i\^ os; F(I0 DD ]ANEIT "I give thefe Books far the founding of a College in tMs Colony" ¦ ILUBIKAISy - Gift of Dr. Hiram Bingham ofthe Class of 1898 1907 The Rio News. Hand Book OF Rro de Janeiro (WITH MAP) by the editors of The Rio News. Rio de Janeiro: A. J. Lamoureux & Co., Printers. 1887. -Br3Z.il "R45 8811=? PREFACE. This small Hand Book for the city and Vicinity of Rio de Janeiro has been Written to meet an old and oft repeated demand on the part of Knglish- speaking travellers for some kind of a guide to the Various places of interest in this most picturesque of South American cities. As the first effort to giVe a concise description of the city, specially arranged for the convenience of Visitors, its authors haVe necessarily been compelled to consult a great Va riety of Works and to obtain information from a great Variety of sources. Some of this may proVe defective, and experience may shoW that the guide does not fully meet What travellers most require. Should the book meet the encouragement anticipat ed, corrected and enlarged editions Will be issued hereafter at frequent intervals. CONTENTS. The Bay of Rio de Janeiro p. I Historical Sketch of the City 21 The City and its Institutions 47 Schools, Churches and Charities 87 Theatres, Amusements and Holidays 131 In and About the City 143 Excursions (see Index) 150 Imperial Family 198 Exchange Table 199 Trade of the Port 200 Index 205 Advertisements 209 PLAN ©if the CITY lUh PRvbu, 8 C •? THE BAY OF RIO DE JANEIRO. ^o city of Rio de Janeiro possesses one of t^the largest, safest and most beautiful harbors in the world, and the approach to it is in every Approach way worthy of its reputation. The ocean to the Bay entrance is from a south-easterly direction with the islands of Pai and Mai on the right, and Ilha Raza (with its lighthouse) and other semi-barren islands on the left. The coast is mountainous and picturesque in the extreme. On the right is a perfect sea of hills, with here an3 there a granite peak, which stretches back to the distant ranges of the Serra do Mar, while on the left is a group of peaks that never fails to excite the traveller's warmest admiration. The configura tion of this mass of mountains, from the flat-topped Gav6a on the west to the Sugar- Loaf at the harbor entrance, gives a rough outline of a reclining human figure, sometimes called the "Sleeping Giant. " The Gave"a, with the Tijuca peaks in the background, forms the face of this granite giant, which a half century ago was popularly called "Lord Hood's nose." The most famous of these Sugar peaks is the Sugar-Loaf (Pao de Assucar), Loaf which rises abruptly from the sea at the entrance to a height of 12 12 feet (Burmeister). This peak is the highest and extreme point of a range of granite hills extending along the coast for a short distance and which is separated from the larger range lying back of the city by the valley, or gap, in which the suburb of Botafogo is built. A narrow gap through this range jttst behind the Sugar Loaf is known as Praia Ver- melha, and is celebrated as the location of the first Portuguese settlement on this bay in 1565. It is strongly fortified and is the site of the imperial military academy. The broad beach running parallel with this short range of hills is known as the Praia da Copacabana, at the lower end of which is a picturesque little church on a rocky point overlooking the sea. This beach has been laid out for a seaside resort, but has thus far failed — 3 — to attract residents. The larger range back of the city is known as the Serra da Carioca, and com prises the widely-known peaks of Corcovado, Tijuca and Gavga. The entrance to the bay of Rio de Janeiro is The about one mile in width, and is so straight Entrance an(j free from obstructions that no pilots are required. Becalmed sailing vessels sometimes run the risk of being carried on the rocks by the cur rent at the ebb of the tide, but accidents rarely occur. On the right of the entrance and rising from the water's edge is the most important and formidable fortress of Brazil — the Fortaleza de Santa Cruz. This stronghold is built at the foot Santa of the larger of two rocky peaks occupying Cruz a peninsula formed by the Bay of Jurujuba on the inside and the incurving beach on the outside called the Praia de Fdra. This out side beach is defended by a strong water battery, while the summit of the peak overlooking Santa Cruz — called the Pico — is crowned by a small but impregnable fortification called the Forte do Pico. The only approach to this fort is through the Santa Cruz fortress below, while that in turn is assailable only by water. These natural fea tures render the Fortaleza de Santa Cruz a — 4 — Gibraltar in strength and inaccessibility. The first fortification at this point was completed in 1696, but has been greatly enlarged and strength ened since. It is capable of holding a large gar rison and is well armed with modern cannon of the most approved type. It is also used as a military and State prison. On the left of the entrance, a rocky peninsula juts out from the base of the Sugar Loaf, which Fort is occupied at the low sandy isthmus by bar- st. John racks and on the higher ground by the Fortaleza de S. Joao. Some of the batteries connected with this fortification are cut in the living rock, and are even stronger than those of Santa Cruz. Nearly midway in the channel and within the entrance lies the Fortaleza da Lage, Lage built upon a partially submerged rock, which is celebrated as the site of the first attempted settlement in the bay of Rio de Janeiro. The fortification was constructed in 1646, but pos sesses no great strength, although its position and slight elevation above the sea level give it great advantages over the larger and more powerful fortress of Santa Cruz. It was for a long time used for the incarceration of prisoners of state. The traveller is now fairly within the justly celebrated Bay of Rio de Janeiro — a miniature The summer sea sleeping within the embrace of Bav granite mountain chains, upon whose bosom rest a hundred fairy isles, and around whose shores dimple a hundred tiny bays. A fairer scene eye never beheld. Near at hand are the bare grey peaks which cluster about the entrance as though to beat back the ocean storms, while in the distance are the evergreen slopes and ragged profile of the far-famed Organ Mountains. Through a narrow opening on the left is seen the almost land-locked bay of Botafogo, around whose circling shore is built Rio's most aristo- Generai view cratic suburb, while on the right the bay of the city sweeps back behind the hills to form the almost similarly land-locked bay of Jurujuba, upon whose beach stands a quiet little fishing village as primitive and drowsy as though the metropolis of Brazil were hundreds of miles away. The whole shore line on the left is occupied by The hills and suburbs of the city until it sweeps sharply shore line 0U|; [nto the bay, and there just behind Castello and S. Antonio hills lies the city proper. In places the houses creep ambitiously up the mountain sides, while in others they sweep up and over the hills with walls and terraces and sharply curving streets. At the entrance to Botafogo Bay is the Morro da Viuva crowned with a reservoir and buttressed with a battery, Aquarius over-topping Mars. Further on rises the pic-' Gioria turesque Morro da Gloria, covered with HiM houses and shrubbery and distinguished by one of the prettiest and most conspicuous churches in the city. Behind the Gloria, to the left, with its white granite quarries turned to the sea, and on whose sides the houses seem to hang, Nova is the Morro de Nova Cintra, beyond and cintra behind which still further to the left lies the picturesque suburb of Larangeiras, the favorite residence of foreigners. Further to the right of Nova Cintra and covered with buildings is a long spur of the mountain which is called the Morro Santa de Santa Thereza, one of the city's favorite Thereza suburbs. Beyond the Gloria, where the shore line curves sharply to the eastward can be seen the terrace of the Passeio Publico with its dark background of green foliage, then the gap between the S. Antonio and Castello hills between which the buildings seem to pour out from the crowded city beyond, and then hugging the rugged side of the Morro do Castello the broad Castle Hill front of the Misericordia Hospital. At the Misericordia extreme point of the land, where the shore line curves again to the westward, called the Ponta do Calabouco, is the arsenal of war. The earliest settlement of the city proper was at this point. The signal station for entering vessels is on Castle Hill, just back of this point. At a considerable distance within the bay and almost directly in front of the entrance lies the Fort island and fort of Viiiegagnon, the site of Viiiegagnon tiie nrst settlement of Rio de Janeiro, which occurred in 1555. The fort is a quad rilateral structure of considerable strength, pro tected by water batteries, and well armed with guns of modern types. All vessels entering port are required to anchor and await the visits ot the health and customs officers before passing this fort. The man-of-war anchorage is just beyond. ilha das Further on and lying close up to the city Cobras front is the Ilha das Cobras, a large rocky island covered with buildings and batteries, and occupied with naval storehouses on the western side. On the inland side are the imperial graving docks, cut in the living rock. In a south-easterly direction from the Ilha das Cobras and lying near the channel followed by steamers, is a small Rat island called the Ilha dos Ratos, — now also island known as "Ilha Fiscal" — on which the government is constructing a fine stone build ing, facing the harbor entrance, for the use of the port authorities. The position is an ex ceptionally favorable one for the purpose, and the building now under construction there promises to be one of the most conspicuous and creditable public buildings in the imperial capital. Turning to the right, or to the eastward; the traveller will have before him a shore line, less interesting perhaps, but scarcely less picturesque than that on the opposite side of the bay. As the entering steamer passes the rocky peninsula on which Santa Cruz is built, the half hidden bay Juruiuba °^ Jurujuba — the old Three-Fathom Bay — Bay comes into view. Two or three small fishing villages may be seen on its shores which, with the white walls of the Jurujuba Hospital (to which yellow fever patients from the shipping are sent) and a few detached houses on prominent points, are all the signs of civilization that can be seen. The country back of this bay is hilly and covered with dense vegetation. Just outside of the bay of Jurujuba is the famous Icarahy beach, celebrated alike for its bathing and its beauty. The view ofthe opposite mountains and the city of Rio de Janeiro, particularly from a picturesque point icarahy at the upper end of the beach, called Inga, is one of the best that can be obtained, comprising at a glance the lower bay and city front, all the famous peaks grouped closely together, and the harbor entrance with its fortified barriers through which can be seen the islands and sea in the hazy distance. It is a view of Rio de Janeiro which no traveller should miss. The whole shore line from Icarahy to a prominent point opposite and above the Ilha das Cobras, where the bay sud denly widens, is occupied by the city and Nictheroy suburbs of Nictheroy, the capital of the province of Rio de Janeiro. After Icarahy, the first suburb is that of S. Domingos, and then the business centre of the city, called Praia Grande. These two parts of the city are frequently spoken of as distinct towns, as was formerly the case, but they now form one municipality. The first settle ment on this shore was made about the middle of the 17th century, but it consisted of nothing more than a few huts on the beach and a chapel up to the beginning of the present century. It was created a village under the title of "Villa Real da Praia Grande" in 1819, and in 1835 it was ^-10 — made the capital of the province and created a city under the name of Nictheroy, or NyterSi — one of the Indian names of the bay. Owing to its irregular shore line and the large number of hills within and encompassing it, the city is very much scattered. It is more like a succession of country villages than a capital city, with a population of something over 15,000. Immediately above Ingd point, which is readily distinguished by some very picturesque, detached rocks in the bay, is the pretty Itapuca beach, facing which are some of the finest residences in S. Domingos. Most conspicuous, however, is the small rocky Boa island of B6a Viagem, on which stands the Viagem church of Nossa Senhora da Boa Viagem (Our Lady of the Gocd Voyage), the patron saint of those who "go down to the sea in ships." It lies just in front of a low, projecting hill, of which it once formed a part, and is connected with the mainland by a wooden foot-bridge. An old fortification is to be seen on the sides facing the entrance and lower anchorage, of whose foundation, like that of the church above, no record exists , but which is known to have been anterior to 1710. The batteries are not now occupied and are falling into ruin. The — II — church is a very old one, but the "brotherhood" to which it belonged becoming extinct many years ago it has fallen into a state of great neglect. The native sailors, however, still address their devotions to its patroness, and burn candles at the shrine of Our Lady for deliverance from the dangers of the sea. The next point on the shore Point line is- that of Ponta da Gravat£, or Gra- Gravata goata, on which stands a partially dismantled fortification of the same name. This is the most prominent point on the eastern shore line as seen from the entrance, and its batteries, in connection with those of B6a Viagem, could easily be made very formidable. Above this point is the semi circular bay of Praia Grande, on which lies the oldest and most thickly settled part of the city of Nictheroy, the upper part of which still passes under its old name of Praia Grande. The next point is Armaoao j.]^ 0f tne Morro da Armacao, nearly sur rounded by water, beyond which the bay sweeps back to the eastward. For nearly two centuries this point was the site of the whale fisheries of this part of the coast, the village and storehouses lying at the base of the hill. This whale-fishing settlement was founded in 1636, but lost its importance to a great extent in J 801 when exclusive privileges — 12 — in this industry were abolished. On the Opposite side of the hill is located the ship-building estab lishment of Ponta d'Areia, once of considerable importance. Just above the Ilha das Cobras and opposite Upper the Morro da Armacao is the upper anchor- Anchorage age for sailing vessels and steamers, within which is room enough for the merchant navies of the world. The steamers usually lie in the upper part of this anchorage, just above a small island known as the Ilha das Enchadas. At this point the bay widens rapidly on both sides. On the Rio Rio shore line, the custom house occupies shore line the whole front facing the Ilha das Cobras, at the upper end of which is the principal land- Landing mS stage lor steamer passengers, known as stages the Caes dos Mineiros. The Caes Pharoux and Caes das Marinhas are below the custom house, beside the ferry landings, and are more convenient starting points for strangers because of their proximity to the principal streets and tram way lines, but they are farther away from the steamer anchorages. The city market is near the last-named landing. Just above the custom house is situated the marine arsenal, and at the point further on, at the foot of the Morro de S. Bento, — 13 — are its machine shops and ship-yard. On the hill above is the monastery of S. Bento, one of the oldest and richest monastic institutions in Brazil. The district lying immediately beyond this hill and extending along a slightly incurving beach, is The known as the "Sadde," once noted for its Saude healthfulness and beauty, but now for every thing the reverse. Its water front is occupied with bonded warehouses (trapiches) and the fine wharves and storehouses of the Docas D. Pedro II company. At the upper extremity of this district is a small detached hill, called the Morro da Saiide, at the foot of which is the large graving dock constructed by Messrs. Finnie, Kemp & Co. This part of the city was the landing place and slave market during the days of the African slave trade, the water front now occupied by the D. Pedro II- wharves being known as the Praia do Valongo. Beyond the Morro da Saude is a smaller district surrounding a deeper indentation of the shore and encompassed with hills which is called the The "Gamb6a." The water front here is also Gamboa occupied by bonded warehouses, among which is the maritime station of the D. Pedro II railway, used for the receipt and storage of coffee. On the hillside facing this bay is the British — 14 — burial ground, while on a small detached hill at its upper extremity — the Morro da Gamboa — is located one of the hospitals of the Misericordia brotherhood, which is devoted principally to the treatment of infectious diseases. The range of hills extending along this shore is broken in several places, through which access is had to the city behind. These hills, beginning with the S. Bento, are called Conceicao, Livramento, Pro- videncia, Pinto and S. Diogo. Beyond the Gamboa is a large shallow bay, enclosing three or four small islands, and terminating at a long sandy tongue of land called the Ponta do Caju. Caiu This point is covered with a fine grove of mango trees and is occupied by one of the smaller residences belonging to the Crown, once a favorite ¦resort of D. Joao VI. This point is noted for its coolness and its fine views of the upper bay. The principal cemeteries of the city face the beach at the upper part of the bay. At this point terminates the city proper, though its jurisdiction extends for a long distance up the bay. The shore line is for the most part low, muddy and very irregular, and trends to the westward until the widest part of the bay is reached about six miles above the Ponta do Cajii. — 15 — On the Nictheroy side the shore line funs sharply to the eastward beyond the Morro da Armacao, forming one of the most picturesque bays on either shore. Back of the Armacao and Eastern extending for some distance along its shore shore ]jne are the scattered suburbs of Nictheroy, and back of these the evergreen hills. The shores are sinuous and rocky, the water everywhere clear and deep, and the bay itself crowded with islands. It is full of tortuous channels and tiny bays, of rocky bluffs and sandy beaches, of distant ¦ glimpses of the city, bay and mountains, and of secluded retreats into which no sight nor sound of the metropolis ever enters. Some of these islands are used for coal depots, and on one of them — Ilha do Mocangue" — is a large private grav ing dock. The Ilha das Flores immigrants' station is also in this locality. Behind these islands on the mainland is Sant'Anna, the terminal station of the Cantagallo railway. The general trend of the shore line above this bay is to the east ward, with islands scattered along its whole extent. The general outline of the Bay of Rio de Janeiro is that of an irregular obtuse-angled triangle, the eastern shore line forming its longest — 16 — side, the city lying upon its shortest side, and General tne entrance being at one of its angles. Its description greatest length is very nearly 16% nautical miles, and its greatest width about 11 miles. The narrowest part of the lower bay, between Calabouco and Gravata1 points, has a width of 1 mile fys cables, or a trifle over 3,500 yards. A great part of the upper bay is shallow, with low swampy shores, very sparsely populated. The waters of some eighteen or twenty small rivers are poured into the bay, and these, in times of heavy rains, bring down enormous quantities of silt, with which it is gradually filling up. Some four or five miles above the city is the Ilha do Governa- dor, the largest island in the bay, having a max- isiands imum length of 6 miles and a width of two miles. This island is partially under cultivation and was once very prorperous — being known as the Ilha dos Sete Engenhos (Seven Sugar Estates) . Still farther up the bay, and more to the eastward, is the Ilha de Paqueta' — -by far the prettiest of the large islands and a favorite residence with many. The next largest is the Ilha da Con- ceicao, near Nictheroy, which possesses the highest elevation among the islands within the entrance to the bay. The total number of these — t; -. islands is said to exceed eighty, although no record of an exact computation can be found. Many of them are merely bare rocks fashioned into picturesque and fantastic shapes, but the great majority are covered with vegetation and are habitable. As in all countries where heavy duties are imposed on imported goods, the regulations of the port are somewhat rigorous and restrictive. Health All incoming vessels are required to drop visit anchor at the lower anchorage off Fort Viiie gagnon — called the "Poco" — and there await the health and customs officials. Until these visits are made, no communication whatever is per mitted with the ship. Should quarantine be imposed, the vessel is sent down to Ilha Grande — some 60 miles down the coast — where a costly Quarantine quarantine station has recently been built. The charges, as fixed by an official act of 3rd December, 1885, are as follows: 5$ooo per day for ist-class, 2$500 for 2nd-class, and 800 reis for 3rd-class passengers, with half rates for children between 4 and 10 years, and one-third rates for those between 1 and 4 years. The charges for baggage disinfection are: i$ooo per 100 kilogrammes for ist-class, 600 reis for — i8 — 2nd-class, and 300 reis for 3rdrdass passengers. In case of quarantine "observation," however, which is usually for 24 hours, the vessel is required to anchor near Jurujuba point. After permission has been given by the health officials for free practique with the shore, the mails are disembarked, and then the steamer proceeds to the upper anchorage, where the passengers and bag gage are discharged. Customs officials are put Customs on board and remain there until the steamer regulations js ready for sea. All baggage is sent directly to the custom house for examination, where it is at the disposal ofthe passenger, as soon as landed, from 9 a. m. until 3 p. m. Nothing can be pas sed on board without special permission, except ing, perhaps, small parcels of little or no value which the passenger may carry with him. To save trouble and to avoid all questions with the port and customs officials, passengers should be very careful to conform with the few regulations affecting them. Passports are required both Passports m entering and leaving the country, and no steamship company is permitted to sell a ticket to a foreigner until his passport has been pro perly visaed at the central police station, for which no charge is made. Recently, however, the police — 19 — authorities have adopted a regulation requiring a . consular vis6 before their own, and this involves some slight expense. A port regulation also for bids all communication with vessels after 8 o'clock in the evening, without a special permit. In leaving port on a foreign steamer, it is advisable to have one's baggage regularly dispatched at the custom house, which though not always exacted, is required by law and may be enforced. The baggage room in the custom house is at its upper end, near the Caes dos Mineiros. In going ashore, the passenger will have no difficulty in procuring boats, but should be careful to stipulate the price at the outset. The usual price is two mil reis ( 2$ooo ) either way between the steamer and landing, though two persons are often carried for the same price. The boats are all numbered and registered — as are all public vehicles and porters (carregadores) in the city — and travellers are advised to make a note of these wherever any difficulty arises. It may justly be said, however, that strangers are generally treated with courtesy, and, if careful in their previous bargains with those whom they employ, are certain to encounter but few of the difficulties and impositions which travellers are subjected to in foreign countries. 20 The city of Rio de Janeiro unfortunately bears a very bad reputation- for healthfulness— worse, perhaps, than it really deserves. The death rate is high, and the city is frequently Heaith ravaged by epidemics of small-pox and yellow fever. These are due to causes for which the people themselves are'to blame — such as the pollution of the bay, imperfect drainage, and irrational habits of living. There is, however, little or no danger for travellers except in epidemic seasons. The best months for visiting Rio de Janeiro are those from May to October, the winter season, when the climate permits extended excursions about the city and environs without the discomforts experienced in the summer months. With the precautions of temperate habits and the avoidance of undue exposure to the sun, or to the chilling influence of the night air, the trav eller may go about the city in the hottest season without fear. "Sugar Loa^—HarborEnt ranee (outside view). View l r olrT^Ra^hy^Wctneroy^^ Historical Sketch of the City. jIh'he city of S. Sebastiao do Rio de Janeiro, (S^ the capital ofthe Empire of Brazil, is situated on the south-western side of the bay of the same name, near its entrance, in Lat. 22" 53' 51" South and Long. 430 7' 6" West of Greenwich, and is therefore just within the Tropic of Capri corn. The Indian names of the bay were "Guanabara" and "NyterOi" — the latter meaning "hidden water." There is a great diversity of opinion as to the first discovery of the bay, the honor being commonly accorded to Martim Affonso de Discovery J Souza, who entered it on April 30th, 1531. It is certain, however, that several navigators had visited it previously, among whom were Solis, 22 — Magellan and Sebastian Cabot. According to the most trustworthy authorities the honor belongs to the Portuguese navigator Andr6 Goncalves, who entered the bay on January ist, 1502, while exploring the coast of the "Terra de Santa Cruz" (Land of the Holy Cross), in the service of D. Manuel, King of Portugal. Believing that he had entered the mouth of a great river, he gave it the name Rio de Janeiro (River of Jan uary). Goncal ves attempted no settlement, and pursued his voyage farther to the south after a brief delay in the harbor. Although the honor of discovering the bay First belongs to the Portuguese, the first settlement settlement was made by the French. On November 10th, 1555, two vessels, under the command of Nicholas Durand Viiiegagnon, which left Havre de Grace on the 12th of July preceding, entered the bay with the intention of founding a colony of French Huguenots in the new world. The venture was made under the protection of Admiral Gaspar de Coligny, and was entrusted to the care viiiegagnon anci guidance of Viiiegagnon, who bore the reputation of being a brave and trust worthy officer. The first landing was on the small rocky island at the entrance to the bay — 23 — now occupied by Fort Lage, which they attempt ed to fortify. The position was too exposed, however, and the breakers at high water soon drove them to the larger island, farther within the bay, which to-day bears Villegagnon's name. Fort Here a fort was constructed and named Coligny Coligny, and one ofthe ships was sent back to France to report the successful establishment of the colony, and to ask for further supplies. In the following November a second expedition, under the command of Bois le Comte, comprising "three vessels with 18 guns and 300 men, left Honfleur for the new colony, but did not arrive at its destination until March 16th, 1557. Among these new comers was Jean de Lery, a Calvinist minister, who in 1578 published an account of the expedition under the title of "Histoire d'un voyage fait en la terre du Bresil, " which is highly esteemed for its sketches of the natives. The French succeeded in making alliances with the native tribes surrounding them, in which they were greatly assisted by the enmity felt by the Indians toward the Portuguese on account of their inveterate slave-hunting propen sities. Secure in their island fortress, and greatly strengthened by the new arrivals, the French — 24 — had a good prospect before them of making their settlement on the bay of Rio de Janeiro per manent and prosperous, and this would probably have been the result had it not been for the subsequent dissensions, and the betrayal of the Protestant cause by Viiiegagnon himself. In the meantime the Portuguese Court had not been inactive, and measures were taken to expel these intruders upon the territory granted to Portugal by the famous bull of Pope Alex ander VI. Information ofthe actual state of the colony was first procured, but the death of D. Joao IV postponed action for a time. The growth of the colony finally aroused the Port- Attacked by uguese Court, and the governor-general of Portuguese Bahia, Mem de Sa\ was furnished with a few vessels from Portugal and ordered to proceed at once to expell the French from Portuguese territory. Mem de Sa left Bahia — then the capital of Brazil — on January ioth, 1560, and, after touching at various points along the coast in quest of volunteers, entered the bay of Rio de Janeiro on February 21st. Viiiegagnon had left for France in October, 1559, and the colony was in a very disordered condition. On March 15th, 1560, the Portuguese opened fire on Fort Coligny, ~~ 2$ — and on the following day effected a landing and ' Defeat of engaged the French in a hand to hand the French struggle. The fight was stubbornly contest ed on both sides, but the French were finally overpowered and retreated to the mainland under cover of the night. Mem de S£ then razed the fortifications and carried off the guns, but did not attempt to pursue the French to the main land, probably through fear of their Indian allies. He proceeded at once to S. Vicente, near the present city of Santos) and thence on June 1 8th to Bahia, where he was received with great manifestations of joy over his victory. Imme diately after the departure ofthe Portuguese, the French returned to the ruins of Fort Coligny, which they reconstructed. They also fortified the nearest point on the mainland, thus making their position more secure than before. It would seem that the French continued to prosper notwithstanding their reverses, for the Portuguese Court became thoroughly alarmed Second some three years later at the news of their expedition strength and prosperity and resolved upon decisive measures to destroy the colony. Two ships of war were sent lo Brazil early in 1564 under the command of Estacio de Si, a nephev\ — i6 — of the governor-general, and orders were sent to Bahia to aid the expedition with all the available forces in the country, and to establish a Port uguese colony on the disputed territory. The rest of the year was spent in organizing the ex pedition at Bahia and it was not until some time in January, 1565, that he set sail for Rio de Janeiro. Arriving off the harbor entrance on February 6th, he found the French so strong and the natives so hdstile that he concluded to seek reinforcements at S. Vicente before making his attack. These not being obtainable at that place, the rest of the year was spent in awaiting them from Bahia and Espirito Santo. Finally, on Jan uary 20th, 1566, Estacio de Sa sailed for Rio de Janeiro, where he arrived early in March. A landing was effected at a place near the Sugar Loaf where a settlement was made and fortified First Portuguese under the name of "Villa Velha," the settlement sjte 0f which is supposed to be where the military academy now stands. Frequent at tacks were made by the French and their Indian allies, but the Portuguese remained strictly on the defensive during the rest of the year, their inferior force rendering it impossible to assume the offensive. The Portuguese, however, seem — 27 — to have had the fullest confidence in their ultimate success, for, although shut up in a narrow gap on the sea shore and closely besieged by a superior force, Estacio de Si advanced his feeble little colony to the dignity of a city and called it Name Sao Sebastiao, in homage to the young King of Portugal — which name the city still bears. The governor-general at Bahia, Mem de Si, having been advised by his nephew of the critical state of affairs at Rio de Janefro, hastily organ ized an expedition in Bahia and Espirito Santo for the relief of the infant colony. Much time was consumed in obtaining vessels and men, and it was not until January 18th, 1567, that the fleet, commanded by Mem de Sa in person, arrived off the entrance to the bay. Immediate The French preparations were made to attack the defeated French position on the 20th, the feast day of St. Sebastian the Martyr who had been selected as the patron saint of the city. The Portuguese were everywhere successful, but they had the mis fortune to lose their commander, Estacio de Sa, who was wounded in the face with a poisoned arrow early in the day, and died one month after. Driven from their fortifications on the mainland, the French took to their ships, which for some — 28 -=- reason had not been attacked, and the Indians sued for peace. Thus ended the French occupa tion of the bay of Rio de Janeiro. Had it not been for the bad faith of Viiiegagnon, or the energy and courage of Mem de Si, Rio de Janeiro might have remained in the hands of the