1 \/<S \»w"

AND
ANDERINC

A Cruise in the'Lancashire Witch''

Br
F- Francis

YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY

c

FROM THE COLLECTION MADE BY
CHARLES SHELDON B.A. 1890
OF BOOKS ON NATURAL HISTORY
EXPLORATION ' HUNTING & FISHING

GIFT OF FRANCIS P. GARVAN
B.A. 1897

WAR, WAYES, AND WANDERINGS.

A CBUISE IN TEE "LANGASHIBE WITCH."

BY
F. FEANCIS.

IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. IL

LONDON:
SAMPSON LOW, MAESTON, SBABLE, & RIVINGTON,
CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET.
1881.
(All rights reserved.)

LONDON :
I'RINTED BY WILLIAM: CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED,
STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS.

CONTENTS OF VOL. II.

CHAPTEE PA(jE
¦J I. Expedition up Country ... ... l
II. Siam — Conclusion ... ... 23
III. Chentabun ... ... ... 41
IV. Nagasaki (Japan) ... ... 57
V. The Inland Sea ... ... ... 83
VI. Kobe ... ... ... ... 96
VII. Akrima ... ... ... ... 106
VIII. Yokohama and Tokio ... ... 121
IX. The North Pacific — Yokohama and
San Francisco ... ... ... 142
X. San Francisco ... ... ... 168
XI. En route for Alaska ... ... 191
•^ XII. Cook's Inlet ... ... ... 218
si XIII. Chignick Bay ... ... ... 234
vJ XIV. Port Moller ... ... ... 263
XV. The Seal Islands ... ... ... 288

WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.

CHAPTEE I.
EXPEDITION UP COUNTET.
We had been in Bangkok about a fortnight,
when we started on an expedition up
country. Our plans were, as usual, "to
go somewhere or other and do whatever
happened." A vague, perhaps, but, on the
whole, an agreeable method. If sport fell
in our way we were repared for it, and
if the trip should resolve itself simply into
a question of " loafing," we had studied the
art and were thoroughly familiar with the
part we should be called upon to play.
After weighing the varied information
received on the subject, our chances of
VOL. II, B

2 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
the former seemed slight. There is un
doubtedly grand sport to be obtained in
Siam; but to a large party such as ours
the difficulties of travelling and procuring
provisions are almost insuperable, or, at any
rate, only to be overcome by a great
expense of time. The party consisted of
Mr. Newman, H  , S  and myself,
Fritz, Said, Newman's native servant
Lazarus (a Madras cook), and a crowd of
boatmen. The Kalahom lent a large steam
launch to tow us to Canburee, and a couple
of gondolas, each manned by seven men and
affording comfortable sleeping accommoda
tion in their little deck cabins for two
persons. Newman had his own boat, one of
a simUar description.
The first part of the journey lay through
canals, connecting the Meinam with the
Tachin and this latter river with the
Meklong. The country was uninterestingly
flat, and partially flooded owing to the late
heavy rains up country. But when, as the
afternoon wore on, we issued from these
narrow, overhung water-ways and floated

EXPEDITION UP COUNTRY.

upon the broad Meklong, its appearance
was entirely changed. Bananas, tall clumps
of graceful bamboos with feathery foliage
not unlike the willow, stalwart mangoes,
stately palms, tree ferns, and the great
embossed trunks of many a " green-robed
senator " whose name I knew not, fringed
with rich scenery the banks of a river far
broader than the Thames. On we ghded
up its bold sweeping reaches, dotted here
and there with tiny eyots, and far away
off in the distance could be discerned the
peaks of purple mountains rising into the
warm afternoon sky. Unseen birds —
" — curious chanters of tlie wood,
That warble forth Dame Nature's lays ''-^
carolled joyously in their leafy cloisters as
we stole quietly along under the banks ;
and ever and anon we happened upon little
villages ensconsed beneath the trees, whose
Hght-hearted inhabitants would quit their
employments or open-air La Khon, and
rush to gaze a moment laughingly at our
string of boats as it swept slowly by.
Deeper and deeper waxed the golden haze ;

4 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
the shadows had reached their utmost
length, " the good-night blush of eve was
waning slow," when the pointed roofs of
Eatchaburee came in sight. We drew
up on the right bank of the river, near the
centre of the town, which in its general
characteristics resembles Bangkok on a
small scale.
H  and Newman went at once to
visit the Governor, whilst S  and I took
a short walk. It was too late to explore
much of the town. We noticed many gangs
of prisoners in chains. In Siam men are
imprisoned for debt, and as their gambling
propensities make them very reckless about
incmring it, the number of chain gangs
that may be seen about the towns is start
ling. The system of domestic slavery and
the condition of slaves in Siam is probably
better than in any other part of the world.
In the course of the evening the Governor
came to the boats to visit us. He is one
of the Kalahom's numerous sons, by name
Phra Satcha Pirom. Having passed some
years in England, he has acquired a good

EXPEDITION UP COUNTRY.

knowledge of the language, and he still
retains many pleasant recollections of his
experiences there. He informed us that
Eatchaburee contains ten thousand inhabi
tants. We slept in the boats and got under way
next morning at 8.30. During the day's
journey we were hardly ever out of sight
of river-side villages and towns. The
inhabitants appeared to be principally
engaged in fishing, a variety of nets being
used for this purpose. Amongst them I
noticed stake-nets, seines, casting-nets, a
kind of folding sparrow-net, and a large
square-mouthed bag-net, rigged on a frame
work attached to shears, by which it
was raised and lowered into the water.
Frequently also I observed men trolling or
spinning with long bamboo rods. Fish
swarm in the river, and can be seen in
cessantly rising and leaping from the water.
Children, too, appear to be almost as nume
rous. Were not the old physiological theory
connecting fish diet with large families
exploded, one might refer to it as the cause.

6 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
Certainly I never saw such tribes of children
elsewhere. In the neighbourhood of the
villages they literally covered the banks.
The weather was charming, and lying at
ease in the open, windowless, doorless cabins,
whilst the gondolas glided smoothly over
the stream, was the most dreamy, luxurious
mode of travelling. We did not halt until
evening ; then, more by good luck than
judgment, we chanced upon a spot free
from mosquitoes. Canburee was stiU a
long day's journey distant ; it was necessary
to start again, therefore, at sunrise.
The scenery now grew wilder and more
varied. Wooded heights rose here and
there abruptly out of the river ; villages
became rarer and more rare, and travelhng
house-boats, hitherto numerous, were seldom
met with. Monkeys peeped curiously out
of the bamboo clumps and cautiously with
drew; occasionaUy peacocks were heard.
This seems the original home of kingfishers
—their Eden, or perhaps their Paradise. In
every reach numbers are poised hi mid air,
motionless save for the rapid fluttering

EXPEDITION UP COUNTRY.

of their wings as they search the crystal
shallows. Again and again, if the search
be fruitless, the unwearying pirates wiU
shift position ; but at length rewarded, with
suddenly closed pinions, they drop Hke
stones into the sunny ripples, scarcely a
splash marking then unerring success.
SoHtary, in pairs, trios, even quartettes,
they perch on overhanging boughs, decayed
stumps, or exposed roots in the deep nook-
shotten banks, patiently watchful tUl some
unwary fish glance near the surface. Short
shrift is his. Straightway a brilUant
meteor flashes through the sunHght, and
almost brushing the waters with his silvery
prey, the kingfisher skims towards a
favourite haunt, and vanishes through heavy
festoons and traiUng treUiswork of creepers
into the dim recesses of the jungle beyond —
" Where the glossy kingfisher
" Flutters when noon heats are near.''
" Give me my gun. Tip ! "
" Four to one on the bird," he says, hand
ing it out to me.
However, the second barrel drops one — a

8 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
gorgeous blue bird, with auburn breast.
Having nothing better to do, I skin it, and
in deference to the superstitions ancient
mariners held with regard to the halcyon,
scatter a few loose feathers on the lazy
flood, and breathe a prayer to the gods for
fortune and fine weather. Not less remark
able than their numbers is their variety,
and the great size attained by some of
them. I have shot specimens of the me-
talHc green kingfisher, with tawny breast,
over fourteen inches in length, and I have
seen birds that considerably exceeded this
size. Kingfishers' feathers were formerly an
article of exportation from Siam, but their
export has been latterly forbidden by law.
About dusk we arrive at Canburee, a town
of five or six thousand inhabitants. For
merly it belonged to the Burmese, but was
taken from them in one of their wars with the
Siamese, and has, I believe, since that time,
steadily declined in size and importance.
It is prettUy situated at the junction of two
rivers of nearly equal size. We followed
that on the left, and rowing next day (for

EXPEDITION UP COUNTRY. 9
the first time, as the steam launch returned
from Canburee), we proceeded about eight
miles up stream, and stopped, before noon,
at a floating house, near a bamboo summer-
house belonging to the Eegent. Here the
Governor of the district met us and placed
his resources at our disposal. It was too
hot to do anything until the afternoon ; so
we breakfasted, and then lounged about
the floating house, fishing with extempore
tackle and listening to the prospects of
sport held forth by the natives.
During a pause in the conversation
S  , who was reclining at ease, accord
ing to his custom, on the bamboo matting
of the floor, suddenly sprang up with a yell
and a howl.
" Oh ! oh ! oh ! Hi ! cut the trousers off
me ! Cut 'em off, I teU ye ! He's up my
leg! Oh! the beast!"
In the midst of performing a kind of
Cherokee war-dance he succeeded in tying
his pocket-handkerchief round his leg. We,
from laughter, were rendered powerless to
help him.

10 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
The handkerchief fixed, he began again,
louder than ever. "Cut the trousers off,
I tell you ! Cut 'em off, quick ! Oh ! oh !
oh ! he's up my leg ! I've tied him in."
"What is it, Tip?"
" A snake — a young crocodUe — a lizard —
some slimy reptile. I can feel him. There
he is, the brute ! He's moving about."
" It's a Hzard Cherry was hunting," said
Newman. " Shake him out, Tip."
At length, removing the handkerchief,
S  began gingerly shaking the leg of
his trousers, with a face no pencU could
ever depict. Meanwhile Cherry, Newman's
terrier, waited at the bottom of the leg,
watching, as if at a rat hole, for his escaped
prey. Presently, down came the lizard, and
with a dash Cherry secm-ed him, whUe
S  spasmodically tucked his trousers
inside his socks, and went to the table for
a drink after his exertions.
In the afternoon H  and Newman
went out with the boats, netting; S 
and I for a prowl in the jungle. They took
a few fish; we saw nothing but a few

EXPEDITION UP COUNTRY. 11
jungle-cock, although one of oiu' prahns,*
when he returned, told the Governor that
he had seen a kwang. ¦[• As he had not
attempted to point it out to us, I fancy
he evolved the animal out of his own
inner consciousness, in order to humour
His despotic ExeeUency, who thoroughly
appreciates the corrective properties of
that most excellent plant, the rattan, and
might, had he seen nothing, have visited
on his feeHngs the shortcomings of his
vision. Two short mornings' work now brought
us to a point where a large bamboo house
was being erected for the Eegent, who in
tended shortly to visit this district. Here
the affable old Governor, who had preceded
us again, received us. The large dining-
table and chairs he had transported from
below for our use, were placed under a
broad-spreading tree, and about a dozen
prahns (a murderous crew of viUains, unless
appearances belied them) stood ready to do
* Prdhn, a huntsman or shikaree.
I Kwang, a species of deer.

12 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.

our bidding. The elephants were expected
to arrive next day.
"How about tigers?" was our first
query. " Tigers ! " said His Excellency, taking
a long puU at the French brandy. " Oh,
they kUl everything."
This was encouraging. As his eye
wandered affectionately towards the bottle,
he was assisted to another heel-tap (he took
it " neat ") and was again questioned.
" Would you kill tigers ? The jungle
is fuU of them. You need not seek them
— they will come."
StiU his glance lingered round the
bottle. More brandy and more tigers. In
proportion as the brandy decreased, the
tigers increased, until I began to wonder
what we should do with such a lot of tigers'
skins. The prahns were despatched in opposite
du'ections into the jungle, to erect two
watching-places. Meanwhile we spent the
day variously. H  and Newman went
out netting ; S  strolled off with a gun

EXPEDITION UP COUNTRY. 13
somewhere ; I employed the time in sketch
ing. Later on, H  and I partook of
an early dinner, excellently prepared by
Newman's Madras cook; soup, fish, -peacock,
curry, and a sweet omelette finding place in
its extensive menu.
Then, shouldering our rifles, we started,
leaving Newman and S  to an evening
of partaga-partagas and ecarte. H 
traveUed down, I up, the river. A short
row brought us to some farm huts,
where we landed. Here a young calf, for
bait, was awaiting us. The animal ap
peared fuUy conscious of his destiny, and
protested against it with a voice like a
brazen trumpet. This was satisfactory ; for
if there was a tiger in Siam with an affec
tion for veal, I thought he could not pos
sibly resist the invitation. Dusk was deepen
ing when we struck into the shadow-fraught
jungle. Before me, along the winding
track which led through its gloomy depths,
flitted the figm-es of my wild and villainous
looking prahns. I might have been leaving
the outer world, and foUowing some ghostly

14 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
messengers into the realms of darkness,
were it not that all vain imaginings were
dispelled by the brazen utterances of the
rebellious caK borne in our wake. Mighty
teak trees, " branch-charmed by the silent
stars," reared their gaunt figures in our
way, and the twisted, straggling arms of
giant creepers hung clutchingly down from
above. Bamboos creaked and swayed with
unearthly, unaccountable noises ; but scath-
less we passed through aU these forest
terrors, and reached at length an open
space, where the prahns had decreed I
was to watch the night. The caK-bearers
fastened their charge to a stake and left us.
The prahns and I cHmbed into the platform
they had formed of bamboos in a tree hard
by, and settled down to wait. By-and-by
the moon rose. By this time I was busUy
engaged in quietly battling with the swarms
of mosquitoes that attacked me on all
sides, and stung through my flax coat and
breeches as if they were gauze. As some
one remarked after being attacked by in
sects of another description, "had they

EXPEDITION UP COUNTRY.' 15
been unanimous," they would have removed
me from the platform. However, I clung
on and cursed.
Several things occurred to me now. I
discovered that prolonged sitting on a bam
boo platform was not exactly luxurious ; it
occurred to me that if smoke was forbidden,
I might, at any rate, have brought an un-
Hghted pipe to puU at ; I bethought me with
repentance of the flask Newman had offered
and I had refused just before starting ; I
reahzed clearly the fact that the mosquitoes
were far too numerous and blood-thirsty to
aUow this night watching for tigers to be an
altogether peaceful and unruffled joy ; I
began to reflect that the tigers had not begun
absolutely to crowd the calf yet ; and, lastly,
it dawned upon me that that imbecile brute
had not uttered a sound since he had been
tied up. This was serious, because my
scheme was for the calf to make a row as
if he was in pain or trouble, and then for
any charitable old tiger that happened to
be stroUing about to feel touched and come
to shepherd him, under which circum-

16 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
stances we should all be gratified. By
means of complicated signs I consulted
with the prahns. They were anxious to
cut the caH's throat. This I objected to,
on musical grounds, EventuaUy they de
scended to expostulate with him. I had a
sort of suspicion that they were going to cut
his throat a Httle, or otherwise tune him
in some barbarous manner, so I remained
where I was. Besides, I reflected that they
might be accustomed to be jumped upon
by midnight tigers, and consequently knew
the proper mode of receiving such atten
tions, whereas, in my ignorance, I should
probably give the beast needless offence.
My friends the prahns did not waste time
recklessly below themselves, but, having cut
some creepers, manufactured a long rope,
one end of which they attached to the caK's
hind legs, the other brought with them
to the platform. Then they began to jerk
him about at intervals, with considerable
freedom. But the calf, an obstinate, dis
obliging creature, pretended to be asleep.
My impression is that he was as cunning as

EXPEDITION UP COUNTRY. 17
a jackdaw, and knew all about it. He felt
that we were " playing it rather low down
on him " in not having him up on the plat
form, and consequently he had made up his
mind to be even with us and keep his
whereabouts a profound secret. At length
a more vigorous tug than usual broke the
rope, so that direct communications were
severed. Then the calf lowed a quiet,
derisive chuckle to himself, and laid down
to have forty winks. In desperation I
threw cartridges at him untU my ammuni
tion began to get low, but he refused to
acknowledge them, or in any other way
hold communication with us. By-and-by
the prahns descended again, and tied one
of his hind legs some way up the stake.
Even the awkwardness of this position did
not rouse his spirit. He was the meanest,
most idiotic animal I ever encountered.
Not a murmur in anger, sorrow, gratitude,
or affection could we extract from him.
Any other calf would have been proud
to receive hgtlf as much attention. This
brute evidently did not care for sport ;
VOL. II. c

18 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
as the Yankees say, he wasn't "on it."
Somehow or other, he got disgusted at the
start, and he kept disgusted right through.
I cannot imagine what the chUdren of Israel
could find to worship in a calf.
The moon, which had risen behind,
finished her course and set in front of us.
Night was wearing away, so I relinquished
the watch and obtained a good hour's sleep
before daylight. When the first faint streak
of dawn tinged the horizon, the prahns
awoke me, and I started for camp with a
guilty feeling that we had been playing the
fool all night. At any rate, I was careful
not to mention any of our expedients for
making the caH sing. Night watching, on
the whole, is slower work, if possible, than
punt fishing ; at least, such night watching
as that which confines you to a platform in
a tree. Newman, when I arrived, was on the
point of starting in the canoe on a little
reconnaissance up the river, from which he
returned with three jungle-cock and a
couple of peacocks. Shortly after he left.

EXPEDITION UP COUNTRY, 19
H  appeared, also empty handed; and at
length, the sun being high in the heavens.
Tip turned out, calm, fresh, and cheerful,
" WeU, how many tigers ? "
" No signs of one,"
" Ah ! then I suppose they didn't ' veal '
weU," Neither did we after that ; so we left him
in the midst of some base insinuation about
our "watching for tigers and praying they
wouldn't come," and rethed to the bamboo
house to sleep tUl breakfast. Tip has been
warned that if he unburdens his soul of any
more of these infamous puns, his bones
wiU be left to whiten on a 'foreign strand.
This is final, so I am expecting in a few
chapters to have to record his untimely
demise. It was aU very weU to chaff us, but were
I so minded I could tell a tale about a
certain Nimrod who, on a subsequent
occasion, spent the night as we had done.
In the midst of his vigil he saw a black cat
seated on the bait. Incontinently he fired.
The result was that we had some calf for

20

WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.

dinner next day. Cross-examination eUcited
the fact that the above sportsman took with
him a bottle of seductively mixed punch to
cheer the waiting hours. It was conjec
tured that this, in some manner, was con
nected with the "black cat" iUusion. Of
course, there may have been a black cat
there, but, as the punch-drinking sportsman
frankly acknowledged, " He is the only man
who has ever seen one m the Siamese
jungle." In the afternoon Tip and I went for a
long walk, part of which lay through a
beautiful park-Hke country, dotted with
clumps of timber and patches of bush.
These seem to be natm-al aviaries for the
parrot tribes. Tip shot what he caUed " a
Siamese albatross of the big parrot kind."
Our camp is pleasantly situated on a high
bank, at a point where, for a few hundred
yards or so, it is clear of jungle. Just
below us the broad shaUow river, sweeping
rapidly by, is joined by a lesser stream, and
then swerves suddenly to the left. A teak
forest Hues the bank on one side ; on the

EXPEDITION UP COUNTRY. 21
other there is a thick bamboo jungle, where
a colony of black monkeys are constantly
engaged in watching us through the delicate,
lace-Hke foHage. Scores of kingfishers ply
to and fro ; blue jays with gorgeous plumage,
hawks, and an occasional peacock cross and
recross the stream. Under a spreading tree,
on a tiny terrace, neatly swept and com
manding the best view of the river, is our
dining-table. And here, in the quiet of
evening, when the after-glow is fading out
of " dim skies ; " when the filmy curtains
of night droop over the landscape, and
drowsiness comes to weary nature as sleep
to a weary man ; when the far-away cry of
the peacock from up some distant reach,
and the good-night crow of the jungle fowl,
losing their harshness in flattering distance,
mingle not unmusically with the monotone
mutterings of wood-pigeons in the nearer
jungle, — we gather after the day's enjoy
ment, and dine in luxury. Here, when the
twUight hour has fled away, and a flood of
moonHght, streaming over the dark teak
tree-tops, aUghts with magic kiss upon

22 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
twinkling ripples of the waters, marking'
with evanescent tracery of silver their flow
ing darkness: when the soft night wind,
Hsping amidst leaves and reeds and spear
head grasses, wanders on and on, till at the
gates of heaven it sighs forth its gathered
tale of peace and is hushed itself in rest ; —
weU, here, even here, we sit through the
balmy hours, late into the night, "propose "
and " accept " and " mark the king," or
play " chatty rubbers," soothed by innu
merable bouries, cigars, and pipes. In truth,
more romantic surroundings could hardly
be conceived, and our camp on the Meklong
wiU always be a pleasant memory.

( 23 )

CHAPTEE II.
SIAM — Conclusion.
" The prahns are late, and the Governor has
prescribed a mild corrective aU round," said
Newman next morning, after we had been
waiting a short time the arrival of those
worthies, in order to start on a projected
"drive." The prahns were accordingly laid out,
faces downwards, in a row upon the ground,
and to each man was administered, with the
utmost gravity and impartiality, six stern
applications of the rattan. A short exhor
tation upon the moral beauty of punctuality
was next dehvered by the Governor, in the
course of which he took occasion to promise
them as much more rattan as they cared to

24 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
earn and to assure them that they would
mend- before that persuasive plant broke.
We then set out, and proceeding some
way up stream, landed in the jungle, where
the head prahn so stationed us that if any
one had fired, it must have been in the
direction of some one else. I fancy he was
stiU rather sore from the rattan.
S  's post was next to mine, I thought
it only right to prepare him for sudden
death; so I moved down the glade, and
broke it gently to him that he was just in
my Une of fire. He said it was aU right —
he could get under cover of a teak tree;
besides, he had a first-rate shot at Newman
and was bound to pot him.
"I was just wondering when you came,"
he said, " what Ward would charge to stuff
a vice-consul and set him up nicely in a
case, and whether I'd have Newman done
full length, or cut off at the waist."
H  was placed where he had a rather
difficult shot at me. Newman could not
have shot any one, except it were by chance
a prahn.

SIAM. 25
Having placed us thus, the natives went
off, and, as I imagine, sat down in the shade
somewhere to chew betel and chat. A long
time elapsed before we heard anything of
them, and when at length, with shouts and
yeUs, they did approach us, they drove
nothing before them. A drive was then
tried on the opposite side of the river, this
time with greater success ; for with a good
¦shot Newman dropped a fine kwang. Other
attempts proved unsuccessful. Newman's
kwang was the only beast we saw during the
day, or, indeed, throughout the whole trip.
The elephants had not arrived, and now the
rival governor, who had been requested to
supply them, sent to dechne doing so. An
expedition to the hills in quest of rhinoceri
and kyting * was therefore out of the ques
tion. To have ascended the river to the
•Cheijok FaUs, though an interesting trip, on
account of the grand scenery, hot springs,
and curious old ruins said to exist in their
neighbourhood, would, owing to the in
creasing force of the current above us, have
* Wild buffalo.

26 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
been a long and laborious task. Moreover,
there would have been great difficulty in
obtaining provisions for our crowd of boat
men. It was, therefore, decided to remain
a couple of days more in our present camp,
and explore the country thoroughly in
search of game. Dead buUocks had been
stationed in three separate spots in the
jungle ever since our arrival, but, though
examined every morning, none of them
showed signs of having been touched. I
am afraid the tigers in this neighbourhood
existed only in the Governor's imagination.
Undoubtedly there is sport, and, after duly
deducting from the tales I heard a fair
aUowance for exaggeration, I should say
grand sport, to be had in Siam. But to
obtain it a man must travel alone with his
servant and a minimum of baggage — Httle
more, in fact, than his blanket and ammuni
tion. Then, if time is no object to him,
and he starts weU recommended by the
Eegent or Kalahom, he wiU probably be
amply repaid for his toU. This we were
aware of before we started ; besides, we did

SIAM. 27
not proceed as far as the real game country,
and could not therefore expect sport.
Farther inland, elephants, rhinoceri, kyting,
kwang, tigers, leopards, and several kinds
of smaller game are to be met with in great
numbers. So, not without regret, one sunny
morning whilst we were breakfasting, the
boats were reladen and we turned back.
Om- boatmen were insufferably lazy. The
only thing which excited them to any effort
was a formula used by Lazarus the cook.
It was uttered in a quiet, encouraging man
ner, and sounded rather euphonious and
pretty, besides being very effective. By
Hstening attentively a few times I succeeded
in committing the words to memory, and
subsequently used them with the greatest
success. It occurred to me one day to
inquire their meaning. I was horrified to
discover that the language I had been using
was a masterpiece of the most fearful abuse
that even an Eastern language could pro
duce, and the Oriental strength and rich
ness in this particiUar is as brandy to water
compared with invective and vituperation in

28 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
the West, Had the female relatives of our
boatmen heard me thus encouraging their
sons and brethren, my scalp would hardly
have appeased their righteous indignation
and outraged reputations.
Lazarus is located just behind our Httle
deck-house, and with a smaU earthen
fireplace makes cafe noir for Tip and
myself all day long. Lovely scenery, lovely
weather, and nothing to do but to lie still
and enjoy both; add thereto coffee and
tobacco, and what can a man want more !
It seems as if it were a sort of boating trip
in Paradise ; already we may be said to be
graduating for the Nirwana of the Buddhists.
The bank scenes pass in panorama before
us : here a viUage fete or La Khon ; there a
temple, with yeUow-clothed talapoins loiter
ing round ; anon a funeral procession going
to burn the body of the dead. Tiring of
doing nothing, you drop quietly down under
the banks, and shoot jungle-fowl, or per
chance a peacock, and then again return to
your idleness or your book.
Thus drifting with the current, halting a

SIAM. 29
day here and a day there, we found our
selves at length again at Bangkok. Here
we remained a fortnight longer, whilst the
yacht was preparing for her battle with the
China seas. Time, however, did not pass
slowly, for a succession of dinners and
breakfasts, visits and visitors, together with
some good snipe shooting in the paddy-
fields near the town, kept the ball rolhng
untU our departure.
One of the most curious of Siamese insti
tutions is that of Second King. Few people
hold a more anomalous position in any
kingdom. It is one of those things that
"no feUow can understand," or, at any rate,
give a satisfactory explanation of. Like the
idioms of a language, long residence in the
country alone wiU enable strangers to
acquire some conception of this remarkable
personage's position. He is treated with
royal ceremony, and lives separately from
the King, in somewhat similar style, but on
a scale of less magnificence. His income is
derived from the State, and he is supposed to
have two thousand soldiery at his command.

30 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
Without duties to perform, place in govern
ment, recognized power, or definite status,
the Second King can only be accounted for
by supposing that the title has outlived the
objects or functions for which it was created.
His situation in Bangkok resembles that of
an exiled king in an ahen country. The
present Second King is uncle to the Fu'st
King, and is a man of good education and
talents. The Siamese have yet another King — a
mock King, elected for three days by the
people, during which time they keep hoH-
day, and the real King is supposed to remain
in his palace. The whole thing is a rural
fete, and is accompanied with superstitious
ceremonies to divine the future abundance
or scarcity of the harvest.
A strange habit of thinking aloud as they
walk along is indulged in by the natives.
Frequently in traversing the town with one
who understood the language, I was amused
with the translations of their mental notes
— such trivialities as, for instance, " Three
Enghshmen walking along, one in the

SIAM. 31
middle with a white coat on;" or the follow
ing remarks of an old lady, translated to me
on one occasion when I was returning from
snipe shooting in the paddy-fields, wet
through, as usual, up to the chest: "Ah!
fallen in the water ; wet through. Shocking !
What a terrible dog ! WiU he bite me ? No."
A wonderful variety in form and design
characterizes the coins of Siam. At one
time or another almost every known metal
appears to have been put in circulation,
and as if this diversity was insufficient,
coins have even been made of porcelain.
I was fortunate enough to see a large and
very interesting coUection in Bangkok,
the property of a German resident. Some
of the metal pieces were perforated with
elaborate designs. The porcelain coins
in many cases are simUarly ornamented,
and at the same time skilfully coloured.
A number of these latter were kindly pre
sented to me by Mr. Kophke, the Danish
Consul, an enthusiastic numismatist. The
old sUver and gold coinage is in the form
of balls. The ends of a short bar of silver

32 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.

or gold are compressed untU they meet;
the baU is then simply stamped and put
in circulation. Lately, owing to the facility
for imitation afforded by such rough work
manship, the Government has been induced
to call these coins in, and substitute for
them a coinage similar to that used in
Europe. Of the interior of Siam there is at present
but little known, and that little is of a
vague and unsatisfactory description. We
were told, I know not with what truth, that
in the direction we foUowed, no European,
with the exception of Captain HiU, E.E.,
had penetrated beyond Canburee. A rich
field is here awaiting the naturahst, ornitho-.
legist, and botanist ; in fact, scientific men
of every branch. The phUosopher who
would contemplate the decline of a nation,
and study the problems such a catastrophe
presents, could scarcely find a fitter subject
than Siam. There is work, too, for the
archaeologist ; for the glory of this people
is their past, and the grandeur of its
ruined monuments, existing still in various

SIAM. 33
parts of the country, proves that their
ancestors were men of other metal than
the effete slaves of to-day — men who trod
deeply into time, and whose footprints have
not yet been utterly erased, though their
character has vanished.
With reference to the ease with which
specimens may be obtained by the naturahst,
Mr. W  , an American gentleman and
former resident in Bangkok, told me an
amusing anecdote in San Francisco. A
barrel of alcohol was sent out by Professor
Agassiz to a friend of his, to be filled with
reptUes and returned. As this friend was
on the point, of leaving Bangkok, he begged
Mr. W  to attend to the matter.
When the alcohol arrived, therefore, he
told his servants to set some Httle boys
to work to catch snakes, lizards, toads — in
fact, any unclean things they could find —
bring them to the house, and drop them
into the alcohol. They were to receive a
smaU coin for each specimen. The news soon
spread, and in an hour or two the barrel
was fiUed. But all the Httle vagabonds in
VOL. II. D

34 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
the neighbourhood were aroused, and shoals
of Httle boys arrived every minute, each
bearing some hideous monster in a spHt
stick. Finding that they were no longer
needed, they simply dropped them in the
garden, so that in a very short time the
whole place was alive with reptUes. They
got into the house, upstairs, downstairs,
tmder the beds, chairs, mattings, and piUows,
and into every available chink and corner.
" I had to evacuate the place, and a troop
of little boys were engaged for weeks
afterwards catching them again," said
W  , " I couldn't move without scaring
up a snake or a Hzard. There were shmy
tracks all over the fioors. If I looked
up suddenly, there was a big toad gaping
at me in a corner, or a tokai scuttling
across the table. You bet the next man
that asks me to coUect reptUes for him
won't remain long in doubt. No, sir ! "
In the great flood of Chinese emigration
that has risen and overwhelmed them, the
Siamese are rapidly being extinguished.
Nearly the whole of the trade, as weU

SIAM. 35
as what may be called the agricultural
interest, is in the hands of their invaders.
They have overrun the country and are
absorbing the inhabitants. Chinese women
rarely quit their own country. The emi
grants therefore take unto themselves
Siamese wives, and as they are more
wealthy, and bear the reputation of being
better husbands than the native men, they
naturaUy obtain the pick of their women;
for money rules the matrimonial market
as much in Siam as elsewhere. As might
naturaUy be expected, the offspring of these
marriages are more influenced in character
by the stronger mind and intensely national
characteristics of the father, than by the
altogether weaker nature of the mother.
Here, then, is a feature unusual in Chinese
emigration. The Celestials are taking root
in the soil they have adopted, and to the
consequences nations they come in contact
with under such circumstances must inevi
tably risk by reason of their marveUous
frugality, industry, and perseverance, is in
this instance superadded the very grave

3B WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.

question of intermarriage. Not only are
they slowly starving the Siamese out of
their own country, but at the same time,
by maintaining a constant selection of
the best and healthiest of the indigenous
women, they arrest the increase of the
Siamese population, and divert the best
blood of the nation to augment their own
numbers and strengthen their own ties
and position. One can but gaze at the
vast wave of Chinese emigration that
with increasing volume rolls from her over-
populated homes, where "man is a weed"
— but a weed possessed of rare qualities —
and wonder what wiU be its results. When
and where wUl Muscovite and Mongol,
after silently digesting the lesser nations
of the earth, meet and measure their at
length fully developed strength? China
must awake from her torpor sooner or
later. Like a volcano that has slumbered
for ages, she is looked upon as harmless.
It is a work of time to set in motion
the machinery of so vast and inert a mass ;
but noting the numbers of her people

SIAM. 37
that now annually seek foreign shores,
it would seem that the lesser wheels
are beginning slowly to revolve. As a
people the Chinese may lack ambition; the
ideas that would render them dangerous
may not yet be developed; they may yet
be ignorant of their strength. A Httle
learning, though, and a few restless spirits
wUl suffice to impart the impetus they
require, and once the motive power is
gained, once roused, the rest foUows easily.
In China humanity has reached its most
economic stage. The greatest amount
of brain power, labour, industry, • and
perseverance — in short, the best human
machine is there produced and supported
at the least expense. These are important
considerations when they apply to over
two hundred and fifty miUions of people.
The Mongol wUl be among the problems
of the future.
Eetuming to our subject : meanwhile the
effete and worn-out Siamese of the upper
classes, as if to accelerate their disappear
ance, sink their individuahty in new

38 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
fashions and fresh customs, casting aside
without consideration the dress and ways
of their forefathers. In dress they have
effected a compromise, and stUl chng to
the parnung, although they wear European
hats, shirts, boots, etc., and no longer
partiaUy shave their heads so as to leave
the formerly orthodox tuft. The result
of this attempted assimUation is ludicrous
in the extreme. However, it may be
expected that in a short time the parnung
also will be discarded in favour of the in
elegant tight trousers of civUization. They
will adopt the whole costume —
"And live, with all their lordly speeches,
The slaves of buttons and tight breeches."
Like chUdren they crave for any novelty,
and being possessed of it, Hke chUdren,
cast it aside. Houses are buUt and allowed
to go to ruin ; steam launches are bought,
and in every creek they may be seen,
lying where they have lain since they were
"new," rusting and rotting for want of
care and use. Gunboats and public works
suffer the same fate. Siam is a land of

SIAM. 39
decay. The population (Siamese) is decreas
ing ; the government is rotten, the adminis
tration a recognized instrument of extortion.
They take no thought for the morrow ; to
procure sufficient for immediate necessities
is their sole object. Whence this is derived,
how, or at what expense to the people,
matters not. The present King has between
forty and fifty brothers ahve ; these princes,
together with a host of nobles, all live by
preying on the people. An illustration
of the state of the country may be gathered
from the official mode of describing the ap
pointment of a Governor. It is said that
he has been given such or such a town or
district to "eat." If the nation suffered
from temporary abuses and prostration, such
as at some future time might culminate in
civU disturbances and be shaken off by a
vigorous self-assertion of the lower classes,
the case would stUl be hopeful. But there
is no vitaUty or vigour left in the race.
The childish frivohty and narrow-minded
weaknesses of the upper classes are pnly
equaUed by the unconquerable indifference

40 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
and lethargic indolence of the lower orders.
The presence of the Chinese was -not
necessary to effect their dissolution.
Siam, in minerals, jewels, forests, and
agricultural lands, is enormously rich. Yet
amidst all these sources of wealth, for lack
of a little energy and industry, the native
population Hve from hand to mouth in
abject misery. The purest gold ore has
been found repeatedly here ; with grand
rivers traversing the whole country to the
sea, their magnificent forests of ship-building
timber are scarcely touched ; they might
grow rice for the world, to say nothing of
sugar, coffee, tobacco, and spices ; whUst
their mines of precious stones have long
been proverbial for their value and extent.
But the Siamese, at any rate, wUl never
develop the resources of their country.
Their tenancy as rulers may Hnger, but it
cannot last ; even now it is a shadow with
out substance, and they rule only on
sufferance.
" The spider has woven her web in the imperial towers ;
The owl hath sung her watch-song on the towers of
Afrasiab."

( 41 )

CHAPTEE IIL
CHENTABUN.
The yacht left Bangkok a few days before
we did, and lay outside the bar awaiting us.
We foUowed in the Chentabun steamer,
her captain being good enough to He to
whUst the boats fetched us off. As we
did not start until next day, three or four
acquaintances came down to see us off;
they slept on board, and returned to Bang
kok the foUowing morning by the post
boat. About mid-day the yacht got under way,
and steamed to the mouth of the Chenta
bun river, arriving there next morning.
Mr. Gould, of the Consulate, accompanied
ua, with the intention of spending Christmas
on board and remaining in Chentabun for

42 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
a fortnight after we left. The little bay
in which we anchored was remarkably
pretty. With its wooded bluffs and tiny
wooded island, it strongly resembled a
bit of Loch Lomond — an idea which was
fostered by the view of a grand hUl in
the background not unlike the great Ben
itself. After breakfast the steam launch
was lowered, and we went for a short cruise
up the river, taking the guns with us, in
case we should chance on a likely spot
for snipe. The mouth of the river is full
of fish traps, some of large dimensions, built
of bamboos on the same principle as duck
decoys. About three miles up stream we
fell in with the Chentabun steamer. She
had discharged cargo and passengers, and
had on board a herd of miners from the
lately discovered sapphire and ruby mines.
They gave a very miserable account of the
state of things there. Men, they said, were
dying like sheep of fever and dysentery.
They had no doctors or medicines. No
Europeans were there, and it would be
certain death for them to attempt to work

CHENTABUN. 43

there. We saw a few stones, but none of
value, as the miners aU had their packets
sealed up and stowed carefuUy away. They
were a wonderfully picturesque, cut-throat
looking lot of ruffians, far too suspicious of
one another to bring out and exhibit what
they reaUy possessed.
The foUowing morning we started on
a foraging expedition to Chentabun, which
Hes about fifteen mUes up stream. On
the whole, the scenery was uninteresting
and disappointing. We were accompanied
by the old Governor of Paknam, a viUage
at the mouth of the river. Our first care
was to dehver our letters from the Foreign
Minister to the Governor. These insured
us a civU reception. He expressed great
curiosity with regard to the yacht, par
ticularly when he of Paknam told his
superior "it was a vessel that did not
trade, and inside it was Hke a beautiful
house." "It does not trade!" he exclaimed in
wonder. " Then her captain must be very
rich. Has he many wives on board ? "

44 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
" None at aU."
"What, no wives? Not one? " and the
Governor's eyes threatened to join as they
expanded. " Why does he not carry
them with him? "
We explained that he had none. But
a " captain " who was so rich that he did
not want to trade, and yet had no wives,
was a creature beyond his comprehension.
At last he found a solution for the problem.
"I have heard that in your country girls
choose their own husbands and marry
whom they please. Is it not so ? "
We assented.
" Perhaps, then, your captain " (H 
was not with us) "is so Httle handsome
that no girl would choose. But he can
buy a wife here for a hundred tickals, and
he can choose for himself."
What struck the Governor most in
Paknam's account of the yacht was an
aUusion to a coco de mer he had seen
on board. He of Paknam was bidden to
describe it, and this he very delicately
did by saying that it was " a thing you

CHENTABUN. 45

could not show to a chUd," His descrip
tion of the hippopotami skuUs completed
the charm, and the Governor begged to
be aUowed to visit the yacht and see
her eccentric owner and the wonderful
things he possessed. We then returned
to the launch and passed up the river to
the town.
There are no absolutely floating houses
here, but the banks are lined with
huts built on pUes. The inhabitants are
almost entirely Cochin Chinese, and differ
considerably in cast of countenance from
the Siamese, their features exhibiting a
more decidedly Mongolian character. Many
of the girls, though not absolutely pretty,
might, if beauty were measured by " carats "
— as, according to Marco Polo, it was in
choosing the " Great Khan's " wives —
perhaps be styled ten-carat beauties, twenty-
two carats being accepted as the maximum.
Their time is chiefly employed in the manu
facture of matting, in which art they par
ticularly excel.
WhUst we lunched, our feUows went off.

