YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY DISCOVERIES IN AUSTRALIA WITH AN ACCOUNT OP THB COASTS AND KIVEKS BXPLOKED AND SUKYEYED DURINS THE VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BEAGLE, In the Yeaes 1837-38-39-40-41-42-43. BY COMMAND OF THE LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY. ALSO A NARRATIVE OF CAPTAIN OWEN STANLEY'S VISITS TO THE ISLANDS IN THE ARAFURA SEA. J. LORT STOKES, COMMANDER, R. N. VOL. I. LONDON: T. AND W. BOONE, 29, NEW BOND STREET. 1846. TO CAPTAIN ROBERT FITZ-ROY, R.N. THE FOLLOWING WOKK IS DEDICATED AS A TRIBUTE TO HIS DISTINGUISHED MEBIT, AND AS A TOKEN OF HEAETFELT GEATITUDE AND EESPECT, BY HIS OLD SHIPMATE AND FAITHFUL FEIBND, THE AUTHOR. INTRODUCTION. I CANNOT allow these volumes to go before the public, without expressing my thanks to the following gentlemen for assistance, aflForded to me in the course of the composition of this work : — To Captain Beaufort, R.N., F.R.S., Hydrographer to the Admiralty, for his kindness in furnishing me with some of the accompanying charts ; to Sir John Richardson, F.R.S ; J. E. Gray, Esq., F.R.S. ; E. Doubleday,Esq., F.L.S., and A. White, Esq.,M.E.S., for their|valuable contributions on Natural History, to be found in the Appendix ; to J. Gould, Esq., F.R.S., for a list of birds collected during the voyage of the Beagle ; to Lieutenants Gore and Fitzmaurice, for many of the sketches which illustrate the work ; and to B. Bynoe, Esq., F.R.C.S., for several inter esting papers which will be found dispersed in the following pages. Captain Owen Stanley, R.N., F.R.S., also merits my warmest thanks, for the important addition to the work of his visits to the Islands in the Arafura Sea. I have to explain, that when the name " Austral asia" is used in the following pages, it is intended VI INTRODUCTION. to include Tasmania (Van Diemen's Land), and all the islands in the vicinity of the Australian con tinent. All bearings and courses, unless it is specified to the contrary, are magnetic, according to the varia tion during the period of the Beagle's voyage. The longitudes are generally given from meri dians in Australia, as I much question whether any portion of the continent is accurately deter mined with reference to Greenwich. Sydney, Port Essington, and Swan River, have been the meri dians selected ; and the respective positions of those places, within a minute of the truth, I consider to be as follows : — Swan River (Scott's Jetty, Fremantle) 115° 47' E, Port Essington (Government house) . 132° 13' E. Sydney (Fort Macquarie) .... 151° 16' E, CONTENTS OF VOL. I. CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTION. PAGE Objects of the Voyage — The Beagle commissioned — Her former career — Her first Commander — Instructions from the Admiralty and the Hydrographer — Officers and Crew — Arrival at Plymouth — Embark Lieuts. Grey and Lushington's Exploring Party — Chrono- metric Departure — Farewell glance at Plymouth — Death of King William the Fourth . . . .1 CHAPTER II. PLYMOUTH TO BAHIA. Sail from Plymouth — The Eight Stones— Peak of Tonerife — Approach to Santa Cruz — " La Cueva de Los Guanches" — Trade with Moga dore — Intercourse between Mogadore and Mombas — Reason to regret Mombas having been given np— Sail from Tenerife — Search for rocks near the equator — Arrival at San Salvador — Appearance of Bahia — State of the Country — Slave Trade — And results of Slavery — Extension of the Slave Trade on the eastern coast of Africa — Moral condition of the Negroes— Middy's Grave — Depar ture from Bahia — Mr. " Very Well Dice" . . 31 CHAPTER III. FROM THE CAPE TO SWAN RIVER. A gale— Anchor in Simon's Bay— H.M.S. Thalia — Captain Harris, and his Adventures in Southern Africa — Proceedings of the Laud Party — Leave Simon's Bay — -An overloaded ship — Heavy weather and wet decks — Island of Amsterdam— Its true longitude — St. Paul's — Water — Westerly variation — Rottenest Island — Gao-e's Road — Swan River Settlement — Freemantle — An inland lake Plans for the future — IUness of Captain Wickham — Tidal Pheno mena — Perth — Approach to it — Narrow escape of thefirstsettlers The Darling Range — Abundant Harvest — Singular flight of strange birds — Curious Cliff near Swan River — Bald Head — Mr. Darwin "s Theory — The Natives — Miago— Anecdotes of Natives — Their Superstitions — Barbarous traditions, their uses and their lessons . 43 Vlll CONTENTS. CHAPTER IV. FROM SWAN RIVER TO ROEBUCK BAY. PAGE Sail from Gage's Road— Search for a bank— Currents and soundings— Houtman's Abrolhos — Fruitless search for Ritchie's Reef— Indica tions of a squall — Deep sea soundings — Atmospheric Temperature — Fish— A squall— Anchor off the mouth of Roebuck Bay — A heavy squall— Driven from our anchorage— Cape Villaret — Anchor in Roebuck Bay — Excursion on shore — Visit from the Natives — Mr. Bynoe's account of them — A stranger among them — Captain Grey's account of an '' almost white" race in Australia — Birds, Snakes, and Turtle — Move the Ship — Miago, and the " Black Fellows" — The wicked men of the North — Clouds of Magellan — Face of the Country — Natives — Heat and Sickness — Miago on shore — Mr. Us- borne wounded — Failure in Roebuck Bay — Native notions . . 64 CHAPTER V, FROM ROEBUCK BAY TO SKELETON POINT. Departure from Roebuck Bay — Appearance of the Country — Progress to the northward — Hills and Cliffs — French Names and French Navigators — Tasman, and his account of the Natives — "Hazej- gaeys and Assagais" — His Authenticity as an Historian — Descrip tion of the Natives — Marks and mutilations — Phrenological Deve lopment — Moral condition — Proas, Canoes, and Rafts — Another squall — Anchor in Beagle Bay — Face ofthe Country — Palm Trees- Dew — Hauling the Seine — A meeting with Natives — Eastern Saluta tion — Miago's conduct towards, and opinion of, his countrymen — Mutilation of the Hand — Native " smokes" seen — Move further to the N.E. — Point Emeriau- Cape Levgque — Point Swan — Tide races — Search for water — Encountered by Natives — Return to the Ship— The attempt renewed— Conduct of the Natives — Effect of a Congreve Rocket after dark — A successful haul— More Natives— Miago's Heroism— The plague of Flies— Dampier's description of it — Native Habitations— Under weigh — Wind and weather — Tidal Phenomenon— Natural History — Singular Kangaroo — Bustard — Cinnamon Kangaroo— Quails— Guanas and Lizards— Ant Hills- Fishing over the side — A day in the Bush— A flood of fire— Soil and Productions— White Ibis— Curious Tree— Rain water— Geology of the Cliffs— Weigh, and graze a Rock, or "Touch aud go"— The Twins— Sunday Strait— Roe's Group— Miago and his friends— A black dog— A day of rest— Native raft— Captain King and the Bathurst— A gale— Point Cunningham— Successful search for water— Native estimation of this fluid— Discovery of a Skeleton— Anditsremoval— The grey Ibis- Our parting legacy . . 82 CONTENTS. IX CHAPTER VI. POINT CUNNINGHAM TO FITZ-ROY RIVER. PAGB Survey the Coast to Point Cunningham — Move the Ship — Musquitoes — Southern View of King's Sound — Singular vitreous Formation — Move to the south of Point Cunningham— Captain King's limit- Termination of Cliffy Range — Disaster Bay — An Exploring Party leave in the boats — The shore — A fresh water lake — Valentine Island — Native Fire and Food — A heavy squall— The wild Oat — Indications of a River — Point Torment — Gouty-stem Tree and Fruit — Limits of its growth — Another squall— Water nearly fresh along side — The Fitz-Roy River — Tide Bore and dangerous position ofthe Yawl — Ascent of the Fitz-Roy — Appearance of the adjacent land — Return on foot — Perilous situation aud providential escape — Survey the western jshore — Return to the Ship — Sporting, Quail and Emus — Natives— Ship moved to Point Torment . . .118 CHAPTER VII. THE FITZ-ROY RIVER TO PORT GEORGE THE FOURTH, AND RETURN TO SWAN RIVER. Examination of the Fitz-Roy River — Excursion into the interior — Alarm of the Natives — Ascent of the River — Sufferings from Mus quitoes — Red Sandstone — Natives again surprised — Appearance of thc Country — Impediments in the River — Return of the boats — An Alligator— Stokes' Bay — Narrow escape of an OHicer — Change of Landscape — Pheasant-Cuckoos — A new Vine — Compass Hill- Port Usborne — Explore the eastern shore of King's Sound — Cone Bay — Native Fires — Whirlpool Channel — Group of Islands — Sterile aspect ofthe Coast— Visited by a Native — Bathurst Island — Native Hut and Raft — Return to Port Ushorne— Native Speara — Cascade Bay — Result of Explorations in King's Sound — Interview with Natives— Coral Reefs — Discover Beagle Bank — Arrival at Port George the Fourth — Examination of Collier Bay in the boats — Brecknock Harbour — The Slate Islands— Fresh Water Cove— An Eagle shot— Its singular nest— Rock Kangaroos — A Conflagration —Sandstone Ridges— Doubtful Bay— Mouth of the Glenelg— Re markable Tree — Fertile Country near Brecknock Harbour— Return to the Ship— Meet with Lieut. Grey— His sufferings and discoveries Visit the Encampment— Timor Ponies —Embarkation of Lieut. Grey's Party— Sail from Port George the Fourth— Remarks on position of Tryal Rock— Anecdotes of Miago— Arrival at Swan River— Directions for entering Owen's Anchorage . • 139 X CONTENTS. CHAPTER VIII. SWAN RIVER TO SYDNEY. PAGK Miago's reception by his countrymen — Whale Fishery— Strange ideas entertained by Natives respecting the first Settlers— Neglected state of the Colony— Test security of Owen's Anchorage— Weather— Cele bration of the Anniversary of the Colony— Friendly meeting between different Tribes— Native beggars— Personal vanity of a Native— Visit York— Description of Country— Site of York — Scenery in its neighbourhood — Disappointment experienced — Sail from Swan River— Hospitality of Colonists during our stay^ — Aurora Australis— Gale off Cape Leeuwen— Stormy passage— Ship on a lee shore — South-west Cape of Tasmania— Bruny Island Lighthouse — Arrive at Hobarton — Mount Wellington — Kangaroo Hunt — Whife Kangaroo — Civility from the Governor — Travertine Limestone — Leave Hobarton — Singular Current — Appearance of Land in the neighbourhood of Sydney — Position of Lighthouse — Entrance and first view of Port Jackson — Scenery on passing up the Harbour — Meet the Expedition bound to Port Essington— Apparent increase of Sydney — Cause of Decline — Expedition sails for Port Essington — Illawarra — Botany Bay — La Perouse's Monument — Aborigines — Meet Captain King — Appearance of Land near Sydney . . 226 CHAPTER IX. BASS STRAIT. Leave Sydney — Enter Bass Strait — Island at Eastern entrance — Wil son's Promontory — Cape Shanck — Enter Port Phillip — Tide Race- Commence Surveying Operations — First Settlement — -Escaped Con vict — His residence with the Natives — Sail for King Island — Examine Coast to Cape Otway— King Island — Meet Sealers on New Year Islands — Franklin Road — Solitary Residence of Captain Smith — Soil — Advantageous position for a Penal Settlement — Leafless appearance of Trees — Examine West Coast — Fitzmaurice Bay — Stokes' Point — Seal Bay — Geological Formation — Examine Coast to Sea Elephant Rock — Brig Rock — Cross the Strait to Hunter Island— Strong Tide near Reid's Rocks — Three Hummock Island — Rats— The Black Pyramid— Point Woolnorth— Raised Beach — Coast to Circular Head— Head-quarters of the Agricultural Company Capture of a Native — Mouth of the Tamar River— Return to Port Phillip— West Channel— Yarra-yarra River— Melbourne— Custom of Natives— Manna— Visit Geelong— Station Peak— Aboriginal Names — South Channel— Examine Western Port— Adventure with a, Snake — Black Swans — Cape Patterson— Deep Soundings— Re visit King and Hunter Islands— Fire— Circular Head— Gales of Wind— Reid's Rocks — Sea Elephant Rock— Wild Dogs— Navarin and Harbinger Reefs— Arrive at Port Phillip— Sail for Sydney- Pigeon House— Drought— Mr. Usborne leaves . . . 250 CONTENTS. M CHAPTER X. SYDNEY TO PORT ESSINGTON. PAGE Leave Sydney— Gale and Current — Port Stephen — Tahlec — River Karuah— Stroud— Wild Cattle— Incivility of a Settler— River AUyn — Mr. Boydell— Cultivation of Tobacco — A clearing Lease — William River — Crossing the Karuah at Niglit— Sail from Port Stephen— Breaksea Spit — Discover a Bank — Cape Capricorn — Northumberland Isles — Sandal Wood— Cape Upstart — Discover a River — Raised Beach — Section of Barrier Reef — Natives— Plants and Animals — Magnetical Island — Halifax Bay — Height of Cor dillera — FitzRoy Island — Hope Island — Verifying Captain King's Original Chart— Cape Bedford — New Geological Feature — Lizard Island — Captain Cook — Barrier and Reefs within — Howick Group — Noble Island— Cape Melville— Reef near Cape Flinders— Princess Charlotte's Bay — Section of a detached Reef — Tide at Claremont Isles — Restoration Island — Islands fronting Cape Grenville — Boy- dan Island — Correct Chart — Tides — Cairncross Island- — Escape River — Correct position of Reefs — York Isles — Tides — Torres Strait — Endeavour Strait — Booby Island— Remarks on Barrier and its contiguous Islands and Reefs— Cape Croker and reef off it — Discover error in longitude of Cape — Reefs at the mouth of Port Essington — Arrive at the latter . . . .311 CHAPTER XI. Port Essington — Bearings from shoals .in the Harbour — Appearance of the Settlement — Meet Captain Stanley — Church — Point Record — Prospects of the Settlement — Buffaloes escap — Fence across neck of Peninsula — Lieut. P. B. Stewart explores the Country — Natives — Uses of Sand — TumuU-building Birds — Beautiful Opossum — Wild Bees — Escape from an Alligator — Result of Astro nomical Observations — Geological Formation — Raffles Bay — Leave Port Essington — Popham Bay — Detect error in position of Port Essington — Melville Island— Discover a Reef in Clarence Strait — Cape Hotham — Native Huts and Clothing— Geological Formation — Discover the Adelaide River— Interview with Natives — Attempt to come on board — Messrs. Fitzmaurice and Keys nearly speared — Exploration of the Adelaide — Its capabilities — Wood Ducks — Vam pires — Another party ascends the Adelaide— Meet Natives — Canoes Alligator — Visit Melville Island— Green Ants— Thoughts of taking ship up Adelaide abandoned — Tides in Dundas Strait— Return to Port Essington— Theatricals— H. M. S. Pelorus arrives with Pro visions — Further remarks on the Colony . . . 381 xu CONTENTS. CHAPTER XII. PAGE Leave Port Essington — Reach Timor Laut — Meet Proas- Chief Lomba — Traces of the Crew of the Charles Eaton— Their account of the wreck and sojourn ou the Island — Captain King's account of the Rescue ofthe Survivors — Boy Ireland's relation ofthe sufferings and massacre of the Crew — Appearance of the shores of Timor Laut — Description of the Inhabitants — Dress — Leprosy — Canoes — Village of Oliliet — Curious Houses — Remarkable Ornaments — Visit the Oran Kaya — Burial Islet — Supplies obtained — Gunpowder in request as Barter — Proceed to the Arru Islands — Dobbo Harbour— Trade — Present to Chief — Birds of Paradise — Chinaming Junks' bottoms — Character of Natives — Some of them profess Christianity — Visit the Ki Islands — Village of Ki Illi— How protected — Place of Worship — Pottery — Timber — Boat-building — Cultivation of the eastern Ki — No anchorage off it — Visit Ki Doulan— Antique Appearance of — Luxuriant Vegetation — Employment of Natives — Defences of the place — Carvings on gateway — Civility of Chief — His Dress— Popula tion of the Ki Group — Their Religion — Trade — Place of Interment — Agility of Australian Native — Supplies — Anchorage off Ki Doulan — Island of Vordate — Visit from Chief — Excitement of Natives — Their Arms and Ornaments — Carved Horns on Houses — Alarm of the Oran Kaya— Punishment of the Natives of Laarat by the Dutch — Revisit Oliliet — Discover that Mr. Watson had rescued the European Boy — Return to Port Essington — Mr. Watson's Proceedings at Timor Laut . . . . . 438 APPENDIX. List of Birds, collected by the Officers of H. M. S. Beagle . . 479 Descriptions of Six Fish. By Sir John Richardson. M.D., F.R.S. &c. 484 Descriptions of some New Australian Reptiles. By J. E. Gray, Esq. F.R.S. &c. .... 498 Descriptions of new or unfigured Species of Coleoptera from Australia. By Adam White, Esq. M.E.S. . . . 505 Descriptions of some new or imperfectly characterized Lepidoptera from Australia. By E. Doubleday, Esq. F.L.S. . . 513 LIST OF CHARTS. VOL. I. General Chart op Ahstkalia. Bass Strait. Abapura Sea. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. VOL. I. Natives of Western Australia South branch of the Albert Native habitation .... Singular tail of Kangaroo Rocks on Roe's Group Native raft ..... Kileys of King Sound and Swan River Substantial native hut .... Spears of King Sound and Swan River Monument of La Perouse Circular Head .... Reid's Rocks and the Black Pyramid Section of the N.E. Coast of Australia, and Great Barrier Magnetical Island .... Mount Hinchinbroke Section of a detached Coral Reef Rush shoulder-covering of natives Victoria, from the Anchorage Native Town of Oliliet FISHES. Balistes Phaleratus Cristiceps axillaris Scorpsena Stokesii Smaris porosus Chelmou marginalis Assiculus punctatus SilubosauTUS Stokesii Egernia Cunninghami Hydrus Stokesii Gonionotua plumbeus Plate 1 " 2 « 3 REPTILES. INSECTS. frontispiece. facing page 1 • 101 103 109 11-2 . 117 172 177 249 . 274 298 Reef 333 facing p .338 . 339 353 . 406 . 436 facing p .458 Plate 1 484 " 1 486 " 2 487 " 3 489 " 4 491 « 2 494 Plate I 498 " 2 499 " 3 502 " 4 503 505 , 509 , 519 ERRATA. Vol. I. Page 298, 1. 15, /or" outline" read " outer line." Page 313, 1. 28._for " ajirung'* read "spring." Page 426, 1. 28, /or " a guide irom" read " a guide for." Page 459, for " Oran Kega" read " Oran Kaya." Vol. II. Page 5, 1. 28,/or " cross to" read " cross to the." Page 46, 1. \5,for " shore" read " banks." Page 62, 1. 5,^br " of the way" read " across the way." Page 68, 1. 2,ybr " and had" read " and we had." Page 125, 1. 28,/or " definable" read " definite." Page 204, 1. 25,jfbr " the winds" read " these winds." Page 327, 1. 6,_/br ''lower'' read " lowest." Page 362, note, 1. 5,/or " sixty" read " six." Page 375, 1. 12, for " breakers" read " beaches." Page 404, 1. 7, jbr " north-eastern" read " south-eastern.' Page 422, 1. 28,/o)- " easterly" read " westerly." ¦S'-c7/i^l' /4,^A:<;/^ -.--/-¦mx^ ..^:&.i^c^?^e' London rul-listi-od bj T,&,"W Boon" -c '.(5 ? JOURNAL VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY. CHAPTER L INTRODUCTION. OBJECTS OF THE VOYAGE — THE BEAGLE COMMISSIONED HER FORMER CAREER HERTIRST COMMANDER — INSTRUC TIONS FROM THE ADMIRALTY AND THE HYDROGRAPHER OFFICERS AND CREW — ^^ARRIVAL AT PLYMOUTH — EMBARK LIEUTS. GREY AND LUSHINGTOn's EXPLORING PARTY CHRONOMETRIC DEPARTURE— FAREWELL GLANCE AT PLY MOUTH DEATH OF KING WILLIAM THE FOURTH. For more than half a century, the connection be tween Great Britain and her Australian possessions has been one of growing interest ; and men of the highest eminence have foreseen and foretold the ultimate importance of that vast, continent, o'er which, within the memory of living man, the roving savage held precarious though unquestioned empire. Of the Australian shores, the North-western was the least known, and became, towards the close of the year 1836, a subject of much geographical spe- VOL. I. B 2 H. M. SLOOP 'BEAGLE. culation. Former navigators were almost unani mous in believing that the deep bays known to indent a large portion of this coast, received the waters of extensive rivers, the discovery of which would not only open a route to the interior, but afford facilities for colonizing a part of Australia, so near our East Indian territories, as to render its occupation an object of evident importance. His Majesty's Government therefore determined to send out an expedition to explore and survey such portions of the Australian coasts, as were wholly or in part unknown to Captains Flinders and King. For this service H. M. Sloop, ' Beagle,' was commissioned at Woolwich, in the second week of February, 1837, by Commander Wickham, who had already twice accompanied her in her wanderings over the least known and most boisterous waters of the globe ; first, in her sister ship of discovery, the ' Adventure,' Captain King, and afterwards as first lieutenant of the sloop now intrusted to his command. Under Captain Wickham some of the most important objects ofthe voyage were achieved, but in consequence of his retirement in March 1841, owing to ill health, the command of the ' Beagle' was entrusted to the author of the follow ing pages ; and as, by a singular combination of circumstances, no less than three long and hazardous voyages of discovery have been successfully completed in this vessel, some account of her here may not be VOYAGES OF THE 'BEAGLE.' 3 wholly uninteresting. The reader will be surprised to learn that she belongs to that much-abused class, the " 10-gun brigs," — coffins, as they are not unfre quently designated in the service ; notwithstanding which, she has proved herself, under every possible variety of trial, in all kinds of weather, an excel lent sea boat. She was built at Woolwich in 1819, and her first exploit was the novel and unprece dented one of passing through old London bridge — (the first rigged man-of-war that had ever floated so high upon the waters of the Thames) — in order to salute at the coronation of King George the Fourth. Towards the close of the year 1825 she was first commissioned by Commander Pringle Stokes,* as second ofiicer of the expedition which sailed from Plymouth on the 22nd of May, 1826, under the command of Captain Philip Parker King; an account of which voyage, published by Captain R. Fitz-Roy, — who ultimately succeeded to the vacancy occasioned by the lamented death of Captain Stokes, and who subsequently comraanded the ' Beagle,' during her second solitary, but most interesting expedition, —bas added to the well earned reputa tion of the seaman, the more enduring laurels which literature and science can alone supply. Though painful recollections surround the sub ject, it would be hardly possible to offer an account ofthe earlier history ofthe Beagle, and yet make no * Not related to the author. 4 DEATH OF CAPTAIN STOKES. allusion to the fate of her first commander, in whom the service lost, upon the testiraony of one well qualified to judge, "an active, intelligent, and raost energetic officer ;" and well has it been remarked by the same high authority, " that those who have been exposed to one of such trials as his, upon an unknown lee shore, during the worst description of weather, will understand and appreciate some of those feelings which wrought too powerfully upon his excitable mind," The constant and pressing cares connected with his responsible command — the hardships and the dangers to which his crew were of necessity exposed during the survey of Tierra del Fuego— and in some degree the awful gloom which rests for ever on that storm-swept coast, — finally destroyed the equilibrium of a mind dis tracted with anxiety and shattered by disease. Perhaps no circumstance could prove more strongly the peculiar difficulties connected with a service of this nature, nor could any more clearly testify that in this melancholy instance every thought of self-preservation was absorbed by a zeal to pro mote the objects of the expedition, which neither danger, disappointment, anxiety, nor disease could render less earnest, or less vigilant, even to the last ! The two vessels returned to England in October, 1830, when the Adventure was paid off at Wool wich, and the Beagle at Plymouth ; she was re- commissioned by Captain Fitz-Roy — to whose de- THIRD VOYAGE OF THE ' BEAGLE.' 5 lightful narrative allusion has been already made — on the 4th July, 1831,* and continued under his command till her return to Woolwich in November, 1836 ; where, after undergoing some slight repairs, she was a third time put in commission for the purposes of discovery, under Commander Wickham, her former first lieutenant ; and shortly afterwards commenced that third voyage, of the toils and suc cesses of which, as an humble contribution to the stores of geographical knowledge, I have attempted in the following pages to convey as faithful and coraplete an account as the circumstances under which the materials have been prepared will allow. Nor will the subject less interest myself, when I call to raind, that for eighteen years the Beagle has been to rae a home upon the wave — that ray first cruize as a Middy was made in her ; that serving in her alone I have passed through every grade in my profession to the rank I have now the honour to hold — that in her I have known the excitements of imminent danger, and the delights of long antici pated success ; and that with her perils and her name are connected those recollections of early and familiar friendship, to which even memory herself fails to do full justice ! * The Beagle was stripped to her timbers, and rebuilt under this able oflBcer's own inspection : and among other improve- nierfts, she had the lightning conductors of the well-known Snow Harris, Esq., F.R.S. fitted to her masts ; a circumstance to which she has more than once been indebted for her safety. b ADMIRALTY INSTRUCTIONS. The following instructions were received by Cap tain Wickham, previous to our departure from Woolwich, and under them I subsequently acted. " By the Commissioners for executing the office of Lord High Admiral of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, Sfc. "Whereas his Majesty's surveying vessel, 'Beagle,' under your command, has been fitted out for the purpose of exploring certain parts of the north-west coast of New Holland, and of surveying the best channels in the straits of Bass and Torres, you are hereby required and directed, as soon as she shall be in all respects ready, to repair to Plymouth Sound, in order to obtain a chronometric departure from the west end of the breakwater, and then to proceed, with all convenient expedition, to Santa Cruz, in Teneriffe. " In the voyage there, you are to endeavour to pass over the reputed site of the Eight Stones, within the limits pointed out by our Hydrographer ; but keeping a strict look out for any appearance of discoloured water, and getting a few deep casts of the lead. " At Teneriffe you are to remain three days, for the purpose of rating the chronometers, when you are to make the best of your way to Bahia, in order to replenish your water, and from thence to Simon's Bay, at the Cape of Good Hope ; where, having ADMIRALTY INSTRUCTIONS. 7 without loss of time obtained the necessary refresh ments, you will proceed direct to Swan River ; but as the severe gales which are soraetiraes felt at that settleraent may not have entirely ceased, you will approach that coast with due caution. " At Swan River, you are to land Lieutenants Grey and Lushington, as well as to refit and water with all convenient despatch ; and you are then to proceed immediately to the north-west coast of New Holland, making the coast in the vicinity of Dampier Land. The leading objects of your exaraination there will be, the extent of the two deep inlets connected with Roebuck Bay and Cygnet Bay, where the strength and elevation of the tides have led to the supposition that Dampier Land is an island, and that the above openings unite in the mouth of a river, or that they branch off from a wide and deep gulf. Moderate and regular sound ings extend far out from Cape Villaret : you will, therefore, in the first instance, make that head land ; and, keeping along the southern shore of Roebuck Bay, penetrate at once as far as the ' Beagle' and her boats can find sufficient depth of water ; but you must, however, take care not too precipitately to commit his Majesty's ship araong these rapid tides, nor to entangle her araong the numerous rocks with which all this part of the coast seems to abound ; but by a cautious advance of your boats, for the double purpose of feeling your way, and at the same time of surveying, you will establish her in a judicious series of stations, equally 8 ADMIRALTY INSTRUCTIONS. beneficial to the progress of the survey, and to the support of your detached people. " Prince Regent River appears to have been fully exarained by Captain King up to its fresh water rapids, but as the adjacent ridges of rocky land which were seen on both sides of Collier Bay, were only laid down from their distant appearance, it is probable that they will resolve themselves into a col lection of islands in the rear of Dampier Land ; and it is possible that they may form avenues to sorae wide expanse of water, or to the mouth of some large river, the discovery of which would be highly interesting. "As this question, whether there are or are not any rivers of magnitude on the western coast is one of the principal objects of the expedition, you will leave no likely opening unexplored, nor desist from its examination till fully satisfied ; but as no estimate can be formed of the time required for its solution, so no period can be here assigned at which you shall abandon it in order to obtain refreshments 5 when that necessity is felt, it must be left to your own judgment, whether to have recourse to the town Balli, in the strait of Alias, or to the Dutch settle ment of Coepang, or even to the Arrou Islands, which have been described as places well adapted for that purpose ; but on these points you will take pains to acquire all the information which can be obtained from the residents at Swan River. " Another circumstance which prevents any pre cise instructions being given to you on this head, ADMIRALTY INSTRUCTIONS. 9 is the uncertainty that prevails here respecting the weather which you may at that period find in those latitudes, and which it is possible may be such as if not altogether to prevent the execution of these orders, may at least cause them to be ineffectually performed, or perhaps lead to a waste of time, which might be better eraployed on other parts of the coast. If such should eventually be the case, it would be prudent not to attempt this intricate part of the coast during tlie prevalence of the north-west monsoon, but to employ it in completing the exami nation of Shark Bay and of Exmouth Gulf, as well as of other unexplored intervals of coast up to the 122nd degree of longitude ; or, with a view to the proxiraity of one of the above-raentioned places of refreshment, it might, perhaps, be advisable, if com pelled to quit the vicinity of Dampier Land, to devote that part of the season to a more careful investigation of the low shores of the gulf of Car pentaria, where it has been surmised, though very loosely, that rivers of some capacity will be found. " The above objects having been accomplished, (in whatever order you may find raost suitable to the service) you will return to the southern settlements for refreshments ; and then proceed, during the summer months of fine weather and long days, to Bass Strait, in which so many fatal accidents have recently occurred, and of which you are to make a correct and effectual survey. " But previous to your undertaking that survey. 10 ADMIRALTY INSTRUCTIONS. as it has been represented to us that it would be very desirable for the perfection of the Tidal theory, that an accurate register of the times and heights of high and low water should be kept for some time in Bass Strait, you will, (if practicable) estab lish a party for that purpose on King Island, and you are to cause the above particulars of the Tides there to be unintermittingly and minutely observed, and registered in the blank forms which will be supplied to you by our Hydrographer. If, however, circum stances should render this measure unadvisable at that island, you will either choose some less objec tionable station, where the average tide in the Strait may be fairly registered ; or, if you can employ no permanent party on this service, you will be the more exact in ascertaining the above parti culars at every one of your stations; and in all parts of this Strait you will carefully note the set and strength of the stream at the intermediate hours between high and low water, and also the time at which the stream turns in the offing. " The survey of Bass Strait should include, 1st, a verification of the two shores by which it is formed ; — 2ndly, such a systematic representation of the depth and quality of the bottom as will ensure to any vessel, which chooses to sound by night or day, a correct knowledge of her position ; — and, 3rdly, a careful examination of the passages on either side of King Island, as well as through the chains of rocks and islands which stretch across from Wilson's ADMIRALTY INSTRUCTIONS. 11 Promontory to Cape Portland. This survey will, of course, comprehend the approach to Port Dal rymple, but the interior details of that extensive harbour may be left to the officers employed by the Lieutenant-Governor of Van Diemen's Land, pro vided you can ascertain that it is his intention to employ them there within any reasonable time. " The number of vessels which are now in the habit of passing through Bass Strait, and the doubts which have recently been expressed, not only of the just position of the dangers it is known to contain, but of the existence of others, show the necessity of this survey being executed with that care and fidelity which will give confidence to all future navigators ; and may, therefore, be more extensive in its limits, and occupy a larger portion of your time than is at present contemplated. You must exercise your own judgment as to the fittest period at which you should either repair to Sydney to refit, or adjourn to Port Dalrymple to receive occasional supplies. Whenever this branch of the service shall be completed, you are forthwith by a safe conveyance to transmit a copy of it to our Secretary, that no time raay be lost in publishing it for the general benefit. " At Sydney you will find the stores which we have ordered to be deposited there for your use, and having carefully rated your chronometers, and taken a fresh departure from the Observatory near that port, and having re-equipped His Majesty's 12 ADMIRALTY INSTRUCTIONS. ship, and fully corapleted her provisions, you will proceed by the inner route to Torres Strait, where the most arduous of your duties are yet to be per formed. The nuraerous reefs which block up that Strait ; the difficulty of entering its intricate chan nels ; the discordant result of the many partial surveys which have from time to time been made there, and the rapidly increasing commerce of which it has become the thoroughfare,' call for a full and satisfactory examination of the whole space between Cape York and the southern shore of New Guinea, and to this important service, therefore, you will devote the remaining period for which your supplies will last. " In this latter survey you will cautiously pro ceed frora the known to the unknown; you will verify the safety of Endeavour Strait, and furnish sufficient reraarks for avoiding its dangers ; you will examine the three groups called York, Prince of Wales, and Banks', Islands ; you will establish the facilities or determine the dangers of passing through those groups, and by a well-considered combination of all those results, you will clearly state the comparative advantages of the different channels, and finally determine on the best course for vessels to pursue which shall be going in either direction, or in opposite seasons. Though with this part of your operations Cook's Bank, Aurora Reef, and the other shoals in the vicinity will necessarily be connected, yet you are not to extend ADMIRALTY INSTRUCTIONS, 13 them to the 143rd degree of longitude, as the examination of the great field to the eastward of that meridian must be left to some future survey which shall include the barrier reefs and their ramified openings from the Pacific Ocean. You are, on the contrary, to proceed, if practicable, but most cautiously, in examining the complicated archipelago of rocks and islands which line the northern side of Torres Strait, till, at length, reaching New Guinea, you will there ascertain the general character of that part of its shore, — whether it be high and continuous, or broken into smaller islands with available channels between them, as has been asserted ; or whether, from being guarded by the innumerable reefs and dangers which are raarked in the charts, it must remain altogether sealed to the navigator. The nature of the country, as well as of its products, will also be inquiries of considerable interest; and you will, perhaps, be able to learn whether the Dutch have made any progress in forming settlements along its shores ; and if so, you will take especial care not to corae into collision with any of their authorities. " Throughout the whole of this extensive region, you will bear in mind the mischievous disposition of the natives ; and while you strictly practise that dignified forbearance and benevolence which tend to impress far higher respect for our power than the exercise of mere force, you will also be sedu lously on your guard against every surprise ; and 14 ADMIRALTY INSTRUCTIONS, though your boats should always be completely armed, you will carefully avoid any conflict where the ignorant or misguided natives may presume on your pacific appearance, or on the disparity of your numbers. " You will then turn to the westward, and pursue this part of the survey, so as to determine the breadth of the foul ground off the coast of New Guinea, and the continuity or interrupted form of that coast ; and you will establish certain positions on the main land, (if the adjacent sea be navigable, and if not on the several advancing islands) which may serve as useful land-falls for vessels coming from the Indian Seas, or for points of departure for those who have passed through any of these straits. You will thus continue a general exaraination of this hitherto unexplored coast as far as Cape Valsche, which is now said to be only the termi nating point of a chain of large islands, and then across to the Arrou Islands, which are supposed to be reraarkably fertile, to abound with resources and refreshments, and to be peopled by a harmless and industrious race, but which do not appear to have been visited by any of his Majesty's ships. " The length of time which may be required for the due execution of all the foregoing objects cannot be foreseen. It may exceed that for which your supplies are calculated, or, on the other hand, a less degree of the supposed coraplexity in the ground you will have traversed, along with the ADMIRALTY INSTRUCTIONS. 15 energy and diligence with which we rely on you for conducting these iraportant services, may enable you to complete them within that period. In this latter case you will return to the Northern coast of New Holland, and selecting such parts of it as may afford useful harbours of retreat, or which raay appear to coraprise the raouths of any strearas of magnitude, you will employ your spare time in such discoveries as may more or less tend to the general object of the expedition. " Before your departure from Sydney you will have learnt that His Majesty's Governraent has established a new settleraent at Port Essington, or somewhere on the North coast of New Holland ; and before you finally abandon that district you will visit this new colony, and contribute by every means in your power to its resources and its stability. " We have not, in the concluding part of these Orders, pointed out the places or the periods at which you are to replenish your provisions, because the latter must depend on various circumstances which cannot be foreseen, and the former may be safely left to your own decision and prudence ; but when you have been three years on your ground, unless some very important result were to promise itself from an extension of that period, you will proceed to the Island of Mauritius, in order to com plete your stock of water and provisions, and then, touching at either side of the Cape of Good Hope, according to the season, and afterwards at Ascen- 16 ADMIRALTY INSTRUCTIONS. sion, you will make the best of your way to Spithead, and report your arrival to our Secretary. " Directions will be forwarded to the command ers-in-chief at the Cape of Good Hope and in the East Indies, and to the governors or lieutenant- governors of the several settlements at which you have been ordered to call, to assist and further your enterprise as far as their means will admit : and you will lose no opportunity, at those several places, of informing our Secretary of the general outline of your proceedings, . and of transmitting traces of the surveys which you may have effected, together with copies of your tide and other obser vations. You will likewise, by every safe oppor tunity, communicate to our Hydrographer detailed accounts of all your proceedings which relate to the surveys ; and you will strictly comply with the enclosed instructions, which have been drawn up by hira under our directions, as well as all those which he may, from time to time, forward by our command. "Given under our hands, the Sth of June, 1837. " Signed, " Chas, Adam. " Geo. Elliott, "To J, C. Wickham, Esq, " Commander of His Majesty's surveying vessel ' Beagle,' at Woolwich. " By command of their Lordships. " Signed, " John Barrow," ADMIRALTY INSTRUCTIONS, 17 Nor should the valuable instructions of Captain Beaufort, Hydrographer to the Admiralty, be for gotten ; such extracts as may probably prove of interest to the general reader are here subjoined. Extracts from Hydrographer's Instructions. " The general objects of the expedition which has been placed under your command, having been set forth in their Lordships' orders, it becomes my duty to enter somewhat more specifically into the nature and details of the service which you are to perform. Their Lordships having expressed the fullest reliance on your zeal and talents, and having cautiously and wisely abstained from fettering you in that division and disposition of your time which the periodic changes of the seasons or the necessities of the vessel raay require, it would ill becorae me to enter too minutely into any of those arrangeraents which have been so flatteringly left to your discre tion ; yet, in order to assist you with the results of that experience which has been derived from the many surveys carried on under the direction of the Admiralty, and to ensure that uniform consistency of method in your varied labours, which will so greatly enhance their value, I will briefly touch on some of the most iraportant subjects, and repeat those instructions which their Lordships have in every forraer case ratified, and which it is therefore expected you will bear in mind during the whole progress of your survey. VOL. I. c 18 ADMIRALTY IN.STRUCTIONS. " The first point to which your orders advert, after quitting England, is the Eight Stones, where you will probably add one to the many testimonies which have been already collected of their non existence, at least in the place assigned to them in the old charts ; but, before we venture to expunge them, it becomes a serious duty to traverse their position in every possible direction. Should the weather be favourable, it would be desirable, while crossing their parallel, to obtain one very deep cast of the lead, and should that succeed in reaching the bottom, the sacrifice of a few days will be well bestowed in endeavouring to trace a further portion of the bank. A small chart, shewing the tracks of various ships across this place, is hereto annexed, and as the meridian of 16° 22' nearly bisects the two adjacent courses, you are recommended to cross their parallel in that longitude. " From the Canary Islands to the coast of Brazil, and indeed throughout every part of your voyage, you should endeavour to pass over the places of all the reported Vigias which lie near your course, either outward or homeward. You will perceive a multitude of them carelessly marked on every chart, but of some you will find a circumstantial de scription in that useful publication, the Nautical Magazine, and a day devoted to the search of any, which will not withdraw you too far from your due course, will be well employed. " The rocks off Cape Leeuwin, some near King ADMIRALTY INSTRUCTIONS. 19 George Sound, the dangerous patch off Kangaroo Island, and many others, of which accounts are given in the above work, ought, if possible, to be examined, as raore immediately appertaining to your own field. Whenever found, the depth, nature, and limits of the banks on which they stand, should be determined, as they might prove to be of suffi cient extent to give warning to the danger, and then a direct course should be immediately made by the ' Beagle' to the nearest land, where a con venient place should be selected, and its position carefully ascertained. "At Swan River you will have previously learnt from Lieutenant Roe, the Surveyor-General, whether the above mentioned rocks off Kangaroo Island, have been again seen, or their position altered, since Captain Brockraan's first description, so as to save your time in the search. " You will no doubt obtain from that intelligent officer. Lieutenant Roe, rauch iraportant informa tion respecting the north-west coast, as well as all the detached intelligence, which during his long residence there he must have collected, relating to every part of the shores of New Holland. From him, also, you will acquire many useful hints about the places in the Indian Sea where refreshments may be obtained, as well as some insight into the disposition of the authorities and the inhabitants whom you will meet there, and he will probably be able to give you a clear account of the duration of the monsoons and their accompanying weather. c 2 20 ADMIRALTY INSTRUCTIONS. " If at Port Dalrymple it should so happen that you can wait on Sir John Franklin, it is probable that he will detach Lieutenant Burnett to co-operate with you in the survey of Bass Strait, and it is certain that the Governor will do everything in his power to assist your labours. At Sydney you will have the advantage of seeing Captain P. P, King, whose long experience of all those coasts, as well as of the seasons, and of the manner of dealing with the inhabitants, will be of the utmost use to you ; and whose zeal for the King's service, and whose love of science, will lead him to do everything pos sible to promote your views. If Mr. Cunningham, the Government Botanist, be there, he also will, I am convinced, eagerly communicate to you and your officers everything which may be serviceable in the pursuits connected with Natural History. " At Swan River, at Port Dalrymple, and at Syd ney, it may, perhaps, be possible for you to hire, at a low rate, some person acquainted with the dialects of the natives, which you are subsequently to visit, and with whom it will be so essential to be on friendly terms. Such a person will greatly assist in that object; but you will keep him on board no longer than absolutely necessary, and you will take care to provide for his return if the ' Beagle' should not be able to carry him back." " GENERAL INFORMATION. " In such an extensive and distant survev, nu- merous subjects of inquiry, though not strictly ADMIRALTY INSTRUCTIONS. 21 nautical, will suggest themselves to your active mind ; and though, from your transient stay at any one place, you will often experience the mortifica tion of leaving them incomplete, yet that should not discourage you in the collection of every useful fact within your reach. Your example in this respect will stimulate the efforts of the younger officers under your coraraand, and through thera may even have a beneficial influence on the future chara,cter of the navy. " It has been suggested by some geologists, that the coral insect, instead of raising its superstruc ture directly from the bottom of the sea, works only on the suraraits of submarine mountains, which have been projected upwards by volcanic action; They account, therefore, for the basin-like form so generally observed in coral islands, by supposing that they insist on the circular lip of extinct volcanic craters ; and as much of your work will lie among islands and cays of coral formation, you should collect every fact which can throw any light on the subject. " Hitherto it has been raade a part of the duty of all the surveying vessels to keep an exact register of the height of the baroraeter, at its two maxima of 9, and its two miniraa of 3 o'clock, as well as that of the therraoraeter at the above periods, and at its own day and night maximum and minimum, as well as the continual comparative temperature of the sea and air. This was done with the view of 22 ADMIRALTY INSTRUCTIONS. assisting to provide authentic data, collected from all parts of the world, and ready for the use of future labourers, whenever some accidental dis covery, or the direction of some powerful mind, should happily rescue that science from its present neglected state. But those hours of entry greatly interfere with the employments of such officers as are capable of registering those instruments with the precision and delicacy which alone can render meteorologic data useful, and their future utility is at present so uncertain, that it does not appear necessary that you should do more than record, twice a day, the height of the former, as well as the extreraes of the thermometer, unless, from some unforeseen cause, you should be long detained in any one port, when a system of these observations might then be advantageously undertaken. There are, however, sorae occasional observations, which cannot fail of being extensively useful in future investigations : " 1, During the approach ofthe periodic changes of wind and weather, — and then the hygrometer, also, should find a place in the journal. " 2. The mean temperature of the sea at the equator, or, perhaps, under a vertical sun. These observations should be repeated whenever the ship is in either of those situations, as well in the Atlantic as in the Pacific ; they should be made far away frora the influence of the land, and at certain con stant depths,-- suppose fifty and ten fathoras,— and ADMIRALTY INSTRUCTIONS. 