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YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY Gift of
Sarah S. Love

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SKETCHES

ON THE

SHORES OF THE CASPIAN,

DESCRIPTIVE AND PICTORIAL.

BY WILLIAM RICHARD HOLMES.
¦ *1

LONDON:
RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET.
19uultef)tr in ©rouwrt) to ftn iHajcstp,
1845.

LONDON :
Printed by S. & J. Bentley, Wilson, and Fist,
Bangor House, Shoe Lane,

PREFACE.

A very young Author presents this his first at
tempt to the ordeal of public opinion, with no
small amount of fear lest he should be accused
of presumption for offering himself and his pro
duction to the world at all. In his own justifi
cation, however, he ventures to assign the follow
ing reason for so doing. His position in the house
of his relative, Mr. James Brant, Her Majesty's
Consul at Erzeroom, afforded him an opportunity
of visiting a country, interesting indeed, and but
little trodden. He availed himself of it ; and now
places before the public the result of his enter
prise, in the persuasion that he will meet with
that indulgence always so generously awarded in
his own happy land to efforts which are design
ed to convey a more perfect knowledge of coun
tries hitherto but partially explored.
The English works on the Persian provinces
on the shores of the Caspian Sea, already publish
ed, are, the Author believes, limited to two or
three ; one by Jonas Hanway, who travelled there
in the time of Nadir Shah, early in the last cen
tury ; another by Fraser, entitled " Adventures on

IV PREFACE.
the Shores of the Caspian," written about twenty
years ago, which in truth contains but scanty in
formation, — since which, also, many changes have
taken place ; and a short paper, by Major Tod,
published in the Journal of the Geographical
Society. In committing the following Sketches to the
press, the Author claims to himself only one merit,
namely, that they were written on the spot of
which they profess to give a description, and
that they are a faithful account of what passed
under his observation.

CONTENTS,

CHAPTER I.

PAGE

t*

Departure from Tabreez. — Our Party. — Borringe, — Cha
racter of the Mountains. — The Adgee Chai.— Khodjeh. — De
parture from Khodjeh. — Breakfast. — Position of Villages. —
Kuzi Kapan. — The Inhabitants.— Ke-khoda. — Vermin. —
Buying a Holiday. — Mountains of Karadaugh. — Old Cara
vanserai. — The Roads. — Ahar. — Mines of Urghurt. — Copper ,.'
Mines.— Seyeed Khan. — Tomb of Shahaub-u-deen. — Super
stition . . . . . . .1
CHAPTER II.
Departure from Ahar. — Gheun-deughdee. — Kaleh-bashee.
— Game. — Arrival at Meezaum — Shah- sevens. — Robbery. —
Savalaun Daugh. — Mishkeen. — Arrival at Loree. — Dinner. —
Our Cook. — " Tweel." — Dismal Weather. — Leave Loree. —
Soomaree. — Ruined Castle. — Bad Quarters. — Vermin. — De
parture from Soomaree. — The Shah-seven Tribe. — Their num
bers in Mishkeen  In Ardebeel. — Arrive at Ardebeel. — Un
inhabitable Lodgings. — Removal to better. — The Vekeel. —
Letters from England . . . . .20
CHAPTER III.
Visit to the Vekeel. — Tombs of the Sheik Suffee-u-deen
and Shah Ismael. — The Fortress. — Turkish and Persian Man
ners. — Prisoners in the Fort. — Legend. — Description of Arde- b

vi CONTENTS. PAGE
beel. — Departure. — Pintailed Grouse. — Arrive at Nemeen. —
A Princess  ^Description of Nemeen.— Departure.— Shinghian
Kaleh. — Descend the Mountains. — Tent-dwelling Tribes. —
Bad Road. — Scenery. — Kishveh. — Night-fall. — Reach Astara 36
CHAPTER IV.
Astara. — The River. — Cutting . Iron. — Ghileh-keran. —
Revenue of Meer Caussim Khan's District — Fishing. — The
Caspian. — Costume of the Peasantry. — Difficulty of obtaining
Information. — Departure from Astara. — Shells. — Scenery of
the Coast. — Arrival at Hehvee. — Wild Hog. — Hehvee. — De
parture. — Names of Rivers. — The Kerghanagh-rood. — Village
of Kerghanagh. — A kind Invitation. — Ferrajoollah Beg. —
Civility. — Persian Dinner. — Persian Appetite. — We remain
a day at Kerghanagh — Royal Tiger. — Wild Beasts inhabit
ing Gheelaun. — Persian Manner of Eating. — Leave Kergha
nagh. — A Taulish House. — Mode of Collecting Attendants. —
Take leave of the Beg. — The Kummer. — Fishing. — Modes of
taking Wild Fowl. — Rivers forded during the day. — Arrival
at Coopoorchar. — Taulish . . . .51
CHAPTER V.
Departure from Coopoorchar. — Approach Enzellee. — Our
Quarters. — Present from the Governor. — Fishing. — Bad Wea
ther. — Receive Visits. — Persian Window  An Invitation. —
Mohamed Ameen Khan. — Soldiery. — ^Military Resources of
Gheelaun. — Calling the Muster-roll  The Admiral of the
Caspian. — Review. — Cannon and Foundry at Enzellee. 
" Bust." — Visit to the Admiral. — Remarks. — A satisfactory
Conclusion. — Fine Day! — The Lake of Enzellee. — Rivers
flowing into it. — Fishes — Boats. — Pelicans. — Rain. — Phea
sant shooting.— Enzellee — Its Trade. — Its Revenue. — Price
of Provisions. — Departure for Peeree Bazar. — Arrival. —
Horses. — The Road to Resht. — The Mongodeh River. — Cause
of the Bad State of the Road  Arrival at Resht . 70

CONTENTS. vii
CHAPTER VI. PAGE
Lodgings. — Hadgee Mohamed Allee. — Hadgee Meer Is
mael. — A Persian Connoisseur in Drawing. — Superstition re
garding the Pig.— Resht — Its Population. — Bazar. — Style of
the Buildings. — Revenue. — Silk. — Account of the Silk-worm.
— Qualities of the Silk. — Mulberry Plantations. — Annual
amount of Silk. — Manner of Exportation. — Obtain a Bath. —
Pheasant Shooting  A Wild Beast. — The Jackal. — Eclipse
of the Moon. — Fortunate and Unfortunate Days. — Objections
to Mr. A.'s Improved Reel . . . . .89
CHAPTER VII.
A Fortunate Day — Departure from Resht. — Nature of
the Country. — The Sefeed-rood. — Ferry. — Kesoun. — Road to
Lahijan. — Arrival — My White Hat  Mahomed Allee Khan.
— Lahijan. — Regarding Estimates of Population. — Revenue.
— Visit the Governor. — Leave Lahijan. — Old Causeway. —
Scenery. — Arrival at Langarood  Meer Aboo Talib Khan's
Summer-house. — Revenue. — Start for the Sefeed-rood. — The
Langarood River. — Wild Fowl. — Fish. — Wild Duck Catchers.
— A Predicament. — Reach the Sefeed-rood  Our Quarters.
— The Colony of Russian Fishermen. — Particulars of the
Fishery. — Caviare. — Dried Fish  Isinglass. — Rent of the
Fishery. — Geography of the Coast  Rising and Falling of
the Caspian. — Picturesque Bridge. — Remains of Elton's Ship.
— Boys fishing . . . . . .110
CHAPTER VIII.
Leave Langarood. — Arrival at Rood-i-sir. — An Accident.
— Rood-i-sir. — Hidden Treasure. — Game  Description of
Gheelaun. — Departure from Rood-i-sir.— Scenery of the Coast.
— Rivers forded during the day. — Snares for Pheasants. —
Gipsies. — Arrive at Surimioo. — -Curious Patten. — Precautions
against Wild Beasts. — Aub-i-gherm. — Leave Surimroo. —

Vlll CONTENTS. PAGE
Rivers. — Azad-mahee Fishery. — The Azad-mahee. — Zuvvar.
— Curious Fire-place. — Leave Zuvvar. — Ussuf Sultaun. —
Reach Abbasabad. — Wild Boar. — Abbasabad. — Continue our
Journey. — Rivers along the Coast. — A Bear. — Arrive at Ker-
paroo. — Districts of Tennacorben, Kellauristauk, and Coojoor.
— Departure. — Scenery. — Wild Fowl.. — Rivers along the
Coast. — Arrival at Serrordin Kellati. — Vain attempts to obtain
a Lodging — A Mistake, and the Consequences. — Method of
Stacking Rice . . . . . .131
CHAPTER IX.
Continue our Route — Rivers along the Coast. — Noor. —
Reach Izzut-deh. — Sugar  Departure. — Marshy Forest. 
The Allem-rood — The Harrauz — Swimming the Horses
over. — A scene of Confusion. — Talligi-sir. — Our Lodgings 
A merry Christmas ! —Wintry appearance of the Country. —
Road to Aumil. — The Meerza unhorsed. — Aumil. — The Dis
trict of Aumil — Bridge. — Mausoleum of Seyed Ghwaum-u-
deen.— Iron Mines of Allisherood.— Road to Tehraun  Leave
Aumil. — Shah Abbas' Causeway. — Game. — Rice Mill  Ar
rival at Borfroosh.— Our Quarters. — Receive a Visit from the
Prince's Meerza.— The Baugh-i-Shah.— The Prince's Apart
ment.— Ardeshir Meerza — His Attachment to the Bottle. 
Receive and pay Visits.— Abbas Kooly Meerza. — Lovely
Scenery . . . . . _ _ ]52
CHAPTER X.
Aide-i-Koorban.— The Prince receives a Khalaat from Teh
raun.— Ride out to witness the Investiture  Return to Town.
—Borfroosh.— Causes of its Decay.— The Streets  Bazars-
Situation — Extent.— Revenue.— Trade.— We obtain a Bath.
— Remarks. — The Province of Mauzunderoon. — Its Situa
tion — Appearance.— Wild Animals.— Districts  Salary of
the Governor.— Inhabitants.— Military Force— Language of
the Peasantry — Wandering Tribes.— Productions.— Rice 
Sugar— Cotton — Grain.— Fruits.— The Revenue.— Admi-

CONTENTS. ix
TAGE

nistration. — Roads.— Rivers — Fish  Climate. —Similarity
to India — Invitation to a Hog-hunt.— The River Bawbil 
Dine with Ardeshir Meerza.— The Decorations of the Table.
— The Prince's Drawings — Dinner. — Persian Music and Mu
sicians. — Daoud Meerza.— The Zil-i-Sultaun  Take Leave . 176

CHAPTER XI.
Road to Meshed-i-sir.— Sheep.— Meshed-i-sir. — The Trade.
— Sturgeon Fishery.— Method of catching Wild Fowl. — Duck
Shooting. — The Imaumzadeh Ibrahim  Dine again with the
Prince. — Abbas Kooly Khan. — The Amusements of the Even
ing. — Miserable Condition of our Horses. — The Prince and
Court intoxicated at Mid-day. — Road to Alleeabad  Allee-
abad. — Departure. — The Causeway  Beautiful Scenery 
Surkehkellaw — The Causeway again. — Arrive at Saree 
The Palace. — Description of Saree. — Fortifications. — Ancient
Buildings. — The G oombuz-i-Selm-i-Toor. — Aub-ambars. —
The Bazars. — The Streets. — Caravanserais. — Trade.— Tribes
inhabiting Saree . . . . . .197

CHAPTER XII.
Receive Visits — The Aid-i-cadar. — A Persian Garden. —
Seed-time and Harvest in Mauzunderoon. — Bridge over the
Thedjin. — Dervishes at Saree. — Linen Manufactures. — A
Physiognomist. — Visit the Vekeel. — System of Education in
Persia. — Leave Saree. — Road to Ferrabad. — Arrival at Ferra-
bad. — Quarters. — Pleasure-house of Shah Abbas. — Trade of
Ferrabad. — Poverty of the Inhabitants. — Sturgeon Fisheries
of Mauzunderoon. — Their total Produce. — Carp, Sefeed-mahee,
and Azad-mahee Fishery. — Departure from Ferrabad. — Pre
vailing winds on the Coast. — Road to Karatuppeh. — Tumuli.
— Karatuppeh. — View from the top of the Mound. — Regarding
the Affghauns in Mauzunderoon. — Bad Water. — Ruins at
Shah-keelaw. — Late Arrival of our Baggage . . .217

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XIII. PAGE
Leave Karatuppeh.— Soofeeabad,— Reach Ashreff.— De
scription of the various Gardens and Palaces.— Ashreff. — De
parture. — Arrival at Reckhiaubeen. — Our Lodgings. — Road
to Gez.— Curious Grave-Stones. — The Jair-i-Koulbad.— Ar
rive at Gez. — Manner of building Houses. — Disappointed in
our attempts to visit Arshourada. — At last succeed in ob
taining a Boat. — Passage across the Bay. — Reach the Rus
sian Vessels. — Mr. Duhamel. — The Steamer. — The Araxe,
fourteen-gun Brig. — Arshourada. — Unhealthy Climate. —
Sickness and Mortality among the Sailors. — Habitations on
the Island. — Grave-yard. — Regarding the Presence of the
Russians at Arshourada. — The Mode of Life of the Officers.
— Their Pay. — Return to Gez in the Steamer. — Astonishment
of our Persian Servants. — The Bay of Astrabad — The Land
ing. — Preparations for Departure .... 235
CHAPTER XIV.
Departure from Gez. — Kafshigeeree. — Toorcoman Incur
sions. — Ink. — Sesame. — Leave Kafshigeeree. — Thievish Pro
pensities of the Natives. — Our Gholaum. — Arrival at Astra-
bad. — Suleiman Khan. — Anecdote. — Manner in which the
Khan obtained his Post. — A Gholaum wounded by a Toor
coman. — Humza Khan. — Sale of an Uncle. — Dinner. —
Scenery. — An Occasion of Serious Discomposure to Suleiman
Khan. — A Visit to the Desert. — The Party. — Suleiman
Khan's Son. — Met by some Toorcoman Chiefs. — A singular
Shooting Party. — Head-dress of the Toorcoman Women. —
The Encampment. — The Chief's Wife. — A Singer. — Break
fast. — Return to Astrabad . . . . .256
CHAPTER XV.
A Squirrel Hunter. — Yussuf Khan. — Astrabad. — Bazars. —
Streets — The Palace. — Artillery  Trade.— Revenue. — Pro-

CONTENTS. XI
PAGE
vince of Astrabad. — Administration. — The Governor and the
Toorcomans. — Border Warfare. — Character of the Toorco-
mans. — Their Appearance. — Their Trade. — Horses. — Reve
nue of the Province. — Military Force. — Probable Population.
— The Climate. — The Roads. — Rivers. — Fisheries. — Produc
tions — Coal in Shahkoo. — Antiquities . . . 277

CHAPTER XVI.
An Execution  Fate of the Nephew who sold his Uncle.
— The Moharrem. — Gibbon's Account of Hossein's Death. —
The Persian Story. — Representation of the return of Hossein's
Family to Medina. — Effect on the Multitude. — A Large Tree,
— Further Ceremonies usual at the Moharrem. . . 293

CHAPTER XVII.
Take leave of Suleiman Khan. — Quit Astrabad. — Miaun-
derreh. — Continue our Journey. — Cross the Mountains. — The
Megassee Caves. — Departure. — Sorver and Shahkoo. — Shem-
shir-bour. — Chehardeh. — Refuge Towers. — A Miraculous
Spring. — Cheshmeh Allee. — Fortified Villages. — Ayanoo. —
Deep-rooted Superstition. — Leave Ayanoo. — Toodervah. —
Shebkess. — Auhoowan — Caravanserai. — Legend. — Sacrilege
punished. — Old Ruin . . . . .312

CHAPTER XVIII.
Leave Auhoowan. — Partridges. — Arrive at Semnoon. —
Maimoon Khoneh. — Semnoon. — Legend. — Departure. — Wild
Sheep. — Surkeh. — Lasghird. — Abdoollahbad. — Reach Deh-
nummuck. — Continue our Journey. — Khaur, — Destruction of
the Grain Crops by Flies. — Kishlaugh — Arrival at Eywane-
kaif. — Veramine. — Palesht  Demawund — Tehraun. — Rev.
Dr. Wolff . . . . . . .331

xn CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XIX. PAGE
Description of Tehraun. — Race-course. — Ruins of Rhe 
Hadgee Meerza Aghassee. — Manner in which he became
Vizier. — Anecdotes. — Meerza Abool Hassan Khan. —
Mehmet Shah . . . . . .350
CHAPTER XX.
Leave Tehraun. — Chuppar Ride to Tabreez. — Bahman
Meerza. — Tabreez. — Ruins. — Manner of supplying the Town
with Water. — Bazars — Trade.— Gardens. — Norooz. — Leave
Persia . . . . . . .369

ILLUSTRATIONS.

LangaroodKhodjehResht
Mosque at Resht
Catching Wild Ducks
Ruins of the Jehan-numeh
AstrabadMountain,Pass from Astrabad .

To face the Title.

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6

.

93

. (Woodcut)

95

. do.

201

do.

225

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278

. (Woodcut)

317

SKETCHES

ON THE

SHORES OF THE CASPIAN.

CHAPTER I.

Departure from Tabreez. — Our Party. — Borringe. — Character of
the Mountains. — The Adgee Chai. — Khodjeh. — Departure from
Khodjeh. — Breakfast. — Position of Villages  Kuzi Kapan. —
The inhabitants. — Ke-khoda. — Vermin. — Buying a Holiday.
— Mountains of Karadaugh. — Old Caravanserai  The Roads. —
Ahar. — Mines of Urghurt. — Copper Mines. — Seyeed Khan. —
Tomb of Shahaub-u-deen. — Superstition.
On the afternoon of the 4th of November, 1843,
we left Tabreez accompanied by our English friends,
who, as is customary in Persia, came a short dis
tance with us before taking leave. The weather
was lowering, and a little rain fell, which was con
sidered peculiarly lucky by the Persians ; for, as it
is of such vital importance to agriculture in this
dry climate, they have connected with rain a super
stitious idea of general good-fortune.
Our party consisted of Mr. A., Her Majesty's
Consul at Tehraun, his Meerza (scribe), five servants,
and a Gholaum, Mohamed Rahim Beg, who had
B

2 OUR PARTY.
been sent by the prince, Bahman Meerza, as our
mehmandar, to procure lodgings and provisions,
and to see that we were treated with proper atten
tion. We were all armed ; but our servants were
so loaded with weapons, that in case of an attack
they would have proved more an incumbrance than
a protection. Their formidable appearance alone
would have sufficed to keep a party of double their
number at a respectful distance ; and we might
reasonably congratulate ourselves on the prospect
of travelling unmolested, and arriving safe at our
journey's end, provided our followers possessed one
tithe of the courage and devotion they boasted
while quietly riding through the suburbs of the
town. The Meerza, however, was essentially a man
of peace, and seemed to entertain a profound anti
pathy to anything warlike ; instead of sword and
dagger, he carried in his girdle a roll of paper and a
calemdaun (Persian inkstand), the peculiar type of
the professors of the pen.
Our baggage had preceded us to the village of
Borringe, about six miles from Tabreez, accompa
nied, and supposed to be defended in case of need,
by four grooms, the cook, and the muleteers.
The road from Tabreez to Borringe leads in an
easterly direction, through gardens and orchards,
the high mud-walls of which almost concealed the
beauty of the foliage; and the view is generally con
fined to the limits of a narrow, dusty lane.
On arriving at Borringe we found a small, square
chamber prepared for our reception ; carpets were
spread, and a solitary chair was standing dejectedly

BORRINGE. 3
in a corner, making an hospitable effort to give the
room rather an European appearance, but seemingly
convinced that it was a hopeless failure. However,
on the whole, things appeared cheerful, particularly
as dinner was immediately forthcoming ; which hav
ing discussed with due solemnity, we retired to rest,
in anticipation of a journey in which something of
the pleasant was expected by me, but a great deal
of the disagreeable was predicted by my friend.
We left Borringe at half past seven the next
morning, and proceeded in a northerly direction
towards a steep pass, through hills composed of red
sand-stone and granite. On emerging from this
pass, we travelled east, through a mountainous
country, almost totally uncultivated ; the soil being
so strongly impregnated with salt that no vegeta
tion exists, save some few plants peculiar to land
of that description.
Having ridden about six miles, we passed Gheun-
bund, a village of apparently twenty houses, situated
on the left, at the foot of the hills here bounding
the small barren plain through which our road lay.
The rugged crests of some of the surrounding
mountains rose in wild confusion, while others of
a less severe character presented a beautiful variety
of colouring. They principally consisted of sand
stone. Continuing through this scenery in a north-east
erly direction, small patches of cultivation being
here and there visible, we crossed a rivulet, the
water of which, though brackish, was drinkable;
and, a mile or two further on, we forded the Adgee,
B 2

4 KHODJEH.
or Bitter River. At this season it is very shallow,
and not more than thirty yards broad : the water is
clear and extremely salt. After making many
windings, it flows at this point in a north-westerly
direction, over a bed of sand and gravel, and, con
tinuing its course through the plain of Tabreez,
falls into the lake of Oroomia. In the spring, on
the melting of the snows, it is a rapid and consi
derable river ; later in the season, most of its water
is exhausted in irrigation ; and in the summer its
bed near the lake is frequently dry. The water of
the stream becomes more and more salt on its ap
proach to the lake, owing to the extensive saline
marshes surrounding it.
At half-past eleven a.m. we arrived at our rest
ing-place, the village of Khodjeh, bearing north
east at about sixteen miles from Borringe. With
some little noise, a house was cleared for our recep
tion, though the inhabitants seemed reluctant to
turn out. Our Gholaum, however, expedited mat
ters very efficiently, by a few cuffs and a torrent of
abuse. This, to a person unacquainted with the
East, might appear rather too arbitrary a measure,
but it is indispensable as the sole means of procur
ing a lodging; and perhaps often resistance is only
made to enhance the value of what is at last con
ceded. Sometimes it arises from the fear of being
compelled to furnish, gratis, everything that may be
required ; but if, on departure, the inhabitants be
well paid, all the harshness that may have been
used is forgotten, and they will generally beg you
to come to their house, should you ever again hap-

KHODJEH. 5
pen to pass their village. The inconvenience they
experience is trifling ; the furniture, consisting mere
ly of a few carpets, mattresses, coverlets, and some
cooking utensils, is removed directly, and, with the
inmates, is taken to a neighbour's house. I may
further add, that civility and compliance are in this
country taken as implying a sense of weakness and
inferiority : nothing can be done without bluster ;
and, the more overbearing one appears, the greater
degree of importance is inferred, and consequently
the greater attention and respect are shown.
On arriving here, we ordered tea : no one
but he who has experienced it, can imagine the
luxury of a cup of tea after a hot and fatiguing
ride. It soon made its appearance, but, to our as
tonishment, was so salt that it was scarcely drink
able. Having inquired of one of the servants whe
ther there was no fresh water to be procured in
the village, he protested that he had used fresh
water, and brought us some cold to taste. I could
not detect the least saltness, and the man affirmed
that it was from the same water he had made the
tea ; and on further examination we found that it
only became salt when boiled. Our head servant
had formerly been here with Sir John Macdonald,
and he now remembered that he was obliged to
throw away the tea made on that occasion. The
people drink no other water, and consider it ex
tremely wholesome. From their healthy appear
ance I should imagine they were correct.
Khodjeh contains about one hundred houses, and,
I was informed, three hundred inhabitants. It is

6 DEPARTURE FROM KHODJEH.
built on two small hillocks, situated in a plain, the
greater part of which is cultivated and appears to
be fertile : barley and wheat are produced, and the
people pretend that the soil returns twenty-fold.
The Adgee flows through the plain and close to
the village, which belongs to a daughter of Abbas
Meerza, and yields her a revenue of 300 tomauns.
The houses are of mud, and are all on the ground-
floor : in the interior, the walls have recesses, which
answer the purpose of open cupboards ; the roofs are
flat, formed of cross-beams and dried bushes cover
ed .with earth. Khodjeh possesses one large mosque
built of sun-dried bricks ; it has no minaret, and is
a heavy ugly building. Carpets are made here, as
in most of the hamlets in this part of Persia.
There are four villages on the plain ; Gogherjin,
Emitcheh, Armendeh, and Khodjeh : the two for
mer, belonging to some families of the Sheghau-
ghee, a wandering tribe, are left uninhabited when
they go to their summer pastures.
At half-past seven in the morning we left Khodjeh,
and, at first travelling a short distance in a north-east
erly direction, afterwards turned east, and continued
our route through numerous small plains, separated
by low rocky hills of the same formation and colour
ing as those already described. At distant intervals
patches of cultivation were to be seen, but in gene
ral the country presented a dreary and barren ap
pearance. We crossed several times the stream
which had yesterday spoiled our tea, and about one
o'clock came to the banks of a rivulet, the waters
of which were said to be fresh and good, whether

M H ftO I!

POSITION OF VILLAGES. 7
hot or cold, and dismounted for breakfast. .- A few
dried thistles and some dead grass afforded fuel;
and a fire was lighted, eggs boiled, and all the et
cetera prepared with wonderful celerity. It would
be difficult to find a better travelling servant than
a Persian : he is active, untiring, and excessively
ingenious, never seeming at a loss for anything.
After breakfast we recommenced our march, going
east, over some low hills more rounded and not so
craggy as those we had hitherto traversed. The
weather, though threatening, was cool ; and the rain
which had fallen during the night having laid the
dust, rendered travelling agreeable.
We now crossed another wide barren plain, and
entered a more cultivated district, where numerous
teams of oxen were busily employed in ploughing.
Until arriving at the village of the Shah-soowar
(king's horse-man), about eighteen miles from Khod
jeh, not a vestige of a habitation was visible ; and
it was a matter of no small astonishment from
whence the people came who were labouring in the
surrounding fields. The villages, however, were
concealed among the neighbouring valleys, and had
been built as far as possible from the high road,
in order to avoid many inconveniences, the chief of
which is the necessity of entertaining and lodging
travellers and government messengers, most gene
rally without any remuneration.
Shah-soowar, on the right of the road, belongs
to Nedjef Kooly Khan, lately governor of Khoi,
and most of the land we had traversed during the
last hour is cultivated by its inhabitants. Half

8 THE INHABITANTS.
a fursuck (two miles) further, we came to the vil
lage of Kuzi-Kapan, an insignificant place, contain
ing between thirty and forty houses. It belongs to
the Sheik-ul-Islam, at Tabreez, and pays yearly, in
money, forty tomauns besides, in kind, one-tenth of
its produce, which is considerable. From this part
of the country, Tabreez is supplied with wheat and
barley ; the corn grown in the immediate vicinity
of that city not being sufficient for its consumption.
Carpets and saddle-bags of carpetting are made at
Kuzi-Kapan. The houses are built of mud in the
manner already described, and, being of the same
colour as the earth on which they stand, look like
heaps of rubbish and ruins, and, instead of enliven
ing, rather increase the dreary and desolate aspect
•of the surrounding country. There is a small
stream supplying the inhabitants with excellent
water, and its banks planted with willow-trees form
the only refreshing feature of the landscape. I was
informed that the people owned about seven hun
dred head of sheep, and three hundred of oxen and
cows : on each ewe a tax of ten shahis (sixpence) is
levied, and on each cow a real of twenty-five shahis
(one shilling and threepence). The land usually
yields plentiful crops, but they had failed this year
on account of the drought.
The men were athletic, and apparently healthy :
the women were not very scrupulous about conceal
ing their faces ; but the few I saw had better have
remained covered — that, at least, would have left
room for imagination. The specimens exhibited,
however, showed nothing but the most unmitigated

VERMIN. 9
sun-burnt ugliness. Quantities of half-naked chil
dren were playing about, and seemed to regard me
with peculiar alarm.
From Kuzi-Kapan the Savalaun Mountain bears
exactly east : to the north, about two miles off, lies
the village of Djighere; and to the south, some
seven miles distant, in the plain below that of Zarf,
Kuzi-Kapan, being situated between the two on a
gentle slope.
All the villages in Persia have their Ket-khoda or
Ked-khoda, which literally means the lord or master
of the house, and is applied to the head of a village,
perhaps because his is generally considered the prin
cipal house : he is answerable for the revenues, and
is sometimes the collector of them ; and is referred
to, and acts as judge, in all cases of dispute between
the villagers.
When we arrived here, a house was in readiness
for our reception, as we had sent forward the Gho
laum for that purpose. We found, however, that
the room swarmed with fleas ; and, as we were then
quite strangers to this cheerful little insect, and by
no means wished to form an intimate acquaintance
with him, owing to certain narrow-minded preju
dices which greatly wore off as we gained expe
rience on our travels, we preferred an open shed in
front of the house ; and, having excluded the wind
and weather as much as possible with heavy cloths
and carpets, we slept tolerably well, though the rain
fell in torrents all night, and the air was rather too
cool to be pleasant.
The morning was cloudy, and, though it did not

10 MOUNTAINS OF KARADAUGH.
actually rain, yet appearances were so unfavourable,
that we prepared ourselves for a regular drenching
during our ride. While we were at breakfast, a fine
healthy-looking boy, about ten years old, brought us
a petition for a holiday, written, as he informed us,
by the schoolmaster himself. This appeared curious,
but the sequel was more so. The boys had asked
the Moollah for a holiday. " That 's all very well,"
said he, " but you must pay for it." The boys had
got no money, and their countenances fell. The old
gentleman, however, immediately relieved them from
their embarrassment, by writing the petition, and sug
gesting, that when presented to the Sahib Inglese,
the purchase money might also be solicited. About
a shilling was given to the child, and he went away
delighted. We left Kuzi-Kapan at a quarter to nine, and
proceeded in a north-easterly direction towards Kara-
daugh. The word means " black mountain ;" and
the province has been well named, for nothing can
possibly look more black and forbidding than its
mountains, chiefly owing to the sombre colouring of
the rocks and earth, which in some places have the
appearance of cinders ; and also to the dark bushes
of blackthorn, hawthorn, rose, and juniper, with
which their sides are covered.
As we ascended, we became enveloped in a thick
fog and drizzly rain, totally obscuring the scenery,
which, judging from the steep descents, the narrow
deep gullies we traversed, and the bare rocks start
ing in gigantic masses from the edge of the road,
must have been peculiarly wild.

AHAR. 11
After an hour's descent from the summit of the
pass, we got clear of the mist, and half an hour
more brought us to an old caravanserai at the foot
of the mountains. There was nothing picturesque in
this ruin, of which the walls and a few broken-down
cells alone remained, occasionally affording shelter
to wandering dervishes or other vagabonds. It stands
on the right of the road : on the left runs a small
rivulet, flowing from a cleft in the hills, and be
coming a considerable river as it approaches Ahar.
The roads we had hitherto travelled were gene
rally hard and level. Across the plains, and, in
deed, over some of the hills, it would not be difficult
to drive a carriage ; here they became more stony,
and sometimes passed through small patches of
marshy ground. We continued our course along a
broad and fertile valley, watered by the above-men
tioned stream, on the banks of which I observed
several water-mills.
After travelling twenty-five miles in continual
rain, we forded the river, here about twenty yards
broad, and, ascending a slight rise for half a mile,
arrived wet and tired at Ahar. The lodgings pre
pared by our Gholaum proved tolerably comfortable,
being the anderoon, or women's apartments, of a
house standing alone in a garden. The room we
occupied was in the form of a parallelogram, having
at one end a large window with a close wooden
grating: a tandour and very dirty frame over it
occupied the centre; and a swing, in which the
cradles of the children are placed, was suspended at
the other extremity. The walls were of mud,

12 AHAR.
furnished, as usual, with two rows of square recesses
edged with white plaster ; and the whole had very
much the appearance of a large brown-paper box
relieved with lines of white. The ceiling was com
posed of twelve cross-beams, supporting a kind of
lath-work of split willow-stems placed closely side
by side, upon which rested the bushes covered with
earth, forming the flat roof.
We dried our wet clothes, and then, finding the
weather a little clearer, sallied forth to see the
town. Ahar, the capital of Karadaugh, is situated in
a wide vale surrounded by lofty mountains, and is
encircled by a decayed mud wall, flanked by nume
rous round towers. It is the residence of the
governor of the province, Mahomed Rahim Meerza,
a brother of the Shah by another mother. By far
the greater part of the place is in ruins, and one
would scarcely suppose it to be the abode of a
prince, or a capital town ; but the fact is, that, as a
governor is seldom or never allowed to remain in
one post longer than two years, he has no interest
in the welfare of the people he governs, and makes
the most of the time to enrich himself at their
expense. Thus every wealthy man becomes a mark
for extortion ; and, consequently, whatever property
there may be is carefully concealed, and everything
is made to assume the aspect of poverty and
wretchedness : even the palace itself, as it is called,
is a miserable mud-house, only to be distinguished
from the ruins which surround it by a pointed tiled
roof. There is a small dirty bazar, but the trade

SEYEED KHAN. 13
is limited to the supply of the town and adjacent
villages. The city is said to contain 1500 families,
600 of which are taxed ; and to yield a revenue of a
thousand tomauns per annum. In addition to the
cultivation of wheat and barley, the gardens around
the town produce apples, pears, plums, cherries,
apricots, grapes, and several other fruits.
About twelve miles to the north of Ahar lie the
iron mines of Urghurt, formerly worked, under the
superintendence of Sir Henry Bethune, on account
of the Persian government ; but since given up by
him, from the difficulty he experienced in obtaining
re-payment of the money he had expended. The
ore is very rich and abundant ; and, though the
government is in want of iron, and is obliged to
purchase it from Russia, yet these mines are now
totally neglected, on account of the false economy
which withholds the advance of the money necessary
to conduct the enterprise, although the result has
been ascertained by experience to be certain. About
the same distance further north are situated the
copper mines, once conducted by Seyeed Khan.
I believe they are still worked, but for want of
funds and proper management the enterprise is
profitless, and the produce insignificant. This pro
vince abounds in very rich veins of metal, iron, tin,
and copper, which, under a better government, might
become a source of incalculable wealth.
Seyeed Khan was the son of a small Armenian
trader at Busheer, and was educated at a public
school at Bombay. On his return to Busheer he
engaged himself as a servant to Mr. Ellis, and

14 SEYEED KHAN.
afterwards to Colonel Monteith ; and, being an
intelligent man, and speaking English, was subse
quently employed by his Royal Highness Abbas
Meerza. He was at that time called Sadik Beg,
and went to England to open a trade, having a sort
of commission from the prince to act as his agent.
On his return he brought out a small stock of
merchandize, which remunerated him wonderfully ;
was made a Khan by Abbas Meerza, who likewise
invested him with the Order of the Lion and Sun,
and sent him back to England under the name
of Seyeed Khan, to execute some further commis
sions for his Royal Highness, as well as to advance
the interests of trade.
On his arrival at Constantinople he endeavoured
to supersede the Persian consul, assuming the title
of ambassador; but the Turkish government, finding
that he had no mission from the Shah, refused to
acknowledge his pretensions. He, however, went
on to England, still with the assumed title and rank
of Persian ambassador, living on the credulity and
generosity of the authorities of the countries through
which he passed, and finally reaching London penni
less. By his assumed character, a good and plausi
ble address, and on the strength of a fine beard,
and good shawls and clothes, he imposed on many
noble and influential persons, and was introduced
into the best society. He succeeded in persuading
a rich East Indian house of business to engage in
commercial speculations under his auspices, and to
purchase a ship expressly for the purpose, giving
her the name of " The Seyeed Khan ;" then, after

SEYEED KHAN. 15
investing a large sum in merchandize, incurring a
heavy debt to the above-mentioned house, and to
many others, he returned to Persia.
The enterprise did nqt answer the expectations of
his friends ; the returns were small, and too high-
priced to be profitable, chiefly from being obtained
on credit. Abbas Meerza, however, still continued
to him his favour, and made him a grant of the
mines in Karadaugh. Soon afterwards, the death
of his Royal Highness blasted the Khan's prospects,
and he found he could only retain his position by
large presents and bribery at the Court of the Shah.
The remainder of his adventure was dissipated by
these extraordinary demands, as well as by his own
extravagance ; and, when he died, he was a debtor
to English merchants of some 20,000^.
For a time his mines were productive, and he
furnished some guns to the Persian government.
Its berauts or orders, however, given to assist him
in working the mines, and which were to be repaid
by guns, were encashed at such a heavy discount,
that he only became more deeply involved ; and, on
dying of cholera at Tehraun in 1842, he left
immense debts in Persia. His corpse was buried
by night, lest the artillerymen, of whom he had
borrowed money at a high interest, should seize it,
and, by exposing it, oblige the Christians, through
shame, to pay a sum of money for permission to inter
it ; which money is, in such cases, applied to the
discharge of the debt.
Seyeed Khan was a man of a certain kind of
cleverness, great plausibility and address, and is not

16 TOMB OF SHAHAUB-U-DEEN.
an uncommon instance of the way in which Persians
with similar talents have often succeeded in raising
themselves from insignificance. In other character
istics he was a true Persian, vain and ostentatious ;
and these qualities his Mohamedan countrymen knew
how to turn to their own account : they spoiled him
of his money through flattery and feigned admiration,
and, when he had no longer the means of paying
them, they treated him with neglect and contempt.
His history forcibly reminds one of the tale of
Hadgee Baba; and, were his whole story told, it would
probably form a series of as amusing and varied
adventures, with the addition of their all having
really happened to one individual.
On the right hand on entering Ahar stands a con
spicuous ruin, the tomb of a certain Sheik, Shahaub-
u-deen (Star of Religion). I made many inquiries,
but no one seemed to know at what period the re
verend old gentleman flourished. It may, however,
probably have been during the fourteenth century, as
Tamerlane is reported to have added to the build
ing, erected by the Sheik himself, the two minarets
of blue lacquered tiles on each side of the middle
and principal arch. I should, however, doubt the
truth of the assertion, as Tamerlane was more likely
to have destroyed, than to have added to the struc
ture ; besides, I should hardly think it so ancient.
The facade has a lofty arched recess in the centre ;
and on either side are wings, having an upper story,
attaining to about two-thirds of the present height
of the minarets. On the left hand as you face the
building is another wing on the ground-floor, con-

TOMB OF SHAHAUB-U-DEEN. 17
taining an apartment now used as a mosque. The
whole face of the building was formerly covered with
characters and scrolls in lacquered tiles of blue and
yellow, of which very few now remain. The mina
rets are in tolerable preservation, except their sum
mits, which were apparently once crowned with
some kind of ornamental roof or spire, but they are
now level with the top of the wall of the main build
ing ; and at the base of both the pillars, at about
four feet from the ground, is a vacant space in the
tile-work which possibly may have contained a slab
for an inscription. In front of the building is an old
tank, built principally of marble ; but it is now dry,
and half filled up with pieces of masonry which have
fallen in from the sides. From the central arched
recess one passes through a low door into a lofty
square chamber, built of brick and surmounted by
a dome of the same material ; it is perfectly empty,
and is now the abode of sparrow-hawks and wild
pigeons, which enter through the holes and crevices
in the top. Another door in one corner of this
chamber leads into an open area surrounded by a
number of small cells, probably once appropriated
to visiters, or the apartments of the priests and at
tendants who formerly kept the place in order.
The court is so filled with graves, that the marble slabs
covering them have formed a complete pavement.
In the centre is a handsome screen or railing of stone
of a dark slate colour, beautifully chiselled in open
work, surrounding the tomb of the saint. This
screen would appear to have been erected in a hurry,
or left unfinished, as on one half of the small wicket

18 TOMB OF SHAHAUB-U-DEEN.
which gives access to the tomb the sculpture is
incomplete. There are no figures engraved, the
carving representing only scrolls of flowers and other
fanciful devices. Most of the grave-stones are in
scribed with Arabic characters. The lower part of
the outside walls of the building is composed of
single slabs of stone, some of a reddish purple, and
some of a grey tint, reaching four feet from the
ground; the remainder is of very excellent brick, and
of good workmanship.
We ascended the minarets by a worn and dilapi
dated spiral staircase, and should have obtained an
extensive view of the town and neighbouring moun
tains, but the weather still continued overcast, and
the magnificent Savalaun Dagh was enveloped in
clouds to its very base. I should think the shafts
of the minarets still standing were not less than a
hundred and thirty or a hundred and forty feet high.
The ruin is situated in what was formerly a bury
ing ground, but was converted into an orchard by the
present Shah before he came to the throne. At one
corner is a large gateway, through which passes a rill
of water flowing from the town along the top of an
embankment, and planted on either side with a row
of luxuriant willows. Over the gateway are some
open rooms ; the whole in a state of great dilapida
tion. In an arched window of the mausoleum we ob
served a quantity of reeds. We inquired what they
were, and were informed, that, if a person suffered
from pain or disease, he twined a reed with string or
rag, prayed over it, and consigned it to this holy

SUPERSTITION. 19
place, and the people gravely assured us that the
malady duly passed away. What peculiar efficacy
belonged to the reed or the string nobody pretended
to explain, but every one asserted the fact. This
superstition resembles the hanging up of rags or
offerings on the branches of trees near sacred spots ;
a custom common both in Turkey and Persia, and
many other countries, Ireland and Scotland not
excepted.

c 2

20

CHAPTER II.
Departure from Ahar.— Gheun-deughdee. — Kaleh-bashee — Game.
Arrival at Meezaum. — Shah-sevens. — Robbery. — Savalaun
Daugh  Mishkeen. — Arrival at Loree. — Dinner. — Our Cook.
— " Tweel." — Dismal Weather. — Leave Loree. — Soomaree. —
Ruined Castle. — Bad Quarters. — Vermin. — Departure from
Soomaree. — The Shah-seven Tribe. — Their numbers in Mish
keen — In Ardebeel. — Arrive at Ardebeel. — Uninhabitable
Lodgings. — Removal to better  The Vekeel. — Letters from
England. On the 8th November we resumed our journey.
The morning was overcast and chilly, but no rain
fell. At nine o'clock we left Ahar, keeping gene
rally in an easterly direction along the valley on
the left bank of the river, which we crossed after
about an hour's travelling ; and, continuing for some
distance on the right bank, passed the village of
Teveleh (stable), and, a little further, that of Tazeh-
kend (new village), both on the opposite side of the
stream. Between these two villages we fell in with
an encampment of about six tents of the Sheghau-
ghee tribe. Half a mile further on we passed
through the village of Shah-verdee-kishlaughee
(Shah-given winter residence), built on a small
eminence, one side of which forms a precipice over
hanging the river. These villages are not large;

GHEUN-DEUGHDEE. — KALEH-BASHEE. 21
Tazehkend, the most considerable, consisting of
about fifty houses.
Soon after quitting Shah-verdee-kishlaughee we
again crossed over to the left bank. At this point
the valley became narrower, varying from one to
three hundred yards ; and the hills, which had hither
to presented smooth and rounded summits, now ex
hibited a more rugged outline. The road wound
round their sides, which sometimes, nearly meeting
at the base, left only a narrow chasm for the stream,
here so confined as to become a foaming torrent.
Prettily situated among a few trees in a cleft
of the mountain on the right bank, is the village of
Gheun-deughdee, consisting of about twenty houses.
Alum is found in this neighbourhood. A short dis
tance further, on the same side of the river, is the
village of Kaleh-bashee (head castle), standing on
the edge of a lofty precipice, on which are to be
seen the embattled walls of an old fortress. Over
the stream below there has formerly been a bridge
of two arches, but nothing now remains save the
foundations, across which a few trunks of trees have
been placed for the convenience of foot-passengers.
Here we once more forded the stream, and after
travelling a few miles further along its right bank
quitted it altogether, ascending a hill covered with
dwarf oak, birch, a kind of prickly shrub something
resembling the acacia, and occasionally clumps of
the wild fig-tree. The climate had become sensibly
warmer ; and near the ruined bridge before men
tioned I perceived, for the first time, a little rice
cultivation.

22 GAME.
The bushes on the mountain were full of black
birds and thrushes ; and the change from the dreary
barren country through which we had passed, where
nothing like a bush was visible, was exceedingly
refreshing. We continued over these hills on a
beautiful smooth turf for about two miles, when we
happened to start a hare close to the road-side.
Being well mounted, and having a couple of grey
hounds with us, we gave chase, when to our sur
prise we found that almost every bush contained a
hare ; they started out in all directions, and, dodg
ing among the brushwood, completely puzzled the
dogs, who could not keep the same animal in view
for two seconds.
After a great deal of hallooing and scampering
about to no purpose-— every one calling the dogs to
the particular hare he had just started, and they
attending to no one, but enjoying a little hunting
for their own individual amusement — we thought
our fire-arms were likely to do more execution, and
therefore dismounted; several of our attendants
who had guns following the example.
I had not proceeded many yards before I put
up a hare, which I shot, and the report of my gun
raised an immense covey of partridges. Meanwhile
a very brisk fire commenced on all sides, and even
pistols were discharged at the astonished animals.
The scene was very animating ; and the servants,
hallooing and rushing hither and thither, seemed to
have gone mad. I found the Gholaum in a thicket
literally filled with hares, blazing away at them sit
ting, without the least effect on his part, and with as

ARRIVAL AT MEEZAUM. 23
little apparent fear on theirs. This man was a
great sportsman in a small way ; and on the road if
the report of a gun was heard, it was sure to be
Mohamed Rahim Beg shooting at a crow. The
Meerza, with his mouth wide open in amazement at
the uproar, seemed to think it just possible that an
odd shot might come his way ; and to add to his
comfort, being no sportsman, he was left in charge
of about seven horses, which occasionally exhibited
symptoms of pugnacity, and nearly pulled his arms
off. Unfortunately we had some distance to go, and it
was getting late ; so, in about a quarter of an hour
we mounted, and hastened to the village of Meez-
aum, where we had determined to put up for the
night. The abundance of hares was quite incon
ceivable, and we likewise raised some immense
coveys of partridges ; these, however, were very wild.
Notwithstanding the abundance of hares, we only
bagged four, for the bushes were too close to give us
a fair chance, and we were distracted by the num
bers : our attendants shot nothing.
The day had been cloudy, and threatening rain ;
the evening was cold and foggy, and the sun had
long set ere we reached Meezaum. The inhabit
ants vacated for us a most filthy hut, the best, how
ever, the place afforded ; and we endeavoured to
make ourselves as comfortable as circumstances
would permit. During the operation of removing
the furniture we were sitting outside, surrounded by
the people of the place, staring at us open-mouth
ed. I had ample time to observe their physiogno-

24 DEPARTURE FROM MEEZAUM.
mies, and I think I never before beheld such unparal
leled ugliness ; some of them were hardly human —
one man's forehead being about an inch high, and
his chin three or four inches long ; there were noses
of every shape imaginable, and no one had two eyes
looking the same way. Two or three old women
were peering over a wall, and their hideous and
wrinkled features were perfectly astonishing.
This village is about twenty-two miles distant
from Ahar: it is mostly in ruins, and appears a
miserable place. We passed a sleepless night, but
felt thankful that we were not entirely devoured by
the vermin with which our room swarmed.
On the 9th we left Meezaum, at about a quarter
to nine, in a thick fog, and proceeded in an easterly
direction, over the same smooth undulating country
as the day previous. We soon started a hare, which,
however, threw out the dogs after a long chase:
these animals were still in immense quantities, but
we could not afford time to stop.
Continuing onwards, we came to the village of
Yeyjah ; about a mile further, to Auteshghir ; and
successively to Mazreh-jehan, Munjuckee, Haba-
shee, Kassabah, and Meer-kendee. The soil over
which we had travelled appeared rich, and was ex
tensively cultivated with rice, barley, and wheat;
numberless villages were scattered about on every
side, but those above mentioned lie close to the road.
We passed several encampments of the Shah-seven
tribe, surrounded with large herds of cattle grazing.
The villagers are obliged to be constantly on their
guard against these people : only a few nights be-

ROBBERY. — SAVALAUN DATJGH. — MISHKEEN. 25
fore our arrival at Meezaum, the stable we occupied
had been broken into by a party, with the inten
tion of carrying off the horses ; but not being able
to make the hole, which was in one of the back-
walls, large enough, they decamped, not, however,
without taking some other property.
After having waited about a quarter of an hour
at Meer-kendee for a guide, we crossed an undulat
ing plain, the Savalaun Daugh being close on our
right. The weather, which was dark and lowering,
cleared a little, and gave us a momentary peep at
the snow-clad summit of this magnificent moun
tain, but the mist rolling on immediately covered it
again to its very base. The country here became
stony and apparently barren, but the whole plain
was thickly studded with villages. Close to the
road were Khorramoo, Baughtuppeh, Deear, Nest-
arabad, Bazil, Looeran, and Bijeh ; the two latter
belonging to the Shah-seven tribe. All these are
small : I should think the largest could not boast
of more than a hundred houses, and the generality
from twenty to thirty. The district of Mishkeen,
through which we were now passing, is one of the
most populous in Persia, and is famous for the ex
cellent rice it produces. We crossed many rivu
lets, all flowing in a north-westerly direction, and
several dry beds of torrents, which, to judge from
their appearance, must be large in the spring.
From Bijeh we made a gradual ascent over a tract
of rough, stony desert for about six miles, till we
reached the village of Loree, distant thirty-two
miles from Meezaum. Loree stands embayed be-

26 DINNER. — OUR COOK.
tween two points of the high-land, which here
abruptly descends many hundred feet into an exten
sive plain, covered with gardens and villages.
As our luggage had taken a different road, we
were rather anxious about it, lest it should miss the
place ; in the course of an hour, however, it came in,
and, our beds being spread, we 4;hrew ourselves down
and waited for dinner. Dinner ! — ah ! what a tran
quillizing effect on the spirits of a hungry and tired
man has the rattling of knives and forks ! — he has
hitherto grumbled at his quarters — this disgusts by
its dilapidated condition, and that promises nothing
but discomfort — he feels convinced he shall pass a
sleepless night, because he has a suspicion of vermin :
— but he no sooner hears the clank of the dishes than
his brow relaxes, his voice becomes more soft, his
eye more benignant — things begin to wear a dif
ferent aspect — the place appears more comfortable
than he at first supposed it, and, finally, all recollec
tion of other miseries is absorbed in the fumes of
roast fowl. It is always roast fowl when travelling
in Persia, and excellent birds they are both in size
and flavour ; though, after eating them incessantly
for three months, one begins to undervalue these
qualities. While on this subject, I may say a few words in
admiration of our cook, Ismael. He is a tall man,
with a droll expression of countenance, and a great
wit in his own way, always in a good temper, and
very useful and active on the road in getting the
muleteers forward. But his chief talent consists in
making a dinner out of nothing, metaphorically

" TWEEL." — DISMAL WEATHER. 27
speaking — literally out of two or three live fowls.
On arriving at our halting-places, he straightway
lights a fire, pronounces the proper prayer, and cuts
the fowls' throats in the direction of Mecca, that
their souls may go direct to Paradise, and in less
than two hours produces some four or five different
dishes, having for their foundation these said birds.
There are, however, a great many assistants in the
inscrutable pockets of his wide trowsers, such as
curry-powder, spices, dried plums, and many other
similar dainties which the Persians mix with their
dishes. No one but a Persian could manage as he
does ; sometimes on the road, when one would be
at a loss to conceive how a fire could be kindled,
he will prepare tea in marvellously quick time ; and
never, in the most miserable places, has he failed to
give us a good dinner, and always with some varia
tion. Loree and two or three other villages in its vici
nity are held in " tweel" by a Manuchar Khan, who
resides at Tabreez. It is customary in Persia to
give a government employe" one or more villages, out
of the revenue of which he takes his salary ; this is
called holding it in " tweel." Loree pays annually
seven hundred tomauns. It is said to contain five
hundred houses, and is a Kassabah, which means a
place with a bazar, not of sufficient importance to
be called a town, but yet superior to a village.
On the morning of the 10th, as usual, a drizzly
rain fell ; and the masses of heavy black clouds,
sweeping along the plain and enveloping the sur
rounding hills, promised a most disagreeable ride :

28 SOOMAREE.
in fact, since leaving Tabreez we had literally not
seen the sun, the same dismal weather continuing
day after day.
We left Loree at half-past nine o'clock, and
passing through its gardens descended into the plain,
and struck across a stony country in an easterly
direction, till we had passed the village of Meerali,
a little to the left of the road, and, a mile further
on, that of Ergheh ; hence we went more northerly
over a better cultivated tract, and ascended a spur
of the Savalaun. It was exceedingly steep and
rocky, and, to add to the misery of both horses and
riders, the rain began to descend in torrents. For
two hours the road lay over these hills, it then
became more passable, and turning off a little to
the right we entered the village of Soomaree. The
time was about four o'clock in the afternoon, and
we had been six hours and a half riding a distance
of twenty miles, on account of the difficulty of the
road. During the course of the day we had met
with many Shah-sevens migrating to their winter
quarters, and also many of their tents still pitched.
Soomaree is a small village situated on the top
of a hill. It was once flourishing, until about
seven years ago, when it was visited by plague,
which destroyed nearly all the inhabitants. It pays
a revenue of two hundred tomauns to government.
Pears, apples, grapes, and melons are produced in
the gardens ; and carpets are manufactured here, as
in nearly all the villages through which we had
passed. We saw one of a pretty pattern and good
quality, measuring eighteen feet by three feet nine

BAD QUARTERS. 29
inches, for which only three tomauns (thirty shil
lings) were demanded.
On an eminence above the village stand the ruins
of an old castle, which had not been inhabited
within the recollection of the natives, who were also
ignorant of its history. The houses here are built
as usual of mud, but the foundations appeared to
be partly of stone.
On arriving, wet and cold, we were shown into a
most wretched hovel : the roof was pierced with
holes, and the rain trickled through in every direc
tion, rendering it quite uninhabitable. The people,
however, solemnly assured us that all the houses
were in the same condition. This was consolatory,
inasmuch as we were no worse off than others ; but,
as it by no means improved our situation, we sent
our Gholaum to find . a more habitable dwelling if
possible. In about half an hour he returned with
the joyful intelligence that he had at last secured
a good house, and thither we removed. Though
very small, it was at least water-tight, of which
advantage hardly another house in the village could
boast. Here, then, we established ourselves, and
having with some difficulty procured wood for a fire,
we dried our clothes, and after a comfortable din
ner hoped to forget the discomforts of the day in
the visions of the night : but no — after all the com
plicated miseries of wind, water, and cold,— after
all the fatigues of rocky passes, and a long day's
journey, we were subjected to a most awful infliction
of fleas. We suffered in patience for a long time,
but there is a point beyond which no patience will

30 DEPARTURE FROM SOOMAREE.
extend ; so, lighting candles again, we commenced an
attack on the invaders with an ability and enthu
siasm only to be acquired by long practice and a
thirst for vengeance; but, though thousands fell,
thousands still came on with unabated vigour, and my
friend declared he could see them charging in heavy
squadrons over the carpet. This alarming discovery
put an end to the battle ; we fairly gave in, and, I
need scarcely add, did not close our eyes during the
remainder of the night.
The first person I saw in the morning on going
out of the house was our Meerza, looking the picture
of misery. He shook his head mournfully and ex
claimed, " Ah, Sahib ! Sahib ! this menzil is very
bad, it has many fleas ; I have not slept." I could
not forbear a smile at his woe-begone expression of
countenance, and felt a kind of selfish consolation
that we had not suffered alone. The quantity of
vermin, however, must have been very unusual to
have caused him any uneasiness.
We left Soomaree at a quarter to ten in a heavy
snow-storm, which soon turned to mist and rain ;
and, passing over some low hills, entered the plain
of Ardebeel. I could see very little of the sur
rounding country, but it appeared well cultivated ;
and here and there, through the fog and rain,
peeped forth a village. We passed many tents
belonging to the Shah-sevens; and I may here take
the opportunity of saying a few words regarding
this powerful tribe, as it is the last time I shall
have occasion to mention them.
Their name is of Turkish derivation, from

THE SHAH-SEVEN TRIBE. 31
" shah" a king, and " sevmek," to love, implying devo
tion to their sovereign. Their families form, during
the summer, the majority of the inhabitants of
Mishkeen and Ardebeel. They are Eeliauts (wan
derers) and dwell in tents, which are constructed in
the following manner. Some ten or fifteen long
curved poles are planted in the ground in a wide
circle, their superior extremities fitting into as many
holes in a circular hoop, the diameter of which may
be about two and a-half feet; thus forming the frame
of a dome with an opening in the centre. The
lower part of the frame, to a height of about four
feet from the ground, is hung round with reeds,
tied together with string ; and over the whole are
laid heavy nummuds or felts, making a very warm
and comfortable, though rather a limited dwelling.
The opening at the top serves to let out the smoke,
and can be closed at pleasure to exclude the rain,
or keep in the warmth when the fire is burnt to
ashes ; at night, when shut, the tent is quite im
pervious to cold. These people do not cultivate
the soil, but own large droves of cattle and numerous
flocks of sheep, in which the wealth of the tribe
consists. The men are stout, healthy-looking fel
lows, and the women, when young, are sometimes
pretty ; but their beauty is evanescent, for they soon
become shrivelled, and of a reddish brick-dust colour.
They possess the usual thievish propensities of the
wandering tribes. In winter, just at the present
season, they retire to their Kishlauks (winter
quarters) on the plains of Mogaun, and remain
there until the warm weather brings forth those

32 THE SHAH-SEVENS IN MISHKEEN.
deadly serpents, which in days of yore stopped the
march of Pompey's army, and which still render
these plains uninhabitable during the hot season.
In Mishkeen there are about seven thousand
families of the Shah-sevens, subdivided into nine
or ten clans : the revenue paid by this division
amounts to 4,000 tomauns, which, with as much
more as can be extracted by artifice or force, is
collected by their chiefs, Mohamed Khan and his
cousin Cossim Khan. Only the above-mentioned
sum, however, is claimed by government ; any sur
plus being kept by the chiefs. In this district the
tribe does, not possess more than two or three
villages. In Ardebeel there are about five thousand
families, divided into nine or ten clans, many of
which have smaller subdivisions. In this province
they hold several villages, which they sublet at a
profit to the peasantry of the country. The revenue
paid by the tribe to the Shah for these villages,
and which is called Djedeed, amounts to...Tns. 1,000
and that derived from a fixed tax on
each tent to  2,500

Tomauns 3,500
so that the Shah-sevens in Mishkeen and Arde
beel pay in taxes a total of about 7,500 to
mauns. During the course of our ride to-day, I stopped to
examine one of the tents I have already described.
Some women who were inside saw my curiosity, and
laughing showed me the interior, asking if I thought

UNINHABITABLE LODGINGS. 33
it " yakshee" (good). The furniture was composed
of various boxes, bags, and carpets. Several half-
naked little urchins were playing around the fire,
which was of wood and dried cow-dung, and burnt
in a small hole in the centre of the tent, the smoke
ascending through the aperture in the roof.
After a short but unpleasant ride of twelve miles,
we entered Ardebeel. Almost wet through, we made
the best of our way along the dirty streets to the
lodgings, which we hoped to have found prepared by
the Gholaum, who had preceded us by some hours ;
but were highly disgusted on being shown into a
place which had neither window-frames nor doors,
was in a more than half-ruinous condition, and in the
present state of the weather positively uninhabitable.
We exclaimed loudly against this treatment, having
sent forward letters of recommendation from Bah
man Meerza to the Governor, Meer Khaushim Khan,
whom, however, on inquiry we found to be absent ;
but were informed that his Vekeel, or representative,
was a Meerza Aboonoollah. To him, therefore, a
message was sent, saying, that if better accommo
dations were not immediately procured, we should
quit the town and write to the Shahzadeh (King's
son), informing him of the nature of our reception.
This produced an ugly, hard-featured man, dressed
as if returned from a ride : he said he had been
out eight miles to meet us, but had taken a different
road ; that the Vekeel was sorry we had not given
him a longer notice, as things would then have been
better arranged ; that he would endeavour to find us
a more habitable lodging, but, by our heads, he, the
D

34 THE VEKEEL.
ugly man, did not suppose that out of fifty houses in
Ardebeel one was to be found better than that in
which we stood. This was a place where nobody
lived, called a Maimoon Khoneh (guest-house), and
appropriated to any traveller whatever who might
happen to want a night's lodging. The hard-fea
tured man then departed, and for the space of half
an hour afterwards we paced the room in our wet
clothes, becoming more and more irritated as the
time lengthened. At the expiration of this period
there was a stir outside, and a little fat jolly-looking
man in a violent perspiration waddled in. This was
the Vekeel's Vekeel : — he paid us a variety of com
pliments on the part of his superior — turned up his
nose in disgust at the place — stuck his cap on one
side, and, Inshallah (please God) hoped that some
thing more fit for gentlemen might be found — this
was not fit for our dogs: he had "pulled much
shame," and, although he could not say how, he felt
convinced all was a mistake ; and finally requested
that one of our servants might be sent to ascertain
if the house he had now provided was a suitable
one. A man was despatched, who returned shortly
afterwards, reporting that it was "chok yakshee"
(very good) ; and thither we adjourned.
On our arrival all was confusion and noise, loud
above which were to be heard the shrill vocifera
tions of the female part of the inhabitants in all the
excitement of removal. We were conducted up a
steep and ill-constructed staircase, — no worse, how
ever, than those generally met with in Persian
houses,— to a small, white-plastered room, twelve feet

THE VEKEEL. 35
by eight, and about nine feet high, having a stained
glass window at one end, and a small fire-place.
Our carpets being spread and a fire lighted, we
took off some of our wet clothes, and let the re
mainder dry on us ; then, ordering tea, requested
the little fat man to be seated, and entered into a
lively conversation, which was cut short by the ar
rival of the Vekeel, Meerza Aboonoollah. He was
a handsome-looking man, about forty years of age,
very polite, and made many apologies for the trouble
and inconvenience we had experienced ; he said,
that he had not been properly informed who we
were, and that our man seemed perfectly satisfied
with the place originally appointed ; and, indeed, it
appeared to have been chiefly the fault of our most
stupid Gholaum, who nearly always failed to procure
us a decent lodging. After the usual routine of
kaleoons (water pipe) and tea, he departed, and we
were left to ourselves to make our arrangements.
Half an hour afterwards a foot messenger pre
sented himself, with letters from England and our
friends at Erzeroom and Tabreez, which afforded
us ample amusement during the remainder of the
evening.

D 2

36

CHAPTER III.
Visit to the Vekeel. — Tombs of the Sheik Suffee-u-deen and Shah
Ismael. — The Fortress. — Turkish and Persian Manners. — Pri
soners in the Fort.' — Legend. — Description of Ardebeel. — De
parture. — Pintailed Grouse. — Arrive at Nemeen  A Princess.
—Description of Nemeen  Departure. — Shinghian Kaleh. —
Descend the Mountains. — Tent-dwelling Tribes. — Bad Road. —
Scenery. — Kishveh. — Night-fall. — Reach Astara.
On Monday, the 13th of November, the weather
having cleared considerably, and promising a fine
day, we went after breakfast to pay a visit to Meerza
Aboonoollah. He received us very civilly in his
divan-khoneh, or hall of audience, and, supposing
that we were not accustomed to the Persian manner
of sitting, had had the politeness to order chairs to
be placed for us. The apartment was in the form of
a parallelogram, one of the long sides of which was
occupied by a large latticed window of stained glass,
which could be thrown open at pleasure. The walls
were of plain white plaster, without decoration ; and
the floor was covered with matting, over which were
placed some coarse carpets.
After a little general conversation we took leave,
and proceeded to visit the tombs of the Sheik
Suffee-u-deen, and of his descendant Shah Ismael,
the founder of the Suffavean dynasty.

TOMB OF THE SHEIK SUFFEE-U-DEEN. 37
We entered a long narrow court, by a ruined
gateway, once covered with beautiful lacquered tiles,
some of which remained in patches on the wall, still
retaining their brilliant colouring. Passing through
this court, we entered a smaller one, having on each
side, in three deep recesses, the tombs of some an
cient worthies, whose names died with them, or, at
all events, are lost to the present generation. These
recesses had also been decorated in the same manner
as the gateway. Thence we proceeded into another
court-yard, in the shape of a parallelogram, lying at
right angles to the two already described. This was
filled with graves ; among which, conspicuous by a
white marble slab, was pointed out to us that of
Shah IsmaePs wife.
On the left-hand side of this court is a door lead
ing into a large, circular brick building, once per
haps a mosque, the walls alone of which are now
standing, the roof having probably fallen in. To the
right of the court is a dead wall, exhibiting remains
of the same lacquered tile-work before mentioned ;
and opposite is the anti-chamber to the principal
tombs, entered by a door in the left-hand corner. It
is a long lofty apartment, and has once been beauti
fully ornamented : from the ceiling hang a quantity
of small lamps, said to be either of gold or silver,
but so covered with cobwebs and dust that it is im
possible to distinguish anything more than the mere
shape. On the floor were the faded remains of what was
once a very splendid carpet, the manufacture of
which very much surpassed that of the present day.