French Protestants, and the subsequent history of Brazil would have run in a widely different channel from that to which it was confined by the selfish col onial policy of Portugal. Immediately after his victory, Mem de Si moved the colony from the site of Villa Velha to Change tne Morro do Castello, and the name of the of site bay was formally added to that of the former settlement, making it Sao, Sebastiao do Rio de Janeiro, to which subsequent administrators have Final prefixed the honorary titles of "Muilo Leal name e Jferoica Cidade." The French, it may here be mentioned, had called their settlement La France Antartique, which name still appears in certain poetical effusions. The victory of the Portuguese is still commemorated by the illumina tion of all public, and many private buildings on Commemoration the 17th, 18th and 19th of January, and by salutes from the forts on the same nights. On the 20th occurs the religious commemoration — 29 — of St. Sebastian, whose image eight days thereafter is carried from the imperial chapel to his own church on Castle Hill, in which also rest the ashes of Estacio de Sa, the founder of the city. The Portuguese remained in peaceful pos session of their new settlement until August i ith, 1710, when a French expedition commanded by Dueierc's Duclerc, comprising five vessels and about invasion a thousand men, appeared at the bar and attempted an entrance into the bay. Failing in this, they went 'down the coast a few miles to Guaratiba, where a landing was effected. From this point a rapid advance was made on the city, and with such success that Duclerc had penetrated to the principal square and begun an attack on the governor's palace before any eftectual resistance was offered. A vigorous attack was then made on the invaders by the populace, which resulted in the defeat of Duclerc. He took refuge in a warehouse on the water front, and was there com pelled to surrender, or have the building burned down over his head. The surrender occurred September 19th, and on March 18th of the following year Duclerc was assassinated in his own room at night by two unknown individuals. This defeat and assassination of Duclerc aroused — 3o — a feeling of bitter resentment in France, and an expedition was at once fitted out for making re prisals composed of 18 vessels and a large number of men, which was commanded by no less a Duguay-Trouin's personage than the celebrated Duguay- invasion Trouin. The French fleet passed Fort Santa Cruz, not without loss, on September 12th, 171 1, and on the following day the Ilha das Cobras fell into their possession, from which com manding position preparations were made to storm the city. The total effective force landed by the French was 3,300 men, besides 500 men suffering from scurvy who were in part ready for service in a few days. The Portuguese force was three or four times this number, but lacked an efficient leader. Thro ugrf the cowardice and in capacity of the governor, Francisco de Castro de Moraes, who left the city with a part of his troops on the night of the 21st, the French effected a landing on the 22nd and took unopposed pos- capture of session of the place, from which the frightened the city people had fled to the recesses of the forests about Tijuca. Nearly five hundred of Duclerc's followers, who had been confined in prison since their surrender the preceding year, were released and joined in the sack of the city. To their — jt — credit, be it said, they marked the houses of all who had been kind to them and thus saved them from pillage. Duguay-Trouin then demanded the ransom of the city, under the penalty of reducing it to ashes, and his terms were finally acceded to by the frightened governor, although a relief expedition was then but a short distance away. The ransom paid was 610,000 cruzados The city (244,ooo$ooo gold), 500 cases of sugar, and ransomed cattle sufficient for the fleet. Having thus avenged the defeat of his countrymen, Duguay- Trouin withdrew from the city and harbor on November 13th, 1711. Since that date the city of Rio de Janeiro has never suffered an attack from a foreign enemy. Measures were at once taken to enlarge and strengthen the fortifications at Santa Cruz, S. Joao and Lage at the entrance to the bay, and on the islands of Cobras, B6a Viagem and Viiiegagnon within. The early history of the city does not show a very rapid or promising growth until the dis covery of gold in Minas Geraes by the Paulistas in 1693 was announced. Its proximity to the EaHv new mines gave it great importance at once, growth So much so that, although it had been the capital of a captaincy for many years and the - 32 - Capital of southern Brazil since 1680, its first governor-general hastened to take up his residence there in 1697. The city grew rapidly after this, and in 1762 was made the capital of all Brazil because of its greater strength and security from attack. On March 7th, 1808, Rio de Janeiro became the residence of D. Joao VI, of Portugal, Arrival of wno w'tn ms fam''y and Court had been D.John vi compelled to take refuge in Brazil to escape capture by the French. This event marked a new era in the history of the city, as it gave a great impetus to its growth, and did much to refine the manners and exalt the tastes of its people. There were naturally many parasites attached to the Portuguese Court who became heavy burdens upon the treasury and who after wards were the cause of much trouble, but at the same time^ there were many men and women of education and refinement who did much to improve and embellish the new world capital of the Portuguese Crown. One of the best and wisest measures of this monarch was the opening Opened to °f Brazilian ports to foreign commerce foreign commerce on January 28th, 1808, the date of his arrival at Bahia, and the second that of permitting the free exercise of every kind of industry to all _ 33- — classes of Brazilians, which was effected by a decree of April ist, 1808. Up to this time no foreign vessel was permitted to enter a Brazilian port, except to repair damages or to obtain sup plies, and it was rare thing, therefore, to see a foreign flag. The first year after the royal letter of January 28th, several foreign mercantile houses were established in Rio de Janeiro and 90 foreign vessels, besides 760 Portuguese, were entered at its custom house. In 1810, 422 foreign and 1,240 Portuguese vessels were entered, which shows how rapidly the commerce of the port increased under the new condition of things. A new era now opened to Rio de Janeiro. The introduction of foreign mercantile enterprise and the removal of the industrial restrictions which had weighed so heavily on the country, concessions gave a great impulse to the commercial and the Crown industrial development of the city. In addition to these wise measures, D. Joao VI established during his first year's residence a royal treasury, a national bank, supreme tribunals of justice and finance, and, for the first time in Brazil, a printing office and official gazette. Various corporations for the regulation of com merce and industry were also created. In the — 34 — following year a college of medicine and surgery was founded, in 1810 a royal military academy, and in 1814 a public library, composed prin cipally of some sixty thousand volumes brought from Portugal. For three centuries Brazil had been jealously closed to the outside world; now her ports were thrown open to the commerce of all nations, and her people for the first time felt the inspiration and impulse of free commercial intercourse. The First foreign mst foreigners to settle in Rio de Janeiro residents wele the English, who came immediately after the opening of Brazilian ports to foreign commerce. The French did not come until 1814, but their number soon outstripped that of every other nationality, all the small trades and industries falling into their hands. The city grew rapidly, spreading out toward S. Christovao, which was then a swampy plain, and along the Growth of Cattete toward Botafogo, which was a sandy the city wasle. The old city had been confined between Castle and S. Antonio hills on the south, S. Bento on the north, and the Campo de Sant'Anna on the west, the latter place then being a great, stagnant marsh. The buildings were also greatly improved in appearance through — 35 — the direct influence of the king. In regard to the population of the city at that time, no reliable statistics are to be found. According to Spix and Martius, who visited Brazil in 1817, the total population at the time of D. Joao VI's Population arrival — including whites, blacks and natives — was 50,000, which in 18 17 had increased to 110,000. They estimated the number of Portuguese arrivals during that period at 24,000. According to Walsh, who visited Brazil in 1828, an imperfect census ofthe city in 181 1 showed a population of 46,944, of which 22,780 were whites. In 1824, according to the same author, another imperfect census showed a population of about 130,000. In 1828, he found the total number of inhabited houses in the city to be 15,623, which, on an average of six persons to each house, showed a population of about 94,000. Taking into consideration the peculiar conditions of life and the large numbers of slaves owned in the city, which occasioned a higher average per house than elsewhere, he concluded that the actual population in 1828 was fully 150,000. By a royal decree of December 16th, 1815, Brazil was elevated to the dignity of a kingdom, conjointly with those of Portugal and Algarve, a - 36 - measure which did much to increase the impor- Poiiticai tance of the country and to arouse the aspira- changes tions of its people. On March 20th, 18 16, occurred the death of Dona Maria I, by which D. Joao VI, who had up to this time been rul ing as Prince Regent, succeeded to the Crown, but the formal acclamation of his succession did not take place until February 5th, 181 8. The year preceding this last event was signalized by the marriage of the king's son, Dom Pedro, to the Archduchess Leopoldina, daughter of Francis I of Austria. The following three years were un eventful ones in the city's history and afford little more than a record of petty intrigues and quarrels between the Portuguese and Brazilians. A mil itary force of the former was stationed in the city, and their pretensions and arrogant bearing was a constant source of discord. On May 13th, 1820, a new Exchange was formally opened on the Praia dos Mineiros next to the custom house, facing the present Rua de General Camara, which was afterwards (April 21st, 1821) the scene of a wanton attack by the Portuguese troops on the first meeting of electors ever held in Brazil, in which some thirty persons were killed and wound ed. The building was never afterwards occupied — 37 — as an Exchange, but was incorporated into the custom house, of which it is now the central part. In 1820 a revolution broke out in Portugal, which finally compelled D. Joao VI to return to Lisbon. Notwithstanding its auspicious begin ning, his rule in Brazil had not been successful, a result due more to the petty intrigues and Departure of quarrels of the people than to any fault of D.John vi bis own. He left Rio de Janeiro on April 26th, 182 1, and, in painful contrast to the patriotic feelings aroused by his arrival, very few regretted his departure. He left the ad ministration of Brazilian affairs in the hands of his son, Dom Pedro, as Prince Regent, and a council of four ministers. With him went a large number of the Portuguese nobles and capitalists who are said to have taken away with them more than 50,000,000 cruzados, or Financial about Rs. 20,000,000$ gold. This proved embarrassments a serious loss to the city and was the cause of much of the financial trouble which was afterwards experienced. On July 28th the Bank of Brazil, which was created October 21st, 1808, was compelled to suspend payments because of bad and dishonest management. All these occurrences tended strongly to embarrass the - 38 - development of the country, though the real causes were overlooked at the time. In addition to Reactionary leg- these causes for discontent, the isiation in Portugal Portuguese Cortes revoked all the liberal acts and concessions of D. Joao VI and endeavored to reduce Brazil again to the condi tion of colonial dependency on the mother country. Although the Portuguese troops left in Rio de Janeiro, aided by a large party of loyalist residents of the city, had compelled the prince regent to swear submission to the new constitution drawn up in Portugal, two legislative decrees of the Portuguese Cortes of September 29th led to a final rupture. The first of these abolished several of the supreme tribunals of justice and finance and all the commercial and industrial corporations created by D. Joao VI, and the second ordered the return to Lisbon of the prince regent. An immediate effort to secure Brazilian independence was made, but, not having The struggle tne support of the prince regent, it for independence faiied. On January 9th, the president of the municipal council, in obedience to a peti tion addressed to that body bearing upwards of eight thousand names, waited upon Dom Pedro and urged him to remain in Brazil. This the — 39 — prince regent finally promised to do. The Portuguese troops at once mutinied, but were overawed by the resolute action ofthe people who at once collected in the streets and prepared for an appeal to arms. The Portuguese capitulated Expulsion of the an(^ were at once sent out °f the c'tv- Portuguese On February 16th, a council of repre sentatives was convoked by Jose Bonifacio de Andrade e Silva, the patriot minister chosen by Dom Pedro to take charge of public affairs, but only four provinces responded. The only act of this body was to request the calling of a con stituent and legislative assembly, which was done by a decree of June 3rd, 1822. On August ist a manifesto was issued threatening an appeal to arms in case Portugal did not accede to the wishes of Brazil, and on September 7th, 1822, on the Declaration of receipt of peremptory dispatches from independence bis father, Dom Pedro formally declared the independence of Brazil at a place called Ypiranga, near Sao Paulo. He was solemnly proclaimed "Constitutional Emperor of Brazil" by the municipality on October 12th, under the name of Dom Pedro I, and his coronation took place on December ist, which latter event was signalized by a decree founding the order of the «— AO — ** ''Cruzeiro." The first year of his reign was chiefly occupied in expelling the Portuguese from the provinces of the north, which was successfully accomplished through the assistance of an En glish naval officer, Lord Cochrane. The first constituent and legislative assembly met on April 17th, 1823, but its formal opening was deferred First legislative um'l May 3'd, the anniversary of Cabral's assembly discovery of Brazil. It was charged with the task of preparing a constitution for the future government of the Empire, but its members wasted their time in political quarrels and in trigues until its sessions were closed by military force on November 12th. On the 26th of the same month the Emperor convened a special com mission for the purpose of drafting a constitution Tne under his personal supervision. The doc- Constitution urnent thus prepared was ready for adop tion early in January following, and was sub mitted to the municipal chambers of the prov inces for consideration, instead of to the national assembly. A majority of these chambers being considered favorable, although no formal vote ap pears to have been taken, the Emperor, Empress, Bishop and Municipal Council swore obedience to it on March 25th, 1824. — 4i — The subsequent history of the city shows no event of great importance until the close of the reign of Dom Pedro I. The prominent part taken by the municipality in the separation from Portugal and in the foundation of an imperial government under Dom Pedro I, led the Emperor to bestow upon it the title of "very loyal and heroic city" (muito leal e heroica cidade) on Jan uary 9th, 1823. The petty contests between rival political leaders and the arbitrary policy of the Emperor did much toward arresting the rapid growth of the city. The finances of the new gov ernment were in a disorganized condition. Ex- Financial penses were heavy, and the sources of difficulties revenue were meagre. Taxation was there fore increased, and a public debt created. All liberty of the press was extinguished. The second legislative assembly was not convoked until May 6th, 1826, and this only because of the necessities of the treasury. No adequate measures were adopted to meet these necessities, and the com merce and industries of the city continued to suffer from the use of a depreciated currency and the makeshifts of an impecunious govern ment. The reverses met with in the war with Buenos Aires, both by land and sea, and the — 42 — employment of privateers by the last named coun try, had so damaging an effect on commerce that the marine insurance from Rio de Janeiro to Bahia was 10% under convoy, while 30% was often refused without convoy. At the same time, it was notorious that supplies were sent direct to Buenos Aires in fast sailing vessels, clearing os tensibly for the coast of Chili. In June 1828, the good order of the city was violently dis turbed by a revolt among the German soldiers because of the cruel punishment of one of their Disturbances number, in which they were joined by the Irish immigrants who had been induced to come to Brazil under false representations. The riot was aggravated by the arming of the roughs and slaves, who were instructed to give no quarter to the foreigners. This unfortunate revolt was finally suppressed, but it left an impression highly un favorable to the country. The German troops, who had been enlisted from the colonists, were sent to the southern provinces, and most of the Irish, who refused to enlist, were sent back to Ireland. The arbitrary temper of Dom Pedro I and the unconcealed lack of sympathy between him and his subjects, out of which grew endless — 43 — controversies and reclamations, finally led to his Abdication voluntary abdication of the throne in favor of d. Pedro i 0f his only son, Dom Pedro de Alcan tara — then between five and six years of age — which took place on April 7th, 1831. Entrusting the guardianship of the young prince to Jose" Bonifacio de Andrada, he immediately went on board a British man-of-war in the harbor, and on the 13th set sail for Portugal with the other members of his family. The popular manifesta tions of joy over this peaceful revolution were very great, and the young prince was immediately acclaimed Emperor under the title of Dom Pedro II. A regency was at once formed, and the affairs of state went on in the old grooves undisturbed. During the next eight years there were many political changes, involving regents and ministries, but none of them led to any serious disorder. In July, 1840, the agitation for Accession a declaration of the Emperor's majority of D.Pedro 11 finally led to an open rupture between parliament and the regency. The declaration of Dom Pedro's majority immediately followed, and the third revolution passed without bloodshed. The young Emperor, then in his fifteenth year, at once assumed (he duties and responsibilities of — 44 — government, which, with one exception, renders his rule the longest of any monarch living, the accession of Queen Victoria preceding him by three years. He was crowned on July 18th, 1841, and in 1843 was married to the Princess Theresa Christina Maria, daughter of Francis I, King of Naples, who arrived in Rio de Janeiro on September 3rd of that year. In 1839 steamship communication along the coast was opened, which gave a great impetus to the trade of Rio de Janeiro, but it was not until steamships, I^5° tnat regular steam communication Railways, etc, with Europe was opened and not until 1865 that the first steamship line to the United States was inaugurated. The first railway in Brazil was the short line between Mau£, at the upper end of the bay, to the foot of the moun tains on the way to Petropolis, which was opened in 1853. In 1854 the city was first lighted with gas, and the construction of the present system of sewage works was begun. Five years before, in December, 1849^ yellow fever made its appearance Yellow f°r the first time, and this necessitated the im- fever mediate adoption of sanitary improvements. It is probable that the fever had made its appear ance in the city before, as it is now considered — 45 — by many good authorities to have been introduced by the slave trade, but it was not until the epidemic of 1850 that' its presence here was rec ognized. Although the city is now efficiently served with sewers and many of the unsanitary customs of the city have disappeared, the fever still remains in an endemic form, with occasion ally an epidemic outbreak, which shows that its real causes have not yet been discovered and removed. In 1858 the first section and in 1864 the second or mountain section of the Dom Pedro II railway were opened to traffic, through whose instrumentality the trade of the city was rapidly and largely increased. In 1873, sub marine telegraphic communication was established with the northern ports, and in the following year with Europe. During these years the growth of the city has been steady and its commerce has been widely extended. In 1754 the first coffee tree in Brazil Coffee was planted in the garden of the S. Antonio convent in this city, but coffee did not become an object of cultivation until many years after. Early in the present century its value as an exportable product began to be recognized, and its cultivation at once became an object of general interest. The - 46- hills about the city and about the bay were covered with coffee orchards, the remains of which are still to be seen in places. Coffee cultivation, however, has long since disappeared from this vicinity and with the opening of railways across the mountain ranges along the coast has pushed its way into the virgin districts of the interior. It is now the principal product of the three central provinces of Rio de Janeiro, Minas Geraes and Sao Paulo, and the trade of the city is almost wholly dependent upon it. The City and its Institutions. IJK-'he city of Rio de Janeiro is located in a vS^neutral district, called the municipio neutro, which is analogous to the District of Columbia in The capital which the capital of the United States is district situated. The separation of this district from the province of Rio de Janeiro took place in 1835, previous to which the city was the capital of the province as well as of the empire. The municipal district extends from the bay west to the Rio Guandd, and north from the Atlantic to Rio Mirity, comprising an area of about 538 square miles. It is divided into thirteen urban and eight suburban parishes. The city proper covers an area of eight to nine square miles. The municipality is governed partially -48- by the imperial government and partially by a city board of twenty-one aldermen. The city government na.s no mayor, nor other executive officer, ! and the legislative acts of its board of aldermen are dependent upon the minister of empire (to whose department it belongs) for approval. The administrative system followed is exceedingly complicated and cumbersome, to which is due much of the inefficiency which characterizes the government of the city. The aldermen are elected for four years, and are subject to removal by the imperial government. The administration of municipal affairs is superintended principally by aldermanic committees, the president of the board, who is elected at the opening of each year, having no special executive authority. The division of authority between the board of alder men (camara municipal) and the general govern- Divided ment in municipal affairs is very complicated powers anci not easily explained. The fire and police departments, public lighting, street clean ing, tramway fiscalization, public gardens, water works, sewerage and drainage works and sanitary matters, are all under the control of the general government, while street paving, opening of streets for gas-pipe repairs and other purposes, markets, *¦— -- '"' ^HT ' '¦ — 49 — license for tramway lines, street fiscalization, etc., are under the control of the municipal council; The public slaughter house at Santa Cruz, nearly 35 miles distant from the city by railway, is muni cipal property and is under the immediate control of the aldermen. The city has also a reversionary interest in the tramway lines and expects to city assume control of them in due time. The Ha" neutral district elects three deputies to the General Assembly, but is still considered a part of the province in its parliamentary representation, The number of qualified voters is 7,046. The City Hall is situated on the Praca d'Accla- macao, between Rua do General Camara and Rua de S. Pedro, and is considered to be one of the noteworthy public edifices, though badly constructed. It was completed and occupied •in 1882. Owing to the mountainous character of the country, the city is exceedingly irregular in shape General anc^ 'ts suburbs are widely separated from description each other. The city proper lies between Castle, S. Antonio and Santa Thereza hills on the south, and S. Bento, Conceicao and Livramento hills on the north, spreading out to the westward over an extensive low plain. The suburbs of — so — Cattete, Laranjeiras, Botafogo and Gavea lie to the south-west and comprise some of the most picturesque and salubrious localities in the city. The Cidade Nova, S. ChristovSo, Engenho Novo, Villa Isabel. Tijuca and other smaller suburbs lie to the west and north-west. There are but few wide streets in the old town, and the majority of streets tne buildings are of the old style, built buildings, etc. principally of broken stone and mortar, plastered on the outside, or faced with illuminat ed tiles. Recently, however, better taste has been shown in building, and more cut stone is used. The principal streets are well paved with granite parallelopipedons, though most of the back streets still retain their old cobblestone pave ments. Tiles are almost exclusively used for roofing, and as the native woods of the country are very hard and dwellings do not require the interior wood-work and furniture needed in cold climates, firejj are of rare occurrence. In the suburbs many ofthe recently-built residences are very handsome and comfortable, and their gardens can not fail to excite the warmest admiration. The streets are cleaned by a private contractor, who receives a subsidy from the imperial govern ment for the service. Another contractor cleans- — Si — the beaches of all refuse washed up by the sea, or deposited there by the people. The sewerage Sewerage works were constructed by an English anddrainage company, called the Rio de Janeiro City Improvements Co. , which possesses a long term contract and enjoys certain privileges guaranteed- to it by the government. The Leicester system is. employed, the sewers being exhausted by pumps and their contents tiisinfected and precipitat ed in the pump-house tanks. There are five of these pump-houses at present. The surface drainage ofthe city is accomplished by a separate system of sewers, which is only partially com pleted. In heavy rains some parts of the city suffer greatly from inundations, owing to the accumulation of water in narrow valleys and the defective drainage o( the central pail of the city, whose general level is but slightly above the sea. According to the census of 1872 the popula tion of the city and municipal district of Rio de Janeiro was 274,972. This census is said to Population nave been very defective, but as no other attempt has been made in over half a century these figures may be assumed to be quite as correct as the estimates frequently made, The size, climate and hygienic conditions of the city being somewhat similar to New- Orleans, the growth of the latter Irom 1870 to 1880 may be taken as a fair basis upon which to calculate the present (December, 1886) population of Rio de Janeiro. The increase of population in New Orleans was very nearly 13 per cent, between 1870 and 1880, or an average increase of 1.3 per cent, per annum. For the 14 years since 1872 this rate gives an increase of 50,000, from which the present population appears to be about 325,000. A local statistician, Sr. J. P. Favilla Nunes, estimates the total population for 1885, however, at 357,332. For the 14 years under consideration the average annual death rate was over 35 per thousand, the immigration small and the conditions of lile somewhat unlavorable to a large increase of population; this assumption of the New Orleans rate of increase may therefore be accepted as a fair and favorable basis for Rio de Janeiro. According to the last official reports the total number of buildings, both public and private, in the city and its suburbs was 33,327, of which over 2,000 were reported as unoccupied. Of these 21,440 are classified as terreos, or one- story buildings. At an average of 10 persons to each occupied building the total is within the — S3 — estimate above given. The city possesses 1,045 streets and alleys of all descriptions, 77 public squares and gardens, 7 cemeteries. 