NOTES OF A TOUR THROUGH
THE WESTERN PART OF
THE STATE t>F
NEW YORK
IN 1829

YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

THE LIBRARY ASSOCIATES
Gift of
Carl L. Gannon
1935

NOTES ON A TOUR THROUGH
THE WESTERN PART OF
THE STATE OF
NEW YORK

PHILADELPHIA 1829-30

Two Hundred Copies reprinted
October, 1916, from The Ariel,
Philadelphia, 1829-30, for George
P. Humphrey, Rochester, N. Y.

No.

[We have been politely favored with a
manuscript journal of a very intelligent trav
eller, kept during a tour through the most
thriving counties of the state of New York.
We give an extract below, and shall continue
to furnish others until the whole shall have
been published. The journal will be found to
contain the observations of a sound, practical
farmer, and a lover of the works of nature as
well as those of art. We recommend it to the
attention of our friends in the country, and to
readers generally; believing it well worthy of
an attentive perusal.]

NOTES ON A TOUR THROUGH THE
WESTERN PART OF THE STATE
OF NEW YORK

Extract No. 1
May 5th. — Left Bristol Pa., at eight o'clock, in the
Steamboat Trenton, for New York. About ninety pas
sengers were on the way-bill, not one of which I knew.
Amongst our number was the celebrated Miss Clara
Fisher — famed for her aptitude in personating variety
of character, having wonderful powers of mimicry.
She is certainly a very interesting girl, and attracted
much attention ; but the gaze of strangers was evidently
very disagreeable to her, and she apparently coveted
not much scrutiny. Nothing occurred on our route
worth notice. Having had a pleasant passage, we
arrived at New York about five o'clock.
I took my lodgings at Mrs. Man's boarding-house,
No. 61, Broadway. After making some improvement
in my appearance, such as brushing up my hat and coat,
and brushing off my beard, I issued forth into the
splendid avenue, where all the beauty, and fashion of
this gay city daily promenade, to enjoy the pleasure of
a walk. After walking and walking, and walking
further, until my feet exhibited an alarming regiment

8 Notes of a Tour in 1829
of blisters, I wended my tedious way back to my lodg
ings — took a peep at the medley of boarders that
thronged the house — looked at (but did no more than
taste) the shaved dried beef and prepared bread-and-
butter on the supper-table — for the former was cut in
true Vauxhall style, one pound to cover half an acre,
and the latter was only alarmed by butter — sipped a
dish of tea, and made my escape to bed, ruminating on
the horrors of an empty stomach tantalized by a New
York supper.
May 6th. — Got up early, fresh and active — had a
good night's rest, in spite of a slim supper — paid for
that and my bed — one dollar — just four times as much
as the whole was worth. Pushed off to the North
America steamboat, and took passage to Albany — fare,
two dollars. The night boats, as they are called, that is,
the boats which go in the night, are some of them as low
as one dollar, board included ; but you lose the pleasure
which even common minds must feel when gazing on
the glorious scenery that fringes the borders of the
mighty Hudson, and which, to a stranger, fully makes
up the difference. The North America is a splendid
and superior boat, far surpassing all others that ply
upon the Hudson, and ploughs her majestic course
through the waves at the rate of fifteen miles an hour.
I should estimate the number of passengers on board
to-day at three hundred, all of whom had the appear
ance of belonging to the higher order of society, as the

Through Western New York 9
low-priced boats are favored with the rabble, who move
about here so often, and in such numbers, as to give
those boats a good support. We left the wharf about
seven: and again I looked around me, but in vain, to
find in this dense crowd one familiar face with which
I might claim acquaintance. I was therefore forced to
look on, without having a single friendly bosom with
which I might reciprocate those impressions of pleas
ure which the occasion was so aptly fitted to inspire.
The grand Pallisadoes, the Highlands, and the abrupt
sinuosities of this noble river, were calculated to
awaken in my mind a sense of the fraility of my nature,
and the greatness of a God. After passing Newburg,
the scenery became entirely new to me, as that place
had heretofore been the limit to my journeys. After
leaving this spot, many very beautiful and highly culti
vated seats are passed, on the east side of the river.
They rear their captivating forms in the very bosom of
apparently primeval nature, on some imposing point or
eminence ; and as the boat swiftly passes, are alter
nately hid and opened to the view. As we approached
the Catskill mountains, which are much the highest I
have ever seen, the celebrated mountain house, called
Pine Orchard, was pointed out to me by a gentleman on
board. It is located on one of the most elevated points,
and is distant twelve miles from the river. Its appear
ance is very much that of a small white cloud in the
midst of the heavens, and is in the highest degree wild

10 Notes of a Tour in 1829
and romantic. But I came to the conclusion, after gaz
ing at it a considerable time, that the fatigue of climb
ing to the summit, (more than 2,000 feet high,) would
be infinitely greater than the pleasure which its airy
situation could afford.
After leaving the city of Hudson, the country grad
ually sinks, on each side, and appears in some places
tolerably fertile — but I much prefer looking at, to liv
ing on, such a soil.
We arrived at Albany about eight in the evening:
but, it being dark and rainy, I left the boat immediately,
and took up my abode at Welch's Connecticut Coffee-
House. As the rain kept me in doors, I went to roost
early, and got a comfortable night's rest.
yth. — Got up with the sun, to allow time to survey
the place, as my stay was limited. The first, and in
fact the only object worthy of particular notice, (at
least that I saw,) is the spacious Basin of the great
Clinton Canal — improperly called Erie Canal. This is
formed by a section of the river, taken therefrom by
means of an extensive wharf running parallel with the
shore, about one hundred yards from the same, and in
length about three quarters of a mile, having a lock at
the lower end, to receive and let out vessels of consider
able burden. This wharf, if I may so call it, is about
thirty yards wide, having extensive store-houses built

Through Western New York 11
upon it, from one end to the other. Several bridges
are thrown across the Basin, opposite to some of the
principal streets, in order to facilitate the communica
tion with the wharf. It is truly astonishing to behold
with what ease vessels may be loaded and unloaded.
Albany is certainly in a very thriving condition.
But I did not see one building that could be called a
splendid edifice. Even the state Capitol is nothing
more than a plain, and not very large, but substantial
stone building. Yet its situation is very commanding,
and. embraces a fine view of the greater portion of the
city. There is a very pretty representation of Justice,
on the top of the cupola, holding a pair of scales in her
left hand, and a drawn sword in her right. The other
public buildings that may be thought conspicuous, are,
the Academy, Lancasterian School, and several
churches with handsome steeples. The beauty of the
place is greatly lessened by the many old Dutch build
ings, with their gable ends fronting the streets. But it is
much larger than I had supposed, and upon a general
view, is rather a handsome city than otherwise. The
Hudson at Albany is about as wide as the Delaware at
Trenton, but much deeper.
I had contemplated taking my passage at Albany,
on board a canal boat ; but was dissuaded therefrom in
consequence of the tediousness of the passage, to

