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G-ift of
Dr. Hiram Bingham
of the Class of 1898
1907

jSfiS

NARRATIVE

JOURNEY ROUND THE WORLD.

VOL. I.

NARRATIVE

JOURNEY ROUND THE WORLD,

COMPRISING

A WINTEE-PASSAGE ACEOSS THE ANDES TO CHILI^
WITH A VISIT TO THE GOLD REGIONS OE CALIPOENIA AND
AUSTRALIA, THE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS, JAVA^ &C.

BY P. GEESTAECKER.

IN THEEE VOLUMES.
VOL. L

LONDON:
HUEST AND BLACKETT, PUBLISHEES,
SUCCESSORS TO HENRY COLBURN,
13, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.
1853.

The Copyright of this Work is the exclusive Property of the Publisbeis,
Messrs. Hurst aud Blackett.
. Ec.4

LONDON :
Printed bv Schulzc and Co., 13, Poland Street.

TO
HIS DEAE LITTLE PEIEND,
SAEAH MAEY EICKAEDS,
or SYDNEY,
THESE VOLUMES ARE INSCEIBED
BY r
THE AUTHOR.

CONTENTS

THE FIEST VOLUME.

SOUTH AMEEICA.
CHAPTER I. PAOE
THE STAET  1
CHAPTER n.
EIO JANEIEO  12
CHAPTER III.
from; EIO JANEIEO TO BUENOS AYEES  23
CHAPTER IV.
BUENOS AYEES AND THE SUEEOUNDING COUNIEY  .SO
CHAPTER V.
THE SALADEEOS  56
CHAPTER VI.
TO HOESE  64

VUl CONTENTS.
CHAPTER vn. rAGZ
A EIDE ACEOSS THE PAMPAS  73
CHAPTER vni.
MENDOZA  114
CHAPTER IX.
A WINTEE PASSAGE ACEOSS THE COEDILLEEAS  126
CHAPTER X.
TALPAEAISO AND CHILI  171

CALIEOEXIA. CHAPTER I.
SAN FEANCISCO  211
CHAPTER n.
A TEIP TO THE GOLD MIKES IN IHE RAINY SEASON  224
CHAPTER tn.
SACRAMENTO CITY  273
CHAPTER IV.
MISSION DOLORES  2S8
CHAPTEE v.
THE MINES — AND TUE PEOPLE IX lUEM  316
CHAPTER VI.
THE INDIANS OF CALIFOENLA  343

NARRATIVE OF A
JOURNEY ROUND THE WORLD.

SOUTH AMERICA.

CHAPTER I.
THE START.
It excites a singular feeling to be on board
a vessel, still at anchor in the harbour of your
native country, but ready to start every minute
on a long, long voyage. You no longer belong
to your home, although, in fact, you have not
yet left it, nor have you yet begun your new
wandering life. You feel only this restless wait
ing, this not being able to leave the ship, and
hour after hour passed without your moving a
step. You find yourself for once in your life
between the future and the past, without a present,
and wish at last for that which you have so,
VOL. I. B

2 FIVE years' journey
dreaded before — the moment when you shall bid
farewell to your home.
But emigrants are not always visited by these
emotions. Most of them have closed their ac
count with their old mother country — ^leaving
mother country also not unfrequently in debt to
them, and feeling now only suspense. This
spreads over the whole ship, and people walk
about on deck with dissatisfied and peevish looks,
grumbling and growling, and by no means in a
humour for sentiment.
New passengers arrive without intermission,
and each seems to have thought of getting the
whole of Noah's Ark to himself, so completely
do they heap thfe decks with boxes, and trunks,
and chests, and are quite astonished to find not
the least possibility of stowing them away. But
after awhUe they and their boxes disappear in
the lower hold, and all is arranged satisfactorily.
The only quiet persons in this chaos of things
and objects are the sailors. Used to the confusion,
they look upon it as of too common occurrence
even to deserve a thought, and step imw with
a reaUy frightful indifference, through and over
the passengers' goods, which for them seem hardly
to exist.Wet weather makes things, as the reader may
think, only worse, and no wonder that many a
poor wretch coming here with quite another ex-

ROUND THE WORLD. 3
pectation, looks in such a case down in those
dark and sultry caves of the between-decks, which
shall be to him for so many months a dreary and
solitary home. How many intended emigrants,
if they could throw down such a look into such
a place, when their hearts were stiU wavering
between their old home and aU the splendid pic
tures others had given them of far-away lands,
would shake their heads, and turn back from the
Rubicon. But now it is too late, the die is cast,
and onward they must go.
But after a week at sea everything is changed.
Incredible quantities of baggage have found a place
where one would at first have thought that a carpet
bag would fill up the room ; and even the pas
sengers have got used to the air in their new
abode, and if they do not find it pleasant, they
feel at least that it is not so disagreeable.
Our passengers for California, on board the
good barque ' Talisman,' consisted of a really
interesting mass of people. They were chiefly
young men, who had shipped with such golden
dreams and hopes, as actuated the first Spanish
adventurers in searching for the long-promised
El Dorado. But we were a strange company.
There was neither a woman nor child on board,
and the passengers were all armed to the teeth.
One man carried a long single-barrelled fowling-
piece, with a spade on his shoulder, and a blue
B 2

4 five years' journey
cotton umbrella under his arm. Many indeed
had spades, and the arms displayed were of the
most miscellaneous character, including swords,
guns, dirks, muskets — ancient and modern — and
forming, as a whole, such an assemblage, that they
looked like the spoil of a curiosity-shop.
In this strange crowd the most singular figure
was a cutler from Magdeburg, a man of really
Herculean proportions, with curled beard and
hair, red cheeks, and kindly-looking grey eyes.
He wore a green hunting-shirt, or blouse, light
pantaloons, and a white broad-brimmed felt hat.
Round his waist was a white shining leather
belt, nearly five inches broad, and swinging to
this, first, a long straight sword, which rattled
after him over the deck, secondly, a smaller
hanger (HirschfaengerJ which, though of goodiv
dimensions, looked by the side of the sword
hardly longer than a table-knife, and close to
this Hirschfaenger he carried another still smaller
rhaspdirk, about eighteen inches in length. On
the other side he cai-ried another long dirk, with
two pistol barrels, and a proportional quantity of
pistols and terzerols.
This person was attended by three companions,
whose passage he had paid, and whom he was
taking with him to California. They were called
his satellites, or the little giants, and were dressed
exactly like himself, in the same green hunting-

round the world. 0
shirt and white belt, the same broad-brimmed
felt hat and large beard, only their arms, pistols
and knives, were rather smaller in proportion to
their own stature. The giant was a most good-
natured fellow, letting everybody take his sword
and knives from their scabbards ; and he wore a
continual smile on his broad and not unhandsome
features. He could not, I was told, ride on horseback,
and therefore had on board a small hand-waggon
or cart, to be drawn by the little giants, when he
got ashore.
It was on Thursday, the 22nd of March, that
we came first into green water, and left the last
buoy of the Weser behind us. We skimmed
along before a rattling breeze through the skipping
waves. But the motion of the vessel, particularly
right before the wind, was strong enough to make
most of the passengers feel " very cheap," as
Jonathan has it. Only some dozen could keep up
their heads ; and while we passed the North
Sea and Channel flying, all those who a few
days before had been such unruly characters, and
dreamt of nothing but gold and fortunes, were
lying in their berths sea-sick, sighing and groan
ing jn the most distressing manner. On Sunday,
after a run of sixty hours, we made the longitude
of the Scilly Isles, and were now at last in the
open sea.
vol. I. B 2 *

b FIVE YEARS JOURNEY
The same splendid breeze that made us cross
the path of many a poor homeward-bound vessel,
working her way against the wind, carried us to
Madeira, and there kindly gave us in charge of
the north-east trade-winds, which wafted us with
their balmy odours through smooth and sparkling
water, to warmer and more genial climes.
As long as we had a rough sea and cold and
unfriendly weather, there existed no quieter and
more peaceable people in the world, than our
hundred and two passengers. No grumbling or
quarrelling was heard all day, and at night the
sounds under hatches were chiefly snores. But
hardly did they feel the wind getting duller, the
air warmer, and the waves settling down, than out
they came again on deck to eat and drink, grumble
and quarrel. There was directly something the
matter with the water, and something with the
bread ; the meat smelled, and the cofi"ee did not ;
the berths were too small, and this one's trunk,
and that one's carpet-bag were stowed away where
they could not find them, which of course induced
a request to the mate to break open the hold
directly, and overhaul the boxes in quest of the
missing articles. Cursing and swearing were
sometimes drowned in laughing and singing, not
unfrequently interrupted by quarrelling parties, who
only agreed again in abusing the skipper, and the
provisions and watci'.

ROUND THE WORLD. 7
Our voyage in itself did not embrace many in
cidents. On the 13th of April, we made the
islands of Cape Verd, and passed right between
them, leaving San Nicolas to larboard, and next
morning having close on our lee-bow that gigantic
and desolate-looking island Fogo.
The rocky face of this singular volcano seemed
entirely barren, and we could not make out the least
bush or shrub ; but the rising sun shed, from a
clear and unbroken sky, her soft light upon rough
and towering masses, and overspread them with a
rosy trembling lustre.
Among the noisy passengers — noisy in play or
quarrel — there was one man, who took part in no
play or game, and spoke with nobody, who hardly
ever ate anything, and what little he did eat, took
in such a way as to show plainly that he only
regarded food as a necessity, and partook of it
merely to keep himself alive. He always tried to
find, in some corner of the deck, the most de
serted part of the ship, and there he sat by him
self, his head resting on his elbow, and his back
turned to the life on board, while his eye searched
the horizon, or hung listless on the blue and
swelling deep,
This man was home-sick. One day, he came up
to me, while I was leaning on the anchor stocks,
watching a small shoal of bonitas, and addressing
me, the tears glistening in his eyes, asked me, for

8 FIVE YEARS JOURNEY
God's sake, to speak to the captain, and obtain
permission for him to leave the ship in the first
homeward-bound vessel we should meet. He
said — and he sobbed more than he spoke, though
he tried to hide his emotion as much as possible —
he had acted thoughtlessly in leaving a happy home,
which, poor as it was, contained his wife and three
lovely children. He said that he could not forget
the moment when he bade farewell to his wife, and
when his children hung crying round his neck, and
begged him not to leave them. These thoughts
would not let him rest, and he saw, he felt now,
how wrong, how heartless, how cruel had been his
conduct, in so relentlessly turning his face fi-om
home. But they might meet a vessel, which
would take him home again ; and if he had spent
his small capital in paying his passage to Cali
fornia, though he was only a weaver, and must
now work hard day and night to make up for lost
time, he would work cheerfUly in liis own home,
and for his own wife and children.
As the man found more aod raore words for
the utterance of his grief, the teai'S — the soothing
tears — chased each other down his pde and care
worn cheeks. I tried everything in my power to
give his thoughts another direction, and his heart
some hope. I promised him, to be sure, to ask
the captain for the permission he sought ; but what
good could it do him, and where would he find in

ROUND THE WORLD. 9
the open sea a vessel, homeward-bound, the cap
tain of which would lay back to take a poor,
homesick passenger on board with his baggage.
He became calm, at last, and thanking me for the
kind words I had spoken to him, as he said, went
down into his berth, and I saw him no more
that day.
About eight days afterwards, coming nearer
and nearer to the line, Neptune paid us a visit, and
got paid very well for his trouble, finding a great
number of greenhorns on board.
The festivities created by this incident had
hardly passed, when we saw a sail coming right
up to us. It was the English packet ' Agincourt,'
Captain Nisbett, who sent a boat to us to get,
if possible, some German newspapers for a party
of German and Dutch passengers, whom the
' Agincourt' had taken in at Cape Town. We gave
the young officer, who came on board, all we could
spare, and half-an-hour afterwards the large and
beautiful craft was only a speck on the horizon.
My poor home-sick friend, who had been looking
eight days before with painful hope for such an
accident, though no ship would have waited to
take him on board, stood on the gangway in his
old place as long as she was in sight, sUent and
sad, and without moving a limb, never turning his
eye for a second from the strange vessel ; and
there he stood after the sun had sunk behind the
B 3

10 FIVE YEARS JOURNEY
horizon, and spread darkness over the vast deep,
with his eyes fixed on the point at which the ship
had disappeared. He had spoken to me again
the day before, but no longer wished to leave the
vessel, having reconciled himself to going on to
California. After a succession of most disagreeable calms,
each of which laid us up for about a week, we had
a good and refreshing breeze from the south-east,
the common trade-wind in these latitudes ; and
this breeze brought us some fine sport with por
poises. Though we speared several, however, we
could never get them on deck. The fact was,
that when the fish first showed themselves, there
was, ten to one, no harpoon to be found, or the
line was tangled or missing ; or, should this
accidentally have been in order — and I for one did
my best to keep it so — the ten or twelve stout
fellows planted at the line, to pull altogether at
the word, would get tired at the critical moment,
and all our care would be thrown away.
In the latitude of Cape Frio, and not far from
the Brazilian coast, we got a touch of the tropics
in a tolerably strong pampero. The proper place
for these winds is the mouth of La Plata, but
sometimes they reach up as high as this, and even
higher, not unfrequently doing great damage
among the shipping. A few days afterwards, in
deed, we saw a Brazilian man-of-war, which had

ROUND THE WORLD. 1 1
got dismasted in this very pampero, just before the
entrance of the Bay of Rio de Janeiro.
For several days we lay under close-reefed top
sails, and, at the same time, had the pleasure to
know that we were driving considerably out of our
course. A great many of the passengers became
sea-sick again, but the storm did not last long,
and on the 10th of May, we were once more able
to set sail. On the 11th, we made Cape Frio,
and from thence kept the picturesque coast of the
BrazUs in sight all day, reaching on the morrow
the entrance of the Sugar-loaf Mountain.
Early in the afternoon, we beheld that beautiful
panorama, which surrounds one of the most
splendid harbours of the world, and the closer we
neared the land, the more distinctly did the moun
tains and hiUs gain hfe and colour. Long and
seemingly straight ranges grew up in single groups,
showing separate peaks and ridges. We could
mark the outlines of vegetation, and even of trees
and shrubs ; and there, on those beautiful little
island twins — Naya and Maya, as the Portuguese
call them — rose the first cocoa-palms, with their
slender stems and graceful leaves, nodding a wel
come to the foreign visitors.

12 FIVE YEARS JOURNEY

CHAPTER II.

RIO DE JANEIRO.

In the tropics, night follows immediately on the
setting of the sun ; and entering soon after sun
down the Sugar-loaf Gate, as the entrance to the
harbour is called from the conical and most
singular-shaped hill on the southern head, we
could just see the lights shine out from the
opposite coast, where the city lies, and the dark
outlines of the nearest ships, the whole surrounded
by high and towering masses of mountain ridges.
Inside the entrance we were hailed from the
northern shore — from the Fort Santa Cruz — but
the voice sounded as if it came from the deep,
and the words being, of course, Portuguese, we
could not understand a word of it. But our super
cargo spoke the language, having some time ago
lived many years in the Brazils ; and he and the
gentleman in the fort conversed a little while in
such unintelligible roars, as arc heard occasionally

ROUND THE WORLD. 13
at sea, very much to the satisfaction of both parties,
from two passing ships.
A few minutes afterwards we dropped our
anchor not far from a brig we had nearly scraped
in coming in, and which also had German pas
sengers on board. She had come from Hamburgh,
and brought emigrants to the Brazils.
I waited impatiently for sunrise, and with day
break I was up ; but could see nothing of the
shore, as a thin fog or mist lay over the water,
and even the nearest ridges of the mountains were
but dimly visible. Soon, however, the sun arose ;
I could see the red orb through the vapoury veil.
Higher and higher it ascended ; the fog sunk down
to the water's edge, and hills and valleys, palm-
crowned isles, white shining forts, and shady groves
and villas, with hundreds and hundreds of ships
and skimming boats rose as by magic into view.
Where can I find words to picture the beauty,
the grandeur of that scene, as it appeared at that
moment ? Even the most indifferent of our pas
sengers stood on deck, without uttering a sound,
and saw in mute astonishment a new and glorious
world spring up around. Their first amazement
overcome, their tongues again won utterance, and
the words — " beautiful," " splendid," " glorious,"
were heard on every side.
Our principal care now was, to get as soon as
possible on shore ; but this could not be done till

14 FIVE years' JOURNEY
we were reported by the medical authorities to be
free from any epidemic. The doctor came at last
in his long yawl, pulled by eight negroes ; and as
there was not a sick man on board, he gave per
mission to crew and passengers to go ashore as
soon and as long as they pleased.
He had not left the ship — for we were aU
cocked and primed, and perfectly ready to go oflf —
when down dropped our yawl ; and four of our
sailors carolling forth an old German song : " The
Brazils are not far from here," pulled us ashore.
The city of Rio de Janeiro made a profound
impression upon us, as long as we saw it from
afar ; but it loses a great deal of its beauty — and
with how many things upon this wide world is not
that the case — on a nearer acquaintance. The
streets are, with very few exceptions, narrow and
dirty, and masses of slaves, with innumerable
coloured variations, meet the eye wherever it
wanders, exciting a painful feeling in the mind
of the European, which even the beauty of sur
rounding nature, hardly visible indeed in those
high and narrow streets, cannot soften.
But however much we might have been asto
nished at everything we saw — for nearly every
thing was new to us — we, on our part, could by
no means astonish the natives. " California," was
their invariable cry, wherever they met any one
of our party ; and as the harbour was at the same

ROUND THE WORLD. 15
time perfectly 'fiUed with emigrant ships for that
country, the word was constantly ringing along the
streets whenever any emigrants appeared.
One of our fellow-passengers, a little Jew from
Berlin, who dressed exceedingly fine, and, as he
thought, exactly in the fashion of Rio de Janeiro,
became at last so annoyed by these incessant ex
clamations, that he wished to free himself from
them ; and thinking the broad-brimmed black hat
he wore, the only possible mark by which his tor
mentors could guess the place of his destination,
bought himself a new and genuine Brazilian hat
— not even trusting the one he had on board,
though it was exactly of the same shape. He
paid an extravagant price for a rather indifferent
hat ; but as he smilingly stepped out from the
store with this prize on his head, which was to
class him among the sons of the soil, the first
sound that reached his ear was the dreaded and
detested greeting of " California."
A buU-fight being announced, some of us re
paired to the arena, to view the spectacle. We
found a pretty large arena surrounded by raised
and guarded wooden benches and boxes, just
white-washed enough to soil our dark clothing.
On one side were some large square boards,
painted over and ornamented with homely pictures
of men, behind which, as I found afterwards, the
bull-fighter sought shelter when hard pressed ; and

16 FIVE years' JOURNEY
all round the ring were fastened tong pieces of
wood, to afford him the means of climbing up out
of the reach of the enraged animals, when the
other retreat was not accessible.
A couple of veiy indifferent clowns tried to be
funny in the centre of the arena — one of them, a
counterfeit negro, executed also a few negro dances,
but nobody laughed. The Spaniards looked on
as sober as judges ; and an English sailor, a little
the worse for liquor, jumped down, and tried to beat
the clown ; but made off amidst roars of laughter
and applause when he saw the doors suddenly
thrown open, expecting, of course, that nothing
less than a couple of ferocious buUs, or some other
wild animals, were coming in. But the bulls were
not ready yet ; and the new-comers were only two
of the fighters on horseback, followed by six or
eight others on foot, aU attired in gaudy and
glittering dresses.
Behind them sneaked another figui'e, which was
no less a person than the fiend himself, who
had been promised to the public in the
large posting-biUs with prominent letters, as El
Diabo. He was dressed in his favourite colours,
yellow and red, which run in long stripes, about
three inches broad, from head to foot ; he sported
besides a small pair of black and tolerably soft
horns, and a long pliant taU of the same colour,
which dragged behind through the sand. At first.

ROUND THE WORLD. 17
we all thought he would be one of the most valorous
combatants of the whole ; but as soon as he saw
the buU coming, he slipped behind one of the
screens, and appeared soon afterwards close to the
main entrance behind the planks, and safe enough
from all danger.
One of the horsemen, clad as a Spanish knight,
and bearing an extraordinary resemblance to the
Emperor Napoleon, opened the battle; but the bull
showed the white feather, and would not fight. A
second buU was forthcoming — a little lively animal ;
it soon broke one of its horns, which were all
guarded by round wooden or metal balls, and was
unable to prolong the contest. A little black bull
followed afterwards, but worried by a numberless
crowd of men, and having his dulled horns rendered
nearly harmless, he did little to enliven the scene,
and soon tired out the spectators.
Finally, a kind of small pavilion, made of thin
lattice-work, pasted over with red paper, and having
four open doors, was raised in the arena, and in
this was placed a table and chairs, with some plates
and knives and forks, when the whole party of
men pretended to sit down to breakfast, while
another wild buU was let into the arena. Of course
he was expected to break into the pavilion, and upset
the table, and scatter the banquet ; but the bull was
too weU-bred to do any such thing, and nothing
could induce him to disturb the convivial party.

18 FIVE YEARS JOURNEY
The public, wearied at last at seeing none of
their hopes fulfilled, and the sun, at the same time,
sinking lower and lower in the west, turned their
attention to the nameless gentleman in the red and
yellow, and demanded with loud and clamorous
shouts, his appearance on the stage.
But Diabo did not seem to feel the least incli
nation to accept the invitation, and as the uproar
continued, disappeared behind the planks. But
the spectators now grew exasperated, and after a
perfect revolution, the manager was obliged to
bring his satanic majesty to light again. The poor
devil of a devU had to come forth, nolens, volens ;
and hardly did the bull get a glimpse of his red
and yellow figure, than he sunk his horns and
made at him. Diabo had no time to get out of
his way, and was pitched by the infuriated animal
bodily to the ground. The other performers now
jumped between, and succeeded at last in turning
the bull's attention from his ^dctim ; but Diabo had
had enough for that night, and left as quick as he
could, limping away amidst a perfect hurricane of
laughter and whistling.
But the spectators soon grew weary of the new
bull, though when we left, ten or twelve men were
still tormenting the poor beast, now nearly in the
dark, for the sun had set, and night was fast draw
ing on.
Next morning we hired horses and gallopped out

ROUND THE WORLD. 19
of town to see the green woods and plantations.
The Brazilian horses are small, but lively and
persevering animals, and nearly always move in a
short and easy gallop. But the merchants and
planters who live in the country on their plantations,
and of whom we met a great many coming to
town, chiefly ride mules, which, though they do
not progress as quickly as horses, certainly go more
easy. The environs of Rio are really beautiful — the
quiet, mirror-like bay with its forest of masts, and
the boats darting to and fro, the nice and luxuriant
gardens, with their orange and coffee-trees, bananas,
palms, and blossom-covered bushes ; the high pic
turesque mountains and rocks, which raise their
rough and broken heads over each other far in the
distance ; formed a picture as striking as it was
lovely. The scene, moreover, was animated in the
extreme ; and the white population and the slaves
were equally busy. The negroes carried their bur
dens to market with a merry song ; the cattle-
driver passed along with his wild little ponies, the
merchant and planter on his mule.
I felt very sorry to be obliged to depart so soon
from this beautiful country, but there was no remedy.
I had paid my passage to California by the ' Talis
man,' but I did not like the passage round Cape
Horn ; not on account of its danger, as the ship
was good and new, but I shrank from the idea of

20 FIVE years' JOURNEY.
being boxed up in a ship for so long a time, cut off
from the world, and without the least chance of
seeing anything of interest. I thought, therefore,
of going over to Buenos Ayres, and crossing the
Pampas on horseback, by which I might reach
Valparaiso in time to get on board the ' Talisman,'
at that port, and continue my journey in her to
California. But I heard such a bad account in
Rio Janeiro of the Argentine Republic, that at first
it made me hesitate. I was told that the people
themselves were of a false, treacherous, and blood
thirsty disposition, and to make matters worse, the
Pampas Indians, who had lately rebelled against
Rosas, were now pouring across the Pampas in
wild hordes, and spreading death and desolation
wherever they showed themselves. F.ven should I
escape these savages, and gain the foot of the
Cordilleras, there I would be opposed by another,
and, in fact, insurmoimtable obstacle, as at this
season of the year, the Cordilleras were " snow-
locked," and no human being could pass them.
In this dilemma, I remembered that when I
intended, in the winter of 1S38, to walk by myself
from Canada to Texas, everybody told me that it
would be impossible ; but I made the journey, and
got well and safe back again ; and this reminiscence
now determined me to pursue the route I at first
proposed, regardless of the terrible stories which
everywhere met my ear.

ROUND THE WORLD. 21
Preparations I needed hardly any, as I should
take only the most necessary things with me, and
it was only important to be well-armed. I
provided myself, therefore, with a double-barrelled
gun, a brace of pistols, and my old American
bowie-knife, and then found myself perfectly
equipped for the Pampas. I took also a good
blanket, half-a-dozen shirts and socks, and a grey
wooUen-hunting shirt, with high water-boots and a
black broad-brimmed hat.
Luckily there was at the time a small Hamburg
schooner under the flag of the Argentine Republic,
lying in the bay, ready to start for Buenos Ayres.
She had come in from the Cape Verd Islands,
loaded with salt, only to inquire the price and be
off again, if she did not sell her cargo. The
captain, a German, as jovial a little fellow as
ever stamped a quarter-deck, having made up his
mind to seek the Buenos Ayres market, I soon
agreed with him for my passage. The fourth day
after my arrival at Rio, we were to sail, and I was
left to enjoy myself in the meantime as much as I
could. It would at that time have troubled anybody to
find enjoyment in Rio, the hotels and taverns being
all crowded with passengers for California, and
the most extravagant prices being asked for the
humblest board and lodging, though it often did
not include the accommodation of a bed. The

22

FIVE YEARS JOURNEY

bills for this sumptuous entertainment were always
made out in reis, the currency of the covmtry ; and
though the amount was only a few dollars in this
coin, one seemed to expend a fortune in a dinner.
Take the following bill for a breakfast for three,
at a French coffee-house, as an example :

Chicken . .

. . 2,000 reis

Salad . . .

1,280 „

Cucumbers

. . 1,280 „

Bread .

. . 240 „

Oranges

. . 400 „

Cigars (six)

. . 600 „

Wine

SOO „

6,600 reis.
The whole sum amounting to little more than
three doUars and a half.
At last I got safely with all my things on board
the ' San Martin.' Up went our anchor, a light
but steady breeze swelled our sails ; and two hours
afterwards the splendid bay of Rio de Janeiro lay
behind me like a beautiful dream.

ROUND THE WORLD. 23

CHAPTER III.
FROM RIO DE JANEIRO TO BUENOS AYRES.
For the first day or two we had very light
winds, sometimes even calms, but that did not last
long, though I found that I must not count on a
quick passage of five or six days, as the wind be
came contrary; and on the 21st, a flying pampero
turned the peacefiil swelling ocean into a wild and
roaring sea with mountainous waves, which tossed
about our nut-sheU of a vessel in the most alarming
manner. The pampero — for I remember it too well not
to say at least a few words about it — is a kind of
periodical gale, which derives its name from the
wide pampas or plains in the west and south-west,
over which it blows, gaining force and power the
farther it proceeds. The first sign of a pampero
is generally a sharp north wind, wliich changes gra
duaUy more and more to the west, and hardly has
the wind gained this point, when a heavy rain sets

24 FIVE years' JOURNEY
in, and with this comes the first squaU — the first
puff of the pampero. So abruptly does this some
times happen, and so rapidly does the wind, in
such a case, fly round the compass, that many a
ship, whose captain has been ignorant of the pre
monitory signs, has lost her masts, before a sail
could be reefed or taken in, and not a few have
been wrecked on the low and treacherous banks of
the wide and desolate river. WTien the fiiry of
the pampero has been expended, the wind commonly
changes towards the north, or south-east, and
at the same time becomes more moderate.
On the 26th, getting in sight of the northern
shore, we observed some low hUls in the distance,
and on the 27th, made the Island of Lobos, so-
called from the immense quantity of seals that
frequent its shores. We saw hundreds of these
animals in the water, and the captain, who wanted
a few skins, offered to let do\\Ti the boat if I would
endeavour to kill some. A few minutes later we
were in fuU chase, and I shot eight without cap
turing one. As quick as they were struck by the
baU, they rose out of the water and showed their
bleeding skulls, but sunk before we could get
near enough to lay hold of them. At last I shot
one in the neck, and it stmck furiously about in
the water, giving us time to come near and seize
one of its fins.
There had been a dead calm the whole after-

ROUND THE WORLD. 25
noon, and the weather as fine and warm as we
could wish, but we had hardly got the seal on
board the boat, when we heard the speaking-
trumpet of the captain, hailing us to return.
Knowing directly that there was something amiss,
we puUed back as hard as we could, and then
found that the barometer had fallen in such a way
as to give a fair promise for another pampero.
The sailors, indeed, had just taken in the light
canvas, reefed the topsails, and made everything
snug, when the pampero came with a vengeance.
We could hear it roar over the waters, from afar.
In a few minutes, and before it had even time to
blow very hard, the wind changed over to the west,
and a quarter of an hour afterwards, we had as
fine a pampero again, with a perfect deluge of rain,
as heart could wish for. The storm howled
through the rigging, and whistled through the
blocks, while the few yards of canvas given to
the wind, were stretched to the utmost, so that
we had to lose no time in taking them in. At the
same time, the sea rose, but the storm had so
much power that it clipped the waves as soon as
they lifted their heads above the level of the main
rolling sea, carrying the white and glittering spray
away with it.
Before night set in, that smaU island we had
made in the morning, had long sunk below the
VOL. I. C

26 FIVE years' JOURNEY
horizon, and we were drifting on the open sea back
again. The storm raged aU night — the rain splashed,
the sea washed on deck, and the Uttle vessel got
so unruly, that I was twice pitched out of my
berth. The next day there was very Uttle dif
ference. At table the plates jumped about Uke
living things ; no spoonful of soup could be con
sidered safe until it was swaUowed, and if you
wanted both hands to eat with, you wanted, at the
same time, both legs to hold on by. It was a
miserable day, and, to console us, the wind blew
right in our teeth, and drove us steadUy to lee
ward. On the second day of the pampero we beheld a
most singular spectacle, which I shaU never forget.
A high sea was running, and the howUng west
wind lashed the waves furiously, whUe the smaU,
but heavUy-laden craft worked up and down, some*-
times butting her head right against a perfect mass
of seething foam, which made her tremble dowm
to her bottom, sometimes rising again into the
arms of another roUer, when the voice of a saUor-
boy directed my attention to an object ahead.
The little fellow, who was as pale as a ghost,
stretched out his one hand towards the sea, and
foUowing the direction indicated, I perceived a
large wooden cross, which swam on the waves,

ROUND THE WORLD. 27
and, raised up by the roUing sea, at this very
minute stood nearly upright, not twenty yards be
fore the bow of the vessel. The next minute it dis
appeared among the foaming waters, which swept
it past, but in a few seconds it stood up again,
this time half-covered by the wave, and then it
disappeared. Fortunately we had no priest on board, or he
would certainly have seen a dreadful warning in
such a sign. As it was, some of the sailors did
not half like it, and looked rather gloomily after
the swimming piece of wood.
Where it came from it would be difficult to ima
gine, but probably it had been washed away from a
grave-yard, or from some secluded spot close to
the beach, where in former times a corpse had
been washed ashore, and buried where it was
found. The captain reckoned on a south wind coming
after the pampero, and in this expectation hugged
rather close the right shore of the Plate River, just
below the Punta de Piedras, which juts far out to
wards the east. But instead of a south wind, we
got a real honest north-easter, and were now stuck
in a corner, and could not get out. Hence we had to
crawl on short tacks slowly and tediously up to the
Punta del Indio, opposite to which a Ught-ship was
moored — at that time, and I really believe even up
c 2

28 FIVE years' JOURNEY
to this, the only one in the La Plata. Here we
were to find a pilot, who would take us up to the
outer road of Buenos Ayres.
The closer we drew to the Ught-ship the more
the wind bettered, and we had hardly got the
pUot — an old grey-headed American — when we
were able to brace up our yards, and run with a
light but favourable breeze up-stream.
It is a nasty water this La Plata, fuU of banks
and dangerous shoals ; and we had, as the breeze
freshened, to keep one man, and sometimes two,
constantly in the chains, throwing the lead. A
vessel has, therefore, reaUy to feel her way through
the dangers that surround her on every quarter;
for no shore is to be seen, except occasionaUy a
low, dark strip of land, with a few scattered trees
or high bushes. But the old American knew
what he was about, and seemed to be a sober,
quiet feUow, even refusing, when he came on
board, a little glass of absynth I offered him.
He told me that he hardly ever drank anything.
With the setting sun the wind rose higher
and higher, and after dark wc had a stiff south
easterly breeze, just strong enough to carry what
sail we wanted, and to go up-stream about seven
knots an hour.
Right in our wake we had a Swedish brig,
which, coming over fi-om the east to take the

ROUND THE WORLD. 29
western channel of the Ortis bank, could get no
pUot, as we had taken the last from the light-ship,
and she was now doing her best to keep us in
sight. She had hard work of it, our little schooner
shooting like a duck through the water.
At two o'clock in the morning — an hour sooner
than the pilot had expected — we saw the anchored
ships in the outer, road. Being rather close upon
them, we steered a couple of points higher, dropped
our light canvas, clewed up the great and foresaU,
and five minutes later, as we discerned the distant
lights of the city, we dropped our anchor.

30 FIVE YEARS JOURNEY

CHAPTER IV.
BUENOS AYRES AND THE SURROUNDING COUNTRY.
The roadstead of Buenos Ayres is by no means
favourably situated, for only very small vessels can
come within a mile, or a mile and a half of the
town, whUe aU those which draw above ten feet
have to stay out about four mUes on the river,
which is only very Uttle better than the open sea.
Our Uttle schooner roUed so heavily on the high
waves which roUed up from below, that we had to
stretch out a stay-saU, to keep her a bit steadier ;
but we found even that did very little service.
With such a wind, boats can hold no commu
nication with the shore, as the breakers would
dash them against the rocks at the landing,
and consequently \m" had to stop the first day
on board. It was now Sunday, just a week since
I had shot seals in the mouth of the river.
On the second day, the wind abating a little,
we saw two mcn-of-wars' boats pass to shore ; but

ROUND THE WORLD. 31
our pilot thought it too dangerous for us to run
the risk, and endeavoured to persuade us to wait
a day longer. The fact was, he had some very
good reasons for staying a little longer in the
neighbourhood of our cupboard. After all, he
had got to like my absynth ; and if it was a
fact that he hardly ever tasted strong drinks,
he made for once an exception in my favour.
As soon as the anchor touched the ground, he
remembered the Uquor, and came down for a
dram, and from that time he stuck to the bottle
like a cork. There was yet a small drop left,
and he did not wish to see that wasted. But
the captain, not w^anting to wait any longer, as
several other vessels had come in, most of them
with heavy freight, and also carrying salt, was
urgent to go on shore, and determined at least to
make the attempt.
The old pUot, finding that we would really
stop no longer on board, took a parting dram,
but a good one, and declared his readiness to
accompany us. My luggage did not take long
to ship. My gun I took between my knees,
resolved, if we had to swim for it, to have it
handy ; and away we went, rocking and jumping
over the roUing waves, with a stout breeze standing
stiff and full in our Uttle sail, at the rat^ of about
seven knots an hour. But though landing with
such a breeze right against a rocky and tolerable

32 FIVE YEARS JOURNEY
surfy shore, was a little dangerous, we got safely
on terra firma, without even a wetting.
Up to this moment the boat had demanded
my entire attention, and the sail, as long as we
skimmed along before the wind, shut out the
whole view towards the city ; but now the sail
came down by the run, having nearly the same
effect as if a curtain had been drawn away ; and
I reaUy do not know from that moment forward
what we did, or even how we got out of the boat,
so entirely was I taken up vnth the new and
strange scene by which I found myself so sud
denly surrounded.
Right before me — so close that I could have
thrown a smaU pebble through the open door of
the nearest house — lay Buenos A\Tes. The shore,
over whose rocky cliffs the breakers drove with
resistless violence, swai-med with the most fantastic-
looking figures I ever had dreamt of. Dark and
sun-burnt faces with strongly-marked profUes,
peered at us from under black or red caps, aston
ished at our landing in such a surf with a long
boat, and perhaps \\ith their curiosity excited by
our outlandish appearance.
Red was the fashionable colour in this country ;
and wherever the e\e turned, a blood-red poncho,
or cap, or waistcoat presented itself. Even the
captain and pilot had adopted the prevailing taste,
and throwing open their over-coats, displayed gor-

ROUND THE WORLD. 33
geous red waistcoats, vieing with those of the
natives. Round their hats, too, they wore red rib
bons ; and red ribbons, emblazoned with some, black
letters, dangled from their button-holes.
The picturesque style of the men's dress, height
ened the effect of the lively colours. Among the
lower class, the head is covered by a red cap stuck
rather saucily on one side ; round the neck they
invariably wear a red handkerchief, and from below
this the poncho, a large square piece of cloth, with
a smaU slit in the middle, just large enough to
allow the head to pass through, hangs in easy
folds over the shoulders, when it is buttoned up
over the right arm, so as to allow the limb free
action. Tasseled drawers encase the legs, and
another vestment is fastened first behind the back,
on the belt, and then taken up between the knees,
forming a second poncho, which they call the che-
ripaw. Shoes are worn by some, but the guacho, as
the gentleman of the Pampas is called, despises tan
ned leather, and wears boots made of the hide strip
ped from the hind feet of a young horse,, not
unfrequently kiUed expressly for this very pur
pose. From this bota, as it is named, the hair is
cut off, and the two first toes stick out at the end,
and just fit the small stirrups used here in riding.
Thus attired, and having a knife about two feet
long sticking in a belt behind his back, the guacho
hangs in his saddle, the bridle lazily resting on the
c 3

34 FIVE years' journey
pommel by his left hand, while the right is propped
up against the coiled lasso, which is never wanting,
and he watches with dark and attentive brows the
movements of the kringo, or foreigner, whom he
detests. Then throwing himself suddenly back, he
claps spurs to his horse, and gaUops away over the
beach with the swiftness of the wind.
Even the houses in this country have something
pecuUar in their aspect, and their dark bricks, flat
roofs, and small, square, grated windows seize the
attention at once. I could have stopped there, at
the very landing, half a day just looking at these
quaint dweUings, and the passing and repassing of
the denizens, had not the captain abruptly told me
to pick up my gun and saddle-bags and foUow him
to the custom-house.
We were not kept long waiting at this barrier,
and I took up my quarters at the very next door,
in a private boarding-house kept by a Mrs. Davies,
and which proved to be a good and comfortable
place. My first care now was to make some inquiries
respecting my intended route across the Pampas
and CordiUeras to Valparaiso, and had I been one
easily frightened, what I learned would at once
have decided me. There was not a person that I
spoke to but told me it was at this time of the
year, with the Indians in fuU rebeUion, sweeping
in murderous bands across the country, an enter-

ROUND THE WORLD. 35
prise which it would be downright madness to
attempt. As to the Indians, such desperate savages
were never before heard of, and I was gravely in
formed that they never made prisoners except
young girls whom they carried away to their wUd
haunts, simply cutting the throats of their male
captives and then letting them run. Even should
I reach Mendoza — almost an impossibUity — I
should have to stop there at least till December or
January, as the mountain gulUes and paths, at this
time of the year, were impenetrable, being perfectly
locked up by immense quantities of snow.
Mr.T. Graham, of Ohio, the American consul,
to whom I am really under great obligations for
his incessant kindness and courtesy, did all in his
power to try and obtain some more cheering infor
mation for me, but to no purpose. In short, every
one tried to dissuade me from the journey, but I
determined, be the consequence what it might, to
set out.
Meanwhile, I devoted the few days I was to
spend in Buenos Ayres, to seeing as much as 1
could of the country. Feeling generally a great
interest in emigration, and being in fact commis
sioned by our, at that time, governing central
power, to make an official report of the capabUities
of all those lands which I should think eligible for
such a purpose, I took great pains to ascertain
the real state of the country, and made several

36 FIVE years' journey
excursions into the interior with this view. I found
it remarkably promising ground for the herdsman
as weU as the farmer. But in truth, this part of
the world presents a very singular appearance to
one accustomed to our northern clime. The entire
want of trees in the plains, caUed by the inhabitants
the campo, is a striking feature in' the landscape.
As far as the eye can reach, nothing breaks the
view on any side. In the neighbourhood of the
town there are low bushy hedges, or fences of aloe
and cactus, but farther on is the wide, grassy plain,
unrelieved by any object.
The aloes, with their flower stems and large,
fleshy leaves, fi-inged with hard and dangerous
thorns, have a very pretty appearance, and some
times rise to a height of twenty-fom- feet. They
also make most exceUent fences, even better than
the cactus, for no horse or cow, or even pig,
will venture to crawl between them, so closely
do the sharp leaves grow ; and once in growth,
they need no more attention, but, on the con
trary, continuaUy give forth new shoots for other
fences. So badly off ai-e the settlers here, and even the
inhabitants of the towns for fuel, that they plant
groves of jieach-trees, and when they are a few
years old, cut them down for fire-wood. This is,
of course, a great drawback in respect to their
making the most profit out of their herds of cattle

ROUND THE WORLD. 37
and sheep, as they can never obtain the taUow of
the animals so cheaply as to make the boiling down
remunerative. The soU seems exceedingly good, and wherever
I inquired — and I found round there a great many
of my own countrymen in the province — I was in
formed that the land would give, with the least
cultivation, a very good harvest, and produce ex
ceUent wheat and sweet potatoes.
On my first trip I passed an old monastery,
now in a most desolate state, the walls, in many
places, cracked and tumbled down. The church
was plundered of everything, but the wooden altar
was yet untouched, and on this were hanging
some tattered rags of the former embroidered
altar-cloth. Here and there, too, high up in a
corner, too elevated to be easily got down, were
some old forgotten nosegays of artificial flowers, as
faded as if their bloom had once been real, and
which, in former times, had probably adorned the
shrine of some old saint or martyr.
This place was inhabited by a company of
Pampas Indians, who had been taken prisoners in
one of the late wars with the governor, and were
now kept here, apparently free, but in reality,
carefuUy guarded. Rosas gave them an allowance
of beef, without mustard, every day, water they had
hard by, and they found a shelter in the old crazy
cells of the deserted monastery, where they had

38 FIVE years' journey
struck camp, and stretched their beef-hides in every
direction. What did they want more ?
These were the first Pampas Indians I had seen.
A stout-built, strong race of people they were, with
prominent cheek-bones, low foreheads and dark
restless eyes. Their hair was black and long, Uke
that of their northern brethren, whom they re
sembled also in colour, and in their whole appear
ance, except that they were not quite so tall.
They were as dirty a set as one could wish to
see. Turning back to town, I passed Governor
Rosas's quinta, or summer residence, situated close
to the bank of the river, and surrounded by a
growth of tolerably high nvUIows, which gave the
whole place a pleasant and shady appearance.
The quinta itself looks Uke a large colonnade, in a
square, or block. It is a low and homely-looking
buUding, surrounded on the inner as outer side by
columns, which support verandahs, asr retreats
from the heat of the sun.
Not far from the quinta there stands one of the
most singular garden-houses imaginable. This is
nothing else than a real American brig, standing
high and dry, Uke Moses in the bulrushes, among
the wiUows of the bank. It leans against high
props, and is provided, for the accommodation of
crew and passengers, with a wide and commodious
stairea.se. This brig was blown once, by a south-

ROUND THE WORLD. 39
eastern gale, on this place, high up on the bank,
without the least possibility of getting her down
again. Governor Rosas bought the hull and made
a pavUion of it. The lower masts, crossed by
a couple of spars, remain standing ; and the
interior, steerage and cabin, has been formed
into one large and lofty saloon. Formerly,
music might be had on board, through the
agency of a barrel organ ; but the Argentine
gentlemen, who were the performers, thought the
machinery would work as weU backwards as
forwards, and spoUed the organ by grinding the
wrong way.
Rosas kept at the quinta half-a-dozen tamed
avestruses, or South American ostriches, three
guanakas^_.a species of lama, an Argentine lion or
puma, and a tiger from Paraguay, secured only by
a very thin chain round the neck, which he could
have broken, I am sure, with one bound, had he
but tried: But they had cut his claws and filed
his teeth, and it was a consolation to reflect that, if
he should break loose, he could only squeeze one
to death.
Between the quinta and the town are the bar
racks of the regulars, and I stopped here awhile to
see a parcel of blood-red artiUery manoeuvre with
tolerable dexterity.
Strangers are aUowed to look at the regulars at
exercise, but when the miUtia are ordered out, every

40 FIVE years' JOURNEY
one else is ordered in, and nobody dares to show
his face, either in the streets, or even on the top of
his own house, or behind the windows. The
miUtia and the irregular soldiers are reaUy the
most desperate-looking characters I have ever seen.
Here, would be observed a pair of trowsers and one
shoe ; there, two shoes and no trowsers, but merely
the cheripaw. A handkerchief would be tied round
the head, or it would be buried in a red cap ; whUe
the eye feU on uniforms of aU colours, or no uni
forms at aU, guns of aU sizes, and many without
guns, and ranged on every side.
It formed, some time ago, one of the greatest
amusements of Europeans to watch this array, and
every manoeuvre provoked new laughter. But
Rosas did not like this ; and as he could do with his
republicans whatever he pleased, he passed a biU to
have every store shut whUe the mUitia were out,
the pretext being that the foreigners drove their
trade with advantage whUe the citizens of the
republic were on duty in the service of their
country. So far, this law would only have been
just, but Rosas went farther, shutting up everybody
in their houses ; and whoever was found abroad,
was liable to be taken up and punished by fine or
imj)risonment. Even traveUers had to turn in, as
soon as they came to a place where the niUitia
were training ; the herdsman had to leave his
cattle, and the farmer his plough, and only those

ROUND THE WORLD. 41
boys who took care of the sheep, were aUowed to
remain in the fields.
Rosas was a severe dictator, and did not allow
much joking with his laws, but it may be urged in
his favour that he had a wUd and rough set of
subjects, and it required a strong hand to keep
them in order. A stronger or more pitiless one
than his it would have been hard to find, even in
that wild country.
Rosas took very good care that they should
never forget whose government they were under,
and as it had grown a perfect law for the citizens
of the republic to wear the red waistcoast, so they
were obliged to assume also a red ribbon at the
button-hole, inscribed with this device :
" Viva la confederacion Argentina mueran los
salcajes, asquerosos, inmundos, Unitarios " (The
Argentine republic shall prosper, but perish the
savage, dirty, and undergrown Unitarios). A fine
sentiment, at any rate.
This motto meets the eye of the stranger every
where. There is no proclamation issued without
this being at the head of it ; no paper is printed,
no public or private advertisement appears, without
the threatening words. They are stamped on the
theatre biUs, and present themselves five or six
times in every almanac. They must be the first
words in every written document; and even on
every letter a citizen of the Argentine repubUc

42 FIVE years' journey
sends by the post, he has to write on the address
his " viva " for the repubUc, and his " mueran "
for her enemies — it may be for himself.
The life in the streets of the city possesses
much interest for the stranger. The wUd forms
of the guachos (as the inhabitants of the country
are called) with their flowing kerchiefs over their
heads, and picturesque ponchos, lend a pecuUar
aspect to the scene. Large clumsy waggons, drawn
by oxen, roU slowly along, with their gigantic
wheels often ten feet high. Every morning, guacho
boys come early to town on horseback, ^^^th two
tin cans fuU of mUk, but having one naked leg
hanging down from the sheep-skin saddle, and the
other foot drawn up under their seat. There are also
ragged black soldiers, sometimes real specimens, who
might be kept amongst the curiosities of a cabinet
in alcohol ; for Rosas liked his negro mUitary.
At the same time, the predUection of e\-ery one for
a glaring red colour — the low houses with their
grated windows, and those slender beautiful forms
which glide, tightly wrapped in theii- mantiUas, with
light and clastic steps through the very centre of
dangerous-looking groups of dark-\asaged men,
with their long knives sticking in their belts —
all this often seemed to me as if it were not real,
but only a gaUy-coloured picture created by the
imagination. Recovering from such a trance, I
would feel 1113' blood thriU quicker and more briskly

round THE WORLD. 43
through my veins, if by a lightning thought I
aroused myself to the fact that I was reaUy in the
very midst of this stirring life, and able to choose
my own course of action.
With the kind help of Mr. Graham, who never
wearied of doing me a favour when an oppor
tunity occurred, I found an old Spaniard, who had
lived a long time in Mendoza, a smaU place at the
very foot of the CordiUeras ; and who, though he
was ignorant of the present state of the interior, as
far as it was infested by the Pampas Indians,
informed me that if I could get to Mendoza, there
was, even at this advanced season, a chance of my
being able to cross the snowy mountains, should I
not be overtaken on the way by a snow-storm.
The correo (courier) from ChUi, he told me, some
times went over in winter. I might do the same,
if I could find a guide, and was determined to
brave the worst.
This was aU I wanted, and with a lightened
heart I commenced my few preparations for the
excursion, having learned that in about eight or
ten days a correo would start from this place to
Mendoza, who most probably would like very
much, in the unsettled state of the interior, to have
an armed companion. Through an English gen
tleman, I got acquainted with this old Argentinian,
and made a bargain with him by which he was to
find fresh horses for me on the road, and pay at

44 FIVE years' journey
the different stations for ray board. The distance
was three hundred and nineteen leagues, of not
quite three miles, for which I gave him four ounces,
in value at that time just sixty-four doUars ; and
though he had certainly a very fair profit, it is
always better to be cheated by one person, than to
undergo that process at every station, for cheated
the traveUer wUl find himself, manage how he may.
But though he found the horses, I had to provide
my own saddle and bridle ; and I foUowed the
advice of some experienced old stagers — among
others my own landlord, who told me always to
prefer for such a long ride, an old saddle to a new
one, as it was more smooth and pUable, and would
ride a great deal better than the best new saddle.
It had, moreover, the additional advantage of being
cheaper, and I got a tolerably good recado, with
bridle, for seven doUars. I bought also a pair of
the colossal Argentine spurs for the benefit of the
different horses ; and furnished with the native
revenca — a broad and heavy whip, cut out of a
strip of raw leather, with a short handle to it, and
an iron ring — I was prepared to set forth.
One dltficulty I had yet to overcome, and that
was a most serious one — I did not understand the
Spanish language ; and having only thought of this
voyage a few weeks ago, had certainly had no
time to study it. What was to become of me,
after my first start with the old correo, who, of

round the world. 45
course, had not the least idea of any other language
in Christendom, I could not imagine ; but I thought
it worse than useless to make myself uneasy before
the time. I had not yet tried what I could do,
and there is always a way to make one's self under
stood, if one only wUl try.
The correo thought of starting about the 16th
or 1 7th, and I had yet time to look round in the
new place I was in. To lose as little as possible
of this I accepted with the greatest pleasure an
invitation from one of my countrymen, a merchant
at Buenos Ayres and Bremen consul, to accompany
him to his estancia.
We started on Saturday afternoon to have the
whole Sunday before us, and the distance was only
about three leagues. The first two leagues we
found ourselves, with very little interruption,
hemmed in on both sides by hedges and small
plantations ; and though some places here looked
peculiar enough, I felt uncomfortable as long as I
saw so many signs of civUisation around me. I
wanted to reach the campo, the free Pampas ; and
got tired of seeing nothing but habitations, fields,
and gardens.
Many parts of the road, principaUy in low
muddy places, were paved with sheep's skuUs ; even
sorae fields were fenced in along the road, fre
quently for a hundred yards or more, with nothing
but cattle skuUs — the horns aU stuck up with perfect

46 FIVE years' journey
regularity, to give the whole a finish. Dead cattle,
sheep and horses, lay at the same time everywhere
on the road — very frequently in the middle of it —
impregnating the air with a poisonous stench. —
Buenos Ayres !
The horses were not the least alarmed at this
Utter of carcases. In Europe they would have
shied or refused to pass, but here they were so
used to the thing that they would leap, with the
greatest indifference, right over what might be
their dead kindred. Cattle graze close by, where
some of their own herd Ue rotting, and show not
the least concern either for their dead comrades, or
their own noses.
Leaving the gardens and fields, we stUl kept in
sight of some low bushes or smaU plantations of
peach, paradise, and other crippled trees ; but a
few leagues farther on, even these disappeared, and
left one wide unbroken ocean-like plain, affording
pasture to innumerable heads of cattle, and the
scene of many a bloody battle fought to free and
to subdue a people.
After a couple of hours' easy gaUop we reached
the place of our destination, and I found myself,
for the first time, at a real estancia on the campo
of the Plate river.
These estancias, as they are caUed — farm would
not express the real meaning of the word — are
only in some cases plantations, and in the interior.