67 churches and 10 hospitals. The water supply of the city is now obtained from two principal sources, the old Carioca Water aqueduct whose supply is obtained from the supply mountains immediately back of the city, and the new Rio do Ouro water works which bring a much larger supply from some mountain streams in the Sena do Tingua, about 33 miles north-west from the city. There are several small streams whose waters are utilized for public con sumption, but the two here given are the principal sources. The first of these — -the Carioca aqueduct- — The Carioca *s olle °^ lne niost notable remnants of aqueduct colonial times now existing in the city. The water supply is drawn from some small streams flowing down the mountain sides of the Corcovado and the hills extending back toward Tijuca. Formerly these waters flowed down through the Larangeiras valley and were discharg ed into the bay through a small stream called by the names of Carioca, Larangeiras and Cattete al different points of its course. These waters have always been justly celebrated for their purity and — 54 — sweetness, and were much prized in the early history of the city when the people had to send for it as far out as the Larangeiras valley. The first aqueduct for conveying these waters into the city was begun in 1673, but owing to the limited resources of the municipality and the contention between the Jesuits and the authorities over the wages to be paid the Indians who were employed as laborers, the conduits were not completed until 1723, and even then only through the purchase of slaves by the municipality for this special work. The first aqueduct was composed of open tile conduits laid on masonry foundations and passed down to the present public fountain in Rua das Marrecas, near the English Church, where it termi nated for a time, and thence to the present reservoir in Largo da Carioca. The total cost of this work up to the dale of opening the Carioca fountain, was 600,000 cruzados, or 240,000$ gold. Owing lo bad construction and the open conduits, it was soon found necessary lo rebuild much of the work. This was begun under Governor-General Gomes Freire de Andrade about 1744 and was completed in 1750. There are no records in existence showing the cost of this fine piece of work. The new aqueduct did not follow — 55 — the course of the old conduits, but was carried over the Santa Thereza hill, across the gap between Santa Thereza and Santo Antonio hills on two ranges of stone arches, 60 feet above the Rua dos Arcos, the upper range contain ing 42 arches in all, and thence around the southern and eastern faces of Santo Antonio hill to the Largo da Carioca. Two of these arches in each series were substituted, a few years ago, by one single arch by the City Improvements Co. This magnificent work has ¦ now stood nearly 140 years and is as solid as when first constructed. The total length ol this aqueduct is about four miles. Ewbank gives the length of channel from '.he Mae d'Agua to the tower on Santo Antonio hill as 20,305 feel, with a fall oT 749 feet. Tlie length of the arches between Santa Thereza and Santo Antonio is 833 feet, with a fall a Sete de Setembro) is the or Campo de Sant'Anna, «Camp0 da Accl amacao," pop - ularly known by its old name of Campo de Sant'Anna. In colonial times this Campo, or field, was just outside the city limits, but with the abandonment of the scheme for restricting the city within walls, which were partially erected, this district was rapidly covered with dwellings. At an early date it became a favorite place for popular manifestations, and it was here that D. Pedro I was acclaimed Emperor of Brazil in 1822, from which it takes its present official name. Most ofthe political demonstrations con nected with the history of the city, whether pacific or revolutionary, have occurred on this spot. In 1873 an improvement was begun in the creation of a public garden to cover the greater part of this Campo, which was completed and inaugurated in 1880, and now forms one ofthe most attractive pleasure grounds in the city. — 62 — Facing on the western side of the Campo are the Senate and Mint, and on the eastern side the City Hall and National Museum. The central station of the D. Pedro II railway is at its north western corner. There are several other public squares in the city, most of them with small gardens, but none of them offer any special attraction. The Praca Municipal in the Saude district possesses a fountain whose distinctive feature is a granite column commemorating the landing there of the Empress in 1843. The public garden at the Largo do Machado — of ficially designated as the "Praca Duque de Caxias" — lying just at the entrance to the Larangeiras valley, possesses some attractions, but none of great interest. By far the prettiest garden in the city, though not the largest, is the "Passeio Publico," which is Passeio situated on the shore of the bay facing the Publico, harbor entrance. This charming little garden was laid out by Valentim da Fonseca e Silva under the orders of Viceroy Luiz de Vas concellos e Souza, and was formally opened in 1783. Many of its original features have now disappeared, but the garden still retains most of the characteristic beauties of its first design. It -63 - is filled with choice native and exotic plants in whose arrangement exceptional good taste has been shown. For its present appearance much credit is due to its efficient superintendent Dr. A. Glaziou, under whose direction the garden, which had fallen into a state of great neglect, was thoroughly reformed and improved in 1861. In this improvement the front wall was substituted by an iron fence, which was set farther back to widen the street. On the side facing the bay is a large elevated terrace, which is a favorite resort for evening promenades. From this spot can be obtained a fine view of the lower bay and harbor entrance. Whether for a stroll through its wind ing, shady walks and a view from its terrace in the day time, or for a promenade through its shadowy gas-lighted paths and on its crowded terrace in the cool ot the evening, with the sounds of music stealing softly through the foliage, the Passeio Publico is a place which never fails to give pleasant impressions. More attention has been bestowed upon other public gardens pf the city, but this oldest of Rio's pleasure resorts still holds first place in the affections of the people. The National Library and Casino face upon this garden . -64- The largest and most widely known of Rio's public gardens, however, is the "Jardim Botan- Botanicai 'c0>" which lies about six miles distant Garden. from the central part of the city in a south-westerly direction. A full description will be given in another chapter. The grounds at tached to the imperial palace in the suburb of The imperial Sao Christovao — called the Imperial Quinta Park. da Boa Vista — are open to the public and are much frequented. The grounds have been laid out with much good taste, though the stu dious habits ot the Emperor have not led him to develop the natural beauties of the place as fully as could be desired. Add to these the "Floresta" at Tijuca, where a systematic effort at tree cultivation is carried on, and a small garden attached to the Imperial Quinta on Cajd point, which is noted for its fine old mango trees and its pretty views out over the upper bay, and we have all that is most interesting in the way of public pleasure grounds in the city. The public buildings of the city are for the most part old and uninteresting, some of them Public dating from the colonial period, some buildings, being private residences remodeled to meet public necessities, and some being mere - 65 - aggregations of structures added on to suit the requirements of the day. Recently, however, there have been efforts to erect public buildings of a better architectural character and more in consonance with the wealth and political, im portance ofthe imperial capital of Brazil. During the early history of the city the royal governors had no official residence and it was The Imperial not until 1698 that a building was pur- Paiaces. chased by the crown for a vice-regal palace. This palace was situated on the Rua Direita, now called the Rua Primeiro de Marco. The site of the palace is now occupied by the new Exchange. Considering this building insufficient for the offices and dignity of the royal governors, Gomes Freiie de Andrade. undertook the construction of old city a new Pa'ace in the Largo do Carmo, which Palace was completed in 1743. Although an effort was made in 1766 to change the governor's res idence to the abandoned Jesuit's college on Castle Hill, the palace in Largo do Carmo — to day the "Praca D. Pedro II'' — continued to be occupied by the royal governors until the arrival ofthe royal family in 1808. The building prov ing insufficient to shelter all the persons attached to the royal court, the Carmelite brothers gave up — 66 — their conveht on the opposite side of the street, which was connected with the palace by a covered bridge, still existing. The old convent was for several years the residence of the queen, D. Maria I. The Relacao (supreme court) was also removed to another locality, and the old palace was enlarged and improved to meet the extraordinary demands of its royal occupants. After the removal of D. Joao VI to the palace of S. Christovao the old palace ceased to be a residence of the. Crown, though it is still used for court receptions on principal holidays ( dias de grande gala). The building possesses no architectural merit whatever and is not opened to the public but once a year — Corpus Christi day — when the crown plate and jewels are exhibited. A suite of rooms on the third floor of ihe old convent is occupied by the Instituto Historico, whose library possesses considerable value on matters pertaining to the history of Brazil. A light iron covered bridge spans Rua Sete de Setembro between the convent and the imperial chapel. Soon after the arrival of the royal family in Brazil, a merchant named Elias Antonio Lopes presented D. Joao VI with his own residence in the suburb of S. Christovao, then considered - 67 - the finest private dwelling in the vicinity of Boa vista, or the city. Since then this palace — to which s. ciiriBtovao was given the names "Real Quinta da Boa Vista" and "Paco de S. Christovao" — has been the habitual residence of the sovereign. It is situated within extensive grounds of much natural beauty, which have been laid . out in winding avenues, lawns, artificial ponds and ornamental thickets. The site is a commanding one and is well suited for an imperial residence. The palace faces the city and presents a pleasing appearance from that side, though it, also, pos sesses no architectural merit. The edifice since its first occupation has been frequently altered and enlarged, the result of which is an absolute lack of harmony either in design or arrangement. It possesses no special object of interest beyond that which attaches to its imperial occupants. Besides these there are three other residences belonging to the Crown — the small quinta on the Caiuand Ponta do Cajii, the imperial fazenda of Santa Cruz Santa Cruz, thirty miles from the city, which was a favorite country house of D. Pedro I, and the imperial palace in Petropolis, which is occupied by the Emperor and Empress during the summer months. The residence of the Princess Imperial and her husband Comte d'Eu — called the Palacio Isabel — is situated in Laran geiras facing Rua Paysandii, but, beyond its at tractive surroundings and quiet home-like appear ance, possesses no special interest. The public edifices of the imperial govern- . ment are very much scattered throughout the city Pubiic and are for the most part old and unattrac- edifices tive. The offices of the minister of foreign affairs are situated on the Rua da Gloria, facing an untidy public garden, and those of the min- cabinet 'ster °I justice on the Rua do Passeio, departments facing the Passeio Publico — both undis- linguishable from the private residences about them. The department of agriculture, commerce. and public works occupies a new and attractive edifice on the southern side of the Praca D. Pe dro II, and is architecturally the most noteworthy public building which the government possesses. It is quadrangular in form, three floors in height, and possesses two tastefully designed entrances, one on its eastern and the other on its western side. The edifice was designed by Dr. Francisco Pereira Passes, civil engineer, and was originally intended for the general postoffice. The laying of its corner-stone took place on 7th September, — 69 — 1871, and the building was formally turned over to the minister of agriculture on 20th January, 1875. The Treasury, in which are the offices of the minister of finance, is situated on Rua do Sacramento, near the northern side of the Praca da Constituicao. It is a plain, substantial build- .ing of recent construction (1869-1870), and possesses no feature of exceptional interest. The offices of the minister of empire occupy an un pretentious building at the south-west corner of the Praca da Constituicao, which was formerly a private residence. The offices of the minister of war are located in the Quartel General (general barracks) on the northern side of the Campo d'Acclamacao, and those of the minister of marine in the Marine Arsenal on Rua i.° de Marco, just to the right of the Praia dos Mineiros landing stage. The arsenal dependencies occupy Arsenals the whole water front at the foot of the Morro de S. Bentd, and include ship yards, machine shops, storehouses and naval schools. The naval hospital, barracks, storehouses and some of the sub-departments are located on the Ilha das Cobras, where are also situated the two great dry docks belonging to the government. The Arsenal of War occupies the water front at the — 7o — Ponta do Calabouco, under Castle Hill, and in cludes a large number of mechanical industries, in addition to its storehouses and barracks. The corner-stone of a new arsenal was laid in 1874 at Realengo do Campo Grande, some distance out pi the city, but it has never been completed. The place is now used for artillery and musketry. practice. The legislative chambers of the General Assembly — the Senate and the Chamber of Dep uties — occupy two separate buildings, both old and uninteresting. The Senate is located on the eastern The side of the Praca d'Acclamacao and, aside Senate from the regular sessions of that body, is used for the ceremonial opening of each legislative session. The building is small and unprepos sessing. The Chamber of Deputies occupies the chamber angle between the Old Palace and the of Deputies department of agriculture, facing on Rua da Misericordia. In colonial times it was used for a city hall and jail and possesses therefore the one distinguishing feature of association with the earlier history of the city. In all other respects, the edifice is devoid of interest. Among the public buildings of the city the Mint unquestionably occupies a prominent place as one of the very best. It is a substantial!)' ¦'¦*„ : r lip " 1 —¦IK - *WI|P ^^s«^ s* tic WjRs %%¦ -« ~f-,- -. ¦ — -^- r" . afe ,-¦¦*" ^T Rio de Janeiro, from Ilha das Cobras. — 71 — built edifice, facing on the Campo d'Accla- The Mint, niacao, and is distinguished by two series of granite pillars which ornament the salient ' central facade. Its construction was begun in 1858, but it was not finished and occupied until 1868. Its cost was about 2,000,000$, or twice the original estimate. The first mint established in Brazil was at Bahia in 1694, which was removed to Rio de Janeiro in 1699, and then in the following year to Pernambuco. A permanent mint was established in Rio de Janeiro in 1703. It was originally . located in the palace of the governor-general, but for many years occupied buildings attached to the Treasury. In addition to coining money, the Mint is now charged with the printing of revenue and postage stamps. It possesses an excellent collection of old coins. Another important dependency of the depart ment of finance is the Custom House, which The occupies the whole water front between Custom House tne Market and the Caes dos Mineiros, covering an area of a little over twelve acres. The whole water front from the marine arsenal to the arsenal of war, which is completed only as far as the first ferry house, has been constructed according to the plans of Charles Neate, Esq., an — 72 — English hydraulic engineer, which were adopted by the government in 1853. These plans com prised a large basin for the use of vessels dis charging cargo at the Custom House, which is completed, a smaller basin in front of the Market, also completed, and a third basin near the arsenal of war for the use of the small craft of the bay, which has not yet been built. The running quays between the two arsenals, the basins and landing stages were originally estimated to cost £ 370,130, but this estimate has long since been exceeded. The work of construction was begun in 1853, but in 1863 a part of the mole in front of the custom house basin collapsed, causing an enormous loss. The removal of the debris and preparations for recommencing the mole occupied the next ten years, the first stone of the present- mole being laid 2nd July,^ 1873. The debris from the collapsed mole was used to enlarge the Ilha dos Ratos, on which an edifice is being con structed for the port officials. The mole is 300 metres long and nearly 17 metres wide on top. The basin enclosed comprises an area of nearly four acres, and was intended to accommodate 16 vessels, but it has been used only for lighters, The storehouses were begun in 1855, but only a — 73 — small part of the original design has been ex ecuted, most of the storehouses in use being temporary structures, or old buildings. The main entrance, opening upon Rua do General Camara, was originally built for an Exchange, but was abandoned in 1821 because of an attack on a meeting of electors by a military force, in which several persons were killed and wounded. The total cost of the quays and basins up to 1877 was nearly 12,000,000$, and of the store- - houses, hydraulic cranes, engine house, etc., nearly 4,000,000$. Considerable sums are being appropriated every year for the buildings and quays, the latter being un'der construction to the arsenal of war'. Up to the year 1834 the city possessed no public market, the beaches and open squares being used by the people for that purpose. The The beach where the market basin is now located, Market tiien known as the Praia do Peixe, had become a central place for the sale of fish because of the tithes collected from fishermen which made a central point necessary to prevent avoidance of the tax. In 1834 the city council resolved upon the construction of a Market at this point, and in the following year the part facing upon the Praca — 74 — D. Pedro II was ready for occupation. The whole building was completed in 1841, the cost to the city having been 170,396$. The building was one story in height and quarangular in form, with an open place in the centre for small vendors. A fountain was erected in the centre of this quadrangle. In 1871 the lessee ofthe build ing added another floor, and at various intervals open sheds have been added to meet increasing requirements. At present the open squares on both sidfes are used for market purposes every morning, the buildings being totally inadequate for the traffic. A busier and more interesting scene is not to be found'anywhere than that which this market presents in the early morning, and it is well worth a visit. A great part of the market produce is brought in boats from the islands and fertile shores of the bay. The system followed and the restrictions imposed greatly impede the operations of the multitudes who bring their produce here for sale, and thus prevent the devel opment of small cultivation about the bay, for which its rich alluvial lands are so well adapted. Two other marketplaces were subsequently con structed — one in the Praca da Harmonia, Saude, which is only used to a limited extent, and the — 75 — other on the Caes da Gloria, Catlete, which failed as a market and is now used for small shops and tenements for the poor. There is one other public work in the city which has some con nection with this subject, the Mangue canal in that part of the city called the "Cidade Nova." Mangue The gasometer is situated on this canal, and Canal trie Tijuca trams run beside it for some dis tance. This district was formerly a great swamp and various schemes for its drainage- had been devised as far back as the times of D. Joao VI. It was not until 1857, however, that work was actually begun, which was under a contract with the Barao de Maua. The canal was designed not only to drain the swamps, but was to serve a projected market at the Praca Onze de Junho, permitting boats to ascend to that point. A basin was constructed at that point for the use of the projected market. Only about 1,400 yards of this canal were ever finished, no boats ever as cended it, no market was built, an expenditure of 1,378,000$ was incurred in its construction, and it now serves only as a receptacle of refuse from the gas-works and neighboring localities. Large sums have been expended in cleaning it out and in the creation of ornamental gardens along its banks. - 76 - The Postoffice, which is a sub-department under the general control of the minister of agriculture, is situated on Rua Primeiro de Marco, Tne near the custom house. It occupies a half Postoffice 0fa new building originally designed by the Associacao Commercial for an Exchange, the Caixa da Amortizacao (sinking fund and redemp tion bureau of the treasury) occupying the other half. The building stands partially upon the site of the old Exchange, has three floors and pos sesses no great architectural merit. lis first corner-stone was laid in 1872 for an Exchange, but in the following year an agreement was made with the government for a modification of the plans by which the edifice was to be enlarged and turned over to the state for a Postoffice and Caixa da Amortizacao. A second corner-stone was laid on the 24th April, 1875, and the building was ready for occupancy early in 1877. Under the new arrangement the Associacao Commercial undertook to erect two other buildings im mediately above the Postoffice, similar in size and design, the central one of which should be the The new Exchange. This plan has been chang- Exchange ed, however, by the erection of one large edifice (not yet completed) on the site originally — 77 — designed for two. The new building is solidly constructed, and promises to be a noteworthy ad^ dition to the public edifices of the city, though somewhat marred by architectural defects. Its corner-stone was laid on 7th May, 1880, but the cost of the building has so greatly exceeded the association's resources that work on it has been for some time suspended. It has a frontage of 220 feet on Rua Primeiro de Marc:>, and a depth of 148 feet. The Exchange is at present located in an old building immediately behind the Postoffice, which was formerly used by the Custom House. It is open during bank hours, and keeps newspapers on file from all the principal countries of the world. One of the most pleasing buildings in the city is the new Caixa Economica (savings bank) The Savings 'n ^l,a -D- Manoel, near the department Bank. of agriculture. It is simple and unpreten tious in style, but this very simplicity, added to its solidity, renders it decidedly attractive. It is one of the few public buildings in the city where the use of dressed granite has not been marred by the use of exterior plastering. The edifice was completed toward the end of 1886 at a total cost of very nearly 345,000$, and is occupied by - 78 - the Caixa Economica and Monte de Soccorro (pawn office), both of which are government institutions, their balances being loaned to the Treasury. The first printing press in Brazil — after that imported and used by the Dutch during their National brief occupancy of Pernambuco — was Printing Office set up in this city in 1808 by D. Joao VI, who authorized the publication of a royal gazette. A second was set up in Bahia in 181 1, and these two were the only printing presses used in Brazil up to 1 82 1. During the present reign the press has enjoyed more liberty, which has not only led to the creation of a large number of private print- . ing offices, but has stimulated the government itself to enlarge and improve the public office established so near the beginning of the century. The national printing office was for many years located in some old buildings in Rua da Guarda Velha, just opposite the present edifice. The ne cessity of providing better and more spacious accommodations for this branch of the public service, which had begun to publish works of importance in addition to the routine work of the public departments, led the government to un dertake the construction of a new building. — 79 — Work was begun in August, 1874, and the "Typo- graphia Nacional" was finished at the end of 1877 at a total cost of 1,000,592$, including the cost of some new machinery. The building, however, was not occupied until the following July. The offices are large and well mounted and are provided with machinery for type-founding and stereotyping. The main building is a radical departure from the styles of architecture most employed in Brazil, for which reason it attracts much attention. In addition to symbolic designs in relief, the facade of the building is ornamented by statues of Gutenberg, Fust, Sch'ceffer and Coster. The large halls on the upper floor are used for exhibitions and lectures, while one of those on the lower floor is used for lottery drawings — a purpose widely inconsistent with the objects to which the edifice is devoted. Among the most noteworthy of the city's public institutions, to the " Bibliotheca Nacional " must unquestionably be accorded a leading place. The nucleus of this library was a large collection of books and manuscripts brought from the National royal libraries and archives of Portugal by Library tj joao yi in 1808. This collection was thrown open to the public in 181 1, the library — 8o — being then located in Rua do Carmo. tn set tling accounts with Portugal after the declaration of independence, it is said that Brazil paid that country about 400,000$ for the books and manuscripts in this collection. In 1858 the library was moved to its present quarters on the Largo da Lapa, facing the Passeio Publico, where a private residence had been secured and remod eled for its reception. Since then the collection has been so largely increased that the building is rapidly becoming inadequate for the purpose, though the locality is in many respects an admirable one on account of its quiet sur roundings. The construction of a new building in a more central locality is under consideration. The library is said to now contain about 200,000 works, including books, manuscripts, engravings and medals, of which the books probably exceed 150,000 in number. The collection of the ear liest printed works is large and valuable, as is also that relating to the early history of Portugal and Spain, and their American colonies. The first attempt to establish a museum of natural history in Rio de Janeiro was made by Viceroy Luiz de Vasconcellos (1779-90), but -without permanent result, as the collections were broken up and the building devoted to other National purposes by D. Joao VI soon after his Museum arrivai ;n Brazil. This museum, which was called the "Casa dos Passaros," was situated on the Campo da Lampadosa, and its site is now occupied by the Treasury. In 1818 D. Joao VI resolved upon the creation of a "Museu Real," for which purpose a property occupied by private dwellings situated on the Campo de Sant'Anna was purchased for 32,000$, which was put1 in order and occupied by the end of that year. The original purpose was the creation of a museum of natural history, but the institution was soon made a receptacle for all kinds of curios and objects of scientific and historical interest. From time to time the museum, which after the declaration of independence became the "Museu Nacional," has been enriched with collections made by for eign naturalists travelling in Brazil and by valu able contributions from native collectors, but unfortunately a great part of these are lost to the scientific world because they have never been classified and mounted for exhibition. Rich as the museum is in its collections, the heterogen eous character of its contents, lack of space and orderly arrangement, all together depreciate their — 82 — practical value very materially. Some of the departments, however, are in good order and afford excellent opportunities for studying the natural history of the country. The building contains two floors and covers a considerable area, but is inconvenient and poorly adapted for the exhibition of the collections. It possesses, however, many objects of scientific, historical, archeolog- ical and anthropological value which will richly repay a visit. It is the possessor, also, of a good collection of coins. One of the early objects of solicitude on the part of D. Joao VI, after his arrival in Brazil, was the embellishment of his new capital and the education of his people in the fine arts. The revenues of the country, however, were limited and the necessities of his followers excessive and exigent, for which reasons his purposes were carried out slowly and with difficulty. In 1815 the Marquez de Marialva engaged a number of French artists to come to Brazil to found a school of fine, arts, and to give instruction in those branches of art work necessary tp the industrial ¦ development of the country. A large number of these artists arrived in Rio de Janeiro the fol lowing year, among whom' were Le-Breton, - 83 - Debret, Taunay, Grandjean, Pradier, Ferrez, and many others whose names have become celebrated in Brazilian history. Upon the arrival of these Academy of artists and under the patronage ofthe Conde Fine Arts (je Barca a royal decree was issued on the 12th August, 1816, founding the "Escola Real de Sciencias, Artes e Officios." By the death of the Conde de Barca in 181 7 the school lost its protector and was broken up. In 1820 its was reorganized as the "Academia das Artes," for instruction in painting, drawing, sculpture and engraving, but because of intrigues and internal dissensions was for many years in a lifeless and discredited condition. Some of the French artists were dead, others had returned home, and all remaining were discontented. The building occupied by the academy, which under D. Pedro I received the title of "Academia de Bellas Artes," was designed by the French architect Grandjean de Montigny, the central part of which was finished in 1831. It occupies the southern side of the block on which stands the National Treasury, facing a small semi-circular space at the head of Rua Leopoldina. The central facade is very much dwarfed by the height and length of the wings subsequently built and therefore fails to. - 84- give the impression which Grandjean sought to create. The academy contains some art collections of interest and value and is well worth a visit. The "Conservatorio de Musica," which has formed the fifth section in the Academy of Fine Arts since 1855, was created in.1841 for the purpose of giving free musical instruction. conservatory Temporary quarters were at first provided of Music 0n the ground floor of the Museum, but in 1863 the government resolved upon the construction of a special building near the Academy, which was begun that year at the corner of Ruas Leopoldina and Lampadosa (now Luiz de CamOes) and finished in 1872. The edifice was designed by an alumnus of the school of architecture and contains, besides the necessary class-rooms, a large concert hall on the first floor which is frequently used for concerts and school entertainments. The "Monte-Pio Geral," or annuity offices for public officials, is situated at the head of Rua Leopoldina, facing the Academy. Among the other public institutions of the city there are none requiring an extended notice, either on account of their character or of their edifices. The most noteworthy edifice among - 85 - these is the "Asylo da Mendicidade" on the Rua do Visconde de Itauna, facing the Mangue Beggar's canal, which presents a pleasing appear- Asyium ance fiom the street. It was built between 1876 and 1879 and is generally crowded with helpless mendicants of both sexes. The Necro- terio is situated on the Largo do Moura, near the arsenal of war. It was built in 1872 and is without exceptional interest. The supreme courts of the city occupy an unpretentious building, formerly a private residence, on Rua do Lavradio, corner of Rua da Relacao. The central police station is situated a few doors above on the same The Police street. The police service of the city is entrusted to a special body of regular troops called the "Corpb Militar de Policia," under the immediate command of a military officer, who himself is for the time being under the orders of a chief of police subordinate to the minister of justice. The chief of police is aided by three delegados who exercise semi-judicial functions, and a large number of sub-delegados who are required to attend all public gatherings and exercise direct supervision over the public in their own districts. The central barracks of the police force are situated on Rua do Evaristo da — 86 — Veiga. The "Casa de Correccao," or penitentiary, The is situated on Rua do Conde d'Eu. It Penitentiary covers a considerable area and is in every respect a model institution of the kind. A number of industries are carried on among the prisoners, all of whom are required to work. The system is modeled after that of Auburn, New York, and the discipline and hygienic conditions main tained are in every respect praiseworthy. Among the most important of the city's public works, though belonging to a private company, are the D. Pedro II Docks, in the Saude district. The quays have an extension of 288 yards, and have two covered piers with an D.Pedro 11 extension of 109 yards. The storehouses Docks are ]arge and substantially built. The company enjoys a monopoly in the matter of shipping coffee, though but a small part of this is done directly from pier to vessel. These docks were designed and built by a Brazilian civil engineer, Dr. Andre Reboucas, and were for some time directly under the administration of the custom house. SCHOOLS, CHURCHES AND CHARITIES. tN the matter of education Brazil is still very much behind. This is due to no under valuation of learning, nor to indifference as to its acquisition, but rather to the influences of a state church which seeks to control and restrict, to inherited traditions and prejudices which have turned the stream of personal charities toward hospitals and asylums instead of the foundation of schools, and also, perhaps, to the wide separation of Brazil from the intellectual centres of the world where deep and thorough education has found constant encouragement. Brazil possesses not one single university, nor one single college of a high class, nor one single professional or technical school of reputation and'i recognized standing outside ot the country. The endowment of such schools by private gift being unknown and the government being absorbed almost wholly in political affairs, their creation has been difficult, if not impossible. One of the earliest schools founded in the city was the "Real Academia Militar," which was created by a royal letter of D. Joao VI of 4th December, 1810. Schools of instruction had Military been created at earlier periods, but they school. were principally for drill purposes and offered no regular, systematic courses of study. The honor of founding the royal military school, which is to-day known as the " Escola Militar," belongs to the Conde de Linhares, to whom credit is due for much that was done in later colonial times for the material development of the country. The unfinished cathedral in the Largo de S., Francisco de Paula was at first destined for the new school and was used for that purpose from 1812 until 1874 when the courses of military science were separated from those of natural and physical science, and were transferred to the " Escola de Applicacao" which Statue of D. Pedro I. Avenue of Palms. - 89 - had been established at Praia Vermelha in 1855. A fortification had existed at this place since the year 1700, forthe defence-of the harbor entrance, and this was transferred to the school in 1856. After the withdrawal of military instruction from the academy in Largo de S. Francisco de Paula in 1874, the Escola Militar was reorganized, its buildings enlarged, and its courses of study ex tended. The buildings erected are spacious and are provided with infirmaries, gymnasium, stables, and all other accessories required in an institution • for military instruction. They are very unat tractive, however, and derive more interest from their location between the Pedra da Urea and Babylonia hills, on the supposed site of the first Portuguese settlement here, than from any arch itectural merit. The imperial naval schools are located in the marine arsenal and comprise the Escola da Marinha for the regularly enrolled cadets, and the Escola Naval for preparatory Nava( instruction. These schools attract less atten- Schooi tion, perhaps, than they deserve on account of their seclusion within the extensive grounds and industries of the arsenal, but they have graduated many excellent officers and certainly afford su perior opportunities for the study of many — oo — branches, such as naval and engine construction. which in other countries are generally classified as special courses after graduation. After the withdrawal of the courses of military science from the school in the Largo de S. Fran cisco de Paula in 1874 — which, after the reorgan ization of the Praia Vermelha and Rio Grande military schools in 1858, was known as the "Escola Central" — it was reorganized under the