23 at the surface also ; and this last ought to be again observed at the corresponding hour of the night. " 3, A collection of good observations, systemati cally continued, for the purpose of connecting the isothermal lines of the globe, and raade, as above, at certain uniform depths. " 4, Some very interesting facts might result from the comparison of the direct heat of the solar rays in high and low latitudes. The two thermometers for this purpose should be precisely similar in every respect ; the ball of the one should be covered with white kerseymere, and of the other with black ker seymere, and they should be suspended far out of the reach of any reflected heat frora the ship, and also at the sarae elevation above the surface of the water ; the observations should be made out of sight of land, in a variety of latitudes, ' and at diffe rent hours of the day, and every pains taken to render them all strictly similar and comparative. " 5. All your meteorologic instruments should be carefully compared throughout a large extent of the scales, and tabulated for the purpose of apply ing the requisite corrections when necessary, and one or more of them should be compared with the standard instruraents at the Royal Society or Royal Observatory on your return home. "6. All observations which involve the compari son of minute differences should be the mean result of at least three readings, and should be as much as possible the province of the same individual observer. 24 ADMIRALTY INSTRUCTIONS. " 7. In some of those singularly heavy showers which occur in crossing the Equator, and also at the changes of the Monsoon, attempts should be made to measure the quantity of rain that falls in a given time. A very rude instrument, if properly placed, will answer this purpose, — merely a wide superficial basin to receive the rain, and to deliver it into a pipe, whose diaraeter, compared with that of the mouth of the basin, will shew the number of inches, &c, that have fallen on an exaggerated scale. "8. It is unnecessary to call your attention to the necessity of recording every circumstance con nected with that highly interesting phenomenoni, the Aurora Australis, such as the angular bearing and elevation of the point of coruscation ;— the bearing also of the principal luminous arches, &c, " 9, It has been asserted that lunar and solar halos are not always exactly circular, and a general order might, therefore, be given to the officer of the watch, to measure their vertical and horizontal diaraeters whenever they occur, day or night. " Large collections of natural history cannot be expected, nor any connected account of the struc ture or geological arrangements of the great islands which you are to coast ; nor, indeed, would minute inquiries on these subjects be at all consistent with the true objects of the survey. But, to an observant eye, some facts will unavoidably present themselves, which will be well worth recording, and the medical OFFICERS AND CHEW. 25 officers will, no doubt, be anxious to contribute their share to the scientific character of the survey. " I have now exhausted every subject to which it can be necessary to call the attention of an officer of your long experience ; and I have, therefore, only further to express my conviction, that if Providence permits you to retain your wonted health and activity, you will pursue the great objects of this expedition with all the energy in your power, and with all the perseverance consistent with a due regard to the safety of His Majesty's Ship, and to the comfort of your officers and crew. " Given, &c. this 8th of June, 1837. " F. Beaufort, " Hydrographer." The crew embarked in the ' Beagle' in this her third voyage, consisted of John Clements Wickham, Commander and Sur veyor ; James B. Emery, Lieutenant ; Henry Eden, Lieutenant ; John Lort Stokes, Lieutenant and Assistant Sur- vevor ; Alexander B. Usborne, Master; Benjamin Bynoe, Surgeon ; Thomas Tait, Assistant Surgeon ; John E. Dring, Clerk in charge ; Benjamin F. Helpman, Mate ; Auchmuty T. Freeze, Mate ; 26 OFFICERS AND CREW. Thomas T. Birch, Mate ; L. R. Fitzmaurice, Mate;* William Tarrant, Master's Assistant ; Charles Keys,t Clerk ; Thomas Sorrell, Boatswain ; John Weeks, Carpenter ; A corporal of marines and seven privates, with forty seamen and boys. During our six years' voyage the following changes occurred: — Mr. Usborne invalided, in consequence of his wound, in May 1839 ; Mr. Birch exchanged, in August 1839, with Mr, Pasco, into the « Britomart ;' Mr. Freeze exchanged, in September 1839, with Mr. Forsyth, J into the ' Pelorus ;' in February 1840, Mr. Helpman joined the colonial service in Western Australia; Mr. C. J. Parker was ap pointed, in December 1840, to Mr. Usborne's vacancy, superseding Mr. Tarrant, who had been doing Master's duty since Mr, Usborne left ; Lieu tenants Emery and Eden returned to England in * This officer I afterwards appointed to the assistant surveyor- ship, (vacated upon my succeeding Captain Wickham,) on account of the active part he had taken in the surveying duties : an appointment most handsomely confirmed by Captain Beaufort. -|- Mr. Keys was always a volunteer for boat work, and is entitled to honourable mention as being, even where all were zealous, of great value upon more than one occasion. % From this officer's previous knowledge of the duties of sur veying, having sailed in the ' Beagle' on her former voyage, he proved a very valuable addition to our party. DEPARTURE FROM WOOLWICH, 27 March 1841. Late in the same month Commander Wickham invalided, when the writer of this nar rative was appointed to the vacant command, by Commander Owen Stanley, H, M. S. ' Britomart,' senior officer present, an appointment subsequently confirmed by the Lords of the Admiralty. In April 1841, Lieutenant Graham Gore succeeded Lieutenant Emery.')' Comraander Wickham, my self, Mr. Bynoe, the Boatswain, and two marines, had served in both the previous voyages of the ' Beagle.' On the 9th of June we left Woolwich, in tow of IT. M. Steamer ' Boxer,' furnished with every comfort and necessary (by the Lords of the Ad miralty,) which our own experience, or the kind * Lieutenant Gore, had been appointed to H. M. S. ' Herald,' and came down from India, expecting to join her at Sydney : on his arrival, he found she had left the station ; and though he might have spent some months among his friends there, he in the most spirited manner, at once volunteered to join the ' Beagle,' and proved himself throughout the remainder of the voyage of the greatest value, both to the service, and the friend who here seeks to do justice to his worth. This deserving officer would seem to have an hereditary taate for the duties of a voyage of surveying and discovery, his grandfather having accompanied the renowned circumnavigator. Cook, and his father, the unfortunate Bligh. Besides Lieutenant Gore's valua ble services in H. M. S. ' Beagle,' he was 1st Lieutenant of H, M. S. ' Volage,' during the early part of the Chinese war, aud present at the capture of Aden : he served under Captain Sir Geo. Back in the Polar expedition, and on board H. M, S. ' Albion' at the battle of Navarin. 28 LIEUTS, GREY AND LUSHINGTON's PARTY. interest of Captain Beaufort could suggest. It had been determined by the Government, — the plan having been suggested by Lieutenant Grey to Lord Glenelg, then Secretary of State for the Colonies, — that, simultaneously with the survey of the seaboard of the great continent of Australia, under Captain Wickham, a party should be em ployed in inland researches, in order more particu larly to solve the problem of the existence of a great river, or water inlet, supposed, upon the authority of Captains King and Dampier, to open out at sorae point on its western or north-western side, then but partially and imperfectly surveyed. This expedition was now entrusted to the command of Lieutenant Grey, — since Governor of South Australia, — who was accompanied by Lieutenant, now Captain Lushington ; Mr. Walker, Surgeon, and Corporals Coles and Auger, of the Royal Sap pers and Miners, who had volunteered their services : they were to take passage in the ' Beagle,' and to proceed either to the Cape of Good Hope or Swan River, as Lieutenant Grey might ultimately determine. It was arranged that they should join us at Plyraouth, and on our arrival there on the 20th of June, — having called at Portsmouth on our way, — we found them anxiously expecting us. Here we were busily occupied for some days in rating the chronometers, and testing the various mag netic instruments : we also during this time swung tlje ship to try the local attraction, which neither FAREWELL GLANCE AT PLYMOUTH. 29 here, nor in any subsequent experiments, exceeded one degree. As the ship lay in the Sound our observations were made on a stone in the break water marked ^^, from whence we took our chro nometric departure ; it is about one-third of the length frora the east end, and had been used for similar purposes by Captains King and Fitz-Roy, We considered it to be west of Greenwich, Oh. 16ra. 33s, 4'. Hardly any one can visit Plymouth Sound with out being at once struck with the singular beauty of the surrounding scenery ; nor shall I easily forget the mingled feelings of admiration and regret with which my eye dwelt upon the quiet spot the evening before bidding it a long, long fare well. The sea had sunk to sleep, and not a single breath disturbed its glassy surface : the silent waters — and yet how eloquently that silence spoke to the heart — glided swiftly past ; into the still air rose the unbroken column of the thin and distant smoke ; through long vistas of far-off trees, which art and nature had combined to group, the raagni ficent building at Mount Edgcurabe, but veiled, to increase its beauty : scenery varying from the soft luxury of the park, to the rude freedom of the wild raountain's side, by turns solicited the eye ; and as I leant against a shattered rock, filled with all those nameless feelings which such an hour was so well fitted to call forth, I felt notwithstanding all the temptations of promised adventure, the full bitterness of the price we pay for its excitements ! 30 DEATH OF WILLIAM THE FOURTH, On the evening of the 21st of June, we received the melancholy intelligence of the death of our late most gracious Sovereign, King William the Fourth, To all classes of his subjects his mild and paternal government has endeared his memory ; and none however they may differ with him, or with each other, upon that great political revolution which will render the narae and reign of the Fourth Williara, no less reraarkable than that of the Third, will refuse the tribute of their sincerest respect for qualities that adorned the sovereign while they exalted the man. By the naval service, in which he had spent the early part of his life, his name will long be remembered with affection ; he never lost sight of its interests ; and warmly supported its several institutions and charities, long after he had been called by Providence to the Throne of his Fathers. We bore the first intelligence of his fate, and the account of the accession of our present most gracious Queen, to every port at which we touched up to the period of our reaching Swan River. CHAPTER II, PLYMOUTH TO BAHIA, SAIL FROM PLYMOUTH — THE EIGHT STONES — PEAK OF TE NERIFE — APPROACH TO SANTA CRUZ — " LA CUEVA DE LOS GUANCHES" TRADE WITH MOGADORE INTERCOURSE BETWEEN MOGADORE AND MOMBAS REASON TO REGRET MOMBAS HAVING BEEN GIVEN UP SAIL FROM TENERIFE SEARCH FOR ROCKS NEAR THE EQUATOR ARRIVAL AT SAN SALVADOR — APPEARANCE OF BAHIA STATE OF THE COUNTRY — SLAVE TRADE — AND RESULTS OF SLAVERY EXTENSION OF THE SLAVE TRADE ON THE EASTERN COAST OF AFRICA — MORAL CONDITION OF THE NEGROES — MIDDy's GRAVE — DEPARTURE FROM BAHIA— AND MR. "VERY WELL. DICE." The morning of the 5th July saw us running out of Plymouth Sound with a light northerly wind, and hazy weather : soon after we were outside we spoke H. M. S. ' Princess Charlotte,' bearing the flag of Admiral Sir R. Stopford, and as she was bound down channel we kept together for the next three days : she had old shipmates on board, and was not the less an object of interest on that account. Nothing worthy of particular notice occurred during the run to Santa Cruz in Tenerife, which we made on the 18th of July ; having in obedience to our instructions passed over the presumed site of " The 32 PEAK OF TENERIFE, Eight Stones," thus adding another though almost needless " testimony to their non-existence, at least in the place assigned them in the old charts." In passing the gut of Gibraltar we remarked the current setting us into it : this I have before noticed in outward voyages : in the homeward, one is gene rally too far to the westward to feel its effects. A small schooner sailed for England on the 20th, and most of us took the opportunity of sending letters by her. I learnt from the master of her that a tiraber ship had been recently picked up near the island, having been dismasted in a gale off the banks of Newfoundland ; she was 105 days drifting here. We were not so fortunate on this occasion as to obtain a distant sea view of the far-famed peak of Tenerife. There are few natural objects of greater interest when so beheld. Rising at a distance of some 40 leagues in dira and awful solitude from the bosom of the seemingly boundless waves that guard its base, it rests at first upon the blue outline of the horizon like a conically shaped cloud : hour after hour as you approach the island it seems to grow upon the sight, until at length its broad reflection darkens the surrounding waters. I can imagine nothing better calculated than an appearance of this kind to satisfy a beholder of the spherical figure of the earth, and it would seem almost incredible that early navigators should have failed to find conviction in the unvarying testimonies of their own experience, which an a,pproach to every shore afforded. LA CUEVA DE LOS GUANCHES. 33 In approaching the anchorage of Santa Cruz, vessels should close with the shore, and get into soundings before — as is the general custom — ar riving abreast of the town, where from the steepness of the bank, and its proxiraity to the shore, they are obliged to anchor suddenly, a practice never desir able, and to vessels short handed, always inconve nient: besides calms sometimes prevail in the offing, which would prevent a vessel reaching the anchorage at all. Lieut. Grey was most indefatigable in collecting information during the short period of our stay at the island, as an e^xamination of his interesting work will at once satisfy the reader : he explored a cave three railes to the north-east of Santa Cruz, known by tradition as " La Cueva de los Guanches," and reputed to be a burying place of the aboriginal inha bitants of the island : it was full of bones, and from the specimens he brought away, and also from his description of all that he examined, they appear to have belonged to a small-limbed race of men. Besides the wine trade, a considerable traffic is carried on with the Moors upon the opposite coast, who exchange gums and sometimes ivory for cotton and calico prints, and occasionally tobacco. The chief port for this trade is Mogadore, from whence ships not unfrequently sail direct to Liverpool. A singular circumstance was mentioned to me by our first Lieutenant Mr, Emery, as tending to prove VOL, I. D 34 TRADE WITH MOGADORE, the existence of commercial intercourse between the various tribes in the interior, and the inhabitants of the coast at Mogadore on the north-west coast of Africa, and Mombas on the south-east. In the year 1830, certain English goods were recognized in the hands of the Moors at Mogadore which had been sold two years previously to the natives at Mombas. The great extent of territory passed over within these dates, renders this fact somewhat extraordi nary ; and it affords a reason for regretting that we did not keep possession of Mombas, which would 'ere this have enabled us to penetrate into the inte rior of Africa : we abandoned it, at the very time when the tribes in the interior were beginning to find out the value of our manufactures, especially calicoes and cottons. From the best information that Lieutenant Emery had obtained among the natives, it seems certain that a very large lake exists in the interior, — its banks thickly studded with buildings, and lying nearly due west from Mombas. It was Lieutenant. Eraery's intention to have visited this lake had he remained longer at Mombas ; the Sultan's son was to have accompanied him, an advan tage which, coupled with his own knowledge of the country and its customs, together with his great popularity among the natives, must have ensured him success. It is to be feared, that so favourable an opportunity for clearing up the doubts and darkness SAIL FROM TENERIFE. 35 which at present beset geographers in attempting to delineate this unknown land, will not soon again present itself. Having completed the necessary magnetic obser vations, and rated the chronometers, we sailed from Tenerife, on the evening of the 23rd. It should be noticed that the results obtained from our obser vations for the dip of the needle, differed very mate rially from those given by former observers : the experiments made by Lieutenant Grey in different parts of the island, satisfied us that the variation could not be imputed to merely local causes. As in obedience to our instructions we had to examine and determine the hitherto doubtful posi tion of certain rocks near the Equator, about the meridian of 20° W, longitude, we were obliged to take a course that carried us far to the eastward of the Cape de Verd Islands ; for this reason we had the N.E. trade wind very light ; we finally lost it on the 30th, in lat. 13° 0' N., and lon. 14° 40' W. ; it had been for the two previous days scarcely per ceptible. The S. E. trade reached us on the Sth of August, lat. 3° 30' N, long. 17° 40' W., and on the morning of the 10th we crossed the Equator in long, 22° 0' W. : when sundry of our crew and passengers under went the usual ceremonies in honour of old Father Neptune, A close and careful search within the limits specified in our instructions justified us in certifying the non-existence of the rocks therein D 2 36 ARRIVAL AT SAN SALVADOR. alluded to : but before we presume to pass any censure upon those who preceded us in the honours of maritime discovery, and the labours of maritime survey, it will be proper to bear in mind the ceaseless changes to which the earth's surface is subject, and that, though our knowledge is but limited of the phenomena connected with subterranean and vol canic agency, still, in the sudden upheaval and subsidence of Sabrina and Graham Islands, we have sufficient evidence of their vast disturbing power, to warrant the supposition that such might have been the case with the rocks for which our search proved fruitless. Nor are these the only causes that may be assigned to reconcile the conflicting testimonies of various Navigators upon the existence of such dangers ; the origin of which raay be ascribed to drift timber — reflected light discolouring the sea, and causing the appearance of broken water — or to the floating carcase of a whale, by which I have myself been more than once deceived. A succession of winds between S.S. E. and S. E., with the aid of a strong westerly current, soon brought us near the Brazils. We made the land on the raorning of the 17th, about 15 miles to the north east of Bahia, and in the afternoon anchored off the town of San Salvador. Though this was neither my first nor second visit to Bahia, I was still not indifferent to the magnificent or rather luxuriant tropical scenery which it pre sents, A bank of such verdure as these sun-lit STATE OF THE COUNTRY AT BAHIA, 37 climes alone supply, rose precipitously from the dark blue water, dotted with the white and gleaming walls of houses and convents half hidden in woods of every tint of green ; while here and there the lofty spires of some Christian temple pointed to a yet fairer world, invisible to mortal eye, and suggested even to the least thoughtful, that glorious as is this lower earth, framed by Heaven's beneficence for man's enjoyment, still it is not that home to which the hand of revelation directs the aspirations of our frail humanity, I had last seen Bahia in August, 1836, on the homeward voyage of the Beagle ; and it was then in anything but a satisfactory condition ; the white population divided among theraselves, and the slaves concerting by one bloody and desperate blow to achieve their freedora. It did not appear to have iraproved during the intervening period : a revolutionary raovement was still contemplated by the more liberal section of the Brazilians, though at the very period they thus judiciously selected for squabbling with one another, they were living in hourly expectation of a rising, en masse, of the blacks. That such an insurrection raust sooner or later take place — and take place with all the most fearful circumstances of long delayed and complete revenge — no unprejudiced observer can doubt. That selfish and short-sighted policy which is almost invariably allied with despotism, has led to such constant additions by importation to the 38 SLAVE TRADE. number of the slave population, that it now exceeds the white in the ratio of ten to one, while individually the slaves are both physically and in natural capa city raore than equal to their sensual and degenerate masters. Bahia and its neighbourhood have a bad erainence in the annals of the Brazilian slave-trade. Upwards of fifty, some accounts say eighty cargoes, had been landed there since the Beagle's last visit : nor is the circumstance to be wondered at when we bear in mind, that the price of a slave then varied from £90. to £100., and this in a country not abounding in money. The declining trade, the internal disorganization, and the rapidly augmenting slave population of Bahia, all tend to prove that the system of slavery which the Brazilians consider essential to the wel fare of their country, operates directly against her real interests. The wonderful resources of the Brazils will, however, never be fully developed until the Brazilians resolve to adopt the line of policy suggested in Captain Fitz-Roy's interesting remarks upon this subject. To encourage an in dustrious native population on the one hand, and on the other to declare the slave-trade piratical, are the first necessary steps in that march of improve ment, by which this tottering empire may yet be preserved from premature decay. It would, however, be " a vain imagination," to suppose that this wiser and more humane determi nation will be spontaneously adopted by those raost RESULTS OF SLAVERY, 39 implicated in this debasing and demoralizing traffic. Indeed it appears from the best information obtained on the subject, that since the vigilance of our cruizers has comparatively put a stop to the trade on the west coast of Africa, — where it has received a great discouragement — it has been greatly extended on the east. Could it but have been foreseen by our Govemment that their efforts upon the west coast, would in proportion as they were successful, only tend to drive the traders in human flesh to the eastward, it is probable that Mombas would have still been retained under our dominion ; for such a possession would have enabled us to exercise an effectual control in that quarter : as it is, it gives additional reason to regret that the place was ever abandoned. The horrors of the passage — horrors which no imagination can heighten, no pen ade quately pourtray — are by this alteration in the chief seat of the accursed trade most fearfully aug mented. The poor victiras of cruelty and fraud and avarice, in their raost repulsive forms, are packed away between decks scarcely three feet high, in small vessels of 30 or 40 tons, and thus situated have to encounter the cold and stormy passage round the Cape : the average mortality is of course most frightful, but the smaUness of the vessels era ployed decreases the risk of the speculators in huraan flesh, who consider themselves amply repaid, if they save one living cargo out of every five embarked ! 40 MORAL CONDITION OF THE NEGROES. In the raean time cargoes of slaves are almost weekly landed in the neighbourhood of Bahia : the thousand evils of the vile system are each day in creasing, and with a rapid but unregarded footstep the fearful hour steals on, when a terrible reckoning of unrestrained revenge will repay all the accumu lated wrongs of the past, and write in characters of blood an awful warning for the future ! So far as we could learn, no attempts are made by the raasters to introduce the blessings of Chris tianity araong those whom they deprive of temporal freedom. The slave is treated as a valuable animal and nothing more : the claims of his kindred huraa nity so far forgotten as they relate to his first un alienable right of personal freedom, are not likely to be reraerabered in his favour, in what concerns his coheritage in the sublirae sacrifice of atonement once freely offered for us all ! He toils through long and weary years, cheered by no other hope than the far distant and oft delusive expectation that a dearly pur chased freedom — if for freedom's blessings any price can be too costly — will enable him to look once more upon the land of his nativity; and then close his eyes, surrounded by the loved few whom the ties of kindred endear even to his rude nature. It would swell this portion of the work to an unreasonable extent, to give any lengthened details of the working of a system, about which among my readers no two opinions can exist. Let it suffice to say, that the Europeans are generally better and middy's GRAVE. 41 less exacting masters than the Brazilians. Among the latter it is a common practice to send so many slaves each day to earn a certain fixed sum by car rying burdens, pulling in boats, or other laborious employment ; and those who return at night without the sum thus arbitrarily assessed as the value of their day's work, are severely flogged for their presumed idleness. During our brief stay at Bahia I paid a visit to the grave of poor young Musters, a little Middy in the Beagle during our last voyage, who died here on the 19th May, 1832, from the effects of a fever caught while away on an excursion up the river Macacu. He was a son of Lord Byron's " Mary," and a great favourite with all on board. Poor boy I no stone marks his lonely resting place upon a foreign shore, but the long grass waves over his humble grave, and the tall palra tree bends to the raelancholy wind that sighs above it. As I paid his raeraory the tribute due to his many virtues and his early death, I breathed a prayer that the still and placid beauty of the spot where his mortal remains return to their kindred dust, may typify the tranquil happiness of that world of spirits with which his own is now united ! On the afternoon of Friday the 25th, we left the magnificent bay of Bahia, and after obtaining an offing, stood away to the southward and eastward. I was much amused by a story of Grey's a day or two after we sailed : it seems he had mistaken the 42 MR, " VERY WELL, DICE." Quartermaster's usual call in conning the ship of " Very well, dice," (a corruption of " very well, thus") for a complimentary notice of the man at the helm ; and anxious to know the individual who so distinguished himself, had two or three times gone on deck to see " Mr. Very well Dice :" finding a different helmsman each time, completely con founded him ; and when I explained the matter, he joined me in a hearty laugh at the mistake ! CHAPTER IIL FROM THE CAPE TO SWAN RIVER, A GALE ANCHOR IN SIMOn's BAY H.M.S. THALIA — CAPTAIN HARRIS, AND HIS ADVENTURES IN SOUTHERN AFRICA— PRO CEEDINGS OF THE LAND PARTY — LEAVE SIMON's BAY — ¦ AN OVERLOADED SHIP HEAVY WEATHER AND WET DECKS ISLAND OF AMSTERDAM — ITS TRUE LONGITUDE ST. Paul's — water — westerly variation — rottenest ISLAND gage's roads SWAN RIVER SETTLEMENT FREEMANTLE AN INLAND LAKE PLANS FOR THE FU TURE — ILLNESS OF CAPTAIN WICKHAM TIDAL PHENO MENA — PERTH — APPROACH TO IT — NARROW ESCAPE OF THE FIRST SETTLERS — THE DARLING RANGE — ABUNDANT HARVEST — SINGULAR FLIGHT OF STRANGE BIRDS CU RIOUS CLIFF NEAR SWAN RIVER BALD HEAD— MR. DAR- WIN's THEORY THE NATIVES MIAGO — ANECDOTES OF NATIVES THEIR SUPERSTITIONS BARBAROUS TRADI TIONS, THEIR USES AND THEIR LESSONS. We had, upon the whole, a favourable passage across to the Cape ; but on the 17th of September, when distant from it about 500 miles, we encoun tered a moderate gale from the north. As this was the first heavy weather we had experienced since our departure from England, I was curious to see what effect such a strange scene would have on our passengers. Wrapt in mute astonishment. 44 ANCHOR AT SIMOn's BAY. they stood gazing with admiration and awe on the huge waves as they rolled past, occasionally im mersing our little vessel in their white crests — and listening, with emotions not wholly devoid of fear, to the wild screams of the sea-birds as they skimmed o'er the steep acclivities of these moving masses. The landsmen were evidently deeply impressed with the grandeur of a storm at sea ; nor can the hardiest seaman look with unconcern on such an exhibition of the majesty of Him, whose will the winds and waves obey. Not more poetically beautiful than literally true are the words of the Psalmist, so appropriately introduced into the Forra of Prayers at Sea, — " They that go down to the sea in ships, and occupy their business in great waters : these men see the works of the Lord, and his wonders in the deep : for at his word the storray wind ariseth, which lifteth up the waves thereof." My own ex perience has over and over again satisfied me, that, mingled with many a dim superstition, a deep reli gious sentiment — a conviction of the might and mercy of Heaven — often rests on the heart of the most reckless searaan, hiraself all unconscious of its existence, yet strangely influenced by its operations ! We sighted land on the evening of the 20th of September, rounded the Cape the next morning, and in the afternoon anchored in Simon's Bay. We found here H.M.S. 'Thalia,' bearing the flag of Admiral Sir Patrick Campbell, Comraander-in- ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN HARRIS. 45 chief of the Cape station : aud during our subse quent stay received every attention which kindness and courtesy could suggest, frora himself and his officers. We were glad to ascertain that our chronometers had been performing admirably. They gave the longitude of Simon's Bay, within a few seconds of our homeward determination during the last voyage, Mr. Maclear, of the Royal Observatory, and Cap tain Wauchope, of the flag-ship, had been measur ing the difference of longitude between Simon's Bay dock -yard and Cape -Town Observatory, by flashing lights upon the summit of a mountain raid- way between those two places. Their trials gave a greater difference, by a half-second, between the two raeridians, than we had obtained on a former visit by carrying chronometers to and fro. The results stand as follow : s Mr. Maclear and Captain Wauchope . 11'5" H.M, Sloop, " Beagle" . , . 11-0 We found at the Cape the renowned Captain Harris, H.E, I. Corapany's Borabay Engineers, who had just returned frora his sporting expedition into the interior of Southern Africa, having made his way through every obstacle, from the frontier of the Cape Colony, through the territories of the chief Moselekatse, to the Tropic of Capricorn. With his spirit-stirring accounts of hunting adven ture and savage manners we were all most highly gratified. What he had seen, where he had been. 46 SAIL FOR SWAN RIVER. and what he had performed " by flood and field," have since been told to the world by himself, and therefore need not be repeated here : but it would be unpardonable not to do justice to his energy, his perseverance, and his success. He had collected quite a museum of the Natural History of the wild beasts against whom his crusade had been directed ; while his collection of drawings, both as regarded the animals delineated, and the appearance of the country in which they were found, was really most beautiful : and raany a pleasant hour was spent in viewing the various specimens and illustrations, each one of which testified the intrepidity and skill of himself or his no less adventurous com panion, William Richardson, Esq., B.CS, It will readily be believed that these two gentlemen were then, themselves, the great Lions of that part of Africa. Having corapleted our observations, and crammed every available square inch of the ' Beagle' with various stores, — a proceeding rendered absolutely necessary by the unsatisfactory accounts we received of the state of affairs at Swan River, — we sailed for that place on the morning of the 12th of October. It should be raentioned, that Lieutenant Grey, hearing it would be irapossible for him to obtain a suitable vessel at Swan River, hired a small schooner from this port, and sailed, with his party, for Hanover Bay, on the north-west coast of Australia, the day after our departure. His subsequent perils, wander- ISLAND OF AMSTERDAM. 47 ings, and adventures having been fully described in his own published account, I need do no more here than allude to them. We encountered a good deal of heavy weather, shifting winds, and consequently irregular seas, during our run to Swan River ; and owing to the deep state of our loaded little vessel, her decks were alraost constantly flooded. For raany days we had never less than an inch and a half of water on them all over ; and this extra weight, in our already over burthened craft, did not, of course, add to her live liness ; however, she struggled on, and on the 1st of Noveraber bore us in sight of the Island of Arasterdara, and in the afternoon past to the south ward of it, sufficiently near to deterraine its position. The sumrait of the Island, which has rather a peaked appearance, we found to be 2,760 feet high, in latitude 38° 53' South, longitude 77° 37' East of Greenwich. It is singular that though this Island, which is almost a finger post for ships bound from the Cape either to New Holland or India, has been so long known to all navigators of these seas, its true longitude should have been till now unascertained. The western side presented the appearance of a broken down crater, nor indeed can there be any reason to doubt its volcanic origin. Light brown was the pervading colour upon the sides of the island, and appeared to be caused by stunted bushes and grass. The southern island, St. Paul's, affords a good anchorage in 21 fathoms. 48 ST. Paul's. about midway on its eastern side, latitude 38° 42', and is in every way preferable to the spot chosen for that purpose by Vlaming in 1764, on the south-east side of Amsterdam, where landing is never very easy, and generally quite impracticable. The well ascertained fact, that water is found in abundance at St. Paul's, leads to a very fair in ference, that in this humid atmosphere, and with a much greater elevation, the same essential com modity may be met with at Amsterdam ; but cer tainly at St, Paul's, and most probably at Amster dam, the rugged nature of the travelling over these volcanic islands, would render useless any attempt to water a ship. The following table, though it may not possess much interest for the general reader, will not be without its value in the eyes of my nautical bre thren : it shews the increase of variation since 1747 :— A.D. WESTERLY VARIATION. From Horsburg's \ • • a Directory ) • • • 4 ' ( 1793 . . 20 H.M.S, Beagle . 1837 , , . 21 As these islands lie in the same meridian, the longitude given above of Amsterdam, will equally apply to St. Paul's : they are admirably situated for connecting the meridians of Africa and Australia. We lost sight of Amsterdam towards evening, and flattered ourselves that we were also leaving the ROTTENEST ISLAND. 49 bad weather behind. The sky more settled ; the sea less high ; and the barometer rising : such in dications, however, cannot be implicitly trusted in this boisterous climate ; and shortly after dark, having shipped a very heavy sea, we rounded too for the night. The constant set of the huge follow ing seas, carried our little vessel rauch faster to the eastward than could be easily credited, till proved by actual observation. During the last three or four days, we had run upwards of 195 railes daily by the observations, being from twenty to thirty more each day than appeared from the reckoning. We made Rottenest Island on the morning of Wednesday, Nov. 15th ; and in the afternoon of the same day, anchored in Gage's Road, Swan River. Our position at midnight, the night before, made us about 30 miles from the raain land, when we had the wind from the eastward, getting round again towards noon to south and by west. This may be some guide to the limit of the land wind, and as such I record the fact. During the three days pre vious to our making the land, we experienced a northerly current of one knot per hour. We trie'd during the same period for soundings, with nearly 200 fathoms, but in vain. We passed along the north shore of Rottenest at the distance of a mile and a half, closing with it as we got to the eastward, where it is not so rocky. The north shore should not be approached within a mile. As we were opening out the bay VOL. I. E 50 SWAN RIVER SETTLEMENT, on the north-east end of the island, we passed over a rocky patch, with, from appearance, not more than three fathoms on it, it is small, and we had 14 fathoms close to it. This patch is about one mile N. by W. from the north-west point of the bay. Off this point is a low rocky islet ; and when on the shoal, we could just make out the white sandy beach in the bay open between it and the point. The western points of the island are all shut in by the north point ; therefore, keeping them open, will always enable the navigator to give this dangerous rock* a wide berth. The Swan River Settlement, which is a portion of the colony of Western Australia, was founded in August 1829, under the auspices of the Colonial Office, Captain Stirling being the first Lieutenant- Governor. Freemantle, at the entrance of Swan River, is the sea port ; and Perth, situate about nine miles inland, the seat of Government : Guilford and York are the other chief places in the colony. There is nothing very particularly inviting in the first appearance of Western Australia ; dull green- looking downs, backed by a slightly undulating range of hills, rising to nearly 2,000 feet high, are the chief natural features of the prospect. Free mantle, of which it was wittily said by the quarter master of one of His Majesty's ships who visited the place, "You might run it through an hourglass * Now called Roe's Patch. FREEMANTLE. 51 in a day," is but a collection of low white houses scattered over the scarce whiter sand. The only con spicuous landmark visible in approaching the ancho rage is the Jail : rather a singular pharos for a settlement in Australia, which boasts its uncon taminated state. 'This building I afterwards induced the Governor to have white-washed, and it now forms an excellent mark to point out the river, as well as the town,* Shortly after our arrival, I was introduced to the Governor, Sir James Stirling ; he, and all those here best qualified to judge, joined in regretting that Lieutenant Grey had not decided to come on with us. The accounts we heard of the country and the natives gave us every reason to entertain but slender hopes of his success. Sir Jaraes and Mr. Roe, the Surveyor-General, appeared to coin cide with the general opinion that a large inland lake will ultimately be discovered. They had ques tioned many of the natives about it, who all as serted its existence, and pointed in a south-easterly direction to indicate its position. Their notions of distance are, to say the least, exceedingly rude ; with them every thing is " far away, far away." The size of this water the natives describe by saying, that if a boy commenced walking round it, by the time he finished his task he would have becorae an old man! After all may not this be * A large patch of white sand, on the coast, about three miles to the northward of Swan Eiver, also serves as a landmark. E 2 52 AN INLAND LAKE, the great Australian Bight that these natives have heard of, for none we raet in Western Australia pre tended to have seen it ? They derive their infor mation from the eastern tribes, and under such circumstances it raust at least be considered ex tremely vague.* The Surveyor-General had lately returned from an exploring journey to the eastward of the capital, and reported that there existed no reasonable pro bability of extending the colony in that direction : he strongly recommended us to proceed at once to the north-west coast, and return again to Swan River to recruit ; saying that we should find the heat there too great to remain for a longer period. This course Captain Wickham, after due delibera tion, resolved to adopt, and accordingly all the stores, not absolutely required, were forthwith landed, and the ship made in every respect as airy as possible. The 25th November was fixed for our departure, when most unfortunately Captain Wick ham, while on his way to Perth, was attacked with a severe dysentery, and continued so ill that he could not be brought to the ship till the end of Deceraber, The most that could be effected was done to improve this unavoidable delay ; and our * This much talked of lake, which it was the assumed labour of a life to circumambulate, was discovered in January 1843, by Messrs. Landor and Lefroy.who found it about 100 miles S.S.B. from Beverley. It is quite salt, called Dambeling, and about fifteen miles long by seven and a half broad ! APPROACH TO PERTH. 53 tidal observations, before commenced, were more diligently pursued. We found the greatest rise only thirty-one inches, and here, as elsewhere on the Australian coast, we observed the reraarkable phenoraenon of only one tide in the twenty-four hours 1 Surveying operations were also entered on, connecting Rottenest Island with the mainland; the dangers which surround it, as well as those which lie between its shores and the coast, were discovered and laid down : this survey, of great importance to the interests of shipping in these waters, was ultimately completed on our subsequent visits to Swan River, That arid appearance which flrst meets the settler on his arrival, and to which allusion has already been made,- cannot but prove disheartening to hira : particularly if, as is generally the case, his own sanguine expectations of a second Paradise have been heightened by the interested descrip tions of land jobbers and eraigration agents. How ever, when he ascends the river towards the capital, this feeling of despondency will gradually wear away ; its various windings bring, to his eager and anxious eye, many a bright patch of park-like wood land ; while the river, expanding as he proceeds, till the beautiful estuary of Melville water opens out before him, becomes really a magnificent fea ture in the landscape ; and the boats, passing and repassing upon its smooth and glassy bosom, give the animation of industry, and suggest all the cheer- 54 NARROW ESCAPE OF THE FIRST SETTLERS. ful anticipations of ultimate success to the resolute adventurer. From about the centre of this lake like piece of water, the eye first rests upon the capital of Western Australia, a large straggling village, partly concealed by the abrupt termination of a woody ridge, and standing upon a picturesque slope on the right bank of the river, thirteen miles from its mouth. The distant range of the Darling mountains supplies a splendid back ground to the picture, and the refreshing sea breeze which curls the surface of Melville water every afternoon, adds to the health, no less than comfort, of the inhabi tants. The former inconvenience, caused by the shoal approach, and which rendered landing at low water a most uncorafortable operation, has now been remedied by the construction of a jetty. Like all the Australian rivers with which we are yet acquainted, the Swan is subject to sudden and tremendous floods, which inundate the corn lands in its vicinity, and sweep away all opposing obstacles with irresistible irapetuosity. The first settlers had a most providential escape from a calamity of this kind : they had originally selected for the site of their new city, a low lying piece of land, which, during the first winter after their arrival, was visited with one of these strange and unexplained invasions from the swelling stream : had the deluge been delayed for another year, these luckless inhabitants of a new world would have shared the fate of those to whom Noah preached in vain ; but, SINGULAR FLIGHT OF STRANGE BIRDS. 55 warned in time, they chose some safer spot, from whence, in future, they and their descendants raay safely contemplate the awful grandeur of similar occurrences, and thankfully profit by the fertility and abundance which succeed to such wholesale irrigation. During this, our first visit, I had no opportunity of penetrating, into the country further than the Darling range : in journeying thither, we passed through Guilford, a township on the banks ofthe Swan, about seven miles north-east from Perth, and four from the foot of the raountains. It stands upon a high part of the alluvial flat fringing the river, and which extends from half to one mile from it on either side. The rich quality of the soil may be iraagined frora the fact, that, in 1843, after thirteen years of successive cropping, it produced a more abundant harvest than it had done at first, without any artificial aid from manures. A singular flight of strange birds, was noticed at Guilford about the year 1833, during the time when the corn was green : they arrived in an innuraerable host, and were so tarae as to be easily taken by hand. In general appearance they reserabled the land-rail, but were larger, and quite as heavy on the wing. They disappeared in the same myste rious manner as they arrived, and have never since repeated their visit. Were these birds visitors from the interior, or had they just arrived at the end of a migratory journey from sorae distant country ? It is to be regretted that no speciraen of them was 56 THE DARLING RANGE, to be obtained, as it might have helped to clear an interesting subject from doubt. The change in ascending this range, from the alluvium near its base, to the primitive formation of which it is itself composed, is very remarkable. Shells still common on the adjacent coasts were met with 14 feet below the surface, near the foot of the range, by one of the colonists when sinking a well. In the same locality deposits of sand may be seen, having that particular wavy appearance which is always noticed upon the sea beach. These appear ances, as well as the general aspect of the adja cent coyntry, seem to justify the conclusion I arrived at while on the spot, that the land which now intervenes between the mountains and the shore, is a comparatively recent conquest frora the sea. The character of this land may be thus described : — The first three miles from the coast is occupied with ridges of hills, from 100 to 200 feet high, of calcareous limestone formation, cropping out in such innumerable points and odd shapes as to be almost impassable. Some of these lumps resemble a large barnacle ; both luraps and points are covered with long, coarse grass, and thus con cealed, become a great hindrance to the pedestrian, who is constantly wounded by them. To these ridges succeed sandy forest land and low hills, except on the banks of the rivulets, where a belt of alluvial soil is to be found. The Darling range traverses the whole of Western Australia in a direction, singular CLIFF, 57 generally speaking, north and south. It appears to subside towards the north, and its greatest elevation is nearly 2,000 feet. The cliffs of the coast at the mouth of Swan River, have a raost singular appear ance, as though covered with thousands of roots, twisted together into a species of net-work. A similar curiosity is to be seen on Bald Head, in King George's Sound, so often alluded to by forraer navigators, and by thera raistaken either for coral, or petrified trees standing where they originally grew. Bald Head was visited by Mr, Darwin, in company with Captain Fitz-Roy, in February 1836, and his opinions upon the agencies of forraation, so exactly coincide with those to which I attribute the appearances at Arthur's Head, that I cannot do better than borrow his words. He says, — page 537, vol, 3, " According to our views, the rock was formed by the wind heaping up calcareous sand, during which process, branches and roots of trees, and land-shells were enclosed, the mass being after wards consolidated by the percolation of rain water. When the wood had decayed, lime was washed into the cylindrical cavities, and became hard, sorae tiraes even like that in a stalactite. The weather is now wearing away the softer rock, andin consequence the casts of roots and branches project above the surface : their resemblance to the stumps of a dead shrubbery was so exact, that, before touching them, we were sometimes at a loss to know which were 58 THE NATIVES, composed of wood, and which of calcareous matter,"* We were much struck during our stay by the contrast between the natives here, and those we had seen on the Beagle's former voyage at King George's Sound. The comparison was wholly in favour of those living within the influence of their civilized fellow- men : a fact which may surprise some of my readers, but for which, notwithstanding, I am quite pre pared to vouch, A better quality, and more certain supply of food, are the causes to which this supe riority ought to be attributed : they are indeed exceedingly fond of wheaten bread, and work hard for the settlers, in cutting wood and carrying water, in order to obtain it. Individually they appear peaceable, inoffensive, and well-disposed, and, under proper management, make very good servants ; but when they congregate together for any length of time, they are too apt to relapse into the vices of savage life. Among the many useful hints, for which we were indebted to Mr. Roe, was that of taking a native with us to the northward; and, accordingly, after some trouble, we shipped an intelligent young man, named Miago ; he proved, in some respects, exceedingly useful, and made an excellent gun-room waiter. We noticed that, like most of the natives, he was deeply scarred, and I learned from him that this is done to recommend * For more exact details the reader should consult Mr. Dar win's volume on " Volcanic Islands." ANECDOTES OF THE NATIVES. 