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PREFACE.

THIS work is translated from the Zeitschrift of the
German Society for the Exploration of the Holy
Land. We have to acknowledge with gratitude the
permission accorded by the Committee of that
Society to translate and reproduce the work with all
its original illustrations. It will be found a worthy
pendant to Captain Conder's works. The notes are
mostly those furnished by Prof. Socin for the original
edition. The spelling has been chiefly conformed to
the usual practice in the published works of the
Fund.

i, Adam Street, Adelphi,
March, 1888.

CONTENTS,

PAGE
A. — Introduction  i-9
B. — Position, Extent, Limits and Administration af the
Jaulan  9-H
C. — The Nature of the Ground, Plants and Animals,
Irrigation and Climate, of the Jaulan  n-43
D.— The Inhabitants of the Jaulan  42-61
E. — Roads Communicating with the Jaulan  61-65
F.— Names and Places in the Jaulin, jn Alphabetical
Order, with the number of Inhabitants over ten
years of age  65-273
Index to the Names,

A 2

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

As the measurements in the illustrations have been made in
metres, a scale of metres and English feet is given, showing
their proportional values. Scale.

? METRES

l+ ENGLISH FEET.

i. Wooden Mortar with Pestle for Pounding Coffee .... 46
2. Coffee Pot  46
3. Circassian  58
4. Old Stone Wall Enclosure in Abu Kebir  66
5. Tribe Marks of the Beni Sakhr  68
6. Greek Inscription at el-Ahmediyeh  7°
7. Nine-branched Candlestick at el-Ahmediyeh .... 71
8, 9. Ornament at el-Ahmediyeh  ,..-. 72
10. Plan of Building at el-Ahseniyeh  73
11. Cell Work at el-Ahs£niyeh  74
12-14. Fragments of Ornamentation found at el-
Ahseniyeh  74
1 5. Basalt Statue at el-' Al  82
16. Greek Inscription and Stone Ornament  83

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

FIG.

page:

17. Fragment of Roman Cornice  84
18. Side View of Sarcophagus at el-' Al  85
19. Inscription on Door-post in 'Ayun  98
20. View of eastern Shore of Sea of Galilee  104
21. Layers of Basalt Stone Wall  108
22. View of el-Breikah and Tell el-Akkasheh  113
23. Ornamented Lintel at Breikah  115
24. Spring of Arch  116
25-27. Ornamented Lintels at el-Butmiyeh  116
28. Ruin at ed-Dikkeh  120
29. Winged Figure on Basalt Stone at ed-Dikkeh .... 121
30-33. Fragments of Ornamentations at ed-Dikkeh .... 122
34. Stone Circle and Dolmen at Jisr Rukkad  124
35. Dolmen near er-Rawiyeh   126
36. Dolmen at Dabura  128
37. Bedawin Tomb at Kulat el-Husn  129
38. Cross Ornament at Esbitteh  ... 135
39. The Village of Fik  137
40, 41. Ornamentation at el-Fik  139
42. Cufic Inscription at el-Fik   140
43, 44. Greek Inscriptions at el-Fik  140
45. Column with Seven-branched Candlestick and
Hebrew Inscription  141
46, 47. Ornamentations at el-Fik  141
48-51. Ornamentations on Lintels at el-Fik .... .... 142
52. Column at el-Hammeh   153
53. Capitals at el-Hammeh  153
54. Roman Theatre at el-Hammeh  154
55-58. Sections of Seat and Mouldings ....  155
59. Caves at el-Hammeh  157
60. Bases at Jibin  163
61. Ionic Capital ....  164

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE

62. Underground Chamber  165
63. Jisr er-Rukkad  .... 166
64, Ornamented Lintel at Kefr Harib  171
65. Greek Inscription at Kefr Harib  171
66. Plan of Sheikh's House in Kefr el-Ma  172
67. 'Ain Kefr el-Ma  173
68. Statue or Idol in Basalt Stone  175
69. Altar (part of the Statue) at Kefr el-Ma  176
70. Plan of Sliding Tombs  178
71. Sketch of Sliding Tombs  178
72. Door in Khan el-'Akabeh  181
73. Ornamented Stone in Khan el-'Akabeh  182
74-76. Ornamented Lintels at Khan Bandak  183
77, 78. Ornamentation at Khisfin  185
79. Ruin in Khisfin  186
80. Kh. el-'Ashek  188
81. Doorofes-Sur  191
82, 83. Arch Stones  196
84, 85. Plan and Section of Sarcophagi  197
86-88. Plan and Views of a Sarcophagus  198
89, 90. Section of Top and Base of Sarcophagus .... 199
91, 92. Section of Bases of Columns at Kulat el-Husn .... 201
93. Capitals at Kulat el-Husn  201
94. Cone Ornament  202
95. Section of Column, showing Shaft  202
96. Arch Stone  2°3
97. Section of Pipe of Aqueduct  203
98. Cornice at Kulat el-Husn  203
99. Old Ruin at Kulat el-Husn  204
100. El-Habs at Kulat el-Husn  204
101. Scroll Ornamentation on Yellow Stone  210
102. Leaf Ornamentation on Basalt  211

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

103-106. Greek Inscriptions  212, 213
107. Plan, showing Mode of Building Walls  223
108. Old Building in Nuaran  225
109. Ornamentation in Stones  225
no. Capitals in Nuaran ....  226
in. Key Stone  227
112. Door in er-Rafid  227
113,114. Ornamented Lintels in er-Rafid  228
115. Plan of Church in er-Rafid  228
116. Stone Wall  228
117. Ancient Building Restored  232
118,119. Ornamentations on Lintels  232
120. Lintel Stone with Ornamental Crosses and Greek
Inscriptions  233
121. Cross Ornament at Rumsaniyeh  233
122. Ornamentation on Stone at Rumsaniyeh  233
123, 124. Ornamentation on Stone at Rumsaniyeh .... 234
125. Greek Inscription  235
126. Crater of Tell Abu en-NSda  248
127. Leaf Impression on Basalt Stone  249
128. Fragment of a Bird in Basalt  250
129. Tell Abu en-N£da and Tell el-Uram from Kh. 'Ain
el-H6r  251
130. Fountain at Umm el-Kansttir  260
131,132. Plan and Arch of Fountain  261
133. Figure of a Lion on Stone at Umm el-Kanatir .... 262
134. Figure of an Eagle in Low-relief on Stone at Umm
el-Kanatir  .... 262
135. Entrance to Old Building in Umm el-Kanatir .... 263
136. Niche with Ornamentation  263
137-141. Ornaments and Mouldings on Stones, Sections,
&c, at Umm el-Kanatir  264, 265

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

142. Capital at el-Yehudiyeh  271
143. Section of el-Yehudiyeh  271
144. Top Stone at el-Yehudiyeh ...  272
MAPS AND PLANS.
Map of the Jaulan, reduced from the Surveys of
Gottlieb Schumacher, C.E., by George Armstrong. Frontispiece PAGE
Plan of el-Hammeh  149
Plan of Kiilat el-Husn  195
View in Wady es-Semakh  267

NOTE.— For Sections of the Country and other descriptions
of places mentioned in this work, see ' Across the Jordan,' by
the same author.

Fold out

THE JAULAN.

A. — INTRODUCTION.
The Jaulan and Gaulanitis are names for one and
the same \ act of country in the middle of the now
Turkish province of Syria. In the west, bordered by
the Jordan fissure, it forms at the same time a part
of the so-called East Jordan land, or Eastern Pales
tine. The Old Testament speaks of a place in
Bashan, in the jurisdiction of the Manasseh tribe,
called Golan (Deut. iv. 43), which in Joshua xx. 8,
is mentioned as a free city, and in 1 Chron. vi. 71, as
a Levite city. This probably answers to the present
Sahem ej-Jaulan in Western Hauran.* Josephus
(1 Wars, iv. 4) calls the place Golan, and the sur
rounding country Gaulanitis.
After the death of Herod the Great it must have
been given over to the Tetrarch Philip, and was at
* Comp. Schumacher, 'Across the Jordan,' p. 91.
B

THE JAULAN.

this time in its most flourishing period : a large
number of towns covered the middle and northern
part of the western slope, which, though stony, was
well watered and rich in pasture land. Some of
these, as Seleucia, Sogane, and Gamala, were turned
into fortifications according to Josephus (2 Wars,
xx. 6). The discovery of various extensive ruins,
which preserve their Roman names at the present
day, place the former prosperity of these towns
beyond doubt.
The remains of many of these old ruins, as will be
seen by the following description, are of undoubted
Jewish character ; and their architectural character
istics prove that the Jewish capability could make
itself freely felt even near Roman superiority.
During the Byzantine dominion over Gaulanitis,
Harit V. el-'Araj (530-572), called by the Romans
Aretas, and the most distinguished of the Ghassa-
nidic Phylarchs, was placed by Justinian at the head
of all the Arabian tribes in the Byzantine jurisdiction,
which comprehended Hauran and Damascus, as well
as the bank of Jordan, and therefore the Jaulan and
the Belka.
Already earlier, under the predecessors of that
Prince, viz., Amr I. (248-263) I. (248-263), Jabala I.
(330-36o), Ma'ura, the spouse of Harits II. (360-373),
the Christians had founded settlements in the East
Jordan land, and especially monasteries, which at that

THE J A ULAN.

time were more frequently established in what is now
called the Hauran than in the Jaulan. But owing to
the invasion of Syria by the Persian king, Chosroes
II., in 616, Christianity suffered a relapse, and this,
coupled with the sect-hatred and party feeling of the
Patriarchs of Constantinople, prepared the ground for
the new teaching and sovereignty of Islam. The
probably Persian name, Telestan, applied to the
northern part of the country, is a memorial of the
conquest of the Jaulan by Chosroes.
After the sanguinary defeat of the Byzantines at
the River Yarmuk (634), in the southern extremity of
the Jaulan, this land, with the whole of Syria, fell into
the hands of the Arabs, who, however, have only per
petuated themselves here by monuments of mean
architecture, although they may have kept the country
itself at its highest state of existing culture. Never
theless, internal dissensions amongst the Moslem rulers
added to the perpetual changes of succession, produced
a retarding influence on the quiet progress of develop
ment, and when the armies of the Crusaders entered
Syria they found a country whose decay had already
commenced. In Baldwin II.'s reign (11 18), the sway of the Cross
was again extended over the Jaul&n. Whether the
numberless crosses and Christian emblems which are
found upon the ruins of the Jaulan date from the time
of the Frankish rule, or that of the earlier Christian
B 2

THE JAULAN.

period, is difficult to determine ; they may probably
be ascribed partly to one and partly to the other, as
they appear in Nu'aran, one of the cities mentioned
in the history of the Crusades (' Ritter, Erdk.' xvi.
p. 169), and also in proximity to el-Ahmediyeh, near
the name loxctin (Justinian ?). From the decline of
the Christian sovereignty in the Jaulan, and its recon-
quest by the Moslems, down to modern times, there is
little to relate.
Through invasions of the Mamelukes and Mongo
lians in Syria the country seems to have sunk lower
and lower, and to have become in time the favourite
resting-place of the nomadic Bedawin tribes, who had
no interest in the preservation of buildings, or the
guarding of firmly established abodes, whilst in the
plundering and subjection of the few remaining
settlements they found their pleasure and advantage.
In the year 15 18 the Osman Sultan Selim I. took
Syria, and therewith also the Jaulan, from the Mame
lukes, and bound it to the Turkish kingdom, to which
it has belonged till the present day.
The name of the country has never been altered in
all its changes of rule and circumstance, and the indi
vidual sounds remained the same, only the pronuncia
tion of the first consonant (g) has softened in the
usual way, and the diphthong of the first syllable
(au) is in the vulgar tongue of to-day, as formerly in
the Old Testament, contracted into (o).

THE J A ULAN. 5

The following description mainly refers to the tract
of land which is identical with the ancient Gaulanitis.
Its boundaries are for the most part so clearly defined
by nature that they have nearly always remained the
same, with the exception that in the east the present
demarcation is scarcely the old one, because on this
side it was constantly altering according to the judg
ment of the existing Mutasarrif or Governor of the
Hauran, and was sometimes removed further back,
and again sometimes more forward, into the wide
high plateau. As the surveyed map was to serve
also as a plan for railway communication between
Akka and Haifa, the sea-coast towns of Hauran
and Damascus, it had the approval of the Vali, or
Governor-General of Syria. So that to its author
was granted the assistance of the officials belonging
to the Liva of Hauran and the Kada el-Kuneitrah.
He was consequently able to compare their opinion
upon the orthography of the names of places with
those collected in the places themselves, as well as
to fix the boundaries of the district according to the
testimony of the revenue officers.
The triangulation of the most important points was
made by means of a theodolite. In the ground
survey a water-level was used, and a Koniograph
prepared by Herr D. O. Kersten, and very kindly
left by him for this purpose, for which important
service I must render this gentleman my best thanks.

THE JAULAN.

The heights were obtained by an adjusted aneroid
barometer, whilst the sea-level of the Lake of Tiberias
— 682-5 was considered the basis of my calculations.
The divisions into degrees of length and breadth, as
well as the triangulation, were finally executed and
joined on to the large Map of the English Palestine
Exploration Fund (Map of Western Palestine), for
which triangulation I had plenty of material at my
command. The scale of the map is that of the
English map, viz., ' one inch to a mile.'*
The examination of the ruins could only be done
disjointedly, according as the object of the work
above pointed out permitted. I cannot, therefore,
unconditionally guarantee an uninterrupted complete
ness in the description of the ruined places with
which the Jaulan is simply swarming, for in addition
to this the great distrust exhibited by the natives
against travellers increases the difficulties of the
examination of the land. The natives from fear of
new taxes took care to conceal almost everything,
so that information and guides could only be reached
by threats of prison, and, as a rule, the discovering of
ruins had to depend entirely upon myself.
A further difficulty consists in establishing the
orthography of the names, for only very few of the
Bedawin are acquainted with writing, and this always
* To accompany this work it has been reduced to the scale
of f of an inch to a mile.

THE J A ULAN.

in so imperfect a manner that one comes upon glaring
mistakes at every enquiry. The only thing that
remained to me — most of the official books at these
ruined places being missing — was to put frequently
the same questions bearing on this to the different
tribes, and to settle the orthography from their
answer. Guides acquainted with the language who hang
about in the towns, Tiberias and Safed for instance, I
hold as having very little weight as authorities on the
orthographical correctness of the names,for it is exactly
these persons who, from ignorance of the country and
grammar, and above all 'pour vous faire plaisir,'
make assertions which by observation at the places
themselves are proved incorrect. The Khatib, or
scribe of a village, is still often, in spite of his sim
plicity, the most trustworthy source of help.
I was also careful, in drawing up the list of names
of the places, to rigidly adhere to the original nomen
clature, and not to be led into error by attempts at
etymology. Owing to the swampy river prevailing there in
summer time, the Huleh marshes were not visited ;
therefore the already-mentioned Sogana, presumably
on the west of Jaulan (Josephus, 4 Wars, i, 1), is
not marked on the map. Also the small northern
end of the Sharah of Jaulan, near Banias, which
includes a part of the southern slope of Hermon, had

THE J A ULAN.

to remain unexamined. It may be here remarked that
the ez Zawiyeh esh-Shurkiyeh of south-east Jaulan, a
district inclosed by the Yarmuk, Rukkad and Allan
rivers, with also the neighbouring country to the east,
has been already set down by me on a map, and pub
lished by the English Palestine Exploration Fund,
on the scale of f of an inch to a mile, in the book,
' Across the Jordan,' 1886. At my first and more super
ficial journey through the Jaulan and the Hauran, in
December, 1883, the Nahr er-Rukkid was pointed out
to me as the boundary between the Jaul&n and the
Hauran ; and I consequently agreed that the survey
of the Jaulan should extend to Nahr er-Rukkad in
the east. Later, however, it transpired that the Nahr
el-' Allan was regarded as the boundary line between
the two districts. As a result of this mistake, the
following report and illustrating map do not include
the whole of the Jaulan. Nevertheless, recently the
place Sahem ej-Jaulan, which in 1884 was in the
administrative jurisdiction of the Jaulan, has again
been handed over to the Haurin seat of government in
Sheikh Sa'ad. Thus the extent and jurisdiction of the
one district of Hauran is still not definitely settled.
As to the orography of north Jaulan, I shall limit
myself to observations made on my first journey ; for
this district formed the basis of the researches of my
honoured friend and co-traveller, Herr Dr. Fritz
Noeblung, in the year 1885, and will be given in

THE J A ULAN.

detail in his geological description. With reference
to the historical dates obtained by individual infor
mation at the places visited, in the absence of other
literary testimony, I had to content myself with the
use of the following works : —
Josephus, in the English Translation of William
Whiston (Oxford, 1839); Ritter's 'Erdkunde,' vol.
xv., which contains an abstract of the important
journeys of Burckkardt and Seetzen ; Gustav. Flugel's
'History of the Arabians' (Leipzig, 1864), and
Baedeker's 'Palestine and Syria' (1875). I leave the
reader to draw from the collected material of descrip
tions, &c, further conclusions upon the historic past
of the places treated here.
B. — POSITION, EXTENT, LIMITS, AND ADMINISTRA
TION OF THE JAULAN.
The entire area of modern Jaulan, including ez
Zawiyeh esh-Shurkiyeh and Sha'rah in the north, is
about 560 square miles. By the Jaulan is meant only
the high plateau and a part of its declivity, viz., the
north-west portion sloping from the Huleh marshes :
and bounded in the west by Jordan, south-west by the
Lake of Tiberias, north by the declivities of Hermon
and the Wady el-Adjam, north-east by Jedur or Nahr
er-Rukkad, and east and south by Hauran or the
Nahr el-Allan, and in the south by 'Ajlun or the

THE J A ULAN.

River Yarmuk. Politically, the Jaulan forms one of
the administrative districts (Kaimakamiyeh) of the
Sanjak or the Liva of Hauran (with the seat of
government of a Kaimakam in el-Kuneitrah), and
as such is under the Mutasarrif of the Hauran at
Sheikh Sa'ad.
The Jaulan itself is divided into four districts : (i)
Mu diriyeh esh-Sharah (in the north), chief town and
residence of the Mudir is Mejdel esh-Shems ; (2) el-
Kuneitrah (in the centre), chief town and residence of
the Kaimakamiyeh is el-Kuneitrah ; (3) ez Zawiyeh
el-Ghurbiyeh (south), chief town and residence of the
Mukhtar is Kefr el-Ma ; (4) ez-Zawiyeh esh-Shurkiyeh,
(east), chief town and residence of a Mukhtar is esh-
Shejarah. The Mudir and Mukhtar are inferior officials of the
Kaimakam. The Mukhtars, properly only village
magistrates, have to look after the punctual payment
of the taxes, and are responsible for them. They
receive no salary, and must even support the govern
ment officers whilst on their expeditions ; but they
are at the same time exempt from taxation, and may
present an account in el-Kuneitrah for the fodder
consumed by the horses of the gen-d'armes, which is
discharged according to the letter of the law. The
heads of the chief families of the country, the village
sheikhs of Fik, Skufiyeh, Kefr el-Ma, el-'Al, Khisfin,
and esh-Shejarah, form an administrative council ;

THE J A ULAN.

these, with occasionally a representative of the Jer-
kessen and Bedawin tribes, compose a council side
by side with the government official. The first are,
however, usually represented by the village Sheikh
Kefr el-Ma, who therefore counts for the fourth
member of the proper Mejlis el-Idara (conseil ad-
ministratif). The Mudir of Mejdel esh-Shems ought
properly to be an independent official ; for the most
part he receives his instructions from el-Kuneitrah.
Meanwhile a plan appears to have been projected to
separate this Mudinyeh from Jaulan, and to assign it
to Merj Ayun.
The entire armed force of Kada el-Kuneitrah con
sists of from fifteen to twenty mounted gen-d'armes
(Khaiyal el-Mireh), an officer and a police soldier :
which is quite enough in times of peace to settle the
small feuds between the tribes, and maintain authority
of the government.
C. — THE NATURE OF THE GROUND, PLANTS AND
ANIMALS, IRRIGATION AND CLIMATE, OF
THE JAULAN.
According to the nature of the soil, the Jaulan may
be divided into two districts : (i) stony in the northern
and middle part, (2) smooth in the south and more
cultivated part. Both divisions form a part of the
great high plateau, which, in the widest sense, is

THE J A ULAN.

known as Hauran : and which extends from Hermon
and Damascus on the south to the Steppe Hamad
and 'Ajlun, .eastward to the Syrian Desert and Jebel
el-Druz, and westward to the Jordan.
The plateau of the Jaulan, commencing at a height
of 974 feet in the south (Shafat Mobarah), gradually
reaches a height of more than 3,625 feet in the north
(Merj el-Buk'ati), independently of the volcanic
mountains, which reach a height of 4,244 feet, and
has therefore an average height of 2,950 feet above
the level of the Mediterranean Sea, or 3,632 feet above
the Lake of Tiberias.
In its diagonal direction the land makes a quick
(and as a consequence of the lava stream) terrace-like
ascent from the western Jordan slope, from an average
height of 1,640 feet in the east to a watershed of
3,000 feet in between the foot of the Tell Abu en-
Neda and the Hami-Kursu. It then slopes towards
the bed of the Nahr er-Rukkad, and again ascends
east of this latter towards Hauran. The highest point
of the plateau lies in the north, whilst in the south
west corner of ez Zawiyeh el-Ghurbiyeh, conse
quently at the further extremity of Jaulan, the lowest
part is found.
Taking Sharah and Ghor into consideration, there
is a matter of the significant difference in height of -f-
4,460 feet (about Mejdel esh-Shems), and — 656 feet
(Gh6r at ed-Duer), that is a difference of 5,116 feet.

THE JAULAN. 13

Stony Jaulan (esh-Sharah, el-Kuneitrah and the
upper part of ez Zawiyeh esh-Shurkiyeh) is an alto
gether rough and wild country, covered with masses of
lava which are poured out from the countless volcanoes
and spread in every direction. Although of little use
agriculturally, it is all the more valuable as pasturage
for the numerous herds of the Bedawin, and serves as
the ideal of such a ' land of spring pasturage,' Belad
er-Rabi. Wherever between the hard, solid basaltic
blocks there is a spot of earth, or an opened rift
visible, the most luxurious grass springs up both
in winter and spring time, and affords the richest
green fodder for the cattle of the Bedawin ; for
this part of the Jaulan possesses a great source
of wealth in its perennial springs, so that the heat
of summer never scorches all the vegetation, and
round the springs there is always a fringe of
green. A man travelling through the country at
two different periods of the year, say about August
or September, and then in February or March, would
scarcely recognise it. In summer, bare masses of
stone block up the road and hem the traveller in at
every step, and the country is of a monotonous dismal.
character ; whilst in the spring the former, as well as
the heaps of ruins, are overgrown with grass to the
height of a man. Then the myrtles and oak bushes
are no longer alone in springing out from the lava
blocks; the ruins have disappeared, the land is clothed

r4 THE JAULAN.

in verdure, and it is only the stumbling of the beasts
on the impassable road, the ascent of ever fresh blocks
of rock, and a glance at the characteristic conical-
shaped rows of volcanoes, which brings to the traveller
the conviction that he is treading the same Jaulan
under a different aspect. As a consequence of the
efflorescent volcanic lava and deposited ashes the soil
is very productive, and besides grass, wheat, and
barley, peas (Hummus), lentils, beans, camel fodder
(Kursanneh), white maize and yellow maize flourish.
There is thus a large space which is comparatively
stoneless ; for instance, the plateau near the watershed,
which is bounded by the mountains Tell el-Baram,
Tell el-Uram, Tell Abu en-Neda, Tell Abu Yusef, the
spurs of the Hami Kursu and the Tellul el-Mukhfy,
and which is tended and cultivated by the Jerkessen.
Even the crater of the mighty Tell Abu en-Neda is
cultivated, and said to bear most valuable produce.
Recently, in the lowlands of the Huleh lake, where
there is no lack of water, rice has been sown, the
quality of which leaves nothing to be desired, and
which forms a more lucrative article of commerce
than grain — the Hauran soil appearing to have been
made for its successful cultivation. The yellow,
so called European maize (dura franje, or safra), is
again sown in the latter part of summer on the well-
watered places of the plateau, and thus the land
yields a double crop. An excellent quality of

THE JAULAN. 15

tobacco flourishes in the north country near Za'6ra ;
it is concealed in beds of manure so as to elude
detection by the officers, and as soon as the leaves
wither the inveterate Bedawin smokers use it un
prepared. A few years back stony Jaulan must have been
covered with a thick growth of forest trees. This
is proved by the names Shafat es-Sindianeh, ' oak
top,' and the designation formerly given to the
volcanoes Tellul el-Hish,* ' an ambush ' ; the still
extensive oak woods at the foot of Tell Abu en-
Neda and Tell Abu el-Khanzir, the thick oak under
wood of the declivities of Tell el-Ahmar, Hami
Kursu, Shafat es-Sindianeh, and the beautiful oak
trees which singly and in groups cover the low
plateau in the north of the Batihah. Throughout
the north the evergreen oak is of the Sindian (stone
oak) kind, with small prickly leaves and little acorns.
The Mallul kind is rarer. Whilst in the north of the
Batihah there is a kind of winter oak (Quercus
aegilops) to be found with a thick rough bark and
smooth large oak-apples in wide shallow cups. Of
other trees we find the evergreen Butmeh (Pistavia
terebinthia), which is widely distributed. These are
mostly found in the vicinity of the oaks, but are
* Burckhardt has made this name known under the form of
"Hersch." (Comp. ' Burckhardt's Journey,' i. 438. J. G.Wetz-
stein, d. Batanaischi Giebelgebirge, 1884, io f.)

16 THE J A ULAN.

easily distinguished by their most beautiful growth
and better and stronger shade. A single butm is
often found alone in the midst of fields shading the
grave of some holy Moslem. It then receives the
surname Fakireh ('poor'), is thereby safe from all
outrage, and can attain unmolested a great age. No
Moslem would dare to break off a branch or even
remove a withered twig, for the saying goes that such
a deed would bring upon it heavy divine punishment.
In proof, the Bedawin Fellahin relate with alacrity
many examples to the traveller, as for instance, one
man, after some outrage on the Fakireh, broke his
arm ; or the donkey, carrying the sacred burden, fell
down dead ; or the room in which the wood was
stored fell in and injured the possessor ; in fact, never
once, was a branch bent down but it called up the
judgment of the divine wrath. Once, when a Fakireh
standing in a village obstructed my inspection, I
asked my guide either to break off or bend down one
of the branches ; but neither requests nor threats
availed, and on undertaking the matter myself I saw
the simple-minded Fellahin regarding me with horror
and awaiting the fate that was to overtake me. A
similar deed is, however, not to be recommended to
a traveller, unless he is furnished with good recom
mendations from the Government. Another kind of
lore is the Zarura, or white thorn, which, however,
like the myrtle growing on the slopes of the Wady

THE JAULAN. 17

Dabura, is rarer. Along the watercourses, and
without exception in the ravines of the wadies con
veying water, we find the perpetually blooming rose-
coloured oleander (Difleh), the wild fig (Tineh), and
less frequently the tamarisk (tarfa), the plane tree
(dulba), the carob bean tree (kharrub), and the wild
vine (dalieh pi., dawili). Reeds, Kasab or Kuseb,
oiten entirely clothe slopes where there are small
gushing springs. On the western slope of central
Jaulan (Dabura) liquorice (?) (Umm es-Sus) root is
found very plentifully. Stony Jaulan, as indeed the
entire plateau, has very few fruit trees. One scarcely
sees, even in the villages, a Rummaneh (pome
granate bush) or a fig tree ; Za'dra, and Ain Fit are
exceptional. The Circassians are also beginning to
cultivate trees, although they greatly prefer the
cultivation of pasture-land ; but still every now and
again in el-Kuneitrah one finds trees bearing fruit.
On the other hand, these same Circassians are
rapidly lessening the oak woods, as they cut down the
fine trunks and carry them on their horrible squeak
ing two-wheeled carts, drawn by oxen, to sell as
timber. One such I recently met in South Hauran,
where for centuries ho cart can possibly have
traversed the stoneless ground.
An attempt at vine cultivation was recently made
by the Emir of Arab el-Fadel in the neighbour
hood of Sk£k, but his kinsmen apparently preferred
• C

1 8 THE J A ULAN.

resting under a shady pavilion ta the work of the
vineyard. The slopes of the plateaus towards the'Jordan and
the Lake of Huleh are tolerably steep, and as their
tops are crowned by rugged blocks of lava, which
decompose piece-meal and roll down below, the last
part of the ascent is most difficult.
The wadies resemble narrow, and often frightfully
deep, chasms, and into their yawning depths rush
seaward flowing streams. One of the deepest and
steepest of these channels is the Wady el-Yehudiyeh,
near the ruin of the same name. The walls, which
are basaltic in the upper division, and composed of
limestone in the lower, are perpendicular, often
indeed overhanging, and with a width of 656 feet in
the upper part of the wady, attain a height of not
less than 492 feet.
What finally distinguishes stony Jaulan from the
southern, and also the Hauran plateau, is the large
number of extinguished volcanoes.
One group of these is found in the east, near the
Rukkad, with the rocky el-Kulei'ih crater as the
most southern point, and ending in the north with
the Hami Kursu, the lava of which reaches el-
Kuneitrah. The most marked and well known of their summits
is Tell el-Firas, 3,110 feet high, whilst the Hami
Kursu reaches a height of 3,930 feet. Tellul el-Humr

THE J A ULAN. 19

and Tellul el-Asbah lie somewhat east. A second
group extends almost as a continuation of the first in
a north-west-northerly direction from el-Kuneitrah to
the Birket er-Ram. At first a low hill range, they
reach, at Tell esh-Sheikhah, a height of 4,245 feet.
There is a third group, which joins the second one in
the north, surrounds Merj el-Buk'ati, and runs parallel
to the first in a southerly direction to Tell Abu Yusef.
3,375 feet, making this the most southerly spur. The
largest and most interesting peak of this group is
Tell Abu en-Neda, with a maximum height of 4,124
feet ; very well marked, though subordinate, is the
Tell el-Uram, 4,042 feet. Further, the small Tell el-
Baram, 3,720 feet, and the peak Tell el-Ahmar in the
north, 4,060 feet, whose lava stream reaches the slopes
of the marshes of Huleh.
In the south, somewhat westward, the double-
peaked Tell Abu el-Khanzir, 3,819 feet, rises.
Besides these high and extraordinary cone-shaped
craters, there are the low hills of er-Rumsaniyeh,
Tell el-Talaya, Umm ed-Dananir, and Tell el-Ferj.
These follow the extended course of the third
group towards the south, and finally the Tell
Jdkhadar ends them. This latter is equally dis
tant south with el-Kulei'ah, but 2 miles more west
from the chain of volcanic groups, which includes a
length of 20 miles by a breadth of 2 miles. In
earlier descriptions of travels these mountains of
C 2

THE J A ULAN.

north Jaulan are distinguished by the general name
of ' Tellul el-Hesh,' or ' el-Hish,' but careful inquiry
on this point proves that if this name has not entirely
disappeared from the memory of the people, it is
very rarely known. I have, therefore, not written
this name on the map. Although these volcanoes
ought to be carefully considered in a detailed account
of the places and names of Jaulan, I shall neverthe
less refer again, readers, so far as th&r geological
connection with upper Jaulan is concerned, to the
detailed geological examination by my travelling
companion, Dr. Noeblung, to which I have appended
my testimony concerning the craters of Tell el-Faras
and Tell Abu en-Neda.
South Jaulan — that is, ez Zawiyeh el-Ghurbiyeh
— is, in opposition to North Jaulan, from Khisfin
onward, stoneless. The lava-rock surface gradually
disappears, and in its place is a rich dark-brown lava
soil, which is .prevalent in the whole of the Hauran,
and the fertility of which cannot be too highly praised.
Grain — i.e., wheat and barley — flourish here in large
quantities, and with Turkish maize (dura) and
Simsim are almost the exclusive cultivations. Ori
the other hand, there is less pasture-land in the level
plains of ez Zawiyeh el-Ghurbiyeh, and the grass
withers very quickly in summer. As perennial
springs are lacking in the high plateau, the villages
are mostly built on the edge of the plateau, where

THE J A ULAN.

abundant springs are to be found to this day.
Instead of the tent Bedawin of the north-west
stony Jaulan, we find in the Zawiyeh colonized
peasants, who have established large villages and
cultivated the ground as much as their primitive
agricultural implements permit. Much good land,
therefore, lies fallow, for the Fellahin only cultivate
an area round their village which is not too large
for them to reach and cultivate in a day. How
many thousands of acres are languishing for rational
cultivation, and how easy it would be in this
wide, healthy, high plateau of Jaulan and Hauran,
to develop a settled industry which would yield
valuable results !
The culture on the high plateau of South Jaulan
is nearly extinct. The eye seeks in vain for a shady
branch, although it may occasionally happen that
one's wish is gratified by a terebinth (butm) hung
with gay-coloured rags, which have been devoted to
the Neby (Holy One) by distressed women and sick
persons ; these, however, may be counted. On the
slopes, however, and wherever the axe does not reach,
there is a more flourishing plant growth.
The wide smooth Wady Masaud show a really fine
amount of oak trees, which reaches to the high
plateau, bordered by the Yarmuk in the extreme
south-west corner of Jaulin. The Kulat el-Husn is
also covered with beautiful isolated oaks and tere-

THE JAULAN.

binths (butm). The Wady es-Semakh grows, beside
some oaks and terebinths, a thorn-bush called Sidr,
and a stroll along the narrow east-coast strip of
Bahr et-Tubariya soon brings us to the Dom-bush,
which has thorns bent inwards, and which seems
peculiarly indigenous to the Jordan valley and the
land round the Lake of Tiberias. There is a distinc
tion between two kinds of these Dom-bushes, viz.,
Dom-sidr and Dom-rubet (? red) ; both have small
light-green thin leaves similar to the terebinthus
foliage, and bear a delicious hawberry kind of sweet
fruit, which are eaten with appreciation by the
Bedawin, and also gathered and sold in the cities.
In the upper Jordan valley the Dom-bush seldom
attains a greater height than 13 feet, and never
ceases being green, blooming, and fruitful, so that the
traveller in the hot Jordan valley has at least one
enjoyment. Although it is the only shade-affording
plant of the upper Jordan valley, a man only avails
himself of its shelter from necessity, for the slightest
breath of wind brings the malicious thorns in contact,
which, in spite of the greatest caution, manage to
bury themselves in the dress and skin of the rester.
The wood is white, and extraordinarily hard and
tough. In fruit trees, also, the ez Zawiyeh is poor ; it is only
in the village and Wady Fik, and in the tributary,
Wady Abud, that we find beautiful olive groves.

THE JAULAN. 23

These are cultivated by the inhabitants of Fik, and
produce a good yearly crop, which supplies the
surrounding country with olive-oil, so rarely met
with in Hauran.
On the western declivities of ez Zawiyeh, towards the
sea.Kharrub and Abhar bushes (lilac, Styrax officinalis,
according to the ' Memoirs ' of the Palestine Explora
tion Fund) grow singly; and in the Yarmuk and
Rukkad valley are oleanders, plane trees, wild grapes,
and canes. The villages have some pomegranates
and fig trees.
In spite of this absence of wood growth in the
southern high plateau, it may be assumed from
tradition, and the names still existing, as Sirb el-
Butm, Sirbit el-Khararib (Terebinthus and Kharrub
woods), Enjum el-Butm, Enjum el-Abhar (Hill of
Terebinthus, Hill of Lilac), from the single old trees
still extant, that the wood growth of the high
plateau was at one time in a better condition. The
climate and soil are no hindrance to increased growth
of the trees ; but the natives, with the aim of being
comfortably warm in winter, cut down everything
they can reach, without an idea of substitution.
The wood-saints of the villages sufficiently prove that
fuel is considered a treasured article on the plateau.
For the absolute security of the stock of wood
laboriously collected during the summer months, it is
stored as near as possible to one of the holy graves by

24 THE JAULAN.

the Mujjenneh, Wely, or Makam, which are present
in every village ; no one dares then, with the excep
tion of the foreign traveller's cook, to lay a trespassing
hand on the treasure. It is more secure there than
in the owner's hut ; and for the same reason agricul
tural implements are deposited near to the Neby.
The declivities of southern Jaulan to Lake
Tiberias and the Yarmuk, or Sheriat el-Menadireh,
are throughout steep in the upper part. The high
plateau is sharply edged by a layer of ' Hummus,'
covered with fragments of lava. Great blocks dis^
integrate from the upper layer and roll into the
valley, or mass themselves on the third division of
the terrace-shaped declivities. The middle portion of
the slopes is less steep ; it consists of the sloping
heaps from the upper terrace, and has gradually
spread itself out to a 'Hummus' layer which has
been shot down from the high plateau. Mountain
slips are not unfrequent. Finally, the lowest portion,
viz., down to the Sea of Tiberias, is composed of a
multitude of rubbish cones, with little water channels
in between — a formation caused by the loosened
masses of mountains from above. In the Yarmuk
valley, instead of cone-heaps, are basaltic walls
98 feet broad, bordering the river ; but here, too, the
terrace formation is clearly visible.
The declivities in the Batihah are smoother to
ascend and less steep.

THE JAULAN. 25

The most important animals in the Jaulan are soon
disposed of. Besides the jackal (Waweh) and the
hyena, a wolf with grey fur is to be met with. I met
such a one in December, 1883, in the neighbourhood
of Kefr el-Ma, probably come down from Hermon.
In the ruined places especially are a plentiful number
of Syrian foxes, called Abu Ahseineh, with their
reddish-brown tails and light-brown fur ; without the
tail they measure 23 inches, but are only from 1 5 to
18 inches high. Likewise among the ruins are to be
found numerous small grey wild cats, whose fury,
directly they are wounded, is well known to the
inhabitants, one raises unwillingly, although it is not
unseldom exhibited. Gazelles are constantly to be
seen in herds of 4 to 20 quietly resting. A kind of
stag with large horns is supposed to make its
appearance sometimes, but I never caught sight of
one. Wild boars live in large numbers in the
neighbourhood and thickets of el-Hammeh and el-
Mukhaibeh, on the Yarmuk, also in the deeply
indented woods.
The Jaulan is poorly furnished with bright-coloured
birds. Besides the thistle finch and common finch,
there is the field lark and sparrow, which here, as
everywhere else, carries on its thieving existence. In
spring large swarms of wild doves (Rukti) and star
lings (Zarzur) injure the seeds. Large coveys of
partridges (Hajal) are to be met with in sheltered

26 THE J A ULAN.

bushy places. As to dangerous reptiles in stony
Jaulan, a light-brown viper, about 3 feet in length, is
found ; it has a thick head, thick body, and short
tail, and herds of these do great damage. In the
little water-basin found in the wadies in summer, and
also in the small running brooks, there are innumer
able poisonous water-snakes of a dark colour (ash
grey), and measuring 3 feet to 4^ feet in length. The
entwined and partly water-growing roots of the
oleander bushes make a favourite hiding-place for
them, from which they dart out upon their prey. The
inhabitants are frightened of these water-snakes, and
avoid bathing in such water channels. I have con
vinced myself of the harmlessness of a black-spotted,
dark, large snake (probably belonging to the family
Colubridar, named Zamens — see 'Botiger Rephtien
und Amphibien von Syrien,' 1880), which is fre
quently met with in Western Palestine. This, as,
indeed, every other snake, is regarded by the natives
as poisonous.
There are quantities of tarantulas and scorpions to
be found on the east bank of the Lake of Tiberias ;
the pitching of a tent there, as I know from my
own experience, may have grievous consequences.
To get a clear impression of the irrigation of the
Jaulan one must always bear in mind that the
highest point of the longitudinal profile is in the
north, whilst the deepest of the same is in the south-

THE JA ULAN. 27

west, and the transverse profile of the north and
central Jaulan falls into two sides, right and left,
towards the Jordan and Rukkad.
From the water-shed, which, as we have seen, reaches
a height of about 3,000 feet between the two extended
groups of volcanoes, spring many small watercourses.
Flowing thence at first only as perennial springs
over the surface of the ground, they soon cut
deeper and deeper clefts in the same ; and about
the district between el-Aseliyeh, Kubbet ed-Dhahr,
el-Kusbiyeh, Washarah, and el-Kubbeh, where the
plateau makes an abrupt descent, they reach a
depth of 492 feet and more below the neigh
bouring country — these water-channels, or wadies,
conveying only an insignificant amount of water in
summer ; but in winter they swell so- suddenly as to
hinder traffic and form giant mountain streams, with
cataracts bringing down and depositing at their
mouths a mass of boulders. The course of these wild
streams divides in two directions south from Tell
Abu el-Khanzir and west from the volcanic group of
Tell Abu en-Neda. The first, and certainly the most
important group, embrace those which originate in
greater or less proximity to the southerly foot of the
Tell Abu el-Khanzir and Tell Abu Yusef, make, after
numerous windings, a south-westerly course and then
unite to three powerful mountain streams, which, under
the names of Wady es-Safa, ed-Dalieh, and es-Senam,

28 THE JAULAN.

enter the plain el-Batihah. There, during summer,
they lose their water either wholly or partly, so that
the course of these wadies to the Sea of Tiberias is
only recognisable by the stratum of material which the
water has brought along with it. During summer the
Wady ed-Dalieh, on the border of Batihah, evaporates,
and the Wady es-Senam is completely dried up ; the
Wady es-Safa alone in the hot weather has water.
The course of this wady is not, counting windings, on
the whole 16 miles in length ; and there is a difference
of 3,1 1 6 feet in height between the source and where
it enters the Sea of Galilee.
The wild streams of the second group rise along the
western slopes of Tell Abu el-Khanzir, Abu en-Neda,
and barren Tell el-Ahmar runs parallel towards
west-south-west and west, and discharge themselves'
into the marshes and Lake of Huleh. Only a few
small disappearing wadies rise upon the slopes them
selves, and make quick short courses to the Jordan.
The streams also belonging to the second group can
hardly be regarded as perennial.
They all dry up with the exception of Wady Dabura
and Wady el-Hamd, where even in late summer a little
water always sparkles down. During rainy season
they increase less than the ones belonging to the first
group, for their course is considerably shorter, amount
ing at best to no more than 7^ miles. The difference
in height between the source and the mouth amounts

THE JAULAN. 29

at its highest to 2,952 feet (W. Dabura), and to
1,640 feet at its lowest, in an extent of 2\ miles to
3^ miles. The wady of both groups do not sink
gradually to this remarkable depth, but fall for the
most part in terraces.
East of the volcanoes and the water-shed of northern
Jaulan, that is towards the low lands of Rukkad, there
are no water channels worthy of mention ; they are
onlyperennial and sporadic springs, whose short course,
even in the rainy season, has only a bed of a few
metres deep, which is owing to the slight difference of
height in their course. The water channels of central
Jaulan rise on the southern edge of the watershed, at
the place where it makes a steep incline between the
southern outlets of the volcanic chain, and soon make
for the west, towards the Lake of Tiberias. Before its
mouth the Wady Joramayeh enters Batihah and unites
with the Wady es-Senim. The water of these valleys
flows at first slowly over the surface, which is already
less stony, gradually grows into a swift torrent and
tumbles from a great height over basaltic terraces.
The most remarkable example of this kind is afforded
by the Wady Bazuk near a Tell of the same name,
whose stream (according to a measure designed for
the purpose), beginning with a depth of only 10 feet
beneath the surface of the country, after a length of
656 feet falls down a height of 531 feet, in cataracts
of 66 feet and 100 feet. The same thing occurs in

3o THE JAULAN.

the Wady Joramayeh. The Wady esh-Shukeiyif and
the double-branched more distant Wady es-Semakh
are less violent. The length of Wady Joramayeh
reaches, at the most, 1 3 miles ; the difference of
height between spring and lake being about 2,952
feet. These valleys of central Jaulan, in opposition to
the narrow cleft like one of north Jaulan, which are
only a few hundred feet in breadth, are two and more
miles broad ; they are quite charming towards the lake,
are in part built over and inhabited by Bedawin, and
like Wady es-Semakh, for instance, covered with ruins.
Some water flows along the bottom, which ,only in
years of very abundant water reaches in summer the
lake-basin. Every such stream in the Jaulin is extra
ordinarily rich in fish. Finally, the w&dy of southern
Jaulan are more insignificant. The two most note
worthy are : the pleasant woody Wady Masaud, moist
ened by a stream which discharges into the Yarmuk
in the south Jaulan, and which is 5f miles long, not
counting windings, and which makes a fall of 1,508
feet, and Wady Fik ; this, which is very rocky in the
upper part, runs northward past Kulat el-Husn to the >
lake, and is fed by a small stream.
The length of the wady scarcely amounts to 3J
miles, and its entire fall is about 1,800 feet. The
other wady are small side valleys of the Yarmuk and
Rukkad. Besides these small floods, which begin and end in

THE JAULAN. 31

the Jaulin proper, we must mention those larger
channels which are outside the Jaulin, and either
stretch through it or in part form its boundaries.
There are (i)Nahr es-Sa'ir, in the north of Sharah;
(2) the Jordan, in part the western border of Jaulin ;
(3) the Nahr er-Rukkid, between Jaulan and Jedur;
(4) Nahr el-' Allan, the east boundary of entire
Jaulin ; and finally (5) the two latter, which, joined,
form the largest river, the Shariat el-Menidireh,
Yarmuk, the southern boundary of Jaulin.
(1.) The Nahr es-Sa'ir, beginning on the southern
slopes of Hermon as a clear, fresh stream, flows in
a southerly direction towards Merj el Yafureh, and
propels some mills on the 'east side of this valley,
then crosses the Merj in an even — often sluggish —
course, and joins at Birket er-Rim with a small con
fluent, the Seil el Yafureh, which turns a mill near a
pond of the same name. At el-Mes'adi it falls over
rugged steps into a deep ravine, which, from there
onward, bears the name of Widy el-Hoshabah, and
divides esh Sharah into two parts. Wedged in by high
rock walls, it soon changes from its southerly direction
to north-west-north and enters the plateau at Baniis,
uniting her with the Nahr] Baniis. , The valley of
Widy el-Hoshabah widens in its upper part, and
then narrows lower down into terraces, leaving the
rushing brook only a very limited space. At Birket
er-Rim the Nahr es-Sa'ir is about 8 feet broad, but

32 THE J A ULAN.

scarcely a foot deep. In the vicinity of its source,
the water is clear, but in the Merj (plain) becomes
a dirty-green colour, covered with swamp vegetation,
which it loses first in its swifter course in Widy el-
Hoshabah. The whole length reaches about 9 miles ;
the total fall between the Merj and Baniis is 2,362
feet. (2.) The Jordan, or esh-Sheriah.
The largest river in Palestine, has been sufficiently
treated in the ' Memoirs ' of the Palestine Exploration
Fund and in other places, and is only of importance
to us so far as it refers to the portion in the district
between the Lake of Huleh and the Sea of Tiberias,
Its slow course down to the Lake of Huleh is sur
rounded by marshes and papyrus woods ; when it
emerges from this lake it has an uniform flow inas
much as in a stretch of 10 miles it falls 689 feet.
Thus, from + 7 feet at the Lake of Huleh to — 682
feet at the Lake of Tiberias.
The broad Huleh marshes narrow beneath the lake
• to a small valley, through which the stream glides
down to the Batihah and into the Lake of Tiberias.
On account of the marsh fever, the Huleh marshes
are in bad repute ; their miasma may be observed on
the high-lying Mejdel esh-Shems.
The Jordan, also, between the above-mentioned
lakes, produces this same fever, in consequence ol
the heated air wedged inside the high ridges of the

THE JAULAN. 33

valley. I know, from certainty, that a single night
spent in late summer near Jisr Benit Yikub, is
enough to impregnate the body with fever. The
water of the river is muddy, in spite of its stony bed
overlaid with rubble ; oleanders, canes, willows, and
other shrubs grow on its banks. At its discharge
into Lake Tiberias it flows slowly, and is 147 feet
broad, with a depth of 3 feet. However, this measure
increases or lessens according to the time of the year.
(3.) The Nahr er-Rukkad*
This most important river of Jaulin has its source
in the southern declivities of Hermon, in the western
Wady el-Ajam. It is from the spring' Ain el-Beidah
(3>394 feet), close to the boundary between el-
Kuneitrah and Widy el'-Ajam, that the channel of
the Rukkid, otherwise dry, gets fed. Towards the
north this latter is only a little sunk below the
surface of the ground ; but the whole country in
clines towards it from the east, and during the
melting of the snow and heavy downpours of rain,
is highly flooded. It is for this reason that at
Sueiseh the channel is spanned by an arched bridge
(Jisr es-Sueiseh), which is fairly preserved. The small
springs, which scarcely moisten the land between
Ain el-Beidah and Ghadir el-Bustin, are not worthy
of mention. On the other hand, large springs appear
at Ghadir ej-Jamus and Ghadir el-Bustin, so that the
* See ' Across the Jordan,' p. 13, Schumacher.
D

34 THE JAULAN

Rukkid, from thence onward to the lower bridge,
Jisr er-Rukkid, is never, even in summer, quite
dried up. The bridge road stands 1,610 feet above
the sea : that is, 1,784 feet lower than Ain el-Beidah.
The channel is from 16 feet to 19 feet below the
surrounding country, and is still some hundreds of
feet wide.
Scarcely 656 feet beyond Jisr er-Rukkid the
natural features change ; here the water suddenly
dashes over perpendicular basaltic rocks 82 feet
high, and lower down are many other cascades.
The wide bed contracts to a narrow cleft, whose
perpendicular walls fall to a great depth. This
part of the Rukkid, so an old Bedawin told
me, was called by the Bedawin tribes (Jarab Sakhar)
who formerly dwelt there, and who now camp
near Nazareth, and in the plain of Jezreel — Hami
Sakhar, that is, ' Protector of Sakhar ' — indicating
that in a time of pursuit no food could follow
them here. This name is still known, as well as
that of Rukkid, and is once mentioned thus by
Burckhardt (' Ritter Erdk.' xv., p. 356). After a
course of about 5 miles from its first fall the Rukkid
receives from the east a fine stream — the Wady
Seisun, whose water likewise falls down from the
plateau, and can be heard at a great distance. At
the same time, between Jamleh and Kefr el-Ma, the
ravine widens to a distance of 1^ miles, and is divided

THE JA ULAN. 35

by the Ris el-Hil (or Tell el-Ehdeb), one of the
gliding mountains loosed from the overhanging bank
itself, into two parts. The Rukkid, therefore, between
this and Kefr el-Ma, flows thither at a height of 538
feet above sea-level, and is joined further down by
another little widy, whose source is between the Tell
and Jamleh, and which descends from a greater height
from the southern hanging coast bank. The long
extended gliding hill of Ris el-Hil, which has an
almost perpendicular incline of fully 524 feet to the
Rukkid ; the narrow northern ravine, with its gloomy
basaltic walls above, and white chalk walls in the
river bed, and the foaming waterfall of Widy Seisum,
gives the country an extraordinary picturesque aspect.
The valley widens still more, and the Rukkid flows
tolerably quick over large basaltic blocks to its union
with the Yarmuk at Tell el-Ferdiweh (or Tell el-
Hiweh), which lies 154 feet beneath the level of the
Mediterranean Sea. In summer time, however, its
water evaporates before it reaches this river. Its entire
length, from 'Ain el-Beidah to Yarmuk, is 38 miles, the
difference in altitude of the two points being 3,549 feet.
In the bed of the river are a large number of boulders,
which roll along the crumbling soft limestone, of which
the bed of the river and a part of the slope consists,
with a swiftly-destroying effect. In spring time, and
when the snow of the high mountains of the Jaulan
and Hermon melts, these boulders are set in motion
D 2

36 THE J A ULAN.

by huge masses of water and obstruct all traffic.
A proof of the great size of these floods is shown
by the heap deposited on the side of the river
basin beneath the Ris el-Hil, the breadth of which
is 300 to 400 feet. The Rukkid swarms with savoury
fish, especially carp, which are easily caught with
nets. The banks of the lower half are luxuriant with
oleanders, wild figs, plane trees, canes_ also wild
grapes and willows. With the exception of the above
mentioned Widy Seisun, the Rukkid has no con
fluent of any importance. The Widy Ser'ii, Sihin,
and Hetil, as well as a large number of springs upon
the declivities of Ziwiyeh el-Ghurbiyeh certainly
hold water constantly, but these soon evaporate in
the deeply-notched valley. The Seil el-Gh6r, which
flows into the Rukkid at Kefr el-Ma, conveys plenty
of water to this latter during the rainy season.
(4.) The Nahr el-'Allin.* — This frontier river be
tween the Jaulin and the Haurin, which with the
Rukkid and Yarmuk surrounds ez Zawiyeh esh-
Shurkiyeh of the Jaulan, proceeds from the high
plateau of Jedur, and makes a less divergent southerly
course than the Rukkid, beneath the village of el-
Ekseir, and about 56 feet above (east) the Rukkid
flows into the Yarmuk. Although its channel is
shorter than that of the Rukkid, it bears a great
resemblance to this latter.
* See ' Across the Jordan,' p. 16, Schumacher.

