•YAiuE-v]Hii¥Eiaainnr-

gssal

TRAVELS

NORTHERN GREECE.

WILLIAM MARTIN LEAKE, F.R.S. &c.
U4

IN FOUR VOLUMES.
VOL. II.

LONDON:
J. RODWELL, NEW BOND STREET.
1835.

LONDON :
GILBERT & RIVINGTON, PRINTERS,
ST. JOHN'S SQUARE.

CONTENTS

VOLUME II.

CHAPTER X.
MELIS, ^NIANES. PAGE
Zituni, Lamia — View of Melis, Thermopylae, and Mount QSta,
from Zituni — Mount Katavothra — Patratziki or Neopatra,
Hypata — Rivers Elladha, or Spercheius, and Vistritza, or
Inachus — JEnianes — GZtai — Tribes of the Malienses — Phthi-
otm — Dolopes — Dry opes — Franzi — River Gurgo, Dyras —
Mavraneria, Melas — Trachis — Heracleia — Rivers Karvunaria,
or Asopus and Phoenix — Anthele — Tliermopylm — Alpeni — Nicaea
Pundonitza — Military events at Thermopylae — Upper Pass of
Mount Callidromus, or Anopaea — Forts Tichius, Rhoduntia,
Callidromum  1

CHAPTER XI.
LOCRIS, PHOCIS, DORIS.
Pundonitza — Ternitza — Geography of Doris and the frontier of
Phocis — Rivers Apostolia and Kaienitza — River Cephissus —
Dhadhi, Amphicleia — Velitza, Tithorea, Neon — Lefta, Ela-
teia — Palea, Fiva, Ledon — Lilaa — Source of the Cephissus —
Charadra, Tithronium, Drymaa — Tetrapolis of Doris — River
Erineus, or Pindus, or Acyphas — Erineus, Pindus, Cytinium,
Banim — Departure from Velitza — Bissikeni — The Stena of the
Cephissus — Dhavlia — Rivers Platania, Mavronero — Daulis,
Inscription — Aio Vlasi — Mera — Kapurna — Panopeus — Cha-
roneia — Mount Petrachus — Arrival at Livadhia  66

IV CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XII.

PAGE
Livadhia, Mideia, Lebadeia, river Hercyna, Grove of Trophonius
— Inscriptions of Livadhia — Coroneia — Alalcomenae — Petra —
Mountains Libethrium, Laphystium, Tilphossium — Temple of
Minerva Itonia — Rivers Curalius, Phalarus, Isomantus — Krupi
— Skripu, Orchomenus, Treasury of Minyas, Monastery of
Skripu, Temple of the Graces, Inscriptions — Rivers Cephissus,
Melas — Lake Cephissis — Tegyra  1 18

CHAPTER XIII.
BOJOTIA, PHOCIS, L0CR1S.
Departure from Skripu — Source of the Melas — Tzamali, Asple-
don — Exarkho — Aba — Temple of Apollo — Vogdhani — Hy-
ampolis — Talanda — Atalanta — Opus — Cynus — Orobiae —
JEdepsus — Topography of Eastern Locris — Daphnus — Alope,
Cnemides, Thronium, river Boagrius, Scarpheia, Nicaea, Pha-
rygae, or Tame, Augeiae, Bessa, Calliarus — Mount Cnemis —
Mount Khlomo, Cyrtone — Corseia — Return to Valtesi — Ka-
lapodhi, Naryx — Sfaka — Merali — Khubavo — Paleokastro of
Belissi, Parapotamii — River Cephissus — Kapurna — Return to
Livadhia — Ancient military transactions in the plain of Chae-
roneia — Battle between Sylla and Archelaus — Mount Philo-
b&otus — River Asshs — Mount Thurium — Rivers Morius, Molus
— Assia — Departure for Thebes — Petra — Ocalea — Mazi — Ha-
liartus — Death of Lysander — River Lophis — Fountain Cissusa
— Orchalides — Mount Alopecum — Rivers Permessus, Olmeius —
Onchestus — Mount Faga, Phainicium, or Phicium — The Teneric
plain — Thebes  161

CHAPTER XIV.
BOJOTIA, EUBCEA.
Ypsili Rakhi — General geography of Bmotia — Rivers and foun
tains of Thebes — Cadmeia — Description of the city by Dicae-
archus and Pttusanias — Dimensions of the city — Seven Gates

CONTENTS. V
PAGE
— Departure for 'Egripo — Teumessus — Mount Siamata,, Hy-
patus — Glisas — River Thermodon — Harma — Mycalessus —
'Egripo, Chalets — Euripus — Bridge — Mount Kalogheritza —
Lelantum — Aulis — Cape Emperesium — Departure from 'Egripo
— Akhalia — Salganeus — Ancient road — Anthedon  218

CHAPTER XV.

From Anthedon to the Lake Paralimni — Cross Mount Ptoum —
Palea, Temple of Apollo Ptoius — Kokkino — Lake Copais —
Chasms of the Cephissus — Line of ancient Shafts above the
subterraneous River — Emissory — Valley of Larmes — La-
rymna, upper and lower — Return to Kokkino — Kardhitza,
Acreephium — Inscriptions — Athamantium — Copae — Katav6thra
of Mount Phicium — Ancient Canal between the lakes Acraephis
and Hylice — Hyle — Senzina — Lake Livadhi, Hylice — Return
to Thebes — Schcenus — Eleon  276

CHAPTER XVI.

From Thebes to Kokhla — Potniae — River Asopus — Platma —
Fountain Vergutiani — Kriakuki — Hysiae — Bubuka — Katzula,
Erythree — Scolus — Eteonus — Fountain Gargaphia — Platani —
Monument of Mardonius — Ancient roads from Plataea to
Athens and Megara — Fountain of Diana and rock of Actaon
— Sphragidium — Battle of Plattsa — Heroum of Androcrates —
Argiopius — The Island — Siege of Plataea in the Peloponnesian
Wat — Re-establishment of the walls under Cassander — He
roum, old and new — Description of Plataea by Pausanias —
Gate of Eleutherm  323

CHAPTER XVII.
B030TIA, ATTICA, MEGARIS.
Departure from Thebes — Therapnee — Scolus — Plain of Sialissi—
Panactum — St. Meletius — Derveno-khoria — Ghyfto-kastro,

VI CONTENTS. PAGE.
Olnoe — Myupoli, Eleuthera — Pass of Sarandaporo or Cephissus
— Plain of Eleusis and Thria — Rheiti — Temple of Venus Phila
— Dhafni, Temple of Apollo on Mount Pcecilum — Arrival at
Athens — 'Geography of the Megaris — Route from Eleusis to
Megara — Description of Megara by Pausanias — Long Walls
— Nisaea — Minoa — JEgosthena—Pagae — Erineia — Isus — Mount
Kandili, Cerata — Mount Kary'dhi — The Oneia — Polichne —
Tripodiscus — jEgeirusa — Geraneia — Cimolia — Scirone, rocks
Scironides  368

CHAPTER XVIII.
ATTICA, BCEOTIA.
Mount Fames — View from the summit — Departure from Athens
— Kifisia — Vrana. — Plain of Marathon — Suli — Tricorythus —
Temple of Nemesis — Evreokastro, Rhamnus — Grammatiko —
Varnava — Mount Mavronoro, Phelleus — Kalamo, Psaphis —
Mavrodhilisi, temple of Amphiaraus — Apostolus, Delphinium
— 'Oropo, Oropus — Sykamino — Dhilissi, Delium — Battle of
Delium — Skimatari — Grimadha, Tanayra — Rivers Lari and
Asopus — Battles of Tanagra and (Enophytm — 'Inia, (Enophytm
— Andritza, Pharm — Archaic inscriptions — Vlokho — Mounts
Soro, Sulla — Return to Thebes — Chalia — Cynoscephalm —
Grmas-stethus  416

CHAPTER XIX.

Departure from Thebes — Vale of the Kanavari — Rimokastro —
Lefka, Thespim — Leuctra — Battle of Leuctra — Paleopanaghia
— Pyrgaki, Ascra — Fountain Aganippe — Grove of the Muses —
Hippocrene, Olmeius, Permessus — Neokhori — Ceressus — Ta-
teza — Fountain of Narcissus — Xeronomi — Pyrgo on Mount
Korombili — Port Aliki — Kak6sia-, Thisbe — Vathy, Port of
Thisbe — Dobrena — Inscriptions at Kak6sia — Khosia — Monas
tery of Saint Taxiarches — Port Sarandi — Sipha; — Dobo —
Zalitza, Bulis — Thebae Corsica — Port Eutretus — Eutresis —
Arrival at Kyriaki  ,  477

CONTENTS. VU

CHAPTER XX.

PAGE
Kyriaki— Mount Helicon — Palea-khora— Monastery of St. Luke
of Stiris— Stiris and its fountain— Ambrysus — Metokhi Sto
lalo— Sidhiro-kafkhio — Aspra Spitia — Anticyra — Mount Cir-
phis — Dhesf ina — Medeon — Marathus — Cape Pharygium — My-
chus — Parnassia Nape — River Pleistus — Delphi — Its topo
graphy, antiquities, inscriptions, &c  526

CHAPTER XXI.
phocis, locris, .ayroLiA.
Departure from Delphi — Kriss6, Crissa— Xeropigadho — Cirrha —
River Pleistus — Salona, Amphissa — Latin inscription — Roads
from Salona — Athymia, Myonia — Lidhoriki — Steno — Vehlk-
hovo— Rivers Mega, Kokkino, and Morno — Khan of Paleuxari
— Monastery of Varnakova — Magula — Cross the Morno —
Plain of Pilala — Mount Rigani — 'Epakto, Naupactus — Ancient
geography of JEtolia and Locris — Athenian invasion — March
of the Spartan Eurylochus through Locris — (Eneon — JEgitium
— Potidania — Eupalium — Erythrm — Croeylium — Tichium —
Hyle — Tolophon — Phmstum — Apidoti — Ophionenses — Bomi —
Gallium — Pyra — Mount Corax — Eurytanes  582

TRAVELS

IN

NORTHERN GREECE.

CHAPTER X.

Zituni, Lamia — View of Melis, Thermopylae, and Mount (Eta
from Zituni — Mount Katavothra — Patratziki or Neopatra,
Hypata — Rivers Elladha, or Spercheius, and Vistritza, or
Inachus — Mnianes — (Etaei — tribes of the Malienses — Pkthi-
otae — Dolopes — Dryopes — Franzi — River Gurgo, Dyras —
Mavraneria, Melas — Trachis — Heracleia — Rivers Karvunaria,
or Asopus, and Phoenix — Anthele — Thermopylae — Alpeni —
Nieaea — Pundonitza — Military events at Thermopylae — Upper
Pass of Mount Callidromus, or Anopcea — Forts Tichius, Rho-
duntia, Callidromum.
Nov. 25. — Zrirovviov is a name remarkable from its
resemblance to the Arabic Zeitun, which means a
place of olive trees, and is repeatedly found in
countries where that language is spoken, but as
none of the names of Greece are derived from the
Arabic unless through the Turkish, as the Turks
have corrupted Zeitun into Isdun, and as Znroviov
is found among the bishoprics of the province of
VOL. TI. B

2 MELIS. [CHAP.
Larissa in the ninth century, there can be little
doubt that the name came into use with others
still existing, which are found in the Notitise Epis-
copatuum, and is not to be traced to an Oriental
origin. There are about 3000 Turks in the town,
and 2000 Greeks, who are poor, or at least afraid
of not appearing so. The district confines east
ward on that of Armyro, and is bordered in the
other directions by Neopatra, 'Agrafa, and Fer-
sala. It contains near 60 villages, of which the
population is almost entirely Greek.
The strength of the castle hill of Zituni, the
secure and convenient distance of the place from
the sea, and its abundant sources of water, point it
out at once as the position of an important Hellenic
city, which an inscription copied at Zituni, by Paul
Lucas, shows to have been Lamia1. And this is
amply confirmed by Livy and Strabo. The latter
places Lamia above the plain, which lies at the
head of the Maliac Gulf, at a distance of 30 stades
from the Spercheius2. Livy describes it as situated
on a height distant seven miles from Heracleia, of
which it commanded the prospect3, and as lying
1 IloXte 2efia<rTii<i)v Aapieiav 3 Eodem tempore quo Ro-
Mvaaika'tBav Hapapovov, <pvati mani Heracleam, Philippus La-
St ISlevofydvTOv, apcrfJQ zveKiv miam ex composito oppugna-
naX evvotag rfje «£ avrr/v. — bat  Intersunt septem
P. Lucas, Voyage dans la millia passuum et quia Lamia
Grece, &c. tome i. p. 405. quum posita est in tumulo, turn
2 'Airiyjii Be Aafitag 6 2?r£p- regionemeammaximedespectat
X^os Kepi TputKovTa (TTahlovQ, oppidum, qua breve interval-
virepKtipivrjQ irtSiov tivoq KaOri- lum videtur et omnia in con-
kovtoq £7" tov MaXtaKov k6Xkov. spectu sunt, &c. — Liv. 1. 36,
,— Strabo, p. 433. c. 25.

X.J MELIS. 3
on the route which led from Thermopylae through
the passes of Phthiotis to Thaumaci1.
The only remains I can find of the ancient city
are some pieces of the walls of the Acropolis, form
ing a part of those of the modern castle ; and some
small remains of the town walls constructed of
masonry of the third species, at the foot of the hill
beyond the extreme modern houses to the east
ward. On the opposite side of the town, a brisk
little river turns fourteen mills, situated one above
the other, on the slope of the hill. The same
method is practised at Dhomoko, but there with
only four mills.
The ancient importance of Lamia is shown by
its silver coins, and by the occurrence of its name
in ancient history, on some important occasions,
particularly in the year B.C. 323, when the Athe
nians, on the death of Alexander, were excited
by the " sibi mortifera facundia" of Demosthenes
to renew their struggle with Macedonia. Anti-
pater was at first unsuccessful, and retired into
Lamia, where he was besieged by the Athenians,
but their commander Leosthenes, having been
slain, and Antipater having received a reinforce
ment from Asia under Craterus, the Macedonians
were again enabled to meet the enemy in the field,
and terminated the war by a victory near Crannon2.
In the year B. C. 191, Lamia was besieged by
Philip, son of Demetrius ; Livy, in relating this
1 Liv. 1. 32, c. 4. V. supra, Polyb. 1. 9, c. 29. Pausan.
vol. i. p. 458. 1. 10, c. 3. Plutarch, in De-
2 Diodor. 1. 18, c. 9, et seq. mosth.
Arrian. ap. Phot. cod. 92.
B 2

4 ' MELIS. [CHAP.
transaction, takes notice of the rocky soil of Lamia,
which prevented the Macedonians from making
so rapid a progress in this. siege as their comrades,
who were similarly employed at Heracleia on the
opposite side ofthe plain1. In the following year
Lamia was taken by the Romans under Manius
Acilius Glabrio2.
The castle of Zituni commands a most beautiful
and interesting prospect; and being itself a remark
able point, is an excellent geographical station.
There is no other of equal altitude which compre
hends so complete a view of the country adjacent
to the head of the Maliac Gulf, or at least that
affords so much assistance in understanding the
history of the celebrated events which have oc
curred on this scene. Having the advantage to
day of a most diaphanous atmosphere, I easily re
cognize the places with which I. was familiar in
1802. The most striking part of the prospect is the
vast OEtcean range of mountains extending from
Callidromus above Thermopylae, as far westward as
the summit near Karpenisi named Velukhi, not far
to the left of which is seen Patratziki or Neopatra,
below one of the highest summits of the range ;
to the left of that kwn rise the stupendous preci
pices called Katavothra, which fall in a north
eastern direction to the plain of Zituni. In the
opposite quarter, towards the entrance of the gulf,
is seen Stylidha3, the port of Zituni ; and in a line
1 Liv. 1. 36, c. 25. » SrvXib'a.
" Id. 1.37, c. 5.

X-] MELIS. 5
with it the most westerly inlet of the sea, which
here advances to within three miles of the town.
Near the shore, on this side of Stylidha, appears
the village Aghia Marina ; and beyond Stylidha
the slope of Mount Othrys, as far as the entrance
of the Euhoic Straits. The promontory of Lithadha
in Euhoea forms a lofty peninsula in the center of
the gulf, to the right of which the view compre
hends a long reach in the Euhoic channel ; and at
its entrance the islands anciently called Lichades, to
the right of which is Mount Cnemis, with the village
of Mola at its foot. From hence, to the beginning
of the pass of Thermopylae, a narrow plain abound
ing with wood extends along the shore, behind
which are the hills below Pundonitza, which con
nect the mountains Cnemis and Callidromus, and
at their foot a remarkable rock, upon which I ob
served, on my former visit to this country, some
remains of ancient monuments. It is nearlv in a
line with the castle of Pundonitza, seven degrees
to the left of which appears the peak of Khlomo
above Talanda. Considerably to the right of Pun
donitza begins the precipitous termination of Mount
Callidromus above the salt springs, which gave
name to Thermopylae l.
This alone is the proper pass, for to the east
ward of it the hills, though now difficult to pene
trate on account of the woods, form a very regular
slope from the summit of Callidromus to the para-
lian plain, about Mola ; the above-mentioned rock
1 See the plans of the Pass, Thermopylae, at the end of this
and of the country around volume.

6 MELIS. [CHAP.
with the ancient remains, being at the foot of a
part of this slope, is not very near the pass, and
cannot therefore be the site of any of the places in
the pass mentioned by Herodotus ; it may indicate
perhaps the position of Nicsea1. Thereabout it
must have been that Hydarnes descended to the
rear of Leonidas. The eastern extremity of the
pass was a little to the left or east of the derveni,
or guard-house, from whence to the upper or
western salt-springs, precipices overhang the pass,
gradually increasing in height from the former
position to the latter, immediately over which
they are highest. Above these precipices there
is still an elevated country of varied surface, gra
dually rising to the foot of the snowy and fir-clad
summit of the mountain ; and in this place, just
under the highest peak, stands the village of
Dhrakospilia 2.
Below the district of Dhrakospilia, to the west
ward, extends a regular and cultivated declivity,
which belongs to another village named Dha-
masta. 3, and reaches to the Asopus, and Thermo
pylae, terminating at the latter in a long stony
slope corresponding to the plain of Anthele of
Herodotus, which lies between the upper salt
source of Thermopylae proper, and another pass
to the westward where the road is confined be
tween cliffs and a marsh, and where are also some
sources of hot salt water. But this latter pass
lying between the plain of Anthele and the Aso-

1 Polyb. 1. 10, c. 42; 1. 17, ' ApawainXid.
c. 1.7. Strabo, p. 128. 3 Aapaord.

X.] MELIS. 7
pian plain, may be turned through the slope of
Dhamasta. So that supposing the sea and marshes
to have occupied all that which now forms a plain
in front of Thermopylae, the real pass will be re
duced to the space between the derveni and the
old or upper sources, or in other words to the
space eastward of the plain of Anthele, which is
now occupied by the course of the eastern salt
springs and their deposit. Dhamasta is situated
at the head of some cultivated declivities at the
foot of a precipice under the upper heights of the
mountain, and around it there is a considerable
tract of vineyards. The cultivated slope imme
diately below the village is separated by some
shrubby steeps from the Asopian or Trachinian
plain. To the right of Dhamasta is seen a little
table land on the mountain, upon which, among
the woods, stands a monastery of the Panaghia,
and near it to the right, is an acclivity reaching to
the crest of the Zygos, or connecting ridge, which
unites Mount Callidromus with the great CEtaean
summits, and over which passes the modern road
from Zituni to Salona. This Zygos is cultivated
in patches quite to the top. The summit of Par
nassus makes its appearance above a shrubby
height ; one of the lowest of those bordering the
plain, and which to the westward is bounded by
the precipitous ravine of the Asopus, which river
here traverses the mountain nearly in the same
oblique direction in which it crosses the plain.
To the right of the Asopus for two miles are seen
the great precipices from which the city Trachis
derived its name, and which about the middle

8 MELIS. [CHAP.
advance considerably into the plain. Above them
are seen some small villages, situated on cultivated
slopes, extending as far as the great summit which
is called Patriotiko, or Patratzikiotiko, from its
being immediately above Neopatra, or Patratzik.
This summit is covered with firs and other
trees. Between the cliffs of Trachis or Hera
cleia, to the westward, and the still higher
precipices called Katavothra, where the valley is
narrowest, a cultivated declivity advances into
the Trachinian plain. Here on the edge of the
plain are the villages Vardhates, Alpospata, and
Franzi. A remarkable chasm separates the south
easternmost summit of the Patriotiko from the
Katavothra, and terminates to the left of the
heights of Franzi in a ravine which descends into
the plain near Alpospata, half way between the
end of the Trachinian Rocks and the point of
Franzi. Here and at the foot of the gorge of the
Asopus, the land of Trachis is highest, and from
these two points it subsides gradually to the Sper-
cheius. This river is now known by the name of
Elladha l ; Mount Callidromus is called Saromata,
— the Asopus, Karvunaria.
A pezodhromo well acquainted with all this
country, informs me that there is a road of not
above two hours along the upper region of the
mountain from Dhrakospilia to Pundonitza, which
he has often traversed. It is undoubtedly by the
same route that Hydarnes crossed the mountain,
and the pezo may possibly be a descendant of his
1 'EWdSa.

X.J MELIS. 9
guide ; for neither the barbarians of the east nor
of the north seem to have colonized much in Me
lis, if we may judge by the names of places, which
are chiefly of Greek derivation.
Livy thus describes the CEtaean barrier ' : " These
mountains which divide Greece in the middle, as
Italy is divided by the ridge of the Apennine,
extend in a continued line from Leucas and the
western sea to that on the eastern side of Greece ;
they are so uneven and rocky, that not only
armies, but even ordinary pedestrians find a diffi
culty in crossing them by the few paths which
they afford. At the eastern extremity they are
named CEta, and their highest summit Callidro-
mon, at the foot of which, towards the Maliac
Gulf, there is a pass only sixty paces in breadth.
This is the only military road which affords the
means of transit to an army, when it meets with
no impediment from an opponent. Hence the
•place is denominated Pylse, and sometimes Ther
mopylae, the latter name being derived from some
hot waters, which have their sources in the pass
itself." Strabo agrees with Livy in considering the
proper CEta to have been the eastern portion of
the ridge which stretches across the continent
from the Ambracic Gulf, as well as in describing
the summit nearest to Thermopylae as the highest
point of CEta2 ; in which latter opinion, however,
they were both mistaken, Mount Patriotiko being
1 Liv. 1. 36, c. 15. rarov <5e Karat rdc. Qep/wirvXas.
2 Tpuyy (.'cu v\pt]\6v, viprjXo- — Strabo, p. 428.

10 MELIS. [CHAP.
considerably higher. Strabo further remarks, that
CEta was 200 stades in length, that it terminated to
wards the sea in precipices which left only a narrow
passage for the road from Thessaly into Locris, and
that the pass was called PylaB, or Stena, or Thermo
pylae, which last appellation was derived from some
hot waters, sacred to Hercules. He adds that the
mountain which rises above the pass bore the name of
Callidromum, though some gave this denomination
to the whole range, extending through iEtolia and
Acarnania to the Ambracic Gulf; and that near
Thermopylae, within the Straits, were several for
tresses, namely, Nicaea on the sea shore of Locris,
— higher up Teichius, and Heracleia, which was
founded by the Lacedaemonians in a position six
stades distant from the ancient Trachis, and Rho-
duntia, in a strong situation. The geographer
then subjoins some remarks borrowed from Hero
dotus, who, as his object was that of tracing the
progress of Xerxes and his host through the eastern
part of Greece, confined himself to a description
of the eastern extremity of that belt of country
which is referred to by Livy and Strabo. After
having described the march of the Persian army
through Thessaly and the Achaian Phthiotis,
Herodotus states that Xerxes then entered Melis,
near a gulf where the sea ebbs and flows. " Here,"
he continues, " is a plain, large in one part, and
in another very narrow. High and inaccessible
mountains, called the Trachinian rocks, surround
the land of Melis. The first city in the gulf,
proceeding from Achaia, is Anticyra, near which
the river Spercheius, flowing from the iEnianes,

X.J MELIS. 1 1
falls into the sea. About 20 stades from it is
another river, named Dyras, which is reported to
have first made its appearance to relieve Hercules
when he was burning. Twenty stades farther is
a third river called Melas, five stades distant from
which is the city Trachis. Between the moun
tains where Trachis stands and the sea, the plain
is widest ; its whole surface contains 22,000 ple-
thra. In the mountain which encircles the Tra
chinian land, there is an opening J to the south
ward of Trachis, from which the river Asopus
issues, and then flows along the foot of the moun
tains. To the south of the Asopus is a small
river, named Phoenix, from whence to Thermo
pylae the distance is 15 stades2."
A comparison of this passage with the topogra
phical sketches at the end of this volume, will, it
is hoped, carry with it the conviction, that the
names mentioned by Herodotus are there correctly
placed, notwithstanding the surprising change
which appears to have taken place in consequence
of the accumulation of soil brought down from the
upper country by the rivers, especially the Sper-
cheius. The Asopus is recognized by its Sia<r<pd^,
or rocky gorge, through which it issues into the
plain : between it and the Spercheius are found
the two streams corresponding to the Melas and
Dyras, which now, instead of falling separately
into the sea, unite, and then discharge their
waters, as does the Asopus itself, into the Sper
cheius. The latter, instead of meeting the coast
1 SMa<l><#. 2 Herodot. 1. 7, c. 198.
13

12 MELIS. [CHAP.
nearly opposite to Lamia, as it appears to have
done in the time of the Persian war, not only re
ceives the Dyras, Melas, and Asopus, as tributary
streams, but continues its course on a line parallel
to the pass of Thermopylae \ at a distance of a
mile from the hot sources. It then forms a delta
in that new plain which has been created beyond
the pass, and which has thus caused the head of
the gulf to be removed three or four miles from its
ancient position. The consequence is, that all the
lower plain, although intersected with marshes at
all seasons, and scarcely passable in the winter,
affords in summer a road through it from Zituni
to Mola, which leaves Thermopylae two or three
miles on the right, and renders it of little or no
importance as a pass in that season. This I had
particularly occasion to remark on my former visit
to Thermopylae and Zituni, which was in the month
of July.
The inclination of the new course of the Sper-
cheius, in the direction of Thermopylae, and to
wards the south-western corner of the head of the
gulf seems connected with the form of the high
land on either side of the plain. As the CEtaean
chain rises much more, abruptly than the ridge on
which Lamia stood, it is probable that when the
gulf extended as far westward as the meridian of
Lamia, the deepest water was towards the southern
shore, whence the new plain formed itself more
speedily on the northern than on the southern
1 The plan being intended the river have not been re-
only to describe the pass of garded.
Thermopylae, the windings of

X.J MELIS. 13
side, and the new stream had therefore a tendency
towards Thermopylae. So copious, however, is
the deposit from the salt springs, and so rapid the
formation of new soil below them, that this cause
has been sufficient, together with the alluvion of
Mount Callidromus, aided perhaps by the Asopus,
to prevent the Spercheius from approaching nearer
than a mile from the foot of the mountain. The
increase of land at the head of the gulf is still
rapidly continuing ; for I remember to have ob
served, on nry former journey, some of those
basins for making salt which are common on the
coast of Greece, so far removed from the shore
that they had been abandoned, and new salt-pans
had been constructed nearer the sea.
Nov. 26. — This day, at 12.45, leaving Zituni
for Neopatra, we traverse the plain to a bridge near
Franzi, crossing some rice-grounds, which, though
they have not been cultivated for some years, im
pede us by the little mounds of earth which serve
to divide the ground into small squares for irriga
tion : we afterwards follow the bed of a canal
(ah\aKi) made for the same purpose, and at 1.23
cross the Spercheius. The bridge consists of planks
strewn with earth and resting upon trunks of trees
supported by the piers of a stone bridge, which
was carried away by an inundation. From hence
we resume a winding course among corn-fields,
and at 1.55, at the foot of the hills below the vil
lage of Franzi, join the route from Salona to Neo
patra. Here is a mill turned by a very consider
able stream of water, which descends to the Elladha.
Mount Callidromus is well seen from hence in pro-

14 7ENIANES. [CHAP.
file, giving a perfect idea of the track pursued by
the Persians after they had attained the part of the
mountain near Dhrakospilia ; for this practicable
ground, which comparatively may be called a
plain, occupies the entire face of the mountain be
tween the summit and the precipices, overhanging
Thermopylae, and beyond this elevated region there
seems no longer any great difficulty in descending
to the positions of Nicaea and Alpeni. We now
follow the foot of the magnificent precipices named
Katavothra, and at 2.17 leave the small village of
Kostalexi, a little above us on the left. At 2.35
pass along the edge of another named Komo-
ladhes, below which there is a small wood of
plane-trees. Here the Turk, proprietor of the
village, advances from his pyrgo, and invites us
to lodge with him. The river is at a small dis
tance on the right, but leaves a broad plain on the
opposite side ; the valley is narrowest opposite to
Franzi. Our road now continues, as far as Neo-
patra, along a stony slope formed by the torrents
descending from the gorges of Mount Katavothra,
which rises like an immense wall, shading the
road from the afternoon sun for several hours, like
the similar precipices at Mistra. But the Kata
vothra are much higher than the abrupt termina
tions of Mount Taygetum in the Spartan valley.
We arrive in the town at 4.
Neopatra, by the Turks called Badrajik, stands
partly at the head of a long stony slope, similar to
that below Mount Katavothra, and partly upon a
ridge which rises at the back of the slope, termi
nating above in a steep detached summit of a

X.J JENIANES. 15
peaked form. On this height are the ruins of a
small castle of Lower Greek construction, or per
haps a work of the Franks in the fourteenth cen
tury, when Neopatra was conquered from the
Greek despot of Western Greece by the Catalans,
and became a part of the duchy of Athens under
the Spanish sovereigns of Sicily until Thessaty
was overrun by the Turks. The ridge is pro
tected on either side by a ravine, in which flows
a torrent, (psv/na) ; that on the west has a wide
gravelly bed ; the eastern is shaded by plane trees,
and waters numerous gardens around a suburb
which stands below the ridge on that side. These
streams do not fail in summer, but after turning
many mills, irrigate plantations of tobacco in the
plain. The Spercheius, or Elladha, is diverted
from the general course in which it descends to
the sea from the westward by the long projection
of the hill of Neopatra, which forms a diminishing
ridge almost as far as the river's bank.
The town is inhabited by about 500 Turkish and
150 Greek families. Their proportion accounts for
the prevalence of the Turco-Greek name, IIorpaT-
Zwi, in preference to that of Neopatra. The latter
however is well known to be the right appellation,
and the bishop is styled twv Newv Ilarpwv. Almost
all the power is in the hands of an Albanian Bey,
placed here by Aly Pasha. The district contains
between 30 and 40 villages, all Greek ; not long
ago there were 70, so great have been the emigra
tions of late from this part of the country. The
major part of these villages are in the subjacent
plain. The town contains one church besides the

16 /ENIANES. [CHAP.
metropolitan, and a third unfinished, which the
Greeks have lately been permitted by Aly Pasha
to rebuild. The streams and gardens of the town,
and its lofty position are very agreeable, but the
air is said to be unwholesome in the summer and
autumn, which the natives ascribe to the exhala
tions of the tobacco plant, though undoubtedly
the rice-grounds, as at Zituni, equally contribute,
and probably the overhanging mountains, as well
as the want of a good Imbat in the Maliac Gulf,
which is too narrow and too much excluded from
the open sea by surrounding mountains to receive
in perfection that great corrector of the air in the
maritime parts of Greece.
There is no direct road over the mountains from
Neopatra to Salona : the usual route falls into
that from Zituni to Salona at the ascent of the
CEtaean pass. That from Neopatra into Thessaly
passes the Elladha nearly opposite to the village of
Ghenokladha1, and crosses the opposite hill at the
derveni of Karya, so called from a small village
of that name to the left of the road : it then de
scends upon Taukli, near which it joins the road
from Zituni to Dhomoko. The hills which bound
the valley of Neopatra to the north are included in
its district, but immediately beyond them begins
that of 'Agrafa. Not far above Neopatra the plain
widens to the breadth of five miles, and here the
Elladha is joined by the Vistritza, a large branch
which descends with great rapidity through a
gorge dividing the Patriotiko from a peaked
mountain lying between the former and Mount
1 TtvoxXdla.

X.J .ENIANES. 17
Velukhi. The Vistritza crosses the plain obliquely
in a wide gravelly bed, and joins the Elladha im
mediately opposite to Neopatra, at a distance of
three or four miles. Its waters, like those of the
Elladha, serve to irrigate some rice-fields in the
lowest part of the valley.
About ten miles above Neopatra, the valley of
the Spercheius is reduced to narrow limits by the
approximation of the two ranges of hills. Karpe-
nisi is reckoned nine hours from hence, its position
lying to the left of the summit of Velukhi, near the
sources of a branch of the Aspropotamo which joins
the main stream near the monastery of Tetania.
The sources of the Elladha are on the northern and
eastern sides of the same mountain, which seems
clearly therefore to be the ancient Tymphrestus ;
for Strabo states that the Spercheius had its origin
in Tymphrestus, and that Mount Othrys extended
from the Maliac Gulf to Tymphrestus and Dolopia1.
The two most distant tributaries of this river flow
from Neokhorio of Kostriava in 'Agrafa, and from
Mavrilo in the district of Neopatra. These streams
are joined by other branches from the summit, in
termediate between CEta and Tymphrestus, but by
none of any magnitude from the Othryan range of
mountains. The Vistritza, which is almost as large
1 . . . . rfjg "OQpvog, opovg Toil de 27T£p)(£ioO fiEfivrifievog
irpbg apxTov Kupivov rrj <I>0iui- (Homerus scil.) iroXXaKig, itg
TtSi, b/xopov Be rip TvfjKpprjOTty ETTi-xwpiov iroTCt/xov, rag irlfyag
T(5 opei Kal rolg A6Xo\piv, ekeI- e\ovtoq ek TvfMppno-rov, Apvo-
dev Se irapaTELvovrog Eig to. ttikov opovg  ixhiciovTOQ
irXr\aiov tov M.aXiaKOv koXttov . Be -nXnalov QeppowvXiSv fiEra^v
 avTuiv Knl Aa/xlag. — Strabo,
p. 433.
VOL. II. C -J-

18 jENIANES. [chap.
as the Elladha itself, originates in a ridge which
stretches in a south-easterly direction, uniting Ve
lukhi with Vardhusi, and which, from its forests
of beach, is known by the name of Oxies.
There are many large quadrangular blocks of
stone, and foundations of ancient walls, on the
heights of Neopatra, as well as in the buildings of
the town, particularly about the mosques and foun
tains : several of these remains are of white mar
ble, of a species different from the Attic, and which
was probably quarried in the adjacent mountains.
I observed some shafts of columns of this material,
but could not find a capital. In the metropolitan
church, which is a wretched old building with a fall
ing roof, there is a handsome shaft of white marble,
and on the outside ofthe wall an inscription in small
characters of the best times : of which I was unable
to decipher any more than the three last words —
o7ro "YiraTaiwv navrojv. Another stone, inscribed in
a similar character, is sufficiently legible to show
that it recorded grants of proxenia to foreign bene
factors. As in one of these records the Hypataei,
and in another the council, or magistrates of the
ZEnianes, conferred the favour1, we may infer not
1 The following are some parts of it : —  • £ "tirardiot
iBoo-av Trpo£,E{yiav  {ETTL)vo).dav 'iyKT-qaiv iravriav
avroi kcu (iyyovoig) .... kcu r aXXa irdvra oaa Kal rdig
dXXoi(g irpo£,ivoig) 
' Ap-)(pvTt»v 'Avrtvoov .... 'Apiuriav . . aioEXdov
irpoE,Eviag <i>aivlov
Aitov 'AXE^dvBpov
tS>v Alvidvu>v eBiuke Trpo£,Evlav —loaiarpdru $>iXlov 'AOrjvaia)
(iyy)vot rag irpo£,Ev(lag At)/caiapxos 'A/cptWoc, Xlvfip'iag KaXX .
V. Inscription, No. 18.

X.J ^NIANES. 19
only that Neopatra is the site of Hypata, but that
Hypata was in the country of the vEnianes, and
probably their chief town : the grant in one case
was perhaps confined to Hypata, and in the other
extended to the whole district. The latter inscrip
tion is on a broken block of white marble, lying
under a plane-tree near a fountain in the Jewish
burying-ground, and not far above the western
torrent ; on the opposite side of which an ancient
sepulchre was lately excavated. It produced no
thing but bones ; but it serves to confirm the very
natural supposition that the city was bounded by
the two torrents. If Hypata was the chief town of
the iEnianes, we have an obvious reason for the
non-existence of any coins of Hypata ; the money
coined here having probably all had the inscrip
tion Aiviavoov.
The length of 200 stades which Strabo assigns
to the proper CEta, seems to leave little doubt that
the Mount Patriotiko, which is the highest point
in this part of the country, is the proper summit
of CEta ; and it is not improbable that the name
Hypata may have been originally Hypceta, as
having been situated immediately under (Eta.
But there was also a city CEta, said to have been
founded by Amphissus, son of Apollo and Dryope1,
where it is to be supposed that the beautiful coins
with the legend OiraiW were struck. As Herodotus
and Thucydides distinguish the CEtaei from the Tra-
chinii, and as Stephanus describes (Eta to have been
a city of the Melienses, we have good reason for
1 Antonin. Liberal, c. 32.
c 2

20 ^NIANES. [CHAP.
believing that it stood at the foot of Mount Patri
otiko, towards the Trachinian plain. It was the
same place, perhaps, as the Upov aarv, to which,
according to Callimachus, the Hyperborean offer
ings were sent from Dodona in their way to De-
lus1, and which gave name apparently to the Hie-
renses, one of the three tribes of the Malienses 2.
(Eta may have been called the sacred city, from
the worship of Hercules, and because near it, on
the mountain, was Pyra, where Hercules was said
to have died on the burning pile, — a place of such
sacred celebrity, that the Roman Consul, Acilius,
ascended thither from Heracleia to offer sacrifice,
continuing his route from thence across CEta and
Corax to Naupactus 8.
The two other tribes of the Malienses were the
Paralii and Trachinii, the former of whom evi
dently occupied the maritime towns of Anticyra,
Phalara, and Echinus, the latter the opposite
mountains, with the adjacent part of the plain
round Heracleia. As to Lamia, although once
a city of the Paralii, it would seem afterwards
to have been altogether separated from Melis ;
for we find coins both of the MaXdojv and
Aa/iuuv. Echinus 4 preserves its name, slightly
corrupted into Akhino, Phalara was probably the
modern Stylidha, and Anticyra, which stood at
the mouth of the Spercheius 5, should now be
1 AEVTEpOV hpov &.UTV KOI oipEa MnXiBog a'irig.
Hymn, in Delum. v. 287.
2 Thucyd. 1. 3, c. 92. s Herodot. 1. 7, c. 198.
3 Liv. 1. 36, c. 30. Strabo', p. 428.
• Scymn. Ch. v. 602.

X.J

jENIANES.

sought for towards the middle of the plain below
Zituni. There were some other towns of the
Malienses, the names of which only are preserved,
without any indication of exact locality, such as
Colaceia \ iEgoneia 2, and Irus, or Ira 3.
With these particulars as to the position of the
Malienses and iEnianes, there is little difficulty in
adjusting the local distribution of the other small
districts, which were surrounded by Doris, Locris,
Thessaly, and iEtolia. Their exact boundaries
cannot easily be defined, but their relative situa
tion may be inferred from that of their cities.
Included between the south-eastern extremity of
the Thessalian plains and Melis were the Phthi-
otae, whose towns have not been named by Homer.
Their capital at that time was probably Pharsalus;
in latter ages, when Phthiotis extended to the
Pagasaean Gulf, and maritime commerce was in its
meridian, Thebae Phthioticae rivalled Pharsalus.
Westward of the Pharsalia was Dolopia, a
mountainous country, which, falling to the great
Thessalian plain, extended westward to Atha-
mania, and bordered southward on iEtolia and
the iEnianes. It corresponded to the northern and
eastern part of the modern 'Agrafa ; its prin
cipal town is not specified in ancient history.
The situation of Dryopis is exactly indicated by a
passage of Strabo already referred to, which shows
it to have been adjacent to Mount Tymphrestus,

1 Theopomp. ap. Athen, 1. in AlywvEia.
6, c. 16. 3 Schol. in Lycophr. ibid.
2 Lycophr. v. 903. Stephan. Stephan. in"Ipa, "\pog.

22 ^NIANES. [CHAP.
now Velukhi ; whence, on comparing this fact
with other geographical data which have been
mentioned, the general inference may be drawn,
that the Dryopes occupied the upper valleys of the
Spercheius, and the iEnianes the lower, as far as
the entrance into the plains of Melis, near the
modern Franzi. The iEnianes derived their name
perhaps from Anias, which, as it often occurs
simply, or in composition as a river's name, both
in Greece and Italy, would seem to have been a
generic word for river in the Pelasgic tongue. There
is some reason to believe, from a story related by
Plutarch, that the great branch of the Elladha,
called Vistritza, was anciently named Inachus.
He states, that in the last migration of the iEni
anes, they removed from Crissa to the country on
a river Inachus, which was partly occupied by
Inachii and Achaei, and that the iEnianes ac
quired this portion when Hyperochus, king of the
Inachii, had been slain by Phemius, king of the
iEnianes1. Nov. 27. — At 1.30 p.m., setting out from Neo
patra we descend by a path which conducts along
the side of the mountain above the lower suburb,
where on the skirts of the upper town, the remains
1 Plutarch, Qu. Gr. 13. lanthus of Attica slew Xanthus,
Phemius killed Hyperochus in king of Bceotia. Hyperochus
single combat with a sling ; was followed by a dog. Phe-
for which reason a slinger is inius exclaimed against his corn-
represented on some of the ing to the encounter with an
coins of the iEnianes. Ac- attendant ; and as he turned
cording to Plutarch, Phemius round, in consequence of the
prevailed over his adversary in exclamation, discharged the
the same manner in which Me- fatal bullet.

X.J MELIS. 23
of a very massive Hellenic wall are observable on
the brow of the slope, showing that Hypata occu
pied exactly the site of the present town. On a
rock close by a piece of ancient wall, on the
side of the eastern torrent, are two niches ; one of
these is in the form of a cockle-shell, the other,
which is perpendicularly above it, is quadrilateral.
On the descent of the hills, beyond the gardens
of the lower Makhala., is a handsome wood of elms,
chestnuts, and other trees, and many sources of
water by the road side. We enter the valley
through a wood of plane trees, at 2 join the road
by which we came, and retrace it as far as the
point near Franzi, where we arrive at 4. From
thence an ascent of a quarter of an hour brings us
to the village. On the edge of the plain a la
bourer was sowing barley, and another behind
him, ploughing it in. In the lower level very
little besides maize and rice is grown. The
cottage in which I am lodged is neat and com
fortable. The owner of it asks my servant secretly
whether it is true, as reported in the village, that
all the plain belongs to me, and that I am come
to look at the state of it; but, adds he, "When
will he come with his palikaria and take pos
session ?"
Nov. 28. — departing from Franzi this morning
at 7.52, we descend the hill obliquely, and cross
at 8.4, on the edge of the plain, a wide avlaki,
or artificial channel, which conducts a deep and
rapid stream towards the mill on our left, which I
mentioned on the 26th. From the mill the stream
descends directly to the Elladha, but the water is

24 MELIS. [CHAP.
for the most part consumed in watering plan
tations of cotton and maize. It is a derivation
from the Gurgo-potamo, a torrent which descends
from the great chasm of Mount (Eta, between the
Katavothra and Mount Patriotiko, described on
the 25th.
We now enter the plain which below Franzi ex
pands to a breadth of six or eight miles, and pro
ceed in the direction of the rocks of Trachis, by
which I mean those near the site of that city, for
as Herodotus states, that all the lofty mountains
which surrounded this plain were called the Tra
chinian rocks1, it would seem that he meant to
include among them the precipices of Mount Ka
tavothra, which were four or five miles from the
site of Trachis. At 8.15 we cross the Gurgo-
potamo, a clear, rapid, perennial stream, which,
after passing through Moskokhori, joins the Elladha
two miles below that village. The Trachinian plain
is little cultivated, and much overgrowTn with agnus-
castus and oleander. At 8.25 Alpospata, a small
village of fifteen or twenty houses, is a quarter of a
mile on the right. We here cross a small rivulet
running down into the plain. At 8.32 we are at
the low point of hill which appears from Zituni
to project into the plain to the right of the rocks
of Trachis. It is commanded at the back by a
round hill, behind which a gentle slope ascends to
the foot of some great precipices, which are a con
tinuation of the- Katavothra. On the slope stands

1 oupEct v^vXd Kal iifiaTa ' yr\v, Tprfxiviai Trirpai kclXe-
irfpiKXijtEt iraaav Trjv MnXlBa ofiEvai. — Herodot. 1. 7, c. 198.

X.J MELIS. 25
the village of Dhyo-vunia (two hills). The round
height has much the appearance of the site of an
ancient Acropolis, but a man of Alpospata, of whom
I inquire, knows of no remains of ancient walls
there, nor can I perceive any, though we make the
semi-tour of the hill at no great distance. It may,
nevertheless, be the site of the city (Eta, or Upov
ao-rv of Callimachus, for it lies immediately
at the foot of the great summit of CEta, and is
also very near the borders of the plain of Melis.
Alpospata occupies the lowest declivity of the hill
on the north-eastern side. Proceeding in the same
direction, at 8.41 we have the small village of
Vardhates half a mile on the right, at the foot of
the hill, and at a few paces on the left of the road
an ancient tumulus, near the angle where the
rocks of Trachis begin to overhang the plain. At
8.46 cross a streamlet running from right to left
in the direction of those precipices, and at 8.52
arrive at the foot of the rocks, which rise to the
height of four or five hundred feet with great mag
nificence and beauty, the bareness of the rock being
relieved at intervals by patches of green shrubs
hanging over it. Continuing along the foot of the
precipices, we arrived at 8.59 at their most project
ing point, as observed from Zituni, on either side
of which are several sources, issuing from below
the rocks, and collecting into two streams which
meet below the projection. The united river flows
from thence across the plain in the direction of
Moskokhori, a little above which village it joins
the Gurgo-potamo. The sources and river are
called the Mavra-neria ; the streamlet, which we

26 MELIS. [CHAP.
crossed at 8.46, is a branch of it. It seems clear
that the Gurgo is the Dyras, and the Mavra-neria
the Melas, of which word the modern name is a
synonym. In the time of Herodotus these two
streams, which now unite and fall into the Sper
cheius, discharged themselves separately into the
sea. A little before arriving at the projecting
point, the road, in order to avoid the rivers and
springs, ascends a steep rocky slope, which at this
place forms the base of the rocks. It continues thus
passing just above the springs till 9.3, when it
again enters the level at the foot of the rocks.
From hence for half a mile onwards, towards the
gorge of the Asopus, there are many catacombs
excavated in the side of the perpendicular rocks.
Some of these have narrow entrances, others are
square and open, and one has a curved roof.
Within they are (at least all those I entered) plain
sepulchral chambers, small and low. These cata
combs and their distance from the sources of the
Mavra-neria, agreeing with that of five stades,
which Herodotus places between the river Melas
and Trachis, determine the position of this city ;
the direction which the rocks take from the pro
jecting point to the Asopus, equally justifies his
remark, that the Asopus was to the south of
Trachis. Fifty-four years after the events described by
Herodotus, or in the year B. C. 426, which was the
sixth of the Peloponnesian war, Trachis received a
colony of Lacedaemonians, in consequence of a
complaint made by the Trachinii in conjunction
with their neighbours of Doris, from whom the

X.J MELIS. 27
Lacedaemonians were supposed to derive their
origin, that they were harassed by the surrounding
CEtsei, and no longer able to defend themselves1.
Thucydides, from whom we learn this fact, asserts
that Heracleia was situated at a distance of forty
stades from Thermopylae, and of twenty from the
sea, which latter number, if it be not below the
truth, shows that the sea still reached at that time
to the western extremity of the heights of Thermo
pylae. After the defeat of Antiochus at Thermo
pylae, B.C. 191, Heracleia was besieged and taken
from the iEtolians by the Romans under Acilius,
and the circumstances of this conquest, as ex
tracted from Polybius by Livy, are well illustrated
by the topography. The consul having divided
his army into four bodies, placed one of them on
the Asopus, near the gymnasium, another near the
citadel, a third at the temple of Diana, on the
banks of the Melas, and the fourth towards the
Maliac gulf. The approach was most difficult in
the last direction, which is accounted for by another
remark of the historian, namely, that the plain of
Heracleia was marshy, and abounded in lofty trees.
These, however, were very useful to the Romans,
who, finding moreover every other kind of building
materials necessary for their works in the deserted
houses of the suburbs, speedily constructed towers,
battering-rams, and other implements used by the
ancients in the attack of fortified places2. The
1 Thucyd. 1. 3, c. 92. alto et undique praecipiti habet.
2 Sita est Heraclea in radi- Contemplatus omnia (Consul)
cibus CEtse montis : ipsa in quae noscenda erant, quatuor
campo, arcem imminentem loco simul locis adgredi urbem con-

28 MELIS. [CHAP.
iEtolians, nevertheless successfully maintained
their positions in all the four quarters of attack
for twenty-four days, when the consul, finding that
the enemy's numbers and efforts were diminishing,
resolved upon a general attack of the lower town,
first deceiving the enemy by a feigned relaxation
on his part, and then making a general assault in
the fourth watch of the night. The iEtolians were
surprised, and retired into the citadel. The next
day the consul, after allowing his troops to plunder
the town for some hours, divided them into two
bodies ; one of these he led by a circuitous route
round the foot ofthe mountain to a rocky summit1,
which was equal to the citadel in height, and was
separated from it only by a chasm so narrow, that the
two summits were within the range of a missil e2 . The
stituit ; a flumine Asopo, qua benigne ad omne genus operum
et gymnasium est, L. Valerium materiam subpeditabat, turn
operibus atque obpugnationi quia refugerant intra maenia
prasposuit : arcem extra muros, ^Etoli, deserta, quae in vesti-
quae frequentius prope quam bulo urbis erant, tecta in varios
urbs habitabatur, T. Sempro- usus non tigna modo et tabulas
nio Longo obpugnandam dedit: sed laterem quoque et casmenta
a sinu Maliaco, quae aditum et saxa varise magnitudinis
baud facilem pars habebat, M. praebebant.- — Liv. 1. 36, c. 22.
Baebium, ab altero amniculo, ' This summit appears in the
quern Melana vocant, adversus reign of Justinian to have been
Dianse templum, Ap. Claudium occupied by a fortress called
obposuit : Horum magno cer- Mycopolis. — Procop. de jEdif.
tamine intra paucos dies turres 1. 4, c. 2.
arietesque et alius omnis ad- 2 Revocatos inde a medio
paratusobpugnandarumurbium ferme die milites, quum in duas
perficitur. Et quum ager He- divisisset partes, unam radici-
racleensis paluster omnis fre- bus montium circumduci ad
quensque proceris arboribus, rupem jussit, quae fastigio alti-

X.J MELIS. 29
occupation of this height was to be the signal to the
Romans in the town to ascend against the citadel,
but the iEtolians were now disheartened, and the
citadel being crowded with women and children,
and without any preparation for a further defence,
they did not wait for the assault, but surrendered
at the consul's discretion.
It seems quite clear from this account that the
city occupied the low ground between the rivers
Karvunaria and Mavra-neria, extending from the
one to the other, as well as a considerable distance
into the plain in a north-eastern direction. The
citadel stood on the summit of the same precipice
in the lower part of which are the catacombs. Its
distance above the town justifies the words extra
muros, which the historian applies to it, and may
explain also the assertion of Strabo, that Heracleia
was six stades distant from the ancient Trachis ;
for although the town of Heracleia seems to have
occupied the same position as the Trachis of Hero
dotus, the citadel, which according to Livy was
better inhabited in the iEtolian war than the city,
may very possibly have been the only inhabited
part of Heracleia two centuries later. The Latin
historian has not left us the means of judging of
the route taken by the Roman division which
seized upon the summit near the citadel, — whether
tudinis par, media valle velut consul ab urbe eseensurus in
abrupta ab arce erat ; sed adeo arcem, signumab iis quiabtergo
propegeminatacacuminaeorum in rupem evasuri sunt, expec-
montium sunt, ut ex vertice tabat. Non tulere qui in arce
altero conjici tela in arcem pos- erat, iEtoli, &c. — Liv. 1. 36,
sint : cum dimidia parte mUitum c. 24.

30 MELIS. [CHAP.
by the ravine of the Asopus, or round the western
end of the rocks near Vardhates. I am informed
that some vestiges of the citadel of Heracleia still
remain, but they are not visible from below ; and
as it would require a long detour on foot to reach
them, I was under the necessity of giving up the
attempt. The marshy plain, which in the consulship of
Acilius, occupied the space between the north-
em wall of Heracleia and the shore of the Ma
liac Gulf, we may suppose to have been nar
rower and more difficult at an earlier period,
when Heracleia consequently more completely
commanded the passes from Thessaly into Southern
Greece, as well along the shore by Thermopylae
into Locris, as over Mount CEta into Doris ; and
this consideration illustrates a passage in Xeno-
phon, who informs us that when Jason of Pherae
returned from Bceotia into Thessaly after the battle
of Leuctra, (B.C. 371,) he destroyed the walls of
Heracleia, in order that they might not be an im
pediment to his own free passage into Greece \
At a later period its possession by the -ZEtolians
was a main cause of the power of that people which
balanced that of Macedonia under the successors
of Alexander, especially when after the termina
tion of the Epirote monarchy they obtained Am-
bracia, and thus extended their wings to either
shore of continental Greece. Had they been a
virtuous and prudent people, or had they been
1 pi] TivEg rr)v 'Hpa'sXEiav rfjg 'EMa'cloe iropevEoBai, — Xe-
Eirl OTEVtji ovaav KaraXafiovTEg, noph. Hellen. 1. 6, c. 4.
E'ipyoiEv avrov Et irov jSovXoiro 13

X.J MELIS. 31
guided at the right time by such counsellors as
their praetor Agelas of Naupactus, they might
have cemented such an alliance as would have
saved Greece from the Romans ; but all hope of
successful resistance was lost when Heracleia fell,
and two years afterwards Ambracia.
Having quitted the catacombs, after a delay of
five minutes we ride in a direction a little to the
right of the point at which the pass of Thermopylae
begins. This part of the plain is quite unculti
vated, and overgrown with shrubs. At 9.22 we
cross the Karvunaria. or Asopus, half a mile below
the rocky opening from which it issues into the
plain, and opposite to the ruins of the village of
Mustafa Bey. Within the gorge there are per
pendicular precipices on either side, as far up the
stream as the view admits : those on the left bank
are intermixed with wood. The ravine after some
distance winds to the eastward, or exactly in the
direction which Hydarnes wished to follow in his
march over the mountain. At 9.40 the part of
the CEtaan ridge, on which stands Nevropoli, and
which I crossed in 1802 on the way from Zituni
and the bridge of Alemana to Gravia, and
Salona is on our right. A little farther a tor
rent issues from a small ravine and passes into
the plain in several rills, over a slope a quarter
of a mile in breadth, which has been formed in
process of time by the deposition of the torrent :
a part of the stream terminates in a marshy
spot at the foot of the slope ; another part
serves to fill an avlaki used for irrigating some
cotton-grounds on the left. As generally found

32 MELIS. [CHAP.
at the issue of torrents from the mountains, the
surface of the ground is gravelly, and shaded with
planes and other trees.
At 9.48, half a mile to our right, the road to
Dhamasta begins to ascend the mountain : we halt
three minutes, and then proceed through cotton-
fields watered by another small rill from the hills
on the right. At 10.4 arrive at the point where
. begins the western pass, or false Thermopylae, as
it may be called. At 10.8 cross the first stream
of mineral water, which runs with rapidity to
wards the Spercheius, leaving a great quantity of
red deposit. This I take to be the Phamix, so
called, probably, from the colour of its sediment.
Strabo, indeed, derives the name from a hero
Phcenicius ; but the Greeks were fond of an heroic
etymology for their names, and as Herodotus
clearly describes the Phoenix to have been in a
narrow psss westward of Anthele, and fifteen
stades from the real Thermopylae, which is found
exactly to be true as applied to this red rivulet,
there can be little or no doubt of the identity.
The junction of the Asopus and Spercheius is on
our left, a little below the khan of Alemana. The
ground being still white and hard with frost under
the shade of the point, and the air very cold, the
stream of the Phoenix is covered with vapour,
though it is much cooler than that of Thermopylae.
Nor is it so much impregnated with salt. The
red deposit also, which may indicate the presence
iron, shows that the water differs from that of
Thermopylae, which leaves only a white crust.
The plain between this place and the Spercheius,

X.J MELIS. 33
which is now covered with a fine grass, furnishing
pasture to sheep and goats, appears to have been
formed by the deposit of the springs in the course
of ages. The soil, however, has not accumulated
so rapidly here as below the springs of Thermo
pylae. At 10.11 we arrive at a second salt spring
or source of the Phoznix, issuing at an angle of the
steep bank or cliff, and flowing to the former rivu
let : here we join the road from Zituni, which now
passes over the foot of the heights. Below on the
left are cotton- fields, and in one place some ap
pearance of the marsh, which in former ages was
impassable in every part, and reached nearly to
the foot of the cliffs.
At the entrance of the road over the heights
there is a fountain of fresh water constructed in the
usual manner with a low wall, a small basin, and
a spout supplied by a pipe. These Turkish foun
tains, as they are usually called, are probably
nothing more than the Greek /cprjvai continued to
the present day, with such changes only in the
decorations as the Turkish religion and manners
have required, arabesques with sentences from the
Koran, or the name of the builder, being substi
tuted for the elegant ornaments of architecture,
or the sculptures allusive to their mythology, which
the Greeks employed.
At 10.20 the heights terminate, and in one
minute more we cross a stream of cold salt water,
frozen at the edges, and then enter upon that which
Herodotus calls the plain of Anthele. This is a
long triangular 3lope, formed of a hard gravelly
soil and covered with shrubs. It is bounded above
VOL. II. D

34 MELIS. [CHAP.
by a rocky ravine which separates the cliffs of the
false from those of the real Thermopylae ; and it
appears to have been formed in the process of time
by the alluvial matter brought from the mountain
through the gorge. The plain is broadest where
the road crosses it, narrowing from thence to a
point towards the Spercheius, where it terminates.
The precipices at the head of the plain of Anthele
prevent all approach on that side except through
the gorge ; but this affords an easy though very de
fensible access from the plain of the Asopus by pass
ing above the cliffs of the Phaznix or false Thermo
pylae. In the middle of the plain of Anthele, at
10.30, we cross the deep bed of a torrent now dry,
but flowing copiously in times of rain. On my
former visit I searched in vain, when passing the
greatest part of two days at Thermopylae, for any
remains of Anthele, or of the buildings mentioned by
Herodotus which formed the place of meeting of the
Amphictyonic council. At 10.40 we arrive at the
end of the plain, and enter upon the white elevated
soil formed by the deposit ofthe salt-springs of the
proper Thermopylae. The upper source is in a corner
retired within the line of termination of the plain of
Anthele, immediately at the foot of the highest part
of the great cliffs. The soil appears to have been
very much raised in the course of ages by the de
posit. The water is inclosed within a receptacle
of masonry, about two feet in depth, and is seen
springing from the earth below. Some small
superfluities from this basin run down the white
slope, but the main stream formerly serving to
turn a mill which is now in ruins, issues from the

X.J MELIS. 35
foot of the slope, its previous course from the
spring to the issue being below the calcareous
crust or deposit. Some of the veins of water
which contribute to it are visible through aper
tures in the crust at a depth of a foot and a half
below the present surface. From the upper or
western to the lower or eastern hot spring, the
distance is two hundred yards. Between them
a path conducts to some vineyards on the table
summit of a precipice which is advanced in
front of the great cliffs, but ascends no farther ;
the ordinary path from the pass to Drakospilia
leading by a church which is situated on the
heights above the western cliffs, to which there is an
ascent by the bed of the torrent of Anthele. The
sides of the mountain immediately over the pass
(for the great precipices are some distance farther
back) are covered with a thick wood of wild olive,
holly-oak, lentisk, and other common shrubs.
From the lower source there is a distance of
400 yards to a mill which is still in use, the road
leading along the avlaki or artificial canal, which
conducts the water to the mill. The water in the
avlaki is deep, and runs with rapidity, emitting a
vapour which has a strong sulphureous smell. The
sides of the canal, both within and without, are
clothed with a thick white fetid deposit, which
consists chiefly of carbonate of lime, but seems to
retain a considerable portion of sulphur. The de
position of this substance is so rapid that the twigs
of the plants which hang into the water, and even
the green leaves, are partly covered with it ; a fact
which easily accounts for some of the changes that
d 2

36 MELIS. [chap.
have occurred in the elevation of the surface and
the strength of the pass in the course of twenty-
three centuries. The water throws out a great
volume of smoke as it issues from the mill. It
appears that there was formerly another mill below,
for the avlaki is continued, though in a ruinous
state, beyond the existing mill, along the foot of
the two conical heights marked in the plan, the
easternmost of which is crowned with the guard
house of the derveni. Beyond this height the
canal ceases, and the water is suffered to flow in a
natural course down to the river. A lake of the
same water as the springs, but not hot, occupies
all the space between the mill and the western
conical height, a distance of 150 yards; the avlaki
is there carried along the edge of the lake. There is
another smaller pond behind the derveni, or eastern
conical height, towards its western side. The water
of these pools, like that of the principal hot source,
is very bright, and of a deep blue colour, thus
illustrating in some measure the remark of Pausa
nias, that the bluest water he ever saw was in one
ofthe baths at Thermopylae1. The coolness ofthe
water of the two lakes may be ascribed to the slow
ness with which they are supplied by the subterra
neous veins, for the water being of the same com
position as that of the hot springs, is probably hot
also at its issue from the ground. The difference
in quality between the water of the Phoenix and
1 yXavKurarov fiEv olBa iBiap 6vopd£ovaiv ol E7ri^<ipiot %v-
QEaadjiEvog to ev QEppoirvKaig, Tpovg yvvaiKEi'ovc- — Pausan.
ovtl irov irav, a\\' oaov KarEiaiv Messen. c. 35.
kg rrjv KoXvfi(5r)dpar, ijvriya

x.J

MELIS. 37

that of Thermopylae, is practically shown by the
cultivators of the cotton plantations, who carefully
exclude the water of Thermopylae from the cotton,
whereas they use that of the Phoenix to irrigate it.
Neither ofthe two heights just mentioned, though
very regular in form, has the smallest appearance
of being artificial, and in fact each of them is
united by means of a small ridge with the moun
tain : from the western to the eastern there is a
distance of 250 yards, and 400 more to the point
where the road, leaving the white soil formed by
the deposit of the thermal waters, begins to ascend
through the wood. This is the eastern extremity
of the real pass of Thermopylae, as the plain of
Anthele is the western.
At a few minutes within the wood stands a mill
turned by a small torrent of fresh water from the
mountain, and belonging to a monastery of St.
George, above Mola : three men of Dhrakospilia
had just arrived to take possession of the mill,
having hired it of the convent, on condition of
paying thirty-five kuvelia of flour of eighteen okes
each, to the convent yearly. They inform me,
that though there are thirty houses at Dhrakospilia,
there are no more than four families now residing
there, but that they have little reason to regret the
reduction of their numbers, as they are now less
tormented by Turkish visitations, particularly that
of the Dervent Aga, a deputy of Vely Pasha, who
has four or five hundred men under his command,
and travels continually in the neighbourhood of
these passes, quartering and living upon the villages.
We met some of his palikaria in the pass ; the

38 LOCRIS. [chap.
Aga, himself was at Neopatra. There was a sharp
frost under the shade of the mountain in the pass,
and the edges of the salt streams were frozen.
Here in the sun, at the mill, it is warmer than is
agreeable. Not far from this spot was probably
situated Alpeni, or Alponus, the frontier town of
Locris. At 12.40 we continue to ascend through the
wood, in which, among other shrubs, there is an
abundance of large myrtles; at 1.35 cross the
foundations of a Hellenic wall, traceable for a
considerable distance in an oblique direction
towards the cliffs, which are a continuation of
those overhanging and forming the pass of Ther
mopylae, and which are here about half a mile on
our right. Similar remains are observable between
the upper and lower cliffs immediately above Ther
mopylae, the remains of works by which the pass
has at various times been fortified. The founda
tions of the wall which we cross in the road are
nearly opposite to the height on the left ; where, as
I mentioned on the 25th, I found on my former
visit a tumulus, and the foundations of a circular
monument, just above a deep marsh near the right
bank of the Spercheius. It is very probable that
the Hellenic wall was carried from the cliffs to
this point as an advanced defence to the pass on
the eastern side, and that there stood the town of
Nicaea. Thus far I can see no place where the
Persians could have descended. To our left on
the declivity are some small Kalyvia, and fields of
k'alambokki. At 1.50 we arrive at a fountain
immediately below a rocky ravine, between two of

X.J LOCRIS. 39
the lower heights of Callidromus. This ravine is
stony and narrow, but is said to afford a route,
though difficult, to Dhrakospilia and the summit
of the mountain, passing by the monastery of Ai
Ianni, which is situated an hour above the foun
tain. With the telescope I perceive some founda
tions of ancient masonry on the round summit of
the lower, which is the smaller and westernmost of
the two heights bordering the ravine. These sum
mits which are nearly a mile distant from the foun
tain, are themselves very steep, but below them, as
well as around the fountain, there is a level pasture
and an easy descent in every direction, both to the
maritime plain and to the pass. Leaving the fountain
at 2, we cross half an hour afterwards a deep ravine
in which the torrents, descending from the summit
of Callidromus, are collected into one bed. It is the
easiest and most direct passage to the summit of
the mountain : no more than two hours being re
quired to reach Dhrakospilia by this route, though
an equal time is employed in proceeding to the
same place from Ai Ianni, which is only half the
distance. It is probably, therefore, the route by
which the Persians under Hydarnes descended
from the summit of the mountain ; for Hero
dotus remarks, that their descent was much
shorter and less circuitous than the route by which
they ascended !, which may be partly accounted for
by the facility of route afforded by the ravine, and
partly by the summit being nearer to this end of
the ridge than to the Asopian plain, from whence
Hydarnes began his march.
' Herodot. 1. 7, c. 223.

40 MELIS. [CHAP.
At 3 we enter the town of Pundonitza.
In referring the ancient descriptions of Thermo
pylae, or the allusions to it contained in history, to
the real topography, we are immediately sensible
of the great change which the place has under
gone from natural causes in the intermediate time.
The strength of Thermopylae as a pass now de
pends upon the season of the year, for as the sea,
instead of bordering the defile, is now at a distance
of three or four miles from it, the difficulty of passing
Thermopylae depends on the dry or marshy state of
the plain. At the Phoenix, or Western Pass, there
is still in winter only a narrow road at the foot of
the hill, bordered by marshes ; but as these in
summer afford intervals for cultivation, they would
likewise admit of the passage of troops into the plain
of Anthele. In the Eastern Pass, or proper Thermo
pylae, there is in like manner a plain, more than half
a mile in breadth, between the pass and the Sper
cheius, and this plain also, although marshy and
sometimes impassable in winter, is partly cultivated
in summer, and presents no difficulties of passage.
Between this level and the cliffs, moreover, there
is a slope formed of the calcareous depositions of
the springs, dry at all seasons, and in some places
four or five hundred yards in breadth.
To show how different this state of the place is
from that which it presented at the time of the Per
sian invasion, it will be sufficient to extract the
description of the pass by Herodotus, together with
his narrative of the circumstances which accom
panied the death of Leonidas and his three hun
dred heroes. " From the river Phoenix," he says,

X.J MELIS. 41
" to Thermopylae, there is a distance of fifteen
stades. Between them stands the town named
Anthele, near which the Asopus falls into the sea.
Here the country is open, and contains the temple
of Ceres Amphictyonis, and the seats of the Am-
phictyones, and the temple of Amphictyon. Xerxes
the king stationed his army in Trachinia of Melis,
and the Greeks in the pass called by the natives
Pylae,but Thermopylae by the Greeks in general1."
The following passage is more particular : "The
entrance into Greece through Trachis is half a
plethrum in breadth 2 where it is most confined.
The narrowest part of all the country, however, is
not there, but before and behind Thermopylae : —
behind, near Alpeni, where the road admits only
of one chariot ; and before, at the river Phoenix,
near the city Anthele, where also the space is no
more than sufficient for a single carriage. To the
west of Thermopylae a mountain inaccessible, preci
pitous, and lofty, extends to (Eta. On the eastern
side of the defile, are the sea and marshes. In the
Strait are the hot-baths called bythe natives Chytri,
where stands an altar of Hercules 3. Anciently there
was a wall with a gate in the pass, which had been
erected by the Phocenses, when fearful of being in
vaded by the Thessali, who had come from Thes-
protia to inhabit the CEolic land which they now
possess. The Phocenses used every contrivance to
shut the entrance of their land against the Thessali,
and among other things let loose the hot water upon
1 Herodot. 1. 7, c. 200. importance, see p. 30.
2 This is the pass, which 3 The waters were sacred to
afterwards made Heracleia of Hercules. — Strabo, p. 428.

42 MELIS. [CHAP.
the pass to form a torrent. As the greater part of
the wall lay in ruins, the Greeks thought right, upon
the present occasion, to repair it, and make use of
it as a defence against the barbarians. They re
solved also, as the town Alpeni was very near, that
the Greeks in the Strait should be supplied from
thence with provisions. In this pass the Greeks,
having examined the places and found them con
venient, resolved to await the attack, judging that
here the barbarians could neither derive advantage
from their immense numbers, nor make use of
their cavalry. Having departed therefore from
the Isthmus as soon as they heard of the arrival of
the enemy in Pieria, some went in ships to Arte-
misium, and others by land to Thermopylae1." Of
the road over the upper part of Mount Callidro
mus the historian thus speaks : — " This path2 was
discovered by the inhabitants of Melis, who made
use of it to conduct the Thessalians against the
Phocenses, when the latter shut the pass of Ther
mopylae with a wall ; from that time the path had
been of no use to the people of Melis. It began
from the rocky opening3 of the Asopus, and was
named, as well as the mountain over which it
leads, Anopaea. It passes over the crest of the
mountain4, and terminates towards Alpeni, the
frontier town of Locris, and towards the rock
called Melampygus, and the seats of the Cercopes,
where the road is narrowest. By this path the
Persians marched," &c.
1 Herodot. 1. 7, c. 176. 3 Biatripayog.
7 urpairoc. ' Kara pax"7 r0*' oiptog.

X.J MELIS. 43
Three accidents concurred to frustrate the en
deavours of the Panhellenic council at the isthmus
to defend Thermopylae. They were ignorant of
the path over Mount Anopaea, by which the posi
tion might be taken in reverse, Leonidas himself
having only been informed of it by the Trachinii
on his arrival, when he sent 1000 Phocenses to
defend that route \ Secondly, there was no ex
pectation when Leonidas marched from the isth
mus that the troops at Thermopylae would be soon
attacked, the consequence of which was, that none
of the allied states dispatched more than a small
force in the first instance. And lastly, a religious
ceremony, as had happened in the former Persian
invasion, contributed to interpose a delay in the
movements of the main body of the Spartans, while
the Olympic games produced a similar effect in the
rest of Greece. It appears, indeed, that the Spar
tans would not have sent any of their forces so
soon, had it not been with a view to set an ex
ample to the allies, and thereby prevent them
from embracing the interests of Persia 2.
The allies had only time to reach Thermopylae
and repair the Phocian wall, when the Persians
made their appearance before the pass. On the
part of all the Peloponnesians, except the Spar
tans, there was a wish to reserve their efforts for
the defence of the isthmus of Corinth ; but as this
gave great offence to the men of Phocis and Lo
cris, who were supported by Leonidas, it was at
last resolved to remain at Thermopylae, and to
1 Herodot. 1. 7, c. 175. 212. 2 Ibid. c. 206.
217.

44 MELIS. [CHAP.
dispatch messengers to hasten the march of the
remainder of the allied forces1. Xerxes, meantime,
had been informed that a small body of men, headed
by the Lacedaemonians and their king Leonidas,
occupied the pass ; but he could not believe that
they really meant to defend it against his multi
tude, though such was the positive assurance of
Demaratus king of Sparta, who, in the same
manner as Hippias the king of Athens had guided
Datis in the invasion of Attica, accompanied the
Persian monarch in the present expedition.
Xerxes seems to have been ignorant of the real
numbers of the Greeks ; for the single horseman
whom he sent for information, and who was allowed
to approach unmolested, found only the three hun
dred Spartans on the outside of the wall, which
concealed the remainder of the Greek forces. The
Spartans were engaged, some in their gymnastic
exercises, and others in combing their hair, which
being their custom when they were on the point of
exposing their lives to imminent danger, proved
to Demaratus that they were resolved upon defend
ing the position to the last extremity. Xerxes,
however, was still incredulous, and wasted four
days in expectation of their retreat. On the fifth
he sent a detachment of Medes and Cissi against
them. These, and others who succeeded them,
having fought the whole day without making any
impression upon the Greeks, Xerxes was at length
convinced that though he had many men he had
few soldiers2. On the sixth day from that on
1 Herodot. 1. 7, c. 176, 207.
2 iroXXol pkv avOputwoi, oXlyoi Be avBpEg. c. 210.

X.J MELIS. 45
which the Persian horseman reconnoitred the
Greeks, they were attacked by the Immortals l ;
but these also soon found that their numbers were
of no advantage in such narrow ground, against
the long spears and large shields of the Greeks.
The Lacedaemonians, who were the men chiefly
engaged in this day's action, retired several times
as if defeated, and then suddenly facing about,
overthrew great numbers of their opponents 2.
On the following day the Greeks were not less
successful in maintaining their post. All the
allies were present except the Phocians, who were
guarding the passage over the mountain. Xerxes,
convinced at length of the infinite superiority of
the Greek soldier, was reduced to such a state of
embarrassment, as might have made Mount CEta
the term of his expedition, had the allied forces
of the Greeks arrived in time to defend the upper
passage of Mount Anopaea as well as Thermopylae
had already been defended. It seems to have
been on the eighth day of the operations that the
Persian king obtained from a Trachinian named
Ephialtes, whose countrymen had joined the Per
sian army 3, a knowledge of the path over the

1 So called because they well suited for action in a plain,
were always kept complete to but unfit to contend with the
the number of 1 0,000 ; their Lacedaemonians in the Pass,
commander was Hydarnes. — who, secure under the cover of
Herodot. 1. 7, c. 83. their large shields, inflicted
2 Diodorus (1. 11, c. 7) re- their blows with fatal certainty
marks, that the small shields upon the light-armed and ill-
and short javelins of the Per- protected Persians.
sians rendered them agile, and 3 Ctes. Persic. 24.

46 MELIS. [CHAP.
mountain, by which he might send a body of men
into the rear of the Greeks, and thus attack their
position on both sides 1. In the evening, Hydarnes
with the Immortals began his passage over the
mountain, by a circuitous path which at first
ascended the ravine of the Asopus. He marched
all night, with the mountains of the (Etaei on the
right, and those of the Trachinii on the left, and
arrived at daybreak near the place where the
Phocians were posted. As the enemy advanced,
unseen, through a forest of oaks which covered
the upper parts of the mountain, the Phocians
would have been surprised had not the rustling of
the dead leaves under the feet of the enemy,
which the calmness of the morning rendered au
dible, advertized them of the approach of a large
body of men. They had only time to arm, when
a shower of Persian arrows obliged them to retreat
to a more defensible position upon the summit of
the mountain2, where imagining that the enemy
had come expressly to attack them, they prepared
to resist to the last. This movement being pre
cisely what the Persians wished, they took no fur
ther notice of the Phocians, but descended the
mountain. Meantime, the Greeks at Thermopylae
had heard of the movement of Hydarnes, and the
whole camp was informed of it before day-light.
A council was immediately held ; the result of
which was, that all the Greeks should retire to
their respective cities, except the Lacedaemonians,
1 Herodot. 1. 7, c. 213.
2 ETTt TOV OVpEOg TOV KOpvpfio)'.  C 218.

X.J MELIS. 47
Thespienses,andThebans. Ephialtes, having calcu
lated that he should arrive at the eastern end of
Thermopylae about the middle of the forenoon, had
recommended to Xerxes to attack the Greeks in
front about that time. The Persians advanced
accordingly, and Leonidas met them in the widest
part of the pass, having advanced in front of the
wall. Great numbers of the Persians were slain,
many fell into the sea, and many were trodden to
death under the feet of their own comrades. The
Greeks, knowing that they could not avoid their
fate when the Persians should arrive in the rear,
fought with all the energy of despair, and having
broken their spears, came to action with their
swords alone. Here fell Leonidas, and two of the
half brothers of Xerxes. The chief contest was
now for the body of the Spartan king, which the
Greeks at length gained possession of, after having
four times obliged the enemy to retreat. Thus
each side had alternately the advantage, until the
arrival of Hydarnes, when the Greeks, retreating
to the narrowest ground, retired behind the wall,
and from thence gained the hill in the pass, upon
which a stone lion was afterwards erected in
honour of Leonidas. Here, assailed on every side,
they were all buried under the missile weapons of
the enemy, with the exception of the Thebans,
who had been retained by Leonidas solely because
their city was already suspected of medizing ; and
who, when the Greeks retreated to the hill, ad
vanced to meet the Persians, when some were
slain as they approached ; the rest had quarter,

48 MELIS. [CHAP.
but were afterwards branded with the royal mark
of Xerxes '.
Diodorus, Plutarch, and Justin, give a very dif
ferent account of the death of the Spartans, repre
senting that they penetrated in the night into the
camp of Xerxes, and there fell, after slaughtering
the Persians for several hours. This improbable
tale deserves not a moment's confidence, when op
posed to the historian who was a cotemporary of
the heroes of Thermopylae.
According to an epitaph on the polyandrium at
Thermopylae, cited by Herodotus, "4000 Pelopon-
nesians fought there against 300 myriads2." His
enumeration, however, amounts only to 3100 s.
There is reason to believe, therefore, that Isocrates
and Diodorus were right in supposing the 300
Spartans to have been exclusive of the Lacedaemo
nians4. From the cities of Greece northward of
1 Herodot. 1. 7. c. 233. and gives it as an instance of
Plutarch (de Malign. Herodot.) the malice of Herodotus.
denies the truth of this story,
2 MvplCMTtV 7TOTE TTJBe TpiTIKOUtaig Efld^OVTO,
'Ek Ti.EXoTTovva.oov -^XiaBeg tetopec.
Ap. Herodot. 1. 7, c. 228.
3 300 Spartans. Total, 3100
1000 Tegeatas and Man- Herodot. 1. 7, c. 202.
tinenses. * Isocrat. paneg. vol. i. p.
120 of Orchomenus in 223. — in Archid. vol. ii. p. 78,
Arcadia. ed. Auger. — Diodor. 1. 1 1, c. 4.
1000 other Arcadians. In the former the number is
400 Corinthians. 1000 altogether. In the latter,
200 of Phlius. 1000 besides the 300 Spar-
80 of Mycenae. tans.

X.J MELIS. 49
the Isthmus there were about 3000 \ and as all the
7000 were hoplitae, and were undoubtedly attended
by a proportion of light-armed, it is probable that
about 10,000 Greeks were assembled, when the
impossibility of defending the pass having been
proved, the Spartans and Thespienses alone under
Leonidas and Demophilus, devoted themselves, by
remaining, to certain destruction2.
The Persian land forces assembled in Melis
amounted, according to Herodotus, to 80,000
Asiatic cavalry, and two millions of infantry, among
whom were included 300,000 Europeans from
Thrace, Macedonia, Thessaly, and other states of
Greece, and the followers of the camp were
even more numerous than the combatants3. The
only proof which the historian has left to cor
roborate this statement is the mural measure
ment of the Asiatic infantry in the plain of
Doriscus in Thrace, where 10,000 men having
been set apart and made to stand close together, a
wall was built round them, and the inclosure was
successively filled until the whole army was thus
counted, and found to amount to'1,700,0004.
Such a process, if carefully and fairly executed,
could scarcely have failed to produce an approxi
mation to the truth within 10,000. It is obvious,
1 700 of Thespia. oned at 6000 by Pausanias,
400 of Thebes. but much more probably by
1000 Phocians. Diodorus at 1000.
 2 To these Pausanias (Pho-
2100, to whom are to be cic. c. 20) adds the Mycenaei.
added the Eastern Locrians, 3 Herodot. 1. 7, c. 184, 185.
(Herodot. ubi sup.) who went * Herodot. 1. 7, c. 60.
wavarpaTiri. These are reck-
VOL. II. E

50 MELIS. [CHAP.
however, that there may have been many persons
interested in producing a false muster. We may
readily credit that the host of Xerxes was one of
the largest which ever entered an enemy's country.
Asiatic armies have always been greater in pro
portion than those of other countries, in conse
quence of the peculiar structure of society, which
pervades almost the whole of that continent. And
in this instance we know the numbers assembled
to have been the result of a four-years' preparation,
to have been collected from the whole Persian
empire, which then included Egypt as well as all
Western Asia, and to have been augmented by the
forces of Europe, from the extremity of Thrace to
the foot of Mount (Eta. But some of the same
causes, which facilitate the collection of large
armies in the east, render it difficult to arrive at
any certainty as to their exact numbers ; and the
impossibility of finding subsistence in an enemy's
country for such a multitude, although attended as
they were by all the naval forces of the states which
supplied the troops, is alone sufficient to justify a
disbelief in the numbers of Herodotus.
The silence of Persian history on the invasion of
Greece has been supposed to invalidate the truth
of the whole transaction, or at least to show that it
was nothing more than an expedition of some pro
vincial satrap, magnified by Grecian vanity, and
which being unsuccessful, the Persians took no
great pains to record. But no person who has re
flected on the history of Greece, or has read Hero
dotus with attention, will easily entertain such an
opinion. With the sole exception of the amount

X.J MELIS. 51
of the enemy's land forces, there is no reason to
question the statements of Herodotus, who in his
narrative of the Persian invasion has left us one of
the most cautious and accurate narratives that ever
was written, not even excepting those of Thucydides
and Polybius. The conquest of Egypt is no more
recorded in Persian history than the failure of the
expedition to Greece. The oblivion of both these
events we may attribute to the same cause : namely,
the total loss of the literature and history of ancient
Persia, of which the arrow-headed character was
the element. A few names only of the ancient
monarchs seem to have escaped that literary
wreck. The following are a few reflexions occurring on
a view of the scene of this celebrated event. Ther
mopylae appears to have been the name generally
applied to the whole road or passage at the foot of
Mount Callidromus, from the plain of the Asopus
to the woody slopes which commence a little beyond
the modern derveni. But it is distinctly divisible
into three parts, the pass of the Phoenix, the plain
of Anthele, and Thermopylae proper. The latter
was the only part very defensible against a great
disparity of numbers ; for, as I have already re
marked, it is not difficult to turn the pass of the
Phoenix from the westward, and to descend upon
the plain of Anthele, which being more than half
a mile in breadth, leaves only for the real Stena.
or pass, the part where are the hot springs,
anciently called Chytri, and now Therma1, toge-
1 ra Qtpjia.
E 2

52 MELIS. [CHAP.
ther with the two ponds of the same kind of water,
and the two conical heights. Above all these rise
immediately steep woody slopes mixed with rocky
precipices, behind which are other precipices still
higher, which impede all communication but along
the foot of the hill by the hot sources, ponds, and
conical heights. Herodotus gives reason to believe
that the wall of the Phocians was built a little
eastward of the western salt spring, which issues
on the eastern edge of the upper extremity of the
plain of Anthele, so that the current from this
spring may have flowed along the exterior side of
the wall. The koXwvoc kv tt? kao^w, or hill1 in the
pass, which was the last retreat of the Spartans,
and where the stone lion was erected in honour of
Leonidas, I take to have been the western of the
two small heights, this being nearest to the posi
tion of the Phocian wall, and the narrowest part of
the pass, which begins to widen near the hill of the
Derveni. The latter moreover being rocky, whereas
the former is smooth and even, will better corre
spond to the rock Melampygus, upon which were
the KepKUTTbJv eSpai, or seats of the Cercopes2. A
little beyond this hill eastward, the pass termi
nates : the woody heights, which rise steeply
1 The word icoXwvbg is. used The rock Melampygus was so
by Plutarch as well as He- called from a ridiculous fivdog,
rodotus, and applies precisely connected with this feat of Her-
to such heights as the two in cules, which forms the subject
the pass of Thermopylae. of a very ancient sculpture on
2 The Cercopes were robbers a metope of one of the temples
who infested the pass, and who of Selinus in Sicily.
were subdued bv Hercules.

X.J MELIS. 53
from the saline sources and ponds, diminish in
height, and at the same time recede to the
southward, leaving at their feet a long practi
cable slope covered with wood, which reaches to
the marshes near the mouth of the Spercheius,
and which I traversed on quitting Thermopylae for
Pundonitza. In regard to the route of Hydarnes from the
plain of Trachis, over Mount Callidromus, other
wise named Anopaea, to Alpeni, there can be little
doubt from the words of Herodotus, that it began
by ascending the ravine of the Asopus l, which,
having (as before remarked) a direction from
the eastward, and being perfectly concealed, was
thus well adapted to the object of the movement
of Hydarnes. After following the ravine for
some distance, a rugged and circuitous ascent
would conduct him to Dhamasta, from whence the
route was comparatively easy to Dhrakospilia, a
little beyond which probably was the position of
the Phocians. After engaging with them until
they retreated to the neighbouring summit of the
mountain now called Saromata, he descended by
the torrent, which I crossed at 2.30, and turning
westward on arriving at the modern route from
Pundonitza to Thermopylae, reached, without any
further difficulty, the position of Alpeni and the
eastern end of the pass. As he quitted the camp
of Xerxes in the dusk of the evening, and arrived

1 "Ex« Be HBe h arpawog Biaotyayog piovrog. — Herodot.
avrn' apy(ETai /jlev airb tov 1. 7, c. 216.
'Aawirov ¦Korapov tov Bid rijg

54 MELIS. [CHAP.
at the Phocian position at day-break, he was about
eight hours on his march, the transaction having
taken place in the beginning of August. Even if
the road had been as good as the ground could
possibly admit, the distance could not have been
less than twelve miles : on considering, therefore,
the steepness of the ascent from the vale of the
Asopus, the varied surface of the mountain in the
upper region, the necessary halts and other delays
incidental to the march of 10,000 men by such
a path as the historian has described, partly
through a thick forest, and in the night, the time
does not seem too much in proportion to the dis
tance to be performed. The descent was not
much less than the ascent in actual distance but
was very different in other respects, being little
encumbered with rugged ground or forests ;
and the march was performed by day. These
causes combined would produce a great dimi
nution in time ; so that Hydarnes probably was
not more than five hours in the descent, in
cluding the delay occasioned by the skirmish with
the Phocians, and may have arrived at Alpeni
about nine o'clock in the forenoon. The only dif
ficulty in the historian's narrative is, that he states
Hydarnes, in commencing his march, to have left
the mountains of the CEtaei on his right hand, and
those of the Trachinii on his left, which tends to
the belief that he began his ascent from the plain
to the westward of the Trachinian rocks, about the
modern Vardhates. But as this would have dou
bled the distance, and the words of Herodotus de
cisively indicate the ravine of the Karvunaria, as

X.J MELIS. 55
the beginning of his route, we are to conclude that
all the summits above the city of Trachis and the
Trachinian rocks, on one of which the citadel of
Heracleia was afterwards built, then belonged to
the (Etaei. The Trachinia, it is easy to conceive,
comprehended all the mountain Callidromus, as
far as the boundaries of Locris ; and thus, notwith
standing the city Trachis was on the right of Hy
darnes, the (Etaean mountains, during a great part of
his march, may have been on the right, while the
Trachinian were on his left. The stillness of the
dawn, which saved the Phocians from being sur
prised, is very characteristic of the climate of
Greece in the season when the occurrence took
place, and like many other trifling circumstances
occurring in the history of the Persian invasion, is
an interesting proof of the accuracy and veracity
of the historian.
A little more than two centuries after the Per
sian invasion, in the year B.C. 279, the Gauls,
whose appetite for plunder had been more excited
than satisfied by that of Italy, Illyria, Pannonia, and
Thrace, turned their steps towards Greece, which
then offered a more tempting field for the plun
derer than any country in the world. They first
made their appearance in Macedonia, where in
two successive years they defeated Ptolemy Ce
raunus and Sosthenes \ Elated with this success,
they now advanced towards the southern provinces
of Greece, having principally in view the pillage of
x Polyb. 1. 9, c. 35. Pausan. Phocic. c. 19. Justin.
1. 24, c. 5.

56 MELIS. [CHAP.
the temples of Greece, and particularly that of Del
phi. They were met at Thermopylae by an allied
army of Greeks, amounting to about 23,000 infantry
and 2000 cavalry \ together with all the Athenian
triremes which could be collected. The chief ma
nagement of the war was entrusted to the Atheni
ans, who were led by Callippus, son of Moerocles. .
The Greeks, having destroyed the bridges of the
Spercheius, and stationed a body of troops to op
pose the Gauls in crossing at the same point, Bren-
nus effected a passage with 10,000 men nearer to
the sea, where the river spreading over the low
grounds formed a lake and marshes instead of the
single and steady stream which it presented higher
up. Loftiness of stature, says Pausanias, being a
general characteristic of the Celtic race, some of
their tallest men waded over the marshes, while
1 The following is the enumeration of the several contingents,
by Pausanias : — Foot. Horse.
From Bceotia  10,000  500
Phocis  3,000  500
Locris Opontia  700
Megaris  400
^Etolia  7,090
Athens  1,000  500
Antiochus, king of Syria . . 500
Antigonus, king of Macedonia 500

23,190 1,500
Add for the horse of the Megarenses
and^Etoli, whose numbers are not
specified, about  800

Total, 23,190 2,300

X-J MELIS. 57
some employed their shields as rafts, and others
passed over by swimming. The Greeks then with
drew their forces from the river, and retired within
the pass of Thermopylae. The next measure of
Brennus was that of obliging the people of Melis
to construct bridges over the Spercheius, and he
then crossed with his whole army, which had con
sisted, when he first entered Greece, of upwards
of 200,000 men \ After having laid waste the
country, and murdered the inhabitants around
Heracleia, which was then in the possession of
the iEtolians, he proceeded against the Greeks
in Thermopylae. Being informed of their amount
by some fugitives, and despising the smallness of
their numbers, he attacked them at sun-rise on
the day after his arrival at the entrance of the
pass. But neither the military skill nor the armour
of the Gallic infantry, qualified them to contend
with Greeks. Their shields were a very insuffi
cient covering, and their swords were made to cut
only, having no point2. The cavalry, in conse
quence of the narrowness of the ground and of the
rocks and torrents was of no use on either side.
The Gauls attacked with their accustomed impe
tuosity 3, and fought with the utmost perseverance
1 Horse  » • 20,400
Two mounted attendants to each horseman. . 40,800
Infantry  152,000

213,200
According to Justin, the Gauls entered Macedonia with
120,000 infantry, and 15,000 cavalry.
2 Polyb. 1. 2, c. 30. 33 ; 3 Id. 1. 2, c. 33. 35.
1. 3, c. 114. V

58 MELIS. [CHAP.
notwithstanding the wounds inflicted by the battle-
axes and swords of the hoplitae, as well as by the
javelins and arrows of the light-armed. Many
even drew out the missiles of the Greeks from
their own bodies, to hurl them back upon the
enemy. Unable, therefore, with all their efforts
to obtain any advantage, they regained their camp,
after considerable loss, by a retreat as tumultuous
and confused as their attack had been, and in
which those who were trodden to death by their
own comrades or who were lost in the marshes,
were not less numerous 'than those who fell in
the engagement. The success of the day was
in great measure due to the Athenian galleys,
which were conducted with great difficulty and
danger through the marshes, until their missiles
were brought to bear upon the enemy.
On the seventh day after the battle, a body of
Gauls ascended Mount CEta by a narrow path
near the ruins of Trachis, not with a view of cross
ing the mountain into the rear of the Greek posi
tion, but for the purpose of plundering a temple
of Minerva, situated above the ruins of Trachis.
They were met and beaten by the iEtolians from
Heracleia, whose commander, Telesarchus, fell in
the action. Brennus now attempted to detach the
iEtolians from the confederate army, by under
taking an expedition into their country with the
view of thus obliging them to march to its defence :
40,000 Gallic infantry and 8000 horse having
crossed the Spercheius, as if marching into Thes
saly, suddenly entered iEtolia and attacked Cal-
lium, which they took and treated with the most

x-] MELIS. 59
merciless cruelty ; but having been encountered
on their return by the iEtolians from Thermopylae
reinforced from various parts of iEtolia, they were
completely defeated, and not half their number
returned to the camp of Brennus.
An example of that selfishness and disunion
which has been the bane of Greece in every age
was now destined to favour the invader. The
Heracleotae and iEnianes, tired of the protracted
stay of the enemy in their territory, and thinking
only of the readiest means of ridding themselves
of the evil, undertook to guide the Gauls across
Mount Callidromus by the same path 1 which the
Persians had followed. Brennus resolved upon
conducting the expedition in person. Leaving
Acichorius, therefore, in charge of the main army,
with orders to attack the Greeks in front, as soon
as those who crossed the mountain should arrive
in their rear, he ascended Callidromus at the head
of 40,000 men.
A body of Phocians, for the defence of the road,
had been stationed on the mountain, as in the
time of Xerxes, and to as little purpose. A dense
vapour covering the summit, the Phocians were
not apprized of the approach of the Gauls until
they were attacked, when, after a short resistance,
they retreated with all expedition to their comrades
at Thermopylae. The whole army then embarked
in the Athenian galleys, and thus effected its re
treat without further loss. Brennus, upon learn-

1 arpawog is the word ap- from Herodotus to Procopius.
plied to this road by all authors The modern word is fiovoirdri.

60 MELIS. [CHAP.
ing that Thermopylae was evacuated by the enemy,
without waiting for Acichorius marched forward
to Delphi, where he suffered a variety of disasters
which the Greeks believed to have been caused by
an immediate interposition of Apollo in defence of
his sanctuary. If Pausanias was truly informed,
the Greeks were assisted on this occasion both by
an earthquake which detached some of the rocks
of Parnassus and rolled them upon the enemy, and
by a thunder-storm which was succeeded by snow
and a supernatural degree of cold. The next day
they were attacked in the rear by the Phocians,
when Brennus with difficulty escaped, and effected
a junction with Acichorius. A panic terror caused
the Gauls to kill one another ; and the Greeks,
assembling from all sides, harassed them to such
a degree that with difficulty they regained the
Spercheius, when they were again so vigorously
assailed by the Thessalians, that, if Pausanias is
to be believed, not one returned from Greece.
Although there may be some superstitious ex
aggeration in the accounts which obtained credit
in Greece of this defeat of the Gauls, none of the
circumstances are incredible in a country so sub
ject to earthquakes, and thunder-storms, and to
sudden changes of temperature in the mountains.
No place in Greece is more likely than Delphi to
be the scene of such a conflict of the elements, or
is better suited, by its local peculiarities to pro
duce the effect upon ignorant strangers which
Pausanias has described. When terror had once
overpowered the minds of the invaders their de
struction easily followed, exposed as they were to

X.J MELIS. 61
an enemy well acquainted with all the natural re
sources of the country, and ready to harass them
in their retreat through some of the most difficult
passes in Greece.
In the year 207 B.C., when Eastern Greece
was the seat of war between Philip, king of Mace
donia, son of Demetrius, and the iEtolians, who
were then in alliance with the Romans, and with
Attalus, king of Pergamus, the pass of Thermo
pylae was fortified by the iEtolians with a foss and
dyke, which was soon afterwards taken by Philip1.
Sixteen years afterwards, Thermopylae was occu
pied by Antiochus, king of Syria, when at war
with the Romans, who were then in alliance with
Philip. Antiochus brought with him 10,000 in
fantry, 500 horse, and six elephants2. The iEto-
lians were also opposed to the Romans, but
afforded little assistance to Antiochus. The con
sul Acilius, commander of the Roman army, after
laying waste the districts of Hypata and Heracleia,
both which cities were then in the hands of the
iEtolians, encamped in the pass near the fountains
of hot water, over against the king, who had forti
fied his position with a wall, and a double ditch
and rampart, and who, mindful of what had hap
pened to the Lacedaemonians in former time as
well as recently to Philip3, had prevailed upon the
1 Liv. 1. 28, cc. 5. 7. mentions this fact, which, al-
2 Liv. 1. 35, c. 43 ; 1. 36, though the word nuper seems
cc. 15. 19. hardly applicable to such a
3 Et nuper Philippum ab space of time, could hardly
iisdem Romanis. It is thus have occurred but during the
incidentally only that Livy campaign of 207, b.c

62 MELIS. [CHAP.
iEtolians to occupy with 2000 men three castles
upon the mountain named Tichius, Rhoduntia, and
Callidromum1 ; upon learning which the consul
detached Flaccus his legate against Tichius and
Rhoduntia, and Cato against Callidromum.
On the morning after the arrival of the Romans
at Thermopylae, both parties drew out their forces.
Those of Antiochus were in two lines in front of
the rampart, a part of his light-armed occupying
the heights above the hot sources. The Mace
donian Sarissophori was in the centre : on the
right, as far as the marshes, were the elephants
with their guards, and behind them the cavalry.
The remainder of the army formed a second
line. The position, though we may suppose
it to have been somewhat increased in breadth
since the time of the Persian, and even of the
Gallic invasion, by the gradual effect of the same
causes which have at length left a considerable
plain between the pass and the Spercheius, was
too narrow for such an order of battle as that of
Antiochus, against infantry which had now esta
blished its superiority over the phalanx. His
line, therefore, was obliged to retreat behind
the first rampart, and was defending the second
with some advantage, when the troops of Cato,
who had surprised the iEtolians in Callidromum,
appeared on the summit of the heights above the
pass, threatening the rear of the king's position,
1 Appian (Syriac. c. 17-) 1000 men to each of them.
speaks only of two summits, Plutarch, in his life of Cato,
Callidromum and Tichius, and says their number was 600.
adds that the iEtolians sent
13

X.J MELIS. 63
and the destruction of his whole army. A preci
pitate retreat was the immediate consequence,
which would have been still more disastrous to the
Greeks than it proved, had not the narrowness of
the pass rendered the advance of the Roman in
fantry difficult, and that of the cavalry impossible,
in face of the elephants, which the Romans at
length found it more easy to kill than to capture.
The pursuit, however, was continued as far as
Scarpheia ; scarcely any more than 500, who
formed the body-guard of Antiochus, escaped to
Chalcis, and the loss of the battle obliged Antio
chus to retire into Asia.
There are still the remains of three Hellenic for
tresses on the side of Mount Callidromus above
Thermopylae : one of these is on the westernmost
of the two rocky heights which include the ravine
of the torrent of Anthele ; the second is above it,
near Dhamasta ; the third occupies the summit
described by me at 1.50, as lying on the right
of the road, about half way from Thermopylae
to Pundonitza. As the consul sent a single body
of troops against Tichius and Rhoduntia, and an
other against Callidromum, it is natural to suppose
that the two former were those not far distant from
one another on the western side ofthe mountain,
and I am disposed to believe that Tichius was the
higher, as Appian gives the names of Tichius and
Callidromum to two summits of the mountain. It
will follow that Callidromum was the third for
tress, the position of which accords with the cir
cumstance of Cato, soon after he had taken Calli
dromum, having made his appearance on the hills

64 MELIS. [CHAP.
threatening the rear of the king's position, and
consequently towards the eastern end of the pass.
Had these fortresses existed at the time of the Per
sian or Gallic invasions, or even when Philip occu
pied Thermopylae against the Romans and iEto
lians, they would probably have been brought into
notice on those occasions. They would seem,
therefore, to have been constructed during the sixteen
years which elapsed between the last-mentioned
period and the Antiochian campaign ; probably
by the /Etolians, who had then extended their
dominion from the borders of iEtolia proper, to
those of Locris. The want of such an addition to
the natural defences of this entrance into the south
ern provinces of Greece, had then been repeatedly
proved, and the road over the mountain had thrice
frustrated the hopes of the defenders of Thermo
pylae, founded on the strength of the pass itself.
The three fortresses were well placed for the object
in view. Tichius defended the ascent of the
mountain on the road by which Hydarnes crossed
it. Rhoduntia protected the route by which the
pass of the Phoenix may be turned through the
ravine of Anthele, and Callidromum was equally
well placed as a defence of the upper pass on the
eastern side.
We are told by Procopius ', that among other
works which Justinian constructed for the defence
of the empire, he restored the fortifications of Ther
mopylae, and of some neighbouring towns. Scarcely
any illustration of topography, however, is to be ob-
1 Procop. de MM. 1. 4, c. 2.

CHAP. X.J MELIS. 65
tained from the Byzantine historian, who had evi
dently no personal knowledge of the place, and
whose inflated account exaggerates the power and
performances of Justinian in the same degree as in
his Secret History he studies to vilify his imperial
master. The buildings of Justinian were probably
of a very different composition from the solid con
structions of the ancient Greeks, for while remains
still exist, more or less considerable, of all the
principal Hellenic cities round the Maliac Gulf,
not a trace is to be found, as far as I can learn,
either of the works which Justinian is said to have
constructed at Thermopylae, Heracleia, and Hy
pata, or ofthe towns of Saccus, Unnus, Coracion,
Baleae, or Leontarium, all which Procopius states
to have been situated near Thermopylae.

VOL. II.

CHAPTER XL

LOCRIS, PHOCIS, DORIS.

Pundonitza — Ternitza — Geography of Doris and the frontier of
Phocis — Rivers Apostolia, and Kaienitza — River Cephissus —
Dhadni, Amphicleia — Velitza, Tithorea, Neon — Lefta, Ela-
teia — Palea Fiva, Ledon — Lilaea — Source of the Cephissus —
Charadra, Tithronium, Drymcea — Tetrapolis oi Doris — River
Erineus, or Pindus, or Acyphas — Erineus, Pindus, Cytinium,
Bcewm — Departure from Velitza — Bissikeni — The Stena of
the Cephissus — Dhavlia — Rivers Platania, Mavronero — Dau-
lis, Inscription — Aio Vlasi — Mera — Kapurna — Panopeus —
Chceroneia — Mount Petrachus — Arrival at Livadhia.
Pundonitza, or Bundonitza, according to the vul
gar enunciation of the initial P, is a bishopric of
the province of Athens, under the name of Medhi-
nitza1, and the chief place of a Turkish district
comprehending 30 villages. The town, which
contains 115 Greek families and 50 Turkish,
stands at the foot of a steep rock, occupied by a
castle of the middle ages, in the walls of which
are some portions of Hellenic masonry, showing
that it was the acropolis of one of the towns of
the Epicnemidii. The hill rises from an elevated
plain, stretching along the foot of a ridge which
connects the summits anciently named Callidromus
and Cnemis. The latter mountain, which commences
1 HovvroviT^a, M.cBriviT£a.
13

CHAP. XI. J LOCRIS. 67
at the end of this plain and extends to that of Ta-
landa, is woody and uncultivated, and is here
generally known by the name of Karya, from the
nearest village. Half-way towards it from Pun
donitza the pass of Fondana leads over the ridge to
Turkokhorio, or Essed, in the plain of the Ce
phissus. By this road I came to Pundonitza on
my former visit.
The castle commands a fine view of the Maliac
Gulf, and of the Straits on either side of Euboza,
together with a large portion of the northern part
of that great island, particularly the peninsula Ce-
naeum, now called Lithadha \ Beyond the straits,
the gulf, and the plain of Zituni, is seen the whole
range of Mount Othrys. A little to the right of
the southern mouth of the Spercheius, that of a
large torrent is a conspicuous object. It is formed
from the ravines mentioned at 1.50 and 2.30,
added to the water-courses round Pundonitza.
Its ancient name is not, I believe, to be found in
history. The Boagrius, which is a similar but
much larger torrent, enters the sea two or three
miles farther to the east. It collects all the waters
from the elevated plain and adjacent mountains
to the eastward of Pundonitza. If the relative
situations of the two divisions of Eastern Locris
were not perfectly clear, the modern name Pun
donitza might mislead the geographer, and induce
him to suppose that Opus was here situated2,
Pundonitza being formed apparently from one of
the oblique cases of 'On-oSc, by the omission of the
1 AiddSa. 2 Meletius has fallen into this error.
F 2

68 LOCRIS. [chap.
initial o, which is a common Romaic corruption,
and by the addition of the Greco-Illyric diminu
tive irla. But the Epicnemidii were certainly
interposed between Thermopylae and the Opontii ;
Pundonitza, therefore, can only be regarded as an
instance among many in Greece of the preserva
tion of an ancient name in a different site, arising
probably from one of those colonizations or move
ments of the inhabitants, which appear in all ages
to have been common in this country. Neo
patra, or New Patra, is a neighbouring example,
greatly resembling that of Little Opus, at Pun
donitza. The upper Epicnemidian plain, as that of Pun
donitza may be called, in contradistinction to the
maritime level which contained some other towns
of the Epicnemidii, may be considered as a con
tinuation of the upper region of Mount Callidro
mus, already so often mentioned, in which Dha
masta. and Dhrakospilia are situated. All this
elevated country, although unproductive compared
with the rich Spercheian plain, is a most useful
neighbour to it, by supplying the timber and fuel,
in which the plains are deficient, and by affording
a salubrious retreat from their pernicious exhala
tions in the summer. Callidromus in particular,
which is well described by its name, consists en
tirely in its middle region, of a most agreeably
diversified scene of pasture and corn land, inter
mixed with forests, rocks, and streams ; and com
manding by its elevation a variety of prospects of
the most sublime and interesting character. The
whole district of Melis, in short, is a complete

xi.] phocis. 69
example of the great variety and resources of the
climate and soil of Greece.
Nov. 29. — At a mile to the south of Pundonitza,
we leave to the right a road to Dhrakospilia, which
follows the foot of the steep ridge, connecting Cal
lidromus with Cnemis, and enter a narrow rocky
opening in it, between two summits, of which that
on the left is very lofty, and clothed with large fir-
trees. The pass is a mile in length. In eight
minutes beyond its extremity, mounting a rising
ground, we suddenly open a magnificent view of
the great mountains of Phocis, Bosotia, and Attica,
from tne western end of Parnassus as far as Mount
Parnes, together with a great part ot the lower
country within these barriers. Below us extends the
great valley of Doris and Phocis, contained between
the CEtaean and the Parnassian ranges ; and imme
diately opposite is the town of Dhadhi, or Dhadhia.1,
on the side of Parnassus, considerably increased
since I was there between three and four years ago.
I recognize also the other places on the opposite
side of the valley, which I then visited, namely,
the villages of Velitza and Jjupla, on the side of
Mount Parnassus, — higher in that mountain Agu-
riani, in the road which leads across it to Delphi, —
at its foot the sources of the Cephissus, called Ke-
falovryses, — the ruins at Paleokastro, and the pass
and khan of Gravia, by which we proceeded to
Salona. The plain to the westward surrounded by
Callidromus, CEta, and Parnassus, and watered by
several streams, which unite and fall into the
Cephissus, is well seen also from these hills.
1 Aao, Action.

70 phocis. [chap.
The position of the several objects, particularly
that of the mountains, perfectly illustrates Strabo,
and proves that the farther part of this great valley
towards the west is a part of the ancient Doris ;
the ruins, therefore, which we then saw near Ma-
riolates and at Gravia, are those of two of the
Dorian towns named by the geographer. It may
be remarked also from hence, that the territory of
Dhadhi forms a natural separation helgeen the
Dorian anoTTHe Phocian valley of the Cephissus ;
for here the hills on either side approaching,
leave only a narrow passage for the river. The
root of Parnassus, which forms the north-western
point of the strait, meets the Cephissus about
two miles to the north-west of Dhadhi, where
the road from Zituni passes the river by a bridge
near some mills.
To the westward of this point are some copious
springs at the foot of the hills, which form a
marshy space for a quarter of a mile, and then
join the river. Th"ese springs are usually called
the peyaXaiQ fipvosig, ot great sources ; but though
they bear this name from their forming a large
marsh or inundation around them in winter, they
are not so permanent or so considerable in summer
as the other great sources three miles farther to
the south-west at the foot of Parnassus, and which
show by their name, Ki(pa\o(3pvaug, that they are
now considered the fountain-head of the Cephissus.
Near the Megales Vryses, to the south-west, begins
a long slope, similar to that of Dhadhi, at the head
of which is Suvala, where in my former tour I re
marked ancient foundations, which probably mark
the site of Charadra. The foot of the mountain

xi. J phocis. 71
afterwards takes a turn, for a short distance, to the
northward to the Kefalo-vryses, which issue from
under a platform supported by the remains of an
ancient wall near a large ruined church. The
course of the Cephissus is north-easterly from the
sources to the extremity of the slope of Dhadhi,
which it surrounds ; it then gradually assumes the
south-easterly course, which it follows to the Stena,
leading into the plain of Charoneia. A little to
the right of the Kefalo-vryses is seen the ravine of
a torrent generally dry, which descends from Agu-
riani. On its left bank, on the edge of the plain,
are the ruins called Paleokastro, one of the best
preserved of Hellenic fortresses, and which a variety
of authorities from Homer to Pausanias show to
have been Lilaea, by their testimony that the
sources of the Cephissus were at that town l ; the
nearest point of these remains is in fact less than
half a mile from the Kefalo vryses2. To the right
1 Oi t apa Trap irorafibv K.r]<piaabv Slov ivaiov
Oi te AiXatav 'kypv irriyrjg etti Krj(j>lo-(roio. Horn. II. B. v. 522.
K.r](j>itTcrbv B' ap' etteitci. Ki^ficao KaXXtpEEdpov
"0<JT£ AlXai1)0EV TTpOyEEl KaXXlppOOV iBiOp.
Horn. Hymn, in Apoll. v. 240.
propellentemque Lilaeam
Cephissi glaciale caput. Stat. Theb. 1. 7, v. 348.
Plin. H. N. 1. 4, c. 3. 7. ists, partly founded on the
Strabo, pp. 407. 424. steep descent of a rocky hill,
Pausan. Bceot. c. 24. Pho- the remainder encompassing a
cic. c. 8. 33. level space at its foot, where
2 At Paleokastro the entire the ground is covered with
circuit of the fortification ex- ruins. The walls are of the

phocis. [chap.
/occur the lower heights of Parnas-
prsected with torrents running into
the Cephissus, called the Kaienitza,
rravia1. In a recess at the foot of
)m which one of these tributaries of
^proceeds, and about midway between
Paleokastro and Gravia are the ruins of an ancient
town at the village of Mariolates 2. The Kaienitza,
which had no water in it when I passed along its
bank in the month of July, but is now a stream of
some magnitude, flows parallel to and at a small
distance from the foot of Parnassus, until near the
Megales Vryses it unites with another and larger
stream called Apostolia, and then joins the Cephis
sus. The Apostolia rises in Mount OEta, enters
the plain towards its north-western corner, and
crosses it obliquely. On, or not far from its left
bank, is Kardhiki, situated on the right of the
road from Zituni to Salona, in._a forest of oaks,
which not only covers that side of Mount Callidro
mus, but extends over all the neighbouring part of
the plain7 Below the forest the plain is well cul
tivated. On the Apostolia, above Kardhiki, is Pavliani,
and on this side of the road from Zituni to Salona,
on the slope of the mountain, are Bralos, Paleo-
third order: some parts, both deity, of Athenian workman-
of the towers and curtains are ship, and of Pentelic marble. —
almost entire. Pausanias ob- Pausan. Phocic. c. 38.
served at Lilaea a theatre, an * KdUviT^a, or Kaysvlr^a,
agora, and baths, with temples Fpafiid.
of Apollo, and of Diana, each of ' MapwXdrEg.
which contained a statue of the

xi. J phocis. 73
khori, Kamares, Glunista, and then Ternitza, to
which latter village I descend in forty minutes, and
then proceed to the ruins of a Hellenic fortress,
situated about midway between Kamares and Glu
nista, which I observed from Dhadhi on my former
visit. It is distant forty minutes from Ternitza,
and occupied a rocky point of the mountain on the
edge of the plain. Some of the towers remain
nearly entire. The masonry is generally of the
third order, but contains some pieces of the poly
gonal kind ; the space enclosed is a triangle, of
which none of the sides is more than 250 yards.
At the summit is a circular Acropolis of about two
acres, preserving the remains of an opening into
the town. These are probably the ruins of Dry-
mus or Drymaea, where Pausanias noticed an an-
cient temple of Ceres, containing an upright statue
ofthe goddess in stone, and in whose honour a
festival Was celebrated named the Thesmophoria.
From the Paleokastro, I proceed, in thirty-five
minutes, directly across the plain to the bridge
near the mills already mentioned. This space is
one continued corn-field, with an excellent soil.
It is not yet ploughed for sowing. From the
bridge we ascend, in forty minutes, to Dhadhi.
At a third of the distance is the Kalyvia of Dhadhi,
consisting of upwards of one hundred huts for the
use of the labourers and cattle of the Dhadhiotes.
The space between Dhadhi and the river is a tri
angular slope, of which the village forms the ver
tex : at the river side or base the triangle is about
three miles long ; to the eastward it is bounded by
a ridge which descends from Parnassus and forms

74 phocis. [chap.
a projection at the river ; and on the third side
the triangle terminates in the point near the mills.
Dhadhi, which is in the district of Livadhia, now
contains five hundred families, having been much
increased by emigrants flying from Turkish extor
tions in districts less protected at Constantinople
than Livadhia has the good fortune to be, from its
being a Vakuf of Mecca. It will probably not be
long, however, before Dhadhi and Livadhia itself
will suffer from the encroachment of Aly Pasha.
Two handsome churches and a school have lately
been built, and there is a large monastery of the
Panaghia on the side of the mountain above the
town. The houses are generally upon the same
plan, consisting of two small rooms and a gallery
in front of them. The galleries, for the most part,
face the south-east, so that the gable ends of the
houses, in which there is generally one small win
dow, look down the slope. The people appearin-
dustrious and civil. The lands on the declivity
below the village, although stony, yield a tolerable
return in wheat and barley. In the valley below,
where the soil is excellent, the return is eight to
o»er and would undoubtedly be much greater with
a^better mode of agriculture. The cotton-grounds
wjiich are below the narrow part of the valley,
consume all the water of the Cephissus in summer,
and leave it dry as far as the junction of the
Mavronero in the plain below Daulis.
A height which rises from the western side of
the village of Dhadhi and is named the Paleo
kastro, from some remains of Hellenic walls encir
cling the summit, was evidently the Acropolis of a

xi. J phocis. 75
town which occupied the side of the same rocky
height, as far as the edge of the cultivated slope
of Dhadhi.
An inscription in a church on the summit of the
hill shows this city to have been Amphicleia : a
fact very useful in arranging the rowodtaia of the
Phocian towns. Amphicleia, indeed, is not named
in the inscription ; but as the monument was
erected in the sacred inclosure of Bacchus, in
honour of one of his high-priests, and as Amphi
cleia was noted for the worship and orgies of that
deity, there can be little doubt of the identity ;
especially as Pausanias has not described any other
town of this valley as having contained a temple
of Bacchus. The orgies were celebrated in a
secret cell, into which Pausanias was not permitted
to enter. The inscription appears to be nearly of
his time, for the titles of the priest are exactly re-
ferrible to the political state in which he found
Greece. Marcus Ulpius Damasippus, therefore,
in whose honour the monument was raised, was
one of those priests who enounced the oracles of
Bacchus when under the influence of the Great
God, as he is termed in the inscription, and who
interpreted the dreams of suppliants for the cure
of their diseases. The monument was erected by
Quintilia Plutarcha, the wife of Damasippus, by
authority of the council and people '.
A papas of Dhadhi, who has succeeded to the
influence of the high-priest of Bacchus in this
1 The Inscription, when written in the cursive character, is as
follows : —

76 phocis. [chap.
place, and who has lately purchased a part of the
fertile valley on the banks of the Cephissus, near
the bridge, "points out to me from the church
in the Paleokastro the remains of another Hel
lenic ruin on the left bank of a deeply incased
rema, at a tjiftlik called Mulki, immediately below
the ruined mosque and village of Verzana, which
is said to have been formerly the chief town of this
district. Nov. 30.— Quitting Dhadhi at 9.30 for Velitza,
we continue to follow the foot of the great summits
of Parnassus nearly on the same level with Dhadhi ;
the Cephissus remaining at a distance of two or
three miles to the left. Having arrived at 9.52
at an opening between the acclivities of Par
nassus, where the ridge of Dhadhi terminates to
the eastward, we begin to descend, though still
^rityitTpaTi (iovXrjg Kal Bijfiov. M. OiXtriov —.apdanrirov ,
tov apyiEpia tov peydXov 8eov Aiovvaov, tov Botwrap^j/i', irarpbg
'Boitardpypv, OoiKap^rjv, 'Ap<ptKrvova, Qe{}KoXov, HaviXXriva, "Ap-
XpvTa Kal rag aXXag irdaag kv rrj irarplBi TEXktravra Xtrovpyiag,
KiVTvXia nXovTap^V V yvvrj tov "iBiov dvBpa Evvoiag Kal aperrjs
evekev Awvhoov kv TEfiEVEi. — See Inscription, No. 20.
The following is the passage vEpa atyunv ayaXpa, ovk eoti'
of Pausanias, which illustrates XiyETai Be vtto 'A/x(J)ikXeieu>v
this document. It is imperfect, pdvriv te aQio-i tov Oeov tovtov
but the parts bearing upon the k-al fionObv vbatav KadEOTrjKEvaf
inscription are not doubtful, Ta pkv Br) voaripara avrdlg 'Ap-
and the deficient words may <j>ikXeiev<ii Kal rolg irpoaoiKavoiv
be supplied by those between larai BC ovEipaTwv irpo/xavTig
the brackets : — GeSc Be pd- Be 6 ItpEvg karc \pq. Be ek tov
Xitrra a£t6v (koriv dBvTov, kv Oeov Kdro-)(og. — Pausan. Pho-
j>) Aioviatp Bpwaiv opyia' kcro- cic. c. 33.
Bog kg to dBvrov, ovBk kv <f>a-

xi. J phocis. 77
having the steep sides of the upper heights of Par
nassus close on the right. At 10.15 a road to the
left conducts to Turkokhorio and Talanda, and on
the opposite side of the Cephissus is seen the village
of Modhi, on the side of Mount Fondana, which,
except around that village, is uncultivated and
covered with shrubs. Towards Velitza, where~~"we
arrive at li.io, the Parnassian slope also becomes
very stony and uncultivated : this village, which
contains sixty or seventy families, is situated exactly
at the foot of the great heights of the mountain, where
a torrent, issuing from them, flows in a broad gra
velly bed at the foot of precipices which defend the
eastern side of Velitza. A gentle slope about four
miles in length falls from the village to the Cephissus.
The higher lands produce wheat and barley, the
lower cotton and maize, which are watered by de-
rivations from the torrent.
Velitza occupies the exact site of an ancient
polis, the ruined walls of which inclose the modern
houses to the west and south, and are continued on
the former side so as to include also a triangular
space of nearly the same superficial extent as the
village, on the face of a rocky peak which over
hangs it, and immediately above which rises one
of the highest of the snowy summits of Parnassus.
On some parts of the height the walls occupy situ
ations to which it would be difficult to climb.
Along the edge of the cliffs on the eastern side of
the Acropolis and modern village no walls are
traceable. Some of the towers are extant to more
than half their original height, with masonry in

78 phocis. [chap.
regular courses about eighteen inches high. The
material is the same as that of the rocky peak
behind the village, giving, together with that
peak, a white appearance to the place at a dis
tance, which probably suggested the modern
name. The church of Velitza is large and ancient,
in the form of a Greek cross, with a dome in the
middle ; among many spoils of Hellenic buildings
in the walls and pavement, is an inscribed stone of
a concave form, inserted in the usual semi-circular
recess behind the altar, from which we learn that
the ruins are those of Tithorea1. The torrent was
named Cachales, according to Pausanias, whose
remark, that the inhabitants descended to it for
the purpose of obtaining water2, accords with the
height of the village above the torrent. The town
had declined for a generation before the time of
the Greek traveller, who noticed, however, a the
atre, the inclosure of an ancient agora, an alsos and
temple of Minerva containing a statue of the god-
1 AvroKparopa 'Nkpfiav Walaapa, dp-^iEpka piyiOTOV, BtipapyiKrjg
k^ovalag, vttutov to S1, irarepa TrarplBog, r/ iroXig TiQop&tov Kal
T. <S>Xd/3wg SwKXapog Kal T. &Xd/3iog Airair .... Kal
T. $\a'/3ios Hb)XXiavbg"Apio-Tog.
The fourth consulship of xa\ij£. — Pausan. Phocic. c. 32.
Nerva was in A.D, 98, which The name was derived from
is therefore the date of the in- KaxXdgio, which expresses the
scription. sound of water flowing over
2 IIoTapbg Be napd twv Tt- KaxXrjKEg, or pebbles. Thus
dopkuv rr)v iroXiv ttotov atpicri Theocritus describes the sea :
yiVETai, KaTafiaivovol te kiri KaXd Kv/xara aav^a Ka-)(Xd-
rr)v o^Qijv cat dpvopkvoig to £ovTa ktr alytaXolo. — Idyll. 6,
vBu>p' ovopa Be ecttiv airtfi Ka- v. 13.

xi.J phocis. 79
dess, and a monument in^memory of Phocus and
his wife Antiope. 
^ In the time of Herodotus, Tithorea was known
by the name of Neon ; it was one of the towns oc
cupied by the Persians in their progress through
Phocis, after they had forced the defile of Thermo
pylae, when many of the Phocians took refuge in Am-
phissa, and others in the highest parts of Parnassus,
particularly on Mount Tithorea, near Neon, because
it was spacious, and capable of containing great num
bers of them1. As this description is scarcely appli
cable to the peak immediately above Velitza, which
is not very spacious, was included within the walls
of Tithorea, and could hardly have been excluded
from those of Neon, unless that city occupied a
much lower site, it might be supposed that the
Mount Tithorea of Herodotus was the great summit
of Parnassus above the peak of Velitza, which seems
the more likely, as Pausanias affirms that Tithorea
was the name anciently applied to the district2, and
that it was not until the population of the neigh
bouring villages was collected within the city which
subsisted until his time that the name of Tithorea
was given to it. Plutarch, however, in the life of
Sylla, favours the opposite opinion. He relates, that
when Hortensius marched from Thessaly to effect
a junction with Sylla on the frontiers of Phocis and
Bceotia, Caphis a Phocian led him round through
1 "E<rn Be Kal ETnTrjB£ri Be %ac6ai Herodot. 1. 8. c. 32. Pausan.
lipiXov tov Tlapvriao'ov fi Kopvij>r) Phocic. c. 32.
Kara NiWa iroXiv KEipivri kii 2 rrj airaay X<*,Pa-
EoivTijg' Tidopia ovvopa avrrj. —

80 phocis. [chap.
Parnassus for the purpose of avoiding Thermopylae,
which was in the hands of the army of Mithra-
dates, and that on this occasion the circuitous route
issued below Tithorea : — " a place," adds Plutarch,
" not such as the present city, but only a fortress
upon a precipitous rock, where the Phocians of old
took refuge from Xerxes." Whence it is evident
that he supposed the peak of Velitza to have been the
Mount Tithorea of Herodotus. However this may
have been, we learn at least from the same passage of
the biographer, that the city destroyed by the Per
sians was not yet revived in the Mithradatic war, and
as Greece was in the lowest state of misery between
that time and the beginning ofthe Roman Empire,
it was not probably until the latter period that the
Tithorea was built, which Plutarch, Pausanias, and
the inscription of Velitza, demonstrate to have ex
isted in the time of Nerva and the Antonines. The
extant walls, by the regularity of their masonry,
exactly accord with that degree of antiquity.
If the numbers of Pausanias are correct, the
district of Tithore was extensive, for he describes a
sacred adytum of Isis belonging to it distant forty
stades, and a temple of iEsculapiu^ Archagetes at
a distance of seventy stades. At the former there
was a festival twice a _yearP and a fair for trip snip
of slaves and cattle. Some of the sacred rites were
borrowed from the Egyptians. At the Asclepieium
there were habitations for the servants and suppli
ants of iEsculapius, and a temple which contained
a bearded statue of the god in stone. Pausanias has
not left us any means of judging of the direction of
either of these places from the city of Tithorea.