ROUND THE WORLD. 47
most of them serve but to give the cattle-holders
and their peons or servants a shelter. The peons
frequently have hardly that, but live in enclosures
used to pen their herds. Often country-people do
not even try to raise vegetables for their own use.
Meat is their chief nourishment, and the Argen
tinian may be said to eat meat with meat.
What the cocoa-palm is to the South Sea
Islander, his herds are, in most , respects, to the
guacho. The hides he uses in divers ways — as
a thatch for his hut and a coverlet for his bed,
for his corn-crib and ropes, his saddle and bridle,
his boots and sacks. The meat is nearly his only
nourishment, and even with the dung and bones
he kindles his fire and cooks his meals.
But here the difference between a country whose
inhabitants live on vegetables, and one where meat
forms the main, and often only food, becomes
evident. These estancias are entirely wanting in
the homely, quiet, and pleasing outlines of a farm,
and the cleanly cheerful life, whose main stock of
provisions is vegetables, is missing here ; while on
every side death and putrefaction betray the rough
trade of the cattle-breeder.
Wherever the eye ranges, round the dweUings
of these estancia holders, it meets or marks the
traces of butchered or faUen animals. In every
direction you see stretched hides, pUed-up intes
tines, skulls, horns, hoofs, bones, and pools or

48 FIVE years journey
signs of blood. Thousands and thousands of
buzzards, hawks, and sea-gulls flap their wings over
these places, or stand over-gorged, too lazy to fly,
on some old skeletons in the neighbourhood. A
stranger's nose has reaUy first to get used to the
disgusting fresh scent of meat and blood, let alone
putrefaction. Even the elsewhere peaceful and herbivorous
domestic animals, change their nature and accom
modate themselves to unavoidable circumstances.
Chickens, geese, and turkeys, live entirely upon
meat, and hogs are fattened upon it. Can it be
wondered at, that the inhabitants of this country,
continually butchering, and for ever surrounded by
death and blood, become themselves wUd and
blood-thirsty, and learn to think, only too often, no
more of a human life than that of a calf or a
horse. An immense quantity of wild water-fowl enlivens
the smaU creeks and ponds and lakes on the wide
plains. WUd ducks and geese, swans, cranes and
flamingos, fly about in swarms, or float on the
shallow and unwholesome waters.
We only went out once with our guns, and
then, although, in fact, it was more to see the
game than for sport, I found my most extravagant
expectations surpassed. In about half a day,
which wo spent on the margin of a little river,
and a pond — I cannot call it a lake — wc saw

ROUND THE WORLD. 49
several flocks of geese and swans, at least twenty
different species of ducks and many diving-birds,
two kinds of flamingos, one of a soft rose colour,
which looked most beautiful in rising, and the
other of a darker red and black, but both of them
very shy. Innumerable plovers were scattered
about everywhere, and as nobody kiUs them,
showed themselves so tame and impudent, that
they kept flying and screaming around us, where-
ever we went, and very frequently frightened the
game away. Water, or swamp-snipes, a kind of
wood-cock, appeared in flocks of eighty and ninety,
as did also a large strand-snipe, a kind of water-
turkey, as large as a common turkey, but not eat
able. Besides these, there was a bird not unlike a
grouse, and a quantity of cranes, storks and guUs.
When we went home in the evening, the air
was perfectly alive with ducks and geese, flying in
regular triangles to their nightly resting-places. I
noticed a smaU quadruped, about the size of a large
cat, but raore heavy and clumsy, and belonging to
the badger family, sitting before tolerably large and
deep holes, and watching our movements. If we
passed quietlj= by. they would remain stationary,
but on the least motioi^ towards them, they disap
peared like lightning in their holes.
We shot one, just to have a fair look at the
creature, and found it a Uttle animal between the
badger and the hamster, something larger than the
VOL. I. D

50 FIVE years' journey
Araerican ground-hog. The skin of this little
animal, I was told, is tolerably good, and even the
meat is eatable, but nobody raolests thera. The
guachos have meat enough in their cattle, and
they do not require, in this warm climate, the fur,
and as the skins are not yet marketable, they have
no inducement to kiU these innocent creatures.
A pecuUar kind of otter is found in great
nurabers in the water-courses, but Rosas prohibited
their being hunted, as the skins, which are of some
value, were reserved as a prize for his soldiers.
The avestrus, or South American ostrich, is simi
larly reserved, and slaughter is punishable with a
heavy penalty.
I was very careful to leam as much as I
could of the character of the laws, and found here
an admirable opportunity, the overseer of this
plantation being a ver}- inteUigent German, who
could give me every information I wanted.
What he said at first of Rosas, sounded much
better than I had expected, and I found it con
firmed afterwards wherever I went. That Rosas
was a tyrant, nobody could weU deny. He ruled
the land with an iron hand : when he overthrew his
enemies, and gained the ascendancy, blood had
run in perfect sfreams ; but it wanted such a man
as Rosas to keep this unruly population, always
ready to use the deadly knife, in peace and order.
At the sarae time he protected foreigners and

ROUND THE WORLD. 51
foreign handicrafts, for he felt that it needed their
example, with his only half-civUized hordes, to
make the people tUl the ground, and become after
a while peaceful citizens.
The form of government has since been altered.
Rosas has become a fugitive in Europe, and
another president rules the Plata States. The new
government has one great advantage, in not having
commenced with a deluge of blood, or such
atrocities as Rosas perpetrated, to satiate his ven
geance and cow down his enemies. I hope it may
be also able to keep in force his beneficial laws,
which protect the lives and property of citizens
and foreigners, and in that case, the Argentine
repubUc bids fair to become one of the most
flourishing countries in South America.
The climate is salubrious. Sickness, it is
true, appears here and there, but it is never malig
nant, and the soU is — unlike the prairies of North
Araerica, where the best land is never found —
most exceUent, producing even with very little
culture, first rate crops.
The export produce consists as yet only of hides,
dried beef, taUow, wool, &c. Cattle and sheep,
indeed, furnish the only produce for market, but
what a quantity of this the Pampas raise, the
reader may imagine, from the Buenos Ayres prices,
namely, a fattened buUock of two years and a half,
ten shUlings; one three years old, eleven shil-
D 2

52 FIVE years' JOURNEY
lings ; a cow, frora ten to twelve shUlings ; a tame
milch-cow with calf, up to twenty shiUings.
This is the price by the single head, but buying a
herd together, as a new settler always does, cattle
cost, on an average, from three to four shiUings a
head. Buyer and seUer ride out, and drive up a
certain number of cattle. In counting at the
above-named price of from three to four shillings
a head, calves are always given in.
A good broken-in horse coraraonly costs
twenty, or twenty-two shiUings ; an unbroken
gelding, half that sum. Of staUions, you may
buy as many as you wish, at four shiUings a head,
and raares are even cheaper, but mares are never
ridden. The most serious expense are the sheep. What
are called the fine merino-sheep fetch as much as
six doUars, or twenty-four shiUings a head, but
sheep-farmers here consider this an exorbitant
charge, and the average price for good common
sheep is only one shiUing and sixpence ; and if you
buy the quite common kind, and in a lot, you pay
from one and a half to two pesos — a pesos is not
quite tluec-pence — the head. A dozen sheep-
.skins can be bought for six or eight shiUings, the
skins being dearer than the whole sheep. Hogs
arc the dearest animals in the country, and a good
hog brings from one to two pounds.
The price of land has risen during the last ten

ROUND THE WORLD, 53
years, but it is yet so cheap as not to require a
very large capital in the settler. Land is mea
sured by varas — a vara being something less than
a yard — and government seUs it in sections of one
legua and a half, (a legua being six thousand
varas), and each vara costs from four to seven
shiUings. But the closer the land is to a town or
city, the greater, of course, is its value.
Wheat, though I saw little of it raised in the
neighbourhood of Buenos Ayres, is cheap, as are
aU kinds of vegetables. They had just gathered,
in June, the second harvest of potatoes ; and there
is no doubt, a poor man can coraraence here with
a very small capital, and be pretty certain to secure,
by moderate industry, a good subsistence.
On the Monday morning we returned to town,
but I must not omit to mention a singular tree —
or rather the singular tree they have here, for I
saw no other — except sorae little stunted acacias.
It is caUed the orabu, and is indeed a splendid tree
for shade, and in form is the most fantastic I have
ever seen. This tree, when young, has a trunk
like other trees, running straight up from the
ground to a height of eight or ten feet, but when
old it becomes withered, and loses both root and
branches. This is, after aU, a very wise arrange
ment, for the wide-spreading branches of the wet and
spongy wood, could never be able to support them
selves, and indeed require to be sustained by props

54 FIVE years' journey
from the roots, which spring up to meet them,
but, unlike the banana of India, do not again faU
to the ground, but twine themselves round the stem,
and form caves and columns, reaching out from the
tree on every side. The wood is entirely useless,
and wiU not even bum, unless it has been pre
viously weU-dried by the sun, but the leaves are
a beautiful green, and the tree presents a fine
appearance. I had a very interesting interview, or rather
audience, at the governor's house, with Donna
Manuelita, the lovely daughter of the famous
guacho chief.
It was desirable to hear, from the governor
himself, how far he would interest himself in Ger
man immigration, and if he would really be wiUing
to grant any advantages to poor, but industrious
German farmers, who landed in his territories, or
only leave thera to themselves ; but Rosas never
received strangers, not even the consuls of the
different states, the American consul being the
only exception. Whatever they wished to say
must be brought before his daughter — the prime
minister of state — and to her I also had been
referred. But here another difficulty arose. On
leaving my ship, knowing what kind of road I had
to traverse, I had not encumbered myself with any
superfluous wardrobe, and a grey wooUen hunting-
shirt, with ray water-boots, and broad-brimmed

round the world. 55
hat, was the gayest attire I could assume for the
presence-chamber. Mr. Graham, with whora I
conferred on this subject, only laughed, and told
me that would not make the least difference.
Donna Manuelita, was too sensible and dis
creet a lady to care rauch about my appearance,
and he would undertake to introduce me to her
himself. One evening, therefore, to the astonishment of
the sentinel at the governor's palace, he presented
me to Donna Manuelita, who was attended by some
grandees of the Argentine court, and some lovely
young ladies, one of whom spoke English very
fluently, and another even a little German. In
spite of my dress, which was more suitable to the
Pampas than to a court, I passed a very pleasant
hour. The interior of the governor's house — so far as I
could observe it — was simple, but very tastefuUy fur
nished in the European style, though the lofty and
spacious rooms were suited to the warmer
cUraate.

56 FIVE years' journey

CHAPTER V.

THE SALADEROS.

I HEARD so much during my residence in
Buenos Ayres, of the saladeros, or butchering
places of this city, that I very naturaUy wished
to see them ; and one of my countrymen,
a young merchant, undertook to be my cicerone.
One fine morning, before breakfast — I wish we had
waited tiU after — we took horse and gaUoped to a
boca, or Uttle creek, about three mUes distant,
where these saladeros lay.
Having foUowed nearly aU the way the windings
of the Plata river, I had contracted a faint presenti
ment of what we should behold, from a perfect
mass of dead cattle and horses, which had been
washed ashore by the stream, and lay undisturbed
in the middle of the road, to be consumed by
birds of prey, or by time. At one point in parti
cular, where the high shore jutted out very steeply,
and only a smaU road, or path, had been left, lay

ROUND THE WORLD. 57
three horses together, over which we had to pass.
The stench was stifUng, but our horses did not
mind it a bit, and jumped over their faUen com
rades without the least hesitation.
After a ride of about fifteen minutes, we arrived
in sight of the boca. I thought at first the banks
of the little watercourse looked remarkably chalky,
but as we neared the place I was astonished
to see that the whole bank consisted of nothing
else but cattle-skulls, which were walled up, with
the horns sticking regularly out like spikes. But
we had no time to linger on these relics of mor
tality ; our road lay over the little bridge — a toll-
bridge, by the bye — and a few minutes afterwards
we found ourselves between the low buUdings
and sheds of the saladeros.
At the shed we first visited, they did not, as they
said, kUl that day, but were busy salting down
the hides, to get them ready for shipment. The
place was cleared up, and looked passably clean ;
but gaUoping only a few hundred yards further,
we heard the screams and yeUs of the drivers,
and as we neared the place, saw three horsemen
ride into a wide corral or enclosure, where a
couple of hundred head of cattle were collected,
iand who tried to separate a part of them from the
rest. One of the horsemen was a most conspicuous
figure — an old taU bony feUow, some fifty-six or
D 3

58 FIVE years' JOURNEY
sixty years old, with long-iron grey locks, tough and
sunburnt, and with a physiognomy as plain and
readable as heart could wish. If ever there existed
a bloody murderous vUlain in these States, where
people grow up in blood and raurder, this was the
man. Such have been the butchers sent by Rosas,
with his orders of death into the very houses of his
enemies, to cut their throats wherever they found
them, even should it be at table, with wives and
chUdren around them. This raan seemed to be
the leader of the rest, and was undoubtedly a
dexterous hand at this bloody trade.
A red poncho, with dark blue stripes, hung
round his shoulders, and he wore a cheripaw of the
same colour, with a red kerchief round his head,
and botas taken frora the feet of a horse, which
looked alraost as red as his other garments, show
ing how busy he had been that morning at his
handicraft. The lasso was fastened on the back of
his saddle — for what would a guacho be without a
lasso ? and in gaUoping along, the out-flying
poncho sometimes afforded a glimpse of a long
ivory-handled and blood-stained knife, stuck in a
belt behind his back, the handle towai'ds his right
hand. A shaggy grey beard waved about his
chin, whUe he was continuaUy chewing one of his
long moustachios, and simUar bunches of grey hair
hung down over his eyes, now glaring with a wUd
and burning fire. I could not remove my eye from

ROUND THE WORLD. 59
this old grey guacho, and his every movement
only rivetted it more.
Three of the corrals were close together — one.
very large one, into which the cattle were driven as
soon as they came in ; the second, about half as
large, designed to hold a part of them, so that the
drivers need not always run araong the crowd, and
frighten the animals more than necessary ; and the
third and smaUest, which would hold only forty or
fifty head, forming the kiUing place. In the second
were about thirty head standing apart frora the first
lot, and then three horsemen gaUoped in amongst
these, and drove thera with deafening cries into
the sraaUest corral. At first the poor animals
ran forward, seeing a place open for them, which
might lead to Uberty ; but as soon as they scented
the fresh blood, they pressed back, though too
late, their executioners being already upon them,
pushing some forward by the weight of their
horses, and frightening others by swinging their
arms round, as if they were about to throw the
dreaded lasso. BewUdered and half-deafened by
the unearthly screams of their pursuers, alarmed
by the scent of blood and the mass of strange
faces and shapes around the corral, they advanced
slowly, step by step, tiU only a few paces from the
bars, which were to close upon them, when some of
the poor creatures stood hesitating and trembling,
as if insensible of the yeUs and blows which urged
them onward.

60 FIVE years' JOURNEY
This incensed the terrible old guacho, who turned
his revenca, and struck the heavy iron ring down
on the hip-bones of the poor beUovring beasts, then
dropping his revenca, which swung on a thin cord
to his wrist, and plucking his knife from its scab
bard, ran it, not to injure the hide, with a dreadful
curse, between the hams of one unhappy animal.
The rascal would have run his knife, I believe,
with the same deUght into a human heart. But
this cruel act accomplished, the last of the herd
entered the corral ; the bars closed behind them,
and two minutes afterwards the slaughter begun.
The old guacho left the corral with his two
foUowers, and aU of them stationed themselves
outside, where they fastened a very strong raw
hide rope to the saddle-girts of their horses, and
then waited the signal for further proceedings.
The leathern rope was a long and verj' strong
lasso, turned with a running noose over a block,
which a man held in his hand. He was standing
on a kind of scaffold, right above the fence, and
opposite to where the cattle had entered the corral.
As soon as he received the word, the man with
the lasso swung it twice or three times round his
head, and threw the noose with unerring precision
round the horns of one of the animals. The three
horsemen saw the noose flying, and perfectly satis
fied that it had talien effect, they spurred forward,
and dragged the ensnared heifer down on her

ROUND THE WORLD. 6 1
knees and over her side ; and so before she could
gain her feet, or offer, in fact, the least resistance
brought her to the place where the lasso-throwei
stood, when the latter, bending down, passed his
long gUttering knife with indescribable dexteritj
through her neck, close behind the horns. Then
without turning a look on his victim, he took th(
noose from the horns, whUe the horsemen cara(
gaUoping back to slack the lasso ; and raising
himself up to his old posture, opened a kind o;
tray in the corral, and the whole frame on whicl
the heifer had been puUed down, glided away ou
with the bleeding animal upon it. It was thei
slid down a short railroad to an open shed, wheri
half-a-dozen bloody hands, with naked arms ane
legs, and long knives, were waiting to strip off th(
hide, and cut up the different parts of the body.
A strong push drove the frame back to its ole
place, and the next moment the noose was throwi
over another pair of horns, and the same perform
ance was begun anew. Backwards and forward:
ran the Uttle frame, the lasso whirled, and th(
poor animals beUowed more and raore dismally
betraying at each execution the greatest agitatioi
and dread. With every sign of terror in thei
eyes, and bristling hair, they tried to escape th(
inevitable noose, but in vain — another and anothe:
feU, and once even two were caught together, with
out making the least alteration in the arrangement!

62 FIVE years' JOURNEY
for slaughter ; and half an hour afterwards the
three horsemen trotted back to the largest corral,
to drive in another lot.
We now proceeded to view the slaughter-house
itself; but I could not linger here, and turned
away sickened. The place was certainly kept as
clean as possible, but it could not prevent my heart
and soul recoiling from such a scene. The blood
ran in perfect streams through wooden and open
gutters towards the boca, and several men were
stationed to keep these channels free from clots.
The shed was high and roomy ; and the raUroad
on which the slain animals were brought down,
passed through it from one end to the other.
Men were busy cutting open an heifer, whUe
others stripped the hide from the reeking carcase,
and the body itself disappeared under their sharp
knives and dexterous hands. And what a spectacle
were these men ! with their naked feet wading in
blood, and their whole persons covered with it;
whUe everywhere ai-ound were strewn the heads,
and feet, and tongues of the slaughtered animals.
In another corner men were loading waggons with
intestines ; and here I saw a whole pUe, thirty or
forty pieces, of unborn calves ; and boys, working
up to their shoulders in blood, were engaged skin
ning the largest, and dragging the rest by the hind
legs to sorae carts, which stood waiting to receive
them.

ROUND THE WORLD. 63
One feUow in a short red poncho — I shall never
forget him as long as I Uve — kept crawling ground
this sickening heap, tiU he seized one palpitating
mass by the hind leg, pulled from under his
poncho an old blood-stained bag, dropped his prize
into it, and gUding off without anybody observing
his proceedings, disappeared from the shed. From
this charnel heap he had picked out his breakfast !
My blood curdled at the thought. I could endure
such scenes no longer, and I hastened away. Our
horses were only a few yards distant, but they
stood as quiet as if they had been grazing on the
open plain — they were used to it.
In a few minutes we were at fuU speed on our
way horae, and reached town in time for breakfast ;
but it was three days before I could again touch a
piece of meat — I could not bear to look at it.

64 FIVE years' journey

CHAPTER VI.

to horse.

The few days I was yet to remain at Buenos
Ayres, I spent in walking about the town, seeing
and hearing as much as possible. In the after
noon I usuaUy rode out, partly to have a better
opportunity of seeing the neighbourhood, partly
to accustom myself to the saddle; for though I
could sit a horse very weU, I was not quite sure
how I could stand a ride, nearly aU the way at
fuU speed, of three hundred and nineteen leagues,
at one stretch.
Horses are vei-y cheap at Buenos Ayres, and
one can vci-y weU hire a horse for a doUar a
day ; but the report spread by captains of mer
chantmen, that horses are so cheap here, that
they aie perfectly satisfied at a Uvery-stable if you
only bring back the saddle, and wiU not ask a
higher price for the horse than the common hire
of it, is, I need hardly say, a fable. Sea-captains

round the world. 65
are, in fact, the only persons who can ever play
this trick, as the proprietors of livery-stables at
Buenos Ayres — nearly all of whom are English
men — know seamen as far as they can see thera,
and are aware how they treat horses, whenever
they get " on board " of one ; therefore they
take very good care to let them have such ani
mals only as they cannot spoU — the oldest and
worst in the stable — and consequently it is always
an accident if they do come back. For such
animals even a dealer in horseflesh has not the
heart to ask a price, and they let off the delin
quents, as the captains aver, if they only bring
back the saddle ; while the poor devil of a rider
who had hoped to enjoy an afternoon's quiet ride
thinks himself very well off, only to have beer
obUged to carry home his saddle for a distanc(
of five or six mUes on his own back, instead o
the horse's.
On the I7th of June, two boys came to m(
from the old correo, leading a horse, to take m(
to his house, whence he intended to make an earl;
start. At home, Mr. Davies, my landlord — or rathe
my landlady's husband, for he was in the woo
trade, and hardly ever at horae — had in the mean
time taken the greatest pains to persuade me no
to risk the trip, at least not to do it for the saki
of settling in California ; and I could never con

66 FIVE years' journey
vince him that I was not traveUing to, but through
CaUfornia. " Stay away from the accursed
country," he used to say ; " I have got a parti
cular friend there, hem," — he put in the hera some
times in the droUest way imaginable — " and he
knows aU about it, hera." He then told me some
very dreadfiil tales about the mines, the fevers
there, the murders and robberies, and a hundred
other pleasant incidents, which might encourage
a traveUer, and finished this glowing account of
the gold country nearly always with the words :
"And to get to this vwetched country as quick
as possible, hem 1 you want to have your throat
cut first frora ear to ear, hem ? and then be stuck
up in the snow, arid let the temporales have a blow
at you, hem ?"
Poor Mr. Davies, aU his reasonings were in
vain ; and as I shook hands with him at parting,
he hoped to see an account in the papers that
the Pampas had not eaten me, at least without
pepper and salt.
Reaching the house of the old correo, I was
rather astonished to see the old feUow, whora I
had expected to find packing and saddUng his
horses, sitting very quietly and unconcerned in a
chair, sucking his mat^ ; whUe the whole room was
strewn over with packets, packs, and blankets.
His old lady was squatting in a corner, blowing
a rather sickly coal-fire, to keep the water boUing

round the world. 67
for that eternal beverage ; and his son leant back
on a mattress, which seemed to serve at once
as a sofa and bed, and played some Spanish
dances, with a reaUy skUful hand, on the guitar.
As I entered the room, the lady rose and
offered me a small gourd, with a thin metal
tube sticking in it, and containing fluid boUing
hot. I knew from the description given to me
by some friends, that this was the faraous raatd,
and put the tube, without grumbling, between
my lips ; but bless ray soul, how quickly I drew
it out again! I believe it was red-hot, and the
skin of my lips stuck to the pipe ; but the lady
smUed, and the old correo laughed outright,
for they thought me a great greenhorn. Not
able to drink their mat^ ! how then could I stand
a ride through the Pampas ?
Seeing the bad impression I had made, I put
the tube once more into my mouth, like a good
boy, and at it I went. The tears rose in my
eyes, and I considered myself a martyr in a sraall
way, but I did not dare to wink any more.
The mate is the most favourite drink in the
Argentine republic, and perhaps the reader raay
be well satisfied to hear a few words about it,
if he has not to drink it. Mate itself is princi
paUy raised in the BrazUs and Paraguay, and is
gathered from a tree. It looks like a very fine
green powder, with little pieces of stalk in it.

68 FIVE years' journey
This stuff is put in a smaU gourd about as large
as an apple, which is fiUed up with boUing water.
But since the fine dust-like powder, made into tea,
would be too disagreeable to drink, a tube or bom-
bUla, as it is caUed, with a little hoUow and pierced
baU at one end, is introduced into the gourd, and
the ball sinking into the mat^, holds back the
powder, and only the liquid is sucked through.
But the difiiculty with a stranger Ues in the
metal, which imraediately imbibes the heat of
the water, and burns the Ups of those who are
not used to scorching. The natives draw away
at this tube continuaUy ; but at first it is to a
stranger not only a painful, but even a disgusting
act, for neither gourd nor bombiUa are ever
changed, and go from mouth to mouth through
the whole company. Nor can you venture to
decline the compUment — for such it is deemed —
or you would offend the whole company, and
particularly the host and hostess. I knew my
fate from the first, and sat there sucking the
sweet burning stuff, with a resignation worthy of
a better cause.
WhUe we were di-inking, a couple of young
fellows came in, and began to carry out the
packs that strewed the floor. The correo fol
lowed soon after, leaving me alone with the old
lady and the guitar player. The old lady imme
diately made an attack on the Uttle Spanish I

ROUND THE WORLD. 69
knew, and wanted to learn all about my faraUy
and home, circumstances and interests. But I
was very reserved, and at last she had to give
up the inquest in despair, though not till her
husband came suddenly back into the room,
and buckUng on his large spurs, and picking
up a short-handled, long and strong whip, called
to horse. In a few minutes he was ready, and
took a short but kind leave of his wife, whUe
the young feUow laid down his guitar to shake
hands with hira, and we saUied forth.
The horses were outside — four fine, strong,
lively animals — one loaded with all the packs
and packets I had seen in the room, another
with a large portmanteau, and the remaining two
destined to carry ourselves. My saddle-bags
were quickly fastened, my blanket and poncho
tied behind, and the next minute found us trot
ting slowly through the crowded streets — for
people are not aUowed to gaUop in town — tiU
we reached the outskirts, when, clapping spurs
to his horse, the old feUow gave the whip to the
pack-horse, which a young guacho — our posti-
Uon, who rode himself the horse with the port
manteau—held by a Une, nodded to me, and away
we went at a speed which I thought at that time
would inevitably knock up the pack-horse in a
quarter of an hour. But Uttle did I know of
South American horses !

70 FIVE years' JOURNEY
My old correo was a fine specimen of a guacho,
though dressed more in the European style. He
wore a black broad-brimraed hat, like ray own,
but of a coarser and raore durable stuff, a large
dark-blue poncho, lined with red, and instead of
being simply slit open in the middle, it was
furnished with a cloak-like cape and button. His
other garments consisted of a tight pair of un
mentionables, and long tan-coloured riding-boots,
to which were buckled the heavy iron spurs.
Round his neck he wore a red kerchief, and he
grasped in his hand the long whip already men
tioned, provided, as it seemed, exclusively for the
benefit of the pack-horse.
The spurs of the guachos hang down under
their heels, so that they can hardly walk with
them, and have to step always on tiptoe. On
foot, indeed, these _ guachos are very inferior
beings, reminding one of a seal ashore ; and
the spurs with their holding-wheels, three and
four inches in diameter, rattle and jingle be
hind them incessantly ; but let them touch the
back of theii- hoi-ses, and they are changed as
by a magic rod. At first stooping over and
walking as if between eggs, the guacho suddenly
draws himself up, the downcast look becomes
confident, even haughty, and once in the saddle,
on the back of his prancing steed, horse and
rider seem one being, made of fire and life. After

ROUND THE WORLD. 71
a short time amongst them, I found also the ad
vantage of draggling the spurs. The guacho, of
course, never thinks of cleaning or currying his
horse, and consequently the animal, particularly
in wet weather, is perfectly encrusted with mud,
which a common European spur would never
pierce. The spurs therefore must have long
and sharp points, and as these, if stuck out
straight behind, could not but be very inconvenient
and even dangerous to the rider, when riding a
wUd and unbroken horse, they are fastened in
such a way that he may press his heels as closely
as he pleases to the belly of the rearing animal,
without using the spur, which, however, a sUgh
turn of the foot wUl bring into immediate ope
ration. My attention was soon called to the surround
ing country, and to the wild figures we raet on the
road, and who gaUoped madly past, their ponchos
and kerchiefs streaming behind. The correo knew
them aU, having for more than forty years traversed
the same route, and, as we proceeded, there was not
a hut from which he had not a friendly word. Be
ing in the great thoroughfare to the city, the main
entrance from the interior, we passed numbers of
mules and waggons, bringing produce to town.
And the landscape itself, with the singular aloe
and cactus hedges, the low houses, the garden
waUs of sheep's-heads, the heavy carts drawn by

72 FIVE years' JOURNEY
lazy oxen, and with a lazier driver sitting on the
shaft, pricking the patient animals with a short-
pointed stick ; the expansive plain, with its widely-
ranging sweUings of low undulating land, and
numerous herds, scattered over the green turf,
formed altogether a scene of extraordinary in
terest. But the correo had no eye for the scenery, and
my sprightly horse required no little attention ; so
away we gaUoped, our horses a Uttle scared some
times by the buzzard and half-wUd dogs, feasting
on some mouldering carcase of horse or heifer,
which we scented at a distance on the poisoned
air, and from which they were startled by our ap
proach. Then the road becomes more open ; the
sharp whip descends with a smack on the hips of
the poor pack-horse, the postUion strikes with his
revenca, and away we go at fuU speed over the
plain.

ROUND THE WORLD. 73

CHAPTER VII.
a ride across the pampas.
OuR-first station was Al Puente de Marquez, a
high-sounding name, appropriated by a miserable
hut, at which we changed horses, and took some
dinner — a dish of meat and another of pumpkin,
mate being of course the vanguard of the whole.
I knew immediately that my bUstered lips would
not be healed till I reached Mendoza.
This was the first guacho hut I had entered, and
though I thought at the time that it was a wretched
hovel, the walls being of mud, and covered with
reeds, I found afterwards that it deserved to be
considered a palace, furnished even with taste
and luxury. In fact, it contained a table, and
several chairs, with seats made of stretched hide,
and we were even suppUed with a table-cloth,
though it was rather the worse for several weeks'
use, and forks— every one of course is expected to
carry his own knife. These were articles I then

74 FIVE years' journey
thought by no means superfluous. At dinner we
all ate the meat out of one large dish, standing in
the middle of the table. Several chUdren dined
with us, and one who sat next me, a rosy-faced,
dark-eyed friendly little feUow — with long sUken
fringes to his eyes, and beautiful curly brown hair,
would really have interested me, if he had not
kept his long spoon so active, and so very close
under his nose.
Dinner did not last long. Fresh horses were
brought, and in an incredibly short time, packed
and saddled, and away we went towards 4he next
station, where we intended to stop aU night.
The correo is the regular and only post that
goes from Buenos Ayres to the interior, and keeps
up tolerably regular communication with ChiU, San
Jago, and Valparaiso. The correo from San Jago
brings the maU across the CordiUeras, in summer
at stated tinies, and in winter whenever the snow
perraits ; and at Mendoza he raeets the correo from
Buenos Ayres, with whom he exchanges maUs.
The post stai-ts every month fi-om Buenos Ayres,
and two correos proceed with it alternately.
The house at which we were to pass the night,
was six leagues farther on, and was caUed the Cafiada
de Escobar. It was as dirty as the previous one,
the denizens were as squaUd, and the mat^-tubes
as hot. At the same tirae the hut lay duU and
lonesome in the wide and open plain, no field, no

ROUND THE WORLD. 75
garden at hand, not even an enclosure for horses or
cattle, only a few posts, the rough trunks of some
wUlow-trees, were driven into the ground round the
hovel, and encircled a space of about twenty paces
in diameter.
I can stand a great deal of discomfort, and
never complain of a hard bed or a frugal meal, but
the abominable fUth which I met everywhere here,
the dirty spoons, and forks and dishes, and, above
aU, the slatternly habits and squalor of the women,
spoUed my appetite at the outset of my journey.
I had not yet got used to it — and I hoped that I
never should — but I did not then know the
worst. The next morning I was, however, compensated
for aU my sufferings, real and imaginary. The
air was fresh and bracing; the clear blue sky
stretched pleasantly over the verdant plain, and the
sight of peaceful herds, grazing everywhere on the
soft and luxuriant turf, made me forget aU the
miseries of the hut — fleas included. Our horses
were soon ready, and away we went, scarapering
over the plain, whUe on every side we beheld
troops of wUd horses, playing and chasing each
other in the sunny Ught, and continuaUy carae on
solitary little ponds, teeming with wUd ducks and
surrounded by plovers, storks and cranes.
High overhead flew long chains of wUd geese
and swans, and on the ground large and comfort-

76 FIVE years' JOURNEY
able-looking water-turkeys stmtted about, or broke
through the low reeds on the margin of the ponds,
and cackled to each other incessantly. Little
screech-owls sat before their holes, easUy distin
guished by the heap of yeUow earth thrown up around.
On the rich clover and grass reposed herds of weU-
fed cattle, or young lambs frisked round their bleat
ing mothers ; and wild steeds neighing aloud, were
answered by our panting horses, as they threw back
their manes, and snuffed the pure and balmy air.
That night I was as hungry as a wolf, having
had nothing to eat for four-and-twenty hours, but
my landlady did not seem any advance on her pre
cursors. The meat was served up in an old
wooden bowl, which had not seen warm water or
a dish-cloth for at least a fortnight. I thought
to have an aUeviation of the fare in one thing, and
was resolved to make some honest green tea, instead
of the stuff they caU mate. BoiUng water being
procured, tea was soon made, and I was just pre
paring to enjoy it in the usual and natural way,
when, bless me ! such an uproar arose in the hut :
" He's going to drink it," cried the hostess, slapping
her hands together in astonishment. Of course I
was, but up started the old man — and how the
knave grinned as he did so ! — and presented rae
with a bombiUa — the same that the old hag had
used five minutes before for sucking her mat^ —
and I actuaUy had to take my tea through this

ROUND THE WORLD. 77
horrible blow-pipe, for every time I tried to get
rid of it, and to drink my tea in a Christian-like
manner, I raised such a storm of derision, that at
last I gave up the point in despair.
At this place I first saw an Argentine corn-crib,
or barn, and a most singular concern it was. Their
barns, like everything else, are made of raw hide.
An ox is stripped of its hide in such a way as to
split only the back, leaving every other part of the
hide entire ; the feet are then sown up, and after
the natural apertures have all been closedj the
whole is swung on four posts, about seven feet
high, when it is fiUed with wheat, and the slit
above covered by another piece of raw hide, com
pleting the crib.
The third day we reached the small town or village
of Arrecifes, on a creek of the same name. Here I
found an American, in the service of the repubUc,
who had married a young native lady and lived
very comfortable, as he said, in the midst of a
population entirely Spanish. We made but a
short halt at Arrecifes — just long enough to change
horses, and give the correo a chance of getting
a supply of aqua-ardiente for his drinking horns,
of which he had a couple swinging across his
saddle ; but I passed a very pleasant half-hour at
the house of the American, and felt very sorry to
leave him so soon.
In our way onward I saw how cruelly the

78 FIVE years' JOURNEY
Spaniards treat their horses. The stage was a
distance of eight leagues, and we accomplished it
at fuU speed ; whUe the correo, whenever the poor
broken-down pack-horse wanted only to blow a
bit, carae mercilessly down upon it with his long
whip, though I, for my part, would have wUlingly
given the horses rest. But what could I do ? I
had to stick to the correo, and could not even spare
my own animal.
On we went. Hardly were we in the saddle
when the correo cries " GaUop 1" cuts the pack-
horse over the hips with his long whip, and away
we fly across the Pampas. Hold the bridle tight
in your hand, dear reader, and look well for your
path. Badgers and owls have their holes here at every
step, and if you do not help your horse a Uttle with
your eyes, you may both kiss the ground. The
correo is already a long way in front, you have
spared your animal too much. Away with you and
take care of the reedy grass ahead ; for it covers
a swamp. A Uttle more to the left the ground is
harder, but it is fuU of half-concealed holes, and
yet rpust be passed in haste ; for the night is fast
coming on, and your guide will soon be beyond
reach, whUe path and road no longer exist.
As I came up, the old con-eo sat his horse stiff
and motionless ; whUe his long and heavy poncho,
streaming out with every movement, flapped against
his shouldeis ; and only his right arm, as it struck

ROUND THE WORLD. 79
out with the relentless whip, showed that he had
power to move. " On, on !" this was his only
thought. The steed that bore him had no hold
on his sympathies : it was only a horse ; and if it
carried its load to the door of the next station, it
might lie down and die for all he cared.
1 rode myself one of the poorest horses I had
yet seen in the Pampas : it stumbled at every other
step, and I was continually wondering why we did
not both come down together. At last we came to a
low soft spot, where the grass was very luxuriant ;
but the soU, as if elastic, gave way at every tread.
My poor horse bore up a good while, till, just as
we were coming on drier ground, it came right
down on its nose, and pitched me overhead. I
was up in a second, and replacing the saddle
bags, the strap of which had been broken by the
fall, got in the saddle again, and followed the old
correo and postilion, who, I reaUy believe, had not
even looked round after me, to see if I was coming.
But they were in the right : I was old enough to
take care of myself; and setting spurs to my horse,
I soon recovered my distance.
It was now getting dark, and we had yet a Jong
way to go. The appearance of the plain began to
be very peculiar. As night set in, a damp mist
rose from the low ground, to a height of from two
to three feet, changing the campo into what seemed
a mUk-white, shoreless lake, to which the last rays

80 FIVE years' JOURNEY
of the sun, reflected by the clouds above, imparted
at intervals a soft rosy radiance.
I had now lost sight of the correo, in fact I
had forgotten aU about him, and left my horse to
choose his own road, just as though I were not
traversing a wide and pathless plain, infested by
wUd tribes, and where, if I lost my leader, I might
wander for hundreds and hundreds of mUes with
out regaining the track, and ignorant of the dangers
that awaited me. But the scene around was far
too interesting to be neglected ; and stUl leaving
the bridle to my horse, I hardly knew, or cared
whither we went, if I could continue to gaze on
this strange and beautiful sight.
The most extraordinary objects in this floating
sea of mist were the grazing herds, the upper part
of their bodies alone being Aisible ; and the fog
gathering in large fleecy masses, began to assume
fantastic shapes, such as bergs and figures, which
seemed to float on the shining surface of the lake,
whUe lofty dangerous-looking cliffs and glaciers
hung above.
It seemed that I was always gaUoping down
the slope of a steep hiU, and that the mist would
close the next minute over my head, and yet I had
not left the open plain, and the swai-d lay smooth
before me. But as night closed in, the mist rose
highei- and higher, and finally became so thick,
that 1 could hardly see the ground for ten or twelve

HOUND THE WORLD. 81
yards on either side. But ray horse had in the
raeantime done his best; right ahead I could
hear plainly the hoofs of ray companions on some
hard ground; and in a few minutes I reached a
hard-beaten path, and we all arrived together at
the hut where we intended to pass the night.
Next morning we started very early — the sun
had not even risen above the horizon, and the
correo announced as the reason, that we had a
long day's march before us. " To-morrow," he
added, " we shaU come in the range of los Indios —
amigo." Los Indios — the long talked-of savages,
we were already close to their war-path, and
who could say what the two next days might
not bring forth. But what matter ? Should
they come in a smaU party, we should have to
fight ; and if they came in a large one, we could
but run.
Morning is for the animals of the Pampas the
tirae of repose. Even the hawks and buzzards
stand quietly on some low bush or mound, and
pay no heed to the little singing-birds flying
around ; only long-legged storks cackle and chatter,
as they walk slowly in couples or smaU parties
on the flat and dry ridges of the ponds. All the
little ground-holes are empty ; whatever lives down
there, does not show its face in the first hours
of morning. The herds of cattle lie chewing
their cuds on the rich clover of the plains, and

82 FIVE years' journey
even the horses stand di-owsUy about, nodding in
the cool breeze that rises with the sun.
How different the scene, when the sun is sink
ing in the west, and the low bushes of the Pampas
throw their long shadows over the grass ! Troops
of horses and cattle are up and feeding, their
young ones playing about thera, as they move
through the plains, only picking the best and
sweetest pasture in this rich pantry of the Lord.
They tramp and neigh in herds over the green
sward, and the soft lowing of the cows mingles
with the shrUl cry of the hawk, soaring on high,
and seeming to have nothing in common with the
tribes below.
Hei ! how the horses dart with their riders
through the plain, the rattling hoofs striking sand
and turf far out behind, whUe they answer the
weU-known sounds of the steeds running wUd
over the expanse ! Even the caves and ground-
holes become aUve, though half-an-hour before
they seemed empty. How cosUy the little bustard
sits at his door, keeping his eye on you as you
approach ! Yonder is another one — there a
third, fourth, fifth and sixth. To the right, just
under the waving little shrub, a whole famUy are
squatted, delighting in the gambols of the youngest,
which has come out this night for the first time,
and is quite astounded by all the wonders of the
mighty world.

round the world. 83
Owls are flying about, and far behind an ewe,
with its new-born lamb, anxiously trying the distant
flock, bleats and caUs to the poor little thing which
can yet hardly keep its feet, and which she cannot
leave behind. Already a powerful vulture, which has
been circling about the place for some time, is
watching the lamb and the mother, to find her
one minute only off her guard, and tired of wait
ing, darts down at last for his prey. But the
week timid ewe has suddenly changed her nature,
and with bended head and sparkling eye, has be
come the assailant, but only advances a few steps,
knowing fiiU well that the safety of her young one
depends on her presence. The vulture is taken
aback by the unlooked-for courage of the dam,
and too cowardly to attack, but too greedy to give
up, foUows at a little distance, keeping his large
round eyes on the tottering lamb, while the poor
ewe, now pushing and now coaxing, strives to get
it quicker along, out of the reach of the dreaded
enemy. An armadillo glides through the waving grass,
and the young postiUon raises himself high in his
saddle to watch its course, and see if the bended
halms wiU not again betray its presence.
And what is lying there in a pool of water,
where a smaU sinking in the ground stayed the
water from the last rain ? It is a dying cow, the
green glassy eye growing bUnd as it stares on the

84 FIVE years' journey
fuU and luxurious clover that presses softly against
her side, in a few days to be infected by her
decaying carcass, and trampled under foot by beasts
of prey. And here, and everywhere, lie the
skeletons of others, some yet covered with the
old dry hide, others grown over with fresher and
raore luxuriant clover.
Then comes our old friend the stork. How
watchful and motionless does he now stand in the
smaU pond, peering into the clear water. He
never even looks up at the screaming flight of
parrots, which shoot with rapid wing over the
plain to seek their nightly resting-place, nor the
large troop of fiery-red flamingos, that have taken
possession of a neighbouring pond. Only one angry
look does he throw over at a large flock of restless,
cackling ducks, which dart down in wUd and noisy
flight into the pond, ruffling the water where it
stands. Then again it is watchful as before, star
ing into the dark and shining tide, to see what
supper it wiU furnish.
On — on we go. The sun has sunk long ago
behind the CordiUeras, and night throws her veil
over the slumbering earth.
That night we were camped in a smaU hovel,
made of twigs stuck in tlie ground, and bent
touether above. The whole furniture of the house
consisted of two horse-skulls for chairs, and a
couple of ox-hides thrown carelessly on the

ROUND THE WORLD. 85
ground. In the middle "of the hut was a fire of
bones and cow-dung, and from this rose a perfect
steam of stench. Here some meat was prepared
for our supper, and a most deUcious flavour it had,
broUed, without even a stick between, on that fire.
But aU is nothing when you are used to it, and
after an old guacho had gnawed one of the bones
awhUe, he handed it to me, and I picked it clean.
I had eaten hardly anything for twenty- four
hours, and having travelled about eighty-four mUes,
was above trifles.
On the 21st, we reached the province of Santa-
Fe, and In crossing the little river Arroyo de Pavon,
were in the direct track of the feared Indians.
Five or six houses were standing together on the
bank of the creek, and here we heard the first
account of the Indians worth noticing. They had
shown themselves in the neighbourhood in troops
of fifty or sixty ; aU weU armed, and raost ex-
ceUently mounted, sometimes even with led horses.
They had also had a skirmish with the soldiers,
attacked several huts in the campo, and kiUed the
inhabitants. The men here spoke of nothing but los
Indios, and had even sent their young women
away to sheltered towns in the interior, whUe the
men were ready to defend their homes or fly,
as the horde should be smaU or great. Flying
herds, with which the natives came galloping up.

86 FIVE years' journey
and startled game, were the most certain signs of
the approach of the enemy ; and flight towards
the north — where the Cordoba range had hitherto
proved a barrier against these wild tribes — was
thought the surest, and in fact the only way to
escape. The Arroyo de Pavon seemed also in many
respects a boundary of the country. From this
point, the guachos no longer took the paper
money of Buenos Ayres. Paper doUars or pesos,
worth threepence a-plece, and even the scenerie,
changed in value. Hitherto the land had been
one wide, uninterrupted beautiful green plain,
covered with juicy clover, and fresh luxuriant
grass, upon which the weU-fed cattle grazed in
innumerable herds and flocks ; but from here, as
if cut off by the bank of the river, the country
took a more wintry aspect : the grass disappeared,
and gave way to a grey furze, which throwing
itself in broken masses like a veU over the sward,
left here and there indeed beautiful green spots free,
but only gathered raore strength the farther we
advanced into the Interior, tUl it swaUowed up the
green altogether.
We rode that night tiU nearly ten o'clock, several
hours after it had become perfectly dark, in order
to co\'er as much of this country as wc could, for
the correo was, in fact, far from being at his ease ;
and e\ery hut we passed, he inquired for news of

ROUND THE WORLD. 87
the red raen. We crossed that night a small
river with very muddy banks, where I nearly sank
with my horse in the soft mud ; and when at last
we reached the hut where we were to lodge, it was
too late to procure a bit to eat, although we had
not broken our fast the whole day. But next
raorning we had time enough to eat and rest ; a
very heavy mist lay on the plain, and the correo
and the inmates of the hut had a long talk to
gether about the danger of starting in such a fog
and being run upon by the Indians, who like to
sneak about at such a time. Besides this, we had
hardly any path to foUow, and the old fellow was
afraid of losing himself.
At last, a light air sprang up, and the mist,
breaking into loose, roUing masses, drifted off
towards the north, affording us once raore a full
view of the country. The correo was on the watch,
and scanning the southern horizon, looked narrowly
at the various herds of cattle, to mark if they
showed any symptom of fear. In this reconnais
sance I assisted him, having with rae a raost excel
lent pocket-telescope, raade by one of our best
opticians. Everything seemed in perfect order,
and the horses were brought out and quickly
made ready to start.
As we proceeded, we saw but few cattle, the
guachos having driven their herds as far as they
could out of reach of the Indians. The plain,

88 FIVE years' JOURNEY
however, abounded with deer. Frequently we
started an old buck from a clump of furze, and the
beautiful high-crested animals, looking, with their
long white taUs, exactly Uke the stags of Virginia,
flew off with long bounds over the wide flat, never
once stopping tiU they got out of hearing of the
horses. I was at first astonished to find them so
wild, the guachos having no guns ; but in truth the
deer perhaps dreaded more their lassos and bolas
and fleet horses, which rarely fail of insuring sport.
GaUoping thus for a couple of hours, I forgot aU
about the Indians ; but all at once I saw ahead of us,
and right in our path, about half-a-mUe distant,
a party of the raost singular-looking beings I had
ever beheld, coming over the rise of a low, undu
lating sweU of the land. That they were not men,
I saw at a glance ; but it was equaUy clear that
they were not quadrupeds ; and yet, as I looked
again they seemed as if they were reaUy long-legged
naked men, running with a load upon their backs
over the plains. The correo smiled as he saw how
naiTowly I watched these strange objects, and told
me they were ostriches.
Ostriches ! — the first I had ever beheld in a wild
state, — ostriches which chased one another over
the witle Pampas, striking the air with their short,
awkward wings, and throwing their long naked
legs to the right and left as If they were sticks
hanging under their belly. But their demeanour

ROUND THE WORLD. 89
quickly changed as soon as they heard the clatter
of our horses' hoofs, and in an instant they drew
up and stood as if cut out of stone, sp stiU and
motionless. Then they flew over the plains as if
carried by the pampero, and soon disappeared.
Nor is it easy to overtake thera when they once
take flight ; and the guacho, when this is his object,
has to corae upon them unawares, and can only
take them after a long and tedious chase.
I ought to say a few words about the lasso, at
least about the bolas, for I suspect my English
reader has heard the lasso described often enough.
The bolas are smaU stones from three to four
inches in diameter, and each is sewn tightly up In
a piece of raw hide, to which is fastened a long strip
of the same material, about four or five feet long,
and all these three short ropes are tied together
at the end. When the bolas is to be thrown, one
is taken in the right hand, and the others being
swung in a wide circle round the head to give
them power and weight, the bolas is impeUed for
ward, very much like the lasso, by a peculiar turn,
of the wrist, so that when released by the hand, the
three bolas or balls spread out to a triangle, and
fly whirling through the air till one of them finds,
in the object aimed at, resistance, and is stopped,
when the other two, striking round with the same
force, entangle and throw down, and sometimes
even kiU the destined victim, whether man or beast.

90 FIVE years' JOURNEY
I have seen horses brought down by these bolas as
if they had been stmck by lightning, and the force
with which they corae is sufficient to break a horse
or bull's leg.
The bolas forra, with a lance fourteen feet in
length, the principal weapons of the Indians ; and
they possess great dexterity in using thera, as well
as the lance, which they carrj', gaUoping up to the
enemy, in an up-and-down swinging raotion, tUl they
strike at the raark. It is raade out of a kind of
bamboo or cane, and is furnished with an iron point.
The correo told me It was aU but Impossible to
avert a blow from such a lance, on account of the
swinging of the point ; and the Pampas themselves
have such skill in the use of this weapon, that pass
ing by at full speed, they wiU strike a doUar with
out ever missing.
The guachos are, in all these exercises, hardly
inferior to the aborigines. Half-Indians themselves,
they throw lassos and bolas with the same dexterity ;
and it is a splendid sight to see those wUd, savage
men on their panting steeds, their ponchos stream
ing out behind, the wide noose of the lasso whirUng
round their heads, and man and horse as if one
being, foUowing, with maddening speed, the dash
ing, flying herds, whUe the birds of prey circle
overhead ; the green plain, the blue sky, the pic
turesque groups of pursuers and pursued, changing
with c\'ery minute ; aU this leaves an Impression

ROUND THE WORLD. 91
on the raind of the spectator which It would be
difficult to describe and impossible to forget. Such
a spectacle to be properly comprehended must be
seen, felt : your blood must tingle in your veins,
your own steed have danced under you with in
flated nostrUs and uttering wUd neighs, and then it
mav be conceived and understood.
On the 23rd we reached the little town of
Cruza Alta, and here the correo stopped nearly
an hour, to get all the information he could about
the Indians. The Uttle place was full of women,
who had fled hither, from a fear of being carried
off by those wUd sons of the Pampas, a feat
these modern Romans most wlUIngly and not
unfrequently, if they get a chance, accomplish.
Of course the raost dreadful stories were current
about the savages, and my guide collected a perfect
heap of murders, to spread dismay far and wide
on our journey.
The next day we were gaUoping along our path,
keeping at the same time a sharp eye towards
the south, when we suddenly perceived right
before us, first a large cloud of dust, and then
discerned some black objects in the midst of it.
We aU stopped at the same moment, and the
postilion groaned " los Indios ;" but my tele
scope told me that it was nothing but a large
vehicle, drawn by horses, and coming on at a
rattling pace. The moving mass, as it drew

92 FIVE years' JOURNEY •
nearer, proved to be a large clumsy omnibus,
not drawn as such carriages are in our country,
but by six foaming horses, each with the wUd
figure of a guacho on its back, and fastened
to the shaft by a ring in the strong hide belt
or surcingle, which Is bound round the raiddle of
the horse.
When we came near, the vehicle stopped, and
a parley commenced between the guachos and
the correo about the Indians. At the same time
a window was opened, disclosing the yeUow and
wrinkled features of an old gentleman within,
having a pair of green spectacles on his nose,
and who anxiously inquired for the latest murders.
Five or six other faces appeared at the different
sashes, belonging to as many boys — the old gen
tleman's feUow-traveUers, and I found to my
satisfaction that one of the boys could speak
EngUsh. His parents Uved at Valparaiso, and
he was going with his tutor or professor to
Buenos Ayres. But he would answer no ques
tions, only wanting to hear about the Indians, aU
they had done, and aU they were likely to do,
and listened with pale features to the dreadful
stories whieb the old rascal of a coiTCO freely
communicated to his teacher. To console him, I
told him there was not one word of truth in
these horrors, as we had seen no Indians, and I
did not beUeve there was one within two hundred

ROUND THE WORLD. 93
mUes of us. But the Cordilleras ! How was it
with them ? The most interesting point for rae
lay there. Should I be able to cross thera ?
The boy answered : " Yes, In suraraer time ; but
now they are snow-locked." Snow-locked ? bah !
I began to expect there was as rauch foundation
for this conjecture as for the stories about the
Indians. Indians there certainly were soraewhere,
but the plains were wide, and It was very unlikely
that we should meet them.
It was an extremely disagreeable sight as we
proceeded, to meet such a quantity of sraall wooden
crosses. We saw every day two or three, often
even more, of these memorials, and they aU marked
the spot where some poor traveller had been mur
dered, not by the savage Indians alone, but by
the hardly less treacherous guachos. These are
indeed a great deal too ready with their long,
sharp knives, and revenge or cupidity too often
prompts their wiUing hand.
On the 26th, we saw the first blue mountain
ridges, a good way off towards the north. These
were the Cordoba range, and our direction lay
to the western point of it. That night we stopped
in a viUage, caUed after the little river close by,
Rio Guarto. Here we raet another correo, who
carae from Mendoza, and was going to Cordoba.
He knew nothing about tl^ CordiUeras, but a great
deal about the Indians ; and, if he spoke truth.

94 FIVE years' journey
they had chased him to the very entrance of the
last little town he had passed. But there had
been only ten or twelve of the " brown devils," as
he called them, and twelve of them should not
chase us, though it was a different case with him,
as he carried no fire-arms.
The inhabitants of the Pampas, as weU as those
of the larger towns in South America, are very
fond of cock-fighting. They like aU amusements
which are attended with bloodshed, and the correo
we had met carried with him four very large and
strong-looking fighting-cocks. In different baskets,
fastened to the pack-horse, which as we aU slept
in one large room, were deposited in the four
different comers of our chamber, and the cocks
were then taken out, and fastened by one leg
to some stakes driven in the ground, and intended
to support a table-board or a bench.
I was engaged writing letters tUl very late, when
I threw myself down on my blanket, with the
saddle for ray pIUow, but I could only have slept
about half-an-hour ere I was suddenly roused by
a raost dreadful noise, sounding like a trumpet
In my very ear. I jumped up as if I had been
shot. Before I could coUect my senses, the same
noise burst frora another corner of the roora, and
presently frora two corners at once. It was the
cocks crowing, and sure enough they kept at it.
Day v?as breaking, though I could yet see no

ROUND THE WORLD. 95
gleam of Ught on the dark sky; and though I
poked at the fowl nearest to me, to keep it at
least quiet, it was without effect, and the other
three crowed aU the tirae ; so we had it for the
remainder of the night, and a pleasant night it was.
I had been told there was a countryman of mine
living at this place, and not being able to find him
late on the evening before, I went for hira early this
morning. He was a funny little feUow — by trade
a stonemason; but on coming out here to the
Pampas, and finding no stones, he had become a
hat-maker, taken of course a wife, and was raising
a famUy of six or seven children. At this time
Rio Guarto was, on account of the Indians, garri
soned with troops, and a number of fugitives had
taken refuge within its waUs ; and the Uttle fellow
thought an eating-house would agree very well with
his business. Many preparations not being neces
sary, he had set up shop, got himself half-a-dozen
plates, two or three bottles of aqua-ardiente, and
some forks, all placed behind a smaU bar in his
mud- walled parlour, and the hotel was furnished.
As I entered his roora, six or seven soldiers were
standing about the bar taking their breakfast — a
piece of pudding, a sausage, and, a luxury here, a
slice of bread ; and a bowl of coffee, with red
pepper and salt, were standing on the table, and
each raan had a glass of aqua-ardiente before
him.

96 FIVE years' journey
It is, indeed, a very easy matter to keep a
boarding-house in the Pampas ; and as they seem
never to wash plates or dishes, the landlady can
do very comfortably all the work, which consists
merely of putting a kettle on the fire to boil the
sausages and the water for coffee and mat^.
My countryman was from the Rhine, and having
lived better than twenty years in this country, had
nearly forgotten all his German. WhUe speaking
with me, he made such free use of Spanish words,
that I ought reaUy to have known both languages to
keep up the discourse. He did not like the Pampas
— and I did not blame him if he caUed that uncom
fortable place where he lived, his home. He wished
to be once more in Germany, but having no means
of getting there, or if there, any means of subsisting,
he himself thought it a hopeless case. He had
heard that there had been a revolution, but did not
believe it ; and said, that if things were bad now in
Germany, they were worse in South America. He
told me the soil was very productive, but people
did not sow or plant anything, as there existed so
many bad " hombres," who would steal the produce
a great deal faster than it could grow. With
respect to poUtlcs, he only spoke the common senti
ment of the people. Rosas, then at the head of
the government, kept the country quiet ; but how
long would his rule last? A new revolution
would bring a new president, and how would the

round the world. 97
wild guachos in the Pampas behave then ? Even now
they were hard to manage, and always ready for
riot and plunder. Would the next government be
strong enough to keep them in order ?
This universal apprehension explains why no
improvement Is ever attempted in the country ; all
are afraid of a new revolution, and seem wUlIng to
keep themselves in the best circumstances for such
a contingency — that is, not to encumber themselves
with any property.
I left my countryman as I had found him.
His life, he said, was very miserable. Civility
was not to be found among the guachos, and if
once in a way a countryman arrived, it was always
exactly as with me: he stopped for an hour or
two, and was gone.
On the 27th we reached another little town, also
garrisoned with soldiers, and caUed Achiras ; and the
next day gaUoped from morning till night through
a most desolate and barren stretch of country with
out anyroad, and riding over in a straight line towards
a distant hlU which we could just see on the
horizon. This eminence was caUed El Morro, and
we reached it late in the afternoon. On the other
side we found a camp of soldiers, and here they
were really required, for the Indians had shown
themselves In the neighbourhood. At the hut
where we changed horses, the mountain home of
two young persons, the host told us that they

98 FIVE years' journey
had not long ago kiUed his brother. He also
showed us one of their lances taken In fight. It
was a bamboo-pole, fourteen feet long, with an old
bayonet fastened at the end.
Round the camp grazed several troops of horses,
guarded by young feUows, wUd-looking enough to
be Indians themselves. They had to keep the
horses ready for the soldiers to spring In the saddle
at a moraent's warning, and guards were stationed
on the top of the hUl to watch the surrounding
country. The soldiers' carap at the very foot of the
Morro, was a scene of great animation, with its
troops of horses and camp-fires, and whole be\aes
of women, either busy in the tents and huts, or
broiUng meat on the fire and carrying fuel from
the nearest shrubs ; yet it was certainly more like
a camp of gipsies than of soldiers.
We started with fresh horses, though they were
the worst we had had through the whole route ; aU
the best, I suppose, having been impressed by
the soldlei-s. If the Indians had attacked us that
night, we should have been in an imenviable
situation, but as it was, we reached our quarters in
safety. In the evening I had the good fortune to witness
an Argentine partridge hunt. GaUoping along
the plain we started a flock, which separated, and
we .saw one dropping down again not far from us,

ROUND THE WORLD. 99
in some bushy grass. The correo, with a significant
nod, as if he intended to say, " Watch me, wiU
you ?" turned towards the spot, tlU he approached
within twenty yards, when he commenced swing
ing his long whip round his head like a lasso, and,
encircling the place where the single partridge lay,
at a short, quick gallop, he narrowed the circle
more and more, keeping his whip all the time in
motion. The poor little partridge, meanwhile,
squatted down as close as it could under the grass
to keep out of the way of the swinging cord, when
he suddenly struck downwards and killed it on
the spot.
Without alighting from his horse, the old fellow
picked up the dead bird, and then rode on, with
out having lost more than two or three minutes by
the incident.
The next morning, the postiUon took a broad,
thin piece of raw meat, and put it — why should
I scruple to teU the reader, since I had to eat it ?
— under his own seat, upon the saddle, covered
over, it is true, out of regard to cleanliness, with
an old untanned sheepskin, which had served at
least two or three years for a saddle-cloth, and
which slipped about under him in a most dis
tressing manner.
"And did you eat this delicate morsel?" cries
the reader. " I could not have touched it."
Oh yes, dear reader, if you had galloped be-
V 9.