name of "Escola Polytechnica," and was devoted Polytechnic to higher instruction in the natural, phy- Schooi s;cai an(j mathematical sciences. Courses in all these branches had existed in the military school and degrees had been conferred in them on civilian students, the school, in fact, having been designed as much for civil as for military training. Their separation, however, was benefi cial for both classes, and the new Polytechnic and Military Schools immediately attained a higher rank and proficiency than had been pos sible under the old combination. The first director of the Polytechnic under the new organ ization was the Visconde do Rio Branco, who labored actively to promote its interests and perfect its facilities for instruction. Many and serious difficulties, however, have been encountered — 91 — and though the school has been most gener ously subventioned by the state and patronized by the public, the results have not yet reached that high plane occupied by similar institutions in Europe. Its faculty is large and well paid, but through political and personal influences it is largely composed of professors of insufficient training and of inferior rank as teachers. The curriculum comprises five courses of study, which in 1885 were attended by 209 students. The total annual subvention received from the state is a little over 300,000$, of which about two-thirds are for professors salaries. The edifice occupied by the school faces the Largo de S. Francisco de Paula and was originally intended for the city cathedral. After the foundations had been com pleted and the walls had risen a few feet, the resources of the undertaking failed entirely and the work was abandoned. It remained in this state for many years, until the government of D. Joao VI resolved in 18 10 to take possession of the partially completed edifice for a military academy. The edifice is quadrangular in form, substantially built, and occupies a whole block, but it is one of the plainest and most unattractive buildings in this city. It contains two floors — 92 — only, broken by a central court, though its lateral dimensions require a much greater height. The city of Rio de Janeiro possesses but one distinctively professional school, the "Faculdade de Medicina," which is located in some old build ings on Rua da Misericordia, just behind the Medical Misericordia Hospital. The present quar- Schooi ters of the school are insufficient and incon venient, but a new edifice is now under construc tion on the Praia da Saudade, Botafogo, which will soon meet all the requirements of this im portant institution. The school is well provided with library and laboratories, and enjoys special advantages for practical study in the wards of the Misericordia. The attendance in 1885 was 663 students, of which 529 were matriculated in med icine, 128 in pharmacy and 6 in dentistry. The profession of medicine is a popular one in Brazil, though the great majority of physicians remain in the large cities, many of them finally drift ing into politics and other occupations. There is a second medical school located in Bahia, and ¦ law schools are established in Sao Paulo and Pernambuco. The annual appropriations for the two medical schools amount to about 780,000$, and for the two law schools to about 250,000$. — 93 — The most important collegiate institution of the city is the "Collegio de Pedro II," which is a boys' school of the preparatory or academic grade. It was originally founded in 1735 as an asylum D.Pedro 11 f°r orphan boys who were destined for the college church, and was wholly supported by char itable donations. It was first known as the "Seminario de S. Pedro," as it was attached to the church of that name in Rua de S. Pedro, but was in 1758 removed to its present location by the church of S. Joaquim, after which it bore the name of that patron saint until its re-organiza tion in 1837. Since 1831 it had no longer' been used as a preparatory school for the church, and by its change of name and administration in 1837 it lost all resemblance to the charity school for orphans which had just completed a century of existence. Its courses of study are now opened to all and a day school [Externato) and a boarding school ( Internato ) are maintained. Provisions are made for the gratuitous matricula tion of 30 boarders, 15 half boarders, and an unspecified number of day pupils. The attend ance in 1885 comprised a total of 616 pupils, of which 445 were at the Externato and 171 at the Internato. The annual appropriation for the — 94 — two establishments is about 400,000$. The Externato of the school is situated on the Rua Larga de S. Jbaquim, next to the old church of that name (now unused), and has been for many years undergoing alterations and improvements in accordance with plans prepared by Bethencourt da Silva. The edifice contains two floors, with a large central court, and is both spacious and conveniently arranged. The Internato, or board ing school, is situated in a chacara on Rua de S. Francisco Xavier, but the building is old and in bad sanitary conditions, and is about to be reconstructed. The Escola Normal is an institution of re cent date and is temporarily established in the Escola Polytechnica. A new building for the school is to be erected at the corner of Ruas Invalidos and Relacao. It is open to both Normal sexes and will eventually assist greatly in School establishing a higher standard of teaching and in extending the primary school system of the country. The annual appropriation for this school is about 70,000$. By far the most pro gressive and useful school in the city is the Lyceu de Artes e Officios, a night school located on Rua da Guarda Velha, opposite the D. Pedro II — 95 — Theatre. This undertaking is due to the personal efforts of the architect F. J. Bethencourt da Silva Mechanics and was first inaugurated in 1858 in the Night School consistory of the Sacramento church, whence it passed to the abandoned church of S. Joaquim. In 1870 the government made a grant to the school of the buildings now occu pied, which had previously been used by the department of empire. In 1881 an annex for girls was opened. The Lyceu was designed to teach those branches necessary for the better education of mechanics and the development of mechanical and art industries. The teachers give their services and instruction is gratuitous. Pen manship, mathematics, mechanical and architec tural drawing, physics, chemistry, and other branches are taught, to which music is added for the girls. Many useful and valuable private don ations have been made to the school, and the legislature has since 1865 given an annual sub vention, which has been gradually increased from 3,000$ to a present appropriation of 70,000$. In 1885, there were 2,201 individuals, of both sexes, matriculated in its various courses, many of whom have shown marked aptitude for studies which would otherwise be beyond their reach. All - 96 - things considered, this is one of the most interest ing and successful schools of the kind which can be found in any country, and it is well worth an evening's visit. It is still under the direction of its philanthropic founder, Dr. Bethencourt da Silva. The city contains one episcopal seminary, called the "Seminario Episcopal de S. Jos6," which is located on the southern side of Castle Episcopal Hill, the entrance being from the Ladeira seminary fj0 Seminario. The seminary was founded in 1739, an(^ 's devoted exclusively to the educa tion of young men for the priesthood. Some of Brazil's most talented men of letters were educated in this seminary. Previous to 1870 the city possessed no public school buildings worthy of note. In that year the corner-stones of two new edifices were laid, Public largely as monuments commemorating the schools close of the Paraguayan war, but in some degree in obedience to an awakened spirit in behalf of public instruction. Five of these school edifices have been erected, viz. : the Glo ria school, situated on the Largo do Machado, built between 1870 and 1875, and frequently used for public conferences on literary and scien tific subjects ; the S. ]os6 school, situated on the — 97 — Largo Mae do Bispo, near the English Church, and built by the municipal council ; the Santa Rita school, situated on Rua da Harmonia in the Saude district, the largest, perhaps, of the five, but not so pleasantly located ; the S. Sebastiao school, situated on the Praca Onze de Junho ; and the Sant'Anna school, situated on the Praca d'Acclamacao. The primary schools of the city are irregularly located and defectively organ ized, the school houses being in great part old buildings once used for private residences. The great number of private schools in the city, a few of which take a high rank for efficiency, proves that the public school has not yet won its way into popular favor. The annual appro priation for the primary and secondary public schools of the city is about 560,000$. They are immediately under the supervision of an inspector- . general of primary and secondary instruction, who is an official under the minister of empire. The "Imperial Observatorio Astronomico" is situated on Castle Hill, overlooking the bay, city . . • , and harbor entrance, and is built on the Astronomical Observatory foundations of the new church edifice which the Jesuits had begun at the time of their expul sion in 1760. The Observatory was founded in - 98 - 1846, is well provided with instruments and is charged with the duties of announcing meridian time every day, regulating the chronometers of the marine and war departments, and publishing daily meteorological observations. The results thus far accomplished have not been great, but work has been begun on a chart of the southern heavens from which valuable observations are expected. The director and his assistants are now publishing a review in connection with the institution. The annual appropriation for its maintenance is about 63,000$. The geographical position is .Lat. 22" 54' 46" S., Long. 430 io' 21" W. Greenwich. Among the charitable educational institutions of the city, the following deserve special mention : the "Asylo Agricola," founded in 1869 in con nection with an experimental farm at the Bo tanical Garden, for the education of poor boys as charity practical agriculturists ; the "Instituto dos schools Surdos Mudos," No. 60 Rua das Laran geiras, for the education of the deaf and dumb; the "Instituto dus Meninos Cegos, " founded in 1854 and provisionally located on the southern side of the Praca da Acclamacao, for the educa tion of blind children. The corner-stone of an — 99 — extensive edifice for this institution, designed to accommodate 800 children of both sexes, was laid in 1872 on the Praia da Saudade, Botafogo, near the Hospicio de Pedro II, but is making slow progress toward completion. The agricul tural school at the Botanical Garden carries on some small industries, like plaiting straw hats, as a means for self support, but is indifferently assisted by the state. The real usefulness of the school is therefore very much restricted. The deaf and dumb asylum also supports two small industries — those of book-binding and shoe-mak ing. There are two notable orphan asylums in the city — the "Recolhimento das Orphas de Santa Thereza" on the Praia da Saudade, Botafogo, for girls, and the "Asylo dos Meninos Desvalidos," in Villa Isabel, for boys. Both are partially educational and partially industrial. There were 181 girls in the former and 237 boys in the latter at the close of 1885. There are but few- public libraries in the city, and even these are small and indifferently supported. There is a considerable collection of Libraries public documents and other publications connected with the Chamber of Deputies, and another in the marine arsenal called the — TOO — "Bibliotheca da Marinha." These libraries, in common with the Bibliotheca Nacional, enjoy the right of having a copy sent them of every book and periodical published in the country. A small library is also maintained by the munic ipal government, and special libraries are con nected with the Museu Nacional, Faculdade de Medicina, and other public institutions. The Instituto IJistorico possesses a small but very valuable collection of historical works, which are kept in the old Carmelite convent on Rua da Misericordia, opposite the old city palace. The most valuable public library in the city, after the National, is the "Bibliotheca Fluminense," which Fiuminense >s located in its own edifice, No. 62 Rua Library do Ouvidor. It is the property of a pri vate association, founded in 1847, and is designed for the use of shareholders and subscribers, but its reading room is open to the general public. It contains about 40,000 volumes, among which are good collections of manuscripts, historical and geographical works, and periodicals. The "Ga- Gabinete binete Portuguez da Leitura," a Portuguese Portuguez SOciety founded in 1837, maintains an excellent library and reading room at No. 12, Rua dos Benediclinos, which is reserved for the — 101 use of shareholders and subscribers, all national ities being eligible to the latter class. Its reading room is open to ' all literary men, journalists, teachers and public functionaries. The society is building a handsome new edifice on Rua de Luiz deCamoes, near the Polytechnic School, whose corner-stone was laid on June ioth, 1880, the tricentenary anniversary of the death of the Port uguese poet Luiz de CamOes. The facade is constructed of white Lisbon marble, elaborately carved, and will be one of the notable architectural works, as well as the finest library building, of the city. The small English colony of Rio de Janeiro also possesses an excellent collection of English British subscription books and periodicals, known as the Library "British Subscription Library," which is at present located at No. 1, Rua do Hospicio. It is restricted to the use of shareholders and sub scribers, and possesses many valuable, and in teresting works, but through insufficient support is not as pleasantly situated as could be wished. The "Germania" club, located at No. 77, Rua da Alfandega, also possesses a small but select library for the use of its members. The city contains a large number of churches and chapels, but none of them of exceptional — 102 — architectural merit. The oldest, edifice in exist- Churches ence *s that of the city's patron saint — S. Sebastiao — on Castle Hill, whose construction was begun in 1567 immediately after the. site of st. Sebastian ^e c'tv was changed from Villa Velha to this hill. The ashes of the city's founder, Estacio de Sa, rest within its walls. The church was largely reconstructed in 1861, after having suf fered serious damage in a great storm of that year. It was used for many years as the cathedral church. The "Capella Imperial," at the corner of Ruas Primeiro de Marco and Sete de Setembro, is the imperial cathedral church of the city. Its construc- chapei tion was begun in 1761, on the site of an old hermitage, by the the Carmelites who had already established a monastery near by. The church was selected for a royal chapel by D. Joao VI, who had covered bridges over the street erected between the palace, monastery and church for the convenience of the royal family. Exten sive improvements were made in the building both by D. Joao VI and D. Pedro I, the facade being completely rebuilt by the latter. At the same time that this church was selected as the royal chapel (June 18th, 1808), it was chosen as the cathedral of 1I12 episcopal see of Rio de — 103 — Janeiro, the churches of S. Sebastiao, Cruz and Rosario having previously been occupied for that purpose during a period of 123 years. The exterior of the edifice is not attractive, but its interior arrangements, altar pieces, and a few specimens of paintings executed early in the cen tury, are objects of interest. The principal churches of the city have been in great part erected by lay brotherhoods, or confraternities, some of whom have become very wealthy and enjoy considerable revenues from rentals and investments. These brotherhoods are Brotherhoods essentially religious in character but are largely occupied in beneficent works, the maintenance of churches, hospitals, asylums and cemeteries, and the care of members in illness and their burial in death. They are supported ' by membership fees, .by alms, legacies and dona tions, by lotteries and special taxes granted them by the state for charitable uses. Some of the finest churches and hospital buildings in the city have been built by them, and several churches are supported almost wholly through their boun ties. They are generally known as '-irmandades" (brotherhoods) and " ordens terceiras" (third orders), and are required to attend public religious — 104 — processions and to perform various services in connection with the churches to which they are attached. One of the oldest as well as one of the richest 'brotherhoods in the city is the "Ordem Terceira de Nossa Senhora do Carmo," whose church stands closely beside the Imperial Chapel. ,.,„„,„ The exterior of this church — which is called uarmo _.j . the "Igreja do Carmo" — presents a much finer appearance than its more distinguished neigh bor, and is considered to be finished and decorated in better taste. Its corner-stone was laid in 1755 and the edifice, except its two towers, was com pleted in 1770. The towers were not completed until 1849 and 1850. 'There are several works of art in low relief within the church and some fine specimens of stone carving within the church and at the entrances, which enjoy a high reputa-' tion. A little farther up on the opposite side of the street, at the corner of Rua do Ouvidor, is the "Igreja da Cruz dos Militares, " the facade of which is generally considered to be the finest and Cruz dos most attractive among all the church edifices Militares m the city. It is under the direction of the "Irmandade da Santa Cruz dos Militares," a brotherhood composed exclusively of military — 105 — men. It occupies the site of one of the small forts (Santa Cruz) of early colonial times, and was built upon the ruins of an old chapel. Its corner stone was laid in 1780, and its first mass was celebrated in 181 1. It possesses memorial tablets to many of the most prominent military men of Brazil. The 'Hrmandade" was founded in 1623. A few yards in the rear of'this church, Lapados on R-ua do Ouvidor, stands the "Igreja da Mercadores La pa dos Mercadores" whose attractive entrance and chime of bells — the first one in Rio — are frequent objects of curious inquiry. The edifice was begun in 1750 and finished in 1766, the brotherhood in charge of its construc tion having been organized in 1748 among the shopkeepers of the vicinity. In 1870-72 the building was largely reconstructed and a new tower of Lisbon marble was erected for its chime of bells. The largest and finest church edifice in the city is the "Igreja da Candelaria, " which faces upon Rua da Candelaria, between Rua do Gen eral Camara and Rua de S. Pedro.. This great candelaria edifice covers the greater part of the block and extends back to Rua da Quitanda. Its two towers and graceful dome rise high — 106 — above all the surrounding buildings and are the most conspicuous objects within the city. The dome is built of Lisbon marble and the cross which surmounts it is some eight feet higher than the culminating point of Castle Hill. On the balustrade encircling it are statues of Religion, the four Evangelists, and the three Virtues. The corner-stone of this great temple was laid on 6th June, 1775, but its exterior walls were not completed until 1878, though a small part was made ready in 181 1 for religious worship. The interior work, which is of costly Italian and Rus sian marbles, is still uncompleted, and it will probably be several years yet before the finishing touches to the elaborate decorations are given. The church is cruciform in shape, but suffers much from its crowded surroundings, the narrow streets and adjacent buildings preventing an appreciative view of its great dimensions. It is calculated that the total cost of this great church will con siderably exceed 3,000,000$. The brotherhood to which it belongs is the "Irmandade do Santis- simo Sacramento da Candelaria," one ofthe most active and influential in the city. The view of the city from the tower, or dome, of this church is the best obtainable. — 107 — The most popular, and one of the best situated churches in the city is that of S. Fran cisco de Paula, facing the square of the same name. The edifice is without any special arch itectural distinction, but the ample dimensions of its facade with its two high towers and its great s. Francisco entrance elevated several feet above the de Paula street level, as seen from the open square, are not without dignity and beauty. Its interior is spacious and elaborately ornamented. This church is also shut in by contiguous buildings, those on the left belonging to the hospital main tained by the Franciscan "Ordem Terceira dos Mininos," or, as more popularly known, the "Ordem Terceira de S. Francisco de Paula." Its corner-stone was laid in 1759, a"d the main part ot the edifice was completed in 1801, but the two towers and other ornamental parts of the building were not completed for many years after that date. The present interior dec orations were executed between 1856 and 1865. The hospital was begun in 1814 and was opened in 1828. It is reserved exclusively forthe poorer members of the order, and occupies the greater part of the upper floor facing on the Travessa de S. Francisco de Paula. Between the hospital — 108 — and church is an open court and garden for convalescents, while a large garden lies behind the church on Rua Sete de Setembro. The Franciscans originally buried the members of their order in vaults beneath the church, accord ing to the common practice then in most ofthe churches ofthe city. In 1805-6 they built mural catacombs just behind the church which were used until 1849, when they obtained permission to establish a cemetery at Catumby, then outside the city limits— the first of this character in Rio de Janeiro. This cemetery was nearly ready for use when the yellow-fever epidemic of 1850 broke out, and, in compliance with requests from the authorities, it was speedily completed for the unexpected and extraordinary demands of the afflicted city. The Franciscans possess one of the richest and most charitable confraternities of the city, and their church is perhaps more frequently used than any other for great religious cere monies. The oldest lay brotherhood in the city is the "Ordem Terceira de S. Francisco da Penitencia," of the older branch of Franciscans, whose church is situated on the northern side of S. Antonio Hill and whose hospital faces the Largo da — 109 — Carioca jusl below. The brotherhood was found- s. Francisco e(1 in J622, but did not undertake the da Penitencia construction of a church until the year 1700. Through controversies wilh the Franciscan friars of the neighboring convent, and a schism in the brotherhood, the church was not comple ted until 1772. The church is small and unat tractive, but was at one time much celebrated for the elegance of its decorations. The approach to this church is by a broad flight of st£>ne steps, terminating in a terrace from which a pleasing view of the city can be obtained. The hospital built by the brotherhood was begun in 1748 and opened in 1763. It has three floors, the upper two of which only are used for hospital purposes. The grounds are tastefully laid out, and, with the entrance, are profusely ornamented with statuary. The brotherhood possesses much valuable prop erty in the city, which is largely used for charitable purposes. The church is falling into decay. The large churches of Sacramento, opposite the Treasury, and S. Jose, on Rua da Misericor dia, near the Chamber of Deputies, are without noteworthy characteristics. The Sacramento Sacramento church was begun in 1 8i 6 and was com pleted in 1859, vv-ith the exception of its two — I 10 — towers which were not finished until 1871 and 1875. The most active coadjutor in the con struction of this church was the chief cook of D. Joao VI, who solicited alms in the street every day and even bargained with the fidalgos at Santa Cruz for gifts to the church in exchange for appetizing stews of his own preparation. The building is solidly constructed, and its expres sionless facade is somewhat relieved by statuary. Its brotherhood possesses considerable property and holds much more in trust for charitable purposes. The S. Jose church was built between 1808 and 1842 on the site of a chapel erected st. Joseph there about the middle of the seventeenth century. Its brotherhood is one of the oldest in Rio de Janeiro. The edifice, whose construction is largely due to lottery drawings, is plain and pos sesses no feature of note, either in its architecture or in its decoration. In one of its towers is an excellent chime of bells, and its organ is reputed the best in the city. One of the most peculiar churches in the city is that of S. Pedro, on the corner of Rua dos Ourives and Rua de S. Pedro. It is small, circular in form and is surmounted by st. Peter two towers and a dome. It was begun in 1733 and finished during that decade. It was — Ill — built by the "Irmandade de S. Pedro dos Cle- rigos," a clerical brotherhood devoted to mutual assistance and charitable work. Perhaps the most widely known church in the city, as it certainly is one of the most popular, Gioria is the "Igreja da Gloria do Outeiro," corn et the Hin monly called the "Gloria church," situated on the Gloria Hill, overlooking the bay, and seen by all inward and outward-bound vessels. Its commanding position and graceful outlines never fail to attract the attention of strangers. The church is octagonal in form, small, and very solidly constructed. A large terrace has been preserved in front, from which a fine view of the bay and shipping can be obtained. The interior is plain and, with the exception of a painting by Taunav, executed in 1827 in commemoration of the preservation of the first Emperor's life in a fall Irom his horse in 1823, is without any notable works of art. The edifice was begun in 17 14, but the date of its completion, which was within the next twenty-five years, is not known. The church has always been favored by the members of the imperial family and- is a favorite place for wedding ceremonies. The fete day of the church is August 15th, which is one ofthe most elaborate 112 and popular of its kind. The brotherhood owns considerable property in houses and government bonds, and includes the members of the imperial family in its membership. The official "Igreja Gloria da Gloria," however, is the parish church situated on the Largo do Machado, at the entrance to Larangeiras. This is a large edifice of modern construction (1843 to 1872), modeled after the classic Madeleine of Paris, but surmounted by a modern spire of the ugliest description, and finished within with all the gilded bad taste of which modern church decorators are capable. The position of this church, however, is an admirable one, facing a public garden whose central avenue of palms forms a natural entrance, and flanked by little gardens on both sides. There is one more church in the city which 'merits a brief description, the "Igreja do Rosario,'' situated on the street and little square of the same name. This is the second largest church in the city and was for some seventy years the cathedral of the episcopal see of Rio de Janeiro. Rosario It was built by the "Irmandade do Rosario e S. Benedicto," a confraternity of blacks, its corner-stone being laid in 1708. It was invaded by the episcopal chapter in 1737. in spite of — "3 — protests and appeals, and was the first church visited by D. Joao VI on his arrival in Brazil. After the removal of the chapter to the Carmelite chapel, near the old city palace, in 1808, the blacks remained in undisputed possession of their church. Great abuses were formerly practised in the burial of the dead in this church, the bodies being laid so near the surface that/according to Walsh, "it was impossible at one time to walk up or down, without tripping over heads or toes sticking out of the ground." For many years past this church has been undergoing repairs. The Protestant churches of the city are few in number, and unpretentious in appearance. Protestant The oldest of these is the English church churches 0n Rua de Evaristo da Veiga, facing the S. Jos6 School. It is the first Protestant church edifice erected in South America, and was built under the provisions ofthe treaty of 1810, which stipulated that it should have the exterior appear ance of a private house and should not use bells. e el' h The original cost was met by a duty of one-half per cent, on all British merchandise imported into Brazil, two-thirds of which went to the British consulate and the remaining third to pious and charitable purposes, in which the — ii4 — chapel was included. It was dedicated to St. George, the patron saint of England and in honor of the prince regent, and to St. John the Baptist, as a compliment to the Portuguese sovereign D. Joao VI. Its corner-stone was laid August 12th, 1819, and the edifice was completed in about three years. It is officially known as Christ Church, and, though formerly enjoying a subsidy for its partial support from the British government, is now wholly dependent upon local revenues for its maintenance. The edifice stands some yards back from the street and is enclosed within a high iron puling. The German Evan gelical church is located on Rua dos Invalidos. German No. 69, and is small and very plain in appearance. It was built in 1844-45, the society having been founded in 1837. The church of the American Presbyterian mission is situated at the head of Rua do Club Gymnastico Presbyterian (formerly Travessa da Barreira), and is a plain substantial structure of roughly- dressed, irregularly-pointed granite, set well back from the street within its own grounds, and partially concealed by the buildings owned and occupied by the mission. It has seating capacity for about 600 persons. The mission was initiated — ns — in 1859, its first church society in 1862, and the construction of its present place of worship in 1863. The society is largely composed of natives and its services are conducted in Portuguese. The oldest of the existing missions is that known Portuguese as the "Igreja Evangelica Fluminense," which was founded in this city in 1858 By Dr. R. R. Kalley, a Scotch physician, and is now composed almost exclusively of Portuguese and Brazilians. The church edifice is situated on Rua de S. Joaquim, No. 175, is very plain in appearance and presents none of the ordinary characteristics of a church. It was begun in 1885, and was finished in the following year at a cost of 70,000$. A school is maintained in connection with the church. The earliest attempt at mission work in this city was Methodist by the American Methodist Episcopal church in 1835, which was abandoned in 1842. In 1872 the southern branch of the same denomina tion inaugurated another mission here which has resulted in the organization of two prosperous societies for regular services in English and Portuguese, the building of a very handsome church edifice, and the creation of a first-class girls' school at No. 69, Rua das Larangeiras, on a property where the Jesuits established an Indian — 116 — mission in 1724. The church is situated at No. 7, Largo do Cattete and, though small, is the most at tractive and best specimen of church architecture in the city. It is built of dressed granite at a total cost of 107,000$, has a seating capacity of about 400, and is located well within its own grounds. The construction of the small chapel was begun in 1 88 1 and was ready for use the following year ; the main edifice was begun in 1885 and was opened for public worship on September 5th, 1886. The American Baptist Society also pos- Baptist sesses a mission in the city at No. 120, Rua do Conde d'Eu, which was established in 1884, but has not yet erected a church. The monasteries and convents of the city belong to a period long since brought to a close, Monasteries an^ are now nean*v without Occupants, and convents n0 new members having been permitted since 1861. Founded almost contemporaneously with the city and enjoying exceptional favors from the crown and people, they obtained some of the finest sites for their habitations and received grants of lands which have since become very valuable. The oldest and most influential of these institutions is the "Mosteiro de S. Bento," situated on a hill of the same name at the foot — 117 — of Rua i° de Marco and just behind the marine Benedictine arsenal. This monastery was founded in 1590 by the Benedictine friars Pedro Ferraz and Joao Porcalho. The site is a commanding one and has more than once been occupied for military purposes. It was fortified in 171 1 to resist the Duguay-Trouin invasion and suffered considerably during the bombardment of the city from Ilha das Cobras. The buildings are heavy and irregular in appearance and are without any special attractions beyond some old carvings in the chapel. The order possesses considerable property in the city and several estates outside, the best known of which is a large plantation on Ilha do Governador. The annual income from these properties is very large, and will soon revert to the state, as there are but few monks remaining.' The Benedictines have always enjoyed a high reputation for learning and for charitable works. They once possessed a fine library of some 14,000 volumes, principally theological, but about half of these disappeared during the agitations for independence. A free school has been maintained by the order since 1858. The "Convento de S. Antonio," of the Franciscans, situated on the hill of the same name, was founded in this city in — us — 1606, but the construction ofthe existing convent Franciscan and chapel was not begun until 1608, and finished in 161 5. The site, like that on S. Bento, is commanding and enjoys an exten sive view of the bay and city. The buildings are large and will accommodate more than a hun dred friars, but are irregular in design and unat tractive in appearance. The Franciscans have been chiefly distinguished for their learning, some of the most eminent preachers of Rio de Janeiro having belonged to that order. Some members of the imperial family and some of the most eminent men of colonial times were buried in its cloisters. The convent is now occupied for military barracks. The "Convento do Carmo," now a part of the old palace, was founded in 1590 and the existing buildings were begun and Carmelite completed early in the next century. Gross irregularities and violent dissensions after wards broke out in the convent and the order was nearly broken up by the king and bishop toward the end of the eighteenth century. The Carmelites were permitted to reorganize in 1800, but through the enmity of the bishop they were unable to maintain the establishment. When, therefore, the arrival of the royal family in 1808 made it — 119 — necessary to provide additional room for their accommodation, the old Carmelite convent was taken over by the state and the few friars re maining found an asylum in the abandoned Lapa do Desterro seminary, on the Largo da Lapa. The old convent is a large, unattractive structure, wholly without architectural preten sions, and devoid of any objects of interest within. Its interior arrangements were changed some what after its transfer to the state. It was for a time the residence of Queen Maria I, and is now used for various offices connected with the imperial household. The Instituto Historico oc cupies a suite of rooms on its second floor. The present quarters of the Carmelites, who have become the richest order in Brazil, is a rambling , „ „ . series of old buildings at one side and Lapa convent ° in the rear of the Lapa church. The order possesses some seventy odd houses in the city, besides several cultivated plantations in the country, all of which will soon revert to the state as there are but three or four friars now living. This order has also been distinguished for many eminent preachers and literary men, one of whom, Frei Pedro de Santa Marianna, was the Emperor's preceptor for many years. 