete our observations and researches. The People ar rived about one o'clock in the afternoon with a few things including the instruments. At 3^ p.m. the thermometer rose to 590 and in the evening at Sh fell to 500, the weather be ing still disagreeable and cloudy. Some venison was brought in after dinner — The People five in number went back to the river to fetch tools and necessaries, while others were occupied in raising a log-chimney at the end of our Cabin, which we proposed to line with stone as a se curity against fire. No change in the appearance of the weather at bed-time. Extremes of the therm? 48°-59° Wednesday 1 2l.h Thermometer before sun-rise 3 6? The weather has become colder, but still continues overcast, damp and disagreeable, the wind being about north, a few drops of rain fell last evening & during the night. As it still continues cloudy, no astronomical observations could be made, I there fore occupied myself in the forenoon in bringing up and completing my journals, and in the after noon went to examine all the hot springs with the [ io7 ] the thermometer: four principal springs seemed ("1804 only to merit attention; those which yielded the I December greatest quantity of water were of the highest temperature and are in the following order. N? 1 — 1500 N?2 1450 — N?3 — 136 and N? 4 1320 the last in order is the only one on the west side of the creek and I did not perceive any signs of hot water anywhere else on that side of the Creek, I therefore conceived that the spring N? 4 is supplied by a channel under the Creek from the general reservoir in the hill on the East : at the spring N° 3 was a small bason of some little depth, in which was a considerable quantity of the green matter in temperature 1 34? it had much the appearance of a vegetating body, being detached from the bottom yet con nected by something like a stem which rested in Calcareous matter, the body of one of those pseudo-plants was about 4 to 5 inches diameter, the bottom a smooth film of some tenacity & the upper surface divided into ascending fibres of y to y. of an inch long resembling the gills of a fish, formed into a kind of transverse rows ; not being then prepared for a more minute in vestigation, a future examination will be made with the microscope. Should it prove that this is a vegetable production and not an accumula tion caused by precipitation, it will be a new proof of the wonderfull powers of nature in the production of animal & vegetable life in tem peratures [ io8 ] 1 804 \ peratures which have been hitherto thought suf- December/ ncient to extinguish the vital principle : Should this green matter prove to be vegetable, I shall confidently expect the discovery of animal life ; for no plant I believe upon due research will be found without its animal inhabitant. A little farther on, we came to another small muddy bason, in which a vermes about y an inch long, was moving with a serpentine or vermicular mo tion, the water was found a little warm to the finger : I observed invariably that the green mat ter forming on stones & leaves covered a stratum of Calcareous Earth, sometimes a little hard & brittle, but at other times soft and imperfect, but whether the lime favors the production of the green matter or vice versa, we probably shall not have time to ascertain. Therm* at 8 p.m. 36? Extremes 36°-5o? Thursday 13th Therm* before sunrise 26? Wind north. The weather still continues cloudy, dark and disagree able ; finding no probability of making any as tronomical observations this day I determined to make an excursion upon the neighbouring west ern mountain, and having gained one of its sum mits about y a mile from the Camp, took various courses of Hills & points on the river, & hav ing gone to its extreme summit to the westward about a mile distant, I took courses to the same points in order to ascertain nearly their positions : We [ io9 ] We had several fine prospects from this hill, [1804 which we estimated to be 300 feet higher than [December the valley of the hot Springs where we first as cended, and 400 feet at its western ^extremity; the valley of the Washita river comprehended between the hills on either side, seemed a per fect flat & about 1 2 miles wide, on all hands we saw the hills, called here mountains rising be hind each other : in the direction of north the most distant were supposed to be 50 miles off, & are considered to be those of the arcansa river, the rugged mountains which divide the waters ofthe arcansa from those ofthe Washita prevent the Osage Indians from visiting the Washita river, of whose existence they are in general ignorant; were it otherwise, their excursions here, would prevent this place being visited by White persons or even Indians of other tribes, as they make no difficulty of traveling round the mountains which give birth to the Washita by the great prairies, which lie east of the great dividing Ridge, and it is known that those rob bers plunder indiscriminately all they can find. In the direction of S.W. we saw at about 50 miles distance, a ridge perfectly level which we sup posed to be the high prairies or planes ofthe red river, so that we had under our Eye an horizon whose diameter was 1 00 miles, incomplete to the East & N.W. Notwithstanding the late severity of the weather, we found along the ridge a con siderable [ »o] 1804 [ siderable number and some variety of plants in December; floweF, & others retaining their verdure, We found indeed the ridge much more temperate than the valley ; When we left the valley it was extremely damp, cold and penetrating ; upon as cending the ridge, the atmosphere became dry & mild, so that walking thereon was perfectly agreeable : a few of the plants in flower were collected for specimens, but what surprised us much was to find upon this ridge a species of Cabbage, the plants grew with expanded leaves spreading on the ground, of a deep green with a shade of purple, the taste of the cabbage was plainly predominant with an agreeable warmth inclining to the raddish ; several tap-roots pene trated into the soil, of a white colour, having the taste of horse raddish, but much milder ; a quantity of them were brought to camp & when dressed proved palatable & mild; it is highly improbable that any Cabbage seed has ever been scattered upon this ridge, the hunters ascending this River have always pursued far different ob jects ; we must therefore consider this Cabbage (untill farther elucidation) as indigenous to this sequestered quarter & may be denominated the Cabbage raddish of the Washita. I shall preserve and take with me several living plants in hopes of procuring in due time seeds from which the curious may be furnished. We also found grow ing here a plant which is now green, called by the [ I" ] the French *racine rouge' (red root) which is [1804 said to be a specific in female obstructions, it has [December also been used combined with the china root to die red, which last probably acts as a mordant : having understood that it has also been used with the bark or root of an aromatic Vine, (which I shewed to Mr Bartram at Baton Rouge) for the same purpose of fixing a red die. The top of this ridge is in a manner crowned by rocks of a flinty kind. So very hard as to be improper for gun flints ; when applied to that purpose, it very soon digs out cavities in the hammer ofthe lock. This hard stone is generally white but frequently clouded with red, brown black & some other colours, and no doubt in the hands of a practical mineralogist, would receive a variety of denomi nations such as agate, jaspar, calcedony, Carne lian & perhaps some of the adamantine genus. Notwithstanding the abundance of rock, a great deal of excellent black vegetable earth was found along the ridge, and generally an understratum of darkish or greyish brown earth producing oak & Hickory with other woods & a great number of grape vines, said to yield excellent black grapes, there is no doubt that this soil upon the top & sides of these hills is well adapted to reward the labors of an expert Vigneron. Here & there we met with fragments of Iron stone & often where a tree had been overturned by the roots, some schistose stones were brought to view which [ "2] 1 8 04 1 which were suffering decomposition by their December; eXp0sure to the atmosphere; in returning we descended the hill obliquely & found for 200 feet perpendicular the same kind of stone, much broken into loose fragments, and slipping under foot frequently endangered our falling, the hill being in many places extremely precipitous: in this position we dug into the side of the hill and found the 2d stratum to consist of a reddish Clay somewhat resembling that found near the top of the Conical hill to the East of our Camp, but not so highly coloured nor so argilacious, the proportion of silex being manifestly much greater. We continued to descend and found at y of the hill downwards, the rock to alter con siderably. & altho' it still continued siliceous, yet it was rather a very hard freestone mixed with fragments of flint which had probably rolled from above, descending still lower we found a blue schistus, in a state tending to decomposition wherever it was exposed to the atmosphere; more interiorly the schistus was hard resembling coarse Slate. Few other argilacious stones pre sented themselves to view, the siliceous were al ways predominant ; & we often found what had much the appearance of the Turkey oyl-stone. Towards, the base of the hill was a considerable expansion of tollerably good land, lying suffi ciently level for cultivation and is supposed to be a good soil for wheat. The timber such as above described [ "3 ) described with a large proportion of Pine. J 1804 Therm* at 8* p.m. 3o° Extremes 26°-40° wind [December North. Therm* 2 8° Wind N.E. Cloudy, dark, cold Friday 14'.? and sleet — This morning has made no improve ment upon the weather ; rain & sleet fell in the night & the ground is hard frozen. D- Hunter had proposed an excursion into the mountains with a Party this day, but the appearance of the weather forbids it : the bad state of our mansion calling for further repairs in the present severe weather, we employed some of our people in shutting up the cracks and openings between the logs, which will render our dwelling more com fortable ; placed some of the flowers collected between hortus-siccus-paper and had the roots of the new Cabbage planted so as to be preserved until our return. The day continues to drip a little from time to time, being still dark, damp and disagreeably cold. Therm* at Sh p.m. 32? Extremes 280- 40? We have news from the Sergeant that the river has fallen 5 feet. Therm* 260 Wind N.W. strong. The morn- Saturday 15'? ing was cloudy, but less dark and disagreeable than the day before. The air became drier and the clouds were dissipating by 9 & 10 o'clock ; prepared for a meridian observation ; the wind blew [ "4 ] 1804 7 blew very strong down the valley, we are here December; piaced as in a point of convergence ; for whether the wind blows directly or obliquely into the valley from above or below, it is reflected from the faces of the hills on one hand & by three lesser vallies on the other so as to have its force directed against this point as a Center; there will therefore be a breeze here when there is none upon the adjoining hills, perhaps the rare faction produced by the hot Springs may also contribute in some measure at this season. At noon had an observation altho' much disturbed by the frequent recurrence of violent blasts of wind which greatly agitated the mercury of the artificial horizon ; it appears that the Lat. here will be about 340 31', but as I intend to make a short series of observations with the face of the Instrument both East & west, the final result will then appear. Therm* at 3h p.m. 320 at 8h p.m. 30? Sunday 16* Therm* 21° Wind moderate N W this morning is cold but promises fine weather, the wind nevertheless arose at 9 o'clock & continued to blow strong all day. Prepared for astronomi cal observations. Took corresponding equal alti tudes of the Sun with corresponding azimuths before & afternoon, with the help of a common circumferenter, by which it appears that the magnetic variation is 8° 20' East; this being about [ "5 ] about the expected variation, we may conclude, /1804 that the needle is not here influenced by any [ local attraction Took also equal altitudes for the regulation of the watch before & afternoon. Took also the Suns mer. alt. with the face of the Instrument reversed, and in the Evening be tween i o & 1 1 o'clock, the Therm* being at 22° perfectly serene & calm, took 9 lunar dis tances between the moon's east limb & a Arie- tis ; the evening was perfectly agreeable & not sensibly cold altho' the Therm* was so low ; I conclude these observations to have been made with great accuracy from the advantages of the circumstances, the Circle was mounted on its pedestral very firmly, the Star towards the west &,the moon over head so that when both were brought into the field of view & the Star made to move gently across the limb of the moon by a turn of the foot screw backwards & forwards, or by sliding the foot a little to the right & left so as to discover the true point of contact on the moon's limb, the Star being left a little open, the observer had only to wait with his eye fixed on a permanent steady object untill he was con vinced of the contact being perfect ; I consider one observation made in this way superior to any number or set of observations made by an in strument supported upon the arms of the most experienced observer ; I would therefore recom mend to all persons using a Sextant or reflecting Circle [ "6 ] 1804 1 Circle by land, to adopt a pedestal of support December; wJth the three necessary motions ; the superior ity is so great that he who has accustomed him self to use the one mode cannot reconcile him self to the manifest imperfection of the other ; the observation being made the angle is read off without stirring the Instrument, so that every thing is ready fixed to the eye for the next ob servation ; I perceive that when all things are favorable a set of distances may be taken by the difference of i' of a degree precisely between the observations ; i. e. by moving the index before making the observation, exactly one minute in advance, so that it may be written down by the assistant before the time of counting Seconds : this will operate as a check also upon the negli gences of young assistants, a mistake in minutes of time would thus be easily detected ; this mode I shall follow in future, as being easier and more perfect: Therm* at 8!1 p.m. 22° Extremes 2i°- 34° Monday 17th Therm* before Sun rise 26? wind moderate N.W. The morning is bright & promises a fine day. Yesterday Doc* Hunter made an excursion into the mountains, & to day he goes again. He discovered nothing of importance hitherto, the only metal of which we have seen any indica tions has been Iron, the ore of which is scattered about in small fragments upon the hills and in the [ "7 ] the water courses. Prepared for observation — ("1804 took equal altitudes of the Sun before & after- [December noon to correct the watch, which compared with the result of yesterday's equal altitudes will give the rate of the watch's going, by which the true time of the Lunar observations will be precisely ascertained: took the Sun's meridian altitude with the face of the Instrument again reversed : prepared to observe the distance of the moon from Aldebaran, expecting fine observations from so bright a Star, but we were disappointed, the evening become hazy, the Stars frequently ob scured, and a large halo with a broad white brim appeared around the moon. The night became cloudy & some drops of rain or sleet fell, appear ance of bad weather for to morrow Therm* at 8h p.m. 280 Extremes 26°-42? Therm* 340 wind north, Cold, damp, dis- Tuesday 18th agreeable. The appearance of the weather pre vents D°r Hunter from making another excursion to day, some rain fell in the night, but the aspect of this morning bespeaks snow or sleet. Hav ing no better occupation in the present state of the weather, I brought up my journals and began to form a list of all the vegetables I had seen here and in the neighbourhood upon the River which will be inserted in this journal when made a little more complete ; The day continues dark, cloudy & rainy : in the afternoon it began to hail [ "8 ] 1804 1 hail & in the evening it snowed pretty fast ; December/ about gh p m h wag ^ incnes thick ; Therm? at the same hour 3 2° Extremes 320— 36° This evening Doc* Hunter was very much indisposed but was relieved before bed time. Wednesday 19'! Therm* 300 wind in the valley West, but changeable ; This morning we have a full pros pect of a northern winter, the ground is covered 4 inches deep with snow and it continues from time to time to fall, tho' not remarkably fast, the eves of our Cabin hang with beautiful icicles, which we have the pleasure of admiring thro' the logs as we sit by the fire side : out-door busi ness being out of the question, I continue to augment my list of vegetables from memory & with the help ofthe pilot, who proves to be tol erably intelligent. The Doctor has been unable to discover any thing in the water of the hot springs except some weak acid which is prob ably carbonic ; the water has been from this cause a little hard & therefore not so proper for washing, as the soap is decomposed in some measure : the same state of the weather contin ues, the therm* at 31? p.m. being at 300 and at 8h p.m. 28? at bed time the weather still con tinues dark and threatening more snow. Thursday 20th Therm? 30? wind in the valley west. There appears over head driving light clouds from the N. W. [ "9 ] N.W. The snow still continues lying on the; 1804 ground, the night was very cold, but has greatly [December softened towards morning, from appearances we expect a thaw, it becomes a little clearer. The D?5 and myself both a little indisposed probably from cold & wet feet and the inclemency of the weather ; after breakfast, some hopes of the clouds dissipating. The Sun has shewn himself thro' the veil of clouds for a moment, Prepare for observation but disappointed the heavens are again completely veiled in clouds and a thaw comes on, the Therm* being at 36? at 3^ p.m. Engaged writing great part of the day. Exam ined some water of one ofthe hot springs, which stood a little stagnated on one side, its tempera ture 1 3 20 found no living animal in it, by the aid of an excellent microscope examined also some of the green matter and the white coagulum lying under it which I shall further prosecute with day light, being unable yet to determine whether the green matter is vegetable or merely a feculum. Therm? at iohp.m. 320 The weather continues cloudy & the snow lies upon the ground the thaw having stopped. Therm*, 3 2° Wind N. No favorable change Friday 2i!t as yet in the weather ; cloudy, damp, dark & cold, the snow still lies upon the ground, so that the D™ is unable to undertake another more considerable excursion as he intended. We were in [ l2° ] 1804 1 in hopes also of making another set of astro- December j nomical observations for the Long, of this place, but as the time is now much advanced we shall be desirous of getting away as soon as the weather permits the transport of our baggage : — in the meantime the Doctor is desireous of making another excursion while we are preparing to move : observed a spot of ground on the same side of the creek with the hot Springs, covered with herbage which had not lost but partially its verdure ; upon this spot no snow lay, it appeared to thaw as soon as it fell, altho' on other places even very near some of the hot springs the snow remained undissolved; as soon as the weather permits I shall examine this ground and ascer tain the temperature which resists the rigours of winter : what a fine situation for a green or hot house, where at a small expence all the tropical fruits may be propagated. Therm* at 31? p.m. 36° it has rained a little we were in hopes of seeing the snow carried away, that it might afterwards become dry under foot : yesterday our pilot & some of the people went out a hunt ing & fell in with some buffalo ; two of them were shot at and grievously wounded, the blood streaming from their sides as this happened in the evening they were unable to follow the chase, but returned to the pursuit this morning, they discovered the tracks and blood which they followed great part of the day without com ing [ 121 ] ing up with the buffalo & were obliged to re- / 1804 turn without success ; it appears that the great [December strength of this animal enables him to carry off on many occasions several shots without falling, it is necessary to shoot him thro' the heart to make him fall speedily ; we are told that a rifle bullet is by no means certain (if ever so well directed) of penetrating thro' the scull into the brain, or if it does, provided the ball only reaches into the front or fore part of the brain, the an imal will not fall ; some even assert that the thickness and strength of the scull with the im mense quantity of hair which covers the head of the buffalo will resist the penetration of an ordinary rifle bullet. Some venison was brought in so that we are never without fresh provisions. The Turkeys are not plenty in this neighbour hood, keeping near the river. Found a myrtle wax tree covered with its fruit, which must have hung since July or August, the wax is no longer green having changed its colour to a greyish white by being so long exposed to the atmosphere ; examined the berries with the mi croscope ; the whole berry is a little oval and less than the smallest garden pea, the nucleus or real seed is as large as a raddish seed covered all over with a number of brownish kidney shaped glands of a brown colour & sweetish taste, those glands secrete the wax, which completely en velopes them & gives the whole the appearance at [ I22 ] 1804 [at this season of an imperfectly white berry; DecemberJ this is a valuable plant and merits cultivation; its favorite position is a dry soil rather poor & looking down upon the water, it is excellently adapted to ornament the Margins of Canals, lakes or rivulets ; the Capina Yapon is equally beautiful & proper for the same purpose. It grows here along