THE STRANGER'S GUIDE AND HISTOKICAL & BIOGRAPHICAL HAND-BOOK TO OXFORD, FROM THE EARLIEST AGES TO THE PRESENT TIME. CONTAINING A DESCRIPTION OF THE COLLEGES, HALLS, PUBLIC BUILDINGS, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE DEESSES, DEGEEES, MAMEES, AND CUSTOMS OE THE MEMBEES OE THE UNIVERSITY; TO WHICH IS ADDED A DESCRIPTION OF BLENHEIM, THE ROMAN VILLA, AND SHOTOVER HOUSE. OXFORD: PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY F. TRASH, 10, HIGH STREET. PREFACE The advent of another work devoted to a subject on which the pen has been so frequently employed, and by writers possessing no ordinary opportunities for investigation and powers of de scription, might be regarded as somewhat chi merical, were not the Editor of this work enabled to direct the attention of the reader to one or two points wherein it differs from all others which have hitherto been publisLed. This description of Oxford being intended prin cipally for Straagers, the Editor's object has been to make it a true Guide and a plain Directory, so as to enable persons who are totally ignorant of the place to visit every College, Hall, and Public Building, which he has placed according to their situation without regard to their nature, so that the University and City may thereby be peram bulated in a very short space of time. Nor has the Editor confined his object to places only; he has endeavoured so to analyze the whole interior of Oxford, by entering into a short detail of the Dresses, Degrees, Examinations, and Dis tinctive Ranks of the Members, and, indeed, of everything that could elucidate and explain the nature of the University, and afford information II PREFACE. respecting its technical and local terms, as to present it to his readers in the most plain and concise manner. Thus much for the Stranger's Guide: but it has always been considered a matter of objection to Guide-Books in general, that they are com paratively useless beyond the compass to which they direct. The desire of the Editor has there fore been to combine the Guide with the Book of General Information on the subjects con tained in it, and which may be read with interest at any time, and at any distance from Oxford. This is exemplified in the Introductory History of the University and City, as well as in the historical matter connected with each society ; and which, though condensed, will be found to embrace all the most important features, both as regards their earliest foundation and their suc cessive and modern improvements. Sketches of the lives of the various founders and benefactors have also been added, as well as numerous anec dotes and details concerning them, all calculated to interest the general reader. The Peculiar and Curious Customs of any particular society, with their origin, have likewise been narrated: the List of Renowned Characters who have at various periods been members of the different societies, will also be found to be copious and entertaining: the whole combining a complete PREFACE. hi "Historical and Biographical Hand -Book to Oxford, from the earliest ages to the present time." But a further, and, if unrefuted, much more fatal objection will be raised, (as has been the case with regard to works of a somewhat similar character,) in the idea that the mingling of these topics will lead to much trouble and confusion during the time occupied by the Visitor in in vestigating the several parts of the edifice in course of description ; but this is completely answered by the plan which has been adopted of restricting the Text to a perfect description of the subjects appertaining to a Guide; whilst the Historical and Biographical portion of the work is contained in the Notes to the several pages. The Editor is happy to have the opportunity of acknowledging the assistance he has received during the progress of his labours, from many Members of the University, who have not only supplied him with much information, but also, with kind consideration, revised the proof-sheets relating to their several societies. The valuable stores of the Bodleian Library have proved of great utility to the Editor; and he is likewise indebted for much information to the valuable work of Dr. Ingram, the " Memorials of Oxford." In conclusion, the Editor has only to hope that his efforts, (in conjunction with those of the IV preface. printer and publisher as regards the appearance of the work,) may meet with that approbation which he is so desirous of receiving at the hands of the public. *#* The whole tour of the University may by the assistance of this Guide, be made in a short space of time, and the visitor will be amply repaid for his trouble by the numerous interesting objects he will meet with in his walk. The Porter of each society is, of course, the proper person to apply to in order to see the College, or to find the residence of any of its members; a clear direction is therefore given as to the situation of the lodge occupied by that important functionary. H. M. M. THE CITY OF OXFORD.* The City of Oxford, which is likewise the county town, is perhaps one of the most remark able and picturesque cities in Europe. The neighbouring country has long been the admira tion of every lover of nature and historical anti quity, and the Classic City is nearly encompassed at a distance of one or two miles by the forest- covered hills and valleys, commanding views of its majestic spires, domes, and towers, — an assemblage of noble, ancient, and modern buildings which no other city in the world can present. It is seated on a gentle eminence, near the junction of the rivers, Isis and Cherwell. The former, as it approaches Oxford, divides itself into several branches, which reuniting into one channel, passes to the south of the city, under Folly Bridge, and beside Christ Church Meadow. The Cherwell, rises in the northern part of the county, passes under Magdalen Bridge, and unites with the Isis on the southern side of the same meadow. aThe present name of the city is most probably derived from there having been a ford or passage for oxen, previous to the erection of bridges. It is locally situated in the BuUingdon hundred, in the Oxford circuit, fifty-four miles west from London, by way of High Wycombe ; fifty-eight by way of Henley ; and about sixty by rail, a branch of the Great Western. b VI CITY OF OXFORD. The two streams, after thus almost insulating the city, unitedly flow on through Abingdon to Dorchester, where, receiving the Thame, the river acquires the name of Thames. Oxford, including the suburbs, is nearly two miles in length, from east to west ; and about a mile in breadth, from north to south. According to the Census of 1841, its population, including the Members of the University, 1600 in number, was 25,746. Oxford has four principal entrances; the eastern one, from London by road, is very imposing. Passing over the handsome bridge which crosses the Cherwell, we have before us, on the right, a view of Magdalen College, with its elegant tower, rising proudly over the city ; and on the left, the Botanic Gardens. At this point commences the High Street, which is universally admitted to be one of the finest streets in the world, not from its uniform elegance, but from the varied beauties it presents to the view, which break suddenly on the sight as we pass the Botanic Gardens. The mixture of Churches, Colleges, and other public buildings, of ancient and modern architecture, with dwelling-houses of a varied character, inter spersed with occasional groups of trees, all ar ranged in a graceful curve, at once surprises and captivates the beholder ; while every successive step presents some new and interesting object to his attention. " By its curviture," says Mr. Dallaway, " the High Street gradually expands the scenes of academic splendour. The succession is not too sudden, nor does it suffer from the f CITY OF OXFORD. Vll want of continuity or neatness in the private houses. For variety and magnificence of public buildings no city in Europe can offer a compe tition." A most striking effect must be produced on intelligent foreigners by the continued succes sion of colleges, public buildings, — all beautiful erections — gardens, and walks, which they will observe only in Oxford ; and which afford a large number of admirable subjects for the pencil of the artist. The public buildings in the High Street are Queen's, University, and All Souls' Colleges; the University Church, (St. Mary's3), and All Saints' Church.^ The view is terminated by the City Church, (St. Martin's, or Carfaxb). The northern entrance into Oxford from the Worcester and Birmingham roads, is by a hand some wide street, with a row of trees on each side, called St. Giles's Street.0 The southern entrance from the railway station, is over a spacious newly- erected Bridge, called Folly Bridge, which crosses the river Isis.d a Sermons are preached here before the Viee-Chancellor and University Authorities on Sundays and Holydays, (with some few exceptions,) at half-past ten a.m., and two p.m., after which is the usual parish service. h The Mayor and Corporation, in their robes, attend Service at this Church. Carfax Church is supposed to have derived its name from quad/rwvwm^ or quatre-voiesj the meeting of the four ways, or principal streets. c The stranger who enters Oxford by this road will be gratified by fine views of St. John's College to the left, the new Taylor and Randolph Buildings to the right, and the recently- erected Martyrs' Memorial in the centre of this handsome street, which greatly resembles the far-famed Boulevards of Paris. d Prom this bridge may be obtained a beautiful view of 6 2 V1I1 CITY OF OXFORD. " The western approach from the Bath road is of a very peculiar character. It consists of a raised causeway, which, passing over low meadows, intersected by branches of the Isis, has, in the space of one mile, no less than seven stone bridges. In the city and its suburbs there are fifteen parishes, viz : — St. Aldate, Binsey, St. Ebbe, All Saints, St. Giles, Holywell, St. Clement, St. John, St. Mary the Virgin, St. Michael, St. Mary Mag dalen, St. Martin, St. Peter-le-Bailey, St. Peter- in-the East, and St. Thomas.2 There are six Dissenting Places of Worship in the city, viz. r — the Wesleyan Chapel, in New- Inn-Hall Street; the Wesleyan Centenary, St. Clement's ; the Baptist Chapel, on the New Road ; Mr. Bulteel's Chapel, in the Friars' ; the Independent Chapel, in George Street ; and the Primitive Methodist Chapel, Bull Street, Friars'. Besides these there is a small Roman Catholic Chapel, in St. Clement's parish, the eastern suburb. The Post Office is under the Town Hall near the centre of the city, in the street leading Christ Church meadow, with its delightfully-shaded waits, so much frequented by the residents of Oxford, and so justly admired 'by all who witness its scenery ; by the side of this flows the river, which is studded with pleasure boats of every description. This spot is the scene of much animation during the summer Terms, on account of the races, ably con tested by gentlemen of the University, in elegant eight-oared boats, distinguished by their costume, and the colours and arms of their respective Colleges. aThe parishes of St. Thomas and St. Ebbe have each a district church, recently erected ; St. Paul's Church, at Jericho, belong ing to the former, and Trinity Church, Blackfriars Road, to the latter parish. CITY OF OXFORD. IX to Christ Church, St. Aldate's Street. The Office is open from 7 o'clock in the morning till 1 1 at night.3 The mention made of Oxford both by Appian and Cyprian, in their account of British cities, leaves but little doubt of its early existence as a city of great importance; and the annals of English History testify to the same facts, either with or without regard to its connection with the University.5 From the earliest times the citizens "Letters to the undermentioned Counties must be delivered by a J before 4 in the afternoon, viz. : — Cheshire, Cumberland, Derbyshire, Durham, Lancashire, Leicestershire, Lincolnshire, Northamptonshire, Northumberland, Nottinghamshire, Rut landshire, Staffordshire, Shropshire, Warwickshire, Westmor land, Yorkshire, North Wales, North of Ireland, Scotland, and the towns of Dudley , Stourbridge, Bewdley, Kidderminster, and Stourport. There is no Post to London on Saturday night. Attendance is given on Sunday afternoon. The general delivery of Letters commences at 7 o'clock in the morning, and the delivery of Northern Letters about 10 o'clock. A Mail to London at half-past 9 in the morning, after which time Id. late fee until 10. North closes at' half-past 3, West at 8, all others at 10 ; 2d. late fee, until 11. Day Mail delivered at half-past 1 from London and West. — Monet Ojideks are issued and paid from 9 to 6, except from half-past 3 till half-past 4. — Letters to be registered must be delivered at least half an hour before the closing of the box. Receiving Bouses. — M. Johnson's, 8, New Road ; H. Whar- land's, 8, St. Giles's Road ; W. C. Shepperd's, 45, Holywell Street ; and T. Houghton's, St. Clement's ; at these places the letter-bags are made up half an hour before the post oflxce hours. b It was undoubtedly fortified in the Saxon times ; ^nd Dr. Ingram in his Memorials of Oxford, a work of the utmost value, supposes it, from the original plan, to have been a Roman fortification, with a castle at the north-west, added by the Normans. A portion of this castle still remains, a. me mento of past ages, most interesting to the lover of ancient history, and antique remains, it having been built at least as early as the reign of William Rufus. It was from this spot that the Empress Maude made her escape in disguise, during the night, after having been besieged therein for three months by Stephen, (who at the time occupied Beaumont Palace, now X CITY OF OXFORD. had always shewn great bravery and indepen dence, and readily armed themselves against the attacks of the Danes and Normans. The ground to the north-west of the city, called Port Meadow, has belonged to the citizens from time imme morial, as recorded in the Doomsday Survey. The mention made of the Corporation, in con junction with that of London, in the year 1013, establishes the antiquity of that body; nor are other proofs wanting to confirm the high es timation in which this city was held by the monarchs of England;3 several of whom, from the destroyed.) There is a very curious well-room of the time of Henry H. ; it is not shewn, however, to strangers, on account of a fatal accident having occurred there a few years since. There is likewise an ancient crypt or chapel, of which, though still retaining its Norman architecture, the roof has been some what disturbed in building the foundations of the Gaol, which with the new County Hall is situated in the immediate neigh bourhood. Robert d'Oiley, who was possessor of the Castle, early in the 12th century founded a College here, but younger students do not appear to have resided in it for the purpose of education. Dr. Ingram has some very interesting features in his account of this castle. Mr. King, who has written much on the subject, is of opinion that a tower and castle or resi dence of some description or other must have existed here for a considerable time before the Conquest. At an early period during the Danish invasions, Oxford was one of the Seven Burgs, or fortified towns mentioned in the Saxon Chronicle. Of these, Oxford is the only one having interesting remains of both walls, and fort, or moat. Mr. King also states that considerable Saxon remains have been discovered by digging within the Castle area ; and it can easily be supposed that a royal residence must have been within the walls, in Saxon times, since ancient records prove that even beyond the walls, a Saxon tower of stone was standing in the time of King Ethelred, in the very place, where, subsequently stood the Norman tower called Eriar Bacon's Study. 1 We find that a Royal Mint was here in Saxon times, (whence money was coined,) and various proofs of municipal importance. The mace which is now carried before the Mayor is about five feet in height, and has the following inscription : — CITY OF OXFORD. XI reign of Alfred to that of the present queen of this empire, have held their courts here, or partaken of the hospitality of the City and University.3 Though the latter body has always exercised the right of watch and ward over its own members, yet in all matters of police, &c, the ancient chart ers recognize the joint power of the civic and collegiate authorities : and their respective police forces regularly relieve guard, those of the City having watch by day, and those of the University by night. Oxford can likewise boast of many distin guished men, who have claimed it as the place of their nativity ; among them may be mentioned, Thomas Cowper, bishop of Winchester ; Barton Holyday, a poet and dramatist ; Thomas Harriott, a very celebrated mathematician ; William Chil- lingworth ; Sir William Davenant, a poet of con siderable eminence ; Pocock, the noted Oriental traveller ; Anthony a Wood, the renowned histo rian ; and many others of great celebrity. "This mace was made in the mayoralty of John Lamb, in the reign of Charles II." John Lamb was mayor in 1668, so that the date is clearly ascertained. * King Henry the Second, in his progress through his dominions, took Oxford in his way ; and that monarch confirmed to the citizens a charter by which they were placed on the same footing with those of London, in respect of the customs and privileges enjoyed by them ; and, upon all festive occasions, the mayor of Oxford was to attend at the table of the sovereign. That dignitary still acts as under butler to the monarch at the coronation, and has the privilege of retaining the gold cup used on the occasion ; and the charter just mentioned, enjoins that whatever customs, privileges, laws, liberties, or tenures belong to the citizens of London, the same should be enjoyed in common with them, by the citizens of Oxford. Xll CITY OF OXFORD. Nor, is Oxford, which may boast of its eminent men, and beautiful buildings, without those edifices of a necessary, though less pretentious character, — its Infirmaries, its Institutions, and its Charities. But all of these will be met with at regular spaces in our tour through the University, and we need therefore only allude to them as above, in order to complete our sketch of the City of Oxford. A CONCISE HISTORY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF OXFORD WITH AN ACCOUNT OF ITS MAMEES, CUSTOMS, &c, Although it is greatly to be regretted that a want of authentic documents prevents us from entering with any degree of certainty into the earliest history of Oxford in a civic point of view, yet as an University, there is certainly no deficiency of record, in respect to its ancient progress. From the very first periods of English civilisation, a halo of classic glory has shed its lustre over " the modern Athens," and shrouded it with a mantle, the sacred mystery of which, alone affords the most ample material for a contemplative mind. However much we may be indebted to that patron of learning, King Alfred, for the restoration and re- establishment of Oxford as an University, yet it is beyond a doubt that it was founded at a far earlier period ; suspended, however, by the tumultuous con duct of the Danes and Normans, and resumed when peace was restored. It may be judicious here to state, that the studies, discipline, and statutes of the University were not originally what they now are, the great improvements of the present age (and for which there is yet ample scope), being the work of pro gression, grafted on the opinions and practice of preceding ages, the unpolished discipline which gave d XIV HISTORY OF THE promise of a superstructure, whose soundness and durability could only be equalled by its utility.3 For some time Schools had existed at Oxford for im parting to the youthful students, who resorted thither, (and who were lodged in halls, or hostels, which were increased for their convenience, as circumstances required,) grammar and other elementary knowledge, necessary for completing their education. But the first mention we have of any notable foundation for such a purpose, is that of the Priory of St. Frides- wide.b From this, being the earliest notice of Oxford a Many of the colleges were founded on systems totally distinct from the course pursued by the University ; they were guided by the private statutes drafted for them by their founders, their students were educated more entirely within their own walls, and enjoyed a far more regular and wholesome discipline ; and it is only of late years, that the society of New College has been prevailed upon to relinquish that clause in their statutes, permitting them to examine their own members when candidates for degrees. b An outline of the history of St. Erideswide, from which arose such important results, may not prove uninteresting. Divested of its legendary additions there is nothing incredible in it. Early in the eighth century, Didan, a governor, provost, viceroy, or mayor, (" Subregulus") ruled over one of the most populous districts in Oxford, with great dignity and honour.* Having lost his beloved wife, Saflrida, he sought consolation in works of piety, and employed himself in constructing a church, in the precincts of the city, which he dedicated to St. Mary and All Saints, and committed it to the superintendence of his daughter, Erideswide, at her own request; she, having received a religious education under Elgiva, a most pious devotee, not only embraced a monastic life herself, but induced twelve other virgins of respectable families to follow her example. In process of time by the munificence of the King of the district, certain Inns were constructed in the vicinity of the church, for the temporary repose of those, who, attracted by the religious character of the spot, came there for devotional purposes ; the com bination of these formed the origin of the monastic foundation [* Other citizens were associated with him, in authority, called " Earldormen," or elder men, from whence, in later times, came our term Alderman, as designating one holding the jurisdiction of a certain part of the city.] UNIVERSITY OF OXFORD. XV as a place of religious instruction, may be traced the rise of the University. A lapse in the historical data occurs from this period till the time of Alfred, who, having wrested the city from the Danes, restored the educational houses, and made Oxford a royal residence, calling his palace " The King's Hall ;" and from this time there was a great increase in the establishment of the numerous halls,* inns, schools, courts, and hostels, as they were indiscriminately called, for the reception of students and noviciates, to promote the cause of learning ; though, for their internal comfort, or architectural arrangement, they could elicit but little admiration. Many of them were covered only with thatch, and so ill-constructed, as to be quite ineapable of yielding accommodation for the number of aspirants, who sought Oxford for the pursuit of literature. But an important change, the gradual adoption of the collegiate in place of the aularian system, soon effected an entire revolution in the insti tutions, discipline, and education of the University. From about the middle of the eleventh century, to the early portion of the thirteenth, edifices of various de scriptions had been erected, contributing alike to the called naturally after its preceptress, St. Erideswide. There is one remarkable feature which distinguishes this founda tion ; from its first establishment in the eighth century, to its suppression in the sixteenth, by Cardinal "Wolsey, who on the site thereof founded his magnificent college of Christ Church, it was devoted entirely to the service of religion, — all secular studies were made ancillary to it ; and this im pression is constantly retained throughout the history of the University. St. Erideswide died on the 14th before the calends of November, (October 19th,) A.D. 740; and the anniversary is kept as a " gaudy" by the members of Christ Church. = Many of these halls were designated by names quite opposed to all ideas of a classic locality; thus, in the old historians we read of Physic, Pill, Beef, Ape, and Pittance halls, &c. d2 XVI HISTORY OF THE ornament of the streets, and the convenience of the inhabitants ; and the old churches were superseded by structures of greater service. Henry the First, sur- named Beauclerc for his good scholarship, about the year 1122 built a House of Congregation for the University, wherein they might transact the important business connected with its welfare ; and Bishop Cobham built a library for them over the Convocation House, stimulated thereto by the desire of forwarding the studious habits of the scholars. The Canons of Osney, who flourished in the 12th and 13th centuries, liberally contributed out of their enormous wealth towards the support of the poorer students, possessing as they did many of the halls under their immediate jurisdiction.2 But about the latter period we have mentioned, the establishment of colleges, with cor porate rights, statutes, and endowments, formed an era in the history of Oxford, which city, after having experienced all the vicissitudes that are alone to be found in the annals of Great Britain, is destined for ever to endure, — an example of the progress of ages, tempered by civilisation. As in our account of the various colleges, we shall gradually develope their individual history, it will be only necessary here to state that the example of Walter de Merton,b John de Balliol, and William of Durham, in the respective a Osney Abbey is supposed to have been situated in the palish of St. Thomas ; such was its magnificence, and so luxuriant the mode of living practised by the Canons, that royalty considered it no degradation to partake of the Society's hospitality ; and King Henry the Third, after the siege of KenUworth, passed his Christmas there, remaining for seven days, in the midst of mirth and rejoicing. b Walter de Merton at this time was Chancellor of Eng land ; and it is very evident that his prudence and sagacity during the time he held this office, contributed so much to the admirable settlement of the English law and coiistitu- UNIVERSITY OF OXFORD. xvii foundation of Merton, Balliol, and University Colleges at the beginning of the 13th century, was soon fol lowed by the erection, during the 14th century, of Exeter, Oriel, Queen's, and New Colleges, by Walter de Stapledon, Edward IL, Robert de Egglesfield, and William of Wykeham. The latter may be said thoroughly to have established the collegiate system ; such was the magnitude and grandeur of his establish ment, that it was distinguished by the name of the New College, which it has since retained. About the same period Lincoln, All Souls', and Magdalen Col leges were built, and enlargements made to buildings already in use; in the year 1472, the chancel and body was added to St. Mary's Church, and during this and the two succeeding- centuries, Christ Church, Brasenose, Corpus, and other wealthy endowments were from time to time erected, mostly with the means of benevolent private individuals. During this period, also, we must not omit to mention other improvements which proceeded from the emergencies of the times. A school for teaching the classics had already been erected, but a separate room being required for the disputations in divinity, in 1480, the Divinity School, still remaining, was finished ; and before this a library had been erected chiefly by the assistance of Humphrey, Duke of tion as to procure for his sovereign, Edward the Eirst, the title of the " British Justinian." He gave a most extraordi nary impulse to the academical tendency of Oxford as a place of education, by the foundation of his College, which produced the most important effects on the general system of national education. There can be but little doubt that, at this period, Oxford was as celebrated as Paris as an University. The erection of Colleges, from this period, increased its celebrity ; and, by their liberal endowments, the students were enabled to prosecute their researches in every department of literature and science, with the greatest advantage. dS XVlil HISTORY OF THE Gloucester. The revival of the press in the 1 6th century was found of great utility in spreading the studies of the University, and various buildings adapted for printing, have, from that time to the present, been erected for that purpose. The 17th century witnessed the rise and growth of the sciences of botany and anatomy. Two colleges — Wadham and Pembroke — were also founded at this period, whilst in the 18th hut one was erected, namely, Worcester. This decrease in the foundation of colleges after the protestant reforma tion arose from the idea conceived by the benefactors to the University, that the period had arrived to place the studies of Oxford on a more enlarged footing, which they considered would be promoted by the endowment of Professorships in every department of science. These, therefore, followed each other in rapid succession : Sir H. Saville founded professorships in geometry and astronomy ; and astronomical observations were made from a house in New College Lane, opposite Magdalen Hall, previous to the erection of the Radcliffe Observatory. In the years 1632 — 1636, professors and lecturers were appointed in — natural philosophy, (founded by Sedley,) — moral philosophy, (founded by White,) — ancient history, (founded by Camden,) — and in anatomy, (founded by Tomlins.) In the latter year, Archbishop Laud founded his professorships in Arabic, and a professorship in poetry was founded by Birkhead, in the middle of the same century. And that the students might not entirely forget the language of their pious forefathers, Dr. Rawlinson established an Anglo-Saxon professorship, which has proved of the greatest utility to the University. In 1755, Mr. Viner left £12,000 in order to promote the study of the common law of England, by establishing professorships and scholarships, as far UNIVERSITY OF OXFORD. XIX as could be supported by the produce of his legacy. Geometry, mineralogy, and experimental philosophy, received assistance during the regency of George the Fourth ; a professorship in political economy was founded in 1825, by Henry Drummond; and in 1830, John Boden left the whole of his estate, which he had accumulated in India, for the endow ment of a professorship in the Sanscrit language. Nor were the fine arts, and study of modern languages'forgotten ; Dr. Randolph and Sir Robert Taylor provided for them by funds which have caused the erection of the " University Galleries and Taylor Institute," to which we shall have future occasion for reference. Thus has the University arrived at a height of intellectual improvement, from which every antagonist of the advance of education must flee with terror. The University of Oxford, then, consists of a num ber of Colleges and Halls, acting together in a Cor porate capacity, under the title of " The Chancellor, Masters, and Scholars of the University of Oxford." Colleges are incorporated bodies, endowed by their founders and others with estates and benefices ; out of the revenue arising from the estates, as well as other resources, the Heads, and Senior and Junior Members ON the foundation, receive an income, and the expenses of the Colleges are defrayed. Members not on the foundation, called Independent Members, reside entirely at their own expense.3 There are nineteen Colleges and five Halls ; the latter a The Dependent Members, or those on the foundation, consist of the Heads, Fellows, (called Students at Christ Church), Scholars, (called Demies at Magdalen, and Post masters at Merton), Chaplains, Bible-Clerks, Servitors, and Choristers : these have a portion of the revenue of their College. The senior Members are appointed Tutors, and XX HISTORY of the not incorporated bodies, but enjoying the same privi leges as the Colleges. Each College and Hall has a resident Governor, under the titles of Dean, Principal, President, Provost, Rector, Warden, or Master : these are assisted in the government of their respective Socie ties by the senior Members on the foundation, who hold the offices of Dean, Censor, &c, whilst the financial busi ness of the Society is entrusted to one or more Bursars or Treasurers of the College, who receive all dues, and pay all demands. The Heads of the Colleges and Halls, and Canons of Christ Church, have the privilege of marrying ; they have houses, or, as they are usually termed lodgings, in or attached to their establishments. Independent Students are sometimes married, but in that case, they enter at one of the Halls and reside in private lodgings. , Each student has a bed-room, and one or two sitting- rooms, furnished at his own expense, for which, if not on the foundation, he pays rent to the College. Prayers are read in the various Chapels three times in each day, and every Member is expected to attend a certain number of services during the week. Each Society has a Hall or Refectory, in which the whole of the Society assembles to dine ; and a Com mon Room to which the Members afterwards retire. The College gates, throughout the University, are shut at nine o'clock, after which time, all junior Mem bers entering the gates, or, as it is technically called, receive classes of Students at their apartments, to prepare them for Public Examination ; the Chaplains and Bible-Clerks perform Divine Service ; the Servitors formerly waited at table. The Independent Members comprehend the Noble men, Gentlemen and Eellow-Commoners, and Commoners, all of whom reside at their own expense ; some, however, are assisted by grants of money, termed in University language, " Exhibitions ;" many of the most valuable of which are in the gift of the principal London Companies. UNIVERSITY OF OXFORD. XXI "knocking in," are reported to the College authorities, who, if very late, reprove them and give them a literary task, entitled an " Imposition." Great offences are punished by rustication, (i. e. being sent from College for a time,) or expulsion. The Chancellor is the supreme Governor of the University, hut he only appears, officially, on par ticular occasions ; as does the High Steward, whose duty is to assist the Chancellor in the administration of justice upon certain grave occasions.3 The chief resident officer is the Vice-Chancellor, (who is always the Head of a College, nominated by the Chancellor, and holding office for four years) ; he, in conjunction with the PROCTORS,b who are the Peace Officers of the University, and are elected annually, 3 The Chancellor of the University is elected by the Members of Convocation : the office was formerly triennial, sometimes annual ; the first Chancellor who was elected for life being John Russel, Bishop of London, in the year 1484. Previous to this the office was usually executed by a resident Member of the University ; subsequently it appears to have been held by Bishops, and afterwards by Laymen, the first of whom, Sir John Mason, knight, was elected in 1552. b The office of the Proctors is one of great power and distinction. The question of the nature of the discipline by which the Students in earlier times were regulated, in their Halls or Inns, must be left to conjecture in consequence of the deficiency of authentic records to establish a certainty. It is most probable that they recognised the authority of a principal appointed by the Chancellor of the University, who was invested with sufficient power to maintain due order ; but in consequence of the desultory method of educa tion, the increase of Students, attracted by the fame of the place, was so great, numbering at one period over 20,000, who flocked to Oxford from all parts of Europe, that the Chancellor found his own individual authority insufficient for the preservation of the public peace. Frequent tumults took place between the scholars and townspeople, often attended with severe results. The most dreadful of these dire conflicts took place during the reign of Edward the Third ; it com menced on the Feast of St. Scholastica, the 10th of February, 1354, and continued for three days. The quarrel began at a tavern styled " The Mermaid," situated at a spot called XXII HISTORY OF THE from the Fellows of the several Colleges in rotation, presides over the assembly of the heads of Colleges and Halls, and senior Members of the Colleges, which Meeting is called a Convocation : the proceedings " Pennyless," or " Butter Bench," near the east end of Old Carfax Church, between John de Croydon, the landlord and some scholars who were drinking wine there. On the second evening the townsmen ^called in the country people to their assistance, and thus completely overpowered the scholars, a great number of the latter being killed and wounded, the streets wherein the tumult took place, being said to have been covered with blood. But serious consequences resulted to the citizens from this outrage : they were debarred the rights and consolations of the Church ; their privileges were greatly narrowed ; heavy fines were inflicted on them ; and the annual performance of certain penitential observances from the civic to the University authorities enjoined, which were, however, abolished by the University in the year 1825. To prevent the recurrence of such atrocious scenes, it was considered necessary to add to the power of the Chancellor ; charters upon charters were granted for this purpose ; and at length two officers, termed Ps,octors, were therefore con nected with him, as magistrates, to assist in keeping the younger students within the bounds of prudence and decency. Their power continues to the present day, but greatly increased, and aided by that of the Marshal and Police of the University, who act under their control ; and every evening about nine o'clock, at which time it is requisite that all junior members should be in College, they may be seen carefully noting the members who pass them, and carrying into effect the duties of their office, constituting as they do' the civil magistracy of the University. To add to the dignity of the Chancellor's office, whenever himself or his deputy appeared in the execution of his duties, he was preceded by Bedels, a custom continued at the present time. These are six in number; three Esquire, and three Yeomen Bedels, who carry before them staves or maces as symbols of authority. There is also another officer, called a "Verger, who, like the Bedels, carries a handsome silver staff, or mr.ee, before him. The following Latin inscriptions are legible on the maces : — Divinity, Ego sum via et Veritas — Medicine and Arts, Ego sum via, vita, ET VERITAS : COLUMNA PHILOSOPHISE, SciENTLZE, ET MORES Lam, ^EauuM et eonum columns justitije. The letters on the base are inverted; because, in the presence of majesty, whenever the sovereign visits the University, and then only, the broad or obtuse ends of the maces are carried upwards by way of difference. As the emergencies of the University UNIVERSITY OF OXFORD. XX111 of this Assembly are conducted in Latin, except on extraordinary occasions. This body has power to make laws for the whole University ; it being under stood that every measure must, previously to being proposed to Convocation, have the approbation of the Hebdomadal Board, which consists of the Heads of Colleges and Halls, and the two Proctors only. The University sends two Representatives to Parlia ment, who are elected at a public Convocation of the Doctors and Regent Masters of Arts. The Returning Officers are the Vice-Chancellor and the two Proctors. The Members of the University, previous to obtain ing a Degree, are called Undergraduates ; they have to undergo two examinations, before the Public Examining Masters, before any degree can be takeii ; the first examination called the Responsions, but more com- required, the Chancellor was,relieved by the addition of fresh officers. The duty of his Steward or Senesohallus, was for merly to allot the provision for the junior students, but the office has now entirely changed its character, is usually held by a person of high family, and is almost a sinecure, the only duties of his office being, if required by the Chancellor, to hear and determine capital causes, whenever a scholar or privileged person is the offending party, and to hold the University Court Leet, by himself or deputy, at the appointment of the Chancellor or Vice-Chancellor. The Puelic Orator, whose office was established in 1564, has to write letters and com pose public addresses, and, as the voice of the University, to deliver harangues at the reception of illustrious visitors. The office of the Keeper op the Public Archives was instituted in 1634, for the preservation of the University records, to be produced when the rights and privileges of the University are called into question. The University Regis trar attends all the meetings, records the acts, receives the rents, and conducts all the corporate business of the University. The two Proctors op the Vice-Chancellor's Court are the legal advocates in all matters coming under the jurisdiction of that Court. The University appoints two Clerks or the Market who have to examine the quality and price of provision, and attend to the weights and measures used in the market. These constitute the principal governing Members of the University. XXIV HISTORY OF THE UNIVERSITY. monly by the undergraduates, the " Little Go;" and the succeeding, the Public Examination, or as it is termed in University language, the " Great Go." Responsions take place from the sixth to the ninth term of the student's residence ; this examination includes the Classics and Logic, or the elements of Euclid. The Public Examination must be undergone soon after entering the fourth year of residence, and consists of exercises in the rudiments of Religion, including a knowledge of the Gospels in the original Greek, the Classics, Rhetoric, Moral Philosophy, Logic, and Latin Composition ; to which the Candi date, who is seeking honours, adds Mathematics and Natural Philosophy. The names of the Members who have passed their public examination are printed and arranged under four heads, termed Classes. Those who have distinguished themselves are placed in one of the four Classes, and those who have passed only an ordinary examination are entitled to a degree, but their names are not published. Those who are found imperfect, the Examiners reject — or " Pluck." The first degree is Bachelor of Arts, from thence proceed ing to Master of Arts, thence to Bachelor in Divinity, or Civil Law, and finally to that of Doctor in either of those faculties. A Gentleman to he admitted a Member of the Uni versity, must wait on the Vice-Chancellor, and inform him whether he is the son of a Nobleman, Baronet, Gentleman, or Plebeian ; subscribe to the Thirty-Nine Articles ; pay his entrance or matriculation fee, and take an oath of obedience to the Statutes of the Uni versity, a copy of which he receives at the time of admission. DRESSES OF THE MEMBERS. The Members of the University wear dresses according to \heir rank and degree. The Doctor in Divinity has three academical dresses : the first consists of a gown of scarlet cloth, with black velvet sleeves and facings, a cassock, sash, and scarf; the second is a habit of scarlet cloth, and a hood of the same colour, lined with black, and a black silk scarf; the Master of Arts' gown is worn under this dress. The third, which is the usual dress in which a Doctor in Divinity appears, is a Master of Arts' gown, with cassock, sash, and scarf. Graduates in Law and Physic wear dresses nearly alike. The Doctor has three ; — the first is a gown of scarlet cloth, with pink silk facings and sleeves, and a round cap of black velvet ; the second consists of a habit and hood of scarlet cloth, the hood lined, and the habit faced with pink silk ; this habit is seldom used, except by the Professors, and in presenting to degrees. The third, or usual dress of a Doctor in Law or Physic, is a black silk gown, richly ornamented with black lace ; the hood of the Bachelor in Law, worn as a dress, is of purple silk lined with fur. The dress worn by the Doctor of Music, on public occasions, is of white damask silk, with hood, facings, and sleeves of crimson satin, and a round cap of black velvet. The ordinary dresses of Doctor and Bachelor in Music are similar to those of Law and Physic. The dress of a Master of Arts is a black gown, made of Prince's stuff or crape, with long sleeves, having a circular cut at the bottom ; the hood is of black silk, lined with crimson. The gown of a Bachelor of Arts is of Prince's stuff, or crape, has a full sleeve, looped up at the elbow, which c XXVI DRESSES OF THE MEMBERS. terminates with a point ; the dress-hood is of black silk, trimmed with fur. Noblemen and Gentlemen-Com moners, who graduate as Bachelors and Masters of Arts, wear silk gowns. Noblemen have two dresses: the first is a gown of purple damask silk, ornamented with gold lace, which is worn on public occasions ; the second is of black silk, with full sleeves, and a tippet attached to the shoulders ; a square black velvet cap, with gold tassel, is worn with these dresses. The dress gown of the Gentleman-Commoner is of black silk, richly ornamented with silk tassels ; the un dress g'own is also of black silk, plaited at the sleeves ; with both these dresses is worn a square black velvet cap, with silk tassel. The Commoner wears a gown of black Prince's stuff, without sleeves, it has a broad strip from each shoulder, reaching to the bottom of the dress, which are gathered into plaits near the top ; a square black cloth cap, with silk tassel. A Civilian or Student in Civil Law, wears a plain black silk gown, square cloth cap, with silk tassel. Members on any foundation, who have not taken a degree, wear a plain black gown of Prince's stuff, with full sleeves, half the length of the gown, and a square black cloth cap, with silk tassel. The dress of the Servitor is similar to that of the Commoner, except that it has no plaits at the shoulder, and the cap has no tassel. The Chancellor's dress-robe is of black damask silk, splendidly ornamented with gold embroidery, a lace band, and square velvet cap, with gold tassel ; his un dress-robe is the same as the gown of a Doctor in Divinity. The Vice-Chancellor and the Governors of the Col- OXFORD TERMS. XXVli leges and Halls have no particular dress, but each wears that of a Doctor of the faculty to which he belongs. The Proctors wear gowns of Prince's stuff, with facings and sleeves of black velvet ; and a small tippet is attached to the left shoulder ; to this dress is added, on particular occasions, a large ermine hood. The dress of the Pro-Proctors is a Master of Arts' gown faced with velvet ; a tippet is attached to the left shoulder. There are six Bedels ; three called Esquire Bedels, and three called Yeoman Bedels. The Esquire Bedels carry gold staves, and wear silk gowns, similar to those worn by a Bachelor of Law, and round velvet caps. The Yeoman Bedels carry silver staves, and wear black stuff gowns, and round silk caps. These Officers walk before the Vice-Chancellor in procession. The Verger, who walks first in procession, has a dress nearly similar to that of the Yeoman Bedel, and carries a silver rod. The Vice-Chancellor is commonly preceded by the Yeoman Bedel, with his staff. On all public occasions bands are considered a neces sary appendage to the academic dress OXFORD TERMS. There are four Terms in the year, viz. : — Michaelmas Term, from October 10 until December 17. Hilary Term, from January 14 to the day before Palm Sunday, except that day should be a Festival, then the Term ends on the Monday following. Easter Term, from the 1 Oth day after Easter Sunday until the Saturday before Whit-Sunday. Trinity Term, from "Wednesday after Whit- Sunday until the first Saturday in July. ROUTE THROUGH THE UNIVERSITY AND CITY OF OXFORD. From the Star Hotel, Corn Market Street; Mitre Inn, and Vine Inn, High Street; Three Cups Inn, Queen Street; Golden Cross, Roebuck, and Three Goats Inns, Corn Market Street. (From King's Arms Inn, proceed up Broad Street.) In Corn Market Street is St. Michael's Church, and north of it St. Mary Magdalen Church, and the Martyrs' Memorial, left of which is Beaumont Street, where is Sir Robert Taylor's Institution and the University Galleries, and Worcester College. On leaving Worcester College turn on the left and proceed up Walton Place to the New University Printing Office — pass up Observatory Street to the Observatory — Radcliffe Infir mary — and St. Giles's Church. Continue down St. Giles's Street to St. John's College. Proceed into Broad Street to Balliol College and Trinity College. Opposite Trinity College is Turl Street, in which are Exeter, Lincoln, and Jesus Colleges. Return into Broad Street to the Museum — Theatre — Clarendon , (formerly the University Printing Office.) Opposite to which is Park Street, where is Wadham College. Return into Catherine Street, proceed to New College, — return into Catherine Street to St. Mary Magdalen Hall. Through a gate opposite the west front is the Schools — Bod leian Library, Picture Gallery, and Divinity School. South of the Schools is the Radcliffe Library and Brasenose College. Pass into the High Street, where is St. Mary's Church — All Souls' College — University College — Queen's College — St. Edmund Hall — St. Peter's-in-the-East Church and Mag dalen College. Opposite Magdalen College is the Botanic Garden. Return up the High Street to King Street, which leads to Alban Hall — Merton College and Corpus Christi College. Opposite the latter is Oriel College. Proceed up Oriel Street to St. Mary Hall. Return to Christ Church, which faces Merton Street. Leave Christ Church through the front gate, opposite to which is Pembroke College and St. Aldate's Church. Proceed up St. Aldate's Street, in which is the Town Hall. Continue straight on to Carfax, where is St. Martin's Church. OFFICERS AND COUNCILLORS CITY AND BOROUGH OF OXFORD. Mayor, C. J. Sadler, Esq., Alderman. — High Steward, The Duke of Marlborough. — Recorder, Mr. Sergeant Manning. City Representatives, J. H. Langston, Esq. & W. P. Wood, Esq. Magistrates, The Mayor, W. H. Butler, T. Taylor, J. S. Browning, L. Wyatt, W. Thorp, T. Ensworth, and J. Parsons, Esqrs. Aldermen, — W. H. Butler, C. J. Sadler, J. S. Browning, J. Wyatt, W. Thorp, J. Thorp, L. Wyatt, R. C. Godfrey G. H. Warburton, and W. Ward. Sfieriff, Mr. J. C. Dudley. COUNCILLORS. Central Ward — All Saints and St. Mary Magdalen. — Messrs. T. Mallam, R. J. Spiers, J. Coleman, J. Wyatt, jun. R. Cox, and J. B. Floyd. North Ward — St. Thomas', St. Giles' and Binsey. — Messrs. J. Cox, I. T. Dobney, W. Glover, J. Collins, T. Joy, and J. Pike. South Ward — St. Aldate's, North Hinclcsey, St. Peter-le- Bailey, St. Mary the Virgin, and St. John's. — Messrs. I. Grubb, F. Telfer, J. Hastings, J. Towle, J. Wickens, and W. Ringrose. West Ward — St. Martin's, St. Michael's, and St. Ebbe's, — Messrs. J. C. Dudley, J. Warne, W. Bruton, G. Guy, C. A. Green, and W. Albutt. East Ward — St. Peter in-the-East, Holywell, St. Clement, Cowley, Headington and King's Mill. — Messrs. W. Thompson, E. J. Tarry, J. Matthew, W. Wise, H. Purdue, and E. Dore. Town Clerk and Clerk of the Peace, and Registrar of the Borough Court, George P. Hester, Esq. Solicitor, Percival Walsh, Esq.— Treasurer, Mr. Robert Haines. Coroner, W. Brunner, Esq. — Deputy Coroner, G. P. Hester, Esq. Auditors § Assessors, Messrs. John Looker and Henry Jacob. Ward Assessors— Central Ward, Messrs. R. H. Chilton and C. Brown.— North Ward, Messrs. G. Read and D. N. Margetts— South Ward, Messrs. J. G. Betteris and H. J. Ovenell.