THE VOYAGES OF THE 'MORNING' THE ' MORNING ' IN McMURDO SOUND THE VOYAGES OF THE 'MORNING' BY CAPTAIN GERALD S, DOORLY, R,N,R, WITH ILLUSTRATIONS AND A MAP NEW YORK E. P, DUTTON & COMPANY 68i FIFTH AVENUE 1916 AT THB BALLANTYNE PKES9 PEINTED BY SPOITISWOODE, BALLANTYNE AND CO. LID. COLCIIEiiTER, LONDON AND ETON, ENGLAND TO MY CHUM INTRODUCTION When Sir Clements Markham's life was cut short by the unhappy accident of Sunday, January 30, 1916, he was on the point of writing an introduction to the present book. The proofs had reached this office on the Saturday afternoon, and were to have been sent him on the Monday, No one else could so appropriately have written a word of introduction. Sir Clements had a friendly hand for every Polar explorer, and his friendship, once given, was true and lasting. It was through him that ' The Voyages of the Morning ' sees the light to-day, just as it was through him that the good ship herself was sent to relieve the Discovery. To him, as the friend and guide of the expedition and all concerned in it, the MS, was sent last summer, and on July 19, 191 5, he wrote to Mr. Reginald Smith : — ' I have just received a narrative of the two voyages of the Morning ; from New Zealand. vii INTRODUCTION The author was one of the junior officers — Gerald Doorly. He now commands a steamer out there, but he was a boy when he was in the Morning. The narrative is pleasantly written — first impressions of a keen observer. He was on board the Discovery and tells how Scott was constantly looking after the sick — bringing them tit-bits, &c. The whole story is well told. It occurred to me that it might form a sort of supplement to Turley's admirable book ' [i.e. ' The Voyages of Captain Scott,' by Charles Turley]. In this sense, at least, he felt that the book would not be belated, ' just as a boy's book and an uncommonly good one — capital book for a prize,' though, owing to the pressure of a busy life, it appears long after the events it records. The boy is the eternal lover of adventure, and in this guise, moreover, lives on in many a grown-up. Assuredly there wUl be many to welcome such a record as this, for the story of the Morning has never been told, and it is worthy of being told to complete the tale of Antarctic adventure and the cycle of Scott's own travels, L, HUXLEY. March 191 6. viii PREFACE Many stirring accounts have been written during the last few years of voyages to the South Polar Regions — stories filled with fine geographical and scientific records, won by gallant deeds, unselfish devotion and, alas, also at the expense of valuable lives. The voyages of the Morning as relief expedition to the Discovery, 1 902-1 904, have hitherto remained unpublished and the object of this book is therefore to fill the gap. The Morning was commanded by Captain William Colbeck, R.N.R. — an able and skilful seaman — to whom the greatest credit is due for the complete success of the Discovery's relief expedition. He was held in the highest esteem by the authorities, and by the late Captain Scott, and those who sailed with him have none but the happiest memories of his splendid leadership. ix PREFACE Commander Evans, C.B., R.N., who gained distinction in Captain Scott's last glorious but fatal expedition, was an officer on the Morning, and it was mainly through his affectionate endeavours that I became a member of the Relief Expedition. We started our sea career together on the train ing ship Worcester on the Thames, and this narrative is partly in the nature of a record of our many years friendship. On the completion of the Mornings voyages, Evans was urged by Sir A. Conan Doyle to write and publish an account of the Relief Expedition, and he asked me to join him in this work. Circumstances arose, how ever, which prevented the arrangements being then carried out. I have always felt that the story of the Relief Expedition should be on record, and ten years having now elapsed since its conclusion, I have endeavoured to tell it before the vividness of the experience fades from the memory. I last saw Evans in Lyttelton two years ago invalided from the Antarctic. He had spent the winter in the South, and in the sledg ing season following he was Captain Scott's PREFACE right-hand man in carrying out the work of laying depots and supporting the main party. He left Captain Scott in latitude 87*" 35' S., and was the last man to see the ill-fated polar party alive. Every generation will send out its ex peditions, journeying to the grim and lonely Antarctic, The adventurous men of future days will sail the icy seas we sailed upon, and gaze with fascinated interest at the great white lands, awe-inspiring and silent. Far away on the western shores of McMurdo Sound, they may see rising from the glacier- filled valleys. Mount Evans and Mount Doorly — a monument to a close friendship and affectionate association of those after whom they are named, I tender my thanks to Mr. J. D. Morrison, chief engineer of the Morning, for supplying the photographs iUustrating the story, to Captain D. Wilson-Barker, R.N.R., for the photograph of the Worcester and his interest in the welfare of his old cadet, and to the Royal Geographical Society for the accom panying map. I especially extend my appreciation to xi PREFACE Mr. T. W. Whitson and Mr. Malcolm Ross, F.R.G.S., for friendly and valuable advice in regard to the publication of this book. Last, but not least, I am deeply indebted to the late Sir Clements R. Markham, K.CB,, F.R.S., for his ever ready assistance and generosity. His memory is an inspiration to those who knew him. Through his kindly interest in, and encouragement to us all, he was truly named by the gallant Captain Scott : ' The Father of the Expedition and its most constant friend,' G, S. D. DUNEDIN, February 191 6. XU CONTENTS CHAPTER I H.M.S. Worcester — My early associations 'with Evans — Ambition to go to sea together — Boyish incidents — Obtaining the Worcester's t'wo most coveted prizes .... CHAPTER II Temporary separation — ^Merchant Service and Royal Na'vy — A happy meeting — Astonishing telegram to join Antarctic Relief Expedition — ^First visit to the Mommg — Difficulties in being appointed — Intervie'ws with Captain Colbeck and Sir Clements Markham — Sus pense — ^Meeting Mulock — Evans pleads our cause — Both appointed to Expedition . 13 CHAPTER III DeUght in new work — Preparing for the voyage — Endeavours to obtain a piano — ^Doubtful hopes — Piano ultimately supplied by Sir Clements — ^Departure from East India Docks — Cheering ships — Sailing down Channel — Farewell to England ..... 