the banks of this stoney Creek intermingled with the myrtle, and bears a beau tiful little red berry very much resembling the red Currant. Therm* at 8h p.m. 310 Saturday 221:1 Therm* 3 1 ° wind N. dark & cloudy, the Snow continues upon the ground, without any pros pect of favourable change ; after breakfast it be gan to rain, the water the rain froze as it fell upon the branches ofthe trees, many limbs broke down around us in consequence of the weight of the Ice adhering to them ; we are still confined within doors by the inclemency of the weather which greatly retards us, so that We cannot even prosecute our intended researches respecting the hot springs. Engaged writing great part of the day ; we had 1 o quarts of the hot spring water evaporated which produced about 10 grains of matter, of which the chief part appeared to be carbonated lime with some feculum, the greater part disolved with effervescence in the muriatic acid. The Therm? at 3^ p. m. 360 The day continues unfavorable & keeps dropping rain from [ I23 ] from time to time, yet the snow does not melt : Ji8o4 The temperature of the hot springs remains the [December same as in the former trial & the temperature of boiling water was ascertained to be 212° hence it appears that this place is not elevated so as sensibly to alter the pressure of the atmosphere, otherwise water would boil at a smaller temper ature. Caused a number of the grape vines to be dug up ready to carry along with us. The Doctor goes on with some more experiments upon the Spring water, the results will be hereafter given. Therm* at Sh p.m. 340 Snow falls again this Evening — no prospect of a change. Therm* before sunrise 300. Wind N.W. by Sunday 23rd the clouds, blows down the valley reflected from the side of the hill N.N.E ; this morning some appearance of a change. The clouds (scudding from the N.W.) begin to dissipate, the blue celestial Sky appears in several parts of the hea vens. The snow still lies partially on the ground — but we hope it will soon disolve as the Sun appears ; prepare for taking equal altitudes in which I succeeded so far as to take the triple contact in the morning for the regulation of the watch and also one azimuth with time & alti tude for finding the variation of the magnetic needle ; prepared for a meridian observation in order to complete my set of 4 observations for .the Latitude of this place, but was disappointed by [ I24 ] 1804 \ by the intervention of Clouds ; seeing no pros- December; pect Q£ taking correspondent altitudes in the afternoon determined on visiting the hot springs & adjacent places : It requires a length of time to form a good judgement of a new object, such as the curious one now before us, on the first view we see a creek with a margin of rock & the hot springs here and there trickling over or passing thro' them ; the Creek seems to be un dermining the rock, which frequently cracks, divides and falls into the Creek ; upon a closer examination it will be found that the water of the Creek does not undermine the rock, but on the contrary the rock is continually encroaching upon the breadth of the creek ; the hot water is perpetually depositing calcareous matter, per haps some siliceous matter also : the new formed rock by those means is continually augmenting & projecting its cliffs and promontories over the running water, which prevents this formation below its own surface : wherever the calcareous crust is seen spreading over the bank & margin of the Creek, there most certainly the hot water will be found, either passing over the surface or thro' some channel perhaps below the new rock, or dripping from the projecting edges of the over-hanging precipice ; the progress of nature in the formation of this new rock is curious & worthy the attention of the mineralogist ; when the hot water issues from the fountain it fre quently [ 125] quently spreads over a superficies of some extent ; / 1804 so far as it reaches on either hand there is a de- tDecember position of dark green matter which may either be a plant or only a feculum, I have not yet been able to pronounce which, several laminae of this green matter will be found lying over each other; immediately under and in contact with the inferior lamina which is not thicker than paper is found a whitish matter resembling a coagulum ; when viewed with the microscope, this last is also found to consist of several, some times a great number of laminae, of which that next the green matter is the thinest and finest being the last formed, those below encreasing in thickness & tenacity, until the last terminates on a soft earthy matter, and this last reposing on the more solid rock ; each lamina of the coagu lum is penetrated in all its parts by calcareous grains which are extremely minute and divided in the more recent web but much larger and occupying the whole of the inferior lamina ; I think it probable that the coagulum is silex and no doubt the grains are lime the under stratum is continually consolidating & adding bulk and heigth to the rock ; when this acquires a certain elevation the water always seeking the quickest descent will find its way over another part ofthe rock, hill or margin of the creek & forms accu mulations by turns over the whole ofthe adjacent space ; the green matter is also designed by nature for [ 126 ] • 1804 1 for a useful purpose ; when the water by seeking December; new channels has entirely forsaken its former situation, the green matter which acquires some times a thickness of half an inch, is speedily converted into a rich vegitable earth & becomes the food of plants, the calcareous surface itself decomposes and forms the richest black mold intimately mixed with a considerable proportion of silex (formed as I have supposed from the coagulum) plants and trees of every kind now vegetate luxuriantly upon this soil ; many how ever thrive upon the rock, where very little earth is to be seen, particularly the cedar which seems to grow from between the clefts ofthe hard rock. The grape vine also seems to prosper in this un promising situation. I proceeded to examine the piece of ground (above-mentioned) upon which the snow would not lie: I found it covered in a great measure with herbage, which was in part turned brownish by the season, altho' there was on a part of it a very small fine grass which was green, a calcareous Crust appeared in some places at the surface but in general there was a depth of 5 or 6 inches & in some places a foot of the richest black mold, the surface was manifestly warm to the touch ; the Therm* in the air was then at 44? when placed 4 inches under the surface & covered with earth, it rose rapidly to 68? and when placed at 8 inches or upon the calcareous rock and covered up it rose to 80? this [ I27 ] this result was very uniform over the whole J 1804 surface which was about a quarter of an acre : [December in searching we found a spring about 1 5 inches under the surface which raised the Therm?? to 130? Under the black mold was found a brown mixture of lime and silex very loose and divisi ble, which appeared to be advancing in its pro gress of decomposition towards the formation of black mold, under the brownish mass it grad ually became whiter and harder and at the depth of six to 1 2 inches was nearly hard calcareous stone sparkling with silex : it was evident from every thing we saw around that the water had passed over this place & formed a flat superfi cies of siliceous limestone, and that its position nearly level had facilitated the accumulation of earth in proportion as the decomposition ad vanced : Similar spots of earth were found higher up. The hill resembling little Savannahs near which were always found hot springs, which had once flowed over the Savannahs ; it seems probable that the hot water of the springs, at an early period had all issued from its grand recer- voir in the hill at a much higher elevation than at present, the Calcareous crust may be traced up in most situations on the west side of the hill looking down upon the Creek & valley to a certain heigth, perhaps 100 feet perpend: from that division the hill above rises precipitously & is studded all over with hard siliceous stones ; below [ ^8 ] 1804 1 below the descent is more gradual, the soil cal- Decembcr; Careous black earth, the rock itself very often at the surface, & frequently there is a precipice on the margin of the Creek or a very precipi tous descent along the calcarious new formed rock. The Therm* at 3h p.m. was at 440 and at 8h p.m. 38? Doctor Hunter continues indis posed. Monday 24th Therm* before Sun rise 32? Wind moderate from N.W. Some prospect this morning of a favorable change, the moon is visible, and the Sun yet behind the hill, announces his approach with a bright blase: prepare for observation — took the suns triple contact, hoping to ob tain correspondent observations in the afternoon to regulate the watch. The moon was already eclipsed by the Pine tree tops on the western hill before the sun was risen high enough in the East to enable us to take their distance ; We were therefore obliged to wait with patience and ordered all the intervening trees to be cut down to facilitate future observation: at noon obtained a good altitude of the Sun but soon afterwards it became cloudy, so that we got no corresponding altitudes for the regulation ofthe Watch. The Doctor found himself a little better, we agreed to walk up the hot spring hill to make new observations on this natural curiosity: we now [ I29 ] now found it easy to trace out the separation be- [1804 tween the primitive hill & that which has been [December accumulated upon its west side by precipitation from ye waters of the hot Springs ; this last is entirely confined to the west side of the hill washed at its base by the waters of the Creek, no hot spring being visible in any other part of its circumference ; by actual measurement along the base of the hill, the influence ofthe Springs is found to extend 70 perches in a direction a little to the eastward of North ; along the whole of this space the Springs have deposited stoney matter, which is probably principally Calcare ous, but there is also evidence of Silex and Iron. All the Springs deposit red calx of Iron in their passage to the Creek ; the existence of Silex does not appear to me to be so fully decided ; there is certainly sparkling chrystals mingled with the lime, particularly remarkable in the calcarious matter partially decomposed, but having ob served by the aid of the microscope that the whole of the calcarious rock exhibits nothing but a mass of congregated sparry matter, it is not improbable that those shining chrystals may be chrystalised lime; the Doctor is now employed upon an analysis which will, no doubt, decide the point; from some specimens I shall carry home with me, I shall hope to investigate the matter more at leisure. The accumulation of cal carious matter is much more considerable at the north [ :3° ] 1804 1 north end of the hill than towards the south; December/ the first may be above one hundred feet perpen dicular, but sloping much more gradually than the primitive hill above, until it approaches the creek, where not unfrequently it terminates in a precipice of from 6 to 20 feet : the difference between the appearance of the primitive and secondary hill is so striking, that the most su perficial observer cannot avoid taking notice of it : the first is regularly very steep studded with rock and stone of the hardest flint and other siliceous compounds all extremely hard, a su perficies of two or 3 inches of good mold covers a body of red clay above described : below on the secondary hill, which carries evident marks of recent formation, no flint or siliceous stone is to be seen; the Calcareous rock has concealed all from view, & is itself frequently covered by much fine rich black earth ; it would seem that this compound which is precipitated by the hot waters, encloses in its own bosom the seeds of its destruction, for it is remarkable that when the waters have ceased to flow over any portion of the rock, a superficial decomposition will there speedily take place ; tho' I am inclined to suspect that heat communicated from the inte rior of the hill below contributes much to this operation of nature, because it is observable, that insulated masses of the rock remain without change. The [ i3i ] The Cedar, the Wax-Myrtle and the Cassina [1804 Yapon, all beautiful evergreens attach themselves [December particularly to the calcareous region, & seem to grow and thrive in the clefts of the solid rock : at small intervals along the line of separation between the primitive and secondary hill, we discover many sources of hot water ; some flow ing with some degree of freedom, & others in a manner stagnated and shut in by the accumula tions of Stoney Concretion extracted by their own operation from the bowels of the hill. Any spring enjoying a freedom of position proceeds with great regularity in depositing its solid con tents ; the border or rim of its bason forms an elevated ridge, from whence proceeds a glacis all around ; when the waters have flowed for some time over one part of the brim, this be comes more elevated & the water can no longer escape on that side, but is compelled to seek a passage where the resistance is least, thus it pro ceeds with the greatest regularity forming in miniature a Crater resembling in shape the con ical summit of a volcano ; the hill being steep above, the progress of petrifaction is stopped on that side, & the waters continue to flow and spread abroad, encrusting the whole face of the hill below. I am persuaded that the accumula tions and extent of the calcareous matter would have been vastly greater, perhaps the whole val ley might haye been filled up with it, did not the [ !32 ] 1804 1 the continual running of the creek water put December J a st0p to its progression on that side : the last formed calcareous border of the circular bason, (covered by the green feculum) is soft and easily divided, a little under it is more compact, and at the depth of six inches, it is generally hard white stone; if the bottom ofthe bason is stirred up, a quantity of red calx of iron arises and es capes over the summit of the crater. It is surprising to see plants, shrubs and trees with their roots absolutely in the hot water ; this circumstance being observed by some of the visitants of the hot springs has induced some of them to try experiments by sticking branches of trees into the run of hot water ; we found some branches ofthe wax-Myrtle thrust into the bot tom of a spring-run, the water being at tem perature 1300 of Farheneit's thermometer, the foliage & fruit of the branch were not only sound and healthy, but at the very surface of the water fresh roots were actually sprouting from the branch ; the whole being pulled up for exami nation, it was found that the part which had penetrated into the hot mud was decayed : this phenomenon is so new & singular, that few per sons will at first be disposed to believe, judging that deception or want of accuracy has led us into error ; it is however in the power of every curious person who will give himself the neces sary trouble to try the experiments himself; in the [ "33 ] the meantime Doctor Hunter and his son are ("1804 evidences of the truth of the above statement. [December — A luxuriant vegetation clothes the decom posed surface ofthe calcareous region, the black rich mold being of a good depth in some few places (6 or more inches) & in others shallower, and the rock in other situations is nearly un changed, giving nourishment however to a mass of very short moss, which is gradually forming a soil different in appearance from that which is generated from the decomposed lime. The primitive part of the hill is greatly inferior in fertility to the secondary or recent portion, but it is far from being sterile : grape vines abound in both, particularly in the calcareous soil. It may be proper to pause for a moment and enquire what may be the cause of the perpetual fire which keeps up without change the high temperature of so many springs flowing from this hill at considerable distances from each other. Upon looking around us, no data pre sent themselves sufficient for the solution of the problem ; nothing of a volcanic nature is to be seen in this country, neither have we been able to learn that in any part ofthe hills or mountains connected with this river, there is any evidence in favor of such a supposition. An immense bed of blackish blue schistus appears to form the basis of the hot-spring hill and of all those in its neighbourhood. The bottom or bed of the creek [ 134] 1 804 1 creek is composed of scarcely any thing else ; I December; have frequently taken up pieces of this stone, rendered soft by decomposition and possessing a very strong aluminous taste; it seemed to re quire nothing but lixiviation and chrystalisation to complete the manufacture of alumn. As all bodies which suffer chemical changes, generally produce an alteration of temperature, it may be enquired whether the decomposing schistus is capable of generating a degree of Caloric corre sponding to the temperature of the hot springs. Another cause we shall notice which perhaps will be thought more satisfactory: it is well known that in several positions within the Circle of the waters of this river, vast beds of martial pyrites exist ; they have not yet been discovered in the vicinage of the hot springs, but it is ex tremely probable that they may be accumulated in immense strata under the bases of those hills, and as we have noticed at one place at least some evidence of the existence of bitumen,* we cannot doubt that due proportions of those prin ciples united, will in the progress of decompo sition by the admission of air & moisture pro duce the degrees of heat necessary to support the phenomina of the hot springs. No sulphuric * Having thrust a stick down into the crater of one of the hot springs some distance up the hill, several drops of petro leum or naphtha rose and spread upon the surface, it ceased to rise after three or four attempts. acid [ i35] acid is present in this water; the springs may [1804 be supplied by the vapor of heated water ascend- *¦ ing from the Caverns where the heat is gener ated ; or the heat may be immediately applied to the bottom of an immense natural Caldron of rock contained in the bowels of the hill, from which as a reservoir the Springs may be supplied. Therm? at 8? p.m. 34? Extremes 320 -45° Therm? 340 Wind N.W. Cloudy — The state Tuesday 25'." of the heavens did not admit of any astronomi cal observations in the morning ; it cleared away before noon, so that we had a good meridian altitude of the Sun, which was scarcely over when the clouds overspread again the face of heaven, & it rained a part of the afternoon : the present being Christmas Day, we indulged the men with a holy-day, for which object they had hoarded up their rations of whisky, to be ex pended in merriment on this occasion, which terminated with inebriety but no ill consequence ensued. We amused ourselves with farther ex periments on the hot waters ; the conduct of the analysis being left to Doctor Hunter as a professed Chemist, the results will be hereafter given. Thermom? at 8h p.m. 44? Extremes 340 -5i° Therm 340. Wind N.W. clear, prepare for Wednesday 26'!' observation [ ^36 ] 1804 [ observation. Took the Sun's contacts in the December; morning hoping to get equal altitudes in the afternoon ; but as this is not always certain, I make it a rule to note down the Sun's altitude, so that the apparent time may be calculated ; and if the corresponding altitudes are taken after noon ; the calculation of the correction for change of declination during the interval is greatly facilitated by noting the altitudes. Before instruments were brought to their present state of perfection, the method hitherto in use was to be preferred ; but no reason can be assigned why we should not now adopt a mode equally correct, which saves half the labor, and more especially that by using the altitudes, we do not require that the Latitude should be previously known. This afternoon took the Altitude of the hill west of the camp by measurement of a base and two correct angles of elevation with the circle of reflection, and found it to be 300 feet, which is less than we had supposed : very steep hills are extremely imposing ; the ascent of the hill was not much more than double its perpen dicular height, i. e. about 700 feet of inclined plane and the angle at its base made by the summit with the horizon above 26? We had no favorable position to ascertain by the same means the height of the hill of the hot springs, but having been on the tops of both distinctly seen [ U7 ] seen from each other, we judge them to be of ;i8o4 equal elevation. [December In the morning between 10 and i ih made a set of Lunar observations, by taking twelve dis tances of the sun and moon's limbs : the moon being advanced within less than 6o° of the sun, appeared with a very faint light in presence of the sun's image altho' darkened considerably, and it required very particular attention to ob tain fine contacts, which are supposed to be very correct, altho' the eye remained greatly fatigued. — The afternoon being cloudy prevented taking the correspondent equal altitudes for the regu lation of the watch. Therm? at Sh p.m. 44? Extremes 340— 50? This morning being fine Doctor Hunter pre- Thursday 27* pared to make his long meditated excursion of 3 or 4 days into the mountains, which the un favorable state of the weather has hitherto pre vented : the therm? stood at 260 before sun rise, and the face ofthe hill and creek were shrouded in condensed vapor. After breakfast the Doctor set out with our Pilot and three of the people ; the rest were dispatched with loads of baggage to the river. Took a set of observations for equal altitudes, but we were again disappointed in ob taining the correspondent afternoon observations by the intervention of clouds ; the mornings' alti tudes of yesterday and this day will nevertheless be [ 138 ] 1804 1 be sufficient for the regulation of time by the December; watch and obtaining her rate of going. At noon had a very fine altitude of the Sun, which is the seventh observation for the Latitude of this place, and concludes our astronomical observa tions here, from whence will be deduced (it is hoped) with sufficient precision the Latitude and Longitude of this point of Louisiana, ren dered remarkable by the presence of so great a natural curiosity as the Hot-springs. The mean of the seven observations whose respective re sults were all very near to each other makes the Latitude of the Hot-spring N° 3 to be 340 30' 5 9". 