120 There are but two convents for nuns in the Nunneries c'ty> the "Convento da Ajuda" and the "Convento de Santa Thereza." The Ajuda convent is situated on a street of the same name at the corner of Rua do Passeio, and occupies a whole block with the exception of a small corner Ajuda donated for the S. Jose' School. It belongs to an order of Franciscan nuns, and was founded about 1675. The corner-stone of the present convent was laid in 1745, the principal part of which was completed in four years. The build ings are extensive, but appear never to have been finished as originally designed, the walls in places having been left in an unfinished state. They cover a very large area, and an extensive enclosed garden lies immediately behind, part of which was recently cut off by the opening of a new street (Rua Senador Dantas). The general aspect of the convent is decidedly ugly, and its ap pearance is more that of a great penitentiary than a voluntary abode of religious devotees. There now remain but two of these alive. The mother and sister of the Emperor — Dona Maria Leopol dina and Dona Paula Marianna — were burled in the chapel of this convent, as also the first-born child — a daughter — of the Princess Imperial, 121 Dona Isabel. The Santa Thereza convent oc cupies a commanding site on the eastern side of Santa Thereza Hill, overlooking the lower bay, Santa Thereza harbor entrance and a part of the city. It belongs to an order of Carmelite nuns, and was founded by a devotee named Jacintha in 1742, who induced a relative to purchase a cha cara on this site to which she and her sister retired. The corner-stone of the present convent was laid in 1750, but it was not until 1781 that the recluses were permitted to take the veil of Santa Thereza. This convent was permitted to receive only 21 nuns, 18 of the black veil, and three of the white. The last admission was in December, 1861, and there now remain only 8 or 9 living. There are probably but few cities, if any, in the world better provided with hospitals than the city of Rio de Janeiro. The benefactions of the rich are almost exclusively restricted to the purely Hospitals religious charities, almsgiving, brotherhoods, churches, hospitals and asylums. The brother hoods of the city have been the recipients of valuable bequests, and are therefore enabled to give away large sums in alms and to support excellent hospitals and asylums. Chief among — 122 — these is the "Irmandade da Santa Misericordia," in whose hands have been placed the principal charitable offices of the state. The brotherhood Misericordia was founded in 1 591, a few years after the creation of a ' hospital, it is said, through the efforts of the celebrated Jesuit, Padre Jose de Anchieta. Exceptional favors were granted from the very outset, such as exemption from parochial administration, exemption from house taxes, and the products of various special taxes. To this was afterwards added, by papal bull, the privilege of receiving the reversion of all unfulfilled legacies, and then, by the state, the products of three or four annual lotteries and various port taxes. The Santa Casa, as the corporation is popularly called, owns houses and lands in every part of the city and its annual income from all sources amounts to nearly 1,000,000$. In return for these great favors the Santa Casa maintains its great hospital on the Praia de Santa Luzia, three branch hospitals, the Pedro II insane asylum and two orphan asylums in Botafogo, a foundlings hospital, two large cemeteries, and an exclusive monopoly of all the burials made in the city, except those of British subjects. The first hos pital built faced on the Largo da Misericordia. — 123 — It was badly constructed, badly ventilated and drained, and had the old burial ground of the city just behind it, facing the beach and harbor entrance. Its accommodations became totally inadequate early in the present century, and in 1838 the provedor, or director, determined to move the cemetery to the Ponta do Cajd and build a new hospital on its site. This was at once carried into effect, and on July 2nd, 1840, was laid the corner-stone of the present edifice, whose construction consumed some thirty odd years and cost nearly 3,500,000$. The edifice forms a rectangular parallelogram and was built in the classic style after the designs of Domingos Mon- teiro. It covers an area of 9,782.8 square metres, and contains 25 wards with 32 beds each, private rooms for patients, operating room, pharmacy, baths, reception rooms, offices, private apart ments for officers and nurses, kitchen, store rooms, etc. The total capacity of the hospital is 1,200 patients, and it receives from twelve to fourteen thousand a year. Attending physicians are provided by the medical school which oc cupies the old hospital building on the Largo da Misericordia. The seamen from the vessels in port and the poor of the city are received and — I24 — treated gratuitously, but provisions are-made for the reception of patients who are able to pay for private rooms and special attendance. The internal supervision ofthe hospital is in the hands of the Sisters of Charity. The Santa Casa main tains three branch hospitals within the city, the principal, of which is the Gamboa hospital, dedicated to Nossa Senhora da Saude, where all Gamboa contagious and epidemic diseases are treated. or saude This hospital was formerly a private residence, and was purchased by the Santa Casa in 1866 for 79,288$. The other two hospitals are the S. Joao Baptista, on Rua da Passagem, Botafogo, and Nossa Senhora do Soccorro, S. Christovao, near the cemetery. The insane asylum, known as the Hospicio de Pedro II, is an imposing Pedro 11 edifice situated on the Praia da Saudade, asylum Botafogo, built in the classic style after designs prepared by Domingos Monteiro, and destined for the gratuitous treatment of patients of both sexes. It covers an area of 7,560 square metres, has accommodations for 360 patients and cost about 2,700,000$. The corner-stone of this edifice was laid on September 3rd, 1842, and it was formally inaugurated in December, 1852. The grounds attached to the asylum are extensive — 125 — and several light industries are maintained for the occupation of certain classes of patients. In the founder's room are two notable statues by the sculptor Pettrich, one of the Emperor D. Pedro II and the other of Jose Clemente Pereira, the indefatigable provedor of the Santa Casa under whose administration both hospital and asylum were built. In addition to these the Misericordia maintains a Foundlings Hospital at No. 72, Rua Foundlings l'e Evaristo da Veiga, where some 200 hospital abandoned infants are received every year. The great majority of these are received through the medium of a "wheel" in the wall, which facilitates the secret abandonment of infants. This institution has a patrimony of about 300, -i 000$ in apolices, besides some real estate, and an annual income from all sources of nearly 230,- 000$. Formerly its administration was so bad and its recourses so limited that only a very small percentage of the infants lived ; now the mortality is not so great, that for 1886 being a trifle over 53 per cent. The exposure of infants was formerly much more common than now, the first Emperor stating in a speech from the throne in 1823 that 12,000 foundlings had been received at the hospital in 13 years, of 'which only 1,000 had — 126 — survived. Provisions are made for the education of the foundlings, the boys being finally sent to learn trades and the girls to the orphan asylum from which they are married to worthy young men. The Santa Casa gives each bride a small marriage portion, ranging from 300$ for the foundlings to 800$ and 1,000$ for the orphans. The two asylums for orphan girls, maintained by Orphan girls £he Santa Casa, are located on the Praia da asylums Saudade, Botafogo. The Recolhimento das Orphas provides for the support and education of orphan girls of legitimate parentage. It possesses a considerable patrimony in houses and govern ment bonds, and is having a large building erected for its use near the Pedro II asylum. The Reco lhimento de Santa Thereza is designed for the reception of those who can not be received by the other asylum. The number of orphan girls in these two asylums at the end of 1886 was 183. There are two hospitals maintained by the military departments of the state, the Hospital Militar on Castle Hill, in the old Jesuit's college, Miiitary and the Hospital de Marinha on Ilha das hospitals Cobras. There is also a hospital for con valescents at Andarahy Grande which is attached to the military hospital. These two institutions — 127 receive about 6,000 patients a year. They are located in old buildings and are not in all respects in satisfactory conditions. The yellow fever hos pital of the port is not located within the limits of the city, but on the opposite side of the harbor Jurujuba at the head of Jurujuba bay. It is officially hospital known as the "Hospital Maritimo de Santa Isabel," and receives all yellow fever cases from the shipping and many from the poorer quarters of the city in times of epidemic. A steam launch, fitted up for the conveyence of patients, is the only means of communication, except by a long circuitous journey along the eastern shore of the bay. The leper's hospital of the city is known as Leper's the "Imperial Hospital dos Lazaros," and is hospital situated on a small hill in S. Christovao, overlooking the bay, in a building erected and once occupied by the Jesuits. The hospital was founded in 1765, and its administration confided to the Santissimo Sacramento da Candelaria brotherhood, which had 'already undertaken to provide a private asylum for lepers. The site is pleasant and healthful, and, with the exception of its proximity to the thickly settled districts of the city, is in every way well adapted for its purpose. There are some 60 patients in the hospital at — 128 — present, which is about all that it can conveniently accommodate. There are a considerable number of private hospitals in the city maintained by societies and Private physicians. Several of the religious brother- hospitals hoods maintain private hospitals and asy lums for the use of their own members, the custom being to receive only male patients at the hospital wards, the female members of their families being treated and nursed at their own homes. The most prominent of these are the Monte do Carmo hospital (Carmelite) at No. 23, Rua do Riachuelo, the S. Francisco de Paula, near the public square of that name, and S. Francisco da Penitencia, Largo da Carioca, (both Franciscan), and the "Hospital da Benefi- Portuguese cencia -Portugueza," at No. 24, Rua de Santo hospital Amaro, belonging to a Portuguese benefi cent society. The latter is established in a quiet, pleasant street and in a large edifice of recent construction, which enjoys a high reputation for its sanitary arrangements and good administra tion. A public clinic for the gratuitous treat ment ofthe poor, called the "Policlinica Geral," has been established at No. 1, Rua dos Ourives since 1882. The edifice was built for an asylum — 129 — under the designation of "Recolhimento de Free Nossa Senhora do Parto" in 1787 and was clinics once noted as a kind of semi-prison where jealous husbands had their wives and daughters kept under lock and key when absent from the city. The building is now occupied by the Poli- clinica, the central vaccinating offices, the general directory of public instruction and the public archives. There are seven cemeteries in the city, two of which are public and five private. The old Public cemetery was situated on the Praia de Santa cemeteries Luzia where the Misericordia Hospital now stands, but was removed to the Praia de S. Chris tovao, near the Ponta do Caju, in 1839. This new cemetery, known as the "Cemeterio de S. Francisco Xavier," is public and is the largest in the city. It is under the administration of the Misericordia, and possesses an unconsec'rated plot of ground for Protestant foreigners. The S. Joao Baptista cemetery in Botafogo is also public and under the control of the Misericordia. Its entrance is at the head of Rua de S. Joao Baptista. p . The S. Francisco de Paula cemetery is cemeteries located at the base of Santos Rodrigues Hill, Catumby, and is the oldest one now in existence. — 13° — It belongs to the S. Francisco de Paula brother hood. The S. Francisco da Penitencia and Carmo brotherhoods possess two private ceme teries on the Praia de S. Christovao, near the public cemetery, and the S. Pedro brotherhood possesses one within the walls of the S. Francisco Xavier. The British Burial Ground is located Bt,itish on the eastern slope of a hill facing the Burial Ground Gamb6a, and is the only Protestant ceme tery in the city. The land was ceded to the British government by D. Joao VI in 1815 together with privileges which are still enjoyed by the subjects of the British crown and not permit ted to any other foreign nationality. The site is a picturesque one and has more than once elicit ed words of sincere admiration from those who have visited this tiny piece of consecrated British ground in a foreign clime. The pressure of commerce and population upon it during recent years has led to proposals for its removal to some place more distant from the crowded city, but no decision to that effect has yet been reached. THEATRES, AMUSEMENTS AND HOLIDAYS. „or so large a city and for a population so irfond of diversion, it must be confessed that Rio de Janeiro possesses very few places of amusement worthy of note. The bay is large and full of picturesque islands, the sea beaches are beautiful and accessible, and a score of places in the mountains full of charming views are within easy reach, yet not one of them possesses a public pleasure resort. In the earlier history of the city the numerous church holidays, with their pageants and illuminations, gave ample opportun ities for public diversions. The populace was not a rich one,' the petitions of the church for contributions were incessant, and the numerous — 132 — church festivals and public processions were full of spectacular effects and novel amusements, in consequence of which there was little incentive for the erection of theatres and the creation of suburban pleasure resorts. Of the old church festivals there now remain but very few of a Church festivals generally popular, character. The principal of these are St. Sebastian's day, January 20th, when the city is partially illuminated and salutes are fired in honor ofthe city's patron saint, the three days of Carnival, celebrated with elaborate processions, balls and public masquerading, Corpus Christi day which is observed with interesting religious processions, the Gloria festival on August 15th, the Penha festival on one of the Sundays in October at a little church on the top of a conical hill some miles out of the city, to the north, which brings together a large number of pilgrims and visitors, and the S. Roque festival on the island of Paqueta in the month ot August. The principal political independence day holiday of the year is on September 7th, the anniversary of the declaration of independence. It is generally celebrated with salutes, decorations, illuminations and a court reception at the city palace. The bull-fight so universal and popular in Spanish countries never Buii-fights secured much of a footing in Brazil. An old bull-ring is still to be seen to the right of Rua Marquez d'Abrantes, Botafogo, and a more modern one to the left of Rua de Senador Vergueiro, near the Morro da Viuva, Botafogo, but they have not been used for some years. There was never anything savage and exciting in the bull-fights of. Rio de Janeiro, owing to the tameness ofthe bulls and the precautions taken to prevent their doing any mischief by tipping their horns with buttons, or cutting them down. The police restrictions are now so great that bull fights are practically prohibited. There are three race-courses in or near the city : the "Prado Fluminense" ofthe Jockey Club, in the suburb of S. Francisco Xavier, which may be reached by the D. Pedro II railway or the Villa Isabel tramway, the "Prado Villa Isabel" in the suburb of that name, and the course of the Derby Club on Rua S. Francisco' Xavier, both reached by the Villa Isabel tramway. Races occur over these courses on Sundays and holidays throughout the greater part of the year. Of late years regattas have been held on Botafogo and S. Christovao bays, which always attract large crowds of people. — 134 — Open-air concerts are occasionally given in the Jardim da Acclamacao on Sunday evenings, and at the Passeio Publico nearly every evening. The first theatre of the city was built by a priest in Rua da Opera but almost no record of it remains. It was burned in 1747. A bassoon- Theatres player in a Portuguese regiment stationed in Brazil, named Manoel Luiz, then obtained permission from the viceroy, Marquez de Lavradio, to build a new theatre near the vice-regal palace, which continued to be the first and most popular place of amusement down to the time of D. Joao VI. The most popular pieces of the day were represented upon its stage under the protec tion of the viceroys, but its doors were closed to strangers. The theatre was built on the Largo da Assembled, facing the palace, and is now occupied by the steward's offices (almoxarife) of the imperial household. After the arrival of D. Joao VI and Rio de Janeiro had become a capital city, it was felt that a larger theatre should be built. The hair-dresser of the viceroy D. Fernando thereupon obtained permission to con struct a new edifice, which was done on the site now occupied by the S. Pedro d'AIcantara theatre. A great scandal was connected with the — i3S — construction of this edifice, the builder taking stone's from the new cathedral, then under construction s. Pedro on the square now known as Largo d'Aicantara rje s. Francisco de Paula, for the walls of his theatre. The new building was called the "Theatro de S. Joao" and was formally opened on October 12th, 1813. The halls and terrace of this theatre were the scene of many of the principal historical events of that period. Its terrace was the scene of Prince D. Pedro's an nouncement to a turbulent gathering of citizens and soldiers on February 26th, 1821, that the king D. Joao VI had sanctioned the constitution adopted by the Portuguese C6rtes, and it was in the imperial box on September 15th that the Prince first showed himself after the declaration of September 7th, 1822, wearing upon his left arm the legend '•independencia on morte'.''1 On March 25th, 1824, during a representation in honor of the oath to maintain the constitution of the empjre, which D. Pedro I had that day taken, the theatre took fire and was totally consumed, the people believing it to be a judg ment on the sacrilegious use of stones from the projected cathedral. A temporary structure was at once put up for theatrical representations while — 136 — the theatre was being rebuilt, which was construct ed on the same site. It was called the "Imperial Theatro de S. Pedro d'Alcantara" and was formally opened January 22nd, 1826. On September 28th, 1831, a disturbance was created in the theatre by two military officers which led to a conflict between the people and municipal police, resulting in three persons killed and several wounded. The theatre was again totally consumed by fire on August 9 th, 1851, and a third time on January 26th, 1856. The edifice was again rebuilt and opened to the public on January 3rd, 1857. It is by far the most solidly constructed and imposing theatre in the city and, though second in seating capacity, presents the best interior arrangements and appearance. It will seat about 1400 spectators. The building faces the Praca da Constituicao, and occupies the greater part of a whole block. The "Imperial Theatro D. Pedro II" is situated on the Rua da Guarda Velha, . near the D.Pedro 11 Typographia Nacional, and is the present opera house of the city. Just before the third burning of the S. Pedro d'Alcantara, the government erected a provisional edifice on the Campo d'Acclamacao for Italian opera, which — 137 — was in use from 1851 until 1875, and introduced to the people of this city such celebrities as Rossi, Salvini, Ristori, Tamberlik, Thalberg and Gottschalk. It was then demolished, but the state still owns an extensive site on the same square and has already raised a considerable am ount of money for the construction of a great national theatre, to which is to be attached a dis tinctively national school for the education of actors and the encouragement of the drama. The Pedro II is a rambling, lightly constructed building, originally built and for years used as a circus, utterly destitute of architectural design, and without any communication with the street except on one side, but it has by far the largest and best auditorium in the city. It was in augurated in 1871, but its whole front has been recently reconstructed and ornamented, its en trances, lobby and staircases enlarged, and the whole interior freshly decorated. The seating capacity is about 2,000. The high character of the performances given and its central location insure for this theatre the best audiences in the city, particularly during the brief winter season of Italian opera. The opera does not now receive a state subsidy and is therefore much inferior — i38 -- to what it was in former years. It is, however, still liberally patronized by the public, not withstanding the high prices of admission and the inferior character of the representations. In addition to the foregoing there are eight small and medium-sized theatres in the city, viz: the "S. Luiz" and "Gymnasio Dramatico," other theatres on the Rua do Theatro, facing the Polytechnic School, which are no longer used and are now devoted to other purposes, the "Sant'Anna," "Lucinda" and "Recreio Drama tico" on Rua do Espirito Santo, near the Praca da Constituicao, the "Principe Imperial" on the Praca da Constituicao, the "Phenix Dramatica" on Rua da Ajuda, and the "Polytheama Fluminense," or Circus, on Rua do Lavradio. All these, with the exception of the first two, are garden theatres, and are very lightly built. They are admirably suited to the climate, as also to the light character of the entertainments given in them. There is very little of the genuine drama placed upon the stage in Rio de Janeiro, the light vaudeville and opera bouffe being preferred. Musical concerts are generally well patronized, and the opera has always been highly popular with the Brazilian public. All admission prices, however, are high, — 139 — ranging from i$ooo entrance and 3$ooo for a ist-class chair in the small theatres, to 2$ooo entrance and io$oooto i5$ooo for a ist-class chair at the opera. The number of private musical and social clubs in the city is very large, many of which are Societies accustomed to give public entertainments. and ciubs The hest known of these is a stock as sociation called the "Novo Cassino Fluminense," whose fine assembly rooms are situated on the Rua do Passeio, next to the National Library, and whose annual balls are considered to be the most elegant and exclusive of their kind. The great ball-room of this society is reputed to be the best in Soutli America. The society, however, is now falling into decay and its balls are rarely given, probably through the increasing number of suburban and musical societies. Its assembly rooms are frequently used for fashionable con certs, balls and bazars, for which purposes they are admirably adapted. The Club Beethoven, occupying a fine building on the Caes da Gloria, is devoted to music and social intercourse. It maintains a stringed quartette, and gives fort nightly concerts for its members and an annual concert for the public. This is at present the ¦ — 140 — most popular club in the city. It was founded in 1882, possesses a large membership, is pro vided with billiard, card and reading rooms and has recently established a first-class restaurant for the use of members. Admission to its private concerts may be obtained through any member, while members of the diplomatic corps and foreign naval officeis are invited to frequent the club-rooms at pleasure. The Club Germania is a German society located at No. 77, Rua da Alfan- dega, with assembly and reading rooms and a fine library of "some 8,000 volumes. It was founded in 1821, has a limited membership and is devoted exclusively to the interests of its mem bers. It is esteemed as the best club in Rio de Janeiro and its memberships are highly prized. The Club das Larangeiras, located at No. 21, Largo do Machado, is a social organization for both sexes and promotes frequent assemblies for music, dancing and social converse. Other clubs of a similar character are maintained in Botafogo, Engenho Velho, S. Christovao and other districts of the city. There are 37 subordinate Masonic lodges in the city, the Grand Lodge, called the "Grande Oriente do Brazil," being located at Rua do Lavradio, No. 83. The three principal Carnival — hi — societies are the "Tenentes do Diabo," "Demo- craticos" and "Fenianos," each with a large membership and extensive club-rooms. They give elaborate balls at intervals during the year, and organize the burlesque processions of Car nival. In addition' to these there are innumerable small societies and clubs in every part of the city, the majority of which maintain some sort of a musical organization, generally very bad, and give balls at frequent intervals. The French, German and Portuguese also maintain gymnastic associa tions of considerable local prominence, and the English a Cricket Club whose field is located on Rua Paysandu, Larangeiras, just in front of the Palacio Isabel. There is no English club in the city, nor any open public reading room. Cafes are to be found everywhere, especially in the central part of the city, the best of which are on or near the Ouvidor. They are very largely patronized by all classes and at all hours of the day. Black coffee, in small cups, is distinctively the national beverage, and certainly its excellence and cheap ness (generally 60 reis a cup) fully entitle it Hotels t0 that distinction. The hotels of Rio de, Janeiro are in great part mere restaurants and the majority of them are not suitable places for — 142 -*-- ladies and children. There are several small family hotels at short distances from the central district to which travellers may go with all con fidence, and there are some excellent restaurants of good reputation near the passenger landings, but it will be wise for strangers to make inquirie? before taking any risks. It may be explained, in .1 few words, that these restaurant-hotels and the theatres are frequented by the demi-monde, and that immoral practices are permitted at these places and in the public streets which are pain fully objectionable to people of refined sensibil ities. IN AND ABOUT THE CITY. Smhe city and suburbs of Rio de Janeiro are t^Aamply supplied with tramway lines, nearly all running from points on or near the Rua do Ouvidor. as a common centre, to all the suburbs and principal places of interest. Few cities are better supplied with tramways, and equally few, perhaps, where the difficulties of creating a Tramway thoroughly convenient system are greater. communication The configuration of the land upon which Rio de Janeiro is built has in great meas ure compelled the building of these lines so as to radiate from a common centre, while at the same time obstructing cross communication between their suburban extensions, thus frequently com pelling long rides into the city, or to some central — 144 — point, in order to pass from one locality to an other close at hand. The widely separated suburbs of the city have also compelled the build ing of very long lines, nearly three hours of continuous riding, with but one break, being required to pass between the two greatest extremes. The tram cars are generally open on all sides and are provided with cross seats for three and four persons which are entered at the side. They are popularly known as "bonds," the name arising from the waggish confounding of the tickets issued by the first tramway company in 1868 with the bonds of the first internal loan issued in the same year. They were first called "-vaccas de leite" (milch cows) because of the bells on the mules, but in time the term "bonds" proved the more popular and persistent. Mules are ex clusively used on all the lines, being considered better suited to the climate and the service. They are small, docile, hardy and travel well, and are even preferred for general carriage service. The privileges held by the companies are from the imperial and municipal governments for specified terms, and provide, with but two exceptions, that their property and franchises shall ultimately revert to the municipality. ua do Imperador, Petropolis. — H5 — The five principal tramway lines of the city are the Botanical Garden (Jardim Botanico), . S. Christovao, Carris Urbanos, Villa Isabel and Santa Thereza. An "inclined plane," called the "Piano Inclinado," gives access to Santa Thereza Tramway Hill, and practically forms apart ofthe last- lmes named line. The Corcovado is ascended by a railway built on the Riggenbach system, whose initial station is on the Larangeiras branch of the Botanical Garden tramway. In addition to these there are three suburban lines : the Villa Guarany, which starts from the Praia Formosa and serves a newly built-up district between that point and S. Christovao ; the Cachamby, which connects with the D. Pedro II railway at Engenho Novo and serves a small suburban district ; and the Jacarepagua, which runs from the D. Pedro II station of Cascadura to the village of that name. The Dom Pedro II railway also runs frequent suburban trains and thus., contributes largely to facilitate communication between the city and its suburbs. On the bay there are frequent ferry boats from the Praca D. Pedro II across to Praia Grande and S. Domingos, the two ferry landings of Nictheroy, and daily boats to Paquetd and the Cantagallo railway station of Sant'Anna. — 146 — The central districts of the city are served by the narrow-gauge lines of the Carris Urbanos company whose principal starting points are at CalTis the Ferry landing, the "Carceller" near the Urbanos Carmo church on Rua i.