46 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
with Gould's native servants, to hunt up
ducks, fowls, and beef. In this they
signaUy faUed; there was HteraUy nothing
to be had, so we were forced to leave
the matter in the hands of the Governor,
and trust to him to send us down
provisions. Owing to the proximity of
the mines, the scarcity and price of wives
has become almost as alarming as that
of food. With the proverbial recklessness
of miners, the lucky Tongzus and Burmese
have rushed eagerly into matrimony, and
have paid what are accounted alarming
sums, in this country, for their accompHces
in the terrible act. A respectable young
man of moderate means, who was formerly
a "catch" in the matrimonial market, is
now obliged to pine in smgle blessedness.
The French Jesuits have long had a
missionary station estabhshed here. After
lunch we visited and had a chat with the
fathers. They informed us, with some exul
tation, that nearly half the population were
Christians. If, as they appeared to think,
their souls were purified, their bodies oer-

CHENTABUN. 47

tainly were not. Christian and Buddhist
were equally dirty, and a Httle more baptism
would have done neither of them any harm.
One of the fathers, a fine picture of the
old viUage shepherd, had resided in Chenta
bun for more than forty years, and intended
to end his days there.
" Oui, monsieur," he said ; " la ou j'ai tra-
vaUlai je mourrerai ; ma seule esperance, et
ce que je prie du bon Dieu tous les jours,
c'es d'etre permi, quand je quitte Chentabun,
de passer pas voie de ciel."
On the return journey I shot a curlew
and a couple of kingfishers. Early next
morning — we caUed it by courtesy " at
stmrise " — Gould and I went ashore for a
tramp with the guns. At Paknam we
enUsted a few followers for retrievers, and
walked for three or four miles in and
about a swamp near the coast, where we
bagged a few odd snipe and plover. We
then turned our steps towards the beach.
The tide was out, and sea-birds were flock
ing in thousands on the mud flats. Station
ing ourselves under cover of a mangrove

48 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
swamp, in less than three quarters of an
hour we kUled twenty-two brace of birds
by simply waiting for them as they swooped
up and down past us. Our foUowers were
then sent to gather up the slain, and as
breakfast-time was looming in the distance
and the heat had become very oppressive,
we started to walk back to the landing-
place. Eeturning to the yacht, we stopped
at the tiny picture-hke island in the bay,
for a plunge off the rocks into the crystal-
clear waters below them — a luxury we paid
for dearly with bUstered backs ahd shoulders,
although neither of us remained more than
a few minutes in the water. So much for
Christmas Eve. When the bag was laid out
on deck, twenty-five and a half brace of all
sorts were counted.
Christmas Day —
" Poor men, when Yule is cold,
Must be content to sit by little fires."
That would they easUy, and the smaUer the
better, if their Yule-tide were spent in
these chmes. To-day is one of the hottest

CHENTABUN. 49

days I ever experienced. In the lightest of
Hght clothes, and as few of them as possible,
we have found the heat almost insupport
able, lounging the time away under the
deck awnings. By a curious coincidence,
this is the second Christmas Day H 
has spent in this out-of-the-way corner
of the world.
On turning out this morning, we found
the yacht gaUy dressed with bunches of
green stuff, and the saloon decorated in
true Christmas style, lacking, however,
the famihar berries and mistletoe. A
Christmas card, with its usual kindly greet
ing, faced each of us on the breakfast plates.
They were the productions of Paul, the
fo'k'sle genius, wit, bandmaster, artist,
" great comique," and officers' steward.
Each had for its subject some humorously
treated incident of the voyage. Joe's
stump tail was tied up of blue ribbons,
and a coUar of leaves graced his short
neck. He wore both under protest, as
he was too languid and lackadaisical, owing
to the heat, to attempt to remove them.
VOL. II. E

50 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
The fo'k'sle band not having been heard
lately, I asked Paul yesterday what had
befaUen it.
" Well, sir," he said, " the fact is the
cockroaches are too fond of music. One
big chap has gone and died of joy by
himself inside the cornet-a-piston. We've
been trying to get him out and have a
funeral, but he's opposed to the ceremony.
Then there's a regular nation of 'em got
into the concertina. They're Hving on the
leather inside, waiting for me to play to
'em. I did the other day, and you could
hear 'em go scrunch, scrunch every note.
As to the big drum, they've eaten a hole
in it you could put your head in. It was
proposed to blast that chap out of the
comet-a-piston with a Httle gunpowder.
You see, it's Christmas Day to-morrow, sh,
and we must have the instruments ready."
I suppose these difficulties were eventuaUy
overcome, for music and singing com
menced at an early hour this morning,
and continued, with but slight inter
mission, throughout the day. To do the

CHENTABUN. 51

men justice, I may say that not the
shghtest advantage was taken of the liquor
and licence aUowed them. They behaved
remarkably weU, striking that happy
medium of a saUor's enjoyment to which
we may apply Denham's lines on the
Thames, " Strong without rage, without
overflowing fuU."
Most of the men spoke Gaehc, and often
sang their national songs, Gould was
curious to hear one, so after dinner H 
sent up to teU the men who were singing
on deck to favour us with a Gaelic song.
After a good deal of preliminary coughing,
a dismal droning repetition of what sounded
like "0 mi nincum barney" was heard
outside the skyUght. Suddenly the bashful
songster stopped, and Paul was heard
exhorting him in an undertone to " steam
ahead and give us the funny part over
again," However, they could get no
more out of him; so Paul himself caught
up the tune with his concertina, and,
inventing his own words or gibberish, gave
a capital imitation of the song. The solemn

52 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
Scot Hstened attentively to the end, then
we heard him seriously object, " That's no
Gaehc, I'U swear."
We parted reluctantly with Gould next
morning. Sternly pleading the caUs of
that insatiable monster " duty," he refused
to continue the passage with us to Hong
Kong. It T^as a moot point whether or
no we should kidnap him, but being
unacquainted with the exact nature of the
penalties that would attend the forcible
abduction of one of Her Britannic Majesty's
consular officers, the idea was abandoned,
and he was aUowed to depart for Chentabun
in a boat sent by the Governor.
Soon after mid-day the yacht weighed
anchor, and headed for the PaHwan Passage.
The weather now clouded over. We had
November skies (d V Anglais), accompanied
by rain and squaUs, the latter frequently
heavy. Now and then a fine day occurred,
the sun showed out, and again we cotUd Hve
in comfort upon deck. But the fine days
seemed only hke fareweU messages from
the summer cHmates we were leaving, and.

CHENTABUN. 53

every day sunny hours grew rarer, and
the weather colder and more dismal.
For three days, it was on one occasion
impossible to take observations, and this
in a passage that abounded with reefs.
Fortunately on the fourth day the sun
broke, and the SwaUow Eeef was discovered
haK a mile off on our port bow.
Soon after this H  rehnquished his
intention of visiting Hong Kong, and
determined to make directly for Nagasaki.
The yacht's course was therefore altered,
and she steamed through the San Bernadino
Channel. Here we had smooth seas and
a couple of fine days. The scenery
amongst the Luzons was very charming,
and the evenings were particularly delight
ful, Dehcately clouded skies of pearly
grey were above us, tinged faintly with
the roseate flush of setting sun. The seas
were grey, too, and peacefully calm, whUst
here and there on the rippled lines, as
they rose an,d feU, a fleeting reflection of
the rosy sunlight might be caught. All
around the wooded islands, dark and

54 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.

shadowy, enclosed us as in a vast lake.
It was summer come again. The densely
wooded mountains and rocky bluff's of
Eomblon were very fine, A large vUlage
with a missionary church on the coast
almost induced us to lie to and land,
but in the long line of white breakers
that extended across the mouth of the
bay no entry could be discerned, and so,
as time was precious, owing to the fact
that in provisioning the yacht before
leaving Bangkok only the shorter voyage
to Hong Kong had been contemplated,
we held on our way, and in a short time
felt the broad swell of the Pacific again.
Swiftly the islands receded on our quarter.
The white water-line vanished. The
mountains waxed purple and hazy, growing
gradually fainter in colour, till their dim
peaks only were visible. At length they
also became lost to view, and we were
left fairly alone to battle with the north
west monsoon on our way to Japan. From
this point until our arrival in Nagasaki
it was one endless thump, thump, thump.

CHENTABUN.

as the vessel pitched in the heavy head
seas she encountered. It was a severe
trial for any yacht, but the Witch is a
grand sea-boat, and she behaved admu'ably.
Numerous squaUs varied the monotony
of the voyage. OccasionaUy they were
very heavy. There is something strangely
fascinating in watching the gathering of
a squall at sea. On the horizon the small
dark cloud at first is hardly noticeable.
Eapidly, but imperceptibly, it gains in dark
ness and volume. For a little space,
although advancing, the lowering mass
appears to remain stationary. Then
through the rigging breaks the rush of
wind with a low roaring sound, increasing
steadUy in power, and in a second, preceded
by drifting clouds of rain, the squaU is upon
you. Suddenly the atmosphere is darkened.
In the blinding rain the eye cannot pene
trate beyond a few yards from the ship's
side. Above the whirl of wind and the
fierce-seething hiss of waters, the shouted
orders — though he who gives them be
standing next to you — can scarcely be dis-

56 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
tinguished. The heavy swell of waves that,
but a few moments past, rose higher than
the bulwarks, is beaten down by sheer force
into rugged troughs, and the ocean as
it were, lashed and shrinking, cowers be
neath the irresistible majesty of the squaU,
Caught from the boiling whiteness aU
around, the salt sea-spray is dashed with
stinging fury over everything. Momenta
rily you are forced to turn away from it.
No longer does the vessel toss and bound
freely over broad rolhng biUows, With
unnatural lack of motion, she labours and
groans as if struggling in agony against
some mighty power. The squall has come
up on her starboard bow, and she seems
hardly to move through the water. Down
the lee scuppers the rain rushes in torrents ;
the decks are a sheet of water. Another
burst, stronger than all it seems, and
then the squall slowly declines, or rather
passes us in its march over the ocean.
The air clears, a reef or two is shaken
out of the sail, and the yacht continues
her course.

( 57 )

CHAPTEE IV.
NAGASAKI (japan).
Fifteen hours' steaming concluded the pas
sage to Nagasaki, The entrance to the
harbour bears a strong resemblance to Dart
mouth, and is strikingly pretty. As usual,
the moment anchor was dropped we were
boarded by a crowd of touts, tradesmen,
and such-like Hcensed pirates. Turn where
you would, a snub-nosed, high-cheek-boned,
Europeanized loafer, Hke a Scotch fishwife
in breeches, was on the point of thrusting
upon you a packet of dirty certificates.
Useless to say you did not wash, you never
employed a tailor, you made your own
boots, or mUdly to hint that you had already
concluded arrangements for a complete

58 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.

outfit from Nagasaki. They wanted to
know who had the order.
' ' Who you go ? Chi yaki ? Ah, him bad
man — ^rob: Oh, very bad. I give you ting
more half cheap."
Nothing availed short of exclaiming in
the strain of the phUanthropist, "I give
thee orders? 1 would see thee d  d
first." But even touts tire in course of
time, and by breakfast all had vanished,
with the exception of one melancholy indi
vidual, who, leaning his head pensively on
the tips of his fingers, paced the deck
silently and alone for some hours.
Were Nagasaki in the Mediterranean it
would be raved about. We should be re
commended to " see Nagasaki and die," or
follow some equaUy sensible course. But
it is in Japan, not in Italy, and in scenery,
as in pictures, names are of more account
than merit. One of the few independent
men in this respect that I have ever met
was an old Scotchman. We were entering
the bay of Naples on a Messageries boat,
and some ladies, with the assistance of a

NAGASAKI 59

guide-book, were explaining to him its
beauty, " Humph ! " said the old gentleman, who
evidently had to undergo a yearly trip of
this kind. "It's varra foine. Have we
seen this befoore ? "
" Oh no. The last time," etc., etc.
"Ah, it's varra foine. It's Hke Brodick
Bay in Arran."
A chorus of horror from the ladies at this
rank heresy, and quotations from the guide
book to prove that Naples was immeasurably
finer than anything else in the world, did
not in the shghtest degree alter his opinion.
" Sae it may be," said he—" sae it may
be, but Brodick Bay is varra foine too."
Nagasaki in summer must be delightful.
Even now, when ascetic winter has stripped
the country of aU its gayer colours, when
hills are bleak and trees for the most part
shiver with naked branches in the cutting
wind, the land-locked harbour is still won
derfully pretty. AU, or nearly aU, round
the water's edge are houses. The main
town Hes on the north-east shore of the bay.

60 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.

Above, the steep hiUs are covered, like chess
boards, with patches and tiny terraces cut
in the sides for cultivation. In many places
these climb to the very summits, and I am
told that they raise two crops a year on
them. At present they are mostly bare,
but here and there a bright square of spring
green relieves the winter tones and stands
out like Hght in darkness.
Her Majesty's ships Charybdis and Pe
gasus were lying in harbour when we
arrived. A boat from the former soon
boarded the yacht. Later on, her com
mander. Captain Hotham, paid us a visit.
He was just completing his third year on
the station, so he was in a position to give
us much information and several valuable
hints with regard to curio hunting.
The morning had been miserable, sleet,
snow, and heavy mists alternating, but in
the afternoon it cleared, and we went for
a run ashore. H  cHmbed the hiU
to the temple of the Bronze Horse with
Captain Hotham and Commander the Hon.
H. W. Hood, of the Pegasus. S  and

NAGASAKI 01

I made a general reconnaissance of the
town. The moment we landed we were
surrounded by a crowd of jinriksha men,
in the shafts of their Hght bath chairs.
S  "vetted them over," as he termed
it, felt one man's legs, which amused the
rest intensely, and finally chose a fellow
with very big calves. My man, though
smaUer, showed more class. Off they went
at a rapid trot, which was not decreased in
pace by Joe making playful feints at their
ankles and barking gleefuUy around.
We soon found the house of Narabash,
the interpreter recommended to us. He
himself happened at the time to be out, but
his wife received us, and in a few words of
broken Enghsh informed us that her hus
band would speedUy return. In the mean
whUe she conducted us into a beautifully
neat Httle Japanese room. Cushions were
spread for us near the hibatchi. Presently
two girls entered and began to make us tea
over its charcoal embers.
"Faith," said Tip, "they're mighty
poHte in this country with thefr afternoon
tea ! "

62 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
Occasionally they stole shy glances at the
strangers. Narabash's daughters, we men-
taUy concluded. However, subsequently
we found that we were mistaken. The tea
made, they offered it, stUl shyly, but
with charming grace, and — remained. One,
seated by the hibatchi, played idly with its
chopstick fire-frons ; the other, standing
near her, occupied her pretty fingers with
a fan. She was very attractive, this girl.
Taller than the average of Japanese
maidens, and slim, with, as far as her
coquettish Httle costume would aUow one
to judge, a figure lithe and straight as a
reed. Pretty hands — too, she had — plump
little childHke hands — and a chUd's round
neck, marked with Venus's necklace ; cheeks
soft and creamy as a tea-rose, tinged with
the faintest soupcon of rose colour; a
rounded chin with dimpled front ; a dainty
little mouth that, opened half in wonder
as she gazed at us, revealed the whitest
teeth; and eyes— oh ! the long Eastern
eyes, dark and fathomless, " deep as deep
flowers and dreamy Hke dim skies." There

NAGASAKI

was such an afr of shyness and innate
modesty about this blooming Hebe, that
to have imputed an impure thought to her
would have seemed almost sacrilege. She
was young, too — sixteen, at the most, her age
— and yet, alas ! aU delicacy was superfluous.
Our neat-handed Philhs and her scarcely
less beautiful companion were, as Mrs.
Grundy would say, " no better than they
ought to be."
In due course the dragoman arrived.
He was a fafr type of his kind, useful,
active, and unscrupulous.
I know some lacquer fair to see.
****** Beware, beware !
Trust him not.
He is fooling thee.
StUl he was intelHgent and less difficult
to deal with than the majority of his class,
and when detected in the " lie with a
cfrcumstance," he acknowledged his error
with the utmost suavity and grace. Au
reste, his finished roguery was amusing
to witness. Try him if ever you go to

64 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
Nagasaki. It is impossible, in a. short visit
there, to buy good curios without a guide,
as all those of any value are scattered
about in private houses or pawnshops.
Narabash wUl produce or take you to see
any number of them. For aught I know
to the contrary, he may, in the first instance,
have planted them out himself, in order to
inspire confidence in their value and
authenticity. But that matters not. Offer
your own price, at most a thfrd of his;
at same time make up your mind that
somehow or other you are stiU sure to
be imposed upon ; in buying curios in
Japan you wUl then be seldom disappointed.
Under the guidance of Narabash we
perambulated the town, returning after
wards to his own place to see a few things
he had hurriedly sent for. For a town
of its class — that is, of wooden houses, with
a more or less primitive system of drainage —
Nagasaki is a marvel of cleanliness and
neatness. There is a certain quaint, old-
fashioned simphcity about the place and
people that is dehghtful. The open.

NAGASAKI 65

windowless shops, with diversified stock
tastefuUy arranged on low platforms and
surrounding shelves'; the respectably clothed
shopkeepers, seated working, account-mak
ing, smoking, or quietly chatting whUst
they gather closely round the hibatchis
to warm their hands ; the coloured paper-
hangings, white-paper partitions, and win
dows on neat sHding frameworks ; the
clean matting and general air of prosperity
and comfort, form altogether a pleasing
picture. At night the scene is gaily
iUuminated, for the shops remain open untU
late, and their lighted lanterns, together
with those of the jinriksha men flying
swiftly to and fro, and of the foot passengers
shuffiing along on clogs, create quite a
picturesque effect.
The morning succeeding our arrival we
were shown over the Charybdis by Captain
Hotham. In the navy no less than in the
army, do they complain of the youthfulness
of the men. On Her Majesty's ships Cha
rybdis and Pegasus the faUing was even more
marked than common, because lying near
VOL. II. F

66 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
them were both Eussian and German men-of-
war. Side by side with those burly and level
crews of men, the English boys could not
but show to disadvantage. Captain Hotham
told me that a short time before, he had
calculated the average age of the men on
board his ship, and had found it to be a
few weeks over nineteen. This sounds ab
surd. Unfortunately, it is too true ; nor is
it by any means a peculiar case. No doubt,
in the Mediterranean fleet we have finer
crews, but they are picked men, and even
there we look in vain for the old sea
dogs who created and sustained the reputa
tion of the British navy. Her Majesty's
ships are so many schools of disciphne,
through which if any man can pass with
anything Hke a character, he is eagerly
sought after for civU posts and employments.
And such is the system adopted that he
receives no inducement to continue in the
navy when the time of service expires;
in fact, by doing so he risks the pension
he afready has acquired. Moreover, the
manner in which the recruiting is carried

NAGASAKI 67

out is much complained of. In order to
economize, recruiting for the navy is
performed by the marines. They recruit
almost exclusively in the large towns.
The class of boy thus obtained is vastly
inferior to the fine sturdy youngster of the
country, free from hereditary disease, and
free also from that invincible predUection
for lying and thieving which is rooted in
the character of the street Arab.
When we returned to the yacht we found
that Narabash had arrived with a boat
load of misceUaneous curiosities. They
were arranged on every available spot in
the saloon, the boxes that had contained
them covering the floor. Kagga tea services,
Imari bowls and dishes. Cloisonne vases
and plates, Satsuma jugs and figures ; gold
lacquer, black lacquer, and green lacquer
from the north, in the shape of cabinets
and medicine chests ; long, square, deep,
shaUow, oblong, oval, round, fan-shaped,
scoUoped boxes, and boxes of every kind ;
trays and chow-chow boxes, swords and
silk paintings, screens, picture books and

68 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
picture scroUs (some of which, caUed " fun
books," wotUd have shocked even HolyweU
Street), steel mirrors and ivory carvings,
suits of armour and bronzes, knives and
tortoisesheU ornaments, carved bamboo to
bacco pots and vases, silk handkerchiefs
and dresses, etc. ; in fact, a coUection as
misceUaneous as it was interesting. We
examined and studied and bargained and
bought for hours. Narabash was in great
feather. He snickered and chattered, and
swindled and perjured himself to a sur
prising extent. Everything he had to
dispose of was of the most ancient and valu
able description. As he would say when he
produced something, "Ver old, oh, ver
old indeet. I gif you guarantee. Suppose
you go Yokohama — you ask — make 'quiry,
AU person know me," Probably they had
some cause to,
" And how much is this, Narabash ? " one
of us would ask, taking up a china pot
or piece of lacquer.
Narabash would hazard a comprehensive
side-glance at his audience, in order to

NAQASAKL 69
judge how strong a dose he might venture
to prescribe. If we looked incredulous and
indifferent, he generaUy looked doubtful
and indifferent himself, and, turning the
object carelessly over in his fingers, would
say, " Dat ? Oh, I tink not so old dat.
Old, but not so old. P'r'aps feefty year.
Can't say quite, p'r'aps more," If, on
the other hand, he detected any signs of
admiration or covetousness, he launched
out boldly into the dim mist of past ages,
" Oh, dat ver old, I tink not often get so
old dat, Dat four — no, five hundred year ;"
and he glibly added another hundred years
to the age, and five doUars more to the
price, because we looked feasible. Once he
ventured as far as a thousand years, but he
had the grace to acknowledge that although
the article in question (a lacquer box) was
probably much older even, it might possibly
be a few years younger.
Imari ware had much to answer for. Any
old bit of chipped and disfigured rubbish
that he could find no other name for was
"old Imari," or "kind old Imari — Imari

70 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
sort not quite — but ver old," He described
most of the lacquer he showed us as having
" belong Tycoon, Tycoon make present
my father. My father doctor;" or else
" Tycoon make present Japan gentleman.
Gentleman he come poor; he put cabinet
pawn man ; pawn man ask me, can seU ? I
not common curio man; I — ^I " (here he
refers to the dictionary, for the foUowing
word always puzzled him, although used
frequently) — " I — I con-conni-connisseur.
Japan gentleman ask me seU — see ? "
Needless to say, we did see.
To one entirely new to it, the incessant
bargaining is disgusting and intolerably
wearisome. Unfortunately, the only alter
native is to pay three or four times as
much for everything as you would other
wise require to. It is remarkable, when
this is reahzed, how rapidly even the most
indifferent become ahve to the advantages
of a little chaffering. Soon what was
formerly an annoyance becomes an amuse
ment, the amusement grows into a habit,
and before long, not unfrequently, you

NAGASAKI 71

surprise yourseH discussing seriously a
difference in price which a short time
previously you would have regarded as un
worthy of notice. It carries one back to
the bazaars in the East, and brings up a
crowd of pleasant recoUections.
Whilst at Nagasaki we visited, under
Narabash's guidance, the houses of several
of his Japan gentlemen who had curios
to dispose of. Whether they combined
pawnbroking with their other business, I
am unable to say. Appearances, however,
were certainly in favour of the supposition.
We were usuaUy shown through the shop,
or office on the ground floor, and conducted
upstairs, where mats or cushions were
spread for us near the hibatchis. The
master or mistress (sometimes the latter
was charmingly pretty) of the house then
proceeded to make tea, over the small
heap of lighted charcoal, in the toy utensUs
they use for this purpose. Narabash
always swore that the tea cost fr'om eight
to twelve doUars a pound, but he was
such a finished Har that I hardly Hke to

72 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
quote him as an authority. Cakes were
handed round, and finally the curios were
produced, one by one, from their many
coverings of wool, cloths, paper, and boxes.
At one place we saw a remarkably hand
some pair of swords, formerly the property
of the Tycoon, and marked with his crest —
three golden heart-shaped leaves in a cfrclet.
For these they asked fifteen hundred doUars,
which, even taking into consideration the
heavy gold decoration expended upon them,
seemed a long price. Elsewhere we saw
a fine coUection of old gold Japanese coins.
These were chiefly remarkable for their
enormous size ; indeed, some of the larger
gold itcheboos, with thefr edges sHghtly
turned up, would make pretty Httle card
dishes. It would be impossible, even
were it not wearisome to the reader, to
describe a tithe of the many handsome
things these visits afforded us an oppor
tunity of seeing. The exquisite fineness
and dehcacy of work, the perfect finish,
the artistic talent so lavishly displayed
in aU that is reaUy old and good in

NAGASAKI 73

Japanese art, commands the most genuine
admfration, and one lingers over these frail
lacquer boxes with surpassingly beautiful
designs, and richly coloured, daintily worked,
and not less beautifuUy designed old china,
no longer wondering that the former are
worth more than their weight in gold,
the latter more than they could contain
of silver.
The interiors of Japanese houses are
wonderfuUy cleanly. Before quitting the
Httle paved entrance, we were invariably
requested to remove our boots. Fortunately
the inmates were always wilhng to com
promise matters by allowing us to pass,
after they had been polished with cloths ;
for, as we made our excursions in jinrikshas,
they were never dirty, and to have buttoned
and unbuttoned boots a dozen or more
times in the course of the day would
have damped our curiosity considerably.
The fittings and narrow ladder-like stair
case are of dark . poHshed wood ; the
rafters are generally of split bamboo. With
the exception of the mats, everything is

74 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.

paper — paper waUs, paper doors, paper
windows. As the walls are on the principle
of sHding doors, it is possihle to convert
two or three rooms into one, or even in
a few moments to throw open the whole
of one flat or story, whilst a window or
door can be opened promiscuously in almost
any part of the room. To live in houses
like these, where the Hghtest whisper can
be heard from end to end, and neighbours
can know and hear almost every occur
rence that is talked of, must place a bene
ficent check upon the unruly member.
Perhaps not a httle of the gentleness and
perfect manners of the Japanese might
be traced to the fact of thus perpetuaUy
dwelling within the public earshot. The
matting which, with but shght variation
in quality, is found in every house fr-om.
the lowest to the highest, is manufactured
of rice straw, loose layers of straw being
placed beneath it. It looks the picture of
simplicity and cleanliness ; nevertheless, I
am told that European traveUers up country
find it advisable, as they have to sleep on

NAGASAKI 75
it, to carry with them a bottle of Keating' s
insect powder. Cold and cheerless though
they may be in winter, in summer these
houses, with their verandahs and Httle
grotto-hke gardens, must be charming.
Indeed, Japan appears to me altogether a
summer country, and were I again to visit
it, summer would be the season I should
choose to spend there.
Nagasaki, as yet, owes its importance
chiefly to the coal mines in its vicinity.
Under French engineers the Japanese
have lately built a fine dock here. Captain
Hotham kindly volunteered to call for us
one morning and take us to see it. " Boat
from the Charybdis coming alongside, sir;"
and going on deck we see the measured
oars of the white man-o'-war's boat, gliding
swiftly over the rippling bay. Ten minutes'
row brought us to the dock. In it there
was a Eussian corvette being stripped of
its zinc sheathing, which had rusted away
to the thinness of paper. She was a fine-
looking craft, and is said both to steam
and saU weU, a combination only too rare

76 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
in our own navy. Her crew of fine, brawny,
fuU-grown men gave rise to such com
parisons as I have before alluded to —
comparisons exceedingly unpleasant to one's
national pride. Docks, I confess, do not
greatly interest me ; this, however, is sup
posed to be unusuaUy handsome and weU
finished. In the course of the day we went for our
usual round with Narabash, and visited,
amongst other places, the estabhshment
of the principal tortoisesheU worker in
Japan. His work was by far the hand
somest of the kind any of us had seen.
A box he had in the shape of a large fish
was a perfect work of art, and, apart from
the beauty of the shell, was admirable in
modeUing, and in the accuracy of every
detail, even to the adjustment of light and
dark shell in order to imitate shading.
Bird-cages, trays, boxes, vases, and a host
of minor objects fiUed the show-room.
Amongst other things, we ordered sets of
brush backs, etc., to furnish dressing-bags
with, which lyaki made from patterns very
qiuckly and weU.

NAGASAKI 77

We had arranged this afternoon to
experiment on a Japanese dinner. To
complete the entertainment, musicians and
dancing gfr-ls were to be in attendance.
On quitting lyaki's we accordingly made
our way to the eating house, and were
introduced into a large bare upper chamber.
The windows were opened to admit more
Hght, admitting at the same time a cutting
wind from the bay. Eugs for us to sit upon,
and hibatchis, were brought. The dinner
speedUy followed, borne in innumerable
Httle bowls by an almost equal number
of servants, who not only brought it for us,
but were good enough also to eat it. As
far as I was able to discover, the courses
consisted almost entfrely of various kinds
of fish — one dish of half-dried raw fish,
served with a hot condiment of some sort,
was exceUent. For the sake of gourmSts,
I shall always regret not having procured
the recipe. Sweets, dried and preserved
fruits, and cakes were handed about indis
criminately throughout the repast. The
drinks were the bitter straw-coloured Japa-

78 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
nese tea, and saki^ — the national intoxicator,
a beverage somewhat resembling dry sherry
in taste. Had the dinner taken place at
an eating hour we might have done greater
execution; as it was, we did httle more than
cautiously taste.
The dancing was a failure. It was
of a style that would have admitted the
exhibition of much quiet elegance and
grace in gesture and movement. Unfortu
nately there was no poetry of motion, no
swimming ease, no Hghtness displayed in
the evolutions of our danseuses. " Muse
of the many twinkhng feet ! " what
manner of damsels were these ? They were
heavy and awkward in every action. When
they did move, it was upon their heels, and
their antics and gamboUings were such as
would not have been remarkable for their
playfulness even in a young calf. As for
thefr management of the fan (which in the
hands of an artiste would have lent consider
ably to the charm of such slow dancing), no
ordinary Enghsh gfrl could have wielded it
to less advantage, and an EngUsh girl with

NAGASAKI 79
a fan is generaUy as unhappy as an Enghsh
boy with an eye-glass. Nor were we
more fortunate in our music. The dancing
was accompanied by girls who sang and
strummed on a kind of banjo, the strings
of which they struck, not with the fingers,
but with a chisel-shaped ivory instrument.
Thefr voices were the shrUlest I ever heard.
Possibly they possessed charms to soothe
the Japanese breast, but if such were the
case, its normal condition must be a most
fearful state of unrest. We took the oppor
tunity, when they paused for a httle
applause, to beg them to join in the more
peaceful occupation of eating. This they
were obhging enough to do, and the rest
of the music was deferred by mutual agree
ment until we should visit Japan again.
AU the girls were pretty. Were it not that
they had disfigured themselves with sundry
coatings of paint and powder, that formed
a superficial mask the extent of which
was clearly visible, they would have been
more attractive stUl. Powdering and
painting are extensively practised by Japa-

80 WAR, WAYES, AND WANDERINGS.
nese damsels. This rehc of barbarism is
not by any means confined to Western
beauties, but is a custom that, with wonder
ful vitahty, seems to Hnger amongst the
female sex from one end of the world to
the other.
It had been decided to start on the
following day; the yacht, however, was
not quite ready for sea, so our departure
was postponed until the succeeding morning.
Sleet and snow ushered in the coldest day
that had been experienced here during the
year. Towards afternoon it cleared up, and
I went to visit the temple of the Bronze
Horse, Like most Shintoo temples, it is
situated on a wooded hUl, The approach
to it is terminated by about two hundred
steps, arched over at intervals by tauri.
Passfrig through the courtyard, tenanted
by the Bronze Horse, there is a short
ascent of steps leading to the shrine, I
was not aUowed to enter, or I should have
been glad to examine more nearly two large
and apparently elaborate Japanese pictures
hanging in the chancel. Beyond them

NAGASAKI 81

lay a dim aisle, and in gloomy indistinct
ness, broken by the faint glint of gilt and
lacquer, was the sombre shadow-haunted
shrine of the Japanese god, I sat down
on the steps, to rest for a moment. Below
me lay the busy town with its teeming
population — a wUderness of roofs. Over
the bay a steamer ploughed her way
swiftly, black smoke pouring in dense
volumes from her funnels ; boats pHed to
and fro, jinrikshas traversed the causeway,
and everything betokened life. But up
here the weird, wintry stiUness of the
suUen afternoon was unbroken, save by
the fitful rustUng of paper tassels hanging
from the roof, or the mournful stirring
of dead leaves upon the ground. The
effect was curious. Leaving the shrine,
I climbed further up the hill, and obtained
a grand view of the harbour, with the
Httle island at its entry girt by a wreath
of silvery surf. On my way back to the
yacht I paused to look through the Desema
bazaar of new china. Although under
ordinary circumstances the objects there
VOL. II. 0

82 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
would have struck me, perhaps, as handsome
and remarkably cheap, we had Hved during
the past week in such an atmosphere of
old art that this new work showed to very
poor advantage after it.

( 83 )

CHAPTEE V.
THE INLAND SEA.
Thanks to Captain Hotham, Commander
the Hon. H. W. Hood, and the many
pleasant acquaintances we formed on board
her Majesty's ships Charybdis and Pegasus,
our stay at Nagasaki was rendered extremely
agreeable. Succeeding as they did a long
interval of quiet, the dinners and tiffins with
which we were entertained on board thefr
ships, and their return visits to the yacht,
constituted a welcome change. We were
sorry, therefore, to leave both vessels lying
at anchor in the pretty bay, with every
prospect of remaining there for the ensuing
six weeks. Perhaps the worst feature in
traveUing is that to the all too rapid flight
of time is added the march of our progress.

84 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
The meetings are but for a second, and one's
passage through the world resembles " ladies'
chain " in a quadrille. We touch hands
Hghtly and then pass on, often with regret
that the acquaintance should have no longer
duration. The coast scenery we passed on our way
to Spec's Straits was bold and mountainous ;
the straits themselves narrow, winding, and
very pretty. The weather was bitterly cold.
Large flights of geese and ducks studded
the surface of the water and passed over
head incessantly. At daybreak next morn
ing we approached the Straits of SiminisUd,
and slowly, against the increasing current,
steamed through the mist-obscured scenery
towards the town. Here our Japanese
pUot had feared it woiUd be necessary to
anchor and wait the turn of the tide.
Slowly, however, the yacht crept up the
comparatively slack water opposite the town,
untU every yard of distance possible had
been gained; then, shooting out into the
current, which at first threatened to swing
her head round entirely, full steam was put

THE INLAND SEA. 85
on, and inch by inch she forced her way
through the narrow entry which compresses
the whole volume of the falling tide. As
we advanced the view expanded, until at
length, having cleared the gloomy and
abrupt hUls that form the gates, we passed
into the Inland Sea. A grand view — grand
if only for its expanse — extended before
us. Calm it was and peaceful, grey sky and
^rey sea ahke waking and warming to life
with the radiance of the early sun. Faint
fleecy clouds were melting fast away. Here
and there the stUl surface was just ruffled
by wayward breaths of morning air. Dotted
about on the water were the slack sails
of numberless junks and sampans, vanishing
gradually in perspective, until under the
shadows of the far-off blue and snowy
mountains it became a " tickle point of
niceness " to decide whether that tiny white
speck sat on the surface and was a saU, or
was but the reflection of some ghstening
peak shining in the placid deeps below.
Our queer little old-fashioned Japanese
pilot had established himself on a familiar

86 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
footing with us the day he came aboard.
Descending to the saloon where we were
seated, he saluted us politely, and drawing
an armchair up to the fireplace, lit his
pipe and spread his hands over the grate to
warm. The servants wished to conduct
him to the officers' quarters, but he was
such a dehghtfuUy quaint Httle old feUow
that H  told them to leave him. Fre
quently after this he used to drop in with a
smile and a bow, draw his chair up to the
fire, and smoke a pipe whilst he warmed
himself. European captains entertain what
I believe is a groundless prejudice against
Japanese pilots, H — — had every reason
to be most thoroughly satisfied with the
man he had engaged. He possessed, more
over, the vfrtue of temperance, nay, even
abstinence — " an exceUent thing in pilots."
Narabash had kindly volunteered to
accompany the yacht during the remainder
of her cruise in Japanese waters, and for
a respectable honorarium (which with
modest appreciation of his own abihties
he did not assess at any too low a figure)

THE INLAND SEA. 87
declared himseh" wUHng to assist in pro
curing more curios. The idea was no doubt
worthy of immediate attention from his
point of view, but H  did not feel con
vinced that a "connoisseur's" assistance
was so indispensable as he had thoughtfully
represented, nor could he be brought to see
that we should be more probably imposed
upon without his assistance than with it.
With poHte regret that gentleman's further
services were therefore declined.
Don Jose, alias " Joe," is himseU again.
Napoleon was given away at Nagasaki to a
French photographer. A sea life did not
agree with the dog, and had he been kept
on board much longer he would probably
have died. Consequently the poodle is
once more " monarch of aU he surveys,"
and has retaken the main hatchway pass to
the kitchen. To celebrate his restoration
he indulged in a pitched battle with the cat,
and reduced her to submission. I know not
what indemnity he exacted, but in the way
of territory the cat has been forced to cede
all her rights on the main and upper decks,

88 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.

retaining only a small province in the
fo'k'sle and the privUege of ratting in the
hold of the ship. The only creature now
on board that does not acknowledge his
supremacy is " Jacko," the monkey. Jacko
is so supernaturally quick in his movements
that Joe is wounded and the skirmish is
over before he can dress his teeth and make
him ready for the fray. AU that remains
for him to do is to sit on deck and growl
at the monkey in the rigging. Jacko's
great delight is to steal along the hen
coops and seize some unwary fowl through
the bars. Then he holds on like grim
death, and chatters with demoniacal glee
at the cackling and consternation he has
created. The funniest scene I ever saw
was a sparring match between him and a
gigantic Cochin China cock that had got
loose. The row they made between them
was enough to scare aU the fish within
a degree of the yacht. Jacko succeeded in
securing a few feathers, which he chewed
viciously in the intervals ; but the cock
was a determined warrior, and fought with

THE INLAND SEA. 89
such valour that the monkey availed himself
of an early opportunity to retreat.
Throughout the day the scenery was
interesting, though to a certain degree
monotonous, devoid as it was of colour, and
lacking that grandeur which alone can in
any measure compensate for such a loss.
We were fortunate in the weather. A cold
and cutting wind sprang up as the day wore
on, but the atmosphere was so beautifully
clear that we missed nothing of the scenery.
The yacht anchored for the night in
Horizen Bay at 9.30 p.m. Almost as soon
as day broke I was on the bridge with " Old
Johnny," the pUot. Gloomy hiUs, partially
curtained in mist, encfrcled us. Behind
them, in the clearer air above, rose pure
white peaks and snowy ranges. The cloudy
gates of dawn were slowly parting, and
young Day stole shyly forth with a rosy
blush and a doubtful glance, as half ashamed
or half afraid to face the austere night. For
Night is the Sister of Mercy who has taken
the veil ; Day, alas ! only a faithless courte
zan. She comes again half doubting to her

90 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
work. With every ageing second growing
in beauty, she feels her strength and waxes
bolder. Darkness is vanquished, her veil
is torn aside ; the far-off mountains burst
upon the view, and " where the mesmerizer
snow" has not entirely white-clothed and
wrought them in slumber, thefr red clay,
wet with the transient thaw, shines as if
in reflection. Myriad tiny riUs, trickling
down the hiUsides, flash like chaplets of
threaded jewels. No longer are the snowy
ranges ghost-like and wan. On then-
pure textures a thousand dim soft rain
bow hues, delicately penciUed, and melting
harmoniously through every nuance of
shading one into another, glow and fade,
gUsten and vanish, as though a transparent
web, woven of sunbeams, shadows, rays
of light, and faint reflections of the golden-
edged clouds, were playfuUy spread and
withdrawn, now here, now there, on their
sparkhng slopes. Low down clouds of mist,
that have clung to the valleys and bathed
the lesser hUls in white, break into curling
shapes and sail away after the vanished

THE INLAND SEA. 91
night. And at length whole fleets of sam
pans and fishing-boats, hidden from us
hitherto, are revealed scattered over the
sunht waters, which reproduces with kindred
tones, enhanced in depth and beauty, each
coloured saU and picturesque hulk. From
twihght to broad day, from clouded darkness'
and grey dawn to a pictured scene of sun
shine and fair weather, the transformation
was perfect. Had some bright guiding
spfrit, some celestial stage manager (since
" aU the world's a stage " such beings should
exist), from the summit of one of those far-
off pale peaks, watched calmly its comple
tion and with magic wand ordered its
mutations, they could not have been more
regular or beautiful. "The ripple of the
morning wave " curled and broke with crisp
music against the yacht's side, the pure
breath of the mountain air was borne across
her track, and, swiftly moving, we sped on
our second day's voyage.
The number of junks, sampans, and fish
ing-boats in the Inland Sea is remarkable.
Every bend and broad and narrow was

92 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
crowded with them. Frequently so nume
rous were the sails collected together, that
the scene strongly resembled a smaU boat
saUing regatta.
During aU the morning we steamed
through one long panorama of lovely scenery,
winding our way in and out of the "three
thousand islands," which formed a suc
cession of ever-changing beautiful lakes.
Vainly we strove to identify the island
of Awadsi, according to Japanese legendary
lore the home of the god Izanaghi and
his spouse Izanami (founders of the Kami or
Sinsyn faith), and the cradle of the Japanese
race. But as each island seemed more
beautiful than the last, and this was
supposed to be the most beautiful of aU,
evening came and we were stiU undecided.
To-day the scenery was altogether finer
than yesterday; some of the snow-clad
mountain chains, particularly that part of
the Niphon range near Marugame, being
lofty and very striking. On the whole,
the likeness between this and Swiss scenery
is very striking. Some truth there may

THE INLAND SEA. 93

be in the accusation of barrenness brought
sometimes against the Inland Sea country.
Certain districts do perhaps suffer fr-om
a lack of trees and foHage. To us this
was the more noticeable, journeying as
we had dfrectly from the prodigal vegeta
tion of Siam. Formerly the country was
covered with camphor-wood and other
trees, but reckless feUing, unaccompanied
by any planting, has utterly denuded it
in places of its natural covering ; and had
not Government taken the matter in hand,
this abuse was spreading so rapidly that
in a short time Japan, like Spain, might
have suffered fi-om its chmatio effects.
One of the most extraordinary features
of the country is the remarkable extent
to which the hills have been terraced for
cultivation. The labour and industry thus
expended must have been enormous.
Amongst the lesser hiUs were some carved
from summit to base, into smaU oblong
and square patches. The effect is very
curious. We were more fortunate even than on

94 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.

the previous day in the weather. Until
a late hour in the afternoon it was beauti
fuUy clear and almost warm, an unusual
eu-cumstance here at this time of the year
(early in February), It seemed, indeed,
as if a summer's day had gone astray in
the calendar, and fallen by accident
amidst its wintry brethren. At nine p.m.
we anchored, and on the following day
proceeded to Kobe. The islands were
cleared, the loch-hke scenery was at an end,
and again we were in the open — open, at
least, for the Inland Sea, for stUl land could
always be discovered, and frequently our
course lay close in shore. Constant oppor
tunities were thus afforded of observing the
picturesque Httle -viUages that nestled by
the water's edge, at the head of miniature
bays, or on the gardened hUlsides, ani
mating the picturesque shores of the Inland
Sea with signs of Hfe.
What an Arcadia would this be for artists !
Living is to be had at a mere nominal rate.
For a few shillings a week a man may obtain
all that he requires. The people are delight-

THE INLAND SEA. 95
ful in their simplicity, and eagerness to
obhge, and other uncivUized virtues. Apart
from the numherless pictm-es Japanese life
and viUages afford, subjects of a grander
nature may be found for the canvas at every
turn, for the scenery is fuU of point and
character and the right size for painting.
We unfortunately only saw the sea from the
sea, or from its most disadvantageous point
of view — the case, it seems to me, with aU
scenery in which water is a prominent
feature. No more perfect sketching tour
coiUd be conceived than to wander round
the shores of this fafry-Hke sea. Permission
to do so would have to be obtained, but
this, I beheve, could be easily managed.

