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JAMESTOWN TOWER.

COLONIAL CAPITALS
of the DOMINION
of VIRGINIA

\e^^^r„

By MARY L. FOSTER
Williamsburg^ Va.

BRIEF HISTORICAL SKETCHES AND TRADITIONS OF
JAMESTOfTN, WILLIAMSBURG, YORKTOWN AND
THEIB VICINITY ILLUSTRATED WITH A MAP AND
PHOTOGRAPHS K«K>K»K»K»K^!OK»K»Kr«K»
"UNO AVULSO NON DEFICIT ALTER"

J. p. BEEL COMPANY, INC.
PBINTEES,
LYNCHBUEG, VA.
Capyright, 190'j
By marv L. foster

^utuu

N giving this little volume of sketches to
the public, it has been the author's pur
pose to describe the historic ruins and
buildings as they appear at the present
time, and at the same time to make them
as original and pleasing as possible by
lightening their history with the anec
dotes and traditions which have been
handed down throughout the years.
The information as to the original sites and grants made
to the early inhabitants of Jamestown has been largely de
rived from "The Site of Old 'James Towne,' 1607-1698,"
by Samuel H. Tloung. The author wishes to express her
indebtedness also to Dr. Lyon G. Tyler and Eev. W. A. E.
Grood-svin for assistance rendered in "The Cradle of the Ee
public," William and Mary College Quarterlies, and the
''Historical Sketch of Bruton Church," and with grateful
appreciation to acknowledge the kindness of Dr. J. Leslie
Hall, through whose hands the proof sheets have passed.
Maey L. Foster.

Bthimtian

®n iig Mtttlfet,
xaifo Ifaa hwtt mg utHpiratuin mh gmJiip,
tIfiB Itttlp bonk 10
affierttnnate^ JitJitrateJi.

INDEX

PAGE
Audrey's House  46
Baptist Church  71
Bassett Hall  71
Black Swamp  93
Blair House  ,  54
Brafferton Building   52
Brick Hotel  70
Bruton Church  55
Carter's Grove  90
Cary House  34
Court House  66
Debtor's Prison  66
Dunmore's Cave  64
Eastern State Hospital  87
Fort Magruder  92
Four-Mile-Tree House  36
Greenspring  37
House of Burgesses  75
Houses— Old  71
Jamestown  9
Masonic Temple  86
Martha Washington's Kitchen  89
Palace Green  63
Powder Horn  67
President's House  53
Raleigh Tavern  73
Randolph, Edmund — House  84
Randolph, Peyton — House  83
Randolph, Sir John — House  84
Six Chimney Lot  89
Tazewell Hall  84
Temple Farm  106
Theatre  81
The Virginia Gazette  85
Werowocomoco  107
Williamsburg  ¦ • -^3
William and Mary College  47
Wythe House  65
Yorktown  97

ILLUSTRATIONS
Jamestown Tower  Frontispiece
Jl , ' OPP. PAGE
House Ruins at Jamestown  29
William and Mary College  47
Blair House  54
Bruton Church  55
Bruton Churchyard  60
Dunmore's Cave  64
Wythe House  65
Debtor's Prison  66
Court House  66
Powder Horn  67
Old Masonic Temple  87
Ruins of the House of Burgesses  75
Bassett Hall  72
Peyton Eandolph's Home  84
Tazewell Hall  84
Cary Homestead  78
Martha AVashington's Kitchen  89
Enatern State Hospital  87
Moore House on Temple Farm  106
Custis House in which Dinwiddie was Entertained 65

5ame9town

"J^lumth rattka nf tall wUIi-tlftrrg
Anb birrli Hurrnunb
Sllfp Ifalf Ijtb anlttarg
®lb bnrjtng grnunb.
All tlfp Into iaall ta nrnmblpb
Anb mif rgtromn,
Anb tn tljr turf to a tumbbb
S'tnnf upnn slonf."

JamfBtount

i? ?|f rf?

HE "ivy-mantled tower" keeps its solitary
watch notwithstanding the storms of nearly
three centuries. As the loop-holes in the
tower suggest that probably it was built to
be useful as well as omamental by giving
the first warning of an Indian attack to the
lonely watcher on the inside, so now it is
the first to greet the eye of the visitor on
drawing near the historic landmark of the
Nation's first capital.
Eiwratton
The island is situated on the north side of James river,
about 40 miles from its mouth. Ealph Hamor, one of the
colony's early secretaries, gives its length about two and
three-quarter miles, width about 300 yards to one and one-
quarter miles.
When the first landing was made the island was joined
to the mainland by a narrow isthmus probably stretching
across what is now called Sandy bay.* It was probably on
*Map of "James Citty," Virginia, by Samuel Young.

10 (Enlnmal CHajrttab nf tiji?
the mainland side of this isthmus, about one mile from
Jamestown, that the first glass factory ia America was
built in 1608. It is also separated from the mainland by
Back river. A bridge across this river and a cart road
through a part of Powhatan's Swamp lead to a picturesque
drive of seven miles to WiUiamsburg. The island is approached
by steamers plying daily from Eichmond and Norfolk, which
stop at the wharf about 450 feet from the ancient tower ruin.
This end of the island, including twenty-three acres, en
closed in a wire fence, is the very generous gift of Mr. and
Mrs. Edward E. Barney to the Association for the Preserva
tion of Virginia Antiquities. It is to this Association that
we are indebted for the care of the ruins and under whose
auspices recent excavations have unearthed so much of inter
est to the student of history. Within the last year there
has been completed a massive sea wall erected by the United
States Government to protect the island from further en
croachments of the river. There is good reason for think
ing that only about twenty acres have been washed away,
chiefly west of the tower, and that this was mostly a sub
urb of the village city. It is the end of the island belong
ing to the A. P. V. A.'s that abounds mostly in historic
associations and hallowed miemories; where each bit of soil
has a story to tell of
"The past with all its passions
Its toils and wiles.
Its ancient follies, fashions,
And tears and smiles.

inmtntott nf ISirgutta 11
With thirsts and fever-rages.
And ceaseless pains.
Hoarding, as for the ages
Its little gains!"
These gains summed up through three centuries of exist
ence have made not only a glorious inheritance for us of
the present, but an example and trust as well.
A recent census of the United States shows the population
to be 76,303,387. In striking contrast to this enormous
figure is that of the little band of 54 gentlemen, four car
penters and 12 laborers, who on May 13, 1607, moored their
boats the "Susan Constance," "Godspeed," and "Discovery,"
to the trees on the shore where the water was six fathoms
deep. The "Susan Constance" was commanded by Christo
pher Newport, the "Godspeed" by the former explarer,
Bartholomew Gosnold, the "Discovery" by John EatclifEe —
three small ships which bore across the Atlantic the founders
of the American Nation.
After nearly five months on the water it must have ap
peared as a beautiful dream sailing those 40 miles up the
"Noble James." Those of us who have been fortunate enough
to take the trip up this part of the river in May will never
forget the wild beauty and coloring of the woods, where one
reads history in the very landscape. Smith says, "Heaven
and earth had never agreed better to mlake a place for man's
habitation." The ground was spread with "sweet and deli
cate flowers of divers colors and lands" and the air was red
olent with their perfume. The woods on both sides of the

12 dnUmtal CEapitala nf %
river, as well as on the island, were thick with white and pink
blossoms of dogwood, the cream of honeysuckle, and the red
bloom of the Judas tree. The cherries were in full bloom
and strawberries were so thick, "that it required very little
time and effort to pick a basket full." The trees were of
every shade of green from that in the baby leaves of the wild
grape, to the rich dark of the ancient cedars.

©I|? Sanding

He gives a vivid picture of their reception by the Indians
in the following extract : "At night when we were going
aboard there came the salvages creeping from the Hills like
Beares, with their Bowes in their mouthes, charged us very des
perately, hurt Captain GabriU Archer,* in both hands, and
a Sayler in two places of the body very dangerous. After
they had spent their arrows and felt the sharpness of our
shot, they retired into the woods with a great noise and so
left us."
The original landing placef has been submerged
but was probably 1,500 feet west of the present wharf, the
nearest distance to the shore 450 feet.
Having selected the spot on which to settle, the next morn
ing they began work. The first thing done was to stretch a
sail across two trees, under which the good preacher Hunt
held services each moming and evening.
*First secretary or chronicler to the colony.
fMap of "James Citty," Va., by Samuel Young.

Inmitttnn nf Utrgtnta 13
On the journey over the sailors had quarreled with him,
because his prayers had not kept away the storms. That
he was good is clearly proven in Smith's own words. Telling
of the fire which swept away everything the next year, he
says, "Good Master Hunt, our preacher, lost all his library
and all he had but the cloathes on his backe; yet none never
heard him repine at his losse." It was this same "Master
Hunt" who performed the first English marriage service in
America, in December, 1608, when John Laydon (carpen
ter) and Anne Burrus (maid to Mrs. Forrest) were united
in marriage. The groom was 27 and the bride 14 years of age.
During the next year there was performed the first Episcopal
baptismal service of an English child in America, that of
Virginia Laydon.
QII|^ 3Ftrst ©mo ffiljurrl^^ja
The first church was a 'Tiomely thing, like a barn,
set upon crochets, covered with rafts, sedge and earth,
as could neither well defend from wind nor raine."
It was burned with the rest of Jamestown about eight months
after its erection. The second was built on the same site.
It was in this that the wedding and baptism were celebrated.
There is good reason for believing that these first two churches
were built inside the first triangular fort constructed in
1607. Two corners of this fort have disappeared by the abra
sion of the island. The third comer, probably located in the
northwestern portion of the old Confederate breast-works,
is still to be seen. When these breast-works were thrown

14 Olnlnnial ©ajtitala nf %
up during the Civil War, pieces of armor and weapons of
the early Jamestown period were found. These entrench
ments are just above the tower ruin. Seen to-day, they
are composed of several mounds showing where trenches
were dug. Growing over it is a tangle of wild grape vines,
honeysuckle, wild cherry, persimmon, and other trees indig
enous to the Virginia soil.
Lord Delaware worshipped in the second church on
his arrival in May, 1610. He was attended at service by
a redcoated guard of honor, and sat is a velvet chair, with a
cushion of the same fabric on which to kneel.
We are told that the pews, chancel, pulpit, and windows
were of cedar, which wood was very plentiful on the island.
The communion table was of black walnut, and the "font
hewn hollow like a canoe." The church was kept sweet and
beautiful with wild flowers, freshly arranged every morning.
The outer walls were plain and bam-like. Two bells in the
steeple called the villagers to service morning and evening,
each day in the week, for, as Smith says, "Men's affairs doe
little prosper where God's service is neglected." The Eev.
Eichard Buck, who came over with Sir Thomas Gates,
preached the sermon the day of Delaware's arrival. He
made "a zealous and sorrowful prayer," after which the gov
ernor gave a practical and interesting talk. The former was
said to be a "verie good preacher." He married the Indian
princess, Pocahontas, to John Eolfe, "a hish^y respectable
young gentleman of Jamestown " (the fourth recorder for
the colony). Eolfe was a widower whose first wife had died

inmttitntt nf Hirgittta 15
since landing, or else in the Bermudas after the wreck of
the "Sea Venture." His infant daughter, Bermuda, had
been baptised and buried on the islands by Mr. Buck. Poca
hontas died tn 1617, and as Eolfe was married the third time
to Jane Pierce, the young daughter of the captain of the
guards at Jamestown, it is very probable that he performed
that ceremony also. It is most likely that the marriage of
Pocahontas occurred in the second church, as the date of
the ceremony was 1614, and the third church was built under
Captain Argall's direction in 1617, the former building hav
ing been found in ruins on his arrival. It is commonly
claimed that Pocahontas was baptised at Jamestown. An
old letter written by Eev. Mr. Whitaker from Bermuda
Hundreds to the Bishop of London, states that he had cate
chised and baptised the Indian girl under the Christian name
of Eebecca.
A ^Iruggb fat ^£xxBtma
The story of these first few years of the colony is that of
a hard struggle for existence. Together with Indian at
tacks and death from fever and starvation, she came near
sharing the fate of her sister colony at Eoanoke.
The houses were mostly thatched cabins, very frail and af
fording little protection from the weather. For the first year
they drank the brackish water of the river. Later a well of
"excellent sweet water" was dug inside the fort. An old
well, supposedly this one, has been recently unearthed. Of
the terrible "starving time" Smith tells us, "Our drink was

16 CQ;nlntttal QIapttala nf %
water and our lodgings castles in the air." With a touch of
irony he continues, "If we had been as free from all sins as
from gluttony and drunkenness, we might have been cannon-
ized for saints." To cap the climax, the guns were "fitter
to shoot down our houses than to offend an enemie."
When the gold fever seized the settlers, "there was no talk,
no hope, no work, but dig gold, wash gold, refine gold, load
gold," until a shipload sent to England wa? proved to be
only yellow sand.
During Dale's rule, about 1613, flogging and irons were
the punishment inflicted for laziness. A poor thief, for steal
ing a little oatmeal, was tied to a tree and allowed to starve
to death.
It is narrated that a passport from the king for the return
of a colonist to England was sewed in a garter, to insure its
safe delivery.
A story is told of three thieves to whom Philip II offered
the choice of coming to Virginia, or death. Two availed
themselves of the opportunity of coming over, but the third
preferred to hang.
The only real bit of romance which brightens the pages of
history up to this period is that of the Indian maiden Matoa
(Little Wanton), more familiarly known as Pocahontas, as
it was a bad omen to tell her Indian name to strangers. Her

IBnmtntntt nf Hirgtttia 17
friendship and love for Captain John Smith was very sweet
and beautiful, and the old saying that "a friend in need is a
friend indeed" was proved time and again during
her brief young life. The story of her saving his life by
placing her body between his and the clubs of the Indian
braves, will never grow old. Numerous are the instances
of her heroism. It was not an unusual sight to see her en
tering the town on a sunny morning with her "wild train of
Indian boys and girls" loaded with baskets of corn for the
starving settlers. After John Smith was wounded by the
explosion, and returned to England, her absence from the
tovm was conspicuous. In 1612 she was bought for a brass
kettle from the Indian Japazaws, whose wife she was visit
ing, and was brought a prisoner to Jamestovra. Here she
was wooed and won by the handsome young widower, John
Eolfe, and the wedding celebrated in the little church.
In fancy we see the plain edifice made beautiful by the
loving hands of the few women in the town, with flowers and
running cedar. Eev. Eichard Buck begins the ceremony:
"Dearly beloved, we are gathered together here in the sight
of God, and in the face of this company to join together
this man and this woman in holy matrimony." Tie reads
the beautiful marriage service of the Episcopal Church.
At the question, "Who giveth this woman to be married to
this man?" Opaehisto, Powatan's brother, steps forward.
Close to the altar the bride's two brothers are standing.
Presently the words which join the untutored maid of the
forest and the young Englishman are spoken. They pass

18 (Unlntttal Capttala nf %
down the aisle to "ever remain in perfect love and peace to
gether" as long as they both shall live.
A pretty story is told of her meeting with Smith in Eng
land. It had been six years since they had seen each other,
and instead of the pretty child he left, he saw a young matron
of twenty, who had been introduced at court as the Lady
Eebecca. There is ample reason for thinking that she be
lieved him dead. Great was her surprise on meeting him
again. Her happiness was very evident. Smith told her it
was not the proper thing for her to treat him as she had
done in Virginia. He was very dignified himiself, whereupon
she put her hands to her face, and, beginning to cry, said it
was very heartless for him to treat her so, she had called
him "Father" in Virginia, and she would do it now. This
was their last meeting. A year later (1617) she died sud
denly as she was preparing to retum to America. She was
buried at Gravesend, England.

i^atlj of #mttlj

Smith died the 21st of June, 1631, at the age of 52, and is
buried in Saint Sepulchre's Church, London.
His grave is under the church, in front of the chancel.
Above it are two fiat stones. On one of them is carved his
coat-of-arms, three Turk's heads. On the other stone is the
inscription : "Here lies one that hath conquered Kings,
Subdued large territories and done things,
Whieh to the world impossible would seem,

inmUtinn nf Hirgutta 19

But that truth is held in more esteem.
Shall I report his former services done
In honor of his God and Christendon?
How that he did divide from Pagans three
Their heads and lives, types of his chivalry;
For which great service in that climate done
Brave Sigismondus, King of Hungarian,
Did give him a Coat of Arms to wear
These conquered heads got by his sword and spear.
Or shall I tell of his adventures since
Done in Virginia, that large continent.
How that he sudued Kings unto his yoke.
And made the Heathen flee as wind doth smoke.
And made their land, being of so large a station.
All habitation for our Christian Nation;
Where God is Glorified, their wants supplied,
Whieh else for necessaries must have dy'd.
But what avails his conquest, now he lies
Interred in earth a prey to worms and flies.
O, may his soxil in sweet Elysium sleep
Until the keeper that all souls doth keep
Return to judgment, and after thence
With angels may have his recompence."*

®^atl| of Salnglj

During the year 1618 Virginia lost another friend in Sir
Walter Ealeigh. He had an abiding faith in the future of
the colonies and said to Gosnold when imprisoned in the
Tower, "I shall yet live to see Virginia a great Nation."
Amazing faith ! Could he appear on the scene to-day, what
a revelation it would be to him. Ascending the scaffold he
felt the edge of the axe exclaiming, "This is a sharp medicine,
but a sure cure for all diseases."