8 2. This may be farther corrected by in troducing the deviation in north polar distance, occasioned by the nutation of the Earth's axis ; this being common to the Sun and to all the Stars ought not to be neglected when great pre cision is required. The series of observations above mentioned being reduced to the 21st De cember as the mean or middle time of the series; it will be found that the Sun's Right ascension was then 9 signs and the place of the moon's ascending node 9 signs 27 degrees ; from whence results a correction in the Sun's declination of —4". 34 which quantity being ad ditive to the Latitude deduced, gives for the true Latitude 340 31' 4". 16. The Longitude will be calculated at leisure & will be hereafter noticed. After [ 139 J After the Doctor set out I amused myself [1804 with pursuing experiments on the analysis of [December the hot waters &c — Thermometer at Sh p.m. 3 8° Extremes 26°-45° Therm? 340 Wind S.W. — Cloudy — ap- Friday 28'? pearance of rain or snow — Dispatched six of our people with loads to the river Camp : after breakfast set out upon a geographical tour round the Hill of the hot-springs ; young M? Hunter with one of the people and my negro servant attended: in the course of this survey there was no indication of any hot spring but those of which we have already spoken, all lying on the same side ofthe hill within a space of 70 perches as has been already noted: Every new inspec tion of those Curious springs brings forth some addition to the limited knowledge we have ac quired of them ; we find it now pretty evident that most of the springs if not all have flowed from a more elevated part ofthe hill than at pre sent ; and the perpetual accumulations of Calca reous matter confining the sources have probably elevated them to nearly the level of the grand recervoir within the bowels of the hill ; during this process the calcareous rock has been formed which we now see attached to the side of the hill; at length however the issues ofthe waters have become so obstructed and probably the level of the water in the grand recervoir so elevated, that [ Ho ] 1804 1 that by the superincumbent pressure of the December; waters, new passages have been forced in lower situations: it is evident that the springs which now break forth along the margin of the Creek, cannot be supposed to have flowed for a long time (comparatively) in their present situation ; the formation of calcareous rock created by the springs in their actual position, resembling only small excrescences growing from the base of considerable precipices, is a proof of what we have advanced : some of those new springs have formed small flats of 20 to 30 feet extent; in general they have formed little elevations of 5 to 6 feet perpendicular, with a glacis of 10 or 1 5 feet terminated by a precipitate fall into the creek. Those small accumulations when com pared with the great mass of rock spreading along the face of the hill to the perpendicular height of one hundred feet, are certainly a de monstrative proof of the recent existence ofthe inferior springs : an ingenious observer of Na ture, by some years attention might determine the quantity of calcareous matter precipitated in a given time from some one spring, which would furnish us with a datum, from whence to form a proximate calculation of the antiquity ofthe Springs. We have already noticed that some springs still exist even at the very limit which separates the calcareous region from the primitive hill ; their temperature is similar to those [ HI ] those below, they are all feeble and are soon lost ; l8°4 upon the face ofthe hill, & perhaps contribute *- to augment the inferior springs. We found the circuit of this hill to be about 3 l/s miles, measuring round its base as correctly as the uneven surface would permit : altho' this hill when seen from the hill to the west of the valley appears to represent a handsome conical monticule in an insulated situation, yet our geo graphical survey discovered to us that it is con nected in the rear by a very narrow ridge, with a chain of inferior hills dividing the Creek of the hot-springs from a branch of the Calfat. We find invariably the upper half of the hills to be filled up with the hardest flinty rocks, with an admixture of the hardest freestone; much of both particularly the first have rolled down & are found all the way to the base: At the foot of those hills & at some elevation are found im mense strata of schistus, some of a yellowish color, which forms by decomposition an earth of the same color, presenting at first view the appearance of clay, but it is greatly deficient in tenacity: The base of the hills and the vallies contiguous to the hot-spring hill seem chiefly occupied by a bluish black Schistus, altho' there be veins of the siliceous genus crossing this last in several places : there is no doubt that a manu facture of Alumn might be established hereupon an immense scale; the schistus under foot is frequently [ H2 ] 1804 1 frequently found in a state ready to yield alumn, December; as appears from the astringent and sweet taste it possesses. After our return to Camp, I determined to have another microscopic examination of the green matter and hot water before leaving finally this place. I procured some of the green mat ter of a very beautiful kind, resembling a moss whose fibres were more than half an inch in length; a film of the same green matter was spread upon a calcareous base, & from the film sprung the fibres representing a beautiful vege tation completely immersed in water of 1300 temperature ; This moss (if it shall be found to be vegetable) was brought to this state of per fection by growing in a small natural bason con taining some depth of water in a state of com parative repose, communicating freely with one of the springs, but no current passed thro' it. This moss sparkled before the microscope with innumerable nodules of lime, some part of which seemed to be beautifully chrystalized, and altho' the fine green color of the moss was visi ble thro' the lime, yet it was thereby so much concealed, that it was impossible to decide whether it possessed the true organic structure of a vegetable ; I incline however now to believe that the green matter is a true vegetable, not only from its great resemblance to some of the mosses particularly the Byssi, but also from the discovery [ H3 J discovery I have just made that this moss is the ^804 residence of animal life : after frequent search [December I at length discovered a very minute shell-fish of the bi-valve kind inhabiting this moss ; its shape is nearly that of the fresh water muscle ; the color of the shell is greyish brown with certain spots of a slight purplish appearance ; when the animal is undisturbed it opens its shell & thrusts out four legs very transparent, and articulated like those of a quadruped ; the ex tremities ofthe forelegs are veryslender & sharp, but those of the hind legs somewhat broader as if armed with minute toes ; from the extremity of each shell, issues 3 or 4 forked hairs, which the animal seems to have the power of moving; the forelegs seem formed for making incisions into the moss for the purpose of procuring ac cess to the juices ofthe living plant, upon which no doubt it feeds, and I think it highly probable that the animal is provided with a proboscis, tho' I was unable to discover it; the hind legs seem well adapted for propelling the animal in its progress over the moss or thro' the water. A considerable quantity of snow fell while we were engaged on the survey and after our return. Thermometer at Sh p.m. 300 Extremes 3O0-34° — at %h p.m. 32? Therm? 25? Wind at N.W. strong all night, Saturday 29,.h some flying clouds appear in the morning. — Got the [ H4 ] 1804 1 the people ready with their loads between 9 & December; j Qh a m and j set out with them myself for the river camp ; it began to snow at 10 o'clock, but did not continue ; the weather continued cloudy, but the exercize of walking rendered the tem perature (tho' cold) very agreeable ; the low grounds thro' which we passed were a little watery, in consequence of the rains which had fallen, but not more so, than when we first walked out to the hot springs ; the soil of the flat lands under the stratum of vegetable mould was chiefly yellowish and was evidently decom posed schistus, of which there were immense beds in every stage of its progress from the hard stone recently uncovered, partially decomposed and down to the yellowish earth apparently ho- mogenious. The covering of vegetable mould between the hills and the river is in most places sufficiently thick to constitute a good soil, being from 4 to 6 inches, and it is the opinion of the people upon the Washita that wheat would grow here to great perfection. Altho' the higher hills (300 to 600 feet) are very rocky, yet the inferior hills and sloping bases of the first are generally clothed with a soil of a middling quality, the natural productions are sufficiently luxuriant, consisting chiefly of black and red oak inter mixed with a variety of other woods and a con siderable undergrowth ; and even on those rocky hills, Nature has bestowed a soil which will reward [ HS } reward the future labors of the industrious Vi- ;i8o4 gneron : Nature herself unaided by man has al- [December ready planted on them three or four species of Vines, which are said to produce annually an exuberance of excellent grapes. A great variety of plants, some of which in their season, I am informed produce flowers highly ornamental, would probably reward the researches of the Botanist. On the way into the river I took the courses by compass and the distances by time ; when the Doctor comes with the last party I have ap pointed two good hands to chain the same dis tances, to be noted down by young M? Hunter — At 8h p.m. the therm? was down at 24? — the wind blew strong all the afternoon, but fell calm by night. I omitted to observe in its proper place that having observed from the bottom of one of the hot springs a frequent ebulition of gas, we should have collected some for examination, but no ap paratus was provided for the purpose, it was so unfortunate that we had not even a funnel at the Springs, which with a bottle might have suf ficed : it was not hydrogen, because I failed in several attempts to inflame it by a lighted torch : there can be no doubt of its being Carbonic acid, having always found indications of an excess of a weak acid, by which the lime and iron were disolved in the water. With respect to the quan tity [ H6 ] 1804 1 tity of hot water delivered by the springs I made December J the following rough estimate. — There are four principal springs, two of inferior note, one ris ing out of the gravel and a number of drippings and drainings all issuing from the margin or from under the rock which overhangs the creek. Of the four first mentioned, three deliver nearly equal quantities, but one (N? 1) the most con siderable of all and the hottest delivers about five times as much as one of the other three, the 2 of inferior note may be equal to one, and all the drippings & small springs are probably underrated at double the quantity of one of the three; that is, taking all together, the whole will amount to a quantity equal to eleven times the water delivered by the standard spring, which was the only one commodiously situated for mea surement ; I neglect the springs up the hill, be cause it is probable that what is not evaporated unites with the springs below. We found a Kettle containing eleven quarts was filled by the stand ard Spring in eleven seconds ; Hence the whole quantity of hot water delivered by all the springs issuing visibly from the base of the hill may amount in one minute to 165 gallons and in 24 hours to 3771 y, Hhds of 63 gallons each, which is equal to a handsome brook and might work an over-shot mill. In cool weather condensed vapor is seen arising out of the gravel bed of the Creek from springs which cannot be taken into the [ H7 ] the account; during summer and fall I am in- J 1804 formed the Creek receives little or no water, but [December what is supplied by the hot-springs, at those sea sons probably many small springs may be seen rising out of the bed of the Creek, which are now invisible ; during that time the Creek itself is a hot bath, too hot indeed near the springs, so that a person may chuse the temperature most agreeable to himself, by selecting a natural bason nearer to or farther from the principal springs ; at 3 or 4 miles below the springs, the water is tepid and unpleasant to drink. Therm? in air g° in river water 3 6° — wind Sunday 30?^ very light at N.W. This morning & the night past are the coldest we have experienced this winter. The People set off very early to bring in Doctor Hunter's baggage from the springs. Employed myself in bringing up my journals &c — The Doctor arrived with the people about 3?* p.m. — The Sky was most serenely clear this day, its color over head was that of the darkest prussian blue and during last night the stars shone with uncommon lusture. People have conceived an idea that they see more stars here and at the hot springs than any where else; which idea arises from the extreme transpar ency of the atmosphere, which causes the stars to strike the eye with greater brightness, and no doubt stars of inferior magnitude will be seen in a pure [ 148 ] 1804 | pure sky which are invisible in an ordinary one. December/ ^his evening some light clouds appeared about the sun-setting, which is an indication of change of weather ; we now anxiously expect rain, as we wait only for the first rise of the river to go down with safety over the falls and rapids ; 5 or 6 feet perpendicular will be sufficient. At night the atmosphere became again extremely bright — at Sh p.m. the therm? was at 21? Extremes 9?— 3 8° — It became very cold at 10? p.m. Monday 31? Therm? in air 290 in river water 360 — Wind S.E. During the night the Weather altered greatly ; the temperature was much molified and the stars disappeared ; in the morning one general cloud enclosed the horizon, and from the damp penetrating chilliness of the morning we look for snow : ordered setting poles to be made & every thing to be prepared for the first favorable moment to depart. The day continued cloudy, & in the afternoon the therm? having risen to 3 2° it began to snow and continued all day and part of the night : Examined some of the green moss from the hot-springs, with a view to shew Doctor Hunter one ofthe Bivalved testaceous animals, found a large one which un der the microscope measured */0 of an inch in length by the micrometer. 1805 ] 5 J January l Tuesday 1? j This morning the thermometer was at 2 6° — It [ H9 ] It had ceased snowing in the night but recom- [1805 menced after day light ; the snow was sounded [January and found in most places to be from 11 to 13 inches ; we are in hopes that the melting of this snow united to the rain which will probably accompany the thaw, will be sufficient to take us down in safety ; being desireous however of ascertaining what aid we had to expect from the snow, I made the following experiment — I took a Cylindric Kettle 1 o inches deep & hav ing by sounding found a flat piece of snow of the same depth, I pressed down the Kettle bot tom upwards perpendicularly to the ground ; I was thus enabled to return the Kettle completely filled with its column of snow, and having thawed it gradually to the temperature of 330 I found the water to measure exactly 1.07 inches, that is, 9.346 inches of snow will yield one inch of water in the circumstances above mentioned ; it is observable that the snow fell lightly without wind, it is therefore probable that the proportion of ten to one may be adopted as a general standard to be varied according to circumstances. The snow continued frozen all day, and the therm? at 3!1 p.m. did not fall below the freezing point and in the evening at 8!1 p.m. it was fallen to 1 8° Thermometer in air 6? in river water 3 2? Wednesday 2* Calm — The night proved extremely cold ; large [ '5° ] 1805 [ large fires with all the covering that could be January; conveniently used were necessary to render our situation comfortable in a bad tent negligently chosen at New Orleans. The sun arose bright and shone with splendor upon the surface of the snow which covered every object upon the ground ; the river alone presented a bleak ap pearance with a condensed vapor floating upon its surface ; the temperature of the river was at the freezing point ; a kettle of water being brought up to Camp and placed on the ground four feet from a large fire, its surface began im mediately to shoot into icy chrystalizations. — Our hunters are tolerably successful, bringing in every day abundance of Venison and Turkies. — The day became pleasant and agreeable, the temperature at 3^ p.m. being 45? and at Sh p.m. the thermometer fell to 32° Thursday 3* Thermometer in air 22? in river water 340 — wind moderate at N.W. The atmosphere be came cloudy in the night and we looked confi dently for a change of weather, but this morning it has become serene and fine ; the vicissitudes of the weather have of late been frequent, a change is now extremely desireable but the sea son seems obstinately bent against all change. The day became pleasant and of an agreeable temperature, the thermometer at 3!1 p.m. being at 480 and at 8h in the evening 30? Thermometer [ i5i ] Thermometer in air 2 2° in river water 3 6° — ["1805 Calm — during the night it became cloudy, not { Ian,uary th a star was to be seen but before morning it n ay 4" cleared away & became perfectly serene and cloudless. The day proved fine, the sky over head of a bright but deep prusian blue, the tem perature mild, the thermometer at 31? p.m. be ing up to 500 In the afternoon the Doctor made an excursion upon the river to examine some of the neighbouring hills : I continued to bring up and arrange my Journals. The evening was fine, the thermometer at 8^ p.m. was at 32° — no favorable appearance yet of rain to raise the river ; the snow is disappearing without produ cing any beneficial effect : we continue here as prisoners, waiting for what is usually called bad weather, to bear us away from this place. Thermometer in air 220 in river water 36? Saturday 5'.h Wind N.W. The atmosphere became cloudy in the night, but was perfectly serene and clear at day-break, so that we have no near prospect of our departure. The day became fine and seemed to invite us to recommence astronomical obser vations, and altho' a sufficient series had been made both for Latitude and longitude at the hot-springs connected by survey with this place, yet we began a new series. Equal altitudes of the sun were taken before and after noon ; three distances of the moon and sun's limbs were [ 152] 1805 1 were taken near 2h p.m. and in the evening January/ three distances of the moon's west limb from Aldebaran were taken between 6 & 7h p.m. — a greater number would have been taken, but in the first case the Sun got behind some trees and in the second case, the moon was in a simi lar situation, if tomorrow proves fine we shall prosecute the same operations to more advan tage, having ordered several trees to be cut down which stood in the way — Wind S.E. The day continued fine and of a mild tem perature; some few clouds keep up our hopes of a change — Thermometer at 8h p.m. 280 — Extremes 22°-55° Sunday 6t.h Thermometer before sun-rise in air 2 8? in river water 38? This morning proved cloudy contrary to expectation and revived our hopes of a change of weather favorable to our descent : This state ofthe atmosphere continued all day ; from time to time there was a little light rain or mist. The rain increased a little after dark, but still very light : the snow seems now melted away to about one fifth or sixth ofthe original quantity ; we began to apprehend that the whole would disappear without any influence upon the river, but now it has risen about 1 2 inches: Thermom eter at Sh p.m. 44? Extremes 28°-5o° Monday 7?.h Thermometer in air 64? in river water 44? Last [ i53] Last night it rained very lightly by intervals, so [1805 little indeed that a cylindric vessel placed to re- [January ceive it, did not contain enough to be measured. During the night the temperature was extremely warm, and the weather continues to be cloudy, but not very dark, so that our prospect of rain is not very flattering ; the river has nevertheless risen 18 inches since last night, which has no doubt been caused by the melting of the snows. The sun shews himself at intervals between the clouds : it became so warm that we dined abroad under the shade of lofty pine and oak trees, upon the wild game of the forest and the river, such as Venison, wild Turkey, bear, Cygnet &c : The thermometer at the hour of dinner was at 750 which at this season produces the sensation of a summer's sun of 900; the river continues to rise, and we have taken the resolution to wait the issue of the present state of the weather and to set out at all events ; if there be not water enough to go over the falls with safety by the oar, we shall pass along by letting ourselves down by the help of a rope, step by step, until the danger is passed. Thermometer at Sh p.m. 3 8° Extremes 38°-78? In the evening the river con tinues to rise. Thermometer in air 28? in river water 46? Tuesday 8?h Last night was cloudy, moist and cold, the river rose considerably in the night ; we suppose it to be [ i54] 1805 *[ be about 6 feet perpendicular, higher than the January/ ievel Qf the river when we came up, we now think ourselves secure of going down with speed and safety; orders were therefore given to em bark our baggage and prepare for departing. We had the satisfaction of taking with us an abun dance of fresh provision chiefly venison, to supply us to the Post of the Washita. We accordingly set off between 9 & I o o'clock and landed a little below upon the opposite shore and went to examine the