96 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.

CHAPTEE VI.
KOBE.
By two o'clock the Witch had anchored
at Kobe, before the stereotyped quay, pro
menade, basin, row of respectable white
houses, hotel and consular flags to be seen
in aU parts of the world. Everything
looked spio and span new, and seemed
"made to match," as if, in thefr hunger
for Western novelties, the Japanese had
ordered the whole front of the town of
some enterprising Yankee contractor, and
"got it out ready made" from the States.
Soon a boat from H.M.S. Sylvia (a gun
boat employed in surveying the Inland
Sea) boarded us, and later on in the after
noon S  and I went for a run ashore
to stretch our legs.

KOBE. 97
Next morning we started on a general
inspection of the curio shops. Curio deal
ing is here carried on in a far more
systematic manner than at Nagasaki.
Several bric-h-brac shops and warehouses
exist, and besides the professional merchants
there are a number of amateur dealers, who
increase thefr- incomes by exporting Japa
nese articles for the American and European
markets. Foreigners' tastes and discrimina
tion are consequently gauged to a nicety,
and the shops abound in cheap rubbish
and newly manufactured goods, differing
only fr-om those seen at Singapore in then-
less monstrous prices. At one shop we
certainly did see a few specimens of old
work that were very fine. The owner
acknowledged that he had but little really
good gold lacquer on hand, but offered to
send to a neighbouring Daimio, who had
some he was wUhng to dispose of. The
castles of the Daimios have become almost
the sole depositories of these old works
of art, no longer now produced in Japan.
It is to be regretted that so exquisite an
VOL. II. ^

98 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
art should so rapidly have declined. Soon
its secrets wiU be lost and the faculty
wiU have perished, whilst the miserable
manufactures and cheap imitations of the
day live and flourish.
Not alone in Japan is such deplorable
falling away in art and manufactures
visible. All the world over the conflict
between substance and "shoddy," between
art and merchandise, is being fought out.
" Shoddy," unfortunately, gains ground
and artists become manufacturers. Pace
and cheapness are the spfrits of the age.
We live too fast, with the results that usuaUy
characterize any hurried performance. To
produce some of these small lacquer trifles
has been the work of years. A waste of
time, do you say? Is that time wasted
which results in anything beautiful? and
are those years more barren which produce
a few mature works of real value than those
which bring forth hundreds of worthless
objects that pleasure no man ?
NaturaUy the price of old work was high,
though not so in proportion to the labour

KOBE. 99
it exhausted. Native artists were fostered
and rewarded by the Daimios, whose re
tainers in many cases they were. But the
glory of the Daimios has departed; their
power and estates have been wrested frorn
them ; the pecuniary compensation they
received fr-om Government has been squan
dered or speculated away, and they, so far
from patronizing others, are in many in
stances paupers themselves. The manu
facture of old lacquer, or rather of good
lacquer, and china is abandoned, simply be
cause it no longer finds purchasers. It pays
far better to produce cheap and common
articles. Visitors should not attempt to
buy untU they have had some opportunities
of contrasting, with the assistance of a good
judge, the two styles, new and old. A
comparatively shght knowledge wiU obviate
any flagrant impositions. It is difficult to
give rules for discriminating between them,
although, once compared, they are not easy
afterwards to confuse. The majority of
good articles that we saw were in gold
lacquer. Of this the new work shines Hke

100 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
French polish, and has the appearance of
being covered with ordinary varnish, whereas
the old presents a duller and more decidedly
metallic lustre. It is almost impossible to
make any impression on it with the finger-
naU, but the new is comparatively soft. It
is frequently possible, if new lacquer is held
in a certain light, to detect the grain of the
wood beneath it ; with old lacquer the back
and interior of every article may be care
fuUy scrutinized, without any such dis
covery being made. New lacquer kept in
the damp peels off; old lacquer does not.
A good test of the quality of the article is
to damp the finger and, dipping it in cigar
or tobacco ash, apply it to a part of the gilt
design. Good lacquer will stand the rub
bing; but with bad lacquer the gilding is
also inferior, and a smart appUcation will
remove it. The artistic taste and talent
displayed in the design, the thickness of the
gUding it is worked in, the general work
manship and perfection of finish, wiU, if
taken into consideration, aU help to form
a shrewd judgment.

KOBE. 101
In hke manner with china, the taste and
talent displayed in colouring and design,
the colours, whether pure or dfrty, even or
blotchy, well blended and contrasted, or
thrown together anyhow, wiU greatly assist
the purchaser in deciding whether the
object belongs to the new or the old style.
Too much faith should not be placed in the
china marks. They are frequently imitated ;
moreover, the bottoms of old china articles
that have been broken are often preserved
and fitted into new pieces.
Leaving the regular merchants, we
plunged into back streets and byways,
seeing in the course of our peregrinations
through pawnbrokers' establishments, small
dealers' shops, and out-of-the-way corners,
many rare and valuable curios. There is
stUl much to be seen and bought in the
way of curios. The stock is, however, daily
diminishing. Every succeeding visitor will
have to devote more time to hunting for
them, and will find the Japanese of all
classes fuUy ahve to their increasing value.
Provisions in Japan, at this time of the

102 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
year, are excellent and moderate in price.
The beef is good, and there is a profusion
of game. In fact, Kobe on this score is
the best place we have stopped at.
Unworthy sightseers at the best of times,
here we have degenerated into curio hunters.
Our intention had .been to-day to go up to
Kioto, but the morning broke so thoroughly
wet, cheerless, and miserable, that we
put it off indefinitely. After breakfast the
weather cleared, and we spent the early
part of what had turned out a fine sunny
afternoon in the dens of pawnbrokers
and curio dealers. Subsequently we rode
out towards the waterfaU, and cHmbed to
the first and second falls. In summer,
when flowers, ferns, and foHage are abroad,
the whole scene, with the quaint Httle tea
houses perched on odd ledges overhanging
the water, must be very pretty. Now,
however, the country is partiaUy under
snow, and both the streams are so attenu
ated and small that they could with ease
pass through a three-inch pipe. From a
point near the higher fall a grand view of

KOBE. 103

the Inland Sea can be obtained. Osaka Hes
on the left, Kobe beneath, and on the far
side the Niphon range, white and "wintry,
sends its broad reflections through the sea,
right into the sunny bay below.
Eeturning, we visited a Sintoo temple,
known commonly amongst Europeans here
as the temple of the White Horse. My
Sintoo readers * must pardon me if I smUe
when the picture of that noble animal rises
before me. I was prepared to find that —
" The angry steed did chide his foaming bit,
As much disdaining to the curb to yield ; "
but, poor ragged, unkempt, tame old gray
pony, you might have stuck pins into him
aU over, and he would not have evinced
the slightest irritation. He had not a
"bit," and had he possessed a bit he
wouldn't have chidden it, and it wouldn't
have foamed. So far from disdaining to
yield, I am sure it was the only thing he
was really capable of doing quickly. He
* The Sinsyn faith consists in the worship of ances
tors. Probably^ therefore, many are Sintoos in this
country without being aware of it.

104 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.

had two wall-eyes, softening of the brain,
a- cold in his Eoman nose, and looked pre
maturely gray and wUHng to die. We fed
him with the orthodox offering of beans
pm-chased at a near stall, and he ate them
as if it was a weary duty. On the other
side of the gate were two monkeys in
equally wretched condition.
The temple consisted of a shrine with a
roof over it, such as may be seen sometimes
over a well, in the country, or over the
wicket-gate of a country churchyard. Near
it was a raised platform simUarly roofed —
used, we were told, by the " fighting men,"
probably wrestlers.* Around were lesser
buildings devoted to various purposes. One
of them contained the graven image of
a white horse in an advanced stage of
megrims. Near the steps of the shrine was
* The wrestlers in Japan form one of the oldest
guilds, if the term is applicable, in the world ; the foun
dation being dated 659 b.c, in the reign of Zimmon,
first of the Mikados. They are under royal protection.
The company is regularly organized and subdivided
into small companies that travel about. All are subject
to a grand master residing in Kioto.

KOBE. 105
the usual monohth tank or lavatory, A
priest and woman came, whilst we were
there, to pray. Devotions were commenced
by striking a gong, suspended from the roof,
with a bead-worked rope that hung beside
it. Then, standing with bowed heads, they
muttered prayers rapidly, pausing perpe
tuaUy to clap thefr hands. The costume
of the priest resembled somewhat that of
a Greek priest, but was yeUow in colour.
As is the case, I beheve, with aU Sintoo
teinples, this is overgrown and hidden by
fine trees, whose leafy arms, spreading
abroad, dim with solemn shades the scene
of the Sintoo rehgious ceremonies. To
morrow we do not leave as originally in
tended, but are going to Arrima.

106 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.

CHAPTEE VII,
AEEIMA,
At half-past ten we started, each in a jin
riksha drawn by three men, a wheeler and
two leaders — picked teams possessed of won
derful going and staying powers. Off they
went at a rapid trot, swinging round corners
and dashing down the crowded thorough
fares in a manner which threatened to
enliven the commencement of the journey
with striking incident. However, they
proved very handy, and the foot passengers
exhibited fowl-Hke dexterity in avoiding the
wheels, so that we escaped accident.
Dollars were said to be useless up country.
Before quitting the town it was necessary,
therefore, to procure change. The first
money-changer we applied to (an individual

ARRIMA. 107

smoking calmly over a hibatchi) said he
should have been happy to oblige us, but
unfortunately he had no money. Eather a
disadvantage in his business. However, a
second supplied us with some quires of
paper money for a few doUars. Paper
money is at a discount in Japan. Lately
it has heavily increased. Some enterprising
students of our European civihzation im
ported a fellow machine to that used by
the Government for manufacturing notes,
and continued their operations with such
success that they had circulated two milhon
doUars before suspicion ahghted on them.
The imitations proved to be so accurate
that it was found impossible to distinguish
between the good and bad notes, conse
quently the Government was forced into the
dUemma of repudiating or acknowledging all
ahke. They chose the latter course. How
far this story may be true in its details, I
know not . Without vouching for its veracity,
I give it as the currently accepted explana
tion of the steadily decHning value of paper
money here. A Mexican dollar is now

108 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
(February, 1880) worth, in paper, one dollar
thirty-seven and a half cents. The most
serious result of this reckless issue of notes
has been to deprive the country of its small
silver currency. Bankers have bought the
greater part of it up with paper, and have
exported, it to Singapore, Hong Kong,
Shanghai, and other ports.
To return to our ride. The roads were
very heavy, and most of our men, at the
commencement not by any means over
burdened with clothing, gradually divested
themselves of everything but a narrow strip
of caHco. Two or three, however, sup
ported the constraint of a shirt, whilst two
men of the dozen — worthy disciples of "le
respectable regisseur de MademoiseUe de
Bellavoine " in a witty French novel — so
far deviated from what I take to be the
general custom amongst jinriksha men once
escaped from the precincts of a treaty port,
as to complete the journey in breeches.
Many of the men were beautifully tattooed,
a practice the Japanese carry to the highest
pitch of perfection. More wiUing workmen

ARRIMA. 109

I never saw ; they were as cheery and
light-hearted as a band of children holiday-
making. The shghtest approach to a joke
was reUshed by them, and on the least
provocation they were ready to go into fits
of laughter.
The Japanese are the most dehghtful
people I have ever met with. I aUude, of
course, to those of them who have not yet
been Europeanized, or what, with blunt
egotism or keen frony, we are pleased to
term civihzed. Thefr manners are perfect —
a trait, by the way, which distinguishes the
Eastern from Western nations generally.
Why should it be so ? Is it that the spirit
of good manners Hes in the commandment,
" Do unto others as you would they should
do unto you," and that this being entirely
opposed to the whole instinct and educa
tion of the trading Western, whose creed is
rather to "Do others, or they are sure to
do you," it is impossible for it to enter into
his daUy life ? At any rate, we have a mar
veUous knack of corrupting the manners of
any previously isolated people we come into

110 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
contact with, and the difference between
the Europeanized Japanese and his stiU
benighted brothers is sufficiently marked
afready. To my perverted mind the be
nighted brethren are charming in their sim
plicity, good nature, gaiety, and honesty.
And the women — oh, the women I so win
ning and gentle, and wonderfully pretty,
some of them. Can this be vice which is
so modest and unconscious ? We are
taught to beheve it. And yet, would you
take your moral yard measure and apply
the same standard all the world over?
" There is nothing either good or bad, but
thinking makes it so," Let us not think,
therefore, for the question who is right
will stiU arise. Every one moral code or
religion consigns every other to perdition.
The only thing we can be certain of is that,
if there is a hereafter, we shall aU be either
lost or saved, and the question of which
depends upon circumstances or not, as
the case may be. But for the dark-eyed
daughters of Japan, if you would see them
aright, come quickly ; come before we have

ARRIMA. Ill

perverted thefr" taste in dress with our
strained fashions ; come before young ladies'
seminaries have changed their natural art-
lessness into mincing affectation and con
cealed calculation; come whilst a trace of
the old Japanese character and manner yet'
remains to charm you; for civUization, so
caUed, marches apace here, and if you
hasten not it wiU soon be too late.
But where are, or rather were we ? Some
where on the road to Arrima, if I mistake
not. Pardon me, reader, it is so easy for
one to stray when Japanese girls lead the
way. WeU, to return — I mean, go on.
Our road lay up a mountain pass, up, up,
up, untU — (A vaunt, ye Japanese maidens !
My reader wiU none of you!) — until we
reached the snow. By degrees the heavy
fog cleared off, and the rest of the day was
bright and sunny. The scenery was charm
ing, rich in contrasted foliage of bronze and
gold, scarlet and deep- dyed crimson, dark
evergreen and royal purple, amidst all
which lay interspersed patches of pure
white snow. The feathery bamboo tossed

112 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
its Hssom plumage next the sturdy oak, and
funereal-plumed pine trees in the back
ground seemed darker stiU by comparison
with the star-leaved maple on the slope before
them. Through three or four picturesque
-viUages we passed. Thefr frregularity and
the low-thatched roofs of the cottages put
one strongly in mind of Bulgarian hamlets.
And now our route wound along a highly
cultivated vaUey, where the terraced land
was walled up with stone, and buUt up -with
turf in a manner which betokened endless
labour and industry. Each level was irri
gated by a little streamlet of water, and
every patch was gardened with scrupulous
care and neatness.
When at length we came to a halt in the
shady streets of Arrima, it was found thafr
our men had brought us there at the rate
of five mUes an hour. Considering the
fearful condition of the roads and the hUly
route, this was an exceUent performance.
FoUowing our guide, we walked up to
the tea-house, and ate the lunch we had
brought with us. Our hostess, a busy,

ARRIMA. 113

shaven-headed old dame, bustled about and
received us with the greatest empressement.
Her hand-shaking and attentions were quite
overwhelming. If any one moved to look
out of window, she foUowed him with a
chafr ; and, doubtless with the kind intention
of interesting us, she later on brought a
crowd of grandchildren and babies in to be
admired. We said, of course, that they
seemed to be the right pattern, were nice
and fat for their age, etc., etc., and ex
plained, through our interpreter, how de
lighted we were to have an opportunity
of seeing them; in fact, told aU the lies
appropriate for the cfrcumstance. But
why, oh, why have mothers such mis
taken notions of amusement, and such a
fearful misconception of the beautiful ?
Grandmothers are old enough to know
better, but they, I think, are even worse.
Who but an immediate progenitor can
admire the prognathous cheeks, the concave
nose with window-like nostrils, the tuber
ous bulging forehead, the unmeaning waU-
eyes, the furry poll, and the body of a baby
VOL. n, I

114 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
which for aU the world is like a crab turned
on its back. The creature violates every
canon and proportion recognized by artists
as appertaining to beauty, and yet  Yes,
I am quite ready. Good-bye, old lady.
Effusive hand-shaking, and we depart.
The tea-house garden was a fair sample
of hundreds of others you may see in Japan
— a doll's garden, a garden in miniature.
It seems as if one saw it through a reversed
telescope. Dwarf trees were planted in
its mazes ; tiny paths a foot or less broad
meandered in and out its diminutive grottoes.
Lihputian bridges spanned trickhng rUls
and cascades, and pigmy summer-houses
were erected on the brinks of minute lakes.
The effect was odd and very pretty. Why
do not some of you make a Japanese garden
in a corner of your o-vm? It would only
occupy a space of twenty or thirty feet by
ten or twelve.
Now that we are clear of those chUdren,
it occurs to me to mention that the old
lady's shaven head was a sign of widow
hood. Married women in Japan also

ARRIMA. 115

blacken their teeth and pluck out their
eyebrows — a curious custom, which one
would fancy must have originated with
the husband, perhaps the jealous husband.
Owing to foreign example, however, aU these
old fashions are being abandoned, and
though — the foxes that have afready lost
their taUs being in the majority and
possessing considerable influence — they are
losing ground but slowly, stiU new customs
are, as a rule, so readily adopted by the
people that travellers in another generation
may find black teeth, plucked eyebrows,
and shaven heads scarce, if not almost
unique. Arrima, a Japanese watering-place, de
hghtfuUy situated in the mountains, is a
smaU vUlage, distant about twelve miles
from Kobe. In the summer its sulphur
baths attract a large number of visitors ;
indeed, I am told that the baths are
crowded to overflowing, and bathers fiU
the streams that run by the roadside.
This and basket-work — carried by the
natives to a most wonderful pitch of per-

116 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
fection^ are its chief claims to local
importance. In the village we filled the
jinrikshas with specimens of basket-work
so delicate and frail that I am afraid they
wUl be crushed long before England is
reached. Then we looked into the bath
houses. Here men and women, unconscious
of the shghtest immodesty, bathe together
in puris naturalibus, and in this state
remain immersed to their chins in a large
tank of hot water. A rather pretty woman
and three men occupied the bath when
we entered ; the party was soon augmented
by the arrival of three girls and two men,
who, casting off thefr loose garments, stepped
calmly in and bobbed about with the rest,
the water clothing them. The bath-keeper
was anxious that we also should bathe, but
we stopped our ears and fled away. Will
you say that these Japanese must be a
most immoral people ? Truly it is not so.
With the exception of a certain class, their
women are fairly vfrtuous. Nowhere is the
marriage tie more honestly respected while
it lasts. The baths of Arrima are not unique ;

ARRIMA. 117

throughout Japan the publio baths present
the same spectacle. Honi soit qui mal y
pense. The natives see no harm in it ; they
are unable to comprehend the feehngs of a
foreigner who argues the point with them,
and such being the case, there is in reahty
less immodesty in a Japanese bath-house
than in a European baU-room with its fair
dames bien decolletees and weU "tied back."
Eeturning to Kobe, darkness overtook us,
so our men made large torches of brush
wood and bamboo, which lighted up the
scenery splendidly, and created many
curious effects as they rattled through dark
vaUeys and shadowy passes. They brought
us back, if anything, faster than they had
taken us, and with one or two narrow shaves
of going off the road and down the steep
hUlside, we reached Kobe in good time
for dirmer.
Amongst Japanese marriage laws is one
that attracts attention, and haply, too, not
a little envy, from the wedded foreigner.
A man here may take unto himself a wife
on trial (on a short lease as it were).

118 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
and not hking her, give her a written
character and send her away. So at least
I was told ; I did not verify the informa
tion either experimentally or by research.
Unchastity does not bear the same stigma
here that an infringement of our stern
moral code would involve in virtuous
Britain. Formerly it was legal for a father
to sell his daughters, and, without any
feehng of degradation, they were often (if
the parent was poor) disposed of to be
educated and retained in brothels. In like
manner men, without distinction of rank,
frequently selected their wives from these
establishments, and excellent wives they
were said to become. So far from being
degraded in the eyes of the people, courte
sans of reputation, or rather of renown, were
wont, on certain occasions, to take part in
the religious processions and ceremonies.
Now, although the buying and selling of
girls is prohibited, a daughter, if her parents
are in difficulties, will voluntarUy surrender
herself to the keeper of a night-house for
a sum of money. On the other hand, it

ARRIMA. 119

may be said that intrigue is rare, and the
streets of Japanese towns are guiltless of_
the reproaches which may be levelled
against the capitals of Europe, and particu
larly of England.
The foreign concession at Kobe is about
half a mile square. Within this small
space are gathered together a great variety
of nationaUties. It possesses a Chamber
of Commerce, a local board, two clubs, three
or four places of worship, and is inhabited
by missionaries of sundry sects and a galaxy
of haughty consuls. Little wonder, there
fore, that with these elements of discord
the results are cheerful. A characteristic
tale is told about the difficulty that arose
in naming the streets. The British were
determined to christen everything a la
WeUington Street, the French h la Eue
Napoleon ; the Americans voted for Avenues,
the Germans would hear of nothing but
Kaiser Strasse and Vaterland Platz, whUst
a few ItaHans plaintively murmured for, at
any rate, one Strada di Napoli or Via
Fiorenze. Each community sought to

120 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
impose its own patriotic nomenclature, and
the dispute was finaUy settled by simply
numbering the houses.
On the morning following our excursion
to Arrima, the lacquer and curios from the
Daimios arrived on board. It was a superb
collection, containing specimens of rare
beauty. At mid-day the yacht got under
way and started for Yokohama.

( 121 )

CHAPTEE VIII.
YOKOHAMA AND TOKIO.
The tourist route in Japan has been so
lately and so excellently described by Lady
Brassey in her charming book, " The Voyage
of the Sunbeam," that very little remains
to be said on the subject ; the more es
peciaUy as the authoress, whose energy
seems to have been boundless, saw not
only every place that we visited, but very
many others besides. " The Voyage of the
Sunbeam " is a book without which no
yacht should -visit these waters. Apart
from consideration of the numberless idle
hours it spfrits away in pleasant reading, a
vast amount of useful information is con
tained therein, and it is frequently of service
as a book of reference. " How long did it

122 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
take the Sunbeam to go from  to
 ?" "What does Mrs. Brassey say
about so and so ? " " What did they see at
 ?" are questions we daUy asked and
found answered. It is the "best-thumbed"
book in the ship. Here, as at Kobe, we
were on Lady Brassey's ground, and must
confess our inferiority (men always must by
comparison with the opposite sex) as sight
seers. If the reader cares to know what we
saw, let him search the Sunbeam'' s chronicles,
and he wiU find it there, with much besides,
told in a style that is always easy, always
pleasant, and never wearisome.
At Yokohama we drop again into a
European quarter, attached to a semi-Euro-
peanized Japanese town, with its curio
shops and curio streets, containing a vast
array of trash, intermingled with a few, very
few, things worthy of notice, and hardly
anything that might not be bought in
London or Paris. There is a fine esplanade
and one or two good hotels. The most
interesting place of aU to visit that we
found, was " Andersen's Photographic

YOKOHAMA AND TOKIO. 123
Studio," where a reaUy fine collection of
views of the interior of Japan may be seen.
Judging from these, the country must be
lovely ; but I am more than ever convinced
that summer is the time to see it to ad
vantage. Yokohama and its immediate
neighbourhood are not remarkable for fine
scenery, with the exception, perhaps, of
Mississipi Bay. The "plains of Heaven,"
-within easy reach, are, however, weU worth
a visit. Facetious residents strongly recom
mend you to profit by the excellent oppor
tunity thus afforded you of going there.
Tokio, the ancient Yeddo, is about an
hour's journey by train from Yokohama.
The engines are chiefly driven by Japanese
engineers; indeed, only two Englishmen
are stUl thus employed. Throughout aU
branches of pubhc works, the same system
is being observed ; and wherever the native
Japanese feel themselves strong enough,
thefr foreign masters are being gradually
superseded. Travelhng -with us was an English sports
man, with dog and gun, bound on a few

124 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
days' shooting. The pheasant shooting in
Japan was formerly very fine, and at some
distance from the treaty ports is doubtless
so still. Within thefr immediate vicinity
the country has, however, been much shot
over, and ninety brace of bfrds kiUed by
three guns in six days was quoted as the
best bag of the season. In Yesso I am told
that bears and other large game abound.
European dogs, when imported, invariably
get " worm in the heart," and die. Dissec
tion in some cases has revealed the heart in
a frightful condition, Httle better, in fact,
than a bunch of worms.
Passing three forts that command the ap
proach by water to Tokio, or would be able
to do so were they armed, the train drifted
into the station of the capital, and a few
minutes later, with tandem jinrikshas, we
were trundling through the streets to the
Seijoke Hotel. Here the accommodation
was tolerable — far better than we had been
led to anticipate. A S-wiss cook, manager,
boots or something, is attached to the place,
which is managed in European style. The
rooms were clean and the people obliging.

YOKOHAMA AND TOKIO. 125
That fine, drizzling rain which wets you
through quicker than any other sort of rain,
and looks far more hopeless and dreary, had
been placidly faUing since daybreak. It
was descending stUl, and it continued with
out intermission for the next twelve hours.
Consequently Tokio was a sea of mud, and
the clog-walking inhabitants, vainly trying
to shelter themselves beneath paper um-
breUas, looked as abjectly miserable as
drenched fowls. The paper houses must
have had a great time of it. In rain, I
should fancy, an ordinary sieve would afford
as much protection as a Japanese house.
It is extraordinary that in a country where
for a fafr third of the year they are subject
to inclement and often severe weather, the
people should be content to dwell in such
frail habitations. The frequency of earth
quakes may have influenced them originally
in choosing this style of architecture ; but
of late years the shocks have not been
severe, and the extra loss which, had they
been more substantial houses, an earthquake
would entaU on them, both in hfe and

126 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
property, would be far more than saved in
the decrease of the losses by fire they, under
existing circumstances, annually experience.
It was formerly estimated that Tokio was
completely burnt and rebuilt in the course
of every five years.
From the hotel we went to the legation,
where, in the absence of Sir Harry Parkes,
Mr. Kennedy was acting as charge d'affaires.
The legation is near the old palace of the
Tycoons, who, until deposed in 1868, made
Tokio thefr place of residence. It hes in
the centre of the city, surrounded by triple
moats and fortifications that enclose a large
area of ground. The fortifications are now
dismantled, and the ground within them
partially built over and devoted to the pur
poses of driU grounds, etc. Within the
second line, and near an entry to the gardens
of the Mikado, is the British legation.
From the legation we went for a tour round
part of the town, pausing at several points
of interest, amongst others Uyeno, where a
decisive victory was gained by the Mikado
over the Tycoon's troops in 1869.

YOKOHAMA AND TOKIO. 127
Owing, perhaps, to the miserable weather,
Tokio did not present a lively aspect. It is
a large, straggling town, composed of wooden ¦
and paper houses. For these, in one
quarter, where the last great fire took place,
less picturesque though more substantial
" go-downs " have been substituted. Under
more favourable circumstances, the busy
scene, the crowded population, and the in
terminable rows of shops must be rather
striking. A plentiful sprinkling of the queer
little toy soldiers in those useless and
absurd French gaiters, and here and there
a pony-mounted little officer whose legs
look more like loose-hanging ornamental
appendages than part of the man, may be
seen parading the streets with a conceited
afr which would almost do credit to a
Prussian officer.
The only place we stayed at for any
length of time was the temple of Asakusa.
Leading up to it is a street of toy shops
and gambhng booths, where, cards and dice
being prohibited, the natives play a kind of
bagateUe -without cues. This is terminated

128 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
by an enormous gate haU painted red. On
either side of. it are two colossal figures,
a la Gog and -Magog. The one is supposed
to welcome back lost sheep ; the other, those
who have not strayed. Before one of the
figures hung scores of straw-plaited sandals,
the propitiatory offerings of the sore-footed.
In the vicinity of this gate the ground is so
covered with tame pigeons that it is difficult
to avoid stepping on them. The sacred
bfrds did not look happy. Eain had, I
imagine, damped the ardour of thefr chari
table devotees, and offerings and religious
business generaUy seemed slack.
Asakusa, a heavy wooden structure, may
formerly have been handsome. Its gigantic
beams and massive construction have still
something imposing about them. But its
gUded glories have long since departed, and
it stands out now an uncompromising night
mare of red paint. Within, it is dilapidated ;
the carving and decorations have lost their
richness, the frescoes are decaying. Near
the entrance a large barred money box
invites voluntary contributions. A curious

YOKOHAMA AND TOKIO. 129
image stands on one side of the shrine ; it
is supposed to possess the virtue of healing
the sick. By constant rubbing, its features
have been so nearly obhterated that it
seems sadly to need a heaUng touch itself.
The temple occupies the centre of a large
fair. A motley coUection of booths, a
theatre, waxwork show, tea shops, shooting
gaUeries, bagatelle dens, etc., are crowded
round it ; but to-day, for some reason,
everything was closed.
Lea-ving the temple, we returned to the
hotel. After dinner we paid a visit to the
theatre, La Scala, the Covent Garden of
Tokio. Lately it has been redecorated at a
cost of thirty thousand dollars. Hundreds
of jinrikshas, -with thefr coloured lanterns,
were waiting outside. In the entrance were
two immense heaps of straw sandals and
umbreUas. I was speculating on the glorious
row there would be when each person sought
his own, when the people began to come out
and quietly appropriated the first that came.
We had arrived half an hour too late ; the
piece, which had been running. aU day, was
VOL. II. K

130 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
over. The interior of the house was of
plain wood, with red cloth hangings. With
a few texts and brass fittings, it would have
made an excellent temple for some sect of
modern Pharisees.
The most favourable point of "vdew from
which to mark Japan's advance in modern
ization is the bazaar. This serves as a sort
of civUizometer. It is somewhat on the
principle of an exhibition, and consists of a
straggling succession of buUdings, containing
examples of every branch of modern industry
practised in Japan. Specimens of old work
are not admissible. Everything must be of
the newest. Thus, you may see here exactly
to what pitch Japan has reached in her
manufactures. Looking at it in this manner,
it is extremely interesting and weU worth
a long and careful examination. The pur
chasing of fronclads, the formation of an
army, pubhc works, and foreign treaties are
no real signs of movement in unison with
the times. They may, after aU, be mere
hollow imitations, or at most a distant
straggling in the wake of what is caUed

YOKOHAMA AND TOKIO. 131

progress. A rapid survey of this bazaar
reveals at once that more than this is here
the case, and warrants the conclusion that
forced, artificial civUization, so often proved
a commercial failure, is in this instance
Hkely to take root and flourish. It. is not
Hmited, as usuaUy occurs, to a simple graft
ing of French pohsh and Enghsh vices on
to native indolence in the higher classes,
but the blessing of civUization has reached
the people. They have learnt that shoddy
pays better than good stuff, and that quan
tity is more remunerative than quality.
" But these are the days of advance, the works of the
men of mind.
When who but a fool would have faith in a trades
man's ware or his word ! "
The lesson appointed for the day is that
honesty and truth are foolish old prejudices
which must be abandoned if you would
prosper and grow rich. They are picking
up these crumbs of knowledge with surpris
ing aptitude. Their initiation is, of course,
stiU incomplete. They may still possess
scruples from which to free themselves. But

132 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
such, in all matters, is thefr- capacity for
receiving instruction that they may hope-
fuUy look forward to an approximate mil
lennium of wooden nutmegs, pine-tree
hams, strikes, bank swindles, wife kickings,
divorce reports, raUway accidents, sancti
monious hypocrisy within doors, and vice
on the pavement. Eehgious scruples wiU
not impede thefr progress, for amongst
the upper classes rehgion is laughed at as a
tale of the nursery, a superstition of the
poor. The very fact of their prolonged iso
lation, which at first sight would seem to
render them unfitted for receiving new
customs, has rather favoured the movement,
inasmuch as it has thrown them back upon
themselves, driven them to endless repeti
tion, and consequently developed in them
the strong tendency they possess to imitate.
This faculty of imitation is one of their
most marked characteristics ; and when,_as
is in this case proved by then- works, it has
descended from father to son through long
generations, self-reliance, originality, and
the power of judgment and criticism must

YOKOHAMA AND TOKIO. 133
have suffered. It required, therefore, only
to break through their reserve and arrest
thefr attention with new ideas and fresh
customs for them to be adopted en masse.
Whether the Japanese are happier or com
paratively better off now than they were
under the old regime is very much to be
doubted. "Shoddy" and the missionary
wiU promptly answer, "Yea, verily;" but
if you ask yonder jinriksha man, who was
formerly a noble, he may tell a different
tale. Nor have the poorer classes any
cause to be grateful for the change ; rice
and simUar commodities, for which there
was formerly no export, daUy advance in
price, whUst the demand for labour h^/S not
as yet kept pace with the increased expense
of li-ving, and they look back with longing
regret to the prosperous days that are gone.
However, the blessing of civihzation is now
in thefr grasp ; they can hear " the word ; "
and no doubt by-and-by they will manufac
ture enough " shoddy " to enable them to
go to the devU in luxury.
Although we spent some hours in the

134 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
bazaar we were unable to see half of it. The
place is divided into several departments, all
of which are connected. Everything is sold
at a fixed price. I could not help thinking
that were it not for this drawback, which
does away at one feU swoop with aU the
charm of a bargain, what an ideal paradise
this endless labyrinth and maze of staUs
would be for good old women.
The temple of Shiba in Tokio is reputed
to be the handsomest edifice of the kind
in Japan, exceeding in splendour even its
twin-temple Uyeno in the same city.
Formerly the Tycoons were entombed
alternately at Shiba and Uyeno, and on
these, thefr- last resting-places, the love of
imperial magnificence they ever exhibited
has culminated in a final effort to write
their memories in gorgeous capitals on the
page of time. *Under the shadow of the
grand old trees that cast a leafy veU betwixt
Shiba and the busy turmoil of the city, Hes
the last Tycoon who died in power. Little
enough he recks of the sweeping changes
wrought in the country he would have closed

YOKOHAMA AND TOKIO. 135
to the "red-haired barbarians" of outer
darkness; though, if aught could rouse
the dead, surely such marvellous revolutions
were enough to wake the old despot from
the quiet grave.
We enter, from the lane, a large court
yard. Eanged with grim regularity round
its inner edge are rows of stone urns or
lanterns about eight feet high, bearing
inscriptions which signify that they are
presented with all reverence to the defunct
ruler by his lesser vassals of the fifth rank.
Beyond this, through an open gateway,
a ghmpse is caught of a similar courtyard,
similarly decorated. Undisturbed quiet
and solemnity reigns here. No one is
passing. Giant trees shut us in from the
world. A ghnt of cold sunshine comes
to us from the wintry sky aloft, and all that
is seen of life are s-wift solitary birds that
wing their fiight across the cloudy wastes.
To the left is the Dragon Gate, with horrific
dragons intertwined and chnging round the
supports of its elaborate roof; and this
alone, if there was nothing more beyond it.

136 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
would lavishly reward a visit. In truth,
it is wonderfuUy handsome, rich in gUt and
carving of grouped flowers and quaint forms.
Through the bronze open gates Hes a
second courtyard, miniature by comparison
with the first. Here stand arrayed the
hronze lanterns presented by the higher
Daimios. It contains also a stone tank or
lavatory, wherein true behevers dip their
hands before devoting themselves to prayer,
and a small building in which the stage
properties and paraphernalia used on high
days and festivals are deposited. Passing
another gate, the shado"wy haU of the temple
is entered. Its waUs are decorated with
large panels, skilfuUy carved in intricate
masses of birds, flowers, and foHage from
single blocks of wood. Here are also a
number of lacquer boxes enclosed in sUken
girdles — "rehquaries," says om- useful Httle
guide book, " in which the posthumous titles
of the deceased are treasured ; " though who
the " deceased" are does not appear certain.
Hardly the Tycoons, I should fancy, the
boxes are too numerous. This haU is

YOKOHAMA AND TOKIO. 137
separated from the chancel by an fron rail
ing, but a dim vista in subdued Hght, dusky
shadows intermingling with the wan illumi
nations of smaU paper windows, leads the
¦view solemnly towards the distant shrine,
where the dull lustre of gold and gleam
of lacquer faintly flashing wherever a feeble
ray penetrates its recesses, stimulates the
imagination -with indefinite and mysterious
splendour. It is an architectural reverie,
an embodied dream. The temple sleeps
in a magic impenetrable silence, and yet
the silence seems to live and make mute
melody, which, though it be inaudible, stUl
wields harmonious influence,
" Heard melodies are sweet, but those unheard are
sweeter still."
More perfect resting-place for man's last
home was never wrought. The speU of the
mighty dead seems to haunt each moody
nook and hover overhead. Its influence
inspfres us. The mocking spfrit and the
ready scoff are checked awhUe, and some
thing Hke long unfamihar reverence steals
o-P'er us.

138 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
New Japan, in its feverish industry, wUl
create nothing to equal the slumberous
beauty of these old aisles and cloisters,
conceived and realized in the long idle days
of her past life. Years hence, when the won
race for gold has brought her power and
empty honours, she -wiU look back upon
them, puzzled and wondering how it was
that, alone and all unaided by the Western
arts and learning she reverences so much,
she yet had skiU to work out such a glorious
effort of imagination and design. She wUl
wonder over the temple of Shiba, even as
she wonders now over the Daibutz, when
the pow'er is equaUy lost that created it
and the arts no longer hers by which it was
embellished. Quitting the hall, we passed round to
a side door, and, under conduct of a priest,
were introduced barefooted into the interior
of the shrine. Afterwards, under the same
guidance, we "visited the bronze urns which
enclose the last earthly remains of the
Tycoons. In the evening we returned to Yokohama

YOKOHAMA AND TOKIO. 139'
and the yacht. Next morning we were
glad to find that the Pegasus, owing to
an unexpected order, had left Nagasaki
soon after ourselves, and, having arrived
in the night, was now anchored close to
the Witch. A renewal of our pleasant
acquaintance "with Commander the Hon.
H. Hood and his officers helped materiaUy
to Hghten the remainder of our stay in
harbour. Yokohama is by no means a Hvely
port. The European community is of
a purely business-Hke character. Here,
as at other treaty ports, there is a foreign
concession, or part of the town set aside
for foreigners. Many of them, however, live
out of to-wn, on the pleasanter and healthier
"Bluff," where several pretty villas are
situated. Some of the best of these are
occupied by missionaries — chiefly American
— ^who appear to have what their country
men call a " way- up " time of it.
Soon after our return to Tokio we received
a very kind letter from Mr. Kennedy, inviting
us aU to spend a few days -with him ; but the

140 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
weather was so bad that it was no pleasure to
go anywhere, and we were anxious to be off
to San Francisco and the sport in North
America. The day before we left he came
down and paid us a flying visit. Fortunately
on this day the weather cleared, and when
we turned out in the morning Fusiyama, a
giant snow-clad cone, was as clearly visible
as if, instead of being forty-five miles
distant, the genii of the story-books had
raised it with their arts in the night.
We had been here for days, little dream
ing what a beautiful picture lay hidden
from us behind the watery clouds. Now
Fusiyama, crowned with a crown of last
year's snow, reared her "pale imperial
brow" high up against the pure blue sky,
with the calm majestic grandeur of a
matchless mountain queen. Homage to
thee, Fusiyama ! Few amongst the snow-
crowned queens of the earth can compare
with thy lone, silent majesty. Through
out the voyage the world has shown us
nought to approach thee.
He would indeed be bold who ventured to

YOKOHAMA AND TOKIO. 141
predict the future of Japan. Transplanted
ci"viHzation, such as the Japanese are now
cultivating — ci"vUization which owes not its
origin to the natural impulses of the people
and the march of ideas, but solely to foreign
influence and example — ^is a dangerous ex
periment for any nation to make, and what
form it -wiU ultimately assume in Japan, to
what pitch it -wiU attain, or what changes it
wUl entaU upon the national character, can
as yet only be subjects of the vaguest specu
lation.

