Gift of
Addison Van Name
19(0

TRAVELS IN
EUROPE, AFRICA, and ASIA,
MADE
BETWEEN THE YEARS I770 AND I779.
IN FOUR VOLUMES,

VOL. I.
CONTAINING A
VOYAGE TO THE SOUTHERN PARTS OF EUROPE.
AND TO THK
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE IN AFRICA,
JV THE yiARS X770, 1771, I77Z, 1773.

THE THIRD EDITION.

BY CHARLES .PETER 'THUNBERG, M.D,
Kiiiglit of the Order of Vafa, Profeffor of Botany in the Univerfity of Upfal,
and Member of various Academies and l^r;)ed Societies both in
Sweden and other Co.untries.

LONDON:
yHINTED FOR F, AND C, RIVINGTON, N" 62,
ST, pawl's church-yard;
AND SOLD BY W. RICHARDSON, CORNHILL,
AKD T. BGERTON, WHITEHALL,

^795'

PREFACE.

i^O many relations of Travels have already
been obtruded upon the Public, that the
ftielves in the bookfellers fhops are loaded
with them. It might therefore feem needlefs
to add to their number, did not the generality
of them abound more in the marvellous than in
fimple and certain truths j did they not contain
more ridiculous, and, frequendy, infipid narra
tives, than articles of ufeful information; and
did they not fupply more obfcure defcriptions of
animals, plants, and other produftions of na
ture, than plain and intelligible names and chai
raders of thefe different objefts. How often is
the reader's "time wafted in toiling through a
large folio, which fcarcely contains as much ufe
ful matter or real fafts, as would fill a fingle
page! How often has the natural philofopher,
as well as the cultivator of rural ceconomy, fought
ifi vain for ufeful information in many of thefe
booksj for want of underftanding thc barbarous
A 3 names

IV PREFACE,
names of natural objefts, which the author has
mifreported, and frequently did riot conriprehend
himfelf! Is not the nutmeg, of which almoft
all the travellers to the Eaftlndies have made
mention, and which for feveral centuries paft
has formed a confiderable branch of the Euro
pean commerce, h not the genus of this in
a great meafure unknown ? Has not our know
ledge of the animals and plants mentioned i.o
thi; Bible, i book the moft ancient, moft
facred, and moft tmivCirfally fica^ Pf any* ^e^iJ
•yery imperfed till thefe later tirnes, and are
they not even now in fome «ieafure unknown
to us ? An ignorant traveller is apt to cali fq-
reign and uncommon animals by the names of
diofe that he is already acquainted with; and,
cotjfequiehtly, to confider ail the different forts
of wild cats as tigers, and feveral fpecies of the
dog genus 2&foxex, and thus confound xh&jackttUf
QT Samfon's fox*, eifher with the common Eur
r.opean^.jf, or with the ordinary ^a/#r tar, howr
ever diffimilar they are in their qualities.
Every traveller thinks hinnfelf under an obli-.
gation to turn author, and report fomething-
marvellous to his countrymen, although, per
haps, pofleffed of fo fmall a ftock of knowledgf^t
as not to be able himfelf clearly to comprehend
what he has feen or heard, much lefs to give
» Vid. Judges, Chap. XV. others

PREFACE. V
others a diftinfl idea -of it. And this circum<^
ftance alone has produced more unintelligible
books than can eafily be imagined.
Upon the whole then, if relations of travels
can either clear up the obfcurities of ancient
authors, or throw a new light on geography, po
litical hiftory, rural ceconomy, phyfic, natural
philofophy and natural hiftory, and feveral other
fciences, they will certainly not be fuperfluous.
When travellers pafs through countries with
as much knowledge and attention to the objefts
they meet with as fome of the more modem
travellers have done, the. reader in perufing their
books, imagines that he is following them, as
it were, ftep by ftep, and with his own eyes fees
what they have feen. And when every thing is
fet in a clear light, and rendered perfedly intel
ligible, the reader is alyvays' enabled to derive
more or lefs advantage from then).
Many accounts have been publifhed of the
Cape of Good Hope in Africa, and fome of
them in large volumes, in which one may natu-,
rally exped to find every thing mentioned which'
relates to that part of the world, Befides feve
ral detached trads relative to this country*
Kolbe, in 1727, publifhed two folios inD utch,-
which have been tranflated and printed in fe
veral languages, to the no fmall emolumentr
of the bookfellers ; and two other defcriptioiis of

VI preface.
of the Cape, which are little elfe than extrads
ofKoLBE's prolix narrative, with fome few ad
ditions, appeared not long ago in Dutch at
Amfterdam, vi?, in the years 1777 and 1778,
iti. odavo< The cekbrated aftronomer De La
CaIlIe arrived at the Cape in 1751, and left it
in 1753. *^^^ fhort account he gives of the
Cape, confifts, for the moft part, of the relations
of others, and thofe frequently refting upon
very uncertain foundations. The travels of
Profeffor Sparrman, printed at Stockholm in
1783, turn chiefly upon geography and zoology,
6f which Kolbe had treated in the old-falhioned
obfcure manner, fo that zoology has gained con
fiderably by the refearches and difcoveries of that
learned profeffor.
So much, therefore, having been written, and
confequently fo much being known concerning
this country, I might have faved myfelf the
trouble, and my readers the expence of this
publication. But as both my own countrymen,
and alfo feveral foreigners who honour me with
their friendfhip, have frequently fignified to me
their defire of being informed of the events that
have occurred to me, and rhe difcoveries I have
made in my travels, and have, moreover, in
the kindeft manner, encouraged and perfuaded
me to pablifh thefe remarks; I could do no
left' than (at the few leifurc hours I had, after an

PREFACE. vii
an affiduous application to the duties of my
office) colled and put in order the fcattered ob-
fervations I had made in the courfe of my long-
continued and extenfive travels.
With a view of facilitating the publication of
it, I have divided my narrative into three parts ;
the firft of which contains my travels through
Denmark, Holland, and France, my voyage to
the Cape of Good Hope, in Africa, my firft ex
pedition up the coaft of Caffraria, and my refi
dence at the Cape during the two firft winters.
Thtjecond part will contain my fartlier ftay at the
Cape the third winter, and two long journies into
the country of the Caffres, and Namaquas land
northwards. The third will comprize my voyage
to Java and Japan, my refidence there, and jour
ney to the Emperor's court; and farther, my
return by the way of Java, Ceilon, the Cape,
Holland, England, and Germany, to Sweden.
I have carefully avoided introducing into this
narrative any prolix defcriptions (and particu
larly in Latin) of animals or plants, for fear
of tiring out the patience of the generality of
my readers ; but, for the ufe of botanifts and
zoologifts, I have thought proper to fpublifii
them in feparate works; ftill, however, I have
taken care, as far as it rnight be done, to dif-
tinguilh them by their proper and genuine
names. The relations of others which have'
goms

VUI preface.
c.on[je to my ears, I have for the xnoft part fofr
boro to fpeak of, that, nobody might be milled
or confufed by them ; and have therefore merely
given an account of what I myfelf have done,,
feen, or experienced.
I have likewife prefented, in an artlefs unpre
meditated order, the memorandums I had put
down in my journal, thinking it lefs neceflary
as well as lefs ufeful to, write an elegant ro^
mance or a well-compiled hiftory, than to in
troduce naked and fimple truths in the fame
order of time and place as they have occurred
to me. ,
If the reader fhould find any paffages in this?
narrative, that might have been either arranged.
in a better order, or morc elegandy exprefiedi,
he will be pleafed to recoiled, that I neither
had an opportunity of coUeding the materialjS-
for it with a, free and vacant mind, nor of ar
ranging them properly afterwards, having been
for the moft part interrupted and difturbed by
a great variety of other occupations. And if
he will likewife be kind enough to confider,,
on the one hapd, how much in the courfe of
thefe laft nine years I have already written and
publifhed for the advancement of the fcience I
profefs, and, on the other, the almoft innu
merable occupations in which I have beea
engaged, as. well, with refped to the inftruc, tion

PR-EFAtE. ix
tion of the ftudents, as to the arrangement and
making catalogues of various botanic gardens^
and more particularly of different coUedions of
natural hiftory, I cannot but hope for his favour
and indulgence.
In this volume, I am perfuaded, various par
ticulars relative to the Cape will be found to be
mentioned and illuftrated, which have beeii en
tirely paffed over by others; and many ufeful
and important propofitions are advanced with
refped to rural oeconomy, natural hiftory, me
dicine, geography, and natural philofophy, which
were my principal objeds, as alfo on the fubjed
of hiftorical geography, according to the dif-
fererice of countries and circuraftances. But in
all thefe a great degree of perfedion cannot be
expeded, when one travels through regions, lit
tle better than deferts ; when one runs with the
greateft rapidity through whole provinces, where
the natives are almoft wild, where not the leaft
trace of literature or civilization is to be feen,
and where all nature is enveloped in the fwad-.
dling clothes of fimplicity and ignorance.
Befides geographical obfervations, the phyfic*
cal knowledge of countries, together with the
different inftitutions for arts and fciences, politi
cal and ceconomical eftablilhments, architedure,.
the different cuftoms and ways of living of diff>
ferent nations, the reader will find I have prin
cipaUy.

PREFACE.

cipally had in view the various difcoveries, that
may have been made, for the benefit of man
kind, in natural hiftory, phyfic, and rural as
well as domeftic ceconomy; three fciences to
which I am very much attached. And in con
fequence of thefe my endeavours, which I flatter
myfelf have not been entirely fruitlefs, I have
been. enabled to propofe, in this firft part of my
travels, the following natural produds, as being
ufeful, and moft of them unknown before :—
viz. Js efculent and fit for food, the Cavia Ca
penfis, Hyftrix, Myrmecophaga, Gladiolus pli-
catus, the roots of ATiife and of Gatagay, the
Aponogeton diftachyon, Arduina bifpinofa, Me
fembryanthemum edule, Euclea undulata, Stre-
litfia, Vitis vitiginea, Salicornia fruticofa, Zamia.
Caffi'a, Guaiacum Afrum, Albuca major, and the
Myrica. As tried and ajyproved medicines for various
difeafes, hath internal and external: The Ardopus
echinatus, various fpecies of Geranium, the Bry
onia Africana, Afclepias undulata and crifpa, the
Eriocephalus, Hasmanthus coccineus. Polygonum
barbaturri, Crotalaria perfoliatia. Piper Capenfe,
Fagara Capenfis, Mefembryanthemum edule, Of-
mitis camphorina and afterifcoides, the Adonis
Capenfis, Atrageneveficatoria,AdianthumiEthio-
picum,Protea meltifera and grandiflora, the Oxalis
cernua, Tulbaghia, Montiniar, Turde's blood, the
p.icinus communis, Solarium nigrum, Sonchus
oleraceus.

PREFACE. XI
gleraceus, craffula tetragona, lycoperdon carci-
pomale, and the feriphium.
As tifeful for the purpofes of domeftic and rural
ceconomy.
For rop^s, tlje rind of the anthyllis,
|i'or hafons or bowls, tortoife-fhells.
For window-blinds and chairs, ratans.
For tobacco, the cannabis fativa.
For tinder, the bupleyrum giganteum.
For tea, the bor.bonia cordata.
For coffee, the brabejum ftellafym.
Yor foap, the falfola aphylla.
For candles, the myrica cordifolia and querci-
folia. For trumpets, the fucus buccinalis.
For brooms and thatching, the reftio dichot9-
mus. For mats and tl)at.ching, the cyperus textilis. ,
For fences and folds for cattle, the mimofa
nilotica, arduina bifpinofa, galenia Africana.
For quickfet hedges, the aloe fuccotrina, zygp-
phyllum morgfana, quince, apple and pear
tree, hawthorn, euonymus, willow, rofe bufhe^
laramble, yew-tree, elm, holly, box, lime-tree,
dogwood, honeyfuckle, cherry-tree, cercis, fili-
quaftrum, lycium barbarum, maple, coronilla
iiecuridaca^ lilac, oak, laurel, and myrtle; to
which may be added, as borders in gardens, the
£fiin-bones of fheep. For

'xii •p^RErAci.
For fuel,, the pi-bt^af' graridiflbra, coWdca*^,
hirta, fpeciofa,/ melHfera,= and argentea, wi«h
various fpecies of eiricae and brunia:.
For various tools- and utenfils, camaffie wood,
the ilex crocea, olea Capenfis asid Europea,
ftink hout, the gardenia l^hunblergia, the bam
boo, and the curtifia.
Though I cannot flatter nrtyfelf that eVery
thing in this journal wiU be equally pleafiflg to
all of my readers, or that all my reader^* will
be able to derive the fame advantage front the
perufel of it; yet I am inclined to hope,"^that
fomething wiU continually occur in it w^ich
win prove either entertaining or inftrudivte' to
every one of them. And nhce the twb firft
volumes, which treat cliiefly of the Cape" and
the Hottentots (a country and people in Whi'^eh
art has improved but little upon the Wild Sim
plicity of nature) cannot poffibly be as intereft-
ing as the third, which will contain delations and
obfervations receding a civilized nation, that
has both a regular gover'nrneht arid' ofher godd
. inftitutions, and' even vies With the' Europeans
themfelves ; I prfefume the reader wiU not inn-
pute this circumftance to any wiaht' of atten
tion in me, but to the country itfelf and tl^c
natives, thdt could not poffibly prefent more
materials to an. attiehtive^ traveller,' than they
adually poffeffed.
3 TRAVELS

TRAVELS

I N

Europe, africa, and asia.

JOURNEY TO DENMARK, I77O.
AFTER having fpent nine years at the Uni
verfity of Upfal, the moft refpedable in
Sweden, and paffed the ufual examinations for
taking the Degree of Dodor of Phyfic, I ob*
tained from the Academical Confiftory the Koh-
rean Penfion for travelling, which, in the fpace
of three years, amounts to 3,800 Copper Dol
lars *, and with my own Kttle ftock, enabled me
to undertake a journey to Paris, with a view to
my farther imprbveriient in Medicine, Surgery,
and Natural Hiftory.
Onthe 13th oi Juguft, 1770, leaving t^^/,
I paffed thtm^ Stotkhoim, Johnhping, Halm-
Jiadt, md Eslfihgborg, to Elftneur, whither I
was accompanied by M. Barkenmeyer, an
* About 45I. 1 6s. 8d. aerUng. [T.j
VOL, I. B Apothe-

a JOURNEY TO DENMARK, 177^'
Apothecary, who, during my ftay at Helfingborgi
had fhewn me many civihties.
On the i^th of September, I left my native
country, little thinking that I fhould not return
td it, tiU I had fpent nine years in travelling
through the remoteft regions. During my -paf
fage acrofs the Sound, the innumerable fhips
under fail refembled a vaft foreft; and thofe
that lay in the road, appeared like a town float
ing on the water. At Kronoburg, they pay a
toll, which is levied by the Danes on aU other
nations. Of this toll Sweden cannot partake,
on account of the fhoal water contiguous to her
coafts, which yearly becomes fhallower from a
continual accumulation of fand, grafs-wrack,
(Zoftera), and Sea-weed (Fuci), near Helfing-
borg. As there was no fhip in the road of Elfineur
ready to fail for Amfterdam, I refolved in the
mean time to make a trip the fame day to Co
penhagen, by the common-ftage cart.* Thc
road was very pleafant. After travelling a great
way along the fhore, and afterwards through
thick forefts of beech and oak, we entered the
King's Park, in which, I underftood, it was a
capital offence to difchargc fire-arms. By the
* In feme parts of Germany and the North of Europe, ''
they travel chiefly in carts, the roads being too rough for
chaifes or coaches. [T.]
9 road-

JOURNEY to DENMARK, I770. 3
roaid-fide, efpeciaUy near Copenhagen, there
wfere very fine avenues of horfe-chefnut trees,
(.Mfculus Hippocaftanum), the trunks of which
had been wreathed, when young, into a fpiral
form at the bottom. Vines were pretty nume
rous in the hedges.
At Copenhagen I viewed the Botanical Gar
den, which they were juft then removing. I
aifo vifited the Hofpital, which, together with
its Difpenfary, I was told, was founded by the
late unfortunate Queen, and now contained
about 200 patients ; at the fame time I viewed
feveral private Mufeums.
The Profeffors Zoega and Fabricius, who
a few years before had been my friends and fel
low ftudents at Upfal, were the firft whom I
enquired after, Befides other civilities^ they
gave me free accefs to the Botanical Garden,
and their own private CoUedions, particularly
Profeffor Fabricius, whofe CoUedion of infeds
was well worthy of attention, Thefe gentlemen
would certainly have rendered my ftay at Co
penhagen longer, as well as more agreeable and
more advantageous to myfelf, had they not been
under the neceffity of going, in the afternoon of
that fame day, on bufinefs of importance to
Slefwick. The ftreets of Copenhag(?n are paved at the
fides with flag ftones, for the convenience of
B 2 foot

4 jot;RNEy TO Denmark, 1770.
foot pafferigers; and there are planks over the
kennels. The houfes have fiink ftories, in which
the inhabitants generally live.
Having viewed feveral remarkable things in
the City, fuch as the Royal Palace, the Uni
verfity, Frederick's Square, the Exchange, the
Quay, the Port, '&c. I hafiened back towards
Elfineur, in a return-cart, which was to convey
me only part of my way, after which I was to
proceed in a ftage-'cart; but having got near
the Park, it being Sundav riight, aU the inns
were fo full of people, including ladies, as well
with natural as artificial complexions, who had
crouded together from all quarters to fpehd thc
Sunday evening here in fiddling afid dancingj
that I could neither get hdrfeS^, nor a room to
fleep iri for the night. And as the amufement
of this noify rout had no great charms fbr me,
I refolved to walk away with my botanical
knapfack under my arm, to fbme inn farthfe'r
on. But not knowing a ftep ©f the road, and
having no guide, I loft my way in the Park;
when, darknefs overtaking me, 1 was obliged to
repofe under a large tree, with the fky for liiy
canopy, in the company of aniisials both tame
and wild. The next morning I refumed my
journey on foot, and, it being a fine warm day^
found my cloak, which had proteded me in
the night againft the cold,, vei-y heavy ahd
trouble-

JOURNEY TO DENMARK, I770. 5
troublefome. Towards noon I arrived at an
inn, where I procured a carriage, in which I
proceeded to Elfineur.
I could plainly perceive, that near the fl:iore
the land has gained upon the water, by means
of fand and fea-weed (fuci), though much lefs
than on the Swedifh fide, Hence it appears
evident, that thc found is already become nar
rower, and probable, that, its breadth will b.e
progreffively contraded. On the fliore I found
feveral fpecies of fucus, zoftera, and falfola, as
alfo mufcles (mytilus edulis')* By the fides of
the roads were feveral fine gardens, many of
them adorned v/ith arbours of ever-greens.
The houfes in Elfineur are built either en^
tirely of bricks, or. as in Hallahd in Sweden,
of wooden frames, with the fpaces fiUed up with
bricks. The numerous fountains that are feen
in the fquares, and in feveral ftreets of the town,
are no lefs ufeful than ornamental; fo that
water may conveniently be had in a place, where,
in other refpeds, dearth herfelf feems to have
fixed her head quarters.
At my return to Elfineur, I foon found a
veffel bound for Amfterdam, which had juft
arrived from Pillaw with corn. In her I fet -fail
on the I %th of September, and foon loft fight
of the Swedifh a^d Danifh Coafts. On the
21ft, we were obliged, by a heavy gale of con-
B 3 trary

,6 TRIP TO ISJORWAY, I77p.
.^< trary wind, to put into a harbour in Norway,
.about twenty miles from Fredrickfliamn, where,
among others, I found a Swedifh fhip. The
mountains and the fhore round this little har
bour, are frightfully precipitous. The watqr
near the fhore abourided with ftar-fifli {afterias),
fuci, ulvffi, barnacles (Jepades), cray-fifh {can-
ceres), and other ndarine anirnals. The Lob-
ftershere (^gammarus), were not much efteem-
ed. Every' thing v/as as cheap here, as it was
dear at Elfineur. The mountains produced,
at this feafon ofthe year, npthing but the Silene
rupefiris (a fpecies of catch-fly), and a kind of
rofe, togtether with {empetrum nigrum) or crow*
berries, ' '*f '" ' '
On the 24th wc failed with a fair wind ; bu^
foon again were oppofed by a ftorm and con-»
trary wind with rain, which lafted^ for feveral
days, fo that we faw nothing but thick clouds
and the fea, the green waves of which frequently
broke ovei" our' little veffel, and rendered the
deck extremely f)ippery.
The diet of the crew of a Dutch fhip Is
ftrong and nutritive, confifting of the feeds of
French beans, with' fweet and four fauce; ftock-
fifh, with muftard and potatoes ; ftewed grey,
and boiled yellow peas ; thick flummery, made
of coarfe-ground barley, with fome fat in it;
piidding, with fat and treacle; and coarfe fou,f
Difltch

VOYAGE TO HOLLAND, I77O, 7
Dutch bread, with butter and a, flice of cheefe.
They drink tea and coffee feveral times a day
the former in general ftrong, and fometimes
mixed with a little faffron, efpeciaUy in bad
weather; but the coffee is made weak, moftly
without any fugar, always without milk or
cream : 'of both they drink plentifully, to the
quantity of ten or twelve cups at a time.
The Captain and myfelf were the only perfons
on board who were indulged with a little fugar-
candy, when we drank our coffee, together with
Englifh wheat-bread for our bread and butter,
and rice gruel with raifins and butter in it.r —
Butchers-meat and bacon are always eaten with
muftard. Brandy is feldom drank, except a
pilot comes on board, or the weather is very
bad. Wine is ftill lefs common. They take
out beer with them, indeed, in earthen veffels,
but do not often drink any ; fb that their food
is flrong and dry, and not a little greafy. —
GleanUnefs and neatnefs is the great objed of
their attention on board their fhips, which they
are perpetuaUy fcrubbing and painting.
On the ift of OSlober we arrived off the
Coaft of Holland. The Ifland of Texel firft
prefented itfelf to us, and a pilot came on board
to condud us to Amfterdam. Here was an
infinite number of fhips, men of war, Eaft
and Weft Indiamen, and fmaller yeffiis, fbme
B 4 at

S VOYAGE TO HOLLAND, 1770.
at anchor, others failing in aU diredions ; all
which could not but prove an enchanting fight
to an eye that was not accuftomed to fuch
profpeds. On the ad, having arrived at the little town
of Bergen, we were ordered, on pain of deat4i,
not to 'go on fhore, becaufe the fhip came from
PiUaw, on the borders of Poland, and was fuf-
peded of being' infeded with t;he plague.?—
Though I had come as a paffenger, not from
PiUaw, but from Elfineur, yet my trunks were
brought on fliare, to be kept in quarantain ;
but the fhip, with its crew, was permitted to
fail to Amfterdam. A furgeon, however, canie
prevloufly on board, to enquire into the ftate
of our health, and for the trouble of feelins
the pulfes of five perfons, fairly pocketed his
ducat, by way of convincing me and a few
poor failors of the profits attending his pro-
feffion. In the continuation of our voyage towards
Amfterdam, on the Zuyderzee, we frequently
met with iflands almoft covered with towns. —
The horizon was fkirted with forefts of fliips
faiUng different ways, and forming the moft
beautiful fca-piece. The tide here, on its
changes, fqrms long and irregular fpots of
frpooth water. In this fea we fpent feveral
days in failing Uttle m,o.re than fifty, rhiles, as

VOYAGE TO HOLLAND, I77O. 9
as the wind at beft was faint, fo that we were
for the moft part obliged paffively to obey the
diredion of the current. During our frequent
calms, the crew were fo earneftiy employed in
fcouring, wafhing, and painting, that they did
not even leave the dog's kennel unpainted. I
had at this time alio the pleafure of feeing a
large veffel brought out by camels, * to the
Texel ; a method which they make ufe of, on
account of the low water, to convey large veffels
from the city into deep water. In this fea I faw
nothing deferving the attention of a naturalift,
but large maffes of feed-weed {zoftera) floating
about. On the 5th, towards evening, we arrived at
the populous and fplendld commercial city of
Amfterdam, which extends along the fhore in
the form of a crefcent. The harbour is crouded
with an incredible number of fhips. The
largeft veffels lie fartheft from, and the fmalleft
neareft to, the city, according to the depth of
the water ; and in fuch order, that they form a
kind of waU feveral rows deep ; and their num-
* The camels are two very large lighters, nearly full of
water, between which, large fliips that have been built at
Amfterdam are msde faft. The water is then pumped out of
the lighters; and thus, by their buoyancy, the intermediate
veffel is fufficiently- raifed to pafs over the bar, which, being
a fecurity agaioft a hoftile fleet, is fuffered to remain. [T]
I bers

.IO AMSTERDAM, I770«
bers are fuch as to intercept the view of the
i'.city. Within thefe the city is bordered, with
feveral rows of piles, off which fmaller craft andl
lighters can lie, and run up through their open<j
jngs and bridges. Both towards the water fide,
and in the city itfelf, the banks ofthe canals are
faced with brick-work, to which boats and fmaU
yeffels can lay their fides.
The houfes are in general very neat and ele
gant, though not always equaUy convenient.—
Every where they are nearly uniform and regu
larly built of brick, five ftories high, with pitch-
roofs covered with tiles. The gable ends are
towards the ftreet, and flope off, as it were, by
fteps, which give the houfes a nobler appear
ance, than when the flope of the roofs is next
to the ftreet. The hoyfes have ip general-.a
bafement, or fijnk ftory, which is made ufe of
for work-fhops, kitchens, and fornetimes for
dwelling apartment^. The windows immedi
ately above the ftreet are very high, and in two
divifions, as they give light both to the firft
floor, and to that beneath it, which in moft of
the common houfes appear externally to form
but one ftory. The walls are very thin, on ac
count of the bad foundatibns in that marf^y
foil : and five ftories in Amfterdarn arc harcl}y
fo high as three in Stockholm. The infide of
the apartments, and ftill more frequently of
the

AMSTERDAM, 1770. II
'.the anti-chambers and paffages, and fometimes
even of the churches, is covered with fmall
fquares of Delft ware, and the floors are laid
with white and other njarble. The houfes in
general ftand upon litde ground, and have but
few apartments, often but onp on a floor, excepp
in certain quarters of the town, where the houfes,
in point of fize and magnificence, referable pa
laces. The water is conduded to and from
every ftreet and houfe, by meaps of jittle co
vered channels communicating wUh tbe large
canals. Throughout Holland chimnies are gCr
neraUy ufed; ftoves are but fcarce, the great
utility of them being as -yet little known in that
country, where turfi which is their moft com
mon fuel, is probably unfi.f to heat them, and
its fumes, if prevented by ftoves from having
a free exit, might be dangerous. The ftreets
are paved in the middle with oblong granites of
the beft fort, and at ^ach fide with hard yellow
bricks, or, as they are there called, clinkers.
Plofe to the- houfe, the ftreet is laid as far as
the outer fteps projed, with white marble flabs,
or blue lime-ftone. Though all the ftones for
paving are imported, yet in no other place do
we meet either with fuch choice ftones, or
ftreets fo well paved ; befides that, the pavement
or clinkers at the fide of the houfes, which i.s
daily walhed, is very agreeable to the foot- paf
fenger.

12 AMSTERDAM, I770.
fenger, who is thus, not only fecured from the
inroads of carriages and horfes, but likewife
avoids being befpattered with dirt. Wheel-
carriages are very little ufed here, except by
phyficians, who are obliged to make difj^atch
in vifiting their patients ; and who ufe large
chaifes with high wheels, drawn either by one
or two horfes.
The coaches, or rather fledges, are drawn by
one horfe upori Aiders, by which means the
houfes are not fhaken, nor the ftreets foiled.—
Goods are alfo conveyed on fledges, or on a
kind of wheel- barrow.
The whole city is interfcded with canals, on
which goods are conveyed in craft of a moderate
fize. On each fide, rows of trees are planted,
with lamps placed between them. Many of the
lanes and alleys interfeding tbe ftreets, are very
narrow. At the fame time that the eye of the ftranger
is entertained with viewing elegant buildings
and other objeds worthy of attention, the ear
is charmed with the mufic of the chiming
clocks in the Stadt-houfe, or town-hall, and of
almoft every church fteeple in the city. They
chime a little at the end of every fifth minute ;
longer at every quarter of an hour; and every
hour juft before the clock ftrikes, they play- an
entire piece.
Among

AMSTERDAM, 177O. I3
Among the chief and moft remarkable build
ings, is the Stadt-houfe, the Cuftom-houfe, and
the Exchange ; the firft of which is fcarcely to
be paralleled. The outfide of the Stadt-houfe
is faced with free-ftone : in the firft floor is a
large and lofty hall, the walls of which are deco
rated with marble of different kinds, and with
feveral marble ftatues.
In fo large and populous a city, where {a
rriuch bufinefs is tranfaded, the ftreets of courfe
are noify. The mode of crying fruit, milk,
&c. in the ftreets, faves the inhabitants much
trouble. Iminediately on my entering the city,
I met a man with a ratde, which is a fignal
every morning to the inhabitants to bring out
their afhes, 8rc. to be conveyed away in large
carts, which have feparate divifions for every
kind of foil ; this regulation prevents the canals
from being choaked up with dirt, and the air
from generating putrid difeafes.
The inhabitants enjoy a degree of liberty,
which is equally diftant from reftraint and licen-
tioufriefs. Perfons in a coftly or in a mean drefs,
are equally exempted from refledions.— With
out ceremonioufly regarding either perfons or
Occafions, they keep on their hats in thc houfe,
and even at church.
In like manner every one, whatever may bc
his religion or country, is at liberty to earn his
livelihood

14- AMSTERDAM, I77O.
livelihood in any way; fb that it be but honeft;
that he may think proper ; and without being]
checked in bis'purfuits by corporations, mono
polies, or exclufive privileges; Stfahgers arC;
likewife exempted from being vifited, milch
lefs Ul- treated, by toll- gatherers in this' country;
where happUy no land-toUs * exifti
The day after my airival, fevefal crlminals'i
were punifhed on a ftage ereded near, the Stadt-
houfe ; one of them was broke on the wheel;i
and the reft, whipped. The magiflrates; in
their official drefs^, viewed the execution from
the windows of the Stadt-houfe. It appeared to
add great folemnity to the punifhment, that
thofe who had tried and condemned the offen-*
ders, fhould themfelves fupcrintend the execa-
tion ; not, as in Sweden,' where it is committed.
to an inferior officer; whofe ignorance of this.
important duty often renders him either too mild,"..
or too fevere, . ¦f
In my landlord's houfe I obferved a very in
genious method of teaching children to walk. —
A ribband was faftened under the child's arms,
which paffed through a ring that flid on a long
iron rod fixed horizontally in the roof, fo that the
child could walk backwards and forwards along.
• In this, very different frora Sweden, where certain'
taxes are levied upon all forts of goods entering the inland
towns and fea ports. [T.] .,
the

AMSTERDAM, 177O. ir
the room, without faUing or taking up the time
of ati attendant.
On the 9/^ of O£loher, I vifited the Pro-
feflbrs, Meffrs, Burmanns, who received me
ift a very friendly manner. In my daily vifits
to them, I had not only the pleafure of furvey-
ing their different and numerous .coUedions in
natural hiftory, and the advantage of their
valuable library, in which the late celebrated
LiNN.(Eus put the laft hand to his Bibliotheca
Botanica, but was likewife invited every day to
their tables, and requefted to examine and give
names to a great number of unknown minerals,
infeds, and plants, particularly of the grafs and
mofs kind,
¦Here were fbme exquifitely beautiful petri-
fadions and corals ; and the Library, fo far as
related to Medicine and Natural Hiftory, might
be faid to be quite complete. This rendered
iiry^ay at Amfterdam both agreeable and ufe
ful; and notwithftanding the advanced feafon,
I fhould not have haftened from thence, had I
not been deprived of my Utrie ftock of clothes
and books, which, in my opinion, were both
unjuftly and imprudently kept in quarantain. —
It could not but be imprudent, to fuffer a
fhip fufpeded of infedion, to enter a harbour
crouched with fliips, and the crew to frequent the
towns freely for feveral days, and afterwards to
fend

'6 AMSTERDAM, I77O.
fend the fhip and cargo back to the Texel to
perform quarantain. It appeared likewife to
be unjuft, when there were no fymptoms of in
fedion on board, to detain the trunks of a paf
fenger, who did not come from the fufpeded
place, contrary to every ufage on fuch occafions.
This condud excited my pity for a govern--
ment, that. On fo ferious and delicate a con-
jundure, muft frequendy entruft the execution
of' its orders to igrtorant and imprudent offi
cers. I endeavoured, by means of an applica
tion to the Swedifli agent, M. Baillerie, to
procure from the admiralty an order to deliva:
up my trunks ; but all I could obtain, was a
permit to get them at pafling the Texel, if I
fhould chufe to take a paffage for France.—
Thus I was obliged to change my route, and
fubjeded to confiderable incoh'venience and ex-
pence. In the mean time, I determined to travel
about In Holland, and view fome of their many
ciiriofities, coUedions of natural hiftory, and
gardens. On the 15//& of Oglo£ler, I went out in a
carriage with Profeffor Burmann, to a coun
try houfe of his, near Amfterdam. His garden
is finely laid out in the EngUfh tafte. The'
hedges were formed of yew (jaxus), hoUy
{ilex), beech (fagus), and oaks (juert^ii).
Among

AMSTERDAM AND LEYDEN, I770. 17
Among the many rare plants now in bloom,
were the amaryllis, ceilanica, and gladiolus triftis.
In the wUdernefs I obferved, among others,
the kalmia latifolia, the ^efculus pavia (or fcarlet
horfe-chefnut tree); the clethra alnifolia, and
the magnolia grandiflora.
At eight in the evening I went in the treck-
fchuyt (or paffage-boat) to Leyden. Thefe
boats are generally ufed for travelling In Hol
land, where the whole Country is interfeded
with Canals. They are very long, and tilted
oy^r, to fhelter the paffengers from the weather :
at one end is a cabin, which the fkipper fome
times hires out to fuch perfons as wifh to fleep,
or to fit feparate from the common people.—
Thefe boats always fei out on a certain day and
hour, and arrive with the fame regularity at the
places of their deftiriation. In the middle they
have a maft, to the top of which Is faftened a
rope, iby which a horfe draws the boat. When
the wind is favourable to them, they make fail;
and the helm in both cafes regulates the motion.
Every paffenger Is entitled to bring as much
baggage as he can Carry, without any extra
charge. As foon as the boat has fet off, the
paffage-money Is paid, which, confidering the
cafe and convenience of this mode of traveUing,
is very trifling.
VOL. I, C The

l8 LEYDEN, 1770.
The firft thing I did in the morning of the
i&th of Off ober, was to vifit Profeffor David
Van 'Royen, who fhowcd me his coUedbn of
plants fnoip .the:Gape of Good Hope, and an
other which had. lately been fent him from C^y-;
lon. I next viewed the cabinet of natural hif^
topy that was committed to thc care of Profeffiar
All am AND; as alfo the botanic garden, where
I procured many rare plants for my own hortut
ficcus, and- feeds and roots for the gardea at
Upfal. f The botanic garden Is fituated near the
univerfity, and is furroynded with a ftone waB^"
Thbugh'Bo^ very extenfive, it is' faeat and ele
gant, dividbd' into ftevesral -quarters, and well
fumifked with- curioMs plants. On three fides it
is inclofed by the univeffity, the apartments of
the botanical profeffor, and of the gardener, . the
cabinet of natural hiftory, and other neceflary^
buildings. ' ^- -••¦ '^
Among other things worthy of attention, I waiS'
fhown a hortus ficcm, compofed fbr the ufe of the
l^uwr, of all the plants that had flowered in the
garden. Thjs is certainly a prbof of the profeffor's '
zeal for the fcience he teaches, and fsr the imr
provement of thc ftudents. At the gardener'si;
Nicol asMkerbourg, I faw- alfo feveral finefpeci-
mens of animals preferved inJpipItsiof wine ; as well*
•as of plants and infeds, of which^ latter I bought« and

LEYDEN, 1770. I J
and procured by exchange, feveral American
and Eaft Indian butterflies.
The houfes at Leyden have the fame external
appearance as at Amfterdam, but have no funk
ftories. The edifice of the univerfity is divided into
feparate apartments or ledure-rooms; the chairs
are fmaU, and there are benches with defks be
fore them fbr the ftudents.
The library is neaft, though neither large nor
much decorated. — ImiTiedlately under It, is the
anatomical theatre.
1 paid a vifit to the learned and aged Ubra-
rlan, Gronovius, was well received, and heard
him beftow great encomiurtis on the learned
affeffor, Sv/EukitioRG, '<li?ho a few weeks befbr^
had gone frbm thertce to England.
I alfo vifited ihe fenator (fcabintis)' GRONb^
vius, a ¦very polite and ehe.erful, as well as
learned man/ who, notilvlthftanding his many
eCCupattions, fhowcd me his valuable coUedions
of corals, fiflies; amphibious animals, infeds',
minerals, plants, and books. The bottles that
contained the fpedmens of animals preferved'
in fpirits of wine, were covered with a glafS-
pfate and a red cement, the coqspofitioh of
which was comrnunicated to me. It anfWered'
the purpofe fo well, that the fpirits appeared not
ii> have evaporated much, though they had been
C 2 leyen

ao LEYTJEN, 1770.
even years in the bottles. Thefe muft be filled
in the fummer, and not in the fpring, -left the
glafs- plate fliould be broke by the ^arefadion
of the air. Among the minerals were many
which had been fent him from Sweden, by M.
GoTHER. Speaking of iron ores, he gave it as
his opinion, that all iron was native, that was
attraded by the load-ftone.
I went to fee the gardep of that celebrated
fiorlft. Van Hazen, in the neighbourhood of
Leyden. This gendeman fends yearly many
thoufands of roots, feeds, and fhrubs, to diffe-(
rent countries.
In, the evening I walked to Zudwyk, where I
^et with a hear.ty welcome from , a Mr. Vitt-
BOM, a Swedifli gardener ; here I depofitcd the
plants which I had purchafed at Leyden, for
the garden of Upfal, to be fent over the foUow-
irig fpring. The elegant garden which ViTf-
BOM fuperintended, was the, property of Count
Hahn, and was ornamented with viftoes,
hedges, grottos, fountains, canals, Englifh fumr.,
mer-houfesi Chinefe temples and bridges, and
other decorations. As for walls, it needed no
other than the deep canals by which it was fur-
rounded, and which are the ufual boundaries. of
property In this country, thc very cattle, never,
attempting to fwim over them.
On

HAGUE, 1770, 21
On the t&th of Goober, in the morning, I
took a walk to the Hague. The road is heavy
and fandy, but is rendered agreeable by large
cuts, or canals, ornamented with avenues of
trees or cut hedges, and furrounded with a va
riety of beautiful feats. By the road -fide grew
poplars (populus alba), alders (betula alnus),
common broom (fpartium fcoparium), German
broom (genifta Germanica), reed canary-grafs
(phalaris arundinacea), &c. The public houfes,
which were by no means few, were plentifully
fupplied with ale, wine, and mead.
I paffed the palace of the Prince, near the
Hague, which is decorated with an elegant gar
den. Before I arrived at the town, I viewed the
phyfic-garden, which, though finali, contains
fbme very curious plants.
The Hague is a handfome town; the houfes
being larger than they ufually arc in HoUand,
bear a greater refemblance to thofe of Paris or
Stockholm, and the flope of the roofs, which
have no gable ends, is towards the ftreet. The
fquares are tolerably large, and ornamented with
trees. Throughout all HoUand turf is their ufual
fuel. Their chimneys have no regifter for open
ing and fhutting the vent, which, as well as
ftoves, the Dutch do not think adapted to a
damp country, being of opinion that it would
C 3 render

:?2 AMSTERDAM, 1770.
render them more fubjed to gout and rheuma-
tifnti ; but the true reafon probably is, their want
of wood, which Is very fcarce and dear, and turf
i? not proper for heating ftoves. Turf is feme-
times fold by rhe ton, and fometimes by tale ; it
has a difagreeable fmeUlike that of greafe, which
excites a head-ach and naufea in perfons unac-
cuftomed to it, It is cut into oblong fquares ;
and though it burns flowly, and muft be kindled
with wood, it throws out a ftrong heat.
At half paft three in the afternoon, I went in
a treckfchuyt to Amfterdam, where I arrived at
fix the next morning. Whenever the boats ftopt
at the inns, feveral women came up to us to feU
us bread, fifli, and other refrefhraents.
The country, between the Hague and Am
fterdam, is very agreeably interfperfed with nu
merous gentlemens' feats, fituated on each fide
of the canal, and adorned with elegant gardens
and fjummer-houfes. The walls of their houfes
are frequently covered all over with ivy {hederd),^
and the box trees and hedges are formed by the
Ihears into a thoufand fantaflic figures,
While I was waiting for a veffel to convey,
rne to Rouen, I daily vifited Profeffor Bur-
HANN, and; made ufe of his library, and cabi
net of natural hifl^ry. Here I perceived thp.
unfpeakable advatitage of a profeffor having a
library fo near at hand, vyhich afforcis hjnj, an,
oppor-

AMSTERDAM, .I770. 23
opportunity of arranging it in fclentific order,
and of comparing the different fubjeds in his
coUeftion with the figures and defcriptions of
different authors, of which it is frequendy .ne
ceffary to confult not only one or two, but a
hundred. The largeft public libraries are, in
this refped, lefs ufeful, becaufe they are opened
and fhown only on certain days, and that fre
quently under the infpedion of one librarian
only, who cannet be fuppofed to intereft himfelf
in accommodating his vifitors with books in all
the branches of fcience alUce, or with fuch a
number of them as is often neceffary ; not to
mention the inconvenience of frequent appli
cations. Thefe important confiderations render
it advifeable for profeffors to furnifh themfelves,
as far as they are able, with libraries of their
own ; and alfo fhow, that notwithftanding all
that has been faid of the utility of large public
libraries, much is wanting to render them as
extenfively ufeful as Is pretended. — Among the
many fcarce books Itcontained, wereRuMPHius's
fhells and fifhes, coloured. In large fclio, drawn at
Amboyna, by Rumphius the fon ; the original
drawings of Petiver's plants; Merina's co
loured drawings of butterflies; Rumphius's
planta Amhoynenfes, alfo coloured, &c. I like-
wife attentively examined his various collec
tions of dried plants, from the Eafi attd Weft
C 4 Indies,

• 24 'Amsterdam; 177*'
Indies, and Africa, but efpecially thofe of Her-
MANNUsandOLDENLANDius, which were bound.
And as I arranged and defcribed feveral plants
belonging to the moft comprehenfive genera,
fuch as Ixia, Erica, Afpalathus, &c. Profeffor
Burmann mentioned, that he would procure
me an opportunity of making a vbyage cither
to Surinam, or the Cape of Good Hope, at the
expence of the States. I teftified my fenfe of
his friendly offer in the beft manner I was able,
and told him I would gladly accept it, and that
I had no, objedion to fpend a few years in an
expedition of this kind ; at the fame time I could
not help expreffing my furprife, that he fhould
place fb much confidence in a ftranger, whom
he had known only for a few days. In anfwer
to this, he affured me, that from the time that
he had paffed a fummer at the univerfity of
Upfal, he had conceived, and ftiU entertained,
a great partiality for the Swedifh nation, and
that he had taken a great liking to me in par
ticular, on finding with what readinefs I named
and defcribed a great number of his non-de-
fcripts, a circumftance, which, he was pleafed to
fay, fiUed him with aftonifliment.
The profeffor at this time complained, that
his falary was fo fmaU, that it barely paid his
houfe-rent, and that confequently he was obliged
to fupport himfelf by his medical pradice, whicb,

AMSTERDAM, I77O. 35
which, being pretty extenfive, took off his at
tention from a ftudy, to which he was more
inclined, and which was the proper objed of his
profefforfhip. Here I could not help tacitly
congratulating the profeffors in the Swedifh
univerfities, who are not under the neceffity of
dividing their attention between the cares of
their fubfiftence, and their proper employment,
the inftrudion of youth.
I now alfo took a view of the phyfic-garden,
and the different hofpitals in and about Am
fterdam. The botanic-garden Is fituated near
the town, is large and elegant, and contains fe
veral large orangeries and hot-houfes, and a
great number of fucculent plants, and other cu
rious produdions from the Cape, The great
American aloe (agave Americana) was in full
bloflbm, and fhown every day for money. Of
the city hofpital, Profeffor Burmann, jun. had
been for fome tirae before appointed chief phy
fician. In the room of his father, whofe great
age had obliged him to retire from his office.
Seven or eight hundred patients were faid to be
fupported here. Two woraen were generally in
a bed, and the beds were aU nurabered. In the
mornlng-vlfits, the number of the patient was
put down on a flate, with the medicine pre-
fcribed to them for that day. The difpenfary
©f the hofpital was contiguous to it. The laza retto

26 AMSTERDAM, 1770,.
retto (or pcft-houfe) is fituated at feme diftance
from the town.
The air of this low country was at this time
very damp and unwholefome. The air would
not keep in curl without the help of pins ; and
plants could not be dried otherwife than before
the fire. The atmofphere bore an appearance
fimllar to the exhalations of a bath ; there often
feU a drizzling rain, attended fometimes with a
fog, fo thick as to occafion imprudent people
to faU into the canals. A very fingular phasno-
menon is fometimes obferved, caufed by an ex
halation altogether opake fuddenly arifing, and
as this fubfides, which it generaUy does in a
fhort time, at firft only the heads of the foot-
paffengers are to be feen, and afterwards their
bodies gradually come into view. Catarrhal fe
vers (febres catarrhales) alfb now began to pre
vaU. During the cold feafon, women of the mid
dling ftation in life kept themfelves warm by
means of chafing-difhes, containing live coals of
turf, placed in perforated boxes on thc floor,
under their clothes.
As the Dutch in general arc great fmokers,
a neceffary part of the furniture of every fitting-
room, is a copper chafing-difti, with live coals
of turf to light their pipes, and a fpitting-box, with

AMSTERDAM, I77O. $7
, with a fmall mouth and broad brim, befide it
on a table.
Tea and coffee are the ufual fubftitutes for
beer, which is but litde drank In HoUand. The
coffee is always weak, and roafted but little, and
is coploufly ufed in the morning, fometimes
with and fometimes without milk, and a bit of
fugar-candy Is kept in the mouth to fweeten it.
Tea is drank In the fame manner In the after
noon. On board of fhip we fometimes had
milk and water, with an infufion of tea or fage,
and a little powdered fugar.
Soups arc but litde ufed ; their diet is chiefly
folid, and confifts of vegetables, butcher's meat,
and fifh. This laft is the moft common, and
the cheapeft food. The common people at
every meal eat two forts of bread cut into flices,
with butter, and a piece of cheefe between the
flices. Salt meat is hardly ever ufed. Frefh
water fifh, fuch as pikes and perch, is fcarce
and dear. Potatoes and fea- fifli form the chief
diet of the poor.
The ladies all wear fmall hoop-petticoats,
and have frequently a pouch or bag at their fide,
with a large filver lock.
OSfober tbe 26th I went on board a Dutch
veffel bound for Rouen. In the harbour I ob^
ferved many boats loaded with milk, vegetables, fruit.

28 'HbLLiiND, 1770.
.fruit, and other provifions, for the fiipply of
Arnfterdam. ...
' Npvernber the ift we fet fail, and bn the 5 th.
arrived in the Texel, where I at laft recovered
my trunks by the good offices of Mr. Rose-
BORN, our Commiffary at AufgeU, at Which*
place, all fliips bound to and from Amfterdam,
muft be entered and cleared out. The ifland
is furrounded with dykes, formed of feed-weed
(zoftera).. A road goes round the ifland along
the fea-fhore, which, though elevated, being
compofed of clay, was, at this wet feafon, rather
dirty. The furfaCe of this ifland, like that of a great
part of Holland, is evidently lower than thc
furface of the fea, which is only prevented from
over-flowing the land by the dykes, in the re
pairs of which iraraenfe fums are yearly ex
pended. From the element of water the Dutch derive
all the advantages of their internal and external
commerce. It fertUizes their meadows, which
are the. true fource of their natural riches. At
the fame time, their fecurity from this element
cofts them much expence and labour; but, in
fpite of all their precaution, the ftorms from the
N. W. often caufe irruptions of the fea through''
their dykes and fluices, deluging whole trads
of land, and laying even towns under water, to

HOLLAND, 1770. aj
to the great terror and danger of the inhabi- >
tants. ./
The foU in general is loofe and marlhy. We
may therefore fafely affirm, that fcarcely any
country In the world is naturaUy dirtier ; but by
the ingenuity and indefatigable induftry of ^he
inhabitants. It has been rendered Incomparably
neat and clean.
I lodged that night in a viUage, before which
the veffel lay at anchor, Mufcles {mytilus),
and oyfters (oftrea edulis), are eaten here, both
boiled and raw, with vinegar, oil and pepper. —
When the mufcles are boiled till the fliell opens,
and eaten with fweet and four fauce, they are
both relifliing and, nutridve. While the fhip
lay at anchor, the faUors went on fhore in the
evenings, and brought whole pails full of them
on board. ^They fometimes ufed Spanifli onions,,
inftead of bread, with their peas and other vic
tuals. Notwithftanding that they keep every
thing clean and neat on board, I now difcovered
them to be very uncleanly at their meals, for
they fed themfelves with their fingers, which
feemed very weU fecured againft putrefadion,
by a thick coat of tar.
On the evening oi' November the l^th, which
was perfedJy calm, a murmuring noife was
heard from the fea, and the water fwelled to
wards the fhore, exhibiting a very beautiful phsenO".
I

3© VOYAGE Tb FRANCE, I77O,
phaeiibmenon ; fbr it fparkled like flre, br as if
the light of the moon had been refleded from
hs furface ; biit this was only when' it was agi-
tated, as, for inftance, .when any thing was
thrown into it, or it was ftirred with ari 'oar.
Oft the i^tb, we left the Texel with a fair
wind, but in the hight a ftorm arofe, which con
tinued till the 17/^, when we were in the Englifh
Channel, juft between Dover and Calais, ^d
plainly faw two light houfes on the Engfifli fhore.
At length the gale Increafed fo much as to fplit
feveral of our faUs, and the rain fell ih torrents.
On the I Sth, the wind being fair, we faiw the
French fliore, which appeared very] high.
On the igth, we were within a ftohe's throw
of the fhore, which is Very precipitous, pro
jeding in irregular promontories, and feemed
to cbnfift of chalk, interfperfed with red ftreaks,
TbVyards noon we arrived at Havre de Grace,
where feveral fhips lay in the large harbotir'
formed there by the fhOre. The failors feet,
which had been wet for feveral days, from the
fea-water which had wafhed over the fhip, were
riow fwelled and bliftered, an inconveniehd^
which they remedied merely by rubbing their feet
with brandy^.
On the 20/i» of NfOember, the Captain went
to the town, to get a certificate of health {kttri
At /ante) and a piioc. The

VOYAGE TO FRANCE, I77O. JI
The town is fituated on a declivity, and is
nearly furrounded with hills. Though not very
large, it is neat, weU fituated, and has the ad
vantage of an excellent harbour, which, at thi$
time, contained about 1 50 veffels. — In the road
there were fbme Hamburgh fhips riding quaran
tain. The next day, towards noon, we arrived
at ^illebimf, at the mouth of the river Seine.
Here a cuftom-houfe officer came on board to
feal thc hatches, and a pUot to condud us to
Rouen. The water was quite white from the
chalk which forms the bottom. From the mouth
of the winding Seine to Rouen, the diftance was
faid to be thirty French leagues by fea, and only
ten by land.
On tl>e 23d, I went on fhore. The farm-
houfes are very clofe to each other, and the
lands are feparated merely by quickrfet hedges
or apple and pear trees, hawthorn {cratagas
eiofacanthus, prickwood, (eumymus), and wil
lows (falices;) among which were wild briars
(tofa), and brambles (rubus csefius), interwoven
with ivy (bedera). Here I could not help in
dulging the patriotic wifti, that Sweden might
one day be fo far improved, as to fubftitute
quick hedges for its prefent wooden fences,
which are not only expenfive, but tend to de
ftroy the forefts. If, at the fame time, the plan
tation of trees was encouraged; and the laws for
4 fecuring

^2 FRANCE, 1770.
fecuring them enforced, the country would foon
affume a far more delightful appearance. The
fruit trees here are planted regularly in rows.
Apples were In fuch plenty, that a quart of cyder-
coft only three fois.
The houfes are built with wooden frames wat
tled, and clay. Thc peafants wear wooden fhoes,
with focks or ftraw within them.
The wild plants growing here were {daucus^
car Ota) carrots, (bellis) daifies, {fenecio) ragwort
(mentha) mint, {betonica) botony, and (vifcum f
mifleto. The helix hifpida was. found, here on
the trees.
In the evening, we came to a part of the
river where we were furrounded with high hills,
whieh intercepted the wind, fo that we were
obliged to hire horfes from the peafants to draw
the veffel up the river. When nearer Rouen,
we obferved feveral iflands in the river.
On the 25/A of November, towards noon, we
arrived at Rouenj which is a large fortified .
town. Some of the houfes are of ftone, and
others'of frame-work and piafter. The convent
is very extenfive. The veffels run up to the
bridge, diredly oppofite to the exchange and ;
thc parade. This- exchange, which is opened ;
only in fine weather, is inclofed with iron rails ;
and there is another exchange in the middle of
the town. The whole ftreet along the harbour is

ROUEN, IN FRANCE, I77O. 33
is lined with cuftom-houfe officers ; the entrance
from the harbour to the city is through gates,
which are fliut at nine at night. The houfes in
general are covered with flate. The horfes are
fmall, and flow in motion. Both men and wo
men rode on thera, frequendy two at a time.
Affes are much ufed here, feveral of which
were harneffed one before the other to large carts,
and were ornamented with bells, which produced
a very difcordant kind of mufic. _
Though the weather was not very cold, yet
the inhabitants already wore waiftcoats, lined
with fhag.
A kind of Dutch ftoves were in common ufe
here, which were made either of iron or Delft-
ware, and were heated with brufli-wood ; thefe
warm a room in a quarter of an hour, but their
effed is merely teraporary.
The fliops of the tradefmen and raechanics
are buUt with open fronts. It could not but
appear ftrange to me, to hear the ordinary
burghers and peafants fpeak in common the
language which in other countries is peculiar
to thc gentry, and to fee the fervant-maids
ftalking about in their wooden fhoes, and at the
fame tirae dreft up in their fly caps and negli
gees, like ladies.
In every part of the city the inhabitants en
joy the benefit of fountains conveniendy fituated.
VOL. I, D I vifited

34 FRANCE, 1770, ^
I vifited M. PiNARD, the profeffor of botany
here, and viewed his hortus ficcus.
The botanical garden) which is fituated at
the end of the town is not very large ; It is
divided into two parterresi and has a round
'mount in the middle, and an orangery, which
confifts of three divifions, and is not very ele
gant. An iUicit commerce in tobacco is prohibited,
under no lefs a penalty than that of flavery in
the galleys. All the tobacco on board our fhip
was iraraediately entered and taken into cuf-
tody ; and the crew, who could not exift without
this commodity, received only a weekly allow-.
ance of it, for their immediate ufe.
November the i^th, at four in the morning,
when the city gates were opened, I was told the
poft- coach was juft going to fet out. Thoughl
this vehicle holds ten perfons, there was no paf-*
-fenger in it but myfelf; it was loaded with a
great deal of luggage, and was drawn by four
horfes. The cold was intenfe. A fog enveloped
the country, and there was ice on the water.—-
Trees were planted at the fides of the roads,
which were very broad. On aU the hills there
lay a great number of blue and yeUow flints.—
Tbe houfes on the road were built with lime
ftone and flint. During

FRANCE, 1770. 3^
During this jourftey which lafted three day;;,
I paffed through feveral fortified towns. At
the Inns on the road a traveller may dine either
in company with other people at a fixed price,
or may chufe his oWn diflieS, and dine by him
felf, paying- in proportion. At every inn fome
thing muft be given to the domeftics {quelque
c-hofe pour le garcon), efpecially for being
awaked in the morning, when the diUgence
fets but.
Mile ftofiCs are regularly placed along the
road, and at every quarter of a mile there is a
poft with a copper-plate on it. Near the con
vents it Was not unufual to meet With boys and
Other mendicants, who read the pater^nofter
for the edification of traveUefs;
The hedges were in fome places formed of
brambles {rubus), which, though prickly, were
not thick fet.
On the ift of December, in the rnornifig, I
arrived at Paris. The luggage -v^as aU unloaded
and fearched in the inn yard. I took an apart
ment in the neighbourhood vo hold ttiy baggage,
tiU I could get a lodging nearer to the coUeges
and hofpitals in the" city. And, as I had an ad-
dreft. from afleffor Rise to a M. Berth, his
qOottdam laridlbrd, I went In fearch of this per
fon imtiiediately, took a room at his houfe, and
D 2 ordered

^6 ' PARIS, 1770.
ordered my trunks to be carried thither that
fame afternoon.
I viewed the two hofpitals. La Charite, and
the Hotel Dieu ; the former is neat ; and the
latter, which is very large, I afterwards vifited
daily, and hence had always ari opportunity of
learning fomething, either from the many chi
rurgical ;bperations that are performed here,; or
elfe by attending the fick. ,,,,
I next had the good fortune to become ac
quainted with two of my countrymen, who pur
fued thp fame ftudies with myfelf; this proved
to be of cpnfiderable advantage to me, who bcn
ing a ftranger, could not otherwife fo foon have
been informed of the many opportunities , this,
place affords for the improvement In the medi-.
Cal fcience. In the afternoon, among feveral-
churches we vifited that of Notre Dame,.fron[^
which the model of the Cathedral of Upfal wa^
taken, — Moft of thefe churches are buUt with
crofs ailes, and they are iri general beautifully
decorated. Three young girls ftood before the
altar in the church of the Hotel Dieu, and fang
delightfully : this circumftance I have frequently;
obferved fince at other places,
December the id. The proceffion was per
forraed at the Hotel Dieu, that is ufually mad^j
there on the firft Sunday of every month. The
friars and nuns, who hurfe the fick, were on
tliis.'