XI. J PHOCIS. 81
fhp district- i'n bjs ^i-ng, was celebrated for the ex
cellence of its olive

Tithorea is one of those situations abounding in
Greece, which were so well adapted to influence
the manners and character of the people, and to
produce the picturesque and poetical in every thing
relating to them. The distant prospect in the
northern and eastern quarters of the horizon is no
less beautiful than the nearer view ofthe great sum
mits of Parnassus appearing through the rocky ra
vine of the Cachales, and which being now covered
with snow, add a brilliant contrast to the woody pre
cipices of the mountain. The modern houses inter
spersed with gardens, and the ruined walls of the
ancient city, complete the embellishments of this
interesting scene. There is no road in common
use from Velitza across the mountain, either to
Arakhova or Kastri, and the inhabitants penetrate
no farther than a woody slope at a small distance,
where they cut fire wood. In the time of Pausa
nias there were two roads from Tithorea across the
mountain to Delphi, one direct1, the other longer,
but practicable to wheel carriages. The two routes
probably coincided as far as the extremity of the
ravine of the Cachales, after which the carriage
road may have crossed the plain anciently belong
ing to Lycoreia, and now to Arakhova, and below
the latter may have joined the road to Delphi from
the Schiste, thus diverging to the left of the direct

1 Pausanias (Phocic. c. 32.) number cannot be correct, as
assigns 80 stades as the length the direct distance is hardly
of the shorter road, but this less than 12 G. M.
VOL. II. G

82 phocis. [chap.
route from Tithorea, which probably joined that
from Lilaea, just above the Delphic cliffs, where
remains of the ancient way still exist. It is not
impossible that the carriage road might still be
traced by the marks of the wheels in the rocks.
The Proestos of Velitza, an old man whom I
find winding cotton in his gallery, shows me, on
the opposite sicfeof the Cephissian valley, the small
village of Lefta, which he has often visited, and
out of respect to its Hellenic remains calls Lefto-
poli. It lies a little to the right of the pass of
Fondana, on the modern route from Pundonitza to
Turkokhorio, the position of which may be recog
nized at a great distance by a remarkable rocky
peak, near one of the highest summits of the ridges
of Cnemis.
Meletius reports the following inscription as ex
isting at Lefta in his time :
AvTOKpdropa KaiVapa Ma'pKov AvpijXiov JLvtrcfirj —ejiaorbv Me-
yiarov, y] BovX^ Kal b Afjp.og 'KXaTEwv.
This inscription, therefore, as well as the modern
name, leave not a doubt of Lefta having been the
site of Elateia, and the fact is confirmed by every
mention of it in ancient history. Lefta, like Ve
litza, stands at the head of a long slope reaching
to the river, from which it is a mile more distant
than Velitza. Placed about the middle of the
great fertile basin which extends near twenty miles
from the narrows of the Cephissus below Amphi
cleia, to those which are at the entrance into
Bozotia, it was admirably situated for commanding
the passes leading into Southern Greece from the
Transoetaan provinces. Hence it may have been,
13

XI.J

PHOCIS.

83

that Elateia, which was unknown to Homer, became,
under a different state of society and general politics,
the greatest city in Phocis, and about the time when
Greece was threatened with subjectionTo Macedo-

liaTwaslnore important than Del

Kla.tp.ia.

was then the key of Southern Greece, as Demos
thenes and iEschines show, as well as the conster
nation of the Athenians, when Philip seized the
place, not long before the battle of Chaeroneia1.
A little below Lefta stands the large village of
Dhragoma.no, or Tragomano, to the left of which
is seen Essed, or Turkokhorio, not far from the
river side. Near the road from Velitza to Turko
khorio, on the right bank of the Cephissus, are the
vestiges of a Hellenic town. The ruins are now

1 Pausanias (Phocic. c. 34.)
describes Elateia as the largest
town in Phocis except Delphi,
and as situated over against
Amphicleia, the road thither
leading, for the greater part,
through the plain of the Ce
phissus, and gently rising to
the walls of Elateia, which is
exactly conformable to the
reality. — Strabo, p. 424.
Pausanias admired the agora
of TSlateia, in which was the
stele of Elatus and a temple of
jEsculapius, containing a beard
less statue of the gad, made by
two Athenian artists, Timocles
and Timarchides. The Elatei-
enses had also a theatre ; an an
cient brazen image of Minerva ; G

and on the summit of a steep
mountain, 20 stades above the
city, a temple of Minerva Cra-
naea, containing anarmed statue
of the goddess, by the sons of
Polycles of Athens, who had
represented on the shield of
the goddess the same subjects
which adorned that of Minerva
in the Parthenon, namely, the
battle of the Amazons and the
Gigantomachia. There were
stoae and habitations for the
servants of the temple, and
particularly for the priest, who
was a boy constantly residing
there for five years and then
changed for another. Some
remains ofthe temple still exist
on the mountain above Lefta,
2

84 phocis. [chap.
called Palea Fiva. Meletius writes the name IlaXatat
9^/3ai, but 3>n)3a is the vulgar pronunciation in this
part of the country.
Having now visited either in this or my former
journey, the principal ancient positions in the
valleys of the Upper Cephissus and its branches,
and having ascertained the situation of some
which I have not visited, I shall endeavour to
apply the ancient names to the several sites which
still bear evidences of antiquity, taking for granted
from what has already been stated, that those
of Amphicleia, Tithorea, and Elateia, are indis
putably determined. It seems almost equally
certain, that the Paleokastro or Hellenic ruins,
half a mile westward of the Kefalovryses, or
sources of the Cephissus, which I visited on my
former journey, having crossed thither from Delphi
by Aguriani, are the remains of Lilaea ; that route
being the most direct and easy passage across the
mountain, could not have been any other than the
road alluded to by Pausanias, when he says that
the distance from Delphi to Lilaea was 180 stades l,
with which our time distance of six hours and a
half sufficiently accorded. As to the remark of
Pausanias, that the source of the Cephissus very
often issues from the earth, especially towards
noon, with a noise resembling the roaring of a
bull, I was not surprised to find that the present
natives had never made any such observation at
Kefalovryses, though they admit that the water
1 Pausan. Phocic. c. 33.

xi. J phocis. 85
often rises suddenly from the ground in larger
quantities than usual, which cannot but be accom
panied with some noise. The Megales Vryses, on
the other hand, do not intermit, and are sur
rounded with marshy ground.
I am thus particular in showing that the ruins
at Paleokastro are those of Lilaea, because the de
scription which Pausanias has given of Charadra,
as situated on a lofty rock ', agrees in this par
ticular with the ruins. But there are some insur
mountable objections to the site being that of Cha
radra. Upon an examination of them, it is found
that all the principal part of the city stood in the
plain at the foot of the rocks, that the precipitous
part was the citadel only, that the whole was a
much larger place than one can imagine Charadra
to have been ; and that exactly at the Kefalo
vryses, where we should in that case be inclined
to look for Lilaea, there are no remains except
those of a single building, probably a temple,
which may have been sacred to the river-god
himself, as Pausanias states, that sacred rites in
honour of Cephissus were celebrated at the sources
of the river2. When to these considerations is

1 XapdBpa Be eikoiji oraBwig 2 An absurd idea prevailed,
cnrwTEph) eo-tiv inrkp viprjXov and which had been sanctioned
KEipivn Kpripvov Kal vBarog ol by Alcaeus in a hymn to Apol-
kvravda oiravi?ovoiv iivOpio- lo, that the Castalia at Delphi
vol- wotov Be a<j>iffi Trorapog was derived from the sources
£oti XdpaBpog KarEpxopkvoig of the Cephissus, although in
oitov rpia ett' avrbv ardBia- fact the former is in a much
ekBIBoxtiv Be kg tov Kntpiircov. — higher situation. To show
Pausan. Phocic. c. 33. their belief in the fable, or

86 phocis. [chap.
added the testimony of the same ancient traveller
that the Charadraei suffered from a want of water,
whereas there are some abundant springs close to
the ancient walls at Paleokastro, with the Kefalo
vryses at a very short distance ; and when it is
further remarked that Pausanias describes the tor
rent of Charadra as being three stades distant
from the town, whereas that of Paleokastro is
close to the ruined walls, we can have no hesita
tion in rejecting the opinion that Paleokastro was
Charadra, and cannot but conclude that it was
Lilaea. It then becomes a question whether Charadra,
which Pausanias places at twenty stades beyond
Lilaea, coming from Delphi, stood at Suvala to
the eastward, or at Mariolates to the westward of
Paleokastro, at both which places there are re
mains of a small fortified town. Two reasons sup
port the former opinion : 1 . The distance of twenty
stades is nearly that of Suvala from Paleokastro,
whereas Mariolates is more distant; and 2. The
torrent at the latter does not join the Cephissus,
but is a branch of the river of Gravia, which itself
joins the Apostolia before the latter is united with
the Cephissus.
Placing Amphicleia at Dhadhi, there can hardly
remain a doubt that the ruins opposite to it at
Mulki, below Verzana, where a torrent unites with
their veneration for it, the aXXa biroaa vopl&vtnv?) into
Lilaeenses on certain stated the source of the Cephissus,
days, threw cakes and other which were said to reappear in
things, regulated by ancient the Castalia. — Pausan. Phoc.
custom, {rrEppara eVixwp'a Kal c. 8.

xi. J phocis. 87
the Cephissus, are those of Tithronium ; for Pau
sanias describes that place as being in the plain,
(meaning the valley,) fifteen stades beyond Am
phicleia1 — that is to say beyond Amphicleia, ac
cording to the direction which he had been pur
suing from Delphi by Lilaea ; and the distance of
those ruins from Dhadhi, although I think under
rated at fifteen stades, is not far from the truth.
The ruins near Klunista, which I visited from
Ternitza, accord equally with those of Drymaea,
those ruins being about twenty stades from the
former, which is the distance stated by the ancient
traveller between Tithronium and Drymaea, though
in this instance also the interval assigned by Pausa
nias appears to me to be below the reality. The
three places were so situated that we may easily
1 'Ap<j>iKXEiac Be airioTEpu) Xoyovg *, Nav/3o\£t£ Be rd dp-
(TraBloig TTEVTEKaiBEKa Ian Tt- \aiOTepa' Kal o'tKicrTt)v [Xkyov-
dpitviov kv weBIio keiiievov' 7rap- <7ivJ ol kvravda yEVEffQat 0<pl(Jl
EVErat <5e ovBev Eg pvriprjv. 'Ek QSkov ira'tBa tov AlaKov. Ar)-
Tidpwviov Be e'ikoviv kg Apv- prirpog Be de(rpo(p6pov Apvpaiotg
palav (rrdBioC Kadori Be avrr\ lepbv kariv apxa'tov Kal dyaXpa
r) 6Bbg Kal t) kg Apvpalav ki, opOov XiOov TrEiroir}TaC Kal avrij
'A/xdnKXEiag r) EvdEla trepl tov Qeapotpopia EopTrfv dyovciv ette-
Kr}<j>i(Tffbv avppioyovaiv, eotiv teiov. — Pausan. Phocic. c. 33.
'AwoXXuvog T&pwvevoiv kv- Naubolus, from whom the
ravda dX<rog te Kal fiwpoi' ite- Naubolenses took their name,
¦woirrrai ce Kal vabg' ayaXpa Be was an ancient Phocian hero,
ovk inriv' aTTEXEi Be ' Ap<j>iKXeiag the father of Iphitus : 'lcplrov
fj Apv fiala araBiovg dyBorjKovra NavfioXiBdo. — Horn. II. B. v.
diroTpairkvTi kg apiaTEpdv, [_Apv- 518, and one of the Argonauts.
uog KaXovpivrf\ Kara 'UpoBbrov Apollod. 1. 1. c. 9.
* Herodot. 1. 8. c. 33.

88 phocis. [chap.
imagine Pausanias to have been correct in his subse
quent remark, that the road from Amphicleia to
Drymaea joined that from Tithronium to Drymaea
near the Cephissus ; since it might be more con
venient to follow the river from Tithronium to
Drymaea, than to make a more direct course over
the heights. As Pausanias adds that, at the junc
tion of the roads, there was a grove containing
altars and a temple of Apollo without a statue,
within the limits of the Tithronenses ; and that the
turning to the left led to Drymaea, it seems evident
that the grove of Apollo stood on the left bank of
the Cephissus, and that the direct road from Am
phicleia crossed the Cephissus near the temple,
where a turning to the right led to Tithronium and
on the left to Drymaea.
The words of Pausanias, therefore, so perfectly
accord, in their general purport, with the three
positions of Dhadhi, and the two ancient sites below
Verzana and Ternitza, that we may be assured of
the identity of the two latter with Tithronium and
Drymaea respectively, although the number of
stades stated in the text of the ancient traveller
may not be correct. The error, indeed, in the word
eighty, which he assigns as the number of stades
between Amphicleia and Drymaea, is self-evident,
if the two other distances, which amount only to
thirty-five stades, are correct.
As Pausanias has not noticed any of the places,
of which remains are still found in or around the
valley lying westward of the sites of Drymaea and
Lilaea, it may be inferred that no part of that valley

xi. J phocis. 89
belonged, at least in his time, to the Phocic com
munity, but was all included in Doris, the position
of which district on this frontier of Phocis is clearly
shown by Lilaea, Drymaea and Tithronium having
been sometimes attributed to Doris l. Herodotus
describes Doris as lying between Trachinia and
Phocis, and as occupying a breadth of only thirty
stades. The Persians marched through it from
Trachinia, but spared it because the Dorians had
joined them, after which "following the Cephissus,
they destroyed every thing ; and burnt the cities
Drymus, Charadra, Erochus, Tethronium, Amphi-
caea, Neon, the cities of the Pedieis, and Tritaeeis,
Elateia, Hyampolis, Parapotamii, and Abae2."
Erochus and Tritaea not being even named by
Pausanias, their site was perhaps unknown in his
time, and it is a mere conjecture, deduced from
the order of the enumeration of Herodotus, and the
general distribution of the other ancient sites, that I
have placed those names on the map. The city of
the Pedienses we might presume, from the same
indication added to that of the name, to have stood
near the Cephissus, in some part of the plain be
tween Tithorea and Elateia. It is precisely in this
situation, that the ruins at Palea. Fiva are found.
As Herodotus has not named Ledon, it is not im
probable that the city of the Pedienses may be the
same place as Ledon, which, in the time of Pausa-

1 Ptolem. 1. 3. c. 15. Philip- Elatiam, &c. — Liv. 1. 28. c. 7.
pus Tritonon [lege Tithronium] Schol. Pindar, Pyth. 1. v. 121.
etDrymas Doridis, parva atque Schol. Aristoph. Plut. v. 385.
ignobilia oppida cepit : inde 2 Herodot. 1. 8. c. 31, 33.

90 DORIS. [chap.
nias had been abandoned, and the name transferred
to a few habitations on the river's bank, forty stades
below the former position1.
Lilaea not being comprehended by Herodotus
among the towns which were destroyed by the
Persians, would seem at that time to have belonged
to the Dorienses, who, having medized, were spared
by the invaders 2. Whence, probably, some later
authors have ascribed it to Doris, though in general
it was considered a Phocic city. But it was evi
dently, therefore, on the frontier, and the ruins,
consequently, at Mariolates and Gravia are cer
tainly those of two of the Dorian towns. The
breadth of thirty stades, which Herodotus assigns
to Doris, agrees nearly with the extent of the valley
of the Apostolia from the foot of Mount Parnassus,
where Mariolates and Gravia are situated, to that
of Mount QZta, where the road from Zituni to Sa
lona, after crossing that mountain by the pass of
Nevropoli, enters the valley of the Apostolia. It
cannot be doubted, therefore, that all this valley was
a part of Doris. From Strabo, likewise, notwith
standing the imperfection of his text, the extent and
position of Doris may be understood, and even some
details of its topography3. He observes that the
Western Locris was separated from the Eastern by
Mount Parnassus, which extended northward from
the neighbourhood of Delphi to the junction of the
OZtaean with the iEtolian mountains, and to the
Dorians which lay between them; — that Phocis was

1 Pausan. Phocic. c. 33. 3 Strabo, pp. 417. 427.
2 Herodot. 1. 8. c. 31.

XI. J DORIS. 91
thus conterminous with both divisions of Locris, —
that on the western side of Parnassus dwelt the Locri
Ozolae, some of the Dorians and the iEtolians of
Mount Corax, and-on_the eastern side of the same
mountain the PhocianTandT the Dorians of Tetra-
""poTTs, who formed the larger portion ot that nation,
and who extended from Parnassus towards the
east \ The latter passage of the Geographer ex
plains those authorities which ascribe to Doris a
greater number of towns than four, and shows
exactly the position both of the Tetrapolis and of
the remaining portion of Doris. The latter, which
lay between the Locri Ozolae and Mount Corax,
comprehended the mountains on the right, or
western side, of the pass leading from Gravia to
Salona. The towns of this portion of Doris would
seem to have been Amphanae and Metropolis, for
Stephanus describes these as places in Doris 2.
According to Strabo, the four towns of the Tetra
polis, were Erineus, Bceum, Pindus and Cytinium,
some of which names are confirmed by several
other authors 3. He adds, that Pindus stood above
Erineus, that it was sometimes called Acyphas,
and that a river of the same name as the town,
1 to Be irpbg £&> <fcwKE~ig Kal Tetrapolis confined upon the
AiopiE'ig ol rrXEiovg, 'kxovTEg ryv northern, not the eastern side
TETpaTroXiv irapaKEipkvriv ir(og of Parnassus.
tH TlapvaacriS TrXEOvd^ovcav Be 2 Stephan. in 'Ap<j>dvat, Av-
To'ig irpbg eu> pkpEUiv. — p. 417. pav, Mr]Tp6iroXig.
Some correction must here be ' Ptolem. 1. 3. c. 15. Plin.
allowed in the bearing : a par- 1. 4. c. 7. Scylax. — Scymn.
ticular in which the ancients Ch. v. 592. Diodor. 1. 4. c. 67.
were often inaccurate. The 1. 11. c. 79.

92 DORIS. [chap.
flowed by the walls x, and joined the Cephissus
near Lilaea.
It is evident, upon comparing this passage with
my former remark, as to the junction of the river
now called Apostolia with the Cephissus, not far
below the sources of the latter, that the Apostolia
was the ancient Acyphas or Pindus, and conse
quently, that upon its banks we should search for
Erineus and Pindus. Of these the latter, as well
from its name, which is a word belonging to a lofty
situation, as from a remark of Strabo, that the
town of Acyphas was considered to belong to the
(Etaean cantons, was probably towards the sources
of the river in the mountain, which is connected
northward with the Patriotiko or CEta proper ;
and which to the south gives rise to the river
Mornos, which joins the sea near 'Epakto. The
other two towns of the Tetrapolis were in the
situations already noticed, at Mariolates and at
Gravia. Of these, there can be little doubt that Gravia
was the ancient Cytinium, Thucydides having de
scribed the position of Cytinium in a manner not
to be mistaken, in his account of the expedition of
Demosthenes from Naupactus, in the sixth year of
the Peloponnesian war 2 ; when Demosthenes in
tended, if he had been successful over the iEtolians,
to have then passed through the Locri Ozolae,
leaving Parnassus on his right, to Cytinium of
Doris, and from thence to descend into Phocis,
1 Strabo, p. 427- — Stepha- four towns, on the authority of
nus (in 'AKv<j>ag) confirms the Theopompus.
naine of Acyphas as one of the 2 Thucyd. 1. 3. c. 95.

XI. J DORIS. 93
the people of which were to have assisted him
against Bceotia.
Gravia stands exactly at the northern entrance
of the pass leading from the valley of Doris to the
plain of Amphissa, in the middle of the isthmus in
cluded between the Maliac and Crissaean gulfs.
The defile is formed by the ravines of two torrents
flowing in opposite directions ; namely, that of
Gravia, which, as I have already remarked, joins
the Apostolia near the union of the latter with the
Cephissus, and that of another stream which crosses
the plain of Amphissa into the Crissaean Bay : the
two ravines form a complete separation of the
highlands of this part of Greece, dividing Parnassus
from the mountains which are connected with the
iEtolian and CEtaean summits, and which thus
exactly correspond to the country of the avd pso-ov
AwpiEic, or intermediate Dorians of Strabo.
It is obvious that a fortified town at the entrance
of such a defile, was of great military importance,
and of this we find two examples in history,
besides that which has already been alluded to.
Soon after that unsuccessful expedition of De
mosthenes against iEtolia, Eurylochus, at the
head of 2500 Spartans and 500 Heracliotae, pre
pared to march from Delphi through the western
Locris to assist the iEtolians against Naupactus,
and made choice on this occasion of Cytinium, as
the place in which he secured the hostages whom
he had received from the Locrians. But the most
remarkable instance is, the occupation of Cytinium
by Philip of Macedonia, when he took possession
also of Elateia, not long before the battle of Chae-

94 phocis. [chap.
roneia '. It was on hearing that the Athenians
had decreed to support the resistance of the Am-
phissienses to the Amphictyonic council, that Philip
took this step, of which the object and consequence
were, the capture of Amphissa, the approach to
that place from the northward having been com
pletely commanded by Cytinium. If Cytinium
was at Gravia, it will follow that the ruins near
Mariolates are those of Bceum.
Herodotus relates that Doris was anciently named
Dryopis2, but in later times they were distinguished,
and Dryopis like Doris was a tetrapolis 3. In the
time of Strabo it was comprehended as well as the
Parasopias, and a town named GEniadae, in the
CEtaea, which even included Acyphas of Doris to
the S.W., and Anticyra of Melis to the N.E 4. It
is evident, from these testimonies regarding Dry
opis, together with another fact stated by Strabo,
namely, that Tymphrestus, at the sources of the
Spercheius, now Velukhi, was a Dryopic mountain,
that Dryopis occupied the mountainous country
extending from the head of the valley of the Apos
tolia towards Mount Velukhi and Karpenisi.
At 12.55 we quit Velitza, and continue to follow
the foot of the great steeps of Parnassus at the head
of a long slope, stony and quite uncultivated, which
descends from our road to the river, until at 1.32,
having a monastery of the Panaghia half an hour
on the right, on the side of the mountain, we turn
1 AvoipaxlBrig' AxapvEvg- knl 2 Herodot. 1. 8. c. 31.
tovtov QiXiinrov KaraXafiovrog s Strabo, p. 434.
'EXarEiav Kal livriviov. — Phi- ' Ibid.
lochor. ap. Dionys. p. 742.

xi. J phocis. 95
to the left of the upper road leading to the Zimeno
pass, and descend towards the Stena (Vd 2reva), as
the narrow valley is now called, through which the
Cephissus enters the Boeotian plains. Having passed
the Dhrakoptymata ', as two large natural basins
in the ground are called, one of which is 150 yards
in diameter, forming a perfect circle with a very
regular hollow within, we leave, a quarter of an
hour farther, the village of Aghia Marina a little
on the right, and descend exactly in the direction
of the peaked summit of Mount Khlomo, passing
between the lower heights of Parnassus, and an in
sulated rocky hill which here terminates the upper
or Phocian valley of the Cephissus. This hill, which
stands exactly on the foot of the great slope of
Parnassus, is very steep on every side except the
south-east, where it throws out a low termination,
between which and another low height quite insu
lated, there is a narrow plain. At the foot of the
latter height, to the south, stands a village called
Krevasara, and along its eastern side flows the Ce
phissus, beyond which is another small insulated
height near the foot of a rocky mountain, which
rises from thence and takes a north-eastern direc
tion towards Talanda. The approaches, therefore,
to the straits leading into Basotia from the plain of
Elateia, are on either side of the hill of Krevasara.
To the left of the Cephissus are the small villages
of Sfaka, Merali, Khubavo, and Belissi vulgarly
1 BpaKoirXvpara : the word or terrible. The analogous
BpvKujv, properly a serpent, sig- name in English to BpaKoirXi-
nifies, when thus used in com- juara, would be, the Devil's
position, any thing monstrous wash-tubs.

96 phocis. [chap.
called Belish K Sfaka and Khiibavo are on oppo
site sides of the extremity of the mountain just
mentioned ; Merali stands on a small insulated
height between them, and Belissi is opposite to
Khubavo, at the foot of a mountain similar and
parallel to the former, and separated from it by a
valley a mile in width. Between Merali and Khii
bavo, the river Kineta issues from a small lake
which extends northward round the extreme point
ofthe mountain as far as Sfaka, and having received
a torrent which rises in Mount Khlomo, joins the
Cephissus, near the khan of the Kady which I visited
in my former journey, and which stands on the
right bank of the latter river, two miles below
Krevasara, where is a bridge over the river in the
narrowest part of the Stena or Straits. Though the
lake which feeds the Kineta is supplied from sub
terraneous springs, these are not always sufficient
to afford a running stream in summer. At 2.23
we arrive at Bissikeni 2, vulgarly Bishken, which
stands in a narrow plain between the heights of
Parnassus and the larger and more western of the
two insulated rocky heights before mentioned.
The proestos and inhabitants know of no ancient
remains in this vicinity, except at a height on the
left bank of the Kineta, and a tower at the south
eastern extremity of the heights in proceeding from
Bissikeni to the bridge near the Kady's Khan. The
latter is described by the proestos as a paaropiKov
¦n-paypa, meaning such as modern masons construct,

1 -QaKa, M.Epa\ij, Xovpiraflog, M.tteXkto-1.
2 yiiriiraiKEvi,

xi. J phocis. 97
but the remains near Belissi, he states to be of large
wrought masses of stone. Their position in the
Stena seems to correspond exactly with that of
Parapotamii as indicated by Theopompus, who, in
a passage preserved by Strabo, states that Para
potamii stood at a distance of forty stades from
Chaeroneia in the entrance from Bceotia into Phocis,
on a height of moderate elevation, situated between
Parnassus and Mount Edylium, — that these two
mountains were separated from each other by an
interval of five stades, through which the Cephissus
flowed ; and that Mount Edylium extended from
thence sixty stades as far as Hyphanteium, on
which Orchomenus was built \
Having remained half an hour at Bissikeni, we
proceed, in one hour precisely, to Dhavlia. The
road follows an opening which separates the higher
Ap. Strabo, n. p. 424. of Strabo, that Anemoreia stood
According to the text of Stra- on a part of Mount Parnassus,
bo, Theopompus added the re- which served as a boundary be-
mark that Parapotamii served tween the Delphi and the other
as a boundary to the people of Phocians, when the Lacedas-
Panopeus, Daulis and Ambrys- monians had separated the for-
sus QApPpvakag), but this last mer from the rest of the Phocic
word is obviously erroneous, community, there seems no si-
Ambryssus having been near tuation that will conform to the
the Corinthiac Gulf: perhaps several data so well as that ad-
we ought to read 'AvEpvpiag, vanced summit of the Parnas-
for the verse of Homer On" sian ridge which lies to the
'AvEuu>pEiav Kal 'Ya/xiroXiv dp- south of Bissikeni, and which
<pevifi.ovTO, by coupling Anemo- forms with the opposite moun-
reia with Hyampolis, appears tain, Edylium, the pass of Pa-
to place the former on this fron- rapotamii, or Stena of the
tier of Phocis. If we compare Cephissus.
this indication with the remark
VOL. II. H

98 phocis. [chap.
Parnassian ridges from the advanced mountain
which forms the western side of the Stena. of the
Cephissus. The pass is a narrow valley, cultivated
only in the parts towards Dhavlia. The road is
much shorter than by the Stena, and in winter has
tb^JWtbpr- arW^tacrp nf avoiding the marshy or
muddy valley near that river. It is probably the
route by which Hortensius eluded the enemy in the
Elatic Plain, and effected a junction with Sylla at
Patronis \ The issue of the pass is at the upper
extremity of a vale branching from the plain of
Chceroneia, and terminating at the foot of the great
summits of Parnassus. Many streams water this
valley, turn severaLjnills, and then uniting take
a northerly course, close to~the foot of the Heights
by the village J^hasnesiTbelow which the stream
enters the plain and joins the Mavronero or Mavro-
neri, a copious perennial stream, which issues from
the foot of the same mountain a mile beyond Khas-
nesi. On the southern face of the height which
bounds the vale to the south, stands the village
of Dhavlia, separated by a hollow from another
height, on which are some remains of the Acropolis
of the ancient Daulis. The name had assumed
the form AavXaa as early as the time of Strabo,
but is now by the vulgar more commonly accented
on the last syllable, Dhavlia. The modern village
belongs to Hassan Bey of Livadhia, now residing
in 'Egripo, and whose father was pasha, of the latter
place. It contains forty houses. The inhabitants
cultivate vineyards in the upper valleys and on the
1 Plutarch, in Sylla.

xi. J phocis. 99
sides of the hills, and corn in the plain below, and
exercise the trade of agoyates with their mules.
Dec. 1. — The vale between Dhavlia and the
site of the ancient Daulis is covered with vine^
yards, and refreshed by many springs and rivulets,
which, in the plain below, join a branch of the
Cephissus called Platania, which receives all the
torrents from the adjacent slopes of Parnassus, Cir-
phis and Helicon, and has its extreme sources at
Dhistomo, but is nevertheless dry in summer. The
Platania unites with the Mavroneri very near the
junction of the latter with the Cephissus. It is to
the Mavroneri that the Cephissus owes its water in
summer, for I found it dry in July above the junc
tion of the Mavroneri, even as high up as a little be
low Dhadhi, where its waters were consumed by the
plantations of cotton and kalambokki, whereas it con
tained water below the junction of the Mavroneri,
and even as far as Skripu. Hence, below the
junction, the Cephissus is now called Mavroneri or
Mavronero, and above it the river of Dhadhi, or
simply to irordpi. Below the Kineta, which it re
ceives in the narrowest part of the Stena, it turns
to the eastward, and continues, all the way to Or-
chomenus, to flow at a small distance from the foot of
the mountain which extends from the Stena. to
Skripu in a high stony ridge, subdivided into two
nearly equal parts by a small branch of the river.
This mountain, the same which I before described
as parallel to that of Khubavo, and which Theopom
pus so clearly indicates under the name of Edylium,
was sometimes called Acontium in its whole extent,
for Strabo remarks that Mount Acontium extended
h 2

100 PHOCIS. [chap.
from Orchomenus to Parapotamii \ and attributes
to it the same length as Theopompus 2. Properly,
however, it would seem that Hyphanteium was the
eastern extremity ofthe ridge, Acontium its highest
point, and Edylium the division of it westward of
the small branch of the Cephissus above mentioned ;
for Plutarch mentions a place called Assia as
situated between Edylium and Acontium 3.
The entire circuit of the walls of the acropolis
of Daulis, which seems to have been nearly cir
cular, and formed of masonry almost regular, may
be traced on the summit of the height which rises
opposite to the modern village to the south. Within
the inclosure is an old church of St. Theodore,
containing a marble inscribed with small and very
ancient characters, so nearly obliterated that I
have not attempted to copy them ; there is also an
inscription of nameson ablockofvariegatedmarble.
Three or four years ago, in the vineyards at the foot
of the height on the north, a more interesting monu
ment was found, which having been conveyed to
Dhavlia, now stands before the door of the church.
It is a quadrangular stele, four feet six inches long,
one foot three inches broad, and ten inches thick,
adorned only with a simple moulding at the top.

1 LTporEpor ^eV oiv oiKEltrdai 2 rb Ce AavXiov (^RBiXiov)
tov 'OpxbfJ-Evov (paaiv kiri keBIui. irapaTEtvEiv k(j>' Efy'iKovra trraBia
ETrnroXa£6vTU>v Be tG>v vBdrwv pEXPL tov 'YipavTEtov k(f w KETrat
avoiKiadrjvai Trpbg rb 'Akovtiov b 'OpxbpEvog. — Theopomp. ap.
opog TtaparE'ivov kiri Eh'jKovra Strab. p. 424.
oraBiovg pEXpl Xlapanorapiiav s kv pktTk) tov' Akovtiov Kalrov
roiv kv rp <t>h)Kt'Bi. — Strabo, p. 'HSvXi'ou, Trpoc roTc XEyofikvoig
-116. 'Ao-alois. — Plutarch, in Sylla.

XI. J PHOCIS. 101
One of the broad sides is inscribed with forty-seven
lines, and one of the narrow sides with forty-nine
lines. The monument records an arbitration con
cerning the property and boundaries of certain
lands in the district of Daulis, made at Chaeroneia
on the 24th of October, in the year of our aera 1 18 \
The following is a translation of the inscription on
the broad dimension of the stone.
" With good fortune to the consuls, the emperor
Trajan Adrian Caesar Augustus, the second time,
and Cneius Pedanius Fuscus Salinator, on the 9th
of the Calends of November, in Chaeroneia. Zo-
pyrus, son of Aristion, and Parmenon, son of
Zopyrus, acting on behalf of the city of Daulis,
have witnessed the following as a faithful copy of
the underwritten decision of Titus Flavius Eubulus :
I, T. F. Eubulus, having been appointed judge
and arbiter by the proconsul Caesius Maximus,
and having acted under the inspection of the pro
consul Valerius Severus, between Zopyrus son of
Aristion and Parmenon son of Zopyrus and
Memmius Antiochus, concerning the land in dis
pute, have, after hearing each side as long as they
wished, and after an actual inspection of the place,
and upon receiving an order from the excellent
proconsul Clodius Granianus 2 to declare my deci
sion, adjudge as is underwritten. Four hundred and
1 See the Greek text at the vels in the East, vol. i. p. 459,
end of this volume. Copies of vol. ii. p. 513.
the inscriptions in Greek capi- 2 Thus it appears, that dur-
tals may be seen in the Rev. ing the process there were three
R. Walpole's collection of Tra- different proconsuls.

102 phocis. [chap.
thirty-five Phocic plethra of the land called Dryp-
pius, which appear from the writings exhibited to
me to have been purchased by Memmius An
tiochus from the heirs of Cleon, belong to
Antiochus ; whatever exceeds this quantity (in
Dryppius) is the property of the city of the
Daulienses. In like manner, in the land Euxyleia
four hundred and thirty plethra I judge to belong
to Antiochus, and the remainder to the city. The
beginning of the measurements in the lands Dryp
pius and Euxyleia shall be commenced wherever An
tiochus may think proper ; but in Platanus and Mos-
chotomeae the measure for both parties shall begin
in the same place, and from thence the remainder
of the measurement shall proceed ; and in all these
measurements no account shall be taken of tor
rents or rugged places, or such as cannot be culti
vated if they exceed the dimensions of ten sphyrae '.
The following persons were present : I, Titus Fla-
vius Eubulus, have declared my determination and
affixed my seal. Lucius Mestrius Soclarus ; Cleo-
menes, son of Cleomenes ; Neicon, son of Sym-
phorus ; Lamprias, son of Neicon ; Zopyrus, son
of Antipatrus ; Sosibius, son of Dracon ; Neicon,
son of Alexandrus ; Leon, son of Theodotus ;
Callon, son of Phylax ; Cassius, son of Martianus.
By a decree ofthe city."
On the narrow side of the stele is the following :
1 This is evidently a super- patches than ten sphyrae were
ficial measure, probably a divi- not to be accounted for.
sion of the plethrum. Smaller

xi. J phocis. 103
" The road to the Archagetes shall be two calami ¦
in breadth. They shall jointly engrave the land
marks and boundaries of the measurements within
the twentieth day of the twelfth month, we exa
mining them when they shall be engraved. Con
cerning the land Dryppius, we adjudge, from a
view of the writing exhibited by Serapias, son of
Zopyrus the agent 2, and by the Archons Philon,
son of Sosicrates, and Damon, son of Zopyrus,
that if any thing should be wanting to the four
hundred and thirty-five plethra assigned by the
decision of Eubulus, Serapias shall have a right to
demand it from the city ofthe Daulienses. These
were present: I, Curius Autobulus, adjudged, and
sealed the first seal. I, Nicephorus, son of Lyco-
medes, adjudged ; I, Agasias, son of Timon, ad
judged ; I, Publius iELius Damoxenus, sealed the
fourth seal ; Eisid(otus) thefifth ; Metrodorus,son of
Apollodotus of Anticyra ; Neicaretus, son of Pistus
of Tithorea ; I, Tyrannus, son of Tyrannus, sealed ;
Acindynus, son of Callicrates of Tithorea ; Sextus
Cornelius Axiochus ; Eunus, son of Epaphras ; I,
Callinicus, son of Cleonicus of Tithorea, sealed."

1 The KaXapog was a linear was probably long posterior ;
measure ; if it was nearly equal for it would seem that Zopyrus
to the modern Italian canna, was now absent or dead, that
the road was about fifteen feet one of his sons had obtained
in breadth. the interest of Antiochus in
2 tov kyBUov. Zopyrus was the land Dryppius, and that
the colleague of Parmenon on another was one of the Archons
behalf of Daulis in the former of Daulis.
affair, to which this judgment

104 phocis. [chap.
Pausanias, who visited Daulis about fifty years
after the date of this inscription, remarks, that
there was a place in the Daulia named Tronis,
where stood the heroic monument of a hero called
the Archagetes, whom some supposed to be Xan-
thippus, a warrior ; others Phocus, son of Orny-
tion1. It is evidently to this place that the begin
ning of the second inscription refers, where it is
said that "the road to the Archagetes shall have
a breadth of two calami." It is not impossible that
Tronis is an erroneous reading for Patronis, the
name, according to Plutarch, of the place where
Sylla was encamped before he was joined by Hor-
tensius, who, as I have already remarked, proba
bly arrived through the same pass which I traversed
from Bissikeni into the valley northward of Dhav
lia. The biographer, indeed, describes Patronis as
being in the plain of Chaeroneia, but the whole
plain, as far as the pass of the Cephissus, was un
doubtedly often designated as the plain of Chae
roneia. In . Platanus, the name of one of the
portions of land mentioned in the award of Eu
bulus, we have the origin apparently of the modern
appellation of the river Platania.
While I was copying the inscription, which was
my first employment this morning, a funeral took
place. The corpse was carried into the church, the
service read over with wonderful haste, and at a
certain point a howling was set up by three women,
1 "Eari Be rrjg AavXlag X^Pa 7rov 0VK dipavrj ra kg TroXEpov,
KaXovpkvr) Tpiovlg' kvravda ol Be <5>iZkov Eivai tov 'Opvv-
fjpwov ijpo) 'ApxvyETOV TTETrolr)- riiiivog tov —t<rv<pov tbaaiv. —
rac tov Be rjpw tovtov BavBiir- Pausan. Phocic. c. 4.

xi. j phocis. \ ^7
relations of the deceased, after w\
was put into the ground, and s^
wheaten bread, boiled maize, and
tributed to the company, who assem\
service in great numbers, and seatei
round the wall ofthe church-yard.
Pausanias remarks of Daulis, that the inhabit
ants were few in number, but~the~~tallest and
stoutest of all the Phocians. The name of the
place he supposed to be derived from SaiiXoe,
because the position had formerly been a forest1.
The only building described by him is a temple of
Minerva, containing an ancient statue, and another
still more ancient made of wood, said to have
been dedicated by Procne, for Daulis was supposed
to have been the scene of t.h^ well-known story of^
Tereus, Procne, and Philomele. 
Immediatelyabove Dhavlia, on the site of Mount
Liakura, stands the monastery of Aghia Arsali, and
below it a metokhi, where the monks retire when
the snow covers their upper habitation. About five
miles to the south-west of Dhavlia is the entrance
of the Zimeno Derveni, or opening between the
mountains Cirphis and Parnassus, which leads to
Delphi. It is the ayiarr] oSoc, or rpiirXr) ke\eu0oc,
the cleft or triple way celebrated among the
ancients for being the place where Laius fell by
the hands of his son GEdipus. I searched in vain
there, in my former journey, for any traces of the
tomb of Laius and his servant, which Pausanias
describes as covered with a heap of stones. The
1 Pausan. Phocic. c. 4.

-\a)6 phocis. [chap.
road, as he justly observes, becomes more steep and
rugged, from that point towards Delphi, and diffi
cult even to a man on foot. Between Daulis and
the Schiste, but at what distance from either Pau
sanias does not specify, stood the Phocicum, or
place of meeting of the deputies of the cities of
Phocis ; it was a large building divided within
lengthwise by columns, between which and the
wall there were seats for the deputies. At one end,
in an open space, was a Jupiter seated on his throne,
Minerva and Juno standing on either side of him1.
The ascent from Daulis to the summit of Parnassus
was less rugged than that from Delphi, but
longer2. This route probably led by the modern
convent of Aghia Arsali. The road from Daulis
to Ambryssus, now Dhistomo, follows up the vale
of the Platania in nearly a straight course, having
Mount Cirphis on the right hand, and on the other
a part of the Helicon, which is so distinct from Pa-
leovuni, or the proper Helicon, that it had un
doubtedly some specific name among the ancients,
though it has not been preserved by history. It is
itself subdivided into two summits, that to the east
called the mountain of Surbi, that to the west the
mountain of Zara, or Tzara, from villages of those
names. Having crossed the Platania in twenty-five
minutes from the foot of the hill of Daulis, we
leave, in fifteen minutes more, the village of Malta
on the. right side of the road, and then in eight
minutes arrive at 'Aio Vlasi. In the course of this
1 Pausan. Phocic. c. 5. 2 Ibid. c. 4.
13

xi. J phocis. 107
route the Stena of the Cephissus, or Boeoto- Phocic
Strait, opens from the foot of the hills of Khas-
nesi, and 'Aio Vlasi admits a view through the
Stena : the hill of Krevasara being then nearly
hid by the heights of Khasnesi, and that of the
Paleokastro, near Belissi, appearing to advance
half across the pass. In the course of our morning's
ride many opvia, (vultures,) were in sight, and a
great number of lapwings, which the Greeks call
KaXripavri. At 'Aio Vlasi the woman of the cottage
where I dine wears a low bonnet or hat, made at
Dhadhi, which is completely covered on the out
side with a coat of mail made of paras. Just over
the ears, instead of paras, the covering is made of
Spanish or Austrian dollars and Turkish pieces of
100 paras. The owner is of Dhadhi, and in reply
to my inquiries says, " this is the fashion of our
town ; here they have other fashions."
On this side of Mount CEta, it may be remarked,
Jhat itinerant salesmen, and even saleswomen are
to be met travelling singly, which is hardly ever
"to be seen beyond Thermopylae. During the
last two days we have met several persons from
Aspraspitia selling fresh sea-fish ; and at 'Aio
Vlasi have found a caravan of asses laden with
corn and kalambokki, and conctucted by an Agra-
" fiote woman! To be able to do this, or to wear
such caps as that just mentioned, without risk,
implies a greater degree of security than the
Christians enjoy to the northward of Mount CEta,
where the resistance of the mountaineers to Aly
Pasha, his continual attempts to reduce them, the
march of his Albanians through the country,

V

108 phocis. [chap.
the incursions of the kleftes, and the poverty,
idleness, and rapacity of the Turks, particularly
those of Larissa, lead to the unceasing oppres
sion ofthe Christians, and have made their con
dition more miserable than in this part of Greece,
where the protection enjoyed by the districts of
Livadhia and Athens, the one as a vakuf, the
other as a royal appanage, is not without some
beneficial effects upon the Christians ; the ad
ministrators taking care to send proper persons
to reside as Voivodas, and readily attending to
the complaints of the Greeks, so that the Turkish
governor finds it difficult to enrich himself by op
pression. Another cause is the smaller proportion
of Turks, the effect of whose bigotry, insolence,
idleness, profligacy, and greediness of gain, has
every where a tendency in proportion to their
numbers, to degrade the condition and character
of the rayah, and at length to drive him into the
districts where the Turks are not so numerous,
and which are better protected by the Porte. As
to the circumstance of a large proportion of the
lands to the southward of CEta being held by
Greeks, I fear it makes very little difference _ to
the working farmer, in his profits or his enjoy
ment ol the fruits of the earth ; his terms of cul
tivation are the same, whether with the agas of
'Egripo and Thebes, or with the archons of
Livadhia and Athens, all of whom take care that
he shall never be out of their debt, nor enablecTto
obtain from the soil more than~lT'STrbsIstence "of
the scantiest kind. ' ~"
In proceeding from 'Aio Vlasi to Kapurna, we

xi. J phocis. 109
leave, at eight minutes beyond 'Aio Vlasi, a vil
lage called Mera to the right of the road, in the
entrance of a valley leading into that which is
watered by the western branch of the river of
Livadhia, and along which leads the road from
Livadhia to the Zimeno Pass, branching to the
left to Dhistomo ; these were anciently the routes
from Lebadeia to Delphi and Ambryssus. Ka.-
purna stands at the foot of the same ridge as 'Aio
Vlasi, in a hollow between a steep summit and a
long even height, which advances from the ridge
into the valley in a north-easterly direction, and
hides Kapurna from all the great plain towards
the Lake Cephissis. A projection of the heights
on the other side towards the vale of Mera con
ceals it in like manner from the upper part of the
plain of Daulis, but the hill of Kervasara is seen
from Kapurna, through the Stena. of the Cephissus.
The rocky heights which overhang the villages
of 'Aio Vlasi and Kapurna have preserved con
siderable ruins of Panopeus and Chaeroneia. Pau
sanias says, that Panopeus l was distant 20 stades
from Chaeroneia, and 7 from Daulis : but the
latter number is obviously erroneous. I was 48
minutes in walking my horse from the foot of the
hill of Daulis to 'Aio Vlasi, and 35 from thence to
Kapurna. The latter space of time corresponds to
lerably well to the 20 stades of Pausanias, accord
ing to the average rate of 30 stades to the hour ; it
1 Pausan. Phocic. c. 4. Ac- 76. 89.) names the district
cording to Strabo (p.' 423.) it Phanotis ; but Panopeus is the
was called Phanoteus in his form employed by Homer, and
time, and Thucydides (1. 4, c. by Pausanias.

110 phocis. [chap.
is probable, therefore, that the number of stades be
tween Daulis and Panopeus was 27 instead of 7, and
that the word tiKoai has been lost by the copiers of
Pausanias. The 7 stades which he assigns to the
circumference of the walls of Panopeus is exactly
confirmed by the present remains.
Panopeus partook of the ruin of the other cities
of Phocis at the end of the Phocian war, but like
them also was re-established by the Athenians and
Thebans a little before the battle of Chaeroneia \
In the time of Pausanias, although it had neither
agora, nor theatre, nor gymnasium, nor fountain 2,
nor public building for the use of the magistrates3,
and consisted only of huts on the side of a torrent,
it was still called a city, and sent deputies to the
Phocic council. The only antiquities besides its
walls were the tumulus of Tityus on the side of
the torrent 4, and a building of crude bricks, con
taining a statue of Pentelic marble, but whether
intended for iEsculapius or for Prometheus, Pau
sanias could not ascertain. Panopeus having been
placed between two cities, which were themselves
not 5 miles asunder, seems to have derived its
importance from being the frontier fortress of
Phocis, towards Bceotia. We find, accordingly,
considerable remains of the ancient walls ; their
general form is a triangle, of which the southern
side follows a course parallel to the torrent of
Mera, and the two others inclose the northern face

vtia.

1 Pausan. Phocic. c. 3. 3 apxt
2 vBu>p KarEpxbpEvov kg Kpi)- ' km rrj xaPa^
vtjv. — Ibid. c. 4.

XI. J phocis. Ill
of the hill, forming an angle, somewhat greater
than a right angle, at the south-west. They in
cluded a small portion of the plain at the north
western end of the site. Here the walls are built
in lines nearly straight, and were flanked with
towers at the usual intervals. On the height the
sides are broken into re-entering and salient an
gles, in the manner best suited to defend the
ascent of the rocks, with towers at the most
prominent angles, projecting 20 feet from the
walls, and in some places still 30 feet high.
The masonry is of the third or intermediate order,
between the polygonal, in which there were no
regular courses, and that in which the courses
were equal and horizontal. Each of the two sum
mits into which the hill is divided had its interior
inclosure. That to the south-west retains three
gates : one leading to the lower town, and two
opening to the country. In all the three, the
entrance is oblique to the wall, as in the annexed
plan of one of the latter gates.

The torrent of Mera is evidently the ¦%"Pa$Pa
which Pausanias mentions, and was probably the
Boeoto Phocic boundary. Some large masses of
stone on this side, which appear to have fallen from
the hill, may answer to those sandy coloured rocks
from which Prometheus made the human race, but
1 can neither perceive the smell ot human flesh in

112 BOEOTIA. [CHAP.
them, which Pausanias recognised, nor any remains
of the tumulus of Tityus, although, according to
the same traveller, it was not less than a stade in
circumference. At Kapurna, scarcely any vestiges of the town
wall of Chaeroneia are traceable in the plain, but
in the Acropolis, which incloses an extremely
rugged height, there is a large piece of wall, of
masonry of the third order, in excellent preserva
tion, and well calculated to give an idea of the
beautiful and imposing effect of this fine mode of
building when complete. The hill corresponds
exactly to the " precipitous height above the city,
called Petrachus \" though Pausanias, who thus
describes Petrachus, has not mentioned it as the
Acropolis of Chaeroneia, which the existing forti
fications prove the hill in question to have been.
The other remains at Kapurna are a theatre, of
which all the middle part was excavated in the
rock of Mount Petrachus, and the ends consisted of
a mass of earth faced with masonry, of which the
ruins still remain. Several rows of the lower
seats are evidently buried below the earth, ac
cumulated at the foot of the height ; but there
are two diazomata, or prascinctions, above ground,
and consequently three divisions of seats. In
the lowest division three or four seats only are
now visible above the surface ; the middle contains
twelve rows, and the upper four, above which
there is a high perpendicular excavation in the

1 "Eoti Be vTTEp ti)v ttoXiv Kprjpvvg ILs7-pa%oc KiiXovpei'og,
Pausan. Bceot. c. 41,

XI. J BO30TIA. 113
rock, and the remains of two or three rows of seats
above it.
On the face of the same rock is inscribed, in
letters of the best times, with the omicron smaller
than the other letters, the words 'AttoAAwvoc $a<p-
va<j>op'iw, 'ApTajuiSoc ffowSi'vae ! . In some inscriptions
reported by Meletius as existing at Chaeroneia in
his time2, we find the same Bceotic dialect em
ployed, and the same Diana mentioned, but with
the more common epithet of Eilethuia, or in the
Bceotic dialect, EiAuOlri. The worship of the same
deity, but without the epithet is recorded on
another monument, erected in honour of one of
her priestesses by the council and people of the
Chaeronenses 3.
A stone in the wall of a church near a fountain
below the theatre, is inscribed with a dedication to
the Emperor Macrinus, by the council and people
of the Chaeronenses. It is difficult to decipher the
second name of the emperor, but it certainly is not
Opilius, as usually written in Latin authors. To
me it appears to be 0N<1>AAI02, i. e. Omphalius4.
1 V. Inscription, No. 24.  — Melet. "Vol. ii.
2 (1) Eivopa, 'ApfiXvrog, p. 335. 8vo. Ven.
KpiroXda, Hovdlag, 'AprapiBi 3 'H fiovXr) Kal o Bijpog Xai-
TLlXEidiy' po)vk(ov tt)v hpEiav 'Aprkfj-iBog
(2) KpiruXaog, 'Apiarliav, Xapoirelvav, Tifiepiov KXavBiov
KdXXig, KaXXnriBag, 'AprdpiBi AiBvpov dvyaT£pa,dpETfjgevEKEv
El\£t0(j)- Kal rrjg irspl Tr)vdkav Qp-qaKEiag.
(3) 'EvirlBiovog .... 4 . . . . Kal QEiora (tov)
apxovrog, firivbg QriXovQlovwev- avroicpaVo(pa) M.dpKov 'Ov(j>d-
TEKaiBeKaTrj, Ila'Wae Kpfawvog Xiov2iE(lr)pbvM.aKpeivdvr) /3ovXr)
avaridrioiv rrjv IBlav dEpdwai- Kal b Bijpog Xaipiovkiov. — V.
vav KaXXw Updv rrj 'AprkpiBi. Inscription, No. 25.
VOL. II. I

1 14 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
Another inscription on a stone at the same foun
tain was engraved in honour of Demetrius Auto-
bulus, a Platonic philosopher, by his maternal
grandson Flavius Autobulus1. An ancient church
of the Panaghia, in the village, preserves many
remains of ancient art, particularly an inscribed
marble, upon which are several records of the
dedication of certain slaves, both male and female,
to Sarapis, by which process they obtained their
liberty, or at least became IspoSovXoi, or slaves only
to the god. In some instances the manumission
was immediate, but more frequently after the life
of the owners, and with a reserve of the children
born of them in the meantime. The names of the
Boeotian months Homolius, Alalcomeneius, Thelu-
thius, Prostaterius, and Bucatius, occur in these
documents 2. It appears from the inscriptions re-
The following is a Latin in- The Autobuli appear from
scription in honour of the same the following inscription which
emperor, the shortness of whose Meletius found at the same
reign has rendered such monu- fountain, to have been descend-
ments rare : — Herculi victori. ants of the celebrated Plu-
Pro Salute Imp. Caes. M. Opelii tarch.
Aureli Severi Macrini Aug. L. 'Zk&ov KXaiBwv Avt6(3ov-
Jubentius L. F. Ter. Severus Xov, bpi>wpov t<5 warpl, ektov
Aug. N. dispensator. — Gruter. airo TiXovrapxcv, apeTi)v naaav
p. 50. kv /3('w Kal Xoyoig kiriBei^dpEvov
As Macrinus reigned only kv rij  /3', r/ Trpbg pr]Tpog
one year, A.D. 217, 218, we pdpprj Ka\\i/c\£ia .... Kal ol
have the exact date of the in- yovelg ko.1 ai aBeX(j>al 
scription of Chaeroneia. ¦ — Melet. vol. ii. p. 334.
1 Aapdrpiov AiiTofiovXov 2 See the text of several of
(hiXoiro^ov UXarioviKov $\a/3to£ these inscriptions at the end of
Avt6(1ovXoq tov wpbg prtrpbg this volume.
ircnnrov. — V. Inscript. No. 26.

XI. J BOEOTIA. 115
ported by Meletius, that slaves, both male and
female, were dedicated in the same manner to
Diana, 'AprdpiSi E'lkuOiy. The other remains of
antiquity in the church of the Panaghia are an
antique chair of marble, called by the learned
6 (ppovog tov nAovrtijO^ov l (Plutarch's chair), — two
columns of dark grey granite, two Ionic capitals,
and many ancient fragments in the walls. A large
pedestal without any inscription forms the altar or
holy table 2.
Pausanias has neither noticed the theatre of
Chaeroneia, nor the temples of Diana and Sarapis,
which the inscriptions prove to have existed here,
and which stood, perhaps, upon the very sites of
the churches where the inscriptions are found.
According to him, the principal object of venera
tion at that time was the sceptre, or, as they called
it, the spear3 of Jupiter, made by Vulcan, and the
only one of the reputed works of Vulcan which
Pausanias considered genuine. It was kept in the
house of a priest annually appointed, and was said
to have been found between Chaeroneia and Pano
peus, whither it had been brought by Electra,
daughter of Agamemnon, to whom it devolved
through Hermes and Pelops. Daily sacrifices
were made to the sceptre, and a table stood con
stantly before it, covered with meat and cakes,
which accords so exactly with some of the repre
sentations on the temples of Egypt, that one cannot
2 ippovog for dpovog, like 3 ciyta rpdirE^a.
$/y/3a for Qrjflai. Pindar, a * Bopv. — Pausan, Bceot. c.
Boeotian, in like manner used 40.
(f>rjp for drip.
i 2

116 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
but suspect that the worship was derived from
thence, together with that of Sarapis, and that the
local mythus was a posterior invention.
On the summit of Mount Petrachus stood a
small statue of Jupiter, and in some part of the
territory1 were two trophies erected by Sylla and
the Romans for their victory over Taxiles. Of the
more celebrated victory of Philip, son of Amyntas,
on the same scene of action, there was not any
such monument, because the erecting of trophies
was contrary to the Macedonian custom. But
there was a polyandrium of the Thebans who were
slain in that battle, surmounted by a lion, not far
from Chaeroneia, on the road to Lebadeia, and it
would seem from Strabo, that here stood also mo
numents, erected at the public expense, in honour
of all who had fallen on the same occasion2. As
these memorials were probably on the field of the
first battle of Chaeroneia, the situation of which
no ancient author has exactly described, we may
presume that a large tumulus, which rises conspi
cuously from the plain near the right bank of the
Cephissus, is not a monument of the victory of
Philip, but the place of sepulture of those who fell
in the contest of the Romans with the Mithradatic
army, for that tumulus, instead of being in the road
from Chaeroneia to Lebadeia, is about midway to
Orchomenus, and it seems evident from Plutarch,
that the Roman battle occurred in the middle of
the plain.
In the time of Pausanias, Chaeroneia was noted
1 X^P"-
2 raipr) TTEtrovrwv kv rfj pd^p Brjpoina. — Strabo, p. 414.

XI. J BC30TIA. 117
for the manufacture of oils extracted from odori
ferous flowers.
Quitting Kapurna at seven in the evening for
Livadhia, we follow the foot of the hills for a
quarter of an hour, then ascend them, and at the
summit enter upon a plain of a rich soil, now very
muddy, which we cross in a quarter of an hour by
a paved road, then descend and enter the plain of
Livadhia, fifty-five minutes from Kapurna. Ten
minutes farther cross a stream flowing to the left,
the same already mentioned as the western branch
of the river of Livadhia, then passing through
fields of rice and kalambokki, by a muddy road
and bad pavement, at the end of one hour and
twenty minutes from Kapurna, enter Livadhia.

CHAPTER XII.

BCEOTIA.
Livadhia, Mideia, Lebadeia, river Hercyna, Grove of Trophonius
—Inscriptions of Livadhia — Coroneia — Alalcomenae — Petra —
Mountains Libethrium, Laphystium Tilphossium — Temple of
Minerva Itonia — Rivers Curalius, Phalarus, Isomantus —
Krupi — Skripu, Orchomenus, Treasury of Minyas, Monastery
of Skripu, Temple of the G races, Inscriptions — Rivers Cephis
sus, Melas — Lake Cephissis — Tegyra.
Dec. 2. — The town of Livadhia has an imposing
appearance from the northward, and forms a scene
no less singular than beautiful. Its houses are
surrounded for the most part with gardens, and
thus occupy a large space of ground on some steep
acclivities at the foot of a precipitous height which
is crowned with a ruined castle, said to have been
built by the Catalans. This height is an abrupt
northerly termination of Mount Helicon, and is
separated eastward from similar hills by a torrent
issuing from the mountain between lofty precipices,
and falling with great rapidity over a rocky bed
as it passes through the middle of the town. It
is the ancient Hercyna. Above the Kastro, or
castle hill, it is generally dry, the principal
contribution of water being from some sources
at the southern extremity of the town, under
the eastern side of the Kastro. Derivations are

CHAP. XII. J B020TIA. 119
made from it to every part of the town, and into
the gardens which surround the houses. There
are springs also in many parts of the site ; so that
by the effect of this abundance of water, combined
with the shelter of the overhanging mountains, the
air in the summer, in the upper part of the town,
during an hour or two in the morning and evening,
has a most agreeable coolness, as I experienced
when I was last at Livadhia : the same mountains,
however, by excluding the regular breezes, cause
the general temperature to be excessively hot, and
in winter create humidity, by depriving the town
of the sun's rays, which at present no longer
fall even upon the lowest quarter of the town after
two o'clock. From these causes the climate is not
considered either agreeable or healthy, and it is
said that in summer, in consequence of the want
of ventilation, the noxious exhalations of the irri
gated fields of cotton and rice, although near two
miles distant from the upper quarter of the town,
are felt in every part of it. Velitza, having a similar
position and aspect, is affected in the same manner
by the adjacent mountain ; and there the village was
in shade even before one o'clock. In fact, all the
ancient cities of Doris, Phocis, and Bceotia, which
occupied the strong and otherwise advantageous
situations under the northern sides of Parnassus and
Helicon, experienced more or less the same inconve
nience, and had a similar climate in winter, as Pau
sanias has remarked in particular respecting Lilaea1.
1 'ixei $£ r] AlXaia Kal irpbg tov Be ^Etyiwa PV bpoiwg r\iriov
rag tov Erovg i&pag pETunrwpov ylvEadai, kioXvei to bpog o Ilap-
kcu kv dkpEi Kal r)pog £7ririj^£iw£' raaobg. — Pausan. Phocic, c. 33.
13

120 BOZOTIA. [CHAP.
Livadhia has a greater air of opulence than any
place in Northern Greece, not even excepting
Ioannina. This is partly real in consequence of the
small number of Turks who generally are not only
poor themselves but the cause of poverty in others,
and is partly the effect of the construction of the
larger Greek houses, which having spacious cham
bers and galleries in the Turkish manner, are
shown to advantage on the steep declivity of the
hill. It may be observed, however, that this style
of building, the effect of Greek vanity always
ready to ape Turkish grandeur, although agreeable
in summer is in general little suited to a place
where the winter is both Ions; and severe. There
are about 1500 houses in the town, of which 130
only are Turkish. The most conspicuous object
is a tower with a clock in it. The district contains
seventy villages, of which the largest are Dhadhi
and Arakhova. Xerokhori, Fyla, and several
others in Euhoea, are inscribed in the vilayeti, as
well as Kalamo and some others in Attica.
The Homeric Mideia was situated, according to
Pausanias, on a height *, from whence the inhabit
ants under the conduct of Lebadus, an Athenian
removed to the lower ground 2, and there built the
town to which they gave the name of Lebadeia.
It would seem, therefore, that Mideia stood on the
site of the Kastro, and of the western division of
the modern town, having its eastern side defended
by the Hercyna, and that Lebadeia occupied the

1 fKE'lTO E7T( pETEWpoV.  PaU- 2 E£ TO X^dpaXoV.
san. Bceot. c. 39.

XII. J B030TIA. 121
lowest part of the present town. It is difficult to
believe, however, that the Kastro was not at all
times a part of the ancient city, being so essential
to its safety. The only remains of antiquity are
some Hellenic squared stones in the walls of the
ruined castle, with a few inscriptions and archi
tectural fragments dispersed in the town. This
strong and well-watered position having always
been occupied by a considerable population, the
ancient materials have so long been applied to re
pairs that nothing is now left in its original posi
tion. Lebadeia was chiefly celebrated for the oracle of
Trophonius, son of Erginus, king of Orchomenus,
who, at a time when the Greeks were chiefly in
debted to Phoenicia for artists ], obtained with the
aid of his brother Agamedes, such celebrity as a
constructor of temples, treasuries, palaces, and
other works2, that by a consequence natural in a
superstitious age of the admiration in which his
1 That Phoenicia was looked graved gems in the Morea,
up to by the Greeks as a school of a similar style of art. The
of art before the Trojan war, masonry of some Phoenician
may be inferred from some pas- ruins in the island of Gozo,
sages in Homer. The pilas- which have only recently been
ters which adorned the entrance excavated, greatly resembles
of the treasury of Atreus at that of the great entrance into
Mycenae, some fragments of Mycenae.
which are in the British Mu- ' roirovg <j>airlv, wg >ji£r/0»j-
seum, resemble the Persian aav, yevkadai Beivovg OeoTs te
style, which we may suppose Upd KaraaKEvdaaaQai Kal fla-
to have been allied to the trlXeia dvdpuinoig. — Pausan.
Phoenician. It is not uncom- Bceot. c. 37.
mon to find very ancient en-

122 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
talents were held, he was believed after his death
to predict futurity, and to have been the son not of
Erginus but of Apollo \ The extensive reputation
which his oracle had acquired at a remote period,
is proved by its having been consulted by Croesus
and Mardonius 2 ; and more than six centuries
afterwards, its administrators were still successful
in maintaining the popular delusion. Pausanias,
who himself consulted the oracle, has left us an
accurate description of the process, omitting only
what he saw or heard in the sacred adytum, which
it was not lawful to reveal 3. He describes the
grove of Trophonius as situated at a small distance
from Lebadeia, or as separated from Lebadeia by
the river Hercyna, for the defective text leaves his
meaning doubtful 4. The source of the river was
in a cavern which contained upright statues hold
ing sceptres with serpents entwined on them. It
was uncertain whether these were statues of iEscu-
lapius and Hygieia, or of Trophonius and Hercyna.
On the river's bank there was a temple of Her
cyna, containing the statue of a virgin bearing a
goose in her hand. It represented the nymph
Hercyna, from whom, when playing with Proser
pine, a goose escaped, flew into the cavern, and
concealed itself under a stone : Proserpine, having
1 This, adds Pausanias, I aV avrrjg (scil. rrjg ttoXewe) to
believe, as will every one who aXirog tov Tpoipurvlov, which
consults the oracle. can hardly be complete ; hence
2 Herodot. 1. 1, c. 46, 1. 8, it has been proposed to insert
c. 134. the words "JLpKvva b irorapbg
3 Pausan. Bceot. c. 39. after Ipoipwvlov.
4 The words are Bteipyet Be

XII. j BG30T1A. 123
drawn forth the goose and removed the stone,
water followed, and became the source of the
river Hercyna. Upon the bank of the river there
was also a monument of Arcesilaus.
The grove of Trophonius contained his temple,
in which was his statue by Praxiteles, resembling
a statue of iEsculapius, — a temple of Ceres,
surnamed Europe, who was the nurse of Tropho
nius, and a statue in the open air of Jupiter Hye-
tius (Pluvius). Above this place was the oracle 1,
and farther on in the mountain 2 the hunting-place
of Proserpine 3 ; also a large unfinished temple of
Jupiter the King, a temple of Apollo, and another
temple containing statues of Cronus, Juno and
Jupiter. He who had resolved to consult the
Oracle, first passed a certain number of days in a
building sacred to the good daemon and to good
fortune 4, where, among other expiations, he was
enjoined to abstain from ablution in hot water, and
to bathe in the Hercyna ; he sacrificed to the
deities worshipped in the grove, and a priest 5 de
clared from the entrails of the victims whether
Trophonius was favourable to the sacrificer. On
the night of consultation he again sacrificed a ram
in the trench 6 of Agamades, at the pillar 7 of the
same person, whom he invoked. At this trench
the ground was said to have opened and received
1 dvafiaai Be kiri to pavTEiov. 3 Koprjg dr/pa.
— "Eort Be to pavTEiov virkp to 4 Aalpovog 'Ayadov Kal Ti-
dXaog kiri tov opovg. X7^ 'AyaOrjg.
2 dva/idai Be kiri to pavTEiov jxavrig.
Kal avTodEv lovoiv kg to irpoaw 8 kg fiodpov.
tov opovg. 7 ariiXrr.

124 BOEOTIA. [CHAP.
Trophonius when he quitted the earth. The ap
pearance of the victim was here considered as of
more importance than at the former place. If they
were still found to be favourable, the consulter of
the Oracle was conducted to the Hercyna, where
he was washed and anointed by two young citizens
of Lebadeia called the Hermae. He was then led
to the two fountains of the Hercyna 1, which were
close to one another, and drank of them ; first of
the fountain of oblivion, to obtain forgetfulness of
preceding events ; and then of the fountain of
memory, to strengthen his remembrance of what
he was about to behold. He next addressed his
prayers to a wooden statue of Trophonius, made
by Daedalus, which none but those who consulted
the Oracle were allowed to see, after which, clothed
in a linen garment 2, girded with sashes 3, and
wearing sandals peculiar to the place 4, he was con
ducted to the Oracle 5. The first object which
presented itself was a circular barrier, equal in
size to a threshing-floor of very small dimensions 6,
it was formed by a basement of white marble about
two and a half feet high r, upon which stood spits 8
of brass connected together by bands 9 of the same
material. Within the circumference 10 was a hol
low n, not natural, but constructed artificially in the

1 tov vBarog.

' diroBkoviri Bvo 7riJx£'C'

2 X'rwva Xivovv.

8 6/3eXoi.

3 raiviaig.

9 £G>vai.

i kirixiopiag Kpr]ir~iSag.

10 irEpifioXov.

5 wpbg to pavTEiov.

11 x™^" yvs-

8 aXurv rr)v kXax'trTriv.

XII. J BGE0TIA. 125
most finished manner ', and in form resembling an
oven (or kiln) \ the diameter was about four peeks
(six feet), and the depth not more than eight
peeks (twelve feet). There was no constructed
descent, but a light narrow ladder was brought
for the use of him who descended, and who
found at the bottom a small opening between
the bottom and the masonry3 two spans (a foot
and a half) wide, and of which the height ap
peared to be one span (nine inches) 4. Lying
on his back, and holding honey-cakes in his
hands, he introduced his legs into the hole, and
then his knees, when on a sudden the rest of
his body was carried forward with rapidity, as if
involved in the current of a rapid and mighty river.
The future was then revealed to him ; not to all
persons in the same manner, but to some by the
sight, and to others by the hearing. He returned
by the same opening by which he entered, and
again with the legs foremost. The priests then
conducted him to the throne of memory, which
was not far from the Adytum, where they ques
tioned him as to what he had seen, and then de
livered him to his friends, who led him back to the
sanctuary of Agathodaemon . At first he was so
terrified, that he appeared to have no recollection
either of himself or others, but at length recovered
his mind and the power of laughing, and was bound
to inscribe on a tablet5 what he had seen or heard.
1 oxjk avrbparov, dXXd ovv 3 6m) pEra^v tov te kBdipovg
T^XVV Kai a-ppoviq? Tpbg to aKpi- Kal tov oiKoBopfjpaTog.
(SloTaTov igKoBopripevov. airiQapCiv to Evpog Bvo, to Be
2 Kpifidvy. ii\pog eifiaifETo Eivai airidaprjg.
5 EC TtivaKi.

126 B030TIA. [CHAP.
Such is the account of Pausanias from his own
experience. Philostratus, the only other author
who has entered into particulars of the same kind,
has added little or nothing to Pausanias, and differs
from him only in describing as made of iron the
railing of the circular barrier, which Pausanias
states to have been brazen.
I have already remarked, that the river which
traverses Livadhia is the continuation of an occa
sional torrent from Mount Helicon, which is joined
by some copious sources at the southern extremity
of the town, on the eastern side of the Castle hill.
It is evident that these were the reputed springs of
the river Hercyna, adjoining to which was the
Grove of Trophonius. They issue on either side
of the torrent, those on the left bank from the rock,
through several small spouts, which are sometimes
dry in summer, as I witnessed in the month of July.
Those on the right bank of the torrent form the
main body of the river at all times, and flow perpe
tually from under the rocks in many large streams,
the subterraneous course of which is, apparently,
from near a cavern in the rocks on the right side
of the ravine, which is now almost choked up by
the rubbish of the town, of which that situation
happens to be a common place of deposit. The
great sources are called to. yXvipd vtpd, or the water
unfit for drinking, in contradistinction to the other
springs, which are named ra Kpid, or the cold waters ;
in fact, the former are of a higher temperature, and
not so agreeable to the taste. Immediately above
the Kria on the side of the Castle hill, is the cavern
which the learned of Livadhia point out as the
Cave of Trophonius. It is not very deep, does not

XII. J B030TIA. 127
reach down to the soil of the valley, nor has it any
appearance of an interior opening, though there are
some traces of artificial excavations in it, and of
niches and inscriptions near it \
Such being the present appearance of the sources
of the Hercyna and adjoining places, it becomes
impossible to apply the description of Pausanias
with any certainty, there being, instead of one
source in a cavern, two sources, and a cavern op
posite to each, and neither source having its origin
in its corresponding cavern. As to the latter dis
crepancy, nothing is more likely than that during
the ages which have elapsed since the sacred grove
and its buildings were first ruined, and their site left
to the effects of natural causes, the torrent, or even
the ordinary rains, should have obstructed the
caverns with alluvial soil, and should have caused
one or both the springs to emerge on the bank of
the torrent below the cavern, instead of issuing in
the cave itself. But admitting this supposition,
there still remains the question, which of the
caverns contained the reputed source of the Her
cyna? I think the eastern ; first, because the per
manent and larger sources of the river are on that
side; secondly, because that situation will suit
either of the two interpretations given to the words
of Pausanias descriptive of the position of the grove
relatively to that of the city, while the western
cavern is not well adapted to either ; thirdly,
because the wider and more sloping ground was
there better suited to contain the grove and its
buildings, which required a considerable space,
1 V. Inscription, No. 34.

128 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
than that on the western side, where the space
between the Kria nera. and the perpendicular rocks
of the Castle hill is not only narrow, but almost
entirely exposed to inundation from the torrent.
It seems more probable, therefore, that the sacred
inclosure and its various structures occupied the
ground around the Glyfa and the cavern on that
side. It is clear from the narrative of Pausanias,
that the paviuov, or place where the oracle was
enounced, was quite distinct from the cavern of
the sources, though it appears to have been situated
also at the foot of the hill, since he describes it as
kiri tov opovg. The description which he has given
of the well constructed of masonry, with an ele
vated border, surmounted by a railing of brass, is
perfectly intelligible ; but the o-n-r), or cavity, at the
bottom of the wall within, was so small, that unless
we suppose all that followed the introduction of the
legs of the consulter of the oracle into this aperture,
to have been the effect of his own imagination ', it
is necessary to conclude, that the priests had some
concealed mode of enlarging the opening, which is
the more probable, as a circumstance mentioned by
Pausanias favours the opinion, that there was not
only a cavern or subterraneous chamber, but a se
cond opening. He states, that a soldier of Demetrius
(Poliorcetes), who had entered the adytum without
performing the previous rites, and with the hope of
finding something there worth stealing, was de
prived of life in consequence of his impiety ; and
1 Plutarch introduces, in his nights and a day in the cavern
dialogue on the genius of So- of Trophonius, and as having
crates, a man who describes seen an abundance of strange
himself as having been two visions in that time.

XII. J BG30TIA. 129
his body was found cast out, not near the sacred
entrance1, but in another place. However this
may be, it is evident that nothing but an extensive
excavation can lead to the discovery of the adytum,
since the otttj, or aperture, wTas twelve feet below
the circular kojjttIc of white marble, and there has
probably been a considerable accumulation of soil
above that which was the surface in the time of
Pausanias. I am informed that the torrent,
although now dry, sometimes pours a potent
stream into the Hercyna; its origin is in an ele
vated plain, situated between the summit of Heli
con, nearest to Livadhia, and the heights of which
the Castle hill and opposite rocks form the termina
tion. This plain is cultivated in some parts by the
people of Surbi.
The three inscriptions which have been pub
lished by Spon and Wheler, are still in existence.
That which is in the mosque, formerly a church on
the hill near the castle, is in excellent preserva
tion. The stone forms the lintel ofthe door of the
minaret of the mosque. The two other inscriptions
are lying in the yard of another mosque, at the
Bazar, and seem to have suffered some erasure
since the time of the two travellers. A third in
scription in the same inclosure, not noticed by
them, but published by Pococke, with his usual
inaccuracy, still remains, but very much damaged.
Of these four ancient documents the first mentioned
is a dedication to Juno Basilis by a priest, at the
1 Kara tyropa to hpov.
VOL. II. K

130 BC30TIA. [CHAP.
termination of his quinquennial administration ;
during which his wife also had been priestess1.
The epithet Basilis corresponds to that of the
Jupiter Basileus, whose large unfinished temple
stood in the grove of Trophonius. And the word
¦n-EVTatTripiQ is illustrated by a fifth inscription, which
I found in a private house in the town. It is in
the Bceotic dialect, in characters beautifully formed,
and evidently of a much earlier period than the
dedication to Juno Basilis. It testifies that Neon,
the son of Ascon, after having held the office of
Agonothetes in the Basileia, dedicated a vase, for
anointing with oil, to Jupiter the king, and to the
city2. It can hardly be questioned, therefore, that
the quinquennium mentioned in the dedication to
Juno Basilis, related to the Basileia, which recurred,
like the Olympic festival and many others, at the
end of four complete years. The Basileia was pro
bably the same institution named at a later period
Trpphonia, which we find noticed by two Greek
authors3, as well as in an inscription of Megara,
1 "Hpa [iaaiXiBi Kal rfj ttoXei to! Ba<riXEt(io; 7-J7)
AEJjaBkiav. MkvavBpog Xpjj<rt- woXt.
pov, iEpr)TEvaag wEvraeTripiBa ek — V. Inscr. No. 33.
TwviBi<i>vavkdriKEV,l£priTEVov<Tr]g xPt,rr*iPla <^ f£®' ^v ^XP'0VTO
Tr)g ywaiKog avrov Hapr)ariag ol lepElg ToiraXawv.
rrjg 'OvaaipfipoTOv. — V. Inscr. Suid. in Xplvpa.
No. 29. To anoint with oil was one
2 NeW Fd<TKw(vog) of the ceremonies of the grove
dyiovodETEt^aag) of Trophonius : kXaiio xpl°v(TL
rd Bao-tXEia Swo7raT^£c,&c. — Pausan. Boeot.
to EXnoxpioirripiov, or iov) c. 39.
dvideiKe roi (Ad) 3 J. Poll. 1. 1, c. 1, §37.

XII. J BOEOTIA. 131
published by Spon and Wheler ; for it appears
that the oracular predictions were ascribed to
Jupiter, and that the deity worshipped here was
often called Jupiter Trophonius1. The great un
finished temple of Jupiter mentioned by Pausanias
was probably commenced not long after the battle
of Leuctra, for we are informed by Diodorus that
Epaminondas, with a view to encourage the Boeo
tians, when preparing for the battle, procured a
person to pretend that, having consulted the oracle
of Trophonius, he was ordered to communicate to
the army, that when they had obtained the victory,
they were to institute a periodical festival at Leba
deia in honour of Jupiter the king2. The Basileia
was established accordingly, and was accompanied
by a stephanites agon or contest, in which the
victor was rewarded with a crown 3.
The three inscriptions at the mosque in the

Schol. Pind. 01. 7, v. 154. the rites of Jupiter the king,
Larcher, Hist. d'Herodote, rw Ait r« BatriXEt Kavrjipope'iv .
1. 8, note 195, cites Philemon ' Liv. 1. 45, c. 28. Strabo,
in the Lexicon of Apollonius, p. 414.
to show that the games were 2 Another of the devices of
also called 'Epwraa (laaiXEia : the Thehan commander was to
the name Eroteia appears to cause the arms, which were
have had its origin in a tra- suspended in the temple of
gical love story told by Plu- Hercules at Thebes, to be sud-
tarch (in narrat. Amator.), denly removed, which the priests
of one Straton of Orchomenus, interpreted to mean that Her-
who became enamoured of Ari- cules was about to make use of
stocleia of Haliartus, as he saw his arms to assist the Boeo-
her bathing in the fountain tians.
Hercyna, previously to her 3 Diodor. 1. 15, c. 53.
carrying the sacred basket in
K 2

132 BO30TIA. [CHAP.
Bazar are all in the Bceotic dialect. The first is a
conscription of the young men of twenty years of
age1, in the year when Charopinus was archon of
the Boeotians, and  magistrate of Lebadeia.
The names I did not copy, because many of the
letters are doubtful, and accuracy is the more ne
cessary in consequence of the singularity of the
dialect. The second inscription at the mosque is
more complete, and contains a dedication to Tro
phonius (here written Trephonius), by the horse
men of Lebadeia, for a victory in the Pambceotian
festival". These two inscriptions were published
by Spon and Wheler. The third, of which there
is a copy in the Inscriptiones Antiquae of Pococke,
has the remains of the words «5o£e t^ 7roAi AEj3a-
Buriwv in the first line, and seems to have contained
a catalogue of dedications or deposits in the temple
of Trophonius 3.
From Dec. 3 to Dec. 8. — In the course of these
days I made several excursions from Livadhia,
particularly one in search of Coroneia and Alalco-
menae, in company with Mr. Gell, whom I found
at Livadhia. The former of these ancient places
is supposed- by the Greeks to have stood at Gra-
1 The letters as I copied liriratrir] Tlapfioi&iTia, 'nrirapxi-
them were IKATirETIES, but ovrog AE&iririo SawicparEiw,
the middle letter was doubtless FiXapxiovTwv Mvtiovoq Opa-
not a y, but a digamma ; and awiio, 'TLiriTipa) -avKparEiw. — ¦
the word FucariFtriEc, the Boeo- V. Inscr. No. 31.
tic form of tiKouikrEig — men The Pambceotia were cele-
of twenty years of age. — V. brated periodically at the tem-
Inscr. No. 30. pie of Minerva Itonia, near
Tol liriroTri AefiaBEir'/iov Coroneia. — Strabo, p. 411.
dtidtav Tpe(f>u)vl<i>, r'tKCKrav-eg 3 V. Inscr. No. 32.

XII. J B030TIA. 133
nitza, on the mountain to the eastward of Livadhia,
because the Bishop of Coroneia resides there. But
that situation does not agree with the ancient
authorities. Following the road from Livadhia to
Thebes, along the foot of the Granitza mountain,
we arrive in forty-seven minutes at a kalyvia of
Granitza, on the foot of the mountain : here stands
a single Hellenic tower, about half of which re
mains. On the opposite side ofthe plain are seen
the walls of Orchomenus, inclosing the extremity
of the mountain above Skripu. We then follow
the foot of the mountain for seven minutes, pass
some large perennial springs, and in forty- seven
minutes more, opening upon a valley which extends
several miles in a southerly direction towards Heli
con, arrive at a fountain where are two or three
sepulchral inscriptions, with nothing but the name
in the nominative and xa'f£- This was a common
kind of epitaph in Bceotia. Another, often em
ployed both here and in Phocis, was the name in
the dative preceded by the preposition EIII. In
neither mode, the father's name occurs. The first
is precisely the Sicyonian fashion, as described by
Pausanias. The Athenians invariably inscribed
the name both of the man's father and of his demus.
We have now directly before us a bicipitous height,
standing at the entrance of the valley, watered on
either side by a rivulet, stretching southward to
wards Helicon, in a direction parallel to the adja
cent mountains, and thus dividing the valley into
two branches ; this height is undoubtedly the posi
tion of Coroneia. Both the streams rise in Heli
con; the eastern flows from Mount Zagara ; the

134 B030TIA. [CHAP.
western, which is considerably the larger, is com
posed of branches from Steveniko and Mount Paleo-
vuni, and from St. George and the mountain of
Granitza1. This river is crossed by a bridge on the
direct road from Livadhia to Thebes. In five minutes
from the fountain we ford it, and in eighteen more
arrive at the summit of the Acropolis of Coroneia,
which seems to have been of a circular form and
large extent. There remain a fine piece of poly
gonal wall on the eastern, another on the southern
side ofthe Acropolis, some large masses of Roman
tile-work on the very summit, and a piece of the
town wall at the bottom of the hill, on the south
eastern side. Fragments of ancient pottery are
observable in the fields on every side, .but more
particularly toward the south-east, where the town
seems chiefly to have been situated, and where a
great part of it must have been hid from the view
of Orchomenus and the plain. There are several
sources of water on the same side of the hill, many
pieces of ancient squared stones in two ruined
churches, and at a third church, just below a
ruined tower of lower Greek or Frank construction,
two inscriptions, one only of which is in a copy-
1 I learn from Mr. Finlay, vbv, i) (lovXr) Kal 6 Bijpog, kiri-
who in the spring of 1829 psXovvTog II. AlXiov Aioivvpov.
crossed from Khosia by Kukora 2. 'E71-1 'Aplara 'Aplaroivog,
and Steveniko to St. George, ' ApiarovEiKa Xe (35) XPI17"
that the chief sources of this X°"P£- 3. 'Apitrruv, 'ApxEXaa,
river are at a chapel between 'ApiarovEiKa. 4. "linrwv —
Steveniko and St. George, 5. ftoiaiag. No. 4. is in charac-
where are many remains of ters of the best times. No. 5.
antiquity, and the following in very ancient ; the <p is thus,
inscriptions: — 1. Qeov 'A^pia- A ; the S thus, <>.

XII. J BCEOTIA. 135
able state of preservation. It is in honor of one
Paramonus, who had held the office of strategus ;
like many similar inscriptions, it does not contain
the name ofthe city1. Here also is a sculpture in
low relief, almost buried in the ground, together
with some fragments of sepulchral and other
wrought stones. At a Turkish fountain close by
are two or three- other mnemata inscribed only
with names.
Having crossed the stream on the eastern side
of the hill of Coroneia, which, after following the
foot of the heights for a short distance, crosses the
plain, and joins the marshes below A. Dhimitri, we
proceed eastward along the foot of the mountain,
which here ends in a little low cliff and projecting
point under the village of Koriani, or Goriani 2.
This point, as well as the slope of the hill has a
fertile soil, and is now ploughed. Continuing
along the extremity, of the heights, we pass
under the village of Sulinari, from whence flow
two or three rivulets ; beyond the last, on a rocky
end of the slope, are some polygonal foundations,
apparently those of a single building, such as a
temple. They are remains perhaps of the peribolus
of the temple of Minerva Alalcomeneis, already
celebrated in the time of Homer 3 ; for the situa
tion corresponds perfectly to that of Alalcomenae,
1 'H flovXr) Kal b Bijpog LTa- voiag rrjg Eig rriv iroXiv. — V.
pdpovov A  arparriyri- Inscr. No. 28.
aa(vra) apETrjg eVekev Kal ev- 2 Kuipiavii, TKwpiavr'i.
3 Aoial piv MevEXdy dp-qyovkg Eiai QEaSiv
"Hp»j t' 'Apytuj koi 'AXaXKopEvrfig 'Adrivrj. II. A. v. 7.

136 B030TIA. [CHAP.
as indicated by Strabo and Pausanias1. The
neighbouring stream therefore is the Triton, upon
the banks of which, near the lake, stood the towns
Athenae and Eleusis, which were destroyed by an
inundation 3. About midway between the Triton
and the projecting precipitous hill called Petra,
are some squared stones and fragments of ancient
pottery at a ruined church. The road from Suli-
nari to Rastamyti 2 crosses a connecting ridge,
which unites the Petra with the other mountains.
Instead of following this road as far as the latter
village, we turn to the left on the crest of the ridge,
and proceed to the extreme summit of the Petra,
where we find some remains of a small ancient
tower, or fortress, having a wall of polygonal
masonry, together with the foundations of a trian
gular castle Of later date.
This height commands an extensive and interest
ing view of all the western division of Bceotia,
comprehending its vast plain, with the surround
ing heights from the neighbourhood of Thebes to
Parnassus. Assisted by the recollections of my
former journey, I easily recognize all the positions
which Strabo and Pausanias have described around
the Cephissian lake. The inner, or north-eastern
bay of the lake lies before us, as far down as the
katavothra, together with Topolia and the ad
jacent islands, about half-way between which and
the mountain of the Sphinx, now called Faga,
is a remarkable aperture in the hills on the borders
1 Strabo, p. 401, 411, 413. 2 Strabo, p.407. Pausan. ib.
Pausan. Boeot. c. 33. 3 'PaarapiiTin,

XII.] BCEOTIA. 137
of the lake, near which stands the village of Kar-
dhitza, probably on the site of Acraephium. It is
easy to distinguish the several summits in the
mountainous region between the Euripus and the
lake Copais, to which the ancients gave the names
of Ptoum, Messapium, and Hypatus. Parnes rises
behind the position of Thebes.
The marshy region around the lake leaves a
broad plain opposite to Coroneia, but at Petra
advances so far as to touch this point of the moun
tains. Near the position of Haliartus, which stood
on a low but conspicuous eminence, close to the
foot of the hills below Mazi, the marsh again
approaches very near the hills, and beyond it is
seen the plain of Haliartus, extending from Mount
Faga. to the lower acclivities of Helicon, and ter
minating eastward in the ridge of Onchestus, which
connects those two mountains. Petra is very rocky
on the northern side, and the descent is only prac
ticable on foot. From the extreme point of the
hill issue the copious sources which cause the
marshes of the lake Cephissis to encroach so far
upon this part of the plain, as to leave only room
at the sources for the main route from Livadhia to
Thebes, and thus to make the Petra a pass of
some strength. The consequence is, that the road
from Livadhia to Thebes is not unfrequently inter
rupted by robbers who establish themselves on the
Petra. Some foundations of a Hellenic wall which
are observable stretching into the plain, belonged
probably to a work for the defence of the pass.
Returning to Livadhia, we cross, in 37 minutes
from Petra, the bridge over the river which flows

138 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
on the north-western side of the hill of Coroneia.
The rocky extremity under Sulinari, where are the
ancient vestiges, is somewhat less than half way
between Petra and the bridge. From the bridge
there is an interval of 30 minutes to Kalamaki,
where are several mills on the last slope of the
mountain, turned by the copious springs which I
passed in the morning by an upper road. Rakhi,
a Kalyvia of Granitza, is half a mile to the right
of Kalamaki, and beyond it, Karya, near the bor
ders of the marsh.
A short examination of the description which
Pausanias has given of the places, comprehended
in this day's excursion, will, I think, suffice to
justify the ancient names which I have already
assigned, as well as to identify the river Pha-
larus and the mountains Libethrium, Laphystium,
and Tilphusium '. He states, that Mount Tilphu-
sium and the fountain Tilphusa were about fifty
stades distant from Haliartus. Here it was said,
that Teiresias, proceeding towards Delphi from
Thebes, died on drinking the water. His tomb was
at the fountain 2. Alalcomenae was a small town 3,
situated on the extreme declivity of a mountain not
very high. In the plain below it 4 stood the temple
of Minerva Alalcomeneis, which, having been de
prived of its ancient statue of ivory by Sylla, was
in consequence neglected ; its ruin had been acce
lerated by an ivy tree, which had displaced the

1 Pausan. Bceot. cc. 33, 34. i dwwTtpii) rfjg Kiliprjg kv tiS
irriyrj. c. 33. x^aP^i>-
3 Kwpr) o'v pEydXrj.

XII. J BCEOTIA. 139
stones. A small torrent ' flowed near, called Triton.
Between Alalcomenae and Coroneia, and not far
from the latter2, stood the temple of Minerva Itonia,
where the common council of the Boeotians assem
bled. The temple contained brazen statues of Mi
nerva Itonia, and of Jupiter, by Agoracritus, the
disciple of Phidias, to which those ofthe Graces had
recently been added. In Coroneia, the most re
markable objects were the altars of Hermes, Epi-
melius, and of the winds, and a little below them
a temple of Juno, containing an ancient statue
made by Pythodorus of Thebes, in which the
goddess was represented, bearing in one hand the
Sirenes3. Mount Libethrium was about i 40 stades
from Coroneia ; here were statues of the Muses,
and of the nymphs Libethrides, and two fountains,
named Libethrias and Petra, resembling the breasts
of a woman, and producing water like milk. From
Coroneia to Mount Laphystium and the sanctuary 5
of Jupiter Laphystius, the distance was about 20
stades : the statue was of stone. Above it there
was an image of Hercules Charops. Between
Mount Laphystium and the temple of Minerva
Itonia, the river Phalarus crossed the road, flow
ing to the Lake Cephissis. Over against 6 Mount
Laphystium was the city Orchomenus.
1 irorapbg bv pkyag xilPaP~ latter having obtained the vic-
pog. tory, formed crowns for them-
2 irplv kg KopirvEiav k'£ 'AXaX- selves from the feathers of the
KopEvwv d(j>iKEadai. c. 34. wings of the Sirens.
3 The Sirens had been per- * ug.
suaded by Juno to contend with 5 rkpEvog.
the Muses in singing, and the c -Kipav.
13

140 BCEOTLA. [CHAP.
This last remark of Pausanias seems alone suf
ficient to identify Mount Laphystium with the moun
tain of Granitza, which is separated from Mount
Helicon by a pass leading from St. George to Livad
hia, and advances near Kalamaki, north-eastward,
into the plain exactly opposite to the hill of Skripu
or Orchomenus. The exact situation of the temenus
of Jupiter Laphystius cannot easily be ascertained
but by the discovery of some remains of the temple,
as the distance of twenty stades from Coroneia will
correspond with many points on the mountain of
Granitza. The temple of Minerva Itonia was at the
foot of the mountain in the plain on the eastern
side of Coroneia, and as it would appear from
Strabo, on the bank of the torrent which flows
there, for he observes of this temple, that it was
founded after the Trojan war by the Bceoti of the
Thessalian Arne, who having been expelled from
Thessaly by the Epirotes1, occupied Coroneia, and
built the temple in the plain before the city 2.
He adds, that the river which flowed by the temple,
received its name Cuarius, written Coralius byAl-
caeus in some verses relating to Coroneia, from a
Thessalian stream 3, and that at the temple of
Minerva Itonia, the Pambceotian festival was cele
brated. If, as seems evident from the various
testimonies just cited, the river on the eastern
side of Coroneia was the Cuarius, it follows that
the river of St. George, on the western side, is the
1 Thucyd. 1. 1, c. 12. Thessalian river is named Cu-
2 kv rip irpb avrrjg tteBiio. — ralius. Alcaeus being of Mity-
Strabo, p. 411. lene, and writing in iEolic,
a In p. 438 of Strabo, the used w for ov.

XII. J BC30TIA. 141
Phalarus. According to Plutarch, a branch of
the Phalarus, which joined it near Coroneia, was
named Isomantus, and more anciently Oplias \
This seems to be the rivulet from Steveniko, which
joins that of St. George a little above the ancient
site. In like manner as the pass of St. George, sepa
rating the mountain of Granitza from the main
body of Helicon, renders probable the supposition
that the former mountain had a separate name,
and was the ancient Laphystium, so a similar reason
leads to the opinion, that the mountain of Zagara
was the ancient Libethrium ; that remarkable sum
mit being completely separated from the great
heights of Helicon, by an elevated valley, in which
are two villages named Zagara, and above them,
on the rugged mountain, a monastery 2. The dis
tance of forty stades, which Pausanias places be
tween Coroneia and Mount Libethrium, will cor
respond to some place in the vale or on the moun
tain of Zagara : and it is not impossible that
the monastery may occupy the exact position of the
sanctuary of the Muses.
1 Upbg KopuivEiav x£tPaP~ races may now be found in the
povv, tu> 4>aXapw irorapiS avp- places so called. We learn
(jjEpbpEvov irapd rrjv iroXiv, bv from the Byzantine history,
¦xdXai pev 'OirXiav vvv Be that the kingdom of Bulgaria,
'laopavTov izpoaayopEvovaiv. — when its capital was Achris,
Plutarch, in Lysand. was known at Constantinople
2 Zayapa, or more commonly by the name of Zagora, which
Zayopa, is a name found in some of the Byzantines sup-
many parts of Greece, and ap- posed to have been formed
pears to have been introduced from a Greek word, kfayopd. —
by the Servians or Bulgarians, Nicetas in Alex. Comn. — Ni-
although no people of those cephor. Gregor. 1. 5, ... 1.

142 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
If Zagara was Libethrium, Tilphusium, Tilphos-
sium or Tilphossaeum was evidently confined to the
height now called Petra. It is justly described by
Harpocration as a mountain near the lake Copais l.
The fortress on the summit, probably bore the same
name, which was derived from the source Tilphusa
or Tilphossa, at the foot of the hill 2. In the hymn
to Apollo, commonly ascribed to Homer, the word
is written Delphusa3, and seems in that ancient
poem, which contains many geographical incon
sistencies, to have been confounded with Delphi, a
word of the same etymological origin *, and derived
also from its remarkable fountain. At Tilphusa,
besides a tomb of Teiresias there was a sanctuary
of Apollo Tilphosius 5.
Dec. 8. — At 10.5, quitting my lodging in the
lower part of the town of Livadhia, I descend along
the right side of the Hercyna into the valley, through
gardens and a rich cultivated tract ; and at 10.25,
leaving the road to Kapurna to the left cross a
little below the junction of its two branches, the
river which is formed by the union of the Her
cyna with that already mentioned as flowing from
a valley to the westward. The Hercyna is the more
considerable stream of the two, is permanent in
summer, and abounds in trout, which are not pro
duced in the western branch ; the course of the
united river, nevertheless, is a continuation of that
of the western branch, and appears from Theo-
phrastus to have been called, at its junction with
1 Harpocrat. in Ti\<j>iaaaa~iov. 3 Hymn, in Apoll. v. 244.
2 Pindar, ap. Athen. 1. 2, c.4. * teXXio.
Strabo, p. 411. Pausan. Boeot. " Strabo, ibid.
c. 33.

XII. J BG30T1A. 143
the lake, not Hercyna, but Probatia x, which was
probably the name of the western branch. The
valley which it waters, is the territory, perhaps,
of a town near Lebadeia, named Trachin 2. I
have already observed, that the road from Livad
hia to Kastri and Salona by " the triple way,"
as well as that to Dhistomo or Ambryssus, led
along this valley. Proceeding, we soon arrive
under some rocky hills on the northern side
of the vale of Lebadeia, — and having passed, at
10.45, through the little hamlet of Krupi at the
foot of these hills, soon begin to open the vale of
Chaeroneia. At 11.15, we are at the eastern ex
tremity of the heights which separate the valleys
of Chaeroneia and Lebadeia, and which terminate
northward in a projection immediately opposite to
the high precipitous summit of Mount Acontium;
midway in the plain, rises the barrow near the
right bank of the Cephissus, which I suppose to be
a monument of the battle between Sylla and the
forces of Mithradates ; near the tumulus, the river
turns from its previous course along the foot of the
Acontium, towards the middle of the plain, but
near Orchomenus again approaches the mountain,
and then "winds like a serpent3" round Orchome
nus into the marshes.
1 Theophr. de plant. 1. 4, c. 12.
' Strabo, p. 423.
3 . . . . *Og irapa IlavoiriSa FXriKiovd t kpvpvrjv
Kal te Bi 'OpxopEvov eiXiypkvog Eiai, BpaKiov £>g.
Hesiod. ap. Strabon. p. 424.
It would seem, from these verses, that Glecon was another
name for Chaeroneia.

144 B030T1A. [CHAP.
The direct road from Livadhia to Talanda now
branches to the left, and after crossing the plain of
Chaeroneia enters the vale which separates Acontium
from Edylium, from whence it proceeds, over the
connecting ridge, to Vogdhani. Before we begin to
cross the plain in a direct line to the extremity of
Mount Acontium, upon which Orchomenus was built,
we pass an insulated hill near the extremity of the
Chceroneian ridges, on the summit of which stands
one of a system of towers, resembling those which
are observable in the Morea. They seem to have
been intended for communication by signal, and
may all be attributed to the Frank princes who
possessed Greece in the thirteenth and fourteenth
centuries. Some of the most remarkable in Baotia
are — near Bissikeni, at Neokhorio in the district of
Thespice, at Megalomulki on the site of Haliartus,
at Xeropyrgo on a point of the hill which projects
into the marshes two miles E.N.E. of Orchomenus,
and there is another beyond the latter, not far from
Topolia. We now cross the opening of the vale of
Chaeroneia direct to Skripu, cross the Cephissus by
a bridge, and arrive at Skripu exactly at noon. This
village consists of about one hundred houses, stand
ing partly on the rocky base of the mountain, and
partly on the river side in the plain, just where, after
having flowed along the southern side of Acontium,
it turns from an eastern to a north-eastern course,
and thence north into the marshes. Passing through
the village, we proceed to the monastery of the
0eot6*koc, situated a little beyond it to the northward.
Orchomenus, like many other Greek cities, oc
cupied the triangular face of a steep mountain, at

XII.]

BCSOTIA.

145

its rise from the plain ; and possessed in perfection
those advantages of position, which the Greek en
gineers generally sought for, being defended on
every side by precipices, rivers, and marshes. The
summit is naturally separated from the ridge of
Acontium, which accounts for the distinctive appel
lation Hyphanteium mentioned by Theopompus.
But the upper part of the hill forming a very
acute angle, was fortified differently from the cus
tomary modes.

aM-Acontimn %.

road -from Livadlua-
VOL. II.

146 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
Instead of a considerable portion of it having been
inclosed to form an acropolis, there is only a small
castle on the summit, having a long narrow ap
proach to it from the body of the town, between
walls which, for the last two hundred yards, are
almost parallel, and not more than twenty or thirty
yards asunder. Below this approach to the citadel
the breadth of the hill gradually widens, and in
the lowest part of the town the inclosed space is
nearly square. It is defended on the lowest side
by a wall, which crossed the slope of the hill along
the crest of a ledge of rock, which there forms a
division in the slope. In this wall, which is at three
fourths of the distance from the castle to the monas
tery, there are some foundations of the gate which
formed the lower entrance into the city ; and on
the outside of it are many large masses of wrought
stone, the remains, apparently, of some temple or
other public building. The southern wall of the
city, which follows a line parallel to the Cephissus, is
traceable, with scarcely any intermission, through
a distance of three quarters of a mile ; and in many
places several courses of masonry are still extant.
The wall derives its flank defence from square
towers, placed for the most part at long intervals,
with an intermediate short flank, or break, in the line
of wall. In a few places, the masonry is of a very
early age, but in general it is of the third kind, or
almost regular. The former dates from the earlier
and more celebrated Orchomenus, the latter is
probably posterior to the battle of Chaeroneia, when
the Orchomenii were restored to their possessions by
Philip, son of Amyntas, and when their city, which

XII. J BC30TIA. 147
had been destroyed near thirty years before by the
Thebans, was re-established.
Towards the middle of the northern side the hill
of Orchomenus is most precipitous, and here the
walls are not traceable. The circumference of
the whole was about two miles. The citadel
occupies a rock, about forty yards in diameter,
and seems to have been an irregular hexagon;
but three sides only remain, no foundations being
visible on the eastern half of the rock. At the
northern angle are the ruins of a tower, and paral
lel to the north-western side there is a ditch cut in
the rock, beyond which are some traces of an out
work. The hill is commanded by the neighbouring
part of Mount Acontium, but not at such a distance
as to have been of importance in ancient warfare.
The access to the castle from the city was first by
an oblique flight of forty-four steps, six feet wide,
and cut out of the rock ; and then by a direct flight
of fifty steps of the same kind.
The monuments which Pausanias remarked at
Orchomenus were temples of Bacchus and of the
Graces, the treasury of Minyas, a fountain ', to
which there was a descent, tombs of Minyas and
of Hesiod, and a brazen figure bound by a chain
of iron to a rock, supposed to represent a spectre
which had haunted this rock, and which the oracle
of Delphi, on being consulted, pronounced to be
the ghost of Actaeon. The Oracle ordained that
the remains of Actaeon should be buried, and the
statue erected which Pausanias saw. The temple
of the Graces was extremely ancient; they were
1 Kpr\vr\. — Pausan. Boeot. c. 38.
l2

148 BOZOTIA. [CHAP.
worshipped under the figure of rude stones, said
to have fallen from heaven in the time of Eteocles,
the founder of the temple, who lived several gene
rations before the Trojan war. It was not until
the time of Pausanias that statues of the goddesses,
in stone, were added. The treasurv of Minvas
was a circular building rising to a summit not
very pointed, but terminating in a stone which was
said to hold together the entire building l.
Some remains, which have every appearance of
having belonged to the last-mentioned building,
are found to the eastward of the lower wall, where
the height terminates in a low projection which is
separated from the river by a level onlv a few hun
dred yards in breadth. The artists employed by
Lord Elgin attempted to excavate the ruins of the
building, but were deterred from making much
progress by the large masses of stone which pre
sented themselves, and which thev had not the
means of removing. As all the lower parts of the
construction are buried in the ruins of the upper,
they will probablv be found in situ whenever a
complete excavation shall be made. Some de
tails may then be obtained of this curious edi
fice, which was supposed to be a century more
ancient than the similar building at Mycenae, and
the first of the kind that was ever erected 2.
The door- way, of which there are considerable
1 XiBov pkv Elpyaarai, axvpa 2 6r)aavpov te dvBpw— w, wv
CE TTEpilflEpEg EOTIV avTui' KO- "itTflEV, \liriag xp<3ro£ ££ v—o-
pvpi) ce ovk kg ayav 6-v art)*/- Boxijv xpripdrotv tJkoSopJicaTO.
fiivr}' tov Be dvuiTarii) twv XI- — Pausan. Bceot. c. 36.
8o)v tpaalv apporini trarrl Etvat
tu> o'lKoBofniftart. 13

XII. J

BCEOTIA.

149

remains, closely resembled that of the treasury of
Atreus. In both, the sides of the door inclined, so as
to make it wider below than above ; nor are the
dimensions of the corresponding parts very different
in the two doors. The width is the same within a few
inches : here I measured eight feet three inches im
mediately below the soffit, at Mycenae eight feet six
inches. There were probably two great slabs in the
architrave, as at Mycenae, though one only is now
left, which is of white marble, of six unequal sides,
sixteen feet in its greatest length, eight in its
greatest breadth, and three feet two inches and a
half in thickness. It is consequently much smaller
than the larger of the two slabs above the door of
the treasury of Atreus, which is twenty-eight feet
long and nineteen broad on its upper surface, and
three feet nine inches in thickness. As at My
cenae, the edge of the stone, which formed a part
of the interior surface of the building, was curved
both horizontally and vertically. The versed sine
of the arch on the upper surface is one foot three
inches and seven-eighths, and the chord fourteen
feet nine inches, which will give a diameter of
about forty-one feet.
Upper Side
10 feet. Section.

3.2 i-

The corresponding dimension of the treasury of
Atreus, or its diameter at the top ofthe door, is about

150 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
thirty-seven feet. From this comparison, therefore,
it would seem that the treasury of Minyas was larger
than that of Atreus, though there could hardly
have been such a difference between the two mo
numents as the reader might infer from the admira
tion of Pausanias in the one instance, and his silence
in the other. Of the Orchomenian building he
asserts that there was nothing more wonderful either
in Greece or in any other country, and he compares
it to the walls of Tiryns and the pyramids of
Egypt. But the extravagance of the latter com
parison is brought down to a reasonable level by
the former ; and was probably suggested to Pau
sanias by a peculiarity in the Orchomenian trea
sury, in which it appears to have differed from
that of Mycenae 1, namely, that the former was not
subterraneous like the latter, and consequently
that its exterior form resembled, in some measure,
that of the Egyptian pyramids. A subterraneous
construction of this kind, when formed on the side
of a hill as at Mycenae, presented from without
little more than an entrance into the hill between
walls ending in a door-way ; whereas the descrip
tion of the treasury of Minyas as rising to a summit
not very pointed, seems evidently to imply that it
was not hidden in the earth. The situation of the
ruins of the treasury of Minyas confirms in some
measure this supposition, the ground being rocky
and almost level, and therefore in neither parti
cular adapted to a building like that of Mycenae,
which required a sloping hill of friable materials.
Perhaps the assertion of the Orchomenii as to the
1 See Travels in the Mono, c. 20.

XII. J BG30TIA. 151
upper stone of their building, which suggests a
difference of construction between their treasury
and that of Atreus, may also be explained by the
former having been exposed to view, and not sub
terraneous ; since it is probable that in that case
the upper stone was not simply super-imposed, as
at Mycenae, but was connected with the surround
ing masonry. It might even be inferred from the
meaning which Pausanias on all other occasions
gives to the word appovia, that the upper part of
the building at Orchomenus was a dome con
structed with stones shaped to a center ; though
it ought also to be remarked that Pausanias, by
the addition of the word <j>ao-l, seems not to have
been himself quite convinced that the assertion of
the Orchomenii was correct.
Strabo observes, that the Orchomenus of his time
was supposed to stand on a different site from the
more ancient city, the inundations of the lake having
forced the inhabitants to retire from the plain to
wards Mount Acontium1. This seems to accord with
the position of the treasury on the outside of the ex
isting walls, since it cannot be conceived that Min
yas would have so placed it. : It is probable, there
fore, that the city, in the height of its power, ex
tended to the extreme point of the hill below the
treasury, and perhaps even to the bank of the
Cephissus. The monastery of Skripu stands about midway
between the treasury and the river, below the
lowest slope of the hill, on a level with the river's
1 Strabo, p. 416,

152 BG30TIA. [CHAP.
bank. It contains a large church, consisting of a
dome and three aisles, which was built, as some
inscriptions coeval with the walls of the church in
dicate, at the end of the ninth century, by Leo,
who held the dignity of Protospatharius under the
emperors Basil, Leo, and Constantine the seventh.
The monastery probably occupies the exact site of
the temple of the Graces ; for it is in the memory
of the present occupants that the pedestal of a
tripod dedicated to the Graces, which is now in the
church, was found in an excavation made on the
spot. Of the other inscriptions which the convent
contains, two have been removed by the persons em
ployed by the Earl of Elgin since I was last here1 ;
the rest I have transcribed. They are all, except
one, in the Bceoto-iEolic dialect, which employed
the digamma, and are consequently very important
to philology. Among them are three epitaphs of a
very remote antiquity. All the other documents
in which the digamma is employed are in charac
ters of a good time of art, and appear to be .all
nearly of the same date. That one of them, hav
ing no appearance of being more recent than the
others, is not so old as Alexander, is proved from
its being a decree of Proxenia in favour of " an iEo-
lian from Alexandreia, " or native of Alexandreia
Troas, the name of which city was not changed from
Antigoneia to Alexandreia until after the death of
1 The two removed are now to Orchomenus, and partly
in the British Museum : one of liquidated. As interest for the
these, which is the longest of remainder he was to enjoy a
all, relates to a loan which had limited right of pasture in the
been made by a man of Elateia Orchomenian land.

XII. J BO30TIA. 153
Alexander1. It is probable, therefore, that they
are all of the third or of the latter end of the
fourth century B. C, as after that time the cities
of Greece were rapidly impoverished, in conse
quence of the wars between the Romans and
their adversaries, of which Greece became the
scene. The document in which the digamma and
other dialectic forms are not used, we may sup
pose to have been posterior to the distinction of
dialects ; but not long afterwards, as it contains,
like one of the dialectic inscriptions, a catalogue
of victors in the games, with many of the same
titles, and is engraved in characters indicative of
no great difference of date. In the inscriptions in
which the digamma is employed, the people are
called 'Epyopevloi, and the town 'Eo^o/xevoc, an
orthography clearly showing that the coins bearing
the types of a Boeotian shield, of an ear of wheat,
a grain of wheat, and a garland of olive, with the
legend EPXO, EPX, EP, or E, were all the money
of this celebrated and wealthy republic.
One of the inscriptions which is inserted in the
exterior wall of the monastery, is a dedication to
Bacchus by two victorious choregi ; probably the
stone supported a tripod 2, as certainly did another
in the church, which records the dedication of a
tripod to the Graces by the Boeotians by command
of the oracle of Apollo. This oracle was probably
that of Tegyra, a place noted for its temple of Apollo
1 Strabo, p. 593. cation to Bacchus. The wor-
2 The second inscription ship of Bacchus at Orcho-
from Orchomenus in the Bri- menus is alluded to by Pau-
tish Museum is a similar dedi- sanias.

154 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
and oracular responses, and at that period of time,
a dependency of Orchomenus '.
Of the three sepulchral inscriptions of remote
antiquity to which I before alluded, one is that of a
woman named Cydille, in the nominative ; the two
others, which are on one stone, are those of Ba
ceuas and Dexon in the dative, preceded by kiri.
KvSLWy is written KuciAAe. Baceuas is Bora f.._
with the digamma, as in the more modern Bceotic
inscriptions, and Dexon is Asv/rov, when neither "B.
nor Q were in the alphabet. The A, B, A, A, X.
3, Y. X. are all of very antique forms, and most
of them resemble the same letters in the Latin
alphabet 2.
Exact! v at the foot ofthe precipitous rocks which
formed the limit of the northern side of the city,
are the sources of the river anciently called Melas,
and now Mavropotami, synonyms derived appa
rently from the dark colour of its deep transparent
waters. Among several sources there are two
much larger than the others, and both consi
derable rivers. One flows north-eastward, and at
a distance of little more than half a mile meets the
Cephissus, which a little beyond the junction be
comes so enveloped among the marshes extending
from thence to the heights to the north-east, on

1 Plutarch in Pelopid. Id. de I have lithograved only the
defect, orac — Semus.et Callis- above-mentioned and one other
thenes ap. Stephan. in Tip -vpa. unpublished (V. Inscript. Nos.
' As the greater part of the 35, 36, 37 \ but have placed
inscriptions of Orchomenus all the most interesting at the
have now been repeatedly pub- end of this volume, in the cur-
lished and commented upon, sive character.

XII. J BOZOTIA. 155
which stands a tower called Xeropyrgo, as to be
scarcely traceable ; but it re-appears in a single body
about three miles to the eastward of Skripu, and
after flowing for some distance in the direction of
Kardhitza turns towards Topolia, where it enters
the lake, which in the present season fills the
whole of the north-eastern bay of the Cephissian
basin. The other large source or branch of the Melas,
which is to the westward of the former, follows for
a considerable distance the foot of the cliffs of Or
chomenus, and is then lost in the marshes. This
illustrates Plutarch, who, after having remarked
that ' ' the plain of Orchomenus is the largest and
finest in Boeotia, but naked of trees and plants,
except towards the Melas," observes, that "this
river rises below the city of Orchomenus, and is
the only river in Greece which is navigable at
its sources, though it has not a long course, the
greater part being lost in impervious and muddy
marshes2, and the remainder uniting with the Ce
phissus near the place where the lake produces
the auletic reed." According to the same author,
the Melas augmented about the summer solstice,
like the Nile, and produced plants of the same
kind as those of the Nile, but not so large, and
bearing no fruit1.
Although I cannot obtain a confirmation of the
periodical swelling of the Melas from the present
inhabitants, such a negative testimony will hardly
1 Plutarch in Sylla. Some by the biographer in the life of
of these remarks are repeated Pelopidas.

156 BMOTIA. [CHAP.
invalidate the observation of the more enlightened
native of the neighbouring Chaeroneia. especially
as such an increase of waters about midsummer
seems no more than natural, the subterraneous
river, which here emerges from its limestone ca
vities, being probably fed by the melting of the
snows on Helicon or Parnassus, and its water,
therefore, being naturallv most abundant in the
season when the snows melt with the greatest
rapidity. The marshes still produce in abundance
the reeds for which Orchomenus was anciently
noted. The auletic or flute-reed is described by
PHny as very long, and without knots1. Plutarch
observes, that the best were produced near the
junction of the Cephissus and Melas. But the
latter river was not generally favourable to them,
according to Theophrastus. who mentions as the
best situations some deep pools called the Chytri,
in a place named Pelicania, between the Melas and
Cephissus 2 ; the confluence of the Probatia and that
of the Cephissus with the lake, a place to the north
ward of the latter junction, named Boedrias. and
generally wherever the water was deep and the bot
tom muddy3. Hence the growth and quality de
pended upon the depth of water in the lake, which
varied annually, and was said to be greatest everv
ninth year. Distinct from the auletic reed were the
1 Plin. H. X. 1. 16, c. 35. 3 Theophrast. de plant. 1. 4,
2 The place where the Ce- c 12. Strabo (p. 407) notices
phissus joined was named bula the auletic reeds of the marshes
tapi), or the sharp turning : of Haliartus.
near it was a fertile plain named
Hippias.

XII. J BCSOTIA. 157
Characeias, or reed serving to make fences and
pallisades, which was very thick and strong, and
grew on the banks of the lake ; and the Plotia,
so called as growing on the irAoaSae, or floating
islands, which, like those of the Lake of Ioan-
nina, are formed of decayed reeds, rushes, and
roots of grass, furnishing a soil for fresh plants, and
which, detaching themselves from the edge of large
tracts of the same materials, are launched into the
lake by the wind.
These and other peculiarities of the Cephissis it
would be interesting to examine more minutely, but
not a single monoxylo is possessed by any ofthe vil
lages on this side of the plain. Hence the inhabi
tants derive little or no benefit from either the vege
table or animal productions of the lake and its
surrounding marshes, though the monks of Skripu
describe all the watery parts as being covered at
times with water-fowl, and are fully aware of the
excellence of those eels so renowned among the
ancient Athenians, and which the monks describe
as large, white, of delicate flavour, and light of
digestion. They are taken in considerable num
bers by the people of Topolia in the permanent
part of the lake near that town, from whence, either
fresh or salted, they are carried for sale throughout
the surrounding country, especially in the time of
Lent. When both Attica and Bceotia were rich
and populous, the Cephissis and other lakes of
Boeotia furnished the people of this province with
the means of a constant and advantageous traffic
with Attica, which possesses not a single trout
stream, nor a lake except that of Marathon, which

158 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
in the summer is reduced to such small dimensions,
that a Boeotian eel could hardly exist in it.
Although the ancients employed the words Ce
phissis and Copais without any clear discrimina
tion, a very convenient distinction may be made
between the Copais or lake of Copae, which was
the north-eastern extremity of the basin, where
even in summer some water always remains,
and the Cephissis, which comprehends the whole
tract of occasional lakes and marshes, impassably
limited by a range of heights on the northern and
eastern sides, but blended with the plain in the
opposite quarter, and in all directions enlarging
or diminishing its boundaries according to the
season. At present the plain is dry half way from
Skripu to Xeropyrgo, the rest is a marsh ; the
edge of which follows a line drawn from Xeropyrgo
to Petra ; but the level of the waters is now much
lower than it is expected to be in the spring. South
erly gales, as Pausanias has observed, are apt to
inundate the levels near Orchomenus.
The fertility of this plain is shown by its maize :
I counted 900 grains in one cob; the reed is very
strong and large, and, plastered with mud, it forms
the most common material of the cottages near the
Cephissic marshes. The stem contains a consider
able quantity of saccharine matter : I have often
seen the Egyptians eat it like a sugar cane, but
here it is too valuable to be much used in its im
mature state.
The citadel of Orchomenus, besides the unlimited
view which it commands of the great western basin
of Bceotia, and its renowned barriers, looks down

XII. J BOZOTIA. 159
to the north-east upon a country of considerable
extent, lying between the mountains of Talanda
and the northern shore of the lake. It is cultivated
around a few villages, but in general furnishes pas
ture only, the soil being, in most parts, of no great
fertility. The principal villages are Lutzi, Radhi
and Pavlo, lying in that order from hence, and all
belonging to the district of Thebes. Beyond them
in the mountains towards the Euhoic frith, are Pro-
skyna and Malesina in the Vilayeti of Talanda, and
Martino in that of Livadhia.
Xeropyrgo, situated three miles E.N.E. of Skripu,
on the heights which bound the marshes, is proba
bly the site of Tegyra, for Plutarch says that Tegyra
stood not far from Orchomenus, above the marshes
of the Melas, and that the road from the one to the
other led through a pass caused by those marshes.
This pass was the scene of an important victory
gained by Pelopidas over the Spartans, and which
was soon followed by that of Leuctra1. Tegyra not
being named in the Homeric catalogue of the Boeo
tian cities, and having been so near to the powerful
Orchomenus, was probably never of any great im
portance, except from its temple of Apollo, and an
Oracle which had ceased before the battle of Tegyra.
In the time of Plutarch all the part of Bceotia to the
northward of the lake Copais, seems to have been
no better inhabited than it is at present, for in one
of his Dialogues he introduces an assertion, that
about Tegyra and Mount Ptoum, two places form
erly so much famed for their oracles, hardly a
1 Plutarch, in Pelop.

160 B030TIA. [CHAP. XII.
herdsman or shepherd was to be met with in a
day's journey. All Greece, he adds, could hardly
furnish 3000 hoplitae, or the number which the
State of Megara alone sent against the Persians
at Platsea1. It is not to be supposed, however,
that the best parts of Greece were as much depo
pulated as these unproductive districts ; or that the
population of Greece had diminished, in the same
proportion as the number of regular troops main
tained by it. The Roman conquest had put an
end to the maintenance of native soldiers, and to
the military art in Greece, and although as early
as the time of Polybius, the population and wealth
of the country had been grievously diminished, and
had not improved in the reign of Augustus, there
can be little doubt, that between this time and that
of Hadrian, Greece had somewhat recovered, in
consequence of the peace and protection which the
country enjoyed in common with the other pro
vinces of the Roman Empire, and to a greater de
gree than many of them.
1 Plutarch, de defect. Orac.

CHAPTER XIII.

BCEOTIA, PHOCIS, LOCRIS.
Departure from Skripu — Source of the Melas — Tzamali, Asple-
don — -Exarkho — Abae — Temple of Apollo — Vogdhani — Hy-
ampolis — Talanda — Atalan ta — Opus — Cynus — Orobiae —
Mdepsus — Topography of Eastern Locris — Daphnus — Alope,
Cnemides, Thronium, river Boagrius, Scarpheia, Nicaea, Pha-
rygae or Tame, Augeiae, Bessa, Calliarus — Mount Cnemis —
Mount Khlomo, Cyrtone — Corseia — Return to Valtesi — Ka-
lapodhi, Naryx — Sfaka — Merali — Khubavo — Paleokastro of
Belissi, Parapotamii — River Cephissus — Kapurna — Return to
Livadhia — Ancient military transactions in the plain of Chae
roneia — battle between Sylla and Archelaus — Mount Philo-
boeotus — River Assus — Mount Thurium — Rivers Morius, Molus
— Assia — Departure forThebes — Petra — Ocalea — Mazi — Ha
liartus — Death of Ly sander — River Lophis — Fountain Cissusa,
Orchalides — Mount Alopecum — Rivers Permessus, Olmeius —
Onchestus — Mount Faga, Phcenicium or Phicium — The Teneric
plain — -Thebes.
Dec. 9. — This forenoon, having quitted the monas
tery of Skripu, 1 cross the north-eastern angle of
the ancient city, and at 10.58 begin to pass by a
narrow paved road, between the foot of the upper
cliffs which formed the northern boundary of the
city and the summit of the lower, which imme
diately overhang the principal source of the Melas,
or that which joins the Cephissus. It is difficult to
understand where the Temple of Hercules could
have been; which Pausanias places at the springs
VOL. II. M

162 BOZOTIA. [CHAP.
of the Melas, seven stades from Orchomenus \ for
the rock rises so abruptly from them, that there is
no position for a temple, and the sources are not
seven stades from Orchomenus, but immediately
under its northern side. At 11.9, we quit the
lower range of cliffs, the higher still overhanging
the road, and soon afterwards begin to descend the
rugged side of the mountain, by a most perilous
path. At 11.33, having arrived at the foot of
the hill, we enter a plain on the north-eastern
side of Mount Acontium, bounded eastward by
the marshes of the Melas, and pursue the borders
of the marsh to Tzamali, a small collection of huts
on the brink, where we arrive at 11.45. This
seems to be the site of Aspledon, a Boeotian citv in
the time of the Trojan war, but in that of the Roman
Empire an abandoned site of the Orchomenia.
Strabo states, that its distance from Orchomenus
was twenty stades, which is sufficientlv correct, and
that the Melas flowed between them 2, which is true
as to the northern Melas, though it is not crossed
in the road. It is not easy, however, to understand
" the western exposure," by which Strabo en
deavours to account for Eudeielus, the name of
Aspledon in later times, Tzamali being open to the
eastward, and surrounded by heights in a western
direction. Nor is the abandonment of the place
by its inhabitants in consequence of the scarcity of
1 Pausanias, Bceot. c. 38. KXlparog oike'iov Toig Karoixovai
2 . . . . ti)v ' Aa—XijBbva .... Kal pdXiara to EVXEipEpov.
Elr' EvJei'eXoc pErurvopdaOii Kal  Aie'xe' ci tov 'QpxofiEvov
avTr) Kal »'/ X(*'Pa ™Xa "' l^^u>Pa ardBia EiKoai psra^v B' 6 MtXaj
irpoadiEpopkvri ec tov BeiXivov iro-a^iog. — Strabo, p. 415.

xin. J. phocis. 163
water, as reported by Pausanias \ compatible with
the vicinity of such a river as the Melas. Upon
examining, however, the words of the two authors,
we find that neither of them guarantees the fact
which he alludes to, from his personal knowledge.
The word toy_o, employed by Strabo, and the tpao-i
of Pausanias, leave the origin of the name, Eu-
deielus, and the cause of the abandonment of the
site of Aspledon, equally doubtful.
At Tzamali we quit the Topolia road and turn
to the left to the head of the plain ; at 11.55 leave
to the right that which conducts to the places
lying between the northern shore of the Cephissis
and the Euhoic frith, and at 12.11, arriving at
the western extremity of the plain of Aspledon,
ascend some rugged hills which connect Mount
Acontium with the peak now called Khlomo. At
12.35, at the head of the ascent, we enter upon a
plain which, interrupted by some small heights,
reaches to the northern side of Mount Acontium,
and is connected in the opposite direction with a
hollow which slopes to Khubavo, Belissi, and the
Stena ofthe Cephissus. At 12.45 we halt till 1.24
at a fountain to dine ; and after a rugged descent,
arrive at 1.40 at Exarkho2, a village of 30 houses,
in a spot where two narrow valleys meet, which
rise from hence towards two summits of the ridge
of Khlomo. The northern is the largest, and is in
great part cultivated.
On a peaked hill above Exarkho, to the west,
1 ' AawXrjBbva Be ekXitteIv rovg (ovrag. — Pausan. Bceot. c. 38.
oiKrjTopdg (fiaaiv, vBarog oiravt- 2 "Efapxeg-
M 2

164 phocis. [chap.
are the ruins of a small polis, probably -A ba. The
hill being, like all the others of this range, a bare
rugged rock of white lime-stone, and the walls
being built of the same stone, the ruins might
easily be passed without notice at a short distance,
although nearly half the height of the wall is in
some places extant. No remains are now to be
seen on the summit of the peak ; but on its south
western side two parallel walls are traceable at
the distance of about 100 yards asunder, which
formed apparently an interior inclosure of the
citadel. These walls in most part are a perfect
specimen of the second order of Hellenic masonry,
having, as it were, but one course in the whole
work. Some of the polygonal masses are very
large. As usual in Greek fortresses ofthe highest
antiquity, there were very few towers, the cross
defence being chiefly procured by simple flanks at
intervals. There is one tower, however, near the
principal gate. This gate, which is now buried to
within six feet of the top, is of a singular form, the
upper part, which is three feet high, diminishing
from ten feet in breadth to seven and a half. This
seems to have been merely an opening to admit
light, for immediately below it there are projections
from the wall on each side, which were evidently
pivots for the suspension of folding doors. There are
the vestiges of two other gates immediately opposite
to each other in the parallel walls before noticed.
The hill is quite insulated, and is very difficult of
ascent on the north-eastern and eastern sides,
where no walls are now traceable. I cannot re
cognize any remains of the theatre which Pau-

xm. J phocis. 165
sanias remarked, and which, as well as the
Agora, was of an antique construction. Havino-
descended the hill on the west, passed through a
ravine, and entered the plain at a point which is
halfway on the road from Exarkho to Vogdhani,
we arrive a little farther at a small eminence
advancing into the valley, upon which are some
remains of a square building of regular Hellenic
masonry, but built of stones smaller than usual.
The lower part of the wall of one side of the in
closure is extant, together with a portion of one of
the adjoining sides. Within the inclosed space lies
a large square stone, with a simple moulding, toge
ther with another, circular and pierced in the
middle, probably the peristomium of a cistern or
granary. I have little doubt that these are re
mains of the temple of Apollo of Abae, whose
oracle was of such ancient and extensive cele"^~
brity, that it was consulted, together with triat.
of Trophonius, by Croesus, and again by Mar-
donius l. It was twice destroyed by fire ; the first
time by the Persians, in their march through
Phocis, after they had taken Hyampolis 2 ; and
again, in the Phocic war, b. c. 346. The Boeo
tians were posted at the temple, while the Phocians
were erecting a fortress at or near Abae 3, when a fire
1 Herodot. 1. 1, c. 46; 1. 8, aiirovg ol Botwroi. — Diodor. 1.
c. 134. 16, c. 58. Pausan. Phocic. c.
2 Id. 1. 8, c. 33. 35. The Phocians were pro-
3 tSiv $iok£iov olKoBopovvriov bably repairing the citadel of
<f>povpiov vEpl rag bvop.a£op£vag Abae itself on the. summit of
"A(3ag Kad' etc kanv ' AiroXXwvog the hill.
iiytov lEpbv, karpdrEvaav iir

166 phocis. [chap.
having occurred, accidentally according to Dio
dorus, but which Pausanias attributes with more
probability to the Thebans, the temple was de
stroyed, as well as some Phocian refugees within it.
Hence it is evident that the temple was not within
the city, which agrees with the existing ruins.
The most ancient and celebrated temples of Greece
were generally so detached. The grove of Tro
phonius furnishes, a neighbouring example, and
perhaps that of the Graces at Orchomenus was
another. The practice was closely connected with
the peculiar character of the people, whose sense
of the inviolability of the sacred places, was only
exceeded by their jealous mistrust of one another.
After the second misfortune, the temple of Abae
remained a ruin until the reign of Hadrian, when
that emperor caused a smaller to be erected ad
jacent to the ancient building ; and of this, or
rather of its peribolus, the existing walls are pro
bably the remains. In the new temple, Pausanias
found three ancient upright statues, in brass, of
Apollo, Latona, and Diana, which were dedica
tions of the Abaei, and had perhaps been saved
from the former temple.
From hence it takes me 10 minutes to ride to
Vogdhani1 a village smaller than Exarkho, and
situated just at the upper extremity of a valley,
which slopes to Belissi and Khubavo, and where
the torrents from Mount Khlomo and the adjoining
ridges unite, and descend through the middle of
the aforesaid valley to the Cephissus. The prin-
1 BoyBdvt].

xni. J phocis. 167
cipal branch comes from the north, along a vale
which is inclosed between Mount Khlomo and a
parallel ridge which has already been described
as having its south-western termination at Khu
bavo, Merali, and Sfaka, at the northern entrance
of the Stena of the Cephissus.
At 5 minutes northward of Vogdhani, a point
or tongue, advancing from the western mountain
into the valley, is crowned with the ruins of a
small ancient town, which Pausanias shows to
have been Hyampolis ; for he states that the road
from Orchomenus to Opus led by Abae and Hyam
polis, but that Abae was a little on the left of the
route 1. Mount Khlomo being exactly interposed
between Skripu and Talanda, near which latter
Opus was situated, the road from Orchomenus
to Opus naturally followed the easy valleys to the
westward of that mountain, instead of making a
direct course over it, and traversed consequently
the site of Exarkho, leaving the hill of Abae on the
left, from whence it passed under the walls of
Hyampolis, which advance into the middle of the
valley. The road from Hyampolis to Elateia is ex
pressly described by Pausanias as a mountain -road;
and we find accordingly, that a mountain occu
pies all the space between Lefta and Vogdhani.
1 'Eg "Aj3ag Be aipiKEadai Kal 7roXv eV dpiarEpdv bBbg {> kg
kg 'YapiroXiv 'iari pkv e£ 'EXa- "Afiag 
TEiag opEivr/v bobv kv BeE,i(j tov 
'EXartwj' dareiog' r) Be kiri 'EiravEXOovra Be (ab Abis scil.)
'Qirovvra XEuxpopog r) e£ 'Opx°- kg rr)v bBbv rrjv Eg 'Owovvra
pEvov Kal kg ravrag ipkpEi Tag EvdEiav, 'YdpiroXig to aVo tov-
iroXEig. 'Iovti oiiv kg 'Ottovvtu tov oe EKBk^ETai. — Pausan.
ki 'OpxopEvov Kal kKTpairivri oil Phocic. c. 35.