12 Notes of a Tour in 1829
Schenectady, having to surmount an elevation of forty
locks, in a distance of twenty-eight miles, and occupy
ing twenty-four hours. I therefore took my seat in the
stage for Schenectady, distance fifteen miles by turn
pike, fare sixty-two cents. There are now running be
tween the two last-named places, upwards of thirty
four-horse stages, (quite a match, if not superior to the
Philadelphia and New York Union line stages,) which
go and return daily, generally well crowded. This may
serve to give an idea of the trade of Albany with the
west. I left the city about ten A. M., making one of
nine tolerably large men, of which, by the way, I must
confess, I was rather more than the average size. Our
course was west, along Washington street, which ex
tends not much short of two miles, thickly set with
houses. After leaving the suburbs of Albany, we en
tered what are called the Pine Plains, but which in jus
tice should be called the Albany Desert — for, of all
miserable, sterile, sandy, barren wastes that ever I be
held, not even excepting Mount Misery, it caps the cli
max. Nor is there a single object to relieve the eye, to
interest the traveller, or to merit attention, until you
arrive at Schenectady, save the uniform straightness of
the turnpike, (which is very good,) and a row of large,
towering Lombardy poplars, about forty feet apart, on
the north side of the road, in a direct line for the whole

Through Western New York 13
distance of fifteen miles. An interesting looking little
boy, who was on the outside seat with the driver, enum
erated them until upwards of 1000, when he grew
somewhat tired, and gave it up as dull sport. I in
quired of a passenger the object of planting them. He
replied that he supposed their roots would be some
security to the road, and prevent its being blown
away ! — and, indeed, there was some reason in his
strange solution, as the open spaces on either side were
drifted in large banks.

Extract No. 2
We arrived at Schenectady about one o'clock. As
all the passengers in our stage were bound to Utica,
one of the number proposed that he be appointed to
bargain for our passage in one boat, as the opposition
run very high, or to speak more correctly, very low on
the canal, and it required some policy, as we were soon
convinced, to avoid imposition. As soon as the stage
stopped at the Hotel, even before the driver with all his
activity to undo the door, up stepped a large muscular
fellow, and bawled out at the highest pitch of polite
etiquette, "Gentlemen, do you go to the West?" "We
do." "The packet starts at 2 o'clock, gentlemen; you
had better take your passages and secure your births;
only 3^2 cents a mile, gentlemen, and two shillings a
meal, with best accommodations, and a very superior
boat, gentlemen." "Hang his boat, gentlemen, don't
take passage in her," said a second fellow. "I'll take
you for less than half the money in a devlish fine
boat, and charge you but a shilling a meal." By
this time there were at least half a dozen more, all
anxious for us to engage our passage with them at
almost any price we pleased. But our Contractor
very properly remarked, that he must "see the boats
himself before he-Avould take passage in any. We
therefore all sallied forth to the canal, which passes at
right angles through the town. We selected a very

16 Notes of a Tour in 1829
superior boat of the Clinton Line, calculated to accom
modate thirty persons. This boat is calculated for car
rying freight, and the cabins are furnished in good
style. The Captain actually engaged to take us to
Utica, a distance of 89 miles, for one cent and a quarter
per mile ! ! a York shilling for each meal extra, and to
make no charge for births, which are a very necessary
accommodation, as the boats run day and night.
"Thinks I to myself" this will make up for the shaved
dried beef, and prepared bread and butter. I had only
time to take a casual peep at Schenectady, but it appears
to be a thriving, pleasant town, and is located princi
pally between the Mohawk and the Canal. Very
few persons take the boats between this place and
Albany, on account of the delay occasioned by the
numerous locks. We "set sail by horse power," as the
Irishman has it, about 2 o'clock P. M., the horses being
attached to a rope about 30 yards long, made fast to
the boat amidships, with our ideas pleasingly elevated
at the thought of traveling on the Grand Clinton Canal
for the first time. The afternoon was cool and pleas
ant, and never was I more delightfully situated as a
traveller than on this occasion. A majority of my com
panions were Western merchants, well informed re
specting the localities and prospects of the country we
were passing through, and ready and willing to give the
required information. The Canal, this afternoon's
passage, has been for the most part immediately on the

Through Western New York 17
south bank of the Mohawk, which flows through a nar
row valley of good land, but the hills on either side,
unlike the Chester county high grounds, have a pov
erty-stricken appearance.
At the close of the twilight we arrived at Schoharie
creek, distant 23 miles from our place of embarkation.
This is the first place of danger I have yet observed.
The creek is about 30 yards wide at this place, and is
crossed by means of ropes stretched across the stream,
which ropes are your only security ; should they give
way, you must inevitably go down the current and pass
over a dam immediately below, of several feet perpen
dicular descent. In times of a freshet it is very dan
gerous. Two or three boats, like the Indians over the
falls of Niagara, have already been forced involuntarily
over it, and so far in safety. The horses are ferried
over in scows, pulled by the same ropes. As darkness
soon covered the face of nature, I retired to the cabin,
and after sketching my observations, and enjoying a
pleasant confab with my fellow travellers, retired to
my birth, while our boat skimmed its peaceful way
along this artificial and wonderful water communica
tion.

Extract No. 3
8th. — I arose early, having but a disturbed rest dur
ing the night, owing to the continued blowing of trum
pets and horns at the approach of every lock, and now
and then a tremendous jar received in passing a boat ;
but there is trie strictest caution and observation of
rules respecting the mode of passage, &c, a precaution
highly important, or, owing to the immense number of
boats, great confusion and no little danger would be
the consequence. The boats on the canal have a beau
tiful appearance at night, being each illuminated by two
large reflecting lamps on either side the bow, which
has much the appearance of a street brilliantly illumi
nated. I endeavored to count the boats which we
passed yesterday, but I soon gave it up for a trouble
some job. On going on deck this morning, I found a
cold air and heavy frost ; we were just passing the vil
lage of Conojoharie, being the most considerable place
since leaving Schenectady. I shall not attempt a de
scription of all the numerous villages growing along
our route, but will in another place give a list of their
names, and distances apart. We are still in the valley
of the Mohawk, which is narrow and fertile, but the
surrounding country has nothing to boast of as to soil.
The river at this place is not, I should suppose, over 50
to 70 yards wide, and is, wherever I have seen it,
chequered with little islands, which give it a pleasing

20 Notes of a Tour in 1829
appearance. The locks and bridges are very numerous,
and it requires great attention and care in passing them,
or you may be knocked down, and rise up without your
head on your shoulders, which, before you can say
"look out," may be in possession of the canal fishes.
The bridges being low — the highest of them not more
than 10 feet above the water, and some not even over
8 feet, while the boat is full seven, we have occasionally
only one foot between the two objects, which hardly
admit a boy to pass under them. The bridges are cheap
structures, being nothing more than two stone abut
ments, having sleepers thrown across the canal covered
with planks, and a handrail on each side. The main
width of the canal at the water line is about 40 feet,
and the locks 25. The captain informs me that six per
sons have lost their lives by being crushed between the
bridges, which is a greater number than have been
killed during the same time by the bursting of steam
engines in the waters of the middle or eastern States.
The locks I shall not attempt to describe, as almost
everybody is familiar with their construction ; they are
simple, very strong, well built, and permanent, being
uniformly about one hundred feet long. Our boat,
which is of a superior class for freight boats, is about
80 feet long by 20 ; the bow and stern are 4 feet lower
than the middle section, which is divided into three
apartments — the two end ones for the accommodation
of passengers, the stern to eat in, and the bow to sleep