142 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.

CHAPTEE IX.
THE NOETH PACIFIC — YOKOHAMA TO SAN
FEANCISCO.
The anchor is weighed and we move slowly
off under steam ; passing the British,
French, and Eussian men-of-war, we ex
change salutes ; the yacht heads away fr-om
Japan, and another long sea voyage is before
us. It is just such a day as happUy befell
us amongst the islands in the Inland Sea,
and untU late in the afternoon, as we ghde
over the placid waters, we loiter about on
deck, smoking, chatting, and gazing at
beautiful Fuziyama — a soHtary cone of
driven white against the pale blue sky. At
a careless guess one would say it was only
a dozen mUes off, but reference to the

YOKOHAMA TO SAN FRANCISCO. 143
charts proves the distance to be at least five
or six times as great. So our haK-formed
acquaintance -with Japan is at an end, and
we "fare forth over the foam-flecked seas "
again, in search of other lands.
Once clear of the coast, our course lay
northwards untU the following afternoon;
then, reaching out to sea, the yacht fairly
started on her voyage to San Francisco. In
the next three days she ran 850 knots in a
hea-^ sea, beha-ving, as she always does, ad-
mfrably ; after that there was a dead calm for
ten hours, and thenceforward hea-vy, broken
weather and variable winds prevaUed untU
we entered port. Nevertheless the Witch
made good runs, frequently averaging ten
knots an hour close hauled, once for eighteen
hours at a stretch. With more favourable
"Vfinds she often exceeded fourteen knots,
and once fifteen knots an hour. Although
in such a sequence of foul weather as was
experienced, there would have been every
excuse for it, she very rarely had green
water on her decks, and only on two occa
sions shipped seas. One of these spHt the

144 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
heavy top rail of the bulwarks for several
feet; the other shattered the Hfeboat, which
was made fast on deck, and, sweeping aft,
broke loose the hen-coops, carried off sundry
trifles, and, shivering the ground-glass win
dow of the companion hatchway, poured a
deluge of water into the after cabins. It
was about three o'clock a.m. ; we had aU
turned in, and were just comfortably asleep,
when, with a tremendous crash and rattle,
down came the water and effectuaUy roused
us. Turning out, I found Tip and a tribe of
servants wading about. We got the hatch
way open, and presently the bo'sun arrived
to say that she had shipped a big sea by the
main rigging, which had swept her fore and
aft, and smashed the lifeboat; but "it was
aU right."
" Perhaps it was," I thought, as I
hung my feet over the side of my berth
and dried them "with a towel. "But it
was a deucedly unpleasant way of being
woke up, aU the same."
H  didn't turn out, so he was dry;
nor had he any sympathy for the cai-penter,

YOKOHAMA TO SAN FRANCISCO. 145
when he came to lodge a formal complaint
against the sea for cutting his lifeboat in
two. On the contrary, he was rather
pleased, I fancy, for he had set his mind
upon building a couple of whaleboats at
San Francisco, and he now had some excuse
for doing so.
There was Httle to mark our passage
across. We used to rise late and turn in late,
breakfast at about twelve, and dine at seven
or half-past. As a friend H  had met
in Yokohama traveUed "with us to San Fran
cisco, we were enabled to play whist, and the
evenings were usuaUy thus occupied, unless
the weather was too rough, in which case
we coUected in a corner of the saloon to
leeward, and yarned and recounted our ex
periences over a brew of punch cunningly
concocted by the scientific Tip. On one
of these occasions I was asked for an
account of Baker Pacha's fight at Tash-
Kessan. It was my good fortune to be
amongst the very few Englishmen who wit
nessed this engagement, and as, o"wing to
the rapid march of succeeding events, it did
VOL. II. L

146 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
not attract the notice it deserved, I may
perhaps be pardoned for introducing an
account of it on this occasion.
It was blo-wing a fine fresh gale outside ;
in the saloon the armchafrs, stools, etc., had
by degrees silted into one corner and become
wedged compactly together. Forced to
abandon whist, we had taken refuge in this
corner, and were discussing the Tufco-
Eussian war.
" TeU us about that fight of Baker's, when
he covered the retreat."
" Yes, fire away. Wait just a minute,
though, tUl I mix the grog," chimed in Tip.
It was a long-standing promise ; so when
the grog was mixed and pipes were loaded,
I commenced. " It was Christmas time in the . Bal
kans  ' '
" Good beginning," said Tip. " And two
traveUers were riding along the lonely road
that led to  "
" Shut up. Tip."
" Faith, I was only helping him."
" WeU, you see, Shakir Pacha's division

YOKOHAMA TO SAN FRANCISCO. 147
was holding the Kamarli heights, where
there had been a good deal of fighting.
After Ple-vna was taken, the Eussian attacks
almost ceased. They contented themselves
with shelling our Hues, and meanwhile
sought a fresh route through the hills, in
order to turn the position and surround us.
Shakfr Pacha, who, like the majority of
Turkish Generals, was an incapable idiot,
refused, untU too late, aU Baker Pacha's en
treaties to be allowed to make a reconnais
sance and learn what the enemy were about.
When, eventuaUy, he did accede to this
request, and a reconnaissance was made, the
Eussians were discovered on our right rear,
threatening our communications with
Sophia. They might still have been kept
in check for a time, had the pass they were
using been promptly seized and held. Shakir,
however, objected to adopt this course, and
simply remained inactive upon the heights,
with his forces melting away from exposure
and disease, whUst the Eussians were per
mitted to complete their turning movement
unchallenged. The result was that they

148 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
interposed thirty thousand men between
his division and Sophia, whence its sup
phes were derived, and one afternoon the
Cossacks appeared in Tash-Kessan, a vUlage
on the Sophia-KamarH road, about five
miles in rear of the latter place. Shakir
awoke then to a sense of the gravity of his
position. The same night he despatched
Baker, with four guns and four battalions,
to retake and hold the viUage.
" I lived at the time in a Httle Bulgarian
hamlet, named Strigh, situated just under
the heights. My next-door neighbour was
Burnaby — "Fred" Burnaby. I used to mess
with him every evening ; and charming little
dinners they were too, for he was a delight
ful host, and his servant (poor Eadford, who
died afterwards) was an exceUent cook.
WeU, on the evening in question, Eadford
came to announce dinner somewhat before
the accustomed hour, and I found Burnaby
already at the form which used to serve as
a mess table.
" ' I expect we shall have a fight to
night,' he said.

YOKOHAMA TO SAN FRANCISCO. 149
" ' On the heights, or at Tash-Kessan ? '
" ' At Tash-Kessan. The Cossacks occu
pied the village this afternoon, and Baker
is going to drive them out. You had
better come over ; we'll go together. — Did
you feed the horses this afternoon, Ead
ford ? '
" 'I told Hosman to, sir.' (Osman was
an orderly attached to Burnaby.)
" ' And how did you explain it to him ?
What Turkish words did you use ? '
" ' Oh, I jest told him, sir. He under
stood me, Hosman did.'
" ' Yes ; how did you teU him, though ? '
"But Eadford objected to be brought to
the point in this manner. It was his par
ticular weakness to think and lead others
to beheve that he spoke Turkish like a
native. At length, however, driven into a
corner, he was forced to acknowledge,
' WeU, sir, I jest hung the nose-bags on
him and pinted.'
" Soon after nine we started, Osman
leading the way. It was bitterly cold, and a
driving wind bore "with it clouds of frozen

150 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
snow. There had been a shght thaw during
the day, succeeded by a sharp frost ; conse
quently the sheep-tracks and road were like
glass. Half-way betwen Kamarli and Tash-
Kessan, we overtook the second battahon,
winding slowly and sUently across the line
of hUls that intervened between the two
places. In their long grey cloaks and
hoods the sandal-shod soldiers moved Hke
shadows in the mist. Further on, the guns
were with difficulty making the ascent.
Below us, to the left, was the gloom of a
deep ravine. Here and there ghttered a
bayonet in the uncertain moonHght. There
was a confusion of struggUng and faUing
horses and men straining at the guns.
Muttered exclamations of ' AUah il Allah '
were heard on all sides. Altogether it was
a strange scene.
" To make a long story short, when the
troops reached Tash-Kessan, they found
that the enemy had vanished. It was ac
cordingly reoccupied "vnthout fighting.
"The foUowing day. Baker Pacha took
up positions on a horseshoe of hiUs behind

YOKOHAMA TO SAN FRANCISCO. 151
the viUage, whence for three days we watched
the enemy's troops manoeuvring bet"wixt us
and Sophia. On the morning of the fourth
day they attacked,
" I had returned to Strigh overnight, to
prepare my effects for a rapid move, and
was aroused in the early morning by
heavy firing on the heights above. At the
same time the duU thunder of cannon, re
iterated with alarming frequency in the
opposite direction, warned me that an en
gagement had commenced at Tash-Kessan..
I decided for the latter place at once,=
concluding that the demonstration above
was only a feint ; the enemy's real object
being to carry Tash-Kessan and the positions
occupied by Baker, If this was effected
Shakir's whole army would be surrounded
and cut off from aU possibUity of retreat.
The two generals were thus placed back to
back, confronting in each case superior
forces. Baker Pacha's Httle di-vision, not
withstanding the reinforcements he had
received, consisted only of 2400 men, five
field-pieces, and two mountain guns, whUst

152 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
immediately opposed to him were forty-five
battahons of the Eussian Guards, eight
batteries of ArtUlery, and three thousand
cavafry, "With provisions for the day, a pot of
Liebig, and a couple of days' feed for my
horse, I started at once. On the road L
met the cook of the Eed Crescent Ambu
lance Society retreating in great tribulation.
" ' Monsieur, do not go zer,' he cried.
' Ze Eussians have take Tash-Kessan ; they
have take everyting ; they have capture my
stove,' " This was certainly a terrible calamity,
but there was no time to condole with him.
As I approached the scene of action,
wounded soldiers came tottering slowly
along by themselves. Here and there by
the roadside might be seen a huddled heap
in a grey cloak, motionless and stiU ; nor
were the ruddy stains that dyed the snow
in which it lay required to teU its sorrowful
tale. " There is something wonderfully impres
sive in drawing near a battle that is begin-

YOKOHAMA TO SAN FRANCISCO. 153
ning, but the scene of which is hidden stiU.
The moody, sullen boom of cannon becomes
momentarUy more fr-equent and distinct ;
the fitful rattle of musketry grows more
sustained ; there is a lull — throbbing silence
for a moment, broken by a fiercer gust, a
faint far bugle-caU, a wavering cheer — 'AUah
U AUah ! Allah U AHah ! ' Behfrid the hUls
the struggle rages. Which way does it go ?
Are we winning ? Is it victory or defeat,
glory or dishonom* ? Each minute seems
an hour as you hasten forward, for you
can see nothing, and thence the fascination
and excitement of those few bhnd moments,
which are by far the most exciting of the
day, I pushed on as rapidly as possible,
meeting at a short distance from Tash-
Kessan our handful of cavalry retiring out
of fire,
" ' Where was the.Ingihz Pacha ?'
" ' On the hUls behind the vUlage,'
"Turning to the right and passing three
of our guns, which were being briskly
worked, I ascended the position, where the
General was surrounded by Shakir Bey,

154 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
Colonel AUix, A.D.C., Captain Burnaby,
Captain Thackeray, and Drs. GiU and
Heath. "Fighting had, it appeared, commenced
at daybreak, when the outposts were driven
in. The enemy then pushed forward a
battery of field artiUery, and made some
remarkably good practice at the General
and his party as they ascended the hill.
Meanwhile infantrj'" advanced in columns
on both sides of the Sophia road, and also
from Tchokantia, a vUlage on our left
front. When I arrived the shell fire was
rapid, as the enemy had eight batteries
engaged. " Baker Pacha, as usual, was very busy
with his telescope. ' I think we shall
manage to hold out ; our position is strong,'
he said in his habitual suave undertone,
in answer to some remark of Burnaby's.
' Alhx, wiU you take the cavalry down on
to the plain again ? Spread the men out ;
give the movement as much importance as
possible. It will make our Hne look stronger
— fill up a gap as it were.'

YOKOHAMA TO SAN FRANCISCO. 155
"The idea of attacking Tash-Kessan
point-blank was speedily relinquished by
the Eussians, when they found how well
prepared the Turks were to receive them.
They still, however, continued to shell the
positions we occupied, and ha"ving by this
time acqufred the range to perfection, did
so with a degree of accuracy beyond all
praise. The troops that had been seen
advancing by the Sophia road turned off
and joined the Tchokantia columns, with
the evident intention of outflanking our
left "wing. For this the General was pre
pared. Two days previously, he had dis
posed a battahon in this dfrection, and
only the evening before, on the Eussians
occupying Tchokantia, had reinforced it
"with a second. The rifle-firing, hitherto
confined to skirmishers, now became more
general, as the Eussians pressed up the hill
to the left, and, slowly and in excellent
order, the Turks at the same time retfred,
for the advanced ground they then occupied
had only been taken up in order to check
and delay the enemy's attack; it had

156 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
never been Baker Pacha's intention to hold
it. Our men, therefore, fell back on posi
tions already chosen for them — positions,
moreover, of far greater strength, and so
situated as to contract the line of defence,
which in the first instance was too extended
for the troops at disposal.
"Fed by constant reinforcements, the
Eussian attack continued with apparent
success. Cheer after cheer from their
men swept over the mountains, and with
cheer after cheer the gallant Hne of red-
fezzed Osmanlis defiantly replied. Still,
they were heavily overmatched in numbers,
and the General now sent his "good bat
talion," the heroic Uskups, to the front.
With an angry yell, the brave fellows
doubled down the hillside and, crossing the
road, dashed up the slope before them.
In a few minutes they were deployed
along the ridge and hotly engaged with
the hated " Muscovs." Then, inch by inch,
before Turkish elan Eussian obstinacy had
to give back. In expectation of severe
fighting the General had for some time

YOKOHAMA TO SAN FRANCISCO. 157
past been nursing the Uskups, as well as
one or two other good battalions. The
former now numbered five hundred, but
of these only half were left to answer the
roll-call in the evening.
" There are no soldiers in the world to
compare "with Turks. They possess the dash
and enthusiasm of French troops, com
bined -with the traditional stubbornness of
British regiments. If led by good officers,
thefr morale is indestructible. To crown
aU, they are as hardy as mules. I allude, of
course, to fuU-aged and driUed troops ; raw
recruits are the same all the world over.
"In the face of such tremendous odds it
was not to be expected that our men would
push then- success very far, but, though
they soon ceased to advance, they stUl held
their ground "with the most astounding
tenacity. MeanwhUe the enemy strove to
create a diversion on our right. A column
of Eussian soldiers had outflanked our right
wing and were marching to attack us in
rear. The General immediately ordered
the fire of two fieldpieces and two mountain

158 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
guns, placed on our extreme right, to be
turned^ upon them. It had been a work of
much labour, involving the construction of
a road, to bring up these guns, but the
advantage of their position was now obvious ;
for such was the destruction caused by the
fire of grape they poured into the close
ranks of the enemy, that the attack was
utterly crushed. Throughout this period
the Eussian batteries continued to sheU us
without any intermission, and the infernal
shrieking and explosions of shells became
alike familiar and wearisome. Fighting pro
ceeded also with unabated vigour on the
left. The beha"viour of the Turkish troops
was magnificent. The thin line of " true
believers" stUl presented an unflinching and
impassable barrier to the swarms of grey-
coated Giaours before them. Fresh masses
of Eussian troops were now discovered ex
tending along the hills, bent upon turning
the left of the gallant handful whose ranks
they were unable to break. From his
sadly diminished reserves Baker at once
hurried another battalion to the rescue. At

YOKOHAMA TO SAN FRANCISCO. 159
the same time. Captain Thackeray led the
hard-worked httle body of cavafry down
into the "vUlage again, to attack a superior
force of Cossacks. This they pluckily and
successfriUy did.
" Most of the fighting, and indeed most
of the Turkish troops, were now concen
trated on the left. In order, therefore,
effectuaUy to follow what was taking place,
the General changed his position. From
our new standpoint we could see Shakir's
army evacuating the heights and retreat
ing across the plain below. Trains of
pack animals, arabas, and artiUery, half
buried in the snow, were labouring slowly
along, and battalion after battahon came
in sight, and passed away on the white
waste hke ships at sea, not one turning
aside to render Baker the assistance he
so sorely stood in need of. ' Maintain
your ground at aU costs ; fight to the
death,' was the only reply Shakfr Pacha
returned to his urgent requests for rein
forcements. Considering the vital import
ance it was that these positions should be

160 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
held, such utter disregard appeared Httle
short of insanity. Even the weather was
adverse. There was not the shghtest
chance of a fog until evening. From tha
ground now gained by the Eussian right,
they also had doubtless observed the retreat,
for they redoubled their efforts, and were
again reinforced.
" At this critical state of affairs Baker
Pacha received a message from the engaged
troops, which must have severely tried his
nerves, strong as they may be. ' The men
say that they can hold the positions for
ever, but they are running short of car
tridges.' Through the imbecihty of a
Turkish officer, the extra cases of ammuni
tion had miscarried. Anticipating a great
expenditure, the General had fortunately
already sent to Kamarh for fresh supphes.
These, however, he had not expected to
require untU later in the day, and, though
on the road, they were stUl some distance
from us. Far off on the plain, we could
descry the dotted mule-train slowly ad
vancing. An orderly was despatched in

YOKOHAMA TO SAN FRANCISCO. 161
hot haste to hurry them up, and the result
of the day seemed Hkely to depend upon
a mule-race against time. The fate of
Shakn-'s army was in the balance, no less
than that of the troops immediately en
gaged. We watched the progress of the
fight, and calculated that of the mules.
Time was the ' favourite.'
"An event occurred at this juncture which
threatened the most dangerous conse
quences. The artUlery officer who had
charge of the three guns placed earher in
the day near the road on our left, but
latterly assigned a different station, thought
fit to retfre -without orders. It was of the
utmost importance that the guns should hold
their ground, as they covered and seriously
checked the Eussian advance. Baker
Pacha, seeing what was taking place, gal-
lopped off immediately, and himself brought
the guns back to thefr original position;
then, as the artUlery officer was at that
moment shot dead, he remained with them
for over an hour, exposed to a heavy and
VOL, II. M

162 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
continuous fusillade, in order to give the
men the moral support of his presence.
"For awhile, in the interest of this move
ment, we forgot the ammunition question.
The foremost mules had, however, by this
time arrived, and but a few minutes more
elapsed before, with renewed vigour, firing
increased along our whole hne.
"Astonished at the undaunted defence of
the Turks, and maddened to see their enemy
escaping them when almost within grasp,
the Eussians moved up fresh supports, and
gathered themselves together for a final
effort. Eeluctantly the General sent another
battalion to the front, and we watched the
result with anxiety.
" With the exception of one battahon of
raw recruits, our whole force was now
engaged. Once more, -with thriUing effect,
the mountains re-echoed to the spirit-
stfrrhig ' Allah U AUah ! AUah U Allah ! '
Once more, reanimated by fresh assistance
and thefr own undying enthusiasm, the
Turks charged -with courageous fury, and a
chorus of uncontrollable admiration burst

YOKOHAMA TO' SAN FRANCISCO. 163

from us as the red fezzes swept down in a
long hne upon the foe, and forced them, at
the point of the bayonet, to retreat som,e
distance down the long-contested slope.
" ' We win,' said Baker, quietly. His
face had never betrayed a trace of emotion
aU day, but now he smUed a Httle con
tentedly. " The fate of the day was decided at
length, and victory lay with the Turks,
after one of the most glorious exhibitions of
brUHant valour and dogged determination
that military history can boast.
"Afternoon was wearing fast away; in
several dfrections the first faint indications
of mist rising from the valleys heralded the
night's fog. Never was such intervention
more gratefuUy welcomed, never more
thoroughly merited. The men had been
fighting from sunrise to sunset. Night
comes on apace in the Balkans, and dark
ness speedily set in. By degrees the flash
of rifles grew less frequent, though more
"vivid in the dusky twilight ; their hitherto
sustained rattle became broken and fitful,

164 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
the intervals waxing longer and more
marked ; tUl at length thefr fretful bicker
ings were hushed, and there was sUence
once more upon the mountains. Night
had imposed an armistice, and cast her
sable veil over the dead and dying that
lay there freezing in the snow and bitter
cold. At roll-call that night it was found
that, out of 2400 men, 800 were kUled and
wounded. The same night Baker retreated
"with his guns to Isladi, where the troops
bivouacked in the snow, and the foUowing
morning he rejoined Shakfr Pacha at Petrich.
" To have "witnessed the battle of Tash-
Kessan is one of the proudest recollections
of my Hfe, and one that I never recall
"without some glow of the old enthusiasm
that animated us on that day recurring to
me. As instances of generalship, this en
gagement, and the manner in which Baker
subsequently covered the retreat to the sea,
stand out alone in the war ; there is nothing
to compare "with them. In losing Baker we
have lost a great General — one possessed
of endless resource, unflinching determina-

YOKOHAMA. TO SAN FRANCISCO. 165
tion, unconquerable energy, a peculiar in
sight into the feehng of the men he com
mands, and wonderful tact in managing
them. Whether we still possess men of
equal abUity it is impossible to say, but
certainly we have no General who has as
yet given signs of the same order of genius
that he undeniably possesses, for we have
no one who has been as highly tested."
" By the holy, but you're right. He
must be a mighty fine feUow!" says Tip.
" And what did you do when the fight was
over ? "
"WeU, I had a deuced long and- un
pleasant ride. I got back to my quarters,
and, changing my horse, started at once
on the Hne of retreat to take the news
do"wn. We marched aU night through the
mountains, and several times had to halt
whUst men went forward to probe the snow
and feel for the road. All along the route
the wounded were dropping and dying, and
every now and then my horse would shy
right across the track at one of them, and
flounder into a snow-drift. I remember he

166 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
gave me two or three- glorious croppers
in the course of the night. The worst of
it was, I had got adrift from any one I
knew, and was afraid of being seized as
a Eussian spy — a very unpleasant expe
rience, which had pre"viously happened to
me t-wice. To explain that I was a corre
spondent would have been useless and
almost impossible ; so to the numerous
chaUenges I received I savagely rephed,
' IngUiz hakim ' (Enghsh doctor). At length,
I feU in with a detachment of cavafry, and
an officer shouted the unwelcome ' Kim
var?' " ' IngUiz hakim,'
"'Neraye gideorsiniz ? ' (Where are you
gofrig ?)
" ' Bazardjic-eh ' (To Bazardjick).
" ' Guel bouraya ' (Come here),
"Needless to say, I came, and then in
the darkness I recognized the figure of a
Hungarian officer in Baker's cavafry. I
spoke to him in German, and he knew me
instantly, so for the rest of the night I
remained -with him. About six a.m. we

YOKOHAMA TO SAN FRANCISCO. 167
reached Petrich. At half-past nine I
started again, and rode aU day and all
night to Bazardjick, which I reached be
tween seven and eight next morning. I
only halted about two hours and a half
on the way, but the ground was so slippery
that it was impossible to venture out of a
walk. At Bazardjick I saw Fuad Pacha,
the commandant, who was in utter dark
ness with regard to Shakir's movements,
and thought the whole force had been sur
rounded and taken prisoners some days
before. He, of course, was delighted to
hear from me of thefr escape, and telegraphed
the news at once to Constantinople. The
same day I drove on to PhUippopolis and
sent my own letters off,"

168 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.

CHAPTEE X,
SAN FEANCISCO.
DuEiNO the last twelve hours before entering
the Golden Gates, we averaged thirteen
knots an hour under saU; the Witch be
having admirably, as she always does in
heavy weather. Indeed, the harder it
blows the better she likes it, San Fran
cisco has so frequently been described by
abler pens than mine, that a detaUed
account of my impressions and of our stay
there would be hardly worth recording,
StUl I cannot pass over entirely in silence
the place where we spent by far the plea
santest part of an uniformly pleasant voyage.
About mid-day the reporter of a local
paper boarded us, and, having obtained
a few details with regard to the yacht's

SAN FRANCISCO. 169
performances, very kindly offered to pilot
us through the principal parts of the town.
H  remained on board ; S  , F  h,
and I went on shore. During the walk
a heavy norther sprang up — the heaviest
experienced here for many years — and when
we returned to the wharf, some difficulty
arose about getting off. The shore boats
were small and only one of us could go
at a time. S  and F  h, therefore,
spent the night at the Palace Hotel, whUst
I went off, and at the third trial, drenched
thoroughly from head to foot, succeeded
in reaching the yacht, which had dragged
her anchors and was fast drifting on to
the wharfs. They were getting up steam
on board. A quarter of an hour later we
weighed anchor, and moved across the
bay to more secure anchorage. In the
saloon I found H  undergoing a rigid
cross-examination from another reporter.
He looked very much like a schoolboy
who didn't know his lesson and expected
to be turned back.
" Yes, and where did you go after that ?"

170 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
" WeU, after that— oh, Havana. No, not
Havana; that was another voyage. Let
me see. Where did we go, F  ? where
did we go after — where was it you said ?
Siam ?— after Siam ? "
" Say," said the reporter, arresting his
pencil a moment, "is it very rough out
side ? "
" Not a bad imitation of it."
" Oh, I do feel so almighty sick ! You
didn't see my boat alongside ? "
" No. I'm afr-aid you wUl have to stay
here tUl to-morrow. The "wind is rising
rapidly." He rushed on deck to interview the
pUot, who had just come on board, but
returned in a few minutes, looking sadder
than ever.
" Say, any other newspaper man been on
board to-day ? "
" A reporter came off at mid-day."
"For the  ?"
"Yes." " Ah ! I know him. He's paid my boat
man not to fetch me. I shall miss the

SAN FRANCISCO. 171
evening paper, and he'll beat me again. I
shall have to paste that chap on the snout."
" I'U put you on shore if I can," said
H  , touching a bell. " Satan, send the
captain to me."
In a few minutes he arrived.
"Edlefsen, I want you to put this gentle
man on shore if you can."
The old fellow looked grave. " Sir
T  , I can't do it. The pilot came off at
some risk. If a boat went ashore it couldn't
get back to-night, and we're short-handed
afready. Of course, sir, if you say it must
be done  "
H  turned to the reporter.
"Oh, it's all right; guess I must stay.
Say, captain, you'll put me ashore early in
the morning ? "
" Certainly, sir."
Shortly after this the reporter retfred to
a cabin, as he said with a sickly smUe,
to think of home, for he felt " emotional."
About eleven o'clock he reappeared again
in a less studious frame of mind, and for
the rest of the evening proved a very bright

172 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
and amusing companion, full of anecdotes
and quaint witticisms. I must say he gave
us credit for boundless creduHty, and
when he began to discuss mining specu
lations and miners' fortunes, he indulged
in numbers and rows of figures such as
ordinary beings are only accustomed to
see used in connection with astronomical
calculations. The yacht was able on the following day
to return to her old anchorage, where H 
received visits from several gentlemen to
whom he had brought letters of introduc
tion. On the same day the Union Club
extended to our whole party the privilege
of honorary membership. We subsequently
experienced simUar courtesy from the
Bohemian, German, and Olympic Clubs.
Indeed, from the moment we landed until
the day we left, we met "with nothing but
the most genial kindness and boundless
hospitality on all hands.
An American, untU you know him and
he knows you, will appear touchy, self-
assertive, and extremely sensitive. He is

SAN FRANCISCO. 173
cautious in making advances, and if he
offers you one hand is ready to counter
you with the other, in case you should
not meet his civUity in the spirit in which
it is offered. This is hardly his fault.
Enghsh residents in Cahfornia have told
me that they have frequently witnessed
behaviour on the part of Enghsh "visitors
that made them ashamed of thefr nation
ality and admitted of no excuse. Men
who have previously traveUed but Httle
or not at aU, come out there fresh from
London, fiUed with that ineffable coiffidence
in thefr 0"wn immeasurable superiority to
any other being on the face of the earth
that most Englishmen start -with, and
indulge in afrs and graces — " show off," in
fact, in a manner — ^that would excite the
derision and pity of their friends at home.
It is more than probable that the super-
cihous contempt they exhibit for anything
which differs shghtly from what they have
been accustomed to, is simply affected,
but it is none the less insolent and dis
agreeable. Once break through the uneasi-

174 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
ness which is apparent during the first
few hours of your acquaintance "with an
American, meet him frankly half-way, and
a better feUow does not exist.
During our stay in San Francisco we
put up at the Palace Hotel — the largest,
I beheve, in the world. Accommodation
can be pro"vided in it for fifteen hundred
people, and twelve hundred have already
been lodged at one time there. It is
furnished with five "lifts" or "elevators,"
one of which makes from seventeen to
eighteen hundred trips in the twenty-four
hours. These Hfts neutralize the pre
ference that would otherwise be shown
for the lower floors, and the sixth floor,
or highest of all, is the most sought after
and frequented, o"vring to the fact of its
being Hghter, more afry, and just as easy
to reach as the first. Besides the lifts there
are the ordinary stafrcases. Each floor pos
sesses its own fire hoses and escape ladders,
and has access to escape staircases of fron.
On the first floor there is a suite of three
large and handsomely furnished " parlours"

SAN FRANCISCO. 1 75
or reception-rooms for general use. In
the laundry forty-five Chinamen, as well
as sundry white women, are employed.
The washing, pressing, wi'inging, mangling,
ironing, etc., are all performed by machinery;
there is even a machine for converting
soap into lather. The drying room, too,
is ingenious. Then the butchery, bakery,
kitchens, etc, with their various mecha
nical appUances for economizing labour, are
worth glancing through. From fifteen
to twenty cooks are, under ordinary circum
stances, employed. Water is obtained from
three artesian weUs. Formerly the hotel
made its own gas, but since the introduc
tion of the electric Hght has diminished
the consumption of gas by one-half, it is
procured fr-om the pubhc works. From the
shops on the ground floor nearly every
thing can be obtained, and the hotel is
thus almost independent of extraneous
assistance. Its worst feature is the at
tendance, which is bad. With this excep
tion it is weU managed,' and we liked it
exceedingly.

176 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
The drive to the Cliff House through the
park is pleasant. The park, which has
been reclaimed at a great expense from
sandhUls, is weU kept and laid .out with
exceUent roads. Here you may see scores
of neat carriages and fine trotters. One
fault alone can be found with the equipages,
but to an Enghsh eye it is sufficiently grave.
The horses may be the best-matched and
handsomest pair that money can procure,
the carriage a model of coachbuUder's art,
the ladies within it faultlessly attfred, but
on the box a ruffian in a slouch hat and
any sort of costume handles the ribbons,
and spoils the whole turn-out. His driving
may be artistic, but his appearance is often
very unprepossessing. Liveries are opposed
to American notions, and so far that is
perfectly comprehensible, but surely it
would be possible for a coachman to dress
himself neatly and quietly without adopting
a livery. The park is a favourite resort of the
San Franciscans ; on a fine afternoon it is
thronged with carriages. San Francisco is

SAN FRANCISCO. 177
noted for the beauty of its women; more
over, they display what has long been
recognized in Europe as characteristic of
American women, namely, great taste in
dressing. The first time "Tip" and I
came home from dri-ving in the park, it
was "vrith a very fafr- imitation of stiff necks
from constantly looking round ; but had the
penalty been that which befel Lot's wife, we
had been so long away from civihzation that
I am afraid we should have recklessly risked
being converted into chloride of sodium.
The days of the sea-hons at the Chff
House are numbered. Lately the fisher
men complained that they destroyed the
fishing, and the law for their preservation
was repealed by the Californian Congress.
Some Americanisms strike the new arrival
as very funny. A tobacconist one day re
commended me what he caUed " a nice little
domestic cigar " — why I can't imagine, fori
am wont to believe that as yet there is
nothing very parental in my appearance.
A man may be " a way-up man — high up —
very up indeed," if he is of any note. A
VOL. II. N

178 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
girl may be " buUt up from the word go," or
it may be said " she don't pretty much."
You may "want to "win so badly that you
can taste it," or you can " see it sticking
out a foot that you are going to lose." If
you are apt to give yourself afrs, it may
be you will hear some one remark that " you
are hanging out rather more than you can
dry;" if you do, you -wiU know what it
means, and you can " divide the statement
amongst the company present, and take
your share in beheving it or not," as you
think fit. Our slang is as new to them as
thefrs is to us, and more than once we
were caUed upon to construe " duffer " and
simUar expressions. In reahty, though,
one is surprised to find how fr-ee the Cah-
fornians are from accent and Americanisms.
It is rare in San Francisco to hear any
one speaking with a pronounced inflection ;
it is fr-equently either absent entfr'ely, or
scarcely perceptible. There are less of
those minute national differences in appear
ance, dress, etc., between the inhabitants
of England and San Francisco, than between

SAN FRANCISCO. 179

England and Scotland, and infinitely less
difference in accent. The Cahfornians are
thorough Englishmen, and Englishmen of a
fine type too — good natured, hospitable, and
kindly to a degree rarely met with else
where. I aUude in these notes more ex
clusively to Cahfornians, as my acquaint
ance "with America is limited to the one
State. San Francisco is at present in a transi
tion state. Her unparaUeled outburst of
prosperity arose, of course, from successful
mining speculations. But for some time
past mines have been going down, down,
do"wn ; the old leads are graduaUy being
worked out, and no new ones of importance
have been struck to replace them. Mining
prosperity is, and must always be, of a
more or less ephemeral and fluctuating
character. It is to be questioned whether
a state once fairly started in its career,
and possessed of other natural advantages,
derives any actual benefit from the pos
session of mines. On the contrary, inas
much as this attribute diverts men from

180 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
agriculture and commerce, on which, if it
would be weU founded and stable, the
wealth of a country must ever depend,
and, moreover, infuses into all classes an
aversion to steady industry, a spirit of
reckless extravagance, and a propensity
for gambhng, it is doubtful whether mining
wealth does not actually retard the pro
gress of a state. San Francisco sprang
up like a mushroom, and that which
was achieved by the royal road of mining
wealth has now to be substantiated by
trade. At present she has outgrown her
strength, for the increase of her commercial
interests has naturally not been sufficiently
rapid to maintain her in her former con
dition of prosperity independently of mining-
aid. She has ceased for the moment to
advance. Her population, if not absolutely
decreasing, is at any rate stationary. Lately
she has had also the uneasiness caused by
agitators amongst the working classes to
contend against. These are aU matters
which in process of time will right them
selves, and San Francisco, "with its wonderful

SAN FRANCISCO. 181
position, backed by the marvellous fertility
of California, has before it a future of great,
if not unexampled, prosperity. There is
every reason to suppose, moreover, that
the ore procm-ed from the Californian
mines is but as a drop in the ocean by com
parison "with what remains. Beside the
unexplored tracts of land those already
prospected sink into insignificance. Old
miners teU you that the country is all gold.
With special legislation, and a strong
government to regulate mining operations,
these sources of wealth might be turned
to unqualified advantage ; otherwise, though
a few individuals wiU benefit, the state in
the long run may find such gains are like
the unreal fairy gold of story-books which
crumbles at the touch. The present de
pression in mining affafrs is, at any rate,
of no real disadvantage, as it leads to the
development of other resources and is a
pause that gives the more legitimate branches
of industry time to increase their strength
and influence, so that in the event of future
gold rushes they may be the better able to

182 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
stand the strain and maintain the balance
of things.
A great point of difference between the
Enghsh and Americans as nations lies in
the fact that with us the public welfare
is nobody's business, with them it is every
body's business. They take matters of
public moment in a serious manner, and
not, as we too often do, apatheticaUy. An
instance of their "vigorous civism and public
spirit was noticeable in the rapidity -with
which some recent threats of incendiarism
from the low Irish loafers caUed into being
a vigUance committee, numbering some ten
thousand strong, thoroughly organized, and
composed of the most respectable inhabitants
in the town. Fortunately it was never re
quired to take action, but it was none the less
ready to be called out at any moment when
circumstances should render such a course
needful. This is but a forcible exhibition
of the feeling one sees displayed on all sides
in everyday life. They do not procrastinate
in such matters ; they settle them at once.
Lesseps arrived during our stay in San

SAN FRANCISCO. 183
Francisco, on business connected with the
proposed canal through the Isthmus of
Panama. He was weU received and hos
pitably entertained, but his scheme was
regarded "svith a feeling akin to jealousy, as
likely, if successful, to deprive San Francisco
of part of the China trade, and conse
quently it received but little or no support.
He told the San Franciscans that he did
not want money from them ; in fact, that
he already had sufficient subscribed or
promised to carry out his enterprise. But
"with a significant droop of the dexter eye
lid, the San Franciscan sayeth blandly,
" We've sold too many mines not to under
stand that talk." They assert that the
scheme is impracticable for many reasons ;
bearing in mind, however, the Pacific rail
road and the Suez Canal, the project loses in
contemplation its aUeged "wUdness. One
of the chief difficulties to contend against
will be the malaria which is said to arise as
soon as the earth there is disturbed. One
American put the matter to me very
tersely, but in true American style.

184 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.

"Look here!" he said. "The world
isn't going foohng all around the Horn,
when it can cut across the Isthmus for
a few hundred mUHon dollars. It stands
to reason ; look at the map."
It is only by carefriUy bearing in mind
that thfrty years ago San Francisco was
not, and its present site was simply a
sand-heap, that one thoroughly appreciates
the extraordinary energy and enterprise
to which it bears witness. Fine streets,
fine shops, immense hotels, handsome pubhc
buUdings, theatres, tramways, cable roads,
steam ferries, suburbs, etc., are aU there.
It possesses every modern appliance for
comfort, expedition, and convenience. Some
of the streets are almost roofed -with
a treUis-work of telephone and telegraph
"wires. The telephone is to be found in
every office, and not only is it universally
used in business, but its advantages have
been recognized and utihzed in private life.
Scores of people living a Httle distance
out of the city have a telephone wire that
connects their house with a central office.