168 phocis. [chap.
Hyampolis having been situated at the entrance
of a narrow vale, leading to the Opontia and sea-
coast of the Epicnemidii, and which formed a con
venient entrance from Locris both into Phocis
and into Bceotia : its name occurs on several
occasions in ancient history. Herodotus has
related some remarkable circumstances attending
a victory gained at Hyampolis by the Phocians
over the Thessalians \ and Diodorus informs us,
that a contest took place here on a somewhat
similar occasion, between the people of Bceotia
and of Phocis2, in the year B. C. 347. Before
that time, Jason of Pherae, returning out of Bceo
tia after the battle of Leuctra, and passing by
Hyampolis in his way to Heracleia Trachinia,
had taken the irpoao-Tuov, or outer city, probably
from the same motive which prompted him to
destroy the walls of Heracleia, namely, that they
should not be any impediment to his free passage
into Greece 3. It was undoubtedly for a similar
reason that the walls of Hyampolis were demo
lished by Philip son of Amyntas 4.
The entire circuit of the fortifications is trace
able, but they are most complete on the western
side. The masonry is of the third, nearly ap
proaching to the most regular kind. The circum
ference is about three quarters of a mile. The
1 Herodot. 1. 8, c. 28. cient agora, council-house, and
2 Diodor. 1. 16, c. 56. theatre, still remained, it was
3 Xenoph. Hellen. 1. 6, c. 4. evidently against the fortifica-
4 fytXiirwov KaraaKatf/avTog. tions that Philip directed his
Pausan. Phocic. c. 35. As politic vengeance on this occa-
Pausanias adds, that the an- sion.

xin. J phocis. 169
direct distance to this ruin from the summit of
Abae is not more than a mile and a half in a
north-west direction. Below Vogdhani, on the
side of a steep bank which falls to the valley of
Khubavo, a fountain issuing from the rock is dis
charged through two spouts into a stone reservoir
of ancient construction, which stands probably in
its original place.
Dec. 10. — Ten minutes from Vogdhani south-
westward, is another source of water, which issues
from the rocks on the side of the road leading from Ta
landa to Livadhia, near three small ruined churches
standing in a grove of trees : the stream from the
rocks having joined that which flows from the foun
tain of Vogdhani, falls into the united torrent from
the valleys of Aba and Hyampolis, and from thence
flows to the Cephissus near Belissi. One of the
ruined churches contains an inscribed stone, but ill
preserved, and in so dark a situation that I was
unable to copy it, though I could distinguish the
words apyvplov pvdg TpictKovra, and at the end
pdprvpiQ ol Oeol. Having returned to Vogdhani, and
set out for Talanda, I again visit the ruins of Hy
ampolis. On a small level in the centre of the
ancient site lie some architectural fragments of con
siderable dimensions, adorned with mouldings, and
a large cistern faced at the top with wrought stones,
but below hollowed out of the rock, which is here
covered only with a thin layer of earth. The open
ing of the cistern is 9 feet 1 0 inches long, and 4 feet
broad, and spreads below into the usual spheroidal
form ; it is now filled with rubbish. There are many
other smaller cisterns of the same kind, some of

170 locris. [chap.
which are lined with stucco. The ground within
the fortress is partly cultivated. The valley of Hy
ampolis, like most of the similar sites in Bceotia, has
a light fertile^soi'^ but is marshy in wi'nt.pr.
Pausanias says of Hyampolis, that though it had
been burnt by Xerxes, and again destroyed by
Philip, there remained an ancient Agora, a small
council-house1, a theatre not far from the gates, a
stoa built by Hadrian, and a temple of Diana, of
which he did not see the statue, as it was shown
only twice a year. He adds, that with the excep
tion of_a single well, the inhabitants had no other
water than that which fell from heaven. The larger
receptacle, therefore, was probably a public cistern,
and the smaller excavations may have been private
repositories for the same purpose. Abae was no
hpttgT Slipplipfl ™it.Vi wntpr than Hyampolis^ Vint
both of them had a good resource at no great dis-
tance in the fountains which 1 have described.
Leaving the ruins at 10.13, we follow the valley
which conducts to Talanda, and which at the
widest part is half a mile broad, bounded on either
side by the lower heights of the two including
ridges. To the left leads the road to Kalapodhi,
Geli2, and a monastery of St. Elias ; a part, pro
bably, of the ancient bpuvri 6§oc, from Hyampolis to
Elateia. On our right are the steeps of Mount Khlo-
mos, or Khlomo3. At 10.43 the village of Valtesi is
a quarter of a mile on the left; above which the vale
narrows rapidly : instead of following it we ascend
1 (3ovXEVTr)piov. — Pausan. 2 KaXairbBi, IY-eXi.
Phocic. c. 35. 3 XXopog.

xin. J locris. 171
the lower heights of Khlomo, when Kalapodhi soon
appears in a cultivated slope of the opposite hills,
two miles in direct distance from us, and three
miles distant Geli in a higher situation, to the
northward ofthe former. St. Eliasis on the other
side of the ridge of Geli. We now pass over barren
hills covered with the purno-kokki oak : at 11.18,
Purnari, which derives its name from those shrubs,
is a mile on the left, at the head of the little valley
of Valtesi, which has now dwindled to a mere
ravine. Soon afterwards, crossing a brook which
flows into the plain of Talanda, we descend the
mountain, and at 12.20, after a halt of 15 minutes
arrive in the plain, at the entrance of which are
some mills turned by the same stream. We then
diverge to the right under Mount Khlomo, and at
12.38 enter Talanda, or Talandi K
This town contains about 300 houses, of which
one-third are Turkish ; some of these are large, and
each having its garden, they look well at a dis
tance ; but the greater part are said to be desolate,
and verging to ruin, partly in consequence of a
plague, which carried off entire families not many
years ago. The governor is Issed Bey, a son of
the Kapijilar Kiayassy of Aly Pasha. The Greek
quarter is separated from the Turkish. The bishop
tov TaXavTiov, who is a suffragan of the metropolitan
of Athens, is at the head of the community, and
has a tolerable house at the Episkopi, standing in
a garden of oranges, lemons, and other fruit trees,
which, although a mere wilderness, is the best in the
1 TdXavra, TaXdvnov.

172 LOCRIS. [chap.
place, and is considered as something extraordinary
in this country. The plain is very fertile, but little
cultivated for want of hands. The marshy parts to
wards the sea yield kalambokki, the rest ofthe plain
excellent wheat, vines, from which a tolerable wine
is made, and a few olive trees, which succeed per
fectly. The mero-kamato, or price of daily labour,
is the same as at Athens, Livadhia, &c; namely,
forty paras a-day, with an oke of wine. The dis
trict contains between thirty and forty villages, the
greater part of which are very small, and but half
inhabited, many of the people having migrated
to the districts of Livadhia and Athens since Aly
Pasha has possessed the place. The mukata is
now in the hands of his son Vely, who is endea
vouring to induce the emigrants to return, by pro
mising to remit a part of the impositions. The town
stands entirely in the plain, but immediately at
the foot of a steep and lofty mountain called Rodha,
which is connected with Khlomo, and a branch of
which intercepts the view of the south-eastern ex
tremity of the gulf, while an advanced ridge of the
mountain called Xerovuni obstructs it to the north
ward, leaving the plain only, which is included be
tween them, visible from the town, and beyond it the
Gulf of Talanda, the Euhoic channel, and the cul
tivated region round Rovies in Euhaza, on either side
of which, but particularly to the southward, that coast
consists of steep high cliffs. The island of Atalanta1,
1 'H 'AraXdvrri Be vrjaog Kara Peloponnesian war, Atalanta,
'Owovvra IBpvrai, bpwvvpog nj then a desert island, was for-
irpb Tijg 'ArTiKrjg. — Strabo, p. tified by the Athenians as a
425. In the first year of the place of offence against Locris,

XIII. J LOCRIS. 173
now called Talandonisi, which is separated by a
narrow frith from the Boeotian shore, and extends
into the centre of the gulf, shelters the Skala, or
port of Talanda, which is an hour distant from the
town to the east ; there are at present two three-
masted vessels lying in the harbour.
It is evident that the modern town has derived
its appellation from the island, for the loss of the
initial vowel is common in the transition of ancient
names into modern, and thus Talanda affords one
among many instances in Greece of a preservation
of name with a change of position.
Many fragments of Hellenic buildings are dis
persed about the town. Among them I remarked
a frize of Ionic dentils at the fountain in the Greek
quarter, and some Ionic capitals in two ruined
churches; a marble chair in a church on the out
side of the town : in that of St. Panteleemon a
broken inscription, which has been published by
Meletius, and in that of St. Theodore another,
which, as well as the former, contains the name of
Opus. But notwithstanding these remains, and
that Talanda occupies an advantageous and agree
able situation, abounding in water, it is certain
that Opus was not exactly in this spot. The dis
tance of Talanda is much too great from the sea to
correspond with the testimony of Strabo and Livy,
the former of whom places Opus at a distance of
and of defence for Euboea a great inundation of the sea,
(Thucyd. 1. 2, c. 32. Diodor. caused by the same earthquakes
1. 12, c. 44.) In the sixth year which prevented the Lacedae-
of the war, a part of the Athe- monians from invading Attica.
nian works were destroyed by — Thucyd. 1. 3, c. 89.

174 LOCRIS. [chap.
fifteen stades from the shore, the latter only a mile.
The mountain, moreover, which rises immediately
behind Talanda, steep and unbroken, affords no
site for an Acropolis, nor are there any traces of
ancient walls to be found at Talanda.
At Kardhenitza, on the other hand, a village
situated an hour to the south-eastward of Talanda,
on the side of the hill which rises from that corner
of the plain, and just above the inner extremity of
the Opontian gulf, there exist the remains of an
ancient city in a position more elevated than
Talanda, and at a distance from the sea cor
responding to the fifteen stades of Strabo. On
the ridge above Kardhenitza stands a single tower,
partly Hellenic, and conspicuous from all the plain
of Talanda as well as from other parts of the
adjacent country. It was well placed for com
manding the road leading from the Opontia into
Bceotia round the eastern side of Mount Khlomo.
The inner extremity of the Opontian Gulf below
Kardhenitza is a shallow bay bounded by a high
peninsula on the north-western side ; and on its
opposite shore, joined by a river, which flows from
a village called Proskyna, and which, as it corre
sponds to the Platanus of Pausanias, may guide us
to the positions of Corseia, Cyrtones, and Halae.
Strabo confirms the position of Opus at Kardhe
nitza, by remarking that Cynus, the ettiveiov or
emporium of Opus, was sixty stades distant from
that city, on the cape which terminated the Opon
tian Gulf1; and that a fertile plain lay between
1 'O b* 'Qwovg .... arjg wEpl TTEVTEKaiBEKa araBlovg,
.... dirkxEi rrjg daXda- tov Be etvive'iov koi kl;riKovra'

XIII. J LOCRIS. 175
the two places, thus leaving little doubt that Cynus
occupied the north-western cape of the gulf, where
at the distance of about a mile to the north of the
village of Livanates, is a tower called Paleopyrgo,
and some Hellenic remains, distant about eight
miles, in a direct line from Kardhenitza. On the
heights above Livanates inland are the ruins of a
Hellenic fortress, which seems to have been in
tended for the protection of Cynus towards Ela
teia, in the same manner as the tower before-men
tioned protected Opus towards Orchomenus. Such
having been the positions of Cynus and Opus, it
is evident that Livy has given an incorrect idea
of that of Cynus, in his narrative of the cam
paign of the year B. C. 207, when the Romans and
Attalus king of Pergamus, were engaged in assist
ing the iEtolians against Philip. He relates, that
when Attalus occupied Opus, Sulpicius, with the
Roman fleet, anchored at Cynus, on his return from
an unsuccessful attempt upon Chalcis, and his words
are, " Romanus celeriter abstitit incepto, classem-
que inde ad Cynum Locridis (emporium id est urbis
Opuntiorum mille passuumamari sitae) trajecit1,"
giving the idea that Cynus was on the shore imme
diately below Opus, instead of being sixty stades
distant. He had probably misapprehended Poly-
bius, whose narrative he followed.
Yivvog o' karl to eitiveiov, &Kpa _\v(ioiag, oirov rd Osppd tov
TEppirifrvaa tov 'Ottovvtiov 'HpaKXkovg, iropdpai BiEtpybpE-
koXivov araBliav bvra iTEpl tet- vog araBiwv E^fiKovra Kal eko-
rapaKovra. M£ra£,v Be 'Ottovv- tov. — Strabo, p. 425.
roe Kal JLivov tteBIov EvBaipoV 1 Liv. 1. 28, c. 6, 7.
Kelrai Be Kara AtBrj^bv rijg
13

176 LOCRIS. [chap.
Rovies, which is on the coast of Euhoea, nearly
opposite to Cynus, is a small town partly inhabited
by Turks, but chiefly by Greeks. Here are some
remains of the walls of Orobioe, of which Rovies is
the modern form by the usual changes. Lipso in
dicates, by a similar corruption, the site of iEdep-
sus, and its hot baths, which were sacred to Her
cules, are said to be still called rd Qtppd. The dis
tance from Cynus seems correctly stated by Strabo.
The eastern Locrians, the only Locri mentioned
by Homer, and who were all under the command
of Ajax, son of Oileus, are described by the poet
as " the Locrians who dwelt opposite to Eubcea1 :"
at a later period they were divided into two parts
by a narrow branch of Phocis, containing the dis
trict of Daphnus, which thus caused Phocis to
extend from the Corinthiac to the Maliac Gulf.
Daphnus, however, falling to ruin, and its lands
having been assigned to the Opontii, the Locrians
then occupied the whole shore from Thermopylae to
Halae in Bceotia. If Strabo is correct, Daphnus
might be exactly recognized by its distance of
ninety stades from Cynus, and of one hundred
and twenty from Elateia, as well as by its har
bour 2. Between it and Cynus was Alope 3. Cne-
1 AoKpwv, oi vaiovai irkprjv lEprjg Ev/3ot'jje
O? Kvvov t kvkpovT 'Ottoevto. te KaXXt'apoV te
Hrjaadv te JjKap(j>nv te Kal AiyEtac; iparEivdg,
Tapiprjv te Qpovwv te, Boaypt'ov a.p<j>\ pkedpa'
Tw ci' apa TEoaapaKOvra pkXaivai vfJEg ettovto.
II. B. v. 535.
2 Strabo, pp. 416, 424, 426. and citadel on an insulated hill
Plin. H. N. 1. 4, c. 7. near the shore were found by
3 The ruins of a small town Sir William Geli at a time dis-

XIII. J

LOCRIS.

177

mides was a fortress, the situation of which may
be recognized near the modern Nikoraki by its
position on a projection of the coast opposite to the
islands anciently named Lichades, and the Eubcean
promontory Cenaeum \ The site of Thronium

tance beyond the Cape of Cy- rrtv pEobyaiav. El0' 6 Bociypioc
nus, which, according to his irorapbg EKBlBwaiv b wapap'pEwv
rate of travelling, agrees with to Qpoviov' MaVr/v B' kirovo-
fifty stades. There can be fid^ovaiv avrov' iari Be x£tf <*p-
little doubt, therefore, of its povg, war dj3p6xoig kpfialvEiv
being, as he supposed, the site rote noaiv clXXorE Be Kal BiirXE-

of Alope.1 Mfra <5e Aaipvovvra Kvjj-
piBEg xwpl°v kpvfivbv, oaov ara-
Blovg EtKoeri liXEvaavri' KaO' b
Kal to _\r)vaiov ek rrjg Eu/3o/ac:
avn'/CEirai, aKpa (iXkirovaa irpbg
lairkpav Kal tov M.aXika koX-
¦7TOJ', xopSjuii BiEipyopkvr] axE-
Bbv EiKOaiaraBio). Tavra ci'
rjBri tu>v '_\iziKvripiBiiM)v karl
AoKpSiv. 'Evraufla Kal al Ai-
XaBsg KaXoifiEvai rpE~ig vrjaoi,
TrpoKEivrai, dirb At'xa rovvopa
ixovaaC Kal aXXat B' Eialv kv
t<o Xex^evti irapairXb), cig ekov-
TEg irapaXEiiropEv . Msra Be
iiKoai araBlovg airb KvrjfiiBiiiv
Xt/Jrjv, vwEp oil KE~nai to Qpo
viov kv araBioig ro'ig "laoig Kara

Bpov 'iaxEiv irXdrog. Meto c)e
raSra —KapijiEia, araBioig vitEp-
KEipkvr) rrjg OaXdrrrig Bkm, Bik-
Xovaa Be Qpoviov rpiaKovra,
kXaTTOai Be piKpu * * * *
* * * E7r£tra N/icaia Kal al
QEpfubuvXai. — Strabo, p. 426.
From a fragment of iEschy-
lus, cited by Strabo in another
place, (p. 447,) it would seem
that on one of the islands there
was a monument of Lichas,
who was fabled to have been
hurled into the sea by Her
cules, when suffering from the
effects of the poisoned gar
ment. The following are the
bnes of iEschylus : —

JLvfloiBa Kapirr)v apipl Krjvaiov Aiog
'AKrrjv, kut avrov tv\jl$ov adXiov Ai'xa-
Strabo here asserts, that in quakes to which the island and
the word Euboida the poet adjacent coast of Bceotia are
alludes to a city Eubcea, de- very subject. The word aKrrj,
stroyed by one of the earth- (peninsula,) is well illustrated
VOL. II. N

178 LOCRIS. [chap.
was ascertained by Meletius, who found above the
village Romani, at a place named Paleokastro,
where some remains of the city still exist, a dedi
catory inscription of the council and demus of the
Thronienses \ The situation is at the distance
from the sea which Strabo mentions, on the bank
of a broad torrent perfectly corresponding to the
Boagrius, which flowed by Thronium 2, and which
is described by Strabo as sometimes dry and some
times flowing with a stream two plethra in width.
Thronium was the chief town of the Epicnemidii,
where the coins with the legend AOK.EIIIK. or
AOKP. EI1IKNA. were probably struck.
Thirty stades from Thronium, towards Nicaea
and Thermopylae, stood another Locrian town,
Scarpheia, ten stades from the sea, and something
less than thirty from another place of which the
name is lost. It appears from Pausanias that
Scarpheia was in the ordinary route from Elateia
to Thermopylae by Thronium3, and equally so from
Livy, who states that Quinctius, before the battle
of Cynoscephalae, marched from Elateia by Thro
nium and Scarpheia to Heracleia 4. By this cir
cumstance, therefore, and by the numbers of
Strabo, the exact position of Scarpheia is ascer
tained to have been between the villages 'Andera
by a view of the promontory, 'AXKivba Ar)pr)Tplov
which is much more nearly — Melet. Geog. vol. ii. p. 325.
an island than the maps have 8vo. Ven.
hitherto made it. 2 II. B. v. 533. Plin. H.
1 'AyaOq. Tix?. "Apxovroe N. 1. 4, c. 7. Pausan. Eliac.
'AXe£,iov, Tpapparkog Eu^pctvo- pr. c. 22.
pog, Tapla 'Apiarkvovg, eSo£,e rip 3 Pausan. Achaic. c. 15.
fiovXif Kal 7<3 Bapy Qpovikwv * Liv. 1. 33, c. 3.
13

XIII. J LOCRIS. 179
and Molo, which being fixed, it will follow that the
deficient name in the text of Strabo is either Nicaea,
of which the probable position has already been in
dicated, or the town which stood at Pundonitza ;
for to either of them the something less than thirty
stades would be applicable. If the latter place was
intended, the deficient word may have been Tarphe,
or Pharygae, the former of which was the Homeric
name, and the latter that attached in the time of
Strabo to a town which then possessed a temple of
Juno Pharygaea, and was supposed to be a colony
of Argos. Tarphe was the only Homeric town in
Locris then inhabited ; and Pundonitza, from its
strength, its fertile plain, and the relative import
ance and convenience of its position, is more likely
than any other to have preserved its inhabitants
then, as it does to this day. Its territory perfectly
corresponds to the well-wooded and productive dis
trict which Strabo ascribes to Tarphe x ; and the
word Pharygae 2 is well adapted to a situation like
that of Pundonitza, in the midst of the passes lead
ing over Mount Cnemis into Phocis. Although the
other Homeric towns of the Locri were no longer
in existence, their sites were known 3. Augeiae was
1 'H Tdpfr) KEirai k(j>' vipovg, 2 From fcipvyH, — guttur,
Biixovaa  ara- fauces.
Biovg e'ikooi, x^>Pav & EVKapirov 3 tbv Be "Oprjpog pEfivrrrai,
Kal EvBEvBpov £X£'' ybr) yap Kal KaXXiapog jxev ovketi o'lKEirai
avrrr dirb tov Saaovg iivopaarai' ... . ti tteBiov KaXovaiv
KaXftrat Be vvv $apuyai; 'IBpv- ovrtog aVo tov avp^>E^r\KOTOg TiZ
rat o' avrodi "Hpag &apvyaiag roiry EvnpoTog yap kan. OvB'
hpbv, airb rrjg kv <!>apvyaig r; k^rjg Be _\r\aaa kan Bpvfj.uiBrjg
rrjg 'ApyEiag' Kal Br) Kal diroiKoi Tig rowog' ovBe al AvyEial t&v
<paaiv Eivai 'ApyEiiov. — Strabo, rr)v X*°Pav 'X01"" ^Kapipulg. —
p. 426. Strabo, p. 426.
N 2

180 locris. [chap.
near Scarpheia, and Bessa and Calliarus were
names descriptive of the places to which they were
attached : the former among the woods of Mount
Cnemis, the latter in a district well suited to the
plough \ and hence, probably, in some part of the
elevated plain which lies between Pundonitza and
Mount Cnemis. Calliarus was perhaps the place
twenty stades from Tarphe, of which the name is
wanting in Strabo.
The most difficult question in the geography of
this part of the country, is that of the ancient
appellation of the peak, now called Khlomo, the
most conspicuous of the secondary summits of
this part of Greece, and presenting itself on all
sides as a mountain which could not have failed to
have had some celebrity among the ancients.
Was it the proper Cnemis, and were the ridges
which lie between it and Callidromus, considered
only subordinate portions of the same mountain ?
some of the best authorities support this opinion.
Anciently there was no distinction of Opontii and
Epicnemidii, nor are the latter mentioned by Homer
or Herodotus or Thucydides or Polybius, when
speaking of the Eastern Locrians, of whom Opus
was considered the metropolis 2. Even Strabo,
1 EvypoTOg.
2 KXvrav AoKpuiv . . . jxarkp' dyXaoBEvBpov.
Pindar. Olymp. 9, v. 31.
'O Be 'Oirovg kail prjTpbiroXig XS>v tUv jrspt QsppoirvXag kiri-
KaddivEp Kal to kwiypappa BrjXoT. yEypaufiivov npbg rJ 7roXwa)'-
rb kiri rrj irpirTtj twv ttevte arrj- cpta>.
TovaBE irork (j>difj.EVOvg virsp 'EXXaooc aVrt'a Mr'jBwv
Mr/rpoVoXte Aoiopwj' Evdvvbporv 'OiroEig
KevOei  Strabo, p. 425.

XIII. J LOCRIS. 181
from whom the distinction is chiefly derived, in one
place describes Opus as the metropolis of the Epic
nemidii 1, and the same is confirmed by Pliny and
Stephanus 2. If Pliny is incorrect in adding that
the river Cephissus flowed through the Epicnemidii
to the sea, he shews at least that he protracted their
boundaries quite to Bceotia, which accords with
Mount Khlomo, and not with any mountain to the
north-westward of it. Pausanias, though he has
not employed the word Epicnemidii on any occa
sion, but has applied to all the Eastern Locrians
the name Hypocnemidii, or Locrians under Mount
Cnemis, includes among them the Opontii, as he
shows in alluding to the mention of the Opontii by
Herodotus, but more particularly in his description
of the bounds of Phocis 3. " The Phocians," he
says, at the beginning of his Phocica, " extend to
the sea opposite to the Peloponnesus and towards
Bceotia, from Cirrha, the port of Delphi, to the
city Anticyra. But towards the Maliac Gulf they
are prevented from being a maritime people by the
Hypocnemidii, who border on Phocis in that direc
tion ; these are the Scarphenses beyond Elateia,
and above Hyampolis and Abae, those who possess
Opus and its port Cynus." It is probable that
Pausanias here specifies Scarpheia, because it was
the only town in that part of Locris subsisting in his
time. From these several testimonies the inference
would not be unreasonable, that the whole moun
tainous ridge of Eastern Locris was called Cnemis,
1 'Oirovg r) rSrv AoKp&v prj- ' Plin. H. N. 1. 4, c. 7. —
rpoiriiXig t&v 'VjTziKvrjpiBiiov . — Stephan. in 'OiroEig.
Strabo, p. 416. J Pausan. Phocic. c. 1, 8,
20.— Herodot. 1. 7, c. 203.

182 LOCRIS. [chap.
and consequently that Khlomo, the highest, and
by far the most remarkable summit, was the proper
Cnemis. Upon examining the places themselves,
however, there is great difficulty in agreeing to
such an opinion. Mount Khlomo is so completely
separated from the ridges of Fondana and Grados by
the valley leading from Hyampolis into the Opontian
plain, that it cannot be conceived that the two moun
tains were ever considered identical, or that thev
had not some separate denomination. Strabo more
than once informs us, that the district of Daphnus,
on the shore of the Euboic strait which was after
wards ascribed to the Opontii, belonged in more
ancient times to Phocis ', and thus separated the
Opontii bordering on Phocis and Bceotia, from the
Epicnemidii bordering on the (Etaei and Malienses.
Now it is impossible to suppose that the proper
Cnemis should at any time have been excluded
from the Epicnemidii as distinguished from the
Opontii, which it would have been when Daphnus
belonged to Phocis, if we identify Cnemis with
Khlomo. The position of the fortress of Cnemides,
moreover, exactly at the foot of the central part
of the mountains, which extend from the plain
of Pundonitza to that of Talanda, is a strong
proof that this was the real Mount Cnemis, which
we may easily believe to have been sometimes
considered as comprehending the district of Opus
within its denomination, because it stretches into
the plain of Opus, and because Cynus, the naval
dependency of Opus, was in fact situated on its
eastern extremity. On the other hand, it would
be very difficult to believe that Mount Khlomo was
1 Strabo, p. 416, 425.

XIII. J BCEOTIA. 183
ever entirely included within the boundaries of
Locris, as it is surrounded on every side, except the
north, by Phocic and Boeotian districts. Little can
be adduced on either side of this question from the
remark of Strabo, (p. 425), that Mount Cnemis was
fifty stades distant from Cynus, since we are at
liberty to make the measurement from the site of
Cynus either to the nearest part of Mount Khlomo,
or to the mountain of Grados, and in either case
it will not be found very incorrect. So doubtful,
however, is the text of Strabo in this place, that he
may very possibly have meant by fifty stades, the
distance, not to Mount Cnemis, but to Alope.
Upon the whole, I have little hesitation in con
cluding that the maritime summits lying between
Pundonitza and Cynus, together perhaps with that
more inland, named Fondana, were the proper
Cnemis. Khlomo perhaps bore the same appella
tion as a Boeotian town described by Pausanias
as built upon a lofty mountain, which from the
tenor of his narrative could hardly have been any
other than Khlomo. After having informed us
that Holmones and Hyettus were villages 1 of the
ancient Orchomenia, the former twelve stades from
Copas, the latter seven stades from Holmones, and
that Hyettus still contained a temple, in which the
sick sought remedies for their diseases, and where
the Deity was worshipped under the shape of a rude
stone, — he proceeds to remark, that about twenty
stades beyond Hyettus stood Cyrtones 2, more
anciently called Cyrtone 3. "It is built," he adds,
1 Kwpai. Pausan. Boeot. 2 KvprwvEg.
c. 24. ' Kvprwvrj.

184 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
" upon a lofty mountain ', and contains a grove,
and temple of Apollo, with upright statues of Apollo
and Diana, a source of cold water issuing from a
rock, a temple of Nymphs at the source, and a
small grove of planted trees. " After having crossed
the mountain from Cyrtones, occurred the small
town Corseia, half a stade below which there was
a grove of wild trees, chiefly the holly-oak 2, and
a small statue of Hermes in the open air. In the
plain below, the river Platanus joined the sea, on
the right of which was the small maritime city Halae,
the last of those belonging to the Boeotians on the
sea which separated Locris from Euboea. Consider
ing the position of the Orchomenia in general with
relation to that of Copae, now Topolia, and of the
river Platanus near the maritime frontier of Bceotia
at Halae, we cannot but infer that Holmones, Hy
ettus and Cyrtone, lay in a north-western direction
from Copae, that the road to Corseia crossed Mount
Khlomo not far to the eastward of the peak, and
that as this summit is the only mountain in this
part of Bceotia meriting the description of an opog
vylri\6v, the city Cyrtone was very near it on the
eastern side. Whether any ruins still exist to con
firm this opinion, remains to be explored. Corseia
is noticed by Demosthenes and Diodorus as an
important fortress of Bceotia 3 ; in the Phocic war
it fell into the hands of the Phocians, together with
Orchomenus and Coroneia. I am informed that
ruins corresponding in situation to the description
of Pausanias still exist near Proskyna., from the
1 $Kiorai Be kiri opovg v\jjt)Xov. 3 Demosth. de Leg. Fals. —
' irp'ivoi. Diodor. 1. 16, c. 58.

XIII. J BCEOTIA. 185
heights around which is collected the river, which
I suppose to have been the Platanus.
Between the mouth of this river, and the shore
below Opus, a large stream issues from the moun
tain, and joins the bay of Armyra, to the east
ward of the salt sources, from which that harbour
takes its name. In a country where subterraneous
rivers so often occur, we may readily suspect
this stream to originate in the Cephissic basin,
which has no discharge for its superfluous waters
but through the mountains which separate it from
the Euhoic frith. Now it is remarkable, that
Strabo notices a chasm near Orchomenus, which
absorbed the waters of the Melas 1, and that in
illustration of these words of the geographer, there
is, to the northward of Orchomenus, between Tza
mali and Xeropyrgo, a bay similar to that at the
north-eastern end of the lake, where the Cephissus
begins its subterraneous course. I have already
stated, that the northern Melas, instead of flowing
like the southern to the Cephissus, takes from its
very sources a direction entirely different, and
which, although I could not trace it through the
marshes, tends exactly towards the bay above men
tioned ; there is a great probability therefore that
the stream finds its way through the marshes, and
flowing to the end of the bay, there enters a Kata
vothra, of which the emissory is the river which
issues between Opus and the mouth of the Pla-
1 TEvkadai Be (jiaai Kal Kara kvravda to iXog to ipvov tov
'OpxppEvov x<&apa KaL Bk^aadai avX-qriKov KaXapov. — Strabo,
tov MkXava irorafibv tov pkovru p. 407.
c!ta rrjg 'AXiapriag Kal iroiovvra

186 LOCRIS. [chap.
tanus ; for this point is exactly at the end of the
shortest line through the mountains, from the ex
tremity of the bay of the Cephissis near Tzamali.
In summer, the question might perhaps be re
solved, even by a distant view from the heights of
Orchomenus, without descending into the unhealthy
marshes. An actual inspection is the more neces
sary, as the testimony of Strabo regarding the
chasm of the Melas is not free from suspicion : for
he describes the Melas as flowing through the Ha-
liartia, which being at the opposite end of the
Cephissic basin, either shows Strabo to have been
very ignorant of the locality, or his text to be here,
as in so many other places, very much corrupted.
Dec. 11. — After employing the morning in a
tour around Talanda, I proceed at 1.30, on my
return to Livadhia, by the way of Parapotamii,
and the Bceoto-Phocic straits. At 2.20 leave the
road to Vogdhani on the left, and cross into the
little vale of Purnari, which is connected with
that of Valtesi, though a low ridge immediately
above the latter village separates the course of the
waters, flowing respectively to the Opontian bay
and to the Cephissus. At 3, leaving Valtesi a
little on the left, we ascend a cultivated cham
paign, which is separated from the valley of
Khubavo and Belissi by the rocky mountain on
the western side of the pass of Hyampolis ; and
on the other side is bounded by the rugged
heights extending to Elateia, and in the direction
of Cnemis. In the midst of this elevated valley
stands the small village of Kalapodhi, where we
arrive at 3.25, having stopt a few minutes at a

XIII. J LOCRIS. 187
ruined church on the side of the road, composed
almost entirely of wrought stones and other Hel
lenic remains, among which are some portions of
frizes and architraves ; a little farther two pieces
of a large Doric column, 4 feet 2 inches in dia
meter, lie nearly buried in the ground. These
dimensions indicate the former existence of some
large building in this place, for it is not easy to
believe that such masses could have been brought
hither from the temple of Abae, which is 4 miles
distant, still less from that of Minerva Cranaea,
near Elateia, which is at a much greater distance
and separated by rugged hills.
In the church-yard at Kalapodhi lies a sepul
chral stone, bearing the common ornament of a
cockle-shell between two roses, and inscribed with
the word 'ApvvavSpoc, in beautiful characters. Pos
sibly the district around Kalapodhi was that of
the Locrian town Naryx, noted for having been
the birth-place of Ajax, son ofthe Oileus ; for it is
evident, from the description of the coast of Locris
by Strabo, that Naryx was not near the sea : ; and
there are two historical occurrences recorded by
Diodorus, in which the reference to Naryx is well
suited to this position. In the year b. c. 395, the
same in which Lysander was slain at Haliartus,
Ismenias, commander of the Boeotians, undertook
an expedition against Phocis, and defeated the
Fhocians near INaryx ot Locris ; whence it appears^
that INaryx was near the frontier of Phocis. In the
year 352, Phayllus, who commanded the Phocians,
and their allies, and who not long before had been
1 Strabo, p. 425. Stephan. in Na'pu£ and '0£dXat.

188 phocis. [chap.
defeated by the Boeotians near Orchomenus, again
on the Cephissus, and a third time near Coroneia,
invaded the Epicnemidii, took several towns, occu
pied and_JostLNaryx^ and_adyanced to Abae, where
he was surprized by the Boeotians, who, elated by
this success, entered and laid waste Phocis, — but
in- attempting to relieve Naryx, which was again
besieged by Phayllus, were defeated by him. The
town was in consequence taken by Phayllus, who
soon afterwards died \ The Doric column may
have belonged to the principal temple of theNarycii,
where Ajax doubtless received heroic honours.
Having lost 10 minutes at Kalapodhi, we pro
ceed along the valley, and arrive at 3.47 at a
rugged ridge, where begins the descent into the
plain of Elateia. Dhragomano and Lefta. are not
seen, on account of a projection of the mountains
oh the right, but Turkokhorio is visible. At 4.15
we arrive at Sfaka, a small hamlet on the descent,
and from thence, after having halted 10 minutes,
descend into the plain at the point of the rocky
mountain, which beginning from hence, stretches
eastward to Vogdhani, where it forms the western
side of the pass of Hyampolis ; many copious
springs issue from the mountain, and not only
jorm a long lake at the foot of it, but make this
whole corner of the Elqtir pJajn marshy during
the_greater part ofthe year. A pavpd canap^y
leadingto Lefta "and Turkokhorio passes above
the springs along the foot of the mountain, which
to the very summit is a mere rock. The marshy
edgesofThe lake begin a little below Sfaka. and
1 Diodor. ]. 14. c. 82; 1. 16, c. 37, 38.

xiii. J phocis. 189
the lake is prolonged round the point of the
riiounfam as far ag opposite Merali ', where a
stream issues from it, which, as I before remarked,
joins the Cephissus, in the Stena ; a part of the
water is conducted by a canal to some mills be
tween Merali and Khubavo.
We arrive opposite Merali at 5.5, but are obliged
to make a detour in order to cross the canal and
river, the latter by a bridge. The best lodging
which the village affords, is a long cottage of the
usual kind, but in this instance so filled with
oxen, horses, asses, bags of wheat, and baskets of
kalambokki, that with difficulty I find space suffi
cient in it. The wheat is the produce of the
vpspoKapaTo2, or day-labourers' share of the harvest,
which is a kuveli of 22 okes per diem, now selling"
atLiyaiJhia for 5-|- piastres; to this is added~an
oke of wine. The wages in the cultivation of vines
and cotton are a piastre a day and an oke of wine,
— -the ordinary price of day-labour in Greece. In"
kalambokki it is customary for the labourers to
take a tenth of the produce. Merali stands on
the side of around low hill, which, though now
in pasture7"consists of a very fertile and cultivable
soil, without any rock^ It is separated from the
height of Krevasara, which is lofty and rocky, by
a level of about three fourths of a mile, through
which flows the Cephissus. The river approaches
the south-eastern corner of the latter height, where
it is crossed by a bridge in the main road from
Zituni by Turkokhorio to Livadhia. In a line
1 MEpaXjj. 2 Vulgarly, fiEpoKaparo.

190 phocis. [chap.
with the hill of Krevasara, and separated from it
by a narrow plain, rises the lofty insulated conical
height, which I have already remarked (Nov. 30)
as being in face of Bissikeni, towards Krevasara ;
this height ends in a low summit, crowned with
one of those towers of which I before remarked,
that there appears to have been a system of them
pervading Bceotia and Phocis. A castle of the mid
dle ages, or perhaps of the same date as the towers,
crowned the extreme point of the Edylian ridge,
from whence to the opposite advanced heights of
Parnassus the distance is about half a mile. This
is the strongest part of the Bceto-Phocic pass. In
the narrow level stands the khan of the Kady on
the right bank of the Cephissus, opposite to which
the Kineta, or river which issues from the lake of
Sfaka, joins the Cephissus just under the extremity
of the aforesaid rocky point, upon which stands
the ruined castle.
Dec. 12. — Leaving Merali at 9, and re-passing
the bridge and canal, I ride up in 15 minutes to
Khubavo, which stands on the foot of the rocky
mountain, in the opening of the valley rising to
Vogdhani, immediately opposite to Belissi ', on
the foot of Mount Edylium. These are all small
hamlets of about 20 houses, each with a pyrgo
for the Spahi, who is generally an Albanian.
While inquiring at Khubavo concerning a trea
sure of ancient medals, said to have been found
by one of the inhabitants of that place, the sudden
appearance of one of these Spahis, with hanjar
1 MirEXttriri.

xm.] phocis. 191
and pistols in his girdle, puts an end to the en
quiry, as none of the villagers dare answer such
questions in his presence. Two or three of them,
however, follow me in crossing the plain to the
Paleo-kastro, and show me a large quantity of
small gilt copper coins, of the lower empire, which
were a part of the treasure.
The Paleo-kastro consists of the remains of a
castle of lower times, inclosing a small table sum
mit to the westward of Belissi. This height is
connected with the foot of the extremity of Mount
Edylium by a low ridge of rock, over which passes
the road from Vogdhani to the bridge of the Ce
phissus, near the khan of the Kady. The hill is
rocky all around, but the level summit is ploughed
and cultivated. Among the remains of the modern
castle are a few pieces of a Hellenic wall of the
polygonal kind. There can be little doubt that
these are remains of the city of the Parapotamii,
the position, as I before remarked, agreeing in
every respect with its description by Theopompus
and Strabo l.
Leaving the Paleo-kastro at 11, and passing
over the ridge which joins it to the mountain, I
descend to a ford of the Cephissus a little below
the khan, and having crossed the river, follow its
right bank : at 11.30 cross by a wooden bridge a
canal derived from the Mavro-nero, and three
minutes farther the united stream of the Mavro
nero and Platania by a stone bridge ; the Cephis
sus being then only a few paces on the left. Soon
1 Ap. Strabon. p. 424. V. sup. p. 97. 99.

192 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
afterwards the road quits the river, and crosses
the plain in the direction of Kapurna, where I
arrive at 12.8, and in the afternoon return to
Livadhia. Placed, as the valley of Chaeroneia is, at the
entrance of the extensive and fertile plains of
Bceotia, and most conveniently situated for ob
serving all the entrances into them from the side
of Phocis, it often became the scene of military
operations, though, unfortunately for history, the
most remarkable of them did not occur until after
the time of the best historians. In the year B.C.
447, Chaeroneia was taken by Tolmides the Athe
nian, just before his defeat and death at Coroneia1.
During the Sacred or Phocic war it was attempted
by Onomarchus the Phocian without success, was
taken by Phalaecus his son, who succeeded to the
command ofthe Phocians on the death of Phayllus,
and was speedily retaken by the Boeotians2. But no
particulars are related on these occasions which can
be illustrated by a view of the locality. Nor is that
celebrated battle, which extended the Macedonian
power over all Greece, and influenced the destinies
of the civilized world for the ensuing two centuries,
described in a manner more satisfactory either by
Diodorus or by Plutarch, probably from the want
of contemporary accounts of an event which Was
already ancient in the time of those authors, espe
cially the latter, who might otherwise have had a
good opportunity of enlarging on the details of the

1 Thucyd. 1. 1, c. 113. 2 Diodor. 1. 16, i=. 33. 39.
Diodor. 1. 12, c. 6.

XIII. J BCEOTIA. 193
action, and of illustrating them by his knowledge
of the topography of his native place. Of the battle
between the Roman forces and the army of Mithra-
dates, which occurred 250 years later, Plutarch
had the means of leaving us a much fuller de
scription1. Sylla had taken Athens when Taxilles,
entering Greece from the northward with a nume
rous army, and encamping in the plains of Elateia,
left his opponent only a choice of difficulties. On
the one hand the chariots of the enemy and the
superiority of his cavalry, rendered it hazardous
to meet him in the plains of Bceotia : on the other,
Attica was unable long to afford supplies, espe
cially when Archelaus, occupying Munychia with
his fleet, had prevented their arrival by sea. The
more powerful motive prevailing, Sylla moved into
Bceotia, and encamped at a place in the plain of
Chaeroneia, called Patronis. Here he was joined by
Hortensius, who made his way from Thessaly by
a circuitous route through Mount Parnassus to
Tithorea, where he came into contact with the
enemy's forces, but having resisted their attacks
during the day, succeeded in the following night
in descending through difficult passes2 to the place
where Sylla was expecting him. I have already
shown the probability that the bye road by which
Hortensius avoided the Asiatic army in the Elatic
plains, was that which I followed from Velitza by
Bissikeni into the northern valley of Dhavlia, and
not far below which, near Khasnesi, are the sources
of the Mavronero. Here being copiously supplied
1 Plutarch, in Syll. 2 rdig Bvax^piaig Kara/lag.
VOL. II. O

194 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
with water, and defended towards the enemy by
the pass of Parapotamii, Sylla found a safe and
convenient place of encampment, until he was re
inforced by Hortensius. He then advanced towards
the enemy, and took a position on a fertile woody
hill, in the midst of the Elatic plains named Phi-
lobceotus, at the foot of which there was water 1,—
a description which seems to agree with the re
markable insulated conical height between Bissi
keni and the Cephissus. The Romans probably
occupied both that height and the hill of Kreva
sara, as in that position they were not only masters
of any sources of water there may be at the foot of
those heights, but were near the Cephissus, their
proximity to which is evident from what follows.
As the Roman army consisted only of 15000 in
fantry and 1500 cavalry, while the enemy amounted
to six or eight times that number, the former kept
close within their intrenchments, when the Asiatics
drew out their forces to display their strength ; but
when they proceeded to straggle over the country,
destroying Panopeus, and pillaging Lebadeia and
the oracular temple of Trophonius, Sylla became
very desirous of engaging. In order to inspire
his troops with an inclination to fight, he first
imposed some severe labours upon them, such as
cutting canals in the plain, and turning the channel
of the Cephissus; and when they began to be tired
of this employment, pointed out to them a position
1 fiovvbv ek pkaiov karSiTa highly praised the beauty of
tS>v 'JLXariKHJv tteBIuv EvyEiav this hill in his Memoirs. Plu-
Kal dpfiXaiprj Kal irapd Tr)v tarch. ibid.
pit^av vBiop 'ixovra. Sylla

XIII. J BCEOTIA. ]95
which he wished to occupy. It was a hill on which
formerly stood " the Acropolis of the abandoned
city of the Parapotamii — a stony height surrounded
with a precipice, and separated only from Mount
Edylium by the river Assus, which at the foot of
the hill fell into the Cephissus, and rendered the
position very strong1." In this passage there is a
difficulty. I have already remarked that the testi
mony of Theopompus, of Strabo, and of Plutarch
himself, shows that Paleokastro is the ancient Pa
rapotamii, and the rocky summit above it Edylium ;
in which case there is no stream which can corre
spond with the Assus but that named Kineta, which
flows from the marsh of Sfaka, and is joined by the
torrent of the vale of Khubavo. This river, how
ever, does not divide the hill of Paleokastro from
Mount Edylium, as Plutarch leads us to expect,
but leaves it on the left, and joins the Cephissus a
little below the hill of Paleokastro, which is in fact
a low extremity of the mountain itself. The
Romans drove away a body of Chalcaspidae, who
were moving to the defence of the hill of Parapo
tamii, and took possession of it. Archelaus then
moved against Chaeroneia, but the city was saved
by the timely arrival of one of the Roman legions
accompanied by the Chaeronenses in Sylla's army;
and Sylla having crossed the Assus, proceeded
1 BEi^ag avrolg Trjv irporEpov b" ' Aaaog ettexei pkiov, elra avp-
pkv yEVopkvr\v ciKpoiroXiv tUv ttitttwv virb rfjv pi^av avrrjv Ttj>
UapawoTa/iluv, t6te B' dvr>pr\- Kr](j>iaaS, Kal avvEKrpaxvvopE-
H£vr)g rrjg iroXEOig Xbifrog eXe'i-keto vog, oxvpdv kvarpaTOirEBEvaai
iTErpiiBrig Kal TrEpUpnpvog, tov rrjv aKpav ttoie'i.
'HBvXlov BiaipiapEvogbpovg baov
o 2

196 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
along the foot of Edylium until he arrived over-
against Archelaus, who was encamped behind a
strong entrenchment at a place called Assia, be
tween Edylium and Acontium1. The place in the
time of Plutarch was called from the circumstance
Archelaus. It was probably situated in that bay
of the plain between Edylium and Acontium,
which is watered by a small branch of the Cephis
sus, and where now stands the village of Kara-
musa. Having remained a day in this position,
Sylla left Muraena there in the command of a
legion and two cohorts, and having sacrificed at
the Cephissus, moved to Chaeroneia for the purpose
of joining the troops who had occupied that place,
as well as to examine the position of a body of the
enemy which, after the unsuccessful movement
upon Chaeroneia, had taken a position on Mount
Thurium. This height, in the time of Plutarch,
was called Orthopagium, and is described by him
as a rugged pine-shaped mountain2. Below it
were the torrent Morius and the temple of Apollo
Thurius, who received that epithet from Thuro, the
mother of Chaeron, who was the founder of Chae
roneia. Two men of Chaeroneia having proposed
to lead a detachment to the summit of Thurium by
a road unknown to the Asiatics, Sylla ordered upon
this service a body of Romans under Hirtius, and
then drew out his army, placing the cavalry on
1 'Ewei oe <5ie/3jj Tov"Aaaov b Kal tov 'HBvXlov, irpbg rote
'SivXXag, irap£X6ii)V inrb to 'RBi- XEyopkvaig 'Aaaloig.
Xiov, t$ 'ApxeXdw TrapEarparo- 2 Kopv<j>r) rpax£~ta Kai arpo-
irkBEvaEV (lEfiXwpEvip xaPaKa fliX&BEQ opog.
KapTEpbv kv pkaij) tov 'AkovtIov

XIII. J BCEOTIA. 197
either flank, himself on the right, Mursena on the
left, and Hortensius, with a reserve of five cohorts,
on the hills in the rear, in order to prevent the
enemy from circumventing the Romans by means
of their numerous cavalry and light troops.
The road indicated to Hirtius by the two Chae
ronenses led from Mount Petrachus, by a temple
of the Muses. As soon as he had obtained posses
sion of the summit of the mountain, the Asiatics
were immediately thrown into confusion by the un
expected attack of the Romans from above ; 3000
were slain on the hills, others fell into the hands
of Muraena, and the remainder arrived in such
confusion at their own camp, as to create a general
disorder. Sylla, on perceiving it, moved forward
his right so promptly, that the chariots of the
Asiatics, which required a certain space to be
effectual, were unable to act to advantage. The
combat now became general : the Romans threw
aside their pilae1 and fought with swords2 only,
but could not make any impression upon the long
pikes3 and combined shields4 of the Asiatics, or
upon the dense order of 15000 slaves5, whom the
Asiatic commanders had liberated from the Greek
cities : these, however, were at length broken by
the javelins and sling-shot of the adverse light-
armed. As Archelaus was extending his right
wing in order to encompass the enemy, Hortensius
advanced rapidly to meet him, but was obliged to
retreat before the Asiatic cavalry to the hills, where

vaaov^. avvaairiauu.
fiaxcilpaig. 5 dtpdirovrag.
aaplaaag paKpdg.

198 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
he was in so much danger of being cut off, that
Sylla advanced from the right to his succour.
Archelaus perceiving Sylla's intention by the dust,
quitted Hortensius and turned against the enemy's
right, while Taxilles, with the Chalcaspidae, at
tacked Muraena, so that a shout arising on both
sides, and the hills around repeating it, Sylla was
for a moment in suspense which way to move ; but
having resolved to return to his own post on the
right, he took one of the cohorts of Hortensius with
him, and sent the other four to the support of Mu
raena. On his arrival he found the right hard
pressed by Archelaus, but his men receiving a new
impulse from the presence of their commander, in
one great effort routed the enemy, and drove him
to the Cephissus and Mount Acontium. Sylla
then moved to the assistance of Muraena, but found
him already victorious over Taxilles, and joined
him in the pursuit. Ten thousand only of the van
quished Asiatics arrived in safety at Chalcis
('Egripo), while Sylla, according to his own asser
tion in his commentaries, had only twelve men
missing. He erected two trophies, one in the
plain where the troops of Archelaus first gave
way and fled to the river Molus ; the other on the
top of Mount Thurium. The latter was inscribed
with the names of the two Chaeronenses, who had
led thither the Romans under Hirtius.
The narrative of which the preceding contains the
substance, is rendered the more interesting by its
being of a different kind from those which are usu
ally given of military occurrences by Plutarch, to
whom we generally look in vain for any accurate or
topographical details of such events. It is indeed so

XIII. J BCEOTIA. 19J)
well told, that I cannot but consider it as almost a
literal extract from the commentaries of Sylla. I was
the more anxious, therefore, to compare it with the
scene of action. One of the points desirable to be
identified is the summit named Thurium. The
only remarkable peak in the range of heights which,
branching eastward from the foot of Parnassus,
border the plain of Chaeroneia on the south, is
situated about three miles west of Petrachus, or
the Acropolis of Chaeroneia, and two south-east of
Daulis ; it rises from the right bank of the river
now called Platani, which I have before described
as crossing the plain of Daulis to the Cephissus.
But this point is too distant from Chaeroneia, and
there can scarcely be a doubt that it was within
the Phocic boundary, and in the district of Pano
peus, whereas Thurium, as well from the transac
tions on the day of battle, as from the local tradi
tion concerning Thuro, mother of Chaeron, was
evidently in the district of Chaeroneia, and not
very far from Petrachus. I conclude, therefore,
that Thurium was the highest point of the hills
behind Chaeroneia, not far from the right bank of
the rivulet, above the left bank of which, lower
down, are the ruined walls of Panopeus. The
name Mera, attached to a village in the valley,
may be a corruption of Morius. The torrent called
Molus would seem to be that which joins the left
bank ofthe Cephissus, and which separates Edylium
from Acontium. Here, therefore, was Assia, and
the placed called Archelaus, where the commander
of the Asiatics formed his entrenched camp after
Sylla had taken Parapotamii. It is to be supposed,
13

200 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
that although this was the position of Archelaus
himself, his immense army extended quite across
the plain to Chaeroneia and Mount Thurium. The
hills in the rear, on which Hortensius was posted,
and where he was attacked by a movement of the
right of the Asiatics round the left of the Romans,
seem to have been not far from Daulis. Although
these are the conclusions to which I have come upon
examining the scene of action, I am aware that the
difficulty which I have already mentioned, may
seem to throw some doubt upon the whole explana
tion. Supposing the narrative to have been written
originally by Sylla, and that either the Roman
general himself, or the copiers of his memoirs, may
have been in error as to the course of the Assus
near Parapotamii, it still seems unaccountable that
the biographer who adopted the account, and who
was describing places near his own door, should
not have discovered and corrected the mistake.
It may be thought, perhaps, that the citadel of the
Parapotamii may not have been at the Paleo-kastro
of Belissi, but on the hill of Merali, which being
really separated from the adjacent mountain by
the stream which joins the Cephissus below the
Paleo-kastro, so far corresponds with the words of
Plutarch. But the consequence would be that the
mountain of Khubavo, and not that of Belissi, was
the ancient Edylium, and that the entrenched camp
of Archelaus was not near Karamusa., as I have
supposed, but in the valley between Khubavo and
Belissi, which is quite irreconcileable with the data
of Theopompus and Strabo, as to Parapotamii,
Edylium, and Acontium. The situation of Para-

XIII.] BCEOTIA. 201
potamii, in the pass of five stades between Par
nassus and the western end of the line of moun
tains, which terminated at the other extremity in
Orchomenus, as well as the length of that ridge
and the distance of Parapotamii from Chaeroneia,
are all too near the accurate truth when applied to
the site near Belissi, to admit of any doubt of the
identity. Perhaps it may be supposed that the hill which
Sylla pointed out to bis troops, and which they
afterwards took, was the more conspicuous western
extremity of the summit of Edylium, upon which
are the ruins of a modern castle, that those ruins
occupy the site of the citadel of the Parapotamii,
that the Hellenic remains at the Paleokastro of
Belissi belonged to the town only, and that the
Assus was the small stream near Karamusa, which
may seem the more likely, as there is every reason
to believe that Assia was in that position. But
this would not remove the difficulty, for notwith
standing the identity of name, it is impossible to
suppose the river Assus and the village or place
Assia to have been very near to each other, the
former having flowed below the western extremity
of Edylium, and the latter having been situated
between Edylium and Acontium 1.
1 Soon after his victory at victory over Archelaus, which
Chaeroneia, Sylla was called was so destructive that two
upon to oppose a new army of hundred years afterwards, in
Asiatics which had landed at the time of Plutarch, arms
Chalcis, and after some skir- were still found in great quan-
mishing at Tilphossium, gain- tities in the marshes.
ed, near Orchomenus, a second

202 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
Dec. 14. — Since I have left loannina, the
weather, with the exception of two days of south
erly wind and rain at Dhomoko and Zituni has
been constantly calm and clear, with a slight
north-easter : yesterday it began to threaten, and
the change .this day declared itself in a tremen
dous storm of wind, accompanied with intermitting
showers. Livadhia, among its other inconveniences
of climate, is particularly subject in winter to these
sudden and violent gales, which descend from
Helicon with such fury as often to carry away
tiles and chimneys, as occurred to-day in several
instances. The gale when of this extreme violence
is denominated a mega.
Livadhia being a vakuf is governed by a voi-
voda, who farms the revenue from the administra
tion of the royal mosques ; or more commonly by
a vekil, or deputy, for whom the farmer is an
swerable. The Turk now residing at Livadhia
is in the latter capacity, but is himself farmer and
collector of the customs.
The municipal power is divided among three
principal Greek families, of which the first is that
of John Khondrodhima, commonly called the
Logotheti, from his office in the church. All the
affairs of the town pass through the hands of a
grammatikos, appointed by these archons. Nei
ther the Turkish voivoda nor the kady interfere,
unless when a Turk is concerned, and the former
in particular abstains from it, as he dreads the
loss of his usual presents from the Greeks, and
the effects of their complaints at Constantinople.
His chief business is to receive the imperial taxes,

xin. j bceotia. 203
which are let at present to the three persons above-
mentioned, for 2500 purses a year. These taxes
are the miri, or dhekatia, the avaresi, or tax on
personal property, and the kharatj, or capitation.
The first is underlet in portions every year.
Those who farm it visit the villages at the time
of threshing, and receive their share, which in
lands belonging to Greeks is about an eighth.
The remainder is generally divided in the pro
portion of two thirds to the proprietor, he owning
the stock, and supplying the seed corn. The
harvestmen are generally paid in kind, either a
stipulated quantity by the day, or a tenth of the
crop : the remainder is the metayer's portion, and
is shared generally among several persons. In
many instances the dhekatia is farmed by the Greek
proprietor, in which case his share of the harvest
becomes seventeen twenty-fourths nearly. Some
of the lands of Livadhia are Spahiliks, and have
been held on the feudal tenure of military service
ever since the conquest. These pay a much smaller
dhekatia to the Spahi, than the Greek lands to the
farmer of the vakuf; they are generally hired by
Greeks of Livadhia, and are cultivated like the
others. Sometimes the Spahilik also is included,
and it happens occasionally that the Greek resides
in the village as Spahi, but the Spahilik is more
commonly in the hands of Albanian soldiers,
who find it a good mode of laying out their
savings, as the Spahis, besides the tithe, have
by custom established a title to a fee of a piastre
per annum from every man, and half a piastre
from every boy in the village, besides a certain

204 bceotia. [chap.
allowance of provision when he resides, which
the Albanian always does, for the sake of this
maintenance, and other advantages which his sta
tion as a Musulman soldier gives him. It some
times happens that the resident Spahi has not
the tithe — only the fee, and what else he can
extort. The poor Greek peasant, as I before remarked,
derives but little advantage from the land being held
by his fellow-Christians. Though he can seldom
obtain a fair market for his share of the produce,
he generally has to furnish from it the exorbitant
interest of some money which the Greek land
holder or the Spahi has tempted him to borrow,
after having forced him to the necessity of it : in
short, he finds himself in no better condition than
if he were a labourer on a Turkish tjiftlik. To
complete his misery, the upper class of Greeks at
Livadhia are as insolent and unfeeling to their
inferiors, as they are malignantly jealous of one
another ; though it cannot be denied at the same
time, that they have all the hospitality, wit, and
sociable disposition of the nation, and, unlike the
thesaurizing Jews and Armenians, generally live to
the full extent of their means.
Aly Pasha is now more feared than the Porte at
Livadhia ; and it is found expedient to send every
spring a deputation of 'Arkhondes to Ioannina with
a present of about 100 purses. Not along ago he
endeavoured to obtain possession of Dhadhi, but
by the management of the chiefs of Livadhia, the
ruin of that rising community was for the present
avoided. His advances, however, threaten to in-

xiii. J bceotia. 205
crease in this direction, his son Vely having lately
obtained the mukata, of Talanda.
Dec. 17. — From Livadhia to Mazi. In crossing
the opening of the vale of Coroneia, the principal
summit of Helicon presents itself very majestically
at the head of the valley. It is a round mountain
standing rather separate from the rest of the range
of Helicon, well clothed with firs, and now capped
with snow. The modern name is Paleovtini, or
Paleovuna.. Half-way thither, hidden from sight
in a ravine, is Kukora, from which village there is
a road across the Heliconian ridge to Khosia, and
Kakosia. In two hours we arrive at the fountain Tilphossa,
issuing from the foot of the rocky height now
called Petra. The fortress Tilphossaeum, which
stood on the summit, appears to have been
among the most important in Bceotia '. Pro
ceeding from thence at 3.5, we cross, in seven
minutes, a brook from Rastamyti, a small village
half a mile on the right in an angle of the hills,
where a ridge connects Tilphossium with Libe
thrium: and in ten minutes more cross a stream,
the largest we have passed this day except the
Phalarus. It rises in the eastern part of Mount
Libethrium, and issues through a precipitous gorge
lying between the eastern end of Tilphossium and
a rocky peak which rises immediately behind the
village of Mazi. On the right bank of this river,
among a great quantity of loose stones, broken
pottery, and other appearances of an ancient site,
are several squared blocks, sufficient to indicate
1 Demosth. de fal. leg. 1. 4, c. 67 ; 1. 19, c. 53 — opoc
p. 385, 387. Reiske. — Diodor. kpv/xvov. Strabo, p. 413.

206 bceotia. [chap.
the position of Ocalea, a Homeric city, not men
tioned by Pausanias, but well described by Strabo,
as situated on the bank of a rivulet of the same
name, midway between Alalcomenae and Haliar
tus1. His distance, however, of thirty stades from
each, though it accords with the fifty stades which
Pausanias places between Haliartus and Tilphusa,
appears to be too great by more than a third.
Leaving now the direct road to Thebes, we
ascend obliquely to Mazi, a small village on the
foot of a remarkable peaked hill. From Mazi the
road continues southward to Mavromati and Ere-
mokastro. The Maziotes chiefly cultivate kalam
bokki in the plain, and vineyards on the hills around
the village.
Dec. 18. — I revisit this morning the remains of
Haliartus, which are found on a low hill separated
from the extremity of the height of Mazi by a nar
row branch of the plain, and about a mile distant
from the village. Towards the lake the hill of
Haliartus terminates in rocky cliffs, but on the
other sides has a gradual acclivity. Some remains
of the walls of the Acropolis, chiefly of polygonal
masonry, are found on the summit of the hill, and
there are several sepulchral crypts in the cliffs,
below which, to the north, issues a copious source
of water, flowing to the marsh, like all the other
streams near the site of Haliartus. Although the
walls of the exterior town are scarcely anywhere
traceable, its extent is naturally marked to the east
and west by two small rivers, of which that to the
1 r) B' 'ClKaXkn pEarj 'AXidprov irapafipE'i B' avrijv irordpiov
Kal ' AXaXKopEv'iov, EKarEpov bpwwpov. — Strabo, p. 410.
TpiaKovra araBiovg, dirixovaa'

xni. J bceotia. 207
west issues from the foot, of the hill of Mazi ; the
eastern, called the Kefalari, has its origin in Mount
Helicon. Near the left bank of this stream, at a
distance of 500 yards from the Acropolis, are a
ruined mosque and two ruined churches, on the
site of a village which, though long since aban
doned, is shown by these remains to have been
once inhabited by both Turks and Greeks. Here
are many fragments of architecture and of inscribed
stones, collected formerly from the ruins of Haliar
tus. From this spot there is a distance of about
three quarters of a mile to a tumulus westward of
the Acropolis, where are several sarcophagi and
ancient foundations near some sources of water,
marking probably the site of the western entrance
ofthe city.
The tumulus covers perhaps the bones of the
men who fell with Lysander in the celebrated
battle fought here in the year B. C. 395 ' ; for the
circumstances of the event point exactly to this
situation. Lysander had been sent by the Ephori
with a small body of Spartans into Phocis, to col
lect the forces of that nation, together with those
of the contiguous people of CEta, Heracleia, Melis,
and the iEnianes, and had been directed to march
to Haliartus, where Pausanias, with 6000 Pelopon-
nesians, was to meet him. Lysander not only suc
ceeded in his mission, but induced Orchomenus
to revolt from Thebes, and took Lebadeia by as
sault, from whence he wrote to Pausanias, inform
ing him that he should arrive at Haliartus on a

1 Xenoph. Hellen. 1. 3, c. 5. in Lysand. Pausan. Boeot.
Diodor. 1. 14, c. 81. Plutarch c. 32.

208 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
certain morning at break of day. But theThebans
intercepted his letter, and thus obtained the means
of anticipating him at Haliartus while Pausanias
was left in ignorance of his motions. Leaving
Thebes to the care of their Athenian allies, they
marched in the night, introduced a part of their
forces into the city, and with the remainder placed
themselves in ambuscade, ready to fall on the
enemy's rear, at the fountain Cissusa1, near which,
adds Plutarch, were monuments of Rhadamanthus
and Alcmena, and a place noted for producing the
plants from which Cretan javelins were made2.
Lysander, on his arrival, thought at first of wait
ing for Pausanias on " the height3;" but becom
ing impatient as the day advanced, he placed him
self at the head of his troops, and moved forward
with the phalanx in column along the road lead
ing to the city 4. As soon as he arrived near the
wall, the Thebans and Haliartii, rushing suddenly
from the gate, slew him and his augur5, with a
few others, upon which the phalanx retreated to
the hills. One thousand of them were slain in
the pursuit ; but it was fatal also to more than two
hundred Thebans, who had rashly followed them
into narrow and difficult places.
The king of Sparta was on his march from Pla-
taea to Thespiae when the news reached him. The
1 tSiv Be Qr)(ialb>v ol ptv e£(i) 2 Ot Be _\pr)aaioi aropaKEg ou
pEpEvrjKOTEg, kv dpiaTEpcj. rr)v irpbaur 7rEpiirE(j>vKaaiv .
iroXiv XafibvTEg, kfjaSii^ov kiri 3 £7rt X6<j>ov.
roue kaxdrovg tG>v irdXEpiwv l bpdla ry (jtdXayyi irapd
biro rr)v Kpr/vrjV rr)v Kiaaovaav rrjv bBbv ^f-yc Trpbg to rEn/os.
irpoaayopEvopkvriv. — Plutarch 5 avrov te pird tov pdvTEiog
in Lysand. Kark/iaXov.

XIII. J BCEOTIA. 209
next day he arrived at Haliartus ; but finding that
the Phocians and other allies had marched off in
the night, and Thrasybulus on the following day
bringing a body of Athenians to the assistance of
the Boeotians, all he could do was to enter into
terms for the body of Lysander, which it would
have been difficult to have obtained in any other
mode, as it lay near the walls. Retreating out of
Bceotia, he buried Lysander in the district of the
Panopaei, in the road which Plutarch, being him
self of Chaeroneia, very naturally describes as that
leading from Chaeroneia to Delphi. It appears
from the same author, that the rivulet which flowed
along the western wall of Haliartus, where Lysan
der fell, was named Hoplites ; the same probably
as the Lophis of Pausanias, to whose fable concern
ing it the situation of the sources near the tumu
lus ' is well adapted. Cissusa was evidently the
fountain below the cliffs of the hill of Haliartus2 ;
for the existence near that fountain, of plants from
which javelins were made, indicates the proximity
of the marsh, and that position accords with the
remark of Plutarch, that the Thebans marched to
Cissusa with the city on their left. They would

1 The Haliartii, suffering his blood fell the water issued
from drought, sent to inquire forth. — Pausan. Bceot. c. 33.
of the Oracle of Delphi how 2 Plutarch relates that Bac-
they were to obtain water, chus was washed in Cissusa
when the messenger was di- after his birth, and that the
rected to kill the first person water was of the colour of
he should meet on returning. wine. This peculiarity I can ¦
This happened to be a boy not confirm.
named Lophis, and wherever
VOL. II. P

210 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
naturally avoid its southern side, lest Lysander
should be in possession of the heights, and the
northern extremity was well suited to their inten
tion in placing themselves there, if we suppose the
entrance of the city where Lysander was slain, to
have been near the tumulus.
The rocky gorges to the westward of the hill of
Mazi agree exactly with the rugged places * where
the Thebans suffered, and as Plutarch adds that their
loss had been predicted by an oracle which warned
them to beware of Orchalides and the hill of
foxes2, which latter was in the district of Haliar
tus, towards Helicon, and in his time was called
Alopecum, we cannot but infer that Alopecum
was the peak of Mazi, and Orchalides a village
which may have occupied the site of Mazi itself.
Although the hill of Haliartus is not fifty feet higher
than the lake, its rocky point projecting into the
marsh is remarkable from every part of the plain.
Possessing a fertile district, and commanding a
pass in the center of Bceotia, which is well de
scribed by Strabo as a strait between a mountain
and the lake Copais ' : Haliartus was one of the
1 <n-£vox<"'pta te Kal Bvairo- Tpaxka Kal KaprEpd. — Plu-
pia. — Xenoph. tarch.
2 '_\axaTiav ir£<j>vXa£,o XvKOvg Ka/xaKEaai Bokeiiwv
Kal Xb(j>ov 'OpxaXt'cfyv, bv aXai7nj£ ovttote Xelttei.
The first line relates to the battle of Delium.
3 'EkeIto Be kv otevCj XwP'V Kal ro" EXovg tov ibvovrog tov
pErai,v virEpKEipkvov opovg Kal avXr)riKov KaXapov. — Strabo,
rrjg Korira'iBog Xipvrjg, irXrjalov p, 411.
tov XlEpprjaaoii /cat tov 'OXpsiov
13

XIII.] BCEOTIA. 211
most important of the cities of this province, as the
circumstances of the Bceotic war1 just mentioned
prove. Having, unhappily, on two great occa
sions, sided with the weaker of two contending
parties, it was twice exposed to the vengeance of
power; first in the Persian invasion, when its con
duct formed an honourable exception to that of the
rest of Bceotia, and again in the last struggle of
the Macedonians under Perseus against the Ro
mans ; the consequence of which latter imprudence
was that Haliartus no longer existed in the time of
Strabo. The praetor Lucretius, who took it after
a spirited resistance, destroyed the town, sold its
inhabitants for slaves, and embarked its pictures, sta
tues, and other valuable property in his ships. The
territory was afterwards given to the Athenians 2.
Nor does it appear that Haliartus had recovered,
like some other Greek towns, any portion of its
former prosperity in the time of Pausanias, for he
found here only some temples without roof or
statue, which had been destroyed by the Persians,
and had been purposely left in that state, like some
others at Athens 3 ; it was not even known to what
deities they had been dedicated. A monument in
honour of Lysander still remained, and a heroum
of Cecrops, son of Pandion. The Haliartia ex
tended westward to Mount Tilphossium, as ap
pears by the remark of Pausanias, that the Hali-
1 'O .irbXspog olrog UXriOri 1. 30, c. 18. Liv. 1. 42, c. 63.
Boiwtikoc. — Diodor. ubi supra. 3 Pausan. Bceot. c. 33.
2 Strabo, p. 411. Polyb. Phocic. c. 35.
VOL. II. P 2 +-

212 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
artii had an open sanctuary of the goddesses called
Praxidicae, which was very near that moun
tain \
The Kefalari, which is as large as the Phalarus,
but does not like that river fail in summer, as I
remarked on my former journey in this country,
originates near Dusia and Mavromati, and receives
the river of Zagara. At its entrance into the plain
of Haliartus, the greater part of its water is turned
eastward along the foot of the heights to some
mills ; but its natural course is by the village of
Megalo Mulki into the marsh not far to the north
eastward of Haliartus. The two branches of the
river from Mavromati and Zagara seems to accord
exactly with the Permessus and Olmeius, which,
according to Strabo, flowed from Helicon, and
after uniting entered the lake Copais near Haliar
tus 2. Zenodotus, whom Strabo quotes in refer
ence to Ascra, and from whom he seems to have
derived his information as to the Permessus and
Olmeius, stated the former to have had its sources
in the Thespiace, and described the latter as a
stream towards the summit of Mount Helicon
about three hundred stades from Thebes'. The
sources of the Kefalari being about midway be
tween the sites of Haliartus and Thespiae, agree

1 Eort irpoc Ty bp£i rjJ TtX- EpiriirTOvat Xipvnv TrjvKwiraiBa
(povrrif to Upov. — Pausan. tov 'AXidprov irXr\aiov. — Stra-
Boeot. c. 33. bo, p. 407, V. et 411, ubi sup.
2 /cat 6 IlEppriaabg Kal b 'OX- 3 Apud Schol. Hesiod.
ptibg £/c tov 'EXiKtovog avp/idX- Theog. v. 5.
Xojtec a'XX^Xotc £ig Tr)v avrrjv

XIII. J BCEOTIA. 213
perfectly with those of the Permessus, and the river
of Zagara so far accords with the Olmeius, that it
flows from a valley which separates Libethrium
from Helicon. The distance of three hundred
stades from Thebes, however, is too great for any
part of the Heliconian mountains.
Having crossed the Kefalari at the ruined
mosque, and passed Mulki half a mile on the left,
we proceed along the foot of the hills, and in four
teen minutes from the Kefalari arrive at a copious
fountain at the foot of a low rock similar to the
cliffs of Haliartus, and about half a mile from the
edge of the marsh. Above it stands a square
tower half ruined, and of the same construction as
those at Xeropyrgo and other places in Bceotia.
To the north-eastward of this point the slope of the
mountain now called Faga, meets the marsh in a
projecting point ; between which and another ex
tremity towards Kardhitza the marsh forms a bay.
At 10.17 we begin to ascend the low ridge which
separates the two great Boeotian basins, those
of the Cephissis and of Thebes, and which con
nects Mount Faga, with the roots of Helicon; at
10.21, on its summit, we arrive at a small piece
of Hellenic wall, consisting only of three or four
stones in their places, on the right hand side of
the road. The direction of this foundation is
oblique to the road, running north and south,
while the direction of the road in this spot is
south-east. On the height on either side are
many stones in the ploughed land, not natural to
the soil, as well as other usual indications of an
ancient site.

214 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
Pausanias, moving in the direction of this point
from the Neitides gate of Thebes, arrives at about
forty stades from thence, at a temple of the Cabeiri,
to the right of which was theTeneric plain, and to the
left a road branching to Thespiae, distant fifty stades.
On the other side of the Teneric plain rose the
mountain where the Sphinx was said to have lain
in wait for passengers, putting them to death, if
they were unable to interpret her enigma. The
ruins of Onchestus, where still remained the temple
and statue of Neptune Onchestius, in an aAo-oc, or
sacred grove, were fifteen stades distant from the
mountain. Pausanias does not mention the dis
tance on the direct road from the Cabeirium to
Onchestus, nor does he continue his route from
Onchestus to Haliartus ; but turning from the
Cabeirium to Thespiae, describes the places in
that part of Bceotia before he proceeds to treat of
Haliartus, thus leaving no information as to the
distance and direction of Onchestus, either from
Thebes or from Haliartus 1. But Strabo has sup
plied this deficiency ; for after censuring Alcaeus
for placing Onchestus at the foot of Helicon, whereas
it was at a considerable distance from that moun
tain, he states that it was in the Haliartia,
on a naked hill near the Teneric plain, and the
Copaic Lake. He farther remarks, that Medeon,
another Homeric town of the Haliartia, was after
wards called Phcenicis, from its position at the foot
of Mount Phcenicium, that Medeon was very near
Onchestus, and that Mount Phcenicium was in the
1 Pausan. Bceot. c. 25, 26.

XIII.] BCEOTIA. 215
district of Thebes1. Upon comparing these autho
rities with the places, it is evident that Faga was
the mountain of the Sphinx, which the Greeks in
general called Sphingium, but the Boeotians $'lKl0v,
or <P«c«ov, from $i$2, the Bceotic form of 2^>l-yi;, and
it seems also that the same mountain, or at least a
part of it, near theHaliartia, was named Phcenicium.
The modern name 4>ayac may be a corruption of
3>t'/aov, or it may be a vestige of the fable of the
devouring Sphinx. It further appears from the same
authors, that the Teneric plain was the north-west
ern portion of the plain of Thebes, or that part of it
which lies at the foot of Mount Faga, to the south
east ; and that Onchestus, having been within the
Haliartia, fifteen stades distant from the mountain,
and near the Copaic lake as well as the Teneric
plain, could hardly have occupied any other posi
tion than the low ridge which separates the plains,
and where the Hellenic vestiges still subsist. Me
deon having also been in the Haliartia, would seem
to have stood near the lake in the bay on the north
western side of Mount Faga, between the site of
Haliartus and Kardhitza.
At 1 1. 10, having halted till that time, I leave the
supposed site of Onchestus and begin to descend
from the pass into the plain, which at first is not so
much as a mile in breadth, bordered on the right
by gently-rising cultivated heights, and on the left
by the rugged sides of Mount Faga. At 11.24 we
1 Strabo, p. 410. 412. Schol.— Plutarch. in Gryllosive
2 Hesiod. Sc. Hercul. v. 33, de Anim. ration. — Stephan. in
et Schol. — Id. Theogn. v. 326, &Ikewv.
et Schol. — Lycophr. v. 1465, et

216 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
have the foot of this hill near us on the left, and
at 1 1.27 the highest peak. As we proceed, the plain
between us and the mountain becomes broader,
and is now inundated. In summer it produces
kalambokki. Before us, as far as Thebes, the
great level, as well as the long slopes of the hills
to the right of it, is for the most part a continued
corn-field, without a single fence. A part of the
arable is lying fallow, and some part of the land
is in pasture, but upon the whole it is as well
cultivated a district as any in Europe. At
11.46, Vaia and Khasnesi, two considerable vil
lages, separated only by a small ravine, are two
miles on the right. Vaia is the lower. At 12.5 we
cross the road leading from Vaia to Mazeraki, which
latter is two or three miles on the left, in the Teneric
plain near the foot of the lower declivities of Mount
Faga, where are some sources of water, and above
them on the heights a monastery. At 12.15 we
pass Tzoanno, and a few minutes further Morokamo
at the foot of the slopes on the right. These, like
Mazeraki and the others, are small villages. At
12.40 the most projecting point of Mount Faga. is
on the left, a low stony rise, which we may suppose
to have formed the separation between the Teneric
plain and that of Thebes. From thence the lower
ridges of that mountain trend to the northward
towards the heights connecting the mountains
Phicium and Ptoum, and below which is an inun
dated koA7toc, or bay ofthe Teneric plain. At 12.50
we cross the Kanavari, or Kanavri1, a small stream
1 Kava/3a'pto»', Kavdfipiov.

XIII. J BCEOTIA. 217
dry in summer, which rises at Erimokastro, and
joins the Lake of Senzina near its southern ex
tremity — halt five minutes. At about a quarter of
an hour from Thebes we begin to ascend obliquely
the heights on which that town is situated, and at
1.30 cross a rivulet called Platziotissa, which rises
a little above Thebes, and flows in a ravine along
the western side of the town. In ascending the
bank of this ravine to the town, a fountain occurs
named Paraporti.

CHAPTER XIV.

BCEOTIA.
Ypsili Rakhi — General geography of Bceotia — Rivers and foun
tains of Thebes — Cadmeia — Description of the city by Dicas-
archus and Pausanias — Dimensions of the city — Seven Gates
— Departure for 'Egripo — Teumessus — Mount Siamata, Hy-
patus — - Glisas — River Thermodpn — Harma — Mycalessus —
'Egripo, Chalcis — Euripus — Bridge — Mount Kalogheritza —
Lelantum — Aulis — Cape Emperesium — Departure from 'Egripo
— Akhalia — Salganeus — Ancient road — Anthedon.
The hills immediately around Thebes are for the
most part uncultivated, and, being intersected with
large white charadrae or furrows, have rather a
dismal appearance. They are capable of producing
good wine, but the Thebans seem to think only of
the culture of corn. The tteSIov wpriipopov1 is still
noted for its fertility, and produced last year
148,000 kuvelia of wheat of excellent quality,
while in almost every other part of Greece the
crop was indifferent : 500 kuvelia of flour are sent
1 'Ec Mt/KaX?jo,o,oj' iiov Kal Tsvpriaaov XEX£iroir)v,
Qr'iflrjg B' EiaaiptKavEg iBog KaraEipkyov vXt)'
Oil yap irii Tig 'ivaiE (iporiiv uprj kvl Qr)(ir),
OvB' cipa irui tote r)aav drdpiroi ovBk keXevOoi
Qr)Prjg ap tteBIov irvpri<j>bpov, a'XX' ex^ liXri.
Hymn, in Apoll. v. 228.

CHAP. XIV. J BCEOTIA. 219
weekly to 'Egripo, there being no mills at the
latter place. The greater part of the land in the
district of Thebes is owned by three men of 'Egripo,
Ahmed Pasha., mousellim of that place ; Bekir,
now Pasha, of Bosnia, and Rashid Bey : the land
lord and the Greek cultivator share the produce of
grain equally, the former finding the seed and half
the oxen ; but there is a tribe of kiayas and gram-
matikoi who superintend the landlords' concerns
on the spot, and contrive to diminish very largely
the receipts of both parties.
To the observer from Thebes, Mount Faga, the
ancient Phicium, or Phcenicium, presents a single
bare and rugged peak, which to the right is sepa
rated from a long even ridge equally bare, and
nearly of the same height, by the opening in which
stands the village of Kardhitza. The latter moun
tain is the ancient Ptoum, now known in different
parts by the names of Palea, Strutzina, and Skro-
poneri, and extending from Kardhitza north-east
ward until it is blended with Messapium, now
called Khtypa. Midway between Thebes and
Messapium, and hiding the highest part of the
latter is the mountain named Samata, or Siamata,
vulgarly pronounced Shamata, from a village of
that name behind it. It is bold and rocky, with
a flat summit ; and being the nearest, i3 the most
conspicuous of all the mountains around Thebes.
It seems clearly to be the ancient Hypatus.
Dec. 19. — Pass the forenoon on a height called
Psilirakhi, that is to say, »» 'Y^X*? Pax»), or the
high ridge, which is distant two miles direct from
Thebes to the east-south-east. It is the nearest

220 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
point affording a good view of the southern Boeotian
basin, or that which is bounded on the south by
the Boeoto- Attic range of Cithceron and Parnes, to
the west by Helicon, and to the north by Phicium,
Hypatus, and Messapium, and which, as I before
observed, is separated only from the great northern
valley of Baeotia by the ridge of Onchestus. On ob
serving how completely distinct the two great valleys
are, each of them being surrounded by mountains
except at that ridge, one is not surprised that Bce
otia should have been for a long time divided into
two great political leagues, of which Thebes and
Orchomenus were deservedly the chief places, nor
that Thebes, surrounded by a larger extent of more
uniformly fertile country, and happily situated at
a moderate distance from three outlets of maritime
commerce, should have acquired a preponderance
over its rival, which would have raised Thebes to
much higher destinies than it ever attained, had
the Boeotians been more favourable to letters and in
struction. To this cause alone a historian of the age
of Alexander attributes the fact, that their power
was never durable, notwithstanding their three
seas ', their ports on the Corinthiac Gulf, com
municating with Italy, Sicily, and Libya, and
those on the Euboic frith, which conducted on one
side of the Euripus to Egypt and Cyprus, and on
the other to Macedonia and the Propontis 2.
1 povr\ rpiddXarrbg kan. — barians, with whom force is bet-
Ephor. ap. Strabon. p. 400. ter than logic (/3t'a Xoyou fcpEtr-
2 Strabo (p. 401) observes, twv kan), and that the Ro-
that the remark of Ephorus will mans, having first prevailed by
apply to Greeks, but not to bar- force over nations more bar-

XI V.J BCEOTIA. 221
The Psilirakhi, although not high, is the most
central summit in the southern basin, and stands in
the middle of a low range of hills, which, branch
ing from the eastern end of Mount Helicon, extends
to the Euhoic frith, and divides the basin into two
parts, of which the Parasopia, or vale of the Asopus,
is the most remarkable plain in the southern divi
sion : and that of Thebes in the northern. The
position of Thebes was determined by its being the
only spot in the separating ridge where water is plen
tiful. Towards Helicon, in the vicinity of Tkespia,
the ridge becomes lower and rounder, and is well
cultivated in many parts ; to the eastward of Thebes
it is not so fertile, and the villages are consequently
less numerous than to the westward, but the hills
are covered with a fine pasture, and abound in wild
thyme, and other odoriferous herbs. Eastward of
Psilirakhi the ridge rises to its highest peak, now
called Soro, the falls of which approach so near to
the foot of Mount Parnes, that there is only a nar
row rocky ravine between them, through which the
Asopus finds its way from the Parasopian valley
into the Tanagraean plain, and from thence by ano
ther similar ravine into the Oropia.
Thebes is now called rd 0rjj3o, or more com
monly in Bceotia, rd <J>rj/3a, by that easy substi
tution of the one aspirate for the other, of which
there are many examples in the ancient language.

barous than themselves, were thus became lords of all (eVe-
sensible of the importance of Oevto Kal ravrrj rrj dywyrj /cat
science when they had to deal KariaTnaav irdvrwv Kvpwi.)
with more civilized people, and

222 BCEOTIA. [chap.
The Turks say Stifa. The town stands on a hill,
separated on every side from the adjacent heights,
rising about 150 feet above the plain, and situated
two miles to the northward ofthe highest part ofthe
ridge. It is bounded to the east and west by the
ravines of two small rivers, and is surrounded by a
ruinous wall, composed of materials and repairs of
various ages, among which are seen, in many places,
Roman tile-work, and large squared blocks in the
Greek style. A lowprojection at the northern extre
mity was occupied by a keep or tower, which, as
well as another tower at the north-eastern angle,
with its adjoining gateway, are of more solid con
struction than the rest of the work, and are chiefly
composed of ancient materials. The circuit is
about a mile and a half, and is said to contain 700
families, of which about 250 are Turkish. The
streets are narrow, and the houses stand close
together, with few gardens. To the southward,
between the town and the ridge, the hollow which
was anciently occupied by lower Thebes, is now
crossed by a ruined aqueduct upon arches, which
still conveys water into the town from the western
rivulet. The district contains 64 villages, most of
which are small.
At Thebes, as in most of the towns of Greece,
which continue to occupy their ancient sites, the
remains of antiquity chiefly consist of fragments
of architecture and sculpture, or of inscribed mar
bles, dispersed among the houses, mosques, baths,
and fountains, in the walls, stairs, streets, and
pavements. Not one of the ancient buildings

XIV. J BCEOTIA. 223
can be traced ; though it is very possible that
some remains of them may be mixed with the
modern structures, or buried by them, and that
on the site of Lower Thebes to the southward of
the town, where they are more accessible, many
other valuable remains may still subsist below the
surface of the soil.
The village of Tabakidhes, on the eastern side
of Thebes, mentioned by Spon and Wheler, is no
longer in existence, but the church of St. Luke
still remains there, and contains the sorus, or great
stone coffin, vulgarly called the tomb of St. Luke.
The ten hexameters on one side of it, which have
been published by those travellers have suffered
an injury since their time, so that five or six
letters towards the middle of each line are no
longer legible. On the opposite side of the monu
ment are two other inscriptions which they did not
notice, one in hexameters, the other in trimeter
iambics. The three are all of different dates, but
relate to the same family. From that which was
copied by Wheler and Spon, it appears that the
monument was made by order of one Zosimus, to
contain the body of his son Nedymus, whose mo
ther was an Italian, named Adae '. The second
1 ^Krjvog /.(€>' yEVETrjpEg, ette'i ykpae karl davovai,
TEipSvTEg KXa'iEOKov avaiadririo irEpl rvplSio'
tyvxr) & kg to BUawv 'kfSr)' r)v B? ovvopa t ovpbv
'NfjBvpog, 'IraXiKrjg 'ABarjg irdlg 'IpEpog ovrtag.
Ovk rjprjv kpirpoadE iroXvv XP°V0V> e"lT' iyevriOriy
Elg bXlyiov eteiov kvapiOpiog, aararog alUjv
Ovk dvkBpaoTOv e'x<<"' 'tc^tov Bpopov, 7)aB' i\a\tv rig
Motpijg ravrr\v ekteXeoei, Kal yap (laaiXiJEg. Tavr'

224 BCEOTIA. [chap.
inscription in hexameters was in honour of the
same Nedymus, and was placed upon the sorus
by his son Zosimus, who reserved a place in the
receptacle for himself, and declared that any one
who should put any other body into it, should pay to
the treasury ten thousand denaria1. The third epi
taph was not inscribed until the death of the second
Zosimus, the body of whose son Nedymus had in
the mean time been deposited in it. The great
grandfather, Zosimus the first, seems to have had
a different sepulchre. In the third inscription the
tomb declares itself to be full, and closed, and
denounces the usual imprecation upon any one
who should open it2. The second inscription is
Tavr' kirkypaxpE irarrjp b Zuiaipog, e'ivek' kp£~w
' A£ipvr\aTov ex*"' ^vX^ ttoQov ddavdroio.
1 M.appapki] Xidog Etjui, (jrkpti) £' kv yaarkpi (pwra
Nr/Bvpov virvov 'kxovra, Kal kv dEiolai irapovra.
"Ov Bijpog xPva$ aT£(pava> 
BouX)) ravrbv kirpa^E 
Kftrat awpa Xkovrog 
Zuiaipog vlbg ZypaipE 
"Epirvovv <j>d£yyop£vnv aBEiHg 
"Ooric ci' hv ToXpq OkaOai vekvv Eig kpk vt]Bvv
Xoiplg tov iraiBbg irarkpog, bv £X<«> Kara yaorpoc,
AiiaEi Trj te ttoXei Kal tS rapEiio \Brjvapia~\ pvpia.
2 LTXijpjjc b (poprog kari pot, KaXtiig e'xei,
KfTrat yap vrjBvv Etc kpfiv 6 Nrjhvpog,
Kai tov te iraiBbg ira'ig yEywt; d Nr)Bvpog,
Tp'irog Be 7raiBbg vvv irarr/p b Ziiaipog.
Mutrtj/ 0£afv rig poi Botio Kal avp<j>vaiv,
"HvB' apr)yrj rig Etc &voi£,iv rr)v kpfjv,
Mr)r kXiriBiov bvairo, pr) tekvuiv airbpag,
'AXX' EyyEJ'tSc 6'Xotro ir\r)p£i£iav ylvog.
V. Inscription No. 40.

XIV. J BCEOTIA. 225
imperfect at the end of several of the lines ; the
third is nearly complete. The monument is of
white marble with a highly ornamented opercu
lum, the surface of which represents a covering of
leaves. But neither the letters nor the poetry
admit of a date anterior to A.D. 300.
The inscriptions in the town are neither nu
merous nor well preserved. Two of them relate
to Bacchus and his artists, that is to say, to the
persons employed in his service in the theatre 1.
A third is the sepulchral monument of a lady
named Sacunda, styled a female hero2. Below
this inscription is another in smaller character,
and apparently of a less ancient date. In this a
priestess of Isis, named Nicaeo, daughter of Aris-
ton, dedicates the Anthedonian coffin, (on which
the inscription is engraved,) declares it to be
sacred, that it shall not be used by her heirs, and
that any one who shall force it open, or pollute it,
shall pay 700 den aria to the goddess. It would
seem from this document, that Anthedon was
noted for producing stone, fitted for Xqvol, or stone
coffins, more commonly denominated aopoi. Of the
other inscriptions which I find here, the most re
markable are a fragment of names in the Bceotic
1 To koivov t&v irEpl tov Ai- "EirlSaKovvBaripuitBi. 'lEpa-
bvvaov texvit&v t&v kv Qr)(iaig (pbpog NEi/catoi 'Apiarwvog £<5aa
AioKXr)v Ttpoarpdrov Aiovvaig. Kal ijipovovaa rrjv 'AvQr\Boviav
V. Inscription, No. 41. Xr)vbv KXrjpovopoig kpolg pr)
 Aiovvaip dpETtjg irpoarjKEiv prjBk aXXa prjBlvi'
evekev Kal Evvoiag fjv i)(tov Bia- kdv Be Tig jiiaadpsvog dvolZq f]
teXei £t£ te rovg TEX^irag Kal piavrj pov rd upd, dirOTEiaEi rfj
rfjg Eig tov Oeov EbaE^Eiag. — E'itrt Bnvdpia E^ra/coVta. — V.
V. Inscription, No. 42. Inscription, No. 43.
VOL. II. Q -r-

226 BCEOTIA. [chap.
dialect 1, and the sepulchral monument of one
Chareas, qualified as an arch-physician and hero 2.
The only undoubted relic which I can discover
of the walls of Hellenic Thebes, now forms the
lowest part of the northern tower, just above the
plain. About thirty yards of the ancient work are
still traceable, and four or five courses are visible,
if courses they can be called, the masonry of
which, like that of Tiryns, is formed of very
roughly hewn masses of stone, originally fitted in
the intervals with smaller stones, which have
mostly fallen out. This wall is not straight, but
forms a curve. Its masonry, its curved form, but
above all its thickness, which is more than twenty-
eight feet, seem to prove that in antiquity it may
vie with Mycenae, or even with that of the Tipvvdiov
irX'ivQevpa3 , which it most resembles. Another
monument, apparently of remote times, is found
to the eastward of the town, not far to the south
ward of the church of St. Luke.
It is a barrow of a form, which, '
though rare, is not unexampled —
in Greece, having a double slope
thus. In the absence of remains of art, it is only by
means of the land-marks of nature that we can
hope to trace the ancient topography of this city 4.
Besides the hill of the Cadmeia, which is well
defined on every side, the only natural features
1 V. Inscription, No. 45. 4 See a sketch of Thebes at
2 'E7rt Xapc'a a'px'arp&j {jpci. the end of Vol. IV.
— V. Inscription, No. 47.
8 E quodam poet& ap.
Hesych. in voce.

XIV. J BCEOTIA. 227
that can be recognized are those celebrated rivers
and fountains which first attracted inhabitants to
the site, and which contributed with other advan
tages to make Thebes the chief city of Bceotia.
Three torrents traverse the site, and flow northward
into the plain of Thebes, one on either side of the
Cadmeian hill, having their origin in the low ridge,
which, two miles to the southward of the town,
begins to fall in that direction to the Asopus. The
third is a beautifully clear and copious pool of
water, in an artificial basin, situated at less than a
mile to the S.S.E. of the modern town. Its
stream flows to the plain through a ravine where
derivations are made from it at different levels, to
turn mills, and irrigate gardens, so that little
water remains in ordinary seasons at its entrance
into the plain. The small church of St. John1,
from which the river is named, stands exactly at
the fountain-head. The western river, named
Platziotissa 2 has a more constant course in the
plain, though, being considered the purest of the
Theban waters, no small quantity of its water is
diverted to supply the fountains of the town.
Several sources on, or adjacent to the ancient
site, yield their contributions to this stream, some
of which, in a country so subject as Greece is to
earthquakes, may not now issue from the earth in
the same positions as the fountains of ancient
Thebes. The two most remarkable are that of
Paraporti, which has already been noticed, and
another situated five or six hundred yards higher
1 'Aiavvr\g, i. e. "Aywg 'Ittidvvrjg. 2 ITXar^ife/ritrtra.
Q 2

228 BCEOTIA. [chap.
up the river, and, like Paraporti, near its right
bank. To the eastward of the ravine of the Ai
Ianni, distant a third of a mile from the town, is
the most copious of the Theban sources, a mo
dern Sto§£KaKjOowoc, issuing from the side of the
hill through twelve spouts. The place is called
St. Theodore1, and was described by Spon, in 1676,
as the handsomest of the suburbs of Thebes, but
of which three or four cottages only now remain.
The superfluous waters of these rivers and sources
serve to irrigate gardens, and plantations of cot
ton, tobacco, and kalambokki, in the plain to the
northward, and in summer are entirely consumed
in that manner : in winter they render the plain
marshy. Thebes had been thrice subverted when twenty
years after its last destruction by Alexander, or
in the year 315 B.C. Cassander, assisted by the
Athenians and by the people of Messene and
Megalopolis, in gratitude to their founder Epami-
nondas, restored the whole circuit of the walls,
and laid out new streets 2. Dicaearchus, who
wrote not long afterwards, thus describes the city.
" The site is level, the form circular3, with a cir-

1 A'idoBuipog, i. e. "Ayiog second Peloponnesian alliance
QEoBuipog. under some of the sons of the
2 Dicsearch. /ilog 'EXXdBog, seven chiefs who had been
p. 14. Strabo, p. 401. Dio- defeated before the walls of
dor. 1. 19, c. 54. Pausan. Thebes ; secondly, by the
Messen. c. 27. Bceot. c. 7. Thracians and Pelasgi, during
The three subversions of the Trojan war; and thirdly,
Thebes, alluded to by Dicaear- by Alexander.
chus, were by the Epigoni or 3 aroyyxiXr) r<ji axvpan.

xiv. J bceotia. 229
cumference of seventy stades. It is plentifully
provided with water, and abounds in green pastures
and fertile hills, and in gardens beyond any city
in Greece. Two rivers flow through the town, and
irrigate all the subjacent plain ; there is also a subter
raneous stream issuing from the Cadmeia through
conduits which are said to have been constructed
by Cadmus '. The abundance and coolness of the
water, the agreeable breezes, the verdant aspect of
the place, its gardens, fruits, and other produc
tions of the season, render Thebes a most agreea
ble residence in the summer2. In the winter, on
the contrary, it is very unpleasant, being destitute
of fuel, and constantly exposed to floods and winds.
It is then often covered with snow, and is very
muddy." Although seventy stades is the circuit
here ascribed to Thebes by Dicaearchus, he assigns
in his verses a much smaller extent, namely, forty-
three 3 ; and this number being in metre, and
consequently more free from suspicion of inac
curacy, was probably the reputed perimeter of the
walls, as Pausanias still traced them with their
seven gates, near 500 years afterwards. This cir
cuit was very nearly equal to that of the Asty, or
1 This may perhaps be the the adjacent country for its
fountain of Paraporti. The gardens ; and even supplies
conduits of Cadmus were pro- Athens with some of their pro
bably a fable. duce, particularly melons.
2 Thebes is still noted in
3 . . . VLEiTai B' kv pEooyEia irdvv KaXr)
IldXic;, pEydXat Qrjfiai, araBtbiv to iTEpipErpov
' Exovaa TErrapaKovra Kal irpoakrt rpiuiv. Dicsearch. v. 93.

230 bceotia. [chap.
upper town of Athens. In the seventy stades, Dicae-
archus may have intended perhaps to include the
suburbs and the gardens, to which he particularly
alludes1. After the time of Cassander, Thebes
suffered in common with the rest of Greece from
the contests of which it became the scene, especi
ally those between Rome and Macedonia ; its par
ticular calamities recommenced with the Mithrad-
atic war, when Sylla punished Thebes for taking
part against him, by presenting half its territory
to the Gods, as an atonement for his having plun
dered their treasuries at Olympus, Epidaurus and
Delphi. Although the Romans afterwards restored
their land to the Thebans, the city never recovered
from that calamity 2 ; but having largely shared, as
well as Chalcis, in the chastisement inflicted upon
the friends of Achaia by Mummius, after the cap
ture of Corinth 3, it was reduced to such a miser
able state in the time of Augustus, that it scarcely
deserved, according to Strabo, to be called a town*.
Near two centuries later, when Greece had a little
recovered under the Roman emperors, Pausanias
found Thebes occupying, as it now does, the Cad-
meia. In the decline of the empire, as the mari
time towns of Baeotia became exposed to hostility
or piracy, the population of this province was pro
bably in great measure concentrated in the advan-
1 It may be observed, how- vov irpoiixOnaav. — Pausan.
ever, that none of the distances Bceot. c. 7.
of Dicsearchus, as they stand 3 Epit. Liv. 1. 52.
in the text of his prose work, ' ohBk kwjujjc a'£toXoyou tvtcov
will bear examination. aiifavai. — Strabo, p. 403.
2 kg to dadEVoraror air' ekeI-

XIV. J BCEOTIA. 231
tageous internal positions of Thebes and Livadhia,
and the walls may then have been constructed,
which, with a succession of repairs, have subsisted
to the present time. In the fourth century Thebes
was in so respectable a state of defence, that
Alaric, impatient to reach Athens, would not
lose the time that a siege of Thebes would have
required ; and in the 12th century, it was of such
magnitude, that, according to Benjamin of Tudela,
the Jews alone amounted to 2000, who were " skil
ful workers in purple and scarlet." Under the
Turks, like all their towns, it has gradually de
clined. Although inhabited Thebes was confined to the
Cadmeia, when Pausanias visited the place, all the
principal monuments connected with Theban my
thology and history were still in existence, more
or less preserved. The following is an abstract of
their description by ,that traveller1. The road
from Plataea. entered at the gates Electrae ; the
other gates were the Prcetides, the Neitae or Nei
tides, the Crenaeae, the Hypsistae, the Ogygiae, and
the Homoloides. Not far from the gates (Electrae) 2
was a Polyandrium of the Thebans, who fell in
fighting against Alexander, and a little beyond it
the place3 where Cadmus produced men, by sowing
the teeth of the dragon which he slew at the foun
tain of Mars. To the right of the same gate was
the hill sacred to Apollo, who was surnamed Isme-
1 Pausan. Bceot. 8, 10, 11, other objects described were
12, 16, 17. all within the walls of Lower
2 It seems evident from the Thebes.
narrative, that this and the 3 xb>pl°v- — c- I°-

232 BCEOTIA. [chap.
nius, from the river flowing by it, which was more
anciently called Ladon. Before the entrance of
the temple was a rock, named the chair l of the
prophetess Manto, daughter of Tiresias ; and to
the right of it were statues in stone, supposed to
represent Enioche and Pyrrha, daughters of Creon.
At the entrance of the temple were statues in
marble of Minerva and Mercury, surnamed from
their situation Pronai ; the former was said to be
the work of Scopas, the latter of Phidias. The
temple contained a statue ofthe god byCanachus,
exactly resembling that made by the same artist
at Branchidae, except that it was of cedar instead
of brass. Among the tripods in the temple was
that dedicated by Amphitryon for his son Her
cules, when the latter officiated as Daphnephorus :
a young man remarkable for beauty and strength
was still chosen every year to fill this office.
Above (or beyond 2) the Ismenium was the foun
tain sacred to Mars, who placed it under the
guardianship of the dragon which was slain by
Cadmus 3 ; near the fountain was the tomb of
Caanthus.

1 Biippog. Thebes ; and Pausanias may
2 dvwTEpio. have adopted the opinion op-
3 This differs from Euri- posed to that received ,in the
pides, who describes the time of Euripides. The guides
dragon as the guardian of of Thebes found Pausanias a
Dirce, BpaKiov b yqy£vr)g Alp- good recipient of their stories.
Krjg vapdrtiiv kirioKoirog. — Phce- They showed him the cinders
niss. v. 938. In the course of of the funeral pile of the chil-
six centuries some difference dren of Amphion, and some
may have arisen on this ques- stones at the base of his tumu-
tion among the antiquaries of lus, which had been charmed

XIV.J BCEOTIA. 233
To the left of the gate Electrae were the ruins of
the house of Amphitryon, and the temple of Her
cules. The house of Amphitryon contained the
bed-chamber of Alcmena, said to have been the
work of Trophonius and Agamedes. Here, also,
was a monument of the children of Hercules by
Megara, a stone called Sophronister, said to have
been thrown at Hercules by Minerva, to prevent
him from slaying Amphitryon, the figures of
women named Pharmacidae in low relief 1, and
above the Sophronister an altar of Jupiter Spo-
dius made of the cinders of victims.
The temple of Hercules contained his image in
wood, which was supposed to be the work and
dedication of Daedalus, with another in white mar
ble, which was surnamed Promachus, and was
made by two Theban artists, Xenocrates and Eu-
bius. The aeti of the temple were adorned with
figures by Praxiteles, representing all the twelve
labours of Hercules, except the destruction of the
birds of Stymphalus, and the cleansing ofthe Eleian
land, instead of which there was the wrestling of
Hercules with Antaeus. Within the building were
colossal figures of Minerva and Hercules in relief2,
into that place by his singing dona. — (Boeot. c. 8.). Among
(ipBrj). He resisted, however, other contrivances of the e£ij-
the tale of the dragon's teeth ynral of Thebes, we have rea-
converted into men, and boldly son to believe that they altered
declares his disbelief that cer- or forged some of the inscrip-
tain sucking-pigs, which were tions on the monuments.
placed as sacrifices in the Me- ' kiri rvirov yvvaiKiov EiKovEg.
gara at Potnise, made their ap- — c. 11.
pearance the next year at Do- 2 KoXoaaoiig kiri rinrov.

234 BCEOTIA. [chap.
made of Pentelic marble by Alcamenes and dedi
cated by Thrasybulus and his comrades, when,
having proceeded from Thebes to Athens, they
there put an end to the tyranny of the Thirty.
Adjoining to the Heracleium ¦were the gymnasium
and the stadium of Hercules. There was an altar
at Thebes of Apollo Polius ; and an altar in the
open air, with a statue of Minerva bearing the
Phoenician epithet of Onga, and said to have been
dedicated by Cadmus \ This statue had formerly
stood in a temple, which appears from iEschylus
to have been without the city, near one of the
gates2. As the ancient Acropolis was the onty inha
bited part of Thebes when it was visited by Pau
sanias, the Agora of that time contained some of
the most ancient monuments of the Cadmeia ; a
part of it was supposed to occupy the exact site of
the habitation of Cadmus 3. Here were shown
1 It appears from Sophocles IluXaio-t yEiThiv. — v. 507. Ste-
(irpbg IlaXXa'cSoc BiirXolg vaolg, phan. in 'Oy/catat. Hesych. in
CEdip. Tyr. v. 20), that there "Oyya. This name shows, adds
were two temples of Minerva Pausanias, that Cadmus was
at Thebes, in one of which, not from Egypt but Phoenicia ;
according to the scholiast, she a fact still more strongly sup-
was surnamed Oncsea, in the ported by his introduction of
other Ismenia. See also for the the alphabet.
temple of Onca, Schol. in Eu- 3 It was doubtless not here,
rip. Phoen. v. 1069. but in the more ancient Agora
2 dvaaa' "OyKa xpb irbXEbig. in Lower Thebes, that a mag-
— jEsch. Sept. adv. Th. v. 170. nificent stoa was erected after
V. Schol. ibid. yrirovag 7ruXae the battle of Delium, as related
£X'«'j'"Oy/ca£'A0a'j'ac. — v. 492. by Diodorus (1. 2, c. 70.)
"Oy/ca LTaXXafi rJT dyxtVroXtc

XIV.] BCEOTIA. 235
ruins of the bedchambers of Harmonia and Semele;
the place where the Muses sang at the wedding of
Harmonia, and a piece of wood adorned with brass
by Polydorus, said to have fallen from heaven
when Semele was stricken with lightning, and
named Bacchus Cadmeius : also three statues ;
one of Bacchus in solid brass, by Onassimedes ;
with an altar wrought by the sons of Praxiteles ;
the second of Pronomus, a celebrated improver of
the flute, and composer of music for that instru
ment ; and the third of Epaminondas. Near the
latter was the temple of Amnion, containing a
statue by Calamis, dedicated by Pindar ; also a
triangular pillar, upon which was engraved an
ode of Pindar, addressed to the Ammonii, and
near it an altar dedicated by Ptolemy, son of
Lagus. Near this temple was the place of augury,
where Teiresias observed the flight of birds, and
a temple of Fortune, whose statue, bearing the
child Plutus, was the work of Callistonicus of
Thebes, except the face and hands, which were
made by Xenophon of Athens. There were also
three wooden statues of Venus with the sur
names of Urania, Pandemus, and Apostrophia,
said to have been formed from the beaks of
the ships of Cadmus, and to have been dedi
cated by Harmonia. There had formerly been
a temple of Ceres Thesmophorus, and a house
of the descendants of Cadmus, but a bust only
of Ceres remained, and some brazen shields
said to be those of Lacedaemonian officers who
had fallen at Leuctra. TSfear the gates Prce-
8

236 BCEOTIA. [chap.
tides was the theatre1, and adjoining to it a
temple of Bacchus Lysius, which contained sta
tues of Bacchus and of Semele. Here were also
the ruins of the house of Lycus, monuments of
Semele, of the sons of Amphion and of the
daughters of Amphion, and a temple of Diana
Eucleia, whose statue was by Scopas. Within
the sanctuary were interred the two daughters of
Antipcenus, who had devoted themselves to death
for the public benefit in the war between Thebes
and Orchomenus ; and before the temple was the
figure of a lion, dedicated by Hercules, when he
had defeated the Orchomenii under their king
Erginus ; near it were statues of Apollo Boed-
romius and of Mercury Agoraeus, the latter pre
sented by Pindar. Half a stade distant from the
tombs of the children of Amphion was their fune
ral pile 2. Near (the heroum) of Amphitryon 3
were two statues in stone of Minerva Zosteria, so
called because Amphitryon here, armed himself
when he was proceeding against Chalcodon and

1 That the theatre was without (irpb) the gate Prcetis.
within the walls, appears from Plutarch (in Sylla) states that
Livy, in his narrative of some Sylla built a OvpeXri near the
transactions which occurred at fountain CEdipodium, for the
Thebes in the Macedonian war, spectacles which he exhibited ;
b.c. 196 : though it is evident but it was probably only a
at the same time from Pausa- temporary construction.
nias, that according to the 2 irvpd. — c. 17.
usual practice in Greece, it was 3 irXnaiov Be 'Aptyirpvuvog
not far from the gymnasium Bvo, &c.
and stadium, which were just

XIV. J BCEOTIA. 237
the Euboeenses. The monument of Zethus and
Amphion was a small barrow \
The funeral pile, as well as the objects subse
quently mentioned, were, probably, without the
walls. The tomb of Amphion certainly was, as
appears by a fact related by Pausanias 2, and
still more from iEschylus 3. From a comparison
of these authorities it seems to have stood in the
plain between the site of the gate Prcetis and the
northern extremity of the Cadmeia.
As the torrent, which forms the ditch of modern
Thebes to the eastward, and which marks the
extent of the Cadmeia in that direction, is much
the least considerable of the three rivulets of
Thebes, there can hardly be a doubt that the two
others were the two rivers of the tWoYayuoe noXig,
named Dirce and Ismenus *. That the Ismenus

1 7V£ X*5/^ ri ov P^Ya- fer some of the earth from the
2 The Thebans were in the tomb of Amphion and Zethus
habit of keeping watch over this to their own monument of
monument when the sun was Phocus and Antiope.
in Taurus, because an oracle 3 In the " Seven against
of Bacis had declared that the Thebes," he describes the fifth
Theban land would lose its chief as stationed before the
fertility if the people of Titho- northern gate, at the tomb of
rea should at that season trans- Amphion.
Trpoarax^Evra (ioppatatg irvXaig
Tvpjiov Kaf avrov BioyEvovg 'Apipiovog. — v. 532.
4 Aiirorapov "iva iroXiv pdXui. Supp. v. 62 1 .
AiBvpuiv irorapoiv irbpov dpifi piaov_
AlpKag, xXo£porp(50ov h tteB'iov
IlpoVap 'lapnvov KaraBevEi. Phcen. v. 832.
V. et Bacchae, v. 5 Here. Fur. v. 572.

238 BCEOTIA. [chap.
was the eastern is manifest from Euripides, who
represents Theseus as directing his herald in pro
ceeding from Eleusis to Thebes to cross the Aso
pus and then the Ismenus '. But Pausanias is
still more conclusive, by describing the Ismenus
as situated to the right of the gate Electrae, en
tering Thebes from Plataea, and the Dirce as
crossed in the road which led from the gates
Neitides towards the mountain of the Sphinx2.
The Ismenus, therefore, was the river now called
Ai Ianni, and the Dirce the Platziotissa or western
stream. The middle torrent may have been the
Cnopus, for this was the name of a river, and of a
village, (called also Cnopia,) through which the
river flowed, and which was near Thebes on its
southern side, exactly in the position of the torrent
towards its sources 3.
In approaching Thebes from the south, ancient
foundations are first seen at about a mile in direct
distance from the modern town. Here I observed
1 'EXBuiv 0s' virkp t 'Aaoiirbv '\apr\vov 0' vBiop
—Epvo) rvpdvvif <ppd£e KaBpEtoiv rdBe. Supp. v. 383.
2 Pausan. Boeot. c. 25, 26. much greater, in supposing the
3 Compare Strabo, p. 404. river to flow to the lake Copais.
Pausan. Boeot. c. 9. Schol. The Ismenus had, indeed, ac-
Nicand. Theriac. v. 889. The cording to Pausanias, another
last author supposes the Isme- name, but it was Ladon, not
nus and Cnopus to have been Cnopus. See in the Additional
the same river ; but in regard Notes at the end of Vol. IV.
to two torrents so near to each some remarks on the suburbs
other, he may easily have made of Thebes, in reference to page
a slight mistake, as he is guilty 323 of this Volume.
in common with his poet of a

XIV. J BCEOTIA. 239
some remains of Hellenic walls, and an oblong
quadrangular well or pit excavated in the rock.
According to the data of Dicaearchus and Pausa
nias, this was nearly the situation of the Electris
or gate entering lower Thebes from the southward,
for this point being a mile and a half distant from
the northern extremity of the Cadmeia, and the
city having been nearly circular, the circumference
would thus have been 4-7 miles, which, measured
along the ramparts, would be not very different
from the 43 stades of Dicaearchus \ As the source
of the Ismenus was no more than three quarters of
a mile from the Cadmeia, and not so much from
the river Dirce, it is evident that both that source,
and a part of the course of the Dirce must have been
included within the walls, if we comply with the
conditions of Dicaearchus2, which will require a dia
meter from east to west of at least a mile and a half;
a distance confirmed by the remark of the same au
thor, that two rivers flowed through the city 2. On
the other hand, it appears from iEschylus that the
Ismenus at its entrance into the plain was without
the walls, for he describes Tydeus, when present
ing himself opposite the gate Prcetides, which led
to Chalcis, as halting on the bank of the Ismenus,
and forbearing to cross, because the sacrifices were

1 It would still be some- length of the ramparts could
thing less at the rate of 8 have been, at that valuation of
stades to a mile ; but at Athens, the stade, so great as Thucy-
in like manner, on examining dides asserts.
the site, there is difficulty in 2 irorapol piovai Si avrrjg
conceiving that the aggregate Bio. — p. 15.

240 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
unpropitious '. The same may be inferred from
Euripides, who, in describing the military posi
tion of Theseus, when after the return of his mes
senger he marched in person at the head of the
Athenians to recover from Creon the unburied
bodies of the Argives, represents the infantry as
drawn up on the heights along the Ismenus, the
cavalry as occupying the extremity of the line
near the fountain of Mars, (meaning one of the
fountains of Dirce,) and the chariots on the right
near the tomb of Amphion \ Thus the army
invested Thebes on every side, except to the north
west. The infantry was well protected in front
by the ravine of the Ismenus, and the chariots
were very properly stationed in the plain, where
alone they could act. Even the messenger who
describes the battle seems to have been well placed
on a tower near the gate Electrae, which was toward
the centre of the line and on ground commanding
a view of the greater part of the site of Thebes.
The seven gates of Thebes are alluded to by
1 TvBevq pkv tfBrj irpbg irvXaiat LTpotrto-t
Bpsp;£i, iropov ci' 'laprtvbv ovk kq. irEpqv
'O pdvrig' ov yap aipdyia yivErai KaXd.
* * * *
Bogi 7rap' &x9ai£ iroraplaig pdxvs kpSiv.
Sept. adv. Th. v. 383.
' 'OpS cSe (jivXa rpta rpiSiv arpaTEvpariov,
TEVXEaipbpov pkv Xabv ekteivovt dvui
'laprjvtov irap' bx&ov,
* » * *
Kpr/fT/v 7rap' avrr)v "ApEoe liriroTriv bxXov
Ilpoe Kpa<r7T£c5oio-i arpaTOirkSov TEraypkvov
"laovg dpiOpbv, hppdriov B' oxvp"-™
"E)/£p0£ OEpv&v pvnpdritiv 'Apiplovog, — Supp. v. 653,

XIV. J

BCEOTIA.

241

Homer and Hesiod ", and frequently by Pindar
and the Athenian poets : six of them are named
by iEschylus and Euripides 2, and all the seven
by Apollodorus and Statius 3, as well as by Pau
sanias. But none of these five authors are in exact
agreement as to the names, or have observed any
regular order in naming them : of three gates, how
ever, we have nearly the situation by knowing the
places to which they conducted. These are, the
Electris, Proetis, and Neitis ; of which the first led
to Plataea, the second to Chalcis, the third to
Onchestus. The Neitis seems to have been not far
to the westward of the northern extremitv of the

1 Homer. Od. A. v. 262.
Hesiod. Op. v. 161.
2 jEschyl. Sept. adv. Th. v.
381, et seq. Eurip. Phcen.
v. 1111, et seq. The six gates
of iEschylus are as follow, and
in that order : Proetides, Elec
trae, Neitides, Oncaides, Bop-
p£~iai iriXai, Homoloides. Those
of Euripides are Neitides, Proe
tides, Ogygise, Homoloides,
Crenseae, Electrae. Both poets
allude to the remaining gate as
the 'ifiSopai irvXai, without
naming it ; but if Hesychius
(in "OyKag 'AOrivag) is right in
identifying the Oncais with the
Ogygia, it would seem that the
Crenasa was the seventh gate
of iEschylus, and the northern
the seventh gate of Euri
pides. In this case, too, Hip-
pomedon and Polynices attack
the same gates in both tra-
VuL. II, ]

gedies ; though it must be con
fessed that not much stress can
be laid on this coincidence, as,
with the exception of Capa-
neus at the Electris, the two
poets differ as to the other
chiefs. And thus also the gates
of the two Athenians will agree
with those of the traveller and
avToirrrig, (these being the three
authorities most worthy of at
tention on this question) ; pro
vided we suppose the Hypsis-
tae of Pausanias to be identi
fied with the Borreiae, or north
ern gate. Indeed, it is highly
probable that the temple of
Jupiter Hypsistus, which gave
name to the gate, was in the
Cadmeia, as the northern gate
must have been.
3 Apollod. 1. 3, c. 6. Stat.
Theb. 1. 8, v. 355. -s-

242 BCEOTIA. [chap-
Cadmeia, for Pausanias describes three monu
ments in succession between it and the crossing of
the river Dirce, thereby indicating a considerable
interval between the gate and that crossing, which
agrees with the actual course of the river at its
entrance into the plain, whereas farther up the
valley the river flows immediately at the foot of
the Cadmeian hill.
The Homolois may be placed on the same side
of Thebes, having been the gate through which
the Thebans re-entered the city, when they were
recalled by Thersandrus from Homole in Thessaly,
whither they had fled after the victory of the
Epigoni at Glisas.
Without the gate Prcetis, on the road to Chal-
cis, were the monuments of Melanippus and Ty-
deus ', then the tomb of the sons of CEdipus, and
fifteen stades beyond them a cenotaph of Teire-
sias 2. Pausanias then observes, that the Thebans
possessed a tomb of Hector, at the fountain OEdi-
podia, which was so called because GSdipus there
washed himself after the murder of his father, and
that they brought thither from Troy the bones of
Hector by command of the Oracle, which directed
them also to honour him as a hero. Near the
same fountain was the tomb of Asphodicus, who
was said by the Thebans to have slain Partheno-
paeus, one of the seven chiefs. Although the
mention of these monuments by Pausanias fol
lows that of the cenotaph of Teiresias, there is
great reason to believe that they were much less
than 15 stades distant from the city ; as well
1 TvSiog, bv 9//j3i}<ri Xur^ KaTa yata koXvittei. — II. IS. v. 114.
2 Pausan. Boeot. c. 18.