* A rubber fac-simUe is in the Powder Horn, Museum in Wil
liamsburg.

20 CUnlnmal QIapttala nf %
(Holtthattott of ©obarro
John Eolfe was the first Englishman to cultivate tobacco
in Virginia. Such a well-paying industry had it become to
the colonies, that in 1617 it was planted even along the
streets. It sometimes sold in London for 10 s ($2.50) a
pound, quite a difference when compared to the present
price of six or seven cents. Even the ladies at "James
Citty" went shopping with a cart of tobacco following, with
which to pay for the few things to be brought home in a
basket. The first wild turkeys ever seen in England were
sent from Virginia.
In 1619 a cargo of 90 English maidens was brought over.
All the old bachelors
"From thirty to sixty, — plain, fair, red and pale.
Of every description — all flocked to the sale"
and paid 120 pounds of tobacco for each young woman. As
we linger, gazing up and down the pretty driveway along the
river bank, we see through "a haze of dreams, bright maids
and laughing lovers," as they hurry to and from the
church where the Eev. Mr. Buck and his assistant have been
kept busy tying "the knot there's no untying." So pleased
and pleasing were the maidens, that fresh cargoes came over
very shortly, and, in 1624, the Governor was obliged to pass
a law threatening with punishment each fickle lass who
should engage herself to more than one suitor at a time,
thus proving that "feminine nature" is the same the world
over, regardless of time or place.

Snmtaintt nf Hirgmta 21
It was these same dainty maidens whose extravagance in
dress caused to be passed a law taxing the people according
to their wearing apparel. We are told that even the cow-
keeper at Jamestown was "accoutred in fresh flaming silk."
Evidently the old rhyme,
"Needles and pins, needles and pins.
When a man marries his trouble begins,"
was as true then as now.
In 1619 the tliird church was completed. It was built on
the same site as that of the tower ruin. Eecent excavations
have unearthed two parts of the original foundations. It is
composed of "a footing of cobble stones one foot thick, capped
by a one brick wall." The frail foundations testify that this
church, too, was a light frame structure. These foundations
can be seen just inside those of the original brick church.
It was in this frame church, during the first year of its com
pletion, 1619, that Yeardley, believing the colonies should
have "a handle in the government of themselves," called to
gether the first Legislative Assembly in America, thus laying
the foundation for a representative system of government,
which, beginning from a small malarial island in James
river, to-day rules a country scarcely satisfied to claim
the two oceans for its boundaries. The Eev. Mr. Buck, chap
lain of this first Assembly, offered in his opening prayer that
it would please God "to guard and sanctifie all our proceed
ings to His own glory and the good of this plantation."

22 (Unlntttal Glapitala nf %
ifntroburtion of #kli?ry
During this same year (1619) a Dutch man-of-war sailed
up the river, bringing twenty negroes, who were sold to the
colonists. In reading the history of our country in chronological or
der we find that several months before the landing of the
Pilgrims at Plymouth (1620) there had begun on the small
Island of Jamestown, the first English civilization in the new
world, the first English town and capital, the first glass
factory and the first Episcopal Church in America had been
buHt, the first English marriage and baptismal services had
been solemnized, slavery had been introduced, and the first
Legislative Assembly in this broad land had met.
The numerous Indian attacks to which the colony was sub
jected, during the first 50 years of its history, force the
thought that there was more truth than poetry in the old
saying, "There is no good Indian save a dead Indian."
iEtrat Imk Ifous?
In 1639 the first brick house was built at Jamestown. It
belonged to Eichard Kempe"" and is referred to by Govemor
Harvey as "the fairest that was ever known in this country
for substance and importance."
Wamtv Smn
During the same year plans were made for building a brick
church. It was probably completed about 1639-1644,
•Ninth secretary to the colony, gee page 60.

Snmtttintt nf Utrgtttta 23
the tower of which is the picturesque ruin of to
day. A part of the outer walls have been un
earthed. It is the desire of the Colonial Dames of America
to erect a memorial building, as a protection for the historic
ruins. On the wall of the memorial church the Episcopal
Church in America will place a memorial tablet to the Eev.
Eobert Hunt, the first minister to Jamestown. Eecently,
the Colonial Bell Association has been organized. Its pur
pose is to have made a bell which will break the solemn still
ness once again as it rings out "from yonder ivy-mantled
tower," when the Colonial Dames have completed their work
of restoration. An association composed of the descendants
of Pocahontas has also been organized, to erect on the island
a memorial to their distinguished ancestress.
It was the brick church belonging to the old tower which
was fired by a torch in Bacon's hands during the rebellion
in 1676, when the whole town was burned in order to keep
the tyrannical old Govemor, Berkeley, from returning.
The communion service* belonging to this church, pre
sented by Frances Morrison in 1661, is in possession of Bru
ton Church at Williamsburg.
The tower is built of red and blue glazed bricks, the so-
called English bond, formerly thought to be imlported from
England, but the general opinion at the present is that they
were made in the colony. Among the relics preserved is an
old brick with a footprint clearly imbedded in it. It was
*See page 58 for description.

24  (Unlntttal CHapttalB nf %
found among some ruins on the Island. The tower was
probably built with loop holes as a protection against In
dian attacks. The entrance was through an arched doorway.
After the defeat of Opechancanough in 1644, Indian mas
sacre was practically unlmown at Jamestown. The old
chief, aged and blind, was captured and imprisoned here.
Greatly to his indignation he was the subject of much cu
riosity and comment. One of his utterances to that effect
was, "Had it been my fortune to take Sir WUliam Berkeley
prisoner, I would have disdained to make a show of him."
He was fatally wounded by one of his guards. His remains
were probably buried in the old graveyard.

Inrk OHitttrli Submit
The church was rebuilt after Bacon's Eebellion, but gradu
ally fell into disuse and ruin about the end of the seven
teenth century. Within its nave and chancel many un
known dead are interred. An ironstone tablet, with inlaid
brasses missing, lies with its head to the north, thus giving
rise to the theory that it is a cenotaph. The time-honored
custom of Christian burials, to place the feet toward the ris
ing sun, was formerly universally observed. To some the
channeling in the stone of the head indicates a helmet. The
impression made by the coat-of-arms is very distinct. It
has been suggested that possibly it was in memory of Gover
nor Sir George Yeardley. He died at Jamestown in 1627.

inmttttntt nf Utrgmta 25
The tombstone of Eev. John Clough, who was minister
during Bacon's Eebellion (1676), has the only legible in
scription. He was a supporter of Berkeley's, was captured
by Bacon and condemned to death, but was pardoned, and
died at Jamestown in January, 1683.
In excavating there was found in the chancel a skeleton
six feet six inches tall.
The old graveyard lies immediately around the church.
In 1898 several skeletons were found by the caving in of a
part of the bank near the river, and in completing the sea
wall in 1905 one other skeleton was brought to light, proving
that "God's Acre" originally extended several hundred feet
further than the present enclosure. There are signs of graves
immediately outside the wall. This wall was built during
th€ early part of the eighteenth century, from the ruined
walls of the last church. That the graveyard is very ancient
is proven by finding a human skeleton buried across the line
of foundations of the first brick ehurch (1639-44). As the
frajne building of 1618 was built on almost the same ground,
it is probably the original burying ground.
"Beneath those rugged elms, that yew tree's shade,
Wbere heaves the turf in many a moldering heap,
Each in his narrow cell forever laid.
The rude forefathers of the hamlet sleep."
Vith a thought of the irony of fate we muse,
"Of high and low condition,
Just and unjust,
The patient and physician
All turned to dust."

26 (Unlntttal (Hapttalfl nf t\^
Among the legible tombstone inscriptions is that of Wil
liam Sherwood, who directed in his will that his body "be
buried at the east end of the church at James City, without
the walls" — and "that my good friend Jeffry Jeffreys of Lon
don, Esq., Do send a gravestone to be laid upon my grave
with this Inscription, here lies William Sherwood, that was
born in the Parish of White Chappell, near London, a great
sinner waiting for a Joyfull Eesurrection." His epitaph
testifies that this part of his will was carried out to the letter.
Of Mrs Hannah Ludwell it is written,
"After a most exemplary Life
Spent in Cheerful Innocence
Ajid the continual Exercise of
Piety, Charity, and Hospitality
She Patiently Submitted
Death on the 4th Day of April 1731 in 52d Year of Her Age."
One of the freaks of nature is noticed in an enormous old
sycamore which has grown between the graves of Dr. Jaines
Blair and his wife, Sarah Blair, trying its best to cause a di
vorce. The graves are side by side. In the tree's effort to
grow, it caught in the side of Mrs. Blair's tomb, shatter
ing both stones to such an extent that large fragments have
been broken off. In 1807, during the second centennial cele
bration, this sycamore was noticed as a young tree.
Dr. Blair's tombstone inscription reads:
"His sepultus est
Vir Reverendus et Honorabilia
JACOBUS BLAIE, A. M.
Qui
In Scotia natus
In Academia Edinburgensi nutritus,

inmtnintt nf Utrgtuta 27

Primo Angaliam deinde Virginiam
Venit:
Qua Parte Tenarum
Annos LVIII. Evangelii Preconis
LIV. Commissarii
Gulielmi et Mariae praesidis,
e Britanniae Principum
Consilarii
Concillii Preasidis
Coloniae Prefecti
munera sustinuit:
ornavit
um oris venusti Decus,
ate haliri sine ( ?) hospital!
munificent
issimo egenis largo,
omnibus comi
superavit,
Collegio bene devioram
Fundaverat
eus Bibliothe cani suam
id aleudum Theologiae studiosum
juventutum pauperiorum instituendam
Testamento legavit
Cal. Maii in die
MDCCXLIII
aetat: LXXXVIII.
am desideratissimi
Seuis Laudem
is nepotibus commedabunt
pene marmore perenniora."
Dr. Blair was minister at Jamestown, commissary to the
Bishop of London, a member of the Council, founder of Wil
liam and Mary College, its first president, and rector of Bru
ton Church in Williamsburg, the oldest Episcopal Church
in continual use in America.
Here is buried John Ambler, Esq., a member of the Colo
nial Assembly, brother to Jacqueline Ambler, the "Aristotle
of Virginia;" also his brother Edward Ambler and his wife.
These stonee are hardly legible, but have been identified

28 (ilnlnttial (dapttala nf thjS
as the group in the northeast comer of the yard. Mrs. Ed
ward Ambler was Mary Cary, Washington's young sweet
heart, and Mrs. Jacqueline Ambler, formerly Eebecca Bur
well, rejected Thomas Jefferson.
Here were found fragments of the tombstone of Lady
Frances Berkeley, wife of the colonial govemor. Though
married three times she always called herself Lady Berkeley.
Several members of the Ludwell family, Ursula Beverly,
daughter of William Byrd, and Mrs. Elizabeth Drummond
of Bacon's Eebellion fame, have here their last resting place.
During the second centennial celebration in 1807 we are
told that they buried in the graveyard a young man who
died from heat and "the too free use of ice in cyder." It
was at this time that steps were taken for adopting resolu
tions toward making the thirteenth of May an annual holi
day for the state. This anniversary was celebrated by the
citizens of the neighboring towns. Thirty-two sailing
vessels brought the crowd, which consisted of over four
hundred ladies. An eloquent prayer by Bishop Madison
began the opening exercises. At its conclusion "pious tears
were seen hanging on many a cheek furrowed by age or
adomed with youthful bloom." Orations were delivered by
Briscoe G. Baldwin and John Madison, odes by C. K. Blan
chard and Leroy Anderson, students at WiUiam and Mary
College. Leaving the resting place of this "bygone generation"
and passing through the Confederate fort and an open space

RIIXS OF STATE HOl-SE AXD LUDWELL HOUSES AT JAMESTOWN.

Inmttttntt nf Hirgtttta 29
to the next ridge, we find the largest group of foundations
remaining. They have been established as the ruins of the
third and fourth State Houses, three houses belonging to
Philip Ludwell, and the so-called "Country House."
BMt l|o«j8?
The third and fourth State Houses were built on the same
site (eastern end of the ruins). Their foundations indi
cate that it was a symmetrical building with a square porch
in front — facing the south — and with a porch and two niches
in the back, which may have been either bay-windows or fire
places. There is no indication of the latter in any other
part. From the numerous heated discussions which took
place here, by the great lights among the Nation's founders,
the fireplaces were hardly necessary.
The third State House was built ih 1666. It was ta front
of this building that Bacon drew up his little band, demand
ing of Govemor Berkeley a commission which had been re
peatedly denied and put off, that he might protect the
settlers from Indian attack and massacre. The old Govemor,
his conscience smiting him and thinking that Bacon's time
for revenge had come, rushed out of the State House and
baring his breast to the soldiers cried dramatically, "Here,
shoot me, fore God, fair mark, shoot!" "Sir," Bacon re
plied, "We came here for a commission against the heathen
who daily murder us and spill our brethren's blood, and not
to fight you. My sword shall rast in its scabbard before
even a hair of your head is touched."

30 (dnlnmal Qlattttala nf %
Even then the Governor declined to grant the request,
and the muskets of the troops were promptly leveled at the
windows from which the alarmed Burgesses fled in confusion,
crying, "For God's sake, hold your hands and forbear a
little, and you shall have what you please." Finally the
Governor was induced to give the demanded commission,
but no sooner were Bacon and his men on their way to fight
the Indians than he denounced them as traitors.
The next year the house was bumed with the rest of the
town by Bacon's men as a protection agauist the tyrannical
Governor, though we are told that William Drummpnd,
Bacon's friend, took the precaution to save the records in the
secretary's office. It was Drummond who set fire to his own
house, and whose wife, picking up a straw and breaking it
said, "I fear the power of England no more than a broken
straw." Tradition says that a year or two later he was
captured and condemned to execution by Berkeley. As he
was led into the room the latter exclaimed, "You are very
welcome, Mr. Drummond. I am more glad to see you than
any man in Virignia. You shall hang in half an hour."
From this time until 1686 the "King's Council" met in
one of the numerous taverns. A writer of that day tells us
that "about a dozen families" were in the habit of "getting
their livings by keeping of ordinaries, at extraordinary
rates."* A story is told of a smiall company of British soldiers sent
to protect Berkeley. Seeing a great quantity of "Jamestown
*Mrs. Ann Cotton.

inmttttntt nf Birstttta 31
Weed " growing, and thinking it was a salad, they boiled it
for a meal. It made such fools of them, that they had to be
locked up for several days, until their reason returned.
The fourth State House, as before mentioned, was built
about 1686 on the same site. It continued in use until it
was bumed in 1698. It was never rebuilt, and the capital
was moved to Williamsburg the following year.

ICuJiutHl I|O«0?