° de Marco, the Largo de S. Francisco de Paula, Rua da Uru- guayana corner of Rua do Ouvidor, and the Largo da Lapa. From the Ferry landing, lines run to the Saude and Gamboa district, connecting with the Petropolis boat at the Prainha, to the D. Pedro II railway station, to the S. Diogo station, and to the Praca 1 1 de Junho. From the Carceller, the lines run to the Praia Formosa, S. Diogo, Praca 1 1 de Junho and the Piano In- clinado (Santa Thereza) via the Lapa. Three lines start from the Largo S. Francisco de Paula : one to Praia Formosa, one to the Piano Inclinado and one to the Largo da Lapa. Two lines start from the Ouvidor (Rua da Uruguayana): one to the marine arsenal and the other to the D. Pedro II station. At the Lapa, tram-cars may be taken for the Largo de S. Francisco de Paula, the Piano Inclinado, the Senate and D. Pedro II station, the Ferry landing and Carceller. These lines are very convenient for short trips through the central districts of the city, for the theatres, — i47 — railway station, public gardens and squares, and a majority of the public buildings. The usual fare is too reis. The Botanical Garden line serves to connect the city with the suburban districts of the Cattete, Larangeiras, Botafogo, Copacabana, Lagoa and Botanical Gavea. Much of this part of the city is Garden comparatively modern and the streets and residences are more pleasing to the eye. The city terminus is in Rua de Goncalves Dias, cor ner of Rua do Ouvidor, where tram-cars may be taken for all the points served by this company. The closed cars run only to the Largo do Ma chado, the fare being the half rate of 100 reis. The others may be described as follows, the color indicated being that of the dashboard and head light : Larangeiras, yellow, serving the whole district of that name and connecting wilh -the Corcovado railway ; Botafogo, red, runs to the head of Rua dos Voluntarios da Patria, o*n Bota fogo bay ; S. Clemente and Largo dos Leoes, red and green, run to the Largo dos Leoes station at the foot of the Corcovado ; and the Gavea, green, serving the distant suburb of that name and passing the entrance to the Botanical Garden. This line is the oldest tramway in South America — 148 — and was built by an American company which owned and managed it until 1882. Its first section was opened to traffic in 1868. The S. Christovao lines communicate with several of the most distant suburbs to the north and west, extending from the city terminus at the Largo de S. Francisco de Paula to Anda- s. christovao. rahy, where the diligence is taken for Tijuca, on one side, and to the Ponta do Cajti and ihe public cemetery, on the other. Each car carries the name of the district or street to which it runs on the lamp box over the driver's head. The main lines run to Rio Com- prido, Fabrica das Chitas, Tijuca, S. Christovao, Ponta do Caju, Catumby, and several other places of no great interest to travellers. All the cars pass the Praca da Acclamacao and D. Pedro II railway station, the S. Christovao and Cajii cars pass the, entrance to the palace grounds, the S. Januaifo cars run to the Pedregulho reservoirs, and the Tijuca line runs a special "express" car every day for the accommodation of business men which leaves the Largo de S. Francisco de Paula at 4:20 p.m. The Villa Isabel lines communicate with the new suburb of Villa Isabel to the west and at — 149 — the base of the Tijuca mountains, where some villa Isabel &ne new streets and public gardens have been opened, and with intermediate points of Engenho Novo, Andarahy, etc. The company runs special cars on all Sundays and holidays to accommodate the passenger traffic to the race courses of S. Francisco Xavier and Villa Isabel. The terminal station in the city is in Rua da Uruguayana, corner of ihe Rua do Ouvidor. The Santa Thereza line starts from the head of the Piano Inclinado and extends to the new reservoir on the aqueduct road. The streets are steep and crooked and the line is not every- Santa Thereza where in good condition, but the hillsides are picturesque and the views extensive and surpassingly beautiful. The cars on the Piano Inclinado run every half hour from 6 a.m. until 12:30 a.m., except at the morning and evening hours of greatest travel when they run at intervals of fifteen minutes. The tramway fares of these lines vary so greatly that it is difficult to indicate them briefly. On the Carris Urbanos lines the customary fare is Tramway fares IO° reis> though some of the short trips are made for half that rate. The Botan ical Garden fares (open cars) are 200 reis to — 15° — Larangeiras and Botafogo, 300 reis to Largo dos Leoes, and 400 reis to the Garden and Gavea end ofthe road. The S. Christovao company charges 100 reis to the railway station and for all short trips, while the longer trips vary from 200 to 400 reis. The Villa Isabel rate's are 50, 100, 200 and 300 reis according to the distance. The Santa Thereza rates are 100 and 200 reis, the latter including the Piano Inclinado. For these and all other small expenditures, the stranger should provide himself with Brazilian currency at some ex change office as it will save both trouble and expense. EXCURSIONS. For the convenience of strangers who have but a short time to spend in Rio de Janeiro, the following outlines of short excursion trips will be found useful. They do not cover all the points of interest, as it is impossible to bring them all into the few excursions which every visitor feels compelled to take, but they will, perhaps, aid those who have but a few hours to spare and no time to learn where to go and -what to see. For all strangers, whether they land at the Caes dos Mineiros (near the marine arsenal) or — i5i — the Caes das Marinhas (near the market) , the D. Pedro II square will be taken as the first place starting point to be visited and a common starting point. The view of the bay and shipping from the quays fronting this square, its historic sur roundings, the public buildings facing upon it — all give it an interest of prime importance to •d. Pedro 11 every curious visitor. Grouped together square jn one corner are the old City Palace, formerly the viceroy's residence, the Chamber of Deputies, formerly the city's jail and municipal hall, the new Department of Agriculture building, the oldest theatre in the city (not now used),- arid the S. Jose' church ; facing the next corner are the Carmo church and Imperial chapel, with the old Carmo convent connected with the latter and the palace by bridges over the streets ; while upon its northern side is the city market to which every stranger should make at least one visit. The Ferry slips are at the south-eastern corner of this square, and there also is one of the terminal sta tions of the Carris Urbanos tramway system. Another station, called the "Carceller," is near the north-western corner of the same square, just beyond the Carmo church. — 152 — The Praija da Acclamar^So and Passeio Publico. After having seen the D. Pedro II square (see pp. 58 and 65) the hurried traveller may get a fair idea of the city, two of its best public gardens and a few of its public buildings by taking the following route, all of which may be done within two hours. A Carris Urbanos tram-car, marked "-Hospicir r S. Diogo" (over the driver's head), may be taken either at ihe Ferry or Carceller station. Passing up Rua i° de Marco (formerly Rua Direita) the first object of interest is the Cruz dos Militares church, standing on the corner of the Rua do Ouvidor. A short distance beyond is the Postoffice and Caixa da Amortizacao (redemption bureau), (p. 76) and beyond that the unfinished Exchange. The English Bank of Rio de Janeiro is opposite the farther wing of this last-named building. The car turns into the narrow Rua do Hospicio, Banks Just in front °I the Postoffice. To the right on the first street (Candelaria) is the fine edifice occupied by the Bank of Brazil, the size and orna mentation of which can not be appreciated be cause of the narrowness of the street. The London — iS3 — and Brazilian Bank also opens on Rua da Can delaria just beyond, and on the next block stands the great Candelaria church, the largest and finest church edifice in Brazil. The next noteworthy building is the Sacramento church, standing on the corner of Rua do Hospicio and Rua do Sacramento, facing the latter. Almost directly in front of this church, on Rua do Sacramento, is the National Treasury, the facade of which can be seen from the car. At the next street crossing the rear walls of the Treasury can be seen, just beyond which is the side entrance to the Academy of Fine Arts. Directly in front of Rua do Hospicio is the eastern entrance to the Jardim da Accla macao, as the enclosed part of the old Campo de Acciamapao Sant'Anna is now called. The visitor may enter the garden here, or continue on to the D. Pedro II railway station at the opposite right hand corner, passing the new City Hall, the Sant'Anna school, and the military barracks on the northern side of the square. After visit ing the garden, which it will be surprising to know is a creation of the last ten years, (see p. 61 ) another tram-car of the same company, marked ' 'Lapa," may be taken immediately at the western — 154 — entrance. Directly in front of this entrance, on the corner of Rua de Areal, is the Senate build ing, and then a little further on the pillared front of the Mint. The car returns around the northern end of the square, passing the D. Pedro II station and the barracks. It then passes through a very uninteresting quarter until Rua do Lavradio is reached, on which faces the Masonic Hall and central police station. The residences on this street were once considered among the most aristocratic of the city. Turning "into Rua Aqueduct dos Arcos the visitor soon finds himself arches passing under the famous old Carioca aqueduct which crosses from Santa Thereza to S. Antonio Hill on a double series of stone arches (see p. 55). A few yards beyond these arches is the Largo da Lapa, where the car stops. Facing this square is the old Lapa church and convent of the Carmelites, on the hillside above Lapa is the Santa Thereza nunnery of the same order, and to the left the National Library, Cassino and Department of Justice. A couple of minutes walk down Rua do Passeio takes the visitor to Passeio Publico the entrance to the Passeio Publico, which is the most attractive as well as the oldest public garden in Rio de Janeiro (p. 62). — i55 — From the Passeio Publico the visitor may return by one of two routes, either by the Praca da Constituicao and Largo de S. Francisco de Paula, walking down through Rua do Ouvidor, or along the water front to the Misericordia Hospital and the Ferry landing. For the first a tram-car, marked "S. Francisco," should be taken at the Lapa station, which passes again under the aqueduct and through Rua do Lavradio to the Praca da Constituicao. A glimpse of the equestrian statue of D. Pedro I may be had through the northern entrance to this garden. Opposite the north-eastern corner of this square is the S. Pedro de Alcantara theatre, while on and near the southern side are four smaller garden theatres. A short distance beyond this square the tramway passes the rear walls of the gardens attached to the church, and hospital of S. Francisco de Paula (p. 107), then into the quiet side street on which the hospital faces, and then into the busy little square of the same name. Francisco The entrance to the Ouvidor is just to de Paula the right of the place where the car stops; directly opposite to it, on the further side of a small garden, is the square low facade of the Polytechnic School ; to the left the imposing - r56 -^ entrance and towers of the S. Francisco de Paula church; and to the right, beyond the garden, the city station of the S. Christovao tramway lines. The little central garden is not well kept, but it possesses one object of interest — the statue of Jose Bonifacio de Andrade e Silva, the real author of Brazilian independence. The walk down through the Ouvidor can be accomplished in less than ten minutes. Should the second route be preferred, a small tram-car, marked' "Barcas Ferry" ox "Lapa e Carceller," may be taken at the Passeio Publico entrance. From these cars a side view of the great Ajuda nunnery, with its grated windows and massive walls, may be obtained, and also a partial view of its entrances on Rua da Ajuda. Little can be seen of the great Misericordia Hos- pital from che street, beyond its long front and a glimpse of its elegant entrance hall. Nothing Misericordia 'ess than a special visit can give one an adequate idea of the magnitude and com pleteness of this great institution. At its eastern end are to be seen the several buildings belong ing to the School of Medicine, some of which were parts ofthe old hospital (p. 122). To the right of these are the buildings ofthe military arsenal. — i57 — The Morgue stands in a small open space just -beyond and is considered to be one of the architectural masterpieces of the city. The only remaining public building of note before reach ing the D. Pedro II square is the new savings bank and annuity institution on the left, which extends through to and faces upon ' Rua D. Manoel. Santa Thereza and the old Aqueduct. Another short but very interesting trip, which can be accomplished comfortably inside of three hours, is that over the Santa Thereza tramway to the new .reservoir. A Carris Urbanos tram-car may be taken at the Carceller, marked "Lapa e Riachuelo" or at me Largo de S. Francisco de Paula, marked "Riachuelo," both of which run to the Piano Inclinado — the first by way of the Misericordia, Passeio Publico, Lapa and under the old aqueduct; the other by way of the Praca da Constituicao and Rua dos Invalidos. At the Inclined Plane station, tickets must be purchased (200 reis) which pay for the ride up the hillside inclined anc^ over the tramway to its terminus. The Plane cars on the inclined plane run every half hour (starting on the exact hour and half hour), - 158 - except for a short period in the morning and evening when they are run on fifteen minute in tervals to accommodate the increased traffic. The cars are drawn up the hillside by means of a station ary engine and a wire cable passing around a hori zontal drum and attached to a descending car. The fotal length of this inclined plane is 1683 feet (513 m), and the grade varies from 0.14 to 0.16. There are three viaducts, two ol iron and one of wood, the upper one being at a considerable height, particularly on the eastern side where the hill slopes sharply into a narrow valley. The view on this side is very picturesque. This road was opened to traffic in 1877. At the top, the traveller enters a tram-car drawn by four-mules which carries him around sharp curves and up Santa steep grades until the greatest elevation is Thereza reached at the Hotel Vista Alegre. Nearly up to this point the hill is thickly settled, the houses in places appearing to be terraced one above the other. This has long been a favorite place for residences, especially with foreigners. From the Hotel to the reservoir the tramway follows the old aqueduct road, the hill rising abruptly on the left and descending sharply on the right, leaving but few places on which -residences can be built. — 159 — The old Carioca aqueduct (p. 53) runs at the side of the road nearly the whole distance. The views out over the city and upper bay, the Tijuca mountains on the left, the open country beyond Villa Isabel and Engenho Novo, and the distant Tingua' mountains whence comes the new water supply, are indescribably beautiful. It is a scene that never wearies the eye and never fails to develop new objects of interest. It is lovely in the full light of day, and lovelier at the hour of evening when the glow of sunset is still on the distant mountain tops, the shadows are gathering in the valleys below and the lamplights are just beginning to glow over the broad expanse be tween. The most favorable place for these views is the terrace at the new reservoir, at the end of the tramway. This reservoir has no connection with the old aqueduct, but is fed from the new Rio do Ouro system. If the visitor is pressed for time, he can return direct to the city over the same route after a delay of fifteen minutes at the reservoir. At the lower station of the inclined plane he should take a tram-car marked "S. Francisco," or "Lapa e Carceller" according to the place he wishes to go. If not, a charming walk can be had by — 160 — following the old aqueduct into the Larangeiras The Aqueduct va-Hey until the first road, to the left is Road encountered, which leads down through Rua do Cosme Velho to the Larangeiras branch of the Botanical Garden tramway, or by following the aqueduct still further to its head, just beyond which is a steep path down to the same means of communication. The narrow ridge where the aqueduct crosses into the Larangeiras valley affords some very pleasing views; on one side toward Tijuca and the upper city, on the other down through a winding valley to the harbor entrance. This ridge is now being pierced by a tunnel to open communication between Laran geiras and the opposite valley and suburb of Rio Comprido. The distances to be walked before reaching the tram-cars is from two to three miles, according to the route chosen, and the time required to reach the Rua do Ouvidor over the tramway is about thirty-five minutes. It should be observed, however, that this extra excursion is not included in the three hours specified, as another hour will be required to complete it comfortably and with time for enjoying the picturesque views at every turn of the road. — 161 — The Botanical Garden. Few travellers, perhaps, ever enter the port of Rio de Janeiro who have not heard of the Botanical Garden and its famous avenue of royal palms. It is generally the first place inquired about and visited, and deservedly so, as some of the most pleasing impressions are derived, not only in the Garden itself, but also on the way thither. The Botanical Garden lies about seven miles from the Rua de Goncalves Dias starting point (corner of Rua do Ouvidor) of the Botan ical Garden tramway line, and the time re quired to make the journey, each way, is about one hour. Care should be taken to enter a tram-car with a green dashboard marked "Jardim Botanico," as the others do not go that far. The first place of interest is the small square called the "Largo da Carioca," which takes its name from the mountains from which the old aqueduct derives its water supply. The reservoir stands on the southern side of the square and was once a centre of bustling activity, a great part of the city's population sending there for water. The present system of house distribution has greatly modified the character and importance of this — 102 — locality. The large building on the western side of the square is the hospital of the S. Francisco da Penitencia brotherhood, (p. 109), their old church standing just beyond and above it. The heavy, irregular buildings ot the S. Antonio monastery are beyond the church, the paved entrance to which is immediately behind the res ervoir. The monastery has recently passed into the possession of the state, and is now used as barracks for regular troops. Immediately beyond the reservoir is an interesting group of public buildings : the National Printing Office (p. 78) and D. . Pedro II theatre on the right, and the Lyceo de Artes e Officios (p. 95) (Lyceum of Arts and Trades), on the left. The tramway here divides, the right-hand track passing into a new street opened through the grounds of the Ajuda convent. The rear view of the old con vent is far from agreeable. The car, however, takes the left hand track through the narrow Rua da Guarda Velha (so named because of the guard stationed there in colonial times to preserve order at the Carioca reservoir) into the small Largo da Mae do Bispo. The mother of the first native bishop (Castello Branco — 1774 to 1802) lived in a house facing on this square, and hence its - 163 - peculiar name — Mother of the Bishop. A small bronze fountain stands in its centre. On the left is a steeply-graded street leading to the episcopal seminary, the observatory, the church of St. Sebastian and other places of interest on Castle Hill. Immediately on the right, facing on Rua de Evaristo da Veiga, is the English church (p. 113) which stands somewhat back from the street. The most prominent building on the square is the S. Jose School, which stands within a semi-circular iron fence inclosing a small garden. Beyond the school, on the right, are the massive, ugly walls of the Ajuda nunnery (p. 120) within which two or three recluses still stand between the state and one of the most desirable properties in the city. The tramway here turns to the right into the wide Rua do Passeio, upon which faces that gem of public gardens — the Passeio Publico. Only a glimpse of its central lawn and shady paths can be obtained from the street. Opposite, its entrance is the street leading up to the Marrecas fountain, which was formerly called "Rua de Bellas-Noites" (fine nights) because Viceroy Luiz de Vasconcel los used to pass through it on moonlit evenings to spend an hour or so in the garden. On this — 1 64 — corner is a large building said to have been designed by the famous architect Grandjean. On the next block are the Department of Justice edifice, the Cassino and National Library (p. 79), standing side by side. Entering the Largo da L Lapa, the Lapa church and Carmelite con vent (p. 119) are to be seen to the left, the famous arches of the Carioca aqueduct and the new Freitas Hotel to the right and the Santa Thereza nunnery on the brow of the hill in front. A large handsome bronze fountain of the new water works occupies the centre of this little square. A short distance beyond the square, the street becomes higher and is open on the left, affording a charming view of the lower bay and Gloria harbor entrance. Immediately in front is the Gloria Hill, covered with residences and crowned by its pretty octagonal church (p. m). At its foot, on the left, is an untidy public garden, behind which is a large square edifice, built for a market but used as a tenement house for the poor. It is said to shelter about a thousand people. The first large building on the right is occupied by the popular editor-in-chief of the Gazeta de Noticias, Dr. Ferreira de Araujo, and by the Beethoven Club. - i6s - A few yards further on, and fronting the market, is the Foreign Office. This locality is known as the Largo da Gloria, beyond which the street is called the Rua do Cattete. At the beginning of this street, to the right, stands a private resi dence which never fails to attract attention. It is a large building of but one floor, Italian in style, and has two small square open courts at each end with spiral stairs leading to the en trances, and within which are two marble ball players who appear to be tossing the ball over the house. There are extensive gardens to the rear. The place was built by a rich capitalist of the city and is known as the "Palacete Cornelio." The hospital of the Portuguese beneficent society faces on the next street to the right. The next noteworthy private residence is the Palacete of Barao de Nova Friburgo, a large handsome residence facing on the Largo do Valdetaro, as the open space in front of it is called. This is the finest and richest private res idence in the city. It is built of stone and marble imported from Lisbon, and is richly adorned with carvings, paintings and statuary. It was erected by the late Barao de Nova Friburgo, and now belongs to his two sons, the Viscondes — t66 — de S. Clemente and Nova Friburgo. At the pretty little public garden which next claims atten tion, and which is still popularly known by its Largo do °'d title of "Largo do Machado" (its Machado new official designation is Praca Duque de Caxias), the tramway divides, the Larangeiras branch taking the street to the right. The stee ple and entrance of the Gloria (parish) church can be seen through the trees ol the garden. Two blocks beyond the Largo do Machado the tramway divides at a small square called the Largo Largo do c'° Cattete, to reunite again on the Praia cattete je Botafogo. A few steps to the right of this square is the new Methodist church. ..It would be difficult, perhaps, to find a more picturesque street in the world than the semi circular Praia de Botafogo' with its attractive resi dences on one side and the quiet lake-like bay on Botafogo the olher, its encircling hills and mountain peaks, its palms and avenues of the brilliant flowering flamboyant. To the left, as the travel ler emerges upon the scene, is the round-topped Botafogo Morro da Viuva, crowned with a reser- Bay voir, and beyond, at the harbor entrance, the ever picturesque Sugar-Loaf. A military barrack nestles at its base on the outside, — 167 — approachable only by water; and in the gap to the right, between the Pedra da Urea and the Morro de Babylonia, is the military school and Praia Vermelha fortifications, built upon the site of the first Portuguese settlement of Villa Velha. Facing upon the beach, beginning at the military school, are the Pedro II insane asylum and the unfinished edifices of the institute for the blind and the medical school. There are many note worthy private residences along the Praia de Botafogo, beginning with that of the Barao de Cattete (erected by the Marquez d'Abrantes) where the traveller first enters it, and ending with that of Mr. Andrew Steele, one of Rio's oldest and most respected foreign merchants, where the tram-car leaves the bay at Rua dos Voluntarios da Patria. The tramway now fol lows a long straight street, bordered with hand some modern residences and gardens. To the right is the Corcovado and its buttresses of mountain spurs ; to the left, the short, low, mountainous range running parallel with the coast. A short distance beyond the tramway company's stables at the Largo dos LeSes the street passes through a narrow gap and emerges upon the shore of a pretty little lake of brackish — 1 68 — water, called the Lagoa de Rodrigo de Freitas, Lake Rodrigo which is separated from the Atlantic by de Freitas a narrow bank of sand through which the overflow of the lake frequently cuts a passage to the sea. Directly in front is seen the distant, square-topped Gavea, to the right the mountains of Tijuca, to the left the "Dois Irmaos", as the twin peaks facing the sea are called. Just beyond the lake, at the base ot the nearest mountains, may be seen the spreading tops of the famous avenue of palms. To the right, as the street begins to follow the shore of the lake, are the attractive, though unfinished grounds of Com. Antonio Martins Lage, laid out in terrapes and winding paths on the hillside, and ornamented with the choicest of palms and other tropical trees and shrubs. Several interesting old country houses are still to be seen along this street, and on the right as the traveller nears the Garden -may be seen the tall chimney of the new Carioca cotton factory whose humming wheels break harshly in upon the long years of peaceful quiet which have characterized this distant suburb of the imperial capital. A few yards further on and the entrance to the Botanical Garden is reached, opening di recti v upon the famous avenue of palms itself. — 169 — The garden lies at the base of a spur of the Serra da Carioca, which extends to ihe sea shore, and forms a part of an experimental farm ("fazenda normal") and agricultural school supported by the state. Neither of these institutions are in a sufficiently flourishing condition to merit atten- Botanicai tion. The Botanical Garden had its origin Garden jn 1808 in the creation of a small garden by the director of a gunpowder factory established there in that year. In the following year some exotic plants and seeds were given to this garden, andin 1819 it was formally attached to the royal museum and its administration was made a charge upon the royal treasury. The "Instituto Fluminense de Agricultura'' (agricultural society) was not created until i860, since when the garden has been under its administration, the government contributing a small subvention of 48,000$ per annum for the garden, school and experimental farm under its charge. The prin cipal distinguishing feature of this really beau tiful place is its celebrated avenue of royal palms, the equal of which does not exist in any part of the world. The avenue begins at the principal entrance and extends nearly across the grounds, with two short side avenues at the beginning. — 170 — A pretty fountain stands within it at about the central point of the garden, from which side avenues branch out each way. On the northern side is a shady avenue of old mango trees (mangueiras) whose dense foliage, interlocking branches and gnarled trunks afford a pleasant relief from the straight lines and smooth columns of the royal palms. On the left of the garden and well back to the rear is a fine grove of bamboos which is a favorite resort for picnic parties. In this shady retreat it is always cool and quiet, and no one can visit it without taking away the pleasantest of impressions — and some times an unpleasant reminder in the shape of a bite (usually on the hand) from a small fly, called the borrachudo, which causes a very irritating wound. The principal part of the cultivation of rare and exotic plants is carried on in this locality, where can be found some of the choicest and most interesting varieties of palms and bamboos. The director's residence is on the southern side near the buildings occupied for school and industrial purposes. Travellers visit ing the Botanical Garden should provide them selves with lunch and not trust to the uncertain resources of the neighborhood. — 171 — The tram-cars of the Botanical Garden com pany pass the gate every 20 minutes and afford easy and quick communication with the city. Beyond the garden they traverse streets of suburban residences nearly to the foot of the mountain ; and beyond that a fine road winds gracefully up the mountain side to a breezy gap called the "Alto da Boa Vista," overlooking the The great valley of the Gavea from whose level Gavea ,jses the 'massive weather-beaten face of the table-topped Gavea, 2,575 feet above the sea. The long line of sea beach looks like a ribbon of gleaming white in the distance, while the Gavea road lies against the green mountain. side and winds about the base of the great rock itself like a broken thread. It is a view well worth going so far to see, but it requires too much time for the great majority of travellers. Another charming walk in the neighborhood is from the first corner beyond the garden, which takes one out to the sea beach and thence up a zig-zag road to a fine sea view outside the Dois Irmaos ; and still another follows Rua D. Castorina, just before reaching the entrance to the garden, and leads one up the mountain side to the famous "Chinese view." — 172 — The return from the Botanical Garden gives the reverse view of many points of interest, the most curious of which is that of the Sugar Loaf as seen through the gap beyond the lake. Between Botafogo and the Largo do Cattete the tram-car may return through a different street, and at the Passeio Publico it will turn into a new street — Rua Senador Dantas — which has been cut through the grounds of the Ajuda nunnery, rejoining the main line in front of the D. Pedro II theatre. Larangeiras and the Corcovado. Formerly an excursion to the summit of the Corcovado was rarely ever attempted by hurried visitors because of the time and fatigue involved. An excellent road, however, was constructed many years ago from a point on the aqueduct road, near the Mae d'Agua reservoir, which ascended in The gentle curves and grades to the gap called old road paineiras, and the walk or ride to this point was both pleasant and easy. From this place the greater part of the ascent was steep and fatiguing. This old road has been rightly considered as affording one of the most picturesque and pleasant — 173 — pedestrian excursions in the neighborhood of the city, especially when approached by the romantic aqueduct road from Santa Thereza. With easy grades, overlapping forest trees, and bewildering glimpses of mountains, city and bay, it possessed a charm which no one could ex perience without arousing feelings of keenest pleasure and satisfaction. Such an excursion, to be made leisurely and comfortably, required not less than eight or ten hours. Since 1885, how ever, a railway of the Riggenbach system has been in operation to a point very near the summit, by means of which the trip can be accomplished in about four hours from the city. To visit the Corcovado the visitor should take a "Larangeiras" tram-car [yellow) of the Botanical Garden Co. He will pass over the same track described in the preceding excursion as far as the Largo do Machado. The tram-car will here turn to the right, passing by the Gloria church, and ascend the picturesque and widely- known Larangeiras valley, the favorite residence Larangeiras of foreigners and wealthy Brazilians. The valley is narrow and a small stream — called the Rio Carioca, or Rio das Larangeiras— -runs beside the street for the greater part of the distance. — 174 — The gardens and grounds along this street— the Rua das Larangeiras — are generally well culti vated and are filled with the choicest of foliage and flowering plants. At No. 60, on the right, is the deaf and dumb asylum, and at No. 69 is the entrance to the new seminary for girls estab lished by the Methodist Episcopal Church (South) of the United States. The palace of the Princess Imperial D. Isabel is situated in this suburb, to the left at the head of Rua Guanabara. At No. 153, on the left, may be seen the Allianca cotton factory. A short distance beyond is the Cosme Velho station of the Corcovado railway, where the traveller leaves the level tramway for a Corcovado three-rail track which climbs the mountain railway s;je in grades of 25 to 30 per cent. The locomotive, which weighs 13 tons, possesses a central cog-wheel which runs upon the central cog-rail, thus carrying the train steadily along with scarcely more danger than is experienced in the faster travelling over level tracks. The total extension of the road is a little over 2}^ miles (3,790 metres), the altitude of its Cosme Velho station 121 feet (37 metres) and that of its cul minating station 2,198 feet (670 