PARIS, 1770. 37
this occafion clad in white, with black cloaks",
and carried long candles in their hands.
My landlord reported ray arrival, and gave in
my addrefs to the lieutenant of the police.
December the ^th, I attended divine fervice
at the Swedifli hotel. It was performed in the
German language.
December the it^h, I viewed the convent of
St. Genevieve, its library, cabinet of natural
hiftory, and fine gardens. The library is in the
uppermoft ftory, in the form of a crofs, having
book-cafes all round the fides, and under the
windows : the doors of the book-cafes are of
wire-work, and fecured with locks. The books
are all numbered- Between each book- cafe is
placed the pidure of fome monarch or phUo-?
fopher. The library Is open on Mondays, Wed-
nefdays, and Fridays, from two tiU five in the
afternoon, and books may be borrowed from It.
The cabinet of antiquities, and that of natural
hiftory, are contiguous to the library, and con
tain feveral amphibious animals and fifhes ftuffed,
mummies, minerals, fhells, and corals, but efpe
cially a great number of andquities, all locked
up within wire-work. The garden is neat, and
is prettily ornamented with box cut in different
forms. On December the 2^h, or Chriftmas eve, I faw
the celebration and pompous ceremonies of the
D 3 Catholic

38 FARIS, 1771.
CathbKc fervice in all the churches : this being
performed in the night, the churches were weli
illuminated with a number of chandeliers.
That I might not fuffer any time to paifsaway
unemployed, befides vifiting the hofpital once,
and fometimes twice a day, I engaged myfelf io
anatomical diflcdions with M. Du Mas, fur
geon to the Hotel Dieu. And* while I attended
the public ledures at the chirurgical college'
(St. Come), the medical college, or ecole .4^.me^
dicine ; the botanic garden, ot jar dim royal; ami
the .ledures jn natural philofophy at. the cDllegC'
naval, I did not negled to attend private lec
tures upon anatomy, furgery, and midwifery.
The apparatus and method, of teaching all thefe
feiences, are. as various as excellent : neither are
they taught all, at the hone, tirrie, but fucceffively,
fo that the profeffors, who, give their ledures at
different hours, may have numerous audiences,
and the ftudents. not be perplexed with too many
fubjeds. at a time.
, In the winter, anatomy, is firft read); then the
chirurgical. operations ; afterwards chemiftry and
midwifery; towards fummer, botany, pathology,
and other, branches of the fciences. Theory is
always', accompanied and iliua:Tated( by pradice.
And befides the public ledures, moft ofthe
¦profeffors, and laffiftants deliver private ones; and
that fometimes. even gratlsi. At-

PARIS, I771. 39
At moft of the profeffors public ledures, their
alfiftants, or prevots, are prefent j and when the
jjFofeffor has ledures upon any particular fub
jed, the affiftant immediately demonftrates it
pradically. Though medicine and furgery are fo amply
difcuffed in public ledures, as would feem to
render private inftrudions unneceffary, yet pri
vate ledures are very numerous ; of which the
chief ufe appears to be not fo much the im
provement of the ftudents In theory, as to af
ford an opportunity of affifting with their own
hands in the operations relative to furgery and
midwifery. I therefore immediately engaged
myfelf with Meffrs. Du But and Du Mas, to
go through a courfe of chirurgical operations,
and afterwards to perform them myfelf every
day under their tuition ; and with M. Salay-
REs, to improve myfelf in midwifery, and the
various modes to be purfued in difficult la
bours. "
From the account given above, the reader
may colled, that at Paris there Is the moft con
fiderable medical coUege in Europe ; and that
no other place affords fo many opportunities for
improvement in this fcience. The medical ftu
dents at Paris exceed 3G00, a number unequalled
at any other- univerfity.
D 4 The

40 PARIS, 1771.
The ledure rooms are, for the moft part,
built in a circular form, with benches gradually
rifing one above the other, and in the center
and loweft part a table, at which the profeffor
is feated, much in the fame rnariner as at the
anatomical theatre at Upfal. At the door there
is always a guard to prevent noife and confu
fion, and to give more dignity and ecjat to the
ad. No perfon Is fuffered to go in with a
fword, or couteau de chaffe, which would be in
convenient in fuch numerous audiences, not to
mention more ferious confequences. The gate
of the hall is opened when the clock ftrikes ;
and In order to obtain a feat In fome of the
lower and more convenient forms, the pupils
are frequently obliged to ftand waiting at the
entrance an hour before hand. Both when the
profeffor enters, and when he finifiies his lec
tures, a plaudit is often given by clapping of
hands. At the ecole de medicine, difputations are held
every Tuefday and Thurfday, when thefes of
half a fheet long are argued. The hall Is at
this time parted off. Without, a perfon fits at a
table, dreffed in black, and wearing a band, and
diftributes the thefes. Within, the officiating
profeffors are feated on benches lined with cloth,
and in chairs. The refpondent is feated by the
fide of the prefident, and like him clad in white linen

PARIS, 177^- 41
linen robes. The opponents are dreffed in black
gowns and blue bands.
At Pecole de chirurgie alfo difputations are
held. The chairs are covered with laced velvet.
Benches are placed aU round, and chairs in the
middle. All thefe formalities contribute to give
dignity and folemnity to the ad. A fimllar
end is promoted by the profeffors delivering
their ledures In their official robes, which are
black, and ornamented with a white band. The
French pronounce the latin fo much like their
own language, that at firft it is difficult to un
derftand them.
Incitements to dUigence feem to be unnecef
fary, in a place where there are fo many good
opportunities for iraproveraents in the arts and
fciences ; but yet they have not been forgotten.
For this purpofe, public exarainations are held,
where the ftudents who moft diftlnguifh them
felves receive gold and filver medals, and other
rewatds. Onthe 15th of February, I was pre
fent at a competition of this kind at St. Come,
where the pupils interrogated and refponded to
each other alternately. And in the months of
March I attended an examination at the fame
place, when fix profeffors put the queftions.
Here any Frenchman that pleafed, except Pari-
fians, might ftand as a candidate. Thofe who are
admitted to the ecole praSique, or who obtain thc
prizes

4f PJtRKj 1771,
prizes at thefe examinatlonsy enjoy afterwards;;
the privilege of diffeding, and performing the
dlleisif^cal operations on dead bodies- gratis.
T-he. Hotel Dieu is the largeft hofpital^ in Paris,
and) perhaps in the Whole world. The fund for
its fupport is faid to amount to fix millions bf i
livres, the greater part of which was formerly,
raifed by voluntary contributions. The patierttsv
here are attended gratis, and their number is not
limited. They are commonly earried'hither on
long, litters, and their names entered at the ad-
raiffion-room. The entrance is through the
church itfelf, to which an apartment is coiiti--.
guous, having a row of beds, which, however,
are not always occupiedi At the bottom of this'
there are doors to other larger wards,, which con"-
tain feveral rows of beds. A great number of
the patients, efpecially the chUdren, lie foiJr iri
abed. In rhe upper ftory the chirutgical' pa
tients are lodged; and the higheft' fkxr^ of all' is
occupied by lying-in women, and by thofe whe
are ini the laft ftage of pregnancy. The mak
patients are attfended by friars j. and the^fen^ales,-
by nunsj Their food, is fet on a tabl,e,i and
ferved out to them in bafonsi A clbfe-ftool'^
covered over with cloth ftlarids by each- bed. At
night: the wards? are lighted up with lar^e lamp* .
When a' patient dies, he is carried to the dead*
room {Jaik denmorts). Thofe who die bcfortc
I and

PARIS, 1771. 4^
and after midnight are laid feparately. Between-
ten. and twenty perfons die in general in the
courfe of every twenty-four hours, and are fewed
up in coarfe unbleached linen. The number
of patients generaUy amounts to about 3000, of
whom 2000 are under the care of thc phyficians,
and 1000 under the furgeons. The number of
them on the ift of March, was 3950 ; andthe
week following they amounted to 3978.
The hofpital of la Charite is much fmaller,
but neater and. more elegant than the Hotel
Dieu. It contains about 200 beds, and hasi a
difpenfary of its own. Only a certain numbett
of patients is received here, to whom M. Du
Seu, the diredor, gives tickets of admifiioni
The hofpital of the Invalids.,, for tbe mainte
nance of old and difabled foldiers, has one fpa
cious ward for patients, and is fituated near
town. The chapel belonging to it is large, and;
has an elevated ^choir, which is elegandy Inlaid.
with different forts of marble ; part of its- floor
is-jdepreffed,. and! here no one Is permitted to^eli--
ter but. the Klngj- on which account it is, con*-
ftantly guarded- by ftntinels.j as are alfo the doora
of' the chapel ; many of thefe- fentinels are old
crippled: foldiers. Adjpining, to-this hofpital. is;
the ; ecohj milifaireu .
t The: Bketrc), or- hofpitall for thofe- that are
afflided with ,the-Venffeiai;difeftffe;i isiat a fmaUf
Xj-niru-\-: dift"ance

44 PARIS, 1 77 1.
diftance from town; and thofe who are received
into it, muft prevloufly procure tickets of ad-
miffion. The botanic garden {jardin royal), which is
tinder the able diredion of M. Thouin, is ex
tenfive, and divided into two long partitions, in
clofed within hedges, and the beds or fubdivl-
fions are bordered with box. Towards the ftreet
ftands the cabinet of natural hiftory, which con-,
tains feveral apartments; in the firft of thefe,
different forts of woods, barks, feeds, roots, and
fruits, are kept in bottles, with the names afiixed
to them in French, the botdes being inclofed in
cafes with glafs doors.
In the fecond room is a fine coUedion of/g/"-
Jils in cafes, placed on inclined planes : here are
alfo various petrefadlons, and fpecimens of
polifhed marble. The third chamber contains
birds in glafs-cafes of three different fizes ; their
eggs and nefts are placed on the loweft fhelves :
here likewife occur fome corals and fhells, with
infeds in fquare glafs-cafes. To the cieUng of
the fourth apartraent amphibious animals were
fufpended : here I faw a ftuffed zebra, the fkin
of which had been brought from the Cape by
M. DE la Caille; alfb amphibious animals;
fifhes, infeds, &c. preferved in fpirits of wine.
The room deftined for anatomical preparations,
was not yet quite finifhed. This coUedion Tis;
exhibited

PARIS, 1771. 45
exhibited to the public from two tiU five, on
Tuefdays and Thurfdays. In every room there
is a fentinel, who gives admiffion to people of
a genteel appearance.
The loweft part of the garden forras a kind
of wildernefs, confifting of trees of various forts.
On the left hand are orangeries and hot-houfes.
Before thefe is a terrace on which pots are fet
out in the fumraer, and feveral fraall partitions
for plants, inclofed with yew trees {taxus).
Above thefe, on a rifing ground, are other hot-
houfes, and the gardener's dweUing-houfe, with
a room for drying feeds. Behind the hot-houfes
and the orangery, on the farae elevation, are
walks and a grove, together with a hill, fo high,
that the whole city of Paris may be feen from
it. This garden is open to the public, both for
botanical purpofes and for recreation. The
hedges are formed of yew (taxus baccata), elm
(ulmus campeftris), holly (ilex aquifolium), box
{buxus), lime trees {tiliu Europaa), dogwood
(comus mafcula), honeyfuckles (lonicera capru-
folium, the double bloffomed cherry-tree [pru-
nus cerafus), rhe judas tree {cercis filiquafirum),
lycium barbarum, coronilla fecuridaca, the leffer
maple {acer campeftre), lilac (fyringa vulgaris),
&c. The trees planted in the garden were
chiefly the cut-leaved Montpellier, and common
maple {acer plantanoides, monjpeffulanum, and
(campeftre)

46 pARrs, 1771,
"{carnpefire), the common and kermes oaks
{quercus ilex-, and coccifera), the common cy^
prefs {cupreffus fempervirens), the BermudiaH
cedar (Juniperus Bermudiana) ; yew, elm, lime,
and horfe-chefnut trees, the cir eis, the ph'illyraa,
both latifolia and media; the pyi^us cydonia, or
quince tree; and both forts c^ platanus, or
plane tree.
The water of the Seine, that runs through
the city, is unv/holefome, efpecially to ftrangers
newly arrived. From the chalk it holds In fo
lution, it has a milky colour, and is apt to oc
cafion diarrhoeas.
Large carts go about the fbreets in the morn
ing to take away the foil, which the inhabitant^
have prevloufly fwept up clofe to the walls.
The outfides of the houfes have fbr thc moft
part a gloomy appearance, from the windovii'S
being placed near rhe infide of the waUs. Be
fore the windows of the fecond and fomedmes
the third ftory, there is often a little balcony
with an iron railing, and the window opens In
wards. Many of the floors are laid with bricks
br ftone, and confequently cold — to prevent their
bad effeds, the inhabitants wear at home large
flippers' lined with fur.
The beds, which are weU furnifhed with
clpthes, are very high and large. The bolftcrsf are

PARIS, 1 77 1. 47
are cylindrical, and rather inconvenient to per-
^fons unaccuftomed to them.
No ftreets are better lighted than thofe of
Paris. The large lanterns fufpended on cords
over the middle of the ftreet, projed no fhadow.
Fruits and other neceffaries are cried In the
ftreets, as well as water, which is brought by
men from the river for domeftic uies.
The fhoe-blacks make a tender of their fer
vices to the foot paffengers, in every fquare, and
almoft in every ftreet, which are extremely
dirty all the year round, from the vaft number
of carriages pafling and repaffing, and from the
kennels being in the middle of the ftreets. In
Sweden fuch gentry would have no employment
for three quarters of the year. In rainy wea
ther the ftreets are fcarcely paffable for um
brellas, which are indifpenfibly neceffary in a
city where all the world follows the Japanefe
faflilon of going bare-headed.
Very fmaU muffs were worn here by both
fexes, fo early as in the month of December.
In the middle of January, when the cold is
generally Intenfe, fome people carried pitchers
with charcoal in them, to keep their hands
warm. During a thaw, water rufhes with fuch
impetuofity down the ftreets that go floping to
wards the river, as to render them impaff
able. Audions

48 .PARIS, 1771.
Audions are often held in the open ftreets.
Irhe audioneer did not make ufe of a hammer.;
but after two or three ardcles had been put up,
he faid adieu, and the money was .paid down
diredly. The tables in France are not always laid with
knives and forks, which obliges the guefts gene
rally to carry clafp-knives about them.
The pohce is admirable; patroles are going
both night and day, one clofe upon the heels of
the other, to fecure the peace of this large and
populous city. In almoft every ftreet there is a
commiffary, who has a right to determine trifling
difpytes. It fometiraes happens, that people, either by
accident or otherwife, die in the ftreets. And
as it is irapoffible that all fuch perfons fhould
be known, they are carried to a particular houfe,
and expofed to pubhc view in a room with an
iron grate, before it, in order that the friends of
the perfons miffing may know where to look for
them, before they are buried, which is done within
a certain time after.
The comraerce of good offices Is here carried
to fuch a height, that a perfon who is obliged
to be out in the night, will frequently find men
with lanterns in the ftreet, who for a trifle, will
fight him home. U

pAris, 1771, 45!
J> Palais des Marchands is a large elegant
buUding, wherc all forts of trinkets, &c. are
fold. On new year's eve it is moft fplendidly
iUuminated, and all their fineries are difplayed.
Luxembourg is a fine palace, having a fpacious
court and garden, which, as well as the Thuil-
leries, is open for every perfon to walk in, who
has not a fword on. The gallery of pidures
and drawings is open every Wednefday and
Saturday, from ten till one o'clock. The hif^
tory of Mary of Medicis is placed on one
fide ; and in the apartments on the other fide, a
great variety of other paintings.
Many of the convents are large, having their
cburt-yards, and often beautiful gardens, open
to the public
Vauxhall, fituated beyond the Champs Elizees,
was founded and is kept in elegant order by
fome private gentlemen. On certain days there
is a band of mufic, and every one that chufes
it is at liberty to dance. Towards evening there
is a dilplay of fire-works, Admiffion is obtained
by means of a ticket, which cofts thirty fois,
Irtimediately after Chriftmas, the image of
Chrift, and that of the Virgin Mary with the
holy ihfant, were placed all over the ftireets and
hoiifes, in little niches or cafes, environed with
Crowns and tapers*
VbL. r. E In

^q PARiS> mi-
If| Lent, when meat is prohi|>Ite^r ?U ^he
l^i^ichers-flipps in thp city are fliut up^ Prcwi-
fions are; deyer at this time than alt any othfii;,,
thejre being a great dearth of eggs and m^^,
and butchers' meat being only to be had at ^he
flaugi\ter-ho,\ife b,elongIng to the Hol;el Dieu, tp
the yery greai; ec^ol^umpni; of ^his place.. In. ^hjt
d^ tiipn^, during tljie carnival, the people amufe
thcijifelve.§ in a t^oji^f^.^ dii^i;enl^ ways, A bwlr,
lod^ with gilt horns, a^d otherwife 4j^coi;a|ie4pi is
1^^ roji^d a)^ the, ftijjjqs, of the i;ow;i, w;th, a ^or
o^ his back. Many went roaflced alpng, on
horfeback, in coaches, or in chajfes, in, fjjch
fanf aftic dr,effes, and vaft numbers, that a ftraiiger
i^jigjlf be. eafily In^ijpe^i to. believe, one-half pf^
the inhabitants had loft their fenfes.
Befides, the djyerfions fo much, aboundjngx at
Parisj Wihich entice, fucb. numbers of tra;vqllea»,,
to this fplendidcity, all the Swedes now refidjijg.
here, and myfelf among, the reft, had* thq ho-,
npur , of, bi^ipg- prefented to thethen Priqce RpyaJ,^
the prfif?nt Kijfp of Swedeii, and his... broth©-.
Prince Fredei^ick Adolphus,
But this joy wjis.muqh dapped, by, the n^ws
brought on ^ the ifti of March, of his Swc4'^.
Maj,?fly, ApoL.PHus, Frederick's death, aj^^x^ri
th^.fu^feqqe^lf; illnefs of- hi^ Royal High^^^fcji
Prince Frederick Adolphus,

Qn '

PARIS, i77t* jr
On the 26ih of March, his Swedifli Majefty
departed from Paris for Sweden in good health.
On the 2gfh, I took a walk to the Bois de-
idlogne, a wood confifting chiefly of oaks, wher^
the pebple affemble and dance.
At Cdhaire, a high hill on the banks of the
Seine, oh the afcent of the hill the Paffion of
Chrift is reprefented in feven ads, in feven dif
ferent rooms, difpofed two by two, in regular
order. On the fummlt of the hill are placed
three croffes and the holy fepiilchre, with a
church* It now being Eafier, the crofs was
prefented to the populace to be kiffed, who
prdfed forwards in ctotids to'the altar, artd to
the jiriefts; who prefented It to thefm. In the
iheah time, two friars receive li^on plates their
ofitlrings on the occafion.
Ort the 30th^, I was invitc^d by two of my'
friends, Meffrs. Veber and VoLsteino, tb ac
company theni to the Ecole Royale Veterinaire,
near CharaHton, The nunrib^r of pupUs here
amounted to near lOo, who lived fornetimes two
or three together. In chattibers on the upper
ftory. On the lower ftory is, -ori one fide',' the
anatbiirtical theatre, which is very lafge ; and on
the dthel-' fide a tong room, with three rows'- of
feats ih it, ;fot- the 'public examinations. On
this day was held one of thefe exartiinatiohs (cW-
cours), "of which there are four or five in a year.
E a The

52 PARIS, 1771.
The prefident and feveral of the deputies were
feated at a long table, and on another fmaller
One were placed the anatomical preparations.— >•
The prefident and affeffors had paper before
them to write their notes upon. The prefent
fubjed was the mythctogy of a horfe, which thc
ftudents demonftrated two at a time, one put
ting queftions and the other refolving them.—
The two ableft competitors drew lots for the
prize on this occafion.
During the examination their names were al
ways mentioned. In the upper ftory was the
mufeum, where excellent preparations of vari
ous animals were preferved within glafs-cafes.
The diredor of this fine fchool lived in a large
houfe adjacent to It. On one fide of thc yard
was a fmithy for the inftrudion of the ftudents,
which had two fire-places or chimnies, and- two
forges In each fire-place.
The Infirmary for difeafed animals was divided
into feveral apartments, which were placed ia
two long rows.
Here was alfo a fmall botanical garden,, laid
out for the cultivation of medicinal plants for
the cattle, and furnifhed with a litde hot-houfe.
The apothecary's fhop too was very hand-
forae. Thofe who boarded, here pwd twenty
Uvres per month. Among

PARIS, 1771; 53
Among the various forts of fheep that I faw
here, was a Turkifti one, which having had
its left thigh amputated, walked with a wooden
leg. April tbe xft. Stained eggs ornamented with
figures fcratched on them, were fold in the
ftreets during the Eafter holidays; and Lent
being at an end, pigeons were brought in to the
town, and butchers' meat was hung up for fale
in the fhambles.
On the 2^th of April, M. La Faye pre
fented to the academy of furgery a woman thirty-
fix years old, who, in the feventh year of her
age, had the fmall pox, in confequence of which,
by means of abfceffes or gangrene, fhe had loft
her tongue piece-meal. For two years after
this fhe could not fpeak ; but had fince accuf
tomed herfelf to it by degrees. There were now
no traces of the tongue remaining, but only
the glands or almonds of the throat projeded a
little : yet fhe fpoke very plainly, and in finging
hkewife articulated her words diftindly. This
fhe performed by fhutting her teeth clofe toge
ther, and by applying the under lip againft the
upper. May the id. To-day the French guards,
who wear a blue uniform with white lace, and
the Swifs guards, ¦whofe uniform Is red, after
having marched with a large band of mufic to
E 3 the

54 ' PARIS, 177 !•
t^e church of Ifotre Dame, received their be-
nedidion for this year. On this occafipii I
went up into the fteeple, which affords a npoft
delightful profped.
On the 14/-& of May, were celebrated the
nuptials of the Compte de Provence with the
Princefs of Sardinia. AU Paris \yas illumi^
nated with candles and lamps, which :\\ere placed
on the outfide before the windows ; and vldvals
and wine were diftributed In the fquares.
On the 25/^, I vifited the apothecary's garden,
which, though fmall, contains feyer.^1 euripus
plants, and has at the bottom a grove for wallf r
ing In. Free admijttance to this garden may be
obtained fpr twelve fivres, and about fix mpr?
in gratgities to the attendants, vi^hen the gar
dener prefents the fubfcriber with a cat.alogHej by
which the, plants may be found that are npt yet
numbered. On the 30//&, the feaft of the Sacrament, or
Eite Dieu, was celebrated. The friars of all
the churches paraded about their refpedive pa-
riflies, with le bon 7)ii?a inclofed in a glafs-bgi?
with a fun round it, and placed under a c^nppjj,
with mufic, drurps, cenfers, and bafkets., of
flowers. AU the houfes, as high as to the top
of the firft floors, were hung with tapeftry of,
all forts, wh^ch gave the ftreet? fo different an
appearance, that a ftranger could not withoK^^
difficulty

PARts, 17/1. 55
difficulty find his way home again. In the ftreets
flbwers were fcattered, and iri different parts of
riicm altars ereded, upon which the priefts
mounted, in order to give their benedfdiori' to
the ftreet and to the houfes. During the prb-
ccffion, money was colleded for the purpofe bf
releafing prifoners from the petit chatelet. On
this occafion a great ma'fly ridiculous fituations
and abfordities are exhibited. Parents were feen
to throw their children on the ground, that the
pi*oceffion might pafs over them, yet Without
hurting them.
In the afternoon I faw xkit gifbe}ms,ox the mag
nificent tapeftry which is manufadured here,
and is always publicly exhibited on thit dHj.- —
AU the walls of the court yard' were hurig with
them on the infides, as well as thc apartrrlehts.
They pepreferited feveral hiftories frotn the Bibfe,
as alfb frbm OviD artd other poets. The figures
were full of anlmatibn.
On the I %tb of furte, I paid a' vifit" to thd
femous enameller, M.Roux, who rhalces eyes
in enamel, reprefenting aU the dlfordc'rs' of that '
organ, as likewife artificial eyes;- to futh ¦ per
fedion, that they cannot be diftiflgiuirfh'M frbm
tbe natural. The different coloiiirs of the eyes
he imitates with pieces of enamel brvarloils co
lours, which he procures from Vcnide, and afiet-
iS'afds mixes them up- with different metals,
E 4 His

56 PARXS, 177 1.
His apparatus, which, however, [he does not
Ihow to every body, is as follows : On the table
is fixed a brafs plate, on which ftands a lamp
with a large wick. Under the table is a pair of
bellows which he works himfelf with his foot,
and the mouth of which paffes upwards through
the table : here a glafs-tube is fixed to it, which
is bent towards the fiame of the lamp, and by
means of which he brings the enamel into fu-
fion. Having fixed his materials to the end of
a tobacco-pipe, he firft begins the globabf the
eye, which is made wider and wider in circles,
and then brought into a fmaller compafs, tiU
only an aperture is left for thc cornea, which is
formed in that place by the addition of blue
enamel. The end of the pipe is then heated,
and the cornea is firft of all blown, and after
wards the reft of the eye-bail. With a ftick
pf blue and white twlfted enamel, feveral dots
are then made within the outward rim of thie
cornea j within this row is made a row of white
dots, and within thefe another row of blue and
white dots, all of which are melted together,
and diffufed oyer It by means of heat. After
this fome black enamel Is laid on, to form the
pupil, and on the outfide of aU a larger knob of
fine and clear cryftal glafs, for the, purpofe of
piaking the cornea tranfparent. AU this is then
wrought up by the flame into the natural form of

PARIS, I771. ' 5f
ofthe eye, by blowing It outwards from within,
Laftly, in order to get the pipe loofe, the ftick
of cryftal is very flightly faftened to one fide of
the cornea, and the pipe is taken away, and at
the fame time the globe of thc eye has its pro
per fhape given to it behind.
The proper fize and the circular form is
given to the cornea and to the globe of the eye
itfelf, during the blowing, by raeans of a pair
of compaffes. From the bulb fo much is taken
off behind, that the whole fits exadly, and the
edges are made fmooth and even in the flame.
Previous to the pipe's being taken away, the
globe is blown out at the two fides, in order to
form the two angles of the eye. AU this being
done, a cryftal-glafs is fixed very flightly to the
edge of the eye, and the ftick that was before
fixed to the cornea, is taken off; the mark made
by It Is clofed up by blowing on the part, and
the eye put into a box filled with live coals and
embers, in order to cool by degrees. This artift
works with fpedacles In a darkened room. Be
fore the flame of the lamp he has a plate, the
convex fide of which is turned towards the flame,
the plate itfelf being fixed on a ftand.
' Every month he diftributes eyes gratis to fuch
poor people as ftand In need of them. People
in lefs aifiuent circuraftances are fupphed with
them at a cheaper rate than the rich, by whom he

58 PARI*, 177 I.
he is well paid, the price differing from ond to
twenty-five Louis d'ors. The furgeons may
have them of him for fix livres a piece. Afty
perfon who has had the misfartttne te lofe orie
of his eyes, and wifhes to repair his lofe witfe
one of enamel, may gp to the artift, who" wiU
take a pattern for it from hi& rem«ning. eye. A
draught of the eye is requIred,^ or elfe a very
accurate defcription may be fent him by the
poft, and he will make an eye according to the
orders. In all fuch cafes he takes the precaution
of putting by in a paper, fampks of thofe forts
of enamel which he has ufed, to make ufe- ©^
if neceffary, another time. According, to thq
different colour of the iris, the colours of the
enamel muft be chofen ; in like manner with re,-
fy.e&, to radii, points, fhadesj and veffels. The
eyes vary in fize, according to the djfliercnee of
age; and fometimes he makes them with angles
or Uttle hooks. One of thefe eyes may be worn
three months, and even half a year, when> on
account of Its being injured by the frldlon^ it
muft bc changed. For an eye that reprefeot^
fume diforder, h« charges- a Louis d'or, or a|
leaft twelve livres. The number of eyes of this
kind amount to fifty and odd.
On the %d offuly, towards evening theeffigjs
of a. man was carried about fome of thc ftreets
iathe city, and afterwards beheaded and burnt^ This

fARlS, 1771. 19
f'his was faid to be done in remembrance of a
rpan, who, many y^ars ago, when in a ftate of
intoxication, had affaultfd> and run his fword
thro\jgh an image of the Virgin Mary, that lie
niet with In his way juft before a convent ; fpr
which he fuffered the punifhment which is ftill
repeated In effigy, in cooamemoration pf fvch
a deteftable adion.
M» Qeojsfroy, whom among others I vifited,
received me with the greateft poHtenefs, and
fhowed me his coUedion of infers. He had
fet them up all along the walls of a room in
flliaU glafs-cafes.
Ir> one of the boats that run down the Seine,
I took a paffage to Verfailles, and from thence
to Trianon, for the pujpofe of feeing the royal.
botanic garden in this place, which is the moft
elegant of ajiy that I have feen ; and. of exa
mining at th(i f^nae time the coUedion of plants
pf Meffrs. Richards, rnade by. the younger of
tjjpfe gentlpnjen. In bis voyage to Majorca a.nd.
Minorca. '
On the i,8//& of July, I went fiom Paris to
Rouen, iii,ord?,r to take my paffage in fome vefr
fel from thence to yf«j/?i?ritf%, apd from thence
to the Eaft-Indies, in confequence. of an offer
made me during my ftay at Paris, by Profeffor
Burmann., which I accepted with the greateft
pleafure. In

€o ROUEN, 1 77 1.
In my paffage to Rouen, which I- made partly
ill boats down the Seine, and partly by land, I
went to fee the vaft and remarkable engine at
Marly, which carries water up to Verfailles for
the fpace of feveral leagues, and over confider
able eminences.
Having traveUed by day and night, I arrived
at Rouen on the 1 9th.
The large bridge conftruded here on the
Seine, which is of a confiderable breadth, is
formed of boats, and may be taken to pieces.
The mountain near Rouen appeared to have
regular beds or ftrata of chalk and flint, each
bed being of the breadth of about a hand, or
fomewhat more. Thefe ftrata reached only as
far as to the middle of the mountain where they
were fucceeded by chalk. The flint is for the
moft part black, fometimes white, grey, yellow,
or bluifh, and at the fame time exhibited many
cavities and elevations. Though the chalk is
thus interfperfed with flints, yet flones are cut
out ofit for building, Near Paris. 'the chalk
appeared to be morc mixed with petrefadlons,.
The mountains near Bouille contained alfo flints,
and near ^illebceufxt confifted of chalk rubble,
with fmall pieces of flints.
On the <^th of Auguft, I embarked in a Dutch
veffel. We fell gently down the river, fre
quently cafting anchor, and fometimes fbllowirig^
4 thc

FRANCE, 1771. 6r
the tide at ebb. The ebb, the nearer one ap
proaches to the fea, becomes longer and longer,
infomuch, that a great part of the land was left
dry, and the fhips lay aground, and ftuck in the
foft clay.
On aU holidays the inhabitants of the viUages
were feen dancing and amufing themfelves out
in the fields. The girls had a particular kind
of drefs, confifting of bare ftays with bows of
ribbands behind, and on the fides of the petti
coats ; gold and filver lace about the head, with
a piece of linen hanging down on each fide
ofit. The mountains, befides chalk and flint, feem
ed to confift more or lefs of light or dark
layers of chalk, of the thlcknefs of an inch,
formed by the tide. This is very confpicuous
in the elevations which are yet under water,
.and become vifible oi*ly at the ebbj the colour
of thefe ftrata is owing to the clay being dark
beneath them ; but the fediment, which the
water depofits on its furface, is lighter, or of a
yeUowifh grey. This affords an evident example
ofthe manner in which the beds of mountains
are formed, viz. during the ebb, which comes
on flowly, the water depofits a fediment, by
which means fmall elevations are formed like
promontories, refembling fteps placed one above
another; before the time of flood, which comes on

gi fraSCe, i^7ii
cil rapidly, the fediment bf each tide Is b^cbffi^
iff fe#ie' nfie'ifufe hard, 'i'he" hUls from P'arii
fsw^ds the fea, were for the moft part of the
fertie height as the eaftk-hiil near Upfal : and
bays were feen running into them, which fome
times ftielvfed off gradtolly, and at bthefr fi'nftes
were quite fteep. Their fteepiiefs' freiqueritly'
Jft-bceeds from pietes faUing dowri-; this' waS
clfearly eVidlent at low water from the' fAiall bank^
diat are noW forming for future generatibrts.— «
Below the mountains, ift fbrne' places, Iky ploti
•bf level ^ound'of difKrent fizesT, WhidH the wa
ter had formerly accumulated by degrees,- biiiJ
had noW' left entirely ; fbriie of thefe were ftiU
bare; Whife btherS', though ih' a foft ft&ftfe, WeH?
alrtfady ovei--grbwri' with g^afs-and trees, arid
rii'us alteady forinCd into iflarids. Nearer to-
vtards Havre' dt Grate, the t!de has formed neai*
thefe' iflatlds; bays' which reftnfble' fnriall' har-
bjjai*,: and are In every refped finhilar to tHofe*
that are feen on a larger fcale near the'hi^hd*
jTibtintliins] All this clearly fhows thcfbrmatioH
of the mootitains, as > WeU 'as the decreafe of thef
watfer. Moj'C towards tbe fea the flintS'appe'ai''i'
ed to be both ift fmaUer' qutotityj and' left nfaii'
tWe,.- than higher up' in the country ; in'the vl*
cini'ty> of the fea they were pale, weffe covered'
with a thicker" grey coat, and feemed to'bdf^lefs'
bard.- The'^ flints are, no- doubt,- coagutaefe^-inf and

FRANCE, 1771, 6 J
and by the chalk, however dUrmnilar thefe two
fubftances are feparately confidered. In breads
whichj from impeded fermentation and cold,
turns ftony, one would fcarcely fuppofe thc hard
part to be of the ferae materials with the reft,
although it has, only undergone the procefs of
baking. In going down the river a pilot conftantly at
tended on- board the veffel,, to take care of tbe
anchorage while in low waoer.- On this occafioai
the veffel is frequently laid clofe to the fliore,
apd ill. a. fixiall crce.k» where it lies on one fide,
ill, the foft mud. Our pilot was imprudent;
enough on fuch an occafion to. lay. our veffel*
dir^sdjy, aprofs one of thefe creeksj, fo that at-
low watAr It refted on* 1(5; fone audi afo ends; and
as>It,hadino fqpport in the middle, it brol^ in^
twp], and wa?; aftgr«v^d%> obliged' to be taken to.
Hgvre dp Gracertobe r^aifcd, . This ifhipwreck ;
OH dry landjjjut} me,- under the neceffity of fend^
ing my baggage on board another veffel,. in
which Loontiriuedj my journey, to, Amfterdam.
fle»^W- is., a- fittlfe town at the mouth ofthe^
riyefj^ that, has a fine harbour, at which we ar^-
rivfdon the aad.of. Avi^uft. The tide left a.
g!re;a,txdcalrQf: the bottom dry. Here fhrimps-
(cancerfq^ll^, ^vicrcaag^t in a. net fixed bCr
twgen two fliicks, which the fifiierman puflied-.
before hiin, , From

64 AMSTERDAM, 1771,
From the wind the failors get weak arid red
eyes ; from the rolling of the fhip, bandy-legs,'
and prominent pofteriors ; and from laboiir arid
handlhig ofthe rigging, hard and callous hands.
On the 2)°th of Auguft, I arrived at Amftef-
dam, and was received with a hearty welcome
by my patrons, the Profeffors Burmanns.
In September the ufual annual fair was held,
which lafts three weeks, when booths are fixed
in all the fquares, and in many other places.
WhUft I was preparing for rriy long-intended
voyage, I vifited almoft daily the phyfic-garden
in the morning, and fpent the evenings at Pro
feffor Burmann's houfe, among his coUedions
and In his library. In the phyfic-garden I ex
amined, at his requeft, aU the plants in the par
terres, to fee whether the names affixed to them
were proper. The plants were arranged accord
ing to the fyftem of Van Royen, and clofe by
each plant was placed a painted ftick, with a
number on it.
I alfo went to fee the academy [of painring,
the anatomical theatre and its preparatlbns, the
exotic animals at Blue-John's, and other curio-
fities ; and early every morning I took care to
vifit the hofpitals. Blue- John's {Blaauve Jean)'
is a private hoijfe, where wine is retailed, and
where various forts of curious animals, birds, as
weU as beafts, fometimes very rare ones, from" both

AMSTERDAM, 177I. 65
Ijoth the Indies and Africa, are kept in cages
knd exhibited. Thefe beafts attrad a great
number of people to the houfe, and thus pro
mote the fale of the landlord's wine; for the
Ipedators are always obliged to buy one or more
bottles of wine at a dear rate, though they are
allowed to fee the beafts graus.
I had an opportunity of making acquaintance
with a M, Kleinhoff, who had been three
years in the Weft Indies, and one and twenty
at Batavia. At this time he lived at the dif
tance of two day's journey from Amfterdam,
upon his revenues ; and gave me information iii
feveral particulars relative to the Indies.
I alfo became acquainted with a M. Schei,-
tiNO, who had been a long time in America,
and was fhortly to return thither in the qua
lity of fupervifor of the hofpitals. Among
other things he told me that the difeafe called
jaffi, or the/aiyj, to which the Americans were
'fubjed, was unknown in Europe, and was pain
ful, chronic, and eruptive, caufing a fenfation
in the Ikin like that which arifes from the
pricking of needles ; it is cured by means pf
mercuryw The leprofy he afferted to be very
common in America : it makes its firft appear
ance in the form of a fmall fpot, which after
wards, by degrees, fpreads all over the fkin,— -
This fpot is devoid of aU feeling, even if burnt
vqL. r. F ' with

66 AlWSTERiJAM, 1771.
with a red hot needle ; and in procefs of tifne,
the fingers and limbs fall off while the patieflt
is at work, without his perceiving it. With
good diet the difeafe may be concealed for a
iohg time, and when the eruption becomes uni-
verfal, it generally goes away. Sudorifics arc
of fervice, but mercury hurtful.
On the 4th of November, a profeflfor of laws
was introduced Into the Athenaum, or academy,
here ; who made an oration de jurij^udentia
tivili circa promovendam mercaturam. All the
profeffors were drefl[fed in black, and wore cloaks,
bands, and large wigs with fiowing curb, of
which two hung in front, and one on eaeh
flioulder. Since the preceding yeatrj when I ftayeet a
few weeks at Amfterdam, and paffed maity
agreeable hours in Profeffor Burma n»'s librwy
and Cabinet of natural hiflrory, that gendCflB^,
had, during my ftay at Paris, paffed a great
many encomiums on my knowledge in natural
hiftory, in the prefence of fome gentlertren at
Amfterdam ; and at the farae tirae reprefented
to thenri, how ferviceable I flhould be to them,
as lovers of curious exotic plants, if I COuM
but have the opportunity of going, at thCiJ
expence, tb fome of the northern parts of Afia,
Specially 7t^^,' from whence we had no^ants
iri. Europe, althotigh it was probabte, that they
would

AMSTERDAM, I77I. $7
would bear the climate is- weU as others lately
brought hither in great numbers from North
America, Thefe gentlemen, who fpared no expencd
for t;helr fruit and pleafure-gardens, liftehed
^kh pleaftft-e tb this propofal, and refolved to»
fomilh me with the fnians and recommenda
tions neceffary for a voyage to Japan. Arid
as nb natfon except the Dutch,- is fuffered to
come into Japan, it was neceffary for me both
te UHderftand Dcrtch and tb fpeak it ; tb obtain
this, I re<Juefted to be permitted prevjonfly to
pafs a couple of years at the Cape of Good
Hope, and to be taken in' the fcrViceJ of tlie
Eaft India Company,
The Dut(5h Eaft Irtdia Company fit out thelf
mrniefous ftiips' at three different feafons. The
largfeff ffeet is ready In Septeitabtery and is called
the Kermes fleet ; the fecond, which is lefs nu-
inerous, -is ready before Chriftmas, and is called
the Chrijtmm fle& r the third, called th& Eafter
flegPi fail* abouti the time of tfbat feftivaly and is
the Icaftk
As- the firft fleet lay ready in the Text!, only
waiting for a fair wirid, and the fecond fleet
aHb was provided v(ith all its officers, it Was
r^felv^dr, that I fiiduld be "engaged in the c*^
paeity; of furgeon-extraordinary in bhe of the
fhips then* l^ound fo^ i»he Cape of Good Hope, by
F 3 which

68 AMSTERDAM, I77I.
which means I fliould be more at my lelfure on
the voyage, without being under an obligatioii
to do duty any farther than I myfelf fliould pleafe,
By this I aftetTwards gained the gi-eat and ineftl-
mable advantage, that upon my arrival at che
Cape I could ftay three whole years, without
being obliged to attend the fhip to the different
places whither it was fent.
I was confequently received on board the
Schoonzigt, and had the pleafure to fee it com
manded by a Swedifli captain, M. Ronde-
crantZj^ from Smaland, who was born near
Calmar. The little time I ftill had to remain, I fpeftt
in informing myfelf, as much as poffible, ofthe
ftate of this powerful Eaft India Company, as
well as of the oeconomy obferved on board their
fhips, and alfo of the regulations of their fado-
ries in the Eaft Indies,
On the Sth of December, the crew that was
to go on board the fleet, paffed mufter, and
took the ufual oaths in the Eaft-India- Houfe.
After this their baggage was brought on board.
All their chefts, which they buy new, have the
mark of the Company burnt on them in the
India-Houfe, and are then brought on board ^in
the Company's own craft. A foldier is allowed
to have a Uttle box about two feet fquare, to
contain his fcanty ftore. A failor, who wants a

greater

AMSTERDAM,^ 1/7 !• 6g
greater change of clothes, is aUowed one as
large again ; but the officers may bring one or
more large chefts (befides bafkets, bottle-cafes,
and caflcs of beer) as well for ftowing merchan
dize in, as for provifions ; though for the moft
part, befides thefe, they find means of convey
ing feparate chefts of clothes and provifions on
board. In each fhip there are above a hundred
faUors, and from two to three hundred foldiers,
A day or two previous to the crew's going on
board, a drum is beat throughout all the ftreets,
for the purpofe of Informing them of the time
when they are to join the boats, in order to be
tranfported on board the fhips. On thefe oc
cafions. If an officer lives in that ftreet, they do
him the honour of drumming violently, and for
a long time before his door — an honour that al
ways ftands him In a few fhillings, and draws
a great concourfe of people of all denominations
about his houfe.
On -the IOth of December, I had the honour
of going with M. Beaumont, the diredor, in
the Company's yacht to the Texel, where the
fhips, bound to different places in the Eaft-In
dies, lay ready, wairing only for the mufter and
a fair wind, I was amply provided with letters
of recommendation to the Governor at the
Cape, M. Ryk Tulba<jh, from M. Rheede
Van Oudshorn, who, about Eafter, was to go
F 3 tb

7© TPE TEXEL, t77iv
to. the Cape in quality of Vice- Governor 5 aul
from the burgomafter Temmink, as alfo from
Profeffor Burmann and his motherrin^law,: to
M. Berg, counfelbr of police j and to M.
Nethling, fecfetary pfthe court of jufticc.
We did not reach the Tex^l before the nexf
day. On the i^-th, I had the pleafure ©f being pre,
fent at the mufter in the Nieues Roon. Indiaman,
As foon as the officers had been calkd over;
they received their inftrudions, their cabin? were
given them, and the fhip's council was appointed.
^he failors and foldiers were then mufteredj
and their abilities enquired into afrdh, althpu^
they had been escamined previous to thei^ beii^
tecelved at Amf^rdam. If they now wieni
found to he not fo weU qualified as ihejj ought
to be, a circumftance which was, frequently: de*
cided by their looks alone, aad «be t«fViinefij(
of a furly fkipper, their monthly pay, cooiErarx
to prior agreement;, and to aU juftioe* and
equity, was dimlnifhed to the value of a gildtsF
or more. As foon as the diredor h^d taken
his leave, the whole crew went aloffc into tlw-
rigging, and waving their hats and cags, gave
three cheers. This was acknowledged by the
fame number of cheers from the yacht-; the
fliip then fired her guns, and was anfWered by
^h.e yacht. In

THiE Tixtl, 1 77*1. fl
In the €vemng of this day, an tinlucky ae-
cident happened on board the fliip in which I
was to fail. A foldfer had his left foot torn off
by the bite of a rope, near the cSpftan, in fuch
a manner^ that the tibia was feparated' at the
jointi the fibula obliquely fradured, and the
whole held together by the tendo achillis only.
This difagreeable occurrericfc deprived me of
the pkafure of fpending my time on board the
yacht, tUl all the fhips had paffed mufter, with
the Diredor Beaumont; who was a very amr-
aUe as well as fenfibfe man, and was the 6c-
cafion that I was obliged to go pn board the
JScaonzigt the next morning. The patient was
$hen drefied, without ooF beirig able to find and
tie up the artery, for which reafon it was ne-
eeiBury to keep on the tourniquet ; and, whilft
preparatioHS were making for thc amputation of
the feg, orders cawie for the patient to be car
ried to the hofpital at Amfterdam.
We ftaid a fortnight longer for a fair wind,
during which time I had aa opportunity of
making myfelf acquainted with the Gettonomi-
cal regulations bbferved on board, both with re
aped' to the healthy and fick part bf the crew.
Each man fingfes-out for himfelf a Cbmpanion;
in- whom, during the voyage, he can phde
moft .cbBfidence. The nrtcffes are fo regulated',
that- feven men dine at a «abley» which has a
F 4 caterer

>J2 THE 'i'EXEL, 177J:.
caterer to keep order at it. To the failors as
weU as foldiers are diftributed wooden-bowls, as
being lefs fubjed to accidents on board of fhip,
than earthen veffels, ;
As the crew had been but a week on board,
I expeded, on my arrival, to find no patientjs^
but found, to my great furprize, that feveral men
were already IU; I heard alfo, that the nunnber
of fick and dead on board the fhips which had
been lying in the Texel fince September laft,
was fo confiderable, that when we faUed, jfevc^
ral fhips, fuch as the Groendal, the Huyfter. Mey,
the -KrcenboMrg, and the Hoenkoop, were obliged;
for want of hands, to wait for a frefli fupply,
notwithftanding they had been fent out at firft
with more than three hundred men.
The caufes of this epidemical difeafe, which
I minutely inveftlgated, I found to be multi
farious. The air was at this -time very heavy
and moiftj and the fog In general fo thick, that
nobody ventured to pafs from one fhip to ano
ther without taking a compafs with him, in or
der to fin^ his way back, as no light from any
lamps or lanterns that were hung out could
pierce through the fog. Till the ftiips get un--
der fail, little or no order is obferved, either in
the oeconomy of the fhip, or among the crew
itfelf. But what very much, if not folely, con
duces to the ipcreafe of maladies, is undoubtedly the

THE TEXEL, 1771. 73
the great number of difeafed foldiers fent on
board by the kidnappers (zeeherkoopers) with
bodies pardy emaciated, and pardy replete with
fcurvy and corrupted fluids. Thefe men, unac
cuftomed to the manner of living on board of
fhip, and to the damp cold fea-air, foon con-
trad putrid fevers, and infed the reft of the
crew. This happens the fooner. If they are
alfo iU provided with clothes or dejeded in
mind. And as thefe kidnappers, the moft deteftable
members of fociety, frequendy effed the ruin
of unwary ftrangers, by decoying them into
their houfes, and then feUing them to be tranf^
ported to the Eaft-Indies, I have thought it
my duty to make fome m.ention of them in
this place, as a caution to all fuch as may have
occafion to go to Holland. Thefe man-ftealers
are citizens, who under the denoraination of vlc-
tuaUers, have the privilege to board and lodge
&'angers for money, and under this cloke per
petrate the moft inhuman criraes, that do not
always come to the knowledge of their fupc-
riors, nor can be punifhed by the hands of
juftice. They not only keep fervants to pick up
ftrangers in the ftreets, but alfo bribe the carriers
(kruyers) who carry the baggage of traveUers
from the fhips to the inns, to bring ftrangers to
lodge with them ; who, as foon as they arrive, are

74 the texel, 1771'.
are generaUy fliuf up in a room, together with a
number bf others, to the amount of a hundred
and more, where they are kept upon fcanty
and wretched food, entered as foldiers on tbe
Company's books, and at length, when the fhips
are ready to fail, carried on board. The haaeA,
dealer, on the other hand, receives two motttlis
of their pay, and what is called a biU[of tr/af-
piirt, for loo, 150, or aoo gilders. In tbe
two, three, or four months, during whicb they
are fhut up at the kidnapper's, they contrad
the fcurvy, a putrid diathefis, and melanehiaily,
(which break out foon after they come on
board); and by their pale countenances, livid
lips, and fwelled and ulcerated legs, are eafily
diftinguilhed from the others who are hcakfey
and fbtind. A transferable bill for a certain furti
of money is fometimes given by the Eaft India
Company to perfons enlifted in their fetvictf as
an advance of their pay, to enable them t© Qt
themfelves out; but this biU is not difeowfiised
by the Company, unlefs the perfoR to whorti
it was given, ferves to the full amount of the
fum thus advanced. Thus if the perfowenUftiefl
dies before he has ferved to the fall amou«t
of the bill, the deficiency is not paid. For this
reafbn fuch a bill is always negociated at a gpeffl
lofs, proportionate to the ftrength ©f conftfeui-
tion or health of the affignee, and t© the time that

the Tixit, 1771. 75[
that he appears likely to live. In fad, it is
feldom negotiated at more than half its nominal
oalu^. Many innocent people, often of decent
femily and in eafy circumftanees, are trepanned
by thefe man-fteakrs, and muft go as foldiers
to the Eaft or Weft Indies, where they are ob
liged by tbe articles of their agreement to ferve
at leaft five years. Yet all do not fall into their
hands in this unfortunate manner, but many
having no other means of fubfiftence, go of
their own accord to one of thpfc traders in hu
man flefh, who provides them with board and
lodging QQ credit, and for his own fecurity fhuts
ihem up, till they can be fent cm board. It is
unfortunately too tpue, that many perfons are fo
ijnhappy as to faU in the manner above- men-
^ned into timv fnares ; yet neither are thefe
things done under the fandion of government,
i»or do they go uppunlfhed when they are dif
covered. Neverthelefs, the diredors of the Eaft India
€iQmpai|y can neither be defendied, as not know
ing of fuch fcaiadahDUS- pradices. that difgrace
humanity, nor, indeed, be acquitted, of &¥Oufv
ing them at times.. For as the company is
often in want of men^ and does, not care to
give better pay, they, are obliged to overkwjfc
the methods uf^d by tibcfe' infamous traders in,
human fleOi to peocure handsij and if at che
muftec

y6 the texel, 1771.
mwfter any one fhould think proper to lay open
bis cafe and misfortune, the diredor, not over*
fcrupulous, never thinks fuch a one too. good
for the Company's fervice- So that the direc
tors would be able to prevent all fuch illegal
violence, if at the reception of their men, and
efpeciaUy at the mufter of them on board of
Ihip, they made a ftrid enquiry into particu
lars, or wiflied in the leaft to vindicate the
rights of mankind. It is comraon to hear that
thefe unfortunate perfons have been deprived of
their clothes and other property by the kidnap^
pers, who in their ftead have fent them out with
two or three pair of worfted ftockings, trowfers
made of fail-cloth, i61b. of tobacco, and a keg
of brandy : of this fcanty and certainly not very
enviable property, the greateft part is frcquentljl
ftolen from them on their arrival on board, (0
that they are afterwards obliged to run bare«
footed and bare-headed in the cold, having
fcarcely fufficient to cover their nakednefs.
The crew being thus badly clothed, dejeded In
mind, and forced by rough means to hard and fe»»
vere labour, it Is not furprifing that difeafes fiiould
fuddenly fupervene, and be rapidly propagated*
Out of twenty patients, at the beginning of the
voyage, fcarcely one is a failor, but all of them
foldiers from the kldnappe.s. Thus thefe deal
ers ill human flefh undoubte41y occafion great lofs

THE TEXEL, 177 1. 77
lofs and injury to the Company with their
wretched fupplies. This the Company might
prevent, if they eftablifhed a houfe on their
wharf, in which poor people, who were defirous
of being engaged in their fervice, might be de
cently fitted out, and maintained till fuch time
as the fhips were ready to fail, and afterwards
ferve to the amount of what had been advanced
to them, without, at the fam^e time, enriching
an infamous ruffian.
Theft can hardly be carried to a greater
height, than it is on board an Eaft Indiaman
during the time it lies in the Texel. Chefts
are broke open in the night, and emptied of
their contents, fo that the owner has not a
fingle rag left for fhifting himfelf: hammocks
and bed-clothes are ftolen, infomuch that the
owners are obliged to fleep on the bare boards
of the deck : fhoes and night-caps are purloined
from the feet and heads of thofe that are afleep ;
and the fick have frequendy their breeches and
ftockings ftripped from off their bodies : fo that
thofe who flept, when they awake, and the fick
when they recover, muft run about in the cold
bare-headed, bare-footed, and half naked.
As long as the fhips are at anchor In thc
Texel, the medicine chefts muft not be opened,
but the neceffary medicines are taken out as
occafion requires. The patients are at this time kept

^8 THE TEJfEL, l77f.
kept oa the lower deck under the forecaftle ; bsg
as fobn as the fliip is out At fea, they are brottghi
up between decks as long as the capftan is ri«>f
tifed. For foch patients as have nb hammOCkS,
a fhelf is made of boards to fleCp upoh alt brtef
fide, and at the ether is placed one of the thdiU
cme-Chefts, the other being fet juft before th^
Windlafs, where dufring the whole vbyage the
patients are dreffed.
The phyfician of the Company, indeetJ, Df,
Famars, had ordered, by way of preventiftig in
fedion in the fhips, that the atteftdawtS fhoisld
hdd a fponge filled with vinegar in Hheir mouth^
stnd wafti tbenftfelves with vinegar; and the
healthy fliould drink tamarind-tea,, and tak^
fpirit of feurvy-grafs j that tbe con^alefceffl^
ffiould have tiwdure of bark Snd frefh muttofl f
that the fidies of the fl^iip fliould be- fprfftfelB^
with vinegar, fee. ; but thefe and other precaif*
tions' were not fufficient to put a ftop to the
prevailing contagion., which hardly ceafed d'aj
ring the voyage, till aimoft all the half-rotcoit
feltews fent in- by the kidnappers w<^re carried
off. On the 3ot:h of December, at three iri the'
afternoorij we fet faili and left the Texei witR a
favourable eafterly v)ind, that had lafted, and
even increafed, for the fpace of twenty-"fca!Wf
liours; Capt.-Mo«tAND, xi£ th€^ S^f> Bomf^fO^ kerpolder,

VOYAGE Tb THE CAPE, 1772. 79
kerpolder, as firft in command, having prevloufly
given the fignal, by the firing of guns, for
weighing the anchors. A great number of Eaft
India and other merchant fhips bore us com
pany. After the pilot, the cuftom-houfe offi
cers, and others, bad taken their leaves, and left
the fhip, and we had paffed the third tun or
beacon, we fired our guns, and wifhed each
other a happy voyage.
On tbe 3 ift, in the afternoon, we paffed the
Channel that feparates England from France.
177a, Jan. 3, we had got out of the Chan
nel into thc Bay cf Bifcay, when the water,
which hitherto had been green, now appeared
quite of a blue colour, and the air was confider
ably warmer.
On the ^b, among other d I flies, there wei-e
ferved up at night, at the officers' table, fome
pamcakes, for which the domine of: chaplain, as
caterer, had givea thc flour out to the fteward, and
by miftake, or rather from grofs ftupidity, had
taken almoft one half of fome white lead, which
had been put Into a pitcher, and fet by in the
cupboard, for the purpofe of painting the fhip ;
the extraordinary weight of which, however,
did not excite any fufpicion In him. The pan
cakes were thin, with brown fpots here and
-there fcattered over them, efpecially on one fide,
but otherwife white, and'as'dryas if there had
3 not

8o VOYAGE TO THE CAPE, 1 772.
not been a morfel of butter put into them.-'-*
The cook being fufpeded of having dreffed
them 111, and been too fparing of the butter^
was called In, and feverely reprimanded.—
Moft of the officers at table, however, ate a
pancake apiece, which tafted fomewhat fweetifh,
but betrayed no marks of poifon. The remain
der were confumed by the purfer and boys, fb
that In all twenty perfons partook of them. The
effed of the poifon was this, that fome of them
immediately threw it up again, efpeciaUy thc
boys, as having the moft irritable nerves ; others
did the fame in the night following, and dur
ing the whole of the next day. The white- lead,
fettled at the bottom of the veffel, was of a dark»
grey-colour. Though the verdigrife of fome
copper pan was now chiefly fufpeded, and thc
fea-ficknefs likewife came in for its Ihare of the
blame, yet at the fight of this fediment, it came
into my head to exaraine it more narrowly. I
therefore put a litde ofit on live coals, and with
a blow-pipe melted It into lead.
At the fame time I recoUeded, that the acjel
French wine which we drank at table, an^
which now rofe on our ftomachs, and tafted
quite fweet, could not be fo from the fmall quan,-
tity of fugar that was ftrewed on the pancakeg,
but might poffibly have been rendered fwggt
by means of fomething of the nature of leadg
This

VOYAGE TO THE CAPE, 1772, 8l
This, though I could not conceive how it was
brought about, induced me to make the experi
ment above mentioned. Thofe who happened
to vomit in the evening, got rid ofthe lead, and
recovered perfedly, as was the cafe with all the
boys that were fervants in the fhip. Nbr had
feveral of the officers, that vomited foon, any
farther inconvenience from it. Prbbably they
had got fome of the pancakes that were firft
fried, which confequently contained lefs white-
lead. Others, however, paid dearer for their
repaft, a circumftance which deferves to be re
lated feparately. The Captain, having vomit
ed, was wcU for a couple of days; bgt was
afterwards feized with a violent cholic, which
could not be aUeviated either by emollients ex
ternally appliedj emollient draughts, or clyfters,
but continued for two days ; after which a dbfe of
laudanum was given in the everiing, on which the
cholic entirely left hira, and never incommoded
him afterwards. He was of a confumpfrve habit j
and his cough kept away fbr feveral days in con
fequence of this accident; But nbbody was
more tormented than myfelf and the dothine*..
In the morning of the §th, 1 firft begari tb haVe
retchings, which continued almoft aU that day,
fo that I had in all between thirty arid forty fits
of vomiting, from which iboilt five fpoonfiils of
a brown fediment precipitated tb the bbttbm of
VOL. I G thei'

82 VOYAGE TO THE CAPE, I772,
the veffel. The pancake I had eaten was one
of the uppermoft in the difli, and confequendy
was one of thofe that were fried laft, and thus
contained a great quantity of white-lead, which,
on account of Its weight, had funk to the bot
tom of the pitcher. At the fame time I was
feized with the head-ach and choUc, whicb
latter fymptom however, was not very violent.
Already on the fame day the gums fwelled near
the roots of the teeth, forming fmall knobs, as
it were, that feemed to contain white-lead, ""and
were very fore ; the glands alfo fwelled in the
mouth, as well as thofe under the chin. The
faliva was very tough, and the tongue brownlfli.
By means of copious drinking, the vomiting was
promoted and rendered eafy, and an emoUient
gargle was ufed to aUay the fweUing in the
mouth. On the 6tb I was in a complete, but
gentle, falivation, and my mouth was ulcerated,;
efpecially at the fides, a circumftance which was
accompanied with a difagreeable ftench. My teeth
were covered with a yeUowifh flime. My urine
was reddifh. In order to carry the peccant mat
ter downwards, I took a gentie dofe of phyfic.
On the 'jth the falivation proceeded gentiy, and
the ulcers in my mouth grew quite yellow.
On the^ Sth I was a little better; but the night j
following, the whites of my eyes were inflamed,
an Inflammation which was difperfed with the,;
greateft eafc, merely by the fridion of the eye lids.