Next to the State House are the three house ruins be
longing to Philip Ludwell, the third husband of Berkeley's
widow, and Govemor of North Carolina. He had the con
tract for building the fourth State House.
All of these Ludwell houses, including the Country House,
at the end of the row, show where large fireplaces of about
eight feet were placed. Several of the cellars are paved and
that of the third house, next to the river, contains a brick
pit — probably a well.
On one side of its cellar, and also to the cellar of the
"Country House," steps lead down. When excavated in 1903
several sheets of melted lead, two bombshells, fragments of
exploded shells, a pipe, scissors, steel sewing thimble, copper
candle-stick, ladies' riding stirrup, and an old bottle, all of
very quaint and curious appearance, were found. These
things are preserved under the tower ruin by the caretaker
of the A. P. V. A's. The brick work is the same as that
of the church.

32 Olnlntttal (dapttala nf %
The "Country House" was probably so called because it
was owned by the Country or Colony.
(§ih Hanbmarka
Near these ruins are an old well and an ancient pear tree.
About three hundred feet in the river, and on a straight line
from the sea-wall, an old cypress tree stands sentinel, help
ing the eye to better judge the extent of the Island washed
away. At low tide the water around it is very shallow. The
original shore line was about 180 feet further out.
Along the south river bank are seen some gnarled and
crooked mulberry trees, descendants perhaps of those planted
in 1621 when it was made compulsory by statute in order to
introduce the silk industry. Foreign workmen were imported
to teach the art. In 1668 Berkeley sent a present of silk to
Charles II, which was woven into a coronation robe.
Mm of Not0
On this western end of the Island lived a number of men
of note in the Colony,* among whom were Eobert Beverly,
the historian; Eichard Lawrence, Bacon's friend and com
patriot; two consecutive Philip Ludwells; Lieu. Edward Eoss;
and Colonel Nathaniel Bacon, Sr., second cousin to the
patriot of that name. The foundations of a ruined chimney
mark the site of his dwelling, just east of the Confederate
Fort.
*The Site of Old "James Towne," page 41.

Inmttttntt nf Htrgtttia 33
The part of the Island extending east of the tower ruin
for about three-eighths of a mile was built up at a little later
date. It was known as "New Towne" and was probably
begun under Governor Sir Greorge Yeardley, who entered
upon his administration during 1619. Very little remains to
tell the story. One hundred and fifty feet from the wharf
and one hundred feet from the river are traces of a house
foundation. It was possibly the site of the first State House
used in 1630. Six hundred feet firrther along the river bank
is the site of the Turf Fort, as ascertained by Mr. Young.*
This was the second fort erected, and is described by ancient
writers as quadrangular in plan "with something like Bas
tions at the four corners." No visible traces remain.
Along the river bank was the front street. Eunning just
in front of the Jacqueline-Ambler ruin is what was known
as Back street. Traces of house foundations can be
seen in some places.
Mtqmixm-KmhUt loin
The Jacqueline-Ambler ruin is practically the only one
east of the tower. The date of it is unknovm, but mention
was made of it in 1807. It was bumed during the Civil War,
was afterwards rebuilt, and burned again in 1896, making
the picturesque and romantic ruin of to-day.
*The Site of Old "James Towne," page 74.

34 (Unlntttal (Hapttala nf %
Here lived Mary Ambler, formerly Mary Cary. The
story goes that when she was first addressed by the young
lieutenant, George Washington, she tossed her head and
said she had no idea of marrying a young lieutenant; and
her father, the noted Colonel Wilson Cary, said for her, to
the future "Father of His Country," "If that is your business
here, sir, I wish you to leave the house, for my daughter has
been accustomed to ride in her own coach." Her lovely face
was said to be very much like that of the widow Custis.
Among the residents of this part of the town were Gov
emor Sir George Yeardley, Gov. Sir. Francis Wj-att, Dr.
Potts, "Physician General to the Colony," Captain Ealph
Hamor, secretaiy of State and Chronicler, George Sandys,
America's first poet. Captain Eoger Smith, Captain Eichard
Stevens, William Sherwood, Attorney General, and a number
of others whose deeds and valor are written deep in the
history, not only of this small Island, but in that of the
whole Nation.

In 1898 the Bishops and Clergy of the Episcopal Church
throughout the United States visited the Island in a body.
They held impressive services near the tower ruin and
erected a stone cross in commemoration of the event.
SIrama lurtal (Btsmnh
In a grove of trees toward the east end of the Island is
the private burial ground of the Travis family. It is a for
saken and neglected spot. Most of the family were buried

Snmttttntt nf lltrgtttta 35
between 1700 and 1759. Only two legible tombstones re
main. The first is carved with a skull and cross bones, and
reads : "Here lyeth in the hope of a glorious Resurrection
the body of JOHN CHAMPION who was borne
the 10th day of November in the yeare of our
Lord 1660 and departed this life the 16th
day of December in the year of our Lord
1700.
And likewise JOHN CHAMPION the son of John
Champion who was borne the 11th day of Dec.
in the yeare of our Lord 1695 and departed
this life the 11th day of September in the yeare
of our Lord 1700."
The other is inscribed: SUSANNA TAVIS wife of
Edward Champion Travis and
Daughter of John Hutchings
of the Borough of Norfolk Mereht
and Amy his Wife who departed
this life October the 28th : 1761 in the
33rd Year of her Age much Lamented
by all her Acquaintance
And leaving Issue three Sons and
one Daughter.
Nigh this Place are also Interred
The Following Children of the said
Edward Travis and Susannah his wife
ELIZABETH who was bom August
24th 1748 and Died September 22d 1749
AMY who was born October Qth 1752
and Died October 2nd 1775
JOHN who was born December 9th 1755
and Died November 25th 1759.

This small dot on the country's map, impressing one with
the thought that "Even the ghosts departed
Long years ago,"

36 Qlnlnnial (Hapttala nf %
embraces in its tiny area hallowed traditions and historical
associations "which shall live and last for aye."

Jour MxU U^nt IfouBip
This is the name given to a plantation originally includ
ing two thousand acres. It is situated on the opposite side
(south) of James river from Jamestown, and four miles
further up. On a hill near the water's edge a handsome
old house overlooks the river. This house with the whole
plantation, was the estate of the Brownes and remained in
their faniily for two hundred years. The first owner, Colonel
Henry Browne, was a member of Sir William Berkeley's
Council in 1643. The house is exceedingly quaint both in
side and out.
In a neax-by gaxden is the seeond oldest tombstone in
Virginia, dated January 7th, 1650. It marks the grave
of Alice Miles, daughter of John Miles, of Branton, Here-
fordshere, and wife of Colonel George Jordan, Attomey
General of Virginia in 1670. The tombstone of Colonel
William Perry of Westover, who died in 1637, is the oldest
in Virginia.
In a field near the house are the ruins of three adobe
houses. It is most unusual to see an adobe house east of the
Mississippi river, and, consequently, there are many sur
mises as to the date of these. It is probable that they were
put up at an early period of colonial history.

inmtttintt nf Utrgmta 37
(^v^tmpvxn^
Eight miles from Williamsburg and four miles distant
from Jamestown there is a large plantation known as Green-
spring. It is approached by a county road from Williams
burg, and a woods road of four miles leading from James
town. This estate was formerly the home of Sir William Berke
ley, governor to the colony in 1642 to 1652, and from 1660
to 1677. The govemor lived luxuriously and entertained
lavishly in his country home. It was a magnificent estate.
The lawn was beautifully terraced. There were shade trees
and flowers of every variety and numerous tropical plants
flourished in hot houses. Traces of the terraces, and masses
of jonquils and narcissusses are all that remain of its former
beauty, while the celebrated dwelling is only a picturesque
ruin. A few of the original out-houses are still to be seen,
and the "very fine, green spring that is upon the land" and
from which the place was named is still one of its features.
It was said that the spring was "so very cold that 'tis danger
ous drinking thereof in the summer time."
After Berkeley's death, his widow and her third husband,
Philip Ludwell I, made Greenspring their home. Two other
Philip Ludwells owned the place, and in the latter part of
his life, Hon. William Lee, who married a daughter of Philip
Llidwell III, lived here. He was minister of the United
States to the courts of Vienna and Berlin. Lord Culpeper,
govemor of the colony in 1680, rented it during his admin
istration.

38 (Unlntttal (Hapttala nf tlje
In 1676, as Bacon was on his way to Jamestown with his
small army, they halted for a few hours in the fields of
Gjreenspring. Bacon made them a short address, ending with
the words, "Come on, my hearts of Gold; he that dies in the
field of battle sleeps on the bed of honor." As they proceeded
to Jamestown, they captured the wives of the prominent men
who sided with Berkeley, and in order to have time to erect
breastworks the women were placed in front of the line as a
protection against the gims of the enemy. When the latter
were ready to fire, there was a line of white aprons fluttering
in the breeze, and, naturally, no man wished to shoot his
own wife, so Bacon's ruse was successful.
It was the next year, after the death of their valiant leader
in Gloucester county, that Berkeley had Bacon's men arrest
ed as traitors and brought to Greenspring for a pretended
trial. Jamestown at that time was in ashes. The verdict
in each instance was the same, death by hanging, notwith
standing the entreaty of friends and relatives. The gallant
Colonel Hansford, young, bright and handsome, asked to be
shot like a soldier. The Governor refused, saying, "You shall
die like a rebel." So wholesale was the slaughter that not
only were the people of Virginia disgusted but the king of
England and his subjects as well. The old tyrant went over
to England soon after his brutalities and met with so much
coldness and discourtesy that he died of mortification a few
months later.
Across a part of the lawn and in the neighboring fields
are the remains of breastworks thrown up a little over a

janmtnintt nf Btrginta 39
hundred years later, during the closing year of the Eevolu
tion. Com\^allis and Lafayette had a short skirmish in the
old fields. The latter was defeated and the British general
pushed on to Jamestown, where he crossed the river and pro
ceeded to Yorktown.

tUiamaburg B

"'© ta matt a mnrat J>wJ» tn ht
®ljp 'tljtttga tljat Ijatte bwn' van tn tttaate,
Attb ttt tljf tmttteantng preapttt atttk ttf? jiaat :
3(n tuljnae iitm glaaa sbitt nam 3 faintly reait
Wlh hnripJii fnrttia attJi farw ln«g agn"

3lttJ»tx tn iiap nf Uilltamabtirg, Virginia.
A. Old Stage Road or "Kings Highway."
B. Eoad to Greenspring and Jamestown.
C. Road to College Creek, leading to James River.
D. Road to Queens Creek, leading to York River.
E. Road to Yorktown.
1. William and Mary College, 1693.
2. Erafiferton — formerly Indian School, 1723.
3. President's House, 1732. Rebuilt by Louis XVI.
4. Blair House.
5. Bruton Episcopal Churoh, 1715.
6. Wythe House.
7. Dunmore's Cave.
8. Audrey's House.
9. Palace Green.
10. Court House, 1769.
11. House in which Lafayette was entertained. (Now occupied by
Mayor Warburton.)
12. Brick Hotel.
13. Powder Horn, 1714.
14. Baptist Church. Built in 1856 with the bricks of the Powder
Hom wall for foundation.
15. Paradise House, about 1760.
16. Old House.
17. Ancient Masonic Temple.
18. Site of Old Ealeigh Tavem. Bumed in 1859.
19. Vest House. (In which Lafayette's officers were entertained.)
20. Clerk's or Chancery Office. Has been added to and made a home.
21. Ruins of the House of Burgesses. Bumed in 1832.
22. Site of the first Theatre in America, 1716.
23. Peyton Randolph's home.
24. Tazewell Hall. (Home of Edmund Randolph.)
25. Martha Washington's Kitchen.
26. Eastern State Hospital, 1768.
27. Debtor's Prison.
28. Bassett Hall.
29. Cary House — Where George Washington and George Fairfax
went courting.
30. Custis House — In which the Colonial Govemor Dinwiddie was
entertained while the palace was undergoing repairs.
(Now owned by Mrs. Hansford.)
31. Old House — Oldest part built in 1761. (Now occupied by the
Misses Garrett.)
32. Old House — Contains an old wine cellar and very large brick
fireplaces.
33. Old House — Said to have been the home of "Blackbeard," the
pirate who was killed under Spotswood's administration
(1710-23), and thirteen of his men hung in Williamsburg.

MAP OF WIL

HtUtamsburg

* tib *

OE the appreciative visitor to this "village
J city," Williamsburg has a five-fold interest
in its unique character and atmosphere, its
age, quaint architecture, historic associations,
and the romantic lustre which brightens the
pages in many novels of Virginia's most
talented writers.
This small city of twenty-five hundred
inhabitants, boasting of a charter from royal
hands, has a character at once distinctive
and engaging.
Enfolded with an atmosphere of peace-
fulness, it forms an inviting retreat.
The town was laid out and paled in by the colonial Gov
ernor Sir John Harvey in 1632 and was known as Middle
Plantation. In 1698 streets were laid out by Governor
Frances Nicholson, and the town named in honor of the
first of the reigning sovereigns, Williani and Mary. After
the burning of the State House at Jamestown, the seat of
government was removed to WiUiamsburg by Goveraor

44 Olnlntttal (Sa)tttala nf tl\s
Mcholson in 1699. From then until the capital was re
moved to Eichmond in 1779, Williamsburg was in its pris
tine glory, "most families of any note having a coach, chariot,
beriin or chaise." A contemporaneous writer* teUs us that
"at balls and assembUes, I have seen as fine an appearance,
as good diversion, and as splendid entertainment in Gov.
Spotswood's time as I have seen anywhere else." The
people, he says, "can discourse handsomely on most common
subjects" ; that they had the "shortest and best methods" of
doing the most ordinary things, were quick and "of excellent
sense." Of the public buildings he said, "They are justly reputed
the best in all English America, and are exceeded by few of
their kind in England." By 1776, "The houses, niostly
wooden, number less than one hundred." "The streets were
unpaved and dusty — ^the soil being sandy." The side-walks
were hard white marl until paved during the summer of
1905. The town is situated on the elevated peninsula between
the historic James and York rivers; so necessarily there was
a great difference in the healthfulness of the first capital
and this second one. There were no mosquitoes and the air
was "serene and temperate." Even during the summer
months it was said that one could keep very comfortable,
"especially if there be windows enough to draw the air."
Even as to-day, there was an "easy way of Uving and the
•Hugh Jones' "Present State of Virginia,"

Sntitttttnn nf Utrgtttta 45
heat of the summer makes some very lazy, who are then said
to be climate struck."
Not many years ago it might have been said with a good
deal of truth that the people of this little town lived in the
present only to dream of the past and future.
That it has a past of which it is justly proud is verified
by the names of the streets, caUed after royal favorites of
long ago, the kitchen of Martha Washington and even the
elm tree said to be planted by her own hands.
The historic incidents and traditions cluster principally
around Duke of Gloucester and its two parallel streets,
Francis and Mcholson, called after the colonial governor
who laid them out. England, Scotland, TazeweU and Pic
cadilly have a colonial association.
Duke of Gloucester, the colonial boulevard, is the main
street. It is about three-fourths of a mUe in length, ninety feet
wide, and lined on both sides with shade trees. A student of
William and Mary College, in a letter describing the town
in 1804, said, "Indeed I never saw and I think there cannot
be a more elegant street anywhere than the Main street is."
The lamp-posts extend down the middle of the street. At
one end are the foundations of the House of Burgesses; at
the other, William and Mary College.
Facing the College, the road to the right is known as the
old Stage Eoad or "King's Highway." It was over this
road that Washington journeyed to and fro from Mt. Vernon,
that Eandolph, Lee, Pendleton, and numerous others traveled

46  (Unlnntal CHapttala nf t\^
on their way to PhUadelphia to the first Continental Con
gress; over this road ran the first mail route, estabUshed
during Spotswood's time. Gov. Spotswood was Postmaster
General of the Colony for a number of years. It was over
this road that he passed with his "Knights" on that memor
able first journey across the Blue Eidge Mountains of Vir
ginia. The order "Knights of the Golden Horse- Shoe" established
by the gallant Governor in commemoration of the event was
the iirst purely American organization. A smaU gold horse
shoe, set with jewels and inscribed with the motto, "Sic
juvat transcendere montes," was presented to each Knight.
The expedition is charmingly described in iliss Johnston's
romantic novel "Audrey." A small quaint house on Dun
more street is often pointed out to visitors to this old town,
as the mythical home of Audrey, the heroine. Scratched on
one of the tiny window-panes in the house are the initials
Spotswood established the first iron works in America,
thus getting the name of "Tubal Cain" of Virginia.
The road to the left of the College leads to Jamestown and
Greenspring. It is associated very closely with Audrey.
Where the road forks, Washington met Lafayette for the

WILLIAM AND MARY COLLEGE.