100 FIVE years' journey
tween sixty and eighty miles, and really could get
nothing else, you would take to It readily ; at least,
I did. About twelve o'clock we met one of the Men
doza caravans, a train of about thirty large waggons
or carts (for they all run on two wheels), which
moved slowly, creaking and jarring one behind the
other, across the plains to Buenos Ayres. These
waggons carry the produce of the rich district
of Mendoza, consisting principally of flour, wine
and raisins, to the city, and go commonly in large
numbers for mutual protection, not only against
the Indians, but also against their own country
men, whose mouths not unfrequently water at sight
of their rich freight.
The waggons deserve a short description.
They rest, as I have already said, on two wheels,
which are reaUy gigantic In size. The framework
is tolerably Ught, for the sides are almost always
made of basket-work, having the upper part covered
with raw hides. The high wheels, I was told,
are necessary for the Pampas, in wet weather;
but they give the vehicles, with their high, narrow
bodies, a most singular appearance. Under the
waggon, when traveUing through those parts of
the Pampas where there ai-e no bushes, they carry
some wood for fuel ; and on the back part, secured
by leather thongs, a high earthen water-jar; for
part of the route is a perfect wUderness of sand

ROUND THE WORLD. 101
and salt, and not even drinking water can be had
for very long distances. But the water thus pro
vided is for the men, as the oxen are obliged to
put up with the brackish water found in the ponds.
The waggoners drive their oxen in a way pecu
liar to themselves, perfectly harmonizing with their
southern Indolence. Usually three or four yoke
are fastened to the shaft, and to drive these with
a whip, it would need to be a very long and
heavy one ; but this would not be agreeable, and
therefore they have another " fixing," which Is a
very long pole, generaUy a bamboo, which swings
from the forepart of the waggon in such a way as
to reach out with Its sharp iron-pointed end to the
farthest yoke, at the same time being balanced
at the butt-end by some weight, it is very easily
managed. The driver, who leans lazUy back in
the forepart of the waggon, needs only to keep
the bamboo swinging ; being able, at the sarae
time, to reach the first yoke with its point. The
third yoke, indeed, cannot be reached in this way,
and for their benefit another point, about a foot
long, is fastened right over their backs, and the
driver has only to lift up the butt-end of the pole,
and the point drops down on the poor beasts. For
the two yoke nearest to his waggon, he carries
another little pole, also sharp-pointed, and just long
enough to reach the second yoke.
When attacked by the Indians, they group in

102 FIVE years' JOURNEY
the sarae way as the emigrant waggons on the
western prairies of North America, forming a kind
of fortification, half of the waggons coming round
in a semi-circle, and halting, whUe the other half
close the circle. The cattle are brought Into the
centre, and the waggoners having lances, and not
unfrequently fire-arras, bid defiance to the mshing
swarra of savages, who cannot use their bolas or
lassos against such an impenetrable mass, and
generally retreat with the loss of a couple kUled or
wounded. Our next halting-place was San Luis, the prin
cipal town of the province of that name. Here
the governor sent for the correo, and told him
that he had very narrowly escaped a horde of
Indians, who had been lying in wait for him
farther north, on the route he usuaUy took, when
the savages were on the move, and had thus
missed us. They had advanced this year farther
up towards the north, as the spies reported to the
governor, than ever they had before, and had even
ventured into the mountains, which they had not
left when the messengers came off to San Luis
with the unwelcome news, as fast as their horses
could carr\' them. A corps of cavalry was Instantly
sent out after them, to cut off their retreat ; but
I m'\er heard how far they succeeded.
San Luis is about se\-enty-seven leguas from
the foot of the CordiUeras, and we could see from

ROUND THE WORLD. 103
here the blue range of the vast mountains as plain
as if they had been within a distance of twenty
mUes. The ridge stretched itself like an iramense
monster, with its snow-fiUed chasms — a gigantic
snake of ice, between the sunny VaUeys of the
south. From San Luis our road lay through a perfect
desert — a sandy flat, full of thorns and myrtle-
bushes, with no water, no cool or shady place
at which men or beast could refresh. Through
a distance of twelve leagues — and they seemed
twenty in that desolate district — we saw scarcely
a living thing, only once a lonesome sparrow, and
shortly afterwards a single buzzard ; and this last
passed over the dry and dusty bushes with a
starved, melancholy look, depressing to behold.
The next day we had the same country : nothing
but sand, sand, sand, myrtle and thorns, and low
dry bush, with singular crumbling wood — the
correo did not even know the name of it in
Spanish. It had a veiny, rough stem, from about
one to two inches thick, and I could crush it very
easUy between my fingers. I counted five distinct
kinds of myrtle. On one the leaves looked exactly
like oak-leaves, though not much larger than those
of a common myrtle; another bush had leaves
shaped like a sharp-cut heart, but all were like our
myrtle in blossom and seed.
This day we only changed horses once. There

104 FIVE years' JOURNEY
was no place where a station could be erected,
owing to the want of water ; and the poor beasts
had first to make thirteen, and the next, sixteen
leagues, without anything to eat, there being not
so much as a blade of grass that whole distance.
It was a wearisome ride, and what a stretch for the
poor pack-horse, with about two hundred pounds
upon its back, and going half the way in a
gallop, over sinking sand, the old correo whip
ping It continuaUy, and wanting to keep in a gallop
the whole distance. But that was impossible,
the soft sand being too fatiguing. The horses,
however, stood it well ; but next day, when the
station people brought us, in just such another
wUderness, a pack-horse, whose back was one per
fect sore flora neck to hip, and wanted it to gaUop
a stage of ten leguas, exhausted nature for once
gave in, and the poor beast dropped down in the
path, without being able to rise again. The packs
were then removed from its back, and put on the
postiUon's horse, the correo taking the large port
manteau on his own, and away we went, leaving
the postilion behind with the helpless brute, for
which he could not procure a drop of water or a
handful of grass. Nor had he, poor feUow, a piece
of bread or a drop of anything to drink himself,
and the only water was a little muddy and brackish
pond about half a mile distant. But for this my
correo did not care ; the one was only a horse, the

ROUND THE WORLD. 105
other a peon, a servant, to be treated but Uttle
better than a slave.
In truth, I was astonished when I first entered
the republic, to see how contemptuously the caval-
leros treated the lower classes. They call their
country a republic, and the inhabitants repub
licans, but I had another idea of that form of
government tlU I came here. The peon of South
America — for I found afterwards the same thing
In ChUI — is treated very little better than the
coloured man in the United States. If he
approaches a superior, it is cap in hand — he dare
not sit at the same table with him ; and even while
we slept in the Pampas, however low and miserable
our lodging, while we lay under shelter, the poor
postUion had to sleep outside In the cold, wet air,
with no covering but his thin poncho. Whether
these men were governed by a chief, king, or presi
dent, it would be all the same. God has given them
rights, but they do not know It ; and if ever they do
understand thera, they will become, on their eman
cipation, worse than beasts of prey delivered from
their cage.
The 2nd of July we reached at last the Uttle
vUlage of Pescara 6 Rodeo Chacon, only twenty-
three leguas from Mendoza, and bordering that fer
tile province. Here we were able to procure the
horses plenty of food and water, and we ourselves
F 3

106 FIVE years' JOURNEY
got a clean table, good Mendoza bread, and raost
excellent Mendoza wine.
In the evening, just as we were preparing our
beds, tolerably wearied with our long day's ride, I
heard, in a neighbouring hut, the tones of a guitar,
accompanied by a man's voice. Playing the
guitar is a very common amusement of the
Spanish race, and I had heard it often on our
road. They almost invariably sing with the music,
but their voices are not always meUifluous. On
this occasion, I was proceeding, despite the music,
to roll myself up in my poncho, whUe the old
correo twisted for himself a last cigarette for the
night, when the miserable song I had first heard
was foUowed by another, and now aroused, I
listened with pleasure to the voice of a master.
My curiosity was excited, and though the correo
shook his head, and grambled soraething about
being out of one's senses, getting up in the night
to hear a crazy old song, I wrapped ray poncho
round me, and repaired to the neighbouring
hut. As I entered the room, the men moved aside
fbr me in a friendly way, so that I could have a
fair look into the interior. I saw a young, taU
feUow, his poncho thrown off, and having a guitar
on his arm, leaning on a low bed, formed of stakes
driyen in the ground, with a cow-hide stretched

ROUND THE WORLD. 107
over them, and touching the Instrument with light
and skilful fingers. His black curly hair feU in
long sUken ringlets round his fine, maiden-like
forehead, and his dark eyes glistened in the anima
tion of the song. He wore a short, dark-blue
jacket, and round his waist a broad embroidered
belt, coraraon in the Pampas and fastened in the
fore-part with six large buttons, made of Spanish
doUars, whUe about ten or twelve more dollars
formed a kind of ornament indicating the wealth of
the wearer. Under this belt, in the back of which
was stuck a large knife, with a beautiful ivory
handle, he wore a parti-coloured cheripaw, and his
feet were encased, not in the hide-botas of the
guachos, but in weU-blacked boots, which showed
a smaU and fine foot to advantage. His neck was
encircled by a blood-red kerchief, and a broad-
brimmed straw-hat lay at his side. He was, in
fact, the finest specimen of a wUd young guacho
that I had yet seen ; and though his features were
so soft and even womanly, unusual fire and anima
tion glowed and worked in his eyes.
I had hardly entered when he began the second
part of his song, and whUe the first had been soft
and plaintive, it was wUd and reckless now. At
the same time his words struck home, and thunder
ing bravos resounded on aU sides, while men and
women collected more and more, tiU the room be
came crowded.

108 FIVE years' JOURNEY
I felt very sorry that I did not understand
enough of the language to catch the meaning of his
song ; but I know that it touched on love and
war, and, I doubt not, had some political aUusIons,
for this part of the Argentine republic, as I heard
afterwards in Mendoza, was by no means enthu
siastic for the government of Rosas. When the
young man's song was finished, another caught up
the guitar, and answered him, though not with
such a beautiful voice, but the roof shook with
the perfect shouts of laughter and bravos, which
he elicited.
I remained at the concert more than an hour,
and when I sought my couch, it was a long whUe
before I could get to sleep, so great was the
noise. Next morning, in order to reach Mendoza in
good time, we raade a very early start ; it was
hardly fom- o'clock when we were roused by the
new postilion — the old one had come in about an
hour before, having left the broken-down horse
dead on the spot where it fell. We gaUoped along
a tolerably plain road, tlU the rising sun lit up the
eiiuntry, and showed us In the distance, but now not
so far off, the towering blue range of the CordU-
leras, over which there hung a most singular streak
of white clouds, spotted and striped with darker
lines In a very peculiar manner. I had never in
iny life seen such a formation of cloud, but the

ROUND THE WORLD. 109
lountalns claimed for the raoraent all ray attention,
D that I could hardly look at the sky, but I wondered
ow we could not, at so short a distance, distin-
uish the snow on such a lofty and extensive range.
The first ten leguas of the soil over which we
lassed was not rauch better than that traversed
n the two previous days, the vegetation being
xactly sirailar, except that the bush was less
horny — in fact, there was hardly anything to be
een but myrtle-bushes ; but soon a row of high,
lira poplar-trees, planted in regular lines, as it
eemed, showed the boundary-line of the desert,
,nd we reached a tract of plantations, in which
trchards, pastures, vineyards, gardens, and fields,
Iternated. Masses of screaming parrots hung in
he poplars, or shot with nimble wings from one
ield to another, and hundreds of turtle-doves filled
he large and majestic fig-trees, or cooed frora
he dark foUage of the orange-trees, while well-fed
lattle and horses roamed at wUl over the pastures.
[t was, indeed, a sweet scene for the eye to rest
ipon. From this station, after a repast of fruit and
(vine, we rode down a kind of broad alley, with
plantations on either side, towards a low, flat hiU,
jvhich at first obstructed our view, but on reaching
m open place, we saw far ahead of us a wide and
FertUe plain, dotted with houses and plantations ;
md there — I involuntarily grasped the reins of my

110 FIVE YE.\RS' JOURNEY
horse — was spread before us a scene of enchant
ment. I could not tum my eye from the horizon,
though unable to embrace in one long gaze aU the
features of that wonderful sight,
How can I describe in words what, at the first
glance, even the sight could' not comprehend, and
which reason wUl scarcely believe ?
Stretched out in front of me, as far to the north
and south as eye could reach, lay the blue, wide
range I had recognised, even at Sau Luis, as the
CordUleras, topped by a singular snake-Uke drift,
which I had thought at first to be clouds and
misty banks, but which, parted now by rocks and
hoUow clefts, and snow-filled, snow- decked dales,
rose high into the clouds that covered the upper
ridge, and above, far above, gigantic peaks stiU
shot up as if from the clouds, and sparkled in the
sun, as it fell on their ice and snow-crowned sum
mits. Following with ray eye those giddy heights,
I halted speechless — overpowered — and as I looked
up at the rugged-pronged peaks, on whose points
the heavens seemed to rest, tears fiUed my eyes.
My heart was too fuU, and expressed its emotion
In tears.
My companions, who were famiUar with the
sight and cared little about It, left me behind,
galloping on their road at friU speed ; and, at
length, clapping spurs to my horse, I gaUoped down
the long ea.sy slope, that stretched out towards

ROUND THE WORLD. HI
Mendoza, though my eye remained rivetted on the
snowy chain, the backbone of a world, that lay
before me in gigantic majesty.
But the road itself soon required more of my at
tention than I had yet bestowed upon it. We were
approaching a large and populous town, and signs
of traffic and business began to appear. I passed
strings of mules, laden heavUy with the produce of
distant provinces, on its way to Mendoza, while
others were going back with their light straw
pack-saddles on their backs, quite empty, and
running along in a quick and lively trot. Pas
sengers, too, were numerous, and the country
was highly cultivated, and dotted with small
homely dweUing-houses, here standing alone, there
sociably clustered together. Looking on this wide
and fertile plain, it was easy to understand how
Mendoza had come to be caUed the granary of
the Argentine repubUc.
Reaching a piece of low, swampy, and > reedy
ground, where the soil was too wet to favour agri
culture, I got time again to raise ray eye to the
magnificent mountains ; and a kind of dread rose
in my heart, as I thought that I, weak, helpless
being, should dare to cross their snowy heights,
where grim winter had gathered aU his terrors,
letting thera loose sometimes in gales and whirl
winds, that spread death and desolation around.
But there was also a singular charm in this con-

] 1 2 FIVE years' JOURNEY
sciousness of one's own strength, and courage
withal to dare the elements in their very teeth ;
and indeed I now only thought of the grandeur
and splendour of the mountains ; their terrors
were yet too distant to disturb the pleasure of the
moment. As my eye ran over the wide, fertUe plains,
and the warm sunny dale — for, though the middle
of winter, the air was as warm as it is with us in
May — I thought, how good and righteous must
be the dweUers in the land, surrounded by this
glorious world, presenting everything to lead them
to be good and great ; but my reflections were
interrupted by the correo.
" Compafiero," he said, reining up his horse,
" mire aqua !" and he pointed upwai-ds with his
arm. I looked up, and my hand again grasped my
bridle, but this time in surprise and disgust. Close
to the road, and leaning a Uttle foi-ward, was a
long and stout pole, driven In the soft ground, and
on the top was a ghastly human head, with the
long matted black hair and beard fluttering in the
breeze. " This was a blood-thirsty murderer," resumed
my guide, " whose last feat was to butcher a whole
family. It was here, favoured by this swamp,
that he and his gang committed their atrocities on
poor traveUers. The miscreant was caught at

ROUND THE WORLD. 113
last, and the governor had his head stuck up here,
as a warning for his companions. Since that time,
they have left the place, and there have been no
other murders here lately."
Such was the short acqpunt of the transaction
which the old guacho gave, while the hideous
head of the murderer stared with death-fixed eyes
upon the glories of nature around, unequalled in
beauty by any single spot in the world — a dread-
flU raark in this peaceful scene.
That head — a sight too often encountered in
this republic, where also there is hardly a spot at
which the traveller does not come upon a wooden
cross, the silent memorial of some bloody deed —
marred aU my pleasure. But the swift horses
bore us at fuU speed towards the small and friendly
frontier town of Mendoza. Around us were vine
yards and vUlas, with walled-up fields and gardens,
showing the careful industry of the inhabitants,
whUe those narrow streets looked as if they
stretched out their arms to welcome and shelter
me from all the dangers and hardships of that
vast plain.

114 FIVE years' journey

CHAPTER VIII.

MENDOZA.

We entered the friendly streets of Mendoza
about two o'clock in the afternoon. The aspect
of the little town is entirely in the old Spanish
style : the houses low and flat-roofed, with wide
yards attached, but of a more cleanly appearance
than those of Buenos Ayres, but to rae every
house seemed like a home, for we had now left
behind us those vast plains of La Plata, so abound
ing with terrors and dangers. Behind lay the
long ride on horseback and the blood-thirsty hordes
of savages, and I could now rest after the hard
ships and fatigues I had overcome. The winter
journey over the snow-locked CordiUeras was stiU
to be accompUshed, with Its temporales and yawn
ing precipices. But what of them ? They were
three, four. It might be eight days ahead, and
should certainly not trouble me at this happy
moment.

ROUND THE WORLD. 1 1 5
Mendoza, the principal town of the province of
that narae, is inhabited by about eight thousand
souls, and lies at the foot of the Cordilleras,
which seem to rise up from the very houses into
the skies. I had felt a certain regard and esteem
for the Uttle town, even before I had the pleasure
of setting foot in it. AU the caravans we met,
loaded with the produce of the country ; all the
wine, fruit, flour, bread, cheese, and aqua-ardiente
which we were able to procure on the road, where
did it aU come from but Mendoza? And, cer
tainly, the comfortable appearance of the whole
place, as I made my entry into it, was in keeping
with its reputation.
The town itself indeed is nothing extraordinary,
the quantity of adobe houses always at first giving
a stranger the impression that the next heavy rain
must wash the whole place into one heap of mud
and tUes, from which the forsaken chimneys would
look rather astonished at the surrounding devasta
tion. But such catastrophes never happen; the
mud is stamped and plastered hard and fast, and
rain after rain wears off very little or nothing of
the time-hardened waUs.
Mendoza would be an opulent and more flour
ishing town, if it possessed some better means
of comraunication with neighbouring countries.
From the east it is cut off by the vast and often
dangerous plains, which cannot be safely traversed.

116 FIVE years' journey
except by large caravans, or In the best case, by
nimerous droves of pack-mules; and towards the
west lie the high, towering ridge of the CordiUeras,
cutting off in winter aU thoroughfare for traffic,
and not unfrequently even for passengers, and in
summer affording only a tedious and dangerous
path for pack-mules. In spite of these disadvan
tages, Mendoza is the granary of the Argentine
republic ; and throughout the summer sends in
every direction, even as far as ChUI, drove after
drove of mules, laden with raisins, wine, and other
produce. Several foreigners reside at Alendoza, principaUy
Englishmen and Americans, and I met one ItaUan
who spoke German, and three of ray countrymen.
Two of these last were hat-makers — the Germans
In the Pampas seem to take to hat-making — and
the third was a goldsmith. But next spring the
traveUer may look for these sojourners in vain ;
they had all set their thoughts towards the north
west, to the irresistible diggings. But it was
Indeed a pleasure to rae to find them at Mendoza,
for they were, In every respect, very kind and
obliging, and treated me in a very friendly and
cordial manner.
I made acquaintance here with an American
gentleman, Mr. Vandice, who has the merit of
having introduced the first printing-press into the
CordUleras. With the enterprise characteristic of

ROUND THE WORLD. 117
his country, he brought the press with him from
the United States, and commenced printing in a
town and country where the art was not only
unknown, but where he had to create a demand
for it. In this he had at last succeeded. The
Mendozlans had as yet received aU their news
papers and books from Buenos Ayres. A news
paper he could not establish, as nothing new ever
happened at Mendoza, and any event that might
occur would have been known in every family,
before he could have printed it ; but after having
studied the Spanish language to perfection, and
to master it more readily — having married a very
pretty young lady from Achiras — he started a
monthly review, devoted to useful and entertaining
knowledge. But this was only the first step in
the enterprise, and he had now to hawk the peri
odical out by the single copy, leaving it himself,
as he told me, at the houses of the different
persons whom he expected to become subscribers,
and who conceived the pleasing delusion that the
obUging foreigner had presented them with the
"book," tiU a biU reminded them of the obli
gation. In this way he got — not unlike the
Yankee clock-pedlars in the West — a stock of
subscribers; for the serioras considered it a kind
of fashion, and he was then on the safe side.
Besides this periodical, he reprinted the school-
books, which Mendoza received from Buenos

118 five years' JOURNEY
Ayres ; and the State having, I presume, no copy
right, left hira in quiet possession of his spoUs.
After this, he went a step farther, and taught
the Mendozlans not only the use, but also the
necessity of visiting-cards, things they had, up
to that time, only known by the reports of daring
traveUers. He commenced first with having them
himself, and spreading them through the town ;
then he persuaded the governor to try the
experiraent, when the vanity of the female
population — who gloried in hanng their naraes
printed — was excited, and visiting-cards becarae
the rage.
But notwithstanding his success — which was
gained indeed only by great efforts — spite of the
greatest difficulties, such as having, for example,
to create his journeymen printers, by raising ap
prentices himself — he was already tired of the
business, and ready to seU out and start for the
diggings. He had, in fact, a strong bias towards
Cahfornia, and I only hope he did not afterwards
give way to it.
If outward show makes good republicans, the
Mendozlans are the very best, for they sport their
red-coloured ribbons, waistcoats, and everything else
to excess, and their very boots are striped with
red " Federacion 6 muertfe." If an article can pos
sibly be dyed red, they wUl not have it In any
other colour. But this has all been changed

ROUND THE WORLD. 119
since, and the Argentine republic has thrown off
its red ponchos and Rosas together.
The red ribbons were at this tirae raore rampant
at Mendoza than in Buenos Ayres itself, where
strangers at least were not troubled with this
nonsense ; but here no foreigner was allowed to
enter the palace court, without a red ribbon round
his hat, and another in his button-hole, bearing
the old device : " Viva la confederacion Argentina ;
mueran los salvajes, &c. Unitarios."
After having Uved such a long time on meat,
with hardly any vegetables or fmits, I enjoyed the
delicious Mendozian fruits very much, and was
eating them nearly aU day. They were very
cheap, and for six cents (threepence) I could eat
as raany oranges, grapes, and figs as I pleased, for
two or three days together.
The Mendozian wine is most exceUent. It is
nearly aU red, sweet, and with a great deal of
spirit, but the flavour is delicious. Like the fruit,
it is very cheap. When we sent for some in the
evening, we paid coraraonly one real (sixpence) for
a gaUon. The vineyards are kept in a different way here
from those in our country, on account of the very
warm climate. On the Rhine, and in aU the
northern states, they want as much sun for the
ripening grapes as they possibly can get ; but in this
secluded spot, sheltered from the sharp west and

120 FIVE years' JOURNEY
south-west winds by the CordiUeras, they have
rather too much sun than otherwise, and therefore
plant their vines in a kind of arbour, in rows, on
tolerably high poles, from whence they reach over
to one another, forming shady and covered walks,
in which the grapes, after the hot season commences,
hang in the shade of their own leaves.
Bread, meat, and vegetables are cheap in the
same proportion ; rents and servants' wages are
low. The country itself is reaUy a pai-adlse, and
what can man wish for more ? Would not this be a
happy asylum for aU who are tired of a busy life ;
tired of politics ? Of European politics they would
in this place indeed hear nothing more, but they
would have to deal with Argentine revolutions.
On the 9 th of July I had the good fortune to
witness one of the festivals In honour of the
Confederation and liberty, as the\- caU it — just
as we call our war in Germany of IS 15 the w-ar
of liberty, or rather as it is called by our kings.
In the morning of that day they had a great
parade in the public square, and in the evening the
town was Uluminated. The soldiers, a smaU troop of
regulars, numbering about one hundred and twenty
or one hundred and fifty men, sauntered slowly, and
at it seemed, leisurely through the streets to very
indifferent music, which some negroes tried to
blow out of a couple of horns and trumpets.
They wore perfectly white uniforms, with red

ROUND THE WORLD. 121
caps and facings, and had muskets with bayonets ;
but as they drew nigh, I found that their lower
garments were not all quite of the colour of inno
cence. Very great discipUne, or regard to uni-
forraity, did not exist ; some had shoes, some boots,
and some corns on their feet. Others carried their
boots over their arms, one hanging down on each
side, an arrangement to which the officers, of course,
could have no objection. As they marched along,
they carried on a very Uvely, and I doubt not a
very interesting conversation.
The Ulumination was a rauch more brUliant
affair, and was ordered in sorae parts of the town,
even after dark, by a parcel of soldiers, who rode
through the streets, and stopped before each door,
shouting some uninteUigible words, when they
pressed on to the next one without waiting for a
reply. The houses of Mendoza, as I have already
observed, are buUt after the old Spanish style ; in
large squares, inclosing roomy yards, with hardly any
windows towards the front of the street, and those
grated. The iUumination, therefore,, was effected
by four or five taUow-candles placed before the
house on the pavement, and the boys in the streets
took upon themselves the regulation of the festivity,
carrying away a candle here, where they thought
one less would do, and planting it in sorae raore
favourite spot. The iUuraination lasted as long as
VOL. I. G

122 FIVE years' JOURNEY
the fourth part of a taUow-candle would admit.
There is nothing more pitiful in this world, than
any kind of rejoicing ordered by government.
Next day, I saw the Argentuie cavalry on their
retum from getting their ration — a piece of meat,
which they always hang in a comraodious manner
on their left stirmp, and gaUop along through the
town, striking it against the horses' legs and beUy
and against their owa dirty feet. The cavalry use
stirrups, and wear shoes. The common guachos
in the Pampas, in riding, use only smaU pieces of
wood fastened to the stirrup-leather, which slip
between their two first toes, sticking out of the
bota of raw hide, so that the whole foot rests upon
them. These soldiers had to march out a few days
afterwards, as the Indians — dare-devUs as they
were — had crossed the desert, and showm them
selves in force close to the frontier settlements,
which sent for succour to the town. The correo,
to whom I spoke about it, told me he was sure
they had followed his track, for the Indians, as aU
the spies reported, had some white leaders, of course
from the party of the Unitarios ; and as he him
self had brought to Mendoza sorae very important
despatches, and a not inconsiderable quantity of gold
in his old portmanteau, it was very probable that
they had got wind of the fact, and done their
utmost to intercept hira. On raissing him at El

ROUND THE WORLD. 123
Morro, they had pushed on to overtake him, in
which I was very glad that they were foiled.
All this time I was of course busy inquiring
about the possibiUty of crossing the CordiUeras,
and where I could get a guide. Though hearing
even here some dreadful stories about the tempo
rales, or snow-storms of those regions, I was not
disheartened ; for I learned, at the same time, that
between the gales there was always an interval of
fine weather, in which traveUers, if the snow had
hardened enough, could cross over in comparative
security. AU the Uttle by-stories then, of freezing
to death and getting blinded by the sunlit snow,
fell on a deaf ear, as I had already heard more
terrible tales, which proved to have no foundation.
My first object was to find a vaquiano, and this
in fact seemed my chief difficulty ; for there was
only one man in the place wUUng to risk the
passage at this time of the year, when there had
just been a very heavy snowfall; and he asked
three hundred doUars for his trouble — a sura I
could not afford. He said that he did not like
to risk his life for nothing, and would at least
have some recompense for the peril. Three
hundred doUars were at that time to me of more
consequence than aU the savages of the Pampas
and the temporales of the mountains together ;
but the man did not mean what he said. After a
quarter of an hour's debate, he came down to two
G 2

124 FIVE years' JOURNEY.
hundred : the next day he was wUUng to take one
hundred ; and the day after, I raade an agreeraent
with him to take me over for five ounces in gold — he
finding mules to the edge of the snow, and others
again in ChUi, whUe I was to supply provisions,
and hire two men to carry my saddle, rations, and
charcoal. The sura demanded was then about
the value of £17 in Mendoza.
It required a couple of days to complete our
preparations ; for we had to secure provisions
enough to hold out, if caught by a temporale,
for two or three weeks in one of the stone-huts
or casuchas, which are buUt along the winter track
over the mountains. For provisions mountain-
traveUers usually take, besides some onions, salt,
and coffee, as main stock, their charque, or dried
beef, which they prepare in such a manner as
to compress into the smaUest space the greatest
amount of nuti-iment ; and for this purpose they
hammer down the hard and tough charque as flat
as possible, knocking one piece upon the other, tiU
a mass of some thirty pounds is reduced into about
a square foot of space.
Through the help of my countrymen I got also
some good bread, and with an iron boUer, to boU
some water for coffee, or " caldo," I was perfectly
equipped for the march.
But the Spaniards are nearly as tedious and
rldicvUous with their passports as we are in Germany.

ROUND THE WORLD. 125
Although I had received a passport vise' from
Buenos Ayres to Valparaiso, I had to undergo
the same cereraony here, except that I got ray
passport gratis at Buenos Ayres, while they were
friendly enough here to charge me five dollars for
permission to leave the republic. When I pro
tested against a new visa, and told them at the
police-office of that I had already received, they
asked me very quietly what they had to do with
that ; and as I could of course give them no satis
factory reply, my only alternative was to pay the
five doUars.
The payment made, my passport went the whole
circuit of the police-office, out of one room into
another, and I with it, through five different apart
ments, and past five different functionaries, tUl it
became like an album, fuU of autographs, and
inscribed five times over with the motto of the
Argentine republic : ' ' Viva la confederacion Ar
gentina, mueran los salvajes Unitarios*."

126 FIVE years' journey

CHAPTER IX.
A WINTER PASSAGE ACROSS THE CORDILLERAS.
On the 1 1th of July, having made rather a late
start to reach only the outskirts of the town, we
camped close to a house, without a fire ; but
though it was a cold night, I slept weU, glad
enough to have entered at last on the finishing
stage of my land voyage. Our Uttle caravan con
sisted, besides the guide, a ChUean, with a green
ChUean poncho, (a colour not particularly liked in
the Argentine repubUc), of two peons or servants,
who were to can-y my baggage and provisions
across the snow when we took to walking, now
aU mounted on mules.
The morning rose in great beauty. The sky
was clear and blue, and when the sun ascended
over the wide and occan-Uke Pampas, and even a
long whUe before, whUe It was yet dusky on the
plains, the snowy peaks of the gigantic mountains
sparkled in his rosy beams, showing their sharp

ROUND THE WORLD. 127
and rugged outlines on the dark-blue transparent
sky. At last the sun threw his warm and glowing
rays over the wide landscape, and over the cloud-
Uke snow-fields of the CordiUeras, and the birds
chirped, the dew glistened on the green leaves of
the bushes, our animals trotted nimbly along the
narrow path ; and even ray corapanions, in other
respects not very agreeable to look upon, sung and
whistled, as rauch in love with the beauteous
raorning as the birds and raules.
To the right of our path stood a solitary and
lonesome little house, surrounded by a smaU garden,
and about fifteen steps from the door, in the direc
tion of the path, was a low, thick-stemmed willow,
where my three companions suddenly halted,
and pulUng off their hats sat a few minutes
motionless in their saddles, their heads devoutly
bent in prayer. I gazed at them in astonish
ment, when my guide, clapping on his hat again,
pointed up, with a grin, at the tree, exclaiming
"una bota" (a boot).
I looked up and I saw the foot and leg, up to
the knee, of the same murderer whose head had
looked down on me from the pole on the other side
of Mendoza, naUed on the tree. I turned shud
dering away from the disgusting sight, clapped
spurs to my mule, and gaUoped ahead ; the peons
laughed, but foUowed.
It raay be necessary, no doubt, to hold up to a

128 FIVE years' JOURNEY
people with whom murders are of rather common
occurrence, the consequences of such a crime
wherever they turn ; but it is certainly a most dis
agreeable thing for one who does not require this
reminder, to encounter such a spectacle everywhere
in his path. And what had those poor people
done, who lived in that house, that they were to
have this disgusting sight always before them ?
Leaving this accursed spot behind us, the quickly
changing scenery brought new and happier thoughts,
and my attention was soon arrested by whole herds
of guanakas — a species of lama — which, though
we were hardly four leguas from town, continu
aUy broke through the bushes and scampered over
the first slopes of the rising liIUs.
The guanaka is a splendid animal, larger than
the Virginian deer, with a longer neck and soft,
splendid wool. But there is not much sport in
shooting them, as they are not shy enough ;
and I believe I could have kiUed a dozen in a few
hours, if I had been so disposed. The flesh, espe
cially of the younger guanaka, is most exceUent.
At a distance of thirteen leguas from Mendoza,
during which we had held nearly a northern course,
we enter the frontier hUls of the Cordilleras. As
yet we had seen no ti-ecs — nothing but low shrubby
bushes grew In the dales, or on the slopes, where
flocks of tame goats, the property of some moun
taineers, grazed and climbed about.

ROUND THE WORLD. 129
In the afternoon we progressed rapidly in the
ascent, keeping aU the time close to a little water
course, with rocky and high cliffs rising up on each
side. That night we had some difficulty in finding a
good sleeping-place ; but camped at last under the
shelter of a high, steep rock, not far from a small
trickling stream. Wood was very scarce, and we
were obUged to be satisfied with just sufficient fire
to broU some meat and boU some water for coffee,
turning in afterwards, or rather turning out under
the open shelving rock. Being so fresh from a
warm country, I felt excessively chilled that night.
We had passed the previous night in the open air,
and it was, in comparison, warm to this place,
which I had thought perfectly sheltered by the
rocks. Next morning I found the water which I
had standing near me, in a tin cup, as a drink, was
frozen. This was the first sign of our having made some
headway up the mountains ; and after half-an-
hour's march that morning, we found plenty more.
The little stream, by whose bank we shaped our
way, was covered with ice, and where it had over
flown the path, a very common occurrence, the
ground was so slippery that our mules slid about,
sometimes in a really dangerous manner. The
exclamation by which my Chilean guide sought to
encourage and cheer the poor animals, was charac-

130 FIVE years' JOURNEY
teristic, it was, " Oh raula, oh raula !" rerainding
them that they were mules — and how could mules
sUp ? In truth, the poor animals tried their best,
and always succeeded, so that we passed places
where horses would have broken their own and
their riders' necks.
Higher and higher we chmbed, tUl reaching the
first summits we found ourselves on a flat and
naked, snow-covered ridge ; but though these hiUs
are tolerably high, and would be caUed in many
countries raountains, here, in comparison with the
CordiUeras, they seem contemptible, and the Men
dozlans gave them the rather equivocal narae of the
" piojos de las CordUleras."
The highest spur of the hiUs suddenly opened
a panorama, the beauty of which I shaU never for
get. Right below us lay a warm, green vaUey,
overgrown with dark thickets of bush, traversed
by a sraall stream like a sUver thread, running
up to the rugged, snow-covered steeps of the
mountains, which rose alraost perpendicularly on
high, towering even from where we stood, far up
into the clouds, and changing in colour from the
dazzling white of the sunlit snow-fields to the
dark hoUows of the sharp-cut clefts in which no
snow could stick, and which seemed to pierce deep
Into the very heart of the mountains where they
opened their black yawning chasms.
But as the terrors of that wintry region drew

ROUND THE WORLD. 131
nearer, I became impatient to try my fortune on its
giddy heights. My vaquiano, no admirer of scenery
— particularly, as he afterwards told rae, when it
included any snow, which he would have to cross —
had got on before me, whUe I lingered to look
around. As I ascended, I found tracks of the guanakas
and also of the puraa, or American lion, a kind of
large panther, the track of which is somewhat
larger than that of the North American panther.
I hoped to meet one of these animals in the snow,
but my vaqviiano told me they were very seldom
encountered in the day time, and only prowl about In
search of prey at night. The smaU tracks of foxes
appeared at different places.
In the evening we reached a valley — a fertile
spot in the midst of barren and snow-clad moun
tains. Here mules could feed to their hearts'
content, and we ourselves had a good meal of
guanaka meat, and discussed a couple of bottles of
wine, to strengthen ourselves for our next tedious
march. The house at which we stopped was the
last frontier of the Argentine republic. We
therefore bought a couple of horns of wine to take
with us on our journey, and the next raorning
made an early start up the mountains.
The Uttle mountain stream, the Tucunjado, which
came down here in a self-opened vaUey, had its
source at the very top of the Cordilleras, and we

132 FIVE years' JOURNEY
had to foUow its current to the highest ridge — a
ridge that parted, indeed, the waters of the Atlantic
and Pacific Oceans.
We kept on the left shore of the stream, and
the chain of the mountains opened before us like
an immense portal seeming to admit us into their
inmost depths. But slowly and by degrees the
path again ran up, and though at first we had the
mountain-stream so near us that we could stop to
let our mules drink, the next mile brought us
raany feet above its murmuring water and here I
noticed the vestiges of the rushing torrents, which
roU down when the hot sun of summer melts the
snow-fields on high, and pours the flood into the
deep and narrow gulUes. The tonents rise at
least forty feet above the height at which the
water now was, and iramense rocks, broken loose
by the powerful current, are carried far below,
sometiraes several hundred feet from their previous
position. At first the path — for it was but a narrow mule
track — led up as slo^vly and on as broad and com
fortable a slope as we could wish for ; but as the
sides of the mountain drew closer and closer toge
ther, the path began to run by deep and crumbUng
banks, and the raules with great difficulty picked
their steps. We now passed places where to our
left the abyss lay raany hundred feet deep, while
on the right, impending rocks hung high above us.

ROUND THE WORLD. 133
But so graduaUy did the path alter, so Uttle by
little did the ridge narrow, and the steep edge of
the precipice draw nearer that I did not notice it
at first ; all my attention being taken up by the
scenery. Here I saw the first condor, the giant
vulture of the CordUleras, hovering just above our
heads. It altered its course in descending, and flew
over towards the other side of the hoUow, which
seemed to me hardly half a mile distant, but the
bird becarae sraaUer and smaller, appearing at last
not much larger than a crow long before the
passage was crossed. Then I felt more than saw
the vastness of these mountains, and I was going
to stop ray mule, to have a fairer view, when a
caU from my guide, warned me to beware, and
look weU to my path.
The path, indeed, had become so nanow that it
seemed to me, as it wound Itself round a projecting
rock, absolutely to terminate. I could see nothing
more than a thin light streak, as if drawn with a
piece of chalk, and I could not believe that this
was our path. The rock round which it went did
not show the least cut or notch, where even a goat
could have planted its feet, let alone our clumsy
mules. The little crumbling pieces of stone which
our mules' hoofs kicked over the precipice, made
me sensible of the danger, faUing straight down to
a depth that my blood froze to think of.
But this was no place to stop at ; and I

134 FIVE years' journey
observed closely the cautious raanner in which my
guide raised himself in his right stirrup, not doubt
ing that we were now at the spot of which he had
told me before, and where mules and riders were
often thrown over. I was therefore careful not to
Irritate ray raule at a place where it certainly knew
better how to go than I did — accidents having
happened frora traveUers puUing their bridles at
the wrong time. My guide went on very cooUy
along a traU where miUes had to keep the very
edge of the precipice. Mules frequently carry a
load over this track, when they are very careful not
to knock against the over-hanging rock, as the
least push would send them over the precipice. Our
mules, it is true, had no load, but they were accus
tomed to canying one ; and therefore kept the
extreme edge, to my great discomposure. But I
left it entirely to its own instinct, only Ufting my
left foot in the stirrup, as I saw the vaquiano do, so
that, in case of an accident, I raight throw myself
off its back, and cUng to the rock.
But why, the reader may ask, did you not get
off the mule at once, and pass dangerous places
on foot ? Simply, my reader, in the first place,
because the danger is the same for many miles;
and secondly, because those raen who pass their
lives in leading travellers over these mountains,
know best where to walk, and where to ride, and I
foUowed the example my guide set me. Nor, to

round THE WORLD. 135
teU the truth, did I at the raoraent think of any
thing but ray mule, as he moved slowly, step by
step, round the yawning abyss, with scarcely three
inches to spare on either side. As we proceeded,
the path got stUl narrower, the abyss seemed
deeper ; and looking down once, between the mule's
side and my stirrups, I saw below in the deep hoUow
a perfect heap of skeletons — mules that must have
tumbled down since the last flood — or their bones
would have been washed away. In my horror I
forgot the warning of the vaquiano, and grasping
the reins of ray raule, tried to turn it away from
the edge, which seemed to me as if it must crumble
beneath its next step. My imprudence was near
being fatal to me, for turning the head of my mule
away from the precipice, it lost its sure footing,
stepped aside, and striking the saddle-bags against
the rock, it stumbled forward, and — no, dear
reader, no such thing — we did not turable. The
mule planted its fore hoofs on a firm part of the
crumbling ledge, and lifted itself up again, just as
a smaU piece of stone, loosened by the effort, fell
noiselessly from the path, and springing from under
us, toppled over, and struck long afterwards with
a duU hoUow sound into the deep.
I need not be ashamed to say that this Uttle
incident made rae trerable, and I thought the blood
became stagnant in my veins. But raules are
splendid aniraals for such a route; and whether

136 five years' journey
for the sake of the rider, or their own, they proceed
with the utmost caution, as I had now learnt from
experience. From that raoraent I left ray raule
to do as he pleased, and he carried rae safely over.
Just at the end of the passage, where the path
again turned round a rock, which hid the guide
from view, I reached a snow-drift, or rather a ledge
of about ten or twelve paces, where a quantity of
snow had drifted from a narrow gulch; and a
space not six Inches in width, and even that
sloping down, was the only footing left. Even
the mule now came to a stand. I pressed his
flanks with my heels, to urge him on ; but the two
peons, who came close behind, called to me to
alight here, and not attempt to pass that place in the
saddle. At the same tirae, the guide appeared
on the other side of the rock, and I saw that
he was on foot ; but how to get down on such a
place was the difficulty. On the left side I should
have stepped down at least a couple of hundred
feet; therefore, I must try the other. Throwing
my leg with a sudden jerk over the mule's neck,
I slipped down against the rock, the mule pressing
as hard against me as it could, to prevent my
pushing it down the precipice. I dodged beneath
his head, and with the bridle grasped in my hand,
led the way over the snow-drift.
That night we also camped in the very path, though
at a broader part, and not far frora the snow-

ROUND THE WORLD. 137
Une, which we had seen gUstening above us from
the time we first entered the gorge. Wood was
here very scarce, consisting only of dry thin
bushes, which forced themselves out of cracks
and fissures in the rocks. Below, in the steep
and nanow gulches that run out towards the
Tucunjado, we could stiU see the green myrtles,
but none reached the height to which we had
now climbed.
Our mules had now, in fact, nothing to subsist
upon, except a very Uttle dry wiry grass, and the
tops of the bushes ; but when I regretted their
hard fare, the ChUean remarked that this was
nothing, being only the first night ; and asked
what I would think of the second and third,
if I thought this a privation ? The second and
third ! Poor beasts ! I began to be sorry that
I had taken them so far up with us, since we
should in any case have to walk whenever we
reached the snow-Une; but the ChUean laughed
at my scruples. They were only mules; and
even in summer-time, when they crossed the Cor^
diUeras, had to subsist, he said, four days together
without a blade of grass, sustaining themselves
on their own dung strewn over the mountain paths.
To obtain them some water, the peons had to
crawl with thera down the steep slope, to a depth
of about three hundred yards, to the Tucunjado.
When we came to a halt, I questioned my guide

138 FIVE years' JOURNEY
as to the skeletons we had seen lying below, and
he told me that it very seldom happened that mules
bearing riders feU down the precipice, uiJess they
rode in the midst of a drove of pack-mules, a
practice now avoided. Mules were generaUy pushed
down by those foUowing, especiaUy if they were
young mules, here for the first time, and stepping
one after another higher and higher up, tUl, at last,
reaching those places where they could not turn
back, even when necessary, they pushed up between
the rocks and the animals before them, to escape
the precipice, and so forced the outer mules into
the abyss.
The little fire that we were able to kindle this
night, expired before we feU asleep; but being
accustomed, by a long residence in the woods, to
carap out, sometimes in very cold weather, I laid
ray blanket and poncho down backwoods' fashion
on the ledge of the rock, rolled rayself up in it,
and prepared for a comfortable nap, to the admira
tion of my Chilean guide.
" Bueno compafiero !" exclaimed this worthy.
" If you understand nothing else, you know at
least how to make y our bed in the mountains."
Next morning, after a three hours' march over
not very dangerous paths, we reached the snow
region. For sorae time we had been drawing
nearer and nearer to the white masses that covered
the heights ; now they surrounded us on every side,

ROUND THE WORLD. 1 39
leaving, notwithstanding, our own path free as yet.
But soon a snow-drift, blown by a sharp north
easter in a smaU strip across our road, gave us the
first warning of perU, and half-an-hour later our
mules were wading up to their knees in the white-
yielding drift. Grira winter had drawn its pall
over the slumbering raountains, and audacious
huraan beings dared to suUy it with their feet.
This day we stopped when we carae to a little
sunny space, where the snow had melted away
from the northern side, leaving a few tolerably
strong bushes visible, which afforded us the means
of preparing some charcoal, and making snow-
shoes. The mode of preparing the charcoal
was simple enough. The peons broke down a
quantity of bush, which they heaped into two good
piles, and setting thera on fire, allowed thera to
burn awhile, when they covered them up with
ground ; then, taking out the relics, they put them
into a small bag, which they had brought
from Mendoza for that purpose. The whole
quantity obtained did not exceed ten or fifteen
pounds, and I did not see how we could make this
last for our whole journey, even with the finest
weather, much less if we should be caught in a
temporale, and detained for two or three weeks.
Our snow-shoes consisted of a couple of sheep
skins, wound tightly over our boots, to prevent
the snow frora reaching the leather and sticking to

140 FIVE years' journey
It, whUe they also kept the feet warra. Under the
sheep-skin was placed a piece of tanned leather,
very much like a moccasin, and corresponding to
the sole of a shoe, but fastened afterwards over
the foot. But these appendages were merely tried
to-day, being wom only for a short distance, to see
how they would answer, as we could yet ride our
mules, and we were to camp in the Punta de la
Vaca, a kind of stone-hut, erected for the use of
traveUers. WhUe the others were busy on the ledge, I
climbed about the hlU, admiring the giant tracks of
the condors, of which I found a great many ves
tiges ; when my ChUean guide came up, carrying
something in his poncho, and laughing, asked
me to guess what he had got. I might have
tried for a year, and should not have guessed
right, for it was nothing less than ten or twelve
pound? of the most deUcious raisins. I inquired
eagerly where he had found them, and he pointed
to a narrow little gulch, which entered the main
valley about half a mile below.
Raisins in the snow ! Here was a phenomenon ;
and I must acknowledge that at first I reaUy
thought of the possibiUty of raisins having grown
up here in summer, and becoming dried by the
cold and snow. At any rate I would see rayself
the place where they had been found, and wading
back that distance — and it was about as far again

ROUND THE WORLD. 141
as I had imagined — I came upon no natural vine
yard, as I had almost expected, but on some
twenty raisin-boxes, which, as I heard afterwards,
a mule-drover, caught by a temporale just on the
edge of the snow region, had thrown off here, and
abandoned, flying for his life down the moun
tains. The winter setting in, had afterwards made it
impossible to take thera to the place of their des
tination, and they were left to the mercy of the
weather, and of passing travellers, which ray guide
proved plainly enough, would be very equivocal.
One of the peons, indeed, came down with rae to
fill his poncho ; and when I reraonstrated with
him, repUed that if he did not take the raisins, others
would ; and, another thing, he Uked them very
much. Towards evening we had everything ready again,
and moved about a mile farther up the ascent,
the snow becoming so deep that, in some
places, our mules could hardly get along. But
at last we reached the place, ' una casa," as the
vaquiano said, though in truth it was a mise
rable stone hovel, into which we at home
would not think of putting a horse in winter.
And winter we found it here, where not even
the dry points of bushes protruded from the deep
snow, and not a piece of wood was to be had for a
fire, and not a blade of grass for the poor raules,
which had also been without a feed the previous

142 FIVE years' journey
night, and would be the next night, on their return,
if the vaquiano, who was to go back with them,
could not reach the frontier house before night.
Mules are reaUy, after the camels of the deserts,
the toughest animals on earth ; but even they give
up at last, over-burdened and over-worked by cruel
man ; and I met with numberless skeletons of
mules along our path, where they had faUen down
dead, the drivers taking off their packs and dividing
them among the others, whUe the poor dying
animals were left to theU fate, when fatigue had
not already kUled.
That night we had to make our tea from snow
— a miserable drink — the water being too far off,
and too difficult to get at. Next morning, after a
night certainly not very pleasant, we prepared for a
snow-march. The guide ha^^ng gone back with
the raules, one peon took ray saddle and saddle
bags tied weU together on his back, and the other
shouldered the provisions and coals ; I myself had
ray rifle with a German hunting-pouch, in which I
carried my araraunition, one of Wedgewood's mani
fold writers (by the bye, the raost practicable writing
materials a traveUer can use on his way), and some
clean Unen and bread ; and so w,'e were aU fixed, as
the Yankees say, for a tramp. Each of us car
ried, besides this, a chair, and a very handy one
too, though it had neither legs nor back, consisting,
In fact, only of a piece of sheep-skin fastened to the

ROUND THE WORLD. 143
hind part of the belt, and hanging down behind,
with the wool inward, nearly to the back part of
the knee. On sitting down on the snow, this chair
was of course always in the right place.
Leaving our hut that morning, and bending
round a projecting point of a steep spur, which
carae down one of the dark towering clefts so
sharp and straight that no snow could lie upon it,
we saw the upper vale of these gigantic raountains
stretching out before us far to the west ; and there,
where the first chain of mountains rose again,
above this, lay the dividing ridge of the two
oceans, the backbone of the world.
The view was as tenible as it was beautiful, and
I stopped to look up a minute to the snowy peaks
which thronged around me, forming one vast
theatre of piled-up mountains.
My two peons — and they were two as dirty and
rough-looking fellows as ever the Pampas had bred
— profited by this rest, and coming down with
their hands on their staffs, tUl their backs, with the
load upon it, lay nearly horizontal ; they rested in
this position about a minute or two, singing, or
rather mumbling, a low, monotonous song about
their journey and God's help to it against tempo
rales and avalanches.
Far in the distance, but not so far but what
I thought we might reach it about twelve o'clock,
we saw the first " casucha ;" but traveUing along

144 FIVE years' JOURNEY
as quick as possible, it seemed to me, after a two
hours' march, as if we had not advanced two
hundred yards.
Towards mid-day we reached a snow-gUde. The
mountains here are too steep to admit of an
avalanche as in Switzerland, but the snow, be
coming too heavy in the upper regions, presses
down on the lower layers, and sometiraes the whole
side of a mountain is cleared by a snow-gUde in a
few minutes, fiUing the vaUey, into which it shoots,
for raUes around with immense masses of snow.
We had to clamber about for more than two
hours to clear the first snow-gUde ; sometimes
making our way over soft, sometimes over hard
snow, and such tumbling down into hoUows, sUp-
ping, and gUding backwards and forwards, on the
cold slippery ground, was enough to tire any man,
let him be as famUiar with hardships as he may.
It was not tUl sun-down that we reached the
first casucha. My peons were quite knocked up,
and they had to rest before they could set about
preparing any supper.
This was our first night In the real snow, the
first carap In the very raldst of the dangers of the
passage. Should the weather only keep as it was
three days longer, we should be out of the reach of
teraporales, and I could laugh at the perUs we had
encountered, as weU as aU the dreadful stories,
which I had heard at Rio de Janeiro, at Buenos

ROUND THE WORLD. 145
Ayres, and even at Mendoza. A temporale, how
ever, raight happen at any moment ; the very next
morning the heavens might be clouded, and that
is the only warning. In these mountains of the ap
proach of a storm.
I doubt if there were ever in aU the world
a couple of such dirty nasty cooks as my two
peons. So long as I knew thera and enjoyed their
company, I never saw them wash their hands or
faces, and I really believe their mother might say
the same of them. They attempted to persuade
me that it was dangerous to wash one's self,
coming into these latitudes ; and when they saw me
doing this hazardous thing with snow, as water was
not to be had, they left the casucha in utter astonish
ment, and came out to look and laugh at rae. After
wards, when I showed them that my hands had not
cracked from the use of the snow-water, as they had
prophecled, they shrugged their shoulders, and said I
had not got such a tender and soft skin as they had.
If I had not gone through so good a school in
the Pampas, I should never have been able to live
with these filthy fellows ; but as it was, I took
things coolly, knowing, moreover, that with the
mountains I should get over this disagreeableness.
When we stmck camp, the peons kindled a fire
— and a very smaU one it was — with the charcoal
which we had brought with us, boiled some water
in a little iron pot, and coraraenced the preparation
VOL. I. H

146 FIVE years' JOURNEY
of jour caldo, or soup. One chopped up some
charque, previously weU punched between a couple
of stones ; the other cut up sorae onions as small
as possible, and mixing the whole together in one
corner of a poncho — which, to judge from its
appearance, had certainly served that purpose for a
very considerable time — added some pepper and
salt, and transfened the mixture to a tolerably
large cow-horn, which it half fiUed. Over this was
poured hot or boUing water, when the soup was
completed, and after stirring up with a knife, be
came ready for use. It was always presented, In
a kind of rough politeness, first to me, and
what I had left, the peons ate themselves, not un
frequently preparing a second mess in addition — ^for
the caldo was their favourite dish.
The casuchas of the mountains are simple stone
huts, buUt by the government to give shelter in
winter to the correo, or to traveUers, prmcipaUy as
a refuge from temporales. They are raised from
twelve to sixteen feet from the ground, to prevent
their being easUy covered by drift-snow or snow-
glldcs, and they are approached by a rough stair
case, which leads up to them. They have, of
course, no windows, and the only accommodation
they afford, is a small chimney and some air-holes,
which traveUers, when they camp there, most com
monly fill up, during theu- stay, with snow, and
open again when they leave.