XIV. J BCEOTIA. 243
from the words of the oracle as from the tori
9r)j3aioic with which Pausanias introduces the men
tion of the tomb of Hector, and equally so from the
story attached both to the tomb and the fountain.
On this supposition the fountain of St. Theodore
agrees in situation with that of the CEdipodia. The
source, according to Spon, was supplied from the
head of the Ismenus1 ; but even this would not be
inconsistent with the words of Pausanias, who de
scribes the Gjldipodia as a Kprjvrj, or constructed
fountain. I am more disposed, however, to believe
that the fountain of St. Theodore is, in part at least,
a vein of water separate from thelsmenus, and which
still flows perhaps in the ancient conduits. That
the CEdipodia was, like the fountain of St. Theo
dore, to the right of the road to Chalcis, is sup
ported by the observation of Pausanias as to the
Gymnasium, Stadium, and Hippodrome. " Before
the gates Prcetides," he says, " theThebans have a
gymnasium called the Gymnasium of Iolaus, and
a stadium which resembles those of Olympia and
Epidaurus, being a heap of earth. There also is
the heroum of Iolaus. Beyond the stadium to the
" right is the Hippodrome, which contains the monu
ment of Pindar. From thence there is a road to
Acraephium, for the most part plain 2," &c. The
three constructions here mentioned must have
occupied a large space of ground, and seem to
have filled up all the space between the roads to
Chalcis and to Acraephium, the direct route to
which latter town, as well as to Hyle and Asple
don, led probably through the northern gate.
1 Voyage, Vol. II. p. 55. 2 Boeot. c. 23.
R 2

244 BCEOTIA. , [chap.
The remaining objects described by Pausanias
in the vicinity of Thebes were on the north-west
ern side. Very near the gate Neitides was
the tomb of Menceceus, son of Creon, and a
little farther a monument of stone representing
a shield upon a column, which marked the place
where the two sons of CEdipus slew each other,
and then the Syrma of Antigone, so called be
cause Antigone being unable to carry, here dragged,
the dead body of Polynices to the funeral pile
of Eteocles. On the opposite side of the river
Dirce were ruins of the house of Pindar, and
a temple of Dindymene, containing a seated sta
tue of the goddess, of Pentelic marble, dedicated
,by Pindar, and the joint work of Aristomedes and
Socrates, artists of Thebes. In the road which
issued at the gate Neitides was a temple of The
mis, with a statue in white marble, then temples
of the Fates and of Jupiter Agoraeus ; the former
without any statue, the latter containing the deity
in stone. A little farther was a Hercules, surnamed
Rhinocolustes, because he (here) cut the noses of
the heralds of the Orchomenii. Twenty-five stades
beyond it was the grove of Ceres Cabeiria and
Proserpine, into which the initiated only were
allowed to enter, and seven stades farther a temple
of the Cabeiri, to the right of which was the
Teneric plain, and to the left a road, which, at
the end of fifty stades, conducted to Thespiae 1.
Dec. 21.— From Thebes to 'Egripo.— At 10.27,
quitting the eastern extremity of Thebes, I leave,
at 10.33, the fountain of St. Theodore on the
1 Boeot. c. 25, 26.

XIV. J BCEOTIA. 245
right, and at 10.50 the road to Bratzi, a branch of
which leads to Sykamino. At 11.15 an ancient
foundation, called by the modern Thebans " the
Gates1," crosses the road. A mile before arriving
at this place, we begin to descend a low root of
the Psilirakhi, advancing into the plain in the
direction of the heights of Moritzi, which latter are
connected eastward with the mountain of Siamata.
At 11. 21, the nearest point of a low rocky hill,
small but conspicuous from its insulated position in
the plain, is three or four hundred yards on the left ;
its termination at the opposite end is more abrupt,
and is there separated only by a narrow continuation
of the plain of Thebes from the foot of Hypatus
or the mountain of Siamata. This low hill seems
to correspond exactly to that Teumessus, which
was on the road from Thebes to Chalcis 2, in sight
from the walls of the Cadmeia 3, and which was
1 aralg Trbpraig. 2 Pausan. Boeot. c. 19.
nEpyct^twj' t air' opdiiov
AEvKaairiv EiaopiopEV 'ApyElwv arparbv
TEvprjaabv EKXiirbvra' Kal rdfypov irkXag,
Apopip ZwijipEv aarv KaBpEiag x^ovog.
Eurip. Phcen. v. 1105.
The scholiast here asserts rative geography. The name
that Teumessus was more than of Teumessus existed only in
100 stades distant from Thebes, the ancient authors : and anti-
and not in sight : and contends, quaries had probably applied it
therefore, that Euripides meant to the ruins of some other place,
not Teumessus itself, but a part perhaps those at Andritza, or
of its territory ; but the scho- those on the Platanaki, at the
liast was probably misinformed, foot of Mount Siamata, with
The Greeks of his time were either of which the distance of
seldom correct in their compa- 100 stades will nearly agree.

246 BCEOTIA. [chap.
described by the poet Antimachus as an rivtpouq
oXlyog X6(j>og, or little windy height 1 ; for its situa
tion between the two mountains cannot fail to ren
der it subject to the full force of the gales, both
from the east and the west. The rich surrounding
plain may also justify the epithet of At^^ron?, or
grassy, which the poet bestows upon Teumessus in
the Hymn to Apollo 2. Nor are the words of Pau
sanias, which place it exactly upon the route3,
adverse to the same conclusion, for our track is
not the most direct way to 'Egripo, but a winter
road, following the foot of the heights to the right
ofthe direct route. In the time of Pausanias there
remained at Teumessus only a temple of Minerva
Telchinia, without any statue.
At 11.30, after crossing a small cultivated bot
tom surrounded by low shrubby terminations of
Mount Soro, the road ascends a low ridge which
forms a junction between that mountain and the
otherwise insulated hill, the supposed Teumessus.
At 11.41 we begin to descend, and at 11.44 arrive
in the plain which forms a continuation of that of
Thebes, by means of the opening already noticed,
between the hill of Teumessus and Mount Hypatus,
where the plain is not more than half a mile in
breadth. At 11.50 Serghis is a mile and a half
on the left, on the slope of the mountain ; at
11.58 we are just below the centre of its sum
mit and near its lowest falls. At 12.10 Spak-
hidhes is half a mile on the right. At 12.35, two
1 Ap. Strab. p. 409. 3 kiri Tavrrf rfj XEwtyopip x«-
2 Hymn, in Apoll. v. 228, piov sort TEvpLnaaog.
v. supra, p. 218.

XIV. J BCEOTIA. 247
or three miles on the right, a ruined tower of mo
dern construction appears on the top of a rocky
height, which hides from view the village of An
dritza, where are some Hellenic remains, and a
copious source of water. The ridge connecting
Parnes with Cithaeron appears between the height
of Andritza and that of Soro.
We now ascend a low root of Mount Hypatus,
which is steep and rocky, or clothed only with
wild shrubs ; and after a delay of four minutes
cross, at 1.5, some Hellenic foundations. At 1.22
an ancient sorus is in the road, and near it a wall,
traversing the road obliquely : between this and a
fountain, where we arrive at 1.28, are other Hel
lenic foundations near the road side, and 200
yards on the left, above the right bank of a
torrent which descends from near Platanaki, a mo
nastery on the mountain, a small height retains
evident traces of the citadel of an ancient town.
The source of water and foundations probably mark
the position of the city walls, and the sorus may
have been one of the sepulchres outside the walls.
The fountain is on the right bank of the torrent,
which is now dry, but after rains unites with other
torrents, and joins the sea near Dhramisi. A road
along the left bank conducts to Bitzoni.
Having halted at the fountain till 1.57, we begin
to mount a ridge of hills connected to the north
ward with Mount Khtypa, which now appears on
the left. The road leads between two peaked
heights of the ridge by a natural pass, where to
the left are some remains of a wall of loose stones,
ascending from the road side to the summit of the
peak. The pass and ruined wall are conspicuous

248 EUBCEA. [chap.
objects in the surrounding country. Although
no towers are traceable, nor any squared blocks of
stone remain in their places, there can be little
doubt that this work is Hellenic, the wall having
been of the usual thickness, and consisting of the
rough materials of which the ancients usually
formed the interior of their masonry. On the right
hand, or eastern side of the pass, are vestiges of a
similar wall, which extend, as I am informed, as far
as the inclosure of an ancient city on the mountain
immediately opposite to the town of 'Egripo. It is
evident that the road from Thebes to the Euripus
must in all ages have led through this pass. At
2.26 on the summit of the pass a beautiful view
opens of the Euripus, of the town of 'Egripo, and
of a great part of the island of Eubcza. At 2.34
we begin to descend the mountain into the mari
time plain, and at 3.7 to cross that plain towards
'Egripo. It consists of open corn land, without
any trees, and is intersected with low rocks. The
falls of Mount Khtypa, which bound it to the
north-west, are also very rocky. The rocks in the
plain are of white marble, and are covered with
wild thyme. At 3.30 we pass along the shore of
the southern bay of 'Egripo, under the hill of Kara-
baba, and at its eastern extremity cross the bridge
of the Euripus into the kastro, or fortress, of
'Egripo. The current of the Euripus is running
to the southward very rapidly, with a visible dif
ference of level between the two sides of the
bridge. Having passed through the kastro, or
fortress, I proceed to the house of the Russian
consul, which is situated at the extremity of the
glacis.

xiv. J bceotia. 249
Beyond Teumessus Pausanias describes the road
from Thebes to Chalcis in terms of which the
following is the substance \ To the left of Teu
messus, seven stades farther, were the ruins of
Glisas, and near them, on the right of the road, a
small heap of earth shaded with wild, as well as
planted, trees : it was the burying-place of Pro-
machus, and other Argive chiefs slain in the
expedition of the Epigoni 2. On the direct road 3
from Thebes to Glisas was a place surrounded with
chosen stones 4, called the head of the Serpent.
Above Glisas rose Mount Hypatus, upon which
stood a temple 5 and statue of Jupiter Hypatus. A
torrent named Thermodon flowed from the moun
tain. Turning again towards Teumessus, and into
the road to Chalcis, occurred the monument of Chal-
codon, who was slain by Amphitryon, and farther
on 6 the ruins of Harma and those of Mycalessus.
On the sea-shore of the Mycalessia stood a temple
of Ceres Mycalessia, containing a statue of the
goddess. The temple was to the right of the
Euripus, which divides Euboea from Bceotia ; a
little farther in the same direction was Aulis. Here
stood a temple of Diana, and two statues in white
marble, one bearing torches, the other drawing a
bow. In the temple was preserved some of the
wood of the plane-tree mentioned by Homer. The
fountain also was shown where the plane grew,
1 Pausan. Bceot. c. 19. in the former expedition by at-
2 In the battle called that tacking a fortified town with-
of Glisas, where the Thebans out any knowledge of the art.
suffered for their imprudence in 3 Evdela.
meeting the superior forces of 4 Xt0oie Xoydoiv.
the Peloponnesians in the field, ' vabg.
as the Seven Chiefs had done 6 U,ijg.

250 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
and on a neighbouring hill the brazen foundation !
of the tent of Agamemnon. Before the temple
grew some date trees, the fruit of which ripened
better than in Ionia, though it was not so good as
the date of Palestine 2. The few inhabitants who
remained in Aulis were potters 3. Its territory, as
well as that of Harma and Mycalessus, was pos
sessed by the Tanagraei.
The principal question which arises from the
preceding abstract of the remarks of Pausanias is,
whether the ruins on the bank of the torrent of Pla-
tanaki are those of Glisas, or of Harma, Teumessus
being placed at the insulated height before men
tioned, and the Mycalessia having been the country
adjacent to the Euripus. The mountain of Siama
ta, which rises immediately above the ruins, and
in which the torrent flowing by them has its
origin, seems to decide that they were those of
Glisas, for the former answers exactly to Mount
Hypatus, and the latter to the Thermodon, in
regard to which we may remark, that there is no
other torrent flowing from the eastern or southern
side of this mountain, or that if any other could
be found, it~ would flow into the Theban plain
towards the lakes to the north of Thebes, whereas
it is evident from Herodotus that the Thermodon
had an easterly course, since he describes it as
having flowed between Tanagra and Glisas 4.
It may be objected to the positions of Teumes-
1 ovBbg x«^o5. 3 KEpapslg.
2 This is one among several 4 o cSe QEppiiBiov woTap.bg
passages in the works of Pau- Jjeei p£rai,v Tavdypr/g Kal FXi~
sanias, which show that he had aavrog. — Herodot. 1. 9, c. 43.
visited both those countries.

XIV. J BCEOTIA. 251
sus and Glisas here supposed, that the distance be
tween them is much greater than the seven stades
of Pausanias, consequently that if Glisas was on
the torrent of Platanaki, Teumessus could not have
been situated on the insulated height. But it
seems very unlikely that there should have been
an interval of no more than seven stades between
those two towns, for such they were in ancient
times, though when Pausanias travelled one was a
mere ruin, and the other only an insignificant
place. I conceive therefore that there is an error
in the distance, as stated in the text of Pausanias.
If Glisas stood on the torrent of Platanaki, Harma
occupied probably the important pass leading into
the maritime plain, where the existence of the
ancient wall affords a confirmation of all the three
positions in question.
As to Mycalessus, the proofs of its situation are :
— First, That Thucydides describes Mycalessus as
sixteen stades distant from the Hermaeum \ which
was on the sea-shore not far from the Euripus, as
will be more clearly shown hereafter. Secondly,
that the temple of Ceres Mycalessia was, according
to Pausanias, on the shore to the right of the
Euripus, by which he certainly meant the south,
since he afterwards describes the Anthedonia as
being to the left ofthe Euripus. It seems evident,
therefore, that the temple of Ceres stood on the
1 eic XaXKiBog rrjg Ev/Solag Xaduiv, irpbg t<5 'Eppuiu nvXl-
a.<t>' lairkpag BikirXEvae tov Eiipt- Keto' ottexei Be rrjg Mv/caXjjtr-
irov icai diro(ii(idoag kg rr)v aov EKKaiBEKa pdXiara arabiovg.
BoioiTiav i\y£v avrovg kiri Mi/- — Thucyd. 1. 7, c. 29.
/caX r\ aab v, Kal rr)v p.£i> vvKra

252 BCEOTIA. [chap.
shore of the southern bay of 'Egripo, and that
Mycalessus was the ancient city, of which the
ruined walls still remain, on the summit of the
height immediately above that bay. The connec
tion of its fortifications with those in the pass of
Harma by means of a long wall, tends to confirm
this opinion, for as the plain certainly belonged to
Mycalessus, it is not credible that Aulis, the only
other ancient place to which the ruins can be
ascribed, should have been in possession of the
pass which led into the plain. Moreover, Myca
lessus is described by Thucydides as a place of
importance, and its autonomous coins still exist ;
whereas Aulis, although a city in the Trojan
war, was chiefly known in after times as a
harbour. It is easy to conceive that the Mycalessii may
have entered into a compact with the people of
Harma for the common defence of their passes, or,
perhaps, that as Mycalessus still subsisted in the
time of Strabo, while Harma was deserted l, the
Mycalessii may have made the remains of Harma
serve for the defence of the pass leading into their
territory, and may have connected it for greater
security with their own fortifications. In the time
of Pausanias, Mycalessus was in ruins as well as
Harma 2. The objection to the position of Myca
lessus just indicated is, that Strabo places it on
1 Kal b MvKaXrjaabg Be Kuipri irEpl M.vKaXr)Tr6v. — Strabo, p.
rrjg Tavaypt/c^c;- /cstrat Be Trap' 404.
bbbv t!)v QijjoSiv £t£ XaXia'c'a ... ' 'E£,ijg Be ttoXeoiv kpEiirid
'Sic B' avruig Kal to "Appa kariv" Apparog KalM.vKaXrjoaov.
rijg TavaypiKijg Koipri 'iprjpog — Pausan. Boeot. c. 19.

XIV. J EUBCEA. 253
theroad from Thebes toChalcis, whereas itssupposed
ruins are near two miles to the right of that road ; but
Strabo seems to have been writing loosely of places
which he had never seen, and his words irap' oSov
do not imply that the ruins were exactly on the
road, but only near it. Indeed it would not be
easy to reconcile any situation on the road with
the testimony of Thucydides.
The Sanjak of 'Egripo includes the kazas of
Thebes, Athens, Livadhia, Salona, and Talanda,
but the revenues of all those places being ad
ministered by voivodas having annual appoint
ments from the Porte, the power of the Pasha in
time of peace hardly extends beyond the island.
He is now absent, and the government is in the
hands of a Musellim. The revenue of the Pashalik
amounts to about 400 purses, and is derived from
the sale of the dhekatia of all the lands not feudal,
or from the Spahiliks attached to the Pashalik,
from the customs and kharatj, from an excise on
grain and other objects of consumption, and from
bribes to permit the forbidden exportation of corn
and butter. The chief produce of the island is
wine ; from Cumae and Kastrevala. alone, 20,000
barrels of 54 okes are sent to Smyrna and the
Black Sea, of which the average price on the spot
is five piastres a barrel. Wheat and oil are ex
ported only in the years when the circumstances
of production and demand happen to be favora
ble. Vallonea, cotton, wool, pitch and turpen
tine, are also exported, but in small quantities.
The Russian consul has been obliged by his
superiors to exchange the agreeable residence of
Athens for this miserable place, not on account

254 EUBCEA. [chap.
of the commerce, which is very small, but because
it is the residence of the governor of this part of
Greece, and therefore better adapted to the pro
tection of the numerous Greek ships now sailing
under the Russian flag, or of those of the Septin-
sular Republic. As the best security against insult,
the consul has found it necessary to take into his
service, as janissary, a certain Hassan, who is
surnamed Karabeber, or Black Pepper, from his
swarthy complexion, and the fame which he ac
quired here in his youth, by killing many of his
fellow-citizens in those quarrels for which the
Turks of 'Egripo are notorious. Hassan has ac
quired so much influence, that last year he quelled
a mutiny of the people.
Both the Island of Euhoea and its chief town are
called ''E-y|Oi7roc, a manifest corruption of Evpnroe.,
and which the Turks pronounce Gribos, or Egribos.
The greater part of the best lands of the island are
owned by about thirty Turkish families, residing
principally in the Kastro of 'Egripo, which contains
about- 1000 others of the lower orders. These,
with 200 families in Karysto, Rovies, Oreos, Kas-
trevala and a few smaller places, compose the whole
Turkish population of the island. The Christians
are about five times as numerous, but in the
town of 'Egripo do not form above a third of the
inhabitants. Many of the houses in the outer town
are ruined and uninhabited, particularly on the
southern side : this is in great measure the effect
of the plague which lately raged here. The town
is supplied with water from wells, the best of which
was choked up on the 4th of last September, old
style, by the earth-brought down by a fall of rain,

XIV. J EUBCEA. 255
which lasted forty-eight hours. The famous Are-
thusa, which was disturbed in former ages by the
effect of earthquakes, has now totally disappeared1.
The only remains of ancient Chalcis I can find are
some fragments of white marble in the walls of
the mosques and houses, and the bust of a statue
in the wall of a house in the fortress. But it is
difficult to explore among these intolerant bar
barians. The lion of St. Mark remains over the gate of
the Kastro ; many of the better houses are of Vene
tian construction, and there is a church with a high
pointed roof, square tower, and Gothic windows,
which was probably built by the same people, as
they were in almost constant possession of this
place for the three centuries preceding its capture
by Mahomet II. in 1470 2. The most remarkable
Turkish monument is an enormous piece of ord
nance, like those of the Dardanelles, which de
fends the approach to the southern side of the
Kastro. This fortress is a construction of different ages ;
square towers erected before the invention of gun
powder are mixed with Venetian bastions of antique
construction, or with Turkish white-washed walls
and battlements. There is a dry ditch, intended to
be flooded at pleasure, but which is now filled with
rubbish. The glacis of the Castle is occupied by
1 iroXiv .... rag KXEivdg tained Oreos and Karysto ; and
'ApEdovaag. — Eurip. Iphig. in a French chieftain, to whom
Aul. v. 170. Strabo, p. 58. 'Egripo had been assigned,
Plin. H. N. 1. 4, c. 12. soon found it prudent to place
2 In the partition of Greece himself under the protection of
among the conquerors of the the powerful republic by be-
eastern empire, Venice ob- coming their vassal.

256 EUBCEA. [chap.
the Turkish burying-ground, beyond which is the
Christian town surrounded by walls, in a wretched
state of dilapidation, encircling the promontory of
the Kastro in a semi-lunar form from bay to bay ;
beyond these the Turks have lately thrown up a
pallisaded rampart of earth across the isthmus.
The bay on the northern side of 'Egripo is
called St. Minas ', that on the southern side
Vurko, or Vulko2, a name having reference to
its shallow and muddy nature. This bay com
municates by a narrow opening with a long wind
ing strait which extends about four miles to a second
narrow opening, where stands a tower upon a low
point of the Eubman coast, in the plain of Vasiliko.
No vessels except boats can approach 'Egripo on
the southern side, nearer than the tower. On
the north they have no difficulty in approaching,
as there is a depth of four orghies, or more
than 20 feet, near the walls ; nor is there said to
be any such danger in the anchorage as Livy
would lead one to suppose 3, though it cannot be
doubted that the entire strait between the island
and the main, is subject to violent squalls from
the mountains. The Euripus, which strictly
speaking is no more than the narrowest part of
the strait between the foot of Mount Karababa
1 "Aytoc Mnvdg. dejiciunt, et fretum ipsum Eu-
2 BovpKog, BoiiXKog. ripi non septies die sicut fama
3 Ex patenti utrimque coac- fert, temporibus statis recipro-
tum in angustias mare, speciem cat : sed temere in modum
intuenti primo gemini portus venti, nunc hue nunc illuc
in ora duo versi praebuerit : sed verso mari, velut monte prae-
haud facile alia infestior classi cipiti devolutus torrens rapitur :
statio est : nam et venti ab ita nee nocte nee die quies na-
utriusque tevrae praealtis mon- vibus datur. — Liv. 1. 28, c. 6.
tibus subiti ac procellosi se

XIV. J BCEOTIA. 257
and the western walls of the kastro is divided
as to its breadth into two unequal parts by a
small square castle, founded on a rock, and hav
ing a solid round tower at the north-western angle.
A stone bridge, 60 or 70 feet in length, connects
the Boeotian shore with this castle, the entrance into
which is by a drawbridge near the north-eastern
angle. Another wooden bridge about 35 feet long,
which may be raised at both ends for the purpose
of admitting the passage of vessels, communicates
from the small castle to the gate of the kastro,
which is in a tower projecting from the walls. The
inner channel is said always to afford a depth of
eight or nine feet : under the stone bridge the
water is much more shallow. 'Egripo having be
come more barbarous since Spon and Wheler tra
velled, it may be long before any person has such
an opportunity of observing the flux and reflux
of the strait as the Jesuit Babin, whose remarks
have been published by Coronelli, Spon, and
Wheler. He agrees with Livy, so far as to show
the error of the common opinion entertained by the
ancients, that the change of current occurred seven
times a day, but he does not confirm the ancient
historian as to its total irregularity, and its entire
dependence on the winds ; which, however, can
hardly fail to affect the reciprocation in some de
gree, by means of the local and temporary cur
rents which they cause in every part of the iEgaean.
Babin seems to have ascertained that the tide was
sometimes regular as in the ocean, and at other
times irregular ; and that both the regular and
irregular tides followed the phases of the moon,
vol. n. s

258 BCEOTIA. [chap.
though not to such a degree that the tides could
be predicted to within a day or two before or after
the changes ; the regular days were generally 19
in the month, the irregular 11, and the former
were in the first and third quarters, the latter in
the second and fourth. The Jesuit's facts seem to
have been chiefly derived from the millers of the
Euripus, but unfortunately the mills which are
below the arches of the stone bridge are no longer
worked. It is believed by the people of 'Egripo, that the
small castle on the rock in the Euripus did not
exist in the time ofthe Venetians, but was built
by the Turks soon after the conquest. Coronelli,
however, whose work was published in 1686, the
year before Athens was taken, and Negropont in
vested by the Venetians, states that the entrance
from Boeotia first crossed a bridge of stone of five
arches, about 30 paces long, that it then passed at
the foot of a tower of Venetian structure, over the
door of which the lion of St. Mark still remained
(though the Turks had then possessed the place
200 years), and entered the town over a wooden
drawbridge. These remarks seem sufficiently to
explain that the round tower is Venetian, and the
remaining part of the work Turkish, of which in
deed there is every appearance. The communica
tion from the bridge of stone to that over the inner
channel now passes, as I have already stated,
through the north-eastern angle of the castle, the
round tower remaining to the right, which agrees
with Coronelli.
The earliest construction of a bridge over the

xiv. J bceotia. 259
Euripus known from history occurred in the 21st
year of the Peloponnesian war, when the Euboeans
revolted from the Athenians1, and endeavoured
to obstruct the Euripus. On this occasion they
readily obtained assistance from the Boeotians,
whose general interest it was that ' ' Eubcea should
be an island for others, but a part of the continent
to them2." A great number of hands were em
ployed in narrowing the strait, so as not to leave
a passage for a single ship, but only the necessary
opening for the current between two towers which
were built at the extremity of the Sia^wo-ic, or mole
which was thrown up from either shore. As the
Athenians tried in vain to interrupt the work, and
both Boeotians and Euboeans are stated to have
joined earnestly in forwarding it, a part of its
effects may possibly remain to the present day.
The Boeotian mole probably extended across the
shallow channel, and included the rock upon which
the small castle stands.
During the expedition of Alexander the Great
into Asia, the Chalcidenses not only fortified the
bridge with towers, a wall, and gates, but, in
closing a place on the Boeotian side, called Cane-
thus, within the circuit of their city3, thus obtained
a fortified bridge head. Canethus, therefore, was
probably the hill of Karababa..
1 Thucyd. 1. 8, c. 95. Bidfiaaiv Kill tov irEpljioXov rrjg
2 K&KEivoig avjx<t>kpEiv rr)v irbXEwg rjv^naav kvrbg TEixovg
Evpoiav Elvai, rdig pkv dXXoig Xa/36vr£g tov te KavrjOov Kal
vrjaov, Eavroig B' ijirEipov. — rbv TLvpiirov, kiriaryaai'TEg rrj
Diodor. 1. 13, c. 47. yEipvpq irvpyovg /cat te1xoS Kal
3 Kara Be ty)v 'AXE^dvBpov irvXag. — Strabo, p. 447.
s 2

260 bceotia. [chap.
About 140 years afterwards, in the campaign of
the Romans against Antiochus in the year b. c.
192, the bridge seems no longer to have existed,
for Livy speaks of the Hermaeum before Salga-
neus as the ordinary place of passage into Boeotia,
and in describing the entrance of a body of Achaeans
into Chalcis, he employs the words, " tuto trans-
gressi Euripum Chalcidem pervenerunt1." Such
an expression is hardly suited to the passage of a
bridge to which there was no impediment. It is
probable, therefore, that the bridge had been re
moved between the reign of Alexander and the
Antiochian war. A fortified dependence of Chalcis
on the Boeotian shore may have been offensive to
the Boeotians, or to the Athenians, and sometimes
to both : and if the people of Chalcis were not
permitted to keep possession of that post, it may
not have suited their interests to maintain the
bridge. Twenty-five years afterwards, however, if we
may trust to Livy, a bridge had been thrown over
the Euripus ; for he states that P. iEmilius Paul-
lus, in his journey through Greece after the con
quest of Macedonia, found the Euripus in that
state2. But there may be some doubt whether
the historian's words in this place have been bor
rowed from the same accurate contemporary of
the events described by him, whom he usually fol
lowed, or whether they do not rather describe the
state of the Euripus in the time of the historian
1 Liv. 1. 35, c. 50. continentijunctae, descendit. —
2 Chalcidem ad spectaculum Liv. 45, c. 27.
EuripiEubceaeque insulae ponte

XI V.J BCEOTIA. 261
himself; when, as we learn from Strabo, there
was a bridge two plethra, or 200 Greek feet in
length, with a tower at each end, and a con
structed canal through the Euripus 1, whence it
would seem also, not only that no castle existed in
the strait at that time, but that the strait was broader
than it is at present. The o-vpi-y£, or canal, may
perhaps have been confined to the passage between
the intermediate rock, which must always have
existed, though Strabo has not noticed it, and
the entrance of Chalcis, and was probably nothing
more than a construction of masonry on either
side of that channel.
In the reign of Justinian the bridge had been
so much neglected, that there was only an occa
sional communication by wooden planks 2.
In the plain adjacent to the town of 'Egripo are
three ancient excavated cisterns of the usual sphe
roidal shape, lined with a coat of cement, and
having circular openings at the top. Each of these
has (what I have not seen elsewhere) an entrance
on one side. In one of them which is clear of
rubbish, a descent of steps appears, with an arched
passage cut through the rock leading into the body
of the cistern, which is small and not deep. It is
1 rrjv Evjioiav rpbirov nvd 'Eort S" eV' aiirio yitpvpa S'iitXe-
pkpog aiirijg (Bceotias) irEirolrj- dpog, tic E'iprjKa' itvpyog B' 1/ca-
KEV 6 Evpi7TO£ OVTO) OTEVOg SlV TEptlldEV £^>£OTJ)/C£J/, O flEV £K rijg
Kal yEipvpa avvE^Evypkvog irpbg XaXKiBog, 6 B" e/c rijg Botwriac"
avrfjv BiirXiQpa.- — Strabo, p. SmKoBbp-qrai B' Eig avrov av-
400. piyt— Ibid. p. 403.
Kat 6 Evpiirog B' karl irXn- 2 Procop. de jEdif. 1. 4,
aiov b XaXKtBtKog, etc bv airb c. 3.
—ovviov araB'ioi IfiSopriKovra.

262 BCEOTIA. [chap.
now converted into a church of St. John Prodromus,
and has a skreen and altar of rough stones. The
two other cisterns, though now choked with rub
bish, seem also to have been churches, as they bear
the names of two saints. Farther south, at the dis
tance of a mile from the town, are the ruins of an
aqueduct upon arches, which supplied Chalcis in
Roman times. Northward of the city the plain,
and then a cultivated slope, extend along the foot
of the mountains as far as Politika., a village near
the sea, distant four hours ; a little beyond which
begin those great cliffs which are so conspicuous
from many parts of Boeotia, and which border the
sea for several miles, admitting of no road along the
shore. To the southward of 'Egripo, midway be
tween it and the tower, which I have described as
defending the entrance of the narrow winding strait
leading from the southward to the bay of Vurko,
a round hill named Kalogheritza rises from the
shore, and commands a good view of the Euripus
and of the Euhoic frith, as far as Lipso northward,
and to a cape beyond Kalamo in Attica southward.
Mount Messapium, and the adjacent heights, ex
clude the view of all the interior of Boeotia except
the summit of Cithron, but to the northward
Cnemis is seen, and to the southward Parnes, with
Pentelicum appearing over the eastern part of its
ridge, and to the left of it Mount Oche in Euhoea.
Opposite to Kalogheritza, on the Boeotian coast,
are two bays, separated from each other by a rocky
peninsula ; the northern is small and winding, the
southern spreads at the end of a channel, into a
large circular basin. The latter harbour, as well
13

XIV. J BCEOTIA. 263
as a village situated a mile to the southward of* it,
is called Vathy, a name evidently derived from the
j3a0i>c Xiprjv, or larger port of Aulis, in which Strabo
supposes the fleet of Agamemnon to have been
anchored, because the small port of Aulis was in
adequate to receive more than fifty sail : the rocky
peninsula which separates the two harbours corres
ponds equally well with the Ai/Aic wt-Tpriiao-a of
Homer, and its distance from the Euripus agrees
with the testimony of Livy as to that of Aulis from
thence '. Nor, indeed, are there any other har
bours on the Boeotian coast to the southward,
which can raise a question on the subject. Dicae
archus, who like Strabo proceeds along the coast
from south to north, names the places in the fol
lowing order : Oropus, the temple of Amphiaraus,
Aulis, the promontory Emperesium and Euripus 2 ;
which not only confirms the other authorities as
to Aulis, but suggests also the probability that
1 Elra Ar)Xiov . . Tava- The last word is an evident
ypaiiov iroXlxviov, AvXiBog Bik- error, the distance in question
Xov araSiovg rpiaKovra . . . being near 700 stades.
Elra Xiprjv piyag bv KaXovai A Chalcide Aulidem trajicit
Badvv Xipkva : eIO' rj AvXlg tte- trium millium spatio distantem,
Tp<5c?££ xwP'0>' Kc" ™A"? Tava- portum inclitum statione quon-
ypaibiv' Xipr)v B' karl irEvrriKovTa dam mille navium Agamem-
irXoioig, &ar E'lKog rbv vavarad- noniae classis, Dianseque tem-
pov twv 'EXXr/vuiv kv ru pEyd- plum ubi navibus cursum ad
Xu virdp£,ai Xtpkvi. Kal b ~Ev- Trojam, filia victima aris ad-
ptn-oc # karl irXr}alov b XoXkiBi- mota, rex ille regum petiit. —
Kog, Eig bv euro Soi/vt'ov ardSioi Liv. 1. 45, c. 27.
kfiBopriKovTa. — Strabo, p. 403.
2 AwXt'e te Botwrwv iroXig, irpbg rj Xi/irjv
K' 'AprkpiSog Upbv dyiov, S XfyErai Kriaai
'Ayapkfiviav, eit 'EpirEpkaiov KaXovpEvov
'AKpbrarov, eit Eipiirog. Dicaearch. v. 88.

264

BCEOTIA.

[chap.

Emperesium was the peninsula which separates
port Vurko from the southern part of the Straits.
The space between the northern extremity of port
Vathy and the bay of Vurko is occupied by the
hill of Mycalessus. On the summit are the re
mains of an acropolis flanked with towers, and con
structed of masonry of the third species — to which
is attached, on the south-eastern side, the inclosure
of the town, built of a very rude kind of Hellenic
masonry, similar to that of the wall, which extends
from the acropolis to the pass of Harma.

CHALCIS in Eubcea,
now Egripo,
with the other places
near the
Euripus.

On the top of the hill of Kalogheritza are two
ruined round towers, formerly, perhaps, windmills,

XIV. J BCEOTIA. 265
and near them the foundations of a Hellenic wall,
with an ancient column lying on the ground. In
land the height falls to a plain, forming a junction
between that which incircles the town of 'Egripo
and the larger plain of Vasiliko, which extends
southward along the coast, almost to the ruins of
Eretria. Towards the sea the hill of Kalogheritza
is very rugged, and consists entirely of rock, in
which many sepulchral crypts have been exca
vated, some of them having circular roofs : here
also are stairs and niches cut out of the rock. A
copious stream issues from the foot of the rocks, and
flows immediately into the sea : and a paved road
here leads along the shore to the village of 'Aio
Nikola in the plain of Vasiliko. Possibly this hill
may be the site of a place named Lelantum, for
the plain behind it being exactly interposed be
tween those of Chalcis and Eretria, could hardly
have been any other than that plain of Lelantum
which was an object of such deadly contention be
tween the two rival states that a pillar still existed
in the time of Strabo in the temple of Diana Ama-
rysia, distant seven stades from Eretria, on which
there was an inscription declaring that no missiles
should be used in the war •. The plain of Lelantum
is mentioned in the Hymn to Apollo, and was famed
for its vineyards 2, and vines are so extensively pro-
1 arr)Xr] rig, <fipd£ovaa pr) xpvadai rriXEfioXoig. — Strabo, p. 448.
2 ¥Lr)vaiov B' kirkfi-rig vavaiKXEirrig Eiifioirjg
Urije B' kiri ArjXdvroi irEBlif. Hymn, in Apoll. v. 219.
0'ipoi avaXK£ir\g- diro pkv K.r)piv6og oXoiXe,
ArjXavrov B' dyadbv KEipETai o'ivoweBov. Theogn. v. 888.

266 BCEOTIA. [chap-
duced in the plain behind Kalogheritza, that a
village in the midst of them is named Ambelia.
It was only in the most populous and opulent
times that Eretria could maintain a rivalship with
Chalcis, which by its numerous colonies sent to
Italy, Sicily, and Thrace, and by its historical im
portance in every age, from the war of Troy to the
Roman conquest, is shown to have been one of the
most flourishing cities in Greece 1. Its silver coins
are still found in surprising numbers. Under the
successors of Alexander, when Greece became im
poverished, and its resources and population in
adequate to the maintenance of two large cities
at so short a distance from each other, the pecu
liar advantages of the position of Chalcis gave it
that superiority over Eretria which Strabo re
marked 2, and an increase of the same causes has
ended in making Chalcis the only town of any
magnitude in Eubcea. But the consequence of the
opposite fate of Chalcis and Eretria has been,
that at Chalcis scarcely any vestiges of antiquity
are found, while Eretria, by means of its desolation,
has preserved remains affording an interesting con
firmation of the former importance of the city.
Dec. 24. — Having recrossed the Euripus this
morning at 9, we follow the same road by which
we came, along the shore of the bay of Vurko,
with the height of Karababa on the right, for fif-
1 Dicaearchus describes Chal- three porticos adjacent to the
cis (about the year 300 B. C.) harbour. All the country
as being seventy stades in cir- around was planted with olives.
cumference, abounding in tern- 2 Nwi fikv ovv r) XaXk-lg <j>k-
ples, theatres, stoae, gymnasia, pErat ra 7rpw7-£ta 
pictures, and statues, and hav- c>£i/rEp£u£i B' r) 'EpErpt'a. — Stra-
ing an agora surrounded by bo, p. 448.

XIV.J BCEOTIA. 267
teen minutes ; then leaving the road to Thebes on
the left, cross the plain in a direction parallel to
the foot of the mountains with the sea on the
right. At 9.30, in a ruined church, is a fragment
of a large column, which may formerly have be
longed to the Hermaeum, or to the temple of Ceres
Mycalessia. Here are a series of wells, the direction
of which is towards the middle of the bay of Vurko.
They are very narrow, lined with stone and well
constructed, but do not appear to be of any great
antiquity. At 9.35 Akhalia is half a mile on
the right, not far from the sea ; the foot of the
lower heights of Mount Khtypa, the ancient Mes
sapium, are at the same distance on the left. The
intermediate level is well cultivated with corn,
which is just springing up. The plain narrows in
approaching Khtypa, and at 10 we reach the foot of
the mountain just where it descends in a rapid slope
from the summit quite to the shore.
Just in the angle where the plain terminates are
the remains of a Hellenic town, on the side of a
small port, directly under the highest summit of
the mountain. The citadel occupied a height
rising from the shore, ninety yards in length and
about fifty broad, and having a flat summit sloping
from the south-east towards the sea. The sides of
the hill, which are about fifty yards on the slope,
have been partly shaped by art, and then faced with
stone in the manner of some ancient places in Syria,
of which the castles of Hama and Aleppo are the
most remarkable examples. The facing of stone is
visible on every side except the north, where pro
bably it still exists, though now covered by an
alluvion of earth. Some remains of walls are

268 BCEOTIA. [chap.
visible on the crest of the summit, and a part of
the town walls on the south-eastern side of the
height. There can be little doubt that these are
remains of Salganeus, which, although unnoticed
by Pausanias, appears clearly from Dicaearchus
and Strabo to have been a Boeotian fortress,
situated between the Euripus and Anthedon l, at
the northern entrance of the narrow part of the
Euboic frith. According to Strabo, the name
was derived from the Boeotian pilot of Me-
gabazus, who was put to death by the Persian
commander, on suspicion that he was purposely
leading the fleet of Xerxes to destruction, because
no outlet appeared to the channel. Megabazus,
afterwards regretting his error, erected a monu
ment to the pilot in the place where his death oc
curred, and where the town afterwards stood.
I have already alluded to the mention of Salga
neus by Livy in his narrative of the military trans
actions in this quarter, between Antiochus and the
Romans *. The first measure of Antiochus, on his
arrival from Asia at Demetrias, was an attempt to
obtain possession of Chalcis in concert with his
allies the iEtolians. Having passed from Lamia
through Phocis, he met the ./IEtolians at Chaeroneia,
and then marched to Salganeus, from whence he
crossed by water to the harbour of Chalcis, accom
panied by the iEtolian chiefs. Having failed in
his endeavour to convince the magistrates of Chal
cis that it was for their interest to take part with
him against the Romans, he returned to Deme-
1 Dicaearch. ftiog 'EXXdBog, 2 Liv. 1. 35, c. 43, et seq.
p. 20. Strabo, p. 400, 403. >

XIV. J BCEOTIA. 269
trias, and in order to prevent succours from arriv
ing at Chalcis, sent thither his fleet, commanded
by Polyxenidas, and 3000 land forces under Me-
nippus, who encamped before Salganeus at the
Hermaeum, which was the ordinary place of tran
sit, into Eubcea \ They were too late to prevent
a small reinforcement of Achaeans and of troops
sent by Eumenes from entering Chalcis, but in
time to oblige Mictio of Chalcis, and 500 Romans
who were approaching with the same design from
the southward, to retire to Delium, from whence
it was their intention to cross the Euboic frith into
the island ; but Menippus, having surprized them
at Delium, and captured or slain a considerable
number, Antiochus, who had followed Menippus
into Bceotia, thereupon marched to Aulis, and
was admitted into Chalcis. The remaining Ro
mans then took possession of the castle of the
Euripus, while Salganeus was occupied by the
Achaeans and troops of Eumenes, who had retired
from Chalcis ; but Menippus, proceeding to besiege
the latter place, and the king the castle of the Eu
ripus, their opponents gave up the defence, and
left Antiochus in possession of all Eubcea.
From these circumstances, compared with the
distance of sixteen stades, which Thucydides has
assigned as that between the Hermaeum and My
calessus, it may be inferred that the Hermaeum, so
called we may suppose from a temple of Mercury,
stood on the shore between Salganeus and the
modern bridge, and that it was probably the ordi-
1 Ante Salganea ad Her- tia in Eubceam insulam est.
maeum, qua transitus ex Boeo- — Liv. 1. 35, c. 50.

270 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
nary place of passage because it was nearly oppo
site to the northern or principal harbour of Chal
cis. The fortress which Livy describes by the
words Euripi castellum, or in Euripo castellum,
or simply Euripus, would seem from this designa
tion to have occupied the site of the small castle
on the rock in the strait, but as many obvious dif
ficulties would arise from such a supposition, I am
inclined to think it was the same place as Cane-
thus, or the hill of Karababa.
Having quitted the ruins of Salganeus at 10.30,
I begin, in eight minutes, to ascend the cliffs
which now border the shore, and soon observe the
traces of chariot-wheels in the rock. At 10.42,
the road continuing to. follow the summit of the
cliffs, we arrive opposite to the southern extremity
of an island named Gaidharo-nisi, distant half a
mile from the coast, and which is a mile in length
from north to south. Upon it stands a square
tower, visible from Karababa, but not from the
town of 'Egripo ; ten minutes farther the road de
scends upon the sea-beach. At 11.4 are the foun
dations of a thick wall near the beach, parallel to
the water's edge. Here is a source of saltish
water. At 11.8 is another and more considerable
saline source, where are the ruins of some mills.
The wall, and the traces of wheels in the rock, are
vestiges of that road from Chalcis to Anthedon
which Dicaearchus has noticed, though his descrip
tion is not exactly in accordance with modern
appearances, for he represents the road as very
smooth ; instead of which it is like the shore, ex
tremely rugged where it passes over the rocks,

XIV. J BCEOTIA. 271
and where it follows the beach is liable to interrup
tion from the overhanging cliffs, fragments of
which often break off in such quantity as to render
the road impassable. Though Dicaearchus men
tions the sources of water, he does not remark that
they are chiefly saline ; and his description of the
mountain can only be made to answer to Mount
Khtypa by the omission of the word ov%, for this
mountain is lofty as well as steep \ At 11.12 the
pass terminates, and we enter on a slope covered with
lentisk and holly-oak, which is continued quite to
the summit ofthe mountain. At the head of the
slope, and just under the steep side of the summit,
stands the small village of Lukisi, towards which
I proceed after leaving at 11.15 the road to
Larmes branching to the right, and passing along
the foot of the slope near the sea. At 11.25 an
ancient foundation cut out of the rock is seen
crossing the road , to the left of which, three hun
dred yards from the road, is a church surrounded
with purnaria, in which are several ancient squared
stones, and an aghia trapeza formed of an ancient
sepulchral stone supported by part of a column.
On the stone, which has a simple decoration of
sculpture, is the name Kai(>io-6Swpa, in letters of the
best times. Leaving this place at 11.40, we con
tinue to ascend, when the remains of another
ancient wall occur at 11.48, and at 11.53 we
1 'E£ 'AvdrjBbvog Eig XaX/ct'cSa Be bpog oi>x v\pr)Xbv pkv Exovaa,
araSla d '. MexP' tov 2aXya- aX<r£<7t (aiiaKiov ?) Be Kal vBaai
vkhig bBbg irapd tov alyiaXbv irnyaioig Kardppvrov. — Dicae-
XEia te iraaa Kal paXaKrj, rrj arch, filog 'EXXa'cios, p. 19.
fikv KadyKovaa Eig ddXaaaav, rrj

272

BCEOTIA.

[CHAP.

arrive at Lukisi. Here the women, (the men being
all at work in the fields), having brought me seve
ral ancient coins which have been found in plough
ing the corn-fields at the iraXaid yfopa, or old town,
which is distant a mile and a half at the foot of the
slope on the sea side, I proceed thither, after
dining, and find considerable remains of an an
cient city.

AlVTHEDOIST

E ulX>vC

1,1. Are traces of the town wall, built with well
squared stones, of the most regular kind of masonry.
Its termination to the south-east I could not exactly
trace : the entire circuit of the city seems not to
have been more than 2000 yards. 2. An acropolis
situated on a small height terminating towards the
sea in cliffs ; on the brow of which are found large
pieces of the ancient wall ; other remains of the
wall are seen also on the land side of the acropolis.

XI V.J BCEOTIA. 273
3. Midway between the wall
of the town and the crest of
the height of the acropolis are
some cisterns of the usual form.
4. Part of the platform of
a public building, thirty-four
yards in length, founded in the sea ; and sup
ported on that side by quadrangular projecting
buttresses, of which four remain ; there was an
ascent of a few steps from the sea to the platform .
The port, in the midst of which this building
stood, was defended from the open sea on the north
by 5, a mole, connected with the northern wall of
the town, and built upon a projecting ledge of
rocks. All the foundations of the mole still re
main, and it was probably surmounted with a wall,
forming a continuation of the town wall. At 6,
are the foundations of a similar work of smaller
dimensions, the extremity of which approaches so
near to a small sandy island near the extremity of
the greater mole, as to suggest the probability that
the opening was occasionally closed by a chain, by
which the north-eastern part ofthe bay became a
kXuo-toq Xiprjv, or closed port ; it appears to have
been excluded from the city by a wall branch
ing from the western extremity of the northern
mole, passing behind the building No. 4, and ter
minating, perhaps, at the nearest part of the acro
polis. Strangers arriving by sea might thus have
access to the building, which was probably a temple,
without being admitted into the town, and the town
might resist after the port had been occupied by
an enemy. The town walls were defended to the
VOL. II. T

274 BCEOTIA. [chap.
west by the ravine of a torrent flowing from Mount
Messapium. There can be no question that these are ruins
of Anthedon, of the situation of which we have
several descriptions in ancient history. Accord
ing to a poet quoted by Athenaeus, Anthedon
stood on the sea coast, opposite to Eubcea, not
far from the Euripus '. Strabo places it on the
shore between Salganeus and Larymna near Mount
Messapium2, Pausanias describes it as a maritime
city at the foot of Mount Messapium to the left of
the Euripus 3, and Dicaearchus as a small town on
the Euboic sea, distant seventy stades from Chal
cis and one hundred and sixty from Thebes 4.
The soil on the slope of Mount Khtypa, around
Lukisi, and that which surrounds the Palea-khora,
is, as Dicaearchus remarks of the Anthedonia,
much better adapted to vines than to corn, though
there is very little of either at present. He adds,
that the inhabitants were chiefly mariners, ship
wrights, and fishermen, that they traded in fish,
purple, and sponges, and that they had an agora
surrounded with a double stoa, and planted with
trees. In the middle of the town, according to
Pausanias, was a Sacred Grove of the Cabeiri,
surrounding a temple of those deities, near which
was another dedicated to Ceres and Proserpine,
and containing their statues in white marble. On
the outside of the walls, on the land side, was a
1 'AvOqSiliv vvrig karlv kiri irXEvprjai OaXdaarig
' Avt'iov Ei//3otjjc oxeBov EuptVoto podiov.
Theolytus ap. Athen. 1. 7, c. 12.
2 Strabo, p. 400. 404, 405. " Dicaearch. filog "EXXdSog,
3 Pausan. Boeot. c. 22. p. 17.

XIV. J BCEOTIA. 275
temple of Bacchus, containing his statue ; and
near it tombs of the sons of Aloeus and Iphime-
deia, who were slain by Apollo. On the sea side
there was a place called " the leap of Glaucus1."
" It was from the Anthedonii," adds the Greek tra
veller, " that Pindar and iEschylus derived their
fables of Glaucus, who was a fisherman of Anthe
don, converted by the Anthedonii into a marine
deity, predicting futurity and delivering oracular
responses, which seafaring men still believe2."
It seems not unlikely that the building on the shore
of the harbour was a temple of Glaucus.
As to the vestiges of antiquity near Lukisi, it is
not impossible that the Nisa, or Isus, of Homer,
which latter name was still preserved near Anthe
don in the. time of Strabo, may have stood at
Lukisi, and that the modern name may preserve
remains of the ancient in its two last syllables.
Opposite to Anthedon on the coast of Euhoea is
Politika, from whence the coast to the north
ward consists for seven miles of lofty cliffs, termi
nating to the north in the remarkable peak called
Kandili. The distance of this mountain from the
site of Anthedon corresponds to the 120 stades
which Strabo assigns as the interval between An
thedon and a lofty mountain on which there was
a temple of Neptune iEgaeus. The city iEgae no
longer existed in his time, but it stood probably
towards Limni, as he states it to have been not
far from Orobice 3, now Rovies.
1 FXavKov irr)Sripa. cus. — V. Athen. ubi sup.
2 There were various other 3 Strabo, p. 405.
versions of the story of Glau-
t2

CHAPTER XV.
BCEOTIA.
From Anthedon to the Lake Paralimni — Cross Mount Ptoum —
Palea, Temple of Apollo Ptoius — Kokkino — Lake Copais —
Chasms of the Cephissus — Line of ancient Shafts above the
subterraneous River — Emissory — Valley of Larmes — La
rymna, upper and lowei — Return to Kokkino — Kardhitza,
Acraephium — Inscription's — Athamantium — Copae — Katavo
thra of Mount Phicium — Ancient Canal between the Lakes
Acraephis and Hylice — Hyle — Senzina — Lake Livadhi, Hy
lice — Return to Thebes — Schcenus — Eleon.
I had intended to have taken the road along the
sea-side to Larmes, and thence to Martino, but
the women at Lukisi having reported it imprac
ticable, I proceed by the Lake Paralimni to Kok
kino. At 1.32 cross the foundations of the town
walls of Anthedon, and immediately afterwards
the deep dry ravine of a torrent which descends
from the part of Mount Khtypa, above Lukisi ; on
its left bank are some foundations of an ancient
wall, the remains perhaps of a bridge. At 1.38,
on a height on the side of the same torrent are two
ruined churches, and the remains of two sepulchral
receptacles cut in the rock. From thence, after a
delay of 4 minutes, we continue to mount the
slope, and at 1.50 arrive at the summit of a ridge
which connects Mount Ptoum with the lower
heights of Messapium about Lukisi. Here are
several Hellenic foundations, belonging probably
to works for the defence of this pass, which was

CHAP. XV.] BCEOTIA. 277
on the road from Anthedon to Thebes. The
ascent on either side is easy, and the ridge is not
high, but it opens an extensive view between the
mountains Ptoum and Hypatus, and looks down
immediately upon the lake Paralimni, otherwise
called the lake of Moritzi. It is observable from
hence, that the length of this lake is in the direc
tion of a peaked hill, over which our road after
wards passes towards Kokkino, that the summit
of the mountain of Zagara is in the same line,
and that a little to the left of the latter appears
that of Faga.. After a loss of 5 minutes in the
descent, we arrive, at 2.35, opposite to the north
eastern end of the lake, and then leaving it on
the right, follow a rugged path along the last falls
of the Messapian ridges. From the opposite shore
rises the steep naked ridge of Mount Ptoum, of
which the modern name in this part is Strutzina.
To the northward of it is another summit ofthe same
range, called Skroponeri1, and to the southward
of it that named Palea. ; the former terminates in a
peaked cape two or three miles beyond Anthedon.
Continuing our route along the rocky foot of
the hills, we arrive at 2.48 at a part of the ancient
road, 200 feet long, excavated in the rock in the
form of a shallow trench, 5 feet 9 inches in breadth.
It winds in descending like a similar road be
tween Sparta and Helos 2 ; and though it retains
scarcely any of those marks of wheels which are
generally seen on the remains of ancient roads in
1 Such appeared to me to be bably derived from 2/copTrtfw,
the vulgar enunciation, though and means Scatterwater.
Meletius writes 2/cpt7roy£pt, like 2 See Travels in the Morea,
S/cpi7ro0. But the name is pro- vol. i. p. 1 94.

278 BCEOTIA. [chap.
Greece, there can be no doubt that it is a part of
that route for carriages described by Dicaearchus,
which led from Anthedon to Thebes, and which
was 160 stades in length. Having remained here
5 minutes, we emerge at 3.7 from between the
Messapian hills and the lake, into a plain sepa
rated only by a small rise from the plain of
Thebes. Moritzi is here half an hour on our left,
hid by the rising ground. At 3.30 other small
hills border the lake : at 3.35 there are traces of
ancient walls near the road, and at 3.45 we arrive
at the end of the lake, where on a low rocky
height close on the left of the road, are founda
tions of buildings formed of very large stones, and
having an appearance of remote antiquity. There
are traces also of an ancient wrall following the
foot of the hill towards the lake. It is evidently
the site of a Hellenic town.
From the head of the lake a plain begins,
which, widening to the westward, is bounded by
a mountain branching southward from Mount
Palea, and terminating in the plain of Thebes, at
the eastern extremity of the Livadhi, or lake of
Senzina, and thus separating from each other the
basins which contain the two lakes with their
adjacent plains.
Having left the ancient site by the -lake Para
limni at 3.56, we fall into the road from Thebes
to Talanda by Martino, and at 4.15 begin to
ascend the separating ridge above-mentioned,
which is very rugged : at 4.40 arrive at the sum
mit, where the steep rocks of Mount Palea, are
not far to the right, while on the left we look
down on the plain and lake of Senzina. Before

XV.J BCEOTIA. 279
us are the hills above Kardhitza together with a
part of the lake Cephissis, and the marshes bor
dering on it : beyond these appear Helicon and
Parnassus. We quit this spot at 5, and keeping
close under the precipices of Mount Palea, wind
round them to the right, until at 5.30 the road
passes a modern fountain, constructed chiefly of
ancient squared stones, mixed with stelae and
pedestals. Here stood formerly the monastery of
Palea, by which the adjacent summit of Mount
Ptoum is still known. The name seems to have
been derived from some Hellenic ruins once exist
ing here in greater quantity than at present, and
which may have given to the monastery the ap
pellation of v Havay'ia crrd LlaXaia, or " Our Lady
at the Antiquities." The ruins were probably
those of the temple of Apollo Ptous, or Ptoius ',
famous for an oracle delivered by a priestess, who
when consulted by Mardonius, replied to his mes
senger, who was a Carian, in his own language 2.
The oracle belonged to the Thebans, and ceased
when Thebes was destroyed by Alexander the
Great 3.
Kardhitza is now about half an hour below us
1 The epithet, according to Themisto, in which he is sup-
Plutarch (de Orac. defect.) was ported by Apollodorus, 1. 1,
derived from irTuiaaio, because c. 9.
Latona was here frightened by 2 Herodot. 1. 8, c. 135.
the sudden appearance of a Pausan. Boeot. c. 23.
serpent ; but Pausanias, who 3 irpo rijg 'AXE^dvBpov /cat
generally inclines to the heroic Ma/CEc'oVaij' ETrtorparEtac; /cat
origin of names, cites the poems SXkdpov tov Qriflaiwv pavriiov
of Asius to prove that Ptous i\v avrbdi dipEvSkg. — Pausan.
was the son of Athamas, by Boeot. c. 23.

280 BCEOTIA. [chap.
on the left, but having determined before proceed
ing thither to visit the subterraneous discharge of
the Cephissus, and to search for Larymna, I turn
from it to the right, descend by a winding course,
in order to avoid the rocky summits overhanging
Kokkino, and then leaving to the left the road to
Martino, turn under the northern side of the above-
mentioned cliffs, and arrive at Kokkino at 6.8. This
is a village of thirty houses, which as usual, in this
part of Greece, consist only of one apartment, serving
both for a stable and a lodging for the whole family.
The people are of Albanian origin, and use that
language among themselves, so that many of the
women are ignorant of the Greek : at Mazi and
Lukisi it was the same. The owner of the cottage
in which I lodge is said to possess several thousand
goats on Mount Ptoum, but dares not live better
than the other people of the village.
Dec. 25. — After having visited, this morning,
three small churches, a quarter of a mile to the
N.E. of Kokkino, where the village formerly stood,
and where I find only an altar with an ill-executed
ornament of metopes connected by festoons, and
a few other trifling remains of Hellenic times,
I proceed at 8.45 to the Katavothra of the Ce
phissus, descending the rugged hill till 9, when
in a ravine we rejoin the road from Thebes
to Martino, which we quitted yesterday evening.
Continue descending, and pass over a small plain
at the head of a bay of the lake Copais, which is
cultivated by the people of Kokkino, but in the
upper portion only, on account of the inundations to
which the lower part is subject. The lake abounds

XV. J BCEOTIA. 281
in fish, and its surface is now covered with wild
fowl, but the peasants reap no advantage either
from the one or the other, for want of the means of
catching or killing them ; the people of Topolia,
however, enjoy a profitable fishery in the lake,
and sometimes take, especially at the katavothra,
great quantities of those Copaic or Cephissic eels
renowned among the ancients1 for their bulk and
fatness, and which Pausanias commends from his
own experience2. At 9.18 we arrive on the
water's edge, and then ascending the rocky foot of
Mount Skroponeri arrive in three minutes more at
a great cavern, at the foot of a perpendicular rock
eighty feet high. It is the entrance of a low, dark,
subterraneous passage, one hundred and twelve
yards long, through which a part of the river or
current of the lake slowly flows, and rejoins the
rest of the river very near the entrance of the
south-easternmost of the katavothra 3. In summer
this cavern, or false katavothra, as it may be
called, is dry, and there is a passage through it
on foot ; but at present it is the resort of a mul
titude of fishes.
The south-eastern katavothra resembles the ca
vern in outward appearance, being an aperture at
the foot of a perpendicular rock of equal altitude.
But there is much more water here : the stream
which enters is about thirty feet broad, and four or
1 Aristoph. Acharn. v. 880. Eialv tfSiarai. — Pausan. Boeot.
et in pi. al. Archestrat. ap. c. 24.
Athen. 1. 7, c. 13. J. Poll. 3 rk Karajiodpa,  Hel-
1. 6, c. 10. lenice fidpaOpu, ^cipayyfe, viro-
2 at Sk kyxkXEig abrodi Kal vopoi, X"*"!* ara*
pEykdEi piyiarai, Kal kadiEiv

282 BCEOTIA. [chap.
five feet deep, and now entirely fills and conceals
the opening, which in summer is exposed. Now
that the lake extends as far as Topolia and fills all
this part of the basin, it is not easy to distinguish
the river from the inundation, unless from some
favourable position on the surrounding heights,
especially as the current flows not more rapidly
than a yard in a minute, and there is little
difference in the depth or colour of the water
in any part of this inner bay, which is divided
from the main body of the lake of Copae by a pro
jecting point under Kokkino, concealing Topolia
from the katavothra. I now ride over the rocky
foot of the mountain near the lake, and in twelve
minutes arrive at a second katavothra, situated
like the first at the end of an inlet of the lake ter
minating in a perpendicular cliff, but much smaller
both in the size of the stream and in the height of
the cliff, which is not more than twenty feet. The
stream flows rapidly into the cavern, and there is
a bank of loose stones across it, intended for catch
ing fish when the water is low. In summer the
inlet is quite dry, and often the river itself : all the
adjoining part of the lake is then converted into a
pasture, with cattle grazing on it. Two minutes
beyond the second katavothra is a third, at the foot
of a perpendicular rock of fifty feet ; here the course
of the river is well marked, having sand-banks on
either side, and a broad stream running into the
cavern. From hence, after riding for a quarter of
an hour along the lake northward, in search of
other subterraneous entrances, without finding any,
I return to the third katavothra and proceed from
thence to the emissory of the river in the valley of

XV. J BCEOTIA. 283
Larmes. For ten minutes the road mounts a stony
hollow between low hills of the same description,
after which the same vale is continued with a de
scending surface. The Cephissus pursues its sub
terraneous course in the same direction, as appears
by a line of quadrangular shafts or perpendicular
excavations in the rock, evidently made for the
purpose of clearing the subterraneous channel when
by some accident it had been obstructed, and had
thereby submerged, or endangered, a great part of
the fertile plain which extends to the sites of Acrae
phium, Haliartus, Tilphossium and Orchomenus.
The first shaft is at two minutes' distance from the
third katavothra. It is five feet eight inches
square, entirely excavated out of the rock, and is
filled with stones and earth to within a few feet of
the top. The second shaft, which is three minutes
farther, is clear to the depth of forty-five feet. The
third shaft is at three minutes' distance from the
last, and is filled at the depth of twenty feet. The
mouths of many of these shafts are concealed by
the bushes of lentisk and purnari which cover the
valley, but they are easily traced by means of the
mounds of earth and broken stones around them,
which were formed probably when the wells were
excavated. Their obstruction has obviously been
caused by their all lying, more or less, in the
course of the waters down the valley. The fourth
shaft is one minute beyond the third, and not less
than ninety feet in depth, with stones and earth at
the bottom, like the others. It diminishes gra
dually downwards, not in a straight line, but by a
succession of ledges. The second is constructed
in the same manner, and so are probably several of

284 BCEOTIA. [chap.
those which are filled. All are cut entirely through
the rock : some have small steps on either side of
one of the angles. The fifth shaft is one minute
beyond the fourth, and is entirely filled with the
earth and stones washed into it from the hills on
either side. Its situation, however, is ascertained
by the mounds around the hollow, and we may
infer, from the height and extent of the mounds,
that this shaft must have been the deepest of all.
Here in fact the valley is highest, and from hence
the ground descends all the way to the vale of the
lower Cephissus. The elevation I should conceive to
be at the utmost one hundred and eighty feet above
the level of the lake. The sixth shaft is at the same
distance of about one hundred yards from the fifth,
that the fifth is from the fourth : and, like the fifth,
it is quite filled. The seventh is in an exact line
with those preceding, but as the valley here takes
a turn to the left, this shaft is on the rocky foot of
the mountain, instead of being in the lowest part
of the vale. The engineers who undertook, by
means of these shafts, to clear the subterraneous
channel of the river, naturally proceeded upon the
supposition that the stream would run direct or
nearly so, from the entrance towards the issue, and
hence without regarding the nature of the ground
above, they proceeded to excavate the seventh shaft
in the same line with those preceding it. In form
ing it they probably discovered that the subterra
neous channel does not follow the straight line, but
conforms to the structure of the ground on the sur
face, turning in the direction of a ravine to the left ;
they continued, therefore, their work in that direc
tion to the eighth shaft, which is found in a point

XV. j BCEOTIA. 285
forming an angle to the left of the former line, at
the usual distance from the seventh, but just at the
entrance of the ravine, which is here closely con
fined by the adjoining rocky hills, and descends
rapidly. The seventh shaft is twenty feet deep,
the eighth, much ruined, about forty-five ; between
them to the right, in a little level which occupies
the corner at the turn of the valley, are foundations
of an oblong building, of large rough stones. The
ninth shaft, which is seventy or eighty feet deep,
occurs at the. usual distance ; the tenth at the same
distance, has a depth of twenty feet. The eleventh
at a like distance, is something less deep than the
ninth. The twelfth at a like distance, is about as
deep as the ninth. The thirteenth at an equal
distance, has the same depth as the last. Here
ends the ravine, which now opens upon a rugged
slope, descending into the valley of the lower
Cephissus, which lies to the right, and is hid
from view by a rugged point projecting from the
ridge of Skroponeri. The line of the shafts here
changes its direction towards the right, and three
more are found on the slope above mentioned, in a
direction bending towards the rocky point. The
distances between the thirteenth, fourteenth, fif
teenth, and sixteenth, are about double the former
intervals. Their depth is about ten feet. At the
fifteenth the valley widens, and the road to Larmes
continues to follow the slope leaving the rocky
point to the left, and entering the lower valley just
at the place where the river issues.
Its position relatively to the sixteenth shaft, in
dicates the direction of the subterraneous current

286 BCEOTIA. [chap.
under the rocky hill. The river emerges at the
foot of a precipice about thirty feet high, in many
small streams, which immediately unite and form
a river forty or fifty feet wide, and three or four
deep, flowing with great rapidity down the vale.
The road follows its right bank for sixteen minutes,
then crosses, on the same side, a rocky projection
of Mount Skroponeri, which is divided only by the
river from an equally abrupt termination of the
mountain on the western side of the vale, and in
ten minutes descends to a large old church, and the
mills of Larmes, which are turned by a canal de
rived from the river. Where we crossed the
height, the river is precipitated over the rocks for
a short distance with great rapidity. In very dry
summers it entirely fails, when the mills are scan
tily supplied by a fountain, which issues from a
rock on the right side of the rapid. From the mills
to the head of the bay, where the river joins the
sea, the distance is thirteen minutes, the stream
winding with rapidity through a small plain culti
vated with cotton. The fall of the river through
the subterraneous channel over the cataract, and
along the two valleys, can hardly amount to more
than a perpendicular of fifty feet.
In the valley above the cataract the river flows
through a thick copse of agnus-castus, and pro
duces a great quantity of water-cresses. In the
lower valley it is bordered with reeds and myrtles.
A steep peaked mountain rises on the left of the
river's mouth, behind which are the villages of
Martino and Malesina : the latter towards the sea,
Martino more inland. At about an hour and a
13

XV. J

BCEOTIA.

287

quarter beyond Martino is Proskyna, upon the
small stream which flows into the south-eastern
angle of the bay of Opus, and which I suppose to
be the Platanus, or Platanius, of Pausanias. Be
tween Martino and Proskyna, not far from the
latter, are the remains of an ancient city : probably
Corseia.
The ruins of Larymna are situated on a level
covered with bushes, on the shore of the Bay of
Larmes, ten minutes to the left of the mouth of
the Cephissus. The circuit of the walls is less than
a mile. The annexed sketch will give an idea of
the remains still existing. LARYMNA.

8

1. Is a small port, anciently closed in the manner here described.
2. The town wall, traceable all around. 3. Another wall
along the sea, likewise traceable. 4. A mole, in the sea. 5. Va
rious ancient foundations in the town and acropolis. 6. A
Sorus. 7. Glyfonero, or Salt Source. 8. An oblong founda
tion of an ancient building.

288 BCEOTIA. [chap.
The walls, which in one place are extant to near
half their height, are of a red soft stone, very much
corroded by the sea air, and in some places are
constructed of rough masses. The sorus is high,
with comparison to its length and breadth, and
stands in its original place upon the rocks : there
was an inscription upon it, and some ornaments of
sculpture, which are now quite defaced. The Gly-
fonero is a small deep pool of water, impregnated
with salt, and is considered by the peasants an
dytovkpi, or sacred water, because it is cathartic.
Meletius, who supposed it to be the lake Anchoe
mentioned by Strabo, states, that in his time per
sons resorted to the place in spring and autumn to
drink of the water, and to some of those, he adds,
who drank too much, it proved fatal. This coast,
as well as Euhoea, abounds in salt springs, and
Halo3 perhaps derived its name from similar
sources near it. Some ruins like those of La
rymna are said to exist at a church of St. John
Theologus, near the cape which projects to the
northward, beyond Malesina and Proskyna. They
are probably remains of Hales.
Upon the projection of Skroponeri, which sepa
rates the upper from the lower valley of Larmes, I
observed some foundations of Hellenic walls sur
rounding a height on the right hand side of the
road. These seem to have been merely the remains
of a small dependent fortress, commanding the
pass which led to the town.
On the rocks above the issue of the Cephissus,
the road from Kokkino to Larmes is crossed by
that from Lukisi to Martino. The latter, as I am
now informed, is by no means so bad as the women

XV. J BCEOTIA. 289
of Lukisi, for some reasons of their own, thought
proper to represent it. From Lukisi it crosses the
mountain which borders the valley of Anthedon to
the west, and descends upon a vale at the head of
the bay of Skroponeri, where are some copious
sources issuing not far from the shore of the bay,
and flowing into it. From thence the road crosses
Mount Skroponeri to the vale of Larmes. The dis
tance from Lukisi to Larmes is reckoned two hours
and a half.
Although the name Larmes, or Larnes, which is
applied as well to the ruins just described as to the
adjacent bay and valley, leaves little doubt that the
ruins are those of Larymna, yet, as Strabo men
tions two towns of that name, there may be some
doubt to which of them these remains are to be at
tributed. He observes, that the Cephissus broke
forth from its subterraneous channel at the Upper
Larymna, and joined the sea at the Lower La
rymna ; that Upper Larymna had belonged to
Locris until it was annexed to the Lower or Boeo
tian Larymna by the Romans ; that the place where
the river issued at Upper Larymna was called
Ancho'e, and that there was a lake of the same
name1 which, it is fair to presume from the etymo
logy of the word, was the same as that lake at
1 Meto. Be —aXyavia 'Avdri- Elra k^kpprj^Ev (Cephissus)
Buiv  Eteri pkvroi eti Etc rrjv kiriipdvEiav Kard Ad-
irpoibvTi pmpbv iroXlxvai Svo pvpvav rrjg AoKpiBog rrjv avui
tuiv BoiuitSiv, Adpvpvd te, trap' (Kal yap irkpa karlv big e'Iito/xev
r)v b Krjtyiaabg EKSiShiai Kal eti kiri Ttj OaXaTTn r) BoiuiriaKr) r\
EirEKEiva 'AXal bpuivvpoi ro'tg irpoaidEaav ol 'Puipaloi rr\v
'ArriKo'ig Bj)uoic.- — Strabo, p. avui). KaXEirai S" b rbirog
404, 405. Ayx°V iari Be Kal Xipvr)
VOL. II. U

290 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
Larymna, which Pausanias describes as a Xlpvri
dyyjijiaOrjQ, or a lake profound at the very margin1.
At Larmes, however, there is nothing resembling
a lake, except the small pool or source of salt water
near the ancient walls, which leads one to suspect
that Pausanias could not have alluded to Larmes
in describing Larymna, the more so as the words
v7r£jOj3aXovrtt)v to opoQ to Utwov, which he employs
in alluding to the road from Acraephium to Larymna,
would lead us to suppose that he crossed not merely
the low ridge between the Katavothra and the
emissory, but a part of Mount Skroponeri itself,
and that he really did so is the more probable
from his having made no mention of the lake
Copais on this occasion, or of the subterraneous
channel of the Cephissus, although the road from
Acraephium to Larymna, supposing his Larymna to
have been at Larmes, could not but have followed
the shore of the lake, and have passed both by
the entrance and exit of the subterraneous stream.
There is reason to suspect, therefore, that the La
rymna of Pausanias was not the town which stood
at Larmes, but another in the valley at the head of
the bay of Skroponeri ; that the Boeotian, or Lower
Larymna, was there situated, and that Larmes was
the site of the Upper, or Locrian Larymna. I can
not affirm, indeed, that there is a lake correspond
ing to the Ancho'e in the vale of Skroponeri2 ; nor if
bpiivvpog. evtevQev B' rjBtj 6 Xlpvr] Be aijiiaiv karlv <xyxi/3tt-
Kr]<j>iaabg EKBiBoiai kiri rr)v 8d- 6r)g. — Pausan. Boeot. c. 23.
Xar7av. — Strabo. p. 406, 407. 2 Stuart, in his notes of a
1 'XirEpfiaXbvToiv Sk to bpog to journey in this part of Bceotia
TLtGiov, eotiv kiri 6aXaaar)gBoiu>- (printed in the fourth volume
twv irbXig Adpvpva  of his Antiquities), describes a

XV. J BCEOTIA. 291
that were the site of the Lower Larymna, is it easy
to explain how either of them could have belonged to
Locris, all the surrounding districts being Boeotian;
although it cannot be denied, that the Larymna at
Larmes was the nearer of the two to the Locrian
frontier. It seems unaccountable also, that Pau
sanias should have omitted to notice so curious an
object, both natural and artificial, as the Chasms
ofthe Cephissus and its shafts; but it is consistent
with the supposition of his not having visited the
Larymna at Larmes, which may have happened be
cause it had been abandoned, soon after it had been
annexed by the Romans to the Lower Larymna. As
to Strabo, who seems to have been correct only in
saying, that the Cephissus emerged near the Upper
Larymna, there is great reason for believing that
on this, as on many other occasions, he described
places confusedly, which he had never seen, and
his text, perhaps, may be partly in fault. To the
one or the other of these causes may also be attri
buted his assertion, that the subterraneous passage
of the Cephissus was thirty stades in length ; for,
with all its windings, it is not half so much.
At the issue of the Cephissus, in the upper vale
of Larmes, I was struck with the smallness of the
quantity of water when compared with the aggre
gate of that which enters at the three katavothra,
lake which had a discharge into poneri (apparently a village of
the sea between the bay of that name), so that his lake
Skroponeri and Lukisi. But would rather seem to have been
he gives us the idea of a large the Paralimni. On the other
lake, for which there is no space hand, this lake certainly has no
in the vale ; and describes it as discharge into the Euboic frith
an hour and ahalf beyond Skro- unless by a katavothra.
u 2

292 BCEOTIA. [chap.
and could not but infer that one of the streams, at
least, has a different issue. The two northern
katavothra seem too near to each other, as well as
to the commencement of the line of shafts on the
surface, not to have both conducted to the subter
raneous channel below those shafts. It will pro
bably be found, therefore, that the river which
issues in the vale of Larmes, and which is about
equal in volume to those two streams, is derived
solely from them, and that the southern katavothra,
which is nearly half a mile distant from the nearest
of the two northern, has a different discharge, per
haps, at the sources in the bay of Skroponeri. This
would partly justify Strabo in saying, that the Ce
phissus flowed into the sea near the Lower or Boeo
tian Larymna.
Having taken my Christmas dinner at the Mills
of Larmes, I return to Kokkino, following the same
road by which I came, with the exception of cross
ing the rocky height from near the issue of the
river directly to the sixteenth shaft, and without
finding any other shaft, though the subterraneous
stream flows probably in that direction. It takes
three quarters of an hour to mount from the nearest
katavothra to Kokkino, where we arrive at sunset.
The only passage in ancient history illustrative
of the shafts and subterraneous course of the
Cephissus, occurs in the pages of Strabo to which
a reference has just been made. After describing
the river as entering a chasm near Copae, the
geographer subjoins that one Crates of Chalcis '
1 Casaubon, founding his text of p. 407 on another pas-
conjecture as to the defective sage in p. 700, thought that

XV. J BCEOTIA. 293
had been employed by Alexander the Great to re
medy the effects of an obstruction of the subterra
neous channels which had caused the submersion
of several places situated on the margin of the
lake : and that he, Strabo, had seen the report
made by Crates to Alexander, wherein that en
gineer stated that he had been successful in draw
ing off the water from some districts, especially
those of Eleusis and Athenae, Boeotian towns on
the river Triton l, when dissensions among the
Boeotians put a stop to the work. Although one
of the operations of Crates was to make an embank
ment 2 near Athenae, it is evident that his principal
means of desiccation were derived from the clear
ing of the subterraneous channels of the river, and
hence we might be justified in the inference that
the existing wells were the work of Crates ; there
are strong reasons, however, for believing that
they are more ancient, and that Crates only re
paired or cleared them. It is obvious that all val
leys so inclosed as to admit of a passage to the
running waters only through the surrounding
mountains cannot but be liable to occasional inun
dations from the obstruction of the subterraneous
Gorgus had been the name of ticedhyDiogenesLaertius,(1.4.
the engineer ; but it is clearly c. 23.) as a raippuipvxog 'AXe£-
proved from Stephanus to have dvBpai avviiv. — V. Geographie
been Crates; for in speaking de Strabon. tome 3. eclairc. 26.
of Athenae of Boeotia, he says, * Pausan. Boeot. c. 24,
r) ek rijg Xtpvrjg dva<^avE~iaa mentions the destruction of
pEra to irpoTEpov kiriKXvaQrjvai these two places by an inun-
rrjg KunratSog ote Kparng avrr)v dation.
BiErdijipEvaEv. Stephan. in 2 SiErdippEvaEv. V. Ste-
'Adrjvai. The same Crates is no- phan. ubi sup.

294 BCEOTIA. [chap.
channels. Ancient history records the occurrence
of inundations, thus caused, in the valleys of Stym-
phalus and Pheneus ', where such is the height of
the mountains that the inconvenience can only be
remedied by nature herself. But the chasmata of
the Cephissus are more accessible, and allowed of
the excavation of a line of shafts, by means of
which the channel of the river might not only be
kept clear but even enlarged, with a view to a
more extensive drainage of the plain. Strabo re
marks, with reference to the ancient riches of the
Orchomenii attested by Homer, that, according to
a Boeotian tradition, they had been caused by the
draining and subsequent cultivation of a large por
tion of the plain, which in the time of the geogra
pher had again become a part of the lake 2, and is
still an impracticable swamp. Now there is cer
tainly no period, in history, to which that great
and useful undertaking can be attributed with so
much probability as to that, when all Western
Bceotia was united under the Minyae of Orchome
nus. To that age, therefore, rather than any
other, the original excavations are to be attri
buted, when they were formed perhaps under the
direction of the Orchomenian princes Trophonius
and Agamedes, who, by their mechanical skill in
an age when it was extremely rare in Greece,
attained the honours of divinity.

1 Vide Travels in the Morea, the spring of 1829 the greater
c. 26. I am informed that part of the plain of Pheneus
the obstruction of the Ladon was under water.
has lately recurred, so that in 2 Strabo, p. 415.

XV. J BCEOTIA. 295
Dec. 26. — This morning a strong north-wester
sets in with rain. A ride of three quarters of an
hour carries me to Kardhitza, the road passing
along the rugged flanks of Mount Ptoum. Midway
a small plain lies below us to the right, at the foot
of the mountain on the border of the lake, and oppo
site to the plain, not far from the right bank of
the Cephissus, an island surrounded by cliffs, the
summit of which is incircled by the remains of a
Hellenic wall. In the inclosed space, as I am
told by some peasants who have been there, are
some foundations of buildings, but no columns.
It seems to have been some small town to which
the little plain just mentioned may have apper
tained, together with that which is now an inunda
tion surrounding the island, but which in summer
may be valuable land either for grain or pasture.
At Kardhitza I find ample employment for the rest
of the day in examining the adjacent ruins, which
are undoubtedly those of Acraephium, and in copy
ing inscriptions, of which there is a large collection
in an old church of St. George, standing within
the walls ofthe ancient. city.
Dec. 27. — The longest of the inscriptions has
required a continued labour of six hours, the let
ters being small, and in some places much de
faced ; and the stone which is in the wall of the
church on the outside, on a level with the earth,
being so placed that the lines are perpendicular to
the horizon, whence it is impossible to obtain a dis
tinct view of them without lying on the ground.
The monument is in honour of one of the citi-

296 BCEOTIA. [chap.
zens of this place named Epaminondas, son of
Epaminondas1. After recording some of his
former services to his native city, one of which
was the reparation, at an expence of 6000 denaria,
of a mound twelve stades in length, probably for
the purpose of protecting the plain of Acraephium
from the inundations to which it is subject from the
lake, the inscription proceeds as follows : " A lega
tion having been required to the Young Augustus,
in the general assembly of the Achaeans and Pan-
hellenes at Argos, and many illustrious and lead
ing men in the Boeotian cities having met together
and refused and appealed to him, he extending
his magnanimity to the whole nation of Boeotians,
and setting aside all consideration of his private
interests, most readily accepted the charge from
the nation of Boeotians, applying the strength of
his mind to this important and unpaid legation.
Whence, having become admired and thought
worthy of approbation, he was honoured by the
Panhellenes, as they testified in the letter sent by
ihem to our city. Having concluded the legation
together with the other nations, and brought back
the answer from . . . , he was honoured, to
gether with his co-legates ; and the general assem
bly of the Pambceoti, mindful of his spontaneous

1 As I have already pub- I have thought it sufficient to
lished this inscription in the insert the text in the cursive
Museum Criticum, and M. character at the end of this
Boeckh has given it a place volume.
in his Corpus Inscriptionum,

XV. J BCEOTIA. 297
liberality and benevolence, decreed to him the
honours due, and made a communication of the
act to our city  He
excelled in greatness of mind and virtue all
 his love of glory and
goodness by successive entertainments, being thus
held to be the greatest of patriots and benefactors.
And when the games called the Ptoia had been
omitted for thirty years, having been named to
preside over them, he most readily accepted the
office, thinking it an honour to renew those an
cient games, the great Ptoia and Caesareia, and
became a second founder of them. Having taken
the direction of them, he forthwith performed the
sacrifices and prophetic offices of the god, enter
taining the archons and assessors five times every
year with magnificent suppers, and giving a dinner
to the "city in the fifth year, without a single omis
sion in the other years either of sacrifice or of ex-
pence. And when the games occurred in the
sixth year, he made a distribution for the approach
ing feast to all the citizens as well as to the inha
bitants and alien proprietors, giving to each man a
Cophinus of wheat and a Hemina of wine, and re
ligiously executed the ceremonies derived from our
ancestors, the great processions, and the dance of
the Syrta. And sacrificing a bull to the gods and
the Augusti, he omitted neither the distribution of
meat, nor dinners, nor desserts, nor suppers, enter
taining at every dinner the children and young
slaves of the cities according to their classes, from
the tenth to the thirtieth, while his wife Noticha
gave a dinner to the wives of the citizens, their

298 BCEOTIA. [chap.
unmarried daughters, and female slaves. Nor
did he neglect those who had charge of the tents
or of the decoration of the festival, but he gave
them a dinner apart by proclamation, which none
of his predecessors had done, being desirous that
every one should be a partaker of his generosity.
In the scenic spectacles he treated all the spec
tators and persons assembled from the cities with
sweetmeats, and made large and exquisite cakes,
so that his munificence became celebrated in all
the surrounding cities. At the end of the games,
after a supper given to the whole people, recom
mencing his expences, he made a distribution of
eleven denaria to each couch of three persons, and
a Ceramaeum of old wine and six denaria to defray
the remaining expences for meat. After the per
formance of all these things, as he descended from
the temple to the city, all the citizens met him in
a body, in order to show him every kind of honour
and thankfulness ; and he, not unmindful of his
magnanimity, sacrificing in the city a bull to
Jupiter the Greatest, moved the congregation to
gratitude. Since then it is proper to exhibit good
and magnanimous and patriotic men adorned with
becoming honours and rewards; it has seemed
good to the archons, the assessors, and the people,
to bestow praises upon the aforesaid Epaminon
das, for that he has conducted himself towards his
native city with assiduous benevolence, and to
wards the nation of Boeotians with magnanimity,
and has conferred honour upon his native city by
his embassy. And to honour him with a golden
crown, and a good full -length painted portrait-statue.

XV. J BCEOTIA. 299
and that all succeeding Agonothetae shall in
the games to be directed by them invite him
with other benefactors to the first seat, in order
that, from these results, our city may appear
grateful to its* benefactors, and that many others
may become emulous of good actions thus attested.
Also to erect images or statues of him, one in the
temple of Apollo Ptoius, the other in the agora of
the city, together with gilded portrait-statues of
him, bearing the following inscription : The people
and the council (have honoured) Epaminondas,
son of Epaminondas, as an excellent citizen : and
to place a copy of the decree in the temple of
Apollo Ptoius, and another in the agora of the
city." The mention made of the Caesarean games, and
of their renewal, implying their cessation for a
considerable time, shows that the monument was
not of an early period of the Roman empire ;
which is confirmed by the worship of the Augusti
in the plural. The earliest emperors who held
that rank simultaneously were Marcus Aurelius
and L. Verus ; but the words Neoc 2£j3ao-roc desig
nating the Young Augustus, who presided in the
council of the Achaeans and Panhellenes in Argos,
to which the embassy of the Boeotians and others
was sent, seems not to apply so well to Verus as to
Commodus, who was in Greece with his father
on their return from the East, when Aurelius visited
Athens, in the year 176, and was initiated in the
Eleusinian mysteries. It is true that Commodus
was not honoured with the title of Augustus until

300 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
the following year ". But as, according to the tenor
of the inscription, the embassy occurred before the
Ptoia, and consequently some years prior to the
date of the monument, we may easily conceive that
after such an interval the people of Acraephium
would not studiously refuse to apply the title
of Augustus to Commodus, because he had not
yet received it at the period referred to, espe
cially as the honour became the greater to Epa
minondas, and as Commodus at the time of the in
scription was probably sole emperor. The next
Young Augustus, to whom the words Neoc 2Ej3aoroc
may be applied, was Caracalla, who with his
father Severus, passed through Moesia and Pan-
nonia in returning from the East in the year
203 2 : but there is no evidence of either of them
having been in Greece, and the form of the letters
in the inscription is more conformable to those in
use in the time of the Antonines than to any sub
sequent period. The 2 and E are still angular.
The final iota of the dative cases is constantly
omitted, but this omission was already common in
the reign of Hadrian. The confusion which oc
curs in the use of i and a is hardly consistent with
the form of the letters, and may perhaps be partly
an effect of the Bceotic dialect. Thus np-n, yivaiv-
rai are written TEiprj, yt'ivwvTai, while Etc, Trptofii'iav,
d^iiodiig, Ta^uc;, Beittvov, paprvpuaftai, are written ic,
wptafiiav, a£itij0ic, ra£ie, cWvov, paprvpiadai.
1 Dio. 1. 71, c. 31.— I. Ca- 2 Herodian. 1. 3, c. 10.
pitol. in Antonin. Philos. —
Philost. in Adrian, c. 4.

XV. J BCEOTIA. 301
This monument is a good example of the vanity
of a rich Boeotian Archon in those times, or rather
of the mean flattery of his fellow-citizens paying
homage to his wealth. It is a complete specimen
also, of the pompous inanity and wordy feebleness
of the language, which it is curious to compare
with some Attic inscriptions of about the same
period, when Atticus Herodes was the arbiter of
taste at Athens, and when amidst an abundance of
affectation, there still remained some wit, learning
and elegance of composition.
There are two other marbles in the walls of the
church, bearing inscriptions not much shorter than
the preceding ; one of these is in the northern wall,
where the effect of its exposure to this aspect has
been to cover it with moss. As very little of it could
possibly be deciphered, I have not attempted to copy
it. The other forms one of the jambs of a side door,
and has in one part been worn smooth ; in another
place the letters have been destroyed by the stone
having been cut away to make room for a latch.
The parts which have been exposed to the air are
much defaced, and the stone is so placed that the
letters are reversed, but I can perceive that men
tion is again made of the embassy of Epaminondas,
son of Epaminondas, and that the names of the
Boeotians, Locrians and Euboeans occur, being pro
bably the nations whose ambassadors, according to
the former inscription, accompanied Epaminondas
to ArgOS. The words avopiavrEc, ptyaXovlv^ia, and
TavpoOvTrioae. also occur as in the former, but the
most important are 'AnpaKpikuv dpyovoi, which taken
together with the mention of the temple of Apollo

302 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
Ptoius in the other inscription, and compared with
the situation of the town and temple, as described
by Herodotus, Strabo and Pausanias, can leave no
question that the ruins are those of Acraephium '.
Of the other inscriptions in the church of St.
George, the most curious are three fragments of
catalogues of agonistic victors, all which probably
belonged to one and the same record of certain
triennial games called Soteria, when Theomnestus,
son of Paramonus, was priest of Jupiter Soter,
and when the Soteria were celebrated for the
first time " after the war2," by which, as the
characters are of considerable antiquity, the Mith-
radatic war is probably meant, when Boeotia suf
fered severely. Pausanias makes no mention of
the Soteria, or of Jupiter Soter, or of any temple
at Acraephium, except that of Bacchus, which con
tained a statue of the god.
Among other fragments of antiquity in the church
of St. George, are a very small fluted Doric column
with sixteen flutings, and two of those circular pe-

1 kg tov Hruiov 'AirbXXoivog 'AKpaiipvwv 
7-0 rkpEvog. tovto Be to Ipbv Ka- KEirai to iroXiapa iv bpEi tS
XkErai jxev Htwov, karl Bk Qtj- JUY<&«. — Pausan. Boeot, c. 23.
/3aluiv, KEErai Be iiirkp rijg Ku- 2 'Avrtov apxovrog, dywvodE-
iraiBog Xipvrjg irpbg oiipei, rovv(rog) TloirXlov KopvrjXiov,
ayyorctrw ' AKpanpirjg iroXiog. — tov XloirXiov vlov .... paiov,
Herodot. 1. 8. c. 135. ruiv rpirirripiov Swrjjpt'wi' irpw-
'YirkpKEirai Be to Htwov tov (toiv) dirb tov iroXkpov, UpaTEV-
1r\VEpiKov iteBIov Kal rijg Kwira't- ovrog Be to(v Ai)bg tov —uirijpog
Sog Xipvrig irpbg 'AKpai(j>lu>' Qr)- QEopvijorov tov Ilapatioi'ou , otci£
fialaiv B" 7iv ro te pavTEiov Kal eviKwv, &c. — V. Inscr. No.
ro bpog' to Be 'AKpalipiov Kal aiiro 50, 51 .
wtrat kv iipEi. — Strabo, p. 413.
13

XV. J BCEOTIA. 303
destals smaller above than below, which are often
found in Greek churches, sometimes with Ionic,
but more commonly with Doric capitals, mouldings
and flutings. They were probably, as I have before
suggested \ the hypostates of the /cpTrrijjOEc 2, or
large basins which were used in the temples to
contain lustral water, and which having been gene
rally made of metal have disappeared, while their
hypostates of stone have remained. Altars formed
in the shape of a column surmounted with a square
plinth, are not uncommonly found also in the
modern churches, where they sometimes serve
for the holy table. As the temples were generally
converted into churches, on the establishment of
Christianity, the hypostates and altars have often
remained in their original places, while the temples
themselves may have totally altered their appear
ance, in consequence of successive repairs and the
change in their destination.
There is no church in Greece more likely to have
been a heathen temple than this of Kardhitza,
1 Travels in the Morea, vol. c. 25. — Athen. 1. 5, c. 13. Pau-
1> P- 498. san. Phocic. c. 16. — Philost. in
2 Pausanias has described, vitaApoll.Tyan.l. 6, c.2.)seems
what I conceive to have been not to have been exactly the
one of these articles of the fur- same kind of thing, but a base of
niture of ancient temples, in the cup itself, separate from any
the following words : viroardrrig marble hypobase upon which it
Xtflow /cat Xovrvpiov kiri rf viro- may have stood. We find the
ardryxaXKovv. (Phocic. c. 26.) three parts all mentioned in a
TheEVtoTaT-o£orv7ro/cp)jr»;pio>'of Latin inscription of Gruter (p.
the Sigeian inscription, as well 48), which records a gift to Her-
as the famous iron viroKp-rirripi- cules of a cratera Argyro-Co-
cWofthevasededicatedbyHa- rinlhia with a basis sua, and
lyattes at Delphi (Herodot. 1.1. a hypobasis marmorea.

304 BOEOTIA. [CHAP.
standing as it does in the middle of the ancient site.
It is supported within by columns formed of pieces of
ancient shafts, put together without much harmony,
but crowned with handsome Ionic capitals, which
as well as the portions of shafts, belonged probably
to the temple of Jupiter or Bacchus. The church
has a dome, and the most modern part of the
patchwork does not seem to be later than the
twelfth century. There are several similar churches
in Bceotia, which have outlasted many of later date :
particularly those more recent than the Turkish
conquest, scarcely any of which are more than half
a century old, being like the modern houses, built
so as not to be capable of enduring longer.
The name of Acraephium is obviously derived from
the conspicuous insulated dicpa or summit on which
the town was built, and which is noticed by Strabo \
This height is steep and rocky, but much less so
on the northern side towards Kardhitza, than in the
opposite direction, where it falls to a plain which
1 The termination of the name is in one place 'AKpatywv,
word, as well as the form of the in another 'AKpaiflai, in Hero-
gentile, vary in different au- dotus it is 'AKpat^lrj, in Livy
thors. In the lexicon of Ste- Acrasphia. Stephanus mentions
phanus it is 'AKpaifia, but he an Acraephieus, son of Apollo,
remarks that it was also writ- who was supposed to have given
ten 'AKpaiipiov, by Pausanias name to theplace. This was pro-
'AKpai<j>viov, and by Theopom- hably the doctrine of the people
pus rd 'AKpaifvia. The gentile of Acraephium, but Pausanias,
was 'A/cpat^taToe, or 'A/cpai'^toe, thoughhegenerallyinclinesboth
ox'AKpaiipviog,oi'AKpai(pviwTr)g, to local traditions, and to heroic
or 'AKpaiipviEvg. It is curious etymologies, makes no mention
that the orthography derived of any such person. The neigh -
from the inscription differs bouring part of the lake was
from them all, being'A/cpat^tEvc. called 'A/cpat^tc Xijxvri. (Ste
in our copies of Strabo the phan. ibid. — Strabo, p. 411.)

XV. J BCEOTIA. 305
borders a bay of the Lake Copais, and separates
the lower heights of Ptoum from those of Phicium.
Between it and an extremity of Mount Ptoum to
the northward, which terminates in bare and rug
ged rocks washed by the lake, is the opening which
I have before noticed as conspicuous from many
parts of the surrounding country. The ancient
walls are partly of the polygonal, and partly of the
third kind of Hellenic masonry. They are best
preserved at the summit of the hill, where are some
niches in the inside of the wall, six or eight feet
asunder, and just wide enough for a man to stand
within them. Their purpose was probably the
same as that of the niches in the secret gallery of
Tiryns, namely to oppose the advance of an adver
sary who had entered the passage. There are
many Hellenic foundations on the slope of the hill
towards Kardhitza down to the very bottom of it,
but nothing sculptured except at the church. Such
an advantageous position as that of Acraephium
could scarcely have been unoccupied in early ages ;
and we cannot doubt, therefore, that it is the site of
one of the Homeric towns of Bceotia. Some critics
in the time of Strabo supposed it to have been the
Arne of the poet ' ; but Arne, there is every reason
to believe, was the same place as Chaeroneia.
Peteon, from the association of names in the ca
talogue 2, is that which may be attributed to it, with
the greatest probability. 1 Strabo, p. 413.
2 Ot S1 'EXeiHv' eixov, flS' "YXjjv, Ka! TlETEiUva,
'-iKaXirfv, M£c5£W)/a' t kvKTipkvov irToXUQpov. 11. (5. v. 500.
VOL. II. X

306 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
Four roads lead from Kardhitza through openings
in the surrounding mountains : 1, to Topolia; 2,
its continuation to Thebes ; 3, to Kokkino ; and 4,
through the chasm already mentioned, into the
plain on the southern side of the hill of Acraephium.
The road to Topolia, now inundated, crosses the
river by a bridge, leaving the fortified island a
little on the right. The indications of Strabo 1,
and the more particular description of Pausanias 2,
leave little doubt that Topolia, where some remains
of walls and some inscribed marbles have been
found3, was the site of Copce; for Copae, like To
polia, was on the margin of the lake, and its direc
tion from Acraephium is shown by the narrative
of Pausanias beyond Copae, to have been towards
Cyrtones, Corseia, and the river Platanius, which is
exactly that of Topolia. He remarks, that between
Acraephium and the lake Cephissis, otherwise called
Copais, there was a plain named Athamantium,
from its having been anciently inhabited by Atha-
mas, and that not far from thence, the river Cephis-
1 KtiiirSiv' . . . irpoadpKTtog Boeot. c. 24. There seems to
cSe' kanv kiri rrj KmiraiSi Xipvy. — ¦ be something wanting in the
Strabo, p. 410. v. et 406. 411. latter part of this passage.
2 'E£ 'AKpaajivlov Be iovti Et/- 3 One of these, in the Bceotic
0E~tav kiri Xlpvriv rr)v Kri<j>iaaiBa dialect, has been published by
(ol Be KoiiratBa ovopd^ovai rr)v the Rev, R. Walpole, in his
avrr)v) ireSiov KaXovpEvov kanv second Collection of Memoirs,
'AOapdvTiov' oiKijaai Be 'A0d- &c. p. 566. ; where the very
pavra kv aiiriS tyaaiv kg Be rr)v incomplete second line may
Xlpvyv o te irorapbg b Krjibiaabg be restored thus : TOIAE
EKBlSwaiv, dpxbpEVog e/c AtXatas ErPA^ANTOENOLTAlTAIS,
tSiv QiiiKEbiv, /cat SiairXEvaavri showing the document to be a
EC Kuiirag' KE~ivrai Be al Kw7rai conscription of hoplitas.
TroXiapa kiri rrj Xipvy. — Bausan. 13

XV. J BCEOTIA. 307
sus entered the lake, across which there was a navi
gation to Copae, a small town containing temples of
Ceres, Bacchus and Sarapis. Hence it is evident,
that the plain Athamantium was not that to the
southward of the height of Kardhitza, but that in the
opposite direction, near the fortified island, which
latter may have been a town or fortress named
Athamantium, though Pausanias, perhaps from its
having been a ruin in his time, has alluded to it
only as the former residence of Athamas, and has
described the plain only. The hill of Topolia re
sembles this island, as well in its degree of eleva
tion as in its rocky margin, and is itself an island
during a great part of the year, but being situated
very near the neighbouring heights, it is some
times a promontory, and generally presents that
appearance. The distance of Palea. from Kardhitza agrees
exactly with that which Pausanias states to
have been the interval between Acraephium and
the temple of Apollo Ptoius, namely, fifteen stades ;
and its position to the right of the road leading
from Acraephium to Larymna seems equally to ac
cord with his words ", for the road to both the
Larymnae could not but have followed the modern
route as far as Kokkino. The three summits Palea,
Striitzina and Skroponeri, each well defined, and
yet forming one range of nearly equal altitude,
ripo£X06vri Be airb Tijg ko- 'YirEpflaXbvruiv Sk to bpog to
Xewc kv SeZiij. ttevte irov Kal BkKa Tlrwov, karlv kiri daXdaar\g
araciovg, tov 'AiroXXiovbg kan Boiairuiv irbXig Adpvpva. —
tov IItwov to Upbv  Pausan. Boeot. c. 23.
x 2

308 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
perfectly illustrate the epithet rpucdpavov, which
Alcaeus applied to Ptoum 1.
Taking the fourth of the above-mentioned roads,
I pass in 13 minutes from the church of St. George
through the chasm into the plain on the southern
side of the hill of Acraephium; in 10 more arrive
at the mountains on the southern side of the plain,
and then follow the margin of the lake, along the
foot of the mountain which overhangs it, and
where scarcely any path is traceable, sometimes
passing through the water, sometimes over little
green levels under the rocks. At the end of 27
minutes from the foot of the chasm of Kardhitza,
a projecting point of the mountain affords from its
summit a good view of the adjacent part of the
lake where I had already noticed a causeway of
stone, crossing the mouth of that bay of the Ce
phissis, which is bordered by the valley of Acrae
phium, and seems to have been sometimes known
to the ancients by the name of the lake Acraephis.
The causeway connected the foot of Mount Phicium
to that of Mount Ptoum, and although defective in
many places, would still with a little repair be
carriageable all the way : its length was about two
miles. A similar paved road may be traced near the
island of Athamas, leading from the bridge of the
Cephissus, towards Topolia, but it is not in such
good preservation as the former. The solid con
struction of these causeways leaves little doubt that
they are works of the ancients, and which seem to

Kai itote tov rpiKapavot' TItwov KEvftpuiva KarkaxEdE.
Ap. Strab. p. 413.

XV. J BCEOTIA. 309
have been kept in repair, even during the Byzan
tine empire : the first is exactly in the direction
of Acraephium, from Haliartus, not far from the
former of which it joined the other causeway,
which was in the direct road from Thebes to
Copae. It is not impossible that these were
the works upon which Epaminondas of Acrae
phium is recorded in the inscription of Kardhitza
to have expended 6000 denaria, in which case it
would seem that Pausanias visited Acraephium
before the repair, since he speaks only of a navi
gation from the plain of Athamantium to Copae.
In fact, this will agree perfectly with the date of
the travels of Pausanias in Greece, which did not
extend in time beyond the earliest years of the
reign of Marcus Aurelius. Continuing to coast
the lake for eight minutes, and having passed in
one place through deep water at the foot of the
rocks, I arrive at a katavothra, or small cavern,
which is lower than the present level of the ad
jacent waters, and into which a slender stream
now flows. A mile farther towards Haliartus is
the Cape of Mount Phicium, at which the cause
way leading to the foot of Mount Ptoum begins.
All this part of the lake produces abundantly a
rush, of which mats are made at Kardhitza and
other villages near the lake. It has a soft round
stem, and is called Papyri, the name by which
the same plant is known at Ioannina, where it is
equally used for making mats. Many other kinds
of reeds and rushes are observable in the lake, but
their tops only are now visible above the water.
Neither here nor in any other part of Greece have

310 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
I seen the triangular Cyperus Papyrus, of which
the paper used by the Egyptians and Greeks was
made. Strabo remarks that the whole lake, called in
his time Copais, but which Pindar named Ce
phissis, had anciently separate denominations,
derived from the adjacent cities. The Haliartian
marsh is the more distinguishable from those of
Orchomenus, Acraephium, and Copae, because the
latter are formed from the superfluous waters of
the Melas, Cephissus, Probatia, Phalarus, and
Curalius, whereas the marsh of Haliartus is caused
by the rivers which descend into the basin near
that site, and which appear never to unite with
the Cephissus, but to have an exit through Mount
Phicium by katavothra; possibly that which I
visited is not the only one. In summer the course
of the streams may be more apparent in every
part of the Cephissic basin, so that in the space
which is now a continued inundation, distinguish
able only by a greater depth of water in some
places, there may be several separate portions of
water divided from each other by firm land, ex
plaining the several denominations of Acraephis,
Copais, Haliartia. At present it is not even pos
sible to say decidedly where the stream which
flows into the katavothra of Mount Phicium origi
nates, but most probably it is formed from the
junction of some, if not all, the rivulets anciently
called Permessus, Lophis, Oplites, Ocalea, and
perhaps also Tilphossa.
Having returned along the margin of the lake
to the plain of Acraephium, I follow the southern

XV. J BCEOTIA. 311
side of that plain, not far from the foot of the
mountain, where some foundations of masonry are
observable lying in the direction of the route, as
well as some others at right angles to the former,
at a point which is half way between the lake and
a small ridge which separates this plain from that
which borders the lake of Senzina. They appear to
be the remains of some works intended to defend
the upper part ofthe plain from those encroachments
of the lake of Acraephium which now prevent all the
lower part of it from being cultivated. The founda
tions have not much appearance of Hellenic work,
but there are traces of a canal to the northward of
them which seem to be of those times : here also
is a line of wells, or shafts, some in the bed, and
some in the direction of the canal, similar to those
which are above the subterraneous channel of the
Cephissus. I say the direction, because the hollow
and mounds of excavated earth on either side, by
which the former existence of a canal may be
presumed, have been in some places obliterated
by the plough, or have disappeared by the effects
of alluvion in the parts where the ground is most
marshy. The canal however is easily traced to
the ridge at the end of the plain, which it seems
to have entered between two ranges of rock, which
my guide of Kardhitza calls the Vrakho1. The
position of some of the shafts is recognised only
by small hollows and surrounding mounds, at equal
distances ; but two or three of them are still open,
and, like those of the subterraneous channel of
1 b fipdxog.

312 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
the Cephissus, are rectangular excavations in the
rock, — not square, however, like them, but ob
long, and having their long sides half as long
again as those of the Cephissian wells. I observe
that one of them widens below like an ancient
cistern. The opening at the Vrakho makes a
turn to the left, almost at right angles to the
direction of the canal, and then again gradually
to the right until it enters the plain of Senzina, at
about a mile from that village. My guide sup
posed the opening at the Vrakho to be artificial,
but though the sides are uniform, and the breadth
nearly the same as that of the canal, or 50 feet,
there are no marks of art on the rocks, and the
great length, as well as the general appearance of it,
make me believe it to be natural ; though certainly
very conveniently contrived by nature to facilitate
the formation of a canal. The bed or bottom of
the Vrakho is below the present level of the lake
Copais, and a line of hollows is traceable along
it, forming an evident continuation of those in the
plain ; but the hollows only are apparent, the
shafts, if they exist being entirely buried. I was
18 minutes riding, preceded by a man on foot,
from the south-western corner of the plain where
I entered it from the katavothra, to the opening
of the . Vrakho near the centre of the head of
the plain. Here leaving the road to Senzina to
the right, I continue to follow the hollow be
tween the rocks for 12 minutes before I enter the
plain of Senzina, Although the hollow is in one
place crossed by a ridge, vestiges of the canal are
still visible as far as the plain, where it is again

XV. J BCEOTIA. 313
crossed by a ridge, and then ceases to be trace
able, the Vrakho at the same place falling off to
the right, and subsiding into the plain.
To the left of the apparent extremity of the
canal are the foundations of a long quadrangular
building of large squared stones, and beyond it,
on the opposite side of a small torrent, a height
only three minutes distant from the entrance into
the plain, and occupying a large space in it.
This height is situated midway between the lake
and the foot of Mount Palea, from which it is
separated by another torrent. On its summit are
the remains of a quadrangular inclosure, consist
ing of walls flanked by towers and constructed of
rough masonry and small stones ; but among the
foundations of which are some large hewn masses
in the Hellenic style, showing that the ruins which
are now called the Paleokastro occupy a Hellenic
site. It was probably Hyle, for Homer places
Hyle near the lake Cephissis1, and Strabo de
scribes the Hylice as a lake in the Thebaea, which
was small compared with the Cephissis, and which
was supplied from the latter by a subterraneous
communication 2. In adding that it was situated
between Thebes and Anthedon, he was not so
'Opkafiwv aioXoptTpnv
"Og p" kv "YXrj vaUaKE, pkya ttXovtoio pEprjXiog,
Aipvy KEKXipEvog Ky<piaaiSi' Trap Sk ol aXXoi
Natov Boioirol, pdXa irlova Brjpov e'xojtee.
II. E. v. 707.
2 'H pkv (Kyipiaaig) kan pE- virovopotv irXypovpivr], KEipEvrj
ydXy Kal ovk kv ry Qyfia'iBi' r) pEra'^v Qrifitjv /cat 'AvdrjBbvog.
Sk (YXiKr)) piKpd, ekeWev cV — Strabo, p. 408.

314 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
correct, and seems to have confounded this lake
with the Paralimni. Hyle appears from Homer
to have been renowned for jts manufacture of
those Boeotian shields, which became the com
monest type of the coins of this province, for the
celebrated sevenfold shield of Ajax was made by
Tichius of Hyle l.
Below the hill of Hyle the plain suddenly changes
its level, all to the northward bordering that side
of the lake, being very little above the water,
while that at the western end towards Senzina is
much higher. Hyle stands in a line between the
eastern extremity of Mount Faga. and the pass of
Palea leading to Kokkino, in a line between
Kardhitza and Thebes, and in a line also drawn
from Haliartus through the long diameter of the
Paralimni, or lake of Moritzi, and the pass leading
to Anthedon. I mention these interlineations, be
cause there is no kind of geographical observation
so convenient or infallible.
It takes fourteen minutes to ride from the Paleo
kastro to Senzina, which is a small village on a rocky
hill connected with Mount Phicium: some higher
ridges of the same mountain overhang the western
extremity of the lake, where at less than a mile
to the southward of Senzina is the emissory of the
subterraneous stream from the lake Cephissis. The
1 A'iag c5' kyyvdsv r)Xd£ (j>kpuiv aaKog rjvTE irvpyov,
XaX/CEOv EirrafioEiov, o ol T«x'OC /cctp.£ tevxiov,
'—Kvroropoiv &x apiarog,"YXy 'kvi oiKta valwv.
"Og ol kirolnaEv aaKog atoXov iirrafibEiov
Tavpwv ^arpEipEuv, kirt B' bySoov r)Xaa£ xaX/coV.
II. H. v. 219.

XV J BCEOTIA. 315
direct distance from the katavothra is about two
miles, occupied entirely by a rocky ridge, advancing
northward from the summit of Mount Phicium,
and throwing out a branch to the south-east, which
for some distance beyond the emissory continues
to border the lake, and then becomes a low ridge,
separating it from the inundation of Purnari, in
the Teneric plain. Further on, towards Thebes,
the shore again becomes steep and rocky. The
lake is named Livadhi, or lake of Senzina. It
abounds with fish, is now covered with wild ducks,
and appears to be deep, as might be presumed
from the boldness of the greater part of its shores.
Its depth, abruptness of margin, and inferiority
to the Cephissic basin, indicated by the subter
raneous river flowing into it from the Haliar-
tian marsh, may serve to explain the intention
of the ancient canal in the plain of Acraephium.
Such a canal might obviously have been useful
in draining the marshes near Acraephium and
Haliartus, with very little risk of injury to the
lands bordering on the Hylice, the shore of this
lake being exposed to inundation only in the
lower part of the plain to the eastward of Senzina,
where it might be protected by means of an embank
ment of no great extent. Nature, indeed, seems to
have shown the expediency of making this deep
and rocky basin a recipient of superfluous waters, by
directing into it a stream through Mount Phicium,
and the construction of the ground between the
lake Hylice and the shore of the Cephissis near
Acraephium, gives great facility to the undertak
ing. It is to such peculiarities in the geological

316 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
construction of this country, that the creation and
development of Greek ingenuity may, in great
measure, be attributed. As there are few more
powerful stimulants to national industry, and to the
exertion which leads to wealth and power, than
lands subject to inundation, such lands in general
being, when relieved from that inconvenience, the
most fertile and productive of any, so there is no
country more abounding in these motives to dili
gence and invention than Greece. From its in
tersecting mountains, incased valleys, and marshy
levels, from the peculiarities of its maritime forma
tion, and the wonderful extent of its sea-coast,
ultimately proceeded all the features of the national
character, and the effect of which has been to
render the study of their history, arts, and litera
ture, curious and instructive beyond that of all
other nations. Even now the same causes seem
to operate in rendering the Greeks, degraded as
they are, industrious beyond any other people
living in the same southern latitude.
If the canal of Acraephium was intended for the
purpose of draining the Cephissis into the Hylice,
it may have formed a part of the works of Crates,
undertaken by order of Alexander the Great ; and
as there is reason to doubt whether it was ever
finished, this would agree with the fact, that Crates
was obliged to desist from his operations in conse
quence of the intestine quarrels of the Boeotians.
When the Thebans were restored to their city and
recovered their authority, they might not be very
willing to promote a work which would benefit the
people of Acraephium at the expense of their own

XV. J BCEOTIA. 317
dependent district of Hyle, however slightly it
might injure the latter, and notwithstanding that
many of the Thebans had been indebted to the
hospitality of Acraephium, after the destruction of
Thebes by Alexander1. Soon afterwards the wars,
of which Greece became the field and victim, with
the generally increasing poverty of the country,
were causes sufficient to prevent the undertaking
from ever being renewed.
At 3 p.m. quitting Senzina for Thebes, we de
scend into the lower plain on the northern side of
the lake, and at 3.11, leaving a tower standing on
a rocky promontory in the lake, half a mile on the
right, cross the lowest part of the plain, where a
winter rema from Mount Palea inundates all the
level ground as it meets the water of the lake,
which is now gradually rising : at 3.25, at the end
of the plain, we mount a rocky height, and at 3.40
descend into a little hollow on the side of a small
bay, where on the opposite shore there is an open
ing in the rocky encasement of the lake, exactly in
a line with Thebes. This opening is called the
rema ofthe Kanavri2, because through it the small
river called Kanavri, or Kanavari, which rises near
Erimokastro, and which I crossed in approaching
Thebes from Livadhia, here enters the lake. We
now pass over another rocky height, the continuation
of that which we passed on the road to Kokkino, on
the evening of the 24th, and descend upon another
bay of the lake, from whence there is a passage of
only a quarter of an hour over a ridge on the left,
1 Pausan. Bceot. c. 23. 2 rb pEvpa tov Kavafipiov.

318 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
into the plain at the head of the lake Paralimni.
At 3.57, having arrived at the end of the second
bay, we find the water at the foot of the rocks so
deep, that we are obliged to return : from the head
of this bay the ground rises gradually, and I ob
serve ancient walls stretching across the valley, and
along the slope of the hill to the right. At 4.4 we
ascend from the head of the bay, and at 4.13 de
scend a little, with the village of Moritzi1 directly
before us. The superiority of the level of the plain
of Moritzi above the lake Livadhi, is here very
apparent. We now turn to the right, and at 4.22 arrive
upon the extreme bay of the Livadhi, where a small
rema, coming from the direction of Moritzi, flows
into it. We then ascend ten minutes, and arrive
in the plain of Moritzi, which, although it is not
separated from that of Thebes by any marked
ridge, is distinguishable from it by its superior
level, and is intersected with low rocky heights or
cultivated inequalities of ground, whereas the plain
of Thebes is a dead flat. The soil of both seems
equally good. Our- road continues along the foot
of the stony heights which border the lake Li
vadhi, passes some Hellenic foundations at 4.48,
and at 4.50 enters the plain of Thebes, after a
descent of several minutes. The road from Moritzi
to Thebes, which we here join, enters the plain by
an opening in the same bank, which we descended.
This opening has an artificial appearance, and as
1 Properly perhaps MavpiKiog, which was a common name
among the lower Greeks.

XV.] BCEOTIA. 319
the superfluous waters of the plain of Thebes flow
through it occasionally after heavy rains, it would
seem to have been a work of the ancient Thebans,
to drain their plain into the Livadhi, probably by
means of the torrent of Moritzi.
At 5 we arrive in a line with the south-eastern
extremity of the hills which border that lake, where
they approach nearest to Thebes, and having crossed
the plain, pass a little below the town through a few
ruinous plantations of mulberries and figs, which
are irrigated in summer, as well as some cotton
grounds near them, by the superfluous waters of
the Theban sources, and at 5.46 we arrive at the
eastern tower of the castle. Though there has
been no great quantity of rain, the plain of Thebes
is already well moistened. The soil is a light rich
mould, like that of the Thessalian plains, and it
often happens here, as in Thessaly, that the har
vest is abundant when there is a dearth from the
want of rain in other parts of Greece. The angle
of the plain at the foot of Mount Phicium, which
is separated only by a low rocky ridge from the lake
Hylice, is now inundated to a great extent, as it
usually is in the winter. In summer it produces
good crops of kalambokki. Pausanias leaves no
doubt of its being the extremity of the Teneric
plain, having clearly described that plain as situ
ated near the mountain of the Sphinx,- and to the
right of the temple of the Cabeiri, which stood at a
distance of fifty stades from Thespiae, and about
forty from Thebes1. Strabo adds, that the Teneric
1 Pausan. Boeot. c. 25, 26.

320 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
plain was not far from Onchestus1; whence he
seems to have included under the denomination of
Teneric, the plain at the foot of Mount Faga, on
the south, where there is now an inundation as
well as on the eastern side of that mountain. But
his words are not to be taken rigorously, for his ob
servation that Mount Ptoum rose above the Teneric
plain, is obviously that of a person not well ac
quainted with the places : Phicium, or the moun
tain of the Sphinx, being totally separated from
Mount Ptoum by the plains of Hyle and Acrae
phium. In the Teneric plain stood a large temple
of Hercules, surnamed Hippodetus, because he
bound the chariot-horses of the Orchomenii, when
they had advanced into this plain in their war
with the Thebans2.
I am not aware that there is any allusion
to the lake Paralimni in history. Possibly the
name is ancient. It is a shallow stagnum, more
resembling the inundations of the Teneric plain
than the deep encased basin of the Livadhi, and in
summer it is sometimes reduced to small dimen
sions. The ancient city, of which there are
vestiges at its southern extremity, would seem
from Strabo to have been either Schcenus, or
Peteon, for he places both these towns near
the road from Thebes to Anthedon, which is
exactly the situation of those ruins. In regard
to Peteon, however, he contradicts himself, by
attributing it at the same time to the Haliar-
1 Strabo, p. 413. 2 Pausan. Boeot. c. 26.

XV. J BCEOTIA. 321
tia ' ; and it may be observed, in favour of Schoe
nus, that the ruins in question are very nearly at
the distance of fifty stades from Thebes, stated by
the geographer. On the other hand, he gives us
to understand that there was a river flowing through
the district of Schoenus, and that both the river
and the district still preserved that name2. Ni-
cander also attests the existence of a river Schoe
nus 3, whereas there is no river near the Para
limni. One cannot but suspect, therefore, that
the Kanavari, which is in fact the only running
stream in this part of Boeotia, except the two rivu
lets of Thebes, was the ancient Schoenus, and that
the town of that name stood on its bank, — notwith
standing the objections that no part of this river is
so far as fifty stades from Thebes, or in the route
from Thebes to Anthedon, and that Nicander
makes his river Schoenus flow to the lake Copais.
The last objection, however, is the less important,
as the same poet assigns a similar termination to
the Cnopus, which, according to his scholiast, was
the same as the Ismenus ; so that it is very pos
sible that in both instances he confounded the
Copais with one of the other lakes. As to the
ruins on the shore of the Paralimni, they are per-
1 BIetewv S' karl Koipy rijg Qyfia'iKrjg Kara rr\v bBbv rrjv kiri
Qti(3atBog kyyvg rijg eV 'Av- 'AvdrjSovog, Sikxovaa Qrjfi&v
BySbva bSov  oaov irEVTr\Kovra araBiovg' p£~i
. TLete&iv Be rrjg 'AXiap- Sk /cat irorafi.bg Si' aiirijg 2xol~
riag /cat MeSeuiv Kal 'ilKaXka. vovg. — Strabo, p. 408.
—Strabo, p. 410. 3 Nicand. Theriac. v. 887-
2 %xo~tvog o" £ort X^Pa r^c
VOL. II. Y

322 BCEOTIA. [chap. XV.
haps those of Eleon, the name being well suited
to a position on the borders of such a lake, and
the arrangement of the towns in the Catalogue
giving some reason for presuming that Eleon was
not far from Hyle \
1 Vide supra, p. 305, note 2.

CHAPTER XVI.

BCEOTIA.
From Thebes to Kokhla — Potniae — River Asopus— Plataea —
Fountain Vergutiani — Kriakuki — Hysiae — Bubuka — Katzula,
Erythrae — Scolus — Eteonus — Fountain Gargaphia — Platani
Monument of Mardonius — Ancient roads from Plataea to
Athens and Megara — Fountain of Diana and rock of Actaeon
— Sphragidium — On the Battle of Plataea — Heroum of Andro-
crates — Argiopius — The Island — Siege of Plataea in the Pelo
ponnesian War — Re-establishment of the walls under Cassan-
der — Heraeum, old and new — Description of Plataea by Pau
sanias — Gate of Eleutherae.
Dec. 29. — From Thebes to Plataea. — Kokhla, a
small village, situated near the ruins of Plataea, to
the south-west, is about eight miles from Thiva, by
the road, but the nearest walls of the two ancient
cities were not more than six miles and a half apart,
and the direct distance was little more than five
geographical miles. At half an hour from Thiva
the road to Livadhostra branches off to the right ;
a little beyond this place stood Potniae, if we may
rely upon the imperfect text of Pausanias, from
which it appears that Potniae occurred on the road
from Thebes to Plataea, at a distance of ten stades
from the gate Electrae in proceeding towards the
y 2

324 BCEOTIA. [chap.
Asopus ] . He seems to add that it stood upon a river,
which there is some difficulty in understanding, as
the Asopus is the only brook between Plataea and
Thebes, and could not have been the river intended,
as its distance was more than twice ten stades from
Thebes. The descent from the Theban ridge to the
Asopus is almost imperceptible, as far as a small
branch of that river which flows from the Thespias
along a valley between the heights of Parapunghi 2
to the southward, and those of Khalki and Balitza 3,
which last village we leave a mile on the right.
The valley below it, which in summer when I last
saw it was a dry and cultivated plain, without
even a brook in it, is now an extensive inundation.
Having passed between Platani and Pyrgo, each
situated on a height at half a mile from the road,
we cross, in twenty-seven minutes from the Thespian
branch of the Asopus, the eastern branch of theO'eroe;
in three minutes more a smaller branch of the same
river, which, like the former, is dry, and in another
minute the third or principal branch of the O'e'roe,
which originates in the fountain called Vergutiani,
and now contains water, but without any current :
six minutes beyond it, occurs a fourth branch, small
and without water, and which, rising between the
Vergutiani and Kokhla, follows a hollow just be
low the eastern walls of Plataea. The part of the
1 Ata/3£/3ij/coYi Be rfcij; tov irorapiji r«J 7rapa (qu. irapap-
'Aaunrbv Kal rrjg ttoXeuiq ciE/ca pEovrt) rac UorvidSag 0Eag bvo-
pdXtara a'0£OT7)/cdrt araSlovg, pdfovaiv. — Pausan. Boeot. c. 8.
HotviSiv kanv kpEiiria Kal kv ail- 2 LTapaTrovyyt.
ro~ig dXaog Ar'iprjTpog Kal Kbpng. 3 XaX/ct, M7ra'Airf a, or
ra Be dydXpara kv (qu. kiri) rw IIdXr£a.

XVI. J BCEOTIA. 333
in an artificial basin covered with squared stones
of ancient fabric. This I take to be the Gargaphia
of Herodotus. In the wall of a ruined tower situated
below the supposed site of Hysiae, I remarked
several stones which have been employed in ancient
buildings, and the fields around are spread with
fragments of Hellenic pottery.
Just below Platani to the south, are the sources
of a water-course, which after making a circuit at
the foot of the hill of Platani follows the road from
Thebes to Kokhla for some distance, and then joins
the Thespian branch of the Asopus, just above a
bridge in the road. From thence I cross the
branches of the Oeroe to Vergutiani, and return
by a lower route than that of yesterday to the same
point at the southern angle of Plataea from whence
I set out yesterday on this little tour, the object of
which has been to visit some parts of the Plataeis,
not properly examined on my former journey, to
ascertain the sites of Hysiae and Erythrae, to trace
the courses of the several branches of the Asopus
and Oeroe, and to notice the principal springs of
the Plataeis with a view of identifying the Garga
phia. If this be the fountain just indicated about
midway between Kriakuki and Platani, it is pro
bable that Vergutiani is the fountain of Diana,
where Actaeon was said to have seen the Goddess
bathing, and that the rock which I have described
above the fountain, was that on which Actaeon was
reported to have been in the habit of reposing when
fatigued with the chace. Pausanias, after returning
from Hysiae into the road leading from Eleutherae
to Plataea, describes the monument of Mardonius

334 BCEOTIA. [chap.
as being on the right hand side of that road, and
immediately afterwards states that there was a road
from Megara to Plataea, on the right of which were
the fountain of Diana and the rock of Actaeon '.
Thus it is evident that the road from Plataea to
Megara was different from that leading from Plataea
to Eleutherae ; and we find the same distinction in
Xenophon, who states that Cleombrotus, marching
from the Peloponnesus into Bceotia, avoided the
Pass of Eleutherae, which was in possession of an
Athenian force under Chabrias, and mounted by the
road which led to Plataea 2. If then the road from
Eleutherae descended by the modern Derveni leading
from the Isthmus to Thebes, and about Kriakuki
turned towards Platwa, as seems to be its natural
course, that from Megara probably descended the
face of the mountain obliquely at a considerable
elevation, where it would pass very near the foun
tain Vergutiani.
Immediately opposite to the southern angle of
the walls of Platosa on the steep rocky rise of the
mountain, which is here separated only by a nar
row level from the ancient site, is a cavern 30 feet
in length, 10 wide, and 4 high. Before it there
is a little verdant level, surrounded and overhung
by rugged rocks. The beauty of the spot
would tempt one to believe it to have been the
cavern sacred to the Nymphs of Cithaeron,
called the Sphragitides, which once contained an
1 Pausan. Boeot. c. 2. bpfiporog dvkflaivE Kara rr)v kg
2 Kai rr)v pkv flY 'JLX£vd£p(2 v LTXaratac ibkpovaav. — Xenoph.
bSbv Xa/ipiag e'x<«"/ 'ABrjvaiuiv Hellen. 1. 5, c. 4.
irEXraardg kipvXarrEV' b Sk KXe-

XVI.J BCEOTIA. 335
oracle of the Nymphs, and was noted for Nympho-
lepsy. But the testimony of Plutarch and Pau
sanias is positive in placing that cavern on the
north-western side of one of the summits, and at
a distance of only 15 stades below it1, conse
quently much higher in. the mountain, and having a
different aspect. On the same summit there was
an altar for the celebration of the lesser Daedala,
which was a festival instituted by all the people
of Bceotia in commemoration of their reconcilia
tion and alliance with Plataea, after the restoration
of Thebes and Plataea, by Cassander. As there
are two summits of Cithaeron equally conspicuous,
a circumstance explaining the words pla Kopvtpy,
in Plutarch, it is not easy to determine on which
we ought to seek for the altar or the cavern,
though probability seems to incline towards that
which is nearest to Plataea.
In order to justify the ancient names in the
plan of the Plataeis, which accompanies the pre
sent volume, and the positions which are there
assigned to the contending forces in the great
military operations which terminated the Persian
war, little more will be necessary than to describe
succinctly the events immediately preceding the
1 rb tSiv —(ppayiTtBuiv vvp- virkp Be rrjg Kopvipijg, kip' r] tov
tywv dvrpov kv fiia Kopviprj tov piopbv iroiovvrai, ttevte irov pd-
KiBaip&vbg kanv £ig Bvapdg Xiara Kal BkKa vTroKarafidvTi
rjXlov BEpivag TETpappkvov, kv araSlovg, vvpty&v karlv avrpov
<a /cat pavTEiov t)v irpbrEpov, &g KidaipuivtSbiv 2(ppayiBiov fikv
ipaai, Kal iroXXol KarEixovro rwv dvojxa£bp£Vov. — Pausan. Boeot.
Eirtx^ptw ovg NvptyoXriirrovg c. 3.
?rpoo7/ydp£uo»'. — Plutarch, in
Aristid.