first rapids, which we found to be very safe ; we re-embarked, and by directing our course between the breakers, passed along with the rapidity of an arrow in perfect secur ity : we continued moving with great rapidity on the face of the current, but thought it pru dent to land and view a second rapid, and after exploring the best passage we passed down in perfect safety. We got over the great ' Chutes ' about 1 o'clock, two of our oars having been violently dashed overboard by the willows, the Pilot thinking it safest to keep the eastern shore on board ; we halted below and regained our oars by sending up the Canoe. There we dined and went on & stopped a little below to examine the flinty promontory already noticed on the 3 d December. We took some specimens ofthe rock resembling the Turkey oil-stone : it appears to me to be too hard ; I remarked that the strata of < [ i55 ] of this chain ran perpendicularly nearly East and [1805 West, crossed by fissures at right angles 5, 6 to [January 8 feet apart ; the laminae were from % to 4 or 5 inches thick. About a league below on the same side, landed at Whetstone hill and took several specimens; this projecting hill consists of a mass of greyish blue schistus of consider able hardness and about 20 feet perpendicular; near the top, it was in a state of progression towards decomposition, being there extremely crumbly and paft of it changing into a dirty yellowish color : the laminae were in general perpendicular, but not regularly so, and from y to 2 inches in thickness, but did not split asunder with an even surface: went on and en camped about ten leagues below Ellis' Camp. Thermometer at 8?1 p.m. 37? Extremes 280— 370 It rained lightly after we encamped, which ren dered the flat ground of our encampment very wet and the wood difficult to burn. Thermometer in air 420, in river water 440 Wednesday 9* — The river fallen about six inches — During the night it rained by intervals, but very lightly, the air was moist and cold, the soil here imme diately under the vegetable stratum is yellow ish and of little consistency, resembling greatly the understratum observed near the hot springs, produced probably by the same cause, the de composition of schistus. Last evening ordered provisions [ '56 1 , 1805 1 provisions to be dressed for the day, to save the January; tjme of landing during the day for that purpose; about two miles below our Camp landed to ex amine some freestone and blue slate in sight of ' Bayou de la Prairie de Champignole ' men tioned the 2d Dec? The freestone of which we took specimens, seems proper for grindstones, scythe-stones &c; but the blue slate as it is called is only bluish schistus, hard & brittle ; and not proper for the roofing of houses ; we have not seen slate good for that purpose except some discovered on one of the Doctor's excur sions on the Bayou Calfat. Much game on the river, such as Geese, ducks, swans &c ; they con tinue equally wild and difficult of approach as before, so that we derive little benefit from that source. The day continued dark, cloudy & cold with the wind at North ; at i ih a.m. it began to snow and hail with rain by intervals : we observed no thing this day meriting remark, different from what we saw on our way up. Towards evening it began to clear away ; and soon after we en camped the sky became serene. By the Pilot's estimation we made this day nineteen leagues, which probably do not exceed forty miles : we passed five of our night encampments on the way up. Encamped a league above ' Cache a Macon' — slept a little higher on the 27^ Novem? Ther mometer at 8h p.m. 240, Extremes 24°-42° at 3h [ *S7 ] 2h p.m. 360 The moon and stars shone with ("1805 uncommon lusture. [January Thermometer in air 230, in river water 42° — Thursday io* river fallen 7 inches. The face of the heavens changed much in the night, it became extremely dark and cloudy, and this morning with the wind at north ; it is cold, damp and penetrating ; the river fallen seven inches during the night. After setting out, the clouds began to dissipate & the sun to shew himself, a very agreeable sight to travellers in cold & unpleasant weather ; it con tinued never-the-less cold all day, the sun not possessing power to soften the rigorous cold which prevailed, the thermometer not rising above the freezing point from morning until night. We made this day by the Pilots account fourteen leagues and encamped at 'auges d'Ar- clon ' ( Arclon's troughs) three leagues below the little misouri ; slept near this place on the 23d november : it appears by reference to the Jour nal, that we were thirteen days in going up from this place to Ellis' Camp, which has required but three broken days to come down, having made several stops to examine certain objects on our way down, and to day we made a more considerable delay at the Camp of a M. Le Fevre. This was an intelligent man, a native of the Illinois, now residing at the Arcansas; he is come here with some Delaware and other Indians [ 158 ] 1805 | Indians whom he has fitted out with goods, and January] reCeives peltry, fur &c at a stipulated price, as it is brought in by the hunters. This gentleman informs us that a considerable party ofthe Osages from the Arcansa river have made an excursion round by the prairies towards the red river, and down the little misouri as low as the ' fourche d' Antoine', and there meeting with a small party of Cherokees, are supposed to have killed four of their number & others are missing ; Three Americans and ten Chicasaws went a hunting into that quarter, who may also have been in danger, those Ozages being no respecters of per sons. M. Le Fevre possesses considerable know ledge of the interior of the Country ; he con firms the accounts we have already obtained that the hills or mountains which give birth to the various sources of this little river are in a manner insulated ; that is, they are entirely shut in and enclosed by the immense planes or prai ries which extend beyond the red river to the South & beyond the Missouri (or at least some of its branches) to the north and range along the eastern base of the great chain or dividing ridge, commonly known by the name of the sand hills, which separate the waters of the Mis sisippi from those which fall into the western pacific ocean : The breadth of this great plane is not well ascertained, it is said by some to be at certain parts or in certain directions not less than [ ^59] than two hundred leagues, but I believe it is [1805 agreed by all that have a knowledge of the [January Western Country, that the mean breadth is at least two thirds of this quantity ; a branch of the Misouri called the river platte or shallow river is said to take its rise so far south, as to derive its first waters from the neighbourhood of the sources of the Red and Arcansa rivers. By the expression planes or prairies in this place is not to be understood a dead flat resembling certain savannahs, whose soil is stiff and impene trable, often under water & bearing only a coarse grass resembling reeds ; very far different are the western Prairies, which expression signifys only a country without timber: Those Prairies are neither flat nor hilly, but undulating into gently swelling lawns and expanding into spacious val lies in the center of which is always found a little timber growing upon the banks of brooks and rivulets of the finest water, the whole of those prairies is represented to be composed of the richest and most fertile soil ; the most luxu riant & succulent herbage covers the surface of the Earth interspersed with millions of flowers and flowering shrubs of the most ornamental and adorning kinds : Those who have viewed only a skirt of those prairies, speak of them with a degree of enthusiasm as if it was only there that Nature was to be found in a state truely perfect ; they declare that the fertility and beauty of [ i6o] 1805 [ of the rising grounds, the extreme richness of January; ^g Vallies, the coolness and excellent quality of the waters found in every valley, the Salu brity ofthe atmosphere and above all the gran deur and Majesty of the enchanting landscape which this Country presents, inspires the Soul with sensations not to be felt in any other region of the Globe. This Paradise is now very thinly inhabited by a few tribes of savages and by im mense herds of Wild Cattle (Bison) which peo ple those countries ; the Cattle perform regular migrations according to the seasons, from south to north, and from the planes to the mountains ; and in due time taught by their instincts take a retrograde direction : those tribes move in the rear of y? Herds and pick up stragglers & such as lag behind, which they kill with the bow and arrow for their subsistence ; should it be found that of this rich and desireable Country there is 500 miles square, and from report, there is prob ably much more, the whole of it being cultiva ble, it will admit of the fullest population, and will at a future day vie with the best cultivated & most populous countries on the Globe : in this particular the province of Holland exceeds perhaps all others ; there, one million of acres support two millions of Inhabitants; but as Mar itime Countries enjoy superior advantages re specting population, by the interchange of their manufactures for the necessaries of life, which last [ 161 ] last in an inland country must be totally drawn f 1805 from the product of the proper soil, we shall [Jan"ary suppose this new Country to be populated in the proportion of one tenth only of that of Holland, in which case it will be capable of subsisting a nation composed of twenty six millions of Souls. This Country is not exposed to be rav aged by those sudden and impetuous deluges of rain which in most hot countries and even in the Missisippi Territory, do sometimes tear up & sweep away with irresistible fury the crop and the soil together; on the contrary, rain is said to become more rare in proportion as the great chain of mountains is approached, and it would seem that within the sphere of attraction of those elevated chains little or no rain falls upon the adjoining planes ; this relation is the more credible, as in that respect our new Coun try may resemble other flat or comparatively low countries similarly situated, such as the Country lying between the Andes and the Western paci fic : the planes are supplied with nightly dews so extremely abundant as to have the effect of refreshing showers of rain, and the spacious vallies which are extremely level may with fa cility be watered by the rills & brooks which are never absent from those situations : such is the description of the better known country ly ing to the south of the red river, from Nacok- doches towards Sf Antonio in the province of Texas : [ '62 ] 1805 \ Texas:* the richest crops are said to be pro- January J chjced there without rain, but agriculture in that quarter is at low ebb ; the small quantities of maize furnished by the Country, is said to be produced without cultivation, a rude opening is made in the earth just sufficient to deposit the grain at the distance of four or five feet in irregular squares, and the rest is left to nature ; the soil is naturally tender, spongy and rich, & seems always to retain humidity sufficient with the bounteous dews of heaven to bring the crops to maturity. The red and Arcansa rivers whose Courses are very long pass thro' portions of this fine Coun try, they are both navigable to an unknown dis tance by boats of proper construction ; the Ar cansa river is however understood to have greatly the advantage over its neighbour with respect to the facility of Navigation : some difficult places are met with in the red river below the Nakitosh, after which it is good for 150 leagues (probably the computed leagues of the Coun try of nearly 2 miles each) there the Voyager meets with a very serious obstacle, viz the com mencement of the Raft as it is called, that is, a natural covering which conceals the whole river for an extent of 1 7 leagues continually aug menting by the drift wood brought down by * The x is pronounced gutturally, precisely in the same tone as the Scotch pronounce the gh in night, light &c every [ i63 ] every considerable fresh; this covering which [1805 for a time was only drift wood, supports at this [January time a vegetation of every thing abounding in the neighbouring forest, not excepting trees of considerable size, & the river may be frequently passed without any knowledge of its existence; it is said that the annual inundation is opening for itself a new passage thro' the low grounds near the hills, but it must be a long time be fore Nature unaided will dig out a passage suffi cient for the reception of the waters of the red river ; about 50 leagues above the natural bridge is the residence of the Cadeaux or Cadadoquis Nation, of whose good qualities we have already spoken; the Inhabitants estimate the Post of Nakitosh to be half way between New Orleans and the Cadeaux Nation: above this point the red river is said to be embarrassed by many rapids falls and shallows, none of which are said to be met with in the Arcansa river as high as it is known, except in the very lowest state of its waters; the navigation is reported to be safe and agreeable, the lands on either side are of the best quality & well watered with springs, brooks & rivulets, & many situations proper for mill-seats; from the description it would seem, there is along this river a regular grada tion of hill and Dale presenting their extrem ities to the river ; the hills are gently swelling eminencies and the Dales are spacious Vales with living [ '64] 1805 1 living water meandering thro' them: the forests January j consist of handsome lofty trees, & chiefly what is called open woods, without cane-brake or much underwood ; the quality of its lands is sup posed much superior to that of the red river, until it ascends to the Prairie Country, where the lands are probably very similar. About 200 leagues up the arcansa, is an interesting place called the salt Prairie, there is a considerable fork of the river there, and a kind of Savannah where the salt water is continually oozing out & spreading over the surface of a plane ; during the hot dry Summer Season, the salt may be raked up into large heaps ; a natural crust of a hand- breadth in thickness is formed when the dry season prevails ; this place is not often approached on account of the danger from the Ozage In dians ; much less do the White hunters venture to ascend higher where it is generally believed that silver is to be found. We have been also informed that high up the arcansa river, salt is to be found in form of a Solid rock, & may be dug out with the Crow-bar. The waters of the Arcansa like those of the red river, are not potable during their low state; they are both charged highly with a reddish earth or marl and are also extremely brackish ; this inconven ience is not greatly felt upon the Arcansa, where springs, rills & brooks of the finest fresh water are so frequent ; the red river I believe is not so [ i65] so favorably situated. Every account seems to f 1805 demonstrate that immense natural magazines of I Januarv % salt must exist in the great chain of mountains to the westward, all rivers flowing from those mountains during the dry season retain a strong impregnation of salt, until that property becomes imperceptible by the accession of the fresh wa ters of many other rivers. — The great western prairies, besides the herds of wild Cattle (Bison commonly called Buffalo), are also stocked with vast numbers of a species of wild goat, (not re sembling the domestic goat) extremely swift of foot; as the description given of this goat has not been very perfect, I have supposed from its swiftness, it might be the antelope ; or it may possibly be a goat which has escaped from the Spanish settlements of new Mexico: I have con versed with a Canadian who has been much with the Indians to the westward, this man told me that he had seen great flocks of an wool-bear ing animal larger than common sheep; the Wool is much mixed with hair. This is probably the same animal which has been described & of which a plate has been given in the medical re pository of New York. The Canadian pretends also to have seen an unicorn ; the single horn he says rises out of the forehead & curls back, according to his description so as to convey the idea of the fossil Cornu Ammonis; this man says he has travelled beyond the great dividing ridge [.'66] 1805 1 ridge so far as to have seen a large river flow- January j mg to the westward; the great dividing moun tain is so lofty that it requires two days to ascend,^ from its base to its top, other ranges of inferior mountains lie before and behind it; they are all very rocky & sandy, large lakes and vallies lie between the mountains; some of the lakes are so large as to contain considerable islands, and rivers flow from some of them : great num bers of fossil bones of very large dimentions are seen among the mountains, which the Canadian supposed to be of the Elephant ; he does not pre tend to have seen any of the precious metals, but has seen a mineral which he supposed might yield Copper: from the top ofthe high moun tain, the view is bounded by a curve as upon the ocean and extends over the most beautiful prai ries which seem to be unbounded particularly to the East ; the finest of the lands he has seen are on the Misouri, no other can compare in point of richness and fertility with those of that river. This Canadian as well as M. Le Fevre say that the Osages of the tribe of white hairs in the month of December (early in the month), plun- derecLall the white hunters and traders upon the arcansa river. All the old french hunters agree in accusing the Osages of being extremely faith less, particularly those on the arcansa, the others they say are but very little more to be depended upon ; [ '67 ] upon; they pretend to make peace & enter into ;i8os terms of amity, but on the first favorable occa- [January sion, they rob, plunder and even kill without hezitation, The other indian tribes speak of them with great abhorrence, and say they are a bar barous uncivilized race. The different nations who hunt in their neighbourhood, have been concerting plans for their destruction. M. Le Fevre informs me that the Nation ofthe arcansas always waging a defensive war with the Osages, propose sending in the spring of the year a deputation of three Chiefs to the Government of the United States. They say that the Country from the Washita river on the south to the river S? Francis on the north is their property, that they propose to say to the Gov ernment of the U. S. "We will relinquish to " your people all our lands to the North of the "arcansa river, on the white river and on the "river S? Francis; we will also relinquish our "lands upon the missisippi lying between the " rivers arcansa and Washita to an extent west- " erly far beyond any settlements which have " been attempted by the white people, the lim- " its of which we will ascertain ; but we request " that the powerful arm of the U. S. will de- " fend us their children in the possession of the " remainder of our hunting grounds, lying be- " tween the Arcansa and Washita rivers." — Thermometer at 81? p.m. 190, Extremes 190- 3 2° [ '68 ] 1805 1 3 2° The Moon & Stars shine with uncommon Januaryf splendor. Friday n'!1 Thermometer in air n°, in river water 39? River fallen 4^ inches. Wind moderate at North. The morning is fine, the sky perfectly serene, but the air very cold and penetrating : passed the petit ecor a Fabri, the osier which grows abundantly upon the beaches above is not seen any lower upon this river, and at this place we begin to see the small tree called ' Charnier ' which grows only at the water side, and is to be seen all the way down the Washita below this place, the Latitude here is about 330 40' which is the limit Nature seems to have placed to those two vegetables, one on the north & the other to the south. I have already remarked in my Journal of the 17^ November that we saw no long moss (Tilandsia) above Latitude 33? & conjectured that Nature had limited its vegetation to that parallel; having this circumstance in my recol lection, I asked M. Le fevre for information re specting its existence at the Arcansa settlement, which is known to be not far beyond 33° of Latitude ; he informed me that about ten miles to the south of their settlement the growth of the Tilandsia is limited, & that so curiously as if a line had been drawn East and West for the purpose, as it ceases all at once & not by degrees ; hence [ '69] hence it would appear that Nature herself has ;i8os marked with a distinguishing feature the line [JanuaI7 which Congress has thought proper to draw between the territories of Orleans and of Lou isiana. It is a question of curiosity at what Lat itude the limit of the Tilansia is found in the atlantic states, and also the Cypress, which last upon this small river is not found higher than 340 of latitude, it is believed to be much higher on the Missisippi : our maps represent a Cypress swamp on the confines of the states of Mary land & Delawar, in Latitude 38°^ at the sources of Pocomock River. Q^ Is it the same species of Cypress which is found in the Carolinas, Mis sisippi Territory &c ? The weather continued clear & very cold all day, we landed at the Cadaux path to make a fire and dine, the Thermometer at 3^ p.m. 320 and at Sh p.m. it fell to 260 — Encamped iy league below 'petite pointe coupee', being nearly the same place where we found the latitude on the 2is.' November to be 33° 29' 29" ; having made by the pilot's reckoning about 1 5 leagues ; we stopped twice to day, which has retarded us nearly two hours; our rate of going has been about 2y of those leagues p? hour. Thermometer in air 20°, in river water 400 Saturday 12th — river risen an inch. Much vapor ascending from the river. Part of the night was cloudy and [ 1 70 ] • 1805 1 and this morning the heavens are not entirely January; cloudless, we therefore expect an approaching change of weather. The air is damp and pene trating so that it continues yet very cold on board the boat; as the day advanced, it proved more cloudy and disagreeable and altho' at 3!" p. m. the thermometer was found at 43°, the sensation of cold to the human body was greater than in a dry air at 22° — the face of the heavens was overspread with clouds & the atmosphere ex tremely moist : we made a good encampment in the evening called ' Campement des bignets ' (fritter camp) beingabout 1 8 ofthe Pilots leagues, tho' not much exceeding two days of our voyage up, about 37 or 38 miles by our own reckon ing ; we passed this place between breakfast and dinner on the 1 9th november. The Thermome ter at 8^ p. m. 30? Sunday i3'.h Thermometer in air 27° in river water 400 — river risen 1 y, inches — Calm. The morning is very fine and the atmosphere dry, conse quently the temperature not cold to the human body. These two mornings the river has risen a little, notwithstanding that we have been with out rain for several days past, & it will be re membered that the three first days of this voy age, the river was found each morning to be fallen ; this is to be accounted for by the boat gaining upon the velocity of the stream more in [ '7' ] in the day than it loses in the night. Since we [1805 have got below the rapids, the current is much [January more gentle and we make only two of the Pilots leagues p? hour, which does not exceed perhaps 4 english miles, it appears that in nine hours (one day's) rowing down we have made the same distance which we made in 1 3 hours coming up, the current at the time of our ascent being no thing, and the space passed over 36 miles, it will be found from these data that in each 24 hours we gain upon the Current 6y miles; we have therefore reason to conclude that we have got beyond the apex of the tide or wave occasioned by the fresh, & are descending along an inclined plane, but as we always encamp at night, it is not surprising that in the morning we find our selves in deeper water because the Apex of the tide is constantly endeavouring to overtake us, and in the morning we find ourselves on a more elevated part of the inclined plane, which we had left behind us the evening before. This morning no condensed vapor was visi ble on the surface of the river, yesterday it was considerable; hence it appears that 130 differ ence of temperature (the river being highest) does not condense vapor with sufficient rapidity to render it visible, altho' 200 are more than are necessary ; it must not be omitted to be men tioned that this morning the atmosphere was extremely dry, and therefore greedy of moisture, and [ '72 ] 1 805 } and yesterday it was very moist, and consequently January; not disposed to disolve water rapidly. The day proved cool, tho' not disagreeably so ; the wind in the afternoon N.E. and air moist: Made this day by the computed distances about 15^ leagues and encamped about one league below where we found our Latitude to be 330 1 3' 1 6". 