38 TOMBS OF THE SHEIK SUFFEE-U-DEEN
At one extremity was woven the date of its make,
some three hundred years ago.
In the right-hand wall are four or five windows,
having small panes of glass set in metal frames, but
all so dusty and dirty that little light finds its way
through them.
Along the centre, of the apartment on the floor
were several old candlesticks with branches, and
here and there wooden stools, on which lay copies of
the Koran.
To the left is a door leading into a large domed
chamber, containing the china which belonged to
Shah Ismael, or, as some said, to the Sheik, consist
ing principally of large dishes, vases, drinking-cups,
and flagons, spread out on the floor ; the numerous
recesses in the walls, originally intended for their
reception, being left empty. The walls and niches
were beautifully gilt and painted. In this apart
ment a coffin was deposited, waiting until a con
veyance offered for Kerbela ; as it was believed that
the superior sanctity of the place would greatly fa
cilitate the passage of the departed spirit on its way
to Paradise.
Leaving this chamber, we proceeded to the tomb
of the Sheik, situated at the end of the anti-cham
ber, and separated from it by two rows of railings,
about eight feet and a-half high, and six yards apart,
the one of silver, and the other of gold.
The tomb is a small, but lofty circular chamber;
lined with old and faded velvets, and surmounted by
a dome, from which depend several lamps of gold
and silver. In the centre of the apartment repose

AND SHAH ISMAEL. 39
the remains of the Sheik, enclosed in a case of dark-
coloured wood, having at each corner a large gold
knob, roughly set with rubies, emeralds, and other
stones. The whole was carefully covered with seve
ral cloths, overlaid with a coating of dust, which ap
peared the accumulation of a century.
On the top of the case were some dilapidated
representations of flowers and fruits, but it was not
until this had been explained to us that we were at
all conscious of their being so intended ; and more
over, the room, only lighted by a small and ex
cessively dirty window, was so obscure that objects
could with difficulty be distinguished. On one side
of the Sheik's remains was the coffin of Sultan Hyder,
fifth in descent from him, and the father of Shah
Ismael ; and, on the other, those of two more of his
family. Returning from this tomb, on the right, between
the gold and silver railings, we entered another small
domed sepulchral chamber, adorned with lacquered
tiles, and much better lighted than that just de
scribed. It contains the remains of Shah Ismael,
enclosed in a large wooden case, said to have been
brought from India ; the workmanship of which was
perfectly beautiful, being elaborately inlaid with gold,
ivory, and various enamels, and carved all over in
the most minute manner. In the wall was a square
slab of some black substance, exhibiting an absurd
print of a hand about four times the size of an
ordinary one, but which the natives firmly believe to
be the impression of Shah Ismael's.
We wished very much to have seen the library,

40 THE FORTRESS.
but the keeper of the key was not to be found.
About one hundred and sixty books were taken
away by the Russians in 1828, all they found in the
mausoleum; but there were others in the posses
sion of various inhabitants of Ardebeel, which thus
escaped the hands of the plunderers, and have since
been restored to the library. The Emperor is said
to have sent eight hundred ducats to assist in re
pairing the shrine, as an indemnification for the
pillage. The exterior presents three or four domes, but is
neither striking nor picturesque.
A strange feeling of awe creeps over one on
visiting these silent chambers of the dead : the dim
light, the faded decorations, and the air of a de
parted grandeur, awaken melancholy and serious
reflections ; and the unbroken stillness of the place,
the dust and cobwebs, give the idea that one is
profanely intruding on a hallowed spot, where the
sound of man's voice, and the echo of his footsteps,
have ceased to be heard for ages.
We next went to visit the fortress, a small place
about an hundred and eighty yards square, built
of mud, with ditch, drawbridge, and glacis, in the
European style, under the superintendence of British
officers in the service of Abbas Meerza. It is at
present garrisoned by fifty artillerymen ; and there
are eight guns, — two 31b, one 91b, two mortars and
three howitzers : they are not, however, mounted
on the walls.
We paid a visit to Meerza Mustafa, the ex-
Governor of Ardebeel, who resides in the fort ; and

PRISONERS IN THE FORT. 41
found him seated in a small apartment, surrounded
with papers and apparently very busy. He is a tall,
good-looking man, and received us with much polite
ness. Since my arrival in this country, the difference
in the manners of the Turk and Persian has re
peatedly struck me. Almost every Persian is a
perfect gentleman, has an agreeable and engaging
address, and possesses the art of making one feel
quite at ease. The Turk generally appears engrossed
in himself and his pipe, and altogether wants that
liveliness and affability for which the Persian is
eminently distinguished. I must not, however,
be supposed to infer that the rule is not without
many exceptions on both sides. On leaving Meerza
Mustafa, we were joined by the Topchee Bashee
(commandant of artillery), who conducted us to the
Top Khoneh (arsenal), and showed us the eight guns
already mentioned. On the right of the door inside
were five miserable Jellallee Koords chained to
gether by the neck ; these poor wretches had been
there some two years or more, and were in a most
emaciated and filthy condition. We learned that
they had not been taken in the actual commission
of any crime, but had been seized on suspicion on
the frontier. As we entered, one of them, an old
man with a long grey beard and sunken eyes, began
to address us, but was immediately cut short by a
most significant look from the old Topchee Bashee.
It rained hard during the night, but the morning
turned out fine, and we prepared to resume our
journey. A tradition exists that this part of the country

42 DESCRIPTION OF ARDEBEEL.
was formerly a lake, and that Solomon commanded
two deeves or genii, named Ard and Beel, to turn
off the water into the Caspian, which they effected
by cutting a passage through the mountains ; and a
city, erected in the newly formed plain, was named
after them Ard-u-beel.
In outward appearance it differs in no respects
from most of the large villages of Upper Persia.
I expected to see a superior place, as it is denomi
nated a city, and is the capital of a jjrovince. It
contains about three thousand houses, built in the
usual way, of mud, or mud bricks, with flat roofs.
The bazars are neither extensive, nor anyway
striking in their appearance, and I only observed
one good caravanserai ; there may be more, but the
shortness of our stay prevented my seeing much of
the town. There are no buildings of any interest,
except the tombs and the fortress already alluded
to. On the south-east side of the town, however,
on a small mound is a ruin, which our guide told us
was formerly the principal mosque of the place;
but we had no time to inspect it, and were not
aware of its existence until we saw it as we left
Ardebeel. The revenue of the town formerly amounted to
Tmns. 14,000 per annum ; but the Shah has lately re
mitted Tmns. 3000, and at present it is as follows : —
Taxes on cattle . . Tmns. 4000
„ on shops and trade . . 4000
„ from the customs . . 3000

Tmns. 11,000*
* About 5,5001. sterling.

DESCRIPTION OF ARDEBEEL. 43
The trade of Ardebeel is principally with Russia,
through the port of Astara.
The imports from thence consist chiefly of iron,
steel, paper, and earthenware ; and hardware, usually
packed in painted boxes, which likewise form an
article of trade.
The imports from the interior of Persia are mostly
in transit for Russia, and amount, during the year,
to about 3000 horse-loads of galls, dried fruits,
Persian manufactures, and some native cotton twist
from Hamadan.
Almost all goods from Russia come by way of
Astara, and we were here informed that the duty
was paid, and most of the accounts kept there ; but
subsequently, on arriving at Astara, we were told
that this was not the case, and that every thing was
settled at Ardebeel : so difficult is it to obtain
correct information. Since the communication by
way of Astara has been established, the amount
of imports through Enzellee has considerably
diminished. The population of the province of Ardebeel is
said now to be classed as follows : —
3000 of the town
1000 „ villages
5000 „ Shah-sevens

9000 families.
The plain of Ardebeel is situated high, and the
fruits common to the warmer parts of Persia are
not produced here ; although apples, pears, and
cherries are in abundance. The climate is cold and

44 DEPARTURE. — ARRIVAL AT NAMEEN.
healthy. The Savalaun Daugh bears north-west of
the town, and is a magnificent mountain.
We left Ardebeel at ten o'clock, and immediately
outside the town, crossing the small river Balooklee
(fishy), took a north-easterly direction across the
plain. Many villages are scattered about, among
which Erghoer, Boglaun, Kerlaun, Kourtabad, Aug-
boulaugh, and Zeeranah lay nearest the road. During
the first hour's march, as far as the village of Aug-
boulaugh, the plain was well cultivated; on the
other side it appeared more sandy and barren, but
numerous flocks of sheep and cattle were grazing
on the scanty herbage. Four miles further we
forded the Karasoo, which divides Ardebeel from
Taulish. It was rather swollen by the late rains,
but the depth was not more than three and a-half
feet in the middle, and the width about sixteen
yards. Here we saw several large flocks of the piu-
tailed grouse, and, dismounting, we shot three or
four of them ; they are very beautiful birds, and
common to most of the plains of Upper Persia.
We then passed the villages of Dghighere, Kendee,
and Soulaugh ; and, turning north over a low hill,
approached Nemeen, and were met at a short dis
tance from it by a party of the inhabitants, who led
the way to the lodgings which had been assigned
us. This village is about eleven miles distant from
Ardebeel; it belongs to Meer Caussim Khan, a
Taulish chief, and is the residence of his wife,
a Princess, sister to Mahomed Rahim Meerza,
Governor of Karadaugh. She was very polite to us,
insisted on making us her guests, and would not

DESCRIPTION OF NEMEEN. 45
allow us to pay for anything, sending us tea on our
arrival, and a very good dinner in the evening.
We subsequently heard several stories of this lady;
and, among* others, that on her marriage she treated
her husband with great hauteur, and kept him at a
respectful distance for eight days. The first evening
she sent for him, and, making him stand near the
door, the following conversation ensued : " You are
welcome, Meer Caussim Khan ; how is your health,
is your brain JaP?" a*±- Y^ ^r^L'1"" Sc^<
~ "By the condescension of the Shahzadeh it is
^fajj ; how is her health ?"
" Good, thank God ! you are dismissed."
The second and third evenings were repetitions of
the first ; on the fourth she requested him to come
a little nearer, that she might see what manner of
man he was, and, having expressed some slight
satisfaction, again dismissed him. The next two
days she treated him with still more condescension,
and then their wedded life fairly commenced.
Persian women think, that, the longer they refuse
to receive their lords, the greater the consideration
they are entitled to ; and, among the higher ranks,
their freaks are sometimes carried to a most extra
ordinary length.
Nemeen is a very pretty village, situated in a
small valley at the foot of the mountains which
divide the upper country from the lowlands of
Taulish. The houses are in good repair and neatly
built ; and a clear stream, the banks of which are
planted with willows, poplars, and some fruit-trees,
flows past the eastern side. This village contains

46 DEPARTURE.
about two hundred houses, and yields an hundred
and fifty tomauns' revenue. There are besides
several others in the vicinity belonging to Meer
Caussim Khan, from which, altogether, *he obtains
about one thousand tomauns.
Our lodgings were in a small apartment of the
palace, as it was called, and proved very comfort
able, except that, as usual, we were annoyed by
vermin. The following morning, after having breakfasted
on various dishes sent by our hostess, we mounted
our horses and departed, regretting that we had no
means of showing our sense of the kindness with
which we had been received, not having expected
to be entertained by Princesses in small out-of-the-
way villages.
Our road lay in an easterly direction across some
fine grassy hills, and we were accompanied by a
very gay party of horsemen, who were exhibiting
their prowess, scampering about in every direction ;
and a lovely morning and bright sun added con
siderably to the cheerfulness of the scene. Among
the hills we saw several large bustards.
After travelling about two miles, we dismissed
our escort, and entered the forest ; which, although
the leaves had fallen, and icicles hung from the
branches, was a very agreeable change from the
dreary plains we had quitted, where not a bush
broke the monotony of the scene. The trees were
principally stunted oak, hawthorn, wild apple, and
beech. Two miles of ascent by a narrow muddy path

DESCEND THE MOUNTAINS. 47
brought us to the summit of the mountains, from
whence a beautiful and new scene presented itself.
On the left, before us, rose a steep hill covered with
dense forest to within an hundred feet of the top,
which terminated in a flat mass of grey rock, called
Shinghian Kaleh. As the name implies, a castle
formerly crowned the height, and a more appropriate
situation for the stronghold of an highland chief
could not be conceived. Nothing now remains but
a few heaps of stones, and a part of one or two
walls, but none of the ruins were visible from where
we stood. On either side, as far as the eye could
reach, lay ranges of mountains clothed in forest, and
terminating in rugged snow-capped peaks, their
bases being lost in masses of white clouds, which
totally concealed the view of the Caspian and the
lowlands. From this point we began a steep descent, along
a track in some places nearly obliterated by the
quantity of fallen leaves, and in others formed of
ridges, between which were pools of mud and water,
made by the continual even tread of baggage-cattle
following each other in long strings. It was very
painful to our horses, which were continually stumb
ling and slipping, and straining themselves by
violent efforts to recover their footing. We con
tinued on a similar track for many miles, and had
left our baggage far in the rear, as the loaded
horses could only advance slowly down the toilsome
declivity, when our guide lost the way, which was
peculiarly annoying, as the day was far advanced,
and Astara, our halting-place, still distant.

48 TENT-DWELLING TRIBES.
After wandering about for some time, vainly
endeavouring to find the road, we came upon three
tents belonging to the Dereh-ilee tribe. They were
of the simplest possible construction, merely the
boughs of trees stuck into the ground, with their
tops bent so as to meet, forming an arch, and
covered with a thick dark-coloured felt. The men
were absent in the woods, but we found two or
three women and children ; one of the former, an
old woman of about sixty, was the ugliest specimen
of humanity I think I ever beheld. The others
were much younger, and, though not pretty, pos
sessed rather a pleasing expression of countenance.
They conducted us into the road, and we again
resumed our journey. We were now, as far as
I could judge, about half-way down the descent;
and, at this height above the sea, the leaves were
still on the trees, though yellow and beginning to
fall. The forest contained a few oaks, but chiefly
beech and sycamore, with a scanty underwood of
medlar, apple-trees, and stunted holly-bushes ; on
the former I found some fruit, though not yet
arrived at perfection. Here and there the wood was
cleared in small patches for cultivation. We passed
several tents of the Dereh-ilee tribe, of which there
are some thirty families ; these, and three or four
families of the Tchibenchees, so named from their
occupation of keeping bees, are the only tent-in
habiting tribes to be found in this part of Taulish.
Further down we came to a stratum of clouds,
and for some time were enveloped in a thick mist :
here the oaks had disappeared, and the beech pre-

BAD ROADS. 49
dominated ; the trees being about three times the
size of those at the top of the mountains, and ex
hibiting the dense green foliage of summer.
The turf was covered with moss, wild strawberries,
and a great variety of other plants. The only birds
I saw were some woodpeckers, but the blackbird
and thrush were numerous at the foot of the hills.
The road was now almost impassable, deep holes
full of mud and water being formed between the
roots of the trees, which, spreading like network
over the surface of the ground, were exceedingly
painful and dangerous to the limbs of the horses.
We were frequently obliged to dismount, and lead
the animals. One poor brute, which luckily carried
nothing but the stable furniture, stumbled, and rolled
head over heels some five or six times down the side
of a hill, until brought up by a large tree : I thought
every bone in its body must have infallibly been
broken ; but it appeared more frightened than hurt,
and walked on as if nothing had happened. We
were now near the foot of the mountains; the
underwood of rank vegetation became very dense,
and the wild vines were hanging in festoons from
the trees : — the weather was warm, the birds were
singing merrily among the bushes, and the wintry
scene of the morning had vanished as if by magic,
and in the short space of a few hours had been
replaced by midsummer. The road we had travelled
was not that commonly adopted by caravans, as the
usual one was impracticable, on account of the
late destruction by a flood of some bridge over the
Astara river. We forded this stream at the small

50 NIGHT-FALL.
village of Kishveh, consisting of about half a dozen
huts, some built of stakes and mud, and some of
logs, both being covered with a high slanting roof,
thatched with rice-straw and the branches of trees.
They have no chimneys, being afraid of the thatch
taking fire ; but the smoke escapes through the door,
which extends to the top of the walls for that pur
pose, and must therefore be continually kept open.
Having crossed the river, we were assured by our
guide that we should soon arrive at Astara. Time,
however, wore on ; the sun set, and the road hardly
practicable by daylight became doubly difficult in
the dark. The jackals, and other beasts of the forest,
commenced a most dismal howling in every direc
tion ; the rain began to fall, and our guide appeared
completely bewildered. After crossing and recross-
ing the river several times, we halted near some
cottages, which were thickly scattered among the
trees, and obtained a fresh guide and a couple of
naphtha lamps, which proved a great relief to the
horses ; and in half an hour more we arrived at a
house already prepared for us, a man having been
despatched very early from Nemeen for that pur
pose. Tired and hungry, we were obliged to content our
selves with merely some boiled rice for dinner, and
with the bare floor for our bed, as the cook and our
baggage had remained behind in the forest.

51

CHAPTER IV.
Astara. — The River. — Cutting Iron. — Ghileh-keran. — Revenue of
Meer Caussim Khan's District. — Fishing. — The Caspian  Cos
tume of the Peasantry. — Difficulty of obtaining Information. —
Departure from Astara. — Shells. — Scenery of the Coast. —
Arrival at Hehvee. — Wild Hog  Hehvee. — Departure. —
Names of Rivers. — The Kerghanagh-rood. — Village of Ker
ghanagh. — A kind Invitation. — Ferrajoollah Beg. — Civility. —
Persian Dinner. — Persian Appetite. — We remain a day at
Kerghanagh. — Royal Tiger. — Wild Beasts inhabiting Gheelaun.
— Persian Manner of Eating. — Leave Kerghanagh. — A Taulish
House. — Mode of Collecting Attendants. — Take leave of the
Beg. — The Kummer — Fishing. — Modes of taking Wild Fowl.
— Rivers forded during the day. — Arrival at Coopoorchar. —
Taulish. After a comfortless night, we rose with the sun,
and, taking our guns, sallied forth to look at the
place. The morning was most lovely ; not a cloud
was to be seen, except some light vapours hanging
about the neighbouring mountains; the dew was
sparkling on the leaves, and grass and everything
wore the appearance of the month of June.
We had supposed Astara to be a town enjoying a
considerable trade with Russia ; but we found that
the name was applied to a district containing eight
villages, six of which are on the Russian side of the
river, forming the boundary of their possessions in
this direction, and two on the Persian side. That in

52 CUTTING IRON.
which we were lodged was situated at the mouth of
the river close to the sea, and is called Dahen Ken-
nar (mouth side). The other Persian village, half
a mile from the sea, is called Khoshkee Dahen (dry
mouth), where we had obtained our guide the pre
vious evening. Each is said to contain fifty or sixty
houses : but as they are so widely scattered among
the trees, and only one or two are to be seen at the
same time, it is almost impossible to form an idea of
their number from casual observation.
The river is about forty yards broad ; and on the
Persian side are two ranges of storehouses for the
reception of merchandise, and a good natural quay,
alongside which lay two or three flat-bottomed boats,
of about three tons' burden. Across the mouth is a
bar of sand, partly above water, leaving only a narrow,
shallow passage on the northern side, by which these
boats enter; they are employed along the coast to
land the cargoes of vessels, which are obliged to lie
a couple of miles out at sea. A Russian was at this
time at anchor in the offing.
Astara is merely a place of landing and loading
goods ; there is no bazar nor market, and nothing
is disposed of here, but what arrives is immediately
transported to Ardebeel, and is included in the ac
count of the trade of that city ; and what comes from
the interior is shipped at once to Russia. The iron,
on landing, is thrown on the beach, where the bars
are cut into a convenient length for land carriage.
The operation is performed in the open air; the
only apparatus being a pair of bellows, some char
coal, an anvil, a hammer, and a kind of chisel. We

REVENUE OF MEER CAUSSIM KHAN'S DISTRICT. 53
found several parties of men busily engaged in this
work : they receive half a shahee, or a little more
than a farthing, for cutting each bar. There is no
custom-house here, and very irregular accounts, if
any, are kept of the trade ; as before mentioned, we
were referred for them to Ardebeel.
On the Russian side of the river, immediately op
posite, is the village of Ghileh-keran, containing
about four hundred houses, of which only two or
three are visible from this side, the remainder being
buried among the trees. It is inhabited by Mussul
mans. Except a commandant, and a guard of fifteen
Cossacks, no Russians are settled there. No duties
are taken on goods entering the Russian territory;
but an officer seals the packages, which proceed
to Lankeran, where the customs are levied. The
Russians have established a quarantine station
there, and are building a stone fort, which was
said to be nearly completed ; and we heard that
the guns intended for it had lately been brought
there. The country, as far south as a stream called the
Tchilivend, is under the government of Meer Caus
sim Khan. Its revenue amounts to 3500 tomauns,
of which he receives . . . Tmns. 1500
The Shahzadeh Khanum . „ 1000
And he pays the Government „ 1000

Tmns. 3500
We continued our stroll along the beach, and then,
turning towards the jungle, endeavoured to find a
pheasant, as we were told they were there in abun-

54 THE CASPIAN.
dance ; our search, however, was unsuccessful. On
our return we found the baggage had arrived, having
spent the night in the woods ; and, as their horses
as well as our own appeared much fatigued, we
determined to give them a day's rest.
After breakfast I took my rod and fishing-tackle,
and went down to the river. Salmon were said to
be generally plentiful, though now the season was
almost too far advanced; but I was told that there
was great variety of other fish. I hired a small
canoe, called a " noh," formed of the hollowed trunk
of a single tree, which the boatman managed dex
terously with a pole, and we pushed up the stream.
The depth seldom exceeded five feet, in general it
was three. The banks were wooded, and exceed
ingly picturesque. The water, discoloured by the late
rains, together with a burning sun overhead, fore
boded little sport with a fly : I took out a salmon-
fly, however, and whipped away for a quarter of an
hour without a single rise. I next tried in succes
sion artificial minnows, worms, dough, meat, and
bread and cheese ; and, having patiently watched my
float for " about four hours, without the slightest in
dication of a nibble, put up my rod, and returned
home. I found that it still wanted an hour to sunset ; so,
with my gun and sketch-book I sauntered down to
the beach, and took a view of the entrance of the
river, from the point of the bank at its mouth. This
bank and the neighbouring beach were almost en
tirely formed of the detritus of the cockle, the only
shell to be found. During my walk I killed two

COSTUME OF THE PEASANTRY. 55
pintailed grouse, and saw many flocks of wild fowl,
but all flying very high.
I wandered about till long after the sun had set,
enjoying the delicious weather. The view of the
Caspian had something of that peculiarly pleasing
effect which an expanse of water generally produces,
but the refreshing salt scent of the ocean was want
ing, for the water was only brackish ; and the absence
of all shipping, save a solitary, strangely-rigged Rus
sian craft in the distance, the want of sea->weed, and
the general appearance of the coast, suggested the
idea of a large lake. This sea is usually called by
the natives the " Derrieh Hushtakhan" (Sea of As-
trachan). It is also called the " Derrieh Khizzar."
The evening was very damp, and I returned home
nearly wet through by the heavy dew that was
falling. The peasantry along the coast are sallow, un
healthy-looking people. Dreadful fevers, ague, pu
trid sore-throats, and various eye complaints, are the
prevalent diseases. The costume is very simple ; that
of the women consists of a cloth round the head, a
pair of wide shalwars or trowsers tied tightly above
the hips, and of a short shirt reaching scarcely half
way down the thigh : both the latter articles of dress
are generally of a dark blue calico. The men wear
the same shirt and trowsers ; but, when out of doors,
they put over them a felt coat without seam, and an
immense pair of wide dark-coloured shalwars, of a
coarse native manufacture. They are shod with a
sandal of raw hide, laced over the instep and ancle ;
and from a belt round the waist hang a kunimer,

56 DIFFICULTY OF OBTAINING INFORMATION.
powder-horn, and various small leather bags con
taining apparatus connected with their arms, while
a long flint-and-steel gun completes their equip
ment. We had been attempting to obtain some distinct
information regarding the trade here ; and the fol
lowing will show the extreme difficulty attending
such endeavours. We found a man, who received
and forwarded the various merchandise which arrived
from Astrachan, and who at first referred us to the
custom-house at Ardebeel ; but, after pressing him,
he at last admitted that he had kept accounts
of them himself, and promised to draw up for us a
correct statement. Leaving us to execute his pro
mise, he almost immediately returned with a paper,
which it would have been impossible to have written
in so short a time ; and which, on examination,
turned out to be very imperfect memoranda, five
or six years old. We represented to him that such
notes were of no use ; and he then promised, that, if
we sent our Meerza, he would give him the informa
tion in a complete form. The Meerza went at the
appointed time, but the man had disappeared. The
fact is, that these people, never thinking of inquiring
about anything in which their own interest is not in
volved, cannot conceive why we should do so ; they
fear that in some way or other we wish to interfere
with them, or may bring them into trouble ; and
hence they either at once refuse, or indirectly avoid
giving any information they may possess.
On rising the following morning the sky was one
mass of dark clouds, and threatened a heavy fall of

ARRIVAL AT HEHVEE. 57
rain ; but the climate is here so variable that a
change may be expected from hour to hour, and
this afforded some hope that, in spite of present
appearances, we might yet arrive at the end of our
stage with a dry coat.
All things being ready, and our baggage having
started an hour before us, we left Astara. The road
lay along the beach, formed, as before mentioned, of
sand and the detritus of the cockle, which is thrown
up in some places in great abundance. Besides this,
there are only two other kinds of shell found in the
Caspian, — the spirorbis, and a kind of muscle ; but
the cockle is by far the most plentiful on the
southern shores. As it is contrary to the Maho-
medan religion to eat shell-fish, it is not known as
an article of food. The sands are in some places
two hundred, but often do not exceed fifteen yards
in breadth; and thick forest, with a dense border of
underwood, consisting of hawthorn, wild pome
granate, and medlar trees, descend from the moun
tains to their very verge. The pomegranates were
exceedingly acid ; but some few of the medlars that
were nearly ripe proved eatable. The tracks of the
wild boar were numerous, though the only game we
saw were two or three woodcocks.
Mile after mile the scenery continued the same.
We passed in succession the rivers Khodjeh-kerree,
Khanrood, Sevendevil, Tchilivend, Hadgee-rustam,
Lemeer, and Nobat-chai. They are all clear shallow
streams about twenty yards broad, and had formed
sand-banks at their mouths. About half-past two
p. m., we came to the river Hehvee, distant from

58 HEHVEE.
Astara twenty-eight miles ; and, turning along its
banks into the forest, arrived at a village of the
same name, where we intended to put up for the
night. While a house was being prepared for our recep
tion, and our loads being unpacked, we took our
guns and strolled into the woods, which in some
places were quite impassable from swamp, brambles,
and prickly shrubs, but in others were more open.
Under some fine tall oaks we saw the tracks of
numerous wild pigs, which had been turning up the
ground in every direction. Our guide said that
there were immense quantities ; and Mahomedan
prejudices never appeared more unreasonable than
at that moment, standing, as they did, between me
and a leg of wild pork. We saw nothing till after
sunset, when, as we were returning home, a great
many woodcocks flew over our heads on their way
to the sea-shore.
Hehvee is situated about a mile from the sea on
the left bank of the river ; and the houses, as usual,
scattered through the forest, rendered it impossible
to calculate their probable number. The inhabit
ants cultivate rice, keep bees, and make a pretty
kind of matting of reeds. The common fruits are
figs, apples, pears, and grapes ; the latter we tasted
and found very tolerable, though little or no care
seemed to be taken of the vines.
We were now in Balla Khan's territory, which is
divided from that of Meer Caussim Khan by the
river Tchilivend ; and is said to contain between
twenty and thirty villages, and a great many families

THE KERGHANAGH-ROOD. 59
of tent-dwellers, who go generally under the appel
lation of Tchooban (shepherd), as they keep large
flocks. We left Hehvee at about eight o'clock on the
morning of the 18th ; and, fording the river over
a clear stony bed, continued our journey along
the coast, which presented the same description of
scenery as the day before. The only novel object
we fell in with was a tent, formed of the sails of a
vessel which lay about a mile in the offing; the
crew of which had landed to cut timber to load for
Bakoo. We forded the rivers Sheelawaun, Khat-mesourah,
Lissar-chai, and Kerghanagh-rood, all in some mea
sure dangerous on account of quicksands, and re
quiring experienced guides ; though I think that
the danger is generally much exaggerated. The
Kerghanagh-rood is by far the largest stream we
had as yet crossed ; and a wide stony bed of some
three hundred yards, strewed with rocks and the
trunks of large trees, show that it must be a
tremendous torrent in the spring. At this time the
water was running in several small rills over a
nearly dry bed.
At the mouth of this river was formerly a fishery
of sturgeon, which had been lately discontinued by
Balla Khan, on account of a jealousy exhibited by
the Persian Government at the Russians being ad
mitted to this part of the coast.
We reached the banks of the stream late in the
afternoon ; and, having sent our Gholaum and a guide
in advance to procure lodgings at the village of

60 VILLAGE OF KERGHANAGH.
Kerghanagh, we turned from the sea, and, proceed
ing inland about three miles through the forest,
arrived at our intended resting-place at sunset.
The houses are scattered through the jungle, and
built in the usual manner of this country; some
were roofed with shingles, covered with stones to
keep them in their places, and the rest were
thatched with rice-straw or reeds. This village is
the largest in the district of Kerghanagh-rood, and
is the winter residence of Balla Khan, who retires
in the summer with most of the inhabitants to his
yeilauks at Aug-evler, which are described by all
who have been there as exceedingly beautiful in
scenery, and healthy in climate. The Khan was at
this time at Enzellee.
There appeared to be some difficulty about pre
paring a house for us ; the owner of the one chosen
grumbling, and protesting that if he gave it to us he
should get into a scrape with his master's son, who
wished to make us his own guests ; but as we were
very tired, and it was already dark, we declared we
would remain where we were. In the meantime,
however, the gentleman in question himself ap
peared, inviting us most pressingly to go to his
residence, where every preparation had been made,
and where we should be better accommodated than
in the village. As he seemed so much in earnest, we
accepted his proffered kindness, mounted our horses
again, and rode off with him.
Ferrajoollah Beg, Balla Khan's second son, was
a jolly round-faced vulgar looking-fellow, terribly
pitted with the small-pox. Contrary, however, to

PERSIAN DINNER. 61
the rules of physiognomy, he turned out to be a
sensible, shrewd man, well acquainted with the
history of his own country, and knowing a great
deal of that of England and India ; he had also a
tolerable idea of Europe, and his remarks were more
pertinent than those of most of his countrymen.
On arriving at his house we were shown into a
comfortable apartment ; rose-water was poured over
our hands and beards, and tea was served. Our
host, after many polite speeches, wishing to put us
completely at our ease, requested us to stretch out
our legs, instead of sitting in the Eastern fashion;
" Or," observed he, " perhaps you would like to
walk up and down the room." We assured him,
however, that, having been in the saddle since the
morning, we thought we had enjoyed enough ex
ercise for one day ; and that we felt perfectly com
fortable. The English habit of pacing up and down
a room is a matter of profound astonishment to
Asiatics in general, who have no idea of any person
walking about when he has the option of sitting
still. The Hindoos, I have been told, think it a
part of our worship.
After tea the Beg left us to ourselves for about an
hour, when he returned, accompanied by his two
brothers, Nooroollah Beg and Shookroollah Beg; a
brother of Mehmet Khan, chief of the Shah-sevens,
and some other friends, and dinner immediately
followed. A tray containing a chillo and pillo,
radishes, fried eggs, a stew of meat, and a bowl of
sherbet, was allotted to each two persons ; and, at
the word "Bismillah" (In the name of God), the

62 PERSIAN APPETITE.
company fell to in silence, unbroken during the
whole time save by the sound of the various jaws in:
process of mastication. Hands were thrust deep
into the greasy dishes, rice squeezed into balls and
swallowed with astonishing rapidity ; and in less
than a quarter of an hour little remained of the
immense piles which had been set before them.
Water was then brought in, and each guest slightly
wetted his fingers, afterwards wiping them on his
pocket-handkerchief or his coat, as the case might be;
which ceremony had scarcely been performed, when
our Shah-seven friend and one or two others, loosen
ing their belts, immediately lapsed into a state of
torpidity. My companion and myself had made a
plenteous meal, but our dishes appeared comparatively
untouched. The Persians are very large eaters, par
ticularly those of the lower classes ; five of our
servants, who dined together, devoured every day
about twenty pounds of bread, besides a good allow
ance of meat and fruit ; and one evening three of
the grooms ate among them ten pounds of rice,
and were grumbling because they could not get
any more. The Persians say that the English do not
eat ; they only play with their food.
After dinner, having received intelligence that
our baggage had halted for the night at the mouth
of the river, we sent a person to bring it on ; and in
the meantime, as it was late, the Beg very kindly
offered to lend us bedding, which we thankfully
accepted. On undressing, I found myself covered
with swellings, occasioned by the bite of some insect,
which were most painfully irritable.

WILD BEASTS INHABITING GHEELAUN. 63
Our baggage arrived during the night ; and, as
soon as we awoke in the morning, the servants came
to represent the necessity of resting the horses,
stating that it was forty-eight miles to Enzellee,
and that if we started to-day the animals could not
proceed far, and we should arrive there at sunset
the following evening, which would not give the
necessary time to look for a comfortable lodging.
Ferrajoollah Beg, at the same time, sent a message
to say that he should be delighted if we would
extend our visit. All things, therefore, being con
sidered, though we were anxious to reach Enzellee,
we determined to enjoy the luxury of a day's
repose. The morning was delightful; and we took a walk
about the premises with our host and his other
guests. He showed us the skin of a royal tiger, a
very large animal, which had been killed about
a year before ; five or six of them are shot annually
by the peasantry.
The wild beasts inhabiting these forests are the
royal tiger, panther, an animal called the vasheg,
which I believe to be the lynx, the wolf, hog, jackal,
bear, loose or chebelek, said to be of the colour of a
tabby cat, and which I thought might be the wild cat,
but they said not ; and an animal called the shing;
the skin of which is valuable. I have no idea what
this is. There are more than one species of the goat
and deer ; of the latter there is a fine animal called
the maral. Otters are found in the rivers.
About twelve o'clock, the usual Persian time, we
were summoned to breakfast, and all returned to

64 PERSIAN MANNER OF EATING.
the house exceedingly sharp-set. The meal was
a repetition of dinner, and the same feeding scene
took place as on the previous evening. I have
often heard it remarked, with respect to the Eastern
custom of eating with the fingers, that it was a mis
take to regard it as unpleasant ; and that the hands,
which were thoroughly washed, were cleaner imple
ments than our knives and forks. In Persia, I can
only say that I found the washing a very ineffi
cient ceremony ; no soap is used, a little tepid
water being merely poured over the hands before
and after dinner, and they are oftentimes wiped
with a pocket-handkerchief which has not been
washed for perhaps six months. The voracious
manner in which they swallow their food is dis
gusting. In general, Persians admire the European
custom of using the knife and fork, and confess
that it is more decent in appearance, and cleanlier
in reality, than their own ; but Ferrajoollah Beg,
while admitting this, observed, that after all he
preferred eating with the hand, as it imparted a
flavour to the food : judging from the colour and
appearance of his own hand, I should think the
observation correct.
It was nearly one o'clock when the company dis
persed, and feeling disinclined to go out in the broil
ing sun, (for, though the middle of November, it felt
like the middle of summer,) I occupied myself till
dusk in finishing some rough sketches made on the
road ; and then taking my gun strolled along the
edge of the forest till dark, when I returned, not
having seen any game. This evening we dined

A TAULISH HOUSE. 65
alone, and made our own cook prepare the meal, as
we were already tired of chillo and pillo.
Having a long day's journey before us, we rose
early, and left Kerghanagh, accompanied by Fer
rajoollah Beg and Shookroollah Beg. The former
soon took leave, but the latter continued with us
to the village of Jellowdar, where a house had
been cleared and a capital breakfast prepared.
The house I will describe, as a fair specimen of
the dwellings throughout Taulish and Gheelaun,
though perhaps rather better furnished than the
generality. It consisted of a single room plas
tered with mud, having two or three arched re
cesses in the walls. The fire was placed in a shal
low semi-circular hole in the earthen floor, imme
diately in front of a projecting mass of clay, about
four feet in length and breadth, and two feet high,
serving to support the cooking utensils. There
was no outlet for the smoke except through the
door, which was made for this purpose the whole
height of the apartment, and had of necessity to
be kept open while the fire was burning. The ceil
ing was formed of square wooden beams placed
close together, which had become blackened by the
constant action of the smoke. The mud-work of
the walls was very neatly executed, and the re
cesses were edged with white plaster, though this
is dispensed with in the poorer cottages. The roof
was of good rice-straw thatch, projecting many feet
from the walls, and supported by wooden pillars,
thus forming a verandah, where in fine weather the
women sit and spin.

66 FISHING.
Breakfast being over, we left the village, still
accompanied by Shookroollah Beg, and proceeded
through the forest towards the sea-shore. As we
went along, he occasionally ordered the men we
happened to see in the way to follow him, so that
in a short time we had six or eight fellows armed
with rifles and kummers marching in our train.
" My followers are always ready," observed he;
" and, when I go abroad, I leave home alone,
and collect them in this manner as I journey on
wards." Having accompanied us some distance, the Beg
and his followers took leave, and we continued our
march, regretting much that we could not afford
time to stay longer with these wild foresters, whose
kindness and hospitality had gained our esteem.
Their mode of life reminds one of that of the
Scotch Highlanders in days of yore ; they are di
vided into clans, each chief having his own retainers,
who are always armed, both from habit and as a
protection against wild beasts. The kummer is a
favourite means of defence, which they are seldom
without. It is a formidable two-edged pointed
weapon, very much like the ancient Roman sword,
With a blade about a foot and a-half long and three
inches broad, generally very sharp, and capable of
inflicting the most deadly wounds. The people
consider it cowardly to stab, and use it only for
cutting ; a thrust would probably be fatal.
During our march I perceived a man fishing at
the mouth of a small river, and bought from him a
fine trout, weighing about seven pounds, for a sahib

MODES OF TAKING WILD FOWL. 67
kurraun (one shilling), though I was afterwards told
that this was nearly double the usual price. The
flesh was not very red, but proved well-flavoured.
At this season these fish quit the rivers, and the
fisherman with a long fork in his hands was watch
ing on the shore at the mouth of the stream for
those which were accidentally thrown within his
reach by the surf. They say salmon abound in
these rivers from June till the end of October;
which, with the sefeed-mahee (white fish), resem
bling a grey mullet, and many other kinds of fish,
form the chief food of the inhabitants.
Further on we came to several small reed-huts,
serving as a shelter during the night for men who
catch wild ducks. In many places near the coast
are extensive swamps, the resort in winter of im
mense numbers of wild fowl, where long nets are
suspended to high poles in various directions; and
below them are placed decoy-ducks, tied by the legs
to a short piece of twine, which is fixed by a peg in
the bottom. During the night the wild fowl are
attracted by the cry of the tame birds, and flying,
low, are caught by the neck in the meshes of the
nets. Another method is also practised. A large
net is fixed upright, and kept in that position by a
long cord held by the fowler, who is concealed
among the high reeds. Decoy-ducks are placed
within its range, and, on the wild fowl alighting
among them, the string is let go, and the net falling
over the birds makes them fly upwards, when they
are caught in the meshes. This method is always
practicable ; but the other only succeeds on dark
F 2

68 TAULISH.
stormy nights, when one man may sometimes take
ten or fifteen ducks. All along the coast, both in
Gheelaun and Mauzunderoon, multitudes of these
birds are annually thus captured.
Continuing onwards we passed the following
rivers : — the Hindekerron, the Kelfarood, the Nova-
rood, the Allalon-chai, the Kholasoror, the Dina-
char-chai (a considerable river), the Soomerkerron,
the Alekion, the Nokendeh, the Shooaree-chai, and
the Mahmoud Tukianee. Most of them were at
this season shallow streams, but become rapid tor
rents in the spring.
After a ride of about thirty miles along the
beach, which presented the same scenery as hereto
fore, we arrived at sunset at Coopoorchar. It was a
small village, built in a style similar to the others
along this coast, and having nothing remarkable in
its appearance. We saw here orange-trees for the
first time, and roses and many other flowers were
in full bloom.
This is the last village in Taulish, which, though
essentially part of Gheelaun, and nominally under
the authority of the Governor of that province, is
sometimes considered as separate. It is divided
into five or six different districts, each under its
respective Governor, who is virtually an independent
chieftain, and the only authority acknowledged by
the peasantry. Most of the inhabitants retire to
the yeilauks in the summer, and for this reason
very little silk is produced, as it is during the hot
months that the worms require unremitting at
tention.

TAULISH. 69
The revenue of Taulish is altogether about
30,000 tomauns (15,000/. sterling), from which
14,000 tomauns are deducted for the maintenance
of the contingent of men furnished by the chiefs, as
will be explained hereafter.

70

CHAPTER V.
Departure from Coopoorchar. — Approach Enzellee. — Our Quarters.
— Present from the Governor. — Fishing. — Bad Weather. —
Receive Visits. — Persian Window. — An Invitation. — Mohamed
Ameen Khan. — Soldiery. — Military resources of Gheelaun. —
Calling the Muster-roll. — The Admiral of the Caspian. —
Review. — Cannon and Foundry at Enzellee. — " Bust." — Visit
to. the Admiral. — Remarks. — A satisfactory conclusion. — Fine
day ! — The Lake of Enzellee. — Rivers flowing into it. — Fishes.
— Boats. — Pelicans. — Rain. — Pheasant Shooting. — Enzellee. —
Its Trade — Its Revenue. — Price of Provisions. — Departure for
Peeree Bazar. — Arrival. — Horses. — The Road to Resht. — The
Mongodeh River. — Cause of the Bad State of the Road. —
Arrival at Resht.
The previous evening had foreboded a storm,
which, however, had passed away during the night ;
not a cloud was visible, and the wind had entirely
ceased. We mounted our horses at ten o'clock, and
rode for twelve miles along the ridge of. sand, which,
varying in breadth from a quarter to half a mile,
separates the lake of Enzellee from the Caspian.
This curious strip is partly covered with jungle,
among which is an occasional house or two. I put
several rabbits out of the bushes, but could not get
a shot at them : I have not seen any of these ani
mals in the East before, except in islands, where
they are called the " island hare."
After an intensely hot ride, we approached En-

OUR QUARTERS. 71
zellee, situated at the eastern extremity of the sand
bank. Outside the village we were met by Noor-
oollah Beg, Balla Khan's second son, who had arrived
the previous evening, and given notice of our ap
proach. He was attended by about thirty of his
wild clansmen, armed in the manner before describ
ed. Shortly afterwards we met a deputation of the
inhabitants, and proceeded in state towards the vil
lage, where a great crowd had collected to witness
our arrival. Near the entrance I observed a num
ber of grave- stones, marking the burial-place of those
who fell victims to the dreadful plague which visit
ed the whole of this coast in 1830-31, and destroyed
here about two-thirds of the population. We were
now met by two or three topchees (artillerymen),
who, heading the procession, marshalled us to our
quarters, which consisted of whatever chambers we
were pleased to choose in the upper story of a large
unfinished house ; the ground-floor being merely an
open hall: Much hesitation was not necessary in
the selection, as one apartment only was at all
habitable, and its sole recommendation was that it
had doors ; out of four, however, two alone would
shut properly, and the side of the room which the
window should have closed was open, so that in fact
it possessed but three sides. All this was very
annoying, as we intended remaining here some days ;
and the more particularly so, as we had sent on the
Gholaum a day before, with express orders to see
that, at least, a habitable place was prepared. This
man had no idea of what we considered comfort ;
and a gorgeously painted window in the hall below

72 BAD WEATHER.
having attracted his admiration, and the building
being large, he immediately decided that it was a
most desirable residence ; and, when he met us out
side the town, declared with great satisfaction that
he had found a perfect palace. There was, how
ever, no alternative, since another place could not
have been procured without great delay ; so that,
on the people promising to put up a window im
mediately, we spread our carpets, and unpacked our
baggage, somewhat softened by the prospect of a
week's rest.
Soon after our arrival the Wallee or Governor of
Gheelaun, Mahomed Ameen Khan, sent us a hand
some present of four large trays of melons, apples,
pomegranates, various kinds of oranges and lemons,
and six or seven boxes of sweetmeats. It is consi
dered a polite attention to send sweets and fruits,
of which the Persians are very fond and with which
they decorate their rooms, piling the fruits in a
tasty manner in the recesses in the walls. •
The evening was most lovely, and we went in a
boat to the entrance of the lake. I had with me
my fishing tackle, but could not catch anything ;
the owner of the boat, however, was more success
ful with a casting-net, and caught two fish, which I
took to be bream : the Persian name is " seam."
They proved watery, and without flavour, and were
full of bones.
The next morning, the 22nd, the rain descended
in torrents. The weather yesterday had been very
warm, and it appears to be generally the case here,
that the vapour which has been drawn up during a

RECEIVE VISITS. 73
hot day falls the next in the form of rain. The sky,
however, cleared a little for half an hour before
breakfast time, and in that interval we were visited
by half the inhabitants of Enzellee, and among
others came Balla Khan. I was much interested in
seeing this Taulish chief, both from what I had be
fore heard of him, and on account of the civilities
we had received from his sons. Mr. Fraser speaks
of him as a specimen of a " perfectly well-bred Per
sian gentleman," and hence I was not in the least
prepared to see such a rough-looking, ugly, old fel
low ; but twenty years over a man's head make
great changes. Mustafa Khan, of Assaulim, a
Taulish district, was also present, and seemed, as
far as appearance went, much the most gentlemanly
of the two. Then came the commandant of artil
lery, a most ludicrous little figure. He was a native
of Azerbijan, and talked chiefly about his guns and
" Minti Sahib," as he called Colonel Monteith, whom
he had known when in Persia. He invited us to
visit the arsenal, and see his men manoeuvre.
The room soon became so full of khans, begs, mer
chants, moollahs, and other worthies, that some
were obliged to retire to give place to the new
comers, there being literally no space for them to
sit down. All these people had to take a cup of
tea, and smoke two or three kalleoons ; and, though
exceedingly hungry, we were forced to practise the
mortification of our appetites for upwards of two
hours. At last one of the great men rose, and,
taking leave, was followed by all the rest, and we
went to breakfast.

74 PERSIAN WINDOW.
The rain had recommenced, and continued to fall
heavily during the remainder of the day. We oc
cupied ourselves with reading and- writing, and with
trying to make our room more habitable: several
arched openings in the walls over the doors were
stopped up, and the window was put in.
Windows in Persia are generally made of stained
glass put together in very small pieces, of different
sizes and colours, and forming what we should call
a kaleidoscope pattern. The manner of putting
them up is curious. The wood-work having been
already made of several hundred small pieces, cor
responding with each other in the desired pattern,,
is fixed in its place before the glass is put in. This
is not done with putty ; but the glazier, beginning
from the bottom of the frame, takes it to pieces,
and then joins it together again, inserting, as he
goes on, each bit of glass into the particular groove
formed in the wood-work for its reception. When
finished, these windows are sometimes very beauti
ful ; but as the glass does not fit tightly in every
place, if there be any wind, it makes a continual
jingling noise, and the air passes through the
crevices. We were confined to the house the whole of the
two following days, but on the morning of the 25th,
though a drizzling rain was still falling, we received
an invitation from Mahomed Ameen Khan to come
down to the sea-shore, and witness the calling of
the muster-roll of the toofenkchees (musqueteers),
as it was a fine day. It appeared to me, that, as
one might easily get wet through in a quarter of an

MILITARY RESOURCES OF GHEELAUN. 75
hour, it was rather too damp to be called fine ; but,
as everything is comparative, perhaps this might be
a fine day for Gheelaun, where it sometimes pours
in torrents for a month together. We put on our
cloaks, and were conducted to a small wooden shed
erected on the beach ; here we found the Wallee,
a little, shrivelled, high-dried sort of man, surround
ed by several of the Taulish chiefs, who for the
most part furnish the men. Chairs were placed for
us, and they proceeded to business.
The men were drawn up on one side, those of
every chief separately ; and, on the names of each
man being called out, he stepped forward, made a
bow, and filed off to the other side. They were each
armed with a long flint-and-steel gun, a thick stick,
and a kummer, and, with few exceptions, were the
most miserable and sickly-looking wretches that can
be conceived.
The Taulish chiefs are bound to furnish about
six hundred of their military retainers at the de
mand of the Governor of Gheelaun. For his own
quota of the force, each chief deducts from the
revenue, for which he is responsible to Government,
about twenty-three tomauns per man, which, how
ever, he puts in his own pocket. The men follow
their usual occupations, and in no way differ from
the ordinary peasantry, from which class they are
selected. Besides the Taulish men, there are one
hundred Asterabad musqueteers, and an hundred and
fifty artillerymen, both paid by Government. At
the present muster, many of the chiefs brought more
than their contingent of men; and, in case of neces-

76 THE ADMIRAL OF THE CASPIAN.
sity, nearly the whole male population of Taulish
could be made available.
The scene was rather amusing ; and, as it was soon
over, did not become tedious. The old fellow who
called over the names persisted in shouting out the
wrong ones, though continually corrected, to the
great annoyance of the Government scribe, who was
checking them ; and the most ludicrous, dirty-look
ing figures stepped forward to such names as " Ram-
zaun Beg, the son of Rose-water ;" and " Milk of
Mohamed." As we left the ground, we met our fat friend,
the commander of the Topchees, who seemed very
anxious to exhibit his men and guns, and was
considerably disappointed when the Governor ob
served, " Yes, please God, we will see them to
morrow." The day had cleared up a little, and the
rain had for the moment ceased ; but, to-morrow —
the major seemed to think his chance of display very
small. Soon after returning home, we received a visit
from Mahomed Ameen Khan, accompanied by Aga
Meer Sadok, the Derrieh Beggee, or " Admiral" of
the Caspian ; an empty title, as the Persians do not
possess a single ship of war, and not more than two
or three small merchant-vessels. He was a very
gentlemanly and intelligent man, and formed a
striking contrast with his companion, who appeared
exceedingly stupid, and had hardly a word to say
for himself.
To-day our horses, which had been miserably
stabled here, were made to swim across the en-

REVIEW. 77
trance of the lake, and went on their way to Resht,
ourselves intending to go by water.
During the night the rain fell heavily; at nine
o'clock this morning it abated, and the sky looked
a little clearer. According to promise, we went to
visit the arsenal, and found the fat major in front of
his hundred and fifty topchees, in all the excitement
of marching and countermarching. They had no
arms ; and the exhibition reminded me of what little
boys at school undergo at the hands of some old
drill-sergeant. They marched backwards and for
wards, clapped their hands, and performed sundry
other equally scientific evolutions, occasionally en
livened and accompanied by three cracked trumpets ;
the major trotting about the while in such an ab
surd manner that we could with difficulty restrain a
burst of laughter. It would not be easy to con
ceive a more unmilitary-looking figure. He was a
little, punchy, round-shouldered man, with so short
a neck that his head appeared fixed on his shoulders
by the chin. He wore a pair of large white trowsers,
Hessian boots, a Persian lambskin cap, and a thread
bare plum-coloured coat, with red cuffs and collar,
embroidered with silver, set off by a pair of epaulettes
of the same metal, which, from long service, looked
like copper. Over his right shoulder was a white
sword-belt, which would have been much improved
by a little pipe-clay. When all was concluded, he
came towards us in a violent perspiration, with a
smile beaming on his countenance, which plainly in
dicated that he thought he had rather astonished us.
We expressed our delight at the truly military spec-

78 CANNON FOUNDRY AT ENZELLEE.
tacle we had just witnessed ; and he begged that,
on arriving at Tehraun, we would mention to the
Shah the perfect state of discipline of his men. They
were dressed in white loose trowsers and boots, the
common Persian cap, and a single-breasted jacket;
the colour of which appeared to be left to the fancy
of the wearer — red, blue, brown, and almost every
other colour being adopted. The men were of dif
ferent sizes, and, in marching, the endeavours of the
little ones to step out equally with the taller, who
all took the longest possible strides, had a very ridicu
lous effect.
We next inquired about the gun practice we had
expected to witness, but it appeared that there were
only one or two gun-carriages in serviceable con
dition, so that nothing could be done in that way.
There were twelve guns at this place, of the follow
ing calibre : two 18 lbs. ; two 14 lbs. ; two 12 lbs. ;
two 6 lbs. ; and four 3 lbs. : most of them were dis
mounted, and new carriages were being prepared for
them. We saw, besides, some ten or twelve models
of long six-pounders, of which twenty-four were to
be cast here during this winter. One of the 18 lbs.
seemed a good gun, and had lately been turned out.
This is one of the best arsenals in Persia ; but it was
just now rather out of order.
In one corner of the yard were some sixty or more
of the Astrabadee Toofenkchees, who had taken bust
there, complaining that they received no pay, and
that the Sirdar (general) had eaten their money.
This taking " bust," or sanctuary, is very common in
Persia ; and, when adopted on such an occasion, is a

VISIT TO THE ADMIRAL. 79
quiet way of expressing discontent. They remain
night and day, and no one can remove them ; their
friends bring them food ; and as the thing, of course,
soon spreads abroad, and perhaps reaches the ears
of Government, it seldom fails of obtaining its end,
and the fear of disgrace or punishment extorts what
a sense of justice would otherwise have withheld.
A stable is considered an inviolable sanctuary, and,
if a horse is picquetted, near its head is a place of
refuge, which the Persians much respect ; as, they
say, if this be violated, the animal will never after
wards carry its rider to victory.
During the course of the day we paid visits to
the Governor, the Derrieh Beggee, and several other
people. We found the Admiral in a very prettily
decorated apartment, the white plastered walls of
which, built with a variety of arched niches fitted
with mirrors, and adorned with painting and gild
ing, had a very beautiful appearance. He was sur
rounded by several of the chief merchants of Resht,
who chatted merrily, asking all sorts of questions
about England, some of which were very pertinent,
and others absurd and childish. Persians, in gene
ral, have no idea as to the propriety of the time for
introducing observations ; and, in your own presence,
will audibly make their remarks and speculations re
garding your appearance or affairs, with the greatest
freedom, though they are much too polite to say any
thing which they conceive to be offensive. On this
occasion there was a discussion as to Mr. A.'s salary
and appointment, and his business here; to all which
we sat passive listeners. They were much puzzled

80 FINE DAY !
to know who I was, or in what capacity with regard
to my friend ; but at last decided that I had just
arrived from England, with a rakm (commission,
or written command,) from our Padishah, ordering
Mr. A. to proceed to Tehraun, and that I was ac
companying him to see it carried into effect. With
regard to his business here, they could arrive at no
satisfactory or plausible conclusion, as they could not
conceive any one travelling through such a country
for information, or mere pleasure ; and they knew
that there was a direct road between Tabreez and
Tehraun which was both shorter and better.
During the day, though there had been thunder
and lightning, yet, as at short intervals the rain inr
termitted, the weather was pronounced by the na
tives to be unusually bright. In the evening the
sky promised a really fine day on the morrow, which
we anxiously desired, having been latterly so con
fined to the house that we began to feel the effects
of want of exercise.
As we hoped, so it turned out ; and we availed
ourselves of the opportunity to pay a visit to Balla
Khan, whom we found in a small house with several
other Taulish chieftains, surrounded by their wild
retainers. I afterwards hired a boat, and employed
myself in making some sketches of Enzellee and in
examining the features of the lake.
The entrance to this curious piece of water is now
about three hundred yards wide, but it is almost
closed by a bar of sand, which extends nearly across
it, and in some places is barely covered by a few
inches of water. Close, however, to the point on

THE LAKE OF ENZELLEE. 81
which Enzellee is situated is a narrow channel of
sufficient depth for most of the vessels navigating
the Caspian. Once inside this point, there is an
excellent natural harbour; the water is deep, and
the vessels lie close to the shore, which is formed
entirely of sand. Alterations are continually taking
place in the depth and appearance of the entrance,
which they say was formerly only a few yards broad ;
and in several places reedy islands are springing up,
and rapidly extending themselves, while in others
those previously formed are disappearing. In front
of the anchorage is a long island covered with trees
and jungle, giving the channel between the appear
ance of a river. The island has a few inhabitants,
and was originally joined to the point of the long
strip of sand opposite to Enzellee ; but it is now
separated from it by a channel four hundred yards
in width, and in some parts two fathoms deep. It
would appear from the directions given by Hanway
for anchoring off Enzellee, in his " Coasting Pilot of
the Caspian Sea," that vessels were in his time
unable to enter the lake. The Persian Government
some time since ordered that a battery should be
erected to protect the entrance ; and the work, it
was said, would be commenced next year. I
counted nine Russian vessels along the quay ; they
were unwieldy-looking craft, very high in the stern,
and rigged in a nondescript sort of style. I believe
that there are about an hundred and thirty vessels,
varying from forty to an hundred tons' burden, em
ployed in the trade to Russia, besides many boats
used in that along the coast. o

82

FISHES.

The water of the lake is fresh, and is supplied by
the numerous rivers which flow into it, of which
the following are the principal : —
The Mushed Roodbar The Khallakagee \ from the
Chokoover > district
Ispun ) of Gascar. from

The Choomiscal
The Hindoo-kaleh
„ No-kaleh
The Goulish-Kail
„ Sheijan
„ Infarood

Fomen. from
Toolun.

from
Resht.

„ Bahamber
„ Ghorabar
The Boolgoor
„ Sooloogondeh
The Seearvee
„ Lagsar
„ Siah-dervisnun
The Keeftarood
„ Peeree Bazar
„ Mungodeh
Besides these there are many other small rivulets,
which during the autumn and winter months are
almost dry.
Among the multitudes of fish with which the
lake literally swarms, are the sturgeon, the bream,
a large kind of lake trout, the salmon, the sefeed-
mahee, carp, and many others of the names of which
I am ignorant. The fishery of the sefeed-mahee is
rented by Meer Abou Talib Khan, the lessee of all
the sturgeon fisheries in Gheelaun, for between
2800 and 3000 tomauns (1400£. and 15001. sterling);
and is, I believe, a profitable speculation, the fish
being largely consumed in the province, and sent,
salted, to all parts of the north of Persia. The
sefeed-mahee is caught with a casting-net, which
the natives use with great dexterity.
The boats on the lake are in general about twenty-

PHEASANT SHOOTING. 83
five feet long, sharp at both ends, and flat-bottomed
on account of the shallowness of the water. They
are usually managed by two men with broad paddles ;
one in the bow, and the other in the stern. When
there is a little wind, they hoist a square sail, which
however they manage very clumsily. They use
also a canoe, being the excavated trunk of a tree,
which will sometimes hold four or five persons, and
is paddled by a man at the stern.
Having made my sketches, and looked in vain
among the reedy islands for wild fowl, I ordered the
boatmen to put me ashore. Multitudes of pelicans
were sailing about, and the fish were leaping out of
the water in every direction ; but, though I tried for
more than an hour, I did not succeed in catching any
of them. The season was not yet far enough ad
vanced for the wild fowl, which resort hither in vast
quantities during the winter.
Before I reached home the sky had again become
overcast, and large heavy drops were beginning to
fall, which increased to a perfect torrent soon after
I was fairly housed. It continued during the whole
of the 28th, and confined us to our room. We had
intended starting on the morrow for Resht, but were
obliged to postpone it a day longer, as nothing
could be prepared during such weather.
The following morning proved fine ; and, having
heard that pheasants were abundant on some of the
islands of the lake, I proceeded to one which was
pointed out as being more likely to produce sport
than the rest. On landing, however, I found that
the place was so covered • with dense thickets of
G 2

84 ENZELLEE.
bramble and almost equally impervious mulberry
plantations, that all attempts at shooting among
them were quite hopeless, and I very soon returned
with my clothes torn to pieces ; not, however, with
out having flattered myself into the belief that I
had heard a pheasant get up near me.
Enzellee contains, perhaps, between three hun
dred and three hundred and fifty houses built with
high pointed roofs, mostly thatched with reeds or
rice-straw, but in some instances covered with
baked tiles. In this part of Persia the inhabitants,
in building houses, endeavour to select a situation
with a good view, and do not hide their dwellings
with a heavy mud wall, as in the upper provinces ;
and the picturesque style of building and the
gardens in which the orange and citron stand
conspicuous, give the place a pleasing appearance.
Immediately opposite to Enzellee, on the point of
a corresponding strip of sand, is the village of Sarian ;
but not more than half a dozen houses are visible,
the rest being buried among the trees.
A trade is carried on with Astrachan, which they
say has somewhat diminished since the road from
Astara to Ardebeel has been established. The im
ports from Russja, on which a duty of five per
cent, is levied, are said to amount annually to
some 100,000 tomauns' worth, or about 50,000/.,
and consist of the same goods that have been
enumerated as passing through Astara to Ardebeel.
There is also a considerable quantity of naphtha
brought from Badcobeh and Bakoo, which the
peasantry burn instead of oil, and which has a very

ITS REVENUE. 85
agreeable odour. The exports are chiefly of silk
from Resht, and also of various native manufac
tures, and dried fruits from the interior.
The revenue derived by Government from En
zellee amounts to about 6580 tomauns per annum.
Of this—
The custom-house yields . . Tmns. 6000
Taxes on boats .... 480
„ houses .... 100

Tmns. 6580
Every house belonging to a Government employe
is free from taxation ; all others pay about half a
tomaun (five shillings) a-year. The revenue, there
fore, of 100 tomauns gives only two hundred houses
belonging to persons not in Government employ.
I have sometimes been told that Enzellee contains
six hundred houses ; but from this circumstance, and
the general appearance of the place,. I should not
think there are more than the number before
mentioned. Provisions are dear as compared with the price
at Tabreez. Bread costs here about \s. 2d. for
61bs.; at Tabreez about Ad. A fowl here is 6d.; at
Tabreez 2d. Mutton is of about the same value,
but rice is cheaper. Bread is seldom found at the
villages along the coast, and only in the towns even
at this high price, as rice and fish are the principal
food of the inhabitants.
On the 30th November, the weather being fine
and having packed up our baggage, we left our little
room as desolate and bare as when we had entered

86 DEPARTURE FOR PEEREE BAZAR.
it, and at nine o'clock departed for Peeree Bazar.
Ourselves, servants, and baggage occupied two large
boats, and, the wind being fair, a square sail was
hoisted ; which, with the occasional help of oars,
carried us across the lake to the entrance of the
Peeree Bazar river, a distance of about sixteen miles
in three hours. We made very slow progress after
entering the stream, which is not more than eight
or nine yards wide, and closely bordered with a
thick jungle of reeds, alders, and bramble-bushes.
Many boats similar to our own passed us on their
way to Enzellee. After having poled and rowed
about two miles and a-half in little more than an hour,
we came to an abrupt turning of the river, where
two small brick sheds for the reception of goods
marked the landing-place of Peeree Bazar. We
saw nothing of the village, which lay only a few
hundred yards further up the stream, but was totally
concealed by the forest. A number of horses were
waiting for us, which had been ordered by the
Wallee. They were all small animals, and I never
saw a more remarkable assortment of legs. Some
had bow-legs — others were knock-kneed ; some had
one leg straight and the other crooked ; while others
had both bent in the same direction, one in and
the other out. Some legs were very thin, and
entirely denuded of hair ; and others, on the contrary,
were swollen, and of precisely the same thickness
from the shoulder to the hoof. Altogether as a fancy
display it was exceedingly curious, but spoke most
impressively as to the dreadful state of the road
we were about to traverse. The accounts I had

THE ROAD TO RESHT. 87
read of it had in some measure prepared me ; but
the reality infinitely surpassed the idea I had
formed, and beggars all description. During the
whole way, a distance of six miles, this wretched
path presented a series of deep, muddy holes, into
which the horses plunged up to the girths at every
step, occasionally varied by places where the trunks
of trees had been laid down to improve it, but which,
soon getting displaced and broken, only served to
render it more dangerous. It lies chiefly through
a thick marshy forest, and in many places the direct
track is wholly impassable, each passenger finding
his way as he best can amid the surrounding swamps.
I believe no horses but the wonderful little brutes
we bestrode could have reached Resht with sound
limbs; they picked their way in a most extra
ordinary manner, seeming to know every inch of
the ground they were crossing, and seldom making
a false step, save one or two, which met with bad
falls from being heavily laden. The muleteers
tucked up their wide trowsers to the tops of their
thighs, and most actively leaped about in the mud ;
now hauling up a fallen horse ; now assisting the
animals, one by one, over some peculiarly bad spot,
and incessantly shouting and vociferating at the
top of their voices.
About half-way to Resht we crossed, by a narrow
bridge constructed of three trunks of trees with
cross planks, the river Mongodeh, which is about
eight yards wide, flows between deep sandy banks,
and falls into the lake a little east of the Peeree
Bazar stream. Thus far the Russians got in their

88 ARRIVAL AT RESHT.
attempt on Resht during the late war : they were
led by an Arminian guide ; but the impracticability
of the road, added to the fire of the riflemen who
lined the forest, compelled them to make a retreat
with considerable loss. This road is the only one
by which almost the whole trade of Gheelaun passes,
and many of the merchants of Resht declare that
they would willingly put it in repair at their own
expense: this, however, the Government will not
sanction ; and the road is allowed to remain as it is,
on that timid and barbarous policy which prevents the
amelioration and improvement of communications,
lest it should be the means of opening the way for
an enemy.
On arriving near Resht, of which nothing was
to be seen on account of the trees, we were met
by an istakball headed by the son of the Haukim
(governor), who conducted us to our quarters, and
then left us for the night. Feeling tired and sleepy,
we soon retired to rest ; that is, we simply got into
our beds, which were spread on the floor of our
sitting apartment, the retirement being a figure of
speech.

89

CHAPTER VI.
Lodgings. — Hadgee Mohamed Allee. — Hadgee Meer Ismael. — A
Persian Connoisseur in Drawing. — Superstition regarding the
Pig. — Resht. — Its Population. — Bazar. — Style of the Buildings.
— Revenue. — Silk. — Account of the Silk-worm. — Qualities of
the Silk. — Mulberry Plantations. — Annual amount of Silk. —
Manner of Exportation. — Obtain a Bath. — Pheasant Shooting.
— A Wild Beast ! — The Jackal. — Eclipse of the Moon. — Fortu
nate and Unfortunate Days. — Objections to Mr. A.'s Improved
Reel. The house which had been assigned us was built
in the usual style, and situated in a small garden
planted with orange-trees. It contained a couple of
rooms, one of which served us both for bed-chamber
and sitting-room, and the other was occupied by our
servants. These apartments were very comfortable
in all respects, save that, oiled paper being used in
the windows instead of glass, there was scarcely light
enough to see to read or write even at mid-day.
The following morning we were visited by a mer
chant named Hadgee Meerza Mohamed Allee, whom
Mr. Fraser mentions as having much contributed to
his comfort during his unfortunate stay at Resht in
1822 : he had a pleasing and benevolent expression
of countenance, and was agreeable in his manners
and conversation. He frequently called on us during
the remainder of our stay here. Shortly afterwards,

90 HADGEE MEER ISMAEL.
Hadgee Meer Ismael, the Haukim, was announced,
accompanied by six or eight of his friends, who
ranged themselves on the ground all round the room.
The Hadgee was placed in one of our travelling
chairs, in which he looked peculiarly unhappy,
owing to a mal-adaptation of its size to that of its
occupant : it was a rather narrow arm-chair, and, in
rising to take leave, he found to his dismay that it
still adhered to his person. He immediately com
menced an ineffectual struggle for freedom, which
he only accomplished by the aid of his attendants.
Mr. Fraser was quartered on this person, whom he
describes as a very disagreeable fellow, of " grave
aspect, very great, and proud-looking;" and is, I
think, more happy in this instance than when de
scribing Balla Khan. The Hadgee was a dull, re
served sort of man, though civil and attentive to us.
Knowing, indeed, the sentiments with which the
generality of Mussulmans regard Europeans, and
remembering that Mr. Fraser was forced on him as
a guest, — which, perhaps, moreover occasioned him
considerable inconvenience, — I think great allow
ances ought to be made for any surliness he may have
displayed on that occasion. The conversation was
principally kept up by his friends, who seemed to
try which could speak the loudest, and were untir
ing in their questions regarding our Padishah, Eng
land, and the world in general, in most cases display
ing a ludicrous and profound ignorance. One old
fellow with a comical expression of countenance,
who had been silently engaged for nearly an hour
in rolling up an opium pill in the palm of his hand,

A PERSIAN CONNOISSEUR. 91
at last appeared to have fingered it to his entire
satisfaction, and then began talking to me in Turk
ish, in a voice which might have been heard a mile
off, though I was sitting close to him. He first asked
my name, then whether I was not fond of getting
drunk, (Asiatics in general having an idea that all
Europeans tipple immoderately,) and he appeared
surprised and incredulous when I assured him that
such was not my practice. He then took up my
sketch-book, and, holding it upside down, said with
the air of a man who knows what he is talking
about, that the drawings were tolerably well exe
cuted ; and, pointing to an inverted picture of some
sunken ships on Enzellee Lake, commended it as a
very correct sketch of the Koolla Frengi, a building
at Resht, which he said he recognised immediately.
A few minutes afterwards he sunk under the effects
of the opium into a pleasant doze, from which he
awoke at intervals to roar out some question or
observation at the top of his voice, immediately
relapsing into oblivion. This loud way of speaking
I found very unpleasant, and the middle classes of
Persians have almost invariably the habit.
After the departure of these worthies, we visited
our horses, which we found miserably out of condi
tion, and much the worse for their fatiguing journey
from Enzellee, which they were three days in per
forming. We then took a walk along the banks of the
river Mongodeh, where in fine weather the inhabit
ants are fond of promenading. I observed a man
bringing a horse to water, accompanied by a wild pig

92 RESHT.
tamed. This was the first I had seen in the East,
and, from the abhorrence in which this animal is
held by all orthodox Mussulmans, I felt curious to
know why any one should have taken the trouble to
domesticate one ; I learned, however, that the na
tives have an idea, that, if one be kept in a stable,
any harm that might otherwise happen to the
horses would be sure to fall on the pig. I was
afterwards told by Persians that the late Russian
consul here believed implicitly in this superstition,
and, moreover, that but for this preservative he
would have been very unlucky in his stable, as the
pigs with which he was constantly supplied by the
peasants for the safety of his horses were continually
disappearing in a most mysterious manner : — the ma
jority of the natives shook their heads, and ascribed
it to the malignity of the deeres ; but a few, less
superstitious, had the ill-nature to insinuate that the
consul was fond of pork.
On the 3rd we remained at home to write ; and
the next day, having dispatched our courier, we
sallied forth with the intention of visiting the Hau
kim, but, not finding him at home, continued our
walk through the town.
The name of Resht is spelt with three Arabic
characters j Reh, ^i Shin, and cu Teh, the nume
rical value of which added together denote the year
of the Hegira in which the city was founded : thus,
j Reh stands for 200
Ji Shin „ 300
cy Teh „ 400

giving the 900th year of the

ITS POPULATION. 93
Hegira. The present being 1260, Resht is conse
quently 360 years old. The town is situated in a
plain, which about an hundred years ago was cleared
of wood by the Russians, from the sea-shore as far
as fifteen miles inland ; but it has been since over
grown with a dense jungle of brambles, dwarf al
ders, and young forest-trees. The houses are scat
tered here and there in the midst of this vegetation,
and from no point are there more than ten or
twelve visible at the same time. The lanes and
most of the streets are unpaved, often ancle-deep in
mud, and seem to have been formed by the constant
passage of men and beasts rather than by any effort
to make a regular path. When Fraser was here
in 1822, the place was in a highly flourishing con
dition, and he supposed the population to have
amounted to between 60,000 and 80,000 souls.
The bazars were extensive and well supplied, con^
taining some six hundred shops, and everything
betokened a prosperous commercial town. Since
then a dreadful plague, which occurred in 1830-31,
and destroyed three-fourths of the inhabitants of
Gheelaun, occasioned the total depopulation of the
town, as those who did not escape to the neigh
bouring mountains perished ; and the succeeding
year, though some of the survivors returned, their
number did not much exceed a thousand. From
that year Resht may be said to have recommenced
its existence as a commercial city, and it has since
been rapidly increasing in importance and prospe
rity. At present it contains about 20,000 inhabit
ants, and its bazars are again becoming the seat of

94 STYLE OF THE BUILDINGS.
an active trade. These generally present nothing
striking : they are badly paved, badly roofed, and in
some parts are in ruins ; yet here and there may be
seen a goodly row of shops, among which those of
dealers in British manufactures, druggists, and con
fectioners, are the most conspicuous. I was told
that there were in all about two hundred, but from
my own observation I should think that this esti
mate might be nearly doubled. An Eastern bazar
is composed of long rows of open stalls or shops,
where the vender sits in the midst of his wares ;
and behind each stall is a small storehouse. At
night the shops are closed with shutters ; and a few
men are placed in the passages to guard against
robbers. A couple of months after we left Resht we heard
that four caravanserais, part of the bazar, and a
considerable quantity of silk and other property, had
been destroyed by fire ; but the various statements
of the damage differed so widely that no correct
estimate could be made of its extent.
There are no antiquities, ruins, or public buildings
of any kind to attract attention. The houses are in
general built of wood and brick, often with an
upper story, and covered with a widely projecting
roof of red tiles, which give a certain European
and picturesque appearance to the place. There
are many mosques, but nearly all of them small
buildings, having each a short minaret, sometimes
rising from the roof, and sometimes standing a little
apart from the structure.
Resht is the residence of a Royal Prince, son of

REVENUE.