59 them to the notice of the ladies. Like all savages, they are treacherous, — for uncivilized raan has no abstract respect for truth, and consequently deceit, whether spoken or acted, seeras no baseness in his eyes. I heard an anecdote at Perth that bears upon this subject : — A native of the name of Tonquin asked a settler, who lived some distance in the interior, permission to spend the night in his kitchen, of which that evening another native was also an inmate. It seeras that some hate, either personal, or the consequences of a quarrel between their different tribes, existed in the mind of Tonquin towards his hapless fellow lodger ; and in the night he speared him through the heart, and then very quietly laid down to sleep ! Of course in the morn ing no little stir took place. Tonquin was accused, but stoutly denied the charge. So satisfied, how ever, was the owner of the house of the guilt of the real culprit, that had he not made his escape, he would have been executed " red hand," — as the border wardens used to say, — by the man, the sanctity of whose roof-tree he had thus profaned. Tonquin afterwards declared that he never slept for nearly a fortnight, being dogged from place to place by the footsteps of the avengers of blood. He escaped, however, with his life, though worn almost to a shadow by constant anxiety. When I saw him some years afterwards, I thought him the finest looking native I had ever seen, but he was apparently, as those who knew him best reported 60 superstitions. hira to be, insane. If not the memory of his crime, and the consequent remorse which it entailed upon hira, perhaps the fugitive life he was compelled to lead in order to avoid the wrath of human retribu tion, had been used to make manifest the anger of Heaven for this breach of one of those first great laws of human society, which are almost as much instincts of our nature as revelations from the Creator to the creatures of his will ! The natives have a superstitious horror of ap- proachiug the graves of the dead, of whom they ' never like to speak, and when induced to do so, always whisper, A settler, residing in a danger ous part of the colony, had two soldiers stationed with him as a guard : upon one occasion five natives rushed in at a moment when the soldiers were un prepared for their reception, and a terrible struggle ensued : the soldiers, however, managed, while on the ground, to shoot two of them, and bayonetted the remaining three. The five were afterwards buried before the door, nor could a more perfect safeguard have been devised ; no thought even of revenge for their corarades would afterwards induce any of the tribe to pass that fearful boundary. Their most curious superstition, however, re mains to be recorded ; it is the opinion they con fidently entertain, and which seems universally diffused among them, that the white people are their former fellow countrymen, who in such altered guise revisit the world after death, Miago assured me that the E¥IL spirit. 61 this was the current opinion, and my own personal observation subsequently confirmed his statement. At Perth, one of the settlers, frora his presumed likeness to a defunct member of the tribe of the Murray River, was visited by his supposed kindred twice every year, though in so doing they passed through sixty miles of what was not unfrequently an eneray's country. Their religious opinions, so far as I have been able to obtain any information on the subject, are exceed ingly vague and indefinite. That they do not re gard the grave as man's final resting place, may, however, be fairly concluded, from the superstition I have just alluded to, and that they believe in in visible and superior powers — objects of dread and fear, rather than veneration or love — has been tes tified in Captain Grey's most interesting chapter upon " Native Custoras," and confirraed by ray own experience. I used sometimes to question Miago upon this point, and from him I learned their belief in the existence of an evil spirit, haunt ing dark caverns, wells, and places of mystery and gloom, and called Jinga. I heard from a settler that upon one occassion, a native travelling with him, refused to go to the well at night from fear of this malevolent being ; supposed to keep an especial guardianship over freshwater, and to be raost terrible and most potent in the hours of darkness. Miago had never seen this object of his fears, but upon the authority of the elders of his tribe, he described 62 THE EVIL SPIRIT, its visible presence as that of a huge many-folded serpent ; and in the night, when the tall forest trees moaned and creaked in the fitful wind, he would shrink terrified by the solemn and mysterious sounds, which then do predispose the mind to superstitious fears, and tell how, at such a time, his countrymen kindle a fire to avert the actual pre sence ofthe evil spirit, and wait around it — chant ing their uncouth and rhythmical incantations — with fear and trembling, for the coming dawn. I have preserved these anecdotes here, because I can vouch for their authenticity, and though individually unimportant, they may serve to throw additional light upon the manners, customs, and traditions of the Aborigines of Australia ; but to all really interested in the subject, I would re commend a perusal of Captain Grey's second vo lume. I have as yet neither space nor materials to attempt any detailed account of the customs, super stitions, or condition of this strange people ; but it would be impossible to pass them by quite un noticed : nor can the voyager, whose chief object is to make their native land a field for the exertions of British enterprise, be wholly indifferent to the manner in which our dominion may affect them. The history of almost every colony, founded by European energy, has been one fearful catalogue of crime; and though by the side of the Spanish, Dutch, and Portuguese, English adventurers seem gentle and benevolent, still cruelty and oppression FUTURE PROSPECTS. 63 have too often disgraced our name and faith. Thank Heaven, with many a doubt as to the time that must elapse ere that glad day shall come, I can look onward with confidence to a period — I trust not far remote, — when throughout the length and breadth of Australia, Christian civilization shall attest that the clairas upon England's benevolence have been nobly acknowledged ! CHAPTER IV. FROM SWAN RIVER TO ROEBUCK BAY. SAIL FROM gage's ROAD — SEARCH FOR A BANK — CUR RENTS AND SOUNDINGS — houtman's ABROLHOS FRUIT LESS SEARCH FOR Ritchie's reef — indications of a SQUALL DEEP SEA SOUNDINGS — ATMOSPHERIC TEMPE RATURE — FISH — A SQUALL ANCHOR OFF THE MOUTH OF ROEBUCK BAY — A HEAVY SQUALL DRIVEN FROM OUR ANCHORAGE — CAPE VILLARET — ANCHOR IN ROE BUCK BAY — EXCURSION ON SHORE VISIT FROM THE NATIVES — MR. BYNOe's ACCOUNT OP THEM — A STRANGER AMONG THEM — CAPTAIN GREY's ACCOUNT OF AN "ALMOST white" race in AUSTRALIA— BIRDS, SNAKES, AND TURTLE — MOVE THE SHIP — MIAGO, AND THE "BLACK FELLOWs" THE WICKED MEN OF THE NORTH — CLOUDS OF MAGELLAN ¦^FACE OF THE COUNTRY NATIVES — HEAT AND SICKNESS — MIAGO ON SHORE — MR. USBORNE WOUNDED — FAILURE IN ROEBUCK BAY — NATIVE NOTIOJSTS. The solemnities of Christmas, and the festal celebration of the New Year, beneath a cloudless sky, and with the therraoraeter at 90, concluded our first visit to Swan River. We left our anchorage in Gage's Road on Thursday, January 4th, devot ing several hours to sounding between Rottenest and the raain. We bore away at 4, p.m. to search for a bank said to exist about fifteen miles north CURRENTS AND SOUNDINGS, 65 from the middle of Rottenest Island, having from twenty to twenty-two fathoms over it. Near the position assigned we certainly shoaled our water from twenty-eight to twenty-four fathoms, but no other indication of a bank was to be found. Satisfied that we had now no further reason for delay, we kept away N.W. with a fresh southerly wind, and the glad oraen of a brilliant sunset. January 5. — We were rather surprised to find by our observation at noon, no indication of a northerly current, though yesterday when becalmed between Rottenest and the raain we were drifted to the northward at the rate of nearly two knots per hour. We sounded regularly every four hours, but found no bottora at 200 fathoras : tbe wind during the raorning was light from S.S.W. but during the night we had it fresh from S.E. January 6. — We passed, at midnight, within 60 miles of the position assigned in the chart to the low coral group known as Houtman's Abrolhos,* and again sounded unsuccessfully with 200 fathoms. We continued steering a northerly course up to the 9th, keeping within from 60 to 80 miles distance of the coast, and repeating our deep-sea soundings every six hours without success. The wind during each day was moderate from the S.S.W. and S, by W,, freshening during the night * Subsequent observations pkced these islands 30 miles more to the eastward than the position there assigned them, Our track, therefore, was really 90 miles from them. VOL. I, F 66 INDICATIONS OF A SQUALL. from South, and S. by E. ; a heavy swell was its con stant companion, and the barometer fell to 29.75. On the morning of the 9th, being in the parallel of North-west Cape, our course was altered to N.E. by E. ; it blew hard during the night, and we had a disagreeable sea ; but, as usual, it moderated again towards the morning. We had shaped a course to make a reef in lat. 20° 17', and naraed after its discoverer. Lieutenant Ritchie, R.N. ; but owing to its being situated, as we afterwards found, half a degree to the eastward of its assigned position in the charts, we did not see it. At 4, A. M,, and with 195 fathoms, we reached a bottom of sand, broken shells, and coral, being then about 80 miles N, N.E. from Tremouille Island, the nearest land. Steering E, by N, ^ N. for 31 miles, brought us to our noon position in lat. 19° 20' S., long. 116° 16' E„ and into a depth of 120 fathoms, with the same kind of bottoms. S.S.W., 17 miles from our morning position. Cap tain King had 83 and 85 fathoms; from this we may suppose the edge of the bank of soundings, ex tending off this part of the coast, to be very steep. These soundings, together with those of Captain King, as above, may give some idea of the nature and extent of this bank, which seeras to be a conti nuation of the flat extending N.N.E. 40 railes, con necting Barrow and Tremouille Islands with the main: its outer edge being kept heaped up thus DEEP SEA SOUNDINGS. 67 steeply by the constant action of the current sweep ing round the North-west Cape. We continued steering E. and by N. ^ N., and at sunset, 14 miles from our noon position, the water had deepened to 145 fathoms, bottom a fine white sand and powdered shells. Before we were 50 miles from our noon position, we could find no bottom with 200 fathoms. January 12. — We raade but slow progress during the night, and felt delay the more tedious from the eager anxiety with which we desired sight of the land where our duties were to begin in earnest. We were not successful with our soundings till 6 p.m., when we had the same kind of bottora as before described, with II7 fathoras: 15 miles E, by N. \ N, from our noon position, which was 220 miles W. by S. from Roebuck Bay : 30 miles in the same direction from our noon position, we shoaled our water to 85 fathoms, the ground retaining the same distinctive character. We had the wind from S.W. to S.E. during the afternoon, but at 6 p.m. it chopped round to N.N.W., when, too, for the first time, we perceived lightning to the S.E, — Barometer 29,92 ; thermoraeter 85. January 13. — The preceding indications of the coming squall, which had given us full time for preparation, were realized about one o'clock this morning, when it reached us, though only mode rately, from S.E, It was preceded by the rise and F 2 68 atmospheric temperature. rapid advance of a black cloud in that quarter, just as Captain King has described. At noon we were in lat, 18°26'S., long, 119°18'E„ and in soundings of 75 fathoms, fine white sand, broken shells, and fragments of dead coral. There was only a slight variation in the atmospheric temperature of two degrees during the twenty-four hours,— the highest in the day being 85, and the lowest at night 83. The water was very smooth, but as night approached it thundered and lightened heavily and vividly, and most of us noticed and suffered from a particularly oppressive and over powering state of the atmosphere, which the heat indicated by the thermometer was by no means sufficiently intense to account for. January 14. — During the last twenty-four hours we had made but 51 miles progress in the di rection of Roebuck Bay ; our noon observations placed us in lat. 18° 25' S., long. 120° 13' E„ being about 80 miles from the nearest land. We ob tained soundings at 72 fathoms, — yellow sand and broken shells. During the afternoon, it being nearly a calm, we found ourselves surrounded by quantities of fish, about the size of the mackarel, and apparently in pursuit of a number of small and almost transparent members of the finny tribe, not larger than the minnow. We sounded at sunset, and found bottom at 52 fathoms, which shoaled by half-past ten to 39. The circumstance, however, occasioned no surprise, as heavy squall. 69 we had run S.S.E. 25 miles, in a direct line for that low portion of the coast from which the flat we were running over extends. The first part of the night we had the wind at N.N.E,, the breeze steady, and the water as smooth as glass ; but as the watch wore on, quick flashes of forked lightning, and the suspicious appearance of gathering clouds in the S.E,, gave warning of the unwelcome approach of a heavy squall. At eleven we lay becalmed for ten minutes between two contending winds ; that from the S,, however, presently prevailed, and shifting to the S.E,, blew hard : meantime, a dark mass of clouds in the E,S,E. appeared suddenly to assume the form of a deep- caverned archway, and raoved rapidly towards us ; in a few rainutes, the ship was heeling raajestically to the passing gust, the lightning flashed vividly and rapidly around us, alternately concealing and revealing the troubled surface of the foara-covered sea, while the thunder rolled heavily over our heads. The squall was heavy while it lasted, coraraencing at E.S.E. and ending at E.N.E. It was accora panied by heavy rain. Towards the end of the middle watch, the weather began to assurae a raore settled appearance, and we had a moderate breeze from the north ; but between five and six o'clock, a.m., it shifted suddenly by the W. to S.S.E., and became light. We sounded repeatedly during the night in from 32 to 35 fathoms, the same kind of bottom as before ; which we found agree very 70 DRIVEN FROM THE ANCHORAGE. well with those reported in the account ofthe French expedition under Captain Baudin. From the specimens of the squalls we experienced the last two nights, and which appear to be pretty regular in their visitation, I am inclined to believe they do not extend any considerable distance from the land. They give the seaman ample warning of their approach ; yet, since they always come on in the night, when their violence cannot be properly estimated, the ship's head should (if circumstances permit) be kept to the westward (W,N,W,) until the short-lived fury of the storra has exhausted itself. January 15. — We progressed with light and variable airs through the day, gradually shoaling our water till nine, p.m., when the anchor was dropped in 14 fathoras, having previously passed over a rocky ledge of apparently coral forraation, in 13|^ fathoras. The land over the south point of Roebuck Bay bore E.S.E., about 17 railes distant ; but we did not see it till the following morning. The evening wore a threatening aspect, though not apparently so much to be dreaded as that of yesterday ; however, we were disagreeably out in our anticipations, for about three o'clock, a.m., (^January 16,) a heavy squall burst on us, veering frora E.S.E. to E.N.E., broke our best bower anchor, and drove us half a mile out to sea, when the remaining fluke hooked a rock and brought us up. It rained and blew till day-light, then we were cape VILLARET. 71 again favoured with fine weather, and light westerly winds. The land was now in sight. Cape Villaret being the most northerly point, and bearing E.S.E. sorae 16 or 17 miles. The hillock upon this cape, and two other huraraocks, lying to the southward, formed the only prorainent features of the low land in sight. At this anchorage the flood tide set E, and by N,, frora one to one and a half knots per hour. Before weighing I procured a specimen of live coral from the depth of 1 1 fathoms. Light airs, and the aid of the flood tide, carried us into the centre of Roebuck Bay, where we carae to an anchor in 7 fathoras. Cape Villaret bearing S. by W. i W. about 10 miles. The fall of the tide here was no less than 18 feet. As we closed with the land, I had a good oppor tunity of speculating upon its appearance, and the probability of our investigation confirming or con tradicting the opinion entertained by Captains King and Dampier, that a channel would be found to connect Roebuck Bay with an opening behind Buc- caniers Archipelago, thus making Dampier's Land an island. I confess, my own irapressions at first sight differed from that of those high authorities, nor did a nearer examination shake my opinion. Cape Villaret, a short ridge lying E. and W,, and about 150 feet high, was still the raost remarkable object ; the sand on its side having a curious red appearance. From the mast-head the land was not 72 VISIT FROM THE NATIVES. visible to the eastward for the space of one point of the compass; yet its level character, and the shoalness of the water, led alike to the opinion that no such comraunication as supposed would be found to exist. January 17. — Collecting materials for the chart was the chief occupation of the day. Mr. Usborne discovered a high water inlet in the south shore of the bay, five miles east of Cape Villaret, having a dry bank of sand before it at low water. While the party were on shore, they were visited by six of the natives, a larger race of men than those on the south coast, naked, with the excep tion of a grass mat round the waist, and the hair straight and tied up behind, seemingly ignorant of the use of the throwing stick, but carrying spears ill-shapen and unbarbed. One of them had a kiley, or bomerang, and each carried a rude hatchet of stone. None of them had suffered the loss of the front tooth, which, with some tribes, is a dis tinction of manhood. When asked by signs for fresh water, of which our party saw no traces, they pointed to the S.E. ; a circumstance which I record, as it may possibly be of some service to future explorers. As the boat was leaving, one of them, supposing, I presurae, that they were out of our reach, and might therefore attack us with impunity, threw a stone at the boat, which luckily did no harm, though hurled with great dexterity and force. Upon this, a pistol was discharged over their heads, race, 73 when they retired with far greater rapidity than they had advanced. Mr. Usborne mentions, in an account of this in terview (published in the Nautical Magazine for 1840, page 576), that one of the party differed in several physical characteristics frora the rest. After describing thera in general terras as being frora five feet six, to five feet nine inches tall, broad shoulders, long and slight legs, large heads, and overhang ing brows, — he continues, " There was an exception in the youngest, who appeared of an entirely dif ferent race : his skin was a copper colour, while the others were black ; his head was not so large, and raore rounded ; the overhanging brow was lost ; the shoulders more of an European turn ; and the body and legs much better proportioned ; in fact, he raight be considered a well made man, at our standard of figure." A similar instance of meeting with one of a tribe, not apparently belonging to the same subdivision of the human family as those by whora he was surrounded, is recorded by Captain Grey, who speaks indeed of the existence of a dis tinct race, "totally different" (i.e. from theother aborigines^ "and alraost white." I cannot say that I have myself encountered any of these " almost white" raen, whose existence, as a distinct race. Captain Grey appears to have rather hastily ad mitted ; such variation in form and colour as Mr. Usborne alludes to, may, however, be accounted for bythe intercourse which the natives on the north coast hold frora time to time with the Malays. 74 THE NATIVE MIAGO, Several very large black martins, with white or grey heads, were hovering over the ship this morn ing ; and raany flights of small white tern, and a bird, commonly called the razor-bill, passed and re passed the ship every morning and evening, flying from the bay to seaward, and returning at sunset. Two water snakes were shot alongside the ship during the day ; the largest measured four feet, and was of a dirty yellow colour, A good sized fish was taken from the stomach of one of them. Their fangs were particularly long, and very rauch flat tened, having no cutting edge whatever, Sorae turtle also passed the ship to-day, and a day or two afterwards we were fortunate enough to shoot one which weighed 160 pounds : he had ample justice done to his raerits. It was high water at 1,50 p.m,, and the streara changed at the sarae tirae, a circumstance conclusively demon strating that we were not anchored in a strait, January 18. — We got under weigh in the morn ing, but from the shallowness of the water anchored within a mile east of our former position. The native Miago, who had accompanied us from Swan River, was most earnest in his inquiries about the savages, as soon as he understood that sorae of thera had been seen. He appeared de lighted that these "black fellows," as he calls them, have no throwing sticks ; for though at times exceedingly valiant in conversation, and very anxious to kill one of the men, and carry off one of clouds of MAGELLAN, 75 their 'gins,' or wives, — the great end, aim, and ambition of all Australian force or policy — he yet evidently holds these north men in great dread. They are, according to his account, " Bad men— eat men — Perth raen tell rae so : Perth men say, Miago, you go on shore very little, plenty Quibra men* go, you go." These instructions appear to have been very carefully pressed upon him by his associates, and certainly they had succeeded in in spiring him with the utmost dread of this division of his fellow countrymen, which all his boasting about killing some of them and taking one of their women as proof of his prowess, back to Perth, failed to con ceal. He gave me this evening a new reason to account for the appearance of the two sraall clouds called after the celebrated Magellan, in the follow ing words: — " You see," said he, pointing up to the sky, " little sraoke." I assented at once ; for certainly the clouds have very rauch the appearance of that to which he compared them : he then con tinued, — " Perth man tell me, long, long time back, he make fire, smoke go far away up, far away, stop and never go away more." Miago evidently be lieved that his friend at Perth had really lighted the fire, the smoke of which had thus gone up " far away, far away," to " stop and never go away more," I can easily enough comprehend why the assertion might be made, and possibly without any intention to deceive upon the part of the asserter, who may * i. e. Men of the ship. 76 " USELESS BAY." first have seen the clouds after watching the ascent of his own fire smoke through the still air, in the same direction ; but that it should be implicitly believed, as it evidently was by Miago, upon the mere word of his fellow countryman, did, I own, astonish me ; and seeras to indicate that, in their social intercourse with each other, they raay have more regard for truth than I was at first inclined to give them credit for. Mr. Usborne was away to-day in one of the boats, seeking a berth for the ship higher up the bay : upon his return he reported that he had been over the banks before mentioned, upon which he found the water very shoal : the face of the country he described as exceedingly low, with mud lumps not unlike ant-hills,* scattered here and there over the face ofit, and several clusters of small trees. Natives also had been seen, though no opportunity of ap proaching them had occurred, , as the moraent their restless eyes, or quick ears, detected our approach, they most rapidly retreated. January 19, — Two boats were despatched this morning, under Mr, Usborne's comraand, to ex amine the eastern part of what I think may be named very properly " Useless Bay." This would have been my duty, had I not unfortunately been taken ill the evening of the preceding day : the symptoms were violent head-ache, and a disordered state of the storaach, caused, the surgeon says, * Subsequent experience literally verified this opinion. HEAT AND SICKNESS. 77 by the oppressive and overpowering heat which we have experienced for the last few days, and the general effects of which seera raore distressing to the ship's company than is often experienced under a higher range of the thermometer ; the deprivation of all power, or energy, is one of its most unpleasant consequences, I am inclined to think that one reason for its great and wearying effect upon most of us, — indeed, more or less, all are suffering frora it, — is that there is hardly any variation in temperature during the whole twenty-four hours : it soraetiraes does not araount to more than two or three degrees. Captain Wickham and the surgeon visited an inlet near the ship to-day, which had indeed been looked into, but not explored before. They proceeded to the south-west for about three miles, through a very tortuous channel, dry in many parts at low water, thickly studded with raangrove bushes, over and through which the tide raade its way at high water, giving to that part of the country the appearance of an extensive morass. A slightly elevated table- topped range of land was seen frora time to time, some eight or nine railes to the south-east, but in its highest elevation did not reach 200 feet. The apparent width of the inlet in no way dirainished so far as the exploring party exarained it ; and this fact, coupled with the general character of the country hereabouts, induces me to suppose that the periodical return of the spring-tide, floods the greater part of the coast between the sea shore and 78 miago on SHORE. the base of the range I have alluded to, Vampyres of a very large kind were here met with, the furthest south we had seen them. Miago had accompanied this party on shore, though he evidently shewed "no great devotion to the deed." They saidhe watched everything, aye, every bush, with the most scrutinizing gaze : his head appeared to turn upon a pivot, so constantly was it in motion, with all that restless watchfulness for which the savage is ever reraarkable. The heat to-day either exceeded an average, or else perhaps, as an invalid, I noticed it raore closely : — Degrees. In the shade, on shore, it was . . i 98 Do. on board , , . . . 90 Pulling off in the boats , . . . 118 During the day, it fluctuated, between 88 & 94 A breeze frora seaward blew the greater part of each night from W.S.W., hauling round to south in the morning. January20. — Ournoon observation to-day enabled us to fix the latitude of Cape Villaret 18° 18' 50", which precisely agrees with that assigned to it by Captain King. In the afternoon the boats returned with Mr. Usborne, who had been unfortunately very severely wounded by the accidental discharge of a musket. It appeared that after a careful exaraination of the bay, which ended as I had anticipated, in proving that no opening to the interior would be found in MR. USBORNE WOUNDED. 79 it, the party were returning to the boats, when, from the accidental explosion of a musket in the hand of one of the party, a ball entered Mr, Usborne's right side, near the spine, between the lower rib and hip bone, making an exit in a line with the navel. This truly unfortunate circurastance — which for some weeks deprived the expedition of the services of a most valuable officer — occurred about 10 o'clock A.M., but the time and trouble of carrying the sufferer through the raud to the boats, and then pulling sorae 15 railes, made it near 6 o'clock before he was on board and under the charge of Mr. Bynoe : we were all shocked to see our companion lifted appa rently lifeless into the vessel he had so recently quitted full of health, and animated by an anxious desire to do all in his power to conduce to the general success ; but were ere long assured by Mr. Bynoe, whose personal or professional merits need no eulogium from me — and who iraraediately and most carefully attended our wounded messmate— that the best results might be reasonably hoped for : a prediction shortly afterwards happily verified. At the time this unlucky accident occurred, sorae twenty natives rushed from the concealment whence they had been doubtless watching all the proceedings of the party, as though they designed to bear a part in what probably seemed to them, as poor Usborne went down, an approaching fray : however, the sight of the two boats in the distance, which upon deploy ing they had full in view, deterred thera from acting 80 LOADED PISTOLS LEFT BEHIND. upon any hostile intentions, supposing such to have existed in their minds. The accident, however, and their sudden appearance, could only serve addition ally to flurry the little party who had to convey their disabled officer to a place of safety, and Mr. Help- man, who may well be pardoned the want of his usual self-possession at such a moment, left behind a pair of loaded pistols. They would puzzle the savages greatly of course, but I hope no ill conse quences ensued : if they began pulling them about, or put them in the fire, the better to separate the wood and iron, two or three poor wretches might be killed or mairaed for life, and their first recol lections of the " Quibra men," as Miago calls us, would naturally be any thing but favourable. Thus disastrously terrainated our examination of Roebuck Bay, in which the cheering reports of former navigators, no less than the tenor of our hydrographical instructions had induced us to anti cipate the discovery of some great water communi cation with the interior of this vast Continent. A raost thorough and careful search — in which every one seeraed animated by one coramon and universal sentiment, prompting all to a zealous discharge of duty— had clearly demonstrated that the hoped-for river must be sought elsewhere : and that very fact which at first seemed to lessen the probabilities of ultimate success, served rather to inspire than to daunt ; since while it could not shake our reliance upon the opinions of those best qualified to decide. THE "BOYL-YAS." 81 that such a river must ultimately be discovered, it only narrowed the ground upon which energy, know ledge, and perseverance had yet to undergo their probation, ere they enjoyed their reward! Our intercourse with the natives had been neces sarily of the most limited character, hardly amount ing to anything beyond indulging them with the sight of a new people, whose very existence, not withstanding the apathetic indifference with which they regarded us, raust have appeared a prodigy. What tradition may serve to hand down the memory of our visit to the third generation, should no newer arrival correct its gathering errors, and again restore some vestige of the truth, it is hardly possible to ima gine ; but should any misfortune follow their posses sion of Mr, Helpraan's pistols, that in particular will be narrated as the motive for the visit of those white men who came flying upon the water, and left sorae of the secret fire upon the peaceful coast : and when again the white sails of the explorer glisten in the distant horizon, all the imaginary terrors of the " Boyl-yas,"* will be invoked to avert the coming of those who bring with thera the unspeakable bless ings of Christian civilization, * The natives in the neighbourhood of Swan River give this name to their Sorcerers. VOL. I. CHAPTER V. FROM ROEBUCK BAY TO SKELETON POINT. DEPARTURE FROM ROEBUCK BAY APPEARAKCE OF THE COUNTRY — PROGRESS TO THE NORTHWARD HILLS AND CLIFFS — FRENCH NAMES AND FRENCH NAVIGATORS — TASMAN, AND HIS ACCOUNT OF THE NATIVES " HAZEY- GAEYS AND assagais" — HIS AUTHENTICITY AS AN HIS TORIAN DESCRIPTION OF THE NATIVES — MARKS AND MUTILATIONS PHRENOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENT MORAL CONDITION — PROAS, CANOES, AND RAFTS — ANOTHER SQUALL ANCHOR IN BEAGLE BAY — FACE OF THE COUNTRY PALM TREES DEW HAULING THE SEINE A MEETING WITH NATIVES — EASTERN SALUTATION — MIAGo's CONDUCT TOWARDS, AND OPINION OF, HIS COUNTRYMEN — MUTILATION OF THE HAND — NATIVE " SMOKES" SEEN MOVE FURTHER TO THE N.E. POINT EMERIAU — CAPE LE- vfeQUE — POINT SWAN — TIDE RACES — SEARCH FOR WATER ENCOUNTERED BY NATIVES — RETURN TO THE SHIP THE ATTEMPT RENEWED CONDUCT OF THE NATIVES EFFECT OF A CONGREVE ROCKET AFTER DARK A SUC CESSFUL HAUL — MORE NATIVES MIAGO'S HEROISM — THE PLAGUE OF FLIES — DAMPIEr's DESCRIPTION OF IT — NATIVE HABITATIONS — UNDER WEIGH — WIND AND WEATHER — TIDAL PHENOMENON — NATURAL HISTORY — SINGULAR KAN GAROO BUSTARD CINNAMON KANGAROO QUAILS GUANAS AND LIZARDS — ANT HILLS FISHING OVER THE SIDE— A DAY IN THE BUSH — A FLOOD OF FIRE — SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS — WHITE IBIS — CURIOUS TREE — RAIN WATER— GEOLOGY OF THE CLIFFS — WEIGH, AND GRAZE A ROCK, OR " TOUCH AND Go" — THE TWINS — SUNDAY DEPARTURE FROM ROEBUCK BAY, 83 STRAIT roe's group MIAGO AND HIS FRIENDS A BLACK DOG — A DAY OF REST — NATIVE RAFT — CAPTAIN KING AND THE BATHURST A GALE — POINT CUNNINGHAM — SUCCESSFUL SEARCH FOR WATER NATIVE ESTIMATION OF THIS FLUID DISCOVERY OF A SKELETON — AND ITS REMOVAL — THE GREY IBIS — OUR PARTING LEGACY. January 22, 1838. — Satisfied that no inland coramunication could be expected from Roe buck Bay, we weighed in the early part of the morning, and stood away to the northward. Roe buck Bay, so named to comraeraorate the name of Dampier's ship, is about sixteen miles across : the southern shores are low, and extensive sand banks and mud flats are bared at low water. Near the N.E, point of the bottom of this bay, is a curious range of low cliffs, from twenty to thirty feet high, and strongly tinged with red, in such a manner as to suggest that they must be highly impregnated with oxide of iron. In the neighbourhood of these cliffs the country bad a more fertile, or rather a less desolate appearance, stretching out into extensive plains, lightly timbered with various trees of the genus Eucalypti, while, on the south shore of the bay, the mangroves were numerous. Towards the afternoon we discovered a small inlet, being then about 30 miles from our former anchorage in Roebuck Bay. IjWe steered directly for it, and when within half a mile of its mouth, we had, at high water, six fathoras, Frora the masthead I could trace distinctly the course of G 2 84 APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY. this inlet, which at this state of the tide appeared to be of great extent ; but the bar which locked its raouth, and over which the sea was breaking very heavily, rendered it irapossible to take a boat across without evident risk, by which no real good would be obtained, as the rise and fall of the tide, eighteen feet, on this low coast, was more than sufficient to account for the imposing, though deceptive appear ance of this opening. From the main- top-gallant yard I was enabled to take an almost bird's-eye view of the level country stretched apparently at my feet. The shore, like the soutli side of Roebuck Bay, was fringed with mangroves, while to the N,N,E. lay an extensive plain, over which the water seemed, at certain seasons of the year, to flow. The country around, for miles, wore the appearance of an inter minable and boundless plain, with an almost imper ceptible landward elevation, and thickly wooded with stunted trees. In sailing along this part of the coast we found several inaccuracies in Captain King's chart, doubt less owing to the distant view with which he was cora pelled to content himself, and to the unfavourable state of the weather against which he had to con tend. I was on deck nearly, indeed, the whole of the night, baffled by flying clouds in my attempts to fix our latitude by the stars : at length, however, I succeeded in ascertaining it to be 17° 40' S. January 23. — The morning was fine, but the wind we had experienced the preceding night APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY. 85 caused a rather heavy swell, which rendered the attempt to enter this inlet an irapracticable task ; however, it was tried. We found between the ship and the shore six, four, and two fathoms, but as the raouth of the inlet was filled with breakers, ap parently on a bar extending out half a mile, I was fully convinced that further perseverance would only araount to waste of time and needless risk, and therefore, after taking a few angles to fix the position of the boat, we returned on board. It appeared at low water to be nearly dry, and then only amounted to a collection of mud and sand banks. The exa mination quite satisfied rae that it partook of the same character as the one already spoken of as seen Yesterday, and that they are alike useless. We were soon under way, and standing towards, or rather along, the shore ; and as the day advanced, the wind drew more to the westward, a coramon occurrence, enabling us to lay along the shore, N. ^ E. By four, p.m., we were within two miles of it, in nine fathoms. The coast here is fronted with a range of sand hills, some of which are topped with verdure : several low black rocky points extend for some distance frora the flat sandy beach into the sea, I have no hesitation in saying, that this is a kind of black sandstone, often found at the bases of most cliffy points, and probably coloured by the chemical action of the salt water. The sand hills, which form the coast line, do not appear to extend more 86 PROGRESS TO THE NORTHWARD, than a mile inland. Beyond, the country appeared to subside into the same dull level which is the characteristic feature of what we have yet seen of this coast, thickly studded with tiraber of a much finer growth than the stunted productions of Roe buck Bay. Behind the cliffy parts of the coast the land assumed a more fertile appearance ; and this seemed an almost invariable law in the natural history of this new world. Five miles to the northward of Point Coulomb, we passed a reef, lying a mile from the shore, with seven fathoms one mile seaward of it. The land now trended to the eastward, and forraed a large bay, the south point of which we rounded at half past four, P.M. The raangroves grew right down to the water's edge, and the spring tides appear to inundate the country to a very considerable extent, the land here being lower than any we had yet seen. We anchored, at half past eight, in six and a-half fathoras, and I ran below to find how our wounded raessmate had borne the day. From my usual post, the mast-head, I traced the shore frora point to point of Carnot Bay, so naraed after the celebrated French consul and engineer. A very low sandy point bore N. 67°, E. 6 miles. Sand banks and breakers completely fortified its shores, and effectually forbid all ap proach, except under the most favourable circum stances. The several French names with which Commo- LAND DISCOVERED BY TASMAN. 87 dore Baudin has distinguished leading portions of this coast, of course, professional courtesy will wil lingly respect ; it is, however, only right to mention, that while he contented hiraself with so distant a view of this part of Australia as to be soraetiraes completely mistaken in the most important particu lars, to the celebrated Abel Tasraan belongs the raerit of having previously landed upon its shores in that very bay, which now bears the name of the great republican, Tasman describes the natives as being quite naked, black in colour, and having curly hair, " malicious and cruel," using for arras bows and arrows, hazeygaeys* and kalawaeys. They carae, upon one occasion, fifty in number, to attack a party of the Dutch, who had landed, but took fright at the sight and sound of fire-arms, " Their proas," he adds, " are made of the bark of trees, and they use no houses." Such is the account of this distinguished and trustworthy discoverer, upon whose veracity I should be the last to attempt to affix suspicion : his very simplicity of detail, and the entire absence of rhe- * " Hazeygaeys" are synonymous with " assagais," the name for the short African spear, used by the tribes between Port Natal and the Cape, and which is generally supposed to be the native term for the weapon. Captain Harris, however, states that this supposition is incorrect; and, certainly, its appearance and termination here incline me to join him in suspecting it of a Dutch origin. 88 DESCRIPTION OF THE NATIVES. torical artifice, would convey sufficient internal evi dence of his truth, had not the subsequent progress of Australian discovery served to confirm all the material facts of his narrative. I may, however, remark, that the natives seen upon this coast during our cruise, within the limits of Roebuck Bay to the south, and Port George the Fourth to the north, an extent of more than 200 miles, with the exception that I shall presently notice, agreed in having a coraraon character of forra, feature, hair, and physiognoray, which I may thus describe. The average height of the raales may be taken to be frora five feet five inches to five feet nine inches, though, upon one occasion, I saw one who exceeded this height by an inch. They are almost black, — in fact, for ordinary description, that word, unqua lified by tbe adverb, serves the purpose best. Their limbs are spare and light, but the muscle is finely developed in the superior joint of the arm, which is probably owing to their constant use of it in throw ing the spear. Some tribes are entirely naked, while others wear girdles of skin and leaves, hardly sufficient, however, to serve any purpose of decency, rauch less of corafort. Their hair is always dark, soraetiraes straight and soraetiraes curled, and not unfrequently tied up behind ; but we saw no instance of a negro, or woolly, head among them. They wear the beard upon the chin, but not upon the upper lip, and allow it to grow to such a length as enables thera to charap and chew it when excited PHRENOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENT. 89 by rage ; an action which they accorapany with spitting it out against the object of their indigna tion or contempt. They have very overhanging brows, and retreating foreheads, large noses, full lips, and wide raouths : in some cases they want the two fore-teeth in the upper jaw, and while, in any one tribe in which the custom prevails, it seems to be unaniraous, it does not appear to be, by any means, universally diffused along the whole north western coast. The unfavourable impression pro duced by the prevailing character of their physiog nomy, is confirmed, if their phrenological conforma tion is taken into consideration ; and certainly, if the principles of that science are adraitted to be true, these savages are woefully deficient in all the qualities which contribute to man's moral supre macy. Let me, in justice, add, that while we found thera ignorant and incurious to the last degree, they were generally suspicious rather than treacherous, and not insensible to such acts of kindness as they could comprehend. Upon all this extent of coast, we saw no single instance of the use, or even existence, of any proa, or canoe ; and my, own opinion, strengthened by personal experience, and enforced by the authority of the most recent navigators, is, that the canoe is not used upon the north-west coast. The negative evidence, at least, is strongly in favour of this pre suraption ; for, while we saw the canoe in use in Clarence Strait, — the western boundary of the 90 BEAGLE BAY, northern coast, — we saw nothing but the raft to the south of that point, I cannot, therefore, avoid the conclusion, that, misled by the sirailarity of ex ternal appearance, Tasman mistook the raft of un- barked timber for a bark canoe, such as he may have seen upon other parts of the coast. We had a return of the same kind of squall from the eastward, as we had experienced before our arrival in Roebuck Bay, and ffom which, since that time till now, we had luckily managed to escape. January 24. — We were again at work by day light, but were delayed, getting clear of the foul ground, lying off Cape Baskerville, on which we twice shoaled the water to three and five fathoms, five and seven miles W. and by S. from that headland. The land over it rises to an elevation of nearly 200 feet, and then again becomes low and sandy, open ing out a bay, which from appearance promised, and wherein we afterwards found, good anchorage : it was named Beagle Bay, and may serve hereafter to remind the seamen who benefit by the survey in which that vessel bore so conspicuous a part, of the amount of his obligations to the Government that sent her forth, the skill and energy that directed her course, and the patient discipline by which, during her long period of active service, so much was done for the extension of our maritime knowledge. In the bight formed between this bay and Cape Bas kerville we passed two high water inlets ; the VISITED BY NATIVES. 