ROUND THE WORLD. 147
The floor of these casuchas is common earth,
thrown upon stones similar to those composing
the waUs, and the ground is, therefore, cold and
damp. StUl they are a great accommodation to
the traveUer, and have saved many a life, which
but for thera would have been lost in the snow.
We were up again with daybreak, and after
eating our caldo, made an early start. We had to
cross on that forenoon two large snow-slips, and
hard work it was to cUmb over those rough and
yielding masses, the snow becoming deeper and
deeper as we advanced. This would not have
been of so much consequence, if the upper crust
had been hard enough to bear us, but it was thin,
and the soft snow was below, so that we had to
raise our legs at every step as high as if we were
cUmbing a staircase, while our feet no sooner
touched the ground again, than they broke through
and sank into the snow.
My compafieros had told me in the morning
that we should reach hot water in the course of
the day, but not understanding what they meant,
I took no farther notice of it. Just after crossing
the second snow-slip, however, I saw rising steam
in the distance, and we reached a place where the
tops of some bushes sticking out of the snow,
showed a more luxuriant vegetation than farther
below. A tedious walk over the long plain of soft
snow, brought us to the bank of a stream, stiU the
H 2

148 FIVE years' journey
Tucunjado, the course of which we had followed
before, and here I was fuUy compensated for aU I
had undergone, in the reaUy wonderful sight that
met my eye.
Climbing over a layer of congealed snow,
hardened, I imagine, by the faUing steam of the
hot spring, I saw right before me three jets of
steaming water — the largest one several inches in
diameter — shooting from the high, steep bank of the
Uttle stream, through the massive unyielding rock,
and sending the steam high up into the clear
atmosphere. The sight was most beautiful : the steep bank
and the boUing hot water, which shot hissing
out, while flakes of snow lodged close around the
edge of it, was a strange spectacle in such a region
of frost.
High over the edge of the bank hung an im-
raense quantity of snow, like a monstrous feather
bed, just ready to slip down by its own weight.
The steam kept licking the lower parts of the
heap, while the sharp south-wester, which blew
through the dale, hardened the cmst and retained
the snow In its precarious position. The steam
itself congealed and was transformed into icicles,
which thus ser^'ed to prop the snow like so
ninny columns. Out of this self-formed winter
palace rose the steaming vapour, and the warm sun
shining upon it, changed it into myriads of glowing

round THE WORLD, 149
pearls, tinged with the most radiant and beautiful
colours of the rainbow.
I could with difficulty tear myself from this
lovely sight, and should have liked very much to
have slid down to the hot jet itself, to try its
temperature, but this was impossible. The steep
bank and the overhanging masses of ice and snow
did not allow of my getting nearer than I was,
unless I had spent many hours cutting a path, and
it was too dangerous to risk a long stay in such a
region, except from necessity.
In summer, the peons told me, visitors come
to this spot from the Chilean side ; and then,
indeed, a residence between those picturesque
mountain-peaks, in the very heart of the Cordilleras,
must be charming.
Leaving the hot spring, we climbed another
snow-glide, which must have come down very
recently, and which took us several hours to cross.
We then came to a more open part of the vaUey,
and found harder snow — a great advantage In
walking. Stepping along here at a brisk pace I
startled a fox, and found a large number of the tracks
of these animals coming out from a kind of hollow.
Sportsmen are the most cruel beings on the face
of this earth. A fox wiU not kill anything, except
for its own use ; but though the one I had started
could be of no use to me, and could do no harm to
any one, no sooner did I see it than my first thought

150 FIVE years' JOURNEY
was murder, and I waited with mischievous joy,
tUl it should come within shot.
My two companions, who seemed to feel inte
rested in the sport, remained stationary, and Master
Reynard came as carelessly up the slope as if he
were only out for a quiet walk, when, judging the
distance at about a hundred yards, just as he got
the scent of us, but appeared to be uncertain as
to the danger, I took a good and sure aim, and
puUed the trigger. The gun went off, but to my
utter astonishment the baU — one of the pointed
slug-balls — struck the snow, as I plainly saw, some
paces short of the fox ; and Reynard, discovering
that aU was not right, scampered off, leaving me
to fire again with as little effect as before. Having
no Idea what could be the matter with the gun,
I went to the place where the fox had stood, and
counting the steps in going, was surprised to find
that what I had thought about a hundred yards,
was really two hundred and sixty ! so deceptive was
the pure and transparent snow as to distance.
Indeed, on looking back, I saw that the spur
of the raountain behind, on which lay the Punta
del Vaca, appeared to be not farther off than
two or three miles, though I knew the distance
to be much greater. Then I reflected that if
the sight was misled In such a way by the thin
air, in judging the distance of objects so close,
what an enormous space must lie between the

ROUND THE WORLD. 151
mountain-ridges, which really looked so far apart,
and to what a height the mighty peaks must rise,
when they were so gigantic even in appearance.
This also explained to me another fact, which
hitherto I had not been able to comprehend. I
had crossed, as I have already raentioned, several
snow-glides which had shot down from the nearest
sides of the rock, and covered distances which I
now knew must be long, long mUes, whUe the
place on the rocks from which the snow had fallen
had seemed in comparison only a few hundred
yards in extent ; but the iUusion In this case was
clear, and I now felt indeed the immense greatness
of these mountains.
That evening we walked tiU nearly dark before
we came in sight of the next casucha, where we
Intended to camp, a .projecting rock having
screened it from view; but turning round this,
we saw the little place before us, and to our
great joy a bright fire blazing out of the dark
door-way. There was company then — human
beings in the snow besides ourselves, and we
should this night see other faces, hear other
voices 1 We stepped out as fast as we could,
and reaching the place just with dark, found
within the Chilean correo, who, having profited
by the fair wea,ther, was on his way to Mendoza.
The first questions, from both sides, were, of
course, after the road — how the snow was, whether

152 FIVE years' JOURNEY
hard or soft, and how many snow-glides were to
be encountered. The answers were satisfactory,
though principaUy for us, as we had only one bad
place to pass, and if the good weather lasted,
should find on the edge of the snow, on the Chi
lean side, a drove of mules, the drivers of which
had Intended to attempt crossing over with their
animals as an experiment; but having sent out
sorae persons to exaraine the raountains, and their
reports being unsatisfactory, they proposed to turn
back and wait for better weather. If we pushed
on, therefore, we raight yet find them in one of
the ChUean casuchas.
The correo congratulated us on having met with
such fine weather,and told us that he had been locked
up during this very winter in the last casucha we
had passed, a dreadful temporale howling through
the vaUeys, and fiUing them with snow, tUl they
had eaten nearly aU their provisions. In perfect
despair they at length broke out from the cold
waUs, which had protected their Uves several
weeks, as soon as the storm had expended the
greater part of Its fury, to reach the lower region ;
and It was fortunate for them they did so, for the
storm seemed only to have paused a little while,
and they had hardly passed the Punta del Vaca,
and left the snow behind them, when a new tor
nado commenced, driving the snow even down
to where they fled, and sometimes upon their

ROUND THE WORLD. 153
path. " And here we are," the old feUow continued,
" right in the very middle of it ; if we get one of
those cap-fuUs now we should be in a scrape."
But the weather remained fine, the gnomes of
the mountains were friendly to us, and the next
day, the 18th of July, we reached and crossed
the dividing ridge between two oceans — the high
est pass of the CordiUeras — though it was a
tedious job to climb up those steep, snow-covered
banks, a portion of which the sun had also com
menced thawing, softening the snow, and raaking
the ground slippery and unsafe under foot.
But there was one powerful consolation for all
these hardships, let them be as disagreeable as ever
they might — this was the last height ; once over this
ridge, and the worst was passed, each step bringing
us nearer to the lofty object we wished to obtain.
At length I almost reached the summit, climbing
with aU the strength left me, and was going to
sink in exhaustion, but should I rest once more
when so near the point I had aimed at reaching
the whole moming? No; setting my teeth, I
rushed up, and the next minute stood with a
feeUng it would be impossible to describe, upon
the backbone of a world. No mountain-ridge
any longer obscured ray gaze, and the eye saw
more than it was able to comprehend. Far, far
over there, the dim and misty horizon — the dark
mass of the Pacific Ocean, while close to our

1 54 FIVE years' JOURNEY
left, growing as it were from the very ridge upon
which I was standing, the Tupingato, the highest
peak of the ChUean Cordilleras, rose up between
five and six thousand feet above us. The pass
where we crossed is said to be thirteen thousand
feet high, whUe the Tupingato reaches eighteen
thousand feet above the sui-face of the ocean.
I wrapped my wooUen blanket around me, for
the wind blew sharply and coldly from the south
west, and throwing myself upon one of the mighty
rocks, which have been softened by the storms
of ages, and were now crumbUng beneath the
hand of time, my eye remained fixed a long,
long whUe — not on the picturesque mountains
of ChUi, not upon the beautiful panorama of all
those peaks and ridges that rose around me
and seemed a wUd ocean of gigantic waves, with
their sharp outline thrown out by the misty at
mosphere behind — no, but on those vast plains
in the far east, whose boundaries were my own
Atlantic Ocean ; for there, far, far away I had
left my home, and how or when should I behold
again all that I had left there ?
When I looked up again a large and powerful
condor, the giant vultm-e of these massive heights,
was soaring nearly within a stone's throw right above
me, striking the air with Its colossal wings, as
if It belonged to the grandeur of the scene, but
finding that the figure below it possessed Ufe and

ROUND THE WORLD. 155
action, it turned its head, slowly sweeping away
towards the sinking sun. I could have easily
reached it with a buUet, but I should have thought
it murder to shoot the bird at that moment.
But the sinking sun reminded me also of a
night's shelter; my peons had passed rae long
before, scrambUng down the steep snowy heights on
the other side, and the next casucha lay yet in
purple gloora far down between the rugged snow-
peaks, which looked up to me menacingly from
below — and what would I not have given to stay
another hour on this spot ; but there was no joking
with this very height, and afterwards I heard that
we had hit on the most fortunate moment to
cross it, for nearly always a perfect gale howls here
over the ridge, and. In fact, the highest part of the
mountain was swept as clean of snow as storm and
hurricane could do it — old Boreas keeps his draw
ing-room in first-rate order.
Now, then, to begin my descent ! and any one
who ever went down a steep hill after a tedious
day's march, wUl be able to judge what I felt, at
gliding and slipping down the CordiUeras, after
ha™g, without more than half-an-hour's rest,
toUed up to their summits the whole day. I had,
however, strained my nerves too much during
the last few days, and after an hour's march such
a peculiar kind of sickness overcame me that
I had to throw myself down upon the ground

156 FIVE years' journey
several times to rest and gain some strength, cool
ing my lips at the same time with handfuls of
snow. At such moments my head swam, and I felt
sick ; but there was no help for it, I had to go
on, for I could not stop in the snow, and I scrambled
up again after an attack, to continue my journey
with fresh vigour.
This hlU was tremendously steep, the whole
descent being a succession of uninterrupted leaps
frora rocks about three and four feet high, or gUd
ing down ravines sometiraes fifty or a hundred feet
long. We did not reach the first casucha tUl dark ;
but what a dreadful place to stop in ! The snow
reached up to the vei-y entrance of the little low
hut, which was inside as dirty as men and beasts,
during a number of years, could have made It ; and
to increase the beauties of the place, a mule brought
up here by the very muleteers, I beUeve, who had
been examining the path to see if they could cross
the mountains with their animals, had died right
before the door of the casucha — you had to step
over it if you wanted to enter the low and dark
room — and the powerful beak of sorae condor had
been tearing at it, as long as it had been warm, I
expect, for now even a sledge-hammer would have
made very little impression upon it. And we must
stay aU night here ? — could this be a habitation
for human beings ? But there was no choice left ;
the next casucha was a whole legua farther, and

round THE WORLD. 157
how would we have been able to pick our road
along the dangerous cliffs and down steep banks,
over the dazzling snow, in the dark ? No, we were
forced to stop in the disgusting place ; my only
consolation being now a cup of hot tea, or even a
hornful of caldo, I really did not care which ; so
I threw my blankets and things into the corner
that looked least dirty, though I hardly believe a
horse would have lain down in such a spot, and
caUed the peons to kindle a fire.
But even this comfort w^as not afforded me :
the rascals, that they might not be obliged to carry
the coals over the steep mountain-ridge, had burnt
every particle the previous night, and we were now
in the midst of snow without being able to kindle
the least fire even to boil some water — nothing
but the cold, dirty, stone-waUs, and the dead mule
lying before the door. There was a comfortable
home for a man ; but what good would grumbling
do ? so with a hearty curse upon the lazy fellows,
who were chewing in perfect self-contentment some
of the stone-hard charque, I swaUowed a mouthful
of it myself, took a dram out of a little bottle which
the Italian apothecary in Mendoza had filled for me
with some exceUent bitters, roUed myself up in my
blanket and poncho and threw myself on the cold
and damp ground.
Next morning I was up long before daylight.
There was one corafort in our situation, that we had

158 FIVE years' journey
not to wait in this dreadful hole for breakfast ; so
up I jumped, fastened the sheep-skin again over my
boots, rolled up my blanket arid threw it over my
shoulders, and wrapping the poncho around me,
and stepping over the carcass of the mule, I drew
a deep breath, for the cold but pure moming air
fanned my face, and my feet rested on the clean
snow — what a contrast with the hole I had just
left. But when I carae out into the mountains this
morning upon the path we had to foUow down the
gulches and steeps, I saw how dangerous, even
impossible. It would have been for us to travel last
night in the dark, when we came to places we
could hardly cross in broad daylight. The moun
tain-slopes were all steep and precipitous, covered,
of course, with many feet of snow and crusted by
the cold south-wester, which blew with bitter sharp
ness through the narrow chasms, with a thin sheet
of ice, over which a fine snow-dust, Uke a thin, icy
mist, was drifting, in low transparent clouds. We
had to travel along these cUffs and slopes, and one
place In particular really seemed as if Impossible to
cross. It was the steep slope of a real mountain,
for mountain high it rose to our left, whUe it went
at an angle of about sixty degrees far, far down to
a bluish, dark chasm. If the foot sUpped here, aU
escape was out of the question, for smooth as a
mirror, without the least bush, or shrub or even

round the world. 159
elevation, it sloped down to the deep valley, where
raost certainly hundreds of feet of drifted snow
would have buried the unhappy traveUer for ever.
It was also impossible to go round this place —
we had to face it ; and ray peons told me the old
correo had passed it also, though perhaps a little
higher up or farther below, which did not make the
least difference ; so I had to take out my large
bowie-knife, and going before, cut or hack with it
smaU holes in the snow, or rather ice, to put our
feet in. The peons foUowed slowly and carefuUy,
setting their feet with great attention exactly in my
tracks ; and so we had to advance at least a quarter
of a mUe. The bank was so steep, at the sarae time,
that when standing upright we could touch the
snow with our outstretched hands, each step en
dangering Ufe and limbs, but also diminishing the
danger ; and after we had passed this place, the
worst was over. We came to some other such
slopes, equally steep and dangerous perhaps, but
not so long ; and reaching the mountain-stream
again after about three hours' raarch, we had, at
least for a whUe, no more cliffs and chasms to
threaten us with destruction at the first false step.
With the first water we also reached a casucha,
which, on the ChUean side, are only one legua
apart, whUe the distance between them on the
eastern side of the CordUleras is sometiraes
nearly three leguas. The smaU springs, of which

160 FIVE years' journey
we had crossed and foUowed several that day,
coUected here again into a larger raountain-streara,
the Puente. Farther and farther we foUowed it
down into the deeper vaUey, which widened here,
and, in fact, already displayed sorae places free
from snow ; and which brought us, some time
in the afternoon, to the next casucha, and with it
to a hard and rocky path, upon which a smaU
troop of mules was camping. From here, as
I soon learned, the road was passable for mules,
though with some disagreeable places ; and glad
enough I was to find the mules were returning
that same evening to the low lands, because they
had tried to pass, but found it impossible. 1 made
a bargain with the leader of the troop to take me
and my things to Santa Rosa, the first Uttle place
in the vaUey, where I had to get horses again fi-om
my old vaquiano's father. But here we rested
first — here aU the threatened dangers of the Cor
diUeras, of snow-drifts and temporales, were past ;
Pampas and snow-locked mountains lay behind me ;
and with the most pleasant feeling in the world,
I threw myself here for the first time again,
except on the very top of the mountains, upon the
bare and naked ground, on which only a few
l)ladcs of wiry grass grew ; a hot cup of coffee
being a kind of recompense for past sorrows and
hardships. Down, down we went fi-om here, following the

round the world, 161
course of the Puente, which had become a large
and wild mountain-streara — and I had known it
as a chUd — took a slight rest towards evening
close to the first hut we reached, where a Chilean
had raade his home in one of the wildest, but
at the same time most picturesque raountain- '
gulches, and started just before dark again ; for
my companeros wanted to get to a good grassy
place, and have some food for their nearly-starved
mules. Here I tasted, for the first time, a genuine
ChUean dinner, consisting of a rather primitive
mess. Some coarse but very sweet wheat-flour
was put into a horn, scraped and kept clean,
water poured over it, and the mixture stirred up
with a little stick — and it was a luxury to have
even little sticks — into a thin drinkable mush.
I looked at the beverage or nourishment, which
ever I might caU it, at first rather suspiciously ;
but either my taste had been spoiled in the moun
tains, or else it was really good : it seemed most
excellent to me, and I emptied a whole horn.
An excellent onion, which grows in ChiU, with
some red pepper, completed my meal ; and after
dinner I was able to Ue down again under a tree,
were it ever so smaU, and upon the grass, were it
ever so thin ; it was tree and grass, and there was
a sweet sound even in the name of the things.
When we started again, however, our dangers

162 FIVE years' journey
or hardships were not aU passed — in fact, we
had not even left the snow — for we had to
cross several large masses, which not only caused
our passage to be very tedious, but also showed
that we might yet be overwhelmed by avalanches ;
¦ but this was nothing, on we went — even the last
ravine now lay behind us — and foUowing a nanow
and steep path in perfect darkness, where the
Puente foamed, as it seemed, beneath the feet
of our mules ; and though a single false step would
have hurled me down, a Ufeless corpse, upon the
sharp rocks of the vaUey, I felt so secure that
I even slept in the saddle.
In the night we stopped at sorae place — I do not
know where, and in fact cared less; it was pitch
dark — and without inquiring if there was a house
or habitation in the neighbourhood, I sUpped down
from the saddle, wrapped myself up in my blanket,
and slept on the very spot my foot had touched on
leaving the stirrup. Next morning, up with day
Ught again: it was a raw raorning. When I
awoke, the raule, ready saddled, was brought up
to me. I got up — from the mule upon the
ground, frora the ground upon the mule. It was
a miserable life ; but every minute I di-ew nearer
my place of destination, and ought not to grumble.
The wind carae up freezingly through the mountain-
gulch. I drew my poncho close around me, and
thought of the last night's dream — a dream of

ROUND THE WORLD, 163
home, of wife and child ; and the rougher, the
more unfriendly the outer world appeared to me,
the more I gave myself up to the sweet thought.
The morning was raw and cold ; a damp mist
was spread over the valley, hardly allowing us to
distinguish the path upon which we traveUed for
ten or fifteen paces ahead. Farther and farther
down Into the valley we rode ; and with half-closed
eyelids, I sate in my saddle with only sufficient
consciousness of the present to keep my balance
In the stirrups.
Dogs barked — I thought I heard the merry
laugh of chUdren's voices ; I looked up, and grasp
ing the reins of my mule, I reaUy did not know
the first moment if I was awake or still dreaming.
Had I reaUy come from out the iron frost only
yesterday, at times up to the waist in snow, or
cUmbing over icy heights, where neither tree nor
shrub broke the monotonous solitude of snow and
towering rock — and now ?
Right before rae I saw a peaceful cleanly cabin,
nearly hidden in the friendly shade of thick green
bushes. Close to the hut a perfect thicket of
dark-leafed orange-trees, with their golden fruit
peeping everywhere, out ; rose-trees covered with
budding flowers ; peach-trees loaded with their
soft sweet blossoms ; and wherever the astonished
eye turned, blooming bushes and shrubs, and the
sweet verdure of the fertUe slopes and valleys.

164 FIVE years' journey
Everything had changed — as if the wand of a
magician had stmck the ground, and melted
winter's icy power into blossom and waving fruit-
laden branches — as if I myself had gained new
power and life, I felt the warm spring-time gush
ing through my veins ; and shaking off every
thought of exhaustion or weakness, I dug my
spurs into my rather astonished mule, and gaUoped,
with joy and pleasure thrUUng in my heart, on
through the vaUey.
ChlU had opened her hospitable arms to receive
us — every inch of soU seemed cultivated — the
numerous mule-droves we met gave evidence of
the busy communication in these parts. Every
where oranges and blooming peach and apple-trees,
in whose shade nice and cleanly houses lay, greeted
our sight ; the fields and gardens were surrounded
by trimly-kept hedges or stone fences, and tbe
springs and water-streams, led to give moisture to
the more arid districts, revealed the industi-y of an
agricultural people. Every step showed more and
more that we had left that country where death
and signs of blood met the sight wherever the
weary eye turned, and where animal nourishment
made man the blood-thirsty being he showed
himself, whUe here mUder habits and mUder food
softened even the nature of the Inhabitants, and
spread peace and blessings around.
At raid-day we reached Santa Rosa, where 1 was

ROUND THE WORLD. 165
to get fresh horses. Here also the last peon,
whom I had taken with me, left me in charge of
my old guide's brother, who went with me to
Valparaiso to receive there the stipulated five
ounces, after delivering me in good condition at
the Puerto.
On the same evening, and now on the backs of
two Uvely horses, we passed the friendly little
town of San FeUpe, with its broad regular streets,
low-roofed houses, and enclosed gardens, its flowery
hedges and fruit-loaded orange groves. Even
before the magistrate's house stood two beautiful
palms, the first — and, in fact, the only ones — I saw
in ChUi, which endowed the whole scenery with a
warm tropical character ; the natives themselves
had something peculiar to distinguish them from
those of the neighbouring republic. They also wore
the poncho but much shorter and of course not
of the same bright red colours ; they also galloped
their horses, but not at such a break-neck speed as
the Argentines always do, not caring a straw if
the horse breaks down as soon as it reaches the
spot the rider wants to go to. The Chilean farmer
not unfrequently even trots, a thing I only saw on
the other side of the CordiUeras in Buenos Ayres
itself, where horsemen were not allowed to gallop.
Riding appointments also — saddle, spur and
bridle, but especially stirmp — are very different
frora the Argentine, The guacho of the Parapas

166 FIVE years' journey
uses the sraaUest stirrup imaginable, and very
frequently none at aU, having only a smaU piece of
wood or bone tied to the stirmp-leather, passing
between his two largest toes, which rest upon
a kind of knot or knob of the same character ;
but the ChUean stirrup, on the contrary, looks in
comparison to the other Uke the box of a waggon-
wheel — round, clumsy, and cut out of a single piece
of wood, with only a hoUow to put the foot in.
The spurs of the Chileans are something like the
Argentine in weight and shape, but the wheel is
about three and a half to four inches in diameter and
guarded with spikes close together, like the beams
of a painted sun ; while the Argentine spurs, with
only six single thorns or points, act Uke so raany
knives upon the sides of the poor horses. The
Chilean saddle is also covered sometimes with six
or eight sheep-skins, affording the rider, with the
high back and pommel, a tolerably secure but
rather clumsy seat.
We overtook a great many caravans to-day,
which looked peculiar enough with their singvUar
riding-gear, and the riders and even loads, for
many of thera were taking wine to town in leather
bags, prepared out of the hide of some animals, I
think principaUy goats.
That night we stayed in one of the Uttle ChUean
huts, but I found them far different from the
Argentine hovels; though very poor, there was a

ROUND THE WORLD. 167
great deal raore corafort in them, and no com
parison in cleanhness ; they had irameasurably the
advantage over all their eastern neighbours, very
few excepted. Next moming at daylight we were
up again ; a singular impatience possessed rae, a
kind of foreboding that I should miss my ship if
I did not hurry on. The whole day we passed,
sometiraes through weU-cultivated land, and on
approaching again the little raountain-stream
which had formed this vaUey, we entered a perfect
wilderness of pebbles. They were sometiraes of
two and three hundred pounds weight, which the
raad current had roUed down with it, and on flood
ing the bottoms threw the rocky seed aU over the
land, many a mUe wide. These waters must have
a dreadful force when they bring the melting snow
dovm from the mountains, sweeping along with
them everything that meets thera in their wUd
and reckless career.
The country itself was by no means such as I
had expected to find here ; with the exception of
some cactus, I saw hardly any vegetation, except
in the vaUeys, the hUls being undulating and
naked, like the giant waves of some old petrified
ocean, and overgrown with a thin crop of grass.
Every hiU we reached, I hoped to get 'in sight of
the Pacific, and every hUl only showed the reflec
tion of exactly such an one as we had just scaled.
We passed through a nice little town about

168 FIVE years' journey
mid-day — GuUlota, with fertUe fields and gardens,
and, as I everywhere saw, an Industrious popula
tion. But it became dark, and we had not yet
seen Valparaiso, nor the signs of a larger town
even, and we crossed hUl after hiU, our horses
being dead beat at last, and mine hardly able to
move. My guide was going to stop all night at
every hut we came to — he told rae the horses
could go no farther — but I had no rest ; if he
stopped, I told hira I should go on foot, but
Valparaiso I woiUd reach that night. And on we
traveUed again, leading the horses up hlU for their,
and down hUl for our accommodation. Now we
saw a bright light right before us, like a meteor —
what was that ? — the Ughthouse of El Puerto my
companero said, so we had at last reached the
neighbourhood of the sea ; but the sea itself was
invisible, the darkness could have been cut with a
knife. Next we came, as we saw sometimes when we
ran right against them, to some shrubs and thickets
which the road wound through — and how the horses
kept the road, I do not know ; the path also turned
downwards, some lights were visible, and we had
to cross now — and we must be near the shore, for I
could plaiflly hear the breakers — the sandy bed of
a deep water-course, very probably the same stream
I had foUowed from the top of tlic CordiUeras.
Dovvn our horses went into the water — I do not

round THE WORLD. 169
know how deep, in fact I did not care, I was per
fectly worn out, and only recollect I held up my
gun over my head, to keep that dry. On — on, I
thought, we should never reach Valparaiso, my
horse could no longer carry me, crossing the water
had done for it, and wet as I was, I had to lead it.
At last, we reached the outskirts of the port ; it
was past nine o'clock, the people had shut their
houses, and gone to bed, and a darkness enfolded
us, such as I had never seen before.
And what could I have done to-night with my
vessel ? Nothing at aU. But the ' TaUsman' could
not leave the harbour now, at least, till to-morrow
morning, and with daybreak I was sure to be on
the landing. So I let my guide go ahead, and
choose a house for us to stay in all night — what did
I care about the place, if I could only lie down and
go to sleep ? I was tired to death.

VOL. I.

170 FIVE years' journey

CHAPTER X.
VALPARAISO AND CHILI.
Do not ask me for a description of that night !
It was the conclusion of aU my hardships in ChiU,
it is true, but also as disgusting as any I had yet
passed. However, I shaU never forget " Donna
Beatriz," as she was caUed, puUing out of some
corner an old frying-pan, that had rested there, I
wIU not even guess how long. She was going to
fry some eggs, and discovering in it an old layer of
grease, slapped the pan without much ado upon
the fire, and put the eggs on top of the dissolving
fat. I saw aU this in a half-dream. In a kind of
stupor, and acted accordingly.
On inquiring here about the vessels in the har
bour, none of the ChUeans could give me any satis
factory answer ; but at daybreak next moming —
and I slept during the night in some corner upon
an old mat — I was up, and at the landing. A
great raany vessels lay in the bay, but they were

ROUND THE WORLD, 1 7 I
nearly aU too far off to distinguish, even to what
class they belonged. No breeze was stirring, how
ever, and if the ' TaUsman' had not left, I was
tolerably sure of getting on board ; there was not
much danger now of her saUing without me.
Hardly anybody seemed as yet stirring ; it was
Sunday, and I always hate to come to a strange
place on a Sunday morning — you can find nobody,
you can buy nothing, and even in a traveUer's dress
people look at you, and wonder where you corae
from ; for they have nothing else to do on that
day. And how much more so was this the case
with me to-day, for never in my life had my dress
been In a worse state than at present, and it had
been in very bad ones. Dear reader, I had been
twenty-four days in the saddle nearly at a stretch,
seventeen days a break-neck gallop nearly all the
tirae ; traveUing through the snow, clirabing and
sliding, was not the sort of thing to improve my
garments, and I had only that one suit with me —
yes, I might well say, I had had that one suit, for
to be candid, they no longer existed, except piece-
raeal ; even the stout leather of my high water-
boots had been rubbed through on the sides, and
at the sarae time there had been no possibUity of
getting ready-made clothing on the way, except
cherlpaws, and I could not walk in those clumsy
things. Clean Unen I had, of course, taken with me,
I 2

172 FIVE years' JOURNEY
but nothing else, not a spare stick in case of ne
cessity, my only safeguard being the long Argen
tine poncho, which covered all. And I looked
pleasant in it, scarlet of course being the pre
dominant colour, with a blood-red silk kerchief,
tied loosely over the poncho round ray neck,
Argentine fashion. My hat also rather the worse
for wear — in former times a fine, broad-brimmed
black felt sombrero — but the brim had been torn
off, or opened at least close to the head nearly all
round, by the continued flapping up and down,
whUe gaUoping, and set me off to the best ad
vantage.' Add to this the sunburnt face, hair and
beard not shorn — I forgot when ; and no wonder
the dogs barked at me, when they saw me come
down the street in my red and shining brightness.
There are a countless number of unowned dogs in
the streets of Valparaiso, and I reaUy do not know
how I should have kept them at bay much longer ;
for hearing the barking they came flocking In from
all the other streets, and I had in fact already drawn
my knife, when a y oung peon passing by, and seeing
my difficulty, stepped kindly up, and swung his
arm round his head, as if he was whirling a lasso.
The nearest caught the alarm, and they scampered
down the street alter two or three had commenced
running. The dogs in Valparaiso have all rather
a bad conscience, and fear the lasso extreraely ; so
those dogs which were coming down the street to

ROUND THE WORLD. l73
the rescue, hardly saw the others flying, before
they turned taU theraselves, without even asking
what had been the raatter.
I got rid of the dogs, but stUl it was most dis
agreeable to feel as if every one was staring at you
behind. But, away with despair ! even if I had
missed the ship, I should find ray trunk here, and
could soon have dry and whole clothing again.
I also had raoney at some merchant's In town, and
being of a disposition to take things lightly, I
walked down to the landing again, where I saw a
European-looking gentleman crossing the street ;
he looked at the same time like an American, and
was in fact the landlord of the Star Hotel, as
I afterwards found, and could give me all the in
formation I wanted.
" Did he know the ' Talisman' ? — Why, nearly all
the passengers on board had dined, and the captain
and supercargo stayed with him as long as they
were on shore."
" Had ? — so the ' Talisman' was gone !"
" Gone? Of course, yesterday afternoon, about
five o'clock. She was still in the harbour."
Yesterday afternoon, whUe I was toUing
over those never-ending monotonous hlUs, the
' Talisman' had left her anchorage. If it had
been daylight, I could not have helped seeing her
from the top of the last hUls, with aU saUs set,
beating out with a light northern breeze towards

174 FIVE years' journey
the west. The wind had been so contrary for any
ship to leave the harbour, that the ' Talisman' had
been the only one that tried It, tacking and tacking
tiU she got out, and once really aU but letting her
anchor drop again. Gone, and so short a time
before, that was disagreeable — but what matter ? I
now had a chance of looking round Valparaiso,
and becoming a Uttle better acquainted with ChUi,
tUl the next ship belonging to the same company,
the ' Reform,' came in, which had left Germany
shortly after the ' TaUsman,' and proceeded on her
voyage to California.
The firm with whom I was to find my things,
were Messrs. Lampe, MiUer, and Fehrmann. Mr.
Fehrmann was the only one who lived at this
time in Valparaiso ; and as aU the stores were
closed on Sunday, and I reaUy could not wait tUl
next day, I inquired his address and went to see him.
The only thing I dislUied was entering his house
in such a fix, and rather bashfuUy I stole along
the streets, down the long Almendral (and there
was no chance for rae to make a detour as only
one street ran along between the hiUs and the
coast) to Mr. Fehrmann's residence.
Fortunately he was at home, but just ready to
go out. I only met him at the entrance, and he
seemed rather astonished at being addressed by
such a person as myself In the German language —
and my trunk? — "I really do not know," he

ROUND THE WORLD, 175
answered ; and calling directly one of his young
men who lived in the same house, asked him if
the ' TaUsman' had left any trunk or luggage for
one of the passengers in the store or custora-house
— not a thing, in spite of the captain and the
supercargo's proraise, they had not landed the least
article for rae; and all I called my own in this part
of the world, all that I wanted in linen and
clothing, all that I needed to continue my journey
with only soraething like comfort, was on Its way
to blessed CaUfornia, going along at this raoraent,
who knew at how many knots an hour ?
There was most certainly no joke in the matter,
but I could not help myself, I had to laugh right
out when I heard the news ; and Mr. Fehrmann
also, to whom I raentioned ray narae, and gave
the outUnes of ray voyage in a few words, which
he had also heard spoken of by the supercargo,
laughed at first — and I would like to have seen
the raan who could have remained serious — but
offered rae at the same time, with the greatest and
most friendly hospitality, his house as a residence
during the time I should be obUged to stop at
Valparaiso, which I accepted as frankly as it was
offered, finding myself soon afterwards not merely
introduced into his house, but also into his family,
as if I had belonged to it frora earliest chUd
hood. But my clothing was in such a desperate state.

176 FIVE years' JOURNEY
that I had reaUy to bonow only the raost necessary
articles, before I could go round the town and buy
what I needed.
And so everything turned out weU, and next
raorning I felt perfectly reconciled with ray situa
tion ; I could now rest after my tedious joumey,
see new and interesting things, and continue my
voyage when the ' Reforra' came in from Bremen,
She was to have started about four weeks after
us, and not touch at Rio, but making a direct
passage to Valparaiso, take In provisions there, and
leave directly again for San Francisco.
Valparaiso, one of the most Important towns on
the Pacific Ocean, has been too often described for
me to weary the English reader with the repetition
of old and most certainly known accounts ; I wiU
give him only the outlines, and what I saw inte
resting in the place. He wUl find much, I hope,
that is amusing.
Chili is a fertile and in raany parts well-cultivated
land, exporting quantities of grain, flour, and
vegetables to foreign states, now principaUy to
California and Australia, the people being, for a
southern state at least, and without slave work,
industrious enough. But besides the fertUe soU,
Its mines are exceedingly rich, and the silver and
copper mines have yielded extraordinary profits.
The state also protects this branch of business, I
might say before all others. Thus, for instance,

ROUND THE WORLD. 177
the discoverer of a new mine, no raatter whose
land the ore may be found on, has the right of
possession over the place, and the value of it
cannot be fixed by the forraer owner, but the state
deterraines the price itself for the land, not ac
cording to the richness of the ore, but to that of
the soil itself, if the land were converted to agricul
tural purposes ; even more, if the discoverer of the
ore, in working his mine, requires wood and water,
and is prevented from obtaining them through the
other property of the former owner surrounding
him, the latter is obliged to furnish him with both,
at a price government fixes.
Government, at the same time, desires and
supports immigration of Europeans, principally
Germans for agriculture ; and during my residence
at Valparaiso several German families who wanted to
move over to Valdivia, and could not find a vessel
for that port, after waiting a good whUe at Valpa
raiso, were sent down by government in a little
man-of-war brig, the ' Condor' — passage free,
though they had to find their own provisions — to
the place of their destination.
The climate is most exceUent, as no part of the
country Ues in a tropical latitude ; the rainy season
has cool and pleasant nights, to give the blood
some rest and keep it frora being always in a
boIUng state. It agrees also very weU with Euro
peans, and those of ray countrymen I spoke to
I 3

178 FIVE years' journey
here — and nearly aU were from the most northern
parts of Germany, knew nothing at aU of sickness,
at least originating in the climate.
The town itself consists of two distinct parts —
the Spanish and European — I may almost say the
English part, for I believe there are more EngUsh
merchants in Valparaiso than other foreign houses,
though the Germans have also many large houses
here, and some of the best firms in Valparaiso are
German. The foreign part of the town is buUt
nearest to the water, and consists, in spite of the
earthquakes which not unfrequently attack this
part of the world, of a great many two or three
storied houses, whUe the ChUeans prefer lower
buildings. The foreign part has also nothing ex
traordinary in its character, you see houses
exactly like thera aU over the world, in aU parts
and ports ; but the ChUean part is so much more
interesting, and principally those little buUdings
which form a kind of suburb, running along the
steep hUls, and sometimes stuck up alongside a
perfect waU, just enough of the fore part resting
upon hard ground to give the one end of the
beam a footing, whUe the other end, not twelve
feet long, stands on higher posts, to keep it hori
zontal. The hiUs, cut up here, in fact, by a quantity
of steep gulches, caUed quebradas, are the most
unhandy places to buUd a town on imaginable ; but
the ChUeans do not care about that, build they

ROUND THE WORLD. 179
must, and where the banks are not really perpen
dicular, or even overhanging — ay, where they only
get a chance of shoving a beara in — there they
stick it, and there they have sorae house or
other. Valparaiso has been at aU times a busy place ;
but at present, with the gold excitement spread
ing over the world, and just on the very spot to
form a watering station for aU those vessels which
had weathered the dangerous Cape, it was per
fectly crowded with vessels ; and through the de
mand, provisions, and especiaUy fruit, rose to an
enormous price. Boarding and lodging also rose
proportionately, and EngUsh, American, French,
aud Italians did their best in erecting new hotels
and cafes. Just at the landing, the eye was greeted
by a rather uninviting California Chop-house, having
a large sign-board with giant letters. The Hole in
the WaU came next, also right In front of the
landing, and both of them kept by Americans.
The Golden Lion, a comraon drara-shop, also
tried to attract boats, by the sign stuck out to
wards the water. Then the Star Hotel, the Ship
Hotel, a new one, estabUshed by a Belgian, and
affording very good accommodations. Also a good
Spanish Hotel, the ChUean House, the European,
the Victoria Hotel, the H6tel de France — in short,
hotels wherever you looked, and making money
as fast as thev could take it in. The price for

180 FIVE years' journey
boarding and lodging was at that time one and a
half dollars per day.
But we wUl retum here again after awhUe, and
I should like to take the reader with me on a
short walk through town.
It is stUl very early yet, when we pass down the
broad street that leads towards the eastern part of
the city — the walk is cool and shady, and over the
garden walls fruit-laden orange-trees nod and shake
their rustling dew upon the paveraent. Paveraent !
what singular ornaraents are these in the side
walks ? Stars and crosses laid out with little round
pebbles and bones — what an odd idea, to pave
streets with bones ! — yes, dear reader, and espe
ciaUy when they are human bones. Those stars
and crosses are composed of the carpus and tarsus,
wrist and ankle-bones, of their former masters, the
Spaniards. They carried their hostility against
the conquered enemy so far, as even not to be
satisfied with having them dead, under ground,
but also kept some part of them above ground to
stamp their heel upon. A first-rate lesson this
though, for all severe masters, if they wiU only
profit by it, while there Is time.
The Chileans hated the Spaniards so much — ay,
even hate them now — that they wUl never permit
anybody to say they talk Spanish. " No, Senor,"
they answer, " ablamos casteUano."
But we wiU proceed : It is not our fault that

ROUND THE WORLD. 181
they here dishonour the bones of the dead — fana
ticism has caused it ; and Mephistopholes, whose
particular delight it is to confound belief and un
belief in this world, has caused that to be honoured
in one part of the little ant-hiU we call the earth,
which they trample under foot in the other.
We now reach the farther end of town. High
garden waUs alternate with low Spanish huts and
houses ; there are some Norfolk pines, extending
their slender and graceful branches over the high
stone fence, and not far from them a quantity of
little coffee-tables, spread with a white clean napkin.
Invite the guassos coming from the country to
take their frugal breakfast. What a blessing It
Is not to be tormented any longer by that dreadful
mate, though it is drunk here also, but by no
means to such an extent as on the other side of
the CordUleras.
What women are those we meet, in a coarse
black woollen dress, a cloth of the same stuff
thrown over their heads, so as only to leave a
part of the forehead and the eyes free, but whose
fingers, while holding the cloth together, reveal a
transparent whiteness, and sparkle with costly
rings — are they penitents ? I thought so at first ;
but I soon learnt this was the church dress of the
Sefioras and Sefioritas. The ladies had worn, as I
was told, only a Uttle whUe before, such an extra
ordinary display of jewels and other ornaments.

182 FIVE years' journey
silks and velvet, that the holy padres — and I honour
them for it — thought it necessary to stop such a
luxury In a place where they ought to have come
only to pray to their God, and not to show aU the
neighbours their finery ; and how many thousands
of our ladies in England, France, Germany, and,
in fact, through aU the civUized states of the world,
do exactly the very same thing, pretending not to
be able to do without their weekly or daUy wor
ship, though. In fact, only to have the opportunity
of displaying a new bonnet or dress. We should
aU be equal before God ; and as we pray, " lead
us not into temptation," we should also not lead
others into it, by kneeUng right before their very
eyes in some new finery, just brought home from
the dressmaker's or raUUner's. No, the black cloth
covers all this ; and the hearts that beat under
it, you may think, can have no other thoughts
but of their God. No, dear reader, you are mis
taken there ; many a rendezvous takes place even
beneath that black cover, even in that holy place ;
but dress cannot alter that, and even if they were
clothed in sackcloth, the heart would beat under it
StUl. A little farther on we raet a chain-gang — pri
soners of all cliraes and nations cleaning the street,
the dark scowl of the Chilean bravo by the side
of the open and even dai ing look of the gentleman
guasso, in his common poncho and dress, though

ROUND THE WORLD. 183
he wears fine linen. His hand had been rather too
quick in a quarrel at grasping the knife — his
memory was shorter than his patience; and he
must now suffer for it a short time, but in irons
with the rest, amidst felons and thieves of every
description. But he knows his time wiU soon ex
pire, and he may then gallop on his prancing
steed through the streets he is now forced to sweep
with chained hands.
Only a little farther on, the tiny water-course
comes foaming and gushing down the narrow
ravine from the hills. Look at that glittering and'
sparkling stuff at the bottom, like golden specks
strewn over a bed of sand. It Is only mica,
though many a gold-searching Californian has
been deceived by the brightness of the worthless
stuff, and carried bags of it with him, much to
the amusement of his companions, and very much
to his own discomfiture. But there is gold in
these hUls, notwithstanding, and after very heavy
rains, the peons wash gold even in the mouth of
the streams that pour through the streets of Val
paraiso, and are able to earn about half-a-doUar a
day at it.
But we must turn back. The streets become more
Uvely, and there by the canal they seem to have
even a horse-race ; but they are only training some
horses for the first leap at the bar. Let us stop here
a minute.

184 five years' journey
In ChUI they nearly always mn theu- horses very
short distances, even one or two hundred yards,
and the first leap — for the horse is trained not to
lose a single second after the signal is given — must
be. In most cases, decisive. The horses, therefore,
are taught to stand, when ready to start, with their
feet as close together as goats stand upon a smaU
rock, and when the signal for the horses to start is
given, the whole weight of the animals, like the
sinew on the bent bow, is thrown forward In readi
ness to aid the first leap.
The ChUean horse is a lively and active little
animal, and capable of far more exertion than you
raay think at first sight. The ChUean nearly
always gaUops, but not at such a wUd speed as the
Argentine ; he thinks more of horseflesh, and pays
raore attention to his animals than the former ; but
we should not say more, for the Argentine does
not attend to them at aU.
Nearly all the ChUeans carry the lasso on their
saddles, and have the same dexterity in using it
as their eastern neighbours. The children com
mence in their earUest youth practising with it,
and you can see nearly everywhere little boys run
ning about with thin lassos of twine, and catching
chickens or little dogs, even trying their skUl once
In a while on a larger one ; but this Is a rather
hazardous experiment, as the Chilean dogs, as soon
as they feci something round their necks — for they

round THE WORLD. 185
live day and night in the greatest fear of this in
strument — fly for their lives, not unfrequently carry
ing the Uttle daring, but now screaming boy with
them a long way through the street, tiU the line
breaks, or somebody else comes to the rescue.
Even the horse-police always carry the lasso on the
back part of their saddles, and they sometiraes
use thera also in broad daylight, if they want to
catch anybody.
There is a law in Valparaiso against galloping
through the streets, and a raost excellent law it is
too, for nobody would be safe a minute, otherwise,
frora being run over, whenever he turned a corner ;
but the strangers who came here, did not agree
with it at aU, especiaUy the Americans ; and besides
that, all seamen in particular fight hand and foot
against it. If they get on board of a horse, they
do not want to log two or three knots ; they must
also have, of course, a pair of those large Chilean
spurs, if they only mean to go a couple of mUes
on a pleasure trip, and therefore are in a continual
quarrel with the police — always ending, though,
to their disadvantage, sometimes with walking
home, and paying a fine besides. A vessel came in
not long before, from Baltimore, afid some of the
passengers, of course, must go right in the very
first hour to a Uvery stable (and you see the sign
boards with a horse and " livery stable" painted to
the right and left aU over the town) and each hire a

186 five years' journey
horse for a trip Into the interior. The man who
let the horses to them, acquainted them of course
with the laws, and warned thera not to gaUop so
long as they were in the streets ; but what did they
care ? the man only told them this, they fancied,
not to have his horses ridden hard, and digging
their spurs in, away they went. But they had
hardly passed the first comer, the stable-boy look
ing after thera with a grin — for he knew the con
sequences — when they heard the caU of the first
policeman. Three of the horses being used to this
cry, came suddenly to a dead halt, nearly throwing
two of their riders over their heads, and were far
too well satisfied with the law itself, to be induced,
either by whip or spur, to move a step, tUl the
police-officer came up, and had a chance of giving
the riders a fair warning ; but the fourth, a young,
lively, and rather wUd animal, with a good rider
upon its back, and the sharp wheel of the spur in
its side, never stopped, but did its utmost to get
out of harm's way as soon as possible.
The police-officer caUed again, and seeing it was
no use, also spurred his horse, and the chase began.
The American, a Green Mountain boy, who had
ridden raany a Saturday night, at a wilder speed
than this, perhaps, and not fearing these " Span-
joles," as he called them, was satisfied with having
such a good horse under him, and cared little
about the rest. On they went, the people getjting

round the world, 187
out of the way, and looking after the wUd, but not
uncommon chase, though rather astonished at seeing
a foreigner ride so well. But even the policeman
found out at last that he should not overtake him
tUl they got out of town, and not wishing to leave
his station so far, he gave a last warning and
loosened his lasso. On seeing that was not
obeyed, he whirled the dangerous weapon a couple
of times round his head, and while the noose
darted off, and his own animal reared back, the
astonished Green Mountain boy was suddenly
caught round the arms and jerked somewhere, he
did not know where, till he recovered from the
fall, and found himself, bruised all over, in the
hands of the police, and obliged to pay a certain
amount of dollars and reals for the pleasure.
Besides the horses, there are also cabs in town
for the accommodation of the public, much like
ours, but with their horses put in rather differ
ently. The off-horse runs in the same way, but
the other is only fastened to his saddle-girt, with
a strong piece of leather, and puUs at the same
iron ring that holds the end of the lasso.
As early as you may pass through the streets
of Valparaiso, you hear music — the sounds of the
guitar are sure to be alive in some house or other.
The ChUean is, at the same time, social before
every other nation ; and should I ever choose
another country for my home, after having seen

188 FIVE years' journey
nearly the whole world, it would be ChiU. Ame
ricans and EngUsh — as hospitable and kind-
hearted as they may be — are cold in their ex
terior: a stranger above all must be introduced
to them first, and even afterwards it seems a
very difficult thing for him to be upon a reaUy
friendly footing with anybody ; let them pay as
many visits as they wUl to their neighbour, they
wiU, with very few exceptions, always remain
strangers — they have not the gift for a really
social life.
It Is different with the ChUeans. If you come
amongst them a perfect stranger, without being
acquainted with a single one, without a letter of
introduction, in which state you would be among
English and Americans, but principaUy among
the former — If you did not need their imme
diate help ; and English and Americans wiU never
deny that — as if on a desert island In some
ocean — you may try on every side, but give it
up at last in despair. The Chilean, on the
contrary, as soon as he finds out you are a re
spectable man, comes himself to call on you,
and you are from the first minute on such a
footing In his house, as if you had been a visitor
for years.
A passenger afterwards came with the ' Reform,'
who intended to stay a longer time in Valparaiso,
and rented a Uttle room for himself, though he

ROUND the world. 189
could not even speak Spanish at that time pro
perly ; but he had only been a few days in his
lodgings, and his neighbours had heard he was
a perfect stranger and a gentleman, when they
sent over to him. Inviting him into their families,
and received and treated him with the greatest
kindness. But to return to the landing. What a crowd
there is round the place ! English sailors, from
a man-of-war, just returned from California, have
had a fight on the landing ; and hearing soldiers
coming down the street, and not wilUng to get
acquainted with the Chilean calabozo, they make
a rush to their boat, with which they have just
landed coals, to get off to their ship. Hundreds
of peons who were standing idUng upon the plaza,
to wait for work, and perhaps not over anxious to
get it, laughed at the hurry which the sailors, who
were just a minute before raving raad, displayed;
and Jack, not liking to be laughed at, but seeing
the multitude, and hearing the music of the ap
proaching soldiers, pushed out. The sailors had
hardly left the landing, while the peons were
flocking in swarms round the stairs, laughing at
them in their harmless way, when they found
in their long-boat pieces of the coal carried on
shore, and used them as a missile, astonishing
the natives not a little by throwing stones from
out of the sea, right amongst them, and hitting

190 FIVE years' journey
those which had least expected it. But while
aU of them wanted to have a throw, they did not
move forward with their boat, and the ChUeans,
rushed back to some heaps of pebbles opportunely
standing on the landing, and gathering them up in
their hats and ponchos, they returned to the fight,
and the sailors found, rather too late, that they
had stirred up a hornets' nest. Four of them
immediately caught up their oars, but one stout
feUow, the very picture of an old English tar, stood
up on one of the hindmost thwarts, and turned his
broad front daringly to the ChUeans, and as he
had no coals left to return the thickly-flying missUes,
he abused thera in the loudest and most insulting
language, caUIng them blackguards, &c., and now
and then — to give them a taste in their own
language — carachos and infernal Spanjoles.
A little midshipman was in the boat, when the
sailors rushed in and enjoyed the sport, as it
seemed, exceedingly, as long as the saUors only
threw from the boat, but was rather taken aback
when the peons returned It in such a liberal
manner. So, half-laughing, but also a Uttle careful
of his own person, he stationed himself just behind
the stout saUor, dodging whenever he saw a stone
coming, and rather pleased on the whole, as he
had such a good place to see the fun. The boat
had gained headway by this time, and would soon
have been out of stones' throw, when a sailor, dead

round the world, 191
drunk, as it seeraed, who had been forgotten on
the beach, pressed through the crowd on shore, and
seeing his boat gone, gave a loud cheer and juraped
right down frora the top of the landing-stairs into
the water. The boat had, of course, to wait for
hira, and the peons tried in the raeantime their
best to hit the sailor, who was still standing,
nearly unharmed, mocking and cursing them,
nobody noticing the swimmer till a cry turned
every eye upon him — the man was sinking.
Nearly dead drunk, he had hardly an idea which
direction he should take, and had also most certainly
so heavy a load on board already, that he sunk
and took in water. Once he came up, and sunk
again. The boat pulled back now as hard as it could,
and a couple of Chileans also pushed out to him
with another smaU boat from the stairs. All hos
tihties had ceased, and both boats met, when the
now perfectly unconscious seaman rose up, just
with his head above the water for the last time.
Four or five hands grasped him, and puUing him
into the boat, threw him into the bottom, and then
bending to their oars, they shot along swiftly to
wards the man-of-war.
Speaking of a midshipman, I cannot forget a
Uttle feUow of that species whom I met one day on
the beach outside town, I was coming from the
lighthouse, where I had been looking if I could see
anything of my expected vessel, and he was standing

192 FIVE years' journey
with his arms folded, fondly observing a splendid
man-of-war steamer, which was stationed here in
the bay. The young gentleman might have been
at the utmost fourteen years of age. I stopped
not far from him, and also took a look over the
bay ; and he, seeing my eye turned towards his own
vessel, I fancy, broke out admiringly, and said, half-
turning to me, as if there had been no other vessel
in the bay :
" Isn't she a noble-looking craft ? Did you ever
see her equal ?"
" The steamer, you mean ? Yes, she is a beau
tiful vessel," I answered. " Where is she bound for ?"
" Bound for ?" I shaU never forget the look he
gave me, " bound for ? why Sir, she is a man-of-
war steamer."
Just at this time the ChUeans held a kind of eve
to their September festivities, in honour of obtain
ing their independence. On a free and open plain
upon the hiUs, near the lighthouse, on a sunny day in
August, tents were pitched as If a fair was going
to be held, and crowds of people flocked up on
the heights to see the mUitla-artUlery exercise.
The blue, red, and white Chilean flag, with the two
rearing guanakas, fluttered in the fresh breeze,
and everywhere around smaU family parties were
camping, whUe an unintermpted Une of people was
still moving up the small and steep path which led
in a zig-zag course towards the top of the hiU.

round the world. 193
The militia raarched and handled their guns, aU
drawn by hand, very weU indeed, and the populace
crowded round the drinking-tents, turning some
times to look at the soldiers exercise, sometimes to
watch the white saUs on the horizon, as they came
nearer, with the fresh southern breeze; for the
place aUowed a free view over the wide Pacific
Ocean to the south, and west, and north, and the
white breakers far below on the dark, slimy
reefs. Right between the groups walking up and down,
or strewn over the ground, even into the very tents,
amongst the drinking and eating multitude, riders
galloped, as If their horses had softly-cushioned feet
and not hard hoofs, ready to play the very mischief
with any corn they might light upon. Now they
stop near a group, laughing and drinking, the
horse looking up into the eyes of his master's
friends as if it knew every one of them, and so It
did, I have not the least doubt.
Long cavalcades of ladies and gentlemen, the
forraer nearly aU clothed in English riding-habits,
but often also in that of the guasso sefioritas, with
their common frock and a short embroided poncho
thrown over their dress, and very frequently attended
by officers of the English army, galloped up the
hiU, foUowing the broad, smooth road towards the
lighthouse, or stopping opposite the marching and
manoeuvring militia.
vol. I. K

194 FIVE years' journey
In the midst of this scene, there were raen,
however, whose attention could not be attracted
either by the deep, blue, sunUt-sea, by the exercising
artiUery, or even by the sparkling eyes of the fair
ChUean girls — and I reaUy beUeve Valparaiso has
received Its narae after thera — these men were the
gamblers, who squatted round a poncho, stretched
out upon the green sward, watched their dice
and cards, not caring a straw for nature or
nature's beauties, as long as they could not ex
change thera for dollars or ounces. Often, too, a
merry guasso, whose spuits had been raised by the
last glasses of strong Mendoza wine, would gaUop
right up into the very centre of the players, the
horse knowing weU enough how to act on such
occasions, being very careful before aU other things
not to step upon any body's toes, pushing aside the
surrounding multitude with Its nose, and afterwards
putting its four feet right upon the poncho, whUe
the guasso himself threw down his doUar, or even
his half-ounce upon some favourite card, watching
the game beneath him at the same time with his
left elbow upon the porarael of his saddle, and his
right hand supported upon his right knee, with a
half-cunning, half-smiUng eve.
But we are losing too much time up here, it is
getting late, and we want to clamber down the
quebradas, and take a peep into this wUd part of
the town.

round the world. 195
^ow dangerously these huts hang upon the steep
slopes of the hiUs ? if a good earthquake were to
shake these posts again together, and throw one
hut into the chimney of the other, or if a fire were
to rage along these dry spars and rafters, playing
along on the banks, and everywhere finding com
bustibles for its greedy tongue — the idea alone is
dreadful ; and, as I ara told, a fire has raged since
that time, at least in a part of this quarter, clearing
the slopes of habitations and sending the burning
beams hissing into the nanow raountain gulch
below. This part of the town seems, however, to be in
rather bad repute — and not without cause. Here
are the most frequented, and in fact only haunts
of the saUors, who have given the different sum
mits of the quebradas the significant appeUations
of fore and maintop, &c. But you had better take
care how you enter these narrow streets, that look
Uke mountain-passes, after dark, or you might get
better acquainted with the wUd Ufe of Valparaiso
than you ever had a wish to.
Drunken sea or landsmen — the difference, as it
seems, disappearing at this altitude — press you in
their rough benevolence to drink with them ; and
quarrels and jealousy have already caused many a
blade to be drawn, and coloured it with the warm
heart's-blood of the victim. If a murder is com
mitted, every door is directly closed, the persons in
K 2

196 FIVE years' journey
the streets glide up the steep and dark quebradas
to escape the law and its disagreeable consequences,
and the murderer takes a walk to the sea-shore to
wash off the signs of his guUt, perhaps the re
membrance of it also, with the blood of his victim,
while the police-officers take up the wounded raan
to have hira looked to, or if he is dead, to bury the
corpse — perhaps that very night.
Night sets in fast now ; what a dreadful noise
they are making over there, in the lighted-up
rooras, just opposite the foretop, and in a few
houses farther down, the roofs of which, though,
lie far below the level upon which the former house
stands — guitars and harps, or some such instru
ment, and tambourlns, and knocking against boards
and planks as if tables and benches took part in
the wild concert. I pressed into the crowded room,
and a perfect steam of tobacco, aqua-ardiente, and
who knows what other vapours, nearly drove me
back again. There had also been a fight ; on a
bench next the door lay the body of an English
sailor, seemingly lifeless, most certainly senseless,
his features blue and swoUen, and the blood
streaming down frora his face, whUe some of his
comrades were emptying his pockets of watch and
money, for fear of the company, and afterwards
left him to his fate.
A large ring was formed, and saUors from
English and Chilean men-of-war were dancing

ROUND THE WORLD. 197
with the wild girls of this region. They seemed
to perform a kind of quadrUle, but there was no
order In the whole, the couples puUing here and
there, and running against one another in their '
mad revelry.
A wild peculiar cry, like a scream, sounded
through the room ; a tall, sunburnt fellow, a guasso
as it seemed, of the better class, not frequently
seen in this part of the town, jumped into the ring,
and the music stopped ; the dancers stepped back
upon the crowd, and the ChUean caUed to the
musicians In a clear manly voice for a samacueca.
The next minute they struck up the tune, but
it was a national dance, and three or four other
guitars directly joined in, whUe the young guasso
threw off his poncho and hat, and stood awaiting
his lady. He was a splendid specimen of a South
American, and his eyes sparkled and glistened,
when the ring parted opposite to him, and a reaUy
beautiful, tall and fair-haired girl, with a wUd
deceitful look in her soft eyes, stepped out, waving
a white kerchief in her hand.
The samacueca is the national dance of the
Chileans — the fandango of their Spanish ancestors,
and always performed by a young raan and woman
— the couple move up to one another, waving and
flirting with their kerchiefs, approaching and re
turning, passing each other, sometimes side by
,5ide, sometimes under the lifted arm, but always