95

Fath Allee Shah, Yaiyah Meerza, for whose main
tenance the revenue of a few villages is appro
priated; but he has nothing whatever to do with the
administration of affairs, and keeps no state, living
quietly and retired, and amusing himself with his
harem, his hounds, and his hawks.
The revenue which Government derives from the
custom-house here is about 43,000 tomauns ; be
sides this, there is a tax on shops, but the amount is
trifling. The principal article of commerce in Gheelaun is
silk, the production of which is now almost entirely
confined to this province. Mauzunderoon yields
comparatively little ; as, during the reign of Nadir
Shah, the inhabitants, unable to endure the rapacity
and oppression of the local governors, destroyed
their mulberry plantations. Considering the size of
Gheelaun and its thin population, the production of

96 ACCOUNT OF THE SILK-WORM.
this valuable article is important ; and, in spite of
various disadvantages arising from a vicious adminis
tration, the clearing of the forest advances yearly to
give place to fresh plantations of the mulberry.
The province is one of the richest in the kingdom,
and deserves the peculiar care and attention of
Government, though little seems to be bestowed
on it.
The management of the worm is conducted in a
very simple and primitive manner ; and it may not
be uninteresting to describe the process. For the
following account I am indebted, in a great degree,
to a paper, published in the Revue de I'Orient, by
M. Chodzko, late Russian consul at Resht.
About the commencement of April the bags, in
which the eggs are preserved during the winter, are
exposed to a moderate heat in some shady corner of
the house ; in general, however, the women carry
them under their arms, as the warmest part of the
body. The eggs are never exposed to the full heat
of the sun, which would scorch and destroy them,
and animal heat is preferred. The young worms are
placed in any spare pots or pans which will suffice to
hold them, and are fed with the leaves of the mul
berry chopped into small pieces : if the spring happen
to be late, and the worms are hatched before the
mulberry is in leaf, the leaves of the coriander are
substituted. The worms live for about forty days,
during which period they become torpid, or, as the
natives say, go to sleep four times; each sleep
endures about two days, and the interval between is
from seven to ten days. When the insects awake from

ACCOUNT OF THE SILK-WORM, 97
their first torpidity, they are removed. from the pans
in which they have been kept, and are placed in the
ti lam bar.
From this period they are fed with mulberry-
leaves, whole branches being placed on the bed on
which the worm is reared : their voracity is extra
ordinary, and after each sleep they become more and
more ravenous.
The tilambar is a shed formed of nine or ten
trunks of trees stripped of their branches, and driven
into the earth in the form of an oblong square.
These posts support a roof composed of the branches
of trees thatched with rice-straw : the eaves project
several feet from the walls, as a protection against
the sun and rain. Six or seven feet from the ground,
round the shed, a scaffolding about two feet wide is
erected, on which the proprietor walks to feed the
insects ; and, at a little lower level, the whole cen
tre is occupied by a platform which serves as the bed
where they remain while they exist as worms. The
scaffolding encircling the bed is called the bridge ;
from which a curtain of rice-straw is suspend
ed, joining the platform, to protect the silk- worms
from wind. This, with a ladder to ascend the
bridge, completes a tilambar. The walls of the shed
are composed of reeds, and have two openings ; one
of which serves as a door, and the other, on the
opposite side, affords the means of ventilation. If
the weather happen to be cold, — which, however, is
rarely the case, — the place is heated artificially.
The ordinary dimensions of a tilambar are about
twenty feet long, seventeen or eighteen broad, and
H

98 ACCOUNT OF THE SILK-WORM.
thirteen high: the bed is some five feet from the
ground. On being removed to the tilambar, the silk-worms
are placed on a litter of the green branches of the
mulberry ; and, when the leaves are devoured, fresh
boughs are given them without removing the old
ones. The bed is not cleansed until it is absolutely
necessary, from the collection of old branches, and
from the strong effluvium arising from the ordure
and the worms which have died. The rubbish is
then removed from beneath, and the live worms
which fall during the process are carefully replaced.
At first, one man usually suffices for the manage
ment of a tilambar ; he goes into the plantations,
cuts the branches, and, mounting the bridge, distri
butes them to the worms ; but after the last sleep
the operation becomes more serious, and three or
four hands — generally the wife and children of the
proprietor, who is himself the manager, — hardly
suffice to supply the insects, their demand for food
is so great. In wet weather no care whatever is
taken to dry the leaves, and consequently sometimes
a moiety of the worms sicken and die.
At the expiration of about forty days the worms
become of a transparent hue, cease to eat, and ex
hibit a desire to climb the boughs to form their
cocoons. This is a season of universal jubilee to the
peasantry of Gheelaun, for now their labour ceases.
Indeed, they have every reason to rejoice, as in this
damp and hot climate the gathering of the branches
is no ordinary toil, and often occasions deadly fevers.
Boughs of the elm, alder, and other trees, the leaves

ACCOUNT OF THE SILK- WORM. 99
of which the worms never eat, are now placed upright
in the bed, their upper extremities being fastened to
the cross-beams in the roof, when the insects ascend
and begin to spin. The ladder is then taken away,
the shed is closed, and all access forbidden during
ten days. At the end of this time the proprietor,
accompanied by his family and the tax-gatherer,
who must be present, enters the tilambar, and,
having removed the boughs with which the place
is encumbered, they behold the entire roof covered
with the beautiful white and yellow cocoons. The
tax is levied according to the size of the bed ; that
is, for every twenty measures from the elbow of the
proprietor to the tip of his middle-finger is paid
three-quarters of a maun shahee of the raw silk :
thus the tax, having reference to the produce may
be either heavy or light, according to the favourable
ness of the season. The total revenue on the pro
duction of silk in Gheelaun amounts to between
140,000 and 150,000 tomauns (70,000/. and 75,000/.)
A large tilambar will yield about four mauns shahee
(fifty-two pounds) of good silk.
The cocoons are now gathered and given to the
women. Those which are to be wound off are either
exposed to the sun, or immersed in boiling water,
to destroy the chrysalis. Those destined for the
reproduction of the species are put into pans made
for the purpose, and placed in a cool part of the
house, where in process of time the moth starts
into life.
A harmless snake, the coluber aquaticus, is pro
cured from the rivers and placed in each tilambar
H 2

100 ACCOUNT OF THE SILK-WORM.
as a tutelar deity. If it does not remain there
voluntarily, it is confined in a cage ; though I was
assured it seldom seeks to leave the place, but
ranges about it at large, most probably destroying
the vermin which might injure the worms. The pro
prietor regards the reptile with such reverence, that,
if perchance he finds it asleep, he will not venture
to awaken it : he believes that a good or bad rac-
colta depends entirely on its favour ; and that, if he
should not be able to procure one for his tilambar,
the silk will either be coarse, or the worms die, or
no purchaser be found. If a man is at enmity with
another, the greatest injury rfe can inflict on him is
to kill his snake.
The size of the reel on which the cocoons are
wound off is larger than that used for the silk
usually imported into England from other countries ;
consequently it cannot be wound by our ordinary
machines, and is less valuable than it would other
wise be. Attempts have been made to persuade
the Gheelaunees to use a reel of the proper dimen
sions ; the advantages of their so doing have been
explained, and measures of the proper size have
been given to them, hitherto, however, with little
success. They usually offer two objections : the
first is, that their forefathers have from time im
memorial used the same reel, and why, therefore,
should they presume to change it? The other is,
that the lesser reel would occupy more time, which
they could not afford, as the country is thinly popu
lated and all hands fully employed. To obviate this,
Mr. A. constructed a simple machine, consisting of

QUALITIES OF THE SILK. 101
a reel of the proper dimensions with two wheels to
multiply the motion, to the extent that each turn
of the handle would give four evolutions of the
reel, and would wind off as much silk as about three
turns of the larger reel. It remains to be seen
whether the saving of labour, the higher price
offered, and the greater demand, will induce them
to forego their prejudices and adopt this new reel.
Last year, indeed, some two hundred mauns shahee
were wound off on short reels; but they were of
irregular measures, and thus the trial was abortive.
An experienced rearer of the silk-worm will, by
long habit, decide without hesitation which of the
cocoons will produce the finest quality of silk ; there
are some twelve different sorts of them, distin
guished by their respective names. The districts
of Fomen, Resht, and Lahijan are said to produce
the best silk in Gheelaun ; some of which will bear
comparison with the finest from Broussa. There is
also a small quantity of the most beautiful quality
equal to the best Italian or Chinese silk ; it is not;
however, confined to any particular district, but is
found and sold among that of ordinary quality. Out
of the whole produce of the province, something
above 100,000 mauns shahee, there may be about
150 of this silk. A Greek mercantile house pur
chased this year about 12,000 mauns shahee, out of
which was picked three packages of this superior
quality. Were it collected and sold separately, it
would be worth some twenty tomauns per maun
shahee ; while that of ordinary quality is only worth
from ten to fourteen tomauns. The finest of this

102 MULBERRY PLANTATIONS.
latter description sells at from fourteen to eighteen
tomauns, the variations in price being regulated by
the season and the demand.
Mulberry plantations meet the eye at every turn
throughout Gheelaun. The tree is raised from seed
in the following manner : — The fruit is allowed to
ripen on the branches till it falls of itself, when it
is crushed into a pulp, and portions put into holes
in the earth four inches deep. The superfluous
plants are thinned out, so as to leave the rest about
three feet apart. Some five or six years are
necessary before the leaves can be gathered from
the young tree without damaging it. Both the
black and white mulberry are employed in the plan
tations, which are only allowed to grow a little
above the ordinary height of a man, for the conve
nience of gathering the leaves ; the stems are
stripped of their shoots, but a head is encouraged.
The closeness of the trees, and the shade which one
affords the other, render the leaves very tender. The
trees are carefully pruned every spring, the shoots
of the year alone affording the nutriment on which
the worms thrive well : the leaves of the old
branches are hard and indigestible, and the in
equalities of the bark wound the insects.
The annual raccolta in Gheelaun amounts in a
moderate season to something more than 100,000
mauns shahee (1,300,000 lbs.) of good silk, in addi
tion to a great portion of waste or of inferior kind,
the quantity of which is not ascertained. Some
say that it is about half, and some that it is fully as
much as the fine.

ANNUAL AMOUNT OF SILK. 103
According to M. Chodzko, the exportation of silk
from Gheelaun in 1839 and 1840 was as follows:
1839. 1840.
To Russia . . Mauns Shahee 10,134 9,949
To England .... 29,178 47,568
To Baghdad .... 3,504 7,750
To the interior of Persia . . 7,638 6,432

Mauns Shahee 50,454 71,699
Add to these sums 40,000 mauns shahee em
ployed in the manufactures of Gheelaun and Mau
zunderoon, and the average of the two years will
give about 100,000 mauns shahee. All persons,
however, agree that the rearing of the silk- worm has
been yearly on the increase, so that the present pro
duce will most probably exceed the above average.
M. Chodzko has made a slight mistake in saying
that so much is exported " to England ;" it should
have been " to Constantinople," whence the silk is
dispersed over Europe. I was informed by the
gentleman who purchases for the Greek house
before alluded to, that more than half of what he
sends out of Gheelaun goes to France, and the
remainder to England; but that last year the portion
which was shipped to England, being unsold there,
was afterwards exported to France.
This season the raccolta had not been plentiful,
as the unusual heat which prevailed during the
spring weakened or destroyed a great quantity of
the silk-worms.
The silk for exportation is packed in "ferdehs"
or ballots, each supposed to contain six mauns

104 MANNER OF EXPORTATION.
shahee. For every bale sent by way of Tabreez to
Constantinople or the interior, a duty of one tomaun
and a half is paid here, but on those shipped to
Russia through Enzellee three tomauns are levied.
The Russians, however, embale from seven to nine
mauns shahee instead of the usual six, and, when the
customer complains, they silence him by threatening
to take their silk to Tabreez and pay the duty there ;
which would be so much out of his pocket, as he
farms the duty at a fixed price, the excess above
which is for his own profit.
It was now the 5th of December : the weather
had been lovely since the 1 st ; yet, as we expected
the rains would soon commence in good earnest, we
had been making the most of our time in paying
visits to the different influential people of the place,
and were beginning to feel more at leisure. In the
evening we went to a bath, which was obtained
with very little difficulty ; the only stipulation being
that we should' come, if possible,, after dark. Turk
ish aud Persian baths have been so often described
that there needs no repetition here ; suffice it to say,
that my skin, being somewhat less tough than that
of the generality of Persians, was completely scrub
bed off in many places, much to my subsequent
inconvenience. The following day we went with a sportsman of
the country to shoot pheasants in the direction of
the mountains. We had no proper dogs ; and the
forest and underwood were so dense, that, though
we put up about a dozen pheasants, two alone were
seen and killed — we merely heard the remainder.

PHEASANT SHOOTING. 105
I was consigning one of the dead birds to my game-
bag, when the sportsman came to me, and gravely
represented, that, if I wished for the least further
sport, I should allow him to give the dog the foot of
the pheasant. We saw several snipes, and one quail,
which my companion killed. During the whole
time we were wading in deep clay and water,
through a terribly stiff" cover of brambles, alders,
and fern ; the work was most fatiguing, and we
soon returned home, thinking that the sport by no
means compensated us for the trouble. There are
said to be plenty of pheasants, but without several
good dogs success is hopeless in such jungle. A
considerable number are brought into Resht by the
natives, who find out the trees where the birds
roost, and, going there after sunset, knock them
down with long sticks ; some, however, though
comparatively few, are killed with shot. In the
breeding season the native sportsman ties a common
hen to a tree in the jungle, and, concealing himself
among the bushes, pulls occasionally a long string
attached to the bird's leg to make it flutter ; the
cock pheasants, if there be any in the neighbour
hood, are soon attracted to the spot, and shot by
the fowler from his retreat.
To-day a kind of sirocco blew, which they say is
often felt here, though more particularly during the
hot summer months, when it is much dreaded.
While it continues, people are afraid to light fires
in their wooden houses, as everything becomes as
dry as tinder and disposed to ignition. They also
carefully cover up their silk, and close the store-

106 A WILD beast!
houses and bazars where it is kept, as they say this
wind renders it brittle.
Our little spaniel for several nights had been
continually barking and growling ; and I thought,
moreover, I heard a crunching noise, as of some
animal eating bones. I quietly opened the win
dow, and by the light of the moon perceived a thin
lank-looking beast, with a long bushy tail, diligently
devouring some offal. The moment it perceived
me it scampered off; and I supposed it to have been
some wild beast, probably a jackal, as I knew they
were in the habit of coming into the town, having
heard their screaming every night. This evening
we determined to solve our doubts regarding the
beast, and waited a long time without hearing a
sound. At last a slight, noise was perceived, and,
seizing our guns, we both hastened to the window.
The moon shone brightly, but one side of the garden
was thrown into deep shade by a high wall. We
listened, and presently heard a low, rustling noise,
proceeding from a dark corner among the orange-
trees, and felt convinced the beast was there. I
could not, however, perceive anything moving; so,
jumping from the window, I advanced nearer, pre
pared to take a shot, if the animal ran. At last
something moved, and I was on the point of firing,
when I was arrested by a tremulous voice, exclaim
ing, "Sahib ! sahib! cheemee koneed?" (Sir,sir, what
are you doing?") and one of our servants, who was
afflicted with a longing after other men's oranges,
and was afraid to discover himself until he saw clearly
that I was going to fire into the bush, issued forth as

THE JACKAL. 107
pale as death, and nearly frightened out of his wits.
Had he remained silent two minutes more, I might
have shot him. Some hours afterwards, we were
told that the beast was in the garden ; and once
more I crept cautiously to the window. At first
nothing was visible ; but, in a few minutes, an ani
mal, which I recognised as the same I had before
seen, slowly crossed a narrow streak of moonlight,
and the next moment was lost again in the impene
trable shade of the wall and orange-trees. I, how
ever, took a chance-shot in the direction in which
it had disappeared, and, a loud howl proclaimed my
success, " Barikellah ! barikellah !" shouted the ser
vants, who had been under the verandah, watching
the scene. We all rushed forward to the spot, and
found the supposed wild beast, now in the agonies
of death, to be an unfortunate dog, who had wan
dered from some neighbouring house in search of a
supper ! — We returned in silence, and I afterwards
heard that the servants intended to distribute bread
to the poor, that my soul might be relieved from the
consequences of my mistake ; for they believe that,
if any one kills a harmless animal without cause, he
will be obliged in the next world to pay a penalty
of jewels sufficient to fill its skin.
Contrary to all expectation, the weather still con
tinued beautifully fine ; and, as the jackals made a
prodigious din every night, a further continuance of
it was predicted. These animals are said only Jo cry
in fair weather, or when it is about to be so : cer
tainly, while we were at Resht, there was no lack of
howling every night ; and, after the first day, there

108 FORTUNATE AND UNFORTUNATE DAYS.
was no rain. We remained at home writing during
the day, and towards evening we took a ride along
one of the very few practicable roads in the -vicinity
of Resht ; this, however, continued but for about
two miles, when it became a miserable track, only a
few degrees better than that of Peeree Bazar.
At night there was an eclipse of the moon, and all
the pots, pans, and other sonorous instruments which
could be found in Gheelaun, were in requisition, to
frighten away the beast which was supposed to be
devouring the planet. A great deal of gunpowder
was also expended ; and one might easily have ima
gined that the town was attacked. Presently our
cook, Ismael, commenced a tremendous assault upon
a large saucepan ; and the other servants discharged
their pistols and rifles, much to the assistance of the
good cause. At. last, after having continued this
din for upwards of two hours, the inhabitants retired
to rest triumphant, as the beast was effectually
alarmed, and had left the moon precisely as he had
found it — round, and bright as ever !
On the 10th, we were again visited by Hadgee
Ismael, the Haukim, who, having heard that we were
going to leave Resht on the morrow, said it was not
a lucky day, and that we ought not to proceed. The
Persians think that Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Fri
days are unlucky, but that the others are fortunate ;
Thursday and Sunday peculiarly so. The Hadgee
was accompanied, as usual, by several merchants, his
friends ; and being himself a considerable silk pro
prietor, Mr. A. exhibited to him the reel he had
constructed for winding off the silk on the proper

OBJECTIONS TO MR. A.'S IMPROVED REEL. 109
measure. It was clumsily made, but sufficed to show,
that, if adopted, it would effect a saving both of time
and labour, besides rendering the silk more valuable.
They raised all sorts of ridiculous objections, and
recurred to the old story of " their fathers before
them" — that hitherto they had got on very well, and
were afraid of losing, by innovations on old customs.
Then they objected to the expense of the new ma
chines — a few shillings apiece : in short, when either
their money or their prejudices are concerned, all at
tempts at amelioration seem hopeless, as these people
are avaricious and ignorant to the last degree. They
departed, however, with vague promises to see what
could be done.
The following day was spent in preparations for
departure.

110

CHAPTER VII.
A Fortunate Day. — Departure from Resht  Nature of the
Country  The Sefeed-rood. — Ferry. — Kesoun. — Road to
Lahijan. — Arrival. — My White Hat. — Mahomed Allee Khan.
— Lahijan. — Regarding Estimates of Population. — Revenue. —
Visit the Governor. — Leave Lahijan. — Old Causeway. —
Seenery. — Arrival at Langarood  Meer Aboo Talib Khan's
Summer-house. — Revenue. — Start for the Sefeed-rood. — The
Langarood River. — Wild Fowl. — Fish. — Wild Duck Catchers.
— A Predicament. — Reach the Sefeed-rood. — Our Quarters. —
The Colony of Russian Fishermen. — Particulars of the Fishery.
— Caviare. — Dried Fish. — Isinglass. — Rent of the Fishery. —
Geography of the Coast. — Rising and Falling of the Caspian. —
Picturesque Bridge. — Remains of Elton's Ship. — Boys fishing.
The morning of the 12th December was misty
and damp, and we apprehended rain : Hadgee Mo
hamed Allee, however, who came to bid us good
bye, declared the weather unexceptionable ; and, as
the day was fortunate, he pronounced authorita
tively that there would not be rain.
After a few delays we started, about eleven o'clock.
Outside the town we forded the river Mungodeh,
and commenced our march on a tolerably good piece
of road. We had engaged a guide, who had pro
mised to take us by a dry and generally unfrequented
path through the forest, but, on inquiry for him,
he was nowhere to be found ; so that we were obliged

THE SEFEED-ROOD. Ill
to press into our service a peasant whom we over
took, but who knew no other than the regular cara
van road to Mauzunderoon. This by degrees be
came worse and worse, and, with the exception of a
dry bit here and there, proved little better than that
to Peeree Bazar.
We travelled about a fursuck and a half through
a swampy forest, with a thick underwood of brambles,
alders, and a variety of climbing plants, among which
I observed the wild hop, occasionally varied with a
mile or two of mulberry plantation, when we crossed
a small rivulet called the Nooreh, some five yards
broad, and now only a few inches deep. It has not
the appearance of ever becoming a large stream ;
though close to where we forded it was a high
bridge of one arch, which, however, did not seem to
be much used, being overgrown with rank vegeta
tion. A fursuck further brought us to the village
of Koochee Isfahaun, the property of the Haukim
of Resht. The houses are scattered about in the
forest ; and all that was visible was the bazar, con
sisting of two small rows of shops, between which
the road passes.
Continuing onwards over a slightly improved path,
we arrived on the banks of the Sefeed-rood at about
an hour before sunset. The river at this season is
never very large, and, owing to the late dry weather,
was not so full as usual ; still it was too deep and
rapid to ford, and at least one hundred yards across.
The bank on which we stood was abrupt; on the
other side it was low, and covered with fragments of
rocks and trees, marking the course of the wide

112 KESOUN.
and rapid torrent which the river becomes in the
spring. The village of Reshtabad is situated a short dis
tance from the river, though not visible from its
banks, being concealed among the trees. Near the
water's edge were a couple of small cottages : here a
ferryman resided, in whose boat our horses were em
barked, five or six at a time ; and, when they had all
been conveyed across, we ourselves followed. By
the aid of long poles the boatmen push up the side
of the stream sixty or seventy yards, and then, launch
ing out into the current, are carried down about
the same distance before they can reach the shallow
water on the other side, thus managing to land
nearly opposite the point whence they started.
We had intended to have halted at Reshtabad,
but finding the ferry-boat ready, and an hour of day
light still remaining, we thought it better to cross
the river this evening, than to wait till the next
morning. Remounting on the other side, we rode a few hun
dred yards to a row of shops, like those at Koochee
Isfahaun, serving as a bazar to the village of Kesoun.
Nothing could be seen of the houses, and the only
indications of their existence in the vicinity were a
few wreaths of smoke curling above the surround
ing forest. We soon found very tolerable lodgings
in a small house ; but owing to the badness of the
road, and the intervening river, our baggage did not
arrive, so that we had to pass the night on the bare
floor, where the abundance of vermin of all sorts
prevented our obtaining the least repose.

ROAD TO LAHIJAN. 113
We rose as soon as it was light ; and, feeling un-
refreshed and feverish, took our guns, and strolled
into the forest, with the double object of killing a
pheasant, and invigorating ourselves by the morning
air. We had no sport ; and as it was foggy, and a
heavy dew had fallen in the night, we got nothing.
but a thorough wetting from the leaves of the trees,
and a solitary woodcock, which my friend shot.
Two hours after breakfast our baggage arrived,
and we immediately proceeded on the road to Lahijan.
This, as usual, lay through alternations of natural
forest, mulberry plantations, and rice-fields, and,
though at first very bad, gradually became better
as we advanced : the country also seemed to im
prove, being more open, and not such a continual
swamp as heretofore.
Having travelled about a fursuck, we crossed two
small streams, a few hundred yards distant from each
other, by a couple of single-arched bridges built of
brick. From this point the road became good and
exceedingly picturesque ; sometimes hedged in on
either side by a magnificent growth of box, which
chiefly composed the underwood of the forest, and
sometimes opening on a beautiful landscape of cot
tages, lawns, and cultivation. Another fursuck brought
us to the river Shimerood, which, flowing from the
mountains, enters the Sefeed-rood near its mouth.
We crossed the Shimerood, over a lofty, pointed
bridge, built of brick, and seemingly in good repair,
having two large centre arches, and two smaller
ones on each side The river flows over a gravelly
bed ; and though at this season only about sixty

114 ARRIVAL.
yards broad, and fordable in many places, bears the
appearance of becoming a rapid torrent in the spring.
For two or three miles we now traversed a more
open country, covered with brambles and fern, with
out any trees, and arrived at another bridge of four
arches, similar to that just mentioned, across the
river flowing to Langarood, which, I believe, is also
called by that name. It is about the same size as
the Shimerood, and resembles it in general appear
ance. Lahijan, about three fursucks (twelve miles)
from Kesoun, is situated on the eastern bank, where
we were met by the man whom we had sent forward
to procure quarters, and who conducted us to them.
On arriving, I hastened to make a sketch of the
place ; but the houses were so buried in the trees,
that I could only get a glimpse of one or two roofs.
The scenery around the town is very fine : the moun
tains, clothed with forest in all the varied beauty of
autumnal colouring, rose, one behind the other, in
misty succession ; the distant back-ground being
formed by the highest of the range, whose peaks,
covered with snow, were half lost in the clouds. I
took a hasty sketch from the extremity of a grassy
common, and then, at the suggestion of some heavy
drops of rain, made the best of my way back to
our lodgings, where I arrived just as our baggage
came up.
I found Meerza Mohamed Allee Khan, the Go
vernor, and several of his friends, with my companion.
They were all in profound astonishment at a broad-
brimmed, grey felt hat which I wore ; and previous
to my coming into the room, seeing me from the

MOHAMED ALLEE KHAN. 115
window near the baggage, had been making in
quiries of Mr. A. what manner of man he had for a
muleteer, and whether the thing on his head was a
hat ? A Moollah, however, who was with them, and
who had seen us at Resht, told them that it was the
other Sahib. " Mashallah ! Mashallah !" they ex
claimed, " wonderful Sahib — wonderful hat does he
wear ! "
As soon as they had all departed, the Khan sent
us a capital dinner ; after which we went to bed
and slept soundly, not being annoyed by our im
placable enemies, the fleas.
In the morning we received a visit from the Go
vernor, who seemed rather a dull person, though
very polite and civil. He asked a great many ques
tions regarding the Feramoosh Khoneh, as they call
the Freemasons' Hall in London, which is a com
plete mystery to all the Persians who have heard of
it. Very often the first question we have been
asked is, " What do they do at the Feramoosh
Khoneh? What is it?" They generally believe
it to be a most wonderful place, where a man may
acquire in one day the wisdom of a thousand years
of study ; but every one has his own peculiar con
jectures concerning it. Some of the Persians who
went to England became freemasons; and their
friends complain that they will not tell what they
saw at the hall, and cannot conceive why they
should all be so uncommunicative.
On leaving us the Khan sent a present of several
large trays of sweetmeats, which were devoured
by our servants in a most incredible manner. I 2

116 REGARDING ESTIMATES OF POPULATION.
Lahijan is a very pleasantly-situated town, and,
the country being more open and dry than in the
vicinity of Resht, the climate is more healthy ; and
I was told that in case of sickness people often
remove hither for the change of air. I saw nothing
of the bazars, as during the greater part of our
short stay it was raining, and the remainder of our
time was fully occupied. That part of the town
which we saw on entering consisted of well-built
solid brick houses, many having upper stories.
They say that the number of inhabitants is about
three thousand, though I may remark, once for all,
that these estimates of population are not to be
considered as established facts : they may some
times be near the truth, but where there are no
accounts or registers kept, and where the female
part of the community are seldom seen abroad, all
must necessarily be conjecture. Whenever I have
noted the amount of population in a place, it has
not been a mere guess of my own, but a conclusion
formed from the various estimates of those of whom
I have inquired on the subject. It is seldom,
however, that they know anything of the matter ;
though they always make a point of not con
fessing ignorance, and usually give such a reply
as they think will please or coincide most with
the ideas of the inquirer. Thus, you ask a Per
sian what is the population of a place : very often
he answers, "Busseeor est," (it is many) ; showing
pretty clearly that he knows nothing about it.
On pressing him more closely he will perhaps
reply, "It is three thousand." "Oh!" you say,

LEAVE LAHIJAN. 117
" that is very little for a place like this ; there
must surely be more." " Belli, belli," (Certainly,)
is the answer ; " there must be altogether six thou
sand :" and turning to any one who may be stand
ing near, " See how the Sahib knows everything
better than even we ourselves, Mashallah ! " Thus,
at your suggestion, immediately doubling the
amount, with as little hesitation as he would have
halved it had you observed that you thought it
too large.
The revenue of the district of Lahijan amounts
to about 40,000 tomauns, including the customs of
the town, some 5,300 tomauns.
About two o'clock we mounted our horses and
proceeded to take leave of the Governor, whom
we found seated in a lofty divan-khoneh, open,
and supported in front by two square wooden
pillars tapering towards the top and ornamented
with a nondescript sort of capital ; a style of ar
chitecture to be met with in almost every audience-
hall of these provinces. We remained but a few
minutes, and then departed for Langarood in a
drizzling rain.
The road lay over the remains of an old stone
causeway, which I took to be the first we had
seen of the famous work of Shah Abbas. The
pavement was composed of square blocks of stone,
and large boulders, broken up and interspersed with
deep holes full of mud, forming a path most painful
and injurious to the horses, and which in any other
country would have been deemed perfectly imprac
ticable.

118" ARRIVAL AT LANGAROOD.
Had the weather been fine, we should have been
delighted with the scenery. The hills rose abruptly
on our right, intersected by deep ravines, and co
vered with forest from which occasionally peeped
forth grey masses of stone. Here we came upon
a rivulet, now dashing and foaming in cascades
over the disjointed rocks ; now gliding silently amid
the dark and luxuriant vegetation, which almost
concealed it from the view : and there in some
sequestered nook stood an old Imaumzadeh, its
curious pinnacled roof overgrown with moss, and
half-buried among the trees.
After travelling along the foot of the mountains
for about eight miles, we turned towards the sea,
over a flat country cleared for the cultivation of
rice. The road still continued in the shape of a
causeway through the swamps ; but it had been
repaired in many places, and a few hundred yards
from Langarood had been substantially recon
structed with stones and brick.
The evening had now closed ; and after a wet
and tedious ride we entered Langarood, and were
conducted to a small house which had been cleared
for our reception. We had scarcely dismounted
when the Governor, Meerza Summud Khan, came
to pay us a visit of welcome. He had very little
to say for himself, save that he hoped we should
be comfortable — that the town was now our own,
and we might do with it as we felt most inclined —
that between his property and ours there was no
difference ; in short, he was nothing more than out
most humble servant, and only asked for a corner

MEER ABOO TALIB KHAN'S SUMMER-HOUSE. 119
where he might sit and enjoy the sunshine of our
favour. All this was very cheerful, and we re
quested that out of so much wealth a little wood
might be forthcoming to light a fire, as we were
wet and shivering. There appeared, however, to
be some little difficulty in procuring any, though
the place was situated in a forest ; at last, how
ever, it did come, and the Khan departed amid
fresh protestations of regard, which appeared shortly
afterwards in the more substantial form of dinner
and a present of sweetmeats.
Langarood is one of the most picturesque towns
I ever saw, and, were there a drier climate and a
less swampy country around it, would be a de
lightful residence. Unfortunately this is the most
unhealthy spot in all Gheelaun ; the marshes which
surround it, combined with the dreadful heats of
summer, render it at that season almost unin
habitable, and the richer people retire to Lahijan
or the neighbouring mountains. In Hanway's time
it was the same ; and he remarks, that as Gheelaun
was accounted the sink of Persia, so Langarood
was considered the sink of Gheelaun. The bazars
are neither extensive nor attractive, consisting of
a few rows of wretched sheds, and the street in
which they stand being deep in mud. There are,
however, some excellent well-built brick houses,
and among the trees stands conspicuous a circular
summer-house, of three stories high, surmounted
by a dome, belonging to Meer Aboo Talib Khan,
the lessee of the fisheries of Enzellee and the
Sefeed-rood : it is of wood, and was constructed

120 REVENUE.
by the Russians in his employ. At this time it
was undergoing some repairs. The interior was
beautifully decorated with those brilliant paintings
of wreaths and bouquets of flowers in which the
Persians so much excel, and the windows were
tastefully formed in fancy patterns of stained glass.
We could not see the uppermost room, as the ladies
had taken refuge there while the workmen were
employed in the lower apartments.
The river of Langarood is about thirty yards
broad, and is crossed by two bridges; one a very
lofty and curious old brick structure with two
large pointed arches, and the other merely of
wood. The banks are shaded by fine forest-trees,
or lined with gardens and enlivened by many really
elegant houses ; while the number of small boats
continually passing and repassing, the people on
the quay loading and unloading the larger ones
employed between the coast and the, town, give
animation to a scene which, as far as the picturesque
is concerned, I have rarely seen equalled.
The revenue derived from the custom-house at
Langarood is said to amount to between 1500 and
2000 tomauns. Some Russian goods are brought
here direct from Astrachan, and a considerable
quantity of rice from Mauzunderoon, the crops not
having been very abundant in Gheelaun during the
last few years.
We wished much to have seen the fishery of the
sturgeon at the Sefeed-rood, and, when at Resht,
had been told that the best way was to go by water
from this place; though we found afterwards that we

THE LANGAROOD RIVER. 121
should have saved both time and trouble by going
from Resht direct to the mouth of the river, and
thence to Lahijan or Langarood. After breakfast,
having made the necessary arrangements for staying
a day there, our party embarked in four small flat-
bottomed canoes, each managed by two men ; and, at
about one o'clock in the afternoon, we left Langa
rood and proceeded down the stream. We carried
with us our guns, bedding, and cooking apparatus ;
and were accompanied by our Meerza, the cook,
two servants, and the man who had been sent with
us by Mohamed Ameen Khan from Resht as our
Mehmandar. The river was low, and at this season there is no
perceptible current. The mouth near the sea is
almost choked up by a sandbank, which acts as a
dam, and always keeps the water in the bed up to a
certain level : what flows into the sea and the neigh
bouring swamps, or is exhausted by evaporation, is
supplied by the stream from the mountains. The
river has the appearance of a broad and almost
stagnant ditch, except in the spring, when the water
rises about five feet above the winter level. For a
mile from the town the banks are wooded, and
dotted with cottages ; these gradually disappear, and
are succeeded by a flat swampy country covered with
high reeds and bulrushes. We started north, but
by degrees turned due east till within a short dis
tance of the sea, when the stream is divided into
two branches, one flowing towards the sandbank at
its mouth, and the other turning into an extensive
moordaub (dead water) formed in the same manner

122 WILD DUCK CATCHERS.
as the lake of Enzellee, and separated from the sea
by a long narrow strip of sand. This is the channel
used by boats from the town ; they cross part of the
moordaub, and find their way into the sea through
an opening in the bank where there is a sufficient
depth of water. We had been paddling for two
hours before we reached this point, and the distance
was about two fursucks. Having entered the lake,
we proceeded across it in a northerly direction.
Quantities of wild fowl were sporting among its
reedy islands, — swans, wild geese, ducks, widgeon,
and pelicans ; but we were unable to approach any
of them. We passed several boats, the owners of
which were busily employed in fishing. One man
had filled his skiff with four different kinds of fish :
some enormous carp (called " hapoor"), bream,
sefeed-mahee, and a kind of fish I had never before
seen, called the " sevideh ;" it was long, dark-blue
on the back, and covered with silvery scales on the
belly ; no spots ; the snout was rather- pointed, and
its jaws furnished with most formidable rows of
teeth. After crossing the moordaub, which in general is
not more than two feet deep, we entered a narrow
ditch varying from three to six feet, and bordered
by reeds between eighteen and twenty feet high.
Along this we continued for some miles, when we
came to a series of ponds divided by banks of reeds;
among which were several small huts belonging to
the wild-fowl catchers, whose nets were suspended
in every direction, and the decoy-birds near them
kept up a continual quacking. Numbers of ducks

A PREDICAMENT. 123
were flying round about, though they were cautious
not to approach too near our boats.
We now arrived at a narrow causeway, though
whither it led was by no means clear ; over this we
hauled our boats, and, having launched them again
on the other side, entered a second large moordaub
just as the sun disappeared behind the mountains.
After paddling about an hour and a half, we entered
another reedy ditch, and the boatmen declared that
they had lost their way ; we turned back, and after
a great deal of shouting came upon the hut of one
of the duck-catchers, from whom having inquired
the direction we resumed our progress. We were
now assured that the Sefeed-rood was not far dis
tant, and were congratulating ourselves on the pro
spect of a speedy release from our cramped position
in the bottom of the narrow canoes, when we stuck
fast in the mud, and our guides said that most pro
bably the ditch along which we had been paddling
was quite dry a little further on, and they did not
know how we could proceed. This intelligence was
by no means agreeable : the night was dark, the air
cold, and a heavy dew was falling ; a wide swamp
was on every side of us ; and, to add to the comfort
of passing a night in such a situation, the nummuds
on which we were sitting were beginning to be
soaked through by the leaking of the boat. After
many ineffectual efforts at moving forwards, the men
got out and with some difficulty dragged the canoes
a short distance, when to our great relief a sufficient
depth of water was found to float them, and a few
hundred yards more brought us to a small fall of

124 THE COLONY OF RUSSIAN FISHERMEN.
about four feet into the Sefeed-rood. Here we
were obliged to disembark while the boats were let
down, which was soon done ; and a quarter of an hour
afterwards we reached our destination. We were
very kindly received by the Russian fishermen, who
conducted us to a lodging, and having supplied us
with caviare, fresh bread, butter, and other necessa
ries, left us to ourselves till the next morning.
We found our apartment was the lower chamber
of a tall wooden building erected by the Russians
for their employer, Meer Aboo Talib Khan ; it con
sisted of four stories, and commanded an extensive
view of the surrounding country. The lower com
partment was divided into two small rooms, one of
which we occupied ; it had five windows, a large
Russian stove in one corner, and was lined with
canvas painted in stripes of green, blue, and white ;
but though the embellishments and interior arrange
ments could not correctly be termed elegant, and
the place possessed a very indescribable odour,
nevertheless it proved warm and comfortable, and
was infinitely preferable to a night in the marsh.
The river is about seventy or eighty yards broad ;
and, at this season, runs quietly and smoothly be
tween its clayey banks, which it does not appear
often to overflow. The water, however, might rise
three or four feet without this taking place. The
number of Russians who remain here permanently
is but small, as the settlement does not consist of
more than thirty huts, and half a dozen storehouses
thatched with reeds. During the months of Fe
bruary, March, and April, however, which is the

PARTICULARS OF THE FISHERY. 125
season for taking the sturgeon, a reinforcement of
some 300 men arrive from Astrachan to assist at
the fishing.
In the beginning of February they catch about
100, and towards the end of the month from
600 to 800 per day. In March, the number in
creases from 800 to 2,000 ; and, during April, they
take between 3,500 and 3,800 a day. The larger
number, however, is only caught for about fifteen
days previous to the rising of the river, when the
ships depart .with the produce. The few families
which are left during the remainder of the year still
continue to fish, though chiefly for their own con
sumption, taking from four to eight fish a day.
After the month of May, little or no roe is found in
them. The superintendent of the fishery was very ob
liging, and explained to us the whole process of
curing the roe and fish ; and, as we expressed a desire
to see the manner of fishing, he ordered out a boat,
and we witnessed the capture of several.
Across the river a long line is extended, to which
at intervals of about a foot and a half are attached
other lines two feet in length, each having a strong
and slightly barbed hook at its extremity. The
weight of these sinks the rope below the surface of
the water, but a number of cork or wooden floats
support it ; so that the hooks just touch the ground
when the lines to which they are fixed are kept
stretched. The sturgeon generally swims near the
bottom, when passing through the lines he is pricked
by a hook, upon which he makes a plunge, and is

126 CAVIARE.
caught by two or three of those nearest to him : the
more he struggle's, the more inextricably he entangles
himself. A couple of fishermen are stationed at the
end of the line in a boat, and, on seeing the disturb
ance of the water, they haul hand over hand along
the rope until they reach the fish; when one of them,
striking a large hook into it, draws its head out of
the water to the side of the boat, while his com
panion dispatches it with several blows of a heavy
wooden mallet. The lines are placed across the_
river from its mouth to a half a mile from the sea.
In the early part of the season, one boat suffices for
a line ; but, when the catch becomes more abundant,
each line employs two boats. Lines are likewise
placed in the sea across the mouth of the river. The
fish are taken as they ascend the stream to deposit
their spawn.
The method of curing is as follows: — The fish
being split, the roe and the substance which forms
the isinglass are taken out, and the body is carried
to a separate storehouse, where it is salted, arranged
in layers, and where it remains until shipped.
The isinglass is prepared by being simply hung up
to dry in the sun.
The roe is cured for exportation by being im
mersed in a strong brine, where it remains for two
hours, during which it is continually stirred. The
mixture is then allowed to settle, when the roe having
risen to the surface is taken out, and rubbed through
a strong coarse sieve to cleanse it from any fleshy or
gristly matter which may have been cut accidentally
from the fish. The roe is afterwards submitted to

CAVIARE. 127
a strong pressure in small bags of matting to get
rid of the water. The process thus completed, the
roe is stowed away in casks, under the name of
caviare. The storehouse in which the dried fish were kept
contained about 800, the whole produce of the
fishery since the departure of the vessels in May
last. We were informed that the number of fish
taken in a tolerably good year amounted to about
125,000,* which, in their salted state, sell at Astra
chan for from three to five kurrauns (shillings) per
poot. About 250 poots of the isinglass are produced,
fetching between thirty and thirty-five tomauns per
poot. The caviare casks contain forty poots each, and
the annual number amounts to 300 or 350. It is
sold in Russia for about two tomauns per poot.
When the caviare is intended for immediate use,
it is merely washed clean, and steeped in salt and
water for half an hour.
There are three species of sturgeon, besides some
other fish from which the roe is taken to make
caviare ; but all the different kinds are mixed up in
the same vat. The colour before preparation is
precisely the same as it is afterwards, being generally
of a greenish black ; but there are some few fish
that yield roe of a lighter hue, which is kept sepa
rate for presents to great people, being esteemed
on account of its rarity, but not for any peculiar
flavour. * See Appendix (A).

128 GEOGRAPHY OF THE COAST.
The salt consumed here is brought in large blocks
from the Turcoman coast, and is kept in a separate
store, in which is a machine for crushing it.
The statements regarding the rent which Meer
Aboo Talib Khan pays to the Persian Government
vary materially, but I believe that it is something
near 3,000 tomauns per annum. On accountof the
insecurity of everything Persian, he has become a
Russian subject, and nearly all the people connected
with the establishment are Russians.
Finding the object of our inquiry attained, and
the place possessing no further interest, we left it at
twelve o'clock on our return to Langarood, where
we arrived about seven in the evening.
The geography of the coast hereabouts has been
in some maps laid down very erroneously. In Colo
nel Monteith's, the coast from the mouth of the
Sefeed-rood lies north and south to the mouth of
some imaginary branch of this river, which with it
forms a large delta ; from this point, the coast is
represented as running south-east to the Langarood
river, and the town stands on the sea-shore. Now,
from the mouth of the Sefeed-rood, the coast lies
nearly north and south to the Langarood river ; the
town is situated about eight miles from the sea ; and
there is no branch of the Sefeed-rood that I could
see or hear of as laid down in the map alluded to.
In an old map, by John Elton, to be found in Han
way, the coast and situation of Langarood are laid
down much more correctly, and a succession of long
narrow islands are marked along the shore which
have since probably joined together and formed the

REMAINS OF ELTON'S SHIP. 129
strip of sand dividing the moordaubs from the sea.
This may have been occasioned by a receding of the
Caspian, which, as in the time of Hanway, is said to
advance and retreat every thirty years. At this
period we were told that it was receding.
17th. We deferred our departure, to allow our
horses another day to recruit ; and in the afternoon
we embarked in a small boat and went a few miles
up the river, enjoying the peculiarly soft and deli
cious temperature of the air, and the beautiful
scenery which presented itself at every turn.
The bridge near the town is a pleasing object ; its
high pointed arches seeming to reach almost within
a span of the parapet, and giving it a very light and
picturesque appearance. It is of some age, if one
may judge by the decomposition of the bricks, though
the bridge itself is still in good repair.
We had been making inquiries for the remains of
the ship built by Captain Elton for Nadir Shah,
which we were told was to be seen in one of the
moordaubs near the shore. The boatmen who took
us to the Sefeed-rood said they knew nothing
about it ; but, to our mortification, we heard to-day
that we had passed close to it, or, at least, to the
remains of a vessel which was probably the one
in question. It would have been an interesting
sight. On returning home, I observed several little boys
sitting under the bridge, fishing with the rod and
line. The rod was a reed, and the float a small
piece of rush tied to the line ; the hooks were Rus-
K

130 BOYS FISHING.
sian : and they had caught a quantity of small roach.
I do not remember having seen anything in the
East which reminded me so strongly of home as
these ragged urchins fishing under the shade of the
bridge.

131

CHAPTER VIII.
Leave Langarood. — Arrival at Rood-i-sir. — An Accident. — Rood-
i-sir. — Hidden Treasure. — Game. — Description of Gheelaun. —
Departure from Rood-i-sir. — Scenery of the Coast. — Rivers
forded during the day. — Snares for Pheasants. — Gipsies. —
Arrive at Surimroo. — Curious Patten. — Precautions against
Wild Beasts. — Aub-i-gherm. — Leave Surimroo. — Rivers. —
Azad-mahee Fishery. — The Azad-mahee. — Zuvvar. — Curious
Fire-place. — Leave Zuvvar. — Ussuf Sultaun. — Reach Abbas
abad. — Wild Boar. — Abbasabad. — Continue our Journey. —
Rivers along the Coast. — A Bear. — Arrive at Kerparoo. —
Districts of Tennacorben, Kellauristauk, and Coojoor. — De
parture. — Scenery. — Wild Fowl. — Rivers along the Coast —
Arrival at Serrordin Kellau. — Vain attempts to obtain a
Lodging. — A Mistake, and the Consequences. — Method of
Stacking Rice.
We left Langarood at half-past nine o'clock. Not
a cloud obscured the brightness of the morning, and
a deliriously cool breeze promised a pleasant ride.
The road, sometimes dry and sometimes deep in
mud, lay as usual through alternate intervals of
swampy forest, rice-fields, and mulberry plantations.
After about an hour's travelling, we arrived at a
small branch of the river Shalmon, now a mere rill
trickling over its pebbly bottom, but, when full,
about fifteen yards wide. We continued along its
bed until we came to the main stream, which we
K 2

132 ARRIVAL AT ROOD-I-SIR.
forded, and then passed through a village of the
same name, situated on its banks. The Shalmon
has its rise in the mountain of Sammon, one of the
loftiest peaks of the Elburz range along this part
of the coast: the river was at this season about
sixty yards wide, and not more than a foot and a
half deep.
A short distance further, over a wretched path
way, we crossed the small river Bellisar, the bound
ary of the district of Rawneckoo ; and then passing
through a large village of that name, and after ford
ing another small intermediate stream, came to the
Kia-rood, over which there is a lofty brick bridge in
good repair.
On entering the village of Rood-i-sir, our halting-
place, an awkward accident happened to our Jellow-
dar (head groom). This man, who carried a Koord-
ish spear, which is pointed at the nether extremity
for the convenience of sticking it in the ground, put
his horse into a canter, and endeavoured to strike a
large dog which had attacked one of our greyhounds.
Missing the dog, the point stuck in the earth, and,
his horse galloping onwards, the lower end of the
spear entered the socket just above the eye. He
immediately fell' from his horse, and I thought the
weapon had penetrated his brain ; however, he soon
recovered, and, on examining the wound, we found
the eye untouched. He mounted again, and rode to
our quarters ; and, with the aid of our head servant,
who pretended to some skill in medicine, was cured
in about a fortnight, though for many days he suf
fered great pain.

HIDDEN TREASURE. — GAME. 133
The distance between Langarood and Rood-i-sir is
a little more than eight miles, which we travelled
in about two hours and a half, arriving at twelve
o'clock. In the course of the afternoon we strolled
into the village, which exactly resembles others
which have been before described. It consists of
about an hundred families, and boasts a few wretched
shops, designated a bazar.
During the course of our stroll we came upon a
green, where were some curiously carved stones and
brickwork rising above the turf, apparently the
tops of arches. We were informed by our guide
that a spell-bound treasure was concealed in these
vaults until last year, when an Indian Dervish ar
rived, who, having performed some incantations and
broken the charm, entered the place, and found
several pans full of gold coins, which he carried off.
The hole by which he made his entrance was pointed
out, but it was too much choked with rubbish to
admit of our doing the same. There is much trea
sure buried in Persia, as the custom prevails so
universally among the wealthy ; but a superstitious
dread prevents people from searching for it, as they
affirm that a finder of hidden gold is never pros
perous. We continued our walk to the sea-shore, which
was covered with the tracks of the wild hog ; but,
though we beat the bushes for some time, we could
not rouse one. On our way home, we entered the
skirts of the forest, and flushed a great many wood
cocks and a few pheasants.
In Taulish and Gheelaun nearly all the guns in

134 DESCRIPTION OF GHEELAUN.
the hands of the peasantry have flint-locks, but here
I frequently observed match-locks.
Rood-i-sir, which is as well the name of a
district as of a village, is the last in Gheelaun.
Before leaving it, I will say a few words regarding
the present condition and administration of the
province. The name is appropriately derived from " Gheel,"
mud. Some twenty years ago it was populous and
flourishing ; but the plague of 1831 left insufficient
hands to cultivate the ordinary quantity of rice, and
to rear as many silk-worms as the mulberry planta
tions would feed. More than hajif the present po
pulation, which is said to amount tovl00,000 souls,
are strangers, chiefly from Khalkhal, a district on
the other side of the mountains, who are now,
however, gradually becoming naturalized ;. and the
province is yearly increasing in wealth and produc
tion. The administration is conducted in the most dis
orderly manner. The Wallee, Mohamed Ameefr
Khan is a complete imbecile, and cannot make his
authority respected ; and when, a short time ago, he
was at Tehraun on the point of being superseded,
the principal men, afraid that a more active person
might be appointed who would take the affairs of
the country into his own hands, bribed the prime
minister with the sum of 2,800 tomauns, and Mo
hamed Ameen Khan was confirmed in his govern
ment. Every district has now its own self-appointed
Haukim, generally the richest and most influential
landholder ; each of whom, one after the other, has

DESCRIPTION OF GHEELAUN. 135
obtained from the Vizier a firman or order prohibiting
any interference with him or his district. Some time
since the Russian Consul had occasion to complain
to the Wallee of a grievance, who sent a ferosh to
the Haukim of the place to enforce redress: — the
ferosh received a severe bastinado ! " What can I
do ?" said the Wallee, " I cannot interfere." Under
this state of things, a governor must necessarily be a
mere cypher ; and, even were he resolved to put mat
ters right, he would find that he did not possess the
power. These petty chiefs and the rich landed
proprietors have by their extortion reduced the
peasantry to the last degree of poverty ; and, while
the former grow yearly more and more wealthy,
the poor ryot is left with scarcely the common
necessaries of life.
The revenue of Gheelaun amounts to 200,000
tomauns, and is principally derived from the silk ;
by far the greater part is actually remitted to the
treasury in hard cash, and the remainder goes, I
believe, to pay the salaries of a few of the Go
vernment employes connected with the province.
Independent of this, between 40,000 and 50,000
tomauns are sent annually to Tehraun in the form
of presents and bribes. The salary of the Wallee is
6,000 tomauns, half of which is for the expenses
of his table.
Among the vegetable productions are great
quantities of wild hops, which are not converted
to any use. Hemp also grows wild, and is used in
making ropes for packing the silk. It is called
"Kenef," and sells at from two to two and a half

136 DEPARTURE FROM ROOD-I-SIR.
kurrauns per maun-tabreez (six and a half pounds).
Rice is produced in abundance ; but a great deal is
likewise imported from Mauzunderoon, and with
fish forms the usual food of the native peasantry.
The silk has been alluded to.
The climate is hot and wet, and the extent of
rice cultivation artificially laid under water, added
to the natural marshes, converts the lower part of
the province into one universal swamp; so that,
during the intense heat of summer, fevers, agues,
and other diseases of a dangerous nature prevail,
and all the inhabitants who have it in their power
retire to the yeilauks among the mountains. '
We rose with the sun, and, leaving Rood-i-sir,
continued our journey at about half-past eight.
Just outside the village we forded the river Norood,
about fifteen yards wide, running over a sandy bed,
between high and thickly wooded banks, and after
about half an hour's ride came to the sea-shore, along
which the road lay during the remainder of the
day's march. The scenery along these shores of
the Caspian is usually of the same character, — a
narrow strip of sand, bordered on one side by the
sea, and on the other by a belt of forest, beyond
which is a level, sometimes wooded and sometimes
cleared, backed by a range of high forest-clad moun
tains, the loftier summits of which are bare and at
this season covered with snow.
During the day we forded the following rivers
in succession, — the Yarason, Pool-i-rood, Gauzerood,
Larthijan, Mauzerood, Sirkerreh-rood, Hassanabad,
Oosiaun, Meeaundeh-rood, Serkhonee, Atcherood,"

SNARES FOR PHEASANTS. 137
and the Toorparoo, besides thirty-one small name
less streams, which were now mere trickling rills,
though their dry beds were sometimes twenty yards
across. Of the rivers just enumerated the Pool-i-
rood, the Sirkerreh-rood, the Meeaundeh-rood, and
the Toorparoo are the largest ; the summer bed of
the last mentioned being about two hundred and
thirty yards broad. The Meeaundeh-rood, or, as it
is sometimes called, the Sefeed Tamesh, separates
Gheelaun and Mauzunderoon, dividing the district
of Rood-i-sir from that of Tennacorben. There
were a great many large boulders, roots, and trunks
of trees strewed along the shore at the mouth of
this river, which when full is both deep and rapid.
Our road occasionally turned off the sands over
turf half covered with brushwood, among which the
peasantry had set snares for pheasants, woodcocks,
and other birds, in the following manner. They fix
rows of short sticks in the ground, and interweave
them with twigs and grass, so as to form a low
wattled fence about a foot high. In this a small
opening is left, across which is bent a pliant stick
with a horse-hair noose at the extremity ; this stick
is held down in a curved position by a strong peg
on the opposite side of the opening : the bird, in
endeavouring to pass through this, runs its head
into the noose, and, in struggling, releases the bent
stick, which springing up draws the noose tight
and strangles the bird. The ground in some places
was literally covered with these diminutive hedges,
and, before I was told their use, I could not con
ceive for what they were intended, as the bent stick

138 ARRIVE AT SURIMROO.
and noose, which would have suggested the idea of
a snare, were totally concealed by the dry leaves
and twigs scattered over and about them. The
birds are said never to jump over them, but always
to try the opening.
We passed several tents belonging to gipsies, who
employ themselves in making the heads of calleoons
of pear and other wood, and also various implements
used by the women in spinning.
The day was very hot, and, after a long and fa
tiguing ride of about seven fursucks, we came to
the small village of Surimroo, where we obtained
tolerable lodgings for ourselves; but there was no
comfortable place for the servants, who had to re
main all night in an open shed.
We found only women and a few old men in the
village; the younger portion being absent with
Ussuf Sultaun, the Naiib or deputy of Habeboollah
Khan, Governor of the district.
The women belonging to the house in which we
were established did not seem to have the least
objection to show their faces, but assisted in getting
everything ready for our accommodation : two of
them were girls between sixteen and twenty, and
by no means ugly. I saw here a curious kind of
patten : it was made of a flat piece of wood about
the size of the foot, with two cross pieces underneath
to raise it above the mud ; and on the top was fixed
a small wooden peg or button, which is placed be
tween the first and second toes, and thus the patten
is kept on the foot. I have seen very similar pattens
in England used in dyehouses, but never the same

LEAVE SURIMROO. 139
method of holding them on. I observed also a great
quantity of little thatched buts raised on wooden
pillars about four feet from the ground, into which
the sheep and goats were hoisted every night as a
protection from the wild beasts ; there were also
similar lodgings for the poultry. I afterwards found
these precautions generally adopted throughout
Mauzunderoon, which is much more infested with
wild animals than Gheelaun.
The village of Aub-i-gherm (hot water), so called
from its hot springs, is situated about two miles off,
nearer the mountains. We did not visit this place,
but were told that there were three springs, one
abundant and two less copious ; the former the
hottest of the three ; that the water was clear and
colourless, and not used by the natives internally,
but merely for bathing.
20th Dec. The morning was stormy and rainy,
and on referring to the thermometer we found a
difference of ten degrees in the temperature since
• yesterday. We left Surimroo at a quarter past nine,
and, crossing a small river of the same name, pro
ceeded along the beach. A strong cold wind blew,
causing a heavy sea on the Caspian, and the coast
presented a broad edge of foam.
Immediately after passing the river Surimroo, the
land between the shore and the mountains appeared
to sink much lower than the level of the sea ; and,
with the exception of the invariable belt of forest
along the coast, most of the country was cleared and
employed in rice cultivation.
During our march we crossed the following

140 AZAD-MAHEE FISHERY.
streams, — the Bor-i-shee, Noosaroo, Kiarleherroo,
Sheer-i-rood,Vaushek, Shahlekellau, Mazzur, Teel-i-
rood, Oukillisar, and another, the name of which
I could not ascertain ; of these the Sheer-i-rood is
the largest and deepest ; the Noosaroo and the
Kiarleherroo come next in size ; but all are consider
able rivers in the summer, though at present they
do not contain much water ; besides these mentioned
were sixteen smaller streams.
On the rivers Sheer-i-rood and Mazzur (which
may perhaps be the Mazarus of Pliny) are fisheries
of the azad-mahee, rented by Ussuf Sultaun, Habe-
boollah Khan's Naib or lieutenant, for about three
hundred tomauns. The fish are caught all the year
round, either in weirs, or with a long-handled three-
pronged fork ; but the principal seasons are during
the spring and autumn, when sometimes as many as
ten horse-loads a day are taken. The fishermen are
all Persians, no Russians being stationed at any of
these rivers.
On the sands at the mouth of the Mazzur we
found some men, with forks in their hands, and their
shalwars rolled up to their thighs, watching for the
fish, which were occasionally thrown by the surf into
shallow water ; they speared one while we were
there, weighing about sixteen pounds, which we
bought for a kurraun (a shilling) : in the season
two or three such fish sell for the same sum. The
azad-mahee is generally considered as the salmon
of the Caspian ; but from the following description
of the fish we purchased, which I accurately ex
amined, those learned in such matters will, I think,

THE AZAD-MAHEE. 141
agree with me that it is rather a species of lake
trout. They are only found along this coast, where
the numerous rivers render the water almost fresh.
I have seen precisely similar fish in Lough Neagh
in Ireland, which are there called " Dullaghans,"
and grow to a large size. The fish in question
measured thirty-eight and a half inches from the tip
of the snout to the extremity of the tail ; its girth
at the rise of the back-fin, which was nineteen
inches from the snout, was fifteen inches ; it had
two fins near the gills, two in the centre of the
belly, and one behind the vent-fin on the back, and
the small thick fin near the tail common to all trout
and salmon ; the tail was rounded ; the fish was
marked irregularly with dark brown and red spots ;
the colour on the back was of a dirty olive-green
shade, blending on the sides into a beautiful roseate
tint, which towards the belly became of a golden
hue ; the jaws were not so pointed as those of the
salmon, and the head was altogether more rounded.
The fish was full of roe. All the azad-mahee I
have seen have been of this kind, with one excep
tion, which I saw afterwards at Saree, where for
the first time I recognized what I believed to be a
real salmon : the colour on the back was dark blue,
merging into a silvery tint on the sides and belly ;
and it was marked with dark spots, though I think
more thickly than our common salmon. The people
called this fish also azad-mahee, but it was evi
dently a different species from the rest, and when
cooked was very much superior in flavour and more
highly coloured : thus the salmon is found in the

142 CURIOUS FIRE-PLACE.
Caspian, though, I fancy, in comparatively small
numbers, the greater part of those so called being
the lai'ge trout just described. It is possible, how
ever, that at this season the salmon were in the
salt-water, which would account for our not finding
any ; and they may perhaps be plentiful at the
period when they resort to the rivers.
After passing the Mazzur it began to rain heavily,
and we made the best of our way to Zuvvar, a
small village five fursucks from Surimroo, situated
inland about half a mile from the shore, where, with
a little difficulty, we found pretty tolerable lodgings.
In our room was a rather curiously constructed
fire-place. In one of the walls, on the same side as
the door, were pierced two circular holes about four
inches in diameter, three feet from the ground,
and the same distance apart. Between these, and
against the wall, was a small solid square of hard
mud, at the foot of which the fire was placed in a
hole made in the floor for its reception. Some five
feet above this was a projecting shelf about four
feet broad to prevent the smoke ascending, which,
from the draught created by the open door, was
supposed to escape through the above-mentioned
holes ; in the present instance, however, owing
perhaps to the high wind, it was a lamentable
failure, and, after having been nearly suffocated,
we were obliged to order the fire to be removed.
Above our apartment there was a loft, which was
reached by means of an upright pole, with pieces of
wood nailed to it at intervals to serve as steps.
Dec. 21st. After a restless and uncomfortable

USSUF SULTAUN. 143
night, being almost driven mad by the vermin, we
rose early and hastened our preparations for depart
ure. The thermometer was at 37° Fahr., a difference
of 21° in two days, but the morning was most lovely ;
not a cloud obscured its brightness, the hoar-frost
glittered on the foliage, and all nature seemed to
feel the delightful change from the rain and wind
of the previous day.
We left Zuvvar at nine o'clock, and, crossing a
small stream near the village, once more continued
our route along the shore. The scene here, too,
was changed : instead of foam and breakers, the sea
was calm as a mill-pond ; and, save the occasional
splash of some huge sturgeon gambolling on the
surface, not a ripple disturbed its tranquil bosom,
which appeared like a vast sheet of glass.
About two miles from the village we crossed the
river Izzarood, where there is a fishery of the azad-
mahee, .and soon afterwards came to the banks of
the Neshtarood, where we found Ussuf Sultaun
with a body of men just preparing for a march.
On dismounting we were shown into a small cottage,
where sat the gentleman in question, a sharp-look
ing, shrivelled-up little man, but having withal rather
a pleasant expression of countenance. He received
us very politely, and in the course of conversation,
on asking him what he was doing here with his
troops, he replied that "he was merely collecting
men to be sent to Enzellee and Resht," several small
parties of whom we had already met on the road.
. On taking leave, Ussuf Sultaun sent a horseman
with us as far as Abbasabad, about seven miles from

144 REACH ABBASABAD.
Zuvvar, where we arrived, having first crossed the
river Passandeh and another nameless stream.
About an hour after our arrival we strolled into
the forest with our guns, to see if we could find
any of the various game with which it was said to
abound. We bad not gone far before the guide
who was with me started a wild boar; the animal
darted into a thicket, and I hastened off in the
direction I thought it probable he might take. We
beat about for some time without success, and I was
about to turn back, when I heard a noise behind me
as of an animal forcing its way through the branches,
and turning round saw a huge boar standing on the
brink of the thicket about ten yards off. Just as I
raised my gun, which was loaded with ball, he
bounded across the opening, and I pulled the trigger:
the next instant he was lost among a quantity of
alder-bushes. I immediately followed, but could
not find a trace of him, the ground being so swampy
that any foot-mark filled up as fast as it was made.
During the afternoon I started several pigs, but
could not get another shot, the jungle where I found
them being so excessively close. We saw also a good
many woodcocks and a few pheasants, but the same
cause prevented our having much success.
Abbasabad, belonging to Ussuf Sultaun, is a
very insignificant place, consisting of fifty or sixty
wretched little mud hovels, but is pleasantly situated
on a fine open space covered with green sward, not
more than two hundred yards from the sea-shore.
The scenery towards the mountains is remarkably
picturesque, and the country much more open than

RIVERS ALONG THE COAST. 145
that of Gheelaun it is laid out in rice-fields, which
at this season, when at a short distance, appear like
stubble-fields, though on nearer approach they are
found to be so many deep swamps terribly fatiguing
to the horses.
Dec. 22. The morning was cloudy, but we did
not anticipate rain : the thermometer was 49° Fahr.
We left Abbasabad at eight o'clock, and continued
our journey along the sands in a direction E. by S.
During the day's march we forded the following ri
vers, of which the Nummuck-aub-rood is the largest ;
the Asp-i-chai, Lauzabad, Teel-i-rood, Palenga-rood,
Kellaroobad, Nummuck-aub-rood, No-rood, Rood-
pesht, Serd-aub-rood, Chalous, Kerparoosah ; besides
seventeen other small streams, some of which I fancy
must be branches from one or other of the larger
rivers. Near the Teel-i-rood I observed some very
fine box wood, and during the greater part of our
ride the underwood of the forest was chiefly of this
tree. Not far from the Roodpesht I perceived a
bear on the sands, which at the same time saw me
and made slowly for the cover : calling out to my
companion, I put my horse to a gallop, and, keeping
along the edge of the forest under cover of some
alders, endeavoured to cut him off. I came up with
him a few yards from a dense thicket of box, into
which he plunged, while I was vainly attempting to
draw my pistol, which had got entangled in the
shawl I wore round my waist.
After travelling five and a half fursucks, we ar
rived at the village of Kerparoo.
From the Sefeed Tamesh or Meeaundeh-rood to
L

146 TENNACORBEN, KELLAURISTAUK, COOJOOR.
the Nummuck-aub-rood lies the district of Tenna-
corben ; from thence to the Chalous, that of Kel-
lauristauk ; and from the Chalous to a river called the.
Soolerdeh, some ten fursucks beyond where we now
were, is the district of Coojoor. They are all under
Habeboollah Khan, who, as before mentioned, gene
rally resides at Tehraun, being detained there in
command of a regiment, so that the executive admi
nistration principally devolves on his Naib, Ussuf
Sultaun. The revenue derived from Coojoor is about
1800 tomauns, and from Tennacorben and Kellauri-
stauk about 5300 tomauns, making altogether 7100
tomauns in money, besides a certain proportion of
produce given in kind. The two latter districts
furnish 1000 foot-soldiers. The productions of the
low grounds are rice, a little silk of a quality inferior
to that of Gheelaun, and sugar ; while beans, wheat,
and barley are grown in the highlands. Some five
thousand families of the Khodjavend tribe, from Ar-
delan and Loristan, reside in Tennacorben and Kel-
lauristauk ; and in Coojoor about two thousand fami
lies of the Abdul Malekees, from the neighbourhood
of Shirauz. These are Eeliaut tribes, but they have
now no tents, and inhabit different villages, moving
from one to the other as they find it convenient.
They keep cattle, but employ themselves as well in
the cultivation of the soil. They furnish between
them about fifteen hundred mounted men, in lieu of
being subject to taxation.
The village of Kerparoo is divided into two parts,
containing some fifty houses, and pays a revenue of
sixty tomauns per annum. Our quarters here were
pretty comfortable.