29 xiii CONTENTS CHAPTER IV FACE Bay of Biscay — Unique experience of a piano — Morrison, a lyric writer — Coahng at Madeira — Regrettable result of ' chain lightning '—The Equator — Court of Neptune . . • 35 CHAPTER V First taste of bad weather — Run across the Southern Ocean— Concerts and nigger minstrel entertainment — Sighting New Zealand — A beautiful dawn — Arrival at Lyttelton — HospitaUty of New Zealanders — Preparing for the Antarctic — Sailing day— Humorous incident at fareweU service — An impressive send off ...••¦• 43 CHAPTER VI Southward ho ! — The stormy Southern Ocean — First experience of ice — The midnight sun — Beauties of Antarctica — Christmas Day — New island discovered — Ship strikes an out lying rock — Captain's skilful seamanship — ' ¦fhe ice pack — Seals — Exercise and sport — Dangerous gale on edge of pack ... 56 CHAPTER VII First glimpse of polar continent — Cape Adare — Plans of Relief Expedition — ^The humorous penguins — ' Southern Cross ' Expedition hut — First Discovery record found — Along the coast of South Victoria Land — Immense tabular bergs — Possession Islands — Coulman Island — Impenetrable ice pack — FutUe efforts to reach Wood Bay — Compass error — Strange ski impressions — Desperate attempt to reach Franklin Island — Providential escape from insetting pack ...... 68 xiv CONTENTS CHAPTER VIII Difficulties attending our undertaking — Cape Crozier and Mount Terror — Depots to be estab lished if no record found — Party at Cape Crozier — Discovery located — Delayed a week in heavy pack — JMount Erebus — The deadly stillness — Beaufort Island — A sailor's venture — Subsequent humorous sequel — Exciting steam up McMurdo Sound — Sighting Dis covery's masts ...... 80 CHAPTER IX Ten miles of field ice — Experiments with ice-saws — First visitors — Return of sledge parties — A curious sight — Retum of Captain Scott's southern party — First -visit to the Discovery — The winter harbour — ^Meeting Scott, Wilson, and Shackleton — Banquet ! — Captain Scott's speech — ^Astonishing hunger after sledging — An incident both humorous and pathetic . 96 CHAPTER X Weather-bound — Sluggish ice field — Differences in seasons — Sledging over supplies — A coal depot — Sound freezing over — -Farewell dinner on Morni^ng — ^Modest requests — Discovery held for second winter — ^Departure of the Morni'ng — A sad parting — ' The Ice King ' — Heavy new ice — Mornitig nipped — An anxious night — Our narrow escape — Sailing north-^Days close in — Unpleasant weather — Arrival at Lyttelton . . . . . . .111 CHAPTER XI Winter in Ljrttelton — Expedition taken over by Admiralty — Terra Nova purchased — Inci dents, humorous and otherwise — H.M.S. XV CONTENTS FACa Phcebe assists in Morni'ng's overhaul — Second departure from New Zealand — Tasmania — Terra Nova at Hobart — A unique tow — Tran shipping stores — Sixty-third anniversary of Erebus and Terror at Hobart — ^HospitaUty — An original dancer — Scuffle with a sailor — H.M.S. Royal Arthur supplies gun-cotton — Departure from Hobart . . . .125 CHAPTER XII Southward — Terra Nova and Morning in company — A narrow shave — ^The ice pack again — Second Antarctic Christmas — Scott Island sighted — ' Dead reckoning ' — Admiralty Range — ^Deceptive distances — Fascination of the Antarctic — ^A quaint group — Sea-leopard hunt — View of South Victoria Land — FrankUn Island — Difference in pack distribution — McMurdo Sound — Sighting Discovery — Exten sive sheet of field ice — Hopeless prospects . 141 CHAPTER XIII Captain Scott and Dr. Wilson — Astonishment at two ships — ^Doubtful chances of freeing Dis covery — Evans and I at Scott's camp — An appetising ' hoosh ' — Charm of an apple — Dangerous moving pack — Preparing to abandon Discovery — Sledging valuables to reUef ships — Anxious days — Blasting opera tions — Snow blindness — Sailing orders issued — ^Depressing thoughts — Gale in Ross Sea — Extensive break-up of field — Visit to Discovery — Influence of sweU at Discovery — Strenuous blasting — Sudden break-up of ice — Exciting rescues — Stirring hours — A struggle for priority — Dramatic arrival in winter harbour . 153 xvi CONTENTS CHAPTER XIV PAGB Preparations for freeing Discovery — Morning adrift — Terrific explosions — Discovery released — ThrilUng scene — A severe blizzard — Discovery driven ashore — Hea'vy weather — Trying experiences — Ships alongside glacier snout — Transhipping coal and stores — ' Follow me ' — Start of homeward voyage . . ^73 CHAPTER XV A beautiful Antarctic scene — Ships in company — Impressive coast-line — Morning parts com pany — Terra Nova escorts Discovery — ¦ Boisterous Southern Ocean — Engines break down — An anxious month — Reverses making Auckland Island — Arrival Port Ross — A peaceful contrast — Discovery and Terra Nova at rendezvous — Pleasant days — BaUasting ship — ^News of outer world — Departure from Auckland Island — A fine slant — Retum of National Antarctic Expedition . . .188 CHAPTER XVI A great welcome — Evans's wedding — Departure for England — Around Cape Horn — The Falk land Islands — Last run of voyage — Depressing head winds — Change off Cape Finisterre — Running before a gale — The dear Homeland — Morning, steamer or sailer ? — Plymouth Sound — The end of the cruise . . .201 CHAPTER XVII Morning laid up at Devonport — Our diminutive floating home — Dividing the ' spoils ' — Crew paid off — SaUors' affection for their ship — The last of the Morning — Homeward-bound crew — Our unconscious humorist — The Great City — ^Home, sweet home . . . . .210 xvii CONTENTS CHAPTER XVIII PAGE Expedition functions — Captain Scott's lecture at Royal Albert HaU — Graceful tribute to Cap tain Colbeck — Reception of Morning's crew at HuU — Royal Corinthian Yacht Club's dinner — Captain Colbeck 's wedding — The sad fareweU ....... 217 XVIU ILLUSTRATIONS The ' Morning ' in McMurdo Sound H.M.S. ' Worcester ' Morrison's Scheme — 'at once Sur prising and Original ' . The Author .... Evans and England Observation Hill Part of Scott Island and Haggitt's Pillar .... An Antarctic Pillar-Box DELA"yED for a Week . Captain Colbeck Reading ' Dis covery ' Records found at Cape Crozier .... ' Every Movement -was keenly Watched ' . . . . Approach of our First Visitors . Captain Scott Leaving the ' Morn ing '..... ' Discovery ' in Winter Quarters Sledging Gear and Supplies to ' Discovery ' . Coal Depot on Glacier Tongue . xix Frontispiece Facing page 8 364244 5959 747484 98 98 104104112112 ILLUSTRATIONS Shackleton on Arrival at Lyttel ton. ..... Facing page 126 ' England's Do'wnfall ' . . ,, 134 Captain Scott and Captain Colbeck ,, 154 Captain Scott's Tent, Cape Royds ,, 158 Arrival of Mail from ' Discovery ' ,, 158 An Occasional Incident — Adrift on the Sea Ice ... ,, 168 MUSIC Southward .... Between pages 38. 