91 mouths of both were fronted with rocky ledges. We anchored here, soon after mid-day, and had every reason to be satisfied with our berth. Beagle Bay is about three miles broad and seven deep; the country around is low and open, and traces of water deposit were visible in several spots to indicate its dangerous proximity to the sea. The sraaller shrubs of the country were common ; and the raan groves flourished in great abundance on the beach, and along the little creeks that diverge frora it. Sorae large ant-hills, and very small palm trees, not six feet in height, were noticed for the first time so far south. During the night the wind veered round to S.W., and blew quite fresh, a circurastance which made us additionally prize our good anchorage here. We had, however, no squall, nor any dew, which I should mention falls most copiously upon certain nights, without any apparent indication ; to these dews, the vegetation of this country, so far as we can judge, seems to owe its principal nourish ment and support. January 25. — The forenoon was devoted to the exaraination of this excellent anchorage, and a party was also despatched to haul the seine. On landing they were raet by a party of natives, who saluted thera in a raanner which strikingly reserabled the eastern mode. They had no weapon, save one kiley or bomerang, and bowed down until they almost kissed the water. Their speech was shrill and quick, perfectly unintelligible to our friend Miago, who 92 CONDUCT OF MIAGO. seemed greatly in fear of thera : they seemed astonished to find one apparently of their " own cii rae, complexion, and degree" in company with the white strangers, who raust have seemed to them a different race of beings ; nor was their wonder at all abated when Miago threw open his shirt, and showed them his breast curiously scarred after their fashion — for this custora of cutting stripes upon the body, as other savages tattoo it, by way of ornaraent, seeras universally to prevail throughout Australia— as a convincing evidence that he, though now the associate of the white raan, belonged to the sarae country as themselves. When Miago had, in some degree, recovered frora his alarm — and their want of all weapons no doubt tended to re-assure him more than anything else, he very sagaciously addressed thera in English ; shaking hands and saying, "How do you do?" and then began to iraitate their various actions, and rairaic their lan guage, and so perfectly did he succeed that one of our party could not be persuaded but that he really understood thera ; though for this suspicion I am convinced there was in truth no foundation. In general appearance this tribe differed but little from those we had previously seen. They wore their hair straight, and tied behind in a rude sem blance of the modern queue ; their beards were long, and two or three among them were daubed with a kind of black ochre. All of them had lost one of the front teeth, and several one finger NATIVE SMOKES, 93 joint;* in this particular they differed from the natives seen in Roebuck Bay, araongst whora the practice of this rautilation did not prevail. They were, I think, travelling to the southward, at the time they fell in with us, for they had no females among the party, by whom they are usually at other times accorapanied. The circumstance of their being unarraed raay seem to militate against the supposi tion that they were travelling, but it is to be borne in mind that these people universally consider the absence of offensive weapons as the surest test of peaceful intentions, and would therefore, if they desired to maintain a friendly footing with the new comers, raost probably deposit their arms in someplace of concealment before they made themselves visible. The coast seeras pretty thickly populated between Roebuck and Beagle bays ; as the smoke from native fires was constantly to be seen, but in all cases these signs of huraan existence were confined to the neighbourhood of the sea. The fishing proved unsuccessful, so we were fain to content our selves without the promised addition to our evening meal. We found the tide rise here 18 feet. In the afternoon we reached another anchorage, sorae ten miles further to the N.E. The coast along * A similar custom was noticed by Captain Cook at the Sandwich Islands, where it was regarded as a propitiatory sacri fice to the Eatooa, to avert his anger ; and not to express, as the same mutilation does in the Friendly Islands, grief for the loss of a friend. 94 CAPE LEVEQUE. which we sailed within the distance of two miles, was chiefly remarkable for its tall, dark looking cliffs, with here and there a sraall sandy bay inter vening. We anchored under Point Eraeriau, so named by Captain Baudin, by whom it was mistaken for an island ; its tall, white cliffs, springing from and guarded by a base and ledges of black rock, and tinged with red towards their suraraits, render it a point not easily to be mistaken or forgotten by any who have once seen it. Beyond this the coast curved away to the eastward , forming a bight about eleven miles in length. January 26 Leaving our anchorage at daylight, we passed the north point of the bight just men tioned soon after noon ; it is a low black rugged cliffy point, called Borda by the French, having a much raore weather-beaten appearance than would have been anticipated in this latitude. Behind it the country rose obliquely, the horizon terrainating in an inconsiderable, undulatory, and well-wooded elevation. We passed another bight in the after noon, the shores of which were low and rocky, with a mangrove creek in its depth : from this bight the coast becomes almost straight, the line being hardly broken by rocky points and shallow sandy bays, to Cape Leveque, on the N,E, side of which we found an indifferent anchorage just before sunset. Cape Leveque is a red cliffy point some sixty feet in height, with an islet of the sarae character lying close off it. The latter bore frora our an- POINT SWAN. 95 chorage in 5 fathoms, S. 56° W. 2 miles, and 4^ W. 20° S, from the entrance point of the inviting opening, we were now about to explore, with an interest rather stimulated than decreased by the want of success that attended our exami nation of Roebuck Bay, This point was named by Captain King, Point Swan, in honour of Captain Swan of the Cygnet, under whom Dampier first discovered it; and was an appropriate tribute of respect and adrairation, from one distinguished no less than Dampier himself, by the possession of those qualities of firmness, patience, judgraent and perseverance, which raake up the character of the scientific and adventurous navigator, to hira by whom he had been preceded in Australian discovery. The country between Point Swan and Cape Leveque has a very sandy and barren aspect ; the hillocks near the latter partook of its prevailing red colour. January 27. — We proceeded this morning in the direction of Point Swan, and reraarked, as we approached it, the heavy tide race which used Captain King so roughly, and which subsequent surveying operations enabled us to account for, from great irregularity in the bottom, changing almost at once from 40 to 17 fathoms. We waited, having no wish to experience the full effect of the current, for slack water, and thus passed round it quietly enough ; we anchored in a small bight, S. 20° W. 1^ miles from Point Swan, in seven fathoms, which. 96 TIDE RACES. as we rightly " conjectured, would leave us in three, at low water.* As we had now arrived at the point from which we anticipated carrying on our raost iraportant operations, it became of paramount interest to know whether we could rely for that indispensable article, fresh water, upon the resources of the wild and barbarous shores. The vast extent of country; the delightful verdure which clothed great portions of it ; nay, even the evidences of a people living upon its shores, would, under any other circurastances, and on any other coast, have been deemed conclusively to decide this point in the affirmative : but the voyager knows, frora the best authority, that upon the coasts, and within the heart of Australia, nature seems to delight in contradiction, and that she is more than usually * The following is Captain King's graphic account of his encounter with this "race:" — "On my way towards Point Swan, we saw from the mast-head a line of strong tide ripplings, extending from the Point in a N.vr. by w. direction, within which we at first attempted to pass ; but finding they were connected to the Point, hauled up to steer through them where they seemed to be the least dangerous. As we approached, the noise was terrific; and although we were not more than two minutes amongst the breakers, yet the shocks of the sea were so violent, as to make us fearful for the safety of our masts. A smaller vessel would perhaps have been swamped ; for although the sea was in other parts quite smooth, and the wind light, yet the water broke over the bows, and strained the brig consider ably," SEARCH FOR WATER. 97 capricious with respect to the supply of what is ordinarily her raost coraraon, as it is ever one of her most precious gifts. A few wretched mud-holes might serve for a time to content the savages trained to privation from their earliest infancy, but for ourselves it was clear, either that a reasonable supply of fresh water must be found here, or we must not calculate upon remaining beyond the time which would leave us sufficient to proceed to Hanover Bay, where this most needful coraraodity was, upon the authority of Captain King, to be found. No sooner, therefore, was the Beagle properly secured in her new berth, than a party was despatched in the boats to coraraence a search for water, and to fix upon a spot for carrying on the necessary observations : scarcely, however, had we pushed off from alongside, before the white ensign at our main warned us that the natives were in sight from the ship,* and, on turning our eyes to the shore, we beheld it thronged with savages : the rapidity of whose movements, as they shouted in apparent defiance, brandishing their spears, and whirling their arms round and round with windraill- like velocity, as though to threaten our advance, rendered it irapossible to estiraate their number with any confidence, but they were evidently in considerable force. However, we pulled to the shore, a raeasure against which the valiant Miago * This signal was always made when natives were seen from the ship, if any parties were away. VOL. I. H 98 FIRE A CONGREVE ROCKET. stoutly protested, and landed in a position not directly comraanded by the natives. They made no attempt to prevent us, but anxious to avoid hostili ties — in every event almost equally deplorable — we deferred any distant search for water ; and having fixed on a spot for our teraporary observatory, returned to the ship. January 27, — A strong party was sent on shore, early this .raorning, with the necessary tools for digging a well, should the search for water upon the surface prove abortive. It was at once found that this operation ought forthwith to be commenced, and accordingly a promising spot was selected in a valley not half a mile from the sea. The natives mustered again in force upon the heights, and seemed to watch our proceedings with the greatest interest : we saw nothing of them the following day, but on the third they seeraed so rauch emboldened by our inoffensive proceedings, that they approached so near as to keep the party pretty much upon the alert. It was, therefore, determined, lest familiarity should breed contempt, to give them a hint of our superiority without inflicting any injury upon their persons or property ; and, accordingly, shortly after dark we fired a Congreve rocket from the ship, and in a direction immediately over their presumed position : this had the desired effect, and our well- digging operations, though ultimately unsuccessful, proceeded without further annoyance. Two or three days afterwards a small party came down upon CONDUCT OF THE NATIVES. 99 the beach while wc were hauling the seine ; and terapted by the offer of sorae fish — for an Australian savage is easily won by him who comes with " things that do show so fair," as delicacies in the gastronomic department — they approached us, and were very friendly in their raanner, though they cunningly contrived always to keep the upper or inland side of the beach. We made them some presents of beads, &c. from the stores supplied by the Adrairalty for that purpose, but they received them with an in difference almost araounting to apathy. They very closely exarained the heroic Miago, who submitted to be handled by these much- dreaded "Northern raen" with a very rueful countenance, and after wards construed the way in which one of them had gently stroked his beard, into an attempt to take hira by the throat and strangle hira ! — an injury and indignity which, when safe on board, he resented by repeated threats, uttered in a sort of wild chaunt, of spearing their thighs, backs, loins, and, indeed, each individual portion of the frarae. Their habit of keeping the eyes almost closed, and the head thrown back, in order to avoid the plague of flies, under which this country seems to suffer, adds to the unpleasant expression of their counte nance, and quite justifies the correctness of Dam pier's account : — " Their eyelids are always half closed, to keep the flies out of their eyes, they being so troublesorae here, that no fanning will keep them from coming to one's face ; and without the H 2 100 PLAGUE OF FLIES. assistance of both hands to keep them off, they will creep into one's nostrils, and mouth too, if the lips are not shut very close ; so that from their infancy, being thus annoyed with these insects, they do never open their eyes as do other people, and therefore they cannot see far unless they hold up their heads, as if they were looking at somewhat over them." We found constant occasion, when on shore, to com plain of this fly nuisance ; and when combined with their allies, the rausquitos, no huraan endurance could, with any patience, subrait to the trial. The flies are at you all day, crawling into your eyes, up your nostrils, and down your throat, with the most irresistible perseverance ; and no sooner do they, from sheer exhaustion, or the loss of daylight, give up the attack, than they are relieved by the raus quitos, who completely exhaust the^ patience which their predecessors have so severely tried. It may seem absurd to my readers to dwell upon such a subject ; but those, who, like myself, have been half blinded, and to boot, almost stung to death, will not wonder, that even at this distance of tirae and place, I recur with disgust to the recollection. The natives, in all parts of the continent^alike, seera to possess very priraitive notions upon]|the subject of habitation ; their most comfortable wig wams hardly deserve the name : not even in the neighbourhood of English settlements are they beginning in any degree to imitate our European notions of comfort. Among these northern people. WIND AND WEATHER, 101 the only approach to any thing like protection from " the skiey influences" that I could discover, was a slight rudely thatched covering, placed on four up right poles, between three and four feet high. Another, of a much superior description, which I visited on the western shore of King's Sound, will be found delineated in that part of my journal to which the narrative belongs, February 10. — We remained at this anchorage until the 10th of February, in consequence ofa con tinuance of bad weather ; indeed, the rain during the three first days of that month was at times of the raost raonsoon-like character, while the wind, constantly blowing very fresh, kept veering from N.W. to S.W. Every now and then, by way of agreeable variety, a heavy squall would take us from S. S. W,, though raore comraonly frora W. S. W. The only certainty that we could calculate upon, was, that at N. N, W. the wind would reraain when it got there, stationary for a few hours. The thunder and lightning, the forraer loud and with a long reverberating peal, and the latter of the most in- 102 TIDAL PHENOMENON, tensely vivid kind, were constantly roaring and flashing over our heads ; and, with the stormy echoes which the rolling deep around woke on these unknown and inhospitable shores, completed a scene that I shall never cease to remember, as I never then beheld it without raingled emotions of appre hension and delight. The rain, however, certainly befriended us in more ways than one : it cooled the atmosphere, which would else have been insuffera bly hot, diminished for a time the number and viru lence of our winged tormentors, and recruited our stock of fresh water ; for, though ultimately we were not obliged to have recourse to it as a beverage, it did exceedingly well for washing purposes. We had also, during this time, one raost successful haul with the seine, which araply supplied us with fresh fish for that and the two following days ; the greater part were a kind of large raullet, the largest weighed six pounds five ounces, and measured twenty-five inches in length. On the same day we remarked, owing to the N, W. wind, a singular phenomenon in the tides here, Frora half ebb to hig-h water the stream wholly ceased, and the water being heaped up in the bay by the force of the wind, fell only sixteen, instead of twenty-four feet. Several sporting excursions were made during this period, but with comparatively little success. It is not a country naturally very abundant in game of any kind, except kangaroos, which are numerous, but so harassed by the natives as to be of course SINGULAR KANGAROO, 103 extremely shy of the approach of man. However, Mr. Bynoe succeeded in shooting one which pos sessed the singular appendage of a nail, like that on a man's little finger, attached to the tail. Natural size. I regret that we had no subsequent opportunity to decide whether this was one of a new species of the Macropodidae faraily, or a raere lusus naturoe. The diraensions and height of this singular animal were as follows : — * Length of body from tip of nose . 22 inches. Do. of tail from stump to tip . 24 J inches. Weight . . . . .13 pounds. We also saw some very large red or cinnamon- coloured kangaroos, but never got near enough to secure one ; they were apparently identical with a new race, of which I afterwards procured a spe cimen at Barrow's Island.f One day, when I had penetrated some considera ble distance into the bush, farther indeed than any * This animal has been classed by Mr. Gould as Macropus unguifer, and is now deposited in the British Museum. — One precisely similar was afterwards killed on the east coast of the gulf of Carpentaria, t Osphranter IsabeUinus, — Gould. 104 ANT-HILLS — FISH, of our party had strayed before, I saw a large bus tard, but was unable to get a shot at hira ; his anxious and acute gaze had detected rae, at the sarae raoraent that I had discovered hira, and he was off. I thought at the tirae that he bore a strong resera blance to the wild turkey of the colonists in the southern parts of the continent. We were lucky enough to shoot several quails of apparently quite a new species. In one particular they differed from the raerabers of the genus Coturnis, in having no hind toe. Guanas and lizards were plentiful in this neigh bourhood, and sorae of the latter in particular were most brilliant in colour : they ran down the tall trees, in which they seem to pass a great portion of their lives, at our approach, with a most marvellous rapidity, and darting along the ground, were soon in safety. But what, perhaps, most attracted our attention, was the very surprising size of the ant hills, or nests. I measured one, the height of which was 13 feet, and width at the base 7 feet ; frora whence it tapered gradually to the apex. They are coraposed of a pale red earth ; but how it is sufficiently terapered, I ara unable to state ; cer tain is it, that it has alraost the consistence of raortar, aud will bear the tread of a man upon the top. The fishing over the ship's side was not less success ful than hauling the seine ; though quite a different kind of fish was taken to reward the labour of the salt-water Waltonians, who devoted themselves to it. NATIVE FIRES. 105 They generally secured (at slack water) a large fish, in shape like a bream, and with long projecting teeth, February 6. — We made up a party on the 6th for the purpose of penetrating a little way into the inte rior, and got seven railes from the sea in a S, by W. direction. Every thing wore a green and most de lightful appearance ; but the reader must bear in mind, how vegetation had just been forced by heavy rains upon a light, heated soil, and also recollect that to one who has been pent up for some time on board ship a very barren prospect may seem de lightful. The country was more open in character than I had before noticed it, and the numerous traces of native fires which we found in the course of the excursion, seemed readily to account for this : indeed during dry seasons it not unfrequently hap pens, that an immense tract of land is desolated with fire, communicated, either by the design or care lessness of the natives, to the dry herbage on the surface. The moment the flame has been kindled it only waits for the first breath of air to spread it far and wide : then on the wings of the wind, the fiery tempest strearas over the hill sides and through the vast plains and prairies : bushwood and herbage — the dry grass — the tall reed — the twining para site — or the giant of the forest, charred and black ened, but still proudly erect — alike attest and bewail the conquering fire's onward march ; and the bleak desert, silent, waste, and lifeless, which it leaves 106 SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS. behind seems for ever doomed to desolation : vain fear ! the rain descends once more upon the dry and thirsty soil, and frora that very hour which seemed the date of cureless ruin. Nature puts forth her won drous power with increased effort, and again her green and flower-embroidered mantle decks the earth with a new beauty ! The soil of the extensive plain over which we journeyed this day, was light and sandy in character, but the large araount of vegetable raatter which it contains, and the effect of the late rains, which had penetrated some 24 or 30 inches into it, made us perhaps soraewhat overvalue its real merits. This plain rose gradually before us until it reached an elevation of 180 feet above the level of the sea, and was covered with a long, thin grass, through which the startled kangaroo made off every now and then at a killing pace. The face of the country was well but not too closely covered with specimens of the red and white gum, and paper bark tree, and several others. The tim ber was but small, the diaraeter of the largest, a red gura, 18 inches. Ever and anon the sparkling brilliant lizards darted down from their resting places araong the boughs, so rapid in their fearful escape, that they caught the eye raore like a flash of moraentary light, than living, moving forms. We flushed in the course of the day a white bird, or at least nearly so, with a black ring round the neck, and a bill crooked GEOLOGY OF THE CLIFFS, 107 like the ibis, which bird indeed, except in colour, it more resembles than anv I have ever seen,* Among the trees seen in the course of this ramble, I had alraost forgotten to mention one which struck me raore than any other from its reserablance to a kind of cotton tree, used by the natives of the South Sea islands in building their canoes. Fehruaryl . — The day following we secured several boat-loads of rain-water, deposited in the holes of the rocks, near our teraporary observatory, and were the better pleased with our success, as our well- digging had proved unsuccessful. There was something particularly striking in the geological formation of the cliffs that form the wes tern side of this bay : and which rise from 70 to 90 feet in height, their bases apparently resting amid huge and irregular raasses of the sarae white sand- stone as that which forras the cliffs themselves, and from which this massive debris, strewn in all con ceivable irregularity and confusion around, appears to have been violently separated by some great in ternal convulsion, Sorae of these great raasses, both of the living cliff and ruined blocks beneath, are strangely pierced with a vein or tube of vitreous raatter, not less in some instances than 18 inches in diameter. In every place the spot at which this tube entered the rock was indicated by a considerable extent of glazed or smelted surface ; but I am not sufficiently * Since ascertained to be an Ibis — the Thresldornis strictipennis. 108 WEIGH AND GRAZE ON A ROCK. versed in the science of geology to offer any spe cific theory to account for the appearances I have described : the cliffs were rent and cracked in a thousand different ways, and taking into considera tion their strange and wrecked appearance, together with the fact that lightning is known to vitrify sand, may we not thus get a clue to the real agency by which these results have been produced ?* February 10. — The weather was thick and gloomy, and it rained fast ; but, having completed our survey and observations, and the wind being favourable, it was resolved to get under weigh with out further loss of time. In the very act of weighing, the ship's keel grazed a sunken rock, of the existence of which, though we had sounded the bay, we had been, till that moment, in ignorance ! He only who has felt the almost animated shudder that runs through the seeraingly doomed ship at that fearful moment, can understand with what gratitude we hailed our escape from the treacherous foe. In passing out, we naraed two low small rocky islands, lying north of Point Swan, and hitherto unbonoured with any particular denomination, the * Since this waa written, I have consulted my friend, Mr. Darwin, who has kindly examined a specimen I brought away. He pronounces it " a superficial highly ferrugineous sandstone, with concretionary veins and aggregations." The reader should, however, consult Mr. Darwin's work on the 'Geology of Volcanic Islands,' p, 143, SUNDAY STRAIT — ROe's GROUP. 109 ' Twins,' It should be noted, that the tide did not begin to make to the southward till 8 h, 15 m. a.m., being full half an hour after low water by the shore. We passed through several tide races ; not, how ever, feeling their full force, owing to our encoun tering thera at the time of slack water. In every case our soundings indicated great irregularity of bottom, the cause to which I have already assigned these impediments to in-shore navigation. We found a temporary anchorage the sarae raorn ing, on the east side of the large group forraing the eastern side of Sunday Strait ; so naraed by Captain King, who was drifted in and out of it on that day, August 19th, 1821, amid an accuraulation of perils that will long render the first navigation of this dangerous Archipelago a meraorable event in the annals of nautical hardihood. This group we called after Lieutenant Roe, R.N., Surveyor-Ge neral of Western Australia, who had accorapanied Captain King in that perilous voyage, and whose valuable inforraation had enabled us to escape so many of the dangers to which our predecessors had been exposed. Nothing could exceed the desolate appearance of the land near which we were now lying : rocks, of a primitive character, massed together in all the 110 MIAGO AND HIS FRIENDS. variety of an irregularity, that rather reminded the beholder of Nature's ruin than her grandeur, rose, drear and desolate, above the surrounding waters ; no trees shaded their riven sides, but the water-loving mangrove clothed the base of this sterile island, and a coarse, wiry grass was thinly spread over its sides. Soon after we had anchored, some natives were observed by Miago watching us frora the shore ; and shortly afterwards a party landed, to atterapt communicating with them, and to get the necessary observations for the survey. In the first object they failed altogether ; for these " black fellows," as that gallant hero called them, retired to the heights, and, while closely watching every raoveraent, refused to trust theraselves within our reach. The smaU ness of their number, and their want of arms, quite elevated the courage of Miago, who loudly vaunted his intention of monopolizing a northern " gin," in order to astonish his friends upon our return to the south: — stealing away the ladies being, as I have before reraarked, the crowning and most honourable achievement of which man, in the eyes of these savages, is capable. I ought not to omit remarking here, that the natives seen to-day were accorapanied by a black dog ; the only instance in which, before or since, we observed the existence of a dog of that colour in this vast country. Captain King mentions that he saw one in this neighbourhood during his visit in 1821, DAY OF REST, 111 The following day was Sunday, and, there being no absolute necessity to shift our berth, we remained at anchor ; marking the character of this sacred festival, by giving it up to the crew, for healthful rest and harmless recreation, — after morning prayers had been performed, — as rauch as the needful disci pline, upon a proper observance of which the effi ciency of a ship's company entirely depends, would allow. This practice, constantly observed through out our long voyage, was always attended with the best results. Some rather small pigeons,* of adark brown colour, marked with a white patch on the wings, were seen, and sorae specimens shot. They raade a whirring sound in flight, like the partridge, and appeared to haunt the rocks ; a habit which all subsequent observation confirmed. February 12. — Soon after daylight we left this an chorage, whose exact position I mention, as it may be of use to some future voyager in these seas. The eastern of the three islands north of Roe's group was just open of the north point of the bight in which we lay, and a sraall rocky islet close to the shore bore S.S.W. one raile ; we had five fathoras at low water in the bight, and twelve iraraediately outside. After making a stretch to the southward for about five railes, in soundings varying from 20 to 25 fathoms, we again closed with the shore, and anchored in five fathoms, on the south side of Roe's * PetropMla albipennis. — Gould. 112 NATtVE RAFT. group, three miles from our former anchorage. A party landed in the afternoon to procure the requisite observations : the country was not quite so sterile, nor its face of so rugged a character. We found nothing worth particular attention, except a native raft, the first we had yet seen. It was formed of nine small poles pegged together, and measured ten feet in length by four in breadth ; the greatest diameter of the largest pole was three inches. All the poles were of the palm tree, a wood so light, that one man could carry the whole affair with the greatest ease. By it there was a very rude double-bladed paddle. From a distant station I looked upon the dangerous and rapid current, which divides two rocky islands, and the perils of which are fearfully increased by the presence of an insulated rock in its centre, past which (its fury only heightened by the opposition) the torrent hurries with accelerated force. It was by this fearful passage that Captain King entered this part of the Sound, drifting towards apparently instant destruction, without a breath of wind to afford him even a chance of steering between the CAPTAIN KING AND THE BATHURST. 113 various perils that environed his devoted ship. As the ' Bathurst' swept past the neighbouring shores — covered with the strange forms of the howling savages who seemed to anticipate her destruction, and absolutely within the range of their spears — drifting with literally giddy rapidity towards the fatal rocks, what varied thoughts raust have flashed, crowding an age within an hour, upon the mind of her comraander ? It seeraed that all evidence of what his own perseverance, the devotion of his officers, and the gallantry of his crew, had accoraplished for the honour of their common country, would in a few brief moments be the prey of the rapid, the spoil of the deep ; and yet, while many a heart sent up its voiceless prayer to Him, " whose arm is not shortened that it cannot save," believing that prayer to be their last — not a cheek blanched — not an eye quailed ! But the loving-kindness of omni potent mercy rested even upon that solitary ship, and within a few yards of the fatal rock, one momen tary breath of wind, proved His providential care, for those from whom all hope had fled ! I shuddered as the events Captain King has recorded, rose up in palpable distinctness to my view, and afterwards, in memory of that day, called the channel " Escape" — to the sound itself we gave the name of " King's," in the full confidence that all for whora the remembrance of skill and constancy and cou rage have a charm, will unite in thinking that the VOL. I. I 114 POINT CUNNINGHAM. career of such a man should not be without a last ing and appropriate monument I February 13, — It blew a violent gale the whole of this day from W,S.W,, coraing on quite unex pectedly, for neither the state nor appearance of the atraosphere gave us the least indication of its approach. Exposed on a lee-shore, it raay be ima gined that we were by no raeans displeased to see it as rapidly and inexplicably depart, as it had sud denly and mysteriously appeared, February 14. — Leaving this anchorage we found another in a bay on the mainland, 12 miles S. frora Point Swan, and 11 N.W. frora a remarkable headland naraed by Captain King, Point Cunningham, in honour of that distinguished botanist, whose zealous exertions have added so much to the Flora of Australia. I well remeraber when we were preparing to sail from Sydney, in May 1839, the scientific veteran seemed to enter with the utmost interest into all the details of the coraing adventure. And even, though the natural force of that frarae which had so often set danger at defi ance, while engaged in the ennobling pursuits to which his honourable career had been devoted, was too palpably failing the raind whose dictates it had so long obeyed ; the fire of the spirit that had burned throughout so brightly, seemed to leap up in yet raore glowing flarae, ere quenched for ever by the ashes of the grave! — alas ! within the brief SUCCESSFUL SEARCH FOR WATER. 115 period of two raonths, the world had closed upon him for ever I A point, fronting a small islet, almost joined to it at low water, was selected as a fitting spot for the coraraenceraent of our well-digging operations, which we hoped to bring to a more successful termination than our former attempt at Point Swan. After sink ing to a depth of eight feet our anticipations were fully justified, the water flowing in through the sides in great abundance. It was quite fresh, and in every way most acceptable to us all ; but tinged as it was with the red colour of the surrounding soil, we could at once perceive that it was only surface water. As we watched it filling our neatly exca vated well, we found no great difficulty in under standing why, in this continent, a native speaks of any very favoured district, as ' ' Very fine country — much plenty water — fine country ;" thus corapre hending in the certain supply of that one necessary of life, the chief, nay alraost the sole condition essen tial to a happy land. We naraed this Skeleton Point from our finding here the remains of a native, placed in a semi-recum bent position under a wide spreading gura tree, enveloped, or more properly, shrouded, in the bark of the papyrus. All the bones were closely packed together, the larger being placed outside, and the general mass surraounted by the head, resting on its base, the fleshless, eyeless scull ' grinning hor ribly' over the right side. Sorae of the natives I 2 CHAPTER VL POINT CUNNINGHAM TO FITZ-ROY RIVER. SURVEY THE COAST TO TOINT CUNNINGHAM — MOVE THB SHIP— MUSQUITOS — SOUTHERN VIEW OF KING's SOUND — • SINGULAR VITREOUS FORMATION MOVE TO THE SOUTH OF POINT CUNNINGHAM — CAPTAIN KING's LIMIT — TERMI NATION OF CLIFFY RANGE DISASTER BAY AN EXPLORING PARTY LEAVE IN THE BOATS THE SHORE -^ A FRESH WATER LAKE VALENTINE ISLAND NATIVE FIRE AND FOOD — A HEAVY SQUALL — THE WILD OAT — INDICATIONS OF A RIVER POINT TORMENT GOUTY STEM TREE AND FRUIT — LIMITS OF ITS GROWTH ANOTHER SQUALL WATER NEARLY FRESH ALONGSIDE THE FITZ-ROY RIVER TIDE BORE AND DANGEROUS POSITION OF THE YAWL — ASCENT OF THE FITZ-ROY APPEARANCE OF THE ADJACENT LAND — RETURN ON FOOT — PERILOUS SITUATION AND PROVIDENTIAL ESCAPE SURVEY THE WESTERN SHORE RETURN TO THE SHIP — SPORTING, QUAIL AND EMUS NATIVES — SHIP MOVED TO POINT TORMENT. February 21, 1838. — We remained at this shel tered anchorage until the 21st, by which tirae the coast, so far as Point Cunningham, had been carefully examined. We found it everywhere indented with deep bays, in each of which good anchorage was to be found. The water's edge was in alraost every place fringed with the closely twining mangrove trees, behind which the country gradually rose to an average level of about 200 feet, being thickly covered with the various sorts of Eucalypti, for MUSQUITOS. 119 which all the explored portions of this continent are more or less remarkable. In the afternoon of the 21st, we moved into a bay N.W. of Point Cunningham, and anchored in 8 fathoms (low water) about a mile N.W, from that point ; having passed over a bank of 5 or 6 fathoms, with 12 on its outer, and 10 on its inner side, and lying 2 J railes north frora Point Cunninghara. I spent the early part of this night on shore, a cir cumstance of which the tormenting rausquitos took every possible advantage ; finally driving rae frora their territory with every indignity, and in a state of mind any thing but placid. The poet doubtless spoke frora experience when he asserted — " there was never yet philosopher That could endure the toothache patiently." And even could such a prodigy of patient endurance be found, I am sure it would fail him when exposed to the ceaseless persecution of these inexorable assailants. February 22. — The greater part of to-day was spent in making a raore minute exaraination of the bay, the shoal discovered yesterday rendering a raore careful search necessary. Frora the surarait of Point Cunningham, I had a fine view of the opposite shore of the sound ; very broken and rugged it appeared to be. To the S.E, and south I could see no land ; a circumstance which raised my hopes of finding in that direction the long and anxiously expected river, which the geological formation of the country, 120 SINGULAR VITREOUS FORMATION, and all the recorded experience of discovery, alike warranted us in anticipating. The point upon which I stood was a steep and cliffy rock facing the sea, connected with the main land by a low and narrow neck of land, but almost insulated at high water during the spring tides. A singular cliff, projecting on its S.E. side, is called by Captain King, Carlisle Head ; but we searched in vain for the fresh water, which that distinguished navigator speaks of, as having been found there by him in 1819, We rem.arked here, certain vitreous forma tions, in all, except form, identical with those already described as having been seen at Point Swan, These were small balls lying loose on the sandy beach, at the bottom of the cliff; they were highly glazed upon the surface, hollow inside, and varying in size from a musket, to a tennis ball,* February 23, — We weighed early in the raorning, and rounded Point Cunninghara ; anchoring again at 10 o'clock, A.M., 8 miles north ofit, in 7 fathoms (low water) ; W. by N., one mile from where we lay, a red cliffy head, called by Captain King, in memory of the difficulties which ultiraately compelled him to leave this interesting coast, Foul Point, marks the limit of his survey of this part of the northern shore of Australia, and terminates the range of cliffs,f * F«(?e Mr. Darwin on ' superficial ferrugineous beds.' — Geo logy of Volcanic Islands, page 143. t The cliffs at Foul Point and Point Cunningham, unite the sandstone and argillaceous formation. EXPLORING PARTY IN BOATS. 121 which, up to this point, forras nature's barrier against the sea. Beyond it, the coast assuraes a low and treacherous character, and subsides into a deep bay, called by Captain King, not without reason, Disaster Bay. From the mast-head, from whence I hoped to get a wide view ofthe unknown waters we were about to explore, I could just see Valentine Island, bearing S.S.E. about 17 miles. Its lofty extremities alone being visible, it had the appearance of two islands. Here, then, a really most interesting, — nay, a most exciting, — portion of the duties of the survey were to coraraence in earnest ; and it was reserved for us to take up the thread of discovery reluctantly abandoned by our enterprising and scientific pre decessor, at the raoment when the prize was almost within his grasp. It was forthwith determined, that Captain Wickham and Mr, Fitzmaurice should collect the necessary materials for completing the survey, and preparing the chart of the bay in the ira raediate neighbourhood of the ship ; while to rayself the whale boat and yawl were to be entrusted ; nor can I describe with what delight, all rainor annoy ances forgotten, I prepared to enter upon the ex citing task of exploring waters unfurrowed by any preceding keel ; and shores, on which the advancing step of civilization had not yet thrown the shadows of her advent, nor the voice of thatv,Chris- tianity, which walks by her side through the utter most parts of the earth, summoned the wilderness 122 FRESH WATER LAKE. and the desert to hail the approaching hour, in the fulness of which all the earth shall be blessed ! Soon after dark we were visited by a squall frora the eastward, longer in duration, and heavier than any we had before experienced. From our exposed situation, — no land intervening for 30 miles, — it raised a good deal of sea : the wind remained fresh at the east during the greater part of the night. February 24. — The morning broke, dark, gloomy, and threatening ; but, as the day advanced, it gra dually assumed its usual bright and brilliant charac ter ; and at seven a.m. we started, Mr. Helpman having the whale boat, while Mr, Tarrant accora- panied me in the yawl. We crossed Disaster Bay in four and five fathoras, steering in the direction of Valentine Island, and inside a long sandy spit, partly dry at low water, and extending two-thirds of the way across. While waiting for the tide to rise, in order to cross this natural breakwater, we landed, and struggled for a good mile through a mixture of deep mud and sand, drifted, at the coast line, into hills of from twenty-five to thirty feet high, and bound together by a long coarse grass; iraraediately beyond which we carae upon a small lake of fresh water, where all the luxuriant growth of tropical vegetation was starting into life, and presenting an almost miraculous contrast to the barren sterility, that stamped an aspect of change less desolation upon the rest of this inhospitable shore. Indeed, so far as our experience extended. VALENTINE ISLAND. 123 upon the coasts, and within the interior of this in many respects extraordinary continent, the want of water appears to be the chief drawback to the fer tility otherwise to be anticipated from its geogra phical position : at the sarae tirae, it is quite im possible to blind oneself to the fact, that further researches on the one hand, and the application of the great discoveries in hydraulics, of which recent years have been so fruitful, on the other, raay, and probably will, spread the vernal bloora of cultiva tion over wastes, now conderaned to prolonged and arbitrary periods of drought. This spot, which long arrested ray attention, and upon which I gazed with the selfish feeling of delight inspired by the thought that thereon never before had rested the curious eye of any restless and indefatigable wanderer from the west, is distant about 500 yards N.N.W., from a solitary patch of low red cliffs, the first of this formation that present themselves south of Foul Point. Extensive flats fronting the coast to the southward, alraost connect it at low water with Valentine Island, which we reached at two p.m., just on the top of high water, and shortly afterwards grounded the boats in a small bay to the westward. The greatest extent of Valentine Island is three-quarters of a mile in an E, by S, direction : either extremity is formed by high cliffs, a low valley intervening. On landing we found a fire still burning, near the beach, and beside it a bundle of the bark of the 124 NATIVE FIRE AND FOOD. papyrus tree, in which were carefully packed a quantity of ground nuts, they were each about three-quarters of an inch long, and in shape not unlike a kidney potatoe ;* it seemed clear, judging from the native value of the comraodities thus rashly abandoned, that our arrival had rather taken by surprise these untutored children of the wilder ness : we saw nothing of them till we had re- erabarked, when (four or five only in number) they returned to the beach ; and we could perceive that our foot tracks, upon which they appeared to hold an animated debate, had, to say the least, mightily puzzled them. I ascended the highest point of the island in the afternoon, and frora thence looked over several miles of densely wooded country, but offering no appearance of land to the eastward of S.S.E. We gazed with indescribable delight upon the wide expanse of open water which lay before us in that direction, and already anticipated the discovery of sorae vast inlet, terrainating in the mouth of a raagnificent river, upon the exploration of which our iraagination was already busily engaged ; nor for the moment did the thought, or rather the recollection of the fact, that Captain King had seen land (by refraction) in that quarter, serve to darap our ardour. When it made its way, and perseveringly insisted upon engaging a certain share of my attention, its presence only added an * This esculent appeared to resemble the warran, or yam, used for food by the native inhabitants north of Swan River. A HEAVY SQUALL. 125 additional motive to my previous deterraination to set the question at rest by personal exaraination, and in the interim, to look iraraediately before sun rise (when the atmosphere within the tropics is always clear) for the very sight I should have been most disappointed to have beheld. During the afternoon I shot over the island, and enjoyed some very fair sport ; especially with the pheasant- cuckoo,* and quail, large and small, which were nuraerous : several birds not unlike the so-called crow of the Swan River colonists were seen. We found no fresh water, but in addition to the abundance of game, the presence of the natives, proves the island to be not wholly destitute of this first requisite of life. The thermoraeter at 3 p.m., was 100 in the shade, while the unnatural calra that reigned around gave the experienced searaan plain warning of some disturbance at hand. Just before sunset these anxious anticipations proved correct : a mass of broad edged white clouds rose rapidly in the east, and spread over the till then unbroken blue of the vast vault above ; among or rather behind the interstices of these clouds, the lightning quivered and flashed fearfully and fitfully, gleaming with a terrible distinctness in the fading light of expiring day ! Anon, darker and more ominous clouds succeeded to the first, and quickly uniting seemed to span all heaven with a frowning arch, that came rapidly onwards upon the wings of * Centropiis Phasianellus, — Gould. 126 WILD OATS, the now rising tempest. It was some time ere its approach either attracted the attention or disturbed the boisterous rairth of the boats' crews, who, with the enviable philosophy of their class, were gaily laughing over the incidents of the day. I had just secured a good latitude by Canopus, when the squall burst upon us from E.S.E., it blew very hard indeed for about an hour, veering round to, and terminat ing at, N.E. , and then all was calm again ; partaking of the general characteristics of previous visitations of the same kind, to which we have been subject since our arrival upon this coast, it lasted for a much less time, as hitherto their average duration had been about three hours. It brought the ther mometer down to 80°, All was quiet by raidnight, and undisturbed by the past we finished the night in peace. Daybreak found us at the eastern end of the island, from which point we observed a low strip of land bearing east about 16 miles distant; a fact which re-establishes Captain King's authority, against Mr. Earle's contradiction,* This confirma tion of that distinguished and able navigator, in some degree reconciled me to the unpropitious dis covery, that the shores of this great sheet of water were visibly beginning to contract. During our walk we noticed the wild oat in great abundance. This valuable species of corn is then indigenous to this part of the world. Ere long, perhaps, the time will arrive when upon the coast, * Vide Earle's Eastern Seas, page 451. INDICATIONS OF A RIVER. 