THE J A ULAN. yj

Instead of a moderate fall at the beginning,
numerous cataracts between high basaltic walls sud
denly appear enclosing the narrow ravine. They
only convey a little water in summer time, and first
begin to get fuller in the spring.
The most important river of the east Jordan land,
and at the same time the most powerful tributary of
the Jordan, is the (5) Yarmuk or Sheri'at el-Menidireh.
It was called Hieromax by the Greeks and Romans,
whilst in more recent time, in consequence of the
Bedawin tribe Arab el-Menidireh camping on its
valleys, and cultivating its slopes, it received the
name of Sheri'at (watering place for animals) el-
Menidireh. It, too, rises as an abundant stream in
north Jedur at the northern edge of Haurin, pursues
a long southerly course to Tell el-Ashary in Haurin,
and then strikes a decided westerly direction till it
joins the Nahr el-'Allin, not far from the village of
Heit in Haurin. Its name up to here is called Widy
el-Ehreir, also its old designation of Irak or (Arak) is
still known. United with the 'Allin it flows for some
miles south-west, and then unites with Widy Zeizum
and Wady esh-Shelaleh, both plenteous rivers des
cending from Haurin. From here onwards it bears
the name Sheri'at el-Menidireh, and at Tell el-
Ferdiweh, at the side of Widy Keleit, absorbs the
Rukkid. It then flows swiftly with a rapid current
in a south-westerly direction till it reaches the Gh6r,

38 THE JAULAN.

past el-Mukhaibeh and el-Hammeh. It approaches
the Jordan in a more southerly direction, to which,
near the old Mejimia bridge, at least it conveys as
much water as the former itself contains.
As to other tributaries of the Yarmuk, entirely
disregarding a number of smaller springs, I will
mention further the Widies el-Ku'elby and Samar, or
Ain el-Ghazileh of 'Ajlun, the Widy ez-Zeyyatin
of western Haurin, and the earlier mentioned Widy
Masaud of south-western Jaulin, which, however,
dries up in summer. A tributary of the same kind,
and with a not less quantity of water, is formed by
the hot springs which are known by the collective
name of el-Hammeh.
The bed of the Sheri'at el Menidireh is formed in the
same manner as that of the great northern tributaries.
Not far from Tell el-Ash'ary the water falls down
from the high plateau, over rocky slopes, and flows
swiftly between narrow gorges to the 'Allin. Here
the valley widens, and is pleasing and fruitful. From
Jaulin the northern declivities make a precipitous
incline, in several terraces, which are always bordered
by lava masses, whilst the river course is embanked
beneath a high perpendicular wall of basaltic rocks.
The southern slopes of Ajlun, in consequence of the
chalk formation prevalent there, are less steep. In the
Gh6r high earth walls ( Arik Abu Jedeiyeh) bound
the course of the river.

THE JAULAN. 39

The water of the Yarmuk is only a trifle clearer than
that of the Jordan, but fresher, and plentifully stocked
with carp : thickets of canes, palms, and water plants
are found in great variety, and are a favourite resting-
place for large numbers of deer and wild fowl, &c.
Throughout its whole course the swift river propels
grinding-mills of the most primitive construction, to
which the inhabitants of the high plateau bring
down corn by break-neck paths. In June, 1885, the
Yarmuk, at its union with the Rukkid, was 50 feet
broad, 5 feet deep, with a speed of 4 feet a second. A
few hundred feet further below, the river flows swiftly,
and at an insignificant depth widens to 100 to
150 feet. In March, 1883, I noticed the enormous
mass of water which rolled along in the bed, the
breadth of the river near the ford, \ mile east of el-
Hammeh, amounted to nearly 260 feet, and in spite
of its great rapidity the water reached to the saddle
of my horse.
In the late summer of 1 884, the water-mark of the
river was higher than in June, 1885, a remarkable
phenomenon,, which admits, however, of an easy
explanation in the difference in the quantity of rain
during the two years. The rapid river can only be
crossed at those places where fords are indicated ; but
even here .the saddle-horse constantly stumbles over
the bed of smooth polished stones, and has to
struggle against the tide with all the force of its

40 THE J A ULAN.

strength. Asses for the most part take unwilling
baths, which are in the highest degree serious for
their riders. If one wishes to travel along the stream
from el-Hammeh, it is impossible to avoid frequently
crossing the Yarmuk. The route, therefore, is very
difficult, ' and not to be recommended ; beasts of
burden cannot in any case manage it.
Besides these streams and widies, an inland lake is
to be found in Jaulin, named Birket Rim, of which
I shall speak in more detail further on. The climate
of Jaulin is excellent. Properly speaking, there is
no standing water in the high plateau, because the
formation of the surface favours an unobstructed
flowing 6ff of the water. During the greater portion
of the day, fresh west winds blow over the plateau
and moderate the heat. The nights are cold, and in
the north, especially, a very heavy dew falls, which
keeps the first part of the day pleasantly cool. As
soon as the sun disappears, the air quickly cools.
The influence of the Gh6r is only perceptible on the
slopes, for the plateau is elevated at least 1,640 feet
above it. It is only the shut-in and perpetually
marshy Batihah and Jordan, near the Lake of Huleh,
which engender malignant fevers.
In August and September, 1884, the thermometer
on the high plateau of southern Jaulin, at 5.30 a.m.,
stood on an average at 590 Fah., at its lowest at 55°,
but rose during the day to an average of ?J°, and at

THE JAULAN. 41

its highest reached 88° (Jibin, 31 May, 1.30 p.m.). On
May 26 and 27 a light rain fell. In northern Jaulin,
in September, 1884, the thermometer upon the plain
stood in the morning, 5.30 a.m., at an average of 56°
Fah. at its lowest (ed-Delweh, September 17), and rose
to 74° in the course of the day ; it was quite an
exception that on September 14, 12.30 mid-day, with
a strong east wind in the village of el-Kuneitrah,
900 was marked.
With a strong east wind I found southern and
central Jaulin bitterly cold, in December, 1 884 ;
whereas in January, 1883, from the 1st to the 4th, it
was mild and agreeably fresh. In June, 1885, the
average temperature of the southern Jaulin was 66°,
at 5.30 a.m., and rose at mid-day to an average of 840,
whilst at north Jaulin, at the same hour in the morn
ing, it was at 66°, and 770 during the day. These figures
ought to strengthen the rule that it is hotter in the
Jaulin in June and July than in August and Septem
ber, a phenomenon which is the effect of the proximity
of high mountains. Dew also falls as abundantly in
late summer as in June and July. On the other
hand, in Haifa, as well as in Western Palestine alto
gether, August is the hottest month. In. the Ghor
(es-Samra), on May 21st, 1885, from 9 o'clock in the
morning to 2.30 mid-day, we registered 98°-6 Fah.
in the shade.
Snow and ice are well-known in the Jaulin.

42 THE JAULAN.

Except in very mild years, snow falls not only in the
rugged northern part, but also in the south, in the
countries of Fik, Dabbuseh, Kefr Hirib, &c. ; it
remains, however, here for a few hours only, seldom
lying a whole day. In north Jaulin, on the contrary,
it is in the highest degree troublesome to the inhabi
tants ; for example, for weeks el-Kuneitrah and Jort
el- H awa are covered several feet, and compel the
Bedawin tribes to go further back into the more
sheltered widies and ruins. In general, the Fellahin
consider the limit, down to which the snow falls
regularly and remains lying, a line which runs from
el-Kuneitrah to Joramiyeh towards the southern
bridge over the Rukkid, and after the bridge, over
the Allan (1,640 feet high) ; they call the district north
of this line ej-Jebel, " the mountains," and wrap them
selves closer in their thick fur coats at the mention of
the intense cold prevailing there at times.
D. — THE INHABITANTS OF THE JAULAN.
The people of Jaulin consist of colonised peasants,
Fellahin, and nomadic Bedawin (el-' Arab).
The Bedawin inhabit exclusively the part of
southern Jaulin devoted to corn cultivation, also
the two Zawiyehs, and have established themselves
in the ruins of old places. They have laid the old
basalt building stones upon the top of each other,

THE JAULAN. 43

without any mortar, and have thus erected their
huts ; just as in the olden time the Romans and
Arabians employed the smooth, easily split basalt.
The roof is supported by rough oak-beams from
the prevailing wood of the country. Oleander under
wood is laid diagonally and it is then spread over
with damp earth and a mixture of clay and fine
straw. The walls are, according to the circumstances
of the possessor, more or less adorned. The roof of
their huts is annually repaired in autumn. The family
inhabit the same hut till the roof commences to fall
in under the weight of the yearly increasing layer of
clay. Then, with the co-operation of the relatives,
another hut on another part of the ruins is built.
This is the explanation of the many modern ruins
found amongst the unrecognisable old ones in the
same villages. An exception to this description of
buildings are the houses of the sheikhs which serve at
the same time as inns, and are therefore better built,
and surrounded by a court. Besides the strangers
room, or el-Medifeh, also because it is situated at the
top, called el-Ulliyeh, they contain two or three sitting-
rodms and a stable. For the summer months the
Fellahin build on the roof of the houses a square or
round foliage hut, er-Risheh, made out of branches
or reeds woven together, which are used as sleeping-
rooms. Such a hut is very acceptable to the traveller,
who first learns its value in winter, when he is obliged

44 THE JAULAN.

to pass a night in the dwelling-room itself, which is
full of crawling, flying, boring, gnawing vermin.
The fellah of Jaulin is, so far as his field is con
cerned, industrious, but because he is not used to any
hard work he soon fails under too continuous labour,
as guide employment for instance. Although inqui
sitive, like all Orientals, he is nevertheless a well
disposed, hospitable man, who, with good arrange
ment, and discipline, can be made serviceable.
The immoderate inquisitiveness, which with him
soon degenerates into obtrusiveness, can be best met
by earnest determined dignified behaviour and a few
severe but not offensive words thrown at him. Famil
iarity, if even well meaning, leads to a disastrous
result ; the fellah becomes then rude, impudent, and
childishly troublesome. The Jauliner is not badly
disposed towards strangers ; he at first exhibits dis
trust when he is questioned as to the number of souls
in the village, the amount of cultivated land, and such
things, and increases thus to hostility when instru
ments and slates are employed, because he fears a
new tax. If a man, therefore, wishes to travel comfort
ably who is not provided with government authoriza
tions, he should avoid making many notes in the
presence of the inhabitants. The Jauliner is tall and
well grown, and much browner than the Arabs of
Western Palestine ; he has long raven black hair,
part of it in a plait and part hanging loose ; and he

THE JAULAN. 45

is clothed in a linen shirt only reaching from throat
to knee, to which in winter the well known wool hair
cloak, or 'Aba, is added.
The fellah wears a Kufiyeh for head covering, a
piece of linen wound round the head in the Bedawin
fashion, which is held together by a string (Agil)
made of goats' hair.
The richness of clothing increases with position and
means. If he wears over his linen undergarment a
blue cloth coat and a coloured silken cloth for the
head, he belongs to the notables of the village or is
the village Sheikh himself.
Mandk Idbis jush, ' thou wearest cloth,' is an answer
as significant as it is customary when anyone denies
that he is one of the Awidim, the more highly placed
(properly noblemen) of the village ; because he is
burdened with most of the strangers and soldiers.
The Fellahin's mode of life is extremely simple. The
necessary corn for bread he cultivates himself, as well
as vegetables (cucumbers and tomatoes), and some
water melons. He places much importance on cattle
rearing, by means of which he principally lives ; inas
much as they yield him milk which he uses in both a
sweet and sour form ; and also makes into butter and
cheese. Rice and meat are dainties ; many have
scarcely tasted them, and obtain them only at festival
occasions, such as weddings or banquets. In none of
the better sort of huts is coffee absent ; it is roasted

46 THE JAULAN.

in a great iron spoon and pounded in a wooden mortar
with a wooden mallet (Figs. I and 2). If distinguished

Figs. 1 and 2.
guests arrive the Sheikh or proprietor of the Menzul
prepares a Dabihah (slaughtered) sheep or kid with
rice and vegetables, which is carried up in a strong
copper dish with freshly baked flat loaves wrapped in
a goat skin. The guests and most honoured persons
then form a group round the meal, placing themselves
meanwhile on their knees with their body bent
forward. They then push the hand into the rice
dish, roll some grains up together into a ball and
convey this with enviable dexterity to the mouth.
During the chewing of the food, the dipping hand is
held all the time over the dish, ' Hitta la yeruh esh-
Shasdra,' 'so that none may fall to the ground.'
Perfect stillness reigns during this proceeding, broken

THE JA ULAN. 4;

only now and then by the shout of the host, or
the steps of the attendants, who pour hot melted
butter on the rice heaps, or the el-Humdu el-Allah
rabbet el-'Alamin, ' Praise be to God, the Lord
of created things,' from an appeased person, who
rises then to make room for another. The vege
tables lie all ready prepared in dishes round the
rice bowls and are eaten by means of the loaves ;
whilst the meat forms a rim on the outer edge of the
rice heap. Each takes as much meat as appears
proper to him ; bites some off and lays the rest back
in its place again. To a specially honoured person it
may happen that a neighbour who has found a piece
particularly soft and succulent, lays it silently on the
place before him, which must be at once consumed
without hesitation and with a grateful countenance.
After the male population of the village is satisfied
and the hands washed and the remains cleared off, a
little coffee (without sugar) which has been roasted
and crushed in the presence of the guests, is handed
round in little doses, two and even three times, as
much as the guest is to be honoured.
Cigarettes and Nafas (water pipes) form the final
enjoyment, to which one yields in pleasant repose
reclining on the carpets.
The women occupy a subordinate position. They
have to attend to the cooking, the making of
butter, the reed plaiting, and such like things.

48 THE J A ULAN.

Polygamy prevails principally in the best (Sheikh)
circles; but the number of wives (four) is, accord
ing to instructions, not exceeded. The oldest
woman is most anxious to rule, and the youngest
to be spoilt by the master of the house. So that
neither should get the upper hand, the administra
tion of the domestic arrangements, especially the
care of the master of the house by the women,
changes from day to day. During her Dora (for
this arrangement is thus called) each woman is eager
to prepare the most dainty portions for the master
of the house and win his favour by every possible
artifice. So long as the Dora of a wife lasts — always ¦
one day and one night — the other wives hold
themselves aloof from her. Matrimonial morality
is severe ; adultery occurs very seldom and
brings upon the guilty man the punishment of
death. ,
It is, alas, through this that the avenging of blood,
that unhappy legacy from the days of lawlessness,
always receives renewed sustenance from the Bedawin.
Marriages are conducted with similar ceremonies and
conditions to those of the Fellahin of Western Pales
tine. The woman is purchased. The stipulated sum
from the bridegroom to the father is discharged by
ready cash for the smaller portion of it, and by highly
valued cattle for the remaining and larger part. It is
considered an honour to increase the sum as much as

THE JAULAN. 49

possible, so that by a silent agreement the real price
of the bride is less than the nominal one.
The fellah of the Jaulin and the Haurin is not
drawn for military service, but he is compelled to con
tribute an equivalent sum in money. The Govern
ment, by a vigorous mode of action, has not only
succeeded in keeping quiet the combative tribes,
but has completely subdued them, and made its
authority still more regarded than is the case in
Western Palestine. The threat of the prison in
el-Kuneitrah or Sheikh Sa'id never fails to have
its effect. At the present time, at any rate, there
is no longer any question of a peasant or Bedawin
rebellion against the Government. Civil enterprise
on the part of foreign Europeans is, therefore,
averted as much as possible in the beginning, but
scarcely indeed in a hostile manner. The Fellahin,
on the contrary, desire foreign capital, and would
willingly carry on the agriculture in common with
Europeans. That the inhabitant of the Jaulin and the Haurin
is in a very elementary condition as regards education
is scarcely to be wondered at. There are no schools
at hand, and they are therefore unknown by him.
As a purely natural man he is simple and childish,
but by no means insensible to novelty. Many times
they offered me a cow or a horse for my theodolite in
the belief that the distance to favourite spots was
E

50 THE J A ULAN.

marked upon it. A shepherd who was enchanted
with my telescope immediately offered me his best
coat in exchange, declaring as he used it and
stretched out his hand to the objects appearing
therein, that he would sit on a cliff all day long
and observe the landscape : food thereby he would
not require. For the rest, the object of the fellah's
desires is the produce of the markets of Akka and
Haifa, the fruit transport of which he has occasionally
seen. As soon as he has a little cash, he quickly
spends it on the things to be got there. His religion
is Islam, but he is not a fanatic.
Besides the Fellahin we find in the Gh6r and
Yarmuk valleys four small Bedawin tribes — the Arab
Segur el-Ghor, el-Mukhaibeh, el-Menidireh, and el-
Kefarit. The last are partly inhabitants of 'Ajlun,
and only camp by the Yarmuk during the winter ;
they live in poor tents, and lead a tolerably harmless
existence. Cattle breeding and a little agriculture
afford them the necessary means of subsistence.
In opposition to the settled Fellahin of southern
Jaulin we must observe inside the boundary of the
Jaulan the nomadic Bedawin el-Arab, whose pasture
grounds lie in north-west and central Jaulin. At
the present day we find there thirteen different names
of clans or tribes, some of which have their pasture
lands definitely allotted, and others by reason of their
relationship possess their land in common. Besides

THE JAULAN. 51

these nomads, who ought properly to be reckoned
with the settled inhabitants of Jaulin, there are a
multitude of other Bedawin, the tribes of which
are related, who come to this rich country during
the spring and leave it in the beginning of sum
mer. These are reckoned in the second list
because the Government has imposed certain taxes
upon them.
From primitive times the Bedawin or real Arabians
of the land of east Jordan have wandered over this
tract of country. The pressure of civilization or war
has often driven them away ; but they have always
managed to regain their old places, and till the most
recent times have remained the terror of travellers,
for the Government itself was in no position to afford
any secure protection. Burckhardt and Seetzen, at
the beginning of this century, and other later investi
gators, suffered greatly from the thievishness and
annoyance of the Bedawin ; but, thanks to the
vigorous action of the Turkish authorities during
the last thirty years, this nuisance has been put a stop
to successfully. The fighting tribes were threatened
with extermination, which was, in fact, in part
actually effected ; a better administration was given
to the Jaulin and the Haurin, and grants of Govern
ment with officials and soldiers were founded. Conse
quently, the traveller of to-day, provided with letters
of recommendation from the Government, can travel
E 2

52 THE JAULAN.

through the whole countries of wide Jaulin and
Haurin unmolested
The large tribes of el-'Anazeh, Ruwalah, have
retired into southern Haurin and the Belka. The
heads of the tribes receive annually a considerable
sum from the Government, and bind themselves
thereby to the preservation of peace. If, however,
a blood feud breaks out, the contending tribes fight
beyond the boundary of Haurin and 'Ajlun, in the
Hamid. If, nevertheless, one party retire to this
district the struggle can only be continued by permis
sion of the Government, and this is never granted —
such a retreat signifies defeat.
It was in this manner that the bloody struggle
between the Anazeh and Beni Sahkr, in 1885, was
carried on and decided in favour of the latter. In
'Ain Dakar, in the north of ez Zawiyeh es-Shurkiyeh,
of the Jaulin, the Anazeh have regularly settled down,
and themselves work the long despised dishonoured
plough-share, instead of investing the surrounding
district with lances and levying a yearly tribute, the
Kuweh, as formerly.
In north-east Jaulin, in el-Kuneitrah, the Circas
sians drive away the encamping Bedawin, so that
these latter are limited to the proportionately small
district in north-west Jaulin, of Sk£k down to the
Batihah, and from the Jordan to the western group
of volcanoes.

THE JAULAN. 53

Here they camp in tolerable peace near each other :
dum 'blood,' so far as I could learn, is only to be
avenged between the Arab et-Tellawiyeh of the
country near the Batihah, and their northern neigh
bour the 'Arab el-Wesiyeh.
This state of things adds considerably to the diffi
culties of the investigator of these countries, for no
guide belonging to one of the tribes can be brought
to the frontier places of one of the others.
According to the information imparted to me by
the Weslyeh Bedawin, on whom the expiation de
volves, this blood-expiation is a tolerably cold-blooded
affair. It is the duty of those belonging to each
tribe to watch the steps of the offender : years pass
by without any relaxation of watchfulness on either
side. At last one of the Tellawiyeh cross the district
of the Weslyeh : his footstep betrays him even in the
dark- night, and it is then possible, to the devilish joy
of the avenger, to shoot him, or stab him, or kill him
with a club.
This is such an ingrained vice among the Bedawin
tribes that even the Government itself is powerless to
oppose it ; indeed, these savage practices will only be
restrained when a condition of common social interests
and efforts is brought about, and above all by the
growth of a sense of national unity.
The Bedawin, as from time immemorial, graze
their cattle, churn semen from the milk, which they

54 THE JAULAN.

sell for a good price to the dealer, or exchange for
linen, spice, and coffee, carry on besides some cattle
dealing and horse-breeding, and cultivate as much
ground as is absolutely necessary for existence.
For the rest they live carelessly, practise the "dolce
far niente " in the most extended sense, and are only
roused by a traveller claiming hospitality, or by
hungry gen-d'armes, upon whom it is laid either to
collect the taxes or summon the Sheikh of the tribe
before the Kada in el-Kuneitrah. Instead of military
service an equivalent yearly tax is imposed upon
them ; on an average the total taxation on a tent of
five persons would be about 120 Government piastres
(1 gold Napoleon = 90 piastres). This is doubled
and trebled according to the opulence of the pos
sessor and the size of the tent, but it is seldom less.
From the 320 tents of the wealthy Arab et-Fadel
tribe alone the Government draws on an average
38,400 piastres yearly.
The tent of the Bedawy does not only serve as
a dwelling for the family, but also as an inn. The
spontaneous hospitality which they have inherited as
an obligation from their ancestors is now imposed
upon them as a law, in which, nevertheless, they gladly
acquiesce. They do not make themselves, the cloth
for their tents formed of plaited goat-hair, but for the
most part buy it from certain tribes and gipsies
(Nauwir), who drive a regular trade in this. The

THE JAULAN. 55

necessary outlay for this latter is a great grievance to
the Bedawin. The ordinary man possesses a black
tent cloth spread across poles. The wealthy have
threads of white hair interwoven, fasten the tent by
long cords across the poles, and divide it inside into
a roomy reception-room, with carpets and mats, a
strangers' room, and sleeping and sitting-rooms for
the family. As, however, the tent is not able to
withstand the effect of the weather, especially the
snow and cold, the inhabitants of these tent villages
have erected out of the ruined old places which cover
north and west Jaulin, and upon the sites of them,
wretched low stone huts with wooden roofs. Here
they store the in-gathered pasturage and barley, as
well as the straw during the rainy season, and take
refuge therein during the fierce winter weather. These
winter villages consist of from 6 to 30 huts, which in
summer are completely deserted ; they are closed up
by a wooden door made out of a strong oak, and serve
only as haunts for the wild cats and foxes.
The single Bedawin races are detailed below : —
Besides these descendants of once powerful Bedawin
tribes we find (3) in central Jaulin, a large Turko
man tribe, the Arab Turkoman Teljeh, who divide
the pasture ground of the country with the Bedawin.
A branch tribe, Arab Turkoman Suwidiyeh (with
only 18 tents), leave Jaulin in summer and depart to
the country of Aleppo. In customs and conduct they

56 THE J A ULAN.

differ little from the other Bedawin, are like all the
other Mussulmen, and, besides Arabic (among them
selves), speak a language allied to the Turkish. They
are rather more enlightened, carry on a carpet in
dustry, are of taller, finer stature, and enjoy a more
certain opulence, which, however, does not hinder
them appearing as habitual and dexterous beggars.
Although they are on a tolerably friendly footing with
their neighbours, they preserve the purity of their
race very strictly. Besides which, they have regularly
established themselves in the winter villages of a few
localities where they live entirely to themselves.
Their places, however, are as poor and dirty as the
other Fellahin villages. Their horses are a more
valuable breed, and their cattle are more prized than
those of the other Bedawin. As to their past, from
their own lips I could only learn that they had
migrated hither more than a hundred years ago, from
the neighbourhood of Russia, probably from the
Caspian Sea. I am unable to establish the circum
stances and motives which led to this.
As in the Haurin so in the Jaulin, the planting of
any kind of flag on the summit of a mountain lying in
the pasture-ground of the tribe concerned, is regarded
by the tribe as a call to arms. I myself had many
opportunities of observing this, because I often had
to put up a signal flag on the prominent heights for
the purpose of trigonometrical measurements.

THE JAULAN. 57

When I did this, for example, on the Tell esh-
Shebin, a portion of the largest tribe of that country,
the Arab el-Fadel, collected around me in a moment
with every description of arms, and asked with an
excited air what this signified. Only a detailed ex
planation and respect for my Government soldiers
restrained them from violent action.
The Circassians (Fig. 3) are entirely different
from the inhabitants we have considered till now.
As a consequence of the Russo-Turkish War, they
wandered out of Bulgaria, and in spring, 1878, in a
starving and pitiful condition, reached Akka, where
the Turkish Government assigned them land in
Western Palestine, and in Jerash and the Jaulin. By
indomitable industry and sqlid perseverance they soon
attained a certain amount of prosperity, built villages,
cultivated the fields, bred cattle, dried grass for the
winter, and drove the Bedawin out of their neigh
bourhood. So that to-day they possess the twelve
large flourishing villages in the district of el-Kuneitrah,
which are favourably distinguished from the other
villages by their cleanliness, size, and solid masonry.
The seat of Government, el-Kuneitrah, is also
inhabited, besides merchants and officials, by the
Circassians. In their relations with strangers they are reserved,
cunning, and show little hospitality — nay, even are
feared as robbers.

58

¦ THE JAULAN.

The Bedawin well know their courage and spirit.
The pasture grounds have often been the cause of

Fig. 3-
severe encounters, in which the Bedawin, by reason of
their bad weapons and deficiency of courage, were
always defeated.
The consequence of which is that they have to

THE JAULAN. 59

yield the field and pasture land to the immigrants,
and retire with a vow of eternal enmity. A severe
collision must take place between the tribes ere long,
and it will begin — so the Bedawin swear — directly
they find a courageous leader amongst them.
As good Moslems, the Circassians are obedient
to the Government, whom they must, in addition,
recognise as their benefactor.
The inhabitants of the north-eastern part of the
Jaulin, in the esh-Sharah, belong to the tribe of the
Druses. They are likewise more intelligent and industrious
than the Bedawin. They build fine large villages,
and contentedly sustain themselves on the stony and
little productive soil of the slopes of Hermon and
Jaulin. They live in peace with their neighbours,
but get along better with the Bedawin than with the
Circassians, who are likewise regarded as intruders
by them. The peculiarity of their religion is well
known. Finally, in the two villages of Za'dra and Ain Fit,
in western esh-Sharah, close to the slopes of the
Huleh marshes, we find six Ansariyeh. Long ago
they immigrated from the mountains lying east of
Latakiyeh, in the north of Syria. This industrious
little people have established themselves in three
villages, the two already mentioned and el-Ghajir, in
the plain to the west of Banias. They cultivate

60 THE JAULAN.

excellent tobacco near these villages, rice at Huleh,
and fruit trees and vines in the lowlands near Ain
Fit. Their language is Turkish and Arabian ; their
religion, although originally peculiar to themselves,
now inclines to Islam. They have also put aside
their plundering, cunning character, which I had
opportunities of ascertaining, and are hospitable and
open-hearted. One person in the village is com
missioned tp attend to travellers. This latter (en-
Natur) provides for the new-comer either at the
expense of the village, or claims Bakshish for his
trouble. They are of middle size and compactly
built, but they have, for the most part, unhandsome
features, and are rather dirty.
In the Batihah we find some poor tents, which
belong to the Kubtiyin, or Ghawirneh, the gipsy
tribe amongst the Bedawin. Their badly-built little
tents scarcely afford a man lying at full length
protection from the rays of the glowing sun in the
Batihih. In idleness they roam with the buffaloes
(Jamus), wallowing in the marshes of the plain, upon
whose milk they live, and the proceeds of the cheese
and butter they make. Every year their vegetables
and water-melon culture grows visibly less. The too
tropical sun has an ennervating effect on this little
people, who are on the lowest level of education of
all the tribes and inhabitants of Jaulim Even the
appearance of the Government gens-d'armes makes

THE JAULAN. 6 1

no impression upon them. When we requested them
to serve us as guides in the upland country, they
regarded me with astonishment for this daring con
ception of their intellectual capability, as much as to
say, ' Friend, you are uselessly troubling yourself so
far as concerns us ; our knowledge and capability
consists in doing nothing ! ' And they are right.
The population of the Jaulin, including the 1,750
Zawiyeh esh-Shurkiyeh and the portion of the esh-
Sharah not marked on the map, should not exceed
11,200 inhabitants of both sexes of ten years of age
upwards, if we base our calculation on the populations
of the respective places.
If one also adds to this the Bedawin and gipsies
camping within the border of Jaulin, amounting to
8,300, a total of 19,500 is reached, mostly settled
inhabitants of Jaulin. The number of Bedawin who
only camp there during the winter amounts to 5,750,
according to the list communicated.
E. — ROADS COMMUNICATING WITH THE JAULAN.
The roads of northern Jaulin have become pro
verbial, being peculiarly stony and bad. In com
parison with those of Haurin, even the most
frequented roads may be called untraversable. The
paths connecting the winter villages of the Bedawin
are often obliterated between lava blocks, so that

62 THE J A ULAN.

advance is most difficult. But everywhere traces of
the old Roman roads with stone paving are to be
found, which, as they have not been preserved, are,
except in short stretches, entirely in ruins. The
roads leading to the Circassian settlements, by
reason of the better care bestowed on them, are a
praiseworthy exception, so that the two-wheeled
conveyances of the immigrants, although clumsily
enough built, can easily overcome the stiffened floods
of lava. In the north there is a more southerly road,
which, besides connecting the Mejdel esh-Shems and
the Banias roads of esh-Sharah running from Widy
el-Adjam, leads from Damascus across Sa'sa to
Ophini (near Ain el-Beda, on the Rukkid). It. then
runs through Merj el-Buk'iti, across el-Mes'adi in
Widy el-Khoshabah to the Baniis, from whence roads
branch off in all directions to Palestine and Lebanon.
Between Ophini and the Merj there are distinct
traces of a Roman road. A second one, likewise
running from Sa'sa and Damascus, crosses the
Rukkid further south, leads to el-Kuneitrah, and
proceeds past the ruined place, Skek, to Za'6ra, Ain
Fit, and finally to Baniis. Here, too, are unmistakable
traces of old roads. There is a third principal and
caravan road which follows the above to el-Kuneitrah,
then turns south-west, and goes in a tolerably straight
direction to the southern slope of the Abu en-Neda
and northern slope of Tell Abu el-Khanzir; and in

THE J A ULAN. 63

order to reach Jisr Benit el-Yikub passes by the
ruined places, el-'Ulleika and Nu'arin, over steep and
very stony ground. It thus bisects upper Jaulin in
the direction of Akka and Haifa. This once well-
known and important commercial highway, known in
antiquity and the middle ages as the 'via maris,'
because it connected Damascus with the sea, presents
a sad appearance to-day. It is certainly even now
much frequented, but it is in a very bad state, and
the path — without any detours over lava, cascades,
and blocks of rocks- — is a highly perilous one. There
are two other highways, the Sultaneh of Tell el-Hira
and Damascus, which runs north from Kddana across
the Rukkid, and the more southern and principal way
which leads from Nawi and Haurin over the Rukkid
to er-Rifld ; these likewise cross the central part of
Jaulin from east to west. The first takes us across
el-Ghadiriyeh, the second across er-Ruzaniyeh and
Nu'arin by the via maris to Jisr Benit el-Yikub. As
it is not easy to cross the Rukkid by the above
roads in winter, the principal commercial roads of
Damascus are brought over the stone and tolerably
well-preserved arched bridge, Jisr Sueiseh, near
the village of Sueiseh ; they then turn towards
Tell el-Faras across the last-mentioned chief road
of er-Rafid, and continue in a somewhat southerly
direction across the decaying Khan Jokhadar to
Khisfin. Here it is joined by the second largest

64 THE JAULAN.

caravan road of Haurin, which runs from Nawa and
Tsll across the southern Jisr er-Rukkid, and united
they take a southerly direction through Zawiyeh el-
Ghurblyeh to el-'Al and Fik, from thence, passing
Kefr Hirib to the east, into the southern point of
Jaulin. Here these principal roads turn westward,
run south of the decaying Khan Akabeh down the
slopes, cuts through Gh6r south of Tellul es-S'ilib,
and form a communication with Tiberias across
Semakh, with Akka and Haifa across el-'Abeidiyeh
on the Jordan, through Sahel el-Ahma. This, in
reality, is the principal road which cuts through central
and southern Jaulin from north-east to south-west,
having the names of Sultaneh (state road) el-'Akabeh
(after the decaying Khan el-'Akabeh), and is thereby
distinguished from the steep roads leading down
from Derb el-'Arak, and those across Mukatt ej-
Jamusiyeh, near Kefr Hirib. In autumn this road
is much used by the corn-laden caravans of Haurin ;
it is the best road of Jaulin, and in its latter half,
especially through ez Zawiyeh, is broad, smooth, and
tolerably stoneless. Many traces of the old pave
ment may be found there at this day.
The remaining ways are of slight importance, as is
evident from the map.
The way round the north-east and south coast of the
Lake of Tiberias is very beautiful ; but in the Batihah
one must be careful of the fever lurking near the

THE J A ULAN. 65

shore, and in the hottest time of the day one should
never ride along the road. The most beautiful and
expansive outlook across the lake and environs may
be gained by deviating from the road a little at Kefr
Hirib, and posting oneself on one of the roofs of this
village. The friendly people willingly point out the
various spots to travellers. Their invitation to quarter
there for the night should be accepted, for then one
can be charmed by a last glance at the departing sun
behind the Galilean mountains, and the exquisite
changing play of colour in which the coast landscape
of the lake is enveloped. Telegraph communication
exists up to the present only between el-Kuneitrah,
the seat of the Government, and Damascus, and also
with Sheikh Sa'ad as the seat of the Governor of the
Haurin. The telegraph service in el-Kuneitrah is
international, but is worked only in the Arabic and
Turkish languages as far as Damascus.

F. — NAMES AND PLACES IN THE JAULAN, IN
ALPHABETICAL ORDER, WITH THE NUMBER
OF INHABITANTS OVER TEN YEARS OF AGE.
Abu Ahjar (D. 7). — A small shapeless ruin with
scattered stones on a limestone hill in Widy Hetal,
where the channels of the Ayun Tawarik Hetal
springs unite. Here a very luxuriant growth of shrubs
' F

66

THE J A ULAN.

flourish, which, however, soon languishes in the bed
of the widy.
Abu Kebir (B. 8). — A volcanic hill, covered with
great fragments of lava, close to the Yarmuk, where it
enters the Gh6r. Its little plateau exhibits regular
rows of large unhewn basalt stones, measuring 10 feet
square (Fig. 4). On the edge of the square there

Fig. 4.
Old Stone Wall enclosure in Abu Kebir.
(a) Basalt Rock in the Yarmuk.
(c) Cut holes.
(d) Bedawin graves.

are also pieces of wall • in single layers devoid of
mortar (b) ; these walls are 3 and 6 feet thick. The

THE JAULAN. 67

single stones are from 3 feet to 4-^ feet long, 3 feet
high, and 3 feet thick.
A remarkably large stone lies in the middle and
east and west end of each square. On the upper
side of one of the eastern stones (c) a round conically
sunk cavity is carved out, 10 inches deep, whose upper
opening has a diameter of 9 inches, whilst the lower
only 2 inches. The south-eastern corner stone of
another square presents a similar cavity, which is
likewise artificial.
As the whole neighbourhood constitutes a large
Bedawin graveyard, these squares probably indicate
a consecrated place, and even if they do not belong
to hoary antiquity, they are at any rate not modern.
The conical holes were probably intended as re
ceptacles for libations. Here, from the east and the
south, 'Arabs bury their dead, according to Bedawin
customs, and mark the grave with a large stone. In
these squares, therefore, I recognised the remains of
a very ancient Bedawin cemetery. At the present
day the 'Arab Segur el-Gh6r, the Beni Sakhr of the
upper Jordan Valley, prefer burying near fhe Abu
Kebir, and chisel the mark of their tribe, called
wasm, in the western kerbstone of the tomb. It
was on the tomb of the Sheikh et-Tuka (^.jlalM)
formerly head of the tribe of Tuw£k Bedawin (a
branch tribe of the Beni Sakhr), which also bore the
Effendi surname of el-Faiz, that I collected the
F 2

68

THE J A ULAN.

chiselled tribe signs of the Beni Sakhr which are
rendered here (Fig 5).

o

Fig- 5-
Tribe Marks of the Beni Sakhr.
This tomb lies between Abu Khebir and Khurbet
Jort ed-Dhahab on the north bank of the Yarmuk in
the Gh6r. These signs consist of the Dabbuseh (club)
Y (also ' ), el-Buwelter (diminutive of Aj button),
© Shihid 'witness,' J J, Bikura, ' hooked staff' J, and
Khitimah ' ring,' or ez-Zenid O ' bangle.' The last
is the wasm of the Nu'£m Bedawin. Whether the
wasm Bib, ' door,' r\ which I likewise found there is a
tribe sign of the Beni Sakhr I could not prove with
any certainty. The Arab Segur el-Gh6r, who came
in the neighbourhood of Abu Kebir, have chosen the
Bakura as wasm ; consequently in the upper Gh6r
this sign is found engraved on all the tombs, and in
deserted encampments. This graveyard, extending
from Abu Kebir to Khurbet Jort ed-Dhahab, over a
fruitful district covered with luxuriant D6m growth, is

THE JAULAN. 69

not only interesting on account of its great size
but also on account of its ruined aqueducts and
remains of gardens (ej-Jenln), and for the collector
of tribe signs it is also a most richly yielding spot.
But the 97" to 990 Fah. of the Gh6r must be
borne !
Abu Rumet (D. 3.) — A very small crater on the
Roman road at the southern foot of Tell Abu en-
Nedi. The many springs, pools, and ponds caused this
spot, which formerly lay in the middle of large
Bedawin encampments, to be a much frequented
rendezvous by the Bedawin. Here war was declared
or peace concluded : here the lances of combative
warriors were fixed into the earth side by side as a
sign of the peaceful suspension of hostilities until the
feud was resumed at the decision of the heads of the
tribes : here, too, was acknowledged the blood, shed as
an expiation for blood, which had earlier flowed. Ah
yi Tcherkes ! ' Woe to you Circassians,' called out
my Bedawin at this explanation, ' You rob us of all of
our memorials, our consecrated places, and drive us
back into the stony wilderness, but — Allahu Akbar ! '
(God is great.) Traces of foundation walls, and
many old building stones, prove that Abu Rumet is
an old site.
Burckhardt (' Ritter, Erdkunst' xv., Part. I., 168)
mentions a tank, Abu Ermeil, which, according to his

7o, THE J A ULAN.

description, agrees with the position of Abu Rumet
which he identifies with Birket er-Rim, which
lies much more to the north. Von Schubert also
mentions a place, Abu Ermeil, which he calls 'a
meeting-place of the people from far parts,' which
corresponds with my information about Abu Rumet.
Probably, however, both travellers have erred in the
name of the place, for all the Bedawin were unani
mous in calling it Abu Rumet, and writing it thus,
El-Ahmediyeh (C. 4), often called also el-Hamediyeh
by the Turkomans. It is a somewhat poorly-built
Turkoman village, consisting of twelve huts and
seventy inhabitants, west of Selukiyeh. It lies on
a small declivity, at the western foot of which is a
ruin, called Shuweikeh. This latter apparently marks
the site of the old place, out of which ruins the
Turkomans have built their village. Between the two
places a fine spring flows, irrigating the vegetable
gardens. In the village itself one observes on a
stone inserted in a slab, whose inscription (Fig. 6)

IOYCTI NpJ

Fig. 6.
Inscription at el-Ahmediyeh.
has already been mentioned, a Doric capital, and

THE JAULAN.

7i

close by the Jewish nine-branched candlestick, with
the Jubilee year horn (Fig. 7).

Fig. 7-
Ornament at el-Ahmediyeh.
This Jewish ornamentation, so prominent at Dan-
nikleh, frequently occurs in the surrounding country,
and leads to the assumption that, in the beginning
of our era, the Jewish people predominated in
western and central Jaulin, as is also testified by
Josephus. A little beyond the village, in the south of the
mountain terraces, there is a great depression of the
ground, out of which the Turkomans have got up
large hewn and ornamental building stones, because
they have heard a Mil, a " treasure," lies sunk here.
The basalt stones brought to light present ornamen
tation in relief which are certainly of Roman origin.
At least, the Roman eagle points to this : its image,
though much mutilated now, has been executed with
great care. My guide, a Turkoman Sheikh, stated
that several more of these Sbi, "wild animals," had

72 THE J A ULAN.

been raised, but, owing to their enormous weight,
had fallen back again, and the treasure, which had
already been struck, again covered up (Figs. 8
and 9).

Fig. 8.
Ornament at el-Ahmediyeh.

Fig. 9.
Ornament at el-Ahmediyeh.
The building was, therefore, partly subterranean,
with, perhaps, a gap leading up from the city to the
high-lying fort. The present village apparently
covers the old foundations, of which only traces are
recognisable.

THE JAULAN.

73

El-Ahseniyeh (B. 6). — A ruin of considerable extent
in the north of the Batihah. The rude and hewn
building stones are likewise laid with mortar, and, as
in el-'Araj, the masonry and chiselling is evidently of
Roman origin. The Bedawin began excavating, and
brought to light some interesting pieces of ornamen
tation, which forcibly remind one of the tombs of
the Haurin. They laid bare the building whose
ground-plan is given on Fig. 10. It suggests a

Fig. 10.
Building at el-Ahs6niyeh.

bath arrangement. The floor, F, of the principal
chamber, consists of two different courses : the upper,
i to 2 inches thick, consists of a layer of mortar mixed
with small stones, known and used even at the
present day in Palestine under the name of Barba-
rika ; at a depth of 23 inches is a floor of basalt flags.
Hence it follows from this, as well as from the en
closure walls, that this building has experienced
two architectural periods — that of a Roman and
Moslem.

74

THE JAULAN.

Moreover, the subterranean remains of the neigh
bourhood, which are furnished with cell- work (Fig. 1 1)'

Fig. u.
Cell work at el-Ahs£niyeh.
near which pieces of Roman ornamentation are to be
found (Figs. 12 to 14), point to the conclusion that

0,55

OfiO

'

Figs. 12 — 14.
Fragments of ornamentation found at el-Ahseniyeh.
they were also built in the Haurin style, for all work
of this kind, 19! inches high by 19^ inches wide, with
a like depth bridged over by a stone, and forming
altogether a wall 6\ feet "high, are to be found all
over the Haurin.
It is to be hoped that the zeal of the 'Arab eU

THE J A ULAN. • 75

Tellawiyeh will speedily bring to light some more
discoveries. A second el-Ahseniyeh (B. 4), near el-Fijer, a small
ruin with scattered building stones, and destroyed
Bedawin huts.
'Ain el-Asal (E. 4). — A fine spring below er-
Ruhineh. 'Ain el-Bas&leh (E. 6). — Springs in very stony
ground, with some flow to the Rukkid. In the neigh
bourhood are dolmens.
'Ain el-Beldt (C. 3.). — Several springs, having their
source in isolated rock-holes near Ain el-Tarlj. The
chief spring is clear and fresh, and has a small
deep basin with a strong flow, which, however, soon
becomes boggy. Here is the chief place of 1 encamp
ment of the Arab el-Fadel, particularly the 'Arabs
el-Hawaj, whose pasture lands are always green.
The country round is the stoniest and wildest part of
the Jaulin, because it is here that one of the principal
lava streams of Tell ADU en-Nedi pours forth. Some
remains of earlier building near the junction of the
numerous springs bear the name of ej-Jueizeh (not
the Circassian village ej-Jueizeh).
'Ain ed-Durdara (B. 4).— A bubbling perennial
spring on the slopes of the Jaulin, near the Lake
of Huleh. Ever-verdant grass and vegetation
marks its winding course down the gentle descent
to the lake.