336 BCEOTIA. [chap.
battle, and the circumstances of the action itself,
both extracted almost entirely from the contempo
rary historian \
Xerxes had not been many days in possession
of Athens, the chief object of his armament, when
he was an eye-witness of the utter defeat and
dispersion of his fleet, and found himself under
the necessity of returning immediately to Persia.
He was advised at the same time to leave three
hundred thousand men in Greece ; with these Mar
donius undertook to complete the conquest of the
country ; but as the approaching season was un
favourable to military operations, (the battle of Sa-
lamis having been fought in October,) it was resolved
that Mardonius should pass the winter in Thessaly
and Macedonia, which were much more capable of
supplying the wants of an army than the provinces
within Mount CEta. While Xerxes was in Thessaly
on his retreat, Mardonius made choice of the troops
who were to remain with him. They consisted of all
the immortals, except their commander Hydarnes,
who refused to be separated from the king, of the
Persian thoracepheri, or cuirassiers, and of all the
Medes, Sacae, Bactrians, and Indians, both horse and
foot, with a selection from the other allies. Sixty
thousand of these men, under Artabazus, served
as a body guard to Xerxes in his march to the
Hellespont, where he arrived with scarcely any
other forces, so great had been the numbers left sick
in Thessaly, Macedonia, and Paeonia, or who had
perished on the way from hunger, plague, and
1 Herodot. 1. 8, c. 113. 126, et seq. ; 1. 9, c. 1, et seq.

XVI.J BCEOTIA. 337
dysentery. Artaba'zus on his return employed the
remainder of the winter in reducing the revolted
cities of Pallene, and was detained no less than
three months in the siege of Potidaea, where he
lost a considerable portion of his troops by the
effects of a sudden inundation of the sea.
Mardonius did not advance from Thessaly until
he had consulted some of the oracles of Greece,
and until he had learnt the event of an embassy
to Athens, the object of which was to induce
the Athenians to make a separate peace. The
oracular replies he considered favourable; and
those of Thessaly and Bceotia were probably in
tended to be so by the priests, but Alexander,
king of Macedonia, who was charged with his
message to the Athenians, could make no impres
sion upon a people whose city and villages were
in ruins, — whose families, having taken refuge in
the neighbouring Peloponnesian cities, became a
surety in their hands for the fidelity of Athens to
the general cause, and whose government in Sa-
lamis was beyond the reach of the Persians. So
powerful were these motives, and so unbroken the
public spirit of the Athenians, that when he again
took possession of Athens, he found the people as
determined as ever to resist his menaces and his
offers. Deprived of the Persian fleet, he could not
long remain in such an exhausted country ; as soon
as he was informed therefore by the Argives that the
Peloponnesians were moving towards the Isthmus,
he completed the destruction of Athens and returned
into Bceotia, which afforded greater means of sub
sistence, a country better suited to the operations of
VOL. II. z

338 BCEOTIA. [chap.
his cavalry, and where he was surrounded by a
friendly or submissive people. The Boeotians had en
deavoured to dissuade him from marching to Athens
and to assure him, that by bribing some of the
leading men in the several cities, he might create
a division among the Greeks, and at length over
come all those who should resist him. But Mar
donius, according to the historian, was determined
to gratify his vanity by a second capture of that
city, although now empty and in ruins, and te
have the pleasure of communicating the event to
Xerxes at Sardes by fire-signals at night on the
intermediate islands of the iEgaean 1.
If the Persian war produced some of the finest
examples of human virtue which history affords,
there is no period in which the Greeks have at
the same time more strongly exhibited their cha
racteristic selfishness, jealousy, and the want of
genera] patriotism. It was chiefly the fear of an
alliance between the Persians and Athenians, and
of an attack upon the Laconic shores by their
united fleet, that induced the Lacedaemonians to
fight in company with the Athenians at Salamis.
The same apprehensions made them diligent in
endeavouring to counteract the efforts of Alex
ander, to produce a separate peace between the
Persians and Athenians ; but no sooner had their
anxiety upon this head been relieved, than, re
gardless of the entreaties of the Athenians, who

' The following stations Zia, Syra, Mykono, Nikaria,
would be sufficient for this Samo, Mount Gallesus and
purpose: — Mount Hymeilus, Mount Tmolus.

XVI. J BCEOTIA. 339
proposed that the Lacedaemonian army should
unite with theirs, and fight the enemy in the
Thriasian plain, at their entrance into Attica, they
delayed until that province was once more over
run and despoiled, and were not at length pre
vailed upon to march until after some evasions
and delays. Herodotus ascribes this conduct to
the completion of the wall across the Isthmus,
which was begun a little after the battle of Ther
mopylae, but was not yet finished when Alexander
arrived at Athens on his embassy ; nor were the
Lacedaemonians, according to the same historian,
at last moved to activity, but by the conviction
that even the fortified Isthmus would little avail
them, if the Athenians should be under the neces
sity of accepting the Persian proposals.
Mardonius, on his march from Athens towards
Bceotia, received intelligence that 1000 Lacedae
monians had arrived in the Megaris, upon which he
made a retrograde movement to intercept them, and
his cavalry overspread the Megaris 1 ; but as soon
as he heard that the rest of the Peloponnesian
army had arrived at the Isthmus, he continued his
route into Bceotia by Deceleia and Sphendaleae to
Tanagra. Here he passed a night : then took the
direction of Scolus, entered the Theban territory,

1 This was the most western as far as Delphi in the preced-
point in Europe, says Hero- ing year ; — an instance of the
dotus, which the Persian army inaccuracy of the ancient au-
reached (1/catrrctro/ rijg Evpiiirne thors, as to bearings, and a
to irpbg t/Xiov Bivovrog, 1. 9, proof of their defective geo-
c. 14.) though they had been graphy.

z

2

340 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
and encamped along the left bank of the Asopus,
his line extending from over-against Erythrae J, as
far as the Plataeis. In the midst of it he caused
to be erected a wooden fortification, flanked with
towers, and inclosing a square of eight stades ;
and in providing this place of refuge in case of
disaster, was under the necessity of injuring the
lands of the Thebans, although they were his
friends 2. The Grecian allies by whom Mardonius
was here joined, are vaguely computed by Hero
dotus at 50,000. In the motives of the alliance of
some of them we have again some curious exam
ples of the power of that neighbourly jealousy and
hostility which are a part of the Greek character.
Plataea and Thespiae were inimical to Thebes, and
therefore allied with Athens ; it was chiefly from
a hatred to Athens that Thebes became the most
zealous supporter of the Persian cause against the
common interests of Greece ; and the opposition of
Sparta to the Persians made Argos favourable to
them, though the situation of the latter was such
as rendered it incapable of affording the Persians
much assistance. Of all the auxiliaries, the Pho
cians joined Mardonius with the greatest unwilling
ness ; the others had accompanied him to Athens,

1 irapiJKE Be aiirov to arpa- wards tells us that the Greeks
totteBov dpi,dp£vov dirb 'Epu- at Erythrae, on the roots of
dpkbiv irapd 'Yaidg' KarkrEivE Be Cithaeron, were drawn up op-
EC riiv TlXarauSa yijv irapd tov posite to (civrErao-irovro) the
'Aamtrbv irarapov Ttray^Evov. Persians on the Asopus (kiri
— c. 15. np 'AaioirS). — c. 19.
Herodotus does not here say, 2 Kaiirsp pi)Bi^bvniiv. — c. 15.
" over-against," but be after-

XVI. J BCEOTIA. 341
but it was not until he returned to Thebes that the
Phocians joined him. Out of hatred to this people
the Thessalians had prevailed upon Xerxes in the
preceding year to destroy all the accessible parts
of Phocis, and had obliged the Phocians to retire
to the heights of Mount Parnassus, from whence
they assisted the Greek confederates by excursions
against the Persians and their allies ; but now
their country being at the mercy of the enemy,
and surrounded by medizing Greeks, they sent
1000 men to the Persian camp, who, having been
accused, as it would appear, by the Thessalians,
either of cowardice or treachery, were not received
until they had undergone the proof of standing
an attack from the Persian cavalry, which seems
from Herodotus to have been something more than
a mere feint.
The Lacedaemonians were joined at the Isthmus
by the other Peloponnesians, and the sacrifices
having been found auspicious, the army advanced
to Eleusis. Here the appearances of the victims
having again been favourable, they moved for
ward together with the Athenians, under the
command of Aristides, who had joined them
from Salamis, and proceeded to Erythrae, where
the position of the combined forces stretched along
the roots of Mount Cithaeron, opposite to the camp
of the Barbarians, on the Asopus. Mardonius
perceiving that the Greeks did not descend into
the plain, sent against them all his cavalry under
the command of Masistius, who was esteemed the
second man in the Persian army. The Megarenses,

342 BCEOTIA. [chap.
who were in the most exposed part of the Greek
line, finding themselves unequal to withstand the
attack, were obliged to call for succour, when the
only volunteers to relieve them were a body of
300 select Athenians, under Olympiodorus, ac
companied by a body of archers. The latter, by
wounding the horse of Masistius, caused the rider
to fall, when he was slain by the Athenians. His
followers endeavoured to recover the body, but all
the Greek infantry moving to the assistance of
Olympiodorus, the enemy retreated. The body
of Masistius carried through the camp of the
Greeks animated them with the best hopes, while
all Bceotia re-echoed to the sound of the enemy's
lamentations, who in token of mourning cut off
their beards, and the manes of the horses and
beasts of burthen. This was the only important
occurrence in the first position of the two armies.
The Greeks now came to the determination of
descending into the territory of Plataea, as being
more convenient for encamping than that of Ery
thrae, because among other reasons it was better
supplied with water1. In fact, the Plataeis being
situated at the foot of a high mountain, and at
the sources of many rivulets, can never be totally
deficient in water2. The Greeks at Erythrae,

1 rd Be aXXa /cat Ei/vcipdrEpoe. both relative and peculiar,
— c. 25. which cannot but often render
2 Besides this great conve- it a desirable position for an
nience, the position of Plataea encampment.
has other obvious advantages

XVI. J BCEOTIA 343
therefore, taking up their arms, moved along the
roots of Mount Cithaeron, and passed by Hysiae into
the Plataeis, having entered which they drew up in
order according to their respective nations l, partly
upon hills of no great height, and partly upon a
level plain2, near the fountain Gargaphia, and the
temenus of one of the archagetae, or ancient heroes
of Plataea, named Androcrates 3. As the position
of this heroum is shown by Thucydides to have
been on the right hand of the road from Plataea
to Thebes, about a mile distant from the city4,
and as a part of the Greek position was in the
plain, it is evident that the Gargaphia could not
have been either the fountain Vergutiani, or that
at Kriakuki. By ancient custom and the consent of all
Greece, the Lacedaemonians had the post of
honour on the right, and their king Pausanias the
command (though not, as it appears by the sequel,
a very absolute command) of the whole army.
After a contest between the Athenians and the
Tegeatae for the left, the Lacedaemonians awarded
to the former that second place of honour ; the Te
geatae took post on the left of the Lacedaemonians,
and the other nations occupied the centre. The
entire force was 110,000, in the proportions and
drawn up in the order from right to left stated below \

1 icara eBveu.—c. 25. 4 Thucyd. 1. 3, c. 24.
2 Sid <>x6W te oiix vifiyXGiv 5 Hoplitae of Sparta 5000 ;
Kal airkSov x^ptov. — c. 26. Laconia 5000 ; Tegea 1500 ;
3 V. et Plutarch, in Arist. Corinth 5000 ; Potidaea 300 ;

344 bceotia. [chap.
Their position is described by the historian as being
kiri rip 'Ao-unrtp, (on the Asopus,) and as it appears
from the subsequent part of his narrative, that the
Persians followed the movement of the Greeks
along the river, there could only have been a small
space on either bank between the hostile armies.
The fountain Gargaphia was in the part of the
line occupied by the Lacedaemonians, or towards
the right : the other Greeks watered from the
Asopus until they were prevented by the Persian
cavalry, to whom it appears that the Greeks had
no cavalry whatever to oppose, not even an escort
for the security of their convoys and reinforce
ments in crossing Mount Cithaeron. Nevertheless,
the Persians derived little benefit from this supe
riority, but showed a supineness and want of enter-
prize similar to that exhibited by the army of
Datis, when it was opposed for ten days to a
handful of Athenians at Marathon. It was not
until the end of eight days that Mardonius was
persuaded by a Theban to send a body of
horse to the pass of Mount Cithaeron, called
Orchomenus of Arcadia 600 4 Megara 3000 ; Platasa 600 ;

Sicyon 3000 ; Epidaurus 800
Trcezen 1000 ; Lepreum 200
Mycenae and Tiryns 400
Phlius 1000 ; Hermione 300

Athens 8000. Amount of
Hoplitae 38,700 : light-armed
Helots, seven to each Spartan
35,000 : other light-armed

Eretria and Styris of Eubcea 34,500 : Thespienses 1800.
600; Chalcis of Euboea 400 ; Amount of light-armed 7 1,300.
Ambracia 500 ; Leucas and Total of the Greek army
Anactorium 800 ; Paleia of 110,000.
Cephallenia 200 ; jEgina 500 ;

XVI. J BCEOTIA. 345
by the Athenians the Oak-heads ', and by the
Boeotians the Three-heads 2. Here they inter
cepted a convoy of 500 beasts of burthen, enter
ing the plains, and killed the greater part of both
men and cattle.
On the eleventh day, Mardonius, finding that
the Greeks were daily increasing in number, re
solved upon attacking them on the following day,
regardless of the advice of Artabazus, supported
by that of the Thebans, who recommended him to
retire to Thebes, where his provisions, which be
gan to fail, might be supplied ; and from whence,
protracting the war, he might, by means of the
bullion, coin, and plate, which he possessed in
great quantity, endeavour to gain over the leading
Greeks to his party. The advice appears to have
been good ; for on the one hand the cavalry of
Mardonius gave him the command of supplies, and
the power of intercepting those of the Greeks as
well as the means of distressing them by continual
attacks, while, on the other hand, he had every
thing to fear from a close contest with an infantry
compared with whom his own were but as light-
armed 3. It was probably in conformity with
these opinions, that the Greek priests on the side
of Mardonius had augured success to him, if he
remained on the defensive, while Tisamenus, who
accompanied the Spartans, probably from a similar
view of the interests of his employers, promised
1 ApvoaKE<j>dXai. irpbg yap birXirag kbvrEg yvp-
Tp£t£ KE^aAat. vrJTEg ayiova eitoievvto, c. 63.
3 dvoirXoi SI kbvrEg, c. 62.

346 BCEOTIA. [chap.
victory to the Greeks, provided they abstained
from crossing the Asopus, and awaited the attack.
Mardonius, however, declared his determination
to disregard every thing but the laws of the Per
sians, which enjoined them to engage the enemy,
and thenceforth no one dared give utterance to an
opinion contrary to that of the man to whom
Xerxes had delegated his absolute power.
In the intervening night, Alexander, king of
Macedonia, secretly visited the camp of the
Athenians, and informed the commanders of the
intentions of Mardonius, as well as of the ap
proaching failure of his provisions ; upon which
Pausanias requested the Athenians to change
places with the Lacedaemonians, on the plea that
the latter were unacquainted with the Persian
mode of fighting, whereas the Athenians had suc
cessfully opposed that people at Marathon ; for
Mardonius had placed the Persae, as being his
best troops, opposite to the Lacedaemonians, and
had opposed to the Athenians and to the Pla-
taeenses and Megarenses, who were next to the
Athenians on the left, the Macedonians, Thessa
lians, and Boeotians. But the Boeotians, having
quickly discovered the change, and reported it to
Mardonius, he restored the Persae to their position
in the left wing, and sent an insulting message
to the Lacedaemonians, who had returned to
their original post, with a proposal for a battle
between an equal number of Persians and
Lacedaemonians. No reply having been given to
his challenge, he ordered an attack upon the Gre-

XV I.] BCEOTIA. 347
cian line by his cavalry, who not only annoyed
extremely the hoplitae by their javelins and arrows,
but succeeded at length in obtaining possession of
the fountain Gargaphia, and in rendering it use
less ; and thus the Greeks, having already been
driven by the enemy's cavalry from the Asopus,
found themselves distressed for water. They
began also to be in want of other provisions, their
convoys being blockaded by the enemy in Cithae
ron, and unable to cross the mountain. The Greek
commanders, having been assembled by Pausanias
in the right wing, to consult upon these difficulties,
it was resolved, that if the Persians should not
come to action with their infantry that day, (for
as yet the cavalry only had attacked,) the
Greeks about midnight should retreat into a
plain in front of the city of Plataea called the
Island, where two branches of the river Oeroe,
after flowing for some distance, with an interval of
three stades between them, united, and formed one
stream. This place was ten stades distant from Gar
gaphia, and from the position of the Greeks on the
Asopus. The council also determined that half the
army should be detached from the Island during
the same night to Mount Cithaeron, to open the
passage for the camp followers 1 who had been sent
to the Peloponnesus for provisions. During the re
mainder of the day, however, the Greeks continued
to suffer so much from the enemy's cavalry, that
when the movement took place at night, none but
the Lacedaemonians and Tegeatae on the right, and
the Athenians on the left, continued resolute in the
1 ot SirkuivEg. — c. 50, 51.

348 BCEOTIA. [chap.
intention of marching into the island ; the Greeks
of the center, who perhaps with reason suspected
that they should not long be secure from the
hostile cavalry in the island, retreating as far as a
temple of Juno, which was twenty stades distant
from Gargaphia, ne&r the city of Plataea. The
Athenians, desirous of ascertaining whether the
Lacedaemonians had begun to move, sent a mes
senger to the right of the camp, who found Pausa
nias detained by an unexpected difficulty. Amom-
pharetus, the lochagus of the Pitanatae, refused to
disgrace Sparta, as he termed it, by retreating
before the enemy ; and he persisted so obstinately
in his determination, that day-light found the two
wings of the Greek army in the position of the
preceding day, but separated from each other by
the whole interval left by the other Greeks, who
were now at a distance of two or three miles in
the rear. Pausanias, convinced that the enemy
would soon take advantage of this state of things,
and judging that Amompharetus would not long
remain after his departure, retired with the main
body of the Lacedaemonians and the Tegeatae along
the heights and the base of Mount Cithaeron \
thereby avoiding the enemy's cavalry ; while the
Athenians proceeded through the plain, in the
direction of Plataea. At the end of ten stades Pau
sanias halted on the bank of the Moloeis, at a
place called Argiopius, where stood a temple of
Ceres Eleusinia, and was joined there by Amom
pharetus. 1 tG>v te o'xoViv avTci\ovro (cat rrjg viruipEtrjg tov KiBaipHvog. —
c. 56.

XVI. J bceotia. 349
The Persian cavalry meantime, on perceiving
that the Greeks had abandoned their position,
pursued and harassed them on every side, while
Mardonius, recollecting the pains which the Lace
daemonians had taken to avoid the troops opposed
to them on the preceding day, and supposing that
they no longer intended to fight, crossed the Asopus
with all his army, who advanced in the most disor
derly manner, shouting as if about to gain an easy
victory, with which Mardonius himself was the more
impressed, as the Tegeatae and Lacedaemonians only
were visible, the Athenians in the plain being con
cealed by some heights, and the other Greeks being
still more distant.
Pausanias having dispatched a horseman to the
Athenians to require their aid, or, if they should
be too much pressed by the enemy, at least that of
their archers ; the Athenians began to move to
their right, but were so much exposed to the at
tacks of the auxiliary Greeks on the Persian right,
that they were unable to give the Lacedaemonians
any assistance whatever. Pausanias was obliged,
therefore, to prepare for resisting all the efforts of
Mardonius with the Lacedaemonians and Tegeatae
alone, amounting to 53,000, of whom little more
than a third were hoplitae. At first, the appear
ance of the victims was declared unfavourable, and
the Greeks consequently remained inactive, suffer
ing severely from the missiles of the Persians, dis
charged from behind a breastwork of shields l ; but

1 <jipd£,avT£g rd ykppa, c. 61. action on shore fought on the
In like manner atMycale, in the same day as that of Plataea, the

350 bceotia. [chap.
at length Pausanias, having turned his eyes towards
the temple of Juno, and invoked the assistance of
the goddess, which was immediately followed by
a favourable report of the victims, the Lacedaemo
nians advanced to the attack, though not until the
Tegeatae, who had not waited for similar auspices,
had already set the example. The action now
became close and general, first at the breastwork
of shields, and afterwards at the Eleusinium in
Argiopius. The Persians were not inferior to their
adversaries in valour, and such was their strength
and resolution, that many seized upon the spears
of the Greeks with their hands and broke them in
pieces ; but not being protected by such defensive
armour as that of the hoplitae, being unused to the
Greek mode of fighting, and being inferior in dis
cipline and formation, their valour was of little
avail l ; and as they rushed forward, either singly
or in small bodies, they were slain by the Spar
tans. Wherever Mardonius appeared, mounted upon
a white horse, and surrounded by his select body
of cavalry of 1000 Persae, they sustained the attack
ofthe Lacedaemonians and slew many of them ; but
when he fell by the hand of the Spartan Aeimnes-
tus, and his body-guard was defeated, the rest
gave way before the Spartans and fled, having
little chance with their unarmed dresses and irre-
Persians made a rampart of E<r<70i'£e iaav ol Ilkpaai' avo7rXot
shields : avvEipbprjaav ra ysppa Sk kbvrEg, Kal irpoc dvEiriarr)-
'kpKog eTvoi aijii. — Herodot. 1. 9, povEg kaav, /cat ou/c bpoloi rdiai
c. 99. kvavrioiai oo<j>lt\v. — c. 62.
1 Xt'ipan pkv vvv Kalpuipy ovk

XVI. J BCEOTIA. 351
gular order against men covered with armour, and
formed into an inseparable phalanx. " And thus,"
adds Herodotus, " Pausanias, the son of Cleom-
brotus, gained the most splendid victory I have
ever heard of." Meantime the Athenians, with
their comrades of Plataea and Thespiae, had de
feated the Boeotians, had slain 300 Thebans, and
had obliged the remainder to retreat to Thebes.
When the Greeks at the Heraeum heard that the
battle was gained, they proceeded in a disorderly
manner towards Argiopius. The Corinthians
marched by the heights directly to the Eleusi-
nium, and reached it in safety, but the Mega-
renses and Phliasii having followed the better road
through the plain, were attacked by the Theban
cavalry, lost 600 men, and were pursued to
Cithaeron. Artabazus, who had previously given orders to
the 40,000 men whom he commanded, waited only
to be assured of the result which he expected from
the rashness of Mardonius, when he marched off
from the field of battle towards Phocis, and con
tinuing his route to the northward with all possible
celerity, preceded every where the news of the
victory, and thus arrived at Byzantium, though
not without having sustained considerable loss
from famine, fatigue, and hostile Thracians. When
the Persae began to retreat, great numbers of the
army, who usually looked to them for example, fled
without ever having been engaged and were slain
by the Greeks, who would have effected a much
greater slaughter had not the fugitives been pro
tected by the cavalry. Ofthe Greek auxiliaries on
13

352 bceotia. [chap.
the side of the Persians, the Boeotians alone fought
in earnest, but particularly the Thebans, three
hundred of whose best men were slain by the
Athenians. The Persians had only entered the wooden for
tress, mounted the towers, and made some pre
parations for defence, when the Lacedaemonians
arrived. But these being unskilled in the attack of
fortified places, made little progress until they had
the assistance of the Athenians. After a long and
obstinate contest, a part of the wall was thrown
down, and the Tegeatae had the honour of being
the first to enter. The barbarians then made no
further effort, but allowed themselves to be killed
without resistance. Out of the original 300,000
there escaped, besides the 40,000 of Artabazus,
not more than 3000, who were said to have been
slain in their passage through Macedonia, by order
of Perdiccas the son of king Alexander1.
The spoil which fell to the share of the con
querors was immense. Besides the rich tents and
their furniture, the clothing and arms ofthe slain,
there was a profusion of utensils of gold and silver,
as well as of the precious metals both in coin and
bullion : so numerous in particular were the gold
Darics, that they became for a long period after
wards one of the current coins of Greece, and are
still often found in this country. From the tenth
of the spoil, dedicated to the gods, were formed
the golden tripod of Delphi, supported by three
1 Demosth. Orat. ir£pt awTafcwg, p. 167. In Aristocr. p. 687.
Reiske.

XVI. J BCEOTIA. 353
twisted serpents of brass1, a brazen Jupiter fifteen
feet in height at Olympia, and a brazen Neptune
ten feet high at the Isthmus. Some presents were
made, beyond their share, to those who distin
guished themselves ". The remainder was divided
among the conquerors. To Pausanias was assigned
a tenth of every thing : women, horses, camels,
gold and silver. The Tegeatae, who were the first to
enter the tent of Mardonius, carried off the brazen
manger of his horses, and placed it in the temple of
Minerva Alea, at Tegea ; the Athenians obtained
his silver-footed chair, and his scimetar, valued at
300 darics, which they dedicated in the temple of
Minerva Polias iu the Acropolis 3. On the side
of the Greeks there fell only ninety-one Lacedae
monians, sixteen Tegeatae, and fifty-two Athenians.
As Herodotus particularly specifies, that these La
cedaemonians were Spartans, it appears that the
numbers indicate the loss of the hoplitae only, and
that he has omitted to notice, or was not informed,
how many of the light-armed fell.
It is scarcely worth while to advert to the par
ticulars in which the other ancient authors, who
have related this great event, differ from Herodo
tus : Diodorus and Plutarch lived so long after
wards that they cannot have much weight against
1 Supposed with great reason of these gifts: — oo-a pkv vw
to he that of which a part of the E^atpEra rottrt apiarEvaaai av-
hrass support remained, not teoiv kv TlXaTatrjai kBbBrt, ov
many years ago, and perhaps XsyErai 7rpo£ ovBapwv, Bokeoi o"
still remains in the Hippodrome Eyo/yE /cat tovtoioi SoBijvai. —
of Constantinople. c. 81.
2 Herodotus believed so, but a Demosth. inTimocrat. p.
could not learn any particulars 741. Pausan. Attic, c. 27.
VOL. II. a a -*—

354 BCEOTIA. [chap.
the testimony of the contemporary historian ; the
former, however, does not deviate from it in any
important point, and the contradictions of the latter
are undeserving of much respect, as being those
of a Boeotian angry with Herodotus for having
spoken freely of the disgraceful conduct of his
conntrymen, and thinking no mode of exculpation
so effectual as that of throwing general discredit
upon the historian's accuracy. But impartiality
and an anxiety for the truth are conspicuous in the
narrative of Herodotus. Although he was by no
means an admirer of the Lacedaemonians, and ac
cuses them of habitual deceit and perfidy, both his
facts and his sentiments give the chief glory of
the day to the 10,000 Lacedaemonians and their
comrades the Tegeatae, nor could the admirable
conduct of Pausanias have received so fine a pane
gyric from the most laboured oratory, as it has from
the simple language ofthe historian.
It has been doubted bv some travellers who have
visited the Plataeis, whether so great a number of
men as Herodotus has mentioned, could have ma
noeuvred and fought on so small a field, and hence
they have suspected some error or exaggeration
on the part of the historian. It certainly appears
possible, on considering how reluctantly some of
the Greeks advanced into Bceotia, how ill others
behaved in the field, and that the reinforcements
were continuing to arrive at the Greek camp up to
the very eve of the battle, that the amount of the
several contingents stated by Herodotus, may rather
have been that which each city engaged to send,
than those actually present, and that in many in-

XVI. J BCEOTIA. 355
stances there may have been deficiencies. As to the
light troops, more than half of whom were com
posed of Helotes, attending upon the Spartans in
the proportion of seven to one, we are too little
acquainted with the details of Spartan discipline
to know whether there was any accurate muster of
this force, or whether their attendance depended
upon the individual Spartans whom they served,
for upon this must have greatly depended their
complement in the field : whether complete or not,
it appears, at least, that they were in little estima
tion as light troops ", the Lacedaemonians having
been urgent in requesting the assistance of the
Athenian bowmen at Argiopius. Similar suspi
cions may attach to the numbers of the light-
armed of the Greek centre. As to the most effi
cient part of the army, however, the Lacedaemo
nian and Athenian hoplitae, and those who fought
with them, they fully amounted, as there is every
reason to believe, to the numbers stated by Hero
dotus, so that it cannot be supposed that fewer
than 30,000 hoplitae were assembled, nor less than
double the number of light troops. For such an
army the space was amply sufficient in each of
the three positions which they occupied. In the
first and second the front was about three miles in
length, with an indefinite space in the rear. On
the day of battle the hoplitae formed three separate
bodies, two of these had each a mile for their
front, and there was nearly a square league of
ground to contain all the light troops, together
1 Yet Herodotus says they irapriprriro u>g kg irbXEpov. —
were trained to war : irag Tig 1. 9, c. 29.
A a 2

356 BCEOTIA. [chap.
with those hoplitae who had formed the centre of
the Greek line in their second position, and who
in the third were in the rear near the Heraeum.
The right, consisting of the Lacedaemonians and
Tegeatae, amounted to 11,500 hoplitae ; such a body
drawn up in the space of a mile, which was about
the extent of the position, with a breadth of three
feet to each man1, would have had about seven in
file, a depth which, although very small compared
with that of the phalanx when military science was
at its height among the Greeks2, was perhaps as
great as was then customary. The left wing,
composed of the Athenians and their comrades,
amounted to about 16,000, including light armed,
but their duty having been chiefly to resist cavalry,
they were probably formed into a close phalanx,
and occupied very little ground. As to the enemy's
force, the estimate of Herodotus has evidently no
pretensions to accuracy, for though he conjectures
the Greek auxiliaries to have amounted to 50,000,
he admits that their real amount was unknown3;
and in reckoning the Persians at 300,000 4, he
seems to have merely adopted the maximum of
the army of Mardonius, as nominated by Xerxes
ten months before, having been unwilling perhaps
to question the accuracy of the tradition which had
1 At Marathon about the 2 Polyb. 1. 18, c. 12.
same number of the hoplitae of 3 rwi- cSe 'EXXyiviov t&v Map-
Athens and Plataea occupied, Soviov avpp.dxi>iv oIBe fikv
together with their light troops, ovSelg dpid/xov. — Herodot. 1. 9,
a front of two miles ; but this c. 32.
was from necessity, and we are 4 c. 32, 70.
told that their centre was very
weak.

xvi. J bceotia. 357
been sanctioned by the lapse of twenty years, and
to which the Greeks, for the sake of their own
glory, had readily given credit. The historian has
not hinted at any recruiting from Asia for the pur
pose of supplying either the ordinary waste in the
army of Mardonius, or that diminution of 20,000,
which he shows lo have taken place in the division
of Artabazus, in the course of its march to the
Hellespont, and in the subsequent operations in
Thrace. But with every allowance for such de
ductions, it is difficult to believe that the Persian
army on the Asopus was not two or three times
as numerous as that of the Greeks, independently
of its followers. Even on the supposition however
that they were three to one, there was sufficient
space for them in the Plataeis, as none but the
choicest infantry were immediately opposed to the
Greeks, and the cavalry, as well as the light armed,
on both sides may have been spread over a space
of 12 or 14 square miles. Even in modern war
fare, in which the greater range of missiles has
created an order of battle much less deep than
among the ancients, examples might be found of
fields of battle as small, in proportion to the num
bers, as that of Plataea '.
Another point in the narrative of Herodotus
which may present at first sight some difficulty to
a person who views the scene of action at Plataea,
is the word v?jo-oc 2, there being no island, properly
1 At Borodino 250,000 men IkvaC r) Be kan dirb tov 'Aawirov
fought for fifteen hours within /cat rr)g /cpiyj/jje rijg TapyaQirjg,
the space of little more than eV y karparoirEBEvovTo tote,
a square league. Skm araSiovg hirkxovaa, irpb rijg
2 ecWie  kg rfjv vrjaov IIXaratEW irbXiog. vijaog Sk

358 bceotia. [chap.
so called, in front of Plataea or in any part of the
Plataeis. The place which Herodotus so accurately
indicates as being before the city, at a distance of ten
stades from the Asopus as well as from Gargaphia,
is nothing more than a level meadow intersected
by several brooks uniting into one stream. But
this is probably all that the historian meant by
an island. His description of it as formed by two
streams which were separated from one another
in Mount Cithaeron, and were afterwards united, is
entirely conformable to present appearances. If
he had intended a real island, it would not have
been necessary for him to make any mention of the
two branches in Mount Cithaeron, since the sepa
ration of the waters of a single stream, and their re
union, would have been sufficient to form the island.
It is easy to imagine that the Plataeenses may have
distinguished this part of their plain by the name
of Island, although it was in reality no more than
a peninsula. The ambiguity of this passage has not
been diminished by the translators of Herodotus \
who, by referring the word oi to vijo-oc instead of to
ovtui av Eiy kv j)ir£tpw* <rxt£o- tuiv. fiETaKivEEaBal te eSokee
pEVog b TroTafxog civuiBev e/c tov tote etteAv rrjg vvKrbg rj BEVrkpr)
H.idaip£ivog p£Ei Karoi kg rb ite- ipvXaKt), dig av /J-r) ISolaro ol
Siov, Sikxw air' aXXr/Xitiv ret LTEpirat kS,oppEoipkvovg Kal atpkag
pE£0pa oaovirEp rpia ardBia Kal kirbpEvoi rapdaaouv ol lirirbrai.
EirEira avppiaysi kg riivrb' oil- diriKOfikvdiv Bk kg tov x^Pov
vopa Be ol 'QiEpby. Ovyarkpa Be tovtov, tov Br) r) 'Aaaiirlg 'Q^Epoy
Tavrrjv Xkyovai klvai 'Aauiirov irEpiaxi^ETai pkovaa e/c tov Ri
ot Eirixwptot. 'Ec tovtov Br) tov Baip&vog, iiirb rr)v vvKra ravryv
XtZpov kfiovXEvaavTo pEravaarij- eBokee rovg fipiakag diroarkX-
vai, 'iva Kal vBan ix^ai xP"-a~ Xeiv, &c. — Herodot. 1. 9, c. 51.
flat dijiObva, Kal ol IwirkEg aijikag l Littlebury, Larcher and
fit) aivoiaro &air£p Knr' tBv kbv- Beloe.

xvi.] bceotia. 359
¦n-oTapoQ, have represented Oeroe as the name of the
island, whereas the historian in describing the island
as the place 1 which Oeroe the daughter of Asopus
surrounds 2, clearly shows Oeroe to have been the
river. Their mistake may have partly arisen from
the belief that the river which formed the island
was a branch of the Asopus, a very natural suppo
sition for them to have made in ignorance of the
real topography, as Herodotus no where indicates
the contrary, and as it is greatly favoured by the
local mythus, according to which Oeroe was the
daughter of Asopus. We find, however, as I have
before stated, that although the sources of the
Asopus and Oeroe are very near to one another,
they are not only separate rivers, but flow in oppo
site directions, the former to the Euboic channel,
the latter to the Corinthiac Gulf.
Plataea, although enjoying many local advan
tages, was not happily situated for the repose of its
inhabitants, who continually exposed to danger
from their more powerful neighbours of Thebes,
and obliged to have recourse to the aid of Athens,
were thus dependent upon a comparatively distant
alliance, while their enemies were only two hours'
march from them. Hence the extensive walls, of
which we still see the remains, and which served
as an occasional shelter to the whole population of
the Plataeis. The first alliance of Plataea with
Athens was in the year B. C. 519 3 ; it was firmly
cemented by the two Persian invasions, and by a
community of perils and glory at Marathon and
1 xs>P0V- 3 Herodot. 1. 6, c. 108.
2 ir£piaxi(Erai. Thucyd. 1. 3, c. 68.

360 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
Plataea. These best times of Plataea, ended with
the alliance of Thebes and Sparta against Athens.
The first act of hostility of the Thebans against
Plataea, in the Peloponnesian war, was an attempt
to obtain possession of the place by stratagem.
Three hundred men were admitted within the
walls by some Plataeenses of the Theban faction,
and the design only failed by the occurrence of a
dark and rainy night, which being accompanied by
a sudden increase of the Asopus, prevented the
Thebans from supporting their comrades in the
town, 180 of whom were, in consequence, taken
and put to death \
In the beginning of the third summer of the
same war, B. C. 429, the Lacedaemonians and
Boeotians commenced a siege of Plataea, which
lasted three years, and which has given occasion
to Thucydides to furnish us with some curious
particulars of the military customs of the Greeks,
and of the state of the art of the attack and defence
of fortified places at that remote period2. In
the first year, the besiegers, after various devices
which were frustrated by the garrison, were equally
unsuccessful in an attempt to burn the city by
throwing sulphur and pitch into it, with faggots of
wood, which the adjacent Cithaeron supplied in
abundance. Thucydides observes, that they were
prompted to this mode of offence, by the smallness
of the city : a remark by no means in agreement
with the existing ruins, which are not less than two
miles and a half in circumference, but favourable
1 Thucyd. 1. 2, c. 2, et seq.
2 Thucyd. 1. 2. c. 75, et seq.— 1. 3, c. 20.

XVI. J

BCEOTIA.

361

to the conjecture already offered, that Plataea was
confined at that time to the southern extremity of
the existing remains. In almost every other part,
the masonry is of a less ancient kind, and the ruins
of former buildings may be detected among the
materials, which is no more than consistent with
the troubled history of the later Plataea, and the
many repairs and renewals which it underwent.
All the efforts of the allies during the first summer
of the siege having failed, they converted it into a
blockade, and raised a circumvallation round the
city, consisting of two parallel walls, sixteen feet
asunder, with a ditch on either side. Square
towers, of the same breadth as the double wall,
and covered with roofs, were raised at intervals of
about seventy feet ' along the wall, and afforded a
passage through them round the whole circumval
lation. Huts were built for the blockading force
between the walls, which thus served as an en
trenched camp to the investing force, as well against
the Plataeenses from within, as against the Athenians
in the opposite direction. A detachment of Lace-

1 This distance rests only
upon a computation, founded
upon there having been ten
E7rdX££i£, or battlements, be
tween the towers, and conse
quently eleven embrasures. In
one part of the walls of Mes-

sene, where the battlements are
well preserved, they are about
three feet and a half broad, and
the embrasures between them
a little less. Thus :
10x31 + 11x3=68.

362 bceotia. [chap.
daemonians was left to garrison one half of the
work, and the Boeotians had the charge of the
other, while the main body of the respective armies
retired to winter quarters. The Plataeenses had
sent all their women, children, and aged, to
Athens, before the siege, and there remained
in the city only 400 Plataeenses and 80 Athe
nians, with 110 women to prepare their food. A
year afterwards, or in the course of the fourth
winter of the war, the besieged being in great dis
tress for provision, formed the design of forcing the
enemy's line of blockade, and succeeded in effecting
it : a portion of them escaladed the wall in the
middle of a tempestuous night, and seized two ad
jacent towers, from whence, by the assistance of a
false attack of the remaining garrison of the town,
on an opposite part of the circumvallation, they
effected their passage over the wall with the loss
of only one man, though not without meeting with
a vigorous opposition at the outer ditch. Foreseeing
that the Peloponnesians would proceed to search
for them on the road to the Dryoscephalae, they
took the road to Thebes, along which they had
marched seven or eight stades, when perceiving
the torches of the enemy searching for them on the
road to Dryoscephalae, they turned to the right,
and made the best of their way to the mountains
near Erythrae and Hysiae. Two hundred and
twelve thus escaped in safety to Athens.
In the course of the ensuing summer, the re
mainder of the garrison of Plataea surrendered to
the Lacedaemonians, and after pleading their cause
against the Thebans before five judges sent for this
13

XVI. J BCEOTIA. 363
purpose from Sparta, were all put to death, being
in number 200 Plataeenses and 25 Athenians ; the
women who had remained in the city were sold for
slaves, and the city having been given up to the
Thebans, was razed to the ground in the ensuing-
year. The lands of the Plataeis were let for ten
years to Thebans; a building of two stories, con
taining numerous chambers for the reception of
travellers, was built out of the ruins of the city
near the temple of Juno, and a new temple was
constructed in honour of the Goddess.
The Plataeenses had remained for forty years in
servitude or exile, when they were restored to their
country by the effect of the peace of Antalcidas,
B. C. 387, but they were only thirteen years in
possession of it when the city was again razed to
the ground by the Thebans, and the inhabitants
once more obliged to take shelter in Attica \ On
this occasion, as in the first year of the Peloponne
sian war, the Thebans resorted to stratagem. At
an hour when the people of Plataea were employed
in the fields, and supposed the Thebans to be en
gaged in the public assembly, the latter marched
round by Hysiae, and finding the city undefended,
obliged those remaining within it to evacuate it by
capitulation. After the battle of Chaeroneia, Philip,
among other modes of humiliating the Thebans,
restored the Plataeenses to their city. And to this date
all the existing walls, except those at the southern
extremity, may with great probability be attributed.
If the Plataea of the time of the Peloponnesian
1 Pausan. Boeot. c. 1.

364 BCEOTIA. [chap.
war, was confined to the southern part of the ancient
site, and the city was not then of large dimensions,
it will follow that the table height, immediately
overlooking the Island, was then excluded from the
city, and this supposition seems necessary, to re
concile the words of Herodotus with present ap
pearances. On that table height probably stood
the Heraeum, or temple of Juno before the city1,
which, in the time of the Antonines, was within the
walls. Thus conspicuously situated without the
walls, and just in the rear of the position of Ar-
giopius, it was natural for the Greek commander
to turn his eyes towards it, and implore the assist
ance of the Goddess when he was suffering under
the attacks of the Persians, without being able to
repel them, because the appearance ofthe victims
was pronounced unfavourable. After the erection
of the new temple of Juno by the Thebans, it is
probable that the old Heraeum was no longer re
paired, for Pausanias mentions only one temple of
Juno, and by remarking that it was of great mag
nitude, seems to identify it with that built by the
Thebans, and described by Thucydides as a vewc
ekotojutteSoc XiQivos, which if we are to take the second
word literally, would imply a building about the
same size as the Parthenon. It contained a colossal
upright Juno, surnamed Teleia, and at the entrance
a Rhea presenting a stone to Cronus, both of Pentelic
marble, and made by Praxiteles : there was also a
Juno Nympheuomene by Callimachus. The temple
of Minerva, surnamed Areia, was built from a share
1 7Tpo rijg irbXwg,

XVI.J BCEOTIA. 365
of the spoils of Marathon, and contained a statue
of the Goddess by Phidias, nearly as large as that
which he made from the same spoils for the Athe
nians ; but the latter was of brass, whereas that of
Plataea was acrolithic, the face, hands and feet
being of Pentelic marble, and the rest of gilded
wood \ At the feet of the Goddess was the image 2
of Arimnestus who commanded the Plataeenses
both at Marathon and Plataea 3. There were two
pictures on the walls of the Pronaus, one by Po-
lygnotus, of which the subject was Ulysses slaying
the suitors ; the other by Onatas, represented the
first expedition of the Argives against Thebes.
The city contained also a temple of Ceres Eleusinia4,
and a tomb of Leitus, the only one of the Boeotian
chiefs who returned from Troy. Within the gate
which led to Eleutherae was the heroum of Plataea,
daughter of Asopus, and on the outside of the same
1 Pausan. Boeot. c. 2. — Plu- 3 See also Herodot. 1. 9,
tarch differs from Pausanias, c. 72. — Plutarch in Aristide.
by asserting that the temple of 4 This temple was probably
Minerva Areia was built at the erected after the war, and in
expence of eighty talents, set consequence of the cireumstan-
apart for that purpose from the ces of the battle. The temple
spoils of Plataea, not of Mara- of Ceres Eleusinia at Argiopius,
thon. That he meant the same was an old building, the exist-
temple is clear, from his allusion ence of which was so little
to the pictures described by known, that it had created a
Pausanias, and which Plutarch misunderstanding as to the
observes, pkxpi vvv aKpdfovaai meaning of an oracle brought
Siajikvovaiv, so that they were from Delphi by Aristides, which
in perfect preservation at the recommended the Greeks to
end of six centuries. fight in the plain of Ceres Eleu-
EiKiav. — Pausan. Boeot. sinia and Core, this having been
c- 4. interpreted to mean the plain

366

BCEOTIA.

[chap.

gate the temple 1 of Jupiter Eleutherius, which in
the time of Pausanias seems to have been reduced
to an altar and statue ; it was established after the
victory by command of the Oracle of Delphi, and
by a decree proposed by Aristides it was the scene
of a quinquennial festival called the Eleutheria 2.
Here stood also a brazen trophy for the victory
over the Persians, tombs of the Lacedaemonians
and Athenians who fell on that occasion, inscribed
with elegies by Simonides, and > a polyandrium
of the other Greeks 3. The position of these mo
numents is marked, perhaps, by a ruined church

of Eleusis, until some of the
elders of Plataea pointed out
the ancient temple in the Pla
taeis. (Plutarch, in Aristid.)
That Plutarch should have de
scribed the old Eleusinium as
having been near Hysiae, as
well as near the heroum of An-
drocrates, is not very surprizing
in an author who is so often in
accurate in his topography. It
was indeed toward Hysiae, but
it must have been considerably
nearer to Plataea, if Thucydides
is correct in stating that the
Plataeenses, when they escaped
from their blockaded city, had
the heroum of Androcrates on
their right, when they had
marched less than eight stades
on their road to Thebes.
1 tEpoV. Strabo, p. 412.
2 Plutarch, in Aristide. —

According to the biographer
the personages worshipped by
the Plataeenses were Jupiter,
who after the battle was sur
named Eleutherius, Juno Ci-
thaeronia, Ceres Eleusinia and
Proserpine, Pan, the Nymphs
Sphragitides, and seven ancient
archagetae, or heroes, of whom
Androcrates was the chief.
3 The Lacedaemonians, ac
cording to Herodotus (1. 9, c.
85.) had three separate BrjKai;
the Athenians and Tegeatae
each a tomb, and the Megaren-
ses and Phliasii a joint sepul
chre, besides which there were
seven cenotaphs of people who
had not been engaged, and
among them one of the JEgi-
netae, which was not erected
until ten years after the battle.

XVI. J BCEOTIA. 367
near the right bank of the torrent, on the left bank
of which, nearly opposite to the chapel, are the
foundations of a gate, already alluded to, in the
eastern walls of Plataea, not far from the north
eastern angle. This gate is placed within a qua
drangular court or retirement of the walls, and
appears to have been the principal gate of the city,
as we may easily conceive it to have been, since it
was conveniently situated for leading not only to
Eleutherae and Athens, to Megara and the Isthmus,
but also to Thebes, Chalcis and Tanagra.

CHAPTER XVII.
BCEOTIA, ATTICA, MEGARIS.
Departure from Thebes — Therapnae — Scolus — Plain of Sialissi —
Panactum — St. Meletius — Derveno-khoria — Ghyft6-kastro,
(Enoe — Myupoli, Eleutherae — Pass of Sarandaporo — Cephis
sus — Plain of Eleusis and Thria — Rheiti — Temple of Venus
Phila — Dhafni, Temple of Apollo on Mount Pcecilum — Arrival
at Athens — Geography of the Megaris — Route from Eleusis
to Megara — Description of Megaraby Pausanias — Long Walls
— Nisaea — Minoa — JEgosthen a — Pagae — Erin eia — Isus —
Mount Kandili, Cerata — Mount Karyclbi — the Oneia — Po-
lichne — Tripodiscus — Mgeirusa — Geraneia — Cimolia — Sci-
rone, rocks Scironides.
Jan. 1, 1806.— From Thebes to St. Meletius on
the way to Athens. — Leaving the town by the
southern gate, which may stand nearly on the site
of that which led from the Cadmeia into Lower
Thebes, the aqueduct is on the right. Like the
town walls, it exhibits many remains of antiquity,
and stands perhaps on Roman foundations. In one
place a sepulchral monument is inserted in the
masonry, bearing the common device of a horse
man, with one of his horse's feet raised, and rest
ing upon an altar. At 9.56 pass the fountain ofthe
Ismenus on the left side of the road. At 10, leave
on the right the road to Kriakuki and the pass of
Mount Cithaeron, leading to Corinth, called by the
Turks the Kasa-derveni, and at 10.8 to the left,
that which leads to Athens by Sialissi and Phyle.

CHAP. XVII. J BCEOTIA. 369
Having descended the long slope of the Psilirakhi,
or low central Theban ridge to the Asopus, we
cross that river at 11.1, at the point where it is
joined by the Rema, which separates Katzula from
Bubuka. A small tjiftlik belonging to Rashid
Bey, called Samoili, stands on the bank to our
left. The river flows with a brisk but slender
stream. Therapnce seems to have stood in this
route between Thebes and the Asopus ; for Euri
pides, in describing the death of Pentheus, says
that he went from Therapnae across the Asopus to
the place in Cithaeron, where he met his fate ; and
which, as we learn from Strabo, was near Scolus \
Ascending the cultivable slope of Cithaeron, but
which like all this part of the Parasopia is little
cultivated, we arrive, at 11.33, at the Metokhi,
described on the 30th of December as standing
below the projecting point of the Ci'thasronian
range. The brow of the summit on which the
Metokhi stands is surrounded by the foundation
of a Hellenic wall, and has evidently been a for
tress or citadel ; as I before remarked, it was pro
bably Scolus. The walls were of a very antique
kind of masonry. A little beyond the Metokhi is a
copious source of water, which no doubt determined
the site of the ancient town as well as of the mo
dern farm. About a mile farther, in ascending
the steep side of Cithaeron, we leave Tarimari, a
village of thirty houses, below us, close on the
left, and soon afterwards enter a ravine between
two ridges of the mountain, answering exactly to
1 Euripid. in Bacch. v. 1029. Strabo, p. 408.
VOL. II. B b

370 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
the description given by Euripides ' of the place
where Pentheus was destroyed by the Maenades,
except that the pine-forests do not now extend
below the higher parts of the mountain. The
ravine continues, including a halt of ten minutes,
until 12.25, when we ascend the steep side of the
ridge on the left, and at 12.28, having arrived
upon the crest, look down upon a small stony plain
extending towards the summit of Parnes. The
direct road from Thebes to Athens by Phyle crosses
this elevated plain, and then enters another in which
are the villages of Sialissi, vulgarly Shalish, and
Skurta. We proceed at 12.42, and continuing
along the same kind of rugged steep road, have,
at 1.35, the plain of Sialissi on our left a mile
distant ; and the village of that name surrounded
by vineyards, in the nearest corner of it : two
miles farther, is Skurta, on the foot of the great
heights of Parnes. The Phyle road leaves these
places to the left. There are three other vil
lages in the valley named Kako Niskivi, Kadha-
sula, and Kurora. This plain, which sepa
rates the great height of Cithaeron from those
of Parnes^ is probably that neutral territory of
Panactum, of which Thucydides speaks. It
yields corn and vines, but the soil seems meagre
and stony, and better adapted to the latter
production. The neighbouring heights of Parnes
are well clothed with trees of various kinds, and

'Hv cl' ctyicoc aptyiKpypvov vSaai Bidfipoxov
TlEVKaiai avaKidfav. Bacch. v. 1049.

XVII.J ATTICA. 371
the summit consists entirely of a forest of pines.
We continue to mount, and at 1,42 arrive at the
summit of the ridge of Cithaeron, from whence
there is a fine view of the country on either side.
The northern part of the Megaric peninsula lying
between the western extremity of the Corinthiac
Gulf and the bay of Eleusis, and bounded by the
plain of Megara to the south, consists chiefly of
mountains, of which the two principal summits are
Karydhi to the west, and Kandili, overhanging the
bay of Eleusis. The latter, as well from the an
cient authorities as from its form, is evidently the
summit called rd Kipara, or the horns l. The range
of Karydhi has a direction parallel to that of
Cithaeron, and is separated from it by the valleys
of Ghermano, Vilia, and Myupoli, which latter is
the largest of the three. Karydhi and Kandili have
a similar separation by means of the hollows about
Kundura. We look directly down the Saronic
Gulf, upon the island of St. George, anciently
Belbina ; to the right of which are Salamis, and
the mountains of Argolis and vEgina, and to the
left the plain of Thria, and the mountains Hymet-
tus and Parnes. A descent of thirty-five minutes
by a winding road, through a forest of pines,
brings us to the monastery of St. Meletius, situ
ated on the southern face of the mountain, which
falls into the plain of Myupoli by a succession of
cultivated terraces, Assisted with a few of the con
veniences and embellishments of art, St. Meletius

1 The modern name Kav- to sharp peaks. Karydhi is
djXi, candle, is often applied from Kapua, walnut-tree.
Bb2

372 ATTICA. [chap.
woiild be a delightful retreat. The buildings are
mantled with ivy, and around them issue plentiful
sources of water, which descend, shaded by large
bay-trees, to the gardens, and the hanging woods
of olives and beeches on the side of the mountain,
preserving them in a state of perpetual verdure,
which is finely contrasted on every side with the
wild rocks and the dark pine-forests of Cithaeron.
The weather is now perfectly clear and serene, and
the season more deserves the name of KaXonaipiov
than the greater partof that to which the word is usu
ally applied, when the air is inflamed, the ground
parched, every stream dried up, and not a green
herb to be seen. The monastery is well endowed,
and besides corn land possesses 3000 head of
sheep and goats on the mountains. The church
of St. Meletius, which is of the time of the Byzan
tine empire, is supported within by two octagonal
columns of a veined marble of the colour of por
phyry, which, according to the monks, was ex
tracted from the side of the hill, not far above the
monastery. As the Greek advent is not yet over,
the house contains but scanty fare ; but the Igu-
meno ', immediately on my arrival, sends one of
his monks to the rocks in front of the convent,
who, with a voice that would have done honour to
Menelaus, calls out to the shepherds in a distant
part of the plain below to send up one of their
fattest sheep. According to the abbot, the sum
mits of Cithaeron have several modern appellations.
Elatia. is the name of the two great peaks above
1 'H.yovp£i'og,

XVII. J ATTICA. 373
Plataea, so called from the fir-trees which cover all
but the highest points. A summit between them
and the Kaza derveni, or road across the moun
tain from Ghyftokastro to Kriakuki, is named
Osna : Kurteza is that between the latter and the
convent, and another towards Tarimari is called
Pastra. The plain below the monastery is the eastern
extremity of a valley extending four or five miles
westward towards Vilia, which village is situated
in another valley separated by rugged heights
from Ghermano, a small port on the Corinthiac
Gulf, and distant two hours from Vilia. At about
two miles to the south of the monastery, in the
valley, are the ruins named Myupoli ", which I
formerly visited. The remains are those of a very
small town, which had a citadel or interior inclo
sure at one angle. The masonry is for the most
part regular, and is extant in many places two or
three courses above the ground.
The ruins at Ghyftokastro, which I also visited
at that time, are about an hour to the westward of
Myupoli, at the entrance of the pass leading to
Kriakuki and Thebes, on the summit of a steep
and lofty rock between two torrents, one of which
has a distant origin in Mount Cithceron, the other
rises at the foot of the hill on the road side, in a
copious fountain called Petrogheraki. The entire
circuit of the fortress still exists, flanked by square
or oblong towers of masonry, and is preserved in
some places as high as the battlements. The walls
1 MvoviroXtg.

374 ATTICA. [chap.
consist for the most part of polygonal masonry,
though some parts, particularly the towers, appear
to be more modern. The torrent of Ghyftokastro,
increased by the fountain of Petrogheraki, and
united to the waters which rise near St. Meletius
and Myupoli, form a branch of the stream now
called Saranda-potamo, and anciently Cephissus,
which joins the sea near Eleusis. Another branch
flows from Vilia, and a third from Kundura.
The road from St. Meletius to Megara, as well as
that from Thebes, by Ghyftokastro to the same place,
passes a little to the right of Myupoli, then crosses a
steep root of Mount Karydhi, and enters the valley
of Kundura, a town of four hundred families, chiefly
Albanian, distant four or five miles from St, Mele
tius, and the same from Eleusis. The vale of
Kundura is separated from the plain of Eleusis by
the root of Mount Cithaeron, on which St. Mele
tius stands, and which follows the western side of
the plain and bay of Eleusis until it unites with
Mount Kandili. The Cephissus passes through this
ridge by narrow ravines into the plain. The com
munication from Kundura into the plain of Megara
is by a remarkable chasm midway between the two
towns, and separating the western termination of
Mount Kandili from the adjacent heights of Ka
rydhi. This and all the other important defiles of
the Megaris are under the guardianship of six
towns or villages of this district, hence called the
Derveno-khoria, and which, in consideration of the
expences of their charge, are exempted from lodg
ing strangers as well as from all other impositions,
except 110 paras a head for kharatj. These places

XVII. J ATTICA. 375
are Vilia, Kundura, Megara, Mazi, Bissia, and
Perakhora \ They maintain thirty or forty soldiers
at their own expence ; but, being all armed, can
turn out, to the number of three or four hundred,
which they often do when a Turk of high rank
passes through the derveni. The Dervent Aga. is
a Turk, residing at Corinth, but having a deputy
in constant attendance at the derveni house, near
the monastery of Kyparissi, on the northern side
of Mount Makryplai, or Geraneia : it is necessary
that he should read Turkish, as he has to inspect
the Buyurdi of the Pasha, without which no per
son is allowed to pass out of the Morea to the
northward. On referring to a verse of Sophocles, cited
by Strabo 2 ; and to Pausanias, who describes
the Eleutheris as situated between Eleusis and
Mount Cithaeron 3, there can scarcely be any doubt
that Myupoli and Ghyfto-kastro are the ancient
Eleutherae and CEnoe, for the plain which reaches
from Ghyfto-kastro to Myupoli is the only con
siderable valley between Plataea and Megara, and
the two ruins on its borders exactly illustrate the
word avyyopTa of the poet. There may be some
question, however, which of these ruins was Eleu
therae, and which CEnoe.
In behalf of the opinion that Ghyfto-kastro was
Eleutherae, it may be said that this city was form-
1 BijXia, KovvTOvpa, NLkyapa, Mo'fij, M.irr)aaia, Ilfpaxwpa.
2  Oivd?j£
Siyxopra vaiEiv mSia ralg 'EXEi/0£pat£, Ap. Strabon, p. 375.
3 Pausan. Attic, c. 38.

376 ATTICA. [chap.
erly an independent member of the Boeotian com
munity, which voluntarily joined the Athenians,
but never became an Attic demus, consequently
that there is little probability that CEnoe, which
was always an Attic demus, should have been
situated between Eleutherae and the Plataeis,
which would be the case if Myupoli were Eleu
therae. On examining, however, the ruins called
Ghyfto-kastro, its position and dimensions evidently
show that it was a fortress, not a town, being
only seven or eight hundred yards in circum
ference, and standing upon a strong height at the
entrance of the principal pass of Mount Cithae
ron, whereas Myupoli has every appearance of
having been a town with an acropolis placed as
usual on the edge of a valley, and commanding
only the pass which led from the Eleutheris into
the plain of Thria, or Eleusis. The town appears,
indeed, to have been of small dimensions, but its
state of ruin will hardly admit of our forming a
decisive opinion on this subject, while Ghyfto
kastro is so well preserved as to leave no doubt
concerning the object for which it was intended.
The importance of CEnoe as a military post, as
well as its vicinity to Hysiae, is shown by Herodotus
in describing the unsuccessful invasion of Attica
by Cleomenes, in the year B. C. 507, when he
marched from the Isthmus to Eleusis, while the
Boeotians, in concert with him, took CEnoe and
Hysiae, the frontier demi of Attica, towards Bceo
tia '. And Thucydides twice mentions CEnoe in
a manner to support the opinion that it was
Ghyftokastro ; at the commencement of the Pelo-
1 Herodot. 1. 5, c. 74.

XVII. J ATTICA. 377
ponnesian war, when its siege delayed the first
invasion of Attica by Archidamus1 ; and again, in
the twenty-first year of the war, when it was be
sieged by the Corinthians and Boeotians, and be
trayed to them by a stratagem of Aristarchus, one
of the oligarchical party at Athens 2. On both occa
sions the historian describes CEnoe as a fortress of
the Athenians on the confines of Bceotia. It is suffi
cient to observe the situation of Ghyfto-kastro, to
be assured that no other position in this vicinity
could be equally important to the Athenians. It
secured the dependence or alliance of Eleutherae
and Plataea, formed an outer gate of defence to this
entrance into Attica, and if an enemy penetrated
into the plain of Eleutherae from the Parasopia by
St. Meletius, it placed him between two fortresses ;
in short, it was the necessary completion of the
system of defence of the Attic frontier towards
Bceotia, of which Eleusis, Harma, Phyle, Panac-
tum, and Decelia, were the other fortified points.
Pausanias, therefore, in describing the Plataeis as
bordering on the district of Eleutherae, without
noticing CEnoe, though it lay between them, seems,
as usual with him, to have had the ancient history
and condition of Eleutherae chiefly in view, and to
have neglected the mention of CEnoe, as being
merely a fortress, perhaps already in ruins, or as
being one of the demi of Attica, of all which he has
treated very briefly. When the ridge of Cithaeron
became the boundary between Attica and Bceotia,
Hysiae, being on the northern side of the moun-

1 Thucyd. 1.2, c. 18.
2 Thucyd. 1. 8, c. 98. See also Xenoph. Hellen. 1. 1, c. 7.

378 ATTICA. [chap.
tain, was ascribed to Bceotia, while CEnoe con
tinued to be an Attic demus.
Placed in the line of communication between
Northern Greece and the Peloponnesus, so small a
state as Eleutherae was peculiarly exposed to the
ruinous effects of such a position, as well in the
greater contests in which Greece was engaged, as
in every quarrel in which either Attica or the Pelo
ponnesus was opposed to any part of Northern
Greece. The Roman wars having left Eleutherae
in a state of desolation, it became the resort of
robbers1, who have often in later times also found
this thoroughfare an excellent place for the ex
ercise of their profession. Pausanias, soon after
the time of the author who represents Eleutherae
in that condition, could ascertain only the posi
tion of the city by the ruins of the fortifications
and houses, which he describes as being situ
ated " a little above the plain towards Cithae
ron." In the plain there still remained a temple
of Bacchus, containing a copy of the original
statue of the god which had been transferred
to Athens. Near it was a cavern, in which Antiope
exposed her twin sons, and a fountain of water, in
which the infants were washed by a shepherd who
found them2.
1 . . . . 'lapyvoBoipog ette^o- rd irEpl rdg 'EXEvBEpdg xwpla
vevto yap virb Xyarwv irapd tov iravkprjpa bvra viro rue 7toXe-
YLiBaipuiva kg EXEvalva, olpai, poiv SwBevuiv, Bvo pbvovg oiKErag
(iaSi'(iiiv' 'kaTEvk te Kal to kiryyEro' Kal ravra tpidXag
tpavpa kv ra'iv x£Potv £^X£" ttevte XPvadg Kal Kvpflia tet-
kui rd iraiBla rd vEoyvd d rapa p£&' Eavrov e'xwv  Lu-
KaTEXEXoiiru dvE/caXaro /cat cian. Dialog. Mort. 27.
kavnp kirEpkptpETO rrjg ToXpyg, 2 Pausan. Attic, c. 38. Bac-
bg KiBaipuiva virEpfidXXwv /cat chus Eleutherius was held in

XVII. J ATTICA. 379
Jan. 2. — At 8.5, descending from the monastery
by a winding road to the right of the gardens, we
leave the Paleo-kastro of Myupoli a quarter of a
mile on the left at 8.40, and follow the main route
from Thebes to Megara by Kundura for some dis
tance, before we arrive at the turning to Lepsina, or
Eleusis, wrhich at 8.52 again brings Myupoli at a
quarter of a mile to our left. We now quit the
cultivated land and enter upon a rocky level
covered with small bushes, where the road is both
muddy and rough. At 9.22 enter a forest of pines.
The whole of the branch of Cithaeron, which ex
tends from near St. Meletius to Mount Kandili,
and to the plain of Megara, and which sepa
rates the vales of Myupoli and Kundura from
the plain of Lepsina, is covered with these trees.
After a halt of five minutes, we descend at 9.40
into the bed of a torrent, which has its origin
in the mountains around Vilia, and which at 9.50
joins the Sarandaporo, otherwise called Saranda-
foro, or Saranda-potami. The latter, which is the
main branch of the Eleusinian Cephissus, originates
great veneration at Athens : a It appears to have been the
temple was built to receive the opinion of the mythologists,
statue in the Lenasum, or sa- that there were three Dionysi ;
cred inclosure of Bacchus, in one of India, the same as the
Limnis, and there was another Lenaeus ; a second the son of
small vabg in the Academy, Jupiter and Semele, born at
for the temporary reception of Thebes ; and a third, son of
the statue when it was carried Jupiter and Ceres, born at
in procession in the Dionysiac Eleutherae. — Diodor. 1. 3, c.
festival from Athens to the 73.
Academy. — Pausan. Attic, c.
20, 29. Philostr. in Herod. 13

380 ATTICA. [CHAP.
in Mount Karydhi, and flowing by Kundura, from
thence enters a ravine between two high summits
on our right. At the junction of the two rivers we
fall into the road from Kundura to Athens. On
the summit of the mountain on the left, one mile
distant, may be perceived the lower part of a Hel
lenic round tower.
The road now leads along the side of the Sa-
randaforo, through a forest which seems as if it
would not long exist, as the greater part of the
trees are in a process of destruction for the purpose
of collecting their resin to make pitch. All the
bark having been stripped off towards the foot of
the tree, and a part of the wood cut away, a hollow
is made in the ground into which the turpentine
flows : the trees which lean a little are preferred,
the reservoir and incision being made on the upper
side. The process may be repeated for several
years before it kills the trees. At 10.42 a chapel
and well are on the right-hand side of the road:
at 10.51 are marks of chariot wheels in the rocks.
At 11 we arrive at the junction of the Sarandaporo
with the branch of the Cephissus from Ghyfto
kastro, which receives the collected waters of the
valley of Myupoli a little to the east of the latter
ruin. The bank of this stream above its junction with
the Sarandaporo is steep and high, and upon it
there are some remains of ancient walls and
towers, and on the right side of the road the foun
dations of another tower. We halt here till 11.30.
The wood continues until the ravine gradually
opens into the Thriasian or Eleusinian plain, where

XVII. J ATTICA. 381
at 1 1.42" the road to Lepsina branches off to the
right, and on each of the summits, bordering the
opening of the valley, the ruins of a Hellenic
tower may be seen. These numerous remains of
ancient works show how anxiously the Athenians
fortified this important entrance into their plains,
which may be considered as the division between
the north-eastern extremity of the Oneia and the
range of Cithaeron and Parnes. This perhaps
was the particular pass of Mount Cithaeron, in
which, in the year b.c. 200, Philocles, an officer
of Philip son of Demetrius, stationed himself on
arriving from Eubcea, while his troops plundered
the Eleusinian plain, and where he was joined by
the king himself, coming from Achaia. They
then proceeded to attack Eleusis, the Peiraeeus,
and Athens, but having been unsuccessful in every
attempt, Philip then destroyed every thing in the
unprotected demi which had escaped his former
invasion, leaving not a temple or building unin
jured, and ceasing only from the work of destruc
tion when there remained no longer any materials
to gratify his vengeance \
The road now enters the northern angle of the
plain of Thria, and at 11.48 crosses the dry bed
of the Sarandaporo, or Cephissus, which joins the
sea a little on the eastern side of Eleusis : all the
northern and western part of the plain is stony,
barren, and higher than the maritime and cul
tivated level, which does not extend very far to
the northward of Lepsina. As we descend into
1 Liv. 1. 31, c. 26.

382 ATTICA. [chap.
the lower plain, this village remains a mile and
a half on the right at 12.28. Here we cross the
foundations of what I take to have been one of the
reservoirs of the ancient aqueduct of Eleusis, some
ruined arches of which are seen to the right, near
the entrance of Lepsina from Athens. Our road
crosses the plain of Thria diagonally in the direc
tion of the mills at Rheiti, leaving Lepsina about
3 miles on the right : at 12.40 we halt at a well
near the foundations of a small temple, or other
public building. The kalyria of Khassia is half a
mile on the left, 2 miles beyond which a road be
gins to mount the lowest steep of Parnes, towards
Khassia. The greatest length of the Thriasian
plain, about nine miles, is from the angle of the
Eleusinian gulf, westward of Lepsina, to a bay
in the plain to the left of our road, where are the
lowest hills which unite the range of _Egaleos
with that of Parnes, and where the Athenians had
fortified that pass into the plain of Acharnae with
a rampart or breastwork, which still remains.
The sepulchre of Strato, son of Isidotus, on the
northern side of the Sacred Way, is 150 yards on
the right of our road, at 13 minutes beyond the
well above-mentioned ; 5 minutes farther our road
unites with that from Eleusis to Athens. The monu
ment of Strato seems not to have been a pvramid,
but a cubical mass of earth cased with marble, on
some of the blocks of which mouldings of archi
tecture are still to be seen. It was probablv sur
mounted by a stele. From hence to Eleusis
the Sacred Way was a causeway raised above the
plain, which is low and marshy in this part. Its

XVII. J ATTICA. 383
utility on the great road from Athens to the
Morea has caused it to receive frequent repairs,
but these, since the decline of Greece, having been
of the rudest kind, the causeway now preserves
little resemblance to the massy and finished works
of the ancients. Many vestiges, however, of the
original Itpd oSoc may still be distinguished. In
the bay of Eleusis, and the marshy part of the
plain, immense numbers of wild ducks are now
congregated. Quitting the junction of the road
at 1.43, I pass at 1.57 the first mill of the Rheiti,
and at 2.2 the second. The water which turns these
mills is produced from very copious saline springs
at the foot of the mountain, which are not suffered
to take their natural course into the sea as they
did anciently, but are formed into a large pond or
mill-head by means of a stone dam which extends
from one mill to the other. At this pass the
Sacred Way was cut in the rock ; it is first visible
between the two mills, and is then traced along
the foot of the rocks above the salt ponds, whereas
the modern road follows the sea shore. Having
passed the salt ponds, the Sacred Way descends
upon a modern paved road, which it follows along
the sea-side, as far as the opening of the valley of
Dhafhi, where that valley ends in the shore of the
Eleusinian bay, and where both the modern cause
way and the traces of the ancient road terminate.
We arrive at the beginning of the paved road
at 2.8, and at the end at 2.12. Here on the edge
of the beach lies part of the body of a seal, thrown
up by the sea. The cultivable ground at this ex-

384 ATTICA. [chap.
tremity of the valley of Dhafni is prolonged in a
narrow stripe along the shore of the bay, at the
foot of Mount Corydallus, as far as the Metokhi
of Skarmanga. We now ascend the valley of
Dhafni, the pass narrowing gradually until it
arrives, at 2.27, at some niches in the rocks on
the left of the road, below which are the founda
tions of the peribolus of a temple, which it is
evident from ancient testimony was that of Venus
on the Sacred Way. Just opposite to the niches
are some traces of the road, and the ruins of stone
walls which supported both sides of it for a con
siderable distance. The remains of the peribolus,
which are between the road and the niches, are
24 yards long and 12 wide; the foundations ofthe
walls are 5 feet thick, and constructed of great
rude masses of stone, exactly answering to the
ap-yot XlOoi which Pausanias here describes1. To
the westward of this spot are the foundations of a
square tower of similar construction. Under two
of the niches 1 distinguish the words <J>/Xp 'Aippoon-rj,
which not only prove this to be the site of the
temple of Venus, but also that it was the Philaeum
mentioned by Plutarch, and by a writer cited by
Athenaeus2, though the latter authority has not
correctly described it as being atThria. The temple
was probably of ancient date, and was repaired
perhaps by Demetrius Poliorcetes, when he here
1 pErd Be tovto 'AippoBiryg 2 Plutarch, in Demetr. —
vabg kan Kal wpb avrov TElxog Dionysius Tryphonis, ap.
apywv XiBoiv Bkag a^iov. — Pau- Athen. 1. 6, c. 16,
san. Attic, c. 37.

XVII. J ATTICA. 385
instituted divine honours to his wife Phile, with
the surname of Venus1.
At 2.3, leaving the temple of Venus, I proceed
along the left bank of a torrent flowing to the Bay
of Eleusis, and observe the traces of the Sacred
Way on the opposite bank, in some places cut in
the rocks, but, for the most part, a causeway sup
ported on the side of the rema by a wall of rough
stones. At 3.49 arrive at the Monastery of Dhafni :
there can be little doubt that this building occu
pies the site, and consists in great part of the re
mains of the temple of Apollo on Mount Poecilum,
which was probably converted into a church on the
establishment of Christianity at Athens. The mo
dern name /Aafyvri seems connected with the worship
of Apollo, and may have been derived from a grove
of sacred bay, which had survived that worship. But
at present no bay trees remain here. Although
Dhafni is despoiled of the finest of those remains
which formerly made it interesting, the outer inclo
sure of the monastery, and the church itself, are still
made up almost entirely of Hellenic materials; and
there are several sarcophagi remaining, the most
remarkable of which stands with the bottom up
wards in the portico before the cells of the monks :
it is of white marble, large and massy. These
sepulchral monuments were probably collected
from the Sacred Way, the sides of which were a
continued cemetery from Athens to Eleusis. The
dome of the church at Dhafni is now supported by
1 Doves of white marble and had been placed as dedications
terra cotta have been found to Venus.
under the niches, where they
VOL. II. C C

386 ATTICA. [chap.
two cross beams of wood, and shows several large
cracks caused by the operation of taking away
three Ionic columns, which, on my first visit
to Attica, were in their original places, enve
loped in the wall of the monastery. A high square
tower with a little dome at the top, like those in
Syria, appears to have been erected in the time of
the Franks.
One of the greatest objections to the removal of
ancient remains from Greece to England, or other
countries, is, that in consequence of the negligence
of those wTho remove or collect them, it is not alwavs
known from whence they came, so that monuments
serving to illustrate ancient history on the spot,
often become useless for that purpose. Nor is this
remark confined to inscriptions, although it is un
doubtedly most applicable to them, since, in a
great majority of instances, Grecian works of art,
of every kind, had some peculiar reference to local
history and mythology. It has often happened
moreover, that while by the separation of the mo
nument from the place, both have lost a portion of
their interest, the former, either from its want of
merit or its state of preservation, has been of little
utility to modern art in the place where it has
been deposited. The evil is by no means of recent
occurrence, for every collection in Europe contains
remains of antiquity, which have become inexpli
cable by our ignorance of their origin.
The monasterv stands at the highest and nar
rowest part ofthe Pass : beyond it the road is level
for a short distance, and then gradually widens until,
at the end of 12 minutes from the monastery in pass-

XVII.] ATTICA. 387
ing between a conical hill on the left, and the slope
of Mount Corydallus on the right, Athens and its
plain opens to view. The prospect from this point,
although not so extensive as that from the fortress
of Phyle on the road from Thebes, is more in
teresting from the greater proximity of the city,
and of all the more remarkable objects. On former
occasions I have seen it only in the midst of sum
mer, but it is more beautiful in the present season,
the larger proportion of the trees of Attica being
evergreens, such as the pine, the prinus, and the
olive, together with a variety of shrubs, and the
fields and pastures, which have recovered a portion
of their verdure, affording a peculiarly agreeable
contrast to the rocky mountains. In summer the
scene displays an arid monotony, relieved only by
the pale green of the olive; and a vapour rises
so rapidly from the earth, that there is a constant
haze over the distant objects, which are always more
distinctly seen in a fine winter's day. In enter
ing Attica, after a journey in Bceotia, the causes
are forcibly apparent of that atmospheric differ
ence between the two provinces, which gave rise
to the Athenian sarcasm adopted by the Latins, on
the density of Boeotian air and intellect. Three-
fourths of the valleys of Bceotia are so entirely
encased by mountains, that even the running waters
are discharged into the sea by subterraneous chan
nels, whence lakes and marshes abound, and the
vapours arising from them, detained by the sur
rounding mountains, are slowly dissipated ; while
the Attic peninsula, labouring under a deficiency
of water, and ventilated, often to excess, from the
cc2

388 MEGARIS. [CHAP.
Corinthiac, Saronic and iEgean seas, enjoys with
these inconveniences, and in consequence of them,
a purer air and serener sky than Bceotia. This phy
sical difference may possibly have had someinfluence
on the moral cause to which the low station of Thebes
among the states of Greece was justly attributed by
Ephorus1, and which ought to be a lesson to all
governments on the importance of encouraging arts
and literature. But the proverbial contempt of
Boeotian intellect was carried far beyond the bounds
of truth and justice, as a long catalogue of heroes,
statesmen, poets, sculptors, philosophers and en
gineers might be adduced to demonstrate.
Having descended into the plain, we pass at the
end of thirty-eight minutes from Dhafni, by the
chapel of St. George at the entrance of the olive
wood, the road through which is now muddy and
cut up by the torrents. At 4.30 pass by the pyrgos
and tjiftlik of Hadji Aly, and enter Athens at the
Mora Kapesi, or nop™ ttjc Mopac, at 4.15.
In order to complete that comparative view of
the ancient and modern geography of Greece which
has been the principal object of the present work,
as well as of two others 2, I shall here subjoin some
remarks on the topography of the Megaris, which
district I visited in a former journey.
Of the great isthmus which extends from the
1 Ephor. ap. Strabon. p. 401. and Travels in the Morea.
See p. 220 of this volume. The present observations may
2 Namely, On the Demi of be considered as a sequel to
Attica, pubbshed in the first the 29th chapter of the latter
volume of the Transactions of work, which relates to the to-
the Royal Society of Literature, pography of the Corinthia.

XVII. J MEGARIS. 389
foot of Mount Cithaeron to the Acro-Corinthus, and
which connects Northern Greece with the Pelo
ponnesus, about one fourth, including the narrowest
part or Isthmus properly so called, belonged to the
Corinthia, the remainder, which was included within
a sea coast of about thirty miles on either gulf,
with a breadth varying from twenty miles to thirty,
formed the Megaris. Like the Corinthia, it was
too small to have had much influence on the general
politics of Greece, or even to preserve its own
independence ; and by its position it was not less
exposed than that territory to the effects of the
frequent contests between the states of Greece.
Being very mountainous, barren, and incapable
of supporting a large population, it sent forth
in the times of its prosperity colonies to the
Euxine, Propontis and Sicily, and from the same
cause, under different circumstances, experienced
the greatest distress, when the Athenians, justly
incensed against the Megarenses for having joined
the Corinthians, and massacred the Athenian gar
rison at the beginning of the Peloponnesian war,
excluded them from the use of the Attic ports and
markets \ The redeeming attribute ofthe Megaric
territory was its excellent position for the pursuit
of commerce both by land and sea ; and it was un
doubtedly to this advantage that Megara owed an
opulence and splendour, which were quite dispro-
portioned to its natural resources. Like iEgina, and
many other once-flourishing republics, its decline is
to be dated from that increase of power in the leading
1 Thucyd. 1. 1. c. 67, 114, 139.— Aristoph. Acharn. v. 534.
729, &c.

390 MEGARIS. [CHAP.
states, which destroyed the independence of those
of second rank. Its commercial advantages, how
ever, still maintained it in a respectable condition,
as long as Greece was wealthy, and densely in
habited, but when it became poor and depopulated,
and still more when the Roman government was
no longer able to protect its distant subjects,
insecurity was the only effect of the peculiari
ties of the situation of Megara, and has continued
to be its ordinary condition during the long ages
of the debasement of Greece. An inscription
copied by Chandler at Megara, shows that its
towers were repaired in the end of the fifth century,
by one Count Diogenes, an officer of the emperor
Anastasius 1. But in later ages, the Byzantine
government was incapable of affording any pro
tection to these coasts from the pirates or cruizers
of Europe, and the Turkish navy has been so un
equal to the task, that the inhabitants of Megara
have more than once been obliged to abandon the
town, and retire to the villages of the Oneia.
In proceeding to trace the ancient geography of
the Megaris I shall, as usual, chiefly follow Pau
sanias2. The places mentioned by him between
1 Chandler, Travels in Greece, pieces, with 200 feet of marble,
c. 43. Insc. Ant. 130. The on the construction of a bath.
same Diogenes gained great 2 Pausan. Attic, c. 39. In
credit by wresting Claudiopolis the order of his description,
from the rebellious Isaurians, Pausanias probably pursued
and restoring it to the emperor, the course of his own travels
At Megara he expended, ac- from Athens into the Pelo-
cording to the inscription, 100 ponnesus. That his work is
pieces of gold (xpvaivovg) on arranged in conformity with the
the towers, and bestowed 150 general direction of his route

XVII. J MEGARIS. 391
Eleusis and Megara are, 1. The well called 'dvOiov
or dvOivov, ' the flowery ;' this answers to a spring
on the road side, in a branch of the Eleusinian
plain near the head of a small curve of the coast,
which forms the north-western angle of the bay of
Eleusis. 2. A little beyond the well, stood the
Temple of Meganeira, and the monuments of the
Argives who were slain at Thebes in the war be
tween Creon and Adrastus, and whose bodies were
said to have been rescued by Theseus, and here
interred by him. 3. The sepulchre of Alope, and
not farfrom it, 4. The palaestra of her father Cercyon,
by whom she was killed. No remains of these monu
ments have yet been discovered. Pausanias has not
exactly stated the boundary between the Eleusinia
and Megaris ; but we can. hardly doubt that it was
Mount Cerata, now Kandili, which interrupts the
through Greece, is strongly in- Athens through the Megaris to
dicated by a remark in his Corinth ; from thence by Si-
seventh book, or Achaica, where cyon and Phlius to Argos ;
having occasion to notice the round the Argolic peninsula
Odeium of Herodes at Athens, again to Argos ; from Argos to
he states that it was not built Sparta ; round the eastern La-
when he wrote his first book, or conic peninsula again to Sparta;
Attica. In some ofthe details of round the western Laconic pe-
each province, on the contrary, ninsula into Messenia, from
it is possible that the order of Messenia into the Eleia and
the excursions may have given Achaia, and lastly the tour of
way to the general plan of Arcadia, requiring various de-
the work. But the irEpioSog viations. After having returned
HavaaviaKr), or Pausaniac tour to Athens, the traveller might
of Greece, might still be recom- follow Pausanias to Eleutherae,
mended, as forming a very con- to Plataea and Thebes ; and
venient plan of travels through from thence make the tours of
this country : namely, from Bceotia and Phocis.
13

392 MEGARIS. [CHAP.
level coast for a considerable distance, and the pro
jection of which occurs at about a third of the dis
tance from Eleusis to Megara. It would seem from
Philochorus, cited by Strabo, that there was a
temple of Apollo Pythius on this part of the coast,
which Philochorus considered the boundary of the
Megaris a ; it is not noticed by Pausanias.
Megara retains little of antiquity but the name,
which is still rd Mlyapa, and seems originally to
have been derived from certain pkyapa, or sanctuaries
of Ceres, though the later Megarenses preferred, as
usual, a heroic origin, and derived their name from
Megareus, son of Neptune, a native of Onchestus.
Pausanias remarks, that the vengeance of the Gods
for the murder of the Athenian herald Anthemo-
critus, had never been thoroughly appeased, and
that Megara had been an exception to the cities of
Greece which had profited by the munificence of
Hadrian 2. Nevertheless, there still existed public
edifices, and monuments of art sufficient to prove
the former existence of that opulence, which has
1 t&v U.avBwviBuiv TEaadpuiv inscription found at Megara
bvTwv, Alykoig te (cat Avkov Kal shows, however, that here as well
IldXXavroc; /cat TETaprov Ni<7oi/' as at Athens, a new tribe was
/cat rijg 'ArTiKijg dg rkrrapa pipn called Adrianis, in honour of
BiaipEBslayg, b Niaog tt)v Msya- the emperor. From another
piBa Xcix<" Kat Kriaai rr)v Nt- inscription, we learn that Sa-
aaiav. QiXbxopog pkv oiiv dirb bina was worshipped here under
tov 'ladpov pkxpi tov HvBiov the title of vkaAripr/Trip. Boeck.
BiifKEiv avrov Qyai rr)v dpxrjv. Insc. Graec. Vol. I. p. 566.
"AvBpoiv Sk pkxpi 'EXEvaXvog Kal And Pausanias himself de-
tov Qpiaalov tteBiov. — Strabo, scribes a temple of Apollo of
p. 392. white marble, built by Hadrian.
2 Pausan. Attic, c. 36. An

XVII. J MEGARIS. 393
been variously attested in ancient history. The
town stood on a low hill with a double summit,
situated a mile and a half from the shore of the
Saronic gulf, near the southern extremity of a plain
six or seven miles in length as well as breadth, of
no great fertility, and which is bounded on every
side, except towards the sea, by the mountains
Oneia. The following is a brief abstract of the de
scription of the city by Pausanias, in which I shall
exactly follow the order of his narrative, as it is
among the clearest and most methodical which he
has given of the more celebrated cities of Greece,
and may lead to some interesting discoveries,
when circumstances shall allow the site to be pro
perly explored \ The fountain, which took its
name from the Nymphs Sithnides, was adorned by
Theagenes, tyrant of Megara, with a building re
markable for its magnitude and numerous columns.
Near it stood an ancient temple, containing a brazen
statue of Diana Soteira by Strongylion 2, statues
of the twelve gods, the reputed works of Praxiteles,
and images 3 of the Roman emperors. In the
adjoining Olympieium, or inclosure of Jupiter
Olympius, stood a magnificent temple, containing
a statue of the God, the finishing of which was in
terrupted by the enmity of the Athenians in the
Peloponnesian war : hence the face of the God was
of ivory and gold, and the remaining parts of clay

1 Pausan. Attic, c. 40, et seq. tist, but he was chiefly cele-
2 Three of the Muses in the brated for his horses and oxen.
Grove of the Muses at Mount Paus. Boeot. c. 30.
Helicon were made by this ar- 3 ei/coVee.

394 MEGARIS. [CHAP.
and plaster. It was the joint work of Phidias and
of Theocosmus of Megara. On the head of Jupiter
were represented the Hours and Fates. In the
back part of the temple were some half-wrought
pieces of wood, prepared by Theocosmus for the
reception of the ivory and gold with which the
remaining parts of the statue were to have been
adorned 1. The temple contained also the brazen
beak of a galley taken, as the Megarenses asserted,
from the Athenians in the contest for the possession
of Salamis.
Anciently, each summit of the hill of Megara
was occupied by a citadel ; one was named Caria,
from Car, son of Phoroneus son of Inachus, the
other Alcathoe, from Alcathous son of Pelops.
Having ascended from the Olympium into Caria,
there occurred a temple of Bacchus Nyctelius ;
this citadel contained also a sanctuary of Venus
Apostrophia, an oracle of Night, a roofless temple of
Jupiter Conius, statues of iEsculapius and Hygieia
by Bryaxis, and the ME-yapov, or temple of Ceres,
said to have been founded by Car during his reign.
Below the citadel Caria to the northward, near the
Olympium, was the tomb of Alcmene, from whence
Pausanias was conducted by his Megarean guide
to Rhus 2, a place so called because the waters
1 oiriaBE Bk tov vaov KE'trai phantine statues of the Greeks.
st/Xa ripiEpya' ravra ejueXXev 6 On this subject see the work of
QEOKoafiog kXktyavTi /cat xPvaV M. Quatremere, entitled Jupiter
Koapr)aag rb dyaXpa EKTEXkaEiv Olympien.
tov Aibg. — c. 40. 2 "EvtevBev b t&v kirix^pliov
This remarkable passage rip'iv E^yjjnje hyEiro kg x^ptov
throws great light on the mode 'Poiiv. — c. 41.
of constructing the chrysele-

XVII. J MEGARIS. 395
from the neighbouring mountain ¦ were collected
in this place, until Theagenes having turned off
the water, erected an altar here to Achelous. Not
far from thence was the monument of Hyllus, son
of Hercules, and near the latter a temple of Isis,
with another of Apollo Agraeus and Diana Agrotera,
which is said to have been dedicated by Alcathous
when he had slain the Cithaeronian lion. On de
scending from this temple occurred the heroum of
Pandion, and near it the tomb of Hippolyte,
fashioned like an Amazonian shield, then that of
Tereus, who married Procne, daughter of Pandion,
and who is asserted by the Megarenses to have
ruled over the country about Pagae.
On the right hand of the ascent to Alcathoe was
the sepulchre of Megareus, near which was the
hearth of the Prodomeis 2, or place where Alca
thous sacrificed to the deities who assisted him
in raising the walls of Megara ; here was the
stone on which Apollo laid his lyre 3 on that oc
casion, and which thenceforth uttered when struck
1 It was probably the same Nicander to have been called
water which supplied the foun- the Pammonides, or Pam-
tain of the Sithnides. The monia.
nearest heights appear from
Ot pkv virb 'SiKvpiavog bpri Happwvia t a'iirrj.
Nicand. Theriac. v. 214.
TEt'xta te irpoXiirovTEg iiirkp Ha/xfjiuiviSas bxBag
'EaavpEvoi MEyapijEC kvEvvaaaavro Sbpoiai.
Id. in Thebaic, ap. Schol. in Theriac. v. 214.
2 iaria Be&v ttpoSopkwv. — c. 42. 3 KiBdpa.

396 MEGARIS. [CHAP.
a musical sound ], similar to that which Pausanias
heard at Thebes in Egypt from a half statue
generally called the statue of Memnon, but which
was said by the natives to be that of Pha-
menoph, though some ascribed it to Sesostris 2.
In Alcathoe was a council-house 3, formerly the
sepulchre of Timalcus, and on the summit of
the same citadel stood a temple of Minerva,
1 $oT/3e avai,, aiirbg fikv kiripyioaag iroXiv aKprfv
'AXKaOoar LTeXottoc; iraiBl xaPLZbfi£vog. Theogn. v. 771.
Regia turris erat vocalibus addita minis.
In quibus auratam proles Letoia fertur
Deposuisse lyram : saxo sonus ejus inhassit.
Ovid. Metam. 1. 8, v. 14.
2 Juvenal agrees with Pau- person for whom it was in-
sanias, both as to the con- tended.
dition of the statue and the
Dimidio magicae resonant ubi Memnone chordae,
Atque vetus Thebe centum jacet ohruta portis.
Juvenal. Satyr. 15. v. 5.
Numerous inscriptions, still by Cambyses. According to
legible on the leg of the late discoveries, the Memnon
statue itself, attribute it to in question reigned at Thebes,
Memnon, and two of them two centuries before the great
add that the Egyptians called conqueror of Asia, known to
him Phamenoph, or Amenoph. the Greeks by the name of Se-
Since the time of Juvenal and sostris : and nothing can better
Pausanias, the upper part of the show the ignorance of the The-
statue which had originally been baic Greeks than their having
monolithal, like another near it, confounded this person with the
has been reconstructed of seve- Memnon of Homer, who was a
ral pieces of stone, and in this Persian of Susa, and lived four
state it still remains. Pausanias or five centuries later.
asserts that it was overthrown 3 (iovXEvrr'iptov.

XVII. j MEGARIS. 397
containing a statue of the goddess, entirely gilded
except the face, hands, and feet, which were
of ivory. Here likewise were sanctuaries of
Minerva Niktj and Minerva Atavric, the latter so
called, in the opinion of Pausanias, because the
statue was dedicated by Ajax, son of Telamon.
The temple of Apollo was anciently of brick, but
had been rebuilt of white marble by Hadrian. It
contained three statues of Apollo made of ebony ;
those surnamed Pythius and Decatephorus were
in the ^Egyptian style : the Archagetes was in the
iEginetan manner. There was also a sanctuary of
Ceres Thesmophorus, in descending from which
occurred the sepulchre of Callipolis, son of Al-
cathous. On the way to the Prytaneium were the follow
ing monuments : the heroum of Ino surrounded
with a stone fence, within which was a plantation
of olives, — the heroa of Iphigeneia and of Adras-
tus, both of whom, according to the Megarenses,
died at Megara, and a temple of Diana, said
to have been founded by Agamemnon. In the
Prytaneium were the sepulchres of Menippus,
son of Megareus, and of Echepolis, son of Al-
cathous, and near the same building a stone
named Anaclethra, because here Ceres, when
searching for her daughter, sat down and called
her. The iEsymnium was a council-house, so
named from its founder ; it contained a monu
ment of the heroes of Megara. There were also
sepulchral monuments of the Megarenses who
had fallen in fighting against the Medes, and the
tombs of Pyrgo, wife of Alcathous, and of his

398 MEGARIS. [CHAP.
daughter Iphinoe, which were in the way from
the iEsymnium to the heroum of Alcathous : the
latter structure served in the time of Pausanias for
depositing writings. In the entrance to the Dio-
nysium, or sanctuary of Bacchus, was a tomb of
Astycrateia and Manto, daughters of Polyeidus,
son of Coeranus, who founded the sanctuary, and
placed in it a wooden statue of the god surnamed
Patrous, of which the face only was visible. Near
it was a Satyr of Parian marble, by Praxiteles,
and a Bacchus, surnamed Dasyllius. Near the
Dionysium was the temple of Venus. It contained
a very ancient statue in ivory of the goddess,
surnamed Praxis, and images of Persuasion 1, and
of Consolation 2, made by Praxiteles, and of Love 3,
of Allurement *, and of Desire 5, the works of
Scopas. Near the temple of Venus was that of
Fortune, containing a statue by Praxiteles, and
another temple in which were the Muses, and a
brazen Jupiter by Lysippus.
In the Agora stood the tomb of Coroebus, which
was inscribed wTith verses relating to the story of
Coroebus and Psamathe, and supported 6 statues
representing Coroebus killing the monster Poena :
Pausanias thought they were the most ancient
specimens of sculpture in stone which he had
seen in Greece. Near this sepulchre was that of
Orsippus, who gained a victory in running at
Olympia, and who, when military commander of
the Megarenses, enlarged the boundaries ofthe Me-
1 IlEie<i. — c. 43. ' "IfiEpog.
2 IIap>/yopoe. S Rbdog.
3 "Epuig. ° kiriByf.

ta EOTl Thl ramtii.

XV1I.J MEGARIS. 399
garis. In descending from the agora by the street
called Eutheia, the temple of Apollo Prostaterius
stood a little on the right; it contained, an Apollo of
great merit, a Diana, and a Latona, besides which
were Latona and her children, by Praxiteles. In the
ancient Gymnasium, near the gates called Nym-
phades, was a small pyramidal stone, named Apollo
Carinus1, and a temple of Lucina. On the descent to
the port of Megara, which in the time of Pausanias
still bore the appellation of Nisaea, there was a temple
of Diana Malophorus, the roof of which had fallen
in. The citadel of Nisasa still remained ; on the
sea side was the tomb of Lelex, who is said to
have been an Egyptian, the son of Neptune and
Libya, and to have reigned at Nisaea. Near
Nisaea, adds Pausanias, there was a small island 2,
where Minos of Crete was said to have sheltered
his fleet in his war with Nisus.
There remains nothing of ancient Megara above-
ground, save some fragments of the walls of the
three citadels, Caria, Alcathoe, and Nisaea, toge
ther with some vestiges of the Long Walls, and
some fragments of the buildings of the city, but
the place has been fertile in inscriptions 3 ; and if
the situations in which they were found had been
exactly noted they might have contributed not a
1 In the most ancient wor- which bore the name of a deity.
ship of the Greeks, pillars or 2 irapiiKEi vijaog ov jjiEydXr]. —
square pyramidal stones were c. 44.
worshipped under the name of 3 All the inscriptions of Me-
the gods. In the agora of gara are collected in the work
Pharas, in Achaia, were 30 of Boeckh Corp. Inscr. Gr. Vol.
quadrangular stones, each of 1, p. 553.

400 MEGARIS. [CHAP.
little to a knowledge of the ancient topography.
From one which is now at Oxford we learn that
it was deposited in the Olympium. Another
in honour of some gymnasiarchs was probably
in the Gymnasium. The modern town occu
pies only the hill of the two ancient citadels,
and extends not much beyond the western sum
mit : unlike the other towns of the continent of
Greece, the houses are built with flat roofs like
those of the Grecian islands. Alcathoe having
been the more important of the two citadels, was
probably the western, or that upon which the
modern village is chiefly situated ; and in that
case, the tower which crowns it occupies the site
of the temple of Minerva. The Olympium was
on the northern side of Caria : and the Agora
seems to have been towards the southern end of
the ancient site, as the street Eutheia led from
thence through the gate Nymphades into the
Longomural street, and to Nisaea. As nature has
probably resumed her sway in regard to the course
of the waters from the neighbouring mountains,
their natural receptacle, called Rhus, from which
Theagenes turned away the water in order to form
a fountain in a more convenient situation, might
be thus identified, and it would serve as an im
portant guide to the ancient topography.
The Long Walls which connected Megara with
its maritime fortress Nisaea, in the same manner
that the Piraeeus was connected with Athens, were
constructed by the Athenians in the year b. c. 455,
when in consequence of the naval power which
the victory of Salamis had given them, and the

XVII. J MEGARIS. 401
disgust conceived by the Megarenses against the
Corinthians, the Athenians obtained a paramount
influence at Megara, and placed garrisons in
Nisaea and Pagae. These, together with Nau
pactus, which city at the opening of the Pelopon
nesian war they occupied with the refugees from
Messenia, gave them stations at both the extre
mities of the Corinthian Sea, and consequently the
naval command of it1. The Megaric Long Walls
are noticed at this time by Aristophanes 2 ; they
were destroyed by the Megarenses themselves upon
recovering them out of the hands of the Athenians,
in the eighth year of the Peloponnesian war 3.
Seventy-four years afterwards they were restored
by Phocion 4. Strabo alludes to them as if they
still existed 5, but the silence of Pausanias seems
to show that they had fallen to ruin before his
time. The harbour of Nisaea was formed by the island
Minoa, which, from the description given by Thu
cydides of the operations of the Athenians against
Megara, in the fifth and eighth years of the Pelo
ponnesian war 6, seems not to have been the nearest
island opposite to Megara, which is too small, and
too distant from the shore, but the peninsula, a mile
farther to the east, at the entrance of the strait of Sa-
1 Thucyd. 1. 1, c. 103. 107. t&v MEyapwj' Skm okt& ara-
111. Biovg rijg iroXEOig Sikxov, oke-
ra MEyapt/ca aKkXy. — Xeo-ij' EKarkpwBEV avvairrbpevov
Lysist. v. 1172. irpbg ahrr/v. — Strabo, p. 391.
3 Thucyd. 1. 4, c. 109. 6 Thucyd. 1. 3, c. 51.— 1. 4,
4 Plutarch, in Phocion. c. 66.
'H Be Nttraia kanv kirivEiov
VOL. II. D d

402 MEGARIS. [CHAP.
lamis. Pausanias, in describing Minoa as an island,
adverted perhaps to its earlier condition rather than
to that which existed in his time ; for Strabo, near
two centuries before had applied to it the word dicpa,
or promontory1. The examples of the conversion
of islands into peninsulae are so numerous on the
coasts of Greece, that the present instance has
nothing surprising in it, especially as the strait
which separated Minoa from the main appears
from Thucydides to have been narrow at the en
trance from the sea, and to have terminated in a
marsh, over which there was a bridge or cause
way. In the fifth year of the war, the Athe
nians perceiving that Minoa, in which the Mega
renses had only a tower, would be a much better
station than Budorus and Salamis for observing
the Peloponnesian fleet, and for blockading Me
gara, Nicias seized two of the towers of the
walls of Nisaea, which had prevented his ships
from passing between them and the island of
Minoa, and then built a wall in the island, by
which he cut off " the communication between
Megara and Minoa by means of the bridge which
led into the island across the marsh2." He then
formed a fortress in the island and left a garrison
in it. If such was the situation of Minoa, it will
follow that the length of the Long Walls was not
8 stades, as the text of Thucydides gives it 3, but
1 Meto By rag —KEiptovlSag s fiaKpd "E'X'' • • • • "fjv Sk
irkrpag &Kpa irpbKEirai Mtrii/a araBimv pdXiara oktio dirb rijg
troiovaa rbv kv rij Nttrata Xifik- irb\Eiog kiri Tt)v N/'(rata>' rbv Xt-
va. — Strabo, p. 391. fikva airr&v. — Thucyd. 1. 4, c.
2 Sid -Evdyovg. — Thucyd. 66.
1.3. c. 51.

XVII. J MEGARIS. 403
18, as we find it in that of Strabo ; the peninsula
being not less than three miles from Megara.
In the eighth year of the war, the Athenians
still holding Minoa, bvij^he Peloponnesians hav
ing a garrison in Nisaea, the former in conjunction
with a body of troops from Plataea, and by the
assistance of a party in Megara, obtained posses
sion of the Long Walls, and built a cross wall
within them for protection against Megara. They
then prolonged the circumvallation of Nisaea to
the sea on either side, obtaining plentiful mate
rials from the suburb, and making its houses serve,
with the addition of battlements, for a part of the
fortification. The Peloponnesians in Nisaea being
thus deprived of their daily supplies, were obliged
to surrender, when the Athenians took posses
sion of Nisaea, and entirely separated it from
Megara, by breaking down a part of the Long
Walls. Brasidas, the Lacedaemonian, who was
then at the Isthmus preparing to march into
Thrace, on hearing of the first success of the
Athenians at the Long Walls, summoned the
Boeotians, who were already collected at Pla
taea for the relief of Megara, to meet him at
Tripodiscus, a Megaric town ] at the foot of Mount
Geraneia. The united forces amounted to 6000 ;
and the Athenians, who had received a large rein
forcement from Athens, were not much inferior in
number. Each party being more anxious to support
its adherents in Megara than to come to action,
nothing took place but a combat of cavalry in the
1 K&fiy. — Thucyd. 1. 4, c. 70.
d d 2

404 MEGARIS. [CHAP.
plain, in which the Athenians had some advantage.
At length Brasidas, having succeeded in obtain
ing admission into Megara, the oligarchy was re
established in the city, the Athenians still re
taining possession of Nisaea and Minoa. It was in
the ensuing winter that the Megarenses, having
been sufficiently strong to recover possession of
their Long Walls, entirely destroyed them.
From a part of the narrative of Thucydides, it
appears that there was a sanctuary of Mars, called
the Enyalium, not far from the gate by which the
Athenians first made their irruption into the Long
Walls, and which seems to have been a gate
opening from the northern Long Wall into the
suburb on that side.
We find by the terms of the truce agreed upon
between the Athenians and Lacedaemonians in the
spring of the ninth year, that towards the sea on the
north-eastern side of Nisaea, there was a monument
of Nisus, at a gate of Nisaea, and a Posidonium, or
sanctuary of Neptune, between it and the bridge
leading into Minoa. By the conditions of the
treaty, the line of demarcation between the Athe
nians in Minoa and Nisaea, on one side, and the
Megarenses and their allies, on the other, was the
road which led from that gate of Nisaea to the
Posidonium, and from thence a direct line to the
causeway \
Having finished the description of the city, Pau
sanias proceeds to notice the places situated in the
opEivjj, or mountainous part of the Megaris to the
northward of the plain, after which he describes
1 Thucyd. 1. 4, c. 118.

XVII. ] MEGARIS. 405
the road from Megara into the Corinthia. The
only places named by him in the Oreine are Pagae,
iEgosthena, and Erineia.
Although the historians and geographers have
left little doubt that JEgosthena was at Ghermano,
it is satisfactory to be able to confirm this fact by
means of an inscription found on the spot ; from a
copy of which, although very imperfect, I have been
able to decipher enough to show that it was a de
cree of the people of iEgosthena in favour of Apol-
lodorus, son of Alcimachus of Megara, granting
him the ordinary rights of proxenia, with the use
of the pastures of the district for his cattle, and
the privilege of a front seat at the public ceremo
nies '. The decree is to be recorded in the temple
1 'EirEiSr) ' AiroX(X6Shi)pog 'AXKipdxov MEyapEvg
(Eiivovg) k&v SiarkXEi rw Sapy t&v AlyoaBEvirav ....
 r^> Sdfitt) irpbi,EVOV EifiEV
avrbv /cat EKybvovg avroU .... Tag irbXiog AlyoaBEvirav
/cat klfiEv avry EKryaiv ydg Kal oiKiag (cat aXXa irdvra oaa /cat rots
aXXoig irpolfivoig' bpoiwg keXevei EipEV aiirS /cat Eirivopiav
avaypdipdvrw ol S 
kv rj» t£pj> tov M.EXdpiroSog' BiBoaBai Be Kal 
 t&v M.EXapiroBElo>v /cat /coXeTv avrov Etg irpoESpiav
KaBdirEp /cat Tovg ciXXowe irpo^kvovg.
The Doric dialect is ac- proof of which he quotes a lost
counted for by iEgosthena passage of Polybius. The in-
having been considered a town scription shows the correctness
of the Megaris. Stephanus of Stephanus. The Ethnic
remarks the difference of the Aiyoo-0£'v£toc, therefore, is erro-
form of the gentile in the neous in Athenaeus, who cites
names Megara and iEgosthena, some words of Polybius, show-
although both are neuters plu- ing that iEgosthena produced a
ral ; for while the ethnic of sweet wine, AlyoaBEVEia yXvKEi
Megara is Megareus, that of (o'ivui). — Athen. 1. 10, c. 11.
iEgosthena is AlyoaBEviryg, in

406 MEGARIS. [CHAP.
of Melampus, and mention is made of the Melam-
podeia, which we learn from Pausanias to have
been a festival celebrated every year at iEgos
thena1. The position of .iEgosthena thus ascertained,
illustrates two interesting passages in the Hellenics
of Xenophon. Between Ghermano and the vale
of Livadhostra, which stands on or near the site of
the ancient Creusis, a projection of the highest part
of Cithaeron terminates abruptly in the Corinthiac
or Alcyonic Gulf, and forms a natural separation
between the Megaris and the Boeotian district of
Thespiae, of which city Creusis was the port, leav
ing no passage along the shore except a path on
the mountain's side, which now serves for a road
from Livadhostra and Ai Vasili to Ghermano and
Vilia. Like the Scironian rocks, along which
there is a similar road from Megara to Crommyon,
this termination of Mount Cithaeron, as well as all
the adjoining part of the Alcyonic sea, is subject
to sudden gusts of wind, by which the passage of
such a cornice is sometimes rendered danarerous.
The Lacedaemonians under Cleombrotus were
here overtaken, on their march from Creusis to
iEgosthena, when retreating from Bceotia in the
winter of B.C. 379-378, bv one of these tempests.
Such was the force of the wind, that the shields of
the soldiers were wrested from their hands, and
many of the asses that carried the burthens were
1 'Ev AlyoaBkvotg Sk ~MeXdp- -u MEXa'^i^octt /cat dvd irdv
-oBog tov 'Af^ivBaovbg kanv irog ioprfiv dyovai. — Pausan.
ieoo> Kal avi)p oil fikyag kirEip- Attic, c. 44.
ynapkvog kv OT/'fXp- Kal dvovat

XVII. J MEGARIS. 407
blown over the precipices into the sea \ Seven
years afterwards the Lacedaemonians again re
treated by the same road after their memorable
defeat at Leuctra. Little trusting to the peace
which the Thebans had granted them, they
avoided crossing Mount Cithaeron by the ordinary
route in the face of their conquerors, and preferred
the risk of marching in the night by the narrow
and dangerous path at the back of the mountain.
The historian states that the Spartan commanders
concealed their intention by moving from the field
of battle near Leuctra in the evening, with the
avowed purpose of being ready to cross the Cithae
ron by the usual route in the morning at day
break ; but that, instead of pursuing it, they
turned off to Creusis, and proceeded from thence
to iEgosthena of the Megarice, where they met the
army of Archidamus coming to their support2.
Not less certain than the position of iEgosthena
is that of Pegae or Pagae, as it was called in the
Megaric dialect. From Thucydides and Plu
tarch we learn that it was the principal harbour
on the western coast of the Megaris ; and from
Strabo that it formed with Nisaea the narrowest
part of the Megaric Isthmus, the breadth of which
was 120 stades3. These data correspond exactly
with the port of Psatho, not far from the shore of
which are found the remains of an ancient fortress.
Near the road from Megara to Pagae there was a
rock (according to Pausanias) covered with marks
1 Xenoph. Hellen. 1. 5, c. 4. 111. Plutarch in Pericl.
2 Ibid. 1. 6. c. 4. Strabo, p. 334.
3 Thucyd. 1. 1, c. 103, 107,

408 MEGARIS. [CHAP.
which were supposed to have been made by the
arrows of an advanced body of Median cavalry,
when Mardonius, hearing of the arrival of the
Peloponnesians at the Isthmus on their way to
Plataea, made a movement from Attica to intercept
them \ Pausanias relates that they wandered to
the rock on the road to Pagae in the night ; that
under the impulse of a madness inspired by Diana,
they consumed their arrows by discharging them
at the rock, mistaking it for the enemy, and that
thus disarmed they were attacked in the morning
and put to death by the Megarenses. At Pagae
there was a brazen statue of Diana Soteira, erected
in memory of this event, and exactly resembling
another dedicated to the same deity at Megara.
Pagae contained also the heroic monument of
iEgialeus, who fell at Glisas in the second expedi
tion of the Argives against Thebes 2.
The third town of the Oreine, mentioned by
Pausanias, was Erineia, in which was a monu
ment of Autonoe, daughter of Cadmus3. As Vilia
and Kundura are the only inland positions in the
northern part of the Megaric isthmus having any
natural advantages, we may presume Erineia to
have occupied the one or other of those sites; and
as Strabo notices Isus, formerly a town of the
Megaris, as having been situated near Cithaeron4,
I am disposed to place Isus at Vilia, and Erineia
at Kundura. There can be no doubt, as before
1 Herodot. 1. 9, c. 14. MEyapt/cp ekeIBev diraKiapkvy
2 Pausan. Attic c. 40, 44. (ex Iso Bceotico sc.) Eyyuc
' Pausan. Attic, c. 44. tov KtBaip&vog. Strabo, p. 405.
i r)v yap b "laog TrbXig kv rrj

XVII. J MEGARIS. 409
remarked, that Kandili is the mountain which
the ancients named Kkpara, from the sharp rocks
which rise from its summit1 ; the ancient name of
Karydhi I am unable to discover, except that it
was the highest summit of the Oneia, as Strabo
defines those mountains, that is to say, as extend
ing from the rocks Scironides to Cithaeron and the
confines of Boeotia2. Other authors, however,
appear to have comprehended in the Oneia, not
only all the mountains as far as the Isthmus, but
even the ridge to the southward of it, which
stretches from Cenchreiae to Corinth, having ap
parently considered Geraneia only as the highest
summit ofthe Oneia3.
In a verse preserved by Strabo, which the Athe
nians were suspected by some of the ancient critics
of having ejected from the Iliad, for the sake of
interpolating another, which proved that Salamis
in the time of the Trojan war was a dependency
1 'Ev Sk rrj irapaXla ry /card rariTag bBov irpbg Tr)v 'Attiktiv.
2aXaplva mlaBai cvpfiaivEi ra Strabo, p. 380.
opia rijg M.EyapiKrjg Kal rijg 'At- "Eoti B' r) X^Pa T^v Mfya-
BiBog opy Svo a KaXovaiYLkpara. pkivv irapdXvirpog, KaBdirEp /cat
Strabo, p. 395. r) 'Attiki) Kal to irXkov aiirfjg
Ol MsyapElg . . . irapErd^avro eitexei rd KaXovpEva "OvEia
irpbg To'ig Xoipoig ro'ig Kkpaai bpy, pdxig Tig pyKvvopkvy pkv
KaXovpkvotg. Diodor. Sicul. dirb t&v 2KEipuivlSwv irETp&v kwl
1. 13, c. 65. rr)v Boiuiriav Kal tov KiBaip&va,
. . . . kv pEBopla rrjg Msya- SiEipyovaa Be rr)v Kara Niaaiav
plSog virkp TiHv KaXovpkvoiv K.E- OdXaaaav airo rrjg Kara E\pla-
paThiv. Plutarch, in Themist. aav [al. KpEouo-ayJ 'AXKvoviSog
2 . . . ra KaXovpEva "OvEia irpooayopEvopkvyg. Strabo, p.
bpy, BiarElvovra pkxpi Boiuirlag 393.
/cat Ktflaipwvoc drrb tuv S/cEtpw- 3 See Travels in the Morea,
viBuiv TTETp&v, Kal Tr\g irapd Vol. ill. p. 310.

410 MEGARIS. [CHAP.
of Athens, mention is made of iEgeirusa, Nisaea,
and Tripodi, in the Megaris, as part of the domi
nions of Ajax of Salamis1. Whether the latter
was the genuine version or not, it is at least evi
dent from Strabo, that iEgeirusa and Tripodi, like
Nisaea, still existed in his time. Of Polichne, the
fourth Megaric town named in the verses, we
have no other notice in ancient history.
Tripodiscus2 is shown by Thucydides, on the
occasion already mentioned, to have been at the
foot of Mount Geraneia, in a situation convenient
for forming a junction of troops who were assem
bling from Plataea in one direction, and the Isthmus
in the other, for the purpose of acting at Megara.
And accordingly, at the foot of Mount Geraneia,
in the road from Plataea to the Isthmus, four or
five miles to the north-west of Megara, I remarked
in my former journey, when passing by that route
1 Strabo, p. 394. The verses as we now have them are —
A'iag B' E/c SaXap'ivog dyEv BvoKalBEKa vijag
UrijaE S' dyoiv, "iv ' AByvaiiov laravTO ipdXayysg.
The Megarenses asserted that Homer wrote as follows :
Atas o" e/c HiaXaplvog ayEV vkag, ek te UoXix^VS
"E/c t Aiy£ipovaar\g, Nio-anjc te, TpiiroSwv te.
Some of the ancient critics gave ber of the names of places in
strong reasons against the au- Greece : Thucydides writes
thenticity of the Athenian read- TpiiroSiaKog ; Pausanias, Tpt-
ing ; on the other hand, it iroSiaKoi, Strabo, TpnroSioKiov,
seems improbable that the Herodian (ap. Stephan. in Tpt-
number of the ships should Tro^ter/cos) TpiiroSlaKri, which
have been omitted, as would seems to have been the form
follow from the admission of understood by Plutarch, who
the Megaric version. writes the gentile adjective
2 The termination of the plural Tpi7rocWicatoi.
name varies, as in a great num-

XVII. J MEGARIS. 411
from Megara to Corinth, the evident vestiges of
an ancient town. The position is perfectly in
agreement with the fable of the foundation of Tri
podiscus, related by Pausanias. According to
that author, Coroebus the Argive, after having
slain the monster Poena, which had been sent by
Apollo to punish the Argives for the death of the
child of Apollo by Psamathe, daughter of their
king Crotopus, went to Delphi to give him
self up to punishment. He was ordered by the
oracle to take a tripod out of the temple, to return
towards Argos, and wherever the tripod fell to the
ground to reside there, and to build a temple to
Apollo1. The remains are exactly on the shortest
route from Delphi to the Isthmus, over Mount
Geraneia, leaving Megara a few miles on the
left2. It is probable that iEgeirusa, like Nisaea and
Tripodiscus, was in the western part of the Me
garis, for none of the places mentioned in the
Megaric reading of the verses in the Iliad are
among those which, according to Pausanias, occu-
1 Pausan. Attic, c. 43. Megarenses held probably a
According to Conon, (nar- market near Tripodiscus, on
rat. 19, ap. Phot. Bibl. p. 179,) account of its being a more cen-
Crotopus, not Coroebus, was tral situation to the Megaris than
the founder ofthe Argive colony their own city ; such markets
at Tripodiscus. in some spot convenient to
2 Strabo says, TpiiroSlaKiov all the vicinage, and gene-
— ica6' o r) vvv ayopd tiSv Me- rally named from the nearest
yapkoiv KEtrat, from which it town, are still common in every
might be supposed, that Tri- part of the Levant, and appear
podiscus was nearer to Megara, to have been equally so an-
but this does not follow. The ciently. 13

412 MEGARIS. [CHAP.
pied the Oreine, or mountain district to the north
ward and eastward, whence it would seem also
that the western part only was claimed by the
Salaminii and Megarenses as the ancient dominion
of Ajax. iEgeirusa, according to Theopompus,
was also called iEgeirus1. In Scylax, we find
Aris noticed as the last place on the Alcyonic or
northern coast of the Megaris2. It is not impro
bable that among the numerous corrections re
quired in the names of Scylax, should be that of
Alyupoe. in place of "Apig. In this case it becomes
likely that iEgeirus occupied the slope of Mount
Geraneia towards the Corinthian Sea, and that its
district bordered upon that of CEnoe of the Corin
thia, which appears from Strabo to have been
situated not far to the eastward of Cape Olmiae3.
On some part of Geraneia there was a town or
fortress, homonymous with the mountain. This
appears as well from Scylax as from Thucydides,
who states the Athenians to have maintained a
garrison there before the Peloponnesian war, and
that, by the possession of Geraneia, Pagae, and
Megara, they commanded the communication be-
1 Ap. Stephan. in Atyst- xc T° iraXaioV Kal at 'OXplai,
povaa. to iroiovv aKpwrripiov rbv koX-
2 Metci Be Boiwrovg Msyapeig irov, kv J rj te Oivbrj /cat LTayat,
Eiaiv 'kBvog /cat 7rdXEt£ at^E. At- to fxkv t&v MfyapEwy ippoipiov,
yoaBkvai, LT?jyai, r£Tx"£ TEpd- j1/ Sk Olvby t&v KopivBitiiv. —
VEia, "Apig. IlapdirXovg Be t&v Strabo, p. 380.
MEyapkdiv x™pa£ ardBia p . 'Ev Sk rw KoiXorctrai row icoX-
— Scylax. Perip. MEyapEtg. irov tovtov (scil. row Koptvflta-
3 'Ev Sk ru pETaE,v tov Ae- kov) avpflkfiyKE rag LTayctg K£~ta-
Xatov Kal rtSv LTaytiij' to Tijg Bai Kal rr)v Olvoyv. — Strabo,
'AKpalag pavr£~iov "Hpaj birrip- p. 409.

XVII. J MEGARIS. 413
tween Northern Greece and the Peloponnesus1.
When Cassander, after having reduced a great
part of the Peloponnesus in the year B.C. 316, re
tired into Macedonia, he left a garrison in Gera
neia2. The fortress probably stood at the summit
of the ridge where the road must in all ages have
passed. Cimolia is known only as having been the scene
of action of a victory, obtained by the Mega
renses and Athenians over the Corinthians3 in the
year B.C. 458. It appears to have been in the
plain of Megara : perhaps at the place where
Wheler found the remains of several churches
built on the ruins of more ancient buildings, and
where he copied a Latin and a Greek inscription :
this place, called Paleokhori, is three' or four miles
northward of Megara4.
In the western angle of the Bay of Megara, at
the commencement of the rocks Scironides, Chan
dler observed many Hellenic foundations and other
remains. It is not improbable that they may indi
cate the site of a come named Scirone, for as well as
can be understood from the imperfect passage in
Pausanias, which introduces his mention of the
rocks Scironides, and the story of Ino and Meli-
certe, there was a place named after Sciron, who
was polemarch of the Megarenses when Nisus was
their king, and who was the first to make a foot-path

1 Thucyd. 1. 1, c. 107. * A Journey to Greece, p.
2 Diod. 1. 19, c. 54. 434.
3 Diodor. Sic. 1. 11, c. 79.

414 MEGARIS. [CHAP.
along the rocks1. This path may easily be made im
practicable, as the Greeks rendered it after the loss
of Thermopylae 2, or it may be made passable by two
carriages abreast, as Hadrian rendered it3. Wheler
passed it in 1676 with horses, but at present it is only
practicable by foot-passengers. The length of the
Scironian rocks was reckoned six Roman miles4, and
according to Pausanias they were all comprehended
within the Megaris. The two most projecting and
remarkable rocks5 were named the Moluris, and
the kvaysiQ, ot execrable. From the rock Moluris it
was reported that Ino, or Leucothea, pursued by
her husband Athamas, threw herself into the sea
with her son Melicertes, otherwise called Palaemon,
who was carried by a dolphin to the Isthmus,
where the Corinthians worshipped him as a divinity
and instituted games in his honour. The "exe
crable' rock was that from which Sciron the
robber threw strangers into the sea6, and from
which he was himself thrown by Theseus. On the
summit of the mountain there was a temple of
Jupiter, who received the epithet Aphesius for
1 rijv Be ovopa^oukvrjv dirb 5 . . . . irkrpag, at Kara to
—¦Kipiiivog Kal kg rbcc S/c/'pti/v [al. otevov rrjg bSov fidXiara dvk-
—Kipuivnv\ rjvUa NEyapEvaiv xovaiy- — Pausan. Attic, c. 44.
kiroXEpdpxEi irp&rog (Kal) wg 6 A sea-tortoise lay under
XEyovtrtv kiroirfoEv avBpaaiv the rocks ready to devour the
EvZ&voig oSeveiv. — Pausan. At- victims of Sciron. These ani-
tic. c. 44. mals, adds Pausanias, differ
2 Herodot. 1. 8, c. 71. only from land-tortoises in
3 dppara kvavria kXavvEaBai their greater size, and in the
— Pausan. Attic, c. 44. shape of the foot, which resem-
4 Plin. H. N. 1. 4, c. 7. bles that of the sea-calf (<t>&Ka~).

XVI1.J MEGARIS. 415
having removed the drought, which ceased after
iEacus had sacrificed to Jupiter Panhellenius in
iEgina. The temple of Aphesius contained
statues of Venus, Apollo, and Pan. Beyond the
"execrable" rock occurred the sepulchre of Eu-
rystheus, who was slain here by Iolaus, after which
there was a descent to the temple of Apollo Latous,
near which was the boundary of the Megaris and
Corinthia, in a spot where Hyllus, son of Her
cules, was said to have fought with Echemus the
Arcadian.