Through Western New York 21
and sit in, each about 23 feet long, and sufficiently high
for a six-footer to stand erect with his hat on. The
roof is in the form of the back of a tortoise, and affords
a handsome promenade, excepting when the everlasting
bridges and locks open their mouths for your head.
The centre apartment is appropriated to merchandize.
The only difference between this and a passage or
packet boat, is, that their centre cabins are also for the
accommodation of passengers, and in some instances a
little more expensively finished, and travel at the rate
of 4 miles an hour, while we rarely exceed 3J4, they
with three horses, and we with only two. It is evident
the freight boats very much injure the packets by the
cheapness with which they run, but as they go with
freight, their passage money is clear gain, and competi
tion is the result. The packets pay heavier tolls, and of
course levy it on their cargo of live stock. We really
live well in our little house, and have an obliging cap
tain and steward, with every convenience, but short
necks, that we could ask or desire.
It takes 5 hands to manage a boat of this size : they
are the steward, the helmsman, and two drivers, who
relieve each other as occasion may require : we have
relays of horses every 20 miles, and thus we are gliding
to the West. At 12 A. M. we arrived at the little falls
of the Mohawk, distant 88 miles from our place of
embarkation, and this being the wildest place on the
canal, I shall notice it particularly. The river falls in

22 Notes of a Tour in 1829
less than half a mile 50 feet, by one continued rapid,
which is surrounded by five locks, one directly above
the other. There has evidently been a terrible effort
with the little Mohawk, in days of yore, to break
through the crags of the mountain barrier, which it
evidently has done by the appearance of the rocks,
which are worn away in a variety of forms on all sides.
There being about 20 boats waiting to pass the locks,
which would occupy some time, the captain very polite
ly offered to accompany me to the village situated on
the opposite side of the river, which is crossed by a
very handsome aqueduct of hewn stone, to supply the
canal as a feeder. The village is of considerable size,
with several very pretty buildings, located amongst the
rocks and crags not unlike Mauch Chunk, being quite
destitute of soil. There is a splendid water power at
this place, but the most interesting sight was to see the
fountains which are before almost every house, sup
plied from a rivulet led from the mountains, and which
are spouting in all directions.

Extract No. 4
The rapids at the Little falls are divided just below
the village by an elevated island of everlasting rocks,
which arrests its progress and causes an incessant roar
and foam. The canal for a mile below this spot is a
perfect, encroachment upon the bed of the river — the
wall which divides it from the rive'r is powerful and
strong, that the labor and expense attending its erection
must have been immense. I was shown on the village
side of the river, the old canal and locks by which this
rapid was passed, before the great modern improve
ment was projected. It was constructed more than 30
years since by a company of Englishmen, and was con
sidered at that time a wonderful production of genius.
But when contrasted with the present improvement, it
dwindles into insignificance; the upper section is still
used to supply the feeder, and crosses the aqueduct.
The country still continues poor on both sides, while
the narrow valley of the Mohawk presents very fine
land. The passenger can supply himself with pro
visions and grog at all the lockhouses along the line at a
very low rate. We arrived at 5 o'clock at the long
level commencing at the village of Frankf ord ; the canal
is now one entire uninterrupted sheet of water for 70
miles, without a solitary lock ; we have passed enough
however to suffice for a while, having ascended up
wards of 40 since leaving Schenectady, a distance of 80

24 Notes of a Tour in 1829
miles. Very soon after entering the long reach, which
is the summit level of the canal, the country begins to
assume a different appearance, and the view is not so
confined as heretofore. As the afternoon is a very
pleasant one, the prospect is truly delightful.
We arrived at Utica just at sunset, and found our
water course literally choked up with boats, and as
there was considerable freight on board of ours to be
discharged here, we were notified that she would be
detained about two hours, of which space we deter
mined to avail ourselves by taking a peep at the town,
all agreeing to continue our voyage with the obliging
Captain and steward. Accordingly, we stepped on
shore, and took a bird's eye view of the attractions of
the place. As I never had heard much said respecting
this same town of Utica, I was truly astonished, and
not a little pleased with it. Setting aside delightful
Philadelphia, New York, and Baltimore, (I always
place Philadelphia first on my list of pleasant cities,)
I never saw so many fine buildings in any other town.
It is really a beautiful place, and to my apprehension
is not much smaller than Albany ; I doubt whether the
famed Rochester will equal it. The streets are many
of them very wide, being at right angles, nearly in a
direction North, South, East and West, with the excep
tion of State street, which runs in an oblique direction,
and appears to be the Broadway of Utica, and truly
for two or three squares it is in no respect inferior to

Through Western New York 25
that celebrated avenue of New York. There is an ele
gant church in the place, with a handsome steeple of
great altitude, observable from a great distance. The
Mohawk runs immediately on the north side of the
place, and the canal directly through the centre. Noth
ing can exceed the facility with which boats are loaded
and discharged. There is a walk on each side of the
canal about 10 feet wide ; a boat stops opposite a store,
a tackle descends from an upper story, which by means
of a rope and windlass within the building, managed
by one man, can raise and lower heavy weights with
wonderful despatch. I should have wished to have re
mained in this charming place for a longer period, but
was propelled forward by persuasion. We left Utica
at 10 P. M. and the ear was saluted from a great dis
tance up and down the canal by the music of bugles,
horns and trumpets, some of the boatmen sounding
their instruments most sweetly. After enjoying these
sounds for some time, I tumbled into my birth to par
take of the necessary blessing of a nap.
gth — I awoke about sunrise and ascended our deck ;
there had been another heavy frost. We were just
passing Bull fort, and had entered the Black Snake, so
called from the serpentine course of the canal. We
have passed, during the night, Whitesborough, Oris-
kany, and Rome, three mushroom villages, which, with
many others, have sprung up as with the magic of
Aladdin's lamp. We had now before us, with a few

26 Notes of a Tour in 1829
exceptions, one uninterrupted white pine and hemlock
swamp for something like 20 miles, and really it looks
to me as if you might cut and haul wood and logs to
eternity without exhausting the supply. The country
looks perfectly level, and in many places judging from
the white clover and blue-grass which cover the shores
of the canal, must be fertile, though its appearance
would not indicate a healthy location for man. As we
approached Canistoto, which by the way is but three
years old, and a considerable place, we observed the
country to be settled partially on both sides, the soil
being dark and deep, was thickly covered with stumps
and rich grass. In the course of the last 10 miles, we
have passed several squads of Onondaga and Oneida
Indians carrying baskets, brooms, hunting apparatus,
&c. I could not but think of their once numerous
hordes, now no more, save a few scattered remnants
of their wandering tribes, having scarcely a spot which
they can call their own. Placing myself for a moment
in their situation, it made me feel sad, and I could but
exclaim with Burns, "Man's inhumanity to man makes
countless thousands mourn!" Among these numbers
were frequently seen little children, and we diverted
ourselves for miles together in making them run after
the packet, by occasionally throwing out a cent, which
made great scratching and scrabbling to see who would
get it. We could not prevail on them to converse by
the offer of any bribe whatever.