127 where now in native negligence "it springs and dies," it may spread the white and glistening gar ment of cultivation — testify the existence — and pro mote the comfort of social life. The same seed was found near Hanover Bay, by Lieuts, Grey and Lushington, and throve exceedingly well in the soft and luxurious climate of the ever- verdant Mauritius. Leaving some presents in a conspicuous situation for the present rightful possessors of the island, whose temporary shelter we had obtained, we hastened back to the boats, and stood away to the eastward for the low land seen from the island, and crossed various narrow sandy ridges, nearly dry at low water, and generally trending N. and S., shewing the direction of the stream by which they were forraed, and at distances of 5, 7, 9, and 12 railes, in an E. by S. direction from Valentine Island ; the soundings between them averaged frora 7 to 9 fathoras. A favouring breeze frora the south helped us half way across to the point, frora whence I hoped and believed we should hereafter date the first great event of the voyage ; and then dying away, compelled us to take to the oars, with the thermometer at 110° in the shade. As we pro ceeded, several circumstances concurred to satisfy me that we were at length really approaching the mouth ofa considerable river; large trees drifted past us with the ebbing tide, while each cast of the lead proved that we were gradually, though nearing the land, deepening the water. Fortune too seemed now resolved to favour us, the deep channel raost 128 POINT TORMENT. opportunely lying along the eastern shore, which we reached soon after noon, and landed on the only beach of sand hereabouts left uncovered at high water. Here, for better security against the squalls we had experienced for the last two nights, we hauled up the boats, A name was soon found for our new territory, upon which we with rueful unanimity conferred that of Point Torment, from the incessant and vindictive attacks of swarms of rausquitos, by whora it had evidently been resolved to give the new coraers a warm welcome. The greater part of Point Torment is deeply inter sected with deep narrow creeks, and is alraost entirely flooded at high water : it extends low and swarapy for nearly three railes in breadth, and then rises gradually, the slope being well wooded with the white Eucalypti, Here also I remarked the gouty stem tree, figured by Captain Grey, and described by Captain King, as of the Nat. Ord. Capparides, and thought to be a Capparis ; it also bears a resemblance to the Adansonia described in Captain Tuckey's Congo, This was but a small specimen in fruit, of which the following brief description may convey a tolerably clear idea. In shape it something resembled the cocoa nut, with a gourd-like outside, of a brown and yellow colour. Its length was five inches, and diameter three. The shell was exceedingly thin and when opened it was found to be full of seeds, imbedded in a whitish pulp, and of a not ungrateful taste. This place, lat, 17° 5' S,, raay be considered the THE MUSQUITOES. 129 limit of its growth in that direction, and the Vic toria River, of which I shall have occasion to speak hereafter, in lat. 14° 55', the northern boundary of its indigenous empire. We saw no traces of inhabitants, not even the thin rising smoke, which so often greeted our eyes near the coast we had recently surveyed. I climbed the highest tree we could find, and from the elevation it afforded looked southwards over a wide prospect of nothing but mangroves and mud banks ; still interesting from the fact that upon them the wondering gaze of the curious European had never yet been bent ! Procuring the necessary observations completed the duties of the day ; but, alas ! the sleep all could have enjoyed so much after our work, was rendered irapossible by the swarras of mus quitoes, who at sunset relieved those of their tribe upon whom the day duty had devolved, and commenced a most unsparing attack upon us : all devices to escape them were tried in vain, and some of the men were really half mad with the insufferable annoyance : at last, about eight o'clock, when all patience seemed exhausted, a welcome peal of thunder, and bright flashes of lightning announced the expected and much desired squall. It served to blow away some of our persecutors ; but our rest was of very short duration, and I was at length compelled to order the people to take to the boats, fairly driven from the shore by our VOL. I. K 130 THE FLOOD-TIDE. dirainutive but invincible assailants. The tide set past the boats at the rate of four knots per hour, and it fell 33 feet, being 6 feet raore than we had as yet found it. The only rock seen here was a block, visible at low water ; it was a conglomerate, and the most southerly formation of the kind we met with. February 26. — The daylight found us all anxiously speculating upon the probable results to be accomplished before the darkness once raore closed in upon us, but the morning being perfectly calm, we were compelled to wait till the flood-tide made : this soon took us past an island four miles from the eastern shore, seen the evening before, and which now proved to be a narrow strip, covered with the never-failing mangrove ; and having two smaller islands, nearly identical in character, lying two miles south of it. We passed them at noon, and saw the land to the westward, our position being then 20 miles south of Point Torment. The water had shoaled in several places during the passage to less than a fathom (low water) ; but the tide hem med in by the contraction of this great inlet, (the left shore of which gradually trending to the east ward, here approached to within six miles of the opposite coast,) still hurried us on with a rapi dity agreeable enough but not quite free from danger, towards what appeared to be the mouth of a large river. If our exultation had been great in the morning, when such success as this was only half ESCAPE POINT, 131 anticipated, what was it at that exciting moment when the eventful hour which should give us the triumph of such a discovery as that we now fairly anticipated, seemed within our grasp ? I cannot answer for others, but for myself I had never known a sensation of greater delight. Doubt, disappoint ment, difficulty, and danger ; all, all were unheeded or forgotten in the one proud thought that for us was reserved an enterprise the ultimate results of which might in some future year affect the interests of a great portion of the world ! Presently, as if to recall to their routine of duty, these upward springing thoughts, the boats were found to be rapidly carried by the stream towards an extensive flat, which appeared to extend right across the opening towards which all eyes had been turned with so much eagerness, and over which the tide was boiling and whirling with great force. To attempt to cross would have been madness ; there was nothing, therefore, to be done but patiently await the rising of the tide. The nearest land, a mangrove point bearing S.S.E, one mile, we after wards named Escape Point, in grateful meraory of the providential escapes we experienced in its vici nity. Where the boats were anchored we had nearly five feet at low water, and the tide ran past them at the rate of five miles an hour. As soon as possible we again started, in a south by west direction, and pro ceeded for about five miles, when the boats were anchored, near the western shore, which we pro- k2 132 MOUTH OF THE FITZ-ROY. posed to visit at low water. From the yawl's mast head I traced the shore all round, except to the south-east, where I could see an opening about a mile wide. The western land was slightly elevated, perhaps to 70 feet, and clothed with rather large trees, while to the eastward the land appeared very low. As the tide ebbed, we found, to our disap pointment and mortification, that the flat over which we reckoned to secure a passage to the mainland, never became quite dry, (the tide here falling only 18 feet) while from its soft and treacherous cha racter, it was impossible to cross it on foot. All doubt about our being in the mouth of a river was put an end to by finding that, during the last of the ebb, the water was nearly fresh. This discovery was hailed by us all with a pleasure which persons only familiar with the well-watered and verdant fields of England cannot fully com prehend. Our success afforded me a welcome opportu nity of testifying to Captain Fitz-Roy my grateful recollection of his personal kindness ; and I deter mined, with Captain Wickham's permission, to call this new river after his name, thus perpetuating, by the most durable of monuments, the services and the career of one, in whom, with rare and enviable prodigality, are mingled the daring of the searaan, the accomplishments of the student, and the graces of the Christian — of whose calm fortitude in the hour of impending danger, or TIDE-BORE. 133 whose habitual carefulness for the interests of all under his command, if I forbear to speak, I am silent because, while I recognise their existence, and perceive how much they exalt the character they adorn, I feel, too, that they have elevated it above, either the need, or the reach of any eulogy within my power to offer ! I felt pretty confldent that the first rush of the tide upon its reflux would be violent, and had made preparation accordingly. In the first watch these anticipations were realized, and I was roused from a momentary doze by a loud roaring, which I at once recognized to be the voice of thunder, herald ing the advancing tide. The night was pitch dark, and though I instinctively turned my eyes towards the offing, I could see nothing, but as each anxious moment passed away, the fearful voice of the waters sounded nearer and nearer, and within less time than I have occupied in the narration, the full force of the rush of tide coming on like a wall, several feet high, and bringing our anchor away with it, was upon us. The cable thus slackened, the yawl sheered, and was thrown violently upon her broadside in the midst of it, and had it not been for the shores lashed to each mast, she must inevitably have capsized. The whale boat fared better; being lighter she was the sooner afloat, and besides her buoyant bow was the better able to receive and resist the shock. When the tide slacked we returned to the deep water off Escape Point, and spent the remainder of 134 ASCENT OF THE FITZ-ROY. the night in quiet, I would fain hope, so far as most of us were concerned, not without a thankful re membrance of Him, whose merciful providence had been so recently manifested in our behalf ! February 27. — Leaving Mr. Tarrant in charge of the yawl, I proceeded with Mr. Helpman to trace the river, immediately after daylight. Against the last of the ebb tide, and with the ther mometer at 80°, we contrived to reach a spot two railes beyond Point Escape before noon. From Point Escape upwards, there appeared to be, at low water, no regular channel ; the bed of the river assumed the aspect of an extensive flat of mud, intersected with small rivulets or streams that served to drain it. No signs of human habitation were seen along its banks, which divided by numer ous small creeks, and thickly fringed with the un failing mangrove, stretched away in level and drear monotony, only broken towards the west by land of inconsiderable elevation. The circling flight ofthe ever wary curlew, and the shrill cry of the plover, now first disturbed in their accustomed territory, alone vouched for the presence of animal Ufe in that vast solitude, the effect of which they heightened, ra,ther than removed ! Finding the further ascent almost if not altogether impracticable at the present state of the tide, I ordered the boat back to Point Escape, and landed, accompanied by Mr. Helpman, and a seaman, in^ tending to return on foot. RETURN ON FOOT. 135 The shore was a soft mud, in which the small mangroves had found a most congenial soil : while our journey every now and then, arrested by the intervention of one or other of the numerous little creeks of which I have before spoken, promised to prove a more fatiguing, if not more hazardous affair, than we had originally contemplated. We managed at first, by ascending their banks for a short distance from the river, to jump across these opposing creeks, but as the tide rose, they filled and widened in proportion, and each moment increased the difficulties of our position, now height ened by the untoward discovery that William Ask, the seaman who had accompanied us, was unable to swim ! Time and tide, however, wait for no man, and the rapidly rising waters had flooded the whole of the low land which formed this bank of the river, so that we were corapelled to wade, feeling with a stick for the edges of the creeks in our route, over each of which Mr. Helpman and myself had alter nately to swira in order to pass the arms undamaged; and then Ask, making the best jump that he could muster for the occasion, was dragged ashore on the opposite side. At length we reached a creek, the breadth of which rendered this mode of proceeding no longer practicable, and we were compelled to stop, being fortunately very near the point where I had directed the boat to meet us. Our situation was now anything but pleasant, the water being already 136 PERILOUS SITUATION above our knees, and the tide having still several hours to rise ; while the mangrove trees by which we were surrounded, were all too slender to afford the least support. In this state of affairs, leaving Mr. Helpman with Ask — who had secured a piece of drift timber as a last resource — I made my way to the edge of the shore, only to find that the boat, unable to stem the current, had anchored some distance above us ! Mr. Helpman and myself raight have reached her by swiraraing ; but even could I have easily reconciled myself to part with our arms and instruments, at any rate to abandon poor Ask in the dilemma into which I had brought him was not to be thought of. By repeated discharges of my gun I at last succeeded in attracting the attention of the boat's crew, who made an immediate and desperate effort to come to our assistance : while their strength lasted they just contrived to hold their own against the tide, then, drifting astern, were again compelled to anchor. The attempt was renewed, when an equally despe rate struggle was followed by just as fruitless a result : the force of the stream was clearly more than they could overcome, and an intervening bank precluded any attempt to creep up to us along the shore. Most anxiously did I watch the water as it changed its upward level almost with the rapidity of an inch a rainute, being in doubt whether it would rise above our heads, ere it afforded a sufficient depth AND PROVIDENTIAL ESCAPE, 137 to carry the boat over the intervening bank, and bring us the only assistance that would afford a chance for our lives, I breathed a short, but most fervent prayer to Him, " in whose hands are the issues of life and death," and turned back to cheer my comrades with the chance of rescue ; nor shall I ever forget the expression of thankfulness and gra titude which lit up the face of poor Ask, as the whispers of hope were confirmed by the welcome advance of the whale boat's bows through the almost submerged mangroves, just as the water had topped our shoulders ; and, therefore, barely in tirae to con firm upon this locality its former title of Point Escape ! We now pulled down to this last named point, and waited for the tide to fall, in order to obtain the necessary observations for determining its posi tion : those for latitude, taken in the early part of the night, gave a result, (worked on the spot,) of 17° 24|^' S. ; being an increase in latitude of 35 miles from the present position of the ' Beagle.' Having now but two days' provisions remaining, I determined on completing the survey of the western shore, south of Valentine Island, and then to return and report our discovery, knowing that Captain Wickham would do all in his power to prosecute it to the utmost. March 3. — These plans were accordingly carried into effect, and we returned to the ship on the morn ing of the 3rd of March. We found all well on 138 RETURN TO THE SHIP. board, with the exception of poor Mr. Usborne, whora we were delighted to see so far recovered. One sen timent of satisfaction pervaded the whole ship's corapany, when informed of our success ; and, as I had anticipated. Captain Wickham at once deter mined upon further exploring our new discovery in lighter boats, first placing the ship as near the mouth of it as practicable. During the squall, on the first night of our absence, the ship parted her cable, and was nearly on the rocks. Our sportsmen had been actively and successfully employed during our absence, having shot a great number of quail ; they had seen two emus, and Messrs. Bynoe and Dring had obtained several speciraens of rare birds, all of which are now figured by Mr. Gould in his Birds of Australia. A few natives had also been seen, but they were too wary to permit any intercourse with them. March 4, — This was Sunday, and no impera tive necessity hindered our making it a day of rest. Various necessary observations occupied the greater part of Monday ; and, on the day following, the ship was moved, under my guidance, to an anchorage, in 5 fathoms (low water), 2^ miles west from Point Torment. CHAPTER VII. THE FITZ-ROY RIVER TO PORT GEORGE THE FOURTH, AND RETURN TO SWAN RIVER. EXAMINATION OF THE FITZ-ROY RIVER — EXCURSION INTO THE INTERIOR ALARM OF THE NATIVES — ASCENT OF THE RIVER SUFFERINGS FROM MUSQUITOES — RED SANDSTONE NATIVES AGAIN SURPRISED — APPEARANCE OF THE COUN TRY IMPEDIMENTS IN THE RIVER RETURN OF THE BOATS AN ALLIGATOR — STOKEs' BAY — NARROW ESCAPE OF AN OFFICER — CHANGE OF LANDSCAPE— -PHEASANT-CUCKOOS A NEW VINE COMPASS HILL PORT USBORNE — EX PLORE THE EASTERN SHORE OF KING's SOUND — CONE BAY NATIVE FIRES — WHIRLPOOL CHANNEL — GROUP OF ISLANDS — STERILE ASPECT OF THE COAST VISITED BY A NATIVE — BATHURST ISLAND — NATIVE HUT AND BAFT RETURN TO PORT USBORNE NATIVE SPEARS — CASCADE DAY — RESULT OF EXPLORATIONS IN KINg's SOUND INTERVIEW WITH NATIVES — CORAL REEFS DISCOVER BEAGLE BANK — ARRIVAL AT PORT GEORGE THE FOURTH — EXAMINATION OP COLLIER BAY IN THE BOATS — BRECK NOCK HARBOUR — THE SLATE ISLANDS FRESH WATER COVE AN EAGLE SHOT ITS SINGULAR NEST — ROCK KANGAROOS — A CONFLAGRATION — SANDSTONE RIDGES — DOUBTFUL BAY MOUTH OP THE GLENELG — REMARK ABLE TREE FERTILE COUNTRY NEAR BRECKNOCK HAR BOUR — RETURN TO THE SHIP — MEET WITH LIEUT. GREY — HIS SUFFERINGS AND DISCOVERIES VISIT THE ENCAMPMENT — TIMOR PONIES — EMBARKATION OF LIEUT, grey's PARTY- — SAIL FROM PORT GEORGE THE FOURTH- - REMARKS ON POSITION OF tTRYAL ROCK — ANECDOTES OF MIAGO — ARRIVAL AT SWAN RIVER — DIRECTIONS FOR ENTERING OWEN'S ANCHORAGE, March 7, 1838. — We spent the morning in making the necessary preparations, and in the after- 140 EXCURSION INTO THE INTERIOR. noon started to resume our exaraination of Fitz-Roy River. Captain Wickham and Lieutenant Eden in the gig, and rayself, accompanied by Mr. Tarrant, in one of the whale boats ; we reached the mangrove isles at sunset, and spent the night between thera and the eastern shore. On the 8th the tide suited us but badly, and we were only able to proceed about four miles beyond Escape Point, where we secured the boats in a creek out of the influence of the tide. We found much less water off Escape Point than on our former visit. In the evening we made an excursion into the interior. It was one vast un broken level, covered with a strong and wiry grass, intersected with numerous water-courses, which the tide filled at high water, there were also indica tions of more important, but less regular, visits from the sea. Here and there a solitary tree assisted us in estimating the distance we had walked. We saw two era us in this plain, which appeared also a favourite resort of quail and a bronze-winged pigeon. We could not get within shot of the wary eraus, but the quail and pigeons afforded us good sport, notwithstanding the cease less attacks of the musquitoes, which swarmed in the long grass, and defied anything less impene trable than Mackintosh leggings, incumbrances not desirable for a pedestrian with the thermoraeter at 87°, particularly when worn over a pair of Flush ing trowsers. Thus defended, I could, in some degree, defy these tormenting assailants, and at NATIVES. 141 night, under the additional security afforded by a large painted coat, contrived to secure two or three hours of unbroken rest, — a luxury few of my com panions enjoyed. It was with much disappointment that we found the channel occupied, at low water, by a mere rivulet, draining the extensive raud flats then left uncovered, Hope, however, though soraewhat sobered, was not altogether destroyed by this mal- a-propos discovery, and we still looked forward with an interest but little abated, to the results of a coraplete survey of our new discovery. March 9. — We moved on when the tide served, keeping close to the eastern bank of the river, where there appeared at low water, the largest stream, then barely two feet deep. Following the sinuosity of the shore, our general direction was south, and after we had thus proceeded two miles, we found the width of the river suddenly contract from three miles to one. The banks were low and covered with a coarse grass. Here we saw three natives, stretching their long spare bodies over the bank, watching the leading boat with the fixed gaze of apparent terror and anxiety. So rivetted was their attention, that they allowed my boat to approach unnoticed within a very short distance of them ; but when they suddenly caught sight of it, they gave a yell of raingled astonishment and alarm, and flinging themselves back into the long grass, were almost 142 EXPLORATION OF THE RIVER. instantly out of sight. They were evidently greatly alarraed, and as Miago, whose presence might have given them confidence, was not with us, it seemed hopeless to attempt any communication with them, much as we should have liked to con vince them, that these strange white creatures were of a race of beings formed like themselves, though even of our existence they could have had no pre vious idea. Six miles from our last night's bivouac, still keep ing our southerly direction, brought us to some low, grassy islets, extending almost across the river, and leaving only confined and shallow channels ; through one of which we had, at half tide, some difficulty in finding a passage for the boats. The river now widened out a little, and we found the deep water near the western bank, the appearance of the coun try reraaining unaltered. We landed to pass the night at a rocky point on the east side of the river, one raile south frora the most western islet of the chain just described as almost preventing our as cent. The depth of the river at this point was about twelve feet at low water ; and its breadth sorae four or five hundred yards. We found the water fresh at all times of tide, which here rose only eight feet ; being ten feet less than its greatest rise eight railes nearer the raouth, where the tirae of high water at the full and change of the moon occurs at 4h. 10m. p.m. This was the first rock formation we had noticed SUFFERINGS FROM MUSQUITOES. 143 since leaving Point Torment, a distance of nearly thirty miles ; it was a very fine-grained red sand stone, darkened and rendered heavy by the pre sence of ferruginous particles. The appearance of the country now began to improve, the eastern bank was thickly wooded, and a mile higher up, the west ern appeared clothed in verdure. I noticed here the same kind of tree, seen for the first time behind our last night's bivouac ; it was sraall and shrubby looking, with a rough bark, not unlike that of the coraraon elm, and its little pointed leaf, of a deep, dark green, contrasted with the evergreen Eucalypti by which it was surrounded, reminded me of the various tints that give the charm of constant variety to our English woods, and lend to each succeeding season a distinctive and characteristic beauty;* I must be pardoned for again alluding to our old enemies the rausquitoes, but the reception they gave us this night is too deeply engraven on ray raeraory to be ever quite forgotten. They swarmed around us, and by the light of the fire, the blanket bags in which the men sought to protect theraselves, seemed literally black with their crawling and sting ing persecutors. Woe to the unhappy wretch who * The diameter of the largest tree of this kind was only eight inches : it was exceedingly hard, and of a very dark red colour, except a white rim about an inch in thickness. This wood worked and looked the best, in a table I had made out of various specimens of woods collected on the North-west coast of Aus tralia. 144 NIGHT OF TORMENT, had left unclosed the least hole in his bag ; the persevering musquitoes surely found it out, and as surely drove the luckless occupant out of his re treat, I noticed one man dressed as if in the frozen north, hold his bag over the fire till it was quite full of smoke, and then get into it, a corapanion securing the raouth over his head at the apparent risk of suffocation ; he obtained three hours of what he gratefully terraed comfortable sleep, but when he emerged from his shelter, where he had been stewed up with the thermometer at 87°, his appear ance may be easily imagined. Our hands were in constant requisition to keep the tormentors from the face and ears, which often received a hearty whack, aimed in the fruitless irritation of the moment at our assailants, and which sometimes ended in adding head-ache to the list of annoyances. Strike as you please, the cease less humming of the invincible musquito close to your ear seems to mock his unhappy victim ! One poor fellow, whose patience was quite ex hausted, fairly jumped into the river to escape fur ther persecution. We had the wind from S,W, to S,E, during the afternoon, but at 6 p,m, it veered round to N,N,W, While getting the observations for tirae and lati tude, some of us were compelled to remain quiet, an opportunity our tiny assailants instantly availed themselves of, covering our faces and hands. To listen quietly to their hum, and feel their long stings ASCENT OF THE FITZ-ROY, 145 darting into your flesh, might put the patience of Job hiraself to a severe trial, March 10. — After such a night of torraent, we hailed the morning with delight ; and having partaken of an early breakfast, proceeded on our interesting discovery. The first reach took us raore than a mile, in a S.W, by W. direction, the width of it being towards the latter end nearly a quarter of a raile; the deepest water, (frora seven to eight feet) was on the west side, and a dry flat of sand fronted the other for sorae distance. The course of the river now changed, first to S.E. then round to W.N.W. enclosing a mile of ground. We had great difficulty, owing to the water being very shoal, in getting our boats through the next reach, which was rather more than a mile in a W. by S. direc tion. After threading our way through three more reaches, trending S.S.W., — S.W,, and S. and from half to one mile in length, the shades of evening and fatigue attending a long and unsatisfactory day's work, warned us that it was tirae to seek a resting-place for the night, although we had but little hopes of obtaining any. We had raade good but six railes during the day in a general S.W. by W. direction. Our progress being delayed by the difficulty we had in getting the boats over the shallows, and by a current running at the rate of from one to two miles an hour. The depth of the river varied during the day VOL. I. L 146 ASCENT OF THE FITZ-ROY, from one to fourteen feet, and its width from three to five hundred yards. In the deep reaches were the wrecks of large trees, rearing their decayed heads, in evidence of the resistless fury of the torrent that had torn them from their roots, during sorae vast inundation, traces of which still reraain on the banks, many feet above the present level of the river. The general aspect of the country had improved, and the eastern bank reached an elevation of 20 feet ; it was covered with long, green grass, and thickly wooded with a luxuriant growth of the white eucalyptus, while the almost total absence of every appearance of animal life, impressed an air of so lemn tranquillity upon the whole scene. Perhaps it was from there being little to admire in the sur rounding scenery that we were so rauch struck with the beauty of the western sky, as its gilded clouds marked the departure of the great ruler of the day. It was scarcely possible to behold a raore splen did sunset; but with us, after another sleepless night, his rise, as he tinged the eastern sky, was hailed with even greater delight. March 11, — At daylight I clirabed the highest tree I could find on the eastern bank of the river, in order to get a peep at the surrounding country. The prospect, however, was but limited. The land scape presented to ray view, was an almost uninter rupted level ; open woodlands, with here and there a few grassy spots, were its prevailing features. I ASCENT OF THE FITZ-ROY. 147 could see nothing of the river itself beyond the reach in which the boats were lying ; its upper ex treraity bore S. by W. and was about half a raile from our halting place. I made a discovery in climbing this tree, which I hoped to make available in our farther ascent of the Fitz-Roy, should we be so fortunate as to accomplish its further exploration, or in any similar circumstances during our exami nation of these untrodden wilds. It was this, and I mention it, as the hint raay be useful to others : I found our eneraies the musquitoes did not resort to the higher portions of the tree, and that by climb ing sorae thirty feet from the ground, a night's repose, or at least a night undisturbed by their attacks might be obtained. Hastening back to the boats, we pushed on, but were sorae time getting to the end of the reach, the shallowness of the water rendering our advance difficult and tedious ; entering at length the next, which trended S.W, for about half a mile, the river gradually widened out until it attained a breadth of about half that space. An extensive flat of sand fronted the eastern bank, which was very low, and though now dry, bore undoubted raarks of being not unfrequently visited by floods. The western bank of the next reach was low and broken, evi dently forraing a group of low grassy islands when the river is in a higher state. Some yellow sandstone cliffs, from ten to sixteen feet in height, formed the opposite bank of this L 2 148 ASCENT OF THE FITZ-ROY. reach, which extended barely a quarter of a mile, in from a S, by E. to a S. by W, direction ; and varied in width from one to two hundred yards. We now entered a lake-like reach of the river, trending south for a mile and a quarter, having a breadth of about a hundred yards, and a depth in many places of twelve feet ; being twice that which we had usually found in any of the lower reaches, with scarcely any stream. Soon after entering this reraarkable sheet of water, we noticed a rock forraation in its western banks ; this we found to be a coarse grained red sandstone, with fragments of quartz, and extended for nearly a quarter of a mile along the edge of the water. Over many parts of it was a coating of a dark and metallic appearance, about three inches thick ; and the surface in places pre sented a glazed or smelted appearance. Mr, Daryvin, in his work upon volcanic islands, page 143, alludes to this formation, under the head of " Superficial ferruginous beds," and thus concludes his observa tions:— "The origin of these superficial beds, though sufficiently obscure, seeras to be due to allu vial action on detritus abounding with iron." As we proceeded along this canal, for such was the appearance of the reach we were now ascending, we surprised a sraall party of natives. ,They were at the water's edge, beneath a high mound of loose white sand, over which the children were some time in mfiking their escape, struggling and screaming with anxiety and feai',; as they half buried themselves be- ASCENT OF THE FITZ-ROY. 149 neath its treacherous surface ; and sometimes, after almost gaining the surarait, sliding back again to the base. All parental care seeraed for the moment lost in the overwhelraing sense of pre sent danger, caused by the strange and unknown spectacle thus suddenly presented to the gaze of these poor savages. Our white faces, curious gar- ments, moving boats, the regular raotions and un accustomed sounds of our heavy oars, must indeed have filled them with amazement. I have since frequently remarked, that our oars created more wonder, or alarm, among the various tribes who first learnt through us the existence of their white brethren, than almost any other instrument of which they could at all understand the use ; perhaps, as they propel their frail rafts with a spear, they jumped to the conclusion, that our oars were also immense spears, which, being their chief weapons, must have given us a formidable appearance. We noticed, among the trees on the banks of this natural canal, two varieties of the palm ; both kinds had been observed by Mr. Brown in the Gulf of Carpentaria, during Captain Flinders' voyage. At the end of this reach, which extended for a mile and a half in a S,E. by S. direction, the river was scarcely 50 yards wide, and the depth had decreased from 12 to 6 feet ; the current, scarcely perceptible in the deep water, now ran with a velo city of from one to two miles per hour. Here, therefore, the Fitz-Roy may be said to assume all 150 ASCENT OF THE FITZ-ROY. the more distinctive features of an Australian river : deep reaches, connected by shallows, and probably forming, during the droughts which characterize Australia, an unlinked chain of ponds or lagoons ; and in places, leaving no other indication of its former existence than the water-worn banks and deep holes, thirsty and desolate as a desert plain. At this point, the river divided into two branches, one having an E.S.E., and the other a S.S.E. direc tion. Anxious to determine, which, as the larger, best deserved our exploration, we landed at a high grassy point on the west bank. Frdm the top of the highest tree in the neighbourhood, I coniraanded an extensive view of the wide and far-spread land scape then first subraitted to the scrutiny of an Euro pean. Varied and undefined are the thoughts called forth at such a moment ; the past, the present, and the future, at once occupy, and almost confound the imagination. New feelings accompany new percep tions ; and gazing for the first tirae upon a vast and unknown land, the raind, restless and active, as the roving life by which it is informed, expands for the reception of the crowding fancies, called into life as by the wand of the magician. After yielding for a while to the influence of the scene, I was glad to perceive the greater magnitude of the southerly branch of the river, which offered the most direct line into the interior. I could trace each stream for nearly three miles, but that which trended to the east was a raere rivulet. Both flowed ASCENT OF THE FITZ-ROY. 151 through a perfectly level country. Seven miles was about as far as the eye could reach over this weari some looking level. To the westward the country was open ; the trees were small, and in clumps, with green grassy patches between ; but in other direc tions, it was densely wooded, and on the eastern bank the trees were large. In the branches of the one I ascended, rushes, deposited by the cur rent, were found 20 feet above the present level of the stream. This part of the country is therefore sometimes visited by heavy floods ; they do not, however, seera to depend irarae diately upon the quantity of rain, for while the whole face of the landscape indicated large and recent supplies, the river appeared little, if at all, affected by them. Having determined to follow the larger branch of the Fitz-Roy, we continued on our course, and found that beyond this point the river again widened to nearly 200 yards ; but that a chain of small islets, extending from bank to bank, nearly stopped our proceeding further. This obstacle was, however, overcorae after sorae difficulty ; and still proceeding upwards another mile, we came to a narrow rapid and shallow reach, which brought us into another still and deep, about 100 yards wide, and bounded by high grassy banks. Through this we pursued our way right merrily, indulging in the golden anti cipation that the Fitz-Roy would yet convey our boats sorae distance into the interior of that vast 152 IMPEDIMENTS IN THE RIVER. and unknown continent, with the present condition and future destiny of which our thoughts were so often busy. Scarcely, however, had we made good another mile, when we found ourselves entangled among a cluster of small islets, and sunken trees, which alraost wholly choked up the channel. The river thus pent up, ran through the sraall open ings in this barrier with great velocity ; while above, it had again assumed the deep still character which I have before had occasion to describe. We had partly overcome this impediment, when Captain Wickham decided upon giving up the at terapt, and ordered the boats to return, considering the evident risks too great to justify further perse verance. We therefore gave up the exploration of the Fitz-Roy, in lat, 17" 44' S., long, 124° 34' E., having traced its course for 22 miles in a general S.S.W. direction, and having penetrated 90 miles frora the coast line, towards the centre of Australia, from which we were still distant 600 railes. My view frora the tree top extended about four railes beyond the furthest point we had reached on the river, it had been our good fortune to add to the geography of Australia, Its banks here were 20 feet high, and covered with grass ; partially broken or washed down, they disclosed to view a rich alluvial soil, nearly two feet deep. The trees we found raost coraraon during our expedition into this portion of the new lands of Australia, consisted chiefly of two species of palm. RETURN OF THE BOATS, 153 and three of the eucalypti, stunted banksia, acacia, and the singular tree before raentioned. The birds we saw were wholly those belonging to the land, and were chiefly black and white cockatoos, and a variety of finches. We neither saw nor caught any fish, and the absence of water-fowl led us to suppose they were scarce. All the exciteraent and interest we had enjoyed in exploring the Fitz-Roy thus far, now left us, and our return was coraparatively tedious and monotonous work, March 12. — We, however, managed to reach our last night's bivouac by dark ; and towards the close of the next day we got as far down as the outer grassy islet in the entrance ofthe river. The night was stormy, but the wind and rain together kept away the musquitoes, and enabled us to obtain a little most welcome rest. This change in the weather was sudden. Hitherto we had been singu larly fortunate, each succeeding night, and returning morn being, in clearness and beauty, only a repeti tion of its predecessor, March 13, — The raorning was again fine, and the bright sky was not disfigured by the least trace of the dark clouds that had so lately overspread it. The tide fortunately favoured our raaking an early start. On passing Escape Point, so naraed, as the reader raay recollect, in grateful reraembrance of the providential escape a small party of us ex perienced there, we saw an alligator slide his unwieldy carcass from the soft mud-bank, upon 154 stokes's BAY, which he had been lazily reclining, into one of the creeks we had so much difficulty in crossing. We could not but feel grateful that even the existence of these monster reptiles in this river was then unknown to us, as the bare thought of a visit from one of them would have added to the unpleasantness of our position, while the actual presence of so wholesale a gastronomer would perhaps have given another and less auspicious name to Escape Point. A creek, ten miles from Point Torment, afforded us shelter for the night, which was again wet and squally. March 14. — At day-break the blue vault above was still disfigured by dark inky blotches of clouds. We reached the ship before breakfast, and found that Mr. Helpman and Mr. Keys had ascertained that the opening on the north-east side of Point Torraent was a great bay, extending ten miles in a south-easterly direction, with a width of the same distance : its shores throughout were fringed with mangroves, through which the tide found its way, inundating many miles of the interior at high water. In the north and south corners of the depths of this bay they found an inlet, each being about three miles deep ; narrow, sandy ridges, almost dry at low water, trending to the N.W,, and separated by channels from three to four fathoras, occupied the greater portion of this extensive bay, which Captain Wickham, out of corapliment, named after myself. Point Torment afforded a very fair field for the AN OFFICER ENTANGLED IN MANGROVES, 155 exertions of our collectors in Natural History. Without wishing to bore ray readers with another long musquito story, I think the following may be interesting. One of the officers on a shooting excursion lost his way and got entangled in a raangrove forest, where the ground being a soft mud, travelling became very laborious, particularly in a tempera ture of 85° and without water ; fatigue hastened by thirst, at length quite knocked up ray shipraate, who threw himself exhausted on the ground. In vain did he seek for a little rest, for no sooner was he quiet than swarms of musquitoes assailed hira, and forced him again on his legs ; unwelcome as these tormenting visitors generally are, they were probably in this case the raeans of saving ray friend's life, as goaded on by their unceasing attacks, to exertions otherwise out of the question, he even tually reached assistance, and was brought on board in a most helpless condition. The tide here was two hours later than at Foul Point : the greatest rise noticed in the ship was thirty feet, which was seven feet less than we had found it in the yawl. We had several heavy squalls from eastward this afternoon, and during the early part of the night, with rain and thunder. Marchl5. — The morning broke dull and gloomy, with a light breeze frora the eastward. There were altogether evident syraptoras of a decided and ira- 156 CHANGE OF LANDSCAPE. mediate change in the weather. The survey of the south-eastern portion of the sound being now complete, the ship was taken over to the high rocky land lying north 20 miles from Point Torment. We crossed the flat extending four miles N.W. from that point, in from two to three fathoms at low water ; the soundings afterwards varied from nine to eleven fathoms with a soft, muddy sand bottom. We anchored in seven fathoms low water, one mile and a half S.S.W. from the southern of two small rocky islets, lying 16 miles north from Point Torment and three from the rocky shore behind them ; a sand-bank, dry at low water, extended from these islets to within half a mile of the ship. Our eyes were now relieved by a pleas ing change of landscape; the land had wholly changed in character from that of which we had seen so much and grown so weary. It no longer stretched away in an illimitable and boundless plain, but rising abruptly from the water's edge, attained an elevation of 700 feet. The highest part of this range (afterwards named Compass Hill) bore N. by W. distant four and a quarter miles. We were all of course exceedingly anxious to visit this new land ; but the weather, strange to say, put our patience to a trial of four days, during which it equalled in severity any we had expe rienced under Swan Point. It commenced with dark masses of clouds rising in the east, which were soon followed by a fresh breeze from the S.E. EXPLORATION OF THE 'baY. 157 with heavy rain, gradually freshening as it carae round to the westward, blowing hardest between W.S.W and W.N.W. The barometer being out of order we were unable to observe how this un usual change would have affected that instrument ; the therraoraeter, however, fell to 76°, an alteration of temperature which, corabined with the darap- ness of the atmosphere, exposed us to the novel sensation of cold. We noticed the time of high water was about fifteen minutes earlier than at Point Torment, the flood-streara setting E,S,E. and the ebb west. The forraer at a rate of two miles, and the latter one mile per hour. March 21. — At length the wished for change arrived, and we again beheld this raorning the deep pure blue of a southern sky. We were all eager to coraraence our exploration, and Mr. Usborne, ever anxious to be actively employed, was so far reco vered that he induced the surgeon, though reluc tantly, to allow him to again share in the duties of the survey. He was accordingly despatched to look for a berth for the ship further to the N.W,, while Captain Wickham and myself went towards Com pass Hill. We were accompanied by Mr. Bynoe, who, during our excursion, was fortunate enough to add several rare birds to his collection. We landed in a sraall sandy bay at the western end of a growth of raangroves, fringing the shore behind the islands. The sand-bank fronting thera we found to extend to the bay we landed in ; to the westward of it 158 A NEW VINE. there was deep water close to the shore. Wood and water might easily be obtained in this bay, a cir cumstance that may give it value in the eyes of future navigators, as it did in ours. Before ascending the hill we crossed a flat clothed with rich grass, out of which we flushed several Pheasant-cuckoos,* We found one of their nests on the ground containing four eggs, in size and colour they reserabled the doraestic pigeon. The nirable manner in which these birds hop along the branches of trees, with their long tails whisking behind, give them, at the first glance, more the ap pearance of monkeys than birds. We found here the gouty-stera tree of large size, bearing fruit ; and also a vine, which, frora all the inforraation I have since been able to collect, appears to be quite a new specimen ;t it bore a small but well-tasted black berry, similar in shape and general appearance to the grape soraetiraes seen clirabing over the cot tage doors in England. Each fruit contained three large seeds, in shape and size reserabling the coffee berry. It was growing in a light sandy soil, and the temperature to which it was exposed varies from 76° to 110". It is a raatter of great regret that I was not able to introduce this new species of vine into England ; the seeds and specimens of it having been unfortunately destroyed by mice and insects. * Centropus Phasianellus, f From the description I gave of this vine to Sir W, Hooker he thought it quite new. COMPASS HILL. 159 I was, however, raore fortunate at Sydney and Swan River. We at length gained the top of Corapass Hill, which we found to be a slight mound on a platforra of coarse sandstone formation, with fragments of quartz ; the sandstone was tinged with red, and appeared to be crumbling away ; a straggling growth of white eucalypti covered the crest of this height, which rather spoilt the view we had proraised our selves ; however, by clirabing several of them, I managed to see all round. West, six and a half railes, there was a snug cove fronted by a small island, from whence the coast appeared to take a more northerly direction. The extremes of a large sheet of water bore N. by W. and W. by N., which we afterwards found to be connected with the above-mentioned cove. A suc cession of heights, similar to the one we were on, bounded our view between N. and N.E. Twenty- one miles, in a S. E. by E, direction, were some detached, round hills, apparently the termination of the high land on which we stood ; these appeared to rise out of a plain of such an extent, in a S,E and easterly direction, that I conceived it possible it raay have extended to the rear of Collier Bay, which damped the interest we had previously looked forward to, in the exploration of that part of the coast, as it tended materially to weaken the proba bility of finding any large opening there. In crossing one of the valleys in our descent to the boats. 