RIVERS ALONG THE COAST. 147
Dec. 23. The thermometer to-day stood at 54°
Fahr.; and the sky was overcast, and threatened rain.
Leaving Kerparoo at about twenty minutes to nine,
we continued along the coast in much the same
direction as yesterday. After crossing the rivers
Maushellek and Mooseabad, the mountains ap
proached close to the shore, and we perceived large
grey masses of rock amid the dark forest scenery ;
sometimes the road lay within the skirts of the
woods, in which I noticed great quantities of wild
jessamine, and the ground was covered with flowers.
The day gradually became more and more gloomy ;
the wind arose, and at last the rain came down in
torrents ; winter seemed to be commencing, and we
saw vast flocks of wild fowl, one after the other in
endless succession, flying over the Caspian, from the
northern shores to their winter quarters in the more
genial east.
Hastening onwards, we forded the Herrirood, Mazi-
kerrood, and the Doosdeekerrood, the mouth of which
was then choked by a sand-bank, which had been
thrown up by the late winds ; the waters, however,
were collecting inside, and by their weight would
very soon force a passage for themselves. A short
distance from the shore, on the banks of this stream,
is situated a large village called Kalentes. Some
way further on, we crossed the river Alleeabad, and
during our day's ride had passed over seven smaller
rivulets besides those named.
Wet, and glad to have arrived near the end of our
march, we turned from the sea-shore to the village
of Serrordin Kellau, situated some few hundred
l2

148 VAIN ATTEMPTS TO OBTAIN A LODGING.
yards from the beach. After wandering for more
than an hour among the straggling cottages, vainly
seeking for a habitable lodging, we came at last to a
house which seemed rather more eligible than the
rest. It had two small apartments divided by an
open space, where, surrounded by several children,
sat a middle-aged lady, over a comfortable fire, com
posedly smoking a calleoon. To her we addressed
ourselves ; and mildly representing that it was rather
damp outside, and that we had been a long time
looking for a house without success, begged that she
would allow us to establish ourselves in hers. She,
however, soon put an end to the parley, by declaring
that she would give us no lodging, and we must seek
one elsewhere ; but tired of wandering about in the
rain, and perceiving that by merely asking civilly for
it we were not likely to get lodged at all, we inti
mated our determination to remain where we were ;
and having dismounted, and sent our horses to an
adjoining stable, requested that they would soon pre
pare one of the rooms which appeared unoccupied. On
hearing this, they commenced a prodigious clamour ;
several women, who had collected on the spot, abusing
our servants and ourselves at the top of their
voices, and the muleteer for bringing us there ; our
people expostulating, threatening, and reviling in
their turn. At length an old man came up, and
raised a tremendous din, using every opprobrious
epithet he could command towards our attendants,
who were not backward in returning the compli
ment ; and amid all this uproar we were given to
understand that this was the anderoon of Bustam

A MISTAKE, AND ITS CONSEQUENCES. 149
Khan, the chief of the village, and that the lady was
his wife. We had no idea of this, and endeavoured
to explain that it was quite a mistake, and that if
they would find us another place we would depart
immediately; but the screams of the women and
the vociferations of the men prevented anything
from being heard or understood. The scene now
became very animated; first, several old women,
armed with sticks and stones, made their appear
ance in the field ; then a tall, savage-looking fellow,
furnished also with a huge club, came forward, and,
seizing the Chavadar, began poking his ribs in a very
unpleasant manner : our men interfered, and things
looked serious. Meanwhile some twenty or thirty
most ferocious-looking ruffians had collected around
us, and the whole village was rapidly assembling.
One fellow rushed forwards, shouting " Be-kesh, be-
kesh !" (Pull, pull !) and, seizing the bridle of a horse
which was tied to a pillar against which I was lean
ing, tore it from the post, and began belabouring
the poor beast. I had been quietly looking on the
scene before me ; but, when I saw this fellow rush
ing towards me with uplifted club, I thought he was
going to strike me, and hastily drew a pistol from
my belt. Mr. A. was standing a few yards from me,
with his hand on his pistol ; and I expected every
moment that some of our men would be struck, and
either fire or use their swords, and that a fight would
be commenced in real earnest. On drawing my
weapon, an old man, who was striving to make
peace, but who only increased the confusion, came
to me, and said, " Sahib, Sahib, don't use it — don't

150 A MISTAKE, AND ITS CONSEQUENCES.
fire : everything will be settled directly." I had
really no intention of doing so till things came to
extremities; and indeed, situated as we were, on
foot, and separated one from another, it would have
been useless ; and, had blood been spilt, we should
most probably have been all murdered. The uproar
was now at its height, clubs were brandished, and
all the villagers were excited and indignant at the
supposed affront to the anderoon of their chief. One
of them, a handsome man of about forty, breathless
and white with passion, was answering some expos
tulations of our head servant, and I caught the fol
lowing exclamations : " But what words are these?
What have you done? Are there not plenty of
houses in the village besides this ? But this — this is
an anderoon ! — will nothing but the anderoon of our
chief satisfy you ?" At length, after much angry
gesticulation and noise, they began to perceive that
it was a mistake ; and that, if another place was
procured for us, we would immediately withdraw.
They therefore offered to conduct us to a lodging;
and, having once more mounted our horses, we re
moved to a small hut, which was cleared for our re
ception. At a short distance from it was pointed out
one for our attendants ; but as we did not much like
the idea of dividing our forces, they made them
selves as comfortable as circumstances would allow
in the verandah of our apartment.
All this fracas might have been avoided had the
Khan's lady possessed sense enough to have ex
plained matters, and the civility to have ordered
some one to find us another lodging; and had our

METHOD OF STACKING RICE. 151
stupid muleteer, who knew perfectly well who the
people were, explained the matter to us. The chief
himself was absent ; there was no responsible per
son to whom we could refer ; and these wild fellows,-
who were of the Abdul Malekee tribe, and notori
ous blackguards, cared for none but their own
chiefs, and sometimes not even for them. Where
there is a Ket-khoda, or some head-man to refer
to on occasions of difficulty, such disturbances sel
dom take place, as he would be responsible for the
consequences. At first they took us to be Rus
sians ; and one old man shouted out, " Yes, yes ;
these are they who wish to take our country."
The village belongs to Bustam Khan, chief of the
Abdul Malekee in this district, and contains some
thirty-five houses, of which twenty belong to the
native peasantry, and the remainder to the tribe.
They say that the land belonging to it produces
about 1000 khalwars of rice, of which the Khan
gets 100.
I noticed in several villages, and in this in par
ticular, a method of stacking rice among the
branches of trees, probably to preserve it from
rats and other vermin, and also from the cattle.
In the evening we took every precaution against
a surprise from the villagers ; but we were unmo
lested, and slept soundly till the morning.

152

CHAPTER IX.
Continue our Route. — Rivers along the Coast.— Noor. — Reach
Izzut-deh — Sugar. — Departure. — Marshy Forest. — The Allem-
rood. — The Harrauz. — Swimming the Horses over. — A Scene of
Confusion. — Talligi-sir. — Our Lodgings. — A merry Christmas!
— Wintry appearance of the Country. — Road to Aumil. —
The Meerza unhorsed. — Aumil. — The District of Aumil. —
Bridge. — Mausoleum of Seyed Ghwaum-u-deen  Iron Mines
of Allisherood. — Road to Tehraun. — Leave Aumil. — Shah
Abbas' Causeway. — Game. — Rice Mill. — Arrival at Borfroosh.
— Our Quarters. — Receive a visit from the Prince's Meerza. —
The Baugh-i-Shah. — The Prince's Apartment. — Ardeshir
Meerza. — His Attachment to the Bottle. — Receive and pay
visits. — Abbas Kooly Meerza. — Lovely Scenery.
Dec. 24th. During the night some snow had
fallen on the neighbouring mountains; and heavy
masses of clouds, coming from the sea, threatened
a renewal of the rain.
At about half-past eight we left Serrordin Kel-
lau, and continued our journey along the coast.
From this point the mountains began gradually to
recede from the shore, leaving a tract of low,
marshy land, which, where we halted in the evening,
was from fifteen to twenty miles broad, dotted with
numerous villages, and extensively cultivated with
sugar and rice.

REACH IZZUT-DEH. 153
During our march, the beach was more stony
than usual, shelving abruptly into the sea, which
appeared along this part of the coast to be of
greater depth than before We crossed the fol
lowing streams, besides eight smaller ones without
names; the Nummuck-aub-rood, the Aulemerood,
the Katcheroo, the Allemrood, the Soolerdeh (di
viding Coojoor from Noor), the Rustam-rood, and
the Izzut-deh. On the banks of the three last-
mentioned rivers are large villages of the same
names. The district of Noor is inhabited entirely
by its own peasantry, who have never allowed any
Eeliauts to settle among them. The revenue of
Noor amounts to about 6000 tomauns in money,
and a proportion of produce in kind.
On entering Izzut-deh, we sent to the chief, Hus
sein Kooly Khan, requesting a lodging, which was
immediately prepared for us. The village is long
and straggling, extending about two miles from one
end to the other, aud situated along the shore on
both sides of the river, which is seventy yards broad,
and is crossed by a narrow wooden bridge. The
houses, consisting of a single apartment, are miser
able huts, thatched with reeds or the leaves of the
sugar-cane, and amount in all to about a hundred
and twenty, though the numerous sheds and out
houses among them would suggest a greater num
ber. The village is held in tweel by Hussein Kooly
Khan, and pays him a revenue of 1000 tomauns.
The Khan came to bid us welcome, and in the
course of conversation, on our inquiring about the
cultivation of the sugar-cane, and the method of

154 SUGAR.
extracting the juice, he conducted us to a place
where the operation was being performed.
The climate and marshy soil of the lower parts
of Mauzunderoon seem well adapted to the growth
of the sugar-cane. The appearance of a field of
this plant is that of a dense mass of ordinary reeds
of the height of about five feet. The canes kept
for planting are preserved under ground during the
winter; and in the month of March, the land hav
ing been prepared, they are cut into pieces of two
or three joints, and planted in rows. At each joint
there is a bud, and each bud produces from three
to as many as ten shoots. The canes arrive at ma
turity in about eight months, when they are cut
down close to the roots. The peasants consume
a considerable quantity of the fresh cane, which
they are continually chewing.
The mode of expressing the juice is as follows :
A block, cut from the rough trunk of a tree, of
about thirty inches in diameter, is placed firmly in
the ground, standing above it to the height of about
three feet. It is hollowed out in the shape of a
cone, with a passage at the bottom, through which
the juice runs into a wooden trough, placed in the
ground for its reception. In the hollow of the
block a pole is placed in a slanting direction, so that
in revolving it presses against the sides of the cone :
the upper end of the pole is fitted into the centre
of a bent stick, one end of which is fastened down
to the extremity of a long narrow frame, which
revolves round the block of wood ; while the other
end of the stick is fastened by a rope to the oppo-

MODE OF EXPRESSING THE JUICE. 155
site extremity of the frame, the rope being long
enough to allow that end of the stick to remain
horizontal. The frame is drawn round by a bullock
driven by a boy seated on the end next the animal ;
and the lad's weight, keeping the frame in an oblique
position, acts on the pole, and maintains its equal
pressure on the sides of the funnel. On the other
end of the frame are placed a quantity of canes,
which a man, who walks round with the machine,
breaks into small pieces, and casts into the funnel,
taking out the refuse from which the juice has
been expressed.
Contiguous to the pressing-machine is a caldron
placed over a fire. The juice is taken from the
receiving-trough, and strained through a coarse
cloth into the boiler, where it remains for some
hours, being continually stirred, until a thick scum
rises to the surface, which is skimmed off, and the
liquor is put into jars to cool. When cold, it is
strained, and boiled a second and third time, after
which it becomes of the consistency of thick mud ;
and the process is completed by pouring it into flat
dishes to dry.
When dry, it forms a paste, in appearance very
much like gingerbread of a light colour ; and, being
cut into small squares, is sold for about one shilling
per maun tabreez of six and a half pounds. The
molasses is made from the inferior plants, and is
less boiled. It sells for half the price of the sugar.
The whole apparatus just described is inclosed in
a small thatched shed. No quicklime or any other
ingredient is used to purify the liquor, the prepara-

156 DEPARTURE. — MARSHY FOREST.
tion being merely confined to crushing, straining,
and boiling ; and the sugar has consequently a strong
unpleasant flavour. We were told that in the
course of a day one machine expresses about fifteen
mauns shahee of juice, which yields five mauns sha
hee* of sugar ; thus the value of the whole produce
of one mill in a day amounts to about ten shillings.
We heard afterwards that a small quantity of Mau
zunderoon sugar had been sent to Russia, where it
was found very tolerable after being refined ; but
nearly all that is manufactured here is consumed
in this and the neighbouring provinces.
Dec. 25th. In the night snow fell on the moun
tains ; and this morning a gale was blowing, and rain
seemed impending. The thermometer was at 48°
Fahr. We intended to go to Aumil to-day, very
much against the inclination of our Chavadars, who
protested that they only knew one road to Borf
roosh, that by the sea-shore ; Aumil was out of
the way, and they had never been there before.
We were determined, however, to see the town,
and procured a guide from Hussein Kooly Khan.
The baggage was not ready before ourselves, and we
started with it.
Our guide led us at first along a dry path, paral
lel to the shore, through low bushes ; but afterwards,
turning into the belt of forest between us and the
sea, we proceeded towards the beach : no track was
here visible, and the rain of the preceding night
had so flooded the ground, which was of a soft
boggy nature, that it was almost impassable. At
One maun shahee is equal to two mauns tabreez.

THE HARRAUZ. 157
length one of our servants' horses, which was in
advance, got so deep in the mire, that, after a series
of ineffectual plunges and struggles, he fell on his
side (upsetting his rider into the water), and remain
ed in that position till he was hauled out. We
could not pass this place, and hardly knew how to
get back, as the ground on every side was a com
plete bog. A great deal of shouting then ensued,
which at length produced an open-mouthed pea
sant, much astonished at the uproar in the usually
silent forest ; who, leading us through a devious path
among the trees, at last brought us to the sea
shore, on the banks of the AUemrood. This river
is the boundary between the district of Noor and
Aumil ; and, more inland, it is called the Allishe
rood. We were detained above a quarter of an
hour in finding a practicable ford, as the stream was
deep, rapid, and dangerous from quicksands. After
many fruitless trials, the passage was accomplished ;
the water, however, running considerably above the
horses' girths. The sea was rougher to-day than we
had yet seen it, the breakers were running very
high, and the wind was apparently increasing ; but
the clouds had cleared off, and we were relieved
from our apprehensions of rain.
We continued our march among low sand-hills,
covered with dwarf oak, prickly shrubs, and medlar-
trees, for three or four miles, till we arrived at the
Harrauz, on the opposite bank of which the village
of Mahmoudabad is built. The river was about thirty
yards broad ; its bed was deep, and the current rapid.
Several large boats from Badcobeh lay alongside the

158 A SCENE OF CONFUSION.
banks, which had brought naphtha, and were about to
load rice in return. From the people to whom they
belonged we learned that the only method of cross
ing was in a boat, the horses swimming over. This
was unpleasant and troublesome; but, there being no
alternative, we had our riding-horses stripped, and
their saddles and bridles put into the boat in which
we were ferried over. One of our own horses swam
on either side of the boat at each turn ; but those
belonging to the muleteers came five or six at a
time; after them their loads were brought across,
and the confusion and uproar was perfectly astonish
ing. In Persia nothing is done quietly : I remem
ber at Enzellee once hearing a noise in the street,
which I thought could be nothing less than a fight
between twenty or thirty people, or a popular commo
tion in its height; when, hastening to the spot, I
found it simply proceeded from half a dozen ragamuf
fins, moving the trunk of a tree towards the wharf!
In the present instance everybody was hallooing to
everybody else, and nobody listening to any one.
Here a muleteer let one of the packages fall into
the water, whereupon one of our servants com
menced a vigorous application of the whip, accom
panied by a torrent of abuse : — there might be seen
four grooms at one horse, endeavouring to saddle it
in an impossible space of time, all interfering with
each other, and raising a deafening clamour. In one
corner I perceived a servant indefatigably punching
the head of an unfortunate bystander, for what pre
cise reason I could not ascertain, unless to keep his
hands employed amid the general activity. In an-

TALIGISIR. — OUR LODGINGS. 159
other place some horses had begun to fight; and a con
course of people, rolling and tumbling one over the
other, were making frantic efforts to separate them.
The head muleteer, with a most melancholy and
distracted expression of countenance, was inquiring
about one of his horses, which had walked off no one
knew where, and was probably taking a quiet lun
cheon in the neighbouring jungle. There sat a
small boy, raising a doleful lamentation : he had
somehow got into the boat among the baggage, and,
on landing, was accidentally shoved overboard, and,
being pulled out, everybody cuffed him for tumbling
in. Lastly, to complete the confusion, all the riding-
horses were being galloped about, to keep them from
catching cold, by a pack of vagabonds, in such a
manner, that those employed in getting the packages
ready found themselves every moment in imminent
peril of being run over ; some twenty or thirty vil
lagers had besides come to look on or to assist, as
the case might be, who only increased the tumult.
Imagine all this, and a faint idea of the scene may
be formed.
In about an hour and a half, all being ready, we
turned inland through the village of Mahmoudabad,
a collection of small huts scattered here and there ;
and, finding that we should not have time to reach
Aumil, proceeded a short distance further, over a
swampy country, to the village of Talligi-sir: this
was almost a continuation of Mahmoudabad, houses
being found nearly all along the road.
We continued onward, vainly endeavouring to
find a suitable lodging, till at last we came to

160 A MERRY CHRISTMAS !
a spacious, well-built brick house, which, in ex
ternal appearance, seemed a palace in comparison
with the miserable mud-huts by which it was sur
rounded. The roof was tiled, and covered a divan-
khoneh, open in front, with two good-sized rooms
on each side. It belonged to a Meerza Said, the
owner of the village, having been built by his father
about thirty years before, and was now rapidly fall
ing into decay, as is almost every building one sees
in Persia. The Meerza was absent at Aumil, and
we found the place open and empty. When he is
here, he lives with his harem in another house,
not far distant ; this being used merely as a place
for transacting public business, and receiving visi
tors. We took possession of this abandoned and cheer
less place ; and by stopping up the crevices, laying
down carpets, hanging up curtains before the num
berless doors which we could not shut, and lighting
a roaring fire, contrived to give it a less melancholy
appearance. Thus, amid rice-swamps and jungle,
we were doomed to pass the evening of Christmas-
day ; and I never before spent such a dreary one.
We made several ineffectual efforts to be merry, but
somehow an unusual feeling of gloominess seemed
to oppress us both. In vain we drank punch — in
vain we sang songs : the punch failed to exhila
rate, and the songs appeared to have lost their har
mony. The wind howled mournfully through the
forest, and the rain pattered against the broken
windows. All further attempts at a merry Christ
mas were abandoned ; and we sank insensibly into

AUMIL. 161
a silent reverie, which continued unbroken until we
went to bed.
During the night the rain had fallen heavily ; the
morning turned out cold and dreary ; and a sharp
wind blew from the sea, driving before it dark banks
of mist, which in many places rose no higher than
the tops of the trees. Little more than a month
had passed since we entered the wooded districts
along the shores of the Caspian — but how changed
the scene ! Then, all was bright and cheerful, and
the forest was clothed in the foliage of summer :
now, nothing but bare, damp-looking branches, co
vered with moss and lichens, stretched themselves
above our path, hoarsely creaking in the wind and
dripping with rain, so that a more wintry scene can
not possibly be imagined.
At nine o'clock we mounted our horses and
started for Aumil. The road (if one can possibly
apply the term where there was really no road) lay
where every one found it most practicable, through a
succession of swampy rice-fields, interrupted occasion
ally by a mile or two of forest. In several places
we encountered wide and deep ditches, which we
crossed, over narrow bridges formed of the trunks
of a couple of trees, made so slippery by the rain
and mud that they were dangerous and unpleasant
both to the horses and their riders. In passing
one of these, the horse of our unfortunate Meerza
fell, pitching its rider into the ditch, where he was
regularly planted in the soft mud, head downwards :
he was hauled out just before he was choked ; and,
finding him unhurt, I could not forbear a hearty
M

162 AUMIL.
laugh at the forlorn and ridiculous figure he cut,
his bald head covered with mud and slime.
At length we arrived on a wide plain, partly
cultivated and partly covered with fern and bram
bles, in the midst of which Aumil is situated. The
town is concealed by tall trees in the streets and
gardens : the only conspicuous objects in approach
ing are three small tombs, probably containing the
remains of some of the Seyed dynasty, who formerly
reigned in Mauzunderoon.
We were detained some time before a lodging
was found, and then were obliged to content our
selves with a very miserable place, as the Haukim
and the other authorities to whom we might have
applied were absent. While things were being pre
pared, we rode through the town and about its
environs. Aumil is, at present, a most dilapidated place:
the houses are chiefly of brick, and in many places
have fallen to ruin and exhibit heaps of rubbish.
The streets are filthy lanes knee-deep in mud, and
the bazars are badly built and supplied. The prin
cipal row of shops is covered with a thatched roof,
which is suffered to fall gradually to pieces, though
a few poles and a little straw would suffice to repair
it. I could form no idea of the extent of the town.
The amount of the population differs materially
with the season, as/in summer a great proportion
retire to their yeilauks among the mountains.
The only trade here appears to be with Bor
froosh, for the supply of the inhabitants and the
neighbouring villages. Various small taxes on shops

BRIDGE. 163
and the rent of the office of durrogha, or chief
of police, amount to 800 tomauns, — all the town
pays in the shape of taxes. Formerly a prince
resided here as governor ; but now the place is
under a Haukim appointed by Ardeshir Meerza, the
governor of the province.
The district of Aumil, as well as the town, was
desolated by the plague of 1831 — 32, in common
with the rest of the province, and has never reco
vered the blow. The neighbourhood produces a
little silk, and considerable quantities of rice, sugar,
and cotton.
At this season, the river Harrauz, which flows
past the eastern side of the town, and which must
be a different stream or branch of the Harrauz
we had already crossed at Mahmoudabad, is very
insignificant, running through one channel of a wide
stony bed. It is spanned by a long brick bridge
of twelve pointed arches, erected on the site of
that described by Hanway as a " sumptuous bridge,"
over which it was not thought lucky to pass on
horseback, and every traveller dismounted and
passed it on foot ; this tradition, however, seems
to have vanished with the old fabric, for it is not
now even remembered by the inhabitants. The
present structure was erected about forty years
ago ; it is only eight feet wide between the para
pets, and, though it does not appear substantial
enough to have resisted the body of water which
rushes down the river in spring, it is, as yet, in
good repair.
We visited the mausoleum of the Seyed Ghwaum-
m2

164 MAUSOLEUM OF SEYED GHWAUM-U-DEEN,
u-deen, (strength of religion,) more commonly called
Meer Bozurk. This man, descended from Zein-
ul-Abudeen, a grandson of Allee, was so venerated
for his piety and virtues by the inhabitants of
Mauzunderoon, which at that time was an inde
pendent kingdom, that, in the course of some in
ternal revolutions, he was raised to the throne,
a.h. 760, a.d. 1 358, and founded a dynasty, which
ruled for a hundred and sixty years. The tomb
presents a large square mass of masonry in a ruin
ous condition, covered with rank vegetation, among
which the wild fig-tree is conspicuous, thrusting
its roots and branches through the walls, and tend
ing to hasten their fall. It was built by Shah
Abbas, who was descended from the Seyed on his
mother's side. The exterior is decorated with lac
quered tiles, though the workmanship was neither
so beautiful nor so fine as some other specimens
I have seen.
The principal apartment of the building is a
large, square, domed hall, in the centre of which
stands a case of carved wood containing the remains
of the saint. The lower parts of -the walls are
adorned with scrolls of flowers in tile-work; but,
with the exception of the case just mentioned,
the place is empty, having no lamps or orna
ments of any kind. Around this hall are several
smaller chambers, formerly perhaps inhabited by
the attendants of the shrine, but now, for the
most part, occupied by cattle. One of these rooms
we found tenanted by a party of dervishes, seated
in a circle on the floor, smoking a kalleoon. It

PARTY OF DERVISHES. 165
was one of the wildest and most picturesque groups
I ever saw, and would have made a fine subject
for a painting. The chamber was lofty and gloomy,
and heaps of rubbish had fallen from the decayed
roof: in one corner sat an old haggard-looking
man, almost bent double over a stone slab held
between his knees, on which he was grinding some
substance to powder, and mumbling to himself a
low chant. In the centre, the dervishes were
grouped round the dying embers of a wood fire,
in their fantastic dresses, their uncombed locks
streaming over their shoulders in wild luxuriance.
Some were from India, and were habited in white
turbans and body-wrappers; one carried a large
panther-skin, but each wore a different costume ;
and here and there, either lying on the floor or
leaning against the wall, might be seen a heavy
knotted club, a short spear, or curious old battle-
axe. They saluted us with the usual " Yah hak !"
on entering, and received a trifle when we left
the place.
Of the palace of Shah Abbas, as well as of the
old fort which Hanway mentions as strong and
regular beyond anything he had seen in Persia,
there are no traces save a few mounds of earth ;
the former was situated near the mausoleum just
described, and the latter near the bridge.
About four fursucks hence, among the moun
tains, are the iron mines of Allisherood, where
probably Nadir Shah established his foundry for
cannon and his forges for horse-shoes. They are,
at present, worked on account of the government,

166 LEAVE AUMIL.
under the management of Meerza Agha Khan,
but only during the four winter months. From
what I heard regarding them, the method of work
ing is much the same as that adopted at the
mines in Karadaugh. The ore is found scattered
on or near the surface of the soil, and each work
man takes it from the spot, and in the manner
he finds most convenient, no restrictions being
imposed as to the mode of mining. The iron is
converted into horse-shoes, nails, and cannon-balls ;
which latter, and part of the former, are sent to
Tehraun, and the remainder used in the province.
The metal was said to be inferior to Russian,
and the quantity produced not so great as formerly.
We were told that, a few years previous, a hun
dred thousand cannon-balls were annually cast there.
Aumil is five days' journey from the capital
across the mountains ; the road passes through the
district of Lorijan, situated equi-distant from both
places. Lorijan is inhabited by about five thou
sand families, under Abbas Kooly Khan, a native
chief, who furnishes one thousand foot-soldiers to
the crown.
We left Aumil at nine o'clock, and proceeded
across the plain in a general direction N.E. by E.
The road in most places was very bad, and, having
no guide, we occasionally went wrong, and several
times got into morasses, from which we had great
difficulty in extricating ourselves. We afterwards
learned that there was a much shorter and better
path. The plain, as far as one could judge at
this season, appeared a series of rice-fields divided

GAME. — RICE-MILL. 167
by hedges of brambles and tall reeds, which are
so high and close, that, from the road, the whole
country appeared covered with a thick low jungle.
Many flocks of sheep and goats were feeding ; the
former were of the thin-tailed breed. Here and
there a clump of trees might be seen, marking
the site of a village, though not a house was
anywhere visible ; and the prospect was altogether
dreary and uninteresting, particularly on a damp
cloudy day, such as the present happened to be.
Once or twice we came upon a part of Shah
Abbas' ancient causeway, which is here only to
be distinguished by a few yards of hard paved road,
occasionally interrupting the broken and muddy
track. Throughout Gheelaun, and as far as we
have yet penetrated into Mauzunderoon, this work
is so overgrown by the forest, that scarce a trace
can be found.
During the course of the ride, I saw snipes,
quails, woodcocks, ducks, and quantities of herons
of different kinds ; the wild hogs had left evident
traces of their presence in almost every field, and
we started several jackals. The plain seemed to
abound with game, but as the sky threatened rain,
and we wished to arrive early at Borfroosh, we had
no time to seek it.
On the banks of a small rivulet by the road-side
I observed a rude water-mill for freeing the rice
from its husk. The machinery was of very simple
construction. The trunk of a tree formed an axle,
into one end of which were inserted a number
of boards, placed under a stream and performing

168 ARRIVAL AT BORFROOSH.
the functions of a water-wheel. A few feet from
this, a large block was fastened to the trunk, and
acted as a cog, catching, as it revolved, one end
of a long beam placed at right angles to it, and
having a heavy pestle at the other extremity, which
was lifted up, and, being released from the revolving
cog, fell on the rice placed under it in a hole in the
earth, which served as a mortar ; this machinery
was covered by a thatched shed. I afterwards saw
many of these mills in Mauzunderoon and As
trabad. The general method of separating the rice
from the straw is by trampling it out with horses
or oxen ; but the process above described is requisite
to free it from the husk, which adheres to it most
tenaciously. After a tedious ride of nearly five fursucks, we
came to the Bawbil, two miles from Borfroosh.
Crossing over a fine bridge of nine arches, in capital
repair, built by Mohamed Hassan Khan, father of Agha
Mohamed Khan, we continued a short distance fur
ther over a villanous road, and then entered the town.
Here I was prepared for something superior to
what we had hitherto seen, but was very much
surprised at passing through part of a miserable
bazar, where our horses were up to their girths
in mire ; the ruin and decay on every side plainly
indicating, that, whatever Borfroosh might have
been, its glory had departed, and it was no longer
the flourishing and opulent city described by former
travellers. /
It has generally been called Balfroosh, but in
Persian it is written with a^, reh, and is correctly

OUR QUARTERS. 169
called Borfroosh, meaning a place of commerce,
from " bor," a package, and " froosh," sale.
On arriving at the place which had been de
signed for our accommodation, we found a spacious
house situated between two gardens, very fine to
look at, but on nearer inspection proving, as
usual, half in ruins, and the only habitable rooms
having no glass in the window-frames. As it was
our intention to remain here at least a week,
we insisted that something better should be found,
or we should complain to the Shahzadeh. A long
palaver ensued, in which the Beglerbeg's man,
who had been ordered to find us good quarters,
protested that nothing better was to be procured
in Borfroosh : this place was not like Saree, the
capital ; there were no amaurets, no palaces here.
We interrupted him at this juncture, and begged
leave distinctly to have it understood that we
merely wished for two habitable rooms, no matter
where ; but God preserve us from palaces, as when
ever we had been exultingly told that we were
to take up our quarters in an amauret, so sure
were we to find a large, straggling place, totally
in ruins, and not even fit for our cattle. The
man then said that the town had fallen to decay ;
what could he do ? God help him ! he could not
build a house for us, or he would do it with
the greatest pleasure; and, moreover, with regard
to windows, none of the houses in the town had
glass windows. Finally, the matter was arranged
by their promising, that, if we would remain here
this one evening, every corner of the town should

170 A VISIT FROM THE PRINCE'S MEERZA.
be searched on the following morning for a suitable
lodging. We then endeavoured to make the place
as comfortable as possible, with a secret presenti
ment that, notwithstanding all protestations to the
contrary, this would be our apartment as long as
we remained in Borfroosh. A fire was lighted,
as it was chilly and I was shivering with an ague :
in a short time we found the room full of smoke,
and, looking for the cause of it, discovered to our
dismay that the fire-place was without a chimney.
When just one remove from suffocation, the fire
was taken away, all the windows and doors thrown
open, and we had recourse to charcoal, which gave
us both a violent headache, and we went to bed
in a miserable plight.
As soon as we were dressed in the morning, we
received a visit from the Prince's Meerza, a jolly,
goodnatured-looking personage, who came to bid us
welcome on the part of his master. He paid us a
variety of compliments, both personal and national ;
expressed his own peculiar happiness at seeing us ;
dropped a word or two in abuse of the Russians,
which he thought must be particularly pleasing;
and concluded by hoping that more suitable quarters
might be procured, as he had heard we were not sa
tisfied with those we now occupied. Presently the
Beglerbeg's man came in, and offered to take one of
our servants to look for a better place, but at the
same time felt confident that it would be to no
purpose. At last, iK being proposed that some
wooden bars should be nailed across the window-
frames, and paper pasted over them instead of glass,

BAUGH-I-SHAH. 171
we agreed to remain, as there appeared no chance
of getting anything better. '
After breakfast, which, with dinner, was regularly
sent every day by the Beglerbeg, at the orders of
the Shahzadeh, we prepared to pay a visit to Ar-
deshir Meerza, a brother of the present Shah by
another mother. All ceremonies having been pre
viously arranged, we mounted our horses, and pro
ceeded towards his dwelling. His court and harem
are at Saree, where he usually resides ; though, as his
revenue is not large, he keeps little or no state. At
this time he was making a tour of his province, pro
bably with a view to the presents he might receive :
he had been here a short time, intending to remain
till after the Moharrem, and had taken up his resi
dence in the palace of the Baugh-i-shah (king's
garden). This is a pleasure-house, situated on an
island in the midst of a small lake, about two miles
in circumference. The water was now low, and
covered with reeds, water-lilies, and other aquatic
plants ; but various small streams, and, I believe, a
communication with the river Bawbil, never allow it
to sink below a certain level. Both a pleasure-house
and the lake were originally constructed by Shah
Abbas ; of the former nothing remains but a few
stone pillars. We crossed the water over a long,
narrow bridge, formed of planks, supported on a
number of brick piers ; part of the woodwork was
new, but the remainder was so rotten and loose that
I momentarily expected it to give way under my
horse's feet. Having, however, safely reached the
island, we passed the present palace, a large house

172 ARDESHIR MEERZA.
with an upper story, and proceeding through part of
the garden, which was planted with cypress and
orange trees, came to a low building, where we dis
mounted, and were ushered into the Prince's apart
ment. It was a small, square room: the ceiling had
partly given way, revealing the bare rafters ; and the
walls, which had originally been of white plaster,
were now of a dirty brown hue, scribbled and
scratched all over. There were four doors, in front
of which four very dirty chintz curtains were sus
pended ; and at one end of the room a stained glass
window, minus several panes, was thrown open. A
painted table, of Russian manufacture, three chairs,
a few carpets, and the cushions on which the Prince
was reclining, completed the entire furniture.
Ardeshir Meerza is a man of middling size, in
clining to corpulency, with a jolly-looking, round
visage, bearing a strong resemblance to the rest of
the royal family. He was dressed in a plain, single-
breasted, drab-coloured coat, buttoned to the throat
by about forty gilt buttons, placed as close together
as possible : round his waist he wore a belt of gold
lace ; and, over all, a dark, plum-coloured cloak. He
was very polite and affable, hoped that we had been
well treated in his territory, and asked many ques
tions regarding our journey. He inquired after all
the English he had known in Persia ; and, the con
versation turning on India and the East India Com
pany, he begged to know whether the report he
had heard that they had killed the " coompanee,"
was the fact or not. We presently ascertained

RECEIVE AND PAY VISITS. 173
that he alluded to the death of Sir William Mac-
naughten. We had heard that the Shahzadeh was a great
drinker, and his weak and bloodshot eyes seemed
confirmatory of the report ; but I could not suppress
a smile, when tea was brought in, to see his servant
draw forth from the recesses of his pocket a black
bottle of rum : we, of course, accepted a little in our
tea, while the Prince held out his already half-empty
cup, which the servant filled to the brim.
Having remained about three-quarters of an hour,
we received a nod from Abbas Kooly Meerza,
another Shahzadeh, who acted as master of cere
monies, and, taking leave of the Prince, returned to
our quarters.
The following day was rainy, but the 30th
proved fine. We had hardly risen when we re
ceived a visit from the Haukim of Borfroosh, Assa-
doollah Khan, and Abbas Kooly Meerza ; the
conversation was on indifferent subjects, principally
regarding our journey, and after remaining about
an hour they departed. Towards evening we
visited the Beglerbeg, Abbas Khan, a man of high
rank, and the Vizier of the Prince. He is a dark-
complexioned, corpulent person, and received us
with peculiar civility. He kept up a brisk fire
of questions regarding England, one of which was
if we had not ships which sail under water, — alluding
to the diving-bell, — in which he thought people
made journeys from place to place below the sur
face. While we were with him, some sportsmen
brought in a fine wild goat, shot on the neighbour-

174 ABBAS KOOLY MEERZA.
ing mountains, which the Khan politely ordered
to be sent to our quarters. After remaining nearly
two hours, we returned home, and paid a visit to
the master of the house we occupied, from whom
we understood that the Prince wished to ask us to
dinner, but that he was puzzled about knives and
forks ; we begged, however, that he might be
informed that we could eat with our fingers, and
that he must not inconvenience himself on our
account. The last day of the year dawned bright and
glorious, and we breakfasted in the open air in
the garden. During the morning we received
several visits : first came a merchant, who talked
of trade ; then a Moollah, who talked of religion ;
and then a Meerza, a Khan, and some others.
In the afternoon we returned Abbas Kooly
Meerza's visit. This prince, a nephew of the pre
sent Shah, was a most agreeable person, and took
our fancy amazingly. He was very poor, and we
found him in a wretched little room waited upon
by two other young Shahzadehs. Throughout
Mauzunderoon and Astrabad, the native country
of the Cadjers, almost every other man you meet
is a Shahzadeh ; but most of them, not being pos
sessed of a single tomaun, are consequently not
regarded with any great degree of respect. During
our visit we were shown some fine falcons; and
Abbas Kooly Meerza politely offered to hawk a
crow the next morning, and proposed a day's
pheasant shooting some little distance from the
town, if agreeable to us : we expressed our thanks

LOVELY SCENERY. 175
and willingness ; but, as our time was pretty well
occupied during the remainder of our stay at
Borfroosh, the idea was dropped. After taking
leave, we strolled towards the Baugh-i-shah. It was
a lovely sunset, and the scene was altogether beau
tiful ; the snow-capped peak of Demawund in the
back-ground rising far above the long chain of
distant hills which bound the province. In a short
time we were joined by Abbas Kooly Meerza, and,
having lingered on the banks of the little lake till
long after sun-down, returned home.

176

CHAPTER X.
Aide-i-Koorban. — The Prince receives a Khalaat from Tehraun.
— Ride out to witness the Investiture. — Return to Town 
Borfroosh. — Causes of its decay. — The Streets. — Bazars. —
Situation  Extent. — Revenue. — Trade. — We obtain a Bath. —
Remarks. — The Province of Mauzunderoon. — Its Situation —
Appearance. — Wild Animals. — Districts. — Salary of the Go
vernor. — Inhabitants. — Military Force. — Language of the Pea
santry. — Wandering Tribes. — Productions. — Rice. — Sugar. —
Cotton. — Grain. — Fruits. — The Revenue. — Administration. —
Roads. — Rivers. — Fish  Climate. — Similarity to India. — In
vitation to a Hog -hunt. — The River Bawbil  Dine with
Ardeshir Meerza. — The Decorations of the Table. — The
Prince's Drawings. — Dinner. — Persian Music and Musicians.
— Daoud Meerza. — The Zil-i-Sultaun. — Take Leave.
Jan. 1st, 1844. — The morning was lovely, and
I strolled towards the Baugh-i-shah and made a
sketch of it. On returning, I found our attend
ants slaughtering sheep, it being their Aide-i-
Koorban, or feast of sacrifice, which is held in
commemoration of the intended sacrifice of Isaac.
An old Moollah was present, who mumbled a few
sentences of prayer; at one particular period of
which he made a sign to our cook, Ismael, who
gave the animals a most ferocious gash across the
throat, nearly severing the head from the body.
In the afternoon we rode out to see the Shah
zadeh put on a khalaat, or dress of honour, which

THE PRINCE RECEIVES A KHALAAT. 177
had arrived for him from Tehraun. It is customary
for the person to whom the dress is sent to meet
the bearer of it a short distance from the town.
In some places there is a house built for the
purpose, called a khalaat-pooshaun, as at Tabreez;
but, where there is none such, the nearest village
on the road by which the messenger arrives is
generally the appointed place. A khalaat may
be anything, — a jewelled sabre, a dagger, a shawl,
or a shawl-kaba, (Persian coat,) which is put on
in great form and worn during the remainder of
the day. We arrived too late to witness the cere
mony of investiture. When we came into the
Prince's presence, he was seated in a small open
hut, with his minister, Abbas Khan, who had also
received a khalaat ; that sent the Prince was a
shawl-dress and a jewelled sabre, the Khan's was
merely the former. The floor was spread with
trays of sweetmeats, and beyond them stood a
man bearing a sword. Outside were three or four
pehlivans (wrestlers), who appeared to have just
concluded an exhibition of strength, as they re
tired directly we were seated. A poet was then
introduced, who recited from a piece of paper
some lines of his own composition, in praise of
the Prince : he was a droll-looking old fellow,
without a tooth in his head ; and the contortions
of his features, and the manner in which he mouthed
his verses, were ridiculous in the extreme. When
he had concluded, he laid the manuscript at the
Prince's feet, who gave him the usual " Barikellah,
barikellah !" (Well done !) and made the little man
N

178 CEREMONY OF INVESTITURE.
hold his head at least three inches, higher, by
observing that he was a perfect Saadi. Just as
we were about to go, a dervish came forward
and began shouting out an Arabic prayer | the
feroshes and other attendants of the Shahzadeh
endeavoured to silence him, but to no purpose;
" It is a prayer," said he ; " it must be spoken."
In about a quarter of an hour he concluded, and
the people who understood him seemed to be
much edified; a shaking of heads took place, and
" Khoob, bussior khoob !" (Good, very good !) was
muttered among the crowd. The dervish received
a piece of gold, and we all rose to depart. A
considerable number of lookers-on had assembled,
and there was a general movement. The state
exhibited on the occasion was rather imposing.
One cracked bugle was sounded, producing a note
something between a penny trumpet and a trom
bone ; a man with a dirty uniform and a rusty
sword paraded about and saluted ; and three or
four feroshes shouted to everyone to get out of
the way, whereupon everybody elbowed his neigh
bour's ribs, and the Prince mounted his horse. We
rode by his side, and on the way back he chatted
gaily on different subjects; spoke about drawing,
and said that he was something of a draughts
man himself; he asked us to dine with him the
next evening, and requested that I would bring
my sketch-book with me. Crowds of people from
the town met us on the road to congratulate the
Shahzadeh, and " Mobarek bashed !" (May it be
fortunate !) resounded on all sides. Having accom-

BORFROOSH. 179
panied the Prince nearly as far as his residence,
we took leave and returned to our lodgings.
The prosperity of Borfroosh seems to have gradu
ally declined since it ceased to be wholly a city
of merchants. Formerly the management of affairs
was in their own hands; the Haukim and his as
sistants were merchants, and, it being their in
terest not to oppress their fellow-traders, the place
was rich and prosperous ; when, however, the em
ployes of government were introduced, exactions,
petty extortions, and a long train of consequent
evils ensued, which soon affected the trade : but
the great and immediate cause of its present
ruinous condition was the plague before alluded
to, which, after desolating Gheelaun, and having
ravaged the western shores of the Caspian, spread
rapidly through Mauzunderoon and Astrabad, and
finally attacked the Toorcomans, when it ceased for
want of more victims. Not a single town, and
very few villages, escaped ; and the number of people
who died at Borfroosh, from the accounts kept
by the Moollahs, was estimated at about eighty
thousand. The streets, which only twenty years
ago were neat and clean, bespeaking an opulent
and well-ordered town, are now in a condition
that I have not seen equalled in the meanest vil
lages through which we have passed ; they are
totally broken up, and no attempt is ever made to
repair them. The bazars, which are described by
Fraser as extending for a mile, and by far better
filled than those of Isphahaun, consisting of " sub
stantially built shops," and " kept in excellent repair,"
N 2

180 BAZARS.
now exhibit a melancholy contrast to this eulogium ;
a few minutes' walk takes the traveller through all
that remains. Only part is roofed, and that is full of
holes and falling to decay. From the line of shops
branch off two or three caravanserais, chiefly occupied
by merchants, of whom there are about twenty-five,
carrying on the trade with Russia and the interior,
besides about a hundred other petty traders, who are
mere shopkeepers. Altogether the bazars now con
tain between five and six hundred shops ; of these
not more than two hundred are well supplied, and
those chiefly with articles of local consumption and
manufacture, while a few are furnished with British
and Russian goods. The whole bazar at present
extends about a quarter of a mile, and is generally
pretty well thronged with people. Beyond it are
some wretched sheds, but we found the streets quite
impassable on account of the mud ; and on first
entering the bazar is a line of ruined and unoccu
pied shops, making the whole former extent per
haps a little more than half a mile. The greater
part presents a sickening picture of desolation and
decay, heightened in the present instance by the
idea I had formed of the opulence and prosperity of
the place.
Borfroosh is situated in the midst of a flat coun
try, some twelve or thirteen miles from the moun
tains, and a like distance from the sea-shore, and is
surrounded on all sides by cultivation of rice, sugar,
and cotton : it is built amidst tall forest-trees, in the
same manner as Resht ; and as the houses are small,
and stand in separate groups, it is difficult to be-

REVENUE. — TRADE. 181
lieve oneself walking in a large town, and impossi
ble to guess at its extent from a hasty observation.
At present it is said to contain about twelve thou
sand houses, and is divided into thirty-two maba-
lehs or parishes. It possesses sixteen or seventeen
medressehs, and several smaller caravanserais besides
those adjoining the bazars. There are no ancient
buildings or antiquities to attract the attention or
the traveller, and in its present miserable condition
Borfroosh ill repays the fatigue and labour of get
ting over the execrable roads which lead to it.
The legitimate annual revenue of the town of
which account is taken is 1735* tomauns; but by
a little gentle squeezing on the part of the Prince,
and the Haukim, Assadoollah Khan, it is made to
amount to 3000 tomauns. The latter receives no
regular salary, and has in a great measure to depend
on his talents in this way for his subsistence. The
revenue derived from the district, independent of
that of the town, amounts to about 8270 tomauns
in money, besides a proportion of produce in kind.
Borfroosh is still the chief commercial town of
Mauzunderoon, from which the others principally
derive their supplies, and from which the produc
tions of the country are exported to the neigh
bouring provinces. From Astrabad the returns are
in soap, nummuds (felts), and chools (horse-cover
ings), manufactured by the Toorcomans. From
Tehraun are received British manufactures and
those of the interior of Persia ; prints from Ispha-
* See Appendix (B.)

182 OBTAIN A BATH.
haun ; velvets from Cashan, and great quantities of
dried fruits ; and from the neighbourhood of Ha
madan, galls, which are exported to Russia. To
Gheelaun a great deal of rice and sugar is sent from
all parts of the coast in large boats, a considerable
portion of the former being in transit for Tabreez
and the interior, through Enzellee ; the returns are
in silk and some European goods. The trade with
Russia passes through Meshed-i-sir (the port of
Borfroosh), where there is a custom-house.
From all I heard it would appear that the trade
has fallen off materially since the plague, but I am
inclined to think that former accounts of it have
been highly exaggerated. The imports from the
interior of Persia must have been for the supply of
Mauzunderoon, and Astrabad, with the Toorkoman
tribes in its vicinity, and for export to Russia ; but
from the small size of the two provinces, and the
avaricious and despotic nature of their governors,
they could never have created any very extensive
commerce. The trade with Russia seems not to
have been important, though that power has used
all her endeavours to encourage its extension.
The annual demand at present seldom exceeds a
few small ship-loads.
In the evening, after dark, we went to a capital
bath. We had not expected to obtain one here,
having heard so much of the bigotry of the peopled
but we found on inquiry that no difficulty was
made. The idea of the uncleanliness of Christians
is rapidly giving way in Persia to more civilized
notions ; and their other religious prejudices seem

REMARKS. 183
to be generally growing weaker, particularly among
the higher classes, who have had opportunities of
becoming acquainted with Europeans. Ignorance
and bigotry go hand in hand; and as among the
lower grades of the people ignorance is incon
ceivably profound, so I should have concluded the
bigotry to have existed in an equal degree, but I
must say that we saw little or none of it. Through
out Mauzunderoon and Gheelaun, which. are gene
rally considered the very nurseries of intolerance,
we experienced nothing but the most civil and
polite attentions ; the people sat with us, shook our
hands, ate with us, offered us their kalleoons, and
never by the slightest word or gesture showed that
they considered us nedjis (unclean). It is true that
our intercourse was for the most part with the
upper classes, those bred about the Court, and
whose politeness would have prevented any expres
sion of such a feeling ; but, even when we have
come in contact with the poor, we have invariably
found them kind and hospitable, and a peculiar
respect for the Inglese seems to exist among them.
It is possible that this may give rather too favour
able an idea of the peasantry, but I merely speak of
them as we found them ; and it is not improbable
that a party of ten or twelve well-armed attendants
following in our rear very often suggested, if it did
not entirely command, the respect and hospitality
we received.
Mohamedanism and bad government are the two
effectual bars to the prosperity and civilization of
Persia; but, with the cleverness which no one can

184 THE PROVINCE OF MAUZUNDEROON.
deny to the natives, — were the former divested of its
strongest prejudices, and the latter more imbued
with a spirit of philanthropy and liberality, — Persia
would rapidly advance in prosperity, instead of, as
at present, becoming more impoverished and feeble
each successive year. The people are naturally
quick, willing to learn, and in imitative talent, I
should think, not inferior to any nation in the
world : but the oppressive nature of the govern
ment, and the insecurity of property, put a stop to
amelioration ; and he who attempts improvement
may often see the fruits of his labour taken from
him, and, instead of deriving any advantage from it,
may find himself in a worse condition than before.
It may not be out of place to say a few words
regarding the province generally.
In writing down the names of places I have
hitherto endeavoured, as nearly as possible, to fol
low the sounds as pronounced by the inhabitants,
and Mauzunderoon both gives the general pronun
ciation, and follows closely the etymology ; it being
from an old Persian word " Mauz," a mountain,
and " underoon" or " anderoon," the" inside, meaning
the country within the mountains. It is a narrow
tract of land extending along part of the southern
shore of the Caspian, which forms its northern
boundary ; to the south and west lay the chain of the
Elburz ; on the north-west it is bounded by Ghee
laun, and on the east by Astrabad. In some places
the mountains advance to within a mile of the
shore ; but about Borfroosh, the widest part of the
province, they recede some twenty-six miles from

INHABITANTS. 185
the sea. The intervening country is flat, and here
and there covered with jungle, though the greater
part is occupied in the cultivation of rice, sugar,
and cotton ; the villages are very numerous. The
mountains are also well populated, and clothed with
forests abounding with wild beasts ; among others,
the royal tiger, panther, bear, wolf, goat, and deer
of different kinds, and the wild pig, are found in
vast quantities. Pheasants, woodcocks, and wild
ducks are abundant all over the province.
Besides the districts of Tennacorben, Kellauris-
tauk, and Coojoor, Mauzunderoon is divided into
six mahalehs or districts named after their chief
towns or large villages, as follows : —
Aumil; Borfroosh; Meshed-i-sir; Saree; Ash
reff; and Ferrabad; which are again subdivided
into a number of petty parishes.
Saree is the capital of the province, and the resi
dence of the Prince Ardeshir Meerza and his Court.
He is not able to maintain much state, his salary
being only 4000 tomauns ; though to this may be
added 3000 to his wife and two sons, making alto
gether 7000 tomauns, or 3500Z.
The inhabitants of Mauzunderoon are principally
a native population. They furnish to government
about twelve thousand foot-soldiers, armed with
rifles or common guns, mostly with flint-locks,
though some have match-locks. About two thou
sand men are always at Tehraun with the Shah,
and, I believe, are paid from the royal treasury.
The remainder are supposed to be in readiness to
march when required : meanwhile they live with

186 PRODUCTIONS.
their families, and follow their usual occupations.
They are exempt from taxation, and each man's pay
is ten tomauns a year. This, however, is merely
nominal, for, though more than half the revenue is
withheld from the Shah for the purpose, it would
not nearly suffice if it were thus applied ; and, more
over, what is retained is generally kept by the
officers. The language of the peasantry is the Persian,
but many also speak a dialect of the Turkish.
There are several branches of different wandering
tribes* to be found in Mauzunderoon, who have
renounced their old migratory habits, and, having
given up their tents, 'are scattered about in various
villages and towns. Their whole number is said to
amount to about fifty thousand, and they furnish
the cavalry force of the province — some five thou
sand men. They are all exempt from taxation
in consideration of this military service.
The productions of Mauzunderoon are chiefly
rice, sugar, cotton, a little silk, and a variety of
fruits. I found no one who could give me any
information as to their yearly produce ; sometimes
guesses were- made, but these differed so. widely,
that they only served to show that nothing was
really known. Rice, however, is produced in great
quantities : it is of four qualities ; the amberboo ;
zarek or gherdeh ; serdeh ; and shawdek. The
amberboo is most esteemed, and its present price
was three kurrauns for ten mauns-tabreez (equal
to 3s. for 65 lbs. English) : the remaining three
* See Appendix (C.)

FRUITS. 187
qualities bear one value, two kurrauns and fifteen
shahees (2s. 9d. for 65 lbs). These prices were
considered high, the amberboo being sometimes as
low as two kurrauns. Great quantities are sent to
Tehraun, Gheelaun, Casveen, Tabreez, and Russia ;
and it forms also the principal food of the inhabit
ants. The sugar is mostly consumed in the pro
vince ; a considerable portion, however, is exported
to Gheelaun, and some to Russia. The cotton is
used in native manufactures, and some is also sent
to Gheelaun ; the price was between seven and
eight tomauns per khalwar of forty mauns-tabreez,
or 31. 10s. and M. for 260 lbs. The silk is com
paratively in small quantity, and of inferior quality
to that of Gheelaun ; it is used in native manufac
tures mixed with cotton. Beans, wheat, and bar
ley are grown in the mountainous districts, and
some flax in the lowlands. During the winter a
great many labourers come from the upper country,
and are employed here ; their wages at this season
is about sixpence a day.
The principal fruits are a great variety of the
orange, lemon, and citron species, with most of
which I am totally unacquainted. The Persian
names of some of them are as follows : —
Tousourk. Nawrenghee — the mandarin orange.
Bawdreng — a very large kind of citron, with a
knotty, rough, and thick rind.
Minaw — a fruit in shape something like a pear,
and of a pleasant acid ; the colour both inside and
outside is that of a lemon.

188 FRUITS.
Limou — sweet and sour lemons.
Nawrinje — a bitter orange like the Seville.
Tonsabz \
Bawleng J varieties of
Tawbesh Ghawbee > the
Dawrawbee \ above-named fruits.
Toureng /
Sultaun Murrekebat — a shaddock, I believe;
rather a rare fruit, sometimes weighing six or seven
pounds. These are all evergreens, and in winter give a
lively and cheerful appearance to the gardens,
which are filled with them. A great quantity of
aub-i-nawrinje, the juice of some of the species,
expressed and put into bottles, is sent to the inte
rior, and is used in making sherbets. Besides these
fruits, there are to be found apples, pomegranates,
quinces, pears, peaches, walnuts, grapes, and melons.
The vines are seen climbing the trunks of the
forest-trees, and their stems are sometimes eight
and ten inches in diameter. The appearance of the
melons is here the reverse of those of the upper
provinces of Persia : the water-melon of Mauzunde
roon being long, and of a greenish yellow, like the
ordinary bread-melon; while the bread-melon is a
round, dark, mottled, green fruit, like most water
melons. The revenue of the province amounts altogether
to about 105,000 tomauns ; of this sum,
70,000 are given in tweel to various officers for
the payment of the troops and for
their own salaries.

ADMINISTRATION. — ROADS. 189
7,000 are the salary of the Prince and family.
2,000 are the salary of the Beglerbeg of Saree,
Abbas Khan.
26,000 are given away in berauts and pensions to
persons who have no connection with
the province.

105,000
Nothing whatever goes to the treasury ; and I
have heard it said that money is paid out of it on
account of Mauzunderoon, though for what and in
what manner it was not easy to discover.
The administration is entirely in the hands of
Ardeshir Meerza, and all the governors of the dif
ferent districts are appointed by him, with the ex
ception of Abbas Khan, the Beglerbeg of Saree,
and Habeboollah Khan, the Governor of Tennacor
ben, Kellauristauk, and Coojoor. The Prince appears
to be generally liked, and the condition of the
peasantry seems to be better than that of the Ghee-
launees ; but of course this varies in different places,
according to the character and disposition of the
sub-governors or landowners.
There are two roads to Tehraun ; one by Ferooz-
koo, which is forty-five fursucks (180 miles), and the
other by Lorijan, thirty-six fursucks (144 miles) :
both are tolerably good. The roads of the interior
are a trifle better than those of Gheelaun, but still
are bad enough to occasion great fatigue and the
destruction of the horses. The only tolerable route,
and which is always adopted by muleteers when
possible, lies along the sands on the sea-shore ; but

190 FISH.
experienced guides are necessary to point out the
fords of the numerous rivers, which are full of
quicksands ; and the fatigue of crossing these
streams may be conceived when the number of them
between Langarood and the Harrauz amounted to
one hundred and thirty-six. In the autumn all are
comparatively small, though some are even then
rapid and above the horses' girths ; but in the sum
mer many of them become tremendous torrents, and
are not passable at all near the shore.
These rivers are all well stocked with fish, which,
with rice, are the principal food of the peasantry,
and which, when salted, are sent to Tehraun and
most other towns of the North of Persia. The
following are the names of some of them: —
Orenje — represented as a very large fish.
Ispek.
Azad-mahee — Caspian salmon and lake trout.
Sefeed-mahee — a kind of mullet.
Kepour — carp.
-Zeledge. Kizzil-ala — trout.
Seg-mahee — literally " dog-fish," as the Persians
call the sturgeon.
Soame — a fish common to the Russian rivers.
I have no idea of what the Orenje, Ispek, or
Zeledge are, never having seen any. There are also
several other kinds of fish, of the names of which
I am ignorant.
The climate of Mauzunderoon may be called a
wet one; nevertheless it is far preferable to that
of Gheelaun. The summers are very hot, and the

SIMILARITY TO INDIA. 191
sudden changes of weather occasion disease. The
winter was delightful, though the present was per
haps too fair a specimen ; nevertheless, from all I
heard, I should think that fine weather generally
predominates. It seldom rains without intermission
for more than three or four days together, whereas
in Gheelaun it sometimes pours for a month ; the
air also is less pernicious than that of the last-named
province, the country not being so thickly wooded.
The inhabitants in some parts, particularly among
the mountains, are fine sturdy fellows ; but those
near the sea, in the low and swampy districts, have
a sallow and sickly appearance.
Judging from what I have heard or read, the south
ern shores of the Caspian bear a striking likeness to
India in many respects. The climate is similar ; the
impenetrable jungle, and many vegetable produc
tions, rice, sugar, and cotton, are common to both
countries. There are the same wild animals, among
which is the royal tiger ; and there is a tradition
that elephants formerly existed in Mauzunderoon.
The domestic cattle are of the humped species.
The general style of building is the same. The
natives have the Indian custom of carrying burdens
over their shoulders by means of a stick, which I
have not seen elsewhere either in Turkey or Persia ;
and, I have no doubt, a person who has lived in
India would discover many other points of re
semblance. Jan. 2nd. This morning we received an invita
tion from our landlord's son to accompany him on
a boar-hunting expedition, which we accepted, and

192 DINE WITH ARDESHIR MEERZA.
started immediately after breakfast. It had been
arranged that we should meet the hunters and
beaters at a small village, the property of his father,
about two miles from the town, and thither we pro
ceeded ; the road lying along the serpentine course
of the river Bawbil. The water is muddy, and
the banks occasionally rise precipitately; forming a
clayey cliff some forty feet above the surface of
the stream. We forded it in one place where it
was about eighty yards broad, but in the deepest
part not above the horses' girths. On arriving at
the village we found a number of ferocious-looking
dogs, and men not less so, armed with boar-spears
and match-locks, which I thought little likely to do
any execution, not then knowing the skill with
which the natives use them. All being prepared,
we set out. Some very likely places were tried
during the day, but with no success ; the only game
we saw being a few pheasants, and these no one
shot at.
In the evening we went to dine with the Prince.
We were shown into the same room as on our first
visit, and found his royal highness seated on a small
rickety chair, at the head of the Russian table
before mentioned. It was covered with various
nondescript little dishes, and saucers of pickles,
chiefly garlic ; there were also two water-bottles of
sherbet, two black bottles conspicuously marked
" London Stout," one of which, however, contained
rum, and several square decanters of Persian wine.
Four glass candlesticks of Russian or German ma
nufacture occupied the corners ; they were ticketed

THE PRINCE'S DRAWINGS. 193
just as they came from the shop ; the tallow ran in
streams upon the table from the candles, which
were all of different lengths ; and, there being no
such convenience as a pair of snuffers, Abbas Kooly
Meerza, who sat at the Shahzadeh's right, occasion
ally snuffed them with his fingers, which he wiped
on the skirts of his dress.
Before commencing the business of the evening,
the Shahzadeh said, he hoped I had not forgotten
to bring my drawings, and begged to see them. He
was somewhat disappointed, having expected to find
them coloured ; but he was pleased with the sketch
of the Baugh-i-Shah, which he recognised imme
diately. He then exhibited some of his own per
formances. One of them was a wild duck, remark
able for the brilliancy of its plumage and its gi
gantic dimensions, as compared with a house two
stories high, which stood close to the edge of the
puddle in which the bird was swimming. There
were also some pretty fair paintings of flowers ; and
a most singular landscape, in which a shepherd
was represented playing a flageolet to a number of
apoplectic sheep with bow legs, — those in the re
mote distance among the mountains being precisely
the same size as those in the foreground. The total
ignorance of all proportion or perspective displayed
in Persian paintings is exceedingly laughable. In
flowers they succeed best ; but even here, if a bulbul
(nightingale) be introduced, it is sure to be either
much too large, or else about four times as small as
the rose-bud near which it may be perched.
A series of different dishes was now brought in
o

194 PERSIAN MUSIC AND MUSICIANS.
by the young Princes in waiting : first, some devilled
bones ; then, after an interval of twenty minutes or
half an hour, another dish of the same description;
and so on till about twelve o'clock, when dinner was
announced, which I thought would have been finish
ed long since, as we had been eating since seven.
o'clock ; but I found that all this was only intended
as a whet to our appetites. The dinner, however, con
sisted simply of a pillo and chillo, and was soon dis
posed of. Ardeshir Meerza was in high spirits, and
laughed and chatted merrily, making occasionally
most vigorous applications to the rum-bottle. His
band of musicians and a singer were in attendance,
who kept up an incessant strumming and shouting
from the time of our arrival to that of our departure,
near two o'clock in the morning. There were three
instrumental performers : one had a kind of drum,
which he beat with his fingers ; another played a
mandolin ; and a third a stringed instrument, placed
on the ground before him, striking the cords with
two small sticks. Persian singing seldom possesses
any melody; and its excellence seems to consist in
noise, and the most violent contortions of the visage,
and exertions Of the lungs in various shakes and
roulades. The instrumental music is, at best,
droning and monotonous, and often most discord
ant. It is curious, when the musicians are expert,
to hear them for the first time, and for a few mi
nutes ; but the inevitable consequence of a pro
longed performance is a head-ache. The black who
played the little drum occasionally danced, if the

DAOUD MEERZA. — THE ZIL-I-SULTAUN. 195
term may be applied to what was merely a series of
indecent postures and grimaces.
The scene was rather amusing as a novelty. The
Prince's great delight was to tease and pull the
beard of one Daoud Meerza, who sat near him on
the ground. This man, a sullen, dark-looking fel
low, the toady of the Prince and the butt of his
jests, is the son of the Zil-i-Sultaun (shadow of
the Sultan), so called from his extreme likeness
to Fath Ali Shah. On the death of that monarch,
the Zil-i-Sultaun was governor of Tehraun, and, hav
ing obtained possession of the royal treasure, pro
claimed himself king, under the title of Adil Shah.
He appears, however, to have been a complete im
becile; for although master of the treasury, in a
country where anything may be done by the power
of money, and where no one has any scruples as to
the manner in which he uses that power, he only
retained possession of the throne for thirty or forty
days. When the present Shah's army approached
Tehraun, the Beglerbeg of the town was ordered to
apprehend Adil Shah ; and, entering his presence in
his own palace, walked up to him with the usual
obeisance, and said, " May it please your Majesty,
you are my prisoner !" Zil-i-Sultaun scratched his
head, stared, and looked rather puzzled ; but at
length coolly replied, " Bussior khoob ; very good,
very good ! I suppose I am — perhaps it is as well
that I should be. It is my destiny ! " and surren
dered, without the slightest attempt at resistance.
He was confined in the fortress at Ardebeel, from
o2

196 TAKE LEAVE.
whence he afterwards escaped by digging through
the mud-walls, and fled to Georgia in company
with two other princes, Alnackee Meerza, the
Rookhn-i-doulet (tower of the state), and Imaum-
verdi Meerza.
Towards one o'clock, it being mentioned that we
intended to go to Meshed-i-sir on the morrow, the
Prince called for his Meerza, and ordered him to
write a letter to ensure us good accommodation;
and told our head-servant to send in the morning,
and he would furnish us with rum and wine for our
journey. Dinner having been protracted to a te
dious length, we departed; the Shahzadeh inviting
us to dine with him again on our return from
Meshed-i-sir.