SAN FRANCISCO. 185

A lady has simply to state to the clerk
at the office that she wishes to speak to
some one at, say, the Union or Pacific Club.
The "wfres are immediately connected, and
she can caU her husband from his lunch
to receive the rest of that curtain lecture
he fied from in the morning, or teU him
to bring Mr. So-and-so home to dinner. She
can order anything to be sent up to the
house, from a fire engine to a packet of
pins, and can take staUs at the theatre
or call a cab. Ladies to whom I have
mentioned this since my return to England
have, without exception, highly approved
of it ; but the married men fail to see its
merits, and with equal unanimity have con
demned it. " Oh, that wouldn't do at aU ;
my wife would be always shopping. She
would sit at home and shop aU day," said
one, whUst another famUy man remarked
that " he would take his name off any club
that started a telephone wfre."
The dearness of labour has probably
influenced the Americans in so rapidly and
extensively adopting inventions of this

186 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
natm-e. Everything in America seems to
work itself There is not the same pro
longed confusion, bustle, and din when
anything has to be done that is to be
noticed in England. No dozens of myr
midons rush to and fro, obstructing more
than they assist; no clanging beUs or hoarse
shoutings deafen you. You hear the
familiar "tic" of an electric beU, machinery
is quietly set in motion, and the thing,
whatever it may be, is done. An automa
tons system of ser-vice seems to prevail
in everything.
H  and I were invited one Sunday
morning, whUst at San Francisco, to a little
breakfast party at the trotting track, and were
driven out there by a well-known sporting
gentleman — I had almost said sportsman, but
in America I believe the meaning of the word
has been perverted to "blackleg." The
track measures, if I remember rightly,
exactly a mile, and possesses a grand
stand, stables, and an hotel. On Sunday
mornings it is a great rendezvous for the
owners of trotters, or those interested in

SAN FRANCISCO. 187

them, and during the forenoon the track
is usually occupied by weU-known horses.
The morning we were there St. JuHen, the
fastest horse in the United States, whose
record for a mile is 2 min. 12f sec, had
three spins. He was then getting into
condition preparatory to going east on a
starring tour of exhibition trotting. We
subsequently visited the flyer in his box,
where a groom watches him day and night.
The sulky he is driven in does not weigh
fifty pounds. His owner, Mr. Moreau, is
said to have refused ten thousand dollars
for him lately.
Whilst in San Francisco I sometimes heard
the probabUity of the United States continu
ing to hold together discussed, not simply
by Californians, but by men from all parts of
America. The question was debated with
out the least display of feeling — indeed,
without reference to feehng at aU — but
simply and purely from a commercial point
of -view; and it was generaUy argued that
as trade increased, and the various branches
of industry that obtain in different parts

188 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
of the States grew and extended, interests
would clash to such a degree that it would
be found impossible for one government
to secure the advantage of all parties, and
a separation would ensue. The difficulty of
ruling, collectively, a people subject to such
diverse climates and conditions of country
has never been permanently overcome, ex
cept by the Chinese ; and as the American
nation grows older, as the population
increases, becomes more settled, and con
sequently less perceptibly influenced by
the disturbing element of foreign emigration,
the local character of the people "wUl gradu
ally assume more distinctive traits. Modi
fications in temperament and character will
naturally result in course of time from
difference in pursuits, climate, and country,
and the development of opposed ideas with
regard to government wiU as naturally be
the consequence. One is surprised here
to hear the frequently expressed desire for
a stronger— in other words, a more absolute
—government, and the equally general con
demnation of universal suffrage. This

SAN FRANCISCO. 189

may be transient irritation occasioned by
the uneasiness and trouble lately caused by
the agitation amongst the working classes
and loafers ; stiU it sounds strange on
American lips.
Scarcely less remarkable to a stranger
is the constantly recurring expression,
" good family," in conversation. To trace
descent from an old " Knickerbocker
famUy " seems to be considered in much
the same Hght as to have " come in with
the Conqueror " is in England. Americans
are apt to ridicule Enghsh pretensions on
this score, yet whUe in America I certainly
heard "famUy" more frequently and seri
ously discussed than I ever did during the
same space of time in England. Pride of
famUy, Hke esprit de corps, has of course its
ob"vious merits, but if it is to increase here,
America only requfres time to become as
aristocratic as any country in Europe. I
cannot say that I noticed that undue im
patience of criticism and propensity for
national boasting often attributed to Ame
ricans. Of late years America's power and

190 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
qualities have been more generously recog
nized in Europe. She is allowed the
position she deserves; her claims are
acknowledged; the feehng of irritation that
made Americans intolerant of criticism is
consequently dying out, and the fancied
necessity for boasting no longer exists.
At San Francisco the yacht was docked, as
she had lost several sheets of copper and
wanted a little overhauling. Here H 
also had two fine whaleboats built, in place
of the cutter, which had been smashed on
the passage from Yokohama, and the gig,
which he got rid of. Both boats had been
too light for rough work and weather. Poor
Edouard, the French chef, leaves the yacht
here. He has long been aihng, and the
doctors have at length decided that he
has only one lung left. So he returns to
France and a mild climate. He is one of
those extremely rarce aves, a servant with
out fault and a pearl of a cook.

( 191 )

CHAPTEE XI.
en EOTJTE foe ALASKA.
Numerous postponements for dances, dinner
parties, etc., had extended our stay in San
Francisco from a fortnight (as originally in
tended) to within a day or so of six weeks.
H  at length, fearing to be late in
Alaska, hardened his heart, refused to en
tertain any more of the ingenious reasons
for stUl prolonging the visit that our cordial
and hospitable friends advanced on aU sides,
and fixed upon the 15th of April for our
departure. For the ensuing few days
life on board seemed fearfuUy dull and
monotonous, an experience entirely new
to us. Hitherto we had invariably re
turned with pleasure to the yacht's routine,
but on this occasion we had been so kindly

192 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
received (mainly by members of the Union
Club, with whom we were in constant inter
course), and our visit had been altogether
so delightful and full of gaiety, that some
time elapsed before we settled down again.
With tolerable weather Juan de Fuca
Straits were entered on the morning- of the
20th. The coast scenery on the way up
was in places very fine, and consisted chiefiy
of rugged snow-capped ranges, the lower
spurs of which were clothed with pine trees.
Near the entrance to the straits we passed
several schools of whales and fur seals.
Contrary -winds obliged us to anchor shortly
afterwards for the night in CaUum Bay,
an amphitheatre of rocks and sombre pine
trees. In the afternoon we went ashore to
stretch our legs and visit a settlement of
Flat-Heads near the beach. Dirty, saUow-
complexioned, stolid, ugly, square-faced,
low-browed, low-built loafers, neither savage
nor civilized men, they dwelt in pine-board
barns, the foul interiors of which were
in perfect keeping with the exteriors of

EN ROUTE FOR ALASKA. 193
thefr o-wners. A crowd of hungry looking
dogs snarled enviously round our heels, and
an old she Methuselah cutting wood on a
hUlside near, shouted what might certainly
have been a prolonged welcome, but it
sounded to my untutored British ear far
more hke a tfrade of strongly emphasized
abuse. StroUing through the forest, we
passed two or three extremely picturesque
and sketchy httle acre and half-acre Indian
clearings. A short walk brought us to the
stream — a lovely looking piece of water for
trout, although no fish were "visible. I had
a favourite httle twelve-bore Grant with me,
H  also was armed, and as " Joe " was
" on the hunt," we bagged three brace
of ducks by foUo"wing the stream down to
the sea.
Just as we were stepping into the
gig to return to the yacht, Joe was reported
missing. He had been noticed a short way
back, and the men went to look for him.
" Joe ! Joe ! Joe ! good dog Joe ! " We all
turned out to search, and " Joe ! Joe ! Joe ! "
in various tones, both high and low,
VOL. II. 0

194 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERIN'GS.

seductive and chiding, went up the river
and down the river, and through the forest
and along the beach, backwards and
forwards ; but no glad yelp answered us,
for the famihar bark was never to be
heard again.
" Please, Sfr T  , I've found Joe.
He's drownded in the river," said the
bo'sun at length, "with a tear in his eye.
Poor -wiUul Joe, the pet of the whole
ship's company, and one of the best water-
dogs that ever was bred, drowned ! We
coiUd hardly believe it. But when we went
to look at him, where he floated head
do-wnwards in a little eddy, and saw that
his tail did not cock, the melancholy truth
was forced upon us ; for, had he possessed '
a crest and motto, it would have been a
stump tail cocked, and the one word
"Excelsior." Alas, poor Joe! poor old,
pig-headed, obstinate Don Jose ! He was
dead ! After seeing dogs, cats, monkeys,
and other live stock go before him, his
own turn had come at last. He had passed
in his cheques ; from his earthly tenement

EN ROUTE FOR ALASKA. 195
Death, the great lando-wner, had evicted
hiin, and, poor old tenant, he had gone all
alone. We Hfted him out and carried him
do-vm to the shore. There, with our hands,
we scooped a shaUow grave for him in
the sand, and lined it with sea-flowers
and fair weeds. Then, having cut curly
locks off him for some of the ladies of San
Francisco with whom he was a favourite,
we arranged his Hmbs decently, closed his
eyes, and covered him up. Above the grave
a driftwood monument was set, and round
about it sheUs were placed, to mark his
resting-place. The ceremony was con
cluded by a salute of four guns.
" Oh, weep for a Don Jose ! he is dead !
Wake, melancholy mother, wake and weep !
Yet wherefore ? Quench within their burning bed
Thy fiery tears, and let thy loud heart keep,
Like his, a mute and uncomplaining sleep,
Tor he is gone where all things wise and fair
Descend. Oh, dream not that the amorous deep
"Will yet restore him to the vital air.
Death feeds pn his mute bark and laughs at our despair."
"I didna think puir Joe wad hae been

196 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
caUed awa' frae us Hke this," remarked
one of the men, a solemn Scot.
" Joe ! Joe warn't never called, or he'd
have been here now," said the bo'sun scorn-
fuUy. " He was a  good dog, Joe was,
but he was proper contrary."
WeU, there was nothing else to be done ;
so there we left him, under the long-
thrown funereal shadows of nodding pine-
tree plumes, whUst the wind in the branches
near him, the ripple of waves on the long,
lone strand, and the wUd cry of the sea-bfrd
saUing by chanted his requiem sadly, and
wafted his spirit to the sunset land beyond
seas. Long e'er this Joe wUl be wagging his
angel stump tail and barking around Peter's
gate. If Peter wants any peace he had
better let him in at once. The only way
we could account for his untimely end
was by the supposition that he had been
seized -with a fit. As he had had one at
Kobe, and latterly had been aUing, this
seemed not improbable.
About twelve o'clock next day the yacht
wound her way through the narrow intricate

EN ROUTE FOR ALASKA. 197
entrance to Victoria, and dropped anchor
in the tiny bay. The aspect of Victoria
is remarkably pretty. It contains about
seven thousand inhabitants. Formerly the
population was much larger, but Victoria
(only in an aggravated form) has expe
rienced, Hke San Francisco, the instabihty
of mining prosperity.
Leaving Victoria next morning, the
yacht's course lay through the Haro
Archipelago. The scenery in this inland
sea is grand. Fortunately the weather, now
and for some days afterwards, could hardly
have been finer, and as on we went through
the sunny hours beneath soft pearly skies,
each -view, sho"wing "with photographic
clearness in the pure air, seemed more
charming than the last. Now our course
lay through narrow rushing channels where
the water boiled and eddied over deep-
sunken rocks, and now across glassy lochs
whose wind-deserted surfaces were stirred
only by the splash and dripping of rising
ducks, and whose pleasing shores were
nook-shotten with tiny bays, wherein

198 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.

might here and there be seen a small
cutter at anchor, or a few canoes drawn
up on the beach near the soHtary pine-
shaded log cabin of a recluse hunter.
In the foreground were rocky stones,
which had been rugged and -wild but for
the indescribable richness of the heavy
mosses that clung around them and, blend
ing their own endless varieties of colour
"with wondrous softness, knit rock to rock
"with tones that soothed away aU trace of
harshness. Further removed were pine-
clad hills, from deepest green, waxing
purple, and in the far-off distance dim pale
blue. Behind them rose range upon range
of inland snowy mountains and ghttering
peaks ice-helmed —
" Hills peep o'er hills and Alps on Alps arise ; ''
whUst resting on these, towered battle
ments of piled clouds wrought in fantastic
imagery. But the most striking trait in
this impressive northern scenery is not so
much the colour of it, though that is truly
grand, nor the far-reaching landscapes that

EN ROUTE FOR ALASKA. 199
a fine morning offers ; it is its stUlness, the
perfect quiet, the absence of that " poetry
of earth" that's "never dead" in lower
latitudes. There is but one voice here, the
voice of the wind; when that is hushed,
nature preserves a reverential sUence. No
ceaseless drone of insect life, no song of
bfrds, no harsh clang of mankind working,
breaks through the silence, and one seems
to "view everything as it were through the
medium of a glass door or window.
We steamed into Nonaimo about four
o'clock. Nonaimo derives its importance
from coal mines. It contains about a
thousand inhabitants, a few hundred Indians,
and a few Chinamen. In the afternoon Mr.
Prior, the Government agent, came on board
to visit us, and when he returned on shore
we accompanied him to caU on Captain
Spalding, the Government magistrate, from
whom we hoped to glean information with
regard to the fishing in the neighbourhood.
For the next two days the yacht would be
coahng, and, as at Nonaimo itself there is
nothing to be seen or done, we depended

200 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
upon fishing for amusement. In Captain
Spalding we made a dehghtful acquaint
ance. He was a thorough sportsman of
the old school, and an Englishman of a
type unfortunately becoming rare. It
made one half dissatisfied with roaming to
see the charming little place he dwelt in.
We were greeted with regular old-fashioned
courtesy and heartiness, and soon were deep
in angler's mysteries. The fly-book, that
weather-worn Agnus dei of the fisherman,
was brought out and turned over with reve
rential fingers. FHes were examined in the
Hght; the "wood-duck's wing" and "fur
nace hackle " commented on ; the set of
-wings, the legs, the tone of body discussed
-vidth becoming gra-vity. Eods were pro
duced, put together, handled, balanced, and
criticised, etc. Who that is a fisherman
knows not the scene, and where is the
true brother of the craft who ever wearies
of it ? Captain Spalding has been here for
many years, and after wide travelhng de
clares the chmate to be the finest in the
world, no colder than England in winter.

EN ROUTE FOR ALASKA. 201
less variable, and blessed with far longer
summers. Sport of aU kinds, from big
game to trout, though not what it used to be,
is stUl fine. For the benefit of later comers,
I may say that heavy double-handed,
green-heart rods, almost grilse rods, and
large flies are required to do any good -with
the trout here.
Our chances of sport were slight. At
present there were no fish in the river,
and the most we could expect was an
odd brace or two of stragglers, StiU, as I
was anxious to try a new rod I had ordered
from England of Farlow, I started next
morning in the dingey for the mouth
of the Nonaimo river. The greater part of
the morning we spent in getting aground
in the bay, as we missed the river channel.
Finally the tide left us high and dry, so I
walked across the mud flats, and left the
men to follow when it rose again.
After fishing some distance up stream,
a farm cottage came in sight, and I went
up to ask if the 0"wners had a canoe and a
boy who could show me the best casts.

202 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
A garrulous Irishwoman, with a mixed
crowd of dogs, chUdren, and pigs, met me.
After a general engagement, in which the
dogs bit the pigs, the chUdren disabled
the dogs, and the woman rated the children,
order was restored, and I preferred my
request. " Canoe ! Sure, ye can have the canoe, if
it's floating just now ; but the bhoys is aU
away afther the cows. There's Norah,
though. Here, Norah ! Norah ! Norah !
Is the canoe floating just now ? "
" Yes ; the boys stopped it again."
" Then show the gintleman war the
Inguns catches aU the fish."
While the canoe was being baled out, I
struck a bargain with the old lady and
purchased a spaniel of her.
The farm lay in a delta of the river, and
the canoe was on the branch of it I had
not yet seen. We were soon afloat. Norah,
as she stood in the stern of the dug-out
pushing it off from land, was a picture.
She was strikingly pretty. How old?
WeU, not more than fifteen or sixteen, I

EN ROUTE FOR ALASKA. 203
should think, and very girhsh — just a slim
slip of a gfrl, active as a deer. Beneath
her short rough kirtle appeared bare ankles,
smaU and rounded ; they were splashed
-with mud, but none the less shapely. No
hat or snood confined her glossy golden
brown hair ; its tangled and rmkempt
masses were simply tossed, or thrust back
from time to time from her oval face. But
when you looked at her first you seemed to
see nothing but eyes — great, blue, far-away
eyes, so dark beneath their long lashes that
they seemed almost black. In the small
brown face they glowed Hke lamps, and
monopolized all scrutiny. A nose "tip-
tilted," and mobUe hps a thought too large,
were 
" You'd better be fishing aU away down
here," said my wild-looking, though lovely
boatwoman, glancing shyly down at her
paddle in the water in a manner that re-
caUed me to the object of our trip.
Half reluctantly, I caught up the rod and
began to reel off line and fish. With con
summate ease she guided the light dug-

204 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
out do"wn the swift "ruffies," as she called
them, steadying it, and pausing here and
there near a good cast, whUst she volun
teered an occasional hint as to the work
ing of them. There was a pecuhar charm
in the situation. Imagine to yourself,
reader, a light canoe and a warm, stiU
summery afternoon : she in the stern,
sUently dipping her paddle here and there,
or with slight turn of wrist directing your
course ; you in the bows, lazUy casting now
and then, and thinking how
" Small is the worth
Of beauty from the light retired,"
and what a pity it was that such a
face should be "born to blush unseen;"
whUst on you drifted down a winding
stream, each bend of which, with its
Hghts and shades, its eddies and rapids, its
masses of grey rock, piled mosses, and over
hanging foliage, was a picture of marvel
lous beauty. We only caught a brace of
fish, but I didn't complain.
Next day the Witch finished coaling, and
the following morning we left, Seymour

EN ROUTE FOR ALASKA. 205
Narrows, an exceedingly ugly bit of naviga
tion and the scene of one or two wrecks,
were passed in the evening. The yacht
then anchored for the night, and stopped
at Fort Eupert the succeeding evening.
We arrived, however, too late to land, even
had there been — and we were told there
was not — anything to repay us for doing so.
In the course of the evening H  received
an exceedingly pohte note from the Bishop
of Caledonia, who, in travelhng round his
diocese, had paused at this out-of-the-way
corner of the world. He "wrote to recom
mend him, if proceeding up the coast, to
take the passage inside Queen Charlotte's
Island, where the scenery was remarkably
fine. We unfortunately were unable to
foUow his lordship's advice, as our course
was now direct to Kodiac. Fort Eupert
is inhabited by one white man, a native
of Dorsetshire, who, for over five and
twenty years, has not even been as far from
home as Nonaimo, but, perfectly contented
with his lot, prefers to live here amongst
his Indian famUy and the natives.

206 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
Schools of fur seals, whales, and sea-
lions occasionaUy enhvened the look-out
during the ensuing six days, and, favoured
part of that time by a fair "wind, the yacht
at length reached Kodiac Harbour. De
spite its disposition to barrenness, the coast
is fine. Swiftly we approached the rocky
shore of grey cliffs, beneath which lay
scattered faUen boulders wrapped in dark
seaweed, and girt each one with a silver
ripple. Yellow grass, dead after the long-
winter, spread over all the hilly country,
broken only by patches of snow or irregular
woods of spruce-pine trees of the deepest,
richest green, tipped with golden points to
every sprig and branch. Peaked ranges of
pure white mountains rose behind like weird
spectres — phantom monarchs, majestic and
beautiful, but unreal looking and strange.
" WeU, Mike, so that is Alaska, eh ? "
Michaelo-vitch Nenovitch (a Montenegrin
and the pilot who had come with us from
San Francisco) removes his heavy meer
schaum to indulge in the laughter that is
always bubbling from his moustached lips.

EN ROUTE FOR ALASKA. 207
"Yes, sir, dat Kodiac (starboard); 'Laska
close by. Der you find all bears you want
(starboard) ; more too. Come right 'long
beach some time ; nee'n't look for 'em.
Now, sfr-, dis Kodiac (hard a-port). What
you s'pose dem dam scamp call me here?
(Starboard.) WeU, sir, you know my name
— Mike Nenovitch, eh ? WeU, pretty fine,
eh ? Dey caU me Mike Sonov  "
However, we won't repeat Mike's nick
name, although from the way in which he
laughs at the rhyme, he appears to regard
it as rather a compHment.
The viUage of Kodiac — or perhaps I
should say Kodiac City, for when we landed
one of the inhabitants, in the course of
conversation, mentioned that on account
of a wedding the "city" had been in an
uproar on the previous evening, and sub
sequently I heard it frequently so denomi
nated — Kodiac City, then, contains two
hundred inhabitants, aU Indians and
Creoles, with the exception of eight or
ten white men. They are the Eussian
priest, the Custom-House officer, and the

208 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
agents and employees of the Alaska and
Western Fur Trading Companies, which
possess stations here.
Shortly before we arrived, a new priest
had been installed, and finding that under
the too indulgent sway of his predecessor
the morals of the congregation and thefr
regard for religious observances had lapsed
into laxity, he was, as we were informed,
" giving them a regular straightening out.
Yes, sir, you bet they're having a way-up
time just now. Old man priest he's told
'em they was all going to hell in -winter
clothing straight away, if they didn't purify.
For my part, I wish they'd hurry up and
purify, or be d  d right now, and stop
that 'tarnal bell, for it's going aU day and
night too."
Most of the white inhabitants "visited
us on board, and dined and breakfasted
with us whUst we were there. They ex
hibited the heartiest desire to entertain
us and do all in thefr power to make our
visit agreeable ; at the same time, they could
not forbear occasionaUy romancing a Httle

EN ROUTE FOR ALASKA. 209
w
for our benefit. The bear tales (bears have
tales here) were thrilling, although at times
a Httle "too thin." Bears in this part of
the world would seem to be exceedingly
numerous and ferocious. Nine "bars" at
a time was no unusual sight, and fr-om the
numberless narrow escapes we were told of,
the frequency with which "the bar he
went for me," the many times "you should
jess have seen me put "¦ — in other words,
run — and the invariable success with which
they "plugged him when he was jess two
yards off; yes, sir, 'bout time too, you bet,"
bear hunting- in Alaska appeared to be an
exciting and, in the highest degree, dan
gerous sport, to be indulged in only by the
most reckless and daring temperaments. It
was reassuring to observe the state of ex
cellent preservation in which our infor
mants had contrived to pass through the
dangers they had encountered.
Mr. Washbourne, agent of the Alaska
Fur Trading Company, was kind enough
to show us the stock of furs they hap
pened to have on hand. Amongst them,
VOL. II. P

210 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
besides mink, marten, land otter, bear,
ermine, red and cross fox, and wolverine,
there were a number of sea-otter and
silver fox furs. It was a sight a woman
would have revelled in. The sea-otter,
of jet black, with sUver points or long
single sUver hafrs, and the silver fox frirs
are the two handsomest skins for purposes
of dress that the world can show. There
they were strung up in a loft to long
poles, in bunches of eight or ten. It was
an interesting sight if only to have an
opportunity of learning how little of the
sea-otter and silver fox fur worn in Europe
is genuine, and how slight the resemblance
is between the real skins and thefr imita
tions. A handsome and reaUy first-rate sea-
otter skin is worth from ^670 to ^95, and
a good sUver fox pelt wUl fetch ^25 or ^630 ;
indeed, they have been known to reahze,
even in Victoria, as much as .£60. A white
trapper we met informed us that he and
two partners had made £1200 during the
last winter hunting sea-otters. The prices
trappers receive from the companies are

EN ROUTE FOR ALASKA. 211
widely disproportionate to the prices the
latter demand. In this instance our in
formant said that their skins are exception
ally fine and level, but had averaged sixty
doUars, or £12. Indians receive stiU less,
thfr-ty-five doUars being the average price
this season.
Anxious to afford us every possibility of
amusement, Messrs. Washbourne, Fisher,
Hfr-she, and Smart gave a ball to the
Creoles, and in-vited us to it. Seldom have
I been more surprised than I was to witness
the dancing of these Kodiac belles. Thefr
waltzing would have shown to advantage
in any European saloon. They danced the
trois temps and executed the reverse in
the most easy and finished style. When
Alaska was handed over to America by
the Eussians, three companies of United
State soldiers were quartered in Kodiac,
and from them it appears that, aided by
natural talent, they speedUy acqufred this
accompHshment. Our baU-room was an
old barrack-room, possessing an excellent
floor, to improve which wax candles had

212 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
been scraped and rubbed in. Flags and
spruce-pine boughs formed the decorations.
The music consisted of an accordian, a
concertina, a penny whistle, and a banjo,.
on which latter instrument one of our
men occasionally accompanied himself, and
varied the entertainment with a song.
Introductions and programmes were dis
pensed -with. The ladies when not dancing
sat in a hne against the waU, along
one side of the room. From the opposite
side you reconnoitred, made up your mind,
and then crossed and bore off your any
thing but blushing partner.
Considerable rivafry exists amongst the-
beUes of Kodiac " city," although to an
outsider it would appear that then* claims-
to beauty are in no case worth pressing,.
and certainly elsewhere would be most un
likely to excite feeHngs of jealousy or
admiration. However, everything is judged
by comparison, and so perhaps it may be
with beauty in Kodiac. Certain it is that
in more civilized regions a severe shock
would be inflicted on the nervous system

EN ROUTE FOR ALASKA.

of any lady-kiUer who was called upon to
embrace " the beautiful Nadir." Here she
is the "Kodiac lily," the cynosure of all
eyes and the object of universal devotion.
When this Northern Queen frowns the
Creole beau languishes, and when she
smUes his happiness is supreme. Even
white men yield her aUegiance.
Supper was served in an adjoining room,
and the dancing proceeded with vigour
until a late hour, half the population of
the " city " being present. In common
with the Indians, the Creoles possess a
passionate predilection for strong waters.
Thefr- ideal conception of happiness is a
"good drunk." I doubt whether, notwith
standing what the priest may tell them,
drink does not hold a foremost place in their
category of the pleasures reserved for them
in paradise. No Creole, I am sure, would
construct in imagination a paradise with
out a barrel of "forty-rod" whiskey be
hind the door. Later on I discussed
the subject, through an interpreter, with
a guide of ours. His idea was that there

214 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
would be " pleenty vodki " in heaven. A
Creole "will not thank you for a tot of
spirits— it is not enough to touch his heart,
or rather his head; but make him intoxi
cated, and you have conferred a favour
which commands the gratitude of one whose
race are said to be almost devoid of the
sentiment. Creole women are, however,
shy of exposing this weakness before white
people, and though they wUl not scruple to
get tipsy amongst themselves, they some
times (not often) aUow thefr amour propre
so far to influence them, that they "wUl
even refuse a drink offered them by a white
person. I heard of one Kodiac beUe who,
ornamented with a black eye and other
marks of battle gained in an orgie overnight,
nevertheless refused the proffered "nip"
next morning with great dignity. "No,
sar, ladies don't drink in Kodiac."
Owing to the stringent laws against the im
portation of spirits, it has become almost
impossible to purchase any. The natives
therefore, distil it themselves fr-om sugar,
molasses, and flour. A simple substitute

EN ROUTE FOR ALASKA. 215

for a stiU is contrived with two kerosene
oil cans and a gun barrel. As may be
supposed, they are not, like Mrs. Trapes,
" very curious in their liquors." If the
stuff burns the throat, it is good, and by the
extent to which this effect is produced do
they measure its quality.
At a ball given by the officers of a Govern
ment ship on one occasion the whiskey ran
short. It was as unnatural to expect
dancing without whiskey as steam without
moisture, so the officers applied to a scien
tific professor in the Government employ,
and begged him to concoct a liquor of some
sort. He drew off half the alcohol his
specimens were preserved in, diluted it
plentifully with water, added tea to colour
it and pepper to make it "bite," mixed the
whole thoroughly, and presented them with
what, considering the purposes for which the
alcohol had served, might be termed punch
au cadavre, or punch d Vhistoire naturel.
However, it was pronounced exquisite. No
deaths were announced next morning ; but
the Creole stomach is about one hundred

216 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
horse power, and will disregard anything
short of a large dose of arsenic or a pig of
lead. Morahty here is, I am told, at a discount ;
nor do I fancy that " old man priest " and
his bell "wiU succeed in effecting much
reformation. Most of the damsels may be
said, at least, to fiicker in the socket of
virtue, and, alas for the reputation of the
cloth ! there is a naughty young priest, or
" priest's mate " as they caU him, who sets a
sad example to the jeunesse doree of Kodiac.
Eussian is the language spoken here, and
the religion that of the Greek Church. To
the many saints' days and hoHdays in its
calendar, every man adds the anniversaries
of the deaths of any of his relations he may
think fit to notice. It was customary at
one time to allow them to brew liquor on
a holiday, but this privUege had to be
withdrawn, as they made every day in the
year "prasnic," and a wife's maternal great-
uncle or a cousin sundry times removed,
if dead, stood godfather to an annual orgie.
The advent of a yacht was an event

EN ROUTE FOR ALASKA. 217
unprecedented in the annals of Kodiac.
With the exception of the revenue cutter,
and a few smaU trading schooners that at
regular intervals touch here, and whose
arrivals constitute the sole interruption in
the year's monotonous routine, Kodiac is
never visited by ships. Moreover, the
Witch was said to be the only steam vessel
the natives had ever beheld ; consequently,
when the steam launch made its first trip
.ashore, aU the Creole and Indian inhabi
tants of the place were gathered open-
mouthed upon the httle wharf, to gaze at
the "samovar," or tea-kettle, boat. Greater
stUl was the curiosity and surprise ex
pressed by them at the sight of Jacko the
monkey, for he enjoyed the honour of being
the first of his race that had visited Kodiac.

218 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.

CHAPTEE XII.
cook's inlet.
We left Kodiac for Cook's Inlet, over
whelmed with the good "wishes of our
hospitable entertainers. At the same time
they frankly said that, o-wing to the un
usual lateness of the winter, we had not the
least chance of doing any good for a month.
From the state of the country, and the
result of two or three attempts we then
made at fishing and shooting, this seemed
only too probable. It became even more
evident when we reached Enghsh Bay.
Here snow covered everything, and the
river, save for a smaU channel in mid
stream, was still unopened. Neither bfr-ds
nor fish had yet arrived, bears were not yet
" out," and no game had been seen. A few

CO OK IS INLET. 219

stray ducks were all we got ; so, after three
days' fruitless labour, anchor was weighed
at evening, and we woke next morning in
Coal Harbour, further up the inlet. One
and not the least amidst the charms of
yachting as a means of travelling, is this
possibihty of going to rest in one place and
waking, with journey completed, surrounded
by entfrely different scenery in another.
After reconnoitring the yacht for some
time, two natives in a bidarki, or sealskin
canoe, came alongside, and were induced
by the Creole pilot H  had brought from
Kodiac for Cook's Inlet, to remain with us.
In the afternoon we went ashore, under
their guidance, to shoot over some marshes.
Later on, birds are said to resort here in
great numbers. We found only a few, and
those few were wUd. Our bag was five
couple of ducks and three geese.
The following day we made a pleasant,
though as far as game was concerned an
unsuccessful, excursion to the head of the
bay in the steam launch. The natives
came as guides, but refused to land, and

220 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
no amount of pantomimic signs would induce
them to quit their warm corner before the
launch's furnace. However, returning, the
wind was in our faces, and the Indians
poisoned that wind to such an extent
that we were forced to place them in the
dingey, which was towed behind. Next
morning, as they were entirely useless, their
bidarki was hoisted off deck and they were
despatched home again.
Our Indian guides having failed us, I
went with the launch and cutter to a Creole
"vUlage, twenty mUes off, in quest of others.
Mike accompanied me, together "vrith Pon
tius,* Said, and some saUors. The after
noon was rough, and we had a wet trip,
arri-ving at our destination about seven
o'clock. It was a pretty vUlage, composed of log
huts, situated in clearings amidst pine trees
on the hilly shores of a tiny land-locked
bay. A Eussian came out of the Western
* The Creole pilot H  had brought from Kodiac
for Cook's Inlet, so called to distinguish him from the
pilot — Mike.

COOK'S INLET. 221

Fur Trading Company's store, and bid us
simply but heartily "Welcome." The
pilot. Said, and 1 passed the night in his
hut ; the men occupied an empty cabin near
us. They, I fancy, had the best of it, for
we, as it were, broached our host's dwelling
after its long winter's botthng. To exclude
the cold afr, every door, window, and crack
had been filled up with moss and pasted
over "with paper. Consequently we derived
the fuU benefit of the accumulated dirt and
closeness of a whole season. I can stand
almost anything, nevertheless my olfactory
nerves rebeUed in this case, and I was forced
to request that the door might be left open
a little while untU I became accustomed to
the powerful aroma that greeted us. Any
one who knows what a Eussian peasant's
hut is Hke after the owner has been hiber
nating for some months wiU appreciate the
trial. These cottages are simply but strongly
buUt of split pine trees, overlapping each
other at the corners. They usually consist
of two rooms. The galanka "with which
they are heated is an economical and won-

222 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
derfuUy effective apparatus. It is a large
brick stove buUt in the partition between
the two rooms, or, should the house consist
of four chambers, in the midst of their
adjoining corners, so that each may derive
the benefit of its heat. The upper part
contains a number of recurved, sinuous flues
or pipes, Hke the tubes of a cornet. The
fire is allowed to burn out, these flues are
closed, and the heat, thus confined, does
not escape for twenty-four or even thirty-
six hours afterwards.
In the village we secured the services
of a couple of Creole hunters, and with
them started the next morning to return.
On the way back I shot some puffins and
divers for specimens, and we put into a
charmingly situated little Indian ranche.
The inhabitants, who were chiefiy hunters
employed by the Western Fur Company,
were busily engaged in repafring their
canoes for the summer's work.
There is nothing about the Indians we
have seen as yet that in-vites description.
They have arrived at that semi-civilized

COOK'S INLET. 223

stage in which they are whoUy uninteresting.
AU that can be said about them is that they
are somewhat dirtier, more ugly, and ragged
in appearance than the Creoles, whose cast-
off clothing they appear to wear, with the
addition of a parki, or long blouse of
squfr-rels' skins.
Coal Harbour proved to be a failure, and
on accoimt of the ice we were unable to
penetrate further up the inlet, so a couple
of days later H  gave orders to return
to Kodiac, "with the intention of proceeding
westward, where we were told the winter
was less rigorous.
The day after our arrival, I left with Mr.
Stauf (the agent of the American Eussian
Trading Company) for a bay about eighteen
mUes distant, where bears were reported to
have made thefr debut. We took the launch
dingey, Sai'd, and three men, proposing to
hunt in the evening and early morning, and
return next day.
Soon after leaving Kodiac, the sky
clouded over, it commenced raining heavUy,
wind and sea rose, and it became evident

224 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
that dfrty weather was in store for us.
Nothing, however, is more disgusting than,
having once started on an expedition, to
turn back ; we therefore continued, and after
a long and exceedingly unpleasant nine
miles reached Ozinki, a Creole settlement,
at six o'clock. The launch had behaved
admirably, but in the hea"vy sweU the
dingey was several times almost swept ou
the top of her, and once, owing to carelesa
steering, came with a rush against her stern
that split one of her planks, and narrowly
missed damaging her steering apparatus.
At Ozinki we were to have taken Wasili,
a noted Creole hunter, on board, and con
tinued the trip under his guidance. Fog
and weather were, however, by this time
so hea-vy that he declared it useless to
attempt to reach the bay that night. The
chief of the -viUage put us up very comfort
ably in a remarkably clean, and for those
parts roomy, cottage. Wasih had injunc
tions to caU us at any time during the
night, should the weather abate. But
morning came without our being disturbed,

COOK'S INLET. 225

and although the fog had cleared, the wind
had increased to such an extent that it
was impossible to return to Kodiac There
was, however, nothing to prevent our going
on to the bay, under the lee of the island.
After breakfast, we accordingly left Ozinki,
spent the day loitering along the coast in
quest of "vrild-fowl, and arrived towards
evening at the bay, ha-ving kUled only a
couple of ducks and a snipe. It was miser
able, hopeless sort of weather. Eain and
wind had continued -vnthout cessation, or
even abatement.
We landed at a barabbora, or hut, built
by our Creole for a summer hunting lodge,
and leaving Said and the men to make a
Ifre and cook the ducks, went for a long
tramp round the head of the bay. Almost
needless to say, we returned without suc
cess. MeanwhUe the wind had shifted,
and we were unable now to quit the bay,
A barabbora, reader, constructed to hold
two natives is, as may be supposed, hardly
likely to offer spacious accommodation for
six Europeans and one native,. Moreover,
VOL. II. Q

226 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
owing to the assistance we had received at
Ozinki, our rum and whiskey had given
out, and consequently we had not even
the opportunity of regarding the situation
through that benign lens, the glass of grog.
As yet, however, it was rather a joke. We
built a large wood fire in the centre of the
hut, packed close, added with tobacco to
the atmosphere of smoke, which the wind
prevented escaping through the hole in the
roof, and passed the evening in drying our
clothes. " Said," said I, after a stiff er blast than
usual, " ask the Creole whether this wind is
likely to last long."
A short conversation in Eussian ensued.
" Monsieur, he says that it wiU endure
perhaps three days, perhaps stUl more."
" And what provisions have we left ? "
" II nous reste encore un peu de cafe,
monsieur." Despite the unpleasantness of the situa
tion we could not help laughing at its
absurdity. " Mais oui, c'est tout," he ,affirmed, in-

COOK'S INLET. 227

wardly chuckUng over the idea that there
would be no cooking to do. That night at
dinner we had finished everything with the
ducks. " Then if this wind holds, we shall have
nothing to eat to-morrow but the snipe,
unless we shoot something."
" It's the worst bay in the island for
ducks, besides being too early for them,
and there is no chance of finding big game
in this weather," said Stauf complacently.
An enormous bearskin, one of his last
season's trophies, afforded us a luxurious
couch. The others arranged themselves
Chinese-puzzle fashion on the smaU straw-
covered floor, and, packed like sardines in
a box, we slumbered peacefully. Never
but once have I slept in a tighter fit. It
was in a Bulgarian hut. Poor "Shipka"
CampbeU, bravest among the brave even in
the Turkish army (since mort sur le champ
de bataille), was then the Hfe and soul of
our party. In a little room about fourteen
feet by nine, ten of us slept for two or
three nights. There were three horse

228 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
gunners, a dragoon, two doctors, the corre
spondents of the Morning Post and Standard,
" Shipka " Campbell, and myself, CampbeU
was corresponding at the time for the
Telegraph; in fact, we were aU, or nearly
all, "vmting for some paper or other, and
we used to work in committee, reading
extracts to one another as we proceeded,
and laying claims to certain bits of " copy."
I remember there was a mule of the
mushfr's Campbell determined to monopo
lize. " Look here, you fellows, that mule of
Mehemet All's belongs solely to me. I'm
going to trot up the Yildiz Tabia on the
mushir, so don't you mention it ; and the
shell which pitched right at that fellow's feet,
and didn't explode — that's mine too. Said!
Said !" (Said was his servant then) ; "bring
me encore some more coffee tout suite."
Some one else put in a claim to " the
wounded men coming do"wn the hiU, and
the dead soldier in the snow," etc., and
so on. Then the  But where the
deuce am I getting to? Very sorry,

COOK'S INLET. 229

reader. I can't help it, though ; the fact is
this particular bear trip was most con
foundedly slow. We did nothing but get
wet through and dry ourselves again. Of
course every one was very good tempered,
and laughed over it; still it was not in
teresting. If I thought you cared to hear,
I would teU you how that the second day
was worse than the first ; how an attempt
to get out of the bay signaUy faUed, and
only resulted in our running for shelter into
a cove on the other side of it, where we
found another and a larger barabbora ; how
Stauf bowled over a stray duck with a
long shot just as we were about to land;
how every one said it was the best shot
he had ever seen ; and how that tough old
bfrd and the snipe, stewed with a little
seaweed, formed our meal for that day.
The foUowing morning we hunted as
siduously, and one of the men tried fishing
with the hook of a fly I happened to have
in my cap ; but the chaste goddess did not
favour us, and we saw neither fur, feathers,
nor scales. The trip gradually became more

230 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
interesting, for the weather showed not
the shghtest signs of breaking. At mid-day
we regaled ourselves on a scanty coUection
of mussels boiled vrith seaweed. I was
surprised to find mussels and seaweed
so palatable ; we pronounced them reaUy
exceUent. The peu de cafe — about enough
originaUy for three cups — was boUed for the
third time, and produced seven cups of
first-rate warm water.
Towards evening the wind dropped a
little and we were enabled to get out of
the bay. Our coal was almost exhausted,
so we were forced to substitute wood.
As was natural in such a case, the men
chose damp wood instead of the dry pointed
out to them by the Creole. (For such
contingencies I always blame my own
oversight or laziness, therefore they never
put me out.) Just as we were congratu
lating ourselves, therefore, on the progress
we were making, and had settled in our
own minds that Ozinki would be reached
before the fog became too thick, the revolu
tions of the screw waxed slower and slower

COOKS INLET. 231

it gave a feeble turn, a struggle, and stopped
altogether. Ozinki was eight miles off; it
was gro-wing foggy, the wind was dead
ahead, the fire was out ; it was raining
placidly ; every one was wet through. I may
add that a glass of grog and a mutton chop
would have sold well on board. The
Creole said he knew of a barabbora hard
by, so we put up the saU and ran for it,,
ironically discussing the possibility of
procuring good rooms in it, well-aired
beds, good cooking and attendance, etc.
There were no mussels on this shore,
and no seaweed ; in fact, the place was
altogether badly managed, and I am unable
to recommend it. We boiled the coffee
again and sipped it with gusto. I did not
hear that any one was kept awake by its
effects. Fortunately the men had plenty
of tobacco to chew. Stauf and I smoked
the crumbled leaves of a bad cigar.
Next morning I shot two guUs, and we
breakfasted on gull broth, Stauf is a dainty
man ; he wouldn't eat it. He had tasted
guU before, and, Hke the backwoodsman

232 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
who once ate a carrion crow, he said that
"he could eat it, but he didn't somehow
hanker after it." So he preferred to wait.
I tried it as an experiment, but frankly I
should not advise any one else to do so.
Having collected some dry wood, we
started again for Ozinki, and arrived there
about mid-day. Later on, the wind partially
favouring us, we sailed and steamed back to
Kodiac, where we found that the gig and
cutter had been sent in search of us.
At Kodiac they had experienced equaUy
bad weather. Even had we been there the
yacht could not, or at any rate would not,
have attempted to leave harbour. Our
absence, therefore, occasioned no delay.
It cleared up the day after our return, and
I tried a fly on some neighbouring lakes ;
but although they were full of fish not one
would rise. It is doubtful whether at any
time they would take notice of an artificial
fly, unless, perhaps, once in a way by
chance, as flies do not exist on the lakes
and rivers here. Edlefsen, the saUing-
master, an enthusiastic fisherman, went out

COOK'S INLET. 233

in the cutter with the seine. In one haul
they took six hundred and eleven sea-trout,
besides fifty-four other fish. The largest
trout weighed four pounds and a hah. They
were in fair condition, and proved very
dehcate eating. We dined in the evening
"with Stauf, who very good-naturedly made
us some handsome presents of skins and
specimens of Indian work.