160 pakT USBORNE. Mr. Bynoe wounded a large kangaroo ; we gave chase ; but notwithstanding all our efforts, and at the expense of raany a bruise, stumbling over the rugged ground, the prize, alraost within our grasp, escaped, and, to add to our raisfortune, one of the small compasses was found missing, the strap that suspended it having given way ; from this accident the hill received its name. On our return to the ship, we found Mr, Usborne had discovered good anchorage in the cove we had seen from the hill, which in commemoration of his providential recovery was called after him Port Usborne. March 22. — It was a clear and beautiful morn ing, and the sun as it rose shed a glittering streara of light over the placid waters of the bay, now slightly rippled by an easterly air. All were early and busily engaged in raoving the ship into Port Usborne. On our way we crossed the inner edge of a bank seen frora Corapass Hill, in three fathoras : Helpraan's south islet bore at the tirae east three and a half miles ; after crossing this bank, the least water we had was ten fathoms ; this depth we found in passing on the eastern side ofthe small, low island fronting Port Usborne. A solitary overspreading tree, and a white patch on its eastern extremity renders this island conspicuous, and is of this importance, that it guides a stranger to the only safe anchorage among the islands on the eastern shore of King's Sound. As a further guide to Port Usborne it is situated at the southern extremity of all these PORT USBORNE, 161 islands, and where the coast suddenly trends away to the eastward. We were delighted to find ourselves in an anchorage alraost surrounded by land, and although the rugged standstone ridges, with their dark, raysterious, and densely- wooded valleys, did not give the shore a very inviting appearance, still the very wildness of the scenery contrasted pleasingly in our remembrance with the monotonous level of the country about Point Torment, and on the banks of the Fitz-Roy. Our present position had also its practical advantages, being well adapted for carry ing on the essential duties of the survey, for which service the boats were prepared in the course of the afternoon. This snug little port we found to be three- quarters of a raile broad and one deep, and vary ing in depth from seven to fifteen fathoms : it faces west, the entrance points lying nearly north and south of each other, and affords an abundant supply of wood and water. We saw no traces of inhabitants ; not even the curling smok« that had so often indicated their presence, greeted the eye ; all was silent, and the feelings of utter loneliness were only dispelled by the mournful screams of the curlew, and occasional howl of the wild dog, as the deepening shadows of night closed in. March 23. — The boats were manned early, and we left the ship with tbe best wishes of the anxious group who watched our departure, and VOL. I, M 162 EASTERN SHORE OF KING's SOUND. speculated with eager anticipation upon the pro bable result of our enterprise. Mr. Usborne proceeded in one boat to examine a group of islands, lying six miles N.W. from our anchorage ; Mr. Tarrant and rayself in the other, to explore the eastern shore of King's Sound. It was thus again our good fortune to enjoy the exciting pleasure of anticipated discovery; per chance again to wander over the face of a countrv, now the desert heritage of the solitary savage, but fated, we hope, to becorae the abode of plenty, and the land of peace. After passing the extreme N.W. point of the main land, seen from the ship, we discovered a deep bay, which once reached, would afford safe anchorage for a fleet. Near its northern point a large stream of water fell into the sea in glittering cascades; off this a ship may anchor in twelve fathoms within a quarter of a mile ; close to the west is a small sandy beach. Promising to refresh ourselves at this inviting stream, we continued our course to the northward. ^ After passing a deep narrow channel, trending N,W. by W, we met the first rush of the northerly, or ebb stream, which, running at the rate of six or seven knots, swept us through a very sraall, dangerous opening, between sorae rocky islets and the raain, A sraall bay fortunately afforded us the means of avoiding a treacherous ledge of sunken rocks, which had the boat touched, at the almost giddy rapidity we were hurried along, our CONE BAY, 163 destruction must have been inevitable. Landing to cook our dinners, I went to the top of the highest neighbouring hill, to obtain a round of angles : our journey was a perfect scramble, the face of the country being intersected by deep ravines, and covered with huge blocks of coarse sandstone ; over these we observed several of the rock-kan garoo, bounding with their long, bushy tails swing ing high in the air as if in defiance of pursuit. The view of the archipelago, from this position, fully satisfied me, that without incurring great risk, it would be irapossible for a ship to thread her way through the numerous islands, independent of shoals, tide-races, and shifting winds, which form the ordinary perils of such navigation. I reckoned more than eightj'^ islands in this portion of the archipelago alone. After dinner we proceeded, steering N.N.E,, and crossed two deep bays, the first 3 and the second 4^ railes widfe, both affording good anchorage, but utterly useless from the barrier of reefs and islets extending across their raouths. These bays and the ranges of hills we passed, trended E,S,E. To the second and deepest we gave the narae of Cone Bay, from a singular hill of that form on its eastern shore. The eastern entrance of a sraall tortuous channel afforded us a resting place for the night, having made good 17 miles in a N,N,E. direction from the ship. The observations were made for latitude on the south point, and gave a result of 16° 24^' S. M 2 164 NATIVE FIRES. It was nearly dark when we anchored, and thisrefore our intended attempt to gain the summit of the neighbouring heights, was necessarily postponed till this morning — March 24. — When the first rays of the sun saw us struggling over the huge masses of rock of which they are composed. The view itself differed but little from that obtained yesterday, except that the islands are yet more numerous, the mainland more frequently indented with bays varying from two to five miles in width, and invariably trending in the same E.S.E, direction. The long and narrow islands which these bays contained generally sub sided to the S.S.W, I was fully occupied in sketch ing the surrounding objects from this station, till the tide had risen sufficient for us to pass the channel. After a late breakfast we again bore away to the N.E. under a double reefed sail, as the sky wore a threatening appearance. After clearing the channel we crossed a bay about two miles wide and four deep, thickly studded with small islands. At noon being near the north point of it, I landed in order to secure a latitude, and at the same time a round of angles. Having the flood tide against us, we had only made five miles in a N. by E, direc tion frora last night's bivouac. Here for the first time since leaving the Fitz-Roy we saw native fires. One of them was upon an island eight or nine railes from the main, between which, however, a chain of smaller ones formed REMARKABLE HEADLAND. 165 links of communication. These signs of inhabit ants gave us hopes of finding some improvement from the alraost utter sterility that had hitherto prevailed araong these scattered islands. We had as yet seen no traces of either canoes or rafts, and therefore were not a little curious to see what raode of conveyance the natives of these parts used. We soon again moved onwards in a north by east direction, across another large bay, which, similar to the last, contained many islets. It was with great reluctance we pursued this northerly course, as I hoped ere this to have found an opening leading to the coast near Collier Bay; but the result of this day's progress fully satisfied me of the improbability of any such existing. The north point of this bay forms a most remarkable head land, rising abruptly from the water to an elevation of 400 feet. Its cliffy face presented a grey and aged appearance, which together with the strange column-shaped rocks, scattered over its level sum mit, gave it the appearance of an ancient turreted fortress. Here I first noticed a change in the strata ; hitherto it had been invariably west-north west, while from this point, as far as our subse quent experience enabled us to decide, it was west, I raay be pardoned for noticing by way of a moraen tary digression that all the rocks hitherto seen on this part of the coast precisely reserable the group forraing the western side of Sunday Strait; the inclination and direction of the strata are identical ; while an examination of all the high rocky portions 166 WHIRLPOOL CHANNEL, of this archipelago will satisfy the geologist that they belong to the sarae age of the world. The history of these coral reefs and islands, which have already attained soraething like a majority, (if I may use the expression) may be read, at least it is apparently clearly written in the rising banks around, which are just struggling with the tide before they lift themselves for ever beyond its reach. As they rise, the mangrove, the pioneer of such fertility as the sea deposits, hastens to maturity, clothing them with its mantle of never- fading green, and thus bestowing on these barren reefs the presence of vegetable life. Our course now lay along the western foot of the curious head-land just described, a rapid tide soon hurried us past its frowning shadows into a very winding channel scarcely half a mile wide, and more than 20 fathoras deep ; in this we experienced violent whirlpools, the first of which, frora want of expe rience, handled us very roughly, suddenly wrench ing the oars out of the raen's hands, and whirling the boat round with alarming rapidity ; after several round turns of this kind we shot out of the channel (which from the above circurastance we called Whirlpool Channel) into a bay about three miles wide, trending east ; at the head of it were some snug coves, the shores of which were clothed with long rich grass and cluraps of palra trees, thus realizing the hopes we had entertained of finding a raore fertile country on first observing signs of inhabitants. We would fain have occupied one of BATHURST ISLAND. 167 these beautiful coves for the night, but as there was still two hours' daylight, we pushed on across the bay for a group of islands three railes further in a north-north-east direction. We obtaned snug quarters for the night in a little sandy cove* between the largest of this small cluster of isles which we found to differ totally in shape and character from any yet seen ; they trended N.N.W. in narrow ridges, and were of a grey slate formation, their eastern sides formed steep precipices, while the western subsided to the water in rich grassy slopes, leaving quite a serrated ridge on their summits. We managed to reach the raost elevated part of the highest island, by crawling along its ridge on our hands and knees. Frora this station I recognized the islands to the N.W, to be those forming the eastern shore of Sunday Strait, and from the westerly trend of some larger ones bearing N.E. about eight miles, I rightly supposed them to be the same Captain King had laid down off that part of the coast, where it trends away to the eastward into Collier Bay ; the largest of these I in consequence naraed Bathurst Island, after his vessel. We were glad to find the islands becoming less numerous, and a prospect of at last raaking our way to the east ward. We just finished our observations, as the sun's bright orb touched the distant horizon, and ere we reached the boat, the last vestige of day had taken its silent flight. Our present position in this net-work of islands, will be better described by giving it in latitude and longitude, which we found 168 APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY, to be 16° 12' S. and 123" 32' E. We had as usual a fine night with a light E.S.E. breeze, which had succeeded a strong one from S.E. during the day. March 25. — Daylight found us running before a fresh breeze from the S.E. in a N.N.E. direction ; crossing the mouths of small bays, four railes brought us to the N.W. extreme of the raain land, the shores of which we followed for two railes in a E.N.E, and one in an E, half S, direction, when we carae to a small sandy bay where we landed to search in a promising ravine for water ; this we had the good fortune to find almost iraraediately ; whilst the breakers were filling, Mr, Tarrant and myself ascended a hill near, for a few angles. The country again presented a barren appearance, large raasses of coarse sandstone lay scattered over the face of it ; a wiry grass, with a few stunted gum-trees grow ing in the ravines, were all the vegetation this point boasted of, and from what we saw of the interior, it appeared scarcely more inviting. The sterility however which apparently prevailed over this part of Australia, could not obliterate those feelings of deep interest, which must pervade every one, as the eye wanders for the first tirae over a country hitherto unknown. We had just corapleted our surveying operations, when two of the boat's crew came to report a visit frora one of the natives, and concludin'g others were at hand, hastened up to strengthen our party ; they said their sable visitor carae to thera without any enticing, no offers of red or blue handkerchiefs, or sorae gaudy bauble that VISITED BY A NATIVE. 169 seldom fails to catch the eye of a savage — and with out the slightest indication of fear. We hurried down to see this marvellously confiding native, who we found coming up the hill ; he raet us with all the confidence of an old acquaintance. His first act of civility, was to shew Mr. Tarrant and myself an easy road to the beach ; and I shall never forget as he preceded us, or rather walked by our side, yielding the path, with natural politeness, to those he seemed to regard as his guests, how wonderful was the agility he displayed in passing over the rocks ; soraetiraes coming down the face of one almost precipitous, without the least apparent effort. When I pointed to the fresh water, he said slowly and distinctly, " Yarapee, Yampee." In height he was about 5 feet 8 inches, his hair bore no symptoms of being tied up behind, (a custom we always before noticed), his teeth were also perfect, and though his brow had the distinctive peculiarity of the people of this continent, his forehead was remarkably high, his perception was very quick, his utterance gentle and slow, both in articulation and by signs, (not flinging his arms about in the windmill-like fashion customary with those we had before seen), his raanner of conver sation afforded a most pleasing contrast to that of the natives hitherto seen, and altogether I was exceed ingly prepossessed in his favour. We very much regretted that we were not better provided with presents for him : particularly as it seldom happened that I was without a supply, for such occasions ; in this case, however, all I could give him consisted of 170 NATIVE HABITS. a few beads, and some biscuit which he devoured most readily. Nor ought the perfect confidence this man raanifested, in thus trusting hiraself alone and unarmed, among such extraordinary strangers, to be passed over unnoticed : it commanded respect frora us all. His conduct too was in the same spirit when we parted from him, though then I admit it almost as much disappointed as astonished me : when the boat left the shore, he turned to ascend the beach, and without once looking back, walked as uncon cernedly and listlessly away, as though such things were to him every day sights. This want of curiosity is a very singular and I believe an alraost distinctive feature in the character of the native Australian. Among all other savages of whom I have read, or among whom I have had any oppor tunity of judging for rayself, except the inhabitants of Tierra del Fuego, a perpetual and never satisfied curiosity seeras to be the leading habit of their minds : here, however, wonder is rarely expressed, curiosity seldom apparent— yet their indifference is not stupidity, or their simplicity cunning. We had now been sufficiently long in Australia to know the value of a stream of water, and there fore always felt the necessity of particularizing the locality of any we had the good fortune to find ; from this one the extreraes of Bathurst Island bore N.W. and N.E, We now pulled for the opening on the east side of Bathurst Island, but finding the flood tide setting so strong through it frora the northward, I found it would be a waste of time to BATHURST ISLAND. 171 contend with it, and therefore proceeded to a hill on the east end of Bathurst Island, A large flock of white cockatoos screamed violently, as if wishing to dispute our landing, and it was not till their num bers had been thinned, of which our evening meal felt the benefit, that we could get any peace. We reached the summit of the island by following up a ravine, which formed the only break in the cliffs that faced the S.E. side of the island. There was a thick growth of red gums and the papyrus, on its sides, and near the surarait we found rocks con taining iron ; a vein of the same vitrified raatter I have described as seen at Swan Point, separated it from the prevailing rock of the island, which vvas coraposed of sandstone and fragments of quartz. The rocks containing metal had a strange appear ance, being heaped together in the form of a whirl pool ; the ground beneath appeared quite hollow. Our view was very coraraanding, and fully repaid us for the scramble up ; there was a clear sea to the N.E,, and bearing E.S.E. were some small islands, which I afterwards found to be situated near the depth of Collier Bay. The Macleay Isles of Captain King bore N.N.E, about six miles : between the latter and a group farther west, there was a clear wide channel, which appeared to lead between the island we were on and the next to the westward. As this was the first part of the coast, since leaving Port Usborne, that a sailing vessel could approach with out great risk, we proceeded to examine that chan nel more rainutely, and were sorry to find the exten- 172 NATIVE HABITATIONS, sive coral reefs which fronted the islands, left a space of only half a raile between ; a black pointed rock ten feet above high water, raarks the edge of the western reef, where it is covered by the tide ; keeping this close on the starboard hand, will con duct a ship into good anchorage in 13 and 15 fathoras. The rise and fall of the tide at this place, we found to be 22 feet. As we required another station on the west end of Bathurst Island, I ar ranged that we should pass the night in a small cove near its south-eastern extreme ; here we found several native habitations of a totally different and very superior description to any we had hitherto seen in any part of Australia ; they bore a marked reserablance to those I had seen on the S.E, coast of Tierra del Fuego, which was so striking as to be remarked even by some of the boat's crew, who had belonged to the Beagle in her wanderings on that storray coast. NATIVE RAFT, 173 Stout poles frora 14 to 16 feet high forraed the frarae work of these snug huts — for so indeed they deserve to be termed — these were brought together conically at the roof; a stout thatching of dried grass completely excluded both wind and rain, and seeraed to bespeak the existence of a cliraate at tiraes rauch more severe than a latitude of 16° 6*^ south, would lead one to anticipate. The remains of sraall fires, a well greased bark pillow, a head ornaraent of sea bird's feathers, together with several other trifling articles, strewn upon the floors of these wigwaras, proved that they had been very recently inhabited. But perhaps the most interesting discovery in this bay, was a native raft, which we found near the beach, in such a position as must have required the exertions of several men to have placed it there; being heavier than either of our boats. In the construction of this raft, almost everything had been left to nature. It was fraraed of the dead trunk of a mangrove tree, with three distinct stems growing from one root, about 18 feet long, and 4|- broad. The roots at one end closely entwined, as is the habit of the tree, forraed a suffi cient bulwark at the stem, while an elbow in the centre of the trunk, served the same purpose at the stern : a platform of sraall poles, well covered with dried grass, gave a sufficient flooring to this rude speciraen of a raft, I could not survey it without allowing my thoughts to carry me away in pleasing 174 RETURN TO PORT USBORNE. reflections upon the gradual progress of human ingenuity by the advance of which, the same intel lect that first contents itself with the mere floating of the single tree, at length shapes a forest into timbers and launches the floating fortress in triumph on the deep ! We were now about 40 miles in a direct line frora Port Usborne, and perhaps 7O by the winding course we were obliged to follow ; only two days' provisions remained, and as we were still deficient of material for the chart of this archipelago, I was reluctantly obliged to abandon the idea of attempting to reach Collier Bay. The mainland we had explored, since leaving Port Usborne, raay be described as forming eight bays, varying in depth from three to eight miles, and in width from two to five ; their general trend is E.S,E. ; many islets skirt their shores, and almost more than can be counted fill their mouths. March 26. — With the first grey of the morning we left Bathurst Island, on our return to the south ward. Whilst passing inside the cluster of isles of slate formation, we heard a " halloa," and on look ing in the direction from whence it proceeded, a native was observed on a raft : the boat's course was iraraediately altered so as to cut hira off should he attempt to escape, but to my great surprise he paddled towards us with all possible haste. He was soon alongside, and with great satisfaction we at once recognized our strange friend of yesterday, who amongst the boat's crew, went by the sobriquet THE NATIVE "YAMPEE." 175 of " Yarapee." He again raade use of the word Yarapee according to our orthography, and after repeating it several times, I offered hira sorae water, which he very eagerly accepted, twice erapty- ing a canister that had originally held 4lbs. of preserved raeat ; this afforded rae additional proof of Yampee being the word the natives of these parts use for water. At Swan River, the native name for water is gab-by, which differs so much as to lead us to suppose the dialect of the two places is quite distinct. This supposition is also borne out by the fact, that Miago, the native of Swan River we had on board, could never understand the lan guage spoken by his countrymen, on the western shore of King's Sound, We found our new acquain tance as yesterday, perfectly naked, the raft he was on was in every respect similar to that previously seen upon Rae's Group, with this slight exception, that between each pole several small pieces of wood were inserted so as to make the flooring of the raft almost smooth. Into the large end of the centre, and largest pole, six long pegs were driven, forming a kind of basket in which were secured his means for procuring fire ; they consisted of two pieces of white flint, and some tinder rudely manufactured from the inner bark of the papyrus tree. He used in paddling a short spear, sharp at each end, and struck the water alternately on either side ; in this priraitive manner he contrived to raake way with a rapidity that astonished us all. He had two 176 PARTING WITH THE NATIVE. spears on the raft, besides the one he used for paddling; one of them was about 12 feet long, also pointed at each end, though not barbed ; and a small stick, similar to that used by other natives for throwing at birds, and sraall animals. As well as we could understand by his signs, it appeared that he had been anxiously waiting our arrival, and had pushed off frora the raain to intercept the boat, on our leaving Bathurst Island. We threw hira a line, and he iraraediately coraprehended our inten tion, and its use, by at once making fast to the raft ; an instance of confident reliance upon our good intentions, which reflected much credit upon the unsuspicious openness of his own character, and which I should have exceedingly regretted by any act of ours to abuse. Had not the distance and our scant supply of food, rendered such a step impru dent, I should have been very glad to have towed him to the ship. I really believe he would have trusted himself with us, for that or a much longer distance ; but this could not be, and therefore, after endeavouring to make hira understand that we should sleep sorae distance to the south, where there was a larger boat, alluding to the ship, we filled his basket with bread, gave him as much water as he could drink, and bidding him farewell, reluc tantly cut him adrift : I shall not soon forget the sorrowful expression of his countenance, when this apparently inhospitable act was performed ; it did not seem however to quench his regard for his new NATIVE SPEARS. 177 friends, for so long as we could see him he was hard at work paddling in our wake. I noticed that the beads given him yesterday were gone ; this fact, coupled with " the smokes" seen during the day, satisfied me that he had friends in the neighbour hood, to whom I hoped he would report favourably of his new acquaintances ; we had certainly endea voured to obtain his goodwill. Simple hearted, trusting savage, farewell ! The following wood-cut represents the difference between the spear used by the natives of this district and those of Swan River. King's Sound. Swan River. We soon reached Whirlpool Channel, through which the tide again hurried and whirled us with almost frightful rapidity ; we were in one part of it shot down a fall of several feet, the boat's bow being fairly buried in the boiling current. Emerging from this channel the hoary face of the rem jjrkable head land already described, burst on our view ; and as it was necessary if possible to reach its surarait, we landed in a sraall bay, near the southern extremity. By following a winding ravine we gained the crest of this singular platform, which we found formed of a fine-grained sandstone, with some VOL. I. N 178 CASCADE BAY. beautiful specimens of crystallized quartz on its higher parts, over which was a slight sprinkling of vegetation, consisting of a few small gum trees and patches of coarse grass. The weather was unusually cloudy, with squalls from the N.E. ; towards the evening it was fine with a moderate breeze from E,S.E. As it was late when we reached the boat, we spent the night where we landed. March 27- — We were early on the move pursuing our southerly course, the morning being rather gloomy with a fresh N.E. wind, which raised a good deal of sea in the mouths of the larger bays. As the day closed we reached a cove half a mile north of Tide Race Point, wher^ we passed the night. March 28, — This morning the thermometer was down to 72° at daylight, which gave us the novel sensation of cold. It was late in the forenoon before the violent ripplings at Tide Race Point had sub sided sufficiently to allow of our passing it. The rate of the current at this point appeared at tiraes scarcely less than eight knots per hour, and travers ing a rocky ledge, extending to sorae islands, and nearly dry aj^low water, rendered it alraost irapas- sable, except when nearly high tide. In the after noon we reached the cascade discovered on our way to the northward, and frora which the bay within which it is received its narae. We spent an hour or two luxuriating in the thorough enjoyraent of a treat so rare, as this beautiful streara must be considered in North-western Australia. In the evening we RETURN OF THE BOATS. 179 continued our return to Port Usborne, by a channel leading frora the bottom of Cascade Bay into the large sheet of water first seen from Compass Hill ; our progress was arrested at its inner entrance by the violence with which the tide rushed through, and we were therefore obliged to pass another night in the boats. March 29. — We reached the ship this morning, entering Port Usborne by a narrow rocky channel, on its N.W. shore ; on the precipitous sides in this passage we noticed several of the Rock Kangaroo, We found that Mr, Usborne had returned three days before us : from his account of the islands he had visited, they appear to have the same sterile character as raost of those we had seen ; in other respects, his trip was void of interest, beyond that of surveying. During the absence of the boats, tidal and magnetic observations had been made, some specimens in natural history had been collected, and all that could in any way add to the interest of the expedition, had been as well attended to as the means placed at our disposal would allow. We closed at Port Usborne our explorations in King's Sound, the result of which enabled us to fill up the gap long existing in the charts of the North west coast of Australia, and which had for years been the theme of much ingenious geographical speculation. The result of our labours, if it had been less brilliant than eager anticipation at the onset led us to hope for, had nevertheless been on N 2 180 LEAVE POINT USBORNE. the whole satisfactory. The river Fitz-Roy, although not of the magnitude that we hoped to find, was still an undoubtedly valuable acquisition to our stock of geographical knowledge, and offered a way of access into the interior, of which we had availed ourselves to the extent of 90 railes, and which subsequent explorers raight yet further iraprove : while in many minor yet important matters, much had been done, and much seen, to more than com pensate for the disappointments and annoyances inseparable frora the pursuits of the adventurer. March 30. — The morning was unusually stormy, dark clouds rested upon the adjacent high land, while others no less portentous hurried past us on the wings of the tempest. Soon after breakfast, we bade adieu to the wild scenery of Point Usborne, and stood across the Sound, for our old anchorage on the north side of Point Cunningham, distant one and twenty miles. In the mouth of the harbour we passed over a coral knoll, having five fathoms on it. We did not, however, reach our destination till nearly 6, P.M., having been taken some distance up the Sound, by the flood tide. Our soundings in crossing varied from fifteen to twenty fathoms, chiefly over rocky ground. It rained almost all the day, and we had several sudden shifts of wind, from S.E. to N.W. Our first view of the western shore of the Sound was singular; Point Cunningham, and Carlisle Head, appeared like two high square looking islands. We anchored soon after high water, which appeared INTERVIEW WITH NATIVES. 181 to be about a quarter of an hour earlier than at Port Usborne, We remained at this anchorage till the 3rd of April, during which tirae several unsuccess ful hauls were raade with the seine, but some addi tions were raade to the collection of Natural History, particularly in the ornithological branch. It is not a little remarkable, that fish should be so scarce on this part of the coast, a facts also noticed by Captain King. April 1, — This raorning five natives raade their appearance on the beach. Captain Wickham and rayself went on shore, in order if possible to induce them to visit the ship : on landing he recognized thera for old acquaintances, and I gave the eldest of the party, a handkerchief upon which he seemed to have set his affections ; however when he under stood our wish for the company of himself and friends on board, he was with difficulty induced to retain it. None but those who have made the ex periraent, are aware of what has to be overcorae before any sort of intercourse can be carried on by signs ; or how often, among the most intelligent, the greatest mistakes must of necessity occur. 1 have since thought, remembering what passed during this interview, that while we were making signs to them that on board they would find soraething to eat, each man's fears suggested the probability of " a certain convocation," " not where he eats, but where he is eaten," and induced him to decline standing treat upon the occasion. 182 INTERVIEW WITH NATIVES. The singular manner these men had also of holding the face turned upwards, in order to escape the plague of flies, fully confirmed the truth of old Dampier's account of the manners of these people when he first discovered this part of the world. The eldest was the spokesman, or rather the signs- man of the party, and this is always the custora, so far as we have had an opportunity of judging. The word they make use of in bowing (which they did quite in an Eastern style), appeared to be irru irru : their breasts were scarred with deep horizontal cuts, such as we had previously noticed on the natives in Roebuck Bay. I was so much struck with the resem blance between these people and the natives of Tierra del Fuego, that I have been tempted to believe that the stream of population flowed thitherward from the continent of America. I ought to mention that when Captain Wickham and myself left the ship, in the hope of inducing the natives to return with us, Miago, hearing of the expected visit, immediately went below, and dressed himself to the best possible advantage. No sooner did the boat come alongside, than he appeared at the gangway, inquiring with the utmost possible dignity, " where black fellas ?" and was evidently and deeply mortified that he had no opportunity of " astonishing the natives." There has been a marked change in the weather, since the sun crossed the equator : we have had no repetitions of the easterly squalls, before so prevalent. THEIR PEACEABLE DISPOSITION. 183 and the winds have been almost regular in the follow ing order. From 3 p.m. to 1 a.m. a light breeze from S.S, W, which freshening alters toS,E. where it remains till 8 a.m, from that hour gradually decreasing, and at the sarae tirae changing to N.E, and N. The thermometer, for sorae days past has ranged from 72° to 89" ; a temperature which we thought a few months ago intolerable, was now quite agreeable. We looked forward with the utmost anxiety to the result of our arrival at Port George the Fourth, as there, or at least in that neighbourhood, we hoped to hear sorae tidings of our friends Grey and Lushington, who, when we separated from them at the Cape, intended to land in Hanover Bay, esta blish a depot for stores, and from thence penetrate if possible into the interior, I had no fear on the subject of any hostility from the natives, for in our own experience, we had as yet always found thera inoffensive and peaceable ; while should they prove otherwise, I was satisfied that a very slight acquain tance with the effects of gunpowder would be quite sufficient to quell their warlike propensities, but I did fear that they had chosen a very unfavourable point for debarkation, and that raany causes would corabine to arrest their progress into the interior. How unhappily my anticipations were verified, will be seen hereafter. Early on the morning of the 3rd, we left our anchorage under Point Cunningham, and by two 184 ADELE ISLAND. o'clock P.M., had worked through Sunday Strait, where we encountered its usual heavy tide races. At four o'clock in the afternoon, Caffarelli Island bore E.S.E., 9 miles distant: and about six, the wind, which through the day had been light and variable quite deserted us, when to avoid drifting back into the strait we anchored in 29 fathoms ; Caffarelli Island bearing S.S.E. 5 miles. The tide here appeared to be one hour earlier than in Sunday Strait : the flood set in a south-easterly, and the ebb in an opposite direction, at the rate of from half to one mile per hour. The 24th saw us again under weigh, by the light of the stars, but the wind being variable and against us, we did not get beyond Adele Island, where we anchored in 14 fathoras : the nearest part of it bearing N. 75° E. 3 miles. Brue Reef was seen in the course of the day, and appeared to be correctly laid down by Captain King : there appeared, how ever, some discrepancy in the position of Adele Island, the southern extremity of which we found to be in latitude 15° 32' 30" S., which is one mile and a half to the southward of the place assigned to it in his chart. The sea was breaking heavily on the reef, which fronts the island for a distance of two miles. The island itself is low, desolate and barren. We noticed there was scarcely any set of tide at this anchorage. During the day's progress we found several coral ledges, in from 11 to 13 fathoms, and trending N,E. by E., BEAGLE BANK, 185 and with from 25 to 35 fathoras between thera. The specimens of this beautiful submarine pro duction brought up by the lead, were of the most delicate kind, nor on any occasion did the lead pre sent any appearance to indicate that it had fallen araong a coarser sort. One beautiful fragment was obtained in Sunday Strait in 30 fathoms, a depth at which living coral is rarely found. April 5. — Daylight on the 5th found us standing to the eastward — E,N,E with a light northerly wind, in soundings ranging from 14 to 40 fathoms, and over a bottom of white and brown sand in the deep, and coral rock in the shoal water. In the afternoon we had the good fortune to discover one of the reefs, which render the navigation of this part of the coast rather hazardous. The position of this danger, is however well raarked by a bank of very white sand and dead coral, from which the reef extends two miles and a half, in a N,N.W, and one mile in a S,S,E. direction ; and which rising sorae 15 feet above the mean level of the blue surrounding water, became a conspicuous object frora our deck, even at the distance of six miles. We gave our discovery the name of Beagle Bank, as another memorial of the useful services in which our little vessel had been so frequently engaged, and our obser vations enabled us to fix the centre of it in latitude 15°20'S., longitude 123° 36' E. We anchored in the evening in 16 fathoms, the bank distant Si miles in a S, by E. direction : half a mile nearer 186 SHOAL SOUNDINGS. to it, we found only 4 fathoms. The tide rose at this anchorage 12 feet. The flood stream began by setting to the S.S.W,, and ended at S.E, by E, The ebb set W, by N., and the utmost strength of stream never exceeded one mile per hour. It was high water at 10 o'clock p.m., and the stream changed at the same time. The tide was therefore two hours later here than in the entrance to King's Sound, from which it would appear that the tidal wave approaches this coast frora the W.S.W. April 6. — ^We made slight progress towards Port George the Fourth, during the forenoon ; the water deepening to 20 and 30 fathoms, soon after we had weighed. We espied a ridge extending to the S.E. from Beagle Bank, which supplies another fact in support of the opinion I have before advanced, and which gives a north-westerly trend to these ledges. The wind failing, and the ebb tide drifting us again to the westward, in sight of Beagle Bank, the anchor was dropped 4|- miles E. by N. of it, and in a depth of 12 fathoms, to which we had suddenly shoaled from 29, this position raarked the limit of shoal soundings in an E, by N. direction frora Beagle Bank. Between sunset and raidnight we were able to make 17 miles, in an E. by N, direc tion, when a contrary tide, and an accompanying calm, compelled us to anchor in 31 fathoms : the soundings during the run had varied from 35 to 39 fathoras : the bottom, latterly a soft mud, of a dirty TRAFALGAR AND WATERLOO. 187 grey colour. A twilight star placed our position 17 miles west of Red Island, which corresponded with the bearings at daylight. April 7. — The wind being still very light, we were compelled to wait for the flood tide, which did not favour us till a quarter past six in the morning. The last direction of the ebb stream was north. It was nearly dark before we reached our anchorage, in 18 fathoms, one mile from Point Adieu : on our way material was secured for laying down the sea-face of the Champagny Islands, Red Island brought to our recollection Captain Heywood, by whora this part of the Australian continent had been seen, and of whose earlier career a notice will be found in Sir John Barrow's interesting narrative of the Mutiny of the Bounty. The soundings during the entire day, ranged from 27 to 30 fathoms, and the character of the bottom was similar to that last described. Our observa tions for latitude did not verify our position by the chart, though all its bearings and distances appeared relatively correct. The discrepancy raay perhaps be ascribed to the effect of refraction, as we were prevented by the land frora observing on both horizons. The most remarkable objects in this neighbourhood, were two hills, naraed by Captain King, Mount Trafalgar, and Mount Waterloo, to record in one hemisphere, two raeraorable events, not likely to be easily forgotten in the other : although assuredly the time will come when the 188 THE BROWN ISLANDS. peaceful triumphs of science and civilization, of which these naraes are here enduring witnesses, will be far more highly valued, and far more truly honoured ! Mount Trafalgar made its first appear ance in the form of a huge quoin or wedge, resting longitudinally upon the horizon, with its point towards the south-east. Among other memoranda for the improveraent of the chart of this coast, it should be noted that the reef extending to the N.W, frora Jackson's peaked Island, appears to join the small islands lying near it in that direction, and to which, from their colour, we gave the narae of The Brown Islands. As there was every probability of the ship being detained in this neighbourhood for some days, searching for traces of Lieutenants Grey and Lush- ington's party, and as the examination of Collier Bay, where we still hoped to find an opening lead ing into the interior, would prevent the necessity of our return to this part of the coast, I applied to Captain Wickham, for permission to proceed with the two whale boats on that service. A wound on the foot had in some degree unfitted rae for any very active duty, but I felt satisfied that the oppor tunity— perhaps.the last I might have — ought not to be undervalued or neglected. April 8.— By daylight on the 8th, the boats had left the ship, and were standing to the southward among the islands. Our party consisted of Mr, Helpman, Mr, Fitzmaurice and myself. Passing BRECKNOCK HARBOUR, 189 through the eastern part of Port George the Fourth, we entered Roger Strait, which led into a large sheet of water, forming a beautiful harbour ; we landed to obtain a better view of it, on a small island at the southern entrance of this strait. This islet looked truly inviting, being clothed with long rich grass, which to our cost we found concealed boulders of granite ; this was the first time we met with this primitive rock, and from the colour of the surrounding heights it was evident we were in an old red sandstone region. Strange to say the at traction on this island rendered our compasses quite useless ; we noticed on its N,W. side a portion of the wreck of a small vessel. There was a small mangrove inlet in the S.E. corner of this harbour, over which the land was low, forming a gap in the neighbouring heights. We now pushed on for an island lying in the entrance of the harbour, bear ing W. by N. 6 miles ; our soundings in passing over this part (of what we afterwards called Brecknock Harbour, as Captain King had named the entrance of it Camden Sound, from a distant view he had of it,) gave a depth of 7 fathoras, over an even muddy bottom ; but towards and in the entrance it increased to 13 fathoms. The island we now landed on, we called from its situation. Entrance Island. From a high part overlooking its steep southern side we had a very commanding view. The centre of a string of small islets bore north one mile ; there extended 2 miles in a west direction, frora the north point of 190 ENTRANCE ISLE, the harbour ; both these and Entrance Isle escaped Captain King's notice, owing to the distant view he had of this part of the coast, A point bearing S,W, distant 3 miles, was the extrerae of the main land that we could see in the direction we were going. We found the sandstone of this Island not of the same ancient red colour as that on the shore front ing it. One boat was eraployed in the raeantime sounding the entrance of the harbour, which we found to be 2 miles across, and frora 9 to 1 5 fathoras deep ; the mouth ofit faces the W,N,W., Entrance Isle lying half a mile outside its points, with a clear channel nearly a mile wide, on either side of it. About a quarter of a mile off the main, and front ing the south side of this island, there is a singular needle-shaped rock, 20 feet high, marking the outer extreme of a coral ledge, which is covered at high water. As it now blew a fresh breeze from seaward, and the afternoon was far advanced, we spent the remainder of the day in a further exami nation of the entrance. We were much pleased with the result of our evening's work, finding the approach to this fine harbour quite free from danger, and capable of adraitting vessels of any size ; there were no reefs or islets seaward of it to add to the anxiety of the navigator, or lessen the value of our discovery ; the importance of which will be greatly enhanced, should Lieutenants Grey and Lushington have the good fortune to discover any land fit for colonization in its neighbourhood. Our labours SLATE ISLANDS. 191 here closed with observations for a boat rate, for the chronometers and latitude, the latter being 15° 27' i S. on a sandy beach at the eastern side of Entrance Isle. April 9, — We rounded the extrerae point to the S.W. seen from Entrance Isle at sunrise ; the rocks on this point were arranged quite in the form of a fort, from whence it received the name of Battery Point ; another group of islands now carae in view, bearing from Battery Point S.W. by S. about 4 miles ; these we named Slate Islands, from their singular formation. They extended one mile N.W. from a point of land ; between them and Battery Point, the coast fell back forming two bays, crossing the mouths of which we had 13 fathoms. On pass ing Slate Islands, we saw a head-land, named by Captain King Point Hall, bearing S. by W. ^ W. distant 8 miles. It has a high peaked and isolated appearance, being separated frora the contiguous high land by a low neck. We passed a bay 2 railes wide on its north-eastern, and a snug cove on its south-eastern side. It was past noon and we were glad to see the stagnant calm, that had for hours reigned around, dispelled by the sea breeze which now darkened the horizon. Our course, during the afternoon was S. by E. along a low rocky coast, but as we had to contend with a three knot tide, we did not get farther than a small sandy cove, bearing S, by E. 9 miles from Point Hall, by the close of the day, which was the only spot we had seen the whole of 192 FRESH WATER COVE. the afternoon capable of affording shelter for the boats. We were agreeably surprised to find a stream of water running into the head of this cove, as the parched appearance of the low hills over it did not lead us to expect such good luck, in remem brance of which we called it Fresh Water Cove, Landing, I hastened to the south point of the cove, to secure the necessary data for the chart, before the surrounding objects were veiled in darkness. We again appeared to be in a sterile white sandstone region, where, with the exception of a few land birds, there was a total absence of animal life, and almost that of the vegetable, for even the gura trees coraraon in this part, were not to be seen. Our view to the southward was very limited, erabracing only the Montgomery Islands of Captain King ; they consist of six small rocky islets resting on an extensive coral flat, that we afterwards observed to be dry at low water, and which extended to a large low sandy island, lying six miles west from them ; the latter was not seen by Captain King, in his distant view of this neighbourhood. The eastern and largest of the Montgomery Isles stands on the extreme of the coral flat ; we found it to be 70 feet high, and bore S.W, by S, 7 miles from this point of Fresh Water Cove. The latitude we obtained in the course of the night gave a result of 15° 49' south. April 10. — At daylight we continued pursuing our S. by E. course, following the same kind of LIZARDS. 193 low straight rocky shore, as that of yesterday after noon. We passed inside a reef fronting the shore frora a mile south of Fresh Water Cove ; this pas sage was about half a mile wide and from 7 to 12 fathoms deep. Having the flood tide in our favour, we proceeded rapidly, and at the end of four miles, found the trend of the coast suddenly changed to E.N.E, for two miles, when it again took a southerly direction, forming a chain of high rocky islets. Deferring our exaraination of the main, lying about a mile in the rear of these islets, we kept on our S. by E. course, in the direction of sorae very high land now seen for the first tirae. Three miles further brought us to a small rocky islet, where we landed for a set of angles. Our hopes were considerably raised on reaching the top of this islet, by finding that we looked in vain for land towards the head of Collier Bay ; the high land to the southward proved to be the south point of a large bay, having on its northern side similar high ranges. This island was over run with a great variety of lizards, in conse quence of which we naraed it Lizard Island. During our stay here, two birds,* rare on this part of the coast, were shot ; they were of a smaller kind than any I had before seen, and differed from them in pluraage, being without the white collar round the neck. Leaving Lizard * Hsematopus Picatus, described in the Appendix to Captain King's work on Australia. VOL, I. O 194 HEAD OF COLLIER BAY, Island, we continued our southerly route, and ere long saw more land ahead, lying like a blue cloud on the horizon. Ten miles brought us abreast of the high land we had first seen, and six more to the southern point of a bay, lying on its south-western side, where the duties of the survey again obliged us to land. We considered ourselves now enter ing once more on the new lands of Australia, as Captain King could scarcely have had even a dis tant glimpse of this part ; his extreme southern position being abreast of Fresh Water Cove, from whence he describes the view of the coast as follows, " The land to the southward trended deeply in, and appeared to me much broken in its character," We therefore naturally looked on every thing here with a greater degree of interest, and with the view of affording time to examine the country, and determine the position of this point by observation, I arranged to pass the night in its vicinity. The view from this station, blighted our hopes of finding an opening leading into the interior from Collier Bay, for we could trace the land all round the head of it, forraing high ranges without a single break. This mal-a-propos discovery, raaterially diminished the pleasure we had before experienced, on first seeing a new part of the continent. About twenty miles west frora where we stood, were a group of islands, which I was able to identify as those seen frora Bathurst Island, near the eastern entrance point of King's Sound ; they appeared to extend about ten AN EAGLE SHOT. 195 miles in a northerly direction, frora the western point of Collier Bay. Whilst using the theodolite, we carae within the searching glance of a hungry eagle, which soaring over our heads for some time, at length swooped within range of our guns, when he paid for his curiosity with the loss of his life. This was the only rapacious bird we saw in Collier Bay, and appears to be of the species i^aZco leucogaster Lathara.