76 THE J A ULAN.-

'Ain Esfera (B. 6). — A ruin, with scattered stones
and folds for the cattle of the Bedawin, on a slight
elevation of the plateau north of el-'Al. The ruin was
once important, but at the present time it is com
pletely destroyed The spring Ain EsfSra lies north
of the ruins ; its channel is boggy and deep, with
some masonry. Let those to whom this district is
unknown be warned of this swampy spring, in whose
extraordinary depth one of my companions, along
with his horse, was in real danger of his life. In the
rainy season it flows into the Widy Ain Esfera, and
through this down into the widies ed-Difleh and
Semakh. 'Ain Eshsheh (D. 4). — A fine large spring, the foot
of the western slope of Shafet Ain 'Eshsheh a small
side spur of the Himi Kursu. The spring has a swift
flow ; the Seil Ain 'Eshsheh forms the beginning of
Widy el-Wishisha.
'Ain el-FAkMireh (C. 6). — A winter village, with
springs on the eastern slope of the Widy es-Semakh.
Only two or three of the persons living in the
eight huts, which each contain from six to ten, live
there permanently.
'Ain el-Fejrah (B. 8). — A small spring overgrown
with reeds on the slope south of Kefr Hirib.
'Ain Fit (C. 2). — A flourishing village of the Nusai-
rieh, on the west of esh-Sharah. It comprises sixty
huts, and, according to the cramped mode of living of

THE J A ULAN. 77

the people, has about 300 inhabitants. Well-cultivated
gardens of fruit trees arid vegetables, and a splendid
spring, together with tobacco and rice fields in the
Huleh marshes, give this village a steady prosperity.
The inhabitants are an industrious friendly people.
They remember very little of the dwellers of their
home in the north of Syria, which they left many
years ago.
Unfortunately, on account of the proximity of the
Huleh bogs, the place is somewhat unhealthy.
'Ain el-Ghazdl (C. 6). — On the Widy esh-Shebib is
a small winter village, consisting of eleven huts and
some ruins. In summer these huts are inhabited by
ten or twelve persons. Near a spring called 'Ain el-
Ghazil. 'Ain el-Ghazdleh (C. 8), in Widy Ain el-Ghazileh.
— This latter is called in its upper part Widy
Samir, and is a large deep valley of 'Ajlun, which
conveys water into the Yarmuk, opposite the Widy
Mas'iud. 'Ain el-Hdjal (D. 3). — A very small winter village
of the Arab el-Fadel, with some old building stones
and a spring, north of Tell el-Baram.
'Ain el-Hajdra (E. 4). — A boggy spring, without
any flow, near el-Breikah. Around the spring are
some stones and ruins.
'Ain el-Hamrd (D. 2). — A little mud village in a
rugged district at the eastern foot of the Tell esh-

78 THE JAULAN.

Sheikhah. A scanty spring languishes down into the
Widy Ain el-Hamri. The village has fallen into
complete decay, and belongs at present to the
Jebita el-Khashab (as also the Merj el-Tabel). It
is, however, under the administration of el-Kuneitrah.
'Ain fibin (D. 7). — Surrounded with good walls, in
which the beginning of an arch may still be observed.
The bright clear water runs out of the small
superstructure into a sarcophagus, and over it down
into the valley. The sarcophagus is of basalt, 6\ feet
long by 27^ inches high, and 23-^ inches wide. On
its longest sides there are two wreaths, like deco
rations tied with a ribbon, similar to those constantly
appearing on sarcophagi. These, however, are de
faced and weather-worn.
'Ain el-Katreineh (D. 2). — A boggy spring of bad
water, with an insignificant flow, in Merj el-Katreineh,
not far from the northern boundary of the Jaurin.
'Ain el-Kruh (B. 7).— A good, clear spring, with a
fig tree and a small stream at Mukatt ej-Jimusiyeh
(west of Kefr Hirib). The country round the spring
is overgrown with Abhar (lilac).
'Ain el-Khurj (D. 5). — A tolerably copious spring,
with clear water in two rock basins. It has no flow,
and is a little north of el-Bireh.
' 'Ain el-Mahyub (C. 4). — A spring with very little
flow, in the valley south of el-Ghadiriyeh, on the
Roman road. There are traces of Dolmens here.

THE J A ULAN. 79

'Ain el-Mdlek (C. 7). — A spring with scarcely any
flow, beneath the Wely J'afer, near Fik.
'Ain el-MarshM (C. 6). — An impure spring on the
eastern edge of the Widy es-Semakh, with scarcely
any flow.
'Ain el-Melekeh (D. 7) the northern, Ain et-Bibi
the southern, and Ain Jibin the central, are springs
of Jibin, on the slopes of the Widy Hetal.
AH these have plenty of water and some flow.
'Ain el-Mu'-allakah (E. 5). — Several springs and
puddles beneath the Kulei'ih hills ; the water is
muddy but drinkable. They lie in a depression
surrounded by sheep folds.
'Ain Musmdr (B. 6). — A remarkably large spring,
surrounded by fig trees, on the northern margin of the
Batihah. Its water flows partly past et-Tell into the
Jordan, and partly southwards through the Batihah
into the swampy creek Zakiyeh. This second arm
is fed in the Batihah by Ain Akel and Ain Umm
el-Lejjah. Both are fine springs surrounded by fig
trees, and used for the irrigation of the Batihah. The
swampy brook is very inconvenient to both horse and
rider, and necessitates a detour in the hot glowing
plain. 'Ain en-Nakhleh (C. 7), Ain Bu'esteh, and Ain
el-Beidah, are three springs in Widy Mas'iud
Conveying some water even in autumn, they
foster a luxuriant growth of brushwood in this

80 THE JAULAN.

widy. At each spring traces of old buildings are
found. 'Ain en-Niswdn (B. 7), 'Spring of the women;'
Ain el-Ariis, ' Spring of the brides ; ' Ain er-Rijil,
' Spring of men ; ' and 'Ain el-Kuhleh, ' Spring of the
Kuhleh horses,' are four moderately large springs,
right under the rocky precipice of Kefr Hirib.
They supply this village with good drinking water.
A little brook, the Seil Ain en-Niswin, trickles down
into the valley.
'Ain Sa'dd (C. 8). — Small ruins, with scanty springs
on the northern slopes of the Yarmuk below Dab
buseh. 'Ain es-Semakh (C. 3). — A large spring north of
Tell esh-Shebin. It becomes boggy during its flow
to the western declivity of Jaulin.
'Ain es-Sidr (C. 7). — A spring with a small stream
on the southern slope of the Widy es-Semakh, near
the ruins et-Tuenni. A side bush dips its roots in
the spring, hence its name.
'Ain es-Simsim (C. 4). — A spring on the Roman
road, not far from Nu'arin, a Turkoman encampment.
' Ain el-Tarij (C. 3). — A spring in the stony district
of ej-Jueizeh. It flows from a crack in the rock, and
has only a very sluggish stream ; but it is copious,
and at its source the water is clear and good.
'Ain Tabakferjeh(D. 7). — A large spring on the east
slope of the Widy H6tal, shaded by three splendid

THE JAULAN.

trees. The name, Jerjeh ('George'), is very rare in
this country, and would probably have its origin in
earlier centuries, perhaps in the days of the Crusaders.
The entire eastern slope of the Widy Hetal is called
Tabak Jerjeh ('Declivity of George'). The spring
was enclosed, and traces of old masonry were also to
be found in the neighbourhood.
'Ain et-Tineh (B. 3). — A plentiful spring above the
Widy el-Hamd, that flows into the Lake of Huleh.
It is shaded by a beautifully grown fig tree.
'Ain Umm 'Otman (B. 8). — A spring with a holy
sepulchre, overshadowed by three magnificent trees,
on the western slope of the Widy Mas'iud.
'Ain Umm Mukhshabi (D. 4). — A feeble spring
near a ruin of the same name, north of er-Rums-
aniyeh. 'Ain Wurdeh (D. 4). — Fine large springs, north of
er-Rumsaniyeh. The springs bubble up out of the
ground and flow in a fresh clear brook into the Widy
er-Ruzaniyeh. They are some of the best and most
copious springs of the Jaulin.
El-'Al (C. 7). — A large, well-built village, on the
point of reviving. It is close to the fall of the widy of
the same name, and comprises 65 dwellings, mostly
built of stone, with pretty summer huts on the
roofs made of willows. The 320 adult inhabitants
cultivate the good, stoneless field, of the contiguous
high plain, and are pretty well independent of the
G

82

THE J A ULAN.

usurers, who have already most of the villages of the
high plain in their power. In the east of the village
an abundant spring with an insignificant flow. It
has a setting of flag stones. The dwellings of the
Sheikh are spacious and carefully built, and in them
strangers are hospitably entertained by the tribal

Fig. 15,
Basalt Statue at el'Al.
Sheikh, who comes from the most respected old
family of the land.
The half-forgotten ancient name of the village
seems to have been 'Ain el-Kahwa ; but I cannot go

THE J A ULAN

83

bail for this information, as it appears only to have
remained in the remembrance of a few old people of
the village. The situation of the village is somewhat
low ; the surrounding territory sinks towards the fall
of the Widy el-'Al, which, falling in terraces, presents
wild romantic scenery.
The whole neighbourhood of the village contains
several antiquities of strikingly Roman characters.
In the courtyard of the Sheikh there is a beautiful
statue in basalt, 31 feet in height : it probably repre
sents a Greek goddess, whose robe, girded round the

Fig. 16.
hips, clings to the body in full folds of drapery
(Fig. 15). In the left hand she holds a shield; the
right is broken off. Unfortunately, the head is broken
G 2

84

THE J A ULAN.

off as well, and the feet are destroyed by the destruc
tive Bedawin, according to the asseverations of the
Sheikh. In the same courtyard lies a small kind of
sepulchral stone, 315 inches high, with a Greek
inscription and ornamentation of a rude Doric
character. (Fig. 16a). Its execution is much more
imperfect than that of the statue. The portion
broken off, with the continuation of the inscription
(b), I found set in in the lintel of the door of the
Menzul. The breadth of the two pieces amounts
to 14 inches. Besides this there are several remains
of basalt columns in the stable belonging to
the Sheikh, certainly only the shafts, no capital,
and here and there a fragment of Roman cornice
(Fig. 17). Beyond — particularly in the east of the

Fig. 17.
village — the inhabitants have discovered a large
number of basalt sarcophagi. Several of them are
entirely destroyed : not one is entirely preserved, ,
and only one distinguished by good work in high
relief is found on its south side (Fig. 18). A
small head looks out from a medallion, which is
held by two females, whilst in the other hand they

THE JAULAN.

85

hold up a palm branch as a symbol of peace.
Although their heads are destroyed, the curly hair
on them is still perceivable. The man's head has
also the same kind of hair : his upper lip is covered

^wfilS

Fig. 18.
Side view of Sarcophagus at el'AL
with a moustache. The execution of the work is
artistic, but at the same time not noble. The sarco
phagus is basaltic, and 6^ feet long, and 19^ inches
broad. Avarice 'and curiosity will prompt the in
habitants of el-'Al to further investigations, which
will result in bringing more discoveries to light.
El-'Amudtyek'{C. "5>.— A ruin with a few winter
huts on the widy of the same name, which joins the
Widy el-Yehudiyeh. There is little" to be seen now
9f pillars which have given the place its name.
The position is beautiful ; the widy falls over high
basalt terraces below the ruin. Unfortunately, it was
not possible to examine the place more closely.

86 THE JAULAN.

'Arab ed-Diab, (C. 6).-. — A Bedawin tribe,, possess
ing about I20tents, and camping between Jnramiyah
and the Widy es-Semakh.. Formerly prosperous
and respected, they are to-day a beggared, degene
rated people.
'Arab el-Ekseirin (D.. 6).— In. the south of Tell el-
Faras, down to the neighbourhood of Khisfin. The
encampment comprises about 8o tents.
'Arab el-Fadel (C. 3). — An aristocratic Bedawin
tribe, which considers upper northern. Jaulin as its
own. The head of the tribe is an Emir (Prince)
who dwells quietly in a splendid tent furnished with
costly carpets ; and who receives guests with dignity
and pride, begging of them anything that excites
his pleasure. The tribe numbers about 320 tents,
which are large and small, richly and meagrely
furnished according to descent from the family
of the Emirs, or cattle-rearers. The former pride
themselves on their knowledge of writing, which,
however, is of so^ deficient a nature, that they were
only able to comprehend the orders of the Kaimakims
of el-Kuneitrah, when I threatened, to set up my tent
in the midst of the Sheikh encampment,. in the mean
time getting orders from the governor which were
more within reach of their understanding. A. guide
was procured finally by grumbling and scoldings, who
afterwards displayed so unsympathetic a manner that
we were glad when we were able to dispense with him.

THE JAULAN 87

They are regarded by their neighbours as a haughty
people, and as enemies by the adjoining Circassians.
Between the two it has already come to fights, in one
of which the father of the present young Emir, the
Sheik Shehadi el-Fadel, fell. Since then they regard
the Circassians as deadly foes, and the slightest
occasion leads to bloody quarrels. Consequently
both parties keep carefully apart Besides extensive
cattle rearing and insignificant agriculture, they are
now trying vine cultivation, but the attempt made by
the Kurm el-Emir, in the western edge of the plateau
not far from Skekrwas certainly anything but pro
mising. The Fadel possess numerous winter villages.
A branch of this tribe is the Arab el-Hawaj, who
graze on the Ain el-Belit and at the foot of the Tell
esh-Shebin, which is zealously watched and revered
by the whole tribe on account of the Emirs buried
there. The number of their tents amount to 60.
' Arab ej-fe' dtin (C.5). — A tribe whose number nearly
reaches that of the Arab el-Wesiyeh. They have
about 100 tents between Selukiyeh and the Widy
Joramayah, and are peaceful frontier neighbours of the
Wesiyeh. In former times they carried on a carpet
industry, and produced masterpieces in this art by
weaving together bright-coloured threads of goats'
hair. This industry was exclusively in the hands of
the women and girls. We procured a carpet of this
kind upon which a girl of the tribe had been engaged

THE JAULAN.

from her youth to her marriage in her 20th year.
Certainly a model of perseverance and industry. Al
together, with this carpet, we carried away a pleasant
remembrance of the Bedawin couple ; the old woman
who had to decide about the purchase of the carpet,
raised it up several times, announcing finally, " If you
will add two Mejedies (9 francs) to the prime cost, so
that I can purchase a respectable honourable tomb
for my tribe-comrades, you can take it away." And
so it happened.
'A rab el-Kef ardt (C. 8), or el-Ekfarat. — The Bedawin
of Kefarit, the north-eastern district of Ajlun. They
are partly Fellahin, who in spring only pasture their
cattle and cultivate the slopes in the valley of the
Yarmuk from el-Mukhaibeh to the Rukkid ; but who
in summer and winter withdraw to theplateau of Ajlun,
only passing a few weeks in the valley at harvest
time. 'Arab el-Menddireh (D. 7). — The Bedawin tribe from
which the Yarmuk gets its name of Sheri'it el-Meni
direh. They are a thrifty industrious little people, who
have established themselves in the valley of the Yar
muk, upon whose slopes, from the Rukkid upwards,
they graze and plant. Like all the Bedawin tribes of
this valley they are under the jurisdiction of the
Ajlun, and in certain details also that of the Haurin
(see Schumacher's 'Across the Jordan.' 4, 12, &c.)
'Arab el-Mukhaibeh (C. 8). — A small poor Bedawin

THE JAULAN. 89

tribe, with hardly 30 tents. Their cattle feed in the
valley of the Yarmuk, from ed-Du6r upwards to the
hot springs of el-Mukhaibeh, on the Yarmuk. Their
sheikh, Kiid, considers himself the owner of the great
palm-wood at el-Mukhaibeh, which in its way is a
unique phenomena of the east Jordan valley. In the
bathing season (April and .May) the tribe furnish the
hundreds of bathing visitors in el-Hammeh with
sheep, goats, and vegetables. The tribe is under
the jurisdictionof Jrbid in 'Ajlun.
'Arab en-Ne'arneh (B. 4) have 70 tents in the
country of Nu'arin and el-'Ulleika. They cultivate
corn, and, as second crop, some Italian corn (dura
Safra), which they water and guard with Argus-eyes ;
for, during the hot season of the year, travellers as
well as cattle are glad to consume the knots or
stalks for refreshment.
'Arab en-Nu'em (E. 5), or en-Nu'em el-Yusef. A
large wealthy Bedawin tribe, which is. spread over east
Jaulin and north Haurin to Nawa. The number of
their tents in Jaulin amount to 280 ; their head
quarters in summer are at Tell el-Faras, whose
country, rich in springs, is well suited for their great
herds of cattle. According to the latest orders, the
Government is driving them out of this country, be
cause they wish to keep the luxuriant pasturage for
their own flocks in Damascus. So the Nu'6m, with
sad countenances, retire eastward, always further away

90 THE JAULAN.

from the alluring Belid er-Rabi, of which the Govern
ment officials have seized possession and only left a
part to the Circassians.. The Nu'em are peacefully
disposed, and friendly to strangers,, and; indulgent to.
the Wesiyeh Bedawin, who serve them (see above) ; in
them the Jaulin loses its best Bedawin tribe. The
tribal mark of the Nu'em has the Khitima Q be
tween two- strokes | |, el-Matirik (Sing, Matrik),,
consequently the following wasm, \ Q | ; the two
strokes signify lances driven into the ground, the
sign of truce.
A small branch tribe of the 'Arab en-Nu'em el-
Yusef are the 'Arab es^Sebdrdjah (D. 4), who occupy
about 25 tents in the country of er-Rumsaniyeh..
They cultivate some land and rear cattle..
'Arab er-Rekibdt (B. 7) (or Erkebit), the " owners "'
of the Widy es-Semakh. — This small Bedawin tribe
of about 80 tents has- established itself principally
in the valley, and built a few miserable huts out
of the ruins. Their head-quarters are found at the
winter village of el-'Ad£seh. Besides,, they cultivate.
a portion of the east coast of the Lake of Tiberias,
and are consequently in part tributary t© the Kada
Tubarlya. They are a. poor but friendly people,
although malicious tongues aver they are unable to
leave off their unpleasant vagabond, habits.. But they
are by no means bloodthirsty, and are eontented with
little. On their account the east shore of the lake

THE JAULAN. 91

is in somewhat bad repute, and not unjustly, if they
are the same of whose robbing propensity Seetzen
has already spoken (' Ritter Erdkunst' xv., 272).
'Arab Segur el-Ghdr (B. 8).— A branch tribe of the
Beni Sakhr; who, in earlier times, possessed the upper
part of the Jordan, valley,, but have now been driven
further southi At the end of the last and beginning
of this - century they were the most fearful robbers,
and even to-day, the booty-loving Segur el-Gh6r
give the Kada Tubariya, to whom they are tributary,
plenty of work.
'Arab es-Siydd (B. 4). — On the east coast and slopes
of the Huleh Sea. They are a small tribe ; I counted
about 40 tents- ; but there is possibly another portion
of it in the lowlands of the Huleh Sea.
' Arab, et-TeUaiviyeh (B. 6). — This tribe camps in the
Batihah, and on the low slopes bounding it on the
north. They grow corn, grain, and vegetables on
the plain ; and in the rainy season withdraw to their
winter villages, et-Tell and el-Mes'adiyeh, in the
Batihah, and er-Rafid on the Jordan, a part also
to ed-Dikkeh. Their name is derived from the village
et-Tell, and they have about 50 tents, whose in
habitants in Batihah are under the jurisdiction of
the Kada of Tiberias, whilst the other villages are
under that of el-Kuneitrah.
'Arab Turkomdn Teljeh (C. 4). — A Turkoman tribe
of the Jaulin. The 300 tents which they possess are

92 THE JAULAN.

on the whole somewhat better than those <of the
Bedawin Arabs; their draperies, also, with a 'design
imitated from the Persian, differ from that of the
goat-hair carpets found in the Bedawin tents, al
though the Turkoman formerly supplied the Bedawin
with carpets. They have numerous flocks of cattle,
which are valued less for their race and milk than as
fatted cattle, which are excellent and much sought
after. Besides this they possess a noble breed of
horses, the best of all, except those of the 'Anazeh
Bedawin of the Haurin. The chief Sheikh declared
to me that he had recently sold a snow white mare
for 1,000 Napoleons, in ready money. Their head
quarters are -situated on the beautiful spring of el-
Ghadiriyeh, but several families have permanently
settled themselves in the villages. Their winter vil
lages in the Jaulin are, like those of the Bedawin,
miserable quarters. They are also great beggars, and
never hesitate when occasions arise to compound to
their own advantage ' mine and thine.' Consequently
these great bearded individuals do notinspire a traveller
with much confidence, but they are very hospitable.
'Arab el- Wesiyeh (B. 5). — As has been already said,
this Bedawin tribe lives in blood feud with the tribe of
the Tellawiyeh, a state of things productive of great
unpleasantness to the visitor of these close lying
districts. They graze on a narrow strip of central Jaulin, from

THE JAULAN. 93

the east of Jordan to Ghidir en-Nuhas, are fairly
big cattle rearers, and have 120 tents. A small part
has separated from the tribe, drawn off eastward, and
pasture their cattle on the land of the great tribe of
the Arab en-Nu'£m at Tell el-Faras, in return for
which they give a share of the stock. During the
rainy season they withdraw to a number of winter
villages, but their head-quarters remain at 'Elmin.
'Ardk Abu fedeiyeh (B. 8). — Steep earth walls on
the Yarmuk below Khirbet Jort ed-Dhahab in the
Gh6r, which are formed, by the bed of the river
becoming gradually deeper.
'Ardk el-Ahmar (C. 8). — A rugged precipice with
basaltic heaps on the northern slope of the Yarmuk,
west of Dabbuseh.
'Ardk el-Arrdbeh (B..8).' — The northern slopes of
the Yarmuk, not far from el-Hammeh, which fall in
terraces from Sahel el-'Arrabeh, on the high plateau,
to the river.
El-'Araj (B. 6). — A large, completely destroyed
site, close to the lake in the Batihah. The building
stones of basalt are unusually large ; also the foun
dations, which are still visible, and are built in part
with white mortar. A group of palm trees stands
south of the ruin, and dips its roots in the mud of
the damp marshes, over which the traveller is
brought by an old stone path. It is not possible
for riding animals to cross it, for the stones have

94 THE J A ULAN.

become so loose, and no longer permit a firm footing.
But as there is a threatening morass 6\ feet deep
on each side of the old dam, they must pass on
the upper part of the plain. This dyke is the
remnant of an old practicable Roman road, whose
traces can be followed from el-'Araj. to et-Tell.
For several years a large well-built corn maga
zine has stood on the ruin. It is the Hisil of the
famous leader of the Mecca pilgrims, Muhammed
Sa'id Pasha, who, beside his religious claims, has
also a large interest in the finest and most lucra
tive strip of land of the Jaulin and Haurin, and
over these rules with almost unlimited power, and
free from all taxes. He is also the owner of a
part of the Batihah. In the neighbourhood of this
magazine the Bedawin of the plain are encamped :
here the Kubtiyin idle, here the fishermen from
Tiberias land and mend their nets, here also the
traveller finds a guide for the country most easily,
and in wet weather finds excellent lodgings with
the manager of the magazine, unless the latter is
absent in Tiberias for purposes of recreation at that
particular time.
Ard el-' Aid (C. 7)._West of el-Yikusa, bordering
the Ard el-Rummaneh.
Ard el-BaM a and 'Ain el-Balu'a (C. 2).— The
country and springs in the north of stony Jaulin.
The country is so called — Bilu'a means abyss,

THE JA ULAN. 95

grave — because it was the scene of bloody feuds
between the villages of Skek and Summika at
the time when these were still inhabited. The
Bedawin still speak with horror of that period,
scarcely a generation back. The spring is perennial
and irrigates some vegetable gardens near Kurm
el-Emir. Ard ehEkhdeiyil (B. 6). — A stony district of land
in the Batihah near el-Ahs£niyeh.
Ard el-Hitleh (B. 3). — The whole country of the
marshes of the Huleh Lake, a swampy territory
thickly overgrown with papyrus. It abounds in
snipe, wild ducks, francolins and many other kinds
of birds, and is consequently much resorted to by
the hunter, but as carefully avoided by the inhabit
ants on account of the noxious fever.
Ard er-Rummdneh (C. 7). — The plain south-east
of Fik, formerly a pomegranate tree garden (Rum-
man). El-'ArSt (B 6). — The bald terraced mountain ridge
which extends from el-Liweh, in the north of the
Widy es-Semakh towards the lake. According to
its position and nature, and leaving Gadara out of
the question, it corresponds to the place mentioned
in the Bible where the swine ' ran violently down
a steep place into the sea' (Matt. viii. 28), because
the precipices fall more ruggedly here than anywhere
else on the east coast of the lake ; and, moreover,

96 THE JA ULAN.

Kursi, which nominally corresponds to 'the Biblical
Gergesa, lies at the foot of this fall.
'Arkub et-Tiniyeh (B. 8).— Also a. part of the
northern slopes of the Yarmuk, not far from
ed-Duer, terminating in a circular cone.
El- Aseliyeh (B 5). — A ruin of unusual extent,
with an enormous number of large hewn and unhewn
building stones, giving evidence that at one time this
place was of great importance.
The meaning of the name, " place of honey," does
not bring us any nearer to the history of the old
place ; and the ruins, so far as I could judge in a
hasty examination, do not point to. any definite
period of architecture. Mid-way below them is the
grave of the Sheikh Musa, who is so much honoured
that the place is known by the collective names of
Sheikh Miisa wa'l-'Aseliyeh. I am, however, unable
to fix the age to which this Moslem saint belongs.
West of the ruins, where the basalt terraces make
a fall, we saw traces of a firm city wall, built of
powerful rude squares, which surrounded the lower
portion of the town, where a beautiful plain stretches
against the lava terraces. At the foot of the latter,
the clear abundant spring, Ain esh-Sheikh Musa,
bubbles forth from a solid stone setting built with
white mortar ; it irrigates the environs. There is
also here a Mazir or memorial of the Sheikh Miisa
shaded by large and very old terebinths and oaks.

THE JAULAN. 97

Other building remains, and large hewn stones pre
sent themselves in the neighbourhood.
'Atdli ed-Duer (B. 8). — Perpendicular basalt walls
at the ruined village of ed-Duer which bound the
course of the Yarmuk.
El- Awdnish (B. 7). — Ruins of a village with some
old remains and a good strong spring on a level and
very well-sheltered spot, immediately below the steep
upper walls of the Widy es-Semakh. The spring,
Ain Awinlsh, flows from the Widy es-Semakh and
irrigates the ground near the bottom of the valley.
At the foot of the slope below the ruin there is an
isolated lime-stone hill, with a solitary well-built
winter hut belonging to the Arab er-Rekebit, called
Ferj Awinlsh. The mountain ridge above the ruin
is also called el-Awinlsh. According to the state
ment of the natives, the place was once important,
and this is confirmed by the fact that the same name
is attached to several places in the neighbourhood ;
but all the same, the place cannot have been of
great extent.
El-'Aweindt (D. 2). — Three springs, without any
flow, close to the northern border of the Jaulin ;
the water is bad, and is used only for the flocks.
'Ayiln (B. 8). — A ruined village in the southern ex
tremity of the Jaulin plateau, on the western margin
of the Widy Mas'aud. The old settlement covered a
space of several hektars, and presents traces of different
H

THE JAULAN.

masonry of modern, mediseval, and ancient times. A
number of large, mostly unhewn, basalt stones lie
heaped up between the falling huts of a Bedawin
winter village ; the foundation walls of buildings in
Moslem times, and Roman remains in the form of
basaltic shafts of columns, still exist ; these last
measure 5 feet in length, and 12 inches across. There
are also some old subterranean corn magazines with
traces of basalt roofing. An old basalt stone, 28
inches long, at present the door-post of a small hut,
bears the Greek inscription of Fig. 19. In any case, at

Fig. 19.
Inscription on door post in 'Ayun.
one time, the place must have been important. On
account of its position it commanded the outlet of
the Widy Mas'iud and the valley of the Yirmuk,
with the country of el-Hammeh. The head of the

THE J A ULAN. 99

valley falling eastward is called Widy Ayun,
lower down, where it joins the Yirmuk, Widy el-
Mugheiyir. While I was stopping there a band
of Ghawirneh gipsies had several donkeys yoked
together, treading out the maize, whilst the women
cooked beneath the open sky, and some half-grown
impudent youths busied themselves in bringing the
threshed-out maize into one of the old corn store
houses of Ayun. Others made faces at us. Maize
flourishes excellently on the southern plateau.
'Ayun el-Fahm (D. 5). — A number of fine springs
at Tell el-Ferj, whose waters irrigates the upper
Joramiyah. 'Ayun Mukhladi (C. 4). — Large running springs
above el-'Ulleika. The clear stream contains excel
lent drinking water and flows into the Widy Ketr
Naphakh. One arm of the stream crosses the
Roman road and flows in a curve below the Wely
Marzuk, likewise into the above mentioned widy,
after having been already used to irrigate the Italian
corn. The lower portion of the springs bear traces
of masonry, aqueducts, &c, which, however, may very
likely be modern.
'Ayun es Suwdn (D. 3). — A large Circassian village
near el-Kuneitrah, situated on both sides of the spring
and pool of the same name in the midst of a beautiful
and fertile plain. It is bounded on the west by Tell
Abu en-Nedi, and in the east by the spurs of the
H 2

ico THE JAULAN.

Himi Kursu. The village comprises at the present
day ioo buildings, with about 450 inhabitants above
the age of 10 years. The buildings are composed of
basalt stone, without any mortar, but the walls are
firm and solidly built Each dwelling-house, with its
little vegetable garden, is encircled by a court.
On an open place bordering the spring is the
Mosque, shaded by willows, never absent from a
Circassian village. The whole conveys an impres
sion of industry, order, and cleanliness. In opposi
tion to the dirty narrow streets of the Fellahin
villages, which wind irregularly between the huts and
ruins, and which are beset with lazy Arabs, we find
here broad straight streets, filled with active busy
figures, always on the alert to repair damages, and
build up anew what is necessary. There are heaped-
up hay-cocks, reminding one pleasantly of home, and
creaking two-wheeled carts are drawn over the even
streets. If only the faces were in harmony with
the peaceful conduct ! Instead, one sees nothing
but wild, forbidding, malicious faces, and a stranger
scarcely ever receives a friendly greeting. The
graveyards also outside the village are carefully
kept. No ancient remains are to be found. The village
only arose about 7 years ago, and was only arbitrarily
designated by the officials in el-Kuneitrah according
to their own admission. But there lies, here and

THE J A ULAN.

there, some old building stone that has come from
the walls, and we might perhaps have been able to
discover some name, handed down by tradition, if
the Bedawin had not been driven away.
The Circassian villages increase rapidly. Ayun
es-Suwin, for instance, a year ago had only 60 dwell
ing houses. The population increases with the exten
sion of landed property and the clearance of the
ground from bushes and stones.
'Aylin Tawdrik Hital (D. 7). — Eighteen moderately
large springs on the north and eastern slopes of the
Widy Hetal. Oleander and kuseb (cane) bushes
mark out their course down the slopes.
'Ayi\n et-Tdm (D. 4). — Several large springs which
discharge into the Widy Selukiyeh. The Arab es-
Sebirdjah encamps in the neighbourhood of them.
Ayun Yusef (D. 4). — Three fine springs at. the foot
of the Tell Abu Yusef. They flow into the Widy
ed-Delhamiyeh. 'Ayun ez-Zddra (E. 5). — Numerous springs at the
foot of Tell el-Faras ; is one of the principal encamp
ments of the Arab en-Nu'em. As the country is
tolerably stoneless, gardens can be laid out without
much trouble.
El- Azariyeh* (B. 2).— Also called el-'Ozeiriyit, a
village in the plain of Baniis, which I did not visit.
Bdb et-Tumm (A. 8) is the name given to the
southern mouth of the Jordan from the Lake of

THE JAULAN.

Tiberias. During the largest part of the year a
boat is kept there ready to transport animals and
baggage. Baheiret el-Huleh (B. 4). — This lake measures at its
greatest length l\ miles, and 3 miles at its greatest
breadth. The measurements vary considerably in
consequence of the low swampy bank, and also ac
cording to the amount of rain during the year. As
another consequence the form of the lake, more
especially in the north, where several arms of the
Jordan discharge, is not always the same. Altogether
the lake is pear-shaped in form, with its largest curve
on the west coast and a sharp point on the south.
The east coast is luxurious for the growth of plants,
but gets somewhat boggy in the north. Its level is
only about 7 feet above the Mediterranean Sea.
(Western Survey, P.E.F.). The district is hot and
malarious but the favourite resting place of the
water-fowl. The Baheiret el-Huleh is identified
with the Lake of Hermon of the Old Testament, and
Lake of Semechonitis of Josephus.*
* It is customary to identify the Lake Huleh with the ' waters
of Merom ' (Jos. xi. 57), but this is neither capable of proof
nor probable. It should be observed that Josephus ('Ant.,'
V. i. 18) places the spot where the defeat of Jabin at Beroth
took place in Upper Galilee, and consequently does not look
for it in the Jordan lowlands. Instead of the Lake of Seme
chonitis, according to Josephus (4 Wars. I. 1), it is ' Lake of
the Semechonites,' viz., of the inhabitants of the district of
Semechonitis, or of a place called Semechon.

THE J A ULAN. 103

Bahr Tubariya. — The Lake of Tiberias. The whole
coast district is under the administration of the Kada
Tubariya. From its inlet to its outlet the lake is
nearly 13 miles long and 5^- miles broad from Tiberias
to Khirbet el-'Ashek, on the east coast. It reaches
its greatest width several miles north of Tiberias and
tapers somewhat at each extremity. Rather more
south than the Jordan mouth lies Semakh, so that the
greatest length of the lake is 13 miles exactly. At
Semakh its southern end forms a beautiful rounded
bay, which is enclosed by earth walls from 16 to 33
feet high ; whilst the northern end east of the Jordan
has a very flat coast, penetrating with bays and creeks
into the swampy Batihah.
Whilst the western coast is rocky and stony, the
entire east coast bounds a fine fruitful plain about
878 yards broad (see Fig. 20, and View of Widy
es-Semakh). On the eastern edge of this plain the
Jaulin slopes begin to rise steeply. A gravel stratum
lies immediately on the east coast. With the ex
ception of the Widy es-Semakh and the Widy Fik
or Enghib, which have abundant water in winter, but
dried up in summer, there are only a few small widies
which feed the lake from the east. In summer it is
only the afflux of the Jordan and a few small streams
on the western coast which feed the lake ; conse
quently the surface of the water, which, according to
the Survey of Western Palestine (P.E.F.), lies 6,82'5

104

THE JAULAN.

feet beneath the level of the Mediterranean Sea, sinks
and rises somewhat according to the season of the
year. The fluctuations may easily be recognised on the
white deposit marks on the town walls of Tiberias.

Mouth of W. Fik.

El-Kuweiyir. Kurein Jeradeh.

Fig. 20.
View of eastern shore of Sea of Galilee.
My observations at different times of the year yielded
the result that the greatest fall for many years was
obtained on December 17th, 1884, in consequence of

THE JAULAN. 105

the lack of rain. The water stood at that time 4^
feet lower than on the 4th January of the same year,
20 J inches lower than on February 27th, 1884, and
14^ inches lower than on September 28th, 1884. The
water of the lake is sweet and tolerably clear. Storms
and sudden currents, with bounding waves, are not
uncommon, so that a journey across in spring and
winter, with bad sailing boats unskilfully guided
amongst the ships of Tiberias, is not always unattended
with danger. In summer the heat on the lake and
surrounding region is rather too depressing, conse
quently one should always choose the very earliest
hours in the morning for riding and working. The
lake contains a quantity of eatable fish of all descrip
tions, which are named in the volume treating of the
Flora and Fauna of Palestine in the English ' Survey
of Western Palestine' (P.E.F-). Also crabs, and in
winter many sea-fowl, principally wild ducks and
water hens, enliven the shore. The east coast was
formerly covered with towns and buildings, as is
proved by the numerous ruins. To-day there are
only two villages still standing, Semakh and es-
Samra. At the foot of the mountain Moka'adla
several sulphur springs break out on the coast ; they
are called el-Hammeh, and have a temperature of
1050 (at an atmospheric temperature of 940), and each
pour forth about 4 gallons of water a minute.
This small quantity soon trickles into the gravel,

106 THE JAULAN.

whereas by a proper enclosure of the spring it could
be easily kept together.
El-Batihah (B. 6). — The ordinary name for the
charming plain surrounded by gentle slopes on the
eastern edge of the Lake of Tiberias. Its extent
between the Jordan and the ruin Duket Kefr Akib
is 4 miles : between the mouth of the Widy Jora
mayeh and its entrance into the plain is 3 miles,
whilst its breadth in the centre reaches only 1^ miles.
The ground, probably a part of the old lake basin, is
muddy but rough, and owing to the deposits of four
large rivers which convey their silt and discharge
themselves into the plain, it has become more and
more raised.
The plain is sown two or three times during the
year by the Arab el-Tellawiyeh, and grazed by the
buffalo herds of the Ghawirneh, or Kubtiyin. Numer
ous large springs break forth on the northern edge :
the water is used by the Bedawin to irrigate the fields
after the first corn harvest in June, in which they
then sow Indian corn. When this is gathered in they
plant vegetables and water melons. All three har
vests yield abundant produce. In its lower part on
the Lake the Batihah is very marshy; the Lake
breaks deeply into the land (Zaklyeh), making the
coast completely untraversable. In its north-western
part the plain is covered with ruins, most of which
are of fair size. The Bedawin have constructed

THE JAULAN. 107

winter huts out of the old building stones. The
Batihah is poor in tree growth : this only begins on
the northern edge. Wild figs, Pomegranates and
Dom, are to be found in the neighbourhood of the
springs : palms and fruit trees in el-Mes'adiyeh and
el-'Arij. As to the aloes mentioned by earlier
travellers, only stunted remains are now to be seen in
the burying-ground of et-Tell. The temperature of
the plain is a very high scorching one, like that of
the Jordan Valley, and during the south wind
especially is nearly unbearable. Add to this the
marshy ground on the coast it will be seen that the
climate of the Batihah is an unhealthy one, and
breeds fever. By proper drainage this nuisance could
be somewhat lessened, and, at the same time, the
productiveness of the soil increased.
Bedarus (C'3). — A large ruin in stony Jaulin. Al
though there are no huts, nor a single entire building
to be found at this place, there are a great number,
mostly unhewn, of large building stones on square
foundations to be found here, that it is evident this is
the site of a well-built town of considerable size and
great antiquity. These ruins have fallen together
in heaps, and lie in such confusion that nature, pro
bably by an earthquake, must have contributed to
the work of demolition. There are traces of an old
road leading from Telestin right through the ancient
site southwards to the Roman road. Further distant

108 THE J A ULAN.

we find old burial places which are overlaid with
basalt slabs, and also large subterranean rooms, 13
and 16 feet square, which are enclosed by blocks of
basalt still standing, and were originally roofed with
the same material, but are now exposed and ruined
owing to the avarice of the Turkoman. The walls
measure, so far as is visible, from 30 to 40 inches
in thickness. The following diagrams illustrate the
arrangement of the layers (Fig 21). The gaps are not

Fig. 21.
Layers of Basalt Stone Wall.
filled in with mortar ; nevertheless they are never
wider apart than one-third of an inch at most, and the
stones are unhewn. As for ornamentation, I found
a column or capital in the Haurin style (see Jibin
and Kuneitrah), and a simple rectilineal cross on a
pyramid-shaped stone lately dug up. From that it
may be concluded that there was once a Christian
settlement at this place. If once the rubbish was
cleared away and the foundations laid bare, there is
no doubt that the veil over the part of this, as well
as many other large ruins of Jaulin, would be lifted.

THE JAULAN. 109

Ben et-Tellul (B. 8). — The country between the
Tellul es-S'ilib and the slopes of southern Jaulin, not
far from the southern bay of the Lake of Tiberias.
It forms a proper continuation of the east coast of
the lake — a fruitful tract.
Bir ej-fekum (B. 7). — A miserable village, consisting
of thirty-one huts, built out of basalt and clay, situated
on the western slope of Jaulin, near Skufiyeh. It
contains 150 inhabitants. The Fellahin cultivate the
slopes and some land on the east coast of the lake.
Bir el-Ajam (E. 4). — A large Circassian village on
the Hami-Kursu, consisting of separate parts. It is
built in the same sort of way as Ayun es-Suwin,
comprises at the present day about eighty huts, and
according to the nominal census 340 souls. A fine
spring lies in the north, and another near a pond in
the south, of the prosperous village.
Bir el-Kabak (D. 5). — Several perennial springs in
Widy Selukiyeh. From here downwards the valley
is called Widy Bir el-Kabak.
Bir et-Truh (D. 7).— A large pool with a spring,
on the road by the village Hetal. Beautiful oleanders
grow. El-Bireh(D. 5). — A winter village of twelve stone
huts and several ruined ones, in the possession of the
Arab ej-Je'itin. A number of large unhewn building
stones lie round a very old Butmeh (terebinth), which
shades the grave of a saint and a Bedawin grave-

no THE JAULAN.

yard. Between them traces of rectangular founda
tions present themselves. The ruins cover an area of
about 64 acres, consequently the place was not un
important. The name may possibly be explained by
the Aramaic signification of ' Fort Castle ;' we have
then the alternative of recognising in the ruins of an
old fort, or that the name refers to a colossal cleaved
block of rock, a fragment of the burnt lava stream
which lies in proximity to the terebinth. North of
the place the good spring Ain el-Bireh flows, con
veying its water to the Widy el-Bireh, and runs in a
narrow stony channel into the Widy el-Yehudiyeh,
but takes before the junction the name of Seil el-
Kurdiyeh. Birket el-Ekfeir (C. 2). — A large natural reservoir,
north of Za'ora, supposed to have been a spring.
From here one can obtain a wonderful view over
Baniis, its castle, and the upper course of the Jordan.
Birket ej-farab (B. 8). — See el-Hammeh.
Birket Rdm (D. 2). — A small inland lake of northern
Jaulin, called by the inhabitants of Mejdel esh-
Shems, Birket Rim ; by the inhabitants of the Druse
villages, el-Buk'iti and Jebata el-Khashab, its name
is Birket Rin. Thus both names are usual. In
June, 1885, the lake measured at its greatest length,
from south-east to north-west, 690 yards, and at its
greatest breadth, near the middle, 523 yards.
Its circumference is about 1,744 yards ; in the east

THE JAULAN

its long rounded form has a small bay. The lake
evidently fills up the mouth of a crater.
It has neither affluents nor effluents on the sur
face, but is enclosed by steep crater walls of earth
and basalt rocks, which rise to 200 feet above the
level of the water ; this belt is highest in the south,
sinks towards the north, and is lowest in the north
west. The rear of the belt, which makes a fair circle
round the Birkeh, is extraordinarily narrow, and falls
off sharply outwards, so that the crater stands some
what isolated. It is only in the south that the slope
of the Krum et-Turkoman comes quite close to the
walls of the crater ; on the other side it is bordered
by the Merj el-Yafureh. The water-mark of the
lake very much depends on the amount of rain of
the year, so that the form and size fluctuate. This
observation is confirmed by the fact that when the
above measurements were made, a narrow plain of
from 50 to 70 feet between the brink of the water
and the slope was left, and traces of an expanded
surface of water were visible upon it. The coast and
an inner strip, 70 to 100 feet, are overgrown with
swamp vegetation, in which numerous gorgeous toads
move about Near the shore the water is clear and
pleasant tasting, and has no brackish after-taste ; its
temperature is jy° Fah. at an atmospheric tempera
ture of 8i° Fah. In the middle, where the water is
free of any kind of plant growth, there is, according

THE J A ULAN.

to the unanimous testimony of the natives, a whirl
pool, to which they would only venture by dint of
tremendous promises. As we had no boat at hand
we were unable to test their statement, or to settle
whether the lake basin in the centre is really of un
fathomable depth. Fish are not to be found in the
lake, but I observed some beautiful large blackish-
green turtles. Numerous sweet springs break out
on the coasts, but their slight flow does not nearly
replace the daily evaporation.
Consequently, one may conclude with certainty
that there are subterranean channels or springs,
because, in the absence of these, the water of the
lake dependent on the rain for replenishment would
lose its clear freshness. The surface of the water
lies 3,360 feet above the level of the Mediterranean
Sea. On the shore we find huts of underwood and
earth, which serve the inhabitants of Mejdel esh-
Shems as places of ambush for duck-shooting in
winter. These birds appear in such large flocks, that
on the shore at nights they can be knocked down
dead with sticks.
Birket Rim must be identical with the Lake Phaila
of Josephus (3 Wars, X. 7), because its position, as
well as form, corresponds with the statement of the
Jewish writer. But his assumption, and that shared
by his contemporaries, that the lake is the real
source of the Jordan, is no longer considered worth

THE J AULA N.

"3

any one's serious notice. (As regards Burckhardt's
confusion of Birket Rim— not er-Rim— with ' Birket
Hefah,' see under Kefr Naphikh.)
El-Breikah (E. 4).— One of the largest and best
of the Circassian villages at the northern foot of
the Tell el-'Akkisheh. It contains more than
100 houses, 85 families, or about 425 inhabi
tants, amongst them 68 fighting men. This vil
lage, like others belonging to the Circassians, cheers

Fig 22.
View of el-Breikah and Tell el-Akkasheh.
the eyes of the stranger with its clean and wide
straight streets, big hay-cocks, and a well-built
I

H4 THE JAULAN.

mosque. It possesses a spring in the north with icy-
cold water, near which there is a pool, whose water
irrigates the beautifully laid-out gardens of the
Sheikh. The inhabitants are particularly hospitable,
and, thanks to the eminent educated Sheikh, the
chief of the collective Circassian villages, who
welcomes European action and ardently desires
the construction of a railway. The country of el-
Breikeh is stony, but fruitful with splendid pasture
land. In the south also the villages receive some
water from the Seil el-Breikeh and the Ain el-
Hajira. Its position, owing to the Hami Kursi and
Tell el-'Akkisheh in the west, is very protected and
healthy. As regards antiquities, in the Circassian
villages the settlers have built up and whitewashed,
present but few. It is, however, certain that they
have only settled on the old ruined places where
building stones lie ready to hand, and where
they hoped to find treasure. According to their
testimony, this last hope has not deceived them. So
much as one is able to see, viz., that the old place
was fortified by a strong wall in the east. In the
village itself one finds crosses and lintel ornamenta
tions from ancient times. One of these ornamenta
tions (Fig. 23) is worthy of notice, because on it is
represented the cross and the Jewish candlestick ; it
seems, indeed, as if the latter were added as a sup
plement to the cross.

THE J A ULAN.

"5

Breik'ah (C. 8). — A small crumbled ruin on the
western declivity of the Widy Masiud. A few

iiii(P«aw.

Fig. 23.
spendid old trees spring out of the ruins, under
which are some winter huts fallen into decay.
El-Buk'dti (D. 2). — A village of the Druses, con
sisting of 35 rather proof-built huts, with about 160
inhabitants in Merj el-Buk'iti. This cultivated
district of the Druses has certainly good soil, also
springs and some aqueducts ; but it is cold, and in
winter-time absolutely enveloped in snow. The
Merj is obviously the hollow of a large crater, whose
walls were formed by the Tellul el-Buk'iti, the Tell
esh-Sheikhah, the woody Tell el-Ahmar, and the
Tell Kriim et-Turkoman. An important trading
street, el-Buk'iti, corresponds to the Bokitha men
tioned, but not visited, by Burckhardt. (Ritter,
Erdkunst, p. 162.)
El-Butmiyeh. — Exhibits better masonry than el-
Eshsheh. We also find in the west, near the old
highway, the ruins of an old building called el-Khan,
which contained several apartments 10 feet wide,
divided into two parts by a single arch.
I 2

n6

THE JAULAN.

The arch presents the usual simple Haurin
moulding (Fig. 24).

1

1

Fig. 24.
Mangers, like those in el-Ahseniyeh, for the cattle,
and a large cistern in the court, testify to the purpose
served by the building, namely, an inn.
These remains date from the Arabic age ; only
the lintels of the entrances, with their Christian
symbols — namely, rectilinear crosses, vine-leaf orna
mentation, and weather-worn inscriptions — recall an
earlier Christian period (Figs. 25, 26). Very peculiar

1 IGOCH CSfe

Figs. 25', 26.
are the greatly weather-worn decorations of a door
lintel (Fig. 27), on which may still be distinguished

Fig. 27.
some Greek signs, besides a ten-branched figure.
recalling the Jewish candlestick.

THE JAULAN. 117

The village occupies a position only slightly
elevated above the surrounding country ; it abounds
in old building stones, and possesses a spring with a
large aqueduct in the western neighbourhood.
Dabura (B. 4). — A winter village of tolerable size,
close to the Widy Dabura, above the Lake of Huleh.
Near the wretched Bedawin huts a large modern corn
magazine stands. The old site is north of the village,
where a number of very large unhewn building stones
and foundation walls, like in Bedarus, are to be met
with. Here also they lie in confused heaps upon one
another. Fine oaks and terebinths grow out of the
once inhabited places. The remains, even at the
present day, proclaim a large, firm, and carefully built
settlement. The position is certainly a peculiarly
fine one, inasmuch as it commands the Lake of
Huleh and its lowlands. On some art-worked frag
ments I observed a small basaltic column, which
is inserted in the wall of one of the huts deserted in
summer. Near this spot the Wady Dabura has rocky
and steep slopes. It commences at the Tell Abu el-
Khanzir, and is called at first Widy Kefr Naphakh.
At el-'Ulleika the waters of several springs unite in
its bed, and, for the first time, makes below this place
a deep incision into the ground. Just before Dabura
the brisk stream falls over high basalt walls into a
rounded rock hollow ; it then flows along a narrow
gorge for half a mile and enters the charming plain of

n8 THE JAULAN.

the Lake of Huleh, to which it brings its water near the
southern part. The slopes of the Widy Dabura are
thickly grown with myrtle (Rlhin and D6m) ; in the
village itself as well as in the neighbourhood there are
a great number of liquorice trees (Umm es-Sus). This
ruin, so I have lately heard, is to be again colonized,
by the Jews who have settled on the slopes of the
Jaulin near Dabura.
Ed-Dajjajiyeh (C. f). — Six winter huts, built of
old stone, lying on the rear of a hill in Widy es-
Semakh. They are the property of the 'Arab er-
Rek£bit Ed-Dann (D. 7). — A stone circle and some small
un-hewn building stones scattered about. These, as
well as the adjacent lying Rujum el-Fir, belong to
the style of the ancient monuments which have been
described under el-Yikusa. A second ed-Dann (C.
5) is near er-Riwiyeh, in the north-west of Jaulin,
and marks one of the Dolmens of that place.
Dannikleh (C. 4). — See Khan Bandak.
Ed-Danuriyeh (D- 5). — According to some el-
Tanurlyeh, though the former is the official form.
It is a winter village with a few huts, mostly decayed,
and old building stones, at the foot of the Tell, which
is called Umm ed-Daninir; the name is derived
from Dinar the old Arabian coin.
Deir 'Aziz (C. 6.) — A small winter village, consist
ing of ten huts on the Wady Deir 'Aziz (Widy esh-

THE J A ULAN.

