*-^.r

i fta- the. founding Jif a College m i Its Ce 'ony || jjl

'YALIE«¥]MK¥lE]^Siiir¥- ° iLiiiBi^^iFrr •

V<^WV-M^V.VSA).^>>~..~l.tCT^^

From the
COLLECTION OF OXFORD BOOKS
made by
FALCONER MADAN
Bodley's Librarian

"Inbtnixt"

[August 1881.

OCIETY

Nov II.
M. Jonrnpg info 6lnglflnil
In -the Year M.D.XCVIII. By
PAUL HENTZNER.

\si\x, ® gxioks, are the flollieit besstla ofthe 'Etmijle; bmminij
l;tmp3 to be belli itt the hani."
Richard Aungervyle.

Coyiunercial Printips CoJiifiiMiy, lldiflMtrgh,

Members of the Society are requested to communicate
any Bibliographical Curiosities they rnay possess to the
Hon. Secretary, E. M. Goldsmid, 30 Castle Terrace,
Edinburgh, for Publication..

Notice. — The Pagination bf the Society's Publications will be a
double one, the pages of each work reprinted wiU be sepa
rately numbered at the top, whilst each yearly series will be
consecutively numbered at the bottom^ Members can thus
bind the works as they may pl'efer.

V TJrVEJVIBE.

)J * *

In the Year Mdxcviii.

BY

PAUL HENTZNER
%m,^ a Jplranslatmtt of ^art of Kis ^timrarg.

EDITED BY

HORACE W ALP OLE.

"ioit, (!) Sooks, mt Vxe ijoUitn icssda of the lempk; tammg lamirs lo it t'atx
helii in the hsnJi." Richard Aungervyle.

PRIVATELY PRINTED FOR THE AUNGERVYLE SOCIETY,
EDINBURGH. 1881.

Impression Limited to i§o Copies, of which this is No...

INTRODUCTION.

fAUL HENTZNER'S "Itinerarium Germaniae, Galliae,
Angliae, et Italiae," was first published at Nuremberg
in 1612. It is a small 4to, and is of the greatest rarity
in England: that it was so even in the middle of the last
century, is proved by Horace Walpole's statement in his
Advertisement, that there were only four or five copies then
in this country. A copy in the Stevens' sale sold for £2> los
It was reprinted at Breslau in 1617, 4to; and Nuremberg in
1618 and 1629, both Svo — the latter edition being considerably
augmented, though not by any means improved. A copy of
the 1629 edition appears in the Hibbert Catalogue: it sold
for ;^3, IS. The last edition was that of Leipzig, 1661, Svo.
Struck with the picture which it presented of the Court
of Queen Elizabeth, Horace Walpole employed Richard
Bentley, son of the doctor, to translate that part which relates
to England. Only two hundred and twenty copies of this
translation were printed at Strawberry Hill in 1757, Svo, and
27

aunger&sle SocUts Reprints.

it is consequently but rarely that a copy occurs for sale, and
then it invariably fetches a high price, even when it does not
happen to contain so important an autograph as that of
David Garrick, at whose sale, in 1779, it brought £2, 3s. — a
large price for a book in those days, when Dibdin had not
yet turned the bibliophiles of England into so many biblio
maniacs. In 1797, Jeffrey published an Svo edition of Bentley's trans
lation, with portraits and views, supplemented with Sir Robert
Naunton's Fragmenta Regalia, which, though very inaccurate,
so(Dn became scarce and dear.
Ten years later, in 1807, T. E. Williams printed, at his
private press, an edition of fifty copies, 4to.
The author of the Itinerarium, Paul Hentzner, was tutor
to a young German nobleman, and, with his pupil, visited
Germany, England, France, and Italy. The circumstances
and customs which the author records will be found interest
ing to the English antiquarian, whilst even the historian may
find some crumbs of information worthy of being picked up.
" The author seems to have had that laborious and indis
criminate passion for seeing which is remarked in his country
men; and, as his translator observed, enjoyed as much the
doubtful head of a more doubtful saint in pickle, as any upon
the shoulders of the best Grecian statue. Fortunately, so
memorable a personage as Queen Elizabeth happened to fall
under his notice. Ten years later, he would have been as
accurate in painting Anne of Denmark ! "
28

Introtructton*

With the above quotation from Horace Walpole's Adver
tisement to his edition, we close our Introduction, merely
observing that if we have passed over the remainder of the
Advertisement in silence, it is because readers in these days
would care little for ill-natured remarks on Monsieur de
Bassompierre's orthography of English names, with which
the Earl of Orford thought fit to preface Hentzner's really
curious and striking narration.
E. M. G.
W. F. F.

29

HENTZNER'S TRAVELS.

tWT E arrived at Rye, a small English Seaport. Here, as soon as
^^^ we came on shore, we gave in our names to the Notary of
the place, but not till he had demanded our business; and being
answered, that we had none but to see England, we were conducted
to an inn, where we were very well entertained, as one generally is
in this country.
We took post horses for London. It is surprising how swiftly they
run, their bridles are very light, and their saddles, little more than a
span over.
Flimwell, a village; here we returned our first horses, and
mounted fresh ones.
We passed through Tunbridge, another village.
Chepsted, another village; here for a second time we changed
horses. London, the head and metropolis of England; called by Tacitus,
LoNDiNiUMj by Ptolomey, Longidinium; by Ammianus Marcellinus,
LuNDiNiUM; by foreigners, Londra and Londres; is the seat of
the British Empire, and the chamber of the English kings. This
most ancient City is in the county of Middlesex, the fruitfullest and
wholsomest soil in England. It is built upon the River Thames.,
31

^unflerbglc ^ocirtg Ecprints.

60 miles from the sea, and was originally founded, as all historians
agree, by Brutus, who coming from Greece into Italy, thence into
Africa, next into France, and last into Britain, chose this situation,
for the convenience of the river, calling it Troja nova, which name
was afterwards corrupted into Trinovant. But when Lud, the
brother of CassiMlan or Cassevelan, who wared against Julius Caesar,
as he himself mentions, lib. v. de Bell. Gall, came to the crown, he
encompassed it with very strong walls, and towers very artfully con
structed, and from his own name called it Caier Lud, i.e. Lud's city.
This name was corrupted into that of Caerlunda, and again in time,
by change of language, into Lundres. Lud, when he died, was
buried in this town, near that Gate which is yet called in Welch, For
Lud, in Saxon, Ludesgate.
The famous River Thames owes part of its stream, as well as of
its appellation, to the Isis, rising a little above Winchelcomb, and
being increased with several rivulets, unites both its waters and its
name to the Thame, on the other side of Oxford; thence after passing
by London, and being of the utmost utility, from its greatness and
navigation, it opens into a vast arm of the sea, from whence the tide,
according to Gemma Frissius, flows and ebbs to the distance of 80
miles, twice in twenty-five hours, and according to Folydore Virgil,
above 60 miles, twice in twenty-four hours.
This City being very large of itself, has very extensive Suburbs,
and a Fort called the Tower, of beautiful structure. It is magnifi
cently ornamented with public buildings and churches, of which
there are above 120 Parochial. On the south is a Bridge of stone,
800 feet in length, of wonderful work; it is supported upon 20 Piers
of square stone, 60 feet high, and 30 broad, joined by Arches of
about 20 feet diameter. The whole is covered on each side with
houses, so disposed as to have the appearance of a continued street,
not at all of a bridge.
Upon this is built a Tower, on whose top the heads of such as have
32

^ Sourneg into lEnglanlJ.

been executed for High Treason, are placed upon iron spikes. We
counted above 30.
Faulus Jovius, in his description of the most remarkable Towns in
England, says, all are obscured by London, which, in the opinion of
many, is Caesar's city of the Trinobantes, the capital of all Britain,
famous for the commerce of many nations; its houses are elegantly
built, its churches fine, its towns strong, and its riches and abundance
surprizing. The wealth of the world is wafted to it by the Thames,
swelled by the tide and navigable to merchant's ships through a safe
and deep channel for 60 miles from its mouth to the city. Its banks
are everywhere beautified with fine country seats, woods, and farms ;
below, is the Royal Palace of Greenwich; above, that of Richmond;
and between both, on the west of London, rise the noble buildings of
Westminster, most remarkable for the Courts of Justice, the Parlia
ment, and St Feter's Church, enriched with the Royal Tombs. At
the distance of 20 miles from London, is the Castle of Windsor, a
most dehghtful retreat of the Kings of England, as well as famous
for several of their Tombs, and for the ceremonial of the Order of the
Garter. This river abounds in swans, swimming in flocks; the sight
of them and their noise is vastly agreeable to the Fleets that meet
them in their course. It is joined to the City by a bridge of stone,
wonderfully built; is never encreased by any rains, rising only with
the tide, and is everywhere spread with nets for the taking of salmon
and shad. Thus far Paulus Jovius.
Folydore Virgil affirms, that London has continued to be a royal
city, and the capital of the kingdom, crowded with its own inhabi
tants and foreigners, abounding in riches, and famous for its great
trade, from the time of King Archeninus, or Erchenvinus. Here the
Kings are crowned, and solemnly inaugurated, and the Council of the
nation or Parliament is held. The Government of the City is lodged
by ancient grant of the Kings of Britain, in twenty-four Aldermen,
that is seniors. These annually elect out of their own body a Mayor,
33

IO ^ungcr&sle .Soctetg Ecprints,

and two Sheriffs, who determine causes according to municipal laws.
It has always had, as indeed Britain in general, a great number of
men of learning, much distinguished for their writings. The walls
are pierced with six gates, which, as they were rebuilt, acquired new
names. Two look eastward :
(i) Ludgate, the oldest, so called from King Lud, whose name is
yet to be seen, cut into the stone over the arch on one side ; though
others iraagine it rather to have been Fludgate, from a stream over
which it stands, like the Porta Fluentana at Rome. It has been
lately repaired by Queen Elizabeth, whose statue is placed on the
opposite side ; and
(2) Newgate, the best edifice of any: so called from being newly
built, whereas before it was named Chamberlain Gate. It is the
public Prison.
On the north are four :
(i) Aldersgate, as some think, from Alder Trees; as others,
from Aldricius, a Saxon.
(2) Criplegate, from an Hospital for the lame.
(3) Moorgate, from a neighbouring morass, now converted into
a field, first opened by *Francetius the Mayor, a.d. 1414.
(4) And BisHOPSGATE, from some bishop. This the German
merchants of the Hans Society were obliged by compact to keep in
repair, and in times of danger to defend. They were in possession
of a key, to open or shut it, so that upon occasion they could come
in, or go out, by night or by day.
There is only one gate to the east :
Aldgate, that is Oldgate, from its antiquity ; though others think
it to have been named Elbegate.
Several people believe there were formerly two gates (besides that
to the bridge) towards the Thames.

* His name was Sir Thomas Falconer.
34

^ Sourneg into lEnglanli. n
(i) Billingsgate, now a cothon, or artificial Port, for the recep
tion of ships.
(2) DouRGATE, vulgo Dowgate i.e. Water-gate.
The Cathedral of St Paul was founded by Ethelbert, King of
the Saxons, and being from tirae to time re-edified, encreased to
vastness and magnificence, and in revenue so much, that it affords a
plentiful support to a Bishop, Dean, Precentor, Treasurer, four Arch-
Deacons, twenty-nine Prebendaries, and many others. The roof of
this Church, as of most others in England, with the adjoining steeple,
is covered with lead.
On the other side of the choir is the marble tomb of Nicholas
Bacon, with his wife. Not far from this is a magnificent monument,
ornamented with pyramids of marble and alabaster, with this inscrip
tion : — ^acreli ia Wit Jttemors ai
Sir Christopher Hatton, son of William, grandson of
John, one ofthe most ancient family ofthe Hattons ; one of
the fifty Gentlemen Pensioners to Her Majesty Queen Eliza
beth ; Gentleman of the Privy-Chamber; Captain of the
Guards; one of the Privy-Council, and High Chancellor of
England, and of the University of Oxford: Who to the great
grief of his Sovereign, and of all good men, ended his life
religiously, after having lived unmarried io the age of ^1, at
his house in Holbourn, on the 20th of November, a.d. 1591.
William Hatton, Knight, his nephew hy the sister's side,
a7id by adoption his son and heir, most sorrowfully raised this
Tomb, a mark of his duty.
On the left hand is the marble monument of William Herbert,
Earl of Pembroke, and his lady ; and near it, that of Pohn, Duke of
Lancaster, with this inscription : — 35

12 ^ungerfagle .Sacietg i^ejirtnts.