197

CHAPTER XI.
Road to Meshed-i-sir. — Sheep. — Meshed-i-sir. — The Trade. —
Sturgeon Fishery — Method of catching Wild Fowl — Duck
Shooting. —The Imaumzadeh Ibrahim. — Dine again with the
Prince. — Abbas Kooly Khan. — The Amusements of the Even
ing. — Miserable Condition of our Horses. — The Prince and
Court intoxicated at Mid-day. — Road to Alleeabad. — Alleeabad.
— Departure. — The Causeway. — Beautiful Scenery. — Surkeh-
kellaw. — The Causeway again. — Arrive at Saree. — The Palace.
— Description of Saree  Fortifications. — Ancient Buildings. —
The Goombuz-i-Selm-i-Toor. — Aub-ambars. — The Bazars. —
The Streets.^— Caravanserais. — Trade. — Tribes inhabiting Saree.
On the morning of the 3rd, we started for Me
shed-i-sir. The road, which was comparatively good
and dry, lay in general along the banks of the
Bawbil. We passed several bean-fields, and also
saw some flax ; a considerable quantity of which is
produced here, and both used in native linen manu
factures, and sent to various parts of Persia and As
trachan. There is but little cotton, and no rice or
sugar cultivated in the immediate neighbourhood,
on account of a scarcity of water ; the Bawbil lying
too far below the level of the country to be used for
the purposes of irrigation, and there being no other
large streams in the vicinity. The country appeared
well populated ; and we passed through four large
villages, one called Humza Koolla, one Ameer

198 MESHED-I-SIR.
Koolla, and the two others both named Bauzinar.
Near Meshed-i-sir we saw many flocks of sheep,
which belonged to the Eeliauts, who bring them
down to the lowlands to pasture during the winter,
and return with them to the mountains in the sum
mer. The sheep were of the short-tailed breed ; the
fat-tailed species not thriving in these wooded and
damp provinces. They have several times been
brought here, but have invariably sickened and died
in a few months. We arrived at Meshed-i-sir early
in the afternoon, and found that very tolerable
lodgings had been prepared, in compliance with the
Prince's orders, which had preceded us. The dis
tance from Borfroosh is three fursucks.
Having inspected our apartments, we sallied forth
to see the place. Before we had walked many hun
dred yards, we were overtaken by Aga Meer Bo-
zurk, the customer and head-man of the village, ac
companied by one Hadgee Meer Aboo Talib, who
was here on leave of absence from the Russian uni
versity at Cazan, where he is professor of Persian :
they joined us, and we strolled together towards the
place where goods are landed. There are a few
sheds on the eastern bank, and several large single-
masted boats were busily employed in unloading
their cargoes, just brought from a Russian vessel
lately arrived, which lay off the mouth of the river.
The ground was strewed with various packages,
blocks and plates of copper, kegs of butter, cases
of kalleoon bottles, painted boxes filled with hard
ware, glassware, or Russian manufactures, and num-

THE TRADE. 199
bers of iron caldrons destined for the Toorcomans.
It seemed odd that the latter articles were not
rather shipped direct to Astrabad, but we were told
that there were few or no merchants there to re
ceive them ; and, as the land-carriage from hence
was very cheap, this was altogether the most conve
nient place for debarkation.
This village, the only port of Mauzunderoon,
consists of about one hundred and fifty meanly built
houses, situated at the mouth of the Bawbil. Ships
of burden are not able to enter the river, but re
main about two miles in the offing, and their car
goes are landed in the above-mentioned boats. The
revenue collected from the district and village of
Meshed-i-sir amounts altogether to about 3700 to
mauns, of which about 2700 are derived from the
custom-house ; the remainder is from some irregu
lar taxes.
The trade is principally with Russia, through As
trachan. The goods imported from that place are
iron, copper, hardware, loaf-sugar, painted boxes,
dyewoods, glassware, china and paper. No regular
accounts are kept of the yearly quantities of these
different articles ; and the customer, though he most
likely knew pretty accurately the general amount,
evidently wished to say as little as possible on the
subject, and professed ignorance. The whole trade,
however, only employs annually from four to five
ships of between an hundred and thirty and an hun
dred and sixty tons' burden. From Bakoo three or
four large boats arrive every year with naphtha, and

200 STURGEON FISHERY.
some is also brought from Cheriken, on the Toorco
man coast; but it is of inferior quality, and the
colour is lighter than that from Bakoo.
We were told that about 24,000 poots of the
following productions and manufactures were annu
ally exported to Astrachan.
Cotton, rice, and a little sugar, from the province.
Galls, from Hamadan.
Dried fruits, from all the interior.
Prints and manufactures, from Isphahaun.
Kerbauz, a coarse native manufacture of Mauzunr
deroon. Bedornah, pips of the wild quince used in medi
cine. Rice and sugar are also exported to Gheelaun in
great quantities, both from Meshed-i-sir and all the
rivers along the coast, in large boats.
The duty levied on both imports and exports is
the same ; being on iron and dried fruits four shahees
thirty dinars per poot, and for all other merchandise
seven shahees thirty dinars. The dinar is an imagi
nary coin, of which, I believe, there are a thousand
to a shahee.
There is a small fishery of the sturgeon at the
mouth of the river, which is rented, with several
others along this coast, by an Armenian named
Stepan, who resides chiefly at Ferrabad on the
Thedjin, where is the principal fishery.
We had heard that a curious method of catching
wild fowl at night by means of a torch was prac
tised here, and wished very much to have witnessed
it this evening ; but unfortunately the moon shone

METHOD OF CATCHING WILD FOWL.

201

brightly, and it could only be managed on the dark
est nights. In the morning, however, having risen
early with the intention of shooting some ducks, we
were shown the whole apparatus, which was very
ingenious. Two men and a boy embark in a small
canoe. One man sits astern and directs it ; the
boy is placed in the centre with a small circular
plate of bell-metal, which he beats with rapidly
repeated blows of a stick ; and the other man stands

in the fore-part of the boat, behind an apparatus
fitting into the bows, made of wood and felt, having
a little hearth of clay on which the fire is placed,
the fuel being some tow or cotton dipped in naph
tha. Behind the fire is a screen, which bends for
wards, throwing the light entirely on the water
before the boat, and casting all surrounding objects
into deeper darkness. The ducks, frightened by the
noise and dazzled by the glare, remain motionless

202 METHOD OF CATCHING WILD FOWL.
on the surface. The man behind the screen holds
in his hand a net, fixed so as to hang loosely be
tween two long and stout canes : this he claps over
his astonished victims, and, giving it a sudden turn
in the water, lifts them out ; when, holding the canes
upright, they fall into the bag of the net. The
moment the splash is heard, the remainder of the
ducks rise ; and at first flying about bewildered,
sometimes into the light, and sometimes against the
men in the boat, finally contrive to make a retreat
to some other spot. Meanwhile, the sportsman
quickly takes those he has caught from the net, and
twisting their wings one in the other, and their legs
over their backs, throws them into the bottom of
the boat, and moves off in pursuit of another flock.
It will perhaps be thought that twisting the birds'
necks, instead of their wings and legs, would be
both a quicker and surer mode of disposing of
them ; but the latter operation is performed with
incredible rapidity, and it is to be remembered that
each duck must have its throat cut in the orthodox
manner, with its head towards Mecca for the good
of its soul, or it would not be proper food for a
correct Mussulman.
We were told that one of these boats would
often, on a favourable night, bring in as many as
fifty wild fowl ; the greater part being bald coots,
with which the swamps abound. There are twelve
or thirteen boats here ; and, the place not possessing
much cultivation, they furnish the principal part of
the subsistence of the inhabitants. A pair of bald
coots sell for about 2%d., and a couple of ducks for

DUCK-SHOOTING. 203
3|«?. The manner of lifting the birds out of the
water was exemplified by oranges, which represented
the ducks. We afterwards embarked, each in a
separate boat, and accompanied by our friends of
the previous evening, the Hadgee and the customer,
proceeded to the open moordaubs to see what could
be effected by powder and shot.
We found immense quantities of wild fowl, the
water being literally blackened with them ; but
they were exceedingly difficult of approach, as they
rose whenever the boats came within an hundred
yards of them. Perceiving this, I separated from
the party, and ran my canoe into a clump of high
reeds ; where being concealed, the ducks flew over
me in myriads, but so close that I continually
missed them. I killed several, which I found to be
widgeon of different kinds ; but, my ammunition
being soon exhausted, I returned homewards. On
my way I fell in with the rest of the party, and was
exceedingly surprised to see how well the old pro
fessor and the customer handled their clumsy
match-locks. They each killed fifteen or twenty bald
coots, all flying shots. These birds allow themselves
to be approached much nearer than the ducks.
The sea is said to have receded here very consi
derably during the last six years. The backwater
has consequently decreased, and the people com
plained of a comparative scarcity of wild fowl.
The only building of any kind of interest at
Meshed-i-sir is a small brick Imaumzadeh, with a
conical spire, standing on the brink of the swamp,
and at a distance looking very much like an English

204 DINE AGAIN WITH THE PRINCE.
country church. It is the burial-place of Imaum
Ibrahim, brother of the Imaum Reza, also called the
Imaumi-jewaub (Imaum of the answer), from a story
of bis having, when on a visit to the tomb of Mo
hamed at Mecca, received from the shrine an audi
ble answer of " Aleikoom Salaam," in return for the
" Salaam Aleikoom " with which he saluted it.
As we were engaged this evening to dine again
with Ardeshir Meerza, we had no more time to
delay here, and, having despatched a late breakfast,
left Meshed-i-sir at about half after one o'clock.
During our ride back to Borfroosh we started
several jackals ; but our dogs could not catch them,
on account of the jungle. There are immense num
bers of these animals everywhere in Gheelaun and
Mauzunderoon ; they are taken here in traps by the
Russians for the sake of their skins.
As rain fell while on the road, we arrived at
Borfroosh nearly wet through: however, the weather
soon cleared up again, and we rode over to the
Baugh-i-Shah. The dinner was a repetition of that of the former
evening, but even more tedious, since it had not
novelty to recommend it ; and the misery of sitting
at table on a small rush-bottomed kitchen-chair,
without stirring from seven in the evening till three
in the morning, is much easier imagined than
described. Just as we were seated, Abbas Kooly
Khan, Sirdar (General), the chief of Lorijan, came
in : he was invited to join us, and sat on the ground
beside Daoud Meerza. The General was a fine
handsome man, and seemed very merry and fond of

ABBAS KOOLY KHAN. 205
fun. The Shahzadeh was also in high spirits, which
increased in proportion as the contents of the rum-
bottle decreased ; and the chief amusement of both
himself and his guests was, as before, making a butt
of Daoud Meerza. Abbas Kooly Khan would
endeavour to keep him in earnest conversation,
while the Prince stuck goose-quills in his cap, and
encouraged the young imps of Princes, who were
waiting at table, to pin pieces of paper to his dress.
At last Daoud pretended to be annoyed, and, start
ing from the ground, made a rush to the door,
exclaiming, " What dirt have I eaten that I came
here ? Wahi ! Wahi ! " The servants were told to
hold him, and bring him back ; and a great scuffle
ensued, in which all rolled on the floor, and nearly
upset the dinner-table, to the great amusement of
the party. All this, and the various jokes cut upon
him and his answers thereto, kept the Prince, the
General, and Abbas Kooly Meerza in one continual
roar of laughter the whole evening. During dinner
a live jackal, taken in a trap, was brought in. We
asked Ardeshir Meerza what he intended to do
with it. " Oh," he replied, " I don't know : some
times we cut them in pieces with our swords, and
sometimes we rub them over with naphtha and set
fire to them." An approving buzz went round at
the mention of this last humane pastime, and the
naphtha appeared to be the decided fate of the
unfortunate victim before us ; but on our interces
sion, which seemed quite incomprehensible to some
of our friends, the Shahzadeh promised that the beast
should be killed in a less cruel manner, and on the

206 MISERABLE CONDITION OF OUR HORSES.
morrow we saw its skin in the bazar, its throat
having been cut. In the meantime, however, it
was necessary to prevent its escape, and Abbas
Kooly Meerza rising from table sewed up its eyes ;
which operation being performed to his entire satis
faction, he resumed his seat.
This little incident had for a moment interrupted
the boisterous merriment of the party, but it was
soon renewed with increased spirit : endless suc
cessions of paper pigtails were affixed to the un
happy Daoud ; quills were stuck in his jcap, till he
was tired with making resistance; and the room
shook with the loud and reiterated peals of laughter.
As I looked on the absurd scene, it was difficult
to regard the Prince, his General, and the master
of ceremonies as more than a pack of bearded chil
dren, and I rather wondered that they were not
ashamed of making such an exhibition of them
selves before strangers ; but something must be at
tributed to the numerous empty bottles lying either
on or under the table. We were delighted when
all was over, and returned home, devoutly hoping
never more to be subjected to such dinner-parties.
Jan. 6. This morning we had intended to start
for Saree, but postponed our departure a day longer,
as our head-groom represented that our horses would
be much better for another day's rest. Out of ten
or eleven riding-horses, there were not more than
three or four without sore backs, as the stuffing of
our saddles, from pressure and damp, had become as
hard as a board ; and, as soon as one sore healed,
a fresh one made its appearance. Some of the ani-

ROAD TO ALLEEABAD. 207
mals' legs too, as high as the knees, were entirely
denuded of hair, from the continual deep mud ;
though I imagine this was caused more by the con
stant endeavours of the grooms to keep them clean,
than by any peculiar quality of the clay itself.
During the course of the afternoon we sent our
head-servant to the Baugh-i-Shah, to inquire about
the man to be appointed to accompany us to As
trabad. Hussein's astonishment, however, was un
speakable at finding the Prince and his whole court
profoundly drunk ! The guide, however, made his
appearance in the evening.
Jan. 7. Just as we had made our preparations
for departure, we received a farewell visit from Ab
bas Kooly Meerza ; and having repeatedly thanked
him for his own kindness, and the flattering at
tentions of the Shahzadeh, we started at about
twelve o'clock for Alleeabad, a village about half
way between Borfroosh and Saree. The road lay
through alternate jungle and rice-fields, along the
remains of Shah Abbas' famous causeway. This,
for an occasional two or three hundred yards, was
almost as good as new ; but the remainder was
broken up, or, wherever it had been disused for a
short time, totally overgrown by the encroaching
jungle, and the path turned aside among the neigh
bouring swamps, as each passenger found it most
practicable. At about ten miles from Borfroosh
we forded the river Torlor, now almost dry : the
bed is nearly three hundred and fifty yards across.
After a ride of twelve miles, fatiguing to the
horses on account of the deep mud, we entered

208 SHAH ABBAS' CAUSEWAY.
Alleeabad. It is said to contain about four hun
dred houses ; but only a few stalls forming a bazar,
surrounded by some miserable huts, are visible.
The village belongs to Allayah Khan, an uncle of
the Shah, and the present governor of Khorassaun,
We were obliged to lodge here in a most miserable
little room, a chamber in a small gateway leading to
an uglylmaumzadeh of Ussuf, a brother of the Imaum
Reza. It was the most . diminutive apartment we
had as yet inhabited, and there was hardly space to
spread our beds. We were somewhat consoled,
however, when we learned that poor Colonel Stod-
dart, Major Tod, and Dr. Bell had all three managed
to pass a night in the same place, though it was
difficult to conceive how.
Jan. 8. We left Alleeabad at about a quarter to
ten, and proceeded along the causeway for about
four miles, when we came to the river Seearoo, a
small stream, which we crossed by means of a bridge.
Wherever there have been water- courses, there have
been originally bridges, which in most places are
now destroyed ; and it is in these parts that the
causeway is so broken up : during to-day's march,
it was in much better condition than between Al
leeabad and Borfroosh. It is of different widths in
different places, but generally about twenty feet,
with a ditch on each side. In one place I measured
forty-five feet between the ditches; but these were
considerably beyond the edge of the actual pave
ment, which was not more than twenty feet.
After passing the Seearoo we turned off into the
forest, and, having crossed several large patches of

BEAUTIFUL SCENERY. 209
rice-swamp, arrived at the village of Afra Koote,
the property of the Governor of Kborassaun ; and
three miles further on we came to Arateh, belong
ing to a government scribe at Astrabad. They are
both large, straggling places ; and the latter is beau
tifully situated at the foot of the hills, where the
scenery very much reminded me of some of the
wooded districts of England, except that the mag
nificent mountains in the back-ground far surpassed
anything to be seen there. The low hills in the
immediate vicinity, covered with trees, among which
the beech was conspicuous, still retaining its brown
leaves — the well-regulated fields, neatly enclosed
with wattled hedges — the crops of barley, wheat,
and beans, newly springing up — and the green open
slopes, dotted with flocks of grazing sheep, alto
gether formed a lovely scene, particularly grateful
to us after the close and damp forest, or the still
more dreary and monotonous extents of rice-swamps,
through which we had lately been travelling. The
sun shone brightly, and the day was warm as in Eng
land at Midsummer ; hardly a cloud was to be seen,
and all was cheerful and gay. Our guide, a funny
little old fellow, was jogging on ahead, spouting
away, much to his own edification, from Saadi or
Hafiz. We should think it curious in England to
hear a coachman or a ploughman repeating Scott
or Byron : but the Persians are naturally fond of
poetry and romance ; and, by hearing the verses of
their favourite bards frequently recited or sung in
their caravanserais and caf^s by wandering minstrels,
the lowest of the people learn a great deal by heart.

210 SURKEH KELLAW.
The idiosyncrasy of our own peasantry is not poeti
cal ; and if you pass by one of their caf6s — a public-
house,— you will most likely hear a rousing chorus,
the most striking part of which is " right fol de
riddle doi, de-riddle day," — which I take to be the
soul of all the music or poetry of the lower classes
at home.
Near the village of Arateh I observed that the
fields which had been lately planted with beans
were covered with small twigs placed upright, from
which a kind of net-work, of thin white twine was
crossed and recrossed in every direction to keep off
the crows. It had a curious appearance, looking
like a huge spider's web. I noticed also several
fields of sugar-cane still uncut. Continuing our
inarch over a beautiful smooth turf along the foot
of the hills, we passed the village of SurkehKellaw:
here all was in preparation for sowing wheat, and
numerous teams of oxen were employed in plough
ing and harrowing.
The peasantry near and among the mountains eat
bread, which is not to be found nearer the sea,
except in large towns ; the principal food being rice
and fish. Some distance farther on, at about two
miles from Saree, we again fell in with the cause
way, along which we continued till we arrived at
the city, altogether about three fursucks distant
from Alleeabad. The causeway is here about twenty
feet wide and in good condition ; it is not paved, as
before, but has the appearance of a good English
country-road. Hanway, or his printer, has made a
mistake between feet and yards, in stating it to be
twenty yards wide.

ARRIVE AT SAREE. 211
We had sent our Gholaum to see about quarters,
and on arriving at Saree were met by five or six
feroshes, sent by the Shahzadeh's Vekeel to clear
the way, and to conduct us to the palace, where
we were to take up our lodgings. After a fruitless
search for a comfortable room, we were obliged to
content ourselves with a side-chamber of the prin
cipal divan-khaneh. There was a door or two want
ing, and no glass in the greater part of the windows ;
the former, however, were procured from some
other room, and as a substitute for the latter we
had recourse to brown paper. This building is part
of a palace erected by Aga Mohamed Khan, who
established himself at Saree when he fled from
Shirauz on the death of Kurreem Khan. It is de
scribed by Fraser as ornamented with various pic
tures, for which we looked in vain ; and, on inquir
ing, were told that the General, Abbas Kooly Khan,
whom we met at Borfroosh the last evening we
dined with Ardeshir Meerza, was one night lodged
here with some of his soldiers when the place acci
dentally caught fire. Some gunpowder they had
with them exploded during the conflagration and
blew off the roof, leaving little but the bare walls
standing. The present structure is of brick, and
was erected by Ardeshir Meerza on the plan of the
former one, but without any interior decorations;
some of the chambers are stuccoed, though most of
them appear to have been left unfinished, and are
already falling to pieces. In front of the divan-
khaneh, which is still used as the audience-hall of
the Prince, is a garden of orange, cypress, plane,
p 2

212 DESCRIPTION OF SAREE.
and other trees ; among which a fine old palm stands
conspicuous, the only one I have seen in this part of
Persia. In the centre is a long narrow stone reser
voir, partially filled with stagnant water, and fur
nished with a row of jets, which, however, have
long ceased to play ; and immediately opposite is a
large ruinous pile over the gateway. Neither this
nor the rest of the palace makes any show ex
ternally, but it appears extensive, consisting of long
low ranges of buildings, containing the anderoon,
baths, stables, and servants' apartments. The whole
is surrounded by a high brick wall, and, if I may
judge of the remainder by the part I have seen, it is
all rapidly going to ruin.
Saree is divided into six mahalehs or parishes, and
is said to contain between six and seven thousand
houses, though I should think the number rather
overrated. It has seven medressehs. The cash
revenue of the town only amounts to about five
hundred tomauns, the greater part of the inhabit
ants being exempt from taxation as soldiers. The
town has originally been surrounded by a ditch and
wall about four miles in circumference, defended at
intervals by square brick towers. The ditch has in
some places a few feet of water, but it is generally
dry; and its sides are so broken down, that there
would be little difficulty in scrambling down one
side and up the other. Except the gateways, very
little of the wall exists : a part of it near the Bor
froosh gate was repaired some twenty years since,
and Fraser says that the work was intended to
have been continued all round, but the repairs only

THE GOOMBUZ-I-SELM-I-TOOR. 213
appear to have been extended a few hundred yards.
Near the above-mentioned gate is a piece of an old
wall, all that remains of the Imaumzadeh Ibrahim,
which was thrown down by an earthquake about
seventeen years ago. Not far distant is another
tomb, of similar construction to what this must
have been, still in tolerable preservation, called the
Imaumzadeh Yaiyah. It is of excellent brickwork,
and is square for some twenty feet high, when it
becomes octangular, and then terminates in a coni
cal spire, which has formerly been covered with
blue glazed tiles, but only a patch of them here and
there now remains. In the interior were three
old chests of beautifully carved wood, containing the
bones of the Imaumzadeh and some of his relations.
These chests were covered with dust, and no care
seemed to be taken either of them or of the build
ing, which is entirely open, and occasionally used as
a shed for cattle. Yaiyah and Ibrahim were sons
of the Imaum Reza.
Fraser supposes that these structures, with one
called the Goombuz-i-Selm-i-Toor, must have been
those taken by Hanway for the temples of the an
cient fire-worshippers : but Hanway could not have
made such a palpable mistake ; and, moreover, he
distinctly describes his four temples of the Guebres
" rotund, as of about thirty feet diameter, raised in
height to a point near a hundred and twenty feet,"
whereas these are partly square, and not more than
fifty feet high. The Goombuz-i-Selm-i-Toor, how
ever, a structure which is described to have been
precisely what Hanway writes, was probably the last

214 AUB-AMBARS.
remaining of the four temples he mentions, and is
now no longer in existence. The greater part was
destroyed by the earthquake already alluded to ; and
some years afterwards Mohamed Kooly Meerza,
then Governor of Mauzunderoon, ordered the de
struction of the remainder. The spot where it for
merly stood is in the middle of the town ; a small
house is built on part of its site, and the whole is
shut out from the street by a wall enclosing the
owner's premises, and connecting them with the ad
joining houses. We were shown the place, but no
trace of the tower is left, save some heaps of rubbish ;
and, in a few years more, the former existence of
such a building will most probably be forgotten by
the inhabitants. It was supposed here to have been
of high antiquity, and the burial-place of the heads
of Selm and Toor, two sons of Feridoon, a famous
Pai'shdadian monarch, surnamed " I Furrokh" or
" the Fortunate," whose latter days were embittered
by their quarrels. They murdered their younger
brother Erij, whose death was avenged by Manu-
chehar, his son — he having slain his uncles in battle,
and caused their heads to be cut off and interred in
this place; and the monument erected over them
was called the Goombuz-i-Selm-i-Toor, or the Tower
of Selm and Toor. No ancient building is now to
be found in Saree, save the Imaumzadeh Yaiyah.
There are ten or fifteen aub-ambars. These are
reservoirs for water, dug deep in the earth, and
covered with a thick, domed roof, just appearing
above ground. They are filled in the winter, and
some salt is thrown in, to preserve the water ; which,
being kept cool during the intense heats of summer,

THE BAZARS. — THE STREETS. 215
is then used by the inhabitants. The entrance is
through a low archway, by an abrupt flight of steps.
These aub-ambars are open to all, having been con
structed as works of charity by different individuals ;
and their convenience is found to be such, that, where
almost everything else is allowed to go to ruin, they
are always kept in good repair.
The bazars are said to contain about three hun
dred and fifty shops ; but, from my own observations,
I should think there were more. Forty of these
belong to dealers in manufactured goods ; a like
number to bakers. The bread here is consumed by
the Toorks, Koords, and other strangers, who com
pose the majority of the population of Saree ; as the
native peasant, accustomed to a rice diet, is unable
to digest bread, " and," said my informant, " dies, if
he eats it for two days together." The remainder of
the shops are green-grocers, corn- dealers, saddlers,
confectioners, cap-makers, shoe-makers, smiths, and
other trades. The shops are tolerably built, and
in some places the passage between the rows is
covered with a roof, in others it is open.
Nearly all the streets are paved, and are the
best I have seen in any town in this part of Per
sia. They were made by a son of Fath Ali Shah,
Mohamed Kooly Meerza, who preceded Ardeshir
Meerza in the government of Mauzunderoon, which
he held for the extraordinary period of thirty-six
years, seemingly with moderation and justice. He
also made several gardens, and otherwise improved
the town. He is now at Hamadan, living on a small
pension from Government. One or two of the prin
cipal streets had lately been capitally repaired;

216 CARAVANSERAIS. — TRADE.
some have sewers underneath, but the smaller ones
are made sloping towards a gutter running along
their centre ; occasionally they are broken up and
deep in mud, but these places are comparatively
few. Altogether there was at Saree an appearance
of life and bustle that we did not expect to see : the
bazars are in much better repair than those of Bor
froosh ; and, though the shops are not so large, there
is a more active and business-like air about them,
and the state of the town in general does credit to
the Governor.
There are four caravanserais, one of which is in
excellent repair, has a neat garden, with a tank and
fountain in the centre, and is occupied by some of
the chief merchants. Two of the remaining three
are insignificant, and half in ruins; and the other is
in process of being repaired. There are about fifty
merchants in Saree, who carry on a small trade di
rect with Tehraun and Astrabad, though the wants
of the town are chiefly supplied from Borfroosh.
Both the imports and exports are the same as of
that city.
The following are the names of the tribes inha
biting Saree, and who were brought here by Nadir
Shah and Aga Mohamed Khan. The Osanloo
(Toork, from Azerbijan) ; the Kellidgelee, from Kho-
rassaun ; and the Belooche and Affghaun, from their
respective countries. There are very few Koords in
the town, the greater part dwelling in the surround
ing villages.
Saree is seven clays' journey (carvan) from Teh
raun.

217

CHAPTER XII.
Receive Visits. — The Aid-i-cadar. — A Persian Garden. — Seed
time and harvest in Mauzunderoon. — Bridge over the Thedjin.
— Dervishes at Saree. — Linen Manufactures. — A Physiognomist.
— Visit the Vekeel. — System of Education in Persia. — Leave
Saree. — Road to Ferrabad. — Arrival at Ferrabad. — Quarters. —
Pleasure-house of Shah Abbas. — Trade of Ferrabad. — Poverty
of the Inhabitants. — Sturgeon Fisheries of Mauzunderoon. —
Their total Produce. — Carp, Sefeed-mahee, and Azad-mahee
Fishery. — Departure from Ferrabad. — Prevailing winds on the
Coast. — Road to Karatuppeh. — Tumuli.— Karatuppeh. — View
from the top of the Mound. — Regarding the Affghauns in Mau
zunderoon. — Bad Water. — Ruins at Shah-keelaw. — Late
Arrival of our Baggage.
Jan. 9. This morning, after breakfast, which was
sent to us by the Vekeel, who is a little boy, the
son of Abbas Kooly Khan, the Prince's Vizier, we
received a visit from Mohamed Hadgee Khan (the
acting Vekeel), Mohamed Kerrim Khan, and several
of their friends. The last-named is chief of the
Affghauns in Mauzunderoon : he was a very civil,
agreeable old gentleman, and pressed us much to
go to his village of Karatuppeh, which lay on our
road to Astrabad, saying, that if he could not be
there himself, he would write to his son to show us
every hospitality and attention.
To-day was the Aid-i-cadar* (feast of command or
* The word " cadar " has very many various meanings. The

218 A PERSIAN GARDEN.
ordination). According to the Persians, it is the an
niversary of the day when the prophet Mohamed,
seated on a throne of camel-skins, received inti
mation from heaven to name Allee his successor.
It is kept a general holiday ; and, almost every one
having gone out of town, we determined to do so
likewise. About twelve o'clock, therefore, we rode
to a garden near the palace, planted by Mohamed
Kooly Meerza. This, like all Persian gardens, was
surrounded by a high wall, and laid out in straight
walks, bordered with rows of cypress and orange
trees. There were also one or two firs, which had
been brought from the highlands. The fruit-trees
were apples, peaches, pears, cherries, pomegranates,
and several species of oranges, lemons, and citrons.
In the centre of the garden was a summer-house in
a melancholy state of dilapidation, but which was
sometimes still used by the Prince. Passing through
a ruinous gateway, we entered another garden, be
longing to the anderoon. It was almost entirely oc
cupied by a large stone tank, full of water, edged
with a paved walk, planted on the outside with
orange-trees. We went into the building appro
priated to the women, which was completely in ruins;
in many places the roof had fallen in, and the floors
Turkish idea is that on this day the good and bad angels who are
attendant on every man give up the books in which they have
respectively written his actions during the past year, and receive
fresh books, together with a knowledge of what he is destined to do
'during the year now entered on. In this sense the Aid-i-cadar is
the " feast of destiny/' It is, however, not considered a feast by
the Turks.

BRIDGE OVER THE THEDJIN. 219
exhibited the bare beams and rafters. Ascending
to the upper chamber of a square tower in the build
ing, we obtained a lovely view of the surrounding
country. The fields, enclosed by hedges and dotted
with clumps of trees, gradually faded into the blue
mist of distance ; beyond which rose the chain of the
Elburz, covered with snow, the sugar-loaf peak of
Demawund, towering high above the rest of the
range, while the grazing cattle and the stacks of
rice contributed to give the whole scene a cheerful
and civilized appearance.
From this garden we went to see the bridge over
the Thedjin, situated about a mile and a half from
the town on the eastern side. The road was dry,
and led through fields, in which the wheat and bar
ley were just beginning to appear above ground. In
Mauzunderoon they sow in January, or the end of
December, and the crop ripens and is cut in May ;
after which all but the native peasantry retire to the
yeilauks, as the heat in summer is said to be intole
rable to strangers.
We crossed over the bridge which was constructed
by Aga Mohamed Khan, and is still in good repair.
It is built entirely of brick, and fanciful designs are
worked in the same material on the piers; it has
seventeen arches, only three of which were occupied
by the stream. A short distance beyond the bridge
is an Imaumzadeh of Abbas, another of the Imaum
Reza family, which must have been pretty nume
rous, for the tombs of sons and brothers are found all
over the province. We did not visit it, as we were
assured it differed in no respect from all the other
Imaumzadehs we had seen.

220 DERVISHES AT SAREE.
After crossing the bridge, we proceeded down the
stream along the eastern bank some three or four
hundred yards, until we came upon the causeway, at
which point we recrossed the river. Originally a
bridge existed there, which, when decayed, was re
placed by the one just described. Returning along
the causeway, we entered the town through one of
its old gateways. They say that earthquakes have
greatly hastened the ruin of these defences, but the
towers appear never to have been of any strength.
We then visited a large garden, planted by Aga
Mohamed Khan, precisely similar to that before de
scribed. It being a holiday, the boys of the town
were assembled here, and were amusing themselves
with pelting the fruit at each other; the oranges,
however, were all bitter, or they might have been
treated with more respect. No care seemed to be
taken of the place ; the walls were in a dilapidated
condition, and the branches of the trees broken down
by the attempts made to reach the fruit.
In riding through the streets of Saree, the num
ber of beggars and dervishes who present them
selves at every turn is incredible ; one might almost
suppose the town to be peopled by them: every
third man you meet salutes you with " Yah Allee !
hak !" and stretches out his hand or his wallet for
a tribute to his piety. There are immense num
bers in all the towns of Gheelaun and Mauzunde
roon ; but the residence of the court, the general
cheapness of provisions, and the mild and compara
tively dry climate during the winter, seem to have
induced them to give the preference to Saree as
their head-quarters.

LINEN MANUFACTURES. 221
Jan. 10. During the night there was a perfect
hurricane, but about nine o'clock this morning all
was calm again, and the day proved lovely.
We were shown some very good linen manufac
tures, made here from flax grown in the province.
They were evenly woven and nicely bleached, of
different lengths and widths, and principally in
tended for girdles for the waist, women's head
dresses, shirts, &c. ; and there were a few square
handkerchiefs. They were very high priced .
We were again visited by our friend the Affghaun
Mohamed Kerrim Khan and some of his friends.
One of them, a young poet, after staring at me in
cessantly for about a quarter of an hour, turned round
to Mr. A. and said, that he was convinced by a pe
culiar expression of my eyes that I was a brother
poet, and requested that I would do him the plea
sure to recite some of my verses. I assured him,
however, that he was quite mistaken, and that my
genius was confined to prose. In the course of con
versation we were told, that there were sportsmen
here who were dexterous in shooting animals in the
dark, being merely guided by the sound.
When our visitors had departed, we went to call
upon the Vekeel, a nice little boy of about ten years
old. On our entering the room in which he was
seated, he rose, told us we were welcome, and in
quired after our health with all the self-possession
and gravity of a man. Having paid his compliments,
however, we found that he had nothing further to
say, and the conversation was kept up by his mi
nister and his tutor, who were present. School-

222 EDUCATION IN PERSIA.
masters are the same all the world over; and I
could immediately have decided on the calling of
the worthy pedagogue, who sat next me, from an
indescribable something in his physiognomy. The
system of education in this part of Persia, and, I be
lieve, elsewhere, is as follows: When the child is
about five or six years old, he is sent to school, or,
if the son of a great man, generally has a private
tutor. He is first taught to read the Koran and the
works of some of the favourite poets, then to write,
and also how to behave to superiors and inferiors,
and other points of etiquette, which form a very im
portant branch in Persian education. The boy is kept
to these several studies with little intermission or
recreation nearly all day. This discipline continues
till he is about fourteen years of age, when he is
taught to shoot, to ride, and other manly accom
plishments, which are generally far more conge
nial to his tastes than his former employments;
and at eighteen or twenty he is married. The
schoolmaster now present received sixty tomauns
(30Z.) a-year as private tutor to the Beglerbeg's son.
When boys are sent to school, which is something
like an English day-school, the parents pay accord
ing to their means, from sixpence to a shilling per
month. Having concluded our visit, I strolled outside the
town, and made a sketch of it: the evening was
lovely ; and the sun, just setting behind the moun
tains, threw a thousand beautiful tints over the
landscape. January 11th. Everything being prepared for

ROAD TO FERRABAD. 223
departure, we left Saree at eleven o'clock. It
was market-day, and the streets were crowded
with people flocking in from all the neighbouring
villages. We marched slowly through the town,
and it was curious to observe how wonderfully
the body of feroshes, who walked in front to clear
the way, had augmented ; we usually had four or
five, while to-day there could hardly be fewer
than fifteen : but we owed the attention to the
fact that we were departing, and every one who
could possibly pretend to have rendered us a ser
vice hoped to receive a present.
I observed that the town does not now fill up the
space it formerly occupied, a great deal of ground
within the walls being covered with ruins. Passing
through the gateway, we proceeded along a road
built by Shah Abbas, in the same manner as the
causeway, lying north and south, in a direct line
to Ferrabad. It had lately been paved for a short
distance from the gate, and was in good condi
tion. For about eight miles we continued along
this road, alternately through rice-fields and forest ;
but the surrounding country was well-populated,
and numerous wreaths of smoke curling above
the trees denoted the situation of different vil
lages. The path now became broken up, and was
lost in the jungle ; so, turning aside, we continued
our march through the fields. At about half-past
one we came to the village of Auhun, and, further
on, to Aumil; both which, with several others in
the vicinity, are inhabited by the Jambegloo and
Modaunloo Koords. Near the last-mentioned place

224 QUARTERS.
was a large grassy mound, the first I had seen
of those " tuppehs," as they are called, which fre
quently occur in Mauzunderoon, Astrabad, and the
Toorcoman desert, and which I shall have occasion
to allude to hereafter. The one in question looked
very much like some of the circular hill-forts
in Ireland. At about two miles from Ferrabad
we came upon a fine open plain of smooth turf;
at the extremity of which, in the direction of
the sea, the ruins of a fine mosque and caravanserai,
broken-down walls and arches, extending many
hundred yards, indicated our Menzil. On entering
Ferrabad, now a collection of some seventy or
eighty miserable huts, we passed under the remains
of a vaulted bazar: a few stones and one arch,
on the north bank of the Thedjin, show where
once stood a bridge ; and foundations of numerous
buildings are seen all along the edge of the
water. As we had sent on a man the day before, a
small house of three rooms had been made ready
for us, which is sometimes occupied by the
Prince, when he comes here . to hunt and shoot.
It was full of holes and crevices, but we never
theless endeavoured to persuade ourselves that it
was very comfortable; which was so much the
easier, as we knew that no house in the village
was to be compared to it.
Close to our quarters were the ruins of the
Jehan-numeh, (wonder of the world,) a pleasure-
house built by Shah Abbas. It is situated near the
river, and is surrounded on all sides by high mud

PLEASURE-HOUSE OF SHAH ABBAS.

225

walls, having been most probably the anderoon.
It has an upper and lower story, divided into a
great many chambers, the largest of which is on
the upper floor : most of them are very small.
All the ceilings are vaulted ; and the doors and
windows, opening on every side, must have made
the place a very cool and agreeable summer re
sidence. The walls and roofs have been very
beautifully painted, and the figures of women
dancing and playing musical instruments can be

distinguished, but nearly all the colours have been
rubbed off or obliterated by soot and smoke. Some
of the roofs are curiously worked into a small
fretwork of niches of the most fanciful shapes,
which have originally been fitted with bits of
looking-glass, but only two or three pieces now
remain, and the plaster is broken and destroyed.
The; interior decorations of Persian houses seem
to have undergone no change since the time of
Abbas ; and many rooms that I have seen, in Teh-
Q

226 TRADE OF FERRABAD.
raun and other towns, are embellished in precisely
the same style. In one of the apartments on
the ground-floor the flowers and scrolls painted
on the roof, which had lost their colour and were
stained with smoke, had exactly the appearance
of Japan-work. On the flat top of the building
are the remains of a square brick tower, overgrown
by luxuriant creeping plants, which, though they
heighten the picturesque beauty of a building,
materially hasten its decay. In the court-yard, in
front of the principal entrance, stood a little mud
hovel, contrasting strangely with the forlorn and
decayed glory of the palace ; they were true em
blems of the state of Persia, — past greatness, arid
present misery and poverty. I took a hasty sketch
of the place and returned home, for the sun had
already set, and the air began to feel chilly. There
are many other ruins at Ferrabad, a caravanserai, a
mosque, baths, &c, but we had no time to see them.
Ferrabad is one of three villages held in tweel
by one Hadgee Nooroollah Khan Affghaun, from
which he derives a revenue of 800 tomauns. He
is a pensioner of the Persian Government, and is
paid in this manner.
The trade is very insignificant. The Toorcomans
bring annually between four and five hundred khal-
wars of naphtha, which is worth here about eight
shillings the khalwar of thirty-six mauns Tabreez,
or two hundred and thirty pounds English. The
naphtha is of inferior quality and different colour
to that from Badcobeh, none of which is brought
here direct. The Toorcomans, also, bring salt and

POVERTY OF THE INHABITANTS. 227
" nardoneh," or the seeds of the pomegranate, which
are much used in Persian cookery. A ship occa
sionally arrives from Astrachan with Russian goods
of the same description as those brought to Me
shed-i-sir, and the few exports from Ferrabad are
the same as from that port.
The inhabitants are very poor, and their houses
of the meanest kind. There was neither corn,
barley, rice, nor even straw for our horses, and
we had to send for it from a neighbouring village.
A little silk is produced here, and several of the
cottages are surrounded with mulberry plantations.
The morning was clear and frosty, and before
breakfast we took a walk of about a mile and
a half to the mouth of the river, to visit the
Armenian Stepan, and learn something regarding
the sturgeon fishery which he carries on. The
river was now shallow, but never at any time can
vessels enter it. Two ships lay at anchor a mile
in the offing; they remain there during the winter,
and in the spring sail for Astrachan with the pro
duce of the fishery. Enzellee is the only place
along the south coast of the Caspian where ships
can get into harbour, everywhere else they lie
in the roadsteads.
On the western bank of the river is erected a
warehouse, and several small houses inhabited by
the Russian fishermen, by some of whom we were
conducted to the residence of their employer,
Stepan. He was a fine-looking man, and received
us very cordially, gave us tea, and seemed rather
surprised that we declined taking half a tumbler
Q 2

228 CARP, SEFEED-MAHEE, & AZAD-MAHEE FISHERY.
of rum at eight o'clock in the morning. He told
us that he rented the sturgeon fisheries of seven
rivers along the coast, from a small stream the
other side the Bawbil, to the Koulbad, dividing
Mauzunderoon from Astrabad, in fact all the
fisheries of the province, for 350 tomauns. He
has held them for twenty-five years, and his lease
will expire in five more.
The whole produce of these rivers amounts, in
a good year, to about
Fish . . . 24,000.
Caviare, poots . . 2,500 to 3,000.
Isinglass . . . 40 to 50.
The Thedjin is the principal fishery in Mauzun
deroon, and produces some 12,000 fish annually.
Stepan employs altogether about an hundred and
twenty men, most of whom accompany him to
Astrachan every summer, and return for the fishing
in the winter.
The fishery of the carp, sefeed-mahee, and azad-
mahee in the Thedjin is rented by a Mussulman for
an hundred tomauns per annum. The man said that
the produce varied exceedingly ; some years he took
as many as a thousand of the latter fish (the large
trout before described), while in others, not more
than ten ; and complained that the last two years had
been so unusually dry, and the water in the river so
low, that he had caught little or nothing. The price
of all these fish of course varies, as they are abun
dant or otherwise ; at present, a good-sized azad-
mahee, and a small sefeed-mahee were sold together
for about a shilling.

DEPARTURE FROM FERRABAD. 229
At twelve o'clock we forded the river near the
remains of the bridge, and commenced our march to
Karatuppeh. The path lay for many miles along
the sea-shore, which presented the usual scenery.
The water was very shallow, and large flocks of
gulls and wild fowl were sporting on its surface.
We forded successively the Killer-al-naggee-beg,
the Zerdee, and the Koulbarood. I had observed
that all the rivers on the coast, from the Sefeed
Rood, have a long sandbank at their mouths, project
ing from their western banks, and stretching east,
to which point they make a turn, flowing almost pa
rallel to the shore before entering the sea ; this oc
curs even when the rivers approach the coast in a
north or north-west direction. From this fact it was
apparent, that the prevailing winds were from the
westward and north-west, as the waves running one
way and the streams another, gradually raised banks
between them. I was informed that this conjecture
regarding the winds was correct.
We left the sea-side at a place where stood the
remains of an old tower, formerly erected for a
watchman, to warn the people of the approach of
the Toorcomans, who, until very lately, used to make
frequent incursions into this part of the country from
the sea, coming over from their own coast in boats.
The road now lay through a wide swampy plain, em
ployed in rice cultivation, in the midst of which the
village of Noserabad is situated. I saw quantities
of snipe, ducks and geese, curlew pipers, and a va
riety of other aquatic birds. We continued for three
or four miles through this kind of country, follow-

230 ROAD TO KARATUPPEH. — TUMULI.
ing each other in single file along the narrow ridges
which formed the pathway, till we emerged on a
magnificent plain of smooth, dry turf, occasionally
interspersed with bushes of the wild pomegranate
and beds of rushes, but exhibiting no signs of culti
vation. It extended to the sea on the north; to
the east, the waters of the bay of Astrabad were
just visible ; and on the side of the mountains it was
skirted by the forest, concealing numerous villages,
the existence of which, as usual, was only to be dis
covered by the smoke of their fires. On entering
this plain we put up a flock of small bustards, the
first I had seen in Persia, and also numbers of golden
plover. In one place we descried a jackal, and gave
chace ;" it was a capital run, as the beast had a long
start. One of the greyhounds seized hold of him,
but he showed fight, and the dog letting him go, he
finally escaped among the bushes.
Riding onwards for several miles, we came in sight
of Karatuppeh, which, as its name implies, is built
on a dark-coloured mound, rising abruptly from the
plain. Not far distant is another similar hillock,
but not surrounded by habitations. The natives can
give no satisfactory information with regard to these
mounds. It is very evident that they are not natu
ral elevations ; and it is probable they may be the
burial-places of the ancient Kings of Hyrcania. He
rodotus details at full length the mode of sepul
ture of the ancient Kings of Scythia, when, after
various sacrifices, — the slaughter of their wives and
chief attendants, — all the bodies were piled toge
ther, with numerous utensils of gold and silver, and

TUMULI. 231
covered with a lofty mound of earth. The same
custom may have prevailed here. I was afterwards
told that one of them, called Turenje Tuppeh, a
short distance from Astrabad, had been opened by
Mahomed Nessr Khan, the late governor of the pro
vince, who found various rings, plates, knives, and
cups of gold and copper, and also some men's bones
of large size. My informant had seen these, and had
a ring in his possession, which he promised to show
me, but it was forgotten. Most of these curiosities
were sent to the Shah, and the rest kept by the
finder. There are many tuppehs in Azerbijan, si
milar in shape, which, when opened, have been found
to contain nothing but ashes. These are by some
supposed to be the remains of villages of the ancient
Guebres or fire- worshippers. A Guebre village was
built of mud-houses, ranged in a circle round the
sides of a high mound, on the summit of which stood
a temple. In process of time both houses and temple
having crumbled to their original dust, nothing was
left but a mound of earth. Near Ispahaun are the
ruins of a Guebre village, in a sufficient state of pre
servation to show that they were constructed in the
manner just described. A friend of mine, who has
resided a long time in Persia, told me that in many
villages there exists a custom of throwing all the
ashes and rubbish in one particular spot. They gra
dually accumulate to a vast heap, which assumes a
conical form, as the fresh ashes are always carried to
the top ; and on the desertion and decay of the vil
lage it becomes covered with a coating of earth and
grass. This way of accounting for these tuppehs

232 KARATUPPEH.
seems to be particularly applicable to those which
have been found to consist of ashes.
We arrived at Karatuppeh shortly after sunset,
and were met by a son of Mohamed Kerrim Khan,
heading an istakball. The whole village had assem
bled at the top of the hillock to witness our arrival,
and we were conducted, amid expressions of wel
come, to a small house, which had been cleared for
us. , While carpets were being spread, we ascended
the hill, which commands a magnificent view of the
surrounding country. The shore of the bay was
about three miles distant, and the tongue of sand
called Meeaum Kaleh (middle castle), forming a
breakwater to the bay, could be seen stretching
eastward along the horizon, till lost in the distance.
This strip is similar to that which encloses the lake
of Enzellee, but on a larger scale, being some thirty-
six miles long, and varying in breadth from one to
three miles : it is uninhabited and partly covered
with trees, the tops of which were visible long after
the low shore had disappeared. The plain was
dotted with numerous herds of cattle returning home
for the night, and here and there stood one of the
watch-towers before mentioned. Demawend, hardly
visible, bore S.W. by W., and towards the south,
Soofeeabad, the pleasure-house of Shah Abbas, near
Ashreff, might be distinguished like a white spot on
the dark mountains. The village of Karatuppeh is
built all round the sides of the hillock, precisely in
the manner of an old Guebre village, and has a very
curious appearance. There are altogether two hun
dred houses, inhabited in about an equal proportion

AFFGHAUNS IN MAUZUNDEROON. 233
by Affghauns and the native peasantry. The former
are of the Gellijai tribe, and were originally brought
from Candahar by Nadir Shah, to the number of
twelve thousand families, and placed in this part of
Mauzunderoon. Repeated broils and feuds with the
natives reduced their numbers, and the remainder
fled to Khiva. Some time afterwards, three hun
dred families returned to Gogdun, whence they were
brought by Aga Mohamed Khan, and established
here at Saree and at Nodehhak, another small vil
lage, a short distance from this, inhabited by about
thirty families of Affghauns. The whole of this tribe
in Mauzunderoon furnish a quota of two hundred
horse to the crown, in lieu of taxes. The ryots pay
the same as the other peasantry of the country.
They cultivate rice, barley, and wheat, and their
fields are neatly kept and enclosed with good hedges.
Bread is commonly used, but the wheat crop having
this year partially failed, it was very scarce. The
people complain that this place is unhealthy in
summer, and that the stream with which Karatup
peh is supplied with water, being at that season
small, it becomes strongly impregnated with the salt
of the soil. In winter and in spring the current is
quicker, and being also more abundant, the unplea
sant taste of the mineral is hardly perceptible. Mo
hamed Kerrim Khan has a house both here and at
Nodehhak, and one of his sons resides at each place,
to manage matters in his absence.
Fraser mentions this place as having formerly
possessed warehouses and caravanserais erected by
Shah Abbas, and as having been the shipping

234 LATE ARRIVAL OF OUR BAGGAGE.
place of Ashreff. This, however, must be a mis
take, as Karatuppeh is three miles from the sea
shore. The ruins alluded to are situated on the
banks of the bay, at a place called Shah-keelaw,
about four miles to the N.E. of Karatuppeh.
To our great joy, our baggage, which we had
been anxiously expecting, came in an hour or two
after dark. The poor beasts had hardly been able
to crawl the distance of five fursucks, having been
fed last night at Ferrabad on a short allowance
of rice straw.

235

CHAPTER XIII.
Leave Karatuppeh. — Soofeeabad. — Reach Ashreff. — Description of
the various Gardens and Palaces. — Ashreff. — Departure. —
Arrival at Reckhiaubeen. — Our Lodgings. — Road to Gez. —
Curious Grave-Stones. — The Jair-i-Koulbad. — Arrive at Gez.
— Manner of building Houses. — Disappointed in our attempts
to visit Arshourada. — At last succeed in obtaining a Boat. —
Passage across the Bay. — Reach the Russian Vessels. — Mr.
Duhamel. — The Steamer. — The Araxe, fourteen-gun Brig. —
Arshourada. — Unhealthy Climate. — Sickness and Mortality
among the Sailors. — Habitations on the Island. — Grave- Yard.
— Regarding the Presence of the Russians at Arshourada. —
The Mode of Life of the Officers.— Their Pay.— Return to Gez
in the Steamer. — Astonishment of our Persian Servants. — The
Bay of Astrabad. — The Landing. — Preparations for Departure.
We left Karatuppeh about nine o'clock, and
were accompanied by the Khan's son a consider
able distance across the plain, in the direction of
Ashreff. The ground was more swampy than that
we had traversed yesterday, and was covered with
flocks of geese, ducks, and little bustards. We
were told that the last-named birds were found
here in great numbers during the winter, but that
they disappeared in the summer. On approaching
nearer the mountains, we entered a more culti
vated district, and the road lay through wheat
and barley fields, interspersed with cottages and

236 SOOFEEABAD.
clumps of trees. Passing through the small vil
lage of Zeerewaun, belonging to the Shah's mi-
rahor, (master of horse,) Mohamed Khan, we came
once more upon the old causeway, and, crossing
it, went round the foot of an almost precipitous
hill, on which Soofeeabad is built ; we ascended
it by a narrow winding path, and halfway up, where
the ascent becomes less steep, are the remains of
an arched gate, and a strong wall extending about
two hundred yards along the side of the hill. We
continued winding to the summit, when, passing
two more gateways, the one in a dilapidated tower,
and the other in a wall about fifteen feet high,
we came to the square terrace on which the house
is built. This terrace is seventy-five yards by
fifty-five, and is supported on the north, west,
and east sides by a wall formed by arches, the
south side being level with the top of the hill.
The pleasure-house stands in the centre, and is
seventy-five feet by fifty-one, and about eighty high.
For five or six feet from the ground, all round
the exterior, is a coating of stone; the remainder
of the structure is of brick. I could see no trace
of any lacquered tile-work on the walls or in any
part of the building, but among the rubbish round
about I picked up several pieces. There is a ground
floor and upper story. The principal hall below
is in the form of a cross, and four small chambers
at each corner of the building form a square. The
floor is tiled, and in the centre is a stone foun
tain, now dry. The superfluous water formerly
flowed into tanks outside, through channels termi-

REACH ASHREFF. 237
nating in slopes composed of flat stones with scale
like incisions, which occasioned a slight rippling.
The roof is vaulted, and the whole of the interior
is plastered with white stucco. The upper story
is divided into several small chambers, now choked
up with the rubbish and tiles of the roof, which
has fallen in. The terrace is planted with tall
cypress and orange trees, and commands a mag
nificent view. On the south side, the well-wooded
mountains rise, range after range, till they termi
nate in a lofty ridge covered with snow : to the
west and north is a wide extent of plain, laid out
in fields and dotted with many villages ; the land
scape was tinted in a most beautiful manner by
the different lights and shades of passing clouds,
and terminated, towards the north, by the blue
waters of the bay of Astrabad, while, to the east,
we looked down on the town of Ashreff and the
ruins of its famous gardens and palaces, about a
mile distant, the mountains in the direction of
Astrabad forming the back-ground of the picture.
Having spent about an hour and a half in this
delightful place, which was used by Shah Abbas
as a pleasure-house for his anderoon, we descended
the hill, and, in less than a quarter of an hour,
arrived at Ashreff. We tied up our horses in one
of the gardens, and proceeded at once to inspect
the various remains.
The grand entrance of the principal garden, the
Baugh-i-Shah, (the king's garden,) mentioned by
Hanway as being decorated with a picture of the
lion and sun, is now no more, and the place is

238 DESCRIPTION OF GARDENS AND PALACES.
entered from the bazar of the town, through what
must have been an inner gateway, which now
exhibits no remains of splendour. In a direct line
through the centre of this garden is the stone
channel, also described by the above-named author,
with its four cascades and the holes cut along
the edge for the reception of candles, all which
still remain as perfect as the first day they were
made. The channel is now dry, and proceeds from
a stone reservoir, thirty-nine by forty-four yards,
behind which was formerly the " sumptuous aiwan,"
or the " chehil sittoon," (forty pillars,) as it was
called. This was burnt down during the reigri
of Nadir Shah, who commanded that something
should be built to replace it, and a mean wooden
building, open in the centre, with upper and lower
chambers on each side, was erected; a poor sub
stitute, however, for the former fine structure. Be
hind this, again, are three more cascades, over
which the water was conducted, from the hills
behind, through the chehil sittoon, into the reser
voir, and thence along the channel leading to the
entrance of the garden. All the cascades are over
scaled stones, similar to those before alluded to.
There are quantities of orange trees, several fine
cypresses, and an old pine or two, but most of them
must have been planted since the time of Hanway.
On the west side of this garden are situated
four separate but adjacent inclosures lying north
and south.
The most northerly is the Baugh-i-shemaul (gar
den of the north), which now contains nothing but

DESCRIPTION OF GARDENS AND PALACES. 239
orange-trees and some heaps of rubbish. Next comes
the anderoon, which is in such a state of ruin that the
plan of the original building cannot be traced. A
large square court, surrounded by arched recesses,
with a few broken down masses of masonry in the
centre, are all the present remains. Some of the
recesses are inhabited by several families of poor
people, who have built up the open fronts with mud
walls. A ruined gateway from the anderoon leads
to the garden of the Sahib Zemaun, through which
runs a similar canal to that in the Baugh-i-shah, with
several cascades terminating in a tank, now quite
dry and choked with rubbish. Round this reservoir
just in front of the gateway are several stone posts
which supported seats, where Fraser supposes that
European ambassadors sat while entertained by the
Shah sitting in the small chamber above the gate
way. At the southern extremity of this garden are
the remains of the palace dedicated to the twelfth
Imaum, after whom the place is named. The lower
compartment of this building is divided into several
chambers, now mostly filled with rubbish ; but the
roof of the principal hall, though blackened by
smoke from the fires of dervishes and other vaga
bonds, still exhibits traces of the beautiful manner in
which it was formerly adorned. The upper story is
all in ruins, the roof having fallen in, and in most
places the walls only are standing. In some of the
small corner chambers, however, were plainly visi
ble the remains of those indelicate pictures which
so offended old Han way's good taste. Fraser must
have overlooked them, as he says that they had

240 DESCRIPTION OF GARDENS AND PALACES.
vanished from the walls, and, indeed, it would be
very possible to do so, as the rooms are small, and
their entrances blocked up with the wreck of the
roof; it was by mere accident that I entered them.
Beyond this palace, further south, was situated the
Khelwut, or private garden, close to the foot of the
hills, but nothing now remains save a few heaps of
stones. On the east side of the Baugh-i-shah is the
Baugh-i-tuppeh (garden of the mound), which is a
raised garden, and entered by an ascent up a flight
of steps. It is square, and surrounded by a wall,
fortified at each corner by a round tower. One of
these is lofty, and terminates in a circular tiled roof;
the others have been broken down level with the
wall, or within a few feet of it. The garden is
planted, as all the others, with oranges and cypress.
In the centre are the ruins of a small pleasure-
house ; and on the side nearest the Baugh-i-shah,
and separating it from this garden, is a range of
apartments, baths and sitting-rooms, in tolerable
repair. A gate at the south-east corner leads down
a flight of steps to the garden of the Amauret-i-
cheshmeh (palace of the fountain), which lies at the
foot of the hills in that direction. It is approached
by a long avenue, originally planted on either side
with cypress-trees, which have now all disappeared,
save one fine old tree ; along the centre is a stone
channel and cascades similar to those in the other
gardens. The palace is in ruins, though some of the
interior decorations are peculiarly fresh and bril
liant. It is erected over a copious spring of
delightfully clear water, from which the garden was

ASHREFF. — DEPARTURE. 241
formerly supplied ; the artificial channels, however,
are now deserted, and the water flows along a deep
ditch overgrown with brambles.
The whole of these establishments, which occupy
a considerable extent of ground, are enclosed within
a strong stone wall. Altogether we experienced
much pleasure in examining these memorials of
departed greatness; the place as a summer resi
dence must have been delightful in the extreme,
and the whole is well worthy of the monarch by
whom it was built, particularly when it is remem
bered that this palace was only a country-house,
and not a court establishment.
Ashreff has now dwindled to a mere village of
meanly-built houses ; those which belonged to the
officers and attendants of Shah Abbas, having been
probably built of mud and plaster, must have crum
bled to dust as soon as deserted by their inmates.
Having lingered in these gardens as long as time
would permit, we proceeded as far as the village
of Reckhiaubeen, where we had determined to pass
the night, wishing to reach Gez the next evening.
The road from Ashreff lay through the forest along
the causeway, which is here very dilapidated and
painful to the horses, being formed of large stones
procured from the rocks in the neighbourhood.
The distance from Karatuppeh to Reckhiaubeen is
three fursucks, Ashreff lying exactly half way.
Reckhiaubeen belongs to Humza Khan, Governor
of Anazon, the first district of Astrabad ; it contains
about an hundred and thirty houses. The Khan
was at Astrabad, and his sons, of whom there are
R

242 CURIOUS GRAVE-STONES.
five, were also absent. One of his servants, how
ever, was very civil, and procured us a tolerable
lodging; it is true, the doors would not shut, and
the windows were mere holes in the walls, not
affording a very brilliant prospect of comfort during
a cold raw night, but with the help of curtains and
a good fire we succeeded in making ourselves suffi
ciently snug.
Jan. 14, We left Reckhiaubeen at about nine
o'clock. The mountains, here thinly wooded, lay
close on our right, and at first the road was along
the causeway, occasionally turning aside among the
ploughed fields to avoid some peculiarly dilapidated
spot where the mud might have swallowed up a
camel. Shortly after setting out we passed the villages
of Kellaugh and Kalapoin, hid among the trees on
our left, and then for about two miles proceeded
through a low thick jungle of fern and brambles.
Further on we passed Tilletash, Tillenoh, Imraun,
and Hermindzemeen, all small villages situated
close to one another at the foot of the hills on the
right. Several burying-grounds lay by the road
side, which were filled with curious looking grave
stones, painted with different colours — red, green,
and blue. Some of them had inscriptions, and
others merely fanciful devices ; they were not more
than a foot and a-half high, and a few of them were
covered with small sheds formed of four sticks, sup
porting a straw or wooden roof to preserve them
from the rain.
Having crossed several beds of mountain torrents

THE JAIR-I-KOULBAD. 243
we came to that of the river Koulbad, about fifty
yards broad, and now quite dry, but from the appear
ance of the banks and the large stones lying in the
channel, I should think it very difficult to ford in
the spring.
The village of Koulbad lay further north towards
the sea. A mile further on we came to the Jair-i-
Koulbad (ditch of Koulbad), which forms the boun
dary between the provinces of Astrabad and Mau
zunderoon. It is a dry ditch about ten yards wide
and five deep, and was formerly constructed as a
protection against the Toorcomans. It extended
from the mountains to the sea, but it is in many
places almost obliterated, the banks having fallen
in and become overgrown with vegetation. The
causeway crosses the ditch at the place where we
passed it, and the road was formerly defended by a
tower and gateway, of which now only a few stones
remain. The Jair-i-Koulbad is four and a-half fur
sucks (eighteen miles) from Ashreff, and two fur
sucks from Gez.
We continued our march through the forest,
which now and then opened upon a delightful scene
of lawns, cottages, and cultivation, terminated by
the sparkling waters of the bay of Astrabad. A
mile or two after crossing the dry bed of a river
called the Chiparkendee, we arrived at Gez, a large
straggling village, distant five fursucks (twenty
miles) from Reckhiaubeen.
In this province during the autumn and winter
months there is a comparative scarcity of water, as
nearly all the streams become completely dry, and
R 2

244 MANNER OF BUILDING HOUSES.
for the first time since quitting Upper Persia we
found people making a cannaut, or subterraneous
aqueduct, not far from the Chiparkendee.
The lodgings assigned to us at Gez were wretched,
which was the more unpleasant as We intended to
remain there for a day or two ; however, there was
no help for it, all the other houses being as bad, if
not worse. They are built here in the following
manner : — a flooring of boards and branches, covered
with a thick coat of mud, is placed on six or eight
blocks of wood, which raise it, in the manner of an
English corn stack, about two feet from the ground.
Round three sides walls are formed of upright
stakes bound together, and principally supported by
four strong posts planted in the ground at each cor
ner of the building. The interstices are filled up
with mud. Over the whole is a pointed thatched
roof, not fitting very close to the top of the walls,
but leaving holes and crevices all round between
the thatch and the ends of the stakes, which are of
unequal lengths. There is, therefore, free entrance
to the wind, and also, in a measure, egress for the
smoke, though this purpose is hardly answered, as
when a fire is lighted within the room fills with
smoke much quicker than it escapes. We have
now the shell of the house, a raised floor, three
walls, and a roof, and all that is wanting to com
plete it is an inner wall, parallel to the open side,
dividing the building into two apartments — one with
an open front, called the beeroon, or outside, where
the family generally sit during the day ; and the
other the anderoon, or inside, which is entered by

VAIN ATTEMPTS TO VISIT ARSHOURADA. 245
a small door in the partition wall, and serves as a
sleeping-room. There are no windows to this
chamber, and except the little light which enters
through the chinks at the top of the walls it is per
fectly dark. In one of these inner apartments we
took up our abode, giving the " beroon" to our
servants, who were much better off than ourselves,
as they were not incommoded by smoke, and had a
roaring fire while we were shivering inside, with
every possible draught through the room, without
being able to light a fire for fear of suffocation.
Jan. 15. Last night we had intimated our in
tention of visiting the Russian commander in the
Bay of Astrabad, who is called by the natives the
Derrieh Beggee, or Admiral, and is stationed off
the Island of Arshourada, and we requested the chief
of the village to procure us boats early the next
morning for this purpose. This he promised with
a great many " be cheshms" (upon my eyes), but at
the time appointed we found that he had not done
anything towards performing his promise.
Breakfast being finished we rode to the shore,
about two miles distant from the village. The bay
was as smooth as a pond ; to the east lay the low
Toorcoman coast, from which arose several large
columns of smoke, occasioned by the burning of
reeds ; and to the north, the masts of the Russian
ships at Arshourada were just discernible on the
horizon. Two merchant vessels were lying at
anchor about a mile from the shore, and another
was crossing the bay in full sail towards the eastern
coast. After many useless attempts to attract the

246 VAIN ATTEMPTS TO VISIT ARSHOURADA.
notice of the people on board the nearest vessel, we
sent off a man in a small canoe, which happened to
be on the beach, who, after speaking her, returned
with the answer that all her boats were absent ; so
that having waited nearly two hours, we were
obliged to go back again with the prospect of an
extra day's detention in our miserable lodgings.
Suleiman Khan, a son of Humza Khan, had accom
panied us to the beach, and promised that we
should not be disappointed again, and that a boat
should be ready early next morning. During the
remainder of the day I went out shooting, but only
found a few woodcocks, and the cover was so dense
that I could not fire.
In the evening we received a visit, on the part of
the Derrieh Beggee, from a Meerza Ibrahim, an
Armenian in the Russian service. He said that
Mr. Duhamel would be delighted to see us, and
offered to accompany us to the ships on the morrow.
Jan. 16. This morning, for the first time since
the commencement of the month, the rain fell in
torrents, and there was a heavy gale of wind, conse
quently no boats were ready. About twelve o'clock,
however, the weather cleared up, and a messenger
sent to the beach returned, saying, that by the time
we got there a boat would be in readiness, at a
certain place, about half a mile west of where we
had been yesterday, and we repaired thither with all
speed. On arriving there, however, no boat was to
be seen, except one alongside the vessel we had
hailed the previous day, and we had therefore to
go to the old spot, through a deep and fatiguing

PASSAGE ACROSS THE BAY. 247
morass. Here we lighted a fire, the smoke of
which was discovered from the ship, and at last we
had the satisfaction of seeing the boat make for the
land. It could not approach, however, within three
hundred yards of the beach, there not being more
than a foot of water, and we only got on board by
means of the canoe, after being carried even to this
some fifty yards on the shoulders of the Russian
sailors. Ourselves and servants being embarked, we made
for the ship, on reaching which the sailors took on
board a light, a compass, and what appeared to us
bread and water, sufficient for a two days' cruise ; then
crossing themselves, and muttering a short prayer
for the prosperity of the voyage, started for Arshou
rada. A fair wind, happily, sprung up, and having
set sail, the men lighted their pipes, and, at our
request, sang some Russian songs in chorus, which
would have been pretty had the voices been equal
to the spirit of the singers ; the air was very cold,
and the wind freshening, brought us alongside the
Russian steamer about an hour after dark. We were
received on deck by an officer, who conducted us to
a comfortable little cabin, where we found Mr. Du
hamel. He is a gentlemanly man, greeted us cor
dially, and gave us a good supper; after which he
showed us to a cabin astern, where comfortable beds
had been made ready for us, and we retired for the
night. The first object that attracted our attention in
the morning was the steamer in which we were.
It was a very neat little craft, of forty-horse power,

248 THE ARAXE FOURTEEN-GUN BRIG.
clean and well ordered. It was called the " Kama,"
drew five feet water, was used chiefly for carrying
despatches, was commanded by a lieutenant, with
two midshipmen, and a crew of sixteen seamen, and
was armed with four small signal guns.
She arrived at Arshourada late in the autumn, for
the purpose of trying coals from the mines at Shah
koo, a district among the mountains, which I shall
have occasion to allude to hereafter. They were
found very stony, though I believe that such is
nearly always the case with the upper stratum of
this mineral, and the natives have as yet only taken
it from near the surface. Experiments were also
made with naphtha, but they did not succeed ; and
wood is now usually burnt. The " Kama" was the
only steamer then on the Caspian ; but there was
another boat built of iron, of forty-five horse power,
on the stocks at Astrachan, which was expected to
be launched in the spring, as soon as that port was
free from ice.
Shortly after we were up, Mr. Duhamel made his
appearance, and having ordered his gig, took us on
board the " Araxe," a fourteen-gun brig (12-pound-
ers). Everything looked clean and in good order,
though we found out that much was got up for the
occasion. We were introduced to her captain, a
young man about twenty years of age, but as he
could speak no other language than Russian, of
which we knew nothing, it was a most silent visit.
The " Araxe" will remain on this station about a
year, when some other vessel will be appointed to
replace her. The Russian naval force in the Caspian

ARSHOURADA. 249
consists of the above-mentioned steam-vessel, and
seven or eight brigs, the largest of which carry
eighteen guns.
The only other vessel here was a transport brig, of
about an hundred tons burden, laden with provisions
and stores. Leaving the " Araxe," we went to visit
the island of Arshourada, a few hundred yards from
which the ships lay at anchor. It is a circular patch
of sand, between three and four miles from the point
of Meeaunkaleh, and will, in all probability, soon be
come joined to it, as the greatest depth of water be
tween them does not exceed four feet, and becomes
more shallow every year. The circumference of the
island varies with the season; in winter, however, it
is not more than two miles ; and in summer, when
the waters in the bay increase, rather less. The
climate is exceedingly unhealthy ; and the men
had suffered severely from a malignant fever, which
sometimes took them off in a few hours. There
were altogether an hundred and thirty men, and at
this time thirty-five were ill, many without hopes of
recovery ; while forty or fifty more were in a weak
but convalescent state. Ten men had died since
their arrival five months ago : one man, who was
perfectly well yesterday, was seized and died this
morning; and Mr. Duhamel had only just recovered
from a sickness, which had confined him to his bed
for two months. At one time, he said, nearly every
man he had was ill ; and they had some fears that
the Toorcomans might find it out, and seize the op
portunity to massacre the whole of them, and burn
the ships. There is no vegetation on the island

250 GRAVE-YARD.
save a few rushes ; and no fresh water, except what
is found immediately below the surface of the sand,
and is brackish and unwholesome. The only habita
tions are two large sail-cloth tents, occupied by the
sick, whose ghastly appearance was painful to be
hold. They were much exposed in these tents, and
a building of wood and reeds was in the course of
construction as an hospital ; besides these there was
a bakehouse, a piggery, and poultry- yard, and a small
Toorcoman tent, for the use of Mr. Duhamel. Near
the landing-place were two piles of coal, one Rus
sian and one English, covered with sail-cloth ; and
close by was a small sloop, hauled up high and dry.
A pile of long poles for building stood near the new
hospital; and I observed two guns, 6 and 9-pound -
ers, one on a field-carriage, and the other dis
mounted ; and also seven small swivels, like the
signal guns of the steamer, fastened in a row on a
single log of wood, and forming a kind of portable
battery. At the western side of the island, a num
ber of wooden posts, with cross-bars at the top,
marked the burying-ground.
It would appear by the account of the Russians
here, that they have been rather ill-treated by the
Persians, without cause. Some three years ago, the
whole coast as far as Meshid-i-sir, was kept in a
state of constant fear of an incursion of the Toor
comans: not a night passed without some kind
of depredation being committed ; and very fre
quently a large party would cross the bay in their
boats, and plunder a village, carrying off the inha
bitants into slavery. The Persians not possessing

ILL-TREATMENT OF THE RUSSIANS. 251
boats, had no check on their ferocious neighbours ;
sometimes, indeed, the Governor of Astrabad reta
liated, by foraying in the desert ; but the peasants,
who had, perhaps, suffered at the other end of the
province, were not benefited by it, as restitution was
never made to them. Such was the state of things,
when, as the Russians say, they were invited by the
Shah to protect the coast, as the Persians were inca
pable of doing so, and therefore took up a position
off Arshourada. Since they have been here, hardly
a case of pilfering has occurred from the sea, and
not a single attack on a large scale. All boats from
the Toorcoman shore are obliged to come alongside
Mr. Duhamel's vessel, and show a pass from the
heads of the district or tribe to which they belong,
or are otherwise sent back. On exhibiting this pass,
they receive another from the commodore ; their
arms are taken from them, and they are then al
lowed to proceed with whatever merchandise they
have on board, and on returning, they must again
give in their passes ; their boats are searched for
slaves, and their arms restored to them. Any Toor
coman boat found on the Persian coast without
a pass from the Russian commodore, is liable to be
seized by the authorities. The inhabitants along
the coast are now in a state of security, the nume
rous watch-towers, and the fortifications of their vil
lages, are neglected as useless ; but, though they
confess the benefit they have received from the
Russians, and own that their conduct has been most
exemplary, always paying for what they want, and
never interfering with the natives, yet they exhibit

252 ILL-TREATMENT OF THE RUSSIANS.
the strongest aversion and jealousy towards them.
I have already alluded to the extreme shallowness
of the water near the shores of the bay ; and M.
Duhamel, finding that the constant wading through
the surf, whenever anything was required from the
shore, materially affected the health of the seamen,
and in some instances occasioned the fever which
had proved so fatal, commenced building a small
jetty, that they might land dry. On perceiving this,
the people rose up in arms ; the work was destroyed,
and letters were written to Tehraun, saying, that the
Derrieh Beggee was constructing a bridge from
the shore to the island — a distance of about twelve
miles ! About the same time there were other re
ports which were believed, and created a consider
able sensation at Tehraun ; one, that the Russians
were erecting a stone fortress at Arshourada. Had
the slightest reflection been used, the absurdity of
these rumours would have been self-evident. With
regard to the fort, where were the materials to come
from ? and what would be its use to the Russians,
commanding nothing but the entrance of a bay, in a
sea where there are no ships but their own? Be
sides all this, many other instances have occurred,
showing the most unfriendly and jealous spirit to
wards them ; and it is astonishing that they should
remain in such a wretched place, where so little is
to be gained, and where in return for what they have
done, they meet with nothing but annoyance. They
have no trade of their own to protect, though their
endeavours to establish one may account for the
length of time they have already remained here. I

MODE OF LIFE OF THE OFFICERS. 253
heard it mentioned as a probability, that the station
would soon be abandoned.
The life of the officers here must be most mi
serable. I really pitied them ; they were silent
and gloomy, each separately taking his melancholy
walk up and down the decks, his head hanging
on his breast, and his hands thrust deep into his
pockets. They appear not to have any indulgences
or resources, nor to be sociably inclined, unless
when at the card-table, at which they amuse them
selves almost day and night, playing at farthing-
point whist, and, probably, cursing the hard fate
which confines them to so dreary a spot, with a
certainty of sickness and the probability of death.
We were informed that the pay of the lieutenant
commanding the steamer was 200 ducats, about
100?., that of a midshipman was 50/. The doctor
had 70/., and the common sailors about twelve
shillings a-year. The latter live chiefly on black
bread and soup, and the fare of the junior officers
is much the same.
Mr. Duhamel had very politely offered to take
us back to Gez in the steamer, first making a short
run round the bay, and, on returning from the
island, as the steam was up, we weighed anchor
and departed. The amazement of our Persian ser
vants knew no bounds ; they had never before seen
anything of the kind, " never, even in a dream,"
and they were quite at a loss to conceive how
the boat went a-head, — what moved it ? and, of
course, notwithstanding all our explanations, it still
remained a profound mystery. Who ever heard

254 THE BAY OF ASTRABAD.
of ships being driven along by hot water? First
they would dive down into the engine-room, and
then they would rush upon deck and stare at
the paddles for a quarter of an hour. However,
they could make nothing of it, looking at each
other in blank amazement, and exclaiming, " Won
derful ! wonderful ! Hot water ! Allah ! there is but
one God!"
When I came on deck, after breakfast, the low
sandy bank of Meeaunkaleh lay about a mile and
a half on our right, and though, as before stated,
the boat did not draw more than five feet water,
we could not approach nearer, and two men were
employed sounding, lest we should run aground.
Mr. Duhamel told me that the greatest depth
of water in the bay is three fathoms, and the
bottom is generally of soft and tenacious clay, so
that if an anchor be left out a couple of days
together it is got up with the greatest difficulty.
The Caspian is in general shallow, but off Derbend
soundings have not been found at two hundred
fathoms. During our run, the .wind rose, and before we
arrived opposite the landing-place it had increased
to a perfect gale. Our baggage and servants were
first sent on shore, and we followed. The sea was
running high, and the boat soon became half-filled
with water. We could not approach within three
hundred yards of the beach, and, having thrown
out a grappling iron, lay tossing about for at least
ten minutes, the sea constantly breaking over us,
until a flat-bottomed boat was sent out, which

PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE. 255
took us about two hundred yards nearer, and the
remainder of the disembarkation was effected on
the backs of the sailors.
"We found our horses waiting for us on the
beach ; they were shivering with cold, and we
hastened back to Gez, much pleased with our
visit, and wishing our kind friends might soon be
removed to a healthier and more pleasant sta
tion. Meerza Ibrahim dined with us in the evening,
and, having packed up most of our baggage, we
retired to rest, with no small feeling of satisfaction
at the prospect of quitting our present uncom
fortable quarters.