39 The Ice King ... ,, 116, 117 MAP Showing Track of the S.Y. ' Morning ' . . . .At end of text XX THE VOYAGES OF THE * MORNING' CHAPTER I H.M.S. Worcester — My early associations 'with Evans — Ambition to go to sea together — Boyish incidents — Obtaining the Worcester's two most coveted prizes. When passing up or down the Thames be tween Erith and Gravesend, one cannot help noticing a number of old wooden fighting ships moored on each side of the river, A century ago these were the pride of the British Navy, and upheld the glory of the nation in many conflicts and on many seas. Now they are spending a peaceful old age as training-vessels for the British youth of every class. Off Greenhithe lies the Arethusa, used as a training-ship for poor boys of good conduct. THE VOYAGES OF THE 'MORNING' These are generally drafted into the Royal Navy and become seamen. About a mile distant, and moored off the historic Ingress Abbey, lies that excellent training-ship ' for young gentlemen de sirous of becoming officers in the Mer cantile Marine,' known as the Incorporated Thames Nautical Training College, H,M,S, Worcester. The Worcester and her complement, the Conway, on the Mersey, during their many years of existence as training-vessels, have turned out some of the finest men; and in almost every corner of the globe 'old Wor- cesters' and 'old Conway s' are to be found as captains of great liners, officers of ships of all descriptions, while not a few hold prominent shore appointments in various parts of the world, A certain percentage have also passed into the Royal Navy through the Admiralty granting several nominations from these ships annually. Boys from all parts of the world have been trained on the Worcester, hailing not only from the British Possessions, but from many foreign countries as well, so that it is not to be won- ON THE 'WORCESTER' dered at that old boys are to be found in the most unexpected places. A number of years ago now, two boys — both under fifteen years of age — joined the Worcester as cadets within a few months of each other. One, the son of a barrister practising in Lon don, had joined the ship for the purpose of passing into the Royal Navy. The other was the son of a clergyman, and hailed from Trini dad, in the British West Indies, The former was Evans, affectionately known as ' Teddie,' and the latter was the writer of these notes. Coming as we did from opposite corners of the world, so to speak, we met as strangers knowing nothing of each other; but it hap pened that we were placed in the same ' top ' (or section), and slept in hammocks slung next to one another. Boys thrown together in such a way soon get to know each other favourably or otherwise. In the course of a very few weeks we became inseparable chums, and, as boys do, swore eternal friend ship. My memory takes me back to the many happy times we spent in each other's company. During holidays we frequently ex changed visits, and our boyish escapades were 3 THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' quite in keeping with a certain spirit of ad venture which is so dear to most boys, and particularly so to the budding sailor, who holds ever before him the ideal of endeavouring to live up to the great and glorious traditions of the sea, Evans was a sturdily-built boy, heavier, but a trifle shorter than myself, and was a splendid muscular specimen, whilst I belonged to that type known as wiry. We used to put in many a half-hour at horse-play, which, speaking for myself, was very hard work. Our wrestling bouts were terrific struggles, and although I was frequently the loser, I think that Evans will admit that for a light-weight I put up a very good fight, and made him exercise his muscles to their utmost. We ran about equally well, and have gone for miles together, each, no doubt, not caring to give in to the other. We were also well up in gymnastic and athletic feats. I remember on a holiday once riding a tandem bicycle with him through some of the busiest thoroughfares in London, ob livious of the fact that he had never been on a bicycle before. He stated that he 4 BOYHOOD'S ADVENTURES would supply all the ' horse-power ' necessary if I did the more scientific work of steering and ringing the bell. We rode for miles, and, marvellous to relate, escaped accident. In boyish fashion we often competed in odd feats of endurance. One wet evening, after a performance at the Gaiety Theatre, there was the usual rush and scramble for 'busses. Evans's parents were with us, and they succeeded, after several reverses, in getting standing room only. As the stream of packed 'busses rolling by offered little prospect for us, we decided to run home, I am not sure how far it is from the Strand to Regent's Park, but in the bleak, muddy night it seemed quite a long way. We stuck to the game, overtook the 'bus, and had a cheerful fire going and supper ready to greet the others, Evans stayed with me one night. We arrived late, and found that the family had gone to bed and had locked us out. We did what any active boys would do, I suppose, in like circumstances. By standing on his shoulders I wriggled through a dense creeper, shinned up a drain-pipe, and reached the 5 THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' bedroom window. My brother awakened with a start, but, being used to our playful ways, he turned over with a grunt and was soon snoring again. I let Evans in respectably by the front door, but, in spite of stealth, the stairs creaked horribly. We were at Margate one Easter, and went out for a pull on a bitterly cold day. To my surprise, when we were some distance from the shore, Evans suggested a swim, I shuddered at the thought, but I couldn't be outdone by my chum. We stripped and dived in. It was awful ; Evans was enthusiastic over its ' loveliness ' ; I agreed with a gasp, but was never more thankful than when we were dressed and, with chattering teeth, were pulling back to the pier. We made a boat excursion one day from Ramsgate to the Sandwich River, a few miles away, Evans' mother and brothers accompanied us, Evans and I considered ourselves expert seamen, but we had a lot to learn. We ran the boat into a creek off the main stream, and, as it was raining, we improvised a tent with oars and sail. 6 STRANDED ON THE EBB There was nothing to do but to dig into the provisions. We became so engrossed in this pleasure that the tide gradually ebbed away and left us stranded in a slough of mud : ' Women and children first,' of course ; in a few moments feet were bared, and, sinking to the knees in mud, we gallantly landed the lady of the party. After some bargain ing at an adjacent inn, we obtained a trap, in which she was ignominiously despatched in the approaching night to Ramsgate. It was impossible to move the boat from the muddy bed, so we decided to ' stand by ' and keep ' watch and watch ' through the gloomy night — for what