^crc §Ic£^g in the '^oxb, Jxrkn rrf Olattt,
so called from the city of the same name in Flanders, where he
was born, fourth son ^Edward III., King of England, and
created by his father. Earl of Richmond. He was thrice
married: first to Blanch, daughter and heiress of Henry,
Duke of Lancaster. By her he received an immense in
heritance, and became not only Duke of Lancaster, but Earl
OF Leicester, Lincoln, and Derby, of whose race are
descended many Emperors, Kings, Princes, and Nobles. His
second wife was Constance, who is here buried, daughter and
heiress of Peter, King of Castile and Leon. She brought
him one only daughter, Catherine, of whom, by Henry are
descended the Kings of Spain. His third wife was Catherine,
of a Knighf s family , a woman of great beauty, by whom he had
a numerous progeny ; from which is descended, by tlie mother's
side, Henry VIL, the most prudent King of England, by
whose most happy marriage with Elizabeth, daughter of
Edward IV., of the line of York, the two royal lines of
Lancaster and York are united, to the most desired tratiquillity
of England. The most illustrious Prince John, surnamed
Plantagenet, King of Castile and Leon, Duke of Lan
caster, Earl of Richmond, Leicester, and Derby,
Lieutenant of Aqvn km, High-Stewart <?/" England, died in
the 2ist year of Richard II., a.d. 1398.
A little farther, almost at the entrance of the Choir, in a certain
recess, are two small stone chests, one of which is thus inscribed : —
^cre Ikff §eba, lung of the (B&si §&xans, ivka bias
cottbeftti to th£ Jfiiith hv §i drkentoalli, ^ishop oi
'ganlon. ^,'§. 677.
36

^ Sourneg into (i^nglantr. 13
On the other :
^crc lus (Hihtlvelb, prtg of th£ ^nglea, .Son af
^ittg Cbgaj:; on tohom §t 5tttt0tan is saib to habe
bcttottncei bcngeance, on hi« CfCoronatioit-gaB, in the
foUotoing §KorJ0: —
"In aa imtch, as thxia hast aspiui) to thf 'Ehtom ig
"thf 5f3th of thg grxjthfr, asainat tohos* girati the
" (iitfllish, aloitB ioith thg infammta Jttcthfr, conspixzh ;
" the (^toxrrl) ahalt nut pass frum th^ S-oasf : bnt vaje
" aU the laajs uf thg pfe, afflkting aU thg eeneraticn,
" till thg ^insham shall be tranalatei ta another, tohxrse
"laanner anb iJansuafle the §toph nnier thee knxitDeth
"not. #£ir shall thg sin be bone atoag till after long
" Chastisement, nor the sin of thjj pother, nor the sin
"of those ^en tnho assisteb in thg SKiekeb Conneil."
All which came to pass, as predicted by the Saint; for after being
worsted and put to flight by Sueno, king of the Danes, and his son
Canute, and at last closely besieged in London, he died miserably
a.d. 1 017, after he had reigned 36 years in great difficulties.
There is, besides, in the middle of the church, a tomb made of brass,
of some Bishop of London named William, who was in favour of
Edward, King of England, and afterwards was made counsellor to
King William. He was Bishop 16 years, and died a.d. 1077. Near
this is the following inscription : —
'Sirttte sarbibes the Jfuneral.
%,a the JEemora of
¦Thomas ^inacre, an imittent f kgsician,
John Caitts plaai thi« JEottitmjttt. 37

1 4 aunger&gle ^octetg Eejirints.

On the lower part of it, is this inscription in gold letters :
Thomas Linacre, Physician to King Henry VIIL, a man
learned in the Greek and Latin Languages, and particularly
skilful in Physic, by which he restored many from a state of
Languishment and Despair to Life. He translated with
extraordinary Eloquence many of Galen's Works into
Latin; and published, a little before his death, at the request
of his Friends, a very valuable book on the Correct Structure
of the Latin Tongue. He founded in perpetuity, in favour
of Students in Fhysick, two Public Lectures at Oxford, and
one at Cambridge. In this city he brought about, by his own
industry, the establishing of a College of Physicians, of which
he was elected the first President. He was a detester of all
fraud and deceit, and faithful in his friendships; equally dear
io men of all ranks. He went into Orders a few years before
his Death, and quitted this life full of years, atid much
lamented, a.d. 1524, on the 20th of October.
There are many Tombs in this Church, but without any inscrip
tions. It has a very fine organ, which, at Evening Prayer, accom
panied with other instruments, is delightful.
In the Suburb to the west, joined to the City by a continued row
of Palaces belonging to the chief Nobility, of a mile in length, and
lying on the side next the Thames, is the small town of Westminster;
originally called Thorney from its Thorn Bushes, but now Westminster,
from its aspect and its monastery. The Church is remarkable for
the Coronation and the Burial of the Kings of England. Upon this
spot is said formerly to have stood a Temple of Apollo, which was
thrown down by an earthquake in the time of Antoninus Pius; from
the ruins of which Sehert, King of the East-Saxons, erected another
to St Peter. This was subverted by the Danes, and again renewed
by Bishop Dunstan, who gave it to a few monks. Afterwards, King
38

^ Jfourncg into eEnglanlr. 15
Edward the Confessor built it entirely new, with the tenth of his
whole revenue, to be the place of his own burial, and a convent of
Benedictine monks; and enriched it with estates dispersed all over
England. In this Church the following things are worthy of notice :
In the first Choir, the Tomb of Anne of Cleves, wife oi Henry VIIL,
without any inscription.
On the opposite side are two stone Sepulchres. First : Edward,
Earl of Lancaster, brother of Edward I. Secondly : Adeinar of
Valence, Earl of Pembroke, son of Ademar of Valence. Joining to
these is a third, of Aveline, Countess of Lancaster.
In the second Choir is the Chair on which the Kings are seated,
when they are crowned ; in it is enclosed a stone, said to be that on
which the Patriarch Jacob slept, when he dreamed he saw a ladder
reaching quite up into Heaven. The following verses are written
upon a Tablet hanging near it ; the sense of which is :
That if any Faith is to be given to ancient Chronicles, a stone
of great note is enclosed in this Chair, being the same on which
the Patriarch Jacob reposed, when he beheld the miraculous
descent of Angels. Edward L, the Mars and Hector of Eng
land, having conquered Scotland, brought it from thence.
The Tomb of Richard II. and his wife, of brass gilt, and the verses
written round it :
f erffft anb ^ntlieitt, Sitkarli bg right the ^Monli,
lanquiekeb bg Jfortune, lies here itoto graben in stone,
%xaz of his SEori, anb thereto to ell resomtb ;
geemlg in person, anb like to Corner, as one
itt toorlblg f rnbenre, anb eber the Ckwrek in one
apkelb anb fabonr'b, easting the f ronb to grounb,
J[nb all that tooitlb his Sogal <§tate eonfounb. 39

1 6 ^ungEitsle Socict2 Eeprints.
Without the Tomb is this inscription :
^ere lies ^ing ^ickarb, toko pcriskeb bg a entel geatk,
in tke iear 1369.
To have heen happy is additional misery.
Near him is the Monument of his Queen, daughter of the Emperor
Wenceslaus. On the left hand is the Tomb of Edward I., with this
inscription :
lere lies ®btoarb I., toko ktimbleb tke ^eots. ^.g. 1308.
Be true to your engagements.
He reigned 46 years.
The Tomb of Edward III., of copper gilt, with this Epitaph :
Of English Kings here lieth the beauteous Flower,
Of all before past, and Myrror to them shall sue :
A merciful King, of Peace Conservator,
Tlie third Edward, etc. Vid. Dart. II. 44.
Beside the Tomb are these words :
ffibtoarb Hi. tokose fame has reack'b to ^caben. ^.g. 1377.
Fight for your Country.
Here is shown his Sword, eight feet in length, which they say he
used in the Conquest of France.
His Queen's Epitaph :
i)cre lies ^wcen ikiliii^ja, toife of Gfbtoarb iii. Jt.g. 1369.
Learn to live.
40

No. 3 of the AUNGERVYLE, which will appear
in September, w:ill contain the second portion of 'fA
JOURNEY INTO ENGLAND," by PAUL HENTZNER,'
in 1598.

3In&tnttt"

[September 1881.

UNGERYYLE

OCIETY

s§-«

w '^i?*?

No. III.
^ jloQFnFg ink ^nglanil
In the Year M.D.XCVIH.
By .
PAUL HENTZNER.
, ¦. {Continued})

"Son, a) ^ooke, are the golben ticsselis of tht 'STempU ; bnrning
lamps to be helb in the hanb," -
RiCHAftD AUNIJF.KVYI.E.
ii
Members of the Society are requested to communicate
any Bibliographical Curiosities they may possess to the
Hon. Secretary, E. M. Goldsmid, 30 Castle Terrace
Edinburgh, for Publication,

NOTICE.T-The Pagination of the Society's Publications will be a
double one, the pages* of each work reprinted will be sepa
rately Jiumbereday the top, whilst each yearly series will l)e
consecutively numbered at the bottom. Members can thus
bind the works as they may prefer.
Impression Limited to 150. Copies, of which this is No. yj U .

a Souunes into lEnglanlt. 17
At a little distance, the Tomb oi Henry V., with this Legend :
Denrp, ihe fcourge of Jfrauce, lies in this ^omh. Jl.p. 1422.
Virtue subdues all things.
Near this lies the Coffin of Catherine, unburied, and to be opened
by any one that pleases. On the outside is this inscription :
Jfair Clatlterine is at length nniteb to ker ^orb. 3,.g. 1437.
Shun idleness.
The Tomb of Henry IIL, of brass gilt, with this Epitaph :
lenrn iii. tke Jonnber of tkis CEatkebral, ^.f. 1273.
War is delightful to the inexperienced.
It was this Henry who, 160 years after Edward the Confessor had
built this Church, took it down, and raised an entire new one of
beautiful architecture, supported by rows of marble columns, and its
roof covered with sheets of lead, a work of fifty years before its com
pletion. It has been much enlarged at the West End by the Abbots.
After the expulsion of the Monks, it experienced many changes : first
it had a Dean and Prebendaries ; then a Bishop, who having
squandered the Revenues, resigned it again to a Dean. In a little
time, the Monks with their Abbot were reinstated by Queen Mary ;
but they being soon ejected by authority of Parliament, it was con
verted into a Cathedral Church ; nay, into a Seminary for the Church
by Queen Elizabeth, who instituted there twelve Prebendaries, an
equal number of invalid Soldiers, and forty Scholars ; who at a
proper time were elected into the Universities, and are thence trans
planted into the Church and State. 41

1 8 ^lungeubglE Siocietg Eeprtnts.