— West Ward, Messrs. H. Jacob and R.W. Bristow. — East Ward, Messrs J. Brockliss and R. Redhead. Clerk to the Magistrates. Mr. H. Jacob. Mace Bearer, Mr. Charles Foster. \XX OFFICERS OF THE UNIVERSITY. '.fayor's Sergeant, F. Varney. heriff's Sergeant, G. Cook. ¦ ity Marshal, T. Lucas. Governor of the City Gaol, G. Bossom. ' -haplain of the City Gaol, Rev. G. A. Browne, M.A., Mag. Coll. ¦¦urgeon of the City Gaol, Mr. Rusher. ,!ity Cryer, Edward Weatherstone, 7, St. Aldate's. BANKERS. .Messrs. Robinson, Parsons, and Thomson, High Street, on Messrs. Coutts and Co. 59, Strand. llessrs. Morrell, High Street, on Messrs. Jones, Loyd, and Co. 43, Lothbury. T.iessrs. Wootten and Co., St. Aldate's, on Messrs. Masterman and Co., 35, Nicholas Lane. London and County Banking Company, 21, Lombard Street, Branch of, High Street. OFFICERS OF THE UNIVERSITY. Chancellor, His Grace the Duke of Wellington, D.C.L., 1834, High Steward, the Earl of Devon, D.C.L., 1838. Deputy Steward, Hon. John Chetwynd Talbot, M.A., Ch. Ch. 3urgesses, Sir R. H. Inglis, Bart., D.C.L., Ch. Ch., and Right Hon. W. E. Gladstone, M.A., Ch. Ch. Vice-Chancellor, F. C. Plumptre, D.D., Master of University. Proctors, Rev. G. Marshall, Ch. Ch., and Rev. J. E. Henderson, Magdalen College. Registrar of the University and of the Chancellor's Court, Rev. P. Bliss, D.C.L., Office, Clarendon, Broad Street. Assessor, J. R. Kenyon, D.C.L. All Souls' College. Proctors of the Vice- Chancellor's Court, Rev. L. E. Judge, M.A., St. Giles's, and W. Scoltock, M.A., Ch. Ch. Esquire Bedels, H. Forster, M.A., New College, Divinity; G. V. Cox, M.A., Physic and Arts ; W. W. Harrison, B. A., Brasenose College, Law. Yeoman Bedels, J. Pillinger, Divinity ; H. S. Harper, Physic and Arts ; J. P. Shepperd, Law. Solicitor, Baker Morrell, Esq. Organist, Dr. Elvey. Clerk of the Schools, W. Sims. — Divinity Clerk, J. Pater. — Bailiff, W. Perkins. — Verger, M. Holliday. Marshal, Thomas B. Brown, 14, St. Giles's Road. PROFESSORS. XXxi PROFESSORS, &c. Regius Professor of Divinity, W. Jacobson, D.D., Canon of Christ Church. Regius Professor of Civil Law, J. Phillimore, D.C.L., Ch. Ch. Regius Professor of Medicine, J. Kidd, D.M., Christ Church. Regius Professor of Hebrew, E. B. Pusey, D.D., Canon of Christ Church. Regius Professor of Greek, Very Rev. the Dean of Ch. Ch. Regius Professor of Pastoral Theology, C. A. Ogilvie, D.D., Canon of Christ Church. Regius Professor of Ecclesiastical History, R. Hussey, B.D., Christ Church. Margaret Professor of Divinity, G. Fausset, D.D., Canon of Christ Church. Professor of Natural Philosophy, G. L. Cooke, B.D., Corpus Christi College. Savilian Professor of Geometry, Rev. B. Powell, M.A., Oriel. Savilian Professor of Astronomy, W. F. Donkin, M.A., Uni versity College. Professor of Moral Philosophy, J. M. Wilson, M.A., Corpus Christi College. Camden's Professor of Ancient History, E. Cardwell, D.D., Principal of St. Alban Hall. Professor of Music, Sir H. R. Bishop, B.M., Magdalen Coll. Archbishop Laud's Professor of Arabic, S. Keay, B.D,, Alban Hall. Regius and Sherardian Professor of Botany, C. G. B. Daubeny, D.M., Magdalen College. Professor of Poetry, James Garbett, M.A. Brasenose College. Regius Professor of Modern History, H. H.Vaughan, M.A. Oriel. Anglo Saxon Professor, J. Earle, M.A., Oriel College. Vinerian Professor of Common Law, J. R. Kenyon, D.C.L., All Souls' College. Lord Litchfield 's Clinical Professor, J.A. Ogle, D.M.Trinity Coll. Lord Almoner's Prcelector in Arabic, J. D. Macbride, D.C.L., Principal of Magdalen Hall. Aldrichian Professor of Medicine, J. A. Ogle, D.M. Trinity Coll. AMrichian Professor of Chemistry, C. G. B. Daubeny, D.M., Magdalen College. Aldrichian Professor of Anatomy. J. Kidd, D.M., Christ Church. Drummond" s Professor of Political Economy, N. W. Senior, M.A., Magdalen College. XXXII HEADS OF COLLEGES AND HALLS. Boden Professor of Sanscrit, H. H. Wilson, M.A. Exeter Coll. Lee's Lecturer in Anatomy, H. W. Acland, D.M., late Fellow of All Souls' Reader in Experimental Philosophy, Rev. Robert Walker, M.A., Wadham College. Reader in Mineralogy, W. Buckland, D.D., Christ Church. Reader in Geology, W. Buckland, D.D. Christ Church. Prcelectorship of Logic, H. Wall, M.A., Balliol College. Dean Ireland's Exequetical Professor, E. Hawkins, D.D., Oriel. Professor of Modern European Languages, F. H. Frithen, Ph.Dr. Public Orator, R. Michel, B .D., Magdalen Hall. Curators of the Theatre, B. P. Symons, D.D., Wadham College, and P. Wynter, D.D., St. John's College. Bodleian Librarian, B. Bandinel, D.D., New College. Keeper of the Archives, Rev. P. Bliss, D.C.L., St. Mary Hall. Keeper of the Ashmolean Museum, P. B. Duncan, M.A., New College. Radcliffe Librarian, J. Kidd, D.M., Christ Church. Radcliffe Observer, M. J. Johnson, M.A. Magdalen Hall. HEADS OF COLLEGES AND HALLS. All Souls', Rev. L. Sneyd, M.A., Warden, 1827 .—Balliol, R. Jenkyns, D.D., Master, 1819. — Brasenose, R. Harington, D.D., Principal, 1842.— Christ Church, T. Gaisford, D.D., Dean, 1831. — Corpus Christi, J. Norris, D.D., President, 1843.— Exeter, J. L. Richards, D.D., Rector, 1838.— Jesus, H. Foulkes, D.D., Principal, 1817.— Lincoln, J. Radford, D.D., Rector, 1834.— Magdalene, M. J. Routh, D.D., Presi dent, 1791. — Merton, R. Marsham, D.C.L., Warden, 1826. —New, D. Williams, D.C.L., Warden, 1840.— Oriel, E. Hawkins, D.D., Provost, 1828.— Pembroke, F. Jeune, D.C.L., Master, 1843.— Queen's, J. Fox, D.D., Provost, 1827.— St. John's, P. Wynter. D.D., President, 1828.— Trinity, J. Ingram, D.D., President, 1824.— University, F. C. Plumptre, D.D., Master, 1836.— Wadham. B. P. Symonds, D.D., Warden, 1831.— Worcester, R. L. Cotton, D.D., Pro vost, 1839.— Alban Hall, E. Cardwell, D.D., Principal, 1831. Edmund Hall, W. Thompson, M.A., Principal, 1843.— Magdalen Hall, J. D. Macbride, D.C.L. Principal, 1813.— New-Inn Hall, H. Wellesley, D.D., Principal, 1847.— St. Mary Hall, P. Bliss, D.C.L., Principal, 1848. THE STRANGER'S GUIDE. MAGDALEN COLLEGE.—!. Built on the site and lands of the dissolved Hospital of St. John the Baptist.1 Founded in 1457, by William Patten,b Bishop of Winches ter, Head Master of Winchester and Eton Colleges, Provost a It appears that this was not the first Hospital in this situation. It is recorded that in 1233, Henry III. rebuilt, on an enlarged plan, the original Hospital, and dedicated it to St. John the Baptist, after Ms father's name, and also in honour of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem. Henry likewise chartered the Society. The Hospital and grounds extended from East-bridge to East-gate, on both sides of the street, and its burial-ground was on the site now occupied by the Botanic Garden. This comprehended the area, or court, where the Jews then buried their dead, with all the appur tenances thereunto belonging, from East-bridge, and a spot called Parry's or Paris Isle, (which latter name is still given to the meadow eastward of the College buildings, insulated by the waters of the Cherwell,) to the East-gate, on both sides of the street, with all the buildings, then recently con structed, or in any way belonging to the said Hospital, in and without the borough of Oxford. St. John's Hospital was dissolved in 1456, and surrendered to William Patten, Bishop of Winchester, (a man deservedly in favour with Henry VI.,) who had obtained a license from his royal master to build a College on the site of it. He, however, proceeded in the erection with extreme caution ; not a stone was laid till 1473, when every legal matter had been carefully adjusted; nor was he satisfied till his new foun dation had received the confirmation of two Popes. In 1479, the first statutes were delivered to the Society ; and in 1481, the founder visited his College, bringing with him many books and manuscripts. This venerable prelate, who quitted his exalted station as Lord High Chancellor to give his attention to the advancement of piety and learning, had, previous to establishing Magdalen College, founded a Hall near University College. b William Patten was born at a village in Lincolnshire, called Waynflete. Hence he was frequently styled William of Waynflete. 2 MAGDALEN COLLEGE TOWER. of Eton, and Lord High Chancellor of England, in the reign of Henry VI. Foundation — President, 40 Fellows, 30 Scholars, (called Demies,a) 4 Chaplains, 8 Clerks, an Organist, 16 Choristers, a Schoolmaster, and an Usher. There are also other Members not on the Foundation. The number of Members on the College books is about 180. This College is very richly endowed. Visitor — Bishop of Winchester. Places worthy of inspection — The Chapel, Hall, and Walks. Renovmed Characters who were Members of this College — Cardinal Wolsey ; Lilly, the grammarian ; Fox, the martyr- ologist ; Cooper, the lexicographer ; Hammond ; Heylyn ; Hampden ; Thomas Smith ; Addison ; Collins ; Holdsworth ; Gibbon ; Horbery ; Townson ; Home ; Chandler ; Hough, bishop of Winchester, (celebrated for his consistent resist ance to the tyranny of James II.,) &c. This College has produced two Cardinals, four Archbishops, nearly forty Bishops, thirty- two Governors of high attainments, &c. *** Porter's Lodge — Right hand corner of the entrance gateway. b This noble establishment has always maintained a very high rank in the annals of the University. The whole site extends over about 100 acres of ground ; the buildings covering nearly 1 1 acres, and the rest divided into the beautiful Water-Walk, Gardens, Grove, &c. Rising majestically over the whole is the elegant Tower, which attracts the instant attention and admiration of all visitors by the eastern entrance to the city. This structure * Demies, so called from having been originally entitled to half commons only. h It may be well to state for the use of visitors not ac companied by a personal guide, that on enquiry at the porters' lodges of the various Colleges, they will learn where to find the persons appointed to show the different parts thereof. MAGDALEN COLLEGE GATEWAY. 3 was commenced in 1492, and completed about 1505, and is about 150 feet in height. It was originally intended to stand alone, but became gradually connected with the surrounding build ings. It contains a fine peal of ten richly-toned bells.a The entrance to the College is through a gate way in the Gothic style, erected in 1844, from a design by Mr. Pugin. The exterior richly- canopied niches are filled by figures of St. Mary Magdalene in the centre, St. John the Baptist on the left, and on the right is the Founder, William of Waynflete, in .his robes and mitre, having a richly-ornamented crozier in his hand. These are separated by the English Arms in the reign of Henry VI., and those of the Founder. The fol lowing is the translation of the Latin inscription over the gate : — " He that is mighty hath done for me great things, and holy is his name." The niche in the interior is ornamented with a figure of the Virgin and Child ; and the whole gateway is surmounted by a beautifully-finished cross. Upon entering the court, the eye meets some points of great architectural beauty. Opposite the entrance is the west window of the Chapel, with a rather curious shallow porch, over which * The reigning monarch at the time of the erection was Henry VII. ; and there is a tradition that formerly, on every May-day morning, a requiem for his soul was sung upon the top of the Tower in commemoration of his visit to the College in 1488. The custom of chanting a hymn, written for the occasion, in the same place, on the 1st of May, at five o'clock in the morning, is still preserved, and a collation is prepared for all those who take part in the ceremony. For this the Rectory of Slymbridge, in Gloucestershire, pays £10 annually. b2 4 MAGDALEN COLLEGE. are five figures in niches, representing St. John the Baptist, Edward IV., St. Mary Magdalene, St. Swithune, and the Founder. On the extreme right is a curious stone pulpit, from which the University Sermon was formerly preached on St. John's day.3 The sermon is now delivered an nually, before the University, in the Ante-Chapel. To the left, joining the court or garden of the President's lodgings,b is a very ancient and beautifully-proportioned Gothic tower and gate way, now disused, but which was formerly the entrance to the College. Above the gateway, on each side of an oriel window, belonging to the Founder's chamber, which is 'there situated, are canopied statues of St. Mary Magdalene, St. John the Baptist, Henry III., and the Founder, kneeling. To the left of the entrance to the Cloisters is a curious stained window, composed of very minute pieces of glass;0 and to the right is the door of the Chapel, which, if not the finest, is certainly * The Hospital of St. .John the Baptist having been, dedi cated on this day, the anniversary, was celebrated by a large concourse 6f people, including the University authorities, for whom seats, were placed ; the walls and ground being adorned and covered with flowers, boughs, arid rushes, in com memoration of the preaching of St. John in the wilderness. b The houses of the heads of Colleges are thus called. c Beneath this window, in the- Cloisters, is buried Mr. Grantham, formerly master to the College School, whose me lancholy, end many at the present day will remember, It is conjectured that on retiring to rest, he was in the act of shutting his window, when, over-balancing himself, he fell into the grove beneath, where he was found dead the next morning, surrounded by the deer, who were greatly attached to him from his habitual kindness to them— the only wit nesses of his sad fate. ¦MZg-.'k . ' ^Magdalen, College-.} MAGDALEN COLLEGE ANTE-CHAPEL. 5 one of the most beautiful in the University.3 In the Ante-Chapel there are two beautiful Corin thian pillars, and some elegant monuments, one of which, on the left of the organ, was erected to the memory of two brothers, named Lyttleton, who were drowned, one by endeavouring to save a This magnificent edifice, according to the opinions of the historian, Anthony a Wood, was finished in the reign of Edward the Fourth, though other authors give a much later date. Many of the ancient decorations which still remain, are, undoubtedly, unrivalled specimens of the sculpture of the loth century. Previous to its completion the Members of the College attended divine service in the Church of St. Peter-in-the-East. Like most ecclesiastical buildings, especially in Oxford, this Chapel has undergone many vicissitudes since its first erection, though it appears to have retained, throughout, much of its original character. Early in the reforming sixteenth century, it was despoiled of its costly decorations, though an attempt was made to restore them between the years 1629 and 1635, when it was furnish ed with richly-gilt and painted panelling and wainscoting, and a handsome screen of oak. The west end, or Ante-Chapel, was also embellished with new windows of the best painted glass of the time. The floor of the Inner Chapel was taken up and replaced by a new one, but the numerous inscriptions thereon were carefully distributed over the surface of the walls, and on the floor of the Ante-Chapel. A new organ was likewise provided at the same time, but all to little purpose ; for on the 19th of May, 1649, Cromwell and the parliamentary generals having been invited to dine in the hall, with the new president, Dr. Wilkinson, their followers under the sanction of their leaders, in return for this well-intentioned kindness, committed the grossest outrages upon the College property. The figure of the Virgin was taken from the gateway, the painted windows were torn out, and trampled under foot, and the organ was removed by Cromwell's order to Hampton Court, where it remained until the restoration. In the year 1740, the Chapel was considerably repaired from the injury it had sustained. The eight windows of the transept, painted by Greenbury, were removed into the choir, and those of the .Ante- Chapel filled with the portraits above described; — a new organ introduced — and the Ante-Chapel paved with Portland stone. But it was not till the year 1833, that the whole was restored to its original splendour, under the able direction of Mr. Cottingham of London ; everything being then executed in the best manner. b3 0 MAGDALEN COLLEGE CHAPEL. the other, in the river Cherwell. The great west window was originally painted, in chiar oscuro, after a design by Christopher Schwartz, and was repaired in 1740, at the enormous sum of £800 : it represents the Last Judgment. The other windows contain figures of St. John, (over which is represented the Baptism of Christ,) St. Mary Magdalene, (above which is our Saviour's appear ance to St. Mary in the Garden,) Kings Henry III. and IV., and Bishops Fox, Waynflete, and Wykeham, and Cardinal Wolsey, founders of Colleges in the University. Proceeding to the Chapel the visitor's atten tion is first directed to the handsome Grecian Altar, of the Corinthian order, which is approached by steps of solid marble. The Altar-Piece is an exquisite picture of Christ bearing His Cross, brought from Vigo, in 1702, and which, though at various times attributed to Guido, Ludovico Caracci, Murillo, and Moralez (called El Divino), is now very generally supposed to have been executed by Ribalta, a master of equal celebrity. Above the Altar, is a representation, in stone, of Christ appearing to Mary in the Garden, by a pupil of Sir Francis Chantrey. The space be tween this and the Altar is enriched with some chastely-designed sculptured marble. The little chapel on the left of the communion-table has been admirably restored, and in it is very appro priately deposited an alabaster tomb of Richard Patten, the founder's father, brought from the church of All Saints, at Waynflete, in Lincoln shire, now demolished. MAGDALEN COLLEGE — CLOISTERS. 7 In the Choir, which is paved with Dorsetshire marble, there are ten windows; each of these contains six figures, in chiar oscuro, represent ing the Apostles, Primitive Fathers, Saints, and Martyrs. Near the centre of the Chapel is a large brass eagle, whose extended wings form a desk, from which the daily lessons of the service are read. It was placed in the Choir in 1633. The Altar- screen, oak seats, and stalls, are beautifully finish ed ; and the Organ-screen, of Painswick stone, is richly carved with suitable devices. Adjoining the latter are the seats of the President and Vice- President; they are extremely handsome, being constructed of splendidly-carved oak. The organ is a richly-toned instrument of great power. Cathedral service is performed here twice every day, at the hours of 10 a.m., and 4 p.m., except on Sundays and Holydays, when the morning service commences at 8 o'clock. From the Chapel we proceed into the Cloisters, which encompass the great Quadrangle, and from having been much restored to their original state, present a good general effect. The interior of the Quadrangle is adorned with grotesque figures and hieroglyphics, amusingly described in a Latin manuscript, called " CEdipus Magdalenensis," in the College Library ; written at the request of Dr. Clark, the President, by a Mr. Reeks, one of the Fellows of the College, whose intention seems to have been to exhibit them as emblems of a system of morals which must furnish a society, 8 MAGDALEN COLLEGE HALL. devoted to learning and religion, with a most instructive lesson.3 The Hall, a grand and well - proportioned room, is situated at the south-east corner of the CIoisters.b A flight of stone steps forms the 1 The following is a translated extract from this manuscript : " Beginning from the south-west corner, the first two figures we meet with are the Lion and the Pelican. The former of these is the emblem of Courage and Vigilance, the latter of Parental Tenderness and Affection. Both of them together express to us the complete character of a good governor of a College. Accordingly they are placed under the windows of those lodgings which, originally, belonged to the President, as the instruction they convey ought particularly to regulate his conduct. " Going on to the right hand, on the other side of the gate way, are four figures, viz. the Schoolmaster, the Lawyer, the Physician, and the Divine. These are ranged along the out side of the Library, and represent the duties and business of the students of the house. By means of learning in general, they are to be introduced to one of the three learned profes sions, or else, as is hinted to us by the figure with Cap and Bells in the corner, they must turn out Fools in the end. " We come now to the north side of the Quadrangle, and here the first three figures represent the history of David, his conquest over the Lion and Goliah, from whence we are taught, not to be discouraged at any difficulties that may stand in our way, as the vigour of youth will easily enable us to surmount them. The next figure to these is the Hippopotamos, or River Horse, carrying his young one upon his shoulders. This is the emblem of a good Tutor, or Fellow of a College, who is set to watch over the youth of the Society, and by whose prudence they are to be led through the dangers of their first entrance into the world. The figure immediately following represents Sobriety, or Temperance, that most necessary virtue of a Col legiate life. The whole remaining train of figures are the Vices we are instructed to avoid. Those next to Temperance are the opposite Vices of Gluttony and Drunkenness. Then follow the Lucanthropos, the Hycena, and Panther, representing Violence, Fraud, and Treachery ; the Griffin, representing Covetousness, and the next figure Anger, or Moroseness. The Dog, the Dragon, the Deer, — Flattery, Envy, and Timidity ; and the last three, the Mantichora, the Boxers, and the Lamia, — Pride, Contention, and Lust." b The old-fashioned Kitchen, built on a portion of St. John's Hospital, is also situated in this direction. It is well worthy of a few moments' inspection. MAGDALEN COLLEGE — HALL. 9 ascent; and an oak screen v/ith double doors leaves ample space between the Hall and the Buttery. Opposite, on the top of the landing- place, is an elliptical arch, with fluted Ionic pilas ters, which correspond with those forming the divisions of the panel-work in the interior. Above this is an oblong panel tastefully decorated with the arms of James I. in the centre, with those of Prince Henry and the College on either side ; being intended as a memorial of the royal visit in 1605, and the matriculation of the Prince as a member of the society. The room has an oriel window on the north side, to the right of the high table, and is wainscoted with oak, and ornamented with armorial bearings, and the fol lowing portraits : commencing on the left, are Colet, Dean of St. Paul's, — Prince Rupert — Dr. Home, Bp. of Norwich, and formerly President — Cardinal Wolsey,1 for merly a Fellow. Over the high table, top row, — Mr. Freman — Bishop Waynflete, the Founder — and Dr. Butler, formerly President : (below) — Addison, formerly a Fellow, — and Dr. Sacheverell, also a Fellow. On the right of the oriel window, Cardinal Pole," gentleman commoner of the College— Dr. Hough, formerly President11— Henry, Prince of Wales, eldest son of James I. — Bp. Fox, founder of C. C. O— Dr. Warner, Bp. of Rochester — Dr. Boulter, Archbishop of Armagh — Dr. Hammond — St. Mary Magdalene, an original picture. a Of Cardinals Pole and Wolsey it was said that " One could be Pope but would not, the other would be Pope but could not." b John Hough, Bishop of Worcester, stands proudly pre eminent, as connected with this College. His firm resistance of the tyrannical commissioners of James II., led, as Hume admits, to important consequences. Perhaps the glorious revolution of 1688, may be attributed in a great degree to the noble conduct of those, whom an apostate member of the College stigmatized as the " Monks of Magdalene." They almost unanimously supported the cause of their injured and 10 MAGDALEN COLLEGE LIBRARY. At the upper end there are some curious figures carved in the wainscot, in nine compartments. They are mostly illustrative of the history of St. Mary Magdalene, and represent 1 . — St. Mary Magdalene anointing the feet of our Saviour. 2. — Christ sitting between Martha and Mary at a table : over them on a scroll, " Martha solicita es, turbaris erga plurima, Maria optimam partem elegit ;" (Martha thou art careful, thou art troubled about many things ; Mary hath chosen the best part ;) beneath, the date, 1541. 3. — Mary anoint ing our Saviour's head. 4. — Royal Arms. 5. — Henry VIII. 6. — Prince's plume. Over the second row are inscribed the 16th and 17th verses of the 3rd chapter of Colossians, in Latin. 7. — The Lord appearing to Mary after his Re surrection; inscribed on scrolls, " Noli me tangere," (Touch me not;) and " Rabboni," (My Master). 8. — Mary in forming the disciples of Christ's appearance, and an inscrip tion, on a scroll, " Vidi Dominum," (I have seen the Lord). 9. — St. John the Baptist and Mary. The Library is a modern restoration, and occupies the western side of the Quadrangle. It is a well-proportioned, though not a lofty room. The extensive and valuable collection of Books are arranged in large and handsome stalls of the best English oak. At the end of the room is a bay insulted President, whose name will be remembered with ho nour and gratitude, as long as it shall be esteemed a virtue in public men to maintain their chartered rights and privileges, against the encroachments of arbitrary power. Relying with perfect confidence on the general issue of the case, Hough dis regarded the sentence of deprivation, though enforced by the overawing accompaniment of three troops of horse ; and in the presence of His Majesty's commissioners, assembled in the Common-Room of Magdalene College, he uttered these memorable words, which deserve to be recorded in letters of gold : — " My Lords, I do hereby protest against all your proceedings ; and against all that you have done, or hereafter shall do, in prejudice OE me and my rights ; AS ILLEGAL, UNJUST, AND NULL J AND, THEREFORE, I APPEAL TO MY SOVEREIGN LORD, THE KlNO, IN HIS COURTS OF JUSTICE." MAGDALEN COLLEGE NEW BUILDING. 11 window, to the right and left of which are beauti ful busts, in white marble, on handsome pedestals, of Locke and Bacon, by E. H. Bailey. Over the entrance is a Portrait of the Founder. On the panels of the book-cases, hang copies of the celebrated Portraits by Vandyck, in the possession of the Duke of Buccleuch. They are the only copies known, and were painted by the permission of their noble owner, by a very promising young artist, of the name of White, who died at an early age, and by whose father they were presented to the College. Through a narrow passage in the north side of the cloisters, we pass to the New Building, 300 feet in length, which consists of three stories of handsome apartments, the whole front being sup ported by a Cloistral Arcade.1 These apartments, together with those on the north and east sides of the great quadrangle, form handsome and con venient lodgings for the members. To the left of this building is a small but beautifully picturesque Grove, studded with fine old elm trees, beneath which a number of deer are constantly gam- boling.b This, and the celebrated and serenely- 3 The New Building was founded in 1733, after a design by Edward Holdsworth, M.A., a Fellow of the College. It must be confessed that it is not much in character with the rest of this antiquated pile of buildings ; and it certainly cannot be a. source of regret that Holdsworth's design for an entire new College on the ruins of the old one, and which may be seen in the Oxford Almanack, for the year 1731, was not carried into effect. b Bounding this is the old second or outer wall of defence to the City. It may be interesting to bring to the recollection of the reader, the noble conduct of the citizens and students in standing boldly against the usurper Cromwell, in defence of 12 BOTANIC GARDEN. shaded Water- Walk, situate on the banks of the Cherwell, (the entrance to which is through an iron gate to the right of the New Quadrangle,) together form rural scenes unsurpassed in Oxford. The latter is delightfully screened from the heat of the sun's rays, by the shade of the lofty trees, which, arching across the walks, overhang the river's banks. A part of it is known as Addison's Walk, where the poet, when a member of this society, passed much of his time, and is supposed to have designed many of his fine prose and poetic writings. At one end of this walk is a rustic Water Mill, and at the summit the stranger is gratified with a fine view of St. Clement's Church, and its vicinity. Retracing our steps to the entrance of the College, opposite its noble Tower are the BOTANIC GARDENS. The ground on which this beauteous combina tion of Nature and Art now stands was used as a burial place by the Jews, who at one time in habited Oxford in great numbers; but early in the 1 7th century it was purchased from Magda len College, for its present purpose, by the Right Hon. Henry D'Anvers, Earl of Danby, and Gentleman Commoner of Christ Church, who was the first through whom the study of Botany King Charles I. ; and, previous to that, resisting the attempts of the Norman William. These, as the bold deeds of our countrymen and ancestors, will afford the most pleasing sensa tions. At one end of the wall, abutting on Holywell Lane, is a small turret, from which the assaulters were without doubt frequently annoyed. BOTANIC GARDENS. 13 obtained a footing in Oxford." The handsome gateway was built from a design of Inigo Jones. In the centre, over the arch, is a bust of the Founder, Lord Danby ; on the right and left are statues of Kings Charles I. and II.b Without the walls, on the left, is the porter's lodge, and near it the Professor's residence, in which is a valuable Library, containing rare works on Natural History and Botany ; besides Lecture- rooms. The present Professor is Dr. Daubeny, who, by his skill and scientific knowledge, has greatly advanced the study of Botany, and much improved the Gardens.0 » On the day of St. James the Apostle, A.D. 1632, the Vice-Chancellor and other dignitaries of the University went in procession from St. Mary's Church to the Garden, where Mr. Edward Dawson, a Physician of Broadgates' Hall, spoke an elegant oration, which was followed by one from Dr. Clayton, the King's Professor of Medicine : after which, the Vice-Chancellor laid the first stone of the rustic archway, and concluded the ceremony by a short address. b Inscription over the Gateway : — Glorise Dei opt. max. honori Caroli Regis in usum Acad, et Reipub. — Translation :— " Dedicated to the glory of the supreme God, and the honour of King Charles, for the use of the University and Kingdom." The cost of this was defrayed out of the fine levied upon Anthony a Wood, for his libel on the Earl of Clarendon. c The first gardener was John Tradescant, the elder, whose name is well-known in connection with this subject. In 1669, a professorship of botany was founded, and Dr. Morison was appointed to that office, with a salary of £40 a year. In 1728, the munificence and talents of Dr. Sherard, a Fellow of St. John's College, and Consul at Smyrna, effected much for the advancement of the science. He presented £500 for the improvement of the Garden, and furnished it with his cele brated Herbarium, which, with those of Dillenius, Morison, and Sibthorp, are still carefully preserved here. In the eyes of Linnaeus, the renowned Swedish naturalist, this Herbarium rendered Oxford pre-eminent among the Universities of Europe for its botanical treasures ; and Sir James Smith, not many years since, pronounced it as (excepting that of the 14 BOTANIC GARDENS. By various subscriptions and donations the Gardens have of late years been greatly improved, and will rank amongst the finest in England. They are well supplied with some of the rarest British and Foreign Exotic, Herbaceous, and Aquatic Plants; and contain, in addition to the celebrated Herbaria, previously mentioned, Aqua ria for growing British and Foreign Plants ; some fine Conservatories ; Green and Hot-houses ; and a large collection of Foreign and English Grasses. The portion designed for the illustration of the Linnsean system of Botany constitutes all to the east of the central walk ; and that devoted to the elucidation of the natural method, all the space westward. The ground beyond the walls is con fined chiefly to plants employed in Medicine, Agriculture, and the Arts; except a portion set aside for experiments connected with vegetable physiology, or practical gardening. There is also learned Swede, in his own possession,) the most ample, authentic, and valuable botanical record in the world. In it may be seen original specimens from most of the writers of that day, named by themselves, and accompanied by remarks, or by important queries which will be found scarcely less instructive. At his death, Sherard bequeathed £3000 to increase the Professor's salary, on condition that his friend, the accomplished Dillenius, who had accompanied him in his travels, should be his successor. At the death of the latter, by an arrangement with Sherard' s executors, the appointment was vested in the College of Physicians at London. In 1795, Dr. Sibthorp, for many years Professor, left a freehold estate, the proceeds of which were, firstly, to com plete and publish his celebrated "Flora Graeca;" and after wards, to found a " Professorship of Rural Economy." This was not accomplished till the present Professor was elected to the chair in 1840. According to the Statute, it is required that the Professor should travel at stated periods for the study and collection of Foreign Plants. MAGDALEN BRIDGE. 15 a Salicetum near the river, containing almost every species of British willow. This most delightful retreat can be visited free from any charge ; it is arranged with great taste, and kept in perfect order by the courteous Curator, Mr. Baxter,3 who is appointed to show the Gar dens ; and as he is a very skilful botanist, and well versed in every branch of the- science, any infqrmation or description of the various plants, &c, may readily be obtained from him: the gate-keeper will direct the visitor to his residence on the premises. In front of the entrance to the Garden on the side of the meadow, there are two Yew Trees of great antiquity, and which, according to the fashion of Dutch gardening in that day, were intended to represent two giants, on guard. These trees have formed the subjects of much rival wit in the University ; three ballads concerning them are still preserved. Adjoining Magdalen College and the Botanic Gardens, and bounded on the right and left by the Water- Walk of the former and the extensive grounds belonging to Christ Church College, is MAGDALEN BRIDGE. The extreme narrowness has, in a measure, spoiled the otherwise beautiful architecture of this bridge which was built in 1779, and is 526 feet in 1 Owing to the age of Mr. Baxter, and his long-continued services, (he having been Curator for thirty-five years,) Convo cation has recently voted him an annuity ; and the duties of the office are now discharged by his son. c2 16 ST. EDMUND HALL. length. It crosses the river Cherwell, and forms the connection between the University and the suburb-parish of St. Clement, and the London coach roads; those to the right conducting to the neighbouring villages of Cowley, Iffley, and Littlemore ;a that to the left leading to Head- ington,b Marston, &c. Proceeding up the High Street, nearly opposite the Angel Hotel0 is Queen's Lane, where, a few yards on the right, is ST. EDMUND HALL. Visitor — The Chancellor of the University. Renowned Characters who were Members of this Hall.. — -The catalogue of eminent men, who have at various periods been members of this Hall, is too long to be inserted ; but amongst the most prominent were — Peter Payne, alias Clerke, a vehement defender of Wicliffe, who was elected Principal in 1410 ; Dr. Mills (whose invaluable edition of the Greek Testament was published a fortnight before his death,) was Principal in 1685 ; Dr. Shaw, the celebrated traveller, was likewise a Principal ; and in the present day must be mentioned the late Vice-Principal, Daniel Wilson, D. D., the learned Bishop of Calcutta. This Hall derives its name from Edmund a At this village there are the remains of a very ancient nunnery, converted into a seminary, by the far-famed Rev. J. H. Newman, for students in divinity. b Leading to this village is a pleasant walk on Headington Hill, at the summit of which stands the far-famed tree, planted by Josiah Pullen, formerly Vice-Principal of Magda len Hall, who died in 1714, aged 83. The beautiful view of the surrounding country which is here obtained, will amply compensate for the previous walk. About half way up the hill a road to the right leads to the Radcliffe and Warneford Lunatic Asylum. c Queen Adelaide made this Hotel her residence when she visited Oxford, in October, 1835. ST. peter's-in-the-east church. 17 le Riche, a native of Abingdon, near Oxford, who was created Archbishop of Canterbury in 1233. He was the author of a popular work entitled " Speculum Ecclesise ;" and is said not only to have delivered Lectures in Divinity and Philosophy, gratuitously, but also to have given pecuniary assistance to the poor students. Ac cording to the prevailing custom of the times, he visited the University of Paris, and on his return home introduced into Oxford the study of Aristotle. He built that part of St. Peter's Church called the Lady's Chapel, wherein his pupils performed their devotions. After his death, he was canonised by Pope Innocent V. : and the 16th of November, the day appropriated to him in the Calendar, was formerly kept as a " gaudy" by the members of the Hall. In 1557, the Hall was purchased from its previous owners by Dr. Denyse, Provost of Queen's, who presented it to that College, in whose possession it still con tinues; Convocation having, in 1559, confirmed to that Society the right to the perpetual appoint ment of the Principal. The present edifices, which date principally about the middle of the seventeenth century, consist of a Chapel, Library, Hall, residence for the Principal, and lodgings for the Students. The front has recently been much improved in appearance by the addition of three Dormer win dows to the upper story. Beyond this building is the venerable Church of c3 18 st. petek's-in-the-east CHOIR. ST. PETER-IN-THE-EAST. *»* Mr. Pearson, the Clerk, High Street, opposite the Angel Hotel, will show the Church. The date of the original foundation of this Church is involved in the same obscurity as that of most of the other parish Churches, in this vicinity; it is certain, however, that there was a Church here in the Saxon times, which is sup posed to have been one of the oldest in Oxford. The present structure is a highly interesting one ; and, perhaps, no building has given rise to more discussion than its celebrated Crypt, commonly called " Grymbald's Crypt," the construction of which is attributed to the time of King Alfred.3 It is a fine specimen of the earliest class of groined vaulting in this country; but, in the opinion of our best Architectural Antiquaries, its real date cannot be far from the year 1100. The Choir above is an interesting specimen of Norman work ; its groined vault is of a richer and lighter character than that of the Crypt beneath, and bears a con siderably later date — probably near the end of the twelfth century. On the north side of the Choir is a Chapel, b built about the year 1240, by St. Edmund of Abingdon, founder of the Hall, which bears his name; here the scholars of this Hall 1 There is a tradition that the celebrated Fair Rosamond came daily to worship at St. Peter's Church from her resi- -dence at Godstow Priory, through this Crypt, to avoid meeting her enemy, Queen Eleanor. b This was formerly the Lady Chapel. There is here a fine altar-tomb, of Petworth marble, to the memory of R. Atkinson, Esq., five times Mayor of Oxford. He is represented on a brass plate, between his two wives, with their eleven children under neath. He died in 1574. ST. PETER S-IN-THE-EAST TOWER. 19 used to celebrate divine service. The large north window in this Chapel was inserted by Vincent Wyking, vicar of the parish in the year 1433. The two elegant lancet windows on the east side, which were long blocked up by monuments, have been lately re-opened, and in the year 1 839 were filled with beautiful stained glass, by Williment, in excellent imitation of the style in use at the period of the erection of this part of the Church ; each contains a figure, one of St. Peter, the other of St. Paul, the gift of the respected vicar, the Rev. Walter K. Hamilton, and of T. Robinson, Esq., the former of whom at this time also caused two small windows in the Church to be filled with stained glass at his own expense. The Nave is about two feet wider than the Choir, but appears to have been originally built at the same time with it, as there is a Norman string course continued along the south wall ; and tbe south door, near the west end, is of a rich Norman character, well worthy of the stranger's attention ; the great west window and the large window on the south side were inserted in 1501. In the north aisle are two elegant windows with the ramified tracery of the fourteenth century, and three fine arches of the same age, with clustered shafts, and capitals of sculptured foliage. The Tower is situated at the west end of the aisle, and is a singular structure of very uncertain date ; it has, at first sight, a great resemblance to D'Oiley'p Tower, at the Castle, which was built soon after the Norman conquest, it being of the same form, (narrower at the top than at the base,) and of 20 ST. PETEr's-IN-THE-EAST CHURCH. rough stone ; but from the graduated buttresses, and from other circumstances, it is not supposed to be earlier than the time of Henry VI., when several windows, as before mentioned, were insert ed, and the Church seems to have undergone a tho rough repair. From that time to the days of the Puritans we find little to record ; in those days of greater zeal than discretion this Church was much mutilated, in common with most other ecclesiastical edifices, and the rich stained glass windows were almost entirely destroyed : but the good taste and liberality of the present age has commenced their restoration. In the time of Queen Anne the Church was fitted up afresh with pews and galleries, the arrangement of them being as bad and incon venient as could well be contrived ; the whole of the Choir and the north Chapel were shut out of the Church by the organ-gallery, and a wooden partition, so that no one could form any idea of the real beauty of the edifice. These obstructions were happily removed in the year 1835, when the Church was, in a great degree, re-pewed and entirely re-arranged, much more conveniently and tastefully, under the direction of the vicar, the Rev. E. Denison, now Bishop of Salisbury : at the same time the great east window was filled with stained glass, principally composed of frag ments which had escaped the fury of the Puritans; and one of the side windows was also glazed with coloured glass, at the expense of Dr. Ingram, President of Trinity College. Few parish Churches will be found to exceed this in objects of interest to the stranger. The ST. peter's-in-the-east — PORCH. 21 Architectural features have been already described; but we should not omit to mention the ancient stone Pulpit,' where the Lent Sermons were delivered before the University for many centu ries. The Font was executed in 1835, from a design of Mr. Blore, in a style which corres ponds well with the beautiful Choir. The PoRCHb is a good specimen of the time of Henry VI., having a groined roof, with a small room over it, a feature not very common in this country ; it has been engraved in " Pugin's Specimens of Gothic Architecture," and is considered by architects as well worthy of attention.0 Returning into the High Street, — a few steps to the right of the Lane is the entrance to 1 This pulpit has two entrances ; one was intended for ordinary use, and the other, by a small stone staircase in the pillar behind, was only used by the University preacher. b In the west window of this antique Porch may be seen a small portion of a very curious font, perhaps the oldest in Ox ford. From this fragment it is easy to calculate that the shape and size of the whole font was a polygon, measuring twelve feet in circumference ; the rotundity being confined to the interior. — Many heads of Colleges, and persons of distinction, are buried within the precincts of this church ; among them may be mentioned Dillenius, one of the first botanists that ever existed ; and Dr. Josiah Pullen, Vice-Principal of Mag dalene Hall, the planter of the tree on Headington Hill. — At the Church-yard gate there was remaining for many years a staple, where some person was executed, it is supposed in Queen Mary's time. c Near the north-western extremity of St. Peter's parish was a Chapel, formed hexagonally out of one of the bastions of the city wall, and supposed to have been dedicated to Our Lady, St. Catherine. A. part of it still remains at the entrance of New College Lane, with an ancient doorway, over which is a mutilated piece of sculpture, probably intended to represent the marriage of St. Catherine. Adjoining to it was Smith- fate, which formed the outlet from Cat Street towards the 'arks. This street received its name from Catherine Hall, which anciently stood on the east side of it. 22 queen's college. QUEEN'S COLLEGE.-^. *** Porter's Lodge — Right-hand further corner of the Quadrangle. This College was founded in 1340, by Robert de Eglesfield, Chaplain and Confessor to Philippa, Queen of Edward III.» Foundation, (old) — A Provost, 16 Fellows, (to be chosen from the counties of Cumberland, of which the founder was a native, and Westmorland, in which he held the Living of Burgh,) 2 Chaplains, 8 Taberdars,b 12 Scholars, and 2 Clerks : Foundation, (new, or Michel's Foundation,) — 8 Master- Fellows, 4 Bachelor-Scholars, and 4 Exhibitioners. There are also other Members not on the Foundation. The number of Members on the College books is about 298. Visitor — Archbishop of York. Places worthy of inspection — The Chapel, Hall, and Library. Renowned Characters who were Members of this College. — These are very numerous : among them were — Prince Edward, eldest son of Edward HI., commonly called the Black Prince ; Henry V. ; Bishops Beaufort, Barlow, Nicolson, Tanner, and Gibson ; the poets Sir John Davies, Sir Thomas Overbury, Wycherley, Addison, Tickell, and Collins ; C. Rawlinson, Thwaites, Rowe Mores, and Tyr- whitt, learned antiquaries ; Holyoake, Langbaine, Hyde, Mill, and Hudson, critics and linguists ; Dr. Edmund Halley, the renowned astronomer, and Savilian professor ; Dr. Richard Burn, (Author of Burn's " Justice" and other valuable works.) * Queen's College was so styled in honour of Queen Philippa, who kindly encouraged and assisted her Chaplain in his design of founding a College. Thus patronized, he soon secured a site for his foundation, and having erected an establishment, he was zealous in making improvements in it until his death, which occurred May 31st, 1349. Queen Philippa condescended to become patroness to the College at the death of the founder : and the Queens of England ever since are considered the patronesses of this Society, several of them having been considerable donors. None of tie original buildings are now standing. b So called from Taberd, a short gown, which was formerly worn by them. >* ^H =»,. Ii;<* ^ ^- queen's college. 23 Perhaps no part of Oxford presents a more magnificent appearance than at the point where this beautiful edifice stands in proud pre-eminence. It is comparatively a modern erection, dating from the close of the seventeenth century; and nothing now remains of the old buildings save the record of them in the archives of the Society. The College now occupies an area of three hun dred feet in length, by two hundred and twenty in breadth, divided by the Chapel and Hall into two spacious Quadrangles. The grand front, which is built in the style of the Luxembourg Palace, abuts on the High Street ; in the centre is the elegant entrance-gate way, surmounted by a cupola supported by pillars, in which is a statue of Queen Caroline, Consort of George IL, who, in 1733, munificently subscribed £1000 towards the completion of the New Build ings founded by John Michel, Esq. This gateway is connected by an ornamented wall with the lofty lateral fronts of the east and west sides, over which are six statues — Jupiter and Apollo (on pediments), and the other four emblematical of the sciences of Geography, Mathematics, Medicine, and Religion. The first or south Quadrangle is 140 feet long, and 130 broad; and has lofty Cloisters, (or, more properly, arcades) supported by square pillars, on the west, south, and east. In the west Cloister are the Provost's lodgings; and over it two stories, consisting of chambers for the Fellows and Students, (to which purpose also, the east 24 queen's college — chapel. Cloister is devoted,) a spacious Gallery and Com mon-Room." The second or north Quadrangle, is 130 feet long by 90 wide, and has the Library on the west, apartments for the Fellows and Students on the north and east, and the Hall and Chapel on the south. The Buildings mostly admired are the Chapel, Hall, and Library. The Chapel, measuring 100 feet long, and 30 broad, is a most elegant building ;b and though the order of architecture is one not usual in * The foundation stone of this Quadrangle was laid on the 6th of February, 1710, (the birth-day of Queen Anne, the reigning sovereign,) by Dr. William Lancaster, the Provost. Hawksmoor is said to have been the architect of this court ; but the work so surpasses his usual style, that it is most probable that it was designed by Sir Christopher Wren, his skilful master. The two staircases in the eastern wing were erected with the benefaction of John Michel, Esq. , of Rich mond in Surrey, a Member of the College. He died Septem ber 5th, 1739 ; and bequeathed his estates in Kent, &c, towards the completion of the New Buildings, and for found ing certain Fellowships and Scholarships. The whole of the western wing of this new Quadrangle, excepting the bare walls, was destroyed by fire, December 18th, 1778 ; it was rebuilt and restored at an expense of £6286 6s. id., which was imme diately defrayed by the voluntary contributions of the Members of the College and their friends, some Colleges subscribing considerable sums for the purpose. Queen Charlotte, regardful of the example of the former patronesses of the Society, generously contributed the sum of £1000. — The first dinner of the English Agricultural Society was held in this square, (July 19th, 1839,) which was covered over, and suitably fitted up for the occasion. The party consisted of 2500 persons. b Sir Christopher Wren gave the original design both of the Chapel and Hall ; N. Hawksmoor, (his pupil,) was the Archi tect. The foundation stone was laid on Queen Anne's birth day, February 6th, 1713'. The Chapel has recently been thoroughly cleaned and embellished, and three of the windows at the west end taken out and copies of them inserted, executed by Mr. Russell, a skilful artist of this city. queen's college — chapel. 25 ecclesiastical edifices, being Doric without and Corinthian within, it has nevertheless a very solemn appearance, arising from the " storied" windows; several specimens of which, remarkable for the brilliancy of their colours, are here seen in high preservation, though 325 years have elapsed since some of them were painted, by Van Linge, for the old Chapel. Commencing on the left, the window in the Ante-Chapel represents the figures of St. Adhelm, St. Osmond, and St. Lawrence — over these, the Crucifixion ; and on the right, St. Margaret— St. Christopher, bear ing the Infant Saviour across a rivulet — St. Ed ward — St. John of Beverley — St. Robert — and St. Anne. The first window on the left of the Chapel contains the figures of three Bishops, with their croziers — 2nd, The Annunciation to Eliza beth — 3rd, The Last Supper — 4th, The Resurrec tion of the Dead ; above, " The Wise Men" — 5th, The Last Judgment; over, The Baptism of Christ— 6th, (over the Altar) The Holy Family, a copy of a very fine painting, by Price, from the original of Carlo Maratti ; above are represented St. Thomas, and St. Peter. Under this window, which is turned circularly in imitation of the an cient tribune of the Roman basilica, the valuable picture at the Altar is a copy, said to be by Mengs, of the celebrated " Night" (La NotteJ of Correggio, in the Dresden Gallery. Proceed ing to the right, the 7th window represents — The Ascension; above, The Passion, St. John, and St. Luke — 8th, The Ascent from the Sepulchre ; above, The Flight into Egypt, and Our Saviour D 26 queen's college — hall. Praying in the Garden — 9th, The Adoration of the Magi — 10th, The Descent of the Holy Ghost — 11th, Two Bishops and a Pope, in their robes. The reading-desk is formed of a brass eagle, on a brass pedestal, the work of Mr. Borraghes, and bears on it the date of 1662, and the inscrip tion, " Regina avium, avis Reginensium."" The screen, which is supported by eight columns of the Corinthian order, is very handsome, and formed of fine Norman oak. The two massive chairs or seats of the Provost and Vice-Provost are fine specimens of antique carving. There is a passage between the Chapel and the Hall connecting the south and north Courts, the walls of which are surmounted by a handsome cupola with eight ornamented Ionic columns. The Hall is internally of the Doric order, 60 feet long and 30 broad, with an arched roof; this noble room is exceeded by few in equality of proportion and grandeur of effect, and is worthy the genius of its designer, Sir C. Wren. Over the ancient marble chimney-piece is a good bust of Aristotle. To the left of the entrance is a portrait of Dr. Cartwright, Bishop of Chester : continuing on the left are those of Tickel, and Addison, (in the window over, Charles II. and his Queen) — Dr. Barlow, (window over, Charles I. and his Queen) — John Michel, Esq., (window over, Eglesfield, the founder) — Queen Henrietta, consort of Charles I. — Queen Caroline — Philippa, * The meaning of this somewhat canting rebus on the College Arms, is, "The Bird of Queen's is the Queen of Birds." BeipTti 2 foot 87" Mouth of the Jfom, J.J/z. ty &/¦*.. Outer ~TOr*. 1IH6T. AEM. M1DCC. 1XSH, ALL SOULS COLLEGE — LIBRARY. 45 Jeremy Taylor, bishop of Down and Connor — John Norris, M.A. —Thomas Sydenham, M.D.— Thomas Ly nacre, M.D. — Sir Clement Edmonds, M.A.— Sir William Byrde, LL.D.