Sntnmtnn nf jffirgtttta 47
first time. The story goes that they were both on horse
back. Washington extended his hand in greeting. The
youthful Frenchman was so overcome by his emotions that
he leaned over and kissed the gallant American general.
HtUtam anb ilarg ColUg^
It seems very fitting that the triangle enclosed by these
two historic roads should be occupied by the venerable Col
lege of WiUiam and Mary. The campus of green grass and
old shade trees forms a pleasing setting for this second oldest
institution of learning in the United States. It was founded
in 1693 through the effort of Eev. James Blair, D. D.,* its
first President and rector of the Church at Jamestown and
of Bruton Church in Williamsburg.
Sir Christopher Wren, the famous English architect who
introduced the pure Eenaissance ia England in the building
of St. Paul's Cathedral,, drew the plans , for this Colonial
institution, though they were remodeled to suit the conveni
ence of a new land. It is unpretentious in style, built of old,
red and blue glazed bricks, and presents a very ancient ap- ,
pearance for this new country of ours. An old letter dated
from WUliamsburg in 1804 and written by a very critical
young man, reads, in describiag the building, "The person
Sir Christopher Wren, who planned it, has not manifested
an exquisite taste for the beauties of architecture. Mr. Jef
ferson, ia speaking of it, calls it a rude, misshapen pile, which,
*Tomb at Jamestown, see page 26.

48 (Enlnntal ©apttala nf tlj?
but for its roof, woiUd be taken for a common briek-
kUn. It certainly is not an elegant structure, but it is easUy
distinguishable from a brick-kUn." Jefferson has also said
that his destiny in life was fixed while a student at WUUam
and Mary College by Dr. Small, "the illustrious professor of
mathematics." The CoUege charter was given by WUliam and Mary, with
the understanding "that the Church of Virginia may be
furnished with a seminary of ministers of the Gospel, and
that the youth may be piously educated ia good letters and
manners, and that the Christian religion may be propagated
among the Western Indians, to the glory of Alraighty God."
The College was named in honor of these reigning sovereigns,
and the college colors are orange and white, complimentary
to the House of Orange. The charter endowed the CoUege
with "the whole and entire sum of one thousand, niae
hundred and eighty-five pounds fourteen shUlings and ten
pence, of good and lawful money of England, that has been
raised out of the quit-rents of said colony." It was also to
have a penny a pound on all tobacco exported from Virginia
or Maryland. A chancellor, president or rector, and six
professors composed the faculty and besides there was a
board of eighteen visitors. There was only one condition
attached to this Uberal charter and that was that the College
authorities pay annually "to us and to our successors two
copies of Latia verse yearly on the fifth day of November at
the House of the Governor or Lieutenant-Governor for the
time beiag." The Virginia Gazette contains numerous no-

Sntntnum nf Utrgtttia 49
tiees which testify that this condition was fulfiUed to the
letter. A notice in the November Gazette of 1736 states:
"On this day s'en night, being the fifth day of November,
the president, masters and scholars of WUliam and Mary
College went, according to their annual custom, in a body,
to present his Honor two copies of Latin verse in obedience
to their charter. Mr. President delivered the verses to his
Honor, and two of the young gentlemen spoke them."
The chapel in the rear was built at a later date, William
Byrd of Westover having the contract. Its walls are lined
with paintings of the distinguished men who have here per
fected and given their talents to their Alma Mater, and have
exerted a great influence upon the history of their country.
Under the College chapel are buried Eev. James Madison,
D. D., cousin to the president of the United States, bishop
of the Episcopal church, and president of the College for a
number of years; Sir John Eandolph, and his two illustri
ous sons, John, attorney general of Virginia from 1766-75,
and Peyton, president of the first American Congress, and
a prominent memjber of the Virginia House of Burgesses.
Peyton Eandolph was buried here in 1776. Here also is the
last resting place of Lord Botetourt, governor of Virginia in
1768-70. The inscription on the monument which stands
on the College campus shows how dearly he was beloved and
honored by the Americans. It was erected in 1774 by the
House of Burgesses and bears the following inscription:
"The Eight Honorable Norborne Berkeley Baron de Bote
tourt, his Majesty's late Lieutenant, and Governor-General
of the Colony and Dominion of Virginia."

50 Cdnlntttal CQ^attttala nf t^
(Eight side) "Deeply impressed with the warmest sense
of gratitude for his Excellency's, the Right Honorable Lord
Botetourt's prudent and wise administration, and that the
remembrance of those many public and social virtues which
so eminently adorned his illustrious character might be
transnutted to posterity, the General Assembly of Virginia
on the XX day of July Ann. Dom. MDCCLXXI. resolved
with one united voice to erect this stature to his Lordship's,
mjemory. Let wisdom and justice preside in any country
the people must and will be happy."
(Left side) "America, behold your friend, who, leaviag
his native country, declined those additional honors which
were there in store for him, that he might heal your wounds
and restore tranquillity and happiness to this extensive conti
nent. With what zeal and anxiety he pursued these glorious
objects, Virgiaia thus bears her grateful testimony."
Duriag the Civil War the copper name-plate was taken
off the cofiSn and carried away. It was found in a junk shop
in New York in recent years and sent to the president of
William and Mary College, who placed it in the curio case in
the college library. Very shortly after, an old house in the
town was being repaired and iaside the plaster was found a
Virgiaia Gazette of 1770 describiag the funeral service which
was held in Bruton Church, and the burial under the College
Chapel. After the burning of the State House at Jamestown the
Burgesses met in the College for four years, until the Capi
tol could be built. The College was burned three times, — in

Intntttintt nf Htrgtnta 51
1705 — 1859 — 1863 — but each time was restored on the same
brick walls.
William and Mary was the first College in America to
have chairs of Law, Political Economy, Modern Languages,
and History; the first to announce the elective and honor
systems, and to introduce class lectures. The Botetourt
medals were the first collegiate medals awarded. The Phi
Beta Kappa Fratemity, established here in 1776, was the
first Greek letter fraternity in the United States. The old
mlinute book of the fraternity and the iron dies of the first
Botetourt medal are among the relics preserved in the library.
A copy of the first edition of Thomson's "Seasons" — 1736-
30, Livy's "Prentes in Vinnice" — 1498, some of the early
magazines published in 1763 by the Eoyal Magazine, or
Gentlemen's Monthly Companion, comprise the oldest lit
erature ia the College Library. Catesby's Natural History
of the Carolinas, Florida and the Bahama Islands, printed
with colored plates in two volumes, in London, was given by
Thomas Jefferson on condition that it should never go out
of the library. There are about 10,000 books altogether,
many presented by the royal governors, and embellished with
coats-of-arms. Some have been given by the different presi
dents of the College.
Many distinguished men have had a part in the making
of this grand old institution. George Washington was the
first chancellor of the College after the Eevolution. John
Tyler, another President of the United States, was a stu
dent, and later chancellor. James Monroe and Jefferson,

52 ainlnnial Olapttala nf ttf?
presidents of the United States, were both students here,
and the latter a member of the Board of Visitors. Chan
cellor George Wythe was a student and professor of law.
His pupils. Chief Justice Marshall and Jefferson, not only
reflected honor upon him, themselves, and Virginia, but the
whole United States. Edmund Eandolph, secretary, and
governor of Virginia, and Peyton Eandolph, the first presi
dent of the Continental Congress, were both among its stu
dents. Gen. Winfield Scott, and a number of eminent men
of letters, not only of a later day, but of the present as weU,
claim with love and honor this historic and celebrated iasti-
tution, for their Alma Mater.
Iraffeton
To the left of the main buUding is the Brafferton, now one
of the College dormitories but formerly the first permanent
Indian school in Amieriea.
In 1691 both William and Mary, and Harvard colleges
fell heir to the estate of Hon. Eobert Boyle, who died in
England. From William and Mary's share of the funds
the Brafferton estate in Yorkshire, England, was bought
and the rents used to establish and support the Indian school,
which was kept up until the Bevolution, when the rents
ceased. This school has been described by a contemporaneous
writer* in the following quaint style: — "The Indians who
are upon Mr. Boyle's foundation have now a handsome
*Hugh Jones' "Present State of Virginia."

Intnttttntt nf ISirgtnta 53
apartment for themselves and their master, built near the
College. The young Indians procured from the tributary or
foreign nations with much difficulty were formerly boarded
or lodged in the town, where abundance of them used to
die, either through sickness, change of provision, and way
of life; or, as some will have it often for want of proper
necessaries, and due care taken with them. Those of them
that have escaped well, and have been taught to read and
write, for the most part return to their home, some with,
and some without, baptism, where they follow their own
savage customs and heathenish rites. A few of them have
lived as servants among the English, or loitered and idled
away their time in laziness and mischief. But it is a great
pity that more care is not taken of them after they are dis
missed from school. They have admirable capacities when
their humors and tempers are perfectly understood."
A portrait of Mr. Boyle hangs on the walls of the College
library. Across from the Brafferton is the president's home. It is a
substantial dwelling of old brick, adorned with a colonial
porch and a late Eenaissance roof. This house was used by
Lord Cornwallis for headquarters shortly before the York-
town campaign. It was built in 1732, was accidently bumed
by the French on their way to Yorktown, and was rebuilt
by Louis XVI out of his private funds, thus being the only
house in Virginia, and perhaps in the United States, buUt
by a reigning sovereign.

54 (Unlntttal QIapttala nf ttf?

As we pass along the colonial boulevard, a long frame
structure, low and dilapidated, arrests our attention. The
very sharp roof and dormer windows testify to the fact that
it was buUt when property was taxed according to the num
ber of stories in a buildiag. This old residence was formerly
the home of the Hon. John Blair, appointed by Washington
judge of the United States Supreme Court.
It is also said that John Marshall, the first Chief Justice
of the United States, lived in the old house for a while. A
great many characteristic anecdotes are told of this most
famous of American jurists. It was always his habit to go
to market every morning, carrying his own basket, and bring
ing home his own purchases. One day he heard a very dapper
young man near him swearing in extremely round terms
because he had no one to take home a turkey he had just
bought. The Chief Justice offered his service, which was
promptly accepted, and he trudged along with the turkey,
behind the young man for a num?3er of blocks. The destina
tion reached, Marshall refused the proffered piece of money
but gave without the asking a most practical lesson on false
pride. Another time he was driving through a woods road when
further progress was impeded by a faUen tree. He simply
sat in his buggy until help arrived in a young negro boy
who led the horse around the tree without any difficulty.
Judge Marshall promised to leave a coin at the next corner
store for the boy, who promptly remarked to the store

BLAIR HOUSE.

^^lA^

BRUTON CHtTRCH.

Snmintnn nf Birstnta 55
keeper on its receipt, "That old man sho'ly is a gentleman,
if he ain't got much sense."
Srtttott Olljurrlj
Bruton Church in this ancient capital of WUliamsburg,
is more iatimately associated with colonial history than any
other church in Virginia, and perhaps in America. It is
the successor to the mother church at Jamestown, and its
historical and sacred associations should make it dear to
the hearts of all patriotic Americans.
Within its walls have worshipped five presidents of the
United States, Washington, Jefferson, Madison, Monroe,
and Tyler. Here on a Sabbath morn came the colonial
governors and members of the House of Burgesses, Wythe,
Bland, Lee, Pendleton, Mason, Marehall, and a number of
other "founders and defenders of the American Nation,"
some of whose names appear a number of times as vestry
men and communicants. Through its historic portals
passed all the wealth, grace, beauty and genius of Virgiaia,
to do honor to God and themselves.
The church derived its name from the parish, the latter
probably named in honor of Governor Berkeley or the Lud
wells, who were from Bruton, Somerset county, England.
Thom(as Ludwell, Esq., is buried at the north door of the
church, and his epitaph testifies to the truth of this as his
birth-place. It is the oldest Episcopal church in continual use in Amer
ica. The parish was founded in 1632. Very little is

56 Cnlnttial Capttala nf tf^e
known of the first church except the fact that there was
one before 1665, and it probably was a small frame struc
ture. The second church built of brick was erected in 1683.
The land was given by Col. John Page. A beautiful memorial
window in the east end of the church was presented in recent
years by some of his descendants. The present buUding is
in the form of a Eoman cross with a tower entrance. It is
buUt with low walls of red and blue glazed brick, over which
clings tenderly the ivy of years. It was designed by Gov
ernor Alexander Spotswood and finished ia 1715. His pew
was raised from the floor slightly, a sUk canopy draped over
it, and around the top the Governor's name written in gold
letters. A writer of that day tells us that the church was "adorned
as the best churches in London."*
There are a number of tablets in memory of departed men
of distinction. Those datiag back to pre-Eevolutionary days
are: — a Mural Tablet to "ge f^on'"'* Sanwl Parke of ge
Qlountg of lEfiaex Eaq. talfn teas out nf Ifta iMa:*"' (Houtt-
HpllerH anb Bomettmea aetretarg of Itje CHolong of 'Btrg:'' Ije
Sieb ge Btlj of ilartlj Anno IBrS."
Another reads: —
SnBcribeb to tl|p uiemorH nf
Sr. Mtlliam Cdorke
An Engltatj pijgaitian. born of repntable Parents
*Hugh Jones. Present State of Virginia.

Somitttnn nf Btrdittta 57
at 9ubburg in ^ufiTolk
anb Sbncateb at (j^ueenB CHoUege. Cambribge.
I^e urna learneb anb (loUte,
of tnbts]ntteb aktll tn ifta profeaaion.
of unbounbeb ^eneroaitg in ijitB inractire:
teljirfl mnltitubea. get aliae, tan teatitg—
l^e toaa, mang geara. of ttjie Qlolong
iin tife 5Reign of Q^neen Ann $: of SCing (iSeorge.
I^e bieb ^nbbenlg, sitting a 3ubge upon tlje Senrtf
of tl;e (leneral (Honrt in ti|e dapitol.
itSCHCXX
l^ia ifon : frienb Alex' g'^otamoob. ^sif. tljen (Bav'.
ioitl; tife {trinrifal Gentlemen of tl;e Country.
attenbeb Ijia funeral.
anb. weeping, aam tlje Cttorpa Suterreb
at tlje Heat aibe of tlje AUar
in tlfia OHfurtlr."
A number of people, including the Eev. Eowland Jones,
"Pastor Primus and delectissimus," and "The Body of Mr.
Orlando Jones," the son of Eev. Eowland Jones, the first
pastor of the church on record, are buried under the chan
cel. The colonial governors, Francis Fauquier and Ed
mund Jenings, are buried under the aisle, but no tablet or
monument to Fauquier's memory remains. The fact was
established through an old number of the Virginia Gazette,
which gave an account of the funeral service and interment.
During the summer of 1905, while the work of restoration
was going on, brass tacks forming the letters E. J. 1727
were found on a piece of coffia under the church. They

58 Olnlnmal QIapttala nf tljt
were taken to stand for Edmund Jenings, as that was the
year of his death. The fee in 1&64 for burial in the chancel
was 1,000 pounds of tobacco, or 5 poimd sterUng; in the
church, 500 pounds of tobacco or 50 shillings in money.
Tradition says that the baptismal font now in use was
brought from the church at Jamestown. Some romantic
spirits, contrary to history and Captain John Smith, delight
in the pretty sentiment that the Indian maiden Poca
hontas was baptised from it.
Eecently, when the church windows were undergoing re
pairs, the negro sexton asked the rector if he was not afraid
someone might break into the church and steal "Miss Poca
hontas' sprinkling pot."
It was ordered in 1716 "tljat tlje ilen aitt on tlje NortI|
aibe of tlje QUjurrly. anb tlje Women on tlje left" Again in
1718 the gallery ia the west end was set apart "for tlje use
of ItjeOIoUebge ^oullj," and in order to give them plenty of
room, a door was put to the stairs leading up and provided
with a lock and key, the latter carried by the sexton.
Among the relics of the past which are carefully pre
served, is the old Parish Eegister. A large number of pages
are torn from the front and back of the book. It now eon-
tains the records of births dating from 1739 to 1797, and of
deaths from 1662 to 1761.
There are three quaint and very handsome Commun
ion Services. The oldest consists of three pieces with the
following inscription on each piece : "Mixt not Ijolg tljinga