metres), making an actual ascent of 2,077 feet, or very nearly 1 — 175 — in 6. A little above the starting point the train passes over the Sylvestre viaduct, an iron structure of three spans of 82 feet each ; then across the picturesque aqueduct road, with the Mae d'Agua reservoir to the right in a shady notch in the hill side ; and then steadily up to the station of Paineiras, located in a gap or small plateau, Paineiras x>525 feet above the sea, from whence the first view of the Atlantic is to be obtained. The track crosses the old road several times up to this point. A hotel and restaurant have been estab lished at this place by the company for the accommodation of travellers, and of boarders who may wish to pass their nights at this altitude. From Paineiras to the summit the ascent is very sharp and the yiews on either side become more and more extensive and beautiful. After leaving the train, an ascent of about 130 feet on foot brings the visitor to the summit of the peak, a small walled-in space of a few square yards, 2,329 feet (710 metres, railway measurement) above the sea level, with giddy precipices en The every side but the one up which the footpath summit climbs, and commanding views of sea, city and bay, of hills, forests and mountains, a wonderful grouping together of all that is grandest — 176 — and most beautiful in nature, with that which is most attractive and notable in human effort. To the south the eye takes in the royal palms of the Botanical Garden, the placid surface of the Lagoa de Freitas and the long line of glistening surf on the sea shore. At the foot of the moun tain lies the suburb of Botafogo with its white streets crossing each other at right angles, and so far away that the sound of voices is rarely heard, and men look like flies on the pavement. At the harbor entrance stands the Sugar Loaf, its rounded top many hundred feet lower than the observer. The whole expanse of the bay lies stretched out like a map, and the eye can follow its curving shores for miles. And it will always be a surprise to- see how small a part of this great bay is actually occupied by shipping. Across the bay, back of Nictheroy, the country is nothing but an expanse ot billowing, forest-clad hills. To the north is seen the jagged peaks of the Organ mountains, within whose recesses lie the towns of Petropolis, Theresopolis and Nova Friburgo, whither so many go to seek relief from the exhaust ing summer heat of the city. A part only of the city itself can be seen from the peak — Bota fogo, Larangeiras, Cattete, Gloria, Castle' and S. — 177 — Antonio hills with the old city beyond, and some thing of Cidade Nova and S. Christovao. Much of it is hidden by the mountain spur terminating in Morro de Santa Thereza, and by the hills to the west extending toward Tijuca. The railway company has erected a pavilion on the summit for the shelter and convenience of visitors. For those who can pass the day on the Cor covado, there is a charming walk along one of the small aqueducts, beginning at the Paineiras and extending along the southern face of the 'Devil's bridge" mountains toward Tijuca. This path walk can he followed for a long distance if the traveller has the courage to cross a somewhat risky place called the "devil's bridge." This walk gives a good opportunity for the collection of ferns and curious forest plants. The descent of the mountain usually takes much more time than the ascent. The regular week-day trains run at 8 a. m., 12 m., 4:20 and 8:20 p. m., returning after a delay of 35 minutes at the summit. On Sundays and holidays the trains run more fre quently. Special trains can also be procured on short notice for not less than 20 passengers. Inquiries should be made before starting, however, as the trains have recently been somewhat irregular. - 1 78 - Tijuca. There are few places in the immediate neigh borhood of Rio de Janeiro more widely known to travellers than the suburb of Tijuca. It lies some seven or eight miles west of the D. Pedro II square, in a beautiful valley in the mountains and at an elevation of 1,000 to 1,200 feet above the sea level. In 171 1 many inhabitants fled to the recesses of this valley to escape the dangers of Duguay Trouin's assault upon the city. Many years after, an Englishman, named Bennett, estab lished a boarding house in the valley, a little beyond and below the gap through the mountains, which at once became a favorite resort for foreign residents of the city and travellers. With the completion of the S. Christovao tramway line to the foot of the mountain the facilities for visiting Tijuca were so greatly increased that no traveller could say that he had really visited Rio de Ja neiro without including a trip to Tijuca and a night at Bennett's. The name of Bennett has now passed away, other hotels have been built, charming private residences have sprung up on every side, embowered in the midst of trees and flowers, and many of the most celebrated — 179 — attractions of the place can now be reached in carriages over well made and well kept roads. The hurried traveller can make the excur sion in about five or six hours, but so hasty a journey is not recommended. The actual time for the trip is nearly two hours each way, but to visit the various points of interest in the neighborhood a full day is required. The most enjoyable excursion is to go up toward evening, spending the night there and visiting its various objects of interest in the coolness ofthe morning: To go to Tijuca the traveller should take a S. Christovao tram-car (marked "Tijuca" on the lamp box) at the Largo de S. Frarieisco de Paula. "These cars start every 20 minutes, but those Route and connecting with the coaches leave at 5 and timetable 7:23 a.m. and 2:23, 4:03 and 4:20 (express) p.m., on week days, and at 6:23, 8:23 and 10:23 a.m., and 2:23 and 4:23 p.m. on Sundays and holidays. For a short distance the line passes through narrow uninteresting streets, but on reaching the Campo da Acclamacao, it passes successively the City Hall and Sant'Anna School, the military barracks and the D. Pedro II railway station, all facing upon that most charming of — 180 — gardens. Turning into Rua de Visconde de Itatina, the traveller soon reaches an untidy public garden called the Praca Onze de Junho, upon which faces the S. Sebastiao School. ' Beyond this is the Mangue canal (p. 75) which is always being dredged and its margins cultivated for flowers and shrubbery. The gasometer stands upon its northern side and is now (since 1886) the property of a Belgian company, the successor Gasometer °^ the English company which built the works and first supplied the city with gas in 1854. The district through which this street runs was formerly a great swamp, and is not yet wholly filled up. After passing the company's stables the line turns to the left into an uninterest ing side street, and then to the right into Rua do Haddock Lobo, one of the broadest and hand somest streets of the city. The residences and gardens along this street, and for a part of its continuation under the name of Rua do Conde de Bomfim, are unfailing sources of admiration, and are, perhaps, belter illu.stl¦ations^ of tropical surroundings than those of the Cattete and Botafogo. At No. 119 Rua do Conde de Bomfim, near the end of the line, is the Andarahy station where — ISI — Tijuca passengers change the tram-car for the Andarahy coach. T)le new road, as it is called to distinguish it from the older and steeper road which pedestrians still use, ascends the serra in long inclines and sharp curves, and the ride up is almost like a dash over a level turnpike. And as The din- the stranger goes vibrating back and forth up gence ride thg mountain s;de and at times sweeping around into the narrow little valley of the Mara- cana, the wonderful scenery about him becomes like a gigantic kaleidoscope, with ever-changing forms and colors. At one moment he is looking back over the distant city, a confused mass of white and green hedged in and broken by hills ; at the next he is looking down into a dusky, narrow little valley through which flows a tiny stream, to be gathered up in a massive granite reservoir near the bottom. And over all this rises the granite mountain walls, bare and weather- beaten in places and then clothed with the royal colors of the tropical forest, which finally termin ate in the magnificent peak of Tijuca. These mountain-side forests are most beautiful in the month of March when the quaresma blossoms are out and the great trees themselves* are robed in colors like garden shrubs. The finest view is — 182 — from a point near the top, from which the whole city and bay above Santa Thereza Hill are to be seen, too far away for details, perhaps: yet near enough for so great a picture. The Alto da Boa Vista — as the highest point in the road is called — Boa vista 's l:48 feet above the sea. The mountains rise on either side, leaving a basin-shaped valley, descending toward the sea on the west, within which is built the suburb of Tijuca. The principal views are to the westward, with the Atlantic in the distance and the great mass of the Gavea always filling in some part of the picture. Tijuca is provided with good hotels, and riding horses and carriages can always be procured on short notice. The fares each way are 400 reis for the tramway and i$ooo for the coach. The principal points of interest about Tijuca are the Peak, which rises 3,362 feet above the sea — the highest point in the immediate neighborhood of Rio de Janeiro ; the "Floresta," piacestobe or government tree plantation, with its visited beautiful drives; the cascatinha, or small waterfall, on the road to the Floresta ; the cascata grande, or large waterfall, on the lower road ; the "grottoes'' in the Floresta; the "Pedra Bo- nita," a detached mountain from which the - i83 - loveliest views can be obtained ; and the "Chinese view," a point just above the Botanical Garden from which a bird's-eye view of the Lag6a and Botafogo valleys can be obtained. The view from the peak of Tijuca is indescribably beautiful and commands a wider prospect than any other point near the city, but the climb is- a fatiguing one and the disappointments are frequent because of clouds or hazy atmosphere. The "Chinese view" is always enchanting and can be reached by a charming drive over a good road. The return to the city is frequently made by this route, the horses or carriage being dismissed at the Botanical Garden where a tram-car can be taken. Petropolis. Since the completion ofthe Principe do Grao Para railway in 1883, an excursion to Petropolis has become one of the possibilities of a single day. Formerly the journey took between four and five hours each way, and it was not possible to return the same day ; now, on Sundays and holidays the excursionist can leave Rio in the morning and return in the evening, completing the trip in eleven hours, out of which seven hours — 1 84 — can be spent in Petropolis itself. The old road, however, was so picturesque and the coach ride over it was so full of charming experiences, that there are many who regret that it has become a thing of the past. The excursionist to Petropolis should take a Carris Urbanos tram-car on Rua i° de Marco, marked "Praca Municipal," which passes the "Prainha" wharf of the Petropolis boats. These cars pass through crowded business streets which To the boat are frequently blocked for a long time. The quicker method is to take a tilbury, but the distance can easily be walked in from 10 to 15 minutes, through the Quitanda or Ourives to Rua da Prainha, thence to the right direct to the boat landing. The heavy coffee traffic in some of these streets is the principal cause of the blockades. At the Prainha the regular daily boat leaves at 4 p. m., and on Sundays and holidays at 7 a. m. During the season of great est travel there is also a midday boat. Strangers should, however, make inquiries as to the hour of departure of these boats before starting, as changes Farcs are sometimes made to suit the season. The regular fare to Petropolis is 7$500 ; excursion rate i2$ooo, good for 60 hours, which - i85 - time does not include Sundays and holidays ; Sunday and holiday excursion rate 8$ooo, good for that day only. 1 The ride up the bay is scarcely less interest ing and picturesque than that up the serra. As the boat leaves the wharf, the old Benedictine UptheBay monastery on S. Bento Hill (p. 117) comes out in strong relief on the right, and below it the busy shipyards attached to the ma rine arsenal. The shore line on the left shows the great storehouses of the D. Pedro II docks (p. 86), from which all the coffee exported from Rio is shipped. These docks now belong to a private company, which enjoys one of the least excusable monopolies of the city. Beyond these is Saiide point where there is a large dry dock islands cut m the rock. The first island on the left is Santa Barbara, sometimes used for hospital purposes in epidemics of small-pox ; the first on the right is Enchadas, just beyond which is the customary anchorage for ocean steamers. As the boat proceeds up the bay the scenery becomes more and more varied. The islands are too numerous to be named and described ; while the attention is constantly turned from the peculiar grouping ofthe mountains behind the city, to the — 1 86 — massive walls and peaks of the Serra dos Orgaos in front. The boat passes close to the shore of Governor's Island, on which are several large plantations, some small villages and a population of about 3,700. This island is about 6 miles long and two miles wide. The famous island of Paquetd lies further up the bay and to the right. It has a population of about 1,400 and is a favorite summer residence with many business men. The upper end of the bay is very shallow, and the boat is sometimes unable to approach Maua the Maud landing pier. The distance to this point is 12 miles, and the time taken from the city is about one hour. The traveller here enters a train largely composed of short, old-fash ioned cars, with an occasional long "American" car opening at the sides. These latter are much to be preferred for comfort. The section of railway between Maud and Raiz da Serra (foot of the serra) has an extension of 10 miles, and was the first constructed in Maua railway South America. It was built under a concession to the Visconde de Maua, was opened to traffic on April 30th, 1854, and was sold to the Principe do Grao Pard company in 1883. It runs through a low, swampy country, - i87 - sparsely settled, and on almost a dead level— the rise being only 131 feet in the whole distance. The road is rough, the cars uncomfortable and the journey anything but pleasant. At Raiz da Serra — the present site of the government powder mill — the train is broken up into sections for the The ascent ascent. The mountain section of the road is operated on the Riggenbach system for a distance of 3^ miles, and the highest altitude attained is 2,804 feet above the sea level, or 2,660 feet above Raiz da Serra. The road follows the outline of the valley and is a very creditable piece of engineering. In places the traveller can look down upon its winding track hundreds of feet below, and the old macadamized road is in view much of the distance. There is one notable iron viaduct, the "Grota Funda," near the sum mit, 197 feet long and 78 feet high. It is built in 4 spans, the longest of which has an extension The scenery of 69 feet. The scenery along this road is indescribably beautiful at all seasons of the year, and in places the traveller has the whole ofthe low country and the bay spread out below him like a map. In the distance, 25 miles away, lies the city of Rio de Janeiro, and behind it the always familiar peaks bf Tijuca, Corcovado and — i88 — the Sugar Loaf. After passing the "Alto da Serra," the train is reunited and then proceeds down to the Petropolis station, i ty& miles distant. There are several good hotels, some of which send omnibuses to the station for guests. The city of Petropolis is built in a large broken valley, or basin, in that part of the Organ mountains known as the Serra da Estrella. The Petropolis average altitude is about 2,700 feet above the sea, which gives it a cool, bracing clim ate. The estimated population' is 10,000, but this is probably too high. As the summer resi dence of the imperial family, it attracts a large number of transient residents during the hot months. The choice of Petropolis as a summer residence was made by D., Pedro I, who first visited the place in 1822. He at once purchased a large estate there, but his plans were not car ried into execution until about 25 years had elapsed. In 1843 it was decided to establish a German colony on the estate, and some 2,700 people of that nationality were brought out two years after and located there, many of them being employed to build the macadamized roads. The colony, however, can hardly be considered a success. The first visit of the imperial family — 1 89 — was in 1847. The opening of the Maud railway in 1854 and of the macadamized road up the serra in 1856, made Petropolis more accessible and popular. It is a very irregularly-built city, and many of its principal streets are divided by pretty mountain streams, fringed with trees — all of which add greatly to its romantic beauty. With better architectural taste in its buildings, both public and private, Petropolis would become a city of exceptional interest and attractiveness. There are many places of interest about Petropolis, but for these the excursionist can best make his arrangements after arriving there. The Places of imperial palace possesses no special at- interest tractions, nor is there any public build ing in the place which calls for a special visit. There is a small "crystal palace" located in a pretty little garden, which is used for occasional horticultural exhibitions. The partially-com pleted foundations of a new church, begun in 1883, are also to be seen near the imperial palace. Some distance below "the city, on the "Union and Industry" turnpike, is a pretty water fall in the Rio Piabanha, called the "Cascatinha," which is well worth a visit. The Union and Industry turnpike extends to Juiz de Fdra, in the — 190 — province of Minas Geraes, a distance of 144 miles, and was built immediately after the open ing of the Maua railway to bring down the produce of the interior. The construction of the D. Pedro II railway some 15 years after ruined it for freight purposes, but coaches are still used on it to Entre Rios for passenger traffic. Forthe majority of visitors the walks about the city and neighborhood will be amply sufficient to give a- good idea of its attractions. For the return, the regular daily train leaves at 7:30 a. m. and the Sunday and holiday ex cursion train at 4 p. m. Nova Friburgo. A trip to Nova Friburgo is one which every traveller should make who has the time at his disposal. It may be made in two days easily, giving a full day at Nova Friburgo, but more time should be taken if possible. The train leaves the Sant'Anna de Muruhy station of the Cantagallo railway, a short distance above Nic- starting theroy, at 6:30 a. m., and arrives at Nova point Friburgo at 10:35 a. m. Sant'Anna may be reached by an early morning boat, or by tramway from the Praia-Grande ferry landing. The railway — 191 — has until recently (August, 1887) belonged to the province of Rio de Janeiro, but it has been purchased by the Leopoldina company which will extend the line into Nictheroy. The line was built in sections between 1859 and 1873, traffic being opened as far as Nova Friburgo in the last mentioned year. From Sant'Anna to Cachoeiras, 45^ miles, the line passes over a level uninter esting country, with a rise of only 150 feet in the whole distance. At Cachoeiras the train is broken up and the serra is ascended by means of- The the Fell system for a distance of 8.3 miles, ascent the highest elevation attained being 3,545 feet at the "Alto da Serra." From this point to the city of Nova Friburgo the distance is a little over 13^ miles. The scenery during the ascent is even more beautiful than that up. the serra to Petropolis, being much wilder in places and with wider prospects. The altitude of Nova Friburgo is 2,794 feet above the sea. The climate is cool and invigorating, and the scenery almost Alpine Nova in character. Nova Friburgo is the site of Friburgo the first colony established in Brazil, a number of Swiss emigrants settling there in 1819, and some German families in 1824. The colony was broken up a few years after, but many of — 192 — their descendants are still living in the place. There are many charming walks and rides in the neighborhood. The hotels are good, and the people are exceptionally hospitable and obliging. Theresopolis. The finest mountain scenery, the best climate, and probably the most varied and interesting vegetation, is to be found in Theresopolis, a mountain valley about 45 miles in a north-east erly direction from the city. The sharp peaks of this locality, from which the Organ range takes its name, are among the first and greatest objects of interest to every stranger. Theresopolis is frequently called the "Switzerland of Brazil," and the sublimity and beauty of its mountain scenery certainly give it some claim to such an appel lation. At one time Theresopolis promised to be the summer capital, for it was the resort of diplomats, distinguished strangers and wealthy Brazilians during the reign of the first Emperor, and long before Petropolis was created. The The route journey there is one of some difficulty and fatigue, and it is therefore not frequently visit ed. A boat leaves Rio three times a week, usually — 193 — on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, at 3 p.m., calling at Paqueta on the way, and lands the traveller at a little village, called Piedade, at the upper end of the bay, at 6 p. m. From here a diligence runs across the country to the foot of the serra in about four hours, where the traveller passes the night. The journey up the serra is usually made on mule back in the morning, and a more charming arid exhilarating ride it would be difficult to find* Near the summit the road passes close beside the "Garrafad" and "Dedode Deus" (Finger of God) whose sharp, inaccessible peaks are so conspicuous from the city. At the "Alto," where the road passes through the gap into the valley of the Rio Paquequer, in which Theresopolis is located, the elevation is about 3,500 feet, and the culminating point ofthe range 7,323 feet. The little village of Theresopolis (Varzea) is situated about 500 feet below this gap and some three miles beyond. It is only a strag gling settlement and possesses no first-class hotels, but it has a climate that can not be excelled, picturesque walks and rides in every direction, elevated mountain valleys where the ounce and tapir are still to be found, and scenery which for grandeur and beauty has no rival in Brazil. — 194 — The D. Pedro II Railway. A journey over the serra section of the D. Pedro II railway will give the traveller a chance to see the best specimen of railway engineering in Brazil, and one of the best in the world. It will also afford views of some very interesting mountain scenery, of the outlying suburbs of the capital, of a few country towns, and will permit a short visit to a coffee plantation. Such a trip should extend to Barra do Pirahy, a small railway junction town on the Rio Parahyba, a distance of 67 miles. The first section of the road passes over a flat, low country, but after passing the town of Belem it begins to ascend the mountains in heavy grades and sweeping curves. Tunnels There are 15 tunnels on this section, the longest of which (No. 12) has an extension of a little over io/% miles (7,338 feet), upon which were expended seven years of labor and about 2,000,000$ in money. The scenery along this line is indescribably grand and beautiful, par ticularly from the neighborhood of Palmeiras, a little station overlooking the Macacos valley which enjoys a high reputation as a health resort. The upward trains leave at 5, 6 and 7 o'clock in — 195 — the morning and arrive at the Barra at 7:22, 8:15 Time and 10:25 a. m., respectively. The down- table ward trains leave the Barra at 1:50, 4:30 and 5:35 p. m. and arrive in Rio at 5:10, 6:45 and 8 p. m. respectively. This time table, however, is subject to frequent changes. There are coffee plantations a short distance beyond the Barra which can be visited during the day's excursion, provided the traveller is furnished with the neces sary letters of introduction. Sao Paulo. The traveller has the choice of two routes to Sao Paulo : by steamer to Santos and thence by the Sao Paulo railway, and by railway over the D. Pedro II and Sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro lines. If possible, the traveller should go by one route and return by the other. The trip via Santos to Santos, by steamer, takes from 18 to 20 hours, and is made within sight of the coast for nearly the whole distance. Santos is an im portant commercial city and is the port for the province of Sao Paulo. Its chief attraction to visitors is an exceptionally fine sea beach — the "Barra" — which is a favorite residence with — 196 — foreigners. The ride from Santos to Sao Paulo s. Paulo takes about two hours ; part of which is up railway the serra in four "inclined planes," having a total length of nearly five miles (8 kilometres, or 4.97 miles) and overcoming an elevation of 2,552 feet. The scenery along these "inclines" is exceptionally striking and beautiful, and to see the road itself, as a specimen of railway engineering, is worth more than the time and expense of the journey. The overland journey takes about 13 hours, and is somewhat fatiguing. The train ("Ramal de Sao Paulo" ) leaves the D. Pedro II overland railway station, Praca da Acclamacao, at tr'P 6 a. m. , passes over the main line to Barra do Pirahy, and thence over the Sao Paulo branch of the D. Pedro II line to its terminus at Cachoeira, where it arrives about midday. A change is here made to the metre-gauge Sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro line. Several important towns are passed on the journey, among which are Belem, Barra do Pirahy, Barra Mansa, Re- zende, Limeira, Taubat6 and Pindamonhangaba. Breakfast can be procured at Barra do Pirahy and dinner at TaubaK:. The road follows the Para- hyba river for a great part of the way, after leaving the Barra, parts of which are navigable. After — 197 — passing Rezende, and particularly from the stations of Boa Vista and Itatiaia, the highest peak in Brazil — the "Itatiaia," 8,898 feet high — can be seen on the right. The mountain range of which it forms a part, is called the "Serra da Man- tiqueira." The fare to Sao Paulo via Santos is 25$ooo, and by railway 29^400. The excur- Fares ' s'on rate by railway is 44$400, good for 30 days. Sao Paulo is a city of 50,000 popu lation and is capital of the province of that name. The famous coffee districts of the province lie about half a day's journey beyond, about and beyond the city of Campinas. THE IMPERIAL FAMILY. H. M. THE EMPEROR, Dom Pedro II de Alcantara, Constitutional Emperor and Perpetual Defender of Brazil ; born December 2nd, 1825, in Rio de Janeiro (Palace of Boa Vista); succeeded to the Throne, upon the abdication of his father, Dom Pedro I, on April 7th, 1831 ; assumed the government on July 23rd, 1840; crowned July 18th, 1841. He was married (by pro curation) on May 30th, 1843, anc' received the sacraments of the Church on September 4th, 1843, '° H. M. THE EMPRESS, Dona Thereza Christina Maria, 3rd Empress of Brazil; born in Naples, Italy, on March 14th, 1822; daughter of Francis I, King of the Two Sicilies. H. I. H. the Princess Imperial, Dona Isabel, Heiress to the Throne ; born in Rio de Janeiro (Palace of Boa Vista) on July 29th, 1846 ; married October 15th 1864, to H. I. H. Gaston d'Orleans, C6mte d'Eu, son of H. .R. H. the Due de Nemours, and grandson of H. M. Louis Philippe, King of the French; born in Neuilly, France, on April 28th, 1842 ; and has issue : H. I. H. Dom Pedro de Alcantara, Prince of Gram Para, born in Petropolis, October 15th, 1875; aTK' two younger Princes. H. M. the Emperor's second daughter, H. H. Dona Leo poldina, was born in Rio de Janeiro on July 13th, 1847, and died in Vienna, Austria, on February 7th,- 1871 ; married December 15th, 1864, to H. R. H. Due de Saxe- Coburg-Gotha; and left issue: H. H. Dom Pedro, born in Rio de Janeiro on March 19th, 1866; H. H. Dom Augusto, born in Petropolis on Dec ember 6th, 1867 (who is an officer in the Imperial Navy); and two younger Princes. 198 EXCHANGE. The traveller should exchange his foreign money for Brazilian currency at one of the numerous brokers' shops, otherwise inconvenieifce will be experienced in paying tram- fares, etc. It is not advisable to carry away any Brazilian currency unless as a curiosity, for it is legal to declare certain issues uncurrent and this is not unfrequently done. The monetary unit of the Empire is the mill eis (1,000 reis) written i$ooo, and the par value is 27^. sterling per milreis, or 54^. U. S., and £i would be worth 8$889, $ i U. S. 15852. The following table is calculated on the basis of £ = $4.80 U. S. = 25.20 Francs = 20.20 Reichsmarks. $1 -C-* si -§i£ 1S000 £ 1 U.S. 2$94i U- £E 1S000 n$636 U.S. u_ 17 pence I4$n8 $56° $699 X 2$424 $462 $576 y? 14 014 2 920 556 694 X 11 566 2 409 459 57= H *3 913 2 900 552 689 7A 11 497 2 394 457 569 X 13 813 2 879 548 684 21 pence 11 429 2 38l 454 566 'A ¦3 714 2 858 544 679 'A 11 361 2 367 452 562 H >3 617 2 837 540 674 H 11 294 2 353 45° 559 X 13 521 2 817 536 669 % 11 228 2 339 447 556 % 13 427 2 796 532 664 % 11 163 2 326 443 553 18 pence 13 333 2 777 529 660 x 11 098 2 3'3 440 55° A 13 24. 2 759 5=5 655 X 11 034 2 300 438 547 X '3 151 2 74° 522 651 %¦ 10 971 2 287 436 544 H 13 061 2 721 519 646 22 pence 10 909 2 273 433 540 % 12 973 2 702 Si5 642 A 10 847 2 260 43i 538 x 12 886 2 685 512 637 % 10 787 2 247 429 535 X 12 800 2 667 508 633 Vs 10 726 2 234 426 532 % 12 715 2 648 5°5 629 a 10 667 2 222 423 5=9 19 pence 12 632 2 631 502 625 H 10 608 2 21.. 421 526 . 'A 12 549 2 614 499 621 X 10 549 2 I98 418 523 % 12 468 2 597 495 617 % 10 492 2 l86 416 520 % 12 387 2 581 492 613 23 pence 10 435 2 I74 414 517 % 12 308 2 5^4 489 609 A 10 378 2 ID2 412 514 X 12 229 2 547 486 605 % 10 323 2 150 410 5" X 12 152 2 531 483 6=1 H 10 267 2 139 408 509 % 12 075 2 516 479 597 •A 10 213 2 I27 405 506 20 pence 12 000 2 500 476 594 X 10 159 2 Il6 403 5°3 A 11 925 2 484 474 59° X 10 105 2 TO5 401 500 X 11 852 2 469 47i 587 % 10 052 2 O94 399 498 H 11 779 2 454 468 583 24 pence 10 .000 2 083 397 495 % 11 707 2 439 465 579 TRADE OF THE PORT. Brazil produces but few articles for its consumption, and even some that should be considered as properly belonging to its production, such as jerked-beef, an article of immense con sumption, and maize are largely imported. Great Britain supplies a very large proportion of the consumption, but both France and Germany show an increased competitive energy. The United States is to an enormous extent the best customer for Brazilian produce, while it supplies comparatively little in return. The scope of this work does not permit of more than a summary. Imports. The most valuable are cotton, woolen, linen and other goods, which are supplied largely from Great Britain. Statistics are scanty, but the following may be of interest, showing countries and values for the two calendar years : 1886. 1885. Great Britain 43,980, 768^543 36,680,5491123 British possessions 1,851,576409 2,655,697029 Germany 11,847,791 229 9,293,046 392 France 10,903,399618 12,844,788586 Uruguay 10,103,042 723 7,983,303 746 United States 8,166,089274 6,934,011 882 Portugal and poss'ons. 6,560,135 567 6,140,116 573 J'.elgium 5,724,874643 4,927,909113 Argentine Republic... 4,778,684 198 3,683,011 407 Italy 868,182820 822,738491 Sweden 320,188899 224,688102 Austria 157,911850 194,972282 Chili 123,410241 101,503180 Holland 108,902716 83,396975 Spain and possessions. 96,256 388 84,344 513 Russia 48,007333 54,97' 667 Denmark 34,998000 1 8, 745 334 Paraguay 8 000 5 000 Totals 105,674,2289451 92,727,799*395 200 Some of the more important staple articles imported were : 1886. 1 885. Flour: Oris. oris. United States..., ._ 308,074 304,620 Trieste 15,160 '8,539 Chili 3.500 6,733 River Plate 7°,'H 76,389 New Zealand ',740 6,867 Total 398,588 413,148 Pine : M. feet. M. feet. Pitch 7,757 8,588 White 2,549 4,z86 Spruce 640 424 Swedish Deals, doz 23,924 22,725 Kerosene, cases 306,927 S11,0^ Rosin, brls : 15,028 8,708 Lard, packages 52,740 66,435 Codfish : Canadian, packages 74,659 64,936 Norwegian, etc., cases 15,826 8,756 Coal : British, tons 268,041 270,939 Sundries ,, 738 1,036 Cement : British, brls 44,I03 58,475 German ,, 25,807 10,229 French ,, 16,576 6,522 Hay, bales 86,075 63,157 Bran, bags 75.330 93>5°3 Maize, bags 347. '39 ' 102,613 201 Exports. Our principal, indeed we may say only, article of export is coffee, as will be seen from the tables below. The coffee crop year runs from July lo June inclusive, and annexed are receipts and exports (foreign) for the last ten crop years ending June 30th, 1887, in bags of 60 kilogrammes. Receipts Clearances . U. States Europe Elsewhere Total 1886-87 3t5oo>059 2,065,802 1,190,360 136,486 3,392,648 IS85-86 3,888,378 2,468,408 1,036,174 115,685 3,620,267 1884-85 4,114.903 2,681,436 1,286,832 155,723 4.123,991 1883-84 3,188,426 2,024,812 959,024 118,456 3,102,292 1882-83 4,736.678 2,608,677 1,679.422 140,570 4,428,669 1881-S2 3,839,053 2,311,999 1,346,714 148,989 3,807,702 1880-81 4.519,874 2,115,210 1.916,887 158,327 4,190,424 1879-80 2,975,624 1,875,511 937,967 89,946 2,903,424 1878-79 3.698,596 2,098,948 1,336,233 135,496 3,570,667 1877-78 2,664,249 1,484,795 957,387 101,667 2,543,849 Rio supplies a considerable quantity to coast ports of the Empire, which is not included in the above, and the local con sumption is estimated to be about 72,000 bags per annum. The official values of exports for the two last crop years are as follows : 1886-87. 