Extract No. 5
As we passed Manlius, the canal runs on the North
side of the high bank for near two miles, which
opened to view many apparently inexhaustible quarries
of plaster, which is said to be of superior quality. We
also passed, soon after, Green Lake, a pretty sheet of
water, which has been sounded for 400 feet without
discovering bottom.
At six o'clock we arrived at what may be called one
of the wonders of this part of the world — the exten
sive salt establishment, belonging to the state, situated
immediately at the head of Onondaga Lake. Here are
located the villages of Syracuse, Salina, and Geddes-
burg, all within a mile of each other ; the first and last
are on the canal, and Salina a little to the north, but
fairly in view, connected by a short feeder. Syracuse
is in a very prosperous condition. It was a very agree
able and novel sight to me to behold at this place up
wards of 200 acres actually covered with vats filled
with salt water in the act of evaporation. The process
is very simple, and I shall not therefore attempt a de
scription. The quantity of salt sent to market from
this shop is immense. The salt water is obtained from
two springs or wells, and is pumped by water power
obtained from the canal, carried through horizontal
logs in every direction for a half a mile to a mile and
a-half, to supply the vats. As we passed the lake we

28 A'otes of a Tour in 1829
had a fine view of it, which was very beautiful viewed
from our elevation of 50 feet above it. Soon after
leaving this place it become dusk, and I took to my
couch. 10th — The Captain called me at peep of day, to say
I was near my place of landing. I had scarcely time to
equip myself before it was necessary to jump ashore,
and I soon found myself on the road to Auburn, dis
tant 9 miles — stage fare 25 cents only. The country is
rather hilly and stony for easy culture, but tolerably
improved. I arrived at Auburn just in time to take
stage for Canandaigua, distant 40 miles — fare $1.50,
which is an extensive town, but the canal route has
drained it of considerable business. Here is located
the state prison for the western section of New York —
an establishment for the study of Theology, and a
handsome building called the Western exchange, for
the accommodation of travellers. Twelve of us left
here on our stage, myself and another small man sitting
outside, which in fine weather, is considered, by uni
versal consent of all stage jokes, the best seat in the
coach. Cayuga, nine miles, was our first stage ; it is 3
miles above the outlet of the lake, and is a smart vil
lage. We here crossed the Lake by a bridge a mile and
a quarter long, supported by piles, being one of the
longest, but not the handsomest, bridge in the Union.
On passing this famous bridge, over which some of us
walked, we had a fine view of the South, as far as the

Through Western New York 29
eye could reach over this fine expanse of water, which
was as clear as chrystal. Three miles further we ar
rived at Seneca, where is a smart town. Five miles
beyond is Waterloo, a considerable place. Our route
has been on the Seneca river, affording several fine
scites for mills. Nine miles further brought us to the
outlet of the Seneca Lake ; the last two miles being on
the beach at its termination, being in the form of a
semi-circle, or half-moon; from which we had a most
delightful view of the town of Geneva, which is situ
ated on the Western side, on the declivity of a fine,
commanding eminence. We arrived at Geneva, which
is second in beauty to any yet seen. After dinner, as
the stage did not immediately go, I went to different
positions of the town, to look up the delightful Lake,
and enjoy, I hope not for the last time, the charming
view. Here is located another Theological Seminary,
and other public institutions. We left at half past two,
and arrived at half past five o'clock. It is situated at
the outlet of the lake of the same name, and resembles
Geneva, which having just left, bore the palm away
from Canandaigua, which is, however, a handsome vil
lage, being the county town of Ontario. We stopped
at a spacious hotel, from which there is a commanding
view of the Lake. I never saw half so much good land
in one day; in fact that which we have passed is all
good. I did not pass in the whole distance of 50 miles,
from Weeds' Basin, a solitary piece of woodland nearer

30 Notes of a Tour in 1829
the road than from one quarter to a half mile, and saw
very few stumps. This is called the back-woods, out-
of-the-world, society, and so on, and I am told it will
continue thus to Buffalo, a succession of well-improved
farms, with some of them having quite elegant build
ings. It is a fact that wood has become scarce. At
Canandaigua are two fine churches, two banks, (one
too many at least,) two fine hotels, a court-house, jail,
large steam-mill, &c. &c. It resembles Princeton, situ
ated principally on one wide street, and is about as
large.

Extract No. 6
nth — I was awakened about midnight by the land
lord, and informed that the great Western Mail, which
was to carry me to Buffalo, was ready, on which I rose,
paid my fare — $3 — and was crowded as usual, with
eight others, into a comfortable stage. I had not much
opportunity of seeing the country, but was informed
it was as highly improved as what I had seen yesterday.
At Avon Post Office we crossed the Genesee, by a sub
stantial covered bridge, and entered upon the Indian
reservation, extending three miles, being the first land
since leaving Weedsborough, distant 75 miles, which
was not improved and thickly inhabited. It is held by
a tribe of Senecas, and with the exception of partial
clearings, is almost in a state of nature. Le Roy, on
our route, is a very sweet place, nearly new. Batavia
is the capital of Genessee county, and is a fine town,
having much taste about it. After leaving this town,
we passed the Tonewanta Creek, and passed Pembroke,
at the distance of fourteen miles. This is not much of a
place. At 8 miles further, we passed Clarence, pretty
much of the same stamp. The country since leaving
Batavia to this place, is low meadow land, in the pos
session of the Pioneers of the land, and looks more
like what is generally supposed in my county, to be the
appearance of this clime generally, than any I have
seen; but there is no mistake about the soil's being

32 Notes of a Tour in 1829
good — tho' I should rather suppose it to be unhealthy,
as the Natives are very dirty and beastly. After leav
ing Clarence at the distance of 8 miles, Williamstown
makes its appearance. Here is a good water power, on
a stream that I did not ascertain the name of, running
into the Tonewanta. After leaving this place, the
country assumes a fine, rich, pleasant aspect, devoid of
trees or stumps, and ornamented with fine, well culti
vated farms, with rich waving fields of grain, and ele
gant orchards in full bloom ; but there must be, judging-
from the number of orchards, no scarcity of fruit in
this country. Further, 6 miles — which is short of Buf
falo 4 miles — we ascended a considerable eminence,
and from the summit, I, for the first time in my life.
had an extensive view of king George's dominions in
the Western World. Erie was distinctly seen on the
left, and Niagara on the right, and the town of Buffalo
full in view before us. From this point the road ascends
by a beautiful slope in a straight line till we arrived at
the town of Buffalo, which we effected about 5 o'clock,
P. M. I cannot say that I admire the country, speaking
generally, for the last forty miles after leaving Batavia
— nor do I think it is sufficiently watered, and, by the
by, that which I tasted, I never wish to taste more, as
it set my bowels in an uproar prodigiously, to my great
inconvenience and pain. And now for Buffalo, the
Frontier town entirely destroyed during the late war.
It is fully as large as Burlington, and finished in the