234 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.

CHAPTEE XIII.
chignick bay.
Wasili, the Creole hunter mentioned in the
last chapter, accompanied us fr-om Kodiac
on this occasion. Five years before he had
hunted in Chignick Bay, whither we were
now bound, and as the place was totally
uninhabited, either by white men or natives,
we were recommended to take him in the
capacity of a shikari. Leaving Kodiac at
mid-day, a day intervened before we dropped
anchor at early morning in Chignick Bay.
It was commonly reported at Kodiac that
you could shoot bears here "just as fast as
you could load; " in fact, the place was de
scribed to us as a sort of bear warren.
Making due aUowance for exaggeration, or

CHIGNICK BAY. 235

deducting some four hundred bears a day
from this estimate, a fair margin still re
mained for sport. The last few weeks had
"witnessed the enforced abdication of winter,
consequently every one was on the qui vive.
With a pair of field-glasses the Creole
busily scanned the snow-patched mountains,
whilst the men imagined bears and " queer
sorts of animals " in every rock and tuft of
scrub. Bear traUs, it is true, were distinctly
visible on the snow, but it was not until
just as breakfast was finished that game
was credibly reported in sight. Instantly
we rushed on deck, and a herd of four
reindeer became the focus of half a dozen
glasses. " Fritz, Said, Satan, Paul, Boots,
Eifles, Cartridges, etc. ! CaU the gi^ away,
Fife ! "
In five minutes H  and I were being
rowed ashore. Meanwhile, the reindeer had
strayed away over the brow of a hUl and
were lost to -view. We separated. H 
took Mike, and good-naturedly, as usual,
sent Wasili with me. It was fearful walk
ing; the steep hills were covered -with

236 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
knee-deep moss and patches of leafless
bush, amidst the roots of which lay heaps
of unthawed snow. We soon struck the
tracks, but issuing from some bush rather
incautiously, the reindeer we were following ,
caught sight of us at three hundred yards'
distance before we had discovered them,
and made off at a gentle trot. The extra
ordinary manner in which the winter coat
of the reindeer assimilates itself with broken
patches of moss and snow renders it ex
tremely difficult to distinguish them unless
moving, even at a comparatively short dis
tance. Even the practised eye of the
Creole was sometimes, as in this instance,
at fault.
"No good, Wasih, eh?"
" No goot," echoed taciturn Nimrod,
mournfuUy. He took anything of this sort
so much to heart that his already solemn
visage became fiUed with touching melan
choly. "No goot," he murmured sadly;
and waving his leg-of-mutton paw with a
gentle gesture of resignation, we foUowed
in the direction the deer had taken. Then,

CHIGNICK BAY. 237
climbing a high point, we halted to mark
them down and give them time to recover
thefr alarm.
The amount we contrived mutually to
explain, with the aid of a few signs and the
simple "V70i-ds " good " or "no good," became
with a httle practice remarkable. The only
difficulty lay in Wasili's confounded polite
ness. I had only to point in a direction and
inqufre whether it was "good" for him
to answer promptly and solemnly " Ja
goot," shoulder his rifle, and march that
way at once, although he knew the very
opposite course was the best to pursue in
quest of game.
Wasih had laid aside my glasses, with
which he had been ha-ving what he
caUed " chorroschenco smotrick " {Anglice,
1 take it, " a good look round "), and
was rolhng himself a cigarette. Lying on
the soft couch of moss, I did the same.
It was a lovely day; that summer's day
in a winter's setting which is rare, but
always charming. The genial rays of the
sun shone down upon us doubly warm and

238 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
doubly welcome by reason of their late
rarity, and for those few dehghtfuUy idle
moments I reveUed in the grand scenery.
What possessed Wasih's thoughts, I know
not; he looked infinitely melancholy, as
indeed he always does. Perhaps, though
less poeticaUy, he was wondering, Hke the
old king released from durance vile by
Goldmar — " 0 Sonn', o ihr Berge driiben
0 Feld und o gruner Wald !
Wie seid ihr so Jung geblieben
Und ich bin worden so alt ; "
for Wasih must be five and forty if a day,
and, for a Creole, that is the " sear and
yeUow." From the moorland hiUsides
came wafted up on the noontide breeze, a
kind of reek of the peat or recoUection
of the heather — perhaps more in fancy than
reahty. Ever and anon the dreamy and
perfect stiUness was broken by the musical
calling of an old cock ptarmigan, or the
sullen thunder of faUing snow, loosened by
the heat, up in the hUls there, in some
unknown valley. White guUs saUed be

CHIGNICK BAY. 239

twixt US and the blue bay, whose waters
far away down below trembled and quivered
in a flood of golden sunHght, and stretched
beyond ken out to sea, lost on the hazy
horizon. " Elena ! elena ! " * exclaimed Wasili at
length, pointing to two tiny grey specks
slowly crossing a dark bit of ground, how
far off I should be sorry to guess. How
ever, they could not proceed much farther,
as they were near the extremity of a tongue
of land reaching out into the hay. A long
scramble brought us down to the shore,
along which we walked until nearly opposite
the spot where the reindeer had been
seen. We then struck inland and soon
discovered them. One was lying down,
the other standing. The ground was
favom-able for stalking, and at seventy-
five yards I fired at the one standing. By
the welcome thud of the bullet, I knew
he was bagged, although he ran for a short
distance as though uninjured. The other
started up and immediately placed some
¦* Eeindeer.

240- WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
bushes between us, but as he made a cfrcuit
between me and the shore, I ran across
to cut him off, and at sixty yards dropped
him as he crossed me with a buUet behind
the shoulder, greatly to the Creole's delight.
We gralloched and left them. On the
way back we fell in -with H  , who had
bagged another reindeer and seen a couple
of wolves. The same evening the steam
launch was sent to collect the game, which
was fortunately all close to the shore. The
venison was in splendid condition, and was
declared by aU of us to be the best we had
ever tasted. As we were getting short
of fresh meat, it proved a welcome addition
to the ship's larder.
Drizzling rain and mist succeeded our
one fine day, a fine day, as we subsequently
learnt, being a kind of meteorological jewel.
Were it not for this drawback, this hopeless
succession of wet days, hunting in Alaska
would bear the palm from most countries.
Elsewhere there may be a greater variety
of game, and undoubtedly the walking could
hardly be worse, but a few days on these

CHIGNICK BAY. 241
hills instils such -vigour and racy energy
into a man, as he has probably never before
experienced. The day seems not long
enough to tire in, and the heavy walking
becomes a mere nothing. Without any
particular predUection in favour of high
latitudes, I must still say that for perfect
health I have yet found no place like
Alaska. With H  it was the same ; on
the way up he was so thoroughly prostrated
and shaken by a hacking cough, that both
S  and I earnestly begged him to
change the yacht's course and go south
to a warm chmate. He, however, refused
to do so, and this afr, notwithstanding the
rough weather, effected in him the most
complete and sudden cure — -almost, I may
say, transformation — that I have ever seen.
The next day's hunting was unsuccessful.
H  , however, who went out -with the
seine, made a fine haul of sea-trout that
were dehcious eating.
Chignick Bay comprises a large extent of
water, and contains three separate harbours.
The yacht was anchored in one ; the second
VOL. II. R

242 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
was smaU, shaUow, and unimportant ; the
third (by far the largest) penetrated some
miles inland, and received a river flowing
from a chain of three inland lakes connected
one with another. By the Creole's advice
we now prepared for an excursion into
the first of these lakes. The party consisted
of ourselves, Mike, Fritz, Said, the Creole,
and three men to manage the steam launch
and cutter. We left the yacht at eleven,
taking with us two tents and provisions
for a week.
At the entrance of the thfrd harbour we
came upon large flocks of wild-fowl,
amongst which were a great number of the
handsome parrot-bUled and harlequin ducks.
Steaming slowly ahead, we had half an
hour's regular battue, as, with musical whir
ring of wings, they rose on either side
or circled round us; then, resuming our
journey, we reached the head of the bay,
and passed up about a mile and a half of
rapid, rock-studded river into the first lake.
During the last half-mile we put up two
pairs of wild swans, and chased a seal that

CHIGNICK BAY. 243
kept ahead of us until we lost it ih the
lake. This lake is not named in the charts,
and although frequented occasionally by
native hunters, hitherto but few white men
(at any rate since Eussian evacuation of
the territory) have visited it. It is sur
rounded by lofty hiUs, which in places
descend sheer down into the water. There
was less snow here than at any spot we
had yet seen.
We had covered about haK the length of
the lake, when Fife the bo'sun exclaimed —
"There's a bear. Sir T  -."
Wasih had made the same discovery,
and was pointing out to us, high upon
the brow of a hUl, a brown spot moving
amongst sorne scanty bush. For the last
two hours it had been raining heavily,
and as the delay now necessary would
bring evening upon us, it was determined
to land and camp at once. The wind was
off shore, so Wasih and I started to
stalk the bear up the bush-covered face
of the hUl. We should most probably
have succeeded in getting a shot at him..

244 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
had Aot nearly all the sailors and servants,
animated by a doubtless commendable
love of sport, foUowed in our track. The
bear stood it for some time ; then he con
cluded to change quarters, and the way he
pranced up that hiUside was a sight for
sprint runners. S  had an inflamed eye,
and H  was stUl too much of an invahd
to attempt to scale such a hUl ; they had
both, therefore, remained behind. Subse
quently, as we returned to camp after a
long tramp, we struck upon the bear's
hurried tracks crossing a patch of snow,
over a mile and a half from the spot where
we had seen him. We reached the tents
wet through, but H  had hot grog and
dinner waiting.
Morning broke cold and foggy ; it was
still blowing hard, and snow was faUing.
It was useless to attempt to hunt, so no
one turned out early. As the day wore
on the sun came out brightly, and striking
tents we moved to the head of the lake,
where a small bay offered a sheltered and
convenient locality for camping. During

CHIGNICK BAY. 245
the afternoon we lounged about on the
sandy shore and smoked an indefinite
number of pipes. It was scandalously lazy,
but exceedingly pleasant, for the day had
turned out lovely. Towards evening (which
as it is not dark untU past ten o'clock,
gives ample time for a fair walk) H  and
S  crossed the lake to shoot ducks,
whUst WasiU and I went inland. We were
unsuccessful; they shot seven couple of
ducks, and saw several wUd swans and a
beaver dam.
At three o'clock next morning, I left the
others in the blankets and turned out. In
the dim light of early dawn the gaunt
brown hiUs, snow-capped, and the wild
treeless scenery, showed with softer out
Une and a gentler aspect than in the glare
of day. On the shores of the lake, whose
mirrored surface was unvexed by a single
ripple, was the still smouldering fire of
yesterday, -with its Httle pUlar of blue
smoke. By it Said was preparing some
cocoa. Presently the Creole issued from
the men's tents with his rifle, took his

246 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
cocoa with a wry face as if it was Gregory's
powder, and in a few minutes off we went.
What a glorious morning it was ! The
world seemed young and glowing with
stimulating freshness. A light hoar frost
silvered the mosses, and here and there,
clinging to the deeper ravines and wrap
ping the higher mountain tops, remained
some yet undissipated traces of mist. Over
hill and dale, through ravine and bush, we
tramped for mile after mile. Fresh tracks
were round us everywhere — the reindeer's
hoof-marks, trail of wolf, dainty fox spoor,
and the great cushioned footprint of the
bear, armed with significant impression of
mighty claws. Some were but a few hours
old. StiU we saw no game. The fiery glow
of sunrise was already pouring over the hills
to our right, its dappled rosy reflections in
the pearly skies were growing deeper and
more rich, when the Creole ejaculated —
"Elena!"More than a mile off in a direct line were
four reindeer, on the far side of the river
that flowed beneath us and connected the

CHIGNICK BAY. 247

first and second lakes. To reach them un
less they crossed was out of the question,
for the river was over a hundred yards wide
and fairly deep. Even had we crossed there
was nothing but a bare plain to stalk them
on. We sat down to rest and watch them.
One by one they plunged in, and for a few
minutes reveUed in their morning bath. In
the still rarified atmosphere we could hear
distinctly, even at this distance, the sound
of their splashing. Anon they went off at a
trot. " No goot," said Wasili sorrowfully, as
we proceeded, chmbing higher and higher
until over the plains beyond us in the far
distance the blue horizon of the Behring
Sea was distinguishable "with glasses.
The hiUs here trended to the right, and
we foUowed their dfrection for some distance.
At length the Creole's keen eye discovered
another herd of reindeer amidst the moss
on the plains below. They were a long way
off, and eventuaUy we found it impossible
to get within three hundred yards of them,
as the ground was guiltless of the lightest

248 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
stick of cover. Being but an indifferent
shot with a rifle, I knew it was not the
shghtest use firing at this distance, and
therefore attempted to emulate the cunning
of one of Mayne Eeid's "Vidly Indians or
crafty backwoodsmen by worming my way
towards them through the ruts in the
moss. Need I relate with what success ?
In a few minutes ' the reindeer were to be
seen, still going rapidly, on the shoulder of
the highest mountain in the neighbourhood.
Wasili, with a grin, said it was "no goot."
We paused for a whUe and divided half a
biscuit. "WeU, which way shall we go now?
Good, eh ? " and I pointed north.
" Goot," said the Creole, left foot forward
and quick march.
" Hold hard ; not so quick. Good, eh ? "
and I pointed south.
" Goot," he replied, right-about facing
and making off in that direction with equal
alacrity. You couldn't argue with this man.
His passive acquiescence would kill a woman
with vexation in a fortnight.

CHIGNICK BAY. 249
Wending our way homewards by a circui
tous route, we discovered yet another herd
of four reindeer. I made sure at one time
of bagging at least one of these. They were
feeding dfrectly towards some low scrub, in
the most advanced outpost of which I con
trived to establish myself without exciting
the shghtest suspicion. Very indolently
they fed on in a dfrect Hne towards me. I
lay down in a nice soft bog of red mud and
moss to wait patiently, whilst what remained
dry about me after crossing sundry streams
and stalking, became speedily soaked. After
a while I ventured to peer over the scrub,
and was disgusted to find that the buck was
lying down. In the course of the next hour
two of the does foUowed suit. They were
about two hundred and fifty yards' distance
fr-om me. Could any animals behave in a
more disgustingly ill-conditioned manner?
It was the sort of thing a costermonger's
donkey would do if he was being stalked.
From my wet ambush I launched anathemas
deep and original at that lordly buck and the
lights of his harem. I was wet through;

250 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
lying there with nothing to do, I had dis
covered a most imperious appetite ; and the
possibUity recurred to me with mocking
persistency that if I did wait till they,
moved, it might, after all, be in the opposite
direction. After another half hour of it,
therefore, I cut some brushwood, and, adopt
ing- this as a screen, moved like Birnam
Wood on Dunsinane. Had it not been for
the truly feminine doe that would neither
lie down nor move on, I believe I should
have got a fair shot. However, before long
my bush, of course, excited her confounded
curiosity. StiU it was not tiU I was within a
hundred and fifty yards that with an idiotic
flirt and a caper she skipped off. The others
sprang up and immediately followed her
example, a brace of bullets that I sent after
them taking no effect.
After this last ineffectual effort we turned
our steps towards camp, following the banks
of the river. On the way I noticed in some
sand the prints of mocassins, and Wasili
picked up a scrap of paper that had e-vidently
served as a gun-wad. These proved the

CHIGNICK BAY. 251

Creole's already expressed opinion, that
native hunters had lately traversed the
country, to be correct. We reached camp
soon after four in the afternoon. H 
had been out aU the morning, but had seen
nothing. S  stiU had an inflamed eye
which prevented his shooting. H  was
just starting across the lake again in quest
of ducks, and S  accompanied him for
the walk. After a bath, breakfast, and a
pipe, I took the rifle and struck across
country in the direction of our old camp.
The Creole pleaded a game leg — more lazi
ness, I fancy, than anything- — so I went
alone, and returned between nine and ten
"without having seen anything but a porcu
pine, which I killed with my knife. He was
first-rate eating.
During my absence H  's servant, Fritz,
who had been out for a walk with Mike,
retm-ned triumphant with the skin of a bear
he had kiUed only a mile from camp, and
on ground we had passed over in the morn
ing. Fritz, by the way, is a very good shot
with a rifle, and, what is more important

252 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
stiU is proverbially lucky in seeing game.
Though smaU, the skin was the handsomest
I have ever seen. This is the most favour
able period in the year for obtaining bears'
skins. They are now in perfect condition.
Later on, the coats are shed and become
worn and rubbed. H-  again had good
sport with the ducks. By some merciful
dispensation we were blessed "with another
fine day. After an unsuccessful walk we
breakfasted at nine, then, striking camp,
steamed slowly down the lake, and entered
a large bay that it formed about half-way up
on the left-hand side. Here we landed for
a walk, but only saw one reindeer, and that
not until he had carefully examined us.
In all directions the country was traversed
by regular beaten paths, some of which
were sunk eight or ten inches in the ground.
These, the Creole affirmed, were worn by the
frequent passage to and fro of bears, and
from the cropped blades of young grass here
and there they had evidently been lately used.
Taking into consideration the number of
these trails, and the immense amount of

CHIGNICK BAY. 253
wear it must have taken to bring them to
their present condition, it seemed as if we
had struck upon the original home of bears
— their Garden of Eden. However, the
Creole said he knew of a still better place ;
so, although somewhat reluctantly, we
deferred to his judgment, and quitting the
lake altogether, returned to the bay.
Eventually, as it was raining and blowing
hea-vUy, and growing late, we had to pitch
camp on the nearest ground, which happened
to be very exposed and unsuitable. Whilst
the men were setting up the tent, and the
servants with difficulty lighting a fire, three
reindeer, feeding, came into sight on a hill
about a quarter of a mile off. H — — • and the
Creole went after them, whilst we watched
thefr proceedings from camp. After some
careful circumnavigation they got within
eighty yards, and H  bowled over a fine
buck. A wet night ensued, and a dismal morning
greeted us. WasUi shook his stolid figure
head with portentous gravity, as he turned
out and looked round a little before three

254 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.

o'clock. H  had determined to strike
camp at nine, and seek a more sheltered
position on the opposite side of the bay.
We were unable, therefore, to extend our
walk to any great distance.
Just as we were on the point of turning
back the Creole's keen eye fixed on three
reindeer. With stately march, halting now
and then to gaze around or crop the heavy
growth of moss, they approached us over
the wet misty moorlands. It was a pictur
esque sight. Between us lay the ford of a
mountain stream, for which they were
making. We established ourselves, lying
down in some thin scrub to wait for them.
Slowly they descended the little rugged
track, and for a while stood drinking at in
tervals in the stream ; then, ascending our
side of the valley, utterly unconscious of
thefr- danger, drew near our hiding-place.
Nearer and nearer, within sixty, fifty, forty
yards, came the buck, and then he halted.
In another fraction of a second he would
have been off. I fired, and the ball pene
trated his chest. He reared half turning.

CHIGNICK BAY. 255
sprang a few paces forwards, and fell dead.
The spot where the reindeer lay, though six
mUes from camp, was not far distant from
the shore ; we gralloched and left it there,
intending to send for it with the steam
launch. Within ten minutes after reaching camp,
the rain came down in torrents, and wind
and sea rose to such an extent that it was
impossible to venture out in the boats.
This continued without intermission the
whole of the day and night. To light a
fire was out of the question ; the spot was
too exposed. Our tent — one of Edginton's,
and an old one too- — did its work nobly,
and, notwithstanding the force of the rain,
aUowed not a drop of water to penetrate.
However, it made no difference to us in the
long run, for the ground around it soon
became thoroughly soaked, and as no trench
had been cut we reaped the consequences.
As for the men, they had pitched their tent
in a hollow to escape the wind, and conse
quently were lying in a pool of water.
Wasili cheered us by saying that weather

256 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
of this kind usually lasted three or four
days. Late on the following morning the wind
slightly abated, and we made an attempt
to reach the yacht. To do this it was
necessary to strike across the bay, and keep
under shelter of the opposite hills. Conse
quently the dead reindeer had to be
abandoned to the wolves. Within five
minutes of entering the boats every one was
comfortably wet through. Mackintoshes in
such wind, rain, and bucketfuls of spray
proved a delusion, for the water got up the
arms and down the back, ran inside the
buttoned front, and seemed to exult in its
ingenuity. Nearuig the mouth of the bay,
where broad sand-banks leave but a narrow
channel, the tow rope broke, and as the sea
was too heavy for the launch to turn back,
we in the cutter were left adrift. With the
wind dead ahead, and no room to tack, it
was useless to put up the sail. An attempt
to row against the incoming tide, which
ran like a miU-race, proved equaUy imprac
ticable. We were therefore obliged to drop

CHIGNICK BAY. 257
back, and wait five or six hours until the
tide turned.
A sheltered spot was discovered under
the lee of a rock, and a fire buUt, by the
aid of which hot grog and tea were soon
served out. This, with an unlimited supply
of tobacco, a lot of yarning, and a Httle
revolver practice, in which Mike, who is an
old Vfrginia City man of early days, and was
for years a miner, proved that his hand had
not lost his cunning, caused the time to
slip away "with astonishing rapidity.
When the tide turned the wind dropped,
and puUing and saihng we were enabled to
reach the yacht by half-past ten, none the
worse for the day's work.
A couple of days afterwards S  and I,
"with Said, the Creole, and three men, left
the yacht in the cutter and launch for the
opposite side of the bay, whither we had not
yet been. H  ' had a touch of his old
enemy, rheumatism, and arranged to follow
us next day if the weather was fine. We
landed late in the afternoon, near a barab
bora built by the Creole when he visited
VOL. II. S

258 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.

the place five years before. Leaving the
men to pitch the tents, S  and I went
for a long walk "with WasUi, but saw only
one reindeer, and that not untU he had
discovered us.
Next morning we saw nothing at all, and
were driven back, as hea"vy wind and rain
prevaUed, and mist at the same time
obscured the country to such an extent
that it was impossible to see more than
forty or fifty yards' distance. The rain and
wind rapidly increased, and continued with
out a moment's cessation throughout the
day and night.
Early next morning, when I awoke, it
was blowing a splendid gale, and our tent-
pegs, which had repeatedly loosened in the
soaked ground, drew in several places.
The tent seemed doomed to come down.
Above the turmoU of the elements, as
we clung to the tent-poles, I could hear
Tip conjugating the verb "to d  n," and
solemnly cursing (with an amount of
quaintness and originahty that would have
done credit to a Turk, and which nearly

CHIGNICK BAY. 259
kUled me with laughter) the tent and the
poles, the pegs and the ropes, the rain,
wind, and sea, Alaska, and the northern
hemisphere generaUy, his own hard fate
in particular, and me for persuading him to
come on this expedition. In the midst of
it aU came Said to say —
" Monsieur, le stim launch est parti pour
la Perse."
"Comment?"" Le stim launch est parti, ou fondu — ou
ne salt pas quoi."
Everything was wet through, so ' we
shifted quarters into the barabbora, which
the men had cleared out, and then foUowed
them in search of the launch. She had
been anchored some Httle distance from the
shore, but during the night had chafed and
cut her cable and gone adrift. By truly
marveUous good fortune she escaped the
rocks, and ran aground on the only little
smooth patch in the neighbourhood. Had
she been pUoted by guardian angels it could
not have been better managed. It was a
work of considerable labour to get her up

260 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
above high- water mark ; this was, however,.
eventually accomplished, and it was then
discovered that she had only lost her
anchor and sustained a shght injury to her
rudder. Eain and wind continued -with unabated
violence aU day. Towards evening it cleared
a little, and Wasih and I went for a tramp
over the hiUs. In crossing a mountain
stream, swollen by the last thirty-six hours'
rain, I narrowly escaped being swept away,
but a lucky grasp at a tough bush saved me,
at any rate, a ducking. We saw no signs
of game. It rained and blew -vigorously aU
night. The packing in the barabbora was-
somewhat closer, if possible, than on the
simUar occasion when we were weather
bound at Kodiac ; however, -with a large
wood fire and such atmosphere as one
might expect to enjoy in a kitchen chimney,
we soon became comfortably smoke-dried.
In the morning it cleared, although the
wind did not drop, and we got the launch
on drift-pine tree rollers, intending to run
her do-wn at low tide and float her off; but

CHIGNICK BAY. 261
throughout the day the tide did not ebb
two feet.
As we were running short of fresh
meat, I stroUed off with the little twelve-
bore Grant and kiUed three brace of ptar
migan. In certain districts the hiUs and
moorlands here are alive with these birds.
Frequently, had not the search for larger
game occupied us, a couple of guns could
have kiUed thfrty or forty brace a day with
ease, and this without dogs. As it was, it
was only when we wanted a change of food
that we kiUed them, or when occasionally,
for the pleasure of handling the twelve-bore
after the heavy rifle, I used to let the
Creole carry it. for me and shoot a few birds
on the way back to camp.
An attempt to launch the heavy steam
launch with the strength at our command
would, considering the heavy sea that was
breaking on the shore, have been a risky
matter. S  , therefore, started for the
yacht in the cutter to send back more men.
I was weU lodged — indeed, I may say ex
ceedingly comfortable — in the barabbora,

262 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
and being un"vrilling to lose an opportunity
of obtaining sport, remained where I was,
intending, as it seemed likely to be fine, or
at any rate clear, to hunt through the
night. Vain hopes ! About half-past ten a
heavy fog obhged us to return to camp.
Next morning we were out early, but saw
nothing. At mid-day the carpenter and
nine men arrived ; the launch was got afloat,
and after a wet trip across the bay we
reached the yacht. After a couple more
days in the bay, during which time we shot
nothing but a few brace of ptarmigan, as
the weather showed no signs of marked
improvement, H  gave the word to start
for Ungar, and we left with a tolerably
correct impression of what the early days of
the Deluge must have resembled.

( 263 )

CHAPTEE XIV.
POET MOLLEE.
At Ungar we were to have dropped Wasili,
but the trading schooner he expected to
catch there has already left, so he continues
the trip "with us to Ounalaska, between which
port and Kodiac communication is more
frequent. Wasih smiles benignly and says,
" Goot " or " No goot," whichever is sug
gested to him.
We had seen the last of trees at Kodiac ;
in Chignick Bay there was nothing but
bush ; here the hUls are guiltless even of
that, and, but for the young grass (the
colour of which is quite a treat to us), would
be bleak and bare.
The barabboras that for the most part
compose the -viUage present a curious sight.

264 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
They are buUt and roofed of turf, and the
warmth of the fire inside has forced on thefr
exteriors luxuriant crops of grass, far in
advance of the surrounding vegetation.
The men of the vUlage are all away sea-
otter hunting. This unfortunate animal,
cursed as it is with the handsomest of aU
furs, knows no moment's peace. It is hunted
almost without intermission throughout the
year, and dogs, females, and pups are kiUed
indiscriminately. Many assured us that
their numbers were not decreasing, but
they based this assumption on the fact that
the annual number of skins obtained showed
no signs of diminution. Taking into con
sideration the increasing avidity "with which
it is pursued, the multiplying numbers of
its pursuers, and the extending field of thefr
operations, the average of skins ought reaUy
to be considerably augmented. When the
Eussians held the country sea-otters were
protected, and only a fixed number yearly
kUled. Now the case is different. No
animal has ever withstood, much less thriven
under, such persistent and systematic per-

PORT MOLLER. 265

secution, and unless it migrates entirely to
some less accessible coast the sea-otter "wiU
be exterminated. At present it is gro"wing
more shy, so that whereas formerly it was
hunted near land, the natives now have to
seek it twenty or thfrty miles out at sea.
At one time it was found as far south as
Cahfornia. From Ungar we proceeded to Port Moller,
the weather continuing delightful, as it had
been ever since we left Chignick Bay.
In the midst of breakfast one morning
Paul, in a great state of excitement, entered
the saloon.
" Please, Sir T  , there's mUHons of
bfrds aU round the ship for mUes and mUes
— aU the birds in the world, I think."
We finished breakfast, and then went on
deck. Certainly the sight was most extra
ordinary. The sea was calm as a mirror.
As far as the sight could reach in every
dfrection its surface was covered by myriads
of ducks. Nor did they seem in the least
degree frightened by the yacht's appearance,
merely scutthng away on either side from

266 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
imder the bows with a cry like that of a cat,
as we steamed at half-speed through them.
Seated on the water Hke frigates amidst
a fleet of canoes were a few albatrosses.
H  committed an albatrocity and shot
a couple of them, which were picked up by
the dingey. " And he had done a hellish thing.
And it would work us woe.
Ah ! wretch, we say, the bird to slay
That made the breeze to blow."
At Port MoUer we found a smaU schooner
engaged in walrus hunting. The captain
came on board, and very ci"villy assisted
our people in finding good anchorage. He
said they had shot three bears, and had
been all round the bay in search of wafrus
tusks, of which they had found twenty pairs.
We had hoped to find this place undis
turbed. It was somewhat disgusting, there
fore, to discover their old fires and tracks
aU over the country.
Soon after breakfast we aU went ashore
in the gig, preceded by the cutter with the
seine. The first haul produced, amongst a

PORT MOLLER. 267
few other fish, a fine chowichee salmon
{Salmo orientalis), the king of salmon and,
as a dehcacy, of all fish. It was as square
as a box, as handsome as a picture, and just
tm-ned the scales at thirty pounds. The
next haul brought three fish, twenty-five,
twenty-three and a haK, and fifteen pounds
respectively, all of the same species and in
equally fine condition.
I left H  and S  "with the net, and
went off on a long reconnaisance with the
Creole to gain some idea as to the lie of
the land. We returned late in the evening
without having seen any game, although
sufficient fresh tracks were visible in all
dfrections to prove that bears, untU within
the last day or so, had been very numerous
here. Eeindeer must also have frequented
these hills in great numbers at one time.
In traversing the country we saw scores
of magnificent antlers that had been shed
or broken off. They are in the habit of
migrating in vast herds from one district
to another, and thus it seldom occurs that
they are found in large numbers on the
same ground for two consecutive seasons.

268 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.

To me it is extraordinary that the in
habitants of Alaska have never tamed and
used the reindeer for domestic purposes.
Lack of fresh meat is the cause of frequent
complaint, and cattle, owing to the long
winters and the attention they require, wUl
always be more or less costly and scarce.
The natives are, however, cursed with in
tolerable indolence, and the energies of the
whites are so completely engrossed in fur
trading that they are content to grumble,
and there let the matter rest.
The seine, after we left, took six more
salmon, the largest of which was twenty-
seven pounds and a haK.
We had not tried night-hunting, and a
professed bear-hunter never dreams of look
ing for them here by day after the season
has once fafrly commenced. S  ¦ and I
agreed, therefore, the foUowing evening to
go in opposite directions, and remain out
until morning. We landed in different parts
of the bay about five o'clock. H  's
servant, Fritz, accompanied S  , the
Creole follo"wing my fortunes. Mist and

PORT MOLLER. 269

drizzling rain prevaUed throughout the
night. We walked untU the dark hours
(between haK-past eleven and two) obliged
us to rest, and during this time we watched
the beach, whither both bears and wolves
resort at night-time in search of food. At
half-past seven we met the boat, and re
turned to the yacht "without having seen
a head of game of any description.
S  returned soon afterwards jubUant.
They had kiUed one bear and seen another.
The first they discovered in the evening
upon the beach, feeding on uhkon, or candle-
fish, thrown up by the waves. So engrossed
was he in his occupation that, favoured by
the grass-gro-wn bank behind him, they
were able to creep up and overlook him at
about fifteen or twenty yards' distance.
S  wounded him, but he managed to
get off, and it took three more buUets to
finish him. They saw the second bear in
the morning, but whether he scented the
dead carcase of his feUow or caught sight
of them remained uncertain. At any rate,
as S  said, " suddenly he shied right

270 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
across the beach, and then bolted Hke a two-
year-old with the bit in his mouth. We
watched him for four miles, and he was
stUl going grandly, taking everything in his
stride."
, It was a lovely day. H  went off for
a cruise in the steam launch, to explore the
bay. In the evening I took one of the men
and, crossing to the opposite side of the bay,
spent the night out. We passed over a lot
of splendid country, but saw no game,
although there were numerous bear-tracks
along the beach. Curiously enough, on this
side of the bay ptarmigan were very
plentiful, but not a single reindeer's, antler
was to be seen ; whereas on the other shore
the case was exactly reversed. Probably
some slight difference in the vegetation
would account for this. During the day a
dead walrus floated into the bay on the
tide. H  went off ^in the steam launch
to secure it, and whilst doing so feU in with
seven more. The schooner we had met on
our arrival had probably faUen ui with a
herd further up the coast and killed them.

PORT MOLLER. 271
In the evening I went out again for the
night, accompanied by Mike. The last
night had been clear as day and soft as
summer; this, at the commencement, was
even more enjoyable. However, we did not
over-exert ourselves ; I had not slept lately,
and was consequently wiUing to take
matters easUy, a proposal that Mike gladly
seconded. At length, having seen nothing,
we sat down to watch the beach, and he
choose himself an exceedingly snug spot,
sheltered entirely from the breeze. When,
about three o'clock, I aroused him, he
awoke with a severe cold and an acute
touch of rheumatism. The wind had risen
and veered round entfrely, so that he ob
tained the fuU benefit of it. Moreover, he
had started overnight in a remarkably
picturesque but useless pair of thin em
broidered mocassins, which in a few minutes
had become saturated "with water. His feet
were consequently perished.
It took three quarters of an hour's hard
swearing to warm him. I expected each
moment to see a sulphurous nimbus en-

272 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
velop his brow, and a lambent flame play
around him. However, nothing of the sort
appeared ; so he must be a wonderful non
conductor, or perhaps it was the damp air
saved him. He concluded by saying that
" any one was welcome to his share of the
bears of Alaska, and the next time he heard
bear hunting in this country caUed sport,
he should divide the statement amongst
the company present, and take his share
in disbelieving it." Altogether Mike's
wrath was amusing.
Unfortunately the morning was obscured
by dense fog, and hunting was out of the
question. After waiting, therefore, untU
nearly six for it to clear off, we returned
along the shore to meet the boat. During
the walk I saw the most miraculous draught
of fish that I ever "witnessed. Shoals of
uhkon had come into the bay, and for over
a mile along the beach, each wave as it
broke turned over and threw up strugghng
myriads of smaU fish. So numerous were
they that the waves seemed more like
waves of fish than of water. Without

PORT MOLLER. 273
wetting my feet, I gathered a few double
handfuls, and fiUed my cartridge bag with
enough for breakfast. Had it been neces
sary, an unhmited number of barrels might
have been fiUed "with equal facihty. These
fish are so fat that when dried, if one end
be apphed to fire, they burn freely and give
forth an exceUent Hght. Hence their ordi
nary name of candle-fish. In delicacy of
flavour they far surpass the smelt, which,
however, they somewhat resemble both in
taste and appearance.
Soon after we returned, H  took the
Creole and Edlefsen, and started in the
steam launch on a voyage of exploration
in search of a good camping ground, for
Port Moller had not quite answered our
expectations. In the afternoon I went out in the
cutter on a sort of misceUaneous hunt,
with two rods and spoon baits over the
stern, and a gun and rifle in the boat.
Mike accompanied me. He was sceptical
about the possibihty of taking one of these
salmon "with a rod. Such a thing had never
VOL. n, T

274 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS
been achieved in all his experience in
Alaska, and he was so convinced that it was
not practicable that he solemnly said —
"By  , Sfr F  " (he persisted, I
know not why, in knighting me), "so sure
you catch salmon with rod, I give you leave
cook him on my stomach ; hght fire and
cook him — sure — now, that's sure,"
We commenced operations by bagging a
brace of ducks. Then Mike " lured me
on" to fire at a seal, and with the two
hundred yards' sight up I put a bullet into
its neck as it showed above water. It was
a lucky shot; in all probabUity I should
miss a great many times before I made it
again from a boat. As the seal did not
sink immediately we hauled it on board.
We next landed to stalk a couple of
swans on a smaU lake in shore, but could
not get within range. Eeturning, I got
three ducks and had four runs one after
another. The first, a fine fish, got off.
The second, twenty-two pounds and a half,
gave great sport, and nearly succeeded in
breaking me under the boat. The third.

PORT MOLLER. 275

a fish of fifteen pounds, was the gamest of
the lot. Five times he leaped from the
water, and time after time, when I thought
I had him settled, he ran out line again
as K it was his first rush. However, with
strong tackle and a vigorous apphcation
of the "butt," he was eventuaUy brought
to reason. The fourth just turned the
scale at nineteen pounds ; he also -fought
well, and took some time to kiU. Mike,
in a state of great excitement, gaffed them
all in grand style. He forgot the penalty
he had voluntarily incurred, until the
French cook, who had heard him and was
on the look-out for his return, met him as
he came on deck "vpith —
"Hey, Monsieur Mike, weech feesh shall
I have ze honour to cook upon your
estomac ? "
H  did not return untU after twelve
o'clock. He had found another bay not
marked in the chart, and had seen in one
place eleven bears, some of them enormous.
He and the Creole had killed a terrific brute.
Two men proved insufficient to bring the

276 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
skfri down to the launch, and it had been
left therefore for another day.* As they were
coming away, Edlefsen had fired two or
three shots at a couple of bears down on the
shore, "thinking it necessary just to call
their attention." Apparently thefr atten
tion had been directed to the matter, for
when, on the foUowing evening, we landed
to camp upon the same spot, not one of the
eleven was there to receive us. The Creole
explained such an assemblage of bears by
saying that it was the season of courtship,
and .the vegetation in this neighbourhood
was the richest and most advanced of any
we had yet seen.
On the morning after our arrival, we
were abroad early, but saw nothing. In
the afternoon H  took the Creole and
went for a cruise along the shore in the
steam launch. At some distance from camp
WasUi saw a bear lying down on the hUl
side. They landed, and stalking it carefuUy,
* I regret that the only measurement taken of this
bear was the circumference of the right fore-arm. This,
after the shin was removed, measured twenty-nine inches.