5 on the 17th November, so that we have again completed two days voyage ascending in one descending. Thermometer at 8h p.m. 30? Ex tremes 27°-53° Monday i4t.h Thermometer in air 230, in river water 400 — river risen iy inch. Wind very light at N.W. The atmosphere is dry and the temperature to the human body seems not very cold ; there is a thin condensed vapor upon the surface of the river, the difference of temperature between the river water and air being this morning 1 7° ; yesterday the atmosphere being nearly in the same state 1 30 were insufficient to render the vapor visible. If our hygrometers were instru ments of a less dubious nature, and capable of indicating by a scale the absorbing, disolving or attracting power of the atmosphere for water, without being influenced by heat and cold we should then be able to determine a priori at what difference of temperature between water and air corresponding to a given degree of the hygrometer, ascending vapor will be visibly con densed. [ '73 ] densed. A green moss is found upon the branches [1805 of trees which are immersed in the waters ofthe [Januarv inundation, none of the same species appears in a more elevated situation ; when the waters sub side vegetation does not seem entirely at a stand in those mosses which are but a foot or two above the surface, they continue to be of a lively green & hang to the length of 5 or 6 inches : the vegetation of this moss must commence under water ; it may be of the same nature with the green matter deposited in fresh water con duits which has been examined by Priestly & others, & which here has arrived to a higher state of perfection from its free & open situa tion ; it is evident this moss must vegetate under the impulse of a considerable current. In the afternoon passed Latitude 330 and the Island of Mallet noticed in the Journal of the 1 5th of November : made about 1 9 leagues this day, being about 2^£ day's voyage ascending ; since we have got into the low alluvial Country the channel is narrower and the velocity of the current greater; we are now encamped where we passed in the afternoon of the 1 4*? Novem ber. The day continued fine and of an agreea ble temperature ; at 3!1 p.m. the thermometer was at 53°, at 8^ p.m. 320. An eclipse of the moon will take place this night after midnight, we prepare to observe it ; regulated the watch as near as possible to the apparent time at the setting [ '74] 1805 1 setting ofthe Sun; to-morrow we shall give an January / acCount of our observations, the sky is perfectly serene. Tuesday 15*1 Thermometer in air 30° in river water 40° — no vapor visible on the surface of the river : river risen 1 y2 inch — wind light at S.E. cloudy. Prepared last evening to observe the Eclipse of the Moon, with a very indifferent Spy-glass magnifying about 8 times. The commence ment of the Eclipse was not correctly noted, occasioned by the very strong effect of the pe numbra in our perfectly serene & clear sky, the moon not being far removed from the Zenith, which induced a belief that the Eclipse had actually commenced at I2h 32', this circum stance produced some inattention at the instant of the true commencement, which was supposed to have happened at 1 2h 40 ' ; but the com mencement of total darkness was observed with due attention, and is believed to be as correct as circumstances with our instruments would admit, and took place at 1 311 37'. It is believed that the uncertainty of the moment of observa tion did not exceed half a minute, I am rather disposed to say a quarter of a minute, for the transparency of the atmosphere was as perfect as can ever be expected in situations not more elevated than ours. We shall ascertain the error of the watch below at some known point, whose latitude [ ^75] latitude & position can be deduced by referrence [1805 to our geographical Journal, & this we shall [Januarv again perform on our arrival at the post of Washita, from which we shall gain the rate of the watch's going & the whole may be referred to the meridian of the Post & will serve to com pare with the results of our lunar observations made there on our way up. This morning the heavens are veiled by clouds ; during the night the thermometer was down to 28° with a pure serene sky and the at mosphere so dry that the cold was not very sen sible ; this morning with a higher temperature and moist air, it is cold and penetrating. We saw this morning the first long moss (Tilandsia) called generally by the french ' barbe espagnole (Spanish beard) on trees growing on the margin of the river about 2^ leagues (5 miles) above the 'Bayou des Butes.' At this time also we emerge from the alluvial country noticed in the former part of this Journal ; the banks are now of a good elevation, about 1 5 to 18 feet above the present level of the river & probably not liable to be inundated, whereas the alluvial lands we have just quitted, are subject to be overflowed from 8 to 1 2 feet ; we saw none of the green moss along the alluvial tract, which I much regret, having intended to take some spe cimens for examination, I am in doubt whether any of the same species grows below, as yet we [ '76 ] 1805 "I we do not see it at the ' bayou des butes.' The JanuaryJ 5un at last broke forth and we landed to take his altitude for the correction of the watch, the position was recognized by the mouth of a Creek, so that by a reference to the geographi cal Journal, we found that the Latitude of this point is 32° 49' 24", being the same which will correspond with N io° W 8h Sy' on the 1 4*?1 nov? ascending ; the Sun's dble Alt : lower limb was 66° 36' 45" Ind : err : +12' 20" taken at ioh 56' 24" a.m. — The day became cloudy in the afternoon and the thermometer rose to 63? which we consider as an indication of rain. We made this day nearly 1 5 computed leagues, being the eighth day from Ellis Camp, and are now encamped within five of those leagues from the post of the Washita, being about a mile above the place where we dined on the 1 2* Novem ber, Latitude then found was 32° 34' 47". The moon and stars shine with a mild lusture, no appearance of change in the weather notwith standing the increased temperature of the atmos phere. Thermometer at Sh p.m. 430. Wednesday 1 6?h ... in river water 410 — river risen i% inch : a . . . proceeding from atmospheric moisture, being very different from what we see arising out of the river under considerable differ ences of temperature — Arrived at the Post of Washita [ x77 } Washita about noon — The day proved very j 1805 fine and warm, the thermometer at 3*1 p.m. [January being at 650 and at Sh p.m. it remained at 6o° — Found all well at the post — no news of any importance — our people all in good health except one Soldier who has been a good deal incommoded by a dysentery ; but he is not in danger. Returned the hired boat. Thermometer in air 60° in river water 440 — Thursday 17? river risen one inch. Wind at S.W. — very clear during the night but cloudy this morning — made the following observation to correct the watch and ascertain her rate of going. At 8h 5 3' 7" Sun's apparent double altitude of the lower limb 36° 44' 45" Ind: err: + 12' 30". Employed the people in getting Mast and Oars [Friday 18'." for our large boat. Judging it of importance to ] & Saturday get to Natchez as soon as possible, I determined after being disappointed in procuring horses, to take the Canoe with one Soldier and my own Domestic, and push down to Catahoola, from whence there is a road to Concord about 30 miles across the . . . [page torn]. Set off about day-break, and arrived after night Sunday 20* at the lower settlement, about 20 computed leagues from the Post. Called at the house of an old hunter with whom I had conversed on my way [ '78] 1805 1 way up: This man informs me that at the place Januaryj Called the mine on the little Misouri, there is a smoke, which ascends perpetually from a particu lar place, and that the vapor is sometimes insup portable; the river or a branch of it passes over a bed of mineral, which from the description given is no doubt martial pyrites. In a creek or branch of the Washita called 'fourche a Luke'* there is found on the beaches and in the cliffs a great number of globular bodies, some as large or larger than the head of a man, which when broken, exhibit the appearance of Gold, Silver and precious Stones; this most prob ably is pyrites with chrystalized spar: also at the 'fourche des glaises a Paul',j" there is near to the river a cliff" full of hexagonal prisms termi nated by pyramids, which appear to grow out of the rock, some an inch in diameter & six to eight inches long: there are beds of pyrites found in several small creeks communicating with the river Washita : but it appears that . . . [page torn] indications on the Misouri were most considered, because some of the hunters actually worked upon it & sent a parcel of the ore to New Oreleans as observed above : it is the belief of the people here that the mineral con tained precious metal, but that the Spanish Gov ernment did not chuse that any mine should * 3 leagues above Ellis' Camp. f higher up the river than ' fourche a Luke.' be [ i79 ] be opened so near to the British Settlements, for f 1805 which reason an express prohibition was issued LJ against any farther work being done upon the mine ; since which time it has been no more spoken of. This man procured me some small roots & a few seeds of the patate a chevreuil ; he also took me to the next house where I saw a solitary tree of the ' bois d'Arc ' (bow-wood) or yellow wood, which was raised from a seed brought from the little Misouri ; I requested some large branches, but could only obtain from the Old Lady mistress of the place, two very small ones ; the fruit fallen before maturity lay upon the ground, some were of the size of a small orange, with a rind full of tubercles ; the color tho' in appearance faded, still retained a resemblance to pale gold : the tree in its native soil when loaded with its golden fruit (nearly as large as the Egg of an Ostrige), presents I am told the most splendid appearance ; its fo liage is of the finest deep green greatly resem bling the varnished foliage of the orange tree, and upon the whole no forest tree can com pare with it in respect . . . ental grandeur. The bark of the young tree which I saw resem bled in its texture externally the Dogwood bark; but its color is a reddish or brownish yellow ; the appearance of the wood recom mends it for trial as an article which may yield a yellow die : I hope to succeed in raising trees from [ '80 ] 1805 ) from the cuttings and a small Cion which I January; have procured; the people suppose this tree too young to mature its fruit, as it has always hith erto fallen when of the size of an orange, I am inclined rather to suspect that the failure may be occasioned by its open and exposed situation, as it naturally grows under the shade of the for est, this tree is about six inches in diameter, it is deciduous and appears to be in a sound and healthy state ; the branches are numerous and full of short thorns or prickles, it seems to re commend itself as highly proper for hedges or live fences, which are greatly wanted in many parts of the United States : this tree is known to exist near the Nakitosh (perhaps Lat : 32°) and upon the river Arcansa high up (perhaps in Lat : 36°), it is therefore probable it may thrive from Lat : 28° to 40° and will be a great acquisition to a great part of the U. S. should it possess no other merit than that of being ornamental. On my way down I endeavoured to discover a place said to produce Gypsum, but being with out a proper guide I failed in the research ; I have no doubt of its existence, and have taken notes of the positions of two places where it has been found ; one of which is the first hill or high land which touches the river on the west above the large Creek called Bayou Calumet and the other is the second high land on the same side ; as those are two points of the same continued [ '81 ] continued ridge, it is probable that an immense [1805 body of Gypsum will be found in the bowels [January of the hill connecting those two points and per haps extending far beyond them ; it has been said that fossil coal is found on the east side of the river opposite to the second hill ; it is prob ably Carbonated wood only : a person who pre tends to have been up among the sources of the Washita i oo leagues higher than the hot springs, declares having found true mineral coal, which burns with a strong heat and bright flame with out the aid of other fuel, a property which Car bonated wood does not possess. I do not give entire faith to this last report, the person who informed me being fond of the marvellous. Continue my voyage with contrary winds and f Monday 21? arrived the evening of the 22d at the Catahoola, j an^ Tuesday which by computation is fifty leagues from the post of Washita : At this place a french man named Hebrard is settled, who keeps a ferry across the black river : here the road from Natchez forks, one branch of it leading to the settlements on the red river and the other up to the Post ofthe Washita: The proprietor of this place has been a hunter and great traveller up the Washita & into the western countries; he confirms generally the accounts we have re ceived ; it appears from what he and others say, that in the neighbourhood of the hot-springs, higher [ '82] 1805 \ higher up among the mountains, and upon the January; little misouri, during the summer season, Ex plosions are very frequently heard proceeding from under ground, and not rarely a curious phenomenon is seen which is termed the blow ing of the mountains, that is, confined elastic gaz forces a passage thro' the side or top of a hill driving before it a great quantity of earth and mineral matter : it appears that during the winter season the explosions and blowing of the mountains entirely cease, from whence we may conclude that the cause of those phenom ena is comparatively superficial, being brought into action by the increased heat of the more direct rays of the summer-sun. Upon my arrival at the house of M. Hebrard, I enquired for horses to carry me across the low country to Concord opposite to Natchez, the distance by the road is computed 30 miles, but it is probable the direct distance falls short of 25, and it is remarkable that the river Washita preserves a kind of parallelism to the Missisippi until it comes within the influence of the high lands of the arcansa, & thence it is deflected to the North west & probably holds a middle ground between the red river and the arcansa ; the inclination of the missisippi is such that the walnut-hills are 30 miles to the east ofthe Natchez, the Post of the Washita will be found therefore nearly under the same meridian with that [ '83 ] that of Natchez very contrary to the general f 1805 idea. — M. Hebrard very obligingly engaged to [Januarv furnish me with horses, which it was necessary to hunt up in the woods ; In the meantime I went to view the Indian mounts spoken of in the beginning of this Journal ; I find this to be a very interesting place, it is the point of conflu ence of three navigable waters viz The Washita river, The tenza and the Catahoola, the second communicates with the missisipi lowlands by the intervention of other creeks and lakes & by one in particular called the Bayou d'argent which enters into the missisippi about 14 miles above Natchez, during high water there is navigation for batteaux of any burthen along those bayoux, a large lake called S? John's lake occupies a con siderable part of this passage between the Mis sisippi and the Tenza ; it is in a horse-shoe form, & has been at some former period the bed of the Missisippi, the nearest part of it is about one mile removed from the river ofthe present time; this lake possessing elevated banks similar to those of the river has been lately occupied & im proved ; many similar possessions and improve ments have been made since the first news of the cession of Louisiana by the french to the American Government ; I omitted to mention in its proper place that it is understood, that even the hot-springs included within a tract of some hundreds of acres were granted by the late [ '84] 1805 1 late Spanish Commandant of the Washita to January; some one of his friends, but it is not believed that a regular patent was ever issued for that place, & it cannot be asserted that residence with improvement can be set up as a plea to claim the land upon. The Catahoola bayou is the third navigable stream ; during the time of the inundation there is an excellent communication by the Lake of that name & from thence by large Creeks to the red river ; The Country around the point of union of those three rivers is altogether allu vial ; but the place of M. Hebrard's residence is no longer subject to inundation for reasons which have been already assigned ; there is no doubt that as the country augments in popula tion and riches, this place will become the site of a commercial inland town, which will hold pace with the progress and prosperity of the country. On this place are to be found a num ber of indian mounts, one of which is of very considerable elevation, with a species of rampart surrounding a very large space which was no doubt the position of a fortified town ; having taken some notes respecting this place, the whole will be digested and introduced into an Apendix which will be added to this Journal. Wednesday 23* This morning is cloudy and threatens rain, the horses are not found, therefore no prospect of [ '85 ] of setting out to day; a little rain fell about gh [1805 a.m. — in the afternoon one ofthe horses only Uanuary is found. Last night there was much thunder and light- Thursday 24th ning and this morning the rain falls very fast : Having no other employment I endeavoured to collect information, here I met with an Amer ican who pretends to have been up the Arcansa river 300 leagues; the navigation of that river he says is good to that distance for boats drawing 3 or 4 feet water : I do not give implicit faith to this man, when he speaks largely of the silver which he pretends to have himself collected upon that river, and even says that on the Washita 30 leagues above the hot springs he has found silver ore so rich that 3 lib of it yielded one of silver, & that this was found in a Cave: he asserts also that the ore ofthe mine upon the little Misouri was carried to Kentucky by a certain Boon, where it was found to yield largely in silver : This Amer ican says he has also been up the red river, that there is a great rapid just below the raft or natu ral bridge & several others above it : The Cadaux Nation is 50 leagues above the raft, and near to their Village commences the Country of the great Prairies, and extend 4 or 500 miles west to the sand mountains as they are termed; those great planes extend south far beyond the red river; north over the Arcansa river and among the [ '86] 1805 1 the numerous branches ofthe Misouri. This man January j confirms the accounts of the beauty and fertility of the western Country &c. — This evening the other horse has been found so that I hope to set out tomorrow morning. Friday 25?11 The horses being late of fetching up, we set out only at 9 o'clock ; the weather was cloudy but not cold; the meeting of three rivers here which form the black river, has given it a consid erable width at this place, little short I think of 400 yards. There is no apparent current here and the river is rising very fast, which is attrib uted to the Missisippi flowing up into the red river. The rain which