VOYAGE TO THE CAPE, 1772. 8j
lids. On the gth the tears flowed coploufly, were
fharp and corrofive. The right- fide of my face
fwelled, with a violent ear-ach; which was ex
tremely troublefome, particularly in fwallowing,
fo that it was with the greateft difficulty I could
drink, but it was irapoffible for rae to chew or
fwallow any thing folid. Towards noon a kind
of red fpots, of different fizes, appeared on my
fingers, as if caufed by cold, but which were
not very fore : thefe vanifhed in a few hours, and
made their appearance again in a couple of days.
On the IOth the fweUing of my throat abated,
and the peccant matter, or particles of lead,
moved from my head into my ftomach, and
caufed frefli fits of vomiting. On the nth this
•^omiting continued, with the appearance df a
fmaU quantity of blood. On the 1 2th the fame,
with more blood. I was now very Ibw from the
repeated vomitings. On the 13//& I had only
a naufea, and at times flight fits of the cholic.
On the i^th my raouth and throat were fo
very dry, that they felt as if they were glued
together, and the white-lead was perceived in
my faliva. On the i^th I had the cholic again,
with a ftiffnefs in ray knees, a fymptora which
was likewife experienced by four of the officers.
On the 19/^ I had a head-ach and naufea, with
^reat debility. ¦ On the 21ft the cholic again,
and flying pains in my right-arm, but fixed
pains In my knees, under the foles of my feet,
G 2 , and

$4 VOYAGE TO THE CAPE, 1772-
and between the very bones of my feet, info
much, that I could hardly walk. In this ftate
I continued till the 22d; afterwards I was toler-.
ably well, and by degrees regained my ftrength,?
tiU the beginning of February, when my pains
returned, attended with a violent rheumatifm;i .
which forced me on the gth of February to take
to my bed, on account of a weaknefs in my.
knees, which increafed daily. ,By way of cleanf
ing my ftomach, I immediately took an emetic,
On the i6th I had a violent head-ach, and painss
in my joints, with cholic, and even fever at noon-
and in the afternoon, when the pains were moft;
violent. During aU this time I took cooUng,
medicines for feveral days, and In the morning.'
an ounce of eleit. diapruni, which occafioned a,
cholera that weakened me apace, even to faint-
nefs, but immediately gave way to a dofCi of
laudanum. And afterwards, though I was able>
to quit my bed, yet I was conftantly afflided';
with a heavinefs in my head, and weaknefs in .
my knees, which continued without any remark
able alteration till the 23^, when the heavinef?ft, ,
in my head increafed, and was accompanied
with a pain in my right-ear. On the 2ith my.
head ached violently, with hard throbbings on
the right-fide, and that to fuch a degree, that,
when fitting upright in my bed, or otherwife. in.
motion, I was almbft in convulfions, - and was :
under. {!;

Voyage to the cape, 1772. 85
under fome apprehenfions of an apoplexy. My
ear-ach was alfo very violent, and at times I felt
fome fymptoms of the tooth-ach, all on the
right-fide. I therefore ordered myfelf to be
bled, and ufed the antiphlogiftic regimen. On
the 2^th the farne fymptoms continued with al
moft unabated force, and I paffed the night reft-
lefs. On the 26th my ear-ach had entirely left
me, and the throbbing in my head was much
abated ; but inftead of thefe, I was feized with
pains in all my joints, which in fome of them
were flight, in others again more fevere, efpe
cially In my knees and elbows, fo as to produce
fome degree of lamenefs. My cholic had
abated, but a violent and momentary pain darted
at times from my left kidney. When I lay on
my back, I was troubled with an afthma (which
was fometiraes better and foraetimes worfe) and
a dry cough. The fymptoms (perhaps from
the heat of the day) were always aggravated from
ten in the morning tlU four In the afternoon,
when my pulfe likewife was high and intermit
tent. My ftomach could not bear any thing acid
mixed with my drink : as for inftance, infufion
of tamarinds, lemon-juice, &c. but only now
and then a drop or two offpiritus nitri dulcis
in my tea. The application of a blifter to the
nape of my neck did not abate my head-ach
in the leaft. On the 2Zth the throbbing in ray
G 3 head

86 voyage to the cape, 1772.
head ceafed, as well as my dyfpncea, though my
head ftill continued to be as heavy as lead, and
I had an obfcure pain in my joints. Towards
evening this pain increafed, even in the fhoul
ders, lafted the whole of the 2gth, after which
it became ftiU more violent. On the ift of
March, and the following days, it abated, but
the heavinefs in my head, and the weaknefs in
my knees, together with fome degree of pain,
caufed by the particles of lead depofitcd there,
continued for a long time, and would undoubt-r
edly have impaired my health in a greater de
gree than they did, had I not arrived in fuch
a delightful country as that of the Cape of.
Good Hope; wherc I could ufe a great deal"
of exercife, and receive refrefhment from all the
agreeable fruits, vegetables,' and wines, which'
this country, in the hands of the induftrious
Europeans, produces.
The domine, or chaplain, was at firft likewife
feized with violent voraitings and cholic, hi^
gums fwelling, as did alfo thofe of the com
mander of the foldiers, and their mouths brok?
out into ulcers, which turned yellow, though
the latter of thefe gentiemen had not fuch yioy'
lent fits of vomiting, nor was fo much torment
ed with the cholic. Towards the end of Janu^
ary the domine had a frefti accefs of the choUc, 'whici>

VOYAGE TO THE CAPE, 1772. 87
which was with difficulty removed by emollients,
and a few days after returned with a perfed
iliac paffion ; neither rhubarb nor decodion of
fena, nor the ufual acid clyfters, nor purgative
puis, could remove this obftrudion ; recourfe
therefore was had to a clyfter of a decodion of
tobacco, which at firft had no effed, for which
reafon it was repeated, when a paffage was pro
cured ; but the cholic pains and the vomiting
did not ceafe, till a confiderable dofe of lauda
num had been exhibited.
The cook's mate alfo, in the courfe of a few
days, when his firft fits of vomiting were over,
was alfo feized with the choUc, which at firft
yielded to the ufual remedies, but afterwards re
turned, and increafed to fuch a degree, that on
the 2d of February we were apprehenfive that an
inflammation of the bowels had taken place,
as the patient was almoft raving mad with the
pain, and atterapted to rip up his own belly : he
was therefore bled, and a clyfter was adminifter-
ed, which eafed him a littie ; but the foUowing
day his cholic turned to the iliac paffion. No
paffage could bc procured by ftrong clyfters,
purgative pills, nor even by tobacco-clyfters at
firft, tiU two or three of them had been adminif- "
tered in vain, Laudanura was afterwards given
him to eafe his cholic, but this did not affift him
fo weU as at firft, but only gave him eafe for a
G 4 ' fliort

88 voyage to THE CAPE, I772-
fhort rime. On this account a bUfter jwas' ap
pUed to the region, pf the ftomach: this per
fedly removed the cholic, but the patient was
afterwards lame in one thigh, fo as not to be ables
to walk, an inconvenience, however, which went
away gradually of itfelf.
Though no Ufe was loft In confequence of this
unfortunate accident with the white-lead, yet,
as I myfelf was the principal fufferer frbm It>
it .taught me to be more particular and careful
with refped to my diet in the courfe of my
travels afterwards.
January 17. To-day we made Port Santo on
the ftarboard. The Dutch veffels, efpecially if
they have been beating up and down a long
time In the north-fea, in general make for' St.
Jago, in order to take in frefli-water and fome
provifions ; though the water is faid not to keep
well on board. As we had a fair wind, we
paffed by this place, that we might not be re
tarded on our voyage.
On the I gth we had the lofty yellow and red
mountains of the grand Canary on our right-
hand, and Fort Ventura on our left.
On the 20th we got into the trade-wind.
pn the 26th divine fervice was performed on
board for the firft time during the whole voyage,
and confifted of prayers, finging, and reading in
the Bible. Morning and evening prayers were
1 afterwards

VOYAQE TO THB CAPE, I772. 89
afterwards read feveral times, when the weather
was fine; but not often.
In the evenings and nights there appeared
thoufands of ffiining animals, like ftars, in the
track of the foip ; as alfo large balls which threw
a Ught, like faint flaffies of lightening, in at the
cabin windows.
On the igtb we were In lat. 15°.
In the night of February the 3^, and the fol
lowing nights, when we were in the Sth degree
of latitude, it lightened without any thunder
being heard. This was faid to be a fign, of
wind, though it did not prove fo then. We
caught forae fifli, and fome large birds, caUed
pialmucks. The heat grew every day more and
more intolerable; and lemon-juice with fugar
was now an extremely acceptable and refrefoing
beverage. On the Sth we faw an elegant water-fpout-
The column began below, near the water, in
fmaU fcattered clouds as it were, from which it
afterwards arofe In the form of a flender arched
chord with fmooth fides, and when arrived above
the middle.of its height, grew thick by degrees, ,
and terminated in a cloud. Its duration was but
ffiort, as it vaniffied foon after we defcried it.
On the 21/ the fliip was followed by a great
number of fifoes, which have the laft radius of
the fin on their back, very long {balUftes).
On

go VOYAGE TO THE CAPE, 1772'
On the 22d, a little before noon, we paffed
the line. The heat was now fo great that but
ter was liquid, Uke oil, and the fealing-wax on
letters was fo fofiened, that when the letters were
laid together, the impreffion of the feal was ef
faced. Flying-fifli (exocsetus volitans) appeared
now in great numbers : they flew generally In
one diredion, and foraetimes, though but fel
dom, in contrary diredions. A kind of large
birds of a black colour were feen, flying very
high. The fcurvy now began to prevail more
than ever. Our water, notwithftanding that
quickfilver had been put into It, grew putrid,
and began to emit a cadaverous fmell, and gene
rated maggots, fo that It could not be drank but
in tea or coffee ; but in the courfe ofa few weeks
it purified itfelf, and after having precipitated to
the bottom aU its filth and Infeds, became fweet
and palatable. In the mean-tirae, rain-water
was colkded more than once, notwithftanding
it had been prohibited, on the fuppofition of its
generating difeafes, befides, that it tafted of
pitch from the cordage of the foip. Ale was
reported to keep. If two eggs were put ¦ Into the
barrel to diffolve in it.
On the iSth we paffed the line again. As
foon as we were come a little to the fouthward
of the line, the wind increafed by degrees,' though
it was frequendy rather unfavourable, driving us
towards

VOYAGE TO THE CAPE, I772. 91
, towards the American fide above feventy leagues
from the foore. The cold alfo increafed daily,
In proportion as we approached the fouthern
pole. On the 24/^ of March we were in the latitude
of the Cape of Good Hope. Here we caught dol
phins, and ate them.
On the 2Sth, the large birds, caUed malmucks,
which are brown and white underneath, paffed us
in great numbers, which was confidered as a fign
of our not being far from foore. When tired,
they fat themfelves down to reft upon the waves.
They did not appear on the foUowing days.
On the 2Sth, a plant of the fpecies caUed
trumpet-grafs (fucus buccinalis) was feen floating
on the water, which was a fure fign of the vicinity
of the Cape, from the ffiores of which it is fre
quendy torn off, and carried out to fea by the
waves. The nuraber of patients, which ever fince the
beginning of the voyage, had been very great,
began now confiderably to decreafe, though not
till very many lives had been loft.
The difeafes raoft common on board were
fpotted fevers, putrid fevers, ofa bad fort, catar
rhal fevers more or lefs of a malignant nature .5
rheumatifms, eryfipelas, fcurvy, large and malig
nant ulcers, abfceffes, coughs, diarrhoea, dyfen
tery, the venereal difeafe, &c. The failors that
ftood

^2 VOYAGE TO THE CAPE, I772.
ftood at the helm, and often perfpiring profufely,
did not take care to avoid catching cold, -fre
quentiy feU fick. StiU, however, difeafes were
more frequent and fatal among the foldiers, whofe
juices were corrupt and tainted.
¦ Attendants were appointed, according as they
were wanted, for the fick, to give them nourifo-
ment and medicines, to help them to get in and
out of their hammocks, and to fee that the con-
valefcents on deck kept up in the frefo air.
Seldom did any fever terminate with a regular
or good crifis; for the patients would either* lay
quite naked, or elfe quit their beds when in a
perfpiration, fteal out of them to drink cbld
water, or to befprinkle themfelves with it.—'
Hence various met^ftafes fupervened in the forra*
of dreadful abfceffes in their arms, hands, legs,
and cheeks, fome of which turned to gangrenes,
and others exhaufted the patients to death. Some
of the fick were, more or lefs, afflided with deaf-
nefs. If the metaftafes affeded the thighs, a vio-
Icnfpain in thefe parts was the confequence; if
in the eyes, the patient could hardly fee; if, in the
feet, it would produce a dropfy in the legs,— •
Some few were feized with the variola fpuria.'
As to the fymptoms ofthe fevers, feveral patients
were taken with an obftinate vomiting, while
others were afflided with as obftinate a diarrhoea.
In the malignant kinds of fever, a furor fre
quendy

VOYAGE TO TME CAPE, I772. pj
quendy fupervened; but in one or two of the
patients, a mild and harralefs delirium acceded,
in which they fong during the whole of the laft
twenty -foiir hours before they died.
During the voyage we had conftandy about
a hundred and fifty patients on the lift, till we
had paffed the line, and the moft infirm and dif
abled part ofthe crew were carried off by death.
With a view to the prevention of difeafes du
ring the voyage, orders were given that the ven
tilators foould be conftantly kept in play ; and
that fpecial care foould be taken not to fuffer any '
diforderly feUow to fleep In the- day, and get
drunk at night ; and, in order to introduce frefo
air between the decks, that the air-fail foould be
kept conftantly'hanging through the main-hatch
way. In fair weather the crew were kept upon'
deck, whither alfo their chefts and hammocks .
were brought to be aired, whilft the foip was
cleanfed, fraoked with juniper-berries and gun
powder, and fprinkled with vinegar. Befides
thefe precautions, the failors were encouraged to
give tl»emfelves up to fports and mirthful amufe-
ments, to wafo and keep themfelves very clean,
as alfo to dry their clothes, and change them
frequently. >
The patients were vifited twice a day by the
furgeon, viz. at eight in the morning and four
inthe afternoon, when the firft dreffing was per
formed.

94 VO-fAGE TO THE CAPE, 1772.
foriTied, The names of fuch patients as were
able to walk to the medicine-cheft were fet down;^
on a board, together with the medicines to be
given that day. Next, thofe who were confined
to their beds were vifited ; after which the fur
geon made his report to the captain, or the offi
cer of the watch, if any died on the preceding
night, as alfo of the number and difeafes of the
patients. The names of the deceafed are taken
down on a flip of paper, and a lift is alfo made
out of the fick, and delivered to the boatfwain,
that they may not be caUed upon watch.
The furgeon prefcribes the diet of the patients,
and the purfer is to make provifions for it ac
cordingly. Such as are extremely IU are in^
dulged with fome foup, or other difoes that come
from the officers table. What raay be wanted'
befides the medicines, or for the preparation of
them, fuch as frefo water, fugar, vinegar, oil,
lemon-juice, Spanifo and white French wine,"
faltpetre, geneva, and the like, is put down
upon a lift, which is delivered to thc firft-
matev When the furgeon has made his report of the
death of any perfon, the mate of the watch im
mediately orders his cheft to be brought upon
deck, and diftributes his clothes among thofe
who' have occafion for them. The

VOVAGE TO THE CAPE, 1773, 95
. The furgeon keeps an account of the fick,
with the raedicines prefcribed for them, as wtU
as of the deceafed, which lift is delivered to the
governor at the place of the foip's deftination. •
When the foip is in harbour, and any one
dies on board, a jack Is hoifted half-way up the
ftaff, in confequence of which a coffin is fent in
a boat to bring the corpfe on foore ; but if a
man dies when the foip is out at fea, the corpfe
is fewed up In a hammock, laid out for the fpace
ofa few hours before the main-maft, and then
thrown overboard with fome ballaft of fand or
lead at the feet, that it may fink.
When a man makes his wiU, it is figned by
the boatfwain, the gunner, and a few others.
The ration or allowance of certain articles,
fuch as oil, tamarinds, lemqn-juice, butter,
cheefe, &c. which ought to be diflributed once
a week, or, at any rate, once In a fortnight, is
frequently given' out but once in a month or
five 'weeks, juft as the captain and firft-roate
chufe, or find it to fuit their purpofe. Hence it;
coraes, that either feveral articles are embezakd
and kept from the men, which the officers above-
mentioned afterwards difpofe of, or elfe that the
men get more at once than they have veffels to
keejp it in, or can ftow. In their fmall chefts
among their clothes and rags ; not to raention,
that when they get a larger ration than ordinary they

g6 VOYAGE TO THE CAPE, 1772,
they are lavifo of it at firft, and afterwards havc
nothing left. It frequentiy happens alfo, that.
either the whole or fome part of it is ftolen from
fuch as are not poffeffed of cunning enough to
enable them to fecrete it properly. The aUow
ance of meat, however, and falt-pqrk, is more
frequently and more regularly diftributed. Of
vinegar, oil, fait, and pepper, the crew in' general
have as much as they ftand in need of; but half
a pound of butter only Is allowed to each man
per week, and three pounds and a half of bread.
The cook receives for every man, on' Tuefday;
a pound of-falt-pork, on Thurfday butchers'
meat, on Friday ftock-fifo, on Sunday peas
and meat, and fometimes, by way of change;,
barley-groats, peas and beans, potatoes, red-
cabbage, and various kinds of onions, together
with horfe-radifo and carrots, and fometimes
frefo-meat or falt-pork, are alfo diftributed^
among the crew. As foon as the foip was in
the open fea, every man received three whole
cheefes, of a few pounds weight.
The company fends out ftockings likev/Ife,
and clothes made of coarfe and thin cloth, whiche i
are delivered out upon credit to fuch as chufe
to avail themfelves of this privilege ; this dif-
trlbution is made at the captain's pleafure, to
hofe whom he favours, and not always where
t is wanted, I Oft

VOYAGE TO THE CAPE, 1 773. 97
On the 30//?', feveral large birds appeared in
fight, and by their arrival gave us to underftand
that we approached nearer to the Cape. Clothes
were now, for the fecond time, diftributed among
fiBch of the foldiers as had been hitherto half-
naked. On the ']th of AprU, befantjes, or Portuguefe
men of war {bolothuria phyfalis) were feen failing
on the water. The large malmucks now alfo
appeared in greater numbers, and a contrary
wind prevented us from approaching nearer to
the coaft.
On the IOth, the effeds of a deceafed failor
were put up at audiorf before the maft. The
fum amounted to fixty-eight guilders, one^half
of which was given to the poor in Holland, and
the other half to thofe at the Cape, without any
regard being paid to the legal heirs of the de
ceafed. At four. in the afternoon a foip was
feen, as alfo a little blue and white bird, of the
fize ofa fwallow, hovering over the water. Two
whales (balana) paffed us. Already the water,
in confequence of its increafing foallownefs,
changed from black lo green ; a certain indica
tion to the faifor of the vicinity of land,
'On the I Ith, land-birds were feen, which are
diftinguifoed from the fea-fowl 'by their flower
flight, and by their fluttering more with their
wmgs. Towards ten o'clocjc Table Mountain
VOL. I, H, began

gS ¦VOYAGE TO THE CAPE, 1 772.
began to foow its head, and the water was ex'-
tremely green.
On the f2th, we were overtaken by a fouth-
eafterly wind, which prevented us from gaining
the harbour, and obliged us to beat up and dowa
for a few days at fea.
On the i^h, we faw whales fpouting, the feals
{phoea) fporting, and trumpet-grafs (fucus bue^
cinalis) floating in great abundance. Upon
this laft the land-birds would often fit down to
reft. On the i^tb, a confiderable number of fea-
fowls were feen fwimming before the bar-:
bour. On the i6th, we arrived fafely in the road in
Table Bay, dropt our anchor, fired our guns,
and with mutual joy congratulated each other.
Immediately on our arrival, the fuperinten-
dant over the foips came to us from the town,
accompanied by a furgeon ; the former to fetch
off the letters and papers for the company, and
the latter to get information with refped to thc
number of people that had died during the voy
age, and of thofe that were ftill indlfpofed. The
number of the latter was now not very great,
but that of the former amounted to a hundred
and fifteen, of which ten died before we left the
Texel, and two had unfortunately fallen over
board. The other foips in our company fuf->
fered

THE CAPE, 1772. g9
fered a ftill greater mortality, viz. the Hoencoop
one hundred and fifty-eight in aU, of whom one
hundred and thirty-fix died while we were in the
Texel. The IVilliam V. loft in all two hundred
and thirty men, and the Jonge Samuel, of Zeelandi
one hundred and three.
We were hardly corae to an anchor, before a
crowd of black flaves and Chinefe came in their
fmall boats to fell and barter, for clothes and
other goods, frefo meat, vegetables, and fruit, all
of which our crew were eager to procure.
In the road we found, among others, a Swe-^
difo foip, which had arrived but a foort time
before at this fouthernmoft point of Africa, and
had brought my friend, Profeffor Sparrman.
On the ijth, 1 went with the captain on fliore,
and took a lodging- at M. Hendrik Fehrsen's
hoyfe. Being fafely arrived at the Cape of Good Hope,
my firft care was to wait on the lieutenant-gover
nor. Baron Joachim von Plettenberg, and
the other gentlemen of the regency, to whom I
was recommended, in order to deliver to them
the letters I had brought with me. And as the
refpedable and univerfally-beloved veteran. Go
vernor Tulbagh, had, in confequence of age
an,d gout, on the nth of Auguft in the pre
ceding year, exchanged this life for a better,
I delivered the letters direded for him to Baron
H 2 Plet-

too the cape, 1772.
Plettenberg, who received me with the
greateft kindriefs, and promifed tb affift me in
my defign of travelling into the interIo!r part of
the country, during the term of my refidencfeln
that quarter of the globe.
Whereas In my native country, to the north
ward of the equator, the moft delightful bf the
feafons, fpring, was now approaching ; here, to
to the fouth of the line, winter was ftealing upon
us, fo that I could not as yet, or for feveral
months to Come, travel to any advantage throu^
the interior parts of the country, but muft wait
till the beginning of September. The ititer-
venipg months I employed in Inforrning mylSf
of the internal ceconomy and inftitutions of the
Company, and examined the plants and anirnah
in the environs of the town, and in the neigh
bouring mountains, making alfo foort exCoi'fibliiS
into the country, which I was in hopes of pene
trating deeper into afterwards, and of viewilig
it with a curious and bbferving eye.
The Cape df Good Hope is the extreme p6int
ef Africa, and of the Old Wdrtd, to the fdufh-
Ward» and is probably the moft capital prbmbW-
tory In the whole world.
Bartolomew Diaz, a Forttiguefe, was the
firft who difcovered this promontory in I4'f7,
and King Emanuel g&v^ it the name of the'Cape .
of Good Hope. Vasco de Ga'ma vifited it riext •¦

THE CAPE, 1772. iOl
in 1497, by order of the fame monarch. Ac
cording to the obfervations of M. de la Caillf,
it is fituated in lat. 23 deg. 35 min. S. and in
long. 35 deg. 2 min. E.
The foips that anchor in Table Bay, in a con
fiderably extenfive road, are fomewhat above a
mik diftant from the town.
The day after our arrival our fick men were
taken to the hofpital, attended by the furgeon's-
mate; and afterwards the foldiers, under the
condud of their commanding officer, who was
to ferye in the capacity of ferjeant after his arrival
pn foore.
The town is very regularly buUt, from the
foore along the declivity formed by the Table
Mountains, and its ftreets cut the quarters at
right angles, the whole being bounded at the
back part by Table Monntain {Taffelberg), to tl^e
weftward by Lion Mountain {Leuweberg), and
towards the eaft, in fome meafure, by the De-
Mil's Mountain {Duyvelfberg). So that it is,
moft open towards the fouthern and eaftern
fides. In difembarking, one is not inconamoded here
by the foutting of toU-gates or by cuftom-houfe
officers. The town has neither walls nor gates*
and yet enjoys a perfed fecurity in a land of
fevages,
H3 Tl»

lot THE CAPE, 1772.
¦^ The houfes are all of brick, white-wafoed,
and one, feldom two, but very rarely three
ftories high, and covered in for the moft part
with flat roofs of brick- work, or a kind of grafs
indigenous to this country {reftio teriorum) laid
upon very low frame work. On account ofthe
violence of the winds that prevail here, the roofs
cannot be tiled over, nor raifed higher. The
houfe of the lieutenant-governor, and the com
pany's warehoufe, were the only houfes that
were three ftories high- '
The domeftics here do not confift of Euro-r
peans, but of black or tawny flaves from Mala-'
'bar, Madagafcar, or other parts of India. Thefe,.,
in general, fpeak either broken Portuguefe, or
elfe the Malabar, feldom the Dutch language,
and learn various trades, by which they bring
their mafters confiderable profit, efpecially fuch
as are taylors, carpenters, bricklayers, or cooks,'
The flaves are let out by the month, week, or
day, during which term they are to earn for their
mafters a certain fixed fom per diem. The male
flaves wear their own hair, upon which they ftt
a great value, wrapped up in a twlfted handketr
chief like a turban, and the females wreath' up
their hair and fix it on their heads with a large
pin. Trowfers conftltute the other part of their
drefs; and as a token of their fervile condition,
|hey always go barefoot,' and without a hat. ¦ '
4 Pr^yiousi

TKE CAPE, 1772. 103
Previous to the company's fitting down to
meals, either dinner or fopper, a female flave
brings a wafo-hand bafon and towel, to wafo
their hands, which is alfo done on the company's
rifing from table. In the houfes of the wealthy,
every one of the company has a flave behind his
chair to wait on him. The flave has frequently
a large palm leaf in his hand, by way of a fan,
to drive away the flies, which are as troublefome
here as they are in Sweden.
As well within as without the town, neat and
excellent gardens are laid out, both for fruit and
culinary vegetables, being watered by the ftreams
that rundown from the mountains. Among thefe
that extenfive and beautiful -garden belonging to
the company diftlngulfoes itfelf, like an old oak
amidft a thicket of bufoes. It is from thefe
gardens that the ftranger, on his arrival, meets
with his firft refrefoments ; and from their fuper
fluous ftock the Dutch and other foips are fup
plied with ftores for their voyage. The garden-
feeds muft be brought every year frefo from
Holland, as they otherwife, almoft all, degene
rate in time, excepting the feeds of cauUflowers,
which are brought to great perfedion here, and
on that account exported from hence to Holland,
where they gradually degenerate.
Apples, pears, and other European fruits, are
raeUower and riper, but have not that flavour
H 4 which

IG4 THE GAPEj 1772.
which they have in Europe, neither wil^they keep
long. Nor are the peaches produced here equal
in goodnefs to thofe of the fouth of Europe,
They are fometimes dried like pears, with or
without their ftones.
The trees imported from Europe, fuch as oak
{quercus' robur), the white poplar (populus alba)^
and others, foed their leaves in the winter, as
they do in their native places, whereas the
African trees do not part with theh's. It Is not
long, however, before they recover their leaves
again. This circumftance Is fingular enough:
firft, becaufe the cold here in winter is not more
fevere than it is in Sweden in the autumn ; and in
the fecond place, becaufe they foed their leave^i
to the fouthward of the equator at the very time
that they put them forth to the northward of it.
The lime-trees (tilia Europaa) do not thrive
wcU, on account of the violent winds that rage
here; and the fame may be faid of the hazel
{cgrylus avellana), cherry-tree (prunus cerafus),
goofeberry-tree {ribes groffularia & uva crifpa),
currant-tree (ribes rubrum i£ nigrum), all of
¦which degenerates and feldom yield any fruit.
The myrtle {myrtus communis) grows to the
height of a tree, though its ftem is neither
thick nor ftiff, nor does it throw out many.
branches. For this reafon it feems to be pro
per, and indeed, is freqiientiy ufed, for formipg:, high-

THE CAPE, 1772. 105
high hedges, in a country fubjed to violent
winds, as Its fupple ftem bends to the ftorm.
The foot of the mountain, or the hills round
the town, confifted ofa red flame-coloured clay,
which proceeds froiTi the water's running down
the cracks, and tinging the earth with its acid,
charged with ferruginous particles. Higher up
on the hills, lie fcattered without order, ftones of
all fizes, that have been rolled down from the
mountains. Among others I vifited M. Auge, the gar
dener, who has made many, and thofe very long,
excurfions into the interior part of the country,
and has colleded all the plants and infeds,
which the late Governor Tulbagh fent to
Europe to Linn,/5Eus, and to the Profeffors
Burmann and Van Royen. And as he ftill
continued his journies yearly into the countiy,
he fold to ftrangers, as well herbals as birds
and infeds. It was of him that M. Grub.b,
the diredor of the bank in Sweden, purchafed
that fine coUedion of plants, which was after
wards prefented to Profeffor Bergius, and lb
well defcribed by this latter gentieman in his
book of the Planta Capenfes. M. Auge's
knowledge of botany was not very confiderable,
nor did his coUedions In general extend much
farther than to the great and the beautiful ; but,
in the mean tirae, we are almoft folely indebted

io6 the cape, 177a,
to him for all the difcoveries which have been
made fince the days of Hermannus, Oldenlandus,
and Hartogius, in this part of Africa.
The citadel is fituated on the fea7 foore, be
low the city to the eaftward, and is furrounded
with high waUs and deep ditches ; there is room
enough in it for the governor, though he never
lives there, as weU as for the major, the other
officers, and the foldiers. At fon-fet the great
gate is fout, when all the foldiers, that have
not leave of abfence, are fummoned by beat of
drum, and their names caUed over in each com
pany. The little gate is kept open till ten
o'clockj when the foldiers, who are abfent, with
out having prevloufly obtained leave of abfence; ||
for the night, are fummoned by a bell, and their
names are called over ; the gate is after this not
to be opened till the morning, except in cafe of
neceffity, fuch as to fetch a midwife. A fur
geon always fleeps in the caftle.
The firft thing a foldier muft provide himfelf
with, is his own uniform ; this he receives of the
company, but muft ferve to the amount of its
value. Every third year the company orders
a number of new uniforms to be made for the
ufe ofthe militia, and at no other time. If it
foould fo happen that the quantity ready-made
foould not fuffice for recruits that arrive during this

THE CAPE, 1772. 107
this interval, they muft for fome time do their
duty In their own clothes, and frequently in the
jackets of the zeeherkoopers, or kidnappers, who
have fent them thither.
Soldiers, who have received in Holland what
is called a biU of tran fport, receive no pay till
they have ferved to the full value of it. This
takes at leaft a year and a half, or more ; during
which time they only receive a little fubfiftcnce-
money and fervice-money. What more they
may want for fubfiftence and clothes, they muft
earn by any trade that they may happen to have
learned, or by doing duty for the others on their
lelfure days. A foldier who has learned a good
trade, may earn half a dollar a day, and pays
to him that does duty for him four fcheUings.
They have alfo an opportunity of making fome
thing by wafoing for others. A foldier may in
deed obtain double fubfiftence-money ; but then,
two guilders, per month are deduded from his
pay, for what they term fubfidy-money.
The foldiers go upon guard every other or
every third day, and confequendy have a day
or two to themfelves. The fame guard conti
nues for twenty-four hours together, and con
fifts in the fmaller pofts of a corporal and three
men ; but In the greater, of a ferjeant and twelve
men. When a man has been upon guard two
hours, he is relieved, and exempt from duty, tiU

re>8 THE CAPE, 177?.
tiU four hours more are expired, when he goes
«pon guard again.
A foldier is obliged to ferve five years, ex
clufive of the time taken up in the voyage, dur
ing which term he is not at liberty to retiurri
heme ; but by the favour of the officers, con
fiderable dcdudions may be made from this
term, infpmuch, that fometimes a foldier returns
by the fame foip that brought him. Sometime^
a foldier is alfo metamorphofed into a failor for
this purpofe.
Wbe,n his agreement is at an end, he may
either return home or renew it ; if he chufes t;he
latter, which is generally done for three years
at firft, his pay is increafed two gyilders more per
month ; this term being expired, he may engage
for two years more, and then receives a frefo
augmentation of two guilders per month ; but In
cafe of his continuing in the fervice after that
term, his pay is augmented no more, unlefs,
indeed, he is advanced. A foldier, if he has re
ceived any education, may be advanced to be a
corporal, ferjeant, or officer, to be an affiftant
in afadory, or to be furgeon, if he has learned
that art In Europe.
There are feveral raeans by which a foldier
may be releafed from the obligation of doing
duty. The moft common way is by v^hat they
call a furlough ; in this cafe he is exempt from
% all

THE CAPE, 1772. 109
aU duty, and at full liberty to get his livelihood
in what manner foever he is abk, or by any trade
that he may have leamed. For this he pays
Four dollars per month, and to the adjutant of
the company one foiUing, in which cafe he re
ceives his monthly pay. Of the inen befonging
to the garrifon, there were now about one hun
dred and fifty that had furloughs. The profi^ts
of the forloughs are diftributed among that patt
of the garrifon that does duty, and are called
fervice-money ; a foldier receives eight or nine,
a corporal twelve, and a ferjeant fixteen foU-
KnigS; the remainder is divided 'between the
officers. The fBrlough-money is to be ipaid
duly, the laft day of every month, into the hands
of the chaplain, whofe duty it is to receive it.
In time of war thefe furloughs are nbt given,
but every one muft then do duty. The gover
nor takes from among the foldiers as many as
he chufes, to work gratis for him ; the major
takes four and twenty or more ; the fifcal t'wb,
the book-keeper one, and fo on. Thefe then
are either to work for the above-mentioned gen
tlemen, or to pa;y them their furlough-money.
The greater number there is taken of theffe men,
the heavier does the duty fall upon the reft bf
the foldiers, '
Thc foldiers receive their pay of the*lietfte-
^ant of the company every four months ; which
for this reafon is caUed the good month. If

IIO THE CAPE, 1772.
If any perfon in the town or country wifoes
for a foldier, either as a teacher for his children,
pr to work in his foop, he may get one by the
means juft indicated ; but if fuch foldier has
taken up a bill of tranfport in HoUand, this muft
how be repaid to the value of about eighty dol
lars, for which the fellow muft ferve till It is
paid off: if in the mean time he foould die, the
lofs will be on the fide of the tradefman.
Sailors may in the fame manner take out fur
loughs, by paying to the purfer eight dollars
per month.
A perfed immunity from fervice, as well as
erafure from the paymafter's books, may indeed
be alfo obtained ; but on no other confideration,
than that of being held difqualified for the com
pany's fervice.
There are others, called lichten, who neither
do duty, nor have any furloughs, nor receive
any pay, and are always at their full liberty in
time of peace j but when once they enter into
the fervice again, they muft ferve their five years'
out, for which they agreed.
Prayers are read in the citadel every morning
and evening by a chaplain. On Sunday a fen
tinel is placed before the church-door, but
within the church-door a foldier would fcarcely
be tolerated. Before

THE CAPE, 1772. Ill
Before the citadel, in a large convenient place,
are laid the wine and water caflcs that come
from the foips to be repaired; as likewife a
great quantity of planks and fpars. In order to
prevent any thing from being ftolen, a fentinel is
placed here In the night-time. This poft is not
unprofitable, when the foldier happens to catch
a young fellow engaged in clofe converfation
with fome female friend ; In which cafe he muft
make the foldier a corapliraent of a few dol
lars to avoid being taken into cuftody, and dif
covered, or, at aU events, incommoded and dif^
turbed in his mentis plaifirs.
If a foldier falls fick, he is taken to the hofpi
tal, where he has medicines and his diet gratis,
till he recovers, but he receives no pay, except
his foare of the furlough-money. Yet, if his
difeafe is of a venereal nature, even this is with
held from him. If he does not chufe to go to
the hofpital, he is at liberty to go elfewhere,
though then he is obliged to pay his own phyfi
cian, his attendants, and other neceffary ex
pences, out of his own purfe, but receives his
pay and fubfiftence-money.
Chimnies are not ufed in this country, nor
are they wanted ; and to ftoves they are utter
ftrangers. Yet I have known a family or two
that had a fire-place in their hall, though rather
for pleafure than, for any other occafion they had

'112 THE CAPI, 1772.
had for it. The ladies have generaUy live coals
in a kind of covered chaffing-difo or ftove,,
which in winter time they fet on the ground
tinder their clothes to warm them.
The cold is fevereft in the months of Auguft
or September, efpecially on mornings and even
ings, when it rain's or blows hard, The wind
feels very piercing on account of the thin cloth
ing that is worn here. The winter at the Cape
Tefembles the months of Auguft, September,
and Odober in Sweden.
The mothers in this country feldom put their
children out to nurfe, but fuckle them them
felves, for which reafon they have, in general,
eafier labours.
There are a few families have defcended from
Blacks In the female 'line, for three generations
back. The firft generation proceeding from an
European who Is married to a tawny flave, that
has been made free, remains tawny, but ap
proaching to a white complexion ; but the chil
dren df the third generation, mixed witii Euro'-
peans, become quite white, and are often re
markably beautiful.
The flave-houfe of the Company is adjacent
to the garden, and contains a great number of
flaves, who work in the garden- and on buUd
ings, carry burdens from the foips, &c. Thofe
that are fick here have a furgeon to attend them.

THE.QAPE,. 1772. 113
thern. . The company brings the greateft part
of its flaves from Madagafcar, whereas private
perfons buy, their's of the officers belonging to
the fliips, as well Dutch as French, that are on
their return home from the Eaft Indies, feldom
of the Englifo, and never of the Swedifo.
, Before the foips weigh anchor, all the con-
valefcents are feleded out from the hofpital,
and diftributed on board the fhips.
The officers of the foips, during their ftay
here, fell to great advantage feveral European
com.tnoditles, fuch as wine, ale, tobacco-pipesj ,
coarfe and fine hardware, clothes, fooes, glafsi .
and houfehold furniture ; the European hams,
beef, faufagesi tongues, herrings, fiock- fifo, fal-
mon, and cheefe, with fome other articles, ^yere
alfo In great requeft.
.*Whereas the foreign foips, that flrop here, lie
iti the roads a foort time only to take In provifions; ,
and theri refume their voyage, the Dutch foips
are obliged to flop a great while, in orders to
take the convalefcents on board, who after all
come thither in a very indifferent ftate of health.
"The Dutch have alfo occafion for a greater
number of failors to work their foips than other-
nations, as their rigging is made after the old
fafoion, with large blocks and thick cordage,
heavy and clumfy in every refped.
VOL. I. i The

14 THE CAPE, i7^2J
The company's garden h always open to tliii
ublic. It is nine hundred arid riinety-Gx paces
>ng, two hundred and fixty-brie broad, and has
)rty-four quarters, which are feparated frottt
ich other by hedges, .confifting, for the moft
art, of baks br bay's {laurus nobilis); feveral
irds In height, t obferved here, that a roy'efia
Hlq'fa, that greyp befide one of thefe bakS, had'
lirly perforated one of it^ branches throligh th'fe
^y trunk of thfe bak, in \vhich it ii'bW grew
'it a parafitic plant. Iri likfe fhAnhCr I bb-
Fv'ed In another garden, iri ^hich a feal hk'S
jeh fixed betWeeh twb tree's, that th6 bark bf
ie ofthe trees had grbwrt bVer the feat, like a
h|lis [botettis), and held h i&ft, Ih th6 men'a-
;Hfe Verfe feveriil r^'re arid uncotrim'on aiiiinndfe^j
id particularly great numbers bt bii-ds.
IVIale arid female flavCs though beloriging
different mafters, frequentiy cohabit tbgethe'r,
' pe'tmifiibri of their owners, in Which cafe th'fe
liidVeh always become thc property of him *fho
't'he owner of the female flave, Thbugh i^fc
an, that cohabits with the wbmari flavfe, be k
;ed man, or everi a European, ftiU 'theii* Off-
ring are flaves. Sb that the bbrids bf >Vedfetk
ibng ^aves are but loofely cbntr'adfed, and
Giy broken tlirough. A mafter has the right of
aftlfing his flaVes'Ovith a whip, but has no power
er their lives, as this belongs to the magiftrate. If

THE CAPE, 177a. 115
If a flave Is too feverely treated by his mafter,
he may complain to the fifcal ; and if it then
appears that he has been ill ufed, the owner is
made to pay a confiderable fine. If a flave lifts
up his hand againft his mafter or miftrefs, or
4ny white man, he is punifoabk with death.
A flave can give no evidence j nor has he the
power of bearing, much lefs of having in his
poffeffion, any kind of fire-arms : by thefe means
the flaves, who always gi-eatly exceed the Euro
peans in number, are kept unarmed. As focoi
as a flave is enfranchifed;, he wears flioes, ftock
ings, and a hat, as a mark of his freedom.
In the months of April, May, and June, when
the foips lie in the road, the naval officers fi-e-
quently put up at audron foch commodities ss
tbey wifo to difpofe of at thb place : for this
diey pay five per cent, to the fifcal, who receives
five dollars for every cheft brought on foore, for
Wfeich five guilders Only were paid in Hoiarid.
All European mefbhandizes are fold bere at
thirty, fifiy, and One hundred peii' cent, profit.
The winter moMths are reckoned here from
the middle ©f May till the raiddle of Amgilift,
diM^ 'Which time foips m'uft not eniel- Tabte-
Bay, on account bf the ftormy morch-wefbeilbf
wind's that prevail theo,, and might drive them
on ifoore; but they are obliged to is«icbor in
I 2 Rataps

Sl6 THE CAFE, 1772.
, Ratans fplit very thin, and faftened together
with ftrings, fo as to roU up eafily, are much
ufed here for window-bUnds. They are alfo
employed for making bafl^ets, bottoms of beds^
and feats of chairs.
The thick bamboo canes, though hollow, are.
very ftrong. They are ufed for making -the
fides of ladders, and as perches to carry burden*
on ; of the more young and flender ftems are
made ferices, to fet up on the tops of waUs and
of wooden pales.
The feed-veffels of the filver-tree (protea er^. '
gentea) ferve for fuel; the reftio dichotomus (he-
Jem riet) for brooms.
Kukumakranka {gethyllis) is the name given
to the legumen or pod of a plant, that grew; aD
this time among the fand-hills near the town;
without either leaves or flowers. This pod was
of the length of one's finger, fomewhat widerj at
top than at bottom, had a pleafant fmell, and
was held in great efteem by the ladies. Th^
fmeU-of it refembled in fome meafure that of
ftrawberries, and filkd the whole room.
. On the clay-hills near the foore before thc
citadel, I obferved people digging up the earth,
which was mixed with a great many fea-foellsj
. and puting it into baflcets. This they wafhed
tiU nothing but the foells remained. In Jike
manner I faw them carefully gather the larger
. . Ihelb

"THE CAPE, 1772. ' II'7
flieUs thrown up by the fea on the beach, and
lay them up in large heaps to dry. Thefe
fliells they burn to Ume for building. For'this
purpofe they make a pile of billet and bufo-
wood, within which the foellsvare laid and burned.
In Robben Iftand a great quantity of foells are
colleded, and made into Hme for the company's
fervice, by the criminals exiled there. In' the
whole country there is no other lime to be found,
rior any mountains containing either chalk br
' Jime-ftone. Poets are faid to be born fo; but the Dutch
here, and indeed all over the Eaft-Indies, may
be faid tb be born merchants ; fbr In cafe the
father does not trade, but carries on fome han
dicraft bufinefs, his wife, daughter, or fon mufl;
and this is always done in a particular way of
their own, and often without any regular f'^^cm.
There is fcarce one regular merchant to be
found ; but every body carries on trade, and
keeps a certain fpecies of goods only, at a cer
tain time of the year, by which he endeavours
to gain the moll he can. i
Two winds in particular prevail here through
out the year, and are frequently very violent,
viz. the fouth-eaft wind in the fummer, and the
fibrth-weft In winter. When the eaft or fouth-
cift wind begins to blow, it drives the clouds
againft the' niountains, and away over ^eni,
I 3 which

.JlS THE CAPE, 1772.
which occafions a kind of drizzling .raio up in
thofe regiopsj the clouds are afterwai:ds dif-
BCrfed below the fummit of the mountam ; ai;^d
whep the clouds are carried off, the; wind may
contitiwe indeed, but theii it is always aecorn-
panied with fine dry weather.
The tovvn has but one Calviniftical church,
which is tolerably large and handfome. The
JLqtberaps hayf not hitherto been able to obtain
permlffion to ered one, though their numt??r
here is very large ; the Calviniftical church is
ferved by two ckrgymeB, who five Ir the town,
^nd are well paid.
The hofpital is ill fituated, and much out of
repair, iafomuch, that a new one wiU foortly He
ereded m a mope extenfive and convenieat plan,
Tbe patients her^ are not remarkably well taken
care of, on account of the fmall portion of me
dical fkill poffeffed by the perfon who fuperin-
tends the hofpital; though the company fpar^s
for no expence with regard to them. , I was la-
formed, tiiat the company pays 200 ducatopt^s
per annum, or fomething more than 600 guilders,
for the article of almotjjj^ only, for thg patients,
of which, perhaps, they do not get one. Every
half year, the naoiety of this fom is paid dofOi
an fx;a(d caku,lation having been prevlQuQy
made, how many thoufand of almonds may he
had ^pr t^t moflcy, according to tbe then Ce rent

T^? CAPE, 1772. 119
«eqt Jirice. So that the fum is alv^J^ya the f^me»
though the quj^titlty of alm«n<^8 Y-^V'^s with the
price j and the patients always rcc^iv? tJie f^tqc
qy^qtity, \h^t is, littie or liothing. For every
one in the hofpl^aj, that goes through % covj^rfe of
mercurial ffidion for the veriereal difeafe, thp
foyg?on receives eight doH^rs i apd the patierit
muft pay two dollars for his medicines, a? it is
not thought proper that hp foould be eyrfd of
^is c^Ifoafe gratis.
Several ftreets in the town ?re ^^orpe^ wi^fi
cap^ls filled with the water that comes from ^W
fuperimpendlng mountains. But tl^e bcingirig
of the water by means of wooden pipes^ ^pppt
the fame mwnta.I'^s dqv\fn to the grpat bri^gp
in the harbour, at the fide of thg citadel, where
the fhips unload, is of greatpf Itinportance ; as
the foips boats may conveniently lay along-fide
of \t, aqd f^ll their cafks with the puref^ water.
Thp fm^U-pox and meafles, ^re the mpft fa-
t^l difiempers here; for tl^e prevention of which
they make tb? fame provifions, as is done in
qpher places againft tb? plague. Conftqtien^ly,
as foon as a foip. h^s anchored in the roac^, a fur-
gepn is fcnt op board of it, to eif^npi^e vshe^hier
apy body in the foip^is ^t tiiat time in%(ft?4? IV
during the voyage has been ip^f^ed m^iiji either i^f
thefe difeafes. In the latter cafe, np one fp^nj} the
ijilp is fuffered to com? °f^ ^ore j but ^ 501^-
I 4 mander