198 FIVE years' journey
without touching. The moveraents of the pair
were really graceful, and the spectators shouted
and screamed in pure delight. The guitar players
made at every vibration of the right hand a fuU
sweep across the strings, singing at the same time
a wUd love song, at the highest pitch of their
voices, and also gained the accompaniment of sorae
girls, who darted towards thera, and beat time,
as if the noise was not half mad enough yet, upon
the sounding boards of the instruments.
But away — away — the place may interest you
for a few minutes, but it is too disgusting to stay
longer, and we wiU clamber again down the
steep quebrada, and reach the lower parts of the
town. I went to the theatre the same night, and the
house was crowded. There was a Uttle operetta
first, the tenor had a fine, beautiful voice, and was
applauded very much ; and after this a comedy
was performed, which principaUy interested the
French part of the audience — and I believe half
were French that evening. Not long before,
the French ship ' Edouard' from Havre, had en
tered the harbour, but was kept at Valparaiso
sorae tirae by difficulties that arose between captain
and passengers. On board this ship, was the bUnd
poet, Arago, who intended to go to California,
but altered his mind afterwaids, and did not go
fai-ther. He had written this comedy during his

ROUND THE WORLD. 199
stay here to respond to the wishes of a great
many of his countrymen in the town. French
comedians had also come in the ' Edouard,' but
there was a difficulty in the representation:
part of it had to be performed by French, part
of it by Spanish actors and actresses, none of
them understanding both languages. But there
is a help for everything, so the French actors per
formed their part in French, the Spanish theirs
in then- own language, and all went well. The
French were raving raad that evening, and I
reaUy do not know how many pairs of white kid
gloves they burst during that one half hour, but
there was a continual clapping of hands, and the
poet, an old sUver-haired and venerable man, was
loudly caUed for at the end. He was sitting in
a box close to the stage, between two young ladies
in white, and rose up between them to speak a
few words of thanks in his own language.
The French seemed to consider the whole as
a kind of national triumph, and went off, like
rockets, in every direction.
The theatre at Valparaiso is a lofty and well-
finished buUding, and boasts an exceedingly good
orchestra. The Chileans, like all the southern
nations, are very fond of music, and have an ear
for it as well,
I witnessed this sarae night a raost singular
custom among the native South Americans, which

200 FIVE years' journey
raade a deep irapression upon me. On returning
horae rather late, after accorapanying some captains
of my acquaintance to the landing where their
boat was waiting for them, I passed a low-roofed
house, in whose weU-lit room music and dancing
were going on. I tried to get a look through
the curtained window, but did not succeed,
and was just pa.ssing on when the door opened,
and two men carae out. A third one vvas just
going to shut the door again when he saw me, and
addressing me, asked me in the most friendly way
to come in and be welcome. Always ready to
see what I could wherever I got a chance, I fol
lowed on this kind invitation, and found myself the
next minute In a perfect flood of light, but in a
very smaU room, crowded with people.
Taking in the whole at the first glance, the roora
seemed rather poorly furnished, with white-washed
walls, only here and there ornamented with small
and coloured pictures of saints and martyrs. The
tables and chairs were made of pine-wood — the
latter with cane bottoms ; and one corner of the
room, and a great part of the whole space, in fact,
was taken up by a large bed covered with flowered
curtains. Instead of a mosquito net ; but the cur
tains thrown back at present to afford roora for
those guests who would not dance themselves.
Aqua-ardiente and dulces were handed round ;
while aU, men and women, the dancers excepted,

ROUND THE WORLD. 201
smoked their cigarillos. But the raost reraarkable
thing In the room seeraed to me a large kind
of scaffold, which occupied the other corner oppo
site the bed, consisting of a Ught frame-work,
ornamented all over with artificial flowers, Uttle
pictures of saints, and a quantity of smaU Ughted
wax-candles. On the top of it, a most extraor-
dinarUy well-made wax-figure of a little chUd was
seated on a low wooden chair, dressed in a snow-
white Uttle frock ; the eyes were closed, the pale
cheeks tinged by a soft rosy hue, and the whole
figure perfectly strewn with flowers. It was so
deceptive, that when I drew near at first, I thought
it a real chUd, whUe a young woman below
it, pale, and with tears in her eyes, might very
weU have been the mother. But that was most
certainly a mistake ; for at this moment one of the
men stepped up to her, and invited her to the dance,
and a few minutes afterwards she was one of the
merriest in the crowd.
But it must reaUy be a child — no sculptor could
have formed that Uttle face so exquisitely ; and
now one light went out, close to the little head,
and the cheek lost its rosy hue. My neighbours
at last remarked the attention with which I looked
upon the figure or child, whichever it was ; and
the nearest one informed me, as far as I could
understand him, that the Uttle thing up there was
reaUy the chUd of the woman with- the pale face,
K 3

202 FIVE years' JOURNEY
who was dancing just then so merrily ; the whole
festivity taking place, in fact, only on account of
that Uttle angel.
I shook my head doubtfully; and my neigh
bour, to convince me, took my arm and led me
to the frame, where I had to step upon the chair
and nearest table, and touch the cheek and hand of
the child.
It was a corpse ! And the mother, seeing I had
doubted it, but was now convinced, came up to
me, and smUIngly told me it had been her
chUd, and was now a Uttle angel in heaven.
The guitars and cacaes commenced wUdly again,
and she had to return to the dance.
I left the house as in a dream, but afterwards
heard the explanation of this ceremony. If a
little chUd, I beUeve up to four years of age, dies
in ChUi, it is thought to go straight to heaven and
become a Uttle angel ; the mother being prouder of
that — before the eyes of the world, at least — than
if she had reared her child to happy man or
womanhood. The Uttle corpse Is exhibited then,
as I had seen it ; and they often continue dancing
and singing around it tiU It displays signs of putre
faction. But the mother, whatever the feelings of
her heart may be, must laugh, and sing, and
dance ; she dare not give way to any selfish wishes,
for is not the happiness of her chUd secured?
Poor mother 1

ROUND THE WORLD. 203
The ChUeans have other singular fashions with
their burials. Next raorning I went up to the grave
yard, which is on the very steep, abrupt hUl, under
which the town is buUt, and the quebradas running
up to it, it overlooks the place with the whole bay,
and coraraands an unbounded prospect seawards.
A little pavUion is raised on the very edge of the
cliff, and you can enjoy the most beautiful view
from the habitation of the dead; and raany an
hour I dreamed away up there, surrounded by
putrefaction in every sense of the word.
I like to visit burial-grounds ; I find an ineffable
charm in walking about between the flat, low
humraocks under which the quiet dead lie, with
clasped hands, in their narrow beds, like withered
leaves in an album, the short inscription upon
them marking name and date of the leaf. And
how I love to see the sweet flowers keeping watch
over the sleeping ! Loving hands planted them
there, and they shake their dew and waft their soft
odour over the tombs !
There were some beautiful monuraents In the
Roman Catholic Cemetery, the most beautiful of
all being that of an EngUsh famUy of the narae
of Waddington, and another of the Gonzales, cut
in Italy out of Cararra marble, to cover the dead
on the shores of the Pacific Ocean. But I do
not like monuments ; they press too heavUy upon
the poor departed — they Ue too impenetrably be-

204 FIVE years' journey
tween thera and the flowers, which can creep over
the stone, but no more whisper their sweet loving
words to the sleepers beneath. My last resting-
place I should like very different. I should wish
to be burled In the forest, in my own green woods ;
and the tree whose roots twined around me, should
drop its dew upon the lowly grave to water my
flowers, and give shelter to the birds which whis
pered their sweet songs over the departed ; but
no hard and heavy stone upon the grave — the
earth presses heavUy enough upon us, when we
have to bid fareweU to aU that was so dear and
beloved upon it !
Just behind the splendid monument of the
Gonzales' famUy stood a high, singularly-shaped
buUding ; it reaUy looked like an old whitewashed
watch-tower, without door or window, about
eighteen feet high, and perhaps five or six in
diameter, with a kind of bird-cage iron network
over It. The young man who had offered to be
my guide up here, told me this was the bone-
house, where the bones were thrown in when they
cleaned an old pit 1
Pit ! did they hxiry their dead here in pits ?
I should soon learn. He led me to a hole, as
I may weU call it, in the lower part of the ceme
tery, not twenty steps from the very pavIUon
which offers a view over the animated and
beautiful sceneiy below. It was about ten feet

ROUND THE WORLD, 205
deep, sixteen or eighteen feet long, and perhaps
ten feet wide, and seemed at first sight to be
empty; but a shudder seized upon rae, when a
second look convinced me of the dreadful reality.
The pit was fuU of corpses: on all sides they
lay, stretched out here without coffin or cover,
with only a few spadefiUs of sand thrown over
them ; here a leg stuck out from the horrible
mass, there a hand or an arm ; and fresh corpses
were thrown on top, and formed only another
layer, tUl the hole was filled, and another one had
to be opened for a new ghostly population ; but
the old one is left open, without a cover to keep off
rain or sunshine, till it is filled.
They have at the same time the singular custom
of burying their dead — if you call it burying —
at twelve o'clock at night. With the twelfth
stroke of the clock, the coffin or corpse-bearers,
if the dead are laid in this hole, and are carried
out in an open kind of box, leave the house, and
walk up in as large a body as circumstances admit,
each bearing a lantern, to the burial-ground, bury
ing the dead, if they have money enough to pay
for a single grave (twenty dollars, I believe), or
laying thera down in that hole — ay, throwing
them down from above, if they have not hands
enough to carry or lift them down — one man
foUowing afterwards on a ladder, which is let down
into the pit, to stretch the body out, not for the

206 FIVE years' journey
sake of the dead, but that it may occupy as little
room as possible. I witnessed this proceeding
several times, and shaU never forget the impression
it raade upon me.
Right opposite the Roman Catholic burial-
ground, there is also a Protestant burial-place, but
without this dreadful pit. Simple stones or wooden
crosses stand at the head of the dead, and no such
dreadful spot — dreadful, though it have for its
background the blue Pacific Ocean and the snow-
decked CordiUeras — sickens the heart of the be
holder. A great many saUors especiaUy lie buried here,
and I noticed some humorous verses upon some of
the graves. For instance, the inscription on Isaac
TickeU's last lodgings, of H, M. ship ' President,'
ran thus :
" Shipmates, all my cruise is up.
My body's moored at rest,
My soul is — where ? — aloft, of course,
Rejoicing with the blest !"'
On going home at night, after visiting the
burial-grounds, I was astonished at finduig the
different watchraen whistle whenever I passed one.
At first I thought they saw something suspicious
about rae, but I soon found it was a rule with aU
nocturnal ramblers. Wherever a person passed
through a street, the signal, a shrUl whistle, was

round the world, 207
given by the nearest watchman ; the next knew
through it that somebody was about, who ought to
have been in his bed by this time, and kept a
good look-out for him : he raost certainly could
not hide, without being missed. The police in Valpa
raiso is reaUy the best I ever saw aU over the world,
and far better than our own German watchmen, who
most frequently sleep at night from one hour to
another, merely bawling, as soon as they open their
eyes, the hour, and blowing horns or springing
rattles, to awaken aU those who have not yet heard
they are awake. Having made the greatest noise
they possibly can, and given warning by it to the
thieves about that they must keep quiet a few
minutes longer, they squat down again soraewhere,
to be out of harm's way.
The calabozo was a singular place, which I
visited with one of the German captains, who had
aU his crew locked up there. The saUors had refused
to work as long as their mate was on board, and the
captain had them locked up to consider the thing
over again. He asked me to go down with hira,
for he wanted to start in a few days, and was
going to see if the raen had raade up their rainds
to be reasonable,
I never saw such a prison in ray Ufe, In an
open court-yard stood a quantity of waggons — a
kind of caravan, Uke those in which wild beasts are
carried araong us to fairs and markets — waggons

208 FIVE years' journey
about twenty-five feet long, and eight or nine wide,
open aU round, but guarded strongly by thick iron
bars ; and in one of these, really like newly-caught
animals, the poor sailors were sitting, the whole
crew in the one box. But they would not leave
the place to go on board again, and declared they
would stick to what they had first said. The
captain had to take thera down to the landing in
the waggon, and carry them on board his vessel
with the assistance of the police; he afterwards
reached San Francisco with them, but, of course,
they ran away there the first day.
I had now been at Valparaiso fuUy three weeks,
waiting for the ' Reform' to come in ; and though
I had every possible cause to be satisfied with my
situation, as I lived in Mr. Fehrmann's famUy —
he was married to a young ChUean lady — as if I
had been in my own home, stiU there is never any
satisfaction if a man Is waiting for anything ; im
patience wiU be always the predominant feeUng,
and a restlessness that wUl not let you pass your
time as you ought to do. Besides this, 1 could not
leave the town, for there were always ships in sight,
and each of them might be the ' Reform,' whUe 1
had no idea how long she would stop here when
she really arrived, perhaps only a day or two,
and I dared not leave the harbour, for fear of
missing her.
At last, she arrived one fine Sunday morning.

ROUND THE WORLD, 209
and when I went on board, expecting to hear of
her starting again on the morrow or next day,
the captain told me, he did not know If the ship
ever would leave the harbour, at least with these
passengers, for they had tried to take his life
and he was going to have the case tried. The
passengers for their part said, that they were
going to sue hira for treating thera badly, and in
sulting them, principally a lady on board, and
trying to starve them on the voyage. In fact,
things seemed to be in a pretty mess on board.
But matters soon cooled down ; the Russian
consvd (an English gentleman in town, I have for
gotten his name), as the ' Reform,' sailed under
Russian colours, had them all a couple of times
before him ; the captain agreed to lay In sorae
fresh provisions, the passengers were warned to
behave theraselves, and deliver up all the arms
they had in their possession. And eight days
afterwards we sailed, for the quarrel lasted so long ;
and I believe it would have lasted even longer,
had not those who had had the most to say, been
the first to run short of money, and having no
doUars left to spend, they now wanted to get away
from here as soon as possible.
Our passage to California was in general a good
one ; we ran out to the west from the first start,
expecting the north-west winds afterwards, which
were said to prevaU in the higher latitudes, but

210 FIVE years' journey
north and north-north-east winds instead set in,
and being carried by these farther westward than
we had expected, we were taken a Uttle out of our
course. Higher up, the breeze, however, becarae
more favourable, and we entered, after beating for
about three days off and on the Californian coast,
the longed-for entrance of the Bay of San Francisco,
the so-called " golden gate of California,"

ROUND THE WORLD, 2 1 1

CALIFORNIA. CHAPTER I,
SAN FRANCISCO,
With my passage through the Golden Gate, a
perfectly new phase of my life commenced; but
instead of giving such an important step a serious
thought, lest we might jump head over heels into
this new chaos, to which history never yet had
furnished a paraUel — though none of us would have
been the worse for reflection, none of us thought
of such a thing. Each minute produced a new
and ever-varying picture, which rose, as it seemed,
from the ground around us, and we felt as men
might, who have sat for long months in prisons
and then stepped suddenly into the free and dazzUng
light of the sun — it was a very natural thing that
we should try first to accustom our eyes to the
strange light, aU the rest would come in regular
succession.

212 FIVE years' JOURNEY
The Golden Gate is reaUy a splendid entrance
to such a bay as San Francisco ; it bears some
resemblance to the heads of Port Jackson, except
that the mountains are higher here, and the coun
try looked even wilder ; but the English reader has
had descriptions enough about it, and I should
much prefer taking him back to our own ship,
to commence with me the new, and if wearisome,
raost certainly wUd and interesting Ufe.
The passengers had crowded on the fore part of
the vessel, and we looked first for tents and huts
along the shore, and nuraerous herds of cattle and
horses gladdened our eyes — such things look weU
after a long voyage.
" There is a tent," the cry suddenly rose —
" there, close to those little dark bushes ; and over
there again — there is a quantity of them ; that
must be a town," and with such acclamations the
attention of the new gold diggers was caUed now
to one, now to the other shore ; and an hour later
a fresh breeze, and the extraordlnarUy strong tide
that flows here, carried us speedily up into the bay
and towards the hill, on whose brow the first huts
of San Francisco Itself already became visible.
" But I can't see anybody washing," some disap
pointed voice cried from the forecastle, " donner-
wetter 1 is there any room left on shore." The good
man seemed to fear he would be crowded here on
the hlUs.

ROUND THE WORLD. 213
" There are diggers — there they are washing !"
another suddenly cried, and with lightning speed
this cry was caught up by flfty other voices ; the
men seemed perfectly happy at having already
found gold-diggers on shore and with them a
kind of assurance of the reality of the thing, till
we drew a little nearer the spot, and found in the
sppposed gold-hunters a couple of quiet cows,
which had been looking for grass instead of gold
in the smaU vaUey.
But San Francisco itself now attracted aU our
glances. There to the right, on that flat and
naked hlU more and more tents and low wooden
buildings became visible, the hill itself yet conceal
ing the greatest part, and now — mast on mast — a
perfect forest of them opened at once to our sight.
Ship after ship, forming a perfect town upon the
water, fiUed the Inner bay, and hundreds of Uttle
boats and small sailing craft were darting every
where over the yet unoccupied places. With this,
the tents and houses — riders appearing on the tops
of the hUls — the more widely spreading town — the
eye found no time to take in all at once the strange
novelty which surrounded us, and we stood a long
while perfectly bewUdered, before single objects in
our iraraediate neighbourhood obtained their right
ful share of attention.
Captain Meyer of the ' Talisraan ' pulled out to
us from his own ship, which now lay in sight of

214 FIVE years' JOURNEY
us, and a few minutes afterwards the heavy anchor
rattled and thundered down to the golden bottom.
And CaUfornia ? I reaUy do not know where
to begin. It seeraed as If the old tales of the
Thousand and One Nights had become true, and an
indefinite number of genii with their golden
bowls full of diaraonds and other valuables, must
spring out directly, from the clayey bottom, and
offer their treasures to us. People spoke here of
gold, as if it was only comraon dust, and the price
asked and paid for everything proved it at least
partly tme.
Only to go on shore, a distance of perhaps one
hundred yards, we had to pay one doUar apiece,
and everything else was in proportion. The town
itself, spreading out over a wide area of ground,
consisted of hardly anything but low huts and
tents. Freraont's Hotel, a smaU two-storied frarae
house — which by the bye I never saw inhabited —
towered Uke a palace araong its low neighbours,
and these confused habitations were scattered in
wUd disorder aU over the place, facing the most
favourable spot of gi-ound, only respecting those
roads, which had been raarked out for public
streets. The beautiful weather, as hardly any rain
faUs throughout the suraraer season, had encouraged
people to take nearly anything of woven or spun
manufacture to set up a house, more to get a
partition frora the street, than for any other

ROUND THE WORLD. 215
purpose. Houses, if I may give them that name,
were raised on the Ughtest possible frames, even
basket-work, covered or stretched over with the
lightest possible calico ; and colours ? what a variety
caught the eye, on looking down such a street —
the blue-flowered cotton had not been sufficient for
the fore-part of the house, so a red square piece
had been added to it with immense stitches, while
perhaps a bright yeUow pattern had served to cover,
together with a striped green piece, the hinder
parts of the waU, and complete the roof. Many
of the huts or tents had at the same tirae a sign
board stuck before them — for the house itself could
never have supported it — as large as the front
itself, and covered with immense letters, informing
the public that the inhabitant of this odd Uttle
habitation had a store for the sale of nearly every
thing imaginable, and at the sarae tirae was not
improbably a doctor or dentist. The sign-board
had, of course, been painted in the States, and
brought out here to astonish the natives.
But the new-comers were far more interesting
stiU, and I soon divided those I saw sauntering or
hurrying through, and in the streets, into three
different and very distinct classes. The first of
these were those who already lived here or were
accustomed to the strange objects around thera.
The raost of thera, I ara nearly certain, were
merchants, or their clerks, who went about their

216 FIVE years' JOURNEY
business, quickly and without looking about them
much ; they knew the goings-on of this strange
part of the world already, and their tirae was money.
The second class were those new-comers, who
had landed everything, looked about them for a
fortnight, fixed a day when they would start for the
mines, and amused themselves in the meantime by
walking about the streets, with their hands in their
pockets, to see and hear what they could during the
short time of their stay in town. These groups
stop before the calico houses, and laugh at the
different patterns, come to a dead halt wher3 they
see iron-ware, lift and try the weight of the pick
axes and spades, take the dirty crowbars, shaking
their heads at the same time, between two fingers,
rock the cradles, the store-keeper has put as an
inducement before his door ; and one or two, who
have already Inquired into the mysteries of gold-
washing, as likely as not with a book in their
hands, are comparing the reality with the descrip
tion, and trying to explain the use of the wonderful
article. Such men Inquire the price of everything,
but buy nothing, having brought aU such tools
with them from the States, and ask the prices
now only to smile inwardly at the thought of the
money they have already saved by not being
obliged to pay Californian prices for aU such
things. They also enter the gambling-houses,
saunter up and down between the tables, look at

ROUND THE WORLD. 217
the pictures, talk about the large pieces of gold
which a gambler has piled up here and there before
him for a bait, even risk, but in very rare cases,
a single dollar on a favourite card, with the excuse
— we have come here to try our luck, we must
try everything ; — but losing it, they leave the house
as quietly as they entered it, to visit, perhaps, an
auction-room, with the same profit to the owner
of it, stopping the passage there for hours, without
the least intention of buying the sUghtest article.
The third are the working-class, but in a far
different sense from what we understand by this
name; and these raight, or ought to be divided
again into two different classes, into voluntary and
astonished workmen.
The voluntary are those who have made up
their minds to face anything ; they have thrown off
their coats, roUed up their sleeves, and go at It
with a wUl to set up their huts or houses, work on
the road for Government perhaps, or do anything
that coraes within their reach — not to get rich In
this way, but to get their things in order, or save
the money for their passage to the mines.
The astonished, on the other hand — and the
landing swarms with them — are those who find
themselves suddenly obliged to work here, because
no one will do It for them, while a single errand
costs them as much as they paid for a month's
service in the old country. They have read about
VOL. I. L

218 FIVE years' journey
such a state of things existing in CaUfomia as they
reaUy find it ; but beUeved it with a face, as if they
were going to say : " Oh, you're only joking," and
now find themselves, to their utter dismay, in a
scrape, and don't know exactly how to get out of
it again. They stand on the shore of this most
singular country, with their trunks, boxes, chests,
and other things around them, and nobody seems
to care the least in the world about them or
their trunks. If they do not reaUy intend to stop
down there on the landing aU night — and other
boats in fact are already pressing in, and want the
room to land their own baggage — they must move,
and at it they go at last toIUng up the steep banks
in the sweat of their brow. They do not puU off
their coats ; for they would be ashamed to show
themselves in the streets in shirt-sleeves, and every
twenty yards, or as soon as they meet anybody,
they set down whatever they are carrying, wipe
their red-hot faces, and ask the man, who looks
to them very rauch like a labourer, to take their
luggage to an hotel, looking in great astonishraent
after the " free and independent," who, raost likely,
teUs thera " to do it theraselves, if they wanted it
done." They have torn their fine dress-coats, and
knocked their sUk hats into aU raanner of shapes ;
and these are the men who stop at last on the top
of the bank, sitting on their own tmnk which they
have carried up here, and wiping their faces, perhaps.

ROUND THE WORLD. 219
with an embroidered handkerchief, murmur re-
proachfuUy — " and this is California I"
To form an opinion about the country itself,
merely from the first wUd impressions — and these
I wish to give the reader — would be madness. At
that time, seventy thousand raen were supposed to
be working in the raines, and San Francisco, with
its environs, was estimated to contain about twenty-
five thousand ; but it would be just as easy to
count the ants in a garden, as the fluctuating
population of such a town, and the inhabitants of
thousands and thousands of tents scattered through
the interior.
But the first harvest tirae of San Francisco,
where every article of food and clothing cost
nearly its weight in gold, seemed to have passed.
Quantities of goods lay even without a shelter or
cover in the streets, and principally on the shore
of the bay — and in the auction-rooms goods were
sold at any price — auctioneers only wanting to hear
a bid, to get things out of their hands. ' I saw, for
instance, a good lot of tea sold in this way for five
cents a pound.
Lumber maintained an exceUent price; but
everybody had written for it to the States and
Valparaiso, Australia, Sweden and Germany, and
a number of ships were expected with it.
Rents were extraordinary, and for small houses
or rooras, in the business part of town, sometimes
L 2

220 FIVE years' journey
five and six hundred doUars per month were paid.
Restaurants of two or three rooms, with a kitchen,
paid frora one thousand to twelve hundred doUars,
only for the month — and so on. Even to deposit
your trunk in some boarding-house or store-room
you had to pay from one doUar to one and a half
per month ; the raan who took care of the things,
as he caUed thera, not being in any way responsi
ble for their safe or even dry keeping — you might
just as well have put them under some tree in
the bush. But what matter to the gold-diggers?
they had left the whole world behind them ; and
should they now hang their heart on an old tmnk,
even if it contained their last shirt ? No ! away
to the mines ; in one day they would be able to
wash out there the value of two such tmnks ; and
where was the use of wasting a thought upon it ?
A stranger coiUd see how things were thrown
about as soon as he put foot ashore ; there were at
that time, I reaUy believe, not ten square feet in
the city, where a duty, but in every other respect
perfectly new shirt, was not lying. People had to
pay six doUai-s per dozen for washing ; and new
shirts only cost seven and eight, and the conse
quence was, everybody bought new ones, and threw
the old away, which were three months afterwards
picked up again, principaUy by some Irishwomen,
and washed and sold. But a good raany mer
chants, who brought fine linen with them, and

round the world. 221
were not wilUng to throw a shirt away which they
had worn perhaps only a day or two, put them by
in some trunk, and sent them — it raay sound ridi
culous, but is notwithstanding true — by vessels
bound for China, to get thera washed there for a
mere nothing, and brought back when the ship
returned. It was a rather long distance to send
for a laundress.
I was interested, but at the same time, disgusted,
by the quantity of gambling heUs and tables, which
pay an enormous rent to governraent, and in no
country is anything better than a licensed way of
stealing money and ruining people. How it will
be in later times with these places I do not know,
but they wiU never be stopped without bloodshed,
and the people of the once-organized state wUl have,
as they, once did in several parts of the United
States, to lynch the gamblers to get rid of them.
But in spite of this, they are most excellent
places for the study of character, and I have passed
raany an hour in these weU-warmed and weU-
llghted rooms, amongst a crowd of people who
were pressing up and down between the tables,
stopping sometimes where a larger pile of gold than
common, or a higher bet, attracted their curiosity.
During the time I stopped in San Francisco, a
Mexican — always the calmest and seemingly the
least eager players — entered the El Dorado, and
after standing for a tirae in the crowd, wrapped up
n his old scrape and watching how the game went

222 FIVE years' journey
he finaUy puUed out an old Unen bag of dollars, as
everybody thought, and put it upon a card, from
that minute bending over the table, and watching
the fingers of the gambler, as if he was tracing the
blood running through his veins. He won, and
the gambler quietly took the bag and opened it,
to count the doUars, when he turned suddenly as
pale as a sheet, for the bag contained, not doUars,
but doubloons. As he had not money enough on
his own table, he caUed on some of his neighbours,
and the Mexican was paid directly, and afterwards
left the room as quietly as he had entered it. But
this was only an exceptional case, and hundreds
and hundreds lose their aU in these heUs, for they
have not even a fair chance against the gamblers
themselves, aU of whom — and I reaUy believe there
is not a single exception — play false wherever they
get a chance ; and what difference in that case is
there between this and stealing ?
The representatives of various nations he
meets everywhere in the streets, are most striking
to the stranger. The CaUfomians themselves,
with their large, gaUy-coloured ponchos and their
broad-brimmed glazed hats ; and the Chinese,
these two being, in fact, the most prominent,
with the addition of the Mexicans in their slashed
trousers, white drawers and dirty scrapes. French
men frora the southern parts of France, with theu
red caps and sunburnt fiices ; South Sea Islanders,
Malays, Chileans, and Argentines ; EngUsh,

round the world. 223
Germans, Italians, claim your attention, and, in
short, every native on the globe seems to have
sent her representative ; and here and there, but
very rarely, you raay notice a Californian Indian
gUding quickly through the streets, to gain open
ground again, looking around hira at the sarae
time in dull and mute astonishment.
Thousands of these different people start daily
for the mines, partly in smaU steamers, which had
commenced to run to Stockton and Sacramento
city, partly in schooners, and partly in small
sailing-boats, in a slower, but also cheaper way, and
even round the Bay of San Francisco, towards
Pueblo San Jose with mules and horses, but these
only for the raost southern mines.
I now inquired for my luggage, left on board the
' TaUsman,' as the reader wIU recoUect. A part of it
I found in good order, but another part had disap
peared ; neither the captain nor the supercargo troub-
Ung their heads much about it after I had left the ship.
This arranged, I myself looked round for a
conveyance for the mines, and not wishing to pay
thirty doUars a-piece for a passage on board one
of the steamers, some of us, aU passengers by the
' Reform,' (and a motley group we were), determined
on going in a large schooner, the ' Pomona,' which
was ready to start the very next day.
On the 19 th of October we were on the landing
at the appointed spot, to wait there for the
' Pomona's' boat to take us on board.

224 FIVE years' journey

CHAPTER II.
A TRIP TO THE GOLD MINES IN THE RAINY
SEASON.
Punctually at two o'clock — I don't know how
it is, but we Germans are always punctual — wc
took our luggage down to the shore, expecting the
promised boat every minute, but obtaining, instead
of an early start, a most splendid two hours'
opportunity of watching the Uvely intercourse at
this place, to our hearts' content. Boats were
everywhere coming in from the different vessels,
setting passengers on land vrith their luggage,
and leaving the poor animals not unfrequently in
the nicest predicament — a little steamer, that had
come from Sacramento having also just landed
some sick people. A cart seemed to have been
already provided, for it came down frora town for
thera, and two very pale and sickly-looking men
were put into it, and taken up to town, perhaps to
be buried in a day or two.

ROUND THE WORLD. 225
" You are for the mines ?" said an old sunburnt
American, surely from the backwoods, for he
had the entire cut of the face. He was going
to pass us, but stopped on seeing our " fixings,"
with a singular kind of fun lighting up his eyes —
and he had cause enough for it, for some of us
looked sufficiently green,
" Yes, we are," I answered him, rather abruptly,
but the man was not so soon rebuffed,
" WeU boys," he continued, giving his quid a
turn from the larboard to the starboard side,
" ' a nod is as good as a wink to a blind horse,' but
if you'U listen to reason — what I don't expect you
wIU though — you had better stay here in town
during the rainy season, which may commence
every day. If you go up now to the mountains
for to wash, it ' mought' be more likely you would
get washed — you understand me."
It was aU right, but the good man was wasting
his time, and his counsel, in fact, came rather late,
and I told him so, as we had already taken our
passage on board the schooner for Sacramento city.
" Paid already ?" he inquired, pursing his brows
" and on board a schooner — deck passage ?"
I only nodded to him, and the old feUow, with
out saying another word, shoved his hands down
into his breeches pockets as far as he could get
them, and whistling " Yankee doodle" with all his
raight, went down the street.
L 3

226 FIVE years' journey
I did not like his manner ; the old raan had
raost certainly seen a good deal of California ; but
what could we do now ? at this very moment, the
' Pomona's' boat came alongside, and taking our
things on board, turned of course our attention
from every other object. The schooner lay between
the rest of the vessels, and in a spot where I did
not see how we could get out again ; and how did
it look on board ? I thought of the old American
already — there was no room even to put a foot
down upon deck, every inch of the gangway, as
well as every other part of the vessel, was stowed
with flour-bags, lumber, and banels ; the surface
of this perfect chaos of things being crowded at
the same tirae with passengers, who seemed to
look upon us as intruders upon their peace. But
what could we do? throwing, therefore, what
little luggage we had, on the flour-bags and
molasses banels, we followed after them, trying at
the same time, though in vain, to look out a place
where we could pass the night with only some de
gree of comfort.
Our anchor was not weighed, or the mainsaU
set tUl sunset, and I felt reaUy curious to see how
we should clear, in spite of a nice little breeze, all
the neighbouring vessels. And sure enough we did
not clear them, for the mate ran her, after we had
raade hardly twenty yards headway, right plump
into the bowsprit of the next barque, and before

ROUND. the world, 227
we could get clear of her and repair damages, it
had becorae so dark that there was no possibility
of starting again that night.
This was a fine beginning of a voyage, and I
was only glad the old American could not see us
here. We passed a miserable night — ^very good
acccommodation for deck passengers was pro
mised to us, but we did not even get a place to
stretch ourselves ; the consequence of course being
a bad dysentery, very easily caught in this climate.
Next day we started, but only covered a distance
that I could have pulled in half the time in a skiff,
yet we were moving at least, till the third day,
when the old schooner which drew ten feet of water,
though the pUot himself said that we could never
pass the bar of the Sacramento with it in the
present state of the river, ran comfortably aground
in the very bay — and there we stuck.
The captain, an Araerican, but one of the
worst specimens of the nation — such a character
as you principaUy find on the flat, and steam-boats
of the Mississipi and Arkansas (his name was
Peterson, I shall never forget it,) swore and cursed
the whole day, frora the very minute the schooner
started, to the raoraent the saUs were again furled.
I do not attach much weight to a slight curse,
but I, and even the saUors of the schooner, felt
disgusted at the low, profane feUow, with his
never-ceasing oaths. He could not give a single

228 FIVE years' JOURNEY
command without such an addition, and a hundred
times a day — for he had his flying jib up and
down five and six times every hour — we heard
him bawling on deck. " Take down that
flying jib," foUowed by a honible string of
oaths. We had to get a Ughter from Benitia, a little
town on the bay, to ease our ship off the bar, and
lost by it fully twenty-four hours, and after we got
off, Mr. Peterson wanted to take the same freight
on board again, and load her down as before ; but
to this we objected. We seven Germans, and
three or four Americans, told him we would never
aUow him to take the goods on board as long as
we were there, since the pUot himself had said we
should not be able to clear the bar with them ;
several of us, besides, were very sick of the whole
affair, and the captain offered at last to return us
part of our passage-money, if we would go with
some other conveyance up from New York,
another little town right on the mouth of the
Sacramento and San Joaquim. We were glad
enough to take advantage of such a chance, and
soon found a boatman, who passed us with a nice
little sailing wherry, to take us aU together up to
Sacramento city for ten dollars ahead. We quickly
agreed — the man made one hundred doUars
In about thiity-two hours — and jumping aboard,
had the satisfaction of passing that same evening.

ROUND THE WORLD. 229
the ' Pomona' again, lying high and dry on the
bar of the Sacramento river, while we could
even hear that sweet captain of hers, at the dis
tance we were, cursing his mate and all hands on
deck. Our boatswain was the captain of the ' Sabine'
a fuU ship which had come out to California with
passengers, the ship being owned by the pas
sengers themselves, who had bought her in New
York, loaded her with provisions and sorae goods,
and got her out here, after deducting their own
passage-money, nearly for nothing. She now lay
for sale In the harbour, with only the captain and
cook on board.
Ships were very frequently sold In this way in
the United States — old tubs thought unfit for sea
long before, and perhaps condemned in one har
bour already, when the gold excitement drove
people nearly mad, and everybody wanted to be the
first to get away, were painted afresh, received
another name and a couple of new spars perhaps,
and away they went, with a cargo of passengers
and provisions round the Cape. If everything
went well, they doubled the Cape and reached their
place of destination, but many of these — never in a
condition to weather the storms and rough sea of
those latitudes, and a new coat of paint not being
sufficient to hold them longer together — went to
pieces, arid many a poor saUor or passenger has

230 FIVE years' journey
had his gold fever cooled in the icy waves of that
dangerous Cape.
We went up the Sacramento with alight though
favourable breeze, and it was pleasant to the eye to
see the beautiful oaks that fiUed the river bottoms,
and were at many places encircled by luxurious
vines and other creepers. But the bottom is not
wooded far inland, the timber stretching only to
about a mile or two in breadth, and being bounded
again by wide and perfectly bare and swampy plains,
on which, however, a most exceUent grass grows,
and they serve at the same time as lurking places
for the elk and grizzly bear. The river itself is tole
rably broad and open, with a good channel even
for larger vessels, and as it is cleared by the annual
floods from the greater nuraber of snags, boats
have, with only a Uttle attention, no dangerous pas
sage at aU.
That night we caraped on the bank of the river
by a good roaring fire, there being plenty of dry
wood about there to keep it up aU night, and next
afternoon we reached Sacramento city, rather a
proud narae for a place which looked at that time
very much as if a wandering tribe of Indians had
struck camp there for a night or two. Frora the
river we could see nothing at aU of the town,
as nearly all the trees, chiefly large sycamores
and oaks, had been left standing along the bank,
though the river itself evinced the neighbour-

ROUND THE WORLD 231
hood of a large and busy place by all kinds and
varieties of vessels, which lay there, some moored,
others stopping to land passengers, and some In
fact mn aground ; among these, two large full
ships, which must have come up here with very
high water, and were now lying dolefully upon
their beam-ends.
Taking our things up the high and dusty bank,
we struck camp just above town, on the edge of a
little thicket, where we had plenty of wood and
water, but I was astonished at seeing the busy
life of this so young, but, in fact, rapidly rising
place. Everybody seemed in a hurry ; carts and
waggons were pressing to and fro, bringing and
taking goods from and to the river ; here a party
were loading their mules for the mines, there another
setting up a tent or sraaU hut to commence busi
ness. Wherever a man was seen idle in the
street, he was sure to be asked if he wanted work,
and even the schooners at the landing paid eight
doUars a day for taking out freight, while carpen
ters and all other artizans, were offered twelve,
fourteen, and sixteen doUars a day. As provisions,
and, in fact, everything else, was very dear here,
we wanted to get off as soon as possible, and re
quired for this purpose, before anything ,else, a
miJe to carry our provisions and part of our other
effects, and they were daily in the auction mart of
the place.

232 FIVE years' journey
The same morning I went into a drug-store to
buy some linseed, for I was not yet weU, and felt
extremely wealc On asking the price of the Un
seed first, before I ordered the man to get it for
me, for I had began to grow careful, the apothecary
told me it was one doUar an ounce ; the young man,
with a beautiful crop of fiery red hair, assuring me
at the sarae time that he would not get up from his
chair for less than a doUar, so I did not disturb his
rest any farther.
Next morning I went to the auction mart, and
I wish the reader could have been with rae there, to
see the singularly busy life of that little place. In
one of the widest streets of Sacramento, the houses
of course consisting of nothing but tents and some
low wooden frames, and beneath some beautiful old
oak trees which the Inhabitants had left standing,
the auction was held, continuing from early morning
till late In the afternoon every day of the week, ex
cept Sunday, and coUecting of course aU those who
have any business as weU as those who have none —
only to see the sport, or perhaps heai- the prices of
the different things and animals.
At several spots, where they had chosen the
stump of a tree or sorae large cask set on end
for that purpose, lank and lean down-easters — and
you wUl know thera wherever you find them
through the world — stood praising and seUing with
nearly Incredible volubUity all that came under

ROUND THE WORLD. 233
their hands. But these had, in spite of this,
the fewest auditors, for the greatest mass of
spectators or buyers formed a perfect avenue in
the street, up and down which eight or ten auc
tioneers were gaUoping upon just as raany mules
or horses.
" Gentlemen, eighteen doUars; only eighteen
doUars 1" one of them croaked in a hoarse and
hardly audible voice, for he had been screaming in
that way for the last fourteen days ! praising an
old white horse, which really seemed to be only
held together by the saddle- girt, " eighteen dollars
for this fine, young, exceUent horse ! Gentlemen —
shaU I say twenty ? Only eighteen dollars for
this exceUent riding-horse, gentlemen ! Only
eighteen dollars, with saddle and bridle, alone
worth thirty in San Francisco !"
" One hundred and thuty doUars for this fine
mule, gentlemen !" another cried, gaUoping close
up to the hoarse one, drowning his voice com
pletely with his own. " Only one hundred and
thirty doUars — worth one hundred and eighty or
two hundred, gentlemen — shall I say one hundred
and thirty-five? — hundred and thirty-two — thank
you, gone for one hundred and thirty-two doUars,
gentlemen." It was in fact a beautiful mule, and was sold
afterwards for one hundred and fifty-one dollars i
the price of mules varying also from sixty up to
that sum, just as there were buyers in the market or

234 five years' journey
parties come up who wanted to start soon. The
horses, nearly aU of which had corae over the
mountains that summer, looked pitiable enough —
only one fetched sixty doUars, with saddle and
bridle — the rest were nearly aU sold at prices vary
ing frora twenty to thirty dollars.
Large waggons, coraraonly drawn by two yoke
of oxen, aU of which had also corae over the moun
tains, fetched the best prices, as they were fre
quently sold, especiaUy if the oxen looked weU, for
seven and eight hundred dollars.
We bought on the second day a good raule for
seventy-five doUars, and packing what provisions
and cooking utensUs we possessed upon it, making
a load of about one hundred and fifty to one hun
dred and eighty pounds, we started In good earnest
for the mines ; but the reader ought to have seen
us. Our Uttle party consisted of seven souls,
and a motley company it was, three of them
being merchants' clerks, one an apothecary, one
a saUor, one a locksmith (the locksmith and one
of the merchants' clerks were brothers), and myself.
We had only taken with us what Uttle luggage
we could not do without, but, besides this, nearly
aU of us carried sorae kind of weapon or other.
But I had better give the reader at once a true
description of us aU : he wIU get acquainted in that
way with a great number of such parties that
started, and even yet start, in a similar way, to
the mountains for gold.

round THE WORLD. 235
We had been, as I have said, seven, but one
of the young raerchantmen gave up the second
day, and stayed behind; the weather was too
hot for hira, and he was not able to undergo
so many hardships as he thought we should be
obliged to do from the first start — and he was
not far wrong in that.
The two brothers, to commence with the raost
interesting part of the group — Jews from Berlin,
seemed not to have had much idea about working
hard, but like a good many of the new-comers,
thought they should find the gold easily enough
in the mountains : they wanted at least to make
the trial, and were equipped accordingly. The
locksmith carried a rifle and a long hanger, or
couteau de chasse, at his side; wore a gray gar
dener's cap with a large peak, a leathern belt
with a pistol stuck in it, and a white linen
bag over his left shoulder ; his trowsers were
roUed up, and his coat lay with the rest of the
things upon the raule, himself going in shirt
sleeves. His brother sported a short jacket, rather tight-
fitting trowsers, high water-boots, and a singularly
formed blue cap, with a kind of china button upon
it. He canied no gun, merely a hanger, but as
he buckled it rather curiously around him, the
weapon was always too far behind and too deep,
and reaUy seemed more for ornament than use.

236 FIVE years' journey
Over his right shoulder he had also swung a
kind of bag, with some little things he wanted
on the road, and as our frying-pan would not
agree upon the mule with the boiler and the
tea-pot, but knocked against them continually,
and kept up an uninterrupted clatter, he carried
that in his hand, which made it look, in connexion
with the couteau de chasse, something like a species
of shield.
The little apothecary wore a green PoUsh cap,
with four corners, a strip of black fur around it,
and a red beard below it, canying upon his back
a kind of black soldier's knapsack, with a roUed-
up blanket laid over it, and a short, stout walking-
stick in his hand. His trowsers were also tucked
up half-way to his knee, and he had a pecuUar
way of holding the stick in walking, far away from
his body. His name was Kunitz : the two brothers
were named Meyer.
The fourth, Huhne, was a stout voung: feUow,
of about twenty yeai-s of age, with a green hunting-
cap, yellow overcoat, trowsers, and half-boots, a
striped bag over one shoulder, a roUed-up blanket
over the other, and a double-barreUed gun in his
hand. The young saUor was equipped in his sea-
clothes, but with the addition of a double-barreUed
gun, and a roUed-up blanket.
I myself wore my old leathern hunting-shirt.

round the world. 237
with hunting-pouch, rifle, and bowie-knife, with
a Scotch cap and high water-boots, and also a
small pouch buckled round me, which contained
the most necessary medicines for the mines.
Such were our equipments for the diggings, and
with the mule amongst us, which one of us always
had to lead, the reader may be assured we formed a
perfect picture.
During the flrst days we met with not the least
incident worth noticing ; we raarched slowly along
a very dusty and extremely hot road, meeting
empty waggons and mules, coming from the
mines, and sometimes horsemen, who gaUoped
along at a rattling rate, with a serape or blanket
behind them, leaving the mines and going back
to the towns before the rainy season set in.
Sometimes we even overtook pedestrians, who
carried everything they had upon their backs,
tmdging slowly along upon their tedious track,
or resting, already knocked up, under a shady
tree, with their spades, pickaxes, and pans by
their side.
The third night we reached an old but aban
doned camping-place of some Indian tribe, and
struck camp there ourselves. A reaUy romantic
spot had been chosen for It upon the shore of
the Sacramento, many signs showing that the
tribe could have left this place only a few
days before, perhaps when those Americans came

238 FIVE years' journey
and set up their tents not a hundred yards
from their old hearths and homes. Down on
the river there were the posts yet left, upon
which the fishers had lain with their nets, and
the planks stiU extending into clear water, where
the squaws had come down to fill the drinking
vessels, and get the water for their acorn mash.
On the top of the bank we found the round
stones, with which they cmsh and pound their
acorn meal, and several wooden troughs and bowls,
forgotten or purposely left behind, rested here and
there against a tree. These brown sons of the
plains had also been good hunters with their
simple bows and arrows. What a quantity of
deers' horns were lying on the roots of an old
broken-down white oak, and close to it the wings
of a black and powerful eagle proved the tme and
deadly aim of another marksraan.
And where were the Indians who had chased
the deer, or the squaws who had cooked theu
raeals? Gone, driven away from the graves of
their fathers, wandering homeless through a
country where the pale-face had disturbed their
peace, kUled or frightened away their game,
destroyed their fisheries, and threatened, and even
taken their lives. One year had been enough
to effect aU this, and the Indians had already
ceased to exist as a tribe, before they could only
comprehend what fearful consequences the crowding

ROUND THE WORLD. 239
in of the pale faces upon their lands must entaU on
them and their chUdren,
In North America, as well as other colonies,
the oppression and destruction of the natives or
aborigines was effected graduaUy, and was rather
the effect of time, or the natural consequences of
progressive immigration. The chUdren saw year
after year, how the strangers increased, and found
themselves thrust back from the inhabited parts
into their wild homes, the game growing scarcer
with every year, though the whites themselves
showed the tribes other means of earning their
living, and even encouraged them to gain it in the
sarae way that their conquerors did. Their religion
and habits were at the same tirae respected, and
the pioneers who went first among them and
settled in their boundaries had to act with great
precaution for their own security — the red son
of the woods was too powerful in his own home,
and the squatter feared the war-yeU of the enraged
wanior. But how different was the fate of the Indians
here ; the cry of the new El Dorado shot through
the world, and before the wUd chUdren of these
mountains could have the least foreboding what
would be the consequence of hundreds on hundreds
flocking in and searching the gulches after the
" yeUow stones," their land was flooded with
thera. Frora all sides, over the mountains, down
from the north, and up from the south, and even

240 FIVE years' journey
over the sea, they pressed in ; the natives were
not driven back, they were surrounded and mined,
and while the whites suffered them to exist
at least, they robbed them at the same time
of nearly aU the means of existence, whUe they
punished the least crime against themselves with
death. But enough of these painful facts ; we pity the
poor tribes while we cannot save them, and the car,
fate, rolls slowly on and crushes them beneath Its
wheels. On the Thursday we passed the little tent-
town of Verraont. Feather River here eraptles itself
into the Sacramento, having Vernon upon its left
shore, and another little town, Fremont, upon its
right ; the smaU tongue or peninsula which juts
out between the two rivers being already occu
pied, though the yearly floods are said to cover
the whole strip of land with the powerful swell of
the torrents.
There was a ferry estabUshed here, large enough
to carry over loaded waggons with their teams.
That sarae night we camped on Bear Creek, fol
lowing up Feather River now, to cross It farther
above. Next day we crossed the Y'uba River,
which empties itself into Feather River, the Yuba
also being a tolerable good water-course, with suffi
cient water for even smaU stcaraers a good way
up, but now only navigated hy some whale-boats.
We could cross the Yuba, however, by wading.

ROUND THE WORLD. 241
Here we met a team coming down from the
most northern raines, and a German was with it,
who told us to go up by aU means to the Read
ing raines, where there was everything we wanted
— plenty of gold, provisions cheap, and several
very nice famUies had taken up their quarters there
to winter in the raountains. The distance was
about one hundred and fifty miles, and we could
do it easUy in six days. It was getting dark, and
the man had no time to stop any longer with us,
for he wanted to cross the river with his team before
night set in.
We held a grand council that evening as to
where to go to, as we had fixed on no certain spot
as yet ; but thinking we could tfust a countryman
of ours who could not have the least interest in the
place we might select for our winter quarters, we
determined at last on foUowing his advice and to
foot it really to the Reading ; there was plenty of
game and gold, by his account, and we should
have a pleasant life in the mountains.
But it was a singular fact, that everybody we
spoke with about the mines had an opinion of his
own, differing entirely from the rest, about aU those
places we heard commonly talked of. Some had
told us before that the Reading mines were un
healthy ; others had said, unhealthy, no, but there is
no gold to be found ; and this old feUow gave a
glowing account of them. Just in the same way,
VOL. I, M

242 FIVE years' journey
some praised Feather River up to the clouds, whUe
others gave It the worst name of aU the gold-
producing streams in CaUfomia — who was right
now? Next day, therefore, determined on taking the
northern route, we crossed Feather River by wading
it, and camped on the other side. On this day we
came to the first Indian viUages, built on the banks
of the river, and consisting of at least thirty or
thirty-five weU-made huts, dug half in the ground,
and walled and roofed very rauch like those of the
Mandan Indians of North America, The huts
were dug about four feet deep into the ground,
strong posts being set up in the inside and the
middle, with rafters and beams across them, which
were overlaid and connected with branches, and
finaUy covered with a thick and weU-beaten coat of
ground, which was of a perfectly round shape, and
turned off the rain completely. Above-ground,
they rose to a height of six or eight feet, having a
smaU and low entrance, through which the inhabi
tants had to crawl in or out. A hole for the smoke
was left exactly in the centre.
These viUages look rathei- singular through a
quantity of cyUndrical plait-work erections, made
out of cane, about ten feet high, and four feet in
diameter. They serve to hold the winter provisions
for the natives, and generaUy stand singly by the
separate huts to which they belong, sometimes,

ROUND THE WORLD, 243
though, three and four together, looking very rauch
Uke a kind of watch-tower, scattered through the
carap. At the entrance of a great raany huts we
found squaws sitting, with large pUes of roasted
acorns spread out on a blanket, by their side, while
they were cracking the hard sheU of the acorns
with their ivory teeth, dropping the kernel without
touching it with the lips, into a piece of cloth upon
their laps, and throwing the shell away. The
dress of the woraen consisted of a blanket throvm
round the shoulders, and a short but thick kind of
mat, or rather apron, made out of reeds or rushes.
The men, on the contrary, sported nearly every
fashion in the world ; sorae were entirely naked,
without even a waistcoat, merely with some orna
ment in the hair ; others had a blanket wrapped
around thera, whUe others again wore a perfectly
European dress, with everything belonging to it,
except shoes. Their national ornaments seemed
to be of a very simple kind ; they aU had, both
raen and women, their ears pierced, and wore in
these a simple piece of wood or quUl ornament,
painted. They also tattoo, but I only saw a few
of them with these marks, and then on the chin
only, with fine blue stripes running down from the
comers of the raouth.
The first vUlage we passed seeraed very thickly
inhabited, or else everybody was before his own
door or upon the roof of his hut, where the men
M 2

244 FIVE years' JOURNEY
were principally sittuig, and seemingly enjoying the
warm sun with a great deal of pleasure. They
were nearly aU naked, squatting with their backs
together, and appearing not to take the least notice
of the white passengers. But upon one hut four
feUows, three naked, and one wrapped up in a fiery-
red blanket, were stationed, who seemed to find
peculiar amusement in our appearance, talking, and
arguing with each other, and laughing. The women
were nearly aU busy, diving though, wherever they
got a chance, away into their huts, as soon as the
white strangers approached them. We saw a sin
gular kind of ornament in one of these viUages ; it
was a long pole, upon the upper part of which five
or six very weU-stuffed wUd geese were fastened,
just as if they were running up the pole with out
stretched necks. Not speaking the language, I
could not inquire of the natives for what purpose
they had set up such a sign, for there was no wUd
goose hotel in the neighbourhood ; but what I heard
afterwards of the tiibe makes me think it was a
kind of national emblem, the favourite animal oi
the tribe, and as likely as not that frora which
the whole tribe derives its narae, as other tribes In
California are caUed Cayotas, and also in the Atlan
tic States the Wolves and Foxes.
One of our party, the elder Meyer, poor fellow,
got a dreadful tooth-ache after we were a few days
out, and in consequence of it a sweUed face, but

ROUND THE WORLD, 245
such a face as I never saw before in my life ; his
head reaUy seemed to be double its proper size,
and his countenance was In fact most doleful.
Tooth-ache is at the same time an extraordinary
pain, as whoever has suffered from it, weU knows.
With some teeth cold water held to thera, wUl
ease the pain, whUe others cannot bear even the
thought of it. Sorae teeth drive you nearly mad
as soon as you apply salt to them, while I
saw a lady only very recently, who put a whole
pinch of table-salt right Into the hoUow tooth
to deaden the pain. Some teeth require you
to hold your head up, whUe others make you
bend it down to let the blood rush to it, or even
stand upon your head, sometimes in its worst
paroxysms. This was the sort of tooth Meyer had,
and the mad aching seemed to cease as soon as he
held down his head, perhaps for half-a-minute, to
the ground ; and as much as we pitied the poor
feUow, it was sometimes really impossible to refrain
from laughing at his manoeuvres.
The waggon road led right through the third
Indian village that we reached ; and following it,
we entered the little town where the natives were
sitting in their surly silence on the houses, only
once in a whUe throwing a dark look upon the
strangers who pressed in raore and more, filling
the country with their multitudes. Suddenly, right
in the very centre of the place, and surrounded on

246 FIVE years' journey
every side by the crowded huts — ^for tooth-ache
never cares for place nor time — Meyer had one of
his worst fits ; and without even looking around to
see where he was, he placed both his hands upon
the ground, and dropping his head down as far as
he could, he Ufted — partly to bring the upper
portion of his body farther forward, and partly to
balance it — his right leg as high up as he could get
it. The cap feU frora his head, aU the things he
carried slipped forward over his shoulders, and
the hanger caught In some fold or other, and was
now standing, just as it had hung before, right
upright in the air, increasing of course the oddity
of the whole figure.
The effect which this posture had upon the
indolent natives was extraprdinary. At the first
moment, a couple of women, who had been
sitting close by, cleaning acorns, jumped up,
dropped whatever they held in their laps, and
ran as quickly as they could into their huts ;
and even the men rose up suddenly, looking
in mute astonishment and wonder at tbe extra
ordinary stranger, who presented himself in the
heart of their homes In such a peculiar, and per
haps hostile posture. The thick red face that now
became visible between his arms and just above
the ground, did not serve to reassure them ; but
when we ourselves could hold out no longer, but
burst out, in spite of our compassion for the poor

ROUND THE WORLD. 247
feUow, into loud and perfect roars of laughter, they
seemed to drop every idea of hostility on his part ;
and thinking, as likely as not, that the whole was
only a performance which the kind stranger had got
up for their own sole amusement, they also set up a
perfect scream of delight ; and the women on every
side coming out of their caves again, and other
natives jumping upon the nearest huts, we were
sunounded in a few seconds by swarms of Indians,
poor Meyer, with his dreadful pain and desperate
posture, forming the centre of the merry crowd.
At last, he rose up again, greeted this time by
a perfect cheer ; but he was not in the humour to
favour the grinning savages with another per
formance, which they seemed reaUy desirous to
have, but throwing a wUd and angry look around
him, he shook his luggage in order and travelled on.
That same night, we had a light shower of rain,
and the clouds began to look rather suspicious ; if
the rainy season reaUy set in now, we were in
a bad fix, and so it turned out. We had not
marched three mUes that morning, before a fine
drizzly shower coraraenced, which grew harder and
harder, and set in at last to a downright rain,
which soaked us through in a few hours. Still we
trudged on over a wide plain, fringed by the timber
growth of the Bute creek, which we reached late
that night. There would not have been the least
chance of buUding any kind of camp when we

248 FIVE years' journey,
reached the first tree, for it was dark as pitch, and
aU of us were as cold and wet as If we had lain a
day in ice-water, but fortunately there was a rancho
here, " Neal's Range," as the Americans caUed it,
and we found an old shed, under which a party of
Americans had already caraped, with a roaring fire
on one side of it. Making room for us to Ue
down at least on the damp ground, we were able
to boU that evening a cup of hot coffee, and
stretch our limbs — our legs sticking out just under
the drippings of the roof — in comparative shelter.
That night a perfect storm set in, the wind howling
through the gnarled limbs of the old oaks, and
breaking down branches everywhere. Towards
morning, however, the sky cleared ; but Bute Creek
was so swollen, that we should have had to swim
if we wanted to cross ; and not being In any such
hurry, and rather Inclined to rest a day, and dry
our wet clothes, we decided on stopping here till
next morning, and then continue our journey to
the Reading diggings.
But our means of existence would soon become
rather precarious, if we did not speedUy reach some
mines or other, and be able to work there. A part
of our little company had had no money at all when
we started, and buying miUe, provisions, and tools
had absorbed the funds of the rest. Every cent we
had in cash on this very day, as we lay here under
an old crazy shed in the middle of a wUderness,

ROUND THE WORLD. 249
with only a small stock of provisions left, consisted
of four dollars and a half — about eighteen shilUngs
— for six men, and provisions rose during the rain
Uke mushrooms. Here we also found several
parties coming down from the raines, and all of
them seemed to have been in or near the Reading
diggings, and gave us the worst description
imaginable of them : provisions were cheap there,
because everybody left who saw the possibUity of
seUing what Uttle he had ; and though there was
undoubtedly gold to be found, it lay in such scattered
spots that it made it quite a matter of accident who
might drop upon a smaU quantity, whUe many at
the same time, and eighteen out of tv\'enty, worked
and worked just for their living, and it was even
doubtfiU if they could make that, if a heavy snow
fall should set In, in those rather high and cold
regions. Another point was the impossibUity of
getting away again, if winter really had set in ; and
from aU we heard now — and which was, in fact, con
firmed by several other • parties who came in next
day — it seemed as if our countryman, who had
given us such a glowing description of the place,
had had some interest in getting us there ; very
probably, a quantity of provisions he wanted to seU
himself on the spot. I particularly inquired how
game was up there, to have at least something to
depend upon, if provisions became too dear ; but
in this we also found ourselves disappointed. Our
M 3

250 FIVE years' JOURNEY
Informants had lived several months in the raoun
tains, sorae of them even hunters, but had not raet
a single grizzly bear, and very seldom deer. There
was no dependence on that.
But what to do now ? These men had a
notion of going to Feather River mines, but they
would not advise us to do so, for nobody could
tell which place was the best; but the Feather
River mines were assuredly the nearest, and our
main object now was to get to a place where
we could earn our living, as there was such a
bad prospect of carrying out our former plans.
In fact, we had no alternative left ; and there
fore determined, after a huniedly-held councU,
on giving up the Reading mines, and starting
direct for Feather River. To do this we had,
however, to retrace our steps about ten mUes,
and then strike over to Feather River again, and
cross this stream rather higher up than we had
done the previous time.
But It seemed as if we should not get away
so quickly from Bute's Creek as we had thought ;
for the second day we could not find our mule
till late in the afternoon, and the third and fourth
days it rained again as If the skies had sprung
a leak, which could not be stopped in any way.
On Wednesday forenoon, when the rain was
pouring down In torrents, the road consisting,
in fact, of nothing clsi; but a solid bed of mud.