256

CHAPTER XIV.
Departure from Gez. — Kafshigeeree. — Toorcoman Incursions. — Ink.
— Sesame. — Leave Kafshigeeree. — Thievish Propensities of the
Natives. — Our Gholaum. — Arrival at Astrabad. — Suleiman
Khan. — Anecdote. — Manner in which the Khan obtained his
Post. — A Gholaum wounded by a Toorcoman. — Humza Khan.
— Sale of an Uncle. — Dinner. — Scenery. — An Occasion of
Serious Discomposure to Suleiman Khan. — A Visit to the
Desert. — The Party. — Suleiman Khan's Son. — Met by some
Toorcoman Chiefs. — A singular Shooting Party. — Head-dress of
the Toorcoman Women. — The Encampment. — The Chief's
Wife. — A Singer. — Breakfast. — Return to Astrabad.
January 18th. We left Gez at about nine
o'clock, and, in spite of the stormy appearance
of the previous evening, had a lovely day for our
ride. After travelling about a mile and a half, we
came to the dry bed of a river called the Sir-i-
mahaleh, and shortly afterwards crossed a deep
narrow channel, also dry, over a small dilapidated
bridge, called the Poole-i-Hadjee Ibrahim. About
four miles from Gez, the road lay between two
low mounds, which, our guide told us, were part
of an ancient city called Berber, formerly very
large and splendid, though a few mounds and
stones are now all that remain. He said that

KAFSHIGEEREE. 257
there was a tradition _that Allee cleft the over
hanging mountains with his sword, and a flood
issued forth which destroyed the city, but he ob
served, in conclusion, that he could not exactly
take upon himself to say if this was true, — all the
people, however, said so, and they ought to know.
The spot is in the midst of the forest, to the south
of the village of Korkendeh, and is called Haraub-
i-shehr (ruins of the city).
A fursuck further than this, we crossed the
dry bed of another torrent, called the Koord-ma-
haleh-chai, from a large village of that name, which
it passes about a mile and a half to the north
of the road, on its way to the coast. Twelve
miles from hence, we arrived at Kafshigeeree, al
together about twenty miles distant from Gez. The
Koord-mahaleh-chai divides the districts of Anazon
and Seddem Rustauk.
We had travelled nearly all day along the cause
way, which, at setting out, was broad and good,
but latterly had much deteriorated. It lay chiefly
through a thick forest, in which I observed many
very fine trees, oak, sycamore, and beech. On
these latter, grows a great quantity of mistletoe,
with which the inhabitants feed their cattle.
At Kafshigeeree we were welcomed by Rahim
Khan, a brother of the owner, Baugher Khan,
who was absent ; he gave us a very tolerable house,
and, while our servants were unpacking our bag
gage, we ascended a mound close by, similar to
those already mentioned, whence we had a fine
view over the desert, which had something the
s

258 TOORCOMAN INCURSIONS.
appearance of a sea, except that the horizon was
undulating. Two or three large columns of black
smoke rose to an immense height in the calm air,
and we could plainly distinguish several dark lines,
formed by obers, or encampments, of the Toorco
mans. The distance from Kafshigeeree to the Ka-
rasoo, beyond which is the steppe, is about four
miles, and, since the Russians have prevented the
Chappows by sea in Mauzunderoon and the west
of Astrabad, the inhabitants of this part of the
country complain that they have doubly suffered,
particularly this year, on account of the absence
of the governor, Suleiman Khan, at Tehraun. The
Karasoo is no protection whatever, as the Toor
comans ford it where shallow, and where deep
swim their horses over. Almost every night some
sheep, cows, or men were carried off by these
marauders, who, leaving their horses near the open
plain, crept into the villages by twos and threes,
and, having seized their booty, made their escape
under cover of darkness. Since the return of the
Governor, their visits have been less frequent, but
no retributive steps have been as yet taken, and
the inhabitants themselves are afraid to make ex
amples of any plunderers they may catch, as they
say, if they kill one, the Toorcomans would, sooner
or later, have their revenge* by killing ten in re
turn. When these depredations are made near
the residence of a khan, or chief, and the robbers
happen to be known, they are sometimes made
to restore what they have taken ; this, however,
is rarely the case, and the loss must most fre
quently be submitted to.

LEAVE KAFSHIGEEREE. 259
Descending from the mound, we returned to
the village and received a visit from Rahim Khan.
In the course of conversation, he told us that the
ink used in the province was made from a sap ex
tracted from the orange-tree, mixed with the soot
of naphtha smoke, and was very good and durable.
Kafshigeeree contains about an hundred and fifty
houses ; they are all small, and thatched, with the
exception of one in the centre, the residence of
Baugher Khan, which is a large tiled house situated
in the midst of a garden.
The Sesame, called Kunjiud, is extensively culti
vated in this district. The seed is often sprinkled
on the flat bread of the country, and the oil pro
duced from it is eaten by the Toorcomans, and
largely consumed in the manufacture of soap, a
principal article of exportation from Astrabad. The
oil is also used as a medicine.
Jan. 19. Having breakfasted in public for the
amusement of a respectable assembly of some
two dozen open-mouthed natives, who completely
blocked up both windows of our room, we departed
for Astrabad.
During the day, there was a smart gale from the
west ; the wind was what the Persians call " baud-
i-gherm" (hot wind), a kind of sirocco, which caused
me a head-ache, and a very unpleasant feverish sen
sation. Our Meerza entertained me with his execrations
against the villagers* " Burnt fathers," he said, " I
lay on my baggage all night ; but no sooner had I
closed an eye, than I felt something being pulled
s 2

260 OUR GHOLAUM.
from under me ! — I did not sleep a wink ; they
would rob their own fathers : may their graves be
defiled.! " It appeared, that these people's idea of
meum and tuum was almost as vague and undefined
as that of their Toorcoman neighbours. The dis
tance from Kafshigeeree to Astrabad is about three
fursucks over a flat country, skirting the mountains,
partly cultivated and partly overrun with jungle ;
the road was very good for these provinces, passing
through several villages.
The previous evening we had sent on our Gho
laum to deliver letters, and our firmaun to the
Governor ; and consequently, at about a mile from
the town, we were met by a gay and very numerous
istakball. The Gholaum, who was a droll little
man, seemed quite delighted at the extent of the
procession ; and dressed in his gayest clothes, gal
loped about with a long spear in his hand to the
imminent peril of various members of the crowd.
He had formerly been in the service of Suleiman
Khan ; but from his not receiving any pay, added to
some additional cause of complaint, he left his family
and went over to Ardeshir Meerza in Mauzunde
roon. On arriving at the boundary of Astrabad, he
told us he was afraid to accompany us any
further, lest Suleiman Khan should seize and beat
him ; but, on being assured that nothing of the kind
could happen while he was with us, he recovered
his usual composure, and appeared glad of the
opportunity of again seeing his family. He now
said, that when he presented our letters to the
Governor the night before, he looked at him most

ARRIVAL AT ASTRABAD. 261
fiercely a long time, and then asked him if his belly
had not been well enough filled that he had run
away from him — an awful pause ensued, and the
Gholaum, anxious to change the subject, took upon
himself to enumerate a long catalogue of the honours
heaped upon us by Ardeshir Meerza, and eloquently
described a procession of horse and foot sent out
by that Prince to meet us, which never existed save
in his own inventive imagination ; but to which,
perhaps, we were in a measure indebted for the
attention now paid us, which was far greater than
we had any right to expect.
On entering the town of Astrabad, a couple of
files of matchlock men were drawn up, and a body
of ten or twelve feroshes headed our now imposing
procession, and led the way to the palace. Here
we dismounted, and passing through several courts
were shown into a private garden, in the centre of
which stood a small summer-house and fountain,
where we found Suleiman Khan. He is a handsome
and perfectly well-mannered man, of about forty
years of age, and received us with great cordiality.
He is of the Kadger tribe, and a nobleman of high
rank. His sister is one of the King's wives, though
not a particular favourite, as her nose is a trifle too
much hooked: a peculiarity which runs in the
family, and is held by the Persians to be very dis
figuring. I have seen men that we should term
handsome, considered just the reverse merely from
having aquiline noses.
In Fathy Ali Shah's time, Suleiman Khan lived
in a house of his own at Tehraun as a private gen-

262 SULEIMAN KHAN.
tleman ; but, for some political reasons, his property
was confiscated and he was thrown into prison. He
remained there for some months, when he was set
at liberty and turned adrift on the world without a
penny. He then became a dervish and wandered
for a year and a-half in Khorassaun, and the Toorco
man desert between Astrabad and Khiva, where he
says he was always kindly treated by the Toorco
mans. When the present Shah ascended the
throne Suleiman Khan returned to Tehraun, and
through Hadgee Meerza Aghassee, the prime mi
nister, got some trifling appointment at Tabreez,
acting, I believe, as a spy on the late Ameer-i-Ni-
zaum ; and, after his death, he obtained the govern
ment of Astrabad.
The circumstances which led to his appointment
are singular, and will serve as an instance of the
manner in which persons are sometimes appointed
to different posts without the slightest reference to
their abilities or qualifications. An artisan even, in
Persia may, by the revolutions of Fortune's wheel,
become a Shah ; and I have heard it remarked, that
there is hardly a man who has not some idea of the
possibility of his becoming king. An envoy in Persia
once remarked, that the first person to whom he
should put such a question would not laugh at the
idea nor deny the possibility of the event. A poor
Meerza was called and asked by the Envoy, 'whether
he considered it possible that he should be, one day,
the Shah of Persia. The man seemed to consider
the question for a moment very seriously, and then
replied, " God knows."

MANNER THE KHAN OBTAINED HIS POST. 263
There is at Tehraun a son of Fathy Ali Shah, Ali
Kooly Meerza, whose mother the Hadgee married,
and having no children of his own, he took a great
liking to the boy, adopted him as his son, and always
finds excuses for his various excesses. He is a most
dissolute vagabond, generally goes by the name of
Hadgeeoglu (Hadgee's son), and lives in great
state, which he keeps up by means of the bribes he
receives for asking his adopted father to bestow
places, pensions, and other good things in his gift
to those applicants who pay best. As he has great
influence with the Hadgee, who seldom refuses his
requests, there is no lack of cash in his coffers.
One morning Suleiman Khan went out hunting in
the train of Alii Kooly Meerza, and it so hap
pened that the same morning had also been chosen
for a hunting excursion by Mohamed Cossim Khan,
a son of the Ferosh-bashi (chief of the Feroshes), a
powerful nobleman. The two parties took nearly
the same direction, and were not far from each
other when Mohamed Cossim Khan's dogs started
an antelope, and gave chase; the animal ran past
the Prince, who fired and killed it just before the
dogs. Mohamed Cossim Khan coming up de
manded it as his own, and expostulated with the
Prince for interfering with his sport. Alii Kooly
Meerza refused to give up the antelope ; high words
ensued, and both parties being heated with wine, a
fight took place, in which the Prince cut his antago
nist's head open with his kummer, and several persons
on both sides were severely wounded. When this
became known to the Ferosh-bashi he made bitter

2b"4 A GHOLAUM WOUNDED BY A TOORCOMAN.
complaints to the Shah, who was very angry, in
sisted on knowing the rights of the story, and send
ing for the Hadgee, lectured him on the shameful
behaviour of his proteg6, which was daily com
plained of in some way or other. The Hadgee de
fended his son, and became sulky. For some time
no one would say anything either way, fearing the
consequences, as both parties were very powerful;
but at last Suleiman Khan came forward with a
most plausible account of the affair, which he had
witnessed from beginning to end ; swore on the
Koran that the Prince was perfectly right, and his
opponent consequently wrong, and by dint of a few
lies, and a plausible tongue, which he possesses in
an eminent degree, he managed completely to ex
culpate the Prince, much to the Hadgee's delight.
Two days afterwards Suleiman Khan was made
Governor of Astrabad, to the astonishment of every
body, as these places are generally handsomely paid
for, and it was well known that he did not possess a
kurraun ; since then he has probably been endea
vouring to put his treasury in a more flourishing
condition to meet future emergencies.
While we were sitting in the summer-house
taking tea and talking, a Gholaum was brought
forward, who had been called to show two gashes
in liis head and shoulder received from a Toorco
man, during the Khan's absence at Tehraun. An
order had been issued, that on account of the
failure of the crops, no rice should be sold to the
Toorcoman tribes ; the Gholaum found a man trans
gressing this order, and, as a servant of the govern-"

HUMZA KHAN. 265
ment, interfered to prevent the sale; whereupon
the buyer, a Toorcoman, drew his sword, and in
flicted the wounds. The man had been taken,
and was to pay a fine of five horses, two of which
were to be given to the Gholaum, and three to
the Governor. It was at first intended to kill
the delinquent, but the levying a fine had after
wards been determined on, as more profitable to
all parties. This is one of many similar cases,
which are frequently occurring here.
A crowd of attendants were present, and the
" Reish-i-Sefeed" (white beards), of the place were
introduced to us, and a variety of compliments paid
on the occasion. All were soon dismissed, and the
Khan himself showed us to our lodgings, two small
rooms of an unfinished house, in a corner of the gar
den, exhibiting most unpleasant symptoms of damp.
In the evening Suleiman Khan dined with us,
and was accompanied by Humza Khan, the chief
of the Anazon district, a little, stout man, with a
very black beard and yellow face, evidently a fa
vourite, from a talent he possessed of saying " Belli,
belli," (yes, yes,) in answer to every word uttered
by his superior.
In the course of conversation remarks being
made upon the nature and character of the inha
bitants of Astrabad, the Khan said, " Oh, they are
beasts, rascals ; they are very bad ;" and told us that,
a few days since, one of them had enticed an aged
uncle into the desert, and there sold him for eight
kurrauns to a Toorcoman, with whom he had ap
pointed a meeting for the purpose ! that he, (the

266 SALE OF AN UNCLE.
Khan), had heard of this, and by good luck man
aged to seize both the buyer and seller ; and that,
considering this a horrid crime, requiring a severe
example, he proposed, on the morrow, to boil the
Astrabaddee in a cauldron, and then kill the Toor
coman, having first made him breakfast on a boiled
leg of the nephew ! The Khan drank off his wine
and smacked his lips, as he said this, with infinite
satisfaction and composure, and Humza Khan seem
ed to think the sentence unexceptionable, as, strok
ing his beard, he muttered Belli, belli, Inshallah !
inshallah (please God). It appeared to us, how
ever, rather horrible than otherwise, and we begged
that some more merciful mode of punishment should
be adopted. " What you say is very true," observed
the Khan, " mercy is a very good thing in its way,
but you little know the people I have to deal with :
— were I not to make an example of this fellow, in
less than a week, by your fortunate heads, there
would not be an uncle left in all Astrabad ! How
ever, as you have made the request, we will try •
to find some other punishment." " Belli, belli,"
chimed in Humza Khan.
The dinner was a nondescript sort of thing,
consisting of various kebobs, pillaws, pickles, sher
bets, wine, and rum. It was something similar
to that of Ardeshir Meerza, but not quite so te
dious, though it lasted at least three hours. Su
leiman Khan was completely at his ease, took off
his cap (not to differ from ourselves ; though the
Persians seldom or never do so but in the an
deroon,) and drank his wine, as did Humza Khan,

SCENERY. 267
without the slightest hesitation or scruple. Two
singers were called in who performed till long
after we were tired of hearing their monotonous
quaverings. At last the Khan began to sing him
self, and gape, roll about, and laugh, when there
was nothing to laugh at; and finally, after being
exceedingly puzzled to know why he could not
snuff the candles, bade us good night with a pe
culiarly benevolent expression of countenance, and
many shakes of the hand.
During the night the wind blew most violently,
but the morning turned out bright and calm. The
Governor breakfasted with us, and afterwards took
us to a small summer-house, which he had lately
built, a little to the south of the town, near the
foot of the mountains ; it commanded a very ex
tensive view, and as the Khan had two capital
English telescopes we were the better enabled to
enjoy it. Before us at a few hundred yards dis
tance to the north-west were the mud walls and
ruined towers of Astrabad, and from the west
round the horizon as far as north-east were
stretched the plains of Gourgaun and Goklaun,
the commencement of the Toorcoman desert. To
wards the other points of the compass lay the
mountains, thickly wooded, except on the highest
peaks, which were covered with snow. Between
Astrabad and the edge of the steppe runs a tract
of country four miles broad, which extends west
and east as far as the eye can reach. This belt
is partly wooded and partly cultivated, being to
wards the south separated from the desert by the

268 SCENERY.
river Karasoo, the waters of which were occasion
ally seen as they sparkled in the sunbeams. The
ruins of the walls and fortifications of Augkaleh
lay on the other side of the river due north, about
ten miles in the desert. This town formerly be
longed to the Kadjers, but was sacked by the
Toorcomans sixty years ago, and has since been
uninhabited. The bare rocky summit of the moun
tain of Moraun bore due east thirty-two miles
distant, where are to be found the remains of an
old fortress called Moraun Kaleh, consisting now
of a well, a dungeon, and a small open space.
It is only accessible by one path, and that is dif
ficult. About twenty- five years ago Mohamed
Zemaun Khan, Kadjer, then Governor of Astra
bad, having rebelled against Fathy Ali Shah, seized
all the chiefs of his tribe on whom he could lay
hands, and confined them in this castle, which, in
case of necessity, would probably be again used
as a prison or place of safety. The rebel was
afterwards taken and put to a cruel death, his
eyes being first pulled out, and then his teeth
drawn and hammered into his head.
We remained in this summer-house talking and
drinking tea, sherbets, and wine, until sunset ; when
the Khan made his Namaz (said his prayers), taking
a tumbler of wine and smoking a kalleoon in an
interval of his devotions, which I may observe were
none of the longest.
We then returned to our quarters, and soon after
wards dinner was served; our host was in high
spirits, and proposed a shooting party ; and, at the

DISCOMPOSURE OF SULEIMAN KHAN. 269
same time, a visit to the desert on the morrow, to
which we agreed. He continued laughing and
joking during the greater part of the evening, until,
while pouring out a glass of rum for one of his
singers, he suddenly made a pause — put down the
bottle — frowned — pulled his beard and mustachios,
pushed his plate away from him, and exhibited signs
of being excessively annoyed and angry. We could
not understand this at all ; no one had said or done
any thing to offend him, and yet his demeanour had
totally changed in a moment. At last, seeing that
he remained silent, we asked what was the matter?
" Nothing," he replied, " it is nothing;" and fixed
his eyes fiercely on the mutton. On pressing him a
little, we found that in pouring out the rum, he had
happened to spill a little on the table-cloth, and felt
exceedingly annoyed and ashamed, thinking that we
should suppose him tipsy. We had neither of us
noticed the trifling accident which had so discon
certed him ; and having assured him, that the same
frequently happened to ourselves without anything
of the kind being suspected, he resumed his dinner,
but all his gaiety was effectually routed for the re
mainder of the evening, and he soon after rose to
depart, saying, he would send to awaken us early on
the morrow, that we might have a long day before us.
Jan. 21. About an hour after we were dressed,
a man came to say that the Khan was ready, and
conducted us to an open court near his anderoon,
where we found him surrounded by a motley assem
bly of retainers, armed and dressed in almost every
possible variation of eastern costume. Some were

270 THE PARTY.
already mounted; some were on foot examining
their weapons, and others were holding the horses
of the Governor, and the various khans in attend
ance. Suleiman Khan's son, a beautiful little lad
of about nine years old, who appeared his father's
pet, was loading his diminutive gun in high glee,
and impatient to be off.
After the usual salutations, and when we were
mutually satisfied as to the fatness of each other's
brains and the state of our spirits, we mounted.
Six or eight wretchedly-accoutred horse-soldiers in
fancy uniforms, no two being alike, headed the pro
cession ; and their trumpeter, dressed in an old,
stained red coat, much too small for him, and slit all
across the shoulders, having sounded his cracked in
strument, the cavalcade moved off.
At the gates of the town, the guard of match^
lock men, who are always in attendance, presented
arms, and here all those who were on foot were dis
missed and returned, while we proceeded across the
country at a brisker pace. Our party amounted to
seventy or eighty well-armed horsemen, as the Khan
would have had strong objections to trust himself in
an ober of Toorcomans with a smaller number ; and
we also thought that their presence added much
to the gaiety and pleasure of the excursion, particu
larly as we wished to come back again the same
evening, and had no inclination whatever to learn to
tend cattle in the vicinity of the Oxus, or the Lake
Aral. During the ride I amused myself talking to
the little boy before-mentioned : he had lately ac
companied his father to Tehraun; but, he said, in

MET BY SOME TOORCOMAN CHIEFS. 271
his "opinion, Astrabad was a much more lively resi
dence than the capital : near the former, he said,
was the desert ; and he could ride and shoot, . and
make chappows against the Toorcomans ; [but the
latter was all enclosed by walls ; and when one did
ride outside, there was nobody to fight with, and no
shooting. I could not help laughing at the idea of
the little fellow making chappows against the Toor
comans ; and asked him how many he had slain on
these occasions: "Oh!" he said, "not any yet;"
Inshallah ! he hoped to do so some day or other ;
but he had seen a great many killed, which had de
lighted him amazingly.
Near the edge of the steppe we passed the village
of Mehmet-abad, surrounded by a deep ditch, and
having a mud tower in the centre, pierced with loop
holes for musketry. Soon afterwards we got clear
of the jungle, and were met by a small body of
Toorcomans, among whom were Orauz Kooly Khan,
Omer Khan, Oderboy Khan, and several other chiefs,
who had come to welcome our host. They were
mounted on fine horses, but were poorly dressed, and
one would not by any means have taken them for
chieftains. Some of them had scanty beards, but
many none at all ; and their features were different
from those of the Persians. They accompanied us
to the edge of the Karasoo, which is more like a
moordaub than a river, there being scarcely any
current, and the banks being marshy, and covered
with reeds. Ten or twelve nohs were here prepared
for us, in which we embarked, each sportsman hav
ing one to himself. A number of natives with

272 SINGULAR SHOOTING PARTY.
matchlocks were despatched all round the edges of
the neighbouring swamps among the reeds, to raise
the birds should they take refuge there. We found
at first nothing but bald-coots, which, as usual, were
in great quantities : the boats spread in a long line
across the water, and drove them all into one corner,
whence they flew over our heads, and a tremendous
fire was opened on them, each person having two or
three guns : every time a bird fell, the boatmen
shouted " Barikellah ! " (well done,) and the laughing
and splashing, with the other accompaniments of the
scene, rendered this shooting-party one of the most
original I ever witnessed. The coots having now
fled to the other end of the swamp, we turned
about, and repaired thither in a long line, each one
recounting his own exploits, and rallying his neigh
bour's. Here, two sportsmen were in violent dis
pute, concerning their mutual claims to a bird which
both had fired at, and of which nothing remained
but* a wing or a leg, the rest having been blown to
atoms — there, some awkward gentleman had just
let off his gun by mistake, and carried away part of
the side of his boat, much to his own terror and
that of his friends, who strenuously advised him to
give up shooting altogether, or practise it by him
self. One man's powder was expended, and he was
shouting to those nearest him (who appeared ex
ceedingly deaf), for a fresh supply; and an old
khan, who had been staring at me for some ten
minutes or more, discovered that during that time
he had been trailing the butt end of his matchlock
in the water, wetting the match, and effectually

HEAD-DRESS OF THE TOORCOMAN WOMEN. 273
putting his gun hors-de-combat for the remainder of
the day — to console himself for which, he com
menced a string of execrations against the weapon
and the man who made it, and his grandfather, and
grandmother, and wife, and all his generation, add
ing, " might their livers dry up !" The rear was
brought up in rather a novel manner by the Khan's
singer, who made himself black in the face with his
exertions : for whose amusement these were intended
it was impossible to say, as none of the sportsmen
ever thought of him. Having arrived at the other
end of the moordaub, we found an immense quan
tity of ducks ; very few, however, were killed, and
we had again recourse to the coots, which we fol
lowed backwards and forwards till all were heartily
tired ; when mounting our horses, we repaired to
breakfast at Nargisse Tuppeh, where was an en
campment of the Jaffer Boy tribe.
On arriving, we were met by the male part
of the inhabitants, and a more ragged, dirty-look
ing set of vagabonds I never set eyes on. The
women remained at the doors of the tents ; their
head-dresses were the most unbecoming sort of
things, in that way, I ever saw. I had no op
portunity of examining one closely, and cannot
presume to say how or of what it is made, but
in appearance .it resembled a large bandbox, deco
rated in front with rows of gold and silver coins,
and covered on the top and behind by a kind
of veil of printed calico, or some other stuff, which
hung down nearly to the heels. The Toorcoman
women are not confined in the same manner as
T

274 THE ENCAMPMENT.
the Persian, and do not totally conceal their faces ;
it is considered indelicate, however, to expose the
mouth and throat, which are, therefore, always
covered with a white bandage.
The ober consisted of forty or fifty circular tents,
with dome-like tops, and we were conducted to
that of the chief, who happened to be absent.
It was formed of trellis-work, which could be
taken to pieces and folded up, covered outside
with thick nummuds ; in the centre of the floor
a small hole was dug for the fire, and the smoke
escaped through an opening in the top, which
could be closed at pleasure by a fold of the num-
mud ; in short, the general formation of these tents
is very similar to those of the Shahsevens of Mish
keen, already described. The floor was spread with
carpets and felts, and the sides hung round with
various bags containing provisions, and there were
also several large wooden boxes, in which the
baggage is packed when on a march. We were
received by the wife of the great man, a little,
old lady, who, though ugly and shrivelled, looked
uncommonly clean and respectable. She said we
were welcome, and made a few answers to the
numerous compliments of Suleiman Khan, but she
could not be prevailed on to sit down, and soon
left the tent. She was a curious figure, and it
is difficult to describe her costume. Her hands
were adorned with several large cornelian rings,
and I could perceive the ends of various robes
and trowsers, of blue, white, and scarlet, but could
form no idea of their internal economy or arrange-

A SINGER. 275
ment, as she was almost entirely enveloped by a
white veil depending from the hideous headgear,
which was so large, and she so small, that her
face appeared nearly in the centre of her body.
When she had departed, a good-looking, merry
old fellow, one of the white-beards of the en
campment, at the request of the Khan, brought
a small two-stringed instrument, something like
a guitar, which he touched with great skill, and
sometimes produced a wild and pleasing har
mony. After a short prelude, he sang a comic
song with much spirit ; I did not understand a
word, but I could easily perceive from his style,
tone, and gesture, that'he was no mean artist.
The tent was then cleared for breakfast, but,
with the exception of a couple of kids roasted
whole and some yoghoort, (sour milk,) it was pre
pared by the Khan's people, and needs no descrip
tion. The repast over, we went outside, and the
Khan threw some small coins among the children
to scramble for, and made them run races and
wrestle, to the infinite delight of the breechless
young ragamuffins, who endeavoured to cheat each
other in every possible manner.
As it was getting late, we mounted and rode
to the river. Several horses had been led out
before us which were presents to the Khan ; none
of them were very famous. A couple of felt horse
cloths were presented to us.
We were now on the Gourgaun side of the
Karasoo, which we had crossed in the boats after
shooting ; the horses had been brought, by a cir-
T 2

276 RETURN TO ASTRABAD.
cuitous route, over a rude bridge of sticks and
reeds. We again embarked, and, while the cattle
were being conducted by the bridge to the other
side, commenced another attack on the bald coots.
Having slaughtered some fifty or sixty more, we
reached the opposite shore just as the sun set.
We had about four miles to ride back to Astrabad,
and, as the Khan and his people were going to
say their namaz, we took leave of them at once,
and, with our own attendants, made the best of
our way home.
The evening was very cold and damp ; an un
wholesome vapour rose from the jungle, and it
was long after dark before we reached Astrabad,
feeling very tired, and having severe headaches
from the heat of the sun, to which we had been
exposed all day. Suleiman Khan arrived soon
afterwards, and, with true good breeding, seeing
that we were much fatigued, made some excuses
and declined troubling us any more for the even
ing, and, having given orders that everything we
wished for should be supplied, bade us good night.
About an hour afterwards, we retired to rest;
and, all night long, Barikellahs, coots, match
locks, moordaubs, and Toorcoman head-dresses, were
mixed up in my brain in one long confused dream,
till I woke with a violent start the next morning,
fully persuaded that I was shot through the small
of my back, while a frightful Barikellah was still
ringing in my ears.

277

CHAPTER XV.
A Squirrel Hunter. — Yussuf Khan. — Astrabad. — Bazars.— Streets.
— The Palace. — Artillery. — Trade  Revenue. — Province of
Astrabad. < — Administration. — The Governor and the Toorco
mans. — Border Warfare.— Character of the Toorcomans. — Their
Appearance — Their Trade. — Horses. — Revenue of the Province.
—Military Force.— Probable Population  The Climate.— The
Roads. — Rivers. — Fisheries. — Productions. — Coal in Shahkoo.
— Antiquities.
Jan. 23. This morning some game was brought,
which had been killed by the native sportsmen.
There were several pheasants, and two or three
francolins. These, and the little bustard, are every
where abundant in the desert ; the pheasants were
killed in the jungle. Apropos of sporting, there is
a man here, a perfect phenomenon in that way. He
is a squirrel- catcher, and these animals are very nu
merous at Astrabad. He hunts entirely by scent,
smelling about the trees, till he comes to a hole,
indicated by his nose as the residence of a squirrel ;
he then sticks in a long iron rod, with a hook at
the end, and seldom fails to draw out the inha
bitant. The skins are, I believe, used in making
pelisses, though I am not certain, as the Persians
are very scrupulous in the use of furs, some of
which they will not wear ; of these they say, " Na-

278 YUSSUF KHAN.
maz ne dared," literally " It has not prayer,"
meaning that it is not lawful to pray in a dress
of that kind of skin. If, on the contrary, it is
not forbidden, they say " Namaz dared," " It has
prayer." The fur of the polecat is their most usual
and favourite wear.
This day, and the greater part of the next, we re
mained at home writing letters, as a chuppar was
about to be despatched to Tehraun.
In the evening we received a visit from one
Yussuf Khan, a Khivian, who, in the course of
conversation regarding Bokhara, and the unfortu
nate English detained or murdered there, said that
he had only heard of the death of one of them, who,
from his account, appeared to be Captain Conolly.
Yussuf Khan expected to be at Bokhara during the
spring, and promised most faithfully to inform us
correctly whether either of them were alive ; or, if
executed, of the particulars of their death. It is
impossible to say how far this man could be relied
on ; but it little matters, as every doubt which ex
isted as to the fate of the unfortunate captives has
been removed, by the bold and philanthropic jour
ney undertaken by the Rev. Dr. Wolff.
For the last two days the weather had been
cloudy and windy, aud a considerable quantity of
snow had fallen on the mountains. On the twenty
fifth, after breakfast, I walked to a hill to the
south-west of the city, where once stood a mud
fortress; the only remains are the traces of the
walls, and a few heaps of rubbish. From thence
there was a tolerable bird's-eye view of Astrabad,

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ASTRABAD. 279
after sketching which, I returned home through
the bazars.
Astrabad, or Istrabad, the chief and only city of
the province, is situated at the foot of the moun
tains, on the south-east angle of the Caspian. The
meaning of the name is " star inhabited," from
" Istara," a star, and " Abad," inhabited, It is
enclosed within a crenellated mud wall, about
eighteen feet high, and four miles in circumfer
ence, flanked by a series of round-towers. The
wall has once been strengthened by a ditch, now,
in most places, filled up. These defences, particu
larly on the north and eastern sides of the town,
are in ruins, and would oppose no obstacle to an
attack. There are three gateways, one to the west,
where the walls are in the best repair, one to the
south, and one to the north-east; they are roofed,
and have small chambers on each side, serving
as a lodging for the guard. The jungle, which for
merly approached close to the walls on all sides,
has in a great measure disappeared, and given place
to cultivation.
The present town by no means fills up the space
enclosed, which is partly occupied by gardens and
heaps of rubbish, the remains of former habitations.
It is divided into three mahalehs, and is said to
contain between two thousand, and two thousand
three hundred houses. These are built with mud,
or sun-dried bricks, in the same open style as those
throughout Gheelaun and Mauzunderoon. Many of
them have small gardens filled with orange, pome
granate, cherry, and other fruit-trees ; and the tops

280 BAZARS.
of the walls being planted with irises, gilliflowers,
and stocks, the place in spring has a very cheerful
and pleasing appearance. Mr. Fraser makes men
tion of lofty baudgheers, (wind-catchers), but I could
not see any, and was informed that none existed ;
the only building, anything like one, was the tall,
square minaret of a mosque, which might have been
taken for a baudgheer.
Astrabad possesses some ten or twelve medres-
sahs, and eight or nine of those reservoirs for cool
ing water, called aub-ambars, before alluded to at
Saree. The town is inhabited by the natives of the
province, among whom may be reckoned four hundred
families of the Kadjar tribe; but here, as in all
other Asiatic towns, it is impossible to form a just
idea of the population, as the number of individuals
composing a family differs so widely according to
the rank and consideration of its head. During
the winter the weather is generally mild, though
damp and unhealthy ; but the heat in summer be
comes intense : and at that season, the Governor
with about two hundred of the richer inhabitants,
retire to their yeilauks, situated among the moun
tains, on one of the roads to Tehraun.
There are thre caravanserais adjoining the bazars,
which are about the extent of those of Saree, and
exhibit the same kind of merchandise, though the
shops are not so well furnished, nor is there an
appearance of equal activity. They are meanly
built, and in some places in ruins.
The streets were all originally paved, probably by
Shah Abbas, when he made the causeway; and

THE PALACE. — ARTILLERY. 281
though they have, doubtless, been occasionally re
paired, the present condition of the principal tho
roughfares is very dilapidated. They are partly
broken up, and the channels by which the water
used to run off being thus interrupted, pools are
formed, which become larger every day by the
loosening of the adjacent stones. Some of the less
frequented streets are in better condition, and the
paving is sound though uneven.
There are neither ancient nor modern buildings
of any interest. The palace, where the Governor
resides, was built by Aga Mohamed Khan ; it con
sists of several audience-halls and other apartments,
the principal of which, though now spoilt and half
in ruins, were once gaily decorated with gilding and
paintings. There are also two or three large square
courts, and a private garden, where we lodged. In
one of the gateways of the former the artillery of
the town is kept, consisting of two field-pieces, one
of nine pounds and the other of four. This latter
was an English gun, bearing the date of 1805.
They are in charge of a Sultaun or captain, and
thirty-five topchees (artillerymen). The Anderoon
is a separate building, surrounded by high walls and
situated a short distance from the palace, towards
the south.
Some forty or fifty petty merchants, residing at
Astrabad, carry on a trade with the surrounding
provinces. Some of it is in transit to Meshed, and
the chools and nummuds of the Toorcomans are
sent to Tehraun, and from thence to all parts of
Persia ; the remainder seems to be almost entirely

282 TRADE.
confined to the consumption of the town and neigh
bouring villages.
The imports from Tehraun are, European manu
factures, chiefly English, also silks and velvets from
Cashan. Russia — cloth, iron, glass, hardware, painted
boxes, loaf-sugar, prints, chinaware, and a very small
quantity of tea.
Khiva — ox-hides and various skins.
Meshed — a few cloaks and other manufactures.
Toorcomans — nummuds, chools, salt, horses, and
naphtha. The exports are : soap, of which a great deal is
manufactured here, and goes to all the neighbouring
provinces. Oil of sesame and the seed, sent to Russia and
the neighbouring provinces, and also used in the
manufacture of soap.
Chools and nummuds in transit to all parts of
Persia and also to Russia.
Manufactures of Cashan and British goods, in
transit to Meshed.
Rice and corn, to the Toorcomans.
Cotton ; a small quantity to Russia and Ghee
laun. No duties are levied on the inland trade on this
side of the mountains. The Russians pay the usual
five per cent. The customs are farmed by the Go
vernor; but though I questioned him several times
on the subject, he evidently wished to evade it,
and each time gave a widely different reply.
I endeavoured to ascertain from the merchants

TRADE. 283
the quantities of the respective goods, and the total
annual amount of this trade; but I received such
contradictory and unsatisfactory information that it
would be useless to attempt any specification. I
believe that no one is well-informed as to its
extent or value ; it cannot, however, be consider
able. During two years a Russian Armenian imported
goods to the amount of about thirty thousand to
mauns. He sold them at exceedingly low prices ;
he gave large presents to the different influential
people, and made every endeavour to conciliate the
natives ; yet last year when he began to erect store
houses near the village of Gez, an outcry was raised
that he was building a fort, and the works were
burnt down by order of Humza Khan. All his
efforts to settle in the country have hitherto proved
unavailing ; and I have heard both the Governor
and Humza Khan repeatedly declare that they
would never allow a Russian to establish himself.
This year, at the expected time, the Armenian did
not appear ; and the attempt has, probably, been
given up in disgust. It is universally believed that
this Armenian was an agent, and the goods the
property of the Russian government. The chief
ground for the supposition was, that no private mer
chant could have afforded to give so much in pre
sents, while selling at such unusually low prices;
something, also, must be allowed for the extreme
jealousy with which the Russians are regarded.
The revenue derived from the town amounts to
six hundred tomauns, of which a hundred is the

284 REVENUE. — PROVINCE OF ASTRABAD.
property of the Crown, and the remainder belongs
to the Governor. The office of Durrogha (head of
police) is farmed for two hundred and fifty to
mauns, and the remainder is derived from the taxes
on shops.
The province of Astrabad is bounded on the
west by Mauzunderoon, on the south by the Elburz
chain, and on the north and east by the Caspian
and the plains Gourgaun and Goklaun.
It is divided into the following districts under
their respective Governors : —
Anazon, governed by Humza Khan.
Seddem Rustauk, by Mohamed Vallee Khan.
Astrabad (city and province), governed by Sulei
man Khan.
Astrabad Rustauk, governed by Ali Asker Khan.
Katool — including the districts , ,.. .
„ „ . . , , ° /by Mohamed
of t akr-imaud-u-deen, now waste > A ,. ™
.,,.,, Saadi Khan.
and uninhabited . . . . ;
Kaboot Iameh — including the \ by Meerza Assa-
districts of Fenderesk, Freng, For- / doollah Khan,
sian, Chenesk, Conchi, Sorver, and I Governor
Shahkoo  /of Goklaun.
The two former lie to the west of Astrabad; Ka-
bout Iameh, along the south ; Astrabad Rustauk to
the north ; and the remainder to the east : but their
relative positions, and the names of the tribes gene
rally dwelling on the plains of Gourgaun opposite
them, will be better seen by the following rough
sketch. The general administration is entirely in the hands
of Suleiman Khan. He is active ; and considering

THE GOVERNOR AND TOORCOMANS. 285
his difficult position, governing a frontier province,
always exposed to the inroads of his neighbours, he
seems to maintain it in tolerable order and security;
and the condition of the peasantry is not worse than
in Mauzunderoon.
Some time in February he intended to make his
annual visit to the Toorcomans, accompanied by a
body of about three thousand horse and foot, to ob
tain reparation for the thefts committed during the
year, and also to collect the revenue. On inquiring
how his men were supported while in the desert,
he said, that he always gave them a month's no
tice that he should require their services for forty
days ; and that each man must bring his food, and
otherwise provide for himself during that time : if
they were kept out longer, the Khan bore the ex
pense. Encampments of the tribes noted in the sketch,
always remain about the same grounds, summer and
winter. In summer, however, they are much more
numerous and powerful ; as towards winter a great
many retire to the vicinity of Khiva, leaving com
paratively few behind. It is then that the Governor
seizes the opportunity to make them pay their dues,
and give satisfaction for thefts committed in the
summer. " During six months of the year," said
the Khan, " I am obliged to be very civil to them ;
they steal without much fear of consequences, and
can almost do what they like ; but in the remaining
six months comes my turn, and I thus manage to
keep pretty even with them." There is, however, a
continual border warfare carried on ; and many are the

286 BORDER WARFARE.
stratagems of defence and offence resorted to on
both sides. Some time ago, the Khan had estab
lished a set of private signals with the different dis
tricts around Astrabad, by means of his guns ; so
that when news was brought that the Toorcomans
were making a chappow at such a place, one, two,
or three guns were fired, as had been agreed on, to
indicate that particular direction, and all who heard
the sounds hastened to the spot. The enemy, how
ever, soon became acquainted with the meaning of
the signals; and whenever they heard them, sent
succour to the scene of action. The Governor per
ceiving this, and wishing to make reprisals on a
certain encampment which had been plundering ex
tensively, set out one morning with a party of men ;
and having arrived at the edge of the desert within
sight of the tents, concealed himself in the jungle.
He then despatched a man to Astrabad, with orders
to the artillerymen to fire the signal for an attack
in a different quarter. The guns were heard by both
parties ; and the Toorcomans thinking that some of
their friends were engaged in a foray, immediately
armed, mounted, and hurried off to their assistance
in the designated direction, leaving their own camp
entirely unprotected, which, as soon as they were
fairly gone, Suleiman Khan attacked and plundered,
carrying off three hundred old men, women and
children, besides cattle. He was now meditating
how to keep them more effectually in order, and
talked of building three towers along the frontier,
to be garrisoned by matchlock men ; but, unless he
is assisted by Government, which I think rather

CHARACTER OF THE TOORCOMANS. 287
unlikely, things will, in all probability, remain as
they are.
These tribes also plunder one another, as well as
their Astrabad neighbours. Last year an ober in
Goklaun received secret news, that on a certain
day a body of three hundred men, from a distant
encampment, intended to attack them. On hearing
this they immediately armed a similar party, and
laying an ambush in a small defile, through which
the invaders had to pass, fell on them unexpectedly,
killed nearly every man, and took all their horses.
The affair soon came to the ears of the Governor,
who hastened to the place, claiming a considerable
number of the cattle as his right, and, according to
custom, sent the skins of the dead men's heads to
Tehraun, as a present to the Shah.
As a people, the Toorcomans cannot be called
brave. They never attack, unless in such numbers
that resistance is useless ; and their object being
merely plunder, they will never fight when it can
possibly be avoided. They have a profound objec
tion to fire-arms, particularly cannon; and Sulei
man Khan assured me, that at the sight of three or
four Astrabaddee matchlock-men, he had seen a
body of some forty horsemen take to flight with the
utmost precipitation. The Toorcoman is generally
armed with a curved sabre and a spear, much longer
than that used by the Koords ; some have also pis
tols and a gun. I saw no fine men among them the
day I visited the "encampment at Nargisse Tuppeh;
they were of low stature, and had a thievish and
disagreeable expression of countenance, in many

288 THEIR TRADE. — HORSES.
cases heightened by the scanty and irregular tufts of
hair on their chins, which are objects of great pride
to the fortunate possessor, as beards are of rare oc
currence among them.
They send to Astrabad naphtha, from the island
of Tcheleken ; salt from Balkan, and chools, num
muds, and horses ; receiving in return wheat, rice,
sugar, manufactures, and some iron caldrons from
Russia, through Meshid-i-sir. Their horses are large,
bony animals, and are celebrated throughout Per
sia as possessing remarkable powers of endurance.
Those belonging to the Tucckee Toorcomans (who
dwell somewhere in the vicinity of the Lake Aral,)
are particularly esteemed, and have no manes. They
say that this is a peculiarity of the breed ; but it is,
I believe, not the fact. From the continual rubbing
of the heavy felt clothing in which the animals are
always enveloped, to the very nose, the mane is
made very rugged and unsightly. To obviate this
the hair is plucked out, and a hot iron passed over
it, which, added to the friction of the clothing, pre
vents its growing again. Yahmoot horses, however,
generally have a ragged mane ; they are clothed in
the same way as the Tucckee horses, but, I presume,
their manes are not treated like the others.
The Toorcomans, who inhabit the plains of Gour
gaun, cultivate the land, besides pasturing large herds
of cattle, and, I was told, pay a revenue of about
three kurrauns each tent per annum ; but that from
the Toorcomans on the plains of Goklaun, seven
kurrauns was required, as the land there is much
more fertile.

REVENUE. — MILITARY FORCE. 289
The total revenue of the province of Astrabad
amounts to about 12,700 tomauns :
*
6000 from the Province.
6000 „ „ Toorcomans.
600 „ „ Town.
100 „ „ Fisheries.

Tomauns 12,700

Of this 2000 tomauns are allowed the Khan as
salary, 1000 tomauns are given to his wife, and 1000
to his eldest son, making 4000 tomauns, or 2000/.,
to the Governor and family, though he probably
manages to obtain more than double that sum by
means of fines, confiscations, presents, &c. The re
mainder of the revenue is expended in the salaries of
different government officers, and a part, though I
fancy a very small one, is appropriated to the pay of
a few of the Toofenkchees, of whom the number in
this province is stated to be between two and three
thousand. They are all matchlock-men, and their
nominal pay is 10 tomauns a-year. The nature of
their service is the same as that of the armed force
in Mauzunderoon and Gheelaun.
It is as impossible to obtain any account of the
population of the province as of the town, and more
difficult to form a correct guess; however, that
part which we have seen appears to be well inha
bited, and I have been informed that on an average
each division contains about thirty villages. Suppos
ing each village to contain sixty houses, and each
house five individuals, it would give a population of
u

290 THE CLIMATE.
eighty-three thousand. It is possible that this may
be some approximation to the truth. The dress of
the people is the same as that of Mauzunderoonees,
and most of them speak both Persian and Turkish.
Besides the native peasantry, there are about a
hundred families from Karabaugh settled here,
called Maksoolees, and from a hundred and twenty
to a hundred and thirty familes of Beloochees. Of
the Kadjer tribe there are now only about five
hundred families — four hundred in the town, and a
hundred among the villages ; the rest are scattered
all over Persia with the various governors of pro
vinces, who have been chosen from this tribe, to
which the Shah belongs. It is divided into two
branches, called the Yokaribash and Ashaghabash
(the upper and lower).*
The climate of Astrabad is unwholesome, being
excessively hot in summer, and damp and often
cold in winter. Wherever we went we found the
people with bad colds and coughs, every one looked
pale and haggard, and I do not remember seeing a
rosy cheek in the whole province. There is a good
deal of rainy weather, which occurs mostly in the
spring and autumn. None, or very few, of the
natives retire to Yeilauks ; the only instance of
any change of quarters that I heard of, was from
the village of Koord-mahaleh in Seddem Rustauk,
whence about seventy families remove annually to
Resht, and return in the winter.
The roads are much the same as in Mauzunde-
* See Appendix (D).

RIVERS. — FISHERIES. 291
roon,— partly good, and partly swampy, and diffi
cult* Astrabad possesses many torrents, which, in the
autumn, become either dry, or small rivulets, but
can boast of only one river, the Korasoo. The
Gourgaun and the Attreck are in a territory in
a measure subject to Persia, and under the govern
ment of the province, but can hardly be said to
belong to it geographically. The water of the At
treck is salt in summer, when there is little of it,
as it flows through some salt soil ; but in winter,
when the river is full, the taste is not perceptible.
The Gourgaun is a fine stream, and always sweet.
There are sturgeon fisheries at the mouths of all
these streams, and also in the Bay of Astrabad,
which a year ago were rented for a hundred to
mauns. The right to them is now disputed be
tween the Armenian Stepan, the lessee of the
Mauzunderoon fisheries, and Meer Aboo Talib
Khan, of Gheelaun ; and the case has been refer
red to Tehraun.
The agricultural productions of Astrabad are, rice,
barley, wheat, cotton, and sesame.
Several kinds of kerbauz, a native manufacture
of cotton, are made, and a considerable quantity
of soap.
The mountainous districts, as indeed the whole
range of the Elburz, are rich in mineral produc
tions, particularly iron. Coal is found in Shahkoo,
but the people do not well understand how to
* See Appendix (E).

292 ANTIQUITIES.
work the mines. I was told by a man connected
with them, that twenty small shafts, or rather holes,
had been dug, but had not been carried to any depth.
A small village, called Tash (stone), has been form
ed on the spot by the workmen.
I am not aware of any antiquities, or remains,
save the mounds before mentioned, and a curious
old tower, called the Goombuz-e-Caoos, in the
plains of Gourgaun, said to have been erected by
Yezzid-ibn-Mehlub, an Arabian general, and to be
the only remains of the ancient city of Jorjan, or, as
it is now called, Gourgaun.