12Q THE CAPE, 1772.
marider is advlfed to go to forae other place with
the veffel ; which, in the mean tirae, is furnifoed
"With whatever it may ftand in need of. When
, at any tim.e the fmall-pox is carried thither, every
one flies in hafte to the interior parts bf the coun
try. This infedious diforder, I obferved,' and
forae French foips, which they took for enemies,
were the only things that at this jundure could
infpire thefe rich farmers and burghers with fear,
and make them foift their quarters. They were
not yet become rational enough to adopt inocu
lation. In 1 7 13, the fraaU-pox was firfi brought
here by a Danifo foip, when it made a dread
fol havoc among Europeans as well as Hotten
tots, only three houfes having efcaped. The
'Hottentots died in fuch multitudes, that their
bodies lay in the fields and highways unbul
Vied. ' ^
In 1755, this diforder appeareld for the fe
cond time; andin 1767, in April, for the third
and laft time, being in like manner brought by
a Danifo foip. The laft rime the meafles pre
vaUed in thefe fparts, they were the more de-
ftrudlve, as the furgeons fent but by the gbver^-
nor, from ignorance of the difeafe, treated it
perverfely. It -is much to be lamented, that
the account given of the medical prafti"-
tioners of the Cape for fome time paft, foould
fo "exadly tally with that ^ tranfmitted to us
by

THE CAPE, 1772. 12J
'by Kaempfer, in his Amcenit exot, Fafcic. 3.
p. 534 & 535, of thc furgeons in thc Eaft-
Indies. The town is .adorned with three large fquares;
in one of thefe ftands the Proteftant church ;
it likewife has a fountain in it, which furnifoes
the inhabitants of the town with water ; in the
other is the town-haU; and the third is lately
laid out for the convenience of the country peo
ple who bring their goods to raarket, and in
this is to be built the watch.rhoufe for the fire
men. On the foore itfelf feveral batteries of differ-
jEnt fizes are ereded for the defence of the city.
The citadel is intended to proted thera as well
againft internal as foreign eneraies, but the bat
teries more particularly againft the foips of a
foreign power; and. In fad, thefe can do rio
more execution in the road than the citadel pof
fibly can do. There were now, though in rather
an indifferent ftate of repair, the great battery,
the little battery , the new battery, the bones, and
the line-guard.
In 'the beginning of July, I made a day's
excurfion to Mount Paarl, in company with Dr.
Le Sueur, who was fent for to fee a patient
that had been ill of a fever, and had now fuch
a weaknefs in his joints and ligaments, that he
could not lift his hands tb his niouth, and his
knee-

122 PAARL, 1772.
knee-pans were fo loofe, , that he had loft thc wfp
of his legs likewife. Dr. le ^ueur was a natlyc
of the Cape, but had ftudied in HoUan^i ^p4
taken his degrees at Groningen.
Ip many places the roaids were interfeded by
.large rivers, which were riOw fp fweUed bythe
heavy rains, that the water almofl came into the
carriage; the current being at the fam«e time
.very ftrong, ' , ,^
The land in thefe parts was very popr, be^ng
merely loofe fand, uncjer which lay t^e foli^
rock, confi fling of brown ferruginous clufn|^.
eonnpofed of clay, vitriolic acid;, and fl^t?. In
thf fe meagre plains, neverthelefs, phylkas, eri(M»
and pro-teas, grew ip abundance.
At Paarl the cold is felt more fenfibly in
the mornings and evenings than at the Cape,
^nd the hoar-froft frequently damages the vege
tables in the gardens. The eafterly winds are
faid to be very powerful Here, and In fummer
time to blow the grains of wheat out of the
ear. Butter is churned every day in the fommer,
and every other day, or every third day, in the
winter. They iifoally pour luke-warm water
into the churn, in order that the m^k may co
agulate the better,
Thc houfes are generally fituated at the
foot of the mountains, from whence water rups
down

paarl, J773, Ijj
<Jown to them. The want of water in other
places, and the confequent poverty of the foU,
muft be confidered as the reafon why this coun
try, fo excellent in other refpeds, cannot be very
clofely inhabited. The African foU is intrlnfi-
cally meagre ; but its fertUity, which is fo much
cried up by many, muft be afcrlbed to the ex
ceUence of the cUmate; for thofe fpots whpre
water and a litlje mould are to be found, and
which confequently are capable of cultivation,
produce a righ harveft of corn, delicious fruits,
and exceUent wines. Thc chief objed of the
farmer, when chufing a f^ot for his abode, is to
find an earthy foil in the vicinity of water.
Every peafant builds his own houfe, fome
times of brick, fometimes only of clay, lime,
and fand. Every one of them poffeffes a great
nunn.ber of horfes, oxen, cows, fheep, goats,
ducks,' and geefe, which in the day time are
dri'vep out on the hiUs, and tended by a flave,
and driven home again at fon-fet. At night all
.thefe animals fleep in the open air, each fpecies
feparately, in a place fenced in by a mud-wall.
This is faid to be very detrimental to the wool
of the foeep (the cvis laticauda). It was plea
fant in the higheft degree to fee the lambkins,
which are kept, while they are young, in the
houfe, go In the evenings, to meet their mo.»
thers on their return homp. As foon as they
heard

'124 , paarl, 1772.
heard the voice "of their dams at a great dif^
tance, the Uttle hungry creatures began to cry
out and run towards them ; but If they could
not I'ee their mothers diftindly, they would im
mediately run back again. When their darns
approached ftill nearer, their cries increafed, and
the lambs ran full ipeed to meet them, and fol
lowed thera home again. The wool of thefe
African foeep, which have large tails, is none of
the beft, and is not eraployed either in the
manufaduring of cloth or for any other im
portant purpofe, much lefs is it exported. M.
Hemming, however, had, a few years before,
a piece of cloth woven from it large enough to
make a complete fuit of clothes.
I frequentiy obferved the foin-bones of foeep
ufed, both in town and country, either for fet
ting round the trees in the ftreets, or for dividing
the parterres in the flower-gardens, where they
had a very pretty effed, the end of the gingly-
mus articulation being placed uppermoft.
Wolves were caught by an eafy and ingenious
method : a fquare or oblong houfe was ereded,
either of brick or only of clay, of the height
ef fix feet or more, wlthoyt any other covering
than a few wooden bars. In the front a low
opening is left, with a trap-door before it. In
^he houfe is laid a bait, tied to a rope that is
faftened to a peg. This peg is brought ihrbugh the

PAARL, 1772. 12§
the lower part of the back waU, and ftuck into
a piece of wood, which hangs down the wall oa
the outfide ; to the upper part of this piece of
wood Is fixed another rope, that paffes over thc
top of the houfe, and is faftened to the trap
door, which it thus keeps fufpended over the
aperture. The wolf having entered the houfe,
pulls the bait, and at the fame time puUs out
the peg from the piece of wood, when the trap
door falls down, and makes the wolf pri-
foner. The ftik of building In the country, among,
peopk In good circuraftances, is nearly fimilaj-
to that in town, viz. firft there is a hall at thc
entrance of the houfe, and before this is a long
gallery ; on each fide of the haU is a room ; and
on one fide of the gallery is the kitchen, and on
the other a bed-chamber. People of inferior
circuraftances had a gallery, with a chamber op
each fide of it, and the kitchen behind. The
poorer fort had huts of clay, with doors and
windows alraoft pervious to the weather.
The water that runs down the mountains to
the farms that Ue below them is frequently con
duded^ by art to different places, fuch as to arti
ficial fountains, or to gardens, for the purpofe
of watering them in time of drought, or to fifo-
ponds,- to fupply them v?ith water. Such

126 PAARL, 1772.
Such Waters as accuraulated ifl the plains be
low the raountains, and formed rivukts, whith
at times were fb deep in certain places, as tb
make ferries or boats neceffary for paffmg themj
the farmers rendered ufeful to themfelves, by
damming them up, in order tb make them
everflbw thelr.vineyard's planted on their banksj
when the water gently running off from themi
manured the foil, awd rendered it fertile.
The vineyards near Paarl flourifoed amaz*
ingly, and vines were feen here fifty years
bid. A virie Was faid to bear fo early as the
fecond year after It was planted, but tb yield a
full vintage In the third. All tlie VinCs here Were
kept low, in order to make them produce large
cluflers. In this place a church was ereded and prb-
vided with a Caivinift minifter and a clerks
Divine fervice, hbWever, is not performed every
Sunday; but when the mlnifljer is gone on a
journey, fick, or otherwife hind«-ed, the cferfe
reads to the congregation fome portion of the
Bibk. The farmers, or colonifts, all through th«
country arc, as weU as the inhabhants of the
city, all burghers, and are confequently obliged
to be always in readinefsj in cafe of a war, to
defend their country. For this purpofe they are
divided

PAARL, 1772. 127
divided intb companies, and certain perfons'
ambhg them appointed their officers.
On die fudden approach of danger from any
chfemy, the whok body of the inhabitants may
be fummoned by thfe firing of guns and hoifting
of flags. For this purpofe cannons are plalited
at proper intervals, and at the fide of each ftirids
a flag-ftaff, to give finals in cafe of the ap
proach of ah enemy, or of any great fleet be
longing to a foreign pbwer. In fuch cafe, feven
guns are fired from the Lion's Head. The
cannon on the banks of Zour Rivier is next dif
charged. Which is repeated by another placed
at a greater diftance, then by a third, and fo
ori; the flag being always hoifled before the
'firing of the gun^ by which means the Alarm is
foon given throughout the whole country.
As an antidote agaihft the bite of ferpents,
the blood of the turtle was much cried up.
Which on account of this extrabrdinai-y virtue,
the inhabitants dry in the form bf -fmall fcales
br membranes, and carry abbut them Wben
they travel in this cotintry, 'Whith fwarms with
this moft noxious vermin. Whenever any one
is Wounded by a ferpent, he takes a couple bf
pinches of the dried blbbd internally and ap.'
plies a Utrie of it to the wound.
Surgeons, apothecaries-, aiid others, when they^
cannot find in this country the ufual and genuine
medicinal

ia8 PAARL, 1772.-
medicinal plants, look for others that fomewhat
referable thera, either in their flowers, leavps,
fmeU, or general habit, and then give them
the fame names. The phyfician, who hears
tills quid pro quo mentioned, muft not let it puz-
de or miflead him.
The leaves of the Calla JEthiopica, a plant
which grew even in the ditches about the gar
dens near the Cape,, were faid to ferve for food.
f9r the {yzer-varken) or porcupines.
The root of the arScpus echinatus, which grew
both near the Cape and in other places, was
of a foft texture, and contained a very white
and pure gum, which was ufed in the form of
a decodion, as an exceUent purifier of the
blood, and likewife as a remedy in the go-,
norrhoea. ,.The root of the brypnia Africana ferved. the
country people for an emetic ; infufed in wine
or brandy it proves an excellent purge, efpe
cially if a piece of bread be eaten after it. , ,
The geranium cucullatum, a fragrant .plant,
was ufed as an emollient, inclofed in fmaU,
bags. ¦Of the leaves of the borbonia cordata the ;
country people made tea. ,
The mbntinia acris, though it is of a very,
acrid nature, AVas faid to be eaten by the
Iheep.
The^

PAARL, tfjii t49
T h^e Hottentots eat the fruit of the brabeiutti
fiellatum, a large forub that grows near brooks
and rivuktSj CaUed wilde caftanien (wild chef-
tiuts), and fometimes ufed by the country peo
ple inftead of coffee : the outfide rind being
taken off, the fruit is fteeped in water to deprive
k of its bitternefs i it is then boUed, roafted^ and
ground like coftee.
The gout and dropfy were common difeafes
in this coilntryj proceeding from the great quan*
tity of wine that was drank, and the very vaiy*
ing and cold winds.
The fields were by no means fo thickly Covered
with grafs here as they are in Europe, where the
grafs-tUrf, with its great variety of flowers, forms
the moft beautiful carpet j but the grafs grew
very thin, foewing the bare land between the
blades, fo that one could not with any pleafure
lie down on it to reft one's felf.
The barley, after it had attained to a Con
fiderable height, was mowed once or oftener,
and given to the horfes as fodder. It was faid,,
that it might be Cut in the month of Auguft,
when in the ear. I frequently faw bundles of
it brought to town in this ftate to market.
The barley in this country is cultivated chiefly
for the ufe of hbrfes j a few bundles of it being
eut every evemng, after the horfes are come in
VOL. r. K from

IJO PAARL, I'j'ji-
from grafs, and laid in the ftable, or elfe out in
the yard, where thefe ariimsls are tied up, for
their night-provender.
Beer is never brewed in the country, where
the people, when thlrfty, drink water, tea, cof
fee, or wine ; but a brewery has been eftablifoed
near Cape Town. The Cape beer, however. Is
never remarkably good, but generates wind in
the ftomach, and foon turns four. This Is the
reafon why they are obliged to import their beer
from Europe ; the Dutch, Danifo, and Eng
lifo beer, which they fometimes drink in fmaU
quantities at their meals, being held in particu
lar efteem.
The vineyards muft be dug every year, and
the ground turned, yet without difturbing thc
vines. In manuring them, the old earth is dug
away from around the vines, and fo that a hole
is left in which the manure is laid. If a vine
dies, a branch of an adjoining vine is bent down
into the hole, where it foon ftrikes root, and Is
afterwards cut off at the top.
A widow at the Paarl had three Hottentots
in her fervice ; they fpoke with much delicacy
and foftnefs, clacking lightly and rapidly with
their, tongues both before and while they pro
nounced their words. Their complexion was
brown, but by no means inclining to black, be ing

THE CAPE, 1772; 131
ing more like that of a fun-burnt European.
The apparent brownnefs of their complexions,
in fad, proceeded more from the great quantity
of ftinking greafe With which they befmeared
themfelves than from nature. The girls were
fond of frhoking tobacco, which they did with a
pipe fo foort, that the bowl of it came clofe to
their lips. Their hair is Of a fingular nature,
being quite black, and twlfted Up together like
foort wool, fo as to referable the nap upon
frieze, the interftices between each lock being
quite barfe;
On my return to the Cape; I faw, tbwards
the end of June, a body of Hottentots, men,
women, and childreri^ to the number of nine
and fifty, brought up about one hundred and
fifty miles from the interior part of the coun
try, where they had committed various ads of
violence againft the colonifts. They had been
taken by a Hbttentot captairr, of the name of
Kees, in the cleft of a rriouritain, whete they
had concealed and fortified, themfelves againft
a party of peafants and foldlei-s ordered out
againft them, and had for a lorig time defended
themfelves, by rolling large ftones down upon
their enemies. In two viUages they had car
ried off the cattle, killed the inhabitants, plun
dered the houfes, and taken poffeffion bf feveral
fire-arms. They did not deny their crimes^
K 2 but

132 THE CAPE, 1772.
but afferted that they aded fo in their own de
fence, the Europeans making every year frefo
encroachments upon their lands and poffeffions,,
and forcing them contintiany farther up into
the country, whence they were driven back
again by the other Hottentots, or elfe killed.
Thefe Hottentots were Bojhiefmen, of a dark
brown complexion,' fome of whom were naked,
wearing only a band round their waifts, which
covered the pudenda before. Others wore, hang
ing loofe over their fooulders, a foeep's fkio, the
ends of which fcarcely met before, the upper
part going, like a calafo, over the head. The
women bad their little ones hanging behind on
their fooulders ; and girls eleven or twelve years
of age had already children. The women were
adorned with ear-rings, and broad rings of me
tal round their wrifts. Their mouths and cheek
bones were very prominent, fo that they bore the
ftrongeft refemblance imaginable to apes. After
thefe Hottentots had been confined for fome
time at the Cape, they loft their colour, and be
came almoft white.
On the 2%tb of June, the Javanefe here cele
brated their new-year. For this purpofe they
had decorated an apartment in a houfe with
carpets, that covered the clellrig, walls, and flwr.
At fome diftance from the fartheft waU an altar was.

THE CAPE, 1772. 133
was railed, from the middle of which a pillar
rofe lip to the cieling, covered with narrow flips
of gilt paper and filk alternately : from above,
downwards, ran a kind of lace between the pro
jeding edges. At the bafe of this pillar were
placed bottles with nofegays ftuck In them.
Before' the altar lay a cufolon, and on this a large
book. The women, who were aU ftanding or
fitting near the door were neatly dreffed, and
the men wore night-gowns of filk or cotton.
Frankincenfe was burned. The men fat crofs-
legged on the floor, difperfed all over the room.
Several yellow wax candles were lighted up.
Many of the affembly had fans, which they
found very ufeful for cooling themfelves in the
great heat neceffarily produced by the affem-
blage of a great number of people in a fmall
Ipace. Two priefts were diftinguifoed by a
fmaU conical cap from the reft, who wore
handkerchiefs tied round their heads in the form
of a turban. About eight in the evening the
fervice commenced, when they began to fing,
loud and foft alternately, fometimes the priefts
alone, at other times the whole congregation.
After this a prieft read out of the great book
that lay on the cufolon before the altar, the con-.
gregation at times reading aloud after him. I
obferved them reading after the Oriental man
ner, from right to left, and imagined it to be
K 3 the

'J34 THE .CAPE, 1772*
the Alcoran that they were readiflg, the Java
nefe being moftly Mahometans. Between the
finging and reading, coffee was ferved up Iri
cups, and the principal mari of the congregation
at intervals accompanied their finging on the
violin. I underftood afterwards, that this wa?
a prince from Java, who had oppofed the in-
terefts of the Dutch Eaft-India Company, and
for that reafon had been brought from his native
country to the Cape, where he lives at the com.f
pany's expencp.
On the 30/^5; of June I vifited Pareidife,, and|
pther farms belonging to the company, anc}
fituated below Table. Mountain,. Rondebofch isa
villa belonging to the governor. On this eaftr
ern fide, afopg Table Moifntain, the fouth-eajj
wind does not b.lovy fo hard as at the Cape, for
which reafon alfo both trees and forubs gro^y
here. Among other trees, the pine (pinifsfyheff
iris) was confpicuous by its elegant crown.
Wild vines {wilde druyven, vitis vitiginea) made
a diftinguifoed figure at this time with their
red berries, which refembled cherries, and were
eatable. In the beginning of July, I fet out on an ex
curfion on foot, for a few days, to Conftantia and
the neighbouring farms. In fome places rivu
lets ran acrofs the road berween the vaUies down
J. . .. ¦ ' •
from

THE CAPB, 1772. 13^
from the mountains, and at this time they were
difficult to pafs.
Ferruginous ftones {eifer klippen), or ftones
containing iron, were found here, as weU as nearer
to the Cape.
I obferved the clouds to be driven in contrary
diredions, the lower clouds coming from the
fouth-eaft, and the upper being carried towards
the fame quarter.
The domeftic animals, which otherwife are
kept in the open air throughout the whole coun
try, were here foeltered under a foed, that was
open in the front,
On my return to town, I had the opportunity
of feeing a Chinefe burial. In their burying-
ground at a foort diftance fiom the city, fmall
ratans are ftuck up, .faftened together with cot
ton-thread, fo as to form an arch or a vaulted
roof over the tomb.
In a large hog that was killed, , were found
feveral round worms {lumbrici), which was faid
to be a common cafe here with thefe animals.
July thd 2ift, I took a walk to Paarl and
Stellenbofch, From thp Cape the horizon, on tfie land
fide, appears bounded by high mountains, that
ftretch acrofs the whole country. The plain be
tween the Cape and thefe mountains, which is
pnp day's journey long. Is fqr the moft part an
IC 4 uncultivated

13$ The cape, 1772,
uncultivated trad of fand, and deftitute of wa,
ter, which for the moft part is no where to be
met with but near the fmalfer fcattered hiUs,
which iie abOut as it were infulated, and with
out apy very eyidpnt conpexion with each other,
A traveller who has not been provident enough
to bring water with him, has no other refonrce
for affoaging %k thirft in this burning heat|
^han ftridly to examine, whether any black
fhepherds art to be found attending their maf-
ifer's flocks in the neighbourhood, who may
either have water themfelves, or may be able to
inform him where to find it, In the winter
feafon, however, on account of the frequent
rains, large ^rads of this plain He unde|f
water. The name of kapock- bird was given to a very
fmall bird, that forms its neft (Which Is as euri
pus as it is beautiful, and is of the thlcknefs ofa
coarfe worfted ftocking) from ^e down (pappus.
eriocephali) pf the wild rofemary-tree (wilde
ro/maryn), In the months of April and May the feed is
put ipto the ground; but in Jupe and July the
earth, which often has lain fallow for feveral,
fometimes ten, twelve, and fifteen years, is
ploughed up. The larger bufoes are prevloufly
pulled up by the roots, and the fmaUer ones
left for the~|>loughi all the bufoes are then
«olle^e4

THE CAPE, 177a. 1^7
colleded, and burnt-on the field, which are richly
manured by the afoes. The fpots on which thc
fombuftion has been performed, always pror
duces a thicker and more luxuriant grafs than
ufual ; fo that fuch places are eafily diftinguifo-
able in a meadow by the high tufts of grafs. The
wheat here was faid to yield, in genpral, at thc
fate of eight and ten, but frequendy fifteen,
twenty, and twenty-five to one ; whereas In many
Other places again, the produce is ftiU more abunr
dant. I was even told, that at one farm, fourr
teen bufoejs of feed had produced about fifty,
five quarters of grain,
The ant-eater, or aardvarken {myrmecophaga)^
digs large holes in the earth, in which in thc
day time he lies fecure from his enemies. The
country was full of fuch holes, This anima^
was faid to be fo ftrong, that feveral oxen to
gether wovtld not be able to drag \t ou? of its re
treat. It digs very expeditioufly. The flefo of
it is eaten, and efpecially the hams, when hyng
up and dried. It liyes on feveral forts of ants,
efpecially the large red ones, ^Which build their
hillocks of clay, and are very common, increaf-,.
ing every year.
The daughters of the colonifts are fometinn^,
with chUd by their fathers' black flaves. In this
cafe, in confideration of a round fom of mpney,^
9 hufoand is generally pravided for the girl, but thc

138 THE CAPEj 1774."
the flave is fent away. from that part ef thp
country. HofpitaUty Is carried to a great length among
the farmers throughout all this country, info
much that a traveller may, without being at any
expence either for board or lodging, pafs a
longer or fliorter time with thefe people, who
with the greateft cordiality receive and entertain
Ufangers, On the contrary, a ftranger finds it
very dear living in town, where he is obliged to
pay at leaft a dollar, if not a dollar and a half
per day, for his board and lodging.
The farraers in general make four regular
meals a day, viz. breakfaft at feven, dinner at
eleven, their afternoon's luncheon at four, and
fppper at eight.
A foldier here is not at liberty to marry,
left, as in this cafe he muft live with his wife
put of the citadel, he foould run in debt in thp
fown, and in confequence of this, incur the ufual
punifomept, whfch is tranfportation to Batavia.
Neverthelefs, it would be mycb better that a folr
dier or corporal foould be at liberty to marry,
and, receiving hjs pay, do his duty, and on thofp
days when he is exempted from 4" ty, earn his
livelihood by teaching, or by fome trade ; and,
although many, as daily experience evinces, for
want of this regulationj faU into bad courfes,
and ruin themfelves by cpnnp?iiions with black
woraen j

^HE CAPE, 17721 I3f
women ; not to mention, that a married foldier,
JP cafe of a war fupervening, always fights fop
his country, his wife and children, with greater
courage and fpirit than another ; yet, in defiance
pf reafon and pomraon fenfe, aU fuch raen arc
obliged po quit the fervice and becorae free citi
zens. This freedom, hpweyer, they do not ob
tain but on condition of entering again into the
company's fervice, if neceffity foould require,
and this in the fame capacity as that ip which
they left It.
Though the town Is entirely under the com-
pariy's jurifdidion, and confequendy is fubjed to
the governor and fifcal; yet, in what concerns
the management of its particular affairs, it has
its own mayor and aldermen, with pther necef.
fary officers.
.' The burghers, both in the town and through
put the whole count, y, are enrolled as militiaT
men for the defpnce pf the colony, being divided
into fevpral companies of foot and horfe, and
commanded by o|ficers from among thfir own
body. They meet every year to do their exer
cife, and in tlie towii they go upon the munici-,
pal guard, &c.
The dead are buried withopt either clergyr
man, prayers, or the ceremony of throwing earth
on the body,
Thc

140 THE CAPE, 1772.
The ceremonies of marriage and baptifm miiK"
always be performed in the church ; private bap'-
tifin, in cafe of neceffity, not being fuffered.
Slaves are very feldom enfranchifed : the free
blacks are not permitted to go upon the munici
pal guard ; but in time of war they are obliged
to throw up. batteries with their fpades, which
»re tbeir weapons. They are commanded, how
ever, by one erf their own body. The flaves,
whom each mafter of a family muft drive be
fore him out of his houfe himfelf when required,
againft the enemy, are alfo formed into com
panies. The burghers, as well as the fervants
of the company, are then ftationed each at his
|)oft. All tiie civil officers are ftationed within
the caftk, ftnd others at the batteries in different
places. In the month of Aitgt0 the winter drew near to
its end, and the fields began to be decorated with
llowers; it therefore now became neceffary for
me to think Of fuch preparations as would be
ufeful and requifite for me in my approaching
long journey into the interior part of the coun
try, a journey, relative to which a promife had
been given me, that I foould make \t, in a great
meafure, at the company's expence.
I therefore provided myfelf with necefllary
clothes, as well as with boxes and bags, for col-
leding

THI CAPE, 1772. t4t
leding roots and feeds, with boxes ind pins for
infeds, a keg of arrack for preferving ferpents
and amphibious animals, cotton and bojtes for
fluffing and keeping birds In, cartridge-paper
for the drying of plants, tea and bifcuits for my
own ufe, and tobacco to diftrlbute among the
Hottentots, together with fire arms, and a large
quantity of powder, ball, and foot of various
kinds. Shoes for the fpace of four months were
no inconfiderable article in this account, as the
leather prepared in the Indies, is by no means
ftrong; befides, that it is quite cut to pieces, or
foon worn out, by the foarp ftones that ocpur
every where in the mountains.
My equipage confifted of a faddle-horfe, a
cart covered with faU-cloth, like an ammuni
tion-waggon, and three yoke of oxen, by which
it was to be drawn through the whok of the
journey. My travelling companions were Auce,
the gardener, who had before made eighteen
journies of different lengths into the country,
and was now to be my fure and faithful guide j
M. Immelmajt, a youth, the fon of a lieute
nant in the army, together with Leonhardi, a
ferjeant, who undertook this tedious joisrney for
the fake of foooting the larger animals and birds ;
and laftly, two domefticated Hottentots, one of
whom was to drive, and the other to lead our
oxen. Every
4

r44 the cape, 1772.
Every one that travels in this country, perd
forms his journey pretty nearly in the following
Way. A large waggon, worth from one hun
dred and twenty to two hundred dollars, and
covered with a large tilt of fail-cloth, is corio-
monly drawn by five or fix yoke of oxerij
which are driven by a man with a Idng whip^
but led through the rivulets and by the farms.
The horfes are but weak in this part of the
world, and find no where in Afripa either paf-
ture or water; confequently they cannot be ufed.
for long journies. Nor ai'e horfes employed for"
Carrying any wares on their backs up to towri
from the farms that lie near it, but there are
fome few wealthy perfons that now and then
put two or three pair of them into a wag
gon for foort journies. Still, however, they arc
made ufe of aU over the country for riding on<
When farmers, that live far down in the coun
try, go up to the Cape, they generaUy take five
or fix fpare oxen with them, for the purpofe of
changing cattle in a journey which lafts fevera'
weeks. The whip is an inftrument which might
feem to command refped riot only from the
oxen, for whofe fervice it is principally deftined^
but from every one elfe*
Thus equipped, I fet out with my company
from the Cape on the ytb of September for Jan'
Befis Kraal, a fmall grazing farm belonging" to
the

A JOURNEY INTO CAFFRARIA, I772. 145
the company, and fituated by the fea-fide, wherc
we arrived at eleven o'clock.
AU over the fandy fields the proted hypophylla
was feen creeping and procumbent, with its
leaves ftanding up ered on each fide of ie.
Near Eland's Fontain, (or EUc's Fountain) a
plant of this fpecies was feen ftanding upriglit
like a bufo, much refembling the formetj but
with broader leaves.
We proceeded on our journey tUl twelve
p'clock, when we came to another farm belong
ing to the company, called Riet Valley: after
wards to Mostert's Farm, and laftly, paffing
by Brack Fontain we came to Groene Kloof (the
Green Valley), a confiderable grazing farm be
longing to the company, at the diftance of eight
hours journey from the Cape. In this pleafant
place we remained a whole week, as weU be
caufe we found a great deal to colled here, as
becaufe that, in confequence of the refradion of
the fon-beams frora the burning fand, I was un
fortunately attacked with a very vioknt inflam
mation in my eyes; which I did not eafily get
rid of.
The country has indeed been much inhabited
and cultivated by the European colonifts, but
as yet no mik-ftones have been fet up, nor
have the farms and rivers every where received
fuitabk names. The farms are frequently calkd after

t44 A jOURNiY INTd CAFfRAftiA, 1774.
after their owners, and the diftances betweea
places are meafured by the time required to
travel over them in a waggon drawn by o^eii>
which anfwers pretty exadly to a fea-kagUe per
hour. All this occafions travellers a great deal
of trouble, and is the caufe that I am obliged to
call the places, which I paffed in my travels, by
the Dutch names, by which they are known on
the fpot.
The fandy and low plaiHs, whkh we traverfed,
abounded at this time In bulbous plants, befides
others which were now fprung up in confe
quence of the heavy rains that had fallen dur*
ing the winter, and whieh with their infinitely
iraried flowers decorated thefe otherwife naked
heaths. The roots {bulbi) of the iris eduUs, when
boUed and ferved up at table, tafted much lik«
potatoes. The African flowers vary gready as to colour,
efpeciaUy on the upper part, and are more con
ftant on the under part.
Flamingoes (pbanicoptertis ruber) were feen
in abundance, wading every where in the
ponds and puddles, in which were found alfo
ducks and fnlpes {fcolopax capenfis )» In the
plains were heard among the bufoes the kor-
rhaan {otis). The baantje (a fmall bird), and
deer of various kinds were feen running about, fuch

A JOURNEY INTO CAFfRaRIA, I772. T45
foch as harte-beefts {capra dorcas), fteen-boks
(capra grimmia), divers (capra  )', as well
as the ftately oflrich, diftinguifoed by its black
feathers from Its grey females.
A clay, iriiprcgnated with fulphur, was foovtrn
me, which Is to be found near a fbuntain hard
by Paard Mountain.
The feed-veffels of a fpecies of Etiphorbiai
^ulverlaedj were ufed for poifoning wolves.
Here I faw, for the firft time^ the oleum Ricinii
or caftor oil; The feeds were faid to be boiled
in water, and the oil is fldmraed off as it rifesi
Which is taken, in as large a dofe as that of a
tea-cup folly for a gentle purge; The leaves of
the forub dried, and applied round the head^
were affirmed to be ferviceable in the head-
ach. On the i^b, we paffed Or ante Fontein, or
Orange -Fmntain, and Uyle Kraal, or the Owl'i
Kraal; in oiir way to ThS Fontein, oi* Tea Foun-
iaik, a journey of fix hours; and afterwards paf
fing by Elk's Fot^tain (Eland's Fontein); got
to Sdlddhnii Bdy the riext day.
The farmers oh this fide of the Cape have
neither vineyards nor much arable land, but in
ftead of thefe plenty of cattie. Bytter is made
here every day, iri a churn like a pump ; and
thc butter-mitki excellent as it is. Is thrown out
to the calves and dogs. Indeed, they fcarcely
VOL. I; L allow

146 A JOURNEY INTO CAFFRARIA, I772!»
allow their milk to cream beforehand. As to
houfehold furniture, they were in great want of it.
We left our faddk-horfes at a farmer's houfe;
after which we croffed the harbour in a veffel
to the Company's Poft, wbere we ftaid feveral
days. Here was plenty of game, confifting of ante
lopes, ducks, and other animals.
The expreffed juice of the fow-thiftk (fvn-
chus oleraceus) was ufed for cleanfing and heal
ing ulcers.
The black juice of the cuttle-fifo (fepia)
mixed up with, vinegar, was ufed for making
inkj. This animal has real eyes, confifting of
a cornea, choroidea, and a cryftalline lens, with
all the humours ufuaUy found in the eye.
Among the fervants I found Elisaeus
Hyphoff, who was in the capacity of a cook
here, and was the fon of M. Hyphoff, diredor
of the bank in Stockholm.
The albuca niajor grew in this neighbourhood
tall, ftralght, and elegant. Its fucculent ftalk,
which is rather mucilaginous, is chewed by the
Hottentots and other travellers, by way of
quenching their thirft.
There were a great many fand-banks in the
harbour, which were feen at low water.
Grafs grew on the Iflands in abundance; but
here were neither foeep nor oxen in them. While

A jOtTRNEY INTO CAFFRARIA, I772. I47
WhUe I was botanizing, I found a dead tiger
hear the foore; . He had probably been eating
fome poifonous plants, and afterwards went in
queft of water, before he fell down.
On the iflands vvithout and round about Sal
dahna Bay, feals {phoca) were caught In abund
ance, from the blubber of which a good and ufe-i
ful oil was prepared. The fkins ofthe fraaller fort
of thefe animals ai'e ufed only for foboting-bags
and tobacco-pbuchesj The large feals, I was
told, would weigh fourteen or fifteen hundred
weight. With refped to thefe creatures, a dif
agreeable accident had happened here lately : a
foldier was fent out to fooot them, and having
Wounded one of them, which lay as though it
were dead, he went to open a vein in order to
draw off its blood, as the oil is fuppofed to be
the better for this operation. When on a fudden
the feal caught hold of his hand, which the fol
dier puUing back in hafte, his thumb was bitten
of^ and the tendbn drawn out to a great length.
From Saldahna Bay we returned to The Fon
tein, and at a farm there had an opportunity of
feeing with what dexterity the peafants perform
the caftration of their oxen, fifty of which, two
years old, and one at three years, went through
this operation in one evening. The cord of ^
whip was faftened round the horns, and a rope
round one of the hind-legs. The animal being "
L 2 by

148 A JOtTRNEY INrb'CAFFKARlA, 1771.
by chis means thrown down on one fide, , its
four- legs were tied together. They then cue
vtith a ktiife on the exterior fide through all- the'
integuments quite to the tefticle ; after this they.
laid' hold' of the tefticle and fcr-aped' the funicu
lus, continually twifting it at the fame time, tiU\
the tefticle came away.
Great complaints were made of the feed-
veffels of the rumex fpinajm {dubeJties), which;
^ew very common here, as the foarp prickles:
of them cut the feet of the flaves- and others,
v?ho walked bare-footed.
¦ : In' wet years, the pharnaceunr mollugo. {mug-
gfkruyd) grows- cbpiouffy here,, and is faid to
make the c^de, that feed on it, very faf. ./
Difficult' as iris to come within reach of ity,
we at laft foot a korhaan; a; bird which in its
flight cries kok-karri, kok-carri.
The fecrietary bird (fal-cofecretarius), made its
appearance frequiently, witii its.be^tifol headb
and( long legs; it runs very faft,, and: lives on.
the ferpents Ic catches-, I' was ttold, that its
young are not reared without difficulty,, as they .
are very apt to break their legs. Yet I faw af.
Conftantia an old bird that was tame. They
lay two or three eggs, anti are faid tobuiid theip
nefts with twigs upon bufoes. They are ahnoffe'.
always found foUtary, and in no greac abund
ance.
The

A JOURNEY I>ITO CAFFRARIA, 1772. 149-
The black berries of a bufli called Kraije-
bofch, or crow-bufo, were greedily devoured by
Ihc crows at the Cipe.
On the 2'^tb, we left The Fontein, and fer
ried over Berg-Rivitr {M.o\!ir\t?kV\ River.)
The root of Anife {avtys wortel) was eaten
here roafted, and tafted well ; it is either roafted
in the embers, or boiled in milk, or elfe ftewed
with meat. The farmers fometimes make their
flaves dig up a large quantity of them, which
they fell In town.
The root of the gatagay is likewife roafted in
the embers and eaten, but has a bad and dif
agreeable tafte.
Wherever we went, we obferved a black-beetle
{tricMus laticollis) occupied- the whole day
throughout in rolling large balls of dung with
jts hind-feet, and conftantiy going backwards.
With its fore-feet it digs large holes In the
fand, and alfo throws the fand on one fide with
its fcuteUum. Ic probably lays its eggs In thefe
baUs, which it afterwards buries in the fand.
More than once we obferved two of the infeds
here fpoken of affifting each othpr in rolling
away one of thefe baUs.
The oats brought hither from Europe are
now looked upon as the worft of weeds in this
country, as the grains are pafily foaken out of
^hp ears by the vioknce of the winds, that pre-
L 3 vail

J5© A JOURNEY INTO CAFFRARIA, 177?.
vail here, and fowing themfelves, choak up all
thp other corn. It is tp, no purppfe to lay a piecp
of land fo fpoUed fallow for feveral years, for
when the field comes to be ploughed up, the
cats, having lain unhurt in the ground, fooot up
afrefo. They gave the name of pightingale {nachti-
gall) to a bird, which In its notes and gefiure?
imitated feveral other birds.
The pppblazers (pneumora) a kind of grafs
hopper, were caught in the pvening. After:
fon-fet thpy begin to make a fingular noife, by
rubbing their barbed hind-legs againft theip
empty and tranfparent ftomach. It was fuppofed
that this fouiid was heard at a great diftance.
As I perceived that thefe, like many other noc
turnal infeds, were fond pf light, I ordered a
large fire to be made In the field, near which
they were caught, while they were marching up
to ir. Their whok body is, as it were, a blad
der, and fo empty, that thefe creatures cannot
be carried abopt ftuck through with a pin, likp
pther infeds.
Nefts of finches {loxia) made of the ftalks of
grafs, curioufly interwoven, hung on the branches
pf trees over ponds, with a long and narrow
neck, by which the bird ufed m enter. This
neck prevented the birds of prey from getting a^
the young ones, and the water, over which th^p
neft

A JOURNEY INTO CAFFRARIA, I772. 151
neft hung on low forubs and buflies, kept off
foxes and other beafts of prey.
The cattle were liable to various grievous dlf-
tempers, of which they foraetimes alfo died.
The bloody ficknefs {blaar or hloodziekte) is
a difeafe of the cattle, in whioh the veins all over
the body are extreraely turgid. Letting of blood
and violent exercife were faid to be ferviceable
in this diftemper. The flefo of fuch beafts as
die of ir, is not eatable.
The fpongy ficknefs (fponziekte) begins in this
manner ; firft a foot fwells, and then by degrees
the whole body. This diforder fometimes lafts
three days, but at other times proves fatal in as
many hours. If the foot is taken off immedi
ately, the creature's life may be faved. The
flefo of fuch an animal likewife is not eatable.
This diftemper, in my opinion, can proceed
from no other caufe than the bite of forae ferpent,
a kind of reptile, which, in this warm quarter of
the globe, is but too common.
The lame diftemper {laamziekte) Is, when the
cattle are unable to ftand. It coraes on gradu
aUy, and is flow in its progrefs. After the death
of the animal the bones of Its legs are found to
be quite empty, and without marrow; inftead
pf which they are filled with water.
The horned cattle, as well as horfes, are af-
fiided with the ftranguary, pr a retention of their
L 4 wine.

152' A JOUIVNEY INTO CAFFRARIA, 1772.
urine, after feeding on the euphorbia geniftoides,^
which contains a milk that does no injury to the
,ftomach and bowels, but corrodes the bladder,
and efpecially obftruds the urinary paffages^
if the penis is preffed, this vifcid matter is
fqueezed out. The peafants therefore either prefs
it our, or with a ftraw pufo it back again. When
the cattie are fupplied with good and frefo wa
ter, this difeafe cannot get the upper hand ; but
in fummer, when the water Is thick and impure,
fo that it cannot dilute the peccant matter, the
cattle die.
On the right fide of Groote Berg-rivier (or
great Mountain-river) was feen Ribeck- caftle,
which is a high and large folltary mountain ; and
to the left. Picket-berg. We paffed by the Ho-
tiing-bergen, and in the evening arrived at a farm
belonging to one Griling,
On the 2()th we croffed the river called Feut;
and twenty river, and came to the farm of Arn
hem, from thence to little Mountain-river, and
farther through Roode zands-kkaf (Red fand val
ley) to TVaferftand or Roode Zand. The cleft,
through which we paffed from the fandy plain,
that lies low towards the Cape, but graduaUy
rifes tUl it comes to Roode Zand, is one of the
few chafms left by the long ridge of mountains,
through which it is poffible fora waggon to pafs,
though, perhaps, not entirely \vithoiit danger.
9 In

A JOURNEY INTO CAFFRARIA, I772. I53
In fome places it was fo narrow, that two wag
gons could not pafs each other. At fuch narrow
paffes as this. It is ufual for the drivers to give
feveral terrible loud fmacks with their long whips,
which are heard at the diftance of feveral miles,
fo that the waggon that arrives fiifl raay get
through unimpeded, before another enters it.
As foon as we had paffed the mountains as
far as to Roode zand, the country appeared much
higher than the fide from which we came. At
one end this country is bounded by high moun
tains, called Winter-hoek (or Winter-corner) be?
caufe their tops, almoft the whole year through
put, are covered wifh fnow ; at the other end it
js open, with a range of mountains projeding
into it, and forming an angle, called Moficrtjhoek,
and grows wider and wider the nearer ic ap
proaches to the fouth,
We took up our lodging with a man of the
name of De "Vett, a defcendant of one of the
French families, which came with the firft co
lonifts that fettled In this part cf Africa, to lay
out vineyards, and plant fruit-trees.
Tintirinties is a name given to a fpecies of
Ornithagalum, with a white flovwer, from the
found it produced, when two ftalks of it were
rubbed againft each other.
In order to give our cattle time to reft a litde,
and, in fome npaforp, recover their loft fkfo, we

154 A JOURNEY INTO CAFFRARIA, 1772.
we paffed almoft a fortnight at this agreeable
place, during which time we had the opportp-
nity of drying the plants and feeds we had already
colleded, and of vifiting all the hUls and moun
tains in the environs,
On the listh, therefore, we fet out pn an ex
curfion acrofs the catarad and the mountains, ^
a fadler's, named Swieger, and the next day
went on to a man of the name of Olivier, with
whom we left our horfes, and afcepded thp
mountain on foot.
On the ift of OSfober, we made an excurfion
over Mount Witfen-, on the other fide of which
was a trad of land, or rather a cleft in the
mountain, narrower than Roode zand, but about
four times higher. From this eminence, Table
mountain, near the Cape, was feen : and by
reafon of the coldnefs of this place, and the back;- '
wardnefs of thp funnmer, the plants flowered
here at leaft one month later, than in other parts .
of the country. Snow frequentiy falls here to
the height of three feet, which lies feveral days,
but higher up on the mountain, a ftill longer
time. Behind this valley, mountains were /feen,
and behind thefe, ftill higher ridges pf other
mountains j on the other fide of which, the Bokkt-
velden or Goat-fields, were faid to be fitu
ated, In this narrow, jofty, and cold trad of
lapd, there vypre feveral grazing farms, but no
corn

A JOURNEY INTO CAFfRARIA, 1773, 155
porn was cultivated there, as this latter commo
dity could not be tranfported from thence over
the mountains. It, took us up a fuU hour to pafs
fhe mountain on horfeback.
Being returned to Roode-zand, the much ce
lebrated Snake-itone {Slange-fteen) was fobwn
to me, which few of the farmers here could af
ford to purchafe, it being fold at a high price,
and held in great efteem. It is imported from
the Indies, efpeciaUy from Malabar, and cofts
feveral, frequentiy lo or 12, rixdoUars. It is
round and convex op one fide, of a black colour,
yclth a pale afo-grey fpeck in the middle, and
tubulated, wjth very rainute pores. When thrown
into water, it caufes bubbles to rife, vvhich Is a
proof of its being genuine, as is alfo, that if put
into the raouth, it adheres to the palate. When
it is applied to any part that has been bitten by a
ferpent, it fticks faft to the wound, and extrads
the poifon ; as foon as it Is faturated, ic falls off of
itfelf. If it be then put Into railk, it is fuppofed
%o be purified from the pojfon it had abforbed,
and the milk is faid to be turned blue by jt. Fre
quently, however, the wound is fcarified with a
razor, previous to the application of the ftone.
I was inforraed that the Hottentots, when bit
ten by a ferpent, iraraediately go in fearch of a
toad, with which they rub the wound, and thus
effed a perfed cure. They have alfo the art of
extrading

J56 A JOURNEY INTO CAFFRARIA, 1772,
extrading the poifon, by caufing another perfon ta
apply his mouth to tl>e wound, and fuck it, after
' fcarifying the flefo all round jt with a knife,
A ferpent {Coluber fcut. adb. 197, fquam,
caudal. 124) was found here, called the Bcom-
fiang, or (tree-ferpent) on account of its ^being
frequently found in trees, The length of it was
" eight feet; fupra totus fufcus, fquams linea ek-
vata carinatis ; fubtus totus fiavef cens,
The tulbaghia alUacea {wilde knofflook, or wild
garlic) the root of which fmells very ftrong of
garlic, was reported to be a charm for ferpents.
With the poifon offerpents, and the juice of
the fideroxylum toxiferum {gift-boom, or poifon-
tree) the Hottentots poifon their arrows, which
they ufe againft antelopes and wild buffaloes, as
alfo againft their enemies.
The fcrota of foeep are fometimes ferved up
at table, roafted, and tafted very well, but were
apt to rife on the ftomach. ^
The aponogeton diftachyon {waater uynties, or
water lilies) grew in many places, in foallow
puddles of water, very plentifully, and from its
white flowers that floated on the water, exhaled
a moft fragrant odour. The roots roafted, were
reckoned a great delicacy.
Cucumbers, which were cultivated in the gar
dens, were ferved up at table, by way of defert, being

A JOURNEY INTO CAFFRARIA, I772. 157 /
being pickled firft in fait water, and afterwards
in vinegar, with Cayenne pepper.
From ^ decodion of the folanum nigrum (or
deadly night-foade) and the fonchus oleraceus. (or
fow-thiftle) which were found growing wild near
almoft every farm-houfe, were formedj with wax
and lard, fome exceUent ialves, for healing of
wounds and ulcers of all kinds, remedies which,
were as comraon as they were approved.
The fwallows (hirundo ruftica) were now, in
the months of September and Odober, extremely
bufy in the mornings and evenings in building.
their nefts, and that in the very houfes of the far
mers, the doors of which are feldom fout; fome
tiraes, though very feldom, they fix their habi
tations in the ckfcs of rpcks. They build their
nefts here of clay, which they work up with their
biUa, and carry in fmall fcraps to their habita
tions, which thus become daily more round and
complete. The fwallows, which conftantly re
turn hither at this time, migrate every year from
hence, as they do In Europe, without the coun
try peppk being able to afccrtain whither they
retire during winter.
A report that was very general at Roode-zand,
ftruek me with the greateft aftoni foment, and
excited my curiofity in the higheft degree. The
inhabitants all affured me with one voice, that
there was a bufli to be found on the mountains, on

fjS A JOURNEY INTO CAFFRARIA, jj'jh
on which grew varioiis wonderful produds, fudH
as caps, gloves, worfted ftockings^ &c. of ^
fobftahce refembling a flne plufoi I impor
tuned almoft every body in the neighbourhood
to procure me, if poffible, fonrie of thefe mar
vellous pi-oduds, and I refolved not to leave the
place tUlri fhotdd have unriddled this myftery.-
Ih the courfe ofa few days, I had feveral of the
leaves brought me down from, the mountains;
which were Covered with a very thick foag or
down {tomentum) and very much refembled
white velvet. The girls, who were ufed to the
management of thefe leaves, began immediately,
with fingular dexterity arid nicety, to ftrip off
this downy cbat, whole and entire as it was, with
out rending it. After it had been taken off in
this manner. It was turned infide outwards;
when the green veins of the leaf appeared on one
fide. Accordingly, as the kaf was more or lefs
round or oval, divers of the above-mentioned
articles were formed out of it, the foape being
now and then affifted a littie by the fciffars. The
ftalks of the leaves furnifoed ftockings and ladies'
fingered gloves ; the fmaller leaves, caps. So
that the matter was not quite fo wonderful, as It
was wonderfuUy related. But in the mean time,
it remained ftill for me to find out to what plant
thefe leaves belonged, and this forced me, to
cliaib up myfelf the higheft fummits of the
mountains,

A JOURNEY INTO CAFFRARIA, I772. 1^9
mountains, where they grow. The plant, in
deed, was not fcarce in thofe places, but it coft
me a great deal of trouble before I could find
one in flower, or in feed, and when I did, I was
convinced that this plant belongs to the genus of
bupkurura bupleurmn giganteum. The downy
coat, refembling fine wool, being well dried, was
alfo ufed for tinder, and anfwered the purpofe
extreraely well.
Roode-zand has a fine church, and its own
appropriate minifter. To this parifo, aU who
live farther down in the country muft necef-
farUy belong ; though they fcarcely come more
than once a year up to church, on which occa
fion they generally bring their children with them
to be baptized.
On the Sth, having made here a fine coUedion
of plants, birds, and feeds, and our cattie being
perfedly refrefoed, we left this beautiful fpot,
and penetrated into the country over feveral ri
vers, fuch as Hartebeeft's rivier, (where we took
up. our lodging for the firft night with Michael
DE PloiX Hex rivier, Breede rivier, and fo on
to Matties valley and Brandfteeg, and croffing
Mattjes kloof, arrived at the houfe of Peter de
Wett, near the hot bath, where we refted ^
day for the fake of ufing the bath, and of vifiting
the neighbouring mountains. Before

I^ A JOURNkY INTO CAEFftARIA; 1773'.
Before we reached De Ploi'S houfe, neSf
Hahebeefi's rivi'efy.we paffed by amountain, called
Slangcnkop (ferpenc's head), which, mayj perhaps
be confidered as the moft reinarkabk in its kind;
It ftands feparated from the other ridges of rtiouri-
tains, like a large folitary rock, and is net verjf
high. On one fide of it is a large and deep Cre
vice, which makes this rock remarkable, as every
autumn almoft all the ferpents of the neighbour
hood creep into it, and affembk togetherj in
order tb remain there fecure arid Unmoleftedi
during their torpid ftate. Towards fummer;
When the heat begins tb fet in, ferpents of manjif
different kinds, and frequently coiled tip together
in large knots, are feen coming out from this
hole. In order to fpread therafelves afterwards all
over the- fields; each tb its refpedive place of
abode,, and. by means of proper food; to vecawti
the flefo which they have loft in this retreat;
The ceiuted veficatoria bruifed, was ufed in dif
eafes ofthe eyes. The ¦pyrits cydonia, (or quince.^
i-ree); grew here, being planted oUt for hedges.
The Hut bath has ids fourcP at the foot bf
fhe mountain, oh the eaft fide of the rldge-j iri
a fandy fo\\. The fprings arP feven in number)
one bf ¦*i?hich is very larger compared with the
others. Tlie feeond or uppermoft, iSofamlct'
ling fize, to the fouthward of which the firfl
is fittmted, and the third clofe by it. Below thefe

A JOURNEY INTO C.YFFRARIA, I772. 161
thefe Is a fourth, and the fifth is fituatpd a few
yards farther off, and between thefe two the
fixth, which does not fpring up in any one re
gular place, but bubbles up alternately out of
feveral pkces. The lowermoft Is the largeft,
and boils with great force. The water is quite
boiling hot, fo as even to be fit for fcalding ani
mals in. The fmoke is feen to rife as It were
out ofa pot boUing over the fire, and continues
fo to do in the ftream that runs down from it,
to the diftance of two mufket-foots. The fides
and bottom of the channel have no fediraent ;
but a green conferva grows in it. The ftones
that lay in the channel, and at this, time were
elevated a little above the forface of the water,
were neverthelefs covered with a grey coat,
and in the channel a foft ftone was found, which
might be fcraped with a knife, and was ufed in
ftead of chalk. A piece of blue woollen cloth
did not change its colour in the water, neither
did blue fugar-paper, a fign that the water con
tained no acid. By fugar of lead it was no
otherwife affeded than that it acquired the co
lour of milk, and with powder of Peruvian bark
it became rather brown. The vein runs always
equally ftrong, without increafing or diminifli-
ing; yet the water was faid to bc hotter in
fummer. Linen may be wafoed in it, without
• being coloured by it, and meat may be boiled in
VOL. I. M , the

1^2 A JOURNEY rNTO CAFFRARIA, 1/7 2'
the ufual manner in the bath itfelf, without ac
quiring any difagreeable tafte ; aH which proves
fhe purity of this water.
From the fprings, the water, in running down,
gathers together into feveral cavltks of different
fizes, in whieh people may fit down to ufe the
bath. Over two of thefe pits fmall huts were
ereded for the convenience of the company;
and to thefe cold water could be brought at
pfeafure from a ftream that ran down from the
mountains. Indeed, it would be too venture-
fome to go alone into this bath; as the heat of
the water, which increafes the palpitation of the
heart, drives the blood into the extremities, and
th^^ veins of the lower parts of the body, which
are in tbe bath, become fo expanded, that the
blood is derived in too great a quantity from
the head, and one is in danger of falling into a
fwoon in a quarter of an hour. Sometimes
both naufea and vomiting fiipervene.
Among the invalids, who were here at thi*
time for the benefit of their health, were two
who had a peculiar claim to our pity. The one
was a countryman, who had a malignant ulfcer
in his ftomach, in confequence of being gored.
by a mifchievous ox: he could not take any
thing into his ftomach except a very fhiall quan
tity of the b^th, water,, as he vomited continu
ally. The other was a flave, who had a krge
0efo^

A JfltlRNEY INTO CAFFRARIA, 177a. 16^
fiefoy excrefcence on his right flioulder, which
had pufoed the arm out of joint before; thi?
Was occafioned by a fmart blow on the foouldcr-
blade, that he had received by a fall.
The nugfembryantbeinum edtde grew here in
abundance, and efpecially in the fandy plains^
and was caUed Hottentots figs (Hottentots lyfgm)
the fruit when ripe and peeled, tafting tolerably
Well j it varies greatly in the colour of its blof
foms, which are fomerimes red j at other times,
carnation, yellow, or white.
On the gtb ofOSiober we paffed ovtr Mauricii
Heigbts to Koree. From this hill the mountain,
in one of its floping fides, was feen to confift of
(late (febiftttsfctiptura candida) in lamtnas, but
very brittk and unfit for writing upon. On the
other fide of this eminence were feen alfo the
Carrovs Plains, which are very dry, fteril, and
bare of grafs, being covered with a great numi*
ber bf fucculent plants only, and bufhes.
The prickly bufo of the arduina iifj^nofa nt»w
bbre ripe berries, which were faid to be eaten oy
the Hottentots,
I had here an opportunity of feeing the fames
epprattlon performed upon a great number of
hmbs, as I had befbre feen done with refped to
oxen : the fa^mef himfelf caftrating them with
t fmall inife', with which he laW «^n tfec fcro-
M 2 tum.