Next to be seen is the Tomb of Eleanor, daughter of Alphonso,
King of Spain, and wife of Edward I,, with this inscription :
^llhis Clcanor toas (tansort of (Ebtoarb E. Jl.^. 1298.
Learn to die.
The Tomb of FJizabdIi, daughter oi Henry ITI.
In the middle of this Chapel is the Shrine of St Edward, the last
King of the Saxons, It is composed of marbles in Mosaic; round it
runs this inscription in letters of gold :
¦xlhe 'iBenerable ^tng, <St (Ebtoarb tke Confrssor,
^ Jieroe aborneb toiih ebcnj i3trtue,
^e bieb aw Ike fifth of Jaunarn, 1065,
Jlnb 4,ttaunteb into Slcabeit.
Lift up your hearts.
The third Choir, of surprising splendour and elegance, was added
to tlie East End by Henry VII. for a Burying-place for himself and
his posterity. Here is to be seen his magnificent Tomb, wrought of
brass and marble, with this Epitaph :
Sere lies Ifjenrii,
Seventh of that N'aiiie, formerly King of England, Son of
Edmund, ^ar/c/ Richmond, laho, ascending the Throne on
the 2 2d day of August, was Crowned on the ^oth of October
following, at U^estminstt-r, in the year cf our Lord 148^.
He died on the 21st of April, iu the ^yrd year of his age,
after a Reign of 22 years and eight months, wanting a day.
This monument is inclosed with Rails of Brass, with a long Epitaph
in Latin verse.
Under the same Tomb lies buried Edivard VI.. King of England,
4^

^ Sourncg into lEnglanb. 19
son of Henry VIII, by Jane Seymour. He succeeded to his Father
when he was but nine years old, and died a.d. 1553, on the dth of
July, in the i6th year of his Age, and of his Reign the yth, not without
suspicion of Poison.
Mary was proclaimed Queen by the people on the 19th of July,
and died in November 1558, and is buried in some corner of the
same Choir, without any inscription.
Queen Elizabeth. ^f)£rc lies ^neen ffili^abetk,
Daughter of Edward IV., Sister of King Edward V.,
Wife of Henry VIL, and the glorious Mother (t/ Henry
VIII. She died in the Tower of London, on the nth of
February, A.D. 1502, in the ¦},ith year of her Age.
Between the second and third Choirs, in the side Chapels, are
the Tombs of Sebert, King of the the East- Saxons, who built this
Church with stone; and of
Jllargarct of Tiirkmoitb,
Mother of Henry VIL, Grandmother of Henry VIII.
She gave this Monastery to the Monks of Winbodrne,*
who preached and taught Grammar all England over, and
appointed Salaries to two Professors of Divinity, one at
Oxford, another at Cambridge, where she founded two
Colleges, to Christ, and to John his Disciple. She died
A.D. 1463, on the yd of the Calends of July.
And of Margaret, Countess oi Lenox, Grandmother oi Jaines VI.
King of Scotland.
* This is a, mistake. Her Epitaph says: " Stipendia constituit tribus hoc
csenobio Monachis et Doctor! Grammatices apud Wymboiune. " 43

20 ^ungerfaule Soctetn Ecprtnts.

William of Valence, half-brother oi Henry IIL
The Earl of Cornwall, brother of Edward III.
Upon another Tomb is an honorary inscription for Frances,
Duchess of Suffolk. The sense of it is —
That Title, Royal Birth, Riches, or a large Family, are of
no avail :
That all arc Transitory ; Virtue alone resisting tlie Funeral
Pile,
That this Lady was first Married to a Duke; then to Stoke,
a Gentleman ;
And lastly, by the grave Espoused to Christ.
The next is the Tomb of Lord Russel, Son of the Earl of Bedford,
whose Lady composed the following Greek and Latin verses, and
had them engraved on marble:
How was I startled at the cruel Feast,
By Death's rude Hands iu horrid manner drest ;
Such Grief as sure no hapless Woman knew,
Whcu thy pale Image lay before my view.
Thy Father's heir in beauteous Form array' d
Like Flowers in Spring, and fair, Uke theni to fade;
Leaving behind unhappy loretehed me.
And all my little Orphan-progeny;
Alike the beauteous Face, tlie comely air.
The Tongue fo-sua.itTe, and fhe Action fair.
Decay: So Learning too iu Time shall 7oaste;
But Faith, Chaste lovely Faith, shall ever last.
The one bright Glory of this House, the Pride
Of all his Country, dusty Ruins hide :
Mourn, hapless Orphans, mourn, once happy Wife,
For when he dy'd, dy'd all the Joys of Life.
44

^ Sournrg into (SnglanS. 21

Pious and fust, amidst a large Estate,
He got at once the Name of Good and Great.
He made no flattering Parasite his Guest,
But asked the good Companions to the Feast.
Anne, Countess of Oxford, Daughter of William Cecil, Baron
Burleigh, and Lord Treasurer.
Philippa, Daughter and Coheiress oi John, Lord Mohun oi Dun-
ster. Wife of Edward, Duke of York.
Frances, Countess of Sussex, of the antient Family of Sidney.
Thmtias Bromley, Chancellor to Queen Elizabeth.
The Earl of Bridgwater, Lord Dawbney, Lord Chamberlain to
Henry VII. and his Lady.
And thus much for Westminster.
There are many other Churches in this City; but none so reran rk-
able for Tombs of Persons of Distinction.
Near to this Church is Westminster Hall, where, besides the
Sessions of Parliament, which are often held there, are the Courts
of Justice; and at stated times are heard there Trials in Law, or
concerning the King's Patrimony; or in Chancery, which moderates
the severity of the Common Law by Equity. Till the time of
Henry I., the prime Court of Justice was moveable, and followed
the King's Court; but he enacted, by the IVEagna Charta, That
the Common Pleas should uo longer attend his Court, but be held
at some determined Place. The present Hall was built by King
Richard II., in the place of an ancient one, whicli he caused to be
taken down. He made it part of his Habitation (for at that time
the Kings of England determined Causes in their own proper
Person, and from the days of Edward the Confessor, had their
Palace adjoining), till about 60 years since, upon its being burnt,
45

2 2 ^unger&glE Societg 2^Eprints.

Henry VIII. removed the Royal residence to Whitehall, situated
in the neighbourhood, which a little before was the House of
Cardinal Wolsey: This Palace is truly Royal; inclosed on one side
by the Thames, on the other by a Park, which connects it with St
James's, another Royal Palace. In the Chamber where the Par
liament is usually held, the Seats and ^\'ainscot are made of Wood,
the Growth of Ireland; said to have that occult property that all
poisonous animals are driven away by it ; and it is affirmed for
certain, that in Ireland there are neither Serpents, Toads, nor any
other Venomous Creature to be found. Near this Palace are seen
nn immense number of Swans, who wander up and down the river
for some miles, in great security; nobody daring to molest, much
less kill any of them, under Penalty of a considerable Fine.
In Whitehall are the following things worthy of observation : —
(I.) The Royal Library, well stored with Greek, Latin, Italian,
and French books : Amongst the rest, a little one in French, upon
Parchment, in the handwriting of the present reigning Queen
Elizabeth, thus inscribed :
To the most High, Puissant, and redoubted Prince, Henry
VIIL, of the name. King of England, F^rance, and Ire
land, Defender of the Faith : Elizabeth, his most humble
Daughter, Health and Obedience.
All these Books are bound in Velvet of different Colours, though
chiefly red, with Clasps of Gold and Silver; some have Pearls, and
precious Stones set in their Bindings.
(II.) Two little Silver Cabinets of Exquisite Work, in which the
Queen keeps her paper, and which she uses for A\'riting Boxes.
(III.) The Queen's Bed, ingeniously composed of Woods of
different Colours; with Quilts of Silk, Velvet, Gold, Silver, and
Embroidery. (IV.) A little Chest, ornamented all over with Pearls, in which
46

S Sourneu into (Cnglanti.

the Queen keeps her Bracelets, Ear-rings, and other things of extra
ordinary value.
(V.) Christ's passion, in painted Glass.
(VI.) Portraits, among which are — Queen Elizabeth, at i6 years
old. Henry, Richard, Edward, Kings of England; Rosamond;
Lucrece, a Grecian Bride, in her Nuptial Habit ; the Genealogy of
the Kings of England; a Picture of King Edward VI., represent
ing at first sight something quite deformed, till by looking through
a small Hole in the Cover, which is put over it, you see it in its
true Proportions ; Charles V., Emperor ; Charles Emanuel,
Duke of Savoy, and Catherine of Spain, his Wife; Ferdinand,
Duke of Florence, with his Daughters ; one of Philip, King of Spain,
when he came into England and married Mary; Henry VIL,
Henry VIIL, and his Mother : Besides many more of illustrious
Men and Women ; and a Picture of the Siege of Malta.
(VII.) A small Hermitage, half hid in a Rock, finely Carved in
Wood. (VIII.) Variety of Emblems, on Paper, cut in the Shape of
Shields, with Mottoes, used by the Nobility at Tilts and Tourna
ments, hung up here for a Memorial.
(IX.) Different Instruments of Music, upon one of which two
Persons may perform at the same Time.
(X.) A Piece of Clock-work, an Aethiop riding upon a Rhinoceros,
with four attendants, who all make their obeisance, when it strikes
the Hour; these are all put into motion by winding up the machine.
At the Entrance into the Park, from Whitehall, is this inscrip
tion : —The Fisherman who has been wounded, learns, though late, to
beware ;
But the unfortunate Actaeon always presses on. The Chaste
Virgin naturally pitied :
But the powerful Goddess revenged the Wrong. 47

24 ^ungerbglc .SociEts E^prints.

Let Actaeon /a// a prey to his Dogs.
Au Example to Youth,
A Disgrace to those that belong to him !
Aday Diana live the Care of Heaven ;
The Delight of Mortals ;
The security of those that belong to her!*
In this Park is great plenty of Deer.
In a Garden joining to this Palace, there is a fet d'eau, with a
Sun-dial, which, while strangers are looking at it, a quantity of
Water, forced by a Wheel, which the Gardiner turns at a distance,
through a number of little Pipes, plentifully sprinkles those that are
standing round.
Guildhall, a fine Structure, built by Thomas Knowles : Here
are to be seen the Statues of two Giants, said to have assisted the
English when the Romans made war upon them ; Corinics of
Britain, and Gogmagog of Albion. Beneath, upon a Table, the
Titles of Charles V., Emperor, are written in Letters of Gold.
The Government of London is this :
The City is divided into 25 Regions, or Wards ; the Council is
composed of 24 Aldermen, one of which presides over every Ward.
And whereas of old the Chief ^Magistrate was a Portreve, i.e., Gover
nor of the City: Richard I. appointed two Bailiffs; instead of
which, King John gave a power by Grant, of chusing annually a
Mayor, from any of the twelve principal Companies, and to name
two Sheriffs, one of which to be called the King's, the other, the
City's. It is scarce credible how this City increased, both in public
and private Buildings, upon Establishing this form of Government.
— Vide Caudh/en's Britan., Middlesex,
it is worthy of observation, that every year, upon St. Earthole-

* This romantic Inscription probably alluded to Philip II., who wooed the
Queen after her Sister's Dcnlh ; and to the Destruction of his Armada.
4S

^ Sournec into lEnglanti. 25
mew's Day, when the Fair is held, it is usual for the Mayor, attended
by the 12 principal Aldermen, to walk in a neighbouring Field,
dressed Ln his Scarlet Gown, and about his neck a Golden Chain,
to which is hung a Golden Fleece, and besides, that particular Orna
ment, which distinguishes the most noble Order of the Garter.
During the year of his magistracy, he is obliged to live so magnifi
cently, that Foreigner or Native, without any Expence, is free, if he
can find a chair empty, to Dine at his table, where there is always
the greatest Plenty. When the Mayor goes out of the Precincts of
the City, a Scepter, a Sword, and a Cap, are borne before him, and
he is followed by the principal Aldermen in Scarlet Gowns, with
Gold Chains ; himself and they on Horseback : upon their arrival
at a place appointed for that Purpose, where a Tent is pitched, the
Mob begin to wresde before them, two at a time; the Conquerors
receive Rewards from the Magistrates. After this is over, a Parcel
of live Rabbits are turned loose among the Crowd, which are pur
sued by a number of Boys, who endeavour to catch them, with all
the noise they can make. While we were at this Show, one of our
Company, Tobias Salander, Doctor of Physic, had his Pocket
picked of his Purse, with nine Crowns du soleil, which, without
doubt, was so cleverly taken from him, by an Englishman who
always kept very close to him, that the Doctor did not in the least
perceive it.
The Castle, or Tower of London, called Bringwin, and Tourg-
win, in Welch, from its whiteness, is encompassed by a very deep
and broad Ditch, as well as a double Wall very high. In the middle
of the whole is that very antient and very strong Tower, enclosed
with four others, which, in the opinion of some, was buiU by Julius
Caesar. Upon entering the Tower, we were obliged to quit our
swords at the Gate, and-deUver them to the Guard. When we were
introduced, we were shown a hundred pieces of Arras belonging to
the Crown, made of Gold, Silver, and Silk; several Saddles, covered
49