— Sir Nathaniel Lloyd, LL.D. — Robert Hovenden, D.D., Warden — and Sir John Mason. In the vestibule of this Library is an ancient Tripod, found at Corinth, and bearing an inscription, of which the following is a translation : Anthony Lefroy, in 1771, presented to the Warden and College of All Souls', this Altar and Tripod, formerly conse crated to Cybele, in the sacred Temple of Corinth. In the window of this room are represented, Henry VI.; St. Edmund; King Arthur; Chichele ; St. Dunstan ; and Archbishop Odo ; which have been executed more than 400 years. There is also an ancient picture of the Founder ; and for the Altar-piece, the original sketch by Mengs of the Head of the Saviour.3 Immediately west of All Souls' College, is a The Old Library is still in existence, but now converted into an elegant set of apartments. It has, hoWe'Ver, been repaired and -fitted up in its original style by the late occupier, the Hon; Charles Augustus Murray, M. A., second son of the Earl of Duhm'ore. Much of the panelling "and carving, of the time of Queen Elizabeth, remains unimpaired. The ceiling is very curious, and is continued through the partition into a lumber- room beyond, to, which the staircase leads. It has, in distinct compartments, the Royal Arms repeated, in plaster' of Paris,' with a rose", a'fleur-de-lis, a portecullis, a harp, E. R., (for Elizabetha Regina,) &c. ; the University Arms ; and the Arms of the fifteen colleges, which were founded before the reign of Queen Elizabeth. There is a tradition that the workmen, when preparing to lay the foundation of the original building, found, in a sewer, a mallard of enormous size : to commemorate this singular circumstance, the festival of the mallard was formerly held on the night of every 14th of January ; and though this observ- 46 ST. MARY'S CHURCH. ST. MARY'S CHURCH." The imposing beauty of this elegant structure, which must rank next in point of architectural magnificence to the Church of St. Peter-in-the- East, already described, requires a more extended ance exists no longer, yet on one of the college gaudies there is still sung in memory of the occurrence, set to ancient music, a merry old song, of which the following is a specimen : — " Therefore, let's sing and dance a galliard To the remembrance of the mallard : And as the mallard dives in pool, Let us dabble, duck, and dive in bowl. Oh, by the blood of King Edward, It was a swapping, swapping mallard." 1 In order to distinguish this Church and parish from that of St. Frideswide, which was likewise dedicated to the Virgin, it was described as " The Parish of St. Mary-the- Virgin in the City of Oxford," which title it still legally retains. According to general tradition, Alfred is said posi tively to have built a Church or Chapel, on the site of St. Mary's, and to have annexed it to the Schools which he founded or restored after the ravages of the Danes. In process of time, by permission of the Crown, a variety of subordinate Chapels and Chantries were erected here, and endowed by individuals or fraternities with annual stipends to the officiating priests. Many of these have been entirely obliterated by subsequent alterations and repairs of the edifice. Some of them existed long after the new Church was erected, on the south side of the old edifice. The Chapels or Chantries were used for the meetings of the University, a general Library, and for schools of various descriptions, before any public academic building was erected. The only portions of the old Church now remaining, and which are most interesting relics, are "The Royal Chapel," and " Our Lady's Chapel ;" the latter has since been called Adam de Brom's Chapel, the Altar-Tomb of that benefactor remaining there at the present time. The " Royal Chapel" is now more generally known as the old Congregation-house, and was originally the Chancel of the old Church. It is in good preservation, and is used as a receptacle for the University engines ; over it is a chamber still preserved for academical use, in which the Vinerian Professor of Law usually reads his lectures. This curious structure may, with great certainty, be attributed to that learned monarch, Henry I., called Beauclerc. ST. MARY'S CHURCH TOWER, SPIRE. 47 notice than the scope of a work like the present will admit. It is dedicated to St. Mary-the- Virgin, and is the Church of that parish. It is also styled the University Church, in consequence of the University Sermons being preached here : these sermons take place every Sunday and Holy day, (morning and afternoon,) excepting Trinity Sunday, and Easter Sunday; when, in their turn, the Dean or Canons of Christ Church preach in the Cathedral; and some few other exceptions.3 The present structure is entirely Gothic, and was completed in 1498. The exquisitely beautiful Tower and Spire will most probably be the chief point of interest to every visitor. Viewed externally, nothing can exceed its imposing ma jesty. It was completed in the reign of Edward 1 1., under the superintendence of his almoner, Adam de Brom. There is an exuberance of decorated pinnacles and niches, the most promi nent of which are enriched with statues. Each angle is flanked with double buttresses of six stages gradually diminishing, and united above by an open parapet of trefoil work, which sur rounds the base of the spire. The panels and gables of the pinnacles are lined with a profusion of pomegranates, in honour of Eleanor of Castile, 1 The names of the ministers, and where the sermons are to be preached, may be learned from a notice affixed to the door of the Buttery of every College on the Saturday preceding : they are also usually announced in the Oxford Newspapers. All the junior members of the University are expected to attend the delivery of these sermons. 48 st. mary's church — chancel, font. mother of Edward IL* The Chancel is said to have been built by Walter Lyhert, or Le Harte, Provost of Oriel, and afterwards hishop of Nor wich, who died in 1472. On the south side are three beautiful stalls or sedilia, of an early date, for the priest, deacon, and sub-deacon, in very good preservation. The remainder was entirely rebuilt at the expense of the University, about the beginning of the reign of Henry VII. The architect was Sir Reginald Bray, then High Steward of the University. The restoration of the interior has been accom plished with much taste, and in a manner highly creditable to the young architect, Mr. T. Plowman, of Oxford, who died in March, 1828, a few days before the completion of the work. It was entirely re-pewed, and new seats erected for the Vice-Chancellor, Proctors, Doctors, and other dignitaries of the University; the Galleries were rebuilt, and the organ, &c, greatly improved. The organ-screen, built with Painswick stone, was erected in 1827, under the superintendence of the same architect, who likewise executed (in 1828,) the elegant Font, at the expense of the present Provost of Oriel College, Dr. Hawkins, for many years vicar of this parish. Near this Font is a mural tablet of statuary marble, supported by elegant figures, executed by Flaxman, and erected to the memory of Sir W. Jones : it corresponds ^ Queen Eleanor gave the large mansion called " Le Oriole," whence Oriel College derives its present appellation, to her chaplain, James of Spain, who conveyed it to the Provost and Fellows of that Society. ST. mary's CHURCH PORCH. 49 with the one in the Chapel of University College. The mutilated remains of the ancient font and pulpit may be seen near the entrance door on the north side. The western window3 of the south aisle has lately been filled with painted glass executed by Wailes, from a design by W. A. Pugin, Esq. in memory of Mr. Bartley, a Com moner of Oriel College. The Porch, facing Oriel Street, was erected in 1637, by Dr. Morgan Owen, Chaplain to Archbishop Laud, at an expense of £230. Over it is a statue of the Virgin, holding a small crucifix, with the Holy Child in her arms; which, at the time of its erection, gave such offence to the Puritans, that it was included in the articles of impeachment against the Archbishop. The following are the dimensions of the Church : length of nave, 94 feet by 54, including side aisles ; chancel, 68 by 24 ; height of the nave, 70 feet ; side aisles, 50. The height of the steeple from the ground to the summit of the spire is 150 feet. Leaving the Church by the northern entrance, the visitor finds himself in the spacious Quad rangle of Radcliffe Square,b (taking its name from the imposing building in the centre,) com- a This window was originally filled with painted glass, representing, in groups of figures, an epitome of the History of the University. b This square is now formed by a part of the Bodleian Library on the north, All Souls' College on the east, St. Mary's Church on the south, and Brasenose College on the west. It was formerly the site of Cat-street, School-street, and three halls, viz. Black Hall, Staple Hall, and Glass Hall. F 50 radcliffe library. posed of some of the most unique buildings in the University; this spot may well entitle Oxford to the name of the modern Athens. As we have stated, in the centre of this group of buildings, almost in the centre of the city, and conspicuous from every point of view, stands the RADCLIFFE LIBRARY.* The foundation stone of this splendid edifice was laid on the 17th of May, 1737, and was founded, at an expense of £40,000, by the emi nent Dr. Radcliffe, physician to William III., and to Queen Anne.b To the above sum he " By the will of the founder, the principal officers of state are the trustees, and appoint the librarian. This structure was at first called the Physic Library, and books relating to Medicine, Anatomy, Natural History, &c., were placed there; and the purchase of books is still confined to works on those branches of science. It had originally been the intention of Dr. Radcliffe to have made an addition to the Bodleian Library, by building a room, 90 feet in length, from the western window of the Selden part of the Library, the height, pf course, to correspond with the length. b A sketch of the career of this celebrated man, who was certainly one of the most extraordinary characters that ever belonged to this University, cannot but prove of great in terest to the general reader. He was born at Wakefield, in Yorkshire, in the year 1650 ; and having acquired a compe tent knowledge of the learned languages at a school in his native town, he became a member of University College, at the age of fifteen. He took his Bachelor's degree in 1669 ; •but though senior Scholar, he despaired of having a Fellow ship ; he, however, obtained one soon afterwards at Lincoln College, to which he had previously removed. Being desirous of following the medical profession, he applied himself with great assiduity and success to the study of botany, chem istry, anatomy, and other necessary departments of science. Having proceeded to the degree of Bachelor of Medicine three years after he had taken that of Master of Arts, he commenced practice as a licentiate in Oxford, and in 1682 radcliffe library. 51 added, also, an endowment of £150 a year for the Librarian's salary, £100 a year for the pur chase of books, with another £100 for repairs. The first librarian was Francis Wise, B.D., Fellow of Trinity College. The Library was opened for the use of students, April 13th, 1749, the building of it having occupied a space of twelve years, under the direction of James Gibbs, Esq., F.R.S. took his degree of Doctor of Medicine. His successful treat ment of Lady Spencer, of Yarnton, near this city, contributed not a little to his advancement in his profession, and to his introduction into the highest circles. This lady was restored to health in three weeks by Dr. Radcliffe, after having been for three years in a state of hopeless suffering, under two other physicians. At length, in 1684, he settled in London, fixing his residence in Bow-street, Covent Garden ; and, according to his apothecary, his receipts were twenty guineas a day before he had been one year in town. As no man acquired wealth more rapidly, so no man sus tained the loss of it with greater composure. The failure of a speculation in which he had embarked £10,000, the an nouncement of which was made to him whilst he was at a tavern, in the company of some persons of the highest rank, seemed not to make the least impression on him ; he took his glass as cheerfully as before, observing only, " that he had nothing to do but to go up 250 pair of stairs, to make himself whole again." Indeed, on one occasion a short time before, he had received a fee of 1000 guineas, from Queen Mary, con sort of William III. ; and in the campaign of 1695, his majesty, King William, having sent for him from England, rewarded his services by an order on the Treasury for twelve hundred pounds. The Earl of Albemarle, also, whom he had restored in a week, after he had languished many months, from a dan gerous fever caught at the siege of Namur, presented him with a diamond ring, and four hundred pounds. Dr. Radcliffe, however, displayed a remarkable degree of unreserved candour and ingenuousness towards his patients, whatever might be their rank ; he also possessed the peculiar faculty of being able to predict the deaths of his patients with singular veracity, and even prognosticated his own. On the King's return from Loo, in Holland, in 1697, his majesty was taken ill at his palace of Kensington, and sent for Dr. Radcliffe, who, after a long conference respecting the nature of the disorder, said, " If your majesty will adhere to my prescriptions, it may be in p2 52 radcliffe library. This Library, from its entire contrast of style with all the surrounding buildings, furnishes a peculiar feature in the architectural history of Oxford. The building stands as it were upon arcades, disposed in a circular form ; and from my power to lengthen your life for three or four years ; but, beyond that period, nothing in physic can protract it : for the juices of your stomach are all vitiated ; your whole mass of blood is corrupted ; and your nutriment for the most part turns to water." Though the King was so much restored by following the advice and prescriptions given him, that he was again able to visit his palace at Loo, where he remained about two years, yet his life v as not protracted beyond the time predicted. He saw the physician but once after his return to England, when, extending his swollen ancles, whilst the rest of his body was almost reduced to a skeleton, " Doctor," said he, " What think you of these?" "Why, truly," replied Radcliffe, " I would not have your Majesty's two legs for your three Kingdoms." This offended the King to such a degree, that though he followed his prescriptions, he never again sent for the physician into his presence. On another occasion, Queen Anne having sent for Dr. Radcliffe in one of her royal carriages, to consult with him, on account of the illness of Prince George of Denmark, the physician assured Her Majesty that he could only keep His Royal Highness alive for six days ; and, to the great grief of the whole court, the event turned out as he had stated. His prediction of the death of old Tyson, of Hackney, was accompanied with a most awful announce ment : he told him, " that he had nothing to do but to go home and die ; that he had raised an immense estate out of the spoil of the public, and the tears of orphans and widows, and that he would be a dead man in less than ten days." The usurer, confounded with the sentence, returned home, and died eight days afterwards. During the last two years of his life, Dr. Radcliffe sat in parliament for the town of Buckingham. At this time he prepared for his own end, which he felt to be at no great distance. He died November 1st, 1714; his body was con veyed from Carshalton to Oxford, and interred with great solemnity in St. Mary's Church, near the north-west corner of the present organ-gallery. Such was Dr. Radcliffe ; a man whose wit and talents were long remembered by his con temporaries ; and whose benefactions will extend to the latest posterity. Though not elected a fellow of University College, Dr. Radcliffe behaved with singular liberality to that Society. RADCLIFFE LIBRARY. 53 the centre rises a spacious and well-proportioned dome. It has a rustic basement, 100 feet in diameter, which is a double octagon, eight squares being distinguished by their projection, and hav ing over each a pediment that forms a gateway. The superstructure is perfectly cylindrical, and adorned with three-quarter columns of the Corin thian order, arranged in couplets. Between these, there is an alternation of windows and niches. Over the latter, next to the architrave, are beautiful festoons of fruits and flowers, which contribute much to harmonise the general effect. The entablature is greatly enriched with carving ; and over it is a balustrade surrounding the whole, finished with vases : this is at the height of 80 feet'; above which, though considerably contracted, is a cupola of 60 feet. We ascend to the Library by a spiral stone staircase, which is light, and well-designed ; it He left them £1100 for repairs and exhibitions, £5000 more for their new buildings, and £600 per annum for the establish ment of two travelling fellowships. The painted window at the east end of the Chapel was one of his first donations to the College ; and in 1700, he gave £200 to be divided equally be tween the Church of All Saints, and Peckwater Quadrangle in Christ Church, He also gave the elegant little bronze figure of Mercury, which formerly stood in the centre of the reservoir in the principal quadrangle at that College. His two greatest works, however, are, the Library, described above, and the Infirmary that bears his name. Through the liberality of his trusters, the Observatory likewise contains evidence of his munificence ; and the Asylum on Headington Hill, at the end of Cheney, or China, Lane, has received so much assistance from the same source, that the committee have given it the name of the Radcliffe Asylum. Perhaps in no other city, has there resided one man, who has left to posterity so many ex amples of a great and good mind, and so true a claim to be called a bright luminary of the age in which he existed. f3 54 radcliffe library. has an elegantly-worked iron balustrade, and is surmounted by a dome, 80 feet from the floor, which is beautifully ornamented in elegant com partments of stucco. Over the entrance is a Portrait of the Founder, by Sir G. Kneller, considered to be the only original picture of Dr. Radcliffe. Around the room is a Gallery supported by pilasters of the Ionic order. On the left of the. entrance is a cast of Anti- noiis;a next to which is Discobolus : continuing in rotation, are — Diana and Fawn ; Laocobn ; right and left of which are two exquisite Candelabras, taken from the ruins of the baths of Hadrian's palace, near Tivoli, the gift of Sir Roger Newdi- gate, Bart.; Apollo Belvidere; Fighting Gladiator ; and the Townley Venus. Over the door-way is a noble statue of the Founder in Doctor's Robes, in marble, by Rysbrach. Most of the casts and busts were the gift of J. S. Duncan, Esq., D.C.L., and P. B. Duncan, Esq., M.A., both Fellows of New College. In cases, under the Gallery, will be found the valuable collection of Corsi Marbles, the gift of Stephen Garrard, Esq., one thousand in number : and in the circular portion without the piers, are the book-cases and reading-tables. In the Gallery. On the right of the door is a wax model, by Michael Angelo, of " Ugolino and his Family perishing in his Castle by famine ;" the subject being taken from Dante's " Inferno." » The names of the Busts, &c, above, in front of the Gallery, (which are seen to advantage from this spot,) are printed in Italic letters, in a subsequent paragraph. Jftwm. k En?.* iy J.kJLS Stirrer. C AMD TTCTLAm MA o flladchfr'ZzhTary.} LprufmJuh'-Ji&f -j. 1831, by She-wood. JVufy.k Janes :iTi 1 ItraivrL 1c 2;ny.d by J.kJJ.S.Sterer^ CABTB1E1LA1B K A , I &OcOr Ziiraiy. I IcnJci.J'^* Jilt ±.i3u, b. S'.-.-,.:.dlT^ i^Jci 56 brasenose college. BRASENOSE COLLEGE.— 5. (Styled in the Charter, "The King's Hall and College of Brasenose.)' Founded in 1509, in the reign of Henry VIII., by William Smyth, Bishop of Lincoln, and Chancellor of the University ; and Sir Richard Sutton, of Prestbury, in Cheshire.11 1 The foundation stone of this beautiful pile of buildings was laid on the 1st of June, 1509. The present frontage occupies nearly the whole of the western side of Radcliffe Square, and the ground, including the Principal's house, (formerly Haberdasher's Hall,) extends southward as far as, the High Street. The College stands on the site of some of the most venerable property in the University, and was originally occupied by no less than four ancient halls, viz., Little University Hall, described by some antiquaries' as one1 of those built by Alfred, and which occupied the north-east angle, near the lane ; Brasenose Hall, whence is derived the name of the College, situated where the present gateway now stands ; Salisbury Hall, the site of a part of, the, present . library ; and Little St. Edmund Hall, which was still more to the southward, about where the chapel is now situated. The name of Brasenose is supposed, and with a great degree of probability, to have been derived from a Brasinium, or brew-1 house, attached to the Hall built by Alfred, but more vulgarly, from some students who had removed to it from the tem porary University of Stamford, where the iron ring of the knocker was fixed in a nose of brass. Whatever may have, been its origin, it appears that the Society still retain the latter interpretation, and display on the face of their College and boat a fully-developed brasen nasal organ. — The ;original buildings, of Headington stone, dug from a quarry granted tol the Founders for that purpose, are still to be seen in their ancient form in the first quadrangle ; but a third story with dormer windows was constructed over a great part of it, in the time of James I., for the accommodation pf additional members : and the tower-gateway and hall completely retain their first character. The genuine door-wicket of the staircase leading to the tower rooms, is a most interesting remnant of the old' College. b Of the Founders of this College, but little authentic information is to be obtained. The precise time of the birth of Bishop Smyth is uncertain ; nor is it known where he prose cuted his studies. He was, however, a Bachelor of Laws at Oxford, in 1492; and was preferred to the rectory of Cheshurst, by Margaret, Countess of Richmond ; and through brasenose college. 57 Foundation— A Principal, 20 Fellows, 26 Scholars, and 18 Exhibitioners. There are also other Members not on the Foundation. The number of Members on the books is upwards of 400. Visitor — Bishop of Lincoln. *»* Pouter's Lodge — On the right of the Entrance Gateway. Places worthy of inspection— The Chapel, and Hall. Among the Renowned Characters who were Members of this College, were— John Fox, author of "The Book of Martp-s ;" Reginald Heber, late Bishop of Calcutta ; and Alexander Nowell, the learned Dean of St. Paul's, author of several Catechisms, and of whom it has been observed, that he came to this College in the thirteenth year of his age, resided thirteen years, founded thirteen scholarships, and died on the 13th day of February, 1602, at the advanced age of 95 years.3 the interest he made with that lady, the University of Oxford is without doubt indebted for the Margaret Professorship of Divinity. By her means, also, he was made Dean of St. Stephen's, a Privy Councillor, President of Wales, Bishop of Coventry and Lichfield, Bishop of Lincoln, and Chancellor of the University. In the beginning of the year 1508, he formed his plan of rebuilding Brasenose Hall, and refounding it as a College, with the assistance of Sir Richard Sutton, and both had the satisfaction of living to see their benevolent design carried into execution. The Bishop died on the 2nd of December, 1513. Of his coadjutor, Sir R. Sutton, the me morials are still less explicit : he, however, is known to have been of a very ancient and respectable family. He was a barrister of the Inner Temple, and a member of the Privy Council of Henry VII. His will was proved in St. Paul's Cathedral, November 7th, 1524; and he was supposed to have died a few days previously. a In addition to the benevolent Founders, the College soon obtained numerous other benefactors. The most dis tinguished of these are Mrs. Joyce Frankland, (who con tributed largely to this and Lincoln Colleges, Oxford, and to Caius and Emanuel Colleges, Cambridge) ; Lord Mordaunt ; Dr. Samuel Radcliffe, Principal ; Sarah, Duchess of Somerset, whose Scholarships are numerous and well-endowed. Mr. Hulme, of Kearsley, in the county of Lancaster, founded fifteen Exhibitions, four of them to maintain four poor Bache lors of Arts, for four years; and recently, in 1842, three 58 brasenose college HALL. This College consists of two Courts, in the first of which the Hall and apartments for the Members are situated ; in the centre of the same Quadrangle is a fine cast, by some supposed to be " Sampson slaying a Philistine with the jaw bone of an Ass ;" while others imagine it to be " Cain killing his brother Abel." The Hall, which is on the south side of this Quadrangle, is a well-proportioned room, it is entered by a curious specimen of a shallow porch, that has only of late years been cleaned out and brought to light. Over it are two very ancient busts ; one of King Alfred, who founded Little University Hall, on the site of which part of this College now stands ; and one of John Erigena, who, about the year 882, is said to have read lectures in Oxford. The Hall is embellished with the following portraits : — Dr. Yarborougb, Dr. Yate, and Dr. Hodson, former Principals; Dr. Gilbert, the late Principal; the late Marquis of Buckingham; Bishop Smyth, and Sir R. Sutton, the Founders, with a curious and ap parently contemporaneous painting of the former on the bay window at the upper end of the room; Mrs. Joyce Frankland; Dean Nowell, Exhibitions, to be called the Colquitt Clerical Exhibitions, were founded by Elizabeth, Susan, and Lucy Colquitt, of Green Bank, in the county of Lancaster, in compliance with the wishes of their sister, Mary Colquitt, deceased ; one to be established immediately, and the others on the decease of the survivor of the said three sisters ; and they are intended for the sons of indigent or deceased clergymen, or of such laymen as cannot, unaided, support the expenses of a College life, to assist them in their education for the Ministry of the Church of England, according to its articles and liturgy. brasenose college — library. 59 who is represented with a fishing-rod over his head, and a paper of fish-hooks in his hands; King Alfred ; Bishop Cleaver ; Sir Thomas Eger- ton; Dr. Latham, late President of the College of Physicians; John, Lord Mordaunt; Lord Chancellor Ellesmere; Dr. Burton, author of " The Anatomy of Melancholy ;" Dr. Samuel Radcliffe; Sarah, Duchess of Somerset; and Dr. Kaye. In this room the Royal Arms are finely carved in oak. There is also a newly-painted window by Warrington, lately put in at the expense of the Fellows of this Society. The original centre fire-place, with the lantern or louvre above, were not removed from this Hall, until 1760, when the present chimney-piece was given by the Hon. Ashton, afterwards Lord Cur- zon, a member of the College. Through a passage on the left of the gate of the first Quadrangle, we enter the second, on the east side of which is the Library; the Ghapel being situated on the south. The Library, which has been much improved, has a good collection of books.3 At the upper 1 The present Library, which, with the Chapel, are said to have been designed by Sir Christopher Wren, was finished in the year 1663. The interior, as now seen, was fitted up under the superintendence of Mr. Wyatt, in 1780. The necessity for a new arrangement of the books arose chiefly from the large collection bestowed by the heirs of Principal Yarborough, who died in 1770 ; the classical portion is en riched by the manuscript notes and collections of the learned Wasse, of Queen's College, Cambridge, and the rival of the celebrated Bentley. Dr. Barker, Principal in 1777, contributed £300 towards these improvements. Under the Library were formerly Cloisters, which have recently been converted into apartments. 60 BRASENOSE COLLEGE — CHAPEL. end there are two fine busts ; one of the Right Hon. Lord Grenville, late Chancellor of the University, (by Nollekens); the other of Dr. Kaye, Bishop of Lincoln, the Visitor. The ceil ing of this room is particularly elegant. The Chapel, which has also undergone great improvement, is elegantly fitted up.a The roof, of rich fan tracery, is a chaste specimen of Gothic architecture, and is strikingly beautiful. The splendid marble Altar, with its Grecian decora tions is justly admired. The Candlesticks upon the Communion-table are of silver-gilt ; they are dated 1677, and were the gift of the first Lord Ellesmere, Lord Chancellor, &c. There is also a good brass Eagle, presented in 1731, by Thomas Lee Dummer, Esq., a gentleman-commoner of the College. The east window is decorated with the figures of St. Matthew, St. John, Jesus Christ, St. Mary, and St. Luke, executed by Pearson, from a design by Mortimer, and was the gift of Dr. Crawley, Principal in 1776.b In 1 The first Chapel used by the Society was a small oratory over the Buttery, now used as the Common-Room of the Fellows and Masters of Arts. The foundation stone of the present ChapeL was laid June 26, ] 656, and finished ten years afterwards, having been consecrated by Bishop Blandford, November 17th, 1666. Dr. Samuel Radcliffe, who was forcibly and illegally ejected by the parliamentary faction of the 17th century, had contributed £1850 for a new edifice ; and by the liberality of the other Members of the College, a sufficient sum was afterwards collected to finish both the Chapel and Library. b A very remarkable effect may be observed in the ChapeL when viewed on a summer evening from Radcliffe Square ; the sun, being level with the west window, shines directly through the whole length of the Chapel, and lights up the stained glass in this east window most brilliantly. THE SCHOOLS. 61 the Ante-Chapel are several handsome monu ments, especially one to the memory of Dr. Shippen, a former Principal ; and one, of marble, erected at the expense of the undergraduates of the college, to the memory of the Rev. James Smith, M.A., for some years the greatly-respected Vice-Principal, who died on the 10th of October, 1838. On this monument are two well-executed full-length figures of students in their academical costume. On leaving the College, the visitor should turn to the left; and by continuing his route north wards, through a passage ornamented with a well-groined stone vaulting, he will enter the handsome Quadrangle of THE SCHOOLS. These are not the property of any one College, but belong to the University as a body.3 The respective faculties are still distinguished by the a The majority of the original Schools, which were very nearly on the site of the present erection, were attached to the halls, situated in School Street. The first reduction of them into one building was made by Abbot Hokenorton, of Osney, in the year 1439. In 1532, a further attempt was made to increase their extent, but failed, owing to the disturbed religious state of the country at that time ; and although a considerable sum of money was actually spent on them, yet the whole area, between the original Schools and the Divinity School was converted into a garden and pig-market (the latter appellation being still given to a portion of the present edifice) ; the schools themselves were completely abandoned by both scholars and masters, and were used by glovers and laundresses. In 1554, the University obtained from the dean and chapter of Christ Church a grant of the present site, and some repairs were commenced in 1558. The first stone of the present structure was laid in 1612, the day after the funeral of G 62 the schools. inscriptions over the doors in letters of gold ; though, with the exception of those devoted to Medicine and Natural Philosphy, they have long ceased to be used according to their original intention.3 At the north-east corner are those which are now used as the Schools for the Public Examination of Students previous to their taking a degree. The principal entrance is from Catharine or Cat Street, opposite to Magdalene Hall, under a handsome groined archway, the folding oak doors of which are ornamented and elaborately carved with Royal Arms and devices, as also the Arms of its noble proposer, Sir Thomas Bodley. The architect was Thomas Holt, of York, who died at Oxford in 1624, and was buried in Holywell Church-yard ; and a remarkably goo d specimen of his skill is the groined vault of the passage under the eastern wing of the Bodleian Library, and which is that portion usually known as the pig-market. a The following appointment of the several Schools for each faculty and science is recorded in one of the University Registers, and, as above stated, is notified by inscriptions over the doors in letters of gold : — On the South Side, Medicine and Anatomy, since taken into the Bodleian Library, with the school of Natural Philosophy under it : contiguous to the former, and on the same story was the school for Hebrew, afterwards Music and Rhetoric, (sometime used as a drying- room for the press,) now forming a part of the Library, under which is the present Music school. The North Side contained the school of Civil Law, now an additional room to the Library, having under it that of Moral Philosophy, since appropriated to the reception of the Arundel Marbles, &c. : the Greek school adjoins the Law school, having the Grammar school ¦underneath, now the Examination school. The East Side was devoted to Geometry and Arithmetic (together), — with Metaphysics underneath, now added to the Examination school. On the other side of the tower was the school of Astronomy, with that of Logic underneath, formerly contain ing the collection of Marbles known as " the Pomfret Statues," but which have recently been transferred to the Randolph or University Galleries, in Beaumont Street. the schools. 63 the University, and of all the Colleges which at that time existed, including those of Wadham, then recently founded. The tower of this gate way is composed of the five orders of architec ture ; it contains, over the archway, four rooms or stories ; the first and second form a handsome part of the Bodleian Library and Picture Gallery ; the third is the Archive room, and contains the Muniments, Registers, and other public docu ments of the University, — hence this tower is not unfrequently called the Muniment Tower; and the fourth or top one was originally intended as an Observatory for the use of the Astronomical Professors, but is now consigned to the service of the Reader in Experimental Philosophy.3 Near the top is a statue of James I., enthroned, with his right hand presenting a copy of his works to Fame; and with his left, another copy to the University. Over, are the emblems of Justice, Peace, and Plenty ; these were at one time double-gilt, and so splendid, that when the sun shone on them they were too dazzling to behold. Proceeding to the south-western doorway of the Schools' Quadrangle, the visitor will be con ducted by a long, but by no means a tedious staircase, to the * Over the entrance archway, and in the upper story of the tower, fronting the area, are the Royal Arms, with supporters, &c. : over the northern archway are the Arms of the University, ensigned with the round cap, and supported by two angels : over the southern archway, leading to Radcliffe Square, is the family escutcheon of William, Earl of Pembroke, with an inscription, in letters of gold, denoting that he was then Cham berlain of the King's household, and Chancellor of the University. g2 64 BODLEIAN LIBRARY. BODLEIAN LIBRARY; Or, Public Library of the University : [Receiving its name from the munificent Sir Thomas Bodley, though he was not the original Founder 'of the whole edifice.a His life was not spared to see even the completion of his first addition to the Library, in the east wing, which was not finished until the year after his death : but it was enough for him to accomplish, to have re-fitted and re-furnished the original Library, which at that time was reduced to so miser able a condition, that not more than three or four volumes remained in it. The regeneration, however, was executed with such zeal that on the 8th of November, 1602, being in possession of more than two thousand volumes, the Library was opened with great ceremony, and dedicated to the Univer sity on that day, which is still commemorated by the annual visitation.] *„* The Visitor will first proceed to the Picture Gallery, in the story above, where the Janitor of both rooms is always in attendance. On entering the Library the eye first meets an admirable portrait of the Founder, by Cornelius Jansen. In the room there are two or three other portraits of great interest : one by Vandyck, of Junius, famed for his skill in the Teutonic and other languages of northern Europe ; an exquisite a The first donor of books to the University was Roger . L'Isle, or De Insula, dean of York, who, early in the 13th century, gave several copies of the Bible, to be used by the Scholars of Oxford, under a pledge. About the year 1302, Thomas Cobham, bishop of Worcester, having given his books to- the University, commenced the erection of a Library over the old congregation house ; some remains of it may still be traced in the blank space behind the east end of the present Law school, a partition having been made to reduce the room to a rectangular form. The actual Founder of the magnificent work attributed to Bodley, was Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, son of Henry IV., who furnished the money BODLEIAN LIBRARY. 65 portrait of Selden by Mytens ; and a very unique one of Humphrey Wanley, the celebrated librarian to the Earl of Oxford, and an under librarian here. The ceiling is painted in a very effective style, and is divided into square compartments, each illustrated with the Arms of the University ; and those of Bodley are at every angle, giving to the whole a strikingly rich effect. The books in this part of the edifice retain their ancient classified arrangement, according to the will of Sir Thomas Bodley : this plan was not discon tinued till the constant increase of books,3 re quired an economy of space such as could never be obtained by following the original intention. Bodley's designs were soon succeeded by nu merous benefactions: the famous collection of more than two hundred Greek MSS., formed by Giacomo Barocci, a Venetian nobleman, was for carrying on that portion over the Divinity school ; and in a letter written to him by the University, in the year 1445, he is styled the Founder of this portion of the building. At his death, in 1447, he left £100 for its completion, with several valuable MSS. ; it was finished in 1480, in a more elaborate and splendid manner than was at first intended, through the contributions of Cardinal Beaufort ; Joseph Kemp, archbishop of York ; Thomas Kemp, bishop of London ; Archbishop Morton, and others. To this super structure, Sir Thomas Bodley added his own (or, rather, the commencement, as he did not live to witness its completion,) great work, forming the eastern wing of the present Library, and which was built on such a model as to harmonize with the original structure ; the commencement of it may be easily traced at the termination of the last buttress at the north-east angle, where probably the first stone was laid : the western wing, called the Selden Library, was erected between the years 1630 and 1640, with very questionable taste. * A large addition is annually made ; as, under the act of parliament for securing copyright, the Library receives a copy of every work printed throughout the kingdom. g3 66 BODLEIAN LIBRARY. added in 1629, by the Earl of Pembroke, then Chancellor of the University. Four years after wards, nearly the same number of MSS., chiefly Latin and English, were given by Sir Kenelm Digby; these, with the former, it is supposed were presented at the instigation of Archbishop Laud, who succeeded the Earl in the Chancellor ship of the University, and himself presented the Library with more than 1300 European and Oriental MSS. Shortly afterwards, the Library of the learned Selden was deposited here by his executors, consisting of more than 8000 volumes of printed books and MSS., nearly all of which bear the name and motto of that distinguished individual. Numerous benefactors followed this example; Lord Sunderland made a donation of a splendid collection of early plays and English poetry, formed by Malone, the Editor of Shaks- pere; in the topographical department, the books, maps, and manuscripts of the celebrated antiquary, Richard Gough, Esq., may be considered a very great acquisition : and within the last few years, the late Francis Douce, Esq., has munificently added his tastefully-collected museum of very rare printed books, manuscripts, coins, medals, prints, and drawings, the accumulated stores of years of patient and untiring research : for their reception, a separate and distinct part of these extensive buildings has been judiciously appropriated, and a catalogue of the valuable contents is now printed.3 a Grateful for these numerous bequests, the curators of the Bodleian are about to present to the literary world a catalogue of the whole contents of the Library from its foundation to BODLEIAN LIBRARY. 67 In addition to the great numbers already enume rated, the Bodleian contains the manuscripts of D'Orville; Clarke, the celebrated traveller; the Abbate Canonici of Venice; some splendidly- illuminated Mexican manuscripts; the printed books and manuscripts of the Oppenheimer family, well known to comprise the most valuable library of Rabbinical literature ever collected together; an extensive supply of early printed Bibles ; and 50,000 Dissertations by learned members of foreign Universities. Amongst the numerous works of art in this room, there is, in the Selden Library, a very elegant model, composed of rose-wood, inlaid with mother-of-pearl, of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, at Jerusalem, as it now stands. The funds of the Library are kept up by small fees paid by every member of the University at his matriculation ; by a trifling annual contribution from all Members as soon as they shall have taken their degree of B.A.;3 and by an annual amount of £2000 to purchase works of literature and art from any country. All members of the University who have taken a degree, are permitted to study in this Library, but no books are allowed to be taken from the premises. Strangers of any country, having an introduction to the librarian through a Master of Arts, may read and take extracts from any works the present time, prepared in a masterly manner, by gentle men well skilled in this department. •This fund was established at the suggestion of Lord Stowell, and at first produced only £400. 68 BODLEIAN LIBRARY. they may require, and which will be brought to them by one of the under librarians, or assistants, in attendance.3 [The reader will naturally expect from us a sketch of the career of that eminent and illustrious public benefactor to the University, and to the whole literary world — the Founder of the above Library. Our limits will only permit of a few cur sory remarks. Sir Thomas Bodley, descended from the ancient family of the Bodleighs of Dunscomb, was born at Exeter, March 2nd, 1544. About 12 years afterwards, his father removed with his family to Geneva, to avoid the persecu tions of Mary's reign ; but on the accession of protestant Elizabeth, he returned to England in 1558, and settled in London. During his short stay in Geneva, young Bodley was not idle. He frequented public lectures ; heard Che- valerius on the Hebrew tongue— Bervaldus on the Greek — Calvin and Beza on Divinity. He boarded in the house of Philibertus Saracenus, a learned physician, where he had the advantage of domestic instructors. Here, Robert Constan- tine — the celebrated author of the Greek Lexicon — read Homer to him : these studies probably were the means of laying the foundation of the future edifice of literary fame ; and here, he doubtlessly imbibed that love of books, which formed so distinguishing a feature in his character. At the age of 14, he was admitted to Magdalene College, Oxford, where Dr. Humphrey, afterwards president, was his tutor. In 1563, he took his B.A. Degree, and was admitted M.A. in 1566. In the meantime he was elected a Fellow of Merton College, where he continued for several years to read a public lecture on the study of Grecian Literature — then much neglected. In 1569 he was junior proctor ; and supplied the place of public orator for some time afterwards. From 1576 to 1580, Bodley travelled through France, Ger- » The Library is open throughout the year, excepting Christmas week, and the first weeks in September and No vember, when it is closed for the purposes of cleaning and preparing for the annual visitation. On Saints' days it is not opened until the conclusion of the University Sermon at St. Mary's, usually about half-past eleven. The regular daily hours are from nine in the morning till four in the afternoon, during summer, and from ten to three in winter. picture gallery. 69 many, and Italy ; and though he then returned to College, he was afterwards employed by Queen Elizabeth at home and abroad, (as our minister to the Hague, and elsewhere,) till 1597 ; when, at the age of 53, he resolved, as he himself emphatically states, " to take a full farewell of state employ ments, and to set up his staff at the Library door in Oxford ; being thoroughly persuaded that he could not busy himself to better purpose, than by reducing that place, which then lay ruined and waste in every part, to the public use of students." The means he adopted to carry out his determination, have been fully detailed in our account of the Library. During the remainder of his life, though daily watching and providing for the permanent prosperity of his enterprise, he resided. chiefly in retirement, at Parson's Green, Fulbam ; he died, however, at his house in London, January ,28th, 1612, at the age of 68 years. Though he did not live to see the completion of any great portion of the vast building which he had projected, in con junction with Sir Henry Saville and Sir John Bennett, yet Sir Thomas Bodley had the satisfaction of seeing the whole design in a fair way to be fulfilled. The confidence which he felt in the prospect is expressed in the following terms : " The project is cast : and whether I live, or die, it shall, God willing, be put into full execution." TTi'r anxiety for the proper execution of the works is evident from one of his letters to Dr. James, who was his first Librarian : — " I had rather cast it down, than that it should stand with any palpa ble faults." For any further particulars of this great man, the reader must be referred to the numerous works respect ing him, in the Library itself.] Continuing the ascent to the uppermost story of the staircase, the visitor is admitted into the PICTURE GALLERY. *** A Catalogue of the Portraits, Models, and other Curiosities in this Gallery, maybe obtained of the Janitor, who is always in attendance. This room contains portraits of the chief benefac tors, founders, and chancellors of the University, 70 picture gallery. and on this account forms an interesting feature. On the staircase leading to the Gallery, are busts of Sir Thomas Bodley and Dr. Wallis, besides several Portraits. Near the entrance of the Gallery is a chair made of part of the ship in which Admiral Drake sailed round the world, on which is the following inscription : — To this great Ship, which round the globe has run, And match'd in race the chariot of the Sun ; This Pythagorean Ship (for it may claim Without presumption, so deserved a name) By knowledge once, and transformation now, In her new shape this sacred port allow. Drake and his Ship could not have wish'd from Fate An happier station, or more blest estate : . For, lo ! a seat' of endless rest is given, To her in Oxford, and to him in heaven. ABRAHAM COWLEY, 1662. Sent to the University of Oxford, by Order of John Davis, Esq., the King's Commissioner at Deptford. Here are also full-length Portraits of George III., in youth ; and William IV. and Adelaide ; the latter presented by her majesty, the Queen Dowager, to commemorate her visit to Oxford in 1835. Near the above, in the window-places, are a fac simile of the Death- Warrant of Charles I. ; a bust of John, Duke of Marlborough ; the Lantern used by Guy Faux, with a fac-simile of the letter divulging the Plot, which was sent to Lord Mont- eagle, (with portraits of the Conspirators) ; and models of the Elgin marbles, that are deposited in the British Museum. In the centre of the eastern portion of the Gallery — (called poets'' 2r*. -.:<--7..'/. Foundation — A Rector, 12 Fellows, 8 Scholars, 12 Exhibi tioners, and a Bible Clerk. There are also other Members not on the Foundation. The number of Members on the College books is 209. Visitor — The Bishop of Lincoln. *„* Porter's Lodge — Right of the entrance gateway. Places worthy of inspection — The Chapel and Hall. 3 The interior of this college retains most of its ancient character, particularly the north quadrangle. The vine is still seen trained against the walls. This peculiarity has hitherto escaped notice ; the allusion to the vine in Tris- troppe's sermon, (see note b,) most probably suggested this emblematic memorial of Archbishop Rotheram's founda tion. The hall has received but little external alteration from that built by Dean Forest in 1436. The doorway at the opposite end of the passage is worthy of notice ; and the back of the hall, covered with very old-looking creepers, has a most picturesque effect. b The unexpected death of Bishop Flemmyrtg before the complete foundation of his Society, and the revenues being ex-' ceedingly small, the latter were materially increased by some benefactions, and the Society soon obtained a Second Founder in the person of Bishop Scot, or De Rotheram, (as he was called from the place of his birth,) who obtained a new charter from Edward IV., drew up a body of statutes, which had long been wanting, increased the number of fellowships, and was a great benefactor in several other respects. He is said to have been moved to this munificence towards the LINCOLN COLLEGE. 113 Among the Renowned Characters who were Members of this College, were—T)i. Kilbye, one the translators of the Bible ; Dr. Marshall, the great Saxonist and Oriental Scholar ; Robert Flemmyng, a renowned author, and the founder's kinsman ; Grey ; Hervey ; and Wesley, the founder of the Methodists, who was a Student of Christ Church, and subsequently Fellow of this College : he died in 1791, at an advanced age.a This College comprises two small Quadrangles : the first forms a square of 80 feet ; on the right is the Rector's lodgings ; on the left, the Library and Common-Room ; the Hall faces the entrance, and the remaining wing is occupied with apart ments for the Members. The inner Quadrangle is a square of 70 feet ; it has on the right, college through a sermon preached by John Tristroppe, the third rector, on the text, " Behold and visit this vine," &c. Rotheram was first elected to King's College, Cambridge ; then Fellow and afterwards Master of Pembroke Hall. High in favour with Edward IV., he was appointed provost of Beverley ; then Bishop of Rochester : he was next elected Chancellor of the University of Cambridge ; Prebendary of Sarum ; then Bishop of Lincoln ; and afterwards Archbishop of York. He was secretary to four Kings, and three times Lord High Chancellor of England : he died at Cawood, May 29 th, 1500, in the 77th year of his age. * This wonderful man, in the course of his itinerancy, is supposed to have travelled nearly 300,000 miles, and to have preached 40,000 sermons. From the Charter-house, he was removed, in 1720, to Christ Church, and from thence, in 1726, he was elected fellow of Lincoln College. Though not eccen tric in the habits of his life, yet the strictness of his religious principles was sufficiently remarkable to afford subject for satire. When other young members of the university became associated with him, a distinct religious society was formed, and its principles where then vigorously assailed. The mem bers of it received the derisive epithets of Bible-bigots, Bible- moths, the Holy or Godly Club. One person, however, with less irreverence and more learning, observed, with respect to their methodical plan of life, " that a new set of methodists was sprung up," alluding to the ancient school of physicians, known by that name. l3 114 LINCOLN COLLEGE CHAPEL, HALL. The Chapel, a Gothic building,, 62 feet by 26, built in 1631. The ceiling consists of compart ments in cedar, embellished with the arms of the founders and principal benefactors, intermixed with cherubim, palm branches, festoons, &c., beautifully painted and gilt. The lower cedar desks are terminated with eight well-executed figures, likewise in cedar, viz. — Moses, Aaron, the four' Evangelists, St. Peter, and St. Paul. The screen, is also of cedar, richly carved. The win dows are entirely of painted glass, brought from Italy in 1629 ; they are brilliantly rich in colour ; those on the left represent twelve of the Prophets ; those on the right twelve of the Apostles. 