164 4 JOISRNEY INTO CAFFJIARIA, I772.
tum. The teflicles then were drawn out foccef^
fively,^ and very dpxteroufly feparated. .
In this place, where the farms ftand clofer
together than elfewhere, the foeep were marked,
and particularly In the ears. When it rained
any great length of time, the foeep grew ftifi;
and fome of them died. In confequence of this,
they were alfo attacked with the dropfy {afcites),
which the peafants cured by tapping them in the
beUy. The foeep are fometimes foorn in this coun
try, though the wool is feldom made ufe of;
but the foeep- fkins are frequendy given to the
flaves unfoorn.
The zygophyllum morgfana, a handfome forub,
now adorned the hills with its bloffoms, and ap
peared to be very proper for arbours.
A place or fold, where foeep as well as horn
ed cattle were inclbfed in the open air, was
calkd z. kraal. . This place was always near the
houfe. It was furrounded either by a mud-wall
or by very prickly bufhes. For the purpofe of
letting the cattle in or out, an opening was left,
before which was placed a gate or door. In
thefe parts, where there was plenty of wood,
thefe kraals were inclofed by feUed trees, con
fifting of the mimofa nilotica and arduina bi^i-
nofa, the moft prickly pf any almoft in aU
Africa.

A JOURNEY INTO CAFF-RARIA, 1772. 165
Africa. Thefe fences keep off wolves, foxes,
and other beafts of prey, as well in confequence
of their breadth, as by their prickles.
The miraofa nUotica, while it is cutting down,
may foraetiraes happen to faU upon a man, and
its prickles ro enter deep into his body, on which
occafion they may chance to break off, and ftick
faft in it.
The antelopes eat the leaves of: the mimofa
nilotica, and frequently the prickles of it run into*.
their feet, without doing them any injury.
In the crevices of the mountains a great num
ber of dafis {cavia capenfis) were found, which
were generally fuppofed to have the menftrual
flux : and the fand-hills to the right harboiared
near the fummit of their fides a deep white fand,
which was driven abput by the wind. -''
In a river, which had a fmaU creek, and in;
this a deep hole, I faw in miniature the manner
in which Nature forras whirl-pools, or maal-
ftroms. Above the hole, the froth and other
impurities were carried round in a diredion con
trary to that of the current, and were drawn down
in the centre.
On account of the flooding of the rivulets ;
we were obUged to remain here a . few days ;
and from hence we took our route on the i^tb
over the river Koree, which we croffed' twice,
afid afterwards paffed over Sand River,' v/hich
M 3 is

l6$ A JoyiRN^Y INT^ eAyFRARIA, 1772*
19 frequently dried up, tp Riet Fontgin (Reei
Foiffifein) and farther over Ceas Vogt's Rivi^
to a farm which At this time belonged to one
X.,z Roux,
The vifcumi ct^enfe, a parafitic plant, was feen
diflfeminated every wherc on the branches of
trees (efpecially of the rbus) by means of its
bfirries, which the birds are fond of.
On the i^tb, paffing by Geet's houfe, we
ereffed a very deep river, in our way to Philip
Bota's*. and went from thence paft Droski's.
bouie to Jacob Bota's.
Here they Apwed me 9 fpeclmen of eat-filveir
(!nti«ft ^rgptfefi) found in the ixipuntains, wbkh
was mixed with a tranfparent :|nd irregularly
(Uyrftalized calcareous fpar; as alfo a kind of
Bitumen, which the country people were pleaHed.
to call dftffes^p^vm', fuppo&ig it to be the in-
^UTated urine ofthe great mountain rat (catm
ct^e/t^s) that is found there. I was, informed
that this bitumen was to be fownd. in great
abundaftjce in the cracks i^iid crevige^ of thi
mountain, efpecially at one large p);oj«^i^
krants, or fummit. The bitumen was v«fiy im«.
pjwe, and known to the qonntry peopk on ac
count of:.It5 jjreat ufe in fm)§:wcs,
Thebrapches ofthe wa^^fofub fiigsir/V* fw^
fo}^, thi; bwes of whieh are covered with ft
{a$t fubftance rcJ^emblMig bfi«¥rva% were i0i
- , . i whole

A JOU&NSY INTO CAFFRARIA, 1772. 167
whole into a pot of boiling water, in order to
melt and flcim off the wax. It refembles grey
impure wax, is harder than talbw, and fomewhat
fofter than wax. The fiirmers ufe it for candles,
but the Hottentots eat it like a piece of bread,
^either with or without meat.
On the 17//&, paffing by Bruynties Rivier
and Leeume Rivier (Lion River) we came to
KeurehoonCs Rivier, which is fo named from the
trees {Jopbora capei^s) which grow near it in
^bundance^ An infufion of the root of afclepias imdulattt
was ufed as a remedy for the colic.
Cryftals of gypfum, which were faid to be
found in the mountains of Africa, were ufed for
cleanfing ulcers, when pounded and fpriidcled
ppon them.
On the xZtb we paflled Pufpas Vaile/ and
Rsvier, and arrived at Zwellendam, the refidence
of one ofthe company's land-drofts, whofe jurif
didion extends oyer all the interior part of the
country that lips beyon4 this fpot, and whofe
office is in fome refped, though not abfolutely,
fimllar to that of the governor of a province.
The acrid berries of the fagara capenfis were
ufed both here and i^ other parts of the country
in the colic.
After diniog with the landrdroft, M, MSntz,
hf whom we were received with the greateft
M 4 hofpital«y»

l68 A JOURNEY INTO-CAFFRARIA, 177-2.-
hofpitality, we continued our journey acrofs the
broad river, known by the name of Buffeljagt' s
Rivier, to one of the company's .poftsy called
¦Riet Valley (Reed Valley), where we ftayed feve-
•ral days, to arrange the coUedions we had made,
and to repair our wretched carriage, which had
¦'been foattered to pieces by the ftrong and moun
tainous roads; a, cart fo fmall, old, and crazy,
•that probably nobody, either before or after us,
tjari boaft of having made, in fuch a vehicle, fo
long and dangerous a journey into this moun
tainous country.
The plains now began to abound more in
grafs; and looked fomething like meadows. —
The mountains which had followed us, as it were,
all the way from Roode Zand, now terminated
graduaUy In large declivities like fteps, and hills.
In the fame proportion, likewife, the herds of
Cattle became larger, and occurred more fre
quentiy ; while the vineyards and corn-fields
which, however, were not wanting as yet, grew
more and more fcarce.
We were told that infedious diftempers fre
quently prevailed among the cattle, here, and
that the boandziekte was not uncommon. It, was
defcribed as firft attacking the lungs and liver,
and then the other parts of the body; in .conr..
fequence of which the flefo became. fb foft:'and
. . tender,

A JOURNEY INTO CAFFRARIA, I772. 169
tender, that there was hardly any cohefion left
between the fibres.
Not far from this farra of the company's,
which particularly furnifoes it with large timber,
in a cleft in the mountains, ftood a large wood,
caUed Grootvader's Bofch, or Grandfather's
Wood. To this we made an excurfion, with a
view of becoming acquainted with the indi
genous trees of Africa. After pafling by a farm-
houfe called Rietkeul, we arrived at Duyvenhoek's
Rivier, at a fpot which had obtained the name
of Helle (or Hell) on account ofthe mountain at
this part forming a very deep valley. The
foreft was very thick and lofty, but unfortunately
'the trees at this feafon had neither bloffom nor
fruit on them, to fatisfy my curiofity.
Camaffte-hmt was a very fine fort of wood,
ufed for the borders of chefts of drawers, and of
other pieces of furniture. ~
Stink-hout (ftink- wood) which referabks the
walnut-tree, is a taU tree, and Is ufed for raaking
writing-defks and chefts of drawers.
Geel-hout, or, yellow wood {ilex crocea) is a
large tree, the wood of which is very heavy,
more or lefs of a pale yeUow colour, and Is ufed
for making tables.
A rock cryftal that was found here was foown
to me, of the length of the little finger, and
pointed at both ends. A fpe-

IJO A JOURNEY INTO eAFFRARIA, 1772.
A fpecies of pepper (piper capenfe) that was
found in abundance in the wood here, was
calkd by the country people ftaart pepper (or
tail-pepper) and ufed by them as a fpice. .
We left our cart at the company's poft, and
in the place of it procured a large waggon tilted
over with fail -doth, together with ten frefo
oxen to continue our intended expedition to the
Coaft of Caffraria,
Not far from this farm there lived a few Hot
tentots, who were fometimes employed in the
fervice of the farm and the company, Tbey
were quite mad after brandy and tobacco, and
feemed to place their whole delight in fUth and
ftench. Their bodies were befmeared all over
with greafe, and powdered with the powder of
iucku {diofma) ; and to foow us reiped a;
ftrangers, they had painted themfelves befides
with red and black ftreakg. The women wore
a triangular piece of fkin, and the men a bag or
pouch, on the fore-part of their bodies, for the
fake of decency. Round the neck, arms, and
waift, they were decorated with ftrings of bhie,
white, red, and modey coloured glafs-beads in
feveral rows. Some of them wore rings of iron,
brafs, or leather round their arms, A foeepT
fltin thrown over their hips, and another over
their back conftituted the whole of their ap»
parel. The tobacco-pipe was continually in
tbeir mouths. They fubfift upon their cattle, and

A JOURNEY I»T0 CAFFRARIA, 177*. 171
aad upon bulbous roots, which they are very
ready at finding out and digging up in tbe
fields. For want (^clodct, the colonifts always mea
fure time by the courfe of the fun.
On the iyi and i^tb we paffed over Kraksuf
Rivier, and Krakous Heights {Krakcus Hocigt^
and at noon arrived ac Vett Rivier, and after
wards crofllng this river, paffed by feveral fama-
hpufes. In thefe plains the aloe-tree {alee p^<Jiata)
fi-om the leaves of which the gum aloe diftils,
grew in greater abundance than I ever obferved
it to do in any other place.
The foeep here were feeding on various poi
fonous plants, fuch as the rbus Ittcidum, ^citm
afrum, &c.
On the %c,tb we vifited Martin Lagrams^
at faimt Rmer, a farmer, who had as mwy
fowls as fuppUed bim with a hundred egg«
every day.
From thence croffing Zoet-melks Rivier (New-
n*ilk River) apd paffing by Zwarte Valley,,, ox
Black 'Vale, we came to a farm called Wel te
Vre^ (Well fettled) near Vaife Mtfeim (or
Falf^ River).
Hard by Zwwt-e Valky, to tbe kft, the
rf!<:Ji5 pJai^y appfar^. to contain iron.
Qfl;

172 A JOURNEY INTO CAFFRARIA, 1772«
On the 21th, paffing hy- Groote valley, or the
Great valley,, and croffing the broad river, called
Gaud's river, we arrived at Daniel Pinard's,
- Here, we were -InforAiedj the Rabies canina
and vulpina had prevailed.
I obferved that tpe peafants- here pradifed a
curious method of clearing their poultry- houfes
from vermin. Thefe houfes are conftruded of
clay, almoft like large ovens ; and wli&rf'they are
infeded with vermin, the owners have nothing
more to dp, than to put a littie ftraw into them,
and fet it on fire, in order to be rid of thefe un
welcome guefts.-
On the 2Sth, we paffed by a large rock, which,
on account of its harbouring bees, has obtained
the name of the Honey rock {Honing klip) and
reached a farm-houfe, [ fituated near Attaqua^'
kloof. The Honey-rock yields, at a great diftance,
a remarkable echo, that repeats feveral fyllabks'
fuccefllvely, on which /account, it was an objed
of attention to us in this place.
The wood of the olive-tree {olea capenfis)
which was white and very heavy, ferved to make
chairs of.
It is true, wheat was not fown here In great
quantities, but the foil was faid to be fo fertile,-
and the roots of the thinly fown corn to branch
out fo much, that every grain always produced
feveral ears. They affured us that they had fre
quentiy

A JOURNEY into CAFFRARIA, I772. l^J
quently counted twenty, nay, as far as eighty
ears, that proceeded frora one root. .This. I
conceived to be^-fcarcely credible, and in oijder
to gain more accurate information pn this fub
jed, I undertpok to count them myfelf in the
field; when l-fpund, that from -one fingle grain
of wheat, a great many ears had frequentiy fprung
up, though the. number of thofe that I exa
mined, did not araount to more than one and
forty. -.-
The Hottentots we had hitherto met with in
our expedition, had • either befn brought up by
the Europeans, or In the neighbourhood of their
farms, and confequently were often much altered
from their natural ftate. Thofe we vifited now,
and efpecially after this period, lived moftly at
a greater diftance frpm the Europeans, had fom.e-
tlmes viUages and families of their own, and pre
fented themfelves to us more and more in a ftate
of nature, that is to fay, in the ftate in which we
were defirous of becoming better acquainted
with thera.
A century ago, it was rauch eafier to fearch
into, and get acquainted with the peculiar man
ners and mode of living of this peopk, at which
period they dwelt nearer the Cape, were more
numerous, ahd enjoyed their priftine Uberty.
Now, the way to their abodes is very long, their
focieties fmall, their manners and way of life
much

^174 A JOURrtEYlNTO^APFRAJlTi, 177^*"
much altered, and the whole naticM under greaf
reftraint. Some of thofe that lived as iervants with the
colonifts, fpoke Dutch tolerably well. When
the ^rmers firft fettled in thb part of the world,
they found the Hottentots to be very much afraid
of gunpowder and fire-arms, not being able, as
they exprefiled themfelves, to form the leaft idea of
their arrows, meaning their baOs, of which, after
they were fhot, they could not difcern tbe flight;
nor of their fcrews, which tbey couH not pull
out again, as they could nails.
We heard frequent mention made ofa Hotten
tot, who had died a few years befeve, and who, m
confequence of having been toffed by a wild buf
falo, had loft the whok of his tower jaw, not
withftanding which, he had Kved twelve or thir
teen years after the accident. He could not fpeak
a word ; as for his viduals, he peowded them be-
nveen two ftones (which are commonly ufed bf
the Hotrentpfs, inftead of a peftk and mortar)
and then crammed them down his throat with Ms
fmgPTS. He made, likewife, foift to fmbke tb-
baccb, by holding his hand over the aperstiye.
At laft he had the good fortune tb fooot thevPff
buffalo, which had brought this 'difftfter upott
hhn. The \ezve& of the Afrnge»et'iJkatt>ria wereufPci
by the country people iti this- and other pkces,
inftead

A JOURNEY INTO CAFFRARIA, 1772. I75
inftead of ccmtbarides. Bruifed, and applied to
any part of thc body, in the fpace of half an hour,
they raifed a large blifter, which keeps open a
long time. The root alfo cut into flices, and
applied to any part of the body, draws fo pow
erfuUy, that if it Iks on all night, the fore will
keep open for a month. This plant grew chiefly
near the precipkes of mountains ; and is ufed ia
rheumatic and other pains.
All along from Roode-zand, we had now pro«
ceeded nearly due fouth-eaft, through a country
furrounded on both fides with mountains, of
which, the ridge that lay to the right of us was
now at an end, without reaching as far as the
fea-foore. The ridge we had on our left, ftretched
ftiU farther on, fo that as we wiflied to penetrate
deeper into the country, we were under the ne
ceffity of crc^fifig it.
Such a pafllage may be effeded through At-
taquas kloof, a vak of fuch a length, that it re
quires almoft a day's journey to pafs through
it. On the 2gtb, we took a refohition to fend our
waggon this way, with Mr. Immelman, and to
make a round on horfeback ourfelves, through
the verdant and woody country of the Hautniquas^
(which lay to the right of us, and extended quite
to tbe fea-fhore) and afterwards to crofs the
mountains
9

17 > AJOUR.NEY INTO CAFFRARIA, I772.
mountains in another place, and join our waggon
in Lange klocf.
With this view, paffing by little and ^eat
Brack-rivers, we came to Zout fontein, a farm,
belonging to a man ofthe name of Vivjer ; af
terwards we rode through a woody dale, and paft
a colony, where we faw only a few Hottentots
tending the cattle, and at laft arrived at Klein
fontein, or the little fountain, near Witters rivier.
The following days we continued our journey
paft two or three colonifts' houfes, to George
BoTA, at his farm of Sandvliet, near Keerom rivier,
where we refted ourfelves a litde. In our road
we caught a yellow ferpent, fix inches long, and
not venomous, under fome ftones.
Of the bark of the Anthyllis, the Hottentots
have the art of making ropes, by means of which
they afcend trees, as by a. ladder, when they
want to get honey out of them. For this pur
pofe, they firft tie a noofe round the trunk, in
which they put one foot, then they faften another
noofe higher up, and when mounted in that,
untie the former, and fo on.
Roads, that can be properly fo called, are not
to be found In all this fouthern part of Africa;
yet the way which people in general take, when
they travel, is pretty well beaten in the neigh
bourhood of the Cape ; farther down in the coun try

A JOURNEY INTO CAFFRARtA, 1772. I77
try indeed, very often not the leaft veftige of
a road appears. Therefore in plains that are
cither very extenfive, or covered with under
wood, it may eafily happen that a traveller foall
lofe his way; fo that he ought to be well ac
quainted with, and accurately obferve the marks,
by which he niay get Into the right road again.
He muft fee then whether there be any foeep's
dung in the fields, which foews that there Is a
farm-houfe in the vicinity; and likewife, whether
he can dlfcover any herds of cattle grazing, or
any corn-field.
The country here, In general, confifted of ex
tenfive plains, fuU of rich pafture, interfperfed
with hUlocks, and valleys, that abounded in wood
and water.
. The trees in the woods were large and tall,
but for the moft part crooked and misfoapen,
and at the farae time covered with mofs, like
thofe in the northern regions.
The Hottentot women here, wore a littk
cockk-foell {nerita biftrio, and the cypraa mo
neta) by way of ornament, both on their caps,
and round their wrifts, in the form of bracelets.
Their cap is a flip of buffalo leather, of a hand's
breadth, without any crown, ornamented on the
outfide with thefe foells in various rows, ac
cording to the different tafte and wealth of the
owner. VOL. I. N The

178 A JOURNEY INTO CAFFRARIA, 1772.
The Hottentots of this place had a cuftom,
which is not general with this nation, of wearing
a bag of leather, that hung by a ftrap over their
fooulders, quite down on their hips. At the
lower end it was ornamented with thongs of lea
ther, like fringes, to which were tied foells, that
made a rattling noife. This bag ferved to keep
various articles in. •
Other Hottentot women wore on their heads
a ftriped conical cap, made of feveral narrow
flips of black, white, and brown lamb-fkins, in
their natural ftate, fewed together. Thefe caps
were alfo, foraetimes, decorated with glafs beads,
fixed on them in various forms, or hanging
down like ftrings of pearls.
Round their arms and legs they generally wore
rings of ox-hides, which I had here the oppor
tunity of feeing made. The flips, cut from the
hide, were beaten till they were quite round, and
both the ends ftuck fo faft together, that it could
not be perceived where they were joined.' Thefe
rings they afterwards forced over their feet, wear
ing, efpecially the women, fuch a number of themj
as to cover half the leg, or more. I have alfo
fometimes feen them wafo, and afterwards greafe
thefe rings.
In the eggs of oftriches,, as I was informed,
a ftone was fometimes found, which was fet, and
ufed for buttons. There

A JOURNEY INTO CAFFRARIA, 1772. I79
There are Inftanccs of an European's having
married a Hottentot woman, who has then been
baptized. But it has more frequently happened,
that a colonift, without regular marriage, has
had feveral children by a Hottentot miftrefs, and
that thefe children have been baptized when they
were feveral years old.
In raany places I obferved the land to have
been fet on fire for the purpofe of clearing it ;
though in a very different manner from what is
done in the north. Divers plains here, produce
a very high fort of grafs, which being of too
coarfe a nature, and unfit food for cattle, is not
confumed, and thus prevents frefo verdure from
foooting up ; not to mention that It harhours a
great number of ferpents and beafts of prey.
Such a piece of land as this, therefore, is fet on
fire, to the end that new grafs may fpring up
from the roots. Now if any of thefe places were
overgrown with bufoes, thefe latter were burned
quite black, and left ftanding in this footy con
dition for a great length of time afterwards, to
my great vexation^ as weU as that of other tra
vellers, who were obliged to pafs through them.
Almoft every day we were wet to the fkin, in
confeq'jcnce of deluging foowers of rain, which
were fometimes accompanied with thunder.
Though at this feafon they have always fine wea
ther near the Cape, it appeared as if winter
N 2 and

l8o A JOURNEY INTO CAFFRARIA, 1772.
and the rainy feafon had not yet taken leave of
this part of the country. The rain was the more
troublefome to us, as, befides that we had np
opportunity of getting foelter here, and the foort
intervals of fun-foine were not fufficient to dry
us when wet to the fkin ; the ground, likewife^
efpecially of the hills, was now fo wet and flip
pery, that our horfes, being, according to the
invariable cuftom of the country, unfood, ftum
bled continually, and in raany places we were in
great danger of breaking our arras and legs.
On the 2d of November we were overtaken by
fome remarkably heavy foowers, when we croffed
^laiman's drift, a river, which like many othe^:
rivers here near the fea, rifes and falls with the
tide; and after paffing through feveral woody
vales and rivers, at length arrived at Magerman's
kraal, a colony or grazing farmj belonging to
Frederick Seelf.
More weary and wet, or in a worfe plight, we
pever could have been, and worfe we could never
have been accommodated than at this place,
No European dwelt here, but a black female
flave, aded in her mafter's abfence as raiftrefs
ofthe houfe, and had the fuperin tend ance over a
great herd of cattle, and over the Hottentots that
tended them. The houfe was an oblong, cot
tage, conftruded of timber,, and daubed aU over
with clay. In this, I and my companions, with
a great

A JOURKtEY INTO CAFFftARIA, I772. l8r
a great number of Hottentpts, were obliged to
pafs the night, happy tp have fomp kind of foel
ter from the rain, wind, and cold.
As in the courfe of the few days fince we had
left our waggon, we had made fome coUedions,
and therefore could not poffibly ftow every thing
upon our horfes backs, we were under the per
ccffity of taking three oxen from the houfe above-
mentioned, to carry our baggage, apd three
Hottentots to Icid them.
Oxen are much ufed in thefe parts, when tamed
and broken in by the Hottentots, to carry bur
dens. Thefe oxen have a hole through the car
tilage of their nofe, in which Is put a ftick, at
both ends of which are faftened ftraps, like a bri
dle, by the help of which the pxen are guided.
In different places wc obferved pits dug, like
thofe in which wolves are ufually caught, and ip
which, when well covered over by the Hotten
tots, buffaloes and wild beafts are taken.
The Hottentots always carry the javelin or two
(affagays) with thern on their journies. Thefe
affagays confift of an iron-fpear hollowed out on
each fide about fix Inches long, with- or without
an iron foaft, which is fometimes round and
fmpoth, and fometimes grooved. This fpear is
faftened with thongs of leather to a flender roun4
ftick, five feet long, made of the 4ff'^g^y.'''V9fid
{Curtifia fagined), and tapering towards the end,
N3 With

lS2 A JOURNEY INTO CAFFRARIA. I772.
With thefe lances, which they throw with great
dexterity to the diftance even of loo paces, they
defend themfelves againft their enemies and wild
beafts, and are able to kill with them, buffaloes,
and other animals.
Inftead of China-veffels and calabafoes, po
verty had taught them to ufe the foells of the
tortoifes, which frequent the bufoes in the fandy
plains, particularly thc Teftudo minuta and geo-
metrica. From their frequent befmearing themfelves,
as well as from the heat of the climate, the Hot
tentot women have always very flabby breafts^
that hang down very low. And therefore, at
the fame time that they carry their infants on
their back, they can with the greateft eafe throw
the breaft to them over their fooulder. Thefe in
foape and fize fometiraes very much refembled
calabafoes; but araong the curious fights that
attraded our notice in this folltary place, was a
Hottentot girl, whofe breafts were fo long, that
they hung down as low as to her thighs, and were
the largeft that I ever faw among this people.
Here alfo I learned a curious way of baking
bread fpeedily without an oven. The flour was
kneaded up with water in the ufual manner to
dough, of this afterwards a thick cake was made,
which was laid in the embers, and covered with
them, fo that in confequence pf the heat com
municated

A JOURNEY INTO CAFFRARIA, 1772, iSj
municated to It, it was foon thoroughly baked ;
but the afoes that adhered to it made it fo dirty,
that they were obliged to fcrape it before they
could eat it.
The Hottentots always fit before the fire,
fquatted down upon their hams, on which oc
cafion the women conftantiy lay the covering
of their modefty, which here is worn In the
form of a fquare, underneath them. The huts
in thefe parts were formed of wooden ftakes^
round, and were convex and low, and covered
with ftraw mats, in the form of a hay-ftack,
with a fmaU aperture In the front, where the
fire is made.
At the dawn of day, on the Z^ of November,
we fet out again on our journey, and croffed
feveral rivers, fuch as the Krakakou, Ao, Kou
kuma, and Neifena, The woods we paffed
through were narrow and full of prickly bufoes.
We could find no other paffage through them
than the tracks of the Hottentots, fo that we
were obliged almoft to creep on all fours, and
lead our horfes by the bridle, Auge, the gar
dener, having travelled this way before, was now
our guide, and we had left the Hottentpts with
our oxen behind us. In the afternoon we ar
rived at Koukuma Rivier. We forded over onp
of its branches, and intended to pafs through a
thicket to a farm which we difcovered on an
N 4 eminence

l84 A JOURNEY INTO caffraria, I772.
enrilnencc on the pther fide of .thl§ thicket,, be
longing to pne Helgert Muller ; but we
had hot advanced far into the wood before we
had the misfortune of meeting with a large old
male buffalo, which was lying down quite alpoe,
in a fpot that was free from bufoes, for thp
fpace of a few fquare yards. He no fooner
difcovered Auge, who went firft, than roaring
horribly fie rufoed upon him'. The gardener
turning his horfe foort round, behind a large
tree, by that means got in fome meafure out of
the buffalp's fight, which now rufoed flxaight
forwards towards the ferjeant, who foUowed next,
and gored his horfe in the belly in fuch a ter
rible manner, that It feU on Its back that in-
ftant, with its feet turned up in the air, and
all Its entrails hanging out, in which ftate it
lived almoft half ari hour. The gardener and
the ferjeant in the mean time had climbed up
into trees, where they thought themfelves fecure.
The buffalo after this firft atchievennent, now ap
peared to take his courfe towards the fide where
we were approaching, and therefore could not
have failed in his way to pay his compliraents to
me, who aU the while was walking towards him,
and In the narrpvv pafs forraed by the boughs^
and branches of the trees, and on account ofthe
riiftling noife thefe made againft my faddle
and baggage, had neither feen npr heard any
thing

A JOURNEY INTO CAFFRARIA, I772. 185
thing of what had paffed. As in my way I
frequently ftopped to take up plants, and put
them into my handkerchief, I generally kept
behind my companions, that I might not hinder
their progrefs ; fo that I was now at a fmall
diftance behind them.
The ferjeant had brought two horfes with
him for his journey. One of them had al
ready been difpatched, and the other now ftood
juft in thc way of the buffalo, who was gping
out of the wood. As foon as the buffalo faw
this fecond horfe, he became more outrageous
than before, and attacked it with fuch fury,
that he not only drove his horns into the hprfe's
breaft and out again through the very faddle,
but alfo threw it to the ground with fuch vio
lence, that it died that very inftant, and aU the
bones in its body were broken. Juft at the mo
ment that he was thus occupied with this latter
horfe, I came up to the opening, where the
wood was fo thick, that I had neither room to
turn my horfe round, nor to get on ope fide.
I was therefore obliged to abandon him to his
fate, and take refuge in a tolerably high tree, u^
which I climbed.
The buffalp having finlfoed this his fepqn^,
exploit, fuddenly turned round, and fhaped his
courfe the fame way which y^e h^d intended to
take. From

l86 A JOURNEY INTO CAFFRARIA, 1772.
From the place I was In, and the eminence I
had gained, I could plainly perceive one of the
horfes quite dead, the other fprawUng with its
f^et and endeavouring to rife, which it had not
flrength to do, and the other two horfes foiver-
ing with fear, and unable to make their efcape ;
but I could neither fee nor hear any thing of
my fellow-travellers and companions, which In
duced me to fear that they had fallen vidims to
the firft tranfports of the buffalo's fury. I there
fore made all poffible hafte to fearch for them,
to fee if I could in any way afljft them ; but not
difcovering any traces of them in the whok
field of battle, I began to call out after them ;
when I difcovered thefe magnanimous heroes
fitting faft, like two cats, on the trunk of a tree,
with their guns on their backs, loaded with fine
foot, and unable to utter a fingle word.
I encouraged them as well as I could, and
advlfed them to corae down, and get away as
faft as poffible from fuch a dangerous place,
where we ran the rifk of being once more at
tacked. The ferjeant at length burft out Into
tears, deploring the lofs of his two fpirited fteeds ;
but the gardener was fo ftrongly affeded, that
he could fcarcely fpeak for fome days after.
Thus we went back to the very fpot from
which we fet out, and after paffing over fome
very tirefome hills, arrived at the place of our
deftination ,

A JOURNEY INTO CAFFRARIA, 1772, I 87
deftination ; but as the fearjeant could not crofs
the river without a horfe, 1 took him up behind
me, and after having left him my horfe, walked
on to the houfe.
Here my firft care was to difpatch fome Hot
tentots to the thicket, to take the faddles off the
two horfes, which hereafter might be of fervice.
Thefe Hottentots armed themfelves with lances,
their ufual weapons, and informed us that they
had before obferved that one folitary buffalo
haunted that wood, which, as they faid, was fo
fpiteful, that he had been driven away from the
herd by the other buffaloes, and was obhged to
Uve alone.
No European was to be found in this place,
there being none but Hottentots, nor any other
hut than thofe which were inhabited by the Hot
tentots themfelves, and which, on account of the
vermin they harboured, no European, even in
a cafe ofthe greateft neceffity, could ever think
of lodging in.
We were therefore obUged, with a flraw mat
under us, a faddle under our head, and a fire
at our feet, to pafs the night in the open air.
Fortunately for us, the fky was very clear and
ferene; but at the fame rime the cold was fo
great, that we could not fleep, being obUged
every hour to rife and warm ourfelves aU over
before the fire, for the purpofe of making which
we ha^ had the forefight to order a fufficient quantity

S-33 ^ JOUSJTET ISTO CAFF&ASIA, VJI^m
qaandty of log^ ¦soA bnifli-miqd to beiKui^K
to ffie Ysas. die i^ic befoce^
Hemp {Cam^as Jetim) W2s ciddv^ed bore
hf the HcKtenttKs in a veiy finali iocialbEe.
'Tius is a ^ant oniyer^Bj v&d. in diis ooon-
tiy, tfaon^ HS- a pispofe verr cti^rent fipp
that to wiucfa it is ^|Sed bj die iodnfiiiiw
Enn^qin. Tlie HoC^ntoC loves nqdung lo
lidl as tobacco, and wkfa no «Kher chiog can be
be £> eaSIy enticed inro a man'sfenrice; boc for
ifnokif^ and for pFododi^ a |deafii^ inioxica-
titM^ he finds thb pcnfimpos pfent not ivSSh
cieBtly flrong ^id therefore in csder eo ^occuc
lumfelf this pkafoire more fpoxlily and defi-
oonlfyjheaiixBlHsmbaccD ifith iicmp ciupped
vary fine. Ic k finpr^i^ ^as. dus nsibi^
^thoagh, be^KC the airivai of fhe Earq^ieaiis ie
had no ii^rcocrfe -w^ the lefi: cf the vcrid
and cqnfo^aen^ was ^sarznt of &£ nfe <^
fic^jocoo, Qxtold, iK^twidillandu^ liecame fo dif-
tiadedly food of this pcnlbnocjs f^ant; and that
for it and E»andy thej qwid be ioduc^d id feU
to tbe Dimji a cco&Jerable portian c£ didr
^nd near the C^e ; a tranfefHon which has
coft , ^em fo dear, txitfa with ie^k^ go tiidr
Hbmj and to ^le kad df their &ie-^alier$.
Op the 4^ ^€ qwtted this pis{:^ and in the
oreiung ceadied Petejl Pi.aji'ii's hna, called
ASeU^bemt Kraal, xai xbc Ikt$ Rkiar.
Vm

A jduRNEY INTO Caffraria, 1772. 189
The ferjeant was obliged tb put up with drt
ox by way of nag for two days, as no hoi-f^
was to be found hereabouts ; this anfwered to
lerably well, though it was very fatiguing, as
well on account of the breadth of the ox's back,
as becaufe he could ufe no ftirrups.
On the 5/^ we croffed Pifang River, to go
to Jacob Bota's farm, calkd alfb Pifang
Rivier. This farm, which was entirely a grazing
farm, was fituated not far from the fea-foore,
and a whok fociety, confifting of more than
fifty Hottentots, were here in the fervice of this
farmer, lived in his vicinity, arid were fupported
by him. The harbour here was very wide and
beautiful. The farraer hirafelf was not at home, having
fet out for the Cape that very day ; but an old
faithful Hottentot was in the mean time our kind
and attentive hofl, and gave us all neceffary
afllftance. My two fellow-travellers, not having yet got
the better of their terror, and wearied out with
the many croffes they had met wlt"^ in the* courfe
of their journey, now refolved here to fet bounds
at once to their dangers and their curiofity, fmall
as this latter was, and to make the beft of their
way back from hence to the Cape, where they
might get more wine to drink, and be lefs
liable

I A JOURMEY INTO caffraria, I772.
liable to be frightened by buffaloes. But when
I reprefented to them what a cowardly appear
ance this would have^ and that they had made
but a fmall coUedion as yet, likewife that we
were feparated from our waggon, our other fel-
low-traveUer, and the reft of our baggage ; add
ing befides, that though they foould accompany
me no farther, I was neverthelefs determined to
purfue my' journey, they were at laft perfuaded
to alter their refolution.
However, I let my doleful companions reft
here for a few days, whUe I vifited the fea-
foore, and the adjacent mountains, which were
covered with forubs and bufoes of various
kinds, and particularly with the Arduina bif
pinofa, fo that In feveral places they were im
penetrable; and in thefe I was frequently fo
much entangled, that I was obliged to crawl
for a long way on the tops of the ftiff bufoes,
which .with their foarp prickles tore my hands
and clothes quite to tatters. The bare-footed
Hottentot who accompanied me, was fo much
lacerated and fo bloody, as to be a real objed of
compaffion ; but in my fearch after plants, hav
ing loft ray way in the thicket, we had no other
refource left. At the foot of the raountains
were flat rocks, on which feals lay fleeping in
the fun ; a circumftance, whence the mountain
has its name of Robbeberg (or Seal Mountain.) Is

A JOURNEY INTO CAFFRARIA, I772. ipi
It projeds a gi-eat way into the fea, like a pe-
ninfula, and is covered with fmaU fea-foells
{Concha.) The Robbeberg is a Angular mountain, and dif
ferent from any other that I have feen In Africa.
Its middlemoft ftratum Is a very firm concre
tion of round and Irregularly-foaped pebbles,
and indurated lime, about four fathoms broad.
It perfedly refembles a piece of mafonry. The
uppermoft ftratum appeared to me to be a
brownifo rock. The lowermoft is fand-ftone.
On another fide of the mountain there is a
heap of indurated fand, which the 'vater has
fcooped holes into. In fome placcb^ he fand
had concreted with clay in a tubular for^i, and
large maffes of it had falkii down. The flat
foot of the mountain, towards the fea, had vari
ous holes in it of different fizes, fome of them
as round as if they had been turned, and others
oblong. On one fide, the loweft ftratum was
a whitifo-grey quartz, that was greafy to the
touch. The mountain had, moreover, Ibng
clefts and crevices, in which hung a number of
thick ftaladltes, covered with a fine down-like
fubftance, which was fometimes quite green.
The fand-ftone was ofa very fine grain.
The Strelitfia, with its yellow flowers and
blue neSlarium, grew near this fpot, and was one
of the moft beautiful plants, of which thc bulbs were

tg2 A JOURNEY INTO CAFFRARIA, 1772.
were procured to fend to Europe. The Hot-^
tentots were faid to eat the fruit of it.
The Hottentots were at no great pains iri
dreffing their viduals. Buffalo's fl^fo was
merely cut into flices, and then fmoked, and
at the fame time half broiled in the embers
over a few Coals ; this was eaten withput bread,
though, perhaps, it was in the firft ftage of
putrefadion. It is a cuftom among the Hottentots, that if
a cow is barren, foe muft be killed ; but In this
cafe its flefo is eaten by married peopk only,
and not by thofe that are fingle.
Greafe is the great dainty of the Hottentots,
which they are not only fond of eating, but can
alfo drink without finding any inconvenience
from it.
The fmaU hiits of the Hottentots are at times
fp full of verrain, both of the hopping and
creeping kind, as not to be habitable by them !
they are then forced to remote them to ano
ther place, a removal which does not take a
very long time, neither is It particularly expen
five. I have feen it perforraed with the greateft
agility and difpatch. Firft, a few withies were
fixed in the earth, and bent in the form of
arches tp determine the height of the hut, and
give it a rotund figure. Thefe are afterwards
covered with rufoes, or mats made of rufbes,
(^Cyperus textilis) which keep out both wind
I and

A JOURNEY INTO CAFFRARIA, I772. I93
and rain. All round the bottom dung is laid,
to make the hut tight and clofe in that part.
Su Kea (Potteflaan) was the name given by
fhe Hottentots to a drum they fometimes ufed
to beat to their mufic. Over a pot with water
in it was extended a foeep-fkin, which had pre
vloufly been well foaked, and was tied round
the edge of the pot with a leathern thong.
The fingers of thc left hand being placed near
the edge, and the thumb in the middle, they
beat with the two firft fingers of the right-
hand upon the other edge, which produced a
dull heavy found, that had nothing pleafing in
it. To this wretched mufic a Hottentot would
dance in the following manner : holding in his
right-hand a firing faftened to the roof or wall,
and remaining on the fame fpot, he hopped firft
on one foot, and then upon the other, all the
while beating tim.e with them. During this he
writhed his body in various curves, and threw
his head from one fooulder to the other in a
femicircular diredion ; aU the while finging, and
aU this to^a^certaln modulation. One of thefe
dances will fometimes laft a confiderable time,
and throws' the dancer into a violent perfpiration.
They always wipe the fweat off their faces with
a fox's tail.
I obferved feveral things for which the Hot
tentots had no words in their own language, fuch
as cefee, hottfings, company {compagnie}.
VOL. I. O The

194 A JOURNEY INTO CAFFRARIA, 1772.
. . Tihe women, carried their Infants on their backs
under the foeep-fkin, which they call a krofs ;
the child was faftened by a leather ftrap that
went round tbe mother's and its own neck, and
was &rther fecured by another ftrap that paffed
over the krofs under its pofteriors, the mother
aUthe while attending to her bufinefs as ufual.
Some of the women here wore firings of glafs-
beads round their legs, others had the depen
dent fides of their krofs ornamented with beads,
which, among other things, they receive of the
farmers for their wages. Others had a tortoife-
foell hanging at their backs, in which they pre
ferved either their tobacco or bucku {diofma).
For want of clay tobacco-pipes they ufe wooden
pbes. The farmers themfelves, for want of proper
veffels, were often obliged to keep their milk
and honey in leathern bags.
The fields hereabouts were full of wild buf
faloes, fo that it was not uncommon to fee a
hundred or two of them in a herd. They
generally lie ftlUin the thickets and woods in
tiie day time, and in the night go out into the
fields to graze. ••
¦¦ The houfe in" which we were lodged was
roomy and large, weU conftruded of clay, with
dooti, and with foutters before the window-holes,
as glafs windows coirld not be eafily procured from"
fo great a diftance as the Cape. The whole roof
r=T" .in

A JOUllNEY INTO CAFFRARIA, 1772. I9I
'n the' kitchen was hung with thick flices of
buffalo's flefli, which, being dried and fmoked,
they ate as hung-beef.
Buffaloes were foot here by a Hottentot, ivho
had been trained to this bufinefs by the farmer,
and in this manner found the whole family In
meat, without having recourfe to the herd.
The balls were counted out to him every time
he went a foooting, and he was obliged to
furnifo the farae number of dead buffaloes as
he received of baUs. Thus the raany Hotten
tots that lived hei-e were fupported without ex-
pence, and without the decreafe of the tame
cattle, which conftltute the whole of the far
mer's wealth. The greateft part of the flefo
of the buffalo faUs to the foare of the Hotten
tots, but the hide to that of the mafter.
The Hottentots dreffed the buffaloes hides
in the following manner : the hide was ftretched
out on the ground by means of ftakes, after
which warm afoes were ftrewed over It, and the
hair fcraped off with a knife or fpade.
For want of the fooes ufuaUy worn in other
places, which could not be procured fo far up
in the country, and which frequently even the
farmers . at the Cape cannot afford to buy, they
generally wear here what are calkd fidd-fooes,
which the country people ufually tii^ke thcm-
,^el^es, in away pecUUar tti them, for the moft
"^ .0 2 part

196 A JOURNEY INTO CAFFRARIA, 1772.
part ©f buffalo leather, fometimes of neats lea
ther, and fometimes, though more rarely, of thc
ftriped hide of the zebra.
It was pleafing to obferve with what cor
diality the Hottentots, as weU thofe who lived
upon the farm, as the ftrangers who had ac
companied us hither, offered each other the
regale of the tobacco-pipe. Having fet them
felves down in a circle, the pipe went from one
to thc other round the whole company. Each
man taking a few large whiffs, at laft gets his
mouth full of fmoke, a fmall part of which he
fwaUows, and puffs out the remainder through
his nofe and mouth.
From the woods of Houtniquas the peafants,
who live near the diftrld of Mufcle Bay, feU
both rough and cut timber, notwithftanding the
length and roughnefs of the road; but from
hence the farmers have nothing elfe to carry
to market, except oxen for flaughter, and but.
ter. If any kind of navigation were fet on foot
either from this coaft or from Mufcle Bay, the
carriage would be eafier, and the commodities,
efpeciaUy the timber, cheaper; but this has as
yet either not been thought of, or elfe, perhaps,
it has not been deemed of any ufe.
Our creft-falkn ferjeant having now in fome
meafure recovered his fpirits, and procured the
loan of a. faddle-horfe here, we refumed our
journey

A JOURNEY INTO CAFFRARIA, 1772. 197
journey on the lotb of November, traveUing up
the country, and towards the mountains, in hopes,
on thc other fide of them, of meeting with our
waggon, and better fortune. Paffing by another
farm, belonging to Bota, we went through two
rivers to Malagafs kraal; and afterwards pro
ceeded up Keureboom's rivier to JackaU's kraal.
At Keureboom's rivier, Houtniquas land termi
nated on this fide, a land abounding in grafs,
wood, and buffaloes. We farther rode over
the mountains, and all along them beyond Keu
reboom's rivier to Peter Jager's farm.
Here we were refrefoed, thlrfty as we were,
with Hottentots fack-milk, as it is called, which,
perhaps, few travellers, unlefs urged by extreme
thirft, wiU be able to prevail on themfelves to
tafte. It is a very acid, cool, and refrefoing
milk, remarkable as weU for the veffel in which
it is kept, as for its great age. I had formerly
imagined, that the four milk of Norrland (in
Sweden) which is feveral months old, was the
oldcft milk in the world, but I now found that
the Hottentots fack-milk might at leaft be con
fidered as grand-mother to the Norrland milk;
The veffel in which It is kept, is the hide of an
antelope {Eland, Capra areas) which is fewed
up clofe together, and hung up againft the wall.
Other hides were faid to be not fo fit for the pur
pofe. In one of thefe facks thus hung up, new
Q 3. milk

.198 A JOtTRNEY INTO CAFFRARIA, 1772.
milk is put, which turns four, and coagulates.
Every day more new mUk Is poured in, whic;h
likewife fopn coagulates, as the faek is not
cleaned out for the fpace of feveral months a.£
leaftjr and frequentiy not for a year or tvvo.
The Hottentots feldom churn any butter ; and
when they do, it is only to befmear themfelves
with. The Maquas Hottentots are faid to churn
in the foUbwing manner: new milk is, poured
intp a leathern bag, .which two Hottentots hol4-
ipg by the ends, foake thjC milk in it frpm one
end to the other, tiU it coagulates... .-
On the llth, we paffed over the very lofty
i^puntains that lead to Lang.e-'kloqf,., in. our wa^
m farmer Matthew Zondag'?, ^atery clouds
hung all pver the mountains, byithe piercing va-
pours of iwhich, though it did not rain, we were
Wfltted quite to the fkwi The Cities of the mo\jn-
tain that we paffed over, were fo?^etimes fo fteep,
and the path- fo narrow, that we did not profs it
but at the hazard of our lives, and fouddered
when we looked down the precipice. The coun
try on the other fide, or Lange Kloof, was very
elevated. In cpmparifon with that frpm whence,
we came, and confequently thp mquntains there
were low, when compared with the dreadfiil ,
height which they exhibited on the other fidp,
towardjs the fea coaft.
'At

A JOURNEY INTO CAFFRARIA, 1772', t^
At this farm they made foap from a ley, pre
pared from the Canna bufh {Salfola aph^lleHjli
which was boiled a long time and infpiffated -,.
when mutton foet was added till the mafs ac
quired a proper confiftence. It was then poured
out, and formed into long fquares.
On the i^thy'we paid a vifit to Peter Frere,
a mari, who was a great hunter of elepl)^nts, and
had made long journies, as far as into the coun
try of the Caffres. Among other particulars, ha
i^iformed us, that the Hottentots cannot count
farther than five in their own language. ;
On the i6th, going from this man's farm here,
callcd.ili§/^a^ (or Envy) on the banks pf Dfep
rivier (or the Deep river) we paffed by another.
iarni of his, near Aapies rivier, in our way to
Klipp-drift, and afterwards; acrofs Krdke^l rivier,i
tb Mathew Streidung's.
Here I faw a great number bf tombs, confift
ing loffmaUheaps^ of ftones. I ftridly enquired
after .their originy but no European could give
me any account of, them. An old Hottpntpt!
informed me, that the inhabitants of this trad
had dkd of ulcers,. In great numbers, which gave
rrie no fmall reafon to conclude, that this place
had been weU inhabited, and even populous, and
that it was the fmaU pox which had made thiS'
extraordinary devaftarion,
O 4 Qn

1»00 A JPVRNEY INTO caffraria, I772,
- On thie ijth, after paffing Peter Nickert's
farm, calkd Onverwagt, we went over Waagt-
toom's rivier, to Henry Kruger's.
- The wild Turkey {Tantalus) which now be
gan to make its appearance, was faid to quit the
country during the Winter, and to return in the
months of September and Odober,
i The Melo'e chichoYei, with its many varieties,
devoured the beans, and other produds of the
gardens. -
¦ In Lange kloof It is yery cold in the winter,
and fnow falls, juft as at the back of Witfek
mountain. s'lt ' :)
On the iSth, we arrived at Thomas Frere's,j
near Kromme rivier (or Crooked river).
The country as far as herei gradually fank,
lower and lower as it proceeded towards the fea-
foore, fo that Lange kloof was far more elevated
thian the country about Kromme rivier.
On the I gth we arrived zt Effebofcb, a fine;.
foreft, in alraoft a plain and level country. It
had rained the whole day, and it continued
pouring during the evening and night, fo that
being wet to the fl<in, we were under the ne
ceffity, four of us, to crouch under the tilt of
our waggon, in expedatipn of better weather in
the morning. The Hottentots, who accom
panied u,s, were obliged to take foelter upder the
waggon, as it was quite impoffible to keep up
any fire.
On

A JOURNEY INTb CAFFRARIA, 1772. 201
On the 20th, fair weather and lun-foine ; but
as we could not get at any dry clothes, we were
obliged to let thofe we had on, dry on our bodies
in the fon. We now rode on to Diep rivier,
Leuwe bofch rhier, and fo on to Zee-ko rivier*
Here we were informed, that lions were fome-f
times feen in the mountains, and that they had
formerly reforted thither in great riumbers ; but
were now moftly extirpated.
The Bread-tree (Zamia caffra) is a fpecies of
palm, which grows on the hiUs, below the moun
tains, in thefe trads. It was of the height and
thlcknefs of a man at moft, very much fpread,
and fingle. I have fometimes feen from one
root, two or three ftems fpring. It is out of the
pith (medulla) of this tree, that the Hottentots
contrive to prepare their bread. For this pur-'
pofe, after fcooping out the pith, they bury it
in the earth, and leave it there for the fpace of
two months to rot, after which they knead it,
and make it into a cake, which. In their ufual
flovenly and filthy manner, they flightly bake in
the embers. I obferved that the tree ftood in
dry fterile places, between ftones, and grew
flowly. At Kromme rivier, a foell-fifo (Solenfiliqua)
was faid to be found in holes in the banks, which
it is impoflibk to catch by digging after It ; but the

a02' A:JOUR.NEY INTO- CAFFRARIA;, 1772,
^e method of fifoing for it was, by running a
flake into it, and thpn drawing it out.
Theridge of m.ountains, , which at Roode zand
we had on our left hand, and afterwards in Langei
kkaf oh the right, and which were cbptinupd
quite from Witfenberg,^'' now terminated .here be
fore It reached the fea-fhore ; whereas the ridge^
pn our left' hand were continued farther, and had
the Carrow plains behind them. . .
The berries pf thp Guarri bufh, (Euclea undu-
hfa) -had a fweet tafte, and were eaten by the
H-ottentbtS. Bruifed -apd fermented, thpy yield
ayinegar, like;tbat made from Poncac.
Thp Craffula tetragonay as being fonaewhat of
an aftrlngent nature; boiled ip milk, in thequan-,
tity* of a handful, is ufed as a remedy for ther
diarirhcea. -.'i Onthe 22</, we arrived at Jacob. Kock's, pear
le mouth of Sea -cow river, not far from the fea
fobrje, a man whom we now vifitjed-for the fecond
time in the cour|e of our journey.
; The 'interior coat of the ftomach of foeppi
dried, pulverized, and. taken inwardly, was faid
tp excite vomiting, and to be ferviceable in
fevers. The blood of a hare was afferted to be a cure
fpr the St. Anthony's fire, if rags dipped into it,
*nd then dried, were wprn upop the body, but
not: applied to thc part affeded.
8 Many

A JOURNEY INTb CAFFRARIA, 177a. aoj
Many people here likewife concurred in af-
foring us, that the blood of a tortoife, ufed ex
ternally, as well as internally, was of the greateft
fervice to fuch as were wounded by a poifoned
arrow. At this place we ftaid feveral days, as weU
with a view to regulate and put in order what we
had already colleded, as to inveftigate all the
neighbourhood, and likewife to give reft and
pafture to our weary and eaiaciated cattle,,
During this time, however, we made a jourr
ney on horfeback to Cabeljauw rivier, and frpm
thence to Camtour's rivier, which is very broa^
and deep, and by which alfo Looxis rivier emp
ties itfelf into the ocean. , -.
Hottentots and Caffres lived proraifcuoufly
near this river, as on the frontier of. the two cpun
tries, the real Caffi-arla beginning feveral mile?*
farther up in the country. -.,,., , -
The Caffres that lived here, were talkf than
the Hottentpts, more undajunted and valiant,
better made, blacker and. ftronger. They wore
round tbeir arms, by ^ay of ornament, rings,
cither of iron or ivory, and were -armpd with
javelins, which they knew much bptter how to
manage than the Hottentots didi The ivory
rings were half an inch, in breadth, and they ge--
neraUy wore feveral of them pn cach arm. Thei?