Shukeiyif). It belongs to the Arab ed-Diab, but
is not inhabited in summer.
Deir es-Ba'dh (D. 7). — A hill with scattered ruins
and folds in the valley of the Rukkid, below Kefr
el-Ma, with a good spring. The surrounding country
is romantically wild. Probably a little castle, for the
purpose of plunder, or an isolated cloister, but it is
impossible to recognise the design.
Deir er-Rdhib (C. 4). — A small ruined village, with
important ancient remains south of Nu'arin.
Deir es-Sards (C. 4). — A wretched winter village,
containing six huts, close to the Widy Dabura. It
belongs to the 'Arab en-Ne'arneh, and has few re
mains. Ed-Delhamiyeh (D. 4). — A ruin, with a few modern
and many old building stones, on the border of the
similar named widy, which commences between the
Tell Abu el-Khanzir and Tell Abu Yusef.
Ed-Delweh (D. 3). — A small Bedawin village, con
sists of five decayed stone huts in the terribly stony
country at the western base of the Tell Abu en-
Neda. Ruins extend over the hill of the village,
and also on the plain. One finds broad rectangular
foundations constructed of rude blocks of basalt,
destitute of any ornamentation. A good abundant
spring rises in the western end of the hill, which
irrigates excellent pasture land.
Ed-Dhahr (C. 7).— The ridge, which falls in terraces

THE JAULAN.

from Wely Jafer at Fik to Mikiall in Widy Fik. It
separates the latter from the Widy 'Abud.
Dhahr el-Ahmar (B. 7). — The narrow ridge con
necting the real Kulat el-Husn with the southern
mountain range. (See under Kulat el-Husn.)
Dhahret Umm 'Assdf (D. 3). — The most easterly
hill of the Tellul el-Mukhfy.
Dibbia (C. 4). — A group of fine trees and insig
nificant building remains of different ages, and some
sheep folds, south-west of er-Ruzaniyeh.
Ed-Dikkeh (B. 5). — This ruin, "which is not exten
sive, but rich in ornamentation, lies close to the
Jordan, and immediately north of the Batihah. Close

I

Fig. 28.
Ruin at ed-Dikkeh.
by the stream one sees a decayed mill with an aque
duct, whose construction is far better than that of the
mills of modern Jaulin.
The old place stood close by on a small elevation.

THE J A ULAN.

One's eye is first struck by a rectilinear building,
55 feet in length and 33 feet in breadth, whose sur
rounding walls project over the ruins for several feet
(Fig. 28). On the north-west corner an entrance
leads into the interior, which has two flights of steps
1 8 inches in height, running all round it. There are
traces of good ornamentation on the walls and also
on the columns. Between the outer wall and the
steps on the east side are two basalt columns stand
ing ; they are only 5 feet high. Whilst in the inner
room four more of these at irregular intervals tower
forth out of the ruin.
Thus the inner was supported by columns. The
surrounding walls were 3 feet thick ; the building

Fig. 29.
stones throughout have been carefully hewn. Near
the two upper column shafts a winged basaltic figure
(Fig. 29), cut in bas relief, lies, which, in opposition to

122

THE JAULAN.

the other ornamentation, lies upon a low artificial
step. The stone is 19 inches long, and 17 inches
broad. Outside the buildings are to be found gable
like decorations adorned with grapes (Fig. 30), or

Figs. 30—32.
with the Haurin moulding (Fig. 31), beautiful "egg
and pearl" moulding with the native tooth orna
mentation, especially ed-Deraah (Haurin), and
several twisted double columns (Fig. 33), also some

Fig 33-
with smooth shafts. The ruins present a Byzantine
character. Nevertheless, if one compare the dis
coveries in Western Palestine, in the districts of

THE JAULAN 123

Safed and Meiron, with those in ed-Dikkeh, a most
striking resemblance between the two appears.
After a searching examination they there appear
evidently as the remains of Jewish synagogues, and,
therefore, perhaps it would not be too audacious to
include ed-Dikkeh among the number of Jewish
buildings (see ' Across the Jordan,' p. 243).
Four winter huts of the Arab et-Tellawiyeh have
have been erected on the ruined places ; their inhabi
tants, however, did not present a very friendly face
to archaeological research.
Dolmens (B. 4, B. 5, C. 6, E. 6).. — These charac
teristic remains, of an age of antiquity of which it
is still uncertain, are found in large numbers in
stony Jaulin. Sometimes well, sometimes badly
preserved, in groups, they often cover thousands
of square yards of a district in which the basalt
occurs in slabs. The best preserved is the dolmen
field of Ain Dakkar in the upper Zawiyeh esh-
Shurkiyeh of Jaulan, which I have described in detail
in ' Across the Jordan,' p. 62.
It only remains to mention here those places where
they occur, also west of the Rukkid, and to represent
any especially remarkable shapes.
The dolmen fields of Ain Dakkar, called by the
natives Kubur Beni Israll, 'graves of the childen of
Israel,' extend in hundreds of well preserved speci
mens down to the Jisr er-Rukkid ; they go also west

124

THE JAULAN.

of this. Single dolmens are to be found north of
the bridge as far as Ain el-Mu'allakah, where the
extremely stony lava region is especially suitable for
the necessary material. The dolmens here (Fig. 34)

"iff- -^ ^"'"¦'& ^5' '^B ]^f^'

Hast

itS0-6,0Qm-

Fig. 34-
Dolmen at Jisr Rukkad.
a. Side View.
b. Plan of.

consist of a double terrace of slabs running from east
to west, and which are from 5 to 8 feet in length,
28 inches in height, and 8 to 12 inches in thickness.
The narrow sides of the tombs — for these they are

THE JAULAN. 125

without any doubt — are likewise fenced round with a
small slab. The rectangular chamber thus formed is
covered with a single strong basalt slab, measuring,
as a rule, 9 feet long by 6J feet broad, and 14 inches
thick. The west side of the chamber is broader
(4i feet) than the east side (3^ feet) ; it therefore gets
narrower from west to east. This circumstance
appears to me to show plainly that we have to do
with burial places here ; the upper part of the body
was laid in the broad western side, so that the face
should be turned to the rising sun according to the
old practice. The dolmens are elevated on raised
terraces from 2 to about 3 feet in height. The floor
of the hollowed chamber is covered with earth ; on
further digging, however, one strikes a rock slab
under which nothing was found but the remains of
bones and small pieces of charcoal.
In one single place only two rings, 2| inches in
diameter, came to light ; they were made of smooth
copper wire '09 of an inch thick, and had scarcely
any perceptible ornamentation.
This was the only find in the way of relics,
although several dolmen were thoroughly examined.
On the northern course of the Rukkid there are
very few dolmen ; but, on the other hand, they are
especially numerous on the western side of the Jaulin,
between the Tell esh-Shebin and er-Rawiyeh (see
¦Fig. 35)- These, however, are somewhat different

126

THE JAULAN.

from those fouiid at Jisr er-Rukkid ; over small
stones, a huge block, "j\ feet high and 6 feet thick,

West

East

Fig- 35-
Dolmen near er-Rawiyeh (ed-Dann).
a. View.
b. Plan.
formed the roof, for here the basalt is of a somewhat
different formation.
This cromlech is surrounded by a stone circle,

THE JAULAN. 127

whose diameter is 19! feet, and 27! inches in height
The western side is open. The chamber has a
length of 12 feet, by a breadth of 4| feet; is not
narrowed towards the east, but is facing that direc
tion. The blocks which form the outer stone circle
are rudely set ; the whole is less skilfully arranged
than the dolmen at the Rukkid.
Proceeding from here towards the south, one finds
on the via maris (not far from Nu'arin towards the
east) some isolated memorials of this description ;
and at Dabura (Fig. 36), near the Sheikh Khalil,
there is a rude circle of large stones, 6 feet high, with
a diameter of 33 feet. Over these lie two great
blocks, one against the other, having each a length of
85 feet, by a breadth of 5 feet, and a thickness of
3 feet. The major axis is likewise east and west.
The side stones have disappeared, probably broken
down under the immense weight. On the slope
below Dabura there are many more similar monu
ments. Another extensive Dolmen field stretches from
Kubbet el-Kara to the ruins of el-Kuneitrah. These,
however, are all fallen down, and it is very seldom
that the top slab is found on the solid substructure.
Their construction is exactly the same as those at
Jisr er-Rukkid, only the single constituent parts are
smaller. Finally, at Tell el-Muntir, and on its slopes
as far as the ruins KQsr Berdawll and the Widy esh-

128

THE J A ULAN.

Shebib, we find a large number of dolmen of the
same description as those at Jisr er-Rukkid. These

Fig. 36.
Dolmen at Dabura.
discoveries are sufficient to show that the Jaulin is
very rich in these old monumental constructions.
Who made them ? When did the giant arm which
piled up the enormous block of rockwork live? These
questions remain unanswered ; but it appears to me
certain that these monuments are in any case as old
as the original buildings of the Haurin. They must
have already come to light in the Roman period,

THE J A ULAN

because the Romans appear to have taken care of
the Dolmen fields. A comparison between the re
mains of Roman buildings and these old monuments,
which often lie close together, leaves no doubt of the
greater antiquity of the latter.
What further induced me to assign their origin to
the same time as that of the buildings of the Haurin,
the earliest of which are mostly subterranean and
roofed with basalt slab, is the striking resemblance
which the present Bedawin tombs bear to the dolmens.
They seem to be imitations of those burial places
erected by the predecessors of the modern Bedawin
in this country, only the tombs of the latter are much
S.W.

S.E.

Bedawin Tomb at Kulat el-Husn.
smaller and more insignificant A characteristic
example of such a Bedawin tomb is found on the
Dhahr el-Ahmar of the Kulat el-Husn (Fig. 37).
K

130 THE JAULAN.

Two upright standing stones, 23^ inches high, sup
port a small basaltic roofing slab ; the door thus
formed is set on the north side in front of the tomb,
which consists of rude layers of stones ; a circle of
slabs runs round the tomb from each side of the door.
On the south side of the stone circle, opposite the
door, a remarkably large stone is placed, so that these
two points immediately strike the eye of the spec
tator. The tomb itself is turned towards the south,
in accordance with the writing of the Koran that the
dead should face the Caaba in peace. This altera
tion of the position appears, therefore, to have been
incumbent upon them from religious motives, whilst
the general character of the dolmen has been re
tained. Perhaps from other finds we shall succeed in
obtaining a more exact insight into that period.
Dom. — A bramble-bush, with a pleasant tasting
sweet kind of hawthorn berry ; it is principally indi
genous to the Jordan Valley.
Ed-Dora (B. 5). — A ruin with eight winter huts of
the Arab el- Weslyeh, between the Widy el-Fakhureh
and the Widy es-Sanibir. In the west and south,
where the city was not so well protected by nature as
in the east, there are basalt terraces of steep incline,
and a triply thick wall of great unhewn blocks of
basalt. It leads south to a pile of ruins, out of which
stems of pillars and Doric capitals, and also a corner

THE JAULAN. 131

pillar, rises. This, I presume, was the old city gate.
From here the old city walls run in a sharp angle for
a little distance further towards the south-east. On
the city gate carefully hewn stones, 6 feet long, are
to be found ; there are also capitals lying about in
other places. In the village itself, which lies in
side the city wall, I noticed nothing of interest. A
withered ' Fakhireh ' stands in the south, which, in
spite of its leaflessness, is still always regarded as
sacred. At the foot of the terrace the extremely abundant
and fine spring, Ain ed-Ddra, issues, and further
north-west there is a second one. Both irrigate corn
and maize fields and then flow into the Wady ed-
Ddra, where they turn a mill. This widy, like few
others, is overgrown with luxurious oleanders and
other brushwood, and always contains water, which
does not dry up even in the scorching Batihah, at
the place called Widy es-Saffah, but runs down into
the lake.
Between ed-D6ra and Elmln well-preserved dol
mens, with one or two huge top slabs, are to be
found. Ed-Duer (B. 8). — A ruin close to where the Yar
muk enters the Ghdr. On the river side it is bounded
by a steep rock wall, a doubly strong wall, 3 feet thick,
built of unhewn stones joined with mortar, protect
ing it from the accessible part of the plain : this,
K 2

132 THE JAULAN.

however, is now fallen to the ground, and appears to
have contained only a few large rectangular build
ings. One discovers also traces of ruins on the
southern foot of the hill immediately on the Yarmuk.
In the middle of the plateau we find a Bedawin
stone circle, 16 feet in diameter, the east and west
being marked out by a large stone, having a depres
sion of 5 feet below the surface. There are also
other traces of Bedawin graves on the slopes of the
hills. Ed-Duer must certainly at one time have
served as a point of surveillance for the entrances into
the valley of the Yarmuk, and also as a defence of the
same. The remains appear to belong to the Arabic
time ; probably the place played a prominent rSle in
the bloody battle that took place between the
Byzantines and the Moslems, 635 A.D. In the mouth
of the Bedawin the place is bound up with the name
of the honoured Arabic hero, 'Antar; but I could
not learn any more about him than that he once
lived in Ed-Duer. They are fond of burying at this
place, and also at Abu Kebir el-Adeseh, a ruin with
winter huts on the southern slopes of the Widy es-
Semakh. Traces of an aqueduct, many large hewn
and unhewn old building stones, and some founda
tions, prove the antiquity of the place. The beautiful
spring irrigates some gardens and a group of palm
trees. The place was not without significance, but the
Bedawin conceal and cover up in all haste everything

THE J A ULAN. 133

ancient and strange that comes to light for fear of
interference on the part of the Government. It lies
close beneath the rock precipice of the high plateau,
in a wild, uncommonly stony, but richly pastured
district Duer el-Loz (D. 7). — A small pile of ruins in
Widy Slhin.
Duerbdn (B. 8). — A shapeless ruin of tolerable size
on the eastern coast of the Lake of Tiberias. It is
divided into two separate heaps, which, however, do
not reveal anything at all as to their antiquity and
purpose. The many building stones are small and
unhewn, and till recently were used to construct
sheep folds. In the time of Burckhardt and Seetzen,
and still later, Du£rbin was a "small village."
(Ritter, ' Erdkunst,' xv., Part I., 267.)
Duket Kefr 'Akib (C. 2). — Ruins on the coast of the
Sea of Galilee, with scattered building stones, but
few foundations.
El - Ebkuriyeh. — Several sheep-folds, constructed
from the ruins of old buildings. The place must
have once been important, as shown by the many
building stones entirely out of their original posi
tion. In the north the spring of the same name rises ;
its water flows to the spring Ain es-Esfera. , The
name is not very well known, but it was, however,
guaranteed by the Elders of the village in El-'Al.

134 THE JAULAN.

It was the same thing with El-Mejdeliyeh, whose posi
tion only came to my knov/ledge accidentally, and
appeared to have disappeared from the memory of
most persons. This ruin, also on the Widy
Mu'akkar, does not present anything of interest.
El-Ekseir (C. 2). — A stony district near Skek.
The neighbouring Merj el-Ekseir is a small, fertile
plain, with an inclined surface.
Elmin (B. 5). — A large winter village of the Arab
el-Weslyeh. The 40 huts are not so badly built as the
other winter villages, but join close to one another,
and form a sheltered, compact house-bulwark, against
the Gh6r wind. Excepting some old building stones,
there are no ruins to be seen. A Moslem saint's
grave, north of the village, with a tree, should also be
mentioned. At the base of the lava terrace, east of
Elmin, several abundant springs gush out, which
irrigate the dura plants of the beautiful terrace, but
making the ground in parts boggy, render it perilous
for the rider. An uncommonly rich growth of black
berries spreads over these springs, which constitute
the head-quarters of the Wesiyeh. Elmin lies
immediately over the Jordan, and affords a beautiful
view of it.
Enghib (B.7). — A small, miserable village on the east
coast of the Lake of Tiberias, west of Ktilat el-Husn,
on a low stretch of hills. It comprises 5 huts, with
20 inhabitants. Burckhardt ('Ritter,' 352) calls it

THE JAULAN. iSj

' Urn Yeb,' Seetzen ' En Gab,' the correct mode of
writing, however, according to the unanimous testi
mony of officials and Bedawin, is i  „jij out of which
comes the vulgar form ,  jJu\-
The Widy Fik, which flows past the foot of the
Enghib-hill, receives here for a short distance the
name of Widy Enghib.
Enjdsa (D. 4). — A small ruin, with large foundations
of unhewn blocks of basalt in the stony district below
Tell Yusef. The spring Ain Enjisa is feeble. The
ruins are so much decomposed that they are only
distinguished with difficulty from the fragments of
lava lying round.
Esbitteh (D. 5). — A small winter village, belonging
to the 'Arab en-Nu'em, or their branch tribe the
Sebirdjah, consisting of 4 huts near one of the
highest, most beautiful, and widely seen terebinths of
the country.
Beneath the insignificant ruins we notice a cross
v L (Fig. 38); on a door lintel. The place is
tfZO 1 beautifully situated and high, but has
Fig. 38. little water.
El-Eshsheh (E. 5). — A small Bedawin winter village
of 20 huts, at the foot of the Tell el-Firas. It is in
habited by about 80 persons from one year's end to
another ; but this place, like the adjoining el-Butmeh,
also a winter village of the same size belonging to the
Arab en-Nu'em, will soon be entirely deserted, because

136 THE JAULAN.

the Government require this district as pasturage for
the horses of the soldiers from Damascus.
El-Fdjer (B. 4). — A ruin, with decayed winter huts,
close to the precipitous Widy el-Fijer, which begins
near Bedarus, in a deep ravine, joins the Widy el-
Hamd' in the plain, and then runs towards the
lake of Huleh. In summer it conveys only a little
water. Es-Feiydt (B. 5). — The rugged rock gap through
which the Widy ed-Difleh flows, breaking through
the lava terrace at Suweihiyah. From here onwards
the widy is called Widy es-Feiyit, after this rock.
El-Ferj (D. 5). — A small Bedawin winter village,
with decaying huts and old building stones. The Tell
el-Ferj, against which the village rests, is supposed to
contain a large cavern, but it was not possible for me
to investigate this statement.
Fik (C. 7). — A large village of southern Jaulin,
which till recently belonged to the Kada Tubariya, but
as the natives felt themselves thereby injured and
in great part deserted it and settled in the environs,
it was added to El-Kuneitrah, for which it is adapted
by its situation. Fik, however, is scarcely more
flourishing since that time.
Of the 160 existing tolerably well-built stone
houses, only about 90 are inhabited, containing
scarcely 400 persons, the others are quickly going to
ruin (Fig. 39). The place is raised on both sides

THE J A ULAN.

137

of the large Widy Fik or Widy el-Kebir, which com
mences here to fall over basalt terraces, but soon,

%

m

'IS0Sm

m,

:-:-« t^fiig\mtmjmm

mi

Fig. 39-
The Village of Fik.

however, becomes broad and pleasing, and in the
bottom of the valley is covered with olive groves.
The view from Fik down into the valley embraces
first of all the deep-lying Kiilat el-Husn, and then
the lake, which spreads out deceptively as if it
were lying in the immediate neighbourhood. This
view is very beautiful, but not so open as from Kefr
Harib. Immediately below the first rock terraces
of the village, the abundant spring, Ain Fik, gushes
forth.

138 THE JA ULAN.

The environs of Fik are very fertile ; the stoneless
high plateau is excellently suited for corn cultiva
tion, but still great tracts lie completely fallow in the
immediate neighbourhood of the village. The in
habitants also carry on bee culture.
About 220 yards from the most southern house one
comes upon a hill covered with ruins and olive trees,
which is marked as a former site by its remains of old
columns and building stones.
At the present day the inhabitants of Fik bury
their dead there, and with the object of honoring 'a
Moslem tomb, called the place Jimat el-'Umeri ;
perhaps a mosque stood there at one time. In the
neighbourhood there is a second tomb, that of the
Sheikh Faiyid Abd el-Ghani : to each of these saints
is entrusted a heap of firewood.
An old graveyard, with a longish hill called El-
Mujjenneh, borders these places eastward. The
Kusr el-'Ulliyeh lies in the south of the village, on
the rising ground commanding the whole neighbour
hood (see Fig. 39). It is a Moslem building,
formerly destined for the reception of strangers, and,
judging from the enceinte walls, was also fortified.
At the time that Fik, according to the testimony of
the natives, formed the central point of the land, Kusr
was the seat of Government, the Serai.
Several Ionic basalt and granite capitals of pillars
and a quantity of basalt shafts of columns lie round

THE JAULAN.

139

about ; old door lintels, with totally defaced Cufic in
scriptions, are situated on the entrances.*
The village possesses an extraordinary number of
oil mills, for large olive trees are to be found round
this village, as well as on the slopes and in the widy.
Besides old cisterns, there is a circular well, 25 feet
deep, with an edge of hewn stones. In the courtyard
of the summer Menzul of Sheikh Diab, besides re
mains of columns, the ornaments of Figs. 40 and 41

Fig. 40.

Fig. 41-
Ornamentation at el-Fik.
are found, and in the wall there is a fragment of a
* I took an impression of this inscription, but unfortunately
it was destroyed by an involuntary bath in crossing the Jordan.
I hope to restore it later.

140

THE J A ULAN.

defaced Arabic inscription* in the year 741 of the
Hegira. In the neighbourhood of the Menzul the more
ancient inscription of Fig. 42 may be observed.

Fig. 42
Cufic Inscription.

9APCI
TAY PI
NE ET^i

Fig. 43-
Greek Inscription.

Further distant, the Greek inscription of Fig. 43
lies on the street. I found the inscription of Fig. 44

'A6ANAT

^|€TJJJ

Fig. 44-
Greek Inscription.
* I took an impression of this inscription, but unfortunately
it was destroyed by an involuntary bath in crossing the Jordan.
I hope to restore it later.

THE JAULAN.

141

over the door of a dwelling-house. Mention must be
made of the defaced
fe-:|j|P^ffl Hebrew signs (Fig-
45), with the seven-
branched candle
stick, found on a
small basalt column.
Another form of this
latter is presented on
a doorpost, which has
already been given
r 1 -A F'g' l5" , , M in the Z. D. V. P.,
Column with seven-branched candle- '
stick and Hebrew inscription. viii. p. 333. The
constantly repeated ornaments of Figs. 46 and 47
iiiiiiiffl

Fig 46. Ornamentation at Fik.

Fig. 47. Ornamentation at Fik.
are peculiar to Fik ; equally frequent are the signs,
to me enigmatic, represented on Fig. 48.

142

THE JAULAN.

Fig. 48.
Crosses (Fig, 49) are also found on the lintels, and

Fig. 49
the serpent ornamentations of Fig. 50 occur con-

Fig. 50.
stantly ; also the decoration shown by Fig. 51, which

Fig. 51.
Ornamentations at Fik.

THE J A ULAN. 143

is akin to Fig. 46. Although the figures rendered
only represent a small part of the things still extant,
they are quite enough to prove that Fik was once an
important as well as an ancient place. As places of
rest for the caravans plying from the Haurin to
western Palestine, they must once have contained a
large market, which, however, has entirely disap
peared. According to the statement of the intelligent
Sheikh Diab, the inhabitants of ancient Fik, in the
middle of this century, built the following villages : —
el-Yikusah, Dabbuseh, Jibin, el-'Al, Skufiyeh (the
youngest), Bir ej-Jekum, Kefr el-Mi, Jamleh Abdln,
and in part Khisfin. This statement was confirmed
in the villages referred to. Even to-day the dwellers
round ez-Zawiyah regard Fik as their birth-place, and
tell gladly of the size, wealth, and dominion of the
village. It appears to me to have suffered principally
through the attempt made by Ibrahim Pacha, of
Egypt (1832), to subdue the still somewhat inde
pendent Jaulin and Haurin ; and also from military
levying and taxation as the former western frontier
place of the Turkish possession. Therefore the in
habitants move onwards towards the interior of the
land, which is only to be reached with great difficulty.
Thus the Porte has completely succeeded in estab
lishing what the Egyptian warrior formerly tried to
do. The Arabic writers mention Fik ; they write it
tjjj and /Lxil, which is unusual in the present

144 THE JAULAN.

day, whilst the Bedawin and inhabitants themselves
ronounce it Fij, which points more to a CJ than
a C»: . One hears not unseldom also Fika.
Burckhardt calls it'Feik' ('Ritter,' 352), and found a
census of 200 families, consequently a much larger
one than to-day. He also gives other interesting
notes about the administration and maintenance
of the place. Of the great Kastel, mentioned by
Eusebius and Hieronymus (' Ritter,' 353), there
is nothing more to be seen, unless the Kusr el-
'Ulliyeh or the Jim'at el-Umeri fills its place. I
should certainly agree with Ritter and others
that Fik is the ancient Aphek of the Bible.
(1 Kings xx. 26).
Burckhardt (according to Ritter) considered the
neighbourhood of Fik was the province of Hippene
(Hippos) ; this assumption would be correct, because,
according to all the old narratives, Hippene lay
opposite to Tiberias, either on or near the like.
Josephus gives its distance from Tiberias as 30
stadium, 60 from Gadara, and 120 from Scythopolis.
If this statement is correct — which, however, appears
doubtful on comparison with other measures in Jose
phus, for example, in the description of Tabor (Jewish
Wars, iv. 1-8), Hippos, could only, supposing Gadara
corresponds to the present Umm Keis, be identical
with Semakh or es-Samra. If, however, the state
ment which I find in Merrill's ' East of the Jordan '

THE JAULAN. 145

is worthy of consideration, viz., that the Jerusalem
Talmud and other Jewish writings pronounce Susitha
identical with Hippos ; then the extensive although
shapeless ruin Susiyeh, which I discovered between
Kiilat el-Husn and Fik, in a plain, elevated half-way
between both, must be regarded as the site of the old
Hippos. I also acquired from the inhabitants of
Kefr Hirib and el-'Al, a rare copper Hippos coin,
which they alleged was found beneath the building
rubbish of this place.
But this alone cannot give sufficient confirmation to
the supposition that the places, Susiyeh and Fik,
situated between the two spots that have come to
light, belonged to the province of Hippene.
Leaving the village, and turning westwards to
wards the narrow ridge of the Jebel Zafarin, we
discover on its northern margin, on the Widy Fik,
the foundation stones of an ancient and most solidly
constructed rampart, which extends from the village
to the precipice before Susiyeh ; it probably be
longs to that period in which Aphek was called a
' CastelL' If one descends across this wall and down the first
basalt terrace of the Widy Fik, traces of a walled
aqueduct may be seen which, in spite of the fact that
it is already entirely in pieces and decayed, may be
followed as far as the ruin Susiyeh, and somewhat
further backward. L

146 THE J A ULAN.

The inhabitants of Fik assert that in winter time,
when the ground is unploughed, it can be traced from
Susiyeh downwards as far as the Dhahr el-Ahmir of
the Kiilat el-Husn ; and upwards through the upper
part of the Widy Fik to the Widy Abud, the Jebel
Akta Sharideh, the Bir ej-Jelcum, still further all
round the Zawiyeh ej-Jekum to el-Awinish, and on
the southern margin of the Widy es-Semakh to et-
Tu'enni, el-'Adeseh, as far as the Widy ed-Difleh,
where St commences. I myself could not always
follow the traces of this aqueduct with certainty ; but
Kulat el-Husn being an isolated mountain and de
ficient in spring water, it is very probable that this
fort was supplied with water from the abundant
Widy es-Semakh by means of this canal. In any
case, this canal was then as now subterranean, and
concealed from the eye of the enemy.
El-Fizdra (D. 4). — A winter village, with about
12 inhabited huts at the foot of the small Tell el-
Fizira. It has some important remains of anti
quity. Fresh el-LSz (B. 3). — A craggy widy, south of er-
Rawlyeh, flowing into the Huleh marshes.
Furun (C. 3). — A ruin with some crumbled Bedawin
huts, in an unusually stony region at the western base
of the Tell el-Haram. There are several scattered old
building stones.
Ghadir el-Bustan (E. 5). — A ruin on the Rukkid.

THE JA ULAN. i47

The old weather-beaten building stones lie between
green vegetation, where some springs rise on the river
bed, and in winter form a little cataract on the Ruk
kid. A little further up on the Nahr er-Rukkid, the
exactly similar ruin, Ghadir ej-Jamus (E. 5), lies ; here
also the remains are insignificant.
Ghadir en-Nuhds (C. 4). — A shapeless ruin on the
similarly-named widy, which builds a waterfall here
in winter. It conveys a great deal of rubble, but
sinks only about 33 feet beneath the rocky lava
plateau. El-Ghadiriyeh (C. 4). — A small winter village, be
longing to the Turkomans. It consists of twelve stone
huts, of which six at most are inhabited, containing
altogether thirty inhabitants. A good spring rushes
along under splendid oak trees, between which some
old masonry is to be found. The Turkomans are
fond of encamping here. These places just men
tioned mark the commencement of the Widy el-
Ghadiriyeh, which runs into the Wady el-Fakhureh.
El-Ghor (A. 8). — Only a small part of the Jordan
depression concerns us, viz., that which bounds the
Lake of Tiberias in the south and lies 700 feet below
the level of the Mediterranean Sea.
After its outlet from the Lake the Valley of the
Jordan bears, besides the general name of esh-
Sheriat (a watering-place), the particular name Widy
Seisabin, which it retains in the neighbouring district
L 2

Edw^WSlerTrfft/.

THE J A ULAN. 149

slopes, es-Shaaf, fall in terraces, and are cultivated by
the Circassians. A narrow ridge, formerly a crater
wall, runs from the peak to the south-east, and ends
as a cultivated and very fertile plateau, called Ris
Shaaf. The mountain can be ascended on every side
without difficulty ; it is overgrown by luxuriant oak
thicket, the remains of an earlier great forest. Ac
cording to the Bedawin, the summit owes its
designation, Hami Kursu, " Protector of the Crown,"
to the impenetrable oak growth which the Circassians
have for the most part felled.*
In the east and west, as also in the north, rounded
hills lie round the chief mountain.
El-Hammeh (B.C. 8). — The collective name for
the hot springs on the Yarmuk, which rise in the
valley of this latter in a district surrounded by it,
towards the southern part of its semi-circular course,
and bounded on the north by steep rock-walls.
It is under the Kada of the Ajlun, and is valued
by the Bedawin as an asylum which shelters them
from the avenger of blood. If one rides from
Tiberias over the rocky road to el-Hammeh, one
perceives the light-blue pool and the smoking
* Compare Wetzstein. 'Das Batanaische Giebelgebirge,'
Leipsig, i884,p. 14; alsoin 'Zeitschrifccf. RirchlWissensch.,' 1884,
113. W. writes Hami-Kursuh, and explains it <\VHp JTDTn
" he who protects bread," i.e., who admits no guest. " Hami-
Kursu '' receives its name from its impenetrable wood.

150 THE JAULAN.

springs from some distance. As soon as one
enters the valley one is surrounded by currents of
air smelling strongly of sulphur. The road leads
through the R6d el-Bineh, a waterless widy, down
to the Birket ej-Jarab. These hot springs bubble
forth in a natural basin, have a temperature of I04"5°
Fahr., and together have the important outflow of
more than 220 gallons a second. This is soon
collected into a canal, turns a most primitively-con
structed flour mill, and then flows into the Yarmuk.
Another arm, which carries away the surplus, feeds
a large basin close to the river ; it is 295 feet long,
49 broad, and 8 feet deep ; and surrounded by thick
tree and cane growths, invites one to a pleasant bath.
Then, also, the high temperature of the water has,
by this time, considerably cooled. Quite close to
the Birket ej-Jarab, scarcely 6\ feet distant from it, a
cold spring, JJ° Fahr., rises ; it is called Ain Bums
and flows into the basin filled with hot water — cer
tainly as peculiar a phenomenon as the stream of hot
mineral waters which drives the mill.
The road leads further south, past some palm trees
and remains of ruins, to the principal spring, called
Hammet Selim, or Birket el-Habel, or Hammet esh-
Sheikh. It lies 577 feet below the level of the Mediterranean
Sea, has a temperature of 1200 Fahr., and an outflow
of 385 gallons a second. At one time a Roman bath

THE JAULAN. 151

was extended across this spring, as is quite evident
from the architectural remains of a large and a small
building. The spring bubbles forth in a narrow
enclosed basin, deposits, like all the others, a whitish-
yellow sulphurous precipitate, which in certain places
has hardened into rock-like substances, and conveys
its water through several natural-formed basins, which
collect and gradually cool it, to the river. Near this
spring rises a Moslem burial-place, Wely Selim,
to honour whose saints convalescents and those
seeking help plant on the Roman buildings coloured
cloths tied to sticks. There also is the principal
scene of action of the bathers. The Bedawin, whose
skin is already hardened to leather by the tropical
sun of the Gh6r, let themselves down into the
smoking, bubbling flood with perfect contentment ;
on the other hand, the Arab from the town ventures
in first cautiously with the foot or hand, whilst the
European prefers to seek out the cooler basin. A
little east of the Hammet Selim lies a small un
covered pool, the Birket or Hammet er-Rih, which
has a temperature of only 93°"2, whilst it makes a
similar flow to that of the Hammet Selim, with whose
water it soon unites.
Besides these three principal springs, with their
high temperature, nature has also presented this
place with good drinking water, furnished by the
spring Ain es-Sakhneh or 'Ain Sa'id el-Fir. This

152 THE JAULAN.

begins in the north-east corner of the plain as a clear
abundant cold stream, with a flow of 341 gallons a
second. Fig trees, oleanders, and raspberries grow in
confused masses about the place close below the rock
walls which bound the el-Hammeh on the north.
The stream moves southward through a thicket of
swamp plants, turns a mill, and empties itself into
the river close to the Birket er-Rih. A small sidearm
is diverted from the spring westward for irrigating
and filling the troughs for the cattle. The tempera
ture of this spring is about the same as that of the
Ain Bulus, 77° Fahr. The whole district of el-
Hammeh is covered with luxuriant oleanders and
Dom underwood , it abounds in water, and is conse
quently somewhat unhealthy, the eastern part being
even swampy, and overgrown with cane jungles.
These springs rise on a flat land of about 1,600 yards
in length, and on an average 550 yards in breadth;
consequently, on a district of about 180 acres it was
sufficiently large to allow of the erection of a bath
arrangement with all conveniences, as well as beauti
fully laid-out gardens. The ground is at present the
property of a citizen of 'Akka, but the springs belong
to the Government.
The western part of the district of el-Hammeh is
rich in ruins. Near the Birket ej-Jarab an extended
hill rises, on which the remains of a wall are to be
found. Probably a temple or a castle stood here.

THE J A ULAN.

153

Between this hill and the remains of the Roman bath
there is a strong vaulted building ; the floor is thickly

Fig. 52. — Column at el-Hammeh.
«-  487 —  --»

Mfl-

Fig- 53- — Capital at el-Hammeh.
studded with fragments of columns, capitals, bases,
and shafts, and hewn and unhewn building stones. But

154

THE J A ULAN.

it is impossible to distinguish and draw up any plan
of this confused mass. The numerous annual bathing
visitors build huts out of the ruins, or drag the frag
ments from their places, or dig under the ruins for
treasure ; the disorder is consequently always in
creasing. The upper end of a column and Ionic
capital belonging to these ruins are represented by
Figs. 52 and 53 ; they are well preserved. The ruins
of a Roman theatre (Fig. 54) lie north of Birketer-Rih.

Fig. 54-
Roman Theatre.
The twelve stone tiers of seats (see Plan, A) ascend
in an amphitheatre to a height of 19 feet, without a
single corridor traversing them. The seats (Fig. 5 5) are
18 inches high and 30J inches broad, and are conse
quently very comfortable. The uppermost ledge is
formed by a moulding divided into several flat and
narrow friezes (Fig. 56). The diameter of the semi-

THE J A ULAN.

155

circular tiers of seats is only 85! feet; the stage,

Fig. 55-
Section of Seat.

- 100  *~-Z50-/a*i
Fig. 56.
Section of Moulding.
somewhat raised by means of the moulding (Figs. 57
and 58), has an equal length and breadth of 33 feet ;
T-Kf-fOCHSSf-- 281)  -*

Fig. 57- Fig. 58.
Sections of Mouldings.
walls 3 feet 3 inches thick, built double on the north and
south sides, surround the whole. Some dressing and

156 THE JAULAN.

wardrobe rooms are still attached to the stage place*
but they are almost all levelled to the ground.
Although the theatre is so well preserved that a plan
can be drawn up, the influence of earthquakes is un
mistakable, especially on the horizontally displaced
rows of seats. On the convex side of the theatre, in
the west, a hill, 26 feet high, rises, whose uppermost
small plateau spurs show an enclosure wall. The
rock walls, which border the district of el-Hammeh in
the north are from 80 to 90 feet high, and fall perpen
dicularly. A beautiful plain, called es-Sateh, spreads
across down to the foot of the mountain. In these
steep walls, which, according to Dr. Noetling, belong
to a lava stream broken through by the Yarmuk,
several caves open below immediately on the plain of
el-Hammeh ; they are not artificial, but are formed
naturally, and are all of insignificant size.
Excavations undertaken there proved that the
upper layer of the ground consisted chiefly of the
dung of the animals that take shelter in these caves,
and that 35 inches beneath the surface a striking
number of remains of bones — of animals first, then also
of men — came to light ; they were found to be very
much decayed. Immediately over the layer contain
ing these remains of bones a fine rubbish, with par
ticles of charcoal, lies. It appears, therefore, that
these caves once served — in grey antiquity, indeed —
as habitations for human creatures.

THE J A ULAN.

157

The caves on the western end of the district of el-
Hammeh are of a different kind. Here the lava
stream rests on a strong foundation of soft limestone.
To the north, above the sharp bend of the river
towards the west, distinct traces of human action —
namely, masonry — may be observed on the steep
caverns, 65 feet high, with walls of lime (Fig 59). As

Fig- 59-
Caves at el-Hammeh.
they are situated from 35 to 38 feet above the rubbish
slope of the mountain, they were inaccessible to us.
They are already very much defaced. The inner
chamber appears to have a tolerable extent. Pro-

158 THE JAULAN.

bably at one time anchorites occupied them, to which
the approach may at that time have been more con
venient than at present. To-day an examination is
only possible if, with the help of a rope ladder, one
glides down the channel of the river R6d el-Baneh,
running close by the caves. Other square apertures
are to be seen on the left coast of the river down
stream, which, however, are likewise inaccessible
without a rope ladder.
El-Hammeh corresponds with the bath Amatha, or
the hot springs of Gadara, principally frequented in
the time of the Romans. From the hot plain of the
springs the bathers have betaken themselves in
crowds to the high lying Gadara, or Umm Keis,
scarcely half-an-hour's distance, where they can rejoice
in the cool air and lovely view. But even to-day,
hundreds of natives from all parts of the land hasten
to el-Hammeh. Barren Arabian women seek aid in
the warm flood, and numerous examples are related
of the desired effect of the bath. It is for this reason
that one sees especially young women, accompanied
by their husbands or relatives ; they erect huts of
willows and straw, or brushwood ; friendly families
live close together, whilst solitary strangers seek to
protect themselves from the rays of the sun behind
the ruins. During the day most of them rest, but as
soon as it begins to get dark an animation and
deafening noise sets in. To the sound of trumpet

THE JAULAN. 159

and fife, groups of women, watched by their husbands,
draw nigh to the baths and divert themselves in the
lukewarm pools. They return with the same noise ;
and then feasting, laughing, dancing, story-telling
goes on in the tent till the early morning, when
another bath is taken, and then they retire to rest.
And so the visitors to the baths go on for a fortnight
or three weeks, whilst the bathing time lasts altogether
from April to July. New comers salute those who are
there, and are welcomed by them with musket-shots,
through which it not unseldom happens that accidents
occur, for the sojourners, who are often half mad with
excitement, as a rule, fire their muskets close over the
heads of those present, and thus frequently wound
one or another, as I myself have had opportunities of
observing. If the one who is struck belongs to the
resident Bedawin, threats are uttered, and stormy
events seem likely to come to the fore. Only by a
heavy offering of gold from the guilty party to the
offended can a bloodless deed be expiated. If, how
ever, blood has been shed the originators hurry off, for
the scene of their bloody deed is no longer a sojourn
for them. Although every year 100 to 200 tents arrive
in el-Hammeh, no conveniences are provided ; they
leave everything to mother nature. It would, how
ever, without any doubt, be not only remunerative
but also a particularly wholesome undertaking, if
the sojourn at these springs were made in a more

160 THE JAULAN.

habitable, pleasant, and comfortable manner. The
contents of the springs has been, according to testi
mony, likened to the Carlsbad water, and already in
antiquity, as has been observed by Ritter, 1053,
compared with that of Baiae.
Harf (B. 7). — A fair number of scattered old build
ing stones on the Mukatt ej-Jamusiyeh, above Susiyeh.
Hdwa (B. 5). — A small ruin with two corn maga
zines, better built of stone, belonging to the Bedawin,
in the woody district, on the widy of the same name,
which upwards is called Widy ed-D6ra, and lower
down Widy Jeriba and Widy es-Saffah.
El-Hdwiydn (B. 8). — A narrow rock gate near ed-
Duer, consisting of two angles of the rock lying oppo
site each other, which embank into the Yarmuk, the
east end of the Alili ed-Du£r (see p. 131).
Hetal (D. 7). — A village on the slopes of a widy of
the same name, which is somewhat better constructed
than the neighbouring Jibin, and contains forty stone
and clay huts, with about 100 inhabitants. As regards
ancient remains, only fragments of columns and hewn
stones are to be found. The country and the widy
are abundantly supplied with water. East of the
village on the road is the Bir et-Truh, with a pool and
oleander bushes. A very primitive tomb has been
raised to the wood saint, Sheikh Muhammed ; its
Mujjenneh protects a quantity of fuel.
El-Hutiyeh (C. 7). — Four Bedawin winter huts

THE J A ULAN.

above the Widy es-Semakh to the south. There is
good pasture ground, and some old building stones.
Inklteli (D. 5). — According to a few trustworthy
Bedawin, also called Umm Kheli, is a winter village,
consisting of nine huts on the margin of a widy of
the same name, below el-Amudiyeh. The remains
of ruins are insignificant.
famleh (E. 7). — A village of the ez-Ziwiyeh esh-
Shurkiyeh, comprising thirty-six dwellings, built of
stone and earth, and 160 inhabitants. The village is
poor, and has only a little arable land, because the
country is stony. But it possesses a few fig-gardens,
and some vegetable cultivation. A sufficient quantity
of water is yielded by the spring Ain Hamita, in the
south of the village, and by another one in the north.
Old remains are scarce, and it is only in the south
that we come upon large foundations, with immense
blocks of basalt, apparently primeval, as, indeed,
everything in Jamleh appears. The view over the
ravine of the upper Rukkid is very beautiful.
febdb en Nana (C. 3). — A small volcanic hill, over
grown with underwood, east of Skek.
febdta el-Khashab (D. 2). — A large Druse village of
Kada Widy el-'Ajam.
febel'Ain en-Nimr (B. 8). — A part of the edge of
the plateau south of Kefr Hirib.
febel 'Ain es-Sakhneh (B. 7). — A low isolated hill on
the plain, lying on the east coast of the Lake of Tiberias.
M

162 THE J A ULAN.

febel Aktd Sharideh (C. 7).— The slopes of the
plateau, south of Skufiyeh.
Jebel f ild (C. 4). — A small pointed hill with a few
building remains, near Nuirin.
Jebel Kurein ferddeh (B. 7). — The summit of this
slope, overlooking the Lake of Tiberias, is 450 feet
above the Mediterranean Sea, and 1,132 feet above the
level of the Lake, with deeply furrowed valleys. It
consists for the most part of limestone (see Fig. 20).
febel Mokddlah (B.7). — A semicircular hill, overlook
ing the Lake of Tiberias, much broken up by eruptive-
rent valleys, probably part of a gliding hill. The
warm springs, el-Hammeh (see p. 149), spring from
its base on the shore.
Jebel Seil el-Aswad (B. 7). — A low rounded hill at
the foot of the Kiilat el-Husn.
febel esh-Shdrardt (B. 8). — The south-western slope
of the Jaulin, between el-Kuweiyir and Khan el-
'Akabeh. febel Zdfardn (C. 7). — The narrow mountain ridge
between Widy Fik and Widy Masaud. On its
northern rim there are traces of an old fort wall,
extending as far as Fik.
Ej-fedeiyeh (C. 6). — A ruin, with some old build
ing stones, close to the Widy ed-Difleh.
Ej-felibine (B. 4), written by some el-Klebine. Al
though the latter form sounds more familiar, I must,
after inquiries, recommend the first as being more

THE JAULAN.

163

correct. The place is nearly forgotten, and a desert
ruin on the Widy Dabura, near the Lake of Huleh.
It has no visible remains of importance, but has the
appearance of great antiquity.
Jeraba (B. 5). — A Bedawin winter village, with insig
nificant ruins, in the woody country north of the
Batihah. The name recalls the Gabara of Josephus*
Jibing. 7). — A village on the fall of the Widy Hetal,
which comprises thirty-eight huts of basalt and earth,
with ninety-five inhabitants, or twenty-one families,
according to the testimony of the Sheikh. West of
the village we find the paltry sepulchre of the wood
saint, Neby Yunis, with a small court. North of the
miserable village lie the ruins of Jimat el-'Umeri, a
mosque from the time of 'Umeri, at which time the
village must have arisen. Besides an ordinary base
in the Hiurin style (Fig. 60). there are remains of

70cm : ^h> ^t~ ™cm. -zr»
Fig. 60.
Bases of Columns at Jibin.
* The Gabara of Josephus (Jewish Wars III. vii. 1. ; Vita 10,
25,45, 47) lay 40 stadia away from Jotapata ; it cannot therefore
be looked for east of the Jordan. Comp. Reland, ' Palastina,'
Gue"rin, Galilee, 771 ; H. Hildersheim, ' Beitrage zur Geographie
Palastina's' (1886), 15, 43.
M2

1 64 THE JAULAN

Koran inscriptions. The outer court of the mosque
is overlaid with basalt slabs. The door lintel on the
Menzul of the Sheikh bears likewise a part of the Koran
inscription removed here from the mosque ; it is quite
defaced, and only the words  f\  aDl _ _ „ S
are recognisable. Besides olive-presses and quarried
stones, there lie the beautiful Attic base of a corner
pillar, and a portion of a less well executed Doric
capital, with beading on the base. In the village I
found an Ionian capital (Fig. 61) and some basaltic

Fig. 61.
Ionic Capital.
shafts of columns, 5 feet long and 14 inches in dia
meter. The building stones throughout are basalt
The village has a superabundance of good drinking
water. The Rin Jibin (see under Ain el-Melekeh) is
built over the spring, and flows into a sarcophagus.
In the west of the village I discovered several sub
terranean remains, which are found in such numbers
in the Haurin (Fig. 62). These measured only
8, feet square and 6£ feet high. They are walled up,
and have a good dressing of f to 1 inch in thickness
at the bottom. The covering, which is on a level with

THE J A ULAN.

165

the upper surface of the earth, consists of basalt slabs ;
the layer of wood bushes and clay which lie over it is

Fig. 62.
Underground Chamber.
doubtless a later addition. Whilst they are at present
used as corn magazines, they probably served for
merly as cisterns, hardly as dwelling-rooms, as a
staircase and the necessary openings are wanting.
The inhabitants certainly assured me that there were
some such with a small flight of steps in the north ;
but these, however, are buried under ground.
fisr er-Rukkdd (E. 6). — Two stone bridges lead
across the Rukkid ; an upper one near Sueiseh, which
is therefore called Jisr Sueiseh ; and a lower one, east
of Khisfin, called Jisr er-Rukkid. The first is small,
and consists of eight large unequal pointed arches, of

1 66

THE JAULAN.

which the three centre measure about 16 feet, the
three on the right side about 1 5 feet, and the two on

Fig. 63.
Jisr er-Rukkid.
the left coast side 15^ feet and 10 feet. The height
between the vertex of the arches and the water sur
face amounts to about 12^ feet in summer. The
bridge is 15 feet broad, and 250 feet long, from one
extremity to the other. The arches are united by
piers 8 feet thick, which have a cuneiform pier-head
up the stream, in order to keep back the rush of
boulders. The pier spaces on both coasts are very
broad. Unfortunately, the bridge is in decay ; and
although the quarried basalt stone is built up with
good white mortar, both ends have already fallen in,
so that the approach by a beast of burden is im
possible. In winter time only, when the stream has
swollen to an enormous size, they use the footpath,
whilst the caravans have to wait for better weather.