ROUND THE WORLD, 251
ankle-deep, with holes in it, where the mules
sank down sometimes to their girths, two wag
gons with emigrants came down the road, right
across the Rocky Mountains, having left the-
States on the 1st of May, The poor people
were from Missouri; and as they had lost all
their animals but four on the road, they had
to leave the greater part of their provisions and
goods behind, to reach in safety a warmer climate,
before the winter snows set in, and buried them
in the icy heights. 1 felt truly sorry for the poor
chUdren (the mother lay sick in the first waggon),
the poor things wet to the skin, and shivering
in frost, were obliged to wade through mud and
water behind the vehicle, as the two half-starved
oxen were not able to drag any additional weight.
The men stopped their waggons not far frora our
fire, to go into the house and inquire the road,
and perhaps also to take a horn (a single drara
cost fifty cents, or two shiUings), and the little
ones came round our fire to warra themselves.
They were a boy of about eleven, a girl of nine,
and another one of about seven years of age;
and as we fortunately had sorae boUing water,
I quickly made them a cup of coffee, which seemed
to do thera at least some little good.
When I expressed my pity for them, an Ame
rican, who was standing by, remarked the chUdren
would not find , it so great a hardship as the

252 FIVE years' journey
parents did, as they frequently were used to such
a life in their own country, where they had to
go, sometimes in the worst kind of weather,
four or five mUes to school. The smaUest of
the children looked wIstfuUy up into his face
while he was speaking, and then said, with a
deep sigh :
" Yes ; but when we came home in the evening,
mamma had a warm dress for us, and on the
hearth we found warm food and hot coffee."
A couple of clear tears rose up into the poor
little creature's eyes, when she thought of the
scattered household gods of her own home ; but
she struggled nobly against the weakness, child
as she was, and seemed to be ashamed of it, for
she only held down her Uttle head, whUe spreading
her cold and tiny hands towards the blazing flame.
And gold — vile gold alone — had driven this
man from his peaceful home, exposing his famUy
to all the dangers and hardships of such a long
and tedious journey — to the burning sun and the
fevers of the plains, the icy winds and dangers
of the snowy mountains. At the same time, he
was not leaving a country where he had to toil on
steadily in the sweat of his brow, under a hateful
government perhaps, or held in poverty by an
overburthened population ; but he had quitted a
free and happy country, where every man, without
overworking himself, could earn his Uving, and

ROUND THE WORLD. 253
see his children grow up around him in peace
and plenty : and if his wife, who lay sick In
the cold and damp waggon, died on the road
or in this country, could he ever again look his
chUdren in the face, whose mother he had kiUed ?
Could he ever be happy again ?
Thousands of families have crossed the plains
and Rocky Mountains, under similar circum
stances, in hardship and misery; and hundreds
of them were even now shut up in the snow,
working away for their Uves, only to reach the
wet and swampy low lands ; perfectly willing to
brave anything they might meet there, that they
might not starve and be frozen to death in those
icy regions. And even before they reached the
mountains, raany families lost their father and
leader, or the children their mother, the parents
their offspring with whom they had started In
pride and hope ; and travellers told me there
were parts of those plains where a man could
never miss the road to the mines, if he only
foUowed the graves.
That night we had to hunt up our mule again ;
and the younger Meyer, who really could not find
his way through the woods for a hundred yards,
succeeded — though I TeaUy could not comprehend
how — in losing himself not a quarter of a mUe
from our carap, in an open plain, though he
had not left the trees beneath whose shade the

254 FIVE years' journey
rancho stood more than about four hundred yards.
Without even a blanket, and not able of course
to kindle a fire, he had the satisfaction of mnning
aU night round a tree, to keep hiraself warm and
aUve. On Thursday moming we left this range, to
strike to Feather River, and a bad and tedious
march we had of it. On the road I tried to get
within shooting distance of some herds of ante
lopes, but in vain; they were exceedingly shy
and wild, and on the open plain, without even
the smallest bush to hide and creep up to them,
they had their sentinels posted in every direction,
and at the first sight of man fled in wUd disorder
towards the mountains. I only shot a cayota,
one of the little Californian prairie wolves ; but
could, of course, do nothing with it. It measured
about four feet to the end of the bushy taU.
That night we caraped on the banks of Feather
River in a miserable spot which some of our party
had chosen, whUe two of us had been out looking
for antelopes. They had even coUected no wood,
except some green twigs, vvith vvhich to boil a little
water and smoke our eyes out. But here we
entered for the first time the real raines ; little tents
and bush-covered huts everywhere met our slght,and
when night set in, fi-om aU the slopes of the hiUs,
from out the valleys and fi-om the banks of the river,
little lights glittered through the darkness, and

ROUND THE WORLD, 255
here and there large fires blazed up, showing the
different places where the gold-searching popula
tion of the El Dorado had struck camp and dreamt
their golden dreams. Though it rained that night
again, as if heaven's gates were opened, we did not
grumble ; for had we not reached the mines at last ?
and was not the rest now, in comparison with all
the hardships we had suffered, mere child's play ?
We aU regarded the rain that night as if it belonged
to the first impression of the gold district, but I
could not help thinking of the old American, who
had spoken to me when we were awaiting the
' Pomona's' boat, and said we were going to the
mines to wash, though we had the probability of
getting washed instead — and how true had the
old fellow's words turned out ! I fancied I saw
him whIstUng down the streets, with his hands, or
rather his arms in his pockets, up to his very
elbows. Next moming we were perfectly benumbed with
cold and wet ; at the same time, as our fire had
been entirely put out by the rain, we could not
even boU a cup of coffee, and determined on
crossing the river before breakfast, and gain the
other side of the stream, if the weather cleared
up a little. At this part of the mines — the little
place was called Long's Store — they had told us
we should find a feny, and so we did, but a singular-
looking concern it was to go on board of. The

256 FIVE years' journey
ferry consisted. In fact, of nothing but a simple
waggon-body from some of the old lUinois or
Indiana waggons, caulked and pitched as weU as
possible, and just able to carry four persons, but
hardly their baggage. Four of us had to go over
first, paying a quarter of a doUar a-head, then
driving the mule in. It crossed in good style, and
after this I followed with the young saUor and our
baggage to bring up the rear. As the stream was
here hemmed in by high and mighty rocks, a
powerful cunent shot through the nanow vaUey
with dangerous speed, and our craft was not in a
fit state to give us a great deal of confidence, but
each of us squatting in a comer and keeping her
as quiet as possible and In good trim, while the
boatman hiraself In the third, and the baggage in
the fourth raade up the balance, we pushed her out
in the stream and the ferryman began paddUng
with aU his might. AU at once the water came
oozing In, and we had not left the shore more
than about fifteen yards, when it came in with a
rush. " She has spmng a leak," said our oars-man
drUy, and being used to It, I expect, he at the
same time puUed her round with much dexterity,
and ran her back upon a flat rock right below,
which had served him, I am sure, many a time as
a safe mooiing-place. We had to bale her out
now, and stuffing some old rags he carried with

round the WORLD. 257
him for the purpose into the leak, which was
nearly half-an-inch wide, we started again, and this
time reached the other shore, though nearly half-
fiUed, and aU our things wet.
As we paid one doUar and a half for ferrying,
and had been obUged to buy some salt and fresh
meat at Neal's Range, we had here — when we
reached the other bank of the Feather River —
e pluribus unum — just one dollar left in cash.
One doUar left to keep six strong, healthy men aUve
— there was a prospect for a cashier. But what
matter ? were we not in the mines ? had we not
provisions for several days yet ? and where was
there cause to be disheartened ? The rain, how
ever, was disagreeable, it poured down all day ; and
hearing of some beautiful timber a little way
farther up the river, where we could build a small
hut or shanty, and cover it with split boards, we
determined on trying to reach that part of the
country as quickly as possible, to get at least under
shelter, and be no longer exposed to a continuaUy
drenching rain.
On reaching the top of the hill we found an old
Pennsylvanian, who showed us the first gold. He
and his daughter had been washing the day before,
and cleared nearly an ounce — as he said — and he
thought the prospects in this quarter of the world
very good, Down on the river we could also see
several men at work, rocking away at their cradles,

258 FIVE years' journey
and digging and picking the hard ground. The
people led a busy life, and they seemed weU satisfied
with it, though I must confess I had thought it
rather different from what I found it. StiU it was
only a first commencement, and gave little cause
for grumbling as yet.
Next day we had some better weather ; and as it
was Sunday, we thought there would be no work
going on in the mines, but the late excessive wet
made the gold-finders stick to their cradles the first
fair day they got to make up for lost time, and
they were busy as bees along the whole bank of
the stream. We saw them at work only along the
banks of the little river, or in gravel-beds forraing
Uttle Islands in the low water. Throwing off the
gravel tiU they came to a certain depth, they carried
all this gravel, which contained some clayey ground
to their cradles or machines, and rocked away ; at
most places only two worked together, as they had
the water for washing to hand ; on some places, I
saw three with one cradle, and on a good many
spots only one by himself, picking the ground,
and carrying it to the water for washing it out,
sometimes even with a common pan.
But here we could not stop ; as we had no tent
to lie under, and were not able to pay fifty or
sixty dollars for one, we were obliged to go to
a place w here we could get timber, and the next
day found us amongst the beautiful red-wood of

round the world. 259
these mountains. But provisions had risen here to
an extraordinary price, flour was seventy-five cents
per pound, pork one dollar, salt also one doUar,
and fresh meat fifty cents with, and seventy-five
cents without the bone, and nothing else to be
got. Never mind, we were at last on the very
spot we had wanted to reach. Everywhere on
the bank of the river we saw men at work, and
Uttle log-cabins were buUt up on every suitable
place ; therefore, marching up the river, after we
had passed the last store, about two mUes farther,
and finding a reaUy romantic spot under high
towering pines and red-wood, we threw down our
blankets, and struck camp.
Before aU other things, even before getting under
shelter, however much we needed it, we had to try
to get a cradle, that whUe one part of our company
went to work and washed out some gold to buy
provisions with, the other should fell trees and
buUd a small hut, to have at least a dry and com
fortable place to sleep in. As the rainy season had
set in in good earnest, we had not to look long for
somebody who wanted to seU his traps and quit the
mines, and since we no longer had any use for the
mule, we made a bargain with two men, who
worked a little way farther up the creek — one a
Norwegian and the other an American — to exchange
our mule for their cradle and tools and what few
provisions they could spare. I also stopped with

260 FIVE years' journey
thera half-a-day to see thera work the cradle, and
get an idea how to hunt for gold, though the whole
work looked to me so strange and wild that I did
not see how it could require any judgment where
everything seemed raere chance.
But I shaU not tire the reader with a description
of the washing itself, or the different tools and ma
chines ; aU this has been described over and over
again in England, and is far too monotonous to bear
long explanations. I did not dig myself, for being
the only one amongst us who could handle an axe,
I went to work to feU a large red-wood, and split
some boards for a roof, the other five, in the mean
time, trying what they could do in the way of
washing. We were fuU of hopes, for the least suc
cess would guarantee to us, not oidy our existence
in the mountains through the winter, but also a good
profit, and perhaps — for why not we as weU as
others ? — some overgrown lumps of gold, of an
indefinite number of pounds, troy weight — the
heavier the better. We found ourselves very rauch
disappointed in the course of time.
It rained continuaUy :" there was not a dry
thread upon our backs, and even our blankets had
become soaked and afforded no warmth. Provi
sions rose, of course, accordingly ; and when the gold-
diggers came to camp that ev^ening, they brought
with them about two doUars' worth of gold, and on
sending one of them up to the store to buy provi-

round the world. 261
sions with it, the storekeeper would not let us have
flour under one doUar per pound, pork at a doUar
and a quarter.
The next day, Thursday, the same game — no
gold found, a trifle excepted, rain all day, and pro
visions rising again a quarter of a doUar the pound.
The first tree I felled, too, would not answer : it
looked weU enough outside, but was mouldy and
would not spUt, and I had to cut down another one ;
but the main instrument for splitting boards, a
froe, was wanting, and I had to lose half-a-day in
running about through the neighbourhood merely
to find a man who owned one, and even that we
could not keep, for the man himself expected his
family up there in a few days (I pity the poor
women who would be obliged to stop through a
rainy season in these raountains), and had to set up,
of course, a good and dry house first before they
reached the place. In fact, everything went the
wrong way, and the only thing that kept on
regularly was the rain, which carae down with
unabated regularity, and provisions went up with
every shower. At last we had not a single cent left
to buy even the raost necessary article of food, and
we would not bonow. Our raeals had becorae
sraaUer every day, and only to fiU our stomachs
we began mixing our bread with a small kind of
red berry, which grew around us in great profu
sion, and tasted weU enough. As we could not

262 FIVE years' journey
live much longer, and we all saw we must corae to
some decision, if our condition could not be altered,
in one way or the other, we agreed finaUy that
the next day should be decisive, whether we stopped
any longer up here (where there was, in fact, no
chance at aU of provisions coming up again this
winter, if the weather continued as it was), or
start back for Sacramento and San Francisco,
and give up mining altogether, for this season at
least. The gold-diggers wanted therefore, to try,
for the last time, a new plan, and I myself, as
there seemed no chance of getting a froe for the
next three or four days, shouldered my gun to take
a walk over the hUls, and try if I could not come
across a deer, or perhaps an old grizzly bear, and
get a quantity of meat.
Nothing at aU succeeded, our gold-diggers got
this day less than ever, provisions rose up that
evening to two doUars for a pound of flour, and
the same price for pork — the storekeeper seeming
even quite diffident about selUng it at present,
when he had a chance of getting more ; and I
myself, upon my hunting trip, saw only a single
deer, and that out of the range of my gun, I
could not find even tracks, and the hiUs really
seemed as if every particle of game had been
kiUed, or driven away.
That night we had hardly anything to eat, and
it rained frightfuUy ; but if we had had any doubt

ROUND THE WORLD. 263
what course to foUow under such circumstances,
sorae Americans who passed our camp early next
morning, would have solved it. They had every
thing they caUed theur own, and which they could
carry, upon their backs, leaving, as they said, a
neighbourhood, where there would be a famine in
a few days, if aU stopped there. Again we held
a general councU, and the result of it was that
we packed up our things, and that same morning,
the 18th of Noveraber, with the first rays of
sun, we started, heavily loaded upon our back
track. But we most certainly did not intend to carry
all the things we were burdened with at present to
the lowlands again ; therefore, on reaching the first
store on the hUls, where a Missouri man had com
menced keeping a warehouse, as he called it, we
raade a bargain with him, and sold him aU our
tools and part of the cooking utensils, the younger
Meyer even his rifle, and the older his hanger, for
cash, and went on our way with a very light load
and in the best possible temper, down into the
valley. We had found no gold ; but what matter ?
we were aU healthy yet, and had seen the mines at
least — the next time better luck — and laughing and
talking we clambered down the steep ridges tUl
night overtook and found us round a large fire
and a splendid panful of most excellent dumplings,
which Huhne, a very good hand at such things, had

264 FIVE years' journey
prepared to get our rather weakened stomachs into
good working order again. That night, though,
we tasted, in spite of the dumpUngs, the pleasures
of mountain-life again in bumpers.
At about ten o'clock, it commenced raining, and
never left off for a single minute during the whole
night. Next morning we had to get up in the
rain, kindle a fire again, and cook our breakfast ;
and after that, wringing out our heavy blankets,
we rolled them up once more, and sUnging them
over our shoulders, marched on. Next night we
had to lie down in the soft and perfectly liquid
mud, not a dry spot was to be found in the whole
neighbourhood ; but it did not rain, and that
was some comfort. We had our worst time
two days afterwards ; for on reaching Feather
River again, on the banks of which the ground was
high and dry, and traveUing comparatively easy,
we arrived after another night's hard rain, which
we passed, however, under a roof, at a smaU slew
or branch, which had grown now to a perfect
torrent, and mn right across our path. This we
had to cross ; but finding it deeper than we first
thought, our only chance vvas a raft to take our
things over, and then drag it with those upon it,
who did not know how to swim across. As no
large timber grew there, we carried a parcel of old
and half- burnt logs to the water's-edge, and tying
them together with aU tbe smaU pieces of twine

ROUND THE WORLD. 265
we possessed, we reaUy raade a sort of raft, which
we thought would carry aU our things. We
worked at this for about three hours, the rain
coming down at the sarae time as hard as it could,
and the two Meyers and Kunitz standing, while the
other three were wading about in the water, and
carrying and floating the old logs, shivering with
cold, and ready to give up nearly everything in
despair. At last we were prepared for a trial, and
fastening a rather weak fishing-line I had in my
pocket, as a tow-line, to our clumsy craft, I waded
into the water, and when I felt it getting too deep
to walk, cried to the others to push the raft after
me, whUe I stmck out for the other shore.
It was no go ; the logs were too heavy, and
sunk under water before it had got even out of
reach of the young sailor, who wisely foUowed it to
see how it would answer, and as the weight was
too great for the line, it broke, and catching at the
same moment round ray left arm and both my
feet, it was all I could do to reach the other shore
with my right arm ; satisfied at finding that they
had at least got hold of the raft again on the other
side, and were pulUng it in. Swimming back, I
helped them to puU our soaking wet thmgs out of
the water, when our saUor-boy, who had noticed
the rising of the creek, told us to make haste with
whatever we wanted to do, for in the next quarter
VOL. I. N

266 FIVE years' journey
of an hour, we should have just such another slew on
our other side, and we were even on a Uttle island
already, for the streamlet had risen in the last half-
hour more than six inches. Some Americans, who
also wanted to cross, and had been looking at us
for a good while, to see what success we had, hur
ried back, and on reaching the other channel,
shouted to us to make haste and foUow thera, for
the log we had crossed over on was nearly under
water already.
We had no choice left, for though there would
have been very little difficulty in crossing with
Huhne and the saUor, we should have had to
leave the others ; and not being wiUing to do that
we caught up our luggage, which was as heavy as
lead now through the water, and turned back.
And in fact it was high time ; the powerful
current nearly swept us away, and though we aU
reached the shore safely, we were aU but dead
with cold and wet.
That night we camped again in the house where
we had stayed the previous one with one of our
countrymen, at least under a dry roof, but with
hardly any firewood ; and the reader may think
what a night we passed. Our provisions con
sisted at the same tirae of a sraall piece of fat
pork and one biscuit a-piece, eleven of us crowd
ing round a sraaU pUe of Uttle more than hot

round THE WORLD, 267
embers. We saw the effects of this day's work
next moming ; for the saUor, whom I had thought
the hardiest of the whole of us, but who had
complained the previous night of headache and
drowsiness, was attacked by a sweUing in his
feet, so that he could not wear his boots, and
pain in the gums, indicating the first signs of
scurvy. Not being able to cross the slough, which had
become a perfect torrent, sweeping everything
before it, we heard of a whale-boat which had
come up Feather River. Some of those staying
with us at the hut declared their intention of
crossing to the other shore of the river, there
being not so many sloughs and swamps in follow
ing the river's course, as on this side. The only
difficulty seemed the price ; the Yankee, who saw
weU enough that a party of traveUers were in a fix,
asking two doUars per head to take us across. We
had to pay it, however ; and taking our sick man
over also, we walked on slowly and tediously with
hira. For the first two or three hours he was
able to walk at least by himself, whUe I car
ried his baggage ; but afterwards even that
seemed impossible, and I had to lead him slowly
along. On Friday we reached Captain Sutter's farm,
on Feather River ; it was the first tmly cultivated
N 2

268 FIVE years' journey
spot I had seen in California, and it looked to me
really like horae. I was getting tired of lying out
ini the wet every night ; I longed for warm and
clean clothing and civilized nourishment, and the
tUes on the roof, the window panes ; the clean and
open yard, with its ploughs and other instmraents,
the homely looking curtains to the windows, and
even flower-pots, recaUed to my memory long past
scenes, which rains and flood seemed nearly to
have washed out of my memory.
Fortunately, I found Mr. Sutter, for whom I
had brought to California a chest of books from a
friend of his in Germany, at horae ; and was re
ceived by him in a most friendly manner, though
I looked most certainly raore Uke a swaraped vaga^
bond than anything else. But people up here are
accustomed to see persons return from the mines
in just such outrigs, and find nothing uncommon
or extraordinary in it, though I am sure if I had
shown myself in that state in any of our German
towns, the police-officers would have taken care of
me directly. But I was sorry at not being able to
accept even the captain's hospitable Invitation to
dinner, as much as I needed a good meal once
again ; for our side man did not aUow us to delay
any longer ; he wanted rest, and, if possible, medi
cines, and the sooner we got him into Sacramento,
the better. Captain Sutter, however, when he

ROUND THE WORLD. 269
saw we were determined on starting, loaded us
with provisions for several days.
Captain Sutter is a weU-set, stout, and healthy-
looking man, of about forty-five years of age, with
a large moustache — a remembrance of former
times. He was the first of all in the raines, in fact,
who had power and provisions — two extraordinary
things at that time — and through his proximity to
the first gold mine, only had to pick up the lumps
as they feU, He owned, at the same tirae, im
mense tracts of land, and part of them, as Sacra
mento city, in the most advantageous positions ;
but being too good-hearted, he was misused by
most of those he had been kind to, and he even com
menced having his troubles with the land ; the
Araerican squatters settling on it, whenever they
thought fit, and caring little or nothing, whether
they were in the right or not, so long as they kept
the land. The state of things was far too unsettled
as yet, and the transition from a wild to a civilized
condition, far too rapid and unnatural.
During our stay on the farm, the younger Meyer
was taken IU, or at least attacked by weakness ; he
fainted right down in the yard, looking for the rest
of the day ghastly pale, but recovered sufficiently
to enable us to continue our journey, though rather
slowly, that same morning.
I reaUy do not know how we should have got

270 FIVE years' journey
on during the next day, for it proved aU we could
do as it was to proceed a few mUes with our sick
man — and he became worse during the night —
had it not been for a horse and cart which overtook
us that night at our camping place, and belonged
to two of our countrymen, who offered to take
the sick raan in their cart as far as they went,
nearly to the Uttle town of Vernon, on the Sacra
mento River. Next morning we helped him on
board, and were able then to travel as fast as
we pleased along the high and dry beaten path
of the river bank. That night the rayotas
favoured us with a perfect serenade ; they
howled round our camp in a most doleful
manner, sometiraes within a stone's throw of us
soraewhere in the bushes, and their screaming
and yeUing during a part of the night rendered It
impossible to do more than shut our eyes. The
noise lasted nearly the whole night, but the
little things are not dangerous, and wiU never
attack a man even when coUected in large bodies.
The land down here was a perfect plain, with
timber only on the edge of the river, forming a
smaU wooded bottom crossed by many slews. A
great part of this plain was now, after the heav^
rains, under water, though I do not doubt that some
well-dug ditches would easily have drained it off; but
hero and there the thickly-growing toolas, a kind

ROUND THE WORLD. 271
of thick, fleshy rush, showed real swamps, and as
most of these had been burnt off during the sum
mer, it gave the country a really doleful and black
aspect. The slews we had to cross were fortunately
not deep, for we had dry weather, at least the last
two days, and these creeks faU just as fast as they
rise. About dinner tirae we reached Vernon, the
older Meyer also growing iU, or at least so weak,
that he could not walk any longer. Very probably
the sight of a whale-boat, just about to start from
here for Sacraraento, did much to make him think
so, but it being at the same time desirable to have
somebody with our sick saUor, we took passage for
the two — with nearly the last money we had — the
paasage being five doUars for each of thera, a
distance they could run down with the current In
about three or four hours.
That night we camped for the first time again
on the Sacraraento River, and next day, Monday,
the 26 th of November, reached Sacramento city,
where we found our sick man taken to a boarding-
house, stretched out on his blanket at least under
the dry roof of a tent.
And here we were, after a winter's excursion
to the mines, not washers but washed, as that
old American had prophesied only too truly, but
we were not in a mood to be sorry about any-

272 five years' journey
thing : we had got back in safety and if we had no
money, here we were in a place where we could
get plenty of work, as we thought. We could
sleep at least dry, the clouds threatenmg another
shower for to-night, and even this we considered a
perfect luxury ; and a luxury it reaUy was, for our
clothes had had in fact no time during the last
four weeks to dry thoroughly on our bodies, and
such a life would certainly be sufficient to shake
the strongest constitution, besides being as un
pleasant as any one could desire.

round the world, 273

CHAPTER III.
SACRAMENTO CITY.
But what a difference there was between the
Sacramento of four weeks before and now. When
we came here before the rainy season, how busy,
how lively the streets were— five or six schooners at
one time discharging cargo on the banks ; waggons
pressing around it to get their loads and start for
the mines. People in the streets even ran some
times at fuU speed, not to lose their valuable time ;
merchants meeting at the comers exchanged a few
hurried words, and on they went again to attend to
their business. Where a man showed himself idling,
he was sure of having twenty inquiries, one after
the other, " If he did not want work, and what
he could do ?" There was even a premium paid to
those who could get good workmen for the dif
ferent schooners or other places of business. Each
man you spoke with had his own plans, and gene
rally wante'd hands to help him in accomplishing
them.
N 3

274 FIVE years' JOURNEY
On the landing, there were now, it is tme, as
many schooners as at that time, but everything
seeraed dead on board, and if you saw a figure
moving upon them, it was the cook who sat
leisurely upon some empty cask, smoking his pipe,
or the captain himself, who, once in a whUe, stuck
his head out of the cabin to take a look at the
clouds, and puUed it back again with a low mut
tered curse. No waggon, no cart was to be seen on
the landing, and those few men who were idUng up
and down there, seemed reaUy at a loss what to
do with themselves during the whole long day.
Whenever a new vessel carae up from San Fran
cisco, an accident that occurred now perhaps twice
a week, ten or twenty men hurried on board her,
hardly waiting tiU the planks had been shoved
out ; but they retumed without work, the master
having been obUged to promise his passengers the
job. There were enough auctions even yet, but goods
fetched no prices. 1 stopped that afternoon before
a tent, where a Yankee was seUing a quantity of
rifles and pistols by auction, and was astonished at
hearing the sums he aU but gave them away for.
Small pistols were sold for a doUar and a half
the pair, and good-looking American rifles, that
had cost eight or ten dollars at least In New Y'ork,
for three and four. In fact, things had altered in a
most extraordinary manner, for an iramense num-

ROUND THE WORLD. 275
ber of workmen seeraed to have been thrown, by
the rainy season, back upon the towns, and every
body, wherever we inquired, told us the same
tale — it was nearly an impossibUity now to get any
work at aU in the place.
Although provisions were a great deal cheaper
here than in the raines, they maintained, notwith
standing, a very good price ; and in the boarding-
houses they asked three doUars and a half per day '
for board and lodging — calling lodging the cover
of the roof, for you had to sleep upon the floor in
your own blankets. A single meal was one dollar
and a quarter. For us to live at such a rate, with
out being able to get employment, was entirely
out of the question : our sick man had to be
placed in comfortable lodgings, as far as they could
be got up here ; and though it was possible to pay
such a sum for one man, we could never have
managed it for more.
The two brothers Meyer, however, determined
on going down to San Francisco with the first
steamer, where they had money and friends to pay
their passage afterwards ; whUe Huhne and myself
gave our sick man in charge of the hostess, a little
kind-hearted Pennsylvanian woman, and leaving
aU our things in the tent as a kind of security,
we shouldered our blankets to look for work of
some sort or another. After having tried in va n
for this purpose nearly every house in Sacramento,

276 FIVE years' journey
we went four mUes farther down the river to
SuttersvUle, but without any better success; and
hearing that an old Dutchraan lived on the other
side of the Sacramento, an old settler and owner
of an immense tract of country, we determined on
going and seeing him, as we were told he had
a good many wood-cutters in his employ.
Mr. Swartz, as the Americans caUed him, was
fortunately at horae ; and from the description of aU
his possessions in land and cattle that I had heard
at Sacramento, I had thought him an immensely
rich gentleman. The reader may judge, therefore,
of our astonishment when we reached the spot,
and found, instead of a comfortable buUding —
house and garden, and farmyard, as I had most
certainly expected — a low dirty hovel, and Mr.
Swartz himself suiting the place exactly, and sitting,
a great deal farther than three sheets In the wind,
before a couple of bottles of most abominable gin.
But he was a character, and on hearing him talk,
I reaUy did not know at first, and in fact could
not guess, what language he spoke, though I
understood the sense of what he said ; and It was
not till after about half an hour's conversation,
and when the eai- had got accustomed to the
strange sounds and words, that I found he was
talking a most wonderful mixture of his own,
composed of Dutch, English, and German, and
a vague suspicion arose at the same time in my

ROUND THE WORLD. 277
mind that some Indian words slipped in between
the rest — Huhne, in fact, thought he was speaking
Indian entirely. As it seemed, he had formed
this dialect for his own accommodation, for con
tinually having around him representatives of these
different nations, it would have been a perfect
torment to talk to them all in their different
tongues. In this mixture, however, each of them
could find words enough of his own language
to serve him, and those who Uved with him proved,
through their understanding this composition, his
practical invention had acquired his language,
which in the end came to the same thing.
That evening an Englishman came to see Mr.
Swartz on some business, and I had a fair chance
of hearing the old Dutchman (but he belonged to
the lowest class of that nation) in the fuU flow of
his eloquence, and admiring his philology. When
he coraraenced playing upon the stranger that
part of his lingo which had the most English words
in it, the latter started and looked at him ; then
after hstening a little while with reaUy painful
attention, he seemed to understand a part of what
was said to him, and answered accordingly; but
finding at last that it would not do, he asked Mr,
Swartz to talk English with him, " he didn't under
stand Dutch enough, though some words really
sounded very much like English."
Mr. Swartz, without being the least disconcerted.

278 FIVE years' journey
and having expended aU the English upon him that
he could muster, commenced now in what he him
self called his own language. For a few minutes
the conversation was maintained in this, but it
seemed worse than ever for the poor Englishman,
who sat there with his mouth open and staring at
the speaker, giving it up at last in despair, and
begged Mr. Swartz, with an apology, to speak
Dutch again, as he had done before, as he could
understand that a " leetle " better than the
EngUsh. But in spite of Mr. Swartz's originality, he had
no work for us, having, as he told us next morn
ing — for that night he seemed more inclined to
drink than to talk — already a very large quantity
of wood stacked up on his lands, awaiting the boats
to take it down to San Francisco ; if that sold well,
he would have no objection to cut some more, but
not before.
What to do now we did not know, but going
back to Sacramento, and grumbling about the
miserable state of business at present, we heard of
some wood-cutters in the bottom lands between
SuttersviUe and Sacramento city ; and leaving the
road to see what work those men did, and how they
got paid for it, we foUowed a small path leading
through the timber, and soon found ourselves In
the very midst of the wood-choppers, who were
feUing trees on all sides, managing things, as it

ROUND THE WORLD. 279
seemed, upon their own hands, and setting up
cord-wood " on theu- own hook," as they said.
As we soon learned, aU these men were cutting
trees down on Uncle Sam's territory, not caring
a straw who might claira the ground, or the trees
upon it, though a great many did. Oak-wood was
worth at this time about fifteen doUars a cord in
Sacramento city ; carriage was eight dollars the
cord, for a distance of hardly two mUes on a per
fect level road ; so there was about seven doUars
left for the wood itself, certainly a very fair price,
for a good workman could set up a cord very
easily in a day. On inquiring, we learnt from the
wood-cutters themselves that wood was a very good
article at present, there being not the least danger
in the world of our not seUing the cord for cash,
if we only first set it up, and we were sure of
getting seven doUars ; but even if we did not wish
to run the risk, we could get five dollars and a
half from some of the wood-cutters themselves
here. There was a chance 1 Bidding good-bye to the
friendly fellows who had given us such good advice,
we hastened towards town, to commence our work
as soon as possible, not to get too much in debt
through our sick man, and even found, before we left
the bottom, an EngUshman, who had some hands
employed in wood-cutting, and wanted us to set
up for him three cords, seven dollars a cord ; he

280 FIVE years' journey
even offered to lend us an axe at first starting. In
town I took my gun Into an iron-ware room, and
left It there as security for another axe with a
handle, the handle alone costing two doUars, the
axe two and a half; and at it we went in good
earnest. The first few days we got on very slowly, Huhne,
never having handled an axe in his life, had to
learn first how to use it to best advantage and
without danger to himself, for an axe is an awk
ward and a dangerous tool for a raw hand to
handle ; but on the third day we had sat up a
cord and a half between us, and commenced earn
ing money instead of getting deeper into debt
every day.
But who were the real owners of this soU and
wood ? Nobody knew — in fact, nobody cared — at
least, among the wood-cutters themselves, though
there were in Sacramento city several Americans
who claimed a right to the soU, and even stuck up
printed bUls on the trees, aU over the bottom,
warning the wood-cutters, and assuring them of
heavy fines If they persevered in their unlawful
deeds. The wood-cutters did not molest these biUs,
but cut dovvn the trees on which they were pasted,
and fastened them In derision upon their own cords.
1 do not know how it was with the land at that
time, and in fact very few men did, but I have not
the least doubt It had been taken up by somebody.

ROUND THE WORLD. 281
and probably everything done to secure him In
after-time the ownership, when things commenced
becoming a Uttle better regulated; but as it was
now, nobody knew who was master or who servant,
and squatters commenced knocking up smaU
cabins or shantees everywhere, and claiming the
nearest hundred and sixty acres by the American
right of pre-emption.
At the same time, a meeting was held in Sacra
mento, the squatters' meeting, as they caUed it,
against the unlawfiil, unnatural claims of land
owners. Large biUs were posted all over town, and
on the appointed evening an immense log-fire was
kindled on the bank of the Sacramento, just oppo
site the City Hotel, where a kind of scaffold was
also erected for the speakers, with a large American
flag waving over it,
I was of course present, warming my back
among the multitude against the immense flre, and
listening, at the same time, to the unripe, un
practical speeches of mere boys, who got up and
spoke for hours of things they knew nothing about.
The mob — for I reaUy do not know another narae
for it — had neither law nor reason on its side in
claiming pieces of ground which had had a right
ful owner even before they ever thought of going
5 to California, for they denied Sutter himself the
right of possessing property in Sacramento city,
while they claimed it for themselves ; but the truth

282 FIVE years' journey
was, they wanted a property, a piece of ground here
of their own, which they did not like stealing
openly ; and in order to have now a so-caUed just
excuse for the deed, they brought forward the old
nonsense of the common American stump-speeches,
which you can. hear in the States at election-time
fifty times a-day. Boys, whose beards had never
seen the first razor, climbed up upon the speakers'
bench, the third word they uttered being the
" glorious flag," and the fourth sentence " the
blood their forefathers had shed to maintain their
rights," repeating over and over again old stories
nobody thought of denying or contradicting ; and
a party of loafers standing at a distance round the
fire, only near enough to hear the loudly-screamed
catchword, wovdd then break out in haUoos and
hurrahs that frequently lasted five minutes.
The glorious flag received that night at least
thirty times three, and even three times three more
cheers, and hip, hip, hip, hurrahs, just according
to circumstances, and the speakers took the greatest
pains imaginable to prove the honour of the flag
under which they sought to hide their own iUegal
actions. FinaUy, they came to a resolution that the
rights and claims of the so-caUed landowners —
viz., Sutter and others who had thought up to
that tirae they were reaUy proprietors, were nuU
and void, and each citizen of the United States

ROUND THE WORLD. 283
could squat down now on any piece of ground he
saw fit, and claim his quarter-section, as a com
mencement. To meet such unjust demands with the sarae
weapons, the landowners also held a meeting in
one of the hotels ; but the squatters — that is, aU
the loafers from the neighbourhood — in order to
prove, I fancy, that they were also free and inde-
pendent citizens, forced an entrance, and broke
up the meeting by howling and hissing. But
every nation has its fair share of scoundrels.
Next evening there was another squatter meet
ing ; and nearly every night there was some
tumult or noise In the street. At the sarae time.
Captain Sutter had a biU posted in Sacramento,
by his agents, Brannan and Co., warning aU the
squatters against buUding huts and tents between
two certain streets in Sacramento city, as Captain
Sutter himself, the first squatter, had claimed that
soU as his one hundred and sixty acres, and every
body who continued there in spite of the warning,
would have to pay a very heavy rent.
Things went on in this way for a good whUe,
tiU after I left Sacramento city, when one day the
independent squatters became rather too inde
pendent, and shooting the sheriff, who was sent
out to restore order, down frora his horse, the
citizens theraselves rose up against them, and
scattered them over the country.

284 five years' journey
Only the wood-cutters profited by this unset
tled state of landed property, for nobody troubled
them — in fact, nobody was certain about the
boundaries of particular claims, or about the claims
themselves ; and even those who pretended to own
the land, bought their wood from the wood-cutters,
or sent some hands out themselves to cut down
whatever they needed, and wherever they could
get it.
But whUe we were working here, out in the
woods, we wanted some kind of shelter ; the last few
nights had been clear, but clouds were again rising
in the west, and we therefore determined on buUd
ing a kind of ground-hole or hut, with every
comfort bush and earth could offer. Digging
accordingly into the slope of the bank, to get a
back waU and a fire-place, we set up a quantity of
poles, about ten feet long, with their ends together,
aU resting In the middle upon a centre pole or
rafter, supported by two large forks, in the shape
of a tent, and covering the whole first with a thick
layer of bushes, and afterwards, Indian fashion,
with hard-beaten ground, we soon had our winter
residence in order. Before the entrance v,'e hung
up an old oil-cloth of mine, and the fire-place
being finished off with an old flour-barrel, with
both ends knocked out, and a piece of plank
fastened as a raantel-plece over the fire, we lay that
night, while the rain poured down, as dry as if we

round the world. 285
had had the best tUe roof over us. It is trae the
hut we had raised was poor enough, and darap and
dirty : in Germany I would have thought twice
about even letting ray Newfoundland dog sleep in
it ; but here, it was a palace, after what we had
suffered during the last four weeks ; and a bottle
of charapagne in the grandest party of the Old
World never tasted so good to me, or was imbibed
with so much relish, as the whiskey-toddy Huhne
and I drank that evening in celebration of our
entrance into that low and damp hovel.
Our sick saUor-boy had improved a little by
rest and good living, but not enough to be out of
danger, and I wanted to speak to a doctor about
him. There was one of our countrymen at the
time in Sacramento city, a Dr. Irraler, just anived
from Germany, and our Uttle apothecary went to
see him on behalf of the sick man. Mr. Irraler
though wanted a house buUt ; and after exaraining
tbe patient, he told hira he had the scurvy, and
must have a bottle of his medicine, price four
doUars ; without that, he would go to the grave,
and there was no help for him ; but, as he was
poor, he would give him the medicine gratis, if he
would stay with hira, and help him to buUd his
house. And this mean fellow, who asked a man who
reaUy died hardly eleven days afterwards, to work
for him, and receive in payment a bottle of his

286 FIVE years' journey
quack medicine, caUed himself a German doctor.
I would not have gmdged him the " doctor," but I
reaUy felt ashamed of his being a German.
At the same time, the landlord of the boarding-
house — also a German — declared he could not
keep the sick man in his tent, because he drove
away his healthy customers, who were much more
profitable to him ; for of course the invaUd was
not aUowed to drink spirituous Uquors, except a
glass of wine sometiraes. But that was not aU :
no other boarding-house in town would receive
him, though I went from house to house, boarding
being, in fact, the same price with all of thera —
three doUars and a half a day. The proprietors
of one of the garabUng-houses at last offered to
give hira a place in their loft ; but there was a
continual noise of a couple of trumpets, horns,
and drums, kept up In it fi-om ten o'clock in the
moming till sometimes twelve and one o'clock at
night, and no healthy man could have stood it,
much less a sick one. At last, sorae Germans,
who had corae over with him in the same vessel,
offered him a place in their tent, where he had at
least a shelter, whUe he could get from the board
ing-house close by what food he needed. -
These three Germans were musicians, and they
had made an agreement with a proprietor of one
of the gambling-houses to play there in the morn
ing two or three, and in the evening four hours ;

ROUND THE WORLD. 287
one of them played the flute exceedingly well, the
other two accorapanied him on the guitar. How
they executed their pieces seemed, in fact, all the
same, as the Americans said theraselves they only
wanted a noise ; and as these heUs in some streets
stood house by house, or rather tent by tent, the
reader raay judge what a deafening raass of sounds
continually floated through the air.
By Monday, the 10th of December, Huhne and
I had paid all our own and the sick man's debts ;
and knowing him to be in good hands for at least
the next one or two weeks, I determined on
going down to San Francisco, and accepting the
friendly invitation of some feUow-passengers, the
Messrs, von Witzleben, who had established a
brewery on the Mission Dolores, about three mUes
distant from San Francisco. At the same time, I
could find a place for our saUor, who would get
weU, I had not the least doubt, as soon as he
could obtain good medicine and the necessary
accomraodations. But he needed none of them
long, for I had hardly left Sacramento city when
he died. Poor feUow ! how were the dreams now
realised with which he had come to this golden
land ? A smaU cold grave was dug for him, and
far away from his home and friends he sleeps in
the ground it had been his ambition to reach.

288 FIVE years' JOURNEY

CHAPTER IV.
MISSION DOLORES.
The steamer I went down with to San Fran
cisco was the ' Senator,' one of the largest, and,
in fact, the largest boat, then running either
on the Sacramento or Joaquin River. The pas
sage was a trip of about sixteen hours, and cost
twenty-five doUars, without bed or food. Those
boats gained an immense quantity of money at
that time, and they were alwav s crowded with pas
sengers and freight.
We reached San Francisco late in tbe evening
in very bad weather, so we had to drop our anchor,
and wait tiU dayUght to thread our way through
the shipping. That night a storm raged, several
vessels were wrecked outside the harbour, and in
town three or four houses feU down. People even
talked of some shocks which they had felt Uke an
earthquake, but I slept aU night as soundly as pos
sible under one of the cabin-tables, roUed up in ray
blanket, and only woke when the rattUng of the heavy

ROUND THE WORLD. 289
chain on deck told me that day had dawned. We
dropped anchor again near the wharf, and had
to pay another dollar per head to be carried over
to the landing.
But what a change had come over San Fran
cisco, I had left tents, and low huts, and shantees,
only two months before, and there were now
regular streets of high wooden, and even here and
there, brick buildings ; but if the habitations had
improved, the streets had become proportionately
worse. In October, not a drop of rain had faUen,
and the streets were hard and dry. Now they
seemed to be only a liquid and moving mass of
soft, chocolate-coloured mud. In going from one
house to another you had to wade through it, and
crossing a street seemed a raatter of life and
death. Many places became really impassable,
and in Clay and Montgomery Street, raules were
several times drowned in the middle of the road.
Necessity, however, is the mother of invention,
and the inhabitants of San Francisco had com
menced forming a perfectly new kind of trottoir,
so that they could pass where these had been laid,
in a comparatively dry state, from one house to
another. These consisted of small pieces of wood
— old staves decidedly having the preference —
which were fastened upon cross-pieces that rested
on pUes. In such places a man could walk dry, and
with the pleasant feeling of having a sure footing
VOL. I. o

290 FIVE years' journey
as long as they lasted ; but they did not do much
good as yet, for where they ended, you had to
jump down in the mud again, and deUver yourself,
without discretion, to the mercy of the softest
place you could pick out from above. No wonder
high water-boots cost, at that time, as rauch as two
hundred dollars a pair ; and one hundred and
twenty doUars was, for several raonths, the regular
price. San Francisco seeraed also to be crowded with
labourers, who had sought the shelter of the town,
preferring a smaller, but surer gain to the uncer
tain toil of gold-digging in the wet mountains.
But San Francisco also offered them a larger field,
the town itself employing a great many labourers
in iraproving, as far as they could, the state of the
streets, and the shipping required a good raany
hands. But as I did not intend to go to work again, as
I had done in Sacramento, when I was obUged to
provide for the sick man, I changed, before aU
other things, my dress — and I could have caUed it
more properly rags — for dry clothing, and then
went out to the Mission Dolores, which lay about
three mUes distant from the city and towai-ds the
south, upon the smaU strip of land which forms a
kind of long peninsula between the Bay of San
Francisco and the Pacific Ocean. The road led at
that time through a perfect desert of sandy hiUs,

ROUND THE WORLD. 291
partly overgrown with low, stunted oaks and
laurels ; and the mission Itself, as the old church
and about twenty or twenty-five low stone huts
were called, seeraed to be chiefly inhabited by
Spaniards and Indians. Only here and there
Americans had commenced settling among them,
without having built as yet a single house of their
own. They only paid a rent for what they inha
bited to the Spaniards or Californians, and there
fore the whole place had nearly entirely retained its
original character.
The Mission Dolores, or the original building
which contained the church and the habitation of
the priests, was an old crazy adobe building, and
had, when gold was first discovered in California,
been almost uninhabited, except by some Indians,
who lived, or rather camped, in the old dark and
damp rooms, using them, at the sarae time, for
parlour and stable. But if one of those old
priests who sleep their long, long sleep in the little
graveyard of that once so lonely place beneath
crumbling mound and a half-rotten head-board in
the form of a cross, should get up now and see
what a change only a few years — ay, even raonths
— have brought over the sanctuary of forraer days,
would he not clasp his bony hands in mute
astonishraent and dread at the sacrilege the
worse than heathens had committed in this holy
buUding.
o 2

292 FIVE years' JOURNEY
The reader may picture to himself a large mass
of adobe walls, forming a square of closely-con
nected houses about two hundred and fifty yards
each way, with a large open court-yard in the
centre. The church decidedly formed the main
or, at least, most prominent part of the whole
buUding. It was a high, lofty room, with a
couple of rough piUars of unburnt bricks as a kind
of ornament on both sides of the entrance, the
altar covered with aU raanner of bouquets, and
wreaths, and figures of saints and raartyrs. The
priest hiraself had been, up to the golden time
nearly, the sole occupant of the whole buUding ;
but speculative Yankees, as weU as other
foreigners, were now taking possession of a large
part of the forraerly unoccupied rooms ; and
spreading farther and farther, as they needed more
room, or thought they could claira It, the priest
was crowded back into three or four smaU rooms,
while the rest of the building had found as motley
a group of occupants as any church could
desire. Opposite to the priest's rooras, three Gerraans,
whom I mentioned before, rented a part of the wing
for their brewery, using the garret or loft to keep
their barley and malt in ; while even a part of this
garret, only divided frora the malt-loft by a piece
of stretched calico, was occupied as an hospital,
under the care of some Argentine doctor. The

ROUND THE WORLD, 293
sick up here were nearly all Mexicans or Spaniards
frora ChUi, the Argentine republic, and other old
Spanish colonies, who fiUed tbe loft with their
groans and the graveyard with their bodies.
Close to the brewery there 'was an hotel, or rather
boarding-house, where dances were held twice
every week, or at least every Sunday evening, this
hotel being connected with an older grog-shop and
garabllng-house round the corner, with the sign of
the BuU's Head. Besides this, there were in the
front part of the buUding, five or six private habi
tations. As the people squatted everywhere on Mission
land, the priest had gone to law about it, clairalng
aU that district around there as church ground,
but even that would do him no good. He lost
his law-suit, and disappeared entirely one morning
from his lodgings, never to be seen again at the
Mission Dolores.
The Mission is situated very prettily on the
head of a little bay, which juts in here from the
large one towards the coast range, having a most
exceUent and good entrance, and some good land
ing-places for boats, though the channel is rather
shallow at low water, and could not be passed at
lowest tide by loaded boats. There is a splendid
view towards the opposite coast, with a part of the
cultivated land on this shore, a smaU sheet of
water of the large bay itself visible, and the high

294 FIVE years' journey
opposite coast, one part of the ridge being crowned
with a thicket of splendid cedar or redwood-trees,
and Mount Diavolo with its snowy peak peering
over it. The hUls round the Mission itself — at
least, those between the sea-coast and the southern
pass — are entirely naked, only covered vvith fine
grass after the rainy season had set in ; but
towards San Francisco, the sandy undulating
ridges are generaUy covered, as I said before, with
stunted oaks of a dark-green colour, through
•'which the white sandy bottom shines out afar.
The sea itself was about four miles distant, and
we could plainly hear the breakers as they threw
themselves in sport and anger against the rocky,
rugged coast.
After finishing, in one room of the old crazy
buUding, my correspondence for Germany, I had
plenty of time to look about ; and my special
wish was to see and become acquainted with the
habits of Californians, or Spaniards, themselves, as
the Americans caUed them. The fandango seemed
to me, in this respect, the most national amuse
ment, and I visited it several times ; but I must
acknowledge my expectations were disappointed.
There may exist different kinds, though I never
saw any other but that one, which seemed to me
rather a monotonous and dull affair — young ladies
walking and gliding about with downcast eyes and
raincing steps, and putting down their pretty Uttle

ROUND THE WORLD, 295
feet as carefuUy as if they were stepping araong
eggs, and did not want to break them. The
musicians and spectators alone — just those parties
who, in our country, keep cool whUe others dance
— seemed to grow excited ; the guitar-players,
who nearly always sing the raelody at the sarae
time, and seem to be also improvisatores, adapting
the words to the persons who happen to be on the
floor, screaming theraselves into a perfect excite
ment, whUe the spectators applaud, and laugh,
and stamp, and scream in pure delight tUl some
particularly admired lady steps into the ring and is
received with loud and admiring bravos, the
players then always comraencing a rauch livelier
tune. But the spectators do not content themselves
with raere acclaraatlons. They have a far more
practical way of showing their admiration to the
lady, for they throw money into the ring to her.
Half-doUars and doUars, even ounces, I have seen
thrown to some very favourite young lady, who is
then obliged to pick up the coins herself, for it
would be the greatest insult to the donor if she
aUowed any one else to do it for her.
They have other strange customs with this fan
dango, for instance, the egg-breaking between
Shrove Tuesday and Easter. I was standing one
night with the rest, looking at a couple of young
girls — neighbours of ours — who were really

296 FIVE years' journey
moving about with much ease and grace, while an
old Spaniard, the brother of our nearest neigh
bour, whom we used to caU on that account, " the
brother-in-law," had already screamed himself
hoarse in pure deUght, when suddenly a young
Californian, the owner of a large rancho not far
frora San Jose, who was standing close by my
side, reached out his arm as one of the girls
carae in the dance near us, and crushed soraething
upon her head, I could not see what it was, but
I could hear It break. The sefiorita, however,
did not seem to mind It at aU ; but on feeUng the
touch, and without stopping the dance for a
moment, she merely bent her head sUghtly for
wards, and something, whatever it was, gUded
down her smoothly-combed hair ; and while she
passed her handkerchief lightly over her head, she
moved, with a smUe, over to the other side of the
ring. The thing itseff had faUen down before me, and
I was rather astonished on beholding nothing more
nor less than a raw egg — raost certainly a singular
way of showing a lady your admiration. These
eggs frequently are emptied, then fiUed with eau-
de-Cologne, and cemented again at both ends, and
our sefiorita took her revenge in a slraUar manner.
The dance was not concluded, and two other
sefioritas were just stepping up to continue the
sarae fandango, when I felt my arm sUghtly and
carefuUy touched. On slowlv turning my head, I

ROUND THE WORLD. 297
saw the young lady, who raotioned to me to make
a little room for her, not to be noticed. I left my
neighbour as softly as I could, and while she
reached up and disappeared, nearly at the same
moment, behind some others, who stepped
directly into their old places, the young ranchero
cried out loudly, and rather In pain than plea
sure, for the sharp eau-de-Cologne had mn down
into his eyes, and he was laughed at into the
bargain. Another jest, also a kind of poUteness, or rather
courtship to ladies, is the rather indelicate cap-
stealing. If a lady is dancing, somebody tries to
steal unobserved, behind a spectator, and grasp
his cap, which before the owner, who runs after
it, can recover it, is placed upon the head of the
dancing and probably favourite lady. From that
moment the owner is not aUowed to touch it
again tUl the dance is flnished, and then he Is
obliged to ransom it for at least a dollar.
That same evening some Spaniard took the
cap from the head of a young Dutch saUor — a
smart little fellow, who knew very weU he would
have to pay a doUar for the joke ; and calculating
in his mind that he could get a new China cap for
the same amount in town, he tried to slip away,
and leave the lady with the old cap in her lap.
But other eyes watched him ; and as that would
have been the greatest insult to the lady, the poor
o 3