1st window, Elisha, Jonah, and Obadiah ; 2nd, Amos, Zechariah, and Malachi ; 3rd, Isaiah, Jeremiah, and Ezekiel ; 4th, David, Daniel, and Elijah ; 5th, (the east window, over the altar,) divided into six compartments, contains the types and anti types of our Saviour ; 6th, Peter, Andrew, and James, major ; 7th, John, Philip, and Bartholo mew ; 8th, Matthew, Thomas, and James minor ; 9th, Jude, Simon, and Matthias. The Hall, a noble room, 42 feet by 25, was repaired in 1701, in a handsome style, at the expense of Lord Crewe and others. His arms, with those of other benefactors, are among the present embellishments of the apartment ; it also contains the following portraits, (commencing on the left of the entrance, and continuing in rotation) : — Lord Crewe ; Dr. Isham, rector ; a portrait — unknown ; Dr, Hickes ; Dr. Paul Hood, rector : at the upper end, Sir ALL SAINTS' CHURCH. 115 Nathaniel Lloyd ; a full length portrait of Dr. Tatham, the late rector ; Lord Crewe : under these, Archbishop Rothe- ram ; Lord Keeper Williams ; the Founder : continuing on the right, a portrait — unknown; Judge Dolben; another portraits — unknown ; Lord Crewe ; Dr. Hutchins, rector. The ancient Louvre, or Lantern, still remains unaltered in the exterior of the roof.a The Library, on the north side of the outer court, over the Fellows' Common-Room, is stored with a valuable collection of books ; there are also some ancient manuscripts ; and portraits of Lord Crewe and Sir Nathaniel Lloyd .b Adjoining Lincoln College, and abutting on High Street, is ALL SAINTS' CHURCH, The patronage of it being in the gift of the above society, is usually held as a curacy by one of the Fellows. It is built of Headington stone, from a design by Dean Aldrich. The body of the Church is ornamented, internally and externally, with Corinthian pilasters, over which is an attic story finished by a balustrade. The Graeco-Gothic Spire and Tower are greatly admired ; the interior 3 At the south end of the hall, are the rector's lodgings, constructed about the year 1465, chiefly out of the sum of £200, given to the society for that purpose, by Dr. Thomas Beckyngton, bishop of Bath and Wells. In memory of this benefaction his anniversary was appointed to be kept by the College ; and the rebus of his name, a %, with a beacon fixed in a tun, is repeated, in several places, on the walls of the fabric. b The great work of Thomas Gascoigne, a benefactor to the Library, entitled the " Dictionarium Theologicum," is still one of its most interesting ornaments. 116 ALL SAINTS' CHURCH. of the latter on the ground-floor, is fitted up as a vestry-room ; in the centre is a table-tomb, to the memory of Dr. Tatham, late rector of Lincoln College; the upper part of the Tower contains five bells. The proportions of the interior (72 feet long, by 42 wide, and 50 high,) produce a good effect. The roof is remarkable for the extent of its span, unsupported by any pillars; the ceiling is handsomely ornamented with fret work, around which are painted the arms of Queen Anne, the Duchess of Marlborough, and other contributors to the building. The Altar- piece of stone, coloured in imitatfon of marble, was the gift of Lord Crewe, bishop of Durham : it cost £500. The old church, dedicated to St. Michael, St. Mildred, and All Saints', was almost totally demolished, owing to the. fall of its spire in 1697; and the new edifice was completed in nine years afterwards.3 Returning through Turl Street, opposite the front of Exeter is that of 3 A few yards above All Saints' Church, in High Street, is THE GENERAL MARKET, Built from a plan by Mr. Gwynne, and opened in 1774. It occupies a space of 347 feet in length, and 112 in breadth, which is intersected by three avenues, one up the centre, and two across the whole market, and is formed into three divi sions for butchers, dealers in poultry and bacon, and vendors of fruit, vegetables, &c. On market days (Wednesday and Saturday,) the supply of every article of provision is equal to any market in. the kingdom. Within the last year or two the northern end and entrance have been considerably en larged, an addition made of several shops, faced with stone, and this part covered with a roof composed with blue slates supported by strong though light iron-work. There is a separate market for the sale of corn, &c, in the open corridor beneath the Town Hall. JESUS COLLEGE. 117 JESUS COLLEGE. Founded by Queen Elizabeth in 1571.3 Foundation — A Principal, 19 Fellows, 18 Scholars, and several Exhibitioners. There are also other Members not on the foundation. The number of Members ou the College books is 145. Visitor — The Earl of Pembroke. *** Porter's Lodge — On the left of the gateway. Places worthy of inspection — The Chapel and Hall. Among the Renowned Characters who were Members of this College, were — Archbishop Usher ;b Drs. Powell, Davies, Prichard, and Bandinel ; the latter having, been Public Orator, and first Bampton Lecturer. 3 The College was first founded by Queen Elizabeth, on the petition of Hugh Price, or Ap Rice, treasurer of St. David's. He was born at Brecknock about 1500, and graduated at Oxford as LL.D. in 1525. Tradition says that he was edu cated at Osney Abbey under his uncle, who was a canon there. He died at Brecknock in 1574. The society, after languishing for some years, experienced a new era with the admission of Sir Eubule Thelwall to the office of Principal in 1621. He procured a new charter and statutes, and so increased the revenues of the College, that it was enabled to maintain double the number of fellows and scholars ; and built a considerable portion of the first quadrangle, &c, at his own expense. There is a marble monument against the south wall of the arch leading to the chancel, erected to his memory by his brother, Sir Bevis Thelwall. He was suc ceeded in the principalship by Dr. Mansell, (whose monu ment is opposite to that of Sir Eubule,) who was related to the Earl of Pembroke, then Chancellor of the University, Dr. Mansell resigned in 1661, in favour of the well-known Sir Leoline Jenkins, LL.D., the friend of Archbishop Sheldon, and who may well be styled the Second Founder of the college. Sir Leoline resigned his headship in 1673, and was afterwards frequently elected to represent the University in parliament. He died in 1685, aged 62, at his house in Hammersmith; his body was removed to Oxford, and buried with great pomp in the area of the chapel of the college, near the steps leading to the altar. He bequeathed to the society lands and property, since become of very considerable value. b History informs us that this great Divine read the whole of the Greek and Latin Fathers in chronological order, and understood at least twejve languages. 118 JESUS COLLEGE — HALL, CHAPEL. We enter this College through a handsome rustic Gateway; it has two courts; the first, 100 feet by 90, has the Hall facing the entrance ; the Chapel on the right ; the Library on the left ; and the remainder of the square consists of the apartments of the Members. The Hall, completed by Sir Eubule Thelwall, " who left nothing undone which might conduce to the good of the College," is a fine apartment : the ceiling is decorated with stucco, the screen elaborately carved ; and there is a fine bay win dow, which forms a principal ornament to the inner quadrangle. The room contains the follow ing portraits : — Queen Elizabeth ; Charles I., by Vandyck ; Charles n, ; Sir Leoline Jenkins ; Sir Eubule Thelwall, when a child, with his mother ; Drs. Wynne and Pardo ; Thomas, bishop of Worcester ; Westphaling, bishop of Hereford ; Mr. Edward Merrick ; and Nash, the celebrated architect, by Sir Thomas Lawrence. In the Chapel are some interesting archi tectural features; it is handsomely fitted up throughout with oak wainscoting, contemporane ous with the building itself, the consecration of which took place on the 28th of May, 1621 : this is divided into three compartments by a screen and arch, leading into a kind of Chancel, forming a counterpart to the Ante-Chapel.a Over the Altar is a copy of Guido's beautiful picture in the convent of the Capucini at Rome, of "St. 3 This arrangement arose from an enlargement of the east end, about fifteen years after the consecration of the former part, which was found too small for the society. JESUS COLLEGE LIBRARY, BURSARY. 119 Michael overcoming the Devil" : it is nearly 10 feet by 7, and was presented by Viscount Bulkeley, a member of this College, in 1 773. There are also many handsome monuments, especially those to the memory of Drs. William Jones, Jonathan Edwards, and Mansell; Sir Leoline Jenkins, Sir Eubule Thelwall, former Principals ; and Dr. Henry Maurice, Margaret Professor of Divinity. The Library, erected in 1677, at the expense of Sir Leoline Jenkins, contains a large collection of books and manuscripts ; amongst the latter are those of Lord Herbert of Cherbury; and some very curious romances and poems, in Welsh, known as the Llyfr Coch, or Red Book. The tracery of the south window has a very pictu resque effect, as seen from the Market-lane. The inner Quadrangle is 90 feet by 70, and contains the Bursary, Fellows' Common-Room, &c. The College clock, with handsome dial- plates facing both quadrangles, was the gift of the present Principal, Dr. Foulkes. In the Bursary is a silver-gilt bowl and ladle, the gift of Sir William Watkin Wynn ; the bowl will contain ten gallons, and the ladle half a pint ; there is likewise a very curious early Portrait of Queen Elizabeth. The stranger will be shewn the Statutes of the College, exquisitely written on vellum, and curiously embellished by the Rev. Mr. Perry, of Shipston-on-Stour, formerly a Fellow of this College. Turning to the left on leaving Jesus College, we again reach Broad Street ; crossing it, we arrive at the handsome gateway of 120 TRINITY COLLEGE. TRINITY COLLEGE.3 Founded in 1554, by Sir Thomas Pope, of Tittenhanger, Hertfordshire, Privy Councillor to Henry VIIL, and Queen Mary.b Foundation — A President, 12 Fellows, and 12 Scholars. There are also other Members not on the foundation. The number of Members on the College books is nearly 300. Visitor — The Bishop of Winchester, %* Porter's Lodge — In the gateway on the left. Places worthy of inspection — The Chapel, Hall, and Gardens. A very long Catalogue of Renowned Characters may be mentioned in connection with this College; among them were — Seth Ward ; Archbishop Sheldon ; Derham, the author of " Phy- sico-, Astro-, and Christo-Theology ;" who commenced his career in 1675 as a servitor, and in 1730, at the age of 73, a The establishment of this society commenced a new era in the academical history of this University. It was the first college founded after the dissolution of monasteries ; and Sir Thomas Pope, whose example was soon followed by his particular friend Sir Thomas White in the foundation of St. John's College, was the first layman who bestowed on the University a portion of the wealth which came into general circulation upon that event. The present college was founded on the ruins of Durham College, which belonged to the Bene dictines, and was finally suppressed. Sir Thomas Pope purchased the site in 1554, founded thereon the present college, and dedicated it to the " Holy and Undivided Trinity." Many of the old buildings still remain. b So celebrated a character as the founder of this college, requires somewhat more than a passing mention. He was born at Deddington in 1508, and educated at Banbury and Eton : he afterwards studied at Gray's Inn, and soon became well versed in all the intricacies of the law ; at the age of 25, he became Clerk of the Briefs of the Star-Chamber, and Clerk of the Crown in Chancery. He was then promoted to offices of the highest trust and importance ; was knighted ; and appointed a member of the King's privy council. In 1536, he was constituted by Henry VIII. treasurer of the Court of Augmentations, treasurer of the Jewel-House in the Tower of London, and Warden of the Mint. He died at Clerkenwell,- January 28, 1559. Among the particulars recorded of him we may mention his unwearied attention to the concerns of his TRINITY COLLEGE. 121 received from the University the distinguished honour of D.D., by diploma; Selden; Gellibrand, the mathemati cian; Chilling-worth; the poets, Denham, Wharton, Bowles, and others ; the celebrated Earl of Chatham ; Lord North, prime minister, afterwards Earl of Guilford, and many other distinguished noblemen; Ludlow, Ireton, and other republican chiefs ; John Bampton, founder of lecture- sermons ; Henry Birkhead, D.C.L., founder of the Professor ship of Poetry, afterwards of All Souls' ;3 Dr. Addington, the physician ; the celebrated antiquarian, Andrew Cotee Ducarrel, LL.D., afterwards of St. John's College. To these may justly be added the name of Dr. Ingram, the present President, and the accomplished author of " The Memorials of Oxford." This College has before it a spacious grass-plot separated from the street by lofty iron palisades, with handsome ornamental gates in the centre. The Tower over the entrance to the College is square, and enriched with pilasters and balus- college, and his great kindness to the younger students, for whom, during his lifetime, he paid all the public expanses of degrees, determinations, and regencies. He also appointed lecturers in Logic and Philosophy, and in imitation of Fox and Wolsey, particularly recommended the cultivation of the Greek and Latin languages, which had fallen into disuse ; and required of students, before proceeding to their master's degree, an examination, by the President, in at least one volume of Greek Logic or Greek Philosophy. This plan of study was inspected by and met with the approbation of the princess Elizabeth, afterwards Queen, who was at that time placed by Queen Mary under the care and custody of Sir Thomas Pope, at Hatfield House, where she remained till she succeeded to the throne of her sister in 1558. 3 Dr. Birkhead was a barrister of the Inner Temple. By his will, the professor is elected by Convocation, for five years, but at the expiration of that period he may be re-elected for five years more. The first professor was Joseph Trapp, M.A., fellow of Wadham College, and D.D. by diploma, elected in 1708. He has been succeeded by some of the most eminent names in the University, including those of several prelates, and that of the present professor. M 122 TRINITY COLLEGE — CHAPEL. trades ; on the top of it are figures representing Divinity, Physic, Geometry, and Astronomy. The first Quadrangle is formed by the Presi dent's Lodgings and Library on the east ; on the west, the Hall and Common-Room f on the north are the apartments of the Members ; and the Chapel on the south. The second Court, is spacious and elegant ; it was designed by Sir Christopher Wren, and opens to the Gardens on the east. The Chapel exhibits some chaste specimens of Grecian architecture. The original plan by Dean Aldrich was materially improved by Sir C. Wren. The lofty Screen and Altar-piece are of cedar, the carving of them, by Grinlin Gibbons, being unrivalled : on the top of the Screen are well- executed figures of the four Evangelists. The ceiling, adorned with stucco in alto relievo, has in the centre a bright picture of — The Ascension, painted by Peter Berchet, a French artist. In an alcove to the left of the Altar is the elegant alabaster tomb of the founder and his lady, with full-length effigies, in the armour and cos tume of the times ; at the head of Sir Thomas is a helmet, and a griffin at his feet, the whole being a beautiful specimen of monumental sculp- 3 Adjoining the common-room is a very elegantly-formed gable window, of an early date ; it is filled with rich painted glass, and in the upper compartments has the following inscription ; — " Will'mus Eechester, huius custos collegh. Dominus Vobisoum." — (William Ebchester, President of this college. The Lord be with you.) Ebchester was president in 1446, and died in 1456, having been elected Prior of Durham, where he was buried. Most of the buildings in this part of the college remain in the same condition as when first erected. TRINITY COLLEGE HALL, LIBRARY. 123 ture.1 The floor of the Chapel is composed of black and white marble.b The Hall, with a statue of the founder over the entrance, is a spacious and well-proportioned room, decorated with the following portraits : Sir W. Pope, the first Earl of Downe, and nephew of the founder ; the Rev. W. Derham ; Lady Elizabeth Paulet, third wife of the founder ; Archbishop Sheldon ; Warton, the poet ; Dr. Bathurst, by Sonman ; the Founder ; Dr. Kettle, formerly President ; the Earl of Chatham ; Lord North ; Mr. Rands ; and Dr. Carne. Over the fire-place is an ancient painting of the Arms of Queen Mary and King Philip, by Catton, dated 1554. The Library is the oldest part of this College. The painted glass in the windows is very ancient and curious ; particularly the figures of the Evangelists, of Edward III. and Philippa, St. Cuthbert, and St. Thomas a, Beckett, who is represented with a fragment of Fitz-Urse's dagger in his forehead. Over the entrance is a portrait of the Founder, and busts of Dr. Lee, the late president, and B. Langton, Esq. This Library contains many ancient and valuable works, and a curious manuscript of Euclid, supposed to be 600 years old, in a good state of preservation, which 3 Sir Thomas Pope was interred in the parish church of St. Stephen, Walbrook, London, in 1559 ; and in 1567 his remains, with those of Dame Margaret, his second wife, were removed to this chapel. b The first person interred in the chapel was Josias How, at the age of ninety ; who, being bursar when the parlia mentary visitors demanded the surrender of college papers, very properly secured them by taking them into the country with him till after the Restoration. m2 124 TRINITY COLLEGE — GARDENS. was translated from the Arabic into Latin, before the original Greek was discovered.3 The Gardens6 of the College are large and well laid out, containing about four acres of ground. The northern division consists of gravel-walks and glass-plots, adorned with evergreens. At the lower end of the centre walk is a beautiful iron gate, supported by two very elegant piers. This gate affords those who pass to and from " The Parks" an agreeable prospect of the Gar dens and College. The southern division is very tastefully planted with ornamental shrubs and flowers.0 Adjoining this College is - Edmund Hutchins, nephew of the Founder, (who himself began the present collection of books, by sending numerous manuscripts and folio volumes,) and lord of the manor of Dumbleton, soon followed the example of Sir Thomas Pope. The following memorial of him, probably from his own hand when scholar of the college, is cut on a square tablet of free stone, inserted in the outer wall of the present bursary : — "IHS : HAVE: Me. O. E. HVTCHINS. A.D. 1558." b The view of the president's lodgings from the gardens, and the old yew trees, excite interesting reminiscences of ancient Oxford. In June 1847, during the Meeting of the British Association at Oxford, the Horticultural Society received permission to hold an extra Show in these gardens : on this occasion the Society had the honour of a visit from His Royal Highness Prince Albert, accompanied by Prince Edward of Saxe Weimar, and several of the principal members of the British Association, and of the University, who proceeded thither, after having partaken of a dejeuner in Exeter College gardens, and visited the various Sections of the Association. The Prince graciously accepted some of the prize fruits in the gardens, and expressed his approbation of the elegant and tasteful display made by (henceforth) the Royal Horticultural Society. c There is a very exquisitely- wrought chalice still preserved in this college, given by the founder, but said to have originally belonged to St. Alban's Abbey. BALLIOL COLLEGE — CHAPEL. 125 BALLIOL COLLEGE. Founded by John Balliol, of Barnard Castle, Durham, (father of John Balliol, King of Scotland,) and his wife Dervorgilla, between 1263 and 1268.3 Foundation — A Master, 12 Fellows, 14 Scholars and Exhibi tioners. There are also other Members not on the foundation. The number of Members on the College books is 318. Visitor — The Archbishop of Canterbury, *** Porter's Lodge — In the gateway on the left. Places worthy of inspection — The Chapel and Hall. Among the Renowned Characters who were Members of this College, were — The Martyr Wicliffe, master in 1361 ; Tun- stall, bishop of Durham ; Humphrey, duke of Gloucester ; Ross of Warwick ; Adam Smith ; Parsons, the Jesuit ; John Evelyn ; Kyrle, the " Man of Ross ;" and Dr. Savage, master of the College, and author of " Balliofergus," printed at Oxford, in 1668. The entrance to Balliol College is through a handsome Gothic tower-gateway. The College consists chiefly of one Quadrangle, having the Chapel and Library on the north, the Hall on the west, and apartments for the students on the south and east. The Chapel, built in 1529, possesses a few ornamental monuments. The windows contain very ancient painted glass, by Van Linge; the east window represents — The Passion, Resurrection, and Ascension of Christ. On the south is a win- 3 On the death of her husband, the Lady Dervorgilla deter mined to give effect to the wishes expressed by him on his death-bed. Having domiciliated the scholars, (to whom ber late husband had granted annual exhibitions out of his personal estate,) she gave them statutes under her own seal. These statutes, beautifully written on a piece of parchment of the size of a small quarto, and bearing a very perfect impres sion of the seal, are still, in- the possession of the college. M 3 126 BALLIOL COLLEGE HALL, LIBRARY. dow displaying — The Story of Hezekiah's Sickness and Recovery ; and in a window on the north is — Philip Baptizing the Eunuch : the remaining windows contain portraits of Saints, &c. A brass eagle, the gift of Dr. Wilson, in the time of Charles IL, is used as a reading-desk. The Hall is a large and lofty room, orna mented with the following portraits, commencing left of the entrance : — Henry, second earl of Bathurst, Lord High Chancellor of England ; Dr. Prosser, archdeacon of Durham, formerly a fellow ; Dr. Parsons, bishop of Peterborough, the late master ; Dr. Baillie, formerly a member ; Dr. Barrington, bishop of Durham ; Douglas, bishop of Salisbury; Wicliffe, the Reformer ; and, over the screen, Dr. Dolben, arch bishop of York. The Library was completed in 1477 ; it con tains an extensive collection of books and manu scripts, and some good painted windows.2 On the right of the entrance to this College, is the Master's residence. The site of the houses on the opposite side of the street was formerly the city ditch : here, the Martyrs — Cranmer, Ridley, and Latimer — passed through their fiery ordeal, in 1555." 3 At the northern extremity of the college is a building known by the name of Caesar's lodgings, or, more briefly, Cjesar ; having been erected on the site of a tenement belong ing to Sir Julius Caesar, or to his brother Henry, who studied here. A building, pulled down about forty years since, stood directly opposite, and hence obtained the appellation of Pompey. b A transverse stone is placed opposite the spot in the cross- way leading from the Master's house. A bastion of the city wall still remains nearly perfect at the rear of the houses opposite Balliol, inhabited by Mr. Dudley and others. ST. MARY MAGDALENE CHURCH. 127 Taking the first turning on the right of Balliol College, we reach ST. MARY MAGDALENE CHURCH, Said to have been originally built before the Norman Conquest, with the permission of St. Frideswide, to whose monastery it was doubtless an appendage. It exhibits some of the best speci mens of sculpture and masonry in Oxford. There is an ancient Font which is remarkably elegant ; and in the Tower is a beautiful little figure of the patroness, St. Mary Magdalene, represented in a niche on the west side, over the lower window : the Window itself, and the richly-carved string-course beneath, are also extremely ancient. The North ern Aisle, formerly used as a chapel by the Balliol students, (for which purpose it was fitted up by the Lady Dervorgilla,) has been recently entirely rebuilt as a part of the Memorial to the Martyrs of the Reformation, and is called the Martyrs' Aisle; at the same time, (1840,) the lofty arch of the tower, facing the nave, was partly thrown open and a handsome altar-screen added, together with two richly-painted windows by Wailes, of New- castle-on-Tyne.a A few feet from the northern extremity of the burial-ground has been erected the 3 Nearly opposite this church is George-street, in which is situated the Independent Chapel. This thoroughfare leads to the spacious wharfs of the Oxford Canal Company, the Castle, St. Thomas's Church, &c, and forms an outlet to the western suburb of Oxford. 128 MARTYRS' MEMORIAL. MARTYRS' MEMORIAL. Too late for the discharge of an urgent debt of gratitude, but not too late for the proof, that this debt was not forgotten, a monumental honour has at length been paid to the lives and deaths of the martyred prelates, Archbishop Cranmer, and the Bishops Ridley and Latimer. After many fruitless attempts to commemorate their acts and sufferings, in the defence of the true faith and Church of Christ, by the erection of a memorial Church near the place of their martyrdom, it was finally resolved, May 5th, 1840, that the intended Memorial should consist of two parts, — of an Aisle (to be called the Martyrs' Aisle) which was to be attached to the north side of St. Mary Magdalene Church, and an honorary Monument at the north end of its church yard, in the style, or manner of the Memorial Cross, near Waltham Abbey, (one of those erected by Edward I., in honour of his Queen Eleanor,) but which, in height, form, and proportions, was to be an improvement upon the original. Architects were invited to send designs, and builders to contract for the works proposed. Messrs. Scott and Moffatt, 20, Spring Gardens, were the successful competitors. Mr. Kirk, of Sleaford, Lincolnshire, surveyor of the bridges and buildings of that county, obtained the contract. Henry Weeks, Esq., 30, Lower Belgrave Place, (for a long time first sculptor and superintendent of Sir Francis Chantrey's studio,) carved, with characteristic truth, the figures of the martyred Prelates. The stone selected by Professor Buckland, for the Memorial Cross, was a finely crystallized magnesian limestone, from Mr. Lind- ley's Quarry, at Mansfield-Woodhouse, Notts, of the same sort with (but much superior) to that chosen by the Com missioners for the New Houses of Parliament. The first stone of the Cross was laid May 19th, 1841 ; a day chosen because it was in May, 1541, that Archbishop Cranmer obtained his last great triumph over Henry the Eighth's reluct ance to distribute the Bible in English, through the churches of the land, the Bibles of that date being distinguished from those of former editions by a more emphatic avowal in the title- page, — that they were auctorized and apoynted to be read by MARTYRS' MEMORIAL. 129 royal authority.3 It was an important date in the history of the circulation of the Scriptures ; and May, 1841, was the re turn of its tiicentenary period. DIMENSIONS OF THE MEMORIAL CROSS. Feet. Inches. Height of the platform of steps 6 4 From the top step to the top of the trefoiled pierced parapet of the first stage or story 21 7 From the top of this pierced parapet to the top of the pierced parapet of the second story 20 0 From the top of the second pierced parapet to the top of the pointed and crocketted parapet of the third story . . . . 13 2 From the top of the crocketted parapet to the top of the final Cross 11 11 73 0 The Eleanor Cross, at Waltham Abbey, which was proposed to the architects, as the form they were to improve upon, is no more than 45 feet. The Inscription on the north face of the basement story : TO THE GLORY OF GO0, AND IN GRATEFUL COMMEMORATION OF HIS SERVANTS, THOMAS CRANMER, NICHOLAS RIDLEY, HUGH LATIMER, PRELATES OF THE CHURCH OF ENGLAND, WHO, NEAR THIS SPOT, YIELDED THEIR BODIES TO BE BURNED; .BEARING WITNESS TO THE SACRED TRUTHS WHICH THEY HAD AFFIRMED AND MAINTAINED AGAINST THE ERRORS OF THE CHURCH OF ROME; AND REJOICING THAT TO THEM IT WAS GIVEN NOT ONLY TO BELIEVE IN CHRIST, BUT ALSO TO SUFFER FOR HIS SAKE. THIS MONUMENT WAS ERECTED BY PUBLIC SUBSCRIPTION IN THE YEAR OF OUR LORD GOD, MDCCCXLI. 3 The title itself is too interesting to be omitted. " The " Byble in Englyshe of the largest and greatest Volume aucto- " rysed and apoynted by the commaundemente of oure moost " redoubted Prynce and Sovereigne Lorde, Eynge Henrye the " VEIL supreme Head of the Churche andRealme of Englande, " to be frequented and used in every Churche within this his " sayd Realme, accordinge to the Tenour of his former Injune- " tions given in that behalfe — oversene and perused at the " commaundmente of the Kynges Hyghnes, by the ryghte 130 martyrs' memorial. The geometrical principle which has governed the structure throughout is the hexagon. Some of the Eleanor Crosses were raised on a triangular, and some on an octangular base, and, consequently, the elevation of their sides, dressings, and general arrangements, were regulated respectively by these their first or elementary figures, that is, by the triangle, as in the instance of the Cross at Geddington, and the octagon, as in that of Northampton. The market crosses, too, followed the same rule— their niches, buttresses and canopies, shafts and sides, were all laid out according to the forms of their bases. The celebrated Coventry and Abingdon Crosses were close imita tions of the hexagonal Eleanor Crosses in this, as in all other respects. Mr. Derick, the architect, has recently erected a beautiful Memorial Cross at Ham, in Derbyshire, in honour of the Christian virtues of Mary, the wife of Jesse Watts Russel, Esq., which is based and elevated upon the hexa gonal principle ; whereas, that built in 1833, at the Cholera Cemetery, at Sheffield, by Mr. Hadfield, follows, through its whole height of 65 feet, the triangular principle of its platform. The same adherence to the elementary form of the base, however rich, and various, and complicated the de corations of the sides, is observable in the ancient Crosses at Schone-Brunen, near Nuremburg, and at Godesberg, near Bonn: as also in that magnificent Memorial Cross recently erected near Berlin, in honour of the Prussian heroes who fell at Waterloo, and in the preceding victories over the armies of Buonaparte — the geometrical principle which has governed the construction of this noble monument is the octagon. " reverende fathers in God, Cuthbert, Bysshop of Duresme, " and Nicholas, Bysshop of Rochester — Printed by Edwarde " Whitchurch, 1541."— In the colophon at the end, "TheEnde " of the newe Testament and of the whole Byble — Fynysshed " in Maye, Anno. M.CCCCC.XLI. a Dnb factu est istu." The date, Maye M.CCCCC.XLI., was thought to be too im portant in the history of the circulation of the Scriptures in English to be passed over without notice. It is inscribed by the sculptor on the cover of the Bible, resting on the fore-arm of Archbishop Cranmer's statue. So too on the leaf of an open Bible, carved on that sunk panel of the basement story of the monument which fronts the church, there is inscribed, and still with reference to this edition, " The Bible in Englyshe auctorized May, 1541." martyrs' memorial. 131 With respect to the Martyrs' Memorial Cross, as the hexa gon was chosen for its elementary form or principle, so its rich decorations of niches, canopies, pediments, buttresses, pin nacles, are all arranged hexagonally — the shaft through its whole height retains a six-sided character — whilst the graceful proportions of its three stages or stories, the solidity without heaviness, which characterizes the first, the lightness without tenuity observable in the two upper stories; the beautiful elevation and gradual convergency of the pointed parts of the monument, the skilful compression of its various dress ings and decorations, so as to make them all fall in with the complexus of a pyramid, which may be supposed to be erected on the same base, and carried to the height of the cross itself; and lastly, the strict adherence of every part to the proper dates and contemporaneous authorities, render this monumental structure worthy of the occasion of its erec tion, and the attention of strangers. It was intended (to use the words of the circular, Nov. 15, 1838,) to be a structure " in " which architecture and sculpture should combine to record " the fact of these holy Martyrs having preferred the endurance " of a most cruel death to a sacrifice of principle ;" — and by this monument (when coupled with the Memorial Aisle) the faith and fortitude of these revered Prelates have been amply, as well as affectionately commemorated. It was part of the resolution passed at the first General Meeting of Subscribers, January 31st, 1839, that the edifice then contemplated (a Memorial Church) should be made commemorative of the Martyrs, " chiefly by external "decora tions :" — the resolution has been observed in the decorations of the Martyrs' Aisle, as well as the Memorial Cross, — in the former, by introducing into the faces of the sunk panels of the buttresses the armorial bearings of Cranmer, Ridley, and Latimer, with those of their respective sees, and into the cor nice (upon bosses of foliage) the initials of their names, as also emblematic devices — such as the hand of Cranmer, in the flames, a paten and chalice, with the wheat-ear and vine- branch, an open bible, a fire-brand and crozier saltier ; and, in like manner, the palm of triumph crossed by the fire-brand of torture. The commemorative devices on the monument are (over Archbishop Cranmer's statue) the pelican, allusive to the saying of Henry VIII. when he changed the Archbishop's Arms from three cranes to three pelieans, " that he should be 132 martyrs' memorial. ready, as the pelican, to shed his blood for his young ones." — (Strype's Cranmer, book I. chap. 28.) The panel below exhi bits his arms coupled with those of the see of Canterbury. In the front of the canopy, over Bishop Ridley's statue, there are two fire-brands saltier with a mitre over them, and on the panel below, his family arms, with those of the see of London ; in like manner, in the front of the canopy, over Bishop Latimer, there are two palm-branches saltier, overlaying a fire-brand, the whole surmounted by a crown of glory : his family arms, with those of the see of Worcester, being laid on the panel below. The three intermediate sides of the hexagon are charged respectively with the following expressive symbols on shields : — the ciown of thorns and crown of glory — the sacramental cup and open bible, (two of the greatest blessings obtained for the Laity by the triumphs of the martyred Bishops ;) two crossed palm-branches and two crossed fire- • brands ; these devices in saltier being each on separate shields. This account will be concluded by accommodating the words of Strype to the motives of those who have contributed to these memorial works, the Martyrs' Aisle and Monumental Cross. " Their great inducement was to be grateful to the memory of " those holy Prelates, who have so well deserved of our church " — to whom under God she oweth that excellent constitution " and reformed state in which she is, — which cost them so dear, " and so many pensive thoughts — so many hours' study, so many " consultations, and debates with learned men, so many speeches, " arguings, and stragglings in Parliament and in Convocation, " before the King, the Clergy, and the People, — so much danger " and trouble, and envy, and reproach, and at last their dearest " blood. Posterity would be highly injurious to such persons " as these, if they were not to be recorded with due respect " and honour. — (See Preface to Strype's Memorials of Arch- " bishop Cranmer.) 'Surely it is agreeable to God's will that " this piece of gratitude should be shewn to men of singular " virtue, deceased, to keep their names and good deeds upon " record, for posterity to know, and to thank God for. Their " bodies were not carried to the grave in state, nor buried, as " many of their predecessors were, in their own Cathedral " Churches, nor inclosed in monuments of marble or touch- " stone, — nor had they any inscriptions to set forth their " praises to posterity. No, — their martyrdoms are theirmonu- " ments, and their names will outlast epitaph or shrine." (Strype's Memorials of Cranmer, book III., chap. 21 J st. john's college. 133 A short distance to the right of the Memorial, in St. Giles's Street, is ST. JOHN'S COLLEGE.3 Founded in 1555, by Sir Thomas White, Alderman and Merchant Tailor, of London.b Foundation — A President, 50 Fellows and Scholars, a Chaplain, an Organist, 6 Singing Men, 6 Choristers, and a Sexton. There are also other Members not on the foundation. The number of Members on the College books is 311. Visitor — The Bishop of Winchester. *** Porter's Lodge — Right of the entrance gateway. Places worthy of inspection — The Chapel, Hall, Library, and Gardens. 3 This establishment was erected on the site of the pre existing foundation of Archbishop Chichele, made over by him in 1436 to the Cistercian monks under St. Bernard, and hence styled St. Bernard's College. This being » monastic body was dissolved by Henry "VTII., and consigned to his new foundation of Christ Church, of which society it was purchased May 25, 1555, by Sir T. White ; who, four days after, obtained a licence to found the present college, dedicated to St. John the Baptist. In June of the same year, the first president and scholars took possession of the buildings ; but some time after, the founder made fresh additions to his endowment, and issued a new charter. Much of the present building, particularly of the front and genuine Gothic tower- gateway, belong to Chichele' s foundation : the statue of St. Bernard still stands in its original niche. b Sir Thomas White, though born at Reading, was an eminent citizen of London. He was appointed sheriff of London in 1546, mayor in 1553, and was knighted by Queen Mary for his services in preserving the peace of the city, during Sir T. Wyat's rebellion. He lived to see his college in complete operation for ten years : he died in Oxford at an advanced age, in 1566, and was buried in the college chapel. The fellows of this Society are principally elected from the Merchant Tailors' School, London. ft N 134 st. John's college — hall. Among the Renowned Characters who were Members of this College, were — Archbishop Laud, sometime president; Dr. Juxon, archbishop of Canterbury ; Dean Tucker ; Wheat- ley, author of " A Rational Illustration of the Book of Common Prayer" ; Shirley, the poet ; Briggs, the mathe matician ; Sherard and Dillenius, the renowned botanists ; Lord Chancellor Northington ; Dr. Vicesimus Knox ; Chief Justice Sir James Eyre ; and many others. Over the entrance is a statue of St. Bernard, and the arms of the Founder. The buildings of this College chiefly comprise two large Quad rangles ; the north side of the first is occupied by the Hall, Chapel, Common-Rooms, and part of the President's House, which stands in the north east angle ; the remainder of the square is devoted to Apartments for the Members. The Hall," (undoubtedly the refectory of the monks of St. Bernard,) is a handsome, well-pro portioned room, with a beautiful arched roof, a screen of Portland stone, and a grand variegated marble chimney-piece, containing a curious pic ture of St. John the Baptist, in scagliola, by Lambert Gorius. This room contains also the following portraits : — 3 On Thursday, June 12, 1834, the Society entertained the Duke of Wellington (on the occasion of his public installation as Chancellor of the University,) and a numerous company, in the Hall ; the guests included the Duke of Cumberland, Earl Eldon, (high steward,) with many other noble visitors who accompanied his Grace, together with a select party of the gallant Chancellor's particular friends ; the two Members of Parliament for the University, the Vice-Chancellor, Proctors, Heads of Houses, Sir C. Wetherell, (counsel to the Uni versity,) &c. The gallery over the entrance was tastefully decorated with flowers and evergreens, and occupied by ladies of the highest rank. st. John's college — chapel. 135 The Founder, (full length) ;3 Archbishops Laud and Juxon ; Bishop Buckeridge ; Dr. Rawlinson ; Sir Walter Raleigh ; Sir W. Paddy (full length) ; Bishop Mew, or Meux ; Hudson, the voyageT ; Dr. Holmes and his wife ; Sir J. Nicholl, D.C.L., F.R.S., formerly a Fellow; Dr. Scott, the antiquary; Sir James Eyre; Dr. Woodroffe; Edward Waple, B.D. ; Dr. Gibbons ; John Case, D.M. ; and over the entrance, a full-length and gorgeous portrait of George III. in his elegant coronation robes, presented to the Society by the Dowager Countess of Lichfield, whose husband had formerly been a member of the College, and Chancellor of the University. The Chapel adjoins the Hall: it has lately been repaired, at a very considerable expense, under the direction of Mr. Blore, and reflects great credit upon that eminent architect. The old circular-headed windows have been replaced by others more in accordance with the style of the building : the tracery of all, particularly of the east window, is very elegant. An open roof of carved oak has been substituted for the plas tered ceiling; and the Grecian screen, with its Corinthian columns, has been replaced by one of carved oak, in the Gothic style; this is thrown back so as to give greater accommodation. The paneling at the back of the stalls, and at the east end, and the canopy over the altar, are of Caen stone, well carved, as are also the corbels which support the roof. The Organ has been removed to the Inner, or Mortuary Chapel, which is 3 This portrait was given to the college by T. Rowney, Esq., sheriff of the county in 1692, and sometime a gentleman- commoner here ; that of Laud was the gift of Baynbrigg Buckeridge, Esq., A.B., 1695, of the founder's kindred; and . that of Juxon by William Rawlinson, Esq., of Oxford, a gentleman-commoner. ^ N 2 136 st. John's college — library. now thrown open by means of two arches. In this Chapel are several Monuments to the me mory of former Presidents, whose remains are here deposited;3 amongst them we would call attention to one to the memory of Dr. Baylie,b as being well worthy of notice. The heart of Dr. Rawlinson, a considerable benefactor to the College, and to the University, is deposited in a black marble urn, placed over the northern door, with the inscription "ubi thesaurus ibi cor." — ( Wherever the treasure is, there should be the heart/) His body is interred in St. Giles's Church. The remains of Archbishop Laud are deposited in a stone coffin, at the east end of the Chapel, close to the pew set apart for the President's family :c and near the Altar repose those of Archbishop Juxon and the Founder. From the first quadrangle we pass by a vaulted passage, with an elegant stone ceiling of fan- tracery, into the inner quadrangle, of which the south and east sides are occupied by The Library, comprising two rooms, both above 100 feet long, containing an excellent collection of books and manuscripts; amongst the former may be mentioned a copy of Caxton's Chaucer, nearly, if not quite, the only perfect ' Many ancient brasses have been carefully placed in the ante-chapel : they were found not many years since in the president's lodgings, and were restored to the chapel, being ascertained to relate to persons actually buried there. b Dr. Baylie, president from 1631 to 1648, when he was expelled to make room for F. Cheynell and Thankful or Gracious Owen ; he was, however, restored in 1660. c Service is performed in the chapel at a quarter past eight in the morning, and at five in the evening, except on Sundays, when the evening service is at a quarter before seven. Drawn &£he~ insJ'&ff.S- £c?r:sr. Zend0n:Jiib * Ju7ie j, ids. AyS/iertp::-^, JTrefj.r. . st. John's college — Inner library. 137 one in existence; also busts of Charles I. and Archbishop Laud; portraits of Charles I. and his Queen; George III. (said to be one of the best likenesses of him ever taken,) and Queen Charlotte ; Archbishop Laud, and Sir W. Paddy ; a curious picture of Charles I., with the whole Book of Psalms written in the lines of the face and on the hair of the head ; also a picture of St. John the Baptist, by Guercino ; and paintings of Christ, the Virgin Mary, and the Twelve Apostles, on copper; also a piece of tapestry, representing — Our Saviour with the two Disciples at Emmaus, copied from a painting of Titian : this was formerly the Altar-piece in the Chapel. The Inner Library has lately been thoroughly re paired, and is now a very handsome apartment, though the position of the book-cases gives it rather a one-sided appearance. It is intended to repair the outer room in a similar manner.3 On the eastern and western sides of this Quad' rangle, the architect has very successfully intro duced two light colonnades or piazzas, in the Grecian style ; over each column are busts repre senting — the Christian and Cardinal Virtues. In the centre of each piazza is a handsome gateway, of the Doric order, surmounted by Ionic pillars 3 The crozier, or pastoral crook of Archbishop Laud, with the staff, or walking-stick which supported his steps in his ascent to the scaffold, together with a carved eagle by Snetzler, (presented by Mr. Estcourt, in 1770,) and other curiosities, have been deposited here. In this library, Laud, then Chancellor of the University, entertained at dinner the King, Queen, Prince Rupert, and the whole court, comprising all the beauty and gallantry of the kingdom. w 3 138 st. john's college — gardens. with semicircular pediments, having over them niches containing bronze statues of Charles I. and his queen, Henrietta Maria, cast by Fanelli of Florence, at a cost of £400. The Quadrangle was built at the expense of Archbishop Laud, from a design by Inigo Jones, who has succeeded in making the garden-front one of the most pic turesque objects in the University.3 From this Quadrangle we are conducted by a second very elegant passage, with fan-tracery ceiling, into The Gardens, or Groves, as they are fre quently called. These are the most extensive and tastefully-arranged grounds in the University, and abound with fine horse-chesnut and other majestic trees. They occupy an area of about five acres, and were, about a century since, as an old writer observes, " the general rendezvous of gentlemen and ladies, every Sunday evening in summer, where the whole University together almost, as well as the better sort of townsmen and ladies, were wont to make their promenade." From these Gardens some fine views may be ob tained of Wadham College and other University buildings. On leaving St. John's College,b we proceed to the northern extremity of St. Giles's Street, where, * Like many other works of this great architect, the contrast here is almost too great ; the north and' south sides being very plain, whilst the east and west are so richly ornamented. b Should the time of the visitor be limited, the tour de scribed in the five following pages may be avoided by at once crossing the street to Worcester College (see p. 144,) at the end of Beaumont Street, returning to the University Gal leries and Sir. R. Taylor's Institute, (see p. 150,) and from thence continuing the route as there described. st. Giles's church. 139 between two roads, (the one on the right leading to Banbury, Bicester, &c, — that on the left, to Woodstock, Blenheim, &c.,) is ST. GILES'S CHURCH. Like all other edifices of a sacred character in Oxford, this is a very ancient structure, — the greater part of it being of the thirteenth century, in the early English style. The living is a vicar age, in the patronage of St. John's College. The north aisle was originally a distinct chapel, with a separate entrance from the church-yard. Two of the three windows in the eastern division are richly ornamented, and much resemble those in the chapter-house at Christ Church. At the western extremity of the church are deposited the remains of Dr. Rawlinson, founder of the Anglo-Saxon professorship. Near here is the Font, of an elegant and uncommon design : it rests on a large central column, with slender columns at each angle, and is ornamented on every side by broad mouldings, divided by rows of double zigzag, or chevron work. The commu nion rails are elaborately carved from designs by Inigo Jones. The Tower is evidently the oldest part of the present fabric, and is built of rubble. The front of this church is remarkably elegant in design and proportion. The Porch is of the early pointed style, with well-executed doorways." , 3 In the churchyard, nearly opposite to this porch, is, a venerable table-tomb of freestone, much decayed, to the memory of some person unknown ; the sides are ornamente,d with bold quatrefoils, and rosettes in the centre. 140 RADCLIFFE INFIRMARY — OBSERVATORY. On leaving St. Giles's church, we proceed a short distance on the Woodstock road, where, on the left, is the RADCLIFFE INFIRMARY. This useful Institution takes its name from the munificent Dr. Radcliffe, (already frequently mentioned in these pages,) at whose sole expense it was erected. The ground on which it stands (including, with the garden, about five acres) was the gift of Thomas Rowney, Esq., one of the city representatives in parliament; he was a benefactor in other respects, and one of the wards is called after his name. The edifice, well worthy of its purposes, was built from a design by Mr. Leadbeater, of London, and was opened for the reception of patients, Oct. 18, 1770. It contains three stories, divided into numerous wards and apartments, and measures 150 by 71 feet.a Separated from the Infirmary by a wall, are the grounds of the RADCLIFFE OBSERVATORY, Erected from funds derived from the same ge nerous benefactor as the Infirmary, on ground, (including an extent of about ten acres,) given by George, Duke of Marlborough. The first stone 3 A poor-box is attached to this admirably-conducted insti tute which is supported by voluntary contributions ; and the visitor who is desirous of making a return for the gratifica tion he has experienced during his tour in Oxford, cannot do better than present a small offering. An annual subscrip tion of £3 3s. entitles a person to the office of governor. RADCLIFFE OBSERVATORY. 141 was laid in 1772, but the whole was not completed till 1795, in consequence of the death of Mr. Keene, the first architect, who was succeeded by Mr. James Wyatt. The dwelling-house, the two wings, and the central part as far as the platform, were erected under the direction of the former; the octagon building on the top, designed from the Temple of the Winds at Athens, was com pleted under the auspices of Mr. Wyatt. The front extends 175 feet, each of the wings being 69 feet; and the top of the globe is about 106 feet from the ground. It comprises a dwelling- house for the Observer, a library, rooms for obser vations and lectures, and is amply furnished with mathematical instruments.3 The interior can only be viewed by permission of the Observer. a The science of Astronomy has been followed in Oxford at several periods, with great assiduity. The celebrated Roger Bacon made many astronomical observations from the tower of Sunningwell Church, about four miles south of Oxford: but in the winter this spot must have been difficult of access, on account of the floods which are constantly out in that direction. Sir Henry Savile was the first person who gave the means for instruction in geometry and astronomy, and consigned to the University the care of providing an observatory. In the Savilian library is a large collection of instruments that belonged to Professor Greaves, and were probably used by him in the upper room of the Schools' tower, which seems to have been the place in which the professors of astronomy were then in the habit of making their observations. Dr. Wallis occupied Staple Hall, in New College lane, as an observatory. During the professorship of Hornsby, who suc ceeded Bradley in 1762, the transit of Venus in 1769 was at tended with some pleasing astronomical observations. Among the Observers, was Mr. Cyril Jackson, afterwards the celebrated dean of Christ Church. In 1768 Professor Hornsby applied to the University for the erection of a more commodious edifice for these purposes ; and his application having been supported by some of the leading men in the University, was favourably listened to ; and the result was the erection of the present structure. 