has fallen these two days past, has rendered the roads extremely wet and muddy ; we made only one league in the hour ; arrived at the bayou Crocodile at 2h p.m. This place is considered half way from the black river to the Missisippi, & is one of those creeks which are extremely numerous in the low grounds & serve to assist in venting the waters of the inun dation : the whole of the Country thro' which we have passed to day appears to be subject to the annual inundation; there are some places higher than others upon which Canes are found growing, the margins of water courses are always found more elevated than the lands at some dis tance, which degenerate into Cypress swamps and lakes. At [ i87] At this place we found the waters of the Mis- [1805 sisippi had already flowed in so abundantly, that [ JanuaIy there was a necessity to prepare a raft for cross ing, & having in company three white men who understood the business, the raft was prepared of logs of the driest wood we could procure lashed together with our horse ropes and halters ; after two hours delay we got to the other side of the bayou which was about 60 yards wide includ ing the overflowed low margin of the Creek; we had yet 5 leagues to make & it was already 4 o'clock; we pushed on, but the roads were little better than mud and water for several miles together ; we were unable to get on fast enough to pass over this bad part of the road before it became extremely dark, and we expected to be obliged to spend the night in the woods with out fire, perhaps without a spot of dry land to rest upon : it was difficult to preserve the path ; in this respect we trusted chiefly to the sagacity of our horses, at length they brought us out of the woods & at gh p.m. We got to a new settled plantation four miles short of Concord, where we were hospitably entertained with good homely fare, particularly milk, of which I had not seen a drop upon the Washita, not even at their prin cipal settlement ; In those new Countries and all over the Opelousa Country, the Horned Cattle are in a semi-savage state, no provision is made or laid up for them during winter; in the fall of the [ '88] 1805 1 the year it is therefore necessary to turn out the January; Qa\£ wjth the Cow, otherwise she would aban don her young in the hands of its owner where it would infallibly perish; the Cattle move off in search of winter food & the proprietor fre quently knows nothing of the situation of his stock, untill the warm weather of the Spring & Summer season calls them out in search of the young tender herbage of the open fields. Saturday 26t.h Set out in the morning with a very cold freez ing air; I now think it extremely fortunate that we were not detained last night in the woods, as we certainly should have spent a very disagree able night. Arrived in an hour at Concord ; the settlement of this place has commenced only since the treaty of limits between the U. S. and Spain, but it has received its most considerable augmentation since the cession of Louisiana to the U. S. by citizens of the Missisippi territory who have either established their residence alto gether upon newly acquired lands, or what has perhaps been equally common, have taken up tracts of land under the authority of the Spanish Commandant & have gone to the expense of improvements either in their own names or in the names of others before the 20^ of December 1803 hoping thereby to hold their new posses sions under the Sanction of the law. Exclusive of the few actual residents on the banks of the Missisippi ['89 ] Missisippi, there are two very handsome lakes f 1805 in the interior, on the banks of which settle- Uanuarv ments of a similar nature have been made. Crossed the ferry and breakfasted at Natchez and arrived at my own house at ten o'clock where I had the satisfaction to find my family all well. JOURNAL of a Geometrical Survey commencing at S* Catherine s landing on the East shore of the Missisippi descending to the mouth of the red river, and from thence ascending that river, the black river and river ofthe Washita as high as the Hot Springs in the proximity of the last named river. [3] Preamble THE distances are taken by time from a portable chronometer, and proportioned by a log-line divided into perches, run out for half a minute : con sideration was always had for the velocity of the Cur rent by deducting it immediately from the rate per log, when it merited attention : it is to be understood that the rate per log noted, continues the same untill it is again noted with change. All meridian or other altitudes of the Sun above the horizon, noted in the following Journal, are to be understood of the lower limb, unless otherwise ex pressed. An excellent Circle of reflection with a triple Index, made byTroughton of London graduated to 10" of a degree, was used for taking altitudes, lunar distances &c ; this Circle is supported on a pedestal which gives it a solidity & perfection never to be expected from any instrument held in the hand ; the index error was regularly ascertained immediately after taking a me ridian altitude, by observing the Sun's contact with his reflected image both above and below : for facility in practice the greater contact was added to the apparent double altitude when the index error was additive ; and the lesser contact was added when the error was sub- tractive; which includes the Sun's semi-diameter and the correction of the index error giving at once the apparent double altitude of the Suns center, being careful to subtract the correction of refraction from the altitude ofthe lower limb only : altho' this was my [4] practice, I have agreeably to custom given always the Index error : some small differences will be found in calculating the Latitudes, arising from my practice, of prefering the Suns semidiameter taken from my in strument (generally smaller) to that found in the nau tical almanack, M?. Maskelyne astronomer royal has long since observed that the Sun's diameter as taken from Mayer's tables is 3" too much, I observe that this error is corrected in the almanac for 1805. The rate of going of the Chronometer having been frequently changed by being carried in the pocket, it was not proposed to depend upon its keeping the Longitude otherwise than as a good second hand watch to note the instance of astronomical observations, and was always preserved carefully in a horizontal position untill a connected series of observations was completed, during which time it is believed that the rate of going was sufficiently equable. Is] Journal of a Geometrical Survey com mencing at S' Catherine's landing on the East shore of the Missisippi de scending to the mouth ofthe red riv er, and from thence ascending that river, the black river and river of the Washita as high as the Hot Springs in the proximity of the last named river. THE following courses and distances from S? Catherines landing to the mouth ofthe red river were taken on the return of the boat at the termination ofthe voyage, but are now placed with more propriety at the commencement of the survey. South 210 perches. S 70 W1212 at 810 Hootsell's plantation on the right 1 y2 mile above the Island. S 30 W 120 passed between the Island and right bank. South 240 S 40 E 210 S 30 E 240 S 20 W 930 S 60 W 240 West 492 S35 W 282 S 20 W 189 [6 ] s 5 Wi 470 At 141 the left. 8 passed Homochilo river on s 40 E 528 s 20 W 600 s 5° w 540 s 20 w 420 s 60 E 595 s 75 E 925 At 805 rived at Buffalo river on the left; ar- : Fort adams. s 30 W2250 At 1940 the Line of demarcation on the left 310 North Lat :& 6b 6'. 42". Long: West of Greenwich; the last by M. DeFerrer. s 60 W 40 N 65 W 160 N 15 w 360 N 40 w 312 N6o W 120 N 85 w 960 to the mouth of Red river. [7] RED RIVER ARRIVED at the mouth ofthe Red river the J 1804 evening of the 17?^ of October: The Latitude [October and Longitude of this place having been accurately ascertained by Doctor Jose Joakin de Ferrer, we did not think it necessary to lose any time on that account — Lat 3 1? 01' 15" North, and Long : 6-7-1 1" west of Greenwich — proceeded to take the Courses and distances of the Red river as follows, beginning at the mouth of the river on the right margin. Thursday, i8'.h N 140 E o^'to a point on the same side: rate p? Log 4 per : p? half minute, no opposing Current. River 5 50 yards wide. N 8 W -.47 to a point on the left side. N 20 W -.23 to a point, right bank. N 5 E -. 5 alongshore. River 300 yards wide. N22E -.22 to a point left side — a Creek to the right. N 10 W -. 9 along shore. Rate of going 4 per. N 25 W -. 6 . . . d°. N45W-.ua lake on the right side. N 80 W -.22 to point right side. N 40 W-. 4 — river 250 yds wide. N 10 W-. 4 — no sensible current. N 32 E -.17 to a p? on the left 200 y- wide. N 25 W-.11 to a p? on the right. 8 Red River 1804 "1 N^ioW -.16 to a p.? on the left. October; N .. 1 5 W -. 6 to a p i on the right. N„ 25 W-.27 to a p? same side, a bend to the right. N..38 W-. 7 along shore. N..40 E -.20 d° S 75 E -.42 to a p.? on the left. N 40 E -. 7 along shore. N 5 E -.41 to a p.? on the right. N 40 E -. 6 to a p? on the left — a large Creek on the right. N? 80 W -.24 to a p.? on the right. N.. 10 E -.13 along shore. N..75 W-.23 alongshore. S 85W-.i6d?. N 75 W-.19 d: S 50 W -.46 to a point on the right. Made this day 12 Miles 296 perches. Friday it)?. Thermometer before Sun rise 46° N75Wo1i9'to a point on the left. Rate 7 perches per y Minute. Same course 0.27 to do. on the right. N 30 W 0.30 along shore. Wo.11 . . . d? N 60 W 0.14 a point on the left : rate of going 7 perches per y Minute. W 0.23 along shore. Same course 0.26 a point on the right. N 75 W0.33 along shore. N 50 W 0.26 to a point on the left : at 5' a Creek on the left. N 70 W 0.22 a p«int on the right ; wind contrary hove the log rate of going 4 perches. Black River 9 N 35 Wol22'along shore. J 1804 N 10W0.13 a point on the left, landed to ob- \ October serve and dined. Face of the Doub. ap. alt. O lower limb 97-0'- Circle West o" In : er : —13' 21". 5 Lat : found 3i-.i5'-48". N 60 W 0.40 a pl on right . . rate 5 perches. N 50 W 0.20 along shore to the mouth of black river 150 y?! wide, red river the same width ; entered Black river. N 35 E 0.25a point on the left. N 10 E 0.31 along shore. BLACK RIVER N 40 Wo'16' along shore, river 100 yards wide. S 75 W0.20 to a point on the right: sounded 20 feet, black sand, encamped for the night ; made this day 1 5 miles 102 perches. Saturday 20?1! Thermometer before Sunrise 470. W 0.30 along shore — hove the Log, 4 perches per y min. N 45 W0.45 to a P°int oh the right — tempera ture of the river 73 °. N 10 W0.28 to a point on the left — Chalybeate spring, temperature 66°. N 0.16 along shore. Same course 0.42 to a point on the right 6y perches per log. N 20 W 0.30 along shore rate of going 4 perches per log. 10 Black River 1804 "I N 50 E o^o'along shore river 80 yards wide — October; Canes on the right. E 0.10 to the left shore landed to observe at noon & dine. Face of the O doub : mer: ap : alt: 95-34'. Circle East 5". In : er + 13'— 32". 5 — Lat found 3 1° 22' 46". 6. S 75 E 0.58 to a p? on the right & continue to the left — Log 4 y, perch perj^ Minute. N 63 E 0.47 to a point on the right and continue to a point of the left ; Thermom eter at 3I 80° N 25 E 0.40 along shore — Canes on the right. N 45 W 0.27 along shore. S 80 W 1. 6 . . ditto; encamped for the night. Soundings 5 fathoms, black sand. This day's voyage makes 13 miles 40 perches. Sunday 21" last \ Thermometer before sun rise 6o° course continued J a little cloudey near the Horizon. S 80 W 0.48 along shore. N 45 W 0.5 1 to an Island; rate per log 4^ perches. N 13 W 1. 3 hoist sail, rate per log 8 perches: cane brake, little settlement. N 20 E 0.25 to a point on the left. Rate per log 4.y perch. N 25 Wo. 14 to a point on the right. N 40 E o. 6 to the left ; landed to observe and dine, clouds came over just at the moment before the Sun came upon the meridian, went off in a little time, he had dipped: the double alt: is 94? 37'. o' -." Black River ii In' er : + 13'. 34" which is too small, f 1804 the latitude is too far north. [October N 75 E 0^40' along shore. N 40 E 0.22 ditto Thermometer 83? S 30 E 0.23 Same course 1. 6 (sent the men to track) along shore, rate per log 5 perches. S 13 E 0.46 continue tracking ; cross and go on to a point on the left. N 75 E 0.35 to the right — encamped for the night. Extremes ofthe Thermom eter 60? to 83° cloudy ; wind S.S.E. made this day 14 Miles 59 perches. Monday 22 — Thermometer before Sun rise 65? Wind S.S.E. cloudy, rain before day. Continued N 75 E 0.20 to a point on the right. S 65 E 0.35 along shore — by log 5 perches per y Minute. E 1. 14 to a point on the left, cloudy. N 0.30 Hoist sail N 40 Wo. 1 8 to a point on the left — by Log 8 perch's per y Minute. Wind fails W 2.12 to a point on the right — by Log 4 perches, long reach, rain at noon, no observation. N 20 W0.35 along shore — Thermometer 79? N 40 E 1. 3 to a point on the left — by Log 5 perches. N 10 W0.19 along shore. N 45 W0.20 to a point along shore — sounded 1 2 Washita i 804 1 3 yz fathom, black sand — extremes October; of the thermometer 65? to 79! made this day 13 Miles 76 perches. Tuesday 23? Thermometer 68? before sun rise. Wind N.N.W. the river fell 3 inches in the night. N 65 W21! 5'along shore by log 5^ perches. N 10 Wo. 50 to a point on the right. N 10 E 0.38 along shore contrary wind — by log 3 y perches observed O Doub : alt: 92?58'.45". In: Er: +13'. dinner 45". 5. continue N 10 E 0.50 along shore. WASHITA N30 E o°i5'to the left shore, wind N.N.W. ar rived at the mouth of Catahoola, West course ; thermometer 750. N 10 E o. 8 the mouth of Washita : Bayu Tensa forks with Washita bearing N 8o° E : log 5 y perches. N 65 Wo. 7 along shore on the right : encamped. Extremes ofthe thermometer 68?- 750 took information at the mouth of the Catahoola which detained us <2.y hours; sounded, 6 fathoms; made this day 9 miles 77 y perches. By our reckoning the mouth of Washita is distant from the mouth of Red river 77 miles 57 perches ; Washita i 3 and by the old estimation 32 french J 1804 leagues. [October Wednesday 24 Thermometer before sunrise 54? Wind North, cloudy, temperature of the river 71? no current worth estimating. N 65 W o? 9'continued to the right shore — rate of going per log 4^ perches. N 35 E 0.23 along shore. N 0.20 ditto — high land on the right. W0.12 ditto, by log 5 perches. Bayu Ha- ha on the right coming in f ? East. N 0.12 ditto, oblique strata of clay, some dipping under y* horizon 30? in the direction of the river. N 60 E 0.1 1 to the left shore. breakfast N 30 E 0.27 along shore by log 5 perches cloudy. N 45 W0.13 ditto, river 80 yards wide. Wo. 1 8 to a point on the right luxuriant vegitation, grapevines, &c in rich dark festoons. N 30 W o. 6 along shore. N 30 E o. 3 clearing up — wind north. N 50 E 0.19 N 0.49 landed on the right to observe O Doub : alt : 92? 4'. 50" In : = er : dinner +13'. 45" land high no appearance of overflowing, oak forest, white, red, black, rich shrubbery. Lat: found 3 1° 42' 3o".5. continued N 0.42 to the right shore. continue taking all day rate per log 5 perches. 14 Washita 1804 \ N 55 W 0^3 1 'rich herbage along shore. October; N40E 0.11 along shore — low and small tim ber, upon the high bank. N 70 E 0.17 along shore E 0.17 ditto N 45 E o. 5 ditto N o. 8 ditto N 60 W0.83 ditto Wo. 9 S 7.0. W0.24 to the left — a large bayu going to S. W. called Barchelet. N 15 W0.39 made this day 14 miles 48 perches. Thursday 25 Thermometer 49? temperature ofthe river 68? Wind North, cloudy. contind N 15 W0.20 at 12'. pine point on the left, and Villemont's prairie on the right, per Log 4 perches. N 45 E o. 3 to a point on the right — high land. E 0.43 at 3'. bayu on the left. N 20 E 0.29 to Bayu Louis on the right, here commences the rapids. Breakfast. N 1 mile so many shoals in this course that no time or log could be kept — by estimation we went one mile and then were completely embayed, be ing enclosed by a bar of gravel and sand with only 8 to 12 inches of water ; cloudy, no observation ; This day we made only 3 miles 120 perches. Friday 26 Thermometer 40? Wind N.W. light clouds took Washita i 5 At 10^42'. A. M. 0 ap. dble alt : 82? 9'. 10" In : er : + \%'.^%" to regulate ( jQqa the watch. i .-. , At n .20.45 D» 88.10.5 Magnetic Azim : [October S 20# E. At noon took the G mer : alt : (doub) 90? 3c/. 10" In : er : + 13'. 48". Lat. 31? 48'. 57".5- ther mometer at 3 o'clock 70? Saturday 27- Thermometer 320 temperature of the river 64? wind North, clear above — a fog on the river, no observa tion all our efforts being employed Course 1 to get through a gravelly bar un confirmed J- y^ mile till 1 o'clock; the rapids continu- North J ing occasioned frequent stops so that we could only estimate the re mainder of this course at y of a mile ; the rockey pass which com pleted the rapids being 200 yards from the end of this last course. Wo? 1 5' to a point on the right — per log ^y perches. N 0.38 at 11 a bayu on the left — a point on the left : encamp : extremes of the thermometer 320— 73° : this day made 2 miles 77 perches. Sunday 28. Thermometer 40? temperature of the river water 63°. wind N.W. — clear above — fog on the river. N 45 Wo. 1 7 rate by log 4^ perches. N 0.17 at 5'. a prairie or natural meadow on the left to a point on the left. N 15 W0.13 Bayoo Boeuf on the right at 5'. Rockey hill on the right. N 45 W0.17 N 15 E 0.18 N 70 W 0.20 1 6 Washita 1804 \ S 55 Woho'on the right — here we made the October; following observations A. M. © doub : alt : 530 19'. 00". at 9b- 5'-! 6". — Mag : Az : S 60 E[ do 58 .14.10 at 9I1 20-28. d° S 57 EJ In:Er:+i3'.58. Apparent distance ofthe Sun and Moons nearest limbs 53° 24/. 50" '. In : Er : + 13'. 58". at 9k 47'. 28^". Same course 0.6 on the right, tracking the boat ; by log 5 perches. W0.14 ditto. N 10 E 0.14 N 10 W0.17W0.17 S 10 Wo. 1 1 To the right, landed to observe. dinner - Q ap : doub : alt : 88? 58'.45". In : er : + 13'. 58". Lat : found 3 1? 53'. 35". 5- Contin1! S 10 Wo. 8 S 78 Wo. 8 S 80W0.10 N 30 W 1. 8 a large prairie or savannah on the right — thermometer 78? at 31? the plane is named " Prairie noyee." S 45 W0.32 N 45 W 0.13 to the left. N 80 W0.31 S 45 W0.15 S 30 E 0.16 rate by log 5^ perches. S 82 Wo. 1 2 to the encampment. Sounded, 3 fathom, mud and sand, made this day 12 miles 116 perches. Note the rate of going of the watch to be ascertained from the Washita 17 morning altitudes of the Sun of ("1804 this day and the 26?? [October In future I have determined to take down the distances by the hour and minute as first placed upon the slate or blotter, being less liable to error; the differences as above stated may be taken after wards at leisure. Monday left Thermometer 41? temperature of the river water 62? wind N.W. fog on the river. Set out at 6?22' rate per Log $y perches. S 32 W6.31 N 35 W6.40 N 65 W7. 8 W 7.20 to the right bank. N 45 W 7.30 to the left. N 55 E 7.48 a Creek on the left: landed and made the following observations of the distances between the nearest limbs of the sun and moon. ' At 8?57'.io" dis : 4i?58'.2o" ' 9. 6 .10 . . . 41.55.40 9.26 .18 . . . 41.50.10 A. M. \ Took the following doub : Sun and azimuth. At 9* 47'. 46" doub : alt : . Sun's magnetic Az : S 45? E. In : Er : the same + 13'. 45". Set off at 10? \'. N 55 E 10.20 rate per log 5^ perches. N 30 W10.31 N 15 E 10.43 In: Er: + i3'-45" alt : of the 68? 44'.3o" 1 8 Washita 1804 I Wn? 1' October] N II. 7 N 45 E 11.41 W 1 1.47 took the O mer : ap : doub : alt : 88? 10'. 00" In: Er: +13'. 45" Lat: found 31? 58'. 2". dinner 1.12 p.m. Continf W 1.19 N 25 W 1.42 N 65 W 2. 4 to the left. N 2.35 N 45 W 2.46 N 85 W 3.15 rate per log 6 perches thermom eter 85? N 3.25 N 85 E 3.58 lost 4'. Cliffs and pine woods, soil thin greyish sandy loam. N 80 W 4.14 N 45 W 4.32 S 55 W 4.55 Wind S.W. Log 5 perches. W 5.13 N 35 W 5.28 N 55 E 5.35 to the right encamped. Soundings 3 fathom, thermometer 62? Note. The watch having been suffered to run down last night, the times of the altitudes of this day have consequently no connec tion with the former. This day made 14 miles 6^ perches. Tuesday 30th Thermometer 47? temperature of the river water 60? fog on the river wind W.N.W. clear. Set off at 6. 5 Washita 10 N 75 E 6?26'rate per log 5 perches. [1804 [October N 20 E 6.34 N 70 W 7.10 S 50 W 7.35 lost 1'. W 7.50 iakfast 8.47 N 10 W 9.12 N 40 E 9.25 N 82 E 9.47 N 68 W10.25 S 50 W10.55 wind W. N 50 Wn. 7 N 11. 14 N 60 E 11.34 landed and took the Suns mer: doub : altitude 87? 16'. 10" In : er : + 13'. 20"., some uncertainty at tended this observation ; the alti tude observed may have been a minute too small, which would place the latitude y> minute too far north ; it is however recorded with this remark latitude found 3205'.24". Set off at 1.20 N 50 W 2. 8 rate per log 5 perches. N 30 E 2.35 N 45 W 2.42 wind W. W 2.48 S 60 W 3.37 lost 9'. N 55 W 4. 7 lost4'.arapid:river30 yards wide. N 60 E 4.28 N 4-34 W 5.15 lost 14' creek on the left, perhaps ¦Bayu Calumet. 20 Washita 1804 \ N 5?25'to the left — encamped extremes October; of the thermometer 47?-83? Made 1 5 miles 1 50 perches. Wednesday 3 1 Thermometer 440 river water 62? Wind N.W. Clear. Set out at 6.30 N 45 E 6.50 strong current, rate per log re duced, 2 perches. N 20 W 6.55 S 65 W 7.46 lost 5'. N 40 W 8.10 got upon a shoal: breakfasted. Set off 9.58 N 40 W 1 0.44 lost 10' N 10 W11.18 N25 E11.35 per log /\.y perches: landed and took the Suns apparent : mer : double alt: 86? 27'. 10" In: er: dinner +I3'- 4°" latitude found 32? 10'. 13" at seting out got upon a bar which detained us. Set out again at 2.00 got over the bar. N 25 E 3.00 lost 6'. per log 4 perches. N 74 W 3.10 a small plantation on the right. S 25 W 3.35 Thermometer 84? W 3.40 N 5 W 4. 8 N 35 W 4.45 to a small plantation — another joining below : this day made 6 miles 165 perches. November "[Thermometer 48? river water 62? calm Thursday i"J clear. W y mile. The first part of this course could only be estimated by Washita 2 1 the eye, as a great part of this ;i8o4 morning was employed in getting [November over a rapid, which we effected about 12 (noon) it may be put down at half a mile. Set off after! i2{/ dinner ; continu'd W 2.33 rate by log 3 perches against a current. N40 W 3.12 a cliff 100 feet crowned by pines, lost 14'. this course upon a shoal. N30 E 3-H E 3.42 lost 1'. N30 E 3.44 rate per log 4^ perches. N 15 E 3.54 Thermometer 85? N45 E 4.36 lost 22' upon a shoal. N25 E 4.40 W 5.24 a sand bar half way across : river 50 yards wide. N 70 W 5-44 N 5.50 N45 E 5.55 at 8?