1885-86. Coffee 106,273,542^931 86,827,722^353 Gold 1,197,672348 2,673,289960 Tobacco, etc 1,144,004415 971,963 235 Hides 875,928325 940,219000 Diamonds 277,286000 209,932000 Rosewood 100,077623 94,245389 Tapioca 86,685 700 ¦>ugal' 55.307 394 328,691110 Rubber 34, 808 823 3,842 400 Rum 7,819290 20,548490 All other 92,299902 398,784539 Totals 110,145,4325751 92,469,238 476 202 Receipts and Expenditures. According to official estimates the probable revenue of the Empire for the fiscal year 1886-87, including such items from 1885-86 as had not been audited, is distributed as follows : Neutral Municipality 67,902,200*729 Prov. of S. Paulo 12,971,281 096 Bahia 11.603,815 600 Pernambuco 10.867,643 01 7 £ara 9,830,448 843 Rio Grande do Sui 8,213,226665 Maranham 2.225.144 534 Ceara 1,809,204 698 Rio de Janeiro 1,644, 767 333 Minas Geraes 1, 383, 437 151 Amazonas 1 , 120,465 820 Alagoas 1,108,704 740 Santa Catharina 744,420 669 Parahyba 691,403 482 Parana 630,367 9X2 Espirito Santo 464,423252 Piauhy 310,334 543 Matto Grosso 291,695 794 Sergipe 266,034 409 Rio Grande do Norte 197,728 338 Goyaz ;.. 49,095 277 Foreign 453.193 224 Total 134,779,037^196 The authorized expenses, by departments, were : Empire 8,854,044^497 War 14,656, 178S31; Justice 6,395,605408 Agriculture... 34,213,183 142 For. Affairs.. 945,356666 Finance 61,691,279 54., Navy 10,851,023925 137,606,671^495 Extraordinary 12,214,966 216 Sundry authorized payments 5, 195,3 '9 687 Total 155,016,957(5398 203 Customs Revenue. The custom houses of the Empire play so important a part in its revenue and that of Rio de Janeiro so very important a part among these, that we annex tables showing the collections at this port for the two last fiscal years July — June. Duties on imports are heavy, an average of nearly 40 per cent, on official values. Export duties are levied, in lieu of direct taxation on the planting interest ; they are 7 per cent. on coffee, 9 per cent, on rum, hides, tobacco, rubber and rosewood, 2.y2 per cent, on gold, excepting that refined at the Mint here, which pays \l/z percent. Sugar formerly paid 5 per cent, but is likely to be relieved of this charge. The percent ages are levied on market values as reported by sworn brokers, periodically ; that of coffee is generally reported every Saturday, and upon the average price of certain qualities the valuation \paula) is based. The receipts at the Rio custom house for the fiscal years were : 1886-87. 1885-86. Import duties 38, i57,833$384 34, 754,44i$o66 Port dues 201.380 000 193,323 530 Export duties 7.673,310 9*76 6,321,792 022 Sundries 44,531 757 33,196449 Surtax 5% 1,793,883907 47,87o,940$n24 4r,302,753$o67 The surtax came into effect on July 1st. 1S86. It is levied on all taxes, except duties on exports, and is destined to im migration purposes, and to the more rapid emancipation of slaves. 204 ihstidezx:. Academy of fine arts, 83. Accession of D. Pedro II, 43.' Acclamacao, Praca da, 61, 153. Ajuda convent, 120. Alio; — Gav£a road 171; Petr..polis 187; Nova Friburgo 191; Tijuca 182; Theresopolis 193. Anchorage: — lower 7; upper i?, 185. Andarahy, 181. Aqueduct.: — Carioca 53, 154, 157: Rio do Ouro 56; road 160. Armacao hill, 11. Arsenals, 69. Associacao Commercial, 76. Astronomical observatory, 97. Asylums: — agricultural 98, blind, deaf and dumb 98; beggar's 85: insane 124; orphans 90, 126. Avenue of palms, 169. Banks, 152. Bay: — discovery 21; entrance 1, 3; general description 5, 16; islands 15, 186. Beethoven club, 139. Beggar's asylum, 85. Benedictines, 117. Blind, school for, 98. Boat hire, 19 Boa Viagem, island and church, io. H6a Vista : — palace 67; Gavea road 171; Tijuca 182. ¦Bonds, 144, Botanical Garden, 64, 169. Botanical Garden tramway, 147. British Burial Ground, 130. Brotherhoods, 103, 121, 128. Bull-fights, 133. Burials:— early practices 108, 113: at present 122; cemeteries, ic8, 129, Cabinet departments, 68. Caes das Mariiihas and Caes dos Mineiros (landing stages), 12. Cafes, T41- Cajii, 14. Campo de Sant'Anna, 61, 153. Carceller, 151. Carioca: — aqueduct 53, 154, 157; res ervoir 54,161; serra 3; square 161. Carmelites: — churches 104; convent Ti8; hospital 128; nunnery 121. Carnival societies, 141. Carris Urbanos tramway, 146. Cascatmha; — Tijuca 182; Petro polis, 189. Cassino, 139. Cattete, 165. Cemeteries 129. Chamber of Deputies, 70. Charity schools, 98. "Chinese view", 171, 183. Churches: — Baptist 116; Candelaria 105; Carmo 104; Cruz dos Mili tares 104; English 113: German 114; Gloria iii: Gloria, parish, 112; Imperial Chapel 102; Lapa 119; Lapa dos Mercadores 105; Methodist 115; Portuguese 115; Presbyterian 114; Rosario 112; Sacramento 109: S. Francisco de Paula 107; S. Francisco da Pe nitencia 108; S. Jos6 no; S. Pe dro no; S Sebastiao 102, Chinch festivals, 132. City:— first view 5; historical sketch of 21; general description 49; government 48; population 35, 51; streets and buildings 50; sewerage and drainage 51; water supply 53, City hall, 49- Clubs, 139. Cobras island, 7, 30. Coffee, 45. Coligny, fort, 23. Commerce: — restrictions removed 32; statistics of, 200. Conservatory of music, 84. Constitution, 40. Convents, 116. Copacabana, 2, 147. Corcovado: — old road 172; railway 174; summit and views 175: time table 177. Cricket club, 141. Custom house, 71. Customs regulations, 18. Deaf and dumb, school for, 98. Desciiption of bay 5, t6; of city 49 ''Devil's bridge" walk, 177. Discovery of bay, 21. D. Joao VI, 32, 36. D. Pedro 1, 37—43; statue of 60, 155. D. Pedro II, 43. D. Pedro II college, 93. D. Pedro II docks, 86, 185. D. Pedro II railway 45; excursion over 194. D. Pedro II square, 58, 151. English church 113; cemetery 130. Epidemics, 20. Episcopal seminary, 96. Estacio de Sa, 25. Exchange (Praca do Commcrch), 36, 76 Exchange table, 199. Excursions: — starting point, 151 ; l-'raca da Acclamacao and Pas seio Publico 152; Santa Thereza and Old Aqueduct 157; The Botanical Gardei. 161 ; Laran geiras and the Corcovado 172; Tijuca 178; Petropolis 183; Nova Friburgo 190: Theresopolis 192; D. Pedro II railway 194; Sao Paulo 195. Exposure of infants, 125. Expulsion ot French 27: of Port uguese 40. Ferry slip, 59, 151. Festivals, 132. Financial difficulties, 37, 41. Fitst Exchange, 36. First foreign residents, 34. First settlements: French 4, 7, 22; Portuguese 2, 26. Floresta, -64, 1,82. Forts and fortresses: — Coligny 23; Lage 4, 23; Pico 3; Santa Cruz 3: S. Joao 4; Viiiegagnon 7. Foundlings hospital, 125. Franciscans : — churches 107 ; con vents 118; hospitals 128; nun nery 120. French invasions, 29. Gain boa, 13. Gasometer, 180. Gavea, 2, 171. General description :— bay 5, 16; city 49. Geographical position, 21. German church, 114. Germania club, 140. Gloria, hill and suburb, 6, 164. Gloria church in; parish do. 112 Governor's island, 16, 186. "Grota funda", 187. Guarda Velha, 162. Harbor entrance, 1, 3. Health visit, 17. Health of city, 20. Historical sketch, 21. Hotels (see advertisements) , 141. Hospitals : — Benejice?icia Portu- gueza 128; Carmelite 128; Fran ciscan 107, 109; Foundlings' 125; Jurujuba (yellow fever) 127; Lazaros (lepers') 127: Military 126; Misericordia 122, 156: Sau de 124. Huguenot settlement, 22. Icarahy, view from, 8. Ilhas: — Cobras 7; Governador 16; Grande 17; Ratos 8. Imperial chapel, 102. Imperial family, 198. Imperial palaces: — old city palace 65; S. Christovao (Boa Vista) 67; Cajii and Santa Cruz 67. Imperial palace grounds, 64. Imports and exports 200. Inclined plane, 149, 157. Independent e, struggle tor, 38. Independence day, 132. Insane asylum, 124. t Islands, 15, 16. Itatiaia, 193 Jardim Botanico, 64, 161. Jockey clubs, 133. Jurujuba bay 8; hospital, 127, Lage, fort and island, 4, 23. La goa Rodrigo de Freitas, 168. Landing stages, 12. Lapa, church and convent, 119. Larangeiras club 140, suburb 173. Largos:— Carioca 55, 101; Cattete 1^6; Gloria 165; Lapa 146, 154, 164; Machado 62, 166;. Mae do Bispo 162. Legislative assembly, first, 40 Lepers' hospital, 127. Libraries:— British subscription* 101; Fluminense 100; Gabinete Por tuguez 100; Marine 100; Na tional 79. "Lord Hood's nose", 2. Lycett de Artes e Officios, 95, 162. Mangue canal, 75. Markets, 73. Masonic societies, 140. Maua railway, 44, 186. Mechanics' night school, 95, 162. Medical school, 92, 156. Methodist church 115; girls' school 115, i74- Military school, 88. Mint, 71. Misericordia, 122, 156. , Monasteries: — Benedictine 117. Franciscan 118; Carmelite 119. Morgue, 85, 157. Municipal district, 47. Municipal government, 48. Museu Nacional, 81. Name of city, 27. National library, 79. National museum, 81. National printing office, 78. Naval school, 89. Nictheroy, 9. Night school, 95. Normal school, 94. Nova Friburgo, 190. Nunneries: — Ajuda 120, 163; Santa Thereza 121, 164. Observatorio Astrouomico, 97. Opera, 137. Organ mountains, 5, 192. Orphan asylums: —boys 99; girls 99, 126. Paineiras, 175. Palaces, 65. Palmeiras, 194 Paqueta, 16, 186. Passeio Publico, 62, 152. Passports, 18. Patron saint. 27. Pedro II asylum, 124, Penitentiary, 86. Petropolis, 183. Piano inclinado, 149, 157. ! Police organization, 85. Polytechnic school, 90. Population, 35, 51. Port regulations, 19. Portuguese: — expeditions against French 24; first settlement 26; expulsion of 40. Portuguese court, arrival of 32. Postoffice, 76. Praia de Fora h; Grande 9; Verme lha 2, 89, 167 Pragas : — Acclamacao 61, 153: Con stituicao 60, 155; Municipal 62: Onze de Junho 75, 180. Presbyterian church, 114.' Printing 33, 78. Protestant churches, 1 13. Public buildings, 64. Public fountains, 57. Public gardens and suuares, 58; [also see under Largo and Praca.] Public schools, 96. Quarantine, 17. Race courses, 133. Railways: — Cantagallo 191; Corco vado 174; D._Pedro II 45, 19^; Maua 186; Sao Paulo 196. Raiz da Serra 187. Ransom imposed by French 31. Rat island, 8. Reservoirs: — Carioca 55, 161; Mae d'Agua 55; Pedregulho 56; San ta Thereza 159. * Removed to 53 Rua dos Ourives iu August, 1887, where it has much better quarters than formerly. Revolt ot German soldiers 42 Rio do Ouro water works 56 S Antonio convent 118, 162. S. Bento monastery, 117, ) 85. S. Francisco da Penitencia church 108; hospital 109, 178. S. Francisco de Paula church and hospital 107; square 59, 155, 178. St. Sebastian 27. Sant'Anna de Muruhy 190. Santa Casa da Misericordia 122, .56. Santa Cruz, fortress 3; abattoir 49. Santa Thereza suburb 157; tram way 149. Santos 195. Sao Christovao palace 67. Sao Christovao tramway 148. Sao Paulo 195. ^ao Paulo railway 196. Saude 13. Savings bank 77. Schools 8S. Senate 70. Serras : — Carioca 3, 169; Estrella 188; Orgaos 192. "Sleeping giant" 2. Societies 139. Statues:— D. Pedro I 60, 155; D. Pedro II 125; Jose Bonifacio 59. Steamer anchorage 12. Steamship communication open'd 44. Submarine cable 45. Sugar Loaf 2. Tijuca 178. Theatres : — admission prices 139; oldest 134; D Pedro II 136; S. Pedro d'Alcantara 135; gar den theatres 138. Theiesopolis 192. Tramways 143; fares 1 49. Treasury 69, 153. Tunnels 194. Typograpkia Nacional 78. "Union and Industry" turnpike 189. Villa Isabel tramway 149. Viiiegagnon, Nicholas Durand. 22. Viiiegagnon, island and fort 7, 23. "VYater supply 53. Whale fisheries 1 r. Yellow fever 20; fiist appearance 44; hospital 127. r&- The Rio News THE ONLY ENGLISH NEWSPAPER PUBLISHED IN BRAZIL. cimcrDiDTinMC. 5 20$0OO per annum in Brazil bUBbLRIrMIUNb! { $10. or £2 „ „ abroad Gill iwoacziptioni s&oufo zwv -vuitFi t&& cci Ken-bat. year.. A. J. LAMOUREUX, Editor and Proprietor. JOSEPH M. WRIGHT, Commercial Editor. The Rio News is a commercial newspaper published in the interests of American and English merchants and capitalists, who are engaged in Brazilian trade, or who are interested in Brazilian investments. It aims to give the fullest and most accurate information on all matters, whether polit ical, financial, or commercial, affecting these interests. It is thoroughly independent and impartial, and enjoys the fullest confidence of the inter. ests served. The News circulates in all the principal sea-ports of Brazil, and in the principal commercial cities of the United States, Great Britain, and on the Continent. Publication Offices : No. yg, (Rua Sete de Setembro, 1st floor. RIO DE JANEIRO. Agents : GEORGE H. PHELPS, Esq., 154 Nassau St., New York Messrs STREET & Co. 3° Cohnhill, London, E. C. „ BATES, HENDY & Co. 37 Walbrook, London, E. C. „ JOHN MILLER & Co. Sao Pauxo.and Santos. ftmitefr. 53, RUA 1." DE MARQO, RIO DE JANEIRO. LOVEL J. MULLINS, Manager. t Capital subscribed ^1,000,000 „ paid up 500,000 Reserve Fund 200,000 HEAD OFFICE: No. 2 MOORGATE STREET, LONDON. Directors : Charles Carrington, Esq., Managing Director. William Bevan, Esq. Arthur B. 'White, Esq. John Alex. Sellar Esq. Richard Hatt Noble, Esq. David Howden, Esq. Charles Hemery, Esq. Branches: PARA, PERNAMBUCO, BAHIA, SANTOS, S. PAULO AND PORTO ALEGRE. Bankers in London: THE LONDON JOINT STOCK BANK, LIMITED. Correspondents : In Foreign Countries : In Brazil : Messrs. Heine & Co. Paris Messrs. Singlehurst & C. Ceara Messrs. H. Albert de Henry Airlie, Esq Maranhao Barry & Co Antwerp Messrs. John Boxwell Messrs. John Be ken- & Co Macei6 berg Gosslkr & Co. Hamburg Messrs. Vaughan, Mc- Banca Generale Italy Nair & Co Bahia Charles M. Fry, Esq. New York Messrs. Lavvson Huxham State National B'k New Orleans & Co R.Grande and in most ofthe principal cities ot Francisco Nunes de Europe and North America. Souza, Esq Pelotas In Montevideo, Buenos Aires and Rosario : The London and River Plate Bank, Limited. 11, Rixa cLa Candelaria Telephone 16. Capital subscribed ^1,250,000 ,, paid up 625,000 Reserve Fund 300,000 Manager E. A. Benn Cosme Velho, 73 Sub-Manager W. J. Crummack Rua do Cons. Pereira da Silva, 30 Accountant A. R. Oakes Hotel Candido, Larangeiras Cnief Caskter \ ^V^™ ^ } R»a S' a™"« ^ C Head Office: 8 Tokenhouse Yard, London. Manager Director John Beaton, Esq. Deputy Manager John Gordon, Esq. Inspector of branches Ernest Edye, Esq. Directors : John White Cater, Esq. Hon. Pascoe C. Glyn. James Alexander, Esq. Charles Edward Johnston, Esq. Edward L. Beckwith, Esq. Charles D. Rose, Esq. William K. Scholfield, Esq. John Hollocombe, Esq. Branches and Agencies : LISBON. OPORTO, PARA, PERNAMBUCO, BAHIA, RIODE JANEIRO, SANTOS, S. PAULO, RIO GRANDE DO SUL, PORTO ALEQRE, PELOTAS, MONTEVIDEO, NEW YORK. Bankers in Europe : LONDON : Messrs. Glyn, Mills, Cukrie & Co. PARIS: Messrs. Mallet Freres & Co. HAMBURG : Messrs. Schroder & Co., J. H. Schroder & Co. nchfr. ITALY : Messrs. Granet Brown & Co. Correspondents : CEARA: Messrs. S. R. Cunha & Co. MARANHAM: Messrs. Jose Pedro Ribeiro & Co. BUENOS AYRES : Banco de Italia y Rio de La Plata. 22, RUA DA ALFANDEGA, 22. Capital subscribed 2o,ooo,ooo$ooo „ paid up 12,000,000 ooo VISCONDE DE FIGUEIREDO, President. Directors : Conselheiro Manoel Salgado Zenha, Manoel Moreira da. Fonseca, Pedro Gracie, W. H. Holman, Kdw. Herdman. Branches: PERNAMBUCO, PARA'. This bank draws on Messrs. N. M. Rothschild & Son London Messrs. De Rothschild Freres Paris r Berlin Deutsche Bank \ Bremen"* [ Frankfurt f Rome Banca Generale and agencies j Naples and other Italian ( cities C Madrid Banco Hipothecario and agencies < Barcelona and other I Spanish cities f Lisbon Banco de Portugal and agencies < Oporto and other Port- ( ugnese cities English Bank of the River Plate, L't'd... \ B»enos Aires ( Montevideo Messrs. G. Amsinck & Co New York Buys and sells foreign exchange and transacts every desciiption of banking business. INCORPORATED BY ROYAL CHARTER, 1839, UNDER CONTRACT WITH HER MAJESTY'S GOVERNMENT. This Company's steamers leave Southampton on fixed dates for Brazil and the River Plate, 'West Indies, Mexico, Central America and Panama. The Steamers of this Company afford favourable opportunities to persons desirous of taking trips tor novelty, pleasure, or health; and much benefit is frequently derived from the round voyage which can be performed, if desired, without change of Steamer, and at very moderate expense. The ports of call are sufficient to agreeably diversify the passage, and a British community is found at most of them. Each Ship carries a Surgeon, whose services are given gratuitously to Passengers. There is also a Stewardess. Abatement in favour of Familes. From Southampton, Vigo and Lisbon, to Brazilian and River Plate Ports, and vice versa, an abatement of one-sixth from the established rate is made in favour of Families, but only in cases where the amount uf Passage Money [if charged in full for the whole party] would be equal to the full charge for four Adult Cabin Passengers. The term Family comprehends only Parents, their Children, and their Servants, and the abatement is not made to Passengers taking Return Tickets. OFFICES: LONDON 18 Moorgate Street, J. M. Lloyd, Secretary SOUTHAMPTON.. Canute Road, Captain Bevis, Supt. RIO DE JANEIRO -2 Rua General Camara, E. W. May, Supt. AGENCIES: PERNAMBUCO Adamson, Howie & Co. MACEIO J. H. Boxwell & Co. BAHIA Dennis Blair & Co. SANTOS Holworthv & Ellis. MONTEVIDEO F. L. Humphreys. BUENOS AIRES H.L.Green. ROSARIO Barnett & Co. Hamburg and South American Steamship Co. (Sambur^Sudamerikanisclie Dampfschifffalirts Gesellscliaft.) AGENCY IN RIO DE JANEIRO: EcL-OT-aircl Jo"h -n s-bona. & Co. No. 62, RUA DE S. PEDRO NAMES OF STEAMERS: Argentina, Bahia, Buenos Aires, Campinas, Ceard, Corrientes, Desterro, Hamburg, Lissabon, Montevideo, Paranagud, Pernambuco, Petropolis, Rio, Rosario, Santos, Tijuca, Uruguay, Valparaiso. The steamers of this company leave Hamburg for South America every month on the following dates : 4th and 18th for Lisbon, Bahia, Rio de Janeiro, (S. Francisco do Sui) and Santos ; ist, 10th and 20th for Montevideo, Buenos Aires and Rosario, (calling at Brazilian ports homeward): and 25th for Pernambuco, Rio and Santos. The return sailing dates from Rio de Janeiro are the 5th, 13th, 20th and 27th of every month. These steamers are first-class in all their appointments and are provided with surgeons; stewards, etc. The Company insures cargo and all valuables against maritime risks at a moderate rate. PASSAGE RATES : RIO DE JANEIRO TO 1ST-CL. 3RD-CL. RIO DE JANEIRO TO 1ST-CL. 3RD-CL. HAMBURG £25 100$ BAHIA 60$ 30$ LISBON ,,25 70 PERNAMBUCO... 80 40 MONTEVIDEO.... 100$ 4o SANTOS 20 10 BUENOS AIRES.. 120 40 S. FRANCISCO.... 40 20 Round-trip tickets, good for one year, at 25% reduction on 1 st-Class rates. Agencies : SANTOS: Edward Johnston & Co. S. FRANCISCO DO SUL: Antonio M. Barroso Pereira. BAHIA: Schramm, Stade & Co. PERNAMBUCO; Borstelmann & Co. LISBON; Ernest George. Messrs. Edward Johnston & Co., Rio de Janeiro, are also Agents for the Adria Hungarian Sea Navigation Co., Limited, of Fiume Harrison Line of Steamers of Liverpool Nautilus Steam Shipping Co., Limited, of Sunderland. taifiaq jteaflj $am§atiei| |eo()iai(§. (COMPANHIA BRAZILEIRA DE NAVEGAgAO A VAPOR.) This company has first class packets making three trips per month between Rio de Janeiro and Manaos, province of Amszonas. The ports of call are ; Victoria, Bahia, Maceio, Pernambuco, Parahyba, Natal, Ceara, Maranhao, Para and Manaos. Return tickets, first class, available for one year, with privilege of stopping at intermediate ports, are issued at 20 per cent, abatement on the following regular fares ; Ist-class Victoria 3o$ooo Bahia. 70 000 Maeei6 85 000 Pernambuco go 000 Parahyba 108 000 Natal 117 000 Ceara 1 44 000 Maranhao 180 goo Para 207 000 Manaos 290 000 2nd-elass i5$ooo 27 OOO 27 OOO 27 OOO 31 500 34 200 3« OOO 40 500 49 500 78 OOO For further particulars apply at the Company's office, RUA DO GENERAL CAMARA N° 10. B. BYRNE, Manager. 2, PRAQA DAS MARINHAS, RIO DE JANEIRO. Agents of the Pacific Steam Navigation Company, United States & Brazil Mail S.S. Co., Shaw, Savill 6r» Albion Co. , Limited, The New Zealand Shipping Co., L'd., and the 'Commercial Union (Fire and Marine) Assurance Co. Commission Merchants, Coal Contractors, Bonded. Warehousemen, Steam Tug Owners. CTOHZisr x.. bissbt, aviaiiaser. ESTABLISHMENTS: Wilson, Sons & Co., Limited. LONDON, ST.- VINCENT (Cape Verd), PARAHYBA DO NORTE, PERNAMBUCO, RIO DE JANEIRO, BAHIA, SANTOS, MONTEVIDEO, and BUENOS AIRES. 70, LARGO DA LAPA. RIO DE JANEIRO. J. F. FREITAS, Proprietor. Recently enlarged and refitted. One of the most comfortable and conveniently-situated hotels for travellers in the city . All the tram-cars of the Botanical Garden line pass its door, which renders it a convenient starting point for excursions to the botanical Gardens and Corcovado. Tram-cars ofthe Carris Urbanos company for the Inclined Plane, D. Pedro II railway station and Ferry slips pass every few minutes. Two minutes walk from entrance to the Passeio Publico. Every attention given to the comfort of guests, and special pains taken to give information as to points of interest in the city. Telephone No. 1061. RUA DO MARQUEZ DE OLINDA, BOTAFOGO. This private hotel is most pleasantly situated on an elevation, surrounded by gardens, and has a complete bathing establishment, including douches, steam-baths, etc. Restaurant and extensive culinary departments. Concert saloon and billiard-tables. Situated only 35 minutes by tram from the centre of the city, the hotel offers the greatest possible comfort to visitors. Telephone call No. 1065. For transport of passengers and luggage to and fiom Steamers. Launches for hire to excursion parties. Swanwick & Gordon. Telephone 435. No. 6, PRACA 28 DE SETEMBRO , (formerly Largo da Prainha). ENTREPRISE DE V01TURES DE LOUAGE :MIo:n_tiag:n.e cle la Tij-aca SITU^E AU BAS DE LA MONTAGNE 1 19, RUA DO CONDE DE BOMFIM, 1 19 Telephone 2025 PERES. ATTENTION. Le respectable public et MM. les Voyageurs de passage a Kio de Janeiro qui voudraient passer la nnitaux confortables hotels Murray, Whyte et Jourdain, et en meme temps ceux qui desireraient jouir des belles pro menades ou faire des Pick-nicks a la montagne de la TIJUCA toujonrs fraicheetvivifiante L'EDEN FLUMINENSE d'ou les hotels et prome nades sont a peine eloigned de i heure et demie, plus on moin, de la place S. Francisco de Paula, point de depart des bonds que arrivent jusq'au pied de la montagne de la TIJUCA, lesquels parient avec intervalles de io, 20 et 30 minutes depuis 4 heures du matin jusqu'a minuit et vice-versas trouveront toujours a route de la journee ou de la nuit des voitures speciale, a louer et pour des prix moderes, tel que phaetons converts et decouverts, caleches, victorias et demi-caleches, non seulement pour les hotels ci-dessus indiques come pour n'importe quel point de la ville ou de ses environs, et aussi pour les incomparables promenades et points de vues aux eudroit*, cidessous indique's de la vivifhinte TIJUCA. Un service d'omnibus fonctionne plusieurs fois, chaque jour du bas de la montagne aux hotels Murray, Whyte e Jourdain a. la TIJUCA, au prix de 1 $000 par personne tant a la montee qu'a la descente. Un abonnement mensuel donnant droit a un voyage par jour dans chaque direction coute, 40^000. Promenades pittoresques et O Caminho da Gloria. O Excelso. Circulo Pittoresco. Mesa do Imperador. Vista Chineza. Jardim Botanico. Recreio Moke. Pedra Bonita. Parque Cochrane, Retiro de Ginty Castello Ford. Boa Vista. Parque Itamaraty Cachoeira Saudavel Furnas de Agassiz. Cascata Grande. Parque Lemgruber. Cascatinha Taunay.* Cascatinha Freitas Caixa d'agua. Rio de Janeiro, Septembre de 1887. pick-nicks: O Gigante do Rio. Floresta Imperial. Parque Bomfim. Cascatinha da Baroueza. Alto do Archer. Vista dos Francezes. Gruta de Paulo e Virginia. Vista dos Mylords. Circulo do Bom Retiro. Solidao do Paraiso. P. A. F. Peres. TIJ"TTC_A.. urray's Iamily Hotel » ALTO DA BOA VISTA. This first class establishment is situated about 1,250 feet above the sea level, is surrounded by , channing mountain scenery, has .fine baths with abundance of crystaline water direct from springs on the hills. It is most con veniently situated (5 minutes from the Cascatinha) for reaching the many charming and enjoyable walks, rides, views, etc., which abound and are the great attraction in Tijuca. The climate is most salubrious and invigorating. It is an easy distance from terminus of tramway, being only 40 minutes of a delightful ride up by coach, which passes in front eight to twelvetimes a day- Journey from Rio de Janeiro 1 h. 30 m. Tram-cars leave Largo de S. Francisco de Paula every 20 minutes. Excellent accommodations, first-class cooking, attendance, and wines. Piano, Card and Billiard rooms. Carriages, also saddle horses for ladies and gentlemen, to be had on short notice. Good stabling. Further information and particulars kindly given by Messrs. CRASHLEY & Co., 67 Rua do Ouvidor. Mr. J. C. V. MENDES (Portuguese Joe), *6*fe-pltb*i* St. 2049. No. 1 Pra^a D. Pedro II. JUIZ DE FORA. ¦*i Hotel Rio de Ia^eiroi» ©live Am, (&xus & <&o., gvopvirfflw. Luxuriously furnished apartments for families, good table and set vice, baths, and all modern conveniences. Situated in the centre of the city and near the D. Pedro II railway station. Charge : 5$ooo a day. PETROPOLIS. No. 6, RUA BRAGAN£A. This establishment, having been luxuriously furnished and rivaling the best of its kind in other countries, is specially destined for the reception of families and persons of respectability. It offers its guests every comfort, prompt attendance and a first-class table, with genuine wines imported direct. ~Fov further information apply at No. 74, Rua i° de Marco, ist floor. petropolis. «» Hotel do ®rAo-EarA» 90, rua do imperador. This first-class hotel is situated in the centre of the city, opposite the Imperial Palace, and is the nearest to the railway station, where visitors will be met by an employe" ofthe house. All languages spoken. George Beresford, Proprietor. Hotel Ieuenroth Province of Rio NOVA FRIBURGO Province of Rio de Janeiro. de Janeiro. CARL ENGERT, Proprietor. This first-class hotel was established about 40 yeais ago, and is situated 3,000 feet above the sea level in the midst of some of the finest scenery ofthe justly celebrated Organ Mountains. ¦ The town is a popular summer resort, only 3% t0 4 hours distant from Rio de Janeiro, and is frequented by the best society, both native and foreign, of the capital. It is reached by the Cautagallo railway which ascends the steep mountain side by means ofthe Fell system, and passes through some of the most charming scenery of the world. AIL languages spoken. Information given by Messrs. Alves Nogueira k Dalziel, 46, RUA d'OUVIDOR, RIO DE JANEIRO. Urande Hotel. 21, Rua k Santo Antonio and 105, Rua 25 de largo, SANTOS. R. NARET & Co., Proprietors. This hotel is highly recommended to travellers for its cleanliness, good service, and the excellence of its cuisine. Orders for breakfasts, dinners and banquets will receive prompt attention. The hotel is provided with well furnished apartments for families and pleasant rooms for single persons. Terms reasonable. ENGLISH NEWSDEALERS AND BOOKSELLERS. Subscriptions received for all the leading English and American news papers and periodicals. Agents for "The European Mail." A large assortment of English novels in the Tauchnitz, Franklin Square Library, Lovell Library, and other popular editions, constantly oh hand. Views of Rio de Janeiro and neighbourhood. Boots and Shoes, Umbrellas, Rubber Stamps, etc. Atkinson's, Piesse & Lubin's and Royal perfumeries. IsTo. 67, E.TJ-A. JDO OTTVIXJOIi- EIO DB JAITEIBO. PRINTERS, LITfiOSRAPHERS, PUBLISHERS MD BOOKSELLERS, OSro- 66, RTXA. T>0 OTJVIDOE. Published worlts in all branches of Science and Literature. Complete assortment of office and Geographical maps of Brazil, and fancy stationery,printingpaper,branlc especially of the provinces of Rio de books, etc. Janeiro, Sao Paulo, Minas Geraes, Orders from the provinces attended Rio Grande, etc., and a new map of to promptly. the city. «atalogut0 alio information gratis. Firms of Jftio tic Sanciro. Agency to European journals and Conversation guides and Grammars periodicals. in every language. MO DE J-A-HSTEIIBO. fftatkt fffam J|apfadflr§, M. NATTE & Co. The first and best house of its kind in the city. Established Twenty two years ago. Has received Medals from various International Exhibitions of Europe and America. Flowers in Feathers, Insects, Humming Hirds, Fans, Insects in -Jewelry, and a- large assortment of Birds, Butterflies and other objects of Natural History and Curiosities from Brazil. Views of Rio de Janeiro. N.0B 35-36, TRAVESSA DO OUVIDOR. Wholesale and retail dealers in ENGLISH BOOTS and SHOES. (Established 182S) Manufactory-: Kilmarnock, Scotland. A large assortment of boots and shoes, slippers, etc., of all qualities, for ladies and gentlemen, constantly in stock. DIRECTORY. LKGrATIONS : Great Britain.— H. G. Macdonell, Minister, No. 8, Travessa D. Manoel. United States. — Thomas J. Jarvis, Minister, No. 157, Rua das Larangeiras. Germany. — Count Donhoff, Minister, [53, Alfandega.] Petropolis. (The Ministers reside at Petropolis during the summer months.) CONSULATES : Great Britain.— G. T. Ricketts, Consul, No. 8, Travessa D. Manoel. United States.— H. C. Armstrong, Consul-Genera], No. 42, Rua do Ouvidor. Germany.— Octavio Haupt, Consul, No. "=3, Rua da Alfandega. CHURCHKS : English.— Rua do Evarihto da Veiga [Largo da Mae do Bispo.l Every Sunday at 11 a.m. C. N. Tannine, M. A., Chaplain. Residence: 157, Rua das Larangeiras. Methodist. — Largo do Cattete, English services every Sunday at 1:30 a.m. H. C. Tucker, Pastor. Residence : 79, Rua Sete de Setembro, 2nd floor. German. — No. 69, Rua dos luvalidos. Every Sunday at 10 a. m. Dr. C. M. Gruel, Past..r. Residence: 19, Rua dos Arcos. POSTOFFICE : Rua 1? de Manjo. General delivery and stamps, ground floor ; registry office and delivery, without values, ist floor; money orders and registry with values, 2nd floor. Foreign postage rates (Postal Union regulations) 200 reis for letters and 50 reis for newspapers: internal rates, 100 reis for letters and 10 reis for newspapers, TELEGRAPH OFFICES : Western & Brazilian, cable. No. 14, Rua do General Camara. Havas Agency, ,, No. 2, Rua de S. Pedro. . State lines; city offices 39, Praca da Acclamacao; Postoffice, 2nd floor; Exchange. D. Pedro IT railway Central station; No. 2, General Camara, glie finger f^mttfaxixtriwg ©or. a eOMPAKHIS MMUFAKTORA SINKER DE NOYA YORK) DNICOS FABRICANTES E PROPRIETARIOS DAS MACHnTAS PARA COSER SIH&EK MACHIWAS PAHA COSEH 250 Medalhas de Ouro da 1? classe, 120 ,, ,, Prata da 1? classe, Copos, Tacas, Diplomas Honrosos, e outros troph£os ! O maravilhoso resulhido que A Companhia Singer tem obtido por meio da introduccao das suas machinas de costura, de primeira qualidade, tem dado lugar a algumns tentativa-^ de uessoas inexperientes, cujo fim e populaiizar, debaixo de forma-, inodificadas, uma imitacao sem valor de niachinas de costura falsificadas, inas que deuoininam de aperfeicoadas, quando ao contraiio sao em tudo impsrfeitas e de pouc.i duracao. Note-se bem que t')dos os detalhe-. da marca da fabrica sao exacta- inente iguaes a esta copia. Sem estas palavras gra- vadas na chapa de metal adherente ao braco e armacao das machina-s, esta falsifi- cada e deve ser rejei- tada. Como estes pequenos tabricantes, uma especie de futricadores do trabalho e reputacao alheia, nao podem na Europa dispor de suas pessimas macliinas, feitas de ferro ordinario e mal acabadas, quando as verdadeiras sao Ae puro aco fino, mandam as para a America do- Sui querendo.assim prejudicar o nosso credito e reputacao. Vendemos por atacado, e a varejo e por prestacoes semanaes. Precisamos agentes em todas as partes. Dirija-se a : DIRECCAO GERAL NA AMERICA DO SUL, 53, RUA_ DOS OURIVES, 53 RIO DE JANEIRO. Em Huenos Aires ; Calle Maipu 79, e na Bahia, Pernambuco, Pelotas, Santos, Sao Paulo, Montevideo, Rosario, etc., etc. fVeja na frente. | . P. A. C. Mackenzie, Gerente. FAVORITE SINGERS. Favored Singers. 1 Famous Singers. Fast Singers. \ Faultless Singers. Sewing Machine Singers. Singers Sewing Machines. QXui Jitxgeu ^&nxifcXGi\xxin% ®cr. Are the only manufacturers and proprietors of the genuine SINGERS, and CHUtion the public against false machines that are sold and styled SINGER SYSTEM, SINGER IMPROVED, etc. The celebrated Singer Sewing Machine is known all the world over. It is adapted to all climes and seasons. It is preferred to all others owing to Its simplicity, Its strength and durability, Its superiority of work, Its beauty and evenness of stitch, It is easy to learn. It is safe threading. It is made by perfected automatic machinery. To-day there are more Singer Sewing Machines sod than those ot all other makes put together. In 1886 the Singer Manufacturing Co. sold 693,241. Wheeler & Wilson 78,300 Howe 34.487 White 66,602 Remington .... 25,183 Domestic 65.°59 Davis 25,00c New Home 62,719 Other makes, 16 in all.. 52,15*7 American 39,302 448,8<.9 The Singer Manufacturing Cu's majority over all others was 244,432. Catalogues on application. We sell wholesale, rei ail and by weekly payments. Agents wanted in all towns ofthe interior. Silk, Cotton, needles, duplicate parts: oil in cases, tins and barrels. HEAD OFFICE FOR SOUTH AMERICA : 53, RUA DOSOURIVES, 53 Rio de Janeiro H EAD OFFICE FOR THE PLATE DISTRICT : 79, CALLE MAIPU, 79 Buenos Aires. Agencies in Brazil, Uruguay and Argentine Republic: Para, Manaos, Piauhy, Maranhao, Ceard, Parahyba, Natal, Pernambuco, Macei6, Bahia, Victoria, Nictheroy, Ouro Preto, Campos, S. Fidelis, Santos, Sao Paulo, Curityba, Desterro, Rio Grande do bul, Pelotas, Porto Alegre, Montevideo, Rosario, Santa b'&, Cordoba, Tucuinan, Bahia Blanca, etc., etc. P. A. C. Mackenzie, | see end of book! Manager. **.-*'