293

CHAPTER XVI.
An Execution. — Fate of the Nephew who sold his Uncle. — The
Moharrem. — Gibbon's Account of Hossein's Death — The Per
sian Story. — Representation of the Return of Hossein's Family to
Medina. — Effect on the Multitude. — A large Tree. — Further
Ceremonies usual at the Moharrem.
Jan. 26. Confined during the day in a small
room, the weather being too hot to go out, and in
the evening too damp and unwholesome to do so
without risk, we began to be heartily sick of As
trabad, and wished to be once more on the move.
This evening, however, an incident occurred,
which broke the usual monotony. Just before sun
set, while taking a constitutional turn in the gar
den, we heard the loud report of a cannon in the
adjoining yard ; but as it was the season of the
Moharrem, and guns were being continually dis
charged in different parts of the town, we took
no notice of the circumstance, and continued our
walk. A few minutes afterwards, Suleiman Khan
with his two sons and some attendants entered the
garden. He came towards us half laughing and
half pretending to be angry, though evidently de
lighted, and exclaimed, " Look here ! What shall I
do? This Jansiz Khan," (pointing to his eldest
son, a lad of about seventeen years of age,) " this

294 AN EXECUTION.
Jansiz Khan has been blowing away a Toorcoman
from a gun, without consulting me, or in any way
having my permission. What shall I 'do ? Vai !
Vai !" There were smiles on all the surrounding
faces, and the Khan himself could, with difficulty,
refrain from laughing ; we therefore supposed that
a joke was meant to be practised upon us, and
began to laugh likewise. Their repeated assurances
of the fact, however, soon made us understand that
there was small matter for joking, but that a hu
man being had been massacred by a boy, without
warrant or authority. " By Allah ! By your heads,
it is so !" said the Khan ; " go and see." We went,
and there lay the remains of the unfortunate wretch,.
a bloody and sickening spectacle. The legs had
been tied by the heels to the gun-carriage, and
had just fallen in front of it: the body had been
blown to atoms, and its blood and fragments were
spattered against the opposite wall. One arm had
been torn off from the shoulder, and the other.
with the head attached to it lay near. The coun
tenance was rather handsome, and as if composed in
sleep ; and though this mode of death is very hor
rible to the spectators, it must be without pain to
the victim. The man's name was Mourud Allee,
of the Otterboy tribe, a well-known offender, who
had at different times stolen four men, and sold
them as slaves at Khiva, besides carrying off quan
tities of cattle. He was caught coming into the
town for the same purpose, and the punishment
happened to be just and necessary ; but the unce
remonious manner in which it was performed, with-

THE MOHARREM. 295
out any kind of inquiry, at the order of a mere
boy, and the levity and total want of feeling ex
hibited on the occasion, were altogether disgust
ing. He died without making any supplication
for mercy, or without uttering a single word.
Jan. 27. The Khan paid us his usual visit at
breakfast, and in the course of conversation inti
mated his intention of likewise blowing away the
gentleman who had sold his uncle, saying that
the execution should take place on the morrow,
and that he would give us notice in time to wit
ness it. We, however, declined, and once more
begged that the man's life might be spared, and
some other punishment decided on. " Well," said
the Khan, " while you are here, he shall live." —
" And when we are gone ?" interrupted my friend. —
" He must die, — the Mollahs have so decided."
Several months afterwards I heard that the man's
nose, ears, a hand and a foot, had been cut off,
and that he had died in consequence. Among
such a people some degree of severity is undoubted
ly necessary, and similar examples, were they oc
casionally made, would go a great way to prevent
their malpractices ; but it is to be regretted that
sometimes governors are lenient, and allow cul
prits to escape with impunity ; at other times
they prefer the more profitable alternative of a
fine ; so that the example of a terrible fate is sel
dom presented to the people to deter them from
crime. The Moharrem began on the evening of the
twenty-first of January ; the first ten days are set

296 HOSSEIN'S DEATH.
apart for the celebration of the death of the
Imaums Hossein and Hassan, and are kept with
strict attention to religious observances. During
this season, wine-drinkers abstain from such an
infraction of their holy laws, and those at other
times little scrupulous will not eat with such as
are considered unclean by strict Sheahs. In every
mahal of the town, one or more large buildings,
called takiehs, had been prepared at the expense
of the inhabitants, or by some rich individual, as
an act of devotion, for the various performances
of the season, and were open to all classes with
out payment of any kind. They were decorated
with shawls, tinsel, festoons of artificial flowers,
evergreens, and printed callicoes, — though it ap
peared to me tbat the gay ornaments were ra
ther out of keeping with the tragic scenes to be
enacted, and with the groans and tears of the
spectators. Hassan, the elder brother of Hossein, and whose
name is associated with his in this season of mourn
ing, occupies no prominent part in history.
Hossein was the second son of Allee ; and on the
death of his father (whose eventful life was termi
nated by the poisoned dagger of an assassin, in the
mosque at Cufa), having refused to recognise Yezid,
King of Damascus, as the legitimate Caliph, was
obliged to retire to Mecca. Hossein's cause was
espoused by the inhabitants of Cufa, who invited
him to take refuge among them, acknowledging
him their lawful Caliph, and proclaiming Yezid an
usurper. The insurrection which this occasioned

hossein's death. 297
was almost immediately quelled by Obeidoollah, the
Governor of the place ; and Yezid despatched a body
of troops against Hossein, under Abadoollah, one of
his generals, who met the Imaum on his way to
Cufa, accompanied by most of his family, and a
handful of faithful adherents. A parley ensued, in
which Hossein proposed one of the three following
conditions : " That he should be allowed to return
to Medina; or, that he should be stationed in a
frontier garrison against the Turks; or be safely
conducted to the presence of Yezid. But the com
mands of the Caliph or his lieutenant were stern
and absolute; and Hossein was informed that he
must either submit, as a captive and a criminal, to
the commander of the faithful, or expect the conse
quences of his rebellion." " Do you think," replied
he, " to terrify me with death ?" — then, during the
short respite of a night, he prepared, with calm
and solemn resignation, to encounter his fate. He
checked the lamentations of his sister Fatima, who
deplored the impending ruin of his house. " Our
trust," said Hossein, " is in God alone. All things,
both in Heaven and earth, must perish, and return to
their Creator. My brother, my father, my mother,
w^re better than I ; and every Mussulman has an
example in the Prophet." He pressed bis friends to
consult their safety by a timely flight : they unani
mously refused to desert or survive their beloved
master; and their courage was fortified by a fervent
prayer, and the assurance of Paradise. On the
morning of the fatal day, he mounted on horseback,
with his sword in one hand, and the Koran in the

298 hossein's death.
other. His generous band of martyrs consisted
only of thirty-two horse and forty foot ; but their
flanks and rear were secured by the tent-ropes, and
by a deep trench, which they had filled with lighted
faggots, according to the practice of the Arabs.
The enemy advanced with reluctance ; and one of
their chiefs deserted, with thirty followers, to claim
the partnership of inevitable death. In every close
onset or single combat, the despair of the Fati-
mites was invincible ; but the surrounding multi
tudes galled them from a distance with a cloud of
arrows, and the horses and men were successively
slain: a truce was allowed on both sides for the
hour of prayer, and the battle at length expired by
the death of the last of the companions of Hossein.
Alone, weary, and wounded, he seated himself at
the door of his tent. As he tasted a drop of water,
he was pierced in the mouth by a dart ; and his son
and nephew, two beautiful youths, were killed in his
arms. He lifted his hands to Heaven — they were
full of blood — and he uttered a funeral prayer for
the living and the dead. In a transport of despair
his sister issued from the tent, and adjured the gene
ral of the Cufians, that he would not suffer Hossein
to be murdered before his eyes. A tear trickled
down his venerable beard; and the boldest of his
soldiers fell back on every side, as the dying hero
threw himself among them. The remorseless Sha-
mer, a name detested by the faithful, reproached
their cowardice, and the grandson of Mohamed was
slain with three-and-thirty strokes of lances and
swords. After they had trampled on his body, they

THE PERSIAN STORY. 299
carried his head to the castle of Cufa ; and the in
human Obeidoollah struck him on the mouth with a
cane. " Alas !" exclaimed an aged Mussulman, " on
these lips have I seen the lips of the apostle of
God !" Such is the eloquent relation of the death
of Hossein, by the learned author of " The Decline
and Fall of the Roman Empire."
The tomb of the Imaum, which is at Meshed-i-
Hossein, a distance of about thirty miles from Cufa,
has ever since been a place of pilgrimage to his
Persian votaries. Those of his family taken at his
death were brought in chains before Yezid, who
generously dismissed them to join their relatives
at Medina, though contrary to the wishes of his
adherents, who advised the total extirpation of the
family. There is but a step from the sublime to the ridi
culous; and this mournful and affecting history has
been so exaggerated by the Persians, that it loses,
in the eyes of an European, all its pathos, and be
comes absurd. The following is the account of the
whole, as related to us by our host, Suleiman Khan,
in the plenitude of his faith, and with th*e greatest
seriousness, which, when stripped of the miraculous,
closely adheres to the true story.
Hossein, when requested by the people of Cufa to
become their Caliph, sent a certain man, " Moslem,"
to announce his intention of joining them ; but the
insurrection of the Cufians having been quelled by
the Governor, the messenger is seized and ripped
open. The Imaum, ignorant of this, starts for Cufa,
with an army of thirty thousand men ; and after a

300 THE PERSIAN STORY.
painful journey across the desert, meets Hoor, one
of Yezid's generals, with a body of eighteen thou
sand men, to oppose his further passage. When
this leader comes in sight of Hossein's army, he sud
denly determines to become his partisan, and he
and his soldiers being very thirsty on account of the
heat, request water to drink. Hossein gives the
General and his army a copious draught from the
water-bags, which confirms him in his previous re
solution. This circumstance was stated as little
less than a miracle, performed on behalf of the
Imaum, though it would not seem very extraordi
nary, that the General preferred rather to join his
opponent than to risk a battle with a force of
eighteen thousand men, against an enemy with
thirty thousand. Hoor now announces to his men
his intention of joining Hossein, exhorting them to
do likewise, but giving them leave to depart, if they
wish it — which they do as fast as they can, to in
form Yezid of the state of affairs. Meanwhile, Hos
sein continues his march, till, on approaching Ker-
bela, the horses stand still ; all kinds of expedients
are tried, "but nothing will prevail on the beasts to
go forward. Hossein then calls together his fol
lowers, and tells them that he feels it his fate to
die there ; and gives them the option of remaining
with him, or retiring; but strongly recommends
the latter. All, except seventy-two devotees, prefer
living a little longer, please God ! and, taking his
advice, hasten back to Medina. The Imaum then
harangues the remainder ; and after a beautiful and
interesting discourse on their approaching fate, as

THE PERSIAN STORY. 301
some consolation, requests each man in his turn to
look between his fore and middle fingers, which he
holds up, where they see the particular spot allotted
to them in Paradise, and feel greatly edified and
encouraged thereby. The little band is now sur
rounded on all sides by many hundred thousands of
the enemy, who advance to the attack. Hossein,
with the wonderful sword of his father Allee, kills
some thirty thousand ; several others with him slay
their fifteen and sixteen thousands ; one of his sons,
a lad of about seventeen, kills three hundred and
fifty infidels ; and the battle began to appear du
bious, wheii the Almighty called to the Imaum
from Heaven, and ordered him to stay his hand,
saying, that if he did not desist, he would soon ex
terminate his opponents; that it was the Divine
wish he should yield his life; and reminded him
of a promise he had made to do so, when it might
be required of him. Hossein acquiesces, and raising
his arms to Heaven, rushes into the midst of his
foes, who despatched him with one thousand nine
hundred and fifty-nine wounds. His son and com
panions were slain the moment he ceased to fight,
and the rest of his family were taken captives by
the conquerors, and conducted before Yezid, who
afterwards sent them back to Medina.
Such is the Persian account we received, and the
national vanity is strongly apparent throughout ; not
admitting for a moment, that their brave hero was
otherwise overcome than by the Divine decree and
his own consent.
During the month of Moharrem, this tragedy is

302 DRAMATIC REPRESENTATIONS.
represented in the form of a drama, consisting of
several parts or acts ; one of which is performed
each day by hired actors, whose pay is included in
the expenses of the Takieh. The tenth and last
day, called the Rooz-i-catle (day of massacre), con
cludes the whole, and comprises the immediate cir
cumstances of Hossein's death.
The people had no scruples in our witnessing
their representations, but, on the contrary, seemed
rather pleased ; and, at the request of the Khan, we
saw the performances on the Rooz-i-catle, and another
act which they here added to the tragedy, represent
ing the return of the survivors of the Imaum's
family when released by Yezid, which really exhi
bited some beautiful and touching parts; though,
in general, to us Europeans, who could not enter
into the excited and frenzied feelings of the multi
tude around, it was rather a ludicrous exhibition.
About twelve o'clock, we accompanied the Khan
through the bazars to one of the takiehs, where
kalleoons and sherbets were brought to us; while
due notice of the Khan's approach was given at the
Takieh, where the performance was to be held. In
about a quarter of an hour, we moved on to another
similar place, thus getting to our final destination
by easy stages of six or seven hundred yards : here
we drank coffee, and were entertained by the sight
of some two or three hundred fanatics, rushing back
wards and forwards, leaping about and yelling in a
most terrific manner, brandishing clubs over their
heads and firing pistols in the air ; while two men
were dodging about, beating immense cymbals till

DRAMATIC REPRESENTATIONS. 303
they were black in the face, and only ceased when
they fell down exhausted, on which everybody shout
ed Barikellah ! Whether this was merely a burst
of religious enthusiasm or intended to represent a
battle, I could not, at the time, precisely understand,
but I was told that it was the former. This part of
the performance was very unpleasant, as the weather
was warm and the odour exceedingly powerful. We
then witnessed some clever feats of balancing with
immensely heavy poles ; and, after having listened
patiently for half an hour to some poetry, of which
we could not understand a syllable, it was notified
that everything was prepared for the principal re
presentation, and we forthwith adjourned to the
upper gallery of a takieh, and waited for the com
mencement of the spectacle. It was altogether a
curious sight ; thousands of people were seated on
the ground in front of the building, the men on
one side and the women wrapped in their blue
veils on the other. In the space between them was
a wooden platform, which was occasionally used as
a stage by the actors ; altogether strongly remind
ing one of the description of the primitive plays
performed in England some centuries back, called
" Mysteries." The act of to-day, which I am about
to describe, ought to have been the conclusion of
the drama, as it represented the return of the Im
aum's family to Medina after his death. However,
this little anachronism was disregarded, as they
preferred keeping the murdering till scene the last.
The actors were several boys and men, some
dressed as women. The dramatis personce were :

304 DRAMATIC REPRESENTATIONS.
Zeineb, a sister of Hossein ) returned
Zechina, a daughter „ /¦ from
Zein-ul-Abudeen, a son „ ) Damascus.
Bechir, their guide.
„ . _ „„ fwho remained at
I1 atima, a daughter of Hossein I at d* j
Umleilah, mother of the Haz- 1
. . . / are awaiting
ret Abbas u . ,
\ Hossein s return.
Abdoollah Jaffer, a brother-in-law of the Imaum.
A young son and daughter of the Hazret Abbas,
under the care of Abdoollah Jaffer.
Mules, muleteers, servants, &c.
A carpet and a Persian bed, consisting of a mat
tress, pillow, and coverlet, having been laid on the
platform, which was now intended to represent a
chamber of the Imaum's house at Medina, Fati-
ma, supposed to be unwell, gets into the bed, and
Umleilah comes to visit her. After a quarter of an
hour of recitative between them regarding Hossein's
journey and his wished-for return, they remain
quiet, and the scene is supposed to shift from the
room to the streets of the town, where Bechir, in a
suit of chain armour, makes his entry on horseback,
leading after him the mourning family, Zein-ul-
Abudeen, Zechina, and Zeineb, clothed in black
and riding on mules. Their appearance caused a
burst of frenzied grief from the spectators. Bechir
assists them to dismount, and, wailing and beating
their breasts, they endeavour to express their thanks
to him for his kindness during their journey hither,
deploring their destitute and miserable condition.
They regret that they have no suitable present to

DRAMATIC REPRESENTATIONS. 305
offer him (groans and sighs from the multitude) ; but,
at the same time, beg him to accept some trifling
tokens of their gratitude, and one gives him a
shawl, another a coat, and Zein-ul-Abudeen, taking
off his turban, insists on his receiving it. — (Great
sensation.) Bechir is exceedingly affected at this,
and turns away in a paroxysm of grief, reluctant to
deprive the unfortunate family of the little they
have left, and yet fearing to wound their feelings
by refusing to accept their gifts. Abdoollah Jaffer,
a venerable old man with a snowy beard, who till
now had been quietly seated on one side with a
little daughter and son of the Hazret Abbas, comes
forward with tottering steps, leaning on a staff, and
inquires what tidings they bring, and what has be
come of Hossein. They all embrace him, and re
late the affecting history of the Imaum's death. —
(Immense sobbing and groaning.) The poor old man
appears completely overcome ; and in a voice trem
bling and broken by emotion, pronounces a funeral
oration on the virtues and excellence of the martyr,
and laments his wretched fate. — (Here the excitement
was at the highest.) The scene then turns again to
Fatima and Umleilah. The latter seems to have
had notice of Hossein's death ; but the former grows
impatient for his return. She says, that the time of
his arrival must be near ; and that, though ill, she
will remain in bed no longer, but prepare to greet
her beloved father. She rises, folds up the bed,
lights candles, sweeps the apartment, and strews the
floor with bouquets of flowers. Umleilah, mean
while, is much distressed how to break the melan-
x

306 EFFECT ON THE MULTITUDE.
choly news to the fond and unsuspecting daughter,
At length, however, she is relieved by the entrance
of Bechir, who with many tears informs Fatima of
her father's fate, at hearing which she gives one
piercing shriek and falls senseless on the floor. —
(Groans and sobs, particularly from the women)
When she is again restored to consciousness, in a
low wailing tone she utters a few more sentences
expressive of her misery and grief, and the perform
ance is concluded.
The acting, in many parts, was very tolerable;
the broken and distressed voice of Abdoollah
Jaffer, and the grieved and distracted looks and
gestures of Umleilah as she listened to the plans
of the affectionate Fatima for greeting her father
on his arrival, and pictured to herself the misery
and disappointment the unexpected intelligence of
his death would produce, were really well done :
Fatima's part was also sustained with much spirit.
All the performers held rolls of paper in their
hands, from which they read their respective parts,
and the absence of all scenery took away much
of the interest of the representation. It was all
sung in recitative.
The effect on the surrounding multitude was
astonishing; from the oldest to the youngest, all
sobbed and cried, in the most piteous manner. A
Mollah sitting near me shed most unfeigned tears,
and carefully collecting them on a piece of cot
ton, squeezed them into a small bottle. The de
vout believe that, when enduring the torments of
the lower world, one of these tears dropped on

A LARGE TREE. 307
their tongue will alleviate their sufferings for a
thousand years. This custom calls to mind a pas
sage in Psalm lvi. 8, " Put thou my tears into thy
bottle." Our host, however, might grill in Je-
hanum a long time without this relief; for, though
his sobs and groans were of the loudest, beating
his breast, and crying "Wahi! wahi! wahi!" all
his attemps to squeeze out a tear proved ineffec
tual. Thus have these extraordinary scenes of lamenta
tion for Hossein's death continued to exist after a
lapse of nearly twelve centuries, without the least
abatement in the fervour and enthusiasm of his
votaries. This practice, however, is disapproved of
by some of the great and wiser Mollahs, who say
rightly, that instead of honouring their Imaum,
they murder him in effigy afresh every year ; and
that they make him a greater idol than the pro
phet Mohamed himself.
The sun was just setting as the performance con
cluded, and the Khan having made his namaz on
the spot, we returned home together. At the
corner of one of the streets, he pointed out to us
the hollow trunk of an immense plane-tree, which
had been roofed with tiles and turned into a shop,
and is, I think, the greatest curiosity to be seen
at Astrabad. There are many very large trees
of this kind in different parts of the town, and
there is a belief throughout these provinces, that
when they have attained the age of a thousand
years, they are subject to spontaneous combustion.
In the evening, about nine o'clock, the Khan
x 2

308 CEREMONIES USUAL AT THE MOHARREM.
came to our apartment and invited us to see the'
people of the different mahals of the town ex
hibit themselves according to the custom of the
season ; so, wrapping ourselves in our cloaks, for
the night was chilly and damp, we accompanied
him to a small, open balla-khoneh (upper cham
ber), above the principal hall of audience, which
overlooked the court-yard. First came a party of
lads, each bearing a branch, to which pieces of
lighted cotton, dipped in naphtha, were affixed ;
then came a party of men, half-naked, and armed
with huge clubs and short spears ; and after them
a body of matchlock-men, who, having marched
round the yard in solemn procession, all mingled
together, and howling, screaming, rushing back
wards and forwards, scattering the fire about, dis
charging their guns, and brandishing their sticks,
created a scene of the most diabolical confusion
and uproar. This having in some measure sub
sided, a large body of men, attended by numerous
torch-bearers, marched forwards to a low, wailing
chant, in which the words "Hossein," "Hassan,"
and " Peigumber" (prophet), were constantly re
peated ; all were furnished with two pieces of
wood, which they clapped together at the same
instant, keeping time with the singing, twice be
low and the third time high over their heads,
leaping into the air; and the low, melancholy
dirge, the startling, simultaneous clash, and the
sudden springing up of the multitude, while the
strong red glare of the torches fell on their wild
figures and excited countenances, produced a

CEREMONIES USUAL AT THE MOHARREM. 309
scene well worthy of Pandemonium. Then came
a company of men, naked to the waist, some bleed
ing from self-inflicted gashes on the forehead ;
who, ranging themselves in a circle, began beat
ing their breasts in the most violent manner, oc
casionally lashing their shoulders with a scourge of
chains, which they handed to each other in turns,
shouting at each blow, " Hassan ! Hossein ! Has
san! Hossein!" Heaven knows how long this
might have lasted, for the blows became quicker,
and the shouting louder, as the enthusiasm and
excitement increased, had not the Khan exclaim
ed " Barikellah ! Barikellah ! Busest!" (Well done,
well done, it is enough.) He then with his usual
easy manner, addressed a most flowery and flatter
ing speech to the kalenter (head magistrate) and
the multitude, with which they seemed highly de
lighted, shouting at every pause, "Belli! Belli!"
"Inshallah! Inshallah!" " Alhumdulillah !" &c.
The people then departed, and we returned to our
quarters, the Khan bidding us good night, with
the assurance that we had more reason to rejoice
for the good we had done our souls by coming to see
this exhibition of piety (for so it was considered),
than if we had been presented with a mountain of
gold. A few evenings afterwards we were told that
he, his sons, and chief attendants had mingled with
the mob, and, bareheaded and unshod, were beating
their breasts and using the chains with as much
vigour as any one ; thus, by these acts of fanaticism,
believing that they obtained absolution for the nu
merous sins committed during the past year.

310 CONCLUSION OF THE MOHARREM.
Most of the remainder of our stay at Astrabad
was passed within doors. We had seen all that
was worth seeing, and there was little inducement
to extend our walks beyond the walls of the gar
den in which we lived. We also began to feel
very unwell with severe pains in the chest, and
had coughs, arising chiefly from the extreme damp
ness of the floor of our room, on which our mat
tresses were spread every night. The weather was
rather changeable, being moist and warm in the
day time, and chilly at night, and the thermo
meter, before breakfast, at about half-past eight,
generally stood at 47° Fahrenheit. We had had
no intention of remaining so long at Astrabad, but
we could not find any muleteers who would start
until after the Moharrem. On the twenty-eighth,
however, a man was engaged to go on the first
of February, to which day we looked forward with
much pleasure.
Jan. 31st was the conclusion of the Moharrem,
and we went to see the last act of the drama, the
Rooz-i-catle. This has been described by Morier,
as performed at Tehraun, and need not be repeated
by me, as it was the same here in all its prominent
features. The scene of the Imaum's leave-taking
with the disconsolate members of his family, was
really affecting and well-acted ; but, as it appeared
to produce an extra quantity of tears from the spec
tators, it was so often repeated for the good of their
souls, that it became tedious. Only a sense, how
ever, of the imminent danger of such a proceeding
prevented me from indulging in a roar of laughter,

CONCLUSION OF THE MOHARREM. 311
when an infant son of the Imaum was presented to
him, to receive a last adieu, — the infant son being
a wooden representation of a little man, with a
great head, garnished with a most luxuriant pair
of zulphs,* but minus the nose, which had been
knocked off by previous ill usage. The whole
length of the figure was about two feet and a half,
and terminated in an excessively short pair of legs,
very wide apart, both arms sticking out stiff at right
angles from the body. Hossein has already mounted
his horse, and, taking this ludicrous thing, is in the
act of kissing it, when one of his enemies rides
up, and stabs it in his arms. This produced such a
burst of grief, that it was immediately acted over
again. The enemies of the Imaum were all clothed
in chain-armour, one suit of which was very valuable.
It now belonged to Suleiman Khan ; but had for
merly been worn by a brother of Aga Mohamed
Khan, Jaffer Kooly Khan, who was so treacherously
murdered by that monarch. The whole perform
ance concluded with the supposed burning of Ker-
bela, which was represented by setting fire to a few
old tents, when the multitude quietly departed to
their respective homes.
* Long locks which the Persians wear behind the ears.

312

CHAPTER XVII.
Take leave of Suleiman Khan. — Quit Astrabad. — Miaunderreh. —
Continue our Journey. — Cross the Mountains. — The Megassee
Caves. — Departure. — Sorver and Shahkoo. — Shemshir-bour
Chehardeh. — Refuge Towers. — A Miraculous Spring. — Chesh-
meh Allee. — Fortified Villages. — Ayanoo. — Deep-rooted Super
stition. — Leave Ayanoo. — Toodervah. — Shebkess. — Auhoowan.
Caravanserai. — Legend. — Sacrilege punished. — Old Ruin.
Feb. 1. All our effects having been packed up
early in the morning, and the room once more re
duced to its original nakedness, we sat down on the
floor to take the last breakfast with our kind host.
Whether his feelings were in unison with his pro
testations and appearance, I will not take upon me
to say ; but he affected to be, or really was, in low
spirits, and expressed his regret at our departure.
After the meal, he left the apartment, and sent us a
handsome present of Toorcoman horses, and a gene
ral letter of recommendation to the ketkhodas of
the villages within his jurisdiction through which we
might pass, ordering provisions to be furnished, and
every attention to be paid to us. Out of compli
ment to our host, we directed the animals to be
saddled; and just before mounting, he presented
himself, to make his last adieus: he embraced us,
kissing each cheek in the Oriental manner, and hav-

MIAUNDERREH. 313
ing wished us all prosperity, a life of a thousand
years, and no diminution of shadow, retired to his
anderoon, and we left Astrabad.
As far as Kafshigeeree we retraced the road by
which we had arrived ; then turning towards the
mountains, and travelling through the forest about
four miles further, we came to the village of Miaun-
derreh, distant sixteen miles from the city. It is
prettily situated in a valley on the banks of a small
stream, and belongs to the Sheik-ul-islam, at As
trabad. The houses are badly built, and the inha
bitants subsist chiefly by cultivating rice. The tax
on this grain is levied by the measurement of the
ground. There is a measure of twelve lengths from
the elbow to the middle-finger ; and for a square of
twenty of them, six khalwars, of one hundred
mauns tabreez, are taken. A maun tabreez is about
six pounds and a half English. The people say here,
that to sow this space of ground twenty-six mauns
tabreez are required, and that this yields twenty
khalwars — seventy-seven fold. The ground is ex
ceedingly good ; and stable manure is occasionally
employed. After the harvest is got in, rice sells for
twelve kurrauns ; but at this time it rises to about
twenty kurrauns per khalwar. Sheltouk — that is,
the rice in the husk — is only worth half the price.
Cotton is also produced here. On all other produce
except rice ten per cent, is levied.
The village of Miaunderreh contains about forty
houses, and is divided into two parts, one nearer
the foot of the hills than the other ; to the latter
we proceeded, and obtained very tolerable lodgings.

314 CONTINUE OUR JOURNEY.
Feb. 2. The morning was bright and frosty;
and, having already sent our baggage on an hour
before us, we followed at nine o'clock. The road for
about a mile from the village lay over wide, grassy
lawns, on the slopes of the lower hills, from whence
we had a good view of the desert, and the south
east corner of the Caspian, and anticipated a very
magnificent prospect from the summit of the moun
tains. We soon entered the forest, which afforded
some very fine specimens of its own peculiar scenery.
We kept our way along the edge of a precipice
nearly a hundred feet high, overhanging a ravine, at
the bottom of which ran the ripling stream which
passes Miaunderreh : on our left rose the steep side
of a hill, thickly clothed with the wintry forest; and
here and there fantastic masses of grey rock started
forth from a verdant covering of creeping-plants,
mosses, and primroses. An hour's travelling brought
us down to the bed of the river, in which we con
tinued our march for about a mile and a half, and
then commenced an ascent, most painful and diffi
cult to the horses. Hitherto the sharp frost of the
morning had hardened the ground ; but the sun was
now high in the heavens, and having softened the
frozen mud, rendered it very slippery ; this, and the
steepness of the path, made it all but impracticable.
In many places we were compelled to dismount and
lead our horses, which were dreadfully exhausted by
the continual struggle. This lasted till we reached
a level space, about four miles from the summit of
the mountains, at a sufficient height above the sea
for the snow to lie on the ground. Here we halted

THE MEGASSEE CAVES. 315
for some minutes, to allow the tired animals to take
a little breath. We had left our baggage far be
hind, making slow and laborious progress, as the
cattle rolled over almost every instant, and the
muleteers were incessantly engaged in replacing the
fallen loads. On looking above us, high masses of
rock, covered with snow, rose like an impassable
barrier ; and it was to me a matter of curious con
jecture as to how and where we should pass it. Our
guide, however, assured us, that as we proceeded
the road would open upon us, and that we should
soon reach the ridge. The intermediate path was
difficult ; aiid we were forced to walk the greater
part of the way. Near the top there was half a
foot of snow on the ground ; and the icicles hung on
the branches of the trees, among which I observed
several firs. At last we attained the summit ; and
commenced a gradual descent by a broad, dry, and
well-beaten road. The grand view of the Caspian
and the lowlands, which we had expected to have
enjoyed, was hidden by masses of white clouds, roll
ing several hundred feet below us.
The country as we proceeded presented a very
different aspect to- that which we had lately been
traversing, for the hills were now half bare, merely
dotted here and there with a few stunted firs. We
soon got below the range of the snow, and conti
nued the descent along a deep and narrow valley,
till half-past three in the afternoon, when we ar
rived at some caves in the side of the mountain,
where we intended to halt for the night. The hill
in which these caves are excavated is of a clayey

316 THE MEGASSEE CAVES.
nature, which has facilitated the work. There are
several of them, of sufficient extent to accommo
date some twenty or thirty horses. The place is
called Megassee ; a clear rivulet flows near at
hand, and it is a convenient halting-place for mule
teers between Miaunderreh and Chehardeh, being
nearly equidistant from both. Several were at pre
sent resting here on their way to Astrabad from
Damghaun, whence they were bringing salt : it is
procured from the mines there, for about twopence-
halfpenny a load, and sells at Astrabad for two
shillings. It is only when they wish to return to
Astrabad, and have nothing else to bring, that they
load with this article.
After dark, our men, at the suggestion of one of
the chavudars (muleteers), endeavoured to set fire
to the wood on the side of the mountain, opposite
the caves, for the sake of the sight ; but they only
partially succeeded, the trees being too green
and damp to burn freely, and the night too calm
to assist the conflagration. A tolerable blaze was,
however, created, and the wild armed figures of
our attendants, hacking at the branches with their
drawn swords, and flitting to and fro with flaming
brands, made a striking and romantic picture, as
they were thrown out in strong relief by the light
of the fire.
It was nine o'clock at night before the baggage
arrived ; the animals were worn out with fatigue,
and the muleteers complained bitterly of the labour
they and their beasts had undergone. More than

DEPARTURE.

317

twelve hours had been spent on the road, accom
plishing a distance of sixteen miles.

The thermometer this evening stood at 22° Fah
renheit, at half-past nine o'clock.
We found the caves rather cool during the night,
but nevertheless we slept pretty comfortably; and
in the morning, having got our baggage off long
before the sun peeped over the tops of the hills,
we ourselves followed at ten o'clock. The ther
mometer was 32° of Fahrenheit in the shade, when
we left the caves. The hard, frosty ground was
more pleasant to ride over than the swampy roads
of Mauzunderoon, and the freshness and dryness
of the air was particularly delightful after the close
and damp atmosphere of the low country.

318 SHEMSHIR-BOUR.
Having travelled about a mile, we turned east,
over a level plain, where in summer the Governor
of Astrabad encamps; a small stream of delicious
water runs through it : no doubt it must be an
agreeable and cool residence in the hot season.
The surrounding scenery, however, is dreary in
the extreme; the rocky, barren mountains rise in
rugged confusion, and exhibit no sign of animal
or vegetable life, save occasionally a flock of wild
sheep, and here and there a solitary stunted pine-
tree. Yesterday we had entered the district of
Sorver : it is mountainous, and possesses only one
village, named Rawkoa. The adjacent district of
Shahkoo is of similar aspect, and can only boast
of three or four hamlets.
About half a mile further we turned at a right
angle into another plain, which gradually narrowed
into a valley, and terminated in a steep, rocky pass.
The road lay over this, and about three quarters of
a mile on the other side we entered a curious
defile, about three yards broad, the rocks rising on
each side fifty or sixty feet perpendicularly, like
immense walls. The chasm, called the Shemshir-
bour (sword-cut), is said to have been effected by
Allee with a blow of his wonderful sword. A
small stream flows through it, which was now
frozen into an undulating surface of ice, and none
of the horses being roughshod, we had the greatest
difficulty in getting through the pass. The whole
length of the defile is not more than five or six
hundred yards; but we were full twenty minutes
in passing it. On emerging from it, we ascended

CHEHARDEH. 319
a gentle elevation, and entered a country perfectly
barren, without so much as a bush, and the scenery
formed a dreary contrast to the beautifully- wooded
districts we had left behind. Continuing some
miles further over low hills, we came to Chehar
deh (four villages), which, as the name implies,
consists of four separate villages, clustered together,
and we once more beheld the long, formal walls,
and flat-roofed dwellings of Upper Persia. How
ever, though there was too much dust, there was
no mud, which had hithertoo been our great griev
ance ; and the place was not entirely destitute of
foliage, as nearly every house possessed a garden
planted with pears, apples, plums, cherries, peaches,
and other common fruits. The names of the four
villages composing Chehardeh, are Kaleh-ish, Zer-
damox, Varasam, and Haraub-i-deh. The last is in
ruins and uninhabited, having remained in this state
since it was destroyed between sixty and seventy
years ago by Zachi Khan, (a brother of Kurreem
Khan Vekeel,) who, because he was opposed by the
inhabitants, massacred them with his usual cruelty
and erected a pillar of sculls on the spot. The other
villages were devastated at the same time, but have
since been gradually rebuilt, and at present there
are about five hundred houses in all. Chehardeh is
situated at the foot of some high rocky hills, and is
between four or five fursucks distant from the caves
of Megassee. The revenue is fifty tomauns in
money, and forty khalwars of produce, and it is
besides bound to furnish two hundred soldiers to
the government.

320 A MIRACULOUS SPRING.
Barley and wheat form the chief cultivation, which
crops have, for the three last years, failed on ac
count of drought, occasioned by a scarcity of snow
in the winter, and the inhabitants have been obliged
to bring grain from Astrabad. Some excellent
bread, resembling biscuit, is made here.
We left Chehardeh at ten o'clock, and, passing
a mud imaumzadeh of Mehmet (a son of the Imaum
Jaffer-i-Saduk, uncle of the Imaum Hossein) which
stands on the confines of the village, proceeded in
a south-westerly direction across a well-cultivated
plain. It was watered by several rivulets and every
where dotted with the remains of small round-
towers, in which those who happened to be em
ployed in the fields took refuge in case of a sudden
attack from the Khorassan Toorcomans, an event
which was formerly of very frequent occurrence.
About three miles from the village we passed
the ruins of a large, circular mud-fort, about fifty
feet high, strengthened at intervals by round-towers ;
it was encircled by a ditch and low walls enclosing
the remains of what were probablv houses, stables,
and gardens. The inhabitants of the country affirm
ed that it had existed from time immemorial, hav
ing been formerly a temple of the Guebres, but after
wards turned into a fortress as a protection from
the Toorkomans. Their incursions, however, having
entirely ceased for many years, the place has been
allowed to fall to decay, and at present is an unin
habited ruin. We continued three or four miles
further, in the same direction, and then left the
road, turning west over some low, barren hills,

A MIRACULOUS SPRING. 321
crusted with soda, for the purpose of witnessing a
phenomenon, which had been mentioned to us
wherever we had been. There is here a spring,
into which if anything unclean be thrown, a few
hours afterwards, or at farthest during the same
day, the sky is said to become overcast, and a vio
lent tempest of hail, rain, and wind to arise, which
does not cease till the water has been cleared from
the impurity. The prodigy had been personally wit
nessed by most of those who spoke of it. Sulei
man Khan, at Astrabad, was perfectly convinced of
its truth ; and his head servant stated that one day
when he happened to be there, his horse accident
ally polluted the fountain, and a storm arose, such
as he had never before experienced, and it was with
the greatest difficulty he was able to reach a neigh
bouring village. Notwithstanding all we had heard
so positively asserted, we felt sceptical, and deter
mined to test the miracle ourselves.
The spring was situated about seven miles from
Chebardeh, in a wild and desolate-looking spot,
well chosen for the residence of the Spirit of the
Storm; the volcanic rocks in the immediate vici
nity were broken up into a thousand fantastic forms,
and high on every side rose dreary, black-looking
mountains utterly destitute of the least vegetation.
The spring is called Ghendaub (foul water), and
issues from a deep cut in the side of a small hillock ;
the water is of a dirty-yellowish hue, and intensely
salt and bitter. To make the trial more fairly, we
insisted on our guide casting into the water some
thing unclean ; for a long time he could not be
Y

322 KELLATER.
prevailed on, and earnestly entreated that no one
would make so profane an attempt, protesting that
we should bitterly repent our curiosity, and that,
moreover, a storm just then would do great damage
to the country. We, however, were inexorable ; and
having at last reluctantly thrown in some dung, he
turned sorrowfully away, mounted his horse, and
said not another word, evidently alarmed and asto
nished at our headstrong determination to satisfy
our curiosity in spite of what he believed to be the
certain and awful consequences. The day was
beautiful, not a cloud was to be seen, and the wea
ther could not have been more favourable for testing
the miracle, which in this instance did not occur.
Close to the spot is a small hut, then unoccupied,
but where a guard generally resides to prevent
people from defiling the water, or to clear it from
any accidental pollution. It is difficult to account
for such a strong and general belief, but it is not
improbable that the occurrence of sudden storms
among these mountains has given rise to the super
stition. We continued our march south, and reached
Kellater, a village about three-quarters of a mile
from the spring ; then turning south-west, we enter
ed a plain surrounded by rocky mountains, and hav
ing the appearance of an immense basin. Towards
the south-east, signs of cultivation were visible ; but
by far the greater part was a waste, barely affording
subsistence to a few flocks of sheep, which might
be here and there discovered grazing, like small
black specks on the dreary expanse. After cross-

CHESHMEH ALLEE. 323
ing the plain, we went over some low hills, and
arrived at Cheshmeh Allee (fountain of Allee,)
where we halted to see the springs. The water
gushes out in abundance from several sources close
to each other, falling into an artificial tank thirty-
two yards long, and twenty-three broad, and six or
seven feet deep in the middle. At the eastern
extremity of this tank is a pleasure-house, having
on each side two arches, through which the water
flows into a lower and larger reservoir, about a
hundred and seven yards long, and of the same
breadth and depth as the smaller tank. At the
eastern end of the larger reservoir is another
summer-house. On either side of the water is a
space closely planted with tall poplars ; and a mud-
wall, flanked by round-towers, surrounds the whole.
The wall is in ruins, and serves at present only to
prevent the inroads of cattle. The whole was
built and arranged by Fathy Ali Shah, who was
fond of sporting in this neighbourhood. At the
south-west corner are a few huts, containing two
families, who are in charge of the place to see
that the trees are not cut down for fire-wood. These
people are nominally paid by government ten to
mauns a-year, but they complained that they never
saw the money, and they live entirely by the cul
tivation of a little wheat, a garden, and the few
presents they may chance to receive from visitors.
The water is pellucid in the extreme, and the peb
bles and weeds at the bottom are clearly distin
guished. It makes its exit from the largest re
servoir at the south-east angle, and, receiving seve-
Y 2

324 FORTIFIED VILLAGES.
ral additions from neighbouring rivulets, soon be
comes a moderate-sized stream, which flows past
Damghaun. A few hundred yards below, on the
right bank of the brook, are some gardens, and a
squre mud-fort, originally built as a protection to
the fountain and summer-houses, but now merely
serving as the residence of two or three families
who cultivate gardens.
We left Cheshmeh Allee at three o'clock in the
afternoon, and proceeding alternately over low hills
and narrow plains, we passed Astanek, around which
was a considerable extent of cultivated land. A
few miles further we reached the village of Baba
Hafiz, enclosed within four walls, with towers at
the angles, and looking like a square fort. All
the villages in Khorassan are either fortified with
walls and towers, or have a kind of citadel in the
centre, plainly indicating the former unsettled state
of the country, and on almost every eminence are
to be seen the ruins of fortresses and towers.
Close to Baba Hafiz are the remains of the castle
of Mehr-Nigaud, crowning the heights of an ap
parently inaccessible precipice. These are now,
however, only reminiscences of by-gone times, as
this unsettled state of things no longer exists, and
the inhabitants live in comparative security.
Continuing onwards, we crossed the Cheshmeh
Allee stream, and turning south, arrived at the
village of Ayanoo, after a circuitous ride of five
fursucks. Our baggage had long since arrived,
having come the direct road, not more than three
fursucks from Chehardeh.

AYANOO.— SUPERSTITION. 325
Ayanoo is a small place about three fursucks
from Damghaun, consisting of some thirty houses,
and situated in a ravine. There are two large iso
lated towers standing near its entrance, but they
have been allowed to fall to decay; and one of
the white-beards of the place said, that there
had been no chappows made here within his me
mory, which must have extended at least as far
back as sixty years. The village is held in tweel
by Mehmet Khan, the Shah's master of horse, who
derives from it fifteen tomauns, which is the total
revenue. It furnishes, besides, fourteen soldiers to
the Damghaun regiment. The inhabitants culti
vate a little wheat, and keep a few sheep and cat
tle, on which they subsist, seeming to have little or
no intercourse with the rest of mankind.
During the night the weather remained lovely,
and also the whole of the next day, in spite of the
miraculous spring ; but this apparent contradiction
of the prevailing belief was readily explained by
our Persian servants, who affirmed that the guide
who had thrown in the dirt, and who quitted us
at the village of Kellater, had immediately re
turned to the spring and taken it out again, — and
their faith was perfectly unshaken, so difficult is
it to remove the superstitions of ignorant people.
Feb. 5. We left Ayanoo early in the morning,
and after travelling about two fursucks through
solitary valleys among the mountains, came to a
spring, from whence Damghaun and several sur
rounding villages were visible to the east, on the
edge of a vast salt-plain, the commencement of

326 TOODERVAH. — SHEBKESS.
the desert of Khorassan. The water was very
good, and having refreshed ourselves and horses,
we continued our route in a general westerly di
rection, through the same desolate scenery of plains
and mountains, without seeing a single village or
human being, far or near, to relieve the dreary
monotony. The country was perfectly clear of
snow, and the burning sun, the brown soil, and
scorched vegetation, gave one the idea of the close
of autumn, rather than the middle of winter.
There are plenty of wild sheep all along this road ;
in one place we gave chase to three of them, but
they escaped to the rocks, and we were detained
half an hour before we could recover our dogs.
After a fatiguing ride of seven fursucks, we ar
rived at Toodervah, situated in a long narrow valley.
On seeking for lodgings, we were told that every
house was infested with a venomous insect, called
" shebkess," a kind of tic, which is found all over
this part of Persia ; and we were obliged to spend
the night in an open shed belonging to a takieh used
at the celebration of the Moharrem. Here we might
rest, if not in comfort, at least in safety, by rea
son of the cold, from which it appears these vermin
have a profound aversion. They seldom attack the
villagers, but strangers are nearly sure to be bitten ;
and they say that the bite is so poisonous, as some
times to occasion death. This insect is not the same
as the Miauneh bug. Toodervah is one of three
villages near each other which furnish two hundred
soldiers to the Semnoon regiment in lieu of taxes.
The names of the others are — Tooyeh, one fursuck

AUHOOWAN  CARAVANSERAI. 327
distant to the north-west, and Sahr to the south
east, a few hundred yards down the valley. They
altogether contain about seven hundred houses.
The inhabitants have no cultivation worth mention
ing, as there is no suitable land and not water
enough. They live by gardening, and produce
plums, apples, pears, peaches, cherries, grapes, and
apricots, which, when dried, they export to Mauzun
deroon, and take rice, barley, wheat, and sugar in
return ; they possess, also, between seven and eight
thousand head of sheep, subsisting on the numerous
aromatic herbs found in these seeming deserts. We
slept soundly, and did not suffer from cold. When
we retired to rest at about ten o'clock, the thermo
meter was thirty-seven degrees of Fahrenheit ; and
when we rose shortly after the sun, it stood at the
freezing-point. Feb. 6th. We left Toodervah at nine o'clock, and
a short and monotonous ride of twenty miles
brought us to Auhoowan, at half-past two in the
afternoon. The scenery was the same as that of
the previous day, consisting of desert, plains, and
mountains. We fell in with no villages; but in
one place, some miles to the right of the road in
the desert, we could just discern the walls and ruins
of a few which had formerly been abandoned on
account of the Toorcomans, and have never since
been re-inhabited.
Auhoowan is merely a brick caravanserai, eighty
yards square, measured outside the walls. It is said
to have been one of the works of Shah Abbas ; but
as far as our meerza was able to decypher from a

328 AUHOOWAN.
carved stone above the doorway, it is only a hun
dred and sixty-three years old, the date being the
1097th year of the Hegira, and it is now the 1260th.
It is situated in the midst of a small plain, and has
lately been repaired by Mehmet Shah, who, we
were told, intended to build a village round it. The
interior of the building presents a square, open
court, surrounded by a number of small arched
cells for travellers, behind which is a long range of
vaulted stables. This is the plan of all the cara
vanserais built by Shah Abbas. When we arriv
ed, it was partly occupied by a caravan of camels,
on their way into Khorassan, carrying alum and
sugar. Auhoowan is one of the chuppar stations on the
road to Meshed ; two or three horses are always in
readiness, and the chuppargee keeps a small shop,
where bread, corn, and other necessaries are sold.
The following tradition is told regarding the
name of the place. The Imaum Reza happening
one day to pass this way, met a hunter, who had
just caught an auhoo, or wild sheep. The animal
recognised the Imaum, which the huntsman did not;
and, with tears in its eyes, intreated him to inter
cede, that she might be allowed to return to the
desert for a young one she had left there. The
Imaum spoke to the huntsman, who does not ap
pear to have been at all astonished to hear the
sheep speak ; and who refused at first to let her
go, as he shrewdly supposed that she would not re
turn. However, on the saint offering himself as
surety for her, he consented. In a short time the

SACRILEGE PUNISHED. 329
auhoo returned with her young one ; seeing which,
the hunter fell at the feet of the Imaum, acknow
ledging the saint, and entreating pardon for having
at first refused his request : since then the place
has been called Auhoowan. The caravanserai has
not been built on the exact spot where the scene
described took place, as it is destitute of water : the
real place is about three miles distant to the north,
and is marked by a clump of trees standing in the
surrounding desert, which a belief in the story has
been the means of preserving from being cut down
for fire-wood. It is a matter of firm faith with the
people, that if a man break a branch from one of
the trees, he is certain shortly afterwards to break
his own sacrilegious arm. A story is related of a
man who, a short time ago, cut down two of them,
and having loaded his asses with them, came to the
caravanserai, intending to depart early the next
morning. At a late hour, however, his asses were
still seen unladen in the court-yard ; and, on going
to his cell, he was found dead, having been bitten in
the breast by a serpent. This story may be true as
far as regards the man's death by the reptile, as
there are many most deadly species of serpents in
this part of the country ; and nothing is more likely
than that it might have got in amongst the loads of
wood, or have concealed itself amongst the rubbish
in the cell ; but, of course, it was believed to be a
special punishment for the impiety of destroying the
sacred trees.
To the east of the caravanserai are the ruins of
a somewhat similar building, said to have been

330 OLD RUINS.
erected by Noorshirwan. It is a solid structure,
built of stones and mortar, and the walls are in
many parts nine feet thick. It is eighty yards
square, and flanked by five round-towers on each
side. Some of the cells in the caravanserai are
still habitable. I looked in vain for any inscription
which might indicate the date of its erection ; but
from the various coatings of plaster which are laid
one over another in the gateway, it seems to have
been often repaired, and bears every appearance of
great age.

331

CHAPTER XVIII.
Leave Auhoowan. — Partridges. — Arrive at Semnoon. — Maimoon
Khoneh. — Semnoon. — Legend. — Departure. — Wild Sheep. —
Surkeh. — Lasghird. — Abdoollahbad. — Reach Dehnummuck. —
Continue our Journey. — Khaur. — Destruction of the Grain
Crops by Flies. — Kishlaugh. — Arrival at Eywanekaif. — Vera-
mine. — Palesht. — Demawund. — Tehraun. — Rev. Dr. Wolff.
February 7th. On rising, we found the cara
vanserai deserted by the camel-drivers, who had
departed before dawn, the time always preferred
by caravans for starting in the East, and thus
half the day's journey is generally performed be
fore the intense heat of midday.
At nine o'clock, the thermometer was at 31°
Fahrenheit, the weather was clear, and the sun
shone brightly ; there was no snow to be seen, save
an occasional patch on the heights of the distant
mountains, but a piercing wind was blowing, ren
dered doubly unpleasant by the clouds of dust
which accompanied it.
We left Auhoowan at ten o'clock, journeying
west, over the same description of country as that
we had traversed for the last two days. About
three miles on the road, we came upon a covey
of red-legged partridges, which were singularly tame
and would not rise, even though the dogs, in pur-

332 PARTRIDGES.
suing them, deprived them of large portions of
their plumage. These partridges are found all
over the north of Upper Persia in great abun
dance. There are, also, the common grey par
tridge, a small kind, called "tehoo," of a size be
tween the quail and partridge, and also another
very splendid species, much larger than a domestic
fowl, called the kepk-i-derreh (partridge of the
valley) ; they inhabit inaccessible rocks, and seldom
allow themselves to be approached by the sports
man ; they are, however, often taken when young.
Continuing our march, generally west, but some
times winding round the bases of several excres
cences at the foot of the mountains, we passed
a ruined caravanserai, and came to a fountain,
almost midway between Auhoowan and Semnoon,
which, from the straw and litter scattered about,
seemed to be a frequent halting-place for mule
teers. From this fountain the road lay west,
through a series of ravines formed by low hills,
and finally brought us to the edge of an elevated
slope, overlooking a vast plain, in the centre of
which Semnoon was visible, apparently not more
than six, but in reality fourteen, miles distant.
The city had the appearance of the dark shadow
of a cloud, and the road could be plainly traced
far on the other side, till lost in the distance,
which was bounded by a gentle rise, similar to the
one on which we stood. The plain, till within
a mile or two of the city, was desolate and barren,
and the heat was excessive, even at this season,
showing how unbearable it must be in the summer.

SEMNOON. 333
We arrived at Semnoon at four in the after
noon, and, making our way through its hot and
dusty streets, came to a caravanserai, lately built
by Saif-oollah Meerza, the governor, for the ex
press accommodation of strangers, that they may
be preserved from the bite of the shebkess, which
infests all the old houses. This maimoon-khoneh,
or guest-house, as it is called, is constructed on
the same plan as Shah Abbas's caravanserais, — a
square court, surrounded by cells for travellers, and
a range of stables behind. We selected a room
about five yards square, which appeared a palace
in comparison with some of the wretched holes
we had lately inhabited.
Our horses appeared very tired on arriving, and
underwent the operation of shoeing, which had been
so badly performed at Astrabad, that most of the
animals had either cut their legs with the pro
truding nails, or had lost their shoes altogether.
While this was being done, and our quarters being
prepared, we availed ourselves of the remaining day
light to see something of the town.
Tradition says that it was built by two sons of
Noah, Sin and Lam, whence it was called Sinlam,
and afterwards, by a rather curious corruption, Sem
noon. It is altogether about four miles in circum
ference, and is divided into five mahalehs within,
and four without the walls, which are in a most di
lapidated condition. It is said to contain between
five and six thousand houses, built either of mud or
of sun-dried bricks, and often fitted with baud
gheers. It possesses ten caravanserais, and the ba-

334 SEMNOON.
zars are solidly constructed and pretty extensive,
though narrow and badly stocked.
In the centre of the town there is a very hand
some mosque, which was erected by Fathy Allee
Shah. It consists of a large, square, paved court
yard, with a tank of water furnished with jets. The
court-yard is surrounded by various apartments, and
a medresseh is attached to it. In the centre of the
east and west sides are lofty arches, forming the
entrances to large domed chambers, used for devo
tional purposes, and most elaborately and beautifully
adorned with lacquered tiles. To the north and west
are similar archways, but smaller, through which
the court-yard is entered from the streets. No ob
jection was made to our seeing this place, which is
the prettiest and most perfect thing of the kind I
ever saw in Persia ; and being new, it is in excellent
repair. There is another mosque not far distant from this,
called the Mesjid-i-Jumah, which, among other in
scriptions, bears one, stating its age to be two hun
dred and twenty-one years; but no one could tell
me by whom it was constructed. It is in ruins ;
and seems never to have had pretensions to any
beauty, save in a very elegant minaret about a hun
dred feet high, once embellished with coloured tiles,
but now exhibiting nothing but the bare bricks.
This I ascended, and obtained a capital bird's-eye
view of the city. The line of bazars, with its suc
cession of small domes, lay stretched beneath. I
counted those of the principal bazar, amounting to a
hundred and thirty-eight; and reckoning one shop

SEMNOON. 335
on each side of every dome, the number would be
two hundred and seventy-six. There are, however,
more in other parts of the town. The residence of
the Governor, who was at this time absent on a
hunting excursion, lies to the north-west, and is
surrounded by walls, inclosing a variety of different
buildings. His salary is two thousand tomauns per
annum. The revenue of the district, including the town
and twelve villages, we were told, is about seven
thousand tomauns; that of the town itself being
four thousand six hundred tomauns.
A great deal of tumbeky is produced here, but of
an inferior quality to that of Shirauz ; the price of
the best was twenty-five shahis (Is. 3d.), and of the
lowest description six and three shahis per maun
tabreez (6^ lbs). Kerbauz, a coarse, cotton fabric,
is manufactured here, and is used chiefly for making
tents, and for the curtains suspended before the
open divankhanehs in hot weather.
Figs, grapes, and some other fruits are grown in
the gardens ; the former are small, but well-fla
voured, and the grapes make excellent wine. These
productions are sent to Tehraun and Mauzunde
roon, whence returns are made in wheat, barley,
and rice. I was told that the cultivation of the
two former descriptions of grain around Semnoon
only sufficed for three months' consumption ; and
that for the remaining nine it must be imported.
There is no rice grown, as water is not plentiful
enough. To the north of the town near the hills, they

336 LEGEND.
say there was formerly a city of Guebres, named
Dzedjin, with which the following legend is con
nected. When Semnoon was built, the water with which
it was supplied flowed from the city of the Guebres,
who, one day turned the stream and cut off the sup
plies. Sin and Lam seeing their town about to
perish for want of water, repaired to Dzedjin, and
entreated the chiefs of that place to allow the
stream to return to its old channel : this they at
first refused, but finally made an agreement, that on
the payment of a sum equal to a thousand tomauns,
the water should be allowed to flow into the city
as long as life remained in the head of a fly, which
was to be cut off and thrown into a basin of water.
This was done ; but to the utter astonishment of
the Guebres, the head retained life during thirteen
days ; which so exasperated them against Sin and
Lam, whom they now perceived to be men of God,
that they sent an armed party to Semnoon to make
them prisoners.
Meanwhile the sons of Noah had received intelli
gence of their designs, and fled. The^first village
they halted at was called Shah-derron, where hav
ing rested awhile, they continued their flight, strictly
enjoining the inhabitants not to tell their pur
suers the direction which they had taken. Shortly
afterwards the Guebres arrived, and inquired where
they had gone. The villagers did not mention the
direction in words, but treacherously indicated it
by turning their heads over their right shoulders,
in which position they became immoveably fixed ;

LEGEND. 337
and since then all their descendants have been born
with a twist in the neck, towards the right shoulder.
The fugitives next arrived at a place called
Giorvenon, on quitting which they left the same
injunctions as before. On the arrival of the pur
suers, however, the people pointed out the direction
of their flight by stretching their chins straightfor
ward. An awful peal of thunder marked the di
vine displeasure, and the inhabitants of Giorvenon
found themselves unable to bring their heads back
to their proper position ; and the curse likewise
descended to their posterity, who have since been
remarkable for long and projecting chins. After a
long chase the Guebres overtook the prophets at
the foot of a steep hill, up which they galloped
into a small plain, where, to the astonishment and
disappointment of their pursuers, the earth opened
and closed over them. It was now evening, and
the Guebres, placing a small heap of stones over
the spot where the sons of Noah had disappeared,
retired for the night. Early the next morning, the
Guebres repaired thither with the intention of
digging out the prophets ; but to their confusion
they found the whole plain covered with similar
heaps of stones, so that all their endeavours to
find the original pile were completely baffled, and
they returned to Dzedjin disappointed. There is
now a small mosque, said to cover the exact spot
where Sin and Lam sank into the ground, which
is called Seracheh, to which people resort to pray,
and make vows ; and close by, is an almost per
pendicular rock, where, I was informed, are to be
z

338 DEPARTURE.— WILD SHEEP.
seen the marks of the feet of the horses ridden by
the Guebres.
Similar legends are told of nearly every old place,
or curious rock, throughout this wild country; and
however absurd or improbable, they are religiously
believed by the greater part of the peasantry, and
hardly doubted by the better informed. I was
seriously told that one of the mahals of the town,
called Koutch-megaun, is on the spot where Satan
alighted when he fell from heaven, and that, con
sequently, the inhabitants are notorious for every
species of vice.
We found our caravanserai very comfortable, and
experienced no visitations of vermin. During the
night, the cries of the jackals almost made me be
lieve I was still in the low country.
Feb. 8. We left Semnoon at ten o'clock, and
proceeded across the plain, in a westerly direction.
At about a fursuck and a half from the town we
descried Saif-oollah Meerza's party hunting in a
distant part of the plain, and from the clouds of
dust raised by the horsemen, and the frequent re
ports of fire-arms, they must have found abund
ance of game. Three wild sheep crossed our path,
and we saw several more scampering in different
directions. They are amazingly swift, and few
dogs can come near them, unless they happen to
be in a flock, when they press together and im
pede each other ; in rocky and muddy ground also
they are not difficult to catch. I believe them to
be the species of " Ovis gmelii," or " Armenian
sheep" of naturalists.

SURKEH. — LASGHIRD. 339
We met many horse and foot passengers going
into the city, and numerous strings of asses laden
with the dry plant of the gum tragacanth, which
grows all over these plains, and is used for light
ing fires, as it ignites immediately. Its value is
about sixpence a load.
Fourteen miles from Semnoon we arrived at the
village of Surkeh, where Saif-oollah Meerza had
taken up his temporary abode. It is a large half-
ruined place ; the houses are built of mud, sur
rounded by gardens, beyond which is a consider
able extent of cultivation. On the left of the
road is an old mud-fortress, which has rather a
picturesque appearance ; on the right, the plain
was covered with mounds like gigantic mole-hills,
marking the course of numerous cannauts from the
neighbouring mountains, and numbers of the small
round-towers before mentioned were to be seen,
standing as sentinels, as it were, over the fields.
Continuing our march some twelve miles fur
ther, we came to Lasghird, twenty-six miles from
Semnoon. Lasghird is a circular mud-fortress, and the
most singular building I ever saw. The walls are
very lofty and solid, and a little above half their
height is a row of doors, like a ship's portholes,
opening outwards on a projecting wooden plat
form ; above these again, is another row of doors,
midway between the first row and the top of the
wall. The fortress is entered on the eastern side
through a small aperture, which is closed by a
huge stone revolving on a pivot. It contains about
z 2

340 LASGHIRD.
a hundred houses, built one over the other, and
connected by arched passages and flights of steps
and ladders, in the most curious manner ; and both
its interior construction, and the continual buzz
heard to proceed from it when at a little distance,
reminds one of a bee-hive. The whole village,
or community, is contained within the fort, which
seems to have been formerly surrounded by a
deep ditch, and must have been at all times per
fectly impregnable to the Toorcomans, who have
no idea of charging a wall, or standing to be shot
at from a loop-hole. The inhabitants support
themselves chiefly by gardening, and also raise a
little wheat and barley. The revenue . ought to
be ninety khalwars of grain, and three hundred
tomauns in money, but the inhabitants complain
ed that seven hundred tomauns were usually levied
from them. The gardeners pay in money, and
the husbandmen in grain.
Lasghird is famous for its cheese, which is
considered to be the best made in Persia ; Per
sian cheeses, however, at best are very poor and
dry, being generally extremely salt, but other
wise devoid of flavour. To the south-west of
the fort is a caravanserai similar to that at Au-
lioowan, also attributed to Shah Abbas, in one
of the vaulted chambers of which we established
ourselves for the night. All these buildings
are furnished with an aubambar, in front of the
gates ; but the water is often brackish here,
though drinkable : it was rather bitter. To the
south are the ruins of what was formerly either

ABDOOLLAHBAD. 341
a fort, or a caravanserai, but it is impossible to
determine which, as nothing remains but part of
the exterior walls.
Feb. 9. This morning was cloudy, and the wea
ther seemed preparing for rain. At nine o'clock
we took our departure from Lasghird, and cross
ing a wide plain, always keeping in a westerly
direction, we arrived at Abdoollahbad twelve miles
from our starting-place. We were now in Irauk,
having about a fursuck before crossed a bridge
over a deep narrow chasm, formed by a stream
of water, which divides this province from Kho
rassan. At Abdoollah«bad are the walls of an old mud-
fort, still standing, close to another of more mo
dern construction, which had been latterly re
paired by Mehmet Shah. At several of the post-
stations along this road, where there is nothing
but a deserted caravanserai, or old fort, as was
the case here, men have been placed by govern
ment, and fifty tomauns have been given them
to establish a shop for the sale of the provisions
necessary for travellers and their horses. In some
few instances where, from its position, the station
is seldom used as a resting-place, and the owners
of the shops cannot make a livelihood out of the
traffic, a salary of twenty tomauns per annum is
nominally granted by the Shah. The man, how
ever, at this place complained that during the
two years he had been here he had not received
anything. He was perfectly alone, unless a large
shaggy dog be called a companion ; and a more

342 CONTINUE OUR JOURNEY.
dreary life than he must lead, surrounded on all
sides by a barren, stony desert, with only an oc
casional traveller to speak to, it is not easy to
conceive. From this place we crossed another immense
plain, with slight undulations on its surface, at the
further extremity of which our purposed halting-
place was visible. About four miles from Ab-
doollahbad we passed a deep, narrow ravine, which
our guide pointed out as having formerly been
notorious for murders and robberies. A ruined
and now deserted tower is perched on a small
eminence just above it. After a hot and fatigu
ing ride of twenty-six miles, we came to Deh-
nummuck (salt village), where there is another
of Shah Abbas's caravanserais, and a mud-fort,
similar in plan to that of Lasghird, but neither
so large nor so perfect, having, in fact, almost crum
bled to pieces. It is now inhabited by only eight
families, who have been placed there by order
of the Shah. We had been told that the water
here was not drinkable, but we found it as good
as at most other stations.
Feb. 10. During the night a violent gale of
wind blew, but towards morning it had consider
ably abated, and at ten o'clock our wearied horSes
were once more toiling over another interminable
plain. At last we arrived at the fort or village
of Pordeh, constructed also on the same plan as
Lasghird ; but being in ruins at its summit, it is
more picturesque, though not so complete a spe
cimen of the style. We now entered a division

DESTRUCTION OF THE GRAIN CROPS BY FLIES. 343
of Irauk, calred Khaur. It is well watered by
numerous canals, cut from a stream, called Delli-
chai, and is exceedingly fertile, producing great
quantities of wheat, barley, and a little rice and
cotton. Unfortunately the grain-crops had been
almost totally destroyed for the last two years
by an insect, which the natives call "sin." They
come from the north, in immense flights, about
the middle of the spring, when the grain has
attained about a foot in height, and having re
mained three days laying their eggs in the plants,
disappear as suddenly as they came. About forty
days afterwards the young ones come forth, and
eat the inside of the ear, leaving only the husk.
The parent flies then return, and remaining one
night, assist their progeny to devour what may
remain untouched, and then all depart together.
Formerly, they used only to be seen in their
flight to some other place, or perhaps a village
only occasionally suffered from their devastations ;
but latterly, throughout the whole district, their
visits have been so destructive that the people
have not been able to pay the customary revenue.
The rice and cotton crops had also partially fail
ed, there having been for two successive seasons
a great scarcity of water. The comparative prices
of produce were : —
Tomauns. Tomauns.
Wheat at present 3| per 100 mauns tabreez. When cheap 1A
Barley „ 2\ „ „ „ „ „ 1
Rice „ 5 „ „ „ „ „ 4
Cotton „ 4 „ „ „ „ „ 3|

344 KISHLAUGH.
The revenue of the district of Klfaur should be
six thousand tomauns, and six thousand khalwars
of grain.
Continuing onwards, we passed in succession the
villages Kaleh-Haraubeh, Mehtabad, Alleeabad, and
Aradon ; this last was another of those curious mud-
fortresses ; but since security has been established,
the people seem to have preferred a less confined
residence, and have built houses among their gar
dens, leaving the fortress to fall gradually to decay.
The remainder of our ride to Kishlaugh, through
this well-cultivated and well-watered district, was
pleasant from its contrast with the barren and de
solate country we had lately traversed. We passed
many flourishing villages in the distance.
Kishlaugh belongs to a person named Reza Hus
sein Khan, by whose father it was built. It con
tains between sixty and seventy houses, and pays
a revenue of twenty per cent, on the produce of
its cultivation, ten per cent, to the crown and ten
per cent, to the owner, amounting to about forty
tomauns in money and forty khalwars of grain to
each. Several villages were in sight from the terrace
of our lodging; to the west Nodeh and Hussein-
abad, a mile distant; to the north, Karent, four
miles off; to the east, Norsor and Shahboudeh,
about two miles, and another village, also called
Kishlaugh, eight miles off; and, to the south, Lor-
jan, a mile and a half distant.
We departed from Kishlaugh at ten o'clock, and,
going a little north of west, travelled over a more

ARRIVE AT EYWANEKAIF. — VERAMINE. 345
barren part of the plain for about two fursucks,
when we entered a valley lying between low ranges
of sandy hills. An intensely salt stream flowed
through it, and the deposit on the edge was some
times half an inch thick. Travelling about four
miles through this valley, we passed the remains
of an old fort, and entered an extensive plain,
strongly impregnated with salt, and its eastern ex
tremity totally uncultivated ; two fursucks further
brought us to Eywanekaif, twenty miles from Kish-
lauk. Eywanekaif is held in tweel by Mehmet Khan,
master of the horse, and, we were told, pays a
revenue of three hundred tomauns and four hun
dred khalwars of produce. It has originally been
contained within the four mud-walls of a large
square fort, but now about two-thirds of the houses
are outside them ; altogether, there are about four
hundred. The village is surrounded by extensive
gardens and much cultivated land, and is famous
for its figs.
On entering the plain in which Eywanekaif is
situated, we had entered the district of Veramine,
which, together with Khaur, supplies Tehraun with
grain, and is both fertile and populous.
Leaving Eywanekaif, we reached Palesht, our
last stage from the capital, after a hot and dreary
ride of twenty-eight miles. At first, we had tra
velled over a barren plain along the skirts of the
Elburz, and crossed several small rivulets flowing
south, in which direction numerous fields and vil
lages were to be seen in the distance. The last

346 PALESHT. — TEHRAUN.
eight miles had been through a well-cultivated
country ; and we now, for the first time since quit
ting the vicinity of Saree, beheld the peak of De-
mawund covered with snow; the mountain, how
ever, appeared very insignificant, as it appeared
from the high land on which we were, after having
been viewed from the far lower level of the shores
of the Caspian.
We obtained here tolerable quarters, as usual,
in a mud-plastered room. I have not described
any of our lodgings during the latter part of our
journey, as, with the exception of the caravanserais,
they were precisely the same as those between Ta
breez and Ardebeel. Palesht is about four miles
nearer Tehraun than Kabout-i-Goombuz (blue tower
or dome), which is the first post-station on the
Meshed road ; the surrounding villages are, how
ever, always preferred by muleteers, as the Kabout-
i-Goombuz is nothing more than one of Shah Ab-
bas's caravanserais, where no one resides but the
person who has care of the chupper-horses placed
there. Feb. 13th. At ten o'clock we left Palesht, and
rode along the foot of the mountains towards Teh
raun. The city lies in the middle of a hollow
plain, and was not visible till we ascended an inter
vening hill, and were within four miles of it. It
presents nothing beautiful nor calculated to give
one the idea of the capital of an empire ; no gilded
domes and sparkling minarets, but a small city,
about the size of Semnoon, four miles in circum
ference, built of mud, and hardly to be distin-

REV. DR. WOLFF. 347
guished in colour from the surrounding plain. We
were now met by several gentlemen attached to
the English mission, who were previously known
to my friend, and, in about an hour afterwards,
it was with no small delight that we found our
selves in an European house, with the comfortable
assurance that we should take our breakfast the
next morning without the pleasure of a hot ride
of some twenty miles immediately afterwards.
In the evening, we dined with the British Charge"
d'affaires, and were introduced to the Rev. Dr.
Wolff, who was about to depart on the morrow
for Bokhara. This singular man cannot fail to
make an impression on all who have seen him ; his
extreme simplicity and utter ignorance of the ways
of the world, left one in amazement as to how he
could possibly have got thus far on the arduous and
philanthropic journey he had undertaken, and which
certainly, at first, suggested doubts as to the final
accomplishment of a task from which many a
younger, and apparently bolder, man would shrink.
But, in fact, this very simplicity tends to ensure
his success ; the wild people among whom he goes
have never seen his like before, so wrapped up
in his own thoughts and speculations, and so totally
regardless of self. Should he be asked for money,
he would give it with a smile, and would almost
express his gratitude. Besides, he is known among
the Toorcoman tribes, and the sacred character with
which they have invested him, considering bim a
man of God, added to his perfectly harmless and
inoffensive behaviour, will prove his greatest pro-

348 REV. DR. WOLFF.
tection, and will command for him assistance from
all who have the power of rendering it.
The following morning he departed, with the
sincere prayers of every one for his ultimate suc
cess ; and we accompanied him several miles from
Tehraun. He was habited in full canonicals, with
an amazingly old battered white hat, and bestrode
a mule, which, from his extreme timidity when
mounted, he insisted on being led. The only at
tendants with him were his own servant and two
gholaums, one sent by the Persian government,
and the other by the British mission. They were
to accompany him as far as Meshed, whence, after
a little rest and some preparation, he intended pro
ceeding with his own servant to Surekhs, where
he would leave him, and continue his journey alone
through each tribe with one of its members, which
method, he said, he had formerly adopted with the
most perfect security.
Dr. Wolff has been most kindly treated in Persia ;
he was furnished with all necessary papers and letters
of recommendation by the Shah and his ministers,
and travelled under no kind of apprehension for his
own personal safety. With regard to the unfortu
nate prisoners, he neither desponded, nor was he
too sanguine in his hopes ; but from all he had been
able to learn on the road, together with his previous
knowledge of the manners and customs of the court
of Bokhara, he thought that there was at least a
great probability of their existence.
His arrival at Meshed, and subsequently at Bok
hara, where his hopes were destroyed by the fact

REV. DR. WOLFF. 349
then ascertained of the death of the captives, have
been long since known ; but up to the present time,
his long detention at that place gives rise to a fear
lest he should ultimately share the fate of his un
fortunate friends.*
* This fear has happily proved to be unfounded.

350

CHAPTER XIX.
Description of Tehraun  Race-course. — Ruins of Rhe  Hadgee
Meerza Aghassee  Manner in which he became Vizier 
Anecdotes. — Meerza Abool Hassan Khan. — Mehmet Shah.
During my month's stay in Tehraun, most of the
European residents were in ill health, which took
away much from the pleasure of my visit ; but my
time was fully employed in making the acquaintance
of Persians, and rambling about the town.
Tehraun is surrounded by a dry ditch, and, with
the exception of a few shops outside some of the
gates, is entirely contained within an embattled
mud-wall, flanked by numerous round-towers in
very tolerable repair.
The city cannot boast of any building of either
beauty or antiquity : that of the greatest conse
quence is the citadel, which is fortified in the same
manner as the town, and contains the palace of the
Shah, and the houses of most of his court. It was
originally built by Rerrim Khan Vekeel, and has
been enlarged and embellished by succeeding mon
archs. On passing the ditch and gate is a maidan
(square), surrounded by barracks, and now occupied
by six or seven hundred pieces of artillery. In the
centre, on a raised platform, is an immense piece of

DESCRIPTION OF TEHRAUN. 351
ordnance, which was cast by Kurreem Khan, and was
formerly placed in an imaumzadeh called Shahee
Tchiraugh, at Shirauz. It was afterwards brought
here ; and having, it is supposed, partaken of the
sanctity of the spot from which it came, is respected
as a sanctuary. The carriage is falling to pieces ;
and the Persians wish to make a new one, but dare
not take the gun down, fearing that they should
never be able to mount it again. Crossing this
maidan, and going through a gateway ornamented
with coloured tiles, one enters the royal establish
ment, consisting of numerous courts, gardens, and
divankhanehs, both public and private. There are
six or seven mosques at Tehraun, of which the prin
cipal is the Mesjid Shah, built, like that at Sem
noon, by the late king ; all the others are insignifi
cant. There are said to be between a hundred and
fifty and two hundred public baths, and a like num
ber of caravanserais.
The city is divided into four parishes or maha
lehs : the mahaleh Bazar, the mahaleh Tchai Mai
dan, the mahaleh Owd Larjan, and the mahaleh
Senghilek; and possesses five gates, named either
after the districts into which they open, or from the
places to which the road leads : thus, to the east,
the Abdul Azzeem gate, leading to the district and
village of that name, where is a mosque, built in
honour of the Sheik Abdul Azzeem, a son of the
seventh Imaum. The village is situated on the site
and among the ruins of the ancient city of Rhe\
To the north-east, Doulaub gate, leading to a vil
lage of that name, whence Tehraun is supplied with

352 DESCRIPTION OF TEHRAUN.
vegetables of all kinds. To the north, Shimeroon
gate, opening towards that district lying along the
foot of the Elburz, and excessively fertile and po
pulous ; and Doulet gate (royal), leading direct
to the palace, and generally used by the Shah.
To the west, Casveen gate, leading to that city, on
the high road to Tabreez.
These gates are well built, with domed entrances,
ornamented with coloured bricks, inlaid in the shape
of lions, tigers, and deeves or genii, and appear to be
kept in good repair.
At the Sheik Abdul Azzeem gate, through which
all caravans of merchandise are obliged to enter,
no matter from what direction they may come, the
custom-house is established, and the same dues
levied both on entrance and departure.
The duty varies according to the nature of the
goods : it is generally four kurrauns per load ; but
on some inferior articles, it is from one kurraun
upwards. The revenue of Tehraun (city) is 37,000 tomauns
in money, of which the custom-house pays 13,000.
That of the whole province of Irauk is 1,037,000
tomauns in money, besides about 108,000 khalwars
of grain, straw, &c.
The bazars are built of brick, with vaulted roofs,
and whenever the court is at Tehraun, present a
lively and bustling appearance. The shops are well
filled, and exhibit British and Russian goods, Ger
man glassware, hardware, and cloth, and the produc
tions and manufactures of Persia. There is in the
Georgian caravanserai a shop, which has lately been

DESCRIPTION OF TEHRAUN. 353
fitted up in the European style, where every ima
ginable commodity is to be found.
From the bazars is a passage leading into a square
court occupied by gunsmiths, who are skilful at
their trade, and turn out very respectable weapons ;
but, as they find much difficulty in getting money
for their articles, the number they manufacture is
insignificant. Next to this yard is the cannon-foun
dry, which is one of the Prime Minister's hobbies,
and is under his particular superintendence. I have
been told that they make very good guns, but have
no artillerymen to manage them when made.
Tehraun can scarcely be called a commercial
town ; though, where there is a court, there will al
ways be a great consumption and a certain amount
of trade. There is also a transit trade to all parts
of Persia; but during my short stay I was not
able to learn any particulars.
The population in general consists of between
sixty and seventy thousand souls ; but it fluctuates
considerably, according to the absence or presence
of the court.
The streets are not paved : in summer they are
exceedingly dusty, and in wet weather almost im
passable from the deep mud. The houses are built
with sun-dried bricks, in the same style as is used
throughout the whole of Upper Persia.
The appearance of the country around the city is
at this season very dreary and desolate, being stony
and barren. To the north is the Cusr-i-Kudjer, a
summer-house built by Fathy Ali Shah. On a raised
platform of earth, supported by terraces gradually
A A

354 RUINS OF RHE.
rising in succession, and at the foot of the elevation,
is a garden : it was generally tenanted during the
summer by the royal harem ; but the place was
found so unhealthy, that for the last two years it
has been shut up, and is rapidly falling into decay.
About eight miles from the city, in the same direc
tion, at the foot of the mountains, are the yeilauks,
where the British and Russian missions and most
of the richer inhabitants retire in the summer, when
the heat in the city is suffocating, and the air al
most pestiferous.
To the north-west the Shah has lately made a
race-course, enclosed by walls, and furnished with a
small building for his own accommodation, which
may be called the Grand Stand. The races gene
rally take place about the Norooz ; and, as I left
Tehraun before that time, I was not able to witness
the manner in which they are now conducted. I
frequently saw the horses in training, mounted by
their jockeys, boys between eight and ten years old.
There were races at Tehraun for many years before
this course was laid out. The race used to be con
tinued for about twelve miles; and, when it was
nearly completed, some fresh horses belonging to
the Shab, which were concealed behind a wall built
for the purpose, joined the rest — and, of course,
won the race.
In a south-easterly direction, about five miles off,
are the ruins of Rh6, which have been noticed by
all travellers who have visited Tehraun ; and I can
only say with Fraser, " Never, perhaps, were ruins
with less to satisfy the appetite of the antiquary !