* thermometer 64? extremes 48? -85? made this day 4 miles 115 perches. Friday i\ Thermometer 48? river water 62? light clouds ; wind S.S.E. a little fog on the river. Set off at 6.50 N45 E 7.16 rate per log 4^ perches. N — 7-23 N 65 W 7-3° S 55 W 8.26 lost 3'. breakfast 9.19 W 1 0.00 lost 20' on a shoal. 22 Washita 1804 1 N 55 Wn?54'lost iy hour on a log under November; water. N 10 E 12.30 lost 7'. on a shoal. N 15 W 1 2.53 landed to dine. Set of at 2.25 got immediately upon a log and after getting off set out again at 4.00 Thermometer 84? N 75 W 4.14 N 25 W 4.30 N 4.37 a cliff and pine hill on the left. N 85 E 4.50 S 80 E 5.23 N 30 E 5.39 lost 4'. N 45 W 5.50 encamped at a sand right made this day 8 perches. bar on miles the 104 Saturday 3* Thermometer 52? river water 640 light clouds. Set out al 6.19 N 45 W 6-34 by log $y perches. N 22 W 7.12 N 40 E 7.22 S 70 E 8.10 lost 25' on a shoal. breakfast Set out al • 9. 8 S 70 E 9.42 S 40 E 9-47 S 10 E 10.00 lost 3'. S 40 E 10. 5 rate per log 5 perches. S 75 E 10.11 wind ESE. N 10 E 10.34 lost 5'. N 5° E E 10.47 11.00 S 45 E 11. 8 Washita 23 n!'i5'stoped by a shoal. fi8o4 S 10 E 11.23 went ashore & prepared to ob-\ November serve. Set out after 1.3 1 0 ap : do: alt: 84? 18'. 40. In: dinner. er : +13'. 30". Lat: 32? 17'. 17". Set out at 1.3 1 after dinner. S 10 E 1.38 S 60 E 1 .45 towing the boat rate 5 x/> perches. N 60 E 1.55 N 30 E 2. 4 N 2.17 2.32 stop upon a shoal. N 20 W 2.45 N 3. 5 lost 3'. thermometer 86°. N 45 W 3.25 lost 10'. rate per log 4^ perches. S 65 W 3.57 lost 14'. upon a shoal. N 45 W 4. 3 N 20 E 4.20 lost 8'. — towing, rate per log 5 y perches. N 45 E 4.3 5 current — rate 4 perches. N 5. 5 lost 9'. N 45 E 5.15 encamped on the left, Thermome ter at 8? p. m. 720 made this day 1 1 miles 140 perches. Sunday 4^ Thermometer 54? river water 64? clear. Set off at 9.18 got aground in the morning. N 45 E 9.26 rate per log 4 perches. N 25 E 9.36 N 20 W 9.44 N 45 W10.26 lost 16' upon a shoal. S 75 W10.50 lost 3'. N 6^ Wn.oo N 50 W11.29 landed and observed the O ap: mer: alt: double 83? 33'. 45' ,11 24 Washita 1804 1 In: er: 13'. 32". Lat: 32? 21'. November; 10". Set out at i?36' N 20 W 3.25 lost 57' upon a shoal rate per log 2 perches. Same course N 20 W 4.00 lost 12' got out the tow line to track ; per log 5 y2 perches. N 20 E y2 mile this course being over shoals and rapids could only be estimated by sight made this day 4 miles 233 perches. Monday 5?? Thermometer 52? river water 62? heavy fog, had to unload two turns of our canoe to get over a shoal. Set off at 9.55 Last course Contd 10. 4 rate per log 5 perches. N 20 W11.15 N 45 W11.21 lost 3'. W 1 1.32 dark misty and cloudy. N 45 W12.00 lost 5'. N 45 E 12.13 N 25 E 12.42 lost 2'. N 45 E 1.34 lost 10'. N 10 W 1.43 wind N.W. dined. Set off at 3.00 N 75 W 3.12 rate per log 6 perches. S 50 W 3.55 Thermometer 68° Sun shines dimley through a blackish mist. W 4. 2 N 60 W 4.25 lost 2'. N 30 W 4.39 N 4.55 Washita 25 N35 W 5? 8' [1804 N 15 W 5.25 encamped on a sand bar on the [November right made this day 1 1 miles 276 perches. Tuesday 6* Thermometer 45? river water 64? heavy fog, wind west. Set out at 6.32 N 80 E 6.48 rate per log 5^ perches. S 7.10 lost i'. S 45 E 7-30 E 7.40 N 65 E 7-55 Breakfast 8.57 Contin? N65 E 9.42 rate per log \Y2 perches. N35 E 9-55 N45 W 10.28 lost 5'. N — 1 1. 13 lost 3'. N 40 W II. 18 S 65 W 11.30 landed and observed © apparent double altitude 82? 5'. 33". In : er: + i3'.3o". latitude found 32? 28'. 58". ' Dinner 1.30 Cont?.d S 65 W 1.52 rate per log 5 perches. S 60 W 2.00 N 10 W 2. 6 N 15 E 2.20 E 2.25 s ss E 2.47 N 70 E 2.52 N 2.55 N 25 W 3.25 arrived at the post of Washita. 26 Washita 1804 - 1 made this day 9 miles 257 perches November; amounting in the whole from the mouth of Red river 196 miles and 256 perches. Wednesday 7'- Took the © ap: mer: doub: alt: 81? 28'. 00" In : er: + 13'. 33"-5 lat itude found 32? 29'. 52". 5. The place where the observation was made is about 450 feet to the south of the post where Lieut: Bowman and his garrison are sta tioned, the latitude of the post is therefore 32? 29'. 57". 8?? & cf- Both cloudy days remained at the post. 9?? Thermometer 4.2°-j2° river 6i°. Saturday io'- Thermometer 40? made the following observations. by cal. var? rio!10/.l8//. O ap. dble 1 found A M J lowerlimb Alt (>l°-S'-S°" © mag : Az S 46 E I In : er : io°.9'. | 10.12.15 65.56 .53 S 43 E j+i3/.47/'.5 10 .8 I10.16.12 66.50.34 S 42 EJ 10 .8 © Ap : mer : dble : Alt : 79? 45'. 3" In : er+ 13'. 47". 5 Lat : found 32? 29'-35';. There is a difference of 17". be tween the Lat : found this day and on the 7^ I give the preference to the observation of this day, because on the 7'.h some interruption from visitants occasioned a moments inattention and it is believed the Sun might have dipped a little before the altitude was taken. Index er : + 13'. 47". 5. Washita 27 © triple contact as follows J 1804 P M. /JZ ** S £-1o If ' D/ A* ' . 11" upper limb") 4.3.1 center I « ap : D : Alt : 62? 55^.00 "1 4 . 4.52 lower limbj llnser: At 4 . 8 .55 upper limb~| f + i3/.47//.5. 4 .10 .41 center V C ap : Dble : Alt : 649 37/.45// J 4 .12 .24 lower limb J These contacts of the moon are not to be considered as so perfect as similar contacts of the Sun, on account of the pale light of her disk in the presence of the Sun, the illuminated part being also but a small proportion ofthe whole disk, the following mer : alt : of the moon taken in the evening was very correct . . . C ap : mer : dble : alt: 89? 17'. 2o"In:er: +13'. 47". 5, these were taken, because the C moon's alt : could not be taken at the same instants with the distances between the Sun and moon's limbs 28 Washita 1804 "1 and may be used or not as a check November; at the pleasure ofthe calculator. Distances of the moons west limb from a arietis At 7b 42/.57// Distance 719 45/.oo//") 7 .51 .27 71 .42.15 Vln:er:-I3/ VlYz". 7 -59 -3» 7i -38 -55 J Sunday \\^ Thermometer 240 At the post of Washita took the sun's ap : mer : dble : alt : 790 12' 7" In: er : + 13'. 32".5 Lat: 320 29'3o".5. Set out at 3^54' from the post of Washita. N 45 W 4.30 lost 2' ; per log 8 perches per y2 minute. N 30 W 4.55 to Baron Bastrop's plantation ; encamped, made this afternoon 3 miles. The meridian observations of this day and yesterday for the Lat : being in my opinion both as good as the instrument admits, I take the mean of the two for the truth, and as the distance of the post from the place of observa tion is 450 feet North, I consider the true latitude of the post as fixed at 32 29' 37". 8. Monday 12th Thermometer in air 36° in river water 54? clear, calm. Sett off at 8.26 took in some fresh beef &c. N 55 E 8.35 rate per log 8 perches. N 8.39 N 60 W 9.15 lost 24' upon shoals. N 10 W 9.20 N 25 E 9.40 Washita 29 N 9?"46'Bayu Siard on the right computed /1804 2 leagues from the Fort. [November N 70 W10.15 river 100 yards wide. N 30 W 1 0.23 at ioj1 20' Bayu d'Arbonne, enter a narrow passage to the left which contains the whole river, being shut up on the right except dur ing freshes : the course of the old river upwards is east : and the new channel with high banks is from 30 to 40 yards wide. N30 E 10.25 N 60 E E 10.31 io-33 S 45 E 10.45 at 10, ,39 return to the great river. N60 E 10.55 N 30 E 11.20 E 11.50 landed to observe © mer: ap: dble: alt: 780 28' 52" In : er : + 13' 31" Latitude 320 34' 47". After dinner set off at 1.48 Continued E i-53 N 2.00 N 70 W 2.10 N 2.15 N 40 E 3- 3 at 2. rapid 30 a rapid — and shoal. 2.45 another S 70 W 3-x7 lost 5 ' upon a shoal Stoped untill 4.27 upon a shoal. N 50 w 5-3° lost 25' encamped; thermometer at 8h p.m. 54? made this day 16 miles 32 perches. 3° Washita 1804 1 Tuesday 13th Thermometer in air 33° in river water November f 550 — fog — calm . Set off at 6I51 'per log 8 perches. Continued N 50 W 6.55 N E 7. 2 7-23 N45 E 7.40 N45 W 7-44 S 85 W 8.00 S 55 W 8.40 lost 10'. at 8h 10' an 8h 12' a strong rapid breakfast. Island ; landed at to Set off at 9.42 9 computed leagues from the post : an Island on the right rocks called Roque rau. N 9.46 rate per log 7 perches. N45 E 9-53 wind south. N45 W 10.31 river 1 50 yards wide — banks about 25 feet high. N 1 1. 10 lost 17' on shoals — at nh 3' gravelly rapids and a house on the right. Otter Bayou on the left at the end of the course : an Island at the mouth of the Bayou. S 70 E 11.30 lost 12' the river has a more spa cious appearance than below. N 80 E 11.55 Two settlements at the end ofthe course on the right called ' Ecor aux Noyers ' 30 feet bank, 4 feet clear at high water. Some Cypress grows along the bank. N 30 E 12.10 N 70 E 12.30 at i2h 26° a house on the right. N 10 E Set off at Continued N 10 E N35 E N 15 E N40 E Washita 3 1 12^36'a shower of rain — landed to dine. [1804 3. 3 Thermometer 66°. [November 3.17 rate per log 8 perches. 3-3° 3-5° 4.00 a 3.54 Bayu Bartelemi 12 com puted leagues from the post. N 55 W 4. 1 1 rate per log 6y perches. S 75 W 4.25 lost 8'. N 45 W 4.27 N 25 E 4.29 N 65 E 4.38 E 4.46 N.30 E 4.51 N 20 W 5.00 N 60 W 5.10 Bayou Pawpa. N 20 W 5.20 encamped on the right, made this day 16 miles 312 perches. At 8h p.m. Thermometer in air 620. Wednesday 14?? Thermometer in air 440 in river water 550 clear, calm. Set off at 7. 6 rate per log $y perches. N 20 W 7.24' Bayu Mercier on the left. N 10 E 7.50 lost 1'. *N 10 W 8.12 landed to repair the rudder irons & to breakfast. Set off 10.24 Continued * On our return we landed 37 perches below the end of this course i. e. at 81? Sy on the I5'.h January 1805 and took the Sun's alt: to correct the time of the watch, at ioh 56' 24" a.m. ap: alt: © 1.1. 66° 36' 45" In: er: + 12' 20". 32 Washita 1804 1 N 10 Wio?35'wind N.W. November; N 40 W 11. 19 at 11.3 'Bayu Buttes ' (mount Creek). N 11. 21 N65 E11.25 rate per log 6 perches. N 11-30 N 70 W 1 1.40 landed to observe © ap : mer : dble : alt: 7 6° 54' 35" In: er: + 13' 47"-5. latitude found 320 50' 8"-5. After dinner Set off at 1.40 Continued S 70 W 1.47 N 80 E 2. 3 N 2.13 N 55 W 2.27 N 35 W 2.30 lost 8'; at 3h 6' an Island begins, main channel on the left — qr. 311 30' at 311 13' End of the Island and Bayu on the left. N 10 W 3.40 rate per log 7 perches; low coun try commences. N 15 E 3.53 N35 E 3-S9 N 45 W 4. 4 river from 50 to 60 yards wide. N 75 W 4. 7 N 4. 1 5 small timber ; overcup white oak along the banks subject to be overflowed. NN 35 E 4.194.22 S 70 W 4.26 N 60 W 4.28 N 4.29 Washita N 5° E 4h33' N 20 W 4-35 N 45 W 4-39 N 4.42 N 45 E 4.44 S 85 E 4.50 N x5 E 4-53 N 60 W 4-55 N 80 W 4.58 N 40 w 5. 2 *N 40 E 5. 6 N 80 E C.IO* Wind west — 33 [1804 [November ¦ river 35 to 40 yards wide. N S-^3 N 30 W 5.17 Encamped on the left, made this day 12 miles 303 perches. Thursday 15* Thermometer in air 33° in river water 55° hoar frost — some clouds. Set off at 9.14 Continued N 30 W 9.35 rate per log jy per : N 10 W 9.42 N 40 W 9.50 N 10. 3 N 50 W10.10 S 70 W10.24 lost 8'. N 10-53 l°st 5' a rapid. N 70 E 11.00 Bank low overflows 20 feet per pendicular. N 20 E 11. 4 N 20 Wn. 7 * On our return down the Washita, on the 14* January 1805 we observed an Eclipse of the moon at this place, from whence the longitude was deduced. 34 Washita 1804 \ N45 Wn?23' November; N 30 E 11.24 No more long moss (Tilansia) seen above this. N 45 E 11.35 at Ilh 33' 'Isle de Mallet' — landed to observe and placed the Instrument on the left shore 90 yards higher than the point of the Island : © ap : dble : mer : alt: 76°5'28" In: er: +13'. 30" Latitude found 32? 59' 27". 5. The division line between the Territory of Orleans and that of Louisiana will traverse the river 3?.y2" of a degree north of the place of observation, and may be found at any time by following the above remarks respecting the situation of the N.E. end of the Island of Mallet. Set off after dinner at 1.28 N 10 W 1.46 N35 E 1.55 N 25 W 1.58 N 30 W 2.10 rate per log 7 perches. N 80 W 2.17 N 25 W 2.30 N" 2 T C ~i ,T , „T '•*¦> 3 sand beaches ('les trois bat- n 60 w 2.42 )¦ i ,v v XT „T ^ I tures ). N 10 W 2.51J ' W 3.13 S 45 W 3.24 Thermometer 6o°. W 3.33 rate per log 8 perches * Bayu grand marais ' on the left. Washita 35 N45 w 3h35' ' /l8°4 -, a ~ [November Stop N 3-57 N 50 w 4- 5 N 4- 7 N60 E 4.12 N 4.15 N 40 w 4-34 N 4.42 Cypriere Chattelerau on the right — a point of high land approaches within half a mile of the river on the same side. N45 w 4.46 S 80 w 4.56 S 75 w 5. 2 N45 w 5. 5 Encamped on the left — Ther mometer at 8h p.m. 50? extremes 33°-6o? made this day 16 miles 42 perches. Friday 16?? Thermometer in air 3 8° in river water 54° — cloudy — calm. Set out at 6.58 Continued N45 w 7.10 rate per log 7^ perches. N 10 w 7.16 N45 w i-n N 15 w 7.26 a Creek on the left. N 5 E 7-35 N45 W 7-39 w 7.40 S 70 w 7-43 S 80 w 7-49 N45 w 7-51 N45 E 7-54 36 Washita 1804 1 N 65 November J N 25 E 7?58' E 8." 2 N 10 W 8.10 N45 E 8.22 N 8.27 Breakfast 9-3 5 Continued N 9.42 1 rate per log 7 y perches. N65 E 9.45 S 60 E 9.50 N45 E 9.55 N 10. 8 N 20 E 10.18 N 20 W10.24 N45 W10.37 N 10.40 E i°-S3 N30 E 10.56 N 15 Wii.io N 50 W11.19 on the right, 'marais de la Saline' — a large lake and point of high land about a mile distant - — Tulip creek on the right. N 80 W12. 2 lost 24'. S 70 W12.22 N45 W12.29 S 45 W12.53 Great Saline Bayu on the right. Dinner 2-34 Cont? S 45 W 2.39 rate per log 7^ perches. W 2.43 N 20 W 2.45 N30 E 2.57 N75 W 3. 4 Washita s 80 W 3h24' s 25 E 3-34 s 60 W 3-39 W 3-54 N 20 E 4.00 N 45 E 4.14 N 20 W 4.23 the 3 pine trees N 55 W 4.46 lost 8'. 37 ^804 [November h N 4.50 W 4.52 S 4.54 encamped: Thermometer at ' 8 p.m. 420 extremes 38! 51? made this day 17 miles 185 perches. Saturday 17- Thermometer in air 40? in river water 54° fog on the river, calm, river rose 2 y inches in the night. Set off at 7.19 Course continued S 7.23 rate per log 6 perches. S 75 E 7-^7 N 7.40 W 7.42 S 45 W 7-55 N 45 W 8.00 N 20 E 8. 9 N 60 E 8.17 N30 W 8.18 N 80 W 8.27 N 20 W 8.30 N 5 W 8.56 W 8.58 'maraisde cannes ' (cane marsh) on the right. Breakfast 10. 7 S 15 W 1 0.23 rate per log 7 perches. 38 Washita 1804 1 S 65 Wio?42'long leaf-pine. November; N 45 W10.49 saw the first swan, shot by one of the hunters. W10.52 S 45 Wn. 1 pirsimmons and small black grapes. N45 W11.18 S 75 Wi 1.25 small cane — Sun breaks out — serene. N55 Wn.30no long moss (tilandsia) seen since we entered the low alluvial lands. N 11 .42 landed to observe. © mer : ap : dble: altitude 74° 37' 52" In : er : + i3'57".5 latitude 330 13' 1 6".5. Dinner 1.42 Continued N 1.49 rate 8 perches. N45 E 1.50 E 2. 5 N 2. 9 a rapid. W 2.21 canes pines. N 70 W z-39 N45 E 2.52 saw an alligator, N 3.10 N 80 W 3.30 the Eagle. S 45 E 3-3* s 30 E 3.48 lost 10'. S 15 W 3-52 S 70 w 3-57 N 80 w 4. 4 N60 w 4.17 S 80 w 4.19 S 55 w 4.29 N 80 w 4-3 2 N 30 w 4.35 sand beaches. Washita 39 N 4-47' /1804 N 70 W 4.53 [November W 5. 7 Thermometer at 8h p.m. 440 ex tremes 4o°-5i0 made this day 15 miles 308 perches. Sunday 18?^ Thermometer in air 32? in river water 5 2° serene — calm, — river rises a little. Set out at 7.20 Continued W 7.23 rate per log 7^ perches. S 20 W 7.34 S 80 W 7.49 lost 3' by the rapid, at 7.41 an Island and passage round to the right, the old channel shut up by a sand bar ; the whole river runs through the narrow channel of about 70 feet wide. N 10 E 8. 2 N 15 W 8. 6 N 40 W 8.20 S 80 W 8.23 S 35 W 8.27 s 10 w 8.40 N 80 W 8.48 S ^5 w 8.51 s 45 E 9. 2 s 9- 7' 1 Cache place). la Tulipe ' (Tulipe's hiding Breakfast 1 0.1 1 Continued S W 10.22 10.34 rate pel •log iy perches. N 20 E 10.40 N 15 w 10.44 40 Washita 1804 1 N 40 Wio?52' November] N 10 Wn. 7 W11.13 S 25 Wi 1.20 lost 3' by a rapid. S 60 W11.25 N 80 W11.30 N 50 W11.41 landed to observe, 0 ap: mer: dble: alt: 74 1' 25" In:er:+i3'. 50" latitude found 330 17' 33". Dinner 1.33 S 75 W 1.46 rate per log 7^ perches. N 1.55 N 30 E 2. 9 N 2.14 Bay Morau — a large inlet on the right, which swells into a consider able lake during an inundation. N 80 W 2.26 South 2.43 S 45 W 2.46 large pine trees. S 65 W 2.56 S 15 W 3.10 S 50 W 3.27 lost 14'. S 75 W 4.19 hill on the left called ('Cote de hachis '). S 55 W 4.30 S 85 W 4.32 N 30 W 4.34 N 4-39 N 35 W 4-4i N 60 W 4.44 S 30 W 4.52 S 70 W 4.57 N 70 W 5.00 N 40 W 5.02 Washita 4i N 5?o5'encamped Thermometer at 8hfi8o4 p.m. 570 in air, cloudy, made this [November day 18 miles 75 perches. Monday 19. Thermometer in air 54? in river wa ter 54? cloudy, calm, river at a stand. 6.56 Set off at Continued NN60 W N35 w S 15 w S 70 w N70 w N30 w N70 w N52 w N N 70 E N47 E N W S 55 W N80 W N 50 W N50 E N 30 E Breakfast N 30 E N30 W S 25 W 7.00 rate per log 75^ perches. 7-*5 7.18 7-23 7.24 7.26 Bayu de Hachis on the left. 7-3 1 7.40 7-49 7.52 points of high land touch the river at various places — the val ley about a league broad on each side. 7.58 8.17 8.25 8.268-378.40 8.45 8.52*-53 10. 6 10.1510.28 10.42 42 Washita 1804 1 November; N 58 Wio?44' W 1 0.46 N 15 W10.53 N 40 W11.08 Wii.io S 25 W11.26 S 10 E 11.29 S 35 E 11.34 S 50 W11.38 W11.48 N 20 W11.53 N 60 W11.58 N 40 W12. 4 N 80 W12. 8 S 60 W12.16 S 40 W12.22 S 55 W12.32 S 45 W 1. 4 lost 20'. N 65 W 1. 11 N 1.30 Dinner 3.24 cloudy. Continued N 3-29 N 50 W 3.33 W 3.36 S 55 W 3.44 N 70 W3.45 N 3-47 N55 W 4.00 N 4- 7 N 60 W 4.15 N 20 W 4.20 N 25 E 4.30 N 80 W 4.34 Washita 43 S 80 W 4?42' ;i8o4 N 35 W 4.45 Cabane Champignole. [November N 60 W 4.52 rain. N 10 W 4.55 encamped, Thermometer at 8? p.m. made this day 18 miles 120 perches. Tuesday 20*- Thermometer in air 590 in river water 540 cloudy, calm. Set off at 6.48 North 6.56 rate per log 7^ perches. West 6.58 S 40 W 7. 4 S 60 W 7.17 N 55 W 7.30 N 20 W 7.39 a deep creek on the left called Chemin couvert. N 7.48 N 50 W 7.52 S 75 W 7.56 S 10 W 8. 4 S 75 W 8.13a rapid, and gravel beach, water 40 yards wide. N 60 W 8.20 N 20 W 8.37 a narrow passage to the left 60 feet wide a small narrow Island. N 45 W 8.44 N 25 W 8.50 N 25 E 9. 4 N 30 W 9.20 lost io'. N 55 W 9.32 Breakfast 10.50 S 80 W 1 1. 7 rate per log 7^ perches. N 75 W11.14 N 45 W11.23 44 Washita 1804 1 S 80 November; S 35 Wnh27' W11.29 S 28 W11.39 S 58 W 1 1.48 saw an alligator / they seldom go farther north in this river. s 30 W 1 1.53 Timber — birch, maple, holly &c. S 75 W12. 2 cloudy and uncertain, did not go ashore to observe. N60 W12. 4 N 20 W12.15 N25 E 12.22 S 75 E 12.32 N 40 E 12.36 N 10 W12.50 W12.54 S 80 W 1. 4 Dinner 3.00 Thermometer 62? N 10 E 3.16 ferruginous earth. N45 W 3.18 S 50 W 3.31 W 3.36 N 3-3* N 50 E 3-44 N 3-5° N45 W 3.56 N75 W 4.00 S 70 W 4.10 S 50 W 4.32 lost 7'. S 85 W 5. 3 at 4.54 a hill of pines on the left; at 511 an island ; we passed through a small channel to the right, made this day 18 miles 308 perches, thermometer at 8h p.m. 54? ex tremes 59°-62°. Washita 45 Wednesday. 21" Thermometerin air 43?, in river water ;i8o4 540, fog, calm. [November Set off at 7? 3'. Course continued. S 85 W 7.15 rate per log 7 perches. N 35 W 7.17 Fin's hill a cliff 100 feet perpen dicular. N 7.44 lost 6' by a rapid. N 25 W 7.52 N 10 W 7.57 N 25 E 8.19 N35 W 8.29 W 8.32 S 8.35 S 40 E 8.43 S 55 W 8.53 river 80 to 90 yards wide. S 85 W 9. 5 Breakfast 10.12 'Cote a Ross' (Ross' hill or camp). N 10 E 10.20 N 45 W10.26 S 75 W10.32 N 45 W10.35 N 15 W10.47 N 45 E 10.55 S 45 E 11. 11 N 45 W11.20 N 10 W11.26 N35 E 11.34 N 1 1.46 landed to observe © ap : mer: dble: alt: 720 14' 48" In : er : + 13'. 51" Latitude found 33° 29' 29". Dinner 1.30 N 55 W 1.39 rate 7 perches. 46 Washita 1804 \ S 80 W i?45' November; N 75 W 1.5 1 N 60 W 1.55 N 85 W 1.59 S 45 W 2. 2 S 2. 4 S 40 E 2.12 S 2.15 S 40 W 2.25 N 80 W 2.33 S 80 W 2.47 lost 8'. West 2.52 a creek to the left. N 10 W 2.57 N 75 W 3.22 lost 7' thermometer 720. N l5 E 3-33 N55 E 3-35 N 80 E 3-46 N45 W 3-51 S 82 W 4- 3 N 60 W 4. 9 N 52 W 4.14 N 70 W 4.20 ' Pointe-Coupee ' (a cut off) old channel in a continuation with this course, the boat channel to the right. N 50 E 4.24 N 68 E 4.28 N35 E 4-33 N 58 E 4.40 N 4-43 N43 W 4.48 N 15 W 4.51 N 30 E 5.00 N 5- 5 Washita 47 N 45 W 5? 9' encamped on the right: made 18 J1804 miles 36 perches : thermometer at [November 8 p.m. 58! extremes 43°-72°. Thursday 22- Thermometer in air 400 in river water 53- light clouds — calm, set off at 7.6. S 62 W 7.15 rate per log 6y perches. W 7.20 N 53 W 7.36 N 32 E 7.42 N 7.51 . N 45 W 7.58 N 20 W 8. 2 N 20 E 8. 9 N 25 W 8.12 N 55 W'8.18 W 8.31 N 45 W 8.33 N 20 W 8.41 N 40 W 8.45 N 8.53 N 45 W 8.58 Breakfast. 10. 7 S 80 W10.16 N 85 W10.21 S 70 W10.25 S 10.33 at 10.28 tne Cadaux or Cadodoquis path crosses the river leading to the Arcansas. W 1 0.48 at 10.43 ' Ecor "a Fabri ' (Fabri's cliffs) 80 to 100 feet high lead said to be buried on the ridge by Fabri in the direction of the french and Spanish line. 48 Washita 1804 \ November; N 60 Wio?52' N 40 W10.55 N 10.59 N 45 E 11. 8 lost 7' — 40 yards wide. S 80 E 10.20 N 45 E 11.21 N 11.23 N 30 W11.25 N 70 W11.31 N 25 W11.33 N 11-36 N 65 E 11.41 N 20 E 11.43 N 10 W11.45 N 45 W11.56 cloudy, no observation. N 75 W12. 2 S 85 W12.17 lost 8'. at 12.15 'petit ecor a Fa bri ' (small cliff of Fabri) N 45 W12.20 N 10 W12.26 N 30 W12.31 Dinner 2.34 N 2.37 E 2.44 S 2.45 a rapid. S 45 E 2.47 E 2.50 N 40 W 2.58 N 15 W 3. 8 N 45 W 3.10 W 3.13 river 30 yards wide only here, en closed by bars &c. S 45 W 3.16 S 15 E 3.20 Washita 49 S 45 W 3h23' fi8o4 W 3.27 [November S 70 W 3.28 N75 W 3.31 N 20 W 3.34 N 26 E 3.56 lost 9'. N 60 E 4. 6 N 20 E 4. 8 N 5 W 4.11 N 50 W 4.15 W 4.18 rapids. S 50 W 4.25 d? N 60 W 4.53 lost 18' strong rapids and shoals. N 10 E 5.00 encamped made this day 14 miles 317 perches thermometer at 8 p.m. 54 extremes 40? 68°. Friday 23 d Thermometer in air 48? in river water 54? light clouds — calm : river on the fall. Set off at 7. 4 N 15 W 7. 8 rate per log 6 perches. W 7.1 1 N 55 W 7.13 N 25 W 7.15 N 10 W 7.34 lost 5'. rapids. N45 E 7.39 N 7.43 N 60 W 7.47 W 7.53 S 45 W 8. 2 lost 2'. rapids. W 8. 5 N 60 W 8. 8 N 20 W 8.26 lost 2' on rapids. N 45 W 8.28 lost 1'. 50 Washita 1804 1 S 45 W 8h35' November j Breakfast 9.54 Drunkards Islands. N 45 Wio. 1 N 15 E 10. 5 N 25 E 10.12 N 45 E 10.17 N 45 W10.25 lost 5'. S IO-37 l°st 5'« N 45 W10.54 lost 5'. N 85 Wn. o N 45 Wn. 5 N io E 11. 9 'Cote a Sofrion' (Sofrion's hill). N 15 W11.15 banks from 9 to 12 feet high; yellowish clay. N 65 W11.20 lost 4'. N 45 W 1 1.43 Landed to observe © ap : d£le: mer : alt 700 59' 13" In: er + 14' 8" Latitude found 33° 41' 35". Dinner 1 .43 N 45 E 1. 