reason I cannot remember now. We had a hazy idea, I think, that when a vessel was stranded it was necessary for the crew to suffer certain hardships and discomforts. Fortunately for us some coast-guardsmen happened to pass by early in the evening. When we explained our predicament they laughed good-humouredly and told us to go home. They offered to look after the boat when the tide made enough to refloat her. As our enthusiasm had been on the wane, we gladly accepted their assist- 7 THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' ance, and being cold and wet, we did a five- mile non-stop run home. We found the boat afloat next morning, and with pangs of anxiety concerning the owner's feelings, we sneaked back with humilia tion to Ramsgate, An unexpected welcome awaited us. Another Worcester boy — possessed of an extraordinarily inventive mind — was on the pier surrounded by a crowd of trippers. Quite unusual interest seemed to be centred in our arrival at the steps. We soon heard that this imaginative wag had spread a yarn that a battleship was wrecked in the Downs, and that we were alleged to be two midship men who had effected a daring escape ! Our Worcester uniforms lent the necessary colour to this absurd story. Among the many quaint customs on the Worcester, is a recreation known as * slewing,' which comprises walking round and round the upper or main decks, arm in arm with any particular friend during ' stand easy ' times. It was amusing to see, perhaps, 150 boys walking round and round the decks in this fashion in twos chiefly, but occasion ally in threes. There was always a proper 8 ' SLEWING ' decorum to be adhered to before ' slewing,' very similar to requesting the pleasure of a dance in a ballroom. It was not conducted quite as politely, perhaps, though the ' Come and slew ' produced a more or less similar effect. Needless to say, Evans and I put in many an hour's ' slewing ' during our terms on the ship, and, as may be imagined, all our hopes and ideals were discussed, and it can safely be stated that no two boys ever knew or understood each other better than we did. At one period, our ambition was to go to sea together, and we speculated as to its likelihood. One arrangement was that if he failed to pass into the Navy, we should apprentice ourselves to some sailing-ship firm ; but much as I should have appreciated this, I always felt that his heart was set upon the Navy, and consequently encouraged him in that direction. I recall to mind most vividly one evening towards the end of our stay on the Wor cester, just before prayers and ' pipe down ' (turn into hammocks). We were ' slewing ' together as usual. Evans, who was working 9 THE VOYAGES OF THE * MORNING ' hard, and doing many extra hours for the Naval Examination, seemed rather de spondent. He was continually harping on the subject of the examination and its con sequent results — dreading failure. There were seven or eight other Worcester boys to compete with him, and a similar number from the Conway, I believe, out of whom perhaps only the first two or first three would get through. I felt in my own mind that Evans was good enough for any of them. The hard work and long hours had doubtless caused him fatigue and anxiety. I cheered him up as much as I was able, and assured him that I had confidence in him and felt certain that he would pull through swimmingly. Now, at the after end of the main deck on the Worcester are two large panels under glass, one on either side. One contains the Ten Commandments printed in gold lettering on a black background, and the other has, also printed in gold, the list of the cadets who have obtained the Worcester's two most coveted prizes since the establishment of the ship as a training vessel. These are the two prizes granted by Her late Majesty IO LINKED NAMES Queen Victoria, and continued by the late King Edward, and by King George. The first is the Queen's Gold Medal, awarded annually to the boy who shows qualifications likely to become the finest sailor, decided by a ballot of the cadets ; and the second is the cadetship into the Royal Navy. The two prizes are regarded as ideals, and I don't suppose there has been a boy who has passed through the Worcester who has not known, almost by heart, the printed regula tions on this board, and the names of the successful prize-winners, printed in gold, as far back as 1869, At each turn of the deck we made on this evening, these printed records confronted us, and Evans, after gazing at the prize board for some moments, suddenly remarked : ' I wonder if my name will ever be printed there.' I replied that I considered it quite likely, whereupon he squeezed my arm and said, rather impulsively, * Dear old chap, I'll wager that if mine is put there, yours will be printed on the opposite side,' This com pliment came as a wonderful surprise to me, as I had never in my wildest hopes ever II THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' thought that I should have the remotest chance of being selected even to be voted for, or against, by my shipmates. Evans had no idea either ; how could he ? But he felt that it would be a fitting conclusion to our career on the dear old Worcester. A month or two passed, and the results of the Naval Examination being published, it was seen that Evans had passed very creditably first, above all competitors from both ships. A few more months passed, and I was voted ' Queen's Gold Medallist.' Evans was indeed prophetic : our names are printed in gold abreast each other on that coveted scroll of fame. It was an impressive end to our training-ship days, and in keeping with our close friendship. 12 CHAPTER II Temporary separation — Merchant Service and Royal Na'vy — A happy meeting — Astonishing telegram to join Antarctic Relief Expedition — First visit to the Mormng — Difiiculties in being appointed — Interviews with Captain Colbeck and Sir Clements Markham — Suspense — Meeting Mulock — Evans pleads our cause — Both appointed to Expedition. As the steam vessel has largely superseded the now almost obsolete sailing ship, few are the openings left for sailors to pick up a satisfactory freight. The chief line of business left to sailing ships appears to be carrying coal from West of England ports to the West Coast of South America, and, by way of securing return cargo, loading nitrate of soda on the Chilian coast, or proceeding in ballast to the Western States of America for wheat. During my apprenticeship ports on the West Coast of the two Americas were visited, and it was at Antofogasta in Chili, while I 13 THE VOYAGES OF THE 'MORNING' was engaged in the dirty but unavoidable occupation of shovelling coal, that a letter was thrown to me in the hold. It bore a Maltese stamp and