2 6 ^unger&slc Soci^tu ^Reprints.

with Velvet of different Colours ; an immense quantity of Bed-
furniture, such as Canopies, and the like, some of them most richly
ornamented with Pearl ; some Royal Dresses, so extremely magnifi
cent, as to raise any one's admiration at the .sums they must have
cost. We were next led into the Armoury, in which are these
particularities : Spears, out of which you may shoot ; Shields, that
will give fire four times ; a great many rich Halberds, commonly
called Partuisans, with which the Guard defend the Royal Person in
battle ; some Lances, covered with red and green Velvet, and the
body armour of Henry VIIL; many, and very beautiful Arms, as
well for Men, as for Horses in horse-fights ; the Lance of Charles
Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, three spans thick; two pieces of
Cannon, the one fires three, the other seven Balls at a time ; two
others, made of Wood, which the English had at the siege of
Boulogne, in France, and by this stratagem, without which they
could not have succeeded, they struck a terror into the inhabitants,
as at the appearance of Artillery, and the Town was surrendered
upon Articles; 19 Cannon, of a thicker make than ordinary, and in
a Room apart; 36 of a smaller ; other Cannon for Chain-shot; and
BaUs proper to bring down Masts of Ships. Cross-bows, Bows and
Arrows, of which to this day the English make great use in their
Exercises : but who can relate all that is to be seen here ? Eight or
nine men, employed by the year, are scarcely sufficieut to keep all
the Arms bright.
The Mint for Coining Money is in the Tower.
N.B, — It is to be noted that when any of the nobility are sent
hither, on the charge of high crimes, punishable with death, such as
Treason, etc., they seldom or never recover their liberty. Here was
beheaded Anna Bolen, Wife of King Henry VIIL, and lies buried
in the Chapel, but without any inscription ; and Queen Elizabeth
was kept prisoner here by her sister, Queen Mary, at whose death
slie was lui]art;od anil by right called tu the Throne.
SO

% Sournrij into €nglanlr, 27
On coming out of the Tower, we were led to a small House close
by, where are kept variety of Creatures, viz.: three Lionesses, one
Lion of great size, called Edward VI. , fiom his having been born
in that reign ; a Tygar ; a Lynx ; a Wolf, excessively old : this is a
very scarce animal in England, so that their Sheep and Cattle stray
about in great numbers, free from any Danger, though without any
body to keep them ; there is, besides, a Porcupine, and an Eagle :
all these Creatures are kept in a remote place, fitted up for the pur
pose, with wooden lattices, at the Queen's expence.
Near to this Tower, is a large open space : on the highest part of
it is erected a wooden Scaffold, for the execution of Noble Criminals;
upon which, they say, three Princes of England, the last of their
Families, have been beheaded for High Treason.
On the Bank of the Thames, close by, are a great many Cannon,
such, chiefly, as are used at Sea.
The next thing worthy of note, is the Royal Exchange, so
named by Queen Elizabeth, built by Sir Thomas Gresham,
Citizen, for public ornament, and the convenience of Merchants.
It has a great effect, whether you consider the stateliness of the
building, the assemblage of different nations, or the quantity of
merchandise. I shall say nothing of the hall belonging to the
Hans Society; or of the Conveyance of Water to all parts of the
Town by subterraneous pipes, nor the beautiful conduits and cisterns
for the reception of it ; nor of the rising of water out of the Thames
by a wheel, invented a few years since by a German.
Bridewell, at present the House of Correction : It was built in
six weeks for the reception ofthe Emperor Charles V.
A Hall, built by a Cobler, and bestowed on the City, where are
exposed to Sale, three times in a week. Corn, Wool, Cloth, Fruits,
and the like.
Without the City are some Theatres, where English actors repre
sent almost every day tragedies and comedies to very numerous 51

2 8 ^unger&glf Sori^tg Erprints.

Audiences; these are concluded with Music, variety of Dances, and
the excessive applause of those that are present.
Not far from one of these Theatres, which are built of Wood, lies
the Royal Barge, close to the River ; it has two splendid Cabbins,
beautifully ornamented with Glass Windows, Painting, and Gilding ;
it is kept upon dry Ground, and sheltered from the weather.
There is still another place, built in the form of a Theatre, which
serves for the baiting of Bulls and Bears ; they are fastened behind,
and then worried by great English bull-dogs ; but not without great
risque to the dogs, from the horns of the one, and the teeth of the
other ; and it sometimes happens they are killed upon the spot ;
fresh ones are immediately supplied in the place of those that are
wounded or tired. To this entertainment, there often follows that
of whipping a blinded bear, which is performed by five or six men,
standing circularly with whips, which they exercise upon him without
mercy, as he cannot escape from them because of his chain; he
defends himself with all his force and skill, throwing down all who
come within his reach, and are not active enough to get out of it,
and tearing the whips out of their hands, and breaking thera. At
these spectacles, and everywhere else, the English are constantly
smoaking tobacco, and in this manner : they have pipes on purpose
made of clay, into the farther end of which they put the Herb, so
dry that it may be rubbed into powder, and putting fire to it, they
draw the smoke into their mouths, which they puff out again, through
their nostrils, like funnels, along with it plenty of phlegm and
defluxion from the head. In these theatres, fruits, such as apples,
pears, and nuts, according to the season, are carried about to be
sold, as well as ale and wine.
There are fifteen Colleges, within and without the City, nobly
built, with beautiful gardens adjoining; of these, the three principal
are : —
(1.) The 'FioMrLi'., inh.Tbited formerly by tlie Knights Templars:
52

!I Sourneo into (tHnglanii, 29

It seems to have taken its name from the old Temple, or Church,
which has a round Tower added to it, under which lie buried those
Kings oi Denmai-k, that reigned in England.
(II.) Grays-Inn. And,
(III.) Lincolns-Inn.
In these Colleges numbers of the young nobility, gentry, and
others, are educated, and chiefly in the study of Physic, for very few
apply themselves to that of the Law : They are allowed a very good
Table, and silver cups to drink out of Once a person of distinction,
who could not help being surprised at the great number of cups,
said. He should have thought it more suitable to the life of students,
if they had used rather Glass, or Earthenware, than Silver. The
College answered. They were ready to make him a present of all
their plate, provided he would undertake to supply them with all the
glass and earthenware they should have a demand for; since it was
very likely he would find the expence, from constant breaking,
exceed the value of the silver.
The Streets in this City are very handsome and clean ; but that
which is named from the Gold-smiths, who inhabit it, surpasses all
the rest : There is in it a gilt tower, with a fountain that plays; near
it, on the farther side, is a handsome house, built by a Goldsmith,
and presented by him to the City. There are, besides, to be seen
in this street, as in all others where there are Goldsmiths' shops, all
sorts of gold and silver vessels exposed to sale ; as well as ancient
and modern medals, in such quantities as must surprise a man the
first time he sees and considers them.
Fitz-Stephens, a writer of English History, reckoned in his time,
in London, 127 Parish Churches, and 13 belonging to Convents.
He mentions, besides, that upon a review there of men able to bear
arms, the People brought into the Field under their Colours, 40,000
Foot, and 20,000 Horse.— Vide Cambden's Britan. Middlesex.
The best Oysters are sold here in great quantities. Every body
53

^ungfrbgle Societg Ecprints.

knows that English Cloth is much approved of, for the goodness of
the materials, and imported into all the Kingdoms and Provinces of
Europe. We were shewn at the House of Leonard Smith, a Taylor, a most
perfect looking-glass, ornamented with Gold, Pearl, Silver, and
Velvet, so richly, as to be estimated at five hundred Ecus du Soleil,
We saw at the same place the Hippocamp and Eagle Stone, both
very curious and rare. And thus much for London.
UPON taking the Air down the River, the first Thing that struck
us, was the Ship of that noble Pirate, Sir Francis Drake, in which
he is said to have surrounded this Globe of Earth, On the left
Hand lies Radcliffe, a considerable Suburb: on the opposite Shore is
fixed a long Pole with Ram's-horns upon it, the Intention of which
was vulgarly said to be, a Reflection upon wilful and contented
Cuckolds. We arrived next at the Royal Palace of Greenwich, reported to
have been originally built by Humphrey , Duke of Gloucester, and to
have received very magnificent Additions from Henry VII. It was
here Elizabeth, the present Queen, was born, and here she generally
resides; particularly in Summer, for the DeHghtfulness of its Situa
tion. We were admitted, by an Order Mr Rogers had procured
from the Lord Chamberlain, into the Presence-Chamber, hung with
rich Tapestry, and the Floor, after the English Fashion, strewed
with Hay,* through which the Queen commonly passes on her way
to Chapel. At the Door stood a Gentleman dressed in Velvet, with
a Gold Chain, whose Office was to introduce to the Queen any
Person of Distinction, that came to wait on her. It was Sunday
* He probably means Rushes.
54

% Sourneg into England. 31
when there is usually the greatest Attendance of Nobility. In the
same Hall were the Archbishop of Canterbury, the Bishop of London,
a great number of Counsellors of State, Officers of the Crown, and
Gentlemen, who waited the Queen's coming out; which she did
from her own Apartment, when it was Time to go to Prayers,
attended in the following manner :
First went Gentlemen, Barons, Earls, Knights of the Garter, all
richly dressed and bareheaded; next came the Chancellor, bearing
the Seals in a red-silk Purse, between Two: one of which carried
the Royal Sceptre, the other the Sword of State, in a red Scabbard,
studded with golden Fleur-de-Lis, the Point upwards; next came
the Queen, in the Sixty-fifth Year of her Age, as we were told,
very Majestic; her Face oblong, fair, but wrinkled; her Eyes small,
yet black and pleasant; her Nose a little hooked; her Lips narrow;
and her Teeth black (a Defect the EngUsh seem subject to, from
their too great Use of Sugar); she had in her Ears two Pearis, with
very rich Drops ; she wore false Hair, and that red ; upon her Head
she had a small Crown, reported to be made of some of the Gold of
the celebrated Lunebourg Table;* her Bosom was uncovered, as all
the English Ladies have it, till they marry; and she had on a Neck
lace of exceeding fine Jewels; her Hands were small, her Fingers
long, and her Stature neither taU nor low; her Air was stately, her
Manner of speaking mild and obliging. That Day she was dressed
in white Silk, bordered with Pearls of the Size of Beans, and over it
a Mantle of black Silk, shot with Silver Threads; her Train was yery
long, the End of it borne by a Marchioness; instead of a Chain, she
had an oblong Collar of Gold and Jewels. As she went along in all
this State and Magnificence, she spoke very graciously, first to one,
then to another, whether foreign Ministers, or those who attended
for different Reasons, in English, French, and Italian; for, besides

* At this distance of time, it is difficult to say what this was. 55

^ungcrijgle .Socirtg Eeprints.

being well skilled in Greek, Latin, and the Languages I have men
tioned, she is Mistress of Spanish, Scotch, and Dutch. Whoever
speaks to her, it is kneeling; now and then she raises some with her
Hand. While we were there, W. Sla^vata, a Bohemian Baron, had
Letters to present to her; and she, after pulling off her Glove, gave
him her right Hand to kiss, sparkling with Rings and Jewels, a mark
of particular Favour. Wherever she turned her Face, as she was
going along, everybody fell down on their knees.* The Ladies of
the Court followed next to her, very handsome and well-shaped, and
for the most Part dressed in white; she was guarded on each Side
by the Gentiemen Pensioners, fifty in number, with gilt Battle-axes.
In the Anti-chapel, next the Hall where we were. Petitions were
presented to her, and she received them most graciously, which
occasioned the Acclamation of. Long live Queen Elizabeth ! She
answered it with, / thank you, my good People. In the Chapel
was exceUent Music; as soon as it and the Service was over, which
scarce exceeded half an Hour, the Queen returned in the same State
and Order, and prepared to go to Dinner. But while she was still
at Prayers, we saw her Table set out with the following Solemnity.
A Gentleman entered the Room bearing a Rod, and along with
him another who had a Table-cloth, which, after they had both
kneeled three Times with the utmost Veneration, he spread upon
the Table, and after kneeling again, they both retired. Then came
two others, one with the Rod again, the other with a Salt-sellar, a
Plate, and Bread; when they had kneeled, as the others had done,
and placed what was brought upon the Table, they too retired with
the same Ceremonies performed by the first. At last came an

* Her father had been treated with the same deference. It is mentioned by
Fox, in his Acts and Monuments, that, when the Lord Chancellor went to appre
hend Queen Catherine Parr, he spoke to the King on his knees.
King James I. suffered his courtiers to omit it.
— Bacon s Papers, Vol. IL, p. 516.
56

In No. IV., Paul Hentzner's journey into
ENGLAND will be concluded.