PORT MOLLER. 277

got "within thfrty yards before Bruin became
aware of their presence. Then he rose and
stood for a second stupidly staring at H  ,
who dropped him stone dead with an explo
sive buUet from one of our Westley-Eichards
500-bores. The buUet penetrated the centre
of the forehead and shattered the skull.
They returned with the skin, a remarkably
handsome one, in perfect condition.
Heavy fog obhged us to remain in camp
that evening. I had been out so frequently
-without seeing a head of game, that with
the superstition of his race the Creole began
to look upon me as under an unlucky charm.
"I was fighting against God," he said.
" We had been out day after day and not
even seen anything. I was unlucky, and
might walk for another three months without
seeing anything. H  , on the other hand,
had a charm for seeing bears. Twice only
had he been out with him, and on each
occasion they had kUled a bear. In short,
he was convinced that it was no use for
me to go out at aU, as God did not mean
me to kUl His bears ; " and he manifested

278 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.

a marked disinchnation to accompany me
any further. His faith in this behef was,
I imagine, strengthened by the fact that
I was apt to walk rather more than he
appreciated. Wasih had evidently a time-
honoured custom of discussing a pipe or
two or three cigarettes on the top of every
hiU he surmounted. As I, to avoid tempta
tion, never carried tobacco, and very rarely
had recourse to his pouch and papers, we
were opposed on this most important point.
The following morning, therefore, I left
him in camp,' and started before three
o'clock with Fritz, determined, as it was
our last chance but one, to make a long
day of it. When a morning is fine in
Alaska, it is difficult to match. Little can
surpass the crystal clearness and rich colour
in all the distances of its highland scenery,
or the crisp exhilarating freshness of the
morning air. With a sense of vigorous
health you start away over the pUed mosses,
devoid of all . care, revelHng in the un-
trammeUed freedom of outdoor hfe, and
drinking in the wild beauty of everything

PORT MOLLER. 279

around you. There are rich brown hills,
shot with every tone from yellow to ruddy
crimson, and in their furrows and rifts is
a tinge of briUiant green borrowed from the
new-born grass. There are purple monarchs,
snow-mantled, in the distance, and farther
stiU, "wrapped in clouds like some myste
rious magician amongst mountains, looms
upwards the hoary summit of a giant vol
cano. There is blue in the bay, specked
"with white birds, and blue in the sky above,
where the golden eagle or his white-headed
pfr-ate cousin cfrcles and saUs majesticaUy
soaring. But not a tree breaks the lone
expanse of colour — not even Heine's lonely
pine tree on bleak height, dreaming, beneath
ice and snow, of the sorrow-bowed palm
alone on the glowing precipice in the far-off
land of the sun. Bush there is in plenty,
but no trees, nor do you miss them. Give
me fine weather and Alaska to hunt in, and
I wiU not en"vy you a paradise with all its
summer palaces and houris. Musically
the tiny waves of a calm sea broke and
murmured along the deserted shore ; music-

280 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
aUy the cry of the startled ptarmigan
sounded on the moorland as the bronze-and-
white bird, his summer plumage yet uncom
pleted, sped away over the purple knoUs
and hillocks at our approach. " Green-
kfrtled spring " had come at last —
" And each flower and herb on earth's dark breast
Eose from the dreams of its wintry rest."
Wild flowers enamelled aU the country side ;
at every step we trampled —
" Over the violets there that lie
In myriad types of the human eye,"
For the hiUs were covered -vrith them. A
cross fox (half silver, haK red) sprang up,
and at fifty yards turned suspiciously to
examine us. I was sorry afterwards that
I did not avail myself of the chance thus
offered, but between scruples about com
mitting vulpecide and a desfre not to disturb
the country by firing at such smaU game,
Eeynard escaped scot-free.
For the next four or five mUes we saw
nothing ; then, whUst crossing a plain,
three reindeer couchant got up about three
hundred yards ahead of us. After a good

PORT MOLLER. 281

deal of scrutiny and indecision, approach
ing, retiring, halting, and returning, etc. —
for possibly we were the first men they had
ever seen — they decided against us, and
made for a vaUey some distance off. When
they were out of sight we foUowed, but
subsequently, finding that they were stUl
mo"ving, gave up the chase.
Soon after this I discovered a bear, some
way up on a hiUside. Another and another
came in sight, issuing from a patch of bush.
It was a fine she bear, "vrith a couple of well-
grown cubs (judged afterwards by the Creole
to be) a year and ten months or two years
old. Slowly feeding, they advanced do"vm
the hiUside, and as in doing so they
approached more favourable ground for
stalking, we waited and watched them.
From time to time the old lady gave vent
to a cry which was something between a
snarl and the lo"wing of a cow. At length
they halted, and the cubs lay down. We
stalked up to them, and, favoured by a
furrow in the hiU, got "within forty yards.
The old bear was stUl standing. I fired.

282 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
The first cartridge missed fire, but the
second took effect behind the left shoulder —
a httle too far back, and the buUet (a -600
Westley-Eichard's explosive) smashing up,
created fearful havoc. A smaU piece of it
penetrated the heart, whUst the Hver and
other parts were completely annihUated.
With a growl, she turned, and seizing one
of her cubs, shook it severely ; but almost
immediately she staggered a few yards away,
stood for a second stUl, and then roUed over.
Bears have no "show" against these ex
press rifies. Fritz, just before she dropped,
put a bullet into the lower part of the
neck, which passed out, grazing the shoulder-
blade. The cubs aUowed themselves to be
shot down Hke sheep.
After this, although we walked far, the
only game we saw was a large grey woK,
who, seated on a hiUside, amused himseK
by baying " aU the time." Needless to say,
he objected to anything nearer than a bark
ing acquaintance. As the day wore on, the
weather clouded over, and wind, heavy mist,
and rain set hi. On our return, we saw the

PORT MOLLER. 283

launch driven back, having failed in an
attempt to cross the bay with H  and
Wasih, who were bent on repeating their
yesterday's performance.
Soon after we had left in the morning, a
grand old bear had stroUed down from the
hUls to -within two or three hundred yards
of the camp. H^ — - — had gone after it.
Unfortunately the man who carried his rifie
lagged somewhat behind, and he came sud
denly upon the bear — which was moving in
some bush — without other weapon than one
boot that he had just put on when the bear
first appeared. Fortunately for him the
brute bolted, as they most frequently wiU
unless wounded. In the evening the
weather was too foul to hunt. At four next
morning I went with some men in the
launch to bring away my skins of the pre-
-vious day, together with the carcases of the
cubs. Later on in the season, when the
bears have fed plentKuUy on fish,* their
* When once the salmon begin to ascend the rivers,
the bears frequent the banks, and entering the water
scoop the fish out on to the banks with their paws. So
numerous are the salmon that this is not difficult.

284 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
flesh has a rank, unpleasant flavour, but at
this early stage in the year it is by no
means bad, and is at any rate preferable to
preserved meat. The paws, especiaUy of a
young bear, are by no means to be despised.
We were just enabled to reach camp before
a regular sample of Alaska weather came
on. As it partiaUy cleared in the afternoon,
H  went for a cruise in the launch, but
it took them so long to cross the bay that
they had only time to land and procure a
few guUs' eggs before they were forced to
return— wet through, of course. GuUs'
eggs, although a trifle too strongly flavoured
to be eaten alone, serve nevertheless very
weU for cooking purposes. Most of these
particular eggs proved to be nearly hatched,
and by most people would have been unhesi
tatingly declared bad. Wasih was troubled
by no such dafrity scruples. He boUed and
ate them -with gusto, sayuig that, so far
from considermg them bad, he thought they
were preferable to fresh eggs, inasmuch as
they were more substantial.
Disgusting as it was to remain idle in the

PORT MOLLER. 285

midst of a fine game country, we were
nevertheless obhged to, for the evening was
too foul and foggy to do anything. We
turned in early, therefore, intending to start
next morning for the yacht. Our plans
were modified by circumstances, and we
passed the next day and night in true Chig
nick Bay style. Towards two o'clock in the
morning it cleared shghtly, and by four we
made a successful attempt to get off.
In the cutter we soon set a double-reefed
lugsaU, and casting loose from the launch,
which also had a saU up to steady her, we,
although carrying the five skins, a quantity
of meat, and aU the luggage, rapidly left
her astern, and ran the distance to the yacht
— twenty-one mUes — in a heavy sea in one
hour and fifty-five minutes. During the
trip we got out of our course, and amongst
some big curly white-topped breakers on a
sand-bank. Matters at one time looked
very tickhsh indeed; it would have been
an appropriate occasion to " take up a col
lection," had it occurred to any one. You
know that tale, don't you ? No ? Well,

286 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
three Yankees in a canoe were drifting to
wards some dangerous rapids into which
they had been drawn. "Can either of ye
say a prayer ? " inquired one of them
gloomily. "No, they didn't go much on
prayers." "Wal, p'r'aps one of ye knows
a hymn ? " " No." " Couldn't whistle the
tune of one, maybe?" "No." "Wal,
ef neither of ye knows a prayer, and ye
can't either of ye sing a hymn, we must
do something sacerdotal ; so I guess I'd
better take up a coUection. Thar's my
doUar." We did not require to take up
a collection, for fortunately the cutter —
one of H  's new whaleboats built at
San Francisco — was a splendid sea-boat,
and vdth a Httle luck and a good deal of
sea-water we scraped through safely. The
launch, steering a better course, avoided
the sand-bank, and reached the yacht three
quarters of an hour after we did.
In the afternoon the wind dropped, and
H  and I tried spoon-baits in the bay.
We got seven good salmon, the smallest
twelve, the largest twenty-six and a half

PORT MOLLER. 287

pounds. H  went out again after dinner
with the seine, and in a few hauls they more
than half filled the gig with herrings. Next
morning we quitted Port MoUer, en route
for St. Paul's, one of the Pryvloff Islands.

288 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.

CHAPTEE XV.
THE SEAL ISLANDS.
The unusual protraction of winter had
proved fatal to our chances of sport during
the earher part of our "visit. Under ordi
nary cfrcumstances our arrival in Alaska
would have been weU timed ; as it was, we
were at least a month too early, and during
that time kUled nothing but a few birds.
June was now dra-wing to a close. Between
the 10th and 15th of the foUowing month
H  had promised to be again in San Fran
cisco and join the yacht club in thefr annual
trip to Monterey. Sufficient time just re
mained, therefore, to visit St. Paul's Island
and complete the return voyage. It is from
the Pryvloff Islands, whither we now went,
that the main supply of sealskins is ob-

THE SEAL ISLANDS. 289
tained. A few (and that few, owing to indis
criminate slaughter, annually decreasing)
are found in the Magellan Straits and the
-vicinity of the Falkland Islands ; a few are
taken about the Kurile Islands ; about
thirty thousand are yearly captured on the
Behring and Copper Islands ; the rest, a
hundred thousand in number, come from
the Pryvloff Islands, or seventy to eighty
thousand from St. Paul's, and the balance
from St. George's.
We reached St. Paul's in the early morn
ing. The island is utterly devoid of trees,
destitute even of bush or scrub, and alto
gether as bare and dismal a spot as ever
fell to the lot of man to inhabit.
There are few places on the globe where
summer does not exhibit some of those
welcome features we are accustomed to
associate "vrith its presence. The Pryvloff
Islands summer seems, however, to have
struck entirely off her visiting list. They are
banished from the world. Such bond of
union as there may be in kno"wing that the
same sun shines on them that shines on
VOL. II. U

290 ' WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.

other people, is almost denied to their in
habitants ; for only at rare intervals does a
ray of sunlight pierce the heavy canopy of
clouds and reach them. At long intervals
ships come up out of the sea and break in
upon the dreary solitude of the islanders ;
they pass away again, as it were, into an
outer world, and are lost behind the curtain
of fog which, after the fashion of' prison
walls, surrounds this desolate spot. Here
it is, however, that the fur seal takes up his
quarters for half the year. To him sunHght
and warmth mean death, whilst a climate
of continual fog perfects his happiness.
Soon after breakfast we were -visited by
Colonel Otis (commandant of the island),
and later on returned with him on shore.
After a visit to the Alaska Company's
quarters, where we partook of lunch, the
colonel and General Scrivner (commandant
of St. George's) took us to see some of the
nearest rookeries. I am indebted to the
latter gentleman, who has passed much
time in observing the seals and noting
their habits, for some interesting facts.

THE SEAL ISLANDS. 291
Fur seals begin to arrive here about the
end of May, and quit about the end of
October; the rookeries are not properly
fiUed until the latter end of July or com
mencement of August ; and it is then com
puted that there are between two and three
mUlion seals on the island. Many theories
have been started to account for their dis
appearance during the remainder of the
year, but all are more or less hypothetical.
One of the most probable conjectures seems
to be that they scatter and pass the winter
in the open sea. The bulls reach the island
a few days in advance of the cows, and take
up their quarters on the rocky shores, where
they await the arrival of the ladies, and as
they appear select, and K necessary fight,
for them. It frequently happens that two
rival suitors seize upon a cow at the same
moment, each attempting to convey her to
his o-wn harem, and a struggle ensues, in
which the unfortunate object of their affec
tions is fearfully torn and lacerated. For
cible abduction of a neighbour's wife is also
a by no means uncommon crime. Females

292 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
sometimes exhibit a natural preference in
favour of certain males, although, as a rule,
they are passively indifferent. A harem
may consist of from two or three to two or
three and twenty cows, and the lords who
are the happy possessors of so much young
affection are exceedingly jealous in guarding
it. The old bulls are very quarrelsome, and
are constantly engaged in fighting with one
another, an encroachment of a few inches
on the space they and thefr- famUies occupy
being sufficient excuse for a fierce encounter.
There is a great disproportion in the rela
tive sizes of the two sexes ; buUs when well
grown wUl weigh eight hundred pounds,
exceeding by three or four times the size of
their partners. The former, when young,
appear jet black, and are remarkably hand
some ; with increasing age their colour
changes to a dfrty yellow or grey, and the
mane becomes more developed. The latter
are dark grey, merging into yeUo-wish brown
on the breast and belly. Young bachelors
of thi-ee or four years old are not permitted
to approach the rookeries or consort with

THE SEAL ISLANDS. 293
the opposite sex ; but towards the close of
the season, when the old males leave, they
avail themselves of the opportunity thus
afforded to enjoy a Httle female society.
From the time of their arrival untU the
date of their departure, the old bulls do not
enter the water, nor, until the season is
well advanced and, the object of their visit
being effected, discipline is somewhat re
laxed, do they permit the ladies of their
harems to do so either. They exist, there
fore, without food during the greater part of
six months, and consequently it is not to
be wondered at that, despite the exceUent
condition in which they arrive, this fact,
coupled with the constant fighting and the
anxiety and wear and tear of married life,
reduces them almost to skeletons before
they depart. It is supposed that they feed
on fish, but hitherto nothing has ever been
discovered in the stomach of a seal opened
at the Pryvloff Islands.
Owing to the difficulty of identifying
and distinguishing one from another, it is
a slow and uncertain matter to arrive at

294 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
just conclusions with regard to their habits
and pecuHarities. Latterly they have been
marked, and it has thus been discovered
that they are liable, if in ensuing seasons
they again come under notice, to appear
at different rookeries, or even at the other
island (St. George's).
The rookeries are well worth a visit. In
no other part of the world is such ai, sight
to be seen. They cover a large extent of
coast. Thousands upon thousands — to be
more correct, I should say tens upon tens
of thousands of seals He packed so close
together that every available foot of ground
is occupied. Fighting and strugghng, rest
less and shifting, bellowing- and snarling,
or prone and slumbering, these dense crowds
of animals present a most extraordinary and
interesting spectacle. FamUy after famUy,
each encircling^the lordly and ever-watch
ful bull, are collected together in countless
numbers. The air is fiUed with their sickly
odour, and resounds with thefr ceaseless
cries, until the coUective din of a thousand
cattle fairs would by comparison with it be
a blessed relief.

THE SEAL ISLANDS. 295
On the following day, under the guidance
of Mr. M'Intyre, we were enabled to witness
the mode of killing them. The right of seal
kiUing on these islands has been granted by
the United States Government exclusively
to the Alaska Fur Trading Company. In
their lease the annual " kill " is restricted to
one hundred thousand, which are chosen
entfrely from young buUs between the ages
of two and five. The old bulls and females
are never disturbed. Seals foUow one another
like a flock of sheep. A couple of Aleuts,
therefore, by getting between them and the
sea, experience no difficulty in slowly
driving a band of three or four hundred into
the interior of the island. To do this suc
cessfully the weather must, however, be
damp and cold; in anything like heat or
sunHght they drop and die by the way very
rapidly, and the skins of these seals are
worthless. The driving is now generally
performed by night, so that the loss incurred
is slight. Arrived at the Golgotha, squads
of about twenty are separated from the niain
body, and, with the exception of those re-

296 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
jected by the experts as too old or young,
are kUled with a club about four feet long.
One blow usually suffices, for the cranium
is remarkably thin.
It is curious to notice with what per
sistency a youngster that has been driven
away will sometimes return, and, scrambling
over the dead bodies of his companions,
attempt to remain. There he will He
snapping at the clubs that would thrust
him away, and snarhng defiance, as though
scorning to escape. The club men are fol
lowed by another gang of Aleuts, who plunge
their knives into the seal's heart, rip up
the belly, and make an incision round the
head, fore and hind flippers. They in turn
are succeeded by yet another set, armed
with longer and keener blades, which from
time to time they touch upon smaU hones
slung round their necks. These complete
the work, and with a few rapid strokes
remove the skin. There is said to be an
Aleut at St. George's who can skin three
seals in 2 min. 40 sec.
The skins are now buried for seven days in

THE SEAL ISLANDS. 297
heaps of salt, then packed and sent to San
Francisco. There they are repacked before
being forwarded to London, where they are
dressed, shaved, and dyed. Lately an inge
nious machine has been invented to facilitate
the process of sha"ving. By its aid the skin is
pared away until the roots of the long hairs
that form the external covering of the seal
are cut. They are then simply brushed off
and faU out, while the much-prized fur,
which adheres almost to the surface, re
mains uninjured.
Every precaution is taken on the islands
to avoid frightening or in any way disturbing
the seals. On this account no dogs or other
animals, with the exception of a few horses,
etc., are admitted. The sound of a gun is
never heard during the breeding season, and
the rookeries are rarely approached. During
the last few years seals have been captured
in the Juan de Fuca Straits, and their
pursuit in this direction is rapidly assuming
importance. The seals here taken are said
to be almost all females, and in most in
stances to contain young. It is supposed

298 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.

that they are intercepted on their way to
the Pryvloff Islands.
After being skinned the carcases of the
seals are left upon the ground to decompose.
This, as they consist chiefly of blubber, they
do very rapidly, and "without gi"ving rise to
any very powerful odour. Trying out oU
from the blubber has been attempted, but
was found unremunerative. The company
pay the Aleuts, who are the native inhabi
tants of the islands, forty cents for each
skin. They also pay a tax of $2 62|-c. to
Government on each pelt. Last season,
owing probably to the succession of hard
winters, the company's sealskins, when sold
by auction in London, averaged seventeen
dollars apiece. Fifteen dollars is the average
price. It wiU be seen, therefore, that even after
deducting salaries and other expenses, a
fine margin remains for profit. From the
foregoing estimates, which are as nearly
correct as possible in round numbers, the
reader may also form some conclusion as
to the comparatively small proportion of

THE SEAL ISLANDS. 299

genuine sealskins there can be amongst
the enormous mass of jackets and pelisses
that under that denomination fill the streets
of Europe and America in winter time.
The number of sealskins procured annually
does not exceed one hundred and sixty
thousand. Allowing as a very moderate
computation five skins to make a jacket,
this only gives thirty- two thousand jackets
a year, without making any deduction for
the host of minor articles that are made of
sealskin. Again, five skins simply salted at,
say, fifteen doUars apiece, wUl cost seventy-
five doUars, or £16. They have then to be
shaved, dressed, dyed, and made up, for
which we may add at least another £7 10s.
It will thus be seen that a small sealskin
jacket must at the lowest possible price
cost £22 10s. Yet we see philanthropic
shopkeepers selHng them at £10 and £15.
There must be a great mortahty amongst
cats somewhere or other.
The seal kiUing over, we lunched at the
Alaska Company's mess, and in the course
of the meal partook for the first time of the

300 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
flesh of the pup seal. Whether the tra
ditional fishy flavour of seals had been
eliminated in preparation, or whether it be
solely an attribute of age, I am unable to
declare. Certain it was that in the seal I
tasted no vestige of it was present. The
flesh, disagreeable only inasmuch as it was
almost black in colour, bore some affinity
in taste to beef or mutton ; it was, in fact,
a something between the two.
In the evening we weighed anchor, and
started for Ounalaska Island, en route for San
Francisco. Ounalaska is the head-quarters
of the Alaska Fur Trading Company. Here
we encountered former acquaintances from
Kodiac. It was with grief we learnt from
them that the new priest, who, when we
were there, was "straightening out" his
congregation "with so much energy, had
himself shpped from the tight-rope of
propriety. It appeared that he had invited
a member of the white community to his
house for a little amicable rehgious contro
versy. A long and animated discussion at
length terminated in both the theological

THE SEAL ISLANDS. 301
disputants becoming very screwed on the
sacramental port wine. Holy Eussia's dis
ciple did penance for a week afterwards ; but
his antagonist, having recovered from his
" head " next morning, was anxious to know
when the priest would be ready to "go
ahead " again and give him some more
instruction. He said he was prepared to
be converted "a lot ; " in fact, he " thirsted
after righteousness," and approved highly
of what he called " that suction dogma " of
the Greek Church. As to being converted,
well, he guessed he had some scruples that
would last as long as the port wine ; but he
would give the priest a fair show any way,
and engage to see him to bed after each
meeting. We parted with Wasih at Ounalaska,
and also with the "Boss," a pup of "Lady's,"
the spaniel I had bought at Nonaimo,
Wasili had become quite one of the ship's
company. To the men he was a sort of
parrot, and they taught him to talk,
SaUors' parrots are not as a rule courteous,
holy, or decorously chaste in their conversa-

302 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
tion. Wasih was no exception to the rule.
His vocabulary contained much that was far
from pretty. However, he was not aware
of this, and he brought out the most ear-
tingling expressions with a face of the
utmost gravity and solemnity. He left the
yacht, which was moored to the wharf, a
few minutes before we started, bearing with
him his bundle, a rifle, revolver, and other
presents he had received on board. He was
smoking like a chimney as usual, aind as he
sat down on a log of wood -with his back to
us, a small column of blue smoke curled
over his shoulder. What his frame of mind
was, I know not ; he was either sulky or
sorry. His position reminded me of a
Skye terrier I once had. If any one whom
he considered he had a right to follow went
out for a walk and refrised to take him,
" Eags " would retire under the haU table,
and, "with his back to the front door, sit with
drooping head and humped back, the very
picture of sulky disgust, for about two hours.
Wasili looked very like " Eags." The yacht
was unmoored, she was moving off —

THE SEAL ISLANDS. 303
" Wasili ! no good, eh ? No good ! "
He jumped up and looked round, waved
his cap with the broadest of smiles. " No
goot, God d  n — you comin' back,
pleenty midvit (bears) find. No goot, God
d — — n — blast," etc.
Since I have returned to England, I
have received a letter from Stauf, of which
the foUowing is an extract : —
" WasUi is always talking about you and
your friends on board the Lancashire Witch.
He is very grateful to you all ; he thinks
you were so good to him, and he is very
proud of the presents he received. He
says he always heard from Eussians that
Americans were bad, but that Englishmen
were far tuorse (with great emphasis on the
last two words). However, he no longer
beUeves that. He calls himself a gentle
man, and carries his head very high ; he
-wiU hardly look at his fellow- villagers, and
if you ask him what countryman he is, he
answers immediately, ' I EngUshman.' It
is very amusing to hear him teU how he
was treated on board the yacht; how, before

304 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
every meal, a servant gave him his whiskey ;
how he slept upon velvet, and had a servant
to make his bed for him," etc. (WasUi, as
there were no vacant cabins_Qr. berths, used
"to-sleep on the velvet-covered seats in the
after saloon, which explains his " sleeping
on velvet.")
In his brothers' viUage, the secluded and
pretty httle hamlet of Ozinki, Wasih for
ever hence wiU be the oracle. He is a
great traveller, and if he choose to assert
that he has journeyed " beyond the Kaf
and into the land of the Afritts," who shall
gainsay him ? In the long winter evenings,
when the viUagers pucker round the stove,
and Wasih, with sententious pauses and
superior wisdom, tells of the velvet beds, the
whiskey, the piano, the rifles, the rods, the
"samovar" boat, the hippopotamus skulls,
the monkey, the swinging tables, and the
comfortable interior of the ship that be
longed to the great Enghsh "barin" with
whom he travelled, he will be reverenced
as Mahomet after his visit to heaven.
Well, weU, good bye, old feUow ; we have
had many a pleasant tramp together.

THE SEAL ISLANDS. 305
And now we head fairly southward to
San Francisco.
" Hurrah ! hurrah ! the wind is up, it bloweth fresh
and free.
And every cord, instinct with Ufe, pipes loud its fear
less glee ;
Big swell the bosomed sails with joy, and they
madly kiss the spray
As proudly through the foaming surge the Sea King
bears away."
Not a sea king, perhaps, but a veritable sea
queen, and one that in eighteen months of
cruising, taking rough and smooth as it
came, without fear or favour, has never
shown a weak point from truck to keel.
The Golden Gates are in view again, San
Francisco is at hand ; and here, gentle reader,
our companionship comes to a close. Gentle
you must be K you have gently followed mo
thus far without — "without indulging in
expletives. However, your long-suffering is
at an end. May we meet again, but if we do,
may our positions be reversed, so that you
"wield the pen and I the knife. If I have
wearied you I am sorry, and most heartUy
do I forgive you, although De Eochefoucauld
VOL. II. X

306 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
says that the one thing we can never
pardon people is being bored by us. The
proper thing to say now is, I beheve, that if
in the perusal of the foregoing pages the
reader has found the shghtest amusement
or pleasure, my sole end will have been
fuUy accomplished, and my trouble amply
repaid. I wUl not pay you so .poor a
compliment. That sort of thing is exceed
ingly pretty and polite, but, as they say in
California, it is "a httle too thin " for these
times. Can I go without a word for " Tip,"
whose gaiety has lent so many hours wings ?
Impossible ! My dear Tip, in . memory of
that night spent at Chignick Bay, when
you clung on to the tent-pole and solemnly
cursed the tent-pegs, the wind, and the
whole of the northern hemisphere, "here's
a double health to thee."
The same to H-  , who, whenever there
was a good beat to be hunted over, or- a
chance of unusual amusement of any kind
which admitted of only one or two enjoying

THE SEAL ISLANDS. 307
it, invariably insisted, " One of you feUows
go ; I'U go another way, or try something
else." Without such exercise of good
nature a yachting cruise would be unbear
able ; it is the Httle leaven which leaveneth
the whole, and with it H  was always
ready. One thing more and I have done. In
glancing over these pages, I note a far too
frequent application of that insidious httle
pronoun, "I." "I" really should not as
sume so prominent a position. The fact is,
though, reader, that without more ex
perience than " I " possesses, it is rather
difficult, in a chronicle of this kind, to avoid
adopting this style of relation. Please
accept, therefore, " I's " apologies for so
much self-assertion.
And so fareweU, reader and owner, mess
mate and crew.
"Heave the type, printer."
" And a quarter seven."
" Eight for 'ard there ? "
" Aye, aye."

308 WAR, WAVES, AND WANDERINGS.
"Let go, then."
And here we come to an

' Hart stoszt es auf am Strande
Man trennt sich in die Lande
' Wann treffen wir uns Briider
Auf einem Schifflein wieder ? ' "

THE END.

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¦ A Strange Friendship. Crown Svo, cloth, sj.
Eve of Saint Agnes (The). By John Keats. Illustrated with
Nineteen Etchings by Charles O. MuHkay. Folio, cloth extra, 2ij-.
An Edition de Luxe on large paper, contaimng proof impressions, has
been printed, and specially bound, 3/. 3J.
pARM Ballads. By Will Carleton. Boards, ij. : cloth
•'¦ gilt edges, is. 6d. '
Fern Paradise (The) : A Plea for the Culture of Ferns. By
F. G. Heath. New Edition, entirely Rewritten, Illustrated with
Eighteen full-page, numerous other Woodcuts, including 8 Plates of
Ferns and Four Photographs, large post Svo, cloth, gilt edges, xzs. 6d.
Sixth Edition. In 12 Parts, sewn, is. each.

List of Publications.

Fern World (The). By F. G. Heath. Illusti-ated by Twelve
Coloured Plates, giving complete Figures (Sixty-four in all) of every
Species of British Fern, printed from Nature ; by several full-page
.Engravings. Cloth, gilt,. 6th Edition, 12^-. 6d.
" Mr. Heath has really given us good, well-written descriptions of our native
Ferns, with indications^ of their habitats, the conditions under which they grow
naturally, and under which they may be cultivated." — Athenasum.
Few (A) flints on Proving Wills. Enlarged Edition, is.
First Steps in Conversational French Grammar. By F. Julien.
Being an Introduction to " Petites Legons de Conversation et de
Grammaiie," by the same Author. Fcap. Svo, 128 pp., is.
Flooding of the Sahara (The). See Mackenzie.
Food for the People ; or, Lentils and other Vegetable Cookery.
By E. E. Orlebar. Third Thousand. Small post Svo, boards, is.
Foots Errand (A). By One of the Fools. Author of Bricks
without Straw. Crown Svo, cloth extra, with numerous Illustrations,
Ss. 6d.
Footsteps of the Master. See Stowe (Mrs. Beecher).
Forbidden Land (A) : Voyages to the Corea. By G. Oppert.
Numerous Illustrations and Maps. Demy Svo, cloth extra, 21s.
Four Lectures on Electric Induction. Delivered at the Royal
Institution, 187S-9. By J. E. H. Gordon, B.A. Cantab. With
numerous Illustrations. Cloth limp, square l6mo, 3^.
Foreign Countries and the British Colonies. Edited by F. S.
Pulling, M.A., Lecturer at Queen's College, Oxford, and formerly
Professor at the Yorkshire College, Leeds. A Series -of small Volumes
descriptive of the principal Countries of the World by well-known
Authors, each Country being treated of by a Writer who from
Personal Knowledge is qualified to speak with authority on the Subject.
The Volumes average 180 crown Svo pages each, contain 2 Maps
and Illustrations, crown Svo, y. 6d.
The following is a List of the Volumes : —
Denmark and Iceland. By E. C. Otte, Author of " Scandinavian
History," &c.
Greece. By L. Sergeant, B.A., Knight of the Hellenic Order
of the Saviour, Author of " New Greece."
Switzerland. By W. A. P. Coolidge, M.A., Fellow of
Magdalen College, Editor of The Alpine Journal.
Austria. By D. Kay, F.R.G.S. ^ ,
Eussia. By W. R. Morfill, M.A., Oriel College, Oxford,
Lecturer on the Ilchester Foundation, &c.
Persia. By Major-Gen. Sir F.J. GoLDSMiD, K.C.S.I., Author of
" Telegraph and Travel," &c.
Japan. By S. MossMAN, Author of " New Japan, &c.
Peru. By Clements H. Markham, M.A., CB.
Canada. By W. Eraser Rae, Author of "Westward by
Rail," &c.

IO Sampson-Low, Marston, df Go's
Foreign Countries (continued): — -
Sweden aud Norway. By the Rev. F. H. Woods, M.A., Fellow
of St. John's College, Oxford.
The West Indies. By C. H. Eden, F.R.G.S., Author of " Frozen
Asia," &c.
ITew Zealand.
France. By Miss M. Roberts, Author of " The Atelier du Lys,"
"Mdlle. Mori," &c.
Egypt. By S. Lane Poole, B.A., Author of " The Life of Edward
Lane," &c.
Spain. By the Rev. Wentworth Webster, M.A., Chaplain at
St. Jean de Luz.
Turkey-iu-Asia. By J. C. McCoAN, M.P.
Australia. By J. F. Vesey Fitzgerald, late Premier of New
South Wales.
Holland. By R. L. Poole.
Franc (Maude Jeane). The following form one Series, small
post Svo, in uniform cloth bindings, with gilt edges: —
' Emily's Clioice. ^s.
 Hall's Vineyard. 41.
 John's Wife : a Story of Life in South Australia. 4X.
 Marian ; or, the Light of Same On£s Home. t,s.
 Silken Cords and Iron Fetters. ^.
 Vermont Vale. ^s.
 Minnie's Mission. 4^,
 Little Mercy, ^s.
—  Beatrice Melton's Discipline. 4^.
Froissart (J'he Boy's). . Selected from the Chronicles of Eng
land, France, Spain, &c. By Sidney Lanier. The Volume is
fully Illustrated, and uniform with ' ' The Boy's King Arthur. " Crown
Svo, cloth, 7j. 6d.
r^AMES of Patience. &« Cadogan.
Gentle Life (Queen Edition). 2 vols, in i, small 4to, loj. td.
THE GENTLE LIFE SERIES.
Price 6s. each j or in calf extra, price ioj. 6d. ; Smaller Edition, cloth
extra, 2s. 6d.
A Reprint (with the exception of " Famihar Words " and "Other
People's Windows ") has been issued in very neat limp doth bindings
at 2s. 6d. each.
The Gentle Life. Essays in aid of the Formation pf Character
of Gentlemen and Gentlewomen. 21st Edition.
S " Deserves to be printed in letters of gold, and circulated in every house."—
Chambers' jfoumal.

List of Publications.

The Gentle Life Series (continued) : —
About in the World. Essays by Author of " The Gentle Life."
" Tt is not easy to open it at any page without linding some handy idea.**— Morn
ing Post.
Like unto Christ. A New Translation of Thomas a Kempis'
"De Imitatione Christi." 2nd Edition.
*' Could not be presented in a more exquisite form, for a more sightly volume was
never seen." — Illitstrated London News.
Familiar Words. An Index Verborum, or Quotation Hand
book. Affording an immediate Reference to Phrases and Sentences
that have become embedded in the English language. 4th and
enlarged Edition. 6s.
"The most extensive dictionary of quotation we have met with." — Notes and
Queries.
Essays by Montaigne. Edited and Annotated by the Author
of "The Gentle Life.'' With Portrait. 2nd Edition.
" We should be glad if any words of ours could help to bespeak a large circula
tion for this handsome attractive book." — Illustrated Times.
The Countess of Pembroke's Arcadia. Written by Sir Philip
Sidney. Edited with Notes by Author of " The Gentle Life." Is. 6d.
"All the best things are retained intact in Mr. Friswell's edition." — Examiner.
The Gentle Life. 2nd Series, 8th Edition.
" There is not a single thought in the volume that does not contribute in some
measure to the formation of a true gentleman." — Daily News.
The Silent Hour: Essays, Original and Selected. By the
Author of " The Gentle Life." 3rd Edition.
"All who possess 'The Gentle Life ' should own this volume.'' — Standard.
Half-Length Portraits. Short Studies of Notable Persons.
By J. Hain Friswell.
Essays on English Writers, for the Self-improvement, of
Students in English Literature.
¦ "To all who have neglected to read and study their native literatiu-e we would
certainly suggest the volume before us as a iitting introduction." — Examitter.
Other Peoples Windows. By J. Hain Friswell. 3rd Edition.
"The chapters are so lively in themselves, so mingled with shrewd views of
human nature, so full of illustrative anecdotes, that the reader cannot iailtobe
amused. " — Morning Post.
A Man's Thoughts. By J. Hain Friswell.

German Primer. Being an Introduction to First Steps in
German. By M. T. Preu. 2s. 6d.
Getting On in the World ; or. Hints on Success in Life. By
W. Mathews, LL. D. Small post Svo, cloth, 2s. 6d. ; gilt edges, 3J. 6d.
Gilpin's Forest Scenery. Edited by F. G. Heath. Large
post Svo, with numerous Illustrations. Uniform with "The Fern
World," I2J. 6d. In 6 monthly parts, 2s. each.

Sampson Low, Marston, &f Co.'s

Gordon (J. E. H.). See " Four Lectures on Electric Induc
tion," " Physical Treatise on Electricity," &c.
GouffL The Royal Cookery Book. By Jules Gouffe ; trans
lated and adapted for English use by Alphonse GoUFFi, Head
Pastrycook to her Majesty the Queen. Illustrated with large plates
printed in colours. l6l Woodcuts, Svo, cloth extra, gilt edges, 2/. 2s.
 Domestic Edition, half-bound, los. td.
" By far the ablest and most complete work on cookery that has ever been sub- -
mitted to the gastronomical world." — Pall Mall Gazette.
Great Artists. See " Biographies."
Great Historic Galleries of England (The). Edited by Lord
Ronald Gower, F.S.A., Trustee of the National Portrait Gallery.
Illustrated by 24 large and carefully-executed /i7>-»Z3n^»^Photogiaphs
of some of the raost celebrated Pictures by the Great Masters. Imperial
4to, cloth extra, gilt edges, 36J.
Great Musicians (The). A Series of Biographies of the Great
Musicians. Edited by F Hueffer.

5. Bossini, and the Modern Italian
School. By H. Sutherland
Edwards.
6. Maroello. By Arrigo Boito.
7. Purcell. By II. W. Cummings. ,

I. Warner. By the Editor.
2. Weher. By Sir Julius
Benedict.
3. Mendelssohn. By Joseph
Bennett.
4. Schuhert. By H.F.Frost.
*^* Dx. Hiller and other distinguished writers, both English and
Foreign, have promised contributions. Each Volume is complete in
itself. Small post Svo, cloth extra, 3^-. ..
Guizofs History of France. Translated by Robert Black.
Super-royal Svo, very numerous Full-page and other Illustrations. In
8 vols. , cloth extra, gilt, each 24;.
" It supplies a want which has long been felt, and ought to be in the hands of all
students of history." — Times.
— —  Masson' s School Edition. The
History of P'rance from the Earliest Times to the Outbreak of the
Revolution; abridged from the Translation by Robert Black, M. A.,
with Chronological Index, Historical and Genealogical Tables, &c.
By Professor Gustave Masson, B.A., Assistant Master at Harrow
School. With 24 full-page Portraits, and many other Illustrations.
I vol., demy Svo, 600 pp., cloth extra, los. 6d.
Guizofs History of England. In 3 vols, of about 500 pp. each,
containing 60 to 70 Full-page and other Illustrations, cloth extra, gilt,
24?. each.
" For luxury of typography, plainness of print, and beauty of illustration, these
volumes, of which but one has as yet appeared in English, will hold their own
against any production of an age so luxurious as our own in everything, typography
not excepted." — Times.
Guyon (Mde.) Life. By Upham. . 6th Edition, crown Svo, 65.

List of Publications. 13

LJANDBOOK to the Charities of London. See Low's.
. of Embroidery ; tvhich see.
to the Principal Schools of England. See Practical.

Half-Hours of Blind Maris Holiday ; or. Summer and Winter
Sketches in Black and White. By W. W. Fenn, Author of "After
Sundown," &c. 2 vols., cr. Svo, 24,'.
Hall(W. W.) How to Live Long; or, 1408 Health Maxims,
Physical, Mental, and Moral. By W. W. Hall, A.M., M.D.
Small post Svo, cloth, 2s. Second Edition.
Hans Brinker; or, the Silver Skates. See Dodge.
Harper's Monthly Magazine. Published Monthly. 160 pages,
fully Illustrated, is. With two Serial Novels by celebrated Authors.
" ' Harper's Magazine ' is so thickly sown with excellent iUustrations that[to count
them would be a work of time ; not that it is a picture magazine, for the engravings
iiiustrate the text after the manner seen in some of our choicest editions de luxe."—
St. James's Gazette.
" It is so pretty, so big, and so cheap. . . . An extraordmary shilhngsworth—
160 large octavo pages, with over a score of articles, and more than three times as
many illusti&tions."— Edinburgh Daily Review.
" An amazing shillingsworth . . . combining choice literature of both nations." —
Nonconformist.
Heart of Africa. Three Years' Travels and Adventures in the
Unexplored Regions of Central Africa, firom 1868 to 1S71. By Dr.
Georg Schweinfurth. Numerous Illustrations, and large Map.
2 vols., crown Svo, cloth, 15^-
Heath (Francis George). See " Fern World," " Fern Paradise,"
"Our Woodland Trees," "Trees and Ferns," "Gilpin's Forest
Scenery," "Bumham Beeches," "Sylvan Spring," &c.
Heber' s (Bishop) Illustrated Edition of Hymns. With upwards
of 100 beautiful Engravings. Small 4to, handsomely bound, Ts. 6d.
Morocco, i8j. 6d. and 21 j. An entirely New Edition.
Heir of Kilfinnan (The). New Story by W. H. G. Kingston,
Author of " Snow Shoes and C«noes," &c. With Illustrations. Cloth,
gilt edges, "js. 6d. ; plainer binding, plain edges, ^s.
History and Handbook of Photography. Translated from the
French of Gaston Tissandier. Edited by J. Thomson. Imperial
l6mo, over 300 pages, 70 Woodcuts, and Specimens of Prints by the
best Permanent Processes. Second Edition, with an Appendix by
the late Mr. Henky Fox Talbot. Cloth extra, 6s.
History of a Crime (The) ; Deposition of an Eye-witness. By
Victor Hugo. 4 vols., crown Svo, \is. Cheap Edition, i vol., 6s.
 Ancient Art. Translated from the German of John
Winckelmann, by John Lodge, M.D. With very numerous
Plates and Illustrations. 2 vols., Svo, 36,?.
 England. See Guizot.
 France. See GuizoT.

14 Sampson Low, Marston, df Co.'s
History of Russia. See Rambaud.
 Merchant Shipping. See Lindsay.
 United States. See Bryant.
History and Principles of Weaving by Hand and by Power. With
several hundred Illustrations. By Alfred Barlow. Royal Svo,
cloth extra, il. t,s. Second Edition.
How I Crossed Africa : from the Atlantic to the Indian Ocean,
Through Unknown Countries ; Discovery of the Great Zambesi
Afiluents, &c.— Vol. I., The King's Rifle. Vol. IL, The Coillard
Family. By Major Serpa Pinto. With 24 full-page and 118 half-
page and smaller Illustrations, 13 small Maps, and I large one.
2 vols., demy Svo, cloth extra, 42?.
How to Live Long. See Hall.
How to get Strong and how to Stay so. By William Blaikie.
A Manual of Rational, Physical, Gymnastic, and other Exercises.
With Illustrations, small post Svo, ^s.
Hugo ( Victor) "Ninety-Three'' Illustrated. Crown Svo, ts.
 Toilers of the Sea. CrOwn Svo. Illustrated, ts.; fancy
boards, 2s. ; cloth, 2i. 6d. ; On large paper with all the original
Illustrations, los. 6d.
See " History of a Crime."