* On examination, the storaach contained fish and part of a small snake, and from what I have since observed this bird frequents the sea coast. Their nests are very large, built on bare spots in the shape of a pyramid ; some of them measuring three feet in diameter, and six high. To convey a better idea of the size and exposed situation of the nests of these birds, I may state that on low parts of the coast, they were often used as sur veying raarks. This projection, which we called Eagle Point, is of a silicious sandstone forraation, intersected by nearly vertical veins of quartz, and forras a spur thrown off frora a high range four miles to the south-eastward. We did not find any water in the few railes of country traversed in the course of the afternoon, yet everything wore a rich green appearance, and the scenery in sorae of the dells we crossed, was very picturesque, and quite alive with birds and insects ; flights of raany- coloured parrokeets swept by with a rapidity that * Figured in Mr. Gould's work on the Birds of Australia as Ichthyiaetws leucogaster. o 2 196 THE SEA BREEZE. reserabled the rushing sound of a passing gust of wind, Araong the trees, I noticed for the first time the Banksia, common in Western Australia; Mr. Cunningham, the botanist who accorapanied Captain King, did not consider its indigenous empire ex tended to the N.W. coast. Of the other kinds, and which complete all the variety we observed on this part of the continent, were the miraosa, acacia, papyrus, and two sorts of Eucalyptus ; there were also several plants of the order Legurainosse. We had a breeze throughout the entire day, from N.E, till 1 o'clock. then W.N.W, till near midnight ; this westerly or sea breeze, reached us within ten rainutes of the tirae it did yesterday, a regularity we found to pre vail the few days we spent on this part of the coast. The tide (being near the spring) fell in the night 36 feet, leaving the greater part of the bay dry at low water. Our observations for latitude placed Eagle Point in 16° 10^' south, April 11, — We left with the first streak of dawn, and pursued our course to the southward, passing inside a sraall reef lying half a raile west from Eagle Point. The eastern shore now took a S, by W. direction, forming shallow bights, flanked by hills of moderate elevation ; our next station was an islet at the head of Collier Bay, bearing S.S.W. ^ W, 15 railes frora Eagle Point: it was in the raouth of a shoal bay about three railes deep in a W.S,W. direction, the shores of which were lined with mangroves and overlooked by a NARROW INLET. 197 high rocky ridge. The width of Collier Bay, at its entrance 20 miles, was here only six. The western shore ran in a N.W. by W, direction, a straight rocky coast, over which rose abruptly a range of barren heights. The tide stream gradually weakened as we approached the head of the bay, where it scarcely exceeded half a knot, and the soundings decreased to seven fathoms, with a kind of rauddy sand bottom ; but the clearness of the water, and the equal duration of the flood and ebb streams, afforded the most conclusive evidence of the small opening we now discovered in the S.E. corner of the bay being nothing more than an inlet. It bore frora this islet E.S.E. four miles, yet as a drowning raan catches at a straw, so did we at this inlet, and were soon in the entrance, which we found to be half a mile wide, with a very strong tide rushing out. After some difficulty we landed on a high rocky island in the mouth of it, the sumrait of which afforded us a good view of the inlet, which within the entrance widened out and was about two railes deep. A point prevented our seeing the eastern extreme, which Mr, Helpman was sent to exaraine ; he found it extended two miles in an E.N.E, direction, and like the other parts of it, to be lined with a scanty growth af mangroves, and flanked by high rocky land. The shape of this inlet resembles that of a bottle with a broad base, and being subject to a tidsil change of level of 36 feet, it is easy to imagine with what 198 RETURN OF THE BOATS. violence such a body of water must rush through the narrow entrance to keep on a level with the slow, moving waters of the bay outside. The cause of this great rise of tide in the head of Collier Bay, may be attributed to there being no escape for the vast body of water flowing into it. The land over the depth of this inlet which I have before spoken of, as being barren rocky heights, bounded our view to the southward ; it bore S.S.E. three miles, and lies in lat, 16° 25' S, and long. 124° 25' E. being the farthest point we deterrained towards the centre of the continent. The extreme position reached in that direction by Lieut. Lushington of Lieut. Grey's expedition, bears from this point, N. 64° E. fifty railes. Thus terrainated our explorations in Collier Bay, and although we had not the good fortune to find it the outlet of sorae large opening leading into the interior, still we succeeded in setting at rest the speculation, such a deep indentation of the coast line had hitherto afforded, and increased our geographical knowledge of this part of the continent 35 miles. In the afternoon we commenced our return to Port George the Fourth, from which we were then distant about 80 railes ; after delaying to examine two islands lying N, by E. four miles from the inlet, of slate formation, we reached a narrow point six railes further down the bay, in tirae to save a true bearing from the sun's amplitude. We were surprised to find this point RAFT POINT. 199 also composed of the same kind of grey slate. The islands we examined differed frora those of the same formation in King's Sound, having steep precipitous sides to the N.W. instead of to the S.E. As it was by this time nightfall we did not proceed farther. April 12. — Towards the morning there was a S.E, breeze which brought the thermoraeter down to 76° ; it generally ranged between 80° and 96". The large bay discovered on our way to the south ward now becarae the point of interest, and as day light closed in the boats were secured in a small sandy cove, just within its southern point, where there were several native rafts, constructed pre cisely in the same manner as those seen in King's Sound, frora which circumstance we called the place Raft Point. Iraraediately over it was the high land first seen in coraing down the bay ; huge masses were rent from its lofty frowning crags, on which the rays of the setting sun produced the most grotesque figures. A beautiful stream of water fell into the sea, in leaping cascades, half a mile inside the cove. Several rock kangaroos were seen on the heights ; and after securing observa tions with sorae early stars, for latitude, which placed Raft Point in 16° 4' S., we tried an experi ment to get a shot at the kangaroos, by setting fire to the grass and small wood growing at the base, and in the interstices of the rocks. This part of the country being very dry, a fire was soon 200 A CONFLAGRATION. kindled, and in a few minutes the cliffs resounded with the noise of the flames, as they darted fiercely upwards, revealing their riven sides, and occasionally bursting out behind large masses of strange figured rocks to the no slight risk of our sportsmen, who were perched upon them. Sea birds, frightened from their resting places, screamed fearfully, and the dismal howl of the wild dog, equally alarmed, soraetiraes fell on the ear araidst the roaring of the dangerous eleraent, which in the intense darkness of the night we could not but adraire. Whilst gazing on this wild scene, I could not help specu lating on the probable cause the natives would assign for this great conflagration; the bright glare of which must have extended over several miles of country, perhaps alarming and doubtless causing deep consultation amongst the wise men of their tribes. It raay also have taxed their power of invention, as they never use large flres in the night, except in wild stormy weather, when the creaking trees, and moaning wind, give them a dread of a visit frora the Evil Spirit. April 13. — Being anxious to examine the range over the cove, I desired Mr. Helpman to explore the N.E. corner of this large bay, and the main lying behind the islands, fronting the coast to the north ward of it. We accordingly moved off on our several occupations at an early hour. After much difficulty Mr. Fitzmaurice and myself found ourselves on a table land of sandstone formation, elevated by mea- DOUBTFUL BAY. 201 surement 900 feet above the sea level, and by far the highest land yet noticed on this part of the con tinent ; the prospect here was very cheerless ; similar but lower ranges met the eye in every direc tion towards the interior, those overlooking the eastern shore of the bay, were from 6 to 700 feet high. There appeared to be a large island in its N.E. corner, which fell back about 10 railes, and like raany other parts of it was lined with a growth of mangroves. A string of smaller islands extended three miles from the north point, leaving an entrance only two miles wide. A sandstone ridge similar to that on which we stood, rose abruptly from the north point, but of less elevation, I was not a little surprised to find that Lieut. Grey had seen land from 2 to 3000 feet high, only about 30 miles from the height on which we stood, but as he had not the means of measuring these great elevations, and as Captain King, who was within 20 railes of the high land alluded to, does not notice it, yet mentions some hills from 3 to 400 feet high, 15 miles further to the N.E., I ara induced to believe that Lieut. Grey may have over-estimated the height of the land he saw.* From subsequent inforraation, I called this Doubtful Bay ; the tide ran into it at the rate of frora 1 to 3 knots, but the clear appearance of the water, and entire absence of drift wood, afforded strong grounds * Mounts Trafalgar and Waterloo, which are not nine hundred feet high, are the first points of the continent that meet the eye from seaward. 202 MR, HELPMAn's REPORT. for supposing that it did not receive the waters of any river. Leaving Raft Point, we crossed over to the islands on the opposite side, for a few angles on their southern extreme, and afterwards made the best of our way to Fresh Water Cove. The day had, however, closed iu long before arriving there, and in the extreme darkness of the night the Cove was difficult to find. Indeed my companions could not believe we were there until one of the men returned with a keg of water from the stream in the head of it, Mr. Helpman joined us at sun-set, and gave the following report of his proceedings: "on leaving the cove at Raft Point, we passed along the south shore for two miles, and landed on a point that afforded a most commanding view of the bay, and the openings in its N,E. corner, which appeared to be forraed by a large island lying near the shore. This supposition afterwards proved to be correct, on landing at a point fronting its western extrerae, frora whence I was enabled to trace the shore round the N.E. corner of the bay, till I identified it as the same we had seen on the eastern side of the island frora the station just left. From the still and discoloured state of the water, I felt satisfied there v^as no opening in the N.E. corner of this bay. I am, however, willing to admit it may have been raore satisfactory to others if there had been sufficient time at ray disposal to have actually gone round the island. We now hastened off to MOUTH OF THE GLENELG, 203 examine the main land, lying behind a chain of islands to the northward, where we also failed to discover an opening." As this account of Mr. Help- man's coincided with the opinion I had forraed of the other parts of the coast, I was induced at that tirae to corae to the conclusion that the river Glenelg which I found Lieuts. Grey and Lushington had discovered, on ray return to the ship, did not comraunicate with the sea in this neighbourhood, as Lieut. Grey had supposed, but took a S.W. direc tion, flanking Collier Bay, and terrainating in the mangrove openings on the eastern shore of Stokes' Bay in King's Sound. My opinion was strengthened by Lieut. Lushington having seen frora his furthest position (which has already been given), a very high bluff point to the southward, distant 6 or 7 railes, and a line of cliffs under which he conceived that an opening of the sea or a river may run. Further experience has convinced rae of the great difficulty attending the discovery of the raouths of rivers in Australia, and as Mr. Helpraan did not actually visit the N.E, corner of Doubtful Bay, (named in consequence), I am inclined to believe there is a possibility of the mouth of the Glenelg still being found there. April 14, — We were on our way to Point Hall before the eastern hills had received their golden hue from the rays of the rising sun, and landed to ascend the summit of that headland frora the bay, on its S,E, side, which proved to be 204 REMARKABLE TREE. a safe anchorage, except with S,W. winds, having a small islet in its centre. We ascended the height, on the lee side, and as the sun was now ap proaching the zenith the heat became very oppres sive ; but the air was quite perfuraed with the rich fragrance of different guras. This warra aromatic odour we always experienced in a slighter degree on first landing in North-western Australia. I noticed a tree quite new to me, it was of stunted growth, bearing a fruit reserabling a sraall russet apple, which hung in clusters at the extremity of small branches ; the skin was rough, covering a pulp that had an acid flavour, inside of which was a large stone, and I observed a white fluid exuded from the branches when broken. Although this was almost a solitary tree, 1 have since learnt it grows in the southern parts of the continent. As the woodcut and description given in page 82, Vol. I. of Sir Thomas Mitchell's work on Australia, is alraost identical with this fruit, it raust be indigenous to a great extent of country, since Sir Thomas Mitchell found it in latitude 29° 50' S. whilst by us it was discovered in 15° 40' S. We did not observe any other change in the vegetation on this point ; of birds we saw but few, chiefly parrots, some of which we shot. A coast range of brown grassy hills prevented our seeing any thing of the interior. To seaward there was neither islet nor reef to interrupt the blue surface of water that bounded our view in the far north-west. THE SLATE ISLES. 205 Descending we erabarked from a cove on the N, E, side, where the boats had been ordered to meet us ; between this and one on the opposite side there was only a narrow neck of low land. It is singular that we should not have seen any natives, or even traces of them anywhere excepting at Raft Point, during: the whole of this cruise. Pursuing our northerly course, we reached a small group of islands, named from their forraation. Slate Isles. Finding that all the raaterial required here for the chart could not be collected this evening, I desired Mr. Helpraan to go on to Breck nock harbour, to sound and examine its southern shore the next raorning, whilst Mr. Fitzmaurice and rayself remained to complete the survey here abouts. April 15. — We were on the top of the northern Slate Island early ; a small islet with a reef off its northern extreme, bore north a mile and a half, and a low sandy isle, W. j N. about 15 railes ; this was a raost unwelcome discovery, as it lay in the track of vessels approaching Brecknock Harbour, and which Captain King raust have passed very close to in the night without being aware of it. We were fortunate in being able to intersect our lines to the extremes of all the islands forming the north side of Caraden Sound from this station, which rendered it one of great iraportance. Of the interior we saw even less than frora Point Hall, and the prospect if possible was raore cheerless. 206 fertile; country. Our again meeting rocks of transition origin, led us to infer that the soil in the neighbourhood was of a better quality, as the decomposition of rocks of this class furnishes a much more fertile soil than sandstone of recent formation. Leaving the Slate Islands, we reached Entrance Isle, in Brecknock Harbour, ip time to secure ob servations for the rates of the chronometers, which we found had been performing admirably ; they placed the sandy bay on the east side of Entrance Isle, in longitude 124° 30' E. ; the latitude as before given, 15° 27i' S. At this place Mr. Help- man rejoined us, having completed the exaraination of the south shore of the harbour ; from a high hill over it he discovered some fine country, bearing E.S.E, about eight miles. In speaking of it, he says, " I was invited to the top of this hill by the certainty of a good view of the interior over the low land forraing the south-eastern shore of the harbour, and raost amply was I repaid for the toil of ascending it, by feasting my eyes on a raost luxuriant well-watered country, lying at the eastern foot of a reraarkable peak, visible from Port George the Fourth, To the N.E, there lay a range of hills,* apparently of no great elevation. Part of this rich land extended to within five miles of the south eastern part of Brecknock Harbour." The prox iraity of such fertile land to this fine port was of * Macdonald Range of Lieut. Grey, considered by him 1400 feet high. BRECKNOCK HARBOUR. 207 great iraportance, and induced us to consider it a great addition to our discoveries in north-western Australia, Under this impression, I trust the fol lowing brief description of it raay not be without its value in the eyes of sorae of ray readers. Brecknock Harbour is six railes deep, extending gradually from a width of one and three quarter miles at the entrance to five at the head, and has a depth of water varying frora five to seven fathoms, with a soft muddy bottora. The few observations on the tides our short visit afforded, make the tirae of high water, on full and change day, about half- an-hour before noon, when the rise is nearly thirty feet, and the strength of stream in the entrance nearly two knots. April 16, — Although very anxious to learn if they had in the ship heard any thing of Lieut. Grey's party, still I did not like to break through ray usual rule of indulging in a thorough cleansing of men and boats, before making our appearance on board, we therefore did not make an early start. In clearing Roger Strait, we heard the cry of a native, who was seen with the aid of a spy-glass, perched on a distant cliff, watching our movements. I scarcely believed it possible to have heard his shrill voice so far. We reached the ship, lying in Port George the Fourth, early in the afternoon, and found on board a most welcome addition to our little party, in the person of Lieut. Grey. I met him again, with feelings of the greatest satisfaction ; 208 LIEUTENANT GREY. for though none were, perhaps, fully aware of it, a feeling of despondency as to the fate of hiraself and his corapanions, had raore than once occurred to rae, which each day's delay rauch increased, and which this agreeable rencounter at once effec tually reraoved. Poor fellow ! gaunt misery had worn him to the bone ; and I believe, that in any other part of the world, not rayself alone, but Lieutenant Grey's most intimate friends, would have stared at hira without the least approach to recog nition. Badly wounded, and half starved, he did, indeed, present a raelancholy contrast to the vigorous and deterrained enthusiast we had parted from a few months before at the Cape, to whom danger seemed to have a charra, distinct from success. No sooner had we ascertained the safety of the rest of the party, than, as might be supposed, we fell into a long and aniraated conversation upon the success of the expedition. They had discovered a river, called by thera the Glenelg, and a tract of fine country, which, from Lieut, Grey's description, I instantly recognised as being the same Mr, Help raan had seen frora Brecknock Harbour. A spot, sixty railes in a S.S.E, direction from Hanover Bay, indicates their furthest distance towards the interior. The rugged nature of the country in the neighbourhood of this coast, and its vast distance from the interior, frora whence it is further reraoved than any other part of the continent^ LIEUTENANT GREY. 209 justify the expression of an opinion that this was an ill-chosen spot for the debarkation of an expedition for inland research ; though unquestionably its proxiraity to our East Indian possessions, would make it, if suitable in other respects, a most valu able spot for colonization. I shall always regret that Lieut. Grey and his companions had not the advantage of starting from the Fitz-Roy, or explor ing yet further the unknown course of the Victoria, by which I am now convinced, a most successful attempt to reach the interior might be made. Alas ! while we cannot but regret the prodigal sacrifices of health and energy made to acquire such a limited knowledge of a part of the continent, hitherto utterly unknown, we raust not forget to do justice to the perseverance which opposing obstacles could defeat, but not daunt ; and in what it did accomplish, furnished additional motives to renewed exertion, and useful suggestions by which more fortunate followers may reap the success deserved by, though denied, to the first adventurers. The worn and haggard aspect of Lieut. Grey and all his companions, spoke of itself how severe had been the hardships they were called on to en dure : I need not say that their wants were relieved with the utmost eagerness of frank hospitality, and that their tales of " hair-breadth 'scapes" and " moving accidents" awoke all ears, and stirred in every heart. To meet with a countryman in a foreign land, is of itself generally an agreeable incident : the VOL, II. P 210 LIEUTENANT GREY. tones of one's native language, or the*reminiscences of one's earlier and happier years, which such ameet- ing recalls, are sure to bestow upon it a pleasure of its own. What was it then to meet a former fellow voyager, and a friend ? To meet him after almost despairing of his safety? and to meet hira fresh from a perilous and partially successful attempt to penetrate into the same unknown and mysterious country, a further and more perfect acquaintance with which was a prime object of my own personal arabition, no less than of public duty with all engaged in our pre sent adventure ? Those who have known the com munion of sentiment and interest, which it is the tendency of one common purpose to create among all by whora that purpose is shared, can most readily and raost perfectly understand with what deep and mutual interest Lieut, Grey and myself heard and recounted all that each had done since our parting at the Cape, Several anecdotes of his adventures confirmed ray own experience, and add weight to the opinions I have before expressed. From his description of the tribes his party had encountered, he must have been among a people more advanced in civilization than any we had hitherto seen upon this coast. He found several curious figures,* images, and draw ings, generally in colours, upon the sides of caves in the sandstone rock, which, notwithstanding their rude style, yet evince a greater degree of advancement and * Illustrated in Lieut. Grey's fir.st Volume. LIGHT-COLOURED NATIVES. 211 intelligence tlian we have been able to find any traces of : at the sarae tirae it must be reraerabered that no certain date absolutely connects these works with the present generation : the dryness of the natural walls upon which they are executed, and the absence of any atraospheric moisture may have, and may yet preserve thera for an indefinite period, and their history read aright, may testify not the present condition of the Australian School of Design, but the perfection which it had formerly attained, Lieut. Grey too, like ourselves, had seen certain individuals in company with the natives much lighter in colour, and widely differing in figure and physiognomy from the savages by whom they were surrounded ; and was inclined to believe that thev are descended from Dutch sailors, who at different times, suffering shipwreck upon the coast, have in termarried with its native inhabitants : but as no authentic records can be produced to prove that this portion of the coast was ever visited by Dutch navigators at all, I ara still more disposed to believe that these lighter coloured people are Malays, cap tured from the Trepang fishers, or perhaps volun tarily associating with the Australian, as we know that the Australian not unfrequently abandons his country, and his raode of life, to visit the Indian Archipelago with thera. Before pursuing any further the train of specula tion in which my thoughts naturally enough arranged themselves, owing to this meeting . with Lieut. p 2 212 CAPTAIN wickham's Grey, it may be as well to advert io the circum stances nnder which he and his party were found by Captain Wickham. It seems that on moving into Port George the Fourth, the ship's guns were fired in order to apprize the wanderers, if within hearing, that friends and aid were at hand. These signals were heard on board the Lynher, and were at once rightly understood to denote the presence of the Beagle. At that time, however, the master of the Lynher. — the schooner which Lieut. Grey had char tered at the Cape, was hiraself in no small perplexity as to the fate of those he had transported to this lonely coast ; and was now growing exceedingly anxious at their non-appearance. The next morning, the Qth, — Captain Wickham started in the yawl for Hanover Bay, in order to pro secute the search at the point where he knew Lieut. Grey's depot was to be established, and on round ing the headland the first welcome object that met his eye was the schooner at anchor. Captain Wickham learnt from Mr, Browse the master, that the period for which the schooner was chartered having expired, he was only waiting the return of the expedition from motives of humanity. The further care of Lieut. Grey and his corarades was at once undertaken by Captain Wickhara, by whom it was determined, owing to the shortness of provisions on board the Beagle, to proceed to Timor on the return of the boats, in the hope of being able to revictual there, leaving some conspicuous record of MEETING -WITH LIEUT. GREY. 213 his recent visit, with hidden letters declaratory of his proceedings, and promising his speedy return. A party was immediately despatched on shore, and upon the face of the sandstone cliff they painted in characters of gigantic proportion, "Beagle Obser vatory, Letters S,E, 52 paces," Of necessity cora pelled to wait for the boats. Captain Wickham returned to the Beagle, On the morning ofthe 15th, Lieutenant Grey, ac corapanied by two of his party, raade his appearance upon the shores of Hanover Bay, after a twelve weeks wander in the interior; during whicb, great hard ships, fatigue, and peril had been undergone, and much curious and valuable inforraation collected. Hearing of the proximity of the Beagle, he lost not a moment, but hastened to assure Captain Wick hara that the whole party was safe, and spent the evening of the i5th — that previous to ray return — among those who sympathized with his sufferings, and heartily welcomed him once more on board. After the firstgreetings had been exchanged between us, Lieut. Grey professed the utmost anxiety to hear whether, during our late excursion in the boats, we had discovered the mouth of the Glenelg, the river first seen by him on the 2nd of March. I was of course corapelled to inforra him that we had found no trace of any river, although the coast frora Port George the Fourth to the bottom of Collier Bay, an extent of nearly one hundred miles, had been examined, and with the exception I have already noticed, too closely to adrait of mistake. 214 AN EVENING WITH LIEUT. GREY. The next afternoon I followed Lieut. Grey round to Hanover Bay, distant twelve miles from the Beagle's anchorage. On the passage I noticed that the remarkable bluff, spoken of by Captain King, had been omitted in the charts, and a low rocky point marked in its place. It was after sunset when we reached the schooner in Hanover Bay ; the greater part of the night was devoted to an examination of Lieut. Grey's plans of his expedition, and the drawings with which various events in it had been illustrated. All these were executed with a finished carefulness one could not have expected to find in works carried on in the bush, and under such varied circum stances of distraction and anxiety as had followed ml Lieut. Grey's footsteps : though terribly worn and ill, our opportune arrival, and the feeling that he was among those who could appreciate his exertions, seeraed already to operate in his recovery. Upon an old and tattered chart, that had indeed " done the state sorae service," we attempted to settle the pro bable course of the Glenelg, the knotty question held us for sorae hours in hot debate; but as in a pre vious paragraph, I have rendered my more deliberate opinions, I need not here recount the varied topics discussed during that momorable evening : but it may be readily imagined with how swift a flight one hour followed another, while I listened with eager impatience to Lieut. Grey's account of a country and people till now unknown even to English enterprise. He appears to have seen the same kind of grape-like THE ENCAMPMENT. 215 fruit* that we observed in King's Sound, I took the boat in the afternoon at high water to proceed to the encampment, which we were then able to approach within a quarter of a mile. It was situated in the depth of a creek, into which a clear and sparkling stream of fresh water poured its abundance : the shore was formed of enormous granite boulders, which rendered it hardly accessible except at high water ; and the red sandstone platform which is here the nature of the coast, was abruptly intersected by one of those singular valleys which give so marked and so distinctive a characteristic to Australian geo logy. The separated cliffs approach to within about a quarter ofa raile of each other, and then — still preserving their precipitous forra — recede some three miles inland, in a southerly direction, and there rejoining, make any passage frora Walker's Val- leyf" to the interior a barely practicable feat. The encampment consisted of a few roofless huts, placed irregularly upon a carpet of rich grass, whereon six Timor ponies were recruiting after the fatigues of a journey in which they appeared to have borne their full share of privation and danger. Their market able value was indeed but small, and Lieut. Grey had, therefore, determined to leave them behind in the unrestrained enjoyment of their natural freedom. * Grey's Australia, Vol. I. page 211, ]¦ So named by Lieut. Grey, to commemorate the services rendered by the surgeon of his party, in finding a road from it to the interjacent country. 216 TIMOR PONIES. My visit was made after the encampment had been finally abandoned, and the thought that a little spot once tenanted by civilized man was about to be yielded to that dreary solitude from which for a while he had rescued it, raade the pilgriraage a me lancholy one. The scene itself was in strict keeping with such thoughts— the rugged and lofty cliffs which frown down upon the valley — the flitting shadows of the watchful eagles soaring far over my head — and the hoarse murmurs of the tide among the rocky masses on the beach — all heightened the effects of a picture engraven on ray memory too deeply for time itself to efface. While the men were preparing for embarkation I strolled with Lieut. Lushington up the valley, a little beyond the late encarapment : the Timor ponies were busily engaged upon the fresh grass ; near the banks of a beautiful pool in which we both enjoyed a fresh-water bath, I noticed a sraall cocoa-nut tree, and some other plants, which he and his companions had benevolently endeavoured to naturalize here : they seeraed healthy enough, but I should fear the rank luxuriance of surrounding and indigenous vegetation will render the ultiraate well doing of the strangers exceedingly doubtful. Assisted by our boats the whole party erabarked in the early part of the afternoon, and appeared highly delighted to find themselves again on board the schooner. I was much impressed with the emphatic manner in which Lieut. Lushington bid the shore a hearty farewell. LEAVE PORT GEORGE THE FOURTH, 217 The same evening the Lynher was moved round to Port George the Fourth — thus affording us an oppor tunity of welcoming all our former fellow-voyagers once more on board the Beagle ; where we spent one of those delightful evenings, known only to those who have been long separated from the rest of the world. On the 9th we left Port George the Fourth on our return to Swan River, in corapany with the Lynher, in which Lieut. Grey and his party had arranged to proceed to the Mauritius, A finer port than this, in some respects, can hardly be imagined. Like Hanover Bay, over which, however, it possesses the advantage of an easier access from the sea, it affords safe anchorage, abundance of fresh water, plenty of fuel, and a fine beach for the seine : but the numerous islands and reefs which skirt this coast greatly reduce the value of both these har bours. The Master of the Lynher told me of cer tain tidal phenomena remarked by hira during his protracted visit to Hanover Bay : he had noticed that the highest tides always occurred on the fourth day after the full or change of the moon, and that they then attained a maximum height of twenty-five feet ; while during the neaps the difference between high and low water sometimes did not exceed twenty- four inches ! During the short time that we were in this neigh bourhood, the prevailing winds were frora S.E. and to E. from after raidnight till noon, and frora W. to 218 ISOLATED ROCK. N. until midnight. Our progress through the day was but slow ; the wind light and most provokingly foul at W. N.W. While standing towards a small island bearing N. and by W. five and a half miles from Point Adieu, we discovered a single rock with apparently deep water all around it, and just a wash at low water. It bore N.W, and by W. three- quarters of a mile from this island, which resembles Red Island, and Captain King's group ofthe Rocky Islands, in that calcined-like appearance which has by turns given them " red" and " brown" for a dis tinct appellation. In the afternoon we saw the sand bank laid down in Captain King's chart; it appeared a white rocky islet. The night was spent beating to the westward, between it and Red Island, against a light breeze, April 20, — At daylight, whilst standing to the S.W. the water shoaled rapidly though regularly from 20 to 6 fathoms, we then tacked, Red^Island bearing S.E. one mile and a quarter; in standing out (north) the water deepened suddenly and almost immediately to 15 fathoms. I imagine this shoal to be a continuation of one laid down by Captain King, extending two railes south frora Red Island : passing the latter on our way to Port George the Fourth we had 28 to 30 fathoms, two and a half miles from its N.W. side. Apjil 21. — We continued to make but little pro gress to the westward, scarcely averaging more than a mile per hour: the soundings indicating that we were REMARKABLE RIPPLINGS. 219 still on the coral ledge that skirts the whole of this coast, northward of Cape Leveque; on the raised parts of which are numerous reefs of an irregular size and almost invariably trending from W. to N.W. The number of these low coral reefs already known, and the probable number of those yet undiscovered, make this rather a dangerous sea, and must have a tendency to lessen the value of the N.W. coast of Australia for purposes of forraing settlements. In the afternoon we saw again the reef discovered and naraed after the Beagle. Steering W.N.W. we passed four railes frora its northern side in soundings vary ing from 41 to 47 fathoms. April 23. — Towards the close of this day we passed through a line of very remarkable ripplings, extending in a north and south direction, which we knew indicated some great inequality in the bottom, but whether from deep to shoal water was a matter of some anxiety ; therefore, with leadsmen in the chains and the men at their stations for working ship, we glided into this streak of agitated water, where plunging once or twice she again passed into the silent deep. We sounded ineffectually with 86 fathoms in the ripplings ; for some time before the soundings had been regular 52 and 55 fathoms fine sand, and four miles beyond it we had 146 fathoms, but did not succeed afterwards in reaching the bottom with 200 fathoras. This line of disturbed water, therefore, marks the edge of the bank of soundings fronting this part of the coast, from which 220 PART FROM THE LYNHER, the nearest point. Cape Leveque, bore S.E. 195 railes. The Lvnher having to pursue a more westerly course, we were of necessity, though reluctantly, obliged to part company this evening : the few evenings we passed together at sea were rendered very pleasant and amusing by the crews singing to each other as the vessels, side by side, slipped stealthily through the moonlit waters. April 24. — Still pursuing a W.S.W. course, at the slow rate of forty miles daily, our position at noon was lat, 15" 40' S, long, 120° 41' E. During the day we passed within fifteen miles of the Lively's reef, and from the numbers of terns and other small sea birds, seen for the last three days, there can be little doubt of its whereabouts being known, and that during that time we had been in the neigh bourhood of other reefs still undiscovered, April 27. — We experienced the long rolling swell of the Southern Ocean, which, as well as our reckoning, informed us we were roundino- N.W, Cape; at the same time we began to feel a steady breeze from the S,E, and the northerlv current which tl there prevails. As we were now approaching the usual track of vessels bound from Australia to India, we were not unprepared for the somewhat unusual sight of a strange sail : an object always of some little interest, but which becoraes quite an event to those whose duty leads them into the less frequented por tions of the deep. The increasing trade now carried on between Sydney and " the gorgeous East," has con- THE TRYAL ROCKS. 221 verted the dividing sea into a beaten track ; and as no further evidence has been brought forward to confirm the reported existence of the Tryal Rocks, asserted to lie directly in the course steered by vessels raaking this passage, I cannot but adhere to Captain King's opinion, that Tremouille Island and its outlying reefs, situated in the same latitude as that in which the Tryal Rocks are supposed to lie, have originated the mistake ;* one, be it observed, of longitude, in which particular the accounts of earlier navigators must always be received with caution. While our return to Swan River was thus baffled and delayed by the long and almost unbroken con tinuance of foul winds, it afforded some diversion to watch the countenance and conduct of Miago, who was as anxious as any one on board for the sight of his native land. He would stand gazing steadily and in silence over the sea, and then sometimes, perceiv ing that I watched him, say to me, " Miago sing, by and by northern men wind jump up :" then would he station himself for hours at the lee-gangway, and chaunt to some imaginary deity an incantation or prayer to change the opposing wind. I could never rightly learn to whom this rude melody was ad dressed; for if anyone approached him near enough to overhear the words, he became at once silent ; but there was a mournful and pathetic air running through the strain, that rendered it by no means * Subsequent explorations have proved this to be the case. 222 ANECDOTES unpleasing ; though doubtless it owed much of its effect to the concomitant circumstances. The rude savage — separated from all his former companions, made at once an intimate and familiar witness of some of the wonders of civilization, carried by his new corarades to their very country, and brought face to face with his traditionary foes, the dreaded "north ern raen," and now returning to recount to his yet ruder brethren the wonders he had witnessed — could not fail to interest the least imaginative. Yet Miago had a decided and most inexplicable advantage overall on board, and that in a raatter espe cially relating to the science of navigation : he could indicate at once and correctly the exact direction of our wished-for harbour, when neither sun nor stars were shining to assist hira. He was tried frequently, and under very varying circurastances, but strange as it may seera, he was invariably right. This faculty — though somewhat analogous to one I have heard ascribed to the natives of North America — had very much surprised me when exercised on shore, but at sea, out of the sight of land, it seemed beyond belief, as assuredly it is beyond explanation: but I have soraetiraes thought that some such power must have been possessed by those adventurous sea men who, long before the discovery of the compass, ventured upon distant and hazardous voyages. I used sometimes, as we approached the land of his nativity, to question him upon the account he intended to give his friends of the scenes he had wit- OF MIAGO. 223 nessed, and I was quite astonished at the accuracy with which he remembered the various places we had visited during the voyage : he seemed to have carried the ship's track in his raemory with the raost careful accuracy. His description of the ship's sailing and anchoring were most arausing : he used to say, " Ship walk — walk — all night — hard walk — then by and by, anchor turable down. " His raanner of describing his interviews with the " wicked northern men," was most graphic. His countenance and figure became at once instinct with animation and energy, and no doubt he was then influenced by feelings of baffled hatred and revenge, from having failed in his much-vaunted determination to carry off in triumph one of their gins. I would sometimes amuse myself by asking him how he was to excuse himself to his friends for having failed in the pre- raised exploit, but thc subject was evidently a very unpleasant one, and he was always anxious to escape from it. In spite of all Miago's evocations for a change of wind we did not see Rottenest Island before the morning of the 25th. The ship's track on the chart after passing the N.W. Cape, resembled the figure seven, the tail pointing towards the north. We passed along the south side of Rottenest, and by keep ing its south-western extreme shut in with the south point, cleared the northern end of the foul ground extending N.N.W- from a cluster of high rocks called the Stragglers, As Gage Road was not con- 224 RETURN TO SWAN RIVER, sidered safe at this time of the year, the ship was taken into Owen's anchorage under the guidance of Mr, Usborne. We first steered for the Mew Stone, bearing south, until the leading marks could be made out ; they are the western of two flat rocks lying close off the west side of Carnac Island and a large white sand patch on the north side of Garden Island. The rock raust be kept its own breadth open to the eastward of the highest part of the patch ; these marks lead over a sort of bar or ridge of sand in 3 and 3^ fathoms ; when the water deepened to 5 and 7 fathoms, the course was then changed to E,S,E. for a patch of low cliffs about two miles south of Freemantle, which brought us up to Owen's anchor age in 7 and 8 fathoms, passing between Success and Palraelia Banks. Thus concluded our first cruize on this almost hitherto unknown part of the continent; and looking at its results we had every reason to feel satisfied, having appended 300 miles of new land to our geographical store, and succeeded in an object of paramount interest in this country, the discovery of a river. Besides the nautical information obtained, sorae additions were raade to the secondary objects of the voyage, by increasing our knowledge of the natural history and indigenous productions of North western Australia, During the period of our visit we had a teraperature varying from 76° to 125" ; the weather generally fine, with moderate south-easterly winds, and occasionally heavy squalls from the east- CHANGES OF TEMPERATURE. 225 ward, excepting in the raonth of February and part of March, when we experienced heavy falls of rain, accorapanied by fresh westerly winds. But as these changes have already been noticed in the diary, it is needless to enter into further detail about them here. Vol, I, CHAPTER VIIL SWAN RIVER TO SYDNEY, miago's RECEPTION BY HIS COUNTRYMEN — WHALE FISHERY STRANGE IDEAS ENTERTAINED BY NATIVES RESPECTING THE FIRST SETTLERS — NEGLECTED STATE OP THE COLONY TEST SECURITY OF OWEn's ANCHORAGE — WEATHER CELEBRATION OF THE ANNIVERSARY OF THE COLONY FRIENDLY MEETING BETWEEN DIFFERENT TRIBES NA TIVE BEGGARS — PERSONAL VANITY OF A NATIVE — VISIT YORK DESCRIPTION OF COUNTRY SITE OF YORK — SCENERY IN ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD DISAPPOINTMENT EXPERIENCED — SAIL FROM SWAN RIVER — HOSPITALITY OF COLONISTS DURING OUR STAY AURORA AUSTRALIS — GALE OFF CAPE LEUWEN STORMY PASSAGE SHIP ON A LEE SHORE — SOUTH-WEST CAPE OF TASMANIA BRUNY ISLAND LIGHT HOUSE — ARRIVE AT HOBARTON — MOUNT WELLING TON KANGAROO HUNT WHITE KANGAROO CIVILITY FROM THE GOVERNOR — TRAVERTINE LIMESTONE LEAVE HOBARTON — SINGULAR CURRENT APPEARANCE OF LAND IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF SYDNEY POSITION OF LIGHT HOUSE — ENTRANCE AND FIRST VIEW OF PORT JACKSON SCENERY ON PASSING UP THE HARBOUR MEET THE EXPEDITION BOUND TO PORT ESSINGTON APPARENT IN CREASE OF SYDNEY CAUSE OF DECLINE EXPEDITION SAILS FOR PORT ESSINGTON — ILLAWARRA BOTANY BAY — LA perouse's MONUMENT — ABORIGINES — MEET CAPTAIN KING — APPEARANCE OF LAND NEAR SYDNEY. We were considerably amused with the conse quential air Miago assumed towards his countryraen on our arrival, which afforded us a not uninstructive instance of the prevalence of the ordinary infirmities miago's RECEPTION BY HIS COUNTRYMEN. 