142 st. Paul's church — university press. Proceeding down the street to the north of the Observatory, on reaching the end of it, we turn to the left, where is ST. PAUL'S CHURCH, Which is a district church in the parish of St. Thomas, and was erected in 1836, by subscription, for the accommodation of the northern division of that parish. It is 80 feet long, 39 broad, and calculated to contain 900 persons. The- design, (Ionic,) was furnished by Mr. Underwood. Immediately oppposite, is the UNIVERSITY PRESS.3 The architect of this splendid edifice was Mr. Daniel Robertson, under whose superintendence the front and south wing were erected; the re mainder was completed under the direction of Mr. Blore. The front extends 250 feet, having a handsome Corinthian gateway in the centre. The wings are 288 feet long and 33 wide. It 3 We have already mentioned the original printing-offices in use by the University, (pp. 80, 88,) ; but the enormous and in creasing demand for books of every kind, which forms so distinguishing a feature of the present age, created a necessity for again extending the effective powers of the academic press, and compelled its directors to provide a more ample receptacle for all their printing machinery and stores, now become so greatly increased. As none was found suitable to the purpose, the University judiciously applied such funds as the press itself in a series of years had accumulated, to the erection of the present capacious and handsome pile of buildings in the north-western suburb of the city. It has lost its distinctive title of the Clarendon Press in consequence of a great portion of the funds used in its erection and management having been supplied by the University. university press. 143 bears the appellation of the University Printing- House ; and here the entire business of its print ing has been carried on since the month of Sep tember, 1 830.3 In the north wing, classical and other works of a general character are printed ; the south wing is used wholly for bibles and prayer- books, whence the principal source of its immense revenue is derived. A little time may well be bestowed by the stranger in inspecting the machi nery, &c, in this portion of the establishment, and in witnessing the extraordinary rapidity with which the work is executed. The University has, by statute, entrusted the management of its press to a select body of eleven of its members, called " Delegates of the Press," including the Vice- Chancellor and Proctors for the time being, by virtue of their offices. b 3 The first sheet worked off at the new press was — 2p of Bishop Lloyd's Greek Testament, 12mo. : the first English work finished here was — Barrow's Theological Works, 8 vols., 8vo., 1836. b The Delegates direct and regulate all the operations of the establishment, without other interference, unless any special order be given by Convocation, to which body all the delegates are responsible ; and by their careful superintendence of its productions, they contribute to render it a most efficient instrument for 6\iffusing true religion and sound learning to all parts of the world. The importance of the Oxford Press is scarcely sufficiently estimated: it has a great effect on the resident members of the University, as an instrument to provide a ready and correct supply of books for academical purposes ; and while it satisfactorily effects this, it performs the more important function of exercising a salutary influence over the whole press of Great Britain, stimulating it by the force of example : and it furnishes immense supplies of the Holy Scriptures, not only in the English but in numerous other languages, with a rapidity commensurate with the daily in creasing wants of the public, and with a correctness for which the whole Christian world must be thankful. 144 WORCESTER COLLEGE. In the centre of the interior Quadrangle, which is tastefully arranged, is a reservoir for gold and silver fish, — formerly containing a very extensive supply, but now considerably reduced by an accident, — and at the rear are the handsome residences of the principals. After leaving the Printing-House, we proceed in a southerly direction down Walton Place, pass ing, on the left, the House of Industry,3 till we arrive at the entrance to WORCESTER COLLEGE." Founded in 1714, by Sir Thomas Cookes, of Bentley, in Worcestershire. Foundation — A Provost (appointed by the Chancellor,) 21 Fellows, 16 Scholars, and 3 Exhibitioners. There are also other Members not on the foundation. The number of Mem bers on the College books is 284. " Built in 1772, of stone, from a design by Mr. Gwynne, the architect of Magdalene Bridge and the Market, and is intended for the reception of the poor of the eleven united parishes of Oxford. It consists of two stories ; and the front measures 237 feet in length. Owing to the increasing number of those for whom such a building is intended, greater space is required, and it is in contemplation to- erect a larger edifice. b Though Worcester College is one of the most modern existing in Oxford, it occupies the site, and in its buildings exhibits the remains, of one of the earliest seminaries for religious education. It was originally called Gloucester Hall, from the noted Gilbert de Clare, first Earl of Gloucester, who had at one time resided in it. The monks of Gloucester having renounced all right to an exclusive possession of the place, John Giffard, in 1283, obtained a licence from Edward I. to found a religious estabhshment here for the Benedictines, who might be enabled to educate the scholars who resorting to them for the purpose of education ; these were divided from each other, and placed in different lodgings or cells, according to the vari ous quarters from whence they came. Many of these little cells, with their distinct doorways and roofs, still remain. Abbot Whethamstede, of St. Alban's, was a benefactor to the WORCESTER COLLEGE. 145 Visitors — The Bishops of Oxford and Worcester, and the Vice-Chancellor of the University. *** Porter's Lodoe — On the right of the gateway. Places worthy of inspection — The Chapel, Hall, Gardens, and Water-Walks. Among the Renowned Characters who were Members of Gloucester Hall and this College, were — Thomas Allen, who was called " the very Soul and Sun of all the mathematicians of his time" ; Sir Kenelm Digby, a great contributor to the Bodleian Library; Thomas Coryate, author of" Crudities," &c. ; Dr. Treadway Russel Nash, the historian of Worcester shire, and editor of " Hudibras" ; and Dr. Robert Bourne, Aldrichian professor of Medicine, who died in 1830. college, and the arms of his monastery may yet be seen ; as may also the very curious arms, or rebus, of one W. Compton, over the western doorway ; they have the letter SJ2H carved on stone with a comb and a tun, surmounted by a mitre : separated from these by a pretty little niche is the device of three cups under a crown. After the suppression of the monasteries in the time of Henry Vni., when the see of Oxford was removed from Osney to this city, the college was converted into the Episcopal palace, and inhabited by Bishop King : but in the year 1559 it was purchased by Sir Thomas White, the founder of St. John's College, and on St. John the Baptist's day in the following year, it was taken possession of by the new principal and fellows, under the title of St. John the Baptist's Hall. Until the Rebellion it continued in a very flourishing condition, but afterwards gradually sunk into comparative insignificance. It was finally made over to the trustees of Sir Thomas Cookes, for the purpose of carrying out his intention of founding a college ; and the new society was incorporated July 29, 1714. A considerable portion of the ancient edifice, on the east side, is still visible ; and nothing can present a more striking con trast than the old and new buildings, as seen from the inner court. The ancient kitchen and buttery on the south side, are yet remaining ; the latter, however, has been reduced to make a passage each way. Over the ancient arch of entrance is sculptured, on a shield, in high relief, a large griffin segreant, propably for the name of Reade, a benefactor. After the demolition of the old refectory, this room was used as the common dining-hall of the college, till the new hall was completed in 1784. The small quadrangular court, adjoining, retains many vestiges of the separate lodgings of the Bene dictines. 146 WORCESTER COLLEGE CHAPEL, HALL, Sec. Worcester College consists principally of one Quadrangle, — having the Chapel, Hall, and Li brary, on the east ; the Gardens on the west ¦ and on the north and south, Apartments for the Members. The Chapel, 60 feet in length and 30 in breadth, stands on the site of the former edifice, and is a part of the general design first suggested by Dr. Clarke, for rebuilding the whole College.3 The stucco work of the roof is richly ornamental : the Altar-piece is a " Magdalene," — supposed to be by Guido, — the gift of Dr. Nash. The Hall, finished in 1784, is a noble room, 60 feet in length, 30 in height, and 30 in breadth; the ceiling is adorned with stucco, but there is little other ornament; the east end (like the east end of the chapel,) is lighted by a kind of Vene tian window, having, on the exterior, Ionic couple- columns and festoons above ; and at the west end are two fluted Corinthian columns, 25 feet high. The room contains the following portraits, com mencing on the left of the entrance : — Dr. Eaton ; Lady Holford ;b Dr. Blechynden, the first provost : at the upper end of the room is a large picture of a Dutch Fish-Market, said to be by Snyders : on the right, Dr. Landon, the late provost ; Mrs. Eaton ;*• Sir Thomas Cookes, the founder, (whole length,) by Sir Godfrey Kneller; Dr. Cotton, the present provost ; and Dr. Clarke. b * Lord Crewe, bishop of Durham, contributed £100 towards the erection, and other persons added small sums : never theless, half a century elapsed before the completion of the chambers for the accommodation of the fellows and scholars on Dr. Clarke's foundation, as well as for those who enjoyed the endowment of Mrs. Eaton. b Lady Holford, Mrs. Sarah Eaton, and Dr. Clarke, were the principal benefactors to the college. WORCESTER COLLEGE GARDENS. 147 The Library is over the open arcade or piazza which connects the entrances of the Hall and Chapel, and has some striking features. It is a magnificent room, 120 feet in length, and filled with a valuable collection of books, partly the gift of Dr. Clarke; among them is a copy of " Carleton's Remembrance of God's Mercy," dated in 1626, richly bound in purple velvet, and ornamented with pearls ; also, several archi tectural works, with MS. notes by Inigo Jones (of whom there is a bust on a pedestal near the window opposite the entrance,); and a curious collection of romances and plays. Several casts of some of the finest statues of antiquity, presented in 1847 by Philip Pusey, Esq., M.P., are placed here." In the lobby leading to the Library is a fine whole-length portrait of the Founder, who is represented with a model of the College in his hand, gazing with admiration at a bust of Alfred. The Common-Room contains a portrait of Dr. Clarke, formerly a Member ; and one of Anthony Cooper, for 60 years a servant of the College. There are two well-executed Paintings in the Bursary : one, of the Interior of a Flemish Cot tage ; the other, of a Romish Fountain. Considerable taste has recently been displayed in the arrangement of the Gardens, which, with the Water- Walks beyond, should not fail to be visited; the latter are of great extent, and so retired, and romantically situated, as to constitute 3 Some very fine pictures, bequeathed by Dr. Nash, are in the possession of the college. o2 148 CITY GAOL. one of the most delightful retreats in Oxford, having formerly been merely a swampy meadow. This agreeable spot appears to have been selected as a primary settlement by the Carmelites, or White Friars, on their arrival in Oxford.3 [The streets to the right of Worcester College, lead to the western suburbs and roads; the churches, &c, in this vicinity; Oxford Castle, (described in our Introduction,) ; the County Hall and Gaol; and other places not of material interest to the tourist. We may state, however, for the use of those who may require the information, that nearly opposite this College is a narrow passage which takes us to the CITY GAOL, A strong and well-planned edifice, admirably adapted for its purposes, situated in a spacious 3 On the first foundation of the Chapel of St. George, in Oxford Castle, Brumman le Riche endowed it with land in Walton Manor, in the suburbs of Oxford ; whence probably arose the tradition that the ancient University was on that side of the town ; the Benedictines also about this time having a very considerable establishment, for the instruction of their novices, on the site of Worcester College. According to historians, here was a Campus Martius, " divided into several portions according to scholastic degrees ;" and " at the end of Non Ultra walk, a piece of ground called Rome, having been a little hill, sometime containing a cave underneath, with a meander therein, and at the top thereof a cross built of stone." This academical retreat was appropriately ter minated at each end by the wells of Plato and Aristotle. But of these combined classical and christian symbols, and of the windmill afterwards erected in the place of them, no trace nor memory now remain to awaken reminiscences of former ages. CITY GAOL. BEAUMONT PALACE. 149 square, called Gloucester Green.3 Till within a short time of its completion, offenders within the jurisdiction of the Mayor of Oxford were confined in the upper part of the north-gate, or, as it was commonly termed, Bocardo. A door belonging to a cell in which the martyred prelates were confined has been preserved by the late Alderman Fletcher, in the lodge or entrance to the Gaol.] From Worcester College our route lies up Beaumont Street ;b at the top of it, on the left- hand side, the eye is instantly attracted by the magnificent facade of the * The Cattle-Market is held here on the second Wednesday in every month. b The street receives its name from Beaumont Palace, situated on a spot of ground now forming the junction of Beaumont and St. John Streets. This Palace was built by Henry I. (called Beauclere, for his patronage of learning,) in 1129, that he might have full opportunity to watch over the interests of the University, and to enjoy the Society afforded by the classical neighbourhood, which was far more congenial to his tastes, than that of the rough barons of his age. Henry was so pleased with his residence, that on his future visits to this part of the country, he divided his time equally between this Palace and his other newly-erected one at Woodstock. Henry II., in the early part of his reign, frequently made it his residence ; and his son, Richard I., was born here, — on which occasion there were great rejoicings, Beaumont Palace continued to be the dwelling of the Kings of England until the time of Edward II., who gave it to the Carmelites, or White Friars, in consequence of a vow made during the wars with Robert, Bruce. Even after it was occupied by the Carmelites, many of the succeeding sov ereigns are said to have made Beaumont their home, when , they visited Oxford : Henry VI. is particularly mentioned, as having resided here for some time. A small low fragment, one of the sides of which exhibited a doorway opening beneath a pointed arch, was remaining only a few years since ; but this has been pulled down to make a passage for the west side of St. John Street. o3 150 UNIVERSITY GALLERIES, UNIVERSITY (RANDOLPH) GALLERIES, AND TAYLOR INSTITUTION.3 The imposing structure now under our notice, was erected under the auspices of the well-known architect, Professor C. R. Cockerell, D.C.L., whose design was selected by the committee, out of thirty-four projects submitted to them in 1840. a Sir Robert Taylor, knight, the founder of the Institute which bears his name, was a sculptor and architect of some eminence, who, after many wanderings and misfortunes in foreign climes, returned to his native country to experience the changes of fate and fortune, and ended a prosperous and useful career in 1788, leaving the bulk of his property to the University, to be applied, after accumulating for a period of time, " in erecting a proper edifice, and establishing a founda tion for the teaching and improving in the European languages." One thing is remarkable : the testator has liberally empowered the University to promote the end he had in view in such manner as shall from time to time be approved of by them in Convocation assembled. — Dr. Francis Randolph, principal of St Alban Hall, in this University, in 1760, also left a sum of money " for erecting a building for the reception of the Pomfret Statues belonging to the University of Oxford, and for Paintings, Engravings, and other CuriositieB which may occasionally be left to that learned body." The union of this property, together with a considerable sum of money from the funds of the University, has resulted in the erection of the splendid edifice above described. In what quarter of the known world can we look for so many wonders and glories as in Oxford ? Where else shall we find an equal number of buildings, each presenting a type of a distinct age ? Where shall we find the time-honoured cus toms of remote periods still receiving the reverence due to them, as in this palatial city ? And, lastly, where else than at Oxford shall we find the array of names, " good, great, and glorious," famed in the annals of every age, who have turned to Oxford as a home, ever receiving the welcome due to their respective merits. And now, when yielding to the advances of modern improvement, and presenting signs of energy unsurpassed by her sister cities, Oxford produces her Martyrs' Memorial, her University Galleries and Taylor Buildings, she may well stand forth to the world as a star of exceeding mag nitude. 152 UNIVERSITY GALLERIES, It must undoubtedly be conceded that this Building claims for the architect great praise for originality and elegance of detail; for although the order is Grecian-Ionic, taken from the Temple of Apollo Epicurius, at Bassse, near Phigalea,3 — an example but little used, though very singular, and which was introduced into this country by Professor Cockerell himself, — yet it must be con sidered as decidedly of the Palladian or Italian School in disposition. The entire extent is 240 3 In accordance with the prevailing desire for architectural antiquity and detail, an account of this once celebrated Temple, cannot fail to prove of interest. The Temple op Apollo Epicurius, at Bassae, was unknown to the modern world, till it was explored by Mr. Cockerell, in conjunction with the profound Haller. In consequence of their visit, it was excavated in 1812, and the dimensions found to be 125 by 47 feet. Externally it was of the Doric order, having six columns in the front and fifteen on the sides ; 3 feet 7 inches in diameter, and 19 feet 6 inches high. Around the interior of the cella was a series of attached columns of the order that Professor Cockerell has adopted at the Taylor Institute, over which, on the four sides of the cella, ranged a sculptured frieze. This was sent to England, and was purchased for the British Museum, at the cost of £15,000. The roof was of marble. Mr. Donaldson, who has ably illustrated this Temple in the supplemental volume to " Stuart's Athens," expresses his opinion that the date of the interior of the Temple may be less remote than that of the exterior, as the Ionic capitals in question are less severe than would be found in the age of Pericles, to which the latter unquestion ably belongs. Apollo Epicurius* may be classed amongst the most important architectural antiquities of Greece, *' from the ascertained era of its design, the character of its style of art, the beauty of its ornaments, and the extent of its preservation." Phigalea (near the site of which place the Temple occurs,) was situated at the south-western angle of the province of Arcadia, and was built (according to Pausanias,)by Phygalus, son of Lycaon, and grandson of Pelasgus. The architect of the Temple was Ictinus, who died 429 years B.C. * The name of "Epicurius" (Driver -away of Evil,) was applied to Apollo, for having driven from the Athenians a pestilential disease. AND TAYLOR INSTITUTION. 153 by 102 feet, and to give elevation to the structure, the whole of it, together with the fore-court, is raised upon a terrace, faced with Whitby stone, by which arrangement there is obtained a spa cious basement, or crypt, light and airy. The pediment of the elegant portico is surmounted by a finely executed figure of Apollo. On the side of each wing, facing the fore-court, there are four attached Grecian-Ionic columns, carrying blocks of entablature and vases, shown in profile, similar to those on the front of the wings, with corresr- ponding semi-circular openings in the face of the wall, terminating the windows, which are between the several columns. The entrance to the University Galleries is in the west wing, in Beaumont Street, and presents no particular architectural feature; that to the Taylor Institute, in St. Giles's Street, is marked by four detached Ionic columns, with a block of the entablature over each, bearing beautifully- sculptured figures, emblematical of European Languages; and on the bases are engraved the names of the most famous literary characters of the countries which they represent — Germany, France, Italy, and Spain. These, and the figure of Apollo already mentioned, were executed, under the direction of the architect, by Mr. G. W. Nicholl. The massive gates may be mentioned as worthy of a little attention. Thus much for the exterior. The internal ar rangement of this Building of double intentions, requires, however, somewhat more than a slight notice. The centre portico opens into the princi- 154 SCDLPTURE AND CHANTREY GALLERtES. pal Sculpture Gallery, a splendid apartment, 90 feet by 28, the sides of which are formed into a series of recesses, by Doric antse, projecting from the walls. The mode of lighting these, as well as the other recesses, is worthy to be noticed. Contrary to the wishes of the architect the walls of the Gallery are coloured pale green, and the pilasters in imitation of red granite. Irish green marble is extensively used in the floor, as a deco ration. In this room will be found — Casts of Antique Statues and Busts ; — the greater part of these were taken at Rome from moulds made for the Emperor Napoleon, and were presented by Lady Chantrey. Within the Tribune, — the Laocoon, Ilissus, and Torso Belvidere, are ex ceedingly beautiful. In the centre of the Gallery is — a Cast of the " Florentine Boar," presented by the Provost and Fellows of Queen's College. Within the Vestibule, the circular recess facing the principal entrance to the Building contains the most exquisite pieces of Art, being — Casts of the Nine Muses, from the originals at Rome, presented by P. B. Duncan, Esq., of New College: hence this spot is entitled " The Temple of the Muses." Here is also a portion of the rare Collection of Marbles, presented by the Countess of Pomfret; for a good description of these we must refer the Visitor to the " Hand-Book for the Galleries," published by the Keeper. Leading from this, and forming a wing of the same room, is the " Chantrey Gallery," a noble apartment, 180 feet by 28, containing— The Original Models of the greatest works of the late Sir Francis Chantrey, UNIVERSITY GALLERIES PICTURE GALLERY. 155 the munificent gift of Lady Chantrey, some of them of unexampled beauty : they are about forty-one in number. From hence, returning through the Sculpture Gallery, and descending the stairs, we are led into the Crypt, which is appropriated for Sculptural Fragments, and al ready contains, amongst much that is worthless, some valuable relics of ancient Art, including the remainder of the " Pomfret Collection of Marbles" to the number of about one hundred and thirty, — some of these are exceedingly curious, and well worthy the closest attention ; a very large number of Models for Busts, by Sir F. Chantrey; and many other curiosities. Before proceeding to the Crypt, the Visitor should direct his attention to a beautiful production of Art, near the steps ; this is " A Bronze Cast of Flaxman's Shield of Achilles," presented by Messrs. Rundell and Bridge, of London. Ascending the Great Staircase, which bounds the University Galleries on the east, the visitor next arrives at — The Raffaelle and Angelo Gallery, and the Picture. Gallery. The Frieze introduced above in this staircase are — Casts of the celebrated Phigalean Marbles, (re covered by Professor Cockerell,) now in the British Museum, representing, " The Battles of the Centaurs and Lapithse, a^d of the Athenians and Amazons." Here is likewise a Cast of the Venus Celeste. The Colossal Head on the land ing is a Cast from one of the Figures holding Horses on Monte Cavallo. 156 RAFFAELLE AND ANGELO, AND Passing through an ante-room, intended for paintings, we enter the fire-proof Gallery, of large dimensions, 70 feet by 28, where are deposited those Wonders of Art, — The Original Drawings by Raffaelle and Michael Angelo, purchased by subscription for £7,000, towards which the Earl of Eldon contributed the very munificent sum of £4,105. There are here a greater number of Drawings than exists in any single gallery in the world, including about 190 by Raffaelle, and 87 by Michael Angelo. In looking on these wonder ful productions, the mind easily reverts to the Ages of the Past, and fancy calls up sketches of those great men daily toiling amid the gloom of oppressive thoughts and troublous times for the advancement of Art and the benefit of Posterity : here are their rude drawings, executed at various portions of their lives, each one, it may be said, explanatory of the feelings by which the subject was dictated. The Picture Gallery is a spacious apart ment, 96 feet long by 28 wide, and 28 high ; it contains — Raffaelle's celebrated " Cartoons (or co loured Drawings on paper,) at Hampton Court," copied by Cooke,3 and presented to the University by John, duke of Marlborough : — 1. The intended Sacrifice to Paul and Barnabas by the People of Lystra ; — 2. The Miraculous Draught of Fishes ; — 3. Christ's Charge to Peter ; — 4. Peter and John healing the Lame at the Beautiful Gate of the 3 Henry Cooke, a painter, was employed by King William III. to repair the original Cartoons. PICTURE GALLERIES. 157 Temple ; — 5. The Death of Ananias ; — 6. Elymas the Sorcerer struck with Blindness ; and, 7. Paul preaching at Athens. Here, too, is a Copy, in oil, supposed to be by Giulio Romano, of that wonder ful picture, by Raffaelle, " The School of Athens," from the original Fresco in the Vatican at Rome, in which, with a painter's license, are brought together, the Philosophers and Mathematicians of various ages, — the subject being that of" Phi losophy in general." The divine Plato is denoted by his pointing upward to Heaven, and holding his Dialogue " Timaeus" under his arm ; next to him is Aristotle, supporting on his knee his Book of " Ethics." These two, whose doctrines were more regarded in the time of Raffaelle than those of any other Philosophers, are the principal figures. The learned Theophrastus is on the right ; and on the left, Socrates is convincing his favourite pupil, Alcibiades, with a demonstra tive argument : between these two figures are Xenophon and Antisthenes. Below, Pope Julius II. is represented crowned with -oak-leaves, and writing in a book supported by the base of a column. The last figure at the bottom, on the left, is Empedocles, who is observing Pythagoras writing down his Harmonic Unions : the young man in a white robe, standing on the right of the latter, represents Francesco Maria della Rovere, duke of Urbino ; and next to him is Terpander or Nichomachus. The next figure is Zeno ; and at a little distance from him, Diogenes, the Cynic, is thrown on the steps in a slovenly manner, with his cup by his side. On the right, Euclid p 158 RAFFAELLE AND ANGELO, AND is drawing on a slate (though Vasari says that this figure is a portrait of Bramante, the archi tect,); above, the handsome youth who inclines his head and raises his hands in admiration, is Frederick II. , duke of Mantua. Zoroastres, king of the Bactrians, holding a terrestrial globe, is known by his radiated crown ; he is attended by Archimedes, the great mathematician of Sicily, who has his famous Celestial Sphere in his hand : behind the former, the young man, of modest aspect, pleasing and graceful air, is supposed to represent Raffaelle, the painter, himself; and next to him is his master, Pietro Perugino: thus, we have here a greater number of genuine Portraits of the most celebrated characters, than is represented on the canvas of any other picture. A few other good Paintings may be men tioned : — " Moses Striking the Rock," by Jor- daens ; " Henry IV. of France on Horseback" ; " A Sea- Piece with Buildings," by Claude Lor raine ; " Our Saviour's first Appearance to his Disciples after his Resurrection," by Jordaens ; " The Marquis of Granby on Horseback, relieving a sick Soldier's Family" ; " The Death of Gene ral Wolf"; and " The Death of Addison," with the following Inscription :— ' When he found his life near its end, he directed the young Lord Warwick to be called; and, when he desired with great tenderness to hear his last injunctions, told him, " I have sent for you to see how a Christian can die.'" Here are also many other interesting works, amongst which may be men- PICTURE GALLERIES — HALL. 159 tioned — some Portraits of the Early Masters and other Painters, by themselves, including an ad mirable one of Isaac Fuller, painted by himself when in a state of intoxication; and those rare productions, " The Seven Vices, painted on cop per, by G. Schalken, in 1656;" they represent — Pride, Lust, Envy, Sloth, Avarice, Drunkenness, and Revenge. A great number of Models for Busts, by Sir F. Chantrey, are dispersed through out this apartment, on stands. At the south end of the Gallery are busts, by Chantrey, of George IV., William IV., and Her Most Gracious Majesty Queen Victoria. The room is lighted by means of six hexagonal lights in the ceiling, and two windows at the end: the walls are painted red, and have a somewhat unfinished appearance, which will be removed when an increase is made in the number of pictures. These rooms, together with the lodgings for the Keeper, constitute the front and west wing of the entire Building ; and, indeed, form the principal objects, for the notice of Visitors. By descending lhe stairs on the right of the Picture Gallery, the Visitor is conducted to the entrance (or exit) door. In the Hall is a Picture of the Earl and Countess of Pomfret : the latter presented to the University the collec tion of Marbles, called " The Pomfret Statues." % * An excellent Catalogue of the contents of the Galleries, with a key to the Painting of "The School of Athens"; likewise of the Raffaelle and Angelo Drawings ; as well as Etchings of the Chantrey Collection ; have been published by the Keeper, and may be obtained on the premises. p2 160 TAYLOR INSTITUTION.' — ST. MICHAEL'S CHURCH. Of the interior of the eastern wing, or Sir 11; Taylor's Institute, a passing glance is all that is necessary. It comprises, in addition to the lodg ings of the Librarian, five good lecture-rooms, with a Professor's apartment, and an elegant and spacious Library; the latter is a cube of nearly 40 feet. The Institute has very recently been opened under the auspices of a Professor in European languages, and two teachers in French and German : these are to ¦. be followed by tutors in Spanish, Italian, and other modern languages, from time to time, as the funds will allow a gradual increase in the means of endowment. The classes are open to all members of the Uni versity.3 On leaving the Randolph and Taylor Buildings, the Visitor, (who has doubtlessly experienced much delight during the time occupied by their inspec tion,) passing St. Mary Magdalene Church, will proceed a short distance up Corn-market Street, where, on the left, is ST. MICHAEL'S CHURCH, A very ancient Norman or Saxon edifice, origin ally the church of St. Mildred, forming a portion of the possessions of St. Frideswide's Priory. * When the intentions of Sir Robert Taylor, with respect to this advancement in modern study, shall have been fully carried into effect; and the long-talked-of and necessary improvements made in the system of " University Education" ; then will Oxford stand on the Towering Pinnacle of Fame, •surmounted by a Crown of Literary Glory : — a position so requisite for the first and oldest University in the world. st. Michael's church. — eocardo. 161 The most ancient part of the present fabric is the Tower, supposed to be a relic of Saxon times ; the Lady-Chapel is also very antique, but seems to have been repaired about the time of Richard II. , whose bust, with that of his Queen Isabella, is seen in good preservation outside the east window. In the Chancel are a piscina and sedilia for three officiating ministers. The Screen which formerly supported the rood-loft still remains at the entrance into the Chancel, with another screen to the north. The antique niches in various parts of the church and porch are ex tremely elegant in form and workmanship." * Nearly adjoining the tower of St. Michael's church, stood the celebrated Bocardo, the principal north gate of the city, which was more strongly fortified than any of the other gates, having no river before it to assist in its defence, as was the case with all the others. When the fortification fell into disuse, the room over the gateway, (which had in early times served as a muniment-room,) was applied to the purpose of a common prison, principally for debtors. There are persons living who remember it as such, and also an ancient custom of the debtors letting down from the window by a cord, a hat, to receive the charity of passengers. But this place has derived its chief renown, and will be ever memorable, as the place of confinement of the glorious Martyrs, Cranmer, Ridley, and Latimer, previous to their execution. Ridley and Latimer were first executed, (on the spot previously mentioned,) October 16, 1555, and suffered death for the religion they professed with wonderful and inspiring courage, in the presence of the chief Magistrates of the University and City, and a vast number of spectators : Cranmer is said to have ascended to the top of the tower in which he was con fined, to witness their execution ; where he kneeled down and prayed to God to strengthen their faith : shortly afterwards, (March 21, 1556,) he was called on to share their fate, precisely on the same spot. It appears that during their confinement, Cranmer, Ridley, and Latimer were kept in separate lodgings, but were some times suffered to take their meals together, in the prison of Bocardo. A curious MS. memorandum is extant of the -disbursements by the bailiffs of Oxford, on account of the p3 162 st. Michael's church. — bocardo. Immediately opposite this church is New-Inn Hall Street ; proceeding down it, and passing the Wesleyan Chapel, we arrive at imprisonment and execution of the Reformers. This docu ment, an extract from which we give below, is entitled " A book of their diet, dinner, and supper, and the charge thereof, which was at the expense of Winkle and Wells, bailiffs of the city at that time." EXTRACT. 1st of Oct., 1555 — Dinner : — £ s. d. Bread and Ale .... .0 0 2 Oysters .... 0 0 1 Butter .... 0 0 2 Eggs .... 0 0 2 Lyng .... 0 0 8 A Piece of fresh Salmon 0 0 10 Wine .... 0 0 3 Cheese and Pears 0 0 2 The last Disbursements are these : — For three load of fagots to burn Ridley and Latimer Item, one load of furze fagots . Por the carriage of these four loads Item, a post Item, two chains Item, two staples Item, four labourers The Charges for burning Cranmer: — 0 2 6 £ s. d. 0 12 0 0 3 4 0 3 4 0 1 4 0 3 4 0 0 6 0 2 8 £16 6 For 100 of wood fagots . For 100 and J of furze ditto For the carriage of them For two labourers 0 12 8 NEW-INN HALL, 163 NEW-INN HALL. Founded in 1460 by William of Wykeham.8 Visitor — The Chancellor of the University of Oxford. A great number of Eminent Characters have belonged to this Hall, in its several transitions : among them "we may par ticularly mention — Sir W. Dunne, D.C.L., principal, the first burgess elected to represent the University in parlia ment ; the Rev. W. Stone, B.C.L., founder of the Hospital in St. Clement's parish, called after his name ; De Blossiers Tovey, principal in 1732, author of a curious and interest ing work, entitled " Anglia Judaica ; or, the History and Antiquity of the Jews in England," (Oxford : 1738, quarto,) ; Chief Justice Blackstone, principal in 1761, died in 1780, aged 86 years ; he was succeeded in the office by his son, Dr. James Blackstone, fellow of All Souls' College, Recorder of Wallingford, and Deputy Steward of the University; on the death of the latter, the Rev. Dr. J. A. Cramer, dean of Carlisle, Regius Professor of Modern History, and the founder of an University Prize, was appointed principal in 1831 ; and he, having resigned the office in 1847, was succeeded by the Rev. Dr. Henry Wellesley, (Curator of the University Galleries,) appointed by the Chancellor, the Duke of Wellington. a These premises, situated on the. spot called " The Seven Deadly Sins," (probably from there being at this point seven narrow lanes infested by the most disreputable characters,) were, purchased by William of Wykeham, in 1369, of the successors of Thomas Trilleck, bishop of Rochester, whose brother, John Trilleck, bishop of Hereford, (from whom the place received the name of Trilleck' s Inn,) had acquired them from Frideswide, daughter and heir of William Pennard. In 1460, Wykeham conveyed the tenements to New College', and these, having become much dilapidated, were entirely rebuilt by that Society, whence is derived the present name of New-Inn Hall. There was formerly a chapel built by the Bernardines, who studied here before Chichele built them his College in St. Giles's ; there are, however, but few traces remaining either of this or any of the old buildings. On the removal of the Bernardines, this Hall was thrown open to all respectable students ; and, accordingly, a great many were in the habit of repairing hither, until the Reformation. Having shared with the other halls the usual unpopularity of 164 st. peter's- le-bailey church. A neat Mansion, with convenient apartments for the use of students, was erected at the expense of the late principal, Dr. J. A. Cramer. Be yond this edifice, if we except the antiquity of the foundation and its associations, there is but little here to interest the stranger." At the extremity of New-Inn Hall Street, on the right, (adjoining the Baptist Chapel,) is ST. PETER'S-LE-BAILEY CHURCH, So called from having originally been situated in the Bailey of the Castle : the foundation of it, like that of most of the other churches in Oxford, is beyond the reach of any record; but it un doubtedly belonged to St. Frideswide's Priory. The present edifice is comparatively a modern restoration : it was rebuilt in the middle of the last century ; and, from a want of funds, in the plainest manner. The interior has recently been decorated and re-pewed at the expense of a late curate, the Rev. W. B. Heathcote, fellow of New College, who also presented to the Church a very handsome Font, after the Winchester model. contributing to an Oxford education, in the succeeding century " it again rose into notice" under principal Rogers, " a noted puritan," and became " a nest of Precisians and Puritans." * The site of New-Inn Hall has been occasionally used as a mint, from the earliest times ; there is a specimen in the Bodleian Library of the coin struck in the time of Alfred : it was restored for a period in the reign of Charles I., who came to Oxford after the battle of Edgehill. At this mint were struck those coins known by the name of Exurgat money, so called from the legend on the reverse — " Exurgat Deus dissipentur Inimici :"—(Let God arise and his Enemies be scattered.) st. thomas's and st. ebee's churches, &c. 165 [Turning to the right from New-Inn Hall Street, two roads diverge ; that on the right leads to the County Hall and Gaol, the Castle, (See Introduction, p. ix., note *,) and, over a bridge of peculiar construction, to the Bath and Cheltenham roads ; that on the left to St. Thomas's Church." The avenue exactly opposite New-Inn Hall Street, conducts to St. EbbeV and Trinity Churches, (the latter being a newly- erected district church belonging to St. Ebbe's parish,) and to Mr. Bulteel's Chapel.] On leaving St. Peter's Church, we proceed, on a The church of St. Thomas was anciently dedicated to the memory of Nicholas, bishop of Myra. In 1141, it was granted to the canons of Osney, (who, on account of the increase of their Abbey, required an additional place of worship,) for the use of their parishioners of St. George's, who were deprived of access to their parish church, within the precincts of Oxford Castle, when the Empress Maude was closely besieged therein by King Stephen. After the dissolution of Osney Abbey, the advowson was granted to Christ Church College, to which Society it still belongs. The extensive parish con tains the greater part of the western suburbs of the city, (extending northwards as far as Jericho, with the district church of St. Paul, at the latter place,) including the an- gjent parish of St. George, and the, sites of the Abbeys of Osney and Rewley. 5 The foundation of this church is completely involved in obscurity, but it belongs to the very earliest Saxon ages, the Saint to whom it was dedicated, having been the daughter of Ethelfred, king of the Northumbrians. The only part of the old building now remaining is the Tower, and, from the interior, it is evident that this is of great antiquity, being built of marble, very massive, and having no staircase. The new edifice, which cost about £3000, was opened for divine service on the 9th of February, 1817. Mr. W. Fisher, of this city, was the architect and builder. The Font was given by the late Dr. Griffith, master of University College. ' 166 ST. martin's, or carfax church. the left, up Queen Street, where, at its junction with Corn-market Street, is Carfax, or ST. MARTIN'S CHURCH. This Church was originally dedicated to the memory of a Bishop of Tours, in France, who died in 399. The advowson fell to the Bene dictines of St. Mary, at Abingdon, about 1032, and remained in their possession until the disso lution of monasteries, in the reign of Henry VIII., since which time it has continued to be a rectory in the gift of the Crown, and is the place of worship used by the civic authorities." Of all the ancient edifice only the Tower remains; this is venerable from its antiquity, though it does not harmonise well with the modern Church : it was formerly much higher, but was shortened by command of Edward III., because, upon the complaints of the scholars, the townsmen would, during the " gown and town" quarrels, retire thither as to their castle, and from thence gall and annoy them with arrows and stones. The ancient Font, of the 14th century, is still pre served, though rather in a mutilated state. - Besides the rector there are also four lecturers, who are appointed by the mayor, recorder, aldermen, and assistants of the city : these were well endowed in 1778, by the liberality of Robert, earl of Lichfield, and W. Wickham, Esq., one of the assistants; the former assigned £1000, which sum his, trustees invested in the purchase of ten £100 shares in the Oxford Canal Navigation Company ; and the latter gave five more shares in the same Company, as an addition to the fund, which now yields an annual dividend of nearly £600. There is also a reader appointed by the dean of Christ Church Col lege, who receives £20 per annum from a fund bequeathed by Bishop Fell, for a lecturer to read prayers daily in a church in Oxford. st. martin's, or carfax church. 167 The present structure was erected under the superintendence of Messrs. Harris and Plowman, of Oxford, who were the architects and builders. The expense was defrayed chiefly by public sub scription, to which the University as a body, the Corporation of the city, and most of the Colleges liberally contributed. The new structure was opened for divine service, June 16, 1822." On leaving St. Martin's Church, we proceed a Attached to the east end of the old church was Pennyless Bench, chiefly known to modern readers by T. Wharton's humourous description of it, in his " Companion to the Guide, and the Guide to the Companion." Here also the Mayor and his brethren formerly used to meet for the transaction of public business. It was either built or repaired in Henry VHIth's time ; but in 1747 it was removed, from a representa tion being made to the Common Council that it was a great nuisance, being a harbour for idle and disorderly people ; and it was then ordered to be immediately taken down. The site of it continues to be a favourite loitering-place to this day ; and it is still the custom for labourers seeking employ ment to linger about this spot for the chance of being hired. On the south side of the church, but separated from it by the street, is the ancient Butter Bench, as it is still called, though it has long ceased to be used for the purpose which its name indicates. It is at the present time converted into a Police Station for the City. Beneath these premises some very ancient and extensive vaults are still in existence, now in the occupation of Mr. Butler, wine-merchant. Nearly in the centre of the four streets which meet at this point (hence quatre voies, or Carfax,) once stood the celebrated structure called Carfax Conduit; a beautiful and very in teresting piece of masonry, erected in 1617, at the expense of Otho Nicholson, Esq., of Christ Church College, for the purpose of supplying the different colleges and halls with water, brought from a hill above the village of North Hinksey. The Conduit was taken down about the year 1787, and presented by the University to Earl Harcourt ; it was re-constructed in that nobleman's Park at Nuneham, to which lovely spot, it now forms one of the chief orna ments. The fabric is of a square form below, and octangular above. From the angles to the base, which is solid, spring two fine arches ; these, crossing each other diagonally, form a support to the octangular portion of the structure. 168 TOWN HALL. southwards down St. Aldate's Street ; the first building on the left, is the TOWN HALL, A handsome stone edifice, erected in 1752, chiefly at the expense of Thomas Rowney, Esq., formerly High Steward of the City, and one of its representatives in parliament. This structure is two stories high, but the whole of the lower one is formed into a piazza or corridor," having, towards the street, massive square pillars adorned with rustic work. A statue of Mr. Rowney has lately been placed in the niche in the centre of the building, the gift of Charles Tawney, Esq., of this city : it is of Caen stone, and was sculp tured by Mr. Grimsley, of Oxford. The County business and Assizes were formerly held here, but have been removed to the new County Courts on the New Road, already mentioned.1' a The Corn and Flour Market is held in this corridor every Saturday. In the southern end of the building is the Post-Opfice; (See Introduction, p. ix., note «.) b We find mention made of a public hall " Gildalla," near Carfax Church, for the use of the burgesses of Oxford, in the reign of Henry II. This was used for their public meetings after church service ; but they soon removed to the " Domus Conversorum," or house of Converts, the site of the present Town Hall. At the north end of the Hall is the Council-Chamber, a fine old room, containing some good portraits. Beneath the Council-Chamber is the Mayor's Court, and the City Audit Room ; on the cast side of the area are the Town-Clerk's offices ; and on the south side, a large School- Room, built in 1658, by John Nixon, Esq., alderman of Oxford, a native of Bletchingdon, in this county : the foundation is for the education of the sons of forty freemen ; and money was left by Mrs. Nixon, at her death, for appren ticing two of these boys annually. st. aldate's church. 169 Lower down the street, on the opposite side of the way, is ST. ALDATE'S CHURCH, A Rectory in the gift of Pembroke College, having been granted to that Society in 1636, by Charles I." It had previously belonged to Abing don Abbey and St. Frideswide's Priory. Tha» present fabric is a venerable structure, and derives considerable interest from the compara tively perfect state in which it remains, and the satisfactory account preserved of most parts of the building. Of the present edifice, (which was neatly re-pewed and fitted up in 1832,) the Chancel contains some of the most interesting features, paiticularly an arcade of five small circular arches on the north, of about the time of the Conquest. The Nave has two noble arches : the Font, a very rich style of the 14th century, is in good preservation. The South Aisle, called the Trinity Chapel, was actually built in 1335, by Sir John de Docklington, a fishmonger, who had been several times Mayor of Oxford : here is a remarkably fine Altar-Tomb, of alabaster, to the memory of John Noble, LL.B. principal of Broadgates' Hall, (now Pembroke College,) who died in 1522.b The windows in a Like all the ecclesiastical edifices of Oxford, no record remains of the foundation of this church : it is supposed to be British, before the settlement of the Danes or the Saxons ; ' the Saint to whom it was dedicated, was an enemy to both those races ; he lived about the year 450, and through his means, Hengist, King of the Angles, was defeated and slain. b Beneath this aisle is a vaulted crypt, long used as a char nel-house, but now cleaned out and repaired. Q 170 cardinal wolsey's alms-houses. this Aisle are particularly elegant : the upper story was for a short time used as a library for Pembroke College. The North Aisle was built in 1455; and the Tower and Spire belong to the early part of the fourteenth century. * On the south side of St. Aldate's Church, on the site of some tenements belonging to the family of Segrim, formerly burgesses of the city, are some well-designed Alms-Houses, founded by Cardinal Wolsey ; but he having been disgraced before they were completed, they were afterwards endowed by Henry VIII. out of the revenues of Christ Church College, the nomination of the almsmen being given to the Dean : it has been usual to appoint persons who have served in the army or navy. The buildings remained in an unfinished state, having the appearance of ruins, until 1834, when the original intention was carried into effect, under the superintendence of Mr. Underwood, at the expense of the Dean and Chapter of Christ Church, with a view to the great improvements contemplated in this part of the city.11 Adjoining the Alms-houses on the west, is " Between the south end of the Aims-Houses and Christ Church College, formerly stood the south gate of the city, fortified with towers on each side. The hill was originally very steep here, as may be seen by the marks remaining of the former level, on both sides of the street, and particularly from a blocked-up doorway in the Aims-Houses. A short distance lower down, on the same side, and nearly opposite the western entrance to Christ Church Meadow, are the remains of the mansion built by Robert King, the last Abbot of Osney and first Bishop of Oxford, when he was deprived of Gloucester Hall, after the accession of Edward VI. The house is now in PEMBROKE COLLEGE. 171 PEMBROKE COLLEGE." Founded in 1624, by Thomas Tesdale, Esq., of Glympton, in Oxfordshire ; and the Rev. Richard Wightwick, rector of Ilsley, in Berkshire. b Foundation — A Master, 14 Fellows, and 30 Scholars and Exhibitioners. There are also other Members not on the Foundation. . The number of Members on the College books is 185. Visitor — The Chancellor of the University. *** Porter's Lodge — Right of the entrance gateway. Places worthy of inspection — The Chapel and Hall, the occupation of Mr. Faulkner and others, and is in good preservation. The pargetting work on the exterior is very picturesque : the ceilings and other parts of the interior richly decorated ; and the Aims of Bishop King are several times repeated. A few yards below this house is a stream or ditch, over which the road passes, separating the counties of Oxford and Berks. A short distance below is Folly Bridge, so called from the folly or tower that stood on it, celebrated from its having been used as Friar Bacon's study ; this was origin ally called south bridge, and was rebuilt in 1827 ; just beyond here is the road to the Railway Station. * This College derives its name from William, Earl of Pembroke, Chancellor of the University at the time of its foundation. The site of it was once occupied by numerous academical buildings, the most important of which was Broad- gates' Hall, so called from having a pair of large gates at its entrance. Here was also a mansion belonging to the Priory of St. Frideswide. This same mansion was occupied for many generations by a family of the name of Seagrim, or Segrim ; hence it was called Segrim House, which continued to be its appellation till it assumed the name of Broadgates' Hall, about the beginning of the reign of Henry VI. ; and it en joyed a considerable reputation, particularly for students in civil and canon law, till within a very few years of the establishment of the present College on its site. Dr. Thomas Clayton was the last principal of Broadgates' Hall, and the first master of Pembroke College. 