IVill be Published shortly, in Parts,
" |3ibIiogPHp|irflI ^flpiMF^,-'
being a Catalogue of the Rarest Works
in. the English Language, with Prices
obtained at Sales, &'c., dfc.
The Numbers will appear each
Month. Subscription : Two Shillings
a Quarter. Communications to be Addressed to
E. M. GOLDSMID,
30 CASTLE TERRACE, EDINBURGH.

if

Jtt&^nirt"

[October 1881.

(^^^yjy ^6

UNGERYYLE

GCIETY

t-

rtS^

<>».

I

ii

No. IV.
^ ^onpnfg into €lng[anii
In the Year M.D.XCVIII.
By
PAUL HENTZNER.
{Concluded})

'^ott, ffl ^ooks, nrt tlu jolftfit bcsstis of tht 'iltmplt ; bnvmng
lamps to bt htlb in tht hanb."
Richard Aungervyle.

Members of the Society are requested to communicate
any Bibliographical Curiosities they may possess to the
Hon. Secretary, E. M. Goldsmid, 30 Castle Terrace,
Edinburgh, for Publication.

Notice. — The Pagination of the Society's Publications will be a
double one, the pages of each work reprinted will be sepa
rately numbered at the top, whilst each yearly series will be
consecutively numbered at the bottom. Members can thus
bind the works as they may prefer.

Impression Limited to i^o Copies, of which this is

No.yJ. (}

S Sourneg into ffinglanlj. 33
unmarried Lady (we were told she was a Countess), and along with
her a married one, bearing a Tasting-knife; the former was dressed
in white Silk, who, when she had prostrated herself three Times, in
the most graceful Manner, approached the Table, and rubbed the
Plates with Bread and Salt, with as much Awe, as if the Queen had
been present. When they had waited there a little while, the Yeo
men of the Guard entered, bare-headed, cloathed in Scarlet, with a
golden Rose upon their Backs, bringing in at each Turn a Course of
twenty-four Dishes, served in Plate most of it Gilt; these Dishes
were received by a Gentleman in the same Order they were brought,
and placed upon the Table, while the Lady-taster gave to each of
the Guard a mouthful to Eat, of the particular Dish he had brought,
for Fear of any Poison. During the Time that this Guard, which
consists of the tallest and stoutest Men that can be found in all
England — being carefully selected for this Service — were bringing
Dinner, twelve Trumpets and two Kettle-drums made the Hall
ring for half an Hour together. At the End of this Ceremonial a
Number of unmarried Ladies appeared, who, with particular Solem
nity, lifted the Meat off the Table, and conveyed it into the Queen's
inner and more private Chamber, where, after she had chosen for
herself, the rest goes to the Ladies of the Court.
The Queen dines and sups alone, with very few attendance;
and it is very seldom that anybody, Foreigner or Native, is ad
mitted at that Time, and then only at the intercession of somebody
in power.
Near this Palace is the Queen's Park, stocked with Deer. Such
Parks are common throughout England, belonging to those who are
distinguished either for their Rank or Riches. In the middle of
this is an old square Tower, called Mirefleur, supposed to be that i
mentioned in the Romance oi Aniadis de Gaul; and joining to it a i
Plain, where Knights and other Gentlemen used to meet at set
Times and Holidays to Exercise on Horseback. 57

34 Sungfrfayle 5oriftu Jarprtnts.

We left London in a Coach, in order to see the remarkable Places
in the Neighbourhood.
The first was Theobalds, belonging to Lord Burleigh, the
Treasurer. In the Gallery was painted the Genealogy of the Kings
of England ; from this place, one goes into the Garden, encompassed
with a Ditch full of Water, large enough for one to have the pleasure
of going into a Boat, and rowing between the shrubs; here are great
varieties of Trees and Plants, Labyrinths made with a great deal of
Labour ; a Jet d'eau, with its Bason of white Marble ; and Columns
and Pyramids of Wood and other Materials up and down the
Garden. After seeing these, we were led by the Gardener into a
Summer-house, in the lower part of which, built semi-circularly, are
the twelve Roman Emperors, in Marble, and a Table of Touchstone;
the upper part of it is set round with Cisterns of Lead, into which the
Water is conveyed by Pipes, so that Fish may be kept in them ; and
in Summer time they are very convenient for Bathing. In another
Room, for Entertainment, very near this, and joined to it by a litde
Bridge, was an Oval Table of red Marble. Wz were not admitted
to see the Apartments of this Palace, there being nobody to shew it,
as the Family was in Town attending the Funeral of their Lord.*
HoDSON, a A'illage.
Ware, a Market Town.
PucKERiDGE, a Village; this was the first place where we ob
served that the Beds at Inns were made by the U'aiters.
Camboretum, Cantabrigium, and Cantabrigia, now calltd
Cambridge, a celebrated Town, so named from the ri\er Cam
which, after washing the western side, pla\ing through Islands, turns
to the east, and divides the Town into two parts, which are joined
by a Bridge; whence its'modern name. Formerly it had the Saxon
one of Grantbridge. Beyond this Bridge is an antient and lar^e

* Lord Tieasurer Burleigh died August 4, 1 50S.
58

^ Sourneg into lEnglanH. 35
Castle, said to be built by the Danes: on this side, where far the
greater part ofthe Town stands, all is splendid ; the Streets fine, the
Churches numerous, and those Seats of the Muses, the Colleges,
most beautiful ; in these, a great number of learned Men are sup
ported, and the studies of all polite Sciences and Languages flourish.
I think proper to mention some few things about the Foundation of
this University and its Colleges. Cantabar, a Spaniard, is thought
to have first instituted this University, 375 years before Christ; and
Sehert, King of the East-Angles, to have restored it, a.d. 630. It
was afterwards subverted in the Confusion under the Danes, and lay
long neglected ; till, upon the Norman Conquest, everything began
to brighten up again. From that time. Inns and Halls for the Con
venient Lodging of Students began to be built, but without any
Revenues attached to them. The first College, called Peter-
House, was built and endowed by Hugh Balsam, Bishop of Ely,
A.D. 1280; and, in imitation of him, Richard Badew, with the
assistance of Elizabeth Burk, Countess of Clare and Ulster, founded
Claer-Hall, in 1326; Mary de St. Paul, CovcaX.t%% of Pembroke,
Pembroke-Hall, in 1343 ; the Monks of Corpus Christi, the
College of the same name, though it has besides that of Bennet;
John Craudene, Trinity-Hall, 1354; Ed^nond Gonville,\r\ 1348;
and John Caius, a Physician in our times, Gonville and Caius
College; King Henry VI,, King's College, in 144I; adding to it
a Chapel, that may justly claim a place among the most beautiful
buildings in the world ; on its right side is a fine Library, where we
saw the Book of Psalms in Manuscript upon Parchment, four spans
in length, and three broad, taken from the Spaniards at the Siege of
Cadiz, and thence brought into England, with other rich spoils.
Margaret oi Anjou, his wife, founded Queen's College, 1448. At
the same time ik\z.\. John Alcock, Bishop of Ely, built Jesus College;
Robert Woodlarke, Catherine-Hall, 1456; Alargaret oi Richmond,
mother of Henry VIL, Christ's and St. John's Colleges, about
59

36 aiungerbtle Societg Eeprints.

1506; Thomas Audley. Chancellor oi England, Magdalen College,
much increased since, both in buildings and revenue, by Christopher
Jl'rav, Lord Chief Justice ; and the most potent King Henry VIII.
crccti'd Trinity College for Religion and Polite Letters; in its
Chapel is the Tomb of Dr Whitacre, with an inscription in Gold
Lelters upon Marble; Emmanuel College, built in our own times
Ijy the most honourable and prudent Sir Walter Mildmay, one of
Her Majesty's Privy Council; and, lastly, Sidney College, now
building by the Executors of the Lady Frances Sidney, Countess of
Sussex.* We must note here that there is a certain sect in England called
Puritans. These, according to the doctrine of the Church of Geneva,
reject all ceremonies antiently held, and admit of neither organ nor
Tombs in their places of Worship, and entirely abhor all difference
in Rank among Churchmen, such as Bishops, Deans, etc. They
were first named Puritans by the Jesuit Sandys. They do not live
separate, but mix with those of the Church of England in the
Colleges. Potton, a Village.
Ampthill, a Town; here we saw immense numbers of rabbits,
which are reckoned as good as hares, and are very well tasted.
We passed through the towns of Woburn, Leighton, Ailesbury,
and Wheatley.
Oxonium, Oxford, the famed Athens of England; that glorious
Seminary of Learning and Wisdom, whence Religion, Politeness,
and Letters are abundantly dispersed into all parts of the King
dom. The Town is remarkably fine, whether you consider the
elegance of its private buildings, the magnificence of its Public ones,
or the Beauty and \\'holesomeness of its situation; which is on a

* Slie was the daughter, sister, and aunt of those eminent knights — Sir William,
Sir Ilc-nry, iind .Sir Philip Sidney.