THE J A ULAN. 167

The carriage road of the bridge is entirely horizon
tally paved with wide basalt slabs. This paving,
several miles, is continued on both sides in a Roman
road, -still well preserved in part, and o,\ feet broad.
I conjecture, therefore, that the bridge is also of Roman
origin, especially as its design differs from that of
the Arabian time, inasmuch as the carriage road
does not incline from the centre towards each side,
but has a horizontal surface.
foramdyeh (C. 6). — A ruin near the border of the
widy of the same name. Till recently it was a winter
village of the Arab ed-Diib ; but the huts have
fallen to pieces, and it is now deserted. The ruin is
tolerably extensive ; the building stones are mostly
unhewn and long. One comes upon the remains of
subterranean buildings, small rooms with basaltic
roofs, like in Jibin, which have been transformed into
graves by the Bedawin, and closed up with stone
slabs. South of the ruin we find some better modern
masonry in a large rectangular room. In the Arabic
age, Joramiyeh was still a village of moderate size.
At the bottom of the widy, below the ruin, some
palms flourish ; also, trees grow along the whole
length of the widy. Widy Joramiyeh commences
at the western foot of the Tell ell-Firas, near the
Ayun el-Fahm. At first, the brook sinks only.
suddenly below the surface, then at Tell Bizuk it
suddenly plunges over high rock walls, and forms a

1 68 THE JAULAN.

narrow ravine, which widens below the ruins of
el-Kuneitrah ; it is marked throughout by some green
growth. The Widy Tell Bizuk runs in from the
north (see p. 1 29), being only separated from the chief
valley during the last stretch of its course by a
narrow ridge. Both convey their water to the
Batihah, where it soon gets absorbed. The ravine
grows more pleasant, and in the plain itself vanishes
in a flat indent of the ground, marking out the line
of the stream of water, which in winter is very large.
Jort el-Akrd (B. 5). — Close to the east, near a bare
part of an otherwise woody country, with a single
withered tree and some traces of masonry.
Jort el-Hdkim (D. 4).— A piece of lowland, with a
spring which in winter turns a mill. It is at the foot
of Dhahret Jort el-Hikim, the rocky eruptive ridge
on the eastern foot of the Tell Abu Yusef, which is
obviously either a lateral eruption of this crater or else
an old crater wall.
fort el-Hdwa (D. 3). — The country between el-
Kuneitrah and el-Mansurah. Its name, ' Lowland of
the Wind,' is especially justified in winter, when
through the gap between the sheltering Tell Abu
en-Nedi and the crater west of el-Mansurah, a cutting
north-west wind sweeps over the plain, causing a
heavy snowfall. Altogether, this is the most windy
tract of country in northern Jaulin. On the other
hand, Jort el-Hiwa is a small strip of lowland, be-

THE JAULAN. 169

tween a strata of lava, near the Widy el-Ghafibeh,
above the western slopes of Jaulin.
Ej-Jueizeh (D. 4). — A large Circassian village of
seventy houses, with sixty families, and 300 inhabitants
collectively. Of antique remains little are to be seen.
Well kept practicable roads lead to the thriving vil
lage, which lies in the best pasture country (see
Ain el-Belat for a second ej-Juelzeh, C. 3).
Ej-Jummeizeh (B. 6). — A sycamore (mulberry-tree)
and a Moslem tomb of the Sheikh Rajil in the
eastern Batihah.
The tree is of great age and splendid growth.
Some scattered ruins are to be found in the neigh
bourhood. El-Kahtudneh (B. 8). — A district of the Gh6r imme
diately south of the lake between the Jordan and
Tellul es-S'alib.
Kanef (C. 6). — A Bedawin winter village east of
the Batihah, and a magazine of Muhammed S'iid
Pasha of Damascus, occupied by ten to fifteen inhabi
tants, and is conspicuous from its high position. There
are some old building stones.
Karahta (C. 3). — A Bedawin winter village, whose
huts are permanently inhabited by from twenty to
thirty persons belonging to the Arab el-Hawij.
There are some tolerably old building stones. In the
south-west there is the Birket Karahta, a dirty pond.
El-Kaseibeh (C. 6). — A Bedawin winter village of

i7o THE JAULAN.

four huts, with old building stones. It is here that the
Widy el-Kaseibeh commences, which further down
is called Widy Deir Aziz, and Widy esh Shukeiyif.
Kefr Hdrib (B. 7). — A village consisting of 70
stone and mud huts with 40 families, or about 200
persons. The inhabitants are affable and hospitable,
not like the people of Fik, who are peevish. They
have a Khan in the village, the resting-place of the
caravans, instead of in Fik. The western side of the
village, like Fik, crowns the basalt precipice of the
lava plateau in a semicircle, and, as has been
already mentioned, affords a matchless view across
the country and Lake of Tiberias. Several good
and abundant springs break out beneath the first
precipice ; they are set in old masonry. The village
is not yet old, but is, nevertheless, in a flourishing
condition, carrying on an excellent bee industry, and
cultivating the stoneless and extraordinarily fruitful
plateau stretching south down to the Yarmuk. It is,
however, subject to quit rents from a much-esteemed
Damascene. In the south the simple monument of
Sheikh Muhammed el-'Ajami stands, surrounded by
high wood piles and farm implements, and over
shadowed by clusters of magnificent trees. In the
village itself there are few antiquities, although the
old building stones point to large buildings. On the
Mahal 1 ej-Jima'a the smooth ground and enclosure
walls of a mosque, with a defaced Arabic inscription,

THE J A ULAN

171

are to be seen ; of this latter I was unable to dis
tinguish anything but Jj-rII .-***
On a door lintel we came across this not infrequent
ornament of Fig. 64, and in the yard of a house the
Greek inscription of Fig. 65.

Z,00
Fig. 64.
Ornamented Lintel.

Fig. 65.
Greek Inscription.
The old site south of the present village is marked
out by a number of scattered stones, mostly unhewn,
with foundations of the Arabic age. Here and again
one discovers quadrangular subterranean rooms, very
carefully built of hewn stones without mortar ; they
have a base area of 6f by 5 feet, and a depth of
5 feet, and were probably formerly sepulchres ; they
are now turned into grain chambers. One of the
basalt coverings of these appears to me to have been

172

THE J A ULAN.

adopted later than the remains lying round. After
the old site is passed, we reach broad traces of a wall
which can be followed along the western margin of
thc plateau as far as the Sultaneh, stretching down to
Khan el-'Akabeh. Probably they are the remains of
a Roman road, which was bounded by a wall.
Kefr el-Ma (D. 7). — A large flourishing village on
the Rukkid with 80 buildings, mostly spacious, of
stone. According to the testimony of the Sheikh

Fig. 66.
Plan of the Sheikh's house in Kefr el-Ma..
a Family dwelling-place.
b Open court.
c Arch.
d Winter menzul.
e Winter stable.
f Summer menzul.
g Divan.
h Summer yard for the horses.
i Principal door.
k Street.

THE JAULAN. i 73
Muhammed el-Ahsen, who at the present time repre
sents the interests of the ez-Zawiyeh el-Ghurbiyeh
in the Medjlis of el-Kuneitrah, and who is conse
quently a highly esteemed personage, it is inhabited
by 800 persons. The Sheikh's house in the westerly
part of the village is roomy and well-built. The
Menzul, which he built, is a two-winged building,
with a large court and open hall adjoining. In the
latter prayers are said during the summer (Fig. 66).
The surroundings are fertile ; the Rukkid slopes rich
in water. About 82 feet below the village, towards
the Rukkid, the abundant spring, Ain Kefr el-Ma,
gushes from a fissure in the rock. A rounded arch
(Fig. 67) is built over it, above which enormous

Fig. 67.
'Ain Kefr el- Mi.
basalt rocks tower. Its water falls into a stone
setting, and is conveyed out of it through an old

174 THE JAULAN.

dyke-channel of black clay to a choked-up ruin lying
near el-Hammeh (bath to the right in. Fig. 67).
Here it irrigates some vegetable gardens.
The spring water is remarkably clear and whole
some. In the village itself, the inhabitants of which
practise bee cultivation, there are many ruins to be
found, besides large hewn basalt squares, Corinthian
capitals with acanthus leaf, shafts of columns, and an
entire arched nicjie with radial shell-like decora
tions and beading. The real ancient site extends over
a wide field, covered with building stones, west of
the present village. In 1 Mace. v. 26, besides the
Casphor Khisfin, already mentioned, we are also
told of Alema. Now, as the natives of that village
write the name the same way, laying the accent on
the short article before the / (Kefrelma), whilst only
the officials write it Kefr el-Mi, we are driven to the
supposition as to whether a relic of this ' Alema' does
not remain in the present name. According to the
ordinary form used by the officials, the name signifies
' water village,' obviously with reference to the
richly-watered declivity.
During my stay in Kefr el-Mi, a fellah quietly told
me that in the yard of his neighbour a Sanam (idol)
had been discovered and again buried. After lengthy
parleyings we came to an agreement to disinter it
by a moonlight night, which we were successful in
doing, to my delight. Fig. 68 represents the statue,

THE J A ULAN.

175

38 inches high, cut in relief out of basalt stone ; it is
a male figure, whose right hand holds a rod up which
- — v

Fig. 68.
Statue in Basalt at Kafr el-Ma.
a snake is winding. The clothing consists of a scaly
shirt of mail which reaches to the knee, and cover
ing the chest. The head is swathed round with a
threefold kind of rope plait. The left arm bears a
broad bangle, and the hand a kind of feathered
arrow. The whole figure stands under a projecting
cornice of basalt stone, and is 3 feet in height, and
19! inches in breadth, and about 34 inches thick.
It is still found in situ, as is proved by the en
closing foundations ; but without further excavation

176 THE JAULAN

it is not possible to acquire a plan of the ancient
building.

Fig. 69,
Altar at Kefr el-Mi.
On this block, adorned with the statue, a small
altar stood, which is now to be found in the Menzul
of the Sheikh (Fig. 69). It is likewise of basalt,
2 feet high, and having a base 9 inches square. In
the centre of its upper surface there is a round cavity
4 inches in diameter. Its ornamentation, like that
of the statue, is tolerably stout and solid, the work
being carefully executed, and apparently very ancient.
I will not venture any suggestion as to the origin of
this statue.
From all the remains found in Kefr el-Mi and its

THE JAULAN. 177

neighbourhood, it appears to me certain that the
ancient place was once important and rich in archi
tectural buildings.
Kefr Naphdkh (C. 4). — An old Bedawin village,
which has been recently rebuilt by the Turkomans,
containing a large well-built corn magazine; old build
ing stones, mostly unhewn and long, appear in large
numbers, and, as in the neighbouring Bedarus, are
heaped up in regular hills, so that one is only able to
discover old square foundations with labour.
They are all, however, greatly weather-worn ; the
decoration of a large capital can scarcely be any
longer perceived, whilst some shafts of columns are
also very much injured. In the south of the ruins
the Turkomen have hollowed out a well-shaped cavity
some yards square, which is bricked in, and about
25 feet deep.
Very interesting are the sliding tombs lying close
to the margin of the widy (Figs. 70 and 71). They
consist of three rows of either thirteen or eleven
tombs, the inner of which measures 6\ feet in length,
23 inches in height and breadth. They are separated
from one another by basalt slabs, and covered in the
same way.
Each row has two layers, one upon another, but
all the graves lie beneath the surface of the ground.
The rows are divided off by passages 6 feet wide,
and shut in from above by a stratum of rock. The
N

178

THE JAULAN.

main direction of the passages is from north to south.
Towards the south the rocky Widy Kefr Naphikh

West

'Nord Fig. 7°-
Plan of Sliding Tombs.

Fig. 71-
Sketch of Sliding Tombs.
(Fig. 70, a), which makes a steep fall of some yards,
bounds the burying-place. The western portion of the
tombs is certainly fallen in, but, all the same, I believe
I have correctly rendered the plan of the whole in
Fig. 70. Not a trace of sarcophagi is to be seen.
Crossing the widy we arrive at the Via Maris, and

THE JAULAN. 179

then to a second ruined place lying opposite Kefr
Naphikh, with old walls and many building stones.
The region is very stony, but in spite of this, the
earlier place was of importance. Burckhardt, in
' Ritter,' 168, speaks of a large pool with a cir-r
cumference of 200 paces, with traces of a stone
aqueduct, which he called Birket Nefah or Tefah,
and which he mistook to be the Lake of Phiala.
The place, according to his description, is identical
with Kefr Naphikh, but the tank is no longer extant.
Perhaps the long wall running along the southern
margin of the widy has been a canal.
Kersa (B. 7). — A ruin on the shore of the Sea of
Tiberias, lying close to the discharge of the Widy es-
Semakh. The remains date from two periods ; a more
ancient one, from which only scattered building stones
and foundations are still extant, and a more recent
one, probably Roman, whose long walls, 3 feet thick,
are built of small stones joined with white mortar
similar to those found in Tiberias (see note to Kusr
el-Kelbeh). They enclose square rooms.
A round tower, built above the ruin on the lower
ledges of the slopes, dates from the same period.
According to the statements of the Bedawin, it bears
the name Kersa, or Kursu, because it is not unlike a
stool, whilst the already-mentioned walls on the lake
are called es-Sur.
Nevertheless, what is usually understood by Kersa is
' N 2

180 THE JAULAN.

the ruin generally, which is distinguished by a splendid
Butmeh. The ruins are extended, and it is thought
that traces of aqueducts can be distinguished. The
lime rocks of the neighbourhood have several large
natural cavities, especially over the lower ruin on the
slope. Steep precipices at a slight distance from the
Lake, like Mokaadlah, and at el-'Aret ridge of the
Widy es-Semakh, are numerous.
Up to now the site has been identified with the
Gergesa * (Matt, viii., 28).
Khalas (B. 7). — Some remains of ruins on one of the
mountain ridges, lying opposite the Kulat el-Husn.
The slopes down to the foot of el-Kulah exhibit
several grave holes cut in the hewn rocks, the pas
sages of which are, however, mostly choked up. I
must postpone for the present a closer investigation of
this place.
Khdn el-'Akabeh (B. 8). — A ruined building of the
Moslem period. It was originally an inn for caravans,
and is situated on the principal road leading from
the Jordan to Fik, Khisfin, and the Haurin. The
Khin has a quadrangular foundation. A yard
for the beasts, measuring 56 feet square, is enclosed
by a vaulted court 16 feet wide, for the reception
* The name Gergesa has been introduced into Biblical text
from the reading (veo-qvwv) Gergasenes in the Gospel of St.
Matthew, which is based on no good authority, but has
obtained currency through the influence of Origen. It would be
well to strike it out. Mark v. 1, Luke viii. 26, &c, refer to Gadara.

\

THE J A ULAN.

of persons. The walls (basaltic) are occasionally
6\ feet thick. In the east a pointed style of gate,
upon which are the remains of a beam arrangement,
leads into the courtyard (Fig. 72). The other pas-

Fig. 72.
Door in Khin el-'Akabeh.
a, front view ; b, Section of B.
sages, probably one on each side, are destroyed.
Close to the principal gate in the east there is an
Arabic inscription chiselled in white limestone, but it
is greatly decomposed. An open flight of stone steps
leads from the courtyard to the terrace, which, how
ever, at that time formed a part of the second storey.
The eastern gate, which is 7 feet and \o\ feet high,
is well built of hewn stones. Judging from the pivot
holes, the bar of the gate must have been a very
strong one ; 87 yards north of Khan we find a small
square ruin, no doubt the former watch tower ; 163

1 82

the j AulA n.

yards east is the magnificent spring, Ain el-Khin or
Ain el-'Akabeh, shaded by splendid trees ; it flows
south from Khin down towards Tawifik. The Khin
is built of huge basalt stones, for the most part
unhewn, between which are to be found some with
raised embossing, 3 feet in size.
This circumstance, in addition to the much weather
worn, but curiously ornamented basaltic stone in
the courtyard (Fig. 73), point to the conclusion that

Fig 73-
Ornamented Stone in Khin el-'Akabeh.
23I inches high by 35J inches long.
an ancient building stood here, probably dating from
Roman ages. The track of an old highway from the
Gh6r upwards to the neighbourhood of Kefr Hirib
can be followed up ; this, however, leaves the Khin
el-'Akabeh lying to the north, and is only connected
therewith by a side road. The highway is edged by
strong squared stone, and served at that time as a
bulwark against the steeply falling off Widy, the
edge of which it touches. This ancient highway
generally follows the new Sultineh el-'Akabeh, down

The jaulAn.

183

whose steep descent the caravanserai of the Hauran
thread their way all the summer. At the foot of the
mountain, where the road crosses the plain Ben et-
Tellul, some low round hills lie, which are called Ris
el-'Akabeh (also Ris Tawifik).
Khdn Bdndak and Dannikleh (C. 4) are the names
of a Turkoman village. The latter, however, chiefly
attaches to a group of fine trees, with some old
building remains somewhat south of the village,
marking in all probability the ancient site. Khin
Bindak contains about forty huts, miserably built out
of stone and earth, with 200 inhabitants, exclusively
Turkomans, who carry on some field and vegetable
cultivation. In the west of the village a spring with
a semi-circular enclosure of an ancient period bubbles
forth ; its flow irrigates some vegetable gardens.
Amongst the ornamentation the seven-branched
candlestick of the Jews is represented, as well as
the cross of the Christians (Figs. 74-76). The skill
manifested in the execution is, however, very inferior.

Figs. 74-76.
Ornamentation at Khin Bindak.
The quarried building stones are simply placed in
the walls. The space occupied by the old site was
not very extended.

184 THE JAULAN.

Khdn el-Barak (B. 7). — A heap of ruins on the de
clivities north of Kiil'at el-Husn.
Khdn fdkhaddr (E. 5). — A ruined Khin, on the
principal highway to Damascus, between Sueiseh and
Khisfin, at the foot of Tell Jdkhadar. This latter is
a hill extending from east to west, the most southerly
of the volcanic chain. '
Khdn esh-Sh'abaniyeh (D. 5). — A ruined Khin in
central Jaulan.
Khisfin (D. 6). — A middling sized village of the
Zawiyeh el-Ghurbiyeh. At the time of the Arab supre
macy it was an important town, the central point of
the district, and even down to the last century was
superior to all the other towns of the Zawiyeh. It
soon lost its importance and for a long time has been
quite deserted. If I remember rightly, Yakut mentions
the town of Khisfin as a principal military stronghold.
Burckhardt (' Ritter Erdk.' xv.) calls it Khastin, or
Chastein, by which designation it is marked in the
earlier maps of the Jaulin, and speaks of ' extensive
ruins of a city built out of the black basalt blocks of the
land with remains of a very important building.' In
the history of Judas Maccabeus (1 Mace. v. 26, 36), a
city called Casphor, in the land of Gilead, is mentioned
near Bosor (Bosra), Alema (Kefr el-Mi ?), and Kar-
naim (Tell el-Ash'ary), and which is probably iden
tical with Khisfin.
To-day Khisfin, although extensive, is a miserable

THE JAULAN.

185

village, consisting of scarcely 60 inhabited huts
with a census of about 270 souls. But three times
as many huts are destroyed and deserted, and good
hewn and unhewn basaltic stones lie in confusion
across one another. Here and there Roman ornamen
tation appears (Figs. 77 and 78), and the sign of the

Figs. 77, 78.
Ornamentation at Khisfin.
cross in a variety of forms on the same stone as shown
on Fig. 1 19. Most of these, however, are buried beneath
the ruins. The ruined huts are roofed with basalt
slabs in the style of the Haurin ; several are to be
found beneath the ground. In the western end of the
city the ruin of a large building is to be found, mea
suring 133 feet from east to west and 160 feet from
south to north (Fig. 79). There is a gate entrance
1 1 \ feet wide in the south.
In the west, outer walls, 6| to 9 feet thick (?), enclose
a passage 19^ feet in width ; then comes an inner wall
only 3 feet in thickness, which surrounds a rectangular
court-yard. The outer wall makes a kind of oblique

1 86

THE J A ULAN

slope and in the east has a buttress ; it is very solidly
n

 0

Fig. 79
Ruin in Khisfin.
built ; the whole gives the impression of a fort or forti
fied Khan, the architecture of which would probably
be about the time of Yakut, and which, like Khisfin,
served a military purpose.
El-Khoka (C. 6).— A little winter village with a
few huts, containing about twenty inhabitants. Its
position on the rising high plateau above the Batihah
is a peculiarly beautiful one.
Khurbet 'Ain el-Hor (D. 3). — A miserable little vil
lage, containing twenty-one huts with about ninety
inhabitants, north of el-Kuneitrah. Few, or indeed
no remains of any importance, are to be found here.
The spring has a trough, no flow, is in part enclosed
and contains good water. Every year the village
become smaller, because the inhabitants prefer to
annex themselves to the larger villages.

THE JAULAN. 1S7

Khurbet el-'Ardis (C. 7). — ' The ruins of the bride,'
lies a little way from the discharge of the Rukkid into
the Yarmuk, on the steep margin of the high plateau
of southern Jaulan. To-day it is only a heap of ruins
with a strong wall against the incline, which is a few
layers in height and 3 feet thick. Foundation walls
30 feet broad by a length of 13, 22, 25, and even
65 feet, are found ranged upon one another on the
highest places of the ruins, whilst other traces of the
same extend as far as the plain and down the slope.
This was once a settled and important place, as is
shown by its solid construction of large unhewn
basalt blocks set together without mortar. There
are also several bent angled embossments to be
found here. On the slope, about 131 feet below
the ruins, an excellent spring, the Ain el-'Ariis,
flows down into the ravine and joins the Ain es-
Fejjeh below, which is overgrown with splendid fig
trees, and which trickles down into the Rukkid.
Beyond Khirbet el-'Ariis a charming undulating
plain stretches right down to the Yarmuk. It bears
the name of the spring es-Fejjeh.
Khurbet el-'Ashek (B. 7).— A ruin close to the shore
of the Lake of Tiberias. It presents several founda
tion walls about 64 feet square, and lies on a small
artificial elevation. It is probably a decayed Khin of
the Moslem time (Fig. 80).
Khurbet 'Atdr Ghazdl (C. 5).— A small ruin north

THE JAULAN.

of el-Yehudiyeh, situated on a long extended ridge,
without any particular characteristics. The Ayun

. """"
LLDI
\ t W/"/J|l!||ll|l11WM: """iiijjmiiuiim'*^'-

- ""'/,lll

Fig. 80.
Kh. el-'Ashek.
Atir Ghazil lie on the western base of the ridge.
They have abundant water, and moisten the whole
surrounding country, in which the Arab el-Wesiyeh
cultivate some vegetables. Around the spring are
traces of masonry.
Khurbet el-Batrah (C. 5). — Totally crumbled ruins
of a small village below el-Yehudiyeh. An abundant
spring, Ain el-Batrah, flows in two branches from
the ruins to the Wady el-Yehudiyeh.
Khurbet ed-Durddra (B. 5). — A ruin with scattered
building stones on the Widy es-Saff "ah of the Batihah.
Khurbet fiat (D. 3). — A ruin north of el-Kuneitrah.
It occupies a small elevation, and presents a number of
unusually large unhewn basalt stones, the foundations
and walls being 3 feet and more in thickness. This
place was certainly at one time important and exten
sive ; the building stones are very much weather-worn
and consequently of great antiquity. An old highway

THE JAULAN. 189

setin strong square basalt stones may be followed from
el-Kuneitrah to Jiit, where it separates to the north
and east. Khurbet Jiit was the first Turkoman settle
ment in the Jaulin. To-day, with sad faces, they talk
of better days, and of the ever-increasing encroachment
of the Government and Circassians who have driven
them towards the south, and, above all, they regret
their robbing trade, which they were formerly able
to pursue unhindered. The Merj ej-Jiit, a little plain
without any water, stretches east of the Khurbet to
the Rukkid. The Tell Jiit is a small hill on which
the ruin leans.
Khurbet fort ed-Dhahab (B. 8) — A small ruin in the
Gh6r on the Yarmuk, at present a Bedawin graveyard.
The tombs bear the wasm of the Arab Beni Sakhr
and the Segur el-Ghor, and extend over a wide field
as far as Abu Kebir. The environs bear the name of
Jort ed-Dhahab to the Tellul es-S'ilib in the north.
The (Widy) Jort ed-Dhahab is a dry channel in
summer, which commences on the plain Ben el-
Tellul, and goes towards the Yarmuk. The entire
'lowland' (Jora) is bounded by the spurs of the
Tellul es-S'ilib in the west. This latter is a scarcely
perceptible elevation of the ground which the Yarmuk
breaks through, and thereby forms the Arik Abu
Jedeiyeh. Khurbet Kddana (E. 4). — The old site of the present
village of.Kodana, north of Tellul el-Humr. The Khur-

190 THE JAULAN.

bet is a hill a little south of the village, covered with a
heap of unhewn building stones, which are greatly worn
and therefore of great antiquity. On its northern base
a lovely running abundant spring rises, Ain Kodana
or Ras Ain Kddana, and which, collecting in a natural
reservoir, forms a watering place for cattle ; it then
flows into the Rukkid. Between it and the village a
second but feeble spring trickles from a decidedly
modern enclosure and joins the first mentioned.
At both springs are traces of enclosures and short
aqueducts. Close by is the village of Kddana, 6
miserable little huts with 30 inhabitants. This place,
too, once saw better days, as is proved by the exten
sive ruins, the carefully hewn building stones, the
remains of rounded apses 9^ to 11 feet wide, from
which, however, it is impossible to draw any plans of
the original foundations, and sarcophagi of basalt
which are sunk into the ground. The foundation
walls of other old rectangular buildings, without
mortar, are generally 3 feet, and spread over a circular
space. At the west end of the village there is an
especially large ancient building, called es-Sur, which
measures 101 feet east to west and 112 from north to
south. The assertion of the .natives that till shortly
before this it served as a Khin is substantiated by the
courtyard for stabling horses which runs round it.
The southern door reminds one of the Haurin style
(Fig. 81), and is apparently the sole remnant of

THE J A ULAN.

191

the original building. Traces of stone pivots (a)
point to an enclosure by means of a stone gate.

Fig. 81.
Door of es-Sur.
The keystone of the vertical arch of the door is
very peculiar.
Khurbet el-Meddn (B. 7). — A shapeless pile of ruins
on a small plain at the eastern base of the Kiilat
el-Husn. Khurbet el-Mudowarah (E. 5). — A small ruined heap
at the foot of Tell el-Faras, lying on the principal road
from Sueiseh to Khisfin. It has an excellent spring,
the Ain el-Mudowarah, which flows towards the
Rukkid and irrigates the beautiful country.
Khurbet Mukdtyeh (C. 7). — A few ruins on a large
spring, Ain Mukityeh, in the plain es-Fejjeh.
The ruins lie close beneath the rock precipices of

192 THE JAULAN.

Khurbet el'Ariis on the road from Dabbuseh to the
Yarmuk. Khurbet el-Mukhfy (D. 3). — The small scattered
building stones of a former village near el-Kuneitrah.
On the ridge above this latter lies the grave of the
Sheikh Muhammed el-Mukhfy a revered Turkish saint.
The tomb is rudely put together out of unhewn stones
and surrounded by a plain wall. From him the five
hill peaks of the neighbourhood receive the name of
Tellul el-Mukhfy. In former times they were so
thickly overgrown that one could only reach the sepul
chre by great exertions. The remains of woods, thick
bushes, and stunted trunks of trees corroborate this
assertion. The soil of the Tellul is of a striking
reddish-brown colour, of the same sort as the volcanic
cones, and is celebrated for its fertility. Near el-
Kuneitrah lies the scanty spring Ain el-Mukhfy, with
a pool which fills in winter,
Khurbet Sakukeh (C. 3). — A widely extended but
shapeless ruin on the western slope. Sheep folds
(Siyar) cover the site ; the building stones are small,
unhewn, and devoid of any ornamentation. Very few
ruins over so wide a district present such weather-worn
building material, with a complete absence of any kind
of regular plan. The Widy Sakukeh is small and
in summer dry. The name is pronounced by the
Bedawin with a softening of the k, and also as
Sakujjeh.

THE JAULAN. 193

Khurbet esh-Shareireh (B. 8). — A small shapeless
ruin at the foot of the mountain in the district of
Ben et- Tellul. There are no ancient remains, only
scattered building stones and a fine spring, Ain esh-
Shareireh. This rises somewhat higher up, at the foot
of the mountain, and irrigates some miserable vege
table gardens.
Khurbet Sihdn (D. 7). — A not unimportant ruin
on the widy of the same name, which, however, is
called above Widy el-Khidr. The remains point to
two periods of architecture, an ancient and a modern,
in which latter the old remains have been used in the
erection of small huts.
These, however, are already partly fallen to pieces.
Also, this last style of building is not that of the
present race, who do not understand how to place the
old stones and sashes of doors and windows so carefully
and cleverly upon one another as has already been
done. The building stones are large, basaltic, and in
parts hewn. At present the semi-crumbled places
showing traces of basaltic roofing are used as sheep
folds. Does not the name commemorate Sihon, King
of the Amorites ? At the place where the wady begins
to sink markedly in the ground, there is a swampy
spring on the way with a wide basin called Tiyih
Sihan, which in winter is full. On the east slope
of the Widy Sihin is the Bir el Abd, an abun
dant spring with fig trees, and further down in the
O

GOTTLIEB S CHUMACHER . C .IE .
June 1885.

Scale of Tards
-*9° 2Q° 30^0 400 500 600 700 800 000 1000

EoVWVaier.Tiflv.

THE J A ULAN 195

rounded on the north, south, and north-east by deep
rocky gorges, and as the summit itself is bounded by
basalt walls 60 and 70 feet in height, it forms a natural
fortification of a rare description. In the south-east,
only a very narrow ridge, the Dhahr el-Ahmir, runs
from the summit to the steep ascending Mukatt ej-
Jamusiyeh, falling then also, though at the same time
gradually, to a great depth. This ridge also presents
several fragments of ruins. The plateau is covered
with beautiful oaks and terebinths, which grow out
amidst the rude confused piles of old building stones.
If one throws a glance from the height of Kefr Hirib
to the fortification, the designations el-Husn and
Gamala (supposing that they really lie here), " horse
and camel " (see, however, p. 206, note 1), appear
justifiable, for the narrow ridge, Dhahr el-Ahmir,.
clings like a long outstretched neck on to the giant
body of the isolated mountain. Approaching the
Dhahr el-Ahmir from the Lake through Widy ej-
Jamusiyeh, one arrives first at its southern walls.
These embrace the ridge, which is only 90 feet wide ;
in the south, west, and east, having the colossal thick
ness of 12 feet, and are set in good mortar. The
material used is partly limestone, partly basalt stone,
with bosses which are 5 feet in length, and from 23
to 27 inches in height and breadth. In the west,
where the slopes fall gradually over precipitous basalt
walls, the strength of the walls is diminished, but they
o 2

196

THE JAULAN.

are nevertheless at times built in double. A small
tomb (?) cavern rests against the western wall (a). The
eastern wall retains its thickness of nearly 12 feet.
Beyond it large stone heaps may be observed, pro
bably the remnants of two towers (b and c), the latter
of which measures 25 feet — 24 feet encircled by a
separate wall. The many arch stones (?), having the

Fig. 82.

Fig. 83.

profile of Fig. 82, half-columns (Fig. 83), fragments of
columns, cornices with egg moulding, prove that an
arched structure stood here. As several sarcophagi
are let into the rock terraces close by in the north,
and likewise outside the wall, this building was pro
bably a mausoleum, as one can hardly imagine a gate
construction here. The sarcophagi, formed of lime
stone, are from 5 feet to 7 feet in length, 24 inches in
breadth, and 20 inches in height. They are partly
closed by a heavy basalt cover, and then let into a
rock niche (Figs. 84 and 85). Their longitudinal axis
is from north to south. One of these sarcophagi, by
way of exception, is made from Ajlun marble, and

THE JAULAN

197

carefully worked with a chisel (?) On its eastern side
there is, by way of ornament, an arcade with rosettes

Fig. 84. Fig. 85.
Section of Sarcophagus.
and an inscription tablet. This, however, does not
bear any written characters, but appears to have been
intended for the reception of a metal plinth. The
wreath moulding, that the sarcophagus bears above, is
only a slightly projecting ornament, and seems, like
the rest, to be the work of an unpractised hand ; but
it may be regarded as a leading ornamentation of the
Jewish architectural period at the commencement of
our era. This sarcophagus likewise distinctly extends
from north to south, and is set in a rock niche close
to the northern side of the remains. The northern
end of the cavern-chamber, which is 20 inches deep,
is rounded, forming probably the place for the head
(see Figs. 86-90). Proceeding from c to 160 feet
further north of the Dhahr, we reach a rock gate (d),
that is a gate construction closing one of the passages
cut in the rock, of which only fragments of the bases
(Fig. 91) are remaining.

198

THE JAULAN.

At this spot the approach to the fort above could be
easily shut off, because the rock walls on each side of

s ¦

Ut

Fig. 86.
Plan of Sarcophagus.

Z.Ztm, Fig. 87.
Side View.

Fig. 88.
End View.

the gate fall r recipitously, and the rock trenches be-

THE J A ULAN.

i 99

fore the gate would weaken an attack. Behind this
gate there is a Bedawin tomb with a stone circle (see
p. 129). The wall in the west gradually vanishes,
but stretches towards the east in a slightly less solid

Fig. 89.

Fig. 90.

construction as far as the gate of Kulah, although
the precipitous walls of the Widy Shib Musmir
afford a natural protection. The slightly rising
ridge has meanwhile contracted to a width of 49 feet.
Over high piled-up basalt blocks which must have
been hurled down from the plateau of Kulah in con
sequence of an earthquake, the gate of Kulah is
reached, lying 1 30 feet above the southern extremity
of Dhahr, and 534 feet above the Mediterranean Sea,
or 1,216 feet above the Lake of Tiberias. This gate,
enclosed and protected by huge blocks of rock, has an
original width of 12 feet. Basalt walls laid in crumb
ling white mortar rise on each side and extend in a
thickness of 1 3 feet around the margin of the plateau ;
they are in part destroyed, and in part preserved to
the height of 3 feet. From the gate, and in the same

THE J A ULAN.

breadth (12 feet) a rectilinear street runs which is only
once broken, and is paved with basalt flags. It goes
over the plateau as far as its western wall, and is
bounded on both sides by massive ruins, square
foundations, fragments of columns, and defaced pro
files. The northern enclosure wall is the weakest ;
there the slopes fall at an angle of 360 to 40°, and
then as steep basalt walls into the Widy Fik, the
wide opening of which was not favourable to an
assault or bombardment on this side.
A single tower shows that the gate had surveillance.
The southern side has only moderately strong walls,
which are in parts 4^ feet thick, but g\ feet high, and
are built over the precipice of the perpendicular
basalt rocks with a fall of 65 to 100 feet. A pres
sure from this side would have been still less to be
feared, if the Widy ej-Jamusiyeh had not permitted
a siege of arrows from the heights of Khalas by means
of the narrow aperture it makes here (see plan). It
is for this reason that two strong towers once over
topped this southern fortification wall. In the west,
where the basalt lava runs in terraces, there is a
double wall fallen to the ground, with a tower ruin
on the southern corner of the wall. Probably also a
gate stood here on the western edge of the street, but
the ruins are too scattered for any certainty about
this. The plateau, or summit, shut in by enclosure
walls, hid the city. The visible foundations are

THE J A ULAN,

201

pressed close upon one another ; they are for the most
part hanging together, and in any case only leave
space for a very few side streets in between them. The
length of the plateau, or more correctly the principal
street, amounts to 600 yards ; the breadth varies
between 120 yards in the east, 262 yards in the
centre, and 142 in the west. The building stones are

Fig. 91 and 92.
Bases of Columns cut in the rock at Kiilat el-Husn.

Fig. 93-
Capitals at Kiilat el-Husn.

large and hewn, but much weather-worn ; the capitals

THE JAULAN.

and bases of columns in the Ionic, Corinthian, and
Doric styles show the slightly projecting profile of
the sarcophagus described above (Fig. 86-90).
Very plentiful are the cone-shaped cover ornaments
of columns, which substituted capitals (Fig. 94) : also

hollowed shafts of columns (Fig. 95), arch stones of

the kind shown in Fig. 96, and fragments of pipes,

THE JAULAN.

203

0,35m-> Fig. 96.
Arch Stone.
probably the remains of an aqueduct, all of basalt
(Fig- 97)-

| o.tom

Fig. 97-
Section of Pipe of Aqueduct.
The egg ornamentation is absent from the egg-
staved and serrated circlet (Fig. 98) ; instead only

Fig. 98.
Cornice at Kulat el-Husn.
cavities are to be seen, which perhaps were inlaid with
precious stones. About the centre of the plateau,
near the principal street, two large still partly pre
served buildings stand. The eastern (Fig. 99) is
square, and very strongly walled, its northerly wall
rising on the principal street shows inside a niche

2J4

THE J A ULAN.

I m. in width, and was connected by an arch with a
demolished building which adjoins. Near this lies a

Fig. 99.
Old Building.
granite column 13^ feet long, and 19^ inches in
diameter ; others likewise of granite, but only 5 feet
to 6\ feet in length, are to be found in the environs.
Proceeding 100 yards further west, a second building
is met, which is unusually solidly built of great
hewn quarry stones on a rectangular groun d plan ;
on its eastern side there is a niche 19 feet wide (see
the plan, d, Fig. 100). Have we a synagogue or a

South

Fig. 100.
El-Habs at Kiilat el-Husn.
Place of Justice before us ? The thickness of the
walls cannot be exactly determined. Here also large
granite columns lie round about East of this niche
there is a large well-fiiled cistern, 59 feet long, 17^

THE JAULAN. 205

broad, and 28| high, which is accessible from the
east by a flight of steps, and is called by the natives
el-Habs 'the prison' (Fig. 100, c). Possibly it
was once filled by a conduit. Besides this, there are
still several other large cisterns in the west of the
plateau. Many depressions and holes in the ground
indicate that this city had also subterranean chambers.
One of these is still to-day accessible ; it lies close to
the northern wall of the western corner of the plateau.
A small staircase leads into a choked up, low, but
broad room, supported by rafter columns ; its walls
are worked in hammer and chisel, but are not dressed.
These subterranean chambers probably served as
places of refuge during sieges ; there must have also
been outlets leading down to secret paths of the
mountain, otherwise they would scarcely have con
structed these so near the fortification wall where a
foot descent is possible.
If we compare Kul'at el-Husn with the testimony
of Josephus about Gamala ('Jewish Wars,' iv. 1.), we
can scarcely doubt the identity of these two places.
The deep valleys of the sides and front are the Wady
Fik and ej-Jamusiyeh ; the transverse ditches are
found in front of the rock gate described ; the plateau
bore the ' closely ' built houses of the city ; the spring
inside the wall is the el-Habs which supplied the
cistern with spring water by a conduit from without.
As to the subterranean passages and sepulchres

206 THE JAULAN.

which Josephus mentions, we have probably a trace of
them in the chamber described above in the north
west corner of the plateau. The old name, Gamala,
which the dwellers did not pronounce correctly in the
time of Josephus,* has been supplanted by Husn,
which signifies ' horse,' as well as ' natural fortifi
cation.' As the last meaning is already expressed
by the preceding Kulah, we must certainly abide by
the former.
The designation ' horse,' however, recalls the place
Hippos, or the province Hippene, in which, as we saw
on page 195, this fortification must certainly have
laid.f El-Kuleiah (E. 5). — A rugged, rocky, crescent-
* Josephus says ('Jewish Wars,' iv. 1,) that the natives did
not correctly express the exact meaning of the name of this
place (in the pronunciation).
t Compare with this the opinion of Frei in Z. D.V. P. ix.,
130. Frie appears, in my opinion correctly, to reject the
dentification of Kul'at el-Husn. It is true that some charac
teristics correspond to the description given by Josephus :
others, however, are so decidedly opposed to the identity that
there is little to be placed on the points of agreement. If one
rigidly compares the statements of Josephus with those given
in Schumacher's carefully sketched plan it is impossible to
resist the impression that Josephus had another site in his mind.
The designation el-Husn cannot be otherwise explained than in
the names Husn el-Akrid or Kul'at el-Husn near Horns, Husn
Suleiman in the Lebanon mountains, Husn Hiha north of
Zahleh in the Lebanon district. In all these cases it means
fortification (Socin, Z. D. V. P., iv., 4). The word Husn does
not mean horse, but el-Hisin means stallion.

THE J A ULAN. 207

shaped crater, the most fissured of all the volcanic
chain south of Tell el-Faras. In front of the principal
western crater lies a smaller and more easterly one,
the Tell ed-Dar'aiyeh, probably a portion of an earlier
crater. El-Kuneitrah (1) (D. 6). — A large ruin, with crumb
ling winter huts on the Widy el-Kuneitrah, a side
valley of the Widy Joramiyeh.
Distinct traces of a city wall run round the square-
built place, which stands only a little higher than the
plain. The building stones are fitted in white
mortar, but are small, and do not recall the finished
masonry of the Roman ruins. The foundations also
point to large buildings at this place, which belong to
the latest architectural style, not counting the most
recent, probably of the Moslem era. A dirty spring
rises in the north, and flows into the Widy el-
Kuneitrah. El-Kuneitrah (2) (D. 3). — The principal place and
seat of Government of the Jaulin. The 'city' — so
the Kaimakam wishes it designated — consists of 260
buildings, which are mostly well and carefully con
structed of basalt stones, and contains, excluding the
soldiers and officials, 1,300 inhabitants, principally
Circassians. The Serai is a two-storied and, for this
country, fine and solid building ; it embraces a large
courtyard, and near the apartments of the officials on
the second storey there are dwellings for soldiers and

208 THE JAULAN.

stables in parterre. On both sides of it range evenly
constructed chief streets ; they run from north to
south, are 35 feet broad, and have raised pavements
for the booths of the Damascene merchants.
At right angles to the principal streets side streets
lead to well-built magazines and private dwellings.
It does one's eyes good, after having seen so many
devastated places, to arrive at a flourishing, evenly-
constructed, clean village, whose inhabitants, with
their magistrate, or Kaimakam, an energetic, indus
trious old Turk, immigrated from the neighbourhood
of the chief Turkish town, have more feeling for
European systems than the citizens of many towns in
this country.
Looking, too, at the towering hay-cocks, the swift,
rattling Circassian carts, the preparation of dried
bricks from the fine earth of the neighbourhood, and,
above all, the cleanliness of the streets, one asks in
voluntarily, 'Am I in the Jaulin?' The merchants
have for sale pretty nearly all that is required by an
Oriental citizen household. Once, and sometimes
three times, a week caravans bring wares and dried
fruit from Damascus ; here they rest for one day,
crossing the Jisr-Benit el-Yakub on the following day
in order to reach Western Palestine.
In the place itself turkeys are reared.
The surroundings of this place are lovely and
fertile. It lies on the northern extremity of a high

THE JAULAN. 209

valley, looks north on the Tellul el-Mukhfy, south on
the Hami Kursu, and west on the great dew and
' rain-distributing ' Tell Abu en-Neda. At an early
hour in the morning a thick fog rises out of its crater,
and envelopes el-Kuneitrah and its neighbourhood in
a damp fertilising mantle, which only subsides before
the rising sun. It is for this reason that el-Kuneitrah
is cool also in summer, but is in winter the scene of a
heavy snowfall, a result of its high position (3,300
feet) and the proximity of the high mountains. We
have already seen that the district is windy (see the
Jort el-Hawa). In the north stands a windmill,
whose naked arms have suffered from the violence of
the storm. Its roof, not having been movable, has
yielded to the strong winds, and is at the present day
useless. In the middle a splendid clear spring rises, which
yields water in abundance for all. The spring-head
is in a basin 10 feet square and 6 feet deep. It is
called el-Hammim, and sends off its water in various
directions amidst clayey reeds. One of these, serving
as the flow of the principal stream surrounds the
place in the north, and enters the plain as the Widy
el-Kuneitrah. A little further east it feeds some
large natural reservoirs, never absent from any
Circassian village, and then turns slowly to the
Rukkid. As is obvious from its name, el-Hammim
was an ancient bath ; the walls consist of hewn and
P

THE J A ULAN.

unhewn building stone set in white mortar. Near the
Hammim rises the modern mosque. It is decorated
with old Byzantine scroll ornamentation, which is
chiselled in peculiarly soft whitish-yellow stone
(clay), and may be considered a masterpiece of its
kind (Fig. 101). Not far from this mosque a beauti-
*  50cm  ¦»

Fig. 101.
Scroll ornamentation.
fully polished granite column stands, 8 feet in length
and 21 inches in diameter, which, at the time of my
visit was brought to the new mosque. Granite is very
rarely met with in the Jaulin, and implies a build
ing of particular importance. Besides the Byzantine
decorations, we find the leaf ornamentation modelled

THE J A ULAN.

on basalt of Fig. 102, which is 5 feet in height, and a

Fig. 102, — Leaf ornamentation on Basalt Slab.
characteristic piece of Haurin architecture. On the
door-posts of the Suk or market one may observe
P 2

THE JAULAN

several crosses on old stones (Fig. 103). Christian

* © 4<

1.60 m.

T 0,28 i

Fig. 103. — Lintel with Crosses.
symbols (Figs. 104 to 106) are also found on basalt

o,80

K I A N <H

TTA Y CON

N AO Y

re 0) P TV '

CNGAAC

KUA l£BK

£ B (j> o /*

••f^fegfeWiw

Fig. 104. — Greek Inscription.

THE J A ULAN.

213

v,is

Fig 105. — Greek Inscription.

0,20

6Y M

Y?A 2L

e* o y

h e-y

o,hi

AJH PK

1
Fig. 106. — Greek Inscription.
tombstones bearing Greek inscriptions in the old

214 THE JAULAN.

graveyard south of the village, now, unfortunately,
built over. These gravestones are unhewn ; the
inscription is deeply engraved, but with very little
workmanship. El-Kuneitrah was formerly a Khin, a caravansary
with military stations, at which, as at present, the
camel caravans make a halt, bringing the most
valued articles, such as tea, spices, coffee, dates, &c,
from Damascus and the valley of the Euphrates.
Twenty years ago it was not yet the seat of Govern
ment, and even at the beginning of this century, as is
shown by Burckhardt's Report (' Ritter,' O.S., 167),
was a deserted spot. Burckhardt also discovered
granite pillars on a beautiful mosque, and tried to
identify the old Sik, north of the Khin, with
Kenath. The Khin has disappeared, and the Serii
arose from its ruins. Very little is to be seen at
present of the old site ; most of the old building
stones have been used again, and only rude, dis
jointed basalt wall remains are to be found in the
north, not far from the windmill.
The proper building stone of el-Kuneitrah is
basalt. As I have already mentioned, it is made in
part of clay bricks, mixed with fine straw, from
12 by 4 by 3 inches, and then dried in the sun. This
material, made by the Circassian with great care, is
not to be despised, but it does not come up to the
hard basalt, which is so durable.

THE JAULAN. 215

Kurm el-Emir (C. 3). — Vineyards, with a large
building near Skek, the property of the Arab el-Fadel.
El-Kusbiyeh (C. 5). — Also called el-Kusebiyeh, is a
heap of ruins south-west of Selukiyeh. The highest
point is occupied by a totally destroyed square build
ing, on the slopes of which several foundations are to be
seen, built of unhewn stones and fitted without mortar.
A quantity of building rubbish and stones cover the
immediate surroundings. At the western base of the
hill a spring set in careful old masonry rises, which is
overshadowed by a wild fig tree, and in the abundance,
clearness, and purity of its water leaves nothing to
be desired. It flows, as an active stream, 437 yards
towards south-west, then unites with an equally
abundant spring, and after a short course turns a
corn mill. They irrigate some vegetable gardens
and fields, and finally enter the gorge of the
Wady Bir el-Kabak or Wady el-Yehudiyeh. The
country is stony, but extraordinarily fertile and rich
in water.
Kiisr Berdawil (C. 7). — A small ruin close to the fall
of the Widy ed-Difleh, with several building stones
and traces of a large building and choked-up cis
terns. It is said great caverns are to be found in the
perpendicular rock walls beneath the ruin. The
position of this ' fortress of Baldwin,' who, according
to tradition, gladly tarried here, is an imposing
one and is naturally protected ; it commands the

2i6 THE JAULAN.

deep and broad valley, as well as the surrounding
plateau. KHsr el-Kelbeh (B. 8).—' The castle of the bitch.' A
small ruin on a terrace in Gh6r, near the Lake of
Tiberias, 6\ feet in height and 10 feet square. It is
solidly built with white mortar and unhewn stones,
exactly like the Roman ruins near Tiberias ; possibly
a small tower or monument. The saying goes that a
company from the neighbouring Semakh had pre
pared for a journey into the Ghdr, and encamped
here with the object of partaking of a meal. Whilst
the food was being served out, a serpent dashed out
of the brushwood, licked the food, and vanished,
The company fled apart, but soon, however, were
just about to continue their repast when their little
dog snatched a few bites, and immediately sunk
down dead. The food had been poisoned by the
snake, but the little dog had saved the lives of the
party ; they therefore determined to erect a memorial.
So narrates the Sheikh of the Arab Segur el-Gh6r.
El-Kuweiyir (B. 7). — The small sloping plateau of a
hill on the Lake of Tiberias, bounded by steep limestone
rocks ; it has a few remains of masonry on its eastern
half. According to oral testimony, travellers recog
nise in this place the Gamala of Josephus ; but more
serious consideration should be given as to whether
Kiilat el-Husn is not equivalent to this ancient
place. Moreover, the opinion of the inhabitants that

THE JAULAN. 217

a ' Burj ' stood there once is not improbable, and
agrees with De Bertou's statement (' Ritter,' O.S., 28),
that the rock hill is called ' Khin el-Kueir,' and that
on it is ' a caravansary in ruins.'
El-Ldweh (C. 6). — A miserable Bedawin winter
village and some ruins, surrounded by beautiful oak
trees, on the northern margin of the Widy es-
Semakh. Close by is el-Mushkerfiweh, likewise a winter
village with a few huts, containing many old building
stones and splendid oaks. Now and then some
Bedawin families inhabit the huts during the sum
mer. The place is certainly the one which Burck
hardt heard named ' Mejeiferah,' near whose ruins
the Widy es-Semakh debouched into the Lake, but
which Zeetzen or Bertou found again (' Ritter,' OS.,
355). The statement about its position is, on the
whole, not incorrect, because el-Mushkerfiweh lies
above the debouch on the plateau.
For the pronunciation of the name, see index.
El-Maghrik (C. 1). — A small flanking plain of the
Merj el- Yafureh, not far from Mejdel esh-Shems, so
called because the melting snow inundates the seeds
and smothers them.
Several water-trenches soak through it.
Makdm el-Emir (C. 2). — The tomb of an old Emir
of the Arab el-Fadel, lying north-west of Skek, and
overshadowed by a group of magnificent trees.