Through Western New York 33
finest style. It has (so it is said,) the finest Court
House and house of entertainment in the state — and
from viewing them, I have no reason to doubt the say
ing. The said Inn is the one at which I put up; and
the Hall and apartments are really finished and fur
nished superbly. Yet, like most such houses, the eat
ing is nothing to boast of — and the charges are cer
tainly -fine. This place supports six extensive Hotels
and a Theatre. There are three Churches — one of
which is an ornament to this, and would be to any place.
Its situation is certainly pleasant, being at the head of
the Great Lake; but nothing to compare with Geneva.
Here the Grand Canal terminates by another spacious
Basin, filled with boats.
I took a walk, as it was a pleasant evening, the wind
blowing fresh up the lake — down to the Buck. But
instead of the smooth and beautiful expanse of the
Cayuga, Seneca, and Canandaigua, was heard the roar
of the Atlantic. The surf dashed against the shore
with violence, and the breakers advanced and receded
in rapid succession — and it was to me almost irrecon
cilable that it was nothing but Lake Erie. I counted
something like 30 vessels of considerable size at the
wharves, for navigating this fresh water sea. And to
make the matter short, Buffalo is a brisk and pleasant
place. And now, whether I am credited or not, I state
it as a fact, independent and absolute — that the dis
tance from Weedsport to Batavia is 100 miles — that

34 Notes of a Tour in 1829
it is as thickly settled on each side of the road as far as
can be seen, as is the road from New York to Philadel
phia, being about the same distance — that the towns
and villages are as much finer and neater, as the land is
better — and that there are 10 trees and stumps along
the latter, where there is one along the former, — and as
to scenery, the odds are so much in favor of the former,
that I cannot, nor will not, attempt to compare them.

Extract No. 7
I left Buffalo on the 12th in the stage for Niagara
Falls, or Manchester, distant from Buffalo twenty-
three miles, fare one dollar. For the first time since I
set out, I had plenty of room, as there were but six in
the stage. We came to Black Rock in one and a half
miles — it is a smart place, but never can equal Buffalo.
I was here informed that a passage could be procured
to Waterloo, in Upper Canada, on the opposite side,
whence a stage runs to Chippewa. But as the current
flows at the rate of nine miles an hour towards the
great falls, I declined the experiment. The canal passes
directly by the side of the river, until you arrive at the
village of Tontawanto, distant twelve miles, where it
takes the creek, by being dammed at its mouth. This
place is near the Indian village of the same name, and
is truly a low, dirty, and savage-looking town — so the
sooner I leave it, the better. Our road has been, and
still continues along the banks of the rapid Niagara.
But of all the roads I have ever seen, travelled, or
heard of, this comes nearer to shaking soul out of body
than any other.
Grand Island commences six miles below Buffalo,
and continvies twelve miles, by seven wide. This is the
spot that Major Noah purchased of the state to settle
all the wandering Jews — a project which has not yet
succeeded. Below Grand Island is Navy Island, about

36 Notes of a Tour in 1829
three miles in length ; after leaving which you have a
splendid view of the great river just preparing to make
the lover's leap and wed Ontario — and shall I, like
many others, and as certain to fail, like them, attempt
to describe this mighty cataract ? But let me first see it.
When within four miles of Manchester, we dis
tinctly heard the troubled waters, and saw the ascend
ing clouds of spray. At last we came opposite the
rapids, one mile above the pitch, when I had enough to
do to sit still and stare in mute astonishment and admi
ration. Having arrived at the inn at Manchester about
1 1 o'clock, taking no notice of the village, I immediately
called for a room, deposited my trunk, clenched my um
brella, (for it rains here eternally,) and sallied out to
see that which is truly said to be worth a voyage across
the Atlantic to behold. I first went to the great pitch,
then down the steps to the bottom of the great abyss,
and gazed with wonder and astonishment — got pretty
wet, and ascended in a fine perspiration. This was the
first time in my life that I thought my eyes too small.
However, I stretched them as wide as they would well
bear, and they partially answered my purpose. Next
I started for the bridge across to Goat Island, about
two hundred and fifty yards long, under which the
mighty waters dash and roar as if heaven and earth
were invited guests to the great marriage of waters, so
soon to take place. The thought was irresistible, that
if the bridge beneath me were by any sudden mishap

Through Western New York 37
to give way, I should certainly go to the wedding also.
But I got over safely, and found the island quite a
pleasant promenade. I was not long in crossing it to
take a peep at the great Canadian Horse-shoe. On
this side of the island is also erected another bridge, to
the distance of about sixty or seventy yards in length,
from rock to rock, on the very verge of the terrible
precipice. By what unearthly magic this bridge was
erected at this awful spot, is not to my purpose to in
quire — but there it was, and again the thought passed
across my mind, whether I should venture to its further
extreme. For a moment, fear caused me to pause —
yet in another I resolved to try my fate. Alas ! should
a foot have slipped, (and it was very wet,) I must have
bid farewell to earth, if not to water. When I reached
the 'further extreme of the bridge and looked below,
Almighty Heaven! before thee, in all thy unspeakable
grandeur, and in this awful situation, what a poor, de
pendent, finite being did I feel myself to be ! and, to be
serious — for no man can feel otherwise here — I defy
all the painters — all the poets — all the tourists — and in
fact all mankind, to give to one who has not already
seen this awfully magnificent scene, the most faint im
pression of its sublime and terrible reality. It is far
away beyond human apprehension to delineate, how
ever imperfectly, its bare profile. It is one of the few
objects which cannot be proportioned; and nothing
short of actual observation of the awful reality, can

38 Notes of a Tour in 1829
afford any satisfaction to the inquiring mind. It is in
deed the work of God.
To account for the source of the vast stream of
water which is constantly tumbling over the falls, seems
extremely difficult. It never varies, but is eternally
the same. You cannot change your situation twenty
rods in any way, but its features vary materially.
Hence arises the difficulty of making a good general
likeness. I had heard and read a great deal of the
Horse-shoe falls, but there is now no similitude of one
to be seen. Its appearance is more in the form of a
flat-iron, or the letter V, with the point up stream. It
is said, and I have no doubt of its truth, that the view
of the Horse-shoe falls is by far the grandest and most
imposing ; but it requires some nerve to venture thereon
and look below. Goat Island contains about seventy
acres, is very heavily timbered, and belongs to Judge
Porter, who bought it at $10 per acre. Between it and
the American shore are several other small islands;
and the Goat-island-bridge, as it is called, is thrown
first on one of these, and thence to the island itself.
A very extensive paper mill is built upon the island
on which the bridge first rests. If Judge Porter were
disposed to sell out his purchase, he could doubtless
realize a profit of a thousand per cent upon his seventy
acres. You are charged twenty-five cents for the use