60

!3 Sourncg into CBnglanti.

plain, encompassed in such a manner with Hills shaded with Wood,
as to be sheltered on the one hand from the sickly South, and on the
other from the blustering West, but open to the East that blows
serene weather, and to the North the preventer of corruption; from
which, in the opinion of some, it formerly obtained the appellation of
Bellositum. This town is watered by two rivers, the Cherwell, and
the Isis, vulgarly called the Ouse; and though these streams join in
the same channel, yet the Isis runs more entire, and with more
rapidity towards the south, retaining its name till it meets the
Thames, which it seems long to have sought, at Wallingford, thence
called by the compound name of Thames, it flows the Prince of all
British Rivers; of whom we may justly say it both sows and waters
England. The Colleges in this University are as follow : — In the reign of
Henry III., Walter Merton, Bishop oi Rochester, removed the College
he had founded in Surrey, 1274, to Oxford, enriched it, and named
it Merton College; and soon after William, Archdeacon of Durham,
restored, with additions, that building of Alfred's, now called Univer
sity College; in the reign oi Edward I., John Baliol, King of Scot
land, or, as some will have it, his parents, founded Baliol College.
In the reign of Edward II, , Walter Stapleton, Bishop of Exeter,
founded Exeter College, and Harthall; and, in imitation of him,
the King, King's College, commonly called Oriel, and St. Mary's
Hall. Next, Philippa, wife of Edward III., built Queen's College ;
and Simon Islip, Archbishop of Canterbury, Canterbury College;
William Wickham, Bishop of Winchester, raised that magnificent
structure called New College. Magdalen College was built by
William Wainflet, Bishop of Winchester, a noble Edifice, finely
situated, and delightful for its walks. At the same time Humphrey,
Duke of Gloucester, that great encourager of learning, built the
Divinity School very splendidly, and over it a Library, to which he
gave one hundred and twenty-nine very choice Books, purchased at
61

3^ ^ungntnlc Socirtg lUprtnts.

a great price from Italy, but the Public has long since been robbed
ofthe use of them by the avarice of Particulars. Lincoln College;
All-Souls College; St. Bernard's College; Brazen-Nose College,
founded by William Smith, Bishop oi Lincoln, in the reign oi Henry
VH. Its revenues were augmented by Alexander Nowell, Dean of
St, Paul's, London; upon the gate of this College is fixed a Nose of
ISrass. Corpus Christi College, built 'oy Richard Fox. Bishop of
ll'incheslcr; under his picture in the College Chapel are lines im
porting that it is the exact representation of his person and dress.
Christ's College, the largest and most elegant of them all, was
begun on the ground of St. Frideswide' s Monaster)' by Thomas
Wolsey, Cardinal of York, to which Henry VIII. joined Canterbury
College, settled grant revenues upon it, and named it Christ's
Church. The same great Prince, out of his own Treasury, to the
Dignity of the Town, and Ornament of the University, made the one
a Bishoprick, and instituted Professorships in the other.
Jesus College, built by Hugh Price, Doctor of Laws.
That fine edifice, the public schools, was entirely raised by Queen
Mary, and adorned with various inscriptions.
Thus far of the Colleges and Halls, which for the beauty of their
Buildings, their rich Endowments, and copious Libraries, excel aU
the academies in the Christian World. A\'e shall add a litde of the
Academies themselves, and those that inhabit them.
There Students lead a life almost monastic, for as the monks
had nothing in the world to do, but when they had said their
prayers at stated hours, to employ themselves in instructive studies,
no more have these. They are divided into Three Tables: the
first is called the Fellows' Table, to which are admitted Earls,
Barons, GenUemen, Doctors, and Masters of Arts, but very few
of the latter. This is more plentifully and expensively served
than the others. The second is for Masters of Arts, Bachelors,
some Gendemen, and eminent Citizens. The third for people
62

SI Sourneu into (l^nglantJ. 39
of low condition. While the rest are at dinner or supper in a' great
Hall, where they are all assembled, one of the Students reads aloud
the Bible, which is placed on a desk in the middle of the Hall, and
this office every one of them takes upon himself in his turn; as soon
as grace is said after each meal, every one is at liberty either to retire
to his own chambers, or to walk in the College Garden, there being
none that has not a delightful one. Their Habit is almost the same
as that of the Jesuits, their Gowns reaching down to their ancles,
sometimes Hned with fur, they wear square caps; the Doctors,
Masters of Arts, and Professors have another kind of gown that
distinguishes them. Every Student of any considerable standing has
a key to the College Library, for no College is without one.
In an out part of the town, are the remains of a pretty large forti
fication, but quite in ruins. We were entertained at supper with an
excellent Concert, composed of variety of Instruments. The next
day we went as far as the Royal Palace of Woodstock, where King
Ethelred formerly held a Parliament, and enacted certain Laws.
This Palace abounding in magnificence, was built by Henry L, to
which he joined a very large Park, enclosed with a Wall, accord
ing to John Rosse the first Park in Englafid. In this very Palace the
present reigning Queen Elizabeth, before she was confined to the
Tower, was kept Prisoner by her Sister Mary; while she was detained
here in the utmost peril of her life, she wrote with a piece of charcoal
the following verses, composed by herself on a window-shutter: —
" O Fortune! how thy reckless wavering state.
Hath fraught with cares my trouhled wit!
Witness this present Prison whither fate
Hath borne me, and the joys I quit.
Thou causedest the guilty to be loosed
From bands, wherewith are Innocents inclosed;
Causing the guiltless to be straight reserved,
And freeing those that death had well deserved: 63

4" aungcrbulc Socictg Eeprtnts.

But hy her envy can he nothing wrought.
So Cod send to my Foes all they have thought."
A.D. M.D.L.V. 'iLhiZAB-E.TV., Prisoner.
Not far from this Palace are to be seen, near a spring of the
brightest w.Uer, the Ruins of the Habitation of Rosamund Clifford,
whose excjuisite beauty so entirely captivated the heart of King
Flenry II,, that he lo-^t the thought of all other women ; she is said
to have been poisoned at last by the Queen. All that remains of
her Tomb of stone, the letters of which are almost worn out, is what
follows : — ^iujtent
Htiine tibi tdxct xt!\nxzs, ^asnmmxiiz, pTftamnr.
This rhyming Epitaph, likewise, was probably the work of some
monk : — " giic ixcti in tnmia
Jlosumunlii non Jlosamuuia
lion «iiokt, sfi ohi,
(Quae tiiffkr^ 0olct."
Returning from thence to Oxford, after dinner we proceeded
on our journey, and passed through Ewhelme, a Royal Palace,
in which some almspeople are supported by an allowance from the
Crown. Nettlebed, a Village.
We went through the little town of Henley; from hence the
Chiltern Hills bear north in a continued ridge, and divide the
counties of Oxford and Buckingham.
We passed Maidenhead.
Windsor, a Royal Castle, supposed to have been begun by King
Arthur, its Buildings much encreased by Edioard III. The situation
is entirely worthy of being a Royal Residence, a more beautiful being
64

^ Sournco into ^nglantr. 41
scarce to be found. For from the brow of a gentle rising it enjoys
the prospect of an even and green country; its front commands a
valley extending every way, and chequered with arable lands and
pasturage, cloathed up and down with Groves, and watered by that
gentlest of Rivers, the Thames ; behind rise several Hills, but neither
steep nor very high, crowned with Woods, and seeming designed by
Nature herself for the purpose of Hunting.
The Kings of England, invited by the deliciousness of the place,
very often retire hither ; and here was born the Conqueror of France,
the glorious King Edward III., who built the Castle new from the
ground, and thoroughly fortified it with Trenches, and Towers of
square stone, and having soon after subdued in battle John King of
France, and David King of Scotland, he detained them both prisoners
here at the same time. This Castle, besides being the Royal Palace,
and having some magnificent Tombs of the Kings of England, is
famous for the ceremonies belonging to the Knights of the Garter;
this order was instituted by Edward IIL, the same who triumphed
so illustriously over YJm'g John of France. The Knights of the Garter
are strictly chosen for their military virtues, and antiquity of family.
They are bound by solemn oath and vow to mutual and perpetual
friendship among themselves, and to the not avoiding any danger
whatever, or even death itself, to support by their joint endeavours
the Honour ofthe Society; they are stiled. Companions of the Garter,
from their wearing below the left knee a purple Garter, inscribed
in letters ofgold, with Honi soil qui mal y pense — i.e.. Evil to him
who evil thinks : this they wear upon the left leg, in memory of one
which happened to untie, was let fall by a great Lady, passionately
loved by Edward, while she was dancing, and was immediately
snatched up by the King ; who to do honour to the Lady, not out
of any trifling gallantry, but with a most serious and honourable
purpose, dedicated it to the legs of the most distinguished nobility.
The ceremonies of this Society are celebrated every year at Windsor, 6;

4^ 'KnwQtx'avk ^orietg Brprints.

on .Sy. George's day, the tutelar Saint of the Order, the King presid
ing ; and the custom is, that the Knights Companions should hang
up their helmet and shield, with their arms blazoned on it, in sorne
conspicuous part of the Church.
There are three principal and very large Courts in Windsor
Castle, which give great pleasure to the beholders; the first is
enclosed with most elegant Buildings of white Stone, flat roofed,
and covered with lead ; here the Knights of the Garter are lodged ;
in the middle is a detached house, remarkable for its high tower,
which the Governor inhabits; in this is the public Kitchen, well
furnished with the proper utensils, besides a spacious Dining-room,
where all the poor Knights eat at the same table; for into this
Society of the Garter, the King and Sovereign elect, at his own
choice, certain persons who must be gentlemen of three descents,
and such as for their age and straitness of their fortunes, are fitter
for saying their prayers, than for the service of ^^'ar ; to each of them
is assigned a Pension of eighteen pounds per annum, and cloaths ;
the chief institution of so magnificent a foundation is, that they should
say their daily prayers to God for the King's safety, and the happy
administration of the Kingdom, to which purpose they attend the
service, meeting twice every day at Chapel. The left side of this
Court is ornamented by a most magnificent Chapel of one hundred
and thirty-four paces in length, and sixteen in breadth ; in this are
eighteen seats fitted up in the time of Edicard III, for an equal
number of Knights. This venerable building is decorated with the
noble Monuments oi Edward IV, , Henry VI. and J'lIL, and of his
wife Queen Jane. It receives from the Royal liberality the annual
income of two thousand pounds, and that still much encreased by the
munificence of Edward III. and Henry VII. The greatest Princes in
Christendom ha\'e taken it for the highest honour to be admitted into
the Order of the Garter ; and since its first institution, about twenty
Kings, besides those oi England, who are the So\creigns of it, not to
66

^ Sourncy into (Englanti. 43
mention Dukes and persons of the greatest figure, have been of it.
It consists of twenty-six companies.
In the inward Choir of the Chapel, are hung up sixteen Coats of
Arms, Swords, and Banners, among which are those of Charles V.
and Rodolpus II., Emperors; of Philip of Spain; Henry III. of
France ; Frederick IL of Denmark, etc. ; of Casimer, Count Palatine
of the Rhine; and other Christian Princes, who have been chosen
into this Order.
In the back Choir, or additional Chapel, are shewn Preparations
made by Cardinal Wolsey, who was afterwards capitally * punished,
for his own Tomb, consisting of eight large Brazen Columns placed
round it, and nearer the Tomb four others in the shape of Candle
sticks — the Tomb itself is of white and black Marble — all which are
reserved, according to report, for the Funeral of Queen Elizabeth.
The expenses already made for that purpose are estimated at upwards
of ;^6o,ooo. In the same Chapel is the Surcoat of Edward IIL,
and the Tomb of Edward Fines, Earl of Lincoln, Baron Clinton
and Say, Knight of the most noble Order of the Garter, and formerly
Lord High Admiral of England.
The second Court of Windsor Castle stands upon higher ground,
and is enclosed with Walls of great strength, and beautified with fine
Buildings, and a Tower ; it was an antient Castle, of which old
annals speak in this manner : King Edward, a.d. 1359, began a
New Building in that part of the Casde of Windsor where he was
bom, for which reason he took care it should be decorated with
larger and finer Edifices than the rest; in this Part were kept
Prisoners John, King of France, and David, King of Scots, over
whom Edward Triumphed at one and the same time. It was by
their advice, struck with the advantage of its Situadon, and with the

* This was a strange blunder to be m.ide, so near the time, about so remarkable
a person, unless he concluded that whoever displeased Henry VIII. was, of
course, put to death. 67

44 ^ungerbgle .Soctrtg aReprtnts.