Intttttttntt nf Utrgtnta 59
MJitlj profane. ?Ex bono frantiari ilorriaon, Armigen. Anno
9omi, IBBl." It was given to the church at Jamestown
by Francis Morrison, who was then acting-governor.
The second service is a handsomely embellished two-hand
led cup with the cover, and a small patten. The cup is
engraved on one side with the Stanton arms, was left to
William and Mary College by Lady Gooch, the daughter of
William Stanton, Esq., but is commonly known as the Queen
Anne Service.
The King George Service consists of three pieces, fiagon,
chalice, and alms basin. The Eoyal Arms are engraved
on each piece between the initials G III — E. wi!th the
motto, "Honi soit qui inal •y pense."
King Edward VII has recently given a bible to the
church, which will be presented when the work of restora
tion has been completed.
In comnuemoration of the three hundredth anniversary of
the nation's birth. President Eoosevelt has presented a lec
tern on which the bible is to rest. Each pew is to be a
memorial to individual members of the House of Burgesses
and the other eminent men associated with the history of the
church and the country.
From the tall brick tower the faint peals of the bell have
called us to worship for nearly a century and a half. On
it is engraved "Slje gift of 3ameB Slarplg to Sruton Partalj.
IfBl." Notwithstanding the inscription and date a pretty
story is told of the bell. Once when Queen Anne with
her retinue was passing through the streets of London, her

60 (Enlnmal (Ea^iitala nf tl;^
attention was drawn to a crowd collected around a foundry.
Upon askiag what ^as being cast, she was told that it was
a bell for one of the churches ia "Her Majesty's Dominion
of Virginia." The Queen impulsively drew off her
bracelets, rings and other jewelry, and threw them into the
glowing mjass, from which came the bell with its sUvery
tones.* The high brick wall around the churchyard was built in
1754 by Samuel Spurr of Williamsburg. In many parts it is
overgrown with ivy. The old trees, the tangle of wild rose
and honeysuckle, the antique and quaintly shaped tombstones
of a bygone generation, form a pleasing and lasting impres
sion. Among the monuments many have coat-of-arms en
graved and Latin inscriptions. Some are interesting from
the quaint expressions and verses which give an insight into
the lives of the people of that early day.
The fee to the sexton in the early period of the church's
history was ten pounds of tobacco for each grave dug.
The Custis children, Washington's step-chUdren, are buried
near the north door in the churchyard. Near Thomas Lud
well "lye the bodies of Eichard Kempe, Esq., his Prede
cessor in ye Secretary's Office and Sir Thomas Lunsford Kt."
Eichard Kempe was a member of the Virginia Council in
1642 at Jamestown and Secretary of the Colony for a num
ber of years. He officiated as govemor for three years
while Berkeley was ia England^ It was under him that the

*A8 Queen Anne died in 1714, this tradition should belong to the
first bell.

BRUTON CHURCHYARD.

Sntnuttnn nf HirsUtta 61
first Thanksgiving Days in the Colony, of which there is
any record, were celebrated, and during whose administra
tion it was ordered, "That the eighteenth day of April be
yearly celebrated by thanksgivings for our deliverance from
the hands of the salvages."
Sir Thomas Lunsford married Kempe's widow.
Col. Scammel, the highest officer in rank killed during the
Yorktown siege, was wounded by two Hessian horsemen
after he had surrendered. He was brought to WilUamsburg,
where he died shortly after, and is buried in the churchyard.
His epitaph reads:
"What tho' no friend could ward thine early fall
Nor guardian angels tum the treacherous ball,
Bless'd shade besooth'd thy virtues all are known
Thy fame shall last beyond this mouldering stone
Which conquering armies from their toils retum'd.
Rear to thy glory, while thy fate they mourned."*
In a corner near the Confederate monument, side by side,
are the graves of Eev. Servant Jones and his first wife.
He was a noted character of his day and as his epitaph ex
plains, "Like the most of imperfect humanity, he was not ex
empt from some of its frailties, but a kinder soul seldom ex
isted. He possessed in his Nature a Bank of Benevolence,
which secretly dispensed its varied blessings to the needy,
and where the needy never faltered to repay in full confi
dence of affected relief. He was a zealous promoter of the
Baptist cause and many a personal sacrifice did he make to
advance its interests —
•Inscription now illegible.

62 (Unlntttal Olapttala nf Uft
If enemies he had they all will, now that
he is no longer in his place, do the
Justice to acknowledge — ^He was more
sinned against than sinning. —
Time waa when his cheek with life's crimson was flushed.
When cheerful his voice was, health sat on his brow —
That cheek is now palsied, that voice is now hushed :
He sleeps with the dust of his first partner now."
It is said that once when arriviag at the home of Mr.
Howl, a parishioner, after dinner had just been finished,
he originated the foUowiag grace:
"Good Lord of love look down from above.
And bless the 'owl who ate this fowl
And left these bones for Servant Jones."
It is told, that on the night of his death, when the light-
niag was flashing, and thunder broke the awful stUlness
with its crashes, one of the watchers, seized with a humor
ous impulse, lifted the body of Mr. Jones and danced
through the room with it, to the horror and dismay of the
others present.
He has left a touchiag tribute to his first wife in the
verses inscribed on her tombstone. It is said that he
brought the slab to Williamsburg on top of the coach in which
he and his second wife sat as they retumed from their bridal
trip. The verses inscribed read:
"If woman ever yet did well
If woman ever did exeell,
If woman husband ere adored,
If woman ever loved the Lord,
If ever faith and Hope and Love
In human flesh did live and move
If all the graces ere did meet
In her, in her, they were complete.

iSntntttum nf ^Btrgmia 63
My Ann, my all, my Angel wife,
My dearest one my love my life,
I cannot sigh or say farewell
But where thou dwellest I will dwell."
The long green at the rear of the church is another re
minder of the days of pomp and pageant of the royal gov
ernors. Where the old palace once stood we now find the
Matthew Whaley Model and Practice School of William and
Mary College. A stone monument presented by Mrs. Letitia
Semple, of Washington, also marks the spot.
Governor Nott, who is buried in Bruton churchyard, pro
cured through the Assembly an act for buUding the palace
and an appropriation of £3,000 for the same. The building
is described as haviag been "a magnificent structure built
at the public expense, finished and beautified with gates, fine
gardens, offices, walks, a fine canal, orchards, etc., with a
great number of the best arms, nicely posited by the inge
nious contrivance of the most accomplished Col. Spottswood.
This, likewise, has the omamental addition of a good cupola
or lantern, Uluminating most of the town upon birthnights,
and other nights of occasional rejoicing."
The grounds contained 370 acres bordered with lin
dens brought from Scotland. It was over this beautiful
green that the belles, gallants, and distinguished soldiers
and statesmen ia "His Majesty's Colony of Virginia" passed
to grace the balls and assemblies and to do honor to the
colonial govemors.

64 (SInlnmal OIa)tttala nf tl|r
The Virginia Gazette, of November 17th, 1752, contains
the following notice: "Friday last, being the Anniversary
of his Majesty's Birth Day, in the Evening the whole City
was illuminated. There was a BaU, and a very elegant En
tertainment, at the Palace, where were present the Emperor
and Empress of the Cherokees Nation, with their Son the
young Prince, and a briUiant appearance of Ladies and
Gentlemen; several beautiful Fireworks were exhibited in
Palace Street, by Mr. HaUam, manager of the Theatre in
this City, and the Evening concluded with every demonstra
tion of our Zeal and Loyalty."
Dunmore was the last loyal representative to live here, and
it is said that during the disturbing times preceding the
Eevolution, his palace was guarded by a company of ne
groes and later by a detachment of sailors and marines
from "his Majesty's ship Fowey."
The Palace was accidently burned by some French troops
after the surrender at Yorktown, eight years after Dun
more's flight.
iuntnor? B (EuMt
About 500 feet back of the Green is an enclosed mound of
earth, overgrown with gnarled trees. In the center of this
mound is a deep hole which leads to an underground pas
sage. "Dunmore's Cave," as this is called, extends under
ground to where the Palace stood. There are several theo
ries as to its original use, some thinking it was used as a

DUNMORE S CAVE.

V-*vyft>^*V,5^ .-. :j^ ..

WYTHE HOUSE.

CUSTIS HOUSE.

j9ntnttttntt nf ^trgtnta 65
wine cellar, others that perhaps the tricky governor kept
in it his arms and ammunition, or intended it as a means
of escape should he be sorely pressed in his palace.
On Palace street, near the church, and to one side of the
Green, is a very old colonial residence of brick overrun
with ivy and Virginia creeper. It was formerly the home
of Chancellor George Wythe, a student of WiUiam and Mary
College and professor of law at that iastitution. He was
one of the comjnissioners to revise the statutes of Virginia
ia 1776, and a member of the Virginia Convention wliich
ratified the Federal Constitution. He devised Virginia's
seal. "It represents virtue, the tutelary goddess of the Com
monwealth, draped as an Amazon, bearing in one hand a
spear and in the other a sword, trampUng rmder foot ty
ranny, symboUzed as a prostrate man, haviag near him a
broken chain and a scourage, wliile his crown has fallen from
his head. Above the figure of Virtue is the word 'Virginia,'
and underneath the Motto — 'Sic semper tyrannis.' "
This house was used as headquarters by Washington
previous to the Yorktown campaign.
Miss Ellen Glasgow in the "Voice of the People" made
the old residence the home of Judge Bassett, one of the
principal characters of her novel.
Judge Wythe's sleepiag room was the large chamber
over the dining room. It is said that on the eighth of every

66  Olnlnmal CHayttala nf tip?
June a cold white hand appears suddenly and presses the
brow of whoever occupies the room. On moonlight nights
George Washington's ghost appears in the haU, and the
beautiful formI of Mrs. Skipwith, formerly Elizabeth Byrd
of Westover, can be seen descending the broad stairs.

i^btor a Prison

What is commonly known as the old "Debtor's Prison"
is situated on the south side of Duke of Gloucester street,
and just back of the Dirickson Bank. It is a smaU quaint
brick building, a story and a half high. Though preserved
by the Association for the Preservation of Virginia Antiqui
ties, its prison association is discredited by some. In a
description of WUliamsburg duriag Spotswood's time*
(1710-23) it was said that near the Capitol "is a strong
sweet prison for criminals and on the other side of an open
court another for debtor's." This would place the "debtor's
prison" at the other end of the town.

ffinurt Ifoufi^

On the next open green stands the Courthouse. It is
distingmshed from the other buUdings by its long stone
columnless porch, and high belfry, from which rang out the
bell to call the patriots together in Eevolutionary
times. This Hall of Justice was built in 1769. It is
*Hugh Jones' "Present State of Virginia.''

COURT HOUSE BUILT IN 1769.

Sntntntntt nf HirsUtta 67
commonly supposed that Sir Christopher Wren was the archi
tect of this buUding as well as the coUege. As this famous
man died in February 1723, the writer prefers to give the
honor to a later day artist for fear that its past might appear
a trifle too shadowy. Eegardless of who its architect was,
we value it for its age and associations, and it is a fitting
monument to remind us of the famous jurists and states
men whose words and influence have been felt through more
than a century and a quarter.
Across the street from the Courthouse, there is a building
familiar to every antiquarian and student, as it is one of the
landmarks of colonial history.
This quaint and antique structure is known as the Pow
der Horn, from its use and octagonal shape.
It was buUt by act of the House of Burgesses in 1714,
in the reign of George I, and during the administration of
Governor Alexander Spotswood, who did so much for Vir
ginia. It is said he drew the plans for its construction with
the idea ia view of an armory and powder magazine. Its
massive walls have a thickness of 22 inches. Surrounding
it originally was a waU from 10 to 12 feet high, running par
allel to the sides at a distance of 21 feet.
The events foUowing the battle of Lexington, ia which the
Powder Hom figures very prominently, and which started
rolling in Virginia the ball of Independence, originated to

68 (Unlntttal Cdapttala nf tlj?
a great extent in the eloquence and acts of Patrick Henry,
Pendleton, Washington, and their contemporaries. Of
these guidiag spirits and members of the first American
Congress, Lord Chatham said, "It is doubtful if in the his
tory of mankiad any body of men equal to these has ever
existed." A few months prior to the begioning of hostUities in Vir
ginia, Lord Dunmore, then govemor, very slyly had re
moved from the magazine, in the middle of the night, about
twenty barrels of gunpowder belongiag to the colony. It
was carried to the schooner "Magdalen," anchored at Bur-
well's Ferry in James river, four miles from the capital.
When its removal was discovered the next day, the citizens
were exceedingly alarmed and indignant. A message from
the mayor, aldermen and councU was addressed to the
governor, telling him, in very strong language, their views
of the matter. The govemor's verbal answer was : "Hearing
of an insurrection in a neighboriag county, I have re
moved the powder from the magazine, where I do not think
it secure, to a place of perfect security, and upon my word and
honour, whenever it is wanted on an insurrection, it shaU
be delivered in half an hour; and I have removed it in the
night time to prevent any alarm."
However, the incident caused the greatest excite
ment and alarm throughout the colony. A company of
more than 60 minutemen in Fredericksburg prepared to
march to WUliamsburg, but were dissuaded by Washington
and Pendleton, who urged them to wait for Congress to

intnttttntt nf ^trgtnta 69
decide the matter. They nevertheless signed a paper,
pledging themselves to defend "Virginia or any sister Col
ony," and closed with the words, "God save the liberties of
America." In the meanwhUe, the patriotic and impetuous Patrick
Henry, with 150 men, was making rapid marches from
Hanover Courthouse to the capital and acquiring startling
additions to his small army on the way.
At the same time a detachment of saUors and maxines
from the British ship "Fowey" had arrived to guard the
Governor's person, and a letter from the commander of the
gun-boat to the president of the councU, threatening to fire
upon the town should the governor be molested or attacked.
Immediate bloodshed was prevented by the arbitration of
Colonel Carter Braxton. Dunmore paid to Henry 330 pounds
eterUng for the powder. The latter, giving a receipt bind
ing himself to tum it over to the Virgiaia delegates in Con
gress, went back to Hanover ia peace.
Very shortly after, some of the citizens of WilUamsburg
broke open the door of the magazine to examine its condition
and get any arms or powder that mjight remain. Several
barrels of powder buried under the floor seemed antagonistic
to the "word and honour" of the govemor, and the wounding
of a young fellow by a concealed spring gun caused such a
threatening demonstration that the wUy Dunmore made
hasty leave-taking and sought protection on board the man-
of-war "Fowey," anchored at Yorktown. He very thought
fully notified the Burgesses that he would discharge his

70 CUnlnntal Olajiitala nf tt|j
functions as govemor from his floatiag palace, but affairs
seemed to run just as peacefuUy with the famous Committee
of Safety at the hehn of the Ship of State.
He then tactfuUy turned his "oUve-branch" into a fire
arm and began his series of depredations along the coast.
Since those stirring events of the shadovry past, the old
Powder Horn has had a varied experience. For a number
of years it rang with the fire and eloquence of the good old
Baptist parson, Eev. Servant Jones. When the good peo
ple moved out, it was kept joyous with the laughter and
merriment of those who trod through the giddy maze of
the waltz during its two years' service as a danciag school.
It once more resumed its origiaal use in 1861 when under
the Confederates it was again an arsenal. After the war
it was sold by the town it had guarded so faithfiUly. Mor
tifying to relate, it became a stable. It was finaUy pur
chased by the Association for the Preservation of Virgiaia An
tiquities, and, as a museum, recalls to the considerate visitor
only those noble and inspiring memories of which it can
never again be robbed.