postmark, and the writing was unmistakably that of Evans. We were fast friends, yet what a contrast was there in our callings ! We were both becoming seamen, but by very different methods. At this time Evans was a midshipman on a first-class cruiser in the Mediterranean Squadron. His letter was not written in a cheerful strain ; he complained of being unhappy and discontented, and that ' for two pins I'd chuck the Navy, and apprentice myself with you.' Now, I could not claim much worldly knowledge, and comparatively little of the sea, but it was quite clear to me that whatever Evans's life might be, it surely was not as unpleasant as mine. Reflect upon it as I would, I could not understand how he could willingly desire to exchange a position in the service of his country for the back-aching, rough-and-tumble existence that I was carrying on. As perhaps he did not realise the nature of my life as well as I could picture his, I H A SUFFERING MIDSHIPMAN wrote off immediately urging him to stay where he was, and not for a minute to entertain such a foolish idea. I learned later on that Evans was just passing through that juvenile stage in the Navy where one has to be sub servient to the officer told off to keep the middies up to the mark, and the officer in question was evidently tactless and generally unpopular with the midshipmen. Evans, being physically the officer's superior, strongly resented his alleged bullying, and would willingly have thrashed him were it not that such insubordination would most probably result in dismissal from the service. Whether my letter played any part in influencing the irate midshipman or not, I never really enquired ; suffice it to say that he did not resign from the Navy, and the next time I heard of him he had become the life and soul of his ship, and was con sidered one of the smartest and most popular midshipmen on the station. After the fashion of boys, we kept in touch with each other by corresponding about once a year ; but we frequently heard of each other. Whilst^ in San Francisco on one occasion, I 15 THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' heard with regret that poor Evans had been dangerously ill with fever, and that, after being laid up at Malta until convalescent, he was invalided home. Except that I knew of his subsequent recovery, I lost track of him for a brief period. Several years had now passed, and at the termination of one voyage I remained on shore in order to undergo some training in the Royal Naval Reserve on the drill ship H.M.S. President, lying in the West India Docks, London. I had received a nomination as midshipman in the R.N.R. on leaving the Worcester. Residing at that time near Blackheath, I travelled to and fro daily to drill. On return ing from drill one afternoon, just as my train was drawing up at London Bridge station, I noticed another train moving out. My sur prise and delight knew no bounds when I suddenly caught sight of my old pal waving frantically out of the carriage window of the departing train. There was no means of communication, but he pointed wildly to the superscription ' Greenwich ' on his train, indicative of his i6 REUNION whereabouts. I formulated a plan for the next day, and after drill returned home via Greenwich, and called at the R.N. College. Our reunion was emphasised by a warm embrace. There was so much to tell that it was difficult to know where or how to begin. We went to his room, which he proudly in formed me was a post captain's. He had been rather run down in health, and having assured the Captain of the College that the Sub-Lieutenant's quarters were damp and draughty, he was accordingly allotted this luxurious apartment. We arranged to meet ' under the clock ' at Charing Cross that evening, and from 7.30 p.m. until 10.30. P.M. we dined, or, more correctly, talked, with intervals for food and drink, at a restaurant in the vicinity of Leicester Square, of which Evans was an occasional patron. A lady and gentleman were sitting on the oppo site side of our table when we arrived, sipping their coffee and liqueurs, and it was evident that our breezy and animated conversation must have completely absorbed their attention, because they didn't leave until we did, and had consumed, for appearance's sake presum- 17 THE VOYAGES OF THE 'MORNING' ably, innumerable cups of coffee and glasses of liqueurs. We met occasionally after this. Evans was working for his lieutenant's exarnination, and a great deal of his time was occupied in study. Before I went off to sea again he had passed the first two sections of his examina tion, obtaining a ' one ' in each. I was now a junior officer in the P. & 0. S. N. Co., and had been appointed to a trans port vessel, temporarily fitted and employed as a hospital ship during the South African War. The voyages were from Southampton to the Cape, conveying detachments of troops to the Front, and returning with a pathetic human freight of sick and wounded soldiers. Arriving at Southampton one voyage, about the middle of June 1902, a great surprise awaited me. Amongst my letters was a telegram from my friend Evans, containing the astonishing query : ' Would you care join Antarctic Re lief Expedition ? Ship Morning sailing early July, Friends quite agreeable. Reply at once or place will be filled.' I went to my cabin to consider this most 18 FIRST SIGHT OF THE ' MORNING ' unexpected and almost startling proposal. Why a relief expedition ? To relieve whom ? It dawned upon me that it must necessarily be connected with the Discovery Expedition, which had sailed twelve months before for the Antarctic, But what did I know of such things ? Was I suitable for such an under taking ? Then it suddenly flashed across my mind that by joining this Expedition the greatest wish of our lives would be gratified. Evans and I would at last sail in the same ship, unusual and extraordinary though that ship and voyage might be. My mind was soon made up, and, obtain ing leave from the captain, I proceeded to London. My thoughts and feelings on the subject were naturally somewhat mixed, as I was working more or less in the dark ; the only satisfaction I seemed to feel was that, as Evans was there, all must be well. Proceeding directly to the East India Docks, I found after a little search and enquiry the object of my quest, and I have to confess to a deep sense of disappointment. The ship I had just left at Southampton was a P. & 0. liner of some pretensions ; 19 ^^ THE VOYAGES OF THE 'MORNING' the eye was accustomed to such dimensions ; but the object I now gazed upon seemed so ridiculously insignificant that for a moment I wondered if there hadn't been some mistake. It was only too true, however, that this small barque-rigged vessel of 290 tons, with a