Sums paid for their Ransom, that, by degrees, this Casde stretched
to such magnificence, as to appear no longer a Fortress, but a Town
of proper extent, and impregnable to any human Force; this par
ticular part of the Casde was built at the Sole Expence of the
King of Scotland, except one Tower, which, from its having been
Erected by the Bishop of Winchester, Prelate of the Order, is called
Winchester Tower,* there are a hundred steps to it, so ingeniously
contrived, that horses can easily ascend them ; it is an hundred and
fifty paces in circuit ; within it are preserved all manner of arms
necessary for the defence of the place.
The third Court is much the largest of any, built at the Expence
of the captive King of France; as it stands higher, so it greatly
excels the two former in splendour and elegance ; it is one hundred
and forty-eight paces in length, and ninety-seven in breadth ; in
the middle of it is a Fountain of very clear Water, brought under
ground at an excessive Expence, from the distance of four Miles ;
towards the east are magnificent Apartments, destined for the Royal
Household ; towards the west is a Tennis Court, for the amusement
of the Court ; on the north side are the Royal Apartments, consist
ing of magnificent Chambers, Halls, and Bathing-rooms, consisting
of a Private Chapel, the Roof of which is embellished with Golden
Roses and Fleur-de-lis ; in this, too, is that very large banquetting-
room, seventy-eight paces long, and thirty wide, in which the
Knights of the Garter annually celebrate the Memory of their
tutelar Saint — St, George — vvith a Solemn and most Pompous Ser
vice. From hence runs a Walk of incredible beauty, three hundred
and eighty paces in length, set round on every side with Supporters
of Wood, which sustain a Balcony, from whence the Nobility and
Persons of Distinction can take the pleasure of seeing Hunting and
Hawking in a Lawn of sufficient space; for the Fields and Meadows,
* This is confounded with ihe round Tower.
6S

^ loui-nc2 into ^nglanti. 45
clad with a variety of Plants and Flowers, swell gradually into Hills of
perpetual Verdure quite up to the Castle, and at the bottom stretch
out into an extended Plain, that strikes the Beholders with delight.
Besides what has been already mentioned, there are worthy of
notice here, two Bathing-rooms, ceiled and wainscotted with Look
ing-glass ; the Chamber in which Henry VI. was born ; Queen
Elizabeth's Bed-chamber, where is a Table of red Marble with white
Streaks ; a Gallery, everywhere ornamented with Emblems and
Figures ; a Chamber, in which are the Royal Beds of Henry VII.
and his Queen, of Edward VI., of Henry VIII. and of Anne Bullen,
all of them eleven feet square, and covered with Quilts shining with
Gold and Silver; Queen Elizabeth's Bed, with curious coverings of
Embroidery, but not quite so long or large as the others ; a Piece of
Tapestry, in which is represented Claris, King of France, with an
Angel presenting to him the Fleur-de-lis, to be borne in his Arms;
for before this time the Kings of France bore three Toads in their
Shield, instead of which they afterwards placed three Fleur-de-lis on
a blue field ; this antique Tapestry is said to have been taken from
a King of France, while the English were masters there. We were
shewn there, among other things, the Horn of an Unicorn, of about
eight spans and a half in length, valued at above ;^io,ooo; the
Bird of Paradise, three spans long, three fingers broad, having a
blue bill of the length of half an inch, the upper part of its head
yellow, the nether part of an colour; a Httle lower, from either
side of its throat, stick out some reddish feathers, as well as from its
back and the rest of its body; its wings, of a yellow colour, are twice
as long as the Bird itself; from its back grow out length-ways two
fibres or nerves, bigger at their ends, but like a pretty strong thread,,
of a leaden colour, inclining to black, with which, as it has no feet,
it is said to fasten itself to trees, when it wants to rest ; a Cushion
most curiously wrought by Queen Elizabeth's own hands.
In the precincts of Windsor, on the other side the Thames, both
69

46 ^ungerbgle ^acizt^ Reprints.
whose banks are joined by a Bridge of Wood, is Eaton, a well-built
College, and famous School for Polite Letters, founded by Henry VI. ,
where, besides a Master, eight Fellows and Chanters, sixty Boys
are maintained Gratis. They are taught Grammar, and reraain in
the School, till upon Trial made of their Genius and Progress in
Study, they are sent to the University of Cambridge.
As we were returning to our Inn, we happened to meet some
country People celebrating their Harvest-Home ; their last load of
Corn they Crown with Flowers, having besides an Image richly
dressed, by which, perhaps, they would signify Ceres, this they keep
moving about, while Men and Women, Men and Maid Servants,
riding through the Streets in the Cart, shout as loud as they can, till
they arrive at the Barn. The Farmers here do not bind up their
Corn in Sheaves, as they do with us, but directly as they have
Reaped or Mowed it, put it into Carts, and convey it into their
Barns. We went through the Town of Staines.
Hampton Court, a Royal Palace, magnificently Built with Brick,
by Cardinal Wolsey, in ostentation of his Wealth, where he enclosed
five very ample Courts, consisting of noble Edifices, in very beautiful
work. Over the Gate in the Second Area is the Queen's Device — a
Golden Rose — with this Motto : Dieu et mon droit. On the inward
side of this Gate are the EflSgies of the twelve Roman Emperors, in
plaster. The chief Area is paved with square Stone; in its centre is
a Fountain that throws up Water, covered with a gilt Crown, on the
Top of which is a Statue of Justice, supported by Columns of black
and white Marble. The Chapel of this Palace is most splendid, in
which the Queen's Closet is most transparent, having its Windows of
Chrystal. We were led into two Chambers, called the Presence, or
Chambers of Audience, which shone with Tapestry of Gold and
Silver and Silk of different colours. Under the Canopy of State are
these Words, Embroidered in Pearl: Vivat Henricus Oetavus. Here
70

^ Sourneu into C!HngIanlr. 47

is, besides, a small Chapel, richly hung with Tapestry, where the
Queen performs her Devotions. In her Bed-chamber the Bed was
covered with very costly Coverlids of Silk. At no great distance
from this Room we were shewn a Bed, the Tester of which was
worked by Anne Bullen, and presented by her to her husband,
Henry VIIL. All the other Rooms, being very numerous, are
adorned with Tapestry of Gold, Silver, and Velvet, in some of which
were Woven History Pieces; in others, Turkish and American
dresses, all extremely natural.
In the Hall are these Curiosities : — a very clear looking glass,
ornamented with columns and htde images of alabaster; a Portrait
of Edward VI. , brother to Queen Elizabeth; the true portrait of
Lucretia; a Picture of the Battle of Pavia; the history of Christ's
Passion, carved in mother of pearl ; the portraits of Mary Queen of
Scots, who was beheaded, and her daughter; * the Picture of Ferdi
nand, Prince of Spain; and oi Philip, his son; that oi Henry VIIL,
under it was placed the Bible curiously written upon parchment; an
artificial sphere; several musical instruments; in the Tapestry are
represented Negroes riding upon Elephants. The bed in which
Edward VI. is said to have been born, and where his Mother Jane
Seymour died in child-bed. In one chamber were several exceed
ingly rich Tapestries, which are hung up when the Queen gives
audience to Foreign Ambassadors; there were numbers of cushions
ornamented with gold and silver; many counterpanes and coverlids
of beds lined with Ermine; in short, all the walls ofthe Palace shine
with gold and silver. Here is, besides, a certain cabinet called
Paradise, where besides that everything glitters so with silver, gold,
and jewels, as to dazzle one's eyes, there is a musical instrument
made all of glass except the strings. Afterwards we were led into
the Gardens, which are most pleasant; here we saw rosemary so
* Here are several mistakes. 71

48 ^ungrrbgle Societg Eeprints.
planted and nailed to the walls that it covered them entirely, which
is a method exceeding common in England.
Kingston, a Market Town.
Nonesuch, a royal retreat, in a place formerly called Cuddington,
a very healthful situation, chosen by King Henry VIII. for his
pleasure and retirement, and built by him with an excess of magnifi
cence and elegance, even to ostentation; one would imagine every
thing that architecture could perform to have been employed in this
work; there are everywhere so many statues that seem to breathe; so
many miracles of consummate art, so many casts that rival even the
perfection of Roman antiquity, that it may well claim and justify its
name of Nonesuch, being without an equal, or as the poet sung :
This which no equal has in Art or Fame,
Britons deservedly do Nonesuch name.
The Palace itself is so encompassed with Parks full of deer,
delicious Gardens, Groves ornamented with trellis work, cabinets of
verdure, and Walks so embowered by trees, that it seems to be a
place pitched upon by Pleasure herself to dwell in along with Health.
In the pleasure and artificial Gardens are many Columns and
Pyramids of Marble, two Fountains that spout water one round the
other like a pyramid, upon which are perched small birds that
stream water out of their bills. In the Grove of Diana is a very
agreeable Fountain, which Actceon turned into a Stag, as he was
sprinkled by the Goddess and her Nymphs, with Inscriptions.
There is besides another Pyramid of marble full of concealed pipes,
which spirt upon all who come within their reach.
Returned from thence to London.
We set out from London in a boat, and fell down the river, leaving
Greenwich, which we have spoken of before, on our right hand.
Barking, a Town in sight on the left.
Gravesend, a small Town, famous for the convenience of its port;
the largest Dutch ships usually call here. As we were to proceed
72

'B, Souuncp into (f^nglanli. 49
farther from hence by water, we took our last leave here of the noble
Bohemian, David Strziela, and his tutor Tobias Salandar, our con
stant fellow-travellers through France and England, they designing
to return home through Holland, we on a second tour into France;
but it pleased Heaven to put a stop to their design, for the worthy
Strziela was seized with a diarrhoea a few days before our departure,
and as we afterwards learned by letters from Salandar, died in a few
days of a violent fever in London.
Queenborough, we left the Casde on our right; a little, farther
we saw them fishing oysters out of the sea, which are nowhere in
greater plenty or perfection; witness Ortelius in his epitome, etc.
Whitstable, here we went ashore.
Canterbury, we came to it on foot; this is the seat of the Arch
bishop, Primate of all England, a very ancient town, and without
doubt of note in the time of the Romans.
Here are two Monasteries almost contiguous, namely of Christ
and St. Augustine, both of them once filled with Benedicdne Monks;
the former was afterwards dedicated to St. Thomas Becket, the name
of Christ being obliterated; it stands almost in the middle of the
Town, and with so much majesty lifts itself and its two Towers to a
stupendous height, that as Erasmus says, it strikes even those who
only see it at a distance with awe. In the Choir, which is shut up
with iron rails, are the following Monuments : —
King Henry IV., with his Wife Joan of Navarre, of white marble.
Nicholas Wooton, Privy Counsellor to Henry VIII.
Edward VI. , Mary and Elizabeth, Kings and Queens of England.
Of Prince Edward, Duke of Aquitain and Cornwall, and Earl of
Chester. Reginald Pole, with this Inscription : —
The Remains of Reginald Pole, Cardinal and Archbishop
of Canterbury.
Cardinal Chatillon. 73

50 Sungn-faglc Society i^eprints.

We were then shown the Chair in which the Bishops are placed,
when they are installed. In the Vesdbule of the Church, on the south
side, stands the Statues of three men armed, cut in stone, who slew
Thomas Becket, Archbishop of Canterbury, made a Saint for his
Martyrdom ; their names are adjoined, —
Ifusd. Jfusri. ^frri.*
Being tired with walking, we refreshed ourselves here with a
mouthful of bread, and some ale, and immediately mounted post
horses, and arrived about two or three o'clock in the morning at
Dover. In our way to it, which was rough and dangerous enough,
the following accident happened to us : our Guide or Postillion, a
youth, was before with two of our Company, about the distance of a
musket shot ; we by not following quick enough, had lost sight of our
friends ; we came afterwards to where the road divided ; on the right
it was down hill and marshy, on the left was a small hill. Whilst we
stopped here in doubt, and consulted which of the roads we should
take, we saw all on a sudden on our right hand some horsemen,
their stature, dress, and horses, exactly resembling those of our
friends. Giad of having found them again, we determined to set on
after them ; but it happened through God's mercy, that though we
called to them, they did not answer us, but kept on down the marshy
road, at such a rate, that their horses feet struck fire at every stretch;
which made us with reason begin to suspect that they were thieves,
having had warning of such ; or rather that they were nocturnal
spectres, who, as we were afterwards told, are frequently seen in
those places. There were likewise a great ma.x\y Jack Walanthorns,
so that we were quite seized with horror and amazement! But,
fortunately for us, our Guide soon after sounded his horn, and we