This old buUding, facing Duke of Gloucester street, was
used as the District Courthouse duriag the Civil War, and
in ante-bellum days its ground floor served as a prison.
In the space between it and the Powder Hom, there stood,
untu the last year or two, an old brick chimney, all that was

Sntntninn nf Hitrgtttta 71
left of the first Temple of Justice in WilUamsburg. In
1706, permission was given the people of "James Citty"
county by the General Assembly to build the county court
house from the remaining brick ruins of the State House
at Jamestown ; so when the old brick chimney was taken down,
the link connecting the State House to WilliamBburg was
broken, and only the vacant lot remains to show the spot
on which it stood. lapttst Olljurrli
The high wall which formerly guarded the powder maga
zine was used by the Eev. Servant Jones for the foundation
of the Baptist Church of Doric architecture, whieh is near.
It was buUt ia 1856 on this historic foundation.
(§ih ^nxxB^B
There are several quaint houses on both sides of Duke of
Gloucester street, which belong to the pre-Eevolutionary pe
riod. Among them is a little low white cottage with a
sloping roof and dormer windows. It is said that a little
woman well known for her piety lived here. Nevertheless,
when Colonel Tarleton and his raiders marched through the
town, she stood at her door and cursed them until they were
out of sight.

f araJJts? ^lXXXBt

Across the street, an old house of dark blue and red glazed
bricks brings to mind the celebrated Mrs. Paradise, who

72 (Unlntttal CHapttala nf tljF
in London entertained the Literary Club of Johnson, Gold
smith, and Sir Joshua Eeynolds. She is mentioned several
times in BosweU's "Life of Johnson." 'Tis said that at an
assembly in WiUiamsburg she met General Washington for the
first time. She was so much im|pressed by his distinguished
appearance and physique, that on retumiag hoye she beat
her own husband because he was smaU and ugly. Her
grandson, an ItaUan prince, was extremely impressed with
the beauty of the women in the colonial capital, and ex
claimed to his interpreter, "How can such angels live in such
hovels?"

At the east end of the street is a large gray brick resi
dence known as the "Vest House." Here Lafayette's officers
were quartered as they halted on their way to Yorktown.

Across from this, a small stuccoed yeUow house with slant
ing roof and dormer wiadows is noticed. It was the old
Chancery, or Clerk's Office, and is the only one of the govem
ment buUdtags remaiaiag.

lasH^tt l|aU

This colonial mansion is distinguished from the other old
homes by the beautiful old-fashioned gardens surrounding
it. The first alanthus trees in America were planted ia these
gardens. It was formerly the home of Judge Bassett, celebrated for
his hospitality. Washington was a frequent guest at his

BASSETT HAT.T,.

intttminn nf ITtrgtttta 73

home. It is said that while Thomas Moore, the Irish poet,
was sitting on the piazza at dusk, he saw the flittering light
of the fireflies for the first time, and penned the lines:
TO TBDE FIREPLY.
At moming when the earth and sky
Are glowing with the light of spring.
We see thee not, thou humble fly!
Nor think upon thy gleaming wing.
But when the skies have lost their hue,
And sunny lights no langer play.
Oh then we see and bless thee too
For sparkling o'er the dreary way.
Thus let me hope, when lost to me
The lights that now my life illume.
Some milder joys may come, like thee.
To cheer, if not to warm, the gloom!
This place was once the home of John Tyler, president
of the United States ia 1841.

The frame house on the northeast comer of Nicholson and
England streets has the distinction of beiag the dwelling
in which Lafayette was entertained during his visit to
America after the Eevolution. His host was Dr. Peachey,
some of whose descendants are still liviag in WiUiamsburg.
A very elegant dinner and ball were given at the Ealeigh
Tavem by the citizens of Williamsburg in honor of their
distinguished guest.
The site* of the old Ealeigh Tavem brings back many
memories "that haunt Thoughts' wilderness." This famous
*Where Lane's store stands.

74 Olnlnmal (Eapttala nf tljf
inn was a large frame buUding of two stories with dormer
windows, according to the prevaUiag style of architecture.
A metal bust of Sir Walter Ealeigh stood on a little portico
over the door. The pedestal on which it rested is one of the
curios in the museum of the Powder Hom.
This old hostelry has witnessed many scenes of brUUant
festivity and gayety. The Virginia Gazette contains
numerous notices of entertaiaments and dinners. An
'October paper of 1768 gives a lengthy description of the
arrival of the Eoyal Governor Botetourt, and his supping
at the Tavern with his CouncU. Another paper, dated
October 5th, 1768, gives the following quaint notice of a
dianer: — "Yesterday, Peyton Eandolph Esq., our worthy
representative, gave a genteel dinner at the Ealeigh Tavern,
to the electors of this city, after which many loyal and
patriotic toasts were drank, and the afternoon spent with
cheerfulness and decorum." It was during a baU at the
Tavern that the future author of the Declaration of Inde
pendence was rejected by the lovely Eebecca Burwell.
The famous Apollo Eoom was not only the scene of
revelry and mirth, but measures which have gone far towards
protecting the liberties of America had their origia in the
braios of the greatest men of the Eevolutionary epoch,
assembled in that historic room.
It was here in 1769, after the dissolviag of the General
Assembly by Lord Botetourt, that the members assembled
and the famous Virginia "Non-Importation Agreement"
was presented to the Burgesses by George Washington and

EUINS OF THE HOUSE OF BURGESSES.

intnttttntt nf Iftrginia 75
drawn up by George Mason. Mounted men rode north,
south, east, and west with copies of the Eesolves, and
everywhere the people endorsed and signed them.
It was in this Tavern that they met after being dissolved
in 1774 by Dunmore. The first of June had been appointed
as a day of fasting and prayer by the Burgesses. The Gov
ernor disapproved and promptly dissolved the House, where
upon they met ia the Ealeigh Tavem and took steps to
wards a general Congress. This celebrated house was
burned ia 1859.
©ll? Olapttfll or ^nviBt at MwcQtMti&
The devastating touch of time has left only the f oundar
tions to mark the site of the first colonial capitol which took
the place of the State House at Jamestown. A stone monu
ment erected by the Washington Branch of the Association
for the Preservation of Virginia Antiquities, on May 26,
1904, bears the names of prominent men in its history. To
the people of the grand old Commonwealth no memorial is
necessary to perpetuate the deeds and splendid courage of
their forefathers, for they shaU endure throughout the
ages in the minds and hearts of all loyal Americans.
The site of this old House of Burgesses is directly oppo
site the College at the other end of the town.
It was 'iDuilt at the cost of the late queen (Anne) by the
direction of the Governor," says an early writer, and he
adds, "It is a noble, beautiful and commodious pile; in fact

76 (Enlntttal Olapitala nf ttj^
it is the best and most commodious pUe of its kind that I
have ever seen or heard of."
For a number of years the use of fires, candles and tobacco
was prohibited, probably on account of the frequent burn
ings of the State House and the College. Notwithstanding
these precautions it was burned in 1746, rebuUt, and bumed
again ia 1833, but as the seat of government had been moved
to Eichmond in 1780 the old Capitol's days of glory and
usefulness had passed away and it never agaia rose from
its ashes.
The old Speaker's chair and stove are stiU preserved in
the State Capitol at Eichmond. Both are of very quaint
design and carviag.
It was ia this old House of Burgesses that George Wash
ington made his debut. After his heroic passage across the
Delaware and through the wUdemess, prior to the beginning
of hostilities in the French and Indian War, he gave the
message from St. Pierre to the Speaker of the House who
expressed his admiration for his young countryman of
twenty-one. Washington, blushing Uke a school girl, arose
to make his maiden attempt, but had only stammered out a
few sentences when he was interrupted by the Speaker, who
cried out, "Sit down! Sit down, sir! Your modesty is
equal to your valor, and that surpasses the power of any
language that I possess." Only four years after the Brad
dock War Washington married the beautiful and wealthy
young widow Martha Custis, whom he had met in the
colonial capital. It was later, when honor and fame had

intnttttntt nf Utrgntta 77
crowned his brow, marching through the town at the head
of his army on the way from Yorktown, that he caught a
glimpse of the sweet face of Mrs. Edward Ambler, formerly
Mary Cary, his youthful sweetheart. She was looking at
the great general from a window in the capitol building
and as he waved his handkerchief in greeting she fell back
in a faint. She was said to have been very much like Mrs.
Custis. Mrs. Ambler was a sister to Mrs. George Fairfax,
and it was at the latter's beautiful country home "Belvoir"
on the Potomac that the young surveyor became conscious
for the first time in his stripliag years of the charm and
loveliness of this young girl. A letter written by him at the
age of sixteen tells what an impression was made on his
heart from the outset of their acquaintance. It was written
from "Belvoir" to another sweetheart, and reads : —
"Dear Sally: — This comes to Fredericksburg fair in
hopes of meeting with a speedy passage to you if you're not
there, which I hope you'l get shortly, altho I am almost
discouraged from writiag to you, as this is my fourth to
you since I received any from yourself. I hope you'll not
make the old proverb good, out of sight out of mind, as it
is one of the greatest pleasures I can yet forsee of having
in Fairfax, in often heariag from you, hope you'l not deny
me. I pass the tim|e much more agreeably than I imagiaed
I should, as there's a very agreeable young lady lives in the
same house where I reside (Colonel George Fairfax's wife's
sister), that in a great measure cheats my sorrow and de-
jectedness, tho not so as to draw my thoughts altogether

78 Olnlntttal QIajittala nf tiff
from your parts. I could wish to be with you down there
with all my heart but as a thing most impracticable shaU
rest myself where I am with hopes of shortly having some
minutes of your transactions in your parts which will be
very welcomely received by your Geo. W."
An old letter describiag Washington's mother, "the rose
of Epping Forest" ia her lovely girlhood, and dated "W'ms-
burg, ye 7th of Oct., 1722," reads, "Dear Sukey: — Madame
Ball of Lancaster, and her Sweet Molly have gone Hom.
Mamma thinks Molly the Comliest Maiden She know. She
is about 16 yrs. old, is taller than Me, is very sensible. Modest
and Loving. Her Hair is like unto flax. Her eyes are
the color of yours and her Cheeks are Uke May blossoms.
I wish you could See Her."
It was whUe George Fairfax was a member of the Assem
bly in 1748 that he wooed and won Mss Sarah Cary. A
letter addressed to his cousin Lord Thomas Fairfax, an
nounces the event very briefiy: — "Dear Cousin Tom, WhUe
attending at the General Assembly I have had several oppor
tunities of visiting Miss Carey, and finding her an amiable
person, and to represent all the favorable reports, m'ade of
her, I addressed myself and having obtained the young lady's
and the parents' consent we are to be married on the 17th
iast." It was with George Fairfax that George Washington
surveyed. Here ia the old House of Burgesses the Committee of
Correspondence origiaated imder the leadership of the
illustrious patriot Dabney Carr; here the famous Committee

^ii:._<_

HOME OF SAEAH AND MAEY CAET.

intnittintt nf Btrstnta 79
of Safety was organized about which Eichard Lee, in a
letter to Washington, humorously writes, "I am sorry to
grate your ears with the truth, but must at all events
assure you that the Provincial Congrefs of New York are
angels of decifion when compared with your country-men,
the Committee of Safety, afsembled at W'msburg. Page,
Lee, Mercer, and Payne, are indeed exceptions, but from
Pendleton, Bland, the Treasurer & Company, libera nos
Domline." The first formal opposition to the Stamp Act came from
Patrick Henry. The room was crowded with the Burgesses
dressed in their bright-colored silks and satins, dainty
ruffled shirts, knee-breeches with silver buckles, and hair
nicely powdered and tied with ribbon. What a contrast to
"that lazy young rascal Patrick Henry" as he stood up in
his coarse clothes, yarn stockings and unpowdered hair. The
members began to laugh. Then that slouching figure
straightened, his eyes grew bright, and with a voice as sweet
as music, he made his famous speech agaiast tyranny. The
old room rang with the bumiag words, "Csesar had his
Brutus, Charles the First his Cromwell, and George the
Third  " Cries of "Treason 1 Treason !" iatermpted him,
but fixing his eyes upon the Speaker of the House he con
tinued, "and George the Third may profit by their example.
If this be treason, make the most of it."
The members adjourned in great excitemlent. A man ia
the crowd clapped Henry on the shoulder as they pushed
out and said "Stick to it, old feUow, or we are lost." The

80 Olnlntttal Olapttala nf tljr
advice was heeded, and the future governor of Virgiaia lived
to thrUl many an audience with the sway of his voice and
the logic of his thought. So highly esteemed and loved did
he become, that twenty-four years later, an old and feeble
man, as he fell exhausted into the arms of his friends at
the conclusion of his celebrated speech against formiag the
Union, one of the audience exclaimed, "The sun has set in
all his glory." Another, writing of his last days, has weU
said, "The power of the noon-day sun was gone; but its
setting splendors were not less beautiful and touching."
As "young Jonny Eandolph" stepped up on the platform
to take the place of one recognized as America's greatest
orator, an old man exclaimed, "Tut I Tut ! it won't do ! It's
Uke the beating of an old tin pan after a fine church organ."
Perhaps if the old man lived long enough, he found out
that the "old tia pan" became celebrated too.
In this old Capitol on May the 15th, 1776, just one hundred
years after that first strike for freedom by Bacon at James
town, resolutions were presented, prepared by Edmjund
Pendleton, declaring the colony free and independent, and
instructing the delegates ia Congress to propose the same
thiag in that body. The resolutions were parsed and read to
the troops assembled at WiUiamsburg.
It was here that the famous Virginia Eesolves, embody
ing the principle, "No taxation without representation,"
paved the way for the BUl of Eights, drawn up by George
Mason on June 15, 1776, the Constitution of Virginia, and
eventually the Declaration of Independence, embodying the

innttntntt nf Hirgntia 81
same thought in the step toward freedom, that step which
has been so far reaching upon the destiay of America.
Of the Declaration of Independence it has been said,
"Prom beginning to end it was the work of Virginia — A
Virginia planter (Mason) conceived it; a Virginia lawyer
(Jefferson) drafted it; and a Virgiaia soldier (George
Washington) defended it and made it a living reality." It
might be added that the courageous and noble patriot sol
diers who maiatained it by their life's blood and the
strength of American arms, gave to the whole world the
principles of self-government; "All men are created equal.
Life, Uberty, and the pursuit of happiness are inalienable
rights. Government derives its just power from the con
sent of the govemed. The right of the people it is to abolish
or alter any form of govemment destructive of their rights,
safety, and happiness."

#tt? of ©Ij^ato

On the southeast comer of Blair Avenue, to one side of
the Capitol ruins, is the site of the first theatre in America,
buUt in 1716. The eaxly numbers of the Virginia Gazette
contain numerous notices of plays to be rendered. The
Gazette of August 31, 1753, bears the notice, "We are
desired to inform the Public, That as the Company of
Comedians, lately from London, have obtain'd his Honour
the Governor's Permission, and have with great Expense,
entirely altered the Play House at Williamsburg to a regular
Theatre, fit for the reception of Ladies and Gentlemen, and
2

82 ©nlnnial Olapttala nf tljf
the Execution of their own Performances, they iatend to
open on the first Friday in September next, with a Play
called The Merchant of Venice (written by Shakespeare)
and a Farce, call'd The Anatomist, or Sham Doctor. The
Ladies are desired to give timely Notice to Mr. Hallami, at
Mr. Fisher's for their Places in the Boxes, and on the Day
of Performance to send the Servants early to keep them, in
order to prevent Trouble and Dissappointment."
Another time appeared, "The Emperor of the Cherokee
Nation with his Empress and their Son, the young Prince,
attended by several of his Warriors and great Men and their
Ladies, were received at the Palace by his Honour the Gov
ernor, attended by such of the Council as were in Town and
several other Gentlemen, on Thursday, the 9th Instant, with
the Marks of CivUity and Friendship, and were that even
ing entertaiaed at the Theatre, with the Play (The Tragedy
of Othello) and a Pantomime Performance, which gave them
great Surprise as did the fightiag with naked Swords on the
Stage, which occasioned the Empress to order some about
her to go and prevent their kUliag one another."
This London Company of Comedians which appeared in
Williamsburg in 1752 was the first regular company of
players to come to America. Lewis HaUam, Sr., was the
manager. His small son of twelve made here his debut,
which amounted to a burst of tears as he rushed off the
stage, so frightened that he could not say his few lines.
In 1771 they reappeared under a new name. The youthful
actor was at his best. His beautiful cousin Sarah Hallam

intttttttntt nf Utrgtnta 83
took the leading parts. With a face "like unto Cytherea's,"
and the "form of Diana," she charmed her distinguished
audiences night after night. The diary of Washington
proves that he was a very frequent attendant, and an old
letter of anpther admirer of the drama states that after
going to the play for eleven consecutive nights, Miss HaUam
was "superfine."
Mr. Peter Pelham, "Organist of the Church in the City
of WUUamsburg," rendered the musical accompaniments.
This lovely actress Uved in WiUiamsburg for many years
and had a fashionable dancing and boarding school for young
ladies. Her advertisement in the Gazette of August 18,
1775, reads, "The Subscriber begs leave to acquaint the ladies
and gentlemen that on Friday next, at Kr. Blovet Pasteur's,
in this city, she iatends to open a Dancing School, and hopes
to be favored with the instruction of their daughters in that
genteel accomplishment. As she is resolved to spare no
pains with her scholars, she does not doubt of being able
to give entire satisfaction. The days for teaching are friday's
and Saturday's, every week; and her price is 20 s. at en
trance, and 4 £ a year. Sarah HaUam."
^amt of P^gtott lattJioljtij
Peyton Eandolph, the fitrst president of the Contiaental
Congress, spent most of his life in Williamsburg, and, as
previously stated is buried under the coUege chapel. A long

84 Olnlntttal QTapttala nf tip?
white house on Francis street stUl bears the plate — "Home
of Peyton Eandolph Attorney-General of Virgiaia, Speaker
of the House of Burgesses, First President of the Continen
tal Congress, Born 1733, Died 1775."
This old colonial residence at the south end of England
street was formerly the home of Sir John Eandolph and hia
nephew, Edmund Eandolph. The house is colonial in de
sign. The interior is beautifully finished with hand-carved
wainscoting of mahogany, and the spacious halls and rooms
are deUghtfully inviting. Edmund Eandolph was educated
at WUliam and Mary College. This distiaguished states
man was Virginia's first attorney-general after the Eevolu
tion, and later her govemor, and secretary of state. He
was married in 1776, and the Virginia Gazette of that date
gives the quaint announcement — "Edmund Eandolph Esq.
Attorney-General of Virgiaia, to Miss Betsey Nicholas, a
young lady whose amiable sweetness of disposition, joined
with the finest intellectual accomplishments, cannot faU of
rendering the worthy man of her choice completely happy.
Fain would the aspiring miise attempt to sing,
The virtues of this amiable pair.
But how shall I attune the trembling string,
Or sound a note which can such worUi decl're.
Exalted theme! too high for common lays!
Could my weak verse with beauty be inspired
In numbers smooth I'd chant my Betsy's pra'se
And tell her how much her Eandolph is admired.
To light the hymeniai torch since they've resolved
Kind Heaven I trust will make them truly blest.
And when the Gordian shall be dissolVd,
Translate them to eternal peace and rest."

^r /'

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II ' P^T^
L'! ¦ Ban s ¦ Sn
El ¦>¦¦£ 9 mi

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PEYTON eandolph's HOME.

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TAZEWELL HALL.
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intttttttntt nf Httrgtnia 85

This was the first newspaper in Virginia and among the
earliest in the colonies. It was estabUshed at WiUiamsburg
August 6th, 1736. The first copies were one sheet, 12 by
6, and sold for 15 s. ($3.75) per year. According to the cus
tom of that early day, the announcemjents of a weddiag were
nearly always accompanied by a verse. One reads — "On
Sunday last, Mr. Beverly Dixon to Miss PoUy Saunders, a
very agreeable young lady, —
Hymen, thy brightest torch prepare
Gild with light the nuptial bower.
With garlands crown this lovely pair.
On them thy choicest blessing shower.
Here no sordid interest binds,
But truest innocence and love
Combined unite their spotless minds
And seal their vows above."
Another is written —
Her's the mixed lustre of the bloomin mom.
And his the radiance of the rising day:
Iiong may they live, and mutually possess,
A steady love and genuine happiness.
The Gazette of AprU 13th, 1768, states, "A hog was brought
to town this week from Sussex as a show, raised by Mr.
Henry Tyler there, who, though only four years old, is near
3% ft. Uigh, about 9% ft. long, & it is supposed weighs
near 1200 lbs. He much exceeds any animal of the kind
ever raised on this contiaent, and indeed, we do not remem*-
ber to have heard of any so large in England."

86 Qlnlnnial Olajiitala nf tlp>
Duruig 1862, when the town was in possession of the
Federals, the Gazette was pubUshed under the new name,
"Cavalier" with the motto "The Union forever and freedom
for all." A poem published at that time, and from which
we quote two verses, reads : —
"The shades of night were falling fast
As through a Southem village passed,
A youth who bore not over nice
A banner with the gay device 'Skedaddle'
His hair was red, his toes beneath
Peeped like an acorn from its sheath.
While with a frightened voice he sung
A burden strange to Yankee tongue
'Skedaddle,' "
This laet line sounds contradictory to the story told on
Gen. Pope, who always bragged that he should never see any
thing but the backs of his enemies. It seemed that the Con
federates gave him a surprise one night and he decided to
leave his papers and coat behind. The latter was seized by
Gen. J. E. B. Staurt and sent to Eichmond with the label
attached, "Taken from the man who never expected to see
anything but the backs of his enemies."

MuBanxt ®^mpb

On Francis street there is a very dUapidated two-story
frame house with a tiay cupola. It has the distiaction of
being an ancient Masonic temple. The first grand lodge of
Virginia was organized within its walls.

OLD MASONIC TEMPLE.

UBSF^^ 'i%rt^

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Jyg^^.:^:^l'n:i.i
^^E^^j^^^_^^^M|
BBSmHE^^^^_ '^^^^^jjjgl^^l^gjgli^j
EASTERN STATE HOSPITAL 1768
intttttttntt nf TItrgtttta 87
In the Masonic rooms used at the present day there is an
antique and richly carved mahogany chair presented to tha
lodge by the colonial govemor. Lord Botetourt. It was
used by Washington for his first inauguration, and by Presi
dent Arthur at the presentation of the monument at York-
town.
lEaat^rtt BUU l|oapttal
This Institution is situated on Francis street and sur
rounded by a beautifiU park of sixteen acres.
An act passed by the House of Burgesses in November
1769, ia the tenth year of the reign of George III, "To make
provision for the support and maintenance of idiots, lunar-
tics, and other persons of unsound minds," inaugurated one
of the pioneer charities of America, and the oldest institu
tion for the insane on the westem continent.
Prom a twonstory building of twenty-eight rooms, com
pleted in 1773, it has been so changed and enlarged that to-day
nine comniiodious buildings, with every modern improvement
and equipment, have been substituted. The original struc
ture was burned in June 1885.
A m^p of WUliamsburg in the College library, dated 1780,
designates the hospital as the "Mad House" or "Bedlam,"
showing the popular theory concerning diseased minds at
that early date. A letter in the library of WUliam and Mary
CoUege written in 1801 gives an idea of the treatment of
the insane at that time. It reads in part —
"Winchester, July 31, 1801.

88 Olnlntttal Olapttala nf tlfp
My Good Friend: —
For the first time I take up my pen with reluctance — as
I have nothing to communicate that wiU afford pleasure —
weU knowing the anxiety of your good heart — I wUl attempt
to give you an account of my poor Brother's situate. Alas
Madam — ^when I last wrote my beloved friend — little did I
expect to find him perfectly Insane — On my arrival ia
Charlestown, I found him. Oh heavens — ^in chains — and I
am sorry to add his situation demanded the inhumane alter
native — when I rode up to the House — I heard thc clanking
of chains — ^knowipg it to be my Brother — you my Dr.
Madam — can better delineate my feelings than I can describe
them — He appears pleased and exults in his chains — calls
himself French — and says he is one of the happiest men on
earth — which I believe not knowing his situation —
He is in one of Uncle H  ^'s houses, in Charlestown
very private — with a good attendant — ^his Physicians admit
no one to see him but his particular friends — ^which I also
think highly improper — even his nearest connections ought
not to seen him untU the disease takes a change — ^he has lost
one hundred and forty ozs. of blood within this ten days —
and with pleasure I can inform you, it has had som© happy
effects — ^he is much more calm than usual —
The Physicians agree that Love is the sole cause of his
situation — his whole conversation is on the Ladies — smd he
would dwell forever on the name of Mrs.  and wishes
me to purchase her from To'm — He has been ia Baltimore
in this situation — and I am told nearly killed two men —
run his horse thro the streets under the whip — and God only

MARTHA WASHINGTON S KITCHEN,

inmttttntt nf Btrginta 89
knows what he has been guUty off — My good Sister P —
never leaves him — ^my Dr. Parents — ^know nothing of his con
finement — ^nor my sister McG — He wUl be better, his disease
is Uke all others within the power of the Physicians — ^I
have wrote to Dr. Eush and stated his disease — ^the cause
&c — I visit him again accompanied by Dr. Conrad — Th
(letter is torn here) vnll be as short as the Physicians think
their presence rather injure than aleviate — ^I have not been
from his side for eight days — and I cannot help indulging
him — ^iho know it to be improper — "

^tx fflljtmtt^^ Slot

This lot is included in the eastem portion of the Hospital
park. On it there stood formerly a stately mansion occu
pied by Washington and his wife for a short while during
their early married life. Mrs. Washington was distinguished
among the beUes, who graced the vice-regal courts of the
colonial govemors Gooch and Dinwiddie, for her beauty
and iateUect. Her marriage to Washington was celebrated
in her home in New Kent on the Pamunkey river, in the
adjoining county to James City.
The brick kitchen, also the ehn tree said to be planted by
Mrs. Washington's own hands, are all that the lovers of
romance have to remiad them of the honeymoon spent in
WiUiamsburg.

It is with wonder and admiration that we recall the wis
dom and foresight of the Ulustrious men of the Old Domin
ion. Perhaps no other town of its size so vividly recaUs the

90 Olnlntttal Olapttala nf ttf?
splendid courage and attaiaments of our forefathers as this
old colonial capital of WUliamsburg.
On the banks of the James river about six mUra from
WUliamsburg, there is a large plantation known as Carter's
Grove. This estate was originaUy owned by Eobert Carter,
famUiarly known as "King Carter," and was a part of the
parish of Martin's Hundred established in 1618. The
beautiful and commodious colonial mansion on the place was
buUt in 1722-30 by Carter BurweU, "King Carter's" grand
son. A more beautiful location for the dwelUng could nor
be found. It is on the brow of a hiU overlooking James
river. The view extends into the counties of Surry and Isle
of Wight on the opposite side of the James river, whUe
Hog Island, sometimes caUed "Homewood," and a point of
the historic Jamestown island are easUy distinguishable by
the naked eye. The latter island is only six mUes off and
is readily reached by saU boat. It was only a short distance
from Carter's Grove, that Lord Delaware, ascending the river
to Jamestown on May the 10th, 1610, met the starving
settlers as they were embarking for England with Sir Thomas
Gates and Admiral Somers. Delaware persuaded them to
return to Jamestown with him, thus preventing the extinc
tion of English civilization in America.
The mansion is of old blue and red glazed brick, and
presents a noble appearance. It is approached by a pic
turesque lane bordered with ancient cedars and locust trees.

intttttttntt nf litrgtttta 91
The lawn in the back is well terraced and shaded with old
trees. The interior of the house is distinguished by the spacious
ness of the hall and rooms, and the quaint paneling of beau
tiful wood, extendiag up to the ceUing. On the banisters
of the broad staircase several sabre cuts are noticeable. They
were made by Colonel Tarleton's troopers duriag the Eevo
lution, and it is said that his raiders actually rode their
horses up the steps. They were so impatient for a taste of the
pies for which the housewife was famous, that one of the
officers ripped open the large mahogany sideboard with his
sabre. This beautiful old mansion was formierly the home
of the lovely and fascinatiag Eebecca Burwell. While
Thomas Jefferson and Jacqueline Ambler were students at
WUUam and Mary College, they both became very much en
amored over this charming young girl. The red-headed, sandy-
haired, young Thomas Jefferson was celebrated for his "fid
dling," and perhaps the sentimental thoughts of this lovelorn
youth were often sung to the lovely BeUnda. Once ia planning
a trip to Europe he decided to buUd his own boat, naming it
"Eebecca," and on his voyage to saU to Italy to procure a
new fiddle. It is said that almost the only verse that he ever
penned was addressed to this young girl, and in a lettei' to
his bosom friend, John Page, he wrote, "If Belinda will not
accept my services they shall never be offered to another."
It was during a ball at the Ealeigh Tavem in WUUams
burg that Jefferson offered his love to Eebecca BurweU for
the last time. In another letter to John Page he says, "In

92 Olnlntttal OTaftitala nf tl|^
the most melancholy fit that ever any poor soul was, I sit
down to write to you. Last night, as merry as agreeable
company and dancing with BeUnda in the ApoUo could make
me, I never could have thought the succeeding sun would
have seen me so wretched as I now am! I was prepared to
eay a great deal. I had dressed up in my own mind, such
thoughts as occurred to me in as moving language as I knew
how, and expected to have performed in a tolerably creditable
manner. But, good God! When I had an opportunity of
venting them, a few broken sentences, uttered in great dis
order, and interrupted with pauses of uncommon length,
were the two visible marks of my strange confusion 1"
Nevertheless the "pen of Virginia," and the future author
of the Declaration of Independence, was rejected for his
more fortunate rival, Jacqueline Ambler, the "Aristotle of
Virginia." This historic house and estate is now the home of Dr. E.
G. Booth, who is celebrated for his Virginia hospitaUty, and
when the old sideboard is subjected to a modem raid, pies
as delicious as those of old are brought to view.
On the historic road to Yorktown there can be noticed a
line of entrenchments through which the road cuts about a
mUe and a half from Williamsburg. The locality is known
as Fort Magruder, in honor of the gallant general who com
manded the confederates ia the battle of WiUiamsburg
fought along this road on May the 5th, 1863. The Union

inmttttntt nf Utrgntia 93
forces were commanded by General McCleUan. The battle
though short, was exceediagly bloody and was one of the most
important fought duriag the Civil War, as the fate of Eich
mond, the Confederate capital, depended on the result.
A marble tablet on the walls of Bruton Church in WU
Uamsburg bears the sunple inscription: —
"In memory of
the
Confederate Soldiers
who fell in the
Battle of Williamsburg
May the Sth, 1862
and of those who died of
the wounds received in
the same.
They died for us."
A granite monument, and a number of small stone slabs
in the graveyard surrounding the church, mark the graves
of those who wore the gray.

About half way between WilUamsburg and Yorktown a
little stream known as Black Swamp has to be crossed.
Tradition says that in colonial days a bridal party in a
coach of four were crossing the stream when the horses got
caught in the qmcksand. None of the party was seen
again, and it is claimed the place has been haunted ever
since.

i  1
l^orktown

"3t is 0u>»t ta linger iittt. attumg
ti(e flittering birda
Anb ImpHnQ aqninrria, tuanbrrtng
brooka. anb htinba
Eifat aifuki 11^ lewatB. anb atatter.
aa tt|«g tiaaa.
A firasranr? from tiff rebara. ttjiirhlg
aet
Hitljf traU blue berriea. 3n tl;eae
peatrfnl aljabea —
3^eareful. nn)imneb. immeaanrablg
nib—
jKg t^angl^B so utt tt;e long bim
patif at geara,
lark tn tlje earlieat baga nf Itbertg"

^ off f nrktohm ^ ^

'*' t!b tl?

1634 the colony of Virginia was divided
»d into eight counties, and Charles Eiver county
^1 was created. This county iucluded a num-
^-^ ber of plantations on York river, among
them Ultimaria and Bellfield. The name of
this county was afterwards changed to York.
Court was first held at the different large
plantations; later at a place called York,
established by the colonial govemor, Sir John
Harvey. About 1676 it convened at the
"Half-way House," on the road between
Williamsburg and Yorktown.
In 1619, fifty acres of an estate on York river were
bought from Benjamia Eeade, and "Yorke Towne" was laid
out. Here court sat ia 1698, though the town was not es
tablished by law untu 1705. The original seal is stiU
preserved. The situation of the vUlage is on the brow of a hill over
looking a fine harbor. The view extends iato Chesapeake
bay, and for a number of mUes across the neighboriag county
of Gloucester. This dUapidated vUlage of scarcely more than
one hundred and fifty inhabitants, includiag about twelve
white families, formerly enjoyed an extensive trade with the
West Indies, and other islands and countries.