Through Western New York 39
of the bridge during your stay, for which you cross as
often as you please. On the island is kept a collection
of minerals, petrefactions, &c. being a sort of museum,
of which the toll-gatherer is proprietor. He makes
it a matter of conscience to charge pretty roundly for
any you may purchase, as they are said to be collected
under and about the falls — and as every person wishes
to carry home some trophy of his visit, I presume the
museum is a very profitable concern.
Having enjoyed an excellent night's repose, lulled
by the roaring of the cataract, I rose early on the morn
ing of the 13th, and hoisting my window, enjoyed a
beautiful view of the rapids, which, independent of the
falls, are a sublime spectacle. After breakfast I made
up my mind, in spite of a heavy rain, to cross over and
drink a health to old King George, and for other pur
poses. I therefore again descended the almost perpen
dicular staircase, paid my ferriage, entered a small
boat, and in a twinkling was in the midst of the waters,
enveloped in the surrounding spray. The waters here,
like a violent, angry man, having vented all his fury,
become comparatively tranquil, and susceptible of so
cial and agreeable intercourse. The river, which, above
the falls, is nearly a mile in width, becomes suddenly
contracted to about a fourth of that distance. While
crossing, the story of the Indian having descended the

40 Notes of a Tour in 1829
cataract in safety, occurred to me ; and I at once pro
nounced the author destitute of truth. It is utterly im
possible. The view, while crossing the river, is obscured in a
considerable degree by the surrounding spray ; but the
sound is almost deafening, and on placing my thumbs
to my ears, and shutting my eyes for a minute, then
suddenly opening them, and unstopping my ears, the
effect almost amounted to stunning. Our landing on
the opposite shore was soon effected, when the first
thing I did was to take off my hat and drink, from a
little mountain spring, a health to King George, but
accompanied with various important qualifications. I
ascended by a rough road, nearly completed, for the
purpose of having a ferry to cross by a horse-boat, and
after pulling and blowing, attained the top of the emi
nence, whencevI proceeded to the Table Rock. I gazed,
as usual, with astonishment, paid a shilling and went
down the perpendicular ladder, or rather winding stair
case, to the dreadful abyss below. I must here confess,
that although I was yesterday heroic enough to go to the
extreme of the Horse-shoe bridge, actually on the very
verge of the precipice, and in the midst of the descend
ing torrent, a spot terrible in comparison in point of
danger, with that now before me, yet I was now afraid
to venture under the sheet. The situation of the bridge

Through Western New York 41
on which I had so recently stood, hung, as it were, over
me, and until that moment I had no conception of its
dangerous location. Having satisfied my curiosity, I
ascended the tedious staircase, and proceeded, con
ducted by a guide, to the spot on which was fought the
memorable battle of Lundy's Lane, distant a short half
mile. But there was nothing remarkable to be seen.
The ground was free from the stain of blood, though
the grass waved in rank luxuriance, fertilized, no
doubt, by the blood of those brave men who perished
in that sanguinary struggle. A sigh involuntarily rose
to their memory, as I thought upon the ravages of war
— cut myself a cane from the well contested field, and
returning to the boat, bid farewell to Canada.
Before I leave the Great Falls, I may observe, that,
having seen them from every accessible situation, I am
satisfied that the best general view of them is from the
Table Rock ; though the finest and most terrific view of
the Horse-shoe falls is from the bridge on the north
side of the island, and the line and periphery of the
pitch is best seen from the precipice of the island. Be
low, all is roar and deafening sound, while the spray,
constantly rising, obscures in a great measure the sight.
Manchester is one of the finest water-powers upon
earth. Several manufactories are already established,
and more are building.

42 Notes of a Tour in 1829
While seated on a bench, taking my last look of the
Falls, "Farewell," said I, "magnificently grand and
awfully sublime Niagara ; although I never shall never
behold thee more, yet will the appearance of thy re
markable visage, and the thunder of thy agitated
waters, never be forgotten while existence remains."
And the reflection of having seen one of the grandest
works that nature's God ever produced, will be at least
comfortable. I arose, ascended the summit, and left
the scene.

Extract No. 8
I had left Niagara on the afternoon of the 13th,
and took stage for Lewistown, distance seven miles,
fare thirty seven cents. After leaving this place, you
pass near by the great gulf, which is torn from a level
country to an immense depth, all the way to Lewistown.
Its course is very winding, and the rapidity of the cur
rent is wonderful. There is no doubt in my mind but
that the original scite of this huge water-fall was at
the latter town, for here terminates very abruptly the
high table land through which this deep-cut is rent and
torn. The country between these two places is level —
and nothing more can be said in its favor. The road
is intolerable, and the people look savage. Just before
we arrived at Lewistown, as I observed before, we de
scended a very high hill, down which the road is truly
dangerous, and at whose base the town is handsomely
situated. On the Canada side, directly opposite, is
Queenstown, full in view. It forms a pretty cluster of
houses, all built since the late war, as the town was
burnt by the British, as well as Buffalo. From the inn
at which we stopped is a fine view of the colossal monu
ment of General Brock, situated on the heights of
Queenstown. It is formed of a round column, rising
130 feet high, terminated by an appropriate emblem.

44 Notes of a Tour in 1829
It is erected within a few rods of the spot where this
brave officer fell, and must have cost no small trifle to
the king.
We arrived at this place about half after three in
the afternoon of a rainy and disagreeable day. There
is something truly grand all along the frontier as far as
I have seen it. But great nations should have great
landmarks. Towards evening I walked down to the
river, which is but a short distance, but having spent its
wrath, and left the upper region, as it were, it gradually
expands, and flows quietly to wed its destined bride,
Ontario. I could distinctly see the very spot on which
poor Brock fell, for it was pointed out by a white-
painted post, standing a few rods from the monumental
column. It was from this height immediately opposite
where I stood, that the British troops surprised our
brave soldiers while taking a refreshment, and rushed
upon them with such terrible fury as to cause them to
leap the precipice, the first pitch of which is nearly 100
feet, surrounded by huge crags and rocks. But there
was no alternative — for death behind them, by the
bayonet, was sure. Many of these poor fellows were
killed by the leap, while others clung to the rocks and
there received the balls of the enemy, who, with delib
erate aim, amused themselves by sending them into
the dreadful abyss below. The thought that the theatre

Through Western New York 45
of this dreadful carnage was before me, caused me to
shudder and cry aloud, "O the merciless horrors of
war !"
On the morning of the 14th I was called up early
to take stage for Rochester, distant eighty miles, fare
$3.25. We started at 5 o'clock, six of us, and arrived
at the wonderful mushroom of the west at 5 in the
afternoon, over the great ridge road, the finest I have
ever travelled. This road is truly remarkable. It seems
to me that when old mother Nature, after having per
fected the gigantic cataract originally begun at Lewis-
town, was so tickled and delighted with her production,
that she resolved to make a pathway for the children of
men to come and see her prodigy — accordingly she
went to work and made this beautiful turnpike of from
eight to twelve rods wide, of hard gravel and sand,
through a low country of swamp and clay — and said to
the children of men, "Travel, behold and wonder!"
But, to speak seriously upon the subject, I should say
that when the falls were at Lewistown, this remarkable
natural turnpike was the shore and beach of Ontario,
as the whole of the land lying between it and the lake
is low and swampy. Its direction is in form of a curve,
and parallel to the lake shore. Its elevation above the
land on either side is from ten to thirty feet, and is per
fectly hard, and free from stones and ruts,