* This is another most inaccurate account. The murderers of Becket were
Tracy, Morvillc, Uritton, and Filzurse.
74

a Sournrg into €nglanti. 51
following the noise, turned down the left hand road, and arrived safe
to our companions, who, when we had asked them, if they had not
seen the horsemen who had gone by us? Answered, not a soul. Our
opinions according to custom were various on this matter ; but what
ever the thing was, we were without doubt in imminent danger, for
which we escaped, the glory is to be ascribed to God alone.
Dover, situated among Cliffs (standing where the Port itself was
originally, as may be gathered from Anchors, and parts of Vessels
dug up there), is famous more for the convenience of its Port, which
indeed is now much decayed, and its passage to France, than for
either its elegance, or populousness. This passage the most used,
and the shortest, is of thirty miles, which, with a favourable wind,
may be run over in five or six hours time, as we ourselves experienced;
some reckon it only eighteen miles to Calais, and to Boulogne sixteen
English miles, which, as Ortelius says in his Theatrum, are longer
than the Italian.
Here was a Church dedicated to St. Martin, by Vidred, King of
Kent, and a House belonging to the Knights Templars ; of either
there are now no remains. It is the seat of a Suffragan to the Arch
bishop of Canterbury, who, when the Archbishop is employed on
business of more consequence, manages the ordinary affairs, but
does not interfere with the Archiepiscopal jurisdiction. Upon a hill,
or rather rock, which, on its right side, is almost everywhere a preci
pice, a very extensive Casde rises to a surprising height, in size like
a litde City, extremely well fortified, and thick set with Towers,
and seems to threaten the sea beneath. Matthew Paris calls it, the
door and key of England. The ordinary people have taken it into
their heads that it was built by Julius Caesar, it is likely it might by
the Romans, from those British bricks in the Chapel, which they
made use of in their foundations.— &^ Camden's Britannia.
After we had dined, we took leave of England. 75

52 ^ungerijgle Societg Erprints.

§1 Sfjori ^istription of ^ngknir.
BRITAIN', consisting of the two kingdoms oi England anA Scot
land, is the largest Island in the World, encompassed by the Ocean,
the German and French Seas. The largest and southern portion of
it is England, so named from the Angli, who quitted the little terri
tory still called Angel in the Kingdom of Denmark, took possession
here. It is governed by its own King, who owns no superior but
God. It is divided into 39 Counties, to which 13 in Wales were
added by Henry VIIL, the first who distributed that principality
into Counties; over each of these in times of danger a Lord Lieu
tenant nominated by the King, presides with an unlimited power.
Every year some gentleman, an inhabitant of the place, is appointed
Sheriff; his office is to collect the public monies, to raise fines, or
to make seizures, and to account for it to the Treasury, to attend
upon the Judges, and put their sentence in execution, to empannel
the Jury who sit upon facts, and return their verdict to the Judges
(who in England are only such of the law, and not of the fact), to
convey the condemned to execution, and to determine in lesser
causes, for the greater are tried by the Judges, formerly called
Travelling Judges, now Judges of Assize; these go their Circuits
through the counties twice every year to hear causes, and pronounce
sentence upon prisoners.
As to Ecclesiastical Jurisdiction, after the Popes had assigned a
Church and a Parish to every Priest, Honorius, Archbishop of Can
terbury, about the year 636, began to divide England in the same
manner into Parishes. As it has two provinces, so it has two Arch
bishops, the one of Canterbury, Primate and Metropolitan of All
England, the other of York; subject to these are 25 Bishops, viz.:
22 to Canterbury, and the remaining three to York,
The soil is fruitful, and abounds with cattle, which inclines the
inhabitants rather to feeding than ploughing, so that near a third of
the land is left uncultivated for grazing. The climate is most tem
perate at all times, and the air never heavy, consequently maladies
are scarcer, and less Physic is used there than anywhere else. There
are but few Rivers. Though the Soil is productive it bears no wine,
76

^ Sournru into d^nglanti. 53

but that want is supplied from abroad by the best kinds, as of
Orleans, Gascon, Rhenish, and Spanish.
The general drink is beer, which is prepared from barley, and is
exceedingly well tasted, but strong, and what soon fuddles. There
are many hills without one tree or any springs, which produce a very
short and tender grass, and supply plenty of food to sheep. Upon
these wander numerous flocks, extremely white, and whether from
the temperature of the air, or goodness of the earth, bearing softer
and finer fleeces than those of any other country. This is the true
Golden Fleece, in which consist the chief riches of the inhabitants,
great sums of money being brought into the country by merchants,
chiefly for that article of trade. The dogs here are particularly good.
It has Mines of Gold, Silver, and Tin (of which all manner of table
utensils are made, in brightness equal to silver and used all over
Europe), of Lead, and of Iron, but not much of the latter. The
horses are small but swift. Glass Houses are in plenty here.

%i % glanmrs of t^t (Snglisb.
The English are serious hke the Germans, lovers of Show, liking
to be followed wherever they go by whole troops of servants, who
wear their masters arms in silver, fastened to their left arms, a
ridicule they deservedly lay under. They excel in dancing and
music. They are active and lively, though of a thicker make than
the French; they cut their hair close on the middle of the head,
letting it grow on either side; they are good Sailors and better
Pirates, cunning, treacherous, and thievish; above 300 are said to be
hanged annually in London; beheading with them is less infamous
than hanging. They give the wall as the place of honour. Hawking
is the general sport of the gentry. They are more polite in eating
than the French, devouring less bread, but more meat, which they
roast in perfection. They put a great deal of sugar in their drink.
Their Beds are covered with Tapestry, even those of Farmers. They
are often molested with the Scurvy, said to have first crept into
England with the Norman Conquest. Their houses are commonly
of two stories, except in London, where they are of three and four,
though but seldom of four; they are built of wood, those of the
77

54 ^ungerbglc Society Eeprinis.

richer sort with bricks; their roofs are low, and where the owner has
money, covered with Lead.
They are powerful in the field, successful against their enemies,
impatient of anything like slavery, vastly fond of great noises that
fill the ear, such as the firing of cannons, drums, and the ringing of
bells, so that it is common for a number of them, that have a glass
in their heads, to go up into some belfreyand ring the bells for hours
together for the sake of exercise. If they see a Foreigner, very well
made or particularly handsome, they will say, " Lt is a pity he is not
an Englishman." %\t lllnstrions J'amilies of ^nglaittr.
Thomas Howard. — Duke of Norfolk, hereditary Marshal of England;
the Dutchy is extinct for rebellion, the last Duke being be
headed.
Grey. — Duke of Suffolk, attainted under Queen Mary.
Philip Howard. — Earl of Arundel, in his mother's right, and of
Surrey by his father, son of the above mentioned Duke of
Norfolk, he himself condemned for high Treason, and his
titles forfeited.
Edward Vere. — Earl of Oxford, hereditary Chamberlain of England.
Percy. — Earl of Northumberland, descended from the Dukes of
Brabant.
Charles Nevill. — Earl of Westmoreland, banished into Holland,
and deprived of his fortune and dignities for rebellion.
Talbot. — Earl of Shrewsbury.
Grey. — Earl of Kent, has but a small Estate.
Stanley. — Earl of Derby, King of Man.
Manners. — Earl of Rutland.
Somerset. — Earl of Worcester, descended from a bastard of the
Somerset Family, which itself is of the royal Family of the
Plantagenets.
Clifford. — Earl of Cumberland.
Ratcliff. — Earl of Sussex.
Hastings. — Earl of Huntingdon, of the line of York, by the
mother's side.
BouRCHiER. — Earl of Bath.
78

a Sournry into (England. 55

Ambrose Sutton alias Dudley.— Eari of Warwick, died a few years
since childless.
Wriothesly. — Eari of Southampton.
Russel. — Eari of Bedford.
Herbert. — Earl of Pembroke.
Edward Seymour.— Eari of Herford, son of the Duke of Somer
set, who was beheaded in the reign of Edward VI.
Robert Sutton or Dudley.— Earl of Leicester, brother of the Eari
of Warwick, died a few years ago.
Robert D'Evreux.— Eari of Essex, and Ewe in Normandy, created
hereditary Marshal of England in 1598.
Charles Howard. — Of the Norfolk family, created Eari of Not
tingham 1597, Lord High Admiral of England, and Privy
Counsellon
Fiesnes. — Earl of Lincoln.
Brown. — Viscount Montacute.
Howard. — Of the Norfolk family. Viscount Bindon.
Nevil. — Baron Abergavenny ; this Barony is controverted.
ToucHET. — Baron Audley.
ZoucH. — Baron Zouch.
Peregrin Bertie. — Baron Willoughby of Eresby and Brooke,
Governor of Berwick.
Berkley. — Baron Berkley, of the antient family of the Kings of
Denmark.
Parker. — Baron Morley.
Dacre. — Baron Dacre of Gyllesland, this Barony is vacant.
Dacre. — Baron Dacre of the South, he died four years since, and
the Barony devolved on his daughter.
Brooke. — Baron Cobham, Warden of the Cinque Ports.
Stafford. — Baron Stafford, reduced to want, he is heir to the family
of the Duke of Buckingham, who were hereditary Constables
of England.
Gray. — Baron Gray of Wilton.
Scroop. — Baron Scroop of Boulton.
Sutton.. — Baron Dudley.
Stourton. — Baron Stourton.
Nevill. — Baron Latimer, died some years since, without heirs male,
the title controverted.
LuMLEY. — Baron Luraley. 79

56 ^unger&glc Socictg i^eprints.

Blunt. — Baron Mountjoy.
Ogle. — Baron Ogle.
Darcy. — Baron Darcy.
Parker. — Baron Montegle, son and heir of Baron Morley, he has
his Barony in right of his mother, ofthe family of Stanley.
Sandys. — Baron Sandys.
Vaux. — Baron Vaux.
Windsor. — Baron Windsor.
Wentworth. — Baron Wentworth.
Borough. — Baron Borough, reduced to want.
Baron Mordaunt.
Baron Eure.
Baron Rich.
Baron Sheffield.
Baron North, Privy Counsellor, and Treasurer of the Household.
Baron Hunsdon, Privy Counsellor and Lord Chamberlain.
Sackville. — Baron Buckhurst, Privy Counsellor.
Cecil, Thomas. — Baron Burleigh, son of the Treasurer, yet a
child ; he holds the Barony in right of his mother, daughter
of the Earl of Rutland.
Howard of Maltravers, son of the Earl of Arundel, not yet restored
in blood.
Baron Cheny.
Baron Cromwell.
Baron Wharton.
Baron Willoughby of Parham.
Baron Pagett, in exile, attainted.
Baron Chandois.
Baron St John.
Baron Delewark, his ancestors took the King of France prisoner.
Baron Compton, has squandered almost all his substance.
Baron Norris.
Howard, Thomas, second son of the Duke of Norfolk, Baron
Avidley of Saffron Walden, in his mother's right.
Howard, William, third son of the Duke of Norfolk, is neither a
Baron, nor yet restored in blood.
IT he ffiniJ.
80

A

NOTICE.
S only a few Copies of the " ^mXQ&xb'gh" remain
unsubscribed for," Members who desire any

names of Friends added to the List of Members,
are requested to communicate at once with the
Secretary.

No. V. of the " ^ungerbule " will contain a Selec
tion of Rare Historical Ballads, containing
many Variations from hitherto Published Texts.

IVill be Published shortly, in Parts,
"Pibliogrflpliral ^m^x^fy .
being a Catalogue of the Rarest Works
in the English Language, with Prices
obtained at Sales, &c., &c.
The Numbers will appear, each
Month. Stibscription : Two Shillings
a Quarter. Comfminications to be Addressed to
E. M. GOLDSMID,
30 CASTLE TERRACE, EDINBURGH.

^JTVERJT^

YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

M^*''

li«;