218 THE JAULAN.

Makhdd Esbeh (C. 5). — A passage of the Widy
Ghadir en-Nuhis, near the rock gate Shafit Esbeh.
Makhddet el- Adesiyeh (B.8).— A ford of the Yarmuk
at Abu Kebir.
Makhddet el-Ikfid (B. 8).— A ford on the Yarmuk,
near Khurbet Jort ed-Dhahab.
Makhddet el-Mar'eiyeh and Makhddet Umm esh-
Sheriib (C. 8). — Two fords of the Yarmuk below and
above Makhidet Umm Kharrubeh.
Makhddet es-Siyarali (B. 5). — A ford of the Jordan,
at a rapid part of the river, between the Lake of
Huleh and the Lake of Tiberias.
Makhddet Umm Kharrubeh (C. 8). — A ford of the
Yarmuk below Dabbuseh.
Makran el- Wididn (B. 6). — This is the name of the
swampy delta formed in the Batihah by the de
bouching of the rivers into the Lake of Tiberias.
Mamid el-Ma'dnik (B. 8). — A long extended ridge
of the slope at Khin el-'Akabeh.
El-Mansiirah (D. 3). — A large Circassian village,
near el-Kuneitrah, comprising about 90 villages and
400 inhabitants. It is growing rapidly, and shares with
el-Kuneitrah and Ayun es-Suwin the splendid plain,
stretching between the two volcanic ranges, for its
agriculture. El-Manstirah (D. 5). — A small Bedawin winter
village on the upper Widy Joramiyeh, containing only
four huts, without any ruins worthy of notice.

THE JAULAN. 219

El-Medjdmia (C. 5). — A heap of ruins, the stones
mostly rough and unhewn, and decaying Bedawin
huts in a beautiful position at the commencement of the
woody district north of Batihah. A good spring rises
550 yards further north. The neighbouring Widy el-
Medjimia (Widy, ed-Dalieh), only 25 feet deep here,
has clear, vigorous-flowing, good water, and countless
fish in the rock clefts. Riding from here to the large
ruin el-'Asellyeh, one crosses a splendid wood district
of terebinths, oaks, and wild almond bushes, within
which small tracts have been made arable, and where
the good stoneless basalt soil ought to be productive.
This region forms a depression, or more correctly the
last terrace of the lava torrent, which falls from the
high plateau to the Batihah, and is spread over with
an alluvial layer sufficient for agricultural purposes.
Traces of old roads and nameless ruin heaps are very
plentiful in this beautiful district, which seems to
have been created for a small colony. Water, like
building stones, is very plentiful, and if this portion
of the Batihah could be subjected to systematic
cultivation, a highly rich agricultural district, mea
suring over 8,000 hectares, would be enclosed.
If these were also to take place in the ez-Zawiyeh
el-Ghurblyeh in the south-east, then a high plateau in
a central position, with an area of at least 1,500
square miles, would be accessible to human labour,
producing the most important fruits, and which

THE J A ULAN

would not be too far distant from Palestine and its
sea coast.
This district would border on the east, the
magnificent Haurin, with its extended corn-fields
and towards north-west, lie near the upper Jaulin,
with its luxuriant pasturage for cattle breeding. A
single railway line would place this district in com
munication with the central point of our civilisation.
El-MedjnAneh (C. 8). — One of the characteristic
smooth terraces of the Yarmuk declivity, similar to
the plain es-Sateh (roof) near el-Hammeh.
El-Mejdeliyeh (D. 6).— (See under el-Ebkuriyeh.)
Merj et-Tabel (D. 2). — An undulating district south
of Jebiti el-Khishib, in close proximity to which a
sacred tree stands.
Merj el- Y'ajiireh (D. 2).— A plain south of Mejdel
esh-Shems, flooded by the Nahr es-Sa'ir, which
latter turns some mills, and irrigates the poplar
groves (H6r) and meadows. The plain is named from
the whitewashed cupola of a Moslem saint, which is
situated in the southern part of Birket Rim ; the
water of a rich spring flows by it, and turns a mill
in the neighbourhood of the Birket Rim.
El-Mes'adi (C. 2). — A hamlet consisting of 60 huts,
deserted in summer, near the Birket Rim, belonging
to the adjoining Mejdel esh-Shems.
The inhabitants only use the huts during seed and
harvest time. Every door is -fastened by a block of

THE JAULAN.

wood or piled-up stones, but the huts themselves are
carelessly built.
El-Mes'adiyeh (B. 6). — A ruin and winter village of
the Arab el-Tellawiyeh, on an artificial elevation of
the Batihah on the Lake of Tiberias.
The ruins, with a few palms and fruit trees, the
last remains of a once large vegetation, are unim
portant, although extensive ; the building stones are
mostly unhewn. The place is surrounded by marshes,
and consequently unhealthy.
The Widy el-Mes'adiyeh or Widy es-Saffah, de
bouches west of the Widy ed-Dalieh, and east of the
ruins, into the Lake. To me it appears that the old
site corresponds to the Biblical Bethsaida Julias,
because, at the present time, it lies quite close to the
Lake, and in earlier times must have lain imme
diately on the Lake (see, however, under et-Tell).
El-Mezrda (C. 2). — The village opposite the winter
quarters of the Fellahin, is on the Widy Za'ora.
In seed time it is used for storing grain. In summer,
i.e., from May to the end of July, the Mezra'a is
deserted, like the winter villages of the Bedawin.
Mikiall (C. 7). — A ruin without importance in
Widy Fik with some pools grown round with olive
groves. Mdbarah (D. 7). — Extremely rocky and wild slopes
on the northern bank of the Rukkid, near Kefr el-Mi.
Some remains of ruins and caves are to be found in

THE JAULAN.

the basalt rocks bounding the plateau ; they are
called Tiket el-Harireh.
MSbarat 'Ayun (B. 8). — A district close to the
precipice of the Wady Ayun, north of the same-
named ruin.
El-Mudowarah (C. 7). — A ruin and some winter
huts on the small plateau of Lime-hill, on the upper
Widy es-Semakh.
El-Muesi (C. 3). — A small pile of ruins at the foot
of the Shafit Kiittah. Near it stands the Shejert el-
Muesi, an isolated tree with a few ruins. The district
is a solid mass of lava, and uncommonly stony.
Mukatt ej-famusiyeh (B. 7). — A terraced slope above
Kiilat el-Husn. (See p. 195.)
Mumeseh (D. 4). — Two newly-established Circassian
villages, one of which leans directly on the northern
promontory of the Himi Kursu, and contains 22
huts, whilst the other lies somewhat more west on
the plain, and consists of about 60 buildings. Both
flourish more rapidly than the other Circassian vil
lages, are well and spaciously built, and have
together a population of about 330 persons ; there
are few old building stones.
El-Muriyeh (E. 6). — Heaps of ruins and sheep-folds
on the steep fall of the Nahr er-Rukkid.
El-Mushbak (C. 6). — A heap of ruins at the spot
where the Widy esh-Shebib and the Widy ed-Difleh
join the Widy es-Semakh. Great basalt building

THE J A ULAN. 223

stones and some splendid terebinths mark out the
place. Still more ancient building remains and a
luxuriant plant growth are to be found towards the
east. El-Mushkerfdweh (C. 6). — (See el-Lawiyeh.)
Ndb (D. 7). — Ruins on a hill in the ez-Zawiyeh el-
Ghurbiyeh district, with the spring Ain Nib in the
north-east, and an old stone enclosed pool in the
south-west, which is partly fed by the spring.
Beneath the debris lie large unhewn and hewn
stones, basalt columns, and the usual Haurin orna
ments, very much defaced. The walls of the fallen-
in old buildings are 29^ inches in thickness, and
arranged in courses as shown by Fig. 107.

Fig. 107.
Plan showing layer of stones in wall.
Burckhardt speaks of a rain-pool — Nam — in this
district, which is probably identical with Nib.
Nahr er-Rukkdd and Nahr es-Sa'dr (D.F.E.). — (See
PP- 31, 33-)
Nakasa (B. 7). — An extended but shapeless ruin on
Jebel Zafarin, near Fik, distinguished by its beautiful
situation. Namrah (C. 2). — A small ruin, with crumbled winter

224 THE JA ULAN.

huts and sheep-folds, and a few old building stones,
near the Birket Ram.
Nti'ardn (C. 4). — A large ruin on the via maris.
Here the roads part, the via maris taking a more
northerly direction to el-Kuneitrah, whilst the second
(es-Sultaneh) strikes east over er-Ruzaniyeh to the
Tell el-Faras. According to native tradition, in earlier
times Nu'arin was an important caravan station. The
ruins are on a hill, whose rocky eastern part falls into
a valley watered by a spring. They indicate two
kinds of construction : a subterranean, to which
rooms covered with basalt flags belong ; and to a
Roman, from which the walls jointed in mortar and
column ornamentation date. In the north there are
walls from 31 to 35 inches thick, which are in courses
like those in Bedarus. South of the ruin a building,
called el-Hammin (Fig. 108), rises 10 feet above a good
spring amongst fig trees and palma christi bushes.
The edifice is laid in mortar, and has a fallen-in cupola
in the east, and an antechamber in the west. The walls
are about 3 feet thick ; the cupola was built of small
stones, with a good deal of mortar, &c, and is of the
same description as the Roman remains in Tiberias.*
Steps lead up from the spring to the building, which
in former times was probably a bath. On a stone near
a cross (Fig. 109, a) is to be found several ornamenta
tions which appear to have been only scratched with
* Compare my note to Kusr el-Kelbeh on p. 216.

THE JAULAN

225

an iron graving tool, for instance, an eagle (Fig. 109, b),
which, like the other ornaments, is defaced, and only
exhibits a small measure of art. The decorated stones
have rounded upper edges, are long and narrow, and
must have been used as brackets or corbels. On the
building stones of the northern part there is a kind of

Fig. 108. — Old Building in Nuaran.

Fig. 109. — Ornamentation on Stones.
rosette decoration. The capitals, Fig. 1 10, a and b, are
basaltic, and in the Doric or Haurin style.
Q

226 THE JAULAN.

Burckhardt speaks of the ruins of a town, Nowarin,
which, in Crusading times (Wilken, ' Gesch der Kr.,' ii.,

*— -0,*0*-— »^

^—

0*5

— »

hil'Vy- flw t7\\-.- 1..': |

^

I^

r

Fig. no.
Capitals in Nuarin.
68, according to Ritter), was called Nuara. Accord
ing to Schubert's observation, walnut and oak trees
grew near the abundant springs, but to-day we only
find fig trees and palma christi shrubs.
Er-Rafid (E. $). — A considerable ruin on the princi
pal highway, near Tell el-Faras. Although the huts of
the Bedawin are destroyed, these still encamp in the
immediate neighbourhood, and seek for treasure in the
old ruins. In the middle of the ruins is an old aque
duct, which conveys the water from a spring which
rises in the north of the plain. It is called Ain er-
Rafid, and is celebrated for its abundance and excel
lence. An eastern arm flows into the Rukkid. The
district abounds in water as well as pasturage, and
recently been seized by the Government. Two
periods of architecture are distinguishable in the ruins.
The old Haurin style below, and the Arabian one
above ground. To the former belong small subter
ranean remains, overlaid with basalt slabs, which are
rudely constructed ; there are also a quantity of un-

THE JAULAN. 227

hewn basalt blocks. Portions of buildings originating
in the Arabic period are found on the surface of the
ground ; they are better built, and separated into two
parts by an arch.
The arches bear Haurin characters, as in el-Butmiyeh
(Fig. 111). Their apartments contain in parts stone

Fig. in.
cells (see Fig. 1 1 2). The square doors present over
the lintel square apertures 20 inches square, executed
in the Haurin style, or instead of that a rosette, 10

Fig. 112.
Door in er-Rafid.
inches in diameter, similar to the centre one (Fig. 113).
The subterranean walls, as well as those above
ground, are as much as 3 feet in thickness. To the
Christian period belong the carefully hewn door posts
which are partly decorated with a rectilinear cross,
and partly in the manner of Fig. 103. The ornament
of Fig. 1 14 is more peculiar. In the south-east of the
Q 2

228

THE J A ULAN

Fig. 113. Fig. 114.
Ornamented Lintels.
place we find tiaces of foundations of a building with
apses, probably of a church (Fig. 115). Some of the

/"—A/

Fig. 115
Plan of Church ?
stones are large and carefully hewn, some are rude.
The wall course, about 3 feet thick, follows without
mortar, and in such a way that the stones of the single
courses, which are 12 to 16 inches high, lie across
each other diagonally in the manner shown on
Fig. 116.

Fig. 116.
Sketch showing Stones in Wall.
Beneath the ruins several vaulting and keystones

THE J A ULAN 229

lie, proving the construction of a dome-shaped apse.
The outer sides of the walls appear to have consisted
throughout of carefully hewn stones.
Er-Rafid, so far as the quantity of building stones
and the well-preserved parts of buildings are con
cerned, is one of the most important ruins in the
Jaulin, and must have been inhabited till quite
recently. Altogether, antiquity seems to have early
recognised the value of the fruitful irrigated district
between el-Kulei'ah, and the Tellul el-Humr, Tell el-
Faras, and the Rukkid, and to have adorned it with
solid structures.
Rakdkiyah (C. 8). — The lava terrace bounding the
Yarmuk below Dabbuseh, an eastern flank of the plain
es-Sateh, near el-Hammeh ; the Arak Rakikiya are'
the slopes of the plateau overtopping this terrace.
Rds el-Hal (E. 7).— Also called Tell el-Ehdeb. A
pointed hill on the eastern slope of the Rukkid, which
probably had its origin in a gliding hill, and which
bears some ruins on its ridge (see p. 35).
Rds esh-Sheikha (B. 8). — -A mountain prominence
near the Khirbet esh-Shareireh, north of Khin el-
'Akabeh. Rasm el-Hirdn (E. 5). — A rocky ridge, the termina
tion of a lava torrent, with some ruins, east of er-
Rafid, on the Rukkid.
Er-Rdwiyeh (C. 3). — Eleven winter huts belonging
to the 'Arab el-Hawij, with some old remains, under

230 THE JAULAN.

which are foundations, and in the west a large enclosing
wall, built of rude basalt blocks. Beyond this a square
cavity in the ground is likewise set in old masonry ;
the last is perhaps an old reservoir. In the neigh
bourhood there are several dolmens.
Rod el-Bdneh (B. 8). — An arid wady, which de
bouches from the north into the Yarmuk, near el-
Hammeh. (Comp. p. 158.)
Er-Ruhineh (E. 4). — A small Circassian village,
north of el-Breikah, with about 40 houses and 1 80 in
habitants. The village has only just originated, but is
regularly constructed in a fertile irrigated region, near
the Rukkid.
Rujum el-'Abdeh (B. 6). — A small volcanic hill,
with some ruins and fig trees in the Batihah. The
copious spring, Ain Musmir, rises at its northern
base. Rujum el-'Abhar (C 7 ' ,. — A large heap of ruins of
weather-worn building stones, covered with Abhar or
lilac. Burckhardt also mentions it, as it lies on the road
from Fik to Khisfin.
Rujum Abu Mashdk (C. 4). — The leaf-stripped hill
near Nu'arin, so called because till a few years ago an
oak visible to the whole district stood here, which was
felled by a sacrilegious hand. Some old building
stones lie near.
Rujum el-Butm (C. 7). — A small hill of ruins, with

THE JAULAN. 231

sheepfolds, consisting of old building stones, not far
from el-Yikusah.
Rujum el-Fdr (D. 7). — An ancient and ruined pile of
rude basalt blocks on the Rukkid, forming the eastern
limit of the district of Fik.
Rujum el-Khiydr (C. 7). — An ancient memorial
(see p. 270), composed of rude basalt blocks.
Er-Rumsaniyeh (D. 4). — A large ruin on the ridge
and slopes of a hill. A quantity of large unhewn and
hewn stones tower one upon another in such great piles
that a plan is not possible. In the west we find a
somewhat isolated building, with circular apses in the
north, shut in south by square foundation walls. A
little nearer the hill, more subterranean chambers are
discovered, roofed with basalt slabs 6 feet long, which
contain crypts like those in Kddana ; near and above
them are shapeless piles of building stones, probably of
the Roman period. On the northern summit of the ex
tended volcanic ridge, running from north to south, rises
a large, ancient, but newly-restored building, whose
plan is illustrated on Fig 117. A large chamber,
divided by pointed arches, 9 feet high, strikes a
smaller one from an opposite direction. The arches
are 27 inches, the enclosing walls 35 inches in thick
ness. The building stones used are throughout
carefully hewn. At the head, certain bits of discon
nected walled-in masonry tell us that the building
was erected in Moslem times from the ruins of the

232

THE JAULAN.

1

Christian buildings. This assumption is supported on
the one side by the existence of pointed arches, on
West TT

10

15 meT.

0 5 Fig. H7-
Ancient Building Restored.
the other by the description of ornaments found on the
old fragments. The first ornaments which strike the
eye, coming from the west, are to be seen over a door
the lintel of which bears three characteristic crosses,
with grapes, and the letters M. and N* (Fig. 118).

Hf

Fig. 119.

Fig. 118.
Ornamentation on Lintels
The lintel on a door to the east (Fig. 119) has two
crosses, and between them a defaced ornament. On
* It is probable that A. should be read in place of N., and
hat M. stands upside down. Thus " Alpha and Omega.''

THE J A ULAN.

233

the ground near the door first-mentioned lies another
ornamented lintel of basalt, with a Greek inscription
(Fig. 120). I
on

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i,!n»

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'Hi "'llfcr -IliiilllilillllKiiil'1!.':  i"'?"'l

.  Nll<kil.liJMP
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 ,1,50 
Fig. 120.
Lintel Stone with ornamental Crosses and Greek Inscriptions.
Inside the building one sees close to an arch stone a
large cross (Fig. 121). On another the festooned

Fig. 121.
Cross Ornament at er-Rumsaniyeh.
ornamentation of Fig. 122, and more remote, placed
-*=  0,70 

Fig. 122.
Ornamentation on Stone.
indeed on the top, the ornamentation of the arch

234

THE J A ULAN.

stones, Fig. 123 and Fig. 124, with palm trees and
rosettes.

o,,o

Fig. 123.
Ornament at er-Rumsaniyeh.

Fig. 124.
Ornament at er-Rumsaniyeh.
Another arch stone, likewise placed on the top,
bears the Greek inscription of Fig. 125 round a palm
tree. Besides which the walls are covered with festooned

THE J A ULAN

235

ornamentations of the same description as that shown
in Fig. 122 ; these, however, are more or less greatly
defaced. So that here there must have been a greater

(.jp-.o^co,

ANT

B A x B \

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T I C €N,

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Fig. 125.
Greek Inscription at er-Rumsaniyeh.
development of art than at any other place in the
Jaulan, with the exception of Fik. The present
building is still overlaid with basalt slabs and corbels,
similar to those in the building mentioned under
Jibin. Towards the east, at the base of the precipitous
hill, there is a natural pool of spring water, the Birket
er-Rumsaniyeh, whilst in the west the Ain er-Rum
saniyeh dispenses abundant and excellent water.
The ruins stretch to these waters, so that they have
a considerable extent. Interesting as they are, their
exact purpose has hitherto remained uncertain.
Er-Ruzaniyeh (C. 4). — A wintervillage, belonging to
the Turkomen, with huts of stone and earth. Only a

236" THE J A ULAN.

few antique remains of building stones are to be
found. An abundant spring, the Ain er-Ruzaniyeh,
rises in the east. The widy, named after the place, is
here less deep, craggy, and rent. It begins near ed-
Delhamiyeh, and is called at first after this name ;
it conveys but little water, and below er-Ruzanlyeh
takes successively the names — Widy Ghadir, en-
Nuhis, Widy ez-Zawitin, and Widy ed-Dalieh. It
is the most important watercourse of the Batihah.
The principal road across the Haurin to er-Rafid
touches the place, which in former times must have
been important.
Saffureh (C. 7, 8). — A crumbled winter village, the
better huts of which are inhabited by from two to six
persons. There is some woody and arable land in
the surrounding country, but few old remains.
Sahel el- Arrdbeh (B. 8). — A region on the margin
of the plateau on the extreme southern tongue of the
Ziwiyeh el-Ghurbiyeh, with a group of magnificent
terebinths. The district of Sheffet- Mobarah touches
it on the east, and extends as far as the ruin Ayun.
Es-Sandbir (B. 4). — A ruin with 15 winter huts,
between the similarly named widy and the Widy el-
Fakhureh. The remains of antiquity are unim
portant. Sell el-Ghdr (D. 7). — A dry widy at Kefr el-Ma,
whose upper part is also called Widy Muakkar.
Sell e/-Hejaf(D. 4). — A small stream, which rises

THE JAULAN. 237

near the Jerkessen village, ej-Jueizeh, and flows past
jer-Rumsaniyeh into the Widy el-Blreh, where, how
ever, it soon dries up. At its discharge into the
Widy el-Yehudiyeh it is called Seil el-Kurdiyeh, a
rocky and deep river bed.
Selukiyeh (D.4). — A ruin on the same named widy,
not far from a spring also similarly named, situated
on a small hill with a number of large unhewn building
stones. The ancient remains, spreading over a large
area, appear literally to have been made level with
the ground, for it is only at the highest point that
one can perhaps distinguish the foundations of a
large square building and some smaller ones. On
the southern bank of the widy extended remains are
also to be found. At the present day only cattle-
folds rise out of the ruins. Although without any
further evidence than that presented by the affinity
of names, I nevertheless believe to have found again
the old Selucia, built during the dominion of the
Selenkiden, according to Josephus ('Jewish Wars,'
ii., 20), a fortified city on the border of Agrippa's
kingdom. It is true that the place of modern
Selukiyeh does not exactly correspond with the
statement of Josephus, that Seleucia lay on the Lake
Semechonitis, whereas in fact by its position the
place is naturally protected.* ('Jewish Wars,' ii., 20.)
* The present Selukiyeh has been already mentioned by
Dr. Thomson, 'The Land and the Book' (1883).

238 THE J A ULAN.

Semakh (B. 8). — A large village on the southern bay
of the Lake of Tiberias, containing 65 huts, which
are mostly built out of clay-bricks made from the
rich soil of the Ghdr to be found at this spot, and
afterwards dried in the sun. The bank of the Lake
rises here by way of exception to a height of 38 feet,
and makes a steep fall. The 330 inhabitants are
mostly immigrants from Algiers ; they speak some
French, and are very affable ; one also meets negroes
from the Soudan. The village, like the country
round the Ghor, is the property of the Sultan ; it is
thereby exempt from taxation, and under a governor,
and, consequently, in a much better condition than
the neighbouring places. The inhabitants cultivate
the tobacco plant, and grow vegetables on a large
scale. Water is yielded by the Lake. In the Menzul
of the Sheikh there are several basalt columns, about
36 inches in length and 12 inches in diameter, which
have been used as props for the rooms. Otherwise
the village, which is lacking in building stone, has
few antiquities. Burckhardt wrongly regarded the
country as Tarichea ('Ritter,' o. 345, seq.). At that
time the village consisted of 40 basalt and clay
huts, and was governed by a subdued Beni Sakhr
Sheikh ; later travellers took it for Hippos.
Serai (D. 7). — A ruin on a hill near Kefr el-Mi. A
large number of old building stones lie piled on one
another, and only a few walls of a modern village are

THE JAULAN. 239

still standing upright. At the foot of the hill, which
rises 25 feet above the ground, a spring rises, sur
rounded by oleanders, whose water flows down over
rock terraces into the Widy Serai, which bounds the
ruin in the south. On the western slope of this widy,
under a beautiful tree, the Shejeret el-Ajameh, the
tomb of a Moslem saint, lies.
Esh Shddf(E. 4) is the name given to the entire
range of the Hami Kursu, although this last name
only designates one peak. Some large well-preserved
dolmens are to be found on the Ris esh-Sha'if,
the most northern height. The slopes are culti
vated in terraces by the Circassian, and thereby
the luxuriant oak thickets are entirely done away
with. Esh-Shdfeh (D. 7). — The region between Hetal and
Khurbet Sihin, on the bank of the Rukkid.
Shdfet Kutta (C. D. 3). — The lava torrent of the Abu
en-Nedi and Tell el-'Uram, a frightfully stony chain of
hills, overgrown with oak underwood.
Shdfet es-Sindidneh (E. 4, 5). — Two hills between
the Tell el-Faras and the Tell el-'Akkisheh. A
dense oak wood must have once stood at the place
of the oak underwood.
Sheffet esh el-Ghordb (C. .D. 7).— The fall of the
plateau by Khirbet el-' Arais. Many ravens (Ghurab)
still fly about and nest in the basalt rocks as in olden
times.

.240 THE JAULAN.

Sheffet Tabak el-Meldweh (D. 7). — A region between
Khirbet el-' Arais and Jibin.
Esh Sheikh Khalil (B. 4). — A Moslem saint's grave,
over-shadowed by a terebinth and an oak. Near by are
the large dolmens already described (see p. 123), of
which there are several similar ones in this district,
especially on the slopes towards the Lake of Huleh.
Shejeret el-'Ameri (not 'Umeri) (D. 6). — A tree
with a Moslem tomb in the Zawiyeh.
Shejeret el-Musterdh (C. 6). — An isolated tree, on
a road beyond the Widy es-Semakh, under which the
native travellers are accustomed to rest.
Shejeret Matallat el-Bahrein (C. 3). — Some trees, in
stony Jaulin, near BMarus, which are well known
to the natives on account of the outlook over both
Lakes in the Jordan valley.
Shejeret Umm Eshsheh (C. 2). — A large fine tere
binth, near Skelt. In the environs of Ard Shejeret
Umm Eshsheh there are traces of an old road, with
large basalt blocks on each side.
Sheridt el-Menddireh (7, 8).— (See p. 38.)
Esh-Shomariyeh (C. 4). — A lowland and a widy,
with a spring near Nuarin.
Esh-Shukeiyif (fl. 6).— A small Bedawin village on
the widy of the same name, containing only a few old
remains. In its upper course the widy is narrow
and rocky, but, in its lower, broad, pleasant and
cultivated.

THE JAULAN. 241

Shuweikeh (C. 4). — A ruin and a few decayed
Bedawin huts, the old site of el-Ahm&diyeh (p. 70).
Es-Sindidneh (C. 4). — A winter village of ten huts,
in the midst of a beautiful woody country, with
some old building stones.
Sirb el-Butm (B. 8). — A district of the plateau above
the Khin el-'Akabeh.
Sirbel el-Khardrib (B. 8). — A district of the plateau
south of Kefr Hirib.
Sitt IskSne (B. 7). — A destroyed hut on the
northern slope of the Widy Fik, near Kiilat el-Husn.
Siyar el-'Arbdin (D. 5). — A large number of cattle
folds on the Widy Bedirus. The same designation
for folds is repeated near the ruins of el-Kuneitrah.
Siyar er-Rashdd (C. 7). — Folds for the Bedawin
pasturing, near Fik, during the winter.
Skek (C. 2). — An important ruin, covering an area of
about 30 acres, and a winter village of the Arab
el-Fadel. In the north one meets with a modern
crumbled building, which was probably a Khin, as
Skek is situated on a principal road. Inside its walls
the Bedawin have built huts. The place has many
cisterns, which are partly filled with water and partly
choked up, and a number of large old building stones,
with foundations from ancient and modern times. A
pool (birkeh) is found in the east, beneath the high-
lying place, and in the north lies the Jobet Skek,
formerly a large tank cut in the lava rocks.
R

242 THE JAULAN

Skufiyeh (C. 7). — A large flourishing village on a
raised point in the western Zawiyeh, which affords a
magnificent view over the lake and the plateau. It com
prises 70 huts, which are built partly of mud and
partly of stone, and 350 inhabitants. The village
divides into an eastern and a western portion, con
forming to the nature of the humpy hill on which it
is built. The neighbourhood is fruitful, but somewhat
lacking in water. In the east we find artificially cut
caves, measuring 13 feet square which are approached
by steps, and arranged as straw magazines ; the walls
are, however, totally blackened. Near the grave
yard, in the south of the village, there are some old
stony foundations of a rectangular building, which is
called el-Kulah, and several choked-up cisterns. On
some stones, rectilinear crosses in relief are to be
found ; and in the back stoves and rooms of the village
a striking number of copper and, to me, unfamiliar
defaced inscriptions, the casts of which were unfor
tunately lost in the Jordan, but will be set up again.
Sueiseh (F. 4, 5). — A village on the Rukkid, from
which the bridge across the Rukkid already mentioned
gets its name. It is reckoned with Jedur, and was not
visited by me. It is said to have been bestowed upon
el-Maghirbeh, Sultan of Morocco, by the Turkish
Sultan, as hereditary and private property.
Summdka (C. 3). — A winter village of the Arab el-
Fadel, consisting of 20 huts, with some trees and old

THE JAULAN. 243

building stones on a small hill. The circumference
of the old site is tolerably large. Some have found
in this the place from which the Huleh lake has
received its name, 'Semechonitis,' from Josephus;
but the distance of this place from the Lake is too
great for this assumption to gain approval. Rather
might ' Semechonitis ' be reconciled with the name
of the springs on the northern foot of the Tell esh-
Shebin, viz., Ain es-Semakh*
Surramdn (D. 3). — Three large Circassian villages,
containing together about 200 buildings, and 900 in
habitants. Near the two south ones there is a large
tank and old masonry. The antiquities have almost
entirely disappeared, that is to say, they have been
used in the walls of the buildings, and white
washed. According to the positive statements of
the natives, who were acquainted with the ground
before the existence of the villages, this was covered
with the remains of a very ancient extended site.
* The above comparison is found, for example, in Dr.
Thomson's 'The Land and the Book,' 1883. The last
consonant in Summaka is obviously not favourable to it. The
tracing back of Sajuuxmi'im, Se/ie^wi/ins to the Arabic Semakh
(fish) is already noticed by Reland, ' Palestine ' 26?, where also
other explanations are to be found. The fact that the Arabic
plant named Summik is sounded by us Sumakh cannot come
into consideration here at all. The Arabic Summak is o-ov^a^
0-ovfj.a^i • Italian, Sommaco ; Spanish, Zumaque ; French,
Sumac. Comp. Low, ' Aramaische Pflanzennamen ' (1881); see
V. Hehn, ' Kultiarpflanzen und Hausthiere.'
R 2

244 THE J A ULAN.

The Bedawin called it Surr el-Mil (Secret of the
Treasure). It was this name, so the officials of el-
Kuneitrah assert, that drew the Circassians hither, who,
indeed, have actually discovered several valuable
finds, which partly explains the large colony and
swift rise of the villages. However, to divert atten
tion from their property, the Circassians have turned
the name into Surramin.
Susiyeh (B. C. 7). — An extensive but completely in
distinguishable ruin, on a small plain east of the Kiilat
el-Husn. Plough and hoe have worked among the
old building stones, and obliterated all remains of
ancient days. In the north, a crescent-shaped ridge,
the Serj Susiyeh, which has probably slipped down
from the southern slopes over the ruins, stretches
along to the Widy Fik. It also bears some ruins.
Susiyeh is probably identical with the Susitha of the
Jerusalem Talmud (Merrill, ' East of the Jordan '),
and consequently with Hippos*
It lies about 1,115 feet above the Lake of Tiberias,
over which one gets an open view from Serj Susiyeh.
Es-Sttwdneh (C. 2, 3). — A stony region near Skek.
Suweihiyah (B. 5). — A few winter huts of the Arab
el-Wesiyeh, with scattered old building stones lying
about. Tdhunet el-Ulleikah (C. 8). — A mill of the most
* With regard to Susitha, comp. ' Newbauer Gdogr. du
Talmud,' p. 238, seq. ; Furrer, in Z. D. V. P., ii. 73 b.

THE J A ULAN. 245

primitive description, on an island in the bed of the
Yarmuk, to which a part of the water power of the
stream is conveyed by means of an aqueduct built in
mortar. A second fallen-in mill lies somewhat more
north-east, in the Widy Keleit. At this place the
river bed is covered with extraordinarily luxuriant
cane jungle.
Tdt Ahsein (C. 4). — The name of a spring in stony
Jaulin, on the via maris.
Tawdfik (B. 8). — A small ruin below the Khin el-
'Akabeh. The small unhewn building stones lie in
heaps on a hill. It is from this ruin that the pro
jection, Ris Tawifik, lying south-west, receives its
name. Telestdn (C. 3).— An inhabited Turkoman village,
with 20 huts well built of stone and IOO inhabitants.
The name is probably Persian, and undoubtedly
marks an old site, near which traces of old roads are
to be found.
Et- Tell (B. 6). — A large winter village of Arab et-
Tellawiyeh, who take their name from this ruin. It
contains 60 carelessly built huts on the north-west
margin of the Batihah. These huts, with extremely
few antique remnants, cover the south-west slope of
a small hill, past the foot of which the spring, Ain
Musmir flows, turning a mill at the Jordan. From
ten to fifteen persons from et-Tell have built huts
round this latter, which they inhabit permanently;

246 THE J A ULAN.

they have also laid out some gardens. At the foot
of et-Tell, on the spring Ain Musmir, stands the
tomb of the Sheikh Abdallah ; it is surrounded by
a great stone circle and overshadowed by bramble
bushes. East of et-Tell rises a volcanic hill, between
which a small wady stretches.
Et-Tell has been frequently connected with Beth-
saida- Julias by Seetzen, Smith, and others.
But this place appears to me to be too far inland
for a fishing village, being \\ miles distant from the
Lake. From this point of view el-Mes'adiyeh has
manifestly more recommendations.. Besides which,
up to the present, there have not by any means been
more ornaments or inscriptions discovered in et-Tell
which would lead to conclusions as to the past of this
place than in el-Mes'adiyeh. In one respect only, et-
Tell favours the widely spread assumption, viz., in its
elevated position commanding the plain. Is it not
possible that el-'Araj marks the fishing village, et-Tell,
on the other hand the princely residence, and that
both places were closely united by the beautiful roads
still visible ?
In this case, if the industry of earlier days had
disappeared ' in the former, the glory and the
splendour of the seat of the Tetrarchs would have
given way to a heap of wretched huts.
Tell Abu el-Ghetdr(D:7).—A lengthy volcanic hill,
extending from north tp south, on the western bank

THE J A ULAN 247

of the Rukkid. Broad steps lead up to its most
eastern point. Above lie large shapeless stones of
ruins which appear to have been ranged in a crescent
round the upper end of the steps. The ruins extend
on every side over several acres of the land, nearly
up to Kefr el-Mi. The Tell was probably either a
watch tower or an ancient place of worship. From
here to the Tell edh-Dhahab, which is about i mile,
and covered with ruins, the whole district is strewn
with scattered building stones, out of which, however,
no coherent plan can be recognised, especially as the
surrounding country is an unusually stony lava
region. The Tell edh-Dhahab is an old site.
Tell Abu ej-faj. (C. 3). — A small lava hill west of
the Tell Abu en-Nedi.
Tell Abu Katif(D. 4).— An isolated hill near the
Circassian village ej-Jueizeh.
Tell Abu el-Khdnzir (D. 4).— (See under Tell Abu
Yusef.) Tell Abu Kubeis(E. 4). — A small lava, hill between
Kddana and the Rukkid.
Tell Abu en-Nedd (D. 3).— ' The dew-endowed hill,'*
* Abu en-Nedi. is not the name of the mountain, but
the name of the saint who is worshipped on the hill. This is
proved without any doubt by the following names lower down
of Wely and Makam Abu en-Neda. See also as regards this
height of Jaulin, Wetzstein, 'Das Batanaische Giebelgebirge '
(1884) 15, and for Tell Abu en-Neda in particular, the remarks
of Wetzstein's in ' Delitzsch Jesaia,' p. 707.

248 THE J A ULAN.

the largest volcano in the Jaulin. Its highest point
rises 4,132 feet above the Mediterranean Sea and 721
feet above the high plateau bordering it. The partially
destroyed crater-belt slopes from south to north, and
has a circumference of 3 miles, of which the upper
crater opening has a width of 1,148 yards from east
to west, and a length of 1,331 yards from north to
south. The crater hollow is cultivated by the
Circassians and is very fruitful. Many volcanic cones
lie therein. The mouth of the crater is 612 feet
deeper than the highest point of the mountain. The
inner slopes of the crater fall in an angle of 340
towards the horizon ; and the slopes of the moun
tain generally in an angle of 220. Powerful burnt-
away fragments of lava project over the crater-belt,
falling below 40° or 320 towards the horizon, eastward,
(Fig. 126). On several basalt fragments, which have

East

Fig. 126.
Crater of Tell Abu en-Nedi.
been used as Bedawin tombs, the leaf impression is
clearly to be seen (Fig. 127). The western and
eastern longitudinal walls of the crater have an

THE JAULAN.

249

exactly parallel profile.* The highest point of the
Tell takes in the large well, or Makam Abu en-
Neda. This is 38 feet long, 21 feet broad, 8 feet

0,50m

Fig. 127.
high, and has two whitewashed cupolas which can
be seen in the whole country. The sepulchre of
the great Moslem saint lies enveloped in silken
cloth in the southern division of the building.
In the afternoon the view from this Makam is
magnificent, but in the morning thick misty clouds
arise from the crater and obscure the whole country
till 10 o'clock in the morning. The people, therefore,
view the height of the Tell with gratefulness, as it
yields them, they believe, the fertilising dew. If it
ceases, the destructive east wind is approaching.
Constant violent winds push down the tree growth
on the heights, which first develops into a fine oak
wood at the southern foot. The ground covered
* With this compare my survey of the Tell Abu en-Nedi in
Dr. Noetling's ' Geologischer Abhandling uberden Dscholan.'

250

THE J A ULAN

by the Tell is of a yellow colour. The lava streams
of the Tell pour forth westwards ; remains of them
are to be found there in the Shafet Kutta, and a
frightfully stony lacerated district
In the south is the small fore-lying volcanic hill,
Abu Rumet
There is also a curious piece of antiquity to be
found on the roof of the Wely Abu en-Nedi, viz.,
the peculiar image, 2 feet 3 inches high, of a bird,
which is fashioned in basalt, and reminds one of
Egyptian or Persian art (Fig. 128). Unfortunately
the head is wanting.

Closely connected with the Abu en-Nedi is the
Tell in the north, called el-' Uram, 'heaps of wheat,'
on account of its shape, whose slopes strike the

THE JAULAN. 251

lowest portion of the crater-belt of the Abu en-Nedi.
Its great oval crater opens more to the west, and is
as characteristic as that of the Tell el-Faras. Its
belt is still fairly preserved, and reaches a height
of 4,042 feet above the Mediterranean Sea, and is
consequently only a little lower than that of the Tell
Abu en-Nedi. Its lava torrent appears to unite
with that of its neighbour in the Shafet Kutta.
Its lowest western slopes are overgrown with oak
underwood (see Fig. 129).

Fig. 129.
Tell Abu en-Nedi and Tell el-Urim, from Kh. 'Ain el-H6r.
Tell Abu Yusef (D. 4).- — A tolerably well preserved
volcano lying south of Tell Abu en-Nedi, 3,375
feet above sea-level, with an oval crater opening
westward. An old crater wall, the Dhahret Jort
el-Hikim lies in front of it eastward.
The double hump-backed Tell Abu el-Khanzir is
less expanded and more destroyed ; its height is
3,819 feet (above sea-level). The lava streams of both
craters are apparently confluent at ed-Delhamiyeh.

252 THE JAULAN.

A splendid oak wood stands at the western foot of
the Abu Khanzir.
Tell Abu ZeitAneh (D. 7). — A hill with the grave of
a Moslem saint beside a tree, north-west of Kefr el-
Ma. In earlier days it must have been planted with
olives, to which the old mill-stones lying about
testify. Many scattered old building stones are
found between the Tell and the place Nib, up to
Khisfin. Tell el-Ahmar (C. 2). — The most imposing of the
mountains enclosing the Merj el-Buk'iti.* Its peak
(4,060 feet) rests on a broad base, and its slopes are
thickly grown with oak undenvood. Its lava torrent
falls in regular terraces from the top to the west and
north. Tell el- Akkdsheh (E.4). — A volcano with a destroyed
crater opening to the west. The slopes are over
grown with oak underwood, and the highest summit
(3,480 feet above sea level) with splendid oaks, which
overshadow the tomb of the much-esteemed Nebi el-
Akkasheh, a nominal brother-in-law of Muhammed.
The Wely has a cupola on a superstructure 15 feet
* With regard to the second half of this name, Schuma
cher wavers between the forms el-Buk'iti and el-Buki'ti.
Wetzstein, 'Das Batanaische Giebelgebirge,' s. 15, writes it
'Tell Bok'ita,' without adding any explanatory observation.
Schumacher's el-Buk'iti would be in agreement if the feminine
form with the termination i, usual in northern Palestine, is
understood.— E. Guthe.

THE JAULAN. 253

square ; the tomb itself is covered with green silk
cloth. An ancient infirm Sheikh watches over the
sacred remains, and served us as a guide-book for
the country. The Circassians bury around the Wely.
On the northern crater girdle an easy much-fre
quented road leads to the large Circassian village
el-Breikeh, lying at the foot of the Tell ; and towards
the west there are traces of old streets leading round
the Tell to ej-Jueizeh and el-Breikeh. The view
from the Tell rewards one. The Shafet el-'Akki-
sheh, in the south, is a portion of the old crater
zone. Tell el-Baiydda (C. 1). — A mountain near Mejdel
esh-Shems. Tell el-Bar am (D. 3). — A small characteristic volcano
of circular form north of Tell el-'Urim. Its crater
is fairly well preserved ; oaks grow on its slopes.
Tell Bdzuk (C. D. 6). — An isolated hill above the
debouch of the Widy Tell Bizuk into the Joramiyeh,
the slope and peak of which are covered with dolmens,
The Widy Tell Bizuk falls in vast high terraces
from the plateau to the Joramayeh. The precipitous
walls of the gorge consist in part of column-shape
basalt, which is continually hurled down and carried
along as boulders. On the other hand, the river bed
and lower walls, as much as 131 feet high, consist of
limestone mixed with earthy substances. In summer
a brook trickles down over the high precipices ; it is,

254 THE JAULAN.

however, dispersed on the rocks. It is said that in
winter an imposing waterfall may be seen here.
Tell ed-Dara'iyeh (D. 5). — A portion of the crater
wall of the el-Kuleiah.
Tell edh-Dhahab (D. 6). — (See under Tell Abu el-
Ghetir.) Tell el-Emhir (E. 5). — (See under Tellul el-Asbah.)
Tell el-Faras (E. 5). — One of the most peculiar vol
canoes of Jaulin, and which, as an isolated mountain,
visible from a far distance, has been already frequently
mentioned by travellers. Its highest point in the south
east reaches a height of 3,110 feet (above sea level,
and 787 feet above the surrounding plain), and on
this top is the unadorned Moslem tomb, the Makim
en-Neby Hasan ej-Jezzar, and a graveyard belonging
to the Bedawin. The oval crater of the Tell which
is still very distinctly preserved, opens towards the
north. Between the Makim and the mouth of the
crater the depth amounts to 108 feet. This latter
has an opening of 1 8 feet by a depth of several feet ;
the natives call it Mughirah (cave), and often dig
there for supposed treasure. The crater walls fall
regularly at an angle of 170 to 32°. The outer walls
of the Tel), on the other hand, fall first steeply and
then at an angle of 200 and 21° Round the lowest
part of the crater belt, especially in the north, there
are distinct traces of a wall 3 feet in breadth, which
may be followed in a circle for a length of about 525

THE JAULAN. 25c

feet, and perhaps served once as a protection to this
lowest part. Or was the cauldron of the crater once
used as a water reservoir (with the superstructure of
the lower part) for the surrounding country ? The
slopes of the Tell are covered with lava slag ; the
ground is reddish-yellow. In the south there is a.
gentle hill ; in the north-west a rocky crater wall lies
before the Tell. The groups of small Tellul el-
Mallul (2,965 feet) have probably arisen through its
lava torrent flowing northward ; their clayey, greasy,
yellow soil is noticeably different from that of the
Tellul el-Humr, and their slopes are overgrown with
oak underwood (Mallul).
Tell el-Hdweh (C. 7). — Also called Tell el-Ferdiweh,
an isolated hill on the debouch of the Rukkid into the
Yarmuk. It is covered with, ruins. Walls of unhewn
stones without mortar crown the summit; conse
quently the Tell was well fortified, and defended the
entrance to both of the large river valleys.
Tell Kriim et- Turkoma7i (D. 2). — The most northerly
of the Tellul el-Buki'ti, 4,028 feet high (above sea
level), and somewhat wooded. Its northern fissured
and lacerated slopes fall towards the Birket Ram, and
are covered with lava slag. The name recalls the
first colonization of the Turkoman in this region.
Tell el-Mu'akkar (D. 6).— An isolated hill of the
Zawiyeh east of the ruin el-Kuneitrah. Two wadies
called after it begin at its southern foot — one joins

256 THE J A ULAN.

with the Wady esh-Shebib ; the other, known also as
Seil el- Ghor, joins with the Rukkid.
Tell el-Muntar (C. 6). — The hill of the watch-tower
in the Zawiyeh, north of Kusr Berdawil, with a broad
basis, on whose peak we find ruins to which a tower
must have belonged. On the plain near are dolmens
and old building stones.
Tell esh-Sha'ir (B. 5). — A broad hill falling towards
the Batihah ; it is somewhat cultivated.
Tell esh-Shebdn (C.3). — An isolated mountain, with
a demolished crater and oak trees, in the west of
Jaulin. Its peak (3,021 feet above sea level) is
crowned by the fallen-in square, Wely esh-Sheban,
the tomb of a Moslem saint. A few yards north the
Arab el-Fadel have buried those who fell in battle
against the Circassians, under a white plastered tomb,
visible from a far distance. A large, extremely deep,
round cistern is found near the Wely ; it holds rain
water, and, like the Wely, must be very old. The
slopes of the Tell are covered with lava slag and
yellow soil ; the surrounding country is extraordinarily
stony. Tell esh-Sheiklmh (D. 2). — Certainly the highest of
all the volcanoes, its apex lying 4,245 feet above the
Mediterranean Sea; it is, however, the least cha
racteristic of them. It is the " southern spur of the
Tellul Buki'ti. Opposite the powerful Jebel esh-
Sheikh (Mount Hermon) it receives, as the slighter

THE JAULAN. 257

elevation, the name Tell esh-Sheikhah (' Mountain of
the Old Woman').
Tell es-Sikkeh (D. 6). — A large volcanic hill north
east of Khisfin, with ruins like those at Tell edh-
Dhahab. Tell et-Taldyd (D. 5). — A long extended rocky hill
west of Tell el-Faras. Some trees and the Wely el-
Taliya stand on its ridge (2,608 feet).
Tell el-Urdm (D. 3). — (See under Tell Abu en-
Nedi). Tell Zahmul (B. 3). — A hill overgrown with trees
on the Lake of Huleh.
Tell Zdkiyeh (C. 7). — A hill covered with ruins west
of el-'Al. The large stones are mostly unhewn ; some
show hollows for the pivots of Haurin stone doors.
At the foot of the hill there is an old basalt oil
press-stone, 6\ feet in diameter.
Tell ez-Zdtar (D. 3). — A hill peak on the western
slopes of Jaulin.
Tellul el-Asbah (E. 5). — Volcanic little hills near
Tell el-Faras, with traces of ruins on their summits.
The neighbouring Tell el-Emhir is of the same nature
but without ruins. The Seil el-Emhir is a rocky-
fissured river bed between this Tell and the foot of
the Tellul el-Humr, which in winter conveys water to
the Rukkid.
Tellul el-Humr (E. 4, 5). — Two well-marked craters
near the Tell el-Faras. The western reaches a height of
s

258 THE JA ULAN.

^5,3 19 feet, whilst the more easterly and wider is only
3,076 feet above the level of the sea. The slopes are
covered with red soil, from which they get their
name. Both craters open south, and are pretty well
destroyed. The torrent of the eastern extends to the
Rukkid ; that of the western in an indistinct south
western direction.
Tellul es-S'dlib (properly et- T'dlib, 'Foxhill') (B. 8).
— A long low range of hills stretching from north to
south, near the shore of the Lake of Tiberias, which
is separated from the slopes of the Jaulin by the
district Ben et-Tellul. On its highest peak, which
lies 305 feet above the level of the Sea of Galilee, or
377 feet below the Mediterranean Sea, we find a
stone circle 22 feet in diameter, composed of rude
blocks of basalt, towards the north, and round one
terrace lower, a second larger one, 39 feet in diameter.
The highest and most beautiful peak is called by the
people Rujm et-Tell, and may have served as a signal
point between the fort ed-Duer and Tiberias. Con
tinuing from here along the western margin of the
hill down to es-Samra, one perceives along it a
foundation 3 feet strong, with diagonal walls attach
ing, which are constructed of basalt blocks without
mortar, and probably served as a protection to the
small plateau of this hill, likewise occupied by square
ruins. Presumably, therefore, there is an old site on
Tellul es-S'ilib.

THE J A ULAN 259

Tlel (C. 8). — A ruin with destroyed winter huts on
the western slopes of the Widy Masaud.
Et-Tu'enni (C. 7). — Some winter huts, with a good
spring, Ain es-Sidr or Ain et-Tu'enni. On the upper
southern margin of the Widy es-Semakh, old build
ing stones are to be found.
El- Ulleika (C. 4). — A winter village of the Turko
man, consisting of ten huts. It is situated on the Widy
el-Ulleika, which is here only 25 to 40 feet deeper
than the surrounding country ; but as the Widy
Dabura soon grows deeper and more rocky, only a
few old remains are extant. The district is so plenti
fully provided with water that in the west the village
is surrounded by a great accumulation of running
water, which • it is not advisable to ride through.
Fields of Italian corn, thereby irrigated, yield a good
crop. Opposite the village, on the other side of the
valley, on the vii maris, lies the beautifully built
cupola kind of Wely of the Sheikh Marzuk. The
whitewashed building serves as a land-mark for a
long distance. The tomb is supposed to contain the
remains of the Saint and some of his relatives ; close
by is a graveyard.
Umm el-'Ajaj (B. 5). — A small ruin on the slopes
of the Batihah, near which the Wely Umm el-'Ajaj
stands. Umm ed-Dandnir (D. 5).— District and hill near
ed-Danuriyeh. S 2

260

THE J A ULAN.