6 Thomas Tesdale, Esq., died June 13, 1610, and bequeathed £5000 to purchase lands, &c, for the maintenance of several Q2 172 PEMBROKE COLLEGE. Among the Renowned Characters who were Members of this College, were — (Broadgates' Hall,) Heywoode, the poet; Camden, founder of the professorship of Ancient History ; Sir John Beaumont, author of several poems, and a younger brother of Francis Beaumont, the twin dramatist of Fletcher, — Henry, Francis, and John Beaumont, entered on the same day, February 4, 1596 ; Pym, a gentleman-commoner in 1599, at the early age of 15, under the tuition of Degory Wheare, the first Camden professor ; (Pembroke College,) Sir Thomas Browne, author of " Religio Medici," who de livered one of the Latin orations on the foundation of the College in 1624 ; Judge Blackstone ; Archbishop Moore ; Whitfield, the English founder of the Calvinistic section of the Methodists ; Shenstone ; Davis Gilbert, late president of the Royal Society ; Graves, author of " Spiritual Quixote"; Dr. Samuel Johnson, the lexicographer; and Dr. Richard Valpy, the late able master of Reading School, and author of several valuable works, — recently deceased. This College comprises two small Courts; at the north-west angle of the first is the Hall, with the Library over it : the Chapel is on the south fellows and scholars, to be elected from the free grammar school at Abingdon, into any school at Oxford. Dr. Abbot, archbishop of Canterbury, wished to engraft this new founda tion with Balliol College; but Richard Wightwick, B.D., having promised an additional benefaction of considerable amount, the trustees conceived that a separate college might be' founded, and Broadgates' Hall was considered to afford the most eligible situation for the purpose. The new estab lishment was assisted by several rich benefactions: and in honour of William, the great earl of Pembroke, his successors in the Chancellorship of the University are always Visitors of the college. Several of the old buildings of Broadgates' Hall are still extant. The present lodgings of the master remained in their original state till the recent improvements took place in 1829 — 30. There were several halls, which, by degrees, were included in the great quadrangle of Pembroke College, such as Minote Hall, and Aula Bovina, or Beef Hall, — hence Beef Hall lane, adjoining. The college is now being consider ably enlarged and improved, in order to allow of more apart ments for the Members. PEMBROKE COLLEGE — HALL, LIBRARY. 173 side of the second Quadrangle. The Master's House adjoins the College on the right of the entrance. The Hall is on the site, and partly the same with the original refectory of Broadgates' Hall, but its roof has lately been raised ; it has been otherwise enlarged and improved ; and a bay window placed at the west end. The cornice and windows have been well painted with the arms of founders and benefactors, of whom there are also some interesting portraits; and busts of Davis Gilbert, Esq., D.C.L., and of Dr. Johnson, by Bacon; the rooms of the latter were on the second floor over the entrance gateway." The Library was put into repair and furnished with books by the first master, Dr. Clayton, and great additions were made on the death of Dr. Hall, master, and bishop of Bristol, in 1709, who bequeathed his whole collection of books to the society. b 1 Johnson was entered a commoner of Pembroke, on the 31st October, 1728, in his 19th year. His rooms, with some slight alteration in their division, and the substitution of a Gothic window for the plainer one of his own time, remain as he left them. He contracted a love and regard for Pem broke College, which he retained to his latest days : a short time before his death he made the college a present of all his books, to be deposited in the library. He took a pleasure in boasting of the many eminent men who had been educated at Pembroke. b The first library that belonged to the college, was the large room over the south aisle of St. Aldate's Church, which, also, in ancient times, was used as a law school ; the books were chained to desks, or put into chests, under lock and key. The visitors of King Edward VI. having emptied this room of its contents, it was discontinued as a library, till the conversion of Broadgates' Hall into Pembroke College. Among other contributors may be mentioned William Gar- q3 174 PEMBROKE COLLEGE CHAPEL, &c. The Chapel, built partly at the expense of Bartholomew Tipping, Esq., of Oxford, whose arms are on the screen, with his motto " Vive ut Vivas," was consecrated in 1732, by Dr. Potter, bishop of Oxford : it is a small but elegant build ing, ornamented with Ionic pilasters between the windows, and surmounted by a panelled parapet which judiciously conceals the roof; the interior is neat, and has been lately repaired and im proved : the Altar-piece represents — Our Saviour after his Resurrection, — and is a copy by Cranke, of a painting by Rubens, at Antwerp." The Garden is on the right of the Chapel : the new buildings, on the opposite side comprise a bursary, common-room, and apartments for the tutors and students ; these are all well built, from admirably-arranged designs by Mr. Hayward, architect, of Exeter. Turning to the right on leaving Pembroke College, the magnificent pile of building imme diately opposite, is diner of Linton, Sir Robert Hanson of London, Sir John Wall, (sometime student and afterwards canon of Christ Church,) and rector of St. Aldate's Church, and Dr. Samuel Johnson. a This painting was presented to the society by Joseph Plymley, A.B., formerly a gentleman-commoner here. Mr. Plymley has taken the name of Corbett, and is now the venerable archdeacon of Salop. He has had three sons at Pembroke College ; in addition to the picture in the chapel he has presented to the college a portrait of Dr. Johnson, now in the master's lodgings, and one of Shenstone, which is in the common room. The late much-lamented regius pro fessor of divinity, Dr. Burton, married one of the archdeacon's daughters. CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE. 175 CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE. Founded in 1524, by Cardinal Wolsey. [The history of this princely establishment is far too impor tant to be passed over lightly, or without a due regard and reverence to its antiquity and historical connection, either with respect to its ecclesiastical or academical character; it having been a spot dedicated to learning and religion for more than eleven hundred years. Specimens of architecture belonging to almost every age, from the rude Saxon times to the mediaval periods, and thence to our own day, are here exhibited ; and the spot may undoubtedly be considered as forming the site of the first distinctive foundation of this ancient seat of learning, notwithstanding that Oxford had been used as a resort for students of the sterner races who inhabited England from the earliest conquest by the Romans. The history of the Cathedral of Christ Church is of some interest, as being the most ancient part of the structure. As a religious establishment it is to be traced to the Priory of St. Frideswide, of which an account is given in our Introduc tion (see p. xiv.). The Saxon King Ethelred was the next who enlarged the original dimensions of the church, in the year 1002 ; and from a passage by the historian of that period, (William of Malmesbury,1) we may conclude that a part at least of the present Tower was existing in the time of the same monarch. In the following century the Priory of St. Frides wide fell into the hands of some secular canons, and the nuns and other religious women were dispersed. These canons were also, in their turn, dispossessed for having violated their vow of celibacy. After this, the Priory became the property of a Norman monk, of austere character, named Guimond, or Wymund (chaplain to Henry I.), who applied himself more to the recovery of the lands and revenues than to any renova tion of the church. The fame of the patroness of Oxford having, in the mean time, spread far abroad, many devotees came hither and offered presents at her shrine, so considerable, a This writer distinctly states that the Danes, being repulsed in an attempt to revenge the death of two of their chiefs, fled for refuge into the Tower of St. Frideswide's Church; and whatever injury was then done, he states to have been in-' stantly repaired. 176 CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE. that the funds of the Priory were, from this circumstance alone, greatly increased. From this period many endowments were added, till at length, in 1524, it attracted the attention of Cardinal Wolsey, (then high in favour with Henry VIII.) ; and though other founders have been connected with Christ Church as a col legiate seminary, still no credit can be detracted from tbis eminent prelate, to whose master-mind and genius the benefits resulting from the foundation may be attributed. With the design of advancing the cause of religious and sound learning, he resolved to found a College, and taking advantage of his influence with the King, obtained from him the revenues of the smaller monasteries and priories, (for the suppression of which he had previously gained the consent of Pope Clement VIII.,) which amounted to a considerable sum. After these preliminaries, Wolsey, in 1525, obtained letters patent from the King, authorizing the erection of his College, which was to have been on a scale of magnificence far exceeding its present splendid compass. The foundation- stone was laid with much ceremony, at the south-eastern corner of the great Quadrangle, by Dr. Longland, bishop of Lincoln, who officiated for the Cardinal. The latter did not wait till the whole of his intended edifice was erected, but, having completed some lodgings sufficient for the pur pose, he settled on them a small portion of his foundation, adding to it, as opportunity permitted, scholars selected from other seminaries, and those who by their abilities were most likely to confer distinction on his new College. But before the completion of his design Wolsey lost the favour of his sovereign : the auspicious commencement was suspended ; and on the attainder of the Cardinal in 1529, the King took possession of the revenues, actual and prospective, in tended for the support of the contemplated establishment. To the credit of Wolsey be it said, that in the midst of all his troubles his anxiety for his new college was unabated; and one of his last petitions to the King was an urgent request that " His Majesty would suffer his College at Oxford to go on."1 Touched by this appeal from his former * A volume might easily be filled in sketching the life and .career of this renowned prelate; we must, therefore, leave the admirers of biographical literature to glean the informa tion from the various contemporaneous historians : the scope CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE. 177 favourite, and urged by the representations of the friends of religion and learning, Henry, in 1532, consented to restore, though not without considerable mutilations and changes, what had been the Cardinal's College ; and, transferring the credit of the measure to himself, became the founder of The College of King Henry the Eighth, which he dedicated to the Holy Trinity, the Virgin Mary, and St. Frideswide. But this arrangement was of short continuance : in 1546, Henry resolved to connect the See of Oxford (which he had previ ously founded, with several other new bishoprics, and it may be conjectured by way of reparation for the destruction of so many religious bodies,) with his lately endowed college. He accordingly procured a surrender of its site and possessions ; removed the see from Osney Abbey, where he had first settled it, to St. Frideswide's ; and then finally concluded the foun dation of an establishment, partly academical, partly cathedral, ever since known as Christ Church College. This edifice, it may safely be affirmed, has not its parallel in any portion of the world, of which we will now proceed to give a descrip tion.] Foundation — A Dean, 8 Canons, 8 Chaplains, 101 Students, an Organist, 8 Singing-Men, and 8 Choristers. The Mem bers not on the Foundation include — Noblemen, Gentlemen- Commoners, and Commoners. The number of Members on the College books is 957 ; of whom about 500 are Members of Convocation. Visitor— The Queen. *** Porter's Lodge — On the right of Gateway. Places worthy of inspection — Chapel, Hall, and Library. * „ * The Stranger should not fail to bestow some time in viewing the rare collection of Paintings in the Hall and of our volume will only permit us to remark, that Wolsey was a native of Ipswich in Suffolk, educated at Magdalene College, in this University, the follower and friend of Kings Henry VII. and VIII., and whose preferments were such as no other churchman could ever boast of possessing : for he was at various times, bishop of Lincoln, of Bath and Wells, of Durham, and of Winchester, as well as of Tournay in Flanders ; he became also archbishop of York, and finally archbishop of Canterbury, Lord High Chancellor of England, and a Cardinal of the Church of Rome. 178 CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE — GREAT TOM. Library; they include some of the finest works of all the great masters, in every school from the earliest periods to the present day. The list of Renowned Characters who were Members of this College includes the names of some of the greatest nobles, most eminent statesmen, and most distinguished persons of the past and present centuries : among them were — Dr. Fell, bishop of Oxford ; Dean Aldrich ; Atterbury, bishop of Rochester ; Dr. Robert South ; Lord Lyttleton ; William, earl of Mansfield ; Lord Bolingbroke ; Charles Boyle, earl of Orrery ; Villiers, duke of Buckingham ; Sir Philip Sidney ; Locke ; Camden ; Penn, the founder of Pennsylvania ; Ben Jonson ; Otway ; George Colman ; George Canning ; Sir R. Peel ; the Rev. E. B. Pusey, D.D., the present learned Regius Professor of Hebrew, and founder of the sectarian party named after him ; &c. The front of Christ Church College, extending 400 feet, with its turrets, bastions, and battle ments, has more the appearance of a castle than a seminary for learning. In the centre is a mag nificent octagonal gothic tower and gateway, commonly known as Tom Gate, from the cupola containing the great bell so named, which formerly belonged to Osney Abbey." Entering the College by this gateway, the visitor at once finds himself in the largest and most noble Quadrangle in a " Great Tom of Oxford" is 7 feet 1 inch in diameter; 5 feet 9 inches from the crown to the brim ; and 6 inches thick in the striking place : The clapper weighs 342 lbs. ; and the weight of the whole is 17,000 lbs. ; being more than double the weight of the Great Bell of St. Paul s Cathedral, in London. This Bell was recast in 1680 ; and though it has always been represented as one of the finest in England, (an illusion under which most Oxford men and every member of Christ Church has indulged in from 1680 to the present time,) yet it must be confessed that its tone is far from being musical, or even accurate ; the note is certainly not B flat, as intended. It is imperfect and inharmonious ; and, in the opinion of those CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE. 179 Oxford; and it at once proves the magnificent intention of Wolsey, that this formed a part of his original design, its dimensions being 264 feet by 261." It has a wide terrace-walk round it, and in the centre is a small reservoir and foun- tain.b Over the gateway, in the interior, is a statue of Queen Anne. The Quadrangle is occu pied by the lodgings of the dean and canons, who are the best judges in such matters, requires to be recast. The Bell is nevertheless, a great curiosity, and may be seen on application to the porter at Tom-Gate lodge. A custom prevails of tolling Tom 101 times (the number of members called Students, on the foundation at Christ Church,) at five minutes past nine every night : at this time the gates of all the Colleges are closed ; after when, every undergraduate who arrives, (or, as it is termed " knocks in,") is reported to the authorities of his particular college. a There can be Little doubt that the original design con templated a cloister entirely round the quadrangle, which would have extended partly within the present range of building, and partly on what now forms the terrace-walk : there is every appearance of the commencement of such a work. It is worthy of remark that during the time of the civil wars the most criminal destruction of this noble fabric was connived at, if not actually perpetrated, by those who then had possession of the college. In an account given by the dean and canons in 1670, they state, that not only had the entire revenues of the college been exhausted by the intruding dean and chapter, but that the whole of the north side of the great quadrangle was demolished, and the timbers actually sawed down from the walls and roof, and used for fire-wood, thus entailing upon their successors these expensive and substantial repairs, as well as the ripping-up and re-roofing of almost every part of the college. From this it will be seen that the date of the great quadrangle, as it now appears, is between the years 1660 to 1668. The tower was begun by Wolsey, and completed by Sir Christopher Wren in 1682. b The fountain (where was until lately a bronze statue of Mercury, the gift of Dr. John Radcliffe,) had formerly a large globe or sphere, from the top of which the water issued. This fountain was introduced in the year 1669, on a spot where it is said that a cross stood, dedicated to St. Frideswide, at which was a pulpit, whence Wicliffe and others boldly preached the gospel to surrounding multitudes. 180 CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE — ANATOMY SCHOOL. the Hall (on the right), and Apartments for other Members of the Society. In the left-hand further corner, adjoining the dean's lodgings, is a vaulted passage leading to Peckwater Quadrangle, having over it a Statue of Bishop Fell ; over the passage leading to the Hall, at the right-hand further corner of the square, is a Statue of Cardinal Wolsey. The passage in the centre of the right wing leads to the Common-Room, and to the Anatomy School. The Common-Room, under the Hall, was fitted up chiefly by means of a bequest of Dr. Busby, the learned and well-known Master of West minster School. It contains Portraits of the two Founders, and also of several Members of the Society. Among the engravings is a very fine one of Dr. Markham, archbishop of York, pre sented to the College by the executors of Mrs. Markham ; the latter received it from George IV., who had been one of the archbishop's pupils. The Anatomy School, or (as it is now called) i the Anatomical Theatre, is in the Chaplain's Quadrangle," and comprises a Museum, contain- a The Chaplains' Quadrangle, on the south of the Cathedral, presents an appearance of great antiquity ; and may be said to have belonged to the most remote portion of the foundation. The building on the north side was the original refectory of the Convent of St. Frideswide, and afterwards used as a library for the college ; but on the completion of the new library in Peckwater Quadrangle, it was converted into apartments for undergraduates, though it still retains its appellation of " the old library." Previous to its present appropriation, the appearance of the interior was that of a well-proportioned Gothic room, with a stone pulpit on the south side in a recess, (or oriole, oratoriolum, " a little pulpit,") which may still be traced on the outside of the buttresses. ^iuAc-aJ^Vetaa^i^^^ns/^M^. CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE — HALL. 181 ing every requisite for the study to which it is appropriated : an interesting collection of pre parations, illustrating human and comparative Anatomy, which are ranged round the room in neat glass cases ; and beautiful Wax Models of the Human Body, executed at Florence, and purchased from time to time by the Dean and Chapter of Christ Church, pursuant to the inten tions of the founder of the Schools." It is used by the Reader in Anatomy as a lecture-room ; and underneath are spacious apartments for carry ing on dissections. The approach to the Hall is truly beautiful and imposing ;b and cannot fail to strike every beholder with admiration. The vaulted stone roof is of exquisite fan-work, the groins in ti|e angles being splendidly carved, and the whole supported by a single light pillar 80 feet high. The stone staircase is very wide, and has a hand some balustrade, also of stone, on each side. On the left of the entrance to the Hall is the Buttery. a Till within a recent period the anatomical lectures were delivered in one of the apartments underneath the Ashmolean Museum, — now occupied by the professor of chemistry : but in the year 1750, Matthew Lee, D.M., of Christ Church, founded a Readership in Anatomy, and erected "the present building for the delivery of lectures within the precincts of the college. Dr. Lee's exertions have been energetically followed up by Dr. Kidd, the present Professor of Anatomy, who is also Regius Professor of Medicine, and Radcliffe Librarian. 6 It is evident that this was intended to form a tower ; but the plan being abandoned, the staircase and the lobby were added about 1640, and early in the present century altered as they now appear, under the superintendence of the late Mr. Wyatt. 182 CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE — HALL. Christ -Church Hall is of itself sufficient evidence of Wolsey's vast powers of conception, and architectural taste.. Its dimensions are 115 feet by 40, and 50 in height; the roof (having on it the date 1529,) is of richly carved oak, with very elegant pendants, and profusely decorated with nearly 300 armorial bearings of King Henry VIII. and Cardinal Wolsey. It may be safely asserted that there is not a more magnificent refectory in the kingdom, and it will certainly attract the attention of every visitor to the Uni versity. Here will be more particularly seen the ancient arrangement of the royal, the baronial, and the academical dining hall. The raised dais, or platform, at the upper end, for the monarch, db the peer, dean and canons, warden and senior fen'ows, as the case applied; the side tables for the officers of state, or the knights and gentlemen- at-arms, or the graduate members ; whilst to wards the bottom of the room were entertained the followers of the court, the retainers of the baron, or the juniors of the college. Two Gothic chimney-pieces are great ornaments to this room ; and the oriel window in the recess, on the south ern side, is greatly admired for its rich carving, and for the exquisite fretwork of its roof. At the upper end is a fine marble bust of George IV. on a pedestal." The most interesting feature of the 1 From the beauty of its structure and the royal accommo dation which it offered, the Hall of Christ Church has fre quently been the scene of interesting and splendid festivities ; and the Sovereign being the Visitor to this College, the Society has often been honoured with the presence of royalty, and the chief nobility of this and other countries. In the CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE — HALL. 183 Hall is the collection of original pictures, 120 in number, with which the walls are adorned : they are the portraits of dependent members only, or such as have been on the foundation of the Society, as deans, canons, and students. This will account for the absence of many of those who have been year 1533, Henry VLTI. was entertained here: during the reign of Edward VI. public declamations of the University were holden herein. On several occasions plays were ex hibited — before Queen Elizabeth in 1566, and again in 1592 ; before King James in 1605 and 1621 ; and before King Charles in 1636. Anthony a Wood particularly mentions that on this last occasion, the scenes, stage machinery, &c, were almost the first attempts of that kind made in England ; "to the end" he says, "that posterity might know that what is now seen in the play-houses at London belonging to his majesty and the duke of York, is originally due to the invention of Oxford scholars." But the most imposing spectacle ever presented in this room, (or in the whole University,) was in June 1814, after the capitulation of Paris, when the allied sovereigns honoured Oxford with their presence. The imposing grandeur of the scene, when they entered the city accompanied by the great est warriors and most renowned characters of the age, with their suites, can scarcely be imagined. The streets were crowded with the members of the University of every rank in their academical costumes, which formed a striking contrast to die accoutrements of the military, who were marshalled along the whole line of the procession : and the feelings of those who were assembled to witness the arrival of this array of com pany, were excited to the utmost, when, having been received at the boundary by the University and city authorities, they entered Oxford amid the acclamations of the serried ranks of the people, the ringing of the various chimes, and the roar of musketry. A public entertainment was then given in Christ Church Hall, to the Prince Regent, (afterwards George IV.,) H. R. H. the duke of York, Prince Metternich, Marshal Prince Blucher, and a large assemblage of foreigners of high dis tinction. Though the room was filled with men of rank and eminence, yet the greatest attention was directed to the veteran Blucher ; who, sensible of the feeling, rose and ad dressed the company in his native German language, which was immediately and eloquently translated into English by- the Prince Regent, omitting only (with that exquisite taste which distinguished him,) those parts which were compli mentary to himself. r2 184 CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE — HALL. illustrious as statesmen, warriors, divines, or men of letters, who were formerly educated at this College. The pictures include specimens of tbe most eminent artists from Holbein to the present President of the Royal Academy. Over the Entrance, (top row,) commencing on tlie left. Cox, Archbishop of Cashel. Dudley Carlton, Viscount Dor chester, by Vandyck. The third Duke of Portland, Chancellor of the University, by Romney. Henry Benet, Earl of Arling ton, by Lely. Gilbert, Archbishop of York. Right of the Entrance. Lord Stormont. Stone, Archbp. of Armagh. William Wyndham Grenville, D.C.L., Chancellor of the University, by Owen, a full- length portrait. Sir Gilbert Dolben. Dr. Euseby Cleaver, Archbp. of Dublin, by Romney. C. W. W. Wynn, D.C.L., and M.P., a Student, by Shee. Dr. William Jackson, Canon of Christ Church, and liishop of Oxford, by Owen. Dr. V. Short, Bishop of Sodor and Man, by Shee. Over the Door. The first Earl of Mansfield, by Martin. Left of the Entrance. SirArchibaldMacdonald,Chief Karon of the Exchequer, by Romney. Agar, Archbp . of D ublin & Earl of Normanton, by Romney. Richard, Marquis Wellesley, full-length by Bates. Lewis De Visme, a Student, by Raffaello Mengs. Robinson, Archbp. of Armagh and Baron Rokeby, by Rey nolds.* Bisset, Bishop of Raphoe, by Lawrence. Randolph, Bishop of London, by Owen. James, third Bishop of Cal cutta, by Faulkner. Left side of the Room. Murray, Bishop of Rochester, by Faulkner. Hon. Sir Charles Bagot, by Pickersgill. Dr. Coleridge, first Bishop of Barbadoes, by Phillips. Sir William Elias Taunton, one of the Justices of the King's Bench, by Briggs. Dolben, Archbishop of York, Hooper,' Bishop of Bath and Wells, by Hogarth. Benson, Bishop of Gloucester. a There is a traditionary anecdote that the Archbishop was strongly averse to sitting for his picture, and that Sir Joshua caught the likeness, when the Archbishop, looking round from his studies, may be supposed to be enquiring why he was interrupted for the purpose of introducing the painter. CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE HALL. 185 Cr. Grenville, a distinguished Statesman, by Romney. Dr. Stratford, Canon of Christ Church. Sir Jonathan Trelawney, Bart. D.D. , Bishop of Winchester, by Kneller. Drummond, Archbishop of York, by Hudson. Sir John Skynner, Knight, by Gainsborough. Moreton Bishop of Meath. Wake, Archbp. of Canterbury. Charles Boyle, Earl of Orrery. Smallwell, Bishop of Oxford, by Romney. Charles Abbot, D.C.L., Lord Colchester, by Northcote. Hon. E. V. Vernon, D.C.L., Archbishop of York, by Hoppner. Over the Wainscot, on the left side. Sir William Dolben, Bart., M.P. for the University. Sir John Dolben, Bart., Pre bendary of Durham. Sir J. English Dolben, Bart., by Perigal. Blackburne, Archbp. of York. Howson, Bishop of Durham. Godwin, Bishop of Hereford. Heton, Bishop of Ely. Westphaling, Bp. of Hereford. Bancroft, Bishop of Oxford. M. Smith, Bp. of Gloucester. Griffith, Bishop of St. Asaph. James, Dean & Bp. of Durham Piers, Dean and Archbishop of York. Ravis, Dean and Bishop of London. Left of the High Table. Markham, Dean & Archbishop of York, by Reynolds.1 Atterbury, Dean and Bishop of Rochester, by Kneller. Conybeare, Dean and Bishop of Bristol. Hall, Dean of Christ Church, by Newton. Samuel Fell, D.D., Dean of Christ Church. Upper end of the Room, left of the Window. Ellis, Bishop of Kildare. Right of the Window. Corbet, Dean and Bishop of Norwich, by Vandyck. Under these, commencing on the left. King, Dean and Bishop of London. Smalridge, Dean and Bishop of Bristol. John Fell, Dean and Bishop of Oxford. Cyril Jackson, D.D., Dean, by Owen. Cardinal Wolsey, by Holbein . Boulter, Archbp. of Armagh. King Henry VIII. by Holbein, centre portrait. Queen Elizabeth, by Zucchero Smith, Dean of Christ Church. Brian Duppa, Dean & Bishop of Winchester, by Van Loo. Bagot, D.C.L. , Dean & Bishop of St. Asaph, by Hoppner. a Sir Joshua Reynolds has in this picture successfully ventured on a light back-ground, notwithstanding the diffi culty always complained of by painters of the pictures of Bishops, from the quantity of white in the lawn sleeves. r3 186 CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE KITCHEN. Morley, Dean and Bishop of Winchester. Henry Aldrich, D.D., Dean. Bradshaw, Dean and Bishop of Bristol. Right oftlie Room. Richard Frewin, M.D. Nicoll, Canon of Christ Church in 1751, by Reynolds. George Canning, D.C.L., by Lawrence. William Courtenay, Earl of Devon, High Steward of this University. Carey, Bishop of St. Asaph, by Reynolds. Vansittart, Baron Bexley, by Owen. Goodenough, Bishop of Car lisle, by Northcote. Over the Fire-place. Dr. Fell, Dr. Dolben, and Dr. Allestree, three Divines who met for worship according to the Rites of the Church of England, when the Liturgy was prohibited by Parlia ment during' the great Re bellion. Right of the Fire-place. Moss, Bishop of Oxford, by Hoppner, junr. Eden, Baron Auckland, by Lawrence. The celebrated John Locke, by Kneller. John Freind, M.D. Busby, the celebrated Master of Westminster School. King, Bishop of Chichester. Welbore Ellis, Baron Mendip, by Gainsborough. Dr. Pett, Principal of St. Mary Hall, afterwards Canon of Christ Church. Dr. Longley, Bishop of Ripon. Sir T. Strange, by Sir M. Shee. Hon. William Pitt-Amhurst, Governor- General of India. Legge, Bishop of Oxford. Over the Wainscot on the right Pelling, Canon of Windsor. Dr. Thomas Burton, Canon. Alsop, Prebendary of Win chester. Robert Friend, D.D., Canon of Christ Church. Hickman, Bishop of London derry. Sanderson, Bishop of Lincoln. Este, Bishop of Waterford. Gastrell, Bishop of Chester. Wood, Bishop of Litchfield and Coventry. Spratt, Prebendary of West minster. Skinner, Student, Recorder of Oxford, & M.P. for the city. Godwin, Dean and Bishop of Bath and Wells. Matthew, Dean & Archbishop of York. Passing from the Hall by a flight of stairs on the right, we may bestow a few moments on the Kitchen, decidedly an object of curiosity, and worthy of attention as being the first building CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE — CHAPEL. 187 erected by Wolsey in his College :" it is extensive and lofty, and has not undergone any material alteration either in shape, size, or arrangement. Here is a large gridiron, measuring 4 feet 6 inches by 4 feet 1 inch, used prior to the introduction of ranges. Descending the steps adjoining the hall-stair case, and turning to the left, we arrive at the principal point' of attraction, viz., Christ Church Chapel, or Oxford Cathe dral,1' and this having undoubtedly formed a part of the original Church of St. Frideswide's Priory, must form an object of unequalled interest to the lover of architectural antiquity ;° and having men tioned its origin, we will commence our description * Wolsey being known to be a man who greatly regarded the creature comforts, (or, as Shakspere says, " a man of an unbounded stomach,") the circumstance of his having the Kitchen built first, gave occasion for some very caustic remarks by the wits of that day. b This building is shown by the Verger who resides in the adjoining cloister. c The original church suffered considerable mutilation from the hands of Wolsey. Intending doubtless to erect a new chapel worthy of his own foundation, and little regarding the ancient structure, the cardinal commenced his preparations for his college by pulling down fifty feet of the west end" of St. Frideswide's Church, and the whole western side of the cloister. The building, excepting the choir is undoubtedly Norman, having a spire in the centre, which, although not a part of the original design, is one of the earliest in the kingdom. The Church itself is cruciform. It would seem that Wolsey's plan was to preserve the choir and transepts, modernizing them in the style of the chapels of Magdalene or New College, and that he had in a great degree completed the choir and commenced the transepts, as may be seen by the end windows on each side of the north transept, and the unfinished state of several other parts, where the progress of the work had been interrupted by the Cardinal's disgrace, A.D. 1529. 188 CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE CHAPEL. with the portion thus founded, and more parti cularly deserving of notice — 'the Choir. The beautiful groined roof, with rich pendants (added by Wolsey,) and the peculiar arches, which are double — a lower arch springing from corbels at tached to the piers — are exceedingly splendid and magnificent. The massive Saxon pillars on each side, with their variously ornamented capitals, are grand in the extreme, and the arrangement excites great curiosity — there being a stone passage completely round three sides of the Choir, through small arches, amidst the pillars and other orna mental architecture. In this lofty situation were nine cells or apartments for the Nuns of St. Frideswide, where they spent much of their time in study and devotion. The Sacramental Plate is very ancient, having been found in the ruins of Osney Abbey." During the performance of Divine Service the scene is very imposing, the ' The Cathedral being divided into several portions, it will be as well, to avoid confusion, to describe the whole of the windows together : unfortunately, they are none of them quite perfect, the authorized destruction at the Reformation, and the wilful and wanton mischief perpetrated at the time of the Great Rebellion, having reduced what now remains to mere remnants of their former beauty ; nevertheless the admirers of painted glass will find some scattered pieces that will repay the search for them. Among these interesting fragments are some of the thirteenth century, if not earlier, as — " The Mur der of St. Thomas a. Becket ;" and " The Entrance of Christ into Jerusalem," in the large north window of the transept ; and in a window on the left, " The Story of Jonah." St. Augustine, St. Blaise, " St. Martin dividing his cloak with a beggar," the figures of St. Frideswide, St. Catharine, and others, are represented in the centre west window, which is chiefly composed of fragments of stained glass. The windows right and left represent " The Destruction of Sodom and Gomorrah," and" St. Peter released from Prison by an CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE — CHAPEL. 189 Choir being filled with over 200 members of the College. On the right of the entrance are the stalls for the Dean and some of the Canons ; on the left, those for the Sub-Dean and the remainder pf the Canons ; adjoining these, right arid left, are the seats of the Noblemen ; beyond which are those for the Masters and Bachelors of Arts and the Students ; and in the centre of the Choir are seats for the Commoners. Owing to the want of space, a small gallery above, on each side, is used by the singing-men and choristers. The Organ is a splendidly-toned instrument. Adjoining the Choir, the Dormitory will be found next in point of interest to the antiquary. The Screens both to this and the Latin Chapel, which is parallel to it, are exceedingly beautiful, and of the time of the College. The Dormitory is so called from being the resting-place of so many Angel," painted in 1700, by Isaac Oliver when 84 years of age ; besides the principal figures, there are a number of Roman Soldiers sleeping in various attitudes. In the south aisle of the Chancel — called Bishop King's Aisle, on ac count of containing his tomb — is a portrait of the Bishop, who is represented in his Episcopal Robes, with his mitre on his head, a crozier in his hand, and the ruins of Osney Abbey, (of which he was last abbot,) in the back ground : this window was taken down and preserved by one of the Bishop's family, during the usurpation, in 1648, and put up again at the Restoration in 1660. " The Heads of Henry VHI. and Wolsey," are contained in the tracery of the east window of the Choir; and in the lower part of the same window, " The Nativity," painted by Sir James Thornhill, and altered from a design by Raffaelle, strangely mixing the Nativity with the Epiphany. In the east window of the Lady Chapel, usually called the Latin Chapel, is represented " Christ,, when only twelve years of age, disputing with the Doctors in the Temple," and in the Dormitory a " Crucifixion" is represented in the letters "I H C," and the blessed Virgin, surrounded by a glory or aureole, contained in the letter M. 190 CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE CHAPEL. Characters connected with the College, whose tombs are here situated. The principal of these divide this part from the Latin Chapel : on the first lies a man in complete armour, his head resting on an ox, and at his feet a dog ; this figure is said to represent Sir Henry de Bathe, Justiciary of England, who died in 1252 : the second is supposed to be the tomb of Prior Guimond, or Wymund, architect of a portion of the building, who died in 1149 : the third, Lady Elizabeth Montacute, (wife of Baron Montacute, ancestor of the Montacutes, earls of Salisbury,) a great benefactress to the Priory of St. Frideswide," who died in 1353 : and the fourth and principal one is the tomb of the celebrated foundress of that Priory, who died in 740 ; her remains were moved from spot to spot in the church, (for as the renown of the place increased, so did the residents desire to do greater honour to its foundress,) till they were finally fixed here, under this tomb, in the fifteenth century. Over the tomb is a beautiful Gothic shrine, in which is a small room ; the ascent to this is by stone steps that are now greatly worn from the many strangers who have repaired hither to make their offerings upon the altar of the pious patroness, which was fixed against the eastern pillar. There have been various conjectures as to the date of this splendid work of art, which was the third and last shrine a Lady Montacute, in addition to that portion of the Cathe dral called the Latin Chapel, gave to St. Frideswide's the, meadows known as Christ Church Walks. CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE — CHAPEL. 191 dedicated to St. Frideswide ; but it has been finally fixed to have been executed about the year 1480. Parallel to the Dormitory is the Latin Chapel," which will prove an interesting feature to the enquiring visitor. It was built at the expense of Lady Elizabeth Montacute, before mentioned, about the year 1320 ; and most of the carving is undoubtedly of a very early period : the floor is also very ancient. The appearance of the Nave of this Cathedral is remarkably grand. On certain days the Uni versity sermons are preached here. The seat appropriated for the Vice-Chancellor was brought from Osney Abbey, as was the pulpit which faces it; they are both of oak, richly carved, par ticularly the pulpit, which is supported by a small ornamented oak pillar, and surmounted by a handsome carved canopy, on which is the figure of a pelican. The heraldry of this church, in particular, is interesting and curious, — from the blazonry of Montacute, Monthermer, Montford, and Courtney, to the pen-case and ink-horn of Zouch, in the north aisle of the transept. The monuments here are exceedingly beautiful : some of them are to the memory of distinguished persons who died during the time that Charles I. held his court at Christ Church. A curious monument to the celebrated Robert Burton, author of the Anatomy of Melancholy, has on it his bust, a calculation of his nativity, and the • The Latin Chapel has its name from the Latin Service being read in it. 192 CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE CHAPEL. following inscription written by himself, and placed here by his brother, the Leicester Anti quary. " Paucis notus, paucioribus ignotus, hie jacet Democritus Junior, cui vitam dedit et mor tem, Melancholia. Obiit vm. Id. Jan. a. c m.dcxxxix." (Known to few, unknown to less, here lies Democritus Junior, to whom Melancholy imparted both Life and Death. Died, the 8th day of January, in the year of Christ, 1639.) In the west transept is a majestic marble statue of the ven erable Dr. Cyril Jackson, dean of the College from 1783 to 1809; he is represented in his academics, and seated: this was executed by Sir Francis Chantrey, and will hand down the fame and name of that admirable sculptor to succeeding genera tions. Besides the numerous ancient monuments there are many of a modern date, and some of comparatively recent erection. The inscriptions alone which are in this chapel furnish a regular obituary of the College, and are so ample and numerous, that they constitute no inconsiderable portion of British biography. It is greatly to be regretted that both the monuments and windows in this Cathedral received such injurious treat ment during the usurpation." In the south 1 It is lamentable to reflect that in laying down the pave ment of the choir and side aisles, at the erection of the college, all the old gravestones and marble monuments were obliged to be removed : most of these, according to Anthony a Wood, "had Saxon inscriptions on them ; which being looked upon by the dean and canons as old superfluous stuff, and unhandsome to be mixed with their new pavement, they did cause them to be thrown out of the church, as also those out of the cloister, when that was new paved, being accounted then by some persons a piece of impiety." Another writer endeavours to reconcile us to this act of sacrilege, by inti- CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE CHAPEL. 193 transept is a very beautiful decorated window, evidently not a part of the original design, and even carried into execution by the destruction of a portion of the original Norman wall of the transept. At the foot of an angular buttress, on the exterior of this transept, situate in the Verger's Garden, is an extraordinary piece of ancient sculp ture, recently discovered on the removal of a quan tity of rubbish from the foundation of the walls. It was doubtlessly placed here for the purpose of preserving it, being covered with earth and rub bish, to prevent the discovery and destruction of it by the puritanical zealots. As it is built into the wall, and presents to view only three sides, it is difficult to express an opinion as to its original use; some persons have supposed it to be the ancient Font of St. Frideswide's church, (which was parochial as well as conventual, till the changes introduced by Wolsey,) but as many beautiful specimens of the Fonts of that day have been preserved in Oxford, there could have been no reason for concealment in this case. Dr. Ingram, (president of Trinity College,) the talented author of the " Memorials of Oxford," supposes it to be the celebrated altar or reliquary of St. Frideswide, in which her bones, real or supposed, mating that these monuments were few in number, • about eighteen or nineteen, and that they were safely deposited in the aisles on each side of the choir ; but admits that, with the exception of two only, they are all " robbed of their brasses." These brasses, together with the inscriptions and crosses on the more ancient slabs of maible and freestone, would have contributed more to illustrate the history of the ancient priory than all the publications of our most celebrated antiquaries. S 194 CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE — CHAPEL. were enshrined on the day of their translation, in 1180, from the "obscure" position which they previously occupied, to a more splendid receptacle. CURIOUS SCULPTURE IN THE VERGER S GARDEN J SUPPOSED TO BE THE ALTAR OF ST. FRIDESWIDE. Two of the subjects are very evident : — The Temptation and Fall of our First Parents; and the Sacrifice of Isaac, the type of the salvation of the human race : but the subject of the third compartment is involved in some obscurity and has been variously explained ; the most rational sup position is that it indicates the final judgment of the world, when the blessed shall be placed on the right hand, and hear the joyful sentence, whilst the wicked shall be dismissed on the left, to reap the fruits of their misdeeds in the com pany of the devil and his angels : perhaps some future antiquary may discover a legend in St. Frideswide's history, which may give it a different signification. Dr. Ingram concludes his descrip tion of the Altar as follows : — " The three com- CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE CLOISTERS. 195 partments, thus combined, constitute the whole scheme of the Christian Dispensation — the fall and the condemnation of man, with his redemp tion through the mediatorial sacrifice of Christ. This explanation may satisfy us that the fourth side contained no sculpture, but was originally intended to be placed against a wall or a pillar, as usual in the case of small altars or relics, though the principal altar was detached. The contending principles of good and evil are repre sented, after the ancient manner, by two winged serpents, or dragons, whose heads meet at the base, whilst their bodies take a sweep round the angles of the altar, and their tails are enveloped in the foliage above." The Chapel is 154 feet from east to west : the width of the nave and side aisles is 54 feet ; the nave was almost double its present length, 50 feet of the west end having been pulled down by Cardinal Wolsey to form lodgings for the canons : the transept is 102 feet from north to south : the height of the choir is 37 J feet, and of the western front, 41 \ feet: the steeple is 144 feet high. The tower contains ten good bells which were brought from Osney Abbey. *** Service is performed in the Choir of the Cathedral, at ten o'clock in the morning, and four in the afternoon ; and in the Nave, on Good Friday, Ascension Day, Christmas Day, and when, in their turn, the Dean or either of the Canons preach the University Sermon. In the Cloisters will be seen the different dates of the erection, by the separate styles of architec ture : the Early Norman portion, built of rubble- s2 196 CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE — CHAPTER-HOUSE. work, with small semi-circular windows, plainly distinguishing the first from the second, or addi tional erection. From this point will also be seen the beautiful Saxon doorway (with a Saxon window on each side of it, and placed in the mas sive wall,) leading to The Chapter-House, a noble room, built about the 13th century, and a beautiful specimen of early English architecture. It contains a few good Portraits ; two of them are said to have belonged to king Henry VIII.; one representing Frederic the Wise, duke of Saxony, and the other, Philip, archduke of Austria. On the right of the entrance is the original foundation-stone of Wolsey's College at Ipswich, bearing an inscrip tion : it was bequeathed to the dean and chapter by the Rev. R. Canning, who rescued it from destruction. Leaving the Chapter House, we pass through the cloisters to the justly celebrated Walks be longing to the College, and denominated Christ Church Meadow, a considerable part of which was the gift of Lady Montacute, whose tomb we have previously described. The Walks were first made by Cardinal Wolsey, partly with earth and rubbish removed from the ruins of the monastery, and partly with chips of stone from the carving of the Choir of the Chapel. The Walk nearest the College was composed of the latter material, and hence obtained the name of " the white walk," soon corrupted into " the wide walk" ; it was also known as " the long walk," and is now commonly designated " the broad walk :" at a later period CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE — PECKWATER. 197 it was raised higher by Bishop Fell, (who is said to have planted the noble avenue of trees,) with the rubbish brought from the north side of the great quadrangle ; and once more by Dean Aldrich, with the rubbish of Peckwater Quad rangle. The walk is quite straight, a quarter of a mile in length, and of considerable width" ; — on each side are the stupendous elm trees above men tioned, which, arching at the top, form an arcade. One of the walks describes a circuit, and forms the bank of the rivers Cherwell and Isis ; the views from this spot are very picturesque, and the whole Walks form delightful promenades during the summer months. On the river Isis a variety of pleasure-boats is kept, for excursions to the numerous sylvan retreats adjacent to Oxford. Returning through the Cloisters and the great Quadrangle, adjoining the Dean's lodgings, is a vaulted passage by which the Visitor enters Peckwater Quadrangle, so called from an ancient Inn or Hall,b belonging to a person of that name, * In connection with this walk, a very peculiar custom prevails, the foundation of which is unknown. It is an Exhibition of the People on the Sunday previous to the Com memoration, hence styled " Show Sunday." On that occasion the Walk is frequented by nearly all the Members of the University, with their friends, and the numerous strangers who usually visit Oxford at this period, together with many of the townspeople. The gay dresses of the ladies and the sable academics of the collegians, form a tout ensemble, at once peculiarly brilliant and strikingly attractive. h Peckwater's Inn stood at the south-west corner of the present square, where two canons' lodgings have been built. As the canons' lodgings are sometimes described as belonging to a stall of a certain number, the following is given as the situation in which each canon is placed in succession by the royal grant : first stall — north-western angle of the great s3 198 CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE LIBRARY. afterwards given to the monks of St. Frideswide, and subsequently by Henry VIII. to the college. The present structure, of which three sides are uniform, (Ionic,) was erected in 1705, from a design, and under the superintendence of Dean Aldrich ; it is a fine example of Palladian archi tecture. Towards the erection of this quadrangle, Dr. Anthony Radcliffe, who had been a canon of the college, bequeathed £3000, and the re mainder was defrayed by subscription. It com prises nearly eighty sets of rooms for the members, the canon's house of the seventh stall, and, on the south side, The Library, — a noble edifice, commenced in 1716, but not finished till 1761; this stands de tached from any other building, and presents a very handsome elevation." It extends 161 feet, and is quadrangle ; second — in the cloisters contiguous to the chap ter-house, (this was formerly the residence of the Prior of St. Frideswide,) ; third — on the left, passing from the great quadrangle to Peckwater, opposite the western end of the library ; fourth — in the middle of the eastern side of the great quadrangle, between the deanery and the professor of Divinity's lodgings ; fifth — on the same side, next to the hall, always appropriated to the regius professor of Divinity ; sixth — south-western angle, appropriated to the regius professor of Hebrew ; seventh — south-western angle of Peckwater ; and eighth — north side of the great quadrangle, next to the deanery. a The Library was originally designed to have an open piazza below ; but, as the literary treasures to be deposited here required more space than this plan had contemplated, the lower part was enclosed, and fitted up to contain a portion of the books, and also a collection of paintings bequeathed to the college by Brigadier-General Guise, in the year 1765. To this collection of pictures, a valuable addition was made in 1828, by a gift from the Hon. W. T. H. Fox-Strangways, of _ several original specimens of the early masters, before painting in oils was introduced, as Cimabue, Giotto de Bon- CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE LIBRARY. 