46 Notes of a Tour in 1829
This indeed seems to be the country of the greats
and the grands. Here we have the Grand Clinton
Canal, the Great Western Turnpike, the Great and
Grand Falls of Niagara, the Great Lakes, the scites of
the Great Battles, the Great Ridge Road, and many
others that I have not seen.
After leaving Lewistown for some miles, for the
first time in my life I saw some woodland — all that I
had heretofore seen, when compared to this, was brush
wood. In the first place, there were thousands of trees
,of all sizes down and rotting, while those that were
standing, were many of them 100 feet high, and from
6 to 8 feet in diameter, with occasionally a sapling of
3 feet in diameter by 80 feet high ! Taking the whole
of this road, it presents pretty nearly what I had sup
posed this country to be generally, as it was for the
most part in possession of the pioneers, chequered with
stumps, log cabins, and towering girdled trees, with
fine wheat growing in the middle. It was matter of
surprise to me how any person could winter in some
of their rude dwellings and wretched hovels. The vil
lages on this road are Hartland, Oak Orchard, Gaines,
and Clarkson, all thriving little places.
Rochester. — I arose early, as usual, and found a de
lightful morning. After breakfast I spent several hours
in rambling through and about this town of rapid
growth. There is no great beauty about it, and at this
time I consider it a dirty place. All the streets are

Through Western New York 47
filled with mud and rubbish. Building is the order of
the day, but there are few houses in the place which
can be called handsome ; and even the best are nothing
to what I have seen in the other towns. Yet when its
natural advantages are considered, I know no place
which can compare with it. Patterson and Brandywine
are very far behind it. It is calculated for as many
mills as there are spots to place them, and the water
can be used five or six times within the distance of a
mile. Water seems to be made to do every thing here.
The blacksmiths have become so lazy that they even
make it blow their bellows. There is an oil mill at this
place, calculated for sixteen runs of stones, eight of
which are now in operation ; with many others having
six, seven and eight, all in complete operation. Several
manufactories and mills for different purposes are now
building; and I have no hesitation in saying, that al
though Rochester can never be a handsome town,
owing principally to its low situation, yet I believe it
will see the time, perhaps very soon, when no place in
the Union can exceed it in point of variety and manu
factures. I shall say no more of the town, but will
endeavor faintly to describe the water power.
The Genessee river falls, making a deep cut from
what may be called the upper to the lower country, as
there is no hill on either side of the river, as at Niagara,
two hundred feet in less than a mile. The first fall is a
perpendicular pitch of fifteen feet, above which is an

48 Notes of a Tour in 1829
artificial dam, whence all the water now used is taken.
This is succeeded by a rapid for a short distance, when
the whole bed of the river makes a tremendous leap of
ninety feet perpendicular, forming a splendid rainbow,
after which there is a gradual current for half a mile.
Then, as if determined to make another desperate
effort, it suddenly becomes much agitated, gives an
other bound of sixty feet perpendicular, becomes quiet
and good-natured, and smoothly flows to Lake On
tario. Had I not just seen Niagara, I should have con
sidered this a wonderful spectacle. The river is about
as large as the Schuylkill at Fair Mount. But the most
wonderful work of man I have yet seen in one spot
since I left home, is the acqueduct crossing the river at
this place, supported by eight stone arches. This must
have been a work of time, and patience, and immense
cost. There are also three bridges crossing the river,
but they are nothing uncommon. The land around
Rochester appears to be of the very first quality, and
every thing is in uproar and confusion.
I left Rochester about dark for Montezuma, sixty-
five miles, fare one cent and a quarter per mile, and a
shilling a meal.
The morning of the 16th was fine and clear, and
the country we were passing when I came on deck,
was wild and but little settled. We had passed in the
night the villages of Pittsford, Bushnell's, and Ful-
man's. The land some miles before we arrived at

Through Western New )'ork 49
Palmyra, which is a considerable place, assumes a fine
and fertile appearance, being considerably cleared, and
looking flourishing and healthy. About noon we passed
the village of Newark, thirty-seven miles east of Roch
ester. It is a very interesting and thriving place. After
passing it there is a great sameness until you arrive
near Lyons, the county town of Wayne. Lyons is
finely elevated, and looks well. There is no other place
of much size until you reach Montezuma, which is situ
ated on the east side of the great marshes of the Seneca
river, which are about six miles wide. The canal is
here made to correspond in height with the river, which
is about a mile wide, having apparently no current. The
tow-path is composed of a bridge supported by piles.
over which the horse passes. This place though trans
acting much business, can never, in my opinion, be
either healthy or handsome, owing to its low, marshy
situation. We arrived here about midnight— when I
found my way, as speedily as possible, to the first tav
ern, glad to retire to a comfortable bed.
There is a very pretty eminence near Montezuma,
on the top of which is built a pleasant seat, command
ing a fine prospect of the adjacent country. I took
passage in the hack which runs from this place to
Cayuga, on the east side of the lake of the same name,
at the Long Bridge. Distance seven miles, fare thirty
seven cents. In traveling these seven miles you go
pretty much on the bank of Seneca & river canal. The

50 Notes of a Tour in 1829
river is the outlet not only of the Seneca, but also of the
Cayuga lake, and the canal answers a common purpose
for both. Along this river is an immense body of
marsh, which if ever drained, will be equal to any
meadows in the world.
We arrived at Cayuga about ten o'clock, when I
was obliged to wait for the Ithaca steamboat, which
plies up and down the lake daily. It did not arrive until
I had ample time to look round and enjoy the interest
ing place. On board the steamboat I had the most in
teresting passage for about twenty-five miles that can
well be imagined. The scenery on either side of the
lake is indeed beautiful. The land rises with a gradual
slope from the water's edge, until it attains the height
of perhaps 600 feet, when it becomes pleasantly un
even. Farms in high state of cultivation, add greatly
to the beauty of the prospect. Ten miles from our
starting place we passed the village of Aurora on our
left. It is one of the sweetest little spots that can possi
bly be imagined, and reminded me of Moore's descrip
tion of some of the eastern Cashmerian villas. At night
I was put ashore at Keeder's Ferry, a wretched place,
twenty-five miles from Cayuga.
On the morning of the 19th I crossed the beautiful
lake in a skiff. Its bosom was smooth as a mirror, and
the water clear as the surrounding atmosphere. The