204 A JXiURNEY INTO CAFFRARIA, I772.
Their dances were extremely curious. Twb
or more of them placing themfelves fide by fide,
or back to back, balanced themfelves on their
toes, ftriking the ground now and then with their
heels ; during which, they moved every llrab,
and almoft every mufcle, efpecially their eyes,
forehead, neck,' head, mouth, and chin, keep
ing time in every motion. The mufic to this
dance was a rough fcreaking kind of finging,
accompanied fometimes with a whiftUrig noife,
to produce which, ?hey drew their lips on one
fide, foewing their teeth, frbm between wbic|i
the Ibund iffued. The womicn kept running
about all the while, finging and jumping to the
fame time, with a continual motion of their head
and Umbs.
In the tip of one ear they had a hole, in which
was ftuck a pbrcupine's quIU.
We were foewn here ear-rings of two different
foapes, made of copper, mixed with filVer,
which they faid they had obtained from nations
living farther up in the country.
Here too we faw bafkets wrought by the Hot
tentots, that were fo tight and clofe, as to hold
milk or water. Botties alfo raade of the blad
ders of the rhinoceros, were ufed for the fame
purpofe. - The Caffres, as well as the Hottentots, have
in each village, or horde, a chkftaln, on whorn they

A JOURNEY INTO CAFFRARIA, 1 772. 20^
they frequently beftow that appellation of captain, ^
and who is their leader in their hunting expedi
tions, and againft their enemies.
Thefe nations, though deftitute of fire-arms,
neverthelefs kiU buffaloes and wild beafts with
their javeUns, called aflagays. When a Caffre has
difcovered a fpot where feveral buffaloes are af-
fembled, he blows a pipe, made ofthe thigh-bone
of a foeep, which is heard at a great diftance. In
confequence of this, feveral of his comrades run
up to the fpot, and furrounding the buffaloes,
and at the fame time approaching them by de
grees, throw their javelins at them. In this cafe,
out of eight or twelve buffaloes, it is very rare
for one to efcape. It fometimes happens, how
ever, that while the buffaloes are running off thc
premifes, fome one pf the hupters, who ftands
in the way of them, is toffed and killed, which,
by the people of this nation, is not much re
garded. When the chace is over, each cuts off
his foare of the game that is kiUed.
Befides the wild animals they may chance to
take In hunting, the Caffres, who inhabit thp
moft delightful meadows that can be imagined,
along the coaft, poffefs large herds of tame horned
cattie. Their oxen are comraonly eafy to be
diftinguifoed frora others, as they cut thera in
the lower part of the neck, in fuch a manner,
that long flips of fkin hang down from it; they
likewife

2o6 -^ii JOURNEY fNVb CAFFRARIA, 'i;^'72.
likewife do the fame with refped to their ears;
and force their horns tb grbw ih various fingular
forms. - The company ^bt fbrmerly frora them
hnd the Hottentots, a great number of cattle, fit
for flaughter, in exchange for tbbacco, brandy,
'glafs beads, and bits of iron ; but now this is
feldom the cafe, atfhbugh this traffic is prohi
bited to aU the farmers.
The Hbttentots-, Inthe fervice of the colonifts^
frequently ufe tobacco-pipes of clay, though
thefe are fo foort, that the bowl of the pipe comes
into contad with their lips. They are foort,
beciufe in the carnage bf them to fo great a
diftance from thP' Cape, they are apt to break.
But btherwife, both Caffres and Hottentots, ufe
a pipe, either made of a long, flendet-, and hol
low ftick, with a hole near one end of it, in
which is put another hollow ftick that Is foort,
and has at top a cylindrical ftone, which is holr
lowed but, and is the bowl that holds the to
bacco; or inftead of the long ftick, an ante
lope's horri, yiz. of the {Capra oryx) riear the
pointed end of which is bored a hole ; in this is
put a foort hollow ftick, and upon that the ftone
bowl. In fm'oking, they ftretch their mouths
over the wide end of the horn, and draw in a
few large Whiffs. The fmoke they keep fome
time in their mouths, and then fwallowing a parti
puff the reft out again. The pipe then paffes on

A JOURNEY INTO CAFFRARIA, I772. 2O7
on to the nexti and fo goes "round the whole
circle. When ftrangers come to a kraal or vU-
kge, they are always treated with the tobacco-
pipe, which circulates in due form from one to
the other.
The Hottentots had boiUng veffels of burnt
clay, of their own making.
Thc beans pf tlie Guajacum afrum, though
a poifonous fonib, are boikd and eaten by the
Hottentots. Their water they keep in the in
teftines of animals. The woraen who carried
their children on their backs, gave thera fuck
under tbci^ arms, by bending- the little creatures
heads down to the breaft.
Sea-horfes (or Sea-cows, Hippopotamus) were
ftill to be feen in great numbers in Camtour' sti
ver; though many of them have been foot of
late, and confequendy their number has beeri
greatly diminlfoed. The proceffus maraUlaris
bf this aniraal-was faid to be an effedual reraedy
for the ftone and gravel. We wounded indeed
feveral of thefe huge beafts, but could not kill
them. ; neither did any^of them come up the fol
lowing night, though we ftaid there till the next
morning. A few Hottentots who had pitched their tent
hefe, for the purpoje of confuming a fea-horfe
that had been foot fome time before, lived in
,.: ' the

208 A JOURNEY INTO CAFFRARIA, I7j^2*
the midft of fuch a ftench, that we could hardly
pafs by them without being fuffocated.
A great number ofthe Caffres accompanied us
back to Sea-cow River, and difplayed various
fpecimens of their arts, probably with a view of
getting fome of our good tobacco, to which they
had taken a particular fancy.
We were told here, that a colonift had been
bitten In the foot fome time before by a ferpent,
ofthe fpecies called Ringhals (or Ringneck) as
he was walking along in the grafs barefoot, as is
the cuftom here, in default of fooes and ftock
ings, which the peafants feldom wear, except when
they go up to Cape Town or to church. I in
formed myfelf accurately of the fymptoms pro
duced by the bite. It feems the man was feve
ral miles diftant from home when he met with
this accident. He then immediately difpatched
his flave to his houfe to bring him a horfe with
all fpeed, on which he went home, after having
bound, up his leg tight, in order to prevent the
poifon from fpreading upwards. On his return
home he grew fo fleepy, that his wife could not
without great difficulty keep him awake. He
alfo became quite blind in an inftant, and re
mained fo for the fpace of a fortnight. His kg
was fwelled to fuch a degree, that the flelh
covered the bandage over, like a fteath, info
much that it could not eafily be removed. An
incifKin

A J0UR,NEY INTO CAFFRARIA, I772. fOg
incifion was made round the wound with a
knife, and the foot wafoed with falt-water. He
drank new mUk coploufly, and that to the quan
tity of feveral pails full in a night, but caft it all
up again. After this the ferpent-ftone was ap
plied to the wound. By means of this he gra
duaUy recovered; but ftiU, thbugh It is now
feveral years fince the accident happened, he has
pains in the part on any change of weather, and
at times the wound breaks completely out
again. The cattle, which conftituted the farmb's
wealth in thefe plains, were fubjed to feveral,
and thofe pecuUar, difeafes.
. The Tung-ziektd Is a difeafe of the catde, in
which veficles or bladders break out on the
tongue, difcharging a thin ichorous raatter. • In
confequence of this diftCitiper the cattle cannot
eat, but grow lean, and fometiraes die. The
farmers are accuftomed to rub the bladders off
with fait.
The Klaw-ziekte is a difeafe, in which the
hoofs of the cattle grow loofe, fo that they can
not walk^ It appears tb proceed from the fum
mer heats, efpeciaUy If thc oxerfKave been driven
brijournies in the day-time. This diftemper is
effie^ed here to be infedious. It Is certain,
that it attacks one ox after another fuccfeffively,
fo that I have feen whok droves afied'e^" with
VOL, I. P it;

210 RETURN FROM CAFFRARIA, I772.
it; .but it feems to me rather to proceed from
fome common and general caufe, than from in
fedion. At firft they are lamed by it, and after
wards become unfit fbr journies. This difeafe,
however, leaves them in general of its own' ac
cord in the courfe of one or two weeks.
I faw fome Chinefe hogS here belonging to
different farmers.
A yellow Chryfomela devoured, and did great
damage to, the culinary vegetables in the gar
dens. , In the beginning of December we direded our
courfe back again, after we had refrefoed our
oxen, and vifited the country farther up than it
has as yet, on that fide of the Cape, been In
habited by Europeans.
In our journey up Langekloef, I obferved af
one farm, the no lefs convenient than advanta
geous contrivances of the hufoandmcn to apply
the rivulets that ran down from the mountains,
to the watering of their vineyards and gardpps.
The water Is always conduded over thefe lands
in a channel to the more elevated parts, from
whence they let down Uttle rivulets or ftreams
between the vines and the beds. Wheri there
is no occafion for watering, thefe ftreamkts are
floppy up with a litde earth. By the fame
methods water was carried to mills, fifo-ponds,
and other places.
On

RETURN FROM CAFFRARIA, 1772. 211
On the 6th we returned to Matthew Zon-
Dao's and on the '^tb arrived at Wolfekraal ; on
the Sth, having croffed Keureboom's Rivier, wc
proceeded to Diep Rivier, and on the lotb
came to Cans Kraal (Goofe Kraal). Behind
the low mountains lay Camenaffie Land.
The fickks for reaping corn were jagged at
the edge like a faw.
The Lycyperdcn carcinomale grew here on the
ant-hills, the brown powder of which was faid to
, tie ufed in cancers.
On the 10/^ we came to Ezelsjagt ; on the
11/^ to Dem rivier (or Thorn river) afterwards
to Groote Dorn rivier, keeping always to the
right, and leaving Attaquas kloof to the left.
On the i^th we croffed the barren Carrow
plain, and paid a vifit to Gert van Nimwegen.
The foeep here ate the tender leaves of the
Mimofa -nilotica, ^
The Meloe cichorei did great daraage to the
apple-trees and other vegetables In the gardens,
the leaves of which they confuraed entirely.
A Mefembryanthemum, with a white flower, was
chewed by the Hottentots, for the purpofe of
quenching their thirft, after It had been fuffered
to putrify, and been properly prepared.
A fpecies of Coccus, calkd Harpuys, that was
found on the branches of trees, was faid to prove
mortal to foeep.
P 2 On

2T4 R'BTTTRN EROM CAFFRARIA, 1772.
On the everiirtg ofthe i^tb, we arrived at
Gert Clute's farm, at Slange rivier (Snake
river) which lay fo deep in the cleft ofa moun
tain, that I footild fuppofe no one would exped
ro find a habitation there,
AU this trad of land was exceedingly dry and
rineagre, the hufbandman's cattle confifting only
of foeep.
On the flat rocks that projeded from the fides
pf the mountains, we obferved a great number
of tigers, which were more common here, thari
I have ever feen them in any other place.
The foil was a clay, impregnated with fait ;
and every where on the hillocks, and on the banks
of the river, the fait was cryftalized by thc heat
of the Tun, in like manner as I had obferved it
to be' on the hills near the Cape,
Wehad now a dreadful, long, dry and barren
plain to crofs, which Is fcorching hot in] the day
time, and which. In confequence, its want of
water could afford us no place for baiting. We
theref(*e employed a great part of the day in
baiting, and in the evening, when it began to be
a littk cooler, in refuming our journey, wc
paffed feveral large rivers, the banks of which
were covered with wood, but which were novf
quite dried up; and at length we arrived In the
morning to deferted houfe, fituated on thc fide
of the mountains to the left« Here

return from caffraria, 1772. 213
Here we faw quickfet hedges of the Aloe
fuccotrina. On the i^th and iStb we continued our jour
ney, proceeding to the farms of fVelgevunden,
Watervall, and Muyfen kraal.
On the 17//& we came to a farm belonging to
one Smidt; and on the xSth, after croffing the
mountains, we went through Platte kloof.
As we proceeded farthpr on the 20th and 2 xft,
we paffed feveral farms in our way to the com
pany's poft at Riet valley.
While we baited here, we paid another vifit
to Grootvader's bofch, where various forts of trees
are felled for the ufe of the company. I hoped
now to find feveral trees in bloffom ; but the
feafon was not yet far enough'advanced.
The Calodendrum, however, was then In t^of^
fom, the honeyed juice of which I perceived
beautiful butterflies fucking, without my being
able to reach either the one or the other. But
by the help of my gun, which I loaded with fraall
(hot, and fired in among the trees, I got fome
branches with bloffoms on them.
On the z^th we croffed Breede-rivier and Ri
vier Zonder end (or the River without end) which
latter is very deep, and therefore has a ferry for
the accommodation of travellers.
Continuing our journey on the 2S,th and 26tb,
we paffed the company's pOft at Tiger book, and
thpn proceeded along the Rivier Zonder end, to
P 3 another

214 RETURN FROM CAFFRARIA, 1772,
another poft of the company's, Zoete mek'is
valley,. The country was already grown very arid, in
confequence ofthe fcorching fommer heats and
the high and drying winds.
Pforalea pinnata (Pinnwcrtel) was a plant, of
which the country peopk in many places com
plained, as being the worft weed In the gardens,
on account of the roots ftriking deep and firm in
the ground, and confequendy being difficult to
eradicate. A blue Chryfomela devoured and damaged th©
corn. In a diagonal diredion zcrc^i-Platte kloof, lay
the Elephant's {Olyfant's) warm bath, which I
had not now time to vifit.
• 'The increafe of the fummer heat had caufed
the flies to multiply in fuch numbers, as to be
even extremely troublefome at moft ofthe farms.
In order to diminifo the number of them in the
houfe, fmall boughs were hung up to the roof,
and fprinkled feveral tiraes in the day with new
milk ; and when the flies had fettled on them In
great numbers, a long bag was fet under them,
into which they were foaken down. The bag
was then twlfted round, fo that the flies could
not efcape.
The Secfetary-bird, which is a great deftroyer
pf ferpents, after having trod them under his

RETURN FROM CAFFRARIA, 1772, SI^
feet, and beat them with his pinions, fo that they
cannot hurt him, devours them. This bird eats
not only flefo, but roots alfo.
Wild chefnuts {Brabejum ftellatum) are fo ea
gerly devoured by the wild boars, that they fel
dom or ever leave one on the ground to fpring
up, unlefs it foould chance to faU between ftones.
On the 2']tb we arrived at the warm bath of
Zwarte Berg, or what is calkd the bath agter de
berg (I. e. behind the mountain).
The fpring arifes from a hillock at the foot of
the mountain, to the weftward of it ; and chiefly
from two fources. The water is moderately
warm, and depofits a great quantity of a light
yeUow ochre at the bottom of the channels in
which it runs. The hillock confifts of an iron
ore or a ferruginous lava ; and is heavy, black,
foining, of a very clofe texture, and ftrikes fire
with fteel. The very road is black, owing to
the duft of the broken ore, which Ues upon it
like foot. The water has a chalybeate or inky
tafte, but by no means fulphureous. It became '
black on mixing Peruvian bark or blue vitriol
with it, and white with fugar of lead. The
patients here ufe the water both for bathing in,
and at the fame time for drinking, though with
out any regulations or proper diet. The water
is carried by a channel from its fource into a
boarded hut, where there are a few fteps, on
P 4 which

21.6 I^ETURN FROM CAFFP.ARIA, 1772,
which the patient may fit as deep in the water as
he chufes. The company has caufed a brick
houfe to be buUt here, the care of which they
have left to an old tnan. The few rooms that
are here for the accommodation of the patients,
are parted off by means of fail-cloth into mapy
fmall cabins ; fomP of the patients live in their
own tents, or waggons, and others lodge at the
farm that is fituate at the bottom of the hiU.
The bath is ufed the whole year throughout, but
moft in fummer, or from Auguft to February.'
The mountajn above it is called Z-warte-berg (or
tJie Black-mountain).
On the 28/^ we left this place, and cam^e to a
farm belonging to one Badenhorst, where they
were extremely bufy in threfoing out their wheat.
[Barns for laying up the corn are neither to be found,
nor indeed are they wanted in a country, in.which
at this fcafpn of the year, there Is nothing tp be
apprehended from rain, fo that the farmers can
keep their corn in a ftaclc in the open ajr. The
'great heat makes the ftraw fo brittie, that it
Crumbles to pieces, and therefore cannojt , be
touched at any other time than in the morning
and evenipg, when the air is become fomewhat
CQol, For threfoing, they prepare in the open
air, a plain apd level fpot, which they fence ip
^Ith a low and roynd wall of clay. Here they
fcatter the porn lopfely abput, and thep turp in
a number

RETITRII FROM CAFFRARIA, I772, 217
a number of horfes, either loofe, or, as is more
frequently the cafe, joined together in a team,
^n order to tread out the grain. In thc center of
this area ftands a man, who holds the foremoft
horfe by a halter, and on the outfide of it ano
ther raan, who, with a long whip, drives the
horfes continually round, and keeps them in a
hard trot. Thus the ftraw is trodden quite to
chaff, and rendered totally unfit for thatching.
In this manner, half a do?,en men, with a few
horfes, are able to threfo out clean 4n one day
120 bufoels of wheat. Oxen are feldom ufed
for threfoing, as their dung would fppil thc
corn. Having left this place, we croffed Booter-^river,,
where we faw the fea-foorc; and paffing by little
Houthoek, went over great Houthoek and Hotten
tot Holland's kloof. This mountain is very high,
and on the Cape fide there is a road over it, that
on account pf its precipices has a moft dreadful
appearance. This, and thp rpad however, that
gops over Roode Zand, are alraoft the only, at
feaft, the moft common roads, by which a^l the
inhabitants .of the country muft pafs with their
large and heavy loaded waggons. At the foot
of the. mountain lie feveraj pretty farms, ¦ which,
any more thtei ,the mouptaips and the fea-foore,
i did not lea^e unvifite^. Here

2l8 THE CAPE, 177.3.
Here we kept New year's day, and, together
with almoft all the inhabitants of the neighbour
hood, went down to the fea-fide to pafs the whole
day in mirth and pkafure.
Here we found thrown up by the forge, the
Trumpet-grafs (Fucus buccinalis) In which they
blew like a trumpet.
Finally, having fpent a whok day in croffing
the very level and extenfive fandy plain that lies
between Hottentot Holland and the Cape, we ar
rived at the town on the 2d of January 1773.
My firft care after my return to the town, was
not only to look over and put Into order the col-
ledions of animals, plants, and feeds, that I had
made during my four mopths journey ; but like-
wife to get them ready for being fent to Europe
by the homeward bound foips. Therefore, after
having well dried the feeds, fpread out the plants,
and glued them on imperial paper,' packed up
the birds and infeds in cafes, planted the live
trees, and laid up the bulbous roots in boxes, I
fcnt confiderable quantities of cach to the bo
tanical gardens at Amfterdam and Leyden, by
feveral of the homeward-bound Dutch veffels.
What I had ftiU remaining, I divided into dif
ferent parcels, and packed up fo^^iy patrons
and friends in Sweden, efpeciaUy the Archiaters
and Chevaliers LiNNiEUs and B^Eck, Profeffor
Bergiuj

TME CAPE, 1773.1 219
Bergius and Dr. Montn ; thefe I had an op
portunity of fending in Swedifo foips by the fa
vor of feveral naval ofiicers who honoured mc
with their friendfoip.
The following raonths I paffed as I had done
the laft year, in botanizing in the environs of the
Cape, and in making foort excurfions into the
country, as well as in examining and arranging
my coUedions, and in making defcriptions of
fuch of them as were new and before unknown.
M. SoNNERAT, a Frenchman, who, being an
exceUent draughtfman, had accompanied M.
(ZoMMER^ON In that capacity in his extenfive
travels round the world, and to many different
parts of India, was lately arrived at this town
in a French veffel from the Ifle of France. I
had foon an opportunity of making an acquain
tance with him at the houfe of M. Berg, Se
cretary of the Police, and more particularly
while we refided together at this gentieman's villa
in the neighbourhood of Conftantia, where we
remained a few weeks for the fake of botanizing,
and of foooting a great number of beautiful Cape
birds for the cabinets of the curious in Europe.
Among the many excurfions we made toge
ther, we refolved in the middle of January to
vifit Table-mountain, and examine what might be
the produce of its fummits at this feafon of the
year. Each of us was furnifoed with fire-arms,
provifions,

S20' THE CAPE, 1773.
prpvifions, paper, and other neceffaries, which
were carried by two flaves whom we had hired
in the town for this purpofe. Aft three o'clock
in the morning we quitted our abode, and af-
ccnded the foot of the m.ountain before the fun
could rife, and by its fcorching rays render the
journey too fatiguing to us. At a littie after
eight we reached its fummit, where it was mo
derately and agreeably cool. We were alfo rCr
compenfed for our troubk by a great nunnber of
rare plants, efpeciaUy of the Orchidea, as they are
called, which I never afterwards could meet with
aeither here at other feafons, or indeed at all in any
other mountain. Among thefe the Orchis graflf
Sflora, or Difa nnifiora (Ber.gii Plantte Capenfes)
was confpkuous by its beautiful flowers; of thp
Serapias tabularis we fouind only pne fpeclmen;
tbe Serapias melaleuca was diftiiaguifoed by Its
'.black and white flowers, the moft .uncommon in
nature ; and with great difficulty,- ahd at ,tbe
hazard of my life, I got for the firft and laft
.^irae the blue Difa longicernis, whkh is as beaur-
,4iful, as it Is fingular in its form. This laft pknt
grep in one fpot only, on a fteep rock, and fo
high up, that in order to come at it after wehad
clambered up tbe fide of tbe rock as higli as we
could, I was Qihlaged to get upon the fooulders
of M. SoNNERATy w,hen, .witJi a long &kk, i
heat down five of thrfe plants, the .only fpe-
8 eimens

THE CAPE, 1773. Sit
eimens that were then in bloom. M. Son-
ne'rat, who befbre had not had an opportunity
of coUeding as many plants at the foot of the
mountain as I had, made in this one day onl)', a
coUedion of 300 different i'pecies ; but was fo
fingularly unfortunate, though he had brought
with hirii three pair of fooes for this excurfion, as
to return to town barefooted. The number of
foarp angular ftones which are rolled down frotn
the mountairi, *and lie both ac its foot and im
the clefts through which the road goes, not only
tear the foles, but alfo the upper-leathers of
fooes ; fo that your thin French pumps are by
lio means foited for excurfions upon the moun
tains, which require fooes made of waxed ka-
ther with thick foles.
Table-mountain has acquired its name from Its
appe'arlrig from the town and harbour, as if it
were cut fmooth and level like a table. When
one is arrived on the top ofit. It appears pretty
even in front, but on the other fide it goes off
in gradual inequalities, Uke very broad ftepsi
In the clefts on the top there are feveral ftreams,
which run down to the town and its environs,
and fopply them with good, frefo, and cool wa
ter. I could not difcover any vifible fpring, nor
any lake with fifo in it, as fome pretend there
are; but aU the water that was there, was col
leded pardy from rain, and partiy from the
clouds.

222 THE CAPE, 1 773.
clouds, which diffufe themfelves over the moun
tain, without faUing down below in rain. On
the fummit were feveral mouldered and decayed
ftones, of a ftrange appearance, feeming as if
thpy had been ereded by art.
The height of Table Mountain is 3350 feet,
or, according to the calculation of De la Caille,
3353 ^'^^ ^t the weftern angle, which Is the
loweft. The Devil's Mountain borders upon
this to the eaft, and is thirty feet lower, though
on account of its peak it appears to be fome
what higher. Table Mountain conftltutes, with
the Devil's and L/uk'j Mountains, one mountain,
and is conneded with them at the bottom, though
it is feparated from them by confiderable vales
at the top.
One may afcend and defcend Table Mountain
in feveral places, in front, behind, and at thc
fides, all which paths I reconnoitred this and the
foUowing years, in the fifteen/times that I went
up to the fummit in the courfe of my three years
abode in the neighbourhood.
In front the mountain is acceffibk only by
the large cleft, which is diftindly feen almoft in
the middle ofthe raountain. This afcent Is the
moft ufed, notwithftanding that it is the fteepeft,
and particularly near the furamit, where it grows
at the fame time very narrow, having, as it were,
perpendicular waUs on both fides. The fpot of
thc

THE CAPE, 1773. 2tJ
the mountain, below which the town itfelf is
fituated, is about a third part of the height of
the whole mountain; which gradually fwells,
from gentiy floping hills, overgrown with thick
ets, into fteeper eminences, covered with ftones
that have rolled down from the fummit ; here
the cleft begins, which at firft is about fifty or
fixty paces broad, but by degrees is contraded
to fix or feven, and at thp top is almoft choaked
up with ftones of an enormous bulk. High up
in this cleft I found pieces of a fine loofe fand-
ftone of various fizes, which, when rolled lower
down, crumbled away into fmall gravel and
fand. Table Mountain, as well as the Devil's and
Lion's, and other mountains, have their fixata or
layers in common with thofe of Europe. The
uppermoft ftrata are quite horizontal, but the
lower ones lie in an oblique pofition. At top
the rock appears to be a kind of fand-ftone, or
lava; the middle ftratum trapp, and the lower
moft flate. On the top of Table Mountain
there are found both diffevered ftones, and firm
,rpcks projeding from the furface, which have
mouldered away confiderably, not only at the top
and fides, but likewife at bottom, fo that large
cavities are formed in them, Thefe fubftances
are thus decayed not only by water that has
been left in their cavities, but evidently by thc
very

224 THE CAPE, l'773.
very air alfo, the moiflxire of which penetrates
into the minute and fobtle crevices of thefe
ftones, and diffolves them.
The large ftones which have rolled down, and
He on the hills at the foot of the mountain, and
Bave a very ancient appearance, are a kind of
trapp, which have excavations in them of differ
ent magnitudes, apparently formed in them by
fomething that has undergone a gradual de
cay. Thefe ftones, as well the large as thg
iriiaH, have frequeritly pieces of quartz both in
the infide of them and on their forface. Which
evidently foews that thefe latter have not been
formed there, but were inclofed in them, as
they are nbt concreted with the ftony matrix,
which is tolerably hard, but have a fmooth and
polifoed forface.
The rock, in the loweft ftrata pf which the
mountains are formed. Is of a loofe texture, of
a dark- colour, and may be fcratched with a
knife. It is fometimes of a Ughter, or of an
afo-colour. Both air and water are capable of
corroding it, fo that lamlnse ofa hatid's breadth
appear ftanding ered on their edge like a cock's
comb cryftaL Thefe lowermoft beds of flate,
which are covered on the outfide with mould
and grafs, fometimes conftltute half the height
of the mountain. And thefe' beds run from
fouth to north, not abfotdtcly In a horizontal diredion.

THE CAPB, 1773. 225
diredion, but funk to the weftward, and rifing
to thc eaftward, with mouldered and foarp-edged
laminae, which are continued quite below the
furface of the watery as is plainly feen by the
, rocks in the fea, as well thofe that are above, as
thofe that are under water;
The old hofpital having been for a long time
in a ruinous condition, as well as of an Incon
venient ftrudure, the Company had refolved to
build a new one on a larger fcale, and in a more
convenient fituation; for Which purpofe proper
artlftsj with the neceffary tools and materials,
had been fent from Holland, The fpot for
ei^eding this edifice on was chofen at the eaftern
end of the town, between Table Mountain and
the citadel, where it would be expofed to the fun
and wind. The ground-^ftone was laid by Go*
vernor Van Plettenberg, in the month of
November of the preceding year; and the
%uilding nbw went bn every day, though but
very flowly; a circumftance bWing to the in-
terefted condud of thbfe who were appointed
to foperintend it, who not only gained by pro*
trading the work, but alfo employed part of the
workmen, as well as of the materials, on their
own private buildings.
Two violent winds chiefly prevail on this
fouthernmoft pronmptory of Africa. The one
blows boifteroufiy aimoft every day in fommer,
vol. I. Q, which

226 THE CAPE, 1773.
which is caUed the Good Seafon {Goede
Mmffon) J the other in winter, which is calkd
the Bad Seafon {^aade Mouffon). The. fouth-
Paft wind is vioknt, and attended with dry and
very fine weather; the north-weft is terapeftu-
ous, and, for the moft part, accompanied with
foowers of rain. The former brings foort and
violent gales, following clofe upon each other,
which often increafe to that degree of force,
as to blow up not only duft and fand, but alfo
gravel and fmall pebbles into the face of fuch
as are expofed to it, who, being neither able to
fee nor go forwards, muft either ftand ftlU, or
elfe throw themfelves down upon the ground.
On fuch occafions ftrangers frequently exhibit
ridiculous fcenes, their hats, wigs, or hair-bags»
being carried away by the wind the whok kngth-
of the ftreets. . Not only boats but fmall craft,
are likewife fometimes overfet in the road, and
the people in them loft, as was three times thep
cafe this year; in confequence ,of which, when
the wind is high, no boat wUl venture to go to
or from the foips.
The fouth eaft wind fprings up, for the moft;
part towards noon, after a fine warm, and calm
morning ; about eleven, twelve, or one. o'clock,,
it rifes higher, and keeps up till three,., four, or
five o'clock, or even later, frequently leaving tlie
cveniKg ferene and agreeable. Thus the morn.-.
9 ing

THE CAPE, 1773. 227
ing may be very warm and require Ught cloath-
ino's but on the increafe of the wind, the air
begins to feel colder, and frequently one finds it
"neceffary to put on a great-coat. Thefe fudden
changes are the caufe that one is. very liable to
catch cold here, and that the inhabitants are in
general fubjed to rheumatic pains. This violent
wind, though in fome refpeds it renders the
fummer lefs agreeable than it would be other-
wife, yet ftill it makes the heat more tole
rable. Before the fouth-eaft wind begins to blow, the
clouds are commonly feen gathering upon the
mountains ; and Table Mountain in particular,
covered at the top with a heap of light clouds,
appears as if It wore a periwig. On the wind's
increafing, thefe clouds are feen precipitating
down the fore-part of the mountain, without
producing any rain. Sometimes, however, it
wIU happen, though feldora, that the wind foaU
blow, and no clouds lie on the raountain : like-
wife, that all the clouds being diffipated on the
fore part of the mountain, the wind fliaU con
tinue with clear and fine weather. The fouth-
eaft wind Is a low wind, driving from the moft
part albng the ground. The north-weft wind
alfo, is foraetimes obferved to drive the higher
clouds in a diredion contrary to that In which
the fouth-eaft carries the lower ones, and the
0^2 birds

228 THE CAPE, 1773,
birds are feen flying in a calm atmofphere be
tween thefe two contrary currents of air.
In winter time the north-weft and fouth-weft
winds prevaU, which bring rain, and are dan
gerous for the foipping that lie in the road.
Thefe winds change in AprU, wheri by de
grees the fouth-eaft ceafes, and is fucceeded by
the north-weft. So that AprU and May are
months of intermiffion, as well as Auguft and
September, and, on the days when it does not
rain, the moft pleafant In the whok year.
In January and the months following, the
road is the moft reforted to by foips from Eu
rope and the Eaft Indks, for the purpofe of
taking in refrefoments at a place where the air
is whokforae, and the moft plentiful fupplies to
be had of wine and all kinds of provifions.
When a foip has anchored in the road, nobody
from the town is fuffered to go on board of her
for the firft three days, under a penalty of forty
rixdoUars. The Cape may with propriety be ftiled an
inn for traveUers to and from thc Eaft Indies,
who, after feveral months fail, may here get re
frefoments of aU kinds, and are then about half
way to the place of their deftination, whether
homeward or outward bound.
Strangers that arrive here from Europe, arc
fometimes attacked with a diarrhoea, occafioned by,

THE CAPE, 1773. 229
by the many vegetables and fruits with which
this country abounds, but which is not of fo
dangerous a nature here as at Batavia.
Such ftrangers as are defirous of fettUng in
this country, are at Uberty here,, as in Holland,
to get their livelihood in what manner they
pleafe or are abk, either by a handicraft bufinefs
or commerce, or, as is moft frequently the cafe,
by both.
It is a general cuftom in this country to fleep
an hour or two in the afternoon, at the time that
the heat is the greateft.
At table the uppermoft feat is never given to
any of the guefts ; but the hoft and hoftefs are
always feated at the upper end;, one on each
fide of the table, and the company all around.
The hoft always advances towards the ftranger
who is his gueft, and taking hira by the hand
enquires after his health. If the perfon comes
on horfeback or in a carriage, he is invited to
alight and walk in. The lady of the houfe does
not rife, but falutes him by a nod of the
head. The French were at this time in very little
cftimation, on the one hand, becaufe they gene
raUy came without ready money, and were ob
liged to trade on credit, or elfe with bills of
exchange ; and on the other, becaufe the African
colonifts feared, that if a war broke out, thefe
O3 ftrangers

230 THE CAPE, 1773.
ftrangers would affift In taking the place; in
which refped they thought themfelves more
fecure with refped to the Englifo, with whom
they were in alliance. A French officer, though
dreffed to the beft advantage, and frequently
wearing a ftar on his breaft, as a mark of hia
merit and his king's favour, had but littk re
fped paid him ; whereas an Englifo mate of a
foip, with his hair about his ears, was much
efteemed on account of his being flufo of monpy,
and of his nation's being in alliance with Hol
land. Yet it was the French who moft enriched
the Cape merchants, as, pn account of the cre
dit they took, they were pbliged to pay more
than others, and at thc fame time had occafion
for a greater quantity of merchandize, not only
for their foips, but alfo for their garrifon in the
Ifle of France.
Thp coins current here come either from
Europe or the Eaft Indies.' The moft coramon
from Europe, which is here always termed the
Mother Country (Vadfrlmd), are ducatoons,
folUings, and doits (Duyten). Ducatoons,
either old or new, are, like every other fpecies
of cpin, of more value here than In Europe,
in general 25!. per cent, more, that is to fay,
twelve fkeUings, or feventy-two ftivers. Thp
flhllUngs are feldom any thing more than 7^^
kaP^es, fuch ais In lipU^nd are worth five ftivers and

THE CAPE, 1773. 2']t
and a half, Two-pences (dubb/lljes) and fingle
pence {or ftivers) are fcarce; as alfo are ducats,
and the gold coin called riders {gcude reijers).
Dutch gilders are hardly ever feen. The Cape
gilders are imaginary, and reckoned to thofe that
receive falaries, at the rate of i6 ftivers cach,
A rixdoUar is valued at eight foillings, and a ducat
at eighteen. Spanifo piaftres {Spanfe matten) are
wiUingly taken at the rate of nine Dutch fkellings.
From "Various places of the Eaft-Indies, rupees
of different kinds are imported, which are equi
valent to half a rixdoUar, and pafs current with
every body. No money is coined, or fuffered
to be coined in this country.
The kind of corn generally cultivated In this
country Is wheat, and it richly repays the la
bour of the hufoandman. Small quantities have
been exported to the Indies for the ufe of the
better fort of peopk there ; but the voyage has
been looked upon as too long, and the freight
too expenfive to fend any . to Europe, till the
preceding and this prefent year, when fome has
been fent to HoUand, where it has been found
to be much heavier than the European wheat,
Poland, the granary of Holland, having foe
feveral years paft. been vifited by war, and partly
laid wailite, and tbe crops haying been in ge
neral bad all over Europe, the Dutch Eaft In
dia Company determined to fend fome fmall
Qj. yeffejs

232 THE CAPE, 1773.
veffels to the Cape to import wheat; and laft
year they fent one veffel, and this year two fri
gates. For a freight of wheat, the farmer is
paid 18 rixdoUars. A freight contains ten mud-,
des, or about 20 bufoels.
Rye is fcarcely ever fovvn here, except in fmall
quantities for pleafure, or elfe by fome farmer,.
who chufes to ufe the ftra\y for thatching, inftead
of the Reftio dichotomus.
The olive-forub {Oleo Europaa) was com
mon on tbe hills near the town, as well as in
other places. The lea-ves are narrower than in
the European olive ; and the fruit feldpm comes
to maturity. For this reafon it Is not ufed for
preffmg Pil out of it, but frequentiy as an aftrln
gent In diarrhoeas. In other refpeds, this forub
fo nearly refembles the European, that it cannot
poffibly be of a different fpecies,
, At the farms and ylllas near the town, Euro
pean trees are frequentiy planted for the fake of
ornament and foade, fuch as the oik, chefnut,
pine, myrtie, leraon, and orange trees, which, when
in bloffom, diffufed the moft fragrant odour.
The fummer in Europe has a much more
agreeable appearance, with its leaf-bedecked
¦woods and fiowery meads, which after a forlorn
and dreary wipter, fo infinitely cheer our eyes,
than it does here, where no meadows are feen j
and the woods are full of prickles, and of a mp-.
lancholy

THE CAPE, 1773. 933
lancholy afped. In the meadows in Europe the
ground is covered fo thick with grafs, as to appear
like a carpet ; but here thc ftalks of the grafs are
at a confiderable diftance from each other, and
exhibit in the intervals betweep them, the bare
and fandy ground.
As there are no forefts In the vicinity of thp
town, except the few fmaU ones that ftand high
up in the clefts of the mountains, wood, which
is ufed in the kitchen only, is both dear and
fcarce. Almoft all the fuel ufed here. Is brought
in by the flaves, who obtain it by digging up
the roots of Protea, and lopping off the branches
of the underwood. Of this brufowopd, together
with thp roots, the flave makes two feparate
faggots, and tying one to one end, and the other
to the other end of a ftick, carries them home op
bis fooulders. Two of thefe faggots, to make
which It Is a day's work, fell for two fkeUings.
Every flave is obliged to eapn for his mafter,
two fkeUings daily, which makes about 80 rix-
dollars in a year ; fo that in a few years the maf
ter gets his purchafe-money back again, though
the flave, by fuch a heavy rental, cannot obtain
the remiffion pf any part of his flavery, which
increafes with his years, apd is cemented with
bis blood.
Tamarinds, on account of the acid they con
tain*, were fometimes ufed inftead pf vinegar, in
this

234 THE CAPE, 1773.
this manner : the pulp of them was rubbed on
beef, cut into thin flices, which, after being dried
a little In the fun, were fried in a frying-pan, and
were very tender, and well-tafted.
Cauliflowers, which in the gardens of rhe Cape,
and efpecially In Rbhben-ifiand, that Ues juft be
fore the harbour, are brought to fuch perfedion,
as not to be equalled in any other part of the
world, are frequently pickled In vinegar, with
Cayenne pepper (or Capficum) and afterwards
eaten with meat by way of fallad.
Some ofthe farms near the Cape, had fences
made of pieces of iron-ore (Tzer-klippen) which
were found in the environs.
The Ardopus echinatus (Ziekte-trooft) a low
umbelliferous plant without ftalk, and even with
the furface of the ground, grew in comraon near
the town, on the clay hiUs below the mountains.
On account of the hard prickles it bore, as well
on its leaves as on its ripe feeds, it was a terribk
plague, efpecially to the flaves, who go bare
foot, and are frequently wounded by it.
One of the foips belonging to the fleet' that
arrived at this tirae from Holland, brought the
corpfe of the governor Rheede van Ouds
horn, who died on his paffage hither. The
admiral's foip eame into port with her colourst
lowered half-way, to fignify its lofs. The corpfe
was brought on foore, with all the pomp ufuat at

the CAPE, 1773. 23J
at the interment of a governor ; the bells tolled,
and the foips in the road fired a gun every mi
nute, which did not a littie contribute to the
pomp and awfulnefs of the ceremony. Before
the corpfe, two led hories went in proceffion,
followed by the fceptre, and the armorial bear
ings of the deceafed ; and '^fter it came trum-
^ts, kettle-drums, foldiers, and burghers, on
horfe-back, commanded by the major. By the
death of this gentleman, whofe favour I had
previoufly acquired at Amfterdam^ I fuftained
a great lofs, with regard to the powerful fupport
and affiftance which he had given me reafon to
exped from him. In his capacity of governor,
in my excurfions into the country.
During my ftay in town, I vifited feveral
tiraes the Leeuwve-kop (Lion's head) a mountain
that ftands to the weftward pf Table Mountain,
and rifes to an almoft inacceffible peak; from
this peak it runs out in a long floping ridge,
and terminates in a curved eminence, called the
Leeuwe-fiaart (Lion's tail). Below its peak, the
Leeuwe-knp is fo fteep in one place, that If one
wifoes to afcend to it, a cord muft be faftened
to the rock, by the help of which, one muft
clamber up by a fide that is almoft perpendicular.
The uppermoft layer I found to confift of a loofe
red fand,' which crumbles away, and falling
down, leaves great cavities behind it. On the
very

2^6 THE CA?E, 1773.
very top of the peak, where a perpetual guard Is
placed for the purpofe of difcovering the ap
proach of foips, there is a fmall hut, with a fire-
' place in it for drefllng provifions ; three guns,
6ne«of which is fired for every foip that is fcen ;
and a flag-ftaff to hoift a flag on. By the num
ber of guns fired, government is immediately
informed whether it is a fingle foip or a fleet that
approaches. In the evening, the fentinel goes
down to his houfe, which is fituated in the cleft
between Table Mountain and the Lion's head.
When the fojips that are deferied, approach, a
flag is hoifted on the Lion's back {Leeuwe-rug),
and when they enter the harbour, the colours
are hoifted on the citadel, till they have faluted
it. If any foip foould come within fight of the
Cape, and afterwards pals by it, the flag on the
Lion's back js ftruck, as foon as it difappears.
The flag that Is hoifted varies every month, and
is like a watch-word on the field of battle ; for
the colour of the flag is appointed by the di
redors in Europe, and made known only to the
refpedive regencies at Batavia and the Cape,
and in feakd letters to the captains of the out
ward and homeward bound foips. Thus the
captains of the foips may dlfcover, if on a fod-
den eruption of war, the Cape is fallen into the
hands of the enemy, and in fuch cafe, keep away
from the harbour.^- In time of war, when any
grea?

the CAPE, 1773. 237
great fleet is defcried making its approach, the
whole colony through the Interior parts may be
fummoned with the greateft expedition, by the
firing of guns, the hoifting of flags, and the
kindling of fires, which are difpofed at certain
places, and diftributed at fuch diftances, that;
thefe fignals may always be feen or heard from
one place to the next.
Robben Ifland is fituated at the entrance of the
harbour, about four miles from the town. The
foips that run into the harbour muft always pafe
by this ifland, which then hoifts the Dutch flag.
Sometimes, when a ftrong fouth-eaft wind pre
vents the foips from entering, they anchor befide
it. This ifland was formerly the refort of a great
number of feals, whence it alfo derives its narae ;
but now thefe aniraals having been driven away
from it, it is become the retreat of chameleons,
quails, and prifoners for Ufe (calkd here ban
ditti), who are obUged to colled every day on the
fea-foore a certain quantity of foells, which are
burned to make lime, for the buildings ereded
by the company. Thefe prifoners for life, are
not only black flaves who have been guilty of
mlfdemeanours, but alfo Europeans, who have
committed heinous crimes.
Though the Lutherans in this town were nu
merous, yet they had not a church of their own.
The bigotted zeal ofthe Calviniftic clergy had
hitherto

238 THE CAPE, 1773.
hitherto been able to prevent fo beneficial an in-
Ilitution from taking place, as that of ari edifice
to the glory of thkt God, whom they themfelves
profeffed to worfoip, and for the ufe and con
venience of their feUow-citizens, The Luthe
rans were thus under the neceffity of performing
their public worfoip in a loft, which they had
fitted up for that purpofe. Still, however, they
had not an opportunity of celebrating divine' fer
vice oftener than when any Swedifo foip arrived,
the chaplain of which underftood and fpoke the
German language. On fuch occafions alfo the
holy communion was celebrated, and the money
that was put into the plate, became the property
of the_ minifter.
The foips now failed in different fquadrons
fucceffively for Europe, a few only at a time, as
in time of peace may be done with fafety. On
the other hand. If peace is at all dubious, or
a war breaks out, they go a great many toge
ther, in two or three fleets.
It wiU fometiraes happen, and that even by
permiflion, that a foldier and a failor foaU change
places, and fucceed each other in their refpedive
fervices. Before a foip fails, the account is made out
of every man on board, which accounts are fent
wilh the foip, or elfe may be taken out at the
pay-office by fuch as chufe fo to doj fo that
every

THE CAPE, 1773. 239
every one may know what Is due to him of his
pay. If any one fettles in a place, and gets
other employment in the fervice, he may take
up his pay every third or fourth month, but the
guilder is then ellimated at fifteen or fixteen ftivers
only, fo that the lofs is confiderable. But If he
chufes to kave it untouched till the end of the
year, his account is made out in the month of
Auguft, when the books are clofed, which ac
count he may negotiate at eighteen, nineteen,
and foraetimes twenty ftivers per guilder, and
thus lofe littie or nothing. A bUl of this kind
is like a bill of exchange, for which the Dutch
Eaft-India Company gives the fuU value in
Europe, and which, in the mean time, is readily
accepted by merchants, and others who want to
rerait money to Europe. Otherwife, as 25
per cent, is gained on all money exported from
Holland, In like manner 25 per cent, is loft
on aU money that is carried back in fpeck to
HoUand. The effeds of the failors and foldiers who
have been taken into the hofpital, and died there,
are fold by audion, and chiefly at that period,
when the greateft number of patients is brought
in, and when the greateft number dies. Thc
money Is laid out on their interment. In gene
ral the corpfe Is fewed up Ir> a cloth, and carried
out ifl a hearfe; but if the effeds of the de
ceafed.

240 THE CAPE, 1773.
ceafed, after the beft part of them have been
embezzled, ftill amount to a fmall fum of moneyi
a coffin is beftowed upon him Of ten rixdoUars
value. If what the defund has left behind him
amounts to ftill more moneys It is expended in
wine at the funeral ; and great Care is always
taken, that nothing foould be left for his rela
tions and heirs. In general at fuch audions the
whole chefl;, opened, but not always thoroughly
examined, is fold at a venturci
The Cape lobfter {Cancer ar£los) which b
Caught here, is equal in fize to that (Gammarus)
which is taken near the Swedifo coafts, but has
no large claws, and is craggy all over, and co
vered with ered prickles. It has a ftrong and
not very agreeable tafte*
The Medufa's head (Aftetias caput Medufa)}
one of the moft fingular and curious animals
in nature, was fometimes caught in the ocean
off the Cape, It Is but rarely that it is found
thrown dead upon the foore. In order to pre-
ferve it whok and undamaged for the cabinets
in Europe, It muft be caught far out in the
fea by fifhermen, who muft take great care that
they do not break off any of its limbs, and that
the animal do not too much contrad and en
tangle its outermoft and moft flender branches*
The animal, when alive, or juft after it is dead,
is of a reddlfo or deep carnation colour; and on

THE CAPE, 1773. 241
bn being dried, turns greyifo. It foould be
dried In the foade, during fine weather, and In an
open place, where the wind has free accefs to It;
for in the fun the animal melts away, and. If
placed too much in the foade. It might chance
to putrify. For this wonderful animal the fifoer-
men frequentiy get fix, nay, even foraetiraes ten
rix-dollars. It may be fent to Europe in a box
filled with Carded cotton.
On the foore juft before the town were found
various forts of bivalve foells, and efpecially
many large and beautiful fpecies of Patella.
Strand dubbeltie was the name given to an
Umbilicus veneris, or the upper valve of k cockk-
foell, which was covered all over with tuber
cles. Below the mountains, and near the foore, are
feveral hillocks of fand of different fizes, which
arc drift-fand, and fome change their place twice
a year, according to the winds that prevail.
Some of them have already begun to fettie and
acquire folidity, and are covered with fome few
plants. Among thefe the ridge of fand-hills below the
Lion's Tail is reraarkable, which feems plainly
to indicate the manner in which mountains were
formerly produced, and their different ftrata
formed. This ridge of fand, which ftands juft
before the battery, runs from fouth to north,
VOL. I. R and

142 THE CAPE, 1773.
and keeps in the fame line as the mountains
near the Cape and In all the country do, in
clining more or lefs to the eaft or weft, and
Confequently in the fame diredion as the winds
that prevail here. It increafes every year to the
tiorthward, quite down to the fea-foore. At the
weftern end it forms a curve, and goes off with
a gradual flope, a circumftance which Is occa
fioned either by the adjacent fand-hUl that runs
in the fame diredion, and is folid and firm, and
is ufed for a place of execution, or elfe by the
Lion's Tail, which impedes the paffage of the
wind. The fand of this ridge is loofe, and
driven td and fro in fummer; In winter it is
fomewhat firmer from the rain, but ftill almoft
as loofe as a heap of drift-fnow. Some parts
of it may probably be a little more firm than
the reft. Juft as the fand is driven, the ftrata
are formed, and they lie here, as in the moun
tains, incUning obliquely towards the horizon.
Some layers are loofer, others again harder, ac
cording as the drift-fand was more or lefs pure
or mixed before it was hardened by the rain,
Thefe ftrata run either in a ftralght line, or In
waves or ftreaks of black and white fand, which
at a diftance give the whole ridge the appearance
of an agate. The, black fand is thrown up by
the fea, as well as the white. The former is in
a fmaU quantity, and the latter Is driven more by

THE CAPE, 1773, 243
by the wind, and forms hiUs. This ridge of fand
lies diredly oppofite to the tranfverfe end of
Table Mountain. The top of it Is level, and
ofa middling height; towards the fouth it goes
off graduaUy with a long flope ; to the north
ward It is fteep, where the fand is carried far ovet
the fpot below, which Is foeltered by the ridge
from the wind. The wind can in the fpace of
one day lay fand an inch deep upon Its furface,
which commonly does not faU equally, but here
and there in fpots. Stones and other things that
Ue in the way, are bare on the fouthern fide,
but on the northern are covered with a ridge of
fand running out In a point, juft as the fnow is
difpofed in the northern regions, when it falls
with a high wind. In the fame manner the ftrata
oi mountains appear to havc been formed by the
winds and waves, and to have derived their
origin from the fame caufe, viz, from the two
predominant winds.
The Tefiudo Geometrica was known here by
the appellation of the Syren (Syrentie). This
land-tortoife, which probably is the moft beau
tiful of its kind, was found very coraraon in the
fandy downs among the bufoes. The foells of
fuch as were very fmall, and confequently the
moft beautiful, were ufed for making fouff-
boxes. Round the hills near the Cape grew the Clif-
fortia rufcifioliaf and the Borbonia lanceolafa, much
R 2 refembling

244 THE CAPE, 1773,
refembling juniper trees, and Kke the Roty^alS
Heifieria, with their foarp leaves pricking thc
foot paffengers'; while the Afparagus Capetifisi,
with its recurved thornsi tore their clothes* and
retarded their paffage, for which reafon it has
received from the inhabitants the name of Wakf
en beetje, Stop a bit.
The Tulbaghia alideea (WHde knoffo'bk, or
Wild garUc) which grew both in the fands near
the Cape and in other places in the country, was
ufed in hedic fevers, either boiled in water or in
fome kind of foup.
At feveral farms near the Cape I had an op
portunity of feeing wine made, and pf receiving
information with • refped to the various forts of
wine, whkh are made here in great quantities.
The prefl!ing, which is dorte in March, is per
formed in genei-al, for want of proper tools and
contrivances, in a more firripk manner here than
it is in Europe. The flaves-gather the grapes,
and put them into a large veffel. For the pref-
fing they make ufe of a veffel, the bottom and
fides of which are bored fuU of holes; this
veffel is fet in the infide of a larger veffel upon
a croft piece of >^ood laid at the bottom of the
latter; this outfide veffel has a fpigot and faucet,
through which the juice, as faft as it it Is preffed
out, may run into a tub placed beneath.. The
grapes being laid in the inneir veffpl, heaped up
to the btim, three or four flavfes, afteir' having
previoufly

THE CAPE, 1773. 245
previoufly Mafoed their feet very clean in a tub
of water ftanding at the fide, get Into the veffel
that contains the fruit, and holding themfelves
faft by a rope fi?ed to the cieling, traraple upon
the grapes^ and fqueeze out the juice as long
.as they are able. In the mean time, the muft
that runs out is put into large high veffels to
ferment. If the aperture is obftruded by grapes
or ftalks, fo that the juice cannot eafily run out,
.they pufo them away with a ftick, to the end
of which a few briftks .are fixed.. The trodden
grapes, before they are farther preffed, are put,
ftalks and all, upon a coarfe ftrainer (or the
bottpm of a bed) made of rattans, on which
fhey rub the fruit with their hands, till the
bulks go through it; the ftalks in the mean-
rime remaining behind, which afe now feparated
and thrown away, as they are fuppofed to make
the wine auftere and bitter. The hi^fks are thpn
put. into the fermenting-veffel, which the next
morning is in full ferrppntation, during which
procefs the thick parts fubfide, and the muft
grpws clear, when it is barreUed off, by putting
^wicker baflset intp the bung-hole of the bar
rel, and filtering the wine through it. The
grounds, which remain in the fermenting-veffel,
^re afterwards put info a fquare veffel or vat,
pierced , full of fipks at the fides and bottom,
.which vat is placed on a crofs piece of wpo^ in
|i larger veffel, with a fpigot and faucet at the
R3^ fide,

24^ THE CAPE, 1773.
fide. At the top there is a fcrew of wood or
metal, by means of which the laft drop of juice
is preffed out from the hufks. From the dregs
and hufks, that remain over from the laft preff-
ing, brandy is diftiUed. No yeaft Is ufed for
accelerating the fermentation. The white and
green grapes yield white wine,' and the red, red
wine. The raufcadlne grape, both red and white,
produces the Conftantia wine, and the blood red
grape, the wine called Pontac. Names are be
ftowed accordingly as they referable more or
lefs the produds of the European grapes, though
the refemblance is not always perfed.
A great number of dogs are frequentiy kept in
the farms ; they foUow the cattie into the fields
along with the flave, keep wild beafts away from
the farm, fometiraps proted the mafter from the
outrages of his flaves, and are ferviceable In
hunting and on journies.
The horns of the rhinoceros were kept by
fome people both in town and country, not only
as rarities, but alfo as ufeful in difeafes, and for
the purpofe of deteding poifon. As to the forr
mer of thefe intentions, the fine foavings of the
horns taken internaUy, were fuppofed to cure
convulfions and fpafras in children. With rCr
fped to the latter, it was generally believed, that
goblets made of thefe horns in a turner's lathe,
would difcover a poifonous draught that was put
Into them, by makinjpf the lic^uor ferment till it ran

THE CAPE, 1773. 247
quite out ofthe goblet. Such horns as were taken
from a young rhinoceros calf thathadnotyetcopu-
lated, were faid to be the beft, and the moft to be
depended upon. Of thefe, goblets are raade, which
are fet in gold and filver, and made prefents of
to kings, people of diftlndion, and particular
friends, or elfe fold at a high -price, foraetiraes
at the rate of 50 rixdoUars a goblet. The horn
is of a conical form, thick at the bottom, and
truncated at the top, a foot long, frequently in old
rhinocerofes, and is placed forward on their fnout.
Two or three inches from this,, the African two-
horned rhinoceros has another fmaUer and foorter
horn. In colour, it moft refembles the horn of
a bullock. When I tried thefe horns, both
wrought into goblets, and unwrought, both old
and young horns, with feveral forts of poifons,
weak as well as ftrong, I obferved not the leaft
motion or effervefcence ; but when a folution of
corrofive foblimate, aqua phagsedenlca, or other
fimUar fubftances, was poured into one of thefe
horns, there arofe only a few bubbles, produced
by the air, which had been inclofed in the pores of
the horn, and which was now dlfcngaged from it.
Though few countries can boaft of fo much
venifon and game as this colony, ftill here, as
in Europe, at a certain time of the year, hunting
and foooting are prohibited. Thus from May
to Auguft, nobody is aUowed to hunt or fhopr,
at leaft near the town.
R 4 The

248 THE CAPE, 1773.
The hofpital I very feldom vifited, as I could
not poffibly derive any improveraent from any
thing I faw there. I obferved, however, in this
place, what I never faw any where elfe, viz. that
the attendants on the fick were provided with
ropes ends, with which they now and then cor-.
reded turbulent patients, Mirum Jane morbo-
rum remedium 1 Both in the hofpital and on
board of their foips, the company had, for the
greater part. Ignorant and unfkilful furgeons;
and, in general, when a fkilful furgeon was found
among them, he was a foreigner. When eme
tics or fuch kind of remedies were preicribed,
they were fometimes written down on the head
board of the bed ; and of other medicines, a
dofe was commonly adminlftered Immediately,
which were carried ready made up in a box after
the furgeon, when he vifited the patients. What
moft contributes in this place to the recovery of
the fick, is the excellent refrefoments of frefo
meat and vegetables, that are to be had here.
The principal furgeon makes his report to the
governor every day of the number and ftate of
the patients.
At Zeeko valley the company has a farm,
where ftraw(Ki?/?/o teSlorum) is cut and prepared
for the purpofe of thatching, as follows: A
bundle or foeaf, after it is cut, is held by the top,
and all the foorter ftalks that are loofe in it, are
foaken off from ir. The remaining long ones are

TflE CAPE, 1773. 249
are then fpread, out in rows todry, and afterwards
tied up in bundles. With this the houfes are
com'monly thatched botii in town apd country ;
and fometiraes whole huts are built with it. A
roof made of it lafts 20 or 30 years, and would
laft much longer if the foijth-eaft wind did not
blow a great deal of dirt between the thatch, in
confequence of which it rots the fooner.
Near Mujfenberg (or Moufe raountain) the
wax-forubs {Myrica quercifotia and cordifolia)
grew in abundance along the foore. The ber
ries of them are quite rpund, full of knobs, foft,
and of the fize of a pea. The berries them
felves are quite black, but covered with a farina
pf a whitifo-grey colour. They are gathered
in their ripe ftate in the month of March, and
boiled in water tUl aU the white powder Is melted
¦ off, and floats on the furface of the water like
fat; this, when fkimmed off and cooled, grows
hard, almoft like wax, and is of a greenifo-grey
or afo colour. The farraers ufe It for candles,
when they get any quantity of it, and the Hot
tentots eat it like fo much cheefe.
In the fandy plains near the Cape, and chiefly
near thc larger farms, the goldfinch {Loxia orix)
was feen now in the midlt of fummer, very beau
tiful, of a crimfon colour, and in infinite num
bers. Juft when the corn grows ripe, he ac
quires his fummer drefs ; his brownifo grey fea
thers on the throat and back become gradually ^of