199 supported by three-quarter Corinthian columns, of great height and diameter. The whole of the ground-floor comprises a Picture- Gallery, to which we must, in the strongest terms, direct the Visi tor's attention ; it well deserves more time than is generally allowed for its inspection, as containing a superb collection of some of the rarest and most valuable paintings ever witnessed; they are al most all of the celebrated Italian Schools, arranged chronologically from Cimabue to the Caraccis, ending with a few from Holbein, Jansens, and Vandyke. There are also some good busts, of which, with the paintings, the following is a catalogue" : — Busts in the lobby : — Lewis Bagot, D.C.L. Dean, Bp. of St. Asaph, by Chantrey. General Guise, donor of the Pictures, by Bacon, sen. Dr. Busby, by Rysbrack. Richard Trevor, D.D. Bishop of Durham, by Bacon, sen. W. Markham, D.C.L., Dean, Archbp.York, by Bacon, jun. George I., by Rysbrack. PAINTINGS, &c Right hand room, commencing at the entrance George II., by Rysbrack. George III., by Bacon, sen. R. Robinson, D.D. Archbishop of Armagh, by Bacon. Hugh Boulter, D.D., Arch bishop of Armagh. R. Freind, M.D., by Rysbrack. R. Frewin.M.D . , by Roubillac. Dr. Edward Burton, Canon, by Chantrey. 1 Portrait of General Guise, by Reynolds. 2 Portrait of Henry VIH. by Holbein. 3 Portrait of Cardinal Wol sey, by Holbein. 4 Portrait, by Titian. 5 Portrait, by Tintoretto. 6 Portrait of a Woman with a Guitar. 7 An Ecce Homo, by Baroc- cio done, and others ; and one specimen of the first Italian who painted in oils, Andrea de Castagno, — masters, whose remain ing works are extremely rare, and particularly valuable, as illus trating the Rise and Progress of the Art. The fine large painting by Vandyke, representing the Continence of Scipio, was pre sented to the college by Lord Frederick Campbell, in 1809. a Much doubt, may however, be excited as to whether many of the artists' names may not have been inserted in the original catalogue from conjecture only. 200 CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE — LIBRARY. 8 Diana and Actason, by Titian. 9 A Head. 10 Marriage of St. Katharine, by Paul Veronese. 1 1 Same Subj ect, by the same. 12 Madonna and Child with St. John, by G. Bellini. 13 The Triumph of Cupid, by Domenichrno. 14 Two Boys with a Dog and a Goat, by Old Bassano. 15 Venus and Adonis, by Paul Veronese. 16 The Entombing the Holy Body, by G. di Bassano. 17 Pan, by Giorgione. 18 Madonna and Child, by U Pordenone. 19 Madonna with St. John. 20 A Choir of Angels, by Guido. 21 Half-length of St. Katha rine, by Pietro della Vite. 22 A Female Head. 23 Christ on the Mount, and his Disciples asleep, by Bassano. 24 Nativity, by the same. 25 Christ with the Two Dis ciples at Emmaus, by Laz- zarini. 26 Martyrdom of St. Laurence, by Tintoretto. 27 Miracle of St. Mark by the same. 28 Last Supper, by the same. 29 Titian's Mistress.byTitian. 30 Four portraits with a Book of Music, by the same. 31 The Virgin, St. Peter, St. Francis, and a Venetian General offering a Stand ard taken from the Turks. 32 Christ, half-length, Titian. 33 A Nativity, by the same. 34 Portrait of the Duke of Alva, by Titian. 35 Madonna and Child, with St. John, by Titian. 36 Holy Family, by the same. 37 Christ Tempted, from the School of Titian. 38 Portrait of a Venetian Nobleman, by the same. 39 A Head by the same. 40 A Sudarium, or Veronica, being a supposed repre sentation of the Face of Christ on a Handkerchief, by the same. 41 A Female Head by the same. 42 A Nativity on a large scale, by Bassano. 43 Christ crowned with thorns by the same. 44 A Nativity, by B. Bassano, or Giorgione. 45 Small Head, B. Bassano. 46 King Solomon and the Queen of Sheba, by P. Veronese. 47 Sketch of a Cupola, after Corregio. 48 The Circumcision, Corregio 49 A small Madonna & Child. 50 Christ crowned with thorns 51 Hercules and Omphale, from the Venetian School. Second compartment : — 52 Rebecca at the Well, and Abraham's Servant pre senting the Bracelets, by Guido. 53 Apollo Flaying Marsyas, by Andrea Sacchi. 54 Female with a Dove, repre senting simplicity, by F. Fiorino. 65 Cleopatra, by Guido. 66 Christ in his youth, with a representation of his fu ture sufferings, F. Albani. 57 Head of St. John, by Guido 58 A Youth playing on a Violin. 59 St. Sebastian, a copy from Guido. CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE — LIBRARY. 201 60 Two Children, called Holy Love, conquering Profane Love, by Guido, said to be one of the best speci mens of his first manner. 61 The Rape of Europa, a drawing for a fan mount, bv Guido. 62 A 'small Madonna & Child. 63 A small Sketch. 64 Hagar and Ishmael, by F. Mola. 65 Cleopatra. 66 Madonna & two Children. 67 Sketch 68 Ditto 69 The Assumption of the Virgin, (a sketch) . 70 The Assumption of the Virgin, by F. Naldini. 71 Assembly of the Gods, (sketchpainted on paper) . 72 A Head of Christ. 73 Madonna and Child, by L. da Vinci. 74 St. Elizabeth with St. John musing upon a Cross made of Reeds, by the same. 75 A small Sketch. 76 Ditto. 77 Two Figures, (a sketch,) 78 A small Head. 79 Descent from the Cross, a copy from D. da Volterra. 80 Christ bearing the Cross, by A. de Mantegna. 81 Madonna and Child, by L. da Vinci. S2 A small Head (a fragment) by the same. 83 Ditto, bv the same. 84 The Martyrdom of St. Erasmus, from N. Poussin 85—89 Five Figures, by Par- megiano. 90 A Bacchanalian Piece, with Silenus. 91 Holy Family, by Parme- giano. 92 Marriage of St. Katharine, after Corregio. 93 Madonna with a Rabbit, after a well-known pic ture at Naples, by Cor regio. 94, 95, 96 Three Heads, the Virgin, Child, 8s Joseph. 97 A Nativity, after the well- known picture called the " Notte," by Corregio, in the Gallery at Dresden. This copy is by C. Cig- nani. 98 Descent from the Cross, by Corregio. 99 Cupid making his Bow, by Parmegiano. 100 Death of Sophonisba, by Domenichino. 101 St. Jerome praying, by the same. 102 A Dying Magdalene, by the same. 103 The Last Communion of St. Jerome, by the same. 104 The Meeting of the Em peror Otho and St. Nilo, (a sketch) by the same. 105 The Building of the Church at Grotta Feratta, (a sketch) by the same. 106 Susannah and the Elders, after Domenichino. 107 The Heads of Cherubs, the same. 108 Head of Diana, the same. Third compartment :- 109 Figures of Sybils, by A. Botieelli. 110 The same subject, by the same. the 111 A Nativity, from French School. 112 A Dead Christ supported by the three Mary's, by Raffaellino del Garbo. 202 CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE — LIBRARY. 113 Angels playing on Musi cal Instruments. A very curious specimen of the Finger-Organ of the time, called a Regal, by Giottino or Gaddi. 114 A Figure of a Saint with a Book, by Granacei. 115 Holy Family, by Duccio de fioninsegna. 116 Solomon and the Queen of Sheba, from the Vene tian School. 117 Madonna and Child, by Cimabue. 118 Madonna and Child. 119 A Nativity and an As cension, by Alissio Ban- doretti. 120 Madonna and Child, by Giotto de Bondone. 121 A small Madonna & Child. 122 Madonna and Child, by T. Gaddi. 123 A small Figure of Christ after the Resurrection, by Andrea di Castagno, first Italian Painter in Oil Colours. 124 HolyPamily.byF.Francia 125 Holy Family, by P. Lippi. 126 Madonna and Child, by M. de Panicale. 127 St. George & the Dragon, by a Greek Painter. 128 A Saint with a Book, by G. de Bondone. 129 Two Heads, by A Man- tegna. 130 Miracle of the Wheel. Legend of St. Katharine. 131 Madonna and Child, very ancient. 132 A Picture from the Chap ter House. A Miser, &c. 133 Rape of the Sabines, (sketch.) 134 Christ in the Temple, by P. Perugino. 135 A small Landscape. 136 Jupiter, Neptune, Cybele, Juno, by G. Romano. 137 Madonna and Child, with St. John, by Paduanino 141 The Resurrection of Christ 142 The Infants Jesus and St, John, by Raphael. 143 Portrait of Baldasso Cas- tiglione, after Raphael. 144 An Emperor on Horse back, by G. Romano. 145 The Vision of Constantine from Raphael, by the same. 146 A Nativity, from the Royal Collection of King Charles I., by Raphael. 147 The Sybils, an original drawing, by Raphael. 148 Christ appearing in the Garden, by P. Perugino. 149 Jupiter and Juno, from Raphael. 150 Madonna and Child, the same. 151 A Sketch after the man ner of Raphael. 152 Madonna and Child, original at Naples, from Raphael. 153 The Gathering the Manna (a sketch), the same. 154 Madonna and Child, by Raphael, in his first man ner. 155 The Transfiguration, a small copy from Raphael. 156 Head of a Female weep ing, fragment of a Cartoon by Raphael. 160 Sketch of a Man on Horseback, by Vandyke. 161, 162, 163 Three Sketches, by Volteranno. 164 Scipio presenting the Spanish Princess to her Husband, by Vandyke. 165 Philosophers with a Globe, (a sketch), by old Palma. CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE — LIBRARY. 203 166 Ditto (a sketch), by Vandyke. 167 A Boy's Head, (a Sketch) by Vandyke. 168 A Head, by Rubens. 169 A smallPicture of Soldiers and Women. 170 Judgment of Solomon, by P. Romano. 171 Interior of St. Peter's Church at Rome, by P. Pannini. 172 Diana and Nymphs, and Actseon, by P.Veronese. Room, left of the entrance : first compartment : 173 TheGeneralResurrection, called a Venetian Picture of good character. 174 Lot and his Daughters, by Caravaggio. 175 Representation of the Iron Age, by P. de Cortona. 176 A Temple of Diana at the time of Sacrifice, by P. de Cortona. 177 St. Katharine, by Salviati. 178 The Brazen Age, by P. de Cortona. 179 The Virgin contemplating the Child. 180 Cleopatra, by Salviati. 181 Judith with the Head of Holofernes, by the same. 182 Two Female Figures; a Lady and her Servant, by Mutiano. 183 A Piece of Architecture, by T. Ghisolfo. 184 The Prodigal Son Re turned, by Guercino. 185 Christ Crowned with Thorns, by the same. 186 A Head of St. John, with a Lamb, by the same. 187 A Prince-Bishop writing. 188 Spanish Figures, by A. A. Fernandez. 189 A Nativity, by B. Peruzzi. 190 Medusa's Head with Snakes, by Rubens. 191 Diana and Nymphs, and Acteeon, by C. Maratta. 192 Judith with the Head of Holofernes, by H. Galan- tini. 193 Madonna and Child, and St. John, by A. del Sarto. 194 A Female, half-length, by the same. 195 Day of Judgment, by F. de Bassano. 196 Slaughter of the Innocents and Herod on a Throne, by Jac. Borgognone. 197 The Prodigal Son received by his Father. 198 A small Head, over the window. 199 TheGeneralResurrection, (a sketch) by Young Pal- ma 200 A Nativity, after Corregio, by Cavedone. 201 Two Spanish Heads, by Murillo. 202 A Landscape withFigures, representing the Country about Bologna, by Geo. FrancescoGrimaldi, called II Bolognes. He was a Scholar of Annibal Caracci. 203 A Landscape, in which are Figures representing the Murder of St. Pietro Martire. Figures by A. Caracci. Landscape by G. Caracci. 204 ALandscapebyG.Caracci 205 A Battle Piece, by J. Bor gognone. 206 ALandscapebyG.Caracci 207 ALandscape, withFigures representing Moses deli vering the Daughters of Reul, Priest of Midian, from the Shepherds, by Domenichino. 204 CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE LIBRARY. 208 Landscape, with St. John Preaching in the Wilder ness, by G. Caracci. 209 Landscape with Figures ; Fishermen and Women Washing,byDomenichino Second compartment, left of entrance : — 210 Apollo 8s Marsyas, Midas sitting in Judgment, by A. Sehiavone.- 211 St.PaulrebukingSt.Peter by A. Sacchi. 212 A Nativity, by F. Zucca- relli. 213 The Taking- down from the Cross, by Old Palma. 214 A Nativity, copy from the younger Palma. 215 Christ bearing the Cross, by F. Vanni. 216 A Head of a Philosopher, said to be painted by Sal vator Rosa, while at Flo rence. 217 Diogenes, by F. Mola. 218 The Story of Ericthonius, by Salvator Rosa. 219 A Sketch, by the same. 220 Tobias taking the Fish, by the same. 221 A Sketch, doubtful from the same. 222 St Peter, by M. A. Cara- vaggio. 223 A Figure representing the Art of Painting, by Spa- gnoletto. 224 A Portrait, holding a Letter, by the same. 225 St. Peter, by the same. 226 A Sporting Party with Hawks andDogs, by Bam- boccio. 227 Clowns Dancing, and Cattle, by the same. 228 A Nativity by Del Vaga. 229 AParty Playing at Bowls, by D. Battaglia. 230 A Mountebank on Horse back, drawing a Clown's Tooth, by D. Battaglia. 231 Preparing the Holy Body for the Tomb, by A. del Sarto. 232 Faith Girding a Sword on a General, by P. del Vaga. 233 St. Jerome Reading, by Spagnoletto. 234 Two Heads, by the same. 235 A Portrait in Robes with Ermine, by F. Torbido. 236 Portrait of a Lady. 237 Portrait, by Riley. 238 Portrait of Pietro Fran cesco Mola, by himself. 239 Portrait of Vandyke. Sketch by himself. 240 Head, by F. Zucchero. 241 Head, by A. Jansens. 242 Portrait of Charles I. 243 Portrait ofthe First Prince of Orange. 244 Frederic, Duke of Saxony, by Holbein. 245 Philip, Archduke of Austria, by the same. 246 Portrait of an English Nobleman, with the St. George, or Jewel of the Order ofthe Garter. 247 Head, by Holbein. 248 A Father and two Sons Praying, by the same. 249 A Head, by the same. 250 A Head, by the same. Third compartment, right of entrance 251 Two Heads. A Study, by A Sacchi. 252 Architecture, by Viviani. 253 St. Christopher, by M. A. Buonarotti. 254 A Nativity. CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE LIBRARY. 205 255 Ditto 266 The Flight into Egypt, by Lanfranco. 257 Christ and Two Disciples atEmmaus, by L. Caracci. 258 The Assumption of the Virgin, with a View ofthe City of Bologna, by A. Caracci. 259 A Butcher's Shop, by the same.1 260 Italian Buffoon Drinking, by the same. 261 A Dead Christ foreshort ened, by L. Caracci. 262 St. Francis in a Vision, supported by Angels, by A. Caracci. 263 Holy Family, by the same. 264 Octagonal Picture, on black marble, by the same. 265 Head of Christ, by the same. 266 The Good Samaritan, by S.. Badolocchi. 267 The Conveying Christ to the Tomb. 268 Head. 269 Head. 270 Head. 271 A Picture for an Altar- piece, by Spagnoletto. 272 A Master and his Scholar, by G. Douw. 273 A Landscape, by P. F. Mola. 274 The Last Supper, a sketch, by P. Mola. 275 A Landscape, bythesame. 276 Large Picture of Susannah and the Elders, by A, Caracci. 277 Nymph Bathing, on cop per, by D. Arpino. 278 Adam and EveDriven from Paradise, by the same. 279 A Martyrdom, (a sketch,) by Vandyke. 280 Diana and Nymphs (a sketch,) byN. del Abbate. 281 Raising of Lazarus. 282 A Pilgrim, half-length. 283 Holy Family, by B. Sche- done, a scholar of the Caracci. 284 Marriage of St. Katharine, by the same. 285 The Entombing of Christ, by the same. 286 The Burning of Troy, by B. Van Orlay. 287 Portrait of Maria Robusti, by P. Bourdon. 288 David and Goliah, (a study,) by M. A. Buona- rotti. 289 A Small Figure of Christ bound. 290 A Nativity, by a Scholar of Pietro Cortona, of the Roman School, C. Ferri. 291 Cattle Driven off, and a distant Fire : of the Ge noese School, by G. Cas- tiglione. 292 Subject unknown, by the same. 293 Christ Driving the Cattle out of the Temple, by the same. 294 A Nativity, by C. Ferri. 295 A Figure representing Ceres. A Catalogue ofthe Pictures may be had ofthe Porter. a The arfist has, in this picture, most successfully pourtrayed the features of all the members of his family, in the garb of butchers, to check the conceit of his mother who was exces sively proud of her sons. 206 CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE LIBRARY. A whole-length marble statue of Locke, by Roubillac, is on the elegant staircase leading to the upper room : from here we have a good view of the buildings of the College, through a window opposite the landing. This elegant apartment is 142 feet long, by 30 broad, and 37 high, and is richly ornamented with stucco on the ceiling and walls; the festoons on the latter are particularly graceful. It contains a valuable collection of books in every department of literature, bequeathed by various benefactors. Archbishop Wake, in 1737, left to the Society his library of many thousand printed volumes, a collection of MSS., (among which are some Greek MSS. of the New Testament,) numerous volumes of letters, &c, and a cabinet of coins and medals.a Dr. Philip Barton, canon, left by will, in 1765, his collection of British, Anglo-Saxon, and English Coins, including some valuable and rare specimens : and Dr. Brown, regius professor of Hebrew, in 1780 bequeathed a collection of Arabic Coins, among which are complete sets, both in gold and * It must be remembered to Ms honour, that the first person who exerted himself towards obtaining an adequate supply of books for the use of this Society was Otho Nicholson, the same generous person who conferred so signal a benefit on the City, by erecting the curious Conduit which once stood at Carfax, (but now adorning the pleasure-grounds of Nuneham, ) and used for the supply of spring water, obtained from Hinksey Hill. In Christ Church old Library (formerly a Chapel), near the stone pulpit, is a small monument, containing an Inscrip tion well worthy the inspection of a curious eye ; the year of Our Lord being so promiscuously placed by capital letters, as to make up the date above in gold letters, over which is a coat-of-arms, being the same as that placed on each side ofthe Conduit. CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE — LIBRARY. 207 silver, of the celebrated " Zodiac Coins," of Hindostan." The arrangement of the interior of this magni ficent apartment is both handsome and appro priate. Besides the books, coins, and paintings, the Library contains (in a recess,) a whole-length marble figure, of Grecian work, representing a woman and boy, of great elegance, which was dug up near the town of Pella, in Macedonia, and was presented in 1805, by A. Mackenzie, student : also, a bronze bust of Marcus Modius, a Greek physician, presented by Lord Frederick Campbell : and, in the window-places, marble busts of Seneca, Nero, Ceres, and Cicero. On no occasion did this room present a more imposing appearance than when, in 1814, the Allied Sovereigns, with about nine hundred of the elite of the Nobility and Gentry, partook of a breakfast in it ; and afterwards the Prince Regent, (George IV.,) held a Levee in the same apartment. On leaving the Library, we turn to the right; adjoin ing Peckwater on the east, is Canterbury Quad- 1 Dr. Burton, author of " The Anatomy of Melancholy," gave to the library many of his curious books, in all of which his name is written with his own hand : Dr. Morris, regius professor of Hebrew, left many rare and valuable oriental books ; also a small annuity for the purchase of books ; and a rent-charge of £5, for ever, to be paid to a Student (Master of Arts,) who should deliver a Latin oration in praise of Sir Thomas Bodley, before the Vice-Chancellor, 8sc, at the annual visitation of the Bodleian Library, on the 8th of November : Bishop Fell was a benefactor to the library, as to every portion of the college, over which he so admirably pre sided : Dean Aldrich bequeathed his library of Classical books in 1710 : Dr. Stratford, canon, a lover and patron of English anti quarian literature, bequeathed his collection of books in 1729 : and Dr. Nicholson left some valuable books on Divinity, Sec. t2 208 ORIEL COLLEGE. rangle, formerly Canterbury College, or Hall." This Court is principally devoted to the lodgings of the undergraduate noblemen belonging to the Society : its chief ornament is the stupendous gateway, of the Doric order, forming a grand entrance to the College; it was erected in 1778, from a design by Mr. J. Wyatt. The Visitor, who has accompanied us through out our minute inspection of Christ Church College, will leave it through Canterbury Gate, and, proceeding a few yards on the left, cross the street to ORIEL COLLEGE." Founded in 1326, by King Edward II.' Foundation — A Provost, 18 Fellows, and 15 Exhibitioners. There are also other Members not on the Foundation. The number of Members on the College books is about 330. 1 Canterbury Hall was dedicated to the study of civil and canon law. The celebrated Wycliffe is said to have been waiden, and Sir Thomas More was a member at a later period, having studied there under Linacre and Grocyn. The establishment was founded in 1363, by Archbishop Islip, and appears to have been chiefly intended as a nursery for the monks of Chiist Church, Canterbuiy, until it came into the possession of Henry VIII., who transferred it to the college. Dean Brian Duppa repaired and fitted it up for the reception of students ; and in that state it remained until the year 1773, when the old buildings were removed, and the square was re- constructed upon a new design, (as it now appears,) chiefly through the princely munificence of Dr. Robinson, Lord Rokeby, archbishop of Armagh, who gave more than £4000 for that purpose. b Much curiosity has been excited, and several contra dictory opinions advanced, respecting the etymology of the word Ohiel. Some authors have derived it from oriolum, a ORIEL COLLEGE. 209 Visitor — The Queen. *** Pouter's Lodge— On the left ofthe entrance gateway. Places chiefly worthy of inspection — The Chapel, Library, & Hall. The following are u few of the Renowned Cliaracters who were Members of this College — Sir Walter Raleigh ; Prynne Chief Justice Holt ; Dr. Joseph Wharton, the accomplished scholar and elegant critic, — brother of the learned anti quary and poet, Mr. T. Wharton, of Trinity College ; Bishops Pecock and Butler, the latter the profound author of " The Analogy" ; Archbishop Arundel, a great benefactor to the University ; and nearly twenty Prelates of distin guished ability. word frequently used for a porch or gateway ; others consider it to have been derived from a more than usually splendid eastern window, which formed a recess in the interior, and rendered the building conspicuous from without. Chaucer says, " In her oryall she was Closyd well with royal glas :" Some antiquaries considered it to be merely a corruption of Aul-Royal, an opinion greatly corroborated by some early deeds still extant, one of which describes the Society as " Prepositus et scholares domus Beate Marie Oxon Collegii de Oryell alias Aule Regalis vulgariter nuncupati :" — (The Provost and Scholars of the House of the Blessed St. Mary at Oxford, commonly called Oriel College, or hall royal.,) With res pect to this point there still remains great scope for minute investigation. 0 As there has been some confusion and inaccuracy in the accounts given of this Society, in most of the popular works relating to Oxford, it may not be considered unnecessary to dwell somewhat minutely on its early history, and the several sites occupied at various periods by the members. Oriel College is one of the few in Oxford which it is usual to describe as of royal foundation, though there is scarcely one which can be strictly so considered : the case of Univer sity College for a time remained very uncertain ; the claim of Henry VIII. to that honour at Christ Church is founded on an arbitrary usurpation ; and it was only by an act of courtesy that Adam de Brom, who was the real founder of " the Scholars of the House of St. Mary," (Oriel College,) transferred the ultimate honour of its institution and endowment to his royal patron, Edward II., as was customary in those times. Adam de Brom's proper foundation was in 1324 : the King, however, t3 210 ORIEL COLLEGE. The Quadrangle of Oriel College was finished about the year 1640. It contains, on the north enlarged the original plan, and became the founder of the present college, in 1326. Of the latter little can be said, notwithstanding his benefactions ; it is therefore more parti cularly of the former that we have to speak in connection with the society of which he was the real and initiatory founder. Adam de Brom was almoner to Edward II., (commonly called Edward of Carnarvon, from the place of his birth,) ; in addition to several offices of importance which he held, he was Rector of St. Mary's at Oxford ; and being desirous of ex tending the advantages of education in a place already ¦ devoted to the study of science and theology, he obtained, in the year previously mentioned, a charter from his sovereign, authorising the foundation of a college in honour of the Virgin Mary. The unhappy distractions that prevailed during the reign of this monarch, had their effect on De Brom s new project. He required the means of carrying out his design to the extent which he had contemplated ; and, according to tradition, taking advantage of a vow which the king had made in one of his extremities of distress, that he would found a house to the honour of the Virgin, he proposed to Edward (who was unable, under existing circumstances, to complete his intention with suitable magnificence,) to surrender to him his newly-endowed college. The King readily adopted the plan of his almoner ; and by this arrange ment both parties derived advantage : the college obtained the benefit of the royal countenance, and such additional revenue as the necessities of Edward would permit him to bestow ; who thus fulfilled his promise to the Virgin, and became the founder of an establishment dedicated to her honour. The charter of the new foundation is dated January 21, 1326, and it considerably enlarges the powers originally conferred on the Society, which was henceforth constituted a perpetual college of divinity, and canon law ; and Adam de Brom himself was appointed" the first governor, under the new title of Provost : this second title, a Frenc'ii corruption of prccpositus, was, perhaps, given to him on account of his being already rector of the parish church of St. Maiy, then in the patronage of the King. The first statutes, which are dated on the same day, also emanated from the sovereign, and are authenticated by the great seal of England. These statutes follow the precedent of those of Walter de Merton, (over his own college,) which appear to have formed the model for all succeeding founders till the time of William of Wykeham. Adam de Brom ably governed his new society, as Provost, for six years ; he died in Oxford, June 16, 1332," and was buried ORIEL COLLEGE. 211 side, part of the provost's lodgings ; on the east, the Hall, and entrance into the Chapel, the latter running eastward ; and on the south and west in the Lady-Chapel on the north side of the present Uni versity Church, where is his monumental staff of coarse marble, elevated on an altar-tomb of freestone, but robbed of its brasses. [This part of St. Mary's Church is now commonly called Adam de Broni's Chapel, in consequence of its forming his final resting-place.] Considerable interest might be attached to this portion of our subject, by pursuing the further history 'of this college through the usurpation of the visitatorial power by the Bishop of Lincoln ; and the subsequent restoration of the royal authority in 1726, after a solemn argument in the Court of Common Pleas ; but our limits will not admit of this, more particularly as, having dilated at this length on the founda tion of the college, it will be necessary to dwell slightly on the seven sites occupied by the Society. The ground for the first building of St. Mary's College, was the gift of Adam de Brom himself. It was a spacious tene ment, situated between the west side of St. Mary Hall-lane (now Oriel-street,) and High-street, called Taekley's Inn or Hall (from its founder, the rector of TaGkley,) though after wards, when let by lease from Oriel College to a family ofthe name of Bulkeley, it continued to be called Bulkeley Hall. The ground is now occupied by the premises of Messrs. Slatter, and Wheeler, in whose cellars the original crypt remains, nearly perfect. The founder also purchased for the use of his scholars an ancient hall beyond the north wall of the city, called Perles or Perilous Hall (previously mentioned) ; but it is not probable that his scholars ever inhabited it, on account of its inconvenient distance from the college ; and it was rebuilt from the foundation by Dr. Kettel, president of Trinity College, and hence styled Kettel Hall. Edward II., at the time he gave the statutes to the Society, made a donation comprising the advowson of St. Mary's Church, with all the rights and appurtenances thereunto belonging, amongst which was The Manse, situated in the parish. This consisted of what is now St. Mary Hall, and, with some shops in High-street, formed the rectory, appointed to be the habitation of the provost and fellows, who were, however, by the statutes, allowed to occupy any other place, provided they could acquire a better and more suitable one " within the same parish." But to St. Mary's Manse, as to Perilous Hall, it is extremely doubtful whether the members ever removed from Taekley's Inn, as they had in view the acquisition of a new property, on the site of which the college 212 ORIEL COLLEGE. sides are apartments for the fellows, and other members of the society. The roof of the gateway is ornamented with the royal Arms of Charles I., and the other doors with the Arms of benefactors. Northward of this quadrangle,21 there are two hand some buildings ; that on the east erected at the now stands, and from which it derives its name. This was a splendid mansion, forming an angle between St. John (now Merton) street and Schydyard* (now Oriel) street, called Le Oriole, or "La Oriole Halle," the derivation of which has been already mentioned. Of this they became possessed through the munificence of Edward III., who may almost lay claim to the title of a third founder. The mansion was in the possession of Jacobus de Hispania, (James of Spain,) it having been bestowed on him for life by Queen Eleanor of Castile, mother of Edward II., (in honour of whom the Spanish pome granate frequently appears in the decorations of the college, as in St. Mary's "Church,) to whom he was chaplain. It is more than probable that Adam de Brom, ever wary and cautious, had made some previous arrangement with the chaplain ; for in the year 1327, the first of his reign, King Edward III. (who, in his grant, recognises his father as the founder of the college,) granted a reversion ofthe property to the Society ; and in 1328, Jacobus de Hispania made over his life-interest; the college thus becoming the absolute possessors of the fee. Edward III., in compliance with the bequest of Adam de Brom, likewise gave to the college (in 1326,) the hospital of St. Bartholomew, near Oxford, (which had been founded for lepers by Henry I.,) with all its appurtenances, chiefly as a place of retirement in case of the plague. There are still visible some interesting remains of this hospital. From this period the Society was aided by numerous valuable benefactions, and at the present time its influence is scarcely inferior to that of any college in the University. The buildings of Oriel College in comparison with the original foundation, are, without exception, of modern date, principally of the 17th century. * In addition to the one large quadrangle of this college, there is a second or inner one formed of distinct and irregular buildings : the one on the eastern side was built in 1719, by Dr. John Robinson, bishop of London, who caused the [• Schydyard-street " mens Schediaslicorum," (afterwards St. Mary Hall- lane, from the hall therein situated, and now Oriel -street, from the college,) was thus styled from the writers and transcribers of" Schedes," (sheets, or books,) who lived in it.] ORIEL COLLEGE — LIBRARY. 213 expense of Bishop Robinson, and the correspond ing one on the west side, built in 1729, by the munificence of Dr. George Carter, provost of the College, who bequeathed his whole fortune for this purpose, and for other benefits to the Society. Between these two buildings stands The Library, built in 1788, after a design of Wyatt, and considered to be one of the most perfect pieces of architecture in Oxford. The front, with equal grandeur and simplicity, exhibits only the Ionic order ; all the parts are very com manding, the ornaments few, and the whole harmonious. This Library contains a good col lection of books : to those originally belonging to it has been added a very curious and valuable collection by the bequest of the late Baron Edward Leigh, of Stoneleigh, in Warwickshire, at one time a nobleman of Oriel College, and after wards High Steward of the University.3 Here is preserved a Manuscript Commentary on the Book of Genesis, written in the 14th century, b by John following inscription, in Runic characters, to be placed on the front wall : — " Madr el moldvr avki." Which, translated, implies, Man is but a heap of dust. - Baron Leigh died in 1786 ; and the expenses of the library (which was commenced in 1788,) were supplied by the subscriptions of the provost, fellows, and other members of the society, and of the Honourable Mrs. Leigh, his lord ship's sister. This is the third library erected in the college ; the first in 1444, the second in 1637. The interior of the present building is not so much admired as the external elevation. b The curious investigator will find among the old books in the library a very extensive collection of the woi'ks of William Prynne, the well-known antiquary, and most literate of the republican party in the Great Rebellion, presented by himself 214 ORIEL COLLEGE — HALL. Capgrave, an Augustinian monk, of Canterbury. The two elegant pillars in this room are much admired. The following Portraits decorate the walls: — Dr. George Morley, bishop of Winches ter ; Dr. Thomas Kenn, bishop of Bath and Wells ; and Dr. Seth Ward, bishop of Salisbury. A handsome Common-Room is under the library : this room is adorned with Portraits of — Dr. Eveleigh, provost, by Hoppner; Dr. Cople- ston, late provost, and bishop of Llandaff, by Phillips ; and Sir William Seymour, late Puisne Judge in the Bombay Court, and formerly a member of the College. Here is also a picture, by Vasari, representing the Italian writers — Guido, Cavalcanti, Dante, Boccaccio, Petrarch, Politian, and M. Ficinus — the gift of James Clutterbuck Smith, Esq. The Hall is approached by a grand flight of steps opposite the college entrance, and an em battled portico, which is decorated with the statues of the Virgin and Child, and of Kings Edward II. and III., in canopied niches; above these, a circular pediment, supported by pilasters, and decorated with vases, rises before the roof. The porch was formerly adorned with open work, representing the words " Regnante Carolo." The Hall, completed in 1637, is 50 feet long and 20 wide, and is fitted up with a handsome wainscot, to this college, of which he had been a member ; and among the number a copy of his Parliamentary Records, of which only twenty-three copies were saved from the Fire of London ; the sum paid for the three volumes, at the sale of the late Duke of Sussex, was £155. J)raMnk£n^d by J.kS 'S. FOUJKJDEm'S CFE (?r~ij&Z College J Zcruicn^iJ 5 ftFi.u'Tz.byShtrHacZ.ZTieb, i-J. ORIEL COLLEGE — CHAPEL. 215 and an entablature of the Doric order. At the upper end is a Portrait of Edward II., enthroned, by Hudson ; to the right is that of Queen Anne, by Dahl ; on the left, the Duke of Beaufort, in his parliamentary robes, with a negro servant bearing his coronet, by Soldi. In one of the windows are the Arms and motto of Pierrepoint, Duke of Kingston.* The two celebrated Oriel Cups are said to have been given for the use of the Hall ; one by King Edward II. , the other by Bishop Carpenter; the latter is a very beautiful cocoa-nut, set in silver- gilt. They are most splendid specimens of ancient plate; and may be seen on application to the butler. The Chapel was completed in 1642. In 1677, the high Altar was paved with black and white marble ; and in the following year it was repaired and improved in consequence of the legacies of Samuel Short and Charles Perrot, fellows of the College : it was again cleaned and repaired in 1833. The east window, painted by Peckitt of York, from a design by the ingenious Dr. Wall, (said to have been one of the best painters in the kingdom,) represents " The Presentation of Our Saviour in the Temple." The Chapel contains some fine monuments. An eagle of brass, given by Mr. Naper, in 1654, stands in the Ante- Chapel. North of Oriel College, is a A grand f§te was celebrated at this college on the 15th of June, 1826, to commemorate the five-hundredth anniversary of its foundation. 216 ST. MARY HALL. ST. MARY HALL. Founded in 1333, by Edward II.» Visitoii — The Vice-Chancellor ofthe University. *„* Pouter's Lodge — First door on the left. Several Renowned Characters have, at various periods, been Members of this Hall; among them, were — Principal William Allyn, in the reign of Queen Mary, canon of York, and of the churches of Cambray and Rheims, created cardinal of St. Martin "in montibus" by Pope Sixtus V., two years afterwards became archbishop of Mechlin in Brabant, died October 6, 1594, and buried in the chapel of the English College, at Rome, being at the time librarian to the Vatican; Sir Thomas More, Sir C. Hatton, Sandys, and Fulwell, poets ; William Crosse, translator of " Sallust," &c. ; and several others. The buildings of this Hall comprise a Quad rangle, (having a grass-plot in the centre,) formed by the principal's Lodgings on the north; the Hall and Chapel on the south ; and on the east and west by apartments for the members. The Chapel was built in 1640, at the expense of several benefactors. b In it is a curious epitaph 1 St. Mary Hall was formerly a tenement given by Henry Kelpe, a citizen of Oxford, in 1239, to the rector of St. Mary's Church and his successors; it continued to be the parson age-house of the rectors till Edward II. , in 1325, gave the church with all its appurtenances, to the provost and fellows of Oriel College, who, in 1333, converted it into an Academ ical Hall. An enlargement of the buildings took place about the time of Edward IV., when Bedell Hall was added to it. The first schools of literature undoubtedly existed at this spot, which, from the attention paid to the study of the law at those periods, bore the name of the great law school. The establishment consists of a principal, vice-principal, and about forty other members. b John Oswald, bishop of Raphoe, gave £100, in 1777, for repairing and ornamenting the chapel. The Hall has also been aided by other benefactions. Dr. Thomas Dyke, founded ST. MARY HALL. 217 on Dr. William King, formerly a principal of this Hall, drawn up by himself. He was buried in Ealing Church, Middlesex, but ordered his heart to be preserved in this Chapel. In the Refectory, which is the most antiquated portion of the edifice, are the Arms of recent benefactors, well executed in stained glass, by Russell, of St. Clement's, under the direction of a late principal and vice-principal. In the first compartment of the east window is a figure of the- Virgin and Child, from a design by Raffaelle.a Returning past Oriel College, at the end of the street, opposite Canterbury (Christ Church) gate, we cross the road to four scholarships in 1677; having remained in abeyance for some time, they are now again open for competition, for inhabitants of the county of Somerset. The celebrated Dr. King, assisted by others, rebuilt the whole east side of the quadrangle after an uniform plan. Dr. Thomas Nowell, public orator of the University, likewise contributed a build ing fund for the service of the Hall. The principal's lodgings were improved (as they now exist,) at a vast expense, by the late amiable principal, Dr. Hampden. a St. Mary Hall was originally a tenement inhabited by burgesses of the town ; it afterwards became the Manse belong ing to St. Mary's Church, and continued in the occupation of the incumbents of the same church, until both the one and the other were, with some houses opposite, made over to Oriel College in 1325. It is not at all clear at what period this Hall became a house for students, independent of Oriel, although the date of 1333 is given ; the List of principals generally com mences with William Croten, in 1436 ; the buildings were undoubtedly enlarged by the addition of another hall adjoin ing, called Bedell Hall, in the reign of Henry VI. : the stu dents were not previously so numerous as to require a distinct principal, but were considered as members of Oriel College, and consequently under the superintendence of the jirovost of that society. 218 CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE. CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE.8 Founded in 1516, by Richard Fox, bishop of Winchester, ahd Lord Privy Seal in the reign of Henry VIH.b a The charter of this foundation (dated from the episcopal palace, at Wolvesey Castle, near Winchester, March 8, 1517,) recites that the college is founded " to the praise and honour of God Almighty, the most holy body of Christ," &c, for one president and thirty scholars ; or more or less according to certain statutes to be provided. This foundation acquired a rapid celebrity throughout the entire extent of Europe. The founder originally intended his college only as a seminary for the Priory of St. Swithin, at Winchester ; but he was dis suaded from this design by his friend Oldham, bishop of Exeter, who foresaw the destruction that was about to overwhelm the monastic establishments. b Bishop Fox and Cardinal Wolsey close the long list of opulent prelates, who bestowed their wealth for the benefit of future generations. The six colleges founded after the re formation, are chiefly indebted to public-spirited laymen for their existence and support ; but the name of Richard Fox, the founder of Corpus Christi College, is closely connected with those of Walter de Merton, Wykeham, Chichele, and Waynflete ; like them, he possessed talents which qualified him for the highest employments in church and state, and, consequently, recommended him to the confidence of his sove reign. Prelate, statesman, architect, soldier, herald, and diplomatist, he appears to have combined extraordinary powers and capacities. The defence of his castle of Norham, against James IV. of Scotland, and his attendance on Henry VIII., in that monarch's expedition into France, where he was present at the capture of Seroiiane, evince his military skill ; from his admirable arrangement of public pageantries, he was often employed to superintend the court ceremonials ; whilst a witness of his literary and diplomatic capabilities is extant in a clever letter, (printed by Sir Henry Ellis,) ad dressed to the Pope, by Henry VII., and supposed to have been written by Bishop Fox. This eminent prelate was born near Grantham, in Lincoln shire, and educated at Magdalene College, Oxford ; but being compelled by the plague to leave this University, he entered at Pembroke Hall, Cambridge, of which Society he afterwards became master. Having been introduced to the Earl of Richmond, (afterwards Henry VII.,) his business abilities soon gained him the confidence of that prince. When the battle of Bosworth had placed Henry on the English throne, the rise of Fox was as rapid as it was deserved. He was promoted first to Exeter, then to Bath and Wells, then to CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE. 219 Foundation— A President, 20 Fellows, 20 Scholars, 4 Ex hibitioners, and 2 Chaplains. There are also other Members not on the Foundation.' The number of Members on the College books is about 134. Visitor— The Bishop of Winchester. *«* Porter's Lodge — Right ofthe entrance gateway. Places worthy of inspection— The Chapel and Hall. Among the Renowned Characters who were Members of this College, were— Bishop Jewel; Dr. Richard Pocock, the oriental traveller; Twyne, the antiquary; "Judicious" Hooker; Cardinal Pole; the " ever - memorable" John Hales; Dr. Jackson, the eminent theological writer; the present bishops of Exeter and Llandaff; and it may ex clusively claim one well-known throughout the world as Durham, and, in 1500, to Winchester : he continued in favour with Henry till the death of the latter, and was appointed one of the executors to his will, as he had before been selected as a sponsor to his son, afterwards Henry VHI. On the accession of the latter, Fox appears to have lost his influence ; for in 1515 he retired from the court altogether, a step by no means imprudent, considering the fate of Henry's after favourites. From the period of his retirement from more public life, \ Bishop Fox appears to have devoted his time and means to the service of God, and the welfare of his fellow creatures. His generosity induced him to expend large sums in the improvement and adornment of his episcopal palace, cathe dral church, and other places; and, besides endowing free schools at Taunton in Somersetshire, and at Grantham in Lincolnshire, he founded Corpus Christi College in this Uni versity. Having established this on a permanent basis, he watched over it with parental care, and had the satisfaction of living many years to witness its prosperity ; at length, oppressed with age and infirmities, (having entirely lost his sight for some years,) he sank into the grave, September 14, 1528, and was buried with great solemnity at Winchester, in a sepulchral chapel erected by himself. The extent of his munificence may be ascertained in the fact that two hundred and twenty persons were fed every day at his table, to each of whom he left maintenance for a year after his decease, besides £20, no inconsiderable sum in those days. a There is an express regulation of the founder, that there shall be six gentlemen- commoners only. u2 220 CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE. the successful cultivator of modern science, that ingenious geologist and most agreeable companion, Dr. William Buckland, who resided constantly within these walls, till his promotion to a canonry at Christ Church College. The entrance to Corpus (as it is usually called,) is under a square tower, in the front of which are three unoccupied niches, with rich canopies. The beautiful tracery of the vaulted roof of the Gateway must not be passed over without inspec tion. The Quadrangle is 100 feet by 80 ; in the centre is an ancient and curious cylindrical dial, constructed, in 1605, by Charles Turnbull, M.A., fellow of the College. Opposite the entrance is an elegant statue of the founder, with the crozier and mitre, under a rich Gothic canopy. On the left of the Quadrangle is the Hall ; on the right are the rooms of the scholars; and in front a portion of the president's lodgings, over which is the Library; the Chapel is in the south-east corner, the entrance being in the passage dividing the large Quadrangle from the cloisters (built by Dr. Turner, and used as a sepulture,) and the New Building ; this latter is a handsome pile, called Turner's Building, containing sets of fellows' rooms, and so called from the president, Thomas Turner, who erected it in 1706, at an expense of six thousand pounds : the design is said to have been given by Dean Aldrich; it is a beautiful piece of architecture presenting a frontage of 119 feet; the central pediment is supported by four plain Ionic pilasters; and the basement story being devoid of rustic work, heightens the elegant simplicity of the elevation. In the centre of this CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE— CHAPEL. 221 building is an entrance to the College Garden, which, though small, has a good view into the meadows belonging to the College, the whole being bounded by the Broad Walk and Avenue of Christ Church ; and the Cathedral is also seen from hence to great advantage. On the terrace of Corpus garden may also be seen traces of the old City Walls of Oxford, which form a boundary between the College and the garden of the Margaret Professor of Divinity. The Chapel, built by the founder, remained in its original state until 1 676, when it was fitted up as it now appears, though it has lately been cleaned and the gilding restored. The Inner- Chapel is 70 feet in length, and 25 in breadth. The roof is now extremely elegant, being arched and oak-panelled, with moulded ribs, large carved bosses, charged with Christian Emblems, and the Arms of the Founder, the whole pricked out in gold and party colours. There are many monu ments in this Chapel to the memory of dis tinguished members of the College; — those to Presidents Rainolds and Spencer are particularly antique; they are built correspondent to, and situated opposite each other : the figures are habited in scarlet robes, and each has a book in one hand resting on a handsome cushion. The Screen is of cedar, having on it full-sized carved fio-ures of the Evangelists. Over the altar is a beautiful painting of The Adoration, by Rubens, presented in 1804, by Sir R. Worsley, formerly a member of the College ; it cost £2500, and was once the property of the Prince of Conde. This u3 222 CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE LIBRARY. was placed here to the exclusion of a very beautiful copy, by Pompeio Battoni, of Guido's Annuncia tion, the gift of Sir Christopher Willoughby, of Baldon House, Oxfordshire, to the church of which parish it has been removed. The Library, extending in a line with the Chapel along the whole south side of the Quad rangle, forms a part of the founder's original design." The roof appears to be a continuation of that of the Chapel, on which the west end looks down, the latter being furnished as a pew for the president's family. This Library possesses a treasure of curious printed books and manu scripts, both on vellum and paper, in fine preser vation. Among the latter is an ancient History of the Bible, in French, beautifully illuminated, in two vols, folio, given by General Oglethorpe; there is also an English Bible, said to be prior to that of WyclifFe ; and a parchment roll, contain ing the pedigree of the Royal Family, from Alfred to Edward VI., with their Arms blazoned and signed by the Kings-at-Arms. The Aldine Classics, collected by the founder, are inestimable ; the manuscripts of the antiquaries Twyne and Fulman ; the edition of " Cicero de Officiis," printed on vellum, in 1466, and many other works, are of great antiquarian estimation. The Screen over the door is ornamented with the - Bishop Fox, the founder ; Bishop Oldham ; Claymond ; Dr. Rainolds ; Brian Twyne ; Dr. Turner ; John Rosewell, B.D. ; William Creed, a fellow ; Dr. HaUifax, a fellow; Henry Lord Coleraine ; Dr. Bentham ; and Dr. Randolph, president from 1748 to 1783; were all benefactors to this valuable library. ililliljliillililliill II ~__~ :;!i| J}ra\ft kZry'r by S.S.Smrer. Zcn&fuJijb f* June i. z8zz by SJurwetAJVecty. & Jones. CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE HALL. 223 Arms of the Founder, and at the upper and lower ends are two ancient portraits of him: there is another, after he had lost his sight, in the gallery which leads from the president's lodgings to the chapel ; this was executed by Corvus, a Flemish painter ; it was cleaned and restored by John Hooker, of Exeter, in 1579, and afterwards engraved for Fiddes' Life of Wolsey. In the same gallery are the portraits of the Seven Bishops who were committed to the Tower by James II. ; these interesting pictures were pre sented to the College a few years since, by John Ireland, Esq., of Oxford.* The Hall is much admired for its elegant carving, and still displays much of its ancient magnificence, particularly its venerable timber roof, (considered a genuine specimen of late per pendicular work,) louvre, and north window; but in 1700, many ofthe heraldic embellishments dis appeared, the windows were modernized, and the walls lined anew with wainscot oak. The dimen sions of the room are 50 by 25 feet, with' a corresponding height: it contains the following portraits : The Right Rev. Dr. Copleston, bishop of Llandaff; Lord Stowell ; Dr. Burgess, the late bishop of Salisbury ; Bishop Fox, the founder, on panel; the late Lord Ten- terden ; Oldham, bishop of Exeter ; and T. G. Buckn3ll- Estcourt, D.C.L., one of the late representatives of the University in Parliament. a There is also here a fine old portrait, on panel, of Richard Pate, Esq., a benefactor to the college, and founder of a free school, at Cheltenham : he died in 1588, aged 73 ; and there is a monument to his memory in Gloucester Cathedral, which was renewed a century after his death, at the expense of the college. 