quaint little yellow funnel in the after-end, and a strange-looking tub at the mainmast- head, was the steam yacht Morning, in the course of preparation for her adventurous voyages. As there was no visible sign of life about the ship, it appeared to me that my hurried journey to the docks had been unnecessary, and I was deliberating as to my next move, when up popped my friend's head from the one absurd little hatch the Morning possessed, and seeing me he gave vent to an outburst of joy with his ' Hello, Jose ' (a fancy term of endearment). ' Welcome to the Dread nought.' I wondered at the zeal and enterprise of my old chum. About three months previously he was going through the torpedo and gunnery course at Whale Island, when one day, during ' stand easy,' he chanced 20 A THIRD OFFICER WANTED to read in a daily paper that the Arctic whaler Morning had been purchased from a Norwegian firm in Tonsberg, and after over hauling and equipping her in London, it had been decided that she would sail for the South Polar regions as a relief ship to the Discovery. The energetic Evans pro ceeded at once to London and personally interviewed Sir Clements Markham, then the President of the R.G.S., with a view to joining the Expedition. He was intro duced to the captain, who recommended him there and then as second executive officer. His good physical appearance, his frank and zealous manner, and his enterprising offer to man the ship with blue-jackets from Portsmouth if necessary, no doubt appealed very strongly to the organisers. As the time drew on, and it was neces sary to consider the appointment of a third executive officer, Evans, being by this time much thought of by the authorities, suggested emphatically that they could not do better than appoint me to the position ! This, as will have been seen, was done totally without my knowledge ; but knowing 21 THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' me as he did, and remembering our early desire to go to sea together, he was positive that I would not only accept the position, but would be a keen and useful officer to the Expedition. This was indeed the acme of friendship. There were already over fifty applicants for the position, but by the time I arrived on the scene, through Evans's enterprise and affection, these had been reduced to a possible two, of whom I was one. The other applicant was a young naval officer, Mulock, who had surveying experience amongst his recommendations, and was altogether on a better footing than I was for the appointment. Evans was perplexed as to how the decision would go, for although extremely keen for me to join, he was nevertheless generously disposed toward his brother officer, who was in all respects equally suit able, and by his credentials appeared to be even better qualified than I was. I met Captain Colbeck on board. Though quite a young man, he impressed me as being the ideal type of commander; and, as I subsequently learnt, he had already 22 SIR CLEMENTS MARKHAM experienced an Antarctic voyage, being one of the first party to spend a winter in the frozen south. He explained that Evans's telegram to me was rather premature, there being much difficulty in deciding on the officer to be appointed ; but in spite of this, he held out a hope for me, and even went so far as to describe the nature of my duties, in the event of my being appointed. This sounded cheerful and encouraging, but there was nevertheless the uncertainty, which gave rise to conflicting emotions. He promised to see Sir Clements on my behalf that evening. Returning to town in this unsettled frame of mind, I decided to anticipate the captain, and called personally on Sir Clements. As a boy on the Worcester I remembered Sir Clements coming on board occasionally during the winter terms and delivering very interesting lectures to the cadets on Arctic exploration. One of our old boys was at that time in the Arctic, with the Jackson-Harmsworth Expedition, and Sir Clements himself had been, as a young naval officer, on one of the search expeditions 23 THE VOYAGES OF THE 'MORNING' to the Arctic in quest of the fatal Franklin Expedition. Somehow I felt that in Sir Clements I should find a friend, and I knew that he took an interest in the welfare of Worcester boys. The interview could not have been more pleasant, although no decision was arrived at regarding my appointment. I was astonished to learn how much he knew of me and my record, and it was quite clear that my good chum had painted me in the most favourable colours. The difficulty of making a selection from so many apparently excellent men was pointed out, but I left convinced that my only rival was the young naval officer before mentioned. I was also informed that the decision would be conveyed to me in a few days' time. Now, although Sir Clements had com municated with the P. & 0. Company about granting me the necessary leave should I be appointed to the Relief Expedition, I found on calling at the Company's office that I had been promoted, and appointed to a ship sailing in a few days for Bombay. On enquiring as to their knowledge of my 24 SUSPENSE joining the Expedition, it was stated that such communication had been received some time before, but as no information on the matter was forthcoming from me, it was taken for granted that I had either been unsuccessful or had decided not to go, and had been promoted in the ordinary course of events. As a matter of fact, as I had only that very day known of the possibility of going in an expedition, I could hardly have com municated earlier. Seeing that my chances were favourable, I applied for, and was granted, the necessary leave. This was perhaps what one might term a sporting stroke on my part, but had I sailed away to Bombay my even doubtful chance would have been lost. One long anxious week passed by, and no information was forthcoming. The sus pense was trying, for the fascination of the adventure was gripping me, and I was in that frame of mind that to join the Ex pedition was my greatest ambition, even were I to serve in any subordinate position. Saturday arrived, and I could contain 25 THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' myself no longer. To wait over the week end seemed an eternity. Hiring a bicycle, I rode with all haste through Blackheath and Greenwich, and finding a short route through the Blackwall tunnel, soon arrived at the Morning. A scene of much activity now centred in the little ship ; running rigging was being rove off, sails bent, accom modation fittings placed, extra houses and lockers being constructed, and dray-loads of stores and gear were continually arriving and being stowed away expeditiously. Evans was in the thick of it, and I longed to be giving him a helping