HADGEE MEERZA AGHASSEE. 355
Nothing is seen but heaps of potsherds arid rubbish,
well dug over, and excavated for all the fire-burnt
bricks they might contain." Sir John Macdonald
also says, " They offer nothing worthy of observation."
There are, however, still to be traced, along an off
shoot from the Elburz, the remains of walls and
towers ; and among the rubbish below stands a
curious circular tower of about fifty feet high, and
a hundred and twenty feet in circumference outside
"Ck ((fee walls, which are arranged in twenty-four trian
gular compartments, each of about five feet in width.
Encircling the summit is an inscription in the Cufic
character ; the interior is empty, and devoid of
ornament. At the top, on the north side, it is
partly broken down, and there is the appearance
of a narrow staircase in the thickness of the wall ;
but I could see nothing more than that it was
hollow, and could find no entrance to it. I fan
cied that the earth flooring returned a hollow
sound as I walked across it. There are two or
three towers in the vicinity, but I only saw them
at a distance.
On the 21st we paid our respects to Hadgee
Meerza Aghassee, the Prime Minister. We found
him in his divan-khaneh, surrounded by people, who,
at the moment we were announced, were all uncere
moniously turned out, except Meerza Abool Hassan
Khan, formerly Ambassador to England, and now
Minister for Foreign Affairs, who, being the Hadgee's
colleague, was seated on the same nummud. The
room was a very handsome one ; the walls and ceil
ing being beautifully painted in flowers, women's
A A 2

356 HADGEE MEERZA AGHASSEE.
heads, and other devices, and the windows being
of coloured glass.
The Hadgee received us very politely, and com
menced a most extraordinary conversation, some
times on one topic and sometimes on another; in
the same breath asking questions, and answering
them himself: and, before we had been there five
minutes, he gave us clearly to understand, that, in
his own estimation, the world had seldom seen a
man equal to Hadgee Meerza Aghassee. " Who was
Bonaparte?" he exclaimed ; "he could have made
him walk round his little finger. And Aflatoon
(Plato) and Aristotle — whose dogs were they ? They
might have been wise — it was likely they were;
but he was not altogether an ass !" (" Aster farallah !
— God forbid !" muttered his companion.) And then
shoving his cap on one side of his head, with an
air of immense satisfaction, he dashed off to quite
another subject, and, without a moment's pause,
enquired " What kind of fortress are the Russians
building at Arshourada?"
We endeavoured to persuade him that no such
thing was intended, but he did not appear con
vinced of it. He spoke with no great favour of
the Russians; and, having asked many questions
regarding their occupation of the above-mentioned
island, said, that the Persian Government had no
wish that they should remain there. On it being
remarked that they were the guests of Persia, that
they had been invited to come there, and there
fore ought to be better treated, he denied having
given any invitation, and enquired, " What is your

HADGEE MEERZA AGHASSEE. 357
idea of a guest ? This is mine : — You come, unat
tended, to see me ; you make your bow. I say,
'Khosh aumedeed ! you are welcome; take a seat,
take a seat.' I call for kalleoons, order tea, coffee,
sweetmeats, — in short, everything you can wish for.
I call that being my guest. But, supposing you
come to see me, with a fellow behind you point
ing a bayonet at my breast, I say ' Khosh aume
deed !' I tell you to be seated ; I show you, appa
rently, the same attention as before; but I con
ceive the case to be very different. Had your
mission come here while a squadron of your ships
of war pointed their guns on Bunder Busheer,
you would have been somewhat the same kind of
guest as the Russians : — guests indeed !" and then
again, instantaneously changing the conversation, he
began enumerating the improvements he had late
ly made about Tehraun ; and soon after we took
leave. The Hadgee resembles a Toorcoman in features,
with his long wrinkled face and scanty beard. He
is a spare man, has a very peculiar expression of
countenance, and I should have rather supposed
him to have been some harmless lunatic than the
Prime Minister of Persia. His history is rather
singular. He was one of the meerzas, or scribes, of the
Armenian patriarch at Erioon, and is said to be
very learned and well read in Persian literature.
Abbas Meerza wanting a tutor for his sons, the
Hadgee was recommended and engaged, with a
salary of fifty or sixty tomauns per annum ; he

358 MANNER IN WHICH
educated all the princes, and prophesied to each
that he should one day wear the crown of Persia.
In one case, of course, he was right ; and, on Abbas
Meerza's death, Mahomed Meerza was named, by
Fathy Ali Shah, his heir, and succeeded to the
throne of his grandfather. The Hadgee used to
say that he was the most stupid of the sons of
Abbas Meerza, and that teaching him was like
driving a nail into a stone block.
Soon after the accession of the new King, the
Hadgee went to Tehraun to remind him of his
services and his prophecy, with a view to obtain
a pension ; and he was then so poor, that he was
obliged to pawn a gun, a sword, and some other
articles, to pay the expenses of his journey.
He was favoured with an interview with his
old pupil, and, having received an imperial order
for a pension of five hundred tomauns a-year, he
retired to get the paper sealed by Meerza Abdul
Kossim, the Vizier, or Kaimakan, as he was called.
The affixing of the seal was put off, on one pre
tence or another, from day to day ; and the Hadgee,
seeing that his firmaun was likely to undergo the
fate of many others, again went before the Shah.
" What manner of King are you ?" said the Had
gee ; " it is true you gave me a firmaun, but your
Minister will not seal it, and it is useless — take
back the paper ! Is it thus you treat your oldest
and most faithful servant?" " Stay," said the
Shah, reddening with anger ; " wait a moment,
Hadgee : we shall see whether I am the Shah of
Persia or not." The same hour, or very soon

HADJEE MEERZA AGHASSEE BECAME VIZIER. 359
afterwards, the Kaimakan was summoned to the
royal presence. He came, as usual, without sus
picion of what had occurred. The King looked
fiercely at him, and commenced a long list of
complaints : " I have now been on the throne nearly
six months — my army is not paid — nothing is
attended to ; my commands are slighted — every
thing goes wrong ; and, by the head of the Shah !
when I give firmauns to my old and faithful
servants, they are thrown aside as so much waste-
paper. Wallah ! Billah ! Is it not so ? Is my beard
to be laughed at in this fashion ? Seize him, — seize
him !" The feroshes rushed on their prey, and, be
fore he was well out of the presence, not a rag
remained on his back. He was much hated at
court; all therefore, treated him as a disgraced
Minister having no friend, cuffing and kicking
him to their hearts' content. He was afterwards
conveyed to a small garden outside the town, near
the Doulet-gate, where he was strangled.
No one expected that the Hadgee would ever
rise to the post of Prime Minister ; but he managed
to be constantly near the King, gained his con
fidence and became necessary to his comfort, and
gradually and quietly slipped into the place, which
he has occupied ever since. He is now in fact the
actual monarch, as almost all business about the
court is done by him. He sometimes says to the
King, "As I am your sacrifice, what does your
Majesty know about the matter? Let the Shah
attend to his pleasures, and leave business to me."
The Kaimakan was strangled in the spring of

360 ANECDOTES.
1835 : the immediate cause of his death was, no
doubt, the Hadgee's firmaun ; but he was much
disliked and distrusted by the King, whom he
used constantly to control in a thousand trifling
ways. The Shah, for instance, would call in his
jellowdar, and order out horses to take a ride ;
but, before the man could reach the door, . the
Minister would say, "May it please the Kibleh-
aulum, (point of the world's adoration,) but it is
going to rain ; your Majesty had better not ride
to-day ;" and turning to the grooms, " There is
no occasion for the horses." He knew the King
to be a weak man, and relied too much on the
influence he supposed himself to have obtained
over him. I was told, that after his death two
chests full of unsigned berauts (orders on the trea
sury) were found, all of which were, of course,
charged as paid in the Government accounts.
Many people believe the Hadgee to be really
insane, while others say his eccentricity is more
feigned than real. Stories of the most childish
absurdity are related of him. While the army
was encamped before Heraut, he would frequently
enquire if the town had yet surrendered. The
reply being in the negative, he would burst into
most furious invectives against Kamraun Shah.
" May the graves of his ancestors - be defiled ! "
he exclaimed : " whose dog is he, that he thus pre
sumes to oppose me? But I will have mercy no
longer; tell Sheer-i-Mohamed (the chief execu
tioner) to come here." The Nasackchi Bashi was
introduced, and the Hadgee ordered him to take

ANECDOTES. 361
some stout feroshes, and instantly bring him the
head of the Prince. " Becheshm," said the exe
cutioner ; and he went very quietly back to his
quarters. As soon as he had left the audience
hall, the whole assembly would entreat the Hadgee
to be merciful. " Spare his life ; remember he has
children ; Aga, he has a wife ; it is a pity to put
him to death ;" and at length, after much persuasion
and entreaty, the farce would be concluded by the
order being countermanded. This may appear al
most incredible, the absurdity is so great ; as every
man amongst them knew right well that Kamraun
Shah was snug in his own palace, and as much out
of the Hadgee's power as the Hadgee was out of
his. But, with all this absurdity and eccentricity, the
Hadgee is a clever man ; he has managed to keep
his place for nearly ten years, and is now in as high
favour as ever : this alone would prove it. The
way in which he managed the Persians on the first
excitement of the late affair at Kerbela, showed,
at least, a thorough knowledge of the people with
whom he had to deal. He said to the European
elchees (ambassadors), when they were preaching
moderation and peace, " Now you must leave all
to me ; take no notice of what I say or do, and
upon my head be it that all shall end as you wish."
They did so ; and the Hadgee every day, at his levee,
was abusing the Osmanloos, and, to the delight of
the surrounding and excited mob, described gra
phically how they should cut them in pieces, and
the insults that should be heaped on their mothers,

362 ANECDOTES.
wives, daughters, and their whole generation. He
issued orders in the arsenal for the preparation
of cannon and ammunition ; one regiment was sent
in this direction, another in that ; toofenkchees were
drilled, and then disbanded; gholaums, who had
packets with nothing in them, were despatched
hither and thither almost hourly : all was bustle,
and, to the eyes of the admiring people, everything
had the appearance of immense and active pre
paration; while, in reality, with the exception of
the marching and countermarching of several bodies
of men, nothing whatever was done. The appa
rent preparation delighted the Persians ; but, as the
Hadgee expected, the immediate excitement passed
away, and they soon got tired of it : whereas, had
he attempted to check it on the first outbreak, the
consequences might have been serious.
Feridoon Meerza, one of the Shah's half-brothers,
was named Governor of Shirauz. His retinue was
chiefly composed of natives of Azerbeijan, who ill-
treated the inhabitants, plundering them, insulting
them, and committing all kinds of excess, till at
last they rose en masse, besieged him in his
palace, and, had it not been for a regiment which
had been drilled by British officers, and some artil
lery, who remained faithful to him, he would have
been taken, and probably put to death. The Shah
heard of the state of things, and immediately des
patched Meerza Nebbee Khan to examine into
and quell the disturbance; and Feridoon Meerza
was politely requested to make the best of his way
back to Tehraun. All this had been kept a pro-

ANECDOTES. 363
found secret from the Hadgee, who happened to
entertain a particular affection for Feridoon Meerza,
and always considered him the cleverest of the sons
of Abbas Meerza. However, the rumour of the
affair at last reached his ears, and, making his way
into the King's tent, (he being then encamped near
Tehraun,) the Hadgee abruptly began, " Ah ! so
it is thus you treat Feridoon Meerza ? There !"
(dashing his cap on the floor,) " take my office ; I
remain . no longer :" and he precipitately left the
tent. "Vai! vai! vai!" exclaimed the astonished
Shah. " Hadgee, come back ! capugee bashi (door
keeper), stop him ! bring him back !" and the
Hadgee was at last, pacified ; the King requesting
to be informed why he should wish to retain the
crown, if he lost his faithful Minister.
Another time, very lately, the Sheghaughee regi
ment at Tehraun, wanting pay, came to the house of
the Hadgee, who began to abuse them ; they re
torted, and commenced an assault on the house, so
that he was forced to comply with their demands.
He then remained at home in great anger for six or
eight days, when finding that the Shah did not take
any notice of him, and never sent for him, he
thought he might be carrying things too far, and left
his house for the royal residence. About midway,
however, he met his Majesty coming to pay him a
visit ; and dismounting, kissed his hand. " Where
are you going, Hadgee ?" asked the King. " To the
arsenal," replied he, not wishing his real intention
to be known; and seeing, at a glance, that his
Majesty had been rather anxious about his non-

364 ANECDOTES-
appearance, and wanted to make things smooth again.
" But I am going to pay you a visit, Hadgee."
" Bismillah," said the Minister ; and they returned
together to his own house, when in a few minutes
Hadgee regained all his influence and became as
great a favourite as ever ; the Shah praying that he
might not reign ten days after he had lost his faith
ful servant ; and the Hadgee, in rejoinder, hoping
that ten years might be taken from his own life and
added to that of his Sovereign.
The scenes that sometimes take place at the
Hadgee's hall of audience are highly amusing.
Business in the East is transacted in a manner alto
gether different from the European practice. The
Minister almost every day sits in public, when
berauts, petitions, complaints, and firmauns are
presented to him. His room is generally crowded
to excess, and each person presses forward and holds
out his paper, while all are shouting at the same
time, " Hi janum, Agha ! look at this," — "Only a mo
ment,"—" Sign this,"—" Read this," — till at last the
Hadgee, nearly smothered, and completely puzzled,
bawls out, " Ho, ferosh, ferosh ! turn out these
dogs' sons ; they are killing me." One of the feroshes
is a perfect Hercules ; and I have heard it described
as most laughable to see him, on these occasions,
seize some unfortunate individual and thrust him
through the door-way into the passage. A rush
then takes place in order to avoid similar treatment,
and the whole assembly scramble or tumble head
over heels into the court below.
Every one in Persia laughs at the Vizier ; but he

ANECDOTES. 365
is, perhaps, as much liked as it is possible for
a man in his situation to be. He is humane,
and often interferes in behalf of those whom he
thinks suffer harsh treatment at the hands of the
King. One great secret of his popularity is, that
he makes a point of never refusing anything. A
man, for instance, asks for a pension — the Hadgee
grants it in the most gracious and flattering
manner, and perhaps immediately gives a Govern
ment order for the sum on Bahman Meerza at Tab
reez. The applicant goes away delighted, while the
Hadgee secretly writes to the Prince not to pay the
order. Subsequently the man finds his beraut use
less ; but this does not altogether efface the impres
sion originally given of the Hadgee's kindness ; and
the applicant feels much comforted by the idea that
the pension has positively been granted to him, and
that, though he does not get it, he has a right to it.
The Minister has done some good on a small
scale in the vicinity of Tehraun. He has built
several villages, and has been lately cutting a canal
from the river Keredge to Tehraun, where the water
is scarce and bad. He lately went there to inspect
the works; and, on arriving, was accosted by an
Isphahaunee donkey-driver, who had long been em
ployed in the work, but received no pay. " Hai,
Aga," said he, throwing himself before the Had
gee's horse ; " I have been long working here, but I
get no wages. I and my asses are starving ; do not
allow me to be thus treated !" " Dog of an Ispha
haunee !" said the Minister ; " who are you ? What
dirt are you eating ? Go and die — what more is an

366 MEERZA ABOOL HASSAN KHAN.
Isphahaunee fit for? — go, go!" The attendants
seized the man, forced him aside, and the party pro
ceeded. The donkey-driver, however, piqued at his
abuse as an Isphahaunee, was not thus to be intimi
dated, and again throwing himself before the Hadgee
cried out, " Aga, Aga, listen to me ; it is true I am
an Isphahaunee, and only fit to die. I am content ;
but my donkeys, Aga, my donkeys are all Toorks,
must they starve too ?" The Hadgee is of a Toork
tribe, and the laugh which this witticism raised was
the means of obtaining for the donkey-driver his
just demand.
Numerous are the stories and anecdotes told of
this eccentric man ; some undoubtedly true, though
many are pure fictions, as every one in Persia exer
cises his talents in raising a laugh at his expense.
But enough of the Hadgee, who, to say the least of
him, is the greatest curiosity at Tehraun.
On the 23rd we visited Meerza Abool Hassan
Khan, the Minister for Foreign Affairs, who, as I
before mentioned, was formerly Ambassador to
England. He is a fat jolly old fellow, always laugh
ing, and still speaks a little of his broken English.
He said, he should very much like to go back again
were he not too old. The room in which we were
received was one of his private apartments, very
nicely fitted up in somewhat of an European style.
As he seemed to have business on hand, our visit
was soon concluded.
During my stay at Tehraun, I went out coursing
several times, but always without success. There
was formerly a great deal of game in the immediate

MEHMET SHAH. 367
vicinity of the town, but now there is none within
several fursucks.
On the 4th of March, I was presented to the
Shah. We rode to the citadel, and, dismounting at
the entrance, walked through several courts, in one
of which we met Meerza Abool Hassan Khan in
his court-dress, which consisted of a shawl round his
head, and a red cloth cloak, with stockings of the
same colour : he conducted us to the private room
where the King was to receive us. It was not
large ; and the walls, of plain white plaster, were
stained and dirty : they were hung round with various
prints of Napoleon, Prince Albert and Queen Vic
toria, and some others, of which the value might
have been sixpence each ; there were also several
small circular portraits in plaster of Paris of the
heads of the different Kings and distinguished per
sonages of Europe. When we entered, the Shah
was sitting opposite the door on his couch, dressed
in a shawl-coat, an under-garment. of dark green
calico buttoned up to the throat with gilt buttons, a
shawl round his waist, shalwars or wide trowsers of
the blue cotton manufacture of Persia, and a com
mon lambskin cap. He looked excessively ill-tem
pered, without the slightest dignity in his manner,
and in my eyes appeared altogether a very ordinary
personage. On his left was a large or-molu clock
of curious workmanship, presented to him by Sir
John Campbell ; and a small Russian table and two
or three chairs were all the moveables. Our visit
was short, and little was said ; and I returned home,
I confess, much disappointed. The Shah suffers

368 MEHMET SHAH.
severely from gout, which it is not unlikely will
shortly put an end to his existence. He has no
taste for display, and no magnificence is. kept up at
court. He scarcely ever appears in his regalia. At
the Norooz, when it has always been the custom of
the kings of Persia to clothe themselves with all
possible splendour, he shows himself in a red coat
with epaulettes and embroidery of pearls, which
highly disgusts the Persians, who say that it is nei
ther an European costume nor their own, and that
he looks more like a " fesoul" (tom-fool) than any
thing else. He never goes in summer to encamp at
Sultanieh with his court and army, as was Fathy
Ali Shah's custom ; but generally pitches his tents
during the hot season somewhere in the vicinity of
Tehraun, and amuses himself with hunting.

369

CHAPTER XX.
Leave Tehraun — Chuppar Ride to Tabreez. — Bahman Meerza.—
Tabreez. — Ruins. — Manner of supplying the Town with Water.
— Bazars. — Trade. — Gardens. — Norooz. — Leave Persia.
On the 4th of March a chuppar, arriving from
Tabreez, brought me letters which determined me
to hasten thither; and on the 8th I left Tehraun
with a Gholaum of the mission, Reza Kooly Beg,
the bearer of despatches to the former place.
Several of my friends accompanied me about a
fursuck on my way, when, having bidden adieu to
them and the kind companion of my journey to
Tehraun, I mounted my horse and soon lost sight
of the city. The road lay over a bare, stony plain,
dotted here and there with lines of mounds indi
cating the canauts used for irrigation. Having
travelled two fursucks from the town, we passed
a small rivulet called Kend, which derives its name
from a village situated near its source. From this
point the country was perfectly barren, until, having
rounded a portion of one of the mountains, we came
again on a little cultivation; and leaving the vil
lage of Tchellek, perched on the side of the hills,
on the right, we crossed the river Keredge over
a picturesque bridge, and entered the village of the
B B

370 CHUPPAR RIDE TO TABREEZ.
same name just at sunset, having ridden twenty-
four miles. The chuppar khoneh here is in the
remains of one of Shah Abbas's old caravanserais,
where having made a hasty dinner, in about ten
minutes I ordered out the animals, and we pro
ceeded on our way. Keredge is a fine village.
The Shah has here a shooting-house, where he
sometimes makes a short stay. There are plenty
of partridges, wild sheep, hares, and antelopes in
the vicinity. The gardens are well stocked with
fruit-trees, and the surrounding district produces
barley, wheat, lentils, and cotton.
From this place we got two horses, one of which
I rode, and the other the Gholaum appropriated ;
and two asses for my baggage and the Suridgee, or
guide. We had not the prospect of a very plea
sant or quick ride ; the night being cold and dark,
and the road stony. We had thirty-six miles to
travel to Sefer Khodjeh, the next menzil : our
horses seemed wretched brutes, and could hardly
put one leg before the other; the asses being by
far the more serviceable animals. We had hardly
got a mile from Keredge when we met Allayah
Beg Gholaum, who travelled with me from Erze-
room some five months before. He was bringing
despatches from thence, and complained sadly of
the horses along the road ; he had been eight
hours from Sefer Khodjeh, and could not make
his horse go faster than a walk : after a couple
of minutes' conversation we continued our respec
tive routes. The moon rose about ten o'clock,
and in some places, the road being good, by dint

CHUPPAR RIDE TO TABREEZ. 371
of whipping and spurring we managed to get up
a sort of trot ; but it was not till near morning
that we arrived at Sefer Khodjeh. I ordered fresh
horses immediately, and before sunrise we were
again on our way to Casveen, a distance of twenty-
eight miles. Close to Sefer Khodjeh is the village
of Kishlauk, and there is a considerable extent
of cultivation on every side. After travelling two
or three miles, we crossed a stream which had
deposited a thick layer of salt on each bank, and
entered a barren, stony plain. There bad been a
slight frost during the night, and a thin coating
of ice lay along the edges of the streams we passed,
which were all salt, with the exception of one
running along a deep artificial channel to some
cultivated land at a distance. This is the only
drinkable water between Sefer Khodjeh and Cas
veen, and nearly the whole road lies over a barren
plain, the desolate aspect of which is heightened
by the frequent remains of deserted villages.
On approaching the city of Casveen, we entered
a tolerably well cultivated tract of country. No
thing is seen of the town till one is close to it,
being concealed by the gardens which surround
it for some two miles on every side. It is de
fended by walls and towers, and appears of con
siderable extent. The bazars, through which I rode,
are large and well supplied, and were filled with
people. There were two conspicuous mosques ;
one, called the Mesjid-i-Shah, built by Fathy Ali
Shah ; and another, of much older date, distinguished
by a large dome and two minarets of glazed blue
B B 2

372 CHUPPAR RIDE TO TABREEZ.
bricks, which are now partially destroyed. The
dome was also formerly decorated in a similar
manner, but all the tiles had fallen. The chuppar
khoneh at Casveen is in a ruined medressah,
which, with the old mosque last alluded to, is
built like the works of the age of Shah Abbas.
I had ordered horses immediately on arriving, and,
after an unusually short delay, started for Siah-
Dahen, a distance of twenty-four miles. Casveen
is not naturally well supplied with water, and has
therefore many fine aubambars ; these, when full,
I was told, contain water sufficient for two years'
consumption. I passed one of them in leaving
the town ; it was handsomely decorated with glazed
bricks, and fitted up with baudgheers, to assist
in keeping the water cool. It was built by one
Hadgee Agha, a seller of pottery, who, having
amassed a sum of money, dedicated it at his death
to this work of charity.
We had, for this stage, really capital horses,
and the road was beautifully level and free from
stones. We passed several villages surrounded by
patches of cultivation, though by far the greater
part of the way was, as usual, desert, here and
there dotted with long lines of canauts, conducting
water into the more fertile plains below. About
a fursuck from Siah-Dahen, we came to the village
of Dahek ; here the road resembled a fine gravel
walk, and we rode into Siah-Dahen at a gallop.
On arriving, it was just dark ; and we started
again, almost immediately, for Khorrum-derreh,
a thirty-two mile stage. Our cattle could scarcely

KHORRUM-DERREH. 373
move ; I never saw such wretched animals : and
the fatigue of riding a horse during a long, dark,
and cold night, when one has not slept for thirty-six
hours previously, is only to be conceived by those
who have experienced it. We had not got four
miles from Siah-Dahen, when one of the horses
refused to proceed, and we were obliged to leave
it at a small village, which happened to be close
at hand, named Kishlaugh, and continued our jour
ney with the remaining three, one poor brute having
to sustain the weight of my baggage, as well as
of the Suridgee, who soon after was forced to get
off and walk the remainder of the stage. During
the whole night we did not move faster than a
foot's pace, and a more tedious ride I never ex
perienced. It was morning before we reached
Khorrum-derreh, and though I felt sleepy, yet,
as we had been so very slow in coming, and I
wished to get on, I ordered horses to be prepared
immediately, and we continued our journey to Sul-
tanieh, twenty-four miles further.
Khorrum-derreh is situated in a valley, through
which runs a small river, fertilizing the surrounding
country. Wherever there is water in Persia, the
land is productive and well cultivated ; but this
valuable element is sadly deficient throughout the
land. Around the village, on all sides, were fruit-
gardens and fields already green with the young
barley. We left Khorrum-derreh with three horses and
an ass, and again had the greatest difficulty in
getting along ; whip and spur were applied in vain,

374 SULTANIEH.
now and then a jog-trot was all we could accom
plish. The road lay along the left side of the
valley for about eight miles, when the mountains
on each side receded, and the wide plains of Sulta-
nieh opened on our view. Four miles after leaving
our last halting-place, we passed the village of Hiveh ;
and four miles further, at the extremity of the
valley, that of Sai'n Kaleh. After entering the
plain, no more cultivation is to be seen until
arriving at Sultanieh ; all is one dreary and un
inhabited expanse, only made use of for feeding
sheep, several flocks of which were scattered about
in different directions. Some snow was lying here
and there in the corners of the ditches, the first
I had seen on the road. Sultanieh is not seen
until within four miles of the place, being situated
rather low. The mosque, containing the tomb of
Sultan Mohamed Khodabundeh, forms a very con
spicuous object, and rises high above the ruined
huts with which it is surrounded. It was originally
ornamented with glazed tiles, but they have now
almost all fallen off. The tomb is a large octangular
building, surmounted by a dome, with a minaret
at each angle, most of which are half broken down.
The chuppar khoneh is situated close by the ruin.
I had fresh horses prepared as soon as possible,
wishing to reach Zenjon before dark; and, a quarter
of an hour after our arrival, we were again in the
saddle. The chuppargees, all along the road, complained
.sadly of the manner in which they receive their
pay, or rather in which it is withheld. Two hun-

POST-ROADS IN PERSIA. 375
dred tomauns a-year are allowed by Government,
with a certain quantity of barley and straw, to
each chuppar khoneh, and they are expected to
keep seven or eight horses always in readiness.
The money is paid at Tehraun to Meerza Sheffee
Khan, the chuppargee bashee, who, after a long
delay, pays about one hundred and twenty to
mauns to each chuppargee, keeping the remainder
for himself. The number of Persian, Russian, and
British chuppars continually going this road* is
great, and consequently the poor beasts have
scarcely come in from one long journey than
they are saddled for another ; and it is not un
usual, on arriving at a station, to find all the
horses out. On the right hand, on leaving Sul
tanieh, is a place built by Fathy Ali Shah on
a small elevation, where he used to reside when
his army was encamped on these plains during
the summer.
For many miles after quitting Sultanieh, we
traversed over barren wastes, until, when about
half-way to Zenjon, we entered a well- watered
and fertile valley. The horses were again most
miserable; and it was barbarous work, pressing
the poor jaded beasts.
It was dark when we entered Zenjon, and I
could see but little of the place; though, from
the streets we passed through, and the outline
of the town against the sky, it appeared to be
of considerable extent. This place is considered
half-way between Tehraun and Tabreez. We
* See Appendix (F.)

376 PERSIAN HABIT
were delayed about twenty minutes, while the
horses were being prepared, and then we resumed
our journey. Passing through rows of bazars
dimly lighted at long intervals by naphtha lamps,
but in most places pitch-dark, we at length
emerged near one of the gates of the town,
which was not opened to us till after a quarter
of an hour's parley with the porter. The night
was dark and cold, and the road stony and un
even. We walked at a slow pace for some miles,
when I began to feel so cold and sleepy that I
was continually on the point of falling from my
horse, only saving myself by a violent effort and
a start. I cannot adequately describe the harass
ing effect of this feeling, during the night, on a
chuppar journey. The gholaums, from long habit,
sleep perfectly well, and manage to keep their
balance, swaying backwards and forwards without
falling or starting, and they have told me that
they always felt refreshed. Reza Beg, the man
who was now with me, slept both night and day,
for hours together, on horseback, when the cattle
were in a walk. It was lucky he could do so,
as he did not otherwise obtain a moment's sleep,
except on one afternoon, during the whole ride.
I could not sleep in the saddle ; but, the moment
we came to a station, I threw myself on the
ground, and, after ordering horses, slept soundly
for a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes, which
very much refreshed me.
To return to our journey : feeling in a state of
torpor, and my eyelids being still so heavy that

OF SLEEPING IN THE SADDLE. 377
when open I had no power to keep them so, I
awoke with another start, and determined, notwith
standing the dark night and the stony road, to gal
lop onwards, in order to rouse myself. I awakened
the Gholaum, who was fast asleep, and whose dim
outline I could just distinguish before me, making
a variety of low bows down to his saddle-bow, and
told him to spur on. He expostulated, and said it
was impossible, and that the cattle would come
down if we attempted to go faster ; however, I was
too tired to listen to reason, and riding forwards
ordered him to follow me. Away we went at a
smart canter; and some violent plunges, which my
horse made among the loose stones,* served to
keep me on the alert. But we had not gone
above forty yards, when, hearing a crash behind,
and pulling up, we saw the Gholaum and his
horse rolling on the ground. I called to him,
but he gave me no answer ; and, though the horse
rose, the man lay" motionless.
I shall not easily forget the feeling that shot
through me at this moment ; perhaps he had broken
his neck, and my rashness had been the cause of it !
I had scarcely dismounted, however, when, to my
great relief, he rose, and staggered up to his horse.
I found he was only stunned; and, after a few mi
nutes, he was perfectly recovered, and we proceeded
onwards : but we gave up all attempts at a gallop
until the moon rose, and my alarm had completely
banished drowsiness. We crossed during the night
three rivers ; and, having passed a small village
called Hireh, arrived at Baugh, situated among the

378 POST-ROADS IN PERSIA.
low hills over which we had latterly been travelling.
The dawn just appeared as we entered this village,
having been the whole night coming twenty-four
miles. This was very annoying to me, as I much
wished to get on : so I determined not to rest un
less we made better progress ; and, ordering out the
horses, we were again on the road half an hour
before sunrise.
The morning was very cold, and the wind blew
a perfect hurricane : the first part of the road, how
ever, though hilly, was smooth and good; and the
horses being rather better than usual, we got over
this stage more quickly, and reached Aukend,
twenty-four miles from Baugh, about eleven o'clock.
Just before we arrived there, however, our beasts
were completely knocked up ; the Gholaum's horse
refused to move, and the Suridgee was obliged to
dismount and walk, driving his own before him.
Not feeling tired, I determined to push on, and
proceeded to order the horses, when, to my utter
disappointment, there was not one in the stables ; all
having been lent in the morning to the villagers
to ride out to meet the Governor of the district,
who was on his way hither. There was no help for
it ; so we went to sleep, and waited patiently till their
return, which was not till near sunset, and then the
beasts were tired. They were saddled, however,
with all speed ; and, finding the road good, we made
the most of the remaining daylight.
About two fursucks from Miauneh we crossed
the Kizzil Ouzen by an old bridge, of which I
could only distinguish the outlines, and perceive

POISONOUS BUG. 379
that the pavement was in a wretched state of di
lapidation ; and we then commenced the ascent of
the Kaufilan Koh, the only mountain-pass on the
whole road. The ascent did not occupy much more
than three quarters of an hour, and the path was
good and broad. On descending, we crossed on the
other side the Miauneh river over a long bridge,
and shortly afterwards arrived at the town. There
is a much shorter way from Zenjon to Miauneh than
the one we had travelled, and which is generally
adopted by caravans ; but the chuppar khonehs are
not placed along the line, as in summer the villages
are deserted, the inhabitants leaving them, to escape
the necessity of supplying the numerous troops and
travellers who are always passing during that sea
son. The distance from Aukend to Miauneh is
twenty-four miles, and we arrived here at midnight.
This town is noted for a particular kind of bug,
the bite of which is exceedingly poisonous, and
sometimes fatal. I have heard the effect described
as being the same as that occasioned by a power
ful dose of laudanum ; the sufferer lying for days
together in a state of drowsiness, but not experienc
ing any pain. The native antidote is to wrap the
patient in the raw hide of a newly-slaughtered cow.
The horses having been quickly prepared, in a
quarter of an hour we were en route for Toorcoman
Chai'. The road lay over an uneven country ; the
night was dark, as the moon did not rise till near
morning; the horses were tired and bad, and our
progress consequently was slow. We arrived at
Toorcoman Chai, twenty-eight miles from our last

380 ARRIVAL AT TABREEZ.
station, about half an hour after sunrise. The vil
lage is a large one, situated on either side of a small
stream ; the fields were already green, and nume
rous parties of labourers were sallying forth with
their ploughs and buffaloes.
I did not remain here more than a quarter of an
hour, and we again continued our journey to Tick-
metash. Just after leaving Toorcoman Chai we met
a large caravan, conveying dead bodies to Meshed,
each mule bearing two coffins. Our horses were
very tolerable, but part of the road was very wet
from the melting of large patches of snow, which
were here scattered all over the country. Tick-
metash is twenty-four miles from Toorcoman Chai,
and we arrived a little after midday. We delayed
here as short a time as possible, and mounted for
Seid-Abad, the last station before Tabreez. The
horses were very good, and the road tolerable, lying
over a succession of small plains and intervening
hills. We reached Seid-Abad, twenty-four miles
from Tickmetash, a little before sunset, and were
obliged to remain there during the greater part of
the night, as the gates of Tabreez would be closed,
and there was no advantage in arriving there before
morning. At about half-past two, therefore, we
started with excellent horses, and galloped nearly
the whole way into Tabreez, sixteen miles, where
we arrived with the first dawn. A tremendous
wind was blowing, so that we could hardly sit on
our horses. Delighted to have finished my journey,
I hastened to the British Consulate, where I was
very kindly received by the Consul-General ; and, in

BAHMAN MEERZA. 381
a few hours, felt perfectly recovered from all my
fatigues. The first few days of my stay at Tabreez were oc
cupied in receiving and paying visits. On the 10th
of March I paid my respects to his Royal Highness
the Governor Bahman Meerza. We were met near
the entrance of the palace by the Beglerbeg, by whom
we were conducted through several square court
yards to a moderate-sized apartment, prettily paint
ed, where we found the Prince, seated in a large
arm-chair, behind a table covered with numerous
papers and materials for writing. In person he is
short, rather inclining to corpulency; but his face
is handsome, and a sparkling dark eye gives an
intelligent and dignified, and at the same time
pleasing, expression to his countenance. He was
richly habited in cashmere shawls, and a diamond-
hilted dagger glittered at his waist.
Chairs were placed for us, and the Prince kindly
inquired after his friend Mr. A., and hoped he had
experienced every attention from the authorities
while in Azerbijan ; he also asked several questions
regarding the climate and productions of Mauzunde
roon and Gheelaun, and appeared highly amused at
the idea of the Asterabadee selling his uncle for
eight kurrauns. After a little more conversation of
the same kind, we took leave.
The present Shah, and Caraman Meerza and Bah
man Meerza, are sons of Abbas Meerza by the same
mother. Caraman Meerza died miserably at Ta
breez in the autumn of 1841, through excessive
drinking. When he arrived as Governor some few

382 BAHMAN MEERZA.
years before, he was a fine, active, intelligent young
man ; but, giving way to his propensity for strong
liquors, he gradually lost every faculty he possessed,
and expired in an apoplectic fit. He was succeeded
in his government by Bahman Meerza, entirely
through the influence of his mother, much to the
annoyance of the Hadgee, who has a great aversion
to him, as indeed to all the members of the Royal
Family, whom he supposes it his interest to keep as
much as possible from places of power, lest gaining
too much influence they might interfere with his
own. The Shah's mother is, however, all-powerful
with her son, who regards her with great veneration,
and who insisted on her favourite, Bahman Meerza,
being appointed to the post. As a Governor, he is
generally liked by the people ; he is not cruel, though
firm in punishing offenders. He asks advice from
no one, but conducts the administration of affairs
entirely himself. His memory is extraordinary ; for,
when examining with his Meerzas the papers of
payments due to the troops, or other accounts, as is
his custom, he will sometimes astonish them by the
accuracy of his recollection and quickness in detect
ing any mistake : as, for instance, in calling over
the names of the men in a regiment who have to
receive pay,' he will suddenly stop them, saying, —
That man received his pay at such a time and for
such a reason ; if you refer to such and such a docu
ment, you will see an entry of it. They do so, and
generally find him correct.
He is excessively fond of show and display in
jewelry, and buys up all the precious stones he can

BAHMAN MEERZA. 383
obtain ; though, I believe, as much with a view to a
safe investment of his money as for the gratification
of his vanity. In a country like Persia, even a
Prince of his rank and near relationship to the
Shah might easily be placed in a position to render
flight necessary to his safety ; and, in such an emer
gency, jewelry would be the only property suffi
ciently portable to carry with him. His greatest
failing, and that which I have heard most complained
of, is his love of hoarding money, and his parsi
monious disposition. This is an unpardonable sin in
a Governor among the Persians ; for, though every
one of them has a strong affection for the precious
metal, they cannot endure it in a great person
holding a lucrative Government employment, whom,
on the contrary, they expect to be open-handed and
generous. This dislike is, however, more confined
* to the higher classes ; as, from the Prince's custom
of transacting all business himself, the lower orders
apply directly to him, thereby depriving the Khans
and great people about him of the bribes and pre
sents they would require, did affairs pass through
their hands. The poor man is benefited by this
plan, as he has only to pay once, namely, to the
Prince. There is no doubt, however, as to his good
government, which is mild and comparatively free
from extortion ; and, though remote districts fre
quently suffer from the rapacious and oppressive
conduct of the petty governors under him, yet on
the whole the people are happy and prosperous.
March 20th. — Since my arrival, the weather had
been snowy and unexpectedly severe, and I was con-

384 TABREEZ.
sequently much confined to the house. In the in
tervals of sunshine, however, I amused myself with
riding about the suburbs, or strolling through the
bazars, which always presented an enlivening and
busy scene.
Tabreez is situated on an elevated slope at the
eastern extremity of a wide plain, bounded on the
south-west by the waters of the lake Shahee, and on
the other sides surrounded with barren ranges of
red sandstone mountains. Near the town, and
along the foot of the hills, are several flourishing
villages ; and the land, being irrigated by numerous
rivulets, is rendered fertile : but the greater part of
the plain is devoid of water, and is of a barren and
sandy soil, so strongly impregnated with salt as to
be almost incapabla of cultivation.
The city is visible, on the Erzeroom road, from the
village of Shebister, a distance of thirty-six miles ;
and its extensive suburbs and gardens give it, from
thence, the appearance of a dark patch of forest, or
the shadow of a cloud.
Popular tradition reports that Zobeide (known to
all readers of the " Arabian Nights" as the favourite
wife of the Caliph Haroun-al-Reshid), suffering from
fever, recovered her health on this spot ; and, admir
ing the salubrity of the climate, founded, or most
likely only rebuilt, a city which she called Tabreez,
from the two Persian words — Teh fever, and Reek-
ten, to scatter or disperse. This was in the 165th
year of the Hegira, or about the middle of the
eighth century of the Christian era ; but its origin
and ancient name have been much disputed by dif-

ruins. 385
ferent authors. The greater part of Tabreez, how
ever, as it now stands, is of modern date, it having
been frequently destroyed and rebuilt; and even
within the last two centuries it has been twice laid
low by earthquakes. On this account, and from the
perishable nature of the materials used in build
ing in this country, and which have probably been
the same from the most remote periods, little of
interest and nothing of any great antiquity re
mains. The most interesting ruin is that of an old
mosque just outside the walls, near the Tehraun gate,
said by some to have been built by Jehan Shah,
one of the descendants of Tamerlane. It was de
stroyed by the last earthquake, but the remains
exhibit some, beautiful specimens of mosaic in lac
quered bricks, and also some very fine slabs of
what is called Tabreez marble, a petrescent depo
sit from a spring near Maraugha. Sir John Chardin
describes a similar building, " the inside of which
is inlayed, or rather pargeted, with transparent
marble, and all the outside variegated in mosaic
work," which he attributes to the Turks when
they held Azerbijan ; and adds, " The Persians ac
count the place defiled, because it was built by
the Turks, whose faith they abominate." He does
not note its situation ; if, however, this be the
mosque alluded to, its origin must have been for
gotten, as it is respected as much as any other
ruined religious edifice, care being taken that the
marble slabs are not removed : within its precincts
the people lay out dead bodies to dry. The same
c c

.386 ruins.
author mentions a mosque as " the fairest in all
Tauris, all the inside and some part of the out
side being gilt with gold. It was built in the
year 878 of the Hegira by a Persian king, call
ed Geoncha, or king of the world." The interpre
tation of the king's name shows what it is meant
for, or it would be difficult to recognize Jehan
Shah in the quaint spelling of "Geoncha." I
know, however, of no similar building at present,
the mosque now ascribed by the Persians to Jehan
Shah answering exactly to the description of that
which Sir John Chardin has attributed to the
Turks. Besides this is the citadel, which is supposed
to have been the mosque of Ali Shah, of which
nothing now remains but a large square tower,
built of brick, about one hundred feet high, the
most prominent object in Tabreez when approach
ing the city. It is now turned into an arsenal,
and was used as a place of execution, criminals
being thrown from the summit. A short time
ago, however, a woman, who was to be executed
for adultery, contrived to arrange her clothes in
such a manner, that the wind inflating them
broke the force of her fall, and wafted her un
hurt into a neighbouring garden, since which time
the practice has been discontinued.
The city is surrounded by a double wall and ditch,
both becoming more dilapidated every day, without
any attempt being made to repair them. It is four
miles in circumference, and is divided into eight
parishes, each of which has a gate of the same name.

SUPPLY OF WATER. 387
Without the walls are extensive suburbs, contain
ing perhaps as large a population as that within
them. Calculating from a census taken some ten
years ago, this is considered now to amount alto
gether to about one hundred and twenty thousand
souls. There are between fifty and sixty caravanse
rais, and eight or ten medressehs. The streets are
generally narrow, and always unpleasant ; in dry
weather, from the quantity of dust ; and in wet,
from the deep argillaceous soil. Water is scarce,
and the supply of the different parts of the town is
in the hands of private individuals, who at their
own expense have constructed aqueducts, from
springs at some distance, for the supply of the
town. They sell it for about two tomauns per
annum per " looleh," or stream of about the
thickness of a man's finger, which the buyer opens
from the main channel when he has occasion for
it. He may purchase as many " loolehs" as he
likes, and regulate the size of his pipe accordingly.
It is difficult, however, to say what is the average
payment for water, as it depends on a multitude
of circumstances, — the dryness of the season, the
quantity required, and the agreement with the
owner. The value has of late years been continu
ally increasing. Each buyer obtains his supply
from the side of the main stream, and, if payment
is in any case withheld, the water is cut off from
the whole street, much to the inconvenience and
annoyance of those who do pay ; though this sel
dom happens, as it is every man's interest not
only to be punctual himself, but also to see that
c c 2

388 BAZARS. — TRADE.
his neighbour is so. It is, however, a never-fail
ing source of dispute, each party endeavouring to
defraud the other as much as possible.
The bazars are about the same size as those
of Tehraun, but neither so well built nor so regular.
Adjoining them are two fine caravanserais ; one
constructed by Hadgi Seid Hussein, a merchant ;
and another by his son-in-law, Hadgee Sheik
Cossim ; a third is in process of building by the
former : there is also another not far distant, the
Fathy Allee Beg caravanserai, which is tenanted
by Georgian merchants, and usually called the
Georgian caravanserai. These are the best in the
city. Tabreez is the emporium from which Persia is
supplied with European goods. The returns are
made partly in specie, and partly in produce and
native manufactures.
From Isphahaun, tobacco and dyed calicoes are
sent. From Shirauz, tobacco and khennah.
From Yezd, dyed calicoes and other manufac
tures. From Tehraun, specie.
From Resht, silk.
From Mauzunderoon, rice and a little sugar.
From Kurdistan, gall-nuts and furs (fox and
otter). From Khorassan, carpets and pipesticks.
From Oroomia, tobacco.
From Kerman, shawls.
And also dried fruits from all parts of Persia.

TRADE. 389
Of these various articles, large quantities are
exported to Georgia, and also to Constantinople ;
a considerable portion being in transit for Europe.
The import trade in European goods has increased
considerably during late years ; but, there now be
ing a greater supply and more competition than
formerly, it is by no means so profitable, either
to the importer or native purchaser. It is diffi
cult to state accurately the amount of British goods
annually imported, as opinions and accounts vary
materially, — those from Trebizond making it about
30,000 packages, and those derived from the cus
tom-house and other sources at Tabreez only giving
about half that number. As there is no reason,
however, to doubt the accuracy of the statement
from Trebizond, where the number of packages
brought by each vessel for Persia is carefully
noted, and where no one has any object in giving
a false account, I should be inclined to give it
more credit than that from Tabreez, where the
custom-house officers, and almost every source from
whence the information is obtained, are interested
in lessening the apparent amount. The customs
are farmed, and, did the grand customer allow the
amount of goods passing through to appear such
as to leave him a large profit, he would be out
bidden by a competitor the following year, and
therefore takes care to make out his returns in
such a manner as to show little or no balance
in his favour. Some portion of the packages for
warded to Persia from Trebizond certainly never
reach Tabreez, but are consumed at Khoi, and

390 TRADE
perhaps smuggled into Georgia, but by no means
a sufficient quantity to account for a deficit of
one-half. Besides British manufactures, a small
quantity of German goods are included in this
number of packages, chiefly broadcloth, English
cloth being too expensive ; also some tea, sugar,
glass, hardware, and earthenware.
In proportion as the trade in British goods has
increased, that in native manufactures has fallen
off. Formerly a large quantity of prints were manu
factured in the vicinity of Tabreez and other parts
of Persia, the designs being executed both on cloth
of the country and English calicoes brought for
the purpose ; but, nearly all these designs having
been imitated in England, the Persians can now
get a cheaper article than they can make them
selves. The native prints and dyed calicoes, how
ever, continue to be manufactured, in a more li
mited quantity, for the supply of the Georgian
market, where the importation of British goods
is strictly prohibited by the Russian Government.
The dyed native calico from Isphahaun and Yezd
is more durable, though dearer, than the English
manufacture. There are now established at Ta
breez three Greek commercial houses, and they
will, ere long, be probably followed by others.
They are gradually driving the Persian merchant
from the trade, as he, purchasing his goods at
Constantinople, finds it difficult to compete with
those who import directly from England the
choicest assortments bought by their partners in
Manchester on the most favourable terms in every

VALUE OF LAND. 391
respect. The Georgians also, who formerly im
ported a large quantity of goods from Germany,
have been obliged to retire, in consequence of
their heavy losses; and their business does not
probably now exceed five hundred packages an
nually: thus it is expected that the Greeks will
soon monopolise the whole trade.
Owing to its commerce, and the extreme healthi
ness of the climate, Tabreez is now the most flou
rishing town in Persia, and is yearly increasing in
size. The value of land for building within the
walls, which was formerly at 70 tomauns per maun
(or measure of 1250 square yards), has risen to
100 tomauns. That outside for gardens, where there
is water, sells for from 8 to 10 tomauns near the
walls, where it is dearest ; and the ground for build
ing costs from 4 tomauns to 15 kerrauns, according
to its situation.
The suburbs and gardens extend some miles
round the city; and in the spring, the latter, ap
pearing like one sheet of blossoms, have a most
refreshing appearance. They produce almonds,
apricots, apples, pears, peaches, grapes, and some
other fruits.
For two years past, the almond crops have failed ;
and this year the trees were in full blossom, when
the cold and severe weather destroyed them, to the
great misery and disappointment of many unfortu
nate families, whose sole dependence for support is
on the crop. It is considered a good investment of
money at Tabreez to buy a garden, into which the
purchaser sends gardeners in the spring to prune

392 norooz.
the vines and other trees, and put the place in
order ; and then sells the expected produce for a
certain sum, leaving the trouble of gathering and
the chance of failure to the buyer. In general, it
answers well for both parties ; the owner getting a
high per-centage for the capital invested in it, and
the buyer making a good profit on the fruit.
March 19th. — The feast of Norooz was now at
hand : the bazars were becoming deserted ; already
several shops were closed, and every one was pre
paring to enjoy the holiday. Norooz is from two
Persian words, "noo," and " rooz," (new day) ; and the
feast is held on the 21st of March, which the Per
sians consider their new-year's day. It is a festival
of a date long prior to the Mohamedan era ; and is
said to have originated from the day that Jemsheed
entered Persepolis. The Persians believe that Jem
sheed was one of eighty persons who were with
Noah in the ark.
All salaries are paid, and accounts dated from
the Norooz. It is an universal feast ; and during a
week or ten days the bazars are closed, and the
time is spent in merriment and visiting. At this
season the Governors of the different provinces are
either removed or confirmed in their situations ; and
the numerous presents which are sent to the Shah
to secure favour, form one of the most productive
branches of his revenue. Fraser estimates it at
1,200,000 tomauns. The King sends his servants
with khalaats, or dresses of honour, to most of the
khans about the court, who, in return, handsomely
reward the bearers. Similar gifts, shawls, or sweet-

DESCRIPTION OF THE CEREMONY. 393
meats, are given by the different Governors to their
dependants, and also by masters to their servants.
A full description of the usages on this occasion is
to be found in Mr. Morier's " Travels in Persia in
1808 and 1809."
On the morning of the 21st, discharges of can
non and the beating of drums announced the com
mencement of the festival. The Prince, as is cus
tomary, held a grand audience, at which all the
khans, moollahs, meerzas, and merchants were pre
sent, to pay their respects and wish him a fortunate
new year.
Having intimated to the Beglerbeg of Tabreez,
Mehmet Khan, our desire to see the ceremony with
out attracting the attention of the Prince, he pro
cured us places in a small upper room adjoining the
Audience Hall, which looked down on the court
below. A regiment of soldiers, and a tolerable band,
composed chiefly of Russian deserters, were present ;
and the whole assembly was ranged in order, ac
cording to their respective ranks, and dressed in
their gayest apparel. As soon as the Prince was
seated, the chief poet stepped forward and recited
some verses, expressive of the prosperity of the
province under his government, and compliment
ing him in every possible way. The Prince inti
mated his admiration and approval of the compo
sition, and, ordering the speaker to approach, filled
his hands with small silver coins made for the occa
sion. Most of the principal people then paid their
respects, one after another, and received the same
mark of favour.

394 LEAVE PERSIA.
As this ceremony would last several hours, and
we had to prepare to make our own visit, we de
parted, and waited till about three o'clock in the
afternoon, when it was announced that the Prince
was ready to receive us. He was seated in state in
a large arm-chair, and was most richly clothed in
shawls and jewels. On his arms he wore bazu-
bunds, or armlets, set with magnificent emeralds;
and at his waist a splendidly jewelled khaujar, or
carved dagger, from which hung a tassel of fine
pearls. The visit was very ceremonious, and lasted
only a few minutes. Some compliments were ex
changed; and Bahman Meerza, while hoping that
the existing friendship between England and Persia
might never be interrupted, turned to the Consul-
General, and remarked, that the former power had
shown its great wisdom in appointing at Tabreez
such a talented and fit person as himself. As his
Highness appeared much fatigued with his exer-
tions, we soon took our leave.
The next six days were occupied in receiving and
paying visits ; which latter ceremony was rendered
particularly unpleasant by the inclemency of the
weather. On the 13th of April a gholaum arrived from Teh
raun on his way to Erzeroom, and, having seen all
that was worth seeing, and wishing soon to reach
the latter place, I determined to accompany him ;
and, bidding adieu to my kind friends, quitted Per
sia, thinking it a very pleasant and interesting coun
try for a six months' tour, but by no means suf
ficiently agreeable for me to adopt it for a prolonged

CONCLUSION. 395
residence. I reached Erzeroom in safety, offering
up my heartfelt thanks to a gracious Providence
for his never-failing care and protection throughout
a journey in which I encountered much inconve
nience, and occasionally some danger.

APPENDIX.

(A.)
CALCULATION OF THE PROBABLE ANNUAL PRODUCE
AND GROSS VALUE OF THE STURGEON FISHERY AT
THE MOUTH OF THE SEFEED-ROOD.
With regard to the total annual produce of this fishery,
the number of fish taken, which is stated at 125,000, I
consider to be tolerably correct, at least as far as can be
expected where no accounts are kept; for, making a
rough calculation on what we were informed were the
average numbers taken daily at different times of the
season, it comes out thus : —

Mean. Days.

Fish.

Feb. from 100

to 800 per day 400 for 28

11,200

March „ 800

„ 2000 „ 1400 „ 31 .

- . 43,400

April „ 3500

„ 3800 „ 3650 „ 15

54,750

Remainder of \ .
the year j

„ 8 „ 6 „ 291 =

1746

Deduct consumed by fishermen

746 1,000

110,350

giving a difference of 15,000, according as the season may
be good or bad.

398 APPENDIX.
Again: we were told that seven or eight ships were
loaded annually: that one of these had three masts, and
carried about forty thousand fish, besides twenty or thirty
barrels of caviare ; but that the rest were smaller, with
two masts, and took only about twelve thousand a-piece :
thus :— Fish.
1 vessel carries 40,000
7 vessels 12,000 each 84,000

8 124,000

which gives, as nearly as possible, the original number;
and, supposing that sometimes there were only six of the
smaller vessels, it would come to something less than two
thousand of the above calculation of 1 10,350.
It is impossible to say what may be the value of this
fishery to the lessee, as I am totally ignorant of the ex
penses incurred : an approximate guess may, however, be
formed of its gross amount.
There is difficulty in ascertaining the value of the salt
fish, as they are sold by weight, and no accounts of it are
kept. Roughly calculating, however, by the burden of the
vessels employed, it may be something near the following.
Tons. Poots.
7 ships of 3,000 poots (50) = 21,000
1 ship 10,000 „ (166) = 10,000
31,000

APPENDIX. 399
Taking the average price : Poots. Tns.
31,000 @ 4 kns. = 12,400
The value of the caviare
may be more correctly ascer
tained : the annual quantity
is from 300 to 350 casks,
say 325 casks, @ 40 poots = 13,000 @ 2 tns. = 26,000
The isinglass is 250 @ 32 = 8,000
Total gross value of the produce of the) 46,400
fishery for one year, before the expenses are f « 23 200
deducted. \ '

In English weight* the quantity amounts to
lbs. s. d.
Fish 1,108,250 and sells at Astrachan for 1£ per lb.
Caviare 464,750 „ „ 6| „
Isinglass 8,937 „ „ 8 11 „
* The Russian Poot or Pood is calculated at 35| lbs. English.

400 APPENDIX.

160

(B.)
DETAILED ACCOUNT OF THE REVENUE OF THE TOWN
OF BORFROOSH. Tns.
Idjarrah-i-Durrogha, or Rent of the Office of Chief | .Qr.
of Police . . )
Taxes on the shops of makers of the iron heels of ,
slippers . . . . '
Butchers' shops .... 350
Shops of poultry, fish, etc. . . 70
Corn-dealers . . . .60
Bakers . . . .100
A small trade carried on by Jews, of l
whom there are sixty or seventy /• , .q
families ..."
Irregular taxes on various shops, as of grocers, sel
lers of cotton manufactures, shoemakers, sad-
lers, and others, levied according to the state
of the trade or the wealth of the proprietor

485

1,735

APPENDIX. 401

(C.)

NAMES OF THE DIFFERENT TRIBES OF WHICH
BRANCHES HAVE SETTLED IN MAUZUNDEROON.
Gerailee \ originally from / Live near Nica : under their
Osanloo / Toorkestaun, \ chiefs Seffee Kooly Khan and
Kellidgelee l Khorassaun, j Ali Khan. The three latter
Imraunloo J and Azerbijan. \ live in or around Saree.
Modaunloo ) ^ , f Inhabiting Saree and the fol-
Iaumbegloo ' 1 lowing villages in its vicinity :
Near Saree.
Mooshabad
Roodpesht Loreem Footerm
Koord-i-Koolla
Issi Kundook.
Nearer Ferrabad.
Pembeh Choolla
Isfundeen
HemeedabadZeid
Aumil Aukhun
Khodjavend, from Ardelan and \ Dwelling iu Tennacorben,
Loristan \ Kellauristauk and Coo-
Abdul malekee „ near Shirauz J joor. D D

402 APPENDIX.
Belooche from Beloochistan ; dwelling in Saree.
Talish now only about two hundred men; dwelling
near Ashreff under their chief Khan, Baba
Khan.
Affghaun brought originally from near Caubul by Nadir
shah: they now occupy the villages of
Karatuppeh and Nodehhak, and some few
reside at Saree.
Of these the Modaunloo is the largest, and contributes
1000 horse. The Khodjavend and Abdul malekee are the
next in consequence. All the foreign tribes are exempt
from taxation in consideration of military service.

(D.)
DIVISIONS OF THE KUDJAR TRIBE.
YOKARIBASH. ASHAGABASH.
Devenloo Kavanloo
Khazinehdonloo Asdinloo
Seponloo Ziaudloo
Kerloo Shaumbeyautloo
Koohnaloo Tashloo
Kaiyahloo. Caramansanloo.

APPENDIX.

403

(E.)

ROADS FROM ASTRABAD TO TEHRAUN.

POST STATIONS ON THE CHUPPAR ROAD.

Fursucks

From Astrabad to Koord muhuleh.

. 4

)) 5

, Chuppar Kendeh

4

55 5

, Ashreff

. 7

55 )

, Saree

8

55 )

, Shirghior

. 7

55 S

, Zeeraub

4

55 5

, Surkurabad

. 5

)) 5

, Feroozkoo

4

55 5

, Serbandon

. 5

55 5

, Asellek

10

55 '

, Tehraun

. 4
62
Or miles 248

Tolerable horses are to be had all the way, but it gene
rally takes five days to accomplish the journey, as it is
impossible to travel at night through the jungle.

D D 2

404 APPENDIX.
The roads generally adopted by caravans are as follows:

THE MEGASSEE ROAD,

To Miaunderreh
„ Megassee
„ Chehardeh .
„ Ayanoo
„ Toodervah
„ Auhoowan
„ Semnoon
„ Lasghird .
„ Dehnummuck
„ Kishlaugh
„ Eywanekaif .
„ Kabout Goombuz
„ Tehraun

Fursucks.
. 4 n
. 5
3 7i
5
. 6 6*
• 6J6
. 5 6 6

70

Or miles 280

THE SANDOOK ROAD.

To Seid Meiran 
,, Jehan Nemor ....
„ Chehardeh 
The remainder as the Megassee road.

Fursucks. 1
. 5 5

If wishing to go to Damghaun by either of these two
roads, turn off at Chehardeh Fursucks.
To Damghaun . . . . .5
„ Koosha ...... 6
„ Ayanoo . . . . . ' . 7
And the rest as the road by Megassee.

APPENDIX. 405
THE KOUSLOOK ROAD. Fursucks.
To Kouslook  5
„ Shahkoo ...... 3
„ Tash  3
„ Bostam ....... 5
„ Dehmollah ..... 7
„ Mehmandoost  6
,, Damghaun ..... 3
„ Koosha ...... 6
„ Ayanoo ...... 7
And the rest as the Megassee road.
The Megassee road is said to be the best, and was the
road we adopted in going to Tehraun. In giving the
different stations on the caravan roads, I have mentioned
those generally adopted by muleteers ; but, as each has his
favourite halting-place, very often in describing the same
road two muleteers will mention nearly all the stations
differently.

406 APPENDIX.

(F.)
POST ROADS IN PERSIA.
FROM TEHRAUN TO RESHT.

555>

Fursucks.

To Keredge ...... 6
„ Sefer Khodjeh  9
„ Casveen  7
Kharsan  8
Menzil  6
Imaumzadeh Haushim . . . . 7
Resht  9

52

Or miles 208

The horses from Casveen to Resht are generally pretty

good.

The wages of each chuppargee, or postmaster, from
Casveen to Resht is 120 tomauns per annum. In going to
Resht from Tabreez, the road is that to Tehraun as far as
Casveen, and then as above noted.

APPENDIX.

407

POST STATIONS FROM TEHRAUN TO TABREEZ.

KeredgeSefer Khodjeh
Casveen Siah Dahen
KhorrumderrehSultanieh
Zenjon
BaughAukend Miauneh
Turcoman- chai
Tickmetash Seidabad
Tabreez .

Fursucks. . 69
. 7
5
. 86
. 66
. 6
6
. 6 7
. 6
4

88

Or miles 352

The horses are in general very bad as far as Miauneh,
after which they become better.
Each chuppargee along this road receives, or ought to
receive, 200 tomauns salary, together with 30 khalwars of
straw, 15 khalwars of barley, and 10 of wheat annually.

408

APPENDIX.

POST STATIONS FROM TABREEZ TO ERZEROOM.

Persia.*

Fursucks.

Miles.

Chebister

8

@ ¦

1 miles

32

Tasuche

. 6

55

55

24

Khoi .

8

55

55

32

Zorawabad

. 8

5)

55

32

Kara-aineh

6

55

55

24

Awajik

. 6

55

S5

24

Turkey.f

Hours.

Diadin
. 12
@ :
5 miles
36
Kara klissiah .
12
!5
55
36
Mollah Suleiman
. 7
55
55
21
Khorassaun
15
55
55
45
Hassan Kaleh
. 8
55
55
24
Erzeroom
6
55
55
18
348
In Persia the chuppar khonehs are Government pro
perty, and an order for horses is all that is required.
In summer and autumn this journey can be accomplished
in four days. In winter and spring five or six days, some
times eight or ten, are necessary.
* From Chebister to Awajik horses in general good.
t From Diadin to Mollah Suleiman horses very bad. From Khoras
saun to Erzeroom horses very good.
APPENDIX.

409

POST STATIONS FROM TEHRAUN TO SHIRAUZ,

Fursucks

Kennarghird

(village)

6

Sadrawbad

(caravanserai)

. 10

Koom

(city) . . .

6

Porsangoom

(caravanserai) ,

. 4

Sensen

55

8

Cashan

(city) .

. 6

Kohrood

(village)

8

Soh

55 ...

. 6

Moorchehar

55 ¦ •

6

Isphahaun

(city)

. 9

Meyhiar

(caravanserai)

8

Goomishehr

(city)

. 5

Maksood Beg

(village)

4

Yezdikhaust

55

. 6

Deh Ghirdoo

(caravanserai)

8

Khoshkisir

55 •

. 6

Rezaabad

(village)

8

Moyin

55

. 6

Fathabad

55 • •

6

Shirauz

(city) . .

. 9
135

Mil

es 540

The above is the summer road ; the winter road branches
off from Yezdikhaust, 92 fursucks from Tehraun.

410

APPENDIX.

From Tehraun .
To Shooligistaun
„ Surmeh
„ Deh-hibid
„ Meshed-i-Moorghaut
„ Seidon .
„ Shirauz

Fursucks.
. 92 6
. 8
10 6 8
. 10

140

Miles 560

The horses on this road are generally bad.
to five are kept at each station.

From two

POST STATIONS FROM TEHRAUN TO MESHED.*

Kabout-i-Goombuz

Fursucks
. 6

Eywanikaif .
Kishlaugh ....
Dehnummuck .

6
. 5 6

Lasghird ....
Semnoon ....

• 6J 6j

Aughoorran ....
Koosha .

. 6 6

Damghaun
Dehmollah

. 6
.6

Shahrood ....

. 6

Meyaumeh

14

Miaundesht ....

. 6

* At each chuppar khoneh there arc between two and four horses.
They are in general miserable animals.

APPENDIX.

411

AbbasabadMesinoon* .
Mehr Subziwar
Zehrferhaunee Nishabood .
Kadamghaun SherifFabad .
Meshed .

Fursucks.

6

. 7

5

. 8

6

. 8

6

. 6

6

144

Miles 576

POST STATIONS FROM TEHRAUN TO KIRMAUN.f Fursucks.

To Kennarghird

6

„ Sadrawbad ....

• io

„ Koom ....

. . 6

„ Porsangoom ....

. 4

„ Sensen ....

8

„ Cashan ....

. 6

„ Boozabad ....

5

„ Bawd .....

. 5

„ Maabad ....

6

„ Moghoreh ....

. 5

„ Caravanserai Natenz .

5

„ Ardestaun ....

. 3

„ Nehistaun

7

„ Noi'n 

. 5

„ Nogoombud

6

* From Mesinoon there are five or six horses at each station, usually
serviceable beasts.
+ From three to four horses at each station. After Cashan Usually
very bad. The pay of each chuppargee on this road is between 100 and
120 tomauns per annum.

412

APPENDIX

Pc

Agdor

55

Meybid

55

Yezd .

55

Sir-yezd

55

Zein-udeen .

55

Kirmanshaw

55

Shems

55

Anor

55

Beyauz

55

Keshkoo

55

Rustamabad .

55

Kabouter Khan .

55

Abdoolabad

55

Robad

55

Baughain

55

Kirmaun .

Fursucks

8.
9
10 6 5
67 56 5 6
56
47

191

Miles 748

THE END.

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