Through Western New York 51
lake is here three miles wide; and for the whole dis
tance it seemed as if we were suspended in the very air.
On the 20th, after having visited a relative in North-
ville, about two miles from the spot where I crossed,
I got into the stage for Ithaca, distance twenty-one
miles, fare seventy-five cents. For the first four miles
the country is fine ; it then becomes stony, hilly, and less
productive. The village of Ludlow, distant ten miles
from Northville, is situated in a very deep hollow,
through which runs a mountain stream of singular
beauty, and creating a fine water power It makes a
perpendicular pitch of about fifty feet, just above the
village, and has a very wild and angry appearance.
Ludlow is a charming place, possessing a most capti
vating society. Here are several mills; and, though
situated as it were, in the depths, and entirely out of
the way, it does considerable business. After leaving
this place, it was nothing but up and down hill until we
reached Ithaca. Just before we entered the town, we
passed a very wild water fall of sixty feet, produced
by the Fall Creek emptying into the lake.
Ithaca is situated at the head of Cayuga lake, sur
rounded on three sides by high hills, and ranks at least
second in point of business, and fourth in size, among
the towns of this western world. But it never can be
come a handsome place. It has a valuable water power

52 Notes of a Tour in 1829
from Fall Creek, already occupied by several mills and
factories. The village is about as large as Trenton,
and appears to be growing rapidly.
On the 21st, at daylight, I left Ithaca in the New
York line, crammed as usual, with eight others in the
coach. Immediately after leaving Ithaca, we ascended
a hill nine hundred feet in height, and, strange as it
may seem, we entered a hollow, and descended all the
way to Owego, distance twenty-nine miles, with un
cultivated hills on both sides. The land in this narrow
valley appeared tolerably good, but principally in the
hands of pioneers. We reached Owego, the capital of
Broome County, at 11 o'clock. It is handsomely sit
uated on the Susquehanna, which is here crossed by a
bridge, and is a thriving little place. We now crossed
the river, and started for Montrose, distant thirty-one
miles — and now I may safely say we arrived at the
back woods. All that appears to have been done here
by man, is the making of a very bad road up and down
tremendous hills — the rest is nature in her roughest
and most repulsive appearance. There are but few
houses on the road, (and those scarcely deserve that
name,) until you approach Montrose. For the greater
part of the distance it is an immense forest of white-
pine and hemlock, looking in the highest degree savage
and uncivilized — so that I was glad to reach Montrose,
which we accomplished about five o'clock, distance
sixty miles. Montrose is the county town, and indeed

Through Western Nezv York 53
I may safely say it is all the town of Susquehanna
County worth any notice.
On the morning of the 23d, at two o'clock, I took
my seat in the U. S. mail stage for Nazareth, distant
one hundred and five miles, fare five dollars and a half.
The country for the first twenty-two miles, until you
reach Tunkhannock, is very similar to the last day's
ride, very hilly and sterile. After passing Tunkhan
nock, the road for about fifteen miles is mostly along
the Susquehanna, on the side of the mountains, run
ning on a shelf, which, in some places, is four hundred
feet above the water, and is rather dangerous. After
leaving this narrow road, we opened into the fair Val
ley of Wyoming. This is by far the most delightful
valley I ever saw, being exceedingly fertile and highly
picturesque. Mountains surround it on all sides, and
cultivated farms are constantly occurring, while the
noble river meanders through the very centre. It is the
spot on which so many brave fellows were massacred
in the revolution. We passed the battle ground ; and
the identical spot was pointed out to us by a passenger
who resided in the neighborhood, where the unfortu
nate individuals were interred, within fifty yards of the
road. We arrived at Wilkesbarre at two o'clock. This
place is located on the east bank of the Susquehanna,
near the foot of the mountain, and though celebrated
even in song for its romantic beauty, I was disappoint
ed in its appearance. It is not so large as I had sup-

54 Notes of a Tour in 1829
posed; yet it is a clean little place, having many good
buildings, and a very interesting society. Immediately
on leaving it we plunged into a wild and desolate moun
tainous region, extending thirty miles — and yet there
are many beautiful lakes on the very summit of the
hills, said to be permanent. About ten miles from
Wilkesbarre we came to the Shades of Death, a hide
ous place, calculated to awaken feelings of the gloom
iest kind. We passed Stoddardtsville, composed of a
few desolate looking houses on the terrible height. At
the Lehigh, which is here quite small, there is a mill,
though now partly fallen down. How it is supplied
with grain in that dreary region, I am utterly unable
to conjecture. At length over this mountainous coun
try, and its intolerable log roads, we put up at Pokono
for the night, distant eighty miles from Montrose.
We descended the Pokono on the morning of the
24th, at two o'clock — and I can truly say I never had
a ride which caused me so much uneasiness ; for it was
steep as a house-roof, and I could not see the road for
the fog, so gave myself up to the mercy of the driver.
We got down safe, passed the Wind Gap, and arrived
at Nazareth, distant twenty-five miles. Nazareth is a
pleasant little place, peopled by a most amiable com
munity. I left it next morning for Easton, distant
seven miles, and by night was at my own door.
Annexed is a list of places through which my jour
ney lay, with their distances — which may possibly be

Through Western New York 55
useful in directing some who are desirous of spending
three weeks in traveling over the most interesting por
tion of the Union.
Outward. — New York, 90 miles; Albany, 160;
Schenectady, 16; Amsterdam, 16; Schoharie Creek, 7;
Canawaga, 4; Sparkers, 3; Canajoharie, 3 ; Fort Plain,
16; Little Falls, 12; Frankford, 10; Utica, 4; Whites-
borough, 3 ; Oriskany, 8 ; Rome, 7 ; New London, 4 ;
Oneida Creek, 5 ; Conastota, 4; New Boston, 4; Chitti -
nings, 8 ; Manlius, 9 ; Syracuse, 8 ; Nine Mile Creek, 6
Canton, 6 ; Jordan, 6 ; Weedsport, 3 ; Auburn, 10
Cayuga Bridge, 9; Seneca Falls, 3; Waterloo, 5
Geneva, 6; Canandaigua, 16; E. Bloomfield, 9; W. do
5 ; Lima, 4 ; E. Avon, 5 ; Avon P. O., 2 ; Caledonia, 8
Le Roy, 6 ; Batavia, 1 1 ; Pembroke, 14 ; Clarence, 8
Williamsville, 8 ; Buffalo, 10 ; Black Rock, 3 ; Tone-
wanto, 9 ; Niagara Falls, 1 1 ; Lewistown, 7.
Returning. — Rochester, 90; Pittsford, 10; Bush-
nells, 3; Fulmans, 3; Palmyra, 13; Port-Gilron, 5;
Newark, 3 ; Lyons, 7 ; Clyde, 9 ; Montezuma, 1 1 ; Ca
yuga, 10; Aurora, 15; Keeder's Ferry, 10; Nashville,
12; Ludlowville, 11 ; Ithaca, 12; Owego, 60; Montrose,
30; Tunkhannock, 21 ; Wilkesbarre, 30; Stoddartsville,
15; Pokono, 15; Wind Gap, 15; Nazareth, 10; Easton,
7; Newtown, 41.

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