Umm el-Gheiyar (C. 3). — A winter village of the
Turkoman, containing eight wretched huts, with few
traces of building. The Bir el-Umm Gheiyar, a mo
derate sized spring, lies somewhat west of the village.
Umm el-fehiyeh (C.7). — A village south of the Widy
es-Semakh, on the spring of the same name, which in
winter propels an extremely primitive mill. There
are a few old building remains.
Umm el-Kandtir (C. 6).— An important ruin on the
eastern slopes of the W idy esh-Shebib. It lies on a
level plain or terrace, a little below the high plateau,
consequently on a protected place, as well as one of
ambush. In the south, a powerful spring flows out of
the rock ; it has a trough-like enclosure, and is walled
over by two arches, 16 feet high (Figs. 130 and 131).

Fig. 130.
Fountain at Umm el-Kanitir.

The masonry of the spring extended to the lava

THE JAULAN.

26F

plateau lying above ; but has fallen in in the west,
where it apparently joined further masonry. It
consists of powerful blocks of basalt, having a length

Fig. 131-
Plan of Fountain.
of 6 \ feet by a thickness of 19 inches, and a height
of 15 inches, which are carefully hewn and jointed,
apparently without mortar. The archstones of the
spring are arranged in the way shown on Fig. 132.

Fig. 132.
Portion of Arch.

The joints are only about one-fifth of an inch wide.
Under one of the arches there lies an inscription
tablet, whose signs arc, however, entirely obliterated.
Near here I dug a lion ornament out of the ground

262

THE J A ULAN.

(Fig. 133). Stepping northward over the source of
the spring, at a distance of 1 10 yards away, we come
upon a pile of ruins roofed with extraordinarily large

OAO

Fig. 133
basalt slabs, and probably graves might be found
underneath. It was here that the eagle ornament,
represented in Fig. 1 34, lay. Then we reach a large

Fig. 134-
rectangular building, 48 feet square, where carefully
hewn stones lie in gigantic piles upon one another,
concealing the bottom of the building ; it is
believed that a stair running round the inner
room can be distinguished. Probably it was sur
rounded by a piazza similar to that found in ed-

THE J A ULAN.

263

Dikkeh ; the many fragments of basalt columns,
having a diameter of 19 inches, which lie round
beneath the ruins, incline one to this view. The en
trance of the building (Fig. 135, a) is 6 feet wide.

Fig. I3S-
The courses and compilation of the stones near are
and illustrated by Fig. 135. The joint lines are broken,
the joints themselves are one-tenth of an inch wide,
and mortarless ; the slabs used are of a quite unusual
size, namely, 4 feet long by 23 inches in height, and
3 feet in thickness, the latter corresponding to the
entire strength of the wall. The niche (Fig. 136) is

Fig. 136.
characteristic, also the base of a half column (Fig.

264

THE JAULAN.

137), and, further, a curiously formed large stone

o^am -ji-o,i7m.»
Fig. 137.

(Fig. 138), and the ornaments of Figs. 139 to 141.

Fig. 138.

Fig- 139

THE JAULAN. 265

0,fS

Fig. 140. Fig. 141.
As this ruin, so rich in profiles, is, however, lack
ing in any inscription, it is difficult to determine
the period of architecture. Its original name is evi
dently lost, because Umm el-Kanitir only signifies
' Rich in arches.'
Umm el-Mutdbin (C. 7). — Destroyed Bedawin huts,
with old building stones in Widy Semakh.
Wddy Abu Hamddah and Wady Abud (C. 7) are
rocky side valleys of the Wady Fik.
Wddy el-'Ajam (D. E. 2). — The district bounding
the Jaulin on the north, a portion of Jedur.
Wddy Barbdrah (B. C. 7). — The western, and Widy
es-Sahun, the eastern branch of the pleasant Widy
Masaud. Wddy el-Barbutiyeh (B. 6). — The name by which the
fishermen indicate the debouch of the Widy esh-
Shukeiyif into the Lake of Tiberias ; it is crowded
with fish.
WddyBatdh (C. 7, 8). — A deep narrow valley below
Dabbuseh, which unites with the Yirmuk.
Wddy el-Haldwa (C. 3). — The upper part of the

THE JAULAN.

Widy et-Tawihin, on the plain of Huleh. It begins
on the Ard el-Bilua, but soon, however, dries up.
Wddy el-Hamd (B. 3). — Called higher up Widy
Hafar. It absorbs the abundant Ain el-Tineh, and
flows into the Lake of Huleh.
Wddy Keleit (C. D. 8).— A large Widy of Ajlun.
Wddy el-Kibleh (C. 2). — South of Za'dra, leading
down to the Huleh marshes.
Wddy Neskhib (B. C. 6). — A broad partly cultivated
hollow in the plateau above the Batihah, which in
winter is flooded.
Wddy er-Rlh (B. C. 3). — A rocky and very fissured
valley, which leads down the slopes near er-Riwiyeh
into the Huleh plain.
Wddy es-Sajfdh, Wddy ed-Ddlieh (B. 5, 6), and Wddy
es-Sendm are the three most important water-channels
of northern Batihah, which, like the eastern Widy
Joramayeh flood the plain in winter, but in summer
are more or less dried up.
Wddy es-Samdr (C. 8). — A steep rocky widy near
Ayun, conveying some water, and discharging in the
Widy Masaud.
Wddy Seisabdn (A. 8). — The upper part of the
Gh6r and the Jordan, near the Lake of Tiberias.
Wddy es-Semakh (C. 6). — A valley* whose importance
* Ritter (' Erdkunde' xv., 1,287), according to De Bertou, states
" Widy es-Semak is a long valley which perforates the whole
system of chalk-mountains on the east coast separating it from

V I EW

THE J A ULAN. 267

for Jaulin has already been mentioned, and correctly
recognised by Seetzen and DeBertou (1839); and is,
indeed, of priceless significance for a plan of railway
and carriage roads. No other valley of the upper
Jordan land is suitable for this in an equal degree,
for all the others are either narrower, or have a too
precipitous crossing up the plateau.
The size or breadth of the Widy es-Semakh
amounts to 1^ miles. The outer margin of the valley
sides is encrusted with basalt lava, whilst chalky
slopes, especially in the south of the river bed itself,
fall quite gradually. A small stream gushes over the
valley bottom, which likewise consists of soft white
chalk rocks.
The length of the principal valley from the mouth
upwards is 4 miles. Then it contracts and divides
into two arms, the northern Widy esh-Shebib
and the southern Widy ed-Difleh, with the Widy
el 'Al. Both arms commence a little way from the
Tell Mu'akkar, and are precipitous and rocky, like all
other valleys of the Jaulin. In the principal valley,
which for civilising enterprises alone comes into con
sideration, there are many ruined places to be found,
a proof that the worth of this valley was already in
the Jaulin and the Haurin. The Arabs name this cutting
the road of Haurin (Derb Hauran). Wady es-Samak in a
future civilisation of this tract of country will be the most
important unloading place for Haurin."

268 THE J A ULAN.

earlier days recognised and turned to account. On
the southern slopes there is water, and to spare, and
the ground is very productive. Single oaks, bramble,
and other underwood, show that that wood growth
was at one period not lacking (see view of Widy
es-Semakh, from el-Awanish).
Wddy es-Serir and Wddy es-Seris (C. 6, 7). — Small
water channels on the southern slopes' of the Widy
es-Semakh. Wddy esh-Sheikh-Ibrahim (C. 5). — It begins near
the group of trees of the Wely esh-Sheikh-Ibrahim not
far from Wahshara, and flows as the Widy es-Selba
into the Wady Yehudiyeh. Its volume of water is
not inconsiderable.
Wddy el- Washdsha (C. D. 4). — Further up Sei l'Ain
Eshsheh, a frightfully fissured and wild valley, which
joins with the Widy er-Ruzaniyeh.
Wakkds (C. 8). — A small ruin with some Bedawin
huts on a hill in Widy Masaud. This name also recalls
the Wakusa mountains occasionally mentioned in
the battle on the Yarmuk.
Washarah (C. 5). — A winter village of the Bedawin,
with some ruins on a widy of the same name.
Wdsit (C. 3). — A shapeless ruin on the stony lava
district of Tell el-Urim, near to which is a spring.
Wely fdfer (C. 7). — The tomb of the wood saint of
Fik, with a beautiful terebinth.
El- Ydkusah (C. 7). — A village consisting of 26 huts,

THE J A ULAN. 269

of which two in the south, built of stone and clay, are
of remarkable size, and contain 120 inhabitants. On
both sides the Wady es-Sahun rises, being the upper
rocky portion of the Widy Masaud. The banks of
the widy are rugged, the bed falls in terraces to a
considerable depth, but widens below and gets
pleasanter.* Some pomegranate trees adorn the
village, which has otherwise a miserable appearance.
The neighbourhood of el-Yikusah presents an un
usual number of round and rectangular stone piles a
few feet high, and enclosed by large unhewn blocks
of rocks. The enclosed circle or square has a
diameter of 6 to 10 feet and contains either a heap
of carefully erected stones or is quite empty. In the
last case we have probably remains of Bedawin
graves; on the other hand, in the former we are
more reminded of the cromlechs or dolmen, although
the characteristic basalt slabs and terrace formation
are wanting here. Their design is most like the dol
mens at Sheikh Khalet (see under Dolmens).
One of the most marked of these memorials is the
* Flugel, in his ' History of the Arabians,' p. 108, speaks on
the occasion of the battle on the Yarmuk of " a valley sloping
towards it which with its hill Wikusa form a gorge" into
which the Byzantines were driven and lost. Probably this
name is identical with the modern el- Yakusa, from which it
differs only in the change of the initial letter. Then the valley
would earlier have borne the name of the place Yakusa for all
the channels of the rivers, almost without exception, even down
to the present day, receive the name of the place they touch.

270 THE J A ULAN.

Rujum el-Khiyar, south of el-Yakusah, close to its
steep fall into the Yarmuk. The enclosing blocks of
stone, reaching a cubic metre in size, are well filled
up. The interior of the circle, which is 6\ feet high
and 12 feet in diameter, is entirely filled up with
large and small stones. Neither mortar nor any
packing is to be discovered ; the joins of the masonry
are distant and irregular, without, however, any detri
ment to the solidity of the structure. These stone
heaps are generally erected on dominating points of
the high plateau.
El-Yehudiyeh (C. 5). — A large ruin on the Widy
el-Yehudiyeh. On the north end two large newly-built
corn magazines stand, which are only used during the
harvest. The ruin lies on a narrow ridge, scarcely
220 yards wide, whose eastern slope is bounded by
the depth of the perpendicular basalt rocks of the
widy of the same name, whilst its western flank is
bounded by a hollow, at its discharge into the Widy
.el-Yehudiyeh, but equally steep. The ridge runs
over the junction of the two valleys to an acute
triangle, upon the sharp edges T3f which a strong
wall or tower, whose direction can be traced with but
few interruptions round the entire ruin. These stones
are rude and fitted together without mortar and form
powerful walls, 6 feet in thickness, on the less pro
tected western side, in contradistinction to walls
of slight thickness on the side which is inaccessible

THE J A ULAN.

271

by nature. In the north the mountain ridge widens
to a plateau, upon which there are indistinct traces
of the kind described, whereas remains of former
buildings on a square plan are still to be found. The
chamber enclosed by the wall is covered with ruins
of all kinds ; most of all one sees large hewn basalt
building stones, lying in heaps near greatly weather
worn shafts of columns. Besides these, most peculiar
capitals (Figs. 142 and 143) are to be found, which

Fig. 142.
Capital at el-Yehudiyeh.

Fig. 143-
Section of Capital.

exhibit a very primitive application of the combined
Ionic and Corinthian styles. These are already very
weather-worn, and like the other ruins point to a great
age. Near the column remains two well preserved top
stones lie ; they are of the same shape and still in
their original position, opposite one another (Fig. 144).
If the ruins on the surface are not important, they at

272 THE JA ULAN.

any rate exhibit characteristic construction and pecu
liar forms found nowhere else in the Jaulin. Exca
vations will certainly bring to light more important
discoveries, and by this means yield information as to

Fig. 144.
Top-stone at el-Yehudiyeh.
whether el-Yehudiyeh, its name and tradition, are of
Jewish origin or not. I was unfortunately unable to
examine the inner of the two corn magazines, as the
openings were barricaded. According to the state
ments of the natives, inscriptions were found below
the ruins, but no one could tell me where these were
lost. Zakiyeh (B. 6). — The name of the bay indenting
into the Batihah ; the water is uncommonly slimy and
dirty. Za'dra (C. 2). — A well built Nusairier village in the
northern extremity of the Jaulin, making a cresent
round the fall of the slope. It comprises 65 huts with
about 3 50 persons, who consequently live close together.
They cultivate the Huleh marshes with rice, and the
country round the village with famous tobacco. The

THE JA ULAN. 273

roofs of the houses bear huts made of branches or
poles. The village itself has no living water, but several
old cisterns. The Sheikh is supposed to have discovered
an old aqueduct at the slope, where in winter a
small stream gushes forth. The old building stones
lying round do not, however, afford any certain con
firmation of this assertion. The nearest spring is
Ain Fit. To the east a huge old terebinth stands
shading a decayed Moslem tomb, called el-'Adjami.
Otherwise, Za'6ra possesses very few remains of
antiquity. Ez-Zdrura (C. 3). — A rocky district and a Bedawin
graveyard near er-Riwiyeh, with a Zarur bush
(white thorn) the last remnant of a large thicket.
Zeita (C. 6). — A small Bedawin village with some
ruins, in the neighbourhood of the Widy Joramiyeh.
Zor en-Nis, Z6r Ramadan, Zor Abu Kubzeh* (C. 8),
or Zbr er-Riyds (D. 7) are collections of rock projec
tions with small basalt terraces on the Yarmuk.
* Zor en Nis, Z6r Ramadan, or Zor Abu Kubzeh.

INDEX TO THE NAMES.

Those marked with a *, not written on map.
The letter and figures, C 5, etc., after each name, refers to the position on the
map.

Transliteration.

Arabic.

Translation.

Page.

Abu Ahjir

j^\j\

Stony

65

Abu Kebir

j^jS y\

66

Abu Rumet

Ll^J^c , ».M

69

el 'Adeseh

<uuja*J|

The Small Lentil

146

el 'Adjami

C2
el Ahmediyeh
ijja^m
70
el Ahs£niyeh
'J-IxX^u^sJl
f 73
175
'Ain el 'Akabeh
<uJUll ^x.
Spring of the Pass or
Deep ascent
182
'Ain 'Akel
J^ 0^
79
Ain el 'Arais
¦j^\jXi\ u^s-
Spring of the Bride
/ 80
U87
'Ain el 'Asal
J*u*!l ^^C
Honey Spring
75
'Ain et Bibi
ajljj ^xc
79
'Ain el Bilua
yM uf
Spring of the Preci
pice
94
T 2
276

INDEX TO THE NAMES.

Transliteration.

Arabic.

Translation.

Page.

'Ain el Basileh

1\^\

c^

75

'Ain el Batrah

c5
'Ain el Beidah
*UjoJ!
C^
The White Spring
36
'Ain el Belat
'Ain el Bireh
'Ain Bu'esteh
Spring of the Rock
Plateau
75
no 79
'Ain Bulus
U^j!
c^
Paul's Fountain
152
'Ain ed Dora
'Ain ed Durdira
tj\ti\t^\
The Elm Spring
131 75
'Ain Enjisa
'Ain Esfera
'Ain 'Eshsheh
Pear Tree Spring
The Nest Spring
135 76
76
'Ain el Fikhureh
w^yi-Ull
c^
The Potter's Spring
76
'Aih es Fejjeh (2)
'Ain el Fejrah
187 76
'Ain Fit
Li-^-lJ
^
76
'Ain el Ghazil
Jtjii
c^
Gazelle Spring
77
'Ain el Ghazileh
Z\yi\
u***
jj ri
77
'Ain el Hijal
'Ain el Hajira
'Ain el Hamri
Spring of the Par
tridge
Stone Fountain
Red Spring
777777
'Ain Jibin
78
'Ain el Kahwa
«j$*!l
tt***
The Coffee Spring
82
INDEX TO THE NAMES.

277

Transliteration . *

Arabic.

Translation.

Page.

'Ain el Katreineh

iil^Li^ {jX£.

78

'Ain el Khurj

^j=^ U+*

The Saddle Bag
Spring

78

'Ain Kddana

AJJkji l:r^

190

'Ain el Kruh

_ z>S*] ^

Spring of Ulcers

78

'Ain el Kuhleh

aIj^sXII ^^

Spring of the Horse
of the Kuhleh

80

'Ain el Mahyub

<-r»^M^^ U^

78

'Ain el Malek

d£!LM ^^XC

Spring of the Lord
of the Manor

79

'Ain el Marshud

^y^j^>\ ijJS.

79
'Ain e Medjam
'Ain el Melekeh
79
'Ain el Mu'allakah
<L&Lt*l\ ^jj^c
79
'Ain el Mudowarah
'i.jiX^\ ^xc
The Round Spring
191
*'Ain Mukatyeh
<Uj!xe jjJ^C-
191
'Ain el Mukhfy
D3
'Ain Musmir
Xamj^C (jt^-
The Nail Spring
79
'Ain Nib
<__)li li}J^C
The Tooth Spring ?
223
*'Ain en Nahleh
il»cu\ ljJ^
The Palm Fountain
79
'Ain en Niswin
^Ij^uJJl j^J^C
The Women's Spring
80
'Ain er Rafid
^J\ c^
226
'Ain er Rijil
JW^ v)**
The Men's Spring
80
'Ain er Rumsaniyeh
(DLUu^JI ,jJ^C
235
*'Ain er Ruzaniyeh
"<"• It
236
278

INDEX TO THE NAMES.

Transliteration.

Arabic.

Translation.

Page

'Ain. Said

<A*«J y^S.

80

'Ain Sa'id el Far

jliJI J>jt-) ^j^c

80

'Ain es Sanibir

jj\J^J\ ,jx

Spring of the Pine
Trees

236

'Ain Selukiyeh

.237
'Ain es Semakh
The Fish Spring
80
'Ain esh Sheikh Musi
L5*~>* i^^ &**
Spring of the Sheikh
Moses
96
'Ain esSidr(esSidreh)
(ir^JuJI) jJuJ! ^j^
80
'Ain es Simsim
'Ain Tabak Jerjeh
'Ain et Tarij
'Ain et Tineh
&)& uf
Spring of the Terrace
of George
Spring of the Figs
80
80
80
81
'Ain Umm el Lejjah
iyill J lj:ys.
79
'Ain Umm Mukhshabi
'Ain Umm 'Otmin
81
81
'Ain Wurdeh
el'Al
Sl3J) U^
JW1
Rose Spring
8181
'Alili ed Duer
el 'Amudiyeh
Upper Chamber of
thelittle Monastery
160 85
'Arab ed Diab
w-jUjJI S-r^c
86
'Arab el Ekseirin
'Arab el Fadel
8686
'Arab Segur el Ghor
jjil'jlitf (_«
216
INDEX TO THE NAMES.

279

Transliteration.

Arabic.

Translation.

Page.

'Arab el Huwij
'Arab ej Jeitin
'Arab el Kefarit

^ty^\ <-r>j£

169 87 88

'Arab el Menidireh
'Arab el Mukhaibeh

J 88
\D7 88

'Arab en Nearneh
Arab en Nuem (el
Yusef)

89 89
'Arab er Rekebit
C1>Ia-Oj1! <-r*/-c
90
'Arab es Sebirdjah
'Arab es Siyid
ai^-.ljuJl l-rirz
135 9i
'Arab et Tellawiyeh
iijlil! (-rirz
9i
'Arab Turkoman
Teljeh
o^J (jU^j <-r>j£-
91
'Arab el Wesiyeh
el 'Araj
'Arik el Ah mar
Red Height
929393
*'Arik el 'Arribeh
h\y&\ j\j*
Height (Edge) of the
Godmother (Sch.)
93
'Arik Abu Jedeiyeh
'Arak Rakikiya
Ard el 'Ali
U\ J>j\
Country of the
Heights
93
229 94
Ard el Bilua
iLcjlUll fjo,\
Land of the Precipice
94
Ard el Ekhdeiyil
Jj<^J1 ^J>J\
95
280

INDEX TO THE NAMES.

Transliteration.

Arabic.

Translation.

Ard Umm Eshsheh
Ard el Huleh
*Ard er Rumineh
el 'Aret
'Arkub et Tiniyeh
el 'Aseliyeh
el 'Awanish
el 'Aweinit
'Ayun'Ayun 'Elmin
'Ayun el Fahm
'Ayun Mukhladi
Ayun Sihin
'Ayun es Suwin
'Ayun Tawirik Hetal
'Ayun et T6m
'Ayun Yusef
Ayun ez Za.6ra
el Azariyeh
Bib et Tumm
Baheiret el Huleh
Bahr Tubariya
el Batihah

&jm&

r w

u°f

iU^»

uy^

J^>- Jj^ Ujf
(^0 JJJ! mL

LsiklJl

Country of Huleh
Country of the Pome
granate Bush

Place where Honey
is yielded

The Little Springs
Springs
The Charcoal Springs

Darrel Springs
The Garlic Springs
The Springs of Joseph

Gate of the Mouth

Marsh Land

INDEX TO THE NAMES.

Transliteration.

B&larus
Ben et Tellul
Bir el 'Abd
Bir el 'Ajam
Bir ej Jekiim
Bir el Kabak
Bir et Truh
Bir el Umm Gheiyar
el Bireh
el Birkeh
Birket el Ekfeir
Birket ej Jarab
Birket Karahta
Birket Nib
Birket Rim (Rin)
Birket er Rumsaniyeh
Birket Surramin (Surr
el Mil)
Breikah
el Breikah

Arabic.

iSxuj^cj\ <iSji

Translation.

Country between the
Hills
Well of the Blacks
(slaves)
Well of the Persians
(strangers)

Well of the Kitchen
Boards

The Pond. The
Water Reservoir
Pond of the little
Beehive
Pond of the Scab

Pond of er Rum
saniyeh

Page.

iXj^jJi I The Small Pond

107
109
193
109
109109
109
260
D5
C3/2 no
no169
223 no
235
243 H5
"3

282

INDEX TO THE NAMES.

Transliteration.

Arabic.

Translation.

Page.

el Buk'iti

£clL>J\

115

el Butmiyeh

aLuiajJI

Place where Tere
binths are found

"5

Dabbuseh

<t-o»J J

143

Dabura

b^

117

ed Dajjajiyeh

£k>-U-jJ!

118
ed Dann
'u>*\
118
Dannikleh
J£j
118
ed Danuriyeh (or
Tanuriyeh)
(XJjjJulO U^UujJI
118
ed Delweh
SjU,
The Pail
119
Deir 'Aziz
jtjtjl*
118
Deir es Biah
cUjJ\ ^Jj
Monastery of the
Wild Beasts
119
Deir er Rihib
i^b\J\ ji^
Friary
119
Deir es Saris
(jwLjuuJI Jj
119
ed Delhamiyeh
<BUg!jJl
119
*ed Dhahr
">»
The Ridge
119
*Dhahr el Ahmir
j\^i\jj^
The Little Donkey's
Back
120
*Dhahret Jort el
Hikim
*£UaS! 'ijfr Ir^
The Mountain Ridge
of the Quarry of
the Commander
251
Dhahret Umm 'Assif
I  sLLc J i^_ilr
120
Dibbia
dJjue
120
ed Dikkeh
ijji
120
INDEX TO THE NAMES.

283

Transliteration.

Arabic.

Translation.

Page.

Dolmens

(123- L 13°

Dom

130
ed D6ra
ijjjJl
The Circle ?
130
ed Duer
J.^
The Little Monastery
131
Duer el Loz
jj^J.^
Almond Convent
133
Duerbin
u^iy
133
Duket Kefr'Akib
1  Jilc- y£ aHjlS
133
el Ebkuriyeh
IJ^jJ!
133
el Ekseir
-Jwsiill
The Little Castle
i34
Elmin
l~^ytXC
i34
Enghib
l_^AxJ
i34
Enjisa
ZAsf
Pear Tree ?
'35
Esbitteh
<U~X»J
i35
el Eshsheh
a1«1!
The Nest
i35
el Fijer
j^m
136
el Fakireh
LjJuil
The Poor, the Sacred
(Tree)
16
es Feiyit
C-AXLJl
The small Rocks
136
*es Fejjeh
<t=CU_>
187
el Ferj
^
136
Ferj Awinish
Fik
97
{136 I146
el Fizira
*,]^N
146
Fresh el L6z
j^l\ u^ji
146
INDEX TO THE NAMES.

Transliteration.

Arabic.

Translation.

Furun

uj

Oven for Baking

Ghadir el Bustin

IjLuujJ] JiXi

Garden Pond

Ghadir ej Jamus

(juwLelJl ->i\c

Buffalo Pond

Ghadir en Nuhis

(jwLsLll -liXc

Copper Pond

el Ghadiriyeh

aLJ^jJkil]

el Ghor

">

The Lowland

Hafar
Himi Kursu

*Himi Sakhar
el Hammim

The Bath
el Hammeh
el Hammeh
-w^l
Hammet er Rih
*rj\ <UJL
Hammet Selim
Harf
Hisil Muhammed
Said Pasha
Lib
Edge Corn Magazine of
M.S.P.
Hiwa
ijp-
el Hiwiyin
Hetal
el Hoshaba
el Hutiyeh
ixJjailt
Of the Hut Fish
Inkheli (Umm Kheli)
(<3j^- *0 <&j^
Jimat el 'Umeri
u^ixll <U^il?-
INDEX TO THE NAMES.

285

Transliteration.

Arabic.

Translation.

Page.

Jamleh

<£L^-

161

Jebib en Nana.

J_AJtjOI t__>L\£=-

Peppermint Bush

161

Jebiti el Khashab

L-^iusv!! Vi'ljkSf

161

Jebel 'Ain en Nimr

-4JJ1 ^y^Z, J-Wf"

The Panther-spring
Mountain

161

•Jebel'AinesSakhneh

iAri-UJl of- (J-^*"

161

Jebel Akta Sharideh

t-S^jJ* cUas\ Jjl^

162
Jebel 'Ayun
B8
Jebel Jua
l^r l^=t
Hunger Mountain
C6
Jebel Kurein Jeradeh
^W <j>J ^r
162
Jebel Mokadlah
<3iXc *-*}»e (Jj^T
Mountain of the Fall
of A.
162
*Jebel Seil el Aswad
<Jj-i^l\ J-* J-^P-
Mountain of the
Black Vipers
162
Jebel esh Shirarit
Lzj\j\y^\ JLyr
162
*Jebel Zafarin
u'y^J J1^"
162
ej Jedeiyeh
IJ^XsJ!
The Little Kid
C6
ej Jetebine
(UjooIcs-!!
Vegetation. (See
Dozy Suppl.)
162
ej Jenin
i^Lvs-ll
The Gardens
69
Jeriba
h\fr
163
Jibin
l^T
Foreheads or Fronts
[1631 165
Jisr er Rukkid
£)\j^r
Bridge of the R.
165
Jisr Sueiseh
iujJ y-s j^^T
165
Jobet Skek
(J£*~' ^y^
241
286

INDEX TO THE NAMES.

Transliteration.

Arabic.

Translation.

Page.

Joramiyah

h\stj>-

167

Jort edh Dhahab

218

Jort el Akra.

tfi\ ijyr

Lowland. Pit of the
Bald (Naked ? )

168

Jort el Hikim

j^UM bi=r

Lowland (Hole) of
the Commander

168

Jort el Hiwa

!*n brr

Lowland of the Wind

168

Jort Hawwa

^J^ blPr

Lowland of Eve (?)

c3

ej Jueizeh

*j>^\

The Little Nut-trees

169

ej Jummeizeh

Sj1a^\

The Sycamore

169

el Kahwineh

^lysSl!

The Camomile

169

Kanef

i^JuS

169
Karahta
ils-Jl
169
el Kaseibeh
dja.aji)!
169
Kefr Harib
t-J.W j£
(170-1 172
Kefr el Mi
*U),^tf
Water Village
r 172-
U77
Kefr Naphikh
^"S*
177
Kersa
Ls~y
Chair
179
Khalas
(jvls*.
180
Khin el 'Akabeh
djjudl j^U-
The Stair Inn
r 180-
U84
Khin Bandak
JjiXAJ UU-
18^ ,
Khin el Barik
J^uM
B7
Khin Jokhadir
j'jlti-jSJ- ^Ui-
184
Khin esh Shabaniyeh
tooLxxjiiM (jlr*-
184
Khisfin
^JjL*«£»-
184
INDEX TO THE NAMES.

287

Transliteration.

Arabic.

Translation.

Page.

el Khoka

<£&-jjs*S\

Plum Tree

186

Kh. 'Ain el Hor

J^ <jf *ir-

Ruined placed of the
White Poplar
Spring

186

Kh. el 'Arais

ljxJ\jd\ &if>-

Ruins of the Bride

187

Kh. el 'Ashek

^^iiUl! ijj>~

Ruin Places of the
Beloved

187

Kh. 'Atir Ghazil

J!/^ J^ hr"

Ruined Place of the
traces of the
Gazelle

187

Kh. el Batrah

ijj^\ <bf>~

188

Kh. ed Durdira

Xj\jjiii\ £>,!>-

Ruins of the Elm
(Ash)

1 88

Kh. Jiit

188

Kh. Jort ed Dhahab

1  jhjjl bfr *ir*~

Ruined Places of the
Gold Mine

189

Kh. Kodana

ij^tfi &>/>-

Ruined Places of the
(ignoble) Horse

189

Kh. el Medin

U^JiA^I 6JjS>-

Ruin Places of the
Open Space

191

Kh. el Mudowarah

i.jSJ^\ hy>-

The Round Ruins

191

Kh. Mukityeh

thj&sc h/>-

191
Kh. el Mukhfy
LSA^»JI hj±-
192
Kh. Sakukeh
&JL9 &)j>-
192
Kh. esh Shareireh
ljljt^\ hj&~
193
Kh. Sihin
i^l^U- *{/>-
193
el Khushniyeh
'iSJJu^\
194
Kisrin
rf-S*
194
INDEX TO THE NAMES.

Transliteration.

Arabic.

Translation.

Page.

Kom er Rumman

JCcJ\ ^

Pomegranate Heaps

194

Kubbeh or

Kubbet ed Dhahr

j&\ &i

194
Kubbet el Kara
chilli <&'i
194
Kubzah Taraiyah
L>j' ijjjj
194
el Kulah
4*1*11
The Castle Citadel
1 194-
[206
Kiilat el Husn
(j-iaaSl <ulji
el Kuleiah
lcM\
206
el Kiineitrah (i)
i^kjJujl
The Little Bridge
Arches
207
el Kuneitrah (2)
"1.207-J 214
Kurm el Emir
j^rJ
Vineyard of the
214
Princes
el Kusbiyeh
<UjwaJi!l
215
Kusr Be"rdawil
^¦}df. J**
Baldwin's Castle
215
Kusr el Kelbeh
<Ul£!t j£&
Castle of the Bitch
216
Kusr el 'Ulliyeh
tS\*A jai
144
el Kuweiyir
' JIW
The Stands for the
Beehives
216
el Liweh
£ju\
217
el Maghrik
JiA*^
217
Makam Abu en Nedi
<-£.xl!l y\ ,»\ju
249
Makim en Neby
j**- -_x.il' *ULc
254
Hasan ej Jezzar
Makam el Emir
jjJi) A'Lc
217
INDEX TO THE NAMES.

289

Transliteration.

Arabic.

Translation.

Page.

Makim el Yafureh

l£jjAxjA\ *\ju,

D2

Makht. el 'Adesiyeh

4j.*~>iX*!1 ittfLss-c

218

Makhid Esb6h

^Aj_X^ /jaLsvc

218

*Makht. el Ikful

Jy_Jl <L;Uv^

The Ford of the
Caravans

218

Makht. el Mareiyeh

4jv£.^JI iUsLsJ.*

218
Makht. es Seiyarah
& iUaJi *LtfLsj-<
218
Makht. Umm Khar
"Ojjis- ,»1 tLaVs^c
218
rubeh
Makht. Umm Sherub
L-J.jlMj\ 4I i^lsj^c
218
Makran el Widian
^k^ uA*
Junction of the Valley
Beds
218
Mamid el Ma'inek
^pU^li s^,<
218
el Mansurah (1)
S^_v»J!
218
el Mansurah (2)
218
el Medjimia
^oLsj^ll
219
el Medjnuneh
iLijAisj^Jl
The Crazy Woman
220
el Mejdeliyeh
ailljwsjjl
220
Merj el Buk'iti
ifiUjJl — -*
r 12
1 252
Merj el Ekseir
jUA\ __^
134
Merj ej Jiit
MAajJl T^r^5
Meadow, Meadow-
189
land of
*Merj el Katreineh
J^xr
78
Merj et Tabel
j Ail ^
Drum Meadow
220
Merj el Yafureh
^.jAxll zy*
220
290

INDEX TO THE NAMES.

Transliteration.

Arabic.

Translation.

Page.

el Mesadi

i?JkJ_Al

220

el Mesadiyeh

XJjot~-»Jl

221

el Mezra'a

i£.,\*y\

The Hamlet

221

Mikiall

J.JJU

221

Mobarah

itr

Quarry (Schum)

221

*M6barat 'Ayun

t^A2, irty°

222
el Mudowarah
SjjJ»A\
The Round
222
el Mu£si
<A>A1
222
el Mujjenneh
i_UAl
24
*Mukatt ej Jamusiyeh
tL*.**i»-«W^J V C^C
222
Mumes£h
, — w«4^c
222
el Muriyeh
AjA^
222
el Mushbak
u£jk~Al
222
el Muskk£rfiweh
i_?jli,jiA'
223
Nib
__>\J
Tooth
223
Nahr er Rukkid
sdj\ >
River Rukkad
(223I 33
Nahr es Saar
jAJl^j
( 3'
I 223
Nakasa
4_JD
223
Namrah
^?.j
223
Neby Yunis
t
163
Nuarin
uA1
224
Ophini
ilijl
E 262
el 'Ozeiriyit or el 'Aza-
ijj*!! , c->l>,j*!l
101
riyeh
INDEX TO THE NAMES.

291

Transliteration.

Arabic.

Translation.

Page.

er Rafid
*Rakikiyah

<A^

J" 226-
I229 229

*Rin Jibin

&&* Jjj

Trough ? of Jibin

163

Ris 'Ain el Bedi

^UlAI >jXe. ^jm\j

79

?Ris el 'Akabeh

djJUll cAj

Summit of the As
cent

182

Ris el Hil

JUJ1 {Jm\j

229

Ris esh Shaaf

__sl*jij 1 {jh \.

239
Ris esh Sheikhah
<La*Al {jm\j
229
*Ris Tawifik
Rasm el Hirin
245 229
er Riwiyeh
kw
The Water Bottle or
Pipe
(125 1 229
Rod el Bineh
u^ cAj
230
er Ruhineh
*Ju_wjJl
230
Rujum el 'Abdeh
i'jojJl M^-j
Stone-heap of the
Female Slave
230
Rujum el 'Abhar
j*& frj
Stone- heap of the
Styrax.
230
Rujum Abu Mashik
jlL^^l f>-j
Stone-heap of A.M.
230
Rujum el Butm
^ f=rj
Stone-heap of the
Terebinths
230
Rujum el Fir
jWfrj
Stone-heap of the
Mice
230
Rujum el Khiyir
^U^jll j,=tj
231
Rujum et Tell
258
U 2
292

INDEX TO THE NAMES.

Transliteration.

_ Arabic.

Translation.

Page.

er Rumsaniyeh
er Ruzaniyeh

<)Au'U-*ij1

/2311 235
235

Saffureh

XjtSua

236

Sihel el 'Aribeh

LVU11 J|-j

236

es Samrah

B8
es Sanibir
jLAII
236
es Siteh
The Terrace
229
Seil el Breikeh
The Stream of the
Small Pond
114
Seil el Emhir
^^Ai lA*
The Little Foal Brook
257
Seil el Ghor
J_J-=V U"£~*
Brook of the Mouth
236
Seil el Hejaf
_Asss>si tA~=
236
Seil ej Jamusiyeh
cLa-mi ^el^sjj 1 (J— W
B7
Seil el Kurdiyeh
<Lj0^1 Jj.^
River of the Kurdin
237
Seil en N is win
UJlyuji\ (JJ— '
Rain Brook of the
Women
80
Selukiyeh
JASjL-
237
SemakhSerai
238238
es Serai
L1A1 Ll^Jl
The Government
, Building
207
*S.erj Susiyeh
<y«)^«d 77^
244
*esh Shaif
_JUA1
The Summits
239
*esh Shafeh
«ift*A!l
The Summit
239
Shafet el 'Akkasheh
iilwtll L_-*A*,i
E4
INDEX TO THE NAMES.

293

Transliteration.

Shafet 'Ain Eshsheh
Shafet Esbeh
Shafet Kutta
Shafet es Sindiineh
esh Sharah
*Sheffet esh el Ghorib
*Sheffet Mobarah
*ShefFet Tabak el
Meliweh
esh Sheikh 'Abdullah
Sheikh Faiyad 'Abd el
Ghaneh
Sheikh Ahsen
esh Sheikh Khalil
Sheikh Marziik
Sheikh Muhammed
Sheikh el Mukhfy
esh Sheikh Musi
Sheikh Rajil
esh Sheikh Shehadeh
el Fadl
Shejeret el 'Ajami
Shejeret el 'Ameri

Arabic.

Translation.

<LLc ^A£ ii«_i
i__S <_jlij— i
^*A1
^UIju^c. isA
Jutil Jjl (A ^» ^A

JA^ ^Al
A>ir* -^A
l_A*s*^ A*1
ic^J-* A
j__Jl i'jlA -fA^

Top of the Nest-
spring

The summit of the
Stone Oak

The Edge of the

The Sheikh Moses

The Tree of the
Persian (Strangers

294

INDEX TO THE NAMES.

Transliteration.

Arabic.

Translation.

Page.

Shejeret el Fikhureh

X , ..&- UI 1 iAs-i

C4

Shejeret el Mu6si

"^UkJ MJ i #raA

222

Shejeret el Musterih

,  \ ._ \J+7~*J \ h -iW

The Tree of the

240

Resting Place
Shejeret Mutallat el
Bahrein
j.tJ «A <U_v« i>sA
240
ShejeretU mmE shsheh
<LjU..C *) £ ^J
240
esh Sheri'ah
A>A^
Drinking Places
32
esh Sheri'at el Meni-
direh
*AA*ji AiA
Drinking Place of
Men (Jarmtik)
r 3888
1 240
esh Shomariyeh
aLJ^Al
The Fennel Country
240
esh Shukeiyif
i_aJiiAl
The Small Block of
Rock
240
Shuweikeh
<Aa
241
es Sindiineh
iUjAJl
The Stone Oak
241
Sirb el Butm
*— A tr-^r!
241
Sirbet el Kharirib
L-^J.l^Al ij^-!
The Carob Tree
241
Sitt Iskene
AA- uL*-
241
Siyar el 'Arbam
(^JmJ1\jJ^s
The Folds of the
Forty
241
Siyar er Rashid
dkA^l^j^
241
Skek
dA^
241
Skufiyeh
A.A
242
Sueiseh
<L«J ImJ
The Little Worm
242
Sultaneh el Akabeh
<Au!l , ,jl_A
Road of the Ascent
r 64
1 182
[224
INDEX TO THE NAMES.

295

Transliteration.

Arabic.

Translation.

Page.

Summika

dLilA

The Somach Plant

242

es Sur

jrJl

The Wall

190

Surramin (Surr el Mil)

(JAl^A ^Vcj~i

243

Susiyeh

ivjv*^ »„:

244

es Suwineh

dj 'u«a3l

The Flint

244

Suweihiyah

^a.j^

244

Tihunet el Ulleikah

ALJ1 ijs-lL

Mill of the Black

244

berry Bushes
Taket el Harireh
'ijliJ^\ £Uj
222
Tit Ahsein
^)J\au&- <>Lr
245
Tawifik
JAV
245
Telestin
A^aa
245
et Tell
Jui
The Hill
245
Tell Abu el Ghetar
^AA^ ?\ 3'
246
Tell Abu ej Jaj
A j _jj! jj
247
Tell Abu Katif
(_a_j» jjl Jj
247
Tell Abu el Khanzir
^As!\ A Jj
1 247
Tell Abu Kubeis
^^A j^ J-1'
247
Tell Abu en Nedi
_? aJJI jj! Jj
( I4
I247
Tell Abu Yusef
i_A}i ^1 Jj
J 14
L251
Tell Abu Zeituneh
jjAj Jr^ J-1'
252
Tell el Ahmar
^ j:
The Red Hill
1 252
296

INDEX TO THE NAMES.

Transliteration.

Arabic.

Translation.

Tell el 'Akkisheh
Tell el Baiyida
Tell el Baram
Tell Bizuk
Tell ed Daraiyeh
Tell edh Dhahab
Tell el Ehdeib
Tell el Emhir
ell el Faras
Tell el Ferdiweh or
Tell el Haweh
Tell el Ferj
Tell el Fizira
Tell el Hiweh
Tell ej Jiit
Tell J6khadar
Tell Krum et Turko
man
Tell Mu'akkir
Tell el Muntir

A&tll Jj
A \1 A Jj'
cJjjb Jj
<LA,jJ! Jj'
1_-~6>JJ1 Jj'

JJ^ll Jj'
{JMjAS Jj'
^jljjjjl jj'
*j\ys\ jj
u*Ull j.
»Usf Jj
jljU-y»- Jj' 1
UIAA1 pj Jj'
A*-* Jj'
>JA1 jj

Gold Hill
Hill of the Little
Foal
Hill of the Horses
The Isolated ? Hill

Hill of the Serpent
Tamers

Hill of the Vineyard:
of the Turkomen

Hill of the Watch
Tower

INDEX TO THE NAMES.

297

Transliteration.

Arabic.

Translation.

Page.

Tell esh Shan-

^J>*A! Jj

Barley Hill

256

Tell esh Shebin

(^AjAI Jj

256

Tell esh Sheikhah

is:jA\ Jj'

H ill of the old Woman

256

Tell es Sikkeh

^AAi Jj'

257

Tell et Taliya

t>m\ jj

257

Tell el 'Urim

^ Jj'

Hill of the Corn
Stacks

r 14
1 257

Tell Zahmul

i}y*J»j Jj

257
Tell Zikiyeh
b£\j Jj'
257
Tell ez Zatar
(jJJVtf rJJl~--) 7 A) J"1
The Thyme Hill
257
Tellul el Asbah
^Ji\ JA
257
Tellul el Buk'iti
AUaJl J^LJ
255
Tellul el Humr
j*s&\ JjJj'
The Red Hill
257
Tellull el Malul
JjUl dP
The Oak Hill
255
Tellul el Mukhfy
^A^A^ J A
14
Tellul es S'ilib
AWI JA
Hill of the Fox
258
Tellul Surramin
(JA1
148
*Tiyah Sihin
(^WU; AA
D7
Tlel
JA
Small Hill
259
et Tscherkes
i_A/A
The Circassians
57
et Tuenni
Anlall
259
el 'Ulleika
AOoJl
The Blackberry Bush
259
INDEX TO THE NAMES.

Transliteration.

Arabic.

Translation.

Page.

Umm el 'Ajij

^11 r'l

The Smoky, dusty (?)

259
fii8,

Umm ed Daninir

^jjUJI 11

Possessor, denaric

\ 259-
I265

el Umm Gheiyar

JUA

C3

el Umm Jehiyeh

^J^aA'

The fallen in or fallen
down (Schum).

C7

Umm el Kanitir

>U«JI }\

Possessing arches

265

Umm el Mutibin

^LAl ~c\

Magazines with

265

chopped straw

*Widy Abu Hamidah

»jA>- jjl lSl>\j

265
*Widy 'Abud
J»Js£ 1_?l>1j
265
Widy el 'Ajam
*oA' i-^ij\j
(District)
9,265
Widy el 'Al
JU11 ^\j
267
Widy el 'Amudiyeh
AA<A1 l£~\j
C5
*Wady 'Ayun
U^AJ. i_^1j
Spring Valley
222
Widy'AinelGhazileh
<31j*!l ^Jki L^lj
Valley of the Gazelle
Spring
77
*Widy Barbireh
\M/. ""^J
265
Widy el Barbutiyeh
ai\s^jji\ lj^\j
265
Widy Batih
_A t-*^\j
265
Widy Bizuk
AjjV ^1>
253
Widy Bedirus
241
*Widy Bir el Kabak
CJi>S.\\ jL i_fjlj
215
*Widy el Bireh
iAA ^^Ij
237
Widy Dabura
^j i_5 jij
119
Widy ed Dalieh
AlljJl ufjlj
Vine Valley
1 266
INDEX TO THE NAMES.

299

Transliteration.

Arabic.

Translation.

Page.

Widy ed Difleh

<3A^1 i-?o1j

Valley of the Little
Oleander Bush

267

Widy Deir 'Aziz

JO*jl-> lS^J

170

*Widy Deir es Baih
Widyed Delhamiyeh

Valley of the Monas
tery of the Wild
Beast

D7
IOI

*Widy ed Dora

s^jJl i-fjlj

160

Widy Enghib

l_^A*J i_?t>l.

'35
Widy Esfera
'ijjJud\ l^j!_j
C/Df
Wady el Fijer
*=rUll t^jlj
136
*Widy el Fakhureh
S.»ii-U!\ l-?A
147
Widy es Feiyat
CjtjSUdl l^j!«
136
Widy Fik
lA* ^A
265
*Widy el Ghadiriyeh
dLJjjJ*!! lSj\j
H7
Widy el Gharibeh
169
Widy el Halaweh
Xj%s^\ ±Sa\j
265
Widy el Hamd
jA^sJ' "-^A
Valley of the Bitter
Herbs
265
Widy el Hamri
^^Al o-A
D 2
*Widy Hital
JA*- <-5"^i_j
163
Widy el H6shaba
AikaaJl i_f^l_j
3i
*Widy Inkheli (Umm
Kheli)
(A-AOAA^'-S
Valley of the Little
Palm?
C,D
*Widy ej Jamusiyeh
iL>^j^cUsii\ ufjlj
200
Widy Jeraba
160
Widy Joramayah
ajAr»- <->^J
266
3°°

INDEX TO THE NAMES.

Transliteration.

Widy ej Jummeizeh
*Widy el Kaseibeh
Widy Kefr Naphakh
Widy Keleit
Wady el Khidr
Widy el Kibleh
Widy el Kuneitrah
Widy el Masaud
Widy el Mesadiyeh
Widy Muakkar
*Widy el Mugheiyir
*Widy Musmir
Widy Neskhib
Widy er Rih
Widy er Ruzaniyeh
Widy es Saffah
Widy es Sahun
Widy es Sakukeh
Widy es Samir
*Widy es Sanibir
Widy Seisaban
Widy es Selba
Widy es Semakh

Arabic.

Translation.

lxyJks^\ lSJi\j
kjjj i_£jl.

_^UA1 lSa\.
jAm t-fjlj
' & ^J
Udl ,e^.
^iAl t^j'j
,Adl <-^lj
jIAJI i_?j1j

Sycamore Valley

Keleit is the name of
the Tribe

South Valley

Wind Valley

Plate ? Valley

Fish Valley

INDEX TO THE NAMES.

301

Transliteration.

Arabic.

Translation.

Page.

*Widy Serai

iCpj <_$A

239

Widy es Serir

jlj^\ <^olj

268

Widy es Serfs

/luJ -uj) £i CtJU

268

Widy esh Shebib

l^^OOvAll l_fj\j

267
Widy esh Shukeiyif
i_ajIJiA\ i_?jli >
265
*Widy Sihin
I^UsU- <-?oli
193
Widy es Sunim
»AJ1 i_?A
Valley of the Camel's
Hump
28
Widy et Tiwahin
.j^-l^Ul i_?jlj
Valley of the Mills
266
*Widy el 'Ulleika
AjJjtll i_?jli
Blackberry Bush
Valley
2 59
*Widy Umm Kheli
161
Widy Washarah
i-Ut-^-J fc^tJ't
268
Widy el Washisha
uui.1 ^"jl.
268
Widy Z'a6ra
C2
*Widy el Yehudiyeh
ijj^jJi t^A
268
Widy Zawatm
(Ai'Vi^ *-?j!j
Valley of the Olive
Trees
C4
Wakkis
C/^J
268
Wisit
kJ,
The Middle
268
Washarah
268
Wely Akkasheh
iilLl! jj
252
Wely Jafer
>*=r Jj
268
Wely esh Sheikh
Ibrahim
j^j, ^Al Jj
268
INDEX TO THE NAMES.

Transliteration.

Arabic.

Translation.

Page.

Wely esh Sheikh Mu
hammed el 'Ajameh
Wely esh Shebin

170
C3

Wely Umm el 'Ajij

^ r' jj

B 6

Wely et Taliya

t^i Jj

257
Yikusah
AyiAl
268
el Yfihudiyeh
*jj_yAi
270
Zakiyeh
aiAlj
The Name of the
Women
272
Za6ra ez Zarura
ez Zawiyeh el Ghur-
biyeh
b&
<jlaA iijjjii
The White Thorn
The Westerley Corner
(District) Schum
272273 10
ez Zawiyeh esh Shur-
kiyeh
ailJySJ! aJj^jll
The Westerley Corner
(District,)
9
Ziwiyet ej Jukem
ryuii L_,lj
B7
Zeita
^J
273
Zor Abu Kubzeh
^J^JJj
The Thicket of the . . .
273
Zor en Nis
Zor Ramadin or Ram-
liyeh
273273
Zor er Riyis
U"kJ\ jjj
273
INDEX TO THE NAMES.