250 THE CAPE, 1773.
of a red colour, and leave only the wings and
taU unchanged.. The hen does not come in for
her foare of this beautiful attire, butre mains the
whole year of a grey-brown hue.
The country people feldom raade any cheefe;
and when they did, which was chiefly out of
curiofity, the cheefes were fmall, thin, and of
an indifferent tafte ; the caufe of which probably
is the milk, which, it muft be confeffed, is poor
enough compared to the fine rich milk produced
in HoUand,
The cows, as weU as the other cattie, go to
fkld the whok year throughout, being driven
home In the evening, and lie within fences in
the open air. The grafs which they feed on in
thofe extenfive plains, and which is the beft and
moft copious in winter time, in confequence
of the rain, and worft In furaraer on account of
the heat and drying winds, is in general harfo
and coarfe. Hence the cows give little raUk>
and that but Indifferent, For this reafon the
cattle degenerate to a certain degree in the
courfe of a few years. The horned cattle, of
which the peafants herds in this country con
fift, are of Dutch extradion, it is true, but are
at prefent greatly degenerated, A Dutch cow
that is brought hither, and has coft forty or fifty
rix dollars, gives raore milk than three others,
but its offspring degenerates, and the third pr
I fourth

THE CAPE, 1773, 251
fourth is exadly like the reft, which frequently
give no more than a quart of mUk a day.
• Frefo butter, which in general is made from
new milk, is fold in the town for eight, twelve,
or fixteen ftivers, and fait butter at two, four,
or fix ftivers per pound. The price, however,
varies with the confumption.
Though the country is inhabited by colonifts,
ftiU the farms are not all held In the fame man
ner. That trad of country which is neareft to
the town and harbour, or In the vicinity of them,
has been fold by the Hottentots for tobacco,
• brandy, and other comraodities, The other ex
tenfive tracts of land were afterwards taken pof
feffion of gradually by the colonifts. Thus the
farms which are fituated neareft to the Cape,
as far as Picquet-berg, and a littk beyond
it, are freeholds, or lands which are the uncon
ditional property of the colonift, for which hp
pays no quit-rent, and which he is at liberty to
•difpofe of. The other farms farther up the
country, on the other fide of the mountains, arc
called copyholds, which the colonifts have oc
cupied with the permlffion of the governor, and
for each of which twenty-four rix dollars are
paid yearly to the company in fine, which
cannot be fold or transferred to any one elfe
without the permlffion of the governor. The
buildings

'•252 THE CAPE, -17.73,
buildings upon the premifes may he fold, it is
true, but not the land.
Planks and boards, aswell as beams for build
ing, were extremely dear, as they were fcarce,
and brought a great way frpm the inland parts
of the country, fo that the greateft part of them
muft be imported from Europe or .the Eaft
Indies. They are generally fold by meafure,
planks feUing fpr two flceUings a foot.
Sheep's dung was frequently ufed for manur
ing the vineyards, and horfe dung for the gar
dens. Sheep's dung often lies In the fheep-folds
to the depth of a yard and more.
Wheat-fields, vineyards, and gardens, are very
numerous about the farms in the vicinity of the
town and harbour, and there they have but few
cattie. The vineyards in the neighbourhood pf
the Gape, the grapes of which being larger and
riper, yield the beft and moft delicious wine|
and confequently are more profitable, occafion
the cultivation of wheat to be negleded in pro
portion, which is rellnquifoed to thp farmers that
live farther up in the country. The wheat-
fields are often left fallow for feveral years, as
every hufbandman has a great quantity of land,
which he can afford to keep unemployed.
Whenever either a new field or a field that has
lain fallow for feveral years is to be put in, or
der, which is a difficult pkce pf wprk, fuch
ground
9

THE CAPE, 1773. , 253}
ground is firft ploughed In the month of Auguft,
and then again in May, after being previoufly
fowed. Thc African ploughs have two wheels,
one ©f which is fmaller than the other.
When a youth is arrived at the age of fifteen,
he muft be enroUed, and every year he muft
refort to the place of rendezvous. In order to
perform his exercife. On this occafion he muft
take the oath of aUegiance. When a father
has two fons in the militia, he himfelf is ex
empt from duty. Thefe reviews, both of horfe
and foot, are held every year, in the town for
the burghers, and at Stellenbofch and Zwellen
dam for the farraers belonging to the colony. If
any one negkds to appear at thefe rendezvoufes,
he is fined.
The farmers feU their merchandizes at the
Cape, either to the company or the burghers,
but are not permitted to difpofe of any thing to
ftrangers. Befides the regency which is refident In the
town, the country is governed by two courts of
judicature, at which a landroft prefides.
Stellenbofch is a village confifting of thirty
houfes and upwards, with a church ; here a
landroft refides, under whofe jurifdidion comes
that part of the country which Is fituated tP the
north and north-weft ; the other part of the
colony that lies to the eaftward is under the
fway

954 THE CAPE, 1773.
fway of the landroft at ZweUendam. Stellenbofck^i
is fituated in a narrow valley between high moun
tains, which are open to the fouth-weft or to
wards FalJe Bay. It has two ftreets with oak
trees planted In them, and a river running
through them.
Franjchehock ftands not far from Stellenbofch,
below the mountains, and In the cleft ofa moun
tain. It Is remarkable for being the place,
which immediately after the foundation of the
town was inhabited by the French refugees, who
between the years 1680 and 1690, removed
hither from Holland, and firft began to plant
vineyards in this country.
Drakenftein alfo is a colony in the neighbour
hood of the former, and fituate under the fame
ridge of mountains. The mountains here ex
tend from north to fouth, juft as, they do near
the town ; and this diredion of them is the
caufe that the farms that are fituated in valleys
between two raountains have their day and
night at different times. Thofe who Uve yinder
the mountains on thc weftern fide, have day
light firft, as the fun having reached the
tops of the mountains, which are frequently
covered with hail, and thence appear white. In
an inftant illuminates the whole weftern fide;
while, on the other hand, thofe who live on the
eaftern fide bf the valley, fee the fun knger in
the

THE CAPE, 1773' 255
the evenings, the other fide at the fame time
appearing to them enveloped In darknefs and a
light-blue mift, while they therafelves continue
to enjoy the moft delightful funfolne.
Next to the Cape, towards the north, and
diredly oppofite to the tbwn, are the Tygers
Mountains, which are in the fame diredion with
the Olyfant's Kop, and the Blauwe Berg, or
Blue Mountains, all of which are feparated from
each other by vaUeys.
' . . Neither burghers nor hufoandmcn have a
right to marry till they have obtained the
governor's confent. As foon as any perfon
has obtained this, which is ufuaUy afked on
Thurfdays, the b.ridegroom receives an order,
which In the prefence of the bride he delivprs
to the jufticiary; who, after having carefuUy
examined matters, and found that the parties
are not too near related, gives alfb his confent
to the match, and aUows the banns to be -pub-
Ufoed three Sundays following, in the ufual
manner, from the pulpit.
So that when the farmers take their annual
journey up to town to fell their commodities,
buy the neceffary articles for their families, and
pay their taxes, they muft always take that
opportunity of being united in the bands of
wedlock, or of having their children baptized at
their parifo church. Should
6

256 THE CApE, 1773.
Should the governor refufe any one his per
miflion to marry, ftiU he cannot prevent the'
parties contraded frorn living together, who, iri
fuch cifes, are frequently obliged to put off their
nuptials till the arrival of another governor,'
whofe confent they may obtain. Sometimes It
happens that the bride has recourfe to the jufti
ciary, who may think proper to order the mar
riage to be confummated. In this Cafe, if the
bridegroom be at that time engaged In the com
pany's Tervice, he may have the misfortune to
be fcnt away by the governor to fome place in
the Eaft Indies. The fair fex here, in general,'
marry very young, and as the boundaries of the
colony have been much extended of late, the
increafe of population has likewife been very
great. The country people have provifions in abun
dance, but are frequently in want of furniture.
One frequentiy fees chairs and tables made by the
farraer hirafelf, which he covers with calf-fkin,
or makes of platted leathern ftraps^ The fioors in
the houfes are formed of earth, beaten down hard
and fraboth. In order to make them hard and
firm, they are overlaid either with a mixture of
water and cow-dung, or with buUock's blood,
which renders them at the fame time rather
flippery. Various

• THE CAPE, 1773. 257
Varibus forts of fruits, befides raifins, were
dried for the ufe of the foips.
In winter, fait meat is fometimes eaten, thbugh
very rarely ; but fcarcely any is fbld to the foips.
When a farm is'-fold In the country, the bar
gain is concluded;, and the farm paid- for In gil
ders, three of which are" reckoned to a rixdoUar.
The town as well as couritry-pebpk, look
upon this country, or their mother-land, as they
term it, to be far foperibr to othersj as it prb-
duces every neceffary bf life in abundance ; fho'
at the fame time, they are confcious that Europe,
their father-land, muft fiirnifo them with- every
thlrig"elfev even tb the ¦very plough-foare, with
which they rill this their fertUe country.
In the various excurfions I made Into the
country, this as Well as the preceding years, I
have been mbre and more convinced, that the
; whole promontory, called the Cape, is nothing
buta mountain; for all the ridges and chains
^f mountains, asweU the greateft a;sthfe fmalleft,
run between fouth-eaft and north-weft, and thus
, take the fame diredion as the violent winds that
prevail in this country. They alfo run parallel'
to, but at unequal diftances from each other,: fo
that fome of the vales that are interpofed be
tween them, are broad, and frequently inhabited,
while others again are very narrow. Towards
the north-weft, I have not had an opportunity
VOL, I, S of

258 THE CAPE, 1773.
of feeing their termination ; they probably run
that way as far as to. the fea, without kaying any
path for walking on the foore. Towards the
fouth-eaft, all of them, except Hottentot Holland's
mountain, terminate In a gentle declivity, before
they reach the fea foore. It is fingular, that
when one goes from the town into the. country,
from fouth to north, and paffes over a mountain,
the country on the farther fide is found to be more
elevated ; and If we traverfe the mountains that
we meet with/arther on, the height ofthe country
ftlU increafes, and fo on for three or four day's
journey. So that the country between thefe
ridges Is nothing but a vak, which is fo broad
as to have obtained the name of a province, and
is adorned with feveral farms. On afcending the
mountains furrounding fuch valleys, we fee
fimllar ridges and "valleys In miniature, but much
fmaller, and rarely inhabited. The diftances
between fome of the ridges raay be fix miles and
more, between others only two or three, and on
the tops of the .mountains no more than a ftone's
throw. Such a trad of land, however, is not
plain and level, like a meadow, but deeper in
the middk, where the deepeft rivers, forraed by
the conjundion of feveral branches in one, run
parallel with the ridges of the mountains them
felves, and it graduaUy rifes higher on each fide,
in proportion as we approach the mountains. Near

THE CAPE, 1773. 259
Near the Cape, which forms thc fouthernmoft
angle ofthe triangle of Africa, the mountains have
the leaft extent. The farther one advances up into
the country, and the broader it grows, the longer
are the ridges formed by the mountains. And
the farther one proceeds among the mountains,
and the higher the country is, the colder one
always finds the climate. In winter there falls
foow, or what is more frequentiy the cafe, hail,
the depth of fix inches or more, which lies
feveral days, and on the tops of the mountains
for weeks together, without melting. In the
month of Odober I obferved the hail ftill lying
on the foow-white tops of the mountains, while
the country below was clad in its richeft fommer
attire. Likewife In propoi-tion as thc cold in
creafes in confequence of the elevation of the
country, all vegetables are later produced. The
difference I found here and In fome other places,
to amount to as much as two months. Near
the Cape, therefore, all plants and flowers
make their appearance the fooneft, the country
there being lower, and the air milder. In like
manner, the whok fouthern coaft, where the
mountains go off with a gradual declivity, is al
ways the warmeft, and is for this reafon, the
moft populous, and beft Inhabited part of the
whok colony, S 2 This

26o TH,E. CAPE^ i-77(3r
Thi^ defcriptbn of t;he extent, appearanpe,
^^ height of the mpuntains, together with thjP;
i^ature.of the country, I hope ipay, throw rather-
mprp. light, on the geography of this part of
.^frica, than we had. b^orp, at the fame '^In^P.
that it difcpvers the, reafpn. why a. cpuntry fittj7,
atpd in fo good and temperate a climate, is ip
fome places, extremely fertile apd. cultivated, apd
in others, abfolutely bare, and in fad, almpfb
defert and inacceffible.
The Dutch officers, both of the outward and;
homeward-bound foips, efpecially of the latter,,
difpofe here of a great quaptity of merchancilze,
of different kinds: the former bring for fale,,
wines, beer, cured hatns, chepfe, tobacco pipes,
and fomptlmes haberdafoery and hardware j the
latter, cottpns, chintzes, rice, tea, &c. And
if they, cannot difpofe of their merchapdize
to the dealers feparately, they put tbem up at,
public audion. Ope likewife, fees mapy pf
the Buyghers, who have bought various articles,
by whokfak, feU them agaip by audion. Such,
fak* by audion, are frequently held alfo inthe
fpring and winter months, on the company's,
account; and government generally takes thc,
precaution not to allow ofthe audions of indi-,
viduals, tlU the company has difpofed of ifs,
merchandizes firft.
Of

THE CAPE, 1773. 261
Of the foreign naval ofiicers, the Englifo and
Danifo carry on the greateft trade. The former
chiefly feU large quantities of fine and coarfe
hardware, ef^dally failor's knives, fciffars, and
other fimllar articksi The latter, in going out,
feU Danifo ale and tar, and on their return,
chintzes from Bengal. The Swedifo ofiicers
traded for little or nothing ; On their return, they
only difpofed of a few eanifters pf tea, fome
Nankin and Chinefe filks, fcarcely to a greater
amount, than what they paid at their inn for the
few days they were on foore. Otherwife; de
firable articles from Swederi are coarfe grey cloth,
lumber, copper, iron, bi-afs, fpades, herrihgs,
afad more efpeciaUy tar, charcoal and iron, all
^VhIch fell to great advantage. The company
charges eight rixdoUars for i Cwt. of iron,
though it is cold-foire, and inferior to the Swe
difo. For all wares and coramodities fold by
ihdividuals at audions, 5 per cent, muft be paid
to the fifcal. The raoney for goods and wares
fold by audion, is not to be paid tUl fix weeks
afterwards. Among aU the different nations that .fre
quented this place, none were fuch bold failbrs
as the Englifo. They would often beat about
in the roads with a ftrong fouth-eaft wind, whUe
the Dutch foips either kept the opfen fea, or caft
anchor under Robben' Ifland, till they got a more
S 3 favourable

262 THE CAPE, 1773,
favourable wind. The former have for the
moft part no other rule than their own judg
ment and experience, and their foips are better
failert. ; whereas the latter have heavier and more
unwieldy foips, and are obliged to ad according
to the company's Orders.
Foreign foips were faid to pay for anchorage
only 500 gilders; but aU the provifions they
want they muft pay dear for, owing to the ira-
pofts pftablifoed by the company on raeat and
wines. Strangers pay two ftivers for a pound
of raeat, which the company has for three doits,
or about a fifth part ofthe price.
In the baptifm of children, the Cape clergy
confider it as a'circumftance of the firft import
ance that the father foould be known, and be
prefent. If the child isa baftard, and its father.
does not dlfcover himfelf, the infant reraains
unbaptized. If the raother is a Black or a
Hottentot, but the father a Chriftian, who re
quires It to be baptized, it is baptized. Every
chriftening muft be performed in the church,
for which reafon fuch colonifts as live far up
in the country, muft take their infants with them
when they go to the Cape, though as Is fome
times the cafe, it be but fix raonths old.
The gardens both within and withput ' the
town, fuffer great devaftation from three or four
different fpecies of rats, which are generally termed

THE CAPE, 1773. 263
termed moles. One of thefe, calkd the White
Mole {IVitte Moll, Marmota Africana), is of
the fize of a fmall cat, and white all over, with
a foort tail. The fecond, called the Blaze-
fronted Mole {Bles Moll, Marmota Capenfis), is
fmaller, and white with brown fpots. The third
fpecies is lefs comraon, and very beautiful, be
ing of a greenifo colour with a foining fur.
The laft of thefe {Talpa Afiatica) or the Gold-
green Mole {Blinde Moll), burrows In the gar
dens under the furface of the ground, throwing
up the raould, by which raeans it ruins both the
figured trees and hedges that are raade of myrtle
and box. The former fpecies of moles alfo
are found in the fand-downs near the town.
When the peopk of the town planted trees
before their houfes, they were very folicitous to
get a dead dog to put in the hole, by which
means they thought the growth of the tree
would be much accelerated.
The Bay tree {Laurus nobilis) was in many
places obferved to form fo clofe a hedge,
that one could fcarcely fee through it. It bent
likewife to the violence of the winds without
breaking. The Hottentots who had comraitted ads of
•violence againft fome colonifts living a great
way up the country, and had been brought
hidier fome time before, were now punifoed.
S 4 - Some

264 THE CAPE, 1773-
Some pf. them were only Jflqggecl, pthers were
flogged apd ma.rke4 befides on the back with a
red hot iron, and .otbprs had the tendon near
the heel (Ten4.o Achillis) cpt out befides. After
this they were fet free, and fent home again for
a warping to others. They had not been taken
without diffioulty, as ,they had fortified them
felves in the c^yijcks and crevices pf the moun
tains, where |h^y were outpf thp reach pf fircr
ar,m?- Pefides thjs, they defendiPd themfelves
by , roUing lljo;ies down upon their enemies.
The company had ordered pot only the farraprs
out againft them, but alfo a corporal from the
cifadel with |iye men tp bombard thPm with
hand grenades. 4-t laft they were taken by
ftratagera, by the Hottentot Captam Kies.
. Accopnts were now again received from
Roggeveld, that the Bofoks-men Hottentots had
plundered and kUkd thp farmers In that dif
trld. In the mpnth of ]\4arch, when I paffed a
whple day on the top of Table Mountain, I
was gratified in the evening with a fingular and
moft beautiful profped frora this cpnfiderablp
eminence. Table Mountain, like aU other
mountains in this country, lies in a diredion
from north-weft to fouth-eaft, thus leaving one
pf its long fides open to the north-eaft, and the
other to the fopth-weft. The fun, rifing in the
eaft,

THE CAPE, 1773. 265
eaft, does not here proceed towards the fouth, as
in Europe, but towards the north, and at laft
fioks into the ocean to the weftward of the
mountain. This raakes an earlier morning, and
pthiblts the fun fooner on the north-eaft fide,
and a longer afternoon, and later fun on the
fouth-weft fide. So that on the top of this
mountain, about five o'clock in the afternoon,
two different worlds, as it were, prefented them
felves to ray view, of which tbe weftern ftill en
joyed the fineft fun-foine and a clear horizon,
while the eaftern was already covered with dark
nefs and a thick impending mift. This mift,
which had exhaled from the heated plain, and
was now condenfcd in the fuddenly cooled air,
was fo thick that no part of the whole country
was to be feeo, but the whole region refembled
a fmooth unbroken cloud, and did not a little
contribute to render the view on each fide of the
mountain remarkably different, though a mo
ment before they were much the fame.
In the raonth of May, between the 12th and
igth, in company with Major Gordon and an
Englifo gardener, lately arrived, of fhe riame of
Mason, I raade an excurfion on foot round the
' ' ' " mountains fituate between the Cape and Falfe
Bay. Having afcended the front of rhe valley
as high as the fummit of Table Mountain, we
faw a valley to the right, which runs down to
thp

266 THE CAPE, 1773.
the fea-foore. To the left a fountain was feeii
bubbling up, and forming a narrow rivulet; but
it was fo much overgrown with bufoes, that' its
fource under a large rock could not be per
ceived. In all the flat daks of the mountain,
both the large and fmaU ones, there was raould,
water, and mofs, which formed a kind of bog.
Towards the fouth-eaft it gradually fubfides into
valleys, juft in the front of Hout Baay.
Through the vale called Babian's Kloof (Ba
boon's Valley), which, proceeding from Table
Mountain, parts the ridge of mountains that runs
from Confiantia to the fartheft point In the fouth,
we went to Hout Baay, where there was a farm ;
to the right we had the little Lion's Head, a
peaked mountain, refembling the great Lion's
Head near the Cape, and the Karfunkel (or
Carbuncle) Mountain, which is oblong, and co
vered at the foot with a fine white quickfand
reaching as far as to the fea-foore. This latter
mountain forms a promontory, the uttermoft point
of which rifing into a conical protuberance that
hangs over the fea, is called the Hang-lip. This
is feparated, as well as the Lion's Head, from Ta
ble Mountain. Table Mountain has a cOnfiderabk
rivulet at ics top, a branch of which erapties it
felf into Hout Baay (or Wood Bay). The fea
at low water formed, in Hout Baay, rivers, the
banks

THE CAPE, 1773. 267
banks of which were fteep from the fand that
had fallen dowri. At the mouth a river was
formed in a crofs diredion, the banks of which
were likewife extremely fteep from the fallen
fand. The whole bay was full of round fand-
ftones, like the foores of the lake Vetter. To
the left was feen Steenberg, or Stone Mountain;
at the foot of which, on the other fide, are
fituated Great and Little Confiantia, and which
runs out into the fea ip a promontory caUed
Steenbergenhoek, where there is a farm belonging
to the company, and known by the name of
Muyfenberg, or Moufe Mountain.
From Hout Bay we went over the raountains
to North Hoek, where three farras are laid out
near a krge pool of water. The projeding
point itfelf of the mountain over which we had
paffed. Is calkd North Hook, and the oppofite
projedlon the Slange Kop (or Serpent's Head).
The downs here confifted all of quickfand, raifed
into hills of various heights ; thofe that had been
lately forraed being ftill bare, and thofe that
were of a more ancient date, overgrown with
bufoes, efpecially the wax-forub (Myrica cordi
folia), which frequently grew on thera low and ,
creeping. A falt-pan that lay to the fouth-eaft,
had banks of two or three yards in height; it
was now partly filled with water, the furface of
which was covered with Flamingoes (Phcenicop- terus

268 THE CAPB, '1773.
ter us ruber). Its bottom was fandy, or a mix
ture of fand and clay. In winter time it is filled
with water for the fpace of feveral raonths. It
has its water from rain, and not from the fea,
from which it is at a confiderable diftance;
confequently its water is not increafed br di-
minifoed by the tide. Duyn-hout, or Zwart -boat,
was the name given to a forub that has fiefoy
leaves, and was without bloffoms, Foliis compoji-
tis, foliolis funeiformibus carnofis. It appeared
to be an umbelliferous plant. Here we met
with the celebrated farmer Jan Bruyns, one bf
the beft markfmen in the country, and who had
made the unfortunate expedition with Heupnaer
to the Rio de la Goa, through the country of the
Caffres, when feven of the company were maf-
facred by the Caffres, and himfelf with only five
others efcaped.
The Slange bofch {Seriphium) which grew here,
was faid, when made into a decodion, to expel
worms. After pui-fulng our journey farther over the
mountains to Wildfchut's brand, where we found
only one Hottentot hut, fituated in a fine grafS
plot pn the' mountain j we went a little way back
again over the fame mountains, and arrived at
Falfe bay.
The barren mountains, -which run from Falfe
bay out into rhe fea, are called by the colonifts,
as well as by the failors, Norweegen, or Norway. Bay

the cape, 1773. 269
Bay Falfo, Falfe or Simon's bay, is a name
given to the harbour on this fide, where the foips
pnly touch in winter, and where they are foel
tered from the north-weft ftorms, fo dangerous
ip this feafon to the foips that lie In Table- bay.
This harbour is larger than that of the Cape.
The foore Is hot broad, and in feveral places,
by reafon of the mountains jetting out into
the fea, there is none at all. The houfes ftand
on the tops ofthe hUls,, and are fometimes very
unfit for the accoraraodation of ftrangers. A,
Ifirge. round rock in the harbour went by the
name of the Ark,, anpther was Calkd the Romance-
rock; and an ifland, fituated farther out to the.
e^^viaxd,, Malagas ifiand. Befides a houfe be-
Ipnging to the company, in which Uves a refident,,
there are here an hofpital, a warehoufe, a flaugh-
terhoufe, and a few farm houfes belonging to
individuals. The company's garden lay at fome.
diftance. From Falfe bay we went over flat and low
fands, pzffed Muyfenberg and the company's fifo
ing place, back to the Cape. In different parts
of the fandy plains there were fmaU lakes, as
they might be called, of fait water, which had
pot yet been dried up by the fummer's heat.
Thefe plains, abounding as they did in water,
ftiU harboured in different parts fome Flamingoes,
which, with their white and blood-red, feathers, adorned

270 THE CAPE, 1773,
adorned thefe fpots, and devoured the infeds
and worras in thc water. We foot one of thera,
and broke the wing bone, which prevented the
bird, from flying; but we had ftiU the greateft
difficulty to catch it, as with its long legs it
Waded through the water, which was a foot deep,
much fafter than we were able to follow it.
On the ift of June, being Whit- Monday, there
arofe a very high north-weft wind, with violent
hurricanes and foowers of rain ; at night, in this
ftorm, the Jonge Thomas, one of the four
foips belonging to the company, that were ftiU
in the road, having loft all its anchors, one after
the other, was driven on the fands near the ftore,
at Zout rivier, and. In confequence of its heavy
lading, fpUt into two pieces in the middle. The
forge rofe to an amazing height on the foores
towards this fide, and Zout rivier was fo fwoUen,
that It was almoft Impaffable. It is true, from
the middle of May to the middle of Auguft, the
company's foips are prohibited from lying In the
road ; yet it fometimes happens, that the go
vernor permits it In order to avoid the incon
veniences of viduaUing and lading the foips in
Falfe Bay. Independently of the lofs fuftained
by the corapany, as weU in foips as raerchandize,
there perifoed alfo unfortunately on this occafion,
a nuraber of the crew, who, for the want of affift
ance, were loft, and met with a deplorable death, ¦
very

THE CAPE, 1773, 271
very near the land. Only 62 men efcaped, 149
being unhappily, drowned.
The foip had fcarcely ftruck, v/hicli happened
juft at day-break, when the moft efficacious ex
pedients were ufed to fave as much as poffible
of the company's property that might chance to
be thrown on foore, though I could not perceive
that the leaft care was taken to deliver a fingle
foul ofthe crew from their forlorn and miferabk
fituation. Thirty men were inftantly ordered
out, with a ftripling of a lieutenant, from the
citadel, to the place where the foip lay, in order
to keep a ftrid look-out, and prevent any of the
company's effeds from being ftolen ; and a gib
bet was ereded, and at the fame time an edid
ifluied, importing that whoever foould come near
that fpot, foojld be hanged up Immediately,
without trial or fentence of judgment being
paffed upon him. This was the caufe that the
compaffionate inhabitants, who had gone out on
horfeback to afford the wretched fufferers fome
affiftance, were obliged to turn back without
being abk to do them the leaft fervice; but, on
the contrary, were, together with me, ocular wit-
nefles of the brutality and want of feeling foewn
by certain perfons on this occafion,who did not be
ftow a thought on affording their fellow-creatures,
that fat on the wreck perifoing with cold, hun ger.

272 THE CAPE, 17731
ger, and thirft, and were almoft in the arms of
death, the leaft affiftance or relief. «
Another circumftance contributed to render
this otherwife diftreffing fcene ftiU more a'ffiiding.
Among the few, who were lucky^ehough to be
able to fave their lives by fwimming from the
wreck, was the gunner, a man with whora I was
acquainted, and met with feveral- tiraes after
wards in the town : he had ftripr hiritifelf quite
naked, in order that he raight fwira the eafier,
and had the good luck to corae alive to' foore,
which was not the cafe with every one that could
fwira ; for many were either dafoed to pieces
againft the rocks, or elfe by the violence of the
furf carried back again to fea. When he arrived
on foore, he found his cheft landed before him j
but juft as he was going to open it, and take out
his great coat, thelieutenant, who commanded the
party, drove him away from it; and though he
earneftly begged for kave to take out the clothes
neceffary for covering his naked and ffiivering
body, and could alfo pro'Ve by the key, faftened,
according to the failors cuftom, to his girdle, as
weU as by his namecut out on the lid of the cheft,
that it was adually his property, he was, never
thelefs, forced to retreat without effeding his pur
pofe, by this unmerciful hero, who gave him feve
ral fmart blows with a cane on his bare back. After
he had paffed the whole day naked and hungry,
5 and

THE Cape, 1773. 273
and expofed to the cold winds, and was goin^
to be taken in the evening to town along with
the others who had been faved from the wreck,
he again afked leave to take a coat out of his
cheft to cover himfelf with; but this having
been previoufly plundered, he found empty.
On entering the town, where he arrived ftark
naked, he met with a burgher, who took com-
paflion on him, and lent him his great coat.
Afterwards he, as well as the other unfortunate
wretches, was forced to run about the town for
feveral days together, begging for viduals;
clothes, and money, till at length they were fup
ported at the company's expence, and taken
back again into its fervice.
Another adion that does great honour to
humanity, -deferves the more to be recorded here,
as it foews that at all tiraes, and in all places,
there are both good and confiderate people, as
well as fuch as have nothing human but the
foape. An old man, ofthe nameof Woltemad,
by birth an European, who was at this time the-
kecpcr of the beafts in the menagerie near the
garden, had a fon in the citadel, who was a
corporal, and among the firft who had been
ordered out to Paarden Iftand (Horfe Ifland)
^here a guard was to be fet for the prefervatlon
of the wrecked goods. This worthy veteran
borrowed a horfe, and rode out in the morning
- VOL. I. T with

274 THE CAPE, 1773.
with a bottle of wine and a loaf of bread for his
fon's hreakfaft. This happened fo early, that
the gibbet bad not yet been ereded, nor the edid
pofte4 up, to point out to the traveller the near
eft road to eternity. This hoary fire had no
fooner delivered to his fon the refrefoments he
had^brought him, and heard the lamentations pf
the diftteflfed crew from the wreck, than he re
folved to ride bis horfe, which was a good fwim-
mer, to the wreck, with a view of favlng fome
of them. He repeated this dangerous trip fix
times more, bringing eacb time two men ahve
on foore, and tbus faved in all fourteen perfons.
The horfe was by this time fo much fatigued,
that he did not think it prudent to venture out
again ; but the cries and intreaties of the poor
wretches on the wreck increafipg, he ventured
to lake one trip more, which proved fo unfor
tunate, that he loft his own life, as on this oc
cafion too many from the wreck rufoed upon
lum at once, fome of them catching hold of the
borfe's taU, and others pf the bridle, by which
means the horfe, both wearied out, and now too
heavy laden, turned head over heels, and aU
were drowned togetiier. This nobk and heroic
adion of a foperannuated old man, fufficiently
foews that a great many lives might probably
Rave been faved, if a ftrong rope had been fatt
ened by one end to the wreck, and by the other to
¦Ihe

TME CAPE, 1773. 475
die foore. Along this rope either a bafket or
a large copper veffel might have been bawled to
and from the foip, with a man in it each time.
When the ftorm and waves had fubfided, the
foip was found to lie at a fo fmaU a diftance from
the land, that one might have almoft leaped from
it on foore.
The vigorous meafures taken to preferve the
bompany's effeds and merchandize, were not,
however, fo efficacious, as to prevent certain
|>erfons in office from enriching themfelves con
fiderably on this occafion. For when whole
horfe-loads of iron from the wreck could be fold
to the fmiths in town, it is eafy to conceive that
their confciences would not ftand greatly in their
way, if they could lay their hands upon portable
and ¦valuable commodities. The foldiers alfo
were fo carefol when on guard, that nothing
foould be pillaged from the wreck, that they
themfelves every night, when relieved, marched
into town With their muflket-barrels ftuffed full
of foUd gold lace, which, though fomewhat da
maged by the fait water, anfwered very weU when
thrown into tbe melting pot.
Though the bardeft hearts frequently are foften-
ed by the uncommonly fevefe misfortunes anddif-
treffes of their fellow-erratures, and though great
and nobk adions have at all tiraes been able to
excite the gratitude and benevolence of the fel-
T 2 low

276 THE CAPE, 1773, ¦
low-citizens of the perpetrator; yet (I am forry
to fay it) I have it not iri ray power to cpnclude
this raelancholy pidure with forae delightful
trait of generous compaffion on the part of the
governor towards the poor fufferers, and efpe
cially towards the drowned hero, or of fome
noble remuneration of his fon. For when, foortiy
after, this young man foUcited for the employ
ment of his. deceafed father, which was a poft of
fuch fmall importance, that it could neither be
confidered as a recompenfe, nor could it be
envied him by- any ope. It was refufed bim, and,
given to another, , ;
This unfeeling bon vivant of a govemor, rich.-
in money, but poor in fpirit, permitted him,
neverthelefs, afterwards to do what others con
fider as a. punifoment, viz. to go to Batavia,,
where he hoped to find kinder patrons and a
wider field for making his fortune in. And here
he would doubtlefs have attained his defires, had-
he Uved longer; but in the, very unwhokforae.
climate whither he was now gotp:;^tofee his only,
brother, a merchant, he died, before, an order
arrived from the diredors of the company in
Holland (which did as rauch credit to them, as it
ought to have accumulated fliame upon the offi-,
cers at the Cape) viz. that the fons of Woltemad,,
for the fake of their father, foould he rewarded,
and' promoted in every way that could poffibly; be

THE CAPE, 1773. 277
be done. On this and fimilar occafions, I have
obferved, how much an enlightened mind and
a generous heart are to be prized above the gifts
of fortune, above riches and honors ; and how
infinitely thefe latter are exalted by the former,
if they are united with them, in which cafe they
command every one's efteem.
I now alfo perceived the reafon why the Eu
ropeans, both failors and foldiers, are in many
iefpeds treated worfe and with lefs compaffion,
than the very flaves themfelves. With refped
to the latter, the owner not only takes care that
they are clothed and fed, but likewife, when
they are fick, that they are well nurfed and have
proper medical attendance. The former go as
they can, [viz. naked, or dreffed in tattered
clothes, which, perhaps, after all, do not fit
them ; and when one of them dies. It is a com
mon faying, that the company gets another for
nine guilders. ,
The violent hurricanes from the north-weft
have more than once occafioned foipwreck in
thefe roads. In 1692, three veffels, one Englifo
and two Dufch, were driven on foore and loft.
From the fame caufe, thirty years ago. In the
month of May, feven of the corapany's foips
were faid to have been wrecked and loft.
On the 31/ of July a flave was executed, who
had murdered his mafter. The delinquent being
T 3 laid

27? THE CAPE, 1773,
laid on a crofs and tied faft to it, firft his arms
and legs were burned in eight different parts with
jagged'tongs, made red hot ; afterwards his arms
and legs were broken on the wheel, and laftly,
his head was cut off and fixed on a pole. The
judge that tries and condemns the criminal, is
always prefent, and walks in proceffion to the
place of execution, in order to give folemnity
to the ceremony. The foldiers form a circle.
The place of execution is between the town and
the citadel, on a fmaU eminence.
On the Sth of Auguft, a flave was hanged for
fome great crime.
After malefadors have fuffered at the place of
execution, within the town, they are always
brought out in the evening to the gallows with
out the town, where they are either hanged, and
that generally in irons, in which manner the fke-
kton may be preferved for a long time, or elfe
drawn and quartered. There are two gallows
out of the town, one at the entrance Vto the har
bour, under the Leeuwe-ftaart (Lion's tail) on
which Europeans arc hanged, and the other be
yond the citadel, near Zout rivier, on which
flaves and Hottentots are executed.
Zout-rivier (or Salt-river) is a river of con
fiderable fize, which derives its fource from Table-
mountain, and difemboguies itfelf into the harbour.
The

THE CAPE, 1773, 479
The water here is fait, from the admixture of fea
water, and rifes and faUs with the tide.
The oak {^ercus robur) and apricot {Prunus
Armeniaca) bloffomed in Auguft, the former,
juft after it had thrown out its leaves, and thc
latter, before it had any leaves. The alder alfo,
{Betula alnus) as weU as the almond and peach-
tree, were now in bloffom.
In the winter-months, when much rain fell,
the water was in fome places feen rufoing like a
torrent through the clefts of the mountains,
down the higheft, fteep, and bare rocks.
Though the colony is inhabited to a great
extent, and the Hottentots are almoft extirpated,
yet it fometimes happens that flaves run away
and hide themfelves, and that chiefly in the
mountains. But it is very uncommon for a fol
dier or failor to run into the country, as he would
eafily be difcovered there. When an uncon
verted flave runs away and is taken, he is beaten
by his mafter or the officers of the police ; but
if a Chriftian deferts from the company's fervice,
he is hanged. The money laid out in the pur
chafe of the former, faves him from death, but
the eftabUfoed laws do not fpare the latter.
For the ufe of the foldiers in the citadel, cooks
are taken into it, who drefs viduals, and feU
them out in portions to the foldiers. Every
T 4 foldier

28p THE CABE, 1773.
foldier receives from the company three pounds
of bread twfcp a vyeek.
Every foldier pays out of his wa^'ftwo ftiyers
per month tq the courier for boots, and is be
fides obliged to keep guard for, hinri.
Thofe wretches that are guilty pf beftiality,
are not put to their trial, or imprifoned, buf
are Immediately drowned;: a|s being unworthy to
appear^ before tfie judge, or to be vifited by a
clergyman. In this manner a -flave was noiy
executed. The fifcal is Ipdependent in his office, not
being fubordinate to the governor, and accopnt-
^ble only to the diredors ip Holland. When
dUputes and contentions arife between burghers
or others, he fines them, ,. The fine here is not
prpportioned to the crime pfthe offenders, but,
for the rnoft part, fuited to their circuraftances^
The fifcal therefore, to whom thefe fines, furnifh
a confiderable revenue, treats turbulent and of
fending perfons as a phyfician does a plethoric
patient, pf whom he always draws blood In pro
portion as.the ftrength of his habit wUl perpnit.
Conftantia, confifting pf two farms, called
Great and Little Conftantia, which are fituate4
belovy the eaft-fide of Table Mountain, is cele
brated for its highly delicious wine, known by
the name of Conftantia or Cape wine, which i^
¦¦' '¦¦-'¦'  ¦¦ ' fold

THE CAPE, 1773. 281
fold ip Europe at fo high a price. This wine
is extremely fweet, agreeable, and lufcious, and
only fit for the delfert, as, on account of its fweet
nefs, if drank in abundance, it lies heavy on the
ftomach. Ofthe red wine, about fixty pipes are
made, and of the white about ninety j yet the
.vintage here, as in other places, is different in
different years. Thefe two farms were for a
long time the only fpots which, by reafon't)f their
fituation, could produce this delicate wine ; But
lately fome other farms in this diftrid, and in a
few other places, have been able to bring their
wines to the fame degree of excellence. But as
the company has referved to itfelf the exclufive
fale of the Conftantia wine, which confequently
is confidered as contraband, and is not to be
bought or tranfported to Holland under that
name by individuals, they have hit upon the
expedient of giving their wine, which in point
of goodnefs does not yield to Conftantia, the
name of Mag wine (or Stomach) which in gene
ral is fold to the naval officers of foreign nations
cheaper than the Conftantia wine itfelf.
It is remarkable, that tiie governor increafes
his revenue by every pipe of wine purchafed on
the account of the company. The company
ufuaUy pays forty rixdoUars for every pipe, and
the feller gives a receipt for forty, but receives
no more than twenty-feven rixdoUars, three be

ing

282 THE CAPE, T773.
ing deduded for the clergyman's lythe. Ordi
nary wine is fometimes fold at the rate of ten
rixdoUars a pipe, as was the cafe one year that
I was at the Cape. As a pipe contains about
one hundred and twelve gallons, thewine is con
fequently very cheap. In like manner other per
fons in office make confiderable profit on every
thing that paffes through their hands, which they
are indeed often obliged to do, as their falaries
cannot fupport them in a country where moft
of the neceffaries of life are many times dearer
than they are In Europe,- Thus, while the
governor makes ten rixdoUars of every pipe of
wine that is fold, other officers find their ad
vantage in giving leave of abfence to people
who receive pay from the company without do
ing any fervice for it. Some make their for
tunes by falfe weights, others by damaged goods,
A foipwreck fills the pockets of many. In con
fequence of the rapacity of the captains and their
mates, the failors feldom get their due. The
foldiers muft yield fomething to their officers.
The fick muft ftarve for the fupport of many
that are in health, and the defund muft leave
part of their effeds to the firft comer.
The governor this year caufed a hot-houfe to
be built in the company's garden for pine-appks', ,
This fruit, fo delicate at Batavia, could not
?nive hpre at the n^turity and high flavour that it

THE CAPE, 1773. 283
it does in the Eaft Indies ; in like manner the
Pifang (Mufa Paradifiaca, or Bananas) would
feldom bloffom in the few gardens where it was
cultivated, and never yielded any fruit that was
perfedly ripe and high flavoured.
The American Aloe {Agave Americana) im
ported from the botanic gardens of Europe, was
now cominon on the hills near the town, and
bloffomed finely every year, without attrading
fuch a great concourfe of fpedators as it does at
Amfterdam. The Porcupine, or Yzer-varken {Hyftrix)
whofe ufual food is the root of that beautiful
plant, the Calla jEthiopica, will frequently deign
to put up with cabbages and other vegetables,
by which means he fometimes commits great
depredations in the gardens.
By the Swedifo foips that were newly arrived,
and brought feveral of my friends, I not only
had the pleafure of receiving letters, but alfo the;
joyful tidings of the happy change of govern
ment made laft year in my native country, by
which a great and good king, without bloodfoed,
and in a manner as noble as his condud was
wife, had been able to put an end to the dif-
cord which for many years had divided his fub
jeds, to the great detriment of the king
dom. In

284 THE CAPE, .17.73.
In my various excurfions tb Table Mountain,
I obferved in its crevices both Daffes and Ba
boons. The former I perceived generally near
the top ofthe mountain, juft at fun-rifing, when
they ufed to come out to baflc in the fun. Who
ever wifoed to fooot them, muft cautioufly ap
proach them, and with a quick gun' take his aim
in fuch a manner, as to lay them dead on the
fpot. If the gun was not quick, they would
make off, as ibon as ever the prime, flafoed in
the pan; and, if the animal was not inftantly
killed, it would withdraw, into a crevice, fo that
it could not poffibly be got out. The flefo is
fometimes eaten, and is tolerably well tafted,
The baboons were pretty numerous, and in
deed dangerous to traveUers; for fitting undif-
mayed on the tops of the rocks, where they
w^re frequentiy out of the reach of foot, they
would roll, ^nd even throw down, ftones of all
forts and fizes. The ufe of the gun, however,^
was on thefe occafions indifpenfably neceffary,"
as by means of it they might at leaft be
driven to fuch a diftance, that the ftones they
threw could not do fo much mifchief. It is
curious to obferve them in their flight. With
their cubs on their backs they will often make
aftonifoing leaps up a perpendicular rock ; and
it is but feldom that they can be foot; and even, if

THE CAPE, 1773. 285
if any one of them is foot, it is not eafily
killed. In the town, tame baboons are Ibmetimes kepr,
made faft to a pole. Their agility in clirabing,
leaping, and dodging any one that offers to ftrike
them, is almoft incredible. Though one of
thefe baboons was tied up, ftiU it was impoffible
at the diftance of a few yards to hit him with a
ftone. He would either catch the ftone, like a
ball, in his hand, or elfe avoid it in thc moft fur-
prizing and nimble manner.
The baboonsof Table Mountain, befides pay
ing frequent vifits to, and plundering the gar
dens of the Europeans, feed alfo upon the
pulpous bulbs of feveral plants, which after
digging up, they peel and eat. Heaps 'of thefe
parings were frequently feen left after them,
particularly near the ftones, where they refide.
The Gladiolus plicatus appears to be the rnoft.
favorite plant with thofe that live near the
Cape, for which reafon alfo this plant is known
by the name of the Baboon. The root of this
table Is fometimes boikd and eatgn by the
colonifts. In the fandy plains near the. Cape, the great
white African mole {Marmota Africana) is more
particularly to be found, and that in abundance.
It makes large holes in the ground, over which
it lays littk heaps of mould; thefe holes are
very

286 THE CAPE, 1773,
very inconvenient to people in walking, who
ftep down into them unawares, and are fre
quently in danger of faUihg, The fize of it Is
nearly equal to that of a cat; it is of a fierce
nature, and, when -caught,' defends itfclf with Its
teeth. It feeds on feveral forts of bulbous roots
that grow in thefe fandy plains in abundance,
efpecially Gladiolufes, Ixias, Antholyzas, and Irifesi,
As I have not found this animal delineated by
any author, I have given a figure of it here.
Pennant mentions it at p. 472, under the name
of the African Rat.
Thofe that are but in a fmaU degree acquaint
ed with botany need not be told, that by the
opening and dofing of flowers, one raay fre
quently know with certainty, as from a watch,
what hour of the day it is, as well as if the
weather will be fine or rainy. Plants of this
kind are common on the African hills.
The Moraa undulata, never opens before nine
o'clock in the morning, and before fon-fet, at
four in the afternoon, it clofes again.
The Ixia cinnamomea (Avondbloem, Canelbloem)
opens every evening at four, ahd exhales its
agreeable odours through the whole night.
The approach of rain is announced by thc
flowers of various bulbous plants, fuch as thc
Ixias, Moraas, Irifes, and Galaxias, the tender
flowers of which do not open in the morning, if
3 rain

the cape, 1773. 287
rain is to be expeded foon ; and if a foowcr is
to fall in the afternoon, they clofe fome time
before. ^
Several of thefe likewife diffufe an agreeable
fragrance, particularly at evening or night, fome
what like the odour of pinks, but fainter; fuch
arc the Gladiolus trijlis and recurvus, the Ixja
pilofa, falcata, and cinnamomea .
The Earth-rofe (Aard-roos) was the name
by which the inhabitants both of the town and
country diftinguifoed the Hyobanche fanguinea, a
plant with a low deep-red flower, which is
fcarcely of a finger's length, and has neither
branches nor leaves. It grows in winter and
Ipring in the low fandy plains, both near thc
town and elfewhere towards the fea-foore, puflj-
ing only its clufter of blood-red flowers above
^he ground. The Antholyza ringens, ifiith its
gaping flower, and the ever-varying Gladiolus
plicatus, which decorate thefe fandy plains in
abundance, have their pulpous bulbs deep down
in the fand, and do not raile their flowers much
higher than the Hyobanche above the forface pf
the ground.
During the winter months, three beautiful
Ipecies of Gardenia were blowing in the com
pany's garden. The Gardenia florida was proba--
bly brought hither from the Indies ; at kaft irt
xny travels in .this fauthermoft angle of Africa, I
never

288 the cape, 1773.
never perceived It growing wild any where, but
always planted in the gardens, and that even
among the colonifts far up in the country.
Here It always produced double flowers, and
confequently no fruit, which the Chinefe ufe for
dying yellow. The Gardenia Rothmannia, which
has lefs confpicuous flowers than the former)
ahd of which both the flowers and fruit, on be
ing dried, always turn black. The Gardenia
Thunbergia, with refped: to its bloom, is one of
the fineft trees in the world. This little tree
had been brought a few years before from the
forefts of the country, where it is fcarce, and
grows very flowly. the wood being at the fame
time fo hard, that on this account it is ufed for
clubs. This tree, after it has once begun to
bloffom, continues to blow for feveral months,
producing frefo bloffoms every day, as faft as
the old ones by degrees fade and droop, and at
length fall off. The bloflbm is almoft fix inches
long, white and thick, like the m.oft beautiful
wafo-kather, of an agreeable odour, and does
not lofe its white colour.
If the cold in this country were fevere, and
it were abfolutely neceffary for the inhabitants
to keep fires in their ordinary apartments,
it would be a wretched country indeed, on ac
count of the great want of fuel it labours
under. The wood that is ufed for dreffing
their viduals in the kitchen is nothing but
brufliwood.

THE CAPE, 1773* 289
brufowobd, being got with no lefs pains than
expence from the fraaller trees and bufoes. On
making fome enquiry concerning this matter, I
found that the following were the raoft com
monly employed for this purpofe ; viz. the ftems
and roots of the Protea grandiflora, conocarpa,
fpeciofa, hirta, mellifera, and argentea, a few fpe
cies of Erica, and forae forts of Brunia.
In a country like this, where it is for the moft
part impoflibk to have recourfe to an apothe
cary, and the raedicines fent from Europe ex
tremely dear, the inhabitants had prudently
, thought of trying the Indigenous plants of Af
rica; and among thefe they had difcovered va
nous ufeful reraedies in different difeafes. As
a botanift and phyfician, I was eager to be ac
quainted with thera, and never loft an opportu
nity of adding to the flender ftock of my know
ledge, 'which often proved ferviceable both to
myfelf, and the benevolent'^and obliging colo
nifts. For when any of thefe could Impart to
me. In iheir plain and artlefs way, a flight notion
only of fome ufeful plant, I was able afterwards
to give them a more accurate idea of its true ufe
in curing difeafes.
Many Gerania, with their red and. pulpous.
roots, gTew in the fandy plains near the town ;
and as thefe roots are of an aftrlngent nature,
VOL. I. . U the

39° THE CAPE, 1773.
the country people ufed them in the d^iarrhcea
and dyfentery.
The root of thc Bryonia Africana was em
ployed both as an emetic and a purge.
The roots of the Afclepias undulata (Bitter-
wortel) and Crifpa, as well as the whole of the
herb Eriocephalus, were ufed for the purpofe of
expelling urine in the dropfy.
For the fame purpofe alfo they frequentiy.
made ufe of the root of the Hamanthus coccineus,
inftead of fquills, or the Scilla maritima. This
plant is very coraraon on the hills below the
mountains, and hence has obtained the name of
the Mountain-fquill. Its root is large, white,
mucilaginous, fibrous, and fomewhat acrid.
After being cut Into flices, it is fteeped in vine
gar, and from this is made a kind of weak Oxy-^
mel fcilliticum, which is ufed In dropfies and
afthmas. The Polygonum var batum, which grows in
ditches, and is of an acrid nature, is, like Its
kindred fpecies, ufed for dropfical and fwelled
kgs. A decodion of the leaves of the Crotolaria.
perfoliata was efteemed a powerful diuretic, and,
in confequence of this property, to cure dropfies.
The Piper Capenfe was in forae places ufed
as a ftomachic, inftead of eomnaion pepper ; and thc

THE CAPE, 1773. 291
the Fagara Capenfis (wilde Cardamom) was of
great fervice to many people in the flatulent
cholic, and the palfy.
The juice of the Mefembryanthemum edule was
ufed both as an internal and external remedy :
internally for the dyfentery and the thrufli {aph
tha) In children, and externally for burns.
They were very loud here In the praifes of the
Ofmites camphorina, to which they were pleafed
to give the name of Bellis (or daify ). This plant
has certainly great merit on account of its cam-
"phorated principle, and its ftrong poignant fniell
and tafte, both of which evince it to be of a
highly refolving nature. The plant itfelf is
fometimes ufed externally, applied in bags to
inflammations, and on the ftomach in cholics.
But the fpirit diftilled from it, called Spiritus
bellidis, was highly efteemed in coughs and
hoarfcnefs. In thefe cafes, however, it appeared
to me to be too heating ; but I ufed it more than
once with advantage in the palfy and apoplexy.
The genuine fpecies, or the Ofmites camphorina,
which is the very beft, I found growing on the
top of Table-mountain only ; and as It was ob
tainable only by a few, the Ofmites afierifcoides,
which has a fainter fmell and weaker virtues,
was ufed In Its ftead. As an aftrlngent in the
-dlarrhcea, the rough and auftere bark of the Pro-
tea grandiflqra was frequentiy ufed. In the en-
U 2 virons

£92 THE CAPE, I773.
virons of the town grew likewife various plants,
which the inhabitants had learnt to convert to
their own benefit when aifiided with diforders ;
as, e. g.
The Adonis Capenfis and Atragene veficatoria
(Brandblad) ufed inftead of Cantharides: thefe
plants grew on the fides of the mountains and
hills ; and were exhibited in the fciatica and
rheumatifm. The Adianthum AB.thiopicum (Vrouwehaar), a
fpecies of raaidenhair, grew chiefly on the fides
of the Devil's mountain, and was drank at tea,
in colds and other affedions of the breaft.
The Protea mellifera (Tulp-boom and Zuyker-
bcom) contains in Its calyx a fweet juice,' which,
when infpiffated, was ufed in diforders of the
breaft. The Salicornia fruticofa {Zee koral, or fea
coral) grew on the fea-foore, and notwithftand
ing its brackifo tafte, was eaten by the foldiers
and fome few others as a faUad, dreffed with oU
and vinegar,
Befides the company's difpenfary which was
at the hofpital, another was founded this year in
•the town, by which means the countrypeople
may nbw have a better opportunity of procuring
medicines than they had before, when they were
obliged to purchafe them of the furgeons at a
¦very high price. 8 Fromi

THE CAPE, 1773, 293
From the Oxalis cernua (wilde Syring) which
grew to the greateft fize and in the greateft
abundance of all the fpecies appertaining to this
genus, was prepared a good and ferviceable Sal
acetofella (or fait of wood-forrel).
Hard looper (or Faft-rumier) was a name given,
on account of the fwiftncf^ with which it ran, to
the Carabus lo-guttatus; an infed that frequented
feveral places, and often the highways themfelves.
This animal has the fame property as our Swe
difo gunner (Carahus crepitans), viz. that when
it is purfued or caught, it blows out with vio-.
knee from behind a liquid, which has the ap
pearance of a thin fine fmoke, diffufing itfelf
all around, and if it gets into the eyes, making
thera fmart juft as if brandy were fquirted ipto
them. By thefe means it blinds Its. purfuers,
and gets an opportunity of efcaping, while the
pain lafts, which is about a minute or two.
Fifcfil and Canary-byter were the appellations
given to a Ip^ack and white bird {Lanius collaris)
which was common in the town, and was to be
found in. every garden there. As it was a bird
of prey, though very fmall, it fought its food
among the infeds, fuch as beetles and grafs-
hoppers, which it npt only caught with great
dexterity, but likewife, when It could not con-
fume them aU, it would ftick them up on the
pales of farm-yards tiU it had occafion for them,
V z fp

294 THE CAPE, 1773.
fo that one would have fuppofed them to have
been empaled in this raanner by human beings.
It alfo caught fparrows and canary-birds, but did
not devour any more of them than the brains.
A beautiful green thrufo (Turdus ceilonicus)
frequented the gardens of the town, and de
lighted the ears ofthe attentive burgher with his
fweet fong.
The winter, rains having moiftened the dry
hills In the environs of the Cape, various beau
tiful and elegant flowers of bulbous plants began
to fpring in the month of Auguft. The plants
that were more particularly common were the
Ixia bulbocodium, which .varied much in the fize
and colour of its flowers ; the Moraa collina and
fpathacea, the dependent leaves of which twined
round the feet of the perambulator, and fre
quently threw him down : and the Moraa undu
lata, the flower of which has the appearance of
a large fpider, and attrads th'e flies calkd blue
bottles by its fetid fmeU. The elegant family of
the irifes, however, efpecially the papilionaeea,
excelled all others in the fuperb grandeur of
their flowers, which was greater than can be
expreffed, Caffre-corn (Holcus caffrorum) was cultivated
by fome few people in their gardens as a rarity,
and grew to the height of a man, bearing large
ciufters of flowers; confequently it is a very
profitable

THE CAPE, 1773. 295-
profitable kind of corn, but requires a great deal
of heat.
The Mirabilis dichotoma (Vieruurs bloem, or
four o'clock flower) was planted In a few gar
dens, both for the beauty of its flowers, and its
fingular quality of clofing them every evening at
four o'clock.
Among the various forts of fifo that appeared
on the tables at the Cape, were the Chimara
ialloryncbus (Dodfkop or Jofeph) the flefo of which
is white and well-tafted ; and the Raja miraletus
(or Rock).. The Raja terpedo too (caUed here
Trill vifcb) was fometiraes caught In the harbour,
but not brought to table.
PeKcans with their large claws, called here
Kropgans (Pelecanus onocrotalus), which are not
fcarce on the coaft, were alfo kept in a tame
ftate, and Uved on fifo, and food of a fimllar
nature, bythe water-fide.
Of the Reftio dichotomus ( Beefem-riet ) brooms
were made to fweep the floors with.
The fingular name of King of Candia was
given by the inhabitants to the Hamanthus coc
cineus and puniceus, one of the largeft ahd moft
beautiful flowers that made their appearance to
wards winter on tbe hiUs of the Cape, exhibiting
in* ftately pomp its blood-red ciufters of flowers
that grew clofe to the ground, and bare of leaves,
which, previoufly to the blowing ofthe plant, had
y 4 withered

2g6 THE CAPE, 1773'
withered and difappeared. After the flowers,
comes the fruit ; and this is fucceeded . by the
leaves alone, which are but two in number, and
lie down flat on the ground, like thofe of the
Amaryllis ciliaris : which latter plant, with its
leaves fringed with black halns, grew all bver
this diftrid, though it was never once fcpn to
bloffom. Befides the chameleon, which changes its co
lour, there were two lizards, very common on the
hills near the town 5 the Lacerta ftellio and orbi
cularis, fitting every where on the ftones, and
balking in the fun. Both of them made a hi
deous appearance with their protuberant points,
and when any body approached them, ran quickly
dowri under the ftones to hide themfelves.
The Hottentots generaUy ekd a chief, whom
they caU captain ; and as they pretend to be
in alliance with the Dutch Eaft-India company,
the captain wliom they have ekded. Is to be
confirmed by the governor at the Cape. One
of thefe captains was now come to town, attended
by a few Hottentots, to be confirraed in his new
dignity, and, agreeably to ancient cuftora, re
ceive fome prefents. -As a token of his autho
rity, he is prefented with a ftick, mounted with
a large brafs head, on which are engraved the
company's arms. The captain heads the troops
when they take " the field, either againft thelf
eneraies,

TliE CAPE, 1773. 297
enemies, or for the purpojp of hunting wild
beafts, on which occafion he alfo throws the firft
fpear. In other refpeds, very little more re
gard is foewn to hira than to the reft ; and the
chief difference between them feems to be, that
he commonly wears either a calf's or a tiger's
fkin, while the reft are clad In flieep-fl<ins.
In winter, when the north-weft wind blows
ftormy into Table-bay, whales are fometimes
driven In. One of thefe fifo had lately been caft
on foore dead. It was above two fathoms long.
From its back, which lay above the water, they
cut out'large pieces. In order to extrad train-oil
from the blubber.
In like manner, during this feafon, there ar-.
rived at the numerous Iflands that lie round about
the Cape, a great number of feals, which in this
part ofthe world, are commonly called fea-dogs,
becaufe while they are bounding up and down
in the water, they bear fome refemblance to a
dog. There they breed at this time, and bring
up their young ones, and are caught in abun
dance for the company, for the purpofe of mak
ing train-oil. It is fingular that the fca-dog,
which is, in fad, a myine animal, cannot fwim
by nature, as foon as it comes into the world.
It is the fame cafe with this as with fome kinds
cf birds, which cannot fly till they are taught by
the mother. Thus it is that the fea-dog learns of

igS THE CAPE, 1773.
of its mother to fwim. When the young feal is
arrived at a certain age, his mother catches him
by the neck and throws him Into the water, where
he plafoes about, tiU at length he begins to fink :.
the mother then catches him up again, and thus
makes hira try feveral times, till at laft he can
fwim and go out to fea.
The farming out of wine and viduals produces
to the company a confiderable revenue. The
forraer was now, according to annual cuftoria,
fold by audion on the laft day of Auguft. And
he who bids higheft becomes the farmer-general
of the wine-cbntrad, having the exclufive right
of feUing wine, not only to ftrangers and to the
officers of the Dutch foips, but alfo to the inns
and taverns. The owners of vineyards, it is true,
may difpofe of their wine to the burghers at the
Cape for their own confumption; but neither
they nor any one elfe are fuffered, under a heavy
penalty, to fell a fingle drop of it to any other
perfon. By this means the wine comes very
high to foreign nations, and at the taverns a bot
tle cofts feveral times as much, as it does to
private peopk at their own houfes. The farmer
of the wines has alone ehe power of retailing
out wine himfelf, or of permitting others, who
keep inns, for a certain confideration to do the
fame. The revenue from thc wine contrad
amounts yeatiy to between 30 and 40,000 gilderS.
Thc

THE CAPE, 1773. 299
The viduaUing contrad is conduded in a
different manner. He that bids the loweft at
the audion is appointed the farmer general of
this monopoly ; viz. he that ofters to furnifo thc
company with frefo meat for its fliips and its
Other exigencies at the loweft price. From this
contrad. It is true, the company receives no pe
cuniary advantage ; but then it gets all its meat
at a much lower price, than it otherwife could
pofliibly be obtained. It is in confequence of
this contrad alfo, that the burghers as well as
ftrangers, are obliged to pay an extravagant price
for butchers meat. Thus whilft the company
get butchers raeat for two doits per pound, the
burghers muft pay at the rate of four or more,
and ftrangers two ftivers : and while a bullock,
fit for flaughter, is comraonly fold for five Dutch
rixdoUars, ftrangers muft pay at the rate of ten
or more. This contrad is farmed out for one,
two, three, five, or feven years ; and certain
fpots near Groene-kloof are ceded to the con-
trador for pafture-grounds without any feparate
charge. On this account, as weU as on that of the
language, which ftrangers do not always under
ftand, every nation whofe foips anchor here,
is obliged to have a commiffary or broker, who
manages their concerns, and alfo contributes, as far as

300 THE CAP-E, 1773.
as in him lies, to raife the price of every article
to thera.
Wheat, when it is wanted by foreign nations
for exportation, is only to be had of the com
pany. The French foips frequently exported It
in the courfe. of this and the laft year to the
Ifle of France.
Many peopk, and particularly the failors,
inftead of butter, ufed to purchafe the fat that
had been melted down frpm the large tails of
the African foeep. One of thefe tails, weighing
twenty pounds, confifts of nothing but fat, which
is the higheft luxury bf the Hottentos. This
fat is laid down in tubs with fome fait and
pepper, and ufed at fea with bread in lieu of
butter. Oftriches eggs were mofily purchafed by the
naval officers. They are in general the perqui
fites of flaves, who. In tending their catde, fre
quently find places in the fands where the
oftriches have laid their eggs. During the time
of incubation, a dozen, and fometimes even a
fcore, of thefe eggs (though for the moft part
fewer) are to be found in one place. The flaves
always ule the precaution not to take away the
eggs with their hands (in which cafe the birds,
who perceive it by the fcent, are apt to q'Uit thp
neft) ; but by means of a long ftick they rake
them out of the neft as faft as the birds lay
thpm.