5 1 ' Pointe-Coupee,' old channel to the east. N 1.54 lost 2'. W 1.56 S 70 W 1.58 N 45 W 2. 6 Lost 2.20 stop to cut willows. N 45 E 2.22 N 15 W 2.30 N 30 W 2.43 N 10 E 2.50 N35 E 2.56 N 60 E 3. 7 N 3. 9 N 45 W 3.12 Thermometer 720. Washita 51 N 80 W 3hi7' ^804 [November S 75 W 3-24 S 35 w 3.37 lost 6'. S 3-4Q S 45 ww 3-45 3-5* N 50 w 4. 2 N 50 E E 4- 5 4-i3 N 25 E 4.17 N 4.30 lost 2'. N45 E 4-33 N 4-38 N75 W 4.46 rapids. N 20 w 5.00 N 5. 5 Encamped. Made !3 miles 28 perches thermometer ; at 8h. p.m. 54°. Saturday 24* Thermometer in air 482 in river water 54- light clouds — calm — river at a stand. Set off at 6.56 N 10 w 7. 4 rate per log 6 perch es. S 45 w 7. 8 Iron ore — black sand ' Auges d'Arclon ' (Arclon's troughs). N 25 w 7.36 lost 22'. N 60 E 7.53 river in general 80 Yards wide. N25 E 8. 3 N 70 E 8. 6 S 50 E 8.22 lost 3 rapid. N 40 E 8.30 N 8-39 Breakfast 9-49 • rocky bottom — strong 52 Washita 1804 [ N 35 Wioh o' November; N IO. 3 N 40 E 10.56 lost 30' long and strong rapids. N 70 E 11.20 lost 18' ditto. E 11.27 S 45 E 11.30 S 15 E 11.39 lost 2'. S 45 E 11.48 lost 3'. a deserted corn patch. N 15 E 12. 8 cloudy, no observation. N 41 W12.18 osiers or hoop willows. N 65 W12.25W 1 2.34 Bayu Tallien on the left. N 60 W 1. o lost 5' on a rapid. N 55 W 1. 1 4 Forks of the Washita and Little- Missouri, the latter coming in from the left in the direction of the last course. Dinner 3.10 N 20 W 3.20 N 30 E 3.25 lost 3'. N 3.33 lost 5'. N40 W 3-37 N60 W 3.41 lost 3'. N45 W 3.46 lost 2'. N20 W 3.51 lost 4' Petit-Washita on the left, runs into the Little Missouri. N 70 E 3.58 lost 1'. N45 E 4.18 lost 9'. E 4.22 ' Belle ance.' N35 E 4.25 N30 W 4.47 lost 15'. N25 E 4-54 N 60 E 4.56 S 85 E 5. 7 lost 5'. Washita 53 N 60 E 5? 1 3 'encamped — thermometer at 8? ;i8o4 p.m. 590. [November made 11 miles 152 perches. Sunday 25?^ confined all day to camp by the bad state of the weather, raining great part of the day. Extremes of the thermometer 540 to 700 and at 8h p.m. 62? Monday 26th Thermometer in air 500 in river water 570 — clear — calm — river risen 3 y, inches during the night. Set off at 7. 7 N 40 E 7.52 lost 30' rate per log 6y perches. N 8. 5 white maple. N 45 W 8.13 lost 2'. N 20 W 8.25 Bear's head camp. N 60 W 8.30 N 80 W 8.38 cane land. S 35 W 8.42 S 75 W 8.47 W 8.58 lost 2'. N 30 W 9.1 1 N35 E 9.15 Breakfast 10. 8 E 10.15 lost 8'.* N 10.20 W10.24 N 40 W10.39 lost 6'. N 10.50 N 80 E 10.53 l°st *'• N 1 1 .03 N 45 Wi 1.24 lost 1' — 'Petite-Cote' — anlsland. N 11.27 N 22 E 11.33 54 Washita 1804 \ N 73 November; N 35 E i n?4i' E 3 [1.46 N 85 E : [1.50 landed to observe — O ap : mer: dble: alt: 690 13' 52" In: er: + 13' 38" Latitude found 33° 54' 6".5. Dinner 1.47 Continued N 85 E 1.50 N38 E 1.57 lost 4'. N 20 E 2- 3 N 85 W 2.15 N 70 W 2.20 N45 w 2.29 many Islands. N 25 w 2.52 lost 16'. N 70 E 3- 0 N 25 w 3.15 lost 9'. N65 w 3.28 N 50 w 3.33 at 3.31 'Bayu de Cypre' on the left, birch and osier. N 3-4° E 3.46 lost 5'. N 30 E 3.15 lost 4'. N55 E 4.40 lost 38'. cut away some logs. N 20 w 4-47 N75 W 4.52 S 65 w 4-55 S 5. 1 Encamped — Thermometer at 8 p.m. 620 — extremes 50°-6 8° made 12 miles 21 perches. Tuesday 27?^ Thermometer in air 540 — in riverwater 5 8° — cloudy — river risen above a foot. Set off at 7. 1 Washita 55 S 80 W 7? 1 1 'rate per log 6z/2 perches. ^804 N 70 W 7.17 [November N 45 W 7.21 N 10 W 7.33 N 20 E 7.38 rapids commence. N 80 E 7.46 lost 6'. N 40 E 7.55 N 30 W 8. o N 70 W 8. 9 lost 7' Piraugue a Gallien. S 70 W 8.15 lost 3' left the rapids. N 50 W 8.20 N 8.33 N 30 W 8.48 Breakfast 9.51 river rises \y2 inch during the hour. W9.55 S 30 W10.10 W10.13 N 45 W10.17 N 10 W10.30 N 45 W10.32 S 70 W10.36 S 30 W 1 0.40 lost 2'. N 70 W10.48 N 40 W10.52 N 10.54 N 45 E 11. 12 N 25 E 11.29 l°st 8' a large Island to the left. N 40 E 11.30 N 11.35 N 45 E 11.42 N 25 E 11.46 N 11.52 cloudy — no observation. N 36 Wi 2.04 at 12? ' Cache a Macon ' and bayu 56 Washita 1804 1 on the right: about \x/2 mile November/ N.N.W. explored the banks of a creek in search of a coal mine and found only some fragments of carbonated wood ; river risen 4 inches in 2 hours. Dinner 2^15' N 60 W 3. o rate per log 6y perches. W 3.25 lost 17'. N 45 w 3-34 N 3.40 N 45 W 4. o lost 6' river 150 yards wide. N 70 W 4. 9 W 4.23 lost 7'. N 70 W 4.32 lost 6'. N 45 W 4.49 N 85 W 4.52 N 70 W 5. o encamped thermometer @ 8hp:m. 66° extremes 54°-7i° made this day 13 miles 39 perches. Wednesday 28t:h Thermometer in air 68° — in river water 60° — river fallen 4 inches in the night — cloudy — calm. Set off at 7. 5 S 65 W 7.13 rate per log 6x/2 perches. S 80 W 7.22 S 65 W 7.29 'Ecor aux poux de bois.' N 60 W 7.37 N 7.42 N 35 E 8.16 lost 22'. N 50 E 8.30 N 30 E 8.39 8.54 lost 10'. N 8.57 Washita 57 Breakfasi 10? 3 'beautiful pine woods on the right. f 1804 lost 14' — Bayu de 1'eau froide on [November N 10.32 the right, no cypress to be seen about this creek on the margin of the river. W 10.36 S 45 W 10.42 lost 3'. N 75 W 10.46 N 45 w 10.49 N 11. 11 lost II'. N 40 w 11. 15 lost 2'. N 11.25 lost 5'. N 75 w 11.30 S 70 w 1 1 .46 lost 7'. ¦ S 40 w 11.58 N 75 w 12. 2 cloudy no observation- N 45 w 12. 7 N 25 w 12.20 N 40 w 12.30 N 25 w 12.57 lost 3'. Dinner 3- 9 S 70 w 3.22 lost 4'. N 70 w 3-25 N 40 w 3-42 lost 5'. N 80 W 344 S 45 w w 3-544. 1 lost 3'. N 40 w 4.21 lost 7 — at 4.7 Grand salt lick) on the left tant Bayu de Cypre the interior. glaise (Big 2 miles dis- opposite in N 4.25 N 45 E 4.28 N 55 E 4-3 1 58 Washita 1804 [ November J S E 4h34 ' — river 170 y*? wide. 75 E 4.44 E 4-54 N 45 E 4.58 N 10 E 5- 4 N 20 W 5. 8 Encamped, made 1 2 perches, thermometer 730 — extremes 68°-78' miles 255 at 8* p.m. 3 Thursday 29 i-h Thermometer in air 72? in river water 62° — cloudy — wind south — rain ; remained in camp untill after dinner. Got off at 1.27 N 85 W i-34 rate per log 7 perches Saline Bayu ; about half a league north a salt spring. N 65 W 1.58 lost 5'. N 35 W 2.12 N 70 W 2.25 N 40 W 2-37 N 5 W 2.50 N 45 W 3.18 lost 11'. at3h'Ecora chicots.' N 3-33 lost 3'. N 80 E 3-45 S 60 E 3-46 S 30 E 3-57 S 45 E 4. 2 rapids. s 85 E 4. 8 N 70 E 4.18 lost 3'. N 30 E 4.22 lost 2'. N60 W 4-3i lost 6' rapids. N 3° E 4-37 N 40 E 4.42 N 70 E 4.49 Washita 59 N 5? 0' Encamped made 8 miles 2 perches. f 1804 thermometer at 8b p.m. 52? ex- [November * tremes 52°-76°. Friday 31 3l" Thermometer in air 38° in river wat : 6o° — clear — calm — river "risen 1 9 inches since last evening. Set off at 7- 7 N 7.22 rate per log 6 perches. N 80 W 7.25 S 45 W 7.30 S 3° W 7.46 lost 10' rapids. S 60 W 7.49 N75 W 7.53 lost 1'. N55 W 8.19 lost 6'. N 15 W 8.26 lost 3'. Breakfast 9-45 N 10 W 1 0.1 8 lost 6'. N 10.27 ' Fourche des Cadaux' on the left 100 yards wide — a hill 300 feet high. N 20 E 10.32 S 85 E 10.40 N 70 E 11. 5 lost 6'. N 40 W 1 1.45 lost 21'. landed to observe, © Ap: mer: dble: alt: 67° 25' 30" In: er : + 13' 42" latitude found 34° 11' 37"- Dinner 2. 0 N 15 E 2.15 N 50 E 2.18 c Bayu de Roches' on the left (rocky Creek). E 2.34 N65 E 2.40 N35 E 2.44 Encamped — Thermometer at 3? 60 Washita 1804 [ November J 57? went to visit a saline, made 7 miles 28 perches. December 1° t Saturday Thermometer in air 32° — river water 540 — clear — calm — river fallen 1 8 inches during the night. Set off at 7? 5" Isle de roches ' (rocky island) y mile long on the right. N35 E 7.23 lost 10' — rate per log 6 perches. N75 E 7.31 lost 5'. S 70 E 7.42 lost 6'. N65 E 7.52 N45 E 8. 0 N32 E 8.10 N 15 E 8.34 lost 13'. Breakfast 10.12 N55 E 10.18 S 80 E 1 1. 10 lost 20'. N 15 E 11.25 l°st II'' N 10 W 12. 5 lost 35' on the rapids: no obser vation. N45 E 12.15 'Bayu de l'isle de Mellon' on the right. E 12.27 Dinner 2.29 E 2.44 S 45 E 2.53 lost 4'. N45 E 2.56 N 3.36 lost 11' at 3h. 30' a saline distant 2 miles to the left, and Isle de mellon on the right. N 10 W 4.37 lost38' encamped — made 7 miles 148 perches — Thermometer at 8° p.m. 35° extremes 32°-58°. Washita 6 1 Sunday 2* Thermometer in air 30° in river water 50° [1804 clear — calm — river fallen 4 inch. [ December Set off at 7?35' N 10 W 7.44 rate per log 3 perches 'rapids com mence. N 45 E 7.50 N 75 E 7.55 S 30 E 8. 4 S 80 E 8.13 N 40 E 8.29 S 80 E 8.32 N 55 E 8.37 N 42 E 8.40 rapids end. Breakfast 10.7 N 42 E 10.35 rate Per l°g 5 perches. N 28 E 10.51 N 15 E 10.58 N 8 Wn. o N 12 W11.12 N 10 W11.43 lost 15' rate per log 3 perches. N 20 E 1 1 .46 rate per log 5 perches. Dinner 2. 3 N 20 E 2.30 at2?i9' slate quarry on the left and a Creek. N 55 E 2.23 'Isle de Chevreuil' (Deer island). N 40 E 2.39 lost 3' — Free stone and blue slate to the left. N 5 W 3 . 1 1 strong rapids rate per log 3 perch es — Bayu de prairie de Cham- pignole on the left. N 32 E 3.28 Thermometer 5g° — N 45 E 3.46 S 85 E 3.51 lost 11', rate per log 5^ perches. N 53 E 4. 7 Encamped: — made 6 miles 118 62 Washita 1804 [ perches — Thermometer at 8? p.m. December/ 38° extremes 30°-59°. Monday 3? Thermometer in air 38° in river water 48° — clear — calm — river fallen 8 inches. set off at 7? 1 2' N 35 W 7.20 rate per log 5 perches. N 20 W 7.31 N 10 E 8. 4 lost 8'. N 30 W 8.26 ' Bayu de l'eau froide' on the left. N 30 E 8.45 lost 3'. breakfast' 9.50 S 70 E 10. 8 rapid; rate 3 perches: N 75 E 10.20 N 10.40 N 10 E 11. 4 lost 18'. rate per log 6 perches. S 15 E 11.28 rapids 3 perches per log. E 1 1 .40 rate per log 5 perches, landed to observe © ap : mer : dble alt : 66° 12' 00" In: er: + 13' 48".5 lati tude found 34° 21' 25".5. Dinner 1.45 N35 E 2. 6 rate per log 3 perches. N 2.15 rate per log 5 perches. N 25 E 2.42 lost 22'. N 60 E 2.48 rate per log 3 perches. N 40 E 2-53 N 10 W 3. 8 lost 5' rate per log 5 perches. N 20 E 3-J3 E 3.28 lost 13'. N45 E 3-3^ N 80 E 3.35 rate per log 3 perches. N45 E 3.45 rate per log 4 perches. N 4. 1 at 3.57 rock promontory, hard Washita 63 flint, on the right with masses in ^804 the river. [December N 30 W 4?i8'arrived at the 'Chuttes' passed over and encamped. river 200 yards wide. made 7 miles 218 perches — Thermometer at 8h p.m. 44° ex tremes 38°-59? Tuesday 4'!" Thermometer in air 36° in river water 48° clear — calm — river fallen 2 inches. set off at 7.21 N 45 W 7.34 rate per log 4 perches. N25 W 8.15 at 8h passed a ledge of hard free stone rocks — rocky bottom, high rocky hill in front covered by pines a fine situation 350 feet high. N 60 W 8.25 W 8.33 Breakfast 9.59 Wio. 9 rate per log 2 perches. N 45 Wio. 1 2 rate per log 4 perches. N 20 W10.15 N 20 E 10.24 at 10.20 bald hill on the left — ar rive at the rapids. N 50 E y2 mile : a very violent rapid. landed to observe O ap : mer : dble alt : 65° 47' 4" In : er : + 13' 44" latitude found 34° 25' 48". Dinner 1.45 rocky pine hill 300 feet high on the right. N 20 W 1.52 rate 5 perches. N 60 W 1.55 64 Washita 1804 1 N 85 W 2? 3 'rate per log 6 perches : hills of blue December; slate (or shistus) to the left. S 80 W 2.17 N 40 W 72 perches — violent rapid, long detention. S 80 W 1 12 perches — encamped — 'Bayu de la Saline ' on the right, made 4 miles 164 perches — Thermome ter at 8h p.m. 36° extremes 36° - 50°. Wednesday 5'.h Thermometer in air 23? in river water 47° — serene — calm — river fallen 2 inches. Set off at 7.25 S 70 W 8. 2 lost 25' — rocky hills on both sides — rate per log 5 perches. S 55 W 30 perches — a violent rapid or cascade 4^ feet fall in 80 yards. Breakfast 10.57 S 70 W 1 1 . 1 5 rate per log 6 perches. W11.20 N 50 W11.29 N 40 W 144 perches, a strong rapid. — rocky hills on the right — high freshes 25 feet perpendicular above the present level of the river, at the end of this reach on the right a creek, called ' Fourche a Tigre ' (Tiger Creek) good land upon this Creek. Set off at 1 .45 S 80 W 1.55 rate per log 4 perches. Dinner 3.50 W3-55 Washita 65 N 70 W 4^23'rate per log 3 perches. f 1804 N 45 W y mile. [December Set off at 4.54 N 45 W 4.59 rate per log 3 perches. S 45 W 5. 1 Encamped made only 3 miles 128 perches. Thermometer at 8h p.m. 38? extremes 23°~56? Thursday 6th Thermometer in air 45? in river water 48? cloudy — wind S.W. light- river fallen 2 inches. Set off at 7.40 S 45 W 7.52 rate 4 perches. S 30 W 8. 7 hills to the left, good land to the right. S 55 W 8.20 lost 4'. N 80 W 8.37 lost 12'. N 30 W 8.52 lost 2'. Breakfast N 20 W y& Mile : a great rapid, very pre cipitous : 3 hours in getting over. Set off at 1. 8 S 75 W 1. 1 6 rate per log 5 perches, arrived at Ellis' camp a little below the ' Fourche a Calfat ', encamped made 2 miles and 32 perches, thermometer at 8h p.m. 56? ex tremes 45°-67°. S 25 W the course up the river, Calfat's , mouth y a mile upon the left. AT ELLIS CAMP. Friday 7th Thermometer in air 38? in river water 47? cloudy, wind N.W. river risen 4 66 Hot Springs 1804 [ inches. Took the Suns ap : mer : December; dble alt: 64° 59' 47" In:er: + 14' 5". latitude found 340 27' 31" Thermometer at 3h p.m. 50? at 8h p.m. 24? Saturday 8th At Ellis' Camp. Thermometer before sunrise io° — river water 43 ° — very serene — light wind N.W. river risen 4 inches. Took the Sun's meridian ap : dble alt 64° 46' 58" In:er:+i4' 19" latitude found 340 27' 27" being a differ ence of 4" from the result of yes terday : if we should not make any more observations here for the lati tude it may be considered as fixed at34°27'29". Thermometer at 3? p.m. 47? at 8? 26? HOT SPRINGS. Having determined to ascertain the latitude and longitude of this place with all due care and attention, the following series of observations was instituted for the latitude, using alternately the face of the Circle of reflection to the east and to the west, and reading off the angle from the three arms of the Index ; but finding the Index error lyable to change daily, I found it preferable to calculate each days latitude independ ently by itself, to that of taking the means of several days altitudes, more especially as we were approach ing the Solstice ; but I have preserved the results of the same face of the Instrument as one series, and taken the mean of the two series for the true Latitude. Hot Springs 67 Face ofthe Circle to the East. Deer. l$xh : Ap : mer : dble alt : 0 lower limb, ist Index 63-35''- 0" In 2d Dp. 63-34 -30 . er:+i5'-48" Latitude . . 16 -13 Means 63-34 _45 • 3d Index under the handle not apply the Micro 17th . . . . ist Index 63-25 -10 . 2's east limb from a Arietis. Times Distances Times Distances Times Distances ioh 31' 50" 55° 38/20" ioh 39/ 11" SS° 41' 20" 10b 47' II" 55° 44' SO" 10 33 57 55 39 1° 10 41 S3 55 41 40 10 5° IZ 55 45 55 10 36 46 55 40 10 10 44 49 55 43 45 10 53 48 55 47 20 Index error — l6T t6" The above may be commodiously divided into 3 Sets or otherwise at the pleasure of the calculator. ' Magnetic az: S 440 3c/ E with the Sun's lower limb -A.M. ¦»" 70 Hot Springs 1804 | Monday 17th December} Equal Altitudes 0 ap : dble alt : 450 49'. o " In : err : + 15' 48" Upper limb at 9k 44'. 5 b"y^ 1 Center 9 .47 .12 j- A.M. Lower limb 9 .49 .30 > Lower limb 2.27.57^ 1 Center 2 .30 .13 J-P.M. Upper limb 2 .32 .31 J These equal altitudes together with those of the preceeding day will correct the watch and ascertain her rate of going, from which the apparent times of the Lunar distances will be precisely known. aY 23 Equal Altitudes Oap:d6lealt: 43°42'25" In : err : + i5'27' Upper limb at ioh 8' 2' Center 10.10.13 Lower limb 10.12.25 The contacts P.M. lost by the intervention of clouds. Altitudes of the Sun's lower limb with Magnet : azim : At iob24'i2" Alt: 46V 5" Azim: S 43°E. 10.28.57 47.35.40 S 42 E. Ind :err :+ 15.27. Monday 24* Equal Altitudes Oap:dolealt: 43°32'47" Ind : err :+ i5'4i"6 Upper limb at iohi2' 33%' Center 10 14 43 Lower limb 10 16 55 Clouds intervened in the afternoon Wednesday 26* Set the watch back one hour to correspond nearly with the present time, no alteration being made in minutes & seconds. A.M. Watch supposed to have gained 45'. rA.M. Hot Springs 7* Equal Altitudes O ap : dfile alt : 32°43'.25" Ind : err : + 15' 27" Upper limb at 8* 40 . 5^" " Center 8 .41 .56^ -A.M. Lower limb 8 .43 .45 Clouds intervened in the afternoon. The last observations having been made when the Sun was barely clear of the vapor of the hot springs, I give the preference to the following observation made for the Correction of the Chronometer & for ascertaining the magnetic variation. At 9h 6' 50" ap : dble alt : O low! limb 390 16' 40" Magnet : azim : S 490 E Ind : err : + \cf.27". Lunar observations on the astronomical 25th Decern' took the following distances ofthe O and D's limbs [1804[ December Times Distances At 22A %'.%<)" $i°i4.'.o" In : er : Dble alt © lowr. limb by Dor. Hunter -15' 27// 22. 8 . 5 58.13 .0 22.11 .10 22.19 • ° 58.10 .0 . . . . . . 55.27.10 22.22 . 5 58. 9 .0 22.25 . 0 58. 8 .0 22.39 • 7 58. 4 .0 22.42 . 0 58. 3 .u 22.44.35 58. 2 .O . . . . . . 59.12 .10 22.48 .40 58. I .0 . . . • • ¦ 59-43 -'5 22.54 .37 57-59 .O . . . 60.25 -2° 22.57 .47 57.58 .0 . . . . . . 60.46 .20 Survey ofthe hot-spring Hill. 1? Station or place of Commencement on the west bank of the Creek opposite to the first or highest mass of Calcareous matter; Courses taken at this Station : N 400 E up the Valley adjoining the hot- spring hill ; and N 1 50 W the course of the Creek upwards : Thence 72 Hot Springs 1804 "1 S 200 E 18 perches to the bank of the Creek on December; the same side. At 8 per : opposite to the middle of the Natural hot-bed over the Creek, a small hot-spring at its commence ment. At 14 per : a hot-spring N? 3 opposite side of the Creek. S 25 W 14 per : to the hot-spring N? 4 six feet to the left in the side of the bank of the Creek. At 2 per : hot-spring N? 1 opposite side of the Creek: at 12 per : hot-spring N? 2. over the Creek distant 4 perches. S 3 E 34 per : nearly parallel to the Creek. At .7 per : the Center of the Cabin on the right hand, and spring N? 5 in the gravel over the Creek : at 20 per : several small springs over the Creek : at 22 per : the lowest hot-spring N? 6. — All the forgoing Courses have been nearly parallel to the Creek, the continuation of which is S 130 E. S 42 E 20 per : immediately cross the Creek, and at 4 per : the lowest calcareous mass. N 60 E 106 per : At 60 per : the valley on the right distant 20 per : S 66 E 30 per : to the Valley base of the hill : at 20 p. yellowish schistus. N 60 E 60 per : N.E. corner of the base of the hill. N 23 E 1 74 per : — 60 per : to the left the ridge is parallel to the Course. N 1 6 E 70 per : to a rocky ridge perpendicular to the course and precipice looking Hot Springs 73 down into a branch ofthe Cafatrun- ;i8c>4 ning to the right; the Creek above [December winds into the direction of the last course, the ridge to the left divides the Calfat from the hot-spring Creek. N 44 W -30 per S 84 W 72 per : to the top of a high ridge very narrow, connected with the hot-spring hill. S 45 W 60 per : descending the Valley : The top of the hill west of the Camp is in the direction ofthe course : at right angles on the left at the end of the course y mile distant is a gap or low place in the ridge contiguous to the hot- spring hill. S 31 W 80 per: down the valley — veins of the flinty rock nearly in the direction of the course and fissures at right an gles: Flint and hard siliceous stone above, Schistus at the base — and from thence to the place of begin ning nearly in the course of the Val ley. Courses and distances from Hot-spring Camp to the river Camp, commencing at the Cabin — Thence S i5°E 788 per :-^ to the Is.' Knoll 122 p. — to the Is.' branch 162 p. to the 2d branch 282 p.— to 3? df 322 p. — to 4? d? 502 p. — to crossing of hot-spring creek 614 per : and at the end ofthe course a branch. N 80 E 70 per : to the top of a ridge. 74 Hot Springs 1804 [ S 69 E 1 84 per : to the 2d branch. December J S 25 E 160 per: S 68 E 80 p. to the Big lick. N 55 E 200 p. to the 2d lick — at 160 p. 3d branch. N 82 E 534 p. to the 5l.h branch — at 168 p. the 4'.h branch. S 84 E 122 p. to the main Calfat — at 56 p. cross the last branch, the course of the Calfat is S3 8° E. S 74 E 178 p. to the 3d lick. S 54 E 304 p. to the river Camp. — at 94 p. a branch. 1805 "1 2620 perches, equal to 8 miles 60 perches. Januaryj Saturday 5*." At Ellis' Camp. Equal Altitudes. ap : dble Alt : 430 18' 30". Upper limb at gh 43' 10' Center 9. 45. 12 Lower limb 9-47- 19 Lower limb at 2. 59. 22 Center 3. 1. 27 Upper limb 3-3-33 As the same instrument was to be used for various purposes on the same day, the Index set for equal altitudes could not be screwed up untill the afternoon observation, and as the Index error was liable to change in the course of the day particularly when used much in the sun-shine, it is accordingly noted in the last example ; the slight error it might occasion, would not materially affect the result. Took the following alt : and azim : to ascertain the magnetic variation : At io!1 3' 42" a.m. © ap : dble alt : low! limb A.M. Ind: + 13' 15". P.M. Ind: + 13' 5". err: err: Hot Springs 75 47° «' 10" Magnet: Azim : S460 Ind : err : + 13' ("1805 15 • [January At noon the ap : dble alt : O low! limb was 650 8' 40" Ind: err: + 13' 9". Lat: deduced 340 27' 2 8 ".8 which is within o".2 of the mean of the former two observations. Distances taken between the O and D limbs At 2h 22' 45" Distance 540 1' 0" Ind : err : + 13' 5" 2. 25. 50 . . . 54. 2. 0 2.28.45 • • • 54- 3- ° Distances taken of the D 's west limb from Alde- baran At 7p i'. 56" Distance 840 52'. o" In : er : + 13' 5" Alt : dble J's lowr limb 640 17' 30" 7. 4. o 84. 51. o In: er: — 1 .20 7. 6. 6 84. 50. o by Dpr Hunter January 14* Monday. At a point which we passed in. ascending Novf 14}* — N 400 E 5h 6'. observed an Eclipse ofthe Moon. At i2h4o' p! watch. Beginning of the Eclipse — uncertain. 13.37 Beginning of total darkness — good observation. Took the following altitudes of the Sun to correct the Chronometer and ascertain the apparent time of the Eclipse. 15'? Tuesday At a point on the river bank which corresponds to the Courses and distances of our voyage upwards viz Nov! 14th N io° W 8* 8y ; took the Sun's alt. viz at iob 56' 24". ap : dble alt lowf limb 66? 36' 45" Ind: err: +12' 20". Thursday 17th At the Post of Washita, the same station where 76 Hot Springs 1805 "1 we observed on our way up, Took the Sun's altitude January; v\z . At 8" 53' 7" ap : dble alt : O low. limb 360 44' 45" In : er : + 12' 30". From the above observations the apparent time of the Eclipse may be found & the whole refered to the Meridian of the Post of the Washita. W\)t lititarsfop $w& x CambriDgc