303

Names of the Bedawin Tribes who winter in the
Jaulan according to the Official Register.

Number of

^Transliteration.

Arabic.

Tents
(5 persons to
a Tent.)
'Arab el-Abu 'Asi
VJ-l* ^
AA
6
'Arab el-Abu 'Eid
JkJ^C y}\
AA
12
'Arab Abu 'Eid Hameideh
i_£jUv*»- iXJ^C «jl
«AA
8
'Arab el-Abu Haji
Ij^^I
AA
3°
Arab Ahmed esh-Shibleh
JjAI a*=-\
AA
6 .
'Arab el-'Akeidit
cj1aaa*11
AA
300
'Arab el-Bakkir
j!a\
AA
90
'Arab Beni Nimr
j^ lA
AA
120
'Arab Beni Rabi'a
*«*J LS^
AA
40
'Arab ed-Dheiwit
CuAuAl
AA
4
'Arab el-Hadiideh
ifjolj^asll
AA
8
'Arab el-Hamamra
^cl/Ksjll
AA
45
'Arab Harb
A-
AA
120
'Arab Jallili Wa-'azi
^Aj J^r
AA
16
Arab ej-Jamaileh
&UJI
AA
45
'Arab el-Kabaireh
*>.^
HA
10
3°4

INDEX TO THE NAMES.

Number of

Transliteration.

Arabic.

Tents
(5 persons to
a Tent. )

'Arab el-Manifeh

jJLAl '-Jrc

8

'Arab el-Merizka

Ujl^l Ly

50

'Arab en-Nu 'eimit et-Ti'a

iclLll luUjjAI l-r^jS-

35

'Arab er-Ramla

il^il I^JjS.

30

'Arab es-Seikit

LlJCxA\ L-JjS.

4

'Arab Shim

8

'Arab esh-Sharihleh

J^^LJ^

30

'Arab et-Tahaineh

A.W2!! <-rJr£-

12

'Arab Turkoman Suweidiyeh

Ajjlt-j u^lArf t-rJiA

iS

'Arab el-Umhammadat

CjIjAsAI LJx

6

'Arab el-'Utba

AJuuell <—>jC-

22

'Arab el-Wisit

k-i'.ll t— '-^

45

'Arab Wesiyet el-Gharaba

UI Jtll tijMjJi <-r}j£

20

THE END.

HARRISON AND SONS, PRINTERS IN ORDINARY TO HER MAJESTY, ST. MARTIN'S I.ANE, LONDON.

PALESTINE EXPLORATION FUKD

PLAN OF
Surveyed anlttraimby
G. SCHUMACHER, CE
Haifa, June 1888

Scale of feet

E Wkller. ltth

PALESTINE EXPLORATION FUND.

ABILA

DE CAPO LIS

GOTTLIEB SCHUMACHER, CE.

With original Plans, Illustrations, and d]_Map.

LONDON :
THE SOCIETY'S OFFICE, I, ADAM STREET, ADELPHI, W.C,
ALEXANDER P. WATT, 2, PATERNOSTER ROW.
1889.
{All Rights Reserved.)

LONDON :
11 Ali BISON AND SONS, PBINTEES IN OEDINAET TO HEE MAJESTY,
ST. maetin's LANE.

PREFACE.

At the request of the Committee of the Palestine
Exploration Fund, I have undertaken to see the
account of my friend Herr Schumacher's survey of
the ruins of Abil through the press, and make such
modifications of idiom as were needful to render the
descriptions clear. Except for this, I have made as
little alteration as possible, considering that Herr
Schumacher's own words would best describe the
interesting ruins of Abila of the Decapolis, of which
he. is the first explorer to publish plans and drawings.
The Arabic names are printed as Herr Schu
macher has written them, and give the present — rather
than the classical — orthography.
The illustrations have all been engraved expressly
for the present publication from the drawings and
plans sent home by Herr Schumacher. They will

PREFACE.

enable the reader to form a clear idea of one of the
many interesting sites in the country east of the
Jordan, which is so rarely visited.
The ruins were evidently of very considerable
extent, and show the remains of buildings that must
have boasted originally no inconsiderable architectural
splendour. History takes little count of the town of
Abila of the Decapolis — some half dozen incidental
references are the most that can be found ; but Herr
Schumacher's description and drawings of Temple,
Theatre, and Basilica are again proof, if need were,,
of the many wonderful remains of lost cities which
still await the explorer in the fertile upland regions
of the country across the Jordan.
Guy le Strange.

CONTENTS.

PAGE
Tiberias to Kefr el-Ma  9
Procession for rain  10
Dolmens at 'Ain Dakar  11
Sheikh Sa'ad, ruins of a church  12
Thermal spring near Mzeirib  13
'Amrawah and its Sheikh  14
Khan and ancient sculptures  16
The name Abil or Kueilby  18
Treasure-trove  18
Khirbet ez-Zneibeh   19
Widy Shelaleh   19
'Ain el-Kattara  20
El Kefarat (Decapolis)  20
Wad el-Kueilby  20
Tell Abil and Tell Umm el 'Amad  21
Ruins on Tell Abil  22
City walls  23
Bridge connecting the two hills  23
Ruins on Tell Umm el 'Amad  24

CONTENTS.

PAGE
Ornamented capitals  25
Ruins of a Temple or Basilica  26
Theatre below Tell Abil and other ruined buildings .... 30
Vault near the same   31
Ruins of the great Basilica  ... 32
Paved road and bridge  33
Weli of Sheikh Muferrej  34
Rock cut tombs in the Wady Abil  35
Various forms of the Tombs ; Kokim and Loculi under
Arcosolia  36
Historical notices of Abila of the Decapolis  45
Notices by Burkhardt and Wetzstein  45
Description of the site by Seetzen in 1806  46
Position of Abila of the Decapolis  47
The village of Harta  48
Wady Hebras  49
Khirbet Treitab  49
Hebras  49
Medanet Hebras  50
From Hebras by Wady 'Ain et Turab and the Yarmuk to
Umm Keis  50
From Umm Keis back to Tiberias  51

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE
Ornamental Lintel at Merkez  13
Plan of Khan at 'Amr&wah  16
Mangers of Sheikh's House  17
Roman Eagle at Amrawah  17
Ornamented Capitals at Tell Umm el 'Amad, Nos. 1, 2,
and 3  25, 26, 27
Plan of Temple on Tell Umm el 'Amad  29
Sketch, Plan, and Section of Vault at Abil  31, 32
Section of the Bridge and Roadway over the Wady el-
Kueilby  34
Plan and Sections of Tomb No. 1 in the Wady Abil .... 36 •
Plan and Section of Tomb No. 2  38
Plan and Section of Tomb No. 3  39
View and Plan of Tomb No. 4   41
Sections and Plan of Tomb No. 5  43
Plan of Tomb No. 6  44
Ornamental Lintels at Harta  48
View of Medanet Hebras  5°
Map  FRONTISPIECE.

ABI LA

DECAPOLIS.

LAST February I again found opportunity to visit the
high Plateau of Hauran, and took my way by
Tiberias, round the south end of the lake, and up the
steep road Darb el-Akabeh to Kefr Harib and Fik,
the westernmost villages of the Hauran. The country
was everywhere dried up, and the green along the road
poor, a result of the little rain that had fallen this
winter. The seeds had hardly sprouted, and it was with
sorrowful forebodings that the Hauran Fellah looked
forward to the coming crops. Large parcels of land
had remained untilled, hardly a plough-share had
been driven across the fields to prepare the soil for
the ' seify ' or summer sowing. The cattle, from the
want of pasture, were already in a miserable state, and
the natural watering-basins throughout Hauran were

ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS.

already nearly dry. At Kefr el-Ma, where we passed
the night, the youth of the village were just setting out
in procession, walking arm in arm, the young girls
following behind the young men, marching in rank,
striking old petroleum cans the while, and shouting
and crying in every possible melody, praying for rain.
Now and again a miserable old Fellah would pour a
quantity of water over a row of the boys and these
immediately would cover their heads with the 'aba' or
mantle, and rushing through the streets, cried ' Shita,
shita!' (rain, rain). This symbolic joy fortunately
soon became a reality, for a week later the clouds
poured down their sources of blessing over the thirsty
land, and the dearth and drought were remedied.
Next day I pushed further eastwards, taking my
way from Kefr el-Ma, not through the wild gorge of
the Rukkid, but straight to the bridge of Jisr
er-Rukkad, through a most stony, rough country,
covered with basalt masses. Here and there along
the small Wad el-Mu'akkar (a wady running east and
west from Tell el-Mu'akkar — see map of 'Jaulan')
springs gush out among the black lava rocks and
produce a fresh oasis in this dry country. Leaving to
the right the ruin El-Murujeh, a large heap of stones,
with traces of strong walls and the remains of some
modern huts, we cross to the Rukkad at the bridge
just mentioned. The wady bed is not deep here, the
stream being about 1 5 feet across and one foot deep,

ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS.

tumbling over the gigantic basalt blocks down to the
first cataract, a couple of hundred yards below the
Jisr. From here we proceeded through the marshy
ground surrounding 'Ain Dakar, and across the
dolmen field of that neighbourhood. To our surprise
we found every now and again that a dolmen had
been turned over, and especially the large covering
slabs were thrown down, and the dolmen interiors dug
up. On inquiry in the matter, we learnt that the
Fellahin and Bedawin, after my repeated visits to the
place and investigations of these monuments, had
come to the conclusion that I was looking for treasure
among the ' Kubur Beni Israil,' and, therefore, they
also had tried their luck in investigating the interiors
with hoe and hands. But whether any 'kens'
(treasure) had been found, I could not discover.
Following the Roman road coming from the country
west of the Rukkad, and crossing the plateau between
Tsil and 'Adwan, we reached the so-called capital of
Hauran, Sheikh Sa'ad, in the latter part of the same
afternoon. The Merkez, or seat of government, was
but little changed since my last visit in 1884 and
1885. The suk (market) has improved, and here and
there a house for the Government officials had been
erected ; a sort of inn also had been built. Next to
this stood a large khan and dry-goods store, held by
a Damascus merchant, who willingly took us to look

ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS.

at his property. Among liquors and dainties that
were the products of Damascus, I discovered some
canned provisions, and amongst the rest some tinned
lobsters. Some of these latter I took with me as a
curiosity, proving that civilization had found its way
even into the heart of Hauran to this degree. But,
alas ! when the can was opened next day near
Mzeirib, its contents had quickly to be consigned to
the floods of the holy lake of Bajjeh !
The Mutasarrif, or Governor, of Hauran was absent
in the 'Jebel,' to collect the taxes from the hostile
Druses, and look out for a suitable site for a Govern
ment colony near the Lejja at Busr el-Hariry ; for, in
view of the continual quarrels between Druses and
Bedawin, the Government had at last decided to
erect a strong place there, from which both peoples
could be controlled and, in case of need, brought into
subjection by the strong arm of military authority.
After concluding my official business with the
Acting Governor, I strolled through the Government
building, which is in a state of decay, as nothing is
ever mended or looked after. The 'livan,' or corridor,
in front of the room where the 'Mejlis Idara'
(Administrative Council) was in full session, was, I
now discovered, built on the foundations of an ancient
apse, while the room itself was in part formed from
the aisles of a Christian Church that had in former
times belonged to the great convent of Job (see

ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS.

'3

'Across the Jordan,' p. 188 ff). The main axis of the
church ran nearly due north and south. In the walls
of the modern building, the many ancient crosses had
been generally destroyed by fanatic hands. In the
opposite wing, the southern part of the Merkez,
the lintel ornament given below (the crosses somewhat
defaced) was masoned into the wall.

1

!¦

||Pi!lli{||
lilBHI

1
illlffl

n
IT

1

t
w

£  Jf.' 7L'  =

Ornamental Lintel at Merkez.

From Sheikh Sa'ad we started next morning
southwards towards Ajlun. At Mzeirib we made our
first halt near the Government flour mill. In addition
to what I have said on pages 27 and 28 in 'Across
the Jordan,' I may add that I further discovered
on the east bank of the Bahret el-Bajjeh, a
thermal spring, about 100 yards south of the mill
there mentioned. The water is sweet, but had a
temperature of 280 C. (840 F.), while the lake itself
had but 24° C. (75° F) The village and market
(Ed Dukkakin) is becoming less and less inhabited,
the feverish climate of the place contributing greatly
to its falling into ruin.
From Mzeirib we turned westwards to Tell esh

14 ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS.
Shehab, and without entering that populous village,-
descended the slopes of the Wad el-Meddan (see
map). The slopes and bed of this large widy are
formed by a soft crumbling white limestone ; the road
winds along the precipices and finally crosses the bed
at a place where the stream is, at this season, hardly
flowing, though forming here and there basins of
water, full of fish. The heaps of basalt blocks and
de"bris lying about in the wady bed, however, prove
that this stream, coming from the interior of Haurin,
is very powerful after a rainfall. We climbed the
southern bank and reached a fertile, well-cultivated,
and nearly stoneless plateau, and then rode across it
in a western direction for about two miles. We
afterwards crossed the small dry Widy Shdmar
(_«j^). Nowhere in this plateau were there any
stones. The soil of this region lies in very deep
layers, as may be seen from the widy bed, and is said
to be most fertile. With a short bend northwards we
reached Amriwah (sjL»»c). The village contains
about 40 huts, generally built of mud, few stones being
used, as the Sheikh has built up all the old remains
into his own dwelling. The village lies on a parcel
of ground that is slightly elevated above the sur
rounding plateau. It has a poor appearance, but
has splendid soil all round it. The drinking water
is brought from near the Wad Tell Shehib. We tied
our horses in the courtyard of the Sheikh's dwelling,

ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS. 15
while our zaptich (soldier) went to seek the Sheikh
among the villagers. Meanwhile carpets were spread
in the 'madif ' (also called 'menzul '), or room for guests
the 'nukra,' or fireplace, was cleansed, wood for fuel
brought, and the coffee cans rinsed and prepared.
Meantime Sheikh Jeber arrived, bid us welcome and
sat down beside us. He was an old but well-fed
and pleasant-looking Fellah, half blind, but still very
active. After inquiring, as usual, our health and our
doings, he soon began to give us a long account of
his life and adventures in Haurin. He had risen
from being a common Fellah of Tuffas, in Haurin, to
the post of Sheikh here, having expropriated land
while ' Amrawah was yet a ruin and the state of things
in Haurin quite unsettled ; and after long and bloody
skirmishes with the Bedawin, had ended by having
his land 'registered,' and now calls the rich village
his own property, while all the inhabitants are his
' haratin ' or ' ploughers.'
I several times made the attempt of inquiring into
the position of Abil, but he always avoided the
question. Coffee was passed round once or twice,
cigarettes and pipes smoked, the room began to be
crowded with his subordinates, but my questions
remained unanswered. At last I remarked on the
ancient remains of capitals, columns, and ornaments
I saw lying about in his yard, and asked where they
came from. 'Oh/ replied he, 'they come from your

i6

ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS.

fathers, and I will show you still more of them.' He
rose and led us to an ancient building, roofed with
basaltic slabs, as is usual in the old Hauran archi
tecture, which he had made into a stable and straw
barn. ' This is my grain magazine, friends,' he
continued ; ' formerly it was called " Khin es-
Sultany," ^daUUl ^l^. (the Imperial Khan), and
now it is called " Khan Jeber." ' He concluded with
a chuckle. This Khin has a length of about 50 feet,
and is divided into two equal sized rooms, each 20 feet
wide and about 15 feet high, connected by a door.
The masonry is very carefully executed. Large
hewn stones of basalt
are masoned together,
evidently without mor
tar, and the roofing, as
above noted, is thc same
as that, for instance, at
Kh. Samakh, in Hauran
('Across the Jordan,' p.
183). The covering slabs
are long and about a foot
thick ; they are sup
ported by arches which cross from side to side.
The Khin was partly subterranean, the present
floor lying several feet below the surface of the
yard. Near the western entrance I saw a head
of an Apollo, beautifully carved in basalt, but

MOT

t

*
door
T
1 2'.0"
IM
<t>
-S0'.\Ot
Khan es Sultan.
ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS.

'7

very much defaced, and lying buried in the manure
heap of the stable. On the northern walls I found
rows of mangers 2 feet 6 inches wide, 2 feet high,
similar to those I had already seen in Jaulan and
Haurin. Near the Sheikh's dwelling a fine basalt

arch-stone, with engraved egg ornament and frieze,
was found, evidently that of a gate 8 to io feet wide ;
and in front of his Menzul the Sheikh had set up a
fine Roman eagle, of the exact size and shape of the
one found on the top of the Tell Abu en Neda, in
Jaulin (see 'The Jaulin,' p. 250),
only in this case the wings were
spread and the head had unfor
tunately been broken off. The
capitals were Corinthian, while the
bases of. the columns lying abouL
The building stone,
without exception, was basalt.
When the Sheikh had most willingly shown us all
B

Roman Eagle at
Amrawah in Basalt. were Attic.

1 8 ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS.
these treasures, he looked up, and pointing westwards
towards Wad esh Shelileh, said: 'And now I will
show you the ruin you look for. But few know it by
the name of Abil ; it is generally called El Kueilby ;
but as it belongs to my own lands, I know its original
name, and will show it to you, if you give me a share
in the treasure you assuredly will try to find there.'
All my asseverations to the contrary, that I merely
wished to sketch some fine ornaments of the place,
being a ' mehendis ' (engineer) were in vain ; the old
fellow simply replied, ' See, my son, this village is my
own ; the land all around is my property, but I have
' harratin ' (sowers) to whom I rent the land ; they
plough, cultivate, and sow it, and the fifth of the net
income of the crops is mine. The same with you,
friend ; you dig on my property at Abil, and the
fifth, no, the tenth, of all you find is mine, the
remainder yours,' and with repeated chucklings he
entered the menzul, pushing me on in front of him.
I had finally to agree to the bargain, as I saw that I
should never convince the whimsical old fellow of the
truth as to the nature of my explorations, and
obtained a guide (being also trustee for his share of the
treasure), who was to take us to Abil.' He then
ordered breakfast, and when it had been despatched,
bid us farewell, on the understanding that we should
soon return again, and 'always consider him a
good, trustworthy friend.' Hugging me affectionately

ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS. 19
in his arms, he exclaimed, ' All my talk was a mere
joke. I do not want my share of the treasure,
Masalamy ! ' ' Allah selmak ! ' (God bless you), I
replied, glad of having found a guide and got rid
of this wonderful old Sheikh. I often spoke of
him to people who knew the country, and, without
exception, all esteem him and praise the hospitality
of Sheikh Jeber.
We left Amriwah in the later part of the after
noon, rode westwards for a mile and a half over a
beautiful, fertile plain, leaving the village of Khirbet
ez-Zneibeh to our right, and shortly arrived at the
borders of the great Widy esh Shelileh. Khirbet
ez-Zneibeh is a village of thirty-five huts, a little
better built than 'Amriwah, standing just above the
steep declivities of the widy, and thence occupying a
fine and commanding view down into the river-bed
and over across the surrounding country. The
descent down the bank was very tiresome, as we
had to pass from an elevation of 1,200 feet down
to 245 feet above the sea level, the path being further
rocky, winding, and steep, and the temperature high.
When at last we arrived at the widy bed 1,000 feet
below the plateau, horses and men were covered with
sweat, and were glad to find a cool stream running
between a luxurious growth of oleanders and cane.
The slopes of Wady Shelileh are of a soft limestone
formation, sparsely covered with brushwood. This is
B 2

ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS.

the natural boundary where the basaltic formation
ceases, and it is also the limit of Hauran, for Shelileh
separates Ajlun from that country. The little stream
is hardly 2 yards across and about 6 inches deep,
and may probably dry up in hot summer days com
pletely. The ascent up the western slope was still
more tiresome than the descent had been ; the road led
for an hour over continuous rocky terraces, along the
side of a widy, winding round the bare slopes until
we finally arrived at 'Ain el-Kattira,* s \^g \\ ^.
a small stream flowing out of a cave in a bare
perpendicular rock. On the soft, white limestone
rock surrounding the Ain, we saw numerous ' wasm '
or tribe-marks . of the Bedawin ; most were the
arrow-head wasm of the Z'obey jj^; Bedawin ;
thus T\ also crosses were numerous, especially in the
interior of the cave. In front of the spring there is
a small piece of flat ground, which has often served
as camping place for Bedawin. In fifteen minutes
we reached the plateau again, and found ourselves
in the district of El Kefarit of 'Ajlun. The
plateau is fertile and well cultivated. After riding a
mile further we at last reached the eastern shoulder
of Wid el-Kueilby, and on the other side appeared
Abil. The descent down the slopes was more easy,

* 'Ain el Kattara, ' the slowly-dropping spring.

ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS.

and took only half as long as that of Wid esh
Shelileh. The Wid el-Kueilby rises some miles
south of Abil, flows at first northward, and then bends
somewhat to the north-west, and then north again,
when it joins the Yarmuk not far west of the Tell ej-
Jimid (see map of Haurin), having a length of about
eight miles, and a total fall (from 1,400 feet above
the Mediterranean at its rise to about 80 feet at its
junction) of about 1,300 feet.
On reaching the ancient site I proceed to enquire
of the keepers of the herds grazing in the neighbour
hood as to the name of the ruin, leaving mean
while my guide at the stream below, where he
was washing his feet and beginning his evening
prayer. He, therefore, had no communication with
them before my inquiries were put They told me,
' the entire ruin is generally known by the name of
El Kueilby j^jjj^ the diminutive of k_jj (small
well), for I find no other translation. The spelling
<u1a*£H, pp. 10 and 101 of "Across the Jordan," is
wrong. The hill to the north is also named Tell
Abil JjT Jj", and the one we now stood on fthe
southern ruin) was Tell Umm el 'Amad j^l J Jj
These are the true names. A later inquiry at Harta
gave the same result.
We were thus on the very spot discovered by
Seetzen on the 25th of February, 1806, which he

ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS.

considered to be the Abila of the Decapolis, and
which, to my knowledge, has not been visited or
described by any subsequent explorer.
The same evening I surveyed and sketched a part
of the caves and ruins, and then pushed on to Harta,
which I reached after half an hour's ride. Next
morning early I returned again, and completed my
explorations, of which I now proceed to give an
account. The site is built over two hill summits. The
northern one, Tell Abil, is surrounded to the north
and east by deep and steep widies, while on the
south a less precipitous widy separates it from the
Tell Umm el Amad,* which ruin is situated on a
projection of the high plateau at the same height as
Tell Abil, and is also surrounded on three sides by
wadies. The Tell Abil contains many heaps of hewn
stones, foundations of large buildings, fragments of
columns and capitals, but no distinct ruin which
could be planned. The central spot among the debris
was the most elevated — 1,340 feet above the sea,
according to my barometer ; and to judge from the
large, well-hewn stones lying about, this must have
been a prominent building, probably a castle. A

* [Meaning ' the mother of columns,' or the ' columned hill.
-Editor.]

ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS 23
little lower down the hill to the south we find frag
ments of a gate, a lintel of basalt, 6 feet long, with
a crowning ornament, and an open space in the city
wall. This hill was surrounded by a well-masoned
wall, the traces of which could be followed up in its
southern and eastern sides, but the traces became
lost on the north and also partly on the west side,
where the slopes of the widy are very steep and the
protection of the wall therefore the less needed. The
average thickness of the wall varies from 2 to 3 feet.
The stones are placed exactly like those of the walls
of Umm Keis ; no mortar was discoverable, but it must
have originally existed, for the building stone, a
crumbling limestone, was not fitted like the basalt to
remain unmortared. The area thus surrounded by
the wall covers about 2\ English acres. To the
east a narrow shoulder of the plateau also shows
scattered ruins surrounded by a wall, which con
tinues round terraces down the slope to near thc
Wid el-Kueilby. The other slopes below the main
ruin are also terraced artificially and bordered by
walls. (See map.)
A long straight wall running from east to west seems
to divide the main ruin into two halves. The crumbling
nature of the building stone has, however, left no traces
of ornamentation. Passing down the western slope
of Tell Abil we arrive at a wall, which, 13 feet thick,
pierced by a vaulted passage-way, partly preserved, in

24 ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS.
part falling in ; and what was probably a similar
passage-way is the opening where the road comes in
from Harta. As the configuration of the land here
shows a depression between Tell Abil and the southern
site, this wall may possibly be the remains of a bridge
built to form an easy communication between the two
places. This is. the more likely, as the spot presents but
little difficulty for such a construction. This bridge
may be the same as that of which Seetzen speaks on
page 372 of vol. I. I remember, too, having found
a similar construction at Tabakit Fahil, Pella, also
outside the city wall, and there uniting Tell el Husn
with Fahil. After passing the bridge and continuing
southwards for 100 yards more, we arrived at the
ruins of Tell Umm el Amid. The first monument
visible is a temple. Fragments of columns lie about,
with fine capitals and bases. Several of the basalt
and limestone columns have from 1 foot 9^ inches
to 3 feet diameter. Unluckily, it is just the larger
and more interesting capitals that are worked in the
crumbling limestone which aboun ds here, and is the rock
formation from this side of Hauran down to the west
ern border on the Ghdr ; it is the same stone we also
found at Umm Keis, and which so rapidly disintegrates
with the weather. One specimen of the capitals we
saw has the shape of a cup. Each of the four corners
shows a leaf, very probably a palm leaf, while the
lower part is ornamented with acanthus leaves. The

ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS.

25

height of this capital is 3 feet 8 inches ; its upper
diameter 3 feet, its lower 2 feet 5J inches. It is
probably the identical one of which Seetzen speaks
on p. 372, giving the design of the leaf ornament ;
but he was wrong in stating that ' the capitals are of
grey marble,' for, as before-mentioned, they are of a
crumbling limestone, which, however, shows a greyish
surface from the effects of weather.
The annexed sketch illus
trates this capital (No. 1.)
A second capital (No. 2) also
shows on each corner a leaf
ornament with upper volutes
of Ionic character with a
shield in between on each-
side. Its height is 23^ inches,
its upper diameter 27^ inches,
its lower 1 foot 9| inches. A
third specimen of the capitals
(No. 3), and the largest of
all, has an upper diameter
of 4 feet, and a lower of 3
feet, with a height of 2 feet
10 inches. It has, therefore, a
broader character. The acan
thus leaf ornament covers the
lower part, and winds up the
sides, ending in the middle of

No. 1. — Capital at Tell
Umm el 'Amad.

26

ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS.

each side in volutes. Between the leaves on two of the

fc.  /. 31L  #
No. 2.— Capital at Tell Umm el 'Amad.
sides we discovered a carefully carved cross, and on
the two others a rose ornament. This emblem proves
this building must have been of Christian origin,
although from the absence of any traces of an apse
discoverable among the ruin, it is impossible to make
out whether it was a Christian basilica or a temple.
The plan of this temple, as we may call it, is given on
the plan of Tell Abil. From what yet remains, the
building must have had a rectangular form ; the main
axis runs nearly due east and west, inclining only 40
from true east towards north. The length from east
to west is 152 feet, the entire present width from north
to south is 65 feet. The width is divided into two
not quite equal halves by a line of columns 7 feet

ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS.

8 inches apart ; four columns of this row yet stand
showing a height of i to 3 feet above the surface ; they

T\

A

3'0"-

No. 3.— Capital at Tell Umm el 'Amad.

were built of basalt and limestone, and composed of
shaft-pieces from 3 to 4 feet long, and 1 foot 10 inches
in diameter. The original number of columns on this
division line must have been twelve. The present
exterior wall on the south yet contains three columns,
which, like the above, stand 7 feet 8 inches apart

28 ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS.
though scarcely now visible above the surface, each
being I foot 10 inches in diameter. At the western end
of this line we remarked a large column 3 feet in
diameter, near to which lay the capital No. 3 (with
cross). The positions of the columns in the two rows
correspond with one another. As the north wall
contains no columns I presume there was another
wall on the south, thus completing a temple of three
nearly equal naves, and I am justified in this conjec
ture by the traces still existing in the western walls.
The annexed plan shows the present plan and its
probable restoration, with a width of 97 feet and a
length of 152 feet. The western wall still continues
towards south and north, and may have been built
round a yard, like that of the Pella Basilica.
It is not impossible that apses may originally
have existed in this building, for heaps of debris are
still to be seen at the eastern end. I undertook a
little excavation here, but could obtain no results.
In the northernmost of the three naves I found a
rectangular cistern, 19 by 19 feet, and 8 feet deep, the
sides well plastered with reddish mortar. A fig tree
is growing out of the interior. We also found a
similar basin at the Pella Basilica. As the temple is
situated about 130 feet above Wid-el-Kueilby, the
construction of a cistern to contain drinking water
was not out of place. A little above this cistern we
found a broken basalt sarcophagus, 6 feet long

ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS.

29

covered with wreath ornaments and garlands. The
large column shafts, 3 feet in diameter, and upwards

Plan of Temple on Tell Umm el 'Amid.
Explanation. — Black lines, present wall ; Double lines, supposed
line of old wall.

of 14 feet long, show the same rectangular drill
holes on the outside, as those I noted on the Pella
columns. The tribe of the 'Arab-el-Khurshan
j^Li^^ <-r,rc have engraved their 'Wasm' on many of
these columns. With the exception of the few hard

30 ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS.
limestone columns on the east of the temple which
have a length of 16 feet 5 inches, and short basalt
shafts, everything here is very much weather-worn
and defaced. The foundation walls are hardly trace
able. To the south of the temple ruin was a field
scattered over with ruins, with traces of buildings
and fragments of ornaments. It is a small plateau
covering about four acres.
Having explored the two ruins of Tell Abil and
Umm-el-'Amid, which are situated on the heights of
the plateau, we next went down towards the W&dy
el-Kueilby, and not far from the temple, first came on
a large theatre. The configuration of the slope was
made use of to form the amphitheatre, the seats —
of which but few remained — were placed on a
masoned foundation, for the reception of which the
soft rock had been prepared. No ornament, or
cornices of any kind in this interesting monument
were sufficiently preserved to be sketched, for the
crumbling of the limestone soon destroys all traces
of tool work. I found the diameter of this theatre
to be 240 feet, measured at its widest part ; the rows
of seats faced north-east. From the centre of the
theatre a strong, straight wall running nearly due
north, goes for 100 yards towards the paved road
(see below), while immense heaps of ruins, stones,
fragments of columns, etc., surmount this wall and
mingle with the remains from another ruin, situated

ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS.

further to the east towards the widy. This next ruin
is of rectangular shape. The building stones are larger
and more carefully hewn than those found elsewhere.
Several columns stand to the height of a y^ird at the
southern end of the building close to one another,
and evidently not in situ. In the interior we found a
wide cistern, now filled up with rubbish, and on the
east a vault, with a nearly circular arch, 13 feet 6
inches wide, and 38 feet long, masoned with blocks
of stone upwards of 3 feet long, and 2 feet high and
broad. On the two longer sides there are openings,
12 feet long, by 2 feet high and wide. In the crown
of the vault there is also a small opening. The
accompanying illustration is from a photograph.

Vault at 'Abil.

ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS.

Below is given the section and plan of this vault.
Being unplastered, I cannot conjecture the purpose to
which it was originally put. The building above was
possibly a sort bf court- yard for the administration of
justice.

Section,

Plan.
Still further down towards the stream we found
many other ruins of buildings, with long straight
walls and fragments of defaced ornaments ; here and
there also a column shaft or capital. Next to the
theatre, and in a straight line 250 feet east of the
temple just described, are the ruins of a second
monument of Christian origin, a Basilica, of which
the walls and apse yet stand to a height of 2 to 3 feet.
This Basilica, as much as can yet be seen — for the
interior is filled with heaps of building material —
has but one large chamber, this is rectangular, 81 feet
in length to the apse, and 62 feet wide. The apse

ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS. 33
itself has a radius of 16 feet 1 inch, equivalent to a
width of 32 feet 2 inches, giving an entire length for
the church, along the main axis, of 97 feet 1 inch.
On the west and on the south we find traces of doors
4 feet 7 inches wide. The walls are 2 feet 6 inches
thick, with no signs of mortar, although this would
have been indispensable, since the building is of
limestone, large and carefully hewn ; the manner of
laying the courses being the same as that seen at the
Basilica of Pella. The main axis is oriented north
890 east, and is, therefore, but i° from running due
east and west. No columns, or any interesting remains
of cornices or ornamentation was discoverable any
where near. The church is situated below the upper
terrace of the temple, on a small level piece of ground;
standing above and at the edge of a second terrace
there about 20 feet high. It has thus a free view
over the widy below, from which it is about 180
yards distant, with the beautifully green valley lying
between. The steep slope below this Basilica is
covered with debris fallen down from above.
Following down the road that comes in from
Harta, we pass, as has been already described, through
the opening in what we have supposed to be the
bridge, between Tell 'Abil with Tell Umm el Amid,
and passing further down the depression which
separates the two ruins, we come, at 500 feet from
the bridge, on a paved road of the present width of

34 ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS.
from 10 to 1 6 feet, which runs in an easterly direction
down to the dam, or bridge, across the Widy el-
Kueilby. The paving stones are generally of basalt,
being similar in character to those of the Darb er Rasei-
fiyeh of Umm Keis, only these here are smaller, being
only a foot square. The bridge itself has a length of
about 250 feet, which is the width of the widy bed.
It has but one circular vault, or arch, well preserved,
across the little stream, only 9 feet 7 inches wide — a
proof that the Wady el Kueilby never carries any
considerable amount of water. The top line, or

roadway, along the bridge is paved, and 36 feet wide.
Below the structure widens out by terraced buttresses
to a width of 66 feet, apparently a very unnecessary
strengthening of the structure. The Wad el- Kueilby
contains clear, good water, which flows down to the
Yarmuk ; the stream is, at the bridge, 8 feet across,
and 6 inches deep. At the east' end of the bridge,
on the roadway, is the Weli of the Mohammedan
Saint, Sheikh Muferrej, J"juc fa!*, it is a small ruined
building containing fragments of walls, with a little
prayer niche on the south.

ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS. 35
On the slopes of Wady Abil, especially bordering the
site of the old town, as well as on the Wady Umm
el 'Amid and the slopes near the Wid el Kueilby, we
found numerous caves hollowed out, in the soft lime
stone rock. The best specimens are on the rocky
Widy Abil and the adjacent slope. Of these, I give
the plans of the most interesting. Beginning on the
eastern slope near, and partly bordering on the Widy,
we have cave No. 1 (see plan). It contains a central
room, 18 feet by 10 feet IO inches, of rectangular
shape, and 5 feet 11 inches high. The walls are
perpendicular, with rounded edges near the ceiling ;
the ceiling is level. The main axis is oriented North
240 East. The entrance is on the north-east, but at
present partly filled up with rubbish ; no stone gate
was discoverable. The three walls contain Kokim, four
are hewn in the wall to the left of the entrance ; these
are 6 feet 6 inches long, 2 to 3 feet high, and 2 feet
5 inches wide, a fifth Koka is unfinished. One foot
below these, we find a second row of graves, one small
Koka being in the wall, and two Loculi in the floor
with a notch round the edge, for fitting the covering
slab into (see plan).
These two-storied graves are characteristic of the
sepulchral caves of Abil, for on the west wall we also
find two Kokim in the upper part, and one foot lower,
a third Koka, with round edges (see plan).
The south wall contains on one side, two narrow
C 2

3»

ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS.

Plan of Tomb No. I.

Section A, E.

LAX

Marks found on the Wall of
the Tomb.

1

ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS. 37
Kokim, only 1 foot 8£ inches wide, in which I found
some human bones, and next to this, was a chamber,
7 feet wide, and 6 feet 7 inches deep, 5 feet 1 1 inches
high, containing three sarcophagi, formed by two
division walls, 1 foot thick, and each covered by a
single huge slab of limestone. In front of these
sarcophagi-Kokim, I found several stone plates, 2
feet if inches high, 2 feet wide and 9 inches thick, of
a soft white cretaceous stone, on each of which was
cut in bas-relief, the semblance of the bust of a human
figure. Unfortunately, these had been all defaced, as
I was told, by the fellahin, who take such figures to
represent idols, and in accordance with the dictates of
their religion, destroy them. The work is not very
skilfully done, but from what we could see, was
probably of Christian origin. These stones have
served for closing the sarcophagi. No sign of
plastering was anywhere discoverable. A. neighbour
ing cave to that just described, contained Kokim and
Loculi, and above, on each wall, as many as four rows
of semicircular holes, with from 8 to 10 in the row.
These, to judge from their black colour, and traces of
soot, must have served as stands for oil lamps, used to
illuminate the sepulchral chamber. Each hole was
some 8 inches high, 4 inches wide, and 3 to 4 inches
deep. Another cave (plan No. 2) contains a central room,
36 feet I inch long, and 16 feet 5 inches wide, 6 feet

38

ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS.

7 inches high, the main axis being oriented north 45°
west. The entrance, 1 3 feet 2 inches wide shows neither

Plan of Tomb No. 2.

Section a, b.

stone door nor flange, a fact which would tend • to
prove that these entrances were shut by masonry.

ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS.

39

To the left, on entering, we find two large lamp
stands (L L), 2 feet wide, 2 feet high, and 1 foot 7 inches
deep ; further on, on the same wall, is a Koka under

Plan of Tomb No. 3.

wmmmmmttm.
Section A B.

Section c, D.

40 ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS.
an arcosoljum, 6 feet 7 inches wide and 6 feet 7 inches
deep, 5 feet high ; there were also two Kokim, each
under its arcosolium, in the back wall facing the
entrance (north). These arcosolia, are very carefully
worked out of the rock ; the Kokim also were pierced
with special care, they fill the entire length of the
arcosolium, the width being less, forming a recess, so
that a stone cover could be placed on each. The
east wall contains three Kokim in a separate chamber,
and a fourth Koka lies more towards the entrance.
These tombs are but single storied.
A further set of tombs (Plan No. 3) contains
at the southern entrance a large ante-chamber,
37 feet 3 inches long, 10 feet wide, with a
Loculus under an arcosolium, 8 feet long, 4 feet
wide, evidently unfinished. Passing this chamber, we
enter by a doorless aperture, 4 feet 4 inches wide, into
the actual sepulchre, 23 feet long, 14 feet wide, 10 feet
10 inches high, with four Kokim in the upper storey,
each being 2 feet 7\ inches high, 2 feet wide, and 6
feet 7 inches long, the outside of each being bordered
by a groove 2\ feet wide. The eastern wall contains
a chamber 4 feet 10 inches by 6 feet 7 inches, with
three Loculi under an arcosolium formed by a pointed
arch. On the other side of this chamber there were
two other Kokim. The western wall has no graves.
A very peculiar tomb is that of Plan No. 4. There is
no door, the entire south front is open to a width of

ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS.

4'

16 feet 5 inches, which is also the width of the

xx _l!  as

; PiilllllllllPllll
-|;niH'niii  iilH'i'llpli,, .^^

View from South.

Flan of Tomb No. 4.
sepulchral chamber, its length being 19 feet 9 inches.

42 ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS.
This open entrance has sloping walls and a rounded
ceiling, and is surrounded by a round cornice, about
2 inches thick, which, for the greater part, has been
much damaged by the weather. Instead of any door,
there is merely a step which leads from the interior
to the small path which passes beside these caves.
In the wall facing the entrance, we found a chamber
6 feet 7 inches by 8 feet 3 inches, containing to the
north two Kokim, with round ceilings, and on each of
the side walls one Koka of the same shape, all well
and carefully worked. In the main chamber, we found
to the right, one small and one ordinary Koka, and
to the left also one Koka. Parts of the interior
show signs of plastering.
The most carefully constructed tomb that is illus
trated in Plan No. 5. The entrance to this cave is
much broken and defaced. It leads into a chamber
measuring 9 feet 10 inches by 8 feet 4 inches.
In the wall opposite, are two storeys of Koka, each
storey containing two well-worked tombs.
The two upper Kokim are each 2 feet 6 inches wide,
and 3 feet high, and 5 feet 9 inches long, with a small
niche at the end, where the rock slopes up, in order to
permit the head of the dead body being laid here, as
on a cushion (see Section A, B. and c, D.). The ceiling
of each Koka is rounded at the corners and carefully
smoothed. The exterior of the Koka is framed by a
five-cornered border. The Kokim of the lower storey

ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS.

43

are each 3 feet 3 inches high, and each has a circular

Section c, D.

Plan of Tomb No. 5.
frame. On the wall to the left of the entrance, is a
Koka of similar- construction to the above, and to

44 ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS
the right is a sixth Koka still unfinished. The in
terior of this cave, which, to judge from its very careful
workmanship, must have belonged to some wealthy
family, is entirely plastered over and painted of a red
dish colour. The ornamentation is scarcely any longer
visible, but must originally have represented simple
lines and cornices, the design, however, was far too
much obliterated to permit of any drawing being
made. Besides the caves that are here planned, I visited
another containing nine Kokim and three Loculi under
arcosolia ; also a two-storeyed cave measuring 37
fwwww&^, by 3° feet' contai'lling both
li¥M¥l£ yi sorts of graves, but this last
— Mo". — ->WJft . ' , , .-
Tfym. was in a very defective state.
mm--
3Ip Another cave 20 by 20 feet,
gH| contained nine Kokim in the
  upper storey, and thirteen
Plan of Tomb No. 6. TT , . . , , , ., , .
Kokim in the lower, with two
larger chambers opening from the corners (see plan
No. 6.)
The remainder of the caves in the neighbourhood of
Tell Abil are of similar construction and plan to those
already described. They are very numerous, but the
soft cretaceous rock in which they are tunnelled, has
in many places fallen in.
The above account is all I am able to give as the
result of my short stay of two days at the site of

ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS. 45
Abil. I may now add a few words as to the history of
this site, which is supposed to be the Abila of the
Decapolis. Josephus, (Antiq. XII., 3) gives us very little infor
mation about Abila ; he states that when Antiochus
had conquered Scopas, a general commanding the
armies of the son of Ptolemy Philopator, who had
subdued the Jews ' in the high regions,' he (An
tiochus) conquered Batanaea, Samaria, Abila, and
Gadara. According to Ritter, (Erdkunde, XVb., p. 1,060)
St. Jerome names an "Abela, vini fertilis, in duodecimo
a Gadaris milliario contra orientalem plagam." This
is the same city which often was named together with
Gadara or Capitolias, and its bishop subscribed his
signature at the Council of Jerusalem in conjunction
with the Bishops of the neighbouring cities of Hippos
and Amathus. Further, Abila was a city situated in
Northern Peraea. According to Burckhardt's ' Travels
in Palestine' (Vol. 1, p. 537, Note to p. 425), Eusebius
also calls the city 'A/3e\ (Abel) and places it 12 miles
east of Gadara. According to the same authority,
Reland has read on a palmyranean inscription A/3i\->;
t>;9 AeK<ra-o\eos (the Abila of the Decapolis).
Wetzstein ('Hauran und die Trachonen ' p. 101)
identifies Abil, above described with the Abel-beth-
maachah mentioned in the Bible (2 Kings, XV. 29),
where Tiglath-pileser, King of Assyria, met with

46 ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS.
resistance when he conquered Peraea(*) ; he places the
present Abil on the southern borders of the Yarmuk.
Dr. Wetzstein further states that the southern bank of
the Yarmuk near Abil, had served as a bulwark to the
Moslems in 635 a.d. when they were expecting the
attack of the Greek army, and that even in 1859 this
locality had again protected the Bedawin tribe of the
Ruwala, for the advancing enemy had not dared to
attack them there.
In modern days, Seetzen, as above mentioned, is
the only traveller who has ever visited the place, and
of it he gives an account on p. 371 of Vol. I. of his
' Travels in Syria, Palestine, &c.' He reached Abil
with great difficulty from Beit Ris, and mentions
the heaps of ruins, the columns and capitals (which he
describes as mostly of the Ionic order), the foundation
walls, caves, vaults, and parts of the city wall, with
the two bridges. He is of opinion that a temple
stood on Tell Umm el 'Amad. In his days
(February 1806) as at the present, no human being
lived in the place.

* [Abel - beth - Maachah, or Abel Maim, is generally
identified with the present village of Abil el Kamh, a few
miles west of Baniis. Abila of the Decapolis is probably the
place mentioned by the geographer Yakut, in 1225, under the
name of Abil az Zait. " Geographical Dictionary, I. 56." —
Editor.]

ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS. 47
That the present Tell Abil is to be identified with
the ancient Abila of the Decapolis, can hardly be
questioned. The site of the latter is always mentioned
as being near Gadara (for which we adopt Umm Keis),
being at a distance of twelve Roman miles from it.
Comparing this with my maps and triangulations of
Northern Ajlun, I find the distance, as the crow flies,
from Umm Keis to Tell Abil to be u£ English miles,
which, taking the old Roman mile at 1472^ metres,
brings it up to exactly I2f Roman miles. From Abil
to Beit Ris, I found to be 6\ English miles = 6"8 Roman
miles, and from Beit Ras to Umm Keis n^- English
miles =12 Roman miles. The distance between
Capitolias and Gadara is, according to the Peutinger
Tables, 16 Roman miles, which is 4 miles too much,
if Beit Ris is to be identified with Capitolias ; but it
must be remembered that the distances here given,
are in the straight line, which a road never follows,
and therefore by road these distances must always be
counted as longer. With, therefore, the corres
pondence in the distances, and the name (Abil =
Abila), further, the considerable ruins in proof of the
existence of a large city, containing Christian churches,
going to prove that it very probably was the seat of a
Bishop, — I do not hesitate to identify the present site
with Abila of the Decapolis.
From this place, I visited on several occasions, the
village of Harta, which lies about half an hour's ride

48

ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS.

from Tell Abil. The huts, to the number of 40, are
of stone, and much better built than those at
Amriwah. The Sheikh's dwelling and Menzul are
large, well built, and clean, and the inhabitants of
Harta are hospitable and friendly.
The soil of the place is poor, but groves of olive
trees afford a good income to the population. The
village is built close to the Widy Harta and has a
fine out-look down into Widy and beyond the
Yarmuk over Southern Jaulin.
Of antiquities, I only found a few caves and a
Basalt-gate and lintel, built at the entrance gate of

*.' //" 
Ornamental Lintel at Harta.

Ornamental lintel at Harta.

the Sheikh's yard, which, I suppose, was brought from
one of the neighbouring caves.

ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS. 49
From Harta, I travelled towards Wady Hebris,
and passed on the road, half a mile south of Harta, a
small ruin called Khirbet Treitib <_Ak> J Zij>-. It
consists of nothing but a large heap of scattered
ruins. On the slopes beyond, I noticed caves, which
on this occasion I could not explore. From here we
rode down into the Widy and reached the village of
Hebris (j^Lj^. after another half mile of road.
Hebris has a fine spring, with a plentiful water supply,
built up with ancient masonry ; other wells of con
siderable depth, are found along the Widy bank, which
is dry in summer. Hebras consists of two quarters,
one, the original village, is built half way up the slope,
and contains about twenty miserable huts, the new
quarter lies nearer to the well and Wady, and consists
of ten huts and some caves, plentifully populated by
insects. The population of Hebris is for the greater
part Harratin or ploughers, i.e., fellahin, who cultivate
the soil for the rich proprietors, either for daily
pay, or for a small share of the crops. This class of
fellahin is considered the poorest, and they occupy
a very low grade of civilisation.
At the time (1812) when Burckhardt (Travels in
Palestine, Vol. I., p. 425) visited the place, he speaks
of Hebris as the most prominent village of the
district of El Kefarit, and says it was inhabited by a
number of Greek Christians. Between the two
quarters of the village, and on the road to Samar,
D

5o

ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS.

Medanet Hebras.

there stands the Medanet Hebris,* one of those peculiar
towers, we so often met with in Hauran. The tower
rises to the height of
30 feet, and is 8 feet
square. At its south
western end was a
Jamaah, and ruins of
the mosque were still
visible. The upper
part is fallen in, but
on its northern front
I found a weather-beaten Arabic inscription, which,
as much as I could make out, refers to the date of
the building in the year of the Hejira.
From Hebris, we followed the road leading from
Samar for nearly a mile, up the slope and across the
plateau, then turning to the left rode down to the
Widy Ain et Turib, leaving Khirbet ed Deivi to the
right — a small ruin, with scattered building stones.
After a mile or more of riding, we arrived at the
junction of the water-course coming down from the
spring of Ain et Turib. Above this junction there is
another small ruin on a circular mound, the name of
which, none of the passing fellahin could tell me ; it is
named ' Al Khirbet,' (the Ruin), they unanimously
stated. The road next winds round the slope and

* Medanet, or Minaret.

ABILA OF THE DECAPOLIS. 51
crosses the little brook, which, being a perennial
stream, keeps the Widy of a beautiful green, and
enables this valley to be cultivated. We next climbed
up the opposite slope, and after a third mile's ride
arrived at the fertile plateau from which point we could
see Ibdar before us, and Samar beyond the Widy at
our backs ; a mile more, the fourth from Hebris, and
we arrived at the Rujm el Menara, described in my
report on northern Ajlun. A ride of three hours
along the well-wooded watershed of the Yarmuk and
the Wid el Arab, following down the ancient aque
duct coming from Haurin, we finally reached Umm
Keis, where we passed a most uncomfortable night in
a sort of cavern, surrounded by snoring fellahin and
coughing goats, and next morning early, proceeding
to the hot springs of El Hammi, took a warm bath,
and arrived before noon once again at Tiberias.

THE END.

HARRISON AND SONS, PRINTERS IN ORDINARY TO HER MAJESTY, ST. MARTIN'S LANE.

,<*r: