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MORTON, BLISS & CO.,
Broad and Wall Streets, -New YorTc,
Receive money, and issue, free of commission,
CIRCULAR NOTES FOR TRAVELERS,
Which are paid by their Correspondents
IN ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD,
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OLD POINT COMFOET, "WA..,

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aim unving, specially attractive, bend for circular, describing hygienic advantaqes terms etc ' fei
=  —  ' ' ' H. PH<EBUS, Proprietor.

CHARLESTON HOTEL.

CHARLESTON, S. G.

I JACKSON & it,

PROPRIETORS.

PARTICULARLY DESIRABLE
FOR
VAXOImMBB AND
Summer Tourists.

(,(,

THE AMERICAN,"

BOSTON
Suites and Apartments, with Baths and Closets. Kunning Water in
every Chamber. No Dark Eoom in the House. Passenger Elevator. Six
Stairways, from top to bottom. Every Security against Fire.
Prices reduced to $3.00 and $3.50 per Day.
LEWIS RICE & SON.
THE
MINERAL SPRINGS

UNITED STATES AND CANADA.
With Analyses and Notes on the Prominent Spas op Europe, and a List
op Sea-side Resorts.
By JJEORGE E. WALTON, M. D.,
Committee of the Medical Association of the State of Ohio, on "Therapeutics of Mineral Springs.1
Second Edition, revised and enlarged.

1 vol., 12mo. 414 pag-es. "With Maps. Price, $2.00.

The author has arranged the springs of America and Europe in seven distinct classes,
giving the analysis of each, and described the diseases to which mineral waters are adapted,
with references to the class of waters applicable to the treatment ; also, the location, mode
of access, and post-office address of every spring:, are mentioned. In addition, the various
kinds of baths are described, and the appropriate use of them in the treatment of disease.
D. APPLETON & CO., Publishers,
549 & 551 Eroadway, New York,

*#* Sent free by mail to any address in the United States, on receipt of the price.

Collection of Foreign Authors.

The design of the " Collection of Foreign Authors "
is to give selections from the better current light lit
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European Continent, translated by competent hands.
The series is published in uniform 16mo volumes, at
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For Travelers by Sea and Land, for Females in Delicate Health, for Persons
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for Sailors, for Masters of Vessels, especially all going to Hot
Climates, the SELTZER APERIENT
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sufferers from late suppers, sufferers from abuse of liquors, sufferers
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MANUFACTURED ONLY BY
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And For Sale by
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SELTZEE

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WINDSOR HOTEL,
FIFTH AVENUE, 46tH & 47th STS, NEW YORK.

HAWK, WAITE, & WETHERBEE, PROPRIETORS.

The Windsor is more magnificent and commodious, and contains more real com
forts, than any other Hotel in America.
Its location is delightful, being surrounded by the most fashionable residences
in New York; it is also near the famous Central Park and within three minutes'
walk of the Grand Central Railway Station. The rooms, with all the modern im
provements, are especially adapted for travelers ; this Hotel also has elegant apart
ments, en suite for families, permanent or transient. The light, ventilation, and san
itary qualities, are perfect, and are not excelled by any hotel on either continent.
Its table is of unexceptionable excellence.

SAMUEI HAWK, CHARLES C. WAITE, GARDNER WETHERBEE
Of St. Nicholas Hotel. Of Brevoort House. late of Revere House, Boston.

APPLETONS'

ILLUSTRATED HAND-BOOK

AMERICAN

WINTER resorts

FOR TOURISTS AND INVALIDS.

WITH MAPS.

NEW YORK :
D. APPLETON AND COMPANY,
649 & 551 BROADWAY.
187?.

COPYRIGHT by
D APPLETON AND COMPANY,
1877.

Uniform with this volume :
" Hand-Book of Ameeican Cities." Illtjsteated.
"Hand-Book of Summee Resoets." Illtjsteated.

PREFACE,

The main object that has been kept in view in the preparation of this
" Hand-book of American Wintee Resoets " has been, to combine full
ness and precision of information with the utmost attainable economy of
space, and to present the information in such a manner as to secure the
greatest possible facility of consultation. Its comparative smallness of
dimension and consequent economy of price have been secured, not by
omitting material facts, but by studiously excluding all superfluous and
unimportant matter, and by a rigid condensation of style.
As the Hand-book is designed for invalids as well as tourists, consider
able space has been devoted to matters which in the previous volumes of
the series received but slight attention. In selecting a health-resort it is
not less necessary to know the physical character of a given locality,
whether mountainous or otherwise, for example, its soil, productions, and
vegetation, than to know its therm ometrical range and whether the atmos
phere is moist or dry. The temperature, of course, is a very important
point, and should be carefully analyzed ; but the mistakes oftenest made
by those seeking a winter residence undoubtedly arise from the idea that
temperature is the sole thing to be considered. In the following pages an
attempt is made to furnish iuvalids or physicians with all the facts as to
climatic and local conditions necessary to enable them to choose a resort
intelligently and confidently. Great pains have been taken to make the
information full, precise, and authentic; special care being bestowed upon
the statistics concerning temperature, rainfall, and diseases, which were
drawn only from the most trustworthy sources. While the special needs
of invalids are thus consulted, however, the other function of the book has
not bsen lost sight of; and tourists will find here a complete guide to all
the localities treated of.
Much care has been taken to make the Hand-book accurate and fully
up to date in its information ; but in dealing with so many and diverse
facts it is probable that some errors have crept in, and that there are some
omissions. The book will be kept standing in type and subjected to a
thorough annual revision, and the Editor will be grateful for any correc
tions or suggestions. Communications should be addressed to the Editoe
of Appletons' Hand-book of American' Wintee Resoets, care of D.
Appleton & Co., New York.

COpTTEpTTS.

PAdE
Preface  iii
Hints to Travelers  viii
JFlorioa  1
General Description  3
Climate and Healthfulness  5
Jacksonville  6
St. Augustine  7
Fernandina and Cedar Keys  13
Along the St. John's River  14
Up the Ocklawaha  19
Indian River  23
Lake City and Vicinity  24
The Tallahassee Country  24
Western Florida  25
The Gulf Coast  26
Key West  27
Hints for Sportsmen  29
Georgia Resorts  30
Savannah  32
Augusta  36
Thomasville. .'.  38
Mineral Springs  38
Mountain Region and Scenery  39
South Carolina Resorts  41
Charleston  42
Summerville  49
Aiken  49
Mineral Springs  53
The Mountain Region  54
North Carolina Resorts  55
The Mountain Region  57
Asheville  59
The Warm Springs  g2
Minnesota Resorts  g5
St. Paul  " 67
Minneapolis and St. Anthony  68
Winona  gg
Red Wing and Frontenac  gg
Faribault  *g
Arkansas Hot Springs  ^

CONTENTS. v
PAGE
Colorado Resorts  72
Denver  75
Colorado Springs and Vicinity  75
Pueblo and the Boiling Springs  77
Idaho Springs and Georgetown  77
North Park, Middle Park, and Hot Springs  78
South Park and San Luis Park  79
California Resorts  80
San Francisco  83
Santa Barbara  84
San Diego and Los Angeles  85
San Bernardino  86
Paso Robles Hot Springs  87
Sacramento  87
Stockton and Visalia  88
San Jos6 and the Santa Clara Valley  89
San Rafael and Monterey  90
Napa City and Calistoga  90
The Geyser Springs  91
Along the Lower Mississippi  92
New Orleans  97
The West Indies  104
Cuba  104
Isle of Pines  109
The Bahamas — Nassau  109
Jamaica  110
Hayti and Santo Domingo  112
Porto Rico  115
St. Thomas  US
Santa Cruz or St. Croix  117
St. Vincent  117
Barbadoes  117
Curacoa  118
"Down the Islands "  118
The Bermudas  121
The Sandwich Islands  12V
Honolulu  128
Maui and Lahaina  130
Hilo and the Volcanoes  131
Kauai  132
Table of Railway Fares  135
Index  137

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Map of Principal Routes of Travel, north of Washington, from Boston west to Omaha.
' By turning to the description of any route in the text, and then looking on the map for the principal stations mentioned there, it will be easy to trace
out any given line of travel.

Map of Principal Koutes of Travel, south of Washington.

HINTS TO TRAVELERS.

Railway-fakes, hotel-charges, etc., are, in most instances, given in the hody of
the Hand-Booe, but a word or two may prove useful at the outset.
The cost of traveling by rail in America is from two to three cents per mile, in
the Middle and Eastern States ; it is somewhat higher South and West. Children
under twelve years of age are generally charged half-price; those under five are
passed free. Sleeping-coaches are run on all through-trains; from $2 to $3 per
day (of 24 hours), in addition to the regular fare, is usually charged for them. The
average speed on express trains is 30 miles an hour. Travel on steamboats is
somewhat less expensive and less expeditious than by rail.
The charge at first-class hotels throughout the United States is from $4 to $4.50
a day, though good accommodations may be had at houses of the second class ($2.50
to $3.50 a day). A reduction is usually made on board by the week. The cost of
meals while traveling may be estimated at from $2 to $3 per day. The best hotels
in the various cities are designated in their proper places in the hody of the Hand
book ; they are named in what the editor believes to be the order of their merit.
Travelers from abroad will understand that the present currency in the United
States, with the exception of California, consists of U. S. Treasury notes (called
" greenbacks ") and National Bank bills. All prices are understood to be in this
paper, which is now at a discount for gold of from 5 to 10 per cent. In Califor
nia, gold and silver only are used. In Canada the currency is coin, or notes of the
local banks, which are at par.
It is the custom in America to deliver baggage to a person known as the bag
gage-master, who will give in return a " check " for every piece, on presentation of
which the baggage is delivered. Baggage may he checked over long routes in this
way, and the traveler, no matter how many times he changes cars or vehicles, has
no concern about it. The companies are responsible if the baggage should be injured
or lost, the check being evidence of delivery into their hands. The traveler should
first procure his ticket at the ticket-office, and then, proceeding to the baggage-car,
or proper station of the baggage-master, have his trunks checked. Arriving at his
destination, the check may be handed to the hotel-porter, always in waiting, who
will procure the various articles and have them sent to the hotel.
It is not necessary to fee porters and waiters in the United States, as it is in
Europe, but the practice has some slight and irregular observance. The traveler
is free to do as he pleases in the matter.
In all large cities there are omnibuses at the station on the arrival of every
train, which connect directly with the principal hotels. A small charge is made
for this conveyance.
As regards outfit, it is important for the traveler that he should be dressed with
sufficient warmth. Our American climate is very changeable, and the traveler had
better suffer at noonday from too much clothing than expose himself at night, in
storms, or to sudden changes of temperature, with too little. One should wear
woolen underclothing, both summer and winter, and always have a shawl or extra
wrapper of some kind at hand.
%* In addition to the Hand-Book of Winter Besoets, the traveler will need a
copy of Appletons' Railway Guide, published semi-monthly, with time-tables cor
rected to date ; price, twenty-five cents.

HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.

How to reach from the North. —
From New York, Boston, Phila
delphia, or Baltimore, Florida
may be reached either by land or
sea, and the traveler has a great
variety of routes to choose from.
We shall give first the ocean-
routes, and then a number of all-
rail routes, including in the latter
all the routes for which through-
tickets are sold by the Pennsyl
vania R. R. Co. Jacksonville is
assumed as the stopping-point of
all the routes, because it is a kind
of centre from which the prin
cipal points in Florida are most
easily accessible. The rates of
fare given are from New York:
from Philadelphia the price is
less, and from Baltimore $4
less.

Longitude West

from Greenwich

STEAMSHIP P.OTJTES.

1. From New York to Charleston via steamers leaving Pier 29 North River
every Wednesday and Saturday at 3 p. m. Time, about 3 days; fare (cabin), $20.

2 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.
These steamers make direct connection at Charleston with the steamers Dictator
and City Point, which run to Jacksonville via Savannah. Passengers who prefer it
can go from Charleston to Savannah by rail, and from Savannah to Jacksonville by
rail or by steamer (inside route).
2. New York to Savannah via steamers: Murray Line, sailing from Pier 16 East
River every Thursday at 3 p. m. ; Empire Line, sailing from Pier 43 North River
every Tuesday and Saturday at 3 p. m. Time, about 3 days; fare (cabin), $20.
From Savannah to Jacksonville via " outside line " of steamers (Wednesday and
Sunday at noon), or via "inside line'' (Wednesday at 8 a. m.).
3. A favorite route from New York is via the Old Dominion Line of steamships,
leaving Pier 37 North River every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, at 3 p. m., to
Norfolk, and thence by rail to Charleston or Savannah.
4. New York to Fernandina via steamers leaving Pier 3 North River every
Thursday at 3 p. m. From Fernandina to Jacksonville by rail or steamer,
5. Philadelphia to Savannah via steamers leaving Pier 22 every Saturday at
noon. Time, about 60 hours; fare (cabin), $20. From Savannah to Jacksonville
as in Route 2. ALL-KAIL KOUTES.
1. New York, Baltimore, West Point, Richmond. Greensboro', Charlotte,
Augusta, Savannah, Live Oak, Lake City, and Jacksonville. Fare, $36.05.
2. New York, Baltimore, West Point, Richmond, Greensboro', Charlotte,
Augusta, Yemassee, Savaunah, Live Oak, Lake City, and Jacksonville. Fare,
$36.05. 3. New York, Baltimore, West Point, Richmond, Petersburg, Weldbn, Raleigh,
Charlotte, Augusta, Savannah, Live Oak, Lake City, and Jacksonville. Fare, $38.05.
4. New York, Baltimore, West Point, Richmond, Petersburg, Weldon, Wil
mington, Columbia, Augusta, Savannah, Live Oak, Lake City, and Jacksonville.
Fare, $36.05.
5. New York, Baltimore, West Point, Richmond, Petersburg, Weldon, Wilming
ton, Florence, Charleston, Savannah, Live Oak, Lake City, and Jacksonville. Fare,
$36.05. 6. New York, Baltimore, Norfolk, Weldon, Wilmington, Columbia, Augusta,
Savannah, Live Oak, Lake City, and Jacksonville. Fare, $36.75.
7. New York, Baltimore, Norfolk, Weldon, Wifnington, Florence, Charleston,
Savannah, Live Oak, Lake City, and Jacksonville. Fare, $36.75.
8. New York, Baltimore, Norfolk, Weldon, Raleigh, Charlotte, Augusta, Macon,
Jesnp, Live Oak, Lake City, and Jacksonville. Fare, $38.75.
9. New York, Baltimore, Norfolk, Weldon, Wilmington, Columbia, Augusta,
Macon, Jesup, Live Oak, Laks City, and Jacksonville. Fare, $36.75.
10. New York, Baltimore, Norfolk. Weldon, Wilmington, Columbia, Augusta,
Yemassee, Savannah, Live Oak, Lake City, and Jacksonville. Fare, $36.75.
11. New York, Washington, Quantico, Richmond, Petersburg, Wei Ion, Wil
mington, Columbia, Augusta, Savannah, Live Oak, Lake City, and Jacksonville
Fare, $36.75.
12. New York, Washington, Quantico, Richmond, Petersburg, Weldon Wil
mington, Florence, Charleston, Savannah, Live Oak, Lake City, and Jacksonville
Fare, $36.75.
13. New York, Washington, Quantico, Richmond, Petersburg, Weldon Wil
mington, Columbia, Augusta, Macon, Jesup, Live Oak, Lake City, and Jacksonville
Fare, $36.75.
14. New York, Washington, Quantico, Richmond, Greensboro'. Charlotte
Augusta, Savannah, Live Oak, Lake City, and Jacksonville. Fare, $36.75.
15. New York, Washington, Quantico, Richmond, Greensboro', Charlotte
Augusta, Macon, Jesup, Live Oak, Lake City, and Jacksonville. Fare, $36.75
16. New York, Washington, Quantico, Richmond. Petersbura, Weldon. Raieio-h
Charlotte, Augusta, Macon, Jesup, Live Oak, Lake City, and Jacksonville Fare'
$38.75. '

FLORIDA. 3
17. New York, Washington, Quantico, Richmond, Greensboro', Charlotte, Au
gusta, Yemassee, Savannah, Live Oak, Lake City, and Jacksonville. Fare, $36.75.
18. New York, Washington, Quantico, Richmond, Petersburg, Weldon, Wil
mington, Columbia, Augusta, Yemassee, Savannah, Live Oak, Lake City, and Jack
sonville. Fare, $36.75.
19. New York, Washington, Quantico, Richmond, Greensboro', Charlotte, Colum
bia, Charleston, Savannah, Live Oak, Lake City, and Jacksonville. Fare, $36.75.
20. New York, Washington, Quantico, Richmond, Greensboro', Charlotte, At
lanta, Macon, Jesup, Live Oak, Lake City, and Jacksonville. Fare, $36.75.
21. New York, Washington, Lynchburg, Danville, Greensboro', Charlotte,
Augusta, Yemassee, Savannah, ' Live Oak, Lake City, and Jacksonville. Fare,
$36.75. 22. New YTork, Washington, Lynchburg, Danville, Greensboro', Charlotte, Au
gusta, Savannah, Live Oak, Lake City, and Jacksonville. Fare, $36.75.
23. New York, Washington, Lynchburg, Danville, Greensboro', Charlotte, Au
gusta, Macon, Jesup, Live Oak, Lake City, and Jacksonville. Fare, $36.75.
24. New York, Washington, Lynchburg, Danville, Greensboro', Charlotte, Co
lumbia, Charleston, Savannah, Live Oak, Lake City, and Jacksonville. Fare,
$36.75. 25. New York, Washington, Lynchburg, Bristol, Dalton, Atlanta, Macon, Jesup,
Live Oak, Lake City, and Jackson\ille. Fare, $36.75.
26. New York, Washington, Quantico, Richmond, Greensboro', Charlotte, At
lanta, Macon, Brunswick, Fernandina, Jacksonville. Fare, $36.75.
27. New York, Washington, Lynchburg, Danville, Greensboro', Charlotte, At
lanta, Macon, Brunswick, Fernandina, and Jacksonville. Fare, $36.75.
28. New York, Washington, Quantico, Richmond, Petersburg, Weldon, Wil
mington, Columbia, Augusta, Macon, Brunswick, Fernandina, and Jacksonville.
Fare, $36.75.
29. New York, Washington, Quantico, Richmond, Greensboro', Charlotte, Au
gusta, Macon, Brunswick, Fernandina, and Jacksonville. Fare, $36.75.
30. New York, Washington, Lynchburg, Danville, Greensboro', Charlotte, At
lanta, Macon, Jesup, Live Oak, Lake City, and Jacksonville. Fare. $80.75.
General Description. — Florida is the southernmost State of the Union, and is situ
ated between lat. 24° 30' and 31° N., and Ion. 80° and 87° 45' W. inclusive of
islands, it consists of a long, narrow strip of territory, extending in the form of a
peninsula south from Georgia and Alabama, through five degrees of latitude, and
containing 59,268 square miles. Its entire area eastward lies upon the Atlantic,
and the Gulf of Mexico washes almost the whole of the western side. The coast
line is of much greater extent than that of any other State, having a length of
472 miles on the Atlantic, and 674 miles on the Gulf; lut this immense stretch
of sea-front is almost inaccessible on account of shallow soundings, and has few
good harbors. South from the mainland a chain of small, rocky islands, called
" Keys," extends southwest, ending in a cluster of rocks and sand-banks called the
Tortugas. South of the bank upon which these keys arise, and separated from them
by a navigable channel, is a long, narrow coral-reef, known as the Florida reef,
which here constitutes the left bank of the Gulf Stream. The most important of the
keys is Key West. The surface of Florida is for the most part level, yet undulat
ing, being nowhere more than 250 or 300 feet above the sea. The southern
part of the peninsula is mostly an extensive swamp or marsh called the Everglades,
which, during the rainy season between June and October, is impassable. North of
this tract to Georgia the surface is generally a dead level, but in some parts it is un
dulating and occasionally hilly. West of the neck of the peninsula ihe ground is
more uneven and rugged, though the elevations are still slight and of very limited
extent. The lands are almost sui generis, very curiously distributed, and may be
designated as high hammock, low hammock, swamp, savannas, and the different
qualities of pine-land. High hammock is usually timbered with live and other oaks,
with magnolia, laurel, etc., and is considered the best description of land for general
purposes. Low hammock, timbered with live and water oak, is subject to overflows,

4 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.
but when drained is preferred for sugar. Savannas, on the margins of streams and in
detached bodies, are usually very rich and alluvious, yielding abundantly in dry sea
sons, but needing, at other times, ditching and diking. Marsh savannas, on the bor
ders of tide-streams, are very valuable, when reclaimed, for rice or sugar-cane. The
lake called the Everglades is filled with islands covered with a dense jungle of
vines and evergreens, pines, and palmettos. It lies south of Okechobee, and is 160

Light-house on Florida

miles long and 60 broad Its depth varies from one to six feet. A rank tall grass
springs from the vegetable deposits at the bottom, and, rising above the surface of
the water gives the lake the deceitful air of a beautiful verdant lawn. Throughout
the State the warmth and humidity of the climate compensate in a great measure
for the inferior character of the soil, and give it a vegetation of great variety and
luxuriance. The productions are chiefly those which require a tropical sun: cotton,
coffee, cocoa, sugar-cane, tobacco, rice, indigo, etc. Oranges, lemons, limes, pine
apples, bananas, olives, and grapes, flourish luxuriantly; and garden vegetables are
produced in the greatest abundance. The driest seasons are relieved by heavy dews,
and the sun that would bake the earth in other parts and wither vegetation is so
tempered by the prevailing moisture as to cover the surface with perennial verdure.
The rivers of Florida are numerous, and mgny of them afford excellent facilities
for internal navigation. The most important are the St. John's, Indian River, Car-
loosahatchee and Withlacoochee, the Suwanee, the Appalachicola, and the St. Mary's.
A multitude of lakes dot the surface of the country, some of which are navigable for
large steamers. Lake Okechobee, north of the Everglades, is about 40 miles long
and 30 wide. Many of these waters are extremely picturesque in their unique

FLORIDA. 5
beauty of wild and rank tropical vegetation ; presenting everywhere to the eye of
the stranger very novel attractions, in the profusion and variety of the trees and
shrubs and vines which line all their shores and bayous.
The Climate. — The climate of Florida is one of the finest in the world : though ten
degrees nearer the equator than Southern Italy, the temperature is no warmer, and
the air far more equable and dry. The reason for this has never been clearly
established; but it is well known that, while the Gulf Stream carries off immense
quantities of the surplus heat of the region, branches of the returning arctic current
also lave its shores and assist in maintaining the surprising equilibrium of its tem
perature. Be the cause what it may, however, there can be no doubt of the fact,
which has been established by a long series of the most careful observations. The
following meteorological summary, from observations made at Jacksonville (lat. 30°
15'), is reported by the chief signaLofficer of the United States :

Mean
Barometer.

Mean
Theimometer,

Total Rainfall,
Inches.

Prevailing Wind.

1871.. 1872.

October 
November 
December 
January 
February 
March 
April 
May 
June 
July 
August 
September 
Annual mean

30.13130.091SO. 226
30.174 S9.993
80.10230.11330.08930.07230.089
30.06330.065

73.5 65.455.4 52.753.959.173.578.381.ll83.4
81.477.7

2.653.442.707.322.39 1.25
6.97
2.926.41
10.65

30.101

69.i

53.95

Northeast.
Northeast. Northwest.
Northwest. Southwest.Northeast.
Northeast. Southwest.Southwest. Southeast.
NovtheaBt.Northeast.Northeast.

In the south the temperature scarcely changes the year round, and summer is only
distinguished by the copiousness of its showers. The average mean temperature of
the State is 73°" F., and the difference between summer and winter does not gener
ally exceed 20°, while at Key West it is not more than 11°. The thermometer
seldom rises above 90° in summer, and rarely falls below 30° in winter ; on the
average the winters are thirty or forty degrees warmer than in New York, while
the summer months of the latter are ten or fifteen degrees hotter than in Florida.
Frost is unknown in Southern Florida, and is comparatively light even in the
northern part of the State. It occurs most frequently between November and
March, being most frequent in December and January, and rarely showing itself in
October and April as far north as Jacksonville. As a general thing no frost occurs
throughout the year below lat. 28° N. Summer being the rainy season in Florida,
the winters are usually clear and dry. By observations taken for a period of
twenty-two years at Jacksonville it was found that January averaged 20 clear days;
February, 19; March, 20; April, 25; May, 22 ; June, 17; July, 18; August, 19; Sep
tember, 17; October, 19; November, 20, and December, 20. It must not be
inferred, moreover, that rain fell on all the days which could not be registered as
clear; it may be said in general terms that from October to May there are not more
than four or five rainy days in a month. In addition to the mildness of the climate,
it is believed that the immense pine-forests which cover a large part of the State
contribute greatly to its healthfulness. The delicious terehinthine odors exhaled by
these forests not only purify the atmosphere, but impart to it a hea-ing, soothing,
and peculiarly inyigorating quality.
Hcalthfnlness, etc. — Owing to the evenness and salubrity of its climate, as above
indicated, Florida has long been a popular resort for invalids, and especially those
afflicted with pulmonary complaints. Of the total deaths from all causes in Florida
in 1870, as reported by the Federal census, only 131 were from consumption. There
were 17.3 deaths from other causes to one from consumption. The advantages of
the /climate in this respect are further shown by a comparison of the statistics relat
ing to consumption as reported by the census of 1870, from which it appears that

6 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.
the ratio of deaths from consumption to those from all causes was less in Florida
than in any other State except Nevada ; and this advantage becomes still greater
when it is considered that, Florida being a popular resort for consumptives, a large
proportion of those who die there from that cause came with the disease from other
States. Including only the resident population the deaths from consumption in
Florida average 1 in 1,457, while in Massachusetts the average is as high as 1 in 254.
" The mortality among visitors suffering from consumption is not very large," says
Dr. Howe, in his " Winter Homes for Invalids," " but would be still less if physi
cians, with little knowledge and less conscience, would abstain from sending their
patients there in the last stages of the disease, when every earthly hope of their
recovery had gone. Many unfortunates are sent every year to Florida with life
ebbing out rapidly, and by men who cannot possibly have an intelligent hope of
their recovery. Needing nothing but the soothing attentions of the home circle,
of sympathizing friends to comfort them as they pass down the dark valley, they
are torn away, sent on a wearisome journey to a strange land, among strangers to
die. This course is so cruel and absurd that it would almost seem needless to
reiterate the advice previously given, that only those in the incipient stages of con
sumption should venture from a good home for the uncertainties of recovery in a
distant country."
A common impression about Florida is that, while its climate is beneficial to
consumptives, it is peculiarly productive of malarial diseases, and that the mortality
from these diseases is excessive. How utterly mistaken this impression is is shown
by the following extract from a report of U. S. Surgeon-General Lawson : " The
statistics in this Bureau demonstrate the fact that the diseases which result from
malaria are of a much milder type in the peninsula of Florida than in any other
State in the Union. ... In the Middle Division of the United States the proportion
is one death to thirty-six cases of remittent fever ; in the Northern Division, one to
fifty-two ; in the Southern Division, one to fifty-four ; in Texas, one to seventy-
eight ; in California, one to one hundred and twenty-two ; in New Mexico, one to
one hundred and forty-eight ; while in Florida it is but one to two hundred ani
eighty-sewn." It may be added that malarial fevers are rarely originated except in
the " hammocks," where the clayey soil holds the water, and the drainage is con
sequently imperfect ; and the breezes sweeping across the peninsula dissipate and
dilute all malarious exhalations. Jacksonville.
Hjw to reach. — Jacksonville is reached from the North by any of the routes
given at the commencement of this chapter. It is at the terminus of the Jackson
ville, Pensacola & Mobile R. R., which, connecting at Live Oak with the Atlantic
& Gulf R. R., forms an all-rail line between Jacksonville and Savannah, over
which through-trains run twice a day in winter. Branches of this road also connect
Jacksonville with Tallahassee and Monticello. At Baldwin (20 miles from Jackson
ville) the J., P. & M. R. R. is crossed by the railroad which connects Fernandina
on the Atlantic with Cedar Keys on the Gulf coast. A tri-weekly line of steamers
(the " outside line ") plies between Jacksonville and Charleston, and another (the
" inside line ") between Jacksonwille and Savannah. Daily lines of steamers run up
the St. John's River to Enterprise (205 miles), and small steamboats run from Jack
sonville up the Ocklawaha via Pilatka. The St. John's Railway, connecting at
Tocoi with the river-steamboats, puts Jacksonville in easy communication with St.
Augustine. Hotels and Boirding-Hoiises. — The principal hotels are the St. James ($4 a day) •
the Windsor ($4 a day); the Carleton ($4, new and elegant); the Grand National '•
the Waverley ($3), and the Monerief ($2.50). There are said to be upward of
a hundred boarding-houses, at which the prices range from $10 to $20 per week.
Among the best of these are those kept by the Misses Mattair, Mrs. Henderson
and Mrs. Ochas, and Messrs. Keen, Stickney, and Robinson. Good furnished
rooms, including lights, fuel, and attendance, may be had in private houses for from
$4 to $0 per week, and board without rooms is $11 per week at the hotels and

ST. AUGUSTINE. 7
less at the hoarding-houses. Unfurnished cottages can be hired for from $20 to $30
per month.
Jacksonville, the largest city in Florida, is situated on the right bank of the St.
John's river, about 25 miles from its mouth. It was named after General Andrew
Jackson, was laid out as a town in 1822, had a population of 1,045 in 1850, and of
6,912 in 1870. In 1875 its resident population was about 14,000, which is largely
increased during the winter by transient visitors. The city is regularly laid out,
with streets crossing eacli other at right angles and shaded with trees. The prin
cipal thoroughfare is Bay Street, and on this are situated the leading hotels and
stores. On the northwest side of the city is a picturesque bluff, covered with fine
residences, and commanding a beautiful view of the river. There are several sub
urban villages (East Jacksonville, Oakland, Wyoming, Brooklyn, River Side, La-
Villa, South Shore, and Alexandria), which are connected with the city by ferry.
Besides several good schools, Jacksonville contains Catholic, Episcopal, Presby
terian, Methodist, and Baptist churches; a circulating library and a free reading-
room; half a dozen newspapers; banks, public halls, and telegraphic connections
with all parts of the United States. The commerce of the city is extensive, the chief
business being the cutting and shipment of lumber. There are several large saw
mills, and the shipments amount to about 50,000,000 feet annually ; cotton, sugar,
fruit, fish, and early vegetables, are also shipped to Northern and foreign ports.
Jacksonville is much resorted to by invalids on account of its mild and salubrious
climate, the details concerning which are given on a preceding page under " Cli
mate." Many prefer remaining here to going farther into the interior, on account
of the superior accommodations which it offers and its social advantages. Among
the amusements are excursions on the river and drives on the excellent shell-roads
which lead out of the city. A favorite drive is to Moncriefs Spring (4 milts), a
mineral spring whose waters are said to cure malarial diseases. There are bath
houses here, a restaurant, a bowling-alley, a dancing-pavilion, and a race-course.
St. Augustine.
How to reach. — St. Augustine is reached from Jacksonville by daily steamer to
Tocoi on the St. John's River (57 miles), and thence by railway (15 miles ; fare,
$2.50). The steamboat journey is over one of the most attractive reaches of the
river (see " Along the St. John's "), and from the cars the traveler has an excellent
chance to see a veritable Florida back-country. For the most part the route crosses
barren pine-flats ; there is not a house to be seen, nor a sign of life save when
the roll of the wheels startles an alligator that has been slumbering on the track.
The entrance to the city is exceedingly picturesque, and should be noted by the
traveler. Hotels and Boardin»-Himses.— The principal hotels are the St. Augustine, fronting
on the Plaza and Charlotte St. ($4 a day) ; ' the Florida, corner St. George and
Treasury Sts. ($4 a day) ; the Magnolia, St George St. near the Plaza ($4 a day) ;
the Marion, Charlotte St. north of the Plaza ($3 a day) ; and the Oriental, Char
lotte St., near the Plaza ($3 a day). There are also numerous boarding-houses at
which board and rooms may be had for from $10 to $15 a week ; among them may
he mentioned those of Mrs. M. L. Abbott, Miss Julia Stinson, Mrs. J. V. Hernandez,
Mrs. Couper Gibbs, Mrs. Patterson, and Mrs. Papy.
Location, Climate, and History. — St. Augustine is situated on the Atlantic coast of
Florida, about 40 miles south of the mouth of the St. John's River, and 33 southeast
of Jacksonville. It occupies a narrow peninsula formed by the Matanzas River on
the east, and the St. Sebastian on the south and west, the site being a flat, sandy
level, encompassed for miles around by a tangled undergrowth of low palmettos and
bushes of various descriptions. Directly in front lies Anastasia Island, forming a
natural breakwater and almost entirely cutting off the sea-view. On the north end
of the island is a lighthouse with a revolving light, situated in lat. 29° 53' N., and
Ion. 81° 16' W.
The climate of St. Augustine is singularly equable both winter and summer, the
mean annual temperature being 70°. The mean temperature for winter is 58.08° ;

8 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.
for spring, 68.54°; for summer, 80.27°; and for autumn, 71.73°. Frosts seldom
occur even in mid-winter, and the sea-breezes temper the heats of summer so that
they are quite endurable. Many consumptives frequent St. Augustine, and with
marked benefit; but the air is regarded as rather " strong " for those who have
passed the earlier stages of the disease, and no one should remain there in January
and February who cannot stand an occasional cold northeaster. Asthma is also
thought to be relieved by residence at St. Augustine, and the place is exceptionally
free from malarial diseases.
St. Augustine is the oldest European settlement in the United States, and its
history carries us back almost to the middle ages. It was founded by the Spaniards
in 1565, more than half a century before the landing of the Pilgrims at Plymouth,
and was from the start a place of note, and the scene of interesting historical events.
Its founder, Don Pedro Menendez, was one of the most eminent men of Spain, and
a famous commander during the reign of Philip II., by whom he was sent to Florida
at the head of an expedition comprising 34 vessels and 2,600 persons, to colonize
the country and suppress a Huguenot settlement made in 1564 near the mouth of the
St. John's. He landed at St. Augustine on August 28, 1565, established his colony,
and then marched to exterminate the Huguenots, which he effected with great vigor
and cruelty, putting to death all his prisoners, " not because they are Frenchmen,
but because they are heretics and enemies of God." Two years later, this massacre
was avenged by a French adventurer, Dominique de Gourgues, who, with a small
force of volunteers, attacked and captured the Spanish forts on the St. John's, and
hanged his prisoners, "not because they are Spaniards, but because they are traitors,
robbers, and murderers." De Gourgues, however, made no attempt to retain his
conquest, but, after his deed of retribution was accomplished, sailed back to France.
Menendez was absent in Spain during this attack by De Gourgues, and did not return
until the affair was over. He continued for some years longer to rule the colony,
but finally returned to Spain, where his reputation for ability was so high that he
was made captain-general of the navy, soon after which he died, at the age of fifty-
five. His career in Florida, thougli stained with cruelty, was distinguished for
energy and perseverance, and to him, undoubtedly, is due the credit of establishing
the first permanent settlement in the United States.
In 1586 Sir Francis Drake, the famous English filibuster, returning from an
expedition against the Spanish West Indies, appeared off St. Augustine, and so ter
rified the Spaniards that they abandoned the fort and the town to him without any
attempt at resistance, and fled to the shelter of the forts on the St. John's. Drake took
possession, and pillaged and burned the town, carrying away considerable booty.
The principal public buildings of the place at that time were a court-house, a church,
and a monastery. After the departure of Drake, the Spaniards returned and re
built the town, which, however, grew so slowly that in 1647 there were within its
walls only 300 families, or 1,500 inhabitants, including 50 monks of the order of St.
Francis. In 1665 a party of English buccaneers, commanded by Captain John
Davis, made a descent upon St. Augustine with seven small vessels, and pillaged the
town. The garrison, though consisting of 200 men, do not appear to have resisted
the attack, which, it is probable, was made from the south by boats. In 1702,
Spain and England being at war, an expedition against St. Augustine was organized
in South Carolina, by Governor Moore, of that colony. It consisted of 600 whites,
and as many Indian allies, and its plan of operations comprised a march by land of
one portion of the force, and an attack by sea of the other. The land force was
commanded by Colonel Daniel, the naval force by Governor Moore himself The
forces under Colonel Daniel reached St. Augustine before the naval part of the ex
pedition appeared, and easily captured the town; the governor, Don Joseph Cuniga
and the inhabitants, taking refuge in the castle, which was well supplied with pro
visions, and contained a considerable garrison. Governor Moore, with the fleet soon
after arrived, and invested the fortifications, but, not having siege-guns of sufficient
calibre, could make no impression on the walls of the fort. Colonel Daniel was
sent to Jamaica to procure heavier guns. While he was absent, two Spanish vessels
appeared off the harbor. Governor Moore, fearing that he was about to be attacked

ST. AUGUSTINE. 9
by a superior force and his retreat cut off, hastily raised the siege, destroying such
of his munitions as he could not remove, and barbarously burning the town. He
retreated by land, abandoning his vessels for fear of the Spanish squadron. Shortly
afterward, Coloniel Daniel returned from Jamaica with mortars and heavy guns,
but found Moore gone, and was himself nearly captured. The expedition returned
to Carolina in disgrace, but without the loss of a man. It cost the colony of South
Carolina £6,000, and led to the issue of the first paper-money ever circulated in
America. In 1727 Colonel Palmer, an energetic officer, made a raid into Florida
with about 300 Carolina militia, and carried destruction by fire and sword to the
very gates of St. Augustine, which, however, he dared not attack, though he sacked
a Yemassee village about a mile north of the city. In 1740, war again existing be
tween Spain and England, an expedition against St. Augustine was organized by the
famous General Oglethorpe, then Governor of Georgia. He obtained assistance from
South Carolina, and from England a naval force of six ships. About the 1st of June
his forces reached St. Augustine, which was defended by a not very numerous gar
rison commanded by Don Manuel de Monteano, the Governor of Florida, a man of
energy and resolution. After a siege of five or six weeks, carried on chiefly by
bombardment from Anastasia Island, Oglethorpe became satisfied that he could not
take the place, especially as his fleet had withdrawn in apprehension of bad weather,
and he accordingly embarked his troops and sailed away on July 9th. Two years
later, the Spanish Governor of Florida, the energetic Monteano, having received re-
enforcements from Cuba, sailed from St. Augustine with 36 vessels and 3,000 men
to attack the English settlements in Georgia. He met with some success at first, but
was finally baffled, partly by the force and partly by the finesse of Oglethorpe, and
returned to Florida. In the following year (1743) Oglethorpe made a raid into the
Spanish dominions to the gates of St. Augustine, advancing with such celerity and
secrecy that the Indians attached to his force captured and scalped forty of the
Spanish troops under the very walls of Fort St. Marks, the chief defense of the city.
The British kept possession of Florida about 20 years, and then, iD 1783, receded it
to Spain in exchange for the Bahama Islands. St. Augustine, at that time, con
tained 3,000 inhabitants. In 1819 it was transferred to the United States. During
the civil war it changed masters three times. The resident population at the present
time is about 2,200; but this is increased by from 7,000 to 10,000 visitors during
the winter, and St. Augustine is then one of the gayest places in the South.
Streets, Drives, etc. — "The aspect of St. Augustine," says Mrs. Beecher Stowe, "is
quaint and strange, in harmony with its romantic history. It has no pretensions to
architectural richness or beauty ; and yet it is impressive from its unlikeness to any
thing else in America. It is as if some little, old, dead-alive Spanish town, with its
fort and gateway and Moorish bell-towers, had broken loose, floated over here, and
got stranded on a sand-bank. Here you see the shovel-hats and black gowns of
priests ; the convent with gliding figures of nuns ; and in the narrow, crooked
streets meet dark-browed people, with great Spanish eyes and coal-black hair. The
current of life here has the indolent, dreamy stillness that characterizes life in Old
Spain. In Spain, when you ask a man to do anything, instead of answering as we
do, 'In a minute,' the invariable reply is, 'In an hour;' and the growth and prog
ress of St. Augustine have been according. There it stands, alone, isolated, con
nected by no good roads or navigation, with the husy, living world." There are four
principal streets which extend nearly the whole leDgth of the city — Tolomato, St.
George (the Fifth Avenue of the place), Charlotte, and Bay. The latter commands
a fine view of the harbor, Anastasia Island, and the ocean. All the streets are ex
tremely narrow, the thoroughfares being only 12 or 15 feet wide, while the cross-
streets are narrower still. An advantage of these narrow streets in this warm cli
mate is that they give shade, and increase the draught of air through them as through
a flue. The principal streets were formerly paved with shell-concrete, portions of
which are still to be seen above the shifting sand ; and this flooring was so carefully
swept that the dark-eyed maidens of Old Castile, who then led society here, could
pass and repass without soiling their satin slippers. No rumbling wheels were per
mitted to crush the firm road-bed, or to whirl the dust into the airy verandas. All
2

10

HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.

the old Spanish residences are built of coquina-stone, which is first stuccoed and
then whitewashed. Many of them have hanging balconies along their second stories,
which in the narrow streets seem almost to touch, and from which their respective

A Street iu St. Augustine.

occupants can chat confidentially and even shake hands. It must not be supposed,
however, that St. Augustine is built wholly of coquina and in the Spanish style ;
there are many fine residences there in the American style, and in a few years St.
Augustine will rival Newport in the number of its villas. A profusion of oranges,
lemons, bananas, figs, date-palms, and all manner of tropical flowers and shrubs,

ST. AUGUSTINE.

11

ornament their grounds. A charming drive is out St. George Street, through the
City Gate to the beach of the San Sebastian.
Places of Resort. — The most interesting feature of the town is the old Fort of San
Marco (now Fort Marion), which is built of coquina, a unique conglomerate of fine
shells and sand found in large quantities on Anastasia Island, at the entrance of the
harbor, and quarried with great ease, though it becomes hard by exposure to the air.
It is quarried in large blocks, and forms a wall well calculated to resist cannon-shot,
because it does not splinter when struck. The fort stands on the sea-front at the
northeast end of the town. It was a hundred years in building, and was completed
in 1756, as is attested by the following inscription, which may still be seen over the
gateway, together with the arms of Spain, handsomely carved in stone : "Don Fer
nando being King of Spain, and the Field-Marshal Don Alonzo Fernando Herida
being governor and captain-general of this place, St. Augustine of Florida and its
provinces, this fort was
finished in the year 1756.
The works were directed
by the Captain-Engineer
Don Pedro de Brazos y
Gareny." While owned
by the British, this was
said to be the prettiest fort
in the king's dominions.
Its castellated battle
ments ; its formidable bas
tions, with their frowning
guns ; its lofty and impos
ing sally-port, surrounded
by the royal Spanish arms ;
its portcullis, moat, and
drawbridge ; its circular
and ornate sentry-boxes at
each principal parapet-
angle ; its commanding
lookout tower ; and its
stained and moss-grown
massive walls — impress
the external observer as a
relic of the distant past;
while a ramble through
its heavy casemates — its
crumbling Romish chapel,
with elaborate portico and
inner altar and holy- water
niches ; its dark passages,
gloomy vaults, and more
recently - discovered dun
geons — bring you to ready
credence of its many tra
ditions of inquisitorial tor
tures ; of decaying skele
tons, found in the latest-
opened chambers, chained
to the rusty ring-bolts,
and of alleged subterra
nean passages to the neigh
boring convent. Next to the fort the great attraction is the Sca-Wall, which, begin
ning at the water-battery of the fort, extends southward for nearly a mile, protecting
the entire ocean-front of the city. It is built of coquina, with a granite coping

Augustine Cathedral.

12

HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.

four feet wide, and furnishes a delightful promenade of a moonlight evening. In
full view of this is the old lighthouse on Anastasia Island, built more than a cen
tury ago, and a new one surmounted with a revolving lantern. Near the south end
of the wall are the United States Barracks, which are among the finest and most
complete in the country. The building was formerly a Franciscan monastery, but
has undergone extensive modifications and repairs. The old Spanish wall, which
extended across the peninsula from shore to shore and protected the city on the
north, has crumbled down or been removed, but fhe City Gate, which originally
formed a part of it, still stands at the head of St. George street. It is a pictu
resque and imposing structure, with its ornamented lofty towers and loop-holes and
sentry-boxes in a fair state of preservation.
In the centre of the town is the Plaza de la Constitution, a fine public square,
surrounded by a fence and furnished with seats which are seldom unoccupied during
the winter season.
Nearly in the centre
of the square stands
a monument, about
20 feet high, erected
in 1812 in commem
oration of the Span
ish Liberal Consti
tution. Fronting on
the Plaza are several
imposing buildings,
the most striking of
which is the old Cath
olic Cathedral, erected
in 1793 at a cost of
$17,000. Its quaint
Moorish belfry, with
four bells set in sep
arate niches, togeth
er with the clock,
form a perfect cross.
One of the bells bears
the date of 1682.
A neat Episcopal
church also fronts
on the Plaza, and
there are Methodist,
Baptist, and Presby
terian churches in
the city. The old
Convent of St.
Mary's is an inter
esting building, lo
cated on St. George
Street, just west of
the Cathedral. In its
rear is a more mod
ern structure desig
nated as the Bishop's
Palace. The new
Convent of the Sis
ters of St. Joseph is a
tasteful coquina building on St. George Street, south of the Plaza; the old convent of
this sisterhood is on Charlotte Street, north of the Barracks. The nuns are mainly
occupied in teaching young girls, but they also manufacture lace of a very fine quality,

The Convent-Gate.

FERNANDINA AND CEDAR KEYS. 1;]
and excellent palmetto hats. After the Cathedral, the most imposing edifice on
the Plaza is the Governor's Palace, formerly the residence of the Spanish Governors,
but now used as Post-Office, City Clerk's Office, and Public Library. It is situated
at the corner of St. George and King Streets. An older house than this, formerly oc
cupied by the Attorney-General, was pulled down a few years ago. Its ruins are still
a curiosity, and are called (though incorrectly) the Governor's house. The old Hu
guenot Bnrying-Gronnd, on King Street near the City Gate, is a spot of much interest ;
and so is the Military Bitrying-Ground (just south of the Barracks), where rest the
remains of those who fell near here during the prolonged Seminole War. Under
three pyramids of coquina, stuccoed and whitened, are the ashes of Major Dade and
117 men of his command, who were massacred by Oceola and his band. The Sol
diers' Monument, erected in 1871, in honor of the Confederate dead, is located on
St. George Street, just south of Bridge Street. On St. George Street, near the City
Gate, is a famous Rose-tree of many years' growth ; the trunk is as large as a man's
arm, and the tree bears from 500 to 1,000 roses in a season.
Although the severe frost of 1835 killed all the trees and nearly put a stop to the
culture of the orange in this part of Florida, there are many fine orange-groves in
the environs of St. Augustine, and visits to them are among the unfailing delights
of visitors. The harbor affords excellent opportunities for boating, and numerous
points of interest attract excursion-parties. Among tlie most popular of these are
those to the North Bench, one of the finest on the coast, affording an admirable view
of the ocean ; to the South Beach ; to the sand-hills, where General Oglethorpe
planted his guns and laid siege to Fort Marion ; to Fish's Island ; and to the light
houses and coquina- quarries on Anastasia Island. A pleasant trip is to Matanzas,
where are the ruins of a fortress more ancient than any structure in the city itself;
and Matanzas Inlet affords excellent camping-places for hunting and fishing parties.
About 2£ miles off Matanzas an immense Sulphur Spring boils up out of the ocean
where the water is 132 feet deep, and is well worth a visit. Salt-water bathing may
be practised at St. Augustine in suitable bathing-houses, but the sharks render open
sea-bathing dangerous. Fernandina and Cedar Keys.
Fernandina is an interesting old seaport town, situated on the west shore of
Amelia Island, at the mouth of Amelia River, 50 miles north of Jacksonville. It is
reached by rail from Jacksonville ; by steamer, direct from New York (see page 2) ;
and by both lines of steamers from Charleston and Savannah. Fernandina was
founded by the Spaniards in 1632, and at the present time has a population of about
3,000, which is largely increased during the winter season. Its harbor is the finest
on the coast south of Chesapeake Bay, being landlocked and of such capacity that,
during the War of 1812, when the town was Spanish and neutral, more than 300
square-rigged vessels rode at anchor in it at one time. Vessels drawing 19 or 20
feet of water can cross the bar at high tide, and the largest ships can unload at
the wharves. It has an important trade in lumber; possesses a large cotton-ginning
establishment and a manufactory of cotton-seed oil; and it is in the neighborhood
of numerous sugar, cotton, and orange plantations. The climate of Fernandina is
very similar to that of St. Augustine ; mild and equable in winter, and in summer
tempered by the cool sea-breezes. It is entirely free from malaria, and is altogether
one of the healthiest places in Florida, though like St. Augustine, and for the same
reasons, its air is considered too strong for consumptives in advanced stages of the
disease. The town, which is the seat of the Episcopal bishopric of Florida, con
tains seven churches, a flourishing young ladies' seminary, under the charge of the
bishop, and a weekly newspaper. Fernandina possesses other attractions for visit
ors besides its delightful climate. There is, for instance, a fine shell-road, 2 miles
long, leading to the ocean-beach, which affords a remarkably hard and level drive
of nearly 20 miles. A favorite excursion is to Dungeness, the home of the Revolu
tionary hero, General Nathaniel Greene. This estate, of about 10,000 acres of choice
land, was the gift of the people of Georgia to the general, in recognition of his
services as commander of the Southern provincial army. The grounds are beauti-

14 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.
fully laid out, and are embellished with flower-gardens, and handsome groves and
avenues of olive-trees, and live-oaks draped with long festoons of the graceful
Spanish moss. On the beach, about half a mile from the Dungeness mansion, is the
grave of another Revolutionary hero, General Henry Lee, marked by a headstone
erected by his son, General Robert E. Lee. The hotels at Fernandina are the
Mansion House ($3.50 a day), the Riddell House ($2.50 a day), and the Noneood
House ($2 a day). Board may be had in private families at from $10 to $15 a
week. Beginning at Fernandina, the Florida (or Atlantic, Gulf & West India Transit)
Railway extends directly across the State to Cedar Keys, on the Gulf coast (154
miles) passing through some of the most picturesque scenery in Florida. There are
a number of small stations on the line, but the first town of any importance is
Baldwin (Baldwin House and Florida House, $4 a day), at the crossing of the Jack
sonville, Pensacola & Mobile R. R. Baldwin is 47 miles from Fernandina, 20 from
Jacksonville, and 107 from Cedar Keys ; and the telegraph-line to Cuba branches
off here. The next noteworthy town is Waldo (84 miles from Fernandina), at
the junction of the railroad constructing to Tampa Bay. The climate here is dry
and the air balsamic, and the region is regarded as particularly favorable to invalids
suffering from lung-diseases. There is no hotel in the village, but board may be had
in private families for from $15 to $25 a month. The woods in the vicinity of the
village abound in deer, ducks, quail, etc. ; and about 2 miles distant is Santa Fe
Lake, which is 9 miles long and 4 wide, and affords good facilities for boating and
fishing. The streams in the neighborhood are filled with trout and perch. The
Santa Fe River disappears underground a few miles from Waldo, and after running
underground for two miles rises and continues to its discharge into the Suwanee
River. Gainesville (96 miles) is the principal town on the line of the road. It
has 1,500 inhabitants, 4 churches, 3 hotels (Oak Hall, Exchange Hotel, and Beville
House : terms $2 to $3 a day, $25 to $30 a month), and 2 newspapers. Owing to
its favorable situation in the centre of the peninsula and in the midst of the pine-
forests, which clothe this portion of Florida, Gainesville is much frequented by
consumptives and other invalids. The surrounding scenery is very beautiful, and
the vicinity abounds in natural curiosities, which may be visited on horseback,
or by vehicles obtained at the livery-stables in town. The woods are alive with
game; and oranges, lemons, limes, grapes, and peaches, grow in abundance. The
Alachua Sink teems with fish of various kinds, and with alligators. A tri
weekly mail-line, carrying passengers, runs between Gainesville and Tampa on
the Gulf of Mexico. Cedar Keys (Gulf House and Exchange Hotel, $3 a day), the
Gulf terminus of the railway, is a village of about 500 inhabitants, pleasantly situ
ated on a large bay, which affords excellent facilities for bathing, boating, and fish
ing. The chief commerce of the place is in cedar and pine wood, turtles, fish, and
sponges, the sponging-grounds being about 60 miles distant. The climate of Cedar
Keys is blander than that of Jacksonville, and is beneficial to rheumatism as well as
consumption ; but there are as yet no adequate or proper accommodations for inva
lids. Only those who can " rough it " should go there, but sportsmen will find
unlimited occupation for both rod and gun. Eighteen miles west of Cedar
Keys, the Suwanee River, navigable to Ellaville, enters the Gulf ; and the Withla-
eoochee River, 18 miles sonth. The steamers of the New Orleans, Florida & Havana
Steamship Co. leave every Saturday morning for Havana, New Orleans, and Kev
West. Along the St. John's River.
The St. John's River has its sources in a vast elevated savanna midway down
the peninsula, flows almost directly north for 300 miles to Jacksonville, and then
turning eastward empties into the Atlantic. Its whole course, which lies through
an extremely level region, is about 400 miles, and throughout the last 150 miles it is
little more than a succession of lakes, expanding in width from 1-J mile to 6 miles
and having at no point a width of less than £ mile. It is said that, with its naviga
ble branches, the St. John's affords 1,000 miles of water transportation, and it is

ALONG THE ST. JOHN'S RIVER.

15

credited with carrying a larger volume of water than the Rio Grande. Its banks
are lined with a luxuriant tropical vegetation, handsome shade-trees and orange-
groves, and here and there are picturesque villages. " The banks are low and flat,"
says Edward King, "but bordered with a wealth of exquisite foliage to be seen no
where else upon this continent. One passes for hundreds of miles through a grand
forest of cypresses robed in moss and mistletoe ; of palms towering gracefully far
above the surrounding trees, of palmettos, whose rich trunks gleam in the sun ; of
swamp, white and black ash, of magnolia, of water-oak, of poplar and of plane-
trees ; and, where the hammocks rise a few feet above the water-level, the sweet
bay, the olive, the cotton-tree, the juniper, the red cedar, the sweet-gum, the live-
oak, shoot up their splendid stems ; while among the shrubbery and inferior growths

Mouth of the St. John's.
one may note the azalea, the sumach, the sensitive-plant, the agave, the poppy, the
mallow, and the nettle. The vines run not in these thickets, but over them. The
fox-grape clambers along the branches, and the woodbine and bignonia escalade the
haughtiest forest-monarchs. When the steamer nears the shore, one can see far
through the tangled thickets the gleaming water, out of which rise thousands of
' cypress-knees,' looking exactly like so many champagne-bottles set into the current
to cool. The heron and the crane saucily watch the shadow which the approach
ing boat throws near their retreat. The wary monster-turtle gazes for an instant,
with his black head cocked knowingly on one side, then disappears with a gentle
slide and a splash. An alligator grins familiarly as a dozen revolvers are pointed at
him over the boat's side, suddenly ' winks with his tail,' and vanishes ! as the bul
let meant for his tough hide skims harmlessly over the ripples left above him. . . .
For its whole length of 400 miles, the river affords glimpses of perfect beauty. One
ceases to regret hills and mountains, and can hardly imagine ever having thought
them necessary, so much do these visions surpass them. It is not grandeur which
one finds on the banks of the great stream, it is Nature run riot. The very irregu
larity is delightful, the decay is charming, the solitude is picturesque."
The steamers plying between Charleston and Savannah and Jacksonville continue
up the St. John's as far as Pilatka, but it is usual to begin the up-river tour at Jack
sonville. The regular mail-steamers (Brock's) leave Jacksonville daily, except Sun
day, at 9 a. m. for Pilatka and Enterprise, stopping at Tocoi. Fare to Tocoi, $1.00 ;
to Pilatka, $2.00. Meals, $1.00 extra. To Enterprise, including meals and stateroom,
$9.00. Pilatka to Enterprise, including meals and stateroom, $6.00. Time from
Jacksonville to Enterprise, 36 hours. The steamer Hampton also leaves Jackson
ville daily at 9 a. m. for Pilatka and intermediate landings, connecting at Tocoi with
train for St. Augustine, and at Pilatka for steamers to Enterprise and up the Ockla-
waha River. The following list of localities on the St. John's may prove useful to
the tourist. The distances are from Jacksonville :

16

HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.

Miles.
Riverside  3
Black Point  10
Mulberry Grove  11
Mandarin  15
Fruit Cove  18
Hibernia  22
Remington Park  25
Magnolia  28
Green Cove Springs  31
Hogarth's Landing  36
Picolata  ^5
Tocoi  52
Federal Point  60
Orange Mills  64
Dancy's Wharf  65
Whiteetone  66
Russell's Landing  69
Pilatka  "  75
Rawlestown  77
San Mateo  80
Buffalo Bluff  88
Ocklawaha River  100

Wclaka  100
Beecher  101
Orange Point.  V. 103
Mount Royal   109
Fort Gates  110
Georgetown  117
Lake View  132
Volusia  137
Orange Bluff  140
Hawkinsville  160
Cabbage Bluff  162
Lake Beresfbrd  165
Blue Spring  172
Emanuel  184
Shell Bank  193
Saudford  199
Mellonville  200
Enterprise  205
Cook's Ferry and King Philip's Town... 224
Lake Harney  225
Sallie's Camp  229
Salt Lake  270

The first landing after leaving Jacksonville is Mulberry Grove, a beautiful grove
on the west bank, highly attractive to excursionists. Four miles above, on the
east bank, is Mandarin, one of the oldest settlements on the St. John's. It is a vil
lage of about 250 inhabitants, and is the winter home of Mrs. Harriet Beecher Stowe,
whose cottage is situated near the river, a few rods to the left of the shore-end of the
pier. She owns about 40 acres of land, three or four of which are planted with
orange-trees. Boarding by T. R. Webb; terms, $2 a day, $12 a week. Seven
miles above Mandarin, on an island near the opposite bank, is Hibernia (22 miles
from Jacksonville). This is a popular resort for invalids, and Mrs. Fleming keeps
a large and excellent boarding-house (terms, $3 a day, $15 a week). Magnolia (28
miles) is situated on the west bank, and is considered one of the most desirable re
sorts in Florida for consumptives. It has a sandy soil, covered with beautiful groves
of pine and orange trees, and there are no dangerous hammock -lands near by. The
Magnolia Hotel ($4 a day) is one of the best on the river, and has several cottages at
tached. In the vicinity is Magnolia Point, one of the highest points of land extend
ing into the river between Jacksonville and Pilatka. A little to the north of the
point Black Creek, a navigable stream, up which small steamers make weekly trips
as far as Middleburg, empties into the St. John's. The banks swarm with alligators,
which are apt to he mistaken at times for logs which are floated down this stream
in large quantities to market. Three miles above Magnolia are the Green Cove
Springs, one of the most frequented resorts on the river. The place takes its name
from a sulphur-spring, situated about a hundred yards from the landing amid a
grove of great water-oaks, covered with hanging festoons of gray moss and mistle
toe. The spring discharges about 3,000 gallons a minute and fills a pool some 30
feet in diameter with greenish-hued crystal clear water. The water has a tempera
ture of 70° Fahr. ; contains sulphates of magnesia and lime, chlorides of sodium
and iron, and sulphuretted hydrogen ; is used both for bathing and drinking ; and
is considered beneficial for rheumatism, gouty affections, and Bright's disease of the
kidneys. Attached to the springs are comfortable bathing-rooms, and close by are
two hotels (the Clarendon and the Union ; terms, $4 a day). There are also good
private boarding-houses. Hogarth's Landing (36 miles from Jacksonville) is a wood-
station on the east bank, containing a post-office, but otherwise unimportant. About
ten miles above, on the same side, is Picolata, the site of an old Spanish settlement,
of which no traces now remain. Two hundred years ago it was the main depot for
the supply of the Spanish plantations of the up-country, and it then contained a
splendid church and several religious houses of their order built by the Franciscan
monks. On the opposite side of the river are the ruins of a great earthwork fort
of the time of the Spanish occupation. There is no hotel at Picolata, but board may
be obtained in private houses. Tocoi (52 miles) is of some importance as the point
where connection is made with the St. John's Railroad to St. Augustine, 15 miles
distant. (See "St. Augustine.") Passing Federal Point, a wood-station (60 miles)

ALONG THE ST. JOHN'S RIVER.

17

Orange Mills (64 miles), and Dancy's Wharf (65 miles)— the two latter noted for
their fine orange-groves— we reach Pilatka (or Palatka), the largest town on the river
after leaving Jacksonville. It has a population of about 1,500, and is admirably lo-

Green Cove Springs.
cated on high ground on the west hank of the river, where the surface-land is for
the most part sandy. The wonderful blandness of its climate renders Pilatka pe
culiarly favorable to consumptives, and it offers advantages in the way of churches,
schools, postal and telegraphic facilities, etc., not possessed by many of the interior
resorts. It has four good hotels, the Putnam. House ($4 a day), the Larkin House
($4 a day, new), the St. John's Hotel ($3.50 a day), and the Pilatka House ($3 a day) ;
and there are several private boarding-houses where board may be had at from $10
to $15 a week. Pilatka is steamboat headquarters for the Upper St. John's and its
tributaries; and the steamers en route for Enterprise lie here overnight to discharge

18 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.
and receive freight, affording passengers an opportunity to spend a few hours ashore.
Steamers run from Pilatka to Dunn's Lake, and also up the Ocklawaha River to
Silver Spring, Ocala, and the head of navigation. (See " Up the Ocklawaha.")
Above Pilatka the vegetation becomes more characteristically tropical, and the
river narrows down to a moderate-sized stream, widening out at last only to be
merged in grand Lake George, Dexter's Lake, and Lake Monroe, at Enterprise.
The steamers make the run from Pilatka to Enterprise in about 12 hours. Five
miles above Pilatka, on the opposite bank, is San Mateo, a pleasant hamlet situated
on a high ridge overlooking the river. The Riversdale House ($3 a day) is a com
fortable hotel, and there are other places in the town where accommodations may
be had. Welaka (25 miles above Pilatka), above the entrance to Dunn's Lake, and op
posite the mouth of the Ocklawaha River, is the site of what was originally an Indian
village, and afterward a flourishing Spanish settlement. On the Ocklawaha is the
famous Silver Spring, the largest and most beautiful of the springs of Florida, navi
gable by steamers of several tons' burden. This spring is said to be the '' fountain
of youth " of which Ponce de Leon dreamed, and for which he vainly searched.
The clearness of its waters is wonderful ; they seem more transparent than air.
" You see on the bottom, 80 feet below, the shadow of your boat, and the exact
form of the smallest pebble ; the prismatic colors of the rainbow are beautifully
reflected ; and you can see the fissures in the rocky bottom through which the water
pours upward like an inverted cataract." Just above Welaka the river widens into
Little Lake George, 4 miles wide and 7 miles long, and then into Lake George, 12
miles wide and 18 miles long. This is one of the most beautiful sheets of water in
the world, being considered by many tourists equal in attractions to its namesake
in the State of New York. Among the many lovely islands which dot its surface
is one called Drayton. It is 1,700 acres in extent, and contains one of the largest
orange-groves on the river. -Ill along the lake the eye is delighted and the ear
charmed by the brilliant plumage and sweet song of the southern birds. One finds
here the heron, the crane, the white curlew, the pelican, the loon, and the paro
quet ; and there are many varieties of fish. Volusia (5 miles above Lake George,
137 from Jacksonville) is a wood-station, with a settlement of considerable size back
from the river. An ancient Spanish town used to stand here, this formerly being the
principal point on the line of travel between St. Augustine and the Mosquito Inlet
country. A fort was erected here during the Seminole War, and from this fort
General Eustis, in command of the left wing of the army, set out to cross the coun
try to the Withlacoochee to join General Scott. After a fruitless campaign of three
months, the latter and his army crossed the river here on their way to St. Augus
tine. Orange Grove and Hawkinsville are simply wood-landings, but 35 miles above
Volusia is Blue Spring, one of the largest mineral springs in the State. It is several
hundred yards from the St. John's, but the stream flowing from the spring is large
enough at its confluence with the river for the steamers to float in it. One can look
over the side of the steamer into the crystal-clear water below, and observe every
movement of the families of the finny tribe as they flit about in the stream. Pur
suing its voyage to the south, and passing several unimportant landings, the steamer
speedily enters Lake Monroe, a sheet of water 12 miles long by 5 miles wide, teem
ing with fish and wild-fowl. On the south side of the lake is Mellonrille, formerly
the site of Fort Mellon, erected during the Indian wars, and now an attractive
resort for invalids and sportsmen, and a centre of extensive orange-plantations.
There are three hotels— the Mellonville Hotel ($3 a day), the Orange Hotel ($3 a
day), and the Mellonville House ($2 a day) — and board may be had in private fami
lies. About a mile west of Mellonville is Sanford, a new resort, whose excellent
hotel (the " Sanford House") is attracting many visitors; and in the vicinity are
Eureka, Eauclair, Wekiva, Lake Jennie, Lake Maitland, Lake Conway, Fort Reid,
and other settlements, at most of which good boarding-houses or hotels may be
found. On the opposite side of the lake from Mellonville is Enterprise, the head
of regular steamboat navigation, and one of the most popular resorts in Southern
Florida for invalids, especially for those suffering from rheumatism. The climate
is rather warmer than that of Jacksonville and Magnolia, but it is said to have

UP THE OCKLAWAHA. jo,
special invigorating qualities which speedily convert invalids into successful fisher
men and hunters. The Brock House ($3 a day) is famous among travelers, and
good board may be had in private houses for from $10 to $15 a week. Near the
Brock House is the Green Spring, a sulphur-spring, with water of a pale-green hue
but quite transparent. It is nearly 80 feet in diameter, and about 100 feet deep.
Although Enterprise is the terminus of regular navigation on the St. John's,
there is for the sportsman still another hundred miles of narrow river, deep lagoons
gloomy bayous, and wild, untrodden land, where all sorts of game, such as bears^
wild-turkeys, deer, and ducks are plentiful, while the waters teem with innumerable
varieties of fish. Small steamers run during the winter through Lake Harnev to
Salt Lake, the nearest point to the Indian River from the St. John's ; and a small
steamboat makes frequent excursions to Lake Harney and Lake Jessup, for the
benefit of those who wish to try their hand at the exciting sport of alligator-shoot
ing, or of those who wish simply to enjoy the charming scenery. The trip to Lake
Harney and hack is made in one day. Lake Jessup is near Lake Harney : it is 17
miles long and 5 miles wide, but is so shallow that it cannot be entered by a boat
drawing more than three feet of water. The St. John's rises in the elevated
savanna before mentioned, fully 120 miles south of Enterprise, hut tourists seldom
ascend farther than Lake Harney. About 20 miles southeast of Enterprise is the
ancient town of New Smyrna, located on Mosquito River, south of the inlet of the
same name near the coast. New Smyrna was settled in 1767 by Dr. Turnbull and
his colony of 1,500 Minorcans, and was named by his wife, who was a native of
Smyrna. The colonists cultivated indigo with much success, but, not being dealt
with according to contract, they abandoned the settlement in 1776, and established
themselves in and near St. Augustine, where their descendants now reside. A large
canal, draining the Turnbull Swamp into the Hillsboro' River, at New Smyrna, is
the only permanent monument the founder of this colony has left to posterity.
The region around New Smyrna is prolific in many varieties of game, and is much
resorted to by sportsmen, who find satisfactory accommodations at the Ocean House
($3 a day, $14 a week). Up the Ocklawaha.
The Ocklawaha empties into the St. John's about 25 miles south of Pilatka, op
posite the small town of W'elaka (see p. 18), after flowing for nearly 300 miles
through Putnam and Marion Counties. The channel possesses no hanks, being sim
ply a navigable passage through a succession of small lakes and cypress-swamps;
but small steamers ascend it for a distance of nearly 200 miles. An excursion up
the Ocklawaha to Silver Spring (140 miles) is perhaps the most unique experience
of the tourist in Florida; and, the better to show what attractions it offers, we
shall (in lieu of a mere itinerary) reproduce a graphic description of such a trip from
the pages of "Picturesque America." The regular line of steamers (Hart's) leaves
Pilatka daily at 10 a.m., for Silver Spring. Boats also leave Jacksonville for Silver
Spring every Thursday at 9 a. m.
The trip which we shall now describe began at Pilatka en a certain sunny day
of winter, and was made in the Flying Swan, a craft which, from its simplicity
of construction and rude machinery, might have been the first model constructed
by Fulton, when he was putting into practical shape the use of steam in propelling
boats. Its general outline was that of an ill-shaped omnibus, with the propelling-
wheel let into its rear, and, on further examination, we found the smoke-pipe, the
engine, pilot-house, and all other of the usual gear of steamers, were housed, for
the purpose of protecting them from being torn away by the overhanging limbs or
protruding stumps everywhere to be met with in the narrow and difficult naviga
tion of the swamps. A sail of 25 miles along the St. John's brought us, a little be
fore sunrise, to the mouth of the Ocklawaha, looking scarcely wide enough to admit
a skiff, much less a steamboat. As daylight increased, we found that we were
passing through a dense cypress-swamp, and that the channel had no banks, but
was merely indicated by "blazed" marks on the trunks of the towering trees.
There was plenty of water, however, to float our craft, but it was a queer kind of

20

HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.

navigation, for the hull of the steamer went bumping against one cypress-butt, then
another, suggesting to the tyro in this kind of aquatic adventure that possibly he
might be wrecked, and subjected, even if he escaped a watery grave, to a miserable
death through the agency of mosquitoes, buzzards, and huge alligators. As we
wound along through the dense vegetation, a picture of novel interest presented
itself at every turn. We came occasionally to a spot a little elevated above the
dead-water level, covered with a rank growth of lofty palmettos, which shoot up
tall and slender, bearing aloft innumerable parasites, and often surprising the eye
with patches, half a mile in length, of the convolvulus, in a solid mass of beautiful
blossoms. Another sharp turn, and the wreck of an old dead cypress is discovered,
its huge limbs covered with innumerable turkey-buzzards, which are waiting
patiently for the decomposition of an alligator that some successful sportsman has
shot, and left for
the prey of these
useful but disgust
ing birds. The sun
shine sparkles in the
spray which our
awkward yet effi
cient craft drives
from its prow, and
then we enter what
s.-ems to be a cav
ern where the sun
never penetrates.
The tree-tops inter
lace, and the tangled
vines and innumer
able parasites have
made an impenetra
ble mass overhead.
The swamps
along the Ockla
waha are as rich
in birds as in vege
tation. A detailed
list of the varieties
to be seen in a sin
gle day would fill a
page. One of the
most striking is the
water -turkey, or
snake-bird, which
is everywhere to be
met with, sitting
upon some project
ing limb overlook
ing the water, the
body as carefully as
possible concealed
from view, and its head and long neck projecting out and moving constantly like
a black snake in search of its prey. Your curiosity is excited; von would ex
amine the creature more critically, and you fire at what seems a sho'rt point-blank
shot. The bird falls, apparently helpless, into the water ; you row rapidly to
secure your prize, when, a hundred yards ahead, you suddenly see the snaky
head of the "darter" just protruding above the surface of the water. In an in
stant its lungs are filled with air, and, disappearing again, it reaches a place of
safety. Another conspicuous bird is the large white crane. It is a very effective

UP THE OCKLAWAHA.

21

object in the deep shadows of the cypress, as it stalks about, eying with fantastic
look the finny tribes it hunts for prey. Especially is it of service in destroying the
young of the innumerable water-snakes which everywhere abound. With commend
able taste it seems to pay especial attention to the disgusting, slimy, juvenile moc
casins, which love to sun themselves on the harsh dried leaves of the stunted palmet
to. But to the stranger the most prominent living objects in these out-of-the-way
places are the alligators, whose paradise is in the swamps of Florida. It is a comi
cal and provoking sight to see these creatures, when indisposed to get out of the
way, turn up their piggish eyes in speculative mood at the sudden irruption of a
rifle-ball against their mailed sides, but all the while seemingly unconscious that any
harm against their persons was intended. Like Achilles, however, they have a vul
nerable spot, which is just in front of the point where the huge head works upon the
spinal column. There is of necessity at this place a joint in the armor, and an ex
perienced hunter seldom lets one of the reptiles escape.
Our little craft bumps along from oue cypress-stump to another and fetches up
against a " cypress-knee," as it is termed — sharp-pointed lances which grow up from
the roots of the trees, seemingly to protect the trunks from too much outside concus
sion ; glancing off, it runs into a roosting-place of innumerable cranes, or scatters
the wild-ducks and huge snakes over the surface of the water. A clear patch of the
sky is seen, and the bright light of a summer evening is tossing the feathery crowns
of the old cypress-tree into a nimbus of glory, while innumerable paroquets, alarmed
at our intrusion, scream out their fierce indignation, and then, flying away, flash upon
our admiring eyes their green and golden plumage. It now begins to grow dark in
earnest, and we become curious to know how our pilot will manage to navigate this
mysterious channel in what is literally Egyptian darkness. While thus speculating,
there flashes across the landscape a bright, clear light. From the most intense black
ness we have a fierce, lurid glare, presenting the most extravagantly picturesque
groups of overhanging palmettos, draped with parasites and vines of all descrip
tions. No imagination can conceive the grotesque and weird forms which constant
ly force themselves on your notice as the light partially illuminates the limbs of
wrecked or half-de
stroyed trees, which,
covered with moss
or wrapped in de
cayed vegetation as a
winding-sheet, seem
huge unburied mon
sters, which, though
dead, still thro*
about their arms in
agony, and gaze
through unmeaning
eyes upon the intru
sions of living men.
Another run of half
a mile brings us into
the cypress again,
the firelight giving
new ideas of the pict
uresque. The tall
shafts, more than
ever shrouded in the
hanging moss, looked
as if they had been
draped in sad ha
biliments, while the
wind sighed through the limbs ; and, when the sonorous sounds of the alligators
were heard, groaning and complaining, the sad, dismal picture of desolation was

The Lookout.

22

HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.

complete. So absorbing were these wonderful effects of a brilliant light upon
the vegetable productions of these Florida swamps, that we had forgotten to
look for the cause of the artificial glare, but, when we did, we found that a faithful
negro had suspended from cranes two iron cages, one on each side of the boat, into
which he constantly piled unctuous pine-knots that blazed and crackled and turned
what would otherwise have been unmeaning darkness into the most novel and ex
citing views of Nature that ever met our experienced eyes.
One of our strangest experiences in these mysterious regions was forced upon
us one morning when, thrusting our head through the hole that gave air to our sleep
ing-shelf, we saw a sight which caused us to rub our eyes and gather up our senses
in order to be certain that we were awake. The steamer lay in a basin, possibly a
quarter of a mile in diameter, entirely surrounded by gigantic forest-trees which
repeated themselves with the most minute fidelity in the perfectly translucent water.
For 60 feet downward we could look, and at this great depth see duplicated the scene
of the upper world, the clearness of the water assisting rather than interfering with
the vision. The bottom of this basin was silver sand, studded with eccentric for
mations of lime-crystals of a pale-emerald tint. This we soon learned was the won
derful Silver Spring, of which we had heard so much, which every moment throws
out thousands of gallons of water without making a bubble on the surface. The

Silver Spring.
transparency of the water was marvelous. A little pearly-white shell, dropped
from our hand, worked its zigzag way downward, deepening in its descent from a
pale green to a rich emerald, until, finding the bottom, it seemed a gem destined
forever to glisten in its silver setting. Procuring a " dug-out," we proceeded to
inform ourselves of the mysteries of the spot. Noticing the faintest possible move-

INDIAN RIVER. 23
ment on the surface of the basin at a certain point, we concluded that it must be
over the place where the great body of the water entered the spring. So, paddling
to the spot we dropped a stone, wrapped in apiece of white paper, into the water
at the place where the movement was visible. The stone went down for some 25
feet until it reached a slight projection of limestone-rock, when it was suddenly, as
if but a feather in weight, forced upward in a curving line some 15 feet, showing the
tremendous power of the water that rushes out from the rock. The most novel and
startling feature was when our craft came from the shade into the sunshine, for then
it seemed as if we were, by some miraculous power, suspended 70 feet or more in
the mid-air, while down on the sanded bottom was a sharp, clear silhouette of man,
boat, and paddle. A deep river 100 feet wide is created by the water of this spring,
which in the course of 7 miles forms a junction with the Ocklawaha.
Silver Spring was once considered the head of navigation in this direction, but
small semi-weekly steamers now run far beyond it on the Ocklawaha, through lakes
Griffin, Eustis, Harris, and Dora, to Okahumkee, a little settlement in the wilderness
where sportsmen delight to spend much of their time while in the peninsula. In
the vicinity of Lake Harris frost is seldom known ; and sugar-cane matures so as to
tassel, which the early frost never permits it to do in Louisiana and Texas.
Indian River.
Indian River is a long lagoon or arm of the sea, beginning near the lower end
of Mosquito Inlet (with which it is connected by a short caDal), and extending
southward along the east side of the peninsula for a distance of nearly 150 miles.
It is separated from the Atlantic by a narrow strip of sand, through which it com
municates with the open water by the Indian River Inlet (latitude 27° 30' N.) and
by Jupiter Inlet ; and for more than 30 miles of its northern course the St. John's
River flows parallel with it, at an average distance of not more than 10 miles. The
easiest mode of reaching the Indian River has hitherto been by stage from Enter
prise ; or by small steamer to Salt Lake (see p. 19) and thence by a " portage " of 8
miles to Sand Point or Titusville. From St. Augustine excursions are often made
in yachts to the Indian River ; hut the entrance from the coast is decidedly less easy
than from the St. John's, the deepest of the outlets having rarely more than 7 feet
of water at high tide. It is announced that during the coming season a new and
much easier route will be opened from St. Augustine by steamer down the Matanzas
to its mouth; thence by stage or railroad along the shore to Halifax River; and
thence by steamer along the Halifax and Indian Rivers. And still another route is
opened by stage from Crescent City on Dunn's Lake three times a week to New
Britain on the Halifax River.
The water of the lagoon is salt, though it receives a considerable body of fresh
water through Santa Lucia River, an outlet of the Everglades ; there are no marshes
in the vicinity; the adjacent lands are for the most part remarkably fertile, pro
ducing abundantly oranges, lemons, limes, bananas, pineapples, guavas, grapes,
sugar-cane, strawberries, blackberries, and all varieties of garden vegetables; and
the river itself teems to an almost incredible degree with fish of every kind, in
cluding the pompano, the mullet, the sheepshead, turtles, and oysters of the most
delicious flavor. Along the shore of the lagoon toward the Atlantic is a belt of
thick, evergreen woods, which, breaking the force of the chilling east winds that
sometimes visit these latitudes in winter, renders the climate of the Indian River
country peculiarly favorable to consumptives and rheumatic patients. At Fort
Capron, near the Indian River Inlet, a series of meteorological observations, taken
during a series of years, shows a singularly equable temperature, with comparative
dryness; the winter months having a mean temperature of 63° 20' Fahr., and there
being 217 fair-weather days for the year. " The westward side of the lagoon,"
says Mr. King, who visited the region in 1873, "presents a sad panorama of ruined
sugar-plantations and houses, of superb machinery lying idle, and of acres of wild-
orange trees, which only need transplanting and budding to produce fruit equal to
the best which we receive from Havana. The sportsman who pitches his tent for
a few days on the splendid camping-ground of this same shore will see the pelican,

24 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.
the cormorant, the sea-gull, and gigantic turtles, many of them weighing 500 pounds;
may see the bears exploring the nests for turtles' -eggs ; may ' fire-hunt ' the deer in
the forest ; chase the alligator to his lair; shoot at the ' raft-duck ; ' and fish from
the salt-ponds all the finny monsters that be. Hardly a thousand miles from New
York one may find the most delicate and delightful tropical scenery, and may dwell
in a climate which neither Hawaii nor Southern Italy can excel. _ Settlements
throughout this section are few and far between. The mail is carried down the
great silent coast by a foot-messenger; for there is a stretch of nearly 100 miles
along which there is not a drop of fresh water for a horse to drink."
At its northern end, as already mentioned, the Indian River connects by a canal
with the Mosquito Lagoon, which is also known as the Hillsboro' River; and at the
northern end of Mosquito Lagoon the Halifax River comes in, which begins about
40 miles south of St. Augustine. Along the Halifax and Hillsboro' Rivers are sev
eral recently-established settlements — Port Orange, Baytona, and Halifax City.
Travelers and invalids can secure accommodations at any of these places ; also at
New Smyrna (see p. 19) at the Bostrom House, 30 miles above New Smyrna, and at
New Britain. Lake City and Vicinity.
Lake City is a pleasant village on the line of railway between Savannah and Jack
sonville, about 60 miles west of the latter. It contains about 2,500 inhabitants, is the
seat of justice of Columbia County, is a U. S. Signal-Service station, and the terminal
station of the Cuban telegraph-line. It has three hotels, seven churches (belonging
to the Roman Catholic, Episcopalian, Methodist, Presbyterian, and Baptist denomi
nations), and cotton, saw, and grist mills. Within the city limits are Lakes Isabella,
De Soto, and Hamburg, and Indian or Alligator Lake is only half a mile away.
The climate of Lake City is very similar to that of Jacksonville, but the air is thought
to be somewhat drier, while the rich balsamic odors from the surrounding forests
endow it with exceptional curative and healing power, and- render the neighborhood
remarkably beneficial to consumptives in the more advanced stages of the disease.
About 10 miles west of Lake City (on the railroad) is the village of Wellborn, which
is pleasantly situated and a favorite resort for invalids. In the neighborhood are
Lake Wellborn and other lakes well stocked with fish. Board may be had at the
houses of Rigsbee, Williams, and others (terms $20 to $30 per month ; $7 to $10
per week). Eight miles away (14 miles from Lake City) are the Smoanee White
Sulphur Springs, situated upon the beautiful hanks of the Suwanee River. The
spring is about 15 feet deep and the same in diameter, and its clear waters pouring
into the river contrast strongly with the dark current flowing from the Okefinokee
Swamp. The spring-waters are said to be a valuable cure in cases of rheumatism
and dyspepsia, as are also those of the Upper White Sulphur, some miles farther up
the river. Twelve miles east of Lake City, also on the railroad, is Olnstee, noted as
the site of a desperate battle between the Federal and Confederate forces, fought in
February, 1864. A bloody engagement, which lasted all day, resulted in the defeat
of the Federals, who retired from the field after losing 1,200 men. Some distance
south of Lake City is the important town of Gainesville, which is described on
page 14 ; and stretching southward through the whole region is a series of ham
mock-lands, including the great Gulf Hammock, below Gainesville, and the Annut-
telaga Hammock, in Hernando County, which is 14 miles long and 7 wide.
The Tallahassee Country.
" Middle Florida," in the midst of which Tallahassee lies, differs from the rest of
the State in that its surface is more broken and undulating, reaching here and there
an elevation of from 300 to 400 feet. The hills are singularly graceful in outline,
and the soil is exceedingly fertile, producing all the characteristic products of the
Southern States, including tobacco and early garden vegetables. The vegetation is
less tropical in character than that of Eastern and Southern Florida, but it is very
profuse and comprises many beautiful evergreens. Tallahassee, the capital of the
State and county-seat of Leon County, is situated on the Jacksonville, Pensacola &

WESTERN FLORIDA. 25
Mobile R. R., 155 miles west of Jacksonville and 21 miles north of the Gulf of
Mexico, in lat. 30° 25' N. It is beautifully located on high ground, and is regularly
laid out in a plot a mile square, with broad streets and several public squares,
shaded with evergreens and oaks. The abundance and variety of the shrubs and
flowers give it the appearance of a garden. The business portion of the city is
of brick. The public buildings are the Capitol (commenced in 1826), a large three-
story brick edifice, with pillared entrances opening east and west; the Court-House,
a substantial two-story brick structure ; and the West Florida Seminary, a large
two-story brick building, on a hill commanding a view of the entire city. The
seminary has separate male and female departments, and is supported by the pro
ceeds of the " seminary lands " granted to the State by Congress. There are, be
sides, several free public schools, two weekly newspapers, telegraph and express
offices, and Baptist, Episcopal, Methodist, Presbyterian, and Roman Catholic churches.
The car and machine shops of the railroad company are located here ; also the
only cotton-factory in the State. The society of Tallahassee is distinguished for
its intelligence and refinement, and the old-time hospitality has survived the rav
ages of the war. The climate is delightful, the heat of summer and the cold of
winter being tempered by the breezes from the Gulf; but consumptives should
bear in mind that, as the site is higher than that of Jacksonville, the air is more
likely to prove trying to weak lungs, unless proper precautions are taken as to
clothing, etc. The City Hotel ($3.50 a day) affords comfortable accommodations,
and private board may be had at from $8 to $12.50 a week. In the immediate
neighborhood of Tallahassee are Lake Bradford, Lake Jackson (17 miles lcng),
and Lake Lafayette (6 miles long) — the second named after General Jackson and
the last after the French marquis. During the winter months these lakes swarm
with ducks and brant ; and to the angler Lake Jackson presents many at
tractions, as it is well stocked with bass and bream. Quail are also extremely
abundant. About 15 miles from Tallahassee is the famous Wakulla Spring, which
is reckoned among the chief wonders of Florida. It is an immense lime-stone
basin, 106 feet deep, and with waters so crystalline clear that the bottom with fish
near it can be seen as plainly as though they were in the air, and so copious that a
river is formed at the very start.
Along the line of railway on which Tallahassee is situated (the Jacksonville,
Pensacola & Mobile) there are several towns which offer great attractions to in
valids, tourists, and sportsmen. Qnincy (24 miles west of Tallahassee) is a prosper
ous village of about 1,000 inhabitants, the county-seat of Gadsden County. Its
climatic characteristics are the same as those of Tallahassee, and there is a similar
abundance of game in the vicinity. Board may be had at the Willard House and
at private boarding-houses. Monticello (33 miles east of Tallahassee) is an important
town of about 2,000 inhabitants, and the terminus of a branch road 4J- miles in
length. It contains Baptist, Episcopalian, Methodist, and Presbyterian churches, sev
eral schools, and a weekly newspaper. The Monticello Hotel is a fairly-kept inn,
and board may be had in private families. In the vicinity of Monticello is Lake
Miccosukie, whose banks are noted as the camping-ground of De Soto, and as the
field of a bloody battle between General Jackson and the Micccsukie Indians. At its
southern end the lake contracts to a creek and disappears underground. Near Monti
cello is the Lipona plantation, where Murat resided for some time while in Florida.
Madison (22 miles east of Monticello), the capital of the county of the same name, is
an attractive town of about 800 inhabitants, containing Baptist, Methodist, and Pres
byterian churches, and several good boarding-houses. Near by is the Suwanee River,
and in the county are the beautiful Lakes Rachel, Mary, Francis, and Cherry, all of
which abound in fish. Western Florida.
That portion of the State lying west of the Appalachicola River is usually spoken
of as "West Florida," and by nature belongs rather to Alabama than to Florida.
Its population is very scanty, and, being less accessible than any other part of the
State, it is seldom visited by either tourists or invalids. Its coast-line is indented
3

26 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.
with many beautiful bays, and the country is watered by numerous creeks and rivers
down which is floated the lumber which constitutes the chief staple of its industry.
The principal city of this part of Florida is Pensacola, situated on the northwest side
of the bay of the same name, about 10 miles from the Gulf of Mexico. The coun
try immediately around Pensacola is sandy, little cultivated, and covered with pines.
The town itself, although a place of considerable political and commercial impor
tance during the Spanish and English occupation, had, until a year or two prior to the
civil war, presented a decayed appearance. At that time a large accession both to
its trade and population took place, in consequence of the approach to completion of
the railroad connecting it with Montgomery. Since the war it has had considerable
commerce, and its population now numbers nearly 5,000. The principal public build
ings are a Custom-House, and Roman Catholic, Episcopalian, Presbyterian, Method
ist, and Baptist churches. There are several schools and academies, and two weekly
newspapers. The remains of the old forts, San Miguel and St. Bernard, relics of the
Spanish occupation, may he seen in the rear of the city. The climate of Pensacola
is exceedingly healthful, the winter temperature being remarkably equable and bland.
Pensacola Bay forms a thoroughly land-locked harbor covering an area of over 200
square miles, being about 30 miles long and from 4 to 8 miles wide, having unsur
passed anchorage and a depth of from 30 to 35 feet. The entrance to the harbor is
about a mile wide, and there is a depth of about 22 feet of water on the bar, so that
a laden ship of the largest tonnage can approach the city at any time of the year.
The entrance is defended by Fort Pickens on the east, situated on the extreme point
of the long, low island of Santa Rosa, and Fort McRee on the west, situated on the
mainland. About l-£ mile to the north, and immediately in front of the entrance,
stands Fort Barrancas. Near this fort are extensive barracks, a Lighthouse, and the
Naval Hospital. About a mile above the hospital (7 miles from Pensacola) is the
Navy-Yard, situated on Tartar Point. The villages of Warrington and Woolsey lie
immediately adjacent to the walls of the navy-yard. Pensacola may be reached
from Jacksonville and Eastern Florida by the railroad to St. Mark's on the Gulf,
and thence by regular packet-steamer. The Pensacola & Louisville R. R. (44 miles
long) connects at Pollard with the Mobile & Montgomery R. R., and brings Pensa
cola into connection with the general railway system of the country. The Perdido
Railway is a short line of 9 miles, connecting Pensacola with Millview, on Perdido
Bay, where there are extensive lumber establishments.
ippalachicola is attractively situated at the entrance of the river of the same
name into the Gulf of Mexico, through the Appalachicola Bay. It was formerly a
place of considerable trade, being the shipping-port for the rich cotton-growing
region lying on the Chattahoochee and Flint Rivers; but in consequence of the
building of the numerous railways in Lower Georgia and Alabama, tapping the river,
the trade of this old city has been transferred to Mobile and Savannah. The popu
lation of Appalachicola is now less than 1,000, and the place bids fair to experience
a still further decay. A weekly line of steamers up the Appalachicola and Chatta
hoochee Rivers connects Appalachicola with Columbus, Georgia ; and occasional
steamers and sailing-vessels come in from the Gulf.
The Gulf Coast.
It has already been remarked, in the general description of the State, that much
the larger part of the coast-line of Florida is washed by the Gulf of Mexico ; but this
immense stretch of sea-front is almost inaccessible on account of shallow soundings,
and has few good harbors. The principal towns on the coast — Pensacola, Appalachi
cola, and Cedar Keys— have already been described. The best starting-point for a
visit to the ports lower down is Cedar Keys (see p. 14). A small steamer makes weekly
trips between Cedar Keys, Tampa, Manatee, Punta Rassa, and Key West. In order to
reach the minor intervening points, it has hitherto been necessary to charter a steam
er or sailing-vessel for the purpose ; but it is announced that during the coming sea
son (1877-'78), a weekly steamer will leave Cedar Keys, touching at each of the fol
lowing points : Crystal River, Hamosassa, Bayport, Anclote River, Clear- Water Har
bor, Law's Store, McMullen's Store, Philippi's Grove, Point Penales, Tampa, Alafia,

KEY WEST. 27
Terrasea Bay, Little Manatee, Manatee, and Sarasota. Most of these are mere
farming or lumbering settlements, offering great attractions to sportsmen, but scarcely
interesting to the tourist or invalid, so we shall attempt to describe only two 'or
three of the more important points, contenting ourselves with observing that the
entire coast abounds in game of every kind, and that the winter climate is marvel-
ously genial and equable. Tampa, the first noteworthy point below Cedar Keys, is
situated near the centre of the western coast, at the head of the beautiful Tampa
Bay (formerly Espiritu Santo Bay). The bay is about 40 miles long, is dotted with
islands, and forms a splendid harbor for the largest vessels. Its waters swarm with
fish and turtle, the former being so numerous in some places as to impede the pas
sage of boats ; and there is an abundance of sea-fowl, including the beautiful
flamingo-bird. Deer swarm on the islands. The surrounding country is sandy, and
for miles along the shore there is a luxuriant tropical vegetation. Large groves of
orange, lemon, and pine trees, are everywhere to be seen. The village contains
about 500 inhabitants, but, though it is probably destined to become one of the chief
health-resorts of Florida, there are at present scanty accommodations for tourists or
invalids. Of the boarding-houses that of D. Isaac Craft is perhaps the best. Tampa
has regular mail communication (by stage) with Gainesville (see p. 14). The pro
jected railway to Waldo, on the Cedar Keys & Fernandina R. R., when com
pleted, will make Tampa one of the principal ports on the Gulf. Manatee is a small
village situated on the Manatee River about 8 miles from its mouth. There are two
or three boarding-houses here where fair accommodations may be had at $2 a day
or $40 a month. Charlotte Harbor, or Boca Grande, south of Sarasota, is about 25
miles long and from 8 to ten miles wide, and is sheltered from the sea by several
islands. The fisheries in and around the harbor are very valuable, the oysters gath
ered here being remarkably fine and abundant. The entrance to the harbor be
tween Boca Grande Key and Gasparilla is 6 fathoms deep and f of a mile wide.
Pnnta Rassa is a small hamlet near the mouth of the Caloosahatchie River, chiefly
noteworthy as the point where the Cuban telegraph-line lands and as a U. S. Signal-
Service station. The thermometrical observations recorded here are interesting as
indicating the climate of all this portion of the coast. In 1874 the range was as
follows: January, highest 79°, lowest 42°; February, highest 84°, lowest 50°;
March, highest 85°, lowest 55° ; April, highest 87°, lowest 55° ; May, highest 90°,
lowest 59°; June, highest 91°, lowest 70°; July, highest 91°, lowest 70°; August,
highest 91°, lowest 70° ; September, highest 91°, lowest 67° ; October, highest 85°,
lowest 64°; November, highest 82°, lowest 50°; December, highest 80°, lowest 49°.
Biscayne Bay, at the end of the peninsula, and emptying into Barnes's Sound and
Florida Bay, is a good harbor for vessels drawing less than 10 feet of water, and is
always open. The yield of the bay in sponges and turtle is estimated at $100,000
per annum. Key Biscayne is a small settlement and post-office, and county-site of
Dade County. Ex-Lieutenant-Governor Gleason says of the Biscayne Bay country,
"The pure water, the chalybeate and other mineral springs, the magnificent beauty
of the scenery, the salubrity and equability of its climate, must make Biscayne Bay,
at no distant day, the resort of the invalid, the tourist, and the lover of adventure."
Key West.
How to reach. — Key West is reached from New York by the New York and
New Orleans steamers, leaving Pier 36, North River, every Saturday, at 3 p. m., and
also by the New York and Galveston steamers, leaving Pier 20, East River, every
Saturday, at 3 p. m. From Baltimore, by the Baltimore, Havana, and New Orleans
steamers, on the 1st and 15th of every month. Weekly steamers leave Cedar Keys
and run down the coast to Key West.
Hotels and Boarding-Honses. — The Russell House affords comfortable accommoda
tions to from 50 to 75 guests. Another hotel, to accommodate 200 guests, is about
to be erected. Good board maybe had in private families at from $7 to $12 a week.
Key West, the largest city in Florida, next to Jacksonville, is situated upon the
island of the same name, off the southern extremity of the peninsula, and occupies
the important post of key to the Gulf passage. The island is 7 miles long by from

28

HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.

1 to 2 miles wide, and is 11 feet above the sea. It is of coral formation, and has a
shallow soil, consisting of disintegrated coral, with a slight admixture of decayed
vegetable matter. There are no springs, and the inhabitants are dependent on rain
or distillation for water. The natural growth is a dense, stunted chaparral, in which
various species of cactus are a prominent feature. Tropical fruits are cultivated to
some extent, the chief varieties being cocoanuts, bananas, pineapples, guavas, sapo-
dillas, and a few oranges. The air is pure and the climate healthy. The ther
mometer seldom rises above 90° and never falls to freezing-point, rarely standing
as low as 50°. The mean temperature, as ascertained by 14 years' observations, is,
for spring, 75.79°; for summer, 82.51°; for autumn, 78.23°; for winter, 69.58°.
The city has a population of about 7,000, a large portion of whom are Cubans and
natives of the Bahama Islands. They are a hardy and adventurous race, remark
able for their skill in diving. The language commonly spoken is Spanish, or a patois
of that tongue. The streets of the town are broad, and for the most part are laid
out at right angles with each other. The residences are shaded with tropical trees,

Key West.
and embowered in perennial flowers and shrubbery, giving the place a very pict
uresque appearance. The buildings, however, are mostly small, and are constructed
of wood, except the Western Union telegraph-office, those belonging to the United
States Government, and one other, which are of brick. The public buildings are
the Custom-House, Naval Storehouse, Marine Hospital, County Court- House, County
Jail, a Masonic Hall, and an Opera-House. Near the Naval Storehouse is a monu
ment of dark -gray granite, erected in 1866 to the memory of the sailors and soldiers
who died in the service on this station during the civil war. Key West has a fine
harbor, and being the key to the best entrance to the Gulf of Mexico it is strongly
fortified. The principal work of defense is Fort Taylor, built on an artificial island
within the main entrance to the harbor. It mounts nearly 200 guns, and there are
several sand-batteries. The Barracks are large and commodious, and' are garrisoned
by 60 men. There is a U. S. Bock, with cisterns to catch rain-water, a condensing
and distilling apparatus, and a machine-shop and foundery. Among the principal
industries of Key West are turtling, sponging, and the catching of mullet and other
fish for the Cuban market. The value of sponges annually obtained is about $100 -
000. Upward of 30 vessels, with an aggregate of 250 men, are engaged in wreck
ing on the Florida Reef, and the island profits by this industry to the amount of

HINTS FOR SPORTSMEN. 29
$200,000 annually. The manufacture of cigars employs about 800 hands, chiefly
Cubans, and 25,000,000 cigars are turned out yearly. An establishment for canning
pineapples — the only one in the United States — is also in successful operation.
The city contains Baptist, Episcopal, Methodist, and Roman Catholic churches;
two public and eight private schools; a convent, and two weekly newspapers (one
Spanish). There are a number of charming drives on the island, and the fishing and
boating are unsurpassed.
Steamers leave Key West occasionally for the Dry Tortngas,, a series of desolate,
barren rocks at the extreme end of the Florida Keys. During the war these islands
were used as a penal station for Confederate prisoners, and several of the conspira
tors concerned in the assassination of President Lincoln were confined there.
Hints for Sportsmen.
Probably every portion of the United States, off the beaten lines of travel, has
been in turn described as " a paradise for sportsmen ; " but it is literal truth to say
that there is at the present time no place on the continent like Florida for both
game and fish. In the immediate vicinity even of such centres of population as
Jacksonville, St. Augustine, and Tallahassee, there is excellent sport for either the
angler or the huntsman, and it is only necessary to penetrate a short distance into
the country in any direction in order to find game incredible in quantity and variety.
One great advantage which Florida offers to sportsmen is that, owing to the extreme
mildness of its climate, what is called "roughing it " is a much less trying process
than perhaps anywhere else in America. By taking only the most obvious precau
tions as to clothing, etc.. even invalids may camp out for weeks with substantially no
risk; and, so much of the locomotion being by water, there is comparatively little
likelihood of exhausting fatigue. Some of the most ardent of every season's sports
men belong to the class of "consumptives" who, before reaching Florida, were
afraid to venture out of the house after sunset.
As for game there is an inexhaustible variety from which to choose. Of quad
rupeds, there are the bear, the panther, the lynx, the gray wolf, the gray fox, the
raccoon, the Virginia deer, the Southern fox-squirrel, the gray squirrel, the gray
rabbit, and the opossum. The game-birds include the wild-turkey, the Canada
goose, the mallard, the canvas-back, the teal, the black duck, the scaup-duck, the
red-head duck, the wood-duck, the ruddy duck, the raft-duck, the green wingtail,
the blue wingtail, quail, black-billed plover, golden plover, piping plover, snipe,
yellow-legs, godwits, curlew, black-necked stilt, rails, herons, cranes, and ibis. The
fish include the pompano (most delicious of American fish), the sheepshead, the red-
fish or channel bass, the black bass, the sea-bass, the mullet, the trout, the salt
water trout, the drum, the whiting, the red snapper, the "grouper," the cavalli,
the crab-eater or sergeant fish, the hogfish, the catfish, the " tarpum," the bream,
the sunfish, and several varieties of perch. Sharks are numerous in all the sea-
coast waters, and alligators and other reptiles abound in all the inland streams.
We have already remarked that there is no portion of the State where sufficient
sport cannot be had to satisfy a reasonable amateur's appetite ; but those who are
especially in search of game should go to Mosquito Inlet, to the Indian River, to the
Upper St. John's, to the Upper Ocklawaha (Leesburg), or to the points mentioned
in the preceding section on the " Gulf coast." The southwest coast, in particular, is
comparatively little visited, and the sportsman can hardly make a mistake in attack
ing any part of it.1
1 Those desiring more detailed information should procure " Camp-Life in Florida " (New York : Forest
and Stream Publishing Co.). This book was written by sportsmen fo-r sportsmen, and contains fall and ap
parently trustworthy suggestions as to outfit and equipments, modes and cost of travel, eligible localities,
and means of accommodation.

30

HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.

GEORGIA RESORTS.
Georgia, the last settled of the " original thirteen States," and long regarded as
the "Empire State" of the South, lies just north of Florida, between lat. 30° 21'
and 35° N. and Ion. 80° 48' and 85° 40' W., having an extreme length north and south
of 320 miles, and an extreme breadth east and west of 254 miles, with an area of
58,000 square miles. The sea-coast, extending about 100 miles along the Atlantic,
is similar to that of Florida and the Carolinas, being very irregularly indented, and
skirted by numerous low islands, which extend parallel to the shores, from which
they are divided by narrow lagoons or sounds. The famous Sea-Island cotton is grown
on these islands, and wild-fowl are abundant in all varieties. The State presents a
great variety of surface. Along the coast and the Florida line it is low and swampy,
while a little farther back occur parallel ranges of sand-hills, 40 or 50 feet high.
Near the southeast corner is the Okefinokee Swamp, or rather series of swamps,
about 180 miles in circuit, filled with pools and islands, covered with vines, bay-
trees, and underwood, and teeming with alligators, lizards, and other reptiles. The
elevation for 20 miles inland rarely exceeds 40 feet, and averages 10 to 12 feet above
the sea. Then the land suddenly rises by a terrace 70 feet higher, and this table
land continues nearly level about twenty miles farther inland, when another rise of
70 feet leads to a third tract, which continues to ascend toward the north, till at the
distance of about 150 miles from the sea the elevation is about 575 feet. From the
central portion of the State, the surface becomes more elevated, the hills increasing
in size toward the north, till, at last, they verge upon the great hill-region traversed
by the Appalachian or Alleghany Mountains. These noble ranges occupy all the
northern counties, and present to the charmed eye of the tourist scenes of beauty
and sublimity not surpassed in any part of the Union. The soil of the coast-islands
is light and sandy, but the mainland consists of rich alluvions, producing corn and
cotton in abundance, while the tide-swamps of the rivers are fertile in rice. Back
from the coast is a stretch of sandy land, chiefly valuable for its timber and naval
stores. The southwest portion of the State is light and sandy, but yields good crops

Cotton Picking.
of cotton, corn, tobacco, sweet-potatoes, sugar-cane, fruits, etc. The northern re
gion contains much fertile land, particularly in the valleys, yielding grain, fruits po
tatoes and other vegetables, but is not so well suited to cotton. Near the coast the

GEORGIA RESORTS.

31

growth along the banks of the streams is of canes, cypress, magnolia glauca and
grandiflora, gums of different species, oaks, tulip, ash, sweet-bay, and many other
genera ; while back upon the sandy lands pines and scrub-oaks are almost the only
trees. Several species of palmetto give a tropical aspect to the sea-islands, and the
magnificent live-oaks largely obtained in the vicinity of Brunswick furnish the most
valuable ship-timber grown in the United States. One of the most charming feat
ures of Georgia vegetation is that, in the larger portion of the State, tropical fruits,
and flowers, and shrubbery, grow side by side with those characteristic of the more
northern States. There are many fine rivers in Georgia; but, as with the water
courses of the South generally, they are often muddy, and their only beauty is in
the luxuriant vegetation of their shores, with here and there a bold, sandy bluff.
The Savannah, which divides the States of Georgia and South Carolina through half
their length, has a course, exclusive of its branches, of about 450 miles. The Chat
tahoochee pursues a devious way through the gold-region westward from the moun
tains in the northeastern part of the State, and forms the lower half of the dividing
line between Georgia and Alabama ; at the point where it enters Florida it is joined
by the Flint River, and the united waters are thenceforward called the Appalachi
cola. The Oconee and the Ocmulgee combine to form the Altamaha, which, next to
the Savannah, is the largest river falling into the Atlantic. Other important streams
are the Ogeechee, the Santilla, and the St. Mary's.
The climate of Georgia, like that of California, presents much variety. In the low
lands in summer, it is hot and unhealthy, and malarious fevers are prevalent ; but in
the pine-lands farther back the air is salubrious, while in the northern portion of the
State the summers are always cool and healthful. The winter climate is delightful,
especially in the eastern and southern districts ; the days are bright and sunny, with
little variation in the temperature, and the atmosphere is dry and balmy. The fol
lowing table embodies the results of meteorological observations made at Augusta
and Savannah, under the direction of the chief Signal-Officer of the United States,
for the year ending September 30, 1872 :

MONTHS.

MEAN THERMOME
TER.

TOTAL KAINFAiL,
INCHES.

PREVAILING WIND.

Augusta.

Savannah.

Augusta.

Savannah.

Augusta. 1 Savannah.

66°
544741
46 5066
7479 8180
75

68°
59 51i
46 50bU6776
80 83
8476

1.627.784.985.205.87
10.88 2.95 5.36
4.77 6.87
4.10 1.33

3.552.22 1.59
2.094.65
10.18 2.755.22
9.524.36
12.31 3.52

S. E. i N.E.

W. ' S. W.

N. W ! S. W.
N. W. N. W.
W. I N. W.
N. W. N.W.
S. ! E.
W. 1 s. w.
S. E. S.W.
S.E.
W.
S.W.
E.
S. E.
63.3
66.2
61 75 61 96
W. S. W.
Many consumptives and others who find it necessary to winter in a southern climate
remain at Savannah, Augusta, Charleston, or Aiken, in preference to going to Flor
ida. Here they find comforts, and conveniences, and social attractions, which, of
course, cannot be secured in comparatively remote and unsettled regions ; and the
climate is scarcely less propitious. Out of 13,606 deaths in Georgia in 1870, only
875 were from consumption, and of these the majority occurred among visitors from
the Northern States. The pine-woods of Georgia, beginning about 70 miles from
the coast and extending through the eastern and central sections of the State, are
considered highly beneficial to consumptives, and are resorted to in increasing num
bers. In addition to the dryness and mildness of the atmosphere, the terebinthine
odor of the pine is thought to exercise a curative and healing influence peculiar to
itself. Malarial and pulmonary diseases are unknown in these woods ; and, accord
ing to Dr. Howe, " invalids with troublesome coughs and shortness of breath rapidly
32

HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.

improve after a short residence, and some far advanced in tubercular disease recover
their health completely." Savannah.
How to reach.— From New York, Savannah may be reached by steamer three
times a week, on Tuesdays and Saturdays from Pier 43 North River, at 3 p. m.,
and on Thursdays from Pier 16 East River. Time, about 3 days; fare (cabin), $20.
There are also steamers to Savannah from Philadelphia (Pier 22) every Saturday at
noon, and from Baltimore semi-weekly. Fare from Philadelphia, $20 ; from Balti
more, $15. Savannah may also be reached from the North by any of the thirty
"All-rail Routes" enumerated on page 2, except routes 8, 9, 13, 16, 20, 23, 25, 26,
27, 28, 29, and 30. The fare from New York to Savannah by these routes ranges
from $28.30 to $31.55. From Charleston, Savannah may he reached by either rail
or steamer. Hotels and Boarding-Honscs. — The principal hotels are the Screven House, on John
son Square ($4 a day) ; the Pulaski House, on Bryan St., Johnson Square ($4 a day) ;
the Pavilion ($3 a day) ; the Marshall House, in Broughton St. ($3 a day); and the
Planters' Hotel ($2 a day). McConnell's and Bresnan's are kept on the European
plan. Excellent board may be had in private families in all parts of the city and
also in the suburbs for from $8 to $15 a week.
Location, Climate, and History. — Savannah, the chief city of Georgia, is situated on
the south bank of the Savannah River, 18 miles from its mouth. The site was select
ed by General Oglethorpe, the founder of the colony of Georgia, who made his first
settlement at this point in February, 1733. The city occupies a bold bluff about 40
feet high, extending along the river-bank for a mile, and backward, widening as it
recedes, about 6 miles. The river making a gentle curve around Hutchinson's Island,
the water-front of the city is in the shape of an elongated crescent about 2J- miles
in length. The corporate limits extend back on the elevated plateau about 14. mile,
the total area of the city being 3J- square miles. In its general plan, Savannah is
universally conceded to be one of the handsomest of American cities. Its streets
are broad and beautifully shaded, they cross each other at right angles, and atmany

Savannah.

of the principal crossings are small public squares or parks, from \\ to 3 acres in
extent. These parks, 24 in number, located at equal distances through the city
neatly inclosed, laid out in walks, and planted with the evergreen and ornamental

SAVANNAH.

33

trees of the South, are among the most characteristic features of Savannah; and, in
the spring and summer months, when they are carpeted with grass, and the trees and
shrubbery are in full foliage, afford delightful, shady walks, and playgrounds for the
children, while they are not only ornamental, but conducive to the general health
by the free ventilation which they afford. Upon the large " trust-lots," four of

4PHI

Public Square, Savannah.

which front on each of these squares (two on the east and two on the west), many of
the public edifices and palatial private residences of the city are built. The resi
dences are mostly surrounded by flower-gardens, which bloom throughout the year;
and among the shrubbery, in which the city is literally embowered, are the orange-
tree, the banana, the magnolia, the bay, the laurel, the cape-myrtle, the stately pal
metto, the olive, the flowering oleander, and the pomegranate. Flowers are culti
vated in the open air throughout the year, many choice varieties (queen among them
all the beautiful Camellia japonica, which flourishes here in the greatest perfection,
the shrub growing to a height of from 12 to 15 feet) blooming in mid-winter.
Being in lat. 32° 5' north, and so near the Gulf Stream as to be within the influ
ence of its atmospheric current, the climate of Savannah has all the mildness of

34

HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.

the tropics in winter, without the intense heat in summer, the mean temperature
being 66° Fahr., very nearly the same as that of Bermuda. The winter months are
particularly genial and equable, the days being bright and sunny, with no marked
or sudden changes of temperature. (For details, see meteorological table on page
31). In point of health, the mortuary statistics of Savannah will compare favora
bly with those of any other city of the same population in the United States, the
locality being comparatively free from the fevers of the lower latitudes, and almost
entirely exempt from the pulmonary affections so prevalent farther north. Great
numbers of consumptives and other invalids prefer remaining here, where all the
comforts and conveniences of a city can be secured, to going to the sanitary retreats
farther south.
Savannah was founded, as we have seen, in February, 1733, by General Ogle
thorpe. In 1776 the British attacked it and were repulsed ; but on December 29,
1778, they reappeared in overwhelming force and took possession of the city. In
October, 1779, the combined French and Americans attempted to recapture it, but
were unsuccessful, and Count Pulaski fell in the engagement. Savannah received a
city charter in December, 1789. In November, 1796, a fire destroyed property to
the amount of $1,000,000 ; and in January, 1820, another conflagration occurred, in
volving a loss of $4,000,000. During the civil war the city was occupied as a Con
federate military port and depot. It was the point on the sea to which Sherman's
march from Atlanta was directed, and by December 10, 1864, he had fairly invested
it. The capture of Fort McAllister on December 13th sealed the fate of the city, and
on the night of the 20th General Hardee evacuated his lines and left it to the pos
session of the Union forces. In 1850 Savannah had a population of 15,312 ; in 1860
22,292; and in 1870, 28,235. It is estimated at the present time at about 40,000!
It recovered rapidly from the effects of the civil war, and its commerce has since
about doubled. The chief business of the place is the receipt and shipment of cot
ton, though the trade in lum
ber is also considerable. As
a cotton-port it ranks third in
the United States.
Points of Interest. — The
great warehouses of the city
are located on a narrow street
at the foot of the steep bluff;
they open below on the level
of the piers, and from the up
permost story on the other
side upon a sandy area 200
feet wide and divided by rows
of trees. This is called the
Bay, and is the great commer
cial mart of Savannah. The
principal business streets and
promenades are Bull, Bray-
ton, and Broad Sts. Among
the noteworthy public build
ings are the new granite Cus
tom-House, which also con
tains the Post- Office, corner
Bull and Bay Sts.; the City
Exchange, in front of which
General Sherman reviewed
his army, January 7, 1865;
the Court -House, Theatre,
State Arsenal, Artillery Ar-
bt. Andrew s Hall and the Chatham Academy are conspicuous
the tower of the Exchange the best view of the city and neish-

Presbyterian Church.

mory, and Jail.
buildings. From

SAVANNAH.

35

horhood is to be had. The building on the northeast corner of Bull and Broughton
Sts., known as the Masonic Hall, is interesting as the place where the Ordinance of
Secession was passed, January 21, 1861. Four years later (December 28, 1864), a
meeting of citizens was held in the same apartment to commemorate the triumph
of the Union arms. Among the interesting relics of the past history of Savannah
are the building in which the Colonial Legislature held its sessions, in South Broad
St. near Drayton, and the mansion of the Governor of Georgia during the occupa
tion of the city by the British, which stands in Broughton St. The Market pre
sents an animated and characteristic spectacle in the early morning. The Georgia
Historical Society has a large and beautiful hall, in which are a fine library and
some interesting relics. Of the church edifices the the Episcopal Churches of St.
John's and Christ's are the most striking. The former is in the Gothic, the latter
in the Ionic style. The lofty spire of the Independent Presbyterian Church is much
admired. This church is built of Quincy granite, and cost $130,000. Trinity
Church stands in Johnson Square, near tbe spot where John Wesley delivered his
famous sermons. The new Catholic Cathedral is an imposing structure.
The most attractive place of public resort is Forsyth Park, an inclosure of 30 acres
in the south part of the city. It is shaded by some venerable old trees, is laid out in
serpentine walks, and orna

mented with evergreen and
flowering trees and shrubs.
In the centre is a handsome
fountain, after the model of
that in the Place de la Con
corde, Paris. In Johnson or
Monument Square, near the
centre of the city, is a fine
Doric obelisk, erected to the
memory of General Greene
and Count Pulaski, the cor
ner-stone of which was laid
by Lafayette, during his visit
in 1825. The Pulaski Monu
ment stands in Chippewa
Square, and is one of the
most chaste and perfect speci
mens of monumental archi
tecture in the United States.
The steps are plinths of
granite ; the shaft is of purest
marble, 55 feet high, and is
surmounted by an exquisite
ly-carved statue of Liberty,
holding the national ban
ner. The monument appro
priately covers the spot where
Pulaski fell, during an at
tack upon the city while it
was occupied by the British, in 1779.
at a cost of $22,000, gold.
Though built upon a sandy plain, Savannah is not without suburban attractions,
there being several places in its vicinity whose sylvan character and picturesque
beauty are in keeping with the "Forest City" itself. Thunderbolt, Isle of Hope,
Beaulieu, Montgomery, and White Bluff, tire all rural retreats on "The Salts,"
within short driving-distance of the city, where, in the summer months, bracing sea-
breezes and salt-water bathing may he enjoyed. The great drive is to Bonaventure
Cemetery, which is situated on Warsaw River, a branch of the Savannah, about 4
miles from the city. The scenery of Bonaventure has long been renowned for its

Monument to General Greene.

It was constructed by Launitz, of New York,

36 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.
Arcadian beauty. A hundred years ago the seat of the Tatnalls, a wealthy English
family, the grounds around the mansion were laid out in broad avenues, and planted
in native live-oaks. These trees, long since fully grown, stand like massive columns
on either side, while their far-reaching branches, interlacing overhead like the fretted
roof of some vast cathedral, the deep shade of their evergreen foliage shutting out
the sky above, and the long, gray moss-drapery depending from the leafy canopy,
silent and still, or gently swaying in the breeze, give to the scene a weird and strange
ly sombre aspect, at once picturesque and solemn. A more beautiful or more appro
priate home for the dead than in the shades of these green forest-aisles cannot well
be imagined. On the road to Bonaventure the Catholic Cemetery is passed ; the
municipal cemetery, Laurel Grove, lies northwest of the city, near Forsyth Park.
Thunderbolt, a popular drive and summer resort, is on the Warsaw River, a mile be
yond Bonaventure. According to local tradition, this place received its name from
the fall of a thunderbolt. A spring of water which issued from the spot upon that
event has continued to flow ever since. Jasper Spring, 2J miles west of the city,
is the scene of the famous Revolutionary exploit of Sergeant Jasper, who, with only
one companion, successfully assailed a British guard of eight men and released a party
of American prisoners. White Bluff, 10 miles out, is another favorite resort of the
Savannah people, and the road to it is one of the most fashionable drives.
Augusta.
How to reach. — From Savannah, Augusta is reached either by steamer on the Sa
vannah River or by the Central Railroad (135 miles), or by Savannah, Charleston, &
Port Royal R. R. (141 miles). From Charleston, via the South Carolina R. R. (137
miles). From the North by either of Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 11, 14, and 22, of the " All-
Rail Routes " enumerated on page 2. Fare from New York to Augusta, $22 to $26.
Hotels and Boarding-Houses. — The leading hotels are the Planters' Hotel ($3 a day);
the Globe Hotel ($3 a day) ; and the Augusta Hotel ($3 a day). Good board may be
had in private families at from $8 to $15 a week.
Location, Climite, and History. — Augusta, one of the most beautiful cities in the
South, and the third in population and importance in Georgia, is situated on the
eastern boundary of the State, upon the banks of the Savannah River, 230 miles
from its mouth, and at the head of its navigable waters. The river is wide at this
point, and the shores picturesque. Along the high banks upon which Augusta is
built are rows of old mulberry-trees, the trunks of which are covered with warts
and knot3, and the roots exposed by the washings of many freshets. Facing these
trees are many pleasantly-situated cottages and villas, with very charming prospects
of the river and the green slopes of the opposite shore. The area embraced by the
city proper is 2 miles in length and about a mile in width, but it is rapidly spreading
itself over the level lands westward. It is very handsomely laid out, with wide
streets crossing each other at right angles. These avenues may well claim the palm
for beauty among city thoroughfares. The principal one, Greene Street, is 168 feet
wide, and lined with elegant mansions; tall, spreading trees not only grace the
sidewalks, but a double row, with grassy spaces between, runs down the centre of
the ample roadway. This places beautiful park-grounds before every man's door ;
and the children playing under the trees, and the roaming cattle that are allowed to
gather under the grateful shade, give the scene a domestic peace that is very charm
ing. Broad Street, the main thoroughfare of the city, is another noble avenue, 165
feet wide and 2 miles long. This is the Broadway of Augusta, wherein all the
shopping and promenading are done, and where the banks and hotels and markets
are to be found. Other streets will attract the visitor's notice, and the entire city is
embowered in foliage.
The climate of Augusta is very similar to that of Aiken (from which it is only
17 miles distant). It is slightly cooler than that of Savannah, but is marked by the
same genial equability, the same bright, sunny winter days, and the same dry and
balmy atmosphere. (For details, see meteorological table on page 31.) The mean
temperature in December and January is about 50° Fahr. ; in midsummer it is
S0°. Many consumptives find Augusta more beneficial than the warmer resorts

AUGUSTA. 37
farther south ; and the climate is thought to be peculiarly invigorating to persons
suffering from overwork and nervous exhaustion. A good many invalids, after
spending the first part of the winter in Savannah or in Florida, come to Augusta to
remain during February, March, and April, which are here especially delightful.
Augusta was laid out by General Oglethorpe only two years after the settlement
of Savannah (1735), and became an important point in military operations during
the Revolutionary War, being alternately in the possession of the royal troops and
the Americans. The city was incorporated in 1798, and the chief magistrate bore
the appellation of Intendant until 1818, when the first mayor was elected. It es
caped the ravages of the civil war, and the population increased from 12,493 in 1860
to 15,386 in 1870.
Points of Interest. — There are a few fine public buildings in Augusta, among them a
Masonic Hall of massive and imposing architecture, a handsome Odd-Fellows' Hall,
and an Opera-House of good dimensions and considerable beauty. The City Hall,
completed in 1824 at a cost of $100,000, is a really fine building of venerable age, set
in an ample green amid tall trees, and having about it an air of quiet dignity and
repose. On the green in front of the hall stands a granite monument 45 feet high,
erected by the city in 1849 to the memory of the Georgian signers of the Declara
tion of Independence. The Medical College and the Richmond Academy have neat
buildings; and an Orphan Asylum, 178 feet by 78, has been recently completed at a
cost of $150,000. The churches are about 25 in number, and of all denominations.
St. Patrick's, constructed in 1863 at a cost of $42,000, is a fine edifice. The Mar
ket-Homes are on Broad St., and are f of a mile apart. The rapid development of
the up-country of Georgia, within a few years, has brought down to Augusta great
commercial prosperity; and the water-power, secured by means of the Augusta
Canal, which brings the upper floods of the Savannah River to the city, at an ele
vation of 40 feet, is enriching it by extensive manufactures. This canal, 9 miles in
length, was constructed in 1845. The City Water- Works were completed at a
heavy cost in 1861 ; the- water is drawn from the canal and forced into a tank, hold
ing 185,000 gallons, in a cylindrical brick tower standing 115 feet above the general
level of the city. There is a City Cemetery, which exhibits the taste and care that,
in America, are now so commonly bestowed upon " God's acre." Just outside of the
city, and east of the cemetery, are the Fair-Grounds of the Cotton States Mechanics'
and Agricultural Fair Association, which were opened in 1870. Situated upon a
plain, level as the sea, they are especially adapted to the uses which they serve.
They embrace about 47 acres, and are laid out in attractive walks and drives.
An excellent view of Augusta and its environs may be had from Summcrville, a
suburban town of handsome villas situated on high hills about 3 miles from the
city. A line of horse-cars runs from the town to the summit of the range. Here
are situated many villas and cottages, embowered in trees, with broad verandas,
handsome gardens, and many signs of wealth and culture. The scene is more
Northern in its general features than Southern ; the houses are like those of the
North, and the gardens not essentially different, although the Spanish-bayonet —
that queer horticultural caprice, with its bristling head of pikes — shows a proximity
to tropical vegetation. These heights form a part of the famous red sand-hills of
Georgia, and a characteristic feature are the rich red tints of the roadways. Among
the objects of interest at Summerville, are the United States Arsenal, built in 1827,
and the long range of workshops built and used by the Confederates during the
war. The latter extend upward of 500 feet in length, are substantially built, and
present an imposing effect. Returning to the city by leaving the main road to the
left, a short distance from the Arsenal, the traveler can get a view of the Powder-
Mill and Cotton Factories immediately on the outskirts of the city. These latter
are very extensive, and give constant employment to 700 operatives. There are
other pleasant drives along the banks of the Savannah, particularly below the city ;
and across the river at Hamburg there are some beautiful wooded and grassy ter
races, known as Schultz's Hill, and much resorted to as a picnic-ground.
The river-voyage between Augusta and Savannah is a very pleasant one, pre
senting to the eye of the stranger many picturesque novelties in the cotton-fields

38 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.
which lie along the banks through the upper part of the passage, and in the rich
rice-plantations below. Approaching Savannah the tourist will be particularly de
lighted with the mystic glens of the wild swamp-reaches, and with the luxuriant
groves of live-oak which shadow the ancient-looking manors of the planters. A few
miles above the city of Savannah he may visit the spot where Whitney invented and
first used his wonderful cotton-gin. Thomasville.
How to reach.— Thomasville is situated on the line of the Atlantic & Gulf R. R.,
200 miles from Savannah, 58 miles from Albany via the Albany Division of that
road, and 36 miles from Bainbridge, on the Flint River, where steamer connection
is made with Columbus, Ga., and Appalachicola, Fla.
Across the southern portion of Georgia, from east to west, extends a broad belt
of primitive pine-forest. Its width is about 75 miles, and the surface of the coun
try is almost a dead level. No underbrush grows, and no other tree beside the
tall, spindling, long-leaved pine. The ground is carpeted with a green growth of
weeds, and so open is the forest that were it not for the fallen trunks of dead trees
a horseman might ride through it at a gallop. At the northern verge of this forest-
wilderness, on the highest ground between Savannah and the Flint River, stands
Thomasville, a pretty town of 4,000 inhabitants. It has broad, well-shaded streets,
has Episcopal, Methodist, Baptist, Presbyterian, and Roman Catholic churches, and
in the surrounding country, besides cotton and sugar, grapes are produced in abun
dance. Mr. E. V. Smalley, a correspondent of the New York Tribune, who visited
Thomasville in the spring of 1877, says of it : " Great are the surprise and delight
of the traveler, after journeying all day through the dreary country I have de
scribed, to come at evening to a pretty town in the midst of orchards and green
fields. His astonishment increases when he finds a large hotel, with handsome
furniture and carpets, spring beds, and a civilized bill of fare. A wealthy citizen
of Thomasville built the hotel a year ago, and a Boston man, who keeps a house in
the White Mountains in the summer, conducts it from October to May as a winter
resort for invalids. The town is 300 feet above the sea-level, and has the dry, pure
atmosphere, laden only with the odors of pine-forests, which consumptives highly
prize. The existence of a handsome, thriving little village in the confines of the
wilderness is explained by the fact that there is a belt of fertile, well-settled coun
try on three sides of it. This belt begins at the Okefinokee Swamp and the
Suwanee River, and runs westward, on both sides of the line between Georgia
and Florida, for a distance of about 200 miles. Its average width is 50 miles. The
land is rolling, and the predominant growth of pines is interspersed with oaks and
other deciduous trees. Corn and cotton are the principal crops. Oats and rye do
well, and wheat can be raised, but it does not thrive as well as the other small
grains. A few Northern people have settled in Thomasville, and are anxious to
attract others by making known the advantages of cheap and good lands, and a
climate not extremely warm in summer, and delightfully mild in winter. Uncleared
land can be bought at from one to two dollars an acre, and cleared land at from five
to ten." Mineral Springs.
There are numerous mineral springs in various portions of Georgia, the best
known and most frequented being the Warm Springs, in Meriwether County, 36
miles northeast by stage from Columbus. Nearer railway points are Lagrange, on
the Atlanta & West Point R. R. ; and Geneva, on the Muscogee R. R. The springs
discharge 1,400 gallons of water per minute, of 95° Fahr. The waters are used
for both bathing and drinking. Their effect is tonic and alterative, and they
have acquired considerable reputation for the cure of rheumatism, gout, cutane
ous affections, and other chronic diseases for which such waters are commonly em
ployed. The springs are pleasantly situated in a picturesque and salubrious dis
trict near the Pine Mountains, and the accommodations for visitors are good. Be
sides the warm springs proper there is in the immediate vicinity a cold spring con-

MOUNTAIN REGION AND SCENERY. 39
taining iron and a large proportion of free carbonic-acid gas ; and another containing
sulphates of soda and magnesia, and a large quantity of sulphureted hydrogen.
The Chalybeate Springs, in Talbot County, 7 miles south of the Warm Springs, have
fine tonic properties, and are picturesquely located. They are reached by a stage-ride
of about 20 miles from Geneva, on the Muscogee R. R. The Indian Springs, in Butts
County, are famous sulphurous waters, with a wide reputation for the cure of
chronic rheumatism and various diseases of the liver and stomach. Their virtues
were known to the Indians, and they have long been a place of popular resort. The
springs are reached by stage from Forsyth, a town on the Macon & Western R. R.,
26 miles from Macon. Among the attractions in the vicinity are the beautiful Falls
of the Towaligo. The river above the falls is about 300 feet wide, flowing swiftly
over a rocky shoal. At its first descent it is divided by a ledge of rock, and forms
two precipitous falls for a distance of 50 feet. The falls are much broken by the
uneven surface over which the water flows, and on reaching their rocky basin are
shivered into spray and foam. From the foot of the fall the stream rushes rapidly
down its declivitous channel for 200 feet, and again bounds over a minor precipice
in several distinct cascades, which commingle their waters at its base in a cloud of
foam. The Madison Springs, in Madison County, are a pure and excellent chalyb
eate, having wide reputation as a tonic. They are reached by stage from Athens,
on the Athens branch of the Georgia R. R. The Red Sulphur Springs (or "Vale
of Springs ") are at the base of Taylor's Ridge, in Walker County, the northwest
corner of the State. No less than 20 springs are found here in the space of half a
mile — chalybeate, red, white, and black sulphur, and magnesia. In the vicinity are
Lookout Mountain and other beautiful scenery. The Catoosa Springs are in Catoosa
County, 4 miles from Ringgold on the Western & Atlanta R. R. The waters are a
saline chalybeate, and the springs are much resorted to in the watering-season. Row
land's Springs, in Bartow County (6 miles from Cartersville on the Western &
Atlanta R. R.), and Gordon's Springs, in Murray County, are chalybeate, and have
begun to attract the attention of invalids. The Thundering Springs are in Upson
County ; the nearest railway-station is Forsyth, on the Macon & Western R. R.
The Powder Springs, sulphur and magnesia, are in Cobb County, 20 miles above
Atlanta. Mountain Region and Scenery.
Throughout all Northern Georgia the traveler will find a continuation of that
charming Blue Ridge landscape which constitutes the chief beauty of the scenery of
Virginia and Western North Carolina. Here are the famous gold-lands, and in the
midst of them Bahlonega, which contains a branch of the United States Mint, and
which is beautifully situated on a high hill commanding a magnificent view of the
mountain scenery of this lovely region. The most frequented if not the finest
scenes in this neighborhood are in the northeast, as the wonderful falls of Tallulah
and Toccoa, the valley of Nacoochee and Mount Yonah, in Habersham County, the
Cascades of Eastatoia, and the great Rabun Gap in Rabun ; all within a day's ride
of the Sable Mountain, Caesar's Head, Jocasse, the Whitewater Falls, and other
wonders of South Carolina, described in the chapter on that State. Farther west
are the Falls of Amicalolah, the Cahutta Mountain, the Dogwood Valley, and Look
out Mountain. This region was the hunting-ground of the Cherokees, before the
final removal of the tribe to new homes beyond the Mississippi.
The point of rendezvous for the exploration of the mountain region is Clarksville,
a pleasant village in Habersham County, much resorted to in summer by the people
of the "Low Country " of Georgia. It is reached by stage from Bellton or Toccoa
City, on the Atlanta & Richmond Air Line R. R. ; or by stage from Walhalla (on
the Blue Ridge, Anderson, Greenville & Columbia R. R.) to Clayton, which is still
nearer the mountains. Fair accommodations for travelers may be had at Clarksville,
and also horses or wagons for the exploration of the surrounding country. The
celebrated Toccoa Fall is a few miles from Clarksville. A narrow passage leads from
the roadside to the foot of the falls. Before the spectator rises a perpendicular
rock resembling a rugged stone-wall 180 feet high, and over it
" The brook comes babbling down the mountain's Bide."

40

HA>JD-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.

There are picturesque legends connected with this winsome spot ; one of which
narrates the story of an Indian chief and his followers, who, bent upon the exter
mination of the whites, and trusting to
jSpssr the guidance of a woman, were led by
her over the precipice, and, of course,
perished in their fall. The Cataracts of
Tallulah are 12 miles from Clarksville, by
a road of very varied beauty. From
Toccoa to Tallulah the cut across is only
5 or 6 miles. There is a comfortable
; hotel near the edge of the gorges trav-
; ersed by this wild mountain-stream, and
. hard by its army of waterfalls. The Tal-
pl lulah, or Terrora, as the Indians more
appositely called it, is a small stream,
which rushes through a chasm in the
Blue Ridge, rending it for several miles.
The ravine is 1,000 feet in depth, and of
an equal width. Its walls are gigantic
cliffs of dark granite. The heavy masses,
piled upon each other in the wildest con
fusion, sometimes shoot out, overhanging
the yawning gulf, and threatening to
break from their seemingly frail tenure,
and hurl themselves headlong into its
dark depths. Along the rocky and un
even bed of this deep abyss the infuriated
Terrora frets and foams with ever-vary
ing course. Now, it flows in sullen maj
esty, through a deep and romantic glen,
embowered in the foliage of the trees,
which here and there spring from the
rocky ledges of the chasm-walls ; anon,
it rushes with accelerated motion, break
ing fretfully over protruding rocks, and uttering harsh murmurs as it approaches
the verge of a precipice, and plunges in a broad sheet into the loud-resounding
gorge below. The most familiar point of observation is The Pulpit, an immense
cliff which projects far into the chasm. From this position, the extent and
depth of the fearful ravine and three of the most romantic of the numerous cata
racts are observed. At various other localities fine glimpses down into the deep
gorge are afforded, and numerous other steep paths lead to the bottom of the
chasm. At the several cataracts — the Lodore, the Ternpesta, the Oceana, the
Serpentine, and others— the picture is ever a new and striking one — which the
most striking and beautiful, it would be very difficult to determine. The natural
recess called the Try sting- Rock, once the sequestered meeting-place of Indian
lovers, is now a halting-spot for merry groups as they descend the chasm, just
below the Lodore Cascade. From this point, Lodore is upon the left, up the stream ;
a huge perpendicular wall of party-colored rock towers up in front and below ; to
the right are seen the foaming waters of the Oceana Cascade, and the dark glen into
which they are surging their maddened way. Tempesta, the Serpentine, and other
falls, lie yet below. The wild grandeur of this mountain-gorge, and the variety,
number, and magnificence of its cataracts, give it rank with the most imposing
waterfall scenery in the Union. The Valley of Nacoochec (or the Evening Star) is a
pleasant day's excursion from Clarksville. The valley is said by tradition to have
won its name from the story of the hapless love of a beautiful Indian princess,
whose sceptre once ruled its solitudes; but with or without these associations it
will be remembered with pleasure by all whose fortune it may be to see it. Mount
Yonah looks down into the quiet heart of Nacoochee, lying at its base ; and if the

Falls of Toccoa.

SOUTH CAROLINA RESORTS. 41
tourist should stay overnight in the valley, he ought to take a peep at the mountain
panorama from the summit of Yonah. Another interesting peak in this vicinity is
Mount Currahee, which is situated south of Clarksville, a few miles below the
Toccoa Cascade. The traveler, fresh from the lowlands, always finds this a scene
of much interest.
The Falls of the Eastatoia are about 3 miles from Clayton (see page 39), in Rabun,
the extreme northeastern county of Georgia. Clayton may be reached easily from
Clarksville, or by a ride of 12 miles from the cataract of Tallulah. The falls lie off
the road to the right, in the passage of the Rabun Gap, one of the mountain-ways
from Georgia into North Carolina ; they would be a spot of crowded resort were
they in a more thickly-peopled country. The scene is a succession of cascades, no
ble in volume and character, plunging down the ravined flanks of a rugged moun
tain-height. From the summit of one of the highest of the falls, a magnificent view
is gained of the valley and waters of the Tennessee, north of the village of Clayton,
and of the hills which encompass it.
Union County, adjoining Habersham on the northwest, is distinguished for natural
beauty, and for its objects of antiquarian interest. Among these latter is the Track
Rock, bearing wonderful impressions of the feet of animals now extinct. Pilot
Mountain, in Union, is a noble elevation of some 1,200 feet. The Hiawassee Falls,
on the Hiawassee River, present a series of beautiful cascades, some of them from
60 to 100 feet in height. The much-visited Falls of Auiicalolah are in Lumpkin
County, 17 miles west of the village of Dahlonega, near the State road leading to
East Tennessee. The name is a compound of two Cherokee words — "Ami," signi
fying water, and " Calolah," rolling or tumbling ; strikingly expressive of the cata
ract, and affording us another instance of the simplicity and significant force of
the names conferred by the untutored sons of the forest. The visitor should
rein up at the nearest farm-house, and make his way thence, either up the Rat
tlesnake Hollow to the base of the falls, or to the summit. The range of moun
tains to the south and west, as it strikes the eye from the top of the falls, is truly
sublime ; and the scene is scarcely surpassed in grandeur by any other, even in this
country of everlasting hills. The view of the falls from the foot is much more strik
ing than the view from above ; both, however, should be obtained, for here we have
a succession of cataracts and cascades, the greatest not exceeding 60 feet in height,
but the torrent, in the distance of 400 yards, descending more than as many hun
dred feet.
JVickojack Cave extends into the Raccoon Mountains, near the northwest extremity
of the State, for several miles, with a portal 160 feet wide and 60 feet high, through
which flows a stream, up which boats can pass for 3 miles to a cataract. The cave
is said to have been the headquarters of the leader of a band of negro outlaws. He
was known by the name of " Nigger Jack ; " hence the name of the cave.

SOUTH CAROLINA RESORTS.
South Carolina, one of the original thirteen States of the Union, is situated be
tween lat. 32° and 35° 10' north, and Ion. 78° 25' and 83° 19' west. It has the form
of an irregular triangle, with the coast-line for its base, and Georgia and North Car
olina for its converging sides. Its extreme length from east to west is 275 miles, and
its greatest breadth from north to south 210 miles ; area about 34,000 square miles.
The topography of the State resembles that of Georgia. The coast for about 100
miles inward is flat and sandy, with a light soil, covered by pitch-pine forests, trav
ersed by sluggish streams, and interspersed with numerous swamps. This portion
of the State is of alluvial formation. Beyond this plain is a belt of low sand-hills,
called the "middle country," which is moderately productive. West of the middle
country is a belt called the "ridge," where the land rises abruptly, and thence con
tinues to ascend, exhibiting beautiful alternations of hill and dale, till it terminates,
4

42 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.
at the extreme northwest part of the State in the Blue Ridge, the highest peak of
which in South Carolina is Table Mountain, 4,000 feet above the Atlantic. The
coast presents numerous inlets, bays, shallow sounds and lagoons, and a few good
harbors; small iplands skirt the southern portion, shut off from the mainland by nar
row channels, which afford "inside" steamboat communication between Charles
ton and Savannah. These islands are low and flat, and produce sea-island cotton.
Rice is also produced in large quancities, and tropical fruits flourish. The natural
scenery of the State is exceedingly varied : on the seaboard of the south, broad
savannas, and deep, dank lagoons, covered with teeming fields of rice, and fruitful in
a thousand changes of tropical vegetation ; in the middle districts, great, undulating
meadows, overspread with luxuriant maize, or white with snowy carpetings of cot
ton ; and, again, to the northward, bold mountain-ranges, valleys, and waterfalls.
There is very little waste-land in South Carolina, and the soil is generally fertile,
producing in abundance cotton, rice, tobacco, maize, oats, rye, barley, wheat, all kinds
of garden vegetables, and numerous varieties of fruit. Of forest-trees, on the islands
are found the live-oak, pine, palmetto, and laurel ; in the lower and pine-barren dis
tricts, pitch-pine; and in the middle and higher regions, oak, hickory, and pine.
The palmstto is the most characteristic of the vegetable productions, and it grows in
such abundance, especially in the southern districts, that South Carolina is known
throughout the Union as the " Palmetto State." The State is remarkably well wa
tered, and almost every county abounds in good water-power. Among the more im
portant rivers are the Savannah, the Great Pedee, the Santee and its affluents, the
Congaree and Wateree, the Saluda and the Broad, the Edisto and the Combahee, to
gether affording an inland navigation of 2,400 miles.
Of the climate of South Carolina, Dr. Joseph W. Howe, of New York, who has
made a special study of its adaptation to invalids from the North, says: "In many
respects it has a climate resembling Southern Europe, without any more sudden
variations in the daily temperature than are noticed there. Both the Carolinas are
good winter resorts, but they are objectionable in the summer months. . . . During
the winter there is very little rain; the days are usually cloudless and warm. The
diurnal thermal variations are greater than in Florida. Between the day and night
temperature there is often a difference of 20° Hence, invalids must pay great at
tention to their clothing, and provide suitable winter dress for day and evening wear.
Consumptives generally improve faster in the highlands of the western part of the
State than in the counties bordering on the Atlantic. However, there are some who
prefer the moister and lower lands, and who do well there. Rheumatic and gouty
patients may reside anywhere in the neighborhood of the mineral springs. Those
afflicted with malaria will do well to seek a residence in some other State, but they
may derive benefit from the climate of the northern slope of the Blue Ridge Moun
tains. The fall and spring months are the best seasons to reside in South Carolina.
The latter part of December, January, and February, consumptives who are beyond
the incipient stages will do well to go farther south into Georgia or Florida. March
and April are exceedingly mild in South Carolina, and very free from disagreeable
variations." For details as to thermometrical range and mean temperature, consult
the following articles on Charleston and Aiken. Out of 7,380 deaths in the State in
1870, 657 were from consumption ; there being 11.2 deaths from all causes to one from
this disease. Pneumonia caused 709 deaths out of the total number, or 10.4 deaths
from all causes to one from this disease. Charleston.
How to reach. — From New York, Charleston is reached direct via "New York
and Charleston Steamships," leaving Pier 29 North River at 3 p. m. on Tuesdays,
Thursdays, and Saturdays. Time, about 3 days; fare, cabin, $20. From Phila
delphia, via steamer leaving Pier 4 every Friday. Time and fare same as from New
York. From Baltimore by steamer every 5 days. Time, about 50 hours ; fare, $15.
From either of the above cities and from the North generally it may be reached by
Nos. 5, 7, 12, 19, and 24, of the " All-Rail Routes" enumerated on page 2. The
fare from New York to Charleston is $24.35 by the first-mentioned route, and $25 by

CHARLESTON.

43

the last four. From Savannah, Charleston may be reached by either steamer or
railroad. Hotels, Boarding-Houses, etc. — The leading hotel is the Charleston Hotel ($4 a day),
centrally located in Meeting Street, between Hayne and Pinckney Sts. It is noted
for its great stone colonnade and piazza, reaching from pavement to roof. The Mills
House, also in Meeting St., is temporarily closed. The Pavilion Hotel ($3 a day), cor
ner Meeting and Hasel Streets, and the Waverley House ($2.50 a day), in King
Street, near Hasel, are unpretentious but comfortable houses. Board may be had
in different parts of the city at from $8 to $20 a week. There are few restaurants
in Charleston, almost none deserving the name, though there are "lunch-rooms "
with bars attached. The best of these are in Bay Street, near Broad, and in King
Street, near Wentworth.
Location, Climate, and History.— Charleston, the chief commercial city of South Car
olina, is picturesquely situated at the confluence of the Ashley and Cooper Rivers,
in lat. 32° 45' north, and Ion. 79° 57' west. The rivers run a parallel course for
nearly 6 miles, widening as they approach the sea, and thus gradually narrowing the
site of the city to a peninsula. The harbor is a large estuary, extending about 7
miles to the Atlantic, with an average width of 2 miles. It is landlocked on all sides

except an entrance of about a mile in width. The passage to the inner harbor is de
fended by four fortresses. On the right at the entrance is Fort Moultrie, on Sulli
van's Island, occupying the site of the fort which, on June 28, 1776, beat off the
British fleet of Sir Peter Parker. On the left, raised upon a shoal in the harbor and
directly covering the channel, is Fort Sumter, rendered famous by the part played
in the opening scenes of the civil war. Immediately in front of the city, and but
one mile from it, is Castle Pinckney, covering the crest of a mud-shoal, and facing the
entrance. A fine view of the city is obtained in entering the harbor from the sea;
and, as it is built on low and level land, it seems to rise from the water as we ap
proach, whence it has been called the "American Venice." The corporate limits of
Charleston extend from the Battery or White Point, on the extreme southern verge
of the city, to an arbitrary line on the north, about 3 miles above. Within this area
the city is laid out with tolerable regularity, the streets generally crossing each
other at right angles. The houses are mostly of brick or wood, and have large open
grounds around them. There are few regular blocks or rows of buildings, and no
uniformity; hut what is lost in this respect is gained in variety, and with the fine
gardens, shade and fruit trees, creepers, vines, the magnolia, the oak, the cedar,
and the pride of India, girdling the quaint dwelling-houses, the effect is highly pictu
resque. The climate of Charleston is very similar to that of Savannah, and differs but
little from that of the most favored localities in Southern Europe. The genial Con-

44 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.
trast which its mildness in winter presents to the fierce rigors of the Northern
States, is yearly drawing to it more and more visitors, and increasing its claims to be
numbered among the popular winter resorts. The mean temperature of Charleston
is: for spring, 65.8°; for summer, 80.6° ; for autumn, 68.1°; for winter, 51.7° ;
for the year, 66.6°. The average rainfall is: spring, 8.60 inches; summer, 18.68;
autumn, 11.61 ; winter, 9.40 ; year, 48.29. Prevailing wind, southwest. From care
ful observations taken during the year 1872 it was found that the mean temperature
of January was 45° ; of February, 48.5° ; of March, 51° ; of April, 65.6° ; of May,
74.9° ; of June, 79.7° ; of July, 84.1° ; of August, 81.8° ; of September, 77.8° ; of Octo
ber, 69° ; of November, 59° ; of December, 49°. There is comparatively little rain
fall in winter; the days are bright, sunny, and cheerful ; and it is seldom that even
invalids are compelled to remain in-doors on account of the inclemency of the weath
er. As in the case of Savannah and Augusta, many consumptives and other inva
lids prefer remaining in Charleston — -where they can enjoy all the comforts, con
veniences, luxuries, facilities, diversions, and social attractions of a large city — to
going to the sanitary resorts farther south. Charleston is especially attractive to
those who, without being sick, desire to escape the rigors of a Northern winter.
Charleston was settled in 1679 by an English colony under William Sayle, who
became the first Governor. It played a conspicuous part in the Revolution, having
been the first among the chief places of the South to assert a common cause with and
for the colonies. It was thrice assaulted by the British, and only yielded to an over
whelming force, May 12, 1780. It was the leading city, both in the Nullification
movement during Jackson's Administration and in the incipient stages of Southern
secession. Open hostilities in the civil war began at Charleston, with the bombard
ment of Fort Sumter on April 12, 1861 ; and for the next four years it was one of
the chief points of Federal attack, without being lost by the Confederates, however,
until Sherman's capture of Columbia on February 17, 1865. During the war many
buildings were destroyed, and the towers and steeples of churches were riddled
with shot and shell. Since its close rapid progress has been made in the work
of rebuilding, and Charleston is now more prosperous than ever. The growth of
population has been as follows: In 1800, it was 18,711 ; in 1850, 42,985; in I860,
40,519 ; and in 1870, 48,956. The commerce of the city is large, the chief exports
being cotton (for which it is one of the chief shipping-ports), rice, naval stores, and
fertilizers. The manufacture of fertilizers from the valuable beds of marl and phos
phate, discovered in 1868, is now one of the principal industries ; but there are also
flour and rice mills, bakeries, carriage and wagon factories, and machine-shops.
Modes of Conveyance. — Three lines of horse-cars traverse the city, and afford easy
access to the chief points of interest (fare 10c). They pass through the principal
streets, from the Exchange and the Battery to the upper ends of Rutledge Ave. and
Meeting St. Omnibuses are in waiting at the depots and landings on the arrival of
trains and steamers, and convey passengers to any portion of the city (fare 50c).
Livery-stables are attached to the different hotels, and, though the charges are not
uniform, they are usually moderate.
Streets and Drives. — The two principal streets are King and Meeting, which run
north and south, nearly parallel, the whole length of the city, but converge to inter
section near the northern limits. King St. contains the leading retail stores, and is
the fashionable promenade. The jobbing and wholesale stores are chiefly in Meeting
St. ; and the banks, and brokers' and insurance offices, are in Broad St. The Bat
tery is a popular promenade, lying near the water's edge, and commanding an ex
tensive view of the bay; it is surrounded by fine private residences. Fine resi
dences are also found in Meeting St. below Broad, in Rutledge St. and Ave., and at
the west end of Wentworth St. The roads leading out of the city along the Ashley
and Cooper Rivers are singularly beautiful, and afford interesting drives. They
are all richly embowered in loveliest foliage ; pines, oaks, magnolias, myrtles, and
jasmines, vying with each other in tropical luxuriance and splendor. There are
also fine drives on Sullivan's Island (reached by ferry).
Puhlic and Prominent Buildings. — Several of the most important of these are clus
tered at the intersection of Broad and Meeting Sts. On the northeast corner is the

CHARLESTON.

45

City Hall, an imposing building, entered by a double flight of marble steps, and
standing in an open square. The Council-Chamber is handsomely furnished, and

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contains some interesting portraits. On the northwest corner is the Court-House,
a substantial structure of brick, faced so as to resemble stone. On the southeast
corner stands St. Michael's Church, which will be described further on ; and on the
southwest corner is the Guardhouse, or Police Headquarters, a plain brick building,
with a colonnade extending over the sidewalk in Broad St. The force is semi-military
in organization, and is composed about equally (or was until recently) of whites and
negroes, who drill with Winchester rifles. At the foot of Broad St. stands the Post-
Office, a venerable structure, dating from the colonial period, the original material hav
ing been brought from England in 1761. It was much battered during the war, but
has since been renovated. The new Custom- House, which has been building for sev
eral years and is still unfinished, is situated just south of the Market- wharf, on Cooper
River. It is of white marble, in the Roman-Corinthian style, and will be the finest
edifice in the city. A noble view is obtained from its graceful Corinthian portico.
The Charleston Club-House is an elegant building, in Meeting St. between Broad
and Tradd, with a pretty garden in front. It was erected before the war, by the
Carolina Club (which was broken up by the war), and is now used by the United

46 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.
States Courts. The Chamber of Commerce occupies the 2d and 3d floors of a hand
some building at the corner of Broad and East Bay Sts. ; it has a good reading-room
and a restaurant for the use of the members. The Academy of Music, cor. King
and Market Sts., is one of the finest theatres in the South. It is 60 by 231 feet,
and cost $160,000. Besides the theatre, with accommodations for 1,200 persons,
it contains two large halls for concerts, lectures, etc. The Masonic Temple is a
large but rather fantastic building, at the cor. of King and Wentworth Sts. The
old Orphan-Honse, standing in the midst of spacious grounds, between Calhoun and
Vanderhorst Sts., is the most imposing edifice in the city, and one of the most
famous institutions of the kind in the country. John C. Fremont, once a candidate
for the presidency, and C. C. Memminger, Confederate Secretary of the Treasury,
were educated there. A statue of William Pitt, erected during the Revolution,
stands in the centre of the grounds. The College of Charleston, founded in 1788,
has spacious buildings, located in the square bounded by George, Green, College,
and St. Philip Sts. It has a library of about 6,000 volumes, and a valuable museum
of natural history. The Medical College, cor. Queen and Franklin Sts., and Roper
Hospital, cor. Queen andMazyck Sts., are large and handsome buildings, the latter
especially so. On the same square with these two are the City Hospital and the
County Jail. The Workhouse, near by, in Magazine St., is a spacious castellated
structure in the Norman style. The Charleston Library, founded in 1748, has a
plain but commodious building at the cor. of Broad and Church Sts. It lost heavily
in the fire of 1861, but now contains about 20,000 volumes. The South Carolina
Society Hall, in Meeting St, near St. Michael's Church, is a substantial structure,
with colonnade and portico, and a fine interior. Market Hall, in Meeting St. near
the bay, is a fine building, in temple form, standing on a high, open basement,
having a lofty portico in front, reached by a double flight of stone steps. In rear
of this building are the markets, consisting of a row of low sheds supported by
brick arches, and extending to East Bay St. Between 6 and 9 a. m. these markets
present one of the most characteristic sights that the stranger can see in Charleston,
and should by all means be visited.
Churches. — There are at least two churches in Charleston that no stranger should
fail to visit — St. Michael's and St. Philip's — both Episcopal. St. Michael's is at the
southeast corner of Broad and Meeting Sts. It was built in 1752, it is said from
designs from a pupil of Sir Christopher Wren. The tower is considered very fine,
and- the situation of the church makes the spire a conspicuous object far out at sea.
Its chimes are celebrated for their age and sweetness. During the siege of Charles
ton, in the late war, the spire was a mark for the Federal artillerymen ; but,
though persistently shelled, it was struck but a few times, and then only with slight
injury. The view from the belfry is very fine, embracing the far stretch of sea and
shore, the fortresses in the harbor, the shipping, and nearer at hand buildings as
ancient as the church itself. St. Philip's, in Church St. near Queen, was the first
church establishment in Charleston ; but the present structure, although of vener
able age, is yet not quite so old as St. Michael's. The view from the steeple is fine;
but there is a keener interest in the graveyard than even in the old church itself,
for here lie South Carolina's most illustrious dead. In the portion of the grave
yard that lies across the street is the. tomb of John C. Calhoun. It consists of a
plain granite slab, supported by walls of brick, and for inscription has simply the
name of " Calhoun." St. Finbar's Cathedral (Roman Catholic), or rather the ruins
of it (for the building was destroyed in the great fire of 1861), is at the cor. of
Broad and Friend Sts. It was one of the most elegant edifices in Charleston, and
the walls, turrets, and niches, still standing, are highly picturesque. The Citadel
Square Baptist Church, cor. Meeting and Henrietta Sts., is a fine building, in the
Norman style, with a spire 220 feet high. The Central Presbyterian, in Meeting
St. near Society, has an elegant Corinthian portico with 8 columns. The Unitarian
Church, in Archdale St. near Queen, is a fine specimen of the perpendicular Gothic
style, and has a very rich interior. The new German Lutheran Church, in King
St. opposite the Citadel, is a handsome building, in the Gothic style, with lofty and
ornate spire. Grace Church (Episcopal), in Wentworth St., is the most fashionable

CHARLESTON. 47
in the city. The old Huguenot Church, corner Church and Queen Sts., is worthy
of a visit, if for no other purpose, to see the quaint and elegant mural entablatures
with which its walls are lined.
Suburbs. — Just outside of the city, on the northern boundary, is Magnolia Ceme
tery (reached by horse-cars). It is embowered in magnolias and live-oaks, is taste
fully laid out, and contains some fine monuments, of which the most noteworthy
are those to Colonel Wm. Washington, of Revolutionary fame, Hugh Legard, and
W. Gilmore Simms, the novelist. In a vault repose the remains of Lieutenant Van-

Magnolia Cemetery.
derhorst, whose coffin, shrouded with the Union Jack, may be seen through the
lattice-door of the tomb. — Of the old planters' houses that stood along the Ashley,
but one remains, and that is abandoned. Brayton Hall is a large brick mansion,
standing in the centre of grounds of a park-like character. The rooms are wain
scoted from floor to ceiling, the fireplaces are lined with old-fashioned colored tiles,
and the mantels are richly carved ; but the building was never entirely finished, for
the owner lost the bride for whom it was designed, and since then it has stood in
its incompleteness a memorial of his loss. A few miles farther up the river, on
a slight elevation, are the ruins of the celebrated Middleton Place, once one of

48 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.
the most beautiful plantations in South Carolina. The scenery, the flowers, hedges,
and shrubbery, the undergrowth and noble oaks, the ponds and lakes, the pictu
resque old tombs — these still remain, but it is melancholy to contemplate that all the
ruin which one sees around him was caused by the unsparing hand of war. Visit
ors frequently make a pilgrimage to the spot in order to gratify their curiosity,
and, if reports are true, the house has suffered greatly from their unscrupulous
desire for relics. A steamer makes regular excursions to this place during the
winter. — Perhaps the most interesting spot in the neighborhood of Charleston is
the old Church of St. James on Goose Creek (reached by carriage, or by Northeastern
R. R. to Porcher's station, 15 miles). It is situated in the very heart of a forest, is
approached by a road little better than a bridle-path, and is entirely isolated from
habitations of any sort. The church was built in 1711, and was saved from
destruction during the Revolutionary War by the royal arms of England that are
emblazoned over the pulpit. The floor is of stone, the pews are square and high,
the altar, reading-desk, and pulpit, are so small as to seem like miniatures of ordi
nary church-fixtures, and on the walls and altar are tablets in memory of the early
members of the congregation. One dates from 1711 and two from 1717. — A short
distance from the church, on the other side of the main road, is a farm known as
The Oaks, from the magnificent avenue of those trees by which it is approached.
The trees are believed to be nearly 200 years old; they have attained great size,
and for nearly J- of a mile form a continuous arch over the broad road.
Not the least interesting of the "sights" of Charleston, even to a casual tourist,
will be a visit to the "Phosphate Mines.'' as they are called, along the Ashley River
or on Bull River. The phosphates overlie the extensive marl-beds of the South Caro
lina lowlands, which have long been known, and cover almost the entire peninsula
between the Ashley and Cooper Rivers. To the unscientific eye they appear to be
merely stones or nodules of various shapes, and ranging in size from a walnut to a
bowlder. Since the Eocene period there they have lain, richer than a gold-mine,
awaiting the test of the exploring chemist who was to develop the fact that they
contained from 40 to 70 per cent, of phosphatic strength ; that every ton was worth
sixty dollars in the market for fertilizing purposes ; and that every acre of land,
previously owned as almost valueless, held, but a few inches below its surface,
thousands upon thousands of dollars in actual, tangible wealth. This test was
applied in 1865 by one of the resident chemists — and so poor was he at the time
that he could not afford to hire a horse with which to pursue his investigations.
He endeavored to borrow money in Charleston, and to organize a company for the
purchase of some of these lands, but failed. The capitalists looked on him as a
theorist. A friend loaned him money enough to reach Philadelphia. There he ex
hibited his specimens, explained the character of his discovery, and with three or
four gentlemen inaugurated the enterprise. In a little while they owned 20 square
miles of the richest phosphate-lands around Charleston. A great factory was built
for the manipulation of the article, which consists — 1. Of its removal from the
earth and transportation. 2. Washing, or burning, and drying. 3. Grinding to
powder and mixing with sulphuric acid. It is then ready for use as a pure phos
phate, or may be still further combined with fish, guano, or other articles calculated
to make it more valuable on certain soils. Since that time many companies have
been formed, and it has been discovered that the entire coast, including the beds of
the rivers, is covered with this valuable fertilizer. Fleets of English and Scotch
vessels are to be seen at nearly all seasons of the year in Bull River, and at other
points, loading with phosphate in its rough state just as it comes from the land or
water. Its value in even this rude condition is six or seven dollars per ton. Em
ployment is thus given to thousands of negroes, and much machinery has been
invented and manufactured to aid in obtaining the article by the most speedy and
economical means. Through the winter boats frequently run to these works with
excursion-parties. A day or two may be profitably spent in visiting the various points of interest
in the harbor : Fort Sumter, which is picturesque even in its ruins ; James Island,
with its ruined plantations and crumbling fortifications; Mount Pleasant, once a

SUMMERVILLE.— AIKEN. 49
popular summer resort, but now filled with moss-grown and rotting houses ; and
Sullivan's Island, which is fast becoming the "Long Branch" of South Carolina,
and already contains many handsome cottages and some attractive drives. A steam
boat plies regularly every hour between the city, Mount Pleasant, and Sullivan's
Island, and on the latter is a line of horse-cars. Many Northerners spend the winter
on Sullivan's Island, the climate of which is favorable to consumptives, and pecul
iarly so to sufferers from rheumatism. Summerville.
Summerville is a small town, 22 miles from Charleston on the South Carolina
R. R., situated on a ridge which extends across from the Cooper to the Ashley
River, which is covered with pine-woods, and is remarkable for its healthfulness.
Its climate is very agreeable, especially in winter, when, being beyond the range
of the east winds that frequently prevail on the coast, the temperature is extremely
mild and equable. Many invalids who find the winter climate of Charleston too
variable would derive benefit from a residence here, and its attractions as a health
resort are rapidly becoming known. The village, though containing hut a small
population, spreads over a good deal of ground ; the houses being built far apart, so
that each one is perfectly private, and like a country residence. There is no hotel,
but a number of good boarding-houses at which the charges are from $7 to $10 a
week. Rents are cheap, there are several schools, and churches of nearly all the
religious denominations, while the proximity of Charleston affords liberal supplies
for the market. The South Carolina R. R. runs special trains for the accommoda
tion of residents, who are thus enabled to enjoy all the advantages and attractions
of the adjacent city. The country around abounds in game, and in the immediate
vicinity of the village are many pretty walks and drives, while on the banks of the
Ashley, about 4 miles distant, are some spots of great beauty. The most interesting
of these is Neioington, once an elegant country-seat, now a picturesque ruin. Ap
proaching from Summerville by a rather uninteresting pine-land road, the scene sud
denly changes and the visitor finds himself in the midst of a dense growth of live-
oaks, magnolias, and other trees, denoting the neighborhood of the river. Passing
through these he comes upon an open space in which stand the walls of the once
splendid mansion, almost hidden by a dense growth of vines and creeping plants.
There are remnants of several other fine seats in this neighborhood which were
occupied by wealthy men in the days when this part of the country was more
resorted to in summer than it is at present. Aiken.
How to reach. — The Pennsylvania R. R. Co. sell tickets by ten different routes to
Aiken, as follows: 1. Via Baltimore, West Point, Richmond, Greensboro. Charlotte,
and Augusta (fare, $20.10) ; 2. Via Baltimore, West Point, Richmond, Petersburg,
Wilmington, Florence, and Charleston (fare, $28.10) ; 3. Via Baltimore, Norfolk,
Wilmington, Columbia, and Augusta (fare, $26.75) ; 4. Via Baltimore, Norfolk,
AVeldon, Raleigh, Charlotte, and Augusta (fare, $28.75) ; 5. Via Baltimore, Norfolk,
Wilmington, Florence, and Charleston (fare, $28.75) ; 6. Via Washington, Richmond,
Greensboro, Charlotte, and Augusta (fare, $26.75); 7. Via Washington, Richmond,
Petersburg, Raleigh, Charlotte, and Augusta (fare, $28.60) ; 8. Via Washington,
Richmond, Petersburg, Wilmington, Columbia, and Augusta (fare, $26.75) ; 9. Via
Washington, Richmond, Wilmington, Florence, and Charleston (fare, $28.75) ; 10.
Via Washington, Lynchburg, Danville, Greensboro, Charlotte, and Augusta (fare,
$26.75). A favorite route for invalids from the North is via steamer to Charleston
or Savannah, and thence by rail.
Hotels and Boarding-Houses. — The Highland Park Hotel ($4.50 a day) is a vast
building, situated upon the very edge of the plateau, and overlooking the broad
intervales which drop off from the ridge upon which the town is situated. Near by,
also upon the edge of the highland, is a group of neat cottages which are let to
families who desire to escape the bustle of a great hotel. Other leading hotels are

50

HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.

the Aiken Hotel ($4 a day), and the Clarendon ($3.50 a day). There are great
numbers of boarding-houses in and about the town, charging from $10 to $20 a
week. Location, Climate, and Characteristics. — Aiken, the most frequented winter resort in
America, is situated on the line of the South Carolina R. R., 16 miles from Augusta
and 120 from Charleston. The land upon which it lies is an elevated, sandy plateau,
some 600 or 700 feet above the sea, the water-shed of the Edisto and Savannah
Rivers. The soil is an almost unmixed sand, covered by a scanty crust of alluvium
which is so thin that a carriage-wheel easily breaks through. It bears but little
grass and hardly any of the minor natural plants; but the great southern pine finds
here a congenial habitat, and vast forests of it encircle the town on all sides. The
streets of the town are remarkably wide, the main avenue being 205 feet wide,
and the cross-streets 150 feet. Along the centre of the main avenue are four or
five hitching-circles for mules, three or four wells, and a small town-hall with an
ugly lock-up beneath it; and extending for about -J- of a mile on each side are rows
of shops and offices. The houses are generally large and pleasant, and very far
apart. Within the town, the natural barrenness of the soil has been overcome by
careful culture and a liberal use of fertilizers ; and every house has its garden full
of trees and Southern plants. Inside the white palings are dense thickets of yellow
jasmine, rose-bushes, orange, wild-olive, and fig trees, bamboo, Spanish-bayonet,
and numberless sorts of vines and creepers, to say nothing of the low bush and
surface flowers that are common in the North. But, without the palings, the sand
is as dry and white as it is upon the sea-shore.
The air of Aiken is remarkably pure and dry, and the balsamic odors of the
pines endow it with a peculiar healing power. The winter climate is wonderfully
mild and genial, consisting, as some one has described it, of " four months of June."
From observations recorded during the year 1870, it was found that the mean tem
perature of Aiken in spring is 63.4° ; in summer, 79.1° ; in autumn, 63.7° ; in win
ter, 46.4° ; for the year, 63.1^°- The average rainfall during the same period was,
spring, 11.97 inches; summer, 13.89; autumn, 7.34; winter, 716; for the year,
40.36. The climate is not less beneficial to rheumatic and gouty patients than to
consumptives ; and many come here, who, without being sick, desire to escape the
rigors of a Northern winter. It is said, too, that about one-fifth of the total popu
lation of 2,500 consists of Northerners who have taken up their permanent resi
dence at Aiken.

Table showing the Difference between the Mean Winter Temperature of Aiken and
other Places in the United States and Europe.
Mean winter temperature of Aiken (six months) 51.63°

New York is

35.40°

or 16.23°

colder than Aiken

Cornish, Me.,

26.16°

or 25.47°

tt tt tt

Worcester, Mass.,

31.95°

or 19.68°

tf u ft

Newark, N. J.,

35.88°,

or 15.75°

tf tt a

Philadelphia,

39.30°

or 12.33°

it ti

Chicago,

33.88°

or 17.75°

" " "

Cincinnati,

38.70°

or 12.93°

ft ft tt

St. Louis,

40.11°

or 11.52°

tt tt tt

St. Paul, Minn.,

21.21°

or 30.42°

tt tt It

Florida,

62.06°,

or 10.43°

warmer " "

Nice,

51.80°,

or 0.17°

ft ft tt

Palermo,

51.60°,

or 0.03°

colder " "

Pau,

49.26°,

or 2.37°

tt tt tt

Pisa,

49.00°,

or 2.63°

tt tt it

Madeira,

56.00°,

or 4.37°

warmer " "

Venice,

41.42°,

or 10.21°

colder " "

The best description that has been given of the surroundings of Aiken, and of
the characteristic features of life there, is that which, under the title of " Spring
Days in Aiken," was contributed, by Mr. Albert F. Webster, to late numbers of

AIKEN. 51
Appletons' Journal. The substance of the sketch we shall reproduce in the fol
lowing paragraphs : " The spirit of the town is a languid one. Apart from the
ease and lassitude that naturally belong to the class of visitors, there is a contented
leisure in all the people native to the place. No one seems anxious. No one hastens.
The days and the seasons are long, and life seems endless. If a horse moves faster
than a walk he takes the ' lope,' a pace which is as lazy as the rocking of a cradle.
You hear no rattle of hoofs, for the sand is so soft; the single railroad is hidden in
a cut, and so there is no roar to the approaching trains; there are no factories in
town, and therefore no clatter of machinery and no clangor of bells. Those who
move far, ride. Those who move a little way expect to be brought back by a team.
Those who go across a square take the afternoon. Those who intend to go to
morrow sit down to-day to think it over. Just without the town, indeed encroach
ing upon its very streets, begin the true pine-woods. To the north, east, and south,
the land is level, but to the west it falls away in deep gorges, and gives the shade
and sunshine plenty of play. Through all the forests there run winding paths
and a certain species of thoroughfares, known as ' neighborhood roads.' These
are roads that lead from one house to another, across the country, and without
respect to line or distance. This carelessness makes them charming. They are
commonly hard and of gray-white sand, thickly sprinkled with pine-needles and
fragments of bark, and they lose themselves like threads in a tangle. The moment
that one strolls outside the town he discovers these foot-ways leading off here and
there from the right and the left into leafy obscurities, half illuminated by the sun
and half darkened by the shade of the lofty pine-plumes far above. Few birds are
to be heard. Now and then a jay lifts up its short and somewhat querulous voice,
but commonly all are silent. Where the ground is level one may look far in
advance and see among the brown tree-trunks another portion of the path he is
treading; but upon the western side of the town, where the land is broken, the
way loses itself at once up-hill and down-dale and in winding turns in and out
among the oaken copses. I do not know of a place where people stroll in a truer
way than they do here. To walk in the woods is an important part of the duty
of an invalid, and the pleasantest part of the enjoyment of a lounger. But, to
do it well, to get out of the act all the virtue that lies in it, requires practice in the
great arts of self-abandonment and of seeing. The stroller in Aiken soon becomes
an adept in these arts. He may not be a botanist, and he may know nothing of
trees; he may remember very few verses, and he may have an indifferent eye for
color and artistic effect, yet so gentle will he find the air, so splendid the hues of
the sky, the party-colored sands, and the old and new verdure, and so tranquil and
retired the recesses of the forest, that he will fast become, in spite of his disabilities,
a most observing indolent ; he will not walk, he will saunter; he will not glance,
he will gaze ; he will not pass any plant heedlessly, but he will stop and ponder ;
he will not breathe, he will inhale ; he will not talk, except to himself, for the spirit
of the woods is the same as the spirit of a sanctuary.
" The landscape about Aiken never ' climbs the sky.' Looking off in any direc
tion you find your eye to be on a level with the horizon. There are no hills, no ele
vations of any sort. The sky seems as vast as it seems at sea. The trees, notwith
standing their height and density, lie before you in long lines, with beautiful vistas
between that run on to the right and left indefinitely, but never rise in those grand -
hill-side terraces that are so dear to Northern eyes. This flatness adds to the sense
of tranquillity that you are sure to feel. There is nothing to clamber, nothing to
ascend, nothing wherefrom you are tormented to take a view. To the west of the
town there is a very charming region where the land sinks in a very irregular man
ner away from the high plateau, leaving many isolated hills, scarcely less in height
than the table-land itself. Except at the very bottom of the ravines, the neighbor
hood is well wooded with pines of great size, together with a young growth of
oaks. Among these trees, and perched upon nearly every point of vantage, are low,
wide-porticoed houses, of the true Southern type. Roads turn and twist and turn
again, past and about these dwellings, leading from grove to door and back to grove
again, then losing themselves at once in the thicket. Every house has its formal

52 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.
paling, its fountain of roses, its shaded piazzas, its tilting-board, its quartet of chim
ney-stacks, its sunlit yard, and its look of welcome to the passer-by. Some face
the east, some the west, and some have fronts for all points. From the windows
of one you look down upon the roof of a second, and a little way below and across
at porches of another, or upon the opposite border of the valley. Encircled with
grand if not mournful woods, half enveloped in flowering vines, inviting the soft
winds with their open doors, they completely fill one's notion of true country-
homes. Among these hills are a few cultivated fields, with their red earths, and
among their lanes a few spare cattle wander in search of a little more grass. Negro
cabins stand upon many of the boldest spurs of the land, and the shabby white of
their rough walls adds not a little to that that is picturesque. A little way off be
gins a strange valley, with wooded sides, running to the west, and along whose
bottom trails the 'river of sand.' This river resembles almost any other, except
in the fact that there is not a drop of water in it. The rains have brought down
from the hill-sides thousands of currents of fine, clean earth, of a yellow shade, and
have caused them to eddy about the trees and roots that have stood in the way, and
to spread and disperse themselves in all the inequalities of the ground. Yet the
torrents of water which have caused this have been instantly absorbed in the bed
of their own making, leaving all the marks of their presence, indeed their fac-simi-
les, upon the sand above. It is hereabout that the town-urchins, and industrious
visitors as well, come to gather the colored earth for mementos of the place. It is
not unusual to find before your hotel-door on a March morning a group of children
of all shades of black, holding in their hands bunches of roses in full bloom, and
tubes of glass filled with fifty specimens of tinted sands. The colors range from
green to russet-red and chrome-yellow, and include chocolate and violet. Every
stranger buys, and it is a thriving trade. The land in the region of this river is
filled with springs of the softest water. They trickle out from the hill-sides, cut
deep ravines for themselves in the soft ground, and flow away the veriest threads
ten feet below the surface, and overshaded with grasses and ferns. In the town
they cover the wells with pretty trellis-work, with pagoda-like roofs, and in a few
places in the woods, where the head of water is quite strong, considerable care has
been taken to make the streams approachable.
" The effect of a fair Aiken day upon one fresh from the bitter spring winds of
the North is something wonderful. You descend from your chamber in the early
morning, and find the doors and windows gaping wide, and a faint, fresh breeze
stirring through the house. You perceive the scent of flowers, and you go out upon
the veranda. The garden below you, with its soil of whitish-yellow sand, is over
crowded with verdure. The masses of leaves, so rich are they, seem to have been
lately drenched with water. The white and red roses lift themselves with their
own grace into the sweet air, and every interval in the cloud of green shows a
handful of fragrant blooms. There is none of that earthy scent that one always
perceives in Northern gardens in early morning ; the air is dry, even though it is
cool and fresh. Outside the white fence is the broad, deserted street, with a score
of lofty, fine-leaved oaks growing hap-hazard in the centre of it. A thin sprin
kling of grass covers the untraveled portion of the way, while the tracks in which
the wheels run is of soft earth, ankle-deep. Beneath the shade of the oaks is a
bench or two, where strollers sit when they are tired. Beyond the trees on the
other side of the way are another paling, another garden, and another house
with a pillared portico, perhaps, but all so distant that you look upon the demesne
as a hermitage of some sad recluse — a place not to be thought of with familiarity,
still less to be talked of. In another direction you see a negro's log-cabin built
close on the highway, with its brown-mud chimney sticking close to its shabby end,
and its little herd of children playing and falling about upon the door-step. Beyond
this and beyond the trees, on every side, you catch glimpses of other huts and other
houses: now a gable ; now a gray roof; now another chimney-stack; and now
more pillars and more piazzas. There seem to be plenty of suggestions of life and
neighborhood, but you look in vain for a settlement, and you listen in vain for noises
of bustle and traffic. You walk out into the sunlight at ten o'clock; you pass down

MINERAL SPRINGS. 53
the street, seeing no one and hearing nothing, except now and then, perhaps, the
caroling of some canary-bird in some hidden parlor. You look up the street, and
you see that it disappears at the distance of a quarter of a mile in a wood. You
look down, and you see in another distance that it crosses a ravine by means of a
brown bridge. If you wait a while, a negro will walk past ; or a four-wheeled cart,
drawn by two shaggy oxen, driven by a stolid, pale-faced countryman, will trail
along through the tiresome sand upon the avenue.
" The pleasures to be had at Aiken are all of the minor sort. To walk, to ride
saddle-horses in the afternoon, to visit the out-of-town farms and rose-gardens, to
dance in the evening, are nearly the only means at hand to speed the days. . . .
It is safe to assert that nine persons in every ten are cast down at the end of the
third or fourth day of their stay in the town. They look out of their windows and
see a scanty, silent settlement, a wide expanse of rich foliage, and an arid soil
bedecked with flowers. And this is all. There seems to be nothing to entice or
to stimulate them. They find themselves wholly without scenes that might awaken
strong emotions. After a day or two of prostration, or perhaps of absolute ennui
and disappointment, they begin, out of sheer compulsion, to search about among the
small resources that do exist for satisfaction. And they succeed admirably. They
become enamored of the solemn and limitless woods, and grow content to wander
hour after hour in the companionship of their own spirits. Their yesterday crav
ings for the towering rocks of the great hills become satisfied with the colored
sands that they uncover with their footsteps. They count the kinds, turn the
pretty shades to the snn, and marvel at the profusion of hues. They get as
much out of a handful as they used to get out of a whole landscape. If, in the
depths of the groves, they find a spray of phlox, they gather it, and study it moru
than they ever studied the half-tropical verdure of Florida. When they come upon
an old plantation, with its flat expanse of pale fields, its few verdant copses, its
gray log-cabins, and its lonely dwelling, they stand and gaze at it, and find that it
is overflowing with the most marvelous color. Thus, having been awakened, they
grow content. It is a matter of fact that the rebound from their despair carries
them up to the heights of elation. After five days in Aiken the visitor becomes
happy. It is a place of rest. Every thing in Nature induces tranquillity, and so
does every thing in the town. There is nothing to disturb, nothing to excite; a
tired man may here fold his hands and forget the world. That this forgetfulness,
combined with the comfort of warmth and the pleasure of beholding in the days
of winter the glories of summer, is a gift of inestimable value, it needs no paper
like this to prove. One has but to look closely at the pinched faces that he some
times meets in his walks, to reckon how valuable these few conditions are in the
tiresome struggles of a mortal for a little more time."
Mineral Springs.
The only mineral springs in South Carolina that are much visited are the Glenn
Springs and the Limestone Springs near Spartanburg. Spartanburg is in the north
ern part of the State, 223 miles from Charleston and 93 miles from Columbia by
the Greenville & Columbia and Spartanburg & Union Railways. It is pleasantly
situated in the midst of a region famous for its gold and iron, and is much resorted
to in summer by people from Charleston and the lowlands. It is also a good
winter resort, the air being cooler than, but quite as dry as, that of Aiken. Glenn's
Springs here are strongly impregnated with sulphur, and contain traces of sulphate
of magnesia, with sulphate, percarbonate, and chloride of lime. The waters are
considered efficacious in certain forms of rheumatism, scrofula, and dyspeptic affec
tions. The Limestone Spring is a chalybeate, and possesses valuable tonic proper
ties. The scenery around Spartanburg is very attractive, and not far from the
village is the memorable Revolutionary battle-field of the Cowpens, located on the
hill-range called the Thickety Mountain. The battle was fought January 17, 1781,
and resulted in the defeat of the British under Tarleton. In the olden time the
cattle were suffered to graze upon the scene of the contest — whence its name.
Chick's Springs, in Greenville County, on the Ennoree River, just below the

54

HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.

mountains, are also a good deal visited. The springs are two in number. One is
slightly sulphurous, and is used for hepatic and intestinal affections and cutaneous
diseases ; the other is a mild chalybeate, and is employed as a tonic. The Wil-
liamston Springs, near the railway between Anderson and Greenville, are repre
sented as having valuable tonic and alterative properties.
The Mountain-Region.
The northern districts of South Carolina form, with the neighboring hill-region
of Georgia and the western part of North Carolina, one of the most interesting
chapters in the great volume of American landscape. In mountain surprises,
picturesque valley-nooks, and romantic waterfalls, this region is nowhere surpassed.
Beautiful and healthful villages, with high social attractions, afford most agreeable
homes and headquarters to seekers after the picturesque. These villages are rapidly
becoming favorite resorts of people from the lowlands of the State; and their ele
gant mansions and villas are every year more and more embellishing the vicinity.
Greenville, on the Atlanta & Richmond Air Line R. R., 143 miles from Columbia
and 271 from Charleston, lies at the threshold of the chief beauties of the moun
tain-region, and gives ready access to all the rest. The village is beautifully sit
uated on Reedy River, near its source, and at the foot of the Saluda Mountain.
It is one of the most
popular summer resorts
in the State, and contains
excellent hotels, schools
and colleges, and a uni
versity. Twenty miles above
Greenville is Table Moun
tain, one of the most re
markable of the natural
wonders of the State, ris
ing as it does 4,300 feet
above the sea, with a
long extent on one side of
perpendicular cliffs, 1,000
feet in height. The view
of these grand and lofty
rocky ledges is exceed
ingly fine from the quiet
glens of the valley below,
and not less imposing is
the splendid amphithea
tre of hill-tops seen from
its crown. Among the
sights to be seen from
Table Mountain is Caesar's
Head, a lofty peak with
one side a precipice of
great height, just back of
which is a large hotel.
It is the highest point
in the vicinity, and well
worth a visit. Looking
across the valley from
Table Mountain the Fall
of Slicking is visible, its
long line of sparkling spray heightening the beauty of the scene. The Stool Moun
tain, which is prominent from the valley below, here dwindles to its proper height.
The top of Table Mountain, which is comparatively level, is of great extent. In

NORTH CAROLINA RESORTS. 55
many places the surface is stony, in others alluvial and covered with noble trees.
Near the centre the remains of a hut exist ; a building erected as the kitchen to a
hotel, which it was once contemplated to erect on the rock. The Falls of Slicking
are in the mountain-glens, on the opposite side of the valley, at the base of Table
Rock. Leaving the cabin at the base of the Saluda Mountain, the tourist, in his
ascent, soon finds himself following the windings of the river. After the passage
of about one-quarter of a mile, he reaches the " Trunk," so called from its being
the point of junction of two different branches of the river or creek; the distance
between these streams, as the ascent continues, gradually increases, and, when
near the summit, they are widely separated; they bear one name, and abound,
each, in cascades. The right-hand branch is the more picturesque, and is the one
by which the visitor is usually conducted. From the " Trunk," the gem of all this
locality, and the Table Rock, is a charming view of the neighboring mountains of
Caesar's Head, Bald Mountain, the Pinnacle Rock, and other spurs. At the
" Trunk," the two streams fall perpendicularly some seventy feet, mingling in one
in the basin below. This basin is easily accessible, and nowhere is there a more
secluded or more wildly picturesque spot. Save when in his meridian, the sun's
rays seldom penetrate its solitude. On one side are the two cascades leaping in
snowy masses from rock to rock, and on others are mighty bulwarks of venerable
stone, here and there studded with an adventurous shrub, or overhung with rich
foliage. The Keowee is a beautiful mountain-stream in Pickens County, which, with the
Tugaloo River, forms the Savannah. The route from Greenville to the valley of
Jocasse lies along its banks, amid the most lovely scenery, and the entire region is
full of romantic memories of the Cherokee wars. Jocasse Valley, near the northern
boundary-fine, is one of the most charmingly secluded nooks in the State, environed
as it is on every side, except that through which the Keowee steals out, by grand
mountain-ridges. The great charm of Jocasse is that it is small enough to be seen
and enjoyed all at once, as its entire area is not too much for one comfortable pict
ure. It is such a nook as painters delight in. White Water Cataracts are an hour's
brisk walk north of Jocasse. Their chief beauty is in their picturesque lines, and
in the variety and boldness of the mountain-landscape all around; though they
would maintain their claims to admiration for their extent alone, even were the
accessory scenes far less beautiful than they are. Adjoining this most attractive
region of South Carolina, and easily accessible therefrom, are Tallulah, and Toccoa,
and Yonah, and Nacoochee, and the other lovely spots described in the chapter on
Georgia; also the beautiful scenes of Western North Carolina, to be described in
the next chapter.

NORTH CAROLINA RESORTS.
North Carolina, also one of the original thirteen States, lies just north of South
Carolina, between lat. 33° 53' and 36° 33' north, and Ion. 75° 25' and 84° 30' west,
with an extreme length from east to west of 490 miles, and an extreme breadth
from north to south of 185 miles; area, 50,704 square miles. The State may be
physically divided into the coast and swamp-land section, extending from 80 to
100 miles inland; the middle section, extending to the foot of the mountains; and
the mountain section, embracing the western part of the State. The first section
abounds in valuable timber, and includes the turpentine region. The country is
level, with many swamps and marshes, and the streams are sluggish and muddy.
Much of the land is sandy, but a large portion of this region is very fertile, the
swamps being generally so. Rice, cotton, tobacco, and maize flourish. The Great
Dismal Swamp extends north from Albemarle Sound into Virginia, covering an
area of about 150,000 acres. Between Albemarle and Pamlico Sounds is the Alli
gator or Little Dismal Swamp, which is about as large as the other. It is estimated
that the swamps of the State altogether cover 3,000,000 acres. Parts of the Little

56 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.
Dismal Swamp have been drained so as to make valuable rice and grain lands ; and
a considerable quantity of the swamp-land may be drained or reclaimed by embank
ment. The middle section is adapted to the production of the cereals, tobacco, and
cotton. It possesses great mineral wealth, and abounds in streams affording exten
sive water-power. About 100 miles from the coast the land begins to rise into
small hills, and a little farther westward is every variety of hills and dales consist
ent with a fertile country fit for cultivation. West of the Yadkin and Catawba
Rivers is an elevated region from 1,000 to 2,000 feet above the sea; and still be
yond this plateau the main range of the Appalachian Mountains traverses the State
from northeast to southwest, reaching here its greatest altitude. The Iron or Smoky
Mountains separate the State from Tennessee. Between these two ridges is a
plateau whose altitude ranges from 3,500 to 4,000 feet, being the highest plateau
of the same extent east of the Rocky Mountains. In the centre stands the sym
metrical forest-crowned summit of the Sugar Mountain (5,312 feet high), and on
its margin rises the Grandfather (5,897 feet), the highest summit of the Blue
Ridge, though inferior in altitude to the adjacent peaks of the Black Mountains.
The mountain-region presents much beautiful scenery, and affords rich grazing-
lands and abundant water-power. The coast-line is nearly 400 miles long, and
along its whole length are sandy, barren, desert islands, from -J- to 2 miles wide,
separated by numerous inlets, few of which are navigable. From these islands
shoals extend far into the sea, which render the navigation of the coast extremely
dangerous. Cape Hatteras forms the headland of the dangerous triangular island
beach which separates Pamlico Sound from the ocean. Narrow, shallow lagoons,
filled with constantly-shifting sand-bars, extend all along the coast south of Cape
Lookout between the mainland and the sand-islands. In the northeastern part of
the State, above Cape Lookout, are two extensive sounds, Pamlico and Albemarle,
and a smaller one, Currituck, which are cut off from the ocean by the islands or
sandbanks before referred to. Their waters are nearly fresh, and little affected by
tides. The rivers of North Carolina are numerous, but have shifting sand-bars at
their mouths, and rapids in their descent from the hilly regions. The principal are
the Cape Fear (300 miles long), the Roanoke (250 miles long), the Neuse, the Tar,
the Chowan, the Yadkin, and the Catawba. These all flow into the Atlantic.
From the western slope of the Blue Ridge flow New River, the Little Tennessee,
and several other streams, the waters of which, breaking through the Iron or
Smoky Mountains, join those of the Ohio and Mississippi.
The soil of North Carolina is of every variety, from the sands and marshes of the
coast to the rich alluvions of the river-bottoms. In the coast-regions the swamps
when drained are fertile, and rice grows well. The pine-region is barren for the
most part, while farther inland the soil improves, and is well adapted to wheat,
rye, barley, oats, and flax. Cotton is chiefly raised in the counties along the
southern border. Among the leading products are sweet-potatoes (of which North
Carolina produced more in 1870 than any other State), tobacco, and Indian-corn.
The forest-trees of the upland are oak, hickory, ash, walnut, and lime; in the low
country, pine ; and in the swamps, cedar, cypress, maple, oak, and poplar, with an
undergrowth of vines. Among the fruits are apples, pears, peaches, plums, cher
ries, grapes, and strawberries. Grapes are especially abundant in the coast-region.
The Scuppernong, which is a native of and peculiar to North Carolina, has at
tracted attention for its large size, luscious flavor, and excellent wine-making quali
ties. Cranberries are produced in abundance and are exported. The great char
acteristic product of the State, however, is spirits of turpentine, which is distilled
from the sap of the pitch-pine, vast forests of which cover the middle section of
the State.t In Albemarle and Pamlico Sounds immense quantities of herring and
shad are taken in season; and the estuaries and bays are favorite resorts of wild
fowl of every description. In the forest-country in the eastern part of the State,
quail, partridges, and other game-birds abound ; while in the mountainous region
of the western portion deer are plenty, and bears and other wild animals are
found. The climate of North Carolina is very similar to that of South Carolina (see page

THE MOUNTAIN-REGION.

¦>7

42), except that it is a trifle colder. In the low country, the atmosphere is warm
and humid, and malarial and bilious diseases prevail. In the mountain-region it is
cool, dry, and bracing, and remarkably healthy. The mean annual temperature at

Making Tar.

Raleigh, the capital of the State, is 60°. At Asheville, in the mountains, the mean
temperature of spring is 53.1° ; of summer, 71.70° ; of autumn, 54.8° ; and of win
ter, 38.2°. The rainfall in spring is 14.05 inches; in summer, 16.7; in autumn,
6.5 ; and in winter, 8.4. The winter climate of the mountain-section is peculiarly
adapted to that class of consumptives who find a cold, dry climate more beneficial
than a warm and moist one — to such, for instance, as go to Minnesota and Colorado.
It has not the intense coldness of these, and is less marked by sudden variations of
temperature. Asthmatics are also benefited by a residence here.
There are no places in North Carolina that have secured as yet any special rep
utation as '• winter resorts," but the mountain-region is much visited in spring and
fall by tourists on their way to or from more southern retreats, and further along
we shall mention a few localities whose sanitary advantages are gradually becom
ing known. The Mountain-Region.
Grand and impressive as is the mountain-region of South Carolina and Georgia,
already described, that of North Carolina is vastly superior in extent and variety,
and presents scenes of beauty and sublimity unsurpassed by anything east of the
Rocky Mountains. Here the great Appalachian system reaches its loftiest altitude :
here brawling mountain-streams dash down the precipitous mountain-sides in cas
cades and cataracts of incomparable splendor; and here the contrasted loveliness of
smiling valley and rugged peak is brought out with a fullness scarcely equaled else
where. The region consists of an elevated table-land, 250 miles long and about,
50 broad, encircled by two great mountain-chains (the Blue Ridge on the east and
the Great Smoky on the west), and traversed by cross-chains that run directly
across the country, and from which spurs of greater or lesser height lead off in all
directions. Of these transverse ranges there are four : the Black, the Balsam, the
Cullowhee, and the Nantahala. Between each lies a region of valleys, formed by
5

oS

HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.

the noble rivers and their minor tributaries, where a healthy atmosphere and pict
uresque surroundings are combined with a soil of singular fertility. The Blue
Ridge is the natural barrier, dividing the waters falling into the Atlantic from
those of the Mississippi, and its bold and beautiful heights are better known than
the grander steeps of the western chain. This western rampart, known as the Great
Smoky, comprises the groups of the Iron, the Unaka, and the Roan Mountains; and
from its massiveness of form and general elevation is the master-chain of the whole
Alleghany range. Though its highest summits are a few feet lower than the peaks

Mount Pisgah

of the Black Mountain, it presents a continuous series of lofty peaks which nearlv
a?^r^r! \ . ait'tud6> its culminating point, Clingman's Dome, rising to the height
Ol_o,bb0 teet. the most famous of the transverse ranges is that of the Black Moun
tain, a group of colossal heights, the dominating peak of which— Mount Mitchell
— is now known to be the loftiest summit east of the Mississippi. With its two
great branches it is over 20 miles long, and its rugged sides are covered with a wil-

THE MOUNTAIN-REGION.

59

derness of almost impenetrable forest. Above a certain elevation, no trees are
found save the balsam-fir, from the dark color of which the mountain takes its
name. Northward of the Black Mountain stand the two famous heights which
Prof. Guyot calls " the two great pillars on both sides of the North Gate to the high
mountain-region of North Carolina." These are the Grandfather Mountain in the
Blue Ridge, and Roan Mountain in the Smoky. Both of these peaks command a
wide view, but the Roan is especially remarkable for the extent of territory which
it overlooks, comprising the seven States of North Carolina, Virginia, Tennessee,
Kentucky, Alabama, Georgia, and South Carolina. Next to the Black, in the order
of transverse chains, comes the Balsam, which in length and general magnitude is
chief of the cross-ranges. It is 50 miles long, and its peaks average 6,000 feet in
height, while, like the Blue Ridge, it divides all waters and is pierced by none.
From its southern extremity two great spurs run out in a northerly direction; one
terminates in the Cold Mountain, which is over 6,000 feet high, and the other in
the beautiful peak of Pisgah, which is one of the most noted landmarks of the
region. " Among the mountains which, seen from Asheville, lie in blue waves
against the southern horizon, this commanding pyramid stands forth most promi
nently, and from its symmetrical outline, not less than from its eminence, attracts
the eye at once."
The key of the mountain-region, and converging point of all the roads west of
the Blue Ridge, is the town of Asheville, situated in the lovely valley of the French
Broad River, surrounded by an amphitheatre of hills, and commanding one of the
finest mountain-views in America. Just above its site the beautiful Swannanoa
unites with the French Broad, charming natural parks surround it, and within easy

Asheville.

excursion-distance is some of the noblest scenery in the State. The town itself is
adorned with many elegant private residences, the hotel accommodations are supe
rior, and there are good churches, schools, banks, and newspapers. "Asheville
Court-House stands nearly 2,250 feet above the sea; and the climate of all the
adjacent region is mild, dry, and full of salvation for consumptives. The hotels
and many of the cheery and comfortable farm-houses are in summer crowded with
visitors from the East and West ; and the local society is charmingly cordial and
agreeable." Asheville is also an excellent winter home for those who are benefited
by a cold, dry climate. A few miles from the town are some white sulphur springs,
from which a variety of lovely views may be had; and 9 miles north are the so-
called Million Springs, beautifully situated in a cave between two mountain-ranges,
where sulphur and chalybeate waters may be had in abundance.

60 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.
There are five routes by which Asheville may be reached, and as each of them
presents numerous attractions to tourists by the way, we shall describe them at
some length :
1st Route.— -From Salisbury, North Carolina, via Western North Carolina R. R.,
to Old Fort (114 miles), and thence 25 miles by stage. Morganton on this rail
way, between Salisbury and Old Fort, is a popular resort, and well worth the atten
tion of all lovers of mountain-scenery. It is a town of considerable age, and was
named in honor of General Morgan, of Revolutionary fame. It is situated on the
slopes of the Blue Ridge, 1,100 feet above the sea, and a very beautiful view may
be obtained from any eminence in the vicinity. About 15 miles west of Morganton
are the Piedmont Springs, whose waters contain sulphur and iron, and are said to
possess diuretic, tonic, and alterative properties. The springs have considerable
local reputation, but the remoteness of their location has prevented them from be
coming widely known. In this neighborhood the Hawk's Bill and Table Rock are
situated. The latter is a high, bleak rock rising out of the top of a mountain to
the height of over 200 feet. It can easily be ascended, and upon the summit there
is about an acre of rock with a smooth surface. About 25 miles from Morganton
is the grand Linnville Gorge, where the Linnville River bursts through the massive
barrier of the Linnville Mountains. The gorge is 15 miles in length, and the
heights which overshadow it are not less than 2,000 feet high. The river plunges
into its dark depths in a majestic fall, 100 feet high and 150 broad, and then rushes
forward over a bed of rock. Cliffs, worn by the ceaseless action of the water into
the most fantastic shapes, lean over it, detached masses of granite strew its chan
nel, and the tumult of its fretted waters only ceases when it pauses now and then
in crystal pools of placid gentleness. Beyond Old Fort the stage route penetrates
the Blue Ridge through the rugged but picturesque Swannanoa G.ip, and descends
gradually into the elevated basin in which Asheville lies. The latter part of the
route lies along the banks of the Swannanoa, loveliest of North Carolina rivers.
2:t! Route. — From Charlotte, North Carolina, via the Western Division of the
Carolina C antral R. R. to Shelby (54 miles), and thense by stage to Asheville (75
miles). Near Shelby are Wilson's Springs, somewhat notsd as a summer resort.
This route lies through the famous Hickory-Nnt Gap, the scenery of which has been
declared by some European travelers to be equal in beauty and grandeur to any
pass in the Alps. The entire length of the Gap is about 9 miles, the last five being
watered by the Rocky Broad River. The gateway of the gorge on the eastern
side is not more than half a mile wide, and from this point the road winds upward
along a narrow pass, hemmed in on all sides by stately heights. The loftiest bluff
is on the south side, and, though 1,500 feet high, is nearly perpendicular. Midway up
its front stands an isolated rock, of a circular form, and resembling the turret of
some stupendous castle. A stream of water tumbles over one portion of this im
mense cliff, and falls into an apparently inaccessible pool. From the summit of
the Gap (where stands " Sherrill's Hotel," an excellent house of entertainment)
there is a most impressive view in all directions.
3d Route. — By stage from Greenville, South Carolina (see page 54), via Saluda
Gap, Flat Rock, and Hendersonville, to Asheville (60 miles). Some of the attrac
tions of this route have already been described in the chapter on South Carolina,
but the entire road lies through the most enchanting and picturesque scenery.
Flat R»uk, once the most frequented of Carolina resorts, has been shorn of its for
mer glories, but the lovely valley still contains some noble mansions, surrounded by
gardens filled with rarest and costliest of shrubbery and flowers.
4th Route. — -By stage from Greenville, South Carolina (see page 54), via Jones's
Gap and Caesar's Head to Asheville (about 75 miles). Coesar's Head is a bold and
beautiful headland in South Carolina (see page 54), and will well repay a visit. Be
yond Caesar's Head the route passes near Cashier's Valley, famous for its salubrious
climate, and so accessible from South Carolina that many gentlemen from the low
country have erected summer residences there. It is more of a table-land than a
valley, lying on the side of the Blue Ridge, so near the summit that its elevation
above the sea cannot be less than 3,500 feet, and hemmed in on all sides by noble

THE MOUNTAIN-REGION

61

peaks, among which Chimney-Top stands forth conspicuously. On the south
western edge of the valley is Whiteside Mountain, which is in many respects the most
striking peak in North
Carolina. Rising to a
height of more than
5,000 feet, its south
eastern face is an im
mense precipice of white
rock, which, towering
up perpendicularly 1,800
feet, is fully 2 miles
long, and curved so as
to form part of the arc
of a circle. The face of
the precipice is not al
together smooth, as one
fancies when approach
ing it, but has been worn
by the elements into j
wildly picturesque es
carpments and cave-like
recesses. The largest
of these recesses is
known as the Devil's
Supreme Court-House ;
and according to Chero
kee tradition the prince
of the powers of dark
ness will on the day of
doom erect his throne
here and try all the
spirits who fall under
his jurisdiction. The
approach to it at present
is along a narrow and
dangerous ledge, upon
which only the most
cool-headed should ven
ture. The ascent to the summit of the mountain can be made partly on horseback
and presents no difficulties, and the view is of surpassing grandeur. " To the
northeast, as far as the eye can reach, rise a multitude of sharply-defined blue
and purple peaks, the valleys between them, vast and filled with frightful ravines,
seeming the merest gullies on the earth's surface. Farther off than this line of
peaks rise the dim outlines of the Balsam and Smoky ranges. In the distant south
west, looking across into Georgia, we can descry Mount Yonah, lonely and superb,
with a cloud-wreath about his brow ; 60 miles away, in South Carolina, a flash of
sunlight reveals the roofs of the little German settlement of Walhalla ; and on the
southeast, beyond the precipices and ragged projections, towers up Chimney-Top
Mountain, while the Hog-Back bends its ugly form against the sky, and Cold
Mountain rises on the left. Turning to the north we behold Yellow Mountain, with
its square sides, and Short-Off. Beyond and beyond, peaks and peaks, and ravines
and ravines! It is like looking down on the world from a balloon."
5th Route. — From the north, west, or southwest, Asheville may he reached via
East Tennessee & Virginia R. R. to Morristown, Tenn. ; thence via Cumberland
Gap & Charleston R. R. to Wolf Creek; and thence by stage (8 miles) to the
Warm Springs and up the valley of the French Broad. The Warm Springs and
the route thence to Asheville are described further along.
Having reached Asheville (see page 59), the tourist or invalid may spend days

The Swannanoa.

g2 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.
and weeks in visiting the many picturesque spots within an area of 35 or 40 miles,
or in hunting, fishing, or exploring the caves, mines, and Indian mounds The ex
cursion which above all others he should not fail to make is that down the French
Broad River, the supreme beauty of which has long been famous. Below Asheville

The French Broad.

the river flows through an ever-deepening gorge, narrow as a Western caiion and
inexpressibly grand, until it cuts its way through the Smoky Mountains, and reach
es Tennessee. For 36 miles its waters well deserve their musical Cherokee name
(Tahkeeostee, " the Racing River "), and the splendor of their ceaseless tumult fas
cinates both eye and ear. A fine highway follows its banks, and often trespasses
npon the stream, as it is crowded by the overhanging cliffs. About 35 miles from
Asheville, on the right of the road, is the famous rock, Lover's Leap ; and just below
it where 'the left bank widens out into a level plain, the Warm Sprinjrs nestle in a
beautiful orove of trees. These springs are among the most noted mineral waters
in the Soilhern States, and their virtues have been known for nearly a cen-

THE MOUNTAIN-REGION.

63

tury. An analysis of the water shows that it contains free carbonic acid, free sul
phuretted hydrogen, carbonic acid, and sulphuric acid, in combination with lime,
and a trace of magnesia. Though quite palatable as a beverage, it is taken chiefly
m the form of baths, for which there are excellent facilities, and is recommended
for dyspepsia, liver-complaint, diseases of the kidneys, rheumatism, rheumatic gout,
and chronic cutaneous diseases. The atmosphere is clear, cool, and invigorating,
and is regarded as particularly beneficial in all pulmonary diseases. The hotel is
spacious and comfortable, and is kept open winter and summer. (Terms, $2 a day,
or $40 a month.) Five miles below the springs, on the Tennessee boundary, the
road passes beneath the bold precipice of the Painted Rocks, a titanic mass over
200 feet high, whose face is marked with red paint, supposed to be Indian pictures.
Near by are the Chimneys, lofty cliffs, broken at their summits into detached piles
of rock bearing the likeness of colossal chimneys, a fancy greatly improved by the
fireplace-like recesses at their base. Mountain Island, 2 miles above the Springs, is a
hilly islet in the impetuous stream, its shores and slopes carpeted with evergreens,
and rich in all the variegated colors of the North Carolinian flora.
Among the mountain-ascents that may be readily made from Asheville, those of
Mount Pisgah and Mount Mitchell will best repay the trouble. Pisgah lies to the
south, and commands an extensive view over Tennessee, South Carolina, and Geor
gia, as well as over the greater part of Western North Carolina. The excursion to
Mount Mitchell, including the ascent of the peak and the return to Asheville, can be
made in three days, and, though arduous, is entirely free from danger. There are
three resting places en route: one at " Patton's," which nestles at the base of the
chain of peaks ; another at the " Mountain-House," 4 miles from the foot ; and an
other at the point where the Government once maintained an observatory, 3 miles
from the topmost height. — -- Js^J=fc^_ -=— --=- - _ ^&
The summit of Mount ;¦- . - -=¦;¦*
Mitchell is the highest in
the United States east of
the Mississippi (6,701 feet),
and affords the visitor a
view of unsurpassed extent
and grandeur. All West
ern Carolina lies spread
below him, together with
portions of Virginia, Ten
nessee, South Carolina,
and Georgia. He can
trace across the Old Do
minion the long, undulat
ing line of the Blue Ridge,
which, entering North Car
olina, passes under the
Black, and thence runs
southerly until it reaches
South Carolina, when it
turn3 to the west, and,
making a curve, joins the
Smoky near the northeast
corner of Georgia. Over
looking this range, from
his greater elevation, he
sees every height in that
part of North Carolina
which lies east of it. Far
away on the borders of the Laurel Kun- near AsheTille-
two Carolinas stands a misty mound, which is King's Mountain, of Revolutionary
fame; and from this point the eye sweeps over an illimitable expanse, returning

64 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.
to where the spurs of the Black cover the counties of Rutherford, Burke, and
McDowell, with a network of hills.
" There is a greater attraction in the unknown than in the known, however," says a
recent writer in Applbtons' Jourxal, " and the traveler who has followed the French
Broad to where it surges around Mountain Island and sweeps beneath Paint Rock;
who has stood on the hills of Asheville, and admired the gentle loveliness of the valleys
which encompass it ; who has tracked the Swannanoa to its birthplace in the ice-
cold springs of the Black Mountain, and climbed to the summit of that Appalachian
patriarch (Mount Mitchell)— it is natural that such a traveler, turning his back on
these places, made familiar by exploration, should look with longing eyes at the
dark chain of the Balsam, forming so lofty a harrier between himself and the still
wilder, still more beautiful region that lies farther westward. _ If he possesses
courage and resolution, if he does not shrink from trifling hardships, and if he can
endure cheerfully a few inconveniences, let him resolve to scale those heights, and
gaze at least upon all that lies beyond. There is very little difficulty in executing
such a resolution, and nobody who can appreciate the sublime in natural scenery,
or who likes the zest of adventure, will ever regret having executed it.
" As a first step, let him establish his headquarters at Brevard, a pleasant village of
Transylvania County, lying in the matchless valley of the Upper French Broad.
He will find here the most comfortable lodging and most admirable fare, together
with that cordial hospitality which is ever ready to oblige the wayfarer and stranger.
Should he possess the mountaineering spirit to which allusion has been made, he
need not fear that time will hang heavily on his hands. There are speckled trout in
the streams, there are deer in the coverts of the forests, and there are countless
places of picturesque interest, many of which are within the easy range of a day's
excursion. One of the most attractive of these excursions is to Dunn's Rock, a rugged
cliff on the eastern side of the valley, from the summit of which a most charming
view is to be had. Besides Dunn's Rock, there are many other eminences around
Brevard, which repay a hundred-fold the exertion of ascending them; while down
the glens of the hills impetuous streams come rushing in Undine-like cascades.
Such are the lovely Falls of Conestee, of Looking- Glass, and of Glen Cannon. Into
these enchanted recesses the lances of sunlight are scarcely able to pierce to find
the laughing water, so luxuriant is the forest-growth, which forms depths of
twilight obscurity where ferns and mosses and unnumbered bright, sweet flowers
flourish. "From Brevard the way to the Balsam is plain and short. Following the north
fork of the French Broad into what is called the Gloucester settlement, the traveler
will find himself at the foot of this range. Here he can readily secure a guide, and
make the ascent of the peaks which attain their highest elevation at this point.
Prof. Guyot has recorded his opinion that ' considering these great features of
physical structure (the Balsam heights), and the considerable elevation of the valleys
which form the base of these high chains, we may say that this vast cluster of
highlands between the French Broad and the Tuckaseege Rivers is the culminating
region of the great Appalachian system.' It is at least certain that their appearance
impresses one with a deeper sense of grandeur and sublimity than even the Black
Mountain. Immense ridges rise on all sides, lofty peaks lift their heads into the
dazzling regions of the upper air, escarpments of rugged rock contrast with the
verdure of the forest that clothes all other points, while trackless gorges and deep
chasms, where the roar of unseen cataracts alone breaks the silence of solitude, are
the characteristic features of the region. Leaving the domain of Gloucester, a
traveler of faint heart and wavering courage may be struck with dismay at the
wildness of the scenes into which he is led. The path is a trail, only visible to the
eyes of a mountaineer, which plunges down precipitous hill-sides, winds along dizzy
verges, where a single false step would send horse and rider crashing into the abyss
below, and mounts ascents so steep that the saddles threaten to slip back over the
straining animals, and a cautious rider will look well to his girths. Knob after knob
is climbed, and yet the dominating heights, as one catche3 glimpses of them now
and then, seem far away as ever. Nevertheless, it is evident that one's labor is not

MINNESOTA RESORTS. 65
in vain. The air grows more rarefied, the horizon expands, the world unrolls like
an azure scroll, and over it spreads the marvelous haze of distance.
" The tops of the Balsam peaks are generally bare of trees, and the Cherokees
believe that these open spaces are the footprints of the devil, made as he stepped
from mountain to mountain. They command singularly wild and impressive views.
including no less than five great mountain-ranges. Looking to the west, we see on
our left the Blue Ridge, on our right the Smoky, and in front the Cullowhee, with
the Nantahala lying cloud-like in the far distance. Countless intervening chains
spread over the vast scene, with graceful lines blending, and dominant points
ascending, forming a whole of wondrous harmony. Near at hand the heights of
the Balsam, clad in a rich plumage of forest, surrounds us in serried ranks — a suc
cession of magnificent peaks, infinitely diversified in shape, but nearly approaching
the same standard of elevation."

MINNESOTA RESORTS.
The State of Minnesota derives its name from its principal river, the Minnesota
(St. Peter's), which, in the Sioux or Dakota language, means "muddy water." It
is situated between lat. 43° 30' and 49° 24' north, and Ion. 89° 39' and 97° 5'
west, with an extreme length from north to south of 380 miles, and an extreme
breadth from east to west of 337 miles; area, 83,531 square miles. Lying nearly at
the centre of the continent, and occupying the most elevated plateau between the
Gulf of Mexico and Hudson's Bay, Minnesota forms the water-shed of the three
great river-systems of North America: that of the Mississippi, which flows south
to the Gulf of Mexico ; that of the St. Lawrence, which, connected with the great
chain of Northern lakes, has an easterly direction to the Atlantic Ocean ; and that
of the Red River of the North, flowing north to Lake Winnipeg, which has its
outlet in Hudson's Bay. A group of low sand-hills in the northeastern part of the
State, formed by huge deposits of drift overlying a local outcrop of the primary and
metamorphic rocks, and called Hauteurs des Terres (Heights of Land), forms the
dividing ridge between the Mississippi and Lake Superior. These Heights of Land
rise by scarcely perceptible slopes from the general level, in no instance higher than
1,680 feet above the sea, which is not more than 600 feet above the average elevation
of the country. These hills are commonly flat at the top, varying in height from
85 to 100 feet above the surrounding waters. Generally the surface of Minnesota
is an undulating plain, with an average elevation of nearly 1,000 feet above the sea,
and presents a succession of small rolling prairies or table-lands, studded with lakes
and groves, and alternating with belts of timber. Two-thirds of the surface slopes
southeast with the waters of the Mississippi, the northern part of the State being
nearly equally divided between the alluvial levels of the Red River valley on the
northwest and the broken highlands of the northeast, which are mainly drained by
the precipitous streams which flow into Lake Superior and the Rainy Lake Chain.
The navigable waters of the State have a total shore-line of 2,746 miles, and com
prise numerous rivers, of which the Minnesota, the Mississippi, the Red River of the
North, the St. Croix, and the St. Louis, are the most important. A characteristic
feature of the State is the number and beauty of its lakes, of which there are said
to be upward of 10,000. They are from 1 mile to 30 miles in diameter, and many
of them have an area of from 100 to 400 square miles. Their waters, generally
sweet and clear, abound in fish. The largest are the Lake of the Woods, Rainy,
Namekin, Bois Blanc, Vermilion, Swan, Sandy, Winibigoshish, Leech, and Mille
Lacs, in the north aDd northeast; Red Lake, in the northwest; Big Stone, Benton,
Sauk, and Swan, in the west and southwest.
The soil is fertile, two-thirds of the surface being well adapted to the cultivation
of all the cereals and roots of the temperate zone. It is composed generally of a
dark, calcareous loam, abounding in organic and saline ingredients, and is retentive
of moisture. The country, especially above latitude 46°, is well-timbered; pine-

66

HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.

forests extend far to the north, and birch, maple, aspen, ash, and elm abound. A
large forest of hard-wood varieties, known as the Big Woods, extends over the
central portion of the State west of the Mississippi, and covers an area of about 4,000
square miles. On the river bottoms are found basswood, elm, aspen, butternut,
ash, birch, maple, linden, balsam fir, and some oaks; and in the swamps tamarack,
cedar, and cypress. Among the wild animals are the elk, deer, antelope, bear, wolf,
wolverene, otter, muskrat, mink, martin, and raccoon. Of birds, there are the
golden and bald eagles, grouse, partridge, hawk, owl, quail, plover, lark, and many
smaller kinds. There are also the pelican, tern, sheldrake, teal, loon, wild-geese,
wild-ducks, and other water -fowl. The waters contain pike, pickerel, bass, white-
fish, muskelonge, catfish, trout, and other varieties of fish. To the sportsman
Minnesota offers greater attractions than any other State in the West.
The climate of Minnesota is very cold in the winter, but clear, dry, and equable,
and is recommended for those invalids (such as are in the incipient stages of
consumption for example) who are more benefited by a climate of this character
than by one which is warmer and more moist. It is a well-ascertained fact that
the dryness of the atmosphere is an even more important factor in the prevention
and cure of consumption than its warmth ; and, upon not a few consumptives, a
climate which is warm without being dry has a peculiarly debilitating and unwhole
some effect. For this class it is claimed that Minnnesota presents greater advan
tages than any other locality in America. Though its winters are long, and the
cold intense and continuous, yet the dryness of the atmosphere and the slight
diurnal variations of temperature render the cold far less oppressive than in the
Eastern Atlantic States, where the moist air and the rasping winds seem to tear
weak lungs to pieces. There are few days of a Minnesota winter during which an
invalid, if properly clad, cannot go out-of-doors for several hours at least ; and the
bracing air almost always has a decidedly tonic and exhilarating effect. The cold in
winter and the heat in summer, though extreme, are subject to but slight variations
in short periods, and all the seasons are remarkably free from those sudden changes
that are so injurious to persons in delicate health. The following summary of
meteorological observations, made at St. Paul during 1874, is reported by the United
States Signal Bureau :

January 
February 
March 
April 
May  gOO
June 
July 
August 
September 
October 
November 
December 

Mean,

THERMOMETER.

Mean
Barometer.
Total Rainfall,
Prevailing Wind.
Maximum.
Mini iimn.
Mean.
43.00
-23.00
13. 85
30.073
0.49
36.00
-18.00
14.40
30.082
1.07
46. CO
-5.00
23.66
30.030
2.24
71.00
7.00
37.52
30.003
0.95
North.
94.00
31.00
62.24
29.860
1.65
North.
94.00
42.00
68.70
29.797
11.67
99.00
53.00
74.72
29.842
1.94
91.00
54.00
70.54
29.892
3.90
93.00
37.00
60.95
29.908
5.76
74.00
21.00
41.36
30.003
3.21
72.00
-8.00
28.72
29.951
1.90
48.00
-20.00
18.81
30.848
0.72
Northwest.
71.67
14.25
43.62
30.490
35.50
Southeast.
These are the facts on which are based Minnesota's claims as a resort for
invalids; and they are sustained by the record of vital statistics. While the rate of
mortality from consumption is 1 in 254 in Massachusetts, 1 in 473 in New York,
and 1 in 757 in Virginia, in Minnesota it is only 1 in 1,139. It is declared more-
ever,_on high authority, that there is no such thing as "Minnesota consumption,"
that is, consumption which has originated in the State itself. The recorded deaths
from that disease are, in nearly every case, those of invalids from other States in
whom the disease had progressed too far for cure. It should be added, however
ST. PAUL.

67

that the climate of Minnesota is thought to be unfavorable to sufferers from bron
chitis or catarrh; and that of all those who have hitherto visited Minnesota with
consumption, only 1 in 15 has recovered. Dr. Joseph W. Howe, an authority
on the subject, says: '• The cold, clear air of the State is undoubtedly beneficial to
certain cases of consumption. None, however, should attempt the journey whose
lungs are seriously diseased, or who have not the strength to take daily exercise in
the open air. It is the open-air life after all that does the work of curing, and it is,
therefore, little less than suioide for invalids to seek a home where they are com
pelled to shut themselves in-doors day after day."
Of the health resorts of Minnesota the most frequented are St. Paul, Minneapolis,
and Winona ; but there is really an unlimited range of choice, as any of the towns
of the central, southern, or eastern portions of the State possess the advantages of
climate already enumerated. Care must be taken, of course, that the local sani
tary conditions are favorable, and a sheltered location is naturally best ; but the
visitor can hardly make a mistake in selecting any one of the more easily accessi
ble towns. St. Paul.
How to reach. — From Chicago, St. Paul may be reached via Chicago & North
western R. R. (distance, 409 miles ; fare, $15.25) ; or via Chicago, Milwaukee & St.
Paul R. R. (distance, 411 miles ; fare, ($15.25. From St. Louis it may be reached
eia steamer up the Mississippi River. In the summer from Buffalo by steamer on
Lakes Erie, Huron, and Superior, to Duluth ; thence via Lake Superior & Missis
sippi R. R. to St. Paul (155 miles). During the season this last is a very pleasant
route from the East.
Hotels and Boarding-Houses. — The leading hotels are the Metropolitan ($3 a day),
in Third Street ; the Merchants' Hotel ($3.00 a day), near the centre of the busi
ness quarter ; and the Park Place, which is a pleasant family hotel, situated on the
summit of a gentle hill and surrounded by trees. There are several smaller hotels,
and numerous excellent boarding-houses where board may be had at from $5 to
$10 a week. In the summer, the suburbs are much cooler than the city, but in
winter the invalid had better seek a residence in the city.
Location, Climate, and History. — St. Paul, the capital of Minnesota, is a beautiful
city of about 36,000 inhabitants, situated at the head of navigation on the Missis
sippi River, 2,200 miles from its mouth. It was formerly confined to the left bank,
the site embracing four distinct terraces, forming a natural amphitheatre with a

St. Paul Minnesota.
southern exposure, and conforming to the curve of the river. The city is built prin
cipally upon the second and third terraces, which widen into level, semicircular
plains, the last, about 90 feet above the river, being underlaid with a stratum of

68 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.
blue limestone from 12 to 20 feet thick, of which many of the buildings are con
structed. The original town is regularly laid out, but the newer portions are irreg
ular. The streets are well graded and partially paved, are lighted with gas, and a
system of sewerage is in progress. The water-works are supplied from Lake Pha-
lon, 3 miles distant ; and two lines of street-railway are in operation. — The climate
of St. Paul has already been indicated in our general remarks on that of the State
at large. The meteorological table on page 66 was compiled from observations
made here. The city is a peculiarly favorable winter residence for consumptives
because of its sheltered situation and the dryness of its soil. Tables of mortality
show St. Paul to be one of the healthiest cities in the United States. — The first re
corded visit to the site of St. Paul was made by Father Hennepin, a Jesuit mission
ary, in 1680. Eighty-six years afterward, Jonathan Carver came there and made a
treaty with the Nandowessie Indians, in what is now known as Carver's Cave.
The first treaty of the United States with the Sioux, throwing their lands open to
settlement, was made in 1837, and the first claim was entered by Pierre Parent, a
Canadian voyageur, who sold it in 1839 for $30. It is the present site of the prin
cipal part the city. The first building was erected in 1838, and for several years
thereafter it was simply an Indian trading-post. It was laid out into village streets
in 1849, and a city government was obtained in 1854, when the place contained
about 3,000 inhabitants. It derives its name from that of a log chapel dedicated
to St. Paul by a Jesuit missionary in 1841.
Places of Interest. — The principal public buildings in the city are the State Capitol,
a plain brick structure situated on high ground, and occupying an entire square ;
and the United States Custom-House, which also contains the Post-Office. The
principal place of amusement is the Opera-House in Wabashaw Street, near
Third, a large and handsome building, with a fine auditorium seating about 1,200
persons. There are about 40 churches of all denominations in the city, some of
them large and handsomely finished. There are 4 public and as many private cir
culating libraries, the former including the State Law Library, and those of the
Historical Society and Academy of Sciences, comprising together about 24,000 vol
umes. The Academy of Science also contains 126,000 specimens in natural history.
The public and private schools are noted for their excellence, the latter including
several female seminaries of a high grade. There is a free hospital, managed by
the Sisters of St. Joseph, and a Protestant and a Roman Catholic orphan asylum.
Carver's Cave is a great natural curiosity, near the river, in Dayton's Bluff, on the
east side of the city. It was named after Jonathan Carver; who, on May 1, 1767,
made a treaty with the Indians, by which they ceded him a large tract of land.
There is a lake in the cave, which may be crossed in a boat. Fountain Cave, about
2 miles above the city, was apparently hollowed out of the rock by a stream which
flows through it. It contains several chambers, the largest being 100 feet long, 25
wide, and 20 high ; and it has been explored for 1,000 feet without the termination
being reached.
There are some beautiful drives in and around St. Paul, and many places in the
neighborhood of the city which can be reached either by carriage or by rail. Of
these the most popular is White Bear Lake, 12 miles distant, on the Lake Superior
& Mississippi R. R. It is about 9 miles in circumference, with picturesque shores
and an island in its centre. The lake affords excellent boating, fishing, and bathing.
Bald-Eagle Lake, 2J miles beyond White Bear Lake, is noted for its fishing and pict
uresque scenery, and is a popular resort for picnic-parties. Minnehaha Falls, im
mortalized by Longfellow, are reached by a delightful drive past Fort Snelling.
The Falls are picturesquely situated, but they hardly merit the prominence that Mr.
Longfellow's poem has obtained for them. Lake Como is reached by a pleasant
drive of 2| miles over a good road. The boating and bathing here are excellent,
and two hotels on the shore are well patronized during the summer.
Minneapolis and St. Anthony.
The twin city of Minneapolis and St. Anthony is situated on both sides of the
Mississippi River, 10 miles above St. Paul, with which it is connected by three lines

WINONA.— RED WING AND FRONTENAC. 69
of railway. It is built ou a broad esplanade overlooking the famous Falls of St.
Anthony and the river, which is bordered at various points by picturesque bluffs.
The city is regularly laid out, with avenues running east and west, and streets cross
ing them north and south. They are generally 80 feet wide, with 20 feet sidewalks,
and two rows of trees on each side. There are many substantial business blocks
and elegant residences. The Court-House, City Hall, Academy of Music, Opera-
House, and Athenasum, are noticeable structures ; as are also the Nicollet House and
the First National Hotel. The Athenseum Library contains 4,000 volumes, and
that of the University of Minnesota about 2,500. Besides the University, there are
several other important educational institutions, and the public schools are numer
ous and good. The number of churches is 48, including all the denominations, and
some of the church-edifices are elegant and imposing. The city is supplied with
water by powerful works, the streets are lighted with gas, and a system of sewer
age is in process of construction. Its situation being less protected than that of St.
Paul, it is perhaps less desirable as a winter residence for invalids, but it is never
theless much frequented.
A large part of the business prosperity of Minneapolis and St. Anthony is owing
to the Falls of St. Anthony, which afford abundant water-power for manufacturing
purposes. The fall is 18 feet perpendicular, with a rapid descent of 50 feet within
a mile. The rapids above the cataract are very fine, in fact much finer than the
fall itself, the picturesqueness of which has been destroyed by the wooden " cur
tain " erected to prevent the wearing away of the ledge. The falls can be seen
with about equal advantage from either shore, but the best view is from the centre
of the suspension-bridge which spans the river above the fall. The country around
Minneapolis is remarkable for its beauty. Numerous lakes, of which the chief are
Lakes Calhoun, Harriet, and Cedar, dot the landscape, particularly to the west
ward, and cultivated prairies roll off in every direction. The celebrated Minne
haha Falls are only 3 miles below, and the Silver Cascade and Bridal Veil Falls
are within easy driving distance. Lake Minnetonka is 12 miles westward, and
affords great attractions to the pleasure-seeker or the sportsman. Other attractive
resorts render the neighborhood an especially alluring one for residents and tourists.
Winona.
Winona is a thriving little city of about 8,000 inhabitants, situated on the Missis
sippi 105 miles below St. Paul by river, and 215 miles by rail. It is built on a spa
cious plain, commanding a fine view of the river for several miles, and contains the
State Normal School, several fine churches, and numbers of handsome stores and
private residences. Being somewhat sheltered by the high bluffs which line the
river above and below, it is thought to offer conditions favorable to consumptives
and other invalids. About 20 miles below Winona is Trempeleau Island (some
times called Mountain Island), a rocky island, 300 to 500 feet in height, and one of
the most noted landmarks on the Upper Mississippi. About 12 miles above is the
famous Chimney Rock. Red Wing and Frontenao.
These lively little towns are situated on Lake Pepin, as it is called, respectively
40 and 51 miles below St. Paul. Lake Pepin is simply an expansion of the Missis
sippi, about 30 miles long and 3 miles in average width, and is considered by many
the most beautiful portion of the river. The bluffs on either side present peculiar
characteristics, which are found in such perfection nowhere else : grim castles seem
only to want sentries to be complete, and all the fantastic forms into which the
action of the weather can transform limestone cliffs are to be seen. For miles the
bluffs are indented with huge natural amphitheatres, the land rising to the level of
the projecting heights, which form the portals, the curve being apparently as true
as that of any auditorium ever built. The forests reach to the river-bank, and the
water is so beautifully clear that fish may be seen many feet below the surface.
Red Wing lies at the head of the lake, on a broad, level plain, extending to the foot
of some majestic bluffs, and is a well-built town of about 5,000 inhabitants. It is

70 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.
a favorite summer resort, and, being thoroughly protected by ^.J^f **¦? *
desirable winter-residence. The Chicago and St. Paul branch of the Milwaukee

Lake Pepin.
& St. Paul R. R. connects Red Wing with St. Paul. Frontenac lies in the centre
of the lake-region, and is a favorite resort in summer on account of its fine scenery,
and the hunting, bathing, fishing, and sailing, which it affords. Besides the sport
furnished by Lake Pepin, there are fine trout-fishing in the streams and deer-hunting
in the woods of Wisconsin, on the opposite side of the river, while prairie-chickens
are found in abundance in the country back of the village. Frontenac offers the
same advantages as a winter-residence as are possessed by Red Wing.
Faribault.
Faribault lies about 46 miles south of St. Paul, on the Iowa and Minnesota
division of the Chicago, Milwaukee, & St. Paul R. R. It is situated at the con
fluence of the Cannon and Straight Rivers, and is one of the most populous and
thriving interior towns in the State. In 1853 it was the site of Alexander Fari
bault's trading-post; since 1857 its growth has been rapid, and the present popula
tion is estimated at 5,000. It is the seat of the State Asylum for the deaf, dumb,
and blind, and of an Episcopal academy, and contains several other schools, six or

ARKANSAS HOT SPRINGS. 71
eight churches, two weekly newspapers, two national banks, and several flour-mills,
saw- mills, founderies, etc. The National and the Barron House are the leading
hotels. For invalids, Faribault possesses all the characteristic advantages of the
Minnesota climate.

ARKANSAS HOT SPRINGS.
How to reach. — The Hot Springs are reached from St. Louis via the St. Louis,
Iron Mountain & Southern R. R. to Malvern (388 miles from St. Louis, and 42 from
Little Rock), and thence by a stage-ride of 18 miles. A branch railroad from
Malvern to the Springs will speedily he completed, and the entire journey made by
cars. Hotels and Boarding-Honses. — There are about a dozen hotels in and near the town
of Hot Springs, charging from $2.50 to $4 a day, and a great number of boarding-
houses, where board may be had at from $8 to $20 a week. The entire town,
indeed, is simply an appendage to the sanitarium, and the visitor usually has his
choice of accommodations, livery, and anything that the town contains.
Hot Springs, a town and capital of Garland County, Arkansas, is situated about
45 miles southwest of Little Rock, and 6 miles north of the Washita River, in a
wild and picturesque mountain-region. It is built principally in the narrow valley
of Hot Spring Creek, running north and south between the Ozark Mountains, and
contains, besides the hotels, 3 schools, 5 churches, 2 weekly newspapers, and a per
manent population of about 1,500. The town itself and the surrounding hill-sides
are embowered in trees, and present a very picturesque and inviting appearance.
The valley in which the town is situated is about a mile and a half long, and very
narrow, and has an elevation of about 1,500 feet above the sea. In the middle of
the day the sunbeams are like a blaze, but an almost constant cool and refreshing
breeze renders the atmosphere cool and agreeable even in summer. The disappear
ance of the sun behind the mountain-tops is followed by a lovely twilight, such as
is found in but few other places. The springs, 57 in number, issue from the west
ern slope of the Hot-Spring Mountain, which lies on the east side of the valley.
They vary in temperature from 93° to 160° Fahr., and discharge into the creek up
ward of 500,000 gallons of water every 24 hours — about 350 gallons per minute.
Fifty-four of the springs have been tested in temperature, but there are many under
the roads and ledges that cannot be tested without too great labor. The largest
spring discharges 60 gallons a minute at a temperature of 150°, which will cook eggs
in 15 minutes. The water of the springs is very clear, pure, transparent, and almost
tasteless, and does not deposit sediment by standing. It is taken both internally
and externally, and a great number of bathing-houses have been constructed for
the use of invalids. The vapor baths stand at 112° ; the douche, a spirit-bath, at
120° ; and the saving bath at 116°. The amount of hot water discharged into the
creek renders it sufficiently warm for bathing purposes in midwinter. When taken
internally, the waters of the springs have an aperient and tonic effect, are rapidly
absorbed into the circulatory system, and are beneficial in nearly all diseases of the
blood. Taken both internally and in the form of baths, they have performed many
wonderful cures of rheumatism, rheumatic gout, stiffness of the joints, mercurial
diseases (arising from the effects of mercury in the system), malarial fevers, scrof
ula, and diseases of the skin. Of the thousands suffering from these ills who flock
to the Hot Springs yearly, many recover entirely, while those who do not achieve
a cure experience great relief.
A heavy fog hangs continually over the springs and upon the sides of the moun
tains, giving the neighborhood the appearance, at a little distance, of a number of
furnaces in active operation. Near the edges of the springs is found, luxuriantly
growing, a species of green algce, which seems to delight in these natural hot-beds;
while the mountain-slopes are covered with luxuriant vines, whose growth is per
petually stimulated by the condensation of the vapor. The air is warm and very

72 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.
moist, and for this reason the valley should be shunned by consumptives, and all who
are suffering from pulmonary or throat diseases.
The United States Government has a disputed claim to the " Hot Springs reser
vation," and it is hoped and expected that, should it succeed in getting possession,
it will make the valley a great sanitary resort free to the people.

COLORADO RESORTS.
Colorado, the most recently admitted among the States of the Union, is situ
ated between lat. 37° and 41° north, and Ion. 102° and 109° west, forming a nearly
perfect parallelogram, with an average length east and west of 380 miles, and an
average breadth north and south of 280 miles ; area, 104,500 square miles. It has
three great natural divisions : the mountain-range (including the park system), the
foot-hills, and the plains. The mountain-ranges are so numerous, and cover such a
large portion of the surface, that Colorado has been aptly called "the Switzerland
of America." The State is intersected north and south, near the centre, by the
Rocky Mountains, which here attain their greatest elevation; 200 peaks nearly
13,000 feet high, and about 25 of 14,000 feet and over, being visible from Mount
Lincoln. Between latitude 38° and 40° this chain is about 120 miles broad, con
sisting of three parallel ranges running nearly northwest. The east one, called the
Front, or Colorado range, as seen from Denver, appears to rise abruptly from the
plain, stretching with snow-capped summits from Pike's Peak on the south to a
group 20 mile3 north of Long's Peak, a distance of 120 miles. Six of its peaks are
from 14,000 to 14,200 feet above the sea, viz., Long's Peak, Mount Torrey, Gray's
Peak, Mount Rosa, Mount Evans, and Pike's Peak. West of this range lie the
parks, separated from each other by comparatively low or broken cross-ridges; and
parallel with it, and about 40 miles farther wast, is the Park Range, forming the
western boundary of North, Middle, and South parks. Its highest points are in
the Mount Lincoln group, near the dividing ridre batwaen South and Middle parks ;
20 peaks exceeding 13,000 feet in height, while Maunt Lincoln and Quandary Peak
risa above 14,000 feet. West of the south part of the Park range is the Arkansas
valley, and beyond this is the National Rmje, also called the Sawatch range, or
Sierra Madre, dividing through nearly its whole extent the waters of the Atlantic
from those of the Pacific. It is pxrallel with and about 16 miles west of the Park
range, terminating some forty miles northwest of Mount Lincoln, in the Mount of
the Holy Cross, about 13,400 feet high. The highest part of this range commences
in the Grand Mountain (14,200 feet high), 20 miles south of the Holy Cross, whence
for 50 miles farther south the whole range is 13,000 feet high, with 10 peaks rising
to a height of from 14,000 to 14.400 feet. The principal summits are Mounts El
bert, La Plata, Harvard, and Yale. West of the National range, and connected
with it, are the Elk Mountains, lying between the Grand River on the north and
the Gunnison on the south. The most elevated peaks form a ridge about 30 miles
long, nearly parallel with the National range, and 35 miles west of it. West of
this group there are no high mountains, the ridges changing within 20 miles to pla
teaus, which fall off to the Colorado River. On the east side of the mountains,
ami parallel thereto, extending from the Black Hills on the north to the Wet
Mountains on the south, are the foot-hills, having an average elevation of 8,000 feet.
The plains constitute the geographical division of Colorado east of the mountain-
belt, and embrace more than one-third of the entire territory. The surface of this
section is not one continuous level, but a series of valleys separated by ridges and
traversed by innumerable water-courses. The average elevation above tide-water
is 6,000 feet. The most prominent feature of this vast plateau is the " divide " an
elevation reaching a height of 7,500 feet above the sea-level, which separates the
waters of the South Platte and the Arkansas, and supplies many of their affluents.
The most remarkable physical characteristic of Colorado is its system of great

COLORADO RESORTS.

73

Natural Parks, which consist of extensive irregular plateaus or basins, shut in on
all sides by lofty mountain- ranges. The surface of these plateaus is diversified by
numerous hills or ridges, and valleys, containing streams which form the head
waters of all the great rivers that rise in Colorado. These valleys are clothed with
luxuriant grasses and flowering plants of various species, and possess an extremely
fertile soil. The hills are covered with dense forests of pine, abounding in game,
such as the bear, elk, and deer. The beds of the streams furnish many varieties of
minerals and fossils, and afford a remarkable field for geological investigations.
Mineral springs, with waters possessing rare medicinal properties, are numerous,
while salt and coal beds seem to underlie the entire surface. The four principal
parks are in the central portion of the State, and constitute the greater part of a

Buttresses of Marble Canon on the Colorado Eiver.
belt running north and south between Ion. 105° and 106°. They will be described

in detail further on.
6

The river-system of Colorado embraces the principal tributa-

74

HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.

ries of the Rio Colorado, Rio Grande, Arkansas, Platte, and Smoky Hill and Re
publican forks of the Kansas. The Arkansas and the South Fork of the Platte
drain the eastern part ; the Bear River, the Bunkara, and the Gunnison, flow from
the western slopes of the Rocky Mountains ; the Rio Grande rises in the southern
part of the State, and flows southward into the Gulf of Mexico. The Grand and
Green Rivers, and nearly all the streams which unite to form the Colorado, flow
through mountain-chasms of unknown depth; and the Colorado itself flows for
hundreds of miles through a series of stupendous gorges or cafions which are among
the wonders of the West.
About one-third of Colorado is good agricultural land. In the plains and the
parks the soil of the valleys is peculiarly fertile, and produces in abundance the
hardier cereals and vegetables. The arid sands of the plains have been proved to
be merely surface deposits, covering a soil of remarkable fertility when moistened.
The necessary moisture is supplied by irrigating canals, which have already been
constructed to a great extent. Vegetables reach an enormous size, and fruits of all
kinds grow with remarkable luxuriance. Mining, however, is the principal indus
try, and the mineral deposits are among the richest in America. The principal
varieties of timber are pine, hemlock, spruce, cedar, fir, cottonwood, box-elder, and
quaking aspen. The sides of the mountain below the timber-line and the foot-hills
are covered with forests of pine, larch, and aspen, which afford valuable timber and
fuel. The wild animals are the bear, cougar, wolf, buffalo, elk, deer, antelope, moun
tain-sheep, lynx, wild-cat, badger, hare, fox, mink, beaver, and prairie-dog, the last
resembling the fox-squirrel. Of game-birds there are the wild turkey, mountain-
grouse, sage-hen, prairie-chicken, ducks, geese, swans, ptarmigan, etc.
The climate of Colorado is remarkably equable and healthy. The winters are
mild, the days resembling those of a northern summer ; and the summers are cool
and bracing. Hot, sultry nights are unknown in summer, and in winter they are
generally very cold. On the plains the temperature averages from 50° to 55°. At
Denver during 1 870 the mean temperature for each month and the amount of rain
and melted snow were as follows:

January. . . .
February . .
March 
April 
May 
June 
July 
August 
September.
Octoher.. . .
Novemher. .
December..

Tear.

TEMPERATURE.

60"646780
86 949897898368
60

5"1
-8 16
4048 53
45 40
27 20
-18

29.4°35.6 32.7
48.156.1 68.274.264 8
60.1 47.8
41.823

48.5

Rain and Melted
Snow, Inches.

1.15 1.70 .70
2.80 .35 .52.51 .12
2.85 .68 .54
.73

12.65

The average temperature for 1871 was 54.1°; rainfall, 12.35 inches. For 1872 the
average temperature was 49.8°; rainfall, 18.77 inches. Among the foot-hills the
average temperature is from 45° to 50° ; in the mountains it is from 40° to 45°. On
the summits of the mountain-ranges, and in the highest parks, the cold is often ex
treme; but in the mountain-valleys and foot-hills the thermometer seldom falls
below zero, and in midwinter there is much delightful weather. The greatest ex
tremes of cold and the most severe storms occur in November and December. In
the mountains the greatest fall of snow occurs in September, October, and April ;
except on and near the summits, where the fall is considerable, it does not remain
long on the ground. On the plains in the latitude of Denver, the fall of snow never
exceeds 10 or 12 inches, and seldom remains longer than 24 hours. In the southern
portion of the plains there is little snow, and the winters are extremely mild.
There is no rainy season in Colorado. On the plains the rain generally falls in the

DENVER.— COLORADO SPRINGS AND VICINITY. 75
spring and early summer, scarcely any falling in autumn or winter. In the moun
tains rains are frequent in the summer and autumn, but rain-storms of long dura
tion are unknown. Heavy wind-storms are common in all parts of the State. The
extreme rarity of cloudy weather and of mists and fogs is remarkable. The atmos
phere is wonderfully clear and invigorating, and remarkably free from humidity.
These characteristics of climate, together with the great altitude (4,000 to 10,000
feet), and the beautiful scenery, have made Colorado a popular resort for persons
afflicted with throat and lung diseases. Consumptives who go there during the
earlier stages of the disease are always benefited, and usually cured; but when
haemorrhages have supervened, the extreme thinness and dryness of the atmosphere
are likely to aggravate them. Asthmatics can live comfortably in any part of the
State ; and rheumatism and gout are materially alleviated. Hay fever also is in
variably cured. Denver.
Denver, the capital and largest city of Colorado, is situated on the south bank
of the South Platte River, at the junction of Cherry Creek, 15 miles from the east
ern base of the Rocky Mountains, 922 miles from St. Louis via the Missouri
Pacific and Kansas Pacific R. R., and 991 miles via the Atchison, Topeka &
Santa F6 R. R., via Pueblo and Colorado Springs. It occupies a series of plateaus,
facing the mountains, and commanding a grand and beautiful view. Through
the clear mountain atmosphere may be seen Pike's and Long's Peaks, and the
snow-capped range extending more than 200 miles, its rich purple streaked with
dazzling white, and here and there draped in soft, transparent haze. The city
is the commercial centre of Colorado, and is compactly built, chiefly of brick
manufactured in the vicinity. Its trade is very large, and five railroads radiate
from it, which, with their stage connections, afford access to all parts of the State.
There are upward of 30 hotels, numerous handsome commercial buildings, a United
States Branch Mint, several fine churches and school-houses, a theatre, large manu
factories and breweries, and some elegant private residences. The population of the
city is estimated at 20,000, and it is annually visited by large numbers of tourists.
The details as to its climate are given on page 74. During the summer a residence
in the suburbs is preferable to one in the city ; but during the winter the invalid
will find himself most comfortable in town. Whatever places in Colorado the tour
ist may wish to visit, Denver will be his natural starting-point.
Colorado Springs and Vicinity.
Colorado Springs (76 miles from Denver via the Denver & Rio Grande Narrow-
Gauge R. R.) is an important centre for the tourist, being situated in close prox
imity to various points of interest ; hut its name is misleading, the Springs being 5
miles distant and bearing another name. Colorado Springs is a flourishing village,
situated on the plains, with a fine view of the mountains, and with pleasantly-
shaded streets. The following table of distances will show how conveniently it is
situated for visitors bent on sight-seeing : To Manitou Springs, 5 miles ; to Gar
den of the Gods, 4 miles ; to Glen Eyrie, 5 miles ; to Monument Park, 8 miles ; to
Cheyenne Caiion, 5 miles; and to the summit of Pike's Peak, 16 miles. Guides
are at hand for the more distant points, and horses, etc., are easily procured.
The Maniton Springs are 5 miles from Colorado Springs, with which they connect
by stages on the arrival of every train, and are so much resorted to as to be known
as the " Saratoga of Colorado." They are situated among the foot-hills at the base
of Pike's Peak, on the banks of the beautiful Fontaine Creek. The waters contain
sulphur, soda, and iron, and are recommended for their tonic effects in all diseases
of which general debility is a feature. Asthmatics and consumptives are generally
benefited by a residence at Manitou ; the former, always. There are several ho
tels, of which the most prominent is the Manitou House ; and the adjacent grounds
are beautifully laid out and adorned. Within easy walking-distance of the hotel is
the picturesque and romantic Ute Pass, through which the road runs to South Park.
A short distance above the mouth of the Pass are Ute Falls, where the creek de-

76

HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.

scends in an unbroken sheet over a precipice 50 feet high. The road runs close to
the edge of this precipice, while on the other hand the rocks tower above to an
immense height. Manitou is on the road to Pike's Peak, the summit of which is
only 11 miles distant, and may be climbed on horseback. This peak stands on the
outer edge of the great mountain-range, and the view from its summit is magnifi
cent, embracing many thousand square miles of mountain and plain. Here is a
station of the Weather-Signal Bureau, which is occupied winter and summer.
Garden of the Gods is the fanciful title of a little mountain-valley lying 4 miles
northwest of Colorado Springs. The road enters it through the " Beautiful Gate,"
a narrow passage-way between two towering but narrow ledges of cliffs, which is
still further narrowed by a rock-pillar, 30 feet high, standing nearly in the centre.
The Garden consists
of a tract of land less
than 500 acres in ex
tent, hemmed in by
mountains on the west
and north, bordered
by ravines on the
south, and by Old Red
sandstone-cliffs on the
east, which shut it in
entirely from the
plains. Its features
are a number of iso
lated rocks, upheaved
into perpendicular po
sitions, some of them
rising to a height of
350 feet. The rocks
are mainly of a very
soft, brilliantly - red
sandstone, although
several ridges of cliffs
are of a white sandstone. The foot-hills in the vicinity are many of them capped by
similar upheavals, while all about the main cliff in the valley are numerous separate,
spire-like columns. At the entrance to Glen Eyrie (1 mile ,from the Garden, and 5
miles from Colorado Springs) are similar formations, one of which stands like an
immense tower, several hundred feet high, and not more than 7 or 8 feet in thick
ness. Glen Eyrie is a most picturesque mountain-gorge, closed in on either hand
by frowning cliffs, and with a purling mountain-brook traversing it from end to end.
Within it is the elegant summar-villa of General Palmer, President of the Denver
& Rio Grande R. R., and the natural attractions of the place have been enhanced
by art. Up the rugged Queen's Caiion is the Devil's Punch-Bowl, and a succession
of picturesque rapids and cascades. The road to the Glen from Colorado Springs
offers a succession of noble views.
Cheyenne Cation, 5 miles from Colorado Springs, is a sequestered mountain-
gorge, in which are some striking rock-formations and picturesque cascades. A tor
tuous trail leads from the mouth of the cation in 3 miles to the first fall, which is
30 feet high, and extremely fine. From the ledge above the fall there is a view of
a succession of falls, 6 in all, rising one above another at almost regular intervals,
the remotest and highest being several miles away.
monument Park, perhaps the most visited spot in Colorado, is 8 miles from Colo
rado Springs, and still nearer to Monument, a station on the railway above the
Springs. The Park is very striking. " It is filled with fantastic groups of eroded
sandstone, perhaps the most unique in the Western country, where there are so
many evidences of Nature's curious whims. If one should imagine a great number
of gigantic sugar-loaves, quite irregular in shape, but all showing the tapering form,
varying in height from 6 feet to nearly 50, with each loaf capped by a dark, flat

Eroded Sandstones, Monument Park.

PUEBLO AND THE BOILING SPRINGS. 77
stone, not unlike in shape to a college-student's hat, ho would have a very clear
idea of the columns in Monument Park. They are for the most part ranged along
the low hills on each side of the park, which is probably a mile wide, hut here and
there one stands out in the open plain. On one or two little knolls, apart from the
hills, numbers of these columns are grouped, producing the exact effect of ceme
teries with their white-marble columns." The stone is very light in color.
Pueblo and the Boiling Springs.
Pueblo, the terminus of the Atchison, Topeka, & Santa Fe R. R. (117 miles from
Denver, via Denver & Rio Grande R. R.), is the chief city of Southern Colorado,
and is situated at the confluence of Arkansas River and Fontaine Creek. It is the
centre of a vast and rich agricultural and grazing region, does a very large trade,
and has a population of about 4,000. It is built in a broad, nearly level basin, the
soil of which is rather sandy and impregnated with alkali. The streets are regularly
laid out, hut the buildings are for the most part small and unpretentious. Like all
Southern Colorado, Pueblo enjoys a delightful winter-climate, and its accessibility
gives it mauy advantages for such invalids as cannot endure the fatigue of traveling
to more remote points. Las Animas and Trinidad are other cities of Southern
Colorado which offer great attractions to health- seekers in winter. They are reached
via the Atchison. Topeka & Santa Fe R. R., from Pueblo 87 miles east to the former,
and 98 south to the latter. Ten miles from Pueblo, near the foot of Pike's Peak, are
the Boiling Springs, situated at an elevation of 6,350 feet above the sea. The waters
belong to the acidulous class, are highly carbureted, and are said to resemble closely
those of the famous Nassau Seltzer Springs.
Caiion City lies at the foot of the mountains, 40 miles from Pueblo by a branch of
the narrow-gauge railway. It is a flourishing mining-town, and, besides mines,
has in its vicinity coal-deposits, oil-wells, and mineral springs that are prized for
their medicinal qualities. A short distance above Cafion City, the Arkansas River
makes its exit from the mountains through Arkansas Cafion, a wild gorge of incon
ceivable majesty and grandeur. The site of the town is sheltered by the adjacent
hills, and the climate is delightful. Idaho Springs and Georgetown.
Visitors to Idaho Springs take the main line of the Colorado Central R. R. at Den
ver and traverse the entire distance to the Springs or to Georgetown by rail. The
scenery along the route is exceedingly grand and picturesque. Idaho Springs is beau
tifully situated in a lovely valley nestling among lofty mountain-ranges, at an eleva
tion of 8,000 feet above the sea. The air is remarkably dry, pure, and invigorating,
and the surrounding scenery is charming ; but the chief attraction of the place is its
hot and cold mineral springs. The waters contain soda, magnesia, iron, and lime, and
have fine tonic properties. They are used chiefly for bathing, and there are exten
sive bathing establishments and swimming-baths, in which baths may he had at the
natural heat of the water as it bubbles from the ground, or at a lower tempera
ture. During the summer the little town is thronged with tourists, and its shel
tered position makes it a desirable resort in winter. It is a favorite rendezvous for
excursion-parties, and full outfits of carriages, horses, and guides, are here furnished
to those desiring to visit Middle Park, the Chicago Lakes, Green Lake, the Old
Chief, or the mining-regions. The most popular excursions are to Fall River (2-J
miles), and to the lofty-lying Chicago Lakes (15 miles by trail). Invalids staying at
the Springs in winter should be careful to select a residence in a protected situa
tion, and to stav in-doors when the easterly winds are blowing. — Georgetown (reached
by a rail-ride of 16 miles from Idaho Springs) is the centre of the silver-mining
interests, and is situated on a broad level plateau at the mouth of two or three
canons, walled in on three sides by Leavenworth, Republican, and Summit Moun
tains. It is a place of much commercial activity, and in point of climate closely
resembles Idaho Springs. Many mountaineering tourists make Georgetown their
base of operations during the season, and complete outfits and guides may easily be

78 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.
procured. The distance to the Hot Springs in Middle Park is 45 miles. George
town is also the starting-point for Gray's Peak, which every one who can should
ascend. It is only 15 miles to the summit (14,200 feet above the sea), and the trip
there and back can he made in a day. The mountain-view from Gray's Peak, ex
cept that it lacks the picturesqueness of the glaciers, has all the beauties of Alpine '
scenery. North Park, Middle Park, and the Hot Springs.
As we have already remarked in our general description of the State, the four
great Natural Parks are perhaps the most characteristic feature of Colorado.
North Park, lying in the extreme northern part of the State, has been less explored
and settled than the rest, owing to its remote situation and colder climate. It
offers, for these reasons, the greatest attractions for the sportsman and adventurer ;
its streams are stocked with fish, and its forests and hill-sides abound with deer,
antelopes, wolves, and bears. The park embraces an area of about 2,500 square
miles, and has an elevation of nearly 9,000 feet above the sea. Guides and outfit
may be procured at Georgetown. Middle Park lies directly south of North Park,
from which it is separated by one of the cross-chains of the great mountain laby
rinth. The snow-range, or continental divide, sweeps around on its eastern side,
and it is completely encircled by majestic mountains. Long's Peak, Gray's Peak,
and Mount Lincoln, from 13,000 to 14,500 feet high, stand sentinels around it. It
embraces an area of about 3,000 square miles, extending about 65 miles north and
south and 45 miles east and west, and is about 9,000 feet above the sea. It is
drained by Blue River and the head-waters of Grand River, flowing westward to
the Colorado. The portions of the park not covered by forest expand into broad,
open meadows, the grasses of which are interspersed with wild-flowers of every
hue. There is game in abundance, including deer, mountain-sheep, elk, bears, and
antelopes, and the waters teem with fish. The climate, notwithstanding the great
elevation, is remarkably mild and equable, with cool nights in summer and warm
days in winter. No one, of course, should attempt to winter here who cannot
safely be cut off from many of the comforts and conveniences of life ; but those
who are able and willing to " rough it " will hardly find a place where they can do
so under more favorable conditions.
The usual objective point of tourists who go to the Middle Park is Hot Snlphnr
Springs, which may be reached from Georgetown by the Berthoud Pass (45 miles);
from Central City by the James's Peak trail (60 miles) ; and from South Boulder.
The first-mentioned route is the easiest for invalids who can stand a horseback
journey; hut the James's Peak route is practicable for carriages. The route from
South Boulder is tedious and little used. The Springs are situated on a tributary
of Grand River, about 12 miles from the southern boundary of the park. Describ
ing a visit to them in his " Switzerland of America," Mr. Samuel Bowles says: " On
the hill-side, 50 feet above the Grand River, and a dozen rods away, these hot, sul
phurous waters bubble up at three or four different places within a few feet, and,
coming together into one stream, flow over an abrupt bank, say a dozen feet high,
into a little circular pool or basin below. Thence the waters scatter off into the
river. But the pool and the fall unite to make a charming natural bathing-place.
You are provided with a hot sitz bath and douche together. The stream that
pours over the precipice into the pool is about as large as would flow out of a full
water-pail turned over, making a stream 3 to 5 inches in diameter. The water
is so hot that you cannot at first bear your hand in it, being 110° Fahrenheit in
temperature, and the blow of the falling water, and its almost scalding stream,
send the bather shrieking out, on his first touch of them ; but with light experi
ments — first an arm, then a leg, and next a shoulder — he gradually gets accustomed
to both heat and fall, and can stand directly under without flinching ; and then he
has such a bath as he can find nowhere else in the world. The invigorating
effects are wonderful. There is no lassitude or chill from it, as is usually experi
enced from an ordinary hot bath elsewhere. Though the water be 110° warm
and the air 30° to 40° cold, the shock of the fall is such a tonic, and the atmos-

SOUTH PARK AND SAN LUIS PARK. 79
phere, strictly, so dry and inspiring, that no reaction, no unfavorable effects
are felt, even by feeble persons, in coming from one into the other. The first
thing in the morning, the last at night, did we renew our trial of this hot bath
during our brief stay in the neighborhood, and the old grew young, and the young
joyous and rampant, from the experience." These baths have been found highly
beneficial in cases of rheumatism, neuralgia, chronic diseases of the skin, and gen
eral debility. The accommodations for invalids are not first rate as yet, hut suffi
cient, perhaps, for those who ought to venture upon the journey thither over the
mountains. A small town is gradually growing up in the vicinity.
One of the pleasantest excursions in Middle Park is up the valley, 27 miles from
the Springs, by a good road to Grand Lake, the source of the main fork of Grand
River. The lake nestles close to the base of the mountains, precipitous cliffs hang
frowning over its waters on three sides, tall pines come almost down to the white
sand-beach, and its translucent depths are thronged with trout and other fish.
South Park and San Luis Park.
South Park, the best known and most beautiful of all the parks, lies next below
Middle Park, from which it is separated by a branch of the Park range. It is 60
miles long and 30 wide, with an area of about 2,200 square miles, and, like the
Middle Park, is surrounded on all sides by gigantic ranges of mountains, whose
culminating crests tower above the region of perpetual snow. The maximum ele
vation of the park above the sea is 10,000 feet, while the average elevation is about
9,000 feet, and nearly all the land which it contains is well adapted to agriculture.
The streams, which are supplied by melting snows from the surrounding mountains,
are tributaries of the South Platte, and flow eastwardly through the park to the
plains. The climate of the South Park is milder than that of either North or
Middle Park, and its greater accessibility gives it peculiar advantages for such
tourists and invalids as cannot endure much fatigue. Fairplay is the chief town ot
the region, and the best centre for excursions. It is reached by stage, or wagon, or
horseback, from Denver via Turkey Creek Cafion (95 miles) ; from Colorado Springs
via Ute Pass (75 miles) ; and from Cafion City, at the end of the Denver & Rio
Grande R. R. (75 miles). The scenery afforded by any or all of these routes is of
incomparable grandeur and beauty. The visitor to Fairplay in summer should not
fail to ascend Mount Lincoln, which is the highest of the Colorado peaks, and
which affords a view that Prof. Whitney declares to be unequaled by any in
Switzerland for its reach or the magnificence of the included heights. The ascent
may be made nearly all the way by wagon or carriage, and presents no difficulty.
Besides Fairplay, there are other pleasant and easily-accessible towns in South Park,
of which Breckenridge and Hamilton may be mentioned.
San Luis Park is larger than the other three combined, embracing an area of
nearly 18,000 square miles— about twice the size of New Hampshire. It lies south
of South Park, from which it is separated by the main range, which forms its
northern and eastern boundary, while its western boundary is formed by the Sierra
San Juan. It is watered by 35 streams descending from the encircling snow-crests.
Nineteen of these streams flow into San Luis Lake, a beautiful sheet of water near
the centre of the park, and the others discharge their waters into the Rio del
Norte, in its course to the Gulf of Mexico. On the flanks of the great mountains
dense forests of pine, spruce, fir, aspen, hemlock, oak, cedar, and pifion, alternate
with broad, natural meadows, producing a luxuriant growth of nutritious grasses,
upon which cattle subsist throughout the year, without any other food, and requir
ing no shelter. The highest elevation in the park does not exceed 7,000 feet above
the sea, and this, together with its southern and sheltered location, gives it a won
derfully mild, genial, and equable climate. Thermal springs abound here, as in
other parts of Colorado, generally charged with medicinal properties ; but, unfor
tunately, little is known of this vast region.
[For further particulars concerning Colorado, especially the mountain ascents
and scenery, see Applbtons' Hand-Book or Ameeican Summer Resoets.]

80 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.

CALIFORNIA RESORTS.
The State of California extends along the Pacific coast of the United States,
between lat. 32° 20' and 42° north, and Ion. 114° 20' and 124° 25' west. Its out
line is very irregular. Its general direction lengthwise is northwest and southeast,
and a line drawn through its centre, following the curves of its eastern and western
boundaries, would measure about 770 miles. The greatest breadth is about 330
miles, least breadth 150 miles, average about 230 miles. In size it is the second
state in the Union, its area being 188,981 square miles, which is exceeded only by
Texas; its population in 1870 was 560,247. The most striking feature in the phys
ical geography of California is the existence of the two great ranges of mountains
running northwest and southeast, and generally parallel, called the Sierra Nevada
(snow range) and the Coast Range. The former is by far the more lofty and rugged
of the two, its summit being generally above the region of perpetual snow, and
having but few, and those very elevated, passes. In California it is 450 miles long
and 80 miles wide, with an altitude varying from 5,000 to 15,000 feet above the sea.
The sides of the mountains to a height of about 2,500 feet are covered with oak,
manzanita, and nut-pine, above which, to a height of 8,000 feet, dense forests of
coniferous trees appear, which are succeeded by naked granite and snow. From its
western slope it sends off numerous spurs into the interior valley; and among these
lies the great gold region discovered in 1848. The Coast Range, as its name indi
cates, runs along the coast, giving it a dangerous and forbidding rock-bound
character. This range averages from 2,000 to 4,000 feet in height, and is divided in
its length by long, narrow valleys: the Los Angeles, Salinas, Santa Clara, Sonoma,
Napa, and others, and also by the Bay of San Francisco. The breadth of the coast
mountains (from the Pacific to the great valley of the Sacramento and San Joaquin)
does not exceed 40 miles in most parts of the entire length of the State. The moun
tains of this range are clothed throughout with luxuriant forests, and contain a great
variety of minerals, of which some of the most valuable are found in abundance.
Between the Coast Range and the ocean occur numerous minor ranges and isolated
hills, frequently approaching the water's edge, and enclosing a succession of the
most salubrious, beautiful, and fertile valleys. To the north, the Pacific is still more
broken with low hills and mountains. The interlocking spurs of the Coast Range
and Sierra Nevada cover the whole northern end of the State, and give it a very
broken and rugged character. Between the Sierra Nevada and the Coast Range
lies the great basin bearing the double name of the Sacramento and San Joaquin
Valleys, although really but one geographical formation. This extends north and
south about 400 miles, with an average breadth of from 50 to 60 miles, and presents
evidences of having onse been the bed of a vast lake. It is drained from the north
by the Sacramento River, and from the south by the San Joaquin, which, after
meeting and uniting in the centre of the basin, break through the Coast Range to
the Pacific Along the rivers the valleys are generally low and level, and extremely
fertile, rising into undulating slopes and low hills as the mountains are approached
on either side. At the northern end, between lat. 40° and 42°, is a high table-land
or plateau, about 120 miles long, and 5,000 feet above the sea, lying between the
main chain of the Sierra Nevada and a branch which extends northwest to Mount
Shasta. This plateau is an independent basin ; its waters do not leave it, but flow
into a few lakes where they are absorbed in the sands. The great basin of Utah and
the Colorado Desert, in the southeastern portion of the State, are barren and sterile
tracts of land, with a sandy soil and scanty vegetation. The Sacramento and the
San Joaquin are the most important rivers of California, and the only lakes worth
mentioning are Donner Lake and Lake Tahoe, which lie together near the eastern
boundary. Its vast mineral wealth has hitherto attracted most attention to California • but
it is no less remarkable for its vegetable productions. The soil of the vallevs 'both
on the coast and in the interior, is generally fertile, consisting of a gravelly clay
with a rich sandy loam. All the fruits and cereals of the temperate zone are pro-

CALIFORNIA RESORTS.

81

duced in abundance throughout the State; while in the southern districts nearly all
the most valuable products of the tropics are cultivated with success. In many of
the southern counties two crops are taken annually from the same field. The pro
duction of fruits is unparalleled both in variety and amount, and includes apples,
apricots, cherries, figs, grapes, lemons, oranges, plums, pears, peaches, nectarines,
olives, pomegranates, pineapples, prunes, quinces, bananas, limes, citrons, raspberries,
strawberries, blackberries, gooseberries, currants, raisins, almonds, walnuts, chest
nuts, etc. Fruits generally attain a much larger size than in the Eastern States, and
are brought to maturity with very little care. California is widely celebrated for

A California Vineyard.
its production of grapes and wines. The grape region extends from the southern
boundary about 600 miles northerly, with an average breadth of about 100 miles,
and includes three distinct wine-districts: the southern, or Los Angeles, making
port and other sweet wines, together with some white wines ; the Coast Range,
producing white and red acid wines, hock, sauterne, claret, etc. ; and the foot-hills
of the Sierra Nevada, making dry wines of excellent quality, sherry, madeira, tene-
riffe, etc. Next to Australia, California is regarded as the best country in the world
for sheep-raising; no shelter is needed for the flock, while the fleeces are remark
ably heavy, and of superior quality. In the San Joaquin Valley and on the south
coast are extensive ranges where large herds of cattle run almost wild, the animals
being branded to indicate ownership.
The climate of California varies greatly in different parts, irrespective of the
great range of latitude (9|°) through which the State extends. It differs widely
from that of the Atlantic slope in the same latitudes, and probably from that
of any other country in the world. Properly speaking, California has several
climates: the basin of the Sacramento and San Joaquin valleys having one; the
western slope of the Coast Range north of lat. 35° another ; and that portion of the
State south of lat. 35° still another. The climate west of the Coast Range is differ
ent from that east of the same range, which is less than 60 miles in width. At San
Francisco the mercury seldom rises above 80° in the dry, or falls below 40° in the
wet season; the mean annual temperature is 56°, and the mercury seldom, if ever,

82

HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.

remains at the freezing-point 24 hours together. Snow very rarely falls there, and
the winters bear a strong resemblance to the Indian summers of the Mississippi
Valley. It is doubtful if any other country in the world has such warm winters
and such cool summers as California; the mean temperature of the coldest month
being only about 10° lower than that of the highest. The coolness of the sum
mer nights is attributed to the extreme clearness of the atmosphere favoring
radiation; and the warmth of winter to the influence of the great Japan Cur
rent, which performs the same functions in the Pacific as the Gulf Stream does in
the Atlantic Ocean. The wind blows for a part of each day from the north and
northwest along the coast nearly the whole year. During 8 months of the year the
prevailing wind in San Francisco is southwest. This wind commences pouring
through the Golden Gate toward noon, and increases in violence and chilliness till
late at night. Heavy fogs occur during the night in the months of June, July, and
August, but are of rare occurrence in winter, when the winds are not so strong.
The numerous sheltered valleys near the coast are comparatively free from winds
and fogs, and have a delicious and equable climate. In the interior the extremes
are much greater, the mercury in the Sacramento Valley often rising in summer to
110° and 112° ; but, owing to the extreme dryness of the atmosphere, this great heat
is much less prostrating in its effects than even a considerably lower temperature
on the Atlantic slope, and the nights are never so hot as to prevent sleep. In
the Sacramento and San Joaquin basin the mean temperature of the winter is
about 4° below that of the coast, and of the summer from 20° to 30° above. The
greater heat of the summer is supposed to result from the absence of the ocean-
breezes and fogs, and the cold of winter from the proximity of the snow-capped
Sierra Nevada. Southern California is said to possess a better climate than Italy.
South of San Francisco, and in the San Joaquin valley, frost is rarely known. Roses
bloom throughout the winter, and many trees retain their foliage green the year
round. The air, peculiarly warm and dry, is wonderfully healthful, and highly fa
vorable to consumptives and persons subject to diseases of the throat. For this
reason, San Diego, Santa Barbara, San Bernardino, Stockton, Visalia, and other
places to be described further along, have become popular winter-resorts for in
valids ; and many cures, even of those in the last stages of consumption, have been
recorded. The mean temperature for the year, and for the seasons, at various lo
calities, is shown in the following statement :

San Francisco .
Sacramento 
Monterey 
Santa Barbara.
San Diego 
Fort Yuma 
Humboldt Bay.,

Spring.

Summer.

Autumn.

Winter.

Year.

56.5'

60°

59°

51°

56.6"

56

69.5

61

46.5

58

54

59

57

51

55.5

60.46

69.58

65.9

53 33

60.2

60

71

64.5

52.5

62

72

90

75.5

57

73.5

52

57.5

53

43.5

51.5

California has a rainy and a dry season, the former nearly corresponding to the
winter, and the latter to the summer of the Atlantic region. The rains begin at the
north early in autumn, but do not fall in the latitude of San Francisco in any ap
preciable quantity until about the middle of December, which is the month
of greatest rain. The rainy season terminates toward the end of May. June,
July, and August are dry, only 2.3 inches of rain having fallen in these months
collectively m 17 years. It has been estimated that there are on an average
220 perfectly clear days in a year, 85 more or less cloudy, and 60 rainy. The
average fall, in inches, for the seasons and the year, is as follows :

PLACES.

Spring.

Summer.

Autumn.

Winter.

Yenr.

6.64 7.01
18 51
0.27
2.74

.13
.00
1.18 1.30
0.55

3.31
2.61
4.870.86 1.24

11.33
121115.03 0 72
5.90

21.4121.73
34.56

Sacramento 

Humboldt Bay 

Port Yuma 

10.43

SAN FRANCISCO.

83

Snow is very rare on the coast and in the valleys, and never remains for many days.
A marked phenomenon of the climate is the comparative absence of thunder and
lightning. During autumn many of the rivers sink in the sand soon after leaving
the mountains in which they rise ; the plains and hills are baked hard to the depth
of many inches ; and the grass and herbage, except near springs and in swampy
ground, are dried up and burned as brown as the earth they grow upon. The
climate is remarkably adverse to epidemic diseases, and California, as a whole, is
one of the healthiest countries in the world.
San Francisco.
San Francisco is not considered a desirable residence for invalids, because of the
prevalence of winds and fogs and its liability to sudden variations of temperature ;
but, whatever may be the ultimate destination of the tourist, this is likely to be his
first resting-place and starting-point ; and, as it is one of the most interesting cities in
the United States, it is well worth a visit. The route to San Francisco via the Pacific
Railroad, and the city itself, are fully described in Appletons' Hand-book of Ameei
can Cities (a companion-volume to the present), so we shall do no more here than sum
marize a few of the more important points. The journey from Chicago to San Fran
cisco (2,400 miles) requires from 5-J to 6 days. Some invalids, however, find this jour
ney very trying, and these should either break it at several points, or — better still —
make the steamer-voyage from New York to San Francisco via Panama. The elegant
steamers of the Pacific Mail Steamship Co. make the voyage in 15 days, with a rail
way journey of only 47 miles. Fare, $138, including stateroom and meals. The
city of San Francisco is situated at the north end of a peninsula which is 30 miles
long and 6 miles across at the city, and separates San Francisco Bay from the

City Hall, San Francisco.
Pacific Ocean. It stands on the eastern or inner slope of the peninsula, and at the
base of high hills. The business streets are built up densely, but beyond that the
houses are scattered at considerable intervals, and the settled part of the city may
be said to cover an area of 9 square miles. Of the hotels, the principal are the
Palace Hotel the largest and finest in the world ($3 to $4.50 a day) ; the Bald
win House ($3 to $4 a day) ; the Grand Hotel ($3 a day) ; the Occidental ($3 a
day) ; the Lick House ($3 a day) ; the Cosmopolitan ($3 a day) ; and the Russ House
($2 50 a day) The leading business streets are Montgomery, Kearney, Market, and
California The public buildings are the new City Hall, in process of erection m
Yerba Buena Park, the Custom-House. the U S. Branch Mint, the U S. Treasury,
the Hall of Records, the Merchants' Exchange, and the building of the Mercantile

84 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.
Library Association. The California Theatre, the Grand Opera-House, the Metro
politan Theatre, Woodward's Gardens, and the Chinese theatres, are the principal
places of amusement ; and the finest church edifices are St. Patrick's, St. Mary's
Cathedral, St. Joseph's, Grace, Calvary Presbyterian, the First Unitarian, and the
synagogue of Sherith- Israel. The favorite drive is to the Cliff House, situated on
the seashore, 6 miles from the city; and across the bay at Alameda, Oakland, and
Saucelito, are some large and beautiful public gardens. All the railways and steam
boat-lines of California centre at San Francisco.
Santa Barbara.
Santa Barbara, the best known and most frequented of the California health-
resorts, lies in a sheltered nook of the shore of the Pacific, 275 miles S. S. E. of San
Francisco (from which it is reached by steamer). Many of its climatic advantages
are due to its peculiar situation. " Upon referring to a map of California," says a
recent visitor, "the reader will see that, at Point Conception, the coast (previously
running nearly north and south) makes a sharp and sudden turn to the east, and
that it again turns, farther on, to the southward; also, that a range or succession of
ranges of mountains, gradually gaining in altitude as they recede from the ocean,
follows the general line. Between this range, which shuts off the force of the cold
northwest winds which prevail upon the upper part of the California coast, and the
sea, there lies that semi-tropical region that has of late years become noted as a
place of refuge from Northern winters. In the midst of that region is Santa Bar
bara. The approach to it from the north and by sea is very pleasing, and disposes
one pleasantly toward the town before it comes into view. The land terminates in
abrupt cliffs, from 40 to 60 feet high, and at their bases there are long, smooth
beaches, gently washed by the sea. From their tops the land recedes in low un
dulations, rich in pasturage, and the view terminates at the crests of high moun
tains about 20 miles farther inland. One perceives his approach to a settlement in
the gradually increasing number of houses and farm-lands along the coast. Some
of these houses are very fine, having balconies, broad piazzas, large gardens and
groves, and the cultivated ground seems particularly rich and productive. Several
hours before approaching this spot the traveler feels a very sensible change for the
better in the temperature. Before turning Point Conception he shuddered with the
cold, but now he is pleasantly warm, and he is tempted even to seek the shady side
of the boat. ... A sudden break in the coast-line discloses the town, lying upon a
gently-rising plain facing almost south. It seems to be nearly encircled, first by
low foot-hills, and then by lofty mountains in the rear. The plain that is directly
in view is perhaps 3 square miles in extent, and over the greater part of this the
town is distributed. A few spires and a few towers here and there, a number of
square and lofty mercantile buildings, together with a collection of low roofs, fairly
dense, and then a very scattered suburb of handsome villas, is the reward for the
first glances at the place."
The town has grown out of an old Spanish mission which was founded in 1780,
and which gradually drew around it the native cultivators of the adjacent lands.
Its present population is about 6,000, half of whom are Americans, that have come
here in search of health from the New England and Middle States ; and, as most of
these latter belong to what are called the " better classes," the society of the place
is exceptionally pleasant and refined. There are several hotels and many boarding-
houses (charging $10 to $14 a week), 2 banks, a college, good public schools, 3 daily
and 2 weekly newspapers, and 7 churches. The town contains a " Spanish quar
ter " and a " Chinese quarter," both of which will prove interesting to strangers by
their tumble-down picturesqueness ; but the new or American part of the town,
and especially the suburbs, are handsomely built and tastefully adorned. " Most of
the cottages are really charming, and if some of them are a little overdone in orna
mentation, the trouble is balanced by the real beauty which Nature affords in the
gardens. Every plot of ground, no matter how small, has its row of orange-trees,
its exotics, and its bed of native perennials. Roses abound summer and winter.
The verbena-beds are cut down like grass' thrice yearly, and spring up again stronger

SAN DIEGO AND LOS ANGELES. 85
than ever. Sago, palm, Japanese persimmon, cacti of the rarest and most curious
sort, grow freely, and so do the calla, the Spanish bayonet, and the great white-
plumed pampas-grass. Vines of every sort flourish luxuriantly. Heliotrope climbs
20 feet high. The two predominating native trees of the place are the live-oak and
the sycamore. But the people plant a little shoot of the Australian blue-gum (Eu
calyptus globulus), and in two years it becomes a shade-tree 15 or 20 feet high. One
of these trees, having a graceful, green-brown foliage, will rise in five years above
the surrounding verdure like a Lombardy poplar, and the rows which in Santa Bar
bara meet the eye everywhere are very marvels of rapid and healthy growth. A
little apart from the town, and in all directions, there are large farms and ranches
hundreds of acres in extent, and upon these are dwellings about as rich and tasteful
as one sees in the suburbs of Boston. They are surrounded by a hundred umbra
geous retreats, and are in all respects the results of the nicest taste."
The climate of Santa Barbara is extremely equable and mild. By reference to
the table on page 82, it will be seen that the mean temperature for the year is 60.2° ;
for the summer, 69.58° ; and for the winter, 53.33°. The variations are very slight,
the thermometer rarely rising above 80° in summer, and as rarely sinking to 40° in
winter. The coldest day recorded during a period of 9 years was 42° ; and there
are none of those sharp and sudden changes of temperature that are so trying to
invalids. The air, too, is not only warm, but remarkably dry. The rainfall aver
ages but 12 or 15 inches annually, and the days are nearly always brilliantly bright
and sunny. The only serious drawback is the fogs which sometimes come in from
the sea. Between May and September they average, perhaps, two a week ; but they
disperse at nine in the morning, and the succeeding weather is delightful. Mr.
Nordhoff expresses the opinion that there were not " five days, either in Santa Bar
bara or San Diego, in December, January, and February of this year (1871), in
which the tenderest invalid could not pass the greater part of the day out-of-doors
with pleasure and profit. In Santa Barbara there were not a dozen days during the
whole winter in which a baby I know did not play on the sea-heach. But in the
evening you will sit by a wood-fire (mostly withthe doors and windows open), and
at night you sleep under blankets very comfortably." After reaching Santa Bar
bara it is necessary for the more delicate invalids to exercise some care in the selec
tion of a residence. The air of the plateau near the Old Mission is thought to be
drier than in the town itself, and in the valley back of the encircling foot-hills it is
drier still. Sometimes a change of half a mile will make all the difference be
tween discomfort and serene ease. Mr. Nordhoff recommends that persons who
are very sensitive to damp should find lodgings in the upper part of the town, or
in what is called Montecito (a little mountain), a suburb 2 or 3 miles distant, and
sheltered from the sea-breeze by an intervening range of low hills. Near Montecito
are the Hot Sulphur Springs, some containing sulphur and sulphnreted hydrogen,
and others containing iron, alumina, and potash. They are said to cure rheuma
tism and various diseases of the skin ; hut the waters should not be used by invalids
except under the advice of a local physician.
The chief recreation at Santa Barbara is horseback-riding. Horses can be
bought for from $20 to $50, and, as it costs very little to keep them, every family,
almost every person, has one or more. There are numberless attractive roads lead
ing out in every direction, many pleasant excursion points, and a fine ocean-beach,
on which the Spanish Californians used in the old times to race their horses.
The visitor to Santa Barbara becomes an equestrian almost perforce ; for the
universal example is contagious, and unless he takes kindly to it he finds him
self cut off from participation in nearly all the current gayeties and amusements.
San Diego and Los Angeles.
San Diego, another favorite resort of health-seekers, is the capital of San Diego
Co., and lies on the northeast shore of a bay of the same name, about 460 miles
southeast of San Francisco, and 15 miles north of the Mexican border (in lat. 32°
44' 41"). Its harbor is, next to that of San Francisco, the best on the California

86 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.
coast, being well protected, capacious, and having a good depth of water. The
town is more than 100 years old, having been founded by the Roman Catholic mis
sionaries in 1769. Its growth during the last few years has been rapid, and it now
has four churches, two academies, two daily and two weekly newspapers, two
hanks, a fine court-house, a comfortable hotel, several large boarding-houses, and
a population estimated at 5,000. The climate of San Diego is remarkably equable
and salubrious, the thermometer seldom rising to 80°, or sinking to the freezing-
point, and the usual mean being 62°. The average rainfall is only 10 inches per
annum, and there is never enough at one time to render it muddy. The winter
days are as sunny and inviting as those of June in the Eastern States, and an
out-door life is possible to all save the feeblest invalids. There is no fog, as in
Santa Barbara and more northern latitudes, and very little moisture in the air.
For consumptives and asthmatics, San Diego is probably as helpful a place of
residence as any in Europe or America ; but rheumatism is said to be more or less
prevalent in winter, and malarious diseases in summer. The pleasantest months
are November, December, January, and February ; the spring and summer months
are rendered disagreeable by the high winds and the storms of dust that often
prevail. San Diego has been fixed by act of Congress as the western terminus of
the Texas & Pacific R. R. ; but its present connection with San Francisco is by
steamer along the coast, or by a pleasant stage-ride of 130 miles from Los Angeles.
Los Angeles, the largest city in Southern California, is situated on the west bank
of the Los Angeles River, a small stream, 30 miles above its entrance into the
Pacific, and 350 miles S. S. E. of San Francisco. A railroad 22 miles long connects
it with San Pedro on the coast, whence it has connection with San Francisco by
steamer ; and it may also be reached from San Francisco via the Visalia Division
of the Central Pacific R. R. (473 miles). The city was settled by the Spaniards
in 1780, and was called Pueblo de los Angeles (" town of the angels "), from
the excellence of its climate and the beauty of its surroundings. Its present popu
lation is about 12,000, and the adobe buildings, of which it was originally com
posed, are fast giving way to larger and more imposing structures. It has a
large and varied trade with the interior, and contains three banks, a Roman
Catholic college, several public schools, a public library, three daily and two weekly
newspapers, churches of the various denominations, and good hotels. In the north
west portion is a hill 60 feet high, commanding a fine view of the city, which lies
in a sheltered valley, bounded on the west by low hills, that extend from the Santa
Monica Mountains, 40 miles distant, and on the east by the San Gabriel plateau.
The climate of Los Angeles is almost as mild as that of San Diego, and some inva
lids prefer it, because here they escape the winds, which blow all along the coast.
The nights, however, are chilly, and it is not considered a desirable residence for
persons affected with throat diseases. Along both banks of the river below the
city extends a fertile plain, planted with vineyards and orange-groves, and there
are also large vineyards within the city limits. Los Angeles is the centre of the
orange-growing business of California, and lemons, olives, and other tropical fruits
are cultivated in the vicinity. San Bernardino.
San Bernardino, the most frequented of the inland resorts, lies about 60 miles
east of Los Angeles (from which it is reached by a stage-ride of 10 hours), in a
beautiful valley with picturesque mountains on three sides of it. The town con
tains about 4,000 inhabitants, two hotels, four churches, an excellent school, and a
number of private boarding-houses, where accommodation can be had at reason
able rates. It is supplied with water by artesian wells, and all parts of the town,
especially Old San Bernardino, are embowered in fruit and ornamental trees. Fruits
of all kinds are grown here, and oranges and lemons are produced in great abun
dance. The view of Mount San Bernardino, the loftiest peak of the Coast Range is
exceedingly grand. The air of San Bernardino is drier than that of points nearer
the coast, and for this reason is preferable for some consumptives. Little rain falls
during the year, malaria is unknown, and the climate is a perpetual invitation to

THE PASO-ROBLES HOT SPRINGS.— SACRAMENTO.

87

an open-air life. Many invalids find a residence in Old San Bernardino (which lies
higher than the new town), or in Riverside, more beneficial than one in the town
proper ; hut the entire valley is remarkably salubrious. About 4 miles distant,
near Mount San Bernardino, are some hot springs, containing lime, soda, iron, and
alumina ; their medicinal properties have not been fully ascertained, and the waters
should be taken with caution. Horses may be bought at from $20 to $50 each at
San Bernardino ; their keep costs very little, and many attractive excursions may
be made in the vicinity — to the San Gorgonio Pass, the Great Yuma Desert, the
San Jacinto tin mines, or the placer gold diggings.
The Faso-Robles Hot Springs.
The Paso-Rohles mineral springs lie on the line of the stage-route between Los
Angeles and San Diego, but the easiest way of reaching them from San Francisco
is via steamer to San Luis Obispo, and thence by a pleasant stage-ride of 28 miles.
The springs are situated on the great Paso-Robles ranch, and contain sulphureted
hydrogen, carbonic acid, soda, magnesia, potassa, iron, bromine, iodine, alumina,
and sulphuric acid. The waters are taken chiefly in the form of baths, at the nat
ural temperature, and are considered among the most valuable in America for
rheumatism, gout, and chronic diseases of the skin. There are good accommoda
tions for visitors at the springs, and the climate has the mildness and salubrity com
mon to all Southern California. Sacramento.
Sacramento, the capital of California, and second city in the State in population
and importance, lies northeast of San Francisco, 83 miles distant by the California
Pacific R. R., and 139 miles by the Central Pacific R. R. It is also reached from
San Francisco by the steamers of the California Steam Navigation Company up the

State Capitol.

Sacramento River (117 miles). The city is built in an extensive plain on the east
bank of the Sacramento River, immediately south of the mouth of the American
River. Its site is very low, having originally been only fifteen feet above low-water

88 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.
mark; and as the river often rises twenty feet, it has been subjected to frequent
overflows. The business portion of the city has been artificially raised about eight
feet above the original level, and the exposed portions surrounded by a great levee ;
but in seasons of floods the land for miles around is saturated with moisture, and
the air is apt to be damp and penetrating. For these reasons, though the climate
of Sacramento is delightfully mild and equable in winter, it is not considered so
propitious for invalids as other portions of the State, and is not likely to secure it a
reputation as a health-resort. Still, many prefer to remain here instead of going to
more remote points, attracted by the social and other advantages of the place ; for
Sacramento is one of the handsomest cities west of the Rocky Mountains. The
streets are straight and wide, and cross each other at right angles ; those in the
business portion are paved with Nicolson pavement and cobble-stones, and are lighted
with gas. The shops and stores are mostly of brick, the dwellings mostly of wood,
and surrounded by gardens. Shade-trees are abundant, and a luxuriant growth of
flowers and shrubs may be seen in the open air at all seasons of the year. The only
important public building is the State Capitol, but this is one of the finest structures
of the kind in the United States. It is situated almost in the heart of the city, and
the grounds cover eighteen blocks, beautifully laid out with trees, shrubs, and
flowers. The State Library, in the Capitol, has upward of 35,000 volumes; and
the Sacramento Library, in a fine building belonging to the association, about 7,000
volumes. The State Agricultural Society has ample accommodations for the exhibi
tion of stock, and one of the finest race-courses in the world. It holds a fair an
nually, about the middle of September. There are a number of fine church edifices
in the city, excellent hotels, many schools, public and private, charitable institutions,
a convent, and vast manufactories and machine-shops. Sacramento is a great rail
road and steamboat centre, and connects directly with all parts of the State. On
this account it is a favorable temporary stopping-point and headquarters for either
tourists or invalids. Stockton and Visalia.
Stockton and Visalia are situated in the great San Joaquin Valley, east of the
Coast Range, and are, like San Bernardino, peculiarly favorable to such invalids as
are liable to be affected injuriously by even mild sea-air. Stockton has a climate
very closely resembling that of Naples, but the atmosphere is drier and more brac
ing, with fewer variations of temperature. It is situated at the head of the San
Joaquin Valley, about 65 miles east of San Francisco, on the Central Pacific R. R.,
and at the head of tide-navigation on the San Joaquin River. It occupies a level
site, and is substantially and compactly built, with handsome, wide streets, and pub
lic buildings that indicate enterprise and taste. The population at present is about
15,000, and is rapidly increasing. The Court-House and City Hall, near the centro
of the city, is surrounded with choice shade-trees and shrubbery, as are also many
of the residences. The business-blocks are principally of brick. The city is lighted
with gas, and is supplied with water through pipes from three artesian wells. The
State lunatic asylum is located here, and there are twelve churches, several of which
are costly structures, and excellent public schools. Of several good hotels the
Yosemite House is perhaps the best. The city is surrounded by the most extensive
and productive wheat-growing lands in the State, and its business consists chiefly
in furnishing supplies to the farmers of the San Joaquin Valley and in the shipment
of wheat, wool, and other produce. Stockton may be reached from San Francisco
by steamer as well as by rail, and is an excellent starting-point for excursions to
the Yosemite Valley, the Big Trees, and other popular resorts.
Visalia lies about 150 miles farther down the San Joaquin Valley than Stockton
(a railway connecting the two is nearly completed), and has a climate slightly
warmer, but equally dry and healing. It is a thriving and well-built town of 3 000
inhabitants, and is situated in the midst of a forest of magnificent oaks which
shelter it from the winds that sometimes sweep over the broad San Joaquin plains.
The Visalia House is an excellent hotel, and there are private boarding-houses
where good board may be had at from $30 to $50 per month. The tropical fruits

SAN JOSE AND THE SANTA CLARA VALLEY. 89
produce abundantly in the neighborhood, and the surrounding scenery is attractive.
There is no better spot in California for persons who are troubled with a tender
throat than Visalia. San Jose and the Santa Clara Valley.
The Santa Clara Valley lies between the Coast and Santa Cruz Mountains, and
is about 100 miles in length ; it is watered by the Coyote and Guadalupe Rivers
and by artesian wells, and is considered by many to be the most fertile in the world.
Vineyards covering hundreds of acres, vast wheat-fields one and two miles in length,
stately trees, forests of live-oak, and finely-cultivated farms, are to be seen on every
hand ; and the vegetation is of tropical luxuriance and beauty. Being protected
north and south by mountain-ranges, its climate is wonderfully bland and genial in
winter ; while, being open to the ocean toward the west, it has all the advantages of
the sea-breezes. In the heart of the valley, 40 miles southeast of San Francisco
and 8 miles from the head of San Francisco Bay, is the city of San Jose, with a pop
ulation of about 15,000. The main portion of the city occupies a gently-rising pla
teau between the Coyote and Guadalupe Rivers, here If miles apart, with suburbs
extending some distance beyond them. It is handsomely laid out, lighted with gas,
and well supplied with water. Horse-cars run through the main streets. The
principal public buildings are the Court-House, a massive Corinthian structure,
costing $200,000, with a dome commanding a fine view ; the Jail, adjoining it, the
finest in the State, costing $80,000 ; the City Hall; two markets, costing more than
$40,000 each; 8 public-school buildings; and 10 churches, of which the largest and
most expensive is an unfinished edifice belonging to the Roman Catholics. The
city is noted for its educational institutions. Besides the public schools, there are
the College of Notre Bame (Roman Catholic), a day and boarding school for girls ;
the San Jose Institute, a day and boarding school for both sexes; and the University
of the Pacific (Methodist), connected with which is a young ladies' seminary.
The library of the San Jose Library Association contains 4,000 volumes. There
is an Opera-House, seating 1,200 persons, and an elegant and commodious Music-
Hall. The city has three public parks, containing 2, 8, and 30 acres respectively,
and owns a tract of 400 acres in Penitencia Cafion, 7 miles east, reserved for a
public park, containing a wild rocky gorge with a mountain-stream and a variety
of mineral springs. The surrounding country yields grain and fruits abundantly, and
in the vicinity are some of the finest vineyards in California. San Jose is a favorite
excursion-point for San Franciscans, and to the stranger the streets are highly
interesting from the strongly-contrasted groups that pass through them. "Here,"
says a correspondent of the Springfield Republican, " we see an American, with his
fine broadcloth and silk hat, his light wagon and well-groomed trotter ; there, two
or three rancheros, with their slouched hats, loose and shabby garments, on rough-
coated horses, stained with the mud of a former day ; here, a Mexican on a com
pactly-limbed mustang, with the high peak and broad stirrups of the Mexican saddle
(which is the only one in use here), with his big, broad-brimmed hat, his loose but
jaunty jacket, with all the seams of his clothing trimmed with rows of small steel
or silver buttons, and heavy spurs. Chinese and negroes abound among the passers-
by on foot. There is a street in San Jose occupied entirely by the French. The
houses are unpretending, but very cheerful and pretty, with small grounds a good
deal decorated, abundance of flowers, and always a cluster of artichoke-plants in the
garden. There is another quarter occupied entirely by the Chinese ; one-story brick
buildings, crowded and poor, hut quaint with Chinese pottery, and brightened by
what are called Chinese lilies — bulbs grown in dishes filled with pebbles and water.
They are the narcissus of the spring-borders in New England, and every Chinaman
tries to have one blossom for his New Year's."
The famous Almaden Quicksilver Mines are about 14 miles from San Jose, and
may be reached by a pleasant two-hours' ride in a stage-coach. They are well
worth a visit.
Three miles west of San Jos6 is the picturesque village of Santa Clara, with a
population of about 5,000. Horse-cars connect the two, running along the Alameda,
1

90 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.
a beautiful avenue bordered by fine residences, and rows of superb trees planted by
the Jesuit fathers in 1777. Santa Clara contains several fine churches, and is the
site of the Santa Clara College (Jesuit), which occupies a number of elegant build
ings in an inclosure of about 12 acres. Included in this institution is the Old Mis
sion, founded by the Spanish missionaries in early times, and the orchards planted
by them may still be seen. Stages run from the depot at Santa Clara to the Congress
Mineral Springs (about 11 miles). These waters contain carbonate and sulphate of
soda, chloride of sodium, lime, iron, silicate of alumina, and magnesia, and are re
garded as a specific for rheumatism. San Rafael and Monterey.
Near the western shore of San Pablo Bay, about 15 miles from San Francisco
(from which it is reached by rail or steamer), is the pretty little town of San Rafael.
It is sheltered on the north and west by mountains, which protect it from the
ocean-winds and fogs that prevail at San Francisco, and is much frequented both in
winter and summer. The air is pure and bracing, and, though hardly warm enough
for consumptives in advanced stages of the disease, is admirably adapted for such
as are in the preliminary stages, and only need a dry and tonic climate inviting to
an out-door life. The scenery about San Rafael and in the approaches to it is
extremely fine, and horses may be had in the village for the ascent of Mount Ta-
maulipas (12 miles distant). Of course, its proximity to San Francisco gives it im
portant advantages for many. — Monterey is beautifully situated on the southern ex
tremity of a bay of the same name, which lies 78 miles south of San Francisco by
water. Until 1847 this town was the seat of government and principal port on the
California coast ; but since the rise of San Francisco its commerce and business have
dwindled away, and it is now one of the quiotest places in the State, containing in
1870 less than 1,200 inhabitants. Within the past two or three years, however, it
has begun to attract attention as a health-resort ; its climate being warm in winter,
cool in summer, and dry all the year round. It is not so sheltered as Santa Bar
bara, nor so warm as San Diego, but it is much preferable to any point on the coast
farther north, and will probably grow in popularity. The view of the town from
the anchorage is very fine, especially in early spring. The green slopes upon which
the houses are built contrast beautifully with the forest of pines which grows upon
the ridges beyond. The Rocky Bluffs above the town also afford fine views. Mon
terey is reached by stage from San Jose (see page 89), or by steamer from San Fran
cisco. On the north side of Monterey Bay, opposite Monterey, is the town of Santa
Cruz, where manufacturing is extensively carried on. Bathing, fishing, and hunt
ing, are among the attractions of Santa Cruz ; and the scenery in the neighborhood
is romantic and beautiful.
Pescadero (38 miles by stage from Santa Cruz, and about 50 miles by sea from
San Francisco) is a thriving town, beautifully situated in a remarkably productive
valley, on both sides of Pescadero Creek, near its confluence with the Butano, about
a mile from the sea-shore. The new San Francisco Water Company takes its supply
from the head of the creek. Near the town is the famous pebble-beach, where agates,
opals, jaspers, carnelians, and other siliceous stones, of almost every conceivable
variety of color, are found in great abundance, with a natural polish imparted by
the action of the waves and the smooth sea-sand. The industrious little town of
Pescadero annually makes and exports to San Francisco 175,000 pounds of cheese
and 50,000 pounds of butter._ The great " Sanitary Cheese," weighing 4,000 pounds,
measuring five feet and six inches in diameter, and twenty-two inches thick, manu
factured for the benefit of the " Sanitary Fund," 1863, was made in the Pescadero
Valley. Pescadero is a favorite resort for San Francisco pleasure-seekers.
Napa City and Calistoga.
Steamers leave San Francisco twice daily for Vallejo (26 miles), where con
nection is made with the California Pacific R. R. The route of this railway lies
through Napa Valley, which is about 50 miles long, 1 to 6 miles wide, and in point
of cultivation and beauty second to none on the Pacific coast. Napa City (41 miles

THE GEYSER SPRINGS. 91
from San Francisco) is a thrifty plaoe of about 4,000 inhabitants, and is surrounded
by a highly productive agricultural region, rich in fruits of all kinds, and in immense
fields of grain that stretch away in every direction. The climate is less mild than
that of Southern California, but is equable and salubrious, and is considered highly
beneficial for those suffering from general nervous prostration. There are many
beautiful drives in the environs of Napa, one of the most attractive of which is that
to Santa Rosa, taking in the famous wine-cellars of Sonoma. The Napa Soda Springs
are situated in the foot-hills, about 5 miles northeast of the town. The water is
palatable, and is said to possess valuable medicinal properties, but their precise
nature has not been sufficiently ascertained. — Calistoga (68 miles from San Fran
cisco), the terminus of the Napa Valley branch of the California Pacific R. R., is a
pretty little town, lying in a valley a mile in width, and encircled by hills and
mountains covered with oak, pine, maple, ash, and madrona. It is supplied with
pure water from a reservoir on the adjacent mountain-side, and there are several
bath-houses, supplied with water from neighboring springs. The public warm swim
ming-bath, 40 feet square, is one of the features of the place. The scenery is
exceedingly picturesque, the well-cultivated fields, green lawns, sunny slopes, and
shaded villas, contrasting pleasantly with the wild grandeur of the rugged moun
tains. This region is not a desirable residence for consumptives; but those suffer
ing from rheumatic or gouty affections, or skin-diseases, derive much benefit from
the mineral springs, which are numerous in the vicinity. The most noted of the
springs are Harbin's (20 miles north of Calistoga), and the White Sulphur Springs.
The latter are situated in a deep and picturesque gorge of the mountains, which rise
on either side to a height of about 1,000 feet. About 5 miles southeast of Calistoga
is the Petrified Forest, which is justly regarded as one of the great natural wonders
of California. Portions of nearly 100 distinct trees, of great size, prostrate and
scattered over a tract 3 or 4 miles in extent, have been found, some on the surface
and others projecting from the mountain-side. They are supposed to have been
silicified by an eruption of the neighboring Mount St. Helena, which discharged hot
alkaline waters containing silica in solution.
The Geyser Springs.
Steamers leave San Francisco twice daily for Donahue (34 miles), where con
nection is made with the North Pacific R. R. From Healdsburg, on this road (72
miles from San Francisco), stages run to the famous Geyser Springs, which are
situated in Sonoma County, in a lateral gorge of the Napa Valley, called the
"Devil's Cafion," near the Pluton River. The approaches to the springs are very
impressive, the scenery being finer, according to Bayard Taylor, than anything in
the Lower Alps. The narrow Geyser ravine, which is always filled with vapor, is
shut in by steep hills, the sides of which, marked with evidences of volcanic action,
are smoking with heat and bare of vegetation. A multitude of springs gush out
at the base of these rocks. Hot and cold springs, boiling springs, and quiet
springs, lie within a few feet of each other. They differ also in color, smell, and
taste. Some are clear and transparent, others white, yellow, or red with ochre,
while still others are of an inky blackness. Some are sulphurous and fetid in odor,
and some are charged with alum and salt. The Steampipe is an orifice in the hill
side, about 8 inches in diameter, from which a volume of steam rises with a con
tinuous roar to a height varying from 50 to 200 feet. In a cavity called the Witches'
Caldron a mass of black fetid mud is ever bubbling with heat, the vapor from it
depositing black flowers of sulphur on the rocks around. Opposite is a boiling
alum-spring, very strongly impregnated; and within 12 feet is an intermittent
scalding spring, from which issue streams and jets of boiling wate*r. The surface
of the ground about the springs, which is too hot to walk upon with thin shoes, is
covered with the minerals deposited by the waters, among which are sulphur, sul
phate of magnesia, sulphate of aluminum, and various salts of iron. A properly-
directed course of these waters is said to afford an almost certain cure for rheuma
tism, gout, and skin-diseases; but persons suffering from throat or pulmonary
affections should not reside in the neighborhood.

92

HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.

THE LOWER MISSISSIPPI.
Theee is, perhaps, not a spot in the entire Mississippi Valley, between St. Louis
and New Orleans, which offers to the invalid any special attractions as a residence;
but a winter-voyage down the river is one of the most delightful of experiences.
The traveler who makes such a voyage feels as if he were indeed going " from lands
of snows to lands of sun ;" and, though he may miss the picturesque and beautiful
scenery that distinguishes the Upper Mississippi from St. Paul to the mouth of the
Missouri, his eye will be alternately charmed and amazed by the strange panorama
that unfolds itself before him from day to day. The dreary solitude, and often the
absence of all living objects save the huge alligators, which float past apparently
asleep on the drift-wood, and an occasional vulture attracted by its impure prey on
the surface of the waters ; the trees, with a long and melancholy drapery of pen
dent moss fluttering in the wind ; and the gigantic river, rolling onward the vast
volume of its dark and turbid waters through the wilderness, form the leading feat
ures of one of the most dismal yet impressive landscapes on which the eye of man
ever rested. "The prevailing character of the Lower Mississippi," says a recent

A Bayou of trie Mississippi.

traveler, " is that of solemn gloom. I have trodden the passes of Alp and Apen-
nine, yet never felt how awful a thing is Nature, till I was borne on its waters
through regions desolate and uninhabitable. Day after day and night after night
we continued driving right downward to the south ; our vessel, like some huge
demon of the wilderness, bearing fire in her bosom, and canopying the eternal for
est with the smoke of her nostrils. The effect on my spirits was such as I have
never experienced before or since. Conversation became odious, and I passed my
time in a sort of dreamy contemplation. At night I ascended to the highest deck,
and lay for hours gazing listlessly on the sky, the forests, and the waters, amid
silence only broken by the clanging of the engine. The navigation of the Missis
sippi is not unaccompanied by danger, arising from what are called planters and
sawyers. These are trees firmly fixed in the bottom of the river, by which vessels
are in danger of being impaled. The distinction is, that the former stand upright

THE LOWER MISSISSIPPI. 93
in the water, the latter lie with their points directed down the stream. The bends
or flexures of the Mississippi are regular in a degree unknown in any other river.
The action of running water, in a vast alluvial plain like that of the basin of the
Mississippi, without obstruction from rock or mountain, may be calculated with the
utmost precision. Whenever the course of a river diverges in any degree from a
right line, it is evident that the current can no longer act with equal force on both
its banks. On one side the impulse is diminished, on the other increased. The ten
dency in these sinuosities, therefore, is manifestly to increase, and the stream which
hollows out a portion of one bank, being rejected to the other, the process of curva
ture is still continued, till its channel presents an almost unvarying succession of
salient and retiring angles. In the Mississippi the flexures are so extremely great,
that it often happens that the isthmus which divides different portions of the
river gives way. A few months before my visit to the South, a remarkable case
of this kind had happened, by which forty miles of navigation had been saved.
The opening thus formed was called the new cut. Even the annual changes which
take place in the bed of the Mississippi are very remarkable. Islands spring up
and disappear ; shoals suddenly present themselves where pilots have been accus
tomed to deep water; in many places, whole acres are swept away from one bank
and added to the other ; and the pilot assured me that in every voyage he could
perceive fresh changes. Many circumstances contribute to render these changes
more rapid in the Mississippi than in any other river. Among these, perhaps the
greatest is the vast volume of its waters, acting on allvuial matter peculiarly
penetrable. The river, when in flood, spreads over the neighboring country, in
which it has formed channels, called bayous. The banks thus become so saturated
with water, that they can oppose little resistance to the action of the current,
which frequently sweeps off large portions of the forest. The immense quantity
of drift-wood is another cause of change. Floating logs encounter some obstacle
in the river, and become stationary. The mass gradually accumulates; the water,
saturated with mud, deposits a sediment, and thus an island is formed, which soon
becomes covered with vegetation. Some years ago the Mississippi was surveyed
by order of the Government, and its islands, frcm the confluence of the Missouri
to the sea, were numbered. I remember asking the pilot the name of a very
beautiful island, and the answer was, "573," the number assigned to it in the hydro-
graphical survey, and the only name by which it was known."
The voyage down the Mississippi may be begun at either Cincinnati or St. Louis ;
but as we have already described the Upper Mississippi from St. Louis to St. Paui
in Appletons' Hand-book of Ameeican Summee Resoets, we shall, for the
purpose of linking on with that, begin our present description at St. Louis. The
city of St. Lonis is fully described in Appletons' Hand-book of Ameeican
Cities, and before leaving it the traveler should, if possible, acquaint himself with
its more salient and attractive features. The steamers which ply on the Mississippi
are among the largest and finest in American waters ; and as eight days or more
are consumed in the passage to New Orleans, their luxuries and conveniences will
be found no unimportant item in the sum of the traveler's enjoyment. Almost
immediately after getting out of sight of the wharves and smoke of St. Louis, the
steamer enters upon the vast solitudes which one finds so impressive on the Mis
sissippi. Every now and then a stop is made at a small landing, or at the towns
and villages that cluster along the banks; and the clamor of lading and unlading
causes a momentary excitement that subsides at once as the steamer resumes her
course. About 125 miles below St. Louis the mouth of the Ohio River is reached,
and a somewhat prolonged stay is made at Cairo, a lively little city and railroad
centre, built on a low point of land at the junction of the two rivers. There is a
fine cut-stone custom-house here, and other handsome public buildings ; and vast
levees protect it from the inundations to which its position renders it peculiarly
liable. Cairo is the southern terminus of the Illinois Central R. R., and is con
nected by ferry with Colnmbns, Ky., which lies on the river 18 miles below. Co
lumbus is situated on the southern slope of a high bluff commanding the river for
about 5 miles, and at the outbreak of the Civil War was strongly fortified by the

94

HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.

Confederates, who regarded it as the northern key to the mouth of the Mississippi.
They collected in the town and its vicinity an army of 30,000 men, hut after the
fall of Forts Henry and Donelson, in February, 1862, it was promptly evacuated.
Just above the town are the Iron Banks, extending along the river on the same
side for about 2 miles, and so called from their color resembling iron-rust. Island
No. 10 (51 miles below Columbus) was the scene of a terrific bombardment by the
Mississippi River fleet, extending from March 16 to April 17, 1862, in which the
Federals were completely successful. The canal which was cut to assist in the in
vestment of the island, and the remains of some of the earthworks, can still be
seen in passing the island. Ten miles below, in Missouri, is New Madrid, which
was captured at the same time as Island No. 10, both places having formed parts of
one position, and mutually dependent upon each other. This was the first battle
of the war in which the superiority of gunboats to stationary batteries was clearly
demonstrated. New Madrid was settled in 1780, and was the scene of a great
earthquake in 1811.
From Columbus to Memphis the river skirts the bluffs of the eastern or Ken
tucky shore, having on its west the broad, alluvial lands of Missouri and Arkansas.
A number of small towns dot either bank, and at intervals spots are pointed out
which events of the Civil War have rendered interesting. Conspicuous among these
is Fort Pillow (148 miles below Columbus), situated on the first Chickasaw Bluff,
It was evacuated by the Confederates on June 4, 1862 ; but on April 12, 1864, was
the scene of the shameful butchery by the troops under General Forrest, known in
history as the Fort Pillow massacre, concerning which the testimony is conflicting,
and probably exaggerated, on both sides. Below Fort Pillow a journey of about
100 miles, along desolate and almost uninhabited shores, bringsi the voyager to
Memphis, the chief city of Tennessee, and the largest on the Mississippi between
St. Louis and New Orleans. It is situated on the fourth Chickasaw Bluff, 420 miles
below St. Louis, and 780 above New Orleans, and has a population of about 65,000.

Memphis.

The city presents a striking appearance as seen from the water, with its esplanade
several hundred feet in width, sweeping along the bluff, and covered with large
warehouses. The streets are broad and regular, and lined with handsome build
ings ; and many of the residences on the avenues leading from the river are sur-

THE LOWER MISSISSIPPI. 95
rounded with beautiful lawns. The city extends over 3 square miles. In the cen
tre there is a handsome park, filled with trees, and containing a bust of Andrew
Jackson. The principal of the six cemeteries is Elmwood, on the southeast border
of the city. Memphis has an immense railroad and steamboat traffic, a vast cotton
trade, and numerous manufactures. There are large hotels, two theatres seating
respectively 800 and 1,000 persons, fine churches and charitable institutions, excel
lent public and private schools, and a library with 9,000 volumes. Memphis was
captured by the Federals early in the war (June 6, 1862), and was never after held
by the Confederates.
A short distance below Memphis the Mississippi turns toward the west, and
crosses its valley to meet the waters of the Arkansas and AYhite Rivers. The lat
ter enters the Mississippi 161 miles below Memphis, and the former about 15 miles
farther down. The Arkansas River is a large stream 2,000 miles in length, for 800
of which it is navigable by steamers. It rises in the Rocky Mountains, and, next
to the Missouri, is the largest tributary of the Mississippi. The town of Napoleon
lies at its mouth. Near this point commences the great cotton-growing region, and
the banks of the river are an almost continuous succession of plantations. Fifty
miles below begins the growth of the Spanish moss, which, covering the trees with
its dark and sombre drapery, forms one of the most notable features of the river
scenery. Having received the waters of the two affluents above mentioned, the
Mississippi again crosses its valley to meet the Yazoo near Vicksburg, creating the
immense Yazoo reservoir on the east bank, extending from the vicinity of Mem
phis to Vicksburg, and the valleys and swamps of the Macon and Tensas on the
west side. Vicksburg is situated on the Walnut Hills, which extend for about 2 miles
along the river, rising to the height of 500 feet, and displaying the finest scenery of
the Lower Mississippi. It is a well-built city of 15,000 inhabitants, the largest be
tween New Orleans and Memphis, and about equidistant from both. As at Mem
phis, the view of the city from the water is in the highest degree picturesque and
animated, and the pleasing impression is confirmed by a closer examination of the
town. Vicksburg was founded in 1836 by a planter named Vick, members of
whose family are still living there. As the chief commercial mart on this portion
of the river, it has long been a place of some note, but it is more widely known as
the scene of one of the most obstinate and decisive struggles of the Civil War. After
the loss successively of Columbus, Memphis, and New Orleans, the Confederates
made here their last and most desperate stand for the control of the great river.
The place was surrounded by vast fortifications, the hills crowned with batteries,
and a large army under General Pemberton placed in it as a garrison. Its capture
by General Grant after a protracted siege (July 4, 1863) " broke the backbone of
the Confederacy and cut it in twain." Above Vicksburg, at the point where Sher
man made his entrance from the " Valley of Death," is the largest national cemetery
in the country, containing the remains of 16,000 soldiers.
From Vicksburg to Baton Rouge the river hugs the eastern bluffs, with Missis
sippi on one side and Louisiana on the other. Grand Gulf, in Mississippi, is a pretty
little town 60 miles below Vicksburg, lying upon some picturesque hills overhang
ing the river ; and Natchez, 60 miles nearer New Orleans, is built mostly upon a high
bluff, 200 feet above the level of the stream. That portion of the city lying on the
narrow strip of land between the foot of the hill and the river is called " Natehez-
under-the-Hill," and, though containing some important business-houses, can make
no claim to beauty. It communicates by broad and well-graded roads with the
upper town, called " Natchez-on-the-Hill," which is beautifully shaded, and contains
many handsome residences and other buildings. The streets are regular, lighted
with gas, and generally graveled in the roadway. The houses are principally of
brick, and the residences are adorned with gardens. The brow of the bluff along
the whole front of the city is occupied by a park. The principal buildings are the
Court-House, in a public square shaded with trees, the Masonic Temple, the Catholic
cathedral, with a spire 128 feet high, the Episcopal church, and the Presbyterian
church, with a spire containing a clock. The City Hall and the Market-House are
immediately back of the Court-House. In the suburbs there were formerly nu-

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HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.

merous residences of wealthy planters, expensively furnished, and surrounded with
beautiful lawns and gardens ; but many of these were destroyed in the Civil War.

Natchez.
On the bluff adjoining the city there is a national cemetery, handsomely laid out
and decorated. The climate of Natchez is pleasant and very salubrious ; the win
ters are temperate, though variable, and the summers long and equable. Natchez
was founded by D'fberville, a Frenchman, in 1700, and is replete with historic as
sociations. Here once lived and flourished the noblest tribe of Indians on the con
tinent, and from that tribe it takes its name. Their pathetic story is festooned
with the flowers of poetry and romance. Their ceremonies and creed were not un
like those of the Fire-worshipers of Persia. Their priests kept the fire continually
burning upon the altar in their Temple of the Sun, and the tradition is, that they
got the fire from heaven. Just before the advent of the white man, it is said, the
fire accidentally went out, and that was one reason why they became disheartened
in their struggles with the pale-faces. The last remnant of the race were still ex
isting a few years ago in Texas, and they still gloried in their paternity. It is proba
ble that the first explorer of the Lower Mississippi River, the unfortunate La Salle,
landed at this spot on his downward trip to the sea. It is a disputed point as to
where was the location of the first fort. Some say it lay back of the town, while
others say it was established at Ellis's Cliffs. In 1713, Bienville established a fort
and trading-post at this spot. The second, Fort Rosalie, or rather the broken pro
file of it, is still visible. It is gradually sinking, by the earth being undermined by
subterranean springs, and in a few years not a vestige of it will be left. Any one
now standing at the landing can see the different strata of earth distinctly marked,
showing the depth of the artificial earthworks.
The former capital of Louisiana, Baton Rouge, is pleasantly situated on the last
bluff that is seen in descending the Mississippi. The site is 30 to 40 feet above
the highest overflow of the river. The bluff rises by a gentle and gradual swell,
and the town, as seen from the water, rising regularly and beautifully from the
banks, with its singularly-shaped French and Spanish houses, and its queer squares,
looks like a finely-painted landscape. From Baton Rouge to New Orleans " the
coast," as it is called, is lined with plantations. Every spot susceptible of cultiva
tion is transformed into a beautiful garden, containing specimens of all those choice
fruits and flowers which flourish only in tropical climes. From the deck of the
steamer the traveler overlooks a kaleidoscopic succession of the most exquisite land
and water views; and when, at last, the steamer rounds the great bend of the river,
and he sees the "Crescent City" spread out before him, and knows that his long
journey is ended, he will probably experience a feeling of regret.

NEW ORLEANS. 97
New Orleans.
How to reach. — In the preceding paragraphs is described the method of reaching
New Orleans from St. Louis or Cincinnati by steamer down the Mississippi River.
From New York direct, New Orleans is reached by rail via " Great Southern Mail
Route:" Baltimore, Washington, Lynchburg, Bristol, Knoxville, Rome, Montgom
ery, and Mobile. Distance, 1,405 miles; time, 73 hours; fare, $47.50. Also via
preceding route to Knoxville, thence via Chattanooga, Corinth, Meridian, and
Mobile. Distance, 1,539 miles; time, 80 hours; fare, $47.50. Also via Baltimore,
Washington, Lynchburg, Danville, Charlotte, Atlanta, Montgomery, and Mobile.
Distance, 1,372 miles; time, 70 hours; fare, $47.50. By steamer from New York
on Wednesdays (from Pier 21 East River) and Saturdays (from Pier 5 and Pier 9
North River). Time, 7 days; fare (cabin), $50. From Philadelphia via semi-montb-
ly steamers, touching at Havana. Time, 11 days; fare, $60. From Baltimore via
semi-monthly steamers, touching at Havana and Key West. Time, 8 days ; fare, $50.
From Louisville by rail, via Memphis and Jackson.
Hotels, Restaurants, and Clubs. — The St. Charles Hotel ($4.50 a day), bounded by
St. Charles, Gravier, and Common Streets, is one of the institutions of New Orleans,
and one of the largest and finest hotels in the United States. The St. James Hotel
($2.50 a day), in Magazine Street, between Gravier and Natchez, is a large, comfort
able, and well-kept house. The City Hotel ($2.50 a day), at the corner of Camp and
Common Streets, is much frequented by merchants and planters. All the hotels
make considerably lower rates to guests remaining a week or more. Good board
may be obtained in all parts of the city at rates ranging from $8 to $20 a week.
For particulars consult the advertising columns of the morning papers.
Of restaurants, New Orleans is said to have the best in America; in many of
them is still practised the famous Creole cuisine of ante- war times. The most noted
are Moreau's, in Canal Street; Victor's, 38 and 40 Bourbon Street ; John's, 16 and
18 Bourbon Street; Antoine's, 65 St. Louis Street; and Denechaud's, 8 Carondelet
Street. In the French quarter, cafes are to be found in nearly every block.
There are about twenty clubs in the city, prominent among which are the Bos
ton, the Pickwick, the Shakespeare, and the Jockey Club. The Jockey Club has a
fine house and beautifully decorated and cultivated grounds near the fair-ground.
The Shakespeare Club gives occasional dramatic entertainments which are always
largely and fashionably attended. The privileges of these as well as of the Social
Club are obtained by introduction by a member.
Location, Climate, and History. — New Orleans, the capital, chief city, and commer
cial metropolis of Louisiana, is situated on both banks (but chiefly on the left) of the
Mississippi River, 100 miles above its mouth, in latitude 29° 57' north and longitude
90° west. The older portion of the city is built within a great bend of the river,
from which circumstance it derives its familiar sobriquet of the " Crescent City."
In the progress of its growth up-stream, it has now so extended itself as to follow
long curves in opposite directions, so that the river-front on the left bank presents an
outline somewhat resembling the letter S. The statutory limits of the city embrace
an area of nearly 150 square miles, but the actual city covers an area of about 41
square miles. It is built on land gently descending from the river toward a marshy
tract in the rear, and from 2 to 4 feet below the level of the river at high-water
mark, which is prevented from overflowing by a vast embankment of earth, called
the Levee. This Levee is 15 feet wide and 14 feet high, is constructed for a great
distance along the river-bank, and forms a delightful promenade during the fall and
winter months.
The climate of New Orleans is more severe in winter than that of corresponding
latitudes on the Atlantic coast, owing to the cold north winds; and the variations
of temperature are too great and too sudden to entitle it to be considered as pro
pitious for invalids. According to observations taken in 1873, the mean temperature
of the year at New Orleans is 67.55°. The mean temperature of the hottest month
was 82.40°, and of the coldest month (January), 49.5°. The mercury often falls
below the freezing-point, and variations of fifteen degrees in a day are not unusual.

98

HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.

The rainfall is heavy, amounting to 72.81 inches per year, and the low-lying situa
tion of the city — lower than the surface of the river — adds the aggravation of ex
ceptional dampness to its other climatic drawbacks. For these reasons, New Or
leans cannot be recommended as a winter residence for those suffering from pul
monary or throat diseases; and consumptives, especially those in advanced stages of
the disease, should avoid even a brief stay. In other respects New Orleans is a
healthy city, and its winters, in spite of occasional inclemency, are so much more
genial than those of our Northern States, that many resort there during the three
coldest months, and not a few who are in the " weak lungs " and " general debility "
stages of disease are benefited by the change. Numerous visitors from the North
are attracted thither by the social and other attractions of the place ; for, with the
possible exception of San Francisco, New Orleans is the most variedly interesting
city in the United States.
The site of New Orleans was surveyed in 1717 by De la Tour ; it was settled in
1718, but abandoned in consequence of overflows, storms, and sickness; was reset
tled in 1723, held by the French till 1729, then by the Spanish till 1801, and by the
French again till 1803, when, with the province of Louisiana, it was ceded to the
United States. It was incorporated as a city in 1804, and in 1868 was made the
capital of the State. The most memorable events in the history of New Orleans
are the battle of January 8, 1815, in which the British were defeated by Andrew
Jackson, and the capture of the city by Admiral Farragut on April 24, 1862. In
1810, seven years after its cession to the United States, the population of New Or
leans was 17,243. In 1850 it had increased to 116,375 ; in 1860, to 168,675 ; and in
1870, to 191,418. In 1875 local authorities estimated it at about 210,000.— In the
value of its exports and its entire foreign commerce New Orleans ranks next to New
York, though several ports surpass it in the value of imports. Not unfrequently
from 1,000 to 1,500 steamers and other vessels may be seen lying at the Levee;
and, except in the summer months, its wharves are thronged with hundreds of ships
and sailing-craft from all quarters of the globe. New Orleans is the chief cotton-

New Orleans.
mart of the world; and, besides cotton, it. sends abroad sugar, rice, tobacco, flour,
pork, etc., to the total value in 1874 of $93,715,710. Its imports of coffee, sugar,
salt, iron, dry-goods, liquors, etc., amounted in 1874 to 114,533,864. The manufact
ures of the city are not extensive.
Modes of Conveyance. — The horse-car system of New Orleans is perhaps the most
complete in the country. Starting from the central avenue — Canal Street;  tracks

NEW ORLEANS.

99

:j»

radiate to all parts of the city and suburbs, and passengers are carried to any point
within the city limits for 5 cents. Omnibuses attend the arrival of trains and
steamers, and convey passengers to the hotels, etc. (fare 50 cents). Carriages can
be found at the stands in front of the St. Charles and other leading hotels (fare $2
an hour ; $5 for the forenoon or afternoon.) The best plan for strangers is to hire a
suitable conveyance by the hour and discharge at the end of each trip. Ferries
connect the city with Algiers, Macdonough, and Gretna, on the opposite side of
the river.
Streets and Drives. — The streets of New Orleans, in width and general appearance,
are second to those of no city of its size. As far back as
Claiborne Street those running parallel to the river and to
each other present an unbroken line from the lower to the
upper limits of the city, a distance of about 12 miles. Those
at right angles to them run from the Mississippi toward the
lake with more regularity than might be expected from the
very sinuous course of the river. Many of the streets are
well paved and some are shelled ; but many are unpaved
and consequently scarcely usable in wet weather, while in
dry weather they are intolerably dusty. Some of the finest
streets of the city are in this condition. Canal Street is the
main business thoroughfare and promenade, and contains
many fine stores and private residences. It is nearly 200
feet wide, and has a grass-plot, 25 feet wide and bordered
with two rows of trees, extending in the centre through its
whole length. Claiborne, Rampart, St. Charles, and Espla
nade Streets, are similarly embellished. Royal, Rampart,
and Esp la na de
Streets, are the prin
cipal promenades of
the French quarter.
— The favorite drive
is out the Shell Road
to Lake Pontchar-
train, or over a simi
lar road to Carrollton.
Either route presents
a highly - animated
spectacle on Sunday
afternoons. Public and Promi
nent Buildings. — New
Orleans is not rich in
architecture, but
there are a few impos
ing buildings. Chief among these is the Custom- House, which, next to the Capitol at
Washington, is the largest building in the United States. This noble structure is
built of Quincy granite brought from the Massachusetts quarries. Its main front on
Canal Street is 334 feet; that on Custom-House Street, 252 feet; on the new Levee,
310 feet, and on the old Levee, 297 feet. Its height is 82 feet. The Long Room,
or chief business apartment, is 116 by 90 feet, and is lighted by 50 windows. The
building was begun in 1848, and is not yet entirely finished. The Post-Office occu
pies the basement of the Custom-House, and is one of the most elegant and com
modious in the country. The State-House is located in St. Louis Street, between
Royal and Chartres Streets. Prior to 1874 the building was known as the St. Louis
Hotel, and held the same high rank as the St. Charles. The old dining-hall is one of
the most beautiful rooms in the country, and the great inner circle of the dome is richly
frescoed with allegorical scenes and busts of eminent Americans. The United States
Branch Mint stands at the corner of Esplanade and Old Levee Streets. It is built

Canal Street.

100

HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.

United States Mint.

of brick, stuccoed in imitation of brown -stone, in the Ionic style, and, being 282
feet long, 180 feet deep, and three stories high, presents an imposing appearance.
No coining has been done there since the war, but Congress has taken steps to re
commence operations. The window, under the front portico of the main building,
from which Mumford was hung by order of General Butler, June 7, 1862, is still
pointed out. The City Hall, at the intersection of St. Charles and Lafayette Streets,
is the most artistic of the public buildings of the city. It is of white marble, in the
Ionic style, with a wide and high flight of granite steps leading to an elegant portico
supported by eight
columns. The State
and City Libraries
occupy sui table
rooms in this build
ing. The Court -
Houses are on the
right and left of the
Cathedral, in Jack
son Square. They
were constructed .
toward the close of
the last century,
through the liberal
ity of the founder of
the Cathedral, Don
Andre Almonaster,
and are conspicuous
for their quaint style
of architecture, which is Tusco-Doric. The City Prisons, which comprise a parish
jail and a police jail, are in Orleans and Ann Streets, opposite the Trem6 Market.
They are of brick, plastered to imitate granite, and three stories high. The Mer
chants' Exchange, a handsome marble structure in Royal Street near Canal, was for
merly a place of great resort, hut since the removal of the Post-Office to the Cus
tom-House its glory has departed, and it exists now in little more than name.
Masonic Hall, corner St. Charles and Perdido Streets, is an imposing edifice, 103
by 100 feet. Odd-Fellows' Hall is a massive square structure in Camp Street, op
posite Lafayette Square. It is of brick, stuccoed and painted white, four stories
high, and cost $210,000. St. Patrick's Hall, on the site of the old Odd-Fellows'
Hall, is one of the most elegant buildings in the city. Its concert-room seats 3,500
people. Exposition Hall is a spacious building in St. Charles Street, between Julia
and Girod, in which are given floral displays and other exhibitions. The St. Charles
Hotel and the State-House, which are among the largest and finest edifices in the city,
have already been mentioned. The Mechanics' Institute, in Dryades Street, near
Canal, is one of the finest buildings in the city. The Pontalba Buildings are im
mense brick structures on Jackson Square.
Theatres and Places of Amusement. — The French Opera-House, corner Bourbon and
Toulouse Streets, is a well-arranged building of modern construction. It has seats
for 2,000, and is fitted up in the style of the Theatre Francais, Paris. The Academy
of Music, in St. Charles Street, between Poydras and Commercial Streets, is the
usual place for star performances. The St. Charles Theatre, in St. Charles Street,
between Perdido and Poydras, is handsomely appointed, and has a good company.
The National for Globe) Theatre is at the corner of Perdido and Baronne Streets,
and the Varieties Theatre in Canal Street. Besides the theatres, there are a score
or more of halls in which entertainments of various kinds are given. The principal
of these are the Masonic Hall, Odd-Fellows' Hall, St. Patrick's Hall, and Exposition
Hall, previously mentioned ; and Grilnewald Hall, in Baronne Street, near Canal.
Horse-races occur at the Fair-Grounds race-track (reached by Shell Road and 3 lines
of horse-cars). Besides the regular sources of amusement which it enjoys in common with other

NEW ORLEANS. 101
cities, New Orleans is noted for its great displays during the holiday and carnival
season. Among the many societies which contribute to these displays, the most
famous are the Twelfth-Night Revellers, who appear on the night of January
6th, and the Mystick Krewe of Comus, who appear on the night of "Mardi Gras,"
or Shrove-Tuesday. On the same day (Shrove-Tuesday), Rex, King of the Carnival,
arrives with a large retinue, takes formal possession of the city for the nonce, and
makes a grand display, followed by his staff, courtiers, and attendants, all mounted
and dressed in the most gorgeous Oriental costumes. The processions are followed
by receptions, tableaux, and balls, which are largely attended by the elite of the
city, and by strangers sojourning there, who in some mysterious manner are always
the recipients of unique cards of invitation.
Churches. — The most famous church edifice in New Orleans is the old Cathedral of
St. Louis (Roman Catholic), which stands in Chartres Street, on the east side of
Jackson Square. It has an imposing facade surmounted by a lofty steeple and
flanked by two towers, each surmounted by a smaller steeple. The foundation was
laid in 1792, and the building completed in 1794 by Don Andre Almonaster, perpet
ual regidor of the province. It was altered and enlarged in 1850, from designs by
De Louilly. The paintings on the roof of the building are by Canova and Rossi.
The Church of the Immaculate Conception (Jesuit), corner Baronne and Common
Streets, is a striking edifice in the Moorish style of architecture. High-mass, both
here and at the Cathedral, at 10 o'clock every Sunday. St. Patrick's (Roman
Catholic) is a fine Gothic structure in Camp Street, north of Lafayette Square. Its
tower, 190 feet high, was modeled after that of the famous minster at York, Eng
land. The church of St. John the Baptist, in Dryades Street, between Clio and Calli
ope, which was opened in 1872, is a very elegant building. The most fashionable
Episcopal churches are Trinity, corner Jackson aud Coliseum Streets, and St. Paul's,
corner Camp and Gaiennie Streets. The latter is a handsome specimen of the Gothic
style, and has a rich interior. The oldest of the Episcopal organizations, dating
back to 1806, is Christ Church, corner Canal and Dauphin Streets. The First Pres
byterian, fronting on Lafayette Square, is a fine structure in the Greco-Doric style,
much admired for its elegant steeple. The McGhee Church, in Carondelet Street,
near Lafayette, is the principal of the Methodist Episcopal churches South. The
Unitarian Church, corner St. Charles and Julia Streets, is a handsome building. The
Temple Sinai (Jewish synagogue), in Carondelet Street, near Calliope, is one of the
finest places of worship in the city. Party-colored bricks and pointing give its walls
a light, airy appearance, and it has a handsome portico, flanked by two towers
capped with tinted cupolas. The Gothic windows are filled with beautifully-stained
glass. St. Antoine's Chapel, corner Rampart and Conti Streets, is generally known
as the "Mortuary Chapel," all funeral ceremonies of resident Catholics being per
formed here. One of the most interesting relics of the early church history of New
Orleans is the old Ursuline Convent in Conde Street. This quaint and venerable
building was erected in 1787, during the reign of Carlos III., by Don Andre
Almonaster. It is now occupied by the bishop, and is known as the " Bishop's
Palace." Educational and Charitable Institutions. — The University of Louisiana is in Common
Street, near Baronne, and occupies the entire front of the block. Only two depart
ments, law and medicine, have been organized, hut these are of a very high order,
and are largely attended. The Medical College, which stands in the centre of the
block, has a fagade of 100 feet. It contains a large anatomical museum, and exten
sive and valuable collections of many kinds. Straight University is exclusively for
colored students, and gives instruction of good grammar-school grade. There are
80 public schools, and numerous private ones, mostly Roman Catholic.
The Charity Hospital, in Common Street, is one of the noblest buildings in the
city, and one of the most famous institutions of the kind in the country. It was
founded in 1784, has stood on its present site since 1832, and has accommodations
for 500 patients. The Hotel Bieu, i mile farther back from the river, is a very fine
hospital established by the Sisters of Charity, and supported entirely by receipts
from patients, some of whom are, nevertheless, beneficiary. It occupies a full

102 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.
square, and is surrounded by a well-kept garden of shrubbery and flowers. The
Maison de Sante, corner Canal and Claiborne Streets, long one of the most noted
infirmaries of New Orleans, is now deserted, and, like the United States Marine
Hospital (corner Common and Broad Streets), which has not been used since 1860,
is rapidly falling into decay. Other prominent charitable institutions are the Poy
dras Female Orphan Asylum, in Magazine Street, the St. Anna's Widows' Asylum,
the St. Vincent Orphan Asylum, the Indigent Colored Orphan Asylum, and the
German Protestant Asylum. The ruins of the Touro Almshouse, burned during the
war by colored troops, who had used it for barracks, occupy a prominent locale on
the Levee at the lower end of the city.
Public Squares and Cemeteries. — There are 10 public squares in the city, most of
them inclosed with iron railings, hut some barely more than in embryo. The largest
of these inclosures is the City Park, near the northeast boundary (reached by Canal
Street and Ridge Road cars). It embraces 150 acres, tastefully laid out, but is little
frequented. Jackson Square (formerly known as the Place d'Armes), covering the
centre of the river-front of the old Town Plot, now First District, is the favorite
resort. It is adorned with beautiful trees and shrubbery, and shell-strewed paths,
and in the centre stands Mill's equestrian statue of General Jackson. The imposing
fronts of the cathedral and courts of justice are seen to great advantage from the
river-entrance to the square. Lafayette Square, in the First District, bounded by
St. Charles and Camp Streets, is another handsome inclosure. The fine marble front
of the City Hall, the tapering spire of the Presbyterian Church, and the massive fa-
gade of Odd-Fellows' Hall, present a striking appearance. In the square is a fine
white-marble statue of Franklin, by Hiram Powers. In Canal Street, between St.
Charles and Royal, is a colossal bronze statue of Henry Clay, by Hart. Douglas
Square is beautifully laid out and well kept. Annunciation Square and Tivoli Circle,
at the head of St. Charles Street, are worth a visit. There are some handsome
private residences in the neighborhood of the former.
The Cemeteries of New Orleans are noteworthy for their unique arrangement
and peculiar modes of interment. From the nature of the soil, which is semi-fluid
at a depth of 2 or 3 feet below the surface, all the tombs are above-ground. Some
of these are very costly and beautiful structures, of marble, iron, etc. ; but the great
majority consist of cells, placed one above another, generally to the height of 7 or
8 feet. Each cell is only large enough to receive the coffin, and is hermetically
bricked up at its narrow entrance as soon as the funeral rites are over. In most
instances a marble tablet, appropriately inscribed, is placed over the brickwork by
which the vault (or " oven," as it is called here) is closed. There are 33 cemeteries
in and near the city ; of these the Cypress Grove and Greenwood, on the Metairie
Ridge, at the north end of Canal Street, are best worth visiting. St. Louis Cemetery
No. 1, at the corner of Basin and St. Louis Streets, contains some fine monuments,
of which the more noteworthy are the vaults of the' " Societe Francaise de Bien-
faisance,'_' " Orleans Battalion of Artillery," and " Italian Benevolent Society."
The last is of white marble, and is one of the most beautiful structures of its kind in
the country.
The Markets and the Levee.— The great " sight " of New Orleans, and perhaps the
most picturesque to be seen in America, is the French Market, which comprises
several buildings on the Levee, near Jackson Square. The best time to visit it is
between 8 and 9 o'clock on Sunday morning, or at 6 a. m. on other days. At break
of day the gathering commences, and it would seem as if all nations and tongues
were represented in the motley crowd which surges in and out until near 10 o'clock.
The noise, far from being unpleasant, however, is musical to the stranger's ears ;
and nowhere else will he find such an infinite variety of articles exposed for sale.
Fruits are especially abundant and various, embracing all the products of both tem-
p.erate and tropical regions, and the flowers are wonderful to behold. French is the
prevailing language, and it will be heard in every variety, from the silvery elegance
of the polished Creole to the childish jargon of the negroes. The Levee affords the
visitor one of the most striking and characteristic sights of the Crescent City. For
extent and activity it has no equal on the continent. The best points from which

THE RIVER BELOW NEW ORLEANS. 103
to obtain a view of the city and its environs are the roof of the St. Charles Hotel
and the tower of St. Patrick's Church. The public markets transact their business
at the Abattoir, constructed by a corporate company styled " The Crescent City
Live-Stock Landing and Slaughter-House Company." It is situated on the left
river-bank, adjacent to the lower line of the city. The establishment comprises 2
cattle-landing wharves; 12 covered cattle-pens, each having an area of over 1,000
square feet; 28 open pens, each with an area of about 1,125 square feet; 18 other
pens for sheep, hogs, etc. ; 2 receiving-pens, each of an area of 600 square feet, for
cattle to be immediately slaughtered ; a slaughter-house for cattle, in 22 divisions,
each of an area of 800 square feet ; a slaughter-house for smaller animals, well sup
plied with hot as well as cold water, and covering an area of 21,200 square feet ;
and 22 stables. These buildings are separated from each other by wide and well-
constructed causeways, and are lofty and airy. Attached to them are two steam-
engines by which a plentiful supply of water is commanded, and the fluid offal is
pumped off; also covered hide-vats, an apparatus for the rapid curing of hides, and a
Barbarin patent gas-apparatus for lighting the whole establishment. Several dwellings
and other buildings are also comprised within the property of the Slaughter-House
Company. The average number of cattle slaughtered is about 1,000 a day in winter
and about 700 a day in summer. The slaughtering of any of these animals else
where within the city limits is prohibited by law. An inspector, appointed by the
Governor, examines all cattle killed, and certifies to their fitness for food.
Suburbs. — The Battle-field, the scene of General Jackson's great victory over the
British, January 8, 1815, is the most interesting spot in the vicinity of New Orleans.
It lies 4J miles south of Canal Street, and may he reached either by carriage along
the Levee or by horse-cars. It is washed by the waters of the Mississippi, and sur
rounded by cypress-swamps and canebrakes. A marble monument, 70 feet high
and yet unfinished, occupies a suitable site overlooking the ground, and serves to
commemorate the victory. A National Cemetery occupies the southwest corner of
the field. Between the Battle-field and the city the Vrsuline Convent, an imposing
building, 200 feet long, overlooks the river. A nunnery and chapel are attached to
the convent. Lake Pontchartrain, 5 miles north of the city, is famous for its fish
and game. It is 40 miles long and 24 miles wide. It is reached by the Lake Rail
way every hour, by drive on the Shell Road, and by two lines of horse-cars. The
swamps which lie between the city and the lake are covered with a thick growth of
cypress and other trees peculiar to this locality. Carrollton, in the northern suburbs,
has many fine public gardens and private residences. Algiers, opposite New Or
leans, has extensive dry-docks and ship-yards. Communication by ferry. Gretna,
on the same side, is a pretty rural spot, abounding in pleasant, shady walks.
The River below New Orleans.
Those who, taking an ocean steamer, pursue the journey below New Orleans,
traverse a portion of the river not less interesting if less attractive than that left
behind. Very soon after leaving the city the phenomena of a " delta-country "
become conspicuous, and one can fairly witness the eternal and ever-varying con
flict between land and sea. The thick forest vegetation disappears, giving place to
isolated and stunted trees ; the river-banks grow less and less defined, and finally
lose themselves in what appears to be an interminable marsh; and through this
marsh the "passes" furnish channels to the Gulf, which are discernible only by
the practised eyes of the pilots. The " delta " protrudes into the Gulf of Mexico
far beyond the general coast-line, and is slowly but imperceptibly advancing into
the Gulf by the shoaling caused by the deposition of the sediment brought down by
the river. It is impossible, however, for the inexperienced traveler to say where
land ends and sea begins ; and before he is aware of having reached the " mouth "
of the river, he is far out on the Gulf of Mexico, where a muddy surface-current is
the only relic of the mighty Father of Waters.

]04 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.

THE WEST INDIES.
Just off the southern coast of Florida, and stretching across the entrance to the
Gulf of Mexico, lies a very extensive group of islands, which, though their sov
ereignty is distributed among nearly all the leading European powers, are known
collectively as " The West Indies," and are so laid down upon the maps. The total
length of this group is upward of 3,000 miles, and it embraces more than 1,000
islands and islets, with a total area of about 150,000 square miles. They lie between
lat. 10° and 28° north and Ion. 59° and 85° west, and are divided into four groups:
1. The Bahamas, about 600 in number, low, flat islands of coral formation, southeast
of Florida, and extending toward Hayti; 2. The Greater Antilles, between the
Bahamas and Central America, comprising the four great islands of Cuba, Hayti or
San Domingo, Jamaica, and Porto Rico, with a few neighboring small ones; 3. The
Lesser Antilles or Caribbean Islands, extending in a semi-circular line from Porto
Rico to ffhe mouth of the Orinoco, and by some geographers also called collectively
Windward Islands ; 4. The group off the coast of Venezuela (the Leeward Islands
of the Spanish explorers), embracing Margarita, Tortuga, Buen Ayre, Curacoa, and
several smaller islands. The West Indies are generally considered to he the remains
of a mountain-range which at some remote period united the continents of North
and South America. The Bahamas are low, level, and of coralline formation.
Some of the Lesser Antilles are flat, but the general character of the entire group is
bold, with a single mountain or cluster of mountains in the centre, which slope to
the sea all around — more precipitously on the east side, which is exposed to the
force of the Atlantic current. Volcanic action in the archipelago is confined to the
smaller islands ; others possess craters recently extinct, that have vomited ashes and
lava within historical periods. The latest violent eruption was in St. Vincent, in
1812 ; but, more remotely, Hayti and Jamaica have been the scene of some of the
most tremendous earthquakes on record. Hurricanes occur nearly every year, and
are sometimes very destructive, especially in the Lesser Antilles. The characteristic
feature of the vegetation of the West Indies is the predominance of ferns and orchi
daceous plants. The forests furnish mahogany, lignum- vitrje, granadilla, rosewood,
and other valuable woods. Tropical fruits abound ; and maize, sugar, coffee, tobacco,
and cotton, are extensively cultivated. Of the formerly-existing wild animals — the
agouti, peccary, raccoon, and wild-boar — the last only remains. Birds are numerous,
and their characteristics are, beautiful and varied plumage and lack of song. Fish
are very abundant, as are also reptiles, including turtles, lizards, and snakes. Insects.
and reptiles are the pests of the islands.
San Salvador, one of the Bahamas, was the first land discovered in America,
Columbus having landed on it in October, 1492; and it was not until the next
voyage of the great navigator that the American continent was discovered. When
first visited, all these islands teemed with a dense native population ; but the natives
were speedily exterminated by the early Spanish colonists, and for many generations
have been wholly extinct. Some of the smaller islands are barren and uninhabited,
hut for the most part they are covered with a vegetation of tropical luxuriance
and beauty. Owing to their generally delightful climate, the West Indies have for
many years been the resort, especially in winter, of consumptives and other invalids
from the United States. In the following pages we shall describe those places
which are most frequented and most easily accessible to travelers.
Cuba.
Cuba, "The Queen of the Antilles," the largest and most important of the West
India Islands, lies between the Caribbean Sea and the Gulf of Mexico, about 130
miles south of Florida, from which it is separated by the Strait of Florida. The
greatest length of the island from east to west is 760 miles, and its width varies
from 20 to 135 miles, the total area being 47,278 square miles. In shape it is long,
narrow, and slightly curved, the convex side being on the north. The entire coast-

CUBA. 105
line is about 2,200 miles in extent, but, owing to the almost continuous reefs, and the
low level of the land skirting the sea-shore, it is in general very difficult of approach,
and there are but few really good harbors. A range of mountains, more or less
broken, traverses the island from end to end, dividing it into two unequal sections,
that on the north side being for the most part the narrower of the two. This range
gives great diversity to the surface, and from the bases of the highlands the country
opens into extensive meadows or beautiful plains and savannas, with occasionally
some low, swampy tracts. There are very few rivers of any magnitude in Cuba,
and a large portion of the territory is subject to severe droughts ; yet the gently
undulating surface, the continually renewed verdure, and the wonderful distribution
of vegetable forms, give rise to the. most varied and beautiful landscapes. Every
where the eye falls only upon a mass of luxuriant vegetation, and nowhere is the
structure of the country to be seen except on the scarred and treeless mountain-
slopes. Coming in winter from the North Atlantic seaboard, where half the United
States are buried in snow, and the forests are stripped naked, the traveler finds in Cuba
a more wooing climate, and a more bountiful profusion and luxuriance of vegetable
growth, than even in imagination he ever pictured to himself. The climate is warm
aud dry during the greater part of the year, but it is more temperate than in other
islands of the same latitude, and more equable than in many more northern coun
tries. The thermometer never rises so high as it sometimes does in New York in
the hot months, and sunstrokes are unknown. From May to October the heat sel
dom reaches 100° Fahrenheit in any part of the island. The highest recorded
temperature, in observations extending over many years since 1801, was 104°. In
December and January the air is cooled by the north winds, and the thermometer
has occasionally fallen to the freezing-point. The average temperature of Havana
is 77° ; maximum 89° ; minimum, 50°. The average temperature of the hottest
month is 82°, and of the coldest 72°. In Santiago de Cuba the average of the year
is 80° ; of the hottest month, 84° ; of the coldest, 73°. The topographical position
of Cuba reduces the four seasons of the year to two, the wet and the dry. In the
former, extending from May or June to November, the rain pours down in torrents
almost every day. The rainfall in the island in one year has been known to reach
133 inches, and the average annual number of rainy days is 102. The most rain
falls in September and October. In the dry season the dews are very abundant,
both at night and in the early morning. There is no record of snow having fallen
in Cuba, excepting on December 24, 25, 1856, when the coldest term ever' known
on the island was experienced, and snow fell near Villa Clara, in the central part
of the island ; but hailstorms are frequent in the eastern department, and hoar-frosts
are not uncommon. Violent thunder-storms occur from June to September.
Earthquakes are seldom felt in the western districts, but are frequent in the eastern,
especially in the vicinity of Santiago de Cuba. The climate is considered to be, in
general, remarkably healthy. In the lowlands, summer fevers sometimes prevail,
and to these strangers are said to be especially liable; hut the higher parts of
the island are salubrious all the year round. The yellow fever is justly feared by
those coming from more temperate climates, but the Cuban physicians believe
that this disease is not indigenous, and was not known in the islaud until 1762. It
is not yet known in the interior, and its appearance at many places is recent. The
best time to visit Cuba is between the first of December and the last of March, and
during this period those suffering from lung and throat diseases usually find a resi
dence there highly beneficial and agreeable.
Havana, the largest city and chief commercial port of the West Indies, is situated
on the northwest coast of Cuba, on a beautiful bay of the Gulf of Mexico. Its har
bor, formed by this bay, which nowhere exceeds a mile and a half in width, is one
of the best in the world, being deep enough for vessels of the largest size, capacious
enough to accommodate at least 1,000 ships-of-war, and so sheltered that vessels ride
securely without cable or anchor. The approach from the sea is very impressive,
the entrance to the harbor being half a mile in length, so narrow that only a single
vessel can pass at a time, and with massive fortifications on either side throughout
the whole distance. At the mouth of the channel, which is less than a quarter of a

106 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.
mile wide, are two strong castles, the Punta on the west side, connected with another
castle in the city, and on the east the famous Morro Castle, beetling with artillery, and
surmounted by a fixed light 144 feet high. La Cabana, situated a little southeast
of Morro Castle, is the strongest fortress of Havana, and half a dozen others are
passed before the inner harbor is reached. The city, as viewed from the harbor,

Havana.
has a very picturesque and beautiful appearance, with its numerous spires, its mas
sive edifices, its wide-spreading suburbs, and its background of hills ; but this im
pression is hardly confirmed by closer acquaintance. The city stands on a sort of
peninsula, formed on one side by the bay and on the other by the waters of the
Gulf, and is commonly distinguished into two portions, the intramural or old town,
and the extramural or new town, beyond the walls. In the former, the streets,
though for the most part regular and well paved, are extremely narrow, and, being
lowest in the middle, favor the accumulation of great pools of water in the rainy
season ; and the sidewalks are barely wide enough for one pedestrian. The macad
amized thoroughfares of the other portion, rather resembling roads than streets, are
broad and ample, and fringed on either side with rows of graceful palm-trees. The
prevailing style of architecture is identical with that of the south of Spain. The
houses are solidly built of stone, with very thick walls, often painted within and
without in showy colors, especially blue, green, or yellow, and occasionally a min
gling of all three ; they are either of one story and roofed with tiles, or of two stories
with a flat roof of substantial masonry, at times surmounted by a mirador (lookout),
affording at once a fine view and a cool and agreeable retreat after sunset. The
windows, which are extremely high, are never glazed, but defended on the outside
by strong iron bars, and within by wooden shutters secured, like the doors, with
massive bars or bolts. The doors, almost always double, are very ponderous, and
open either directly into the sola or parlor, or into a large gateway guarded by a
janitor, and leading into an open patio (court-yard) whence a spacious staircase leads
to the apartments above. All the rooms open upon a covered veranda, which sur
rounds the patio. In the dwellings of the rich the floors and stairs are usually of
marble, the decorations and furniture luxurious and tasteful, and the patio is gener
ally embellished with a parterre of exotic flowers and an elegant fountain in the cen
tre. Many of the residences in the new portion of the city are constructed in a
more modern style, particularly in El Cerro (the Hill), a handsome street three miles

CUBA. 107
long leading to a village of the same name, and chiefly inhabited by the wealthy
and fashionable. There is, however, no quarter of the town exclusively occupied
by the higher classes, and in any street a miserable hovel may be seen side by side
with a stately mansion.
The handsomest portion of Havana is in the vicinity of the great central square,
or Plaza de Armas, which comprises four gardens, with a statue of Ferdinand VII.
in the centre, and spacious walks bordered by magnificent palms and other trees.
On the west side of the plaza is the Governor's Palace, a yellow two-story edifice,
with a handsome colonnade in front, and containing the offices of the captain-gen
eral, his staff, and of the other Government departments. Opposite the palace is a
beautiful chapel (El Templete), erected on the spot where the first mass was cele
brated in Havana after the removal of the city to its present site, in 1519. Fore
most among the public edifices is the Cathedral, erected in 1724, and used as a col
lege by the Jesuits till 1789 ; hut it is less remarkable for the beauty of its archi
tecture than as containing the ashes of Christopher Columbus, transferred thither
from Santo Domingo, January 15, 1796. On one of the walls is a stone slab with
the bust of Columbus in relief, and an inscription beneath. There are fifteen other
churches, nine of which are attached to certain monastic orders. Two — Santa Ca-
talina and San Juan de Dias — date from the sixteenth century ; one — San Agus-
tin — from the beginning of the seventeenth ; and all are noteworthy for the rich
ness and splendor of their decorations. The Custom-House, fronting on the hay, is
a spacious building, devoid of architectural interest; but the Customs Warehouse,
formerly the church of San Francisco, has the loftiest tower in the city. Other
buildings or public establishments worthy of notice are the Admiralty, the Ex
change, the Royal University, the Prison (a vast quadrangular structure, erected in
1771, near the mouth of the bay), and the Real Casa de Beneficencia, a large build
ing, with beautiful grounds, and comprising an orphan asylum and an asylum for
vagrants. There is also a hospital for those afflicted with a species of leprosy pecul
iar to the West Indies, and reputed incurable ; a lying-in, a charity, and a military
hospital, and an insane asylum. Monasteries and nunneries are numerous. Havana
has three theatres, one of which, the Tacon Theatre, is said to be equal in size to
La Scala, of Milan ; an arena for bull-fights, this amusement being still popular in
Havana ; a gymnasium, a circus, and a number of well-arranged and commodious
public baths. Of the eight hotels, we may mention the Hotel de Inglaterra, in the
Calle del Prado, beside the Tacon Theatre, and affording an excellent view of the
harbor; El Telegrafo, in the newer part of the city, in Amistad Street; and San
Carlos, overlooking the harbor. Madame Almy's is a very popular boarding-house.
Restaurants and cafes are numerous; the best of the former is at 72 Cuba Street.
Few cities in the world have a larger number of paseos, or public promenades,
and public parks, than Havaua. Besides the Plaza de Armas, already mentioned,
there is the Alameda de Paula, bordering the bay, and having an elegant fountain,
surmounted by a marble column, with military trophies and national symbols. A
favorite evening resort is the Parque de Isabel, tastefully laid out, and having in the
centre a statue of Isabella II. The Campo de Marte, used as a drill-ground for the
military, is a large inclosure resembling a trapezium in shape, the longest side of
which is 375 feet ; it has four handsome gates, distinguished respectively by the
names Colon, Cortes, Pizarro, and Tacon. The Paseo de Tacon is a magnificent
wide drive, with double rows of trees, a promenade for pedestrians, and profusely
embellished with columns and statues, some of the latter, especially one of Charles
III., ranking among the finest specimens of art in America. Adjoining this prom
enade is a beautiful gate opening into the Botanic Garden, in which are specimens
of countless tropical plants ; and besides these gardens are the magnificent grounds
attached to the quinta, or country residence, of the captain-general. Other paseos,
such as those of La Reina, El Prado, La Cortina de V aides, and El Salon de O'Don-
nel, vie in beauty of scenery with those enumerated. In the vicinity of the city are
numerous places of fashionable resort, such as Marianao, Puentes Grandes, and
Guanabacoa. In consequence of the heat of the climate, the inhabitants of Havana,
save the business community, remain in-doors during the day ; but in the evening

108

HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.

the delightful promenades of the city and its environs present a most animated
spectacle, being thronged with the gay and fashionable of both sexes. The elegant
dress, grace, and beauty of the Havanese ladies (who always ride when abroad) dis
played on these occasions, and at the theatres, seldom fail to elicit the admiration
of visitors. There are also many beautiful drives around Havana, and driving is
one of the favorite recreations of the wealthier classes. A popular drive is to
Marianao. On Sunday afternoons all Havana may be seen driving on the Paseo.
From New York Havana may be reached by "New York and Havana Direct
Mail Line," sailing every ten days from Pier 13 North River; also by " Alexandre's
Line," sailing every Wednesday, and occasionally on Saturdays, from Pier 3 North
River (fare, cabin, $50 gold). From Philadelphia, Baltimore, or New Orleans, by
weekly steamers. From Key West, Florida, by steamers sailing twice weekly.
Havana is the terminal point of nearly all the railway-lines in Cuba, and connects
by steamer with Matanzas, Cardenas, Jucaro, Santiago de Cuba, and other chief
ports. Matanzas, which ranks next to Havana in commercial importance, is also situated
on the northwest coast of Cuba, 53 miles east of Havana. It may be reached in
two hours from Havana three times a day by one railway, and in four hours twice
a day by another ; also by a daily line of steamers which make the trip in five hours.
Travelers remaining even a few days in Havana will find a visit to Matanzas very
interesting ; they should go by regular route and return via Giiines to Villanueva.
The bay which forms the port of Matanzas is spacious, easy of access, and com
pletely sheltered from all winds except those from the northeast, which bring in a
heavy swell. The city, strongly fortified, is situated on an extensive flat on both
sides of the San Juan River, here crossed by a bridge, and contains about 30,000 in
habitants. The streets are wide, regular, well kept, and lighted with gas; and the
houses, chiefly of stone, are solidly built in the same style as those of Havana.
The handsomest of the public squares is the Plaza de Armas, where military bands
perform every evening, and the walks are crowded with fashionable promenaders.
There are two churches, a massive castle (San Severino), fine barracks, a hospital,
a good theatre, and a cockpit ; and among the schools, which are proportionately
more numerous than in any other Cuban town, is the Empresa Academy, one of the
best educational institutions in the West Indies. The climate of Matanzas is more
salubrious than that of Havana, and the winters are extremely mild and equable.
For consumptives this is in many respects the most desirable resort in Cuba; but
a residence on the adjacent hills is preferable to one in the town itself. The coun-

Matanzas.

try around Matanzas is covered with magnificent sugar-estates, and a large trade
is done in sugar and molasses. The leading hotels are the Leon de Oro and the
Hotel Frances.

THE BAHAMAS— NASSAU. 109
Santiago de Cuba (locally called Cuba), situated almost at the other end of the
island and on its south side, was formerly the capital of Cuba, and is still the second
city in rank and population, containing in 1875 about 45,000 inhabitants. It lies
on the river Santiago, 6 miles from its mouth, and has a port 4 miles long, which is
deep enough for ships-of-war, and strongly fortified. The city is regularly laid out
on a steep acclivity, with wide streets, some very precipitous, and handsome houses
which are chiefly of stone. The Cathedral, completed in 1819, is the largest on the
island, and there are several other churches, a theatre, a custom-house, barracks, a
college, and three hospitals. Santiago is an archbishop's see and the residence of
the Governor of the Eastern Department, who is independent of the Captain-General
of Cuba; it is, consequently, next to Havana the liveliest city in Cuba. The city is
supplied with bad water through an aqueduct, and, as it is shut in from the northern
breezes, the suffocating heat and the miasmatic effluvia from the adjacent marshes
render it the most unhealthful abode in the Antilles. Still, some consumptives have
derived great benefit from its remarkably warm winter climate. Santiago may be
reached by taking the railway from Havana to Batabano, and a steamer from tho
latter point, which touches at Cienfuegos, Trinidad, Santa Cruz, and Manzanillo,
reaching Santiago in five days.
Puerto Principe is the chief city of the interior, and in population nearly equals
Matanzas. It is the capital of the Central Department, and lies about midway be
tween the north and south coasts, 305 miles E. S. E. of Havana. The city is irregu
larly built between two small streams, theTinima and the Jatibonico, in a rich agri
cultural district, the chief products of which are sugar and tobacco. Its trade is in
significant compared with its population. The principal buildings are several churches
and monasteries, a hospital, and two theatres. The town has been threatened sev
eral times during the present war by the Cuban patriots, and two or three battles
have taken place in its vicinity. The climate is hot and moist, but the winters are
remarkably mild, and the town is at that time somewhat resorted to by invalids
who wish to get away from the coast. Puerto Principe is connected by a railway
56 miles long with the port of Nuevitas, through which it communicates with the
outside world. Isle of Pines.
This island lies in the Caribbean Sea, 33 miles off the coast of Cuba, and is under
the jurisdiction of the political governor of Havana. It is 43 miles long and 35
miles wide in the widest part, with an area of 1,200 square miles and a population
of about 2,000. The coasts are deeply indented by bays and inlets, some of which
afford commodious anchorage, though surrounded by innumerable rocky islets or
keys. A mountain-chain over 1,600 feet high, the Sierra de la Cafiada, traverses
the island, and the country is well watered by several rivers. The centre is some
what marshy, but the soil is elsewhere very fertile and productive. Timber and
precious woods are very abundant ; and among the mineral productions are silver,
quicksilver, iron, sulphur, and rock crystal, while marble of various beautiful colors
occurs in large quantities. The climate is exceedingly mild and salubrious, and
there is no place in the West Indies better adapted for invalids. Being sheltered
on the north by Cuba, the thermometrical range is very small, and the winters are
strangely bland and equable. The towns on the island are Nueva Gerona (which in
1870 had a population of 100), Santa Fe, and Jorobado. The island was discovered
by Columbus in 1494, and was long the favorite haunt of pirates, among whom was
Gibbs. It is reached from Havana by steamer at irregular intervals.
The Bahamas — Nassau.
The Bahamas are the most northern section of the West India group, and stretch
from the north side of San Domingo to the coast of Florida, between lat. 21° and
27° 30' north and Ion. 70° 30' and 79° 5' west. They are about 600 in number, of
which only about 15 are inhabited, a great many of them being mere rocky islets.
The most important of them are Grand Bahama, Great and Little Abaco, Andros, New
Providence Eleuthera, San Salvador, Rum Bay, Great Exuma, Wathng Island, Long

110 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.
Island, Crooked Island, Atwood's Key, and Great and Little Inagua. The group is
about 600 miles long, and has an estimated area of 3,000 square miles, with a popu
lation of about 40,000. Most of the islands are situated on those remarkable flats
called the Bahama Banks, of which the Great Bank (lying at the western extremity
of the archipelago) occupies a space 300 miles in length and 80 miles in breadth. The
deepest water on this bank is 30 feet, but the patches of coral-rock and dry sand
are innumerable. These banks rise almost perpendicularly from an unfathomable
depth of water, and are formed of coral, with an accumulation of shells and cal
careous sand. The character of the islands is generally long and narrow, low, and
covered with a light sandy soil. Fruit, including oranges, lemons, limes, and pine
apples, is produced in abundance ; and maize, yams, and sweet potatoes are exten
sively cultivated. The climate is salubrious, and very beneficial to consumptives.
The more northern islands, during the winter months, are rendered cool and agree
able by the northwest breeze that blows off the continent of America ; the more
southern are hot throughout the year, and are low, barren, and rocky.
Nassau, which is pretty much the only place in the Bahamas frequented by trav
elers, is the capital of the island of New Providence and the seat of government for
all the islands. It is situated on the northern side of the island, extending along
the waterfront for about three miles and back to the crest of a slope, on which
stand the Government-House and many of the finest private residences at an ele
vation of 90 feet above the harbor. The streets are laid out at right angles with
each other, and are uniformly macadamized, as are also the numerous excellent
drives around the island ; and the houses are generally built of stone, with the sur
rounding grounds ornamented with a tropical profusion of flowers and trees. The
city has a public library of 6,000 volumes, a museum, numerous churches, some bar
racks, a prison, and a hospital. During the late civil war it developed a great business
as rendezvous for vessels engaged in running the blockade of the Southern ports. This
temporary prosperity has now departed, but Nassau has excellent hotel accommo
dations, and is still probably the pleasantest and most frequented invalid resort in
the West Indies. Its climate is remarkably healthy, and the winters are delight
fully mild and equable, without being depressing. The temperature never falls
below 64° Fahrenheit, nor rises above 82°, and the variation rarely exceeds 5° in
the 24 hours. Little rain falls in the winter months, which are almost uniformly
dry and clear. Not the least attractive feature of Nassau is the Royal Victoria
Hotel, which was erected by the British Government in 1860, especially to meet the
requirements of invalids. It is of stone, four stories high ; and each of the first
three stories is surrounded by a broad piazza, forming a continuous promenade over
1,000 feet long, and affording to those unable to endure the fatigues of out-door exer
cise ample facilities for enjoying the fine scenery and refreshing breezes. The
rooms are large and carefully ventilated, and the house has all the modern improve
ments. Convenient arrangements for sea-bathing exist, and, for such as prefer it,
salt-water baths, both hot and cold, are provided in the hotel. The hotel is open
from the 1st of November to the 1st of May ; terms, $3 a day in gold. Nassau
may by reached from New York direct by Murray, Ferris & Co.'s Line of Mail-
steamers, sailing monthly from Pier 16 East River (fare $50) ; also from Savannah
via St. Augustine, Florida, by steamer every 10 days (fare, New York to Nassau via
Savannah, $50 ; Savannah to Nassau, $30 ; St. Augustine to Nassau, $21 ; New York
to Nassau and return— excursion ticket— $90 ; Savannah to Nassau and return, $60).
Harbor Island, a few miles distant from Nassau, is preferred by some invalids
2, -^ew Providence, though the climate is the same and the conveniences fewer.
lurks Island, at the southeastern extremity of the Bahama group, 90 miles north
ot Hayt,; is aiso wen spoken of. Its ci;mate is slightly warmer than that of Nassau,
but it is too much cut off from the rest of the world to be resorted to by those who
are not strong enough to "rough it." Jamaica.
Jamaica, one of the Greater Antilles, lies in the Caribbean Sea, about 90 miles
south of Cuba and 118 southwest of Hayti, from which it is separated by the Wind-

JAMAICA.

Ill

ward Channel. It is the largest of the British West India islands, and forms the
chief possession of Great Britain in this portion of the world. It is 145 miles long
by 53 miles wide, and has an area of 4,473 square miles, with a population in 1871
of 506,154. The general appearance of the island is extremely beautiful. On the
north it rises into hills of gentle ascent, covered with groves of pimento and a
brilliant verdure, and intersected by vales which exhibit the most romantic scenery ;
while on the south it presents abrupt precipices and inaccessible cliffs, the general
effect being heightened by the profusion of streams which pour from every valley,
and frequently precipitate themselves from the overhanging rocks into the ocean.
The Blue Mountains traverse the island in all directions, reaching an altitude in
some localities of 7,200 feet. The declivities are covered with stately forests, and
between the mountain-ranges and the foot of the central plain are spacious savan
nas and extensive plains. The coast-line is 500 miles long, and is indented with
a great number of excellent harbors, of which Port Royal, the harbor of Kingston,
is the most considerable. Jamaica was discovered by Columbus during his second

Kingston, Jamaica.
voyage, in 1494, and was taken possession of by the Spaniards in 1509. So great
was the inhumanity of the conquerors that, fifty years after the Spanish invasion
of the island, the native population had entirely disappeared. On May 3, 1655, a
British expedition, sent out by Oliver Cromwell, under Admirals Penn and Venables,
captured the island, which was formally ceded to England by the Treaty of Madrid,
in 1670. During the 150 years of Spanish domination, the inhabitants, including
Africans and Europeans, had not attained the number of 3,000. Within about the
same period of English rule the estimated census showed 340,000. In 1861 the
total population was 441,264, of whom 13,816 were whites and the rest half-breeds
or blacks. In 1865 there was an insurrection of the blacks, which was put down
by the notorious Governor Eyre with relentless rigor. These blacks had been
liberated in 1832. The climate in the low regions is essentially tropical, the aver
age temperature being 72° Fahr., and the maximum 100°; but the sea-breeze (called
" the doctor ") during the day, and the land-breeze at night, temper to a consider
able degree the excessive heat. In the elevated districts the thermometer ranges
from 45° to 70°, and the atmosphere is mild and agreeable. In few parts of the
world does so slight an elevation produce so great a modifying effect upon the heat
as in Jamaica; at about 2,500 feet above the sea, the fevers, dysenteries, and other
maladies which usually prevail along the coast, are unknown. The rainy seasons,
comprising the months of April, May, September, October, and November, are
usually preceded by a cessation of the day and night breezes, when the atmosphere

112 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.
becomes most oppressive, and almost insupportable for Europeans. Heavy rain falls
every day during these seasons, and is often accompanied by terrific thunder and
lightning, and violent gusts of wind from the north. Earthquakes are frequent
and sometimes violent; in 1692 the town of Port Royal was submerged several
fathoms beneath the ocean. Hurricanes in the summer months, between the rainy
seasons, are of frequent occurrence and commonly of great violence. One of the
most appalling occurred on the 3d of October, 1780. The little seaport town of
Savana la Mar, on the southwest coast of the island, was completely destroyed.
During the conflict of the elements, the sea hurst furiously over it, and in an in
stant swept inhabitants and houses into the abyss, leaving no vestige of either.
The best time to visit the island is between the beginning of December and the
end of March.
Kingston, the capital and chief commercial city of Jamaica, is situated on the
north coast of the island, in lat. 18° north and Ion. 76° 50' west. It stands on the
gentle slope of a branch of the Blue Mountains, on the north shore of a magnifi
cent bay defended by two forts. It is built in the form of an amphitheatre, with
wide and regular streets ; the houses, mostly two stories in height, are solidly
constructed of brick or wood and painted green and white. The houses in the
centre of the city form blocks, or squares, and in the principal streets are furnished
with verandas below, and covered galleries above ; while those in the outskirts are
detached, and surrounded by delightful gardens. Besides the English church, which
is the handsomest in the city, there are a Scottish, some Methodist, and several
Roman Catholic churches, and two synagogues; hut neither these, nor the other
public edifices, such as the theatre, hospital, court-house, new penitentiary, work
house, barracks, and jail, possess any architectural beauty. The environs are
covered with fine sugar-plantations, interspersed with picturesque villas. The
region to the west is extremely marshy, and to the east rises Long Mountain. The
climate is hot and generally unhealthy for strangers ; the thermometer ranges from
70° to 95°; but alternate sea and land breezes in the morning and evening temper
in a measure the almost suffocating atmosphere. Kingston may be reached by Mur
ray, Ferris & Co.'s Line ; or by Pim, Forwood & Co.'s Line, sailing bi-monthly from
Pier 51 North River, fare $50 ; or by steamer from Havana. Spanish Town, or Santi
ago de la Vega, the former capital of Jamaica, is situated on the bank of the river Cobre,
12 miles west of Kingston, with which it is connected by rail. It is ill-built and un
healthy, and possesses no attractions either for the visitor or as a place of residence.
The most desirable places in Jamaica for invalids lie hack in the elevated districts,
hut there are no localities that have made any special reputation as health-resorts.
Hayti and Santo Domingo.
The island of Hayti, or Santo Domingo, is also one of the Greater Antilles, and,
after Cuba, is the largest and most beautiful of the West India islands. It lies 48
miles E. S. E. of Cuba and 118 E. N. E. of Jamaica, between lat. 17° 36' and 19°
59' north, and Ion. 68° 20' and 74° 38' west. It is about 400 miles long and 165
miles wide, with an area, including the islands off the coast, of 28,030 square miles,
and a population of 708,500, three-fourths of whom are negroes ormulattoes. The
island is very irregular in form, being so deeply indented by bays and inlets as to
constitute a coast-line of about 1,500 miles, presenting numerous excellent harbors.
It is intersected east and west by three chains of mountains, connected by trans
verse ridges, and intervening are extensive plains and savannas. The central chain,
the principal part of which is the Sierra del Cibao, runs E. S. E. from Cape San
Nicolas to Cape Engano ; its culminating point, near the centre of the island, at
tains an elevation variously estimated at from 7,200 to 9,000 feet. Nearly parallel
with this chain is the Sierra de Monte Cristo, stretching from near the town of
Monte Cristo to Escocesa Bay, where it terminates abruptly. Between these two
ranges lies the Vega Real or Royal Valley, 130 miles long, watered by the Yuna and
Gran Yaque Rivers, and comprising extensive pasture-lands. The third or southern
mountain-range begins at Cape Tiburon, extends eastwardly through the southwest
peninsula, and terminates at the Rio Neiva, about midway between the cities of
Port-au-Prince and Santo Domingo. The secondary chains, running from the main

HAYTI AND SANTO DOMINGO. 113
ones toward the sea, divide the country into plains of various figures and extent,
which are intersected by still other ridges, reaching sometimes to the beach. Be
sides the Vega Real there are other extensive plains and valleys, one of the most
important of which is the plain of Les Oayes, at the western end of the island.
This plain has been greatly extended by the formation of a kind of rock, consisting
of comminuted shells and coral, incrusted with calcareous cement, resembling trav
ertine, a species of rock which is in process of formation throughout the whole of
the West India islands. There are numerous rivers, the navigation of which, how
ever, is obstructed by sand-bars, and many lakes, both fresh and salt. The vegeta
tion of the island is of a tropical character, and for beauty and luxuriance is unsur
passed by any in the world. The mountains are clothed with majestic forests of
pine, mahogany, ebony, fustic, satinwood, oak, lignum-vitse, and various other cabi
net woods; while the graceful palma real, or royal palm, nourishes everywhere in
the lowlands. The richest of flowering plants abound; and the usual tropical escu
lents, grains, and fruits, including plantains, bananas, yams, batatas, maize, millet,
oranges, pineapples, sapodillas, with melons, grapes, and tamarinds, grow in all
parts of the island. There is a species of agave (Fourcroya Cubense) extremely
abundant, from the fibres of which is made almost all the rope used in the country.
The articles chiefly raised for export are coffee, cotton, cacao, sugar-cane, indigo,
and tobacco. The native animals are small, the largest being the agouti ; but those
introduced from Europe, and now in a wild state, have thriven prodigiously, large
numbers of cattle, swine, and dogs, roaming freely in the savannas. The cattle of
hundreds of owners graze in herds, and are annually collected and counted, and
the young branded. Birds are not numerous, though large numbers of pigeons are
annually taken and used as food, while ducks and other water-fowl frequent the
marshy places. Insects abound, and many of them are venomous — such as scor
pions, tarantulas, and centipedes. There are many species of snakes and lizards;
the iguana sometimes attains a length of five feet, and is then much feared ; its flesh
is considered a delicacy by the natives. The lakes and rivers contain caymans and
alligators; in the surrounding sea whales are frequently taken ; manatees or sea-
cows are numerous ; and turtles, lobsters of enormous size, and crabs, abound on
the coast.
Hayti was discovered by Columbus in December, 1492, and was the seat of the
first Spanish colony founded in the New World. For three hundred years it was
the arena of fierce struggles between the French, Spaniards, and English ; passed
alternately under the domination of each of these powers ; was torn for many years
by insurrections and civil wars ; and in 1804 achieved its independence. At the
present time the island is occupied by two independent states, the Republic of
Hayti to the west, and the Dominican Republic to the east. The latter, commonly
called Santo Domingo (or San Domingo), comprises nearly two-thirds of the area
of the island, but is much less populous than Hayti proper and far inferior in pro
ductiveness and wealth. Its physical characteristics have already been summarized
in the general description of the island. The climate of this eastern portion is said
to be much more salubrious than that of any of the other West India islands ; and
statistics show the average health and longevity to be about equal to that of the
United States. In the highlands the temperature is equable and agreeable all the
year round; in the lowlands the thermometer ranges from 84° to 91° Fahr. The
intensity of the summer heat is tempered by the sea-breeze which blows nearly all
day long, and by the land-breeze which begins two or three hours after sunset and
continues until sunrise. The winters are wonderfully mild and soothing, and fa
vored localities are wholly free from those sharp variations which are so trying to
invalids elsewhere. At Santo Domingo City the extremes of temperature are 60°
and 95°, with an annual mean of 78.5° ; and at Port-au-Prince the extremes are 63°
and 104°, with an annual mean of 81°. From May to October heavy rains fall,
frequently accompanied by thunder and lightning. November, December, and
January, have a moderate rainfall, and from February to April it is uniformly dry.
It is only on the southern coasts that hurricanes are common. The island has on
several occasions suffered from earthquakes ; the most disastrous on record being

114

HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.

those of 1564, 1684, 1691, 1751, 1770, and 1842. By that of 1751 Port-au-Prince
was destroyed, and the coast for 60 miles submerged ; and by that of 1842 many
towns were overturned and thousands of lives lost. _
The city of Santo Domingo, capital of the republic, is situated on the right bank
of the mouth of the Ozama River, in lat. 18° 28' north. It is the oldest existing
settlement by white men in the New World, having been founded by Bartholomew
Columbus in 1494; in 1871 it had a population of about 6,000. The town is built
on a solid limestone formation, with a perceptible incline toward the river, and is
surrounded by a wall 8 feet thick and 10 feet high. The streets are straight,^ wide,
and at right angles to each other. Many of the ancient houses and public buildings
are still standing, but are only remarkable for their solidity. Few of the many
churches that once graced the city now remain. The most noteworthy is the Cathe
dral, in which the remains of Columbus and of his brother Bartholomew reposed

Cathedral of Santo Domingo.
for two and a half centuries. It was begun in 1512 and finished in 1540, and was
modeled after a church in Rome. On the bank of the river are the ruins of the so-
called Castle of Columbus, a fortified stone-house built by Diego Columbus. There
are in the city a seminary, a college, and a primary school, all under the care of the
Church, with about 300 pupils. The government buildings are spacious but of no
architectural pretensions. The climate, as of all this portion of the island, is de
lightful, and the city could easily be made an attractive winter resort for invalids,
were proper accommodations provided. At present there is no hotel worthy of the
name; but the traveler will be well taken care of by inquiring for "Monsieur
Auguste." In the vicinity of Santo Domingo are the curious natural caves of San-
tanna, reputed to have been one of the places of resort of the aborigines of the island
who came here to worship their zemes or gods. From New York Santo Domingo is
reached by steamer about 18 times a year.
Samana Bay, rendered famous by the attempt of President Grant to secure it for
the United States, is formed by the peninsula of Samana on the northeast end of the
island. It is about 35 miles long and 10 to 13 miles wide, but its entrance is nar
row and easily defended. There are several small towns on the shores of the bay,
of which the principal is Santa Barbara, which has a population of about 1,000
souls. Its site is locally considered unhealthy, but there are delightful situations
in the immediate vicinity. Savana la Mar, on the opposite shore of the bay, is a
little village of about 300 inhabitants, situated at the end of a vast plain 30 miles
long by 12 miles wide. Puerto Plata (or Porto Plata) is situated on the northern
coast of the island, about 100 miles northwest of Santo Domingo City. It lies on

PORTO RICO. ¦ 115
the slope of a mountain at the foot of a crescent-shaped bay, and contains about
3,000 inhabitants. The harbor has good anchorage, but shallows so rapidly near
the shore that ships have to be loaded and unloaded by lighters. The city is a very
old one, having been projected, it is said, by Columbus himself, hut it has been
completely destroyed several times, and is now a mere collection of small wooden
houses, irregularly built on narrow and ill-paved streets. The location is very
healthy, being fully open to both the sea and land breezes, and its winter climate is
highly spoken of by residents and visitors. The leading element in the population
are Germans, who have a monopoly of the tobacco-trade, which furnishes the chief
business of the port. There are two small hotels, one kept by a Frenchman and the
other by a German. For invalids probably the most favorable spots in Santo Do
mingo are the high inland valleys, but these must be selected by personal inspec
tion. The Haytian portion of the island has always been the best cultivated and most
populous ; but owing to its physical configuration the climate is less favorable to
strangers than that of Santo Domingo proper. Except in the north, the air is both
hot and moist, and malarious and febrile diseases are apt to prevail. The coast-
regions generally are unhealthy ; but doubtless in the more elevated localities of the
interior there are many favored spots where the ordinary climatic drawbacks may
be avoided, though none have achieved as yet more than a local reputation. Pcrt-
au-Prince, the capital of Hayti, is situated on the west coast of the island, at the head
of the beautiful bay of Gonaives, and has a population of about 21,000. The town
itself stands on somewhat elevated ground, but the surrounding country is for the
most part marshy. The streets, though generally wide, are ill paved and very
filthy, and the houses, mostly built of wood, are apt to present a dilapidated appear
ance. Among the public edifices are the President's House, the Senate House, a
church, the Custom-House, a mint, and a hospital. There are also a lyceum, a
college, and a few schools. The climate is hot, moist, and unhealthy for for
eigners; the mean annual temperature is 81° and the extremes 63° and 104°. Hotel
accommodations are very meagre. There is a monthly steam service to and from
New York, and the coasting-trade is very active. Cape Haytien, on the north coast,
formerly had the reputation of being " the Paris of the West Indies," but its mag
nificence has now greatly dwindled. In 1789 it had a population of nearly 20,000,
and was the commercial capital of the rich French planters who controlled the
eastern half of the island ; in 1851 the population had sunk to 6,000, and is now
about 15,000, the great majority of whom are negroes. It lies at the foot of some
noble mountains that stretch boldly out into the sea, and presents a fine view from
the harbor. On the street next the wharf are some fine stone warehouses, and a few
handsome stone buildings are still found in various portions of the city, but ruins
and flimsy wooden structures line most of the streets. Many of the foreign mer
chants live in considerable style and luxury, occupying generally the rooms over
their warehouses, some of which are very handsome, solidly-built edifices. The
climate of Cape Haytien is much more salubrious than that of Port-au-Prince, and
hut for the lack of good hotel accommodations this would doubtless prove a bene
ficial winter residence for invalids. The country about the town is extremely^ pict-
uresque ; and about half a day's journey away, in a charming valley near the village
of Milot, are the famous "Sans-Souci" palace and "Citadel" of the Emperor
Christophe. Other towns in Hayti are Port de la Paix, Gonaives, Saint-Marc,
Miragoane, Jerimie, and Jacmel, all of them open ports. Pirn, Forwood & Co.'s
line leave bi-monthly for Port-au-Prince via Kingston, Jamaica, from Pier 51 N. R.
Porto Rico.
Porto Rico, the smallest and most easterly of the Greater Antilles, lies 76 miles
southeast of Santo Domingo, from which it is separated by the Mona Passage, and is
after Cuba the most important of the Spanish dependencies in the West Indies. It is
nearly rectangular in shape, about 100 miles long by 40 miles wide, and has an
area, including the adjacent small islands, of 3,530 square miles, with a population
of 625 000, rather more than half of whom are white. The coasts are generally

116 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.
regular, hut there are many bays and inlets, and the northern shore is lined with
navigable lagoons. A range of mountains extends through the island from east to
west, having a general height of about 1,500 feet above the sea, with one peak (Lu-
quillo) in the northeast which attains a height of 3,678 feet. From these mountains
descend many small streams, some of which are navigable a few miles inland for
small vessels. In the interior are extensive plains, and there are level tracts from
five to ten miles wide on the coast. The soil is exceedingly fertile, and agriculture,
which is mostly in the hands of the natives, is prosecuted with great success. The
chief productions are sugar-cane, coffee, tobacco, cotton, rice, and maize ; and
many varieties of cabinet and dye woods, including mahogany, ebony, lignum-
vitse, cedar, and logwood, and many plants valuable in the arts and pharmacy,
abound. All the tropical fruits grow in perfection ; but the poverty of the fauna
and flora is remarkable, there being scarcely any wild animals, birds, or flowers.
The climate of Porto Rico, though very warm, is in general more healthy than that
of the other Antilles ; and owing to the diversified surface of the island almost
any desired degree of temperature can be secured. The prevailing winds are
easterly and northeasterly, but from November to March north winds are frequent.
The land-wind, so constant at night in the other islands of the Antilles, is felt but
seldom. The island has suffered much from hurricanes, of which those in 1742
and 1825 were particularly destructive. The winters are mild and equable, com
paratively free from rain, and healthy for strangers. The capital and principal
town is San Jnan de Puerto Rico, situated on a small island off the north coast, in lat.
18° 29' north and long. 66° 7' west. It is strongly fortified, contains a population
of about 20,000, and is well though not handsomely built. The streets are regular
ly laid out, well kept, and lighted with gas. The public buildings are the old Gov
ernment-House, the Royal Military Hospital, the Bishop's Palace and Seminary,
a large Cathedral, an Arsenal, Custom-House, and City Hall, and several fine cas
tles now used as barracks. There are a House of Refuge, an Insane Asylum, and
other benevolent institutions ; also a college and a fine library. The port is diffi
cult of access, but is considered one of the most important in the Antilles, and a
direct trade has recently been established with Europe and the United States.
It is regularly visited by the steamers of the British lines frequenting the West
Indies. Other important towns of Porto Rico are San German, Ponce, Mayaguez,
Arecibo, Guayama, Aguadilla, and Bayamon, most of which are seaports.
St. Thomas.
St. Thomas is one of the principal islands of the Virgin Group, lying south of
the Bahamas, 30 miles east of Porto Rico, and belongs to Denmark. It is formed
by a mountain-ridge extending the whole length and attaining an elevation of 1,480
feet, has an area of 35 square miles, and a population of 15,000. The shores are
deeply_ indented, and the adjacent waters are studded with islands and rocks.
There is no running stream on the island and only one small spring: rain-water is
the sole reliance and droughts are frequent. The soil is not fertile, and the prod
ucts are not sufficient for one-twentieth of its inhabitants ; but nearly all the steam
ers visiting the West Indies make this a stopping-place and give it considerable
commercial importance and prosperity. The climate is warm, the thermometer
ranging from 70° to 90°, and those suffering from consumption or from Bright's dis
ease of the kidneys usually derive benefit from a winter residence here. Hurri
canes pass over the island about once in twenty years, and do great damage. Earth
quakes are very frequent, but serious shocks do not occur oftener than once in fifty
years. St. Thomas is reached from New York by the Brazilian line of steamers, sail
ing once a month from Pier 33 North River (fare $100). Charlotte Amalie, the only
town, contains about 12,000 inhabitants, and is built along the shore of an excel
lent bay on the south side of the island, in lat. 18° 20' north and Ion. 64° 56' west.
The streets are paved and generally clean; the houses are supplied with gas, and,
although low and poorly built, are comfortable and healthy.

SANTAi CRUZ.— ST. VINCENT.— BARBADOES. 117
Santa Cruz, or St. Croix.
_ This island, the largest and southernmost of the Virgin Group, lies about 35
miles east of St. Thomas, forming with the latter and St. John the Danish Gov
ernment of the West Indies. It is 25 miles long by 5 miles broad, with an area of
84 square miles and a population in 1870 of 22,760. The surface is generally level,
but a range of low heights follows the line of its northern shore and throws out nu
merous spurs. There are numerous streams, the soil is fertile, and nearly the whole
island is in a high state of cultivation, about half being planted with sugar-cane.
Sugar and rum are the principal products; the others being cotton, coffee, and indi
go. All varieties of tropical fruits are produced in abundance, and flowers are per
petually in bloom. The roads throughout the island are admirable, and the scenery
is remarkably picturesque and pleasing. English is the language generally spoken.
The climate is warm and strikingly equable. During the winter the thermometer
ranges from 76° to 82°, and in summer the heat is but slightly increased. Little
rain falls at any time of the year, so that the air is dry, and there is no malaria.
Many invalids who have made trial of it consider Santa Cruz the best health-resort
in the West Indies, especially for those in advanced stages of consumption. The
west side of the island is somewhat more sheltered than the eastern side. Christian-
sted is the capital of the island, and here and at the little town of Frederickstadt are
good hotels and boarding-houses. Santa Cruz is reached by steamer from St. Thom
as in 4 hours. St. Vincent.
St. Vincent is an island of the British West Indies, belonging to the Windward
Group, in lat. 13° 13' north and Ion. 61° west. It is 17 miles long and 10 broad,
with an area of 131 square miles, and a population in 1871 of 35,688. The surface
is divided in the middle by a mountain-ridge, culminating in the volcano of Morne
Garou (Souffrifere), about 5,000 feet high, which contains a crater ^ mile in diam
eter, and 500 feet deep ; the most recent eruption was on April 30, 1812. The soil
is fertile ; the mountains are clothed with valuable forests ; the valleys are well
watered and cultivated, yielding sugar-cane, arrow-root, cotton, and cacao. The
climate is warm and very humid, but not unhealthy, and exactly suits those con
sumptives who thrive best in a warm, moist atmosphere. The thermometrical
range in winter is between 72° and 84°; in summer between 78° and 87°. The
mountainous districts are cooler, and there is considerable field for choice. Kingston,
the chief town of the island, is built on the shore of a fine bay on the southwest
coast. It is a pleasant place, and has considerable reputation as a health-resort.
Barbadoes.
This also is an island of the British West Indies, the most easterly of the Carib
bean Group, in lat. 13° 10' north and Ion. 59° 32' west. It is of an oval form, 22
miles long and 14 broad, with an area of 166 square miles, and a population of
160,000. The population of Barbadoes is denser than that of any other country in
the world except Malta, averaging nearly 1,000 to the square mile. The island is
divided by a deep valley into two parts. Near the centre of the northern and larger
part Mt. Hillahy rises to the height of 1,147 feet. From the west coast theground
rises in successive terraces, broken by ravines, to the central ridge, from which hills
of a conical form radiate in a northeast direction to the sea-shore. The soil in parts
is sandy and porous, in others rich and extremely productive ; and the whole island
is under cultivation. There are several chalybeate springs, containing chiefly iron,
carbonic acid, and fixed alkali in different proportions. The coast is encircled by
coral-reefs, which in some parts extend seaward for 3 miles, and are dangerous to
navigation. Carlisle Bay, the port and harbor of Barbadoes, is a spacious open
roadstead, capable of containing 500 vessels ; but it is exposed to south and south
west winds. The climate of the island is warm, but equable and salubrious, and
residence here seldom fails to benefit those suffering from consumption or from
Bright's disease of the kidneys. In December the thermometer ranges from 73° to

118

HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.

*  - -- I I

m

Vmmr

Barbadoes.
85°; in February from 71° to 84°. Throughout the year the heat is tempered by the
sea-breezes. Bridgetown, the capital of Barbadoes, contains 25,000 inhabitants, and
is the seat of government for this and several other islands, including St. Vincent.
There are only three other towns. Curacoa.
This is one of the Dutch West Indies, and lies in the Caribbean Sea, 46 miles
north of the coast of Venezuela, in lat. 12° 20' north, and long. 69° west. Its ex
treme length from northwest to southeast is 36 miles, its breadth is about 8 miles,
and its area 164 square miles. The population in 1870 was 21,319. It has a hilly
surface, with rugged coasts, and is exceedingly barren. Fresh water is scarce, and
is obtained either from rain or from deep wells. Severe droughts frequently occur ;
the soil is so poor that provisions are imported, and some of the products once cul
tivated, as indigo, cotton, and cacao, ^re now entirely neglected. Sugar, tobacco,
maize, cochineal, cattle, horses, asses, sheep, and goats are raised ; and from the
lime is made the celebrated Curacoa liqueur. The climate is dry and hot, hut the
island is not unhealthy, and it has long been a favorite resort for sufferers from
Bright's disease of the kidneys. Some consumptives have also derived great bene
fit from a residence here, and except for its remoteness it would probably be one of
the most frequented of the West India health-resorts. The capital and principal
town of the island is Willemsted, situated at the entrance of Santa Anna harbor, on
the southwest coast. It is a pretty place, and offers excellent accommodations to
visitors. There is irregular connection by sailing-vessels with New York.
"Down the Islands."
It is of course impossible for us to even enumerate the countless islands which
make up the West Indian archipelago, but some of the attractions, which are gen
eral to nearly all of them, are admirably pointed out by Charles Kingsley, in his
book on "The West Indies," and from his second chapter we condense the follow
ing account of a sail " down the islands " (from St. Thomas) :
" I had heard and read much from boyhood," he writes, " about these ' Less
er Antilles.' I had pictured them to myself a thousand times, but I was alto-

"DOWN THE ISLANDS." 119
gether unprepared for their beauty and grandeur. For hundreds of miles, day after
day, the steamer carried us past a shifting diorama of scenery, which may be
likened to Vesuvius and the Bay of Naples, repeated again and again, with every
possible variation of the same type of delicate loveliness. Under a cloudless sky,
upon a sea lively, yet not unpleasantly rough, we thrashed and leaped along.
Ahead of us, one after another, rose high on the southern horizon banks of gray
clouds, from under each of which, as we neared it, descended the shoulder of a
mighty mountain, dim and gray. Nearer still, the gray changed to purple ; low
lands rose out of the sea, sloping upward with those grand and simple concave curves
which almost always betoken volcanic land. Nearer still, the purple changed to
green. Tall palm-trees and engine-houses stood out against the sky ; the surf
gleamed white around the base of isolated rocks. A little nearer, and we were
under the lee or western side of the island. The sea grew smooth as glass ; we
entered the shade of the island-cloud, and slid along in still, unfathomable blue
water, close under the shore of what should have been one of the Islands of the
Blessed. "It was easy, in presence of such scenery, to conceive the exaltation which pos
sessed the souls of the first discoverers of the West Indies. What wonder if they
seemed to themselves to have burst into Fairy-land — to be at the gates of the earthly
paradise ? With such a climate, such a soil, such vegetation, such fruits, what lux
ury must not have seemed possible to the dwellers along those shores ? What rich
es, too, of gold and jewels might not be hidden among those forest-shrouded glens
and peaks? And, beyond, and beyond again, ever-new islands, new continents,
perhaps, an inexhaustible wealth of yet undiscovered worlds.
"I said that these islands resembled Vesuvius and the Bay of Naples. Like
causes have produced like effects, and each island is little but the peak of a volcano,
down whose shoulders lava and ashes have slidden toward the sea. Some carry
several crater-cones, complicating at once the structure and scenery of the island ;
but the majority carry hut a single cone, like that little island, or rather rock, of
Saba, which is the first of the Antilles under the lee of which the steamer passes.
Santa Cruz, which is left to leeward, is a long, low, ragged island, of the same form
as St. Thomas and the Virgins, and belongs, I should suppose, to the same forma
tion. But Saba rises sheer out of the sea some 1,500 feet or more, without flat
ground or even harbor. From a little landing-place to leeward a stair runs up 800
feet into the bosom of the old volcano, and in that hollow live some 1,200 honest
Dutch, and some 800 negroes, who were, till of late years, their slaves, at least in
law. But in Saba, it is said, the whites were really the slaves, and the negroes the
masters ; for they went off whither and when they liked ; earned money about the
islands, and brought it home ; expected their masters to keep them when out of
work, and not in vain. The island was, happily for it, too poor for sugar-growing
and the ' grande culture ; ' the Dutch were never tempted to increase the number of
their slaves; looked upon the few they had as friends and children, and, when
emancipation came, no change whatsoever ensued, it is said, in the semi-feudal rela
tion between the black men and the white. So these good Dutch live peacefully
aloft in their volcano, which, it is to be hoped, will not explode again. They grow
garden-crops, among which, I understand, are several products of the temperate
zone, the air being, at that height, pleasantly cool. They sell their produce about
the islands. They build boats up in the crater — the best boats in all the West In
dies — and lower them down the cliff to the sea. They hire themselves out, too —
not having lost their forefathers' sea-going instincts — as sailors about all those seas,
and are, like their boats, the best in those parts. They all speak English, and,
though they are nominally Lutherans, are glad of the services of the excellent Bishop
of Antigua, who pays them periodical visits. He described them as virtuous,
shrewd, simple, healthy folk, retaining, in spite of the tropical sun, the same clear,
white-and-red complexions which their ancestors brought from Holland two hun
dred years ago — a proof, among many, that the white man need not degenerate in
these isles. , •
"Much more recent — in appearance at least — is the little Isle of St. Eustatius,

120 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.
or, at least, the crater-cone, with its lip broken down at one spot, which makes up
five-sixths of the island. St. Eustatius may have been in eruption, though there is
no record of it, during historic times, and looks more unrepentant and capable of
misbehaving itself again than does any other crater-cone in the Antilles ; far more
so than the souffriere in St. Vincent, which exploded in 1812.
" But these two are mere rocks. It is not till the traveler arrives at St. Kitts
that he sees what a West Indian island is.
" The ' Mother of the Antilles,' as she is called, is worthy of her name. Every
where from the shore the land sweeps up, slowly at first, then rapidly, toward the
central mass, the rugged peak whereof goes by the name of Mount Misery. Only
once, and then but for a moment, did we succeed in getting a sight of the actual
summit, so pertinaciously did the clouds crawl around it. Thirty-seven hundred
feet aloft a pyramid of black lava rises above the broken walls of an older crater, and
is, to judge from its knife-edge, flat top, and concave eastern side, the last remnant
of an inner cone, which has been washed, or, more probably, blasted away. Be
neath it, according to the report of an islander to Dr. Davy (and what I heard was
to the same effect), is a deep hollow, longer than it is wide, without an outlet,
walled in by precipices and steep declivities, from fissures in which steam and the
fumes of sulphur are emitted. Sulphur in crystals abounds, incrusting the rocks
and loose stones, and a stagnant pool of rain-water occupies the bottom of the souf
friere. " The steamer passes each island only once a fortnight, so that to land in an isl
and is equivalent to staying there at least that time, unless one chooses to take the
chances of a coasting-schooner, and bad food, bugs, cockroaches, and a hunk, which
— but I will not describe them. ' Non ragionam di lor, ma guarde ' (down the com
panion) ' e passa.'
"I must therefore content myself with describing, as honestly as I can, what lit
tle we saw from the sea of islands, at each of which we would gladly have staid
several days. As the traveler nears each of them— Guadeloupe, Dominica, Marti
nique (of which last two we had only one passing glance), St. Vincent, St. Lucia, and
Grenada — he will be impressed not only by the peculiarity of their form, but by the
richness of their color. All of them do not, like St. Kitts, Guadaloupe, and St.
Vincent, slope up to one central peak. In Martinique, for instance, there are three
separate peaks, or groups of peaks, the Mont Pelde, the Pitons du Carbet, and the
Pitons du Vauclain. But all have that peculiar jagged outline which is noticed first
at the Virgin Islands.
" Flat ' vans ' or hog-backed hills, and broad sweeps of moorland, so common in
Scotland, are as rare as are steep walls of cliff, so common in the Alps. Pyramid
is piled on pyramid, the sides of each at a slope of about 45°, till the whole range is
a congeries of multitudinous peaks and peaklets, round the base of which spreads
out, with a sudden sweep, the smooth lowland of volcanic ash and lava. This ex
treme raggedness of outline is easily explained. The mountains have never been,
as in Scotland, planed smooth by ice. They have been gouged out, in every direc
tion, by the furious tropic rains and tropic rain-torrents. Had the rocks been strati
fied and tolerably horizontal, these rains would have cut them out into table-lands,
divided by deep gullies, such as may be seen in Abyssinia and in certain parts of the
Western United States. But these rocks are altogether amorphous and unstratified,
and have been poured or spouted out as lumps, dikes, and sheets of lava, of every
degree of hardness; so that the rain, in degrading them, has worn them, not into
tables and ranges, but into innumerable cones. And the process of degradation is
still going on rapidly. Though a cliff, or sheet of bare rocks, is hardly visible
among the glens, yet here and there a bright, brown patch tells of a recent land
slip ; and the masses of debris and banks of shingle, backed by a pestilential little
swamp at the mouth of each torrent, show how furious must be the downfall and
down-roll before the force of a sudden flood, along so headlong an incline.
" But, in strange contrast with the ragged outline, and with the wild devastation
of the rainy season, is the richness of the verdure which clothes the islands, up to
their highest peaks, in what seems a coat of green fur, but, when looked at through

THE BERMUDAS. 121
the glasses, proves to be, in most cases, gigantic timber. Not a rock is seen. If
there be a cliff here and there, it is as green as an English lawn. Steep slopes are
gray with groogroo palms, or yellow with unknown flowering trees. High against
the sky-line tiny knots and lumps are found to be gigantic trees. Each glen has
buried its streamlet a hundred feet in vegetation, above which, here and there, the
gray stem and dark crown of some palmiste tower up like the mast of some great
admiral. The eye and the fancy strain vainly into the green abysses, and wander
up and down over the wealth of depths and heights, compared with which European
parks and woodlands are but paltry scrub and shaugh. No books are needed to tell
that. The eye discovers it-for itself, even before it has learned to judge of the great
size of the vegetation from the endless variety of form and color; for the islands,
though green intensely, are not of one, but of every conceivable green, or rather of
hues ranging from pale yellow through all greens into cobalt blue; and as the wind
stirs the leaves, and sweeps the lights and shadows over hill and glen, all is ever-
changing, iridescent, like a peacock's neck, till the whole island, from peak to shore,
seems some glorious jewel — an emerald with tints of sapphire and topaz, hanging
between blue sea and white surf below, and blue sky and cloud above. If the reader
fancies that I exaggerate, let him go and see. Let him lie for one hour off the Rous
seau at Dominica. Let him sail down the leeward side of Guadaloupe, down the lee
ward side of what island he will, and judge for himself how poor, and yet how tawdry,
my words are, compared with the luscious yet magnificent coloring of the Antilles.
" The traveler, at least, so I think, would remark also, with some surprise, the
seeming smallness of these islands. The Basse Terre of Guadaloupe, for instance, is
forty miles in length. As you lie off it, it does not look half or even quarter of that
length, and that not merely because the distances north and south are foreshortened,
or shut in by nearer headlands. The causes, I believe, are more subtile and more
complex. First, the novel clearness of the air, which makes the traveler, fresh
from misty England, fancy every object far nearer, and therefore far smaller, than it
actually is. Next, the simplicity of form. Each outer line tends upward so surely
toward a single focus — each whole is so sharply defined between its base-line of sea
and its background of sky, that, like a statue, each island is compact and complete
in itself, an isolated and self-dependent organism, and therefore, like every beautiful
statue, it looks much smaller than it is. So perfect this isolation seems, that one
fancies, at moments, that the island does not rise out of the sea, but floats upon it ;
that it is held in place, not by the root of the mountains, and deep miles of lava-wall
below, but by the cloud which has caught it by the top, and will not let it go. Let
that cloud but rise, and vanish, and the whole beautiful thing will be cast adrift,
ready to fetch way before the wind, and (as it will seem often enough to do when
viewed through a cabin-port) to slide silently past you, while you are sliding
past it."
THE BERMUDAS.
The Bermudas— the "still vext Bermoothes" of Shakespeare's " Tempest "—are
a group of small islands belonging to Great Britain, lying in the Atlantic Ocean,
about 580 miles S. S. E. of Cape Hatteras, between lat. 32° 14' and 32 25' north and
Ion. 64° 38' and 64° 52' west. They are formed upon a coral-reef, and, though only
18 miles long by 6 in greatest breadth, they are no less than 365 in number. They
are separated from each other by very narrow channels, and are mostly mere rocky
islets, only 5 being of any considerable size, and only 12 or 15 being inhabited.
Bermuda or Long Island is the principal member of the group; it is 16 miles long
and about U mile wide. The other principal islands are St. George s, Ireland, Som
erset and St David's. Dangerous coral-reefs surround the islands on the north, west,
and south and as these are nearly all under water and extend in some places 10 miles
from land' access is difficult and navigation of the waters should not be attempted
except with the aid of experienced native pilots. There are some excellent harbors,
however that of St. George's, the easternmost island, having been formed at great
cost by blasting away the reefs and constructing a breakwater on the point of the
= 9

122

HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.

adjacent island of Ireland. St. George is now an important naval station, and is
strongly fortified. When viewed from the sea the Bermudas are of slight elevation,
the highest point of land scarcely attaining the height of 200 feet. In their general
aspect they closely resemble their neighbors the West Indies. Vegetation is green
throughout the year, and the soil, though overworked, still yields abundance of gar
den vegetables, potatoes, fruit, and arrow-root. Pomegranates, figs, and bananas,
are produced in profusion, and oranges, strawberries, and pineapples, are raised to
some extent. The cocoanut, the India-rubber tree, the cabbage-palm, the tamarind,
and the Pride of India, give a tropical character to the vegetation, which, however,
lacks the tropical richness and luxuriance. The climate of the Bermudas is damp,
but mild. The mean temperature in winter is 60° Fahr. and the thermometer rarely
records 40° ; but rain falls copiously during the winter months and violent storms
are frequent. At such times the variations of temperature are sudden and marked,
and the air becomes surcharged with a penetrating moisture. Asthma, rheumatism,
and bronchitis, are nearly always benefited by residence in the Bermudas ; but con
sumptives in advanced stages of the disease are apt to find the climate very trying,
and even those in the earlier stages should seek sheltered locations. Hamilton is
recommended with this view.
Hamilton, the capital of the Bermudas, is situated on Bermuda or Long Island, the
largest of the group, and is a pretty little town of 1,500 inhabitants, built on the
slope of a gentle elevation, and containing about 500 houses constructed for the
most part of freestone. The government buildings are located here, the hotel ac-

Bermuda.

commodations are good, the society has something of the gayety and liveliness of a
capital, and the hospitality of the people is boundless. Several churches add to the
attractions of the place, and there are a number of good free schools. Pleasant ex
cursions from Hamilton may be made to Harrington Sound and Fairy-Land. The
former is a salt-water lake, with a narrow outlet to the sea, and shores honey-combed
with caves, in soihe of which are beautiful stalactite formations. In the neighbor
hood are Moore's cottage and the calabash-tree under which he composed his poems.
Fairy-Land is a delightful bit of sea-coast scenery, in perfecting which Nature and
Art have joined hands. The waters around Hamilton invite to bathing and boating,
and yachting, is a favorite amusement. From New York Hamilton is reached by

THE BERMUDAS. 123
steamers leaving Pier 12 North River on alternate Thursdays. Fare, $30 gold.
Excursion tickets, good for six months, $50 gold.
St. George, situated on the east side of the island of the same name, is the largest
town and chief port of the Bermudas. It has a magnificent harbor, made, as we
have said, by blasting away the coral-reef, and is an important military and naval
station, a regiment of the line and one or more vessels being always stationed here.
The town is pleasantly located on a gentle acclivity fronting the harbor, but it is built
in a very straggling and irregular manner, and possesses neither the external nor the
social attractions of Hamilton. Hotel accommodations, though limited, are fairly
good. A lively article in a recent number of Harper's Magazine contains an ani
mated description of the Bermudas, from which we cull such items as are likely to
prove interesting to the tourist or invalid : " Not more than 16 or 20 of the numer
ous islands are inhabited, and of these the five largest are St. David's, St. George's,
Bermuda proper, sometimes styled the Continent, Somerset, and Ireland. They are
about 15 miles in length, and the greatest breadth is about 5 miles. There are no
mountains, no rivers, and so, while they are without magnificence in scenery, in a
quiet sort of beauty they are unique. There are about 150 miles of good hard
roads, which are generally free from dust. In many places deep cuttings have been
made, and the rock towers above the carriage even. The scenery is exceedingly
picturesque, and changes continually. Now you drive through wide stretches of
country, and the landscape bears a striking resemblance to that of New England ;
then through a narrow road, with high walls of rock on either hand, on the sides
of which the maiden-hair fern grows in profusion, and the road is so winding that
every new view which bursts suddenly upon you is a surprise; and then there are
delightful glimpses of the sea, with its many islands. Walls of stone extend along
the road-side, and over them clamber the morning-glory, the prickly -pear, and the
night-blooming cereus. Great beds of geraniums, which mock our hot-houses in
their profusion, grow wild. Hedges of oleander line the roads or border cultivated
patches of land, protecting them from the high winds which at times sweep over
the islands. Thirteen varieties of it are found here, and wherever you go it is one
mass of pink-and-white blossoms. The lantana also grows wild along all the hedges.
The passion-flower peeps out from its covert of green leaves, creeping up the
branches of tall trees. The profusion of flowers is wonderful, and one can always
have a bouquet for the gathering. The winter is the regal time for them. About
Christmas the roses, magnificent in size and of great variety, are in all their glory.
One gentleman assured me that he had upward of 150 varieties. No great care
seems to be taken to cultivate them. Here and there one sees a fine garden, hut
nothing that even approaches what might be accomplished with such a soil and
climate. The beauty and variety of flowers are fully equaled by the excellence and
diversity of fruits. Oranges of superior quality are raised, though their culture is
not general. The lemon grows wild. The mango, guava, papaw, pomegranate, fig,
arocado pear — whose lovers (for they can be called nothing else) become eloquent
in its praise — the custard-apple, the banana — the lazy man's delight, hearing its
wealth of fruit, and dying as it yields its single bunch, while the new plants spring
ing up about its dead stalk maintain the supply the year round — all these fruits
grow readily, and with due effort would grow abundantly. Apples and pears are
raised, but lack the flavor they possess with us. Peaches, heretofore excellent, have
been destroyed for two years past by an insect. Strawberries ripen from Novem
ber till July. Grapes grow luxuriantly. The most common tree is the Bermudian
cedar, with which nearly all the hill-sides are wooded. Occasionally one sees the
mountain-palm, while tamarind, tamarisk, palmetto, cocoanut, India-rubber, ma
hogany, and calabash trees are quite common. In gardens many West Indian trees
are found. .
"Although three crops of vegetables can be raised annually, still agriculture is
in a very backward state, and most of the fruits enumerated are specially rather
than generally cultivated. In the early colonial days it was the chief occupation of
the people but was afterward abandoned for other pursuits, and after the introduo-

124 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.
tion of slavery the land was mostly tilled by slaves, and a certain disgrace attached
to this kind of labor. Ignorance reigned in the fields, and it is only recently that
an attempt has been made to wrest them from its sway. The most progressive men
are now deeply interested in the subject, and strong efforts are being made to induce
the people to cultivate something besides the stereotyped onion, potato, tomato, and
arrow-root, the last said to be the best in the world, though the quantity raised is
constantly diminishing, as it exhausts the soil, and does not prove as remunerative
as some other crops. Small patches of land are selected here and there, are care
fully spaded — the plough not being in common use — and from them the surprisingly
large crops are realized. The land is quite generally inclosed by the oleander, and
to prevent inroads upon it all creatures that feed out-of-doors, from a hen to a cow,
are usually tied. The poor things have that resigned look peculiar to individuals
linked to any thing from which they are too weak ortoo stupid to escape.
" In traveling through Bermuda one's thoughts continually revert to Spain. The
name of old Juan Bermudez, its discoverer, has been bestowed upon the islands, and
it would seem as if his spirit still floats over them, so thoroughly Spanish are the
outward characteristics ; and in no place is this more marked than in the quaint old
town of St. George's. The harbor is beautiful, and much more accessible than that
of Hamilton. The streets are narrow — mere lanes, in fact — across which you can
shake hands with your neighbor if so disposed, and they are, moreover, sandy and
disagreeable for pedestrians. Houses are huddled together in the most miscellane
ous manner, and from one perfumed with the onion, with its unkempt and uninter
esting-looking occupants bursting out at doors and windows, you come pat upon a
beautiful garden, with its pretty Bermudian cottage, only to find repetitions of the
experience throughout the town. On its most commanding height are fortifica
tions, and the work now in progress is said to be particularly fine. There are bar
racks all over the hill, and soldiers sitting or loafing about wherever you go. Dur
ing the war St. George's was a busy town, being a great resort for blockade-run
ners, which were hospitably welcomed by our English friends. Goods purchased
abroad were brought here, and then transferred to the craft waiting to receive
them. It was risky business, but one well followed, and many men here who flat
tered themselves at the beginning of the war that they were amassing large fortunes
were bankrupt or nearly so at its close. Some few, however, realized large amounts.
The town was crowded, and at night every available space out of doors or in was
occupied. Men lay on verandas, walls, docks, and floors. Money was plenty, and
sailors sometimes landed with $1,500 in specie. The price of labor advanced ; wages
were doubled. Liquor flowed freely, and the common laborer had his champagne
and rich cake to offer. Here, too, was concocted the fiendish plot by Dr. Blackburn
and others for introducing the yellow-fever into Northern cities by sending thither
boxes of infected clothing ; but it was fortunately discovered in season to prevent
injury to any save the plotters. During the entire war it was one of the hot-beds
of secession, and with its close there came a sudden collapse. If a door-nail is
deader than anything else in Nature, then St. George's is as dead as that nail.
"From St. George's to Hamilton there is a fine ocean-drive of 8 or 9 miles.
Going by Harrington Sound, you will pass the Devil's Hole, or Neptune's Grotto,
between which and the sound there is a subterranean communication— the sound,
hy-the-way, being an arm of the sea. Fish caught at the most favorable seasons of
the year are kept here until wanted for use. The usual number is 1,000, though it
will hold twice as many. There are many varieties of fish, and the spectacle is a3
plea'sing as it is novel. These ponds, on a small scale, are quite numerous through
out Bermuda.
" Like most limestone countries, Bermuda abounds in caves, and nowhere are
they more beautiful than in Walsingham, not far from Neptune's Grotto, on the road
leading around Harrington Sound, one of the loveliest sheets of water imaginable.
The whole region is singularly attractive. Mimic lakes, reflecting the varied hues
of the rocks which inclose them, with trees overhanging their banks, teem with fish
wonderful in variety and color, whose motions are the very ideal of grace. By
paths through the tangled wildwood lead one through a wilderness of beauty.

THE BERMUDAS. 125
Nature has been lavish of her gifts all through this locality, and as it is geologically
one of the oldest sections of Bermuda, all the rocks seem to have the weather-stain
which the vines love so well. Over the whole is thrown the charm of poetry, from
the fact that it was one of Tom Moore's favorite haunts while living in Bermuda.
It is fitting that Nature should have her temples in such a place. Humility is one
of the conditions of entrance to them, and so, bending low, making a slight descent,
we are soon standing in a room from whose arched roof hang large stalactites.
Artificial lights bring out each in its full proportions, and one contemplates with
wonder this strange architecture, regardless of the ages it has endured. In a second
one near by, and which is much more spacious, is a beautiful sheet of water, clear
as crystal, and of an emerald tint. The finest cave is the Admiral's, which guides
may fail to mention from the fact that it is more difficult of access than any of the
others ; but to one at all accustomed to climbing there is little danger and no great
difficulty in visiting any of them.
"Back to the enchanted ground we lunch under ' Moore's calabash-tree,' hacked
by specimen-hunters, but beautiful still. Here he sat and wrote, and so acquired the
divine right to all this place. Of course there is a love-story, and the characters
in it are this same poet and the handsomest lady in all the Bermudas at that time,
Miss Fanny Tucker, sometimes prettily called the ' Rose of the Isles,' whom Moore in
his poems addresses as ' Nea.' Well, he wrote verses to her, and about her, and went
on in true lover-like style ; hut she seems not to have been moved by his strains, and
liked her own name so well that she did not change it on her marriage. Moore lived
to love again, as we all know. In fact, all the people in this little story are said to have
lived happily ever after.
" One of the most delightful places in Bermuda to visit is Clarence Hill, the resi
dence of the admiral, who is supposed to live here three months each year. The
road from Hamilton is a wild one, and full of variety, with most charming combina
tions of the woods, country, and sea. We pass Undercliff Cottage, designed for
happy lovers, who can here spend the honey-moon in a retreat so secure that there
will be no demand for the farce of ' Old Married People,' always a failure when en
acted by amateurs. There are flowers in abundance, which with the air and views
will sustain life for a month or so. A pretty veranda overlooks the water, with its
" Summer isles of Eden lying in dark purple spheres of sea."
Steps lead almost from the door down to the boat, which will bear them out into
all the loveliness, which is ever beckoning to them. For absolute beauty I know of
but one other view in Bermuda comparable with this — that from the summit of St.
David's Island. The atmospheric effects are marvelous, and lead one to consider
matrimony very favorably, so closely are the place and the condition connected.
The grounds at Clarence Hill are quite extensive and well kept. The house is plain,
but the attractiveness of the place is in its marine views, and in thefactthat Nature
has been left in. On a hill-side overlooking the sea, in a most sequestered spot, is
an exquisite bit of gardening. Mosses, ferns, and many tropical plants, grow in such
profusion and grace, peeping from under rocks, climbing over them, that it is only
by critical inspection that you perceive that their presence is due to cultivation.
Near by is a cave, against whose outer wall the sea is ever dashing. It was tun
neled by a former admiral, and is so large that on its completion a hall was given in
it by way of celebration.
" Some pleasant morning a visit must be made to Ireland Island, the site of the
dock-yard and naval establishment, and one of the four telegraphic signal-stations.
We land, and encounter at once the British sentinel, who is very courteous, and
splutters' in the most unintelligible English, using words on general principles, more
as a relief to himself than as an assistance to any one else. Not being in any sense
dangerous to Great Britain, we are allowed to proceed. There are marines every
where and with few exceptions they seem to be a most disagreeable set of fellows.
The most remarkable object of interest is undoubtedly the floating-dock, one of the
West structures of its' kind in the world, which was built in England, and was
towed across the Atlantic to its present position by 5 ships. Its length is 381 feet,

128 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.
and its breadth 124 feet. The largest and heaviest man-of-war can be docked. It
is divided into 43 water-tight compartments, which are fitted with valves worked
from the upper deck. By placing some 4,000 tons of water in the upper chambers
its keel can be brought five feet out of water and cleaned — a process which it has
once undergone. You ascend a ladder or steps on the outside, and get a fine view,
having your head nearly blown off while doing it. People whose heads are of no
consequence invariably ascend, while the more severely intellectual remain at the
foot of the ladder. There is the usual number of machine-shops, officers, and mag
azines, with vast quantities of powder — much more than a quiet little place like
Bermuda would seem to require. Places have been tunneled out here and there,
and filled with munitions of war. Everything is arranged in the most deliberate
and scientific manner to injure the feelings of other people. There is no suggestion
of peace or its congresses, unless the maiden-hair fern which grows on the rocks
wherever there is sufficient moisture may be considered one. Among so many sug
gestions of disaster and death the hospital and cemetery are harmonious accompani
ments. The former is commodious and well managed. The latter has more in
mates, and is a pleasant place to go to when one cannot go elsewhere, and is ren
dered attractive by flowers and trees — a fact deserving mention, since most ceme
teries here are the lonesomsst kind of places, though they are not particularly gay
in any country.
" If the moon, tide, and party, are just right, Fairy-Land presents as great a con
trast to Ireland Island as can well be imagined. Five or six hours are needed for
the expedition. You row into little coves, then into what seem to be lakes, so per
fectly inclosed is the water ; hard by the shore, looking up through dells in which
you can almost see the fairies dancing under the trees ; under great rocks which
threaten to send you down among the fishes; around islands, into inlets, where the
mangroves, every leaf glistening in the moonlight, throw out their branches in the
most welcoming way. All this, and much more, is in store for him who goes to
Fairy-Land, the enchanted spot of Bermuda.
"Bermuda having suffered several times from yellow fever, grave errors have
aris3n in regard to the healthfulness of the climate. The fever seems to have been
due rather to imperfect drainage and defective quarantine regulations than to any
predisposing causes in the climate. Several years since there was a convict estab
lishment here, which was the means of introducing a very low class physically —
man predisposed to disease, and who succumbed at once to attacks of fever. All
this has subjected Bermuda to unfavorable criticisms respecting the healthiness of
its climate; but any country might suffer under like sanitary conditions. The con
vict establishment has recently been broken up, thereby removing a fruitful source
of disease; and the enactment of strict quarantine laws, which are rigidly enforced
upon all vessels, goes far toward preventing the introduction of epidemics from other
places. So admirably are the islands situated that there is no excuse for defective
drainage or quarantine. Strangers usually resort here in the winter, and generally
speak highly of the agreeability of the climate. Rains are quite prevalent at this
season, and most houses are not sufficiently protected from dampness, as the native
B irmudian thinks fires unhealthy, and sits on his veranda throughout the year. But
grates and stoves are gaining in favor, and are being used more and more. A few
people have learned that Bermuda is a pleasant summer resort, and act accordingly.
There is almost invariably a good breeze from some quarter, and the nights and
mornings are cool and delightful. Sunstroke is unknown. August and September
are the hottest and most disagreeable months, owing to the enervating southerly
winds. The mercury seldom rises above 85° or falls below 40°, while the average is
about 70°. There seem to be no diseases peculiar to the climate, but there are ail
ments enough to keep several excellent physicians actively employed. Consumptives
often resort here, but seldom derive that benefit which they experience in a dry
climate, though they often improve, and in some cases are nearly cured. The cli
mate seems to be especially beneficial to those afflicted with rheumatism and certain
nervous diseases. Bronchial affections are generally relieved, and not unfrequentlv
cured.

THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. 127
" ' What shall we wear? ' may be answered by saying that in summer ladies find
muslins and thin wash materials most desirable, and they are worn quite late in the
fall. White dresses are very much worn. At other seasons what is suitable for
autumn in New York is worn here. The dress is usually very simple in material as
well as style."

THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
How to reach. — The elegant steamships of the Pacific Mail Company make the
trip twice a month from San Francisco to Honolulu. Fare $75. " The voyage
down to the islands," says Mr. Nordhoff', "lasts from 8 to 9 days, and even to per
sons subject to sea-sickness is likely to be an enjoyable sea-journey, because after
the second day the weather is charmingly warm, the breezes usually mild, and the
skies sunny and clear. In 48 hours after you leave the Golden Gate, shawls, over
coats, and wraps, are discarded. You put on thinner clothing. After breakfast you
will like to spread rugs on the deck and lie in the sun, fanned by deliriously soft
winds; and before you see Honolulu you will, even in winter, like to have an awn
ing spread over you to keep off the sun. On the way you see flying-fish, and, if you
are lucky, an occasional whale or a school of porpoises, but no ships. It is one of
the loneliest of ocean-tracks, for sailing-vessels usually steer farther north to catch
stronger gales. But you sail over the lovely blue of the Pacific Ocean, which has
not only softer gales but even a different shade of color than the fierce Atlantic."
Strictly speaking the Sandwich Islands cannot he called an American resort, yet
as they are chiefly under American influence and as American invalids are almost
the only ones that are found there, our little hook would be incomplete without
some mention of them. The Hawaiian or Sandwich Islands are the most northerly
cluster of the Polynesian Archipelago, and lie in the North Pacific between Mexico
and China, extending in a curve about 360 miles from N.W. to S. E., between lat.
18° 55' and 22° 20' N. and long. 154° 55' and 160° 15' W. There are 12 islands in
the group, and their names and areas, in order from S. E., are : Hawaii, 4,040 square
miles; Maui, 603 square miles ; Molokini, islet; Kahoolawe, 80 square miles; Lauai,
150 square miles; Molokai, 169 square miles ; Oahu, 522 square miles; Kauai, 527
square miles ; Lehua, islet ; Niihau, 70 square miles ; Kaula and Bird, islets : total
about 6,100 square^miles, of which two thirds are included in the principal island
which gives its name to the group. The islands are of volcanic formation and
mountainous, the fertile lands being mostly confined to the valleys and to a belt of
alluvial soil at the shore. The uplands are better adapted to grazing than to tillage.
The mountains, covered with dense forests, are not cultivable. The windward
coasts, which receive the northeast trade-winds, intercept the rains and are fertile,
while the leeward side of the same island may be almost rainless. On the wind
ward side the mountains are densely wooded. Here are the largest active and also the
largest extinct craters in the world, and in no part of the islands can one journey
far without seeing extinct craters, which are generally overgrown with a luxuriant
vegetation. Many hundred square miles are covered with recent and barren lavas.
Near the shore the natives cultivate sWeet potatoes upon lavas that are hardly
cooled, pulverizing the scoria and mixing with it a little vegetable mould. The
chief productions of the islands are sugar, rice, coffee, cotton, sandal-wood, tobacco,
wheat, maize, arrow-root, oranges, lemons, bananas, tamarinds, bread-fruit, guavas,
potatoes, yams, kalo, and ornamental woods. Neat-cattle, sheep, goats, and hogs, are
raised; and hides, tallow, and wool, figure largely in the exportations. The climate
of the islands is healthful and remarkably equable, so much so that the Hawaiian lan
guage has no word to express the general idea of weather. Extreme heat is never
known ; the mean temperature of the year at Honolulu is 75° Fahr., and the daily
variation seldom exceeds 15°. On the windward side the variation is greater and
the weather rougher, but even there it is seldom either so cold or so hot as to cause
discomfort. The islands being mountainous, almost any kind of climate can be

128

HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.

found, the temperature becoming more bracing as the elevation increases. June is
the hottest month of the year, January the coolest and most rainy. There is no
special rainy season, though rain is more abundant in winter than during the sum
mer months. The trade-wind, which is also the rain-wind, greatly controls the rain
fall ; and visitors should bear in mind that on the windward side of every one of the
islands rains are frequent, while on the lee side the rainfall is much less, and in
some places there is scarcely any. At Hilo, for example, on the weather-side of
Hawaii, the rainfall is about 17 feet in the year, while at Kowa, on the other side
of the island, it is only 45 inches, and water has to be carried in barrels for the or
dinary uses of the inhabitants. Thus an invalid may secure at will either a dry or a
moist climate, and this often by moving but a few miles. The climate in the more
favored localities has the reputation of being an excellent one for consumptives, and
many remarkable cures have been effected; but Mr. Nordhoff thinks it cannot be
recommended for all cases. He says : " If a patient has the disease fully developed,
and if it has been caused by lack of nutrition, the island air is likely to be insuffi
ciently bracing. For persons who have ' weak lungs ' merely, but no actual disease,
it is probably a good and perfectly safe climate; and if sea-bathing is part of your
physician's prescription, it can be enjoyed in perfection here by the tenderest body
all the year round." Honolulu.
Honolulu, the capital of the Hawaiian kingdom, is situated on the south side of
the island of Oahu, in lat. 21° 18' 12" north and long. 157° 55' west. It covers the
lower portion of Nuuanu Valley, and extends over the raised coral-reef at the base
of the lofty mountains for several miles, having a population of about 15,000, con
sisting largely of foreigners. The houses are usually of wood, seldom more than
two stories high, with spacious verandas, and mostly surrounded by trees; but on
the commercial streets are large brick and stone warehouses. The aspect of the
place is surprisingly like that of a thriving New England town, and Americans in
particular soon feel quite at home. American gold and silver coins are the standard
currency; there are two American churches; and the American colony is numerous
and influential. The Hawaiian Hotel is a large stone building, erected and owned by
the Government, and affording all the conveniences of a first-class hotel in any part
of the world. It
has roomy, shaded
court -yards, broad
piazzas, wide halls,
and large rooms,
baths and gas, and a
billiard-room. "You
might imagine your
self in San Francisco
were it not that you
drive in under the
shade of cocoanut,
tamarind, guava, and
algeroha trees, and
find all the doors
and windows open
in mid-winter, and
ladies and children
in white sitting on
the piazzas." Hono
lulu, being the seat
of government and
Farhament-House. ¦ -i .... , .
residence of the king,
contains, of course, a number of public buildings. The Parliament-House is a sub
stantial edifice, built of a concrete stone. made on the spot, and contains most of

HONOLULU. 129
the public offices. The royal or Iolani Palace is a spacious one-story edifice, built
of coral from the reef in the harbor, and standing in the midst of ample grounds.
It is unpretentious-looking from the outside ; but is richly furnished, and contains
a number of rare curiosities. Other important public buildings are the Supreme
Court, the Treasury, and the general Post-Office, and there are a theatre and a bank.
The charitable and penal institutions are admirably administered, and the Queen's
Hospital and the Reform School are well worth the attention of the stranger. The
Prison not only deserves a visit for itself, but from its roof is obtained one of the
finest views of Honolulu and the adjacent country and ocean. Besides the Ameri
can churches, there are a Catholic cathedral, an Anglican church, and two native
churches; numerous schools for native and foreign children; an academy called
Oahu College, attended mainly by foreign youths; and three weekly and two
monthly publications. There is a pleasant foreign society in Honolulu, principally
American and English. The people are extremely hospitable and kind, and do their
utmost to make the stranger feel at home. There is a certain old-fashioned formal
ity, but no striving after effect, no petty cliques or coteries, and no effort at exclu-
siveness. The average of intelligence is very high ; both men and women are
well-read; and the ladies are lively and well-dressed. An excellent band plays in
public places several times a week; and the monotony of life is agreeably broken
by parties, dinners, and social entertainments.
The climate of Honolulu is remarkably mild and uniform; the extreme range of
the thermometer is between 60° and 87°. In the winter months the range is be
tween 68° and 81°, and during the summer between 75° and 87°. The hottest part
of the day is shortly before noon. The mornings are often a little overcast until
about half-past nine, when it clears away bright; the nights are cool enough for
sound rest, but never cold ; blankets are seldom or never required. The rainfall is
irregular, but averages about 41 inches. The porous soil absorbs the water quickly,
and miasmatic complaints are rare. Many invalids find it pleasant to reside in
Honolulu all the year round ; but for consumptives it is better to go higher up the
mountains from the middle of May till the end of September.
The scenery around Honolulu is of the most charming tropical character, and a
number of pleasant excursions can be made from the town. The usual way of
making these excursions is on horseback ; but carriages are easily procured, and
several of the roads are good. A horse, with saddle and bridle, may be hired for
$1 a day ; but for a prolonged stay it is better to buy one, as it can be had for from
$12 to $25, and costs only 50 cents a day to keep. The valley of Nuuanu, at the
end of which Honolulu lies, offers some delightful rides and drives. It is the most
fertile spot on the island, and contains many lovely gardens and villas, including
that of Queen Emma. About 6 miles from the town is the Pali, or precipice of
Nuuanu, 1,100 feet above the plain, with cliffs on each side rising nearly 1,600 feet
higher still. The view from the precipice is grand and beautiful beyond descrip
tion. Another favorite excursion is to Waikiki, the Long Branch of the Hawaiians,
beautifully situated amid groves of cocoanut-trees. "When you have seen Hono
lulu and the Nuuanu Valley," says Mr. Nordhoff, " and bathed and drunk cocoanut-
milk at Waikiki, you will be ready for a charming excursion— the ride around the
island of Oahu. For this, you should take several days. It is most pleasantly made
by a party of three or four persons, and ladies, if they can sit in the saddle at all,
can very well do it. You should provide yourself with a pack-mule, which will
carry not only spare clothing, but some provisions; and your guide ought to take
care of your horses, and be able, if necessary, to cook you a lunch. _ The ride is
easily done in four days, and you will sleep every night at a plantation or farm.
The roads are excellent for riding, and carriages have made the journey. It is best
to set out by way of Pearl River and return by the Pali, as thus you have the trade-
wind in your face all the way. If you are accustomed to ride, and can do 30 miles
a day, you should sleep the first night at or near Waialua, the next at or near what
is called the Mormon Settlement, and on the third day ride into Honolulu. If ladies
are of your party, and the stages must be shorter, you can ride the first day to Ewa,
which is hut 10 miles; the next to Waialua, 18 miles farther; the third to the neigh-

130 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.
borhood of Kahuku, 12 miles; thence to Kahana, 15 miles; thence to Kaalea, 12
miles; and the next day carries you, by an easy ride of 13 miles, into Honolulu.
Any one who can sit on a horse at all will enjoy this excursion, and derive benefit
from it ; the different stages of it are so short that each day's work is only a pleasure.
On the way you will see, near Ewa, the Pearl Lochs, which it has recently been
proposed to cede as a naval station to the United States ; and near Waialua an inter
esting boarding-school for Hawaiian girls, in which they are taught not only in the
usual studies but in sewing and the various arts of the housewife. If you are curi
ous to see the high valley in which the famous Waialua oranges are grown, you must
take a day for that purpose. Between Kahuku and Kahana it is worth while to
make a detour into the mountains to see the Kaliawa Falls, which are a very pictu
resque sight. The rock, at a height of several hundred feet, has been curiously worn
by the water into the shape of a canoe. Here also the precipitous walls are cov
ered with masses of fine ferns. At Kahana, and also at Koloa, you will see rice-
fields, which are cultivated by Chinese. You pass also on your road several sugar-
plantations ; and if it is the season of sugar-boiling you will be interested in this
process. For miles you ride along the sea-shore, and your guide will lead you to
proper places for a mid-day bath, preliminary to your lunch. After leaving the
Mormon Settlement, the scenery becomes very grand — it is, indeed, as fine as any
on the islands, and compares well with any scenery in the world. That it can be
seen without severe toil gives it, for such people as myself, no slight advantage over
some other scenery in these islands and elsewhere, access to which can be gained
only by toilsome and disagreeable journeys. There is a blending of sea and moun
tain which will dwell in your memory as not oppressively grand, and yet fine
enough to make you thankful that Providence has made the world so lovely and
fair. " As you approach the Pali the mountain becomes a sheer precipice for some
miles, broken only by the gorge of the Pali, up which, if you are prudent, you will
walk, letting your horses follow with the guide — though Hawaiian horsemen ride
both up and down, and have been known to gallop down the stone-paved and slip
pery steep. As you look up at these tall, gloomy precipices, you see one of the pe
culiarities of a Sandwich Island landscape. The rocks are not bare, but covered
from base to crown with moss and ferns; and these cling so closely to the surface
that to your eye they seem to be but a short, close-textured green fuzz. In fact,
these great rocks, thus adorned, reminded me constantly of the rock-scenery in such
operas as 'FraDiavolo,' the dark green being of a shade which I do not remember to
have seen before in Nature, though it is not uncommon in theatrical scenery. . . .
You will sleep each night in a native house, unless, as is very likely to be the
case, you have invitations to stop at plantation-houses on your way. At the
native houses they will kill a chicken for you, and cook taro ; hut they have no
other supplies. You can usually get cocoanuts, whose milk is very wholesome and
refreshing. The journey is like a somewhat prolonged picnic ; the air is mild and
pure ; and you need no heavy clothing, for you are sure of bright, sunny weather."
A guide for such a journey costs $1 a day, which includes his horse; for a night's
accommodation at a native house, 50 cents for each person is considered abundant.
Maui and Lahaina.
Maui, the second island of the group in size, contains 603 square miles and con
sists of two mountainous peninsulas connected by a low isthmus. It is the seat of
the largest sugar -plantations, and yields more of this product than any of the other
islands. It is notable also for possessing Mauna-Haleakala, an extinct volcano
10,200 feet high, which has the largest crater in the world — a monstrous pit 27 miles
in circumference and 2,000 feet deep. Lahaina, the capital of Maui, lies on the south
west side of the island, and is reached from Honolulu by steamer or schooner once
a week and sometimes oftener. It is a pretty little town, nestling along the shore
at the foot of rugged mountains, and like Honolulu is sheltered from the violent
trade-winds and rain-storms. The climate is rather milder than that of Honolulu,

HILO AND THE VOLCANOES. 131
the range being between 54° and 86°. Above Lahaina, at an elevation of 3,000
feet, the thermometer ranges between 40° and 75°. The rainfall is about 39 inches,
and the soil quickly absorbs it. There are fewer visitors to Lahaina than to Hono
lulu, and consequently the accommodations are much inferior, but private board may
he obtained with certain resident families.
An excursion often made from Lahaina is to the summit of Mauna-Haleakala.
It is neither dangerous nor difficult, but it is tedious, involving as it does a ride of
about 12 miles mostly over lava and up-hill. It is advisable to go up during the
day, and sleep in one of the lava-caves, so as to get the view of the crater at sun
rise. For this a guide is necessary, with provisions and blankets, and water-proof
clothing is likely to prove useful. Almost all the islands are visible from the sum
mit of the crater, but the crater itself is the most impressive spectacle. It is 10
miles in diameter, and the vast irregular floor lies 2,000 feet below its crest. From
this floor rise more than a dozen subsidiary craters or cones, some of them 750 feet
high. From the summit the eye readily takes in the whole crater ; not a tree,
shrub, or even tuft of grass, obstructs the view. It is possible to ride down into
the crater, and the natives have a trail, not much used, by which they pass ; but it
is very difficult to follow and must not be attempted without an experienced guide.
HUo and the Volcanoes.
Hilo lies on the eastern or windward side of the great island of Hawaii, and after
Honolulu is the largest town in the kingdom, having a population of about 5,000.
It is reached from Honolulu by a little inland steamer which makes a weekly tour of
nearly all the islands of the group. The time required for the journey from Hono
lulu to Hilo is three days, and the fare is $15, or $25 for the round trip. The town
and district of Hilo are among the most beautiful regions of the tropics ; the town
consisting of shops and stores along the beach, and white houses hidden in umbra
geous groves of cocoanut, bread-fruit, pandanus, and other southern trees, many of
them bearing brilliant flowers. There are four churches in the town, but no hotel,
though good accommodations may be had at the large house of Mr. Severance, Sheriff
of Hawaii, or, if that is full, at other houses. There is a considerable population of
Americans in the place, who are always ready to extend a welcome to anybody from
" home." The climate of Hilo is warm and extraordinarily wet, the rainfall amount
ing, as we have already said, to 11 feet per annum. As much as 10 inches has been
known to fall in a single day, and it rains nearly every day. Nevertheless the
town is quite healthy, and some invalids seem to derive especial benefit from its
moist atmosphere. The district of Hilo is cut up by the deep channels of no less
than 50 large streams, which fall into the sea within a length of coast about 25 miles in
extent, discharging the rains that are poured by the trade-winds upon the northeast
flanks of Mauna-Kea. The freshets in these streams often come on so suddenly as
to resemble the deluge produced by the sudden breaking of a mill-dam. The cocoa-
nut and the banana are found in perfection at Hilo, and other characteristic tropical
products are abundant.
Hilo is the most convenient point of departure for a visit to the great volcano of
Kilanea, the largest active crater in the world. The distance to the crater is about
40 miles over a rough trail through forests and over immense fields of lava, and the
entire journey can be made on horseback with no difficulty except what comes from
the inevitable fatigue. Mr. Nordhoff made the ascent with a party of ladies and
children in 1873, and gives some details which the traveler will find useful. The
charge at Hilo for horses for the journey is $10 each, with $1 a day for the guide.
At the Volcano House (at the crater) the charge for horse and man is $5 a day,
with half-price for the guide. For a special guide into the crater there is an addi
tional charge of $1. It is useless to wait for a fine day, as it will probably rain at
any rate before the Volcano House is reached, and if you have started in a heavy
rain the sun is likely to be out within two or three hours. Each traveler should
take water-proof clothing upon his own saddle, and the pack-mule should carry some
spare clothing, well covered with India-rubber blankets, and a lunch to be eaten at

132 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.
the Half-way House. The ascent is made in from 6 to 10 hours; the night may be
comfortably spent at the Volcano House, and the next day should be given to the
crater. Kilauea is situated on the eastern side of Mauna-Loa, at an elevation of
3,970 feet, and is a stupendous pit 8 miles in circumference and 1,000 feet in depth.
It is of irregular shape, with almost perpendicular walls of a kind of limestone.
The inside is rimmed with cooled lava, called the " black ledge," from 300 to 2,000
feet wide and about 800 feet deep. The descent into the crater is effected by a
series of steps and a scramble over lava and rock debris. The greater part of the
floor is a mass of dead though not cold lava, and at the farthest extremity of the pit,
3 miles from the Volcano House, are (or were in 1873, for the features of the place
are constantly changing) two large caldrons or lakes about -J- mile long and 500 feet
wide, filled with "a red, molten, fiery, sulphurous, raging, roaring, restless mass of
matter," incessantly agitated, heaving to and fro in long, heavy waves, and occasion
ally shooting up a fiery tongue 30 feet or more into the air. The surface of this
boiling lava is about 80 feet below the margin of the lakes, but the heat is so great
that it will sometimes blister the feet through thick shoes, and it is impossible to ap
proach save on the windward side. On the bank of the lake are several cones or
orifices opening down into the fiery gulf below. "Into these holes we looked, and
saw a very wonderful and terrible sight. Below us was a stream of lava, rolling
and surging and beating against huge, precipitous, red hot cliffs ; and higher up,
suspended from other also red or white hot cliffs, depended huge stalactites, like
masses of fiercely glowing fern-leaves waving about in the subterraneous wind ; and
here we saw how thiu was in some such places the crust over which we walked, and
how near the melting-point must be its under-surface. For. as far as we could judge,
these little craters or cones rested upon a crust not thicker than 12 or 14 inches, and
one fierce blast from below seemed sufficient to melt away the whole place. Fortu
nately, one cannot stay very long near these openings, for they exhale a very poison
ous breath: and so we were drawn back to the more fascinating but less perilous
spactacle of the lakes ; and then back over the rough lava, our minds filled with mem
ories of a spectacle which is certainly one of the most remarkable our planet af
fords." At the Volcano House guides, provisions, and animals, may be procured for
the ascent of Miuna-Loa (14,000 feet high), but the ride is not easy, and one who
undertakes it must be well prepared in the way of clothing. The crater at the sum
mit is a pit about 3 miles in circumference, with precipitous walls about 2,000 feet
deep. At the bottom is a burning lake which throws up a jet. more or less con
stant, to the height of 400 or 503 feet from the surface of the lake.
The return to Hilo should be by way of the Puna coast. This involves a ride of
nearly 70 mile3 over a very desolate country, but it will afford some very wonderful
and novel sights, and give one such a conception as can be obtained in no other way
of the prodigious activity of the forces which have found periodical vents in the
eruptions from Kilauea and Mauna-Loa. Another journey which Mr. Nordhoff
recommends is a ride from Hilo along the northeastern coast, through the Hamakua
and Kohala districts, to Kealakeakua Bay, where Captain Cook was killed. There a
schooner may be taken for Honolulu, or the ride may be prolonged through Kau and
Puna back to Hilo.
In the Hamakua district, in the interior of the island, is the little town of Waimea,
which is noted for its even and comparatively low temperature. Observations ex
tending over many years show the average to be 65° Fahr., and the place may be
fairly called the sanitarium of Hawaii, for to it yearly flock those whose consti
tutions have become enervated by too long a residence near the coast.
Kauai.
Kauai is the most uniformly tropical in character of the entire group of islands,
is fertile and abundantly watered, and contains much beautiful scenery. It lies
farthest to seaward of the main islands, and as the steamer usually visits it but once
a month, it is comparatively little visited by strangers. Nevertheless an excursion
thither from Honolulu will prove a very enjoyable episode. The best method of mak-

KAUAI. 133
bag it without unnecessary waste of time is to take passage in a schooner, so timing
your visit as to secure a week or ten days on the island before the steamer arrives
to carry you hack. Mr. Nordhoff made such an excursion, and thus describes it :
" We took passage on a little sugar-schooner, the Fairy Queen, of about 75 tuns,
commanded by a smart native captain, and sailing one afternoon about two o'clock,
and sleeping comfortably on deck wrapped in rugs, were landed at Waimea [not
the Waimea already mentioned as being on Hawaii] the following morning at day
break. When you travel on one of these little native schooners you must provide
food for yourself, for poi and a little beef or fish make up the sea-ration as well as
the land-food of the Hawaiians. In all other respects you may expect to he treated
with the most distinguished consideration, and the most ready and thoughtful kind
ness, by captain and crew ; and the picturesque mountain-scenery of Oahu, which
you have in sight so long as daylight lasts, and the lovely starlit night, with its
soft gales and warm air, combine to make the voyage a delightful adventure.
" As usual in these islands, a church was the first and most conspicuous land
mark that greeted our eyes in the morning. Abundant groves of cocoanuts, lor
which the place is famous, assured us of a refreshing morning draught. The lit
tle vessel was anchored off the shore, and our party, jumping into a whale-boat,
were quickly and skillfully steered through the slight surf which pours upon the
beach. The boat was pulled upon the black sand ; and the lady who was of my
party found herself carried to the land in the stout arms of the captain ; 'while the
rest of us watched our chance, and, as the waves receded, leaped ashore, and man
aged to escape with dry feet. The sun had not yet risen ; the early morning
was a little overcast. A few natives, living on the beach, gathered around and
watched curiously the landing of our saddles and saddle-bags from the beat;
presently that pushed off, and our little company sat down upon an old spar,
and watched the schooner as she hoisted sails and bore away for her proper port,
while we waited for the appearance of a native person of seme authority to
whom a letter had been directed, requesting him to provide us with horses and
a guide to the house of a friend with whom we intended to breakfast. Pres
ently three or four men came galloping along the beach, one of whom, a burly
Hawaiian, a silver shield on whose breast announced him a local officer of police,
reported that he was at our service with as. many horses as we needed. It is
one of the embarrassing incidents of travel on these isknds that there are no
hotels or inns outside of Honolulu and Hilo. Whether he will or not, the trav
eler must accept the hospitality of the residents, and this is so general and so
boundless that it would impose a burdensome obligation were it not offered in
such a kindly and graceful way as to beguile you into the belief that you are
conferring as well as receiving a favor. Nor is the foreigner alone generous;
for a native, too, if you come with a letter from his friend at a distance, places
himself and all he has at your service. When we had reached our friend's house,
I asked my conductor, the policeman, what I should pay him for the use of three
horses and his own services. He replied that he was hut too happy to have
been of use to me, as I was the friend of his friend. I managed to force upon
him a proper reward for his attention, but I am persuaded that he would have
been content without.
" Kauai is probably the oldest of the Hawaiian group ; according to the geol
ogists, it was first thrown up ; the bottom of the ocean began to crack up there
to the northwest, and the rent gradually extended in the southeasterly direction
necessary to produce the other islands. It would seem that Kauai must be a
good deal older than Hawaii ; for, whereas the latter is covered with undecayed
lava and has two active volcanoes, the former has a rich and deep covering of
soil and except in a few places, there are no very plain or conspicuous cones
or craters. Of course, the whole island bears the clearest traces of its volcanic
origin ¦ and near Koloa there are three small craters in a very good state of
preservation. Having thus more soil than the other islands, Kauai has also more
grass • being older, not only are its valleys somewhat richer, but its mountains
are also more picturesque than those of Maui and Hawaii, as also they are much

134 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.
lower. The roads are excellent for horsemen, and for the most part practicable
for carriages, of which, however, there are none to be hired.
"The best way to see the island is to land, as we did, at Waimea; ride to
a singular spot called the ' barking sands ' — a huge sand-hill, sliding down which you
hear a dull rumble like distant thunder, probably the result of electricity. On the
way you meet with a mirage, remarkable for this that it is a constant phenomenon
— that is to say, it is to be seen daily at certain hours, and is the apparition of
a great lake, having sometimes high waves which seem to submerge the cattle
which stand about, apparently, in the wrater. From the sands you return to
Waimea, and can ride thence next day to Koloa in the forenoon, and to Na- Wili-
wili in the afternoon. The following day's ride will bring you to Hanalei, a
highly-picturesque valley which lies on the rainy side of the island, Waimea be
ing on the dry side. At Hanalei you should take the steamer, and sail in her
around the Palis of Kauai, a stretch of precipitous cliff 25 miles long, the whole
of which is inaccessible from the sea, except by the native people in canoes ; and
many parts of which are very lovely and grand. Thus voyaging, you will circum
navigate the island, returning to Na-Wiliwili, and thence in a night to Honolulu.
" It is easy and pleasant to see Kauai, taking a store of provisions with you,
and lodging in native houses. But if you have some acquaintances in Honolulu,
you will be provided with letters of introduction to some of the hospitable for
eign families on this island ; and thus the pleasure of your visit will be greatly in
creased. . . . Kauai has many German residents, mostly persons of education and
culture, who have brought their libraries with them, and on whose tables and
shelves you may see the best of the recent literature as well as the best of the old.
A New-Yorker who imigines, cookney-like, that civilization does not reach be
yond the sound of Trinity-chimes, is startled out of this foolish fancy when he
finds among the planters and missionaries here, as in other parts of these islands,
men and women of genuine culture, maintaining all the essential forms as well
as the realities of civilization; yet living so free and untrammeled a life that
he who comes from the high-pres3ure social atmosphere of New York cannot
help but envy these happy mortals, who seem to have the good without the worry
of civilization, and who have caught the secret of how to live simply and yet
gently." The raising of cattle is the chief industry of Kauai, and a large part of the island
is given up to them. In the mountains they have gone wild, and parties are often
made up to hunt and shoot them. Rice is also an important product, and is raised
in increasing quantities on Kauai as on all the islands. There are four or five large
sugar-plantations ; and coffee grows wild in many of the valleys and on the hills.
All the tropical fruits produce abundantly, and the coacoanuts of Kauai are par
ticularly fine.1
1 The visitor to the Sindwicb. Islands who desires more particulars than we could find space for
should provide himself with Mr. Charles Nordhoff's " Northern California, Oregon, and the Sandwich
Islands," and with Brigham's '¦ Memoir on the Hawaiian Volcanoes."

TABLE OF RAILWAY FARES.

135

TABLE OF RAILWAY FARES
Feom New York to the Leading Cities and Places of Interest in the United States and Canada.
§3^" The Railroad named is that by which the traveler leaves New York.
Jggp" The rates given are those which obtain at the time of going to press, hut are liable to change
at any moment. Special tickets are sold for all points West at an average reduction of $i from regular
rates.

NEW YORK TO
Albany, N. Y 
a u
Atlanta, Ga  ,
Atlantic City, X. J 
Augusta, Ga 
Baltimore, Md 
Bangor, Me  ,
Berkeley Springs, V i. . . .
Boston, Mass 
Bridgeport, Conn 
Buffalo, N. Y 
Burlington, Iowa 
Burlington, Vt 
Cape May, N. J 
Charleston, S. C 
Chattanooga, Teun 
Chicago, 111 
Cincinnati, Ohio 
Cleveland, " 
Clifton Springs, N. Y 
Colorado Springs, Col. . . .
Columbus, Ohio 
Concord, N. H 
Cooperstown, N. Y 
Delaware Water-Gap, Pa
Denver, Col 
Detroit, Mich 
Frankfort, Ky 
Galveston, Texas 
Halifax, Can 
Hartford, Conn 
Houst m, Texas 
Indianapolis, Ind 
Jacksonville, Fla 
Kansas City, Mo 
Kingston, Can 
Little Rock, Ark 
Long Branch, N. J 
Louisville, Ky 
Lynchburg, Va 
Macon, Ga 
Madison, Wis 
Maucb Chunk, Pa 
Memphis, Tenn 
Milwaukee, Wis 

VIA
Hudson River R. R 
Steamer 
Pennsylvania R. R 
New Jersey Southern R. R 
Pennsylvania R. R 
New York & New Haven R. R 
Pennsylvania R. R 
New York & New Haven R. R 
Fall River Steamboats or " Stonington Line ". . . .
New York & New Haven R. R 
New York Central or Erie_R. R 
New York Central & Hudson River R. R 
New Jersey Southern R. R 
Pennsylvania R. R 
ii a
New York Central, Erie, or Pennsylvania R. R. . .
Erie, Pennsylvania, or New York Central R. R. . .
Erie, New York Central, or Pennsylvania R. R. . .
New York Central & Hudson River R. R 
Pennsylvania, Erie, or New York Central R. R. . .
" or Erie R. R 
New York & New Haven R. R 
New York Central & Hudson River R. R 
Morris & Essex R. R 
Pennsylvania, Erie, or New York Central R. R. . .
New York Central or Erie R. R 
New York Central, Erie, or Pennsylvania R. R. . . ,
Pennsylvania or Erie R. R 
New York & New Haven R. R 
New York & New Haven R. R 
Pennsylvania or Erie R. R 
Erie, New York Central, or Pennsylvania R. R. . . .
Pennsvlvania R. R 
Erie, Pennsylvania, or New York Central R. R. . . .
New York Central & Hudson River R. R 
Erie, Pennsylvania, or New York Central R. R. ...
New Jersey Central (or steamboat from Pier 8,
North River) 
Erie, Pennsylvania, or New York Central R. R. . .
Pennsylvania R. R 
* d d
New York Central, Erie, or Pennsylvania R. R. . .
Morris & Essex or New Jersey Central R. R 
Pennsylvania or Erie R. R 
New York Central, Erie, or Pennsylvania R. R. .

Price of through-

Tickets.

P

10

2

00 .

27 50

3

00

26

00

6

20

12

50

11

95

6

00

4 00

1

50

9

25

29

25

8

65

4

50

25

00

27 00

22

00

20

00

14

25

7 34

83 75

17

50

7

50

6

15

2

55

73

00

16

25

24

60

55

25

22

00

3

00

59

75

21

00

36

05

38

00

9

20

41

40

1

00

24

00

15

00

29

35

26

90

3

60

35

00

25

00

136

HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN WINTER RESORTS.

TABLE OF RAILWAY FARES.— (Continued.)

NEW YORK TO

Mobile, Ala 
Montgomery, Ala.
Montpelier, Vt.. . .
Montreal, Can. . . .
Nashville, Tenn.. .
New Haven, Conn.
New Orleans, La..
Newport, R. I. . . .

Niagara Falls ....
Northampton, Mas
Oil City, Pa 
Omaha, Neb 
Ottawa, Can 
Philadelphia, Pa. .
Pittsburg, Pa 
Pittsfield, Mass. . .
Plattsburg, N. Y. .
Portland, Me 

Portsmouth, N. H.
Providence, R. I. .

Quebec, Can 
Richmond, Va 
Rochester, N. Y 
Rutland, Vt 
Sacramento, Cal 
St. Augustine, Fla 
St. John, N. B 
St. Joseph, Mo 
St. Louis, Mo 
St. Paul, Minn 
Salt Lake City, Utah. . .
San Francisco, Cal 
Saratoga Springs, N. Y.
Savannah, Ga 
Sharon Springs, N. Y...
Springfield, 111 
Springfield, Mass 
Staunton, Va 
Toledo, Ohio 
Toronto, Can 
Trenton Falls, N. Y 
Vicksburg, Miss 
Washington, D. C 
Watkins Glen, N. Y 
White Mountains, N. H.
White Sui. Springs, Va .
Wilkesbarre, Pa 
Wilmington, N. C 
Yosemite Valley, Cal. . .

Price of through-
Tickets.

New York Central & Hudson River R. R
Hudson River R. R
Pennsylvania or Erie R. R
New York & New Haven R. R
Pennsylvania or Erie R. R
New York & New Haven R. R. (or Fall River steam
ers.
Erie or New York Central R. R
New York & New Haven R. R,
Erie R. R
New York Central, Erie, or Pennsylvania R. R . . .
New York Central R. R 
Pennsylvania or NewJersey Central R. R 
Pennsylvania or New Jersey Central R. R 
New York & New Haven R. R 
Hudson River R. R 
New York & New Haven R. R. (or steamer to Fall
River or Stonington) 
New York & New Haven R. R 
New York & New Haven R. R. (or steamer of
" Providence Line," $3) 
New York & New Haven R. R 
Pennsylvania R. R 
New York Central or Erie R. R 
New York Central & Hudson River R. R 
New Tork Central, Erie, or Pennsylvania R. R. . .
Pennsylvania R. R 
New York & New Haven R. R 
New York Central, Erie, or Pennsylvania R. R. . .

Hudson River R. R 
Pennsylvania R. R 
New York Central & Hudson River R. R 
Pennsylvania or Erie R. R 
New York & New Haven R. R 
Pennsylvania R. R 
Erie or Pennsylvania R. R 
Erie or New York Cental R. R 
New York Central and Hudson River R. R 
Pennsylvania or Erie R. R 
Pennsylvania R. R 
New York Central or Erie R. R 
New York & New Haven R. R. (or steamer route
to Boston) 
Pennsylvania R. R 
Morris & Essex or New Jersey Central R. R 
Pennsylvania R. R 
Pennsylvania, Erie, or New York Central R. R. . .

$45 00
36 50
10 30
12 00
31 45
2 00
47 50

9 50
8 20
5 00
14 50
12 85
7 68
6 15
138 00
40 75
16 50
38 00
27 00
36 00
117 50
138 00
4 65
28 80
5 15
26 50
3 75
14 20
17 60
12 25
5 72
43 80
7 50
7 90
11 25
18 05
5 00
22 00
190 00

t'-Sr* Tickets to all points West and South are also sold via
Baltimore Sc Obio R. R., including Washington City en route.

IN DEX.

Aguadilla, Porto Rico, 116.
Aiken, S. C, 49.
Alachua Sink, Fla., 14.
Alalia, Fla., 20.
Alameda, Cat, 84.
Algiers, La.. 103
Ahnaden Quicksilver Mines, Cal.,
sit.
Amicalolah Falls, Ga., 41.
Annuttelaga Hammock, Fla., 24.
Appaiaehieola, Fla., 26.
Arecibo, Porto Rico, 1 1 6.
Arkansas Canon, CoL, 77.
Asheville, N. C, 59.
Auelote Eiver, Fla., 26.
Augusta, Ga., 86.
Bahama Islands, 109.
Bald Eagle Lake, Minn., 63
Baldwin, Fla., 14.
Balsam Mountains, N. C. 64.
¦ Barbadoes, West Indie*. 117.
Butabano, Cuba, 199.
Baton Rouge. La., 96.
Bayamon, Porto Rico, 116.
Bayport, Fla., 26.
Bermuda Islands, 121.
Biscayne Bay, Fla., i7.
Blue Spring, Fla,, IS.
Boiling Springs, Col., 77.
Bradford Lake, Fla.. 25.
Breckenridge, Col., 79.
Brevard, N. C, 64.
Bridal- Veil Falls, Minn.. 69.
Bridgetown, Barbadoes. Us.
Cesar's Head, S. C, 54.
Cairo, Ky., 93.
Calhoun Lake, Minn., 69.
Calistoga, Cat, 91.
Canon City, Col., 77.
Cape Haytien, Hayti. 115.
Carrollton, La., 1(13.
Cashier's Vallev. N". C„ 60.
Cataracts of Tallulah. Ga., 40.
Catoosa Springs, Ga.. 89.
Cedar Keys, Fla., 14.
Cedar Lake. Minn., 69.
Chalybeate Springs. Ga, 39.
Charleston. S. C. 42.
Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas, 116.
Charlotte Harbor, Fla.. 27.
Cheyenne Canon. Cul . 76.
Chicago Lakes, Col . 77.
Chick's Springs, S. O., 58.
Chimney Rock. Minn., G9.
Chimney-Top, N. C, 61.
Christiansted. West Indies, 117.
Clarksville, Ga., 89.
Clayton. Ga., 39.
Clear- Water Harhor. Fla.._2fi.
Clingman's Dome, N C, 58.
Cold Mountain. S.C.. 59.
Colorado Springs. Col., 75.
Columbus, Kv.. 93.
Como Lake, Minn.. 68.
Conestee Falls, N. O.. 6*.
Congress Mineral Springs, Cal., 90.
Crystal River, Fla.. 26.
Curacoa, West Indies, 118
Dahlonega. Ga., 39.
Dancv's Wharf, Fla., 17.
Daytona, Fla.. 24.
Denver, Col.. 75.
Dominica, West Indies, 120.
Drayton Island. Fla.. 18.
Dry Tortugas, Fla., 29.
Eastatoia Falls, Ga., 41.
10

Enterprise, Fla., is.
Ewa, Sandwich Islands, 130.
Fairplay, Col., 79.
Falls :
Amicalolah, Ga., 41.
Bridal Veil, Minn., 6 '.
Conestee, N. C, (54.
Eastatoia, Ga., 41.
Hiawassee, Ga., 41.
Minnehaha, Minn , 68.
Slicking, S. C, 55.
St. Anthony, Minn., 6.'.
Tallulah, Ga., 41.
Toccoa, Ga., 39.
Tovvaligo, Ga., 89.
Faribault, Minn , 70.
Federal Point, Fla., 16.
Fernandina. Fla, 13.
Flat Rock, S. C, 60.
Fort Capron. Fla., 28.
Fort Pillow, Ky.. 94.
Frederickstadt, West Indies, 117.
French Broad River, N. C, 62.
Frontenac, Minn , 70.
Gainesville, Fia., 14, 24.
Garden of the Gods, Col., 76.
George Lake, Fla., 18.
Georgetown, Col., 77.
Geyser Springs, Cal . 91.
Glen Cannon Falls. N C, 64.
(lien Eyrie, Col., 76.
Glenn Springs. S C , 53.
Gonaives, Hayti, 115.
Gordon's SpriDgs, Ga.. 89.
Grandfather Mountain, N. C, 59.
Grand Gulf, Miss , 95.
Grand Lake, Col., 79.
Gray's Peak, Col., 78
Great Yuma Desert Cal., &7.
Green Cove Springs, Fla., 16.
Green Spring, Fla., 19.
Greenville. S. C, 04.
Grenada, West Indies, 120.
Gretna, I a., 108.
Guadaloupe, West Indies, 120.
Guanabacao, Cuba. 107.
Guayama, l'orto Kico, 116.
Gulf Hammcck, Fla.. 24.
Halifax City, Fla., 24.
Hamburg, S. C, 87.
Hamilton, Bermudas, 122.
Hamilton, Col., 79.
Hamosassa. Fla., 26.
Hanah i. Sandwich Islands, 134
Harbin's Springs, Cal., 91.
Harbor Island, 110.
Harney Lake, Fla., 19.
Harriet Lake, Minn., 09.
Harris Lake, Fla., 23.
Havana, Cuba, 105.
Hawkinsviile, Fla., 18.
Hawk's Bill, N. C, 60.
Hayti, WeBt Indies, 112.
He'aldsburg. Cal., 91.
Hiawassee Falls, Ga., 41.
Hibernia, Fla., 1 6.
Hickory-Nut Gap. S. C. 60.
Hilo. Sandwich Islands, 131.
Hogarth's Landing. Fla.. 16.
Honolulu, Sandwich Islands. 128.
Hot Springs, Ark., 71.
Hot Sulphur Springs, Cal., 85.
Hot Sulphur Springs, Col., 7s.
Idaho Springs, Col., 77.
Indian River, Fla , 28.
Indian Springs, Ga., 89.

Iron Banks, Ky., 94.
Island No. 10, 94.
Jackson Lake, Fla., 25.
Jacksonville. Ha., 6.
Jacmel, Hayti, 116.
Jamaica, West Indies, 110.
James Island, S. C , 48.
Jereinie, Hayti, 115.
Jessup Lake, Fla., 19.
Jocasse Valley, S. C, 65.
Jorobado, Isle of Pines, 109.
Kaalea, Sandwich Islands, 130.
Kahaua, Sandwich Islands, J 80.
Kahuku, Sandwich Islands, 130.
Kauai. Sandwich Islands, 182.
Kealakeakua Bay, Sandwich Isl
ands, 182.
Keowee River, 8. C, 1:5.
Key Biscayne. I la., 27.
Key West, Fla., 27.
Kilauea, Sandwich Islands, 181.
Kingston, Isle St. Vincent, 117
Kingston, Jamaica, 112.
Koloa, Sandwich Islands, 139, 134.
Lafayette Lake, P la., 25.
Lahaina, Sandwich Islands, 181.
Lake City, Fla., 24.
Lakes :
Bald Eagle, Minn., 68.
Bradfoid, Fla., Lfi.
Calhoun, Minn., 69.
Cedar, Minn., 69.
Cherry, Fla., 25.
Chicago. Col., 77.
Como, Minn., 68.
Francis, 1 la., '. 5.
George. Fla., 18.
Grand, Col., 79.
Harney. I la . 19.
Harriet, Minn., 69.
Harris, Fla., '-3.
Jackson, Fla., 25.
Jessup, Ha.. 19.
Lafayette, Fla , 25.
Little Lake George, Fla., 18.
Mary, Ha,, 25.
Miccosukie, Fla., 25.
Minnetonka, Minn., 69.
Monroe, Fla., 18.
Pepin. Minn., (9.
Pontchartrain. La , 103.
Rachel, Fla., 25.
Salt Lake, Fla., 19.
San Luis, Col., 79.
Santa Fe, Fla.. 14.
White Bear, Minn., 08.
Las Animas. Col., 77.
Leesburg, Fla., 29.
Limestone Springs, S. C, 53.
Linnville Gorge. N. C, 00.
Little Lake George, Fla., 18.
Little Manatee. Fla., 27.
Looking-Glass Falls, N. O, 64.
Los Angeles. Cal., 86.
Madison Springs. Ga., 89.
Magnolia, Fla., 16.
Manatee, Fla., 27.
Mandarin, Fla., 16.
Manitou Springs, Col., 75.
Marianao, Cuba, 107.
Martinique, West Indies, 120.
Matanzas, Cuba, 108.
Matanzas, Fla., 18.
Mauna-Haleakela, Sandwich Isl
ands, 131.
Mauna-Kea, Sandwich Islands, 181.

138

INDEX.

Mauna-Loa, Sandwich Islands, 132.
Mayaguez, Porto Rico, 116.
Mellonville, Fla., 18.
Memphis, Tenn., 94.
Miccosukie Lake, Fla., 25.
Middlehurg, Fla., 16.
Middle Park, Col., 78.
Million Springs, N. C, 59.
Millview, Fla., 26. '.
Milot, Hayti, 115.
Mineral Springs :
Boiling, Col., 77.
Blue, Fla., 18.
Catoosa, Ga., 89.
Chalybeate, Ga,, 39.
Chick's, S. C, 53.
Congress. Cal., 90. I
Geyser, Cal., 91.
Glenn, S. C , 53.
Gordon's, Ga., 39.
Green, Fla., 19.
Green Cove, Fla., 16.
Harbin's, Cal., 91.
Hot Ark., 71.
Hot Sulphur, Cal.. 85.
Hot Sulphur, Col., 78.
Idaho, Col., 77.
Indian, Ga., 89.
Limestone, S. C, 53.
Madison, Ga , 89.
Manitou, Col., 75.
Million. N. C, 59.
Moncrief 's, Fla., 7.
Napa Soda, Cal., 91.
Paso Robles, Cal., 87.
Piedmont, N. C, 60.
Powder, Ga., 39.
Red Sulphur, Ga., 39.
Rowland's, Ga., 89.
Silver, Fla., 22.
Sulphur, Fla., 18.
Suwanee White Sulphur, Fla , 24.
Thundering, Ga., 89.
Wakulla, Fla., 25.
Warm, Ga., 38.
Warm, N. C, 62.
White Sulphur, Cal., 91.
Williamston, S. C, 64.
Wilson's, N. C, 60.
Minneapolis, Minn., 63.
Minnehaha Falls, Minn., OS.
Minnetonka Lake, Minn., 69.
Miragoane, Hayti, 115.
Mississippi River, 92.
Moncrief 's Spring, Fla., 7.
Monroe Lake, Fla., 18.
Montecito, Cal., 85.
Monterey, Cal., 90.
Monticello, Fla., 25.
Monument Park, Col., 76.
Morganton, N. C, 60.
Mosquito Inlet, Fla., 29.
Mountain Island, N. 0.. 68.
Mount Currahee, Ga., 41.
Mount Lincoln, Col., 79.
Mount Mitchell, N. C, 58, 63.
Mount Pleasant, S. C, 48.
Mount Pisgah, N. 0., 59.
Mount Tamaulipas, Cal., 90.
Mount Vonah, Ga., 40.
Nacoochee Valley, Ga., 40.
Napa City, Cal., 90.
Napa Soda Springs, Cal., 91.
Napoleon, Ark., 95.
Nassau, Bahama Islands, 110.
Natchez, Miss., 95.
Na-Wiliwili, Sandwich Islands, 184.

New Britain, Fla., 24.
New Madrid, Mo., 94.
New Orleans, La , 97.
New Smyrna, Fla., 19.
Nickojack Cave, Ga., 41.
North Park, Col , 78.
Nueva Gerona, Isle of Pines, 109.
Nuevitas, Cuba, 109.
Oakland. Cal., 84.
Ocklawaha River, Fla., 19.
Okahumkee, Fla., 28.
Olustee, Fla., 24.
Orange Grove, Fla , 18.
Orange Mills, Fla., 17.
Painted Rocks, N. C, 63.
Paso Robles Springs, Cal., 87.
Pensacola, Fla., 26.
Pepin Lake, Minn., 69.
Pescadero, Cal., 90.
Petrified Forest, Cal., 91.
Philippi's Grove, Fla., 20.
Picolata, Fla., 16.
Piedmont Springs. N. C, 60
Pike's Peak, Col., 76.
Pilatka, Fla., 17.
Pilot Mountain, Ga., 41.
Pines. Isle of, 109.
Pisgah Mountain, N. C, 59.
Point Penales, Fla., 26.
Ponce, Porto Rico, 116.
Pontchartrain Lake, La., 103.
Port-au-Prince, Hayti, 115
Port de la Paix, Hayti, 115.
Port Orange, Fla., 24.
Porto Rico, West Indies, 115.
Powder Springs, Ga., 39.
Pueblo, Col, 77.
Puentes Grandes, Cuba, 107.
Puerto Plata, Santo Domingo, 114.
Puerto Principe, Cuba, 109.
Punta Rassa, Fla., 27
Queen's Caiion, Col., 76.
Quincy, Fla., 25.
Red Sulphur Springs, Ga., 89.
Red Wing, Minn., 69.
Riverside, Cal , 87.
Roan Mountain, N. C. , 59.
Rowland's Springs, Ga, , 39.
Saba, West Indies, 119.
Sacramento, Cal.. 87.
Saint Marc, Hayti. 115.
Salt Lake, Fla., 19.
Saluda Gap, 8. C, 60.
Saluda Mountain, S. C, 55.
Samana Bay, West Indies, 114
San Bernardino, Cal., 86.
Sand Point, Fla., 23.
Sandwich Islands, 127,
San Diego, Cal., 85.
Sandford, Fla., 18.
San Francisco, Cal., 83.
San German, Porto Rico, 116.
San Gorgonio Pass, Cal., 87.
San Jacinto Mines, Cal., 87,
San Jose, Cal., 89.
San Juan de Porto Rico, 116.
San Luis Lake, Col., 79.
San Luis Park, Col., 79.
San Mateo, Fla., Is.
San Rafael, Cal., 90.
Santa Barbara, Cal., 84.
Santa Barbara, West Indies, 114.
Santa Clara, Cal. , 89.
Santa Clara Valley, Cal., 89.
Santa Cruz, Cal, 90.
Santa Cruz, West Indies, 117.
Santa Fe, Isle of Pines, 109.

Santa Fe Lake, Fla , 14
Santiago de Cuba, 109.
Santo Domingo City, 114.
Sarrasota, Fla., 27.
Saucelito, Cal., 84.
Savannah, Ga , 32
Savana la Mar, West Indies, 114.
Silver Cascade, Minn., 69.
Silver Spring, Fla., 22.
Slicking Falls, S. C, 55.
South Park, Col., 79.
Spanish Town, Jamaica, 112.
Spartanburg, S. C, 58.
St. Anthony, Minn., 68.
St. Augustine, Fla., 7.
St. Croix, West Indies, 117.
St. Eustatius, Isle of, West Indies.
119.
St, George, Bermudas, 122.
St. John's River, Fla., 14.
St. Kitts, West Indies, 120.
St. Louis, Mo., 98.
St. Lucia, West Indies, 120.
St. Paul, Minn., 67.
St. Thomas, West Indies, 116.
St. Vincent, West Indies, 117.
Stockton, Cal, 88.
Stool Mountain, S. C, 54.
Sullivan's Island, S. 0., 49.
Sulphur Spring, Fla., 18.
Summerville, Ga., 37.
Summerville, 8. C, 49.
Suwanee White Sulphur Springs,
Fla., 24.
Swannanoa Gap, N. C. , 69.
Table Rock, N. C, 60.
Table Mountain, S. O., 54.
Tallahassee, Fla., 24.
Tampa, Fla , 27.
Terrasea Bay, Fla , 27.
Thomasville, Ga., 88.
Thunderbolt, Ga, 36.
Thundering Springs, Ga., 39.
Titusville, Fla., 23.
Toccoa FallB, Ga., 39.
Tocoi, Fla.. 16.
Towaligo Falls, Ga., 89.
Trempeleau Island, Minn., 69.
Trinidad. Col., 77.
Turkey Creek Cation, Col., 79.
Turk's Island, 110.
Ute Falls, Col., 75.
Ute Pass, Col., 75.
Vallejo, Cal , 90.
Vicksburg, Miss., 95.
Visalia, Cal., 88.
Volusia, Fla., 18.
Waialua, Sandwich Islands, 180.
Waimea, Sandwich Islands, 132.
Wakulla Spring, Fla., 25.
i Waldo, Fla., 14.
i Warm Springs, Ga., 38.
Warm Springs, N. C., 02.
Warrington, Fla., 26.
Welaka, Fla., 18,
Wellborn, Fla., 24.
White Bear Lake, Minn., 68.
White Bluff, Ga , 36.
Whiteside Mountain, N. <"!., 61.
White Sulphur Springs, Cal., 91.
White Water Cataracts, B.C., 55.
Willemsted, Curacoa, 118.
Williamston Springs, S. C, 54.
Wilson's Springs, N. C, 60.
Winona, Minn., 69.
Woolsey, Fla., 26.
Yonah Mountain, Ga., 40.

SOME USEFUL HINTS.

There are certain things with which every traveler must supply himself before starting
on his journey, and certain facts, a knowledge of which will be useful to him while on his
way. For this reason, a little time devoted to an examination of our advertising pages will
doubtless be profitably spent.
The safest and most convenient shape, for instance, into which the traveler can put his
money is that of letters of credit, or circular notes, and by turning to the advertisements he
will find there the card of Morton, Bliss & Co., 3 Broad St., New York. This eminent bank
ing-house issues " circular notes " and " circular letters of credit," payable in any Southern
city, and in fact available anywhere in the world.
None but first-class Hotels are invited to advertise in the Hand-Book, and the fact that
they appear there is a guarantee of their character.
The Hoffman House is a fine hotel, in the heart of the city. It is conducted on the
"European plan," and, in addition to its elegantly-furnished rooms, in suite and singly, has
an excellent restaurant, where meals may be obtained at all hours. It offers its guests all the
modern conveniences and improvements.
The Windsor is magnificent and commodious, and contains all the real comforts that can
be had in any other hotel in America. Its location is delightful, being surrounded by the
most fashionable residences in New York ; it is also near the famous Central Park, and within
three minutes' walk of the Grand Central Railway station. The rooms, five hundred in
number, with all the modern improvements, are especially adapted for travelers ; this hotel
also has elegant apartments in suite, for families, permanent or transient. The light, ventila-
tien, and sanitary qualities are perfect, and are not excelled by any hotel on either continent.
The Charleston Hotel is the leading house in Charleston, S. C, and is fully described in
the body of the work. It has just been newly furnished and embellished throughout, and
every thing that could add to the comfort, convenience, and pleasure of its guests has been
provided for.
The Htoeia Hotel, Fort Monroe, is a delightful resort, commanding a water-view not
surpassed on the Atlantic coast. The house contains every convenience and comfort ; un
usual facilities for fishing, boating, and bathing.
American House, Boston. — This is not only one of the oldest but one of the very best
houses in New England. Its whole character and management is the same as its furnishing —
solid, not veneered. All who visit Boston will find a pleasant home, with every convenience
and comfort, at the American.

The various lines of passenger-steamships running from New York afford a pleasant and
agreeable method of reaching the various places of destination. The following are the best
lines now in operation :
Pacific Mail Steamship Co.'s Line between New York and San Francisco. California
has become a regular " Winter Resort," and each year increases the number of visitors ; nor
can a more healthful or pleasurable trip be taken than in the fine steamships of this line. We
refer the reader to their advertisement, which will be found on page 9.
The Williams & Gcion Line, for Liverpool, via Queenstown, have earned a well-deserved
reputation for promptness, seaworthiness, and safety, and are very popular with our people.
These steamers are built of iron, in water-tight compartments, and are furnished with every
requisite for comfort and convenience. (See their advt., on page 13.)
The Great Southern Frkight or Passenger Route, via New York & Savannah Steam
ship Line, sends a steamer tri-weekly to Savannah, connecting there with all points South
and Southwest by the Central Railroad of Georgia, and to Florida by the Georgia &
Florida Inland Steamboat Co., or by the Atlantic & Gulf Railroad. The steamers of
this line will be found first class, an! every attention paid to passengers, and the car-service
fitted with all the improvements that make railroad-travel now a pleasure. George Yonge,
Agent. (See advt., page 10.)
For Nassau, N. P., Bahama Islands, Havana, Cuba, etc., the Regular Mail Steamship
Line runs during the winter between Savannah and Nassau, via St. Augustine, Fla., every ten
days, making close connections at Savannah with first-class steamers to and from New York.
This is a most delightful winter excursion. Murray, Ferris & Co., Agents. (See advt., p. 11.)
The Atlas Steamship Co. afford unsurpassed facilities for reaching the ports of Port-au-
Prince, Savanilla, Aspinwall, Hayti, Kingston, Jamaica, etc. These vessels — first-class British-
built iron steamships — carry the United States and British Colonial mails. Pim, Forwood
& Co , Agents. (See their advt., on page 12.)
The " New York Belting and Packing Co." represent one of the most curious of American
industries. In their ware-rooms may be seen the multitude of uses to which India-rubber is
put in modern manufacture.
The New York Life Insurance Co. will be found one of the safest and best in this coun
try. It has no superior, and but few, if any, equals. It has gone through the closest
examination and most searching scrutiny, but not a blemish or fault could be found in its
management. Indeed, it offers every advantage that age, success, approved methods, and
prudent management, can give.
Tarrant & Co.'s Seltzer Aperient is one of the best articles to be found in reference to
those troubles for which it is recommended. It is prescribed by the medical faculty, and its
use has become almost universal throughout the whole world.
The Wilson Patent Adjustable Chair is undoubtedly one of the best inventions of the
kind ever put before the public, especially the invalid portion of it. With its thirty different
changes it can be adapted to any desired position of the body.
T. Kingsford & Co.'s Oswego Starch (both laundry and edible). This article is now
found in almost every household in our land, and we believe no purer or better can be found
than " Kingsford's Oswego Starch." Their success has been wonderful : the manufacture
commenced in 1843, on a very limited scale, but has gradually increased, till now the buildings
occupied in its manufacture cover about twenty acres, and employ hundreds of hands.
Fire-Bricks, Blocks, and Tiles, and all other materials for Rolling-Mills, Gas-Works, etc.,
can be procured from Mr. Henry Maurer, who has had a long, practical experience in his
business, and whose character is the best voucher for his work. (See his adv., on page 15.)

OCEAN-VOYAGES

HEALTH AND PLEASURE.

Pacific Mail Steamship Co.'s Line,

NEW YORK AND SAN FRANCISCO.

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA is rapidly growing in popularity as the Winter
Resort of America. Its mild, dry climate has proved highly beneficial to many
invalids, and the great influx of these has led to the establishment of numerous
hotels and sanitariums where every luxury is provided, and arrangements made
for the agreeable sojourn of all classes of guests. These resorts are connected by
railroads, and the visitor can, therefore, journey among them at will, finding enjoy
ment and health in the charming scenery spread over two hundred miles of the
garden-like slope lying between the Coast Range and the Pacific Ocean.
This desirable region for a winter residence can be reached, after a delightful
ocean-voyage of twenty four days, by the splendid iron steamships of the Pacific
Mail Company, sailing from New York the middle and end of each month. Thirty
hours after leaving New York these steamers carry the voyager beyond the icy
blasts of the North, and from Cape Hatteras to Aspinwall the journey is through
the balmy air of the West Indies. At the last-named port the passengers disem
bark in the heart of the tropics. Three hours' ride by rail carries them across the
Isthmus; and about ten hours more transfers them to awaiting steamer in the
historic Bay of Panama. The monotony of the trip is thus broken, and, on a
clean, well-ventilated ship, freshly provisioned with a profusion of tropical fruits,
the journey is continued over the Pacific Ocean, often in sight of bold and beautiful
shores, and sometimes pausing at quaint old Spanish cities, until the " Golden Gate "
is entered, and the end of the voyage is reached in San Francisco.
Circulars, giving all particulars of this voyage, will be mailed free on applica
tion to the
PACIFIC MAIL STEAMSHIP COMPANY,
6 Bowling Green, New York.

10

For Florida, and all Points South and Southwest.
THE GREAT SOUTHERN

ATI^

New York and Savannah Steamship Line.

One of the following first-class Steamships will sail from New York as follows, punctually,
at 3 o'clock p. m. :
EVERY TUESDAY, THURSDAY, and SATURDAY,
Steamship H. LIVINGSTON, Steamship BAN SALVADOR,
" GENERAL BARNES, " SAN JACINTO,
And the new and elegant Steamships CITY OF MACON and CITY OF SAVANNAH,
3,250 tons burden each, will take their place on the Line as Saturday's Boats,
on 27th October and 17th November.
The above Steamships will connect at Savannah with
CENTRAL RAILROAD OF GEORGIA,
Two Trains daily for all points in Middle, North and Southwest Georgia, Alabama, Missis
sippi, Tennessee, and Louisiana, and with the
ATLANTIC & GULF RAILROAD,
To all points in Florida, Southern and Middle Georgia, and with Steamers in the Chattahoo
chee River. Two Trains daily between Savannah and Jacksonville, Fla. Pullman's
Palace Sleeping-Cars and Parlor Coaches attached to both trains. Also with the
Georgia & Florida Inlaid Steamboat Co.'s Steamers city of Bridgeton and David Clark.
These boats will make close connection with the New York and Savannah Steamships.
Their route will be through the Inland Passage formed by the Sea Islands and Coast Rivers
between Savannah and the St. John's River.
These fine Steamers, on this favorite line of travel to the South, are newly and hand
somely fitted up for the comfort and convenience of passengers.
Families en route for Florida, Georgia, Alabama, and even as far as New Orleans, will find
the Savannah route the most enjoyable for comfort, as well as saving in expense.
The Florida Steamers leave Savannah three days in the week, for all points od the Coast.
Through Bills of Lading given for Freights to all points in Florida, Georgia, Alabama,
and Tennessee. Rates and Classifications will be furnished by the undersigned.
Shippers may feel assured of no delay to their goods in being forwarded.
Goods forwarded through New York and Savannah FREE OF COMMISSION.
Freight received daily at the Covered Pier 43, North River, and Jfler 16, East
Miver. Bills of Lading furnished and signed on the pier.
For Freight or Passage by Ships sailing on Thursdays, from Pier 16, East River, apply to
MURRAY, FiiRRJS & CO., Agents, 62 South St.
For Freight or Passage by Ships sailing from Pier 43, North River, on Tuesdays and Sat
urdays, apply to
GEORGE YONGE, Agent, 409 Broadway,
And at the Office, od Pier 43, N. E.
C D. OWENS, Gen. Frt. & Pass. Agt. A, & G. R. R., 315 Broadway,
New York, October 1, 1877.
State-Rooms will be secured on application as above.

11

FOR NASSAU, N. P., BAHAMA ISLANDS.
HAVANA, CUBA,
Via St. Augustine, Fla.

GREAT WINTER EXCURSION ROUTE.

FIRST-CLASS MAIL PASSENGER STEAMSHIPS WILL BE DISPATCHED FEOM
SAVANNAH, G.I., EVERY TEN DAYS FOR THE ABOVE PORTS,
THUS FORMING THE MOST DELIGHTFUL " WINTER EXCURSION " EVER
OFFERED IN AMERICAN WATERS:
COMBINING
FLORIDA, NASSAU, and HAVANA, with Mr Varied Pnases of Tropical Life.

NASSAU has long been most favorably known as a place of winter resort, not only for
invalids, who rarely fail to improve under a climate where the temperature never falls be
low 64° Fahrenheit, nor rises above 82°, but also to tourists, to whom the varied scenery
of New Providence and the surrounding islands is a source of constant enjoyment.
The Royal Victoria Hotel, at Nassau, is beautifully situated and well kept. It is favor
ably known the world over by tourists and travelers. Apply to
MURRAY, FERRIS & CO.,
No. 62 South. Street, New York.

APPLETONS' GUIDE-BOOKS.

APPLBTONS' ILLUSTRATED HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. With Through-
Routes of Travel, and Railway Maps. 1 vol. Paper cover, price, 50 cents; cloth,
75 cents.
APPLETONS' ILLUSTRATED HAND-BOOK OF SUMMER RESORTS. Uniform with
"Hand-Book of Cities." With Maps. 1vol. Paper, 50 cents.
APPLETONS' ILLUSTRATED HAND-BOOK OF WINTER RESORTS. Uniform with
"Hand-Book of Summer Resorts." Paper cover, 50 cents.
NEW YORK ILLUSTRATED. Containing numerous Views of Street-scenes, Public
Buildings, Parks, Suburbs, etc., of the Empire City. The most fully-illustrated and
elegant brochure of the city ever published ; contains Maps, and a Stranger's Guide to
Public Places ; valuable as a guide, and choice as a memorial of the city. Printed on
toned paper, 8vo. Price, paper cover, 50 cents ; cloth, $1.00.
THE HUDSON RIVER. A Guide for Tourists. With 60 Illustrations by J. D. Woodward.
8vo. Paper cover. Price, 50 cents. Uniform in size with "New York Illustrated."
Mr. Woodward's drawings have been remarkably successful, and make the volume one
of the handsomest guide-books ever issued.
APPLETONS' EUROPEAN GUIDE, niustrated. Price, $6.00.
HAND-BOOKS r NORTHERN AND EASTERN TOUR. l2mo. Cloth. Price, $2.
OF ? WESTERN TOUR. lSmo. Cloth. Price, $2.00.
AMERICAN TRAVEL. ( SOUTHERN TOUR. i2mo. Cloth. Price, $2.00.
D. APPLETON & CO., Publishers, 549 & 551 Broadway, N. Y.
The above are peculiarly adapted to advertisements of Hotels, routes of travel, and
general business, and are worthy of the consideration of all interested in such.
For full information in reference to advertisements,
Address HENRY W. QTJIN,
Advertising Department.

12

ATLAS STEAMSHIP COMPANY,
CARRYING THE
UNITED STATES AND BRITISH COLONIAL MAILS.
First clais British-built Iron Steamships.
SAILING TWICE A MONTH TO
PORT AU PRINCE, SA VANILLA, and ASPINWALL,
AND CALLING 0XC3 A MONTH AT
Cane Hayti, Gonaives, & St. Marc in Hayti; and Santa Martlia & Cartlagena in ColoniDia.
SAILING ONCE EVERT THREE WEEKS FOR
KINGSTON (Jamaica), AUX CAYES and JACMEL (Hayti).
FARES TO KINGSTON, SINGLE, $50 Gold ; RETURN, $90, Gold.
HAYTI, $70 and $90, Gold.
COLOMBIAN PORTS, SINGLE, $90, Go!d ; RETURN, $150, Gold.

ANDES  1,800tons.
ETNA  1,400 "
AIL.SA (new)  2,200 "
C. L. BARTLETT & CO.,
16 Broad Street, Boston.

At- PS  1,800 tons.
ATLAS  1,400 "
CLARIBEL  1,200 "
PIM, FORWOOD & CO., Agents,
56 Walt Street, New York.

JOSEPH GILLOTT'S
CELEBRATED
STEEL PENS.
SOLD BY ALL DEALERS THROUGHOUT THE "WORLD.
Every Packet bears
the fac simile
Signature,

l:j

FOR LIVERPOOL,
Via QUEENSTOWN,
CARRYING THE UNITED STATES MAILS,

mBk.&'p^-j'L. i~jjy»,.

- mm i

From Pier 53, North River, New York,
EVERY TUESDAY.

WYOMING

3,716 Tons.

IDAHO

3,132 Tons

NEVADA -

3,125 "

MONTANA

4,320 "

"WISCONSIN -

3,720 "

ARIZONA

4,500 "

These Steamers are built of Iron, in water-tight compartments, and are
furnished with every requisite to make the passage across the Atlantic both safe
and agreeable. The State-rooms are all on Deck, thus insuring those
greatest of all luxuries at sea, perfect ventilation and light.

RATES FOR PASSENGERS REDUCED.
STEERAGE - - $26 00 I CABIN - $65 00 to $80 00
INTERMEDIATE 40 00 [ (according to State-room).
OFFICES, No. 29 BROADWAY, NEW YORK.
WILLIAMS & CUION.

14

V

A N I T Y
FA I R,

For Meerschaum and Cigarettes.
tap- DOES NOT BITE THE TONGUE. _^|

Our Cigarettes are as fine as can be produced.
Only the best French Cigarette paper is used, which is free from mineral
and other injurious substances.
L' AMERIQTJJE— A delicious Cigarette, of Perique and Vanity
Fair. Most conveniently and elegantly gotten up. Unlike all others. Sam
ples, 15 cents. Highest Award, Vienna, 1873, and Centennial, 1876.
Our Peerless and Plain Pine-Cut Chewing are unsurpassed — the
only brands receiving the Vienna Award. Always uniform and
reliable. WM. S. KIMBALL & CO.,
(5 PRIZE MEDALS.) Peerless Tobacco Works, Rochester, N. Y.

THE ART JOURNAL.
AN
INTERNATIONAL GALLERY OF ENGRAVINGS,
By Distinguished Artists of Europe and America.
WITH ILLUSTRATED PAPERS IN THE VARIOUS BRANCHES OF ART.

The Art Journal contains the Steel Plates and Illustrations of the London Art Jour
nal (the exclusive right of which, for Canada and the United States, has been purchased by
the publishers), with extensive additions relating to American Art and American topics.
It is speciallv devoted to the world of Art— Painting, Scalpture, Architecture, Decoration,
Engraving, Etching, Enameling, and Designing in all its branches— having in view the
double purpose of supplying a complete illustrated record of progress in the Arts, and of
affording a means- for the cultivation of Art-taste among the people.
Each number contains three steel plates, with many articles on Art-subjects richly and
copiously illustrated with wood engravings. In many instances a single steel plate is worth
much more than the entire price of the number. The subjects in some cases are derived
from the old masters, but more commonly from the paintings of the modern school, includ
ing views of subjects in Sculpture.
Nothing- is left undone to sustain the reputation of this publication as the most valuable
and beautiful of Art periodicals in the world.
Printing, paper, and general get-up, are of the best character, and such as to win the com
mendation of all critics.
Published Monthly. Sold only by Subscription.
PRICE, 75 CENTS PER NUMBER, PAYABLE ON DELIVERY BY THE CARRIER,
D. APPLETON & CO., Publishers, 549 & 551 Broadway, N. Y.
Agencies: 22 Hawley St., Boston; 922 Chestnut St., Philadelphia ; 22 Post-Office Ave.,
Baltimore; 53 Ninth St., Pittsburg ; 100 State St., Albany : 42 State St., Rochester; 103 State
St., Chicago; 51 W. 4th St., Cincinnati ; 305 Locust St., St. Louis; 20 St. Charles St., New
Orleaus ; 230 Sutter St., San Francisco.

15

HENRY MAURER,

proprietor of the

EXCELSIOR FIRE-BRICK at CLAY RETORT WORKS,
WORKS: PERTH AMBOY, X. J.,
Office and Depot, 418, 420, and 422 E. 23d St., bet. First Ave. and Ave. A, N. Y.,
MANUFACTURER Or
FIRE-BRICK, BLOCKS, AND TILES,
For Rollbig-Mills, Gas- Works, Blast-Fur-
nares, Foundries, Lime-Kilns, Glass-
Works Grate-Fiztvrei, etc.

Blocks and Tiles, of aDy size or shape, made to
Order, at the shortest notice, and
of superior quality.
SOLE MANUFACTURER OF
HOLLOW BRICK,
FOE FIRE-PROOF BUILDINGS.
Superior Fire-Clay by the Ton or Cargo.
_ My factory (formerlv owned by Joseph Forbes, Esq.) is located at Perth Amboy, N. J.,
within a few hundred feet of tide-water, affording unequaled facilities for shipping, and is in
the immediate vicinity of the finest clay-beds in the country. ^~ Send for FHce-List.

READING POSITION.

Tie Wilson Patent Adjustable Clair,
WITH THIRTY CHANGES OF POSITIONS.
Parlor, Library, Invalid Chair, Child's Crib, Bed or Lounge, com
bining beauty, lightness, strength, simplicity, and comfort. Every
thing- to an exact science. Orders by mail promptly attended to.
Goods shipped to any address, C. O. D Send for Illustrated Cir
cular; quote Appletons' Winter Resorts. Address
The Wilson Adjustable Chair Manufacturing Co*,
66i Broadway, New York,

THE POPULAR SCIENCE I0NTHLY
SUPPLEMENT,

containing the

Very Best Articles puulisned in the Foreim Scientific Journals and Reviews.
Price, 25 cents ; or, $3.00 per annum.
D. APPLETON & CO., Pnblisbers, 549 & 551 Broadway, N. T.

16

The Handsomest Illustrated Work ever produced
in this country.

Picturesque America
OR,
THE LAND WE LIVE IN.

EDITED BY
WILLIAM CULLEN BKYANT.

A Pictorial Delineation of the Mountains, Rivers, Lakes, Forests,
Water-falls, Shores, Canyons, Valleys, Cities, and other
Picturesque Features of our Country.

The publishers claim that no publication of the kind has ever been attempted in
the country on a scale so large, with design so liberal, and with results so really
magnificent. They offer it to the American public as not only the greatest and
fullest exposition of our country that has yet been made, but as a monument of na
tive art worthy the genius and reputation of our people.
The engravings consist of steel and wood. The steel plates are printed on heavy,
toned plate-paper ; the wood illustrations are of the finest character, and abundant
ly interspersed through the text, which are printed on heavy, extra-calendered,
toned paper.
CONDITIONS OF PUBLICATION.
This work is published in serai-monthly parts, at Fifty cents each, payable on
delivery. Each part contains one highly-finished engraving on steel, and a large number of
finely-executed woodcuts.
The work is complete in Forty-eight parts ; the size imperial quarto.
Subscriptions received only for the entire work.
/ D. APPLETON & CO., Publishers,
549 & 551 Broadway, New York.

17

The most complete and elegantly Illustrated Work on
Europe ever produced.

PICTURESQUE EUEOPE:
A DELINEATION BY PEN AND PENCIL OF
The Mountains, Rivers, Lakes, Shores, Forests, and other Natural
Features, and the Anoient Ruins, Cathedrals, Castles, Palaces,
Old Structures, and other Picturesque and
Historical Places of
GREAT BRITAIN AND THE CONTINENT.

Edited by BAYARD TAYLOR.

This truly superb work, which has now been for several yearp in active preparation,
will consist of a complete description and elaborate pictorial illustration of the greater part
of the Earopean Continent. It will portray the great mountain-ranges, the superb lakes, the
beautiful valleys, the grand forests, the cascades, the great rivers, with their fascinating
historical associations, and with these the temples and ruins of ancient Greece and Rome,
the grand Gothic cathedrals, the quaint old churches, the splendid palaces, the grim old
castles, the strange towns, and other places and objects of note, it being the purpose of the
publishers to illustrate the varied picturesque and historic scenes in that storied land with
a fullness and artistic effect beyond anything hitherto attempted.
THE ENGRAVINGS OF THIS WORK ARE ALL NiSW, having been executed from
sketches by American and English artists, who for two years past have been traveling over
every part of Europe, in order to secure accurate and the latest views of picturesque places.
No labor and no cost have been spared to render the illustrations in every particular not
only entirely trustworthy but valuable for their artistic excellence. To those who have
visited Europe it will be a lasting pleasure, as a souvenir of the places they have seen ; to
others it will, In its minute and thorough delineation by artist and writer, afford an idea of
the great historic ground of the Old World, scarcely less vivid than that of actual personal
observation. The engravingB will consist of steel and wood. The steel plates will be printed on heavy,
toned, plate-paper; the wood illustrations will be of the finest character, and abundantly in
terspersed through the text, which will be printed on heavy, extra-calendered, toned paper.
In all particulars of manufacture, care will he taken to secure a truly elegant and sumptuous
work. PiCTUBESQtra Europe is uniform with and is designed to form a companion work to
PICTURESQUE AMERICA.

CONDITIONS OF PUBLICATION.
This work will be published by subscription, In parts, at Fifty Cents each, payable on
delivery ; the carrier not being allowed to receive money in advance, or to give credit.
Each part will contain one highly-finished engraving on steel, and a large number of
finely-executed woodcuts.
The work will probably be completed In Sixty Parts; it will positively not exceed Sixty-
six Parts; the size imperial quarto. It will be printed on heavy, toned, highly-calendered
paper, made expressly for this work, in the best manner known to the art
Subscriptions received only for the entire work.
D. APPLETON & 00,, Publishers, 549 & 551 Broadway, N. T.

18

AFFLETOWS*
American Cyclopedia.
NEW REVISED EDITION

Entirely rewritten by the ablest writers on every subject. Printed from
new type, and illustrated with Several Thousand Engravings and Maps.

The work originally published under the title of The New American Cyclopedia
was completed in 1863, since which time the wide circulation which it has attained
in all parts of the United States, and the signal developments which have taken
place in every branch of science, literature, and art, have induced the editors and
publishers to submit it to an exact and thorough revision, and to issue a new edition
entitled The American Cyclopedia.
In preparing the present edition for the press, it has accordingly been the aim
of the editors to bring down the information to the latest possible dates, and to fur
nish an accurate account of the most recent discoveries in science, of every fresh
production in literature, and of the newest inventions in the practical arts, as well
as to give a succinct and original record of the progress of political and historical
events. The illustrations, which are introduced for the first time in the present edition,
have been added not for the sake of pictorial effect, but to give greater lucidity and
force to the explanations in the text. They embrace all branches of science and of
natural history, and depict the most famous and remarkable features of scenery,
architecture, and art, as well as the various processes of mechanics and manufact
ures. Although intended for instruction rather than embellishment, no pains have
been spared to insure their artistic excellence ; the cost of their execution is enor
mous, and it is believed they will find a welcome reception as an admirable feature
of the Cyclopedia, and worthy of its high character.
This work is sold to Subscribers only, payable on delivery of each volume. It
is now completed in sixteen large octavo volumes, each containing about eight hun
dred pages, fully illustrated with several thousand Wood Engravings, and with
numerous colored Lithographic Maps.
PRICE AND STYLE OF BINDING.

In Extra Cloth, - - - per vol., $5 00
Id Library Leather, - - 6 00
Id Half Turkey Morocco, - " 7 00

In Half Russia, extra gilt, - per vol., $8 00
In Full Morocco, antique, gilt edges, " 10 00
In Full Russia, - 10 00

*** Specimen pages of The American Cyclopedia, showing type, illustrations,
etc., will be sent gratis, on application.
D. APPLETON k CO., Publishers, 549 & 551 Broadway, New York.

19

»M»»

SELTZER

THE GREAT
SALINE
APERIENT.

^^k

SELTZER

TARRANT'S

jjtattttyttt 1§t\tut

For THIRTY TEARS has received the favorable recom
mendation of the Public, and been
Used and Prescribed by the First Physicians in the Land

BEST REMEDY KNOWN
toe
Sick Headache, Nervous Headache, Dyspepsia, Soar Stomach, Billons Headache,
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the Liver, Gravel, Rheumatic Affections, Piles, Heartburn, Sea-
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For Travelers by Sea and Land, for Females in Delicate Health, for Persons
of Sedentary Habits, for Physicians in charge of Hospitals, for Soldiers,
for Sailors, for Masters of Vessels, especially all going to Hot
Climates, the SELTZER APERIENT
' IS AN INVALUABLE COMPANION.
SUFFERERS FROM LATE SUPPERS, SUFFERERS FROM ABUSE OF LIQUORS, SUFFERERS
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It Is in the form of a Powder, carefully put up in bottles, to keep In any climate, and
merely requires water poured upon it to produce a delightful effervescent beverage.

S5*A»

SELTZER

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MANUFACTURED ONLY BY
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Cor. Warren, New York,
And For Sale by
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PURE AND SILVER GLOSS STARCH
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IinriMVOl&ll'S fiwiw
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Is a most delicate and nutritious article of food. Ask for KINGSFORD'S, and to
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DIVIDENDS ANNUALLY.
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lacomej joearly 8,000,000 Dollr.j Yearly.
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OKIGIHATED HOK-FORFBITtTRE POLICIES

.ADVANTAGES OFFERED ARE. tW3. .2PASSFJT).

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