224 MERTON COLLEGE. In the Common-Room is a handsome bust of Dr. King, late bishop of Rochester, by Chantrey; a fine portrait of the Founder ; one of Dr. Cooke, late president ; and two excellent drawings of the beautiful Shrine of the Founder, in Winchester Cathedral. This Society possesses, the Crozier of the Founder, (being one of the three croziers preserved in Oxford,) which, although more than 300 years old, is in a perfect state; it is 6 feet long, of silver-gilt, splendidly ornamented. They are also in possession of his gold sacramental plate ; a curious silver-gilt salt-cellar; srome finger-rings; crucifixes ; spoons ; a pix of exquisite beauty ; &c. On leaving Corpus Christi College, we turn to the right, and passing the entrance to Merton Grove, (opposite Grove Street, leading to the High Street,) we arrive at MERTON COLLEGE.8 Founded in 1274, by Walter de Merton, Bishop of Roches ter", and Lord High Chancellor of England. * Some little attention may well be bestowed on the history of this college, which is interesting as being the first offshoot from the strictly Monastic establishments to the Educational, now usually termed the Collegiate, and was the primary model of that body in Oxford and Cambridge. These, as they have grown up within the Universities, have given a most decided cast to the education of the upper classes of England. The distinction between the College and the Monastery may be thus briefly explained : the object of the former is study, and the acquirement of knowledge ; of the latter, total retirement from the world and devotion to God. The latter imposed a vow, or " religion," whence the monks were called " re ligious;" and a "rule," binding for life, from which they were termed " regular." The students of the College lived under discipline, but no vow bound them to remain longer than they pleased. In short, the College was intended to MERTON COLLEGE. 225 Foundation— A Warden, 24 Fellows, 14 Postmasters," 4 Scholars, 2 Chaplains, and 2 Clerks. There are also other Members not on the Foundation. The number of Members on the College books is 169. Visitor — The Archbishop of Canterbury. *»* Porter's Lodge — Left of the entrance gateway. prepare the clergy for active service ; the Monastery to seclude them for an unchanging life of religious worship. Before Walter de Merton's time the learning of the University was entirely in the hands of the monks, and even the parish clergy had become miserably ignorant. No encouragement was there here for poor scholars. But this universal benefac tor was the first who designed the plan for improving the parish clergy (or seculars, as they were called,) ; and having devoted the whole of his inheritance to this purpose, first founded his college on his principal estate at Maldon, near Kingston, Surrey, about the year 1264. The scholars were then accustomed to ride up to Oxford, to attend the Schools, and take degrees ; but finding this plan inconvenient, Walter de Merton purchased houses in Oxford, (and Cambridge, in case Oxford should prove less desirable,) and finally con veyed hither the whole establishment from Maldon, and created a body of scholars, (living together under the care of a warden,) whose object was theological study. The elder were charged with the discipline and teaching of the younger,; their property was managed by the intervention of a steward, or bursar ; and their numbers were replenished as vacancies occurred. The religious duties of the house were not, as in Monasteries, the business of the monks, but of certain chaplains, who, no doubt, had the pastoral superintendence of the whole body. Notwithstanding this improvement in the general system, there was still no idea of the College becoming an educating body till after the Reformation, when the fellows began to take pupils, who were called fellow-commoners ; and the custom increased until Archbishop Laud required every mem ber of the University to be enrolled in some college or hall, which statute has brought the present inimitable system into practice, and transformed the colleges, (i. e. the governing bodies,) from bodies using a founder's alms to maintain them in a life of study, into bodies receiving the youth of the nation within their walls, and giving them education. And no one can doubt the important office that they still fulfil, for the benefit of both Church and State ; nor can any one fail to see how quickly they have, and ever must, (whether for good 1 Postmasters. (See next page.) 226 MERTON COLLEGE. Places chiefly worthy of inspection — The Chapel and Hall. Among the Renowned Characters who were Members of this College, were — Wycliffe, the reformer ; Sir Henry Saville, founder of the astronomical professorship ; Dr. W. Harvey, the celebrated discoverer of the circulation of the blood ; Robert Devereux, earl of Essex ; Anthony a Wood, the antiquary j6 Sir Richard Steele ; Duns Scotus, father of the sect of Realists ; &c, &c. or for evil,) sway the destinies of the Nation and of the Church. The records of the further progress of this college, and of the founder's life, are so numerous, that it is quite beyond the extent of our present work to give even a further sketch of either. The buildings of Merton College, however, exhibit the growth of the Collegiate system, in an admirable light. The scholars of the 13th century, slept in one dormitory, took all their meals in one refectory, and probably studied together, until the library was built in 1384. The founder's kin were educated in the adjoining Hall (St. Alban's,). The post masters, added in 1380, inhabited the building opposite the gate, until 1600, when Sir Henry Saville built the new quad rangle for the fellows, thirteen of whom were intended to have each his postmaster in the room under him. The old quadrangles were then appropriated to the B.A. fellows, and the independent members, who were first admitted to study in the reign of Elizabeth, but shortly afterwards again dis missed, as injurious to strict discipline. They were chiefly men of high rank, and commoned with the fellows, whence they obtained the title of fellow-commoner, now nearly super seded by that of gentleman-commoner. a An addition to the foundation of Merton College was made in 1380, by Dean Willyott, who gave exhibitions for the maintenance of twelve (since increased by Dr. Chamber to 14,) poor scholars, called Postmasters (portionista), who remained only during their pupilage, and never became part of the governing body ; they resided, as already stated, in the house exactly opposite the college gate, famed as the birth place of Anthony a Wood, the historian and biographer of Oxford. It may be interesting, and it is certainly curious, by way of contrast, to state that the postmasters anciently performed the duties of choristers, and that their payment for this duty was six shillings and fourpence per annum ; whilst the allowance to the scholars, in 1274, was fifty shillings yearly, which provided for all necessaries, lodgings excepted. b Anthony a Wood, one of the brightest luminaries of past ages, equally an honour to the city that gave him birth, as to MERTON COLLEGE. 227 The beautifully-sculptured Gateway of this College has over it an embattled Tower, orna mented with the statues of Henry III. and Walter de Merton, under Gothic canopies.3 Merton College consists of three distinct Courts or Quadrangles. The first comprehends the Hall on the south; the Chapel on the west; the en trance gateway, porter's lodge, and chambers for the members on the north; and the warden's lodgings on the east. A noble archway which connects the warden's lodgings with the Hall, opens into the second or great Quadrangle. It exhibits a fair specimen of the mixed Gothic and Grecian architecture of that period. Its extent is 110 feet by 100, and is the college of which he was so distinguished a member, was born in 1632, in the little stone house opposite the great gate of Merton College. Having received the first part of his education at Thame, and New College school, he was, in 1647, admitted a postmaster of Merton. His turn of mind was soon displayed in favour of ancient literature and history, to the study of which he devoted his whole life. His in defatigable industry appears not only in those valuable works the " Athene," and the " Historia et Antiuuitates Uni versitatis Oxon," but also in the ample collection of MSS., which he bequeathed by his will to lie Ashmolean Museum. For the compilation of these he was indulged with an oppor tunity of perusing the original records of the University and City, of which he was so faithful a copyist, that whoever follows him in his researches will have just reason to admire his accuracy and care. To his unwearied diligence he united a natural propensity to discover, and an undaunted spirit to speak the Truth. He had a sincere abhorrence of everything mean or servile ; and if he is at any time guilty of misrepre senting the characters of others, it is entirely owing to his having first been deceived himself. He lies buried in Merton College ante-chapel, under this short but expressive inscrip tion : — " Antonius a Wood, antiquarius, ob. Nov. 29, 1695." * The gateway and tower remain as built in 1416, by Bishop Redburne, warden of the college. 228 MERTON COLLEGE. occupied solely by the Fellows. At the south end of this Court is the entrance to the Gardens ; the old City Wall bounds them on two sides, and affords an excellent terrace walk. The Gardens, or Grove, as they are usually termed, are in them selves extremely pleasant, and form an agreeable retreat. On the south of the Chapel is- a smaller Court, communicating with the other two, which at an early period obtained the name of the Mob Quad rangle, and is the most perfect specimen of the ancient Quadrangle in Oxford.3 It has not been much altered since 1384, when the Library/ which occupies two sides of it, was erected. Over the passage into this Court is the Treasury, or Exchequer, built by the founder : it is entirely of stone, and is the oldest apartment of its kind in the University. It is still used for the college documents, and, therefore, is not opened to strangers. ¦ The Mob Quadrangle is said to have been built by William Rede, fellow of the college, and afterwards bishop of Chichester. Some fragments of painted glass, on which the • Holy Lamb is represented, in allusion to St. John the Baptist, remain in the more ancient windows ofthe library. b This room, being the earliest of its kind, has furnished the model for similar rooms in Oxford. Before it was built, the books were kept in chests, of which catalogues remain. After its erection it became the regular study of the college. Each book was chained, and was made use of on the spot, for which purpose oaken benches were erected. The chains were not removed till about 1780 : one is left as a specimen. The MSS. are about four hundred, many of great value, and interesting as showing the studies of former ages. The most curious printed books are Caxton's " Chaucer," and Wynkyn de Worde's " Legenda Angliae." The contrast between the library, finished in 1369, and that of Christ Church, is very striking. Strangers, who delight in the study of antiquities, MERTON COLLEGE CHAPEL. 229 The Chapel3 (which is also the Church of St. John's parish,b) is a noble Gothic edifice: the Tower, rising from the centre of the cross aisle and supported by a body of grand piers, contains eight finely-toned bells ; it is not only a beautiful will, with peculiar pleasure, visit the room in which our learned Oxford antiquary, Anthony a Wood, passed much of his time, and probably gained much of his information. Wood tells us that the visitors appointed in the reign of Edward VI. took away " a cart-load of manuscripts, and above," from this library, several of which were on mathe matical subjects. He calls these destroyers of literature, " ignorant and zealous coxcombs ;" and informs us, that after their purgation had taken place, " there was seldom seen any thing in the University but books of poetry, grammar, idle songs, and frivolous stuff," during the whole of the reign of Edward VI. 3 The University sermon is preached in this chapel on St. Philip and St. James, and on the first Sunday in August. The chapel is parochial as well as collegiate, according to the original appropriation to the Society. It was granted to the founder in 1265, by the Benedictine Monks of Reading Abbey. In this grant was included the cemetery and the piece of ground westward, now called the " Grove." St. Mary's Chapel, adjoining the church, is a very ancient structure, successively a chantry or vestry, a chapel, and a brewery. This appears to have been the lady-chapel of the old church ; it was instituted by Robert de Ireng, the fifth warden of the Society ; he died in 1356, and was buried in the collegiate chapel. Many of the brasses of the chapel had been pilfered from the monuments in 1659, by the workmen employed in the repairs ; but care has been taken by the Society to preserve most of the slabs and fragments, which are now in the transept and ante-chapel. It may here be noted that the simple monument to the memory of Anthony a Wood has recently been restored, with laudable propriety, to its original station near the north door, where many of his family, as well as himself, were buried. The consummate skill and judgment manifested in finishing the Tower, so as to adapt it to the other parts of the building, can only be dis covered by a, minute inspection and examination of the external masonry. b The parochial duties of the church are discharged by one of the chaplains of the college ; and one portion of the chapel is reserved for the interment of the parishioners. 230 MERTON COLLEGE CHAPEL. structure in itself, but bears its full proportion to the magnificence which Oxford displays when viewed from various points in its vicinity ; and a ceiling has been removed that covered the ancient oak-groined ceiling now appearing, and which, with the gallery erected around it for the ringers, adds much to the beauty of the Chapel. The two transepts have lately been newly roofed. The Choir has seven windows on each side, decorated with paintings of Saints, Martyrs, &c. : these, and their associated decorations, display no com mon degree of splendour. The architecture of the east window, called the Catherine-wheel win dow, is much admired; it is the pride of the Chapel; possessing uncommon beauty, from the proportion of its parts, the fancy of its tracery, and the attractive effect of its whole design : its paintings, in six compartments, representing the principal events in the Life of Christ, were executed by W. Price, in 1700. The Altar- piece is a painting of the Crucifixion, by Tintoret, the gift of John Skip, Esq., of Ledbury, formerly a gentleman-commoner of the College. Under this window, and along the side walls of the Chancel, is some ancient tapestry in good pre servation, representing the Story of Esther and Ahasuerus. Adjacent to the Altar are the monu ments of Sir Henry Saville, and Sir Thomas Bodley, the founder of the Bodleian Library: and near the entrance of the Choir is a handsome monument erected to the memory of Dr. Wintle an! his Sister; and the fine Monumental Cross spjken of by Gough and Chalmers. In the Merton college — ante-chapel, hall. 231 Ante-Chapel are monuments to the memory of Anthony a Wood, the antiquary ; Henry Jackson ; Nathaniel Wight ; Richard Lydall ; John Whitfield 5 &c. The Hall is a spacious room, with little deco ration.3 In the windows some of the ancient Arms are still preserved ; the door is very ancient, and the hinges are made to spread over it, so as to form a flourishing ornament, which was the mode of decoration before the introduction of panelling in the fourteenth century. The Hall contains a good portrait of Walter de Merton, the founder : under this picture is a tablet stating that the Emperor of Russia and his Sister resided at this College, (in the Warden's lodgings,) when they visited the University in 1814; there are also portraits of the Hon. Shute Barington, late bishop of Durham, Mr. Justice Rooke, (both of whom were members of this College,) and Bishop Jewel. The lower end is occupied by a large a This room has sometimes been honoured with the presence of royalty. Queen Catherine of Arragon, and Queen Eliza beth, were both entertained at dinner in it ; the former in 1518, the latter in 1592. A curious custom was formerly kept up at this college, called Merton Black Night ; a species of diversion observed when the dean kept the bachelors at disputations till twelve at night. It consisted in breaking open the buttery and kitehen doors, rifling them of their stores, and making merry with the spoil. The origin of this practice is said to have been an unlucky answer made by Johannes Duns Scotus, father of the sect of Realists, and at the time dean of the college, to Gulielmus Occham, father of the Nominalists, and then a bachelor-fellow of the same Society. Occham, after a hot dispute with the dean, in which the latter is said to have been worsted, being an inferior, at parting submitted himself with the rest of the bachelors to the dean, in this form : " Domine, quid faciemus ?" as if begging punishment for x2 232 MERTON COLLEGE — HALL. historical painting, representing the founder sit ting in his episcopal robes and mitre, and pointing to a view of his college : on the right is Minerva introducing a youth holding a book : to the left stand Religion and Prudence, behind which are two Monks retiring, with countenances expressive of malignity and indignation : in the upper part are two winged figures bearing a laurel wreath and a scroll, containing the names of R. Bacon, Scotus, Wyclifle, Linacre, Jewel, Bodley, Saville, and Harvey, who had been distinguished members of this College : at the bottom are inscriptions informing us that Dr. J. Wall was the painter and the donor of this picture.3 In the elegant Gothic Hall of the Warden's lodgings is a splendid Vase of Siberian Jasper, presented to the Society by the late Emperor of Russia : on it are inscriptions in the Latin and Russian Languages. On leaving Merton College, we proceed a few yards eastward, and arrive at their boldness and arguing. Scotus unluckily replied to him, " Ite, et facite quid vultis :" on receiving this answer, these obstreperous sons of mode and figure are understood to have established a precedent for the spoliations committed in the pantry on Merton Black Night. 1 Dr. Wall, formerly a*fellow of Merton, was afterwards an eminent physician at Worcester. It has been said of him, that if he had not been one of the best physicians, he would have been the best painter of his age. His son, Dr. Martin Wall, was the late Clinical Professor in the University, and for many years a distinguished physician in Oxford. ST. ALBAN HALL. 233 ST. ALBAN HALL.3 Founded by Robert de St. Alban, a citizen of Oxford, in the reign of King John. Foundation— A Principal, Vice-Principal, and about 50 Members on the books. Visitor— The Chancellor of the University. *** Porter's Lodge — At the end ofthe Court. The following are a few from a long list of Renowned Characters who were Members of this Hall: — Philip Massinger, the dramatic poet ; William Lenthall, speaker of the House of Commons during the Long Parliament; Zachary Bogan, M.A., a learned Puritan of the 17th century, and bene factor to the City of Oxford, — he was afterwards a member of Corpus, where he died, from intense application to his studies, September 1, 1659, and was buried in the cloister. Archbishop Marsh ; Dr. Lamplugh, archbishop of York '; Benedict Barnham, who built the front of the Hall, as it is at present ; and among the eminent principals were, — a St. Alban Hall is the most ancient of the numerous educational houses in use previous to the foundation of colleges. It owes its name to a family whose appellation became softened into St. Auban : one of these was the founder of this hall ; he was an ancient burgher of Oxford, in King John's time, and was afterwards called " Robertus de Sancto Albano ;" though he probably built the hall for his own residence, as there is no proof of its being used for academical purposes at so early a period. In the reign of Henry VI. another edifice was united to St. Alban Hall, called Nunne Hall ; and both of these having become the property of Littlemore Nunnery, on its dissolution, Henry VIII. gave these tenements to his own physician, Dr. George Owen, of Merton College, and they were at a subsequent period, after having frequently changed proprietors, trans ferred to Merton College, to whom the property still belongs, although the privilege of appointing a principal has, in com mon with all the other halls (St. Edmund Hall excepted,) been long ceded to the Chancellor of the University. The front of this hall was rebuilt in 1600, chiefly from a legacy left for the especial purpose by Benedict Barnham, once a commoner of the house, and subsequently a citizen and alderman of London. His arms, quartering those of Brace- bridge, still remain over the entrance gate. x3 234 ST. ALBAN HALL. Hugh Saunders, alias Shakspere,a D.D. ; Bishop Hooper, the martyr; and Dr. Elmsley, the celebrated Grecian scholar, whose general knowledge, independent of his classical attainments, was not surpassed by that of any man of his time ;b &c, &c. This Hall consists of one Quadrangle, the south side having been rebuilt in 1789, by Dr. Randolph, then principal. The principal's lodg ings are between the gateway and the walls of Merton gardens; they were nearly rebuilt a few years since at a great expense, by Dr. Whately, the present distinguished archbishop of Dublin. On the right hand, as we enter the Court from the outer doorway, is the Hall, or refectory, a very neat apartment. At the north-western angle is the very picturesque Bell- Tower, which is of great antiquity, and has a modern addition of singular appearance. Our circuitous Route through the University and City of Oxford terminates at St. Alban Hall, opposite which is a lane called Logic-lane, leading into the High Street, opposite Queen's College, and near the Angel Hotel; where, having concluded our tour, we bid farewell to the Visitor, who has, we trust, experienced the same delight in viewing the various places, as we have in our description of them. * Possibly of the same family as the great dramatist: he was principal in 1501. b Dr. Elmsley was born in 1773 ; educated at Westminster School, London, and Christ Church College, Oxford, and died at his lodgings in St. Alban Hall, as principal, in 1825. THE PALACE OF BLENHEIM : THE SEAT OP HIS GRACE THE DUKE OF MAELBOEOUGH. The House can be inspected from Eleven till One o'clock, on Tuesdays and Fridays. The China Gallery, Theatre, Park, and Pleasure- Grounds, may be seen at any time except Sunday. Express permission must be obtained to view the Private Gardens, and the House cannot be seen on Woodstock Fair Days without a similar permission. The Palace of Blenheim, one of the most magnificent piles of architecture in this kingdom, and perhaps in the whole world, is delightfully situated within half a mile of the borough of Woodstock ; being about eight miles distant from Oxford, and sixty-four from London. It was built by Sir John Vanbrugh, the eminent architect, at the public expense, in the reign of Queen Anne ; by whom, with the concurrence of Parliament, it was conferred, together with the annexed de mesnes, on the illustrious John, Duke of Marl borough, as a testimony of royal favour and national gratitude for his transcendent services, and the many signal victories he had gained over the French and Bavarians, particularly that near the village of Blenheim, on the banks of the Danube, from whence this noble Palace receives its name. This victory being achieved on the 2nd 236 BLENHEIM. day of August, 1704, it was enacted that " on the same day of every year for ever, the inheritors of his Grace's honours and titles should render to her Majesty, and her heirs and successors, one standard, or colours, with three fleurs-de-lis painted thereon, as an acquittance for all man ner of rents, suits, and services, due to the crown." From Woodstock, the usual approach, we enter the Park through a triumphal arch, or spacious portal, erected to the memory of John, Duke of Marlborough, by Sarah, his Duchess; on which is an appropriate inscription in Latin and English. On entering the Park, one of the most beau tiful prospects in nature discloses itself to our view. The Palace appears in front; on the left, part of the Borough of Woodstock ; particularly the Tower, the Rectory, and two handsome houses, from whence the views are delightfully picturesque : and, on the right, a broad and spa cious canal, intercepted, but not terminated, by a superb bridge; a lofty column on the rising ground, erected in honour of John, Duke of Marlborough, on which is the statue of the noble warrior; a delightful valley; and hills covered with majestic trees, groves, and plantations; all these unite in giving this spot an indescribable charm to the tasteful mind. As the Mansion cannot be seen till eleven o'clock, the Visitor is recommended to view the beauties of the Park and Gardens first; these, whether we regard their delightfulness of situation, or their most captivating natural charms improved BLENHEIM PARK. 237 by the choicest designs of art, equally demand our attention and warmest admiration. The China Gallery and Titian Room may likewise be inspected at any hour. THE PARK Is nearly twelve miles in circumference, and is one continued succession of captivating prospects and agreeably diversified scenes. From the High Lodge, (once the residence of the witty, but im moral Wilmot, Earl of Rochester, and the place of his death,) the prospect is not only one of the most extensive, but also one of the most enchanting in Great Britain; including, among a variety of other interesting and picturesque objects, a view of the University of Oxford. The Obelisk is opposite the north front of the Palace, on a considerable eminence ; at its summit is a statue of the immortal John Churchill, Duke of Marlborough ; on the pedestal are inscribed the eminent achievements of his Grace, and the Acts of the British Parliament in his favour. From hence we have a good view ofthe Palace, Gardens, River, and the Bridge, the centre arch of which has a span of 101 feet. Near this Bridge is a fine clear spring, called "Rosamond's Well,"3 where Henry II. is said to have contrived a labyrinth, by which the retreat (the Bower,) of his mistress, Fair Rosamond, communicated with the Palace. The lake is the finest piece of artificial water in the kingdom. » This well is supposed to have supplied the bath of Rosamond, when she resided in this park. 238 BLENHEIM PLEASURE-GROUNDS, &c. PLEASURE-GROUNDS AND GARDENS. The Porter at the east gate of the Palace will call the man appointed to shew the Grounds. The parts open for the inspection of Strangers are very beautiful, but the Private Gardens of his Grace are laid out with extreme taste, and contain a valuable collection of plants. The Gardens are likewise adorned with Grottos, a Fountain and Cascade, Statues, &c.,a and occupy more than two hundred acres of ground. In view ing the Pleasure-Grounds we pass the south front of the Palace : over its entrance, which is sup ported by Corinthian columns, is the bust of Louis XIV., King of France, adorned with proper military emblems, taken from the gates of Tour- nay. Under it is the following inscription : — EUROPE H.2BC VINDEX GENIO DECORA ALTA BRITANNO. [This Palace has been erected by Great Britain in memory of the skill displayed by the Defender of Europe.] THE CHINA GALLERY Is adjacent to the Park gate, and contains a rich variety of Porcelain, Delf, and Japan ware ; some of the articles are said to be 3000 years old ; the antiquity of these is inferred from the extreme rudeness of the designs, &c. In the collection is a Tea-pot that belonged to Oliver Cromwell; Curiosities from the collections of the Dukes of Orleans and Aumont, Queen Anne, the late a A written authority from his Grace is necessary to obtain a view of the Private Gardens. BLENHEIM TITIAN ROOM, PALACE. 239 Princess Amelia, Duke of Argyle, Duchess of Kingston, and others; specimens of Jasper China ; a curious piece of Delf, from Athens ; specimens of the honey-comb China, &c, &c. THE TITIAN ROOM May be seen by applying to the Porter at the east gate of the Palace. This room contains nine large paintings, con sidered the choicest productions of Titian, painted on leather, the figures larger than life, entitled the Loves ofthe Gods, viz. — Mars and Venus; Cupid and Psyche; Apollo and Daphne; Pluto and Proserpine; Hercules and Dejanira; Vulcan and Ceres; Bacchus and Ariadne; Jupiter, Juno, and lo; and Neptune and Amphitrite. From the subjects, it may be anticipated that the figures are scantily clothed. The estimated value of these paintings is £60,000. In the same room is a fine painting, the Rape of Proserpine, by Rubens, of great value. These paintings, as also most of those in the Palace, have lately been cleaned and restored, in an able "manner, by Mr. George Wyatt, of Oxford. Having viewed these external objects, we will now devote our attention to THE PALACE. Entering the eastern gate, we proceed through a quadrangle, consisting of offices, to the ¦ north 240 BLENHEIM HALL, BOW WINDOW ROOM. front, which extends 348 feet, having in the centre a superb portico, elevated on massive Corinthian columns, and a flight of steps leading to THE HALL: A magnificent room of fine proportions, the roof of which, supported by pillars of the Corinthian order, is 67 feet high. The ceiling, painted by Sir James Thornhill, allegorically represents Vic tory crowning John, Duke of Marlborough, as she points to a plan of the Battle of Blenheim. This room contains — a fine bust of John, Duke of Marlborough ; Venus di Medici, and a Dancing Fawn, in bronze ; several marble Termini ; two beautiful statues of a Nymph and Bacchanal ; and a Diana and Dog. In the Gallery, which is opposite the entrance to the Hall and over that to the Saloon, are paintings of Clara Eugenia, Infanta of Spain ; Queen Anne, by Lely ; a Lady in a blue dress, artist unknown ; and The Rape of the Sabines, by P. da Cortona. This Gallery extends the whole length of the house, 400 feet. The entrance doors of the Hall are fastened by an extremely ornamental lock, of peculiar con struction, manufactured by Smith and Son, of Birmingham. THE BOW WINDOW ROOM, Lofty, but not large, is adorned with exquisite tapestry, representing the Battle of Blenheim and the Battle of Wynendael : it contains the fol lowing paintings : — BLENHEIM BILLIARD ROOM. 241 John, Duke of Marlborough, & Gen. Armstrong, Kneller. Prince Eugene, Kneller. King William III., G. Schalken. The Thanks of Parliament to the first Duke of Marlbo- rough,beautifullyUluminat- ed, in an elegant gold frame, carved with Trophies of War and the Arms of the Duke. The Adoration of the Shep herds, L. Giordano. Female Head, Veronese. Head, Holbein. Temple of Janus, M. Ricci. Landscape, P. Reinagle. Female Head, Veronese. Man's Head, Titian. Head, L. da Vinci. Flight into Egypt, S. Ricci. Wood Nymphs and Satyr, J. Van Delen. St.Jerome studying, Giorgione. On the left of the Bow Window Room, are the State Bed-Chamber and the Duke's Dressing- Room. The ceilings of these apartments have lately been ornamented in the most tasteful manner, with the Arms of the Duke and other devices in rich embossed work, splendidly illuminated; and the furniture and hangings of the suite of apart ments are of the richest description. THE BILLIARD ROOM Contains the following full-length Portraits : — Sarah, Duchess of Marlbo rough, & Lady Fitz-Hard- ing at Cards, Kneller. Elizabeth, second Duchess of Marlborough, Hudson. Caroline, third Duchess of Marlborough, Kettle. Ann, Countess of Sunderland, second daughter of John, first Duke of Marlborough, Kneller. Anne, Princess of Denmark, afterwards Queen of Eng land, Kneller. Earl of Sunderland, Kneller. First Marquis of Blandford, Kneller, Lady Henrietta, and Lady Ann Churchill, Kneller. Elizabeth, Countess of Pem broke, Reynolds. Lord Chas. Spenper, Reynolds. Lord Robert Spencer, ditto. Gipsies telling the fortunes of some Spanish Soldiers, Val entino. Two Landscapes, Van Tempest. Fine Landscape, F. Mola. Large Game Piece, Dead Bucks, &c, Snyders. Lady Caroline, sister to the present Duke, Cosway. Boar Hunt, Snyders. Young Boars, ditto. 242 BLENHEIM GRAND CABINET. THE BREAKFAST ROOM. The furniture of this room is of a delicate and most tasteful description, in accordance with the tint of the room — the palest green. The paintings are — A Family Picture, (children of the present Duke of Marlbo rough) Marquis of Blandford — Lady Louisa Churchill — Lord Alfred, and Lord Allen Churchill, Sanders. Meleager & Atalanta, Rubens. Head, Holbein. Very fine Portrait of Lady, in oval frame, Vandyck. Offering ofthe Rosary, Rubens. Two small Paintings, Ferg. Four ditto, F. P. Ferg. A Knight of St. John of Jeru salem, Baroccio. Lady Anne Churchill, Kneller. King Edward VI., Holbein. St. John Baptizing Christ, Nicleland. Duchess of Buckingham and family, Vandyck. Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, Vandyck. Mary, Duchess of Richmond, Vandyck. Landscape, Bordewyns. Orpheus charming the Brutes, Brueghel, Cattle Piece, R. da Tivoli. Gertrude, Duchess of Bedford, Dance. WoodNymphs&SatyTj^SoBO. Two Landscapes, Poussin. King William at the Battle of the Boyne, J. Van Wyck. Landscape with Figures, Pafer. Ditto, Paul Bril. Sarah, Duchess of Marlbo rough, Kneller. Henrietta Maria, Queen to Charles I., Vandyck. Two whole-length Portraits, Myttens. A Fete ChampStre, Pater. Portraits of Lord Rodney and Mr. Sidney. Small oval ditto of Cromwell, Head, Brouwer. Architectural Piece, D. Van Delen. Interior of a Church, Neeffs. Cattle Piece, Bamboccio. Gipsies Encamping, Wouver- mans. Duchess of Bedford, G. Hon- thorst. Lady Penelope Spencer, Lely. THE GRAND CABINET. From this noble apartment, which opens to the east and south, the scenery is particularly charm ing. The paintings are — Lot's Departure out of Sodom, a present from the town of Antwerp, Rubens. Return of Joseph and Mary from Egypt, with Christ, Rubens. The RomanDaughter, Rubens. Offering of the Magi, ditto. Descent from the Cross, Jor- daens. Holy Family, Rubens. Portrait of Rubens, Rubens. BLENHEIM SMALL DRAWING-ROOM. 243 The Virgin with a Crown of Stars, Carlo Dolce. Raphael's favourite, Dorothea, A Dutch Family, Ostade. The Children of Israel passing through the Red Sea, Old Franck. Offering of the Magi, Carlo Dolce. Head of Paracelsus, Rubens. Pope Gregory and a Female Penitent, Titian. Virgin and Child, L. Caracci. Virgin and Child, Solimene. Fete Champetre, Watteau. Virgin and Child, Correggio. Our Saviour Blessing little Children, Rubens. Monkeys in Monks' Habits, Teniers. Card Players, ditto. Female Head, Nogari. Landscape, Ruysdael. Our Saviour, Carlo Dolce. Christ and St. John, Rubens. Virgin and Child, A. Caracci. Angel at the Tomb, Correggio. St. John, Carlo Dolce. Our Saviour and the Virgin Mary in the Clouds, with St. Bernard paying Adora tion, A. Caracci. Holy Family, L. Caracci. Landscape, Claude. Small Painting, Tintoretto. Head, by Reynolds, after Ca racci. Head of an Apostle, L. Ca racci. The Assumption, Tintoretto. Female Head, Rubens. Portrait, Lady Louisa Chur chill, Sanders. Small Head, Nogari. Small fine Painting, Vander- THE SMALL DRAWING-ROOM. The paintings in this room are very numerous and interesting. Italian Fruit Seller, Giordano. Caroline, Duchess of Marlbo rough, Reynolds. Lady Charlotte Spencer, in the character of a Gipsy, telling Lord Henry Spencer, her brother, his fortune, ditto. George, Duke of Marlborough, ditto. The present Duke, Smith. The late Duchess, ditto. Sarah, first Duchess, Kneller. Small highly finished Spanish Family Piece, Gonzales. Four Views in Venice, Cana- letto. Battle Piece, Borgognone. Marquis of r£a.vistock.,Reynolds. Present Duke and his Brother when Boys, Cosway. Portrait of Dutch Merchant and Family, Weeninx. Holy Family, Raphael. The Annunciation, Correggio. Landscape, Claude. Virgin and Child, Vandyck. Death of the Virgin, Guido. Fine Landscape, Vanderneer. Landscape, Cuyp. The Circumcision, Rembrandt. Burning of Troy, Franks. Dutch Mechanics Drinking, Destruction of Pharaoh and his Host, Old Franck. An Old Dutch Woman at her Spinning- Wheel, Teniers. 2 244 BLENHEIM LARGE DRAWING-ROOM, &c. Dutch Landscape, Teniers. Virgin and Child, St. John, and St. Nicholas, Raphael. Virgin and Child, Giorgione. Ditto, Poussin. Ditto, ditto. Adoration of Shepherds, Lucca Giordano. Offering of the Magi, ditto. Holy Family encircled with Flowers, Rothenhamer. Ditto, ditto. Marriage of Mars, & Banquet ofthe Gods, ditto, very fine. St. Laurence distributing the Ornaments of the Altar, Genoese. Isaac blessing Jacob, Rem brandt. Charles I. on Horseback, Vandyck. Two Portraits, Ladies, ditto. St. Sebastian, Titian. Time clipping Cupid's Wings, THE LARGE DRAWING-ROOM. This room contains some good paintings by the first Masters. A Madonna standing on a Globe surrounded by An gels, C. Maratti. Two Battle Pieces, Wouver- mans. George, Duke of Marlborough, and Family, Reynolds. The Woman taken in Adultery, Three Beggar Boys, Murillo. Rembrandt. Two ditto, ditto. THE DINING ROOM. Is a large and lofty apartment. The long and handsome table in this room is of English oak, as is a magnificent sideboard, elaborately carved with the arms of the Duke, and other devices. The wine-coolers are of the same wood, and carved with Bacchanalian emblems. The paint ings are — John, first Duke of Marlbo rough, Kneller. Charles, second Duke, Hudson. George, third Duke, Reynolds. George, fourth Duke, Cosway. The present Duke, Sanders. John, Duke of Bedford, Gains borough. Lord Strafford and Secretary, Vandyck. Bacchanalian Piece, Rubens. Virgin and Child, Rubens. Holy Family, ditto. Ditto, ditto. Venus and Adonis, ditto. Catherine di Medici, ditto. Helena Forman, wife of Ru bens, in the costume of an Archduchess, ditto. Philip II. of Spain, Titian. Three Graces, Rubens' three Wives, Rubens. BLENHEIM — SALOON, &o. 245 Andromeda chained to a Rock with Perseus just appearing, ditto. Lot and his Daughters, ditto. Rubens, his Wife and Child, ditto. Large Bacchanalian Piece, ditto. Charles I., Vandyck. Henrietta Maria, Queen to Charles I., ditto. Virgin and Child, ditto. Mrs. Morton and Mrs. Killi- grew, two of Charles the Second's favourites, P. Lely. THE SALOON Is a noble and highly-finished room, the base ment of which is lined with marble, in the Italian style. Above the basement, in six compartments, are represented the different nations of the world, in their characteristic costumes, by La Guerre. 1, French, English, and Scotch, with a portrait of the painter; 2, Spaniards; 3, Moors and Negroes; 4, Chinese and Tartars ; 5, Turks ; 6, Dutch and Swedes. The ceiling, also painted by La Guerre, emblematically represents John, Duke of Marl borough, arrested in the career of Victory by the hand of Peace, while Time reminds him of the rapidity of his own flight. In this apartment are — a bust of Caracalla; Cleopatra and the Asp, on a marble slab ; also a bust of a Roman Consul, and a Sleeping Venus, on another slab of marble. THE FIRST STATE DRAWING-ROOM Is hung with tapestry, (the colours of which have lately been much restored,) representing the Battle of Dunnewert; the Battle and Siege of Lisle ; and the Battle of Malplaquet. The paint ings are — Caroline, Duchess of Marlbo rough, Romney. Death of Adonis, Jordaens. Sleeping Venus, G. Lairesse. Fine Landscapes, M. Ricci. Spanish Mule - Driver and Peasants, Lancre. y3 246 BLENHEIM STATE DRAWING-ROOMS, LIBRARY. THE SECOND STATE DRAWING-ROOM Is likewise hung with Blenheim's unrivalled tapestry: this represents the March to Bouchain, and the Siege of that place ; in the Siege will be seen the Dog, which accompanied his master, Lord Cadogan, through the whole of his cam paigns. The paintings in this, room are not numerous, but the furniture of this and all the state rooms is extremely splendid. George, third Duke of Marl- I Two Paintings, Still Life, borough, Romney. j Maltese. THE THIRD STATE DRAWING-ROOM. The tapestry in this room, although as ancient as that in the other rooms, has but lately been affixed and exhibited : it consists of a Battle Piece, but what Battle it represents is unknown. St. Sebastian, Bellini. Three Landscapes, M. Ricci. Rape of Europa, P. Veronese. Abraham's Servant returning with Rebecca, Castiglione. Seneca bleeding to death, and dictating to his Amanuensis, L. Giordano. THE LIBRARY. This magnificent apartment is 183 feet long, and 31 feet 9 inches wide. It is impossible to conceive any thing more elegantly finished than the solid marble columns which support a rich entablature ; the Doric pilasters of the same ; the surrounding basements of black marble ; and the stuccoed compartments of the lofty vaulted ceiling. This spacious room is furnished with an extensive collection of books, in various languages, as well as many volumes relating to the arts and sciences. At the upper end of the Library stands a highly-finished statue of Queen Anne, in her BLENHEIM—- LIBRARY," CHAPEL. 247 coronation robes, on a pedestal, by Rysbrach, At the lower end is a bust of . Alexander the Great ; a fine piece of Grecian Sculpture, in good preservation, dug out of the ruins of Hercu- laneum ; and a number of alabaster figures, re presenting the Muses, Graces, &c, a present from •Rome to the late Duchess of Marlborough. On one side, above the bookcases, are several busts, and a number of whole-length family portraits; and on the other, large bow windows, the frames of which are exquisitely finished ; from these windows there is an Elysian prospect of the beautifully-covered descent to the canal, and the rising groves on the opposite hill. Here is a large telescope, by' Herschel, the gift of King George III. to George, the third Duke of Marlborough. The portraits are — •Francis, Earl of Godolphin ; John, Duke of Montague ; Anne, , Countess of Sunderland ; Elizabeth, Countess of ¦ Bridge- water ; the Countess Cowper ; . the Hon. John Spencer ; Elizabeth, Duchess of Marlborough ; Charles, Duke of Marlborough ; Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough ; John, Duke of Marlborough ; Queen Anne ; King William. THE CHAPEL, In the western wing of the Palace, contains a stately monument, by Rysbrach, to the memory of John, Duke of Marlborough, and his Duchess. They are represented with their two sons, (who died young,) and supported by Fame and His tory. Beneath, in basso-relievo, is the taking , of Marshal Tallard. The Altar-piece, painted by Jordaens, represents — Our Saviour taken from the Cross. 248 ROMAN VILLA. After viewing the Chapel, our conductor takes his leave of us, and we once more find ourselves opposite the North Front of the Palace. The whole of the Palace has lately undergone a thorough repair and embellishment, by the most competent artists', at an outlay of many thousand pounds. It must ever be viewed as a perpetual monument of England's greatness and glory; as well as a memento of the military prowess of her renowned defender. THE ROMAN VILLA Near the Village of Northleigh, about three miles from Blenheim, and about half a mile to the right of the turn in the road, from Woodstock to Witney, a discovery was made in the year 1813, which must prove of the highest interest to every lover of antiquity. The Rev. W. Brown, rector of an adjoining parish, observed during one of his walks, several fragments of Roman Bricks and Tiles, which induced him to cause researches to be made on the spot where these were discovered. The foundations of an extensive building were soon traced ; but the further examination was deferred till the year 1815, when a large Room and several Passages were discovered, ornamented with tesselated Pavements, evidently of Roman construction. A communication on the subject was made to the Duke of Marlborough, the ROMAN VILLA. 249 owner of the land, who gave orders for continuing the work, and caused a house to be built on the spot to be used as the residence of a person to prevent the depredations of the antiquary, who might probably be desirous of preserving a por tion of these relics of the Roman dominion, pre ferring to see them in his own collection than to view them on their original site. The Building appears to have been a Roman Villa, originally forming a quadrangle of about 200 feet square, and which, for ages past, had been entirely buried in the earth. A plan of this Villa has been published, giving a description of the four dimensions, &c. of the different apart ments discovered up to December 1816. The principal room is covered over to prevent its re ceiving injury by exposure to the weather, as is also a large warm bath, in excellent preservation ; the flues round it remain, and likewise the pillars of the Hypocaust, as well as part of the pipe which conveyed away the water. Other baths have been found in different parts of the building. One room particularly merits the attention of the curious, its dimensions are 33 feet by 20, it has a tesselated pavement with a Hypocaust under it; thus clearly discovering the method used by the Romans to heat their apartments. Near this room is another, covered, in which is preserved a quantity of wheat, turned black by age and found in one of the apartments. Several broken articles of earthenware have been discovered, amongst them a small urn but very slightly damaged. The mode of laying the tesselated pavement is clearly 250 ROMAN VILLA. perceptible, it totally differs from our method of paving, and is admirably calculated to preserve the rooms from the dampness of the earth. Numerous coins have been excavated, a few of them silver ; these are carefully preserved : the latest Js a coin of the Emperor Arcadius, who died in 408. The date of the evacuation of Britain by the Romans is 448 ; the remains of this building must therefore be at least 1400 years old ; whilst the probability is that their antiquity is much greater, the Romans having been in possession of the larger part of this country for 400 years. The refined taste of the Romans is eminently displayed by their erecting a Villa in this delight ful vale, which in addition to the antiquarian attractions of the place, is possessed of almost unrivalled natural beauties. It appears to be the very spot mentioned by the late Mr. Warton, in his " History of Kiddington," as having once formed a Roman Pottery ; a conjecture most probably formed, from seeing some pieces of ancient red tile occasionally forced up by the plough. However this may be, the discovery of the Villa must prove of the greatest interest and gratification to the antiquary, and historian, as reminiscences of the very earliest periods in the annals of British History. *»* Strangers who are desirous of visiting this place, will find it a pleasant ride or walk from Blenheim Park, through Combe Gate, to which they will be conducted by the keeper. A person resides oh the spot who points out the different apartments, &c, to visitors. SHOTOVER, HOUSE. This Mansion was built by Sir Timothy Tyrrell, Bart., in the reign of James I., and, even at this day, it may be considered, with its gardens, fine avenues, terraces, and noble timber, a very princely abode. A variety of paintings by the most celebrated artists decorate the apartments of the mansion, and the estate combines the varied scenery of Shotover Hill, commanding an ex tensive view over four surrounding counties. The soil consists of a variety of valuable clays and ores, particularly ochre, (the purest kind in the world,) besides geological remains, antiquities, and two Roman causeways. The entire hill is situated three miles from Oxford : it was, formerly, a royal forest, and is extra-parochial. Shotover Hill is 599 feet above the level of the sea. Shotover has been rendered celebrated as the place selected by Queen Elizabeth to meet the authorities of the Univer sity of Oxford on her visit to this city ; on that occasion she gave an extempore reply to a pre viously-prepared address ofthe authorities. Shotover, with Stow Wood, was, originally, a grant from the crown, and was obtained by the following remarkable occurrence, as related in a manuscript petition by Sir James Tyrrell, now in the possession of Mr. Drury : — " Sir Timothy Tyrrell, your petitioner's great grandfather, being one of the Gentlemen of the Bedchamber, and the Master of the Buck-hounds to Henry, Prince of Wales, your Majesty's great uncle, who, hunting in the Forest of Shotover, 252 SHOTOVER HOUSE. by his employment, held the buck's head for the Prince to cut it off; in doing of which, his high ness cut the Master of his Buck-hounds across the hand, which disabled him of the use of it for ever. So soon as he came to Court, his Royal Highness was pleased, without any application, in a most obliging manner, to give him a grant of the rangership of the Forest of Shotover, and Stow Wood, in the county of Oxford. The said grant was further confirmed to him by King James I., by letters patent, under the Great Seal of England, in the year 1613, for the life ofthe said Sir Timothy Tyrrell, and two sons, Timothy and William. After the death of Prince Henry, he was appointed Master of the Buck-hounds to Prince Charles ; in which employment he served him after he came to the crown till his death. The civil war breaking out, William, the third life in the grant, was killed in the King's service, at the siege of Chester ; and Timothy Tyrrell, the only surviving life in the first grant, who, serving the King all the civil war, %vas dangerously wounded in two engagements, and raised a regiment at his own expense." The last of the Tyrrell family, in the reign of George I., left the mansion and domain of Shotover to Baron Augustus Schutz — rendered freehold by purchase from Government. G. V, Drury, Esq., the present proprietor, is himself descended from the ancient German family of the Schutz, or Desinotts, Barons of the highest distinction and privileges. — See Imperial Patent at Shotover House. INDEX. Alban Hall 233 All Saints' Church .. 115 All Souls' College . . 37 Anatomy School .... 180 Angel Hotel 16 Architectural Museum 102 Arundel Marbles 75 Ashmolean Museum . 83 BaUiol College 125 Bankers xxx Beaumont Palace 149 Bedels xxx Maces xxii Bible Clerks xix Blenheim 235 Bocardo Prison 161 Bodleian Library .... 64 Botanic Gardens .... 12 Brasenose College . . 56 Bursar xx Carfax Conduit 167 Chancellor of the Uni versity xxi Chantrey Gallery.. .. 154 Chapels, Dissenting . . viii Chaplains xix Christ Church Cathe dral 175,187 Chapter House 196 Chaplains' Quadrangle 180 ¦ Common Room 180 Hall ... 181 — Kitchen . . 186 — Library . . 198 — Meadow 196 City of Oxford v Gaol 148 Lecturers 166 Clarendon Building , . 88 Classes xxiv Clerks of the Market xxiii Colleges and Halls, number of xix Commoners xx Common Room xx Commemoration 80 Convocation, House of xxii Convocation House . . 78 Corpus Christi College 218 Degrees xxiv Dependent Members of the University . . xix Divinity School 76 Dresses of the Mem bers of the Univer sity xxv Examinations xxiii Exeter College 108 Exhibitions xx Fellows xix Gentlemen Commoners xx Geological and Miner- alogical Museum . . 90 Governors of Colleges and Halls xx Great Tom 178 Heads of Colleges and Halls, a list of the xxxii Hebdomadal Board . . xxiii Holywell Church .... 101 House of Industry . . 144 Impositions xx Independent Members of the University . . xx Jesus College 117 Keeper of the Public Archives xxiii Kettle Hall 88 King's Arms Inn 103 Lincoln College 112 Magdalene College . . 1 258 INDEX. Magdalen Bridge 15 ¦ WaferWalk 12 Hall .... 90 Manners, Customs, &c. of the University . . xiv Market 116 Martyrs' Memorial . . 128 Matriculation xxiv Members of the Uni versity, number of vi Merton College 224 New College 92 New Inn Hall 163 Observatory 140 Officers of the Uni versity xxx Officers & Councillors ofthe City of Oxford xxix Oriel College 208 Oxford Castle ix Parishes in Oxford . . viii Pembroke College . . 171 Picture Gallery 69 Pluck xxiv Police of the University xxii Pomfret Statues 155 Population of Oxford vi Post Office ix Printing House, Uni versity 142 Proctors xxi Proctors of the Vice- Chancellor's Court xxiii Professors xxxi Professorships xviii Public Orator xxiii Queen's College 22 Radcliffe Infirmary . . 140 Library 50 Raffaelle and Angelo Galleries 156 Randolph Galleries & Taylor Institute . . 150 Registrar of the Uni versity xxiii Representatives for the City xxix Representatives for the University xxx Responsions xxiii Roman Villa 248 Rooms ofthe Members of the University . . xx Route xxviii Rustication xxi Schools 61 Sermons, University. . 47 Shotover House .... 251 Steward of the Uni versity xxiii St. Aldate's Church. . 169 St. Edmund Hall .... 16 St. Ebbe's Church . . 165 St. Giles's Church . . 139 St. John's College 133 St. Mary Magdalene Church 127 St. Mary's Church . . 46 St. Mary Hall 216 St. Martin's Church . . 166 St. Michael's Church 160 St. Paul's Church.... 142 St. Peter-in-the-East Church 18 St. Peter le Bailey Ch. 164 St. Thomas's Church. 165 Terms xxvii Theatre 79 Titles of Governors of Colleges and Halls xx Town Hall , 168 Trinity GoUege 120 Tutors xix University Church . . 46 University of Oxford, History of the .... xiii University College . . 31 Vice-Ghancellor of the University xxi Verger of the Univer sity xxii Wadham College 104 Wolsey'sAlms Houses 170 Worcester College . . 144 OXFORD : PRINTED BY P. TRASH, HIGH STREET.