hand. I had hoped that he would be able to tell me the best, or worst, regarding myself, but he knew nothing. I explained everything that I had done in the matter, and there did not seem to be anything more to do. Whilst chatting on the little poop-deck, Evans, who was looking towards the dock gates, suddenly exclaimed, ' Well, here's the other man, Jose,' and in a few minutes my rival stepped on board. Evans introduced us, and although we assumed a nonchalant attitude, each had heard of the other. Mulock stated 26 TAKE BOTH! that although he had not heard definitely, he was given to understand that he would be appointed, and that his commission was on board. My chagrin may be imagined. Here was I within an ace of being accepted to sail with my best friend, and yet it certainly appeared as though all my fond hopes and air castles were to be ruthlessly demolished at the eleventh hour. The position was discussed thoroughly, and each displayed such a keenness to go in the ship that Evans considered it pertinent to offer the suggestion that both of us be ap pointed. This was characteristic of him — somewhat impulsive and wholly original — but I did not for a moment entertain in my mind any likelihood of this scheme taking effect, for the reason that the Expedition funds were low, and every extra man must, of necessity, be an additional expense. Evans, however, was optimistic, and having invited us to his half-built cabin, he presented us with some liquid in a tin pannikin, out of which we drank in turns success to the Antarctic Relief Expedition. 27 THE VOYAGES OF THE 'MORNING' This rite being duly performed, he stated that he himself would plead our cause to Sir Clements that very day, and as an after thought, before leaving, in the event of both being appointed, he tossed a coin for the re spective ranks of third and fourth executive, which fell favourably to me. More or less jubilant, I returned home, but looking at the bare facts fairly, my chance of success did not seem hopeful. Just before turning in that night a telegram arrived for me. It read : ' Cheer up ; both going. — Teddie,' 28 CHAPTER III Delight in new work — Preparing for the voyage — Endeavours to obtain a piano — ^Doubtful hopes — Piano ultimately supplied by Sir Clements — Departure from East India Docks — Cheering ships — SaUing down Channel — ^FareweU to England. It is difficult to describe exactly one's feelings when some deep sorrow or great joy suddenly overtakes one, and the joyous impression made by that telegram is hard for me adequately to express. For a considerable time I had been living in a perplexing state of doubt — the last few days, indeed, had been almost unbearable — ^and now, literally at the eleventh hour, came this very gratifying information. How it came about I did not at the time stop to consider ; the main fact was that all anxieties and doubts were dispelled, and I was now to join the Expedition. Through it all, however, was the feeling of a deeper esteem for my good chum, without whom 29 THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' my appointment could hardly have been secured. My duties commenced at once, and the work was absorbingly interesting, Evans and I were boys again, extremely happy, and the more we laughed and jested, the harder we worked. It was an ideal experience. We lunched together each day at a neighbouring hotel, and it was during these pleasant re treats that I learned the nature and extent of our undertaking, Evans was thoroughly conversant with the minutest details of the programme mapped out for our voyages, and in a very short time I was well posted in the intricacies of the proposed work of the Relief Expedition, The last week was naturally a very busy one, the days being fully occupied, and the evenings devoted to many farewell functions which were especially entertaining and inter esting. The day before sailing the equipping was practically completed, the only noticeable omission being a piano for the ward-room. There are some who would perhaps regard this item as an unnecessary luxury, but I can assure them that it is quite an important ad- 30 THE GIFT OF A PIANO junct, in that it undoubtedly tends to improve the feeling of camaraderie, so essential in an undertaking of this nature, and it is acknow ledged that most sailors are true lovers of music. As a piano was not included in the specifications, Evans and I conferred as to a means of obtaining one. Some ladies visiting the ship one afternoon remarked on this de ficiency, and the situation being explained (which, by the way, we never forgot to mention to any likely donor), one girl, carried away with enthusiasm, said that there was a spare piano at her home which she thought we could have. This generosity was quite touching, but we subsequently heard that when the suggestion was proffered, this well-meaning lady's parents politely but firmly refused to entertain any such extraordinary idea ! As the time drew on it seemed that our hopes in this direction were doomed to disappointment, until, the evening before departure, Evans volunteered, as a last resource, to approach Sir Clements on the matter. The night was far advanced when he arrived at Eccleston Square — so far, indeed, that Sir Clements was in the act of going to bed. A call at this late 31 THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' hour naturally caused surprise, and Evans, with profuse apology, explained the object of his nocturnal visit. As a friend in need Sir Clements was pre-eminent, and, realising how keen we really were, he arranged to present us 'vyith his own spare piano. This kind and generous action was in keeping with the whole hearted interest he always displayed in the welfare and comfort of each member of the Expedition. Early next morning a van was dispatched to convey the piano to the docks, but the day wore on and no piano arrived. Owing to a mistake in the address, or the stupidity of the driver, no van arrived at Sir Clements', and there was now no time for it to reach the docks before the ship sailed. Here, indeed, was a sad disappointment for us, and with small comfort and less effect, we hurled grave epithets at that carter's ancestry far back into the dark ages. A crowd had now gathered on the dock side, a bravery of bunting streamed from a hundred masts, the last fond farewells had been taken, cheers were ringing, and whistles were tooting their messages of ' Good luck' and 32 THE START ' Bon voyage,' ' Stand by ' had rung, and the picked crew were assembling at their allotted stations, when a commotion in the crowd,which gave way, permitted a van to range hurriedly alongside with the jangling of harness and panting of horses. In a trice the back was thrown open, a piano revealed, and with many willing hands, this last item in the Morning's equipment was unceremoniously dragged on board. This was Sir Clements' farewell kind ness. On learning that there was no hope of conveying his piano in time, he had despatched a servant with all haste towards the docks to purchase one at the nearest piano establishment, and this prompt and kindly action enabled the Morning to sail complete in every detail. The day was not attractive as far as the weather was concerned, but the good cheer extended from every quarter was impressive. Steamer after steamer passed by, tooting their whistles and dipping their ensigns. Each training-ship sent up a ringing cheer as we passed, and the lusty cheering that greeted us as we approached the old Worcester was not likely to be forgotten. It was a proud moment for Evans and myself. 