Hundred Greatest Men (The). 8 portfolios, zis. each, or 4
vols., half morocco, gilt edges, 12 guineas, containing 15 to 20
Portraits each. See below.
"Messrs. Sampson Low & Co. are abowt to Lssue an important 'International*
work, entitled, 'THE HUNDRED GREATEST MEN;' being the Lives and
Portraits of the loo Greatest Men of History, divided into Eight Classes, each Class
to form a Monthly Quarto Volume. The Introductions to the volumes are to be
written by recognized authorities on the diff'erent subjects, the English contributors
being Dean Stanley, Mr. Matthew Arnold, Mr. Froude, and Professor Max
MiJLLER: in Germany, Professor Helmholtz; in France, MM. Taine and
Renan : and in America, Mr. Emerson. The Portraits are to be Reproductions,
from fine and rare Steel Engiaraigs." — Academy.
Hygiene and Public Health (A Treatise on). Edited by A. H.
Buck, M.D. Illustrated by numerous Wood Engravings. In 2
royal Svo vols., cloth, one guinea each.
Hymnal Companion to Book of Common Prayer. See
Bickersteth.

TLLUSTRATED Text-Books of Art-Education. Edited by
¦* Edward J. PoYNTER, R.A. Each Volume contains numerous Illus
trations, and is strongly bound for the use of Students, price 5^. The
Volumes now ready are : — PAINTING.

Classic and Italian. By Percy
R. Head. With 50 Illustrations,

Oerman, Flemish, and Dutch.
French and Spanish.
Eng'lish and American.

List of Publications, 1 5

Illustrated Text-Books (continued) : —
ARCHITECTURE.
ClasBio and Early Christian.
Gothio and Benaissance. By T. Roger Smith. With 50 Illustra
tions, 5.r. SCULPTURE.
Antique : Egyptian and Greek. | Benaissance and Slodern.
ORNAMENT.
Decoration in Colour. { Architectural Ornament.
Illustrations qf China and its People. By J. Thompson,
F.R.G.S. Four Volumes, imperial 4to, each 3/. 3^.
In my Indian Garden. By Phil Robinson, Author of " Under
¦ the Punkah." With a Preface by Edwin Arnold, M. A., C.S.I., &c.
Crown Svo, limp cloth, 3^. 6d.
Involuntary Voyage (An). Showing how a Frenchman who
abhorred the Sea was most unwillingly and by a series of accidents
driven round the World, Numerous ' Illustrations. Square crown
Svo, doth extra, 7J-. 6d. ; plainer binding, plain edges, 5^.
Irish Bar. Comprising Anecdotes, Bon-Mots, and Bio
graphical Sketches of the Bench and Bar of Ireland. By J. Roderick
O'Flanagan, Barrister-at-Law. Crown Svo, 12s. Second Edition.
Irish Land Question, and English Public Opinion (The). With
a Supplement on Griffith's Valuation. By R. Barry O'Brien,
Author of " The Parliamentary History of the Irish Land Question."
Fcap. Svo, cloth, 2j.
Irving ( Washington). Complete Library Edition of his Works
in 27 Vols., Copyright, Unabridged, and with the Author's Latest
Revisions, called the " fjeoffrey Crayon " Edition, handsomely printed
iu large square Svo, on superfine laid paper, and each volume, of
about 500 pages, will be fully Illustrated, 12s. 6d. per vol. See also
" Little Britain."
<>fACKandyill. By Miss Alcott. Small post Svo, cloth,
J gilt edges, ^s. With numerous Illustrations.
John Holdsworth, Chief Mate. By . W. Clarke Russell,
Author of ' ' Wreck of the Grosvenor." Crown Svo, 6s.
T^INGSTON(W. H. G.). See "Snow-Shoes," "Child of
•^*- the Cavern," "Two Supercargoes," " With Axe and Rifle,"
"Begum's Fortune," " Heir of Kilfinnan," " Dick Cheveley." Each
vol., with very numerous Illustrations, square crown i6mo, gilt edges,
Js. 6d.; plamer binding, plain edges, S^-

1 6 Sampson Low, Marston, &' Co.'s
J ADY Silverdaies Sweetheart, ts. ^^^ Black.
Lenten Meditations. In Two Series, each complete in itself.
By the Rev. Claude Bosanquet, Author of "Blossoms from the
King's Garden." i6mo, cloth, First Series, is. 6d. ; Second Series, 2s.
Library of Religious Poetry. A Collection of the Best Poems
of all Ages and Tongues. With Biographical and Literary Notes.
Edited by Philip Schaff, D.D., LL.D., and Arthur Gilman,
M.A. Royal Svo, pp. 1036, cloth extra, gilt edges, 2\s.
life and Letters of the flonourable Charles Sumner (The).
2 vols., royal Svo, cloth. Second Edition, 36j'.
Lindsay ( W. S.) History of Merchant Shipping and Ancient
Commerce. Over 150 Illustrations, Maps, and Charts. In 4 vols.,
demy Svo, cloth extra. Vols. I and 2, 21s. ; vols. 3 and 4, 241. each.
Little Britain ; together with The Spectre Bridegroom, and A
LegenJ of Sleepy Hollow. By Washington Irving. An enthely
New Edition de luxe, specially suitable for Presentation. Illustrated
by 120 very fine Engravings on Wood, by Mr. J. D. Cooper.
Designed by Mr. Charles O. Murray. Square crown Svo, cloth
extra, gilt edges, los. 6d.
Little King ; or, the Taming of a Young Russian Count. By
S. Blandy. 64 Illustrations. Crovra Svo, gilt edges, 7J-. 6d. ; plainer
binding, 5^.
Little Mercy ; or. For Better for Worse. By Maude Jeanne
Franc, Author of "Marian," "Vermont Vale," &c., &c. Small
post Svo, cloth extra, 4J. Second Edition.
Lost Sir Massingberd. New Edition, crown Svo, boards, coloured
WTapper, 2s.
Low's German Series —
I. The Illustrated German Primer. Being the easiest introduction
to the study of German for all begirmers. l.t.
3. The Children's own German Book. A Selection of Amusing
and Instructive Stories in Prose. Edited by Dr. A. L. Meissner.
SmaE post Svo, cloth, is. 6d.
3. The First German Beader, for Children from Ten to
Fourteen. Edited by Dr. A. L. Meissner. Small post Svo,
cloth, IS. 6d.
4. The Second German Beader. Edited by Dr. A. L. Meissner.
Small post Svo, cloth, is. 6d.
Buchheim's Deutsche Prosa. Two Volumes, sold separately : —
5. Schiller's Frosa. Containing Selections from the Prose Works
of Schiller, with Notes for English Students. By Dr. Buchheim.
Small post Svo, 2s. 6d.
6. Goethe's Prosa. Selections from the Prose Works of Goethe,
with Notes for English Students. By Dr. Buchheim. Small
post Svo, y. 6d.

List of Publicatiorls. . 1 7

Lottos International Series of Toy Books, td. each; or
Mounted on Linen, is.
I. Little Fred and his Fiddle, from Asbjornsen's "Norwegian
Fairy Tales."
2. The liad and the North Wind, ditto.
3. The Pancake, ditto.
4. The Little Match Girl, from H. C. Andersen's "Danish
Fairy Tales."
5. The Emperor's New Clothes, ditto.
6. The Gallant Tin Soldier, ditto.
The above in I vol., cloth extra, gilt edges, with the whole ,3b
Coloured Illustrations, ^s.
Low's Standard Library of Travel and Adventure. Crown Svo,
bound uniformly in cloth extra, price 7^. 6d.
I. The Great Lone Land. By Major W. F. Butler, CB.
2. The "Wild North Land. By Major W. F. Butler, CB.
3. How I found Livingrstone. By H. M. Stanley.
4. The Threshold of the Tlnknown Beg-ion. By C R. MARK-
HAM. (4th Edition, with Additional Chapters, loj-. 6d.)
5. A Whaling Cruise to Baffin's Bay and the Gulf of Boothia. ,
By A. H. Markham.
6. Campaigminer on the Oxus. By J. A. MacGahan.
7. Akim-foo: the History of a Failure. By Major W. F.
Butler, CB.
8. Ocean to Ocean. By the Rev. George M. Grant. With
Illustrations.
9. Cruise of the Challengrer. By W. J. J. Spry, R.N.
10. Schweinfurth's Heart of Africa. 2 vols., I5.r.
II. Through the Dark Continent. By H. M. Stanley, i vol.,
12S. 6d.
Loiti's Standard Novels. Crown Svo, ts. each, cloth extra.
My Lady Greensleeves. By Helen Mathers, Authoress of
" Comin' through the Rye," " Cherry Ripe," &c.
Three Feathers. By William Black.
A Daughter of Heth. 13th Edition. By W. Black. With
Frontispiece by F. Walker, A. R.A.
Kilmeny. A Novel. By W. Black.
In Silk Attire. By W. Black.
Lady Silverdale's Sweetheart. By W. Black.
History of a Crime : The Story of the Coup d'Etat. By Victor
Hugo.

1 8 Sampson Low, Marston, df Co's
LoTjJs Standard Novels (continued) : —
Alice Lorraine. By R. D. Blackmore.
Lorna Doone. By R. D. Blackmore. Sth Edition.
Cradock Nowell. By R. D. Blackmore.
Clara Vaughan. By R. D. Blackmore.
Cripps the Carrier. By R. D. Blackmore.
Erema; or. My Father's Sin. By R. D. BLACKMORE.
Mary Anerley. By R. D. Blackmore.
Innocent. By Mrs. Oliphant. Eight Illustrations.
Work. A Story of Experience. By LouiSA M. Alcott. Illustra
tions. See also Rose Libraiy.
The Afghan Knife. By R. A. Sterndale, Author of "Seonee."
A French Heiress in her own Chateau. By the Author of
" One Only," " Constantia," &c. Six Illustrations.
Ninety-Three. By Victor Hugo. Numerous Illustrations.
My Wife and I. By Mrs. Beecher Stowe.
Wreck of the Grosvenor. By W. Clark Russell.
John Holdsworth (Chief Mate). By W. Clark Russell,
Elinor Dryden. By Mrs. Macquoid.
Diane. By Mrs. Macquoid.
Pogauuc People, Their Loves and Lives. By Mrs. Beecher
Stowe.
A Golden Sorrow. By Mrs. Cashel Hoey.
A Story of the Dragonnades ; or. Asylum Christi. By the Rev.
E. GiLLIAT, M.A.
Loiels Handbook to the Charities of London. Edited and
revised to date by C Mackeson, F.S.S., Editor of "A Guide to the
Churches of London and its Suburbs," &c. Paper, is. ; cloth, is. 6d.
AyfA CGAHAN (J. A.) Campaigning on the O^us, and the
¦t- '¦'¦ Fall of Khiva. With Map and numerous Illustrations, 4th Edition,
small post Svo, cloth extra, Is. 6d.
Macgregor (John) "Rob Roy'' on the Baltic. 3rd Edition,
small post Svo, 2s. 6d. ; cloth, gilt edges, 3^-. 6d.
. A Thousand Miles in the "Rob Roy" Canoe, nth
Edition, small post Svo, zs. 6d. j cloth, gilt edges, y. 6d.
 Description of the " Rob Roy" Canoe, with Plans,
&c., IJ-.
 Ihe Voyage Alone in the Yawl "Rob Roy.'' New
Edition, thoroughly revised, with additions, small post Svo, 5j. ;
boards, 2s. 6d,

List of Publications. 19

Mackenzie (D.) "The Flooding of the Sahara. By Donald
Mackenzie. Svo, cloth extra, with Illustrations, loj. 6d.
Macquoid (Mrs.) Elinor Dryden. Crown Svo, cloth, ts,
 Diane. Crown Svo, 6.?.
Magazine. See Harper.
Markham (C. R.) The Threshold of the Unknotvn Region,
Crown Svo, with Four Maps, 4th Edition. Cloth extra, 10s. 6d.
Maury (Commander) Physical Geography of the Sea, and its
Meteorology. Being a Reconstruction and Enlargement of his former
Work, with Charts and Diagrams. New Edition, crown Svo, 6s.
Memoirs of Count Mtot de Melito. 2 vols., demy Svo, 36J.
Memoirs of Madame de Remusat, 1S02 — 180S. By hei Grand
son, M. Paul de Remusat, Senator. Translated by Mrs. Cashel
HoEY and Mr. John Lillie. 4th Edition, cloth extra. This
work was written by Madame de Remusat during the time she
was living on the most intimate terms with the Empress Josephine,
and is fiiU of revelations respecting the private life of Bonaparte, and
of men and politics of the first years of the century. Revelations
which have already created a great sensation in Paris. Svo, 2 vols., 32.?.
Menus (366, one for each day of the year). Translated fiom the
French of Count Brisse, by Mrs. Matthew Clarke. Crown
Svo, iQT. 6d.
Men of Mark: a Gallery of Contemporary Portraits of the most
Eminent Men of the Day taken from Life, especially for this publica
tion, price IS. 6d. monthly. Vols. I., II., III., IV., and V., hand
somely bound, cloth, gilt edges, 25J. each.
Mendelssohn Family (The). Translated from the German of
E. Bock. Demy Svo, i6s.
Michael Strogoff. 10^. 6i/. and 5.?. &£ Verne.
Mitford (Miss). See « Our Village."
Military Maxims. By Captain B. Terling. Medium i6mo,
in roan case, with pencil for the pocket, ioj. 6d.
Mountain and Prairie : a Journey from Victoria to Winnipeg,
viS, Peace River Pass. By the Rev. Daniel M. Gordon, B.D.,
Ottawa. Small post Svo, with Maps and Illustrations, cloth extra,
&r. 6d.
Music. See " Great Musicians."
My Lady Greensleeves. By Helen Mathers, Authoress of
"Comin' through the Rye," "Cherry Ripe," &c. l vol. edition,
crown Svo, cloth, 6s.

20 Sampson Low, Marston, ^f Co.'s
Mysterious Island. By Jules Verne. 3 vols., imperial i6mo.
150 Illustrations, cloth gilt, 3J-. 6d, each ; elaborately bound, gilt
edges, "JS. 6d. each. Cheap Edition, with some of the Illustrations,
cloth, gilt, 2s. ; paper, is. each.
TVfATIONAL Music of the World. By the late Henry F.
¦^ ^ Chorley. Edited by H. G. Hewlett. Crown Svo, cloth, %s. 6d.
Naval Brigade in South Africa (The). By Henry F. Nor-
BURY, C.B., R.N. Crown Svo, cloth extra, los. 6d.
New Child's Play (A). Sixteen Drawings by E. V. B. Beauti
fully printed in colours, 4to, cloth extra, 12s. 6d.
New Guinea (A ' Few Months in). By Octavius C. Stone,
F.R.G.S. With numerous Illustrations frora the Author's own
Drawings. Crown Svo, cloth, I2j.
 — What I did and ivhat I saw. By L. M. D'Albertis,
Officer of the Order of the Crown of Italy, Honorary Member and
Gold Medallist of the I.R.G.S.. C.M.Z.S., &c., &c. In 2 vols.,
demy Svo, cloth extra, with Maps, Coloured Plates, and numerous
very fine Woodcut Illustrations, 42^.
New Ireland. By A. M. Sullivan, M.P. for Louth. 2 vols.,
demy Svo, 30^. Cheaper Edition, i vol. , crown Svo, 8j. 6d.
New Novels. Crown Svo, cloth, los. td. per vol. : —
Mary Marston. By George MacDonald. 3 vols. Third Edition
Sarah de Beranger. By Jean Ingelow. 3 vols.
Don John. By Jean Ingelow. 3 vols.
Sunrise : A Story of these Times. By William Black. 3 vols.
A Sailor's Sweetheart. By W. Clark Russell, Author of "The
Wreck of the Grosvenor," "John Holdsworth," &c. 3 vols.
Lisa Lena. By Edward Jenkins, Author of "Ginx's Baby."
2 vols.
A Plot of the Present Day. By Kate Hope. 3 vols.
Black Abbey. By M. Ckommelin, Author of "Queenie,'' &c.
3 vols.
Flower o' the Broom. By the Author of "Rare Pale Margaret,"
3 vols.
The Grandidiers : A Tale of Berlin. Translated from the German
by Captain Wm. Savile. 3 vols.
Errant : A Life Story of Latter-Day Chivalry. By Percy Greg,
Author of "Across the Zodiac," &c. 3 vols.
Fancy Free. By C. Gibbon. 3 vols.
The Stillwater Tragedy. By J. B. Aldrich.
Prince Fortune and Prince Fatal. By Mrs. Carrington,
Author of " My Cousin Maurice," &c. 3 vols.

List of Publications. a i

New Novels (continued) : —
An English Squire. By C. B. CoLERlDGE, Author of "Lady
Betty, " ' ' Hanbury WiUs," &c. 3 vols.
Christowell. By R. D. Blackmore. 3 vols.
Mr. Caroli. By Miss Seguin. 3 vols.
David Broome, Artist. By Miss O'Reilly. 3 vols.
Braes of Yarrow. By Chas. Gibbon. 3 vols.
Nice and Her Neighbours. By the Rev. Canon Hole, Author
of " A Book about Roses," "A Little Tour in Ireland," &c. Small
4to, with numerous choice Illustrations, 12s. 6d.
Noble Words and Noble Deeds. From the French of E. Muller.
Containing many Full-page Illustrations by Philippoteaux. Square
imperial l6mo, cloth extra, 7^. 6d. ; plainer binding, plain edges, 5j.
North American Review (The). Monthly, price 2s. td.
Nothing to Wear ; and Two Millions. By W. A. Butler.
New Edition. Small post Svo, in stiff coloured wrapper, is.
Nursery Playmates (Prince of ). 217 Coloured pictures for
Children by eminent Artists. Folio, in coloured boards, 6s.

QBERAMMERGAU Passion Play. See "Art in the
^ Mountains."
O'Brien. See " Parliamentary History " and " Irish- Land
Question,"
Old-Fashioned Girl. See Alcott.
On Horseback through Asia Minor. By Capt. Fred Burnaby,
Royal Horse Guards, Author of "A Ride to Khiva." 2 vols.,
Svo, with three Maps and Portrait of Author, 6th Edition, 38J. ;
Cheaper Edition, crown Svo, los. 6d.
Our Little Ones in Heaven. Edited by the Rev. H. Robbins.
With Frontispiece after Sir Joshua Reynolds. Fcap., cloth extra.
New Edition — the 3rd, with Illustrations, 5^.
Our Village. By Mary Russell Mitford. Illustrated with
Frontispiece Steel Engraving, and 12 full-page and 157 smaller Cuts-
of Figure Subjects and Scenes. Crown 4to, cloth, gilt edges, 21^.
Our Woodland Trees. By F. G. Heath. Large post Svo,
cloth, gilt edges, uniform with " Fern Worid " and " Fem Paradise,"
by the same Author. 8 Coloured Plates (showing leaves of every
British Tree) and 20 Woodcuts, cloth, gilt edges, I2.r. 6d. Third
Edition.

22 Sampson Low, Marston, dr" Co.'s
PAINTERS of All Schools. By Louis Viardot, and other
•* Writers. S°° PP-> super- royal Svo, 20 Full-page and 70 smaller
Engravings, cloth extra, 25J. A New Edition is issued in Half-
crown parts, with fifty additional portraits, cloth, gilt edges, 31J. 6d.
Painting (A Sliort History of the British School of). - By
Geo. H. Shepherd. Post Svo, cloth, y. 6d. ;
Palliser (Mrs.) A History qf Lace, from the Earliest Period.
A New and Revised Edition, vrith additional cuts and text, upwards
of 100 Illustrations and coloured Designs, i vol., Svo, i/. is.
 Historic Devices, Badges, and War Cries. Svo, i/. is.
 The China Collector's Pocket Companion. With up
wards of 1000 Illustrations of Marks and Monograms. 2nd Edition,.
with Additions. Small post Svo, limp cloth, y.
Parliamentary History of the Irish Land Question (The). From
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R. Barry O'Brien, Barrister-at-Law, Author of "The Irish Land.
Question and English Public Opinion." 3rd Edition, corrected and
revised, with additional matter. Post Svo, cloth extra, 6s.
The Right Hon. W. E. GLADSTONE , M. P., in a Letter to Ihe Author, says :—
** I thank you for kindly sending me your work, and I hope that the sad and dis
creditable story which you have told so well in your narrative of the Irish Land
Question may be useful ataperiod when we have more than ever of teason to desire
that it should be thoroughly understood."
Pathways of Palestine : a Descriptive Tour through the Holy
Land. By the Rev. Canon Tristram. Illustrated with 44 per
manent Photographs. (The Photographs are large, and most perfect
Specimens of the Art.) Published in 22 Monthly Parts, 410, in
Wrapper, 2s. 6d. each.
"... The Photographs -which illustrate these pages may justly claim, as works
of art, to be the most admirabl>r executed views which have been produced. . . .
"As the writer is on the point of making a fourth visit of exploration to ths
country, any new discoveiies which come under observation will be at once incor*
porated in this work."
Peasant Life in the West of England. By Francis George
Heath, Author of " Sylvan 'Spring," " The F"em Worid." Crown
Svo, about 350 pp. , lOr. 6d.
Petites Leqons de Conversation et de Grammaire: Oral and
Conversational Method ; being Lessons introducmg the most Useful
Topics of Conversation, upon an entirely new principle, &c. By
F. Julien, French Master at King Edward the Sixth's School,
Birmingham. Author of "The Student's French Examiner," " First
Steps in Conversational French Grammar," which see.
Phillips (L.) Dictionary of Biographical Reference. Svo,
i/. I i.f. 6d.
Photography (History and Handbook of). See Tissandier.

List of Publications. «j

Physical Treatise on Electricity and Magnetism. By J. E. H.
Gordon, B.A. With about 200 coloured, full-page, and other
Illustrations. Among the newer portions of the work may be
enumerated : All the more recent investigations on Strice by Spottis-
woode, De la Rue, Moulton, &c., an account of Mr. Crooke's recent
researches ; full descriptions and pictures of all the modern Magnetic
Survey Instruments now used at Kew Observatory ; full accounts of
all tlie modem work on Specific Inductive Capacity, and of the more
recent determination of the ratio of Electric units (v). In respect to
the number and beauty of the Illustrations, the work is quite unique.
2 vols., Svo, 36J.
Pinto (Major Serpa). See " How I Crossed Africa."
Plutarch's Lives. An Entirely New and Library Edition.
Edited by A. H. Clough, Esq. J vols., Svo, 2I. ioj-.; half-morocco,
gUt top, 3/. Also in 1 vol., royal Svo, Soo pp., cloth extra, iSs.;
half-bound, 21^.
Poems of the Inner Life. A New Edition, Revised, with many
additional Poems. Small post Svo, cloth, y.
Poganuc People: their Loves and Lives. By Mrs. Beecher
Stowe. Crown Svo, cloth, 6s.
Polar Expeditions. See Koldewey, Markham, MacGahan,
and Nares.
Poynter (Edward J., R.A). See " Illustrated Text-books."
Practical (A) Handbook to the Principal Schools of England.
By C E. Pascoe. New Edition, crown Svo, cloth extra, y. 6d.
Prejevalsky (N. M.) From Kulja, across the Tian Shan to Lob-
nor. Translated by E. Delmar Morgan, F.R.G.S. Demy. Svo,
with a Map. i6j-.
Primitive Folk Moots ; or, Open-Air Assemblies in Britain.
By George Laurence Gomme, F.S.A., Honorary Secretary to the
Folk-Lore Society, Author of "Index of Municipal Offices." i vol.,
crovsTi Svo, cloth, 12s.
This work deals with an earlier phase of the history of English
Institutions than has yet been attempted.
Publisher^ Circular (The), and General Record of British and
Foreign Literature. Published on the 1st and isthof every Month, id.
Pyrenees (The). By Henry Blackburn. With loo Illustra
tions by Gustave Dore, a New Map of Routes, and Information for
Travellers, corrected to 1881. With a description of Lourdes in 1880.
Crown Svo, cloth extra, Js. 6d.

24 Sampson Low, Marston, 6^ Co.'s
J^AMBA UD (Alfred). History of Russia, from its Origin
¦' *¦ to the Year 1S77. With Six Maps. Translated by Mro. L. B.
1/1.2 vols., demy Svo, cloth extra, 38^.
Recollections qf Writers. By Charles and Mary Cowden
Clarke. Authors of " The Concordance to Shakespeare," &c. ;
with Letters of Charles Lamb, Leigh Hunt, Douglas Jerrold,
and Charles Dickens ; and a Preface by Mary Cowden Clarke.
Crown Svo, cloth, lOy. 6d.
Remusat (Madame de). See " Memoirs of."
Robinson (Phil). See " In my Indian Garden," " Under the
Punkah."
Rochefoucauld's Reflections. Bayard Series, 2S. td.
Rogers (S.) Pleasures of Memory. See " Choice Editions of
Choice Books." 2s. 6d.
Rose in Bloom. See Alcott.
The Rose Library. Popular Literature of all countries. Each
volume, IS. j cloth, 2s. 6d. Many of the Volumes are Illustrated —
I. Sea-Gull Bock. ByJULES Sandeau. Illustrated.
2. Little Women. By LouisA M. Alcott.
3. Little Women Wedded. Forming a Sequel to "Little Women.''
4. The House on Wheels. By Madame de Stolz. Illustrated.
S. Little Men. By Louisa M. A LCOTT. Dble. vol., 2^.; cloth, 3J-. 6ii
6. The Old-Fashioned Girl. By LouiSA M. Alcott, Double
vol., 2s. ; cloth, 3 J. 6d.
7. The Mistress of the Manse. By J. G. Holland.
8. Timothy Titcomb's Letters to Young- People, Sing-le and
Married.
9. Undine, and the Two Captains. By Baron De La Motte
FoUQUfi. A New Translation by F. E. Bunnett. Illustrated.
10. Draxy Miller's Dowry, and the Elder's Wife. By Saxe
Holm.
II. The Four Gold Pieces. By Madame Gouraud. Numerous
Illustrations.
12. Work. A Story of Experience. First Portion. By Louisa M.
Alcott.
13. Beginning Again. Being a Continuation of "Work.'' By
Louisa M. Alcott.
14 Picciola; or, the Prison Flower. By X. B. Saintine.
Numerous Graphic Illustrations.

List of Publications, 25

The Rose Library (continued) .¦ —
15. Bobert's Holidays. Illustrated.
16. The Two Children of St. Domingro. Numerous Illustrations.
17. Aunt Jo's Scrap Bag.
18. Stowe (Mrs. H. B.) The Pearl of Orr's Island.
19.  The Minister's Wooing.
20.  Betty's Bright Idea.
21.  i The Ghost in the Mill.
22.  Captain Eidd's Money.
23.  We and our Neighhours. Double vol., 2s.
24.  My Wife and I. Double vol., 2s. ; cloth, gilt, 3^. 6d.
25. Hans Brinker ; or, the Silver Skates.
26. Lowell's My Study Window.
27. Holmes (O. W.) The Guardian Angel.
28. Warner (C. D.) My Summer in a Garden.
29. Hitherto. By the Author of " The Gay worthys." 2 vols., I j. each.
30. Helen's Babies. By their Latest Victim.
31. The Barton Experiment. By the Author of " Helen's Babies. ''
32. Dred. By Mrs. Beecher Stowe. Double vol., 2s. ; cloth,
gilt, jr. 6d.
33. Warner (C. D.) In the Wilderness.
34. Six to One. A Seaside Story.
35. Nothing- to Wear, and Two Millions.
36. Farm Ballads. By Will Carleton.
Russell (W. Clarke). See "A Sailor's Sweetheart," 3 vols.,
3U. 6d. ; "Wreck of the Grosvenor," 6s. ; "John Holdsworth (Chief
Mate)," 6s.
Russell (W. H., LL.D.) The Tour of the Prince of Wales in
India. By W. H. Russell, LL.D. Fully Illustrated by Sydney
P. Hall, M.A. Super-royal Svo, cloth extra, gilt edges, 52f . 6i/. ;
Large Paper Edition, 84f.
<^ANCTA Christina: a Story of the First Century. By
*~^ Eleanor E. Orlebar. With a Preface by the Bishop of Winchester.
Small post Svo, cloth extra, 5^.
Seonee : Sporting in the Satpura Range of Central India, and i?i
the Valley of the Nerbudda. By R. A. Sterndale, F.R. G.S, Svo,
with numerous Illustrations, 2IJ.
Seven Years in South Africa : Travels, Researches, and Hunting
Adventures between the Diamond-Fields and the Zambesi (1S72—
1879). By Dr. Emil Holub. With over 100 Original Illustrations
and 4 Maps. In 2 vols., demy Svo, cloth extra, 42J.

26 Sampson Low, Marston, &-* Co.'s
Serpent Charmer (The) : a Tale of the Indian Mutiny. By
Louis RoussELET, Author of "India aud its Native Princes."
Numerous Illustrations. Crown Svo, cloth extra, gilt edges, Js. 6d. ;
plainer binding, 5^.
Shakespeare (The Boudoir). Edited by Henry Cundell.
Carefully bracketted for reading aloud ; freed from all objectionable
matter, and altogether free from notes. Price 2s. 6d. each volume,
cloth extra, gilt edges. Contents : — Vol I., Cymbeline — Merchant of
Venice. Each play separately, paper cover, is. Vol. II., As You
Like It — King Lear — Much* Ado about Nothing. Vol. III., Romeo
and Juliet — Twelfth Night — King John. The latter six plays sepa-
rately, paper cover, ga?.
Shakespeare Key (The). Forming a Companion to "The
Complete Concordance to Shakespeare." By Charles and Mary
Cowden Clarke. Demy Svo, 800 pp., 2ij-.
Shooting: its Appliances, Practice, and Purpose. By James
Dalziel Dougall, F.S.A., F.Z.A., Author of "Scottish Field
Sports," &c Crown Svo, cloth extra, loj. 6d.
"The book is admirable in every way  We wish it every success."— G&&
' A very complete treatise. .... Likely to take high rank as an authority on
shooting. — Daily News.
Silent Hour ( The). See " Gentle Life Series."
Silver Pitchers. See Alcott.
Simon (Joules), See " Government of M. Thiers."
Six to One, A Seaside Story. i6mo, boards, is.
Smith (G.) Assyrian Explorations and Discoveries. By the late
George Smith. Illustrated by Photographs and Woodcuts. Demy
Svo, 6th Edition, i$s.
 The Chaldean Account of Genesis. By the late
G. Smith, of the Department of Oriental Antiquities, British Museum.
With many Illustrations. Demy Svo, cloth extra, 6th Edition, i6j-.

 An entirely New Edition, completely revised and re
written by the Rev. Professor Sayce, Queen's College, Oxford
Demy Svo, i8s.
Snow-Shoes and Canoes ; or, the Adventures of a Fur-Hunter
m the Hudson's Bay Territory. By W. H. G. Kingston, znd
Edition. With numerous IUustrations. Square crown Svo, cloth
extra, gilt edges, Js. 6d. ; plainer binding, y.

List of Publications. 2 7

Songs and Etchings in Shade and Sunshine. By J. E. G.
Illustrated with 44 Etchings. Small 4to, cloth, gilt tops, 25J.
South African Campaign, 1879 (The). Compiled by J. P.
MACKINNON (formerly 72nd Highlanders), and S. H. Shadbolt ;
and dedicated, by permission, to Field-Marshal H.R.H. The Duka
of Caipbridge. 410, handsomely bound in cloth extra, 2/. los.
South Kensington Museum. Published, with the sanction of
the Science and Art Department, in Monthly Parts, each con-
tAining 8 Plates, price is. Volume L, containing 12 numbers, hand
somely bound, i6s.
Stanley (H. M.) How I Found Livingstone. Crown Svo, cloth
extra, Js. 6d. ; large Paper Edition, los. 6d.

 "My Kalulu," Prince, King, and Slave. A Story
from Central Africa. Crown Svo, aljout 430 pp. , with numerous graphic
Illustrations, after Original Designs by the Author. Cloth, 7j-. 6d.
Coortiassie and Magdala. A Story of Two British

Campaigns in Africa. Demy Svo, with Maps and Illustrations, i6s.
 Tlirough tlie Dark Continent, which see.

Story of a Mountain (The). By E. Reclus. Translated by
Bertha Ness. Svo, with Illustrations, cloth extra, gilt edges,
•JS. 6d.
Story of a Soldier's Life (The) ; or, Peace, War, and Mutiny.
By Lieut.-General John Alexander Ewart, C.B., Aide-de-Camp
to the Queen from 1859 to 1872. 2 vols., demy Svo, with Illustra
tions.
Story of the Zulu Campaign (The). By Majoi; Ashe (late
King's Dragoon Guards), and Captain the Hon. E. V. Wvatt-
Edgell (late 17th Lancers, killed at Ulundi). Dedicated by special
permission to Her Imperial Highness the Empress Eugenie. Svo, i6s.
Story without an End. From the German of Carov^, by the late
Mrs. Sarah T. Austin. Crown 4to, with 15 Exquisite Drawings
by E. V. B., printed in Colours in Fac-simile of the original Water
Colours ; and numerous other Illustrations. New Edition, Js. 6d.
 square 4to, with Illustrations by Harvey. 2s. td.
Stowe (Mrs. Beecher) Dred. Cheap Edition, boards, 2s. Cloth,
gilt edges, y. 6d,

<§ Sampson Low, Marston, &' Co.'s
Stowe (Mrs. Beecher) Footsteps of the Master. With Illustra-
, tions and red borders. , Small post Svo, cloth extra, 6s.
 Geography, with 60 Illustrations. Square cloth, 4^. td.
¦ Little Foxes. Cheap Edition, ts. ; Library Edition,

4J. 6d.
 Betty's Bright Idea. is.
 My Wife and I; or; Harry Henderson's History.
Small post Svo, cloth extra, 6s.*
 Minister's Wooing, e^s.; Copyright Series, is. td.; cl., 2s.*
 Old Town Folk. ts. ; Cheap Edition, 2s. td.
 Old Town Fireside Stories. Cloth extra, 3J. td.
 Our Folks at Poganuc. los. td.

 We and our Neighbours, i vol., small post Svo, ts.
Sequel to " My Wife and I."*
• Pink and White Tyranny. Small post Svo, 3^. td.

Cheap Edition, is. 6d. and 2s.
 Queer Little People. \s. ; cloth, 2s.
 Chimney Comer, is. ; cloth, is. td.
 The Pearl of Orr's Island. Crown Svo, 5^.*
 Little Pussey Willow. Fcap., 2s,
 Woman in Sacred History, Illustrated with 15
Chromo-lithographs and about 200 pages of Letterpress. Dem
4to, cloth extra, gilt edges, 25^.
Studenfs French Examiner. By F. Julien, Author of " Petites
Le9ons de Conversation et de Grammaire." Square crown Svo, cloth, 2s
Studies in German Literature. By Bayard Taylor. Edited
by Marie Taylor. With an Introduction by the Hon. George
H. BOKER. Svo, cloth extra, loj-. 6d.
* See also Rose Library.

List of Publicatiorls. 29

Studies tn the Theory of Descent By Dr. AucJ. WeismanN,
Professor in the University of Freiburg. Translated and edited by
Raphael Meldola, F.C.S., Secretary of the Entomological Society
of London. Part I. — " On the Seasonal Dimorphism of Butterflies,"
containing Original Communications by Mr. W. H. Edwards, of
Coalburgh. With two Coloured Plates. Price of Part. I. (to Sub
scribers for the whole work only), &r ; Part II. (6 coloured plates), i6j. :
Part III., 6s.
Sugar Beet (The). Including a History of the Beet Sugar
Industry in Europe, Varieties of the Sugar Beet, Examination, Soils,
Tillage, Seeds and Sowing, Yield and Cost of Cultivation, Harvesting,
Transportation, Conservation, Feeding Qualities of the Beet and ol
the Pulp, &c. By L. S. Ware. Illustrated. Svo, cloth extra, 21s.
Sullivan (A. M., M.P.). See " New Ireland."
Sulphuric Add (A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture of).
By A. G. and C. G. Lock, Consulting Chemical Engineers. With
77 Construction Plates, and other Illustrations. Royal Svo, 2/. 12s. 6d.
Sumner (Hon. Charles). See Life and Letters.
Sunrise: A Story of These Times. By William Black,
Author of " A Daughter of Heth," &c. 3 vols., 31^. 6d.
Surgeon's Handbook on the Treatment of Wounded in War. By
Dr. Friedrich Esmarch, Professor of Surgery in the University of
Kiel, and Surgeon-General to the Prussian Army. Translated by
H. H. Glutton, B.A. Cantab, F.R.C.S. Numerous Coloured
Plates and Illustrations, Svo, strongly bound in flexible leather, il. Sj.
Sylvan Spring. By Francis George Heath. Illustrated by
12 Coloured Plates, drawn by F. E. Hulme, F.L.S., Artist and
Author of " Familiar Wild Flowers;" by 16. full-page, and more than
100 other Wood Engravings. Large post Svo, cloth, gilt edges, I2J-. 6d.

'TAUCHNITZS English Editions of German Authors,
¦*¦ Each volume, cloth flexible, 2s. ; or sewed, is. 6d. (Catalogues post
free on application.)
 (B) German and English Dictionary. Cloth, is. td,;

loan, 2s,

as, 6d,

¦ French and English. Paper, is, td,; cloth, 2s.; roan

,30 Sampson Low, Marston, 6^ Go's List of Publications.
Tauchnitz (B.) Italian and English Dictionary, Paper, is. td.;
cloth, 2s. ; roan, 2s. 6d.
Spanish and English. Paper, is. td. ; cloth, 2s. ; roan,

2s. 6d.
 New Testament. Cloth, 2S. ; gilt, 2s. td.

Taylor (Bayard). See " Studies in German Literature."
Through America ; or, Nine Alonths in the United States. By
W. G. Marshall, M.A. With nearly lOo Woodcuts of Views of
Utah country and the famous Yosemite Valley; The Giant Trees,
New York, Niagara, San Francisco, &c. ; containing a full account
of Mormon Life, as noted by the Author during his visits to Salt Lake
City in 1878 and 1879. In i vol., demy Svo, 2ij.
Through the Dark Continent : The Sources of the Nile; Around'
the Great Lakes, and down the Congo. By Henry M. Stanley.
2 vols., demy Svo, containing 150 Full-page and other Illustrations,
2 Portraits of the Author, and 10 Maps, ifls. Seventh Thousand.
Cheaper Edition, crown Svo, with some of the Illustrations and Maps.
I vol., I2s. 6d.
Tour of the Prince of Wales in India. See Russell.
Trees and Ferns. By F. G. Heath. Crown Svo, cloth, gilt
edges, with numerous Illustrations, 3J-. 6d.
Two Friends. By Lucien Biart, Author of " Adventures of
a Young Naturalist," " My Rambles in the New World," &c. Small
post Svo, numerous Illustrations, gilt edges, Js. 6d. ; plainer binding, S-f.
Two Supercargoes (The) ; or, Adventures in Savage Africa.
By W. H. G. Kingston. Numerous Full-page Illustrations. Square
imperial l6mo, cloth extra, gilt edges, Js. 6d. ; plainer binding, S^.

TTNDER the Punkah. By Phil Robinson, Author of "In
*-^ my Indian Garden." Crown Svo, limp cloth, uniform with the
above, y. 6d.
Up and Down; or, Fifty Years' Experiences iri Australia,
California, New Zealand, India, China, and the South Pacific,
Being the Life History of Capt. W. J. Barry. Written by Himsel£
L With several Illustrations. Crown Svo, cloth extra, 8j. 6d.

BOOKS BY JULES VEENE.

IlABQB ObOWH Svo .

WOEKS.

Twenty Thousand Leagues
under the Sea. Part I.
Ditto. Paxt II.
Hector Servadao . . .
The Fur Country . . .
From the Earth to the
Moon and a Trip round
it 
Michael Strogoff, the
Courier of the Czar . .
Dick Sands, the Boy
Captain 
Five Weeks in a Balloon .
Adventures of Three En
glishmen and Three
Rnssians 
Around the World in
Eighty Days ....
A Floating City ....
The Blockade Runners .
Dr. Ox's Experiment . .
Master Zacharius . . .
A Drama in the Air , .
A Winter amid the Ice .
The Survivors of the
"Chancellor". . . .
Martin Paz 
The Mysterious Island,
3 vols. :—
Vol. I. Dropped from the
Glonds 
Vol. II. Abandoned . .
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101010

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22 6

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32 Sampson Low, Marston, &• Co.'s List of Publications.

Jff/ALLER (Rev. C. H.) The Names on the Gates of Pearl,
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Woolsey (C. D., LL.D.) Introduction to the Study of Inter-
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