298 FIVE years' journey
feUow had hardly displayed his evU intention,
when he saw himself sunounded by a crowd of
threatening faces, and he had no choice but to
buy his old cap back again from the smiUng beauty.
California is the land for money at any rate.
Easter came In the meantime, and the Spaniards
made great preparations everywhere, on Easter
Sunday even having a fandango in church ; and
afterwards Judas Iscariot (an old stuffed figure, to
dress which, they had stolen aU the clothing they
could get fro'm heretics, and the gentleman also
had a handkerchief of mine round his neck) was
tied to a newly-caught wild mare, and chased
and driven through the settlement, amidst the
screaming haUoos and shouts of wUd Indians, and
even wilder Christians.
The principal person in this festivity was a
Californian Indian, Valentin, the best horseman
and lasso-thrower even among the Spaniards, and
as fine a specimen of an Indian as I ever saw.
He was taU and rather slender, but, notwithstand
ing, stoutly buUt, vvith the long black and smooth
hair of his tribe, and dark glowing eyes. I never
saw him on foot but when he was drunk, and pity
for him that ha})pcned so often ; but as he was
the best hand in the neighbourhood In tracking
a runaway horse or stray cattle, and bringing them
in dead or alive, if he had once undertaken it,
everybody ncai-ly required his services, and they aU

round the world, 299
knew brandy was the best recompense for them —
the cheapest to the giver, and the most pleasant to
the receiver.
This Valentin had to fasten the clumsily-stuffed
figure upon the back of the wild mare, and it
was reaUy a beautiful spectacle to see the cunning
Indian overcorae the kicking and rearing animal.
He had not touched a drop of liquor that whole
day, and acquitted himself exceedingly well; but
when I passed the hotel that evening, the fine
and nobly-forraed Indian, whom I had adraired
in his wUd beauty during the day, was lying dead
drunk under an old ox-cart upon his back, his feet
stemmed against the axletree, and his head resting
upon an old yoke which had been thrown under
there. At his left side an empty brandy-bottle
showed what he had done, and in his right hand
he held another, stUl half full.
" Dice que me quieres,"
he sung, or rather stammered, with heavy tongue,
and tried to throw a glance on the bottle — the
foam was upon his lips.
" Dice que me quieres, Caramba,
Can el corazon —
Dice que — huzza cavallita I"
he suddenly burst out, dreaming himself still on
his wUd chase after the poor beast of a mare, which
they had driven with the mad figure of Judas

300 FIVE years' journey
Iscariot dangling to its back, into the mountains.
" Huzza ! huzza 1 guardase, huzza !" and the wUd
exclamations, breaking off into an inarticulated,
unearthly scream, were foUowed by a perfect flood
of angry words in the Indian tongue. He wanted
to lift, after this, the bottle once more to his mouth,
hut he was not able to drink, and whUe the sharp
brandy ran over his neck and face, he shut his
glassy eyes, and soon lay motionless and senseless
In deep sleep.
Spirituous liquors have klUed more raen than
powder and lead ever did !
But Valentin was not the only character worth
mentioning in the Mission, though he was the
only Indian really respected by the whites — as long
as he kept sober, of course.
Amongst the whites, every part of the world
seemed to have sent to California some odd
specimen of Its curiosities in mankind, and I
found a number of them principally among my
own countrymen. The most of these, however,
had come with the first volunteers, and even
before gold had been discovered in California,
from the States — Uncle Sam having sent them
out rather on speculation. These volunteers — and,
rather singuliuly, the greater part of them Gerraans,
were but adventurers, who had nothing to lose in the
world but their lives, and they knew exactly the value

ROUND THE WORLD, 301
of them. The United States must have regarded
them as lost at that time, for it is impossible they
could think a handful of such " food for powder "
would be able to conquer a whole, and even very
extensive state ; but if the Spaniards kUled them,
government had then a just excuse to avenge its
citizens. Those few mad-caps, however, cut off
from aU succour, and finding themselves rather In
a scrape, aided at the same time by the fearless
heart of the adventurous and daring Fremont,
with a troop of trappers and hunters, really took
possession of the forts, and kept them till the
States first, and afterwards the citizens of the
whole world, sent over their masses of people to
hold the country against everything California
itself or Mexico could afterwards effect.
Of these volunteers, when the gold had been
once discovered, crowds deserted, leaving the
officers to follow them, and the forts to themselves.
Most of thera also discovered the richest mines ;
thus, for instance, SuUivan's Creek, one of the
richest places in the whole region, was discovered
by some of Sullivan's dragoons ; the Mormon
Gulch, Carson's Creek, the Rich Gulch, and many
more, by others. But these men seemed to have
thought — and. In fact, they affirmed it them
selves — that these rich placers would never be
exhausted. As soon as they gained money
then, and sometimes five, six, or more ounces in

302 five years' journey
a day, they threw it away again ui champagne and
other luxuries, which they had forraerly never
thought of, expecting the next day to furnish new
gold. Thus they lived In a perfect trance — a kind
of intoxication of golden dreams — tUl more and
more gold-diggers flocked In, and fiUed the gulches
and ravines, and as they occupied those places
where there was the least sign of gold, the precious
metal became scarcer every day ; and these old
diggers, not wiUing to acknowledge such a fact,
now crossed over from one river to another,
commencing here and there to search for such
spots as they had found before, and giving It up
as soon as the place would not pay, tUl they
themselves could not pay anything more, and
found themselves at last obliged to work with the
rest for whatever they could get, when they had
to be satisfied with two and three doUars a-day,
though they had formerly spurned a place that had
not yielded them as many ounces.
Plenty of these men were now in San Francisco,
and also at the Mission Dolores, working for what
they could get, merely to gain their living during
the rainy season.
But some interesting settlers of former times
also Uved in the neighbourhood, amongst them
especiaUy an old German, who had come to CaU
fornia twenty or twenty-five years before, and served
in the late American war — aind though he did not

ROUND THE WORLD. 303
like to acknowledge it himself, it was generaUy
known — as a spy to the Americans, and, I really
believe, to the CaUfornians at the same time. He
was hand and glove with the old priest at least,
as long as he lived in the Mission, always gliding
about with a dark coat and darker face, broad-
brimmed hat, and squinting eyes, never talking
much about the past, and only thawing, as it were,
after half a bottle of brandy, the enjoyment of
which he could not withstand. Many a word
then escaped his lips which he would never have
suffered to pass in a state of consciousness, words'
that told of dark deeds and actions ; and after
such a spree, as if afraid to trust himself any
longer among his ellow-men, he always disap
peared for several days, and on returning he was
the same sly old fox again, gliding about and
watching with careful eye what passed around
him. Runaway seamen, principaUy from whalers,
abounded, also deserters from the Mexican war ;
and I am sure there never was and never will be
such a country and such a time again, where all
stages of society and such a variety of characters
wUl be mixed up in a similar way, as at that time
in California. Let there be ever so much gold
discovered in other parts of the world, all these
characters could only be coUected once in one
single spot ; and though a good many of them wIU

304 FIVE years' JOURNEY
emigrate, they wUl never find themselves together
again. Among the festivities of these days there was
a marriage between an American and a CaU-
fornian lady, but this union was talked about a
good deal, the old CaUfornians being angry enough
about it. They do not like their conquerors, and,
seeing every day new masses of them flocking in,
the feeling that it would be perfect madness only
to think about trying to regain their lost country,
seems to make them only hate them the more.
Even during my residence at the Mission, several
murders were committed on the short road between
that place and San Francisco, or Yerba Buena
(Peppermint) as the old CaUfomians call the place.
The murdered men were aU Americans, and two
of the bodies were found with innumerable wounds
all over them, the murderer seeming to have sati
ated his bloody thirst for revenge bv running his
knife again and again in the already lifeless corpse.
The American and the young Californian lady
were married in the true native, but rather singular
style, the priest coupUng the pan- in good earnest
by tying them together hard and fast with a silken
rope, when they knelt before the altar, and covering
them with a large cloth, left them under it tlU the
whole ceremony was over.
The American had of course to become a
Roman Catholic, but no matter — he got his wife ;

ROUND THE WORLD, 305
but another American fared far worse in that re
spect in Valparaiso, where he also courted a ChUean
lady, and was told by his beloved and her priest
that she would marry him if he became a Roman
Catholic, He agreed to that, and going through
all the necessary ceremonies, even holding out a
probation time, I do not know how long, thought
himself after this a most excellent Catholic, and
wanted his wife ; but he had not finished yet.
The priest told him that though he had renounced
his old errors, there was too much of the old
leaven left in him yet for him to take a Chris
tian wife tUl that was expeUed ; so, to make sure
of it, he would have to kneel and pray five days
more in some old cloister in the neighbourhood,
and be considered afterwards a pure and true
Christian. And at it he went ; only five days
more, and the ceremonies had already lasted more
than fifteen, so he did everything that was required
and asked of him, repented every sin he had com
mitted before, promised to become a new man, and
left the cloister, where he had fasted and prayed
for five days, as hungry and as good a Christian
as ever existed, to find — the young lady for whom
he had undergone aU these privations married to
another in the meantime. She had only practised
a pious fraud — won him to save his soul, that was
all ; and he could not even complain to anybody
about it, for fear of being laughed at.

306 FIVE years' JOURNEY
We had, down to the last days of Febmary, and
even the first of March, showers of rain regularly
every day, sometimes even perfect faUs of rain that
lasted a whole week and longer, but the weather
seemed to clear up a little more now, the sun gain
ing more power every day. The hills were clothed in
a lively green, even the last snow had melted from
the opposite coast, and spring, beautiful spring,
exhaled its genial breath from southem climes.
But as Ufe and growth quickened, and fermented
in the veins of the plants and In the arteries
of nature itself, as the buds sweUed, and sweet
Uttle spring flowers peered out from the stUl cold
ground to look how the world fared this year, so
in man — In those thousands who were driven
during the rainy season into the shelter of the
warmer towns — a new spirit seemed to rise and
grow. Three days' sunshine, and men who ac
cepted only a few dajs before the lowest wages,
merely to live, refused splendid offers, sold or
threw away what they had saved up to tlus minute
from the wreck of their former property, and pre
pared for a start into the mines, acting, frequently
as if their life all at once depended on an hour's
longer stay In town. Tents, vvhich they themselves
had sold at the last faU in the mountains for ten
and twelve doUars, only to get rid of them, they
bought again for fifty and sixty, to pack them up
once raore. Tin pans, blankets, and provisions

ROUND THE WORLD, 307
rose in price ; and raules nobody hardly would have
during the winter, became the most favourite and
sought-for articles.
And to which raines do these thousands flock,
who are ready for a start whUe the ground is not
yet dry frora the last rains, and another speU of
wet weather — as really happened — might set in
every hour? The richest, of course, ought to
attract the most gold-finders to their gulches — but
which of them are the richest ? Nobody can teU,
for if you beUeve the accounts you read in the
papers, there is not a spot in the whole mountains
where, on striking your pick down, you can faU
hitting on a lump. One day a report comes down
from the Yuba of the gold-diggers earning there
on an average one or two ounces daily. The next
story is from the Stanislaus, of sorae one having
lit on a lump of I do not know how many pounds
troy weight ; next they teU of new mines discovered
in the coast range, and soon afterwards mysterious
accounts are current of a gold lake having been dis
covered by some hunters in the northern diggings.
To raake things worse, the first accounts of
Trinidad Bay arrived just at this time.
" Several degrees farther north a new bay, caUed
the Trinidad, has been discovered, and several men,
who landed there from a schooner, washed out
thousands of dollars in a few hours." This notice
in one of the San Francisco papers played the mis-

308 FIVE years' JOURNEY
chief with many a poor feUow, who really could
not lose such an opportunity of becoming a rich
man, merely by going a few miles out to sea again.
If you found, frora that time, three men together
In the street, you could make any bet you liked
that one of them was bound for Trinidad, and the
singular fact appeared that people went through the
Golden Gate again to search for gold.
Trinidad Bay reaUy existed, and several schooners
went there to take goods and provisions to the
gold counti-y — to wish afterwards they had stayed
where they were. I pity poor gold-diggers who
foUow the advice of the papers ; they are most
certain to go to the wrong place ; and aU those
who have been once In the mines, and become
acquainted with life and habits there, soon learn
what to think of such advertisements. Where
gold-diggers anywhere in the mountains are
" making good out," as the saying is, you may
depend upon It they do not talk, much less write
about It. They stick to the place, working away
as quietly as they can, and never pretending to
earn much more than their living; but, on the
contrary, where the raines give out, or nothing
new and good has been lately discovered, and the
storekeepers have a quantity of provisions and
other goods they do not know how to sell, there
are always men at leisure to write long and glow
ing accounts of " newly-discovered riches ;" and if

ROUND THE WORLD, 309
they only draw a couple of hundred diggers to the
place — these must live at least while they stay up
there — provisions will be sold, and after a while,
in company vrith these men whom they had enticed
up here, they can leave these " exceedingly rich
places," and hunt for another spot.
But whatever disadvantages such a cheating
system has for individuals who suffer under it, it is
very necessary for the whole welfare of the country.
If those places were really known and faithfully
advertised where the most gold is to be found, all
the thousands who now follow rather a wUd goose
chase over the different raountains and water
courses, would all flock to these few places, and
bloodshed and murder would be the unavoidable
consequence. The population Increased in a nearly incredible
way. From the States alone during the last
three raonths, one hundred and fifty vessels had
started : ten, twelve, and fifteen, sometimes twenty
or twenty-five, arrived every day. A monster
train was expected over the Rocky Mountains ;
and from the north and south the neighbours
also flocked in to the golden harvest. In the
interior itself there seemed to be just at this
time a great many difficulties — Americans and
foreigners had not unfrequently some slight, but
even bloody quarrels with one another. Legally,
foreigners could not be driven out of the mines ;

310 FIVE years' JOURNEY
but what could the law do by itself, where there
was nobody to uphold it ? A crowd of roweUes
might do anything they pleased, and it pleased
thera to do almost anything. Such difficulties
gained, at the same time, a more serious com
plexion by a bUl, brought before the legislature by
one of those thoughtless, miserable beings, who
care not for the world if they can only flatter their
own self-love for a quarter of an hour. This biU
consisted of nothing less than reaUy prohibiting
foreigners from working in the mines ; and though
it could never be put in force — for the proclamation
of it would have been the signal for a regular war
through every part of the mines — the mere rumour
of it passed with lightning speed through aU the
valleys, and caused quarrels and bloodshed.
On my frequent visits to town — for I took the
beer regularly over with the younger Witzleben in
the boat — it was really astonishins to notice the
improvements each single week could show, partly
in the e'rectlon of houses, partly in the improve
raent of the streets. The side-walks of staves
grew, as it seemed, over night, and in some streets
already ran along whole rows of houses ; and
whenever we came in with our boat vve had to
look for another landing-place, for nearly each time
they had buUt a house just in our way, or com-
raenceel erecting a wharf, by driving posts In the
ground, as if to spite us. The streets themselves,

ROUND THE WORLD, 311
though, were as bad as ever, or worse ; for who
could tell their actual state, when raany a place
existed where they had not even been sounded as
yet? As raany an old settler had prophesied, the few
fine days we had in March were soon followed
again by perfect floods of rain ; the Sacraraento
even rose to a greater height than any white man
had yet witnessed, swamping at the same tiriie the
whole town, sweeping houses and tents, goods and
stores, and in fact everything away before it, clear
ing the woods of aU the cut cord-wood, carrying on
its grim sport with haystacks and fences, and di
viding the much-disputed soil into an even allow
ance of water lots. The loss of property was said
to be immense, and many people perished in the
raging flood.
But such changes are of too frequent occurrence
in California to be talked of much after they have
passed ; so what water did for Sacramento city, fire
had done for San Francisco (just on Christmas
Eve) some tirae before. In a few hours a large
space of ground was covered with smoking ashes,
and two days later the stranger might look in vain
for the empty and blackened space which in the
old country would be undisturbed sometimes for
weeks after a large fire, if only to let the
ground get cold again. In three or four days
some of the smaUer buUdings were run up again

312 FIVE years' JOURNEY
and inhabited; the Parker House, one of the
largest buUdings in town, which had cost about
thirty thousand dollars to erect, and which brought
in twelve thousand dollars rent every month — of
course, mostly by innumerable gambling-tables in
the large saloons — was again raised, five days after
wards, and a bargain had been made with the
architect to have it ready for habitation in sixteen
days. But if the town needed enormous sums for its
improvement, it also had an enormous income, and
the custora-house in particular drew extraordmary
quantities of raoney. The officers there were, in
fact, not able any longer to count the sUver, so
they raeasured it first, and afterwards — as even
that could not be done quickly enough — they
weighed the sUver in large scales, using shovels to
¦fill them. And In spite of this there was a great
deal of smuggling going on from nearly all the
ships in the harbour. When once taken from the
vessel, nobody asked any farther about it, even If
you landed fifty boat-loads on any wharf you
pleased. Officers are put on board to see the
freight dischai-ged. and nothing is easier than to
unload whatever you want during night; or, if
skippers do not like to run any risk at all, to pay
these custom-house officers, who have a very smaU
salary, a certain sum, and then do nearly anything
they please. But they must not be too careless.

ROUND THE WORLD. 313
notwithstanding, as only lately three ships were
confiscated, whose masters had calculated rather
too confidently upon the negUgence of the custom
house officers.
Confiscated goods are always sold by pubUc auc
tion ; but the custom-house alone does not bring
them, but also the street commissioners, who from
time to time hold regular auctions of sImUar stores
which they take away in the streets. It was their
business to see the streets cleared of the quantities
of goods, which merchants not unfrequently left at
that time before their houses, because they could
not get them in. The commissioners gave the
owners of goods, in such a case, a certain time to
take their goods away ; and If the latter did not
do it, the former did. They also often found
goods nobody claimed, the costs of transport or
storage amounting to more than the goods were
worth. AU these were sold, and the proceeds used
for street improvements in town.
Houses and lumber arrived in immense quanti
ties ; ready-made buUdings were imported, princi
pally from China, and with Chinamen in the bar
gain. Wherever you saw in the streets a raan on
the top of a little frame-house, naUing up the
shingles, or doing something else to it, you could
bet ten to one it was a Chinese. Large sums were
lost, though, in the timber and lumber trade ; and
whole cargoes sold by auction only to cover the
VOL. I. P

314 FIVE years' journey
freight, did not even fetch half that sometimes,
the transport being so very high from the ship to
the town. A rise in the price of lumber was ex
pected with the next large fire, of which people
spoke, as if it was a thing which must regularly
retum, like suraraer and winter. Provisions rose
and fell, just as vessels came in, or were expected ;
buying and selling was as good as playing at
hazard, or putting one's money upon a monte-
table. The worth of money, therefore, was also
extraordinary. Years were pressed into months,
and interest vvas calculated in the same manner ;
six per cent, per month was the common interest
for money, but ten, twelve, and even more, was
frequently given.
With regard to literary productions there had
been very Uttle done in San Francisco as yet ;
literature was a matter of money Uke everything
else. But there already existed three papers in
the city, the " Alta California," the " Pacific News,"
and a " Comraerclal BuUetin."
Speaking of literature, I may just as weU mention
a book here, which appeai-ed in England, and was
translated nearly into every other language, as
it was the first of the kind : " Four Months among
the Golei-finders in CaUfornia," I believe was the
title, written by Mr. Tyrvritt Brooks. I had
translated it myself into German, and showed a
copy of it afterwarels in San Francisco to Captain

ROUND THE WORLD. 315
Sutter ; but though Mr. Brooks related how
kindly he had been received by Captain Sutter,
and gave at the sarae tirae a rather glowing des
cription of this gentleman's lovely daughter. Cap
tain Sutter knew nothing about him, and another
thing, his family was at that time in Switzerland,
and only came to CaUfornia in 1850. Mr.
Brooks also introduces a dreadful tale of a saUor-
boy whom the Indians scalped, and though it is
very weU related, I ara bound to say the Indians
in California do not scalp at all.
But enough of town life at present, I must
retum here in any case, before I leave CaUfornia
again ; and the reader raay throw his blanket upon
his back, if he has a mind to see the mines, and
take a trip with me to the mountains.

P 2

316 FIVE years' journey

CHAPTER V.
THE MINES, AND THE PEOPLE IN THEM.
On a beautiful spring morning, I started with
a former fellow-passenger by the 'Talisman,' a
man of the name of Henry Boehra, this time for
the southern raines, and not on board a schooner,
but In a smaU steamer, our destination being
Stockton, on the San Joaquin.
The change was nearly incredible, which a few
months had wrought in this bay : three summers
before hardly a small saU disturbed the soUtude
of the quiet sheet of water, now hundreds of
anchors found its bottom, and innumerable sail
ing craft and steamers darted through the
pluughed-up tide ; on its shores towns sprang up
nearly in one night, and steam-engines worked
noisily on the sarae spot where, hardly a year ago,
the Indian followed with careful steps the tracks
of the grizzly bear and elk. But CaUfornia has
also everything that is requisite to work such a
wonderful change ; tirae has been annihilated,

ROUND THE WORLD. 317
workmen are there as raany as the country requires,
and money is furnished by the very men who help
to establish the State. StUl this country is In
an unnatural condition : there is an uninterrupted
yearning for money — money only ; and those who
only Uve for this will probably feel comfortable,
but those who have the least interest in anything
of a higher tendency wIU never raake this country
their home, or, if they do, become like the rest,
machines to coin money out of everything that
comes under their hand, from preaching down to
stealing, and give up any other thoughts.
The boat was a slow one, and it took us exactly
twenty-four hours to reach the little tent town,
where my corapanion, who had some goods with
him, engaged an ox cart at nine cents the pound, to
Murphy's New Diggings, a distance of from eighty
to eighty-five mUes. Freight was cheap now, for
in winter-time they had paid for the sarae distance
sixty, eighty, ninety cents, and even a doUar per
pound. There were carts and mule-droves enough
now to profit by the good state of the roads. The
Mexicans especiaUy, display a great dexterity in
packing mules with everything that is intrusted
to them, and they know not only how to anange
to best advantage flour-bags and smaU barrels
upon the raules, but even fasten on the pack-
sadeUe large square boxes, and single meat-barrels
of about three hundred pounds apiece, without

318 FIVE years' journey
hurting the backs of their mules, and are very
seldom even compeUed to tie it more firmly.
Stockton was a smaU place, not half as large
as Sacramento, though with a position equaUy as
good as that town, and Is certainly destined to
be In future years the third city of the Californian
republic. An old gentleman from the States, a Mr. HUlraan,
as he caUed himself, had his freight and baggage
on the same waggon with us ; and in his company
were two young Americans whom he had engaged,
as we afterwards understood, to help him to work a
quIck-sUver machine, and an Irish sei-vant, Jeremiah
Livingston, commonly caUed for shortness, Jerry,
who seemed to be engaged for any service in
general, and the quIcksUver-machlne in particular.
We all footed it, except Mr. HUlraan, who had
bought a mule for himself in Stockton, and rode it,
with an open umbreUa to keep the sun off, only
changing now and then with Jerry, to sti-etch
his legs, as he caUed it.
Boehm and I had chosen on the first night a
bushy tree, to camp under; but Mr. HiUman,
who carried a tent vvith him, in his kind-hearted
ness, would not idlovv us to sleep out in the open
air, while he had a shelter above him, and room
enough for several more ; so we had to go in,
though, for my own part, I would ten times sooner
have prcfei-reel the fresh mountain-air. But Mr.

round the world. 319
HiUman would not hear of it ; and I soon found
he did not intend to give us only the benefit of
his canvas, but also that of his prayers. Mr.
HiUman was a character, as I soon found out.
When we had laid ourselves down, and whUe
the candle was yet burning, which Jerry had
stuck with some pointed instrument into the
centre post of the tent, Mr. HUlman, who was a
Methodist, suddenly sat up in his bed, and taking
his nightcap off, commenced with close-shut eyes
and much gesticulation, while the dim flare of the
candle threw a ghastly light upon his sharply-cut
features, a long, loud prayer. Mr. Livingston, at
the same time, a Roraan Catholic, but far too
good a raiUer not to set his sweeps with the wind
wherever it blew from, also rose up on his knees
and elbows, and resting his head on his two closed
fists, lay there, only changing the greater part of
the weight sometimes from his right side to his
left, and back again, and patiently awaited the end
of the prayer ; but simultaneously with the Amen
(of which a kind of instinct or long practice seeraed
to give him warning) he rolled over on one of his
sides, commonly the off-side, and without even
stretching himself, went asleep just exactly in the
position he had knelt in. One of the young men
had to get up and blow out the light.
Our road at first lay through a rather mono
tonous plain, overgrown with scattered oaks. These

320 FIVE years' journey
oaks bear a very long and sweet acorn, much re
sembling a nut in taste, and formuig, in fact, the
main winter nourishment of numerous tribes of
Indians. On the 12th of April we reached a little river,
the Calaveres, where we had to unpack all our
load, and take the waggon to pieces to cross over
in a smaU boat. We were approaching the chain
of mountains, which stretched out ahead of us in
a blue ridge, about four o'clock in the aftemexin,
having everything ready again for a new start,
and now entering a more hUly and wooded country,
the landscape acquired a varied and pleasing cha
racter — a wide undulating stretch of prairie-like
country, with little thickets scattered over it, the
background formed by high and darkly-wooded
mountain-ridges. Nature seemed to have decked
herself to-day with her most beautiful charms and
riches. It was as if we had entered the kingdom
of flowers, the ground, as far as eye could reach,
being one vast carpet of the most beautiful colours
heart could wish to see, sweet odours being wafted
at the same time by the light breeze over the
gently-heaving ocean of many-hued waves. Never
in my life had 1 seen anything Uke it ; and none of
us witnessed this wonderful spectacle untouched,
and more than once the thoughts gained words.
Oh ! what would we not give could we send a
bouquet of these beautiful flowers home 1

round the world. 321
Even old Mr. HiUman, who had appeared in a
new character at the ferry, seemed moved, but in
his own way, for he stopped several times (Jerry
now being upon the mule to bring up the rear),
looked at the sweet sight with folded hands, and
admiringly said :
" What a glorious country ! What flowers !
Good Heavens 1 if I had that garden within three
miles of New York, I'd make my twenty doUars
every day out of it !"
But I must flrst mention the new character he
had appeared in. WhUe his men were busUy em
ployed with the freight, and a good raany other
waggoners and passengers for the mines were
standing before the grog-shop which an American
kept here, he suddenly appeared in the crowd
with Jerry, carrying a whole armful of razor-
strops, and began praising thera with such ex
traordinary volubUity, that the by-standers reaUy
forgot strops and everything else in listening to
the funny old razor-strop man, as he called himself,
and I understood, at the sarae time, that he was
known under that name in aU the eastern states of
North America.
He then asked soraebody for a pocket-knife,
and knocking it in the most heedless way, and
much to the discomfiture of the unhappy owner,
with its edge against the iron of the nearest
waggon-wheels, and sorae stones at his feet, and
p 3

322 FIVE years' journey
after sticking it in the ground, and hammering
away with it, he whettled it awhUe upon his
patent strop, teUing the multitude that pressed
round him raeanwhUe a whole lot of fiinny
stories and anecdotes. Then suddenly catching
somebody, without farther warning, by the hand,
he roUed or stripped his sleeve up, tlU a part of
the arm became visible, and spitting upon it,
whUe the by-standers gave a loud cheer, and hold
ing hard — for the man tried to puU his hand
away from him, for he did not know what was
coming next — shaved the hairs off his arm with
the stropped pocket-knife.
Such a character was the razor-strop raan ; and
Jerry stood by, holding the strops in one hand
and the open umbreUa in the other, to keep
the sun off, and not raoving a muscle of his
face at the old feUow's funny tales, and the
roaring laughter of the by-standers. He had
heard the same stories, I have no doubt, many
a time. On Saturday, the 18th, we passed nearly the
whole day through an unintermpted flower-garden;
the country became more hUly, and shady groves,
with clear and murmuring streams, were inter
sected by long open stretches, covered with the
most briUiant flowers imaginable, and even forming
perfect drawings on the plain by the different
kinds that grew together. Thus, principally under

round the world, 323
single trees, a blue-bell had occupied the shady
places, the deep-running little water-courses were
marked on both sides by a broad lUac stripe of
sweet-scented star-blossoms, and red and yeUow
varied in the picture almost regularly with the
sweUing or sinking of the soU.
This evening the old razor-strop man asked
Heaven, in his common loud evening prayer, to
have the goodness not to be angry with hira if he
— the razor-strop man — on the next day, on a
Sabbath, not merely traveUed on the road, but also
had his mind occupied with worldly thoughts —
gold and other trash — whUe he knew very weU
it was his solemn duty to pray only, and think of
his sins.
Next day (Sunday), we reached the first dig
gings, and tried the pans after dinner, at a place
formerly worked. There was gold there, and
enough of it to make old Mr, HUlman think
earnestly of stopping here with his machine — who
knows if it would not have been the best for
him ? — ^but his young raen did not seera to Uke
the place, and persuaded hira to go on. And so
he did afterwards, but that night, in the tent, we
had to hear a long and powerful serraon. " As
he had predicted yesterday," he said in it, " so it
had happened. Instead of thinking of Heaven
and his own ralserable sins, he had thrown his
worleUy thoughts entirely, during the whole blessed

324 FIVE years' journey
Sabbath upon the raean stuff — the gold, and how
to get together in the shortest possible tirae the
largest possible quantity ; but he only rejoiced (as
he continued, lifting up his face, though without
opening his eyes) that he knew his own weakness
so well as to have foreseen this very accident.
There was some hope in that for hira, that he
would throw off his sins some day, and becorae a
new man."
On Monday night — and I had left the waggons
to take a hunt through the woods — we reached
Angelo Camp, a distance of about nine mUes
from the place we wanted to go to, finding it
a large mining place. Here Mr. HiUman had
made up his mind to stop — several other quick
silver-machines were at work here also — and
he intended to try his fortune. But his prayer
this night struck home — there was no asking
for any blessedness In general. No ; he went
straight to the point, and reminded his Creator
how he (Mr. HUlman) had proraised hira, be
fore he started from New Y^ork, a new house of
worship In his own little place when he safely
returned to the States ; and he now asked Him to
let him also find gold enough In the diggings to
pay for it.
Next moming, we reached Murphy's New — or,
as they were sometimes called, the Rich Diggings
— an appellation, however, the storekeepers gave

ROUND THE WORLD. 325
them, to attract new-comers to their place. But
Murphy's Diggings were a real Uttle mining town,
and I had not seen one so complete in every
respect. The place itself — or the town, I may
weU caU it, for they had elected an alcalde, sheriff,
and constable, and had given the little place the
narae of Stoutenburgh — consisted of one regu-
larly-buUt and main street — tents, of course — with
only one frame shed (and how respectable it
looked amongst its cotton comrades H between
them ; but every tent a grog-shop, and in some of
them gambling-tables as weU. Behind this street,
and farther on in the flat, other tents were wildly
scattered about, just as they had found the shade
of a tree or a cluster of Uttle bushes to shelter
thera against the wind, and in these the miners
Uved. The landscape was beautiful ; and the little
place, surrounded by high, wooded hills, with, the
American stars and stripes waving over it, was as
romantically situated, in the wide valley, as heart
could wish. The richest spot in this mining dis
trict was said to be the " flat," an open piece of
ground, which the little creek, a tributary of the
Stanislaus, seemed to have swept over in former
times of flood. Mexicans had discovered the
place, and it was said that they had dug very deep
holes here, and taken out a large quantity of gold.
The news spread, and from aU sides traders, with

326 FIVE years' JOURNEY
goods and provisions flocked in ; but the diggings
did not answer as well as they had thought. The
flat especiaUy was too wet duiing the greatest part
of the year to aUow its being worked, except late
in the faU ; and the miners had to scatter about
in the hills and commence at the gulches, which,
however, generaUy yielded tolerably weU. The
flat was to be worked later, and they had framed a
law about it, by which no man was aUowed, upon
his own account, to hold more of it than one
claim of sixteen feet long and eight feet broad,
with two and a half feet aroimd it to throw his
earth up in digging.
But I wiU not tire the reader with aU those old
mining stories about gravel, and clay, and holes,
and claims, about lumps of so and so many ounces
and grains, and all the rest of naraes and things
that are as monotonous and tiresome, in the long
run, as anything Imaginable. I wUl assume that
the reader knows aU these matters — he ought, at
least, for he gets enough of it now from AustraUa
— and the work is, in its outlines, exactly the same
here as there.
The story had been, of course, about these dig
gings — if you beUeved the papeTS or anybody else
who had a store there — that the diggers could
make an ounce daily with comparative ease; but
if they did so, they had. In fact, to make it, for
they could neve'r dig It out of the ground. People

ROUND THE WORLD, 327
worked everywhere, weU satisfied if they could find
on an average from three to five doUars' worth a
day. Some made more, of course, but hundreds
were, at the same, time, working merely for their
Uving, and some even accepted work with pleasure
at two doUars a day, if they could only get it.
So much for all the mining accounts. I wUl
not deny that many have made their fortune
up in the raountains by digging, and many are
making it stUl, but it is a game of lottery,
with this disadvantage, that if you put your
money into a lottery, you can bide your time at
your ease and leisure tlU your blank comes out,
while you have to work it out here yourselves with
pick-axe and spade.
But in spite of this, all these countries are quite
another thing for the working classes. A com
mon labourer, if he can by any possibUity pay his
passage, should go there by aU means. He will
earn his Uving without any doubt, and a better
Uving than he had at home, and may strike a
good place once in a while ; but all those who are
not used to very hard labour, and who, cannot
do without the comforts they thought in former
times indispensable, had better stay at home
and stick to their occupations, or they will rue
the day when they threw down their pen, or
whatever they wielded, to take hold of such a
disagreeable instrument as a pick-axe is, especiaUy

328 FIVE YEARS JOURNEY
In wet weather — the water mnning down your
sleeves, and making you feel uncomfortable up
to your elbows.
I Uved a ralner's life — without reckoning our
first unhappy trip in the rainy season — for raany
months, going through aU gradations, and work
ing in every way ; and the reader may think I
became acquainted with it ; but I should not
speak the truth if I were to say I ever Uked It,
There were pleasant moments in it ; the free
wild life in the raountains, especiaUy in fair weather,
has a great attraction, and looks even fairer on
the paper than It is in reaUtv ; and stout and
healthy as I was I soon becarae used to the hard
work. But the good side of the whole proved in the
long run only to be raoraents, and the long long
days and months that intervened could not com
pensate for all I had left, for all I had to undergo.
And yet I was better off than aU the rest of the
miners ; I had not come here to get gold, but to
see and learn the life in California, to mingle with
the different chai-acters, and store them up tiU the
tirae came — a time when I could take them out
again, and set them up once more as Uving things ;
and this gold I found wherever I looked, for such
a purpose no place could have been better chosen
than California ; so I never regretted the time I
passed theie". But I had spent the raoney with
which I had Intended to leave California, after I

ROUND THE WORLD. 329
had seen enough of it, in my unexpected jaunt
through the Pampas and across the Cordilleras ;
and I had now to work out with the rest, at least
enough to take me away again, through the South
Sea Islands to Sydney, where I had money waiting.
But to return to our life in the mountains.
Boehm had set up a small store, and as he had
been up here before, he proposed to me to work
together. I had not the least objection, for being
a raw hand at it yet, I had to leam nearly every
thing. My partner commenced working with me,
but soon gave up again, and spent in his store the
greatest part of the time, whUe I had to divide with
him what I washed out. When I told him at last
this would never do, he persuaded me again — and
he had some other reasons for it, as I found after
wards — to become a partner in his store, and share
everything with him.
It served me exactly right, I had warned others
so frequently, by my long experience in the
United States, not to enter into such partnerships,
if they could possibly avoid It, and now I jumped
head over heels into one myself, and I was to suffer
for it.
Boehm was IU for a good while, and as he had
nearly sold out those few things he had brought up
with him, one of us had to go down to San Fran
cisco again to fetch raore — the greatest part on
credit, of course. He could not go in the state he

330 FIVE years' journey
was in, and I therefore started on the 29th of
April, and reached Stockton without farther acci
dent, except escaping the danger of being lassoed
once, by avoiding the tree under which two
Spaniards were standing, one hidden behind it, and
the other caUing to me to come nearer. It was
bright moonlight, however, and I carried my rifle
with me, so there was no danger: the cowardly
rascals did not dare to attack me openly.
That day I made the longest march In twenty-
four hours that I had ever done, walking from day
break to daybreak, and only resting in the evening
a few hours tUl the moon got up, fifty-three
miles. Having crossed the Calaveres that evening, I
met a couple of waggons with a party going up
to the mines — a thing of so common occurrence,
that I never thought of looking at the men, and
only watched a young Frenchman, wiio had walked
up to a cow (vvhich had been fastened with her
horns to a tree), and was treating her, as he stood
right before her, to " AUons enfants de la patrie"
upon the trumpet, whUe the astonished animal with
bent head puUed back as far as ever she could.
Having ray face turned towards this rather singular
group, I was going to pass the waggons, when I
heard a voice say :
" I must have seen that face before — hem !"
I tumed quickly, and had to laugh right out, for

round THE WORLD. 331
in the tired, wayworn, dust-covered, and sunburnt
figure before me, I recognised nobody else than my
old landlord in Buenos Ayres — that merry, wool-
trading and trying Englishman, Mr, Davies, who
had treated me at that time to such dreadful
stories about California, warning, even begging
me not to run head-foremost into perdition, by
going to such an awful country. And now he
was here himself; and after a very dangerous
trip round the Cape, as he told me in a
few words, toUing in the sweat of his brow, to
undergo all those dreadful things he had warned
me against. Was it not by the interposition of
fate that I caught him in the act ? In fact he did
not seem to like it much ; but the short time
aUowed us — for his waggons had gone on in the
meantime, and I had also a long day's raarch before
rae — I profited by, to give hira, in as few words
as possible — a just punishment for his own neg
lected prophecies — the most horrible description of
the mines I could imagine ; and I was a sort of
authority at present, as I was just returning from
them. His face became longer and longer, and
when I saw him in a kind of petrified despair, I
shook hands with him, bade hun a hearty fareweU,
and walked on.
At daybreak next raorning I shot a very large
brown wolf — a rauch larger species than I had ever
found in the States ; I was just resting a little on

332 FIVE years' journey
an old log, when he came through the plain, and
stopping right in the road — only a little dis
tance off — looked at me. I could do nothing with
it though, for I wanted to reach Stockton, for
fear of missing the steamer for San Francisco ;
but there was no necessity for my hurry ing, and I
could have taken the walk raore at my leisure.
No steamer started that day, and all I could do
was to walk about through the town, to see what
little I could there.
There was a great deal of business transacted in
Stockton at this tirae : boats anived every day,
bringing goods and provisions for the raines ; and
round the little town, it reaUy looked like a
Mexican camp, for everywhere the night-fires
blazed, and every spot of good grass was occupied
by mule-droves, just come in from, or ready to
start for, the mines again.
I amused myself by visiting tbe different
gambling-houses this day. Many of them were
quite new, sorae hardly furnished with every
thing necessary, to be paid for afterwards by
the hard-earned money of sorae fooUsh diggers ;
but nearly all of thera had pictures in them to
attract the notice of the passers-by ; and those who
had been able to buy It, had most certainly, at
least, one larger painting in oU, representing a
female figure with as little clothing as possible.
You coulel find the sarae at San Francisco in every

ROUND THE WORLD, 333
gambling heU, and the farther you went in the
interior, the more indecent these pictures became,
becoming stUl worse in the mines ; while even
the largest hotel and gambling-house in Stock
ton, the ' El Dorado,' with the finest saloon
in town, and just opposite the landing, in the
most frequented part of the place, had the most
indelicate kind of oU-painting right over the bar.
There was, it is true, no danger of ladies frequent
ing, or even entering such a low place, but every
decent man would also turn away in disgust from
such a sight. Those gambling-houses are now
to CaUfornia what slave-holding is to the United
States. One of them I visited, seemed to have been
opened only a few days before ; there was a per
fectly new floor in it, and the naked walls were
covered with a light blue-flowered calico. In the
middle of the comfortless room, a table, covered
with a piece of green cloth, displayed a very small
pUe of silver-doUars, and two men sitting opposite
each other were shuffling cards for want of a
better occupation. All those arts to entice green
horns to enter were wanting yet, if I did not count
a little negro boy among them, who was squatting
in a comer, pulUng away at an old screechy accor
dion, to make at least some kind of noise. But it
was impossible for the room to be without some
ornaments on the wall, and the owner, in very

334 FIVE years' JOURNEY
good taste, had bought just half-a-dozen coloured
prints, all of them representing one and the same
young lady, with very square shoulders and a very
green frock, an extremely high head-dress and
wide baUoon-Uke sleeves, who had tumed her body
to the right, and her face in such a deterrained
way over the left shoulder, that it reaUy looked as
if she wore her face upon her back. These six
copies of exactly the same print over the whole
room, made an extraordinary impression upon the
beholder. That night I slept in the Stockton restaurant,
that is, not in a bed — for they had neither beds,
nor room for them — but somewhere in the dlning-
saloon, which was at the same tirae bar and parlour,
I had laid my blanket, gun, and knife upon one of
the small tables, while we were at supper in another
corner of the room ; talking and laughing afterwards
till late In the evening with a party of new-comers,
who wanted to give the mines a trial. And when I
went to look out for a resting-place, and was going
to see to my gun, .and give that a safe corner
during the night, one of the owners of the house,
an Alsaclan, stepped up to me, and said very
politely :
" Oh, would you be so kind and take those
things down; this gentleman sleeps on that
table." I looked rather astonished round at the gentle-

ROUND THE WORLD. 335
man, and found he did not sleep on the table, but
reaUy already stood before me. He was a tall,
raw-boned, broad-shouldered man in a blue blanket-
coat, in spite of the warm weather, another blanket
under one arm, and his puUed-off boots under the
other, standing there with closed eyes, and seemingly
quite irresolute whether he should wait tlU the bed
was made, or rather tumble over there where he
stood, to have his nap out. The landlord though,
on seeing me look so long at the rum customer,
and thinking perhaps I wanted the table for my
own bed, remarked, as if excusing the blue blanket-
coat : " The gentleman has already slept seven nights
on that same table." I took, of course, everything
down directly. He had most certainly a right
of pre-emption ; but he must have looked at me
through his eyelids, for he never opened his eyes
a single moment ; and I had hardly taken the last
thing off, when he lay stretched out at fuU length
upon the boards, snoring away as hard as he could.
I myself slept, par terre, with him.
Next night I was In San Francisco, and stopped
at a fellow-passenger's house, as I orUy intended
to stay two or three days in town.
The second morning I was awakened by a
wUd and singular noise. Starting up in bed, I
stared round rae, astonished at seeing the room Ut
up so brUUantly, I was half-dreaming then, but

336 FIVE years' JOURNEY
soon came to my senses again , and jumping out
of bed, dressed rayself as quickly as possible.
Fire 1 fire in San Francisco ! In two minutes
I was down in the street, and on the Plaza, and
could see here only too weU with what dreadful
power the fiery element gresv and raged ! It had
commenced In one of the gambUng-houses, and
spreading to the right and left, the flame ran
along the tents and dry wooden roofs as If they
had been pitched and tarred expressly for the
purpose. With reaUy incredible speed the flame
caught whole rows of buUdings, leaping even
across the streets, and spreading fear and terror
around. I had begun to help In saving the
goods in some houses, and carried thera across
the streets to some safer place ; but it was hardly
possible to save much, for when we commenced
clearing a place, the flame surrounded and de
stroyed it In the next five minutes. FinaUy, in
Dupont Street as the last point, we stopped the
progress of the fire by tearing down some light
wooden buUdings ; and at e^leven o'clock aU danger
for the rest of the town was past.
During the night, the fire broke out again in
several places, but only amongst the half-burnt
stumps of some house-posts, and without threaten
ing any other part. But on that same afternoon,
and not four hours after the fire, whUe the workmen

ROUND THE WORLD. 337
were even obliged to throw buckets of water upon
the hissing ground, to quench the burning ashes.
In the midst of smoke and destruction, beams and
lumber were carried into the very centre of the
burnt-down space, carpenters commenced ham
mering and sawing, and next moming a new
gambling-heU, of light frame-work, stretched over
with canvas, was again erected, with a laid floor,
and bar, and hazard- tables, and the violins and
trumpets were playing lustily away over the ruin
of thousands,
I should reaUy have felt thankful if a thunder
bolt had again demolished the hut over those
miserable gamblers' heads, who set up their
heUish games again, as if in derision of every
feeling of humanity.
Three days afterwards I returned to the mines,
aU ray business being transacted, and only being
delayed a couple of days by the effects of the fire.
I reached Stockton, engaged a teara — and freight
had fallen by this time to seven cents-— and tra
veUed on, not stopping longer than one night at
Stockton. The roads were now exceUent, but extreraely
dusty ; and on approaching the Calaveres again, I
saw several erapty ox-carts coming down towards
us, enveloped in a cloud of dust, with the objects in
it hardly discernible. When I was right opposite
to them, I could see they were sorae traveUers
VOL. I. Q

338 FIVE YEARS JOURNEY
returning from the mines upon the first waggon —
a very common way to leave the diggings if the
parties have no money to buy a mule, or are too
lazy or old to walk.
" HaUo, Sir !" said a voice, and stopping rather
astonished at the sound In the road, I recognised in
the two persons who were really coated with a thick
crust of dust, my forraer feUow-traveUers, Mr. HiU
man, the razor-strop man, and Jeremiah Living
ston, his faithful Sancho, Mr. HiUman looked
pale, at least downcast, for his coraplexion was
entirely hidden. Jerry, however, on the contrary,
was the very picture of happiness — the hard mining
work lay behind him, and he vvas going back, as
he said, among Christians.
Poor HUlman ! your rosy plans had not been
realized then ; on the contrary, you had sold every
thing, mule and quicksilver-machine, tent and pro
visions ; aU that was left of your possessions, as far
as I could see at least, being Jerry Livingston
and the brown urabreUa. The Lord then had not
given the gold for his new house of worship. But
1 have reason to doubt whether Mr. HUlman wUl
think himself now bound by bis promise — given
in former times, most certainly only under the
condition of safe return and health.
The waggon stopped while I talked to thera,
but the old razor-strop man had lost aU his hap
piness ; his dreams had faded away, and he had

ROUND THE WORLD. 339
not yet had tirae to form new ones. He was sit
ting comparatively in a blank at present. People
are not apt to be merry at such times.
That day I left the waggons to take a good hunt
through the woods, but I could not corae in
rifle-shot of anything till next morning, when I
shot a deer, but had also to leave it, as, although
mortally wounded, it ran, or rather tumbled down
one of the steep and lofty mountain-slopes. It
would have taken half-a-day to foUow it and bring
a part of the meat up. But I met another hunter,
and setting him on the track, had the satisfaction of
hearing afterwards that he had found the dead buck.
To say a few words about hunting in California —
many a man would be very much disappointed if
he believed aU the stories they teU him about it
in San Francisco, and then start, with such ideas,
to the mines. There are places stiU left where
there is a good deal of game, but If you go there
you wUl find out the reason why ; for it is a
wUderness of swamps and tulas, the Cahfornian
rushes, in which nothing could exist except the
wUd beasts of the forest. In those swamps which
lie between Sacramento and the Bay hiUs, or even
between Stockton and Pueblo San Jose, you find
even yet, and among a rapidly increasing popula
tion, the old grizzly bear, the elk, and the Virgi
nian deer, but there are also other places, where
there Is no gold, man has had as yet no further
Q 2

340 FIVE YEARS JOURNEY
Inducement to go there but to hunt ; and though
they pay an exceUent price for game in San Fran
cisco, gold-digging has been thought tUl now stiU
more profitable, and only few had time and money
enough — and If they had both of these — any idea
of wading about in the swampy tulas with the
chance of killing a grizzly bear or being kUled.
The grizzly bear is the largest of his kind — a
grim feUow, with extraordinary strength, and fre
quenting the wUdest parts of the woods ; he is
often found weighing one thousand four hundred
and more pounds, and a blow with his powerful
paws would be death to anything Uving; but I
am sure not half the dreadful stories you hear
about him are true. Nearly everybcxly who has
shouldered his rifle once, and gone a Uttle way
into the woods — especiaUy if he was stiU rather
green — has a bear story to tell when he comes
nut again ; and since Old Grizzly never can testify
to the contrary, they relate their feats witli them
so often, that they end by beUeving them them
selves. From what I heard from old hunters
about him — for it was never my luck to raeet one
In the woods — he runs like any other wUd beast,
when he hears the step of raen, or gets their
scent; and when wounded he sometimes grows
angry — and who would not? The flesh of the
ye)ung ones particularly is said to be very good,
but I never tasted it.

ROUND THE WORLD. 341
Elk and Virginian deer, and two kinds of ante
lopes, frequent the wide and swampy plains ; but
in the mountains I found an old acquaintance,
the common hare, which does not exist in the
esatern states. Another inhabitant of Europe,
which I never saw in the States, and which in
fact does not exist on the eastern side of the
Rocky Mountains, is the European magpie, ex
actly the same in shape and colour as with us,
except that it has a yeUow blU,
The only beasts of prey are the small American
Panther, some few wUd cats, the cayotas or prairie
wolves, and the large brown wolf, none of them
however dangerous to man ; for if you hear once
in a whUe of a man having been attacked by
cayotas, you raay safely put it down as a hunter's
story. Snipes, ducks, and geese are in immense nura
bers along the borders of the bay, and aU through
the lower lands.
Just at this time the new Californian law was
published, demanding from every foreign miner
a licence of twenty doUars a-month, for the per
mission to dig in the mines. A revolution seemed
to break out when this law was put in force, and
the legislature who passed it ought to have had
more sense than to throw a firebrand into the
country. The law of course could not be upheld,
for there were thousands who did not even make

342 FIVE years' journey
more than their living, and some not that, getting
provisions on credit, and not being able to pay
for them afterwards ; but stiU at first a parcel of
rowdies made use of it, and where they found
single foreigners in places they thought worth
working, drove them out of them, sometimes even
before the coUectors had anived in those parts,
to give them at least a chance of taking out a
licence or not.
The French got up a perfect revolution just
at this time, and a war nearly broke out in the
mines, whUe murders were already committed
daUy ; and aU this only on account of a parcel
of men who could not see farther than their
own noses, passing an impossible law, and strut
ting about and saying, " We have done a great thing,
we have brought miUions Into the treasury."
Some foreigners, who had just at that time good
claims, or such at least as they thought rich, had to
pay the enormous licence for the first month,
but the law had to be repealed directly, and was
altered aftei-wards into twenty doUars a-year, and
the first paid monthly licence was taken into
account for the whole year.

round the world. 343

CHAPTER VI.
the INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA.
In the neighbourhood of Murphy's New
Diggings, a large tribe of the Wynoot Indians
camped ; and though Americans not unfrequently
teU dreadful stories about the treacherous character
of these natives, I never found a raore quiet and
peaceable people in any country than they were.
When I reached the camp, the squaws — and
a Uttle warm water and soap would have decidedly
improved theur complexion — were busied in
getting the sumptuous meal ready for their lords
and husbands, and I had a beautiful chance of
seeing the simple, but also raost peculiar way in
which they prepare their dinners. The raain part
of this seeraed to consist of a soft mush of
pounded acorns. They had dug — or, I rather be
lieve, stamped — a small flat hole in the ground, in
the shape of a round and deep dish, or a Java
,hat, or something like a Californian washing-

344 five years' journey
pan, beaten this as hard as possible, and filled it
with the acorn-mush, already beaten up In one of
their waterproof baskets. Upon this they had
placed some light twigs, as I soon found, to
protect the bowl itself, as they placed hot stones
in it, which they put upon the twigs to make
them sink slowly to the bottom. As they also
poured some water in, to make the mush thinner,
these twigs prevented the fluid from damaging
the bottom of the vessel.
This kind of poe was soon prepared, and I
now went towards a smaU family, to see it de
voured. Of course, I looked around for a spoon ;
for I had thought up to this time, that such a
thin, soup-like mush, could not be eaten in any
other way but with some instrument at least re
sembling a spoon ; but a fat, jovial native soon
taught me better. He was, of course, the hus
band of the lady who brought him the basket
filled vvith the soup, which she had ladled out
with a flat calabash; and taking the basket
between his knees, and trying first, rather care-
fijlly with one finger, if the mush had cooled
enough to be eaten, he shoved the four fingers
of his right hand Into it, and then put them,
apparently with the utmost satisfaction, into his
wide and hospitably-opened organ of mastication,
out of vyhich they carae directly afterwards clean
and shining, and ready to repeat the operation,

round the world, 345
tUl he had nearly finished half the basket. The
thumb looked on aU the time, accompanying the
other four fingers down and up again, and only
acting as a kind of preventative to hinder the
hand frora disappearing entirely.
When he had finished his meal — that is, when
he could eat no more — he leant back groaning
upon his seat. I thought then that a sip of brandy
would aid his digestion, but he took the bottle
rather distrustfully, and swiUing twice at it — the
second time far raore carefully than the first —
he handed it back to rae, trying to make me
understand by signs that he would tumble about
if he drank that stuff, and become sick. To show
me his gratitude, however, he pushed the basket
with acorn-mush towards rae, to benefit by a
simUar application of my fingers to the poe ; but
I declined the hospitable offer with partly the
same fears as he entertained about the brandy.
The squaw and the chUdren soon afterwards took
the basket between them ; and it was a treat to
see the way the large and little fingers went into
it and out again.
WhUe I was standing there, a couple of pretty
young girls came frora the woods, with flat baskets.
fuU of flower-seed eraitting a peculiar fragrance,
which they also prepared for eating. They put
some Uve coals amongst the seed, and swinging it
and throwing it together, to shake the coals and
Q 3

346 FIVE years' journey
the seed weU, and bring them in continual and
close contact without burning the latter, they
roasted it completely, and the mixture smeUed so
beautiful and refreshing that I tasted a good hand
ful of it, and found it most excellent.
They also brought great pine-apples — that is,
real pine-apples — with a nut-like kernel, and many
other delicacies, such as roasted grass-hoppers and
baked wasps, &c., which I was too poor a connois
seur to do justice to.
The Indians on the whole American continent,
with the exception of those farthest north perhaps,
whose acquaintance I never had the pleasure of
forming, have an Indubitable family Ukeness The
colour of the natives from Canada dovvn to Cape
Horn, does not vary, in fact, so much in Its shades
of brown, through all the climes from the cold to
the temperate, and torrid, and back again through
temperate, and cold, as It does in the far smaUer
Australian continent ; and they aU have the long
smooth black hair, the prominent cheek-bones, and
the dark eyes. They differ, of course, in their
stature, and life, and habits ; nourishment and
eiimate, are a very essentlid cause fbr It.
But If the natives of California resemble the
Eastern tribes In stature and complexion, they do
not most assuredly In warUke character, for they
are really the most harmless nations on the
American continent ; let white people, who have

round the world. 347
driven them to desperation, say what they please
against them. Their weapons, if nothing else,
plainly show this : they have no offensive arms
at aU, except bows and anows, and these are
smaU and powerless. The bow is not quite three
feet long, of rather fragUe wood, but covered
with the broad back-sinew of the deer or ox.
The arrows are about two feet long, with sharp
points cut out of a kind of volcanic glass or rock.
They wear a quiver made of the skin of some wild
animal, fox, cayota, or racoon, sometimes even of
their dogs, in which they never carry more than ten
or twelve arrows. They go nearly naked, those at
least who have not come into much contact with
the whites ; but in this case they are nearly always
fond of sorae article of European dress. But dress
is no necessity for thera, even in the coldest
weather ; and I have seen, on nasty wet and cold
days, Indians standing together, one or two wrapped
up tightly in a thick and warm wooUen blanket, while
some had nothing In the world around them, offer
ing their naked hides to the Inclemency of the wea
ther, and apparently not a bit colder than the others.
" Don't you feel cold, Indian ?" an old back
woodsman, who was wrapped up in a warm, com
fortable blanket-coat, once asked a North American
Indian, who was trudging along the hard, frozen
road, with nothing upon his back, but a thin and

348 FIVE years' journey
tattered calico hunting-shirt, as he passed him on
horseback. " Do you feel cold In face ?" the Indian asked
in his short and broken way.
" No, not in my face," the white man answered.
" WeU — me face aU over 1" the Indian said with
a grin. But as much as I like to see an Indian in his
native dress or ornaments, be it as scanty as
possible, equaUy funny and disfigured do they look,
when they put on European clothes. They frequently
have no idea for what purpose, and in what order
they ought to be worn. First, a dress-coat, and
then a waistcoat, then part of a shirt, or a waist
coat by Itself, or a pair of trowsers, or three and
four pair of them at the same time, they do not
care ; and they admire a uniform most — red, if
possible, with gold or sUver. I frequently saw
Indians in the greatest heat with three pair of
trowsers, the upper ones puUed up as high as they
could get them, the second pair roUed up to their
knees, and the undermost left to their natural
length, to let aU men see what a splendid wardrobe
they caUed their own, and could afford. Cravats
for garters, shirt-collars point downwards, waist
coats buttoned behind, and other mistakes con
tinually occur ; and like chUdrem they hang upon
them what the-y can get, and sometimes even

ROUND THE WORLD. 349
what they can buy with hard-earned money,
till they get tired of it, and throw it aside.
The women also rejoice to dress like European
females, but as they never wash their dresses, they
look rather the worse for it after the first two or
three days. They most frequently, though, when
they want something beside their usual wide and
long apron of dressed deer-skins — which is co
loured and fringed exactly as the North American
Indians prepare them — throw a piece of calico
around them, in the same way as the Spanish ladies
use their raantUla.
Their governraent is, Uke that of their eastern
brethren, hereditary chieftainship ; and while all
the single tribes have their own " capitano," as
they now call them, at least if conversing with
white men about them, several tribes together — as
for instance, those on the southern waters of the
Stanislaus, Calaveres, and Magualorae — recognise a
principal chieftain as their supreme head, who in
all cases has to decide such matters and difficulties
as arise between whites and Indians.
At that time their first chief lived on the
Calaveres, and was called Jesus,
As to their reUgion, I never could find out
what they believed. Those Indians close to the
missions were, or had been at least, Christians ;
but farther up in the mountains nobody had cared
about thera, and in fact I hardly think they

350 FIVE YEARS JOURNEY
troubled themselves about it, I never saw idols
among thera, or spoke to anybody who had ; and
from what I could leam about their superstitions,
they only believe In some evil spirits, who can do
them harra, and whom they adore to retain their
friendship. Here is a field for missionaries ; here are quan
tities of souls to be saved, and in arm's-reach,
too, of hundreds of preachers of aU sects, Presby
terians and Methodists, Baptists and Roman Catho
lics ; here they could do aU those things which
missionaries like to wTlte about so frequently, un
dergo hardships, and even dangers, only for Christ's
sake ; but that is the very reason they do not go,
because it would be " only for Christ's sake."
There are no tenitorles to be won, there are no
natives to be enticed into buUding comfortable
houses for the Christian teachers, they would
have to lead a wUd Ufe with them, no farther profit
in view as is the case vrith the South Sea Islands, but
only the prospect of being driven with their pupUs
from one place to another, living on grubs, acorns,
and other indigestible things ; while, on the other
hand, a comfortable life and a good income look far
more inviting. What wonder then that you do not
hear a word about missionary zeal in California,
but sec subscriptions daily raised In San Francisco,
to erect churches and meeting-houses in the city —
among the Christians.