CHAPTER XVIII.
ATTICA, BOZOTIA.
Mount Parnes — View from the summit — Departure from Athens
— Kifisia — Vrana — Plain of Marathon — Suli — Tricorythus —
Temple of Xemesis — Evreokastro, Rhamnus — Grammatiko —
Varnava — Mount Mavronoro, Phelleus — Kalamo, Psaphis —
Mavrodhflisi, temple of Amphiaraus — Apostolus, Delphinium
— 'Oropo, Oropus — Sykamino — Dhib'ssi, Delium — Battle of
Delium — Skimatari — Grimadha, Tanagra — Rivers Lari and
Asopus — Battlesof Tanagra uniCEnophytaB — 'l_ia,OZnophytae
— Andritza, Pharos — Archaic inscriptions — Ylokho — Mounts
Soro, Sulla — Return to Thebes — Chalia — Cynoscephalae —
Graeas-stethus.
Jax. 10. — A continuation of the serene weather,
which 1 found on entering Attica, tempts me to
make an excursion to the summit of Mount Parnes,
notwithstanding the time of year. This point,
although not so distinct and unambiguous as the
summits of Pentelicum and Cithaeron, or that of
Khlomo near Talanda, is more comprehensive than
any near the south-eastern extremity of Greece in
the extent of its view over Attica, Bceotia, Eubcea,
and the Saronic Gulf. Passing through the Gribos
Kapesi, orllopTa tov 'Eypl-ov, at 1.41, we very soon
afterwards enter the olive woods : at 2 pass many
foundations of ancient walls ; at 2.27 cross the
IJoSovlipTy, or Washfoot, as the Cephissus is now
called, and in four minutes more a larger branch

CHAP. XVIII. ] ATTICA. 417
of the same river, from which many channels
are derived for mills and gardens. At 2.45
Dervish Agu and Turali, two small villages on
the river, are at a small distance on the right.
At 3.20 we arrive at Menidhi. Here on some
rocky heights a little to the left of the town, are
foundations and antique fragments, indicative of
the site of a demus ; at a small chapel there is a
sarcophagus in its place, and lying near it an in
scribed marble adorned with a vase in relief; both
which were excavated on the spot. On the north
ern side of the village is an abundant source of
water, which does not fail in summer. Menidhi
is the largest village in Attica next to Khassia ; it
consists mostly of small houses two stories high,
and is surrounded by a plantation of olive trees and
some gardens.
From hence I proceed to the monastery of Aio
Nikola, at the foot of Mount Parnes. A little be
yond Menidhi a massy foundation of ancient wall
crosses a torrent now dry, which flows from Parnes
in a wide gravelly bed, and after passing Menidhi
joins the Cephissus. A Menidhiote peasant, of
whom I inquire whether he knows of any other
walls ofthe same kind in the neighbourhood, de
scribes to me the situation of Phyle above Khassia,
and when I ask him the name of that castle,
answers o-to $uXi Xe-vojuev wpzk ; thus showing that
Phyle still preserves its ancient appellation, though,
like many other Greek names, it is neutralized into
<bvXl instead of being <I>vAtJ. The Xkyopsv vpuc. ofthe
Menidhiote was not without its Attic salt. Know
ing that the ruins are of Hellenic construction, he
VOL. n. e e

418 ATTICA. [CHAP.
thought that the place might have had a different
name anciently, which name I might know, though
he was ignorant of it. He seems pleased to learn
that fpuXr) was the Hellenic name of the castle,
and this little lesson in archaeology an Attic pea
sant is not likely to forget.
We are just an hour in riding from Menidhi to
St. Nicolas. The road passes along the right side
of the torrent before mentioned, and then ascends
by a gentle slope to the monastery, which stands
immediately below woods of pine which cover the
steep acclivity of the mountain, and commands a
beautiful view of the plain of Athens, including
the city, and the Saronic Gulf. St. Nicolas is a
small metokhi dependent on the monastery of
'A-yi'a Tplas, vulgarly Aia Triadha, or the Holy
Trinity, situated midway between the metokhi
and the summit of the mountain, in a valley
abounding in sources of water, and shaded with
walnut and chestnut trees. The eojotjj, or feast of
the saint, is in May, and is much resorted to from
the city. I am lodged at St. Nicolas in a cell of one
of the monks, small, but having a ceiling, floor,
and fire-place; luxuries to which I have been little
accustomed in Thessaly and Boeotia. Indeed, in
every part of Greece it must be the lot of the ex
ploring traveller to partake of those miseries of
Greek poverty of which Aristophanes drew a pic
ture in the Plutus so true and lively, that the tra
veller, who has once read the verses, will not fail
to be continually reminded of them \ The snug
1 —b yap av iropiaai ri cvvai dyaBbv irXr)v <j>&Suiv eh: flaXai'Eiov,
Kal iratSapluiv viroirEivuivruiv Kal ypaiSioiy KoXoavorbv,

XVIII. J ATTIC.V. 419
cell at St. Nicolas is peculiarly opportune, as a
violent southerly wind, accompanied with rain, de
tains me all the 11th of January, and an ascent of
the mountain in such weather is out of the ques
tion. I have not observed in Attica any of the
birds called Toia, a species of bustard which I saw
in immense numbers in the plains of Boeotia, and
which I suppose to be the wti'Sec observed in the
same plains by Pausanias. A nobler bird of the
same genus, the wild turkey, exactly resembling
the domestic, makes its appearance in the spring,
and I was informed by Mr. Consul S. at Patra,
that they are sometimes sold there in the market.
The bird and its name were probably introduced
into England from this country.
Jan. 12.— The Igumenos of Aia Triadha, who
came to St. Nicolas yesterday on hearing of my
arrival, accompanies me to the summit of the
mountain. The shortness of the days, and the
uncertainty of the weather, making the most direct
road preferable, we do not pass by Aia Triadha,
but ascend the south-eastern slope of the moun
tain, in face of Kifissia. and Mount Mendeli, cross-
<&B£ip&v t dpiBpbv Kal Kuivinritiv Kal ^vXX&v (oiiBk Xkybi aoi
'Yirb tov irXyBovg) al jjopfiovaai wEpl rr)v KE<j>aXr)v avi&atv,
'EirEysipovaai Kal (ppdi^ovaat, irEivrjatig, aXX' kiraviaTOi.
TIpbg Sk ye rovroig, dvB' Ipariov pkv exeiv pdmg, dvrl Sk /cXtVjjc
—TifidBa axoivtiiv Kopsuiv pEaryv, fj rovg EvBovrag eyelpei.
Rat <j>6pfiov exeiv dvrl rdiryrog aairpbv, dvrl Sk irpoaKEipaXalov
AiBov EvpEykBrf irpbg ry KEipaXy' aiTElaBai c5' dvrl pkv dpnov
MaXa/cjje irropBovg' dvrl Sk pdZ,r\g (pvXXEl, laxvGiv paipaviSoiv,
'AvtI Be 6pavowj ardpvov KEfaXrjv KaTEaybrog, dvrl Sk fiaKrpag
LTiOa/cj/jjc; 7rX£vpaV, kpptoyv'iav Kal Tavryv. Aristoph. Plut. v. 535.
E e 2

420 ATTICA. [CHAP.
ing two or three remata which flow to the Cephissus.
The lower part of the mountain is covered with
pines ; these, as we proceed, are mixed with
holly-oaks and firs, and at length, towards the
surnmit, the wood consists entirely of the last.
Three years ago an accidental fire caught the fir-
wood, and consumed three quarters of it ; such at
least is the calculation of my companion the abbot;
but one quarter perhaps would be nearer the truth.
He says that the fire burnt four days, but that the
greater part of the mischief was done in a few
hours. Not much of the timber has been destroyed,
but the dead and leafless trunks give a desolate
appearance to the scenery, which before this acci
dent must have been beautiful even in the present
season : frequent rivulets and green ravines occur
amidst the firs, and here and there a small space is
cultivated with corn. With these exceptions the
mountain is entirely covered with forests, and con
tains an inexhaustible supply of timber for the
Athenians. It is to the manufacture of plank that
I am indebted for the means of ascending the
mountain on horseback by a tolerable road.
Parnes still continues to supply Athens with
charcoal, but the demand not being such as to
cause any great consumption of wood in the manu
facture of it, the people of Menidhi and Khassia,
who have succeeded the dvQpaicuc, of Acharnae in
its manufacture, have no necessity at present to
ascend very high in the mountain for their ma
terials. The wild thyme, lentisk, myrtle, and
other shrubs, produced in abundance upon Hy-
mettus and the uncultivated parts of the ITscStov,

XVIII. J ATTICA. 421
supply a sufficiency of wood for heating the ovens
of Athens, and the mangol is not much used during
the brief Athenian winter, when it is more the cus
tom among the upper classes, all whose apartments
have chimneys, to burn on their hearths some old
olive or ilex, which has been overthrown by Bo
reas or Sciron. Both those trees make excellent
firewood, but particularly the olive.
Mount Parnes still contains wild boars, as in the
time of Pausanias, but bears are very rarely if ever
seen \ It abounds also in wolves, hares and par
tridges, and is covered with a good soil, better in
deed than that of the now totally uncultivated plain
which lies between it and Mount Pentelicum. To
wards the top of the mountain, the rock makes its
appearance on the most exposed ridges, but in gene
ral the firs reach to the very summit, and they
impede in some directions the view, which is one
of the most extensive in Greece. Attica, Boeotia,
a part of Phocis, the southern portion of Euhoea, the
barriers of the Isthmus and the Saronic gulf, with
the opposite coast of Argolis are ichnographically
displayed. To the right of Mount Parnassus rise
the snow-capped range of mountains on the borders
of ^Etolia and Doris, which extend to CEta, to the
right of which a long snowy ridge makes its ap
pearance above the Boeotian mountains Ptoum and
Hypatus, which I recognize for Othrys. In the
northern portion of Euhoea, the cliffs which border
the coast between Politika. and Limni are conspicu
ous, and the highest summit of them, called Kan-
Ilapvyg irapEXop-kvr) Br\pav av&v dypiuiv Kal apKroiv.--
Pausan. Attic, c. 32.

422 ATTICA. [chap.
dili, shows itself between Khtypa and 'Egripo. Still
following the horizon to the right, are seen the hill
of Kalogheritza, the straits near it, the mouth of
the Asopus, Mount Dhelfi, anciently Dirphe or
Dirphys, the highest mountain in Euhoea next to
Oche, and remarkable for its sharp cone, then the
mountain immediately above Kumi in Euhoea, then
Kalamo in Attica1.
The channel of Euboea changes its direction from
north to north-west at the cape of Rhamnus, in
Attica, which is the termination of the great Boeoto-
Attic chain of Cithaeron and Parnes, and is imme
diately opposite to the bay of Stura, the ancient Styra,
in the midst of which is an island, probably the
iEgilia of Herodotus 2. Here the island of Euboea
1 The following angles, connecting points in Euboea and three
other islands with the main, may possibly be of use to geographers.
Mount Kandili (cliffs in Euboea, between Politika
and Limni) with summit of Khtypk ... 9° 25'
M. Khtypa and the Euripus  12 10
 and the tower at the entrance of the strait
near Vasiliko  • 16 12
 and mouth of the Asopus  37 19
 and summit of Mount Dirphe  44
 and summit of the hill above Kumi  70
 and Kalamo in Attica  73 23
M. Dirphe and Kavo Doro  90
 and Mount Pentelicum  106 18
Pentelicum, and the north point of Skyro  91 31
 and the south point of Skyro  76 7
 and the north point of Zia  6 14
 and the south point of Zia  18 4
 and south cape of Andhro  10 50
 and east cape of Ydhra  61 49
Bearing of Pentelicum by compass, S. 39 | E.
2 Herodot. 1. 6, c. 101, 107.

XVII1.J ATTICA. 423
is narrower than in any part, except at the isth
mus of Lithadha at the northern extremity. Both
these narrow places seem to be unknown to modern
geographers ; the isthmus of Stura is noticed by
Plutarch in the life of Phocion, who after the battle
of Tamynae occupied a fortress on the isthmus,
named Zaretra. The peninsula to the southward of
Stura terminates in the great round mountain, the
highest in Euboea, anciently called Oche, which to
the north-east throws out the terrible Caphareus,
now Xylofago or Kavo Doro, and to the south-west
cape Mandili, the south-eastern extremity of the
island, and anciently named Geraestus. It appears
from the ancient authors, that there was a town and
temple of Neptune on this cape, and a port below
it ', which seems very small, though Livy describes
it as " nobilis Eubceae portus2." It may have de
rived some shelter from a small island which lies
immediately off the cape. Between this promontory
and the islands Petalius, the ancient Petaliae, is
the great bay of Karysto, and in the middle of it
is the town seen a little to the right of Kavo Doro,
and situated, as Strabo describes it, at the foot of
Mount Oche.
In the Gulf of 'Eghina or the Saronic Gulf, it is
observable that the eastern end of Salamis, the
western end of _Egina, the eastern end of Pityonesus
(now called Anghistri), the western end of the pe
ninsula of Methana, and the summit of mount
Ortholithi in the Argolic peninsula, fall in the same
line) To the right of these, is the cluster of rocks
1 Strabo, p. 446. Thucyd. 1. 3, c. 3. Xenoph. Hellen. 1. 3, u.4.
2 Liv. 1. 31, c. 45.

424 ATTICA. [chap.
called the Pendenisia, or five islands ; in a line
with Mount Arachnaeum near Ligurio. A little
to the right of the Pendenisia is seen a cape of
the Argolic coast, round which the coast retires
to the left, and forms the bay of Sofiko. Another
small island shows itself a little to the right of An-
ghistri, lying between it and the Pendenisia, and
another of the same size nearer to Salamis, forming
nearly an equilateral triangle with the former and
Pendenisia. The nearest district on the Boeotian side is the
Tanagrice, or Tanagraea, inclosed between the
lower heights of Parnes and the low Theban ridge,
of which the principal summit is now called Soro.
The Asopus is seen forcing its way through a rocky
ravine of no great length from the Parasopia into
the plain of Tanagra, which is separated only from
the maritime plain of Oropus by the last falls of
Parnes near 'Oropo and Sykamino, above which two
villages the Asopus again traverses a rocky defile,
which prohably formed the separation between the
Tanagrice and Oropia. At the head of the plain of
Tanagra, just under Parnes, stands Mavromati, in
a line with the convent of Siamata. In the middle
of the plain of Tanagra, Skimatari interlineates
with Mount Kandili of Euboea; and near the sea
Vathy is seen in a direction a little to the left of
the Euripus ; close under Parnes, on the right bank
of the Asopus, is the tower and village of Staniates.
In the direction of Pentelicum we look down on
Tatoy, near which village a fountain, some frag
ments of ancient sculpture, and the foundations of
walls, indicate the site of the celebrated Deceleia.

XVI1I.J ATTICA. 425
On the slope of a round mountain behind Rhamnus,
and in a line with its summit, are seen Kapandriti,
and a little beyond it Khalkuki. From thence a
cultivated slope descends to the valley of Marathon.
From the north-western side of the same height,
and from the adjacent parts of Parnes, the waters
meet, and form a torrent, which passes a little to
the right of Markopulo, and falls into the sea be
tween the mouth of the Asopus and Kalamo.
The direction of the streams in Attica shows the
different slopes of the land. All the waters from
the south and south-east of Parnes flow to the Ce
phissus, the most distant origin of which is in some
heights attached to the north-western side of Pen
telicum, about four miles to the south-east of Tatoy.
The river receives contributions from Pentelicum as
it proceeds through the plain, particularly that
rising at Kifisia, which in fact is the principal
source of the river. The waters from the northern
side of Pentelicum and from the southern side of
the range which stretches from Parnes to Rhamnus,
meet and form the Charadra of Marathon; the low
ridge of Tatoy which connects the slopes of Pen
telicum and Parnes, separates the waters contri
buting to the Cephissus and flowing to the Saronic
Gulf, from those which flow to the Charadra and
the Euhoic frith.
The mountains of the Mesoghia are well distin
guished, but the greater part of its plain is hidden
by Hymettus, which is now called Telovuni. The
first mountain of the Paralia, seen to the left of
Hymettus, is 'Elymo, a round hill of no great height
and not far from the sea, and which has a village

426 ATTICA. [CHAP.
of the same name at its foot. To the left of it
appears Mount Pani, which beginning eastward of
Vari, runs inland to the plain of the Mesoghia and
to Keratia. Beyond Pani rises the ancient Lau-
rium, for which I cannot learn any modern name,
then a hill the highest of all the minor ones, and
similar in form to Hymettus, near the village
Markopulo (of Mesoghia) ; beyond which are two
pointed heights, one on the southern, the other on
the northern side of Porto Rafti.
Jan. 13. — Return to Athens, leaving St. Nico
las at 8.21, and passing through Menidhi at 9.3.
At 9.20 halt by the side of a cultivated rising-
ground, on the summit of which are modern walls.
Soon afterwards reach the side of a torrent called
lanula ', now running rapidly in consequence of
the late rains. It rises in a gorge of Parnes east
ward of Phyle, passes by Khassia, receives the
great torrent from Parnes which passes by Menidhi,
and thus forms a principal branch of the Cephissus,
which it joins at some mills a little below Turali.
We pass the junction of the two streams at 9.57,
and a few minutes after cross the Cephissus. At
10.50 enter the 'Egripo gate : the Menidhi road
branches from that of 'Egripo at the passage of the
Cephissus. Jan. 28. — From Athens to Kifisia andVrana2.
1 'IavouXa, or TtavoCXa. Attica, printed in the Trans-
2 I have omitted the Itine- actions of the Royal Society
ran" of some excursions around of Literature, vol. i. For the
Athens, because the results same reason the Remarks on
added to those of former jour- the Marathonia and the Itine-
neys, have been published in rary through Attica have been
an Essav on the Demi- of very much curtailed.

XVIII.J ATTICA. 427
— At 9.55 pass through the 'Egripo gate : at
10.20 arrive at Arnbelokipo, where are gardens
and olive-grounds with small casini, situated along
the Ilissus, for a considerable distance above the
monastery of Petraki : from thence proceed along
the south-eastern side of a ridge called Lule-vuno,
the Ilissus remaining at a short distance on the
right. By the road side are several round holes
of great depth cut through the rock, belonging to
a conduit apparently of ancient workmanship
which still supplies the town, entering it at the
north-eastern gate, which is vulgarly called Bu-
bunistra, from the noise of the water in the con
duit. At 1 1 on our left are the ruins of a Roman
aqueduct on arches, crossing a valley, and which
appears by its direction to have brought water
from Mount Parnes. It was probably the same
which was constructed for the Athenians by Tra
jan, and terminated by Antoninus Pius, as we
learn from an inscription over the gate at Bubun-
istra. It is very possible that here, as at Eleusis,
there was more than one source to the aqueduct ;
and that all the three mountains, Parnes, Penteli
cum, and Hymettus, may have contributed water
to the supply of Roman Athens. The work of
Trajan was perhaps an addition from Mount
Parnes to the original conduit which was exca
vated in the rock, according to the mode cus
tomary in Greece before the time of the Romans.
We now enter the olive plantations which sur
round Kifisia and the adjacent villages. At 11.22
pass Kato Marusi, often called Logotheti, as be
longing to the English vice-consul of that name.
13

428 ATTICA. [CHAP.
It contains only a pyrgo, a garden, and two or
three cottages. At 11.25 cross a stream called
Pispir, which originates near the monastery of
Mendeli ; it forms a considerable branch of the
Cephissus. Having crossed several other smaller
remata, and at 11.35 passed through Upper Ma-
rusi, we arrive at 11.56 at Kifisia, vulgarly pro
nounced Kifisha or Tjifisha. Here are several large
pyrghi with good gardens, and a mosque, before
which are a fountain and a beautiful plane-tree.
The rare advantage in Attica of an abundance of
running water in the middle of summer has ren
dered this place a favourite abode of the Turks of
Athens ; but the generality of the houses are in a
ruinous condition, and all in the present season are
empty. The Greeks are at work in the olive-
grounds, corn-fields, and vineyards ; and the
women, alarmed at the sight of an armed Alba
nian servant of mine, lock up their houses and
hide themselves.
Having proceeded from Kifisia at 12.3S. the
olive-woods soon cease, and we enter upon the
uncultivated root of Mount PenteKcum, which
unites that mountain with Parnes. All the upper
part of the plain of Athens adjacent to this ridffe
is covered with arbutus and stunted pines. At
1.25, having turned the end of the mountain,
we are in a line between its summit and the pass
of Decelem, where the modern road to Egripo
passes between two heights which are separated
by a deep rema originating at a Kefalovrvsi under
Tatoy. a village, the territory of which is a narrow
strip of cultivated land among the pine-woods.

XVIII. J ATTICA. 429
The torrent of Tatoy is a tributary of the Cephissus,
but the fountains of Kifisia are the principal feeder
of that river, though not the most distant, which
is at Fasidhero, on the heights between Kifisia and
Tatoy : this branch flows through the plain at no
great distance to the west of Kifisia.
At 1.50 we pass the small village of Stamata in
an elevated situation, surrounded by a few barren
fields, among woods of pine. It was probably the
site of a demus ; but no fortifications or other re
mains are to be seen, although the position is im
portant as being in the middle of the communica
tion between the plain of Marathon and that of
Athens. Several torrents flow through ravines on
our right from Mount Pentelicum, and after uniting,
enter the plain of Marathon at Vrana. We ascend
through a barren mountainous tract studded with
pines, until at 2.36, being at no great distance to
the northward of the peaked summit of Mount
Aforismos ', an opening in the ridge commands
a view of the plain of Marathon, the marsh, and
salt lake, together with the channel and island
of Euboea, Mount Oche, the islands Petaliae, and
the bays of Marmari and Stura. Aforismos,
though steep, has a very regular slope, and is
beautifully clothed with pine-woods. It is pro
bably the ancient Icarius. The descent from
hence to Vrana. is long, and we do not arrive
there till 3.10. This village stands immediately
at the foot of the mountain, on a low rocky height
surrounded on three sides by the deep stony bed
1 'Aipopiafiog.

430 ATTICA. [CHAP.
of the torrent before mentioned, which spreads
and is lost in the plain of Marathon. The peaked
summit of Mendeli, or Pentelicum, appears through
the opening of the torrent at the back of the vil
lage. A third peak, in the same cluster of moun
tains, called Argaliki ], lying eastward of Aforis
mos, rises immediately from the plain, and sends
forth a deep charadra which extends from the
summit quite into the plain. On its bank, just
at the foot of the mountain, are some remains
of Hellenic walls among other ruins of a more
modern date ; this I take to be the site of the
Heracleium, or temple of Hercules, near Mara
thon ; for this demus I believe to have been situated
not at the modern Marathona, but at Vrana. Each
of the three summits called Mendeli, Aforismos,
and Argaliki, had probably its ancient name ;
but the whole mountain I conceive to have been
that called Brilessus, which may also have been
the specific name of Mendeli, as being the highest
and most conspicuous of the three. The identity
of Pentelicum and Brilessus can hardly be doubt
ful on comparing Thucydides, Theophrastus,
Strabo, and Pausanias2. There is no other sum
mit in this part of Attica of sufficient importance
to answer to Brilessus ; nor any author but Pausa
nias, who employs the word Pentelicum as the name
of the modern Mendeli ; about his time, therefore,
this appellation probably became common in con
sequence of the celebrity of the marble of the

1 'ApyaXi'izci. phrast.de Sign. Temp. — Strabo,
2 Thucyd. 1. 2, c. 23.— Theo- p. 399.— Pausan. Attic. ... 32.

XVIII. J ATTICA. 431
demus Pentele, and thus expelled the old word
Brilessus or Brilettus, which, like Hymettus, and
several others having a similar termination, be
longs to the earliest language of Attica.
The season has been so dry, that at present
there is not a drop of water in the Charadrus, or
torrent of Marathon, with the exception of a few
stagnant pools towards the mouth. The wheat is
just above the ground, the barley some inches
high : large tracts in various parts of the plain are
covered with hyacinths in bloom, and the unculti
vated parts are clothed with a fine grass, affording
pasture to large flocks of sheep and goats, which
have been brought hither for the most part from
Mount Helicon, and are now followed by a great
number of lambs and kids.
Jan. 29. — Having on a former occasion passed
four days at Marathon, I have little to detain me
here. While I was employed on the summit of
the Soros *, as the tumulus of the Athenians is
called, my servant amused himself in gathering,
at the foot of the barrow, a great number of small
pieces of black flint which happened to strike his
observation. These flints are so numerous, and
have been so evidently chipped by art into their
present form, like gun-flints, that there is good
reason for believing them to have been the heads
of arrows discharged by the Persians who fought at

' b atopbg, the heap. It" is applied to a tumulus heaped
probable that aopbg, a coffin, over the dead.
was originally the same word,

432 ATTICA. [CHAP.
Marathon, and to have been interred with the Athe
nians, after having been gathered from every part
of the plain, after the battle : Herodotus shows,
that some of the Barbarians were armed in this
manner, though his remark is applied not to the
army of Darius, but to that of Xerxes. Flint of
this kind, if produced in any of the adjacent parts
of Greece, is at least very rare. I have heard
that arrow heads of bronze have also been found
here, but we searched for them without success.
The earth of the tumulus is mixed with a fine
sand, and resembles that of the soil of Egypt.
Marmari, on the opposite coast of Eubcea, is
an ancient name mentioned by Strabo, from
whom we learn that it was so called from the
quarries of marble commonly called Carystian,
which were there situated. With rather more
accuracy than usual, Strabo describes it as over-
against Halae Araphenides in Attica1. Opposite
to the middle of the Bay of Marathon is an
island named Platia, situated two or three miles
from the Eubaean coast. At Cape Cynosura, of
the Marathonia, the channel narrows to five
miles, and the Bay of Stura extends from thence
to Porto Bufalo. Stura, the ancient Styra, is near
the shore in the inner part of the bay, in the
middle of which is the Stura-nisi, or ^Egilia.
From Soros I proceed to the chapel of St.
George, under Mount Stavrokoraki ; and from
thence ride round the foot of that mountain to the
1 Strab. p. 446. Stephan. in Mapfidpiov.

XVIII. J ATTICA. 433
corner of the great marsh, which stretches from
thence to the salt lake of Dhrakoneria. Towards
Kato-Suli the road passes over rocks, from under
which issue some copious springs of water; a little
below them is the deepest part ofthe lake of Mara
thon. In summer, when the water is confined to
a small space, eels are caught here. This,
and the Dhrakoneria at the foot of the ridge of
Cynosura, or cape at the northern extremity of the
Bay of Marathon, are then the only parts of the
marsh which preserve any water. The springs at
the foot of Stavrokoraki are probably the fountain
Macaria. Having sent my baggage by the ordinary route
to Grammatiko and Kalamo by Upper Suli, I
proceed with a single attendant to visit the sites
of Tricorythus and Rhamnus. That of the for
mer demus is at thirteen minutes from Kato-
Suli, on the right of the road to Rhamnus, where
a rising ground is covered with fragments of Pen-
telic marble, many wrought blocks, and in one
place some remains of columns without flutings.
The plain of Tricorythus is of a semicircular form,
and terminates in a pass, from which a torrent
issues, and, after crossing the plain, joins the
marsh .
At 1.4, ten minutes beyond the ruins of Trico
rythus, we enter the pass, which at 1.10 opens
into a plain, about three miles in length, and one
in breadth, separated from the shore only by a
rocky ridge, and inclosed on the opposite side by
the mountain of Dhimiko.
This valley formed the best part of the ancient
VOL. II. f f

434 ATTICA. [CHAP.
Rhamnusia. Like the plain of Suli, it contains
many velanidhi trees, has a tolerable soil, but is
ploughed only in a few places. At the northern
extremitv are the ruins of the temple of the Rham-
nusian Nemesis, lying in a confused heap on the
peribolus, the wall of which is still a conspicuous
object. In the plain, at a small distance from the
wall, is the foundation of a square and another of
a round monument, of small dimensions, probably
sepulchral. The peribolus included two temples'.
and stood at the head of a gorge leading bv a
regular slope to Ovrio-kastro, which is eleven
minutes distant from the temples on the sea shore ;
the remains of a wall are observable on the left of
the road all the way down. Ovrio-kastro, a com
mon Romaic form of 'Efipaio-Kaorpov, or Jewish
Castle, is situated on a small heisrht overhansr-
ing the sea, and is closely surrounded on every
other side by higher hills, which are barren and
covered with shrubs. To the north the heisrht is
strengthened by a deep torrent, now dry : on the
opposite side there is a hollow and a small level
by the sea. so that the fortress itself was only con
nected with the hills at the back by a little ridge,
on which stand the remains of a gateway, with the
adjacent walls still extant to half their height.
They are ofthe third order of masonry, built of Attic
marble, and being mixed with shrubs and bushes
form a very picturesque ruin. On the highest
part of the hill, a small quadrangular keep occu-
1 For a description of the and a paper On the Demi of
temple of Nemesis, see the Attica, in the Transactions of
Unedited Antiquities of Attica, the R. S. of Lit. p. 197.

XVIII.J ATTICA. 435
pied an angle of the inclosure : the walls are
traceable in most parts, but are not of any consi
derable height except near the gate. The whole
circumference of the inclosure was little more
than half a mile, but the ground about the temples
seems also to have been inhabited. In the middle
of the inclosure of the fortress lies a monument of
white marble, concave on one of the sides, and
broken into two pieces, on one of which, in the
middle of the concave side, are the words,
PAMNOY2I02KQM0IA0I2
in very neat characters. The name of the man
of Rhamnus, who dedicated the monument, was
probably on another stone. Immediately opposite
to Rhamnus, in the narrowest part of the Euboic
frith, where the breadth is only two miles, is the
entrance of Porto Bufalo, which I take to have
been anciently the harbour of Porthmus. The oc
cupation and destruction of the fortress of Porth
mus by Philip, after expelling the Eretrians, to
whom it belonged, was one of the accusations
repeatedly urged against him by Demosthenes :
the orator particularly alludes to its position,
diravTiKpv txjq Attiktiq, or opposite to Attica, and
his commentator Ulpian observes, that Porthmus
was a harbour dependent on Eretria '. The advan
tages of this harbour seem to have given importance
to Porthmus during a long succession of ages2.
1 Demosth.Philip.3,p.ll9. 2 Plin. H. N. 1. 4, c. 12.
125. Reiske; 4, p. 133. De Hierocl. p. 645.
Corona, p. 248.
pf 2

436 ATTICA. [CHAP.
A little to the northward of Porto Bufalo is Dhysta,
the ancient Dystus, against which, according to
Theopompus, Philip proceeded from the vicinity
of Eretria *, in the course of the same transactions
referred to by Demosthenes. Styra, now Stura,
is seen to the southward, and Mount Dirphe
bearing 6° to the north of west.
From the temple of Nemesis, a line drawn
through the pass leading into the plain of Tri-
corythus will cut a cape near Porto Rafti, which
I observed from the foot of Mount Stavrokoraki ;
Ovrio-kastro is in the same line produced north
ward. At 3.22, quitting the temple and crossing
a part of the plain, we ascend the mountains to
the north-westward, which are a continuation of
Mount Dhimiko, and follow the torrent of Ovrio-
kastro to its source, where we arrive at that of
another rema, flowing to the plain of Suli, and
from thence, after having crossed some cultivated
heights which extend in the direction of Kalamo,
arrive at 4.35 at Grammatiko, a village of 30 or
40 houses, prettily situated in a sequestered hol
low among orchards and corn-fields. In one of
these orchards the rain has lately brought to light
a sepulchral stone, adorned in the usual manner
with a pediment, below which are three figures
about one quarter of the human size, in high re
lief. A woman seated has her right hand joined
to that of another woman standing : between them
is a man with a front face in lower relief. The
women are clothed in long drapery, covered with
1 Theopomp. ap. Stephan. in Avarog.

XV1II.J ATTICA. 437
a loose upper robe thrown over the shoulders ;
above the three figures are the names
9E0rENI2 NIK0AHM02 IIOAYAAO
almost obliterated : the form of the characters is of
a good time, as well as the style of the sculpture.
The monument, as well as the situation of the
place, leave little doubt that Grammatiko was the
site of a demus ; but there is no clue to guide us
to the name.
Jan. 30. — At 8.24, leaving Grammatiko, we
ascend a high round ridge north-westward of it,
which I observed from the summit of Parnes. It
is usually called the mountain of Varnava (Bar
nabas), from a small village below it on the side
towards Tatoy. It is higher than either Dhimiko,
or the hill of St. Demetrius, which is another simi
lar summit between Grammatiko and Marathona.
The mountain of Varnava terminates abruptly at
the sea in a rocky peak to the south-east of
Kalamo, which I have remarked from several
points, among others from Psilirakhi. Inland
this mountain takes a sweep at the back of Ka
lamo, where one of its highest tops is called
Mavronoro, and despite its name, is, like the
greater part of the ridge, a round bare white
rock. From thence there is a branch of rug
ged pine-clad hills as far as 'Oropo, which place
is situated at the foot of the extremity of this
ridge. Though much broken, it is in all parts a
cultivable mountain with an easy slope. It com
prises all the territory of Markopulo and Kalamo,
except a small plain on the sea-side northward
of Kalamo, and another smaller to the south-

438 ATTICA. [CHAP.
ward ; Kalamo itself standing on an extremity of
the hills between them. I take these mountains
to be the ancient Phelleus.
Having crossed the ridge of Varnava, we be
gin to descend at 9.15, and at 9.30 having the
highest summit on the right, arrive at a Hellenic
tower, half ruined, and prettily covered with ivy.
Just below it is a fine source of water and a ruined
church, in which are some pieces of small columns,
with a fragment, preserving part of a figure in low
relief. Both the tower and the sculpture are like
almost every thing ancient in Attica, of white mar
ble. They indicate the site of another of the demi
of Mount Phelleus, of which we shall never know
the names, unless some inscriptions should here
after reveal them. Near the ancient tower stands
another of modern date. The village of Varnava is
not far below us on the left. After a loss of ten
minutes we continue our progress over a mountain
ous road, through a country in which there is some
cultivated land amidst oaks, pirnaria, and the com
mon shrubs. At 10.10 we are opposite the open
ing of Tatoy, in the ridge which joins Parnes to
Pentelicum : the summit of Hymettus is seen over
the opening. Many torrents as we proceed flow
to the right in deep ravines towards the sea, par
ticularly one which we cross a quarter of an hour
short of Kalamo, and which terminates in the
small maritime plain already mentioned. Others
on the left of the road contribute to the river of
Marathon. Kalamo, where we arrive at 11.23, is situated
on the heights above the sea, in face of the
deep gulf of Aliveri, in Euboea. It belongs to the

XVIII.J ATTICA. 439
district of Livadhia, contains about 200 houses,
and has an air of improvement and comparative
opulence : there are several new houses of two
stories, smartly white-washed, and having out
houses and inclosed yards. The Proestos has even
glass to his windows. The hill above Kalamo
commands a good view of all the surrounding
parts of Attica and Boeotia, and of the opposite
coast of Euboea. On that shore, a little to the
northward of Porto Bufalo is seen Dhysta, a
village with a pyrgo and lake, then the southern
cape of the Bay of Aliveri, and Aliveri village, at
the bottom of the bay, about two miles from the
shore. The coast has a westerly direction from
thence as far as Eretria. To the southward of
Aliveri, the position of a Hellenic ruin near Ka-
lentzi is pointed out to me, bearing N. 73 E. On
the northern side of the plain, snowy cliffs which
I observed from Psilirakhi reach from N. 35 E. to
N. 18 E., to the westward of which latter direction
is seen the village of Ghymno, situated in a plain,
at the foot of a high mountain which extends
to Eretria. Ghymno is perhaps the site of Ta-
mynae, and the mountain the ancient Cotylaeum '.
The acropolis of Eretria is visible, and on the
adjacent coast four small rocky islands. The
topography of the Euripus is well seen. Fyla,
which bears N. 28-J- W., seems to have derived
its name from its position exactly on the commu
nication between the plains of 'Egripo and Vasi-
1 Herodot. 1. 6, c. 101.— Ctes. p. 480, Reiske. — Ste-
Straho, p. 447. — iEschin. in phan. in KorvXaiov.

440 ATTICA. [chap.
liko, and occupies perhaps the site of an ancient
fortress named QvXrj. Beyond the town of 'Egripo,
the cliffs which stretch along the coast from Politika
northward are again conspicuous, and their highest
point, Kandili, bearing N. 24 W. The principal
summits near Chalcis and Thebes are easily re
cognized. The easternmost point of the Boeotian
shore is in a line with the summit of Othrys.
Kumi, the ancient Cume, from which the towns
of the same name in Ionia and Campania were
named, lies on the eastern end of the cliffs, which
are to the north of Aliveri.
An inscription at Kalamo contains a grant of
proxenia by the Oropii to one CEnophilus of Crete,
and directs a copy of the decree to be placed on a
pillar in the temple of Amphiaraus l.
Quitting Kalamo at 1.40, and descending over
the hills by a bad road, we arrive, at 2, at the
great Charadra, or torrent, which I observed from
the summit of Mount Parnes, and which is said to
contain water all the year. The place is called
Mavro-dhilissi 2, to distinguish it from another Dhi-
lissi beyond 'Oropo ; and there was probably once
a village of that name, but no habitations now exist,
though the sides of the hills are well cultivated ; a
mile below, the torrent taking a great turn to the
1  eTiteV BESbxBai yijv Kal /caret BaXarrav /cat r
Tui Sripio OivbipiXov <bi(Xwv)og aXXa irdvra baairEp /cat rolg
Kp^ra Trpbi,Evov Elvat Kal evtp- aXXoic irpo^kvoig Kal EVEpykraig-
ykryv rrjg irbXEiag 'Optiiirloiv Kal aVaypd\^at Bk toBe to ifyiityiapa
avrov /cat EKyovovg Kal Elvai kv aryXy XtBLvy /cat arrjaai kv
avrip yyg Kal o'iKlag iiyKryatv rtj) t£p«/T tov 'Apipiapdov.
Kal dotydXEiav Kal davXlav Kal 2 Mai/po-AJ;Xio-<ri.
iroXkpov Kal ttp/;i/>)s /cat Kara

XVIII. J ATTICA. 441
right, enters the northern plain of Kalamo, and there
joins the sea. There are many ancient remains at
Mavro-dhilissi, particularly the foundations of walls
on the steep slope of the hills on either side of the
ravine, which seem to have been intended only for
supporting terraces, some of those on the slope of
the northern hill being traceable parallel to each
other at small distances. A more explanatory relic
of antiquity, however, has been lately brought to
light by the rains, and is now lying near some
ancient foundations. It is part of a cornice of
some great building, formed of white marble,
and inscribed with the letters AEI in large cha
racters of the best times, deeply engraved, and
at a great distance asunder. Another and larger
portion of the same cornice was not long since
carried to Kalamo, to be used in the new build
ings where I saw it. The latter is inscribed with
the letters T02AM4>I. From this evidence of
the practice of resorting to Mavrodhilissi for the
materials of the buildings which have lately
been erected at Kalamo, there can be little doubt
that the inscribed marble, now at Kalamo, which
records the favours granted to CEnophilus, was
brought from Mavro-dhilissi, as well as another
which has been carried from Kalamo to Athens,
and which, like the former, appears to have been
anciently deposited in the temple of Amphiaraus.
The AM<M on the cornice at Kalamo, may be a
part of the name Amphiaraus, and all the three
monuments, therefore, concur in proving this place
to be the site of the Amphiaraeium, which having
stood near Psaphis, between Rhamnus and Oropus

442 ATTICA. [chap.
on the road from Athens to the latter place, and
not far from the sea ', agrees in position with
Mavro-dhilissi. As the words of Strabo imply only
that the temple was near, and not at Psaphis, and
as Kalamo stands in a situation which the ancients
are likely to have occupied, it is very probably the
site of that Attic demus. for such Psaphis became,
although originally, as it would seem from Strabo,
it was a dependency of Oropus, and consequently
a part of the Boeotian community 2.
At 2.30, I begin to descend from Mavro-dhilissi
through a gorge in the hills by a gradual slope,
and in a few minutes perceive the village of Mar-
kopulo on the left, in a loft}* situation, and distant
about as far from the left bank of the torrent of
Mavro-dhilissi, as Kalamo is from the right. At
2.53 enter a plain which extends along the shore
as far as the mouth of the Asopus, and immediately
afterwards cross another great rema, now dry. At
3.3 pass a third torrent of the same kind, not far
to the right of a range of cultivated hills, which are
a continuation of Mavronoro. At 3.2 1 arrive at " the
Holy Apostles *,'" so called from a ruined church,
1 Ei-a 'Bapvovg, ottov to rijg Kal rb 'ApQiapaEiov kari teti-
~Ssf.ti(TEu>g lEpoV Elra ¥aij>ig i) fiyfikvov ttote pavTEiov, etc. —
t&v 'Qoonrioiv' kvravBa Sk irov Strabo, p. 399.
. . . . . eit eot' 'Qpbiirbg — bXic
Kat Tije BaXarryg dirkxov lepbv oil nvXv
'Eot' 'Apipiapdov cat vE&g cat to rkpEvog. Dicasarch. v. So.
* For further remarks on the the Royal Society of Literature,
temple of Amphiaraus and vol. 1, p. 200, and at the end.
Psaphis, see On the Demi of s arovg dyiovc 'AttootoXovc.
Attica, in the Transactions of

XVIII. J ATTICA. 443
near which is a hut with some gardens and wells,
situated on the sea side, in the centre of a bay in
cluded between two low projecting points about two
miles asunder. Here are some remains of a Hellenic
wall just within the sea, apparently an ancient
jetty, and in the church a fragment of a small
Doric column.
Opposite to Apostolus, on the shore of Euboea, is
Kastri, the site of Eretria, which celebrated city
stood on a projection of the coast, at the south
western extremity of a great plain extending inland
between two high mountains, and containing the
village of Ghymno. At the opposite corner of the
plain is Vathy, a small village near the shore. The
entire circuit of the ruined walls and towers of the
Acropolis of Eretria, still subsist on a rocky height,
which is separated from the shore by a marshy
plain. At the foot of the hill are remains of the
theatre, and in the plain a large portion of the
town walls, with many foundations of buildings in
the inclosed space. The situation was defended
to the west by a river, and on the opposite side
by a marsh.
Above Apostolus rises an insulated hill, having
a small conical termination on the further part of
the summit, where I find some foundations of
ancient walls, amidst a heap of rough stones.
They seem to be the remains of a small fortress
or watch-tower. The monastery of Ambighi is
seen from hence, pleasantly situated in a wood on
the mountain side, at about one third ofthe distance
from Markopulo to 'Oropo. Markopulo, as well
as Apostolus, belongs to Rashid Bey of 'Egripo.
13

444 ATTICA. [chap.
At the foot of the same height on the western side,
and not far from Apostolus, a ruined chapel con
tains a sepulchral stone inscribed with the name
TipavSplSyg, in neat and antique characters. In a
little rema at the foot of the height, nearer the sea,
are some ancient squared blocks of stone.
Leaving the foot of this hill at 4.5, and crossing
the plain at no great distance from the right bank
of the Asopus, we arrive at 4.37 at 'Oropo \ This
village, which contains about thirty houses, with a
pyrgo and kiosk of the Turkish Spahi, stands on
the lower heights of the ridge of Markopulo, above
some gardens containing a few olive and fig-trees,
which extend to the Asopus. The hills above the
village are partly clothed with pines : their highest
summit, which is at no great distance to the south
ward, is called Karakaxa. The plain of 'Oropo
extends along the sea shore from Apostolus to the
village of Alikuki 2, a distance of about three miles,
and narrow-s from its maritime base, until it ends
in the angle, not quite so distant from the sea,
where 'Oropo and Sykamino are separated from
each other only by the Asopus.
A summit on the south-eastern side of 'Oropo
has the appearance of an Acropolis ; no remains of
walls are to be seen, but at the foot of the hill
several ancient sepulchres were uncovered by the
floods of last October, when among other usual
contents of Greek tombs, were found many heads
of spears and lances made of brass, some of which
I purchase from the people of the village. These
1 'Qipbiirbg. ' 'AXikovki.

XVIII. J ATTICA. 445
remains of antiquity, added to the preservation of
the ancient name without any corruption, cannot
leave much doubt as to the position of the city,
notwithstanding that they are in contradiction to
some authorities, from which Oropus would
seem to have stood on the sea coast. Strabo, con
tinuing his route along the coast from south to
north, notices next to the Amphiaraeium the sacred
port of Delphinium, and twenty stades beyond it
Oropus, then Delium. Opposite to Delphinium
was Old Eretria in Eubcea, and, opposite to Oropus,
New Eretria : the passage across the strait in the
former situation was sixty stades, in the latter forty1.
As the mouth of the Asopus makes a projection in
the coast, and narrows the strait between it and
Kastri, from whence the shore of Euboea retires
in an easterly direction to Vathy, leaving the
respective breadths of the channel from the mouth
of the Asopus to those two places, nearly as Strabo
has indicated, his description leads directly to the
conclusion that Oropus was at or near the mouth
of the Asopus, New Eretria at Kastri, Delphinium
at Apostolus, and Old Eretria at Vathy or there
abouts ; and this maritime position of Oropus is
1 'E%rjg Sk rr)v irEpir)yyaiv rijg kv e'ikooi araBioig' Kara Sk rov-
X&pag (sc. Boeotiae) iroiyrkov, rbv kanv r) vvv 'Epkrpia' Bid-
dpifipkvovg dwb rrjg irpbg Ev- irXovg B' kir avrrjv araBtoi tit-
(ioiav irapaXlag rijg avvEXovg rrj rapaKovra. Elra AtjXiov to 'tEpbv
'ArrtKy. 'Apxn S' 6 'Qipuiirbg, tov ' AirbXXwvog ek AtiXov d<pi-
Kal 6 hpbg Xiprjv, bv KaXovat BpEvpkvov, Tavaypaliov iroXlx-
AeX^'iviov, KaB' bv r) iraXaid viov, AvXiSog cStE^ov araSiovg
'Epkrpia kv ry Evflola, SidirXovv rpiaKOvra' birov paxy Xek/iBev-
ixovaa ii,i]KovTa araBiiiiv. Mtra rsg 'AByvaloi, &c. — Strabo, p.
Be to AsXipivibv kanv b 'dpioirog 403.

446 ATTICA . [chap.
confirmed by other authorities. Pausanias describes
it as being kiri OaXdaayg x, and we learn from Dio
dorus that in the year B.C. 402, the Thebans, who
had taken it from the Athenians in the twentieth
winter of the Peloponnesian war 2, removed the in
habitants, in consequence of a sedition, to a dis
tance of seven stades from the sea 3. Perhaps this
latter fact may lead to an explanation of the diffi
culty. As the removal was evidently made for the
purpose of placing the town out of the reach of the
Athenian ships, an opposite motive may have in
duced the Athenians to make it a maritime town
when it was in their possession. 'Oropo, there
fore, I conceive to have been the site of the ori
ginal Boeotian city, as well as that to which the
Thebans removed the Oropii, though it must be
admitted that the distance is greater than the seven
stades of Diodorus ; and here they probably re
mained for a long time, even after the cession of
Oropus to the Athenians by Philip *, and the de
struction of Thebes by Alexander, for Dicaear
chus, after the restoration of that city by Cas
sander, still describes Oropus as belonging to, or
as being a colony of Thebes 5, although he describes
the Oropii as Athenian Boeotians, an expression
which he applies also to the Plataeenses 6. As to the
£7rt OaXdaayg of Pausanias, there seems no mode of
accounting for it, but by the supposition that the
Oropii had, in his time, again removed to the sea.
1 Pausan. Attic, c. 34. 5 ot/ct'a (al. aVoucta) Q-qji&v.
2 Thucyd. 1. 8, c. 60. — Dicaearch. p. 12.
3 Diodor. 1. 14, c. 17. 6 'ABnva'ioi Botaz-ot. — p. 12,
1 Pausan. ubi supra. 14.

XVI1I.J

ATTICA.

447

They then occupied, perhaps, the site of Delphi
nium at Apostolus, for it is remarkable that Pau
sanias makes no mention of Delphinium, and his
distance of twelve stades from Oropus to the Am-
phiaraeium, though still much within the real dis
tance from Apostolus to Mavro-dhilissi, will at least
be fifteen stades nearer the truth, than if the
Oropus of his time had been at 'Oropo.
There are several ruined churches at 'Oropo
which show that it was once a Christian town of
some importance. One of them contains a broken
marble inscribed with portions of three decrees of
Proxenia by the people of Tanagra; one of the
foreigners is of Chalcis, the native city of the two
others is not preserved1. The inscription is valu
able from being, like those of Orchomenus, in the
.ZEolic or Bceotic dialect ; but there is some diffi
culty in accounting for its being found here, for
1  g dpxovrog, 'OpoXwiui TpiaKr\SEKarr\, ETrE\pd(j>iBcE I 
 oiippavSpog AapoKXElog eXe^e' SeSoxBt) tv Bdfiv irpb^E-
(vov ElpEV Krj)EVEpykrav rag irbXwg TavaypEiiov Aioykvyv'lapoKXEwg . . .
 (avp/bv /ci) kaybviog Krj EipEV aiirxig yag Kr) FvKiag 'kirira-
(aiv Kr) FiaoTE)Xlav Kr) datpdXEiav Kr) daovXiav Kr) iroXkfiio Kr) ipdvag
(luiaag Kr) Kar)d yav Kr) Kara BdXarrav, KaBdirEp Kr) rvg dXXvg irpo-
{i,kvvg kt) Ev)Epyiryg. Ay aBapx0
'ApivoKXEiog apxovrog,
EirE\pd<j>iBSE 'Opaip
eXe^e' BsBoxBy tv S
Tag irbXwg Tavaypt
XaX/acieta avrov Krj ka-
Kiag kiriraaiv Kr) Piao
Kr) Kard yav Kr) /caret 6
luiaag Kr) raXXa
vvg Kri EVEp V. Inscription No. 60.

448 ATTICA. [chap.
Tanagra could not have been less than four miles
distant from hence, and the Bceotic dialect was
probably not employed at Oropus, unless in the
ages prior to its dependence upon Attica. The
inscriptions found at Mavro-dhilissi, which was in
the Oropia, are in Hellenic, and three tombstones
at 'Oropo bearing names, have the father's in the
possessive case, which was the Attic method, and
not the usual Boeotian form1. It is observable, how
ever, that they have not the name of the demus,
which favours the supposition, that Oropus never
was an Attic demus. The probability is, that the
Tanagraean decree, which is on a thin slab of
white marble, and lies in a ruined church, unat
tached to the building, was brought to 'Oropo
from the deserted site of Tanagra, for the purpose
of preserving it, as the Greeks are often in the
habit of doing when they find inscribed marbles2.
Having crossed the Asopus, we arrive in fifteen
minutes at Sykamino, which is now smaller than
'Oropo, and does not possess so many zevgaria,
though three ruined churches, and some modern
remains upon the hill above the village, show that
it was once a place of greater magnitude than it is
at present. It stands exactly at the opening of the
ravine through which the Asopus finds its way from
the plai 1 of Tanagra. The channel of the river is
now quite dry : the modern name, which in the
interior is Vuriemi, is here pronounced Vuriendi.
In one of the churches is still preserved the sepul-
1 V. Inscriptions Nos. 62, phe bears N. 2&| E. by com-
f>3, 64. pass, and the ruins of Eretria
2 From Oropo. Mount Dir- N. 33 E.

XVIII. J BC30TIA. 449
chral inscription in memory of Aphrodisius, son
of Zoilus, of Oropus1, which was published by
Spon. Jan. 31. — Having sent my baggage horses to
Skimatari by a road which leads by 'Inia and the
left bank ofthe Asopus, I follow the 'Egripo road,
at 8.23, in search of Delium, and cross the hills
extending from Sykamino to the sea. These are
partly in cultivation, and partly consist of a forest
of pines, among which there is some good pasture ;
for some time our road lies in a line parallel to the
shore at the distance of about a mile, but at length,
at 9.15, descends upon the sea-beach. In three
minutes more, after passing a ruined church in
which are some ancient fragments, we again leave
the sea-side and enter a small plain, which is about
a mile in width at the water-side, and narrows from
thence to Dhilissi2, situated at its southern ex
tremity, where I arrive at 9.25. The village con
sists only of five or six houses and a roofless chapel,
where are some Hellenic fragments and squared
stones, a large bowl made of stone, 2 feet ] inch in
diameter, 4 inches thick, 9 inches high, pierced
with a hole in the centre, and on the outside cut
into furrows. In a field below the chapel there is
a large wrought stone of five sides, or rather qua
drilateral, with one angle cut off. There is no
water here, and the village is supplied from wells
near the sea-shore.
Delium is described by Strabo as a temple of
Apollo, and a small town of the Tanagraei, thirty
' V. Inscription No. 61. 2 AriXiaai.
VOL. II. G g

450 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
stades distant from Aulis1. It is celebrated for
having witnessed the defeat of both the most illus
trious people of antiquity. That of the Romans
by a part of the army of Antiochus I have already
had occasion to refer to. In the eighth year of
the Peloponnesian war, the Athenians formed a
design against Bceotia, which was to be exe
cuted in the beginning of the winter by simul
taneous operations at the two extremities of
that province. On the Phocic frontier a revolt
in the cities of Siphae and Chaeroneia was to
be supported by a landing at Siphae of Acar-
nanian auxiliaries from the Athenian fleet, which
was at Naupactus, under the command of Demos
thenes, while the Athenians from the Attic frontier
were to seize and fortify Delium. The Boeotians,
however, obtained notice of the design, Demos
thenes failed at Siphae, and the Boeotians had time
to place garrisons in the disaffected places on the
Phocic frontier, and to return to Tanagra before
the Athenians had been more than three days at
Delium. During that time Hippocrates, the Athe
nian commander, had fortified the consecrated
ground at Delium, after which his army encamped
among the hills between Delium and Oropus, at a
distance of ten stades from the former. The Boeo
tians consisted of 7000 hoplitae, 10,000 light-armed,
500 peltastae, and 1000 cavalry. The Athenians
had about the same force of hoplitae, and were well
provided with cavalry, but they had no light troops,
except some followers of the regulars, indifferently
1 Strabo, p. 403.

XVIII.] BCEOTIA. 451
armed, the greater part of whom, as soon as the
fortifications were finished and the army in posi
tion, returned to Athens.
It was towards evening when Pagondas of
Thebes, the Boeotian commander, advanced from
Tanagra. Hippocrates, who happened to be at
Delium, joined his camp as soon as he heard of the
enemy's approach, leaving 300 horsemen to pro
tect the fortress and to act during the battle ac
cording to circumstances. The two armies were
separated by a hill and unseen to each other, until
Pagondas, crossing the ridge, advanced in quick
time, and was met in like manner by the Athe
nians. The extremities of either line were pre
vented from encountering by certain ravines, but
in the centre there was close fighting. The Athe
nians overthrew the left of their opponents' centre,
where the Thespienses were the chief sufferers, but
on their own left were obliged to give way before
the Thebans, whose phalanx was twenty-five file in
depth, while that of the Athenians had a depth of
only eight. Pagondas at this moment sent to the
relief of his left a body of cavalry which, appearing
suddenly from behind the hill, made the Athenians
suppose that the enemy had received a reinforce
ment, and caused them, though victorious in that
part of the line, to retreat just about the time that
theThebans had broken the adverse phalanx ; a com
plete defeat of the Athenians was the consequence,
and it would have been still more disastrous had
not Pagondas on the approach of night withdrawn
his forces to Tanagra. Some of the Athenians
reached Delium, others Oropus, and others the
g g 2

452 BCEOTIA. [chap.
heights of Parnes, after having suffered greatly
from the Boeotian cavalry, and from some Locri
who had just arrived to the assistance of the Boeo
tians. To the request of the Athenians for per
mission to inter their dead, Pagondas replied, that
if the dead were in Boeotia, the Athenians might
carry them away on quitting the Boeotian territory,
but that if they were on the Athenian territory, it
was for themselves to act as they thought proper ;
by this answer implying, that the cession of the
Oropia was to be the condition of compliance with
their request, Oropia being a Boeotian district
which had been conquered by the Athenians. It
shows that the boundary of the Oropia and Tana
grice was less than ten stades to the eastward of
Delium. On the seventeenth day after the battle,
Pasrondas took the fortress which the Athenians
had constructed at Delium. The description of it
by Thucydides gives a good idea of a Greek field-
work, and the mode in which it was destroyed by
the enemy is not less curious. In fortifying the
place, the Athenians first excavated a trench round
the consecrated ground containing together with
the temple, the portico of which was in ruins, a well,
or source of water. Having thrown the earth of the
ditch outwards, they drove a circle of piles along the
edge of the ditch, and then filled the interval be-
tween the piles and the embankment with mixed
materials composed of earth, of vines which grew
around the temple, and of some ruined buildings.
On the summit of the wall thus constructed they aS
erected wooden towers. It was not until the Boeo
tians had been reinforced from Corinth and Megara
13

XVIII. J BCEOTIA. 453
and by the Peloponnesian garrison which the Athe
nians had recently driven out of Nisaea, as well as
by some archers and slingers from the towns of the
Maliac Gulf, that they ventured to return from
Tanagra to Delium in order to attack the fortress.
After several attempts they succeeded in setting
fire to the combustible materials of the walls.
Their engine for this purpose was nothing more
than a hollow mast or trunk of a tree, to one
end of which was adjusted a cauldron filled with
charcoal, sulphur, and pitch, and to the other a
pair of bellows, for the purpose of raising the fire
as soon as the cauldron was brought in contact
with the rampart 1. The machine having been con
veyed to the fortress upon carts, the conflagration
of the wood and vine branches soon obliged the
garrison to abandon the walls. Some of them
were slain, 200 were made prisoners, the remain
der escaped to their ships and to Athens 2.
The facility with which the Athenians retreated
to their vessels renders it probable that Delium
was situated not at the modern village, but on the
sea-shore, where alone wells are now found cor
responding to the " water at the temple" men
tioned by Thucydides. But Livy is decisive on this
point. His words are, Templum est Apollinis
Delium imminens mari ; quinque millia passuum
a Tanagra abest ; minus quatuor millium inde in
proxima Eubceae est mari trajectus 3. The Upov,
1 This kind of engine was 2 Thucyd. 1. 4, c. 76, 77.
improved in later times, and 89, et seq.
the KEpala, or pipe was made of 3 Liv. 1. 35, c. 51 .
iron. Apollod. Poliorc. p. 20.
Paris.

454

BCEOTIA.

[chap.

therefore, with its consecrated ground and sur
rounding vineyards, was near the shore, and the
noXi^viov, or small town of Delium, at the modern
village of Dhilissi \
Having ascended a narrow but well cultivated
valley from Dhilissi, I arrive in thirty-five minutes
at a source of water and a reservoir, from whence
the remains of an aqueduct are traceable in the
direction of Dhilissi. A road to Dhramisi, Vathy,
and 'Egripo turns off at the reservoir to the right.
Soon afterwards we enter an open country well
cultivated, and in twenty-seven minutes enter the

Site of Tanagra
at
Grimadhi.

1 From Dhilissi, Eretria bears N. 70 E., Mount Dirphe
N. 39 E., Fyla N. 15 E.

XVIII. J BCEOTIA. 455
village of Skimatari. Three miles to the south
ward of it is Grimadha or Grimala, once perhaps
the name of a modern village, but now attached only
to the ruins of a Hellenic city which was certainly
Tanagra, and which seems to preserve some
traces of its Homeric name Tpaia l, in the present
appellation2. Tanagra was advantageously situ
ated in the center of a fertile champaign, consist
ing of plains and undulated ground included be
tween Mount Parnes and the Euhoic frith, and
extending in the other direction from the Thebaea
to the Oropia. Standing at the eastern extremity
of the ridge of Mount Soro, and not far from the
root of Mount Parnes, which stretches to Delium
and Oropus, it was placed exactly in the point of
communication between the plains at the foot of
Parnes and those towards Aulis and the sea. The
town was near two miles in circumference, of an
irregular form, determined by the nature of the
ground, which consists of a height commanded by
the eastern extremity of the ridge of Soro, at the
distance of about a mile above the junction of the
Vuriemi or Asopus with a rivulet named Lari, which
we crossed midway from Skimatari. The upper
angle of the site is rocky and abrupt, and looks
down on a natural terrace, below which stood the

1 There were different opi- ment of the identity. Tana
nions among the ancients as to seems to be an iEolic prefix,
the situation of Graea. Aris- of which the import is yet to
totle supposed it to have been be discovered. Vide Stephan.
Oropus, but the name itself of in ToVaypa.
Tanagra, sometimes written 2 TpipdSa, YpipdXa.
Tanagrsea, is a strong argu-

456 BCEOTIA. [chap.
body of the town on a broad level raised a little
above the third or lowest plain which reaches to
the two rivers, and has a breadth varying from
three to five hundred yards. The town walls fol
lowed the crest of the height and the last falls of
the ground above the plain. No acropolis is dis
tinguishable, though probably there was some
interior inclosure at the upper angle. About one
hundred yards below the summit are ruins of a
theatre excavated in the bank which separates the
highest point from the terrace immediately below
it. Its diameter is between three and four hun
dred feet. A part of the masonry which supported
the two ends of the cavea remains, but neither
seats nor proscenium are visible, nor any vestiges
of the stoa which Pausanias describes as attached
to the theatre of Tanagra. On the terrace below
the theatre, to the north-east of it, are the well-con
structed foundations of a public building, formed
of marble of a very dark colour, with a green
cast. The city walls, which are of ordinary lime
stone, are a mere heap of ruins, though they are
traceable in the whole periphery, as well as many
of the towers. The masonry is almost regular,
and as usual is faced only with wrought stones,
the center being filled with rubble.
On the left bank of the Asopus, a little above
its junction with the Lari, stands a mill which is
turned by derivations from both the rivers, and op
posite to their junction, not far from the right bank
of the Asopus, is one of the high towers which I
have before alluded to, as not unfrequent in Boeotia,
and as having been built probably by the Franks.

XVIII. J BCEOTIA. 457
This tower has since been converted into a Greek
church, in which are lying several fluted Doric
shafts covered with a coat of stucco, and a large
rectangular block of the same kind of black mar
ble as that which was used in the great building
in the city. Inscribed on it, in characters of
ancient date, is the name H2XINAS, the Bceotic
form of Aio-yJv7)c.
In the wall on the outside of the tower is ano
ther inscribed marble, but not of the dark kind.
The inscription begins with an epigram in two
elegiac couplets, showing that the stone supported
a statue dedicated by one Phorystas, son of Triax,
who had obtained a victory in the games of Jupi
ter, and who, upon several other occasions, had
been the first in the foot race \ Below the verses,
which are in common Hellenic, is a decree of
Proxenia, in Bceotic, by the people of Tanagra, in
favour of one Dioscorides of Athens ; the form is
exactly similar to that of the Tanagraean decrees at

1 E'lKova ttivB" dvkS'yKE Qopvarag iralg 6 TpiaKog,
Kr\pvl, viKrfaag KaXbv dy&va Aibg'
aXXovg r dSrXotybpovg irravolg iroalv EiXov dy&vag,
EvbXjiov Be irdrpag aarv KaXbv aT£tj>av&.
Kaipialag kiroEiaE.
pui apxovrog, psivog voig, Kr) EipEV aiirvg yag Kr)
' liriroBpopim irporpiaKaBi, Eire- Fv\_Kiag £irira~\aiv Kr) FiaoTEXtav
xpdijiiSSE - og M.vdawvog, Kr) daipdXsiav Kr) daovXiav Kr)
'ASdvixog AuipoSioi e'Xe^e" Be- troXipui \jcr) ipdvag lii]aag, Kr)
Bbx$y tv Sdpv [irpbH,EV~\ov EipEV Kara yav Kr) Kara SaXarrav, Kr)
kt) EVEpykrav rag TroXiog Tava- rctXXa irdvra \biroTTa Kr) rujc
ypEiiov Aiovo-icopicia[vJ - - a dXXvg Trpo$,kvv[g\, — V. Inscrip-
'A^aJvEtoy, avrov kij Etryd- tion, No. 70.

458 BCEOTIA. [chap.
'Oropo. There is no apparent connection of sub
ject between the epigram and the decree, and it is
difficult to understand how they came to be on the
same stone. But that the verses should be in
Hellenic and the decree in Bceotic is not surprising,
even if we suppose them to be contemporary, since
Pindar preferred the Doric to his own native dia
lect, and poets claimed the privilege as early
as the time of Homer, of using any dialect or all
of them at once. Diplomacy on the other hand,
appears to have preserved the local forms in many
parts of Greece, even after the period when they
ceased to be in common use. We find in the
first inscription, that while the poet wrote in Hel
lenic, the maker of the statue recorded his name
in Bceotic by the words Kafiotac. kTrosiaE.
In the Augustan age Tanagra and Thespiae
were the principal towns of Bceotia, and were
larger, or at least more populous, than Thebes '.
In the time of the Antonines Thebes seems to
have recovered a little, but Tanagra still pos
sessed the lands of Aulis, Harma, and Mycales
sus 2. Pausanias praises the Tanagraei for having
placed their sacred buildings in a place entirely
separated from, and unmixed with, the houses of
the town 3, whence it would seem that all the tem
ples mentioned by him were on the height near
the theatre, where, unincumbered by any ordinary
buildings, they were seen undoubtedly to great ad
vantage. The principal temple was that of Bac-
1 Strabo, pp. 403, 410. 3 Ibid. c. 22.
2 Pausan. Bceot. c. 19.

XVIII.] BCEOTIA. 459
chus, which contained a statue in Parian marble
by Calamis, and the figure of a headless triton.
Near it were temples of Themis, of Venus, and of
Apollo, in which last Diana and Latona were also
honoured. All these buildings may have stood
on the platform which still exists. There were
two temples of Mercury, in one of which
he was surnamed Criophorus, in the other Pro-
machus : in the former he was represented in
a statue made by Calamis as bearing a ram on
his shoulders. The latter temple was near the
theatre, and probably near the gymnasium also,
the surname having been derived from a fable of
the Tanagraei, according to which Mercury had
led them to victory against the Eretrienses, march
ing at the head of the ephebi, armed only with
a strigil. The same gymnasium contained a pic
ture of Corinna with the band of victory on her
head, and represented as so beautiful that Pausa
nias is disposed to attribute her success over Pin
dar to this cause, not less than to the iEolic dia
lect of her verses, which had an advantage over
the Doric of her great rival in being more intelli
gible to her hearers. There was also a monument
of Corinna in a conspicuous part of the city \ At
a place called Poloson was the observatory of Atlas,
and on Mount Cerycium, in which mountain the Ta
nagraei reported that Mercury was born, was the tomb
of Orion. If we are to take literally the assertion of
Pausanias, that these two pi aces were ' ' in Tanagra, ' '
it would follow that Mount Cerycium was no other
than the height above the theatre, and perhaps that
1 kv ir£pt<pavE~t rijg iroXEWg.

460 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
Cerycium was the name of the Acropolis, and that
the temple of Hermes Promachus stood on the hill,
on which he was reported to have been born ; but
it is very possible that by kv Tavdypa Pausanias
meant the district of Tanagra, and that Cerycium
was the entire mountain stretching westward from
Grimadha. At the time when Thebes had recently been
restored by Cassander, and its desert inclosure
laid out in streets, Dicaearchus described Tanagra
in the following terms : " The road from Oropus
to Tanagra leads for thirty stades through a coun
try covered with olive plantations and forest trees,
where the traveller is free from any apprehension
of robbers. The city stands on a rugged and com
manding height, and has a white argillaceous ap
pearance. ! The houses are remarked for their
handsome porticoes, and encaustic paintings. The
country abounds less in corn than in wine, which
is the best in Bceotia." He then commends the
inhabitants, who .were all landholders, for a fru
gality void of avarice, for justice, good faith, hos
pitality and charity ; and adds, that Tanagra was
the safest and most agreeable residence in Bceotia
for a stranger2.
The river Lari, although only a small brook, is
1 rpa^Eta pkv /cat pErktopog, 2 From the summit of the
XEVKr) Be rrj kiri<j>av£la /cat a'pytX- walls of Tanagra, Mount Dirphe
XwByg. Dicsearch. fiiog 'EXXci- bears N. 47 E., its angle with
Bog,]). 12. The author probably Khtypa 57.25, with Parnes
alludes to the contrast of Ta- 108.40.
nagra with the dark appearance
of Thebes, which he says was
rrj xP"a pEXdyyEtog, p. 14.

XV1II.J BCEOTIA. 461
said not to fail in summer. It receives a con
siderable contribution from some springs, which
issue from the rocks, on its banks just below the
city. No notice occurs of this stream in ancient
history, and it seems not unlikely that it still pre
serves its ancient name.
From Grimadha to the foot of Mount Parnes,
and to the slope which conducts to the Pass of
St. Mercurius, extends a plain, which is covered
with pines towards the foot of Parnes, and in the
other parts is fertile, and well cultivated. Low
pines and brushwood cover the part of Mount
Soro, near Grimadha. The place where the Asopus
issues from the rocky ravine, which I have before de
scribed as separating the Parasopia from the Tana
grice, is not far above Tanagra : the summit of
Cithaeron appears through the gorge ; just below
the exit the river is joined by a deep rema from
Mount Parnes, and in the angle formed by the
junction stands the hamlet of Latani, iii a lofty
situation. This gorge of the Asopus being exactly
in the direction of Scolus and Plataea, Dicasarchus
has correctly described the road from Tanagra to
Plataea, as having been in some degree desert and
stony, and as having passed near Cithaeron. His
remark that it was not very dangerous, alludes
probably to the robbers who appear to have fre
quented Cithaeron from that time to the present1.
On the edge of the hills which stretch along the
sea-coast, and meeting a branch of Parnes,
bound the plain to the eastward, are seen near
1 See p. 378 of this volume. textual error; the distance not
The a, or 200 stades from Ta- being so great.
nagra to Platfea, is perhaps a

462 BCEOTIA. [chap.
the left bank of the Asopus the village and
tower of 'Inia, or Staniates, at the entrance of the
lower gorges which separated the Tanagrice from
the Oropia, and through which the river flows to
Sykamino. Further on, towards St. Mercurius,
is the hamlet of Buiati2. The champaign country
around Tanagra extends beyond Skimatari, as far
as the range of Khtypa and Siamata, and commu
nicates in the direction of Vasiliko, in Euboea,
with a descent into a lower maritime plain, in
which are Dhramisi, Vathy, and the great port
of Aulis.
The Tanagrice having been near the frontier of
Attica and Bceotia, was frequently the scene of
contention between the two rival people, or their
allies. Besides the battle of Delium, there were
two other celebrated actions fought in this district
twenty-five years before the beginning of the Pelo
ponnesian war, and with an interval of only two
months between them 2. In the first, the Athe
nians, with their allies, who were chiefly of Argos,
and amounted in all to 14,000, were opposed to a
somewhat smaller force of confederates, headed by
Pleistoanax and his tutor Nicomedes, who in re
turning home with 1,500 Spartans from Doris, where,
in union with a large army of allies, they had been
defending their kinsmen, the Dorians, against the
Phocians, were afraid of attempting a passage
through the Megaris, which was in possession ofthe
Athenians, and diverged therefore into the territory
of Tanagra. They were victorious on this occa
sion, in consequence of the treachery of a body of
1 M7rovytctrt.
2 Thucyd. 1. 1, c. 107, 108. Diodor. 1. 11, c. 79, et seq.

XVIII. J BCEOTIA. 463
Thessalian cavalry, who turned against the Athe
nians during the battle. The scene of action was
probably the plain between Tanagra and the foot
of Parnes, across which mountain the Athenians
received their supplies. Diodorus relates, that
there were two actions : that the Thessalians who
deserted in the first, attacked on the same night
a convoy of the Athenians, which brought on the
second general conflict ; that the latter was of
doubtful event, and that it was followed by a truce
of four months.
Sixty-two days after the battle of Tanagra, as it
was usually called, Myronides of Athens, who had
in the preceding year been twice successful inbattle
with the Corinthians in the Megaris, obtained a
third victory over the Boeotians atCEnophytae, which
was of much greater importance than the former, as
he followed it up by razing the walls of Tanagra ;
from whence he led his victorious forces to Thebes,
and through Bceotia to the frontiers of Phocis and
Locris, receiving the submission of many Boeotian
and Phocic cities \ and taking hostages from the
Opontii of Locris. As we cannot doubt from
the circumstances of the event, that CEnophytae
was in the Tanagrice, not far from the Attic
frontier, the name further shows that it was the
place where the wine was chiefly produced, for
which the Tanagrice was renowned. It is by no
means unlikely that the modern 'Inia, written
O'lvia, is a corruption of OtvoipvTai : it stands, as I
have already remarked, in a commanding position
near the left bank of the Asopus, between Tanagra
1 Thucyd. ibid. Polycen. 1. 1, c. 35.

464 BCEOTIA. [chap.
and Oropus, or nearly in the situation where it is
probable from history, that the battle was fought.
Returning to Skimatari, I overtake a monk be
longing to a convent not far distant, who says that
he has always understood the ancient name of the
ruins at Grimadha to have been Tenagra, so he
pronounces it, quasi Talvaypa. In a tower a little
to the left of the road, which, like that near Gri
madha, has been converted into a church, I find
on a block of the same kind of black marble which
was employed in the principal building at Tanagra,
the name Hipparchia in very ancient characters,
the X being formed like an ordinary ^, and the
initial aspirate expressed by H. Another marble
has the name Biorroe. Several other sepulchral
stones, each with a name in the nominative, with
out either paternal or ethnic, are preserved in the
churches in or near Skimatari. There is one also
of a woman named Lais, in the dative preceded by
kwl. These two forms appear from a variety of ex
amples to have been the Boeotian mode of inscribing
names on tombstones, and to have been adhered to
at very distant periods of time; whereas, so near
as Oropus we find the name of the father added on
four sepulchral inscriptions at 'Oropo and Syka-
mino. In Attica the demus seems to have been
an indispensable adjunct. All the inscriptions at
Skimatari are on black marble, except one which
is not sepulchral, and on which I can distinguish
only the letters ONTANAITA. These letters, and
the marble of the other inscribed stones, render it
probable that they were all brought from Gri
madha, from which place, as it has been long
deserted, the neighbouring inhabitants have been

XVIII. J BCEOTIA. 465
accustomed to remove the' ancient inscribed or
sculptured stones, as they have been brought to
light by the rains or the plough, to the churches in
the surrounding country.
Feb. 1 . — From Skimatari to Andritza and Thebes :
the road follows the left bank of the Lari in a
direction parallel to the range of Soro. Besides
the sources which issue from the bank of this river
near Grimadha, there are others more copious,
which join it not far above the tower or church,
which I visited in returning from the ruins ; but
above the latter sources the Lari is nothing but a
dry torrent, and in most places the water-course is
even ploughed. We cross it, and a little afterwards,
at 8.20 (having set out at 7. 55), the village of Bratzi1
is at the foot of the mountain on the left. Soon after
wards we ascend the inferior hills of the range of
Soro, which border the plain on the west, and then
arrive in a deep yzlpappoc,, or torrent-bed, in a rich
soil, and which, though now dry, is occasionally
the principal feeder of the Lari. It receives others
from the northward, and flows at first to the east,
but afterwards turns to the southward, through the
plain of Bratzi and Skimatari. It is clearly not the
Thermodon. At 8.44 the hamlet of Kapandriti is on
the right, at the distance of a mile and a half : at
9.8 we arrive at Andritza, a village of ten or twelve
houses, forming what in the northern parts of Euro
pean Turkey is called a palanka, that is to say, a
quadrangle, having all the doors and windows of
1 M7rpcir£i.
VOL. II. H h

466 BCEOTIA. [chap.
the houses within, and a single gate ; thus the whole
constitutes a rude fortress. This village, though
little more than two miles distant from the road
from Thebes to 'Egripo, is entirely concealed from
it by a range of heights, which are distinguished
from the low undulating hills characteristic of this
part of Bceotia, by precipices of white rock, which
crown the summits.
On a part of these rocky heights, distant 6 or 7
minutes to the north-west of the village of An
dritza are found the remains of a small Hellenic
polis, or fortified come. The walls of the citadel are
traceable round the most precipitous part of one of
the rocky brows, which is about 140 yards long
and 40 broad ; and those of the town are in many
places visible, enclosing a slope to the south and
west of the acropolis, in which direction the site
was bounded by a small torrent, descending from
Mount Soro, and flowing into the plain eastward
of Mount Siamata, where it joins the torrent which
descends from the convent of Platanaki on that
mountain . The ruins of the ancient walls are most
considerable on the eastern side of the citadel,
where a projecting rock is occupied by a square
tower, and a similar piece of the wall adjoins it to
the northward. Here the remains are about 15
feet high.

XVHI.J BCEOTIA. 467
The masonry in the upper parts of the work
consisted for the most part of irregular polygons
joined with the utmost accuracy, but the basis is
formed of narrower and regular courses. Beyond
the torrent, where are some foundations, perhaps
those of a temple, the rains of last October have
uncovered an ancient pedestal, formed of a hand
some kind of breccia with a red cement, about
2 feet 9 inches square, and 1 foot 6 inches
high, divided in its mid-height by a mould
ing, and shaped at the top in the form of a tri
angle with a round hole in the middle, to which
a statue may have been attached, or perhaps a
tripod. There is no inscription, but on one side
below the moulding a large vase is represented
between an ox and a man, who is seated in a
chair with a sceptre in his right hand : the two
figures look inwards towards the vase. The style
and execution are indifferent. The vase and ox
may allude to the productions of the landed pro
perty of the seated figure, who was perhaps the
dedicator ofthe tripod.
Between the place where this monument is
lying and the S.W. angle of the acropolis, where
the rocks are highest, a copious fountain issues from
under them, and discharges itself by two spouts. A
small church stands just above it, and there are
several other churches on the hills around, but all
are in ruins except one near the village similar to
that at the fountain. On the western and highest
extremity of the hill stands a high square tower
in ruins, which I remarked in proceeding from
Thebes to 'Egripo ; it seems to be of the time of
h h 2

468 BCEOTIA. [chap.
the Franks. There are remains also of a repara
tion of the wall of the citadel, apparently of the
same date, on the crest of the rocks on the sou
thern side. This repair, as well as the churches,
show that the source of water and the fertile soil
of the surrounding plain had caused the place to
retain its inhabitants from Hellenic times to those
of the Lower Empire, or at least to be restored at
the latter period, although they have been unable
to save it from Turkish desolation. Only a small
portion of the surrounding soil is now cultivated.
It is only by negative arguments that any con
jecture can be formed of the ancient name of this
place. Its situation and small dimensions strongly
argue that it was one of the four Kupai of the
Tanagrice, which were Harma, Mycalessus, Eleon,
and Pharae 1. The two former having been on the
route from Thebes to Chalcis, could not have been
very near Andritza ; indeed the situations of them
both are tolerably well determined : and as Eleon
of the Tanagrice was so named from its marshes,
of which there is not the smallest appearance near
Andritza, these ruins may rather be ascribed to
Pharae, which, from Strabo and Stephanus, but
still more from an extant autonomous silver coin,
bearing on one side the Boeotian shield and on
the other a diota with the letters <1>A, appears to
have been a place of some importance, although
it was not among the Homeric towns of Bceotia,
unless, as some of the Boeotians thought, N/o-o-av
te laOiyv had been improperly substituted in the
1 Strabo, p. 405.

XVIII. J BCEOTIA. 469
catalogue for <bapde. Te ZaQkac, \ Of the other Boeo
tian towns named by the poet, Hyria and Eilesium
are the only two to which I have not yet adverted,
with an attempt to their identification. Strabo
says, or has been made to say, that in going from
Thebes to Argos, Hyria lay upon the right of the
road, and Tanagra on the left, which cannot be
true of the road from Thebes to Argos, nor indeed
of the road from Thebes to any other conceivable
place, if Hyria, as he asserts, was near Aulis2.
Either the text therefore is faulty, or the informa
tion of Strabo incorrect; and probably some of
the ancient critics were right in supposing that
Hyria was the same place as Hysiae. Eilesium
like Eleon, indicates, as Strabo remarks, a marshy
position, which is not easily found in the part of
Bceotia, where the names associated with it in the
catalogue would seem to place it.
At the foot of a height similar to that of An
dritza, and situated in the direction from thence
of Mount Soro, there is an ancient crypt, or
sepulchral cavern, of a semi-circular form, exca
vated in the rock. Conspicuous from Andritza
also is a summit of the range of Soro, towards
Tanagra, having a peak of naked rock which is
called Vigla, or the look-out. It is separated
from a higher summit towards Thebes by a nar
row pass which leads to Mustafadhes, and some
other small villages on the southern side of the
ridge. From this pass to the Psilirakhi inclusive,
extends a chain of summits, about the middle of
1 II. B. v. 508. 2 Strabo, p. 404.
VOL. II. 2 H 3 -I-

470 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
which is the highest point, or proper Soro. I
have in vain endeavoured to discover in history the
ancient name of these heights, which, though low,
compared with the surrounding mountains, are a
remarkable feature in the topography of the The-
baea, and of all eastern Bceotia. Soros being a
Hellenic word, the mountain may retain perhaps
its ancient name. Towards the north it is separated
by some hollows from a low parallel ridge stretch
ing from the rocky heights of Andritza in the
direction of the hill which advances into the plain
of Thebes towards the foot of Siamata, and which
I suppose to have been the site of Teumessus.
Andritza itself stands nearly opposite to a projec
tion of Mount Hypatus, a little westward of the
remains of Glisas, mentioned Dec. 21.
Ten minutes beyond Andritza, proceeding to
wards Thebes, at a ruined church of Aghia Paras-
kevi, or St. Friday !, I find a long block of black
marble, of the same kind as that of the founda
tions at Tanagra, and of which the monuments
at Skimatari are composed, as well as that in
the tower between that village and Grimadha.
On the marble are inscribed two lines of cha
racters of remote antiquity, rudely engraved, but
tolerably preserved. Two sides of the stone are
rough, as if broken, and one end of the inscription
is thus lost ; but enough remains to show that it
was simply a dedication to Bacchus by one 3_&-
chron, or iEschrondas 2, the name of whose father
1 'Ayia XlapaaKEvy. tian men, corresponding to the
2 wvSag was a common ter- Attic uivlByg.
mination in the names of Bceo-

XVIII. J BCEOTIA. 471
is imperfect1. The coincidence of the black mar
ble and the worship of Bacchus are sufficient
reasons for believing that the monument was
brought from Tanagra. The dialectic peculiarities
of AE and OE to express the Hellenic AI and QI
are unexampled in any Greek inscriptions I have
yet seen, and are the more remarkable as they have
nothing in common with the Bceotic, according
to the specimens of that dialect, which are afforded
by the inscriptions of Orchomenus, Tanagra, and
Lebadeia. From Aia Paraskevi, following the road to
Spakhidhes 2, we arrive, after crossing the hills for
seven minutes, at a source of water and a small
ruined church of the Panaghia, before which lies
a cubical stone 1 foot 7 inches in the side, hav
ing a rough moulding almost worn away by time
at the bottom, but in other respects quite plain.
The inscription is complete, and although it con
sists only of the name of a woman, Plaucha, pre
ceded by kiri, the letters are so large as to be
disposed in two lines, and are written in Boustro-
phedon, as appears from the final E, which faces
in the opposite direction to that of the former line.
Here again, as in the names HIIIIIAP^IA and
AES^RONDAS, the X is expressed by the * of
the Hellenic alphabet, and the Hellenic AI as in
the document containing the latter name, is repre
sented by AE 3. The two monuments, therefore,
1 AES^RONDASAEAIT . . 2 SiraxiSec
DIONYSOE 3 ELIinAAV
For the exact form of the let- _A*fr.
ters, see the lithograph copy, V. Inscription, No. 72.
Inscription, No. 71.

472 BCEOTIA. [chap.
both evidently of a remote antiquity, concur in
proving that there were dialectic forms employed
in Boeotia in early times different from those of
the middle period, when the Hellenic ai was con
verted into ij, as 'Ho-vjvac for Aio-yjvr/c, and the
dative masculine was converted into v, as TY
AAMY for TQI AHMQI, which in the earlier dia
lect would have been TOE AAMOE \
It is highly interesting to observe, that these
forms agree with those of the Latin language,
which is no more than natural, that language
having been, like the Boeotian itself, a branch of
the iEolic. I am not aware, indeed, that there
is any instance in Latin inscriptions of OE in the
termination of the dative masculine, but it may be
questioned whether there is any Latin inscription
extant so old as these monuments ofthe Tanagrrice;
and the final E may have been dropped in the Latin
dative at an early time, as occurred at a much later
period in the Greek, in regard to the final I.
There are some foundations of a Hellenic wall
at the fountain, and some other wrought stones
of large size, lying detached on the side of the
extremity of that low chain which is characterized
by its summit of white bare rocks. On the oppo
site side of the ridge, looking towards Mount Soro,
stands the village of Vlokho, less than a mile
distant, and consisting only of three or four
families. Here we join the road from Kalamo
1 An example of the use of ancient vase, on which other
AE instead of AI in Thessaly Greek names are inscribed, I
occurs in some very ancient have seen that of Croesus writ-
coins of Larissa, inscribed ten KROESOS.
AARISAEON, and on an

XVIII.J BCEOTIA. 473
to Thebes. Twelve minutes beyond Vlokho,
Spakhidhes is a mile on the right; 8 minutes
farther, in a narrow valley at the foot of Mount
Soro, we pass immediately under the principal
summit, and after another half mile diverge 10
minutes to the left of our route, to visit a spring,
called SouAAac, which gives name to an inferior
summit detached from Soro. Water distils from
the rocks, forms a pool in a small cavern, and is
no otherwise remarkable than as being useful to
the shepherds in this part of the mountain, where
water is scarce. From thence, at the end of a mile
and a half, we regain the road from Kalamo to
Thebes, on the low uncultivated slope of Mount
Soro, immediately opposite to the rocky insulated
height which I suppose to have been the site of
Teumessus. A little farther, at a ruined church
upon a height, are many ancient wrought stones,
and two handsome cisterns, of the usual bottle
shape, stuccoed within. These are on the left
of the road from 'Egripo to Thebes, at a mile
from the hill of Teumessus: a little beyond them,
on the left, is another cistern of the same kind ;
we then fall into the 'Egripo road, and arriving at
the wall of Thebes at 3.58, in 10 minutes make
half the tour of them before we enter the town.
Feb. 2. — We learn from Stephanus of Byzantium,
who quotes Theopompus, that there was a town in
Bceotia of the name of Chalia. That is was a polis
of some importance, and that the inhabitants wrote
themselves XAAEIEI2, and not XAAIOI as in the
words of Theopompus cited by Stephanus, is evi
dent from an inscription at Oxford, brought by
Dawkins from a place near the Asopus, which he

474 BCEOTIA. [chap.
called Vasiliko. I have inquired in vain for this
place, but I learn from a list of the villages of the
district of Thebes, that there are two named Khalia1
in the Parasopia. It was in that part of Boeotia,
therefore, that the marble was probably found by
Dawkins, and that the ancient Chalia was situated.
As Theopompus couples Chalia with Hyria, it is an
argument that Hyria and Hysiae were the same, for
the site of Hysiae is at no great distance from Khalia.
Among the minor places of the Thebaea were
Cynoscephalae and Grseasstethus. In the first inva
sion of Bceotia by Agesilaus, B. C. 378, he pro
ceeded, after crossing Mount Cythaeron, to Thespiae,
and from thence entered the district of Thebes.
The Thebans had thrown up entrenchments, as well
in their passes as in many parts of their plains ;
behind these they fought, or sallying with their
cavalry through openings which had been left for
that purpose in the ramparts2, annoyed the Spartans
so as to oblige them frequently to shift their ground.
Agesilaus nevertheless contrived to drive them from
their positions, and destroyed the country up to
the walls of Thebes 3. Xenophon, in again stating
these transactions, in his Agesilaus, there remarks
that the king passed Cynoscephalae, in the Theban
territory, advanced to the city, and offered battle to

1 Xa'Xta. pose the field-works, here
2 A complete specimen of a mentioned by Xenophon, to
rampart of this kind still exists have been. — See On the Demi
in Attica, but as it was in- of Attica in the Transactions
tended for the defence of the of the Royal Society of Litera-
plain of Acharnse, towards that ture, vol. 1, p. 138.
of Thria, it was of a more per- 3 Xenoph. Hellen. 1. 5, c. 4.
manent kind than we can sup-

XVIII. J BCEOTIA. 475
the Thebans both in the plains and among the hills,
by which the panegyrist intended apparently to con
trast the conduct of Agesilaus with that of Cleom-
brotus, who in the preceding winter, though he had
moved from Thespiae to Cynoscephalae, and had
encamped there sixteen days, had not advanced
beyond it, nor had laid waste the Theban land. In
the second expedition of Agesilaus, in the following
spring, he again took the road of Thespiae, after
crossing the Cithaeron, but as soon as the Thebans
moved towards the same point, he turned suddenly
in the opposite direction, to Scolus, and having
passed the Theban entrenchment which had been
formed at that place, he proceeded to lay waste
all the eastern part of the Thebaea as far as the
Tanagrice 1. Returning from that frontier, he
marched to Thebes, and passed the city with the
walls on his left ; while the Thebans, having re
tired from near Thespiae, prepared for battle in a
narrow and difficult pass called the Graeas-stethus,
in front of an entrenchment which they had there
formed. But Agesilaus not choosing to attack
them in such a strong position, made a flank
movement towards the city, which obliged the
Thebans to quit their position at Graeas-stethus, and
to move in all haste to Thebes, taking the road
by Potniae as being the safest. Some of the Lace
daemonian morse approached the Thebans as they
were proceeding along the heights ; and one of
the polemarchs was slain in the encounter, while
on the part of the Thebans the rear suffered a
little, when they had nearly arrived at the city,
from the cavalry and Sciritae, and were obliged to
2 See p. 331 of this volume.

476 BCEOTIA. [chap. XVIII.
turn and face their pursuers, who thereupon re
treated. Agesilaus then occupied the position at
Graeas-stethus, which his manoeuvre had obliged
the enemy to evacuate, and on the next day he
marched to Thespiae.
Cynoscephalae was renowned for having been the
birth-place or residence of the great lyric poet of
Bceotia l ; and its situation seems to have been
not more than half a mile from the walls of
Thebes ; for Pausanias, after having described
some monuments on the outside of the gate Neitae,
proceeds to remark that the route which led
towards Onchestus, crossed the river Dirce ; and
that the ruins of the house of Pindar were on the
opposite bank of the river, with a temple of
Dindymene, containing a statue which had been
dedicated by the poet2. Probably Cynoscephalae,
like many other places in the time of Pausanias,
preserved only its sacred edifice, together with
ruins of the poet's house, which had been preserved
from respect to his memory. Graeas-stethus
seems to have been in a narrow valley of the
Kanavari, which lies exactly in the route from
Thebes to Thespiae, and affords several passes, such
as Xenophon describes 3. As Potniae was ten stades
from Thebes, on the way to Plataea 4, the marches
of the Lacedaemonians through the Thebaea are
thus perfectly intelligible.
1 Kvvbg KEipaXal  3 Possibly some remains of
%v Sk x<aP'l0V Qnft&v, dip' ol antiquity at a ruined church,
TUvSapog AaitydvTOv irdig, midway from Thebes to the
Botbirbg e/c Kvvbg K.£<j>aX&v, site of Thespiae, mentioned in
pEX&v iroiyrrig. — Stephan. in the next page, may be the exact
voce. V. et Thorn. Mag. in site of Graeas-stethus.
Vita Pindar. * Pausan. Boeot. c. 8.
2 Pausan. Boeot. c. 25.

CHAPTER XIX.

BCEOTIA.

Departure from Thebes — Vale of the Kanavari — Rimokastro —
Lefka, Thespiae — Leuctra— Battle of Leuctra — Paleopana-
ghia — Pyrgaki, Ascra — Fountain Aganippe — Grove of the
Muses — Hippocrene, Olmeius, Permessus — Neokhori — Ceres-
sus — Tateza — Fountain of Narcissus — Xeronomi — Pyrgo on
Mount Korombili — Port Aliki — Kakosia, Thisbe — Vathy,
Port of Thisbe — Dobrena — Inscriptions at Kakosia — Khosia
— Monastery of Saint Taxiarches — Port Sarandi — Siphae —
Dobo — Zalitza, Bulis — Thebae Corsicce — Port Eutretus —
Eutresis — Arrival at Kyriaki.
Feb. 3. — From Thebes to Rimo-kastro. Having
pursued the road to Livadhia for 40 minutes, as
far as the crossing of the Kanavari, we turn to the
left along the right bank of that river, which flows
between downs of no great height, and in 20
minutes from the turning arrive at the ruins of a
church on the left, which contains some remains
of an ancient monument, consisting of squared
blocks of white marble. Having remained here
5 minutes, we soon afterwards cross the Kanavari,
and proceed along the left bank. Hereabouts the
river is joined by several smaller torrents from the
hills on either side, which are all now flowing in
consequence of last night's rain. In 42 minutes
from the church, at 11.17, we pass a mill on the
right bank of the river, and at 11.30 the hamlet

478 BCEOTIA. [chap.
of Arkhudhitza, on the hill which borders the val
ley on the same side.
Twenty minutes farther, a verdant plain, con
taining the sources of the river, opens to view ; and
at 12.5 we begin to ascend the height which rises
from its northern side, and which is one of the most
commanding points towards the western extremity
of that long range which extends from Mount Heli
con by Thebes to Tanagra. On the summit stand
the villages of Erimokastro, or Rimokastro 1, to
the west, and Katzikaveli 2 to the east, separated
only from each other by a torrent flowing to the
Kanavari. To the southward the valley above-
mentioned is bordered by a parallel ridge which
terminates eastward at Khalki and Balitza, three
miles north of Plataea, or rather is there blended
with the downs, which extend from the Asopus to
Thebes. The valley is separated to the eastward
by ground so gently rising from the plains of
Leuctra and of Plataea, that it may be considered
as continuous with those plains, although the
waters on either side of the rise flow in very dif
ferent directions ; those to the eastward of it form
ing the western branch of the Asopus, and those
below Rimokastro feeding the river Kanavari,
which joins the lake Livadhi or Hylice.
In the middle of the vale, immediately below
Rimokastro, are extensive ruins of an ancient
1 'Epjjp.oKaorpoi' — Deserted- vowel is one of the most com-
castle ; derived evidently from mon of Romaic corruptions.
the neighbouring ruins. The 2 Kar^t/ca/jEXt.
suppression of the initial short
13

XIX. J BCEOTIA. 479
town, undoubtedly Thespiae, the founders of which
seem to have chosen the site for the sake of the
sources of the Kanavari. Such a low situation,
commanded by hills on either side, although not
so important in ancient as it would be in modern
times, must have been inconvenient in any kind
of warfare ; and the instances of Greek cities in
such a position are rare. The only remains of
military architecture are the foundations of an
oblong or oval inclosure, built of very solid ma
sonry of a regular kind. It is scarcely half a
mile in circumference ; but all the adjacent ground
to the south-east is covered, like the interior
of the fortress, with ancient foundations, squared
stones, and other remains, proving that if the in
closure was the only fortified part of the city,
many of the public and private edifices stood with
out the walls. The place is called Lefka, from a
village of that name no longer in existence, but
the ruined churches of which still remain to the
number of five or six. When I visited these ruins
in 1802, there were still three inhabited cottages
at Lefka, but these are now deserted and ruined.
In the time of Wheler the village appears to have
been nearly of the same size as Rimokastro or
Katzikaveli l.
The springs which give rise to the Kanavari are
in various parts of the valley ; so that at the an
cient site the stream is already formed, and flows
1 " Rimocastro is divided one below." — Wheler, p. 470.
into three little knots of He mistook the ruins for those
houses, two upon the hill and of Thisbe.

480 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
along the northern side of the ruins, where it is
joined by other sources which issue from the slopes
near the river's bank, as well as from below the
walls of the fortress, and even from among the
ruins within the walls. The churches contain the
remains of cornices, ceilings, architraves, columns,
and plain quadrangular stones, all of white marble,
and similar relics are found in all the surrounding
villages and solitary churches, showing that the
city which stood here was one of the most consi
derable in Boeotia. Lefka, Aevko, so nearly resem
bling AiVKrpa, would at first incline one to the
belief that Leuctra was here situated, but Leuctra
was never any thing more than a village of the
Thespice, and it no longer existed in the time of
Strabo, whereas the geographer's description of
Thespiae, as the only considerable town of Bceotia
except Tanagra 1, corresponds to the abundant re
mains at Lefka, as well as to the date of the inscrip
tions which still exist here. Though I do not find
the city named in any of these documents, Meletius
has given us a copy of two which he discovered at
Rimokastro bearing this evidence 2 ; to which I may

1 Having described Thebes t&v B' dXXiov kpEiiria Kal bvb-
as, oiiSk Koipyg d^ioXbyov rvirov /jiara XkXEiirrai.
a&(ovaa, Strabo adds, icai aXXat 2 QEoirikwv rf f3ovXr) /cat
7roXEtc dvdXoyov 'kxovai irXrjv b Bijpog" Apvipov (?) Tlapapbvov
Tavdypag Kal QcawiuV airat dpETijg eVe/cev.
c" 'iKav&g avppkvovai irpbg AvroKpdropa Tpa'iavbv Kal-
EKEivag KpivbpEvai, p. 403 ; aapa —Efiaarbv rbv Evepyirnv
and again, p. 460, Nt/yt Sk /cat Kriaryv fi irbXig QEairikiiiv,
pbvy (QkairEia) avvkaryKE t&v 9eo<s. — Melet. Geog. tom. ii.
Boiwtik&v itoXeuiv KalTdvaypa' p. 341.

XIX. J BCEOTIA. 481
add the fact, that at the two villages I have pro
cured several coins of Thespiae, which are not very
common in other parts of Bceotia. It must be ad
mitted, that the description of Thespiae by Pausa
nias, and by a poet cited by Stephanus, both of
whom describe it as situated vtt6, or at the foot of
Helicon l, would lead one to seek for it rather
nearer to that mountain than Lefka ; but, on the
other hand, the distance of this place from Mount
Faga exactly accords with the fifty stades which
Pausanias places between Thespiae and the moun
tain of the Sphinx.
The inscriptions of the date of the Roman Em
pire are a fragment in honour of Trajan at Lefka,
another containing the name and titles of Pertinax
at Rimokastro, and a stele at the latter place in
scribed in honour of a native citizen named Titus
Flavius Philinus, who had attained under one of
the Roman emperors not named, the dignity of
quaestor of Asia, tribune, praetor, legate of Cyprus,
and proconsul of Lycia and Pamphylia2.
Among several broken inscriptions in the ruined
churches at Lefka 3, there is one more ancient than
the others consisting of three lines of characters of
the best times, engraved with great care on a
block of white marble, the face of which is divided
by lines into squares, so that each letter is inclosed
1 GE'oTria virb to bpog tov 'EXiK&va tjiKiarai. — Pausan. Boeot.
c. 26. " AvBpEg 8' ot ttot 'kvaiov virb Kpordipoig 'EXtK&vog
Ar/part t&v ai/^Et 0£OTriae Evplxopog.
Philiades Megarensis ap. Stephan. in QkairEia.
V. Inscription, No. 73. 8 V. Inscriptions, Nos. 74, 75, 76.
VOL. II. I i

482 BCEOTIA. [chap.
within a square *. Unfortunately one end of the
marble is built into the wall, so as to conceal the
end of each line, and the entire tenor of the in
scription is thus left uncertain, though there is
enough extant to show that it recorded the dedi
cation by Archias and Thrasymachus, of a work
made by Praxiteles of Athens. As Pausanias ob
served in the temple of Eros or Love, which was
the deity held in the highest honour at Thespiae,
statues of Venus and Phryne in marble, made by
Praxiteles, the great Athenian sculptor 2, it is not
improbable that the existing inscription may re
late to those works. As to the celebrated statue
of Love in Pentelic marble, which was presented
by Praxiteles to the kralpa Phryne, and by her to
the Thespienses, by which she conferred a great
benefit upon her native city by attracting strangers
thither, the words of Strabo show that it had been
removed from Thespiae considerably before his
time 3 ; and Pausanias found only an imitation of
it by Menodorus of Athens. In the time of Pliny
the original was in the schools of Octavia at
Rome * ; and its ultimate fate is unknown. A
brazen Eros, which Lysippus had made for the
Thespienses, not inferior in merit perhaps to that

1 V. Inscription, No. 77. 1. 13, c. 6. Phryne is con-
2 Pausan. Boeot. c. 27. firmed by Pausanias in two
3 ITporEpov pkv oiiv bipbpEvol other places. — Attic. 1. 1, c.
nvEg rbv "Epiora dvkfiaivov kiri 20; Phocic. c. 14; and bv
rrjv Qkairsiav, &c. Strabo calls Athen. 1. 13, c. 6. Antholog.
the lady, Glycera ; but Glycera Jacobs, vol. i. p. 164; vol. ii.
was a different person, almost p. 254.
equally renowned. — V. Athen. * Plin. H. N. 1. 36, c. 5.

XIX.J BCEOTIA. 483
of Praxiteles, was destroyed by fire at Rome, after
having been first carried thither by Caligula, re
stored to Thespiae by Claudius, and again trans
ported to Rome by Nero \ The earliest repre
sentation of Love worshipped at Thespia, still
existed in the time of Pausanias in the form of a
rude stone.
The other principal monunients of Thespiae were
not near the temple of Eros, but in a different part
ofthe city near the agora, which contained a statue
of Hesiod in brass. Near the agora was the theatre,
a temple of Venus Melaenis, a statue of Victory in
brass, and a small temple of the Muses, containing
their figures in stone of small dimensions. There
still existed at Thespiae also, in the time of Pausa
nias, a very ancient temple of Hercules, and in
another part of the town images of Jupiter Saotes,
of Bacchus, of Fortune, of Health, and of Minerva
Ergane, with Plutus standing by her, both which
were the work of (Theron ?)
The principal cause of the present superiority of
Rimokastro over the neighbouring villages, and
perhaps of the desertion of Lefka, is the fame of its
patron saint named Kharalambo, XapaAajun-oc, who
has the reputation of curing the plague, and of
preserving from the infection. When the disorder
rages in Thebes, or Livadhia, or 'Egripo, a disaster
which though not very frequent in Greece is sure
to happen occasionally where Turks reside, the
Greeks often fly from the infected town, and place
themselves under the Saint's protection at Rimo
kastro. His church stands on a hill to the east-
1 Pausan. Bceot. c. 27.
vol. n. i i 2 +-

484 BCEOTIA. [chap.
ward of the village. Among the pictures which
cover all the walls, is the figure of the saint him
self, bearing very little resemblance to the ancient
patron of Thespiae, as imagined by Lysippus or
Praxiteles, with the plague represented as a mon
ster in chains at his feet. In another picture a
crowd of kings, bishops, archons, and others, are
driven by the plague, or the destroying angel,
into the flaming gulph. The same church con
tains a large Hellenic sepulchral monument, re
presenting, in indifferent workmanship, a naked
man and a dog, without any inscription. It was
found not long ago in a corn-field to the south-west
of Lefka. The inscription in honour of Philinus
is at the same church ; and in the wall outside are
inserted two sepulchral stones, on one of which is
the common heroic emblem of a man mounted on a
horse, which has its left fore foot on an altar. The
other stone has nothing but the name Ephippus, in
very ancient characters *.
The heights to the northward of Rimokastro and
Katzikaveli are covered with vineyards : the rest of
the surrounding country, like all that which extends
to the mountains bordering the Euhoic frith on one
side, and to Mount Parnes on the other, consists of
plains or downs bearing corn near the villages, but
the greater part in natural pasture, with scarcely a
tree or shrub to enliven the scene. It was not so
anciently, when an oracle of Delphi bestowed the
epithet of shady on Leuctra2, and when, as we are
1 V. Inscriptions, Nos. 78, 79.
2 AEVKTpa te poi aKiOEvra pk\Ei /cat ' AXr\aiov ovSag.
Pausan. Boeot. c. 14.

XIX.] BCEOTIA. 485
told by Plutarch, the heroum of Androcrates near
Plataea was thickly surrounded with trees '. There
were then probably gardens and plantations near
the waters, the heights were well wooded, and all
the detached temples and heroa stood in the midst
of groves. The Kanavari, which has its rise in the
springs of Thespiae, probably took that modern
name from plantations of hemp2 which once
existed on its banks. It is said to retain water
all the year, a rare quality in the smaller, and
indeed in some of the more celebrated rivers
of Greece ; for the Asopus flows only about four
months in the year. But the Kanavari, though it
is preserved in the dry season by the narrowness
of the valley below Thespice, which admits only of
the water being diverted to mills, serves in its
lower course for the irrigation of the plain of
Thebes, so that in summer little or no water re
mains to be discharged into the lake Livadhi.
The site of Leuctra is very clearly marked by a
tumulus and some artificial ground on the summit
of the ridge which borders the southern side of
the valley of Thespice; this position being ex
actly in the line between Thespiae and Plataea,
as Strabo intimates Leuctra to have been3, while
its smaller distance from the former accords with
the fact of Leuctra having been included in
the district of Thespiae4. The battle of Leuc
tra was fought probably in the valley on the
1 Plutarch, in. Aristid. 1 kv AEVKrpoig rrjg QEairiKijg.
2 Kavafii. — Xenoph. Hellen, 1. 6, c. 4.
3 Strabo, p. 414.

486 BCEOTIA. [chap.
northern side of the tumulus, about midway be
tween Thespiae and the western extremity of the
plain of Plataea. Cleombrotus, in order to avoid
the Boeotians, who were expecting him by the
direct route from Phocis, marched by Thisbe and
the valleys on the southern side of Mount Heli
con1 ; and having thus made his appearance sud
denly at Creusis, the port of Thespiae, captured
that fortress, and twelve triremes belonging to the
Thebans. From thence he moved upon Leuctra,
where he intrenched himself on a rising ground ;
after which the Thebans encamped on an opposite
hill, at no great distance. The position of the
latter, therefore, seems to have been on the east
ern prolongation of the height of Rimokastro.
The Theban commanders having cited an oracle,
which declared that the punishment of the Lace
daemonians, for the violation of the daughters
of Scedasus of Leuctra, by two Spartans, was
to take place in the plain of Leuctra2, where the
monuments of the women were erected, the The
bans adorned the tomb previously to the battle3.

1 Sid Qiafi&v Sk 6pEivr)v /cat camped at Chaeroneia before he
dirpoaSoKyrov iropEvBslg a'0t/c- moved towards Thebes, and
VElrat Etc KpEvaiv. — Xenoph. Epaminondas waited for him
Hellen. 1. 6, c. 4. at the passes near Coroneia, rd
iropEvBElg Bia rijg <i>toKiBog /cat irEpl rrjv KopiiVEtav OTEvd, pro-
SiE&Xdibv rrjv irapaQaXaTTiav bably at the pass of Petra.
bSbv xaXETr^v ovaav kvkfiaXEv 2 'Ev r& AEV/crpuctji iteSiu. —
Etc rrjv Boibirtav dKivSiivoig. — Plutarch, in Pelopid.
Diodor. 1. 15, c. 54. 3 EKoapyaav Br) tovto to
According to Diodorus (1.15, pvypa ol Qyfidioi irpb rijg
u. 52), Cleombrotus was en- pdxnc — Xenoph. ibid:

xix. J bceotia. 487
Hence the monument and the plain appear to have
been between the two positions. The numbers of
the contending parties are not stated by Xenophon,
but by the most probable accounts of subsequent
times the Lacedaemonians had 10,000 hoplitae and
1000 cavalry ; and the Boeotians 6000 hoplitae,
with a better, if not a more numerous cavalry, than
that of their opponents1. The two armies met in
the plain, with their cavalry in front. That of the
Lacedaemonians was soon defeated, and in turning,
disordered their hoplitae, just at the time when the
Theban phalanx, which was fifty shields in depth,
attacked the right of the Lacedaemonians, who were
only about twelve deep. The close order of the
Thebans had been purposely arranged by Epami
nondas with the hope that, if he could break the
Spartans where the king commanded, the rest of
the army would be an easy conquest. The result
was more successful than he could have expected.
Cleombrotus, together with Dinon and Sphodrias,
two of his chief officers, were slain ; the right
was turned ; the left, as soon as they perceived it,
retreated to the rising ground, and the whole army
took refuge within the entrenchments, when find
ing that 1000 Lacedaemonians had fallen, including
400 out of 700 Spartans2, the surviving leaders de-

1 Plutarch, in Pelopid. — phon, and it is confirmed by
Diodor. 1. 15, c. 52. Plutarch, who, in his life of
2 Mitford doubts whether the Agesilaus, represents the whole
Spartans were included among Lacedaemonian loss to have
the Lacedaemonians, but such I been 1000.
think was the meaning of Xeno- 13

488 bceotia. [chap.
termined to demand a truce to bury their dead,
and thus to acknowledge themselves beaten, upon
which the Thebans delivered the dead and erected
a trophy. As the barrow on the site of Leuctra
is exactly on the summit of the ridge which was
occupied by the Lacedaemonian camp, it is proba
bly the place of sepulture of the 1000 Lacedaemo
nians who fell in this celebrated contest, from
which is dated the decline of Sparta ; it is therefore
a monument of the same kind as the tumulus of
Marathon, and a relic of antiquity scarcely less
interesting. On leaving Rimokastro for Paleo-panaghia, we
descend into the plain and proceed along the foot
of the hills. At about half-way, the village of
Neokhorio stands on a projection of the opposite
mountain. In the middle of the valley, in the
same direction, lies a large block of marble, on one
side of which, in a circular compartment, figures
of a man and horse are represented, below which is
inscribed, in very large characters,
PI2TQNIA HPQI
The inscription is incomplete at both ends, one
being buried in the ground and the other broken;
but the name was evidently Aristonides. Having
returned into the road, six minutes farther a church
occurs, which is made up of pedestals, altars, tomb
stones of different sorts, and other fragments of
ancient architecture. Among the sepulchral mo
numents are five which represented horsemen in
relief, like the hero above-mentioned. There are

xix. J bceotia. 489
two monuments of the same kind at the church
of St. Kharalambo, another in the village of Rimo
kastro, others below that village, among the ruins of
Thespiae, and there is a similar one in the aqueduct
of Thebes. In some of these the man is on foot by
the side of his horse ; in others he is mounted and
armed with a shield and sword. The horse gene
rally sets his left foot upon an altar, and the man's
name is inscribed below with the addition ''ELowe.
In the same ruined church a part of a human
figure in high relief, representing a man in the act
of stretching out his right arm, has lately been un
covered by the rains : a part of the figure is still
buried in the earth. The place seems to be the same
which Wheler states to have been called Phria, but
no knowledge of that name now exists.
At the end of the plain of Neokhorio we cross a
slight elevation, and arrive at sunset at the vil
lage of Panaghia, situated among vineyards, a
little above a small plain which reaches to the
foot of Mount Helicon. The distance from Rimo
kastro is thirty-six minutes. At the church of Aio
Vlasi at Panaghia are three inscriptions, the most
curious of which is a stele of a singular form, in
scribed with the name of Timon, and -^yps for
^aipe in the Bceotic dialect, like kv for Kal in the
inscriptions of Tanagra1.
Feb. 4. — The ruins of Paleo-panaghia are about
a mile distant to the north-westward of the pre
sent village, on a rocky summit in the direc
tion of the mountain of Zagara. Here stands
1 V. Inscriptions, Nos. 82, 83, 84.

490 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
a ruined tower of the middle ages on a peaked
rock, at the foot of which are remains of churches
and houses. Wheler, who calls this place Pa
naghia, without the Paleo, shows it nevertheless
to have been exactly in the same desolate state it
is at present. It would seem that new Panaghia
was not then in existence, for he describes the
valley and river, which is between it and Neok-
horio, without any mention of the village. He
supposed the ruins to stand on the site of Ceressus,
a strong fortress of the Thespienses, whose city,
standing in a plain, seems to have required some
such place of retreat towards the mountains. Twice
Ceressus served as a place of refuge to them; first
on occasion of an incursion of Thessalians, whose
attacks they here successfully resisted ; and again
after the battle of Leuctra, when the place soon
yielded to Epaminondas1. The tower commands
a fine view of the Thespice and Parasopia as far as
Mount Parnes, as well as of Thebes and a part of
the Lake Copais. The nearer view is confined to
the Heliconian summits. To the right the serrated
top of Mount Zagara, or Libethrium, is seen fore
shortened : and a little on this side of the highest
point appears the monastery of Zagara, delightfully
situated on a woody slope which falls to the re
tired valley where stand the two villages also called
Zagara. To the left of the mountain the snowy
summit of Parnassus just shows itself.
The rocky ridge of Paleo-panaghia is divided
only from Helicon by a valley, which branches to
1 Pausan. Bosot. c. 14.

XIX. J BCEOTIA. 491
the north-east. This plain is probably the terri
tory of Ascra, for on the opposite side of it are the
remains of a Hellenic fortress, on the summit of a
high conical hill, or rather rock, which is con
nected to the north-west with Mount Zagara, and
more to the westward with the proper Helicon.
The distance of these ruins from Lefka corresponds
exactly to the forty stades which Strabo places
between Thespiae and Ascra ; and it is further re
markable, that a single tower is the only portion of
the ruins conspicuously preserved, just as Pausanias
describes Ascra in his time, though there are also
some vestiges of the walls surrounding the summit
of the hill, and inclosing a space of no great ex
tent. The place is now called Pyrgaki from the
tower, which is formed of equal and regular layers
of masonry, and is uncommonly large. Hesiod
describes Ascra as a disagreeable residence both
in winter and summer1, which may have been
caused by the confined circuit of its walls, the ab
ruptness of the hill, and the proximity of the great
summits of Helicon, rendering the winter long and
severe, and in summer excluding the refreshing
breezes of the west. Ascra however is surrounded
with beautiful scenery, with delightful summer-
retreats, and with fertile plains, enjoying a mild
climate during the winter ; and it was less, per
haps, upon its intrinsic defects, than upon a com-
NatTtraro S' dyx EXiK&vog di^vpy kvl Kuipy
"AaKpy, XtlPa KaKy> BkpEi dpyaXky, oiiSk wot kaBXfj.
Hesiod. Op. v. 637.
Hesiod is here speaking of his father, who was forced by poverty
to seek a new residence.

492 BCEOTIA. [chap.
parison of it with the delightful Asiatic iEolis, from
whence his family came, that Hesiod founded his
condemnation of Ascra.
The middle of the valley, which lies between
Paleo-panaghia and Pyrgaki, is watered by a tor
rent, which is joined farther on by two small
streams from Mount Marandali, as the neighbour
ing or eastern summit of Helicon is called, and
thus forms the river which flows between new
Panaghia and Neo-khorio. From the left bank of
this torrent, midway between Paleo-panaghia and
Pyrgaki, issues a fine perennial source of water,
which, by the numerous squared blocks around it,
seems anciently to have enjoyed considerable re
putation. On one of the blocks are the letters
IPOMIO'
in large and well-formed characters : the fields
around are spread with stones and remains of
habitations, among which are two or three small
churches in ruins. If Pyrgaki was Ascra, this
fountain was probably the famous Aganippe, for
Pausanias, after having described Ascra, proceeds
to the Grove of the Muses in Helicon, and remarks
that Aganippe was on the left hand ], which is
exactly true of this source, supposing the Grove
of the Muses to have been at St. Nicolas, of which
I was satisfied on my former journey, by an inscrip
tion which I found there, relating to the Games of
the Muses, mentioned by Pausanias2. This inscrip-
1 Pausan. Boeot. c. 29. QEairiEig /cat dy&va dyovai
2 irEpwiKovai Sk /cat civBpEg to Mouo-Eta. — Pausan. Boeot. c.
dXaog /cat iopryv te kiravBa ol 31.

XIX.) BCEOTIA. 493
tion, after having proceeded from the foot of the
hill of Pyrgaki to Aio Nikola, I again copy. It
contains a catalogue of victors in the Museia, pre
ceded by the names of the Agonothetae and of the
Archon (of Thespiae), under whom the games were
celebrated, which are styled the Great Caesarian
Augustan Museia \ St. Nicholas is a metokhi, or
church and small convent dependent on that of
Makariotissa, which is in the upper region of He
licon, towards its southern declivity. The metokhi
is beautifully situated in a theatre-shaped hollow
at the foot of Mount Maranda.fi. The buildings
stand in the midst of a grove of pine, walnut, plane,
and olive, mixed with myrtle, bay and oleander,
and adjoining to them are some gardens containing
many hazel trees. A constant verdure is maintained
here in summer by a copious source of water.
The fountain Hippocrene, which was twenty stades
above (knavafiavTi) the Grove of the Muses, was

1 'AyaBrj rvxy. 'AyiovoBE- Bapiarrjg Aov. Tdiog A'iXiog
rovvTogriov p-Ey dXiav Kaiaapibiv 'AXk^avBpog, KVKXiog aiiXrjTrjg
^EfSaarrjuiv MovaEidiv Aiipy. M. Aiipri. —Eirripiog NEpsaia-
KaXXt/cXtavow tov Zairyplxov, vbg ' AvnyEviSyg KbXwv 'Avri-
kirl dpxovTog Avpr). Movakpw- oxEvg, rpayipSbg M. AvijitBwg
rog, irvpipopovvrog Aiipy. 'Apia- 'AprEpiBwpog KopivBiog, kuiuw-
roKXkovg tov 'EiriKTii, ypappa- Bog M. EvrvxiO-vbg 'AByva'iog,
TEvovrog Aiiprj. Aifidvov tov KiBapurSbg M. Avpr). 'AXki,av-
Aifidvov, kvEiKoiv o'ISe' aaXiriK- Spog ^EiKopySEvg, x0?0* ttoXei-
rr)g Hov. A'iXiog —Epairiuiv tikov Aiiprj. Zuiaipiavbg TXv-
Eijikaiog, Krfpvi, M. Avpr). Eh- Kiovog QEairiEvg, Sid irdvroiv
rvxyg Tavaypalog, pa\j/u)Sbg M.Avpy. ^Eirrlptog NEpEaiavbg
M. Aiipr). EiiKaipog Tavaypalog, 'AvnyEviSyg KbXuiv 'AvnoxEvg.
UvBiKog avXyrr)g M. Aipr/. 'Iou- — V. Inscription, No. 80.
Xiavbg TptiroXElryg, HvBiKog ki-

494 BCEOTIA. [chap.
probably at Makariotissa, which is noted for a fine
spring of water, though the twenty stades of Pau
sanias accord better with the direct distance, than
with that by the road. At the Hippocrene, Pausanias
saw an ancient copy of the "Epya of Hesiod written
upon lead, and much injured by time \ In my for
mer tour in Bceotia, in which I proceeded from St.
Nicholas to Zagara, and after following that valley,
descended by Kotomiila to Livadhia, I remember to
have remarked two other springs on the ascent of
the mountain from St. Nicholas, but as these are
scarcely more than half the distance mentioned by
Pausanias, and are very inconsiderable in summer,
neither of them can be the Hippocrene ; there is a
well also near the summit of Mount Marandali,
noted among the peasants as serving to water their
cattle in summer, and called Kriopigadho (cold
well), a name which is sometimes applied to the
summit itself. If Marandali was the sacred summit
of Helicon, as its vicinity to the Grove of the Muses
suggests, Kriopigadho corresponds with the foun
tain near the altar of Jupiter on Helicon, alluded
to by the author of the Theogonia 2.
The Grove of the Muses preserved in the time
of Pausanias a greater number of statues, by emi
nent masters, than any place in Bceotia, not ex-
1 /cat pot pdXvfiBov eBeikvv- written by Hesiod, and that
aav, ivBa r) iryyr), rd iroXXd even of this the first ten lines
virb tov xP°vov XeXvpaapkvov were spurious. — Pausan. Boeot.
kyykypairrai Be aling ra'Epya. c. 31.
The natives (ot irtpl rbv 'EXikH- a Hesiod. Theogon. v. 3.
va ohovvTEg) maintained that v. inf. p. 497. n. 1.
the Erga was the only poem

XIX. J BCEOTIA. 495
cepting Thebes l, and the extant inscription gives
strong reason to believe, by the form of its letters,
that the Museia were celebrated long after the time
of Pausanias. The statues of the Muses remained
here until the reign of Constantine, when they
were removed to his new capital, where they were
consumed by fire in the year 404 2. In the ap
proach to the alsos, Pausanias remarked a rock
wrought in the shape of a cavern, which con
tained portraits in relief of Eupheme, nurse
of the Muses, and of Linus. In the sanctu
ary were the nine Muses by Cephisodotus, and
another set, of which three were by the same
sculptor, three by Strongylion, and three by
Olympiosthenes. Here also were Apollo and
Hermes in brass, contending for the lyre, a Bac
chus seated, the work of Lysippus, and another
upright Bacchus, the finest of the productions of
Myron, except his Erechtheus at Athens. This
Bacchus had been presented by Sylla, who had
taken it from Orchomenus. There were portrait-
statues of several poets or other followers of the
Muses3, namely, Thamyris blind and bearing a
broken lyre, Arion of Methymna on a dolphin, Sa-
cadas of Argos, Hesiod seated with a lyre4 on his
knees, Orpheus (seated) with Telete standing by
him, -and surrounded by brutes in marble and
bronze. The Grove contained also a statue of
Arsinoe, sister and wife of Ptolemy, seated on
1 Pausan. Boeot. c. 29, et seq. 3 iroirirdg »/ dXXtog kiri<j>avElg
2 Euseb. de Vita Constant. eVi fiovaiKy. — Pausan. Bceot.
1. 3, c. 54. Sozomen, 1. 2. c. 5. c. 30.
Zosim. 1. 2, c. 21, 1. 5, c. 24. * KtBdpa.

496 BCEOTIA. [chap.
an ostrich of brass, and the figure of a deer
giving suck to Telephus, near which were an ox
and a statue of Priapus. Among the votive tri
pods, the most ancient was that dedicated by
Hesiod, who had obtained it at Chalcis, as a
prize for his verses.
" The vicinity of the Grove," adds Pausanias,
" is inhabited, and the Thespienses here cele
brate a festival and contest called the Museia, and
another in honour of Love1 in which there are prizes,
as well in the arts of the Muses2 as for Athletae."
The water from the fountain at St. Nicolas, to
gether with that from the adjacent slopes, joins the
stream from Aganippe and the valley of Ascra, the
latter having previously received another small
contribution from the pass which leads to Zagara,
and which was the ancient road from Thespiae and
the Museium of Helicon to Coroneia, by the valley
of Libethrium. The united river or rather rivulet,
then leaves the two Panaghias on the left, and
Neokhorio on the right, flows three miles in the
direction of Plataea, then takes a sudden turn to
the south-west, and dividing the roots of Mount
Korombili from those of Helicon, follows a still
more westerly course to Dobrena. and Kakosia,
leaving on the right Karada and Tateza, and on
the left Xeronomi. What was the ancient name
of this river ? — which having had its origin in such
illustrious sources as Aganippe, Hippocrene, the
Fountain of the Muses, and that of Narcissus, can
not but have had some celebrity among the Greeks.
1 no "Epwrt. 2 MovaiKrjg.

XIX. J BCEOTIA. 497
Hesiod mentions only the Permessus and Olmeius ¦.
I have already remarked, that the evidence of
Strabo and of the Scholiast on Hesiod 2, is fa
vourable to the opinion that the river Kefalari,
which joins the lake Cephissis near the site of Ha
liartus, is the Permessus and its confluent the river
of Zagara the Olmeius. But to this conclusion some
objection may be made : both the testimonies just
referred to are derived from Zenodotus, an Ephe-
sian who lived in the time of the second Ptolemy,
and of whose judgment on Grecian topography
1 Movadoiv 'EXtKoividBiiiv dpx&ipEB' aEiBEiv,
A'lB' 'EXiK&vog 'kxovaiv bpog, pkya te £aBEOv te
Kai te irEpl Kpyvyv loEiBka irbaa' diraXo'iaiv
OpxEvvrai, Kal fiwjxbv kpiaBEvkog Kpovlwvog'
Kal te XoEaadjiEvai rkpEva XP°a ^Eppyaao'io,
H 'lirirovKprir r\g ij 'OXp-EtoD i^aBkoio,
'AKpordno 'EXik&vi x°P0V£ kvEiroirfaavro. Hesiod Theogon. v. 1.
Though Hesiod does not kyx&ptoi cJtd ro irp&rov (j>avr)vat
assert that the Permessus and Tlapfi-qabv, &g ipyai Kpctrijc kv
Olmeius were rivers, the mas- ro'ig BoioiriKo7g. 'E/tjSaXXct Sk
culine termination, and the be- Eig rijv KunrdiSa Xijxvyv. 'Ev
lief of all subsequent writers, c5e ro'ig ZyvoBorEioig ypdijiEi Tsp-
fully warrant the presumption fi-qao'io. Tag Sk iryydg e^ei kv
that they were not mere foun- ry QEairiaKrj x^Pa KaL a7r aiiTrjg
tains bke Hippocrene, Aga- psl Eig ryv KoiiraiSa XifivrfV
nippe, or that fountain near KaK&g, b yap TEppyabg bpog
the altar of Jupiter, on the karl Kal oh irorupog. Kal 6
summit of the mountain, of 'OXpEibg irorapog kanv kv 'EXi-
which the poet has not given k&vi rrjg BoiaiTiag Kara to
us the name. ct/cpov aurov, dirb 'OXjxeiov tov
2 Strabo, p. 407, 411. — Ot Hiavtyov iraiBbg' TpiaKoaia Sk
pEV irorapol rijg BoiuiTtag fsc. irov ardSia uitexei Qy/3&v. — •
Permessus et Olmeius J ovroi Schol. Hesiod. Theog. v. 5.
Eiai. TlEpjiyabg bv KaXovai ol
VOL. II. K k

498 BOEOTIA. [chap.
Strabo does not leave a very favourable impres
sion when he remarks, that Zenodotus pro
posed to alter the ¦n-oXvordipvXov ''Apvyv of the Iliad
into TroXvo-rdipvXov "Aarcprjv, in opposition to the de
scription which Hesiod has given of his native
place, and the still stronger language of Eudoxus l.
Pausanias, the only author besides Hesiod whom
we can rely upon as having certainly seen the rivers
in question, says only of the Permessus that it was
a river of Helicon, and the reputed father of Aga
nippe 2 ; and of the Olmeius, that it was a small
river flowing on the summit of Helicon 3, which is
so slight a mention of these celebrated streams,
and so different from the usual confidence of Pau
sanias in recognizing places renowned in history or
fable, that one cannot but suspect that he had
doubts as to the identity of the rivers of Hesiod
with those pointed out by the k£yyyTal, and which
were probably the same alluded to by Strabo. His
silence as to any river in the Haliartia except the
Lophis, which rose not in Helicon but near the
walls of Haliartus, tends to support this opinion of
the impressions of Pausanias. Nor ought we to
1 EvBb%ov woXv xEIPw XEyor- no hesitation in making the
rog irEpl rijg "AaKpyg. — Strabo, emendation here proposed, for
p. 413. on comparing the words of
2 Bvyarkpa Sk klvai rr)v 'Aya- Pausanias with those of the
vliriryv tov UEppyaaov Xkyovai' Scholiast on Hesiod (6 'OX/iEibg
pEt Be Kal ovrog b TlEppyaabg irorapbg kanv kv "EXt/coiyi Kara
irEpl rbv 'EXiKoiva.— Pausan. ro aKpov avrov), it is evident
Boeot. c. 29. that the latter refers to the
3 'En-i Sk a/cpa rrj KopvQrj tov same river intended by Pausa-
'EXiK&vog irorapbg oh pkyag nias, and that both authors had
karlv 6 Adpog (lege 'OXjutde). — in view the words 'A/cporaYp
Pausan. Boeot. c. 31. I have 'EXt/c&m in Hesiod.