33 THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' It is true that the sailing barges over hauled and occasionally passed us during our progress down the river, but what of that ? They could not face the tempests of oceans, nor the rigours of Antarctica ! It is true also that the tide turning caused us to come to anchor off Gravesend, and next day, owing to a headwind, it was found ad vantageous to anchor again off Deal. But our enthusiasm enabled us to overlook such drawbacks. A fresh fair breeze making, we eventually got under way, and setting the brand new suit of sails for the first time,the little ship bowled merrily down Channel, while we cheered and exchanged signals of good luck with ships of all nations. It was good to be alive ! Rounding to off Start Point, our pilot and the few good friends who had accompanied us thus far bade us a hearty farewell, the last cheers were given, and the Morning, heading for the open sea, sailed away into the unknown future. 34 CHAPTER IV Bay of Biscay — Unique experience of a piano — Morrison, a lyric writer — Coaling at Madeira — Regrettable result of ' chain lightning ' — ^The Equator — Court of Neptune. The Bay of Biscay enjoys a bad reputation, storms are of frequent occurrence, but for us it had no terrors, having donned its Sunday apparel of calm, sunny, and peaceful weather. Owing to the more important work of getting everything ship-shape during these early days, the piano had been left in undignified associa tion with various marine stores, ice-picks, and sledging equipment. Its turn of recognition, however, duly arrived, and an attempt was made to transfer this valuable asset to its permanent and more suitable environment. I use the word * attempt,' because it was soon discovered, to our utter perplexity, that neither door leading down to the ward-room was wide enough to permit of its passage. Here was 35 THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' an obstacle which demanded much ingenuity to overcome. It was inconceivable to think that after all the carefully wrought schemes to procure this useful and ornamental article for the ward-room, it would possibly have to spend its days in the obscurity of the sail locker on deck. The absurdity of our dilemma caused us, for a moment, to laugh outright. We were ' up against ' a proposition, however, which even the resourcefulness of the ' handy man ' failed to solve. Leaving the piano on deck, we went below to lunch, during which every practicable (and impracticable) suggestion was put forward to overcome the difficulty, but to no avail. It was not until after the meal that Morrison, the chief engineer, who had remained unusually reticent over the matter, submitted a scheme which was at once surprising and original. Rather apologetically, he assured us that he was no musician, but after carefully examin ing the inner construction and mechanism of the piano, he could not see that the instru ment would suffer any material detriment by being cut in half ! 36 THE PIANO DISSECTED This astonishing suggestion was received with wonder and incredulity, but as there seemed to be no other feasible solution, and as we had already begun to regard our chief engineer not only as a shrewd, but as an ex tremely practical and capable member, we eventually approved of his idea, and with much interest, witnessed his unique demonstration. The keys were easily unshipped, and each side of the key-board was carefully sawn through — the cook's meat-saw proving the most useful implement by reason of its ser viceable shape and general greasiness. The key-board was now detached from the main body of the piano, the parts passed down to the ward-room, and with the aid of some glue and a few wooden dowls, the key-board was once again neatly secured, the keys re-shipped, and, to celebrate the great achievement, a concert with the full crew was held that even ing. That piano was a blessing not to be over estimated, and we often wondered how we should ever have done without it. On Satur day nights in fine weather concerts were held for the crew, hymns were sung on Sunday evenings, and many a sweet memory of home 37 THE VOYAGES OF THE ' MORNING ' and loved ones was awakened by a hundred familiar melodies. The chief engineer, among many other ac complishments, proved to be a writer of more or less topical verses. Being of a musical turn, I arranged music for these, and my modest efforts at composition were, at any rate, a source of much pleasure to me. When one of these songs was to be inflicted upon the company, Evans always volunteered to give it what he termed ' a steam trial ' by singing it, and, if the trial were successful, the song was allowed the freedom of the ship. The following is the first song written, and may be of interest : — SOUTHWARD. As I fly on the wings of the Morning o'er the sunny tropic seas, When laughing waves dance round the ship and there's love in the song of the breeze, At night on deck, 'neath the starlit sky, when only the gods can hear, I think of a girl in the far Northland, and I wish that my love were near, And wish that my love were near me now, when only the gods can see, Lazily loving the hours away on the sunlit summer sea. 38 Wnan^ av I As 1 FLY ON THE VKilMM OF THE Monvilit', O'eR The Sun'NY TRO-PK 2. As I FLY WITH THE VJINeS OF THE "MoRNiNoT Qeh THE. CoLD JJARK ICE-30UND k z. MS 1 FLY WITH THE WflN JJ j- j^N J , rJi J J j =£: ^[irrif^'^jT # i A J J ^ J JU. J J nm SEAS SEAS. WHEN LAUOHINS- WAVES 3>ANCC HOUND THE SHIP AnO THERES WHEN SHOUTIN^ WAVES -RUSH -PAST THE SHIP AwD TME P\J J ^ JJIJ JJ JTS cft» " LovE IN THE Son© OF THE. FREEZE.. SToRMFiEND TRICES ON THE 3REE2C, At night on 3) EC k neath the On-thc wave, washed seek 'ncaththe. ^ ' ^ I'l f) STAR LIT SKY , WHEN ON- LY THE COBS CAN HEAR, I MURK - Y SKY, WHEM ON- LY THE. COBS CAN HEAR. I THINK OF, A SIRL IN THE FAR ' NOftTHLAND,;|Nn I WISH TIMT *(Y fcOyE 'vyERft THINK OF A