ROUND THE WORLD. 351
But they are right ; for what would be the- use of
saving those few souls, whose bodies will soon be
driven under-ground ? why take the last of the
poor hunters away from the merry hunting-grounds
of their forefathers ? The Indians of CaUfomia no
longer exist in reality, though a few scattered tribes
may wander about yet In the distant hills, looking
towards the setting sun down upon a country
which was once their own, and where the ashes of
their forefathers were given to the balmy breeze,
or buried under the shady oaks of the plains.
To prove to the reader that I am not exaggerat
ing, I wiU only tell him one case I was witness of
myself, to see how the Indians are treated in the
mines, and in what way those stories arise, which
are told about Indian aggressions !
On the 2nd of July, 1850, a black fellow — that
is, not a negro, but a Bombay-man, of rather dark
complexion for that race — came running into a little
mining place, Douglas Flat, on the same creek that
Murphy's New Diggings lay on ; two Indians were
following him, but when they saw he had taken
shelter with the whites, they left off their pursuit,
and walked back. But the India-man now told a
dreadful story, how the natives had taken hold of
him, and robbed him of nineteen hundred dollars
in gold dust. Some Texians, who were accidentally
In the trader's tent in which the Bombay-man had
sought shelter, and possibly guided more by the hope

352 FIVE years' JOURNEY
of getting the nineteen hundred doUars, than of
helping the " nigger," as they called him, gave chase
directly ; and the natives hareUy saw white men with
their rifles in their hands start after thera, before
they knew orUy too weU what they had to expect
from their mUd pursuers, and fled to the hUls, and
their own camp. But they had some old Texian
woodmen after thera, with legs as tough and strong
as their own, to foUow even through the rough
and uneven groimd of the hills ; and on reaching
the caraping-place of their tribe, and thinking,
perhaps, far raore whites on their track than there
really were, they only caUed to their corarades to
take up their arras and fly with them farther into
the thicket. Even the women had harcUy time to
snatch up their babies and save themselves from a
hostile attack for which they could assign no
cause. Several other whites had foUowed the first, and
whUe the Texians ran after the two natives, who, as
they macUy and fooUshly thought, must have the
gold, the others without even inquiring if the poor
wretches, who were now chased like beasts of the
forest, had done any harm, set fire to their Uttle
camping-place, and maliciously burned the provi
sions and blankets, as weU as the only shelter the
poor natives had raised for themselves in the woods ;
and had It not been for some other men, an
American and a German, who had also followed to

ROUND TttE WORLD, 353
see what was the matter, and who scattered the
fire before it had destroyed more than about half
of the little viUage, everything that tribe before
possessed, would have been devoured by the greedy
flame. The Texians, at last, when they saw they could
not overtake the fleeter natives, fired several times
at them, and they sent back a shower of arrows,
but of course without doing the least harm, as
they had to keep off as far as they could for fear of
the buUets, and a distance of seventy or eighty
yards made their Ught arrows powerless. At last,
one of the Texians, heading the tribe as they
followed up a narrow gulch to the top of the hlU,
got in shooting distance, and taking deliberate aim
at one, shot him, from the low hUl where he was
standing, in the back. The poor feUow feU, but
the others carried him off ; and as the wood became
thicker here, the Texian returned to the camp.
Next day, a delegation from the Indians came
into Stoutenburgh, to inquire what they had done
that the whites should make war upon them, and
to teU the alcalde there — for they knew he was
the capitano of the whites — that one of their
number had been shot, and their vUlage burnt
by sorae of theu white brethren,
A jury was sworn to go up to the ridge on
which the Indians had now taken shelter ; and
when we reached the spot, where the woraen

354 FIVE years' JOURNEY
looked at us In fear and despair, and the men in
hate and anger, though they did not use their
weapons against us, we found the poor feUow who
had been shot the day before, standing upright
under a tree. He had just raised himself when
he heard of our coming, for I could see the
bloody spot where he had lain a Uttle whUe before.
His wife was supporting him, and death was written
on his countenance. The buUet had entered his
back close to the back-bone, and seemed to have
lodged inside, and had followed a slanting direction
from a higher place, somewhere on the hip-bone.
We had a doctor with us (as the man caUed
himself), but he could do nothing for the poor
feUow ; and after hearing what account the Indians
could give of the whole matter, and seeing on our
return the burned camp with our own eyes, a trial
was to be held next day upon the Bombay-man,
When we left the hUl, and the mother-of the
poor Indian, who had probably thought white men
sufficiently skUled in the art of medicine to heal
the wounds thew had inflicted, now saw them give
him up, she commenced waUIng over the murdered
man ; and while the wounded native again lay
down unde'r the tree, her shriU cries fiUed the air.
1 ran dovvn the hiU as fast as I could, to be out of
healing of those dreadful sounds. I was ashamed
of being a white man at that moment.
Next day a jury sat; but the Bombay-raan

ROUND THE WORLD. 355
understood no English, at least, he pretended not
to do so now. Still everything was proved against
him, and some traders from the next camp stood
up as witnesses against him, stating on their oath
that the nigger had not had even money enough with
him the night before to pay for his drink, and
that they had kicked him out of the tent. As it
now appeared, the fellow had reached the night
before the Indian camp, where he was hospitably
received ; but insulting the women, he was first
repulsed, and then, not being satisfied with a first
lesson, driven out of the camp by the men.
Afterwards, I believe, he had again returned, and
the natives had foUowed to chastise, but not to
rob the rascal.
The trial of the Bombay-man was interesting,
for nobody spoke his language, while he himself
pretended not to understand a word of English ;
though one of the Yankees, a raw down-easter,
tried once to play the interpreter, by bawling to
him in English — which he thought the foreigner
must understand, because he himself understood
nothing else. But It was no go, and with cir
cumstantial proof enough, they condemned him to
twenty-five lashes, of which the sheriff gave hira
thirteen the next morning — accidentaUy the 4th
of July — and one of the Indians the rest. But
the natives were not satisfied with this, and swore
they would kUl him for raising a false cry against

356 FIVE years' journey
them ; and the sheriff had to keep him that night
after the punishment in his own tent. When
they led him out to receive his lashes, though the
poor devU was perfectly convinced they were going
to hang him, and he begged for his life bitterly.
This was one of the comraon Indian wars,
" The natives had shot with arrows at the w^hltes,
and were driven back into their mountains," so
the accounts ran ; though, in reality, the whites
behaved worse than cannibals towards the poor,
inoffensive creatures, whom they had robbed
nearly of every means of existence, and now
sought to trample under foot.
But enough of this misery. The time is not
far distant when the Indians of this immense
tenitory wIU have ceased to exist ; and it wUl then
be Interesting, at least, to know something of the
tribes, though we did not care for thera w hen Uving,
The character of these Indians in their mode
and way of living, is exactly the sarae as with
their eastern brethren, and, in fact, with nearly aU
wUd tribes. The husband foUows the chase, and
the wife has to coUect insects and seeds, or fruits,
prepare the fmgal meals, rear the chUdren, carry
the bundles and firewood, and, in fact, do nearly
everything, whUe their lord walks about at his
leisure with his Ught bow and arrow. But though
this seems unjust, it is necessary ; for, in a state
of society where the lives of the faraUy depend

ROUND THE WORLD. 357
upon the success of the hunter, he must have his
arms free and unencumbered for action at every
minute, and dare not toil under a heavy load, for
it would make his aim unsteady.
But the gold discovery has altered their mode
of life materiaUy ; they have learned to want
more necessaries, while the raeans of subsistence
has diminished ; and driven at last to a thing
they had never thought of before, the Californian
Indians reaUy work. At first they did it in
right good earnest, and even for the whites ; but
though some tribes, principaUy the northern ones,
can yet be hired for a short tirae, the southern nations
have given it up again, and only work now rarely in
famUies, nearly always to buy brandy for the gentle
men — in families, I say, for it is with these natives,
as with all other lazy people, whenever they do work
they cannot bear to see an idle person around them,
and women and children have to be as busy as bees
in such cases. Still they do not like to dig deep
holes, and as they only in very rare cases can find
gold near the surface, they nearly always try to
get into places where white men have coraraenced
digging, and are not very particular whether they
have finished or not. They very cunningly wait
for this purpose tUl the whites have gone to dinner,
watching them in the morning, and jumping into
the hole as soon as they have left, the men take
their tools and work out the ground with the

358 FIVE years' JOURNEY
pickaxe, while the women and children carry it off
In their pans to the water and wash it out. If
the miners return, upon a sign given by their
sentinel, they aU disappear ; and the diggers some
times find, where they had hoped to come to a
good spot, a far greater space worked out for thera
in an hour or two than they had desired. But the
poor feUows can only earn very little in this
way ; and whatever it be, they are cheated out of
It again by the next trader they have to deal
with. They lay in provisions for winter-time, prin
cipaUy the sweet acorns of the plains, but also the
bitter ones of the mountains, which they bury, as
I was told, a certain time in the ground to remove
the bitter and unpleasant taste. Besides these,
their woods are rich enough in many other wUd
fruits ; for instance, hazel-nuts, currants, grapes,
cherries, strawberries, whortleberries, and many
others, which they know how to dry and keep.
The cherries deserve particular mention, for they
grow in a peculiar way, like grapes, but on a tree
sImUar to ours. They belong to the sour species,
but taste exceedingly good.
Their habitations are as simple as possible,
and consist, in summer-time especially, only
of bush-huts, to ward oft' the hot rays of the sun ;
in the winter season, with some tribes, of bark-
huts ; with others, as on Feather River, of huts

ROUND THE WORLD. 359
made in a more substantial way of posts, and
earthen walls, and roofs.
They have also a raethod of rubbing fire with
two sticks of wood, but they do not use one piece
of hard and another of soft wood for the purpose,
as is commonly supposed, but two soft pieces,
lying one down, and putting the other into it,
and using it Uke a twirUng stick, tlU the rubbed-
off fine powder ignites very much In the same
way as tinder.
And what will be the end of these tribes ? As
an answer, I will give the reader only the last part
of a declaration of one of the United States^ agents
for Indian affairs, who had been authorized to lay
down several tracts upon which the expelled
Indians could reside unmolested, and who had
been afterwards accused by the greedy gold-seekers,
of having overstepped his authority, and given the
red raen the " best claims."
" A younger population is allowed to enter our
land and coUect the riches of our soU. It does
not contribute anything to support the State, but
returns whence it came, encouraging others to do
the same. Notwithstanding, these very men deny
the Californian Indian, and former legitimate
owner of the soU," — and I should think, in right
eousness, not only the former but the present
owner — " the right of working here, or, at least,
of staying upon the spot whleih was once his own.

360 JOURNEY ROUND THE WORLD.
A population, perfectly strange to them, a great
part of it even strangers to us, has taken pos
session of their former homes, destroyed theu
hunting-grounds and fisheries, burnt down their
acorn groves, and cut them off from aU those
means of subsistence a kind Providence had
created for their maintenance, and taken away
from them the possibiUty of existing. But not
satisfied with that, these men deny them even the
right we have granted to the paupers and convicts
of the whole world — viz., the right of working
and existing.
" I am convinced nobody could take the whole
soU and ground I have reserved for the use of the
Indians, and pay the taxes thereon.
" O. M. Wozencraft.
" U.S. INDIAN agent, MIDDLE DISTRICT, CAL."

END OF VOL. I.

LONDON;
Printed by Schulze and Co., 13, Poland Street.

MESSRS. HURST AND BLACKETT,
SUCCESSORS TO MR. COLBURN,
HAVE LATELY PUBLISHED
Cije jFnllniHitig Sntrrenting Wnh.

FIFTH AND CHEAPER EDITION, REVISED.
In One Vol., Post 8vo. 10s. 6d. bound.
LORD GEORGE BENTINCK:
A POLITICxVL BIOGRAPHY.
BY THE RT. HON. B. DISRAELI, M.P.

From Blackwood's Magazine. — " This biography cannot fail to attract the
deep attention of the public. We are bound to say, that as a pohtical biography
we have rarely, if ever, met with a book more dexterously handled, or morj
replete with interest. The history of the famous session of 1846, as written by
Disraeli in that brilliant and pointed,styIe of which he is so consummate a master,
is deeply interesting. He has traced this memorable struggle with a vivacity and
power unequalled as yet in any narrative of Parliamentary proceedings."
From The Dublin University Magazine. — "A political biography of
Lord George Bentinck by Mr. Disraeli must needs be a work of interest and
importance. Either the subject or the writer would be sufficient to invest it
with both — the combination surrounds it with peculiar attractions. In this
most interesting volume Mr. Disraeh has produced a memoir of his friend in
which he has combined the warmest enthusiasm of affectionate attachment vrith
the calmness of the critic."
From The Morning Herald — " Mr. Disraeli's tribute to the memory of
his departed friend is as graceful and as touching as it is accurate and impartial.
No one of Lord George Bentinck's colleagues could have been selected, who,
from his high literary attainments, his personal intimacy, and party associations,
would have done such complete justice to the memory of a friend and Parlia
mentary associate. Mr. Disraeli has here presented us with the very type and
embodiment of what history should be. His sketch of the condition of parties
is seasoned with some of those piquant personal episodes of party manoeuvres
and private intrigues, in the author's happiest and most captivating vein, which
convert the dry details of politics into a sparkling and agreeable narrative."

THE LIEE OF MARIE I)E MEDICIS,
QUEEN OF FRANCE,
CONSORT OF HENRY IV., AND REGENT UNDER LOUIS XIIL
BY MISS PARDOE.
Author of "Louis XIV. and the Court of France, In the 17th Century," &c
SncoND Edition. In 3 large vols. 8vo., with Fine Portraits, 42s. bound.

" A fascinating book. The history of such a woman as the beautiful, impulsive,
earnest, and affectionate Marie de Medicis could only be done justice to by a
female pen, impelled by all the sympathies of womanhood, but strengthened by
an erudition by which it is not in every case accompanied. In Miss Pardoe the
unfortunate Queen has found both these requisites, and the result has been a
biography combining the attractiveiiebs of romance with the reliableness of his
tory, and which, taking a place njidway between the 'frescoed galleries' of
Thierry, and the 'philosophic watch-tower of Guizot,' has all the pictorial brilliancy
of the one, with much of the reflective speculation of the other." — Daily News.
" A valuable, well-written, and elaborate biography, displaying an unusual
amount of industry and research." — Moming Chronicle.
" A careful and elaborate historical composition, rich in personal anecdote.
Nowhere can a more intimate acquaintance be obtained with the principal events
and leading personages of the first half nf the 17th century." — Moming Poat.
" A work of high literary and historical merit. Rarely have the strange
vicissitudes of romance been more intimately blended with the facts of real
iflstory than in the life of Marie de Medicis ; nor has the difficult problem of
combining with the fidelity of biography the graphic power of dramatic delineation
been often more successfully solved than by the talented author of the valumes
before us. As a personal narrative. Miss Pardee's admirable biography possesses
the most absorbing and constantly sustained interest ; as a historical record of the
events of which it treats, its merit is of no ordinary description." — John BuiL
" A life more dramatic than that of Marie de Medicis has seldom been written ;
one raore imperially tragic, never. The period of French history chosen by Miss
Pardoe is rich in all manner of associations, and brings together the loftiest
names and most interesting events of a stirring aud dazzling epoch. She has
been, moreover, cxceeilingly fortunate in her materials. .\ manuscript of the Com-
mandeur de Rambure, Gentleman of tbe Bedchamber under the Kiiijis Henry IV.,
Louis XIII., and Louis XIV., consisling of the memoirs of the writer, with all
the most memorable events which took place during the reig:is of those three
Majesties, from tbe \e;ir l.'ilU to that of l(')iU). was placed at her disposal by
M. dc la Plane, Monilier of the Institut Royal de la France. This valuable
record is vciy viilumiiious, and throws a flood of light on c\cry transaction. Of
this iMi[ioriiiiil iloeiinient aiii|>le use has been judiciously made by Miss Pardoe;
and her narrative, aciordinnlv, has a fulness and particularity possessed by none
other, and whieli adds to the dramatic interest of the subject. The work is very
elegantly wrillen, and will be read with delight. It forms another monument to
tlic wonhmess of female intellect in the age we live in." — Itlustralcd Neivs.

MEMOIRS OF THE
BARONESS D'OBERKIRCH,
illustrative of the secret history of
THE COURTS OF FRANCE, RUSSIA, AND GERMANY.
WRITTEN BY HERSELF,
And Edited by Her Grandson, the Cotjst de Monibbison.
3 vols. Post 8vo., 3l8. 6d. bound.

The Baroness d'Oberkifch, being the intimate friend of the Empress of Russia,
wife of Paul I., and the confidential companion of the Duchess of Bourbon,
her facilities for obtaining information respecting the most private affairs of the
principal Courts of Europe, render her Memoirs unrivalled as a book of interest
ing anecdotes of the royal, noble, and other celebrated individuals who flourished
on the continent during the latter part of the last century. Among the royal per
sonages introduced to the reader in this work, are Louis XVI., Marie Antoinette,
Philip Egalite, and all the Princes of France then living — Peter the Great, the
Empress Catherine, the Emperor Paul, and his sons Constantine and Alexander,
of Russia — Frederick the Great and Prince Henry of Prussia — The Emperor
Joseph II. of Austria^ — Gustavus III. of Sweden — Princess Christina of Saxony —
Sobieski, and Czartoriski of Poland — and the Princes of Brunswick and VS^urtem-
berg. Among the remarkable persons are the Princes and Princesses de Lamballe,
de Ligne and Galitzin — the Dukes and Duchesses de Choiseul, de Mazarin, de
Boufflers, de la Valliere, de Guiche, de Penthi6vre, and de Polignac — Cardinal de
Rohan, Marshals Biron and d'Harcourt, Count de Stareinberg, Baroness de
Krudener, Madame Geoffrin, Talleyrand, Mirabeau, and Necker — with Count
Cagliostro, Mesnier, Vestris, and Madame Mara; and the work also includes
such literary celebrities as Voltaire, Condorcet, de la Harpe, de Beaumarchais,
Rousseau, Lavater, Bernouilli, Raynal, de I'Epee, Huber, Gotbe, Wieland, Male-
sherbes, Marmontel, de Stael and de Genlis ; with some singular disclosures
respecting those celebrated Englishwomen, Elizabeth Chudleigh, Duchess of
Kingston, and Lady Craven, Margravine of Anspach.
" The Baroness d'Oberkirch, whose remarkable Memoirs are here given to the public, saw
much of courts and courtiers, and her Memoirs are ijlled with a variety of anecdotes, not
alone of lords and ladies, but of emperors and empresses, kings and queens, and reigning
princes and princesses. As a picture of society anterior to the French Revolution, the book
is the latest and most perfect production of its kind extant ; and as such, besides its minor
value as a book of amusement, it possesses a major value as a work of information, which, in
the interest of historical truth, is, without exaggeration, almost incalculable." — Observer.
"Thoroughly genuine and unaffected, these Memoirs display the v/hole mind of a woman
who was well worth knowing, and relate a large part of her experience among people with
whose names and characters the world will be at all times busy. A keen observer, and by
position thrown in the high places of the world, the Baroness d'Obeikirch was the very
woman to write Memoirs that would interest future generations. We commend these
volumes most heartily to every reader They are a perfect magazine of pleasant anecdotes
and interesting characteristic things. We lay down these charming volumes with regret.
They will entertain the most fastidious readers, aud instruct the most informed." — Examiner.
" An intensely interesting autobiography " — Morning Chronicle.
" A valuable addition to the personal history of an important period. The volumes deserve
general popularity," — Daily News.
" One of the most interssting pieces of contemporary history, and one of the richest
collections of remarkable anecdotes and valuable reminiscences ever produced."— JoAh Bull.

THE MARYELS OF SCIENCE,
AND THEIR TESTIMONY TO HOLY WRIT;
A POPULAR MANUAL OF THE SCIENCES.
BY S. W. FULLOM, ESQ.
dedicated bt permission to the king op HANOVER.
Third Edition, Revised. 1 vol. Post 8vo. lOs. 6d. boimd.

" This work treats of the whole origin of nature in an intelligent style ; it puts
into the hands of every man the means of information on facts the most subhme,
and converts into interesting and eloquent description problems which once
perplexed the whole genius of mankind, We congratulate the author on his
research, his information, and his graceful and happy language." — Britannia.
" Tbe skill displayed in the treatment of the sciences ie not the least marvel in
the volume. The reasonings of the author are forcible, fluently expressed, and
calculated to make a deep impression. Genuine service has been done to the
cause of Revelation by the issue of such a book, which is more thau a mere
literary triumph. It is a good action." — Globe.
" Its tone is grave, grand, and argumentative, and rises to the majesty of poetry.
As a commentary upon the stupendous facts which exist in the universe, it is
truly a work which merits our admiration, and we unhesitatingly refer our readers
to its fascinating pages." — Dispatch.
"Without parading the elaborate nature of his personal investigations, the
author has laid hold of the discoveries iu every department of natural science in
a manner to be apprehended by the meanest understanding, but which wiU at the
same time command the attention of the scholar." — Messenger.
" A grand tour of the sciences. Mr. Fullom starts from the Sun, nms round
by the Planets, noticing Comets as he goes, and puts up for a rest at the Central
Sun. He gets into the Milky Way, which brings him to the Fixed Stars aud
Nebula:. He munches the crust nf the Earth, and looks over Fossil Animals and
Plants. This is followed by a disquisition on the science of the Scriptures. He
then comes back to tlic origin of the Earth, visits the Magnetic Poles, gets
among Thunder and Lightning, makes the acquaintance of Magnetism and Elec
tricity, dips into Rivers, draws science from Springs, goes into Volcanoes, through
which he is drawn into a knot of Earthquakes, comes to the surface with Gaseous
Emanations, and sliding down a Landslip, renews his jouruey on a ray of Light,
goes through a Prism, sees a Mirage, meets with the Flying Dutchman, observes
an Optical Illusion, steps over the liainbon, enjoys a dance with the Northern
Aurora, takes a little Polari/ed Light, boils some Water, sets a Steam-Engine in
motion, witnesses the expansion of Metals, looks at the Thermometer, and
refreshes himself with ho. Soon he is at Sea, examining the Tides, tumbling
on the Waves, swimming, diving, and ascertaining*the pressure of Fluids. We
meet hiiu next in the .\ir, running through all its properties. HaNing remarked
on the propagation of Sounds, he pauses for a bit of .Music, and goes off into the
Vegetable Kingdom, then Iraveis through the -Vniinal Kingdom, aud having
visitcil the various riiees of the human family, winds up with a demonstration of
the Anatomy of Man." — I'.rnntinfr.

THE LITEEATTOE AND ROMANCE
OF NORTHERN EUROPE.
constituting a complete history of the literature of SWEDEN,
DENMARK, NORWAY, AND ICELAND, WITH COPIOUS SPECIMENS OF THE
MOST CELEBRATED HISTORIES, ROMANCES, POPULAR LEGENDS AND TALES,
OLD CHIVALROUS BALLADS, TRAGIC AND COMIC DRAMAS, NATIONAL SONGS,
NOVELS, AND SCENES FROM THE LIFE OP THE PRESENT DAT.
BY WILLIAM AND MARY HOWITT.
"2 V. post Bvo. 21s. bound.
" EngUsh readers have long been indebted to Mr. and Mrs. Howitt. They
have now increased our obligations hy presenting us with this most charming and
valuable work, by means of which the great majority of the reading public will
be, for the first time, made acquaiuted with the rich stores of intellectual wealth
long garnered in the literature and beautiful romance of Northern Europe.
From the famous Edda, whose origin is lost in antiquity, down to the novels of
Miss Bremer and Baroness Knorring, the prose and poetic writings of Denmark,
Norway, Sweden, and Iceland are here introduced to us in a manner at once
singularly comprehensive and concise. It is no dry enumeration of names, but
the very marrow and spirit of the various works displayed before us. We have
old ballads and fairy tales, always fascinating ; we have scenes from plays, and
selections from the poets, with most attractive biographies of these and other
great men. The songs and ballads are translated with exquisite poetic beauty." —
Sun. " We have most cordially to thank Mary and William Howitt for their valuable
contribution to our knowledge of the literature of Northern Europe. They have
effected a public good. They have offered to all classes of readers a work abound
ing in original and entrancing interest, overflowing with varied matter — of criticism,
biography, anecdotes, sketches, and quotations, all tending to exhibit new trea
sures for the gratification and enlightenment of a vast circle of minds. Our
authors have described to us in copious and entertaining detail the romance and the
poetry, the writings and the imaginations, of the Scandinavian races, interspersed
with abundant and well-selected specimens of the historical, romantic, legendary,
chivalric, ballad, dramatic, song, and critical literature of Northern Europe. They
have brought to light the treasures of the illustrious poets, historians and bards
of Scandinavia, in a work of astonishing interest." — Sunday Times.
" This work teems with information of the rarest and most curious character,
and is replete with interest to the scholar, the philosopher, the antiquarian, and
the general reader. The subject has the charming freshness of novelty. "There
is not any other book in the English language, which presents so vivid, so
interesting, and so accurate a picture of the manners, customs, opinions, and
superstitions of our Scandinavian forefathers." — Moming Post.
" A standard work on the whole subject." — Globe.
" A valuable addition to our literature." — Daily News.
•• A book full of information — and as such, a welcome addition to our literature.
The translations — especially of some of the ballads and other poems — are exe
cuted with spirit and taste." — Mhemeum.

JUDGE HALIBURTON'S NEW HISTORICAL WORK.
In 2 vols, post 8vo. 21s. bound.
RULE AND MISRULE OF
THE ENGLISH IN AMERICA.
By the Author of
"SAM SLICK," "THE OLD JUDGE," &c.

" A most attractive work." — Standard.
" The cleverest volumes Judge Haliburton has ever produced." — Messenger.
" We conceive this work to be by far the most valuable and important Judge
Haliburton has ever written. The exhaustless fund of humour — quiet, yet rich
and racy, and at the same time overflowing with tbe milk of human kindness
— which his writings display on one hand, and the wonderful knowledge of
man's character, in all its countless varieties, which they exhibit on the other,
have insured for them a high, and honourable, and enduring station in Englbh
literature. It would be lUfficnlt, if not impossible, to arise from the perusal of
any of Mr. Haliburton's performances without having become both wiser and
better. His ' English in America' is, however, a production of a yet more
exalted order. While teeming with interest, moral and historical, to the general
reader, it may be regarded as equally constituting a philosophical study for the
politician and the statesman. It will be found to dissipate many popular errors,
and to let in a flood of light upon the actual origin, formation, and progress of
the republic of the United States." — Naval and Military Gazette.
"Those who wish for an accurate history of the rise of repubhcanism in
America to its grand development in the United States revolution, will here find
a narrative that is invaluable for its accuracy, its impartiality, its admirable order
in arrangement, and that true philosophy of statesmanship which can attach to
each incident a fitting moral, from which every honest politician can derive
instruction. The work is one equally useful in the double aspect in which it
may be regarded — first, an insight into the canses of past transactions ; second,
as a warning to guide mankind amid the many perplexing pohtical questions of
the day. The spirit of impartiality animates every page of this work. It is
deserving of a place in every historical library." — Moming Herald.
" We believed the author of this work to possess a power of humour and
sarcasm secoud only to that of Rabelais and Sidney Smith, and a genuine pathos
worthy of Henry Fielding or Charles Dickens. In his particular line of literature
we believed him to be unrivalled. In the volumes brfore us he breaks upon a
new, and — according to his method of breaking the subject — untrodden ground.
We hail this book with pleasure ; we consider it an honour to Judge Haliburton,
as by it he has proved himself to be a Christian, a scholar, a gentleman, and, in
the true sense of a mis-used word, a patriot. Mr. Haliburton places before us,
fairly and impartially, the history of English rule in America. The book is not
only a boon to the historic student, it is also filled with reflections such as may
well engage the attention of the legislating statesman. Mr. Haliburton also
shows us the Inie position of tbe Canadas, explains the evils of our colonial
system, points out the remedies by which these evils may be counteracted, that
thus the rule of the ¦ English in America' may be something better than a
history of the blunders, the follies, and the ignorant temerity of colonial
secretaries." — /ri.v/i Quarterly Review.

SAM SLICK'S NEW COMIC WORK.
In 3 vols, post 8vo. 31s. 6d. hound.
TEAITS OE AMERICAN HUMOUR.
Edited
Bt the Author of " SAM SLICK," &c.

"We have seldom met with a work more rich iu fun or more generally
delightful." — Standard.
" Those who have relished the racy humour of the ' Clockmaker,' will find a
dish of equally ludicrous and amusing Transatlantic wit in the volumes before
UB." — Herald.
" A new book, by the author of ' Sam Slick ' causes some stir among the
laughter-loving portion of the community ; and its appearance at the present
festive season is appropriate. We hold that it would be quite contrary to the
fitness of things for any other hand than that of our old acquaintance, the
facetious Judge Haliburton, to present to us a Christmas dish, and call it ' Traits
of American Humour.' But even without the recollection of ' Sam Slick ' to
evoke the spirit of fun within us, we should have been forced to yield to the
racy humour of these American ' Traits.' Dip where you will into this lottery
of fun, you are sure to draw out a prize." — Mormng Post.
" The untravelled European who has not made the acquaintance Of Sam
Slick, can have but little knowledge of the manners, customs, humours, eccen
tricities and lingos of the countless varieties of inhabitants of North America
who we are accustomed to conglomerate under the general name of Yankees.
Assisted, however, by Sam Slick's graphic descriptions, literal reports, and racy,
pen-and-ink sketches, gentlemen who sit at home at ease, are able to realize with
tolerable accuracy the more remarkable species of this lively family, to compre
hend their amusing jargon, to take an interest in their peculiarities of person
and speech, and to enter into the spirit of their very characteristic humours.
No man has done more than the facetious Judge Haliburton, through the mouth
of the inimitable ' Sam,' to make the old parent country recognise and appreciate
her queer transatlantic progeny ; and in the volumes before us he seeks to render
the acquaintance more minute and complete. His present collection of comic
stories and laughable traits is a budget of fun full of rich specimens of American
humour." — Globe.
" The reader will find this work deeply interesting. Tankeeism pourtrayed, in
its raciest aspect, constitutes the contents of these superlatively entertaining
volumes, for which we are indebted to our facetious old friend, ' Sara Slick.' The
work embraces the most varied topics, — political parties, religious eccentricities,
the flights of literature, and the absurdities of pretenders to learning, all corae
in for their share of satire ; while in other papers we have specimens of genuine
American exaggerations, or graphic pictures of social and domestic Ufe as it is
more especially in the ruder districts and in the back settlements, or again
sallies of broad humour, exhibiting those characteristics which form in the
country itself the subject of mutual persiflage between the citizens of different
States. The work will have a wide circulation." — John Bull.

In 2 vols. 8vo. with Illustrations, and a valuable Map of European Turkey, from
the most recent Charts in the possession of the Austrian and Turkish
Governments, revised by the Author, 28s. bound.
TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY
IN 1850:
THROUGH BOSNIA, SERVIA, BUI GARIA, MACEDONIA, ROUMELIA, ALBANIA, AND
EPIHUS; WITH A VISIT TO GREECE AND THE IONIAN ISLES, AND A HOME
WARD TOUR THROUGH HUNGARY AND THE SCLAVONIAN PROVINCES
OF AUSTRIA ON THE LOWER DANUBE.
By EDMUND SPENCER, ESQ.
Author of " Travels in Circassia," &c.

" These important volumes appear at an opportune moment, as they describe
some of those countries to which public attention is now more particularly
directed : Turkey, Greece, Hungary, and Austria. The author has given ns a
most interesting picture of the Turkish Empire, its weaknesses, and the em
barrassments from which it is now suffering, its financial difficulties, the discon
tent of its Christian, and the turbulence of a great portion of its Mohammedan
subjects. We are also introduced for the first time to the warlike mountaineers
of Bosnia, Albania, Upper Moesia, and the almost inaccessible districts of the
Pindus and the Balkan. The different nationalities of that Babel-like country,
Turkey in Europe, inhabited by Sclavonians, Greeks, Albanians, Alacedonians,
the Rimani and Osmanli — their various characteristics, religions, superstitions,
together with their singular customs and manners, their ancient and contem
porary history are vividly described. The Ionian Islands, Greece, Hungary, and
the Sclavonian Provinces of Austria on the Lower Danube, are all delineated in
the author's happiest manner.
" We cordially recommend Mr. Spencer's valuable and interesting volumes to
the attention of the reader. They are replete with information upon countries of
which we know but Uttle ; they will be interesting to the military man for the
details they give of the strength and defensive positions of the various countries
through which the author travelled ; to the merchant for the insight given into
the state of trade ; and to the man of the world as they place before his view the
present political and social state of an empire, whose welfare it is the interest of
England to promote. The work must be considered a standard production,
enriched, as it is, by an excellent map derived from the most authentic modern
charts, added to, and improved by the observations of the author during his
travels." — United Service Magazine.
" A work of great merit, and of paramount present interest." — Standard.
" This interesting work contains hy far the most complete, the most en
lightened, and the most reliable amount of what has been hitherto almost the
terra incognita of European Turkey, and supplies the reader with abundance of
entertainment as well as instruction." — John BulL
"An excellent and admirable work. Mr. Spencer is a very able writer, a
shrewd, experienced anil philosophical observer, an eminently thinking and yet
practical man. His work forms tbe most valuable addition that our literature has
lately received. He sets forth to inquire and learn; he returns to inform and
suggest; and information most valuable and interesting has he here bestowed
upon us." — Tail's Magazine.

HEYELATIONS OF SIBERIA
BY A BANISHED LADY.
Second Edition. 2 vols. Post 8to., 21s. bound.
" The authoress of these volumes was a lady of quality, who, having incurred
the displeasure of the Russian Government for a political offence, was exiled to
Siberia. The place of her exile was Berezov, the most northern pari of this
northern penal settlement ; and in it she spent about two years, not unprofitably,
as the reader will find by her interesting work, containing a lively and graphic
picture of the country, the people, their manners and customs, &c. The book
gives a most important and valuable insight into the economy of what has been
hitherto the terra incognita of Russian despotism." — Daily News.
" Since the publication of the famous romance the ' Exiles of Siberia,' of
Madame Cottin, we have had no account of these desolate lands raore attractive
than the present work, from the pen of the Lady Eve Felinska, which, in its un
pretending style and truthful simplicity, will win its way to the reader's heart,
and compel him to sympathise with the fair sufferer. The series of hardships
endured in traversing these frozen solitudes is affectingly told ; and once settled
down at one of the most northern points of the convict territory, Berezov, six
hundred miles beyond Tobolsk, the Author exhibits an observant eye for the
natural phenomena of those latitudes, as well as the habits of the semi-barbarous
aborigines. This portion of the book will b« found by the naturalist as well as
ethnologist full of valuable information." — Glohe.
"These ' Revelations' give us a novel and interesting sketch of Siberian life — the
habits, morals, manners, religious tenets, rites, and festivals of the inhabitants. The
details of the author's painful journey will be perused with feelings of indignation
and deep sympathy. "The record of her residence of nearly three years at Berezov,
which constitutes the most valuable part of her ' Revelations,' does credit to her
heart and her understanding. Her extraordinary powers of observation, and the
graceful facility with which she describes everything worthy of remark, render
her ' Revelations' as attractive and fascinating as they are original an4 instruc
tive." — Britannia.

AUSTRALIA AS IT IS:
ITS SETTLEMENTS, FARMS, AND GOLD FIELDS.
BY F. LANCELOTT, ESQ.,
MiNERALOGICAL SURVEYOR IN THE AUSTRALIAN COLONIES.
2 vols. Post 8vo., 21s. bound.

ADVENTUEES of the CONN AUGHT RANGERS.
SECOND SERIES.
BY WILLIAM GRATTAN, ESQ.,
Late Lieutenant Connaught Rangers. 2 vols. Post 8vo., 21s. bound.

EIGHT YEARS
IN PALESTINE, SYRIA, AND ASIA MINOR.
BY F. A. NEALE, ESQ.,
LATE ATTACHED TO THE CONSULAR SERVICE IN SYRIA.
Second Edition, in 2 Vols., with Illustrations, 21s. bound.
" One of the best accounts of the country and people that has been published
of late years." — Spectator.
" A very agreeable book. Mr. Neale is evidently quite famiUar with the
East, and writes in a Uvely, shrewd, and good humoured manner. A great
deal of information is to be found in his pages." — Atherueum.
" We have derived unmingled pleasure from the perusal of these interesting
volumes. Very rarely have we found a narrative of Eastern travel so truthful
and just. There is no guide-book we would so strongly recommend to the
traveller about to enter on a Turkish or Syrian tour as this before us. The
information it affords is especially valuable, since it is brought up almost to the
last moment. The narrative, too, is full of incident, and abounds in vivid pic
tures of Turkish and Levantine life interspersed with well-told tales. The
author commences his narrative at Gaza ; visits Askalon, Jaffa and Jerusalem,
Caipha and Mount Carmel, Acre, Sidon and Tyre, Beyrout, TripoU, Antioch,
Aleppo, Alexandretta, Adana, and Cyprus. Of several of these famous localities
we know no more compact and clearer account than that given in these volumes.
We have to thank Mr. Neale for one of the best books of travels that we have
met with for a very long time." — Literary Gazette.

KHARTOUM AND THE NILES.
By GEORGE MELLY, ESQ.
Second Edition. 2 v. post 8vo., with Map and Illustrations, 21s. bound.
" Independently of the amusement and information which may be derived
from Mr. Melly's interesting work, the references to the relations which exist
at this time between the SubUme Porte and E jypt are worthy of every conside
ration which statesmen and public men can bestow upon them." — Messenger.
" We cannot feel otherwise than grateful to the author of these valuable and
useful volumes for having kept so faithful a journal, and for giving the pubUc
the benefit of his adventures and experience. The manners and customs of
the natives, as well as the natural curiosities, and the relics of antiquity which
the travellers visited, in turns engage the reader's attention; and, altogether'^ the
book is a most entertaining and instructive vade-mecum to the interesting portion
of the East of which it treats." — John Bull.

SCENES FROM SCRIPTURE.
By THK REV. G. CROLY, LL.D.
Author of " S vlathiel," .Jvc., 1 v., 10s. 6d. bound.
" Eminent in every mode of hterature, Dr. Croly stands, in our judgment, first
among the living poets of Great Britain — the only man of our day entitled by his
power to venture within the sacrod circle of religious poets." — Standard.
"An admirable addition to the library of reUgious famiUes." — John Bull.

NARRATTVE OF
FIVE YEARS' RESIDENCE AT NEPAUL.
By CAPTAIN THOMAS SMITH,
Late Assistant Political-Resident at Nepaul. 2 v. post 8vo. 21s. bound.
" No man could be better qualified to describe Nepaul than Captain Smith ;
and his concise, but clear and graphic account of its history, its natural produc
tions, its laws and customs, and the character of its warUke inhabitants, is very
agreeable and instructive reading. A separate chapter, not the least entertaining
iu the book, is devoted to anecdotes of the Nepaulese mission, of whom, and of
their visit to Europe, many remarkable stories are told." — Post.
" No one need go elsewhere for information about Nepaul. He will find it al>
arranged in this intelligent and interesting work with perspicuity and complete
ness. It will henceforth be the standard work on Nepaul. Captain Smith's
narrative of his personal adventures is most exciting." — United Service Gazette.

CANADA AS IT WAS, IS, AND MAY BE.
By the late Lieutenant-Colonel Sir R. Bonnycastle.
With an Account of Recent Transactions,
By SIR JAMES E. ALEXANDER, K.L.S., &c.
2 v., post 8vo., with Maps, &c. 21s. bound.
" These volumes offer to the British public a clear and trustworthy statement
of the affairs of Canada; a narrative of the late troubles, their causes and
consequences ; an account of the policy pursued in the colony, and the effects
of the immense public works in progress and completed ; with sketches of
localities and scenery, amusing anecdotes of personal observation, and generally
every information which may be of use to the traveller or settler, aud the military
and political reader. The information rendered is to be thoroughly reUed on as
veracious, fuU, and conclusive." — Messenger.
" This is the best work on Canada for every class of readers — the most
complete, the most important, and the most interesting." — Sunday Times.

SPAIN AS IT IS.
By G. a. HOSKINS, ESQ.
2 v., with IUustrations, 21s. bound.
" To the tourist this work will prove invaluable. It is the most complete and
interesting portraiture of Spain that has ever come under our notice." — John Bull.

COLONEL LAN DM ANN'S ADVENTURES
AND RECOLLECTIONS.
2 vols, post 8vo. 21s. bound.
" Among the anecdotes in this work will he found notices of King George III.,
the Dukes of Kent, Cumberland, Cambridge, Clarence, and Richmond, the Princess
Augusta, General Garth, Sir Harry Mildraay, Lord Charles Somerset, Lord Edward
Fitzgerald, Lord Heathfield, Captain Grose, &c. The volumes abound in inte
resting matter. The anecdotes are one and all amusing." — Observer.
" Colonel Landmann's work is written in an unaffected spirit, and contains
matter of agreeable and lively interest." — Literary Gazette.
" These ' Adventures and Recollections' are those of a gentleman whose birth
and profession gave him facilities of access to distinguished society; and the
interest of the volumes will be found to consist in anecdotes and recollections
relating to individual members of that society. Colonel Landmann writes so
agreeably that we have little doubt that his volumes will be acceptable. They
partake, to some extent, both of the good and bad quaUties of Horace Walpole
and of Wraxall." — Athenceum.

THE ROMANCE OE THE EORUM ;
OR, NARRATIVES, SCENES, AND ANECDOTES FROM
COURTS OF JUSTICE.
By PETER BURKE, ESQ., Barrister-at-Law. 2 v. 21s.
" These attractive volumes will be perused with much interest. They contain
a great variety of singular and highly romantic stories." — John Bull
" Few who once take up these volumes will lay them down unread." — Examiner.
" Nothing can be more deeply interesting or affecting than many of these
narratives." — Observer.

D A R I E N

OR, THE MERCHANT PRINCE.
By ELIOT WARBURTON.
Author of " The Crescent and the Cross,'' &c., Second Edition. 3 v.
" The scheme for the colonization of Darien by Scotchmen, and the opening
of a communication between the East and West across the Isthmus of Panama,
furnishes the foundation of this story, which is in all respects worthy of the
high reputation which the author of the 'Crescent and the Cross' had already
made for himself. The early history of the Merchant Prince introduces the
reader to the condition of Spain under the Inquisiiiou; tbe portraitures of
Scottish life which occupy a prominent place in the narrative, are full of spirit;
the scenes in America exhibit the stale of the natives of the new world at that
period; the daring deeds of the Buccaneers supply u most romantic element in
the story ; and an additional interest is infused into it hy the introduction of
various celebrated characters of the period, such as Law, the French financier,
and Patcrson, the founder of flic Hank of England. -Ml these varied ingredients
are treated with that brilliancy of style and pmvei-ful descriptive talent, by which
the pen of Eliot Warburton was so eminently distinguished." — John BulL

LORD PALMERSTON'S OPINIONS
AND POLICY;
AS MINISTER, DIPLOMATIST, AND STATESMAN,
during more than forty years of PUBLIC LIFE.
1 V. 8vo., with Portrait, 12s. bound.
" This work ought to have a place in every political Ubrary. It gives a com
plete view of the sentiments and opinions by which the policy of Lord
Palmerston has been dictated as a diplomatist and statesman." — Chronicle,
" This is a remarkable and seasonable publication ; but it is something more —
it is a valuable addition to the historical treasures of our country during more
than forty of the most memorable years of our annals. We earnestly recommend
the voJume to general perusal." — Standard.

EIVE YEARS IN THE WEST INDIES.
BY CHARLES W. DAY, ESQ.
2 v., with Illustrations, 21s. bound.
" These interesting volumes possess considerable merit as regards information
on that important subject, the state of the West Indies as they are at present." —
Sun. " It would be unjust to deny the vigour, briUiancy, and varied interest of this
work, the abundant stores of anecdote and interest, and the copious detail of
local habits and pecuUarities in each island visited in succession." — Globe.

HISTORY OF THE
BRITISH CONQUESTS IN INDIA.
BY HORACE ST. JOHN. 2 v. 21s. bound.
" A work of great and permanent historical value and interest." — Post.
" A fair and accurate narrative of the political history of British India, evi
dently written after careful study and laborious research." — Literary Gazette.
" The style is graphic and spirited. The facts are well related and artistically
grouped. The narrative is always readable and interesting." — Athenceum.

HISTORY OF CORFU;
AND OF THE REPUBLIC OF THE IONIAN ISLANDS.
BY LIEUT. H. J. W. JERVIS, Royal Artillery.
1 v., with Illustrations, 10s. 6d. bound.
" A work of great value, from the importance of Corfu in case of an European
war." — Literary Gazette.
" Written with great care and research, and including probably all the
particulars of any moment in the history of Corfu. The principal interest will
attach to the military details and the concluding account of the present state of
the island." — Athenieum.

ATLANTIC & TRANSATLANTIC SKETCHES.
By captain MACKINNON, R.N. 2 v. 21s. bound.
" Captain Mackinnon's sketches of America are of a striking character and
permanent value. His voluraes convey a just impression of the United States, a
fair and candid view of their society and institutions, so well written and so
entertaining that the effect of their perusal on the public here must he con
siderable. They are Ught, animated, and Uvely, full of racy sketches, pictures of
life, anecdotes of society, visits to remarkable men and famous places, sporting
episodes, &c., very original and interesting." — Sunday Times.
" Captain Mackinnon's sketches of America are perhaps the best that have
appeared since the work of Captain Marryat, and they are far more candid aud
impartial. The volumes are crowded with valuable and important statements.
The work will find its way rapidly into wide and general circulation, such is its
justice, candour, and accuracy of information." — Observer.

NAVAL ARCHITECTURE:
A TREATISE ON SHIP-BUILDING, AND THE RIG OF CLIPPERS,
WITH SUGGESTIONS FOR A NEW METHOD OF LAYING DOWN VESSELS.
By lord ROBERT MONTAGU, A.M.
Second Edition, with 54 Diagrams, 6s. bound.
"In this able work, Lord Robert Montaju has treated an important subject
in the most comprehensive and masterly manner. The pubUcation will be equally
valuable to the ship-builder and the ship-owner — to the mariner aud tbe com
manders of yachts. The whnle science of ship-biiilding is made plain to the
humblest underslanding, while the most valuable sug.:e5ticiis are given for its
improvement in the rig, structure, and laving down ot vessels." — ('. 5. Mag.

ARCTIC MISCELLANIES,
A SOUVENIR OF THE LATE POL.\R SEARCH.
BY THE OFFICERS AND SEAMEN OF THE EXPEDITION.
DEDICATED BV PERMISSION TO THE LORDS OF THE ADMIRALTY.
Second Edition, 1 vol. with numerous Illustrations, 10s. Gd. bound.
From the "Timics." — This volume is not the least interesting or instructive
among the records of the late expedition in search of Sir John Franklin, com
manded by Captain .\ustin. The most viiluable portions of the book are those
which relate to the scieiititie and practical observations made in the course of the
e.\peihtion, and the ilesovi|iiions of seencry and incidents of arctic travel. Many
of Ibe latter possess Cdiisiilerable literary merit, ond all ai-e impresseil with the
vividness of fresh iiliseivaiion. From the variety of the materials, and the
novelty of the seenes and iinidents to wliieh lliey refer, no less than the interest
which all.ielu's tn all that rclntes to the probable safety of Sir John Franklin and
his companions, the .\ietic Miscellanies forms a very readable book, and one that
redounds to the lionuur of the national character.

Mm Wmh nf fiilim, lii[ iistingEisjiiii Wiiim.
CASTLE AVON.
By the Author of " Emilia Wyndham,'' " Eavensoliffe,'' &c. 3 vols.

UNCLE WALTER, BY MRS. TROLLOPE.
Author of "Father Eustace,'' "The Barnabys," &c. 3 vols.
"'Uncle Walter' is Mrs. TroUope's best novel since 'Widow Barnaby.'" —
Moming Chronicle:
"'Uncle Walter' is an exceedingly entertaining novel. It assures Mrs. Trol-
lope more than ever in her position as one of the ablest fiction writers of the
day.'' — Morning Post.
"'Uncle Walter' is filled throughout with Mrs. TroUope's broad satirical
dashes at human nature." — Daily Neivs.
" A very clever and entertaining book ; equal to Mrs. TroUope's most success
ful efforts." — John Bull.

ADAM GRAEME OF MOSSGRAY.
A STORY OF SCOTTISH LIFE.
By the Author of " Margaret Maitland," &c. 3 vols.
" A story awakening genuine emotions of interest and delight by its admirable
pictures of Scottish Ufe and scenery." — Post.
" ' Adam Graeme' is full of eloquent writing and description. It is an un
common work, not only in the power of the style, in the eloquence of the
digressions, in the interest of the narrative, aud in the deUneation of character,
but in the lessons it teaches." — Sun.

ANNETTE. A Tale.
BY W. F. DEACON.
With a Memoir of the Author, by the
Hon. Sh T.N. Talfourd, D.C.L. 3 v.
" 'Annette' is a stirring tale, and has
enough in it of life and interest to keep it
for some years to come in request. "The
prefatory memoir by Sir Thomas Talfourd
would be at all times interesting, nor the less
so for containing two long letters from Sir
Walter Scott to Mr. Deacon, full of gentle
far-thinking wisdom." — Examiner.
MARY SEAHAM.
BY MRS. GREY,
Author of "The Gambler's "Wife," &c.
3 V.
" Equal to any former novel by its author.'*
— Afkentsum. "A very interesting story." — Obs&nfer.
"An admirable work — a powerfully con
ceived novel, founded on a plot of high
moral and dramatic interest." — John Bull.

COI^FESSIOTil'S OP AK"
ETOIflAK.
BY CHARLES ROWCROFT, ESQ.
Author of
" Tales of the Colonies." &c. 3 v.
" The life of an Etonian— hia pranks, his
follies, his loves, his fortunes, and misfor
tunes—is here amusingly drawn and happily
coloured by an accomplished artist. The
work is full of anecdote and lively painting
of men and manners,"- G^ofie.
THE BELLE OP THE
VILLAGE.
By the Author of
" The Old EngUsh Gentleman." 3 v.
" An admirable stoiy, quite out of the
common order in its conception, and highly
original in its execution. 'The Belle of the
Village' may take its place by the side of
¦¦The Old English Gentleman.' "—JoA»Bw«.

POPULAR WORKS OP FICTI03V,

THE KINWEARS.
A SCOTTISH STORY. 3 v.
HELEN TALBOT.
BY MISS PENNEFATHER. 3 v.
" Miss Pennefather has in this work
evinced much literary abiiify. The fashion-
able circle in which the principal personage
of the novel moves is dnupii with a bold and
graphic pencil. We have no doubt that
in Lord Montagu, Sir Reginald Talbot, Lord
Ravensdale, and others, those conversant
with fashionable life will recognise living
acquaintances."— G/o6c,
RAVENSCLIPPE.
By the Author of
" EmiHa Wyndham," &c. 3 v.
"'Raveiificliffe' contains scenes not sur
passed in power and beauty by those in
'The Admiral's Daughter.' No reader can
bear the heroine company without feeHng
the same sense of powerlessness to cope
with the fascinations of a dark destiny which
is conveyed by the stories of Richardson's
*C)aiissii,' and Scott's 'Lucy Ashton.' This
is praise enough— yet not too much."—
AthentEum.
FANNY DENNISON.
3 V.
*' A story of absorbing interest "—Globe.
" A novel of more than ordinary merit An
exciting story, crowded with romantic inci
dents."— Jlforwin^- Post.
JACOB BENDIXEN.
BY MARY HOWITT. 3 v.
"This tale has the fascination and the value
of a glimpse into a most strange world. We
heartily commend the iwvei."— At /tenetum.
MRS. MATHEWS;
OR, F.VMILY MYSTERIES-
BY MRS. TROLLOl'E. 3i-.
ADVENTUEES OP A
BEAUTY.
BY MRS. CROWE.
Author of "Susan IIiijiIl')," &c. 3 v.
HEARTS AND ALTARS.
1!Y 1U)I3ERT BKl.L, ElSQ.
Author 111'
" The Ladder of Cold," &c. 3 v.

BROOMHILL ;
OR, THE COUNTY BEAUTIES.
3 V.
AMY PAUL.
A TALE. 2 V.
"The execution of this tale is very re-
mark<il)le." — !ipef:ttttor.
"There is a familj' likeness to 'Eugene
Aram' in this pow'erfully written romance.
The moral is well worked out. The situa
tions are well imagined, and pourtrayed with
highly dramatic effect."— Jo/in Bull.
CALEB FIELD.
By the Author of
" Margaret Maitland," &e. 1 v. 6s.
"This beautiful production is every way
worthy of its auth t's rrimtaiiou in the very
first rank of contemporary writers."— SVanrf.
'"Caleb Field* is a st.>r)- of moving interest,
full of novelty, and abounding in scenes of
graphic beauty."— Sunday Timet.
The LOST INHERITANCE. 3t.
"This interesting story will afford both
profit and amusement lo a large circle of
readers."— ./fera/d,
"A charming tale of fitshionable Hfe and
tender passions. It is extremely interesting
asahiehly-romaiifc history of the aftVclious,
and au exceedinir y bnilijut series of fashion
able scenes."— G/oAc.
CECILE ;
OR, THE PERVERT.
By the .\uthor of " Rockingham." 1 v.
The LADY and the PRIEST.
BY .MRS. M.A.BERLY. 3 v.
The PERILS of FASHION.
3 V.
" The world of fashion is here painted by '
an artist who has studied it closely, and
truces ill lineaments with a masterly hand."
— Morning t'o...!.
THE LIVINGSTONES.
A STORY OF REAL LIFE. 3 v.
" This work has a real interest. The pic
tures of Ihe Scottish homes, in which the
heroine's youth ia past, are excellent,"—
Ej:aminer.

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