XIX. J BCEOTIA. 499
omit the consideration that both Pausanias and
the Scholiast seem to have mistaken the mean
ing of Hesiod, who does not place the Olmeius
on the summit of Helicon (a singular situa
tion for a river), but only says that the Muses
bathed in the Permessus, Olmeius or Hippocrene,
and that they danced at a fountain and altar of
Jupiter, on the summit of the mountain. If, then,
we can suppose that the names of Permessus and
Olmeius had been changed between the time of
Hesiod and that of the Ptolemies, or of the Roman
empire, it will be natural to conclude that the two
rivers noticed by the native poet, are those which
we now find to be the only two considerable and
perennial streams on the eastern side of Helicon,
and that if the Kefalari was the Permessus, the
river which rises in Aganippe and the Grove of the
Muses, and flows to Kakosia, was the Olmeius^.
Returning in 20 minutes from the Metokhi of St.
Nicolas to New Panaghia, we descend from thence
at 11, by a gentle slope to the river, cross it at
11.12, and immediately mounting the foot of an
advanced height of Mount Marandali, arrive in a
few minutes at Neokhorio. If I understand Wheler
rightly, it was on the hill above Neokhori, which
is well defended by its form on every side except
towards the mountain, that he supposed Thespiae
to have been situated, having observed upon it some
" ruins of an ancient city," and having found in a
1 Possibly a line of Pausa- the top of the mountain as well
nias has been lost between as of the situation of the 01-
'EXiK&vog and irorafi.bg, which meius.
may have been descriptive of
k k 2

500 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
church on the ascent, an inscription containing the
name of Thespiae. But as Thespiae was certainly
at Lefka, this was probably the site of one of the
subordinate towns of the Thespice 1, to which sup
position the inscription itself is not unfavourable,
having belonged to a monument which was erected
in honour of one Protogenes, son of Protarchus,
by the young men of Thespiae, in conjunction with
those of some of the TlapoiKol, or neighbouring
people who were engaged in business in Thespiae 2.
Such a monument might have been placed in any
of the towns of the Thespice as well as in Thespiae
itself. It is by no means improbable that this
position, and not Paleopanaghia, may be the site of
Ceressus, being more centrical with regard to the
Thespice, whereas Paleopanaghia is on the extremity
of the district very near Ascra, and has not the ad
vantage of being backed by Mount Helicon, from
which it is quite separated.
Beyond Neokhori the road quits the cultivated
country, and crosses the barren roots of the moun
tain, which are covered with wild thyme and
shrubs, particularly the paliuri, or Jerusalem thorn .
In descending towards the valley which lies be
tween the mountains Helicon and Korombili, and
which is watered by the stream from Paleopana
ghia, we arrive, at 11.53, at Tateza, a hamlet de
pendent on Xeronomi. On the opposite bank of a
1 The district of Thespiae kv QEairia'ig Tlpuiroykvyv Hpio-
was called Thespice, or Thes- rdpxov tov  /cat
piace, or Thespias. EVEpykryv kavnov. — Wheler,
2 QEairikoiv ol 7raic'£c Kal ira- p. 471.
poiK&v t&v irpaypaTEVopkvuiv

XIX. J BCEOTIA. 501
rivulet which flows by the village, stands a ruined
church, built of ancient fragments, among which
are some heroic monuments like those already de
scribed. Here are also two plain tomb-stones, with
single names in the nominative, in archaic charac
ters 1. Five minutes higher up the stream, is a
copious fountain surrounded by a modern inclo
sure, of which the materials are ancient squared
blocks. In the corn-fields above are many remains
of former habitations. It is the site, perhaps, of that
Donacon to which Pausanias adverts, immediately
after noticing the Olmius 2, and before he describes
Creusis and Thisbe, which two sites occur exactly
in conformity with the order of his narrative, if we
suppose Donacon to have been here situated, and
his Olmius to be the river which flows from Pana
ghia to Kakosia, and which receives the rivulet of
Tateza near Xeronomi. If the remains near Tateza
indicate the site of Donacon, the fountain is that
of Narcissus.
From Tateza we proceed, in 25 minutes, to Xe
ronomi or Xeronomes 3, a considerable village in a
wide cultivated valley, surrounded by high moun
tains, and watered by the small river before men
tioned. Xeronomi has a large ruined church,
composed of fragments of Hellenic architecture,
and many ancient squared blocks of the white
stone of the neighbouring mountains. Here are
several heroic monuments, bearing figures of a man
and horse ; and three plain sepulchral stones of
1 V. Inscript. Nos. 85, 86. or tEtrfpovopalg, dry pasture,
2 Pausan. Boeot. c. 31. or pastures.
3 Sspovopr), or Sripovopf),

502 bceotia. [chap.
very ancient date, inscribed with the names Aris
tophanes, Nicomachus, andPhrasse. Arisstophanes
is written with a double sigma : the X in Nicoma
chus is represented by St* -. One only of the heroic
monuments, and apparently more ancient than the
others, is inscribed : the name of the deceased is
preceded by kiri and followed by vptp, but both the
latter word and the name are in the Bceotic dialect2.
It is evident from the numerous churches in this
part of Bceotia, some of which are of large dimen
sions and ancient construction, that the Thespias
continued to be well inhabited under the Byzantine
empire, as it had been under the Roman; and it is
curious to observe that these churches still preserve
numerous remains of the temples and other build
ings of Thespiae, and its dependent villages and
sacred places, which were one of the last holds of
Paganism. Leaving Xeronomi at 2.25, and sending my bag
gage by the direct road down the vale to Kakosia,
I take that which leads to the port of Aliki — soon
quit the valley, enter a gorge of Mount Korombili
opposite to Xeronomi, and after following it for
about a quarter of an hour mount the ridge which
borders the Corinthiac Gulf, leaving the summit of
Korombili to the left. The ridge, as well as the
whole mountain, is a mere rock having some scanty
intervals of soil, covered with wild shrubs. On the
crest of the ridge, where we arrive at 3.10, the
road passes over the remains of a Hellenic fortress,
where, among the foundations of walls and houses,
1 V. Inscriptions Nos. 88, 2 V. Inscription No. 87.
89, 90.

XIX. J BCEOTIA. 503
one tower is still standing, which has given to the
place the name of Pyrgo. The masonry is similar
to that of Ascra, and the tower seems to have been
intended as a watch and signal post, as well from
its commanding position as from the great height
of the original work, for though still enough re
mains of the tower to be very conspicuous at a dis
tance, it seems formerly to have been twice as high ;
the part now standing being entirely filled with the
materials of the upper part which have fallen into
it. This point looks immediately down upon the
port of Aliki, which opens to the west, but is well
sheltered. The termination ofthe ridge of Pyrgo,
to the southward, forms the northern side of the
entrance into the harbour, and being connected
above with a more abrupt ledge of rock, descend
ing from the summit of the mountain, thus affords
a natural protection to the harbour on the land
side. The ancients, however, were not satisfied
with this degree of security, but built a wall along
the crest of the ledge of rock, which completely
excluded all access to the harbour by land from
the eastward. The principal remains are a tower,
and an adjoining piece of wall of the same kind
of masonry as that of Pyrgo. There was also a
space at the foot of the heights inclosed within the
ancient walls, and on the shore of the harbour is
a marshy level, containing ponds for making salt,
whence the name Aliki.
Pyrgo commands a fine view of the northern shore
of the Morea, and of the mountains which rise from
it, but Corinth is hidden by the Cape of Pera-
khora. It is remarkable that the mountains of the
Morea are more deeply covered with snow than

504 BOEOTIA. [CHAP.
those on this side of the gulf. Last year I re
marked the same tardiness of the spring in the
northern part of the Morea ; here, on the contrary,
and ever since I have left Athens, the sun at noon
has been already too warm to be agreeable for tra
velling. The mountains on either side of the gulf
seem to have the same relation to each other in re
spect of climate as two parallel walls, one of which
is exposed to the north and the other to the south.
Halfway towards the coast of Megaris lie the Kala.
Nisia, three low islands, upon one of which is a
monastery. Eastward of Korombili is Livadhostra,
a bad harbour in a large bay. From Pyrgo it lies
to the west of the summit of Korombili : near
Livadhostra eastward is another port named Kala
maki ; then occur those of Ai Vlasi, or Aio
Vasili \ and of Ghermano or iEgosthena. To
the westward of Aliki, near the Boeotian coast,
are four small islands lying in a line parallel
to the coast ; their names in the direction from
east to west are Makria, Kumboluri, or Strong-
hylo, Kuveli and Fonia. Within them is the
entrance into Vathy, the port of Kakosia and Do-
brena. Khosia, a large village, is seen imme
diately under the peak of Paleovuni or Helicon.
Farther westward the uncultivated roots of that
mountain impede all prospect of the coast.
It is difficult to assign the ancient name to the
port and fortress at Aliki. There are insurmount-

1 This is the harbour at the village of Ai Vlasi, and
which Wheler slept under a from thence proceeded to Pla-
pine-tree, and the next day Icea.
ascended a high mountain to

XIX. J BCEOTIA. 505
able reasons against its being Creusis, the harbour
of Thespiae. When the Lacedaemonians twice re
tired from the Thespice to the Isthmus by iEgos
thena, they are reported by the historian to have
marched on both occasions by Creusis : the first
time under the command of Cleombrotus ; and
again between seven and eight years after
wards, immediately after the defeat at Leuctra,
in which. the same Cleombrotus was slain1. A
glance at the map will suffice to show that the
route of the retiring Lacedaemonians could not have
led by Aliki, their object being to make as speedy
a retreat as possible, at the same time that they
avoided the more direct roads across Mount Cithae
ron. In order to have reached Creusis, supposing
it to have been at Aliki, they must have diverged
to the right of their line of march near Livadhostra ;
either following the steep maritime side of Mount
Korombili eastward, or making the tour of it by
Xeronomi westward, and must then have returned
by one of those routes nearly to the point in their
line of march from which they had diverged. It may
be considered certain, therefore, that Creusis was
in the bay of Livadhostra, and that the fortress and
harbour at Aliki were some other ancient place.
Leaving Pyrgo I follow the summit of the ridge,
and there being no path whatever, consume an
hour in threading my way through the rocks to
the valley, from whence, after crossing the river
which is near the foot of the mountain, we arrive
in twenty minutes at Dobrena,2, or Dobreni, and in
' Xenoph. Hellen. 1. 5, c. 4, 2 TopiirpEvd, NrofiirpEvd,
1. 6, c. 4. NrofiirpEvt.

506 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
fifteen more at Kakosia '. The distance to this place
from Xeronomi by the straight road may be about
an hour and a half.
Feb. 5. — A strong northerly wind and rain. Ka
kosia stands precisely on the site of the ancient
Thisbe, which is well described by Strabo as situ
ated at a small distance from the sea, under the
southern side of Helicon, in a district confining on
those of Thespiae and Coroneia 2. The position is
between two great summits of the mountain, now
called Karamunghi and Paleovuna. 3, which rise
majestically above the vale, clothed with trees in
the upper part, and covered with snow at the top,
but in no great quantity at present. The modern
village lies in a little hollow surrounded on all
sides by low cliffs connected with the last falls of
the mountain. The walls of Thisbe were about
a mile in circuit, following the crest of the cliffs
which surround the village ; they are chiefly pre
served on the side towards Dobrena. and the south
east. The masonry is for the most part of the
fourth order, or faced with equal layers of large,
oblong, quadrangular stones on the outside, the
interior as usual being filled with loose rubble.
On the principal height which lies towards the
mountain, and which is an entire mass of rock,
appear some reparations of a later date than the
rest of the walls, and there are many Hellenic
foundations on the face of this rock towards the
village. In the cliffs outside the walls, to the
1 KaKoaia. 3 Kapajuouyyt, IlaXato/3oi/-
2 Strabo, p. 411. rag.

XIX. J BCEOTIA. 507
north-west and south, are many sepulchral excava
tions. The primates of the village, on visiting me, in
quire whether I have found in my books any men
tion of the mode in which the place was anciently
supplied with water, and where was the spring,
their only resource at present being a well behind
the rocky height. As neither Strabo nor Pausa
nias make any mention of a fountain at Thisbe, the
inhabitants probably depended upon cisterns and
wells, which can seldom fail at the foot of such a
mountain as Helicon. The Kakosiotes, however,
instead of digging wells, have preferred spending
their money in building houses, and the same is
observable at Dobrena ; their ability to do so is
probably caused by the retired situation of the
place, and its distance from all the ordinary lines
of communication.
The port of Thisbe, which is now called Vathy,
is a beautiful little harbour surrounded by woody
hills. On the ridge looking down upon it, which
separates the plain of Thisbe from the coast, are
the remains of a Hellenic tower and station, simi
lar to that upon the ridge above Aliki, and evi
dently a fortified point and signal post on the road
from Thisbe to its port. There are said also to be
some remains of a fortress on the side of the har
bour. The modern Skala of Dobrena in Port
Vathy is called Plaka, that of Kakosia, Ai Ianni :
and there are separate roads leading to them from
either village a mile and a half across the plain,
and then over the maritime ridge. The shore of
Vathy is very rocky, and abounds in wild pigeons,

508 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
as Strabo and Stephanus have remarked \ The
geographer ascribes to the abundance of pigeons
at the harbour the epithet which Homer gives to
Thisbe 2 ; but there is no deficiency of them at
Kakosia itself, for before I had made any inquiry
on the subject, my Athenian janissary, whom I do
not suspect of having ever read the Iliad, brought
me as a present a brace of pigeons, which he had
just shot among the rocks near the village. In
the islands opposite to the harbour these birds are
said to be still more numerous than at Vathy.
The only building remarked by Pausanias at
Thisbe was a temple of Hercules, containing an
upright statue of the god in stone : a festival was
celebrated in honour of him called the Heracleia 3.
The Grecian traveller then proceeds to describe a
peculiarity in the adjacent plain, which is alone
sufficient to identify the place. " Between the
mountain on the sea side," he says, " and that at
the foot of which the town is situated, there is a
plain, which the water flowing into it would cause
to be a lake, were it not for a strong embankment 4
constructed through the middle 5, by means of
which the water is turned every year into the part
of the plain lying on one side of the causeway,
1 Strabo, p. 411. — 6 iroXirrfg ettiveiov irEpiarEp&v irXijpEg.- —
Qiaj3a"iog Kal b Xipiyv Qia/ialuiv Steph. Byzant. in Qiafiy.
&g (jtyatv 'EiraippbBEirog' Kal to
2 Koiirag, Evrpyaiv te, iroXvrprfpoivd te Qiaflyv. II. B. v. 50.
3 Pausan. Boeot. c. 32. 5 Sid pkaov.
1 X^/*" l"XvP'>r'

XIX.] BCEOTIA. 509
while that on the other side is cultivated." In
fact, the plain of Thisbe is completely surrounded
by heights, there is no issue for the river which
rises in the Ascraea and here terminates ; nor can
I even perceive the entrance of any subterraneous
channel such as frequently occurs under similar
circumstances in the calcareous formations of
Greece : if there be any, it is still, as in the time
of Pausanias, insufficient to the drainage of the
plain. The mole or causeway which he describes,
still subsists and serves, as it probably always has
done, for a road across the marsh towards the port.
It consists of solid foundations of masonry, and is
traceable nearly half across the plain, on the side
opposite to Kakosia. The river crosses the cause
way into the marsh by two openings, the closing
of which in the winter or spring would at any time
cause the upper part of the plain to be inundated,
and leave the lower fit for cultivation in the sum
mer ; but as the river is now allowed to flow con
stantly through them, the western side is always in
a state of marsh, and the ground has become much
higher on the eastern side.
Besides this work there are the remains of ano
ther above Dobrena, which the archons of Kakosia
conceive to have been constructed for the purpose
of making each division of the valley cultivable
every two years out of three, whereas the ancient
work only gave cultivation every other year. They
remark, that the inundation of any part of the
land once in three years would serve both for fal
low and manure, and would ensure constant fer-

510 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
tility to two-thirds of the valley. This second work
was between two and three miles beyond Dobrena,
in the direct road to Xeronomi, where the valley
is not more than four hundred yards wide. But
it was merely a wall composed of loose stones and
mortar, in nothing resembling the solid construction
of the ancient mole opposite to the town, except that
some squared blocks of Hellenic appearance are
seen in one part of it. It is probably of the same
period ofthe Byzantine Empire, when the churches
were built, which show this part of Bceotia to have
been at one time well peopled by Christians. The
wall has been carried away in the centre by the
stream, and could scarcely have served at any
time for the purpose imagined by the Kakosiotes,
but was rather a military separation between the
two valleys of Xeronomi and Kakosia, or in other
words, between the Thespice and Thisbaea, of
which these straits are the natural boundary. It
is very possible there may have been a Hellenic
wall here, for such barriers of separation between
districts were common among the ancients, as many
remains of them attest, and which in this instance
may have been renewed or repaired in the time of
the Lower Empire. Just above the wall a narrow
vale branches off from the main valley, and con
ducts again into it behind a hill which is thus in
sulated from Mount Helicon. The soil of all these
valleys is excellent, and produces plentiful crops of
wheat and barley ; there is a considerable space
covered with vineyards immediately below Do
brena, but the wine is bad, in consequence of the

XIX. J BCEOTIA. 511
low and moist situation, and negligent manufac
ture : a part of the marsh bears in summer kalam
bokki of both sorts.
The monastery of Makariotissa, where is a
copious source of water, which I suppose to have
been the ancient Hippocrene, is visible from the
southern side of the plain of Kakosia ; it is situ
ated on a little level half-way up the Karamunghi,
on the southern side of that summit. The road
to the monastery from the plain of Thisbe ascends
by the valley behind Dobrena.
Kakosia preserves several inscriptions, but the
name Thisbe does not occur in any of them. Two
relate to a family of the name of Brachas. One
of these is a fragment, preserving only the ending
of two elegiac couplets l, which show that a Bra
chas had erected a monument in the city. The
other, which is on a square stele, is complete, and
testifies that a brother and two sisters, named
Ulpius Brachas, Ulpia Paula, and Ulpia Hygeia,
had erected a monument according to a decree of
the council and people to their brother, M. Ulpius
Paramonus, who was son of M. Ulpius Brachas
Paramonianus, by Aurelia Arescusa, and grand
son of M. Ulpius Paramonus by Corane Paula.
On a cornice or moulding near the top of the
stele, is a line in smaller letters, implying that the
dedicators were descendants of Marcus Ulpius
1 . . . . pE Bpaxag E'iSpvaE iroXrji
 roV <j>iXa£BXov ayav
 tekvij Kal irarpiBi TEiprfv
 rtjicie icXe'oe BeoBev.
V. Inscription, No. 91.
13

512

BCEOTIA.

[chap.

Nicias, who had held the office of Bceotarch '.
An inscription which was copied at Kakosia by
Meletius, a century ago, and is no longer to be
found, related to the same family of Brachas. It
was inscribed on a monument erected to Trajan by
Marcus Ulpius Brachas Epiphanianus OiXo/caio-ap,
in conjunction with his two sons and two daugh
ters2, and is probably the most ancient of the
three inscriptions relating to the Brachae, being
cotemporary with the Emperor, from whom un
doubtedly so many of the family had assumed the
name of Ulpius and Ulpia.

1 M. OvXirlov Nei/ciow Boiio-
rapxov a'iroybvoi, M. QiXiriov
Hapd/xovov, M. OhXiriov Bpa^a
VLapafioviavov Kal AvpsXiag
'ApEaKovayg vlbv, 'iyyovov M.
OuX7r/ou napajUoVou Kal Kopd-
vyg TJavXrjg, ol dSEXfol OvXirwi
Bpaxag, HavXa, 'YyEt'a' iprfipla-
fian (iovXijg /cat Bripov. — V.
Inscription, No. 92.
In this inscription the word
iyyovog seems to be used in
the sense defined by Hesy-
chius, namely, that of vloivbg,
or vlbg vlov. Nevertheless, in
some dedications to Antoninus
Pius and Marcus Aurelius at
Taenarus, kyyovog evidently
means a step lower in descent ;
for Antoninus is there desig
nated as vioe of Adrian, vloivbg
of Trajan, and kyyovog of Ner-
va; and M. Aurelius as vlbg
of Antoninus, vloivbg of Ha

drian, 'kyyovog of Trajan, and
dirbyovog of Nerva. — See Tra
vels in the Morea, vol. i. p.
293, Inscriptions, Nos. 35, 36.
'  bv, AaKiKov, Ilap-
Bikov, virarov to ji, M.dpKog OvX-
irwg Bpaxag 'Eirifaviavbg <&iXb-
Kaiaap, Kal ol viol avrov, OiXiriog
ArffioaBkvyg, OiXiriog Kpdroiv,
/cat al BvyarkpEg, OvXirla Eh-
iropia, OvXiria Bpd^iXXa, e/c
t&v ISioiv. — Melet. Geog. T.
ii. p. 342. 8vo.
Meletius must have been
mistaken in the ji indicating
the year of Trajan's consulship,
as he was only Caesar in his
second consulship, and governor
of Germany. The inscription
is either of the year 116, or
117, as in the former Trajan
assumed the title of Parthicus,
and in the latter he died. He
had then been six times Consul.

XIX.] BCEOTIA. 513
Another inscription at Kakosia, not quite com
plete, records the construction of a house and 
to the Gods Augusti, by Tiberius Claudius Ur
banus, by his wife Claudia Philonicha and by their
two children, Urbanus and (Ulpius) at their own
expence1. The earliest Augusti were M. Aure
lius and Verus, and the form of the letters does
not indicate a later time. The monument there
fore was probably erected between the years 161
and 169 ofthe Christian aera.
The only inscribed monument at Kakosia older
than the Roman Empire, is a dedication to
Minerva, in characters of a very remote age, on
a long narrow stone, now inserted in the wall of a
private house ; at one end the engraver, miscalcu
lating the space, was obliged to end his line in a
curve 2.
At 3.45 we quit Kakosia, and soon afterwards
pass, between the marsh and the mountain,
through vineyards in which the vines are mixed
with almond trees now in blossom : — from thence
ascend the mountain, which here closes the plain,
and at 4.45 enter Khosia, or Khostia 3, contain
ing, like Kakosia and Dobrena, about 100 houses,
which are beautifully situated under the rocks of
Helicon, and dispersed among orchards of fruit-
trees, chiefly almonds. A small torrent falls in
cascades down a rocky gorge ; and in summer,
1 Ocote 2£/3uoTOt£ Kal (ry jidvog Kal 0(vXiriog) ek t&"v
7to)Xei tov oikov Kal tov .... iSioiv kiroiyaav. — V. Inscrip-
. . . Tijiypwg KXavBiog Ohp- tion, No. 93.
(idvog /c(at r) yv)vr) avrov KXav- 2 V. Inscription, No. 94.
Bla <biXo>vixa /cat ra TEKva Ohp- 3 Xoaia, Xdorta.
VOL. II. L 1

514 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
when the water is scanty, is received into a tank
in the lower part of the village, from whence
it is conducted to the vineyards and olive-trees
which cover the slope extending to the com
mencement of the plain of Thisbe. After passing
through Khosia, we enter a mountainous district
where the great counterforts of Helicon descend to
the sea, and cross one of them, the extremity of
which forms a lofty cape on the eastern side of
the bay of Sarandi \ The summit of this ridge
commands an extensive view of the Corinthiac gulf,
with the coast of the Morea, as far eastward as the
bay of Corinth, and the Acro-Corinthus. On the
western side of the bay of Sarandi rises another
ridge, still more lofty than the eastern, and mid
way between them, in a beautiful retreat just under
the woody steeps of Paleovuni, is situated a monas
tery dedicated to St. Taxiarches2, a title of the
archangel Michael, as leader of the heavenly host.
Here I halt for the night at 5.25. The house is
large, and contains numerous inmates, both monks
and laics, whose persons are as dirty as their dwel
ling. The territory of the monastery consists chiefly
of terraces on the slope of the mountain, producing
olives and corn, and which end in a small level
at the head of port Sarandi. A projection of the
mountain which advances into the middle of the
plain, about a quarter of an hour's walk below
the monastery, and a mile from the sea-side, was
the site of a small Hellenic polis.
Feb. 6. — A tabular summit formed the acro-
1 SapaVrt. 2 "Ayioc Taiidpxyg-

XIX. J BCEOTIA. 515
polis, of which the walls are still traceable, as
well as those of the town, which was situated
on the eastern slope of the height, the western
side having terminated in a precipice. Within
the enclosure are the remains of terrace-walls, and
to the south, looking towards the harbour, those
of a narrow gate. On the slope of the acropolis
towards the south, are some foundations cut in
the rock. The whole is scarcely a mile in cir
cumference. Some parts of the walls are care
lessly constructed of rough stones, fitted together
as in the first order of Hellenic masonry ; other
parts are of the second and third kind. There
can be little doubt that these are remains of Tiphae,
or Siphae, which was said to have taken its name
from Tiphys, the pilot ofthe Argonauts', and where
Demosthenes, the Athenian commander, made the
unsuccessful attempt already adverted to, which
preceded the battle of Delium. It may indeed
be objected that Thucydides and Apollonius Rho-
dius, as well as Stephanus, who probably follows
the historian, describe Siphae as a dependency of
Thespiae2, between which and Sarandi the whole
of Thisbaea is interposed, but this may perhaps be
reconciled by the superiority of Thespiae over all
the places in this angle of Bceotia, whence the
entire country lying along the Alcyonic sea, under
1 Pausan. Boeot. c. 32. kiriBaXaoaiSioi. — Thucyd. 1. 4,
2 at Sk St'^iat Ettri rijg Qeo- c. 76.
iriKijg yijg kv n3 Koiaaioi koXttio
Tirpvg S' 'AyvidSyg 'Siifyaka KaXXiirE Srjpov
QEairikoiv. Apoll. Rh. 1. 1, v. 105.
"Ziipai. . . .kirivEtov rijg QEairiaKijg. — Stephan. in —iijiai.
L 1 2

516 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
Helicon, as far as the borders of Phocis, including
Thisbe, may have often in common acceptation
been called the Thespice. Pausanias expressly de
scribes Tiphae, which was .probably the .ZEolic or
local form of the word, as being on the coast
beyond Thisbe to the westward. We learn from
the same authority that the Tiphaeenses had a
temple of Hercules, in whose honour they cele
brated a yearly festival, and that they pointed out
the place where the ship Argo anchored on its
return from Colchis1.
The steeps of Helicon above the convent are
clothed with shrubs, growing with great luxuri
ance, and among which the lentisk, the prinari,
the wild olive, and the K£§poc or juniper, are the
most abundant. These heights folding over one
another, and crowned with the great summit of
Paleovuni, covered with firs and snow, and so
high and near that it seems to overhang the
lower hills, form a scene of singular grandeur and
beauty. Leaving St. Taxiarches at 9.15, we begin to
ascend the great ridge which forms the western
cape of Port Sarandi. The road leads through a
thick forest of the shrubs, or rather trees, just
mentioned, among which the kedhri are remark
able for their uncommon size. Large tufts of
myrtle frequently occur ; and as well as the wild
olive, the arbutus and the andrachne have their
fruit still hanging on them. Of the last, Pausa
nias remarks that it produces a sweeter fruit in
1 Pausan. Boeot. c. 32.

XIX.] BCEOTIA. 517
Helicon than in any other place1. At the best,
however, they may be compared to a very insipid
strawberry, and are admissible only to the table
at a season when no other fruit is to be had, as I
have seen the berry of the myrtle in Sicily, where
that fruit attains a larger size than in Greece.
At 10.30 we arrive on the crest ofthe ridge which
terminates in a cape, known (as well as a great
part of the neighbouring district) by the name of
Velanidhia, and then descending the western slope
of the ridge, arrive at 10.54 at the monastery
of Dobo 2, which is larger than St. Taxiarches,
contains a handsome church newly painted, many
cells and chambers, and between monks and ser
vants, not less than forty inmates. Some of the
apartments are neat and clean, which cannot be
said of the inhabitants. The church is dedicated
to St. Seraphim Thaumaturgus, a Greek of large
property, who retired here not long after the
Turkish conquest, and built the monastery. His
skull, which is here deposited, is in great request
in the neighbourhood, for its wondrous power in
driving^ away all kinds of evil. The holy relic 3
has just been sent to Thebes, to put a stop to an
epidemic disorder which has made its appearance
in that town ; and it is with difficulty that I can
procure a sufficient number of mules to carry me
to St. Luke, all those belonging to the convent
being employed on that service. There are many
1 ol rijg dvSpdxvov ddpvoi 2 Aopirbv, or Nropirov.
irapkxovrai t&v iravraxov Kap- 3 to ayiov Xf.tyavov.
irov 'e"£,ei ijSiarov. — Pausan.
Boeot. u. 28.

518 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
manuscripts in the monastery, handsomely written
on parchment or vellum, but all of late date, and
all iraTtpiicd, with the sole exception of a general
history, which begins with the creation and war
of Troy, and ends with a part of the history of
Venice, and of the Turks. The author's name I
could not discover. There are said to be some
good printed editions of the classics belonging to
Dobo, but they have been sent to Livadhia for the
use of the school there.
Sending my baggage to Kyriaki by the direct
road over the mountain, I proceed thither by the
way of the sea shore, for the sake of visiting a
Hellenic site near the harbour of the monastery,
which we reach in an hour, the road descending
through hills covered with shrubs. The ruins are
those of a small fortified town, which we may
confidently name Bulis. It occupied the summit
of a rocky height which slopes on one side towards
a small harbour, and is defended in the opposite
direction by an immense /3pay,oc, or lofty rock,
separated by a torrent from the precipitous ac
clivities of Helicon. These which rise directly to
a snowy summit called Tjivri •, from a small vil
lage of that name, consist of perpendicular white
rocks, mixed with narrow natural terraces covered
with pines. The slope ofthe site of Bulis towards
the sea is cultivated, and contains a house belong
ing to Dobo, , below which there is a level on the
shore two thirds of a mile broad, and a magazine
which was built by the monks when they owned a
boat ; but of this convenience, so important to
1 T«j3P«.

xix.J phocis. 519
them, as there is no easy access to the place but
by sea, they are now deprived. The port is called
Zalitza ; between it and Cape Velanidhia is a
similar inlet of the sea, named Mazeri, around
which are some pastures belonging to Zeriki, or
Zeritza, a village on Mount Helicon, and serving
for its flocks in winter. The Paleokastro has some
handsome pieces of wall of the third order remain
ing, and seems to have been rather larger than
the ancient town at St. Taxiarches.
Although Pausanias places his remarks on
Bulis in his Phocics, he seems hardly to have
accounted it a city of Phocis, since he describes
it as bordering upon that province -. He con
sidered it, perhaps, as a neutral town, from
having been colonized by Dorians under Bulon.
Stephanus, Pliny and Ptolemy, however, all attri
bute Bulis to Phocis 2. Pausanias describes it as
occupying a lofty site, conspicuous to those who
sail from Anticyra to Lechaeum, and as distant
seven stades from the sea, eighty stades from
Thisbe, and one hundred stades from Anticyra,
all which computations will be found tolerably
correct, applied to this site. He notices the re
markable torrent which here joins the sea, and
which was named Heracleius; there was also a
fountain, Saunium 3, which I have not discovered,
1 TV yV TV ^UK'°' bpopog. — BaXaaaav ravry xc^Pap'pog bv
Pausan. Phocic. c. 37. ol kirixoipioi bvopd£ovaiv "tlpa-
2 Stephan. in BovXig. Plin. kXeIov  /cat irrjyr) Bov-
H. N. 1. 4, c. 3. Ptolem. 1. 3, XiBiotg karl KaXovpiEvov Xaiiviov.
c. 15. — Pausan. Phocic. c. 37.
3 KarEitrt Bk /cat irorapbg kg

520 BCEOTIA. [CHAP.
perhaps from not having sufficiently searched
for it. The murex, producing the purple dye,
the fishery of which employed half the people
of Bulis in the time of Pausanias, is no longer
caught on this coast, though assuredly it still
exists here. The deity chiefly worshipped by the
Bulidii was named Megistus, meaning Jupiter.
The city contained likewise temples of Diana
and of Bacchus, with statues of those deities in
wood. Having ascertained the ancient positions of Siphae
and Bulis, I shall revert to the inquiry as to the
ancient name of the fortress and harbour, now
called Aliki. The only authors who afford us any
assistance in this question are Scylax and Pliny,
and the extreme corruption of the text of the for
mer renders him a most doubtful guide. Proceed
ing along the coast from west to east, he names
Corsiae, Siphae, the harbour Eutretus, a fortress Boe-
thon, and then iEgosthena of the Megaris. This is
the vulgar reading, but some of the commentators
have changed Corsiae into Creusia, and Boethon
(o BoyOHiv) into twv Boiwrwv -. The rejection of the
word Corsiae is founded on Pausanias, who places
Corsiae near the northern shore of Bceotia, and
partly on the improbability of Scylax having
omitted Creusis, which was the chief harbour on
the southern coast of this province. There is
reason however to believe from Pliny, that there
* Metci Be <boiKElg Boioirol si- (t&v Boioit&v,) b irapdirXovg Sk
aiv tBvog Kal iroXEig aioV Kop- TygBoioirlagrjpiav r)pkpag kXar-
aiai (Kpsovaia) St^iat Kal Xipr)v tov. — Scylax in Boioirol.
Eirpyrog /cat rEt^oe 6 BoyB&v,

XIX. J BCEOTIA. 521
really existed a second Corsiae in this part of
Bceotia, and that it was distinguished from the
other by the name of Thebae Corsicae, in which
case the similarity of name seems to point out the
modern Khosia as the successor of Thebae Cor
sicae, its situation just below the highest summit
of Helicon, according moreover with Pliny's words,
juxta Heliconem \ On this supposition, the ar
rangement of the names by Scylax is not incorrect,
whereas if we read Kptovala for Kopo-iat, we must
suppose Scylax to have placed Creusia the first
name on the coast, when it ought to have been the
last. By the port Eutretus, there is some appearance
that Scylax intended the harbour of Thisbe, which
may have received the name of Eutretus from the
numerous cavities in the rocks, where pigeons
still breed in immense numbers, as Strabo re
marked. It would then follow, that the t£iy_oc, or
fortress of Boeotians, which is the next place in
the arrangement of Scylax, was that still existing
at Aliki, the name of which may have been lost
by the corruption of the text.
But there is still another interpretation which
may be given to this passage of Scylax. We
learn from Strabo, that Eutresis, one of the Ho
meric towns of Bceotia, was in his time a village
1 Dein in ultimo sinu an- hoc mari Bceotiae oppidum
gulus Bceotia? alluitur cum Pagse unde Peloponnesi pro-
oppidis Siphis, Thebis quae silit cervix. — Plin. H. N. 1. 4,
Corsicae cognominatae sunt, c. 3.
juxta Heliconem. Tertium ab

522 BCEOTIA. [chap.
of the Thespice *. Stephanus places it between
Thespiae and Plataea 2, but his information may be
doubted, as there is but one place in the ten miles
between Plataea and Thespiae where any town is
likely to have stood, and that was occupied by
Leuctra. There is some reason therefore for think
ing that the QeairiHiv of Stephanus ought to be
9io-j3wv, that Eutresis was a Kwpy of the Thespice in
the road from Thisbe to Plataea, and that the vale
of Xeronomi was its territory, for it seems clear
that this valley belonged to the Thespice, and not
to the Thisbaea, which latter, considering the rela
tive importance of the two cities, one cannot con
ceive to have extended beyond the narrow place
before described in the valley of Dobrena, across
which there was formerly a wall. In this view of
the question it seems not improbable that the ruins
at Aliki are those of the fortress of the Eutresitae,
and that the Hellenic remains at Xeronomi be
longed to the temple of Apollo Eutresites, men
tioned by Stephanus, which may have been con
verted by successive repairs into the ancient
church now remaining there. And in this case it
is also possible that the words o Xiprjv Evrpyrog Kal
1 . . . Evrprfaiv . . . K&piov Kal Upbv avrov /cat /xavTEWV
Qsairikoiv' kvravBd <f>aai ZijBov kvSo^orarov. — Stephan. in Eii-
Kal 'Apijtiova oiKijaai irplv jiaai- rpyaig.
XE\iaaiQyji&v. — Strabo, p. 411. The plural termination of
2 KEtrai irapd rr)v bSbv ek Thisbe is justified by Xeno-
QEairi&v Eig nXaratas dirdyov- phon, 1. 6, c. 4. ; by Stephanus
crav, fjv ETEixiaE ZijBog /cat 'Ap- in Qlafiy, and by Strabo, p.
iptoiv . . . b Kwpr'irrfg Ehrpyairrig 411, who says, 'H Be Qiajirf,
dip' ov b 'AirbXXtov Ehrpyatryg" Qiafiai vvv Xkyovrai.

xix. J phocis. 523
th^oc rwv Boiwtwv are all to be referred to the
harbour and ruins at Aliki.
Having quitted the Paleokastro of Zalitza at 2,
we cross the torrent, pass under a singular sharp
insulated rock, upon which are some remains of
ancient terraces, and continue to follow the side of
the rocky mountain by a road overhanging the sea.
On the right towards the summit of the heights,
are churches of St. Theodore and St. Anthony,
but not in sight. These, like the monasteries of
St. Michael and Dobo are remains of the eremiti
cal and monastic establishments which peopled
these woody deserts in the time of the Byzantine
empire. The hills are chiefly covered with wild
olive, ilex, holly-oak, and juniper of a large
growth. The oaks would furnish an abundance
of useful timber, but at present, like the others,
they serve chiefly to supply fire-wood to the towns
on the gulf. As we proceed, the hills become
very steep, and terminate precipitously in the sea,
affording only an extremely rugged and difficult
path along the side of them : it was no better in
the time of the Roman Empire, for Pausanias
doubted whether there was any road at all from
Anticyra to Bulis 1, though more anciently there
was a communication, as Cleombrotus marched
this way from Chaeroneia with a large army just
before the battle of Leuctra, in order to avoid an
'Eg Sk rr)v BovXiv e/c jxev olSa' ovroi Bvajiara Spy Kal
rijg Botoiriag Qiafiyg araBioiv rpaxka rd pEra^v 'AvriKvpag
eotIv bSbg bySor/Kovra, e£ 'Avrt- te karl /cat BovXiBog. — Pausan.
Kvpag Sk rrjg <3>w/ceW Si rfirEipov Phocic. c. 37.
fiEv Kal e'i dpxr)v kanv, ovk

524 phocis. [chap.
encounter with Epaminondas in the passes of
Tilphossium and Haliartus on the direct route 1.
At 4 we turn off from the sea-shore, and ascend
the ridge which borders the sea, in a direction
forming a right angle with our former route.
The summit commands an extensive view of the
Corinthiac gulf, and of all the northern part of
the Morea from Corinth to Mount Voidhia. ; the
gulf of Aspra Spitia also presents itself surrounded
by steep, barren ridges, which exhibit an appear
ance almost as dismal as any part of Dalmatia,
or Albania. Inland in every direction appear the
snowy fir-clad summits of Parnassus and Helicon.
Not far from the place where we quitted the coast
a high rocky cape extends into the sea, beyond
which the coast retires as far as Punda, a cape on
the south eastern side of the gulf of Aspra Spitia,
opposite to which on the north-western shore is
the peninsula of Kefali. Having crossed two high
stony ridges, we arrive at 6.10 at Kyriaki, situated
in the heart of the mountains under the last of
the snowy summits of Mount Helicon. Half way
from the sea we passed on our left a little level on
the sea-side, where is a port called Aghia., be
longing to the monastery of St. Luke, while at
the same time on the right I perceived the road
from Dobo to Kyriaki, leading through a hollow
between two of the highest points of Mount Tzivri!
Our baggage was upwards of four hours in coming
by this road, having passed a great part of the
way through snow, which in some places was
2 Xenoph. Hellen. 1. 6, c. 4. — Diodor. 1. 15, c. 54.

xix. J phocis. 525
three feet in depth. The greater part of it was
collected yesterday and in the preceding night,
when it was raining at St. Taxiarches, but the
snow fell as we crossed the higher parts of the
ridges between that place and Dobo.

CHAPTER XX.

phocis.

Kyriaki — Mount Helicon — Palea-khora — Monastery of St.
Luke of Stiris — Stiris and its fountain — Ambrysus — Metokhi
Sto Ialo — Sidhiro-kafkhio — Aspra Spitia — Anticyra — Mount
Cirphis — Dhesf ina — Medeon — Marathus — Cape Pharygium
— Mychus — Parnassia Nape — River Pleistus — Delphi — Its
topography, antiquities, inscriptions, &c.
Kyriaki is a village of 30 families belonging to the
district of Livadhia, situated on the north-western
side of Mount Tzivri in a small hollow cultivated
chiefly with vines, and surrounded closely on all
sides by fir-clad summits of the Heliconian range.
The valley is very cold and humid in the present
season. A torrent runs through the village,
which, uniting with others a little below St. Luke,
joins the sea at Sidhero-kafkhio in the gulf of
Aspra Spitia.
Pausanias says, that of all the mountains in
Greece Helicon is the most fertile, and abounds
the most in trees '. Though he may be correct
in the main, the western extremity differs in cha
racter from the other summits. The Muses natu
rally preferred the gentler slopes, the springs, and
1 'O c?e 'EXikwc bp&v t&v kv kanv si/yEwe /cat BkvBpuiv avd-
t7] 'EXXa'cii kv ro'ig pdXiard irXEoig. — Pausan. Boeot. c. 28.
13

chap. xx. J phocis 527
groves, and smiling valleys to the eastward. Here
the barren and terrific prevail over the beautiful
and fertile : the higher parts consist of rocks inter
mixed with pine-trees, while the lower roots par
take of the naked barrenness of the neighbouring
Cirphis, a mountain which is almost entirely of this
character. But even on this side of Helicon some
pleasant valleys are interspersed among the rocks.
In summer the woods and verdant pastures of Heli
con contrast most agreeably with the parched plains
of Boeotia ; and if industry were protected, all the
cultivable parts of the mountain would speedily be
embellished by fields and gardens, villages and
houses, offering delightful retreats in summer, in
stead of merely furnishing pasture to the flocks
when they retire in that season from the arid
plains. The only villages at present in the upper
regions of the mountain, including the divisions of
it anciently called Laphystium and Libethrium,
are Tzara, Surbi, Granitza, Zagara, Steveniko,
Zeriki, Tzivri, and Kukora.
Strabo describes Helicon as equal to Parnas
sus both in height and perimeter 1. In the latter
he may be correct, if we consider Parnassus
as bounded by the Nape of Delphi to the south,
and on the western side by the ravine which ex
tends from Cytinium to Amphissa, but in regard to
the height the geographer was certainly mistaken,
as Liakura is some hundreds of feet higher than
Paleovuna, which is the highest point of the Heli-
1 'O fiEV ovv 'EXik&v oh iroXv iii//os Kal irEpipErpov. — Strabo,
cUEOTTj/cizc: tov Hapvaaov kvd- p. 409.
ptXKbg kanv ekeivoi /caret te

528 phocis. [chap.
con. In the quantity of cultivable land Parnassus
may rival Helicon, as there is nothing upon the
latter which can be compared in extent to the
upper Parnassian plains containing Aguriani, the
Corycian cave, and the Kalyvia of Arakhova ; but
Helicon in general is more ivyEwe,, as Pausanias
describes it, and better clothed with a productive
soil, the Parnassian plain just mentioned being
poor and gravelly, though in some parts barley is
grown and even wheat.
Feb. 7. — At a distance of thirty-five minutes from
Kyriaki, a peaked summit bordering the valley on
the north retains a piece of ancient wall; and in the
descent of the pass to the right of this hill, which
leads from the vale of Kyriaki into that of Stiri, are
some other remains ofthe same kind, and an excava
tion in the rock. The pointed hill was probably the
site of a dependent come of the Stiritis, and the
pass may have been fortified on account of its im
portance as one of the approaches to Stiris from
Boeotia. Continuing to descend by a bad road,
we enter, in forty minutes, the valley of Stiri, and
in fifteen more arrive at the Palea khora, a height
so called in the centre of the valley, and which
has every appearance of an ancient site, being a
tabular hill defended by precipitous rocks, and
situated at the junction of two streams. The sum
mit is surrounded with a wall of loose construction,
resembling in some parts the first kind of Hel
lenic masonry, though with much smaller stones
than the Cyclopes used. No citadel is traceable,
but the surface of the rock within the inclosure is
excavated in many places for habitations, and

xx. J phocis. 529
there are two or three ancient cisterns near a
ruined church. The height is between seven
and eight hundred yards long, lying in a direc
tion of N.E. and S.W., and not more than one
hundred yards broad in the widest part. A lower
rocky summit of the same height to the south-west
was not included within the ancient walls. The
torrent of Kyriaki is joined at that extremity of the
hill by another which comes from the neighbour
hood of Zeriki ; and which, after having received
several tributaries in the valley of Stiri, flows along
the northern, side of Palea khora. All these tor
rents are dry in summer. Zeriki is situated between
two of the summits of Helicon, called Gdhameni l
and Kolles 2. On the northern side of the latter
is the village of Surbi, not far from Livadhia.
From the Palea khora, a quarter of an hour's
ride in a N.W. direction, brings me to the monas
tery of St. Luke of Stiris3, which stands on the
side of a peaked hill advancing into the valley.
This height also was fortified by the ancients ;
some of the foundations still remain on the sum
mit, others are seen a little below the monastery,
as well as to the north-east of it, where an angle
of the Hellenic wall is still standing, and the
monastery itself is in great part built of ancient
materials. The fortress was of the triangular form,
common among the ancients ; the two sides which
descend from the angle at the summit of the hill
follow two ridges which inclose a hollow between

1 rSafdvr]. s "Aytoe Aov/cas 6 Srtptrije.
2 KdXXais.
VOL. II. M m

530 phocis. [chap.
them. To the south the height is precipitous. The
walls seem to have been much more carefully con
structed than those of the Palea. khora : the ma
sonry is partly of the third order and partly of re
gular courses. Though the hill narrows towards
the base of the triangle, the circumference of the
fortress was greater than that of Palea khora, and
the monks believe it to have been Stiris. But
it could hardly have been the Stiris which Pau
sanias describes, because there is a copious foun
tain within the walls of the monastery issuing from
the side of the hill, whereas Pausanias says of
Stiris that " it was situated on a stony height, where
the wells were few and supplied only water fit for
washing or the use of cattle ; and that the inha
bitants brought water for drinking from a place
four stades below the city, where was a descent to
a source excavated among the rocks V On the
other hand, it is not easy to reconcile the source at
the monastery with that which Pausanias men
tions, the distance from the Palea khora to the
monastery being greater than four stades, and
there being instead of a descent, an ascent, to the
fountain, almost equal in height to the descent
from the Palea. khora. The only other source in
the valley of Stiris is a well to the south-westward
of Palea khora ; but instead of being in a hollow
among rocks, it rises to the surface of the culti
vated part of the valley, and instead of being four
stades, is not more than one and a half from the
ancient site. An inscription, however, in the
1 Pausan. Phocic. c. 35.

xx. J phocis. 531
outer wall of the church, leaves little doubt that
the adjoining fountain was that intended by Pau
sanias. Of this inscription there remain about
two-thirds, which was more than I expected to
find, as Chandler remarks only that it had been
seen by Wheler, and supposed apparently that it
no longer existed in his own time. It resembles
that at Thisbe, which records the dedication of a
building at that place to the gods Augusti and to
the city, attesting in like manner the dedication
to the gods Augusti and to the city of a icpyvy, or
constructed fountain, with steps, and a covered
building, and a conduit of water which had been
made at the expence of the dedicators Xenocrates
and Eumaridas \ The word fiaQpol in the inscrip
tion accords with the KaTiovrzc, of Pausanias, and
the rocks from which the source issues, with his
wtTpaic,2. If the descent to the water is not now
such as both Pausanias and the inscription seem to
imply, that may easily be accounted for by an
alteration in the ground, caused by the erection
of the monastery. The word iroXu, though at first
sight it seems to favour the opinion of the monks
of St. Luke, is not adverse to either supposition, as
1 The following is a copy of been omitted by the lithogra-
the inscription after supplying pher near the end of the first
the ends of the lines from Spon line.
and Wheler : GeoTc- 2£/3a<rroi£ " to Be vBoip ol avBponroi to
Kal ry ndXsi rr)v Kprjvyv /cat ra ironpov oaov crrdSta rkaaapa
irpog rovg paBpovg, Kal rb kirol- viroKarajiatvovTEg Xapjidvovaiv
kiov ISEvoKparyg /cat EhfiapiSag e/c iryyijg' if Be kv Trkrpaig karlv
dvkByKav e/c t&v ISioiv Kal rr)v bpoipvypkvr) /cat apwrat /cart-
tov iSarog Elaayoiyr\v. — V. 6vtes kg rr)v iryyr/v  Pausan.
Inscription No. 95. An I has Phocic. c. 35.
M m 2

532 phocis. [chap.
the fountain was a mere dependency of the city.
Upon the whole, therefore, I believe that the
height in the valley at the confluence of the two
torrents is justly called the Palea. khora, or old
town, and that the fountain is that which the Sti-
ritae made use of; but that, from the fault either
of Pausanias or of his text, the distance of the
fountain from the city is not correct, and he has
omitted to describe the fountain as situated on the
side of a hill. The ancient walls on this height are
perhaps those of a fortress built by the Stiritae, as
well for the sake of occupying this commanding
height as for that of protecting the fountain, and
which Pausanias may not have noticed because it
may have been already ruined before his time.
The people of Stiris considered themselves a
colony of the demus -Wzipitie, in Attica, who settled
here under Peteus, when he was driven out of At
tica by vEgeus1. The city partook of the severe
punishment inflicted upon the Phocians by Philip,
son of Amyntas, at the end of the Sacred War,
B.C. 346, but as generally occurred in regard to
the cities of Greece, which history represents to
have been destroyed, the inhabitants, after having
been dispersed for a short time in the villages, re
turned to the old site.. Stiris still preserved some
population when Pausanias travelled, but it con
tained no public monument worthy of remark, ex
cept a temple of Ceres Stiritis made of crude brick,
in which were two statues, one of Pentelic marble,

1 Ot Sk kvravBd ipaat, says Pausanias, as if he did not credit
the story.

xx.J phocis. 533
the other of ancient fabric, and enveloped with
sashes or bandages1. The Igumenos of St. Luke
wishes to persuade me that the monastery was
built by the same architects who afterwards erected
St. Sophia at Constantinople. Wheler and Chan
dler met with abbots more intelligent, and who knew
that the building was not founded till about the
year 960 by Romanus the Second, in honour of
a hermit of Stiris of the name of Luke, whose
history has been related by Chandler. The
church, however, certainly resembles that of St.
Sophia J>c piicpdv piydXip, being built in the form
of a Greek cross, with a vestibule and three doors
at the western end : a dome in the centre, and
upper galleries supported by columns on the sides.
The length of the nave, from the inner door to the
skreen of the altar, is 46 feet ; the 0oAoc, or dome,
is 31 feet in diameter : some fine slabs of verd an
tique are seen in the pavement and walls. There
are 130 men, 62 horses, and 23 mules, attached
to the monastery, which possesses two metokhis,
one at Patra and the other on the sea-side, at
Sidhiro-kafkhio. To my inquiry for manuscripts
and books, they reply that every thing of that sort
was burnt by the archicleft Andritzo. Whether
this be true, or rather, as I suspect, partly true,
and partly used as an excuse to conceal what is
left, it is evident, at least, that the house has suf
fered from some such cause since the time of
Chandler, for I can learn no tidings of the Iambic
verses hung up in a frame in the church, which
Chandler copied and published. The building
1 raiviaig.

534 phocis. [chap.
bears strong marks also of having been shaken by
earthquakes, which are not unfrequent here ; and
a great fissure in the dome is known to have been
caused by one of these convulsions.
The valley of Stiris affords a beautiful contrast
to the rocks and woods of the lofty and rugged
summits which surround it. Unlike some of the
basins of the Morea similarly encased, which have
not a tree, or shrub, or hedge in them, and are
such perfect levels as to resemble lakes, this vale
is enlivened by rising grounds, and a great variety
of vegetation. Although not more than two or three
miles in diameter, the surface is diversified with na
tural pasture, corn-fields now green, and vineyards
still quite brown, mixed with copses of holly-oak,
and ilex, or with olives and cypresses. To the pecu
liar shape and colour of the two latter trees, which
contrast so agreeably with all others, the scenery
of Greece is much indebted for its beauty in all
seasons. At present those trees, with the two
species of oak just mentioned, and the smaller
evergreens which prevail in all the retired valleys
and sheltered situations, particularly the lentisk
and myrtle, enliven the winter scene in a manner
unknown among the woods of Northern Europe.
One kind of pirnari 1 grows to the size of the com
mon oak on the hills around the valley of Stiris,
as well as in other parts of the Heliconian ridges,
but there are two other varieties of it, one of which
is a large shrub, the other a small low bush ; this
last is the kokkoc, of Pausanias, which he justly
1 7rpirapi, from H. irpXvog, Quercus Coccifera, more vulgarly
Trtpcapi, or irovpvdpi.

xx. J phocis. 535
compares to the ayjvog, or lentisk, and describes as
abounding in the district of Ambrysus, and as pro
ducing an insect used for dying wool1. The insect
is found on every kind of pirnari, though of course
it is not so easily gathered from the larger trees.
The ilex with smooth leaves2, which abounds here,
as it generally does in the woods of Greece, and
which is called aria in the Morea, is here known
by the name of aglami3.
Above the heights which bound the vale of
Stiris on the north-west, and separate it from the
valley of Dhistomo, rises the bare and rocky Cir-
phis, which is itself overtopped, by the majestic
summits of Liakura, painful to behold, from the
dazzling whiteness of the recent fall of snow, and
receiving an apparent increase of height and dimi
nution of distance from that clearness of atmosphere
which in Greece generally attends fair weather in
winter. There are two roads from St. Luke to the Gulf
of Aspra Spitia : one by the metokhi at Sidhiro-
kafkhio, more commonly called Sto Ialo4; the
other more circuitous, which passes from the
north-western extremity of the valley of St. Luke
through a defile to Dhistomo, the site of the ancient
Ambrysus. Having visited this place on a former
journey, I prefer the route by the metokhi.
The remains of Ambrysus are too inconsider-
1 Pausan. Phocic. c. 36. 2 Onerous ilex.
He remarks that the Gauls of 3 ayXdpi.
Phrygia call this shrub vg, that ' arb yiaXbv, at the sea.
is, houx, the modern French
name of the prinus.
13

536 phocis. [chap.
able to illustrate the description which Pausa
nias has given of its double wall, built by the
Thebans against Philip, son of Amyntas, and
which Pausanias considered the strongest defen
sive work in Greece, next to the fortification of
Messene1, though the walls were only about four
teen feet high, and five feet thick, with a distance
between them of a little more than five feet2. The
town was situated at the southern foot of Mount
Cirphis, in a small valley giving rise to the stream
called Platania, which joins the Cephissus in the
plain of Chaeroneia. The long valley of this river
furnished an easy access from that plain to Am
brysus, nor is the other approach to it from Stiris
difficult, though both might be perilous routes for
an army if the country were hostile, particularly
the former, from the length of the narrow valley.
It appears from Pausanias that there was a more
direct road from Chaeroneia into the vale of Stiris
across the mountains, for he conducts his reader
from Chaeroneia to Stiris, and from Stiris to Am
brysus, and remarks that the road from Chaeroneia
to Stiris was rugged, and for the most part moun
tainous3. At 2.15 we proceed from the monastery to its
metokhi " by the sea." The road leaves the plain
at its south-western end, and at 2.45 enters a nar
row opening, through which the torrent, formed by
1 Pausan. Messen. c. 31. Daulis, and the Schiste to
2 Phocic. c. 36. Delphi, Ircpa rpaxsTa' te bSbg
3 There are two roads, he /cat opEivr) ra irXkova kg irbXiv
says, from Chaeroneia into Qoikeoiv -ripiv.
Phocis : one by Panopeus,

xx. J phocis. 537
the joint waters of the valleys of Kyriaki and of
Stiri, makes its way, bordered on either side by
precipices of white rock, among which grow a few
junipers and wild olives. The road frequently
crosses the torrent, and follows alternately either
bank, until at 4 it enters a valley included between
two steep and rocky mountains, and covered with
olive plantations and corn-fields. At 4. 15 we arrive
at the metokhi, which consists only of two apart
ments ; one with a fire-place in the middle, and a
wooden ledge round the wall for the Kalogheri to
sleep upon ; the other containing an oil mill and a
press, with stables for the mules used in the mill
and farm. The monks cultivate the corn and
olives, gather in the harvest, and make the oil.
The mill is nothing more than a cylindrical stone,
turned by means of a horse or mule yoked at one
end of a lever, the other end of which is fixed in
the centre of the stone. The olives thus bruised
are put into baskets and pressed. In the evening
a ten minutes' ride conducts me from the metokhi
to the sea, where are some remains of a Hellenic
fortress, crowning a rocky promontory at the north
ern end of the beach in which the plain terminates.
The road from the metokhi to Aspra Spitia leads
through a narrow pass between the promontory and
the mountains which border the vale of the me
tokhi to the northward. The wall of the fortress
remains in good preservation on the northern side
of the hill, where in some places it still exists to
more than half the original height: on the other
sides it is hardly traceable, but within the enclo
sure there are some terrace walls, one particularly,

538 phocis. [chap.
which is a fine specimen of polygonal masonry,
verging to a more regular kind. On the road
side, at the foot of the promontory, is a heap of
ruins near the shore, consisting of some ancient
blocks in situ, covered with the remains of a
church, among which is a capital of white marble
of indifferent execution. There seems to have
been an ancient tower here which had been
converted into a church. The promontory and
ruin, as well as an anchorage for boats within
the cape, are named Sidhiro-kafkhio I, mean
ing a place where iron has been smelted, though
there is not at present any appearance or tradition
of such works having existed here. The summit
of the promontory commands a good * view of the
Gulf of Aspra Spitia with the cultivated lands
surrounding it, of the promontory Kefali on the
opposite side of the Gulf, and of the coast of
Phocis, as far as Cape Trakhila. Opposite to
the latter, on the eastern side of the gulf, is seen
Cape Punda, which is the extremity of Mount Ver-
seniko ; beyond it are the inlet and port called
Aghia., and then the rugged falls of the same
mountain extending to the place where I quitted
the coast coming from Dobo. The little vale of
the metokhi, watered by the river of Stiris, sepa
rates Mount Verseniko from the equally rocky and
forbidding heights which lie between this valley
and that of St. Luke, and which extend westward
as far as the vale of Dhistomo, and to a narrow7
pass which leads up to that place from the gulf.
1 "SiiBypo-Kavxibv .

xx.J phocis. 539
Feb. 8. — Having returned to Sidhiro-kafkhio, I
pass at 8.15 through the opening which separates
the promontory from the mountain on the right,
and continue along the rocky foot of the latter,
near the sea-side, till 9.5, when we arrive on the
beach at the extremity of a little valley, which is
the entrance of the pass already mentioned, as
leading from the sea to Dhistomo. In this direc
tion appears one of the summits of Cirphis, now
called Xero-vuni l, covered with snow. That
named Somalesi2, which was seen from the vale of
Stiris, is more to the southward, near Dhesfina, be
yond which village a part of the same range, called
Xeroghianni 3, projects into the sea, and termi
nates in Cape Trakhila. Finding here some Kefa-
loniote fishermen about to haul their seine, I
remain to wait the event, in hopes of a purple
murex, or some fish with an ancient name ; and
not quite without success to me, though with
little to the fishermen, who besides a few kala-
makia 4, or cuttle-fish, catch only two or three of
a small species of herring, the name of which,
paplStc,, cannot but be Hellenic 5. The chief mar
ket for the fish caught in this gulf is Livadhia.
Proceeding at 9.30 along the shore of the gulf, we
cross the extremity of a root of Mount Cirphis, and
arrive in a little cultivated plain and slope, where
on a hill on the right are the remains of Aspra
Spitia (the white houses), once a considerable
village, but now only a small dependence on
1 >E<Epo(iovvi. * KaXapaKi, ink-fish.
2 SuipaXkai. 5 The apapig is mentioned
3 &Epoyiavvi. by Aristotle, 1. 8, c. 30.

540 phocls. [chap.
Dhesfina. The baggage mules which set out with
us from the metokhi arrive at Aspra Spitia at
10.20, and continue their route to Dhesfina, while
I visit a spot towards the head of the bay, where,
among olive plantations, are some ancient founda
tions sufficient to indicate a Hellenic site, though
as building materials are often carried away from
hence by sea to the neighbouring coasts, in a few
years probably there will hardly be a vestige of
antiquity left. Half a mile farther south is the
high peninsula named Kefali. It is connected
with the main by a level isthmus which is cul
tivated with corn and olives, and on the south
ern side forms the head of a harbour named Ai
Isidhoro (St. Isidore), where on a rocky projection
at the south-eastern corner of the bay are the
remains of a castle built with small stones and
mortar. To the left, on the side of this peninsular
mountain, are some ancient catacombs in the
rock. From hence as far as Xeropigadho in the
plain of Salona, all the shore, with the excep
tion of a few cultivated hollows on the sea-side,
is rugged and mountainous ; the entire promon
tory, as far inland as the Pleistus, belongs to
Dhesfina. One of the small maritime valleys just
mentioned is situated within Cape Trakhila, and
is in sight from Ai Isidhoro as well as from
Sidhiro-kafkhio. It is called Prosako, and be
tween it and Ai Isidhoro are two long narrow
inlets, named Steno and Valto. Steno is said to
be a good port, and to be frequented by vessels
of considerable burthen. Karindria is a cultivated
spot beyond Cape Trakhila, similar to Prosako.

xx.] phocis- 541
In the entrance of the gulf of Aspra Spitia are
three islands, two towards Aghia, the other to the
westward, not far from Cape Trakhila. On the
middle one, named Dhaskalio, as well as on the
westernmost, Tzarukhi, are remains of walls, cis
terns, arches, and houses, constructed of small
stones and mortar.
Having returned to the village of Aspra Spitia,
I there find an inscribed marble, serving to prove
that the remains near the sea are those of Anti
cyra, which Livy and Pausanias sufficiently show
to have stood in some part of this gulf1. The
marble is said to have been originally found among
the fields near the sea, where it lay for many
years by the side of a well, and served the women
to beat their clothes upon in washing them, by
which means the greater part of the letters had
been obliterated, when it was brought up to the
village two years since. There still remains
enough to show that it was a record of the rights
of proxenia granted to strangers by the people of
Anticyra2. Although like the other Phocian
cities, Anticyra was for a time dismantled and
abandoned at the end of the Sacred War, it had
survived many of the other cities of Phocis in the
time of the Roman empire, an advantage which it
1 Liv. 1. 32, c. 18. — Pausan. irpoSiKlav, laoiroXireiav, (lyKry-
Phocic. c. 36. aiv yag teat) o'lKiag Kal raXXa
2 " Apxovrog KaXXiarpdrov, rlpia, baa Kal ro'ig aXXote irpo-
ypappOTEvovrog Be tov aw- £kvoig /cat Et/EpyE'ratg rag iroXiog
ESpiov  eSo^e virapxEi' kyyvot rag irpolfviag
TCJ. ttoXei t&v 'AvTiKvpkoiv BbpEV .... 'Hpa/cXst'ciac; Sevo-
'HpaKXkotvi &evokpitov 'Afi- Kp . . — V. Inscription,
jipvaalio, avr& (/cat EKybvoig) No. 96.
irpo^Evlav, aavXiav, daipdXsiav,

542 phocis. [chap.
chiefly owed to its situation on this sheltered gulf,
and its importance as a point of communication
with the interior. It was besieged and taken in
the year b.c. 198, by the Consul T. Quinctius
Flamininus, when after having forced his way
through Epirus into Thessaly by defeating Philip
at the Aoi Stena, he was repulsed at Atrax, which
caused him to proceed into Phocis for winter
quarters, where he took Anticyra for the sake of
its harbour and the convenient situation for com
municating by land with Thessaly1. These attri
butes of Anticyra are exemplified on other occasions
in ancient history2, and exactly accord with modern
experience, there being no place in the Corinthiac
gulf more frequented than Aspra Spitia as a point
of passage, in consequence of its central position
and the excellence of the harbour. In ancient times
Anticyra was chiefly celebrated for the production
and preparation of the best hellebore in Greece, —
a medicine to which the ancients attached an
absurd value, many persons even coming from a
distance to reside at Anticyra for the sake of a
more perfect cure 3. According to Pausanias,
there were two kinds growing in the district, of
1 Itaque relicta obsidione, tiumque locis, abibant, et ex
quia nullus in tota Acarnaniae adverso Peloponnesum exiguo
atque iEtobae ora portus erat, maris spatio divisam, ab tergo
qui simul et omnes onerarias, iEtoliam Acarnaniamque ab
quae commeatum exercitui por- lateribus Locridem ac Boeotiam
tabant caperet, et tecta ad habebant. — Liv. ubi sup.
hibernandum legionibus prae- 2 Polyb. 1. 18, c. 28 ; 1. 27,
beret, Anticyra in Phocide c. 14.
in Corinthium versa sinum, ad 3 diroSypE'iv BEvpo iroXXovg
id opportunissime sita visa : KaBdpaEoig /cat BEpairstag xaP"/-
quia nee procul Thessalia, hos- — Strabo, p. 418.

xx. J phocis. 543
which the root of the black was used as a cathar
tic, and that of the white as an emetic.
Several of the ancient authors, or rather perhaps
their copyers and commentators, have confounded
this Anticyra with another of the same name in
Locris. When the Romans were allied with the
iEtolians against Philip, (in the year b. c. 210,)
Laevinus, the Roman praetor, besieged Anticyra of
Locris, both by land and sea. The town stood so
near the shore that the praetor brought the engines
on board the ships to bear upon the walls, and in
a few days became by these means master of the
place, which he delivered to the iEtolians \ The
historian, whose description is the more worthy of
attention as having been taken from Polybius,
represents Anticyra as being a town of Locris,
situated on the left in entering the Corinthiac
gulf, and at a short distance, both by land and
sea, from Naupactus. It is evident that such a
description will not suit the Anticyra which stood
at Aspra Spitia ; for this town was in Phocis, as
Livy himself states in the former passage just
cited ; it was even nearer to the borders of Bceotia
than of Locris, — nearer to the inner extremity
than to the entrance of the Corinthiac gulf, — and
instead of being near Naupactus, it was separated
from that place by sixty miles of a very rugged
and difficult country. The place therefore taken
by Laevinus, and given up to the iEtolians, was
evidently not the Anticyra which stood at Aspra
Spitia, but a town towards the western extremity
1 Sita Anticyra est in Locride brevis navigatio ab Naupacto
laeva parte sinum Corinthiacum est. — 'Liv. 1. 26, c. 26.
intrantibus, breve iter terra, eo,

544

PHOCIS.

[chap.

of the Locrian coast. The existence of three
Anticyrae may be deduced from Strabo ; one in
CEtaea, or rather Melis, one in the country of the
Locri Ozolae, and the third in Phocis '. Horace in a
well-known verse alludes to the three Anticyrae, and
ascribes the production of hellebore to them all 2.

1 Trjg Be Olraiag karl . . ¦
Kal 'AvriKtppa (al. 'AvriKvpa)
bfioivvpog rrj kv AoKpdig rote
'Eo-7TEptotc. — Strabo, p. 434.
That Strabo by Hesperii
meant the Ozolae, appears from
another passage, p. 416, where
he says, KaXovvrai c" ol fikv
'Eairkpioi AoKpol /cat '0£oXat,
and adds, that they impressed
upon their money the figure of
the star Hesperus.
r; KptVo-a rijg $>o>KiSog karlv . .
Kal Kippa /cat 'Avr'iKippa (al.
'AvriKvpa) /cat ra virkp ahr&v
kv ry pEaoyaia avvEXV KEipEva

X^pla irpog r& "Hapvdaaio. —
Strabo, p. 416. . Kpiaaa, diji' r)g b
KoXirog Kpiaaa'iog' slra 'Avri
Ktppa (al. 'AvriKvpa) bpoivvpog
ry Kara tov MaXta/coV zcc/Xto/'
Kal rr)v O'iryv. — Strabo, p. 418.
. . T& SlTEpXElOl, Tb>
irapappkovn rrjv 'AvrtKvpav (al.
'AvrtKippav.) — Strabo, p. 428.
Vide et p. 434. ubi sup.
Stephanus in ' AvriKvpat
proves the orthography of the
Anticyrae of Phocis and Melis,
and his gentile 'Avrt/cvpEuc
agrees with the inscription at

Aspra Spitia.
2 Nanciscentur enim pretium nomenque poetae,
Si tribus Anticyris caput insanabile nunquam
Tonsori Licino commiserit. Horat. de Arte Poetica, v. 299.
According to Stephanus (in But the marshy plain at the

' AvTiKvpat) the people of the
Maliac Anticyra not only
claimed for their city the ho
nour of producing the best hel
lebore, but supported the claim
by the tradition that one of
their citizens had helleborized
Hercules, when labouring un
der madness in their neigh
bourhood, — lXXE/3opto-at rbv
'Hpa/cXEa /t£ra ryv jxaviav.

mouth of the Spercheius differs
so much from the rocky dis
trict round Aspra Spitia, which
we cannot doubt, from Pau
sanias, to have been the fa
vourite habitat of the helle
bore, that the claim of the
Anticyrenses was probably no
more than an unfounded pre
tension, supported by a fable.
Some ofthe commentators have

xx. J phocis. 545
Pausanias remarked at Anticyra some statues
of brass in the agora, and a temple of Neptune at
the port, small, constructed of wrought stones1,
plastered within, and containing an upright statue
of Neptune in brass, one foot of which was upon a
dolphin, the hand on the same side on the thigh,
and the other hand bearing a trident. There
were two gymnasia, one of which contained the
baths ; in the more ancient stood a brazen statue
of a Pancratiast of Anticyra, who had gained the
prize at Olympia. Above the agora was a source
in a well, which was covered with a roof supported
by columns ; a little higher up was a monument
formed of rude masses 2, said to be that of Schedius
and Epistrophus, sons of Iphitus. Two stades be
yond the city to the right, upon a high rock, which
was part of the mountain, stood a temple of Diana,
containing a statue by Praxiteles of more than the
human size, which represented the goddess as bear
ing a torch in the right hand, and a quiver on the
shoulders, with a dog at her feet to the left 3.
Having quitted Aspra Spitia at 1.35, and
ascended, by -a path of extreme steepness, the
rocky mountain at the back of the village, the
supposed that Horace meant grew. If two of the Anticyrae
three islands near Anticyra, produced, or pretended to pro-
upon what authority I cannot duce the hellebore, it would be
discover ; they could hardly sufficient to authorise a Latin
have known of the existence poet in attributing it to all the
of the three islands in the gulf three.
of Aspra Spitia, or of the exact 1 Xoydaiv X'iBoig. — Pausan.
site of Anticyra. But Pau- Phocic. c. 36.
sanias shows that it was not in 2 Xldoig rdig kirtrvxovaiv.
these islands that the hellebore 3 c. 37.
VOL. II. N 11

546 phocis. [chap.
same probably upon some part of which stood the
Temple of Diana, we enter at 2.20 upon an ele
vated plain, bounded on the left by the barren
mountain Xeroghianni, and on the right by Soma
lesi, of a similar character. Whether applied to
these or to the height we ascended, the description
which Pausanias has given of the mountains above
Anticyra is perfectly just1. Here it is, he adds,
that the hellebore chiefly grows, a fact which, not
knowing the plant, I can neither confirm nor con
tradict. Half way across the plain to Dhesfina we
enter vineyards, on the side of which are irarypia, or
little circular constructions of masonry for treading
the grapes. In other parts the plain is bare, with
the exception of a few scattered wild pear-trees.
Midway on the left hand, at the foot of Xeroghi
anni, and hid from the road in a rema, stands the
monastery of St. John, from which the mountain
takes its name of Dry-John. The land of the ter
ritory of Dhesfina is cultivated only once in two
years with barley and wheat, except in certain
places among the rocks, where they burn the
bushes, or where the soil is manured by the sheep
and goats which resort to the rocks for shelter.
There they sow every year and without any pre
vious ploughing. This year all the southern end
of the plain lies fallow, while the northern part is
ploughed. The village of Dhesfina, orTjesfina2, is situated

' ret bpy ret virkp rr)v 'Avrl- 2 AEaip'tva, T'^Eaifiva.
Kvpav irETp&By ayav kori.

xx.J phocis. 547
on the western slope of a high rocky hill, on the
summit of which stand a chapel and a large pir-
nari-tree. This height is separated only from the
equally rocky roots of Xeroghianni by a torrent
flowing to the northward, which a little above the
village issues from a narrow rocky opening be
tween the two mountains : opposite to the village
the ravine widens, and below it spreads into the
plain. The village contains one hundred and
seventy families, most of whom inhabit houses of two
stories, comfortable when compared with the poor
cottages of the peasants of Albanian race in Attica
and Boeotia. Here, as at Arakhova and further
westward, the Albanian language is uncommon,
although so near as the villages and convents of
Mount Helicon it is generally spoken, and many
of the women are even ignorant of the Greek.
Though Dhesfina is in the district of Salona, a
large proportion of which belongs to Turks, there
is no Turk inhabitant or proprietor in the territory
of Dhesfina. The mukata, and spahilik are pur
chased by a native Greek, who collects the taxes
and accounts to the Voivoda of Salona for a dheka
tia of one-ninth on corn, vines, and olives, for two
paras a head upon cattle, and five piastres a head
as an average on all males subject to the kharatj.
For himself he receives as Spahi one asper a head
on cattle, and four paras the strema upon vine
yards. Lastly, if such a word can ever be cor
rectly employed in Turkey in speaking of imposts,
the village contributes forty-eight purses a year to
the Voivoda to enable him to satisfy the demands
of Aly Pasha. The monasteries pay only the kha-
n n 2

548 phocis. [chap.
ratj on their inmates, the dhekatia on their land,
and the dmrpo-KE^aXo on irpdypaTa, or a tax of an
asper a head on cattle of all kinds. When I in
quire here whether any traveller like myself has
been seen before at Dhesfina, no one can recollect
such an occurrence, though one man states that he
remembers to have seen one of the people called
MiAidpSoi so near as Arakhova.
Feb. 9. — From the chapel of St. Elias, on the
summit of the hill of Dhesfina, I perceive that this
hill is the extremity of a ridge which divides the
plain of Dhesfina into two nearly equal parts, and
that above the gorge, and not far from the village,
there is another plain on a higher level. About a
mile to the westward of the village, at the foot of
a rocky projection of the range of Xeroghianni,
the plain is covered with a hybernal inundation
which usually remains until the month of May.
It is chiefly caused by the torrent of Dhesfina,
and has, I believe, a katavothra, through which
there is a partial discharge to the Gulf of Crissa.
On either side of the village, and even among the
rocks in the upper part of it, are many ancient
catacombs, but all very small, and capable only of
containing a single body. There are others to
the south of the village, excavated in the face
of the rocky height which rises from the oppo
site bank of the torrent. These remains, slight
as they are, are sufficient to show that Dhes
fina is the site of a Hellenic town, as its com
manding position in the middle of this secluded
promontory would alone induce one to pre
sume. I am inclined to think it was Medeon;

xx.J phocis. 549
for though neither Strabo nor Pausanias in speak
ing of that city can be said to indicate its precise
situation, yet as the former places Medeon on
the Crissaean Gulf1, and the latter near Anti
cyra 2, we may infer at least that it was in some
part of the country lying between the two gulfs.
Nor are the one hundred and sixty stades, which
according to the former authority was the distance
between Medeon and the frontier of Bceotia, very
different from the reality when applied to Dhes
fina. Strabo mentions some other places in Phocis, to
the eastward of Anticyra : first, Marathus, a small
town ; then Cape Pharygium, with a station for
ships ; and Mychus, so called as being the last
port of Phocis, and which lay below Mount Heli
con and Ascra. " Nor," he adds, " is Abae, a city
noted for its oracle, far from these places ; nor
Ambrysus, nor Medeon, a town of the same name
as that in Bceotia3." In another place he remarks
that Mychus, the last port of Phocis, and lying
below the western end of Helicon, was 90 stades
distant from Creusis *. From a comparison of
which passages with one another, and with the
coast itself, it seems probable that the remains at
Sidhiro-kafkhio are those of Marathus, that the
cape and harbour Pharygium were the same now
called Aghia, and that Mychus was the port of
Bulis, which lies under one of the summits of
1 Meoe&j' B' 6 pkv <bhiKtKog ('AvriKvpa) Kara MtcWi/oe ret
kv rif Kpiaaaiy koXitu), Bikx^v kpEtirta. — Pausan. Phocic. c.
Botwrtac araBiovg ekutov kify- 36.
Kovra.— Strabo, p. 410. 3 Strabo, p. 423.
2 KEtrat pkv ci/j h nbXig 4 p. 409.
VOL. II. 2 N 3 -}-

550 phocis. [chap.
Helicon, though it is obvious that the 90 stades
from Creusis must be too little if Pausanias is right,
as in fact he is, in placing Bulis at 80 stades from
Thisbe. As to the introduction ofthe names of Abae
and Ascra, as of places situated near this coast, it
can only be considered as an example of the want
of precision, or of the defective information of the
geographer, or of the corruption of his text ; for
neither of these places is much less than 20 geo
graphical miles in direct distance from the Gulf of
Aspra Spitia. He shows the same want of precision
in coupling Medeon with Ambrysus, having before
placed it in the Crissaean Gulf; though a compa
rison of the two passages may perhaps afford some
argument in favour of placing Medeon at Dhesfina,
this place being about midway between the Cris
saean Gulf and the site of Ambrysus at Dhistomo.
In the steep mountains and rocky paths of this
coast of the Corinthiac Gulf, few horses are kept.
Dobo is the last place where I could find any for
hire At St. Luke I exchanged them for mules,
and at Dhesfina asses only can be procured for the
baggage. The road from Dhesfina to Kastri leads
nearly north across the plain for three quarters of
an hour, and then begins to descend into the valley
of the Pleistus between the two summits of Mount
Cirphis, now called Somalesi and Kutzura ; the
latter of which borders the plain of Salona, and
forms the steep rocky coast on the eastern side of
the Crissaean Gulf.
The view from the summit of the ridge compre
hends all that magnificent ravine, the famed Par-
nassia Nape, from the root of Mount Parnassus,
which closes the site of Delphi to the westward, as

xx. J phocis. 551
far as another great counterfort of the mountain
eastward, which, descending from Arakhova, meets
Mount Xerovuni, and divides the course of the
waters forming the Pleistus from those which flow
through the Schiste to the Platania and the Ce
phissus. All the side of Parnassus which slopes to
the Pleistus, from the foot of the white cliffs ex
tending from Kastri to Arakhova, is cultivated :
round Arakhova, with vineyards ; between that vil
lage and Kastri, with corn ; and around Kastri, with
olives, which are also grown along the banks of
the river wherever there is any level space or easy
slope. The range of Cirphis on this side consists
throughout of precipitous cliffs, every where naked,
with the exception of the highest point Xerovuni,
which bears firs, and is now covered with snow.
The road on the descent of Cirphis is for a quarter
of an hour good and not abrupt, leading along a
slope covered with bushes ; afterwards it is that
zig-zag stony path down the steep side of the
mountain, which forms so conspicuous an object
from Kastri.
In 39 minutes from the summit of the mountain
we cross a bridge over the Xeropotami1, or dry
river, as the Pleistus is called, for though now a
respectable stream, it is dry during a great part of
the year, as it was when I last saw it in the month
of July. After an ascent from the river of nine
minutes in a direction eastward of the site of
Delphi, we arrive at a fountain and great plane
tree, then skirting for seventeen minutes an olive
wood, which extends from thence a considerable
distance to the eastward, we arrive at the issue of
1 Sypoirordpi, or tSEpoirordpi.

552 phocis. [chap.
a stream from the hill, so considerable as to turn
eight or ten mills in the course of its rapid descent
to the Pleistus : having ascended five minutes
from this source, we join the road from Arakhova
to Kastri, on the crest of a small ridge which
branches from the rocks of Parnassus, and where
are the ruins of an ancient tower, so placed as to
have furnished a good look-out on the approach to
Delphi from the Schiste. Here begins the ancient
cemetery : many sori remain in the neighbouring
corn-fields, some of which have their opercula,
some are almost buried, and there are others pro
bably below the surface. On the side of the rocks
which overhang the road are cryptae with curved
tops. The flat stones which covered the receptacles
are still lying upon some of them, but either
broken or a little removed on one side, so as to
show that the tombs have all been opened. There
are some remains of an ancient road nearer to the
rocks than the modern path. The sepulchral ex
cavations continue from hence as far as the turning:
to the left which leads to the monastery of the
Panaghia ; many sepulchres, perhaps, are con
cealed behind the earth and stones, which are
continually descending from the cliffs, and are
deposited at the foot of them. Three or four
minutes beyond the tower is a curiously sculp
tured incision in the rock on the right, in the style
of those at Telmissus, and other places in Asia
Minor. The sculpture is on a large mass, now
broken in two, and which probably fell off from a
higher situation on the cliff, for one cannot imagine
any less powerful shock capable of breaking it. It
represents a door studded with nails, and undoubt-

xx.] phocis. 553
edly belonged to some great excavated sepulchre.
Above it are seen several catacombs of different
forms. From hence to the Castalian spring is a
distance of seven minutes, leaving on the left the
monastery of the Panaghia, which stands on a
platform supported by massy Hellenic walls. In
eight minutes more I arrive at Kastri, at the house
of the Papas, not quite so dignified a personage as
his predecessor, the high priest of Apollo, though
he unites to his ecclesiastical character the civil
office of Protogheros, or prime elder of the village.
Delphi is correctly described by Strabo and
Justin as occupying a rocky theatre-shaped posi
tion1, but the remark of the latter author, that
it is precipitous on every side is not that of an
autoptes. The following are the topographical no
tices of the place, which Pausanias has left us2: —
"From the Schiste," he says, "there was a
steep and difficult road to Delphi. On entering
the city, four temples presented themselves in suc
cession3 : the first was in ruins ; the second had
been despoiled of all its statues ; the third pre
served only a few images of the Roman emperors ;
the fourth was the temple of Minerva Pronaea 4,
containing a statue of the deity, and in the pronaus
another larger, in brass, dedicated by the Massa-
1 Ot AeXQoI, irETp&BEg x10' mam theatri recessit. — Justin.
piov, 8£a7-po£ici£j, /caret Kopvijiyv 1. 24, c. 6.
kx^v rb pavTEiov /cat rfjv irbXiv, 2 Pausan. Phocic. c. 5. 8.
araB'ioiv EKKaiSEKa kvkXov irXy- 24. 32.
povaav. — Strabo, p. 418. 3 'EoeXBovti Be kg rrjv iroXtv
Templum Apollinis Delphis e'ioIv kipElrjg vaol. — c. 8.
positum est in monte Parnasso * Described by Demosthenes,
in rape undique impendente . . (c. Aristog. p. 780) as a pkyia-
.... media saxi rupes in for- rog vE&g.

554 phocis. [chap.
liotae. Adjoining to the temple of Pronaea was the
temenus of the hero Phylacus1. On turning to the
left from the gymnasium, there was a descent of
not more than three stades2 to the river Pleistus,
which joins the sea at Cirrha, the harbour of
Delphi. In ascending from the gymnasium to
the temple of Apollo, the water of Castalia was on
the right of the road3. The city stood entirely
upon a slope, and so did the sacred inclosure of
Apollo, which occupied a large space in the high
est part of the city, and was traversed by numerous
passages of communication4. On going out of the
temple, and then turning towards the left 5, there
occurred an inclosure containing the sepulchre of
Neoptolemus, above which6 was a stone of no
great size, fabled to have been given to Cronus,
as a substitute for the infant Jupiter. On re
turning from thence towards the temple of Apollo
occurred the fountain Cassotis, to which there was
an ascent through an inclosing wall. The water
was said to proceed under ground into the adytum
of the temple, and to render the priestess prophetic.
Above Cassotis was the Lesche, an edifice con
taining paintings by Polygnotus of Thasus, which
1 irpog Be roi tEpjJ rijg Hpo- TEg Bid irdarig irapkxErai axvpa'
volag (bvXaKov rkpEvbg kanv, c. Kara' ra aiira Sk ry itoXei rrj
8. See also Herodot. 1.8, c.39. dXXy Kal b hpbg irEpijioXog tov
2 hiroKarajiavn oh irXkov, kpol 'AiroXXoivog' ovrog Be pEykdEi
Soke'iv, y rpla ardSia. — Pausan. pkyag Kal dvoirdroi tov aarE&g
Phocic. C 8. kan' TErpyvrai Be /cat UZpSoi eit'
3 e/c Be tov yvpvaaiov rrjv kg avrov avvEXEig.
to hpbv avibvri karlv kv Be^i? 6 'EfaXBovri Be ek tov vaov
rrjg bSov rb vSoip rrjg KaaraXlag /cat rpairkvTi kg dpiarEpdv. —
Tv i\Sv. c. 24.
4 AEXtpotg Sk y wbXig avav- ' kiravajiavn.

/cat ttieiv

xx. J phocis. 555
had been dedicated by the people of Cnidus '. The
theatre was contiguous to the sacred inclosure of
Apollo : above the latter was a statue of Bacchus,
dedicated by the Cnidii. In the highest part of
the city was the stadium2, originally constructed
of the ordinary stone of Parnassus, and in which
state it remained until Herodes, the Athenian,
adorned it with Pentelic marble."
Of the two fountains the Cassotis is recognized
without difficulty as that now called Kerna, which
is just above the village of Kastri, to the north
west ; and the Castalia still more evidently as that
already mentioned at the upper extremity of the
ancient site towards the east, on the right hand in
entering a narrow fissure which separates the two
renowned Parnassian summits. This fissure, called
' ApicovSopivpa, or bear-ravine, is the bed of a torrent
originating in the upper region of Parnassus, and
1 'Yirkp Be ryv KaaaoirlSa Delphi had been converted
karlv o'lKypa ypaipdg kxov r&v from a club-house into a pic-
HoXvyv&rov, avaBrffiara fikv ture-gallery.
KviSloiv" /caXstrat virb AeX</>&v Pausanias proves the anti-
Akaxy, on kvravBa avvibvrsg quity of these places of public
to dpxaiov, rd te airovSaibrEpa resort from the words which
SiEXkyovro Kal biroaa pvB&By. Melantho addresses to Ulysses
— c. 25. in the Odyssey : (2. v. 327.)
It seems that the Lesche of
OhB' kdkXEtg evBeiv ^aX/c^t'ov kg Bopov kXBiiv
'He irov kg Xiaxyv
We have also the testimony of 2 Toii 7rept/3dXov Sk row tEpoS
Hesiod. (Op. v. 491, 499), Bkarpov exetui Bkag a£toV kira-
whose Scholiast shows that vajiavn ek tov wEpijibXov Aio-
they were extremely numerous vvoov tiyaXpa kvravBa Kvt-
at Athens, where the poor cStW karlv avdBypa' ardStov Sk
found shelter and fire in them aipiaiv avosraroi rrjg iroXtuig
in the winter. rot/rd kanv. — c. 32.

556 phocis. [chap.
which, though generally dry, forms in seasons of rain
a cascade of about 200 feet in height, falling over a
rock which closes the ravine of the Castalia 60 or
70 yards above that fountain. Near the foot of the
cascade is a small perennial spring. The Castalia
itself is a copious pool of very pure and cool water, at
the foot of a perpendicular excavation overhung with
ivy, saxifrage, and rock plants ; around which grow
some larger shrubs 1, in front a large fig-tree, and
near the road a spreading plane. The commenda
tion which Pausanias bestows on the water, as trulv
r)Sv, is confirmed by the natives, who consider it as
lighter, more agreeable and wholesome, than the
water of Cassotis. The pool is not only kept con
stantly full by subterraneous supplies, but affords
also a small stream flowing out of the basin into the
bed of the Arkudhorema, and from thence in a
deep channel to the Xeropotami, or Pleistus, unless
when the water is diverted for the purpose of irri
gating the fields and olives below Kastri. The Cas
talia is now called the fountain of Ai Ianni, from a
small chapel of St. John, standing above one corner
of the basin ; and the same name is given to the
whole course of the rivulet down to the Pleistus.
The natural pool of the Castalian spring was en
larged, adorned, and made more commodious by
the ancients by means of an excavation in the rock,
both vertical and horizontal, of which the annexed
plan, elevation and section, may give some idea2.
1 Dr. Sibthorp had the plea- phy of Delphi, and the situa-
sure of finding here a new spe- tion of the several buildings,
cies of Daphne, which he named see the plan at the end of this
Castaliensis. volume.
2 For the general topogra-

XX.J

PHOCIS.

557

CASTALIA.

1. Castalia. 2. Canal to carry off the superfluous water.
3. Niches. 4. Excavation and chapel of St. John. 5. Steps
descending into the basin of Castalia.
The steps seem to show that the subterraneous
supply of the spring was not always equal : in
summer perhaps not reaching above the lowest
steps ; but filling the basin in winter, wrhen the
channel at the back prevented the water from
rising above the upper step. This channel, how
ever, no longer serves its original purpose ; the
Kastrites, who chiefly use the basin for washing
clothes, having cut an opening through the upper
steps, so that the depth of water in the basin can
never be so great as it was anciently.
The larger niche may possibly have been de
stined for a statue of Apollo, and the two smaller
for figures of Pan and the nymph Castalia, who

558 phocis. [chap.
gave name to the fountain. The chapel of St.
John may perhaps occupy the place of the heroum
of Autonous, which is described by Herodotus as
having been at the foot of Mount Hyampeia, near
the fountain Castalia1.
Strabo and Pausanias agree in placing the
temple of Apollo in the highest part of Delphi,
though it appears from the words of the latter
author as already cited, not to have been so high
as the stadium, the remains of which are for
tunately extant to guide us, nor even so high as the
fountain of Cassotis, as the water of that fountain
flowed into the temple. It was, however, very near
this fountain, for Strabo places the tomb of Neopto-
lemus, which according to Pausanias was above
Cassotis, within the sacred inclosure2. It seems
evident, therefore, that the sacred temenus or
peribolus occupied the exact site of the present
village, and this is proved by an inscribed wall
forming part of the foundation of a house in the
village, which recorded the manumission of slaves,
or rather the dedication of them as IspoSovXoi to
Apollo. It cannot be doubted that these records
were placed in the sacred inclosure3. The remark
1 Herodot. 1. 8, c. 39. 3 The forms are somewhat
2 AEiKvvrai o" kv to tejxevei different from those of the tem-
rdipog NEOirroXkpov. — Strabo, pie of Sarapis at Chaeroneia,
p. 421. The TEfiEvog and t£pde but in both, the slaves are
irEpljioXog were in this instance chiefly females. At Delphi a
the same, as appears evident ftEJiaioirrjp, or security, in con-
on comparing the words eo-eX- junction, when the slave found
Bbvn kg to rkpsvog in c. 9 of the purchase-money, with the
Pausanias, with hpbg irEpijio- diroBbpEvog, or liberator, be-
Xoc in chapters 8. 32. came answerable to the hpo-
13

xx. J phocis. 559
of Pausanias that the peribolus was of great extent
is illustrated by another inscribed wall below the
village, upon which are recorded grants of proxe-
nia, with other privileges to foreign benefactors of
Delphi ; in some of these it is expressly stated
that the record is to be placed in the temple of
Apollo. As the distance from this wall to the
fountain Kerna is not less than three hundred
yards, it becomes probable that the entire in
closure was not less than equal to a square of
eight hundred or one thousand feet. The na-
ture of the ground explains the numerous s'^oSot,
or passages which Pausanias describes in the
peribolus ; for as the entire site of Delphi is a
steep declivity, it was of necessity divided into
terraces, many remains of the supporting walls of
which are still extant in every part of the slope.
The temple itself occupied probably the upper part
of the village not far below Cassotis, standing on

BovXog for the amount in case racter of a few other inscrip-
any one should attempt to treat tions which I found at Delphi.
him or her as a slave. No M. Boeckh, in his excellent
mention is made in any one work (Corpus Inscriptionum
of these inscriptions of any re- Grascarum), has formed a large
servation of the services of the collection of Delphic inscrip-
slave during the life of the tions from various authorities,
owner, or of a right of property and among them are almost all
in the children of the slave, as I possessed of any interest. A
occurs in the inscriptions of fragment which I found among
Chaeroneia. the fences below the village,
shows that the treasury of the
I subjoin in an additional note temple lent money upon the
specimens of the Delphic ma- security of houses and lands.
numissions, with the addition The register of these was of
of copies in the cursive cha- course kept within the hierum.

560 phocis. [chap.
the higher terrace, below which were others within
the peribolus containing the treasuries described by
Pausanias, as well as the other monuments and sa
cred offerings. It is to be supposed that there were
steps from one platform to another, besides lateral
passages in the transverse direction ; and the in
scribed walls were perhaps nothing more than the
supports of the superior terraces, the inscriptions
on which might be very conveniently read from
the inferior platforms, and thus became a commo
dious place of register for the Delphi 1.
As ancient temples in general, but especially
those of Apollo, fronted the east, we cannot doubt
that the temple of Delphi had that aspect; and
the relative situations of the tomb of Neoptole-
mus, of the fountain Cassotis, and of the temple,
as already indicated, will accord with that suppo
sition, Pausanias having remarked that on going
out of the temple it was necessary to turn to the
left to arrive at the tomb of Neoptolemus, and that
the fountain Cassotis occurred in returning to the
temple from the stone of Saturn, which was above
the tomb of Neoptolemus. As this stone must have
been very near the cliffs, it was probably one of
those numerous fragments which have fallen from
them. Pausanias proceeds to remark that the
Lesche stood above Cassotis ; and after a long
description of the picture of Polygnotus 2, he
1 Delphi is not the only in- AeX</>6c a woman AeXi/>?;. The
stance of a Greek city which people are sometimes ot AkXdiol
had no name in ordinary use and sometimes AeX^oi, without
but the gentile. I find from the article.
the inscriptions existing here 2 To the right the picture
that a native of the place was represented the taking of Troy,

XX.J

phocis.

561

then states that the theatre adjoined the sacred
peribolus, that on ascending from the latter there
was a statue of Bacchus, and that the stadium was
in the highest part of the city. Hence there is a
great probability that the theatre occupied the
ground immediately below the stadium, adjacent
to the village on the western side, comprehending
perhaps a part of its site, as well because the
words of Pausanias tend to that conclusion, as
because among the Greeks the theatre and sta
dium were commonly contiguous to, or not very
distant from each other ; and that in the pre
sent instance there was not elsewhere any space
adjacent to the sacred peribolus, sufficient for so

to the left the descent of Ulys
ses into Hades. In the former
the sea-shore was seen in the
lower part of the painting, and
the ships of Menelaus ready to
depart with Helen and the
Trojan captives. Above was
the taking of Troy, where Ne
optolemus alone was repre
sented slaying the Trojans,
because the picture had been
originally intended for his
tomb. The Cassandra in this
part of the painting was much
admired by ancient critics.
(Lucian. Imag.) To the left
the river Acheron occupied the
lower part with the boat of
Charon, the punishment of the
unjust, Eurynomus an infernal
demon, and Orpheus seated on
VOL. II. O

a hill with other poets near
him. Above were Ulysses
and the various personages
whom he found in the infernal
regions, his enemies forming
a groupe apart from himself
and his friends. Polygnotus
had not followed Homer alone
in the treatment of his sub
jects, which Pausanias traced
in many circumstances to Les-
ches, Stesichorus and Archilo-
chus, to the 'IXiac; piKpd and
the Mivvdg. The figures were
very numerous, and about one
hundred and twenty of them
had their names annexed, some
of which Pausanias supposed
to have been invented by the
painter himself.

562 phocis. [chap.
large a building as we cannot but suppose the
theatre of Delphi to have been, except below the
modern village, from whence there would have
been an ascent of at least five hundred yards from
the theatre to the stadium, which on so steep a
mountain would have been very inconvenient.
Although Pausanias does not exactly indicate
the relative situations of the temple of Minerva
Pronaea and of the gymnasium, there seems little
doubt, from the tenor of his narrative, that the
four temples, the gymnasium, and the Castalia,
occurred in succession, or nearly so, in the road
which led from the eastern entrance of the city to
the temple of Apollo ; and as he states the gym
nasium to have been about three stades from the
river Pleistus, which agrees with the position of
the ancient wall supporting the terrace of the
monastery of Panaghia, there seems little doubt
that these walls indicate the site of the gymnasium.
Other foundations immediately above it, probably,
belong to the peribolus of the temple of Pronaea,
for this temple was a little below, or to the left of
the road leading to the Castalia and the temple,
but not far from the overhanging rocks, as appears
from Herodotus, who relates that the temenus of
Phylacus, which Pausanias places near the temple
of Pronaea, was above that temple on the road
side ', and who adds, that when the Persians of
Xerxes arrived near the temple of Pronaea, large
masses of rock fell from the precipices upon the

1 irap' ahrr)v ti)v bSbv KarvirEpBE tov Ipov rijg "Rpovy'tyg.-
Herodot. 1. 8, c. 39.

xx. J phocis. 563
barbarians, and settled in the temenus of Pronaea,
where they still remained in the time of the his
torian. It is not improbable that the ancient road
was to the right of the modern path, the earth and
detached rocks having a tendency to accumulate at
the foot of the precipices, and the actual traces of
an ancient road nearer to the precipices than the
modern route, greatly favouring the same opinion.
Some other terrace walls about midway between
the monastery and the tower near the eastern
cemetery, may have been the platforms of the three
temples at the entrance of Delphi, of which Pausa
nias has not given us the names.
One of the most remarkable features in the site
of Delphi is the great ridge on the western side,
which advances from the rocks of Parnassus and
terminates abruptly towards the Pleistus, which
separates that termination from the opposite pre
cipices of Mount Cirphis. This western ridge
being higher than any part of the site of Delphi,
unless it be the ground immediately at the foot
of the rocks, is not beneficial to the place, inas
much as it concentrates the heat, intercepts the
imbat, and prevents the western breezes from mo
derating the heat in summer, which notwithstand
ing an elevation of twelve or fifteen hundred feet
above the sea, is rendered excessive by the reflec
tion of the sun from the great south-wall of cliffs
at the back of the site. The Kastrites accord
ingly describe the air as heavy l in summer, but
complain still more of the terrible gales which
1 ftapvg b dkpag slvai.
O O 2

564 phocis. [chap.
in winter often draw through the Parnassian
valley. But though the western range may not improve
the climate of Delphi, the exclusion of the city
from the view of the Crissaean plain and bay which
it caused, added greatly to the singularly wild and
sequestered nature of the place, so well suited to
assist in producing those effects to which all the
resources of Grecian art and priestcraft were here
directed. Even by preventing the persons in the
theoriae, or processions which landed at Cirrha,
from beholding the city at a distance, it con
tributed to the same objects. There are two roads
by which they may have approached : either fol
lowing the valley of the Pleistus until they passed
the straits at the end ofthe western ridge, when they
would have seen the buildings at a great height
above them, and rather in too confused and com
pressed a manner ; or by the modern road from
Krisso which crosses, in a hollow, the middle of
the western ridge, exactly in the position where
the magnificent view which then suddenly opened
upon them for the first time, was seen in the most
advantageous point, and at a distance calculated
to produce the most striking effect. By this route,
therefore, I have little doubt that the theoriae
approached, and formed a pageant probably not
exceeded in magnificence by any of the ceremonies
of antiquity, not even the Panathenaic procession
to the Parthenon '.
1 The admiration and reli- Delphi were still farther height-
gious awe of those who fre- ened by the effects of the re-
quented the great festivals at markable echo caused by the

xx.] phocis. 565
Above the hollow way in the western ridge
foundations of walls flanked with towers may be
traced at intervals along the crest of the ridge
as far as the great cliffs, which were themselves
a sufficient defence to the north. These are evi
dently the western walls of Delphi, and they are
the more worthy of notice, as history testifies that
Delphi was not a fortified city, when Philomelas,
the Phocian, seized it in the Sacred War, and
suspended the authority of the Amphictyones '.
Justin again expressly states in his narrative
of the attack of the Gauls, in the year b. c. 278,
that Delphi was not fortified 2, and Livy almost
implies the same in relating an attempt which
was made, in the year b.c. 172, by Perseus, to
assassinate Eumenes as he approached Delphi in
coming from Crissa. The historian states that
Eumenes was assaulted by the conspirators on the
ascent to Delphi, as he approached the build
ings 3, which would hardly have been his mode of

rocks and the theatre-shaped 1 The historian remarks that
site of Delphi. Media saxi he fortified the 'IcpoV. — Diodor.
rapes in formam theatri re- 1. 16, c. 25.
cessit, quamobrem et homi- 2 Templum et civitatem non
num clamor et si quando muri sed praecipitia nee manu
accessit tubarum sonus, per- facta sed naturalia praesidia
sonantibus et respondentibus defendunt ; prorsus ut incertum
inter se rupibus multiplex au- sit utrum munimentum loci an
diri ampuorque quam editur majestas Dei plus hie admira-
resonare solet, quae res majorem tionis habeat. — Justin, ubi sup.
majestatis terrorem ignaris rei 3 Adscendentibus ad tem-
et admirationem stupentibus plum a Cirrha priusquam per-
plerumque affert. — Justin. 1. veniretur ad frequentia aedificiis
24, c. 6. loca.— Liv. 1. 42, c. 15.

566 phocis. [chap.
expression if the town had been walled. Probably
therefore the existing walls are of a subsequent
date, and were constructed when the sanctity of
the place was falling into disrespect, and the
Delphi became convinced of the necessity of re
sorting to more vulgar means of protection. The
transaction related by Livy seems to have occurred
on the ascent of the western ridge, near the sum
mit, and exactly in the modern road, for this
probably coincides with the ancient, there being
little doubt that Crissa occupied the site of the
modern Krisso. There are many sepulchral ex
cavations in the rocks on the outside of the walls
on the western side and sori in the cornfields be
low, many of which are buried in the ground, like
those near the eastern entrance of the city. Ex
actly in the opening of the ridge, one of the
excavations consists of a spacious apartment be
tween two sepulchral chambers, at the end of
which is a semicircular seat, affording a delightful
place of repose in the heat of summer.
On the crest of the same ridge, midway be
tween the road and the foot of the great cliffs,
rises a tumulus, which its elevated situation
renders a conspicuous object, and on the eastern
slope of the ridge, very near the right hand side
of the modern road at its entrance into the
site of Delphi, stands a small church of St. Elias
upon an artificial platform, which is supported
by two ancient walls meeting in a right angle,
like those at the Panaghia, equally well con
structed, and evidently belonging to one of the
principal edifices of the city. There is however

xx. J phocis. 567
no building described by Pausanias in this situa
tion, and although one of the most advantageous
in the site, it is comparatively remote from that
part of the town which contained the Hierum and
its appendages. Possibly it may have been the
Pylaea, or palace of the Amphictyones, which was
remarked for its magnificence, although in a city
noted for the splendour of its edifices1. To the
eastward of St. Elias, in a lower situation, another
Hellenic wall, similar to that which supports the
terrace of St. Elias, crosses the slope of the hill
towards the ravine of the Castalian torrent. This
may perhaps have been the southern wall of the
city, for its extent on the three other sides being
known, the whole circumference will on this sup
position agree with the 16 stades which have been
assigned to it by Strabo 2.
The prospect from the western ridge is very
magnificent. The Parnassia Nape, although not
so well seen as from Mount Cirphis, is all com
prehended within the view as far as Arakhova.
To the southward the prospect is bounded beyond
the Corinthiac gulf by the majestic Cyllene, to the
right of which is seen the gulf of Galaxidhi, and
the plain of Salona, covered with olive trees, and
hence much more beautiful than it was anciently,
when as Pausanias tells us it was quite naked 3.
Beyond these the great Locro-JEtolian range rises
1 Plutarch (de Pythiae orac.) 2 Strabo, p. 418. v. sup.
who represents Delphi as not p. 553. n. 1.
less agreeable by its groves and 3 Pausan. Phocic. c. 37.
fountains than admirable for
its public buildings.

568 phocis. [chap.
to a height in some parts nearly equal to that of
Parnassus. It is clothed with woods above, adorned
below with the picturesque town of Salona and
several of its dependent villages, and extends
northward nearly in a direct line towards the
great summit of CEta, near Neopatra. The most
remarkable point in the range, is the same so
conspicuous in many parts of Boeotia and Phocis,
and there called Mavrolithari from a village of
that name near it, which is 6 hours distant from
Neopatra, and 12 from Salona, nearly in a line
from the one to the other.
Of the two summits above the Castalian spring,
which are divided from each other by the Arku-
dhorema, and which very much to the conve
nience of the geographer render the site of Delphi
recognizable at a great distance, the western is
now named Rodhini1, and the eastern Flembuko2.
The ancient names of these celebrated peaks were
Nauplia and Hyampeia, and it seems clear from
Herodotus that the latter was the eastern, for he
says, in describing the heroum of Autonous, that
it was under the summit Hyampeia, near the Cas
talian fountain 3, which is on the eastern side of
the Arkudhorema. There was a tradition that the
Delphi put iEsop to death by throwing him over
the Hyampeia, and that in after ages, from respect
to his memory, the Nauplia was made the place
of exit for criminals instead of the Hyampeia4.
This also is in favour of the eastern vertex having
1 'PoSivri. * Plutarch, de sera numinum
2 ^XEfxirovKog. vindicta.
3 Herodot. 1. 8, c. 39.

phocis.

569

XX.J been the Hyampeia, since it is more probable that
the original place of execution should have been
the nearest to the extremity of the town, and that
it should have been the higher of the two summits,
both which particulars are applicable to the eastern
summit. It appears that the whole line of cliffs
on the northern side was known by the name of
ai fpaiSpiaSfc wtTpai, for according to Suidas, iEsop
was precipitated from the rocks Phaedriades ] ;
and in the Phocic war, b. c. 354, when Philo-
melus was attacked by the Locri, it is related by
Diodorus that an action occurred near the rocks
Phaedriades, and that Philomelus having gained
the victory, drove many of the enemy over the
rocks2. It would seem that the Locri had en
tered the upper region of Parnassus from their
own territory, which adjoined the western part
of it, and that they had advanced as far as the
summit of the cliffs before they were met by Phi
lomelus. Like the acropolis of Athens, and the sacred
inclosure of Eleusis, the Delphic sanctuary is so
encumbered by modern habitations, that nothing
short of their removal, and the entire clearing of
the site from the accumulated rubbish of ages
can supply satisfactory particulars of the design
or architecture of the temple and its adjunct
buildings. In all these celebrated places, so
rich formerly in productions of art, the sacrifice
would probably be fully compensated by the dis
coveries. The only relic now remaining at Delphi
1 Suid. in A'iawirog, <t>aiSpidg. 2 Diodor. 1. 16, c. 28.

570 phocis. [chap.
which I can suppose to have belonged to the
temple of Apollo is a piece of Doric column in
the village of Kastri, having a fluting of about a
foot in the chord. According to the usual pro
portions of the order, such a fluting would require
a diameter of about six feet and a half, and will
therefore lead to the inference that the temple
was a hexastyle, not so broad or so high as that
of Olympia, of which the columns were more than
seven feet in diameter. This perhaps is nearly
what might be presumed, from the temple having
been more ancient than that of Olympia, that
hexastyle temple and its cotemporary the Par
thenon, which was an octastyle of the same di
mensions, having been built exactly at the time
when power and opulence made the most rapid
advances, and when the people of Elis and Athens
had the means of indulging their ostentation under
the cloak of devotion, so as to execute buildings,
exceeding all preceding attempts of the Greeks, in
honour of their gods. The last Delphic temple was
50 or 60 years older than the Parthenon, having
been built about 510 b. c. in consequence of the
destruction by fire in the year 548 b. c. of that
which had been built before the Trojan war by
Trophonius and Agamedes. The funds for the
reconstruction were derived from a general con
tribution to which even the distant colony of
Greeks at Sais in the Delta were parties, and
Amasis king of Egypt. The contract for the
work was taken by the family of the Alcmyonidae
of Athens, who engaged with the Amphictyones
to rebuild the temple, with the stone called Porus,
13

xx. J phocis. 571
for the sum of 300 talents, (probably not half
the cost of the Parthenon) and gave a noble
example of liberality in adding at their own ex-
pence a facing of Parian marble, and some other
ornaments to which they were not bound by the
contract. The architect was Spintharus, a Co
rinthian 1.
Justin relates, that when the Gauls attacked
Delphi, the priests who ascribed their defeat to
the immediate interposition of Apollo, declared
that they saw him descend into the temple
through the open part of the roof (per cul-
minis aperta fastigia 2). Hence it appears to
have been hypaethral, as temples of that magni
tude generally were. The aeti contained figures
of Diana, Latona, Apollo, the Muses, the set
ting Sun, Bacchus, and the Thyiades, begun by
Praxias, and finished after his death by Andros-
thenes, both of whom were Athenians. As in
the Parthenon, gilded shields were suspended
on a part of the entablature : they were the
spoils of two very distant nations, but nearly of
the same form, those of the Persians had been
dedicated by the Athenians from the spoils of
Marathon, the Gallic shields by the iEtolians3.
In the pronaus stood a brazen image of Homer
upon a pillar, and on the walls were inscribed
sentences written by the Seven men whom the
Greeks called the Wise 4. In the cella 5 were an
altar of Neptune, to whom the oracle in the most
1 Herodot. 1. 2, c. 18.— 3 Pausan. Phocic. c. 19.
Pausan. Phocic. c. 5. 4 ot -oipoi. — c. 24.
Justin. 1. 24, o. 8. s kv r& va&.

572 phocis. [chap.
ancient times was said to have belonged, statues
of two Fates, with Jupiter and Apollo as their
leaders1, the hearth2 upon which the priest of
Apollo slew Neoptolemus, and the iron chair of
Pindar, upon which he was said to have sung his
hymns to Apollo.
These are the remarks of Pausanias, from whose
silence we may infer that the Kparyp, or vase of
silver, containing 600 amphorae, the work of The-
odorus of Samus, which stood in the angle of the
pronaus to the left, in the time of Herodotus3, had
long before been converted into money by Philo-
melus, Sylla, or some other plunderer, as well as
all the other gifts of gold and silver, which the
Delphi received from Croesus, and cheaply repaid
by conferring upon him and the Lydians privileges
of the same kind as those mentioned in so niany
existing inscriptions 4. From a similar cause the
golden tripod, dedicated from the spoils of Plataea,
which Herodotus describes as having been near
the altar of Apollo, no longer remained in the
time of Pausanias, who found only, and not in the
same place, the twisted serpents which supported
the tripod.
It appears from Euripides, in his Ion, the scene
of which is laid at Delphi, that two of the repre
sentations on the exterior front of the temple were
Hercules, attended by Iolaus as shield-bearer, de-

MotpayErat. AvBolai irpofxavrrfiyv /cat ctr£-
karla. XEt'tjv /cat irpoESpiyv. — Herodot.
Herodot. 1. 1, c. 51. 1. 1, c. 54.
AeXijioI kSoaav Kpoiaio /cat

xx.] phocis. 573
stroying the Lernaean hydra with his faulchion ',
and Bellerophon on the horse Pegasus, slaying the
Chimaera2. They were probably on the metopes
ofthe eastern front. The battle ofthe giants, which
the Chorus describes as being upon the walls 3,
seems to have been a painting on the wall of the
pronaus, perhaps by Aristoclides, who is stated by
Pliny to have painted this temple 4. The figures
of the Gigantomachia specified by the Chorus, are
Minerva striking Enceladus with her spear, Ju
piter destroying Mimas with his lightning, and
Bacchus smiting another monster with his thyrsus.
The poet has likewise described some pepli, or
tapestries, in the temple, which were embroidered
with battles and other subjects, like those of the
Parthenon 5. Over the door of the cella was writ
ten the word EI, concerning which Plutarch has
written so much to so little purpose. As to the
adytum, Pausanias tells us nothing, except that
few persons entered into the inmost part of the
temple s, but that there existed in it a golden
1 TBov, rdvS' dBpyaov,
AEpvdiov "YSpav kvaipEi
Xpvakatg apiraig b Atbg iralg. Eurip. Ion. v. 190.
2 Kal pav rbvB' aBpyaov,
HrEpovvrog kipEBpov 'lirirov,
Tav irvpiirvkovaav kvaipEi
Tpia&parov dXKav. v. 201.
3 —KETpai kXovov kv TEiXEai
Aaivoiai yiydvruiv. v. 206.
* Plin. II. N. 1. 35, c. 11. 5 Eurip. Ion. v. 1141.
6 rov vaov r& kaoiraTb).

574 phocis. [chap.
statue of Apollo. It would seem, therefore, that
the priests still endeavoured to obtain respect by an
affectation of mystery, and closed the inner sanc
tuary against casual visitors and the vulgar. From
other writers we learn that it contained a perpetual
fire, and a narrow orifice in the ground, which
was surrounded by a railing, was shaded with
laurel, and surmounted by a tripod. Here was
seated the priestess when she uttered the oracular
responses, after having bathed in the water of
Castalia, and crowned herself with the laurel and
masticated some of its leaves *.
It has generally been supposed that the convul
sions of the priestess, which preceded her prophetic
words, were caused by a mephitic vapour emanat
ing from a fissure in the rock. Pausanias and Lu-
cian, on the contrary, ascribe it to the water of Cas
sotis. As such a vapour, if it had existed, would
probably still find its way out of the ground in the
same place, or near it, it is very possible that there
never was such a vapour, though the cavern or
aperture in the rock may have been real. The
propensity of the Greeks to believe in the marvel
lous, would easily lead them to add a wvivfia kvOov-
o-iao-riKov2 to a place which they were not allowed
to see, if the priests thought fit to encourage the
idea. The only buildings within the sacred peribolus,
besides the temple, were a portico built by the
1 iEsehyl. Eum. v. 39. — c. 26. — Lucian in his accu-
Euripid. Ion. v. 76. 1321 — sat.
Lycophr. v. 6. — Diodor. 1. 16, 2 Strabo, p. 419.

xx. J phocis. 575
Athenians, and eight dyaavpol, or treasuries, simi
lar to those at Olympia1, where ten of these con
structions stood upon a Kprrmg, or basement, between
the temple of Juno and Mount Cronium. One of
the thesauri at Olympia was so large as to con
tain a colossal statue ; at Delphi none seem to have
been of such dimensions, but were intended only
for the smaller and more valuable offerings, the
works of statuary having been on the adjacent
platforms of the hierum. The cities which had
constructed the treasuries at Delphi were Sicyon,
Siphnus2, Thebes 3, Athens 4, Cnidus, Potidaea,
Syracuse5, and Corinth6, to which Strabo adds
the Italian cities, Spina and Agylla. The same
author remarks that wealth is difficult to guard,
even though sacred 7 ; and agrees with Pausanias
in showing that the treasuries at Delphi were all
empty, the contents having long before their time
been converted into the sinews of war. Nor were
sacred offerings, the value of which was derived
from the skill ofthe artists who made them, although
less tempting to the vulgar plunderer, exempt from
1 KaBd Br) Kal kv AsXipoTg into their mines and destroyed
'EXXrivoiv nvkg kiroir\oavro t& them. — Phocic. c. 11.
'AirbXXoivi Byaavpovg. — Pau- 3 The Theban treasury was
san. Eliac. post. c. 19. built after the battle of Leuctra.
2 The god had ordered the 4 The Athenian was built
Siphnii to send a tenth of the from the spoils of Marathon.
produce of their gold mines to 5 The Syracusan after their
Delphi ; the treasury was built defeat of the Athenians.
accordingly, and the tenth was 6 This treasury once con
fer some time sent. But the tained the gold presented by
tax was probably too heavy. the kings of Lydia.
Pausanias says, that in conse- 7 6 irXoiirog SvaifivXaKrbg kan
quence of the Siphnii having /cav lepbg y. — Strabo, p. 420.
ceased to send it, the sea broke

576 phocis. [chap.
the effects of a more refined species of cupidity.
Scarcely any but imperial robbers, however, could
indulge a passion for collecting statues at the ex-
pence either of Delphi or any of the other more
celebrated places in Greece, which were at once
the favourite abodes of superstition, and the chief
repositories of art, so long as Paganism continued
in vogue. Of this we have a strong argument in
the catalogue which Pausanias has given us of the
collection at Delphi1, a century after it had been
plundered of 500 brazen statues by Nero2. With
the decline of taste in the third century the passion
of collecting gradually ceased among the Romans,
which change, as the ancient worship still kept its
ground in this part of Greece, had a tendency to
preserve the sacred places nearly in the same
condition as Pausanias had left them, until Con-
stantine, and one or two of his successors, de
spoiled them of some of their choicest monu
ments for the purpose of adorning the new capital,
as well as for that of degrading the deities of
the old worship, and of holding them up to ridi
cule 3. It was not until the imperial decrees were
issued against idolatry, at the end of the fourth
century, that the Christians could indulge their
barbarous zeal in the indiscriminate destruction of
the ancient statues. The greater part having been
of brass, were then probably melted for the sake of
converting them to purposes of vulgar utility. The
works in marble, although many of them may have
1 Pausan. Phocic. c. 9. See 3 These motives are stated
the Additional Note at the end by Eusebius (in Constant. 1. 3,
of this volume. c. 54.) and by Sozomen (1. 2.
2 Pausan. Phocic. c. 7. c. 5.)

xx. J phocis. 577
been broken, are more likely to have escaped entire
destruction ; and it is difficult to believe that many
valuable remains of sculpture as well as architecture
are not still concealed beneath the surface of the
ground at Delphi. The steepness ofthe site, and the
fragility of the lofty cliffs above it, acted upon by
the waters flowing from the higher summits, are con
stantly operating a change in the soil ; fragments
of stone and an alluvion of earth descending from
above, have a continual tendency to accumulate
matter upon the ancient platforms of the city, and
to place them lower beneath the surface, of whicli
the stadium is a proof, the upper row of seats only
being now above ground. Thus the ancient re
mains become deeply buried, except where a
torrent, taking a new course, suddenly removes a
part of the accumulation, and thus occasionally
brings some of them to light. It seldom happens
that a heavy fall of rain does not produce the dis
covery of some coins, or other remains of art, par
ticularly among the terraces to the west and to the
south of Kastri.
The length of the stadium of Delphi (as well as
it can be determined in such a ruin) is 630 feet.
or nearly the same as that of the other stadia of
Greece, in all which their ruined condition causes
something more than the length of the dromus to
be included in the measurement. It seems, there
fore, that if there was any such measure as a Pythic
stade, longer than the ordinary stade, it was not
derived from any excess in the length of the stadium
of Delphi. This structure was composed, as Pausa
nias remarks, of the native rock, which is a brown
VOL. II. p p

578 phocis. [chap.
limestone, containing veins of white marble ; nor
do I perceive a vestige of the Pentelic marble
with which it was decorated by Herodes.
The cavern on the slope of Mount Cirphis, which
is so conspicuous from Kastri, is natural, though
the entrance has been squared, and the inside a
little enlarged and made regular, in order to form
it into a church, of which some remains exist, or
originally, perhaps, (and such is the opinion of
the priest, my host, and other Kastrites,) for an
ascetic retreat. There is a little verdure before
the door, which is said to have been the garden
of the hermit. All the rest of the rock is a bare
precipice, and the access to the cavern is extremely
difficult. It is dedicated to St. Arsale, or Orsale1,
to whom the convent above Daulis is sacred, and
whose kopT-r) or festival is on Easter Monday.
From Delphi Pausanias conducts his reader to
the celebrated cave named Corycium, and from
thence continues his route across the upper Par
nassus to Tithorea. I visited the cave on my for
mer journey at a season when Parnassus, now
enveloped in snow and mist, exhibited under a
brilliant atmosphere a delightful scene of arable
and pasture, intermixed with forests of pine, fir,
and the grandest mountain scenery. The cavern
is about seven miles from Delphi, to the north-east
ward, and at a nearly equal distance to the north
west of Arakhova ; the access from each place is
1 'Ayia 'ApaaXr), 'OpaaXy. as virEppkyEBEg, that which is
Antoninus Liberalis (c. 8) opposite to Kastri will hardly
mentions a cavern in Mount answer to it.
Cirphis ; but as he describes it

xx. J phocis. 579
easy after having surmounted the steep ascent
which leads from them both into the upper region
of Parnassus, as it then crosses the great elevated
valley which extends for about sixteen miles in a
westerly direction from the foot of the highest
summit anciently Lycoreia1, and now Liakura.
From Delphi the road to the Corycium crosses the
western ridge just under the Phaedriades Scopuli,
and then immediately ascends by a zigzag path
cut in the rock, very steep and rugged, and which
retains traces of the ancient route. Just above Cas
talia the road to the Kalyvia of Arakhova and to
Liakura, probably the ancient road to Lycoreia
and Tithorea branches to the right. Following
that to the left which leads to the Mavpy TpoWa, as
the Corycium is now called, we entered a country
of pasture interspersed with firs, and peopled with
shepherds and their flocks, occasionally passing
fields of wheat, barley, and oats, all yet green
though it was the 27th of July, and the harvest in
the plains of Boeotia had been completed a month
before. To the right was a lake fed by the streams
from the surrounding mountains, and partly dis
charged by a subterraneous channel, of which the
Emissory is probably the source at the mills of
Kastri. Having arrived at the foot of the moun-
1 Strabo, p. 418, 423. All are the walls of another Hel-
tlie eastern part of the plain lenic town, which agrees with
belonged probably to a town of the iEolis of Herodotus (1. 8,
Lycoreia, of which some re- c. 35), or equally well with the
mains are found at the village of Cyparissus of Homer (B. 519),
Liakura. At the southern foot Strabo (p. 423), Dicaearchus
of the mountain, midway be- (v. 80), and Stephanus (in
tween the Schiste and Delphi, voce).
pp2

580 phocis. [chap.
tain on the northern side of the valley, we ascended
more than half way to its summit, when a small
triangular entrance presented itself, conducting
into the great chamber of the cavern, which is
upwards of 200 feet in length, and about 40 high
in the middle. Drops of water from the roof had
formed large calcareous crystallizations rising at
the bottom, and others were suspended from every
part of the roof and sides. The inner part of this
great hall is rugged and irregular, but after
climbing over some rocks, we arrived at another
small opening leading into a second chamber, the
length of which is near 100 feet, and has a direc
tion nearly at a right angle with that of the outer
cavern. In this inner apartment there is again a
narrow opening, but inaccessible without a ladder;
at the foot of the ascent to it is a small natural
chamber. There seems to have been ample space for
the Delphi and other Phocians to deposit here their
valuable property, and even their families, when
they took refuge in Mount Parnassus from the
Persians1. As Pausanias states that there was " a
distance of 60 stades from Delphi to a brazen
statue, from whence it was easier to ascend to the
cavern on foot than on a horse or mule ;" the statue
probably stood at the foot of the mountain, the
distance from thence to Delphi being nearly that
which he mentions. He remarks that the Cory
cium is larger than many other celebrated caverns
which he had seen, and enumerates ; and ob
serves, that it is easy to walk into the cave for a
1 Herodot. 1. 8, c. 36.

xx.] phocis. 581
great distance even without a torch, and that there
are springs and drippings from the roof to the bot
tom in every part of it. The people of Parnassus,
he adds, considered the cave sacred to the Cory-
cian nymphs and to Pan \ From the cavern we
proceeded to Aguriani, distant three hours, in a
north-western direction, through a wide valley
abounding in springs and rivulets which flow
to the torrent of Lilaea, and where in the in
tervals of forests of fir, there was a beautiful variety
of corn-fields, and of pastures covered with sheep
and goats : on either side rose the secondary sum
mits of Parnassus. At Aguriani, which contained
60 or 70 families, a large stream issued from the
foot of the mountain above the village, and flowed
through it, turning several mills, and filling some
large vats which served for soaking the coarse cloth
wThich the villagers made from the wool of Parnas
sus. In an hour and a half from Aguriani we de
scended into the northern Phocic valley at Paleo
kastro, or the ruins of Lilaea.
1 hpbv Sk ahrb (to dvrpov) ol places together. It is remark-
ropi rbv Hapvaaabv KwpvKioiv able that the gentile 'Apjipv-
te Eivai Nvpipwv Kal ILavbg fid- aiog in this inscription is 'Ap-
Xiara rjyyvrai. These words jip&aEvg in those found at
of Pausanias are illustrated by Dhistomo on the site of Am-
the following inscription which brysus. The word avpirEpiiro-
Mr.H.Raikes discovered in the Xoig is explained by the irEpi-
cavern soon after my second 7rdXot mentioned by Thucy-
visit to Delphi: — Evarparog dides, and other authors, and
AaKiSbpov 'Apjipvawg avfiirEpi- who were a kind of local mili-
irbXoig naVt NujudiatE. Eus- tia. Pausanias observes, that
tratus, son of Dacidomus of not even on foot was it easy to
Ambrysus, to Pan and the ascend from the cave to the
Nymphs who frequent these summit of Parnassus.

CHAPTER XXI.