THE CAPE, 1773, 3P1
them, Thefe eggs fold in general for a fl<elling
a piece, or about fixpence Englifo. They are
fitteft, and moft ufed for cakes and oeufs perdus ;
and they are particularly good, when eaten with
a large quantity of butter. One fingle egg is
fufficient for feveral people. And whereas hens
eggs will feldom keep for any length of time on
board of foip, and require great pains tobe taken
with them in order to turn them every day,
oftriches eggs are eafily preferved at fea, oA ac
count of their fize, and of their thick and ftrong
foeU. The Camphor tree {Laurus camphora) brought
from the Eaft Indies, and planted here, throve
very weU, though no great pains were taken to
increafe the nuraber of thera, or coUed any
camphor from them.
In like manner Turmeric {Curcuma longa)
was cultivated on a fmall bed in the company's
garden ; the root was fcarcely ever ufed here,
though It is fo much In requeft in Europe for
the purpofe of dying, and in the Eaft Indies
enters into almoft all .their difoes.
During the whole time that I ftaid at the
Cape (alraoft a year and a half) I never ob
ferved that any public fair was kept here. In
fad, fairs are not ufual in this country. In
their ftead, public audions are the more fre
quently made for all forts of foreign merchan
dize, efpecially fuch as is brought here from the
various

302 THE CAPE, 1 773.
various fadorles belonging to the company in
the different parts ofthe Eaft Indies.
The burghers in the town generally make an
agreement with fome of the furgeons in the
hofpital to attend thera and their famUies, and
furnifo them with medicines. This Is the raore
neceffary, as they have always a nuraber of
flaves, and fometimes dangerous epideraic dif
tempers prevail among them. This circum-
ft-ance is the caufe that the phyficians and fur
geons, who come as ftrangers to this place, apd
ftay forae tirae at it, are fcarcely pver called ip,
unlefs they can work miracles. My medical prac
tice In the town confequently was not very exten
five; neither, indeed, did I ftrive to enlarge ir,
for fear of being Impeded in my botanical pur-
fuits. On the other hand, I had the greater
opportunities of affifting the country people in
my medical capacity, who were both in greater
want of my aid, and more grateful to me for
it. Almoft always, and every where, I obferved
that ray medicines aded with the greateft effi
cacy as well as certainty upon the flaves, whofe
conftitutions were not fo much impaired by Im
proper diet, and were, befides, lefs accuftomed
to the ufe of remedies.
Though flaves are not ufuaUy inftruded in
the dodrines of Chriftianity, nor their children
baptized, the Dutch Eaft-India company takes care

THE CAPE, 1773. 303
care that the children born in the lodges of
their own female flaves are baptized, and in
fome meafure inftruded in the Chriftian religion.
The reafon for this, perhaps, may be, that moft
of thefe children have European fathers, to whom
they frequently bear the moft ftriking refem
blance. The children thus iffued from Europeans, I
had frequent opportunities of feeing married to
Black women. Their progeny, however, were
not always like each other, I once faw iffued
from fuch a couple, one fon, who was black,
with large eyes, and refembled his mother;
another, who was rather of a white complexion,
but varied with black fpots fcattered up and down,
and, upon the whole, bore a greater refemblance
to the father ; and a girl, that was half black.
When the Negrpes are wounded in any part
of their bodies, and thefe wounds heal again,
the fears at firft are white, but the fkin after
wards grows black by degrees.
I faw an old Hottentot here, who was very
much afflided with an eryfipelas in his leg.
The eryfipelas difcovered itfelf by its ufual
blulfo-red colour; and on the black ground it
had a very frightful appearance. Otherwife it
was very rare to find any of thefe people with
blemifoes on any part of their bodies, and rauch
more fo, to fee any among them crippled. As
they

304 .^' THE CAPE, 1773^
they not only live fparingly, but alfo on Urf^
feafoned and unfalted food, they are in general
fubjed to few difeafes. The changes of the
climate are alraoft the only caufes of the rheu
matifms and fevers which fometiraes prevail
araong them ; yet, ftill thefe diftempers are
much more fcarce among the Hottentots that
enjoy their liberty, than amiong thofe who have
entered into the fervice of the Dutch colonifts.
As far as I had an opportunity of travelling
laft fummer, both to the northward and eaft
ward, in this extenfive country, I met with but
fmall remains of the once more or lefs nume
rous Hottentot nations, which, as late as tbe
beginning of this century, ftiU Inhabited thefe
vaft plains. It is true, as faft as the colonifts
fpread over the country in gradual fuccefllon,
the, Hottentots have been obliged to retire, and
make room for the dweUings and cattle of the
Europeans; but it is an undoubted fad alfo,
that the fmall-pox, a new and to them unknown
difteraper, has, like a peftiknce, exterrainated
the greater part of them. Now there are only
a few fcattered villages {kraals) ~or focieties of
thera to be found. In which ftate they either live
by themfelves, or are taken into fervice at the
company's pofts and grazing-farms, or elfe by
the colonifts themfelves.' For the moft part,
thefe focieties, efpecially in the vicinity of the
Cape,

THE. CAPE, 1773, 30^
Cape, are far from being nuraerous ; but farther
in the country they are both more populous and
more wealthy. The few reraains of them that
ftUl exift, have, in fome Inftances, retained the
naraes of their tribes ; but more frequently
thofe names are retained which formerly dif
tinguifoed each nation feparately, and are ap
pUed to thc diftrid itfclf. and to the larger
rivers which ran through the country, or form
the limits of it. The better the country was
provided with water, the more populous were
the inhabitants, and the more cattle they pof^
feffed; ftill, however, the whole nation did not
amount to more than a few thoufand men, and
each of their diftrids formed a fraaller or larger
province. The Gunjemans Hottentots were thofe that
lived neareft the Cape, and on the very point'
itfclf; they extended as far as Falfe Bay, the
Hottentcts Hdand -Mountain, and from thence
to the left as far as Stellenbofch. This country is
extenfive, but confifts in a great meafure of a
fandy unfruitful foil. Thefe were the firft, who,
ih barter for Certain merchandizes, ceded to the
Dutch Eaft India company a trad of their
country ; and of thefe there are but a few, and
I had alraoft faid none, now remaining.
The Kokoquas nation inhabited the country
that bordered upon the Cape on the northern
VOL. I, X fide,

306 THE CAPE, 1773.
fide, in the environs of Groene kloof. In my
firft expedition, which was direded towards that
fide, I met with feveral of this nation ftlU in
being, and even received from the company's
pofts two of thera to attend me on the journey.
Their country, like that of the preceding tribe,
is low, level, and fandy, is much in want of
water, and was formerly not very populous^
neither have the colonifts been able to cultivate
every part of it. It extends as far as the foore
of the ocean ; and has a few fmall hiUocks dif
perfed over its furface.
In continuing my journey to the northward,
and to Saldahna Bay, I vifited the Suffaquas Hot-
tentbtSj ,fome of whom were ftUl remaining.
As the country is every where low, fandyy,
and in want of frefo water, this nation was
alw^s very confiderable, and fubfifted by
grazing. The Hottentots that live ftUl farther to the
northward, and are defcended from tribes that
were once numerous, I had not the opportunity
of vifiting in this excurfion, but proceeded more
towards the mountains in the eaft, and the
trads of land that lay beyond them. How
ever, from the inhabitants in thefe parts I got
particular information concerning the neigh
bouring, nations, which I was in hopes of vifit-
ing at fome future period. From thefe I learned,
3 that

THE CAPE, 1773. 307
that all along the fea-coaft, and round about
St. Helena's Bay, in a low, fteril, and fandy
trad, the Odiquas nation borders ori the Suffaquas.
The next neighbours to thefe are the Chirigri-
quas, a more populous and wealthy nation, which
inhabits a fine grazing country, watered by the
great Elephant's River: apd thefe again have for
their neighbours two great and famous nations,
the Little Namaquas, who live on the fea-coaft,
ind the Great Namaquas, who refide farther from
it. In the excurfion I made the preceding fum
mer, I vifited, in going, and returning, almoft alj
the nations that once inhabited the eaftern trad or
the coaft of Caffraria. After pafling the mountain
called the Hottentots Holland Mountain, I came
to a hilly and mountainous trad of land, which
was inhabited as fai^ as the hot-bath by the
Koopman's nation; next to thefe, on the fea-coaft,
were the Sonquas Hottentots, whom on my return
homewards I had to my left. The country of
thefe latter is rather barren, and not much fub
jed to the Incroachments of the Europeans. '
Next to the Koopmans is the Heffaquas na
tion; of this but few remain. And more to
wards the eaft, near the great and deep river
Zonder end, is the country once inhabited by the
Danqtlas Hottentots. X 2 Geuriquas

3°? THE CAPE, 1773.
_ Gauriquas land extends more to the north-
caftward : this is .a very fine, country, and
abounds in grafs; it Is watered by a confider
ably large river, called Goud's Rivier, and was
formerly very populous. , ,,^ ;
Travelling further on, and following , the
fhores of the oceaq,- one comes to the Houtni
quas Hottentots, who in their bUly and. wopdy
country have remained the longeft foeltered frprri
the Europeajis ; and had hitherto fuffered fp '
little from their encroachments, that of all the
Hottentpts I had as yet feen, no nation was
more confiderabk in point of numbers, tiU I
came to Kamtous River.
Farther to the northward, and near the large
valley, through which one ., m'jft pafs, iri order
to go to Lange-kloof and the adjacpnt country,
occurs the diftrid of .the Ataquas Hottentots,
which is mountainous and abounds Jn grafs. ,
.Still farther to the eaftward, following the.
coaft, bne finds firft the Kamtours nation, thpn .
the Heykoms, and laftly the Caffres. All : thefe,
nations are in poffeffion of hUly and extremely
rich meadows, interfeded by many, and thofe*
frequently confiderabk rivers, abounding in fifh.
And as thefe people have not hitherto been fub-,
jed to the encroachrpents of thp colonifts, though
a few grazing farms have already been laid, put
Heie,

THE CAPE, 1773. 309
here, they are not only numerous, but alfo rich
and abound greatly in cattie.
All thefe Hottentots, whom I vifited in their
own country, agreed in this particular, that they
were moftly foort, thin, and flender, with pro
minent cheek bones, flat nofes, protuberant
mouths, peaked chins, crooked backs, and
pot-beUies. The colour of their fkins was
yellowlfo, but more or lefs dark from greafe
and dirt. Their hair is of a fingular nature,
curling like wool, and on raoft of them as foort
as the knaps of frize cloth, but fometiraes,
though feldora, cf a finger's length, when it
looks like twlfted yarn ; but few of them have
any veftiges of a beard ; and when they have, it
is curUng like their hair. The other fex always
have their breafts hanging down to a confider
able length. AU of them are mad after brandy
and tobacco, and find a pecuUar pleafure In filth
and ftench. They befmear therafelves with
greafe, and powder therafelves all over with the
fetid fubftance called Bucku, or the powdered
leaves of the Dicfma. A foeep's fkin thrown
over their fooulders, and another over their
loins, with a fmall bag for the mak, and a
fquare bit of fltin for the female fex, conftltute
almoft the whole of their apparel. Befides
this, they alfo wear on their heads a flcin-cap,
and, by way of ornament, rings of Iron
X3 or

31 0 THE CAPE, 1773.
or copper roupd their arms, ftrings of beads
round their wrifts, and rings of leather round
their legs. T^e huts, in which they live, are
low and fma,ll, ant^ convex like a hay-ftack.
They always lit fquat on their hams ; are nim-
hip and adive, but, ip general, extremely lazy.
'l|heir furniture is fcanty and mean. Their
difoes are tortoife-fhells. The water they have
occafion for they keep In the guts of animals,
and milk in bafkets and goat-fkins. Their
wants, it is true, are not great ; neverthelefs their
pbverty difplays itfelf In every particular.
The Galenia Africana was known under the
appellation of Kraal-bofch, and in fome places
was ufed for fences about the inclofures for their
cattle, whpn no other bufoes fit for the purpofe
were to be had.
Almonds were fold here, not by the weight,
but; by the hupdred and thoufand. They were
bought up in great quantities by of^cprs whp
went to Batavia, where they could fell them to
advantage. Strawberrips (Fragaria vefca) had been
brought from HoUand, and planted out in beds.
in the gardens round the town. They werp tranf^
plapted every third year. They fold at a high
price, and to great advantage, and were well
tafted, though they had not fo deUcious a flavour
as thofe that grow in Europe. Mulberry-

THE CAPE, 1773. 311
Mulberry-trees {Morus nigra) were found at
feveral of the farms near the town, and pro
duced ripe and fine fruit, which however was
feldom feen in the markets.
In the beginning of September the flaves
ufed to weed the corn-fields, both the bariey,
which is ripe and reaped In Noveraber, and the
wheat, which is reaped in Deceraber.
An unfortunate accident happened about this
time. A huntfman who had accompanied Major
Baron vow Prehm, the comraander ofthe gar
rifon here, in a foort excurfion into the country,
loft one of his hands in confequence of the
burfting of his gun, and was brought into the
citadel. He had taken aira at a Koor-haen, and
probably loaded his piece too high. Accidents
of this nature are not uncommon in this coun
try, where found and good guns are extreme
ly fcarce. Many other people had loft a
hand in the fame manner; and the late Go
vernor Tulbagh, who from the condition
of a private foldier had rifen to the higheft
poft of honour, had loft one of his eyes by the
burfting of a gun. The fame misfortune had
Uke to have befallen me alfo this winter, as I
was foooting in the harbour at fome of the
pelicans, which fly over it every evening in large
flocks. On the firing of the gun, the whok
ftock was broken into a thoufand fjplinters,
X 4 feveral

312 THE cape, 1773.
feveral of which wounded my face and hands.
To prevent fuch an. accident from ha^ppening
m me again, the celebrated Captain Ekeberg,
who commanded a Swedifo foip that anchored
this year in the road, prefented me with a hand
fome and found Swedifo gun, which ever after,
during my refidence and travels in Africa and
the ifland of Java, was a fafp and conftant de
fence to me.
I The Loxia Aftrild, on account of its red beak,
was called Rpod-beckje, or Red-beak, and was
found in great numbers in the farraers .gardens.
They ufually flew in large flocks; and Ughted
in the grafs, fo clofe to the. ground that they
could not be feen, though on account of their
multitudes, one was fure to kUl a great raany of
them at ope foot, notwithftanding that it is a
bjrd of the fmalleft fize.
Turtle-doves {Columba riforia) were coramon
in this country, particularly in places .whprp'
there was much under-wood. They were fel
dom eaten by the country people. It is re
markable, that this bird cannot rpmoye from
one place to another without laughing after
wards. This laughing noife, as weU as its coo
ing, always betrays its place of abode. The
flefo of it tafted rather dry.
Green Mountain fwallows {Merops apiafter)
were alfo to be fcen near fbme of the farnfis, and

THE cape, 1773. 313
and that frequentiy in the greateft numbers.
Thefe birds are extreraely beautiful in their
yellow and fea- green attire. In the day tirae
they feek their food, which cpnfifts of infcds.
In the fields ; but In the evenings they return
in flocks, chirping in fuch a manner as per
fedly to deafen one. They then affemble to
gether by degrees in the gardens, and at length
go to rooft in the branches of orange and other
trees before It grows quite dark.
The month of September was already begun,
and the beautiful and flowery fpring making its
appearance, put mein mind of preparing foralono-
journey up the country. But here raore obfta
cles and difagreeable circuraftances threw them
felves in my way than I could ever have ima
gined. The -trifling viaticum I had brought
with rae from Europe, I had long ago con
fumed, and in the feventeen months which I
had paffed here, I had received no fupplies from
HoUand. At Amfterdam, indeed, I had great
and powerful patrons in the Burgomafters Ryk
Temmink and van der Poll, together with the
Privy counfellors van der Deutz and ten Ho-
VEN, by the perfuafions and at the expence of
whom I had undertaken this long voyage ; but
to my great misfortune, both of the governors,
fuLBAGH and Rheede van Oudshoorn, to
^hom I was ftrongly recommended, apd from
whom

314 THE CAPE, 1773.
whom I had reafon to exped every fupport,
had departed this life, the one dying previoufly
to my arrival at the Cape, and the other in the
voyage thither. I was therefore a ftranger, in
an unknown place, and left to myfelf and
to my fate till my friends at Amfterdam could
bc informed of my fituation, and endeavour to
better It. Misfortunes feldom come fingle ; and
I had now ray double portion of afflidion. For
when I intended to take up ray falary from
the corapany, it appearedi that the foip in
which I had arrived, was come without its
mufter-roll. This was therefore firft to be
brought from Europe, before any bne could
receive his pay. When the foip failed from
the Texel, the vifitation officers in their hurry
had forgot to deUver in the mufter-roll, and
the captain to deraand it. The confequence of
this was, that none of all thofe that were
engaged on board the foip, could, during the
fpace of two or three years, either obtain their
pay or kave to go horae. The vifitation offi
cers {kruyd leefers) are two of the company's
fervants of the loweft rank, who are ftationed
in each foip during the time that the foip lies
at anchor in the Texel : thefe people have the
infpedion over every thing that is brought on
board, and the care of providing the foips with
what they want every day, till they go out to
fea,

THE CAPE, 1773. 315
fea. Thefe, who in order to keep account of
the officers and crew, had the mufter-roll in
their poffeffion, were interefted fcoundrels, and
more intent upon being treated and bribed, and
feUing and bartering their cheefe and butter, than
they were fober and vigilant In the performance
of their duty.
The preceding year I had been obliged to
contrad debts to a confiderable araount, and
had now no other refource left than to increafe
them, efpecially if I were to be enabled to
undertake another expenfive journey into the
country, and not to remain an Idle fpedator at
the Cape. I therefore again had recourfe to
M. Bergh, the fecretary of the poUce, who
had not only hitherto kindly affifted me with
his purfe, but alfo generoufly opened it to me on
this occafion, and thereby enabled rae to make
another excurfion into the interior part of the
fouthernmoft point of Africa.
My equipage was in moft refpeds the fame
as that of the foregoing year, with this differ
ence, that inftead of the old broken cart, I had
a new one, which was tilted with faU-cloth. T
was alfo now the fole poffeffor of it, and
avoided being incumbered with the ferjeant and
gardener, who the year before greatly contri
buted to render a fmall cart ftiU more infufiicient
for my wants. Befides boxes, paper, amuni-

tion

INDEX,

A.
AARD-root, 287
Aard varken, 137
' Aapies rivier, 199
Accumulation of fand in har
bours, 2, J-

Anthyllis, 176
Antelopes, 14J, 146, 1516
 hom, 206
Anys wortel, 149 '
Ao rivier, 1 83

Adianthum iEthiopium, 292 Aphthje, 291

Adonis Capenfis, 292
.^fenlus hippocaftanum, 3
Afric'an rat, 286
Agave Americana, 25, 285
Air in HoUand, 26
Albuca major, 146
Alder, 279
Almonds, 310
Alfliond tree, 27^
Aloe (gum) 171
,  perfoliata, 171
 fuccotrina, 2 1 3
 tree, 171
. — : — American, 2^, 283
Amaryllis ciliaris, 296
Amfterdam, 9, 13, 25, 64
^Animals, domeftic, 135
Anife, the root of, 149
Ant-eater, 137
Antholyza ringens, 287
^,91., I.

Apples, 103
Aponogeton diaftychon, 156
Apothecary's (hop, 52
Apricots, 279
Arbours, 164
Arftopus echinatus, 128,
234
Arduina bifpinpfa, 163, 1 6 4;
190
Ark, 269
^Arnheim, 1 52
Afcites (in Iheep) '164
Afclepias, 167, 290
Afparagus Capenfis, 244
Aflagay, 1 81, 205
.  wood, i8t
Afterias caput Medufas, 24^
Afthma, 291
Atragene veficatoria, ^74^
292
Y jAttaguai-

INDEX.

Attaquaskloof Hottentcts,
Auftions, 48, 97, 440, i6o
Auge, io;, 183, 184
Avond bloem, 286
B.
Bafeoojis, 284
Babians kloof, 266
Badenhorst's farm, 216
B.a;cK, 218
Bags, leathern, 178
Balliftes, 89
Bamboos, 116
Baptifm, 140, 26%
Barley, 129
Balkets, 204
Bath (warm) 160, 215
Batteries, izi
Bay Falfo, 269
Bay tree, 263

Bergh, 31^
Eergius, 105, 21,9
Bicistre, 43
Bills, 239
 transferable, 74, 110
Bitumen, 166
Bitter wortel, 290
Blaar-ziekte, 1 59
Blauwe Jean, 64
Bles Moll, Blinde Moll,
263
Bloedziekte, ijj
Blood, decoftion to purify,
128
Bloody ficknefs, 151
Boards, 252
Bois de Boulogne, 51
Boomflang, 156
Booter rivier, 217 »
Borbonia, 128, 243
Bofliiefmen, 264

Beaumont, Dirtflor, 69, Bota, 166, 176, 189, 19;

71
Bearas, 252
.Bedns, 207
Bed at 7aih, 46
Beer, 130
Bcefem-riet, 116, 294
Beetle, 149

Bottles, Z04
Botanic garden, j-8-,-34
Brabeium ftellatum, 129,
215
Brack fontein, 143
Brack rivier, 176
Brand blad, 292

Beds of mountains, 223, 224, Brandfteeg, 159
235 Brand-ziekte, 168
Berg rivier, 152 Breede rivier, 159, 213
Beaftiality, 280 Bread tree, 201
Betula Alnus, 279 Bread, 182, 20^ 280
Befantjes, 97 Breaft, Hottentots, 1 82
Bellis, 291 Broker, 299 Brunia,

I N D E Xi

Brunia, 289
B&UYNS, 268
Bruyntjes rivier, 167
Bryonia Africana, iz8, 290
Bucku, 170
Buffeljagts rivief; 1 68
Buffalo's flefh, 192, 195
Buffalo bull, 1 84, I S7
Buffaloes, wild, 19^, 20;
Bulbous plants, 4, 14
Bupleurum giganteum, 158;
BurmannuSj 15, 16, 24,
25, 64, 105
Burghers, 139, 140, 362
Burns, 291
Burial, 95:, 13;, 139
Butchers meat) contrad^ for,'
299
Butter, 122, 191, 251

Cabeljauws rivier, 203
Cabinet of Natural Hiftory,-
37
Caffres, 204, 206, 208,
308
Caffre corn, 294
Caille, M. de la, lor,
222
Calla iEthiopica, 128,- 283
Calodendron, 213
Calvary mount, 51

Camaffie hout, i6'g
Camels for ftiips, 9
Camenaflie land, 2 1 1
Camphor, Camphor tree;
301
Camtous rivier, 203, 308
 Hottentots, ii.
Canals, 12
Cancer, a difeafe, 2 1 1
Cancer fquilla, 63
— — — arftos, 240
Canelbloem, 286
Canarie byter, 293
Candles; 167
Cannons, 127
Canna bnfti, 991
Cannabis fativa, i88
Cap, Hottentot's, 177;
178
Capficum, 234
Capra, 145, 197, 206
Captain, 296
Cape of Good Hope,- 99,
100, 118, 119
Cape town, 121, 138, 228
Carabus lo-guttatus, 293
Cardamom, wilde, 291
Carnival, 50
Carrow fieldj 163, 21 1;
2i2
Caftration, 147, 163
Caftor-oil, 149
Caftanien wilde, 1 2
Cattle, 123, 205
Y 2 Catfie/

I N I) E X.

Cattle, disorders of, 151,
6t8, 20^
Cat-filver, 1 65
Cauliflower, 234
Cavia Capenfis, 165, 166
Chameleon, 296
CharaHton, 51
Charite, Hopital de, 43
Cherry trees, 104
Chefnuts, wild, 129,, 21 J
Cheefe, 250
Chimsra callorynchus, 95
Chinefe, 99
Chirigriqqas Hotfentots, 307
Chimnies, 1 1 1
Chiming clocks, ;, 12
Church, IIO, 118
Chryfomela, 210, 214
Churn, churning, 122, 145',
198
Citadel, 106, 121
Clouds, 1 35
Clothes, 9^
Cliffortia, 243
Clute, 215
Company's poft, 1 68
Conftantia, 134, 28a
Cook, Captain, 316
Colutea veficatoria, i6a
Coaches, iz
Coccus, 21 1
Cofiee, 7, 27, 129
Cohabitation, 137

Coins, 230
Colleftions of Natural Hifi.
tory, 3, 15, 18, igy 34.J,
37. 44,, -52,. 59, 64
Colic, 167
College, naval, 38
Coluber, 1 96
Columba riforia, 512
Cold, 112, 122, 187
Commodities, fale of, 11 j
Commiflary, 299
Contradi for vyine, &c. 2518
Cooperage, 1 1 x
Cooks, 311
Copenhggenaij.Cough, 292
Courier, 2 So.
Cows, igz, 250
Craffula tetragona, 202-
Crifis in fevers, 92
Crooked river, 20Q, 201
Crotalaria peiibliata, 290,
Crows, 149
Cucupibers, 156.
Currant tree, IQ4
Curcuma, 301
Curtifia, 181 J i
Cuftoms, officers of, ji, 3J,
101
Cuttle fifh, 146
Cyder, 3 a
Cypei;us textilis, i^j
Cyproea moneta, 177

U.

INDEX.

D.
toances, 204'
Daffes, 165, 2 84
Daffes p— . 168
Deaths, accidental at Paris,
48
Deaths on board of fhip, 98,
99
Va.v der Deutz, 313
Devil's mountain, 222, 223
Diaz, Bartholomew, 100
Diep rivier, 188, 199, 20t,
211
Diet of the fick, 94
Diarrhoea, 202, 228, 2-go,
29 1
Diofma, 170
Difpenfary, 292
Diforders, prerentioB of, 93
- on board of fliip,
91
Difa, 220
Divers, 145
Dodlkop, 295
Dogs, 246
Dolphins, 91
Domeftics, 102'
Dorn rivier, 2 1 1
toraught oxen, 181, 189
Drakenftein, 25:4
Dropfy, 129 .
¦ ¦- in fheep, 1 64
Droskis farm, 166
©rum, 193 .

Du But, 39
Du Mas, 38, 39
Dubbeltie, 148
Ducks, 144
Dunquas Hottentots, 307
Duynhout, 268
Duy\enhoek's rivier, 169
Dyfentery, 290, zgi

E.
Earth rofe, 287
Ear-rings, 204
Ebb and flood, 8, 61, 62
Ecole de Medicine, 40
^—— Royale veterinaire, 51
— — pratique, 41
Eland, 197
Elands fontein, 197
Elecberg, captain, 312
Elephants warm bath, 214
Elk's fountain, 143, 197
Elfineur, j
EriiANUBL, King, 100
Emetics, 128, 290
Emollient remedies, 128
, Enamelled eyes, 55
Enemy, provifttjn againft,
• i?7
Engine at Marl!, 60
Equipage for travelling, 144,
315
Eriocephalus, 13S ,
Erica, 289
3 Eryfipelas,

I N E! E X.

Eryfipelas, 303)
Effabofch, 266
Euclea undulata, 202
Euphorbia, 145, 152
Examination, medical, 41,
Exercife, military, 253
Execution of malefaftdrs, 14,
263, 278, 280
Exocoetus, 90
Jlyes, difeafes of, 100
Ezelsjagt, 211

F.
Fagar? Capenfis, 167,291
Fair at Amfterdam, S4,
301
Falco fecretarius, 148
Falfebay, 269
Farms, farm houfes,' 122,
251,257
Farmers, 126, 253, 255,
256, '257
Feb rsen, 99
Fences, 165, 234
Fete dieu, 54
Finches nefts," r5o
Fire wood, 233, 289
Fire pitchers, 47
Filing of land,''i79
Fifcal, 280, 293
f ifti, 37, 295'

Flag, hoifting of, 127,
236
Flamingoes, 144, 267, 2691
Flint, 62
Flies, 214
Flying fifli, go
Fodder for horfes, 129'
Fog, 26, 265
Folds for flieep and cattle,
164
Forster, Dr. 316
Fountains, 5, 33
Four and mmty river, 15a
Fowls, 171
Fraftures, 166
Fragaria ¦vefca, 310
Franche hoek, 254
Frere's farm, 199, 200
Fruits, 103, 257
Furlow, 108, 252
Furniture, 256'
Fucus buccinalis, gi, 98,
218

Galaxia, 286
Galena Africana, 310
Gallows, 278
Garden, pleafure, 16, 21,
22, 45, 103, 114, 262
Garden, botanic, 3, 18, 25,
34. 44>S2. S9 ' ¦'
Garden,

INDEX,

Garden, phyfic, 2;, 54, 64
Gardenia, 287, 288
Gatagay-root, 149
Gauriquas Hottentots, 308
Ganfe-kraal, 2 1 1
Geelhout, 169
Geoffroi, 59
Geranium, 128, 289
Gert's houfe, 166
Gethyllis, 116
Gift-borm, 156
Gladiolus, 285, 287
Goats (caprs) 145
Gobelins, 55
Qoldfinch, 249
Gonorrhoea, 128
Goort Vaders bofch, 169,
213
Goofe's kraal, 211
Gaofeberry tree, 104
Gordon, Major, 265
Gouds rivier, 172
Gout, 129
Grandfather's wood, iSg
Grilling, 152
Groene kloof, 299
Gronovius, 19
Groote valley, 172
Groote Dorn rivier, 211
Grub, 105
Guards, French, 53
Guarri bufli, 202
Guaiacum, Afrum, 20.7
Gunner, Swedifh, 293 Y

Gunjemans Hottentots, 305
Oypfum, cryftals of, 167
H.
Haantje, 144
Haartebeeft, 145
Haartebeeft rivier, 159
Ha:manthus coccineus, 290
Hair, 131
Hell, 169
Helfingborg, j
Harbours, 32, 146, 189
Hard-looper, 293
Hare's blood, 202
Harpujrs, 211
The Hague, 1 2 1
Hanglip point, 266
Havre de Grace, 30
Ha 2 en's garden, 2q
Hazel, 104
Hedges, 31, 35, 45, 114,
160, 213
Hemming, 124
Hemp, 188
Heffaquas Hottentots, 307
Hex rivier, 159
Heykoms, 308
Hides, Buffaloes, 195.
HUl, SI
Hippopotamus, 207
Hogs, Chinefe, 216
Holathuria pihyfalis, gj
Holcus Caffroruin, 294
4 HoningkitDO,

V \^

INDEX.

Honingklipp, 172
Honingberg, 172
Honfleurs, 63
Hoof diftemper, 209
Horfes, 142
Hortus Siccus, 1 8
Hofpitality, 138
Hofpitals, 25, 42, 43, 52i
118, 225, 248
Hotel Dien, 43
Hottentots, 130, 131, 170,
173, 174, 177, 178, 179,
180, 181, 182, 183, 187,
189, 192, 196, 198, 199,
202, 203, 206, 207, 263,
264, 296, 297, 303, 310.
tiottentots Hollands kloof,
217
Hottentots figs, 163
Hothoufe, 282
Hout baay, 266
Houthoek, 217
Houtniquas, 175, 196, 197,
3o8>
Houfes, 10, 19, 21, 32, 46,
102, laj, 124, 180, 183,
^ 192, 194
Ten Hoven, 313
Hunting, 247
Hunter, 311
Huts of the Hottentpts, 180,
183, 192
Hyobanche, 287
Hyphoff, 146
Hyftrix, 28

1
Ilex crocea, 169
Ihns, 35
Inteftines of animals, 207
Invalids, hofpital pf, 43
Iris, 286
Iron, 135
 rings, 20"3
Ivory rings, 203
Ixia, 286, 287, 294!,
JackaU's kraal, 19
Jager's farm, 197
Jaffi, 65
Javanefe, 132
Javanefe prince, 134
Javelins, 181
Jonge, Thomas, 27^1
Jofeph, 295
Journal, Surgeon's, 95
Journies to the Cape, 142,
143
Juftice, courts of, 253
K.
Kafunkel-berg, 266
Kapock-bird, 136
Keerom rivier^ 176
Kidnappers, 73, 107
Kies, captain, 131
Kraijebofch, i^g
Krakous rivier, 171
 hoogt, 171
Kromme rivier, '200, 20 i
Krugers farm, 200
Kruyd-lefers, 314 Keurebbom^s

INDE X.

Keureboom's rivier, 167,
197. 211
King of Candia^ 29J
Klaw Ziekte, 209
Klein fontein, 1 76
Kleinhoff, 6^
Klipp-drift, 199
Knoflook, wilde, 1 56, 244
Kok, Jacob, 202
Kokoquas Hottentots, 305
Koopmans Hottentots, 307
Korrhaan, 144, 148
Koree rivier, 163^ 165
Kraal, 164
Kraal-bofch, 310
Krakeel ri\ier, 199
Kropgans, 295
Kukumakranka, 1 1 6
L.
Lacerta, 296
Lambs, 123, 163
Lame diftemper, 1 5 1
Lam-ziekte, 151
Lanius collaris, 293
Land, quality of, 122
 birds, 98
Landroft, 167
Lange kloof, 198, 206,

Leading ftring, 14-
Leariiing, incitements to*
4'
Leathern facks, 194, 157
Lcfturcs, 38 & feq.
Leyden, i 7
Leprofy, 65
Lent, 50
Leuv/cbofch rivier, iol_
Leeuwe rivier^ 167
Lichten, no .^
Light upon the water, ^q,
Sg
Lime tree, 104
LinnjEus, 105, 218
Lionsi 201
Lions mountain, 222, 235^
265
Lizard, 296
Lobfter, Cape, 240
Looris rivier, 203
Loxia;, 150, 219* 312
Lumbrici, 135
Lutheran ¦worfliip, 237
. Lutherans at the Cape, 2 jj
Luxemhourg, 49
Lycoperdon carcinomalt^
211
Lycium Afrum, 171. -¦'¦-fl

0 ' -^
210

M. ;  'a^ii<^i

Lanterns, 48,

iOi .:.;[l;..

Laurus camphora, 301

Mason, Mr. iSj- "-'."^^

Laurus nobilis, 114, 263

Mag- wine, 281 Maalftromsj;

INDEX.

Iv^aalftroms, 165
Malagafs ifland, 269
.  kraal, 197
Malmucks, 91
Man of war bird, 97 ,
Maquas Hottentots, 198
Marmota Africana, 263,
285
 J — — Capenfis, 263
Marriage, 140, 25'5
Matjes kloof, 159
-r—. — ^valley, 159
Mau rice'.s heights, 163
Meafles, 119
Meal hours, 138
Medicine cheft, 77
Medicinal plants, 128
Medufa's head, 240
Melkhout kraal, 188
Meloe Ciehorei, 200, 211
Mentz, 167
Merops apiafter, 3 j 2
Mefembryanthemum, 163,
211, 291
Mica argentea, 166
Mile ftones, 35
Milk, 197
Mimofa nilotica, 165, 211
Minifter, 159
Mirabilis dichotoma, 295
Mifgunft, 199
Moles, 263
MoNTiN, pr. 2igi

Montinia, 128
Morus nigra, 31 1
Morasa undulata, 286, 294
Mofterts hoek and farm,
143. 153
Mountains, 60, 6r, 11 g,
122, 145, 152, 154, 159.,
160, 163, 168, 171, 175,
190, 198,202,213,217,
219, 225, 235, 236, 254,
''¦SS' ^Sl> 258. 264, 267,
269
Mountain rat, 166
 river, i^z
• fwallows, 3 1 2
¦ fquill, 290
Muffs, 47
Mugge kruyd, 148
Mulberry tree, 3 1 1
M'uller, 184
Murmuring noife from the
fea, 29
Mufa Paradifiaca, 283
Mufcles, 29
Mufic, 204
Mufter, 68
Mufter roll, 314
Muyfenberg, 249, 267
Muyfen kraal, 213
Myrmecophaga, 137
Myrica, 166, 249, 267,
Myrtle tree, 1 04
M/tilus edulis, 29

N.

INDEX.

N.
Namaquas Hottentots, 307
Neiiena, 183
Nerita hiftrio, 177
New vear, Javanefe, 132
Nickert's farm, 200
Nightingale, 1 50
Nimweegen, 211
North hoek, 267
North weft wind, 226, 227,
228
Norway, 6, 268
Norweegen, 268 O.
Oaks, 104, 154, 279
Oats, 149
Odiquas Hottentots, 307
OfEcers, naval, 113, 115,
26p
Oldenburgh, 316
Olea Europxa, 232
 Capenfis, 172
Oleum Ricini, 145
Olive tree, 172, 232
Olivier, 154
Olyfant's warm bath, 214
Onverwagt, 200
Ppblaazers, 150
Oranje fontein, 145
Orchis, 220
Ornithogalum, 153

Ofmites, 291
Cftriches, 145
 eggs, 178,300
Oudshorn, vide Rheede
Otis, 144
Oxalis cernua, 293
Oxen, 1 4-1, i.;.2
Oxymel fcilliticum, 290
Oyfters, 29 P.
Palais des Marchands, 49
Palmit rivier, 171
Palfy, 291
Pancakes of white lead, 79
Parade 32
Paradife, 134
Paris, 35
Paffovereggs, 53
Patellae, 241
Peaches, 104
Pears, 103
Pepper, 170
Pelicans, 295
Phxdicopterus, 144, 267
Pharnaceum mollugo, 148
Phtpfca, 98, 147
Picketberg, 152
Pilot, 63 '"'
Pi NARD, Daniel, 34, 172
Pine apples, 282
Pine tree, 134
Pinn-wortel, 214 Pinus

IND
Finus fylveftris, 134
Piper capenfe, 170, 323
Pipes made of flieep's bones,
2oy
Pifang, 283
Pifang rivier, 1 85
Pits for animals, 1 8 1
Placemen, 282
Plant's farm, 188
Jlants, 252
Platte kloof, 275
Plettenberg, Bafori, lOO
Ploi, Michael de, ijg
Plough, 253
Pneumora, 150
Poifoned arrows, 203
Van der Poll, 313
Polygala, 244
Polygonum batbatum, 290
Populus albaj 104
Porcupines, 128, 204, 283
foft-boat, 59
Foft-coach, 34
Pots of the Hottentots, 207
Potteflaan, 193
Poultry -houfe, 172
Prayers, 1 10
Prefervatives on board of
ftiip, 78
Van Prehm, 311
Prieft, 159
Proceffus mamillatis, 207
.Proceffion in the Hotel Dieu,
36

E .X.
Profeffofs, introdudloiy, 66
Protea, 116, 143, 289, 291,
292
Pforalea pinnata, 214
Purge, 128
Pufpas rivier, 1 67
 valley, 1 67
Pyrns cydonia, 160

Qnaimari's drift and rivieir,» ,
180
'Quarantain, 8, 16, 31
Quartz, 224
Quercus robur, 104, 279
Quinces, 160

R.
Rabies canina & vulpina^
172
Raja miraletus, torpedd^
Rain, 179, 180, 200
Rat, African, 285
Ration 61: allowance, 95
Regulations oa board of
fhip, 71
Reftio, 116, 248, 295 .,
Rheedevan OuDSHowRsr,

234.313

Rlicumatiffflk

INDEX.

Rheumatifm, 175
Rhinoceros's horns, 246
 bladders, 204
Rhus, 171
Ribeek cafteel, 152
Ricinus, 145
Riet fontein, t66
Riet kraal, 169
Rings, 203
Ringhals, 208
Jlivers, 122, 149, 152, ijg,
160, r66, 169, 171, 172,
176, j8o, 183,. 188, i8g,
197. 199, 203, 211, 212,
313, 217, 278
Roads, 2, 22, 122, 176
Robbe berg, 191
Robben Eyland, 237
Rock, 172, 269
Rock-cryftal, 169
 fifli, ;29.5
Romance rock, 269
Rondebofch, 134,
RoNDEtJRANTZ, 6S
Rood.beckie, 312
Rood zand, 152, 159 ¦
"Ropes, 176
Roferaary, wild, t^6
Rouen, 32
Roux, -the Enam^Iler, 5'^
J.E Roux, 166
^I'AN RoYEN, 18, IOJ
Rumex fpinofus, 148
Runaway flaves, 2 73
"Rye, 23;^

S,
Sack milk, 197
Sailors, 1 1 o
Sal acetofelte, 293
Salayers, 39
Sald,-ihna bay, 145
Salicornia fruticofa, 29a
Salfola aphylla, 199
Salt meat, 257
Salt pans, 269
Sand heaths, 136
Sand river, 165
Sand vUel, 1 76
Sand ridge, 241
Scars in black people, 299
SCHELLING,, M. 65
Schiftus, 163
Sciatica, 292
Scolopax Capenfis, 144
Du Sec, 43
Sea-horfe, 207
Sea-cow, 207
Sea coral, 292
Seals, 98, 147, 297
Secretaries vogel, 14S
Secretary bird, 148, 214
Seed at the Cape, 136
Seed-veffels of the Euphor
bia, 145
,  ¦ — " Rumesc,

148

.argepteaj 11$

Protea

SSSLE,

INDEX;

Seele, FredeHc, i8o
Sepia, 146
Serapias, 220
Seriphium, 268
Serpents, 127, 156,214
 bite of, 127, i55i

208

poifon ofi I $6;

203

.  ftone, 155
Sheep, 123, iz8, 163, 171,
211
Sheep's dungi 156
.  ftomach, 202
 tails, 300
Shells, 241
 mixt ¦with earth,
116
Shin bones of fheep, 124
Ships,- i, ji 9, 6'/, 228,
238,283
Ship's diet, 6
-i  — officers, 113, II 5i
260, 261,
Shipwreck, 63, 270, 277
Shoes, 195
 ¦— (field-) f95
Shoe-blacks, 47
Shops, 33
Shrimps, 63
Sick, vifits to the, 93
Sick, on board of fhip, 72,
lot
' attenddiits npdh, gi

Sickles, 211- . ,
Sideroxylon toxiferum, i^$.
Simons bay, 269
Slange rivier, 212
Slange fteen, 155
Slange kop, 1 60
Slange bofch, 268
Slate, 163
Slaves, 99, 102, 114, 115
140, 233, 234, 302
Slave-houfe, 112 ;
Small po*c, ng, 199 ,
Smidt's farm, 213
Snipes, 144
Snow, 154, 259
Soap, 199
Soil at the Cape, 1 291
Solanuni nigrum, 157
Soldier, loi, 106, m, 138^
279, 286
Soldier's pay, 109
Solen filiqua, 20 1
Sonnerat, 219 — 221
Sonchus oleraceus, 146, 15^
Sophora Capenfis, 167
Sound, 255
South-eaft wind, 134, 135^
225, 226, 2^7
Sow-thiftle, 146
Spir, calcareoiis, 166
Sparrman, Profeffor, 99^,
316
Spiritus bellidis, 291
Spitting box, 26 Spon^

INDEX.

Spons ziekte, 151
St.-iart pepper, 170
Stadthoufe at Amfterdam,
H
Steenboks, 145
Steenbergs hoek, 267
Stellenbofch, 253
St. Jago. 88
Stinkhout, 169
Stomach wine, 281
Stone, Stoves, 33, 112
Strand dubbeltje, zs i
Strangury, 151, 152
Strata of mountains, 223,
224, 235
Straw for thatching, 248
Strawberries, 310
Streets, 3, 11,46
Streid UNG, Matthew,
199
Strelitfia, igi
Suet of mutton, 199
Sueur, Dr. le, 121
Su-koa, 193
Sulphur, clay impregnated
with, 145
Surgeons, 302
Suflaquas Hottentots, 306
Summers at the Cape, 232
Swallows, 157
Swieger, 154
Syrentie, 243
Syring, wilde, 291
I

Table mountain, 219 — 224,
264, 265
T.-iil pepper, 170
Talpa Afiatica, 263
Tamarinds, 233
Tantalus, 200
Tea, 7 J 27, 128
Teftudo, 182, 243
Tsxel, 7, 9, 28, 70
Temmink, 3I3
The fontein, 145
Theft, 77
Threfhing of wheat, 1 1 6
Thrufh, 294
Thrufli, green, 294
"Thrufh in children, 291
Thirft, 211
Tide, 8, 61, 62
Tiger, 147, 212
Tiger bergi Tiger moun
tain, 255
Tiger hoek, 213
Tilia Europaa, 104
Tinder, 159
Tintirintjes, 1^3
Tobacco, 34, 131, 188, 1 96^
206
Tobacco pipe, 266
Toll gates, 101
Tonguelefs womart, 53
Tortoifes blood, 1 27, 203
Tortoife ftiell, 182, 194 "Traini

INDEX.

Train oil, 147, 29
Travellers, fellow, 189, 190,
316
¦Treckfchuyt, 17
•^rees, planting of trees, 34,
104, 116, 126, J 30, 134,
136, 145, 149, 156, 160,
163, 167, 169, 171, 172,
179, 181, 190, 199, 201,
202, 207, 211, 213, 2t5,
232, 233, 243, 248,249,
252, 254, 263, 267, 268,
279, 283, 288
Trianon, 59
¦Trichins laticollis, 149
Trill- vifch, 295
Trumpet-grafs, 91, 98, 218
Turdiis Ceilonicus, 294
Turf, 21
Tulbagh, 105, 199
Tulbaghi?, alliacea, 156, 244
Tulp-boom, 292
Tung ziekte, 209
'Turkey, wild, 200
Turmeric, 301
Turtle doves, 3 1 2

•V.
Vals rivier, 1 7 1
Vasco deGama, 100
Vauxhall, 49
Vermin among poultry, 172

Vett rivier, 171
Vifcum Capenfe, 16$
Vines, planting oG I2^~
 wild, 134
Vinegar, 202
Vineyards, 130, 25 i
Vitis vitiginea, 134
VlVIER, 176
Umbilicus veneris, 241
Univerfity, ig, 39, 40, 5?,
66
Vogts rivier, 166
Vomiting, 202
Vrouwe-ha!ar, 292
Uyle kraal, 145
Vygen, Hottentots, j^j

-W.
Waageboom's rivier, 200
Waferfland, 152
Waggon, 142
WaJcteen betje, 244
Warm bath, 159, 160, 214,
2,15
Water, 28, 46, go, 125, 210,
279
 fpout, 89
 conduits, 210
Water uynties, 15$
Watervall, 2 1 3
Wax ftirub, 166
Weeds in corn-fields, 311
We|

INDEX.

Wel te vrede, 171
Welgevimden, 213
De Wett, i 53
Whales, 97, 98
Wheat, 137, 172, 216, 231,
300
 fields, 252
Whips, 142,, lyj
Whirlpools, 165
White lead in pancakes',- 73
Wildfchuts brand, 268
WiU, orteftamenti 95
Windsi 117, 225, zzS, 227
Wine contr«ft; 298
Wine, Gape, 2to
Wine, the making of, 244
Winter, 112, 115"
Winterhoek, 153
Witfenberg, 154
Witte Moll, 163
Wittels rivier, 176
Wolfekraal, 211
Woltemad, 273
Wolves, 124
Woods, 169, 177, 183, 196
Wool, 123, 164
Worms, 135

Yaws, 65
Yzer klippen, 135, 234
Yzer-varken, 128, 283

Zamia Caffra, 201
Zoyker.boom, 292
Zeelverkoopers, 73, 107
Z'eeko -rivier, 2or
Zeeko valley*, 248
ZSebe-Trooft, 234
Zoetemelk^'s rivier, lyr
Zoetemelk's valley, 214
ZoNDAG^ Matthias, ' ig?,
21 r
Zonder end rivier, 2 1 3
Zout fontein, 176
Zout rivier, 278
Zudwyk, 20
Zuyderzee, 8
Zwart hout, 268
Zwarte berg, 21^, 216
Zwarte valley, 171
Zwellendam, 167
Zygophyllum morgfana, 164

z

DIRECTIONS TO the BINDER.

Place the Fronttfpiece to faee the Title of Vol. I. and
the Marmota Africana (or African Rat) and the large
Plate of the Arms and Implements ofthe Hottentots,'
immediately after the Index to the fame Volume. '
The four other Plates to follow their Explanation in
'thefirflSheetofVol.il.

^

^

NV

^

5;^

s >\1

3 9002 00875 2983

¦>,.:*