98 Olnlntttal Olapttala nf tip?
ffiustom ^axxBt
A very old Custom House buUt ia 1715, the first and
oldest ia the United States, is still pointed out to visitors
to the historic town.
On the high bank of the river is a tiny stone-marle Epis
copal church. The first church was built in 1697. Governor
Francis Nicholson, who laid out the town of Williamsburg,
gave 20 £ towards its construction. This church was de
stroyed by fire ia 1814, but has since been rebuilt. Its old
bell, bearing the inscription, "County of York, Virginia,
1725," stUl calls the worshipers together, as of old.
To one side of this sacred edifice is the burial ground of
the Nelsons, a family very intimately associated vrith the
history of the town.
One of the first buUdings to greet the eye, as the visitor
passes down Main street, is the celebrated old Swan
Tavern. The original inn was built in 1723 and burned
during the Civil War. It was said to be the oldest tavem
in Virginia at that time. Only the name and foundation
remuia to liak it to the present building. An origiaal paper
of mles and regulations is ia the possession of the present
proprietor. After a careful notice of the rates, it ends with
the foUowing request: — "As the house is not intended to

inmtttinn nf Utrginta 99
be a place of lazy, unprofitable resort, mere loungers are
requested to keep away; and all who come only to idle their
time at the fire in the winter, or to gulp dovra ice water in
the summer, will be charged daily twenty-five cents each.
Eude, noisy or intoxicated persons wUl not be tolerated on
any terms. 1752 Eobert Anderson."
2tl|? Nielson l|o«fi^
The old Nelson House, the most prepossessing in the
village, brings to mind one of the most courteous, high-
minded, and patriotic men of the Eevolutionary period.
The house was built ia 1740-41 by President William Nel
son, son of the founder of the Nelson family in Virginia,
Thomas Nelson I, often known as "Scotch Tom, the emi
grant." It is said that the comer stone was laid by General
Thomas Nelson of Eevolutionary fame. He was a toddling
baby at that time, but the brick was passed through his tiny
hand. The house is a large two-story brick buUding with stone
trimmings, fronting the river. Surrounded with an old-
fashioned garden, bordered with boxwood, it presents a very
picturesque effect. The halls and rooms are very spacious and
beautiful. When General Lafayette visited Yorktovra. the house
was turned over to the committee for his entertainment.
During the Civil War when Yorktown was occupied by the
Confederates under General Magruder, the house was used

100 Olnlntttal Olapttala nf tip*
by them for a hospital and, for sanitary reasons, the beauti
ful wainscoting of the interior was whitewashed. Inserted
in the waiascotiag of the dining room is a secret panel, and
two secret rooms are connected with the garret.
It was directly ia line with the range of the American
guns duriag the siege, and was used as headquarters by Com
wallis. Three cannon balls have left impressions on the east
gable. One is embedded ia the brick. Another left a large
open hole where it went crashing through the southeast
comer, entered the diaing room, tore off two panels of wain
scoting, and shattered the marble mantel.
General Nelsoji owned another mansion on the outskirts
of the town, in the direction of Temple Farm. When hostilities
began, it was soon discovered that the house contained a nest
of British soldiers. The General coramanded the Virginia
Militia of 3,300, and they naturally evinced a great reluct
ance to fije into the home of their comm a.n der, whereupon
with great disiaterestedness he offered a reward of five
guineas to the man who should fire the first shot. A baU
went crashing through the roof and very shortly the house
was ia ruins. Hardly a trace of it remains.
This most patriotic of Virginia's sons gave liberaUy to
the cause of freedom. His own army was fed entirely dur
ing the siege at Yorktown by the use of his own credit.
When two Virginia regiments were ordered to the Carolinas,
before the soldiers started, he gave them all of their back pay
due, out of his own private fortune; and agaia, when the
security of the old Commonwealth was not sufficient to bor
row two mUUon doUars with which to carry on the war.

inmttttntt nf Utrsmta 101
Nelson added his personal security to that of the State, and
in this way a large proportion of the sum was raised. He
was one of the signers of the Declaration of Independence,
a member of the House of Burgesses, and Governor of Vir
ginia, succeeding Jefferson.
A few remaining houses, beariag a Uberal allowance of
bullet holes, help us to realize that this dUapidated vUlage
witnessed the breaking of the last link in the chain that
bound America to the mother country England, and the
events which were here enacted hastened the day when a
chord of love was substituted, for the betterment of both
eountries. The entrenchments made by the British are stUl compara
tively perfect, and judging from their height and solidity
they bid fair to remaia for many m'ore generations. These
redoubts in some places are very thickly overgrown with
broom straw. The seed to this plant was said to be brought
over from England in the hay, and the fields around York-
town are very thick with its graceful stalks.
Notwithstanding Earl Comwallis' strategy and boast that
the foolish boy, Lafayette, could not escape him, the young
Frenchman had succeeded in gettiag the English general
well hemmed up in the little town by the 27th of September,
1781. A heavy cannonade from the British ushered ia the
siege. The American army was encamped only a mile from
Comwallis' lines. The French were about the same distance
and to the left of the Americans.

102 Olnlntttal Olapitala nf tlf?
On the 39th, eeveral redoubts of the British on the westem
outskirts of the tovm were evacuated and occupied the next
day by the investing forces. Intermittent firing continued
until the completion of the American redoubts on the 9th
of October. From then until through the 16th, a terrific
cannonade by both armies with over three hundred pieces of
artillery was kept up almost incessantly. Dr. Thatcher, a
surgeon of Washington's army, has left an interesting account
of the siege. He said that during these six days the car
casses of six or seven hundred horses could be seen floating
down the river every day, showing to what straits for food
the British were put. A realistic picture of a bursting shell
is given in the following extract — "When a sheU falls, it
whirls around, burrows, and excavates the earth to a con
siderable extent, and, bursting, makes dreadful havoc around."
Many anecdotes are told of the solicitude of General
Washington'^ friends for his safety during this time. Once
when a shell exploded very near, one of his aids stepped up
and said, "Sir, you are too much exposed here, had you not
better step a little back?" Washington replied very quickly,
"Colonel Cobb, if you are afraid, you have liberty to step
back." Another time a ball rolled almost at his feet and General
Knox remonstrated, "Mfy dear General, we can't spare you
yet." "It is a spent ball and no harm is done," answered
Washington without moviag.
One of the chaplains of the American army was a clergy
man by the name of Evans. One day he was standing with

inmttttntt nf Utrgtttia 103
the General and his staff in a very exposed position, when a
ball struck the ground near and scattered some of the earth
upon the clergyman's hat. It alarmed him greatly, and he
evidently showed his terror ia his countenance as he tumed
to Washington with his hat off, saying, "See this. General !"
"You had better show your hat to your vnfe and children,"
replied the great commander. Col. Alexander Hamilton
commanded a smaU battery and, before storming a very
difficult redoubt, made a thrUUng speech to the men under
him, A group of officers standing near heard every word.
One of them tumed to another and said, "Did you ever hear
such a speech ?" "With such a speech I could storm  — "
came the reply.
On the night of October 16th, Cornwallis, realizing that
nothing but escape could save him, attempted to cross the
river to Gloucester Point, expecting to demolish the small
French force encamped there to watch Col. Tarleton's troops,
and to move off in full retreat untU a junction could be
formed with Sir Henry Cliaton in New York. A portion of
his army had crossed, and another detachment was on its
way over when a terrible storm of wind and raia, springing
up suddenly, nearly annihUated the whole company, obliging
them to give up the attempt.
On the 17th the British sent a flag of truce which resulted
in the surrender on the 19th.
A high stone monument, beautifully sculptured, stands in
an open field near the river, and bears a faithful record of
the events enacted around this historic town, the result of

104 Olnlntttal ©apttala nf tljt
which is expressed in the sculptured words, "One destiny,
one country, one constitution." The act to erect the monu
ment was adopted by Congress October, 39th, 1781, and ap
proved June 7th, 1880.
On the south side of this obelisk is engraved,
"At York on October 19, 1781, after a siege of 19 days
by 5500 American and 7000 French troops of the line, 3500 Virginia
Militia.
Under command of General Thomas Nelson, and 36 French ships of
war
Earl Comwallis, commander of the British Forces at York
and Gloucester surrendered his army 7251 offlcers and men
840 seamen, 244 cannon and 24 standards.
To His Excellency George Washington
commander-in-chief of the combined forces of America and France.
To His Excellency the Comte de Rochambeau
commanding the auxiliary troops of his most christian majesty ir
America.
And to His Excellency the Comte de Grasse
commanding in chief the naval reserves of France in Chesapeake.''
On the north side of the monument it is explained that —
"The provisional articles of peace concluded November 30, 1782.
And the definite treaty of Peace concluded September 3, 1783
Between the United States of America
And George III King of Great Britain and Ireland
Declare
His Britannic Majesty acknowledges the said United States Vis. —
New Hampshire, Massachusettes Bay, Rhode Island and Providence
Plantations, Connecticut, New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania,
Delaware, Maryland, Virginia, North Carolina, South Carolina
and Georgia, to be free soverign and independent states."
In the field which joias the tovra. on the south the surren
der took place. Dr. Thatcher, the surgeon who witnessed it,
has said in his account, "The French troops, in complete
uniform, displayed a martial and a noble appearance; their
band of music, of which the timbrel formed a part, is a de
Ughtful novelty, and produced, whUe marching to the

inmttttntt ttf Utrstttia 105
ground, a most enchantiag effect." According to tradition
the march rendered was, "The world's tumed upside down."
"The Americans, though not all in uniform, nor their dress
so neat, yet exhibited an erect, soldierly air, and every counte
nance beamed with satisfaction and joy. The concourse of
spectators from the country was prodigious, ia poiat of
numbers, probably equal to the mUitary; but universal
silence and order prevailed. It was about two o'clock when
the captive army advanced through the line formed for their
reception. Every eye was prepared to gaze on Lord Com
waUis, the object of peculiar interest and sohcitude; but he
dissappointed our anxious expectations; pretending indis
position, he made Gen. O'Hara his substitute as the leader-
of his army. This officer was foUowed by the conquered
troops in a slow and solemn step, with shouldered arms,
colors cased, and drums beatiag a British march. Having
arrived at the head of the line. Gen. O'Hara, elegantly
mounted, advanced to his Excellency, the commander-in-
chief, taking off his hat, and apologized for the non-appear
ance of Earl CornwaUis."
The British threw down their arms very angrily imtil
stopped by Gen. Lincoln.
After the formalities of the surrender were over. Col. Tarl
eton, riding a splendid animal, and in company with a num
ber of French officers, with whomi he was to dUie, was halted
by one of the citizens of the town and the horse he was rid
ing demanded by its owner. The colonel was advised by one
of the officers that it would be best to dismount, so he com
plied with the request of the animal's owner, and greatly to

106 Olnlntttal Olapttala nf tljr
his own chagrin, mounted a very ordinary beast and re
joined his companions, who promptly laughed over his dis
comfiture.

In recalling the events centered around this historic vU
lage, in fancy we might rise vrith Benjamin FrankUn and
drink to his celebrated toast — "Here's to George Washington,
the Joshua of America, who commanded the eun and moon
to stand still, and they stood stUl."

S^mpb If nxm

This farm is three-quarters of a mUe from Yorktown. It
is chiefiy noted because the terms of the surrender were
drawn up and signed in the parlor of the house on the place.
The buUding is a low, rambling, frame structure of quaint
design and is frequently called the "Moore House," after its
owners at that time. It is situated on a high bluff of the
river and has a beautiful lawn of some 300 yards, sloping
down to the water.
Though outside of the strong redoubts, a liae of en
trenchments runs through a pari of the farm.
The house was built ia 1713, and it is claimed that it was
the summer home of the colonial governor, Alexander Spots-
wood. Dr. W. Shield, who owned the place in 1834, in a
letter to Bishop Meade,* said that ia one of the old bury-
*]3iishop Meade's "Old Churches and Families of Virginia." Vol I,
p. 227.

MOORE HOUSE ON TEMPLE FARM.

inmttttntt nf Htrgtttia 107
ing grounds, known as the Temple, he found several frag
ments of stone which, placed together, speUed the govemor's
name. It is a weU known fact that Spotswood died at Anna
poUs just as he was undertaking a long joumey. Consider
ing the wildness of the country and the danger attached to
traveling at that time, it is more reasonable to suppose that
the remains were brought back by boat and interred at Temple
Form, instead of undertaking a long joumey by land to the
govemor's other home at Germ'aoana on the Eapidan river.
This so-called Temple is in one of the fields, about one-
fourth of a mile from the house, and on the margin of the
forest. It is entirely in ruins, but the traces remaining indicate
a round edifice, surrounded a few yards distant by a waU.
It is probable that it was a place of worship, a burial ground,
and a defence against Indian attack, all in one. The only
legible tombstone remaining is a flat slab with the insignia
of heraldry and the following inscription:
Major William Gooch,
Dyed October 29th, 1655.
Within this tomb there doth interred lie,
No shape, but substance, true nobility:
Itself though young in years, but twenty-nine.
Yet graced with nature's Morall and divine.
The church from him did good participate.
In counsil rare, fit to adorn a state.
All around this bit of mysterious ground are traces of an
ancient settlement. There is another old graveyard in a field
near the house.

108 Olnlntttal Olapitala nf tlj?
^romoromoiro
In the neighborhood of Yorktown there were formerly
several Indian settlements, prominent among which were
ChisMack and Werowocomoco. The precise location of
Werowocomoco has been the subject of much discussion by
historians. It was first fixed at "Shelly," a country home on
the Gloucester side of York river. The latest and most in
disputable theory is that it was on Portan bay, on the north
side of York river, several miles beyond Shelly. Smith
speaks of his adventures and visits to the Indian chief Pow
hatan quite frequently, but is never very accurate in respect to
distance. "At Werowocomoco," he says, "on the north side
of the river Pamunkee (York) was his (Powhatan's) resi
dence, when I was delivered him prisoner, some 14 myles
from James Towne, for the most part, he was resident."*
The place is chiefiy noted on account of the rom^antic
rescue of Capt. John Smith by Powhatan's daughter Matoa,
or Pocahontas. Smith tells the iacident very briefly in his
"Generall Historie." He says "A long consultation was held,
the conclusion of which was" that "two great stones were
brought before Powhatan, as many as could, laid hands on
him, dragged him to them, and thereon laid his head; and
being ready with their clubs to beat out his braias, Poca
hontas, the King's dearest daughter, when no entreaty could
prevail, got his head in her arms, laid her own upon his to
save him from death; whereat the Emperor was content he
•Book II, page 142, Smith's "Generall Historie."

inmttttntt nf Birsmta 109
should live to make him hatchets and her bells, beads, and
copper; for they thought him as weU of aU occupations as
themselves." Numerous incidents are told of the bravery of this Indian
girl, and many times she braved the wrath of the Indian
king in order to warn the white men, who came for com
and food, of treachery on the part of her father.
A great many anecdotes are told of the Indian chieftain,
Powhatan. Once when he was asked to come to Jamestown
to receive some presents recently received from England, he
sent this reply, "This is my country and I am as great a
king as your own. If you wish to see me come to my home."
So here to Werowocomoco canne Newport and Smith, briag-
ing the presents, a crown, scarlet robe, bed, basia, and pitcher.
The old chieftain objected very much to bendiag his head
to receive the crovra, but was quite delighted with the other
gifts. After arraying himself in the new robe, he gathered
up his old clothes, and handing the bundle to Newport direc
ted that it be sent to the king of England with his compli
ments. The Indians knew very little about figures and could sel
dom count without the aid of their fingers or some smaU ob
jects. It is told that Powhatan once sent one of his war
riors over to England to bring him back the exact number
of white people ia that land.

At Jamestown we find the birthplace of the American
Nation, at Williamsburg was sounded the prelude of liberty

110 ffiolantal CJapitala of ttje BBmintnn nf Btrginia
by the sweet voice of Patrick Henry, and at Yorktown the
last chord of the Grand Finale was struck with such force by
Washiagton and Lafayette, that it will never cease to echo
liberty.

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