PHOCIS, LOCRIS, -ETOLIA.
Departure from Delphi — Krisso, Crissa — Xeropigadho — Cirrha —
River Pleistus — Salona, Amphissa — Latin inscription — Roads
from Salona — Athymia, Myonia — Lidhoriki — Steno — Veluk-
hovo — Rivers Mega, Kokkino, and Morno — Khan of Paleuxari
— Monastery of Varnakova — Magula — Cross the Morno —
Plain of Pilala — Mount Rigani — -'Epakto, Naupactus — -Ancient
geography of JEtolia and Locris — Athenian invasion — March
of the Spartan Eurylochus through Locris — CEneon — Mgitium
— Potida nia — Eupalium — Erythrae — Crocylium — Tichium —
Hyle — Tolophon — Phaestum — Apidoti — Opkionenses — Bomi
— Callium — Pyra — Mount Corax — Eurytanes.
Feb. 10. — Although the situation of Delphi is not
very agreeable, nor its lands in general very fer
tile, its slopes favourable to the cultivation of the
olive, its fields on the banks of the Pleistus, with
the copious springs at the mills, and those of
Castalia and Cassotis, are advantages which will
always secure to the place some inhabitants,
who will derive some further resources from the
ancient fame of the place and its remains of anti
quity, which cannot fail to attract casual visitors
as long as Greek literature is held in estimation.
Delphi deserves attention also as a military posi
tion which commands the western entrance of one
of the most important passes in Greece.

CHAP. XXI. ] PHOCIS. 583
Having passed through the western ridge,
and among numerous remains of the ancient
cemetery on that side of the city, we descend
by a very winding stony road to Krisso, a large
village inhabited solely by Greeks, and the resi
dence of the bishop of Salona ; but instead of
entering the village turn to the left, and continu
ing to descend the mountain, arrive in one hour
from Delphi in the vale of the Pleistus, a little above
a mill overhung by the rocks and steep side of the
hill of Krisso. Below the mill the valley opens into
the plain. This is about the situation in which
Pausanias describes the Hippodrome of the Pythian
games 1, but no vestiges of it are to be perceived.
Twenty minutes farther we cross the Pleistus
and enter the Crissaean plain, which extends to
the sea — then advance through a thick wood of
olives which shades the banks of the Pleistus from
hence upwards, as far as the narrows formed by
the western ridge of Delphi, then passing along the
foot of Mount Kutzura, we arrive in another twenty
minutes at Xeropigadho 2, a village situated just
under the steep rocks of the mountain. The road
by which my servants and baggage came hither
from Dhesfina descends the mountain at a gorge a
little above the village. Soon afterwards I proceed
to the shore of the Crissaean Gulf in search of
Cirrha, turn a projecting point of the mountain,

1 'Ej Sk Kippav rb kirivEiov pbg rk kanv, Kal dy&va XlvBia
AsXip&v, bSbg pkv araBioiv e(J\- dyovatv kvravBa tov liririKov.
Kovrd kanv ek AeX<ji&v' Kara- — Pausan. Phocic. c. 37-
ftdvri (k kg to irkSiov l-mroSpo- 2 SEpoiriyaSov, dry well.

584 phocis. [chap.
which hides Xeropigadho from the sea ; and in
eight minutes leave in the rocks to the left a great
cavern, which, according to my guide, who is an
old native of Xeropigadho, is so deep within that a
stone thrown into it will descend to the level of the
plain, and may be heard to fall into the subterra
neous bed of a river of salt water which issues at
some distance below from the foot of the moun
tain. This stream joins the sea at a spot where
the shore of the gulf forms an angle, and where
stand a mill and a house named Skliri. This
place was a mile to the left, midway from Xero
pigadho to Magula, which is twenty minutes
from that village. The name Magula is ap
plied to a square space, near a mile in cir
cumference, covered with fragments of ancient
buildings and wrought stones of Hellenic times.
On the beach are the ruins of a tower of the
middle ages, but composed chiefly of large qua
drangular blocks which are cemented with mortar :
near it are a well, a small church, and some re
mains of an ancient wharf or mole extending some
distance into the water. A rising ground towards
the centre of the ruins seems to be composed
entirely of ancient materials slightly covered with
earth ; but no remains of ornamental architecture
are to be seen, nor any thing in its original place.
My conductor says that Krisso once stood here,
that these are the ruins of it, and that he had this
information from his ancestors. The spot is about
half wav between Skliri and the mouth of the
Pleistus, and seems clearly to be the site of Cirrha,
the port of Delphi, for it is the nearest point of the

xxi. J phocis. 585
coast to Delphi, is not far from the mouth of the Pleis
tus*, is near the foot of Mount Cirphis2, and gene
rally in agreement with the ancient testimonies 3.
Pausanias remarked at Cirrha a temple containing
colossal statues of Apollo, Diana, and Latona, ofthe
Attic school, and a fourth of Adrasteia, of smaller
size4. The rising ground in the middle of the
ancient site is probably formed by the substruction
and ruins of this building. The distance of Cirrha
from Delphi has been variously stated by the an
cients. My time distance tends to show the 60
stades of Pausanias to be very near the truth, cer
tainly much more so than the 80 of Strabo, or the
30 of Harpocration 5.
Pausanias has created some doubts on the ancient
geography of this part of Phocis, by his remark
that Homer, both in the Iliad and in the Hymn to
Apollo, applies to Cirrha its more ancient name of
Crissa 6 ; thus leading to the inference that they
were one and the same place, an opinion which
may derive some appearance of support from the
indiscriminate application by ancient authors of
the names Cirrhaean and Crissaean to the sur
rounding plain. There can be little doubt, how-

1 Ovrog 6 aXsiarbg kiri Kip- 3 Plin. H. N. 1. 4, c. 3.—
pav to kirlvEiov AeX<j>&v Kal rrjv Liv. 1. 42, c. 15, 16.
ravry KarEiai BdXaaaav. — Pau- * Pausan. Phocic. c. 37.
san. Phocic. c. 8. s Harpocrat. in Kippa'tov
'YiroirkirruiKE ry KipipEi irb- tteBiov.
\ig apxa'iaKippa kiri ry BaXdrry 6 Pausan. Phocic. c. 37-
ISpvpkvy, dip' rig dvdjiaaig Eig
AeX0oi/e bySoriKovrd irov ara-
Bimv. — Strabo, p. 418.

586 phocis. [chap.
ever, that Cirrha and Crissa were different places,
and that the latter occupied the exact situation of
Krisso, as this existing name would lead us to
presume. Krisso, in fact, is accurately described
in the Hymn to Apollo as a height well suited to
vines, rising above a woody valley at the foot of
the steep rocks of the snowy Parnassus, on its
western side '. In those times Delphi was a
lep6v in the Crissaean territory. Crissa was pre
cisely such a site as the founders of Greek cities
often chose, being a rocky hill rising above the
middle of a fertile plain, at a secure distance from
the sea, and near the entrance of two diverging
valleys. Cirrha, on the other hand, stood not un
der Parnassus, but near the foot of Mount Cirphis,
on the maritime level, and at the nearest point of the
coast to Crissa and Delphi, of which two places it
was successively the kirivuov or port. Strabo, who
has distinguished Cirrha from Crissa, asserts that
the former was destroyed by the Crissaei, and the
latter at the end of the first sacred war which the
Amphictyones declared against the Crissaei for
having occupied the sacred land, ill-treated those
who passed through their territory to Delphi,
and for having laid excessive taxes on the im
ports from Sicily and Italy 2. The principal event
1 virb irrvxl Uapvdaaoio. — Hymn in Apol. v. 269.
"I/ceo S' kg Kpiaayv virb Ilapvyabv vi<j>bEvra
Kvrjpov irpbg Zkcjtvpov TETpappkvov' ahrdp hirEpBEV
nirpy viroKpkparai' KoiXr) S' viroSkSpopE jiyaaa
Tpr/XEia.— v. 282.
7U,ov c" kg Kplaayv evSeieXov dpirEXoEvra. — v. 438.
2 Strabo, p. 418.

xxi. J phocis. 587
of this war was the capture of Cirrha, said to have
been effected by a stratagem of Solon, who ordered
hellebore to be thrown into the aqueduct which
conveyed water to the town from the Pleistus \
In the last Sacred War, B. C. 340, the same ac
cusation was preferred against the Amphissenses
as against the Crissaei of old, and their works for
the restoration of Cirrha were destroyed by the
Amphictyones 2. But on both occasions the destruc
tion of Cirrha, like that of many other places in
Greece to which history has ascribed a similar ca
lamity, had evidently only a temporary effect ; for
Pausanias found Cirrha still existing as the port of
Delphi, nor can we hesitate in believing that as
such it partook in the prosperity of the sacred city
during the eight centuries which succeeded the First
Sacred War, when Delphi, with scarcely any in
termission, enjoyed opulence and celebrity in the
highest degree, and the Pythian Games were fre
quented by every people of Grecian origin. It was
quite otherwise with Crissa, which was reduced to
insignificance by Delphi at an early period. Xero
pigadho is perhaps the site of Craugallium, the
inhabitants of which suffered, together with the
Cirrhaei, for having cultivated the sacred land in
the time of Solon 3.
Having returned to Xeropigadho, we proceed
from thence, in two hours, to Salona ; in three
1 Pausan. Phocic. c. 37. 3 .^Eschin. c. Ctesiph. p.
2 Strabo, p. 419, mentions 498. Harpocrat. in KpavaX-
Crissa as the place restored, XiSat. Didym. ap. Harpocrat.
but iEschines (c. Ctesiph.) ibid.
clearly shows that it was the
port Cirrha.

588 LOCRIS. [chap.
minutes cross the Pleistus, then, passing an open
part of the Crissaean plain, arrive, in seven more,
on the left bank of the dry river of Salona : this
we follow through a plantation of olives, and cross
it a little below the entrance into the valley of Sa
lona, where the level on the banks of the river is
not so much as a mile in breadth, being bounded
by a cliff of the mountain of Krisso on the right,
and a projection of other rocky mountains to the
left. Beyond this strait the valley widens, the
road turns more westward, still through olive-
groves, and within two miles of Salona again tra
verses an open plain.
The castle of Salona is an extensive ruin of
Frank or lower Greek construction, built upon the
remains of the walls of an ancient polis ; the keep
of the castle occupying the acropolis, and the outer
walls following- nearly those of the town. Remains
of two of the Hellenic towers appear on the descent
of. the hill towards the north, standing upon the
summit of a rocky brow which overhane-s the
modern houses in that part ; so that the ancient
city appears to have been of no great dimensions,
and to have had an aspect towards the mountains.
Under the rocks of the castle to the south issues a
very copious spring, pouring through a great num
ber of spouts, and forming a principal source of
the river. There is another but scanty spring on
the slope of the hill behind the castle. The river
receives a branch from the north, but the water is
consumed in irrigating the lands in the valley, and
except after heavy falls of rain no water reaches
the Pleistus. Salona contains 300 Turkish and

xxi.] locris. 589
four or five hundred Greek families; in the villages
of the district all are Greeks. According to a
rough calculation of the Khodja-bashi, there are
100,000 pilaic. or roots of olive ; that is to say, olive-
trees in the district, producing each five litres of
1000 drachms on an average, which gives for the
whole produce half a million of litres. It is a
good year when they export three ship loads.
The oil is excellent. They are now gathering the
fruit, which is done in the same manner practised
at Athens, by thrashing the boughs with a long
stick, the effect of which is to beat off a great
number of leaves and small branches. They say
it cannot do any harm to the ensuing crop, because
the trees produce plentifully only once in two
years, without reflecting that this savage mode of
gathering the fruit may be a principal cause of
the failure of crop in the alternate years. Tobacco
is grown in the lands of Topolia and Kolovates,
villages belonging to the district of Salona, in the
adjacent part of Parnassus.
In one of the churches of Salona the Latin in
scription is still preserved which was published by
Spon and Wheler. The construction of the docu
ment is not very clear, hut the following is evi
dently the purport of it. Decimus Secundinus,
styling himself vir clarus, proconsul , curator, and
defender of the Amphissenses, reminds them that
he had before ordered the aqueduct to be cleaned
out, and the water to be turned into the old cis
terns, and desires that it may now be done imme
diately. He hopes that they will feel grateful to
the happy times and his moderation in not having

590 LOCRIS. [chap.
confiscated the funds intended for the supply of
the public water, which he threatens if a similar
interception should recur, and now directs that a
lapidary inscription should be placed on the cis
terns, stating from whence the water was derived,
in order that no means should be left of invading
the public property. Finally he desires them to
remember that all things are to be finished before
the tenth day of the calends of January, calls them
to the performance of the work, and bids them
farewell '. The corrupted Latinity of this inscrip
tion resembles that of the age of Diocletian. The
form of the V. and E, of which the former is con
stantly Y, and the latter sometimes € , may be
attributed to the engraver having been a Greek.
The document is chiefly valuable for the word
Amfissensium, leaving no doubt that the site is
that of Amphissa, which is otherwise liable to
question, as Pausanias places Amphissa at a dis
tance of 120 stades from Delphi, and JEschines
only at half that number2. But as the latter in-
1 Decim(us) Secundinus licus non fit : sane si similis
V. C. (vir clarus), Proconsul, interceptio iterum fieri possit :
Curat(or) et Defens(or) Am- in cisternis ipsis lapideo titulo
fissensium salutem. Ut me- posito, unde aqua veniat, ad-
mini non repurgari modo aque- scribete, ut nulla invadendi
ductum, verum etiam induci publicum refinquatur occasio.
aquam jusseram, confestim igi- Memores eritis perfacta Hia
tal in veteres cistemas aqua ut neant omnia ante diem deci-
semper cucurrerat inducatur. mum kalendarum Januariarum.
Gratias agentes beatitudini Vos ad officium nuntiare debere
temporis et moderationi meehe opto. Bene valeatis.
(meae), spero, quod fundus qui 2 Pausan. Phocic. c. 38. —
aquam publicam occupavit pub- iEschin. c. Ctesiph. p. 515.

xxi. J locris. 591
terval corresponds to the position of Salona, and
not less so the situation of the place in the midst
of mountains, which is said to have been the origin
of the name Amphissa, we may conclude that the
distance in Pausanias is erroneous.
Strabo asserts that Amphissa was a ruin in
his time, and that it had been in that state ever
since it was destroyed by the Amphictyones after
the second Sacred War ! ; in this, however, as in
the instance of Cirrha, he is contradicted by his
tory 2, and particularly by Pausanias, who in
forms us, that when Augustus founded Patrae he
ordered all the towns of the Locri Ozolae to be de
pendent upon the new Roman colony, except Am
phissa, which, as well as Patrae itself and Nicopo-
lis, then received many inhabitants from the de
clining iEtolian cities ; so that we can hardly
doubt that when Strabo wrote, which was very
soon afterwards, Amphissa was the most popu
lous place in this part of Greece : before the time
of Augustus, indeed, there is reason to believe
that it had been in a declining state, for when the
Amphissenses had received the iEtolian colony,
they detached themselves from Locris and called
themselves iEtolians, whence it is probable that
the inhabitants were then chiefly composed of the
latter people.
Pausanias describes Amphissa as being well
adorned with public buildings, but he specifies
only the tombs of Amphissa and of Andraemon,
1 Strabo, pp. 419, 426, 427. fantry against the Gauls at
2 In the year 278 B. C, the Thermopylae.
Amphissenses supplied 400 in-
13

592 locris. [chap.
and a temple of Minerva in the citadel, contain
ing an upright statue of the goddess, which
although of archaic workmanship, was not in
his opinion so old as the Amphissenses pretended,
who asserted that it had been brought from
Troy by Thoas. On the contrary, Pausanias
was persuaded that it was less ancient than a
statue which he had seen at Ephesus, made by
Rhoecus of Samus, who with Theodorus of the
same island invented the art of casting brazen
figures, and who lived about the year 700 B. C.
Between Salona and the pass which separates
its plain from that of Crissa lie the villages Kuski,
St. George, Sergula, and Sirnakaki, in that order
on the slope of the hill which bounds the western
side of the valley. This slope is crowned by a
rocky brow, in which, between the two last men
tioned villages, are cavities called the Portes ',
said to be haunted by daemons. Above the rocky
brow there is a plain of considerable extent, which
reaches to the great steeps of the snowy fir-clad
summit commonly known by the name of 'Elato 2 ;
in the middle of this elevated plain stands Aghia
Thymia, or Athymia, a small village distant an
hour and a half from Salona, in the road to Ga
laxidhi, which passes near Kuski. At Athymia
are considerable remains of the walls of a Hellenic
town, which seems to be the Myonia of Pausanias,
described by him as a small inland polis 30 stades
from Amphissa, in a lofty position, having a grove
and an altar sacred to the gods called Meilichii,
1 Ubpratg. " aTOv"E\arov.

xxi.J locris. 593
and above the town a temple of Neptune, which
had been deprived of its statue \ The roads
leading from Salona besides those of Delphi and
Myonia, are, 1. Lidhoriki, 2. a pass not less
important than the Parnassia Nape, as it conducts
to the head of the Maliac gulf, and to Thessaly.
This route ascends a small valley which branches
to the north-north-east of that of Salona, and is
watered by a stream which, united with other
torrents from the adjacent mountains, joins the
river of Salona. At the extremity of the valley
the road mounts the side of Parnassus by a steep
zig-zag well-paved road, enters a ravine which
separates Parnassus from the Locro-JEtolian range,
and descends by a similar ravine to Gravia, the
ancient Cytinium.
The nearest point of the Gulf to Salona is a
harbour named Larnaki, beyond which is a cape
called Triporu, separating Larnaki from the bay
of Galaxidhi. In a line between Triporu and the
opposite cape near Skliri are two small islands,
and close to Galaxidhi is the much larger one of
St. George. Larnaki is the skala of Salona, where
its oil is embarked, but the port is frequented only
by small vessels, Galaxidhi being the best harbour
in this bay, and at present the most frequented in
the whole Corinthiac gulf. The town is situated
on a peninsula, possesses forty ships, and as many
coasting boats, and for several years was rapidly
increasing in houses and population, until it was
checked by the oppression of Aly Pasha, which
1 Pausan. Phocic. c. 38.
VOL. II. Q q

594 locris. [chap.
has driven many of its most industrious inhabit
ants to Vostitza and Patra.
Some remains of Hellenic walls at Galaxidhi
show that it occupies the site of an ancient city,
probably GEantheia, which from several authors
appears to have been the chief town on this part
of the coast of Locris ] ; and from Pausanias to
have been the only maritime city in Locris re
maining in his time, except Naupactus2, both
these places having probably owed that advantage
to the same conveniences of situation and har
bour to which the present superiority of 'Epakto
and Galaxidhi may be attributed. According to
Polybius, (Eantheia was opposite to iEgeira, in
Achaia 3, which is perfectly suitable to Galax
idhi, with reference to the site of JEgeira at
Vlogoka. Of (Eantheia, Pausanias relates only
that it stood on the sea-coast of Locris, and
that above the town there was a grove of pine
and cypress, containing a temple of Diana, the
walls of which were adorned with paintings,
almost obliterated by the effects of time. If
CEantheia was at Galaxidhi, Larnaki, where some
Hellenic remains are reported to exist, is probably
the site of Chalasum, noticed as a town of Locris
by Hecataeus 4 and Thucydides 5 ; placed by Pto
lemy on the coast between CEantheia of Locris,
and Crissa of Phocis 6, and by Pliny at only seven
1 Hecataeus et Hellanicusap. 2 Pausan. Phocic. c. 38.
Stephan. in OldvBv. — Polyb. 3 Polyb. 1. 4, c. 57.
1. 4, c. 57 ; 1. 5, c. 17.— Plin. i Ap. Stephan. in XaXatoi'.
H.N. 1. 4, c. 2. —Mela. 1. 2, s Thucyd. 1. 3, c. 101.
c. 3.— Polyaen. 1. 8, c. 46. ° Ptolem. 1. 3, c. 15.

xxi.J locris. 595
miles from Delphi l, which, although considerably
too little for the distance of Larnaki from Kastri,
favours at least the supposition that it was in some
part of the Crissaean bay, not far from Delphi.
Pliny had perhaps confounded Chalaeum with
Cirrha, which was about 7 miles from Delphi.
Feb. 11. — This afternoon I make another at
tempt to ascertain the site of the Hippodrome of
the Pythian Games, which, according to Pausa
nias, was at the foot of the mountain going from
Delphi to Cirrha, and I find in a small retired
level, called Komara, immediately below Krisso,
and inclosed between two projections of its hill,
on one of which stands a small church, some
ancient squared blocks in the fields, and near
them on the foot of the rocks a ruin of small
stones and mortar. This koXttoc or bay of the
plain which is separated only by the south-east
ern of the two projections from the vale of the
Pleistus, and just at its entrance, leading to
Delphi, seems to have been admirably adapted to
the Hippodrome, as the sides of the hills would
accommodate an immense number of spectators ;
the site is very low and now marshy, but as the
Pythian Games were celebrated in the summer,
this characteristic of the place was no objection.
It is probable that the hippodromes of Greece,
like our race-courses, were seldom much indebted

1 Proximi iEtolis Locri Ozo- M. P. introrsus liberum oppi-
las . . . . Ultra Cirrhai dum Delphi.— Plin. H. N. 1. 4,
Phocidis campi, oppidum Cir- c. 3.
rha, portus Chalaeon a quo VII.
Q q 2

596 LOCRIS. [chap.
to art, and that for this reason little or no remains
of them are to be found.
Feb. 12. — From Salona to Lidhoriki : we set
out at 8.15, and immediately ascend the steep
mountain at the back of the town, by a winding
craggy road. At 9.50 enter the region of firs and
snow, and at 10.25 reach the crest of the ridge,
where the road passes through a hollow between
two of the highest peaks. The view from hence
comprehends all the summits of JEtolia ; the chain
of locris and Doris, of which this ridge forms one
of" the links ; Parnassus, divided from it by the pass
of Cytinium, and to the right of Parnassus, Helicon,
and the Oneia of Megaris. Below us is seen the plain
of Amphissa, and a part of the Crissaean Gulf. The
pass leads into a narrow vale between fir-clad sum
mits, along which, after a delay of a quarter of an
hour, our road proceeds, and then descends by a
rocky path to the small village of Karutes, where
we arrive at noon precisely. We here come in
sight of a deep valley, watered by a river which
has its rise in the summit of Mavrolithari, and
joins the sea not far eastward of 'Epakto, where it
has the name of Mormos or Mornos. Beyond the
vale are seen other high mountains, having a direc
tion nearly parallel to these, and comprehending
the district of Kravari. Karutes, lying on a fre
quented derveni, which takes its name from this
place, suffers greatly from Albanian soldiers : the
name of Aly Pasha begins again to be mentioned
with dread and hatred, and in consequence of his
oppressive system, numerous families are conti
nually leaving these parts for the Morea. In the

xxi. J locris. 597
church is a fragment of an inscription, in which the
following letters only are distinguishable :
4>OIAEA<J>ONEnOIHCAN . . . KAI . . .
From Karutes there are two roads to Lidhoriki :
one descends a rema below the village, and makes
the circuit of the head of a valley in which a tor
rent flows to Lidhoriki, and from thence to the
Morno ; the other passes over a ridge of the moun
tains, and descends directly upon that town, which
is closely surrounded by lofty hills covered with
trees. We take the latter route, leaving Karutes
at 12.55, arriving at the top of the ridge at 1.30,
and at Lidhoriki1 at 2.45. The descent is by a
steep path through firs, and afterwards over culti
vated slopes equally steep.
At Lidhoriki I am lodged in the house of the
Voivoda Ferat Aga, who is son of the Divan Ef-
fendi of Aly Pasha, and has thirty or forty dirty ill-
clothed Albanians in his service, who as usual are
rather troublesome by their inquisitive curiosity,
though not uncivil. The Aga's house is in the
true Albanian fashion, dirty and comfortless ; but he
hospitably resigns to me his only tolerable apart
ment, where he joins me at the supper which he
provides. He states that there are not more than
a hundred and twenty houses in the town, all
Turkish except about fifteen or twenty ; and that
there are upwards of forty villages in the district,
all Greek.
One hour from hence, towards Malandrina, he

Aoicii

OlpiKlOV.

598 locris. [chap.
describes some ruins of a Hellenic castle, at the
village of Paradhisia \ and another at a place called
Polyportu, on the sea shore, half an hour below
Petrinitza or Vetronitza, which is four hours distant
from Lidhoriki. In Trazonia, an island off the
coast, are some remains of the same kind as those
found in the islands at the mouth of the Gulf of
Aspra Spitia, probably Christian and Monastic.
Half an hour beyond Paradhisia are seen some re
mains of foundations, and there are others at a
khan and church on the outside of the town of
Malandrina. Both these seem, by the description
of Ferat Aga, to be Hellenic. The river which
near 'Epakto bears the name of Morno, is here
more commonly called Mega, or the Great ; it rises
on the southern face of the highest summit of CEta,
flows along the eastern side of Mount Vardhusi in
a deep valley included between that summit and
those called Sykia. and Kiona, which form the
chain extending northward from Salona and Li
dhoriki, and' are separated from Parnassus by the
pass of Cytinium. After receiving two other streams
near Lidhoriki, the Mega passes through a narrow
strait, and from thence traverses a region which,
though entirely mountainous, is by no means un
cultivated ; after which it again passes through a
narrow opening in the mountains, much longer
than the former, and bordered by very lofty preci
pices, and then, after crossing a narrow maritime
plain, joins the sea at the distance of one hour to
the eastward of 'Epakto.
1 IlapacWia.

xxi. J locris. 599
On the western side of Mount Vardhusi originates
the Fidhari or Evenus, the course of which is at
first westerly, dividing the district of Karpenisi
from that of Kravari : afterwards south-west, di
viding Apokuro from Kravari, and at length issuing
from the mountains into the paralian plain of
Bokhori at Kurtaga, the site of Calydon, where it
divides Karlili from Venetiko. From Kravari the
Evenus receives many streams, but its most distant
source, like that of the Morno, is in the highest
summits of Mount CEta.
Feb. 13. — Proceeding from Lidhoriki this morn
ing at eight, we follow a torrent which flows
through the town, and which, increased by another
collected in the ravines to the south of Lidhoriki,
unites with the Mega half an hour below the town.
This river then passes through the Steno, or strait
already mentioned, which is a short rocky gorge
formed by the projections of the two mountains,
where the river is crossed by a bridge of a single
arch, founded at either end on the rocks. Having
sent my baggage horses by the direct route across
the bridge to the right bank of the Mega, I turn off
to the right of the road to examine a Paleokastro
standing on the point which forms the right bank
of the Steno. At 8.45, ford the Mega ; which ac
cording to my Lidhorikiote guide, has its sources
partly in Mount Dremtja, probably Tpe/uirfrt, which
adjoins Mount Katavothra, but is supplied also
from the summits near Mavrolithari.
At the foot of the hill of the Paleo-kastro, we
cross the river Velukhi by a bridge. This stream,
which joins the Mega just below the place where
we crossed it, issues from the mountain at less than

600

LOCRIS.

[chap.

a mile above the Paleokastro, and is so copious in
times of rain, that together with the Mega it over
flows the whole valley. The Velukhi, from this
circumstance, seems to be the emissory of a kata
vothra. The ancient city, which was of considerable
extent, occupied all the north-eastern face of the
hill looking towards the valley of the Mega. Its
walls, which are of the third order, are traceable
in the whole circumference, and remain, to a con
siderable height, in the lower part of the site : on
the summit of the hill are the ruins of a modern
castle. The position is the extreme point of the
range of Vardhusi , between which and another pa
rallel but lower mountain, called Vlakho-vuni,
flows the Kokkino, or Red river, a stream nearly
as large as the Mega, and which joins it imme
diately below the Steno. Thus the city was de
fended by two large streams on the east, a third on
the west, and a fourth flowing through a rocky open
ing on the south.

Part of
Mount Vardhusi

XXI. J LOCRIS. 601
On the bank of the Velukhi are a khan and some
mills; the place is called Velukhovo1, and the
ruins Xuria2.
The sons of Aly Pasha sometimes come here in
summer to make keif3, that is, to feast and be
merry, when it is happy for the villages around if
they are not called upon to contribute something
more than mere provisions.
From the Paleo-kastro I proceed to rejoin my
baggage at the end of the Steno, and then cross
ing the Kokkino at 9.50, descend a narrow valley
grown with kalambokki, and at 10.25 enter a
ravine between woody hills, where the Morno, in
creased to a large river by the junction of the
Kokkino, flows along the bottom with great ra
pidity. Having forded it at 11.20, we continue
our route on the left bank, through a forest of oak,
ilex, and prinari, in which we cross many streams
rushing from the mountains on the left to join the
main river. At 12, a lofty peaked mountain, which
gives rise to one of these tributaries, is three miles
on the left ; on the other side of it is the town of
Malandrina. The road now recedes from the river,
mounts the hills, which are steep, uncultivated,
and covered with small meagre oaks *, and be-

1 Names of Bulgaric origin, 2 Sovpiag to Kaarpov, a corn-
derived from a word meaning mon name in Greece for ancient
white. Mount Tymphrestus ruins.
was undoubtedly named Ve- 3 kSo> Kapvovv rb ke^i arb
hikhi, from its being generally KaXoKaipi.
covered with snow; the river 4 citVcSpa.
from the colour of the waters
in times of rain.

602 locris. [chap.
comes so extremely bad that the wretched menzil
horses of Lidhoriki are unable to keep up with the
walk of the Albanian escort, which the Voivoda
insisted upon my taking, though he would not
allow that any robbers dared to make their ap
pearance in his district. At 1.50, after a very
tedious ascent, we arrive at the khan of Paleuxari,
so called from a village of that name situated not
far below it, and of which the cultivated grounds
descend in the form of terraces to the bank of the
Morno. A similar slope rises from the opposite
bank of the river, to a lofty ridge in the district of
Kravari, which unites Vlakho-vuni with the sum
mits terminating in the maritime peaks opposite to
Patra. The general direction of our route from Lidho
riki is towards the great opening before alluded to,
through which the Morno passes to the sea-coast,
and which separates the termination of the moun
tains we are following, from the south-eastern end
of another mountain called Makryvoro. The sum
mit of Mount Kaki-skala, opposite Patra, appears
through the opening. The only village in sight is
Vetolista, not far from the left bank of a large
branch of the Morno, which descending from
Mount Makryvoro in a direction at first eastward,
and then southward, forms in the latter part of its
course the boundary of Kravari and Lidhoriki.
Below the junction of this stream with the Morno,
the Morno itself is the boundary of the two dis
tricts, as far as the gorge at the end of Makryvoro.
Above Vetolista, the boundary is about midway
between the summits of Mounts Vlakhovuni and

XXI. J LOCRIS. 603
Durdjova ', which last is midway between the
former and Makryvoro. Quitting the khan at
2.40, we continue to pass through oak forests and
rugged muddy paths until 3.30, when we arrive at
a ridge from whence the road begins to descend
towards the sea-coast, and from whence there is
an interesting view of the entrance of the Gulf of
Corinth, with its two castles, and the coast of the
Morea as far as Cape Araxus and the sea near
Khlomutzi. On the descent, at an hour and a
half short of the maritime plain, the day is so ad
vanced that it becomes necessary to consider
where we shall halt for the night, 'Epakto being
too distant, and there being no intermediate place
on the road, except a fyipoykvi, or dry khan, that
is to say, where no persons are in attendance, and,
what is more important, where no provisions can be
obtained for the cattle. After a debate of twenty
minutes, it is resolved to go to the monastery of
Varnakova, which is situated on the summit of a
steep ridge, among the oak forests to the right.
A Turk, who owns most of the horses, consents,
with great reluctance, to this movement, as in
creasing our distance. He is overruled, however,
by the Albanian soldiers, and after mounting
through the forest, and over some steep hills,
among which we pass by a zevgalati, or farm of
the Monastery, we arrive at the latter at 6.15:
my baggage half an hour after.
Admittance is refused on the plea of orders given
by the Voivoda himself not to open the doors after
1 Tovpr£ojia.

604 LOCRIS. [chap.
sunset. Another conference, therefore, arises on
this question, which the fears of the monks, the
national love of argument, and the inconvenience of
parleying through the door, render very long, but
above all, the difficulty of making them under
stand the nature of such anomalous characters as
myself and attendants, no such having ever before
been seen in these mountains. At length some of
my escort being well known to the Albanian gar
rison within, the doors are opened, after a aelay of
an hour and a half, and not before I had spread
my mattress on the ground, prepared to pass the
night on the outside.
Between monks and Albanian soldiers the house
is well filled : to the latter it affords good quarters,
and a convenient post for their operations against
the thieves, who are thus completely deprived of
the assistance of the monks, formerly one of their
best resources.
The monastic establishment amounts to thirty,
of whom more than half are cosmics. In their
savage and dirty appearance they rival their Alba
nian garrison, though it would seem that the
finances of the monastery are not in a bad state, as
they are now engaged in building a new church.
Feb. 14. — Varnakova stands in the midst of a
forest of small oaks, in a very lofty situation. Its
cultivated fields, mixed with pasture and wood
land, occupy the declivities of the mountain as far
as the river Morno, beyond which there is a large
metokhi similarly surrounded. These, with thresh
ing floors and magazines dispersed among the fields,
form an agreeable scene, and show that the monks

XXI. J LOCRIS. 605
have hitherto been enabled to cultivate their lands,
notwithstanding the robbers who infest these moun
tains. But Aly Pasha and his agents are much
greater enemies to such property than the kleftes.
The monks assert, that Ferat Aga has lately robbed
them of three tjiftliks and nine purses of money.
They point out the situation of a Hellenic ruin a
little below the junction of the stream which de
scends from Mount Makryvoro and passes near
Vetolista. Between this point and Paleuxari is
Lykokhori, belonging to Ferat Aga.
Having returned to the Zevgalati, we proceed
from thence into the high road at a spot half an
hour in advanee of the place where we left it yes
terday evening. Here, at 8.45, on the summit of
the ridge to the right, and just opposite to the
Zevgalati, are the remains of a Hellenic fortress.
Towards the sea the hill presents a steep rocky
precipice, but in the opposite direction, or that of
the Zevgalati, falls gently to a small torrent. The
slope is entirely covered with the fragments of
buildings, among which are some wrought stones,
and the summit of the height retains considerable
vestiges of an acropolis. The masonry is of that
ruder sort which is often found in the mountainous
regions and small towns of Greece, the stones being
smaller, narrower, and less carefully wrought than
was customary in the better kinds of Hellenic ma
sonry. In descending from this ridge towards the
sea coast, Mount Trikorfu is a conspicuous object
on the left : our path, which is steep and rugged,
passes through a woody uncultivated tract.
At 9.25 we again arrive at a place where are

606 LOCRIS. [chap.
many squared stones, and a little farther some
other similar indications of an ancient site, but as
the form of the ground does not resemble that of a
polis, I am inclined to think that there was nothing
here but a fortress, dependent, perhaps, upon the
larger place which occupied the commanding posi
tion on the summit of the pass. At 10.15 we reach
the foot of the mountain, at a place called Magula,
where is some cultivated land around a khan which
has been lately built by the Voivoda of Lidhoriki,
and is hence named the Khan of Ferat Aga. It
stands on the edge of a narrow plain two miles
long, bounded by the mountains we have de
scended, towards the north; and on the opposite
side by a range of lower heights, beyond which is
a maritime plain, forming part of the territory of
'Epakto. On the highest of the latter hills, and
on the last towards the river Morno, stands a Hel
lenic castle.
At 11.20 we pursue our route down the plain :
at 11.38 cross a stream, the source of which, named
Ambla, is at the foot of the mountain hard by, and
is said never to fail in summer. After being joined
by a torrent, which is dry in that season, though
now containing water, the united stream flows out
of the plain through a gorge to our right, and
then crosses the maritime plain to the Morno.
At 11.48 we arrive at the foot ofthe height, upon
which the Paleokastro stands : its walls were of
the third species of masonry, and it occupied only
the round summit of the hill.
At 12.15 we enter the plain here called Pilala,
and which, under different names, extends from

XXI.] LOCRIS. 607
'Epakto nearly as far as the foot of Mount Trikorfii :
at 12.28 recross the Ambla, just before its junction
with the Morno, and at 12.32 begin to ford that
river just at its issue from the great ravine already
described as being at the eastern end of Mount
Makryvoro. The opening is about two miles in
length, and affords no passage, but along the bed
of the river ; and as this consists of a wide extent of
gravel separated by many streams, which in sea
sons of rain unite into one, the river when in that
state can neither be crossed nor the ravine passed
longitudinally ; at present there is no difficulty in
passing in either direction. Below the opening
the river spreads to a great breadth, and in cross
ing the plain bends towards 'Epakto, joining the
sea at about two miles from that town. At a mile
from its mouth, on the left bank, stands the village
of Malamata. We are ten minutes in fording the
several streams and intermediate strips of gravel,
after which we pass along the foot of Mount Ri
gani, a lofty summit forming a part of the mass of
Makryvoro, and rising immediately above 'Epak
to. As the name Rigani is of Hellenic derivation,
and derived from the plant origanum, this perhaps
was the ancient appellation ofthe mountain, though
it nowhere occurs in history. A little eastward of
'Epakto a plentiful source of water issues from the
mountain, turns mills, waters gardens, and then
joins the sea. We enter the gate of the fortress at
1.50. Our horses are so nearly at the extent of
their powers, that our pace has been slower than
it was yesterday.
Naupactus, though chiefly deriving its import-

608 LOCRIS. [chap.
ance in the meridian ages of Hellenic history
from its harbour at the entrance of the Corinthiac
Gulf, was indebted probably for its earliest found
ation to its strong hill, fertile plains, and copious
supply of running water. The plain on the western
side of the town, which extends to Mount Kakis-
kala, is about a mile in width in the part near the
town. It is covered with olives and corn-fields,
together with some vineyards. Pilala to the east
ward is bare, but produces maize, cotton, and a
few vines, which, as usual among the continental
Greeks, are in low marshy situations, though ex
perience constantly shows that good wine is grown
only on the hills. But such situations require
more labour than the plains ; the latter yield
larger fruit and more plentiful crops, and there is
no sufficient demand in Greece for the wine of
higher price, which would be the produce of the
heights. The fortress and town occupy the south-eastern
and southern sides of a hill which is one of the
roots of Mount Rigani, and reaches down to the
sea, separating the plain of Pilala from that to
wards the castle of Rumili and Mount Kakiskala.
The place is fortified in the manner which was
common among the ancients in positions similar to
that of 'Epakto, that is to say, it occupies a trian
gular slope with a citadel at the apex, and one
or more cross walls on the slope, dividing it into
subordinate inclosures. At 'Epakto there are no
less than five inclosures between the summit and
the sea, with gates of communication from the one
to the other, and a side gate on the west leading

xxi. J locris. 609
out ofthe fortress from the second inclosure on the
descent. It is not improbable that the modern
walls follow exactly the ancient plan of the for
tress, for in many parts they stand upon Hellenic
foundations, and even retain large pieces of the
ancient masonry amidst the modern work. The
present town occupies only the lowest inclosure ;
in the middle of which is the small harbour which
made so great a figure in ancient history : it is now
choked with rubbish, and is incapable of receiving
even the larger sort of boats which navigate the
gulf. 'Epakto contains within its walls about 400
Turkish families, and 30 of Jews. The Turks
live in ruinous houses in misery and poverty, too
proud to work, and by their insolence and oppres
sion preventing the Greeks from settling here.
The latter, as usual in the fortified towns of
Turkey, are not permitted to reside within the
walls ; their houses form a suburb on either side,
in each of which are about 100 houses, but not
more than half of them are now inhabited. The
Greeks are employed only in cultivating the gar
dens and the orange and lemon plantations, which
would flourish here by means of the plentiful sup
ply of water, if the lawless, hungry attendants of
the Pasha did not destroy and consume every
thing before it comes to maturity. Such is the
misery of the place that W., the same medical
practitioner whom I left last year at Marathonisi,
and who has transferred his services from the
Maniates to the Pasha of 'Epakto, complains that
neither herbs, nor oil, nor wine, are to be bought
VOL. II. r r .

610 LOCRIS. [chap.
here, or nearer than Patra ; and that he pays
24 paras an oke for the flesh of an old goat,
while 20 is the price of the best mutton in the
latter town.
Feb. 15. — I visit Musa Pasha, and his Kiaya.,
who is also Hasnadar ; the Kiaya. first, according
to custom. Musa was governor of Saloniki, and
was sent here as a kind of exile. He is chiefly
supported by contributions from the neighbouring
districts, and even from Vostitza, and some other
places in the Morea. The Pashalik formerly in
cluded all the country as far as the Sanjaks of
Arta and 'Egripo, and thus comprehended the
greater part of Acarnania, jEtolia, and Locris.
But Aly Pasha has reduced it to little beyond the
walls of this town. Musa is of a Larissaean family,
and has 150 purses a year in land in the Mol-
lalik. 'Epakto brings him in as much more ; but
the demands of the Porte, and the presents which
he is obliged to make there, render him so poor,
that, according to the expression of my informant,
his pilav is made with oil for want of butter. His
servants, not without the connivance of their master,
lately stole some fire-wood which had been pre
pared at Psatho-pyrgo by Mr. S., our consul at
Patra, to be embarked for Malta ; the quantity
taken has sufficed for the whole winter consump
tion of the Pasha's hamam and kitchen. He is
now endeavouring to accumulate a sufficiency of
purses to purchase the Pashalik of the Morea
for the next year. His money must be ready for
the approaching Bairam, when the list of governors
in office is presented to the Sultan, who declares

XXI. J LOCRIS. 611
the changes at the Kurban Bairam seventy days
after the former. The Porte has lately demanded
from Musa between forty and fifty thousand pias
tres' worth of corn to be sent to Constantinople,
allowing, according to custom, a price to the
growers, for which they can hardly raise it. The
Pasha, as usual with Turks in adversity, is very
humble and civil. Like the generality of those
in high station, both he and his Kiaya have some
pretensions to science, the Kiaya. talks geography
and politics, the Pasha, medicine.
The richest Turkish proprietor in 'Epakto is
Adem Bey, whose father was Pasha ; he has up
wards of 150 purses a year, and has the character
of a <E>iAo££voc, spending his income in hospitality.
He has lately built a house here which, although
little better than a Frank barn in workmanship
and materials, is considered as something extra
ordinary ; but building is very costly in Greece,
as well on account of the high price of mechanical
labour, as because plank, glass, nails, every thing
but the stone and mortar, comes from Trieste and
Fiume. A tolerable house cannot be built under
10,000 piastres, which, although not more than
£.600 sterling, is a large sum for this poor country.
Feb. 16. — Embark at 'Epakto for the Morea
Castle1.

The route which I have just followed from Sa
lona to 'Epakto was chiefly undertaken with a view
to illustrate a part of the history of Thucydides,
which contains, with the exception of a passage
1 For the sequel, see Travels in the Morea, vol. ii. ch. 15.
Rr 2

612 LOCRIS. [chap.
in Livy, and a few words by the geographical
writers, almost all that the ancients have left us,
descriptive of the interior of Locris and .ZEtolia. In
the summer of the sixth year of the Peloponnesian
war, Demosthenes, commander of the Athenian
fleet, being then at Leucas, resolved upon an in
vasion of iEtolia ; and in the autumn of the same
year, a body of Lacedaemonian allies, under the
Spartan Eurylochus, marched from Delphi through
Locris to Naupactus, from whence they proceeded
to Calydon 1. The ultimate object of the expedi
tion of Demosthenes was the same as that which
he again attempted without success in the eighth
year ofthe war, when it led to the battle of Delium,
being no less than to subjugate, or at least to gain
over to the Athenian cause, the whole of Boeotia.
The Messenians of Naupactus recommended him
to begin by invading the Apodoti, then to reduce
the Ophionenses, and lastly the Eurytanes. He
expected to derive great assistance from the Locri,
in consequence of their knowledge of the country,
and because they resembled the iEtolians in their
armour and mode of fighting. They were to join
him when he had made some progress in the in
terior of iEtolia, after which it was his intention
to pass through Locris to Cytinium in Doris, and
then to enter Phocis, where he thought that the
cities, if not inclined to assist him, might be easily
forced to do so. Having effected these objects
he would be enabled to attempt Bceotia in con
cert with the Athenians acting on the Attic
1 Thucyd. 1. 3, c. 94. 100.

XXI. J LOCRIS. 613
frontier of Bceotia. The scheme failed, because
the iEtolians, like the Boeotians in the eighth
year of the war, had obtained information of his
design, but his first disappointment occurred before
he had quitted the coast of Acarnania, the people
of which province, offended with him for having
favoured the Messenians of Naupactus by the expe
dition into vEtolia instead of attending to their own
wishes of besieging Leucas when he was lying before
it with his fleet, refused to join him with their forces.
He nevertheless proceeded to Naupactus, and with
an army composed only of Messenians of Naupac
tus, of 300 Athenian epibatae from his own ships,
and a body of Cephallenes and Zacynthii, began
his march into JEtolia from (Eneon of Locris \
Setting out at the dawn of day from the temple
of Jupiter Nemeius, where his troops had passed
the night, he marched to Potidania2, which he
captured the same day : on the second he took
Crocylium, on the third Tichium. Not having yet
been joined by the Locri Ozolae, of whose light-
armed and javelin-men he was greatly in need 3,
1 Thucydides does not state 2 c. 96. This ^Eolic form
where Demosthenes landed ; it of Posidonia would seem to
might even be inferred that show that a colony of JEolic
the landing was at Sollium race had settled here, probably
in Acarnania, where he met from Elis. The country com-
the Acarnanians and received prehending Calydon, and Pleu-
their refusal ; but this is very ron were named iEolis from
unbkely. He probably landed the same cause. — Thucyd. 1. 3,
either at Naupactus o£ at CEne- c. 102. — Strabo, p. 465. —
on itself, which Stephanus, re- Hesych. in AioXwbv Bkafia.
ferring to this passage in Thu- 3 \piX&v /cat uKovnar&v.—
cydides, describes as a harbour Thucyd. 1. 3, c. 97.
of Locris.

614 LOCRIS. [chap.
he halted at Tichium, and sent his booty to Eupa-
lium, in Locris, intending to retire upon Naupactus,
and from thence to take a new departure against
the Ophionenses, if they should not previously
have submitted \ Having been persuaded, how
ever, by the Messenians to continue his proceed
ings against the iEtolian towns without waiting for
the Locri, he captured iEgitium, a town in a
mountainous situation, 80 stades from the sea.
But the inhabitants, who had retired and posted
themselves on the neighbouring hills, having been
joined by a large force of iEtolians, and even by
the Ophionenses of Bomi and Callium, who dwelt
towards the Maliac gulf2, they attacked the Athe
nians incessantly on every side. When by their
superiority in missiles they had exhausted the
arrows of the bowmen of Demosthenes, they
harassed his hoplitae, who being unable to close
with them, were forced at length to retreat in dis
order. Their Messenian guide having been killed,
some fell into narrow ravines, where they were
overtaken by the iEtolians and slain ; others took
refuge in a wood which the enemy set fire to ; the
survivors, with great difficulty, reached (Eneon
and the sea3. Ofthe Athenian hoplitae, 120 were
slain, with Procles one of the commanders. De
mosthenes received his dead under truce, retired
1 kiri 'Oipiovkag, e'i fj.ij jiov- KaBr'iKovrEg Buifiiijg Kal KaX-
Koivto avyxoipE!v,kgNaviraKTOv Xirjg, kfioyByaav.
kiravaxoipr)aag,aTpaTEvaaivaTE- s fioXi^TE kiri rriv BdXaTrav
pov. — c. 96. Kal rbv OlvE&va rijg AoKpicog,
ol kaxaroi 'Oipiovkoiv, ol oBev -£p /cat &ppt)Briaav, ol tte-
irpog tov M/jXtatcoV koXttov piyEvopEioi Karkipvyot: — c. 98.

XXI. J LOCRIS. 615
to Naupactus, and remained there while the ships
returned to Athens.
Before this event the iEtolians had sent an
embassy to Sparta, to desire the assistance of the
Lacedaemonians against Naupactus, and a force was
in consequence collected towards the autumn at
Delphi, under Eurylochus and two other Spartans,
consisting of 3000 hoplitae of the allies of Sparta,
among whom were 500 of Heracleia Trachinia,
which city had been lately founded or rather re
established by a Lacedaemonian colony. The Locri
Ozolae, although they had been so recently united
with the Athenians, not only consented to the
march of Eurylochus through Locris, but even
delivered hostages to him, the people of Amphissa
being the first to set the example, fearful of a joint
attack in case of refusal, from the Lacedaemonians
and from the Phocenses, who were their enemies.
Their example was followed by the neighbouring
town of Myonia which commanded the entrance into
Locris1, then by Ipnus, Messapia,Triteia, Chalaeum,
Tolophon, Hessus or Essus, (Eanthe, Olpae, and
Hyle 2. All these places sent their forces to Eury
lochus as he advanced, except the two last ; Hyle
even refused to give securities until Polis, one of
its dependencies, had been taken. The hostages
1 ravry yap SvaEajioXoirarog iraXia, Oiveoiv. There cannot
y Ao/cpte. — c. 101. be a question that 'YaTot, or
2 For the orthography of Yiatot, in our copies of Thu-
most of the towns of the cydides, ought to be 'YXaTm,
Ozolae, see Stephanus in "Iir- which Stephanus shows to
vog, TpiTEia, XdXaiov, ToXo- have been the gentile of this
ipiov,"Haaog, OldvBy,"YXy, Eh- Hyle.

616 LOCRIS. [chap.
having been sent to Cytinium in Doris, Eurylochus
marched through Locris, took CEneon and Eupa-
lium, two towns of the Locri which had not before
submitted, and entered the Naupactia, where he
was joined by the iEtolians. He then made him
self master of Molycrium, and of an unwalled
suburb of Naupactus, and would have taken the
city itself had not Demosthenes opportunely pre
vailed upon the Acarnanes to send thither 1000
hoplitae by 'sea. Having failed in his principal
design, Eurylochus marched forward to Calydon,
Pleuron, and Proschium, from whence he dis
missed the iEtolians, and where he remained with
his other forces at the persuasion of the Ambra-
ciotae, for the purpose of assisting them against
Amphilochia. There is reason to believe that the territory of
CEneon bordered immediately upon that of Nau
pactus. Thucydides remarks that the Nemeium
of CEneon, from whence Demosthenes commenced
his march, was the place where the poet Hesiod
was said to have been killed ; and Pausanias, in
speaking of the sepulchre of Hesiod, at Orcho
menus in Bceotia, asserts that his bones had been
brought thither from the Naupactia a. It might
be presumed indeed, that CEneon was distant from
the eastern frontier, from its having refused to
join the other cities of Locris, and resisted Eury
lochus until he marched against it. The river
Morno therefore probably separated the territory
of CEneon from the Naupactia : CEneon stood per-
' Pausan Boeot. c. 31. 3S — Procl. in vita Hesiod.

XXI. J LOCRIS. 617
haps at Magula, or near the fountain Ambla, and
the paleo kastro may have been the fortified en
closure of the Nemeium.
The ancient city on the summit of the ridge,
near the zevgalati of Varnakova, was probably
JEgitium, for those remains are at the distance from
the sea, mentioned by the historian, and they are
on the side ofthe Morno, which his narrative seems
also to require, since had iEgitium been to the
westward of the difficult straits, through which that
river emerges into the maritime plain, it would
have been much easier for the routed Athenians to
have retreated upon Naupactus than upon CEneon.
It could not well have been Potidania, for that
town was near Eupalium, as appears from Livy,
in the narrative which he gives on the authority of
Polybius, of a descent made upon this coast by
Philip, son of Demetrius, in the year b.c. 207 '.
And that Eupalium was near the sea, and the
chief town of Locris, intermediate between CEan
theia and Naupactus, seems evident from the two
historians compared with Strabo 2. On the other
1 Inde navibus acceptis ab quod aut in agris aut in pro-
Achaeis (erant autem tres quad- pinquis castellis Potidaniaa at-
riremes et biremes totidem) que Apollonias fuit, in silvas
Anticyram trajecit ; inde quad- montesque refugit. Pecora,
riremibus septem et lembis vi- quae inter festinationem abigi
ginti amplius, quos ut adjun- nequierant, sunt direpta et in
geret Carthaginiensium classi, naves compulsa. Cum his
miserat in Corinthium sinum, ceteraque praeda . . quum Co-
profectus ad Erythras iEtolo- rinthum petisset, &c. — Liv.
rum, quae prope Eupalium 1. 28, c. 8.
sunt, exscensionem fecit. Haud 2 'H Sk "Aptyiaaa kiri ro'ig
fefellit jEtolos : nam hominum, aiqwig 'iBpvrai tov Kpiaaaiov

618 LOCRIS. [chap.
hand, that it was towards the western extremity of
Locris, seems evident from its having resisted
Eurylochus together with CEneon, from its having
been chosen by Demosthenes as the place of de
posit for his plunder, from its having been in the
hands of the iEtolians when their power was
greatest, and when they naturally became masters
of this narrow western extremity of Locris, which
comprehended only the territory of a few maritime
towns ; as well as from Strabo, who describes
iEtolia Epictetus as bordering upon Locris near
Naupactus and Eupalium. Eupalium, therefore,
I conceive, stood in the plain of Marathia, opposite
to the islands Trisonia or Trazonia, where some
ruins of an ancient city still exist on the eastern
side of the plain, at no great distance from the
sea. Erythrae was probably its harbour. Potidania
seems to have bordered on Eupalium, towards the
interior. Crocylium and Tichium were fortresses
still farther in the same direction, probably in
the valley of the Morno, where the ruins near
Lykokhori may correspond to one of them. That
valley having a direction nearly parallel to the
sea-coast, was speedily attained from Potidania,
and was conveniently situated for that retreat upon
Naupactus, which Demosthenes had intended
before his attack of iEgitiuni.
The ruins at Velukhovo seem to be those of the
tteSiov .... /cat OldvBEia /cat 'EiriKryrov Be (rrjv AlroiXiav)
EhirdXtov AoKp&v Elaiv. 'O Be Trjv rdig AoKpdlg avvdirrovaav,
irapdirXovg wag b AoKpiKog piK- org kiri NaviraKrbv te Kal Ev7ra-
poV virEpjidXXEt t&v BiaKoaioiv Xiov — p. 450.
araSioiv. — Strabo, p. 427-

XXI.J LOCRIS. 619
frontier town of the Locri, towards iEtolia and
Doris, which latter district separated the Western
Locri, or Ozolae, from the Eastern or Epicnemidii \
The following reasons favour the opinion, that it
was Hyle. 1. Hyle is a name very appropriate
to such a wild country as that around Velukhovo,
and which was probably in early times still more
of a forest than it is at present. 2. The resistance
of Hyle to Eurylochus, until he had taken its de
pendent fortress Polis, and his having found it
expedient to obtain hostages from Hyle, before he
commenced his march through Locris, are strong
indications of the importance of Hyle, as well
as that it was near Amphissa and the Phocian
frontier. 3. The Morno being the only stream
worthy of notice on the coast between the Evenus
and the Crissaean Gulf, can alone correspond to
the Hylaethus, or Hylaetus, noticed by Dicaearchus
as a river in this part of the country, and which
probably derived its name from Hyle 2. Dicaear
chus is undoubtedly adverse to this supposition,
inasmuch as he places a great harbour and the
city Tolophon between Naupactus and the Hylae-
1 Strabo, p. 425, 427.
2 Et ra pErd raiiryv r) AoKplg KaXovpkvy
'Ev y irbXig Naviraicrog, eTB' viroKElpEvog
Aiprjv pkyag, irbXig te ToXoipoiv' pEra Sk ryv
ToXotp&va irorapbg kaB'"YXai8og [al. "YXatrosJ XEybpEvog.
Tovtov Be p€iv Xkyovaiv e£ AtrwXt'ae.
'O irag Be irapdirXovg oho' oXyg kaB' ffpkpag.
Ovtoi KaroiKovaiv Sk irpbg pEOypjipiav
AiToiXlag, AtXtyEs ro irplv KEKXypkvoi. — Dicaearch. v. 64.
Hylaethus was originally per- that is to say, with a digamma
haps Hylaeusin the^olic form, separating the vowels.

620 LOCRIS. [chap.
thus, which, if this river be identified with the
Morno, is incredible in so short a distance : on
the other hand, his remark that the Hylaethus was
said to flow from iEtolia, implies a large river
having distant sources, and thus accords with the
Morno, which, with the exception of its most
eastern branch, originating in Doris, has its sources
entirely in jEtolia, whereas no stream to the east
ward of the Morno can have any part of its course
in JEtolia. If we suppose Hyle to have stood at
Velukhovo, where the chief branches of the river
collect into one great stream, nothing is more
likely than that the river should have taken its
name from the town which stood at that remarkable
confluence. Polis may, perhaps, have occupied the
site of Karutes, which commanded the pass leading
from Amphissa to the supposed site of Hyle, and
where I found a fragment of a Greek inscription.
If the ruins on the eastern side of the plain op
posite to the islands Trazonia are those of Eupalium,
Tolophon having been the other most important
town on or near the Locrian coast, probably occu
pied the valley of Kiseli, that being the district of
greatest capability next to the plain around the
supposed Eupalium. There are two other places
on this part of the Locrian coast, where I have
undoubted information of the existence of Hellenic
remains. One of these is at Vithari, at a short
distance from the sea on the western side of Cape
Andhromakhi, the other named Polyportu is on the
shore below Vetronitza, on the eastern side of Cape
Psaromyti. Of the latter it is difficult to offer any
conjecture, and possibly it may only have been the
12

XXI. ] LOCRIS. 621
port or maritime fortress of Tolophon, the place
being only an hour distant from Kiseli. As to the
remains at Vithari there is some reason to believe
that they mark the site of Phaestus, for the port of
Apollo Phaestius, so called apparently from a temple
of Apollo which stood there, seems from Pliny to
have been near CEantheia, and as Phaestus although
included by the same writer among the towns of
the interior1, is not one of the Locrian cities enu
merated by Thucydides, we may infer that it was
no more than a subordinate place of the district of
CEantheia. This accords with the ruins at Vithari,
which are those of a fortress of no great extent. The
port of Apollo was probably very near Cape Andhro
makhi. Triteia being described by Stephanus as
between Phocis and the Locri Ozolae 2, would seem
to have been not far from Delphi and Amphissa, on
the edge, perhaps, of the plain of Salona. There
still remain among the Locrian cities named by
Thucydides, some of which the positions are unac
counted for, namely, Messapia, Hessus and Olpae,
to which may be added from Pliny, Argyna and
Calamissus. Olpae, being a name generally attached
to a pass, or commanding elevation, may have been
at Pendornia, which commands the pass leading
1 Proximi jEtolis Locri, qui oppidum Cirrha, portus Cha-
cognominantur Ozolae, immu- laeon, a quo VII. M.P. intror-
nes. Oppidum OSanthe. Portus sus liberum oppidum Delphi. —
Apollinis Phaestii, sinus Cris- Plin. H. N. 1. 4, c. 3.
saeus. Intus oppida Argyna, 2 pETai,v QoiKiSog Kal AoKp&v
Eupalia, Phaestum, Calamissus. t&v 'OfrX&v. Stephan. in Tpt-
Ultra Cirrhaei Phocidis campi, raa.

622 LOCRIS. [chap.
from Athymia or Myonia to Vithari, over the
mountains which terminate in Cape Andhromakhi,
and where I am informed that some Hellenic re
mains are observable1. Paradhisia and Malandrina
are probably the sites of two of the other ancient
towns just named. I have before alluded to an
Anticyra of Locris, which was not far to the east
ward of Naupactus, and situated so near the shore,
that Laevinus battered the walls from his ships.
It is not improbable that Klima, where some
Hellenic vestiges exist, was the site of that town,
and that the lake which now separates Klima from
the sea, may, as in many similar places on the
coast of Greece, have been an harbour or naviga
ble bay.
The part of iEtolia which Demosthenes invaded
was the Eastern portion of the province denomi
nated Epictetus or the acquired ; ancient iEtolia,
according to Strabo, having comprehended
only the maritime country from the Achelous
to the Evenus, together with the fertile interior
plain containing Stratus and Trichonium 2. The
three principal tribes of iEtolia Epictetus, were
the Apodoti, the Ophienses, or Ophionenses, and
the Eurytanes. It is evident from Thucydides, that
1 My information on the si- to 'Epakto by the coast road.
tnation of the Hellenic remains Vithari is written Dhidhavra
on the coast of western Locris, in the map accompanying
I have lately been enabled to " Travels in the Morea ;" I am
correct by the kindness of not certain which is the correct
George Finlay, Esq. who has sound.
travelled by land from Salona 2 Strabo, p. 450.

xxi. J locris. 623
the Apodoti bordered upon Locris, and the Ophi-
enses on the CEtaei, iEnianes, and Dryopes ; the
Eurytanes therefore were situated to the north
ward of the great iEtolian plain, having been
surrounded on the other sides by the Aperantes,
Agraei, Athamanes, Dolopes, Dryopes, and Ophi-
enses1. The Eurytanes thus possessed the great
central summit anciently called Panaetolicum and
now Viena, with the greater part of Vlokho, and
all the country watered by the tributaries of the
Achelous which descend from the range of Panaeto
licum, from Tymphrestus, which was itself in
Dryopis 2, and from the mountains of 'Agrafa.
The extent of country thus occupied by them, and
its position in the centre of the continent, accord
perfectly with Thucydides, from whom it appears
that they were the most numerous, least known,
and most uncivilized of the iEtolian tribes.
Many remains still exist of the towns of -iEtolia
Epictetus, but very few of their names are to be
found in history. In the country of the Apodoti
were those mentioned by Thucydides. In that of
the Ophienses, Bomi and Callium are the only
two known from history. Agrinium, Thestia, and
Thermus seem to have belonged to Eurytania, and
Strabo informs us that CEchalia was a city in the
same division of iEtolia 3. It is very possible that
a careful examination of the country might ascer
tain the exact site of all these places. Bomi was

1 Thucyd. 1. 3, c. 94, et seq. 2 Strabo, p. 433.
Strabo, p. 450, 451. 3 Strabo, p. 448.

624 LOCRIS. [chap.
situated near the sources of the Evenus ", and
Callium, not far to the south-westward of Hypata
of the Mnianes, now Neopatra, as seems evident
from a comparison of Thucydides with the narra
tive given by Pausanias of the expedition of the'
Gauls against Callium, when they were encamped
before Thermopylae, and whence there remains
little doubt that Callium was the same place as the
Callipolis of Livy.
That historian relates that in the year b. c. 191,
when Manius Acilius Glabrio had defeated Antio
chus at Thermopylae and taken Heracleia, he
offered sacrifices to Hercules on that summit of
CEta which was called Pyra from being the spot
where Hercules was said to have destroyed him
self on a burning pile of wood ; and that from
Pyra the consul moved forward to Corax, a very
high mountain lying between Callipolis and Nau
pactus 2, which he crossed . with great difficulty
and loss of beasts of burthen. His route was pro
bably by the vale of the Vistritza into that of the
Kokkino, over the ridges which connect Velukhi
with Vardhusi, but very near the latter mountain,
which is thus identified with Corax. From the
vale of the Kokkino, the consul followed doubtless
that of the Morno towards Naupactus.
1 b S' Evyvog irorapbg apxE- pactum. Liv. 1. 36, c. 30.
rat pkv ek Boipikoiv, t&v kv These words are exactly taken
'OibiEvaiv. Strabo, p. 451. — from Polybius, as appears from
Buipol, Xbipoi AtruiXlag, ol Kar- Stephanus in Kdpa£. Kopa£,
oiKovvTEg Boipislg. — Stephan. bpog pEra£,v KaXXt7rdX£we Kal
in voce. Nawa'/crou. HoXvfiiog EiKoaru.
2 Inter Callipolim et Nau-

additional notes. 641
bans at the end of the Phocic war, and then a dedication of the
Phocians, consisting of Apollo, and Tellias the prophet, with
Rhoeus and Daiphanes, who commanded the Phocians in their
second victory over the Thessalians, and figures of the local
heroes of Phocis ; all these were the works of Aristomedon of
Argos, (see Phocic. c. 1). Next occurred a Jupiter in brass, and
an iEgina, presented by the Phliasii; an Apollo in brass, by
the people of Mantineia ; and then Apollo and Hercules hold
ing the tripod, Latona and Diana endeavouring to pacify
Apollo, and Minerva Hercules. This also was an offering of
the Phocians on the occasion just mentioned. The Minerva
and Diana were the work of Chionis of Corinth, the others of
Diyllus and Amyclaeus of the same place. Of the dedication of the
Greeks after the battle of Plataea, consisting of a golden tripod
upon a brazen serpent, the latter only remained, the gold having
been taken away by the Phocian generals in the Sacred War. Here
was an offering of the Tarentines, from a tenth of the spoils of
the Peucetii, consisting of men both on horse and foot, among
whom were Opis, king of the Iapyges, lying dead, with the La
cedaemonian heroes, Taras and Phalanthus, standing beside the
body, and a dolphin near the latter, signifying that Phalanthus
had been shipwrecked and saved by a dolphin. Certain hatchets,
dedicated by Periclytus, had reference to the history of his native
island Tenedus. Here was also a statue of Apollo, offered by
the Greeks after their victory at Artemisium and Salamis. Near
the great altar was a brazen wolf, consecrated by the Delphi, then
a gilded statue of Phryne by Praxiteles, dedicated by Phryne
herself; then two statues of Apollo, one of which was presented
by the Epidaurii of Argolis after the defeat of the Medes, the
other by the Megarenses, for their victory over the Athenians
near Nisaea : an ox, which the Plataeenses offered after the battle
of Plataea ; two statues of Apollo, one of which was dedicated
by the people of Heracleia in Pontus, the other by the Am
phictyones from the fine imposed upon the Phocenses for having
cultivated the sacred land. The latter was 35 cubits high, and
was surnamed Sitalcas. Next were the offerings of the .IEto
lians after their defeat of the Gauls, consisting of the statues of
several of their commanders on that occasion, together with those
of Diana and Minerva, with two of Apollo ; and a dedication of the
Pheraei when they had put to flight the Athenian cavalry, con-
VOL. II. T t

642 additional notes.
sisting of a statue of Apollo together with that of the leaders of
the Pheraean cavalry on horseback. An armed and gilded Mi
nerva under a brazen palm-tree bearing fruit, and an owl were
presented by the Athenians, when on the same day they gained a
battle by land, and another with their ships on the Eurymedon.
Here was a car, dedicated by the Cyrenaei, bearing Battus their
founder crowned by Libya, with Cyrene as the charioteer ; the
artist was Amphion of Gnossus in Crete. Near this anathema
was an Apollo, produced like the one before mentioned from a fine
imposed upon the people of Phocis by the Amphictyones. Of
the Lydian dedications there remained only the iron stand of the
vase presented by Halyattes, made by Glaucus of Chius, who
invented the art of cementing iron (aiSripov KoXXiraig). That
which the Delphi named the navel of the earth was formed of
white marble. Near it were statues of Hermione, by Cala
mis, and of Eurydamus, general of the iEtolians, against the
Gauls ; the former dedicated by the Lacedaemonians, the
latter by the iEtobans. A brazen goat suckling two infants,
Philacides and Philandrus, was presented by the people of
Elyrus, a town in the mountains of Crete. There were also
a brazen ox, consecrated by the Carystii of Euboea after the
defeat of the Medes ; statues of Apollo and Diana and of
some of the iEtolian commanders, presented by the iEto
lians when they had defeated their neighbours the Acar-
nanes ; 20 statues of Apollo, sent by the Liparaei for having
taken as many Tyrrhene triremes, and a small Apollo dedicated
by Echecratides of Larissa, and said to have been the earliest
offering made to the god of Delphi. Next occurred a brazen
image of Sardus, sent by the people of the island Sardo : a horse
presented by Callias, an Athenian, who had enriched himself in
the Persian war : a Minerva, dedicated by the Achaeans when
they took the city of Phana in iEtolia : an Apollo by the Rho-
dians of Lindus : an ass by the Ambraciotas, in memory of an
accident which had enabled them to defeat the Molossi ; and
the representation of a sacrifice and procession in bronze, which
the Orneatae of Argolis had sent as a compromise for the execu
tion of a vow, by which, when oppressed by the Sicyonii, they
had bound themselves to perform daily processions and sacri
fices at Delphi, if they should succeed in driving the enemy from
their land. Hercules destroying the hydra, in iron, the work and

ADDITIONAL NOTES.

Note I.

Chapter XL— Page 101.
Inscriptions at Dhavlia (Daulis).
1.
'AyaBy rvxy ahroKpdropi Tpa'iav& 'ASpiavy Kaiaapi —EJiaanp
to ji' , Yvaioi IIecWiw <bovaKij> SaXEivaropt virdroig, irpb & K.
No«Ev/3ptW, kv Xatpa/j/Et'a, Zonrvpog ' ' Apiarloivog Kal Uappkvoiv
Zoiirvpov, ot kySiKoi rijg AavXikoiv irb\E0>g kpaprvpoiroirfaavTO dirb-
ibaaiv dvnyEypdipBai rrjv SoBE'iaav virb T. <bXaoviov EhjiovXov
rrjv viroyEypafipkvyv. T. $Xaoutoe EvjiovXog, b BoBElg Kpirrjg Kal
bpiarr)g virb Kaialov Ma£t'^ov avdvirdrov /cat rypriBslg virb OiaXt-
pt'ou —Eovypov avBvirdrov pETa^v Zoiirvpov tov 'Apiarloivog /cat
IIapp;eVtiJ>'Oc: tov Zoiirvpov Kal Mtjuyutou ' Avtioxov irEpl x^Pa€ dp-
(jriajiriTOvpkvyg aKova(ag) EKarkpov pkpovg k(f>' oaov kjiovXovro (cat
E7ri rrjv ahroipiav kXBoiv, KEXEvaavrog pE diroijirjvaaBai KXoiSiov
Tpaviavov tov Kpariarov dvBvirarov, /cptiVaz KaB&g viroykypairrai.
'Aypou Apviririov bv rjybpaaE irapa T&v KXkag KXypovbpoiv Mkp-
ptog ' Avr'ioxog, KaraXajibpevog e/c t&v kiri fXE KopiaBkvroiv ypafi-
fidroiv irpooi\KEiv 'AvTioxf irXkBpa <5>oiKiKa vXk, oaa av EvpEBrj
ttXeioi tovtoiv KpEivoi Eivai rrjg AavXikoiv irbXEOig. 'Ofiotoig dypov
Eh^vXEiag irXkBpa vX' KpEtvoi slvai 'Avnbxov, rd Be Xoiird rijg trb-
XEOig. Trjv Be dpxrjv rijg pETpiiaEOig KpEivoi yEvkaBai rr)g x<^PaG
SBev av (iovXrirai 'Avrioxog kv EKaripoiv t&v ayp&v Apviririip /cat
EhfyXEiq, ev Sk TTXardvip /cat Moaxoroukaig fxia kir' dfjuporkpoig
aPX^ Tve pErpriaEOig iarai, pErpovpkvoiv dirb rijg BoBEiarig dpxvg
T&v kdiE^yg, pi) kXXoyovfikvaiv Ta'ig fiErpr)aEaiv hiraaaig ur)rE pEi-
s s 2

628 additional notes.
Bpoiv prfTE baa rpaxka bvra /cat pr) BvvapEva yEoipys'iaBai virsp
SUa ofvpag kariv. Tlaprjaav' T. $>Xaoviog EvjiovXog dirEtpyvaprfv
Kal kaijipdyiapai. A. Mkarpiog JioiKXapog, KXsopkvyg KXEopkvovg,
THeIkoiv 2vpcj>bpov, Aafiirpiag NEiKoivog, Zwirvpog 'Avnirarpov,
'—oiaijiiog ApaKoivog, Nei'/cwv 'AXe£aVcSpov, Akoiv QeoBotov, KaX\oiv
&{/XaKOg, Kdaaiog Mapnavov. tyyipiapan rrjg irbXEOig.
2.
'OBbg Sk r\ kiri rbv ' Apxaykrr\v ki.Ei irXdrog KaXdpovg Svo' rd Be
arjfiEia Kal rovg opovg rijg fiErprjaEoig kvxapdl,ovai Koivy Evrog
rijg EiKaSog tov BoiSekutov p-qvbg, r)p&v brav kvx"-PaX^^"Tl eiteXev-
aofiivoiv ahrovg. IlEpl dypov Apvirirlov Kara rrjv n poKopiaBE~iaav
XEipa hwb —epairidBog Zoiirvpov tov kyS'iKov Kal t&v irEpl QiXoiva
2oiatKpdrovg Kal Adpoiva Zoiirvpov dpxbvroiv KpsivofiEV, e'i ti Xeiitei
no dp&fiui e/c rrjg diroipdaEoig rijg EhjiovXov TErpaKoaioiv rpiaKovra
ttevte irXkdpoiv, tovtov exeiv airairrfaiv —EpairidSa dirb rijg Aav
Xikoiv irbXEOig. Tlapijaav' Kovppiog AhrojiovXog KEKpiKa /cat rrjv
irpoirrfv koippdyioa, Nt/cr/^opoc: AvKopr)Sovg KEKpiKa, 'Ayaalag Tei-
fioivog KEKpiKa, EC. A'iXioe Aapb'fevog katypdyioa TETaprtjv. Eiai-
B(orog) irkfiirrriv. TArirpoSoipog 'AiroXXoBbrov 'AvriKvpEvg. Nt/ca'-
pETog Tliarov TiBopEvg, Tvpavvog Tvpdvvov katppdyia/xai. 'Akiv-
Svvog KaXXiKpdrovg TiBopEvg. Et£. KopvrjXtoe 'Aaioxog- Evvovg
'Eira<j>pa.. KaXXiykvrig KXeoveikov kaippdytKa TiBopEvg.
Note II.
Chapter XL — Page 114.
The following are the forms of liberation in the inscription of the
church at Kapurna (Chaeroneia). In the original the iota is
omitted in the termination of the dative cases.
1.
"Ap^ovros Zw't'Xov tov EhdvBpov, firjvbg 
Atovutrtos Hiiplov Kal WapBkva ' ApiaroviKov dipiaai rr)v iBiav
SovXrjv 'Eppaiav k\Ev8kpav, hpdv t& SapaVt, irapafiEivaaav
Hapdkva koig av £jj dvEVKXr]Toig, fir) irpoar)Kovaav firjBkvi [lyBkv,
r/)v dvdBEaiv iroiovpEVOi Bid tov avvESpiov /caret tov vbfiov.
2.
" Apxovrog AioKXkovg tov "Zippiov, pyvbg 'OpoXoiiov irEVTEKaiBE-
Kary, AE'tlirira 'ABavlov, irapovrog avry tov dvSpbg Sa/it^ov tov

additional notes. 629
<I>iXoi;fVov, dvarlByai rag ISiag BoiiXag KaXXtSa /cat YlvBiv Kal
rb e/c rrjg KaXXlBog iraiBdpiov, al bvofia N(Vui>', hpovg rip" -Epa-rriBi,
irapapEivavrag AE^lirira EbjiovXov, ry Kara (pvaiv pov papfiy,
iravra rbv rijg Zoifjg ahrijg xpbvov dvEVKXyroig' ra ce yEWyBEvra
ki, ahr&v kv t& rijg irapafiovijg XP°VU) karoiaav SovXa AE^iTrirag
rijg 'ABavioV rrjv dvdBEaiv iroiovpkvy Sid tov avvEBplov Kara tov
vbpov. 3.
"Apxovrog EhdvBpov, pyvbg' AXaXKopEvr)ov rpiaKaSi, 'AyaBoKXrjg
EhdvBpov dvariByai rovg IBlovg SovXovg Z&atpov Kal Evpoiva
hpoig tov —EpdiriBog, irapapEivavrag dvEVKXr)roig Eavrif Kal ry
yvvaid uov BovKaria, Trjv dvdBEaiv iroiovpEvog Bid tov avvEBplov
/caret rbv vbpov. 4.
Myvbg 'AXaXKopEVEtov irEVTEKaiBEKary, Kycf>iaoSoipa Kpdroivog
irapbvrog avrij tov irarpbg Kpdroivog dtplyai Tr)v iSlav BovXyv
EvapEpiSa hpdv —EpairiBog, iroiovpkvy rr)v dvdBEaiv /caret tov
vbfiov. 5.
" Apxovrog 'Avriyoivog, pyvbg Jlpoararyplov irEVTEKatBEKdry, Ml-
Xoiv 'liririvov Kal TriXEpaxig EvjioiiXov dvariBkaaiv rd 'ISia BovXiKa
Kopdaia 'AXE^dvBpav Kal Qavudarav hpag rip Sapairct, utiBevI
fiyBkv irpoayKOvaag, irapapEivdaa? Sk MtXwvt /cat TyXEfiaxiBi, E/ca-
rkpoig koig av ^&aiv dvEyKXrjroig, rrjv dvdBEaiv noiovpEvoi Bid tov
avvESpiov Kara tov vbfiov. 6.
"Apxovrog $iXol;kvov, pyvbg 'AXaXKopEVEtov irEVTEKatSEKary,
'AXe^oiv 'FoBiwvog dvarlByai rffv ISiav BovXyv Aiovvaiav hpdv
r& —apdiri, irapapdvaaav kavrol dvEVKXriroig iravra tov tov
Zyv xpbvov, rr)v dvdBEaiv iroiovpEvog Sid tov avvEBplov Kara rbv
vbpov. 1.
"Apxovrog Kadiiaiov, pyvbg BovKariov TpiaKaSi, Kpdroiv 'Api-
viov Kal Ehylra Nt/capErou, <7uvap£trroi/vrti)v ko.1 r&v vl&v, dvari
Bkaaiv to BovXikov ahr&v Kopaaiov Jjaiatxa-" hpbv t& 2Epct7rt,
irapapEivaaav Kpdroivi /cat Ehylra korg av £&aiv aVEVKXr)roig,
rr)v dvdBEaiv iroiovpEvoi Bid tov avvESpiov Kara rbv vbfiov.

630 ADDITIONAL NOTES.
Note III.
Chapter XII. — Page 154.
Orchomenian Inscriptions.
1.
Qvvdpxo) apxovrog, fiE~ivog OeiXovBioi, 'Apx'apoe EvpEiXoi
raplag Ehji&Xv 'ApxESduoi <boiKElt XP'°£ dirkBoim dirb rag aovy-
ypdipai irsSa t&v iroXEpapxoiv Kr) t&v Karoirraoiv, dvkXbpEVOg rag
oovyypdtpoig rag Kipkvag Trap' Evopova Kr) QiBtav Krj HaaiKXEiv
Kr) TtubfiEiXov QoiKE~iag Kr) AaporkXEiv AvaiBdjioi Kr) Aioivvaiov
KaipiaoB&poi XypoiVE~ia Karrb \pd<j>iapa r& Sdpoi. — Apaxpdg
16163. Qvvdpxoi apxovrog, pE~ivog 'AXaXKopEvioi, Fdpvoiv IIoXu-
<cXe7oc rapiag dirkSoiKE Ehji&Xv ' ApxiSdfioi Qoike'h diro Tag aovy-
ypdipoi to KardXvirov Karrb \pdipiapa r& Bafioi, dvEXbfiEvog rag
aovyypdipoig rag Kipkvag irdp —wipiXov Krf Evopova <!>o>K£~iag Kr) irdp
Aioivvaiov KatpiaoS&pai %rjpoivEia Krj AvalSapov AafiorkXiog 7r£oa
r&v TrdXEfidpxoiv Kr) r&v Karoirraoiv. — Apaxpdg 6823, opoXoi' 1<j.
"Apxovrog kv 'EpxopEvv Qvvdpxoi, pE~ivog 'AXaXKopEvioi, kv
Sk pEXarlr] MEi'OtVao 'ApxEXdoi, pstvog irpdroi, b/j.oXoy(a Ehji&Xv
FEXartJjv Kr) ry irbXi 'EpxopEvloiv' 'Etticiei KEKopiarr] EvjioiXog irdp
rag irbXiog to SaVEiov ixirav Karrdg b/xoXoyiag rag rE0£ttrae Ov-
vdpxoi apxovrog, fiE'ivog OeiXovBioi, Krj ovr' otpEiXEry avrv krt ovBev
irdp rav irbXiv, aXX' arrkxi iravra irEpl irdvrog, Kr) diroBESbavBi rrj
irbXi tv 'kxovTEg Tag bfioXoyiag, e'iuev iroriBESopkvov xpbvov Eb-
ji&Xv knivofi'iag Fkna irkrrapa jiovEaai aovv 'iirirvg BiaKarirjg
Fi'/can, irpojidrvg aovv rjyvg xcl^Tig. 6-pX1 T^> XP°vb) ° kviavrbg
b fiErd Qvvapxov apxovra 'EpxopEvlvg. diroypaipkaBy Sk EvfioiXov
/car' kviavrov EKaarov irdp tov rapiav Krj tov vop&vav rd te
Kav/Aara r&v irpojidToiv Kr) rav tfywv Kr) rav jiovoiv Krj rav 'iiriroiv,
Kr) /ca' rtva aaafia "iwvBi, Kr) rb irXE~iBog. /j£t airoypaijikaBoi Sk
rrXlova t&v yEypappEvoiv kv ry aovyxoipEiai. rj Sk Ka ng irpdrry
rb kvvbpiov EvfioiXov, btjrEiXkroi a iroXig r&v 'EpxopEvioiv apyov-
pioi fivcig irETrapaKovra Ehji&Xv Ka8' EKaarov kviavrov, Krj tokov
iptpkroi Bpdxfiag Bovoi rag pvdg EKaarag Kara fiE'iva EKaarov, Kr)
EfiirpaKrog karoi Ehji&Xv a iroXie t&v 'EpxopEvioiv - - - -

ADDITIONAL NOTES. 631

Boioirol rbv rpiiroSa dvkBEiKav rijg XaplrEaai Karrdp pavrEiiav
t& 'AttoXXo/voc, dpxovrog ^apiao Ta^Eividrao QEifUjoi, dipEBpiaTEV-
bvriiiv MsXavviog Ni/co/cXeToc; 'EpxopEvloi, 'Haxpiwog QEpaavSplxoi
KopoivElog, 'Apfo/cXstoc 'Avrtoxtciao 'AvBaBovioi, ' Apiaroivog Mev-
yt'ciao GeottieToc, IIpa£tr£Xioc ' ApiaroKXiBao 0£t/3r;a), Oiopvdaroi
'Eppaix<^ Tavaypifio, HovBoivog KaXXiyirovog 'Opoiirioi, ypapfia-
TEvovrog AiokXe'ioq Aioipdvroi nXaraEtof, pavrEvopkvoi Aiviao 'Epoi-
rioivog QEorriE'iog, Bioirpoirtovrog .... EhpEiXlSao 'EpxopEvloi,
iapaTEVovTog Aapirpiao  broi 'EpxopEvloi.

Miptxoc IIoXuKparioc, 'lap&vvpog Aioyirovog, avBpEaai x°Pa~
yuaavTEg viKaaavTEg Aioivvaui dvkBEiKav, Tipoivog dpxovrog,
avXiovrog KXEiviao, q.Bovrog ' AXKiaBkviog. 4.
'AXEuac; Nt/cwvoj, K.a^>io,6c5fazpoc 'AyXao^at'Sao, avBpEaai x°Pa-
yiovTEg viKaaavTEg Aioivvaip avEBkrav, 'ABavlao apxovrog, avXiov
rog KAEivt'ao, QBovTog Kpdroivog. 5.
Gtoe novxav ctyaOcti/. 'AXfuao apxovrog eco2;e tv Bduv 'Epxo-
fiEvioiv, 'AykSiKov Aaijitrao 'HoXEta air ' AXEfavSpEiag irpblf.vov
EifiEV Kr) EVEpykrav rag irbXiog 'EpxopEvioiv Kr) avrov ki) kgybvoig,
Krj EipEV ahrv yag Kr) FvKiag 'kiraaiv, Kr) aaijraXiav Kr) arEXiav Kr)
daovXlav Kr) Kara ydv Kr) Kara BdXarrav Kr) iroXkpoi Kr) ipdvag
l&aag, Kr) rd aXXa oTroYra rvg dXXvg irpolfivvg Kr) EVEpykryg.
6.
Mvaaivoi dpxovrog, dyoivoBETiovTog r&v XapirEialoiv Ehdpiog
t& Tlavroivog, tvSe kv'iKoiaav ret XaptT-Et'o-ta- o-aX7rty/crac <&tX7voc
4tXtVa) 'AoWeioc;, Kapovl, Elp&Sag —oiKpdnog QEifi&og, iroEirag
Mr)aroip Mrjaropog QoiKaiEvg, pa\pdFvBog Kpdroiv KXioivog QEifiEiog,
ahXEirag tl£piyEV£i£ 'Hpa/cXic>ao Koi/£ ttoii'oc, avXaFi/Sog Aapr)vETog
TXaiiKoi 'Apytoc, KiBapiarag 'AykXoxog ' AaKXairioykviog AloXEvg
airb MouptVae, KtQapaFvSoc; Aaudrpiog 'ApaX&toi AtoXcvs ct7ro
Movpivag, rpaydFvSog ' AaKXairibBoipog HovBkao TapavT~ivog, /ctu-
paFvSog Nt/cdorparos ^iXoarparoi QstfiElog, ra £7Ttvi'icia /cwt-idFt/cioc;
Eiapxos ElpoSoTio KopiovEvg. 15

632

ADDITIONAL NOTES.

I .
Oice evikoiv rbv ay&va t&v H.apiTyaliov' aaXTnarifg Xhjvig
'AiroXXoiviov 'AvnoxEvg d—b ^laidvcoov, KripvZ Z&iXog ZoitXov
Udipiog, pa\Loicbg ~Sovfir)vu>g 'Rovfirfviov 'ABrfvalog, irorjrr)g k-&v
'A/iniag ArjfiOKXkovg Orfjialog, ahXyrijg 'AiroXXbBorog 'AiroX-
Xocorov Kpi)g, abXucbg 'Pbcimrog 'Fociirirov 'AoyEtoc, KiBa-
piarijg $avt'ac 'A—oXAocStipoi/ roii i&aviov AioXevc dirb Kvfirfc,
KtBaparBbg Arffirirptog TiaopEviaKov KaXxySbviog, -payoiBbg I— -
7ro/cparij£ ' Apiarofikvovg 'PbSioe, KorfiarSbg KaXAiarparog 'Eia-
Kkarov Qrffialog, Troyrifg 2arvpoiv 'Afiiviag AripoKXkovg 0i)/3atoc,
virOKpiTijg AoipbBEog AoipoBkov Tapavrlvog, iroiyrffg roayoiBi&v
SoipoKXijg XoipoKXkovg 'ABrfvalog, v—OKpin)g Kajiipixog QeoS&oov
Qyjialoc, iroirfrijc KoifiutBi&v 'AXk^avBpog 'Apiarioivog 'AByvaloc,
viroKpiTrjg" ArraXog 'ArrdXov 'Adyvalioe. Oic'e evikoiv tov vEfir/rbv
ay&va r&v OfioXtoioiv' iraicac ahXyrdg AuiKXijg KaXXifir'fXov 077-
palog, —alcac IfyEfibvag S-pa-T/'oc Evvikov Q-qjia'iog, avSoac ahXrf-
rdg AioKXrjg KaXXifir'jXov Orfpalog, di cpag rjyEfibvag 'Poet— — oc
' PoSirrwov 'AoyEtoc, -paytpSbg 'iTrrro/cpct-T/c 'Apiarofikvovg 'Pcictoc,
Koifiipcbc KaXXiarparog 'E^aKEarov OrfjiaJog, rd kiriviKia KiopoiBi&v
iroiyrijg 'AXk^avSpog 'Apiarloivog 'AByvalog.
Note IV.
Chapter XV. — Page 296.
Inscription at Kardhitza (Acraephium).

roiv cawavyparoiv. .
Xivoiv Ka . . ov

 7-77 Eop-y 
Xei Kal roig —-Epaarolg ayoiv 
/cr; . . 7rao-t>' fibvog Kal irp&rog airo 
poiv . . 77V TEifirjv ravrrfv ypianaE 
air EKBkfiaTog kv r& yvptvaaiip fir/c 
Ei'Ot . . . roiv . . . ohSk t&v irapEiriBrfjiovvToiv . .
aiv kXEvBkpoig Kal roig t&v itoXeit&v BovXoig 
7760c; . . . oiv . . rijv dpx'jv rrjv pEyiaryv oh BieXittev ....
\\zvxinv . . . —Epaarolg . . . oivyg
yutct hpkpQ} rifv iroXiv, e—iteX&v tov XEybpEvov ira .
kv t& yvfivaaiu) t&v v—EpfiaXXbvTwv Bairavypdroiv, Kal a
et . ¦ . eioito oh fibtov Trap' r'ffiiv a'XXa /cat kv ralg irEplg

ADDITIONAL NOTES. 633
irbXEaiv BavpdrEaBai. tov te fiEyiarov Kal a&Covrog rffi&v rr)v
X&puv x^>PaT0Q irapaXEXEippkvyg rijg KOvidaEoig, oXov EinaKEv-
aaBrjvui teat KovaioBijvni pbvog irpoEvorfOEV, irpoapEivag /cat
KarwpBoiaaro, virkp kfaKiaxiXta Byvdpia ovarfg rijg EiriaKEVijg ig
S&Beko araSlovg. rjB>] Sk rb pEyaXbijrpov Trjg yvoiprjg EKTEivag
Kal Ig to Boioir&v kBvog, TrpEajiiag alrovpkvyg irpog rov vkov
—EJiaarbv kv roi t&v 'Axai&v /cat navEXXj'/j/a/v owECiptw kv
"Apyst, 7roXXt5i' te avvEXrjXvBbroiv Evaxypbvoiv Kal irp&roiv e/c
t&v ttoXeoiv /cat irdvroiv dpvovpkvoiv Kal kiriKaXovpkvoiv iravra,
kv kXdaaovi BkfiEvog ra Eaurou, irpoBvporara kireSk!;aro rrjv
irpEajiiav virkp rov Boioit&v kBvovg, irpoaBEig rip EvyEVEl rijg
yv&pyg Kal to fiEyaXbipvxov Kal aS&piav irpkajitvaiv. Bavfidawg
ohv kiri rovroig Kal diroBoxvg d^ioiBlg kv roig HavkXXyaiv TEipdg
kXafisv, fiaprvpov/iEvog Kal Sid rijg TrEfKpBiorjg kiriaroXrjg vir ahr&v
irpbg rrjv irbXiv rffi&v. TEXkaag Sk rffv irpEofiEiav UErd T&v dXXoiv
kBv&v Kal rb diroKpifia evevk&v irapd 
TEipdg EXafjev fiErd r&v ovvtrpEajiEVT&v, to te koivov
B\afijioio>T&v avvkBpwv hirofiipvrjaKbfiEVov rifv avrEirdvyEXrov XaP"/
Kal ivvoiav, TEifidg k\prf<piaavro ahr& rag rrpEirovaag, /cat dTrE'oTEtXaf
""poe rrjv irbXiv rffi&v. kirira Bk i;al al  ttoXeic Kal K&fiai
Evxdpiarov irpa . . . . ai Kal ahral .... fiaaiv . . . /cat iroXirEia
Kal eikovoiv avaordoEi TEipfjaai avrov. virEpEJidXXEro Bk rrj fiE-
ya\o\pvxta /cat dpErp 7rd»rac roiig  kavrbv
irpog to ipiXbBoi;ov Kal ipiXdyaBov ra'ig kiraXXr)Xoig Sairdvaig, clc
^tXoVarptc; (cat EvEpykryg vopi'ibjiEvog. kyXEXoiirbrog yap i'fSy
rpiaKovra Err) tov t&v Htoiioiv ay&vog, KaraaraBlg ayoivoBkryg
irpoBvporara kirESk^aro, (jiiXoBol,riaag rb dvavE&aaaBai rrjv cip-
XO-iorrfra tov ay&vog t&v /lEydXoiv YLroiioiv (cat Kaiaapr'foiv,
Kriaryg avoiBsv yEvbfiEVog, dvaXaji&v te rrjv apxrjv EvBkoig
E7rtr£XEi rag Bvaiag Kal ra rov Beov pavTEla, kan&v dpxovrag
(cat avvkBpovg Kar 'krog irEvraKig fiEyaXopEpkai Siirvoig, Kal rr)v
iroXiv apiari^oiv kiri irEvraEriav, pySEptav virkpBEaiv iroiyadpEvog
ev ro'ig xpbvoig pifTE Bvaiag firfTE Bairdvyg fiySkirorE. kirtaravrog
E tov ayoivog rip ektui eviuvtoi to eiti iroXEoig SiaSoua ig rrjv fikX-
Xovaav Eoprrjv eSoikev, iraai role irdXEiraig Kal irapoiKoig (cat EKry-
pkvoig SiSovg Kar dvBpa EKaarov koijiivov oe'itov Kal o'Lvov rffiivav
rag Sk irarpiovg irofiirdg pEydXag Kal rr)v t&v avpr&v irdrpiov 6'p-
XVviv BEoaEJi&g etteteXeoev, ravpoBvrr'iaag te ro'tg QEo'ig (cat SE/Sacr-
Tdlg KpEaSoaiag Kal apiara Kal yXvKiapovg Kal B'nrva oh BikXiirEv
iroi&v, Kal Kara rdiiig dub EiKacog jikxpi rpiaKaSog irpbg kviraai roig

634 ADDITIONAL NOTES.
dpiaroig iraiSag rovg t&v ttoXeit&v Kal SovXovg kvyXiKOvg, rag te
yvva'iKag r&v ttoXeit&v rj yvvr) avrov Nwrt . a rfplanaEV Kal irap-
Bkvovg Kal BovXag. oh irapkXiirEV Sk ohSk rovg OKyvirag Kal avvKoa-
povvTagrrrv Eoprijv, yfpianoEV Be ahrovg aw' EKBkpaTOg Kar ISiav, b
firfBElg aXXog T&v irporkpoiv kiroirfaEV, prfSkva rijg kavrov (piXav-
Bpoiiriag fiovXopEvog apoipov yEvkaBai, kv te ra'ig yEivopkvaig Beoi-
plaig tov BvueXikov iravrag rovg BEOipkvovg /cat roue avvEXBbvrag
dirb r&v itoXeoiv kyXvKiaEv kv r& BEarpio, irkfipard te kiroiyaEv
fisydXa Kal iroXvrEXrj, a/e BiaKovara /cat kv ra'ig irEplg ttoXeoiv rd
Sairavrffiara avrov yEvkaBai, 'kv te ry avvrkXEta tov dy&vog pErd
to irdvSypov Siirvov rr)v dpxvv &voiBev irdXiv iroiovjiEVog rrjg Bair-
dvrfg Kara rpiKXEivov StaSbfiara eBoikev kvBEKa Byvaploiv, Kal K£pa-
pa'iov o'lvov iraXawv Kal Srjvdpia ci; ig kirbipypa to Xoiirbv rijg Ba-
iravvg- pErd Bk rr)v irdvroiv tovtoiv avvrkXEiav Karajiaivovrog
avrov dirb rov hpov kiri rrjv irbXiv iravBripEi dirrfvryaav ol rroXzirai,
iraaav ipiXorEipiav Kal Evxapiarlav SEiKvvpEvoi. b Sk fir) E/cXa&d-
pEVog rijg kavrov fiEyaXoippoavvyg TavpoSvrrjaag Ait r& jiEyiarip
kwl rijg irbXEOig irapaxpvfia EiariaaEv rovg avvEXBbvrag kiri rr)v
Evxapiariav. SBev kiri roig roiovroig rovg dyaBovg r&v dvBp&v Kal
rovg pEyaXotlivxovg /cat ijiiXoirdrpiBag ra'ig irpoarfKOvaaig TEifidig te
Kal BoipEaig irpoarJKov kanv Koapovfikvovg paprvplaBai. Si a Sri
iravra kSofev roig te apxovai /cat cruVEcipoie /cat r& Sr'ifiu), kirai-
vkaai pkv rbv irpoEipypkvov avSpa 'EirapEiv&vSav kif y irpbg rr)v
irarpiSa kax^KEV e/ctet'ei Evvoiq /cat Trpde ro Boioir&v kBvog fiEya-
Xo\pvxiq, avvKoap&v Kal Trjv irarpiSa ry irpEojiEiq, arEipav&aai Bk
avrov Kal xpva& arEijidvoi /cat ei/covi teXeiq ypairry dyaBfj, rovg te
fiErd ravra KaraoTaByaopkvovg dyaivoBkrag kv rote ETnrEXECfJTj/ro-
ukvoig vir' ahr&v dy&aiv koXeIv avrov te 7TpO£cSpia>', KaBdirEp /cat
roue dXXovg EVEpykrag, tVa e/c t&v ovroig avvrEXovpkvoiv r) iroXig
rfp&v Evxdpiarog ipalvrfrai irpbg rovg EVEpykrag, ttoXXoi te ^rtXoirai
yEivoivrai t&v dyaB&v T&v Eig rrjv 7rdXtv paprvpovpkvoiv t&v irpoi-
toiv. arijaai Bk Kal dvSpidvrag avrov i) dyaXpara, kva pEV ev np
hpip 'AirbXXoivog tov Tlroi'iov, rbv S' ETEpov kiri rijg iro\EO>g ev ry
dyopq., /cat EiKovag bpoloig kirixpvaovg, rrjv kiriypaiprjv iroiovpEvoiv
rr)vBE' 'O Brji-iog /cat r) jiovXr) 'EirauEiv&vSav 'EirafiEivoivSov aptara
iroXEiTEvadpEvov krEipyasv. dvaBEivai Bk Kal kv dvaypaiprj to \jiri-
ihiapa kiri rov hpov tov 'AirbXXoivog tov Blroitov (cat kiri iroXsoig ev
ry dyopq..

ADDITIONAL NOTES. 635
Note V.
Chapter XX.— Page 558.
Inscriptions on a Wall at Kastri (Delphi).
1.
"Apxoyoc Huppou, pyvbg 'Yiparriov, (iovXEvovroiv rav irp&rav
kldpyvov MikkvXov, KXkoivog, ypafiparEvovrog Sk Tag jiovXag 0eo-
riuov, aTrkSoro Updrov HXiardpxov, avvEvBoKEOvroiv /cat t&v vl&v
avrdg AiaKiSa Kal XatpsipdvEog, r& 'AiroXKoivi t& JJvBioi a&fta
yvvaiKE'iov, cl bvopa ' AiroXXoivia, rifiag dpyvpiov pvdv ttevte' Kal
rav rifidv e'xotti Trdcrai'- KaB&g EiriarEvaE 'AiroXXoivia rav &vdv
ra 6e&, kip' ute kXsvBkpa klfiEV (cat dvkipairrog dirb irdvroiv rbv
iravra xpbvov, iroiovaa a Ka BkXy (cai dirorpkxovaa oig Ka BkXy.
jiEJiaioirifo Kara rbv vbfiov KXkoiv Aiovvaiov. e'i Be rte dirroiro
'AiroXXoiviag kiri KaraSovXiapw, fikjiaiov irapExbvroi rav &vdv r&
Be& a te diroBopkva teat 6 jiejiaioiTrip' e'i Bk pr) irapkxoiaav, EKripoi
kovToi pvdv rpiaKOvra —eXevkid _*eXevkov, dv SeXeu/coc 6VX71. bfioioig
Bk Kal b iraparvx&v Kvpiog karoi avXkoiv 'AiroXXoiviav &g EXsvBkpav
kovaav, d^dpiog koiv teat dvvirbSiKog irdaag ct'/cae /cat i^apiag. fidp-
rvpoi ol ifpEte rov 'AwbXXoivog 'Apx< »»i "ABapftog, /cai ISi&rai Ai-
Karag, KaXXtae, 'ExkijivXog. 2.
"Apxovroe Nt/cocJctttot/, pyvbg 'AtteXXtjiov, fiovXEvbvToiv rav irp&-
rav k^dprfvov UoXvoivog, Adpoivog, ypapparEvovrog Sk rag fiovXag
KXE&vBa, kiri to'ioSe dirkBoTO Skvmv'ApiarofiovXov, avvEvBoKEOvayg
Kal KXeoOc teat Alvyaiov rov irarpog, no 'AirbXXoivi r& Wv-iiip a&pa
yvvaiKiiov o'iKoyEvkg, q. bvofia _-&Trfpig, npdg dpyvpiov fivav teo-
adpoiv' Kal rav npdv e'x^' rraaav' KaB&g kiriarEvaE r& Be& rav
&vdv, kd> Site kXEvBkpav ei/iev —\&Trjpiv Kal dvkipairrov diro irdvroiv
rbv iravra fiiov, irowvaav 0 Ka BkXy, Kal dirorpkxovaav ote Ka BkXy.
jiEJiaioirrfp Kara rbv vbpov rag irbXiog Hdrpoiv ' ApiorojiovXov. e'i Be
-rig tydirroiro ^oirifpiog kiri KaraBovXiapip, jiEJiaiav irapExbvroi rip
Be& rav &vdv 0 te diroBbpEvog Skvoiv (cat 6 fiEpatoirtjp Tldrpoiv.
bfioioig Sk /cat ot TraparuvxeivovrEe icuptoi ibvroi avXkovrEg Zwrrfpiv
tie kXEvBkpav kovaav, d^dpioi kbvrEg Kal avvirbSiKoi irdaag BUag
Kal '(apiag. fidprvpoi ol hpE'ig tov 'AirbXXoivog Udrpoiv, Ilvppiog,
rat r&v IBi&toiv UoXvavSpog Nt'/ctoe, KXkoiv, 'ApiarbfiovXog,
Aapbarparog, EhBvSapog.

636 ADDITIONAL NOTES.
3.
"Apxovrog Srpardyov, firjvbg Ifo/ctov, &g 'ApipiaaEig ayovn, kv
AfX^iote Sk dpxovrog LTuppt'a, pyvbg 'Hpa/cXft'ou, dirkSoro AiKaia,
avvEvBoKEOvroiv Kal t&v vl&v avrdg AoipoBkov teat 'Apiaropdxov,
t& 'AirbXXoivi t& TlvBitp a&fia yvvaiKElov, a bvopa 'Apx&, to yivog
o'iKoyEVEg, rifidg dpyvpiov pvdv rpi&v irEvrrfKovra Bpaxpiiiv, KaB&g
EiriarEvaE 'Apx& r& §e& rav &vdv, kip' oSte kXEvBkpav eI/iev /cat
dvktpairTOv dirb irdvroiv rbv iravra xpbvov. (iEfiaioirffp Kara tov
vbpov Kal Kara to avpjioXov 'Afiiviag TaXEKXkog 'ApipiaaEvg. fidp-
rvpoi Nau^Etvoe, KaXXtorparoe, AE^l^Eog, Aapbi,Evog ' ApipiaaElg,
/cat  ApoiiriSag 
4.
" Apxovrog 'Afipopdxov, pyvbg 'Hpa/cXftou, JIovXevovtoiv rav Bev-
rkpav k^dpyvov KaXXt'a rov Aioivog, NiKoarpdrov rov EhB&pov,
ypapparEvovrog Sk rag jiovXag EhdvBpov, dirkSoro Sevoiv Arffirj-
rpiov, avvEvSoKEOvrog /cat rou vlov KXkoivog r& ' AiroXXoivi t& HvBior
a&fia yvvaiKEiov, i/. bvofia IltoTa, rd ykvog kvSoyEvij, rifidg dpyv
piov pvdv ttevte' Kal rdv npdv kxovri irdaav' KaB&g hriaTEvaE
TLiara rav &vdv t& Be&, kip' &te iXEvBkpa EipEV Kal avkipairrog dirb
irdvToiv rbv iravra jiiov, iroiovaa b (ca BkXy Kal dirorpixovaa olg
tea 6eXt7. jiEJiaioiryp /card rdv vbfiov rag irbXiog Ild-puv 'Apiaro-
jiovXov. e'i Sk rig kipdirroiro Hiarag kiri KaraBovXiapw , (iijiaiov
irapExbvTOi rip Be& rdv tivdv 6 te airoBbfiEvog Skvoiv /cat d (iEJiaioi-
TTfO Hdrpoiv' £t Bk pr) irapkxoiaav fikfiaiov, irpaKrifiioi kbvroi Kara
rbv vbfiov. bpoioig Sk zeaiot iraparvyxdvovrEg Kvpioi kbvroi ovXkovrEg
Hiarav &g kXEvBkpav kovaav, a^dpioi kbvrEg Kal avvirbSiKoi irdaag
SlKag Kal Zaplag. pdprvpoi ol hpElg tov 'A7rdXX<itvoe 
t'cSi&irai Sk . . . . 5.
" Apxovrog KaXXiKpdrEOg, prjvbg Bvaiov, jiovXEvbvroiv rav Sevte-
pav k^dprfvov . • . tov . . KpdrEog, 'Afivvra tov Euciatpou, ypatt-
fiarEvovTog Bk rag jiovXag KaXXiykvEog rou Aa/^otepdr£0£, airkSoTO
2a/T-ae Xapt^EVOu t& 'AirbXXoivi r& TivBior a&pa dvBpElov, & bvofia
—-drvpog, to ykvog o'ikoBev, npdg dpyvpiov pvdv TEaadpoiv, Kal rdv
Tipdv £X£l irdaav 2&/ra£' KaB&g EiriarEvaE Sarupoe t& Be& rav
&vdv, kip' &te kXEV&Epog EipEV (cat uviipairrog diro irdvroiv rbv iravra
jiiov, irot&v b Ka BkXy. jiEJiaioirifp Kara tov vbpov KaXAiykvyg
AapoKpdrEog. e'i Sk rig dirroiro —arvpov kiri KaraSovXiapol, jikjlawv

ADDITIONAL NOTES. 637
irapEXETOi r& 8e& rd)- &vdv e'i Sk p>) 7rapEXot (ikjiaiov, irpaKrifiiog
karoi KaXXiykvtfg -arvptp /card rdv vbfiov. bfioioig Sk Kal ol irapa-
rvyxdvovTsg Kvpioi kbvroi avXkovrEg tov _drvpov &g kXEvBcpov
kbvra, dZduioi kbvrEg Kal avvirbSiKoi irdaag SiKag Kal fu/utctc- /tct'p-
rvpoi ol hpE'ig rov 'AirbXXoivog "ABa/ijiog, ' Afipbfiaxog, IBioirav
KXEoSapogKaXXtykvEog, SsvoKpdryg -TtfaifikvEOg, AapoKpdrrfg ....
The four following are on a large block of marble in the vil
lage of Kastri. 6.
. . . Nttcocactou dpxovroe, hpofivrfjiovovvrotv A'troiX&v ....
 TkXoivog, AiKatdpxov, —Tpa-
rdyov, KpoijivXov 
. . . AsXip&v, 'ApiaroKpdrovc, "AvBpoivog, Bouor&v, <I>X£tv 
 as virrjpEr&v roig tEpopvr'ipoai
kv nuXata /cat ev AEXipo'tg 
. . . vog xpbvov iroXvv t& koivoi avvESpiip r&v 'AjKpiKrvbvoiv, dvEv-
KXijToig  ecSocJe rote hpofiviffioai /cat rote
a'yoparpoTe Ilufltote £TraiV£<rai 
Aapi.fi o'iKovvTa kv 'Hpa/cXs/a /cat arEipav&aai Bdfvrjg arE<pdvu> irapd
tov Beov, Kal etvat avr& irpoSiKtav, daipdXEiav, davXiav, irpoESpiav,
arkXstav irdvroiv, rbv ck ypafiptarka dvaypdipai rd BESoyfikva
roig hpouvr'ipoai Kai roig dyoparpo'ig kv t& vkip rov 'AirbXXoivog.
7.
AeX^/oi Eciwteav 'ApiardvSpoi ' ApiaroKXkovg 'lartatEi, abrip Kal
EKybvoig, irpofcviav, irpofiavTEtav, irpoESpiav, irpoBiKtav, davXiav,
drkXEiav irdvroiv Kal r d'XXa d'tra ro'tg aXAoig 7rpo^kvotg Kal ev-
Epykraig' dpxovrog 'AvBporifiov, (iovXEvbvroiv KXEvpdvnog 'EvSikov,
'Apiarloivog Nt/codd/iou. 8.
'Eirl TLpaorov dpxovrog, hpopvypovovvroiv AtrwX&v Aa/iortfiov
'AvBpka, Afutcta Aiwvoe  Mvrto-t'a QevSotov,
KXeokvSov Xiov, AeXA&v  Bov EvBvSirov, Botwr&v
'HpoSafiov  tfcWje ro'tg hpofivrffioai SiuteXei xP£taC TrapEXO-
fiEvog ro'ig 7-E hpopvrfpoai tcai ro'tg 'ApiptKrvoat Kal ro'tg aXXoig
EtSoiJE roTe hpopvripoaiv kiratvkaai te KaXXttivi
Bdipvyg arEipdvoi 7rupd rov Qeov

638 ADDITIONAL NOTES.
/cai tlvat ahroj Kal EKybvoig irpoSiKiav, da<pdXEiav, davXiav, drkXEiav
(/cat irpoESpiav kfi iraai ro'tg dy&)atv olg nBkaaiv ol ' ApiptKrvovEg.
9.
'Eirl Ilpaorou dpxovroe hpopvypovovvroiv AlroiX&v Aa . . . ptkoig
.... vog, . . . oroivtog 'AXE^dvBpov, . ptxt  'AXtiiJatvoe,
. . . xou ^tXop . . vov, Ayp&vaKrog XtoO, AkXip&v 'Apa . . tv
.... <5>o>keoiv, KaXXiKpdrovg , kBolf. ro'tg hpopvifpoai 'EirEiBff
KaXXiKXrjg (KaXXtKXkovg'AByva'tog kv r&) koivoi avvEBpior r&v'Ap-
ipiKTvbvoiv StarkXEi xPeLaS irapExbfiEvog ro'ig hpopvrffioai Kal roig
'A/MptKrvoai Kal IlavcXXTjo-tv dyoiv dvEVKXrfroig, eBo^e roig
hpofivrffiooiv kiraivkaat te KaXXt/cXsa KaXXiKXkovg 'AByva'iov
o'tKovvra kv AlroiXiif Kal aTEipav&aai Bdipvrfg arEipavio irapd rov
Oeov /cat Etvat avrip teal Eteydvotg irpoSiKiav daipdXEiav davXiav
drkXEiav Kal irpoESpiav kp irdai roig dy&atv olg nBkaaiv ol 'Ap-
IplKTVOVEg. 10. At Delphi.
AeX^oI kSoiKav ifctXiirirtp 'AiroXXoiviov KaXvptviur ahr& Kal EKyb
voig irpolfiviav, irpofiavTEtav, TrpoEcpt'av, irpoSiKiav, davXiav, drk
XEiav irdvroiv Kal rd dXXa 07rd<ra /cat ro^e aXXote irpoi,kvoig /cat
Ei/EpyErate. dpxovrog AafioKpdrEog, jiovXEvbvroiv ' Ayioivog, 'Apia-
rofidxov, EvBwpov, 'AXc^a'pxou. 11. At Delphi.
Aovkwv Mdptov NcVwra AiytaXftvdv, TETEiprfpkvov dirb rrjg
KoptvBioiv jiovXrjg TEipta'ig jiovXEvrtKalg Kal dyopavoptKa'ig, Aov-
Kiog Ma'ptoe Nettwc irarrfp, KopivBiog, (cai 'lovXla A'tyiaXr), AeXcJt),
rdv Eavr&v vlbv 'AirbXXoivi XIvBiio.
12. At Delphi, at the end of a fragment much defaced, but
throughout of the same tenor, except that in the place of rae
o'tKlag is often seen tov x°>P'ov.
TaoKpdrrfg rag KaXXtyEvsoe o'tKtag, ararijpag itevte, Bpaxpdv,
bBEXovg rpslg.
SEVoBapog, rag Msvoivog /cai Aiwvdtea ot/ctae, orarijpae Svo, Bpax
pdv, SSeXov, r)fiioBkXiov, xa^Kkovg rkropag.
'Exivalog rae Ataivd/ca o'tKlag, ararijpag BkKa 'kva.
XatpdXae, rag XiEiala tov ^XslaKog ot/c»';ae, ararifpag rpEtg,
Bpaxpdv.

ADDITIONAL NOTES. C43
dedication of Tisagoras, was much admired on account of the
difficulty of executing works of statuary in that metal. Here also
were a lion in brass, presented by the Phocians of Elateia, when,
by the aid of Olympiodorus of Athens, they had defended their
city against Cassandrus king of Macedonia : an Apollo, dedi
cated by the Massaliotae for a victory over the Carthaginians : a
trophy and an armed female representing iEtolia, sent by the
iEtolians when they had avenged upon the Gauls the atrocities
which these had committed upon the people of Callium : a gilded
statue of Gorgias of Leontium, dedicated by himself, and that of
Scyllis, a celebrated diver of Scione, which, together with the
image of his daughter Cyane, had been presented by the Am
phictyones because Scyllis and Cyane had performed good ser
vice to Greece against the fleet of Xerxes by means of their art.
But the statue of Cyane no longer remained, having been carried
away by Nero \ Here was also a brazen head, sent by the
Methymnsei, in imitation of one made of olive-wood which
they had drawn out of the sea in their fishing-nets, and had
been instructed by the Pythia to worship under the name of
Bacchus K.Ec/>aXX7Jv.
1 It would seem by the silence of notice the statue of twelve cubits
Pausanias, that among the statues holding the prow of a galley, dedi-
carried away were a celebrated cated by the Greeks for their naval
groupe mentioned by Plutarch and victories over the Persians, or the
Pliny, which represented Alexander gilded statue of Alexander the First
hunting a lion, and Craterus coming of Macedonia, which stood near it,
to his assistance, the works of Lysip- (Herodot. 1. 8, c. 122.) : all these had
pus and Leocrates, and dedicated by probably been among those taken by
Craterus.— Plutarch, in Alexand.— Nero.
Plin. H. N. 1. 34, c. 8 ; nor does he

END OF VOL. II.

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Fold out

isP»l*J^?sSf

¦ to auUeatr the
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4 Statute Miles
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PL. IT,
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at LivadAia . irv JS Li/ves .
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intr\eJ4-^£uie is © EO AOTOI I Tt fTA PXOE
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MENAYtJI- entpiataaanta-ynta-pp
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• ONYnEPAYToZAYTAAN E0E.IKE . . . THZ
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AnEAAANEYZKATA ... ANEO.. .. APTYPIil
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There are several Lines more>,hte~i'-j'eiv letters anly atfiie
fiee/z/inj/tq tj/'eac/t are pre serf et/ .
X"-33. At fiivarf titer .
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TABA^I AEI Al
To EAHoXPlC*
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JX'^rcL-z Z*nc_"

Fl,. I'M.

tfie Cast/e fit// a/ A/tadAia . r/e,zr-
the Cavern eizl/ed tAattfTropAaniiu. K V V I U U E
ra larpe letters.
C V J* n At- A 'i6 ¦ -It £*"/»' -(in lAe(A/urA.)
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K O B O EPI t>E\l/^o A/|
A'" 37. Jt Skripu. ( in t/ie Aleinasfertj.)
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XTENIAAOOZoYMAXoZAoYK.fi. NoZKAAAIJINAAZMYPIXJl 32 lines fi>ltou>j mMeJis de/kced

Pl./x.

.1 ?38. .-It Te'danda.: ( in the CAunA yard or* St Theadare.)
nOAEMAPXOl MEN IlAOD,
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(AIO N KEITIONO . . . TIAZEIOYIAIoNTOn)
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Y°3&. .-/t Teilanda f ,„ the C/iarrA yard of S? Pcuidele'vncma .)
AOAITYXAI AAMol
POYNTIOI EAilKANf
I JIN AYTiil KAI.KTj
AZYAIAN KAI AYT
KAIKATAOAAAZZA
APXoNTOZEPOAAM NIKO BOYAOIN I KO

J'" -ft). J/ 7/ieAes , on a Sarcophagus , in the Chareh op'StLa/ce .

g^'OANoYCI 'tymbw
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Mol PHCTA YT h N € KTEj
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A I X N H CTO N £X Ud0M
On the opposite side of die same Sarcophetopus
MAPMAPeHAieoCTMI^fePWAeNrACTfcPldpUTA NHAYMONYn NONeXONTAKA .£N - . CITTAPONTA
ONAHAloCXPYCWCTe<|)ANUJ. . IMH.
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J XrtAsrctyl L i&wo ¦

PL X.

1 " 41. AtTAeAes. in the ren/l ', fa house .
TO KO I N O N TA N TT E P I To N
AlONYX. TEXN ITaNTAN
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X"-F2. At T/iehes, an the steps of the F.as/ern Tour,-.
NTJirs/ElLlZO
TT I EPIANZYNTEAOYN
I EYimnoYToMn pozeno
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\"43. AtT/iebcs. a/ the C/uiroA <fS(I>eraeimcS.
uv/A'ojtf the Ha//s
E n 1
ZA KOYNAAHPJXIAI l£PA<j)OPOG
N6IKAIL0A PICTU) NOC ZlL>
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I A N AH NON K AH PoNoMOIC£
AtolCMH rTPoCHKeiNAtHA£AA
AW/iHA£NieANA£TlCBIACAM6NoC AIOIZH HMlANHMoYTAICPAAHOTC
THeiCIAHNAPIA£rTTAKO£l

JV"44-. Jt Thebes
. AAAOIz4>AY
. . TEINOZAOTMA. BoYAHZKAlToY
AHMoYAPlZTAno AEITEYZAME NO N

N°4S.AtJ7reAes.
in, the ChareAofSK^eor^e
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~^N?£TPoTio£ )KoMoAfl-\OXoTio£ V(f>IXo<in.Ploi ppiaAo
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ANTITENEIiNlKlHOt MAN<t>IAirrio£

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X" 17 Jt Thcies.
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in the

\ liard/tifca ,
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£(pl . . . UAiriPA
Betewa fffa/i tst/'/v/i/e . un/A shtntMers
emrred tt'ttA n mexntfe fligfttfj/
drtineatftl o/i ?/if sterna.

A PI IT/IN

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Afjlardtilt'la rn /he CAurrfi ei/ cYCO'tvn/e.
Tn 7 era Fraprneertj .
Fret a. / .
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n. . . TH . . . PJ1N
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- ^ammm^^ nAlO| ,*/'

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h"J2.A/Aard/i//:a -,n Mel'i/hrr/e.
HnoAix
ATAMHZToPA ZftPYPoY HPILA
1 -."t i~3 AtRard/utZa -m tlie Church ofS^(^corr/e

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X"S4. At Aardhi/ia : in the CAurcA of'3T0'eore/e.

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A I A KEIM ENOI . . PO
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n.ToYxnoAEMAPXoYZTolZEniAA<j)l APXONTOZ .... nPoElPH
About 36 lines more, a/most oililentled.
y°5J. A I Menidhi .- in a> Church..
AnoAAoAXLPoZ TTAiAAr\n.r©£

VobAt Menidtiz : on et StaA of 'while Afarile .
ArfoAAn.NloXZEPATTI.aN AnoAAftNioIIEFE

^ENoKAHZn XENoKAHZ

(J.SENoKAHZ
AloNYZioX.
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ZJlZlMlAN^ZATlZTcM

£YiToPoClEPE
A rroAAANioC€YnoPoY (jjlAAPrYPoC API CToBoYAoY

AoY

tf.ffetthertfzfi MMw

jV?S7. AeAtAenS:
On a square Stele, ap the JiisAop's daor.
... NONEYKAEANA.PIKAE.EPITON
On the other Side., nearly complete.
TOIANAEANAPAN EH tTOM JEOTToTA N AYTjl
XoPOlZZ.THi.AI ENTHN ITPoTT AION E Aoll

X°S8. At Athens:
In the Wall of the Melmpali/nji fXr/wA.

AN E0H KE K .EIAHMOiMEIAft.NOznAft.OEYz
E P EX© H HANAfilN EN I K A
ENETEAHZM ENHTOZANATY PAZIO£ EXOPHTEI
APATOZAP THIOXBYAHX
NIKOMAXOl EltolHiEN
JT°J9. At Athens.
. Al A M ENEll4>AOZHPEXlBYPTI. TAIAAEKEY
OEI2.n.MAPNOHNAEAIOHPEAABENPAAINOZPE PEAftKENrATPlAESftlKAIMHTPIAIPftNAYPA Z.PANANKHXft.lXOYANAPPAZ©EIZEPTAETHr . .ONiXN

2f? ffl , At Sykamirur ; inaChurcA/.
A<}> POAIIIOZ

ZJll AOY
JX Pftn IOZ

" *-V 3.*-. C-.-'

ZAPXONTOZOMft.Aftlft.TPIZKHAEKATHEniU'A^IAAE YPPANAPOZAAMOKAEIOXEAEEEAEAOXOHTYAAMYTIPOEE EYEPrETANTAZnOAIOZTANArPEIftNAIOTENHNIEPOKAEIOZ
NKHEZrONftZKHEIMENAYTYZrAXKHFYKlAZEnnA AlANKHAX^AAEIANKHAZOYAIANKHnOAEMftKHIPANAZ
•TANKHKATAOAAATTANKAOATTEPKHTYZAAAYZTlPo EPfETHZ

AMI NOKAEIOIAPXONTOZ
ErTES'A^IAAEOPXIM^
EAESEAEAOX0HTYA1
TAXTlOAIOXTANArPE"! XAAKIAEIAAYTONKHEZI KlAZETtnAXINKHFI ZO
KH KATATAN KH KATAOj
IftZAXKHTAAAA
NYZKH EYEP,

i.Titn P03ENI AAAAAKO,
„PMOrENHS0IO4ftPo, >Jr\ MENAYTYnOj ^AAKIAE, LEYEP>

Pl.XP.

X™62. Jt Oropo.
XPftTAPION TTAPAMONOY

A^63. Jt Oropo.
ZA.2.IN I KILZ
XAAOZENOY

,Y°6'4 At Oropo.
ATAOfi-N AMINIOY

S?(>S.Ina Chapd, ySt>~ In. a Tewerbelween
near Skimatari . i rrirnadha. Sc S/umalari.
AAMn B I OTTO 1
N^^S.AtSkimahliri, inaChuirA .
En IAAI& I

vV? (97. In the same Tauter,
on 6t/r/j/c maj-blS'.
h iptar+ia
.V°69. J t tAe same place.
E TEIPIXA

A??0. In the Wall <?fa Tourer, now a Church, near Tanajprcv.
El KONATH NiEANEOHKE^OPYITAI
P AlZOTPl AKOZKHPYXNIKHZAZKAAON
APftNA AIOX AAAOYITEAOAOyOPOX
rTANOIir07.INElAONArfl.NAI EYOA BOY AE PATPAZAXTYKAAONfcTE^ANO
KA<J>IZlAZEPOE»XE
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ilNKHFIZOTEAtANKHAl^) AAlANKHA^OYAIANKHPOAEMil
ISAZKHKATATANKHKATAOAAATTANKHTAAAArANTA
fcAAAYl rPOZENY,
 _^?
Ar."7/. In the ruined Chapel of I'eiras&eid
on a, iloch of3lau&- Jifa^rUe .

A E * -* fcOA/t A MEMT

Jf"7Z. £yiria leftm ev Church* <>f ' Fanetykiev, near- Flohho,- -
an,a, cu&aalS&ne, the letters laryeA rudely 6ut deeply *"&

j:irMwrt%/tXWv&-

PL.XFI.

Jv?73. ^It£rernokast7X} j at tfi£ Chiirch^S^/KhAra^z-rnias.
TcJTA <j)l AEINONTO N
KPATIZTONTAM 1 E*
IANTAMIAIT P I
BOYNONFTPMTOP A
n PEIBE¥ZANTAK¥
n PO¥A NO¥TTAT E¥
I A NTAA¥KlA5lTT AN
$ ¥¦ A I A Z H TT A T P I ZT 0|
EYEPTETHN
A? '74-. Atle/^a,; in, a, ruined CAurck.
BAC  MOIW
TPEXEItrNWplCENA . . . APOYAENTTOAAEC
. XPHCAMHNANOECin
POAINOICLTE(|>ANOICXPH MENOEKATENETPY<J)HC AOYCEMYPIEETOYTOTTPErTE COnAYTALOIAE TTPOAWNO
XPH ETOCCTAKAirEACONTOY
tope rr PWTE
JV?7S; AtZefl^a,; in, a, rninedt Churchy.

IroPli

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A e6. A^tLrtXci , an et frfcr of J/irniPr,ne , Ire larye letters .
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op OlICAarrAam£os,ina,u,cill, oaAside.
fc TT I A warrior on home- H P I/O
A I O bach uritA the horses A TA
NYCI lefi~^foot upon a,n Q
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A ?Z9. Zn the utall of lAes curve Church,
outside .
EL <D | P P O ^
J'° <?/. 7/z <5&r Church o/'the MetoA\hi
eti 3?A wa/rirs . an d Ciptpus .
e m
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A ° 82. In the x/ard of the Church or'
Se. AHasiets at Aleut Pamuphla .
J. tfe&urciitt Zit/i^ ¦
pl.xvm.

X:'fiO. In /he Church of Ate MetokAt o/'S' Wccc/as ,
on a column a/ coarse u lute Mar/' it
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A"' 101. On a Stone lyiru/ in the Mlltuye efA'aSttr- .
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Al°103. From the Monaster,/ op S? Dernelruw JCravari. .
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Vestihuleofa Mosoue.

AI°JOS. In the same place .

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