2^ of our common human nature, whether of pride or vanity, universally to be met with both in the civilized man and the uncultivated savage. He declared that he would not land until they first came off to wait on him. Decorated with an old full-dress Lieutenant's coat, white trowsers, and a cap with a tall feather, he looked upon himself as a most exalted personage, and for the whole of the first day remained on board, impatiently, but in vain prying into each boat that left the shore for the dusky forms of some of his quondam friends. His pride however could not long withstand the desire of display ; yielding to the im pulse of vanity, he, early the following morning, took his departure from the ship. Those who witnessed the raeeting described it as cool on both sides, arising on the part of his friends frora jealousy; they perhaps judging from the nature of his costurae, that he had abandoned his bush life. Be that as it may, the reception tended greatly to lower the pride of our hero ; who through generosity (expending all his raoney to purchase them bread,) or from a fear of being treacherously speared, soon convinced his former associates how desirous he was of regaining their confidence. He did not, however, participate in the revelry then going on amongst the natives at Freemantle, where, at this period of the year, they assemble in great numbers to feast on the whales that are brought in by the boats of a whaling establish ment, — which I cannot allude to without expressing an opinion that this fishery, if properly managed and Q 2 228 STATE OF THE COLONY, free frora Araerican encroachments, would become one of the most iraportant branches of industry. During the time that Miago was on board we took great pains to wean him from his natural pro pensity for the savage life by instilling such inforraa tion as his untutored raind was capable of receiving, and frora his often expressed resolutions we were led to hope a cure had been effected ; great was our disappointraent then on finding that in less than a fortnight after our arrival, he had resumed his original wildness, and was again to be numbered amongst the native inhabitants of the bush. To us he had been the source of great rairth, by the absurd anecdotes he soraetiraes related about his coun trymen. His account of their conjectures respect ing the arrival of the first settlers may amuse the reader ; he said, " the ships were supposed to be trees, and the cattle large dogs (the only animal be sides the kangaroo known to them), whose size and horns excited such alarra, that one which strayed into the bush being raet by a party of natives raade thera clirab up the nearest trees in the greatest terror." It raay give sorae definite idea of the neglected state of this infant colony, to raention that during the entire period of our absence — a space of six months — there had been but one arrival there, and that not from England. The solitary visitor was H.M.S. Pelorus from the Indian station. The want of comraunication with the raother country was be ginning to be felt severely, and in matters of graver OWEN's ANCHORAGE, 229 moment than mere news. Many necessary articles of home manufacture or importation, scarcely valued till wanted, were now becoming almost unattainable : one familiar instance will illustrate at once how this state of things presses upon the comfort of the colo nists ; the price of yellow soap had risen to four shillings per pound ! The usual winter anchorage in Cockburn Sound, being seven railes frora the town of Freeraantle, the colonists were naturally very anxious to see tested the equal security of one which we had chosen within half that distance. The point was fairly tried, and very satisfactorily determined during the heavy weather which we experienced on the 31st of March, and llth of June, which did not raise more sea than a boat at anchor could have ridden out with safety. These gales lasted about forty-eight hours each, coraraencing at N. by W. and gradually blowing theraselves out at W.S.W. In each instance a heavy bank of clouds in the north-west gave us a day s notice of their approach. The indications of the barometer were less decisive ; its minimum was 29.3. The weather in the interval between these gales was wet and unsettled ; but afterwards, until our departure, it continued remarkably fine with an average teraperature of 60". The winds at this season prevail frora the land, the sea breezes being both light and very irregular. We were just in tirae to share in the annual festU 230 ANNIVERSARY OF THE COLONY. vities with which the inhabitants celebrate the for mation of the colony. Horse racing, and many other old English sports shewed that the colonists still retain the tastes and habits of horae. Some of the aborigines took part in the amusements of the day with evident enjoyraent : and we were surprised to find that in throwing the spear they were excelled by an English competitor. We hardly know how to reconcile this fact with our own favourite theories upon the perfection of the savage in the few exercises of skill to which he devotes his attention, and were obliged to take refuge in the inadequate suggestion that the wild man requires a greater degree of ex citement than his more civilized competitor, to bring out, or call into action, all the resources of his art. Araong the natives asserabled were a small party frora King George's Sound : they had come to Perth, bearing despatches from that place. The good understanding which appeared to exist between them and their fellow-countrymen in this district, led ine to believe that by bringing different tribes more frequently together, under similar happy auspices to those which convened the raeeting of to-day, much might be done to qualify the eager and deadly hatred in which they are too prone to indulge. The natives in the town of Perth are most noto rious beggars : the softer sex ply this easy craft even raore indefatigably than the raen. Their flattering solicitations and undeniable importunity seldom altogether fail of success, and "quibra (i.e. ship) VISIT YORk, '231 man," after the assurance that he is a " very pretty gentleraan," must perforce yield to the solicitation " tickpence give it um rae.'* There was one araongst thera, who from some accident had lost several of his toes. When in conver sation, if he fancied any person was observing his foot, he would immediately endeavour to conceal the part that was thus disfigured by burying it in the sand. Another instance, exemplifying how prevalent is the frailty of vanity in the heart of man in his primitive condition. As a little time was required to give the ship a slight refit and the crew sorae relaxation, it afforded an opportunity of visiting York, situated about sixty railes east frora Perth, and at that extreraity of the colony. Accordingly, one murky afternoon a small party of us were wending our way over the Darling Range. Long after dark the welcome bark of dogs rang through the forest in the still dark night, assur ing us that shelter was at hand, and we soon found ourselves before a large fire in the only house on the road, enjoying, after a dreary wet ride, the usual fare at that tirae at the out-stations— fried pork and kangaroo. About this teneraent was the only spot of land along the whole line of road that could at all lay claim to anything like fertility ; at which I was the more surprised, as our route intercepted the direction in which patches of good land are gene rally found in this part of the continent. The soil .of this little piece was of a rich black mould and 232 YORK, well watered by a neighbouring spring. Our road lay in sorae places over tracts of loose white sand,-. and in others round and over low ironstone hills. Descending from one of these heights to a rich nar row flat, the presence of three or four houses in formed us we were within the township of York. The position ofthe level it occupies forras the western bank ofthe river Avon, which is now and has been for some time past nothing more than a chain of water-holes. In this neighbourhood the hills lie detached from one another in irregular directions, and are composed of granite ; from the sumrait of one on the western side of the town we looked over a vast expanse of undulating forest land, densely wooded, with scarcely a grassy patch to break the monotony of the view. To give an idea of the per sonal labour early, settlers are obliged to undergo, I may mention that we found Mr. Bland, the most wealthy colonist in Western Australia, engaged in holding the plough. I was disappointed in ray visit to this part of the country as it did not leave a favourable impression of its fertility — still it afforded me an opportunity of judging by comparison of the quality ofthe soils in Western Australia and on the banks of the Fitz-Roy, and I was happy to find I had not overrated the latter. The odium of a recent murder in the vicinity comraitted by natives had led to their absenting thera selves just now frora York, but a few of their numbers too young for suspicion were employed in SAIL FROM SWAN RIVER. 233 the capacity of servants and appeared sharp and in telligent lads. * On the 20th of June we took leave of our friends in Western Australia, proceeding out of Owen's anchorage by a passage recoramended by the Har bour-Master, in which we found half a fathom less water than the one through which we entered. Dur- ing our stay there, nothing could exceed the kindness with which we w-ere welcomed, and we experienced that proverbial hospitality of colonists which in this instance we shall ever remember with feelings of the most sincere and heartfelt pleasure. It may appear out of place inserting it here but on our first arrival at Swan River in November last, we saw the Aurora Australis very bright. At midnight of the 23rd of June we passed Cape Leuwen, the south-western extremity of the continent ; named by the first discoverer in 1622, Landt van de Leuwen or the land of Lions. The wind which had increased since the morning to a fresh gale from the northward, now suddenly veered round to the west ward, accorapanied with rain and causing a high cross sea. These sudden shifts of wind frequently raise a very dangerous sea off Cape Leuwen.* This made the third gale we had experienced since the 30th of May, and is recorded here from its coraraencing at N.E. instead of at north, the usual poir^t at which gales in these regions begin. During the stormy weather which prevailed throughout the passage, we * In a gale off this Cape in 1836, H.M.S. Zebra was compelled to throw her guns overboard. 234 GALE OFF CAPE LEUWEN, were unceasingly attended by those majestic birds and monarchs of the ocean — the White Albatross, (Diomedia exulans,) which with steadily expanded' wings sailed gracefully over the surface of the rest less raain in solemn silence, like spectres of the deep ; their calm and easy flight coursing each wave in its hurried career seemed to mock the unsteady motion of our little vessel as she alternately traversed the deep hollows and lofty suraraits of the high-crested seas. July 6. — It was our intention to have passed through Bass Strait, but finding we were unable to weather King Island bore up on the 6th for Hobar ton. On the evening of the same day we were by a sudden change of the wind placed in one of those perilous situations in which both a good ship and sound gear are so much required ; the wind, which had been northerly throughout the day, about 8 p.m. veered round to west, blowing a heavy gale with a high sea ; and since we had now run about halfway along Van Diemen's Land, left us with an extensive and dangerous shore under our lee. Through the dismal gloora of the night, during which there was incessant rain with a succession of heavy squalls, the angry voice of nature seemed indeed to be raised in menace against us, and it was not until the close of the next day that a slight abatement of the weather .j-elieved our anxiety for the safety of the ship. Dur ing the night the wind backed round to the N.W. and the sky becarae once more partially clear. Early on the morning of the 8th we descried the TASMANIA. 285 south-western extremity of the land of Van Diemen, discovered in 1633 by the celebrated Dutch Navi gator, Abel Tasraan, and so named by hira after the Governor of Batavia, under whose authority the voyage thus crowned with success had been per formed. To this portion of Australasia I shall systematically apply the name of Tasmania, in honour of that adventurous searaan who first added it to the list of European discoveries. The same principle appears to have been recently acted upon by the Government in creating the Bishopric of Tasmania, and I raay therefore plead high authority to sanction such in novation :* higher perhaps than will be required by hira who calls to mind that hitherto the navigator who added this island, and the scarcely less impor tant ones of New Zealand to the empire of science, has been left without a memorial, the raost befitting and themost lasting that universal gratitude can con secrate to individual desert. The insular character of * Mr. Greenough, late President of the Geological Society, in his anniversary address to that body on the 24th of May, 1841, remarks that, "It is much to be regretted that Government has not recognised Tasmania as the name of that island, impro perly denominated Van Diemen's Land. The occurrence of a second Van Diemen's Land on the northern coast of Australia occasions confusion ; and since Tasman, not Van Diemen, was the first discoverer of the island, it would be but just that what ever honour the name confers should be given to the former navigator." — Journal of the Royal Geographical Society of London, vol. xi. 1841, part 1. 236 SOUTH-WEST CAPE. Tasmania was not fully ascertained till the year 1798, when the intrepid Bass, then surgeon of H.M.S. Re liance, while on a whale-boat cruise from Sydney, dis covered the strait which bears his name. Towards 10 A.M. steering E. by S, before a long rolling sea, we passed about six miles frora the S.W. Cape of Tasraania. There was no opportunity at the tirae of deterraining exactly the araount of error in the position assigned to it in the present charts, but we were satisfied that it was placed at least five railes too far south. The Maatzuyker Isles, a group a few railes to the south-east of this cape, are also in correctly laid down. The view of this headland was of a very irapressive and reraarkable character, and to add to the usual effect of its lonely aad soli tary grandeur, a heavy sea still vexed and swelling frora the turbulence of the recent gale, was break ing in monotonous regularity against its white and aged face ; rising a thousand feet precipitously above the level of the sea, and terminating in a peak, rendered yet more conspicuous by a deep gap behind it. The adjacent coast had a singularly wild, bare, and storm-beaten appearance. We beheld the rugged and treeless sides of barren hills ; and here and there, where vegetation struggled with sterility, its stunted growth and northern inclination caused by the prevailing winds testified to an ungenial clirae ; high, bare-faced peaks appeared occasion ally through the thick clouds that girdled them. BRUNY ISLAND LIGHT-HOUSE, 237 and the whole coast-line forcibly reminded us of the dreary shores of Tierra del Fuego, On opening d'Entrecasteaux Channel, we observed a splendid light-house erected by Sir John Franklin, on the S.W. extremity of Bruny Island, and which serves to guide entering vessels clear of the shoals in the mouth of that channel, formerly fatal to so raany a luckless voyager, wrecked within sight of the hoped-for shore, upon which he might never set his foot. The situation of the lighthouse appears ad mirably chosen, and it raay readily be seen in the day time, a wide gap being cut in the woodland behind it. In alluding to the great improvement in the navigation of d'Entrecasteaux Channel, by the erec tion of the lighthouse on Bruny Island, it must be reraerabered that we are indebted to the indefatig able exertions of Lieut. Burnett, R,N,, who had been appointed Marine Surveyor to the colony by the Adrairalty, for a knowledge of the exact position of its dangers. In prosecuting this service, I grieve to say, his life was lost, by the upsetting of a boat in one of those sudden gusts of wind which sweep down the steep valleys on the sides of that channel. This sudden terraination of Lieut. Bur nett's labours has been deplored alike by the colony, and by the profession of which he was so bright an ornaraent. We entered Storra Bay after dark against a strong N.W. wind, which quite vindicated the title of the bay to the narae it bears, and so much delayed our progress, that it was morning before 238 MOUNT WELLINGTON. we were abreast of the Iron Pot light -house at the entrance of the Derwent river, and after dark before we reached Sullivan's cove, Hobarton. Although the passage up the river was tedious and annoying frora the adverse and squally wind that prevailed throughout the day, we were alraost repaid for the delay by the scenery each tack brought to our view, and to which the reraerabered aspect of the shores we had so recently quitted, seemed by contrast to add a yet more delightful verdure. As we proceeded, we noticed since our last visit, several bare patches in the woodlands, where the axe and the brand of the enterprising colonists had prepared the way for that cultivation under the influence of which the landscape wore in places an alraost English aspect. This fancied reserablance — inspiring by turns delightful anticipation and fond regret — was heightened by the occasional addition of raany pretty little cottages scattered along the sloping banks of the river, and adding to the luxuriant appearance of the country, the peaceful grace and sanctity of home. July 19 We were detained at Hobarton till the 19th, the bad state of the weather render ing it impossible to complete the requisite obser vations for rating chronometers, &c, ; we had two or three snow storms during the tirae, but even in flne weather the proximity of Mount Wellington, towering above Hobarton, and throwing its strange square headed shadow across the still waters of KANGAROO HUNT, 239 Sullivan's cove, must always render Fort Mulgrave an unfavourable spot for observations, frora its arresting the progress of each passing cloud. The pleasure of our return was very much enhanced by the kind hospitality with which we were received by the inhabitants, and the officers of Her Majesty's 2 1st regiment. Frora Sir John Franklin the Gover nor, we experienced all the attention and courtesy — all the frank and generous hospitality which it was in his power to bestow. Had we been without the claims of previous acquaintance to have recom mended us to his best offices, the fact that our voyage was intended to advance the cause of science, would have been quite sufficient to interest in our welfare, one who has achieved a reputation as enduring as it is honourable, amid the perils and trials connected with an arctic carapaign of discovery. The unfavourable state of the weather also prevented us frora visiting and enjoying the alpine sceneiy in the neighbourhood of Hobarton. We did, however, get a few railes frora the town upon one occasion, when the fox-hounds of a gentleman, Mr, Gregson, who will be long remembered in the colony for his pedestrian and equestrian per formances, — met in the neighbourhood to hunt the kangaroo, A thoroughly English appreciation of all that promised sport, led a large party of us to join the raeet, at a place called " the Neck." The turn-out was by no means despicable : the hounds were well bred, though rather small — perhaps an ad- 240 WHlTfi KANGAROO, vantage in the sort of country over which their work lies. A tolerable muster of red coats gave life and animation to the scene, and forcibly reminded us of a coverside at home. The hounds found a large kangaroo almost iraraediately upon throwing off, and went away with with him in good earnest. There was a burning scent, and from the nature of the country, over which we went for some distance without a check, the riding was really desperate. The country was thickly wooded, with open spaces here and there, in which fallen trees lay half hidden by long grass. Riding to the hounds was therefore as necessary as dangerous, for once out of sight it was almost im possible to overtake or fall in with them. Most of the field rode boldly and well, yet I remarked one or two casualties : early in the run, a gentleman was swept off his horse by the projecting branch of a tree, under which he was going at a reckless pace, and another had his hat perforated immediately above the crown of his head. Yet notwithstanding the annoyance of ferrying our horses across the Derwent, we returned to Hobarton, very much pleased with the day's sport.* In a gentleman's house there, I saw for the first time, a specimen of an Albino or white variety * In the first volume of the Tasmanian Journal, wiU be found an animated description of Kangaroo hunting with these hounds, by the Hon. H. EUiot, who mentions that on one occasion a large kangaroo gave them a run of eighteen miles. SAIL FROM HOBARTON. 241 of kangaroo, Halmaturus Bennett'd.* Another object that interested me greatly was a quarry of travertine Uraestone, in the neighbourhood of Hobarton, where I saw the irapressionf of leaves of plants, not in existence at present, and of a few shells of ancient species. We sailed from Hobarton on the 19th of July and carried a strong fair wind to within a few days' sail of Sydney, when we experienced a current that set us 40 miles S.E. in 24 hours ; this was the more extraordinary as we did not feel it before, and scarcely afterwards ; and our course being parallel to the shore, was not likely to have brought us suddenly within the infiuenee of the currents said to prevail along the coast. The ship's position was 40 miles east of Jervis Bay when we first met it. Ju/y 24. — This raorning the clearness of the atmosphere enabled us at an elevation of 50 feet, to distinguish the light near the entrance of Sydney Harbour, while at a distance of thirty miles from it. Its site has been admirably chosen for indicating the position of the port frora a distance at sea, but it has been placed too far frora the entrance to be * One of this rare kind, was presented by Sir John Franklin to her Majesty, in whose menagerie at Windsor it died, and was sent afterwards to the British Museura, where it now raay be seen. t Drawings of these impressions, together with the shells will be found in Count Strzelecki's scientific work. VOL. I. K 242 APPROACH TO SYDNEY. of rauch service to vessels when close in shore.* The low land in the vicinity of Sydney and Botany Bay, presents a striking contrast with the coast of the Illawarra district, a little further southwards ; where the sea washes the base of a lofty range of hills, which sweeping round some distance in the rear of the two forraer places, leaves an extensive tract of low country between thera and the sea. Upon the summit of these hills there rest almost invariably huge clouds, which serve even through the gloom of the darkest night, to assure the anxious navigator of his position. On approaching Sydney, a stranger cannot fail of being delighted with his first glance at the noble estuary which spreads before and around him. After sailing along a coast line of cliffs some 200 feet in height, and in general effect and outline not unlike those of Dover, he observes an apparent breach in the sea wall, forming two abrupt head lands, and ere he has time to speculate upon the cause of that fancied ruin, his ship glides between the wave worn cliffs into the magnificent harbour of Port Jackson. The view which solicits the eye * Some years since a ship with convicts was driven at night by a S.E. gale, close in with the hght, and was obliged to run for the harbour, but being then without anything to guide her into the entrance, was wrecked on the south point. The loss of life was dreadful. The light lately erected near the Sow and Pigs reef, has in some measure remedied the evil here pointed out: but being too far within, and on the south side of the entrance, it is not made out till, with southerly winds, a ship has approached dangerously close to the North Head. CONTRAST WITH SOUTH AMERICA. 243 of the sea-wearied voyager as he proceeds up the harbour, is indeed well calculated to excite a feel ing of mingled admiration and delight — the security and capacity of the port— its many snug coves and quiet islets with their sloping shores, sleeping upon the silver tide— pretty white cottages and many English looking villas peeping out here and there from their surrounding shrubberies, and the whole canopied by a sky of ethereal blue, present a picture which must at once enchant the most fas tidious observer. We found lying in the famous cove of Sydney, H.M.S Alligator and Britomart, commanded by Captain Sir Gordon Bremer, and Lieut, (now Captain) Owen Stanley, going to form a settlement at Port Essington on thc North coast ; an expedition of much interest, particularly to us, frora having some old shipmates engaged in it. On first arriving at Sydney from South Araerica, I was much struck with the strange contrast its extensive and at the same time youthful appearance presented to the decrepid and decaying aspect of the cities on that continent. We had then been visiting colonies and settlements founded centuries ago, by a nation at that time almost supreme in European influence, and planted with every cir cumstance of apparent advantage upon the shores of a fertile and luxurious continent given by the immortal Genoese to the crown of Spain. We had found thera distracted by internal comraotions, R 2 244 COLONIZATION. disgraced by ignorance, debased by superstition, and defiled by slavery. In Sydney we beheld with wonder what scarce half a century had sufficed to effect ; for where alraost within the meraory of raan the savage ranged the desert wastes and trackless forests, a noble city has sprung as though by magic from the ground, which will ever serve both as a monuraent of English enterprise, and as a beacon from whence the light of Christian civi lization shall spread through the dark and gloomy recesses of ignorance and guilti The true history of our Australian possessions ; the causes which have led to their settleraent ; the raeans by which they have been established ; the circurastances by which they have been influenced ; and the rapid, nay, unexarapled prosperity to which they have attained ; present sorae of the raost curious and most import ant laws of colonization to our notice. Without attempting so far to deviate from my present pur pose as to enter here on a deduction from the data to which I have alluded, it cannot be denied that, in the words of an eloquent writer in Blackwood, " a great experiment in the faculty of renovation in the human character, has found its field in the solitudes of this vast continent : that the experiraent has succeeded to a most unexampled and unexpected degree : and that the question is now finally decided between severity and discipline," What else re mains, what great designs and unfathoraed purposes, are yet reserved to grace this distant theatre, I pause not now to guess. The boldest conjecture would QUARANTINE ESTABLISHMENT. 245 probably fall very far short of the truth. It is sufficient for us to know that Providence has in trusted to England a new empire in the Southern seas. Nor can we doubt that there as elsewhere throughout the various regions of the habitable globe, the same indomitable spirit which has achieved so many successes, will accompany those whom heaven has appointed as pioneers, in that march of moral regeneration and sound iraproveraent long proraised to the repentant children of earth. We were sorry to find that it had been necessary to form a quarantine establishment in the North Harbour, in consequence of the diseases brought to the country by emigrant ships, A number of tomb stones, whitening the side of a hill, raark the locality, and afford a raelancholy evidence of the short sojourn in the land of proraise which has been vouchsafed to some. It not being the favourable season for commenc ing operations in Bass Strait, we remained at Sydney until Noveraber, and erabraced the oppor tunity of clearing out the ship. Our stay was un- diversified with incidents, and it may as well therefore be briefly passed over. Among the few occurrences worth mentioning, was the departure of the expedition sent out to form a settlement at Port Essington on the northern coast. Its object was simply military occupation, it having been deemed advisable about that time to assert practically the supremacy of Great Britain over the Continent by, occupying sorae of its most prorainent points ; but as soon as 246 EXPEDITION TO PORT ESSINGTON, its destination becarae known in the colony, several persons carae forward as volunteer-settlers, and ex pressed the greatest anxiety to be allowed to accom pany the expedition. Their views extended to the establishment of a trade with the islands in the Arafura sea ; and certainly they would have been far more likely to draw forth the resources of thc country, than a garrison, whose supplies are brought to thera frora a distance, whose presence holds out no induceraent to traders, and who are not irapeUed by any anxiety for their own support to discover the riches of the soil. For these reasons the deterraina tion of Governraent not to throw open the lands, and their refusal to hold out the proraise of protection to the individuals who expressed a desire to accom pany the expedition, are greatly to be regretted. In a vast continent like Australia, so reraarkably destitute of fixed inhabitants, it would seem that every en couragement should be afforded to persons desirous of locating themselves on unoccupied tracts. There is a great difference besides, between giving rise to delusive hopes — inducing people as it were under false pretences to repair to new settlements — and checking the spirit of colonization when it mani fests itself. Every young establishraent raust go through a certain process. It is necessary that some should pioneer the way for others; and endure hardships the beneficial results of which raay be enjoyed only by their successors. Had advantage been taken of the enterprising spirit that prevailed at the time of which I speak, the germs of a fresh EXPEDITION TO PORT ESSINGTON, 247 settlement would have been deposited at Port Essing ton, which raust ultimately have risen into import ance. A great stream of emigration was pouring into the south-eastern portion of Australia, and it would have been wise to open a channel by which sorae portion of it might have been drawn off to the northern coast. But such were not the views entertained by the authorities concerning this matter. They seemed apprehensive of incurring the blame of encouraging the speculating mania which raged so extensively at Sydney, and which has re-acted with so pernicious an effect upon the colony.* The expedition accordingly retained its purely mili tary character. However, I may add, that the Bishop of Australia attended to the spiritual wants * On our arrival at Sydney in 1838, we found speculation at its height : land-jobbers were carrying on a reckless and most gainful trade, utterly regardless of that revulsion they were doomed soon to experience. Town allotments that cost originally but ^50. were in some instances sold, three months afterwards, for ten times that sum. Yet amid all this appearance of exces sive and unnatural prosperity there were not wanting those who foresaw and foretold an approaching change. To the withdrawal of the convicts, solely at the expressed wish of some of the most wealthy colonists, has been traced much of the decline that fol lowed ; and the more recent pages in the history of Sydney will fuUy bear out the opinions expressed by Captain Fitz-Roy when he visited it in 1836 : he says, "It is difficult to beheve that Sydney will continue to flourish in proportion to its rise. It has sprung into existence too suddenly. Convicts have forced its growth, even as a hot bed forces plants, and premature decay may be expected from such early maturity." 248 BOTANY BAY. of the settlement by sending with it a church in frame. During our stay at Sydney we paid a visit to Botany Bay, which from the circumstance of its being the point first touched at by Captain Cook, naturally possesses the greatest interest of any place in the neighbourhood. Our way thither lay over a sandy plain, into which the coast range of low hills subsides. There is little or no verdure to relieve the eye, which encounters aridity wherever it turns ; and the sand being rendered loose by frequent traffic, the foot sinks at every step, so that the jour ney is disagreeable to both raan and beast. These inconveniences, however, were soon forgotten on our arrival at our destination, araidst the feelings ex cited and the associations raised by the objects that presented theraselves. Within the entrance of the bay, on the northern side, stands a raonuraent* * On the eastern side is engraven — A la Memoire de Monsieur de la Perouse. Cette terre qu'il visita en mdcclxxxviii. est la demiere d'oi il a fait parvenir de ses nouveUes. Also — Erige au nom de la France par les soins de M. M. de BougainvUle et Du Campier, commandant la fregate La Thetis, et la corvette L'Esperance, en relache au port Jackson, en mdcccxxv. On the western side — This place, visited by Monsieur de la Perouse in the year mdcclxxxviii, is the last whence any accounts of him have been received. Also — Erected in the name of France by M. M. de Bougain ville and du Campier, commanding the frigate the Thetis and the corvette the Hope, lying in Port Jackson, A.D. mdcccxxv. On the north — Le fondement pose en 1825 ; eleve en 1828. On ^^esou/A— Foundation laid in 1825, completed 1828. MONUMENT TO LA PKROUSE, 249 TS'T?"/ j"m erected to the raeraory of La Perouse, that being the last spot at which the distinguished navigator was heard of, from 1788, until 1826, when the Che valier Dillon was furnished with a clue to his rae lancholy fate by finding the handle of a French sword fastened to another blade in the possession of a native of Tucopia, one of the Polynesian group. By this raeans he was enabled to trace hira to the island of Mannicolo, on the reefs fronting which his ship was lost. Close by, on the sarae point, stands the tomb of a French Catholic priest, naraed Le Receveur, who accompanied La Perouse, as naturalist, in his cir cumnavigation of the globe, and died at this great distance frora his native land. A large stump of a tree rising near, " marks out the sad spot" where lie mouldering the bones of the wanderer in search of materials to enrich the stores of science. No 250 CAPE SOLANDER. doubt many a hope of future farae expired in that raan's breast as he sank into his last sleep in a foreign clirae, far from his home and friends and relations, such as his order allowed him to possess. The applause of the world, which doubtless he fancied would have greeted his labours at the end of his perilous journey, he was now robbed of ; and he must have felt that few would ever recollect his name, save the rare voyager who, like myself, having encountered the same dangers that he had braved, should chance to read his short history on the narrow page of stone that rests above his grave. Another object of greater interest to the English man is observable on Cape Solander, the opposite point of the bay. It is a plate set in the rock, record ing the first visit of the immortal Cook, to whose enterprise the colonists are indebted for the land that yields them their riches, and which must now be invested in their eyes with all the sanctity of home. Surely it would become them to evince a raore filial reverence for the man who must be re garded as in sorae respects the father of the colony. Let us hope that they will one day raise a raonu raent to his raeraory, which to be worthy of him raust be worthy of themselves, — ^something to point out to future generations the spot at which the first white man's foot touched the shore, and where civilization was first brought in contact with the new continent. But though Botany Bay is interesting from the ILLAWARRA. 251 associations connected with it — I ara quite serious, though the expression raay raise a smile on some of my readers' lips — the tract of country best worth seeing in the neighbourhood of Sydney, is Illawarra, coramonly called the Garden of New South Wales. By a change in the forraation frora sandstone to trap, a soil is here produced capable of supporting a vegetation equal in luxuriance to any within the tropics. In the deep valleys that intersect the coun try, the tree-fern attains a great stature, and throw ing out its rich spreading fronds on all sides forms a canopy that perfectly excludes the piercing rays of even an Australian sun. It is irapossible to describe the feelings of surprise and pleasure that are ex cited in the raind of the traveller as he descends into any one of these delightful dells : the contrast in the vegetable kingdom strikes him at once; he gazes around on the rich masses of verdure with astonishment, and strongly impressed with the idea that enchantment has been at work, involuntary rubs his eyes and exclaims, " Am I in Australia or in the Brazils ?" Few only of the aborigines of the neighbourhood of Sydney are now to be seen, and these are gene rally in an intoxicated state. Like most savage tribes they are passionately addicted to spirituous liquors, and seek to obtain it by any means in their power. Out of a sugar bag, with a little water, they manage to extract a liquor sufficient to make half a dozen of them tipsy; and in this condition, as 1 have observed. 252 ABORIGINES. they most frequently presented themselves to my view. They are in every respect a weak, degraded, miserable race, and are anything but a favourable specimen of the benefits produced by intercourse with polished nations on an uncivilized people. However, the natives of Australia vary as strangely as its soil ; the raerabers of the tribes that dwell about Shoal Haven and the small southern ports, and come up in coasting vessels, are good-looking, useful fellows, and may hereafter be made much of. I noticed also, in my circumnavigation of the continent, a remarkable diversity in the cha racter of the natives, some being raost kindly disposed, whilst others raanifested the greatest hostility and aversion. My whole experience teaches rae that these were not accidental differences, but that there is a raarked contrast in the disposi tions of the various tribes, for which I will not atterapt to account. I leave in the hands of ethno logists to deterraine whether we are to seek the cause in rainute variations of cliraate or in other circurastances, physical or historical. This I can say, that great pains were forraerly taken to civilize the natives of Sydney, gardens were given thera, and nuraerous atterapts made to inculcate habits of order, and communicate a knowledge of European arts; but no advantageous results ensued, and it was at length deemed impossible not only to iraprove thera, but even to prevent their deterioration. I cannot determine whether this evinces a natural (( is THIS GRASS?" 253 inaptitude in the savage to learn, or too great impa tience in the teachers to witness the fruits of their labours, and a proneness to be discouraged by difficulties. In the journal of my residence at Sydney I find as the result of one day's experience, the following laconic and somewhat enigmatical raeraorandura : — ** Is this grass?" The question implies a doubt, which it would not be easy for any person unacquainted with the circumstances of time and place, to solve ; but the reader, when he has seen the explanation, will understand why very pleasing associations are connected with this brief note. I was going down to the jetty late one evening, when I met a party just landed, evidently complete strangers in this quarter of the world. Their wandering and unsteady glances would have convinced me of this fact, had their whole appearance left any doubt about the matter : among them were some ladies, one of whora suddenly detached herself from her companions, and directed as it were by instinct through the gloom, hastened towards a few sods of turf, pressed them exultingly with her foot, and exclaimed in a light, joyous, happy voice — ^through which other emotions than that of mere gladness struggled — "/? this grass ?" The words were nothing. They raight have been uttered in a thousand different tones and have not fixed themselves on my memory; but as they fell in accents of delight and gratitude from the lips of the speaker, they told a whole 254 CAPTAIN KING. story, and revealed an entire world of feeling. Never shall I forget the simple expression of this new comer, whose emotions on first feeling the solid earth beneath her tread, and touching a remembrance of the land she had left in quest of another horae, will be incomprehensible to no one who has crossed the ocean. We met several persons at Sydney frora whom we received valuable inforraation, and particularly Captain King, who, as the reader raay recollect, com manded the first expedition on which the Beagle was eraployed. His great scientific attainraents must ever attach respect to his name, and his explora tions on the Australian coast, previous to the survey in which we were engaged, together with his fa ther's services as Governor of New South Wales, give hira and his children a lasting claim upon the country. The information he furnished on this and subsequent occasions was extreraely valuable. An observation of his gave rise in ray raind to very curious conjectures ; he told rae that where he used forraerly to anchor the vessel he coramanded in the head of Sydney cove, there was now scarcely sufficient water to float even a boat. As the de posits of the sraall streara that flows into it could not have produced this change, I was led to ex araine the shore of the harbour, when I found what seemed to rae to be the marks of the sea higher than its present level ; this, coupled with the decrease in the soundings we found in Darling RISING OF THE AUSTRALIAN CONTINENT. 255 Harbour, leads to the legitimate inference that this part of the continent is rising ; and my reader will recollect that it is a prevalent theory that the whole of the vast plains of Australasia have but recently emerged from the sea. CHAPTER IX. BASS STRAIT. LEAVE SYDNEY — ENTER BASS STRAIT — ISLAND AT EASTERN ENTRANCE —Wilson's promontory — cape shanck — ENTER port PHILLIP TIDE RACE COMMENCE SURVEY ING OPERATIONS FIRST SETTLEMENT — ESCAPED CONVICT HIS RESIDENCE WITH THE NATIVES SAIL FOR KING ISLAND EXAMINE COAST TO CAPE OTWAY — KING ISLAND MEET SEALERS ON NEW YEAR ISLANDS FRANKLIN ROAD SOLITARY RESIDENCE OF CAPTAIN SMITH — SOIL — ADVANTAGEOUS POSITION FOR A PENAL SETTLEMENT — LEAFLESS APPEARANCE OF TREES — EXAMINE WEST COAST FITZMAURICE BAY — STOKES' POINT SEAL BAY GEO LOGICAL FORMATION EXAMINE COAST TO SEA ELEPHANT ROCK — BRIG ROCK — CROSS THE STRAIT TO HUNTER ISLAND — STRONG TIDE NEAR REId's ROCKS THREE HUMMOCK ISLAND RATS — THE BLACK PYRAMID POINT WOOLNORTH RAISED BEACH COAST TO CIRCULAR HEAD — HEAD-aUARTERS OF THE AGRICULTURAL COMPANY — CAPTURE OF A NATIVE — MOUTH OF THE TAMAR RIVER- RETURN TO PORT PHILLIP WEST CHANNEL YARRA YARRA RIVER MELBOURNE CUSTOM OF NATIVES MANNA VISIT GEELONG STATION PEAK — ABORIGINAL NAMES SOUTH CHANNEL — EXAMINE WESTERN PORT ADVENTURE WITH A SNAKE BLACK SWANS CAPE PATTERSON DEEP SOUNDINGS RE-VISIT KING AND HUNTER ISLANDS FIRE CIRCULAR HEAD GALES OF WIND — reid's ROCKS SEA ELEPHANT ROCK - WILD DOGS NAVARIN AND HARBINGER REEFS — ARRIVE AT PORT PHILLIP SAIL FOR SYDNEY PIGEON HOUSE —DROUGHT MR, USBORNE LEAVES, Before quitting Sydney I raust express ray grati tude for the hospitality we experienced during our Wilson's promontory. 257 stay, which prepared us with greater cheerfulness to encounter the difficulties we might expect to meet with in the boisterous waters that rolled between the then imperfectly known shores, and islands of Bass Strait, It was not until the llth of November that we bade adieu to our friends, and sailed to commence our contemplated operations. On the 14th we passed the rocky islands (Kent's Group) at the eastern entrance of the Strait, their barren and bleak appearance bespoke the constant gales that swept over thera, checking every tendency to vegetation. As we approached thera the sound ings decreased to 28 fathoras, the observation of which fact apprises ves.sels coming from the eastward in thick weather, of their proximity. After leaving these islands we progressed but slowly, and the passage through the Strait proraised to be tedious : yet, as the wind was fair and the weather fine, we had no reason to complain, considering moreover the reraarkably raild reception we raet with in the Funnel, the name commonly and most appropriately given by the colonists to Bass Strait, frora the con stant strong winds that sweep through it. On the 17th we passed Wilson's Proraontory, the southern extreraity of Australia, connected with the raain by a low sandy isthraus, only left dry it is probable of late years. It is a very raountainous tract. rearing its raany peaks in solemn grandeur from the waves and burying their summits* * Nearly 3000 feet high. VOL, I. S 258 PORT PHILLIP. at most seasons of the year, in a canopy of grey mist. On some occasions, however, the bold outline of the mountains is relieved against a clear sky, and their loftiest points catch the first rays of the morning sun, as it rises from the eastern ocean. Many sraall islands are dispersed over the sea in front of this promontory, and partake of its character, being apparently the tops of mountains thrusting themselves up from the deep, and suggesting the belief that new countries are about to be disclosed. Passing Port Western, generally called Western Port, a high mound on the south-eastern extremity of Grant Island was the most conspicuous object. Tbe next remarkable feature in the coast is Cape Shanck, a projection at the western end of a long line of cliffs. Lying close off it is a rock, named, from its exact resemblance, Pulpit Rock. In a small bay on the east side of this headland we caught a glimpse of sorae rich valleys ; but from thence for a distance of 1 6 miles, the coast retains a barren sandy character to Port Phillip, which we reached on the afternoon of the 18th, We scarcely found any ripplings in the entrance, an occurrence of extreme rarity; for it will readily be imagined that a body of water required to fill a bay thirty miles deep and twenty broad, passing tnrough an entrance one mile and a half in width, must rush with great violence ; and when we take into account the ex treme unevenness of the bottom (soundings varying from 40 to 25 and even 9 fathoms) no surprise can be felt that such a stream, particularly when op- PORT PHILLIP. 259 posed to a strong wind, should raise a dangerous sea. The force of it raay be conjectured frora a fact of which I was rayself witness. Standing on one of the entrance points, 1 saw a schooner trying to get in with all sails set before a fresh breeze, and yet she was carried out by the current. Another observation is also recorded for the guidance of the stranger passing into the port. When in the raiddle of the entrance, a low clump of dark bushes breaking the line of white sand beach beyond Shortlands Bluff, was just seen clear of the latter. The first appearance of Port Phillip is very striking, and the effect of the view is enhanced by the contrast with the turbulent waves without and in the entrance. As soon as these have been passed, a broad expanse of placid water displays itself on every side ; and one might almost fancy oneself in a small sea. But the presence ofa distant highland forming a bluff in the N.E. soon dispels this idea. Besides this bluff, (called by the natives Dandonong,) Ar thur's Seat, and Station Peak are the principal fea tures that catch the eye of the stranger. The latter, calledYouangby the natives, is one of a small group of lofty peaks rising abruptly out of a low plain on the western shore of the bay; whilst Arthur's Seat towers over the eastern shore, and forms the northern extreraity of a range subsiding gradually to the coast at Cape Shanck. Anchoring close to the southern shore, about three miles within the entrance, we set to work in s 2 260 PORT PHILLIP, good earnest with our surveying operations ; — in the first place selecting a conspicuous spot for observa tion, frora which all the meridians of our work in the western part of the Strait were to be raeasured. For the sake of ray nautical readers I raay mention that the western extreme of the cliffy patches on the south shore of the bay, marks the place chosen. The nature of our eraployraent confining us to the neighbourhood of the entrance, we had no oppor tunity of visiting the town of .Melbourne, situated near the northern side of the bay. This capital of Australia Felix had for a long time been known to some squatters from Tasraania ; but to Sir Thomas Mitchell the inhabitants raust ever feel grateful for revealing to the world at large the fertility of the districts in its neighbourhood. It is not a little sin gular that the attempt to form a settleraent at this place in 1826 should have failed. A fort was built and abandoned, and of the party of convicts who accompanied the expedition, two escaped and joined the natives, by whora one was murdered, whilst the other, contriving by some means to ingratiate himself with thera, reraained in their company until 1835, when he was discovered by the settlers from Tasmania. During the eleven years he had passed in the bush, without coraing in contact with any other European, he had entirely forgotten his own language, and had degenerated into a perfect savage. His intellect, if he ever possessed rauch, had alraost entirely deserted hira ; and nothing of any value could be gleaned from him respecting the history SAIL FOR KING ISLAND. 26 1 and manners of the tribe with whora he had so long dwelt. He received his pardon and went to Ho barton, but such was the indolence he had con tracted that nothing could be raade of him. The southern shore of Port Phillip is a singular long narrow tongue of land, running out from the foot of the range of which Arthur's Seat is the most conspicuous point, I infer frora the limestone prevailing in it, and containing shells of recent species, that it was once much beneath its present level ; in fact, that it stops up what was formerly a broad raouth of the bay, leaving only the present narrow entrance at the western extremity. Over its surface are scattered hills from one to two hun dred feet in height, in the valleys between which was found sorae light sandy soil supporting at this tirae rich grass, and at various places a thin growth of Banksia, Eucalypti, and Casuarina, all stunted and showing syraptoras of having been roughly used by the south wind. Near the spot we had chosen for the centre of our observations was a well of inferior water, and we did not find any better in the neighbourhood. The point in question therefore will never be very eligible as a settlement. The kangaroos are numerous and large, and the finest snappers I have ever heard of are caught off this point, weighing sometimes as much as thirty pounds. Our fishing experiments, however, were not very productive, being principally sharks; thirteen young ones were found in a single feraale of this species. 262 CAPE OTWAY. Bad weather prolonged our stay until the 26th of November. We had been chiefly occupied in deter mining the positionof the mouths of the various chan nels intersecting the banks, that extend across the entire bay, three miles within the entrance. The most available passages appeared to be those lying on tbe south and west shores, particularly the forraer for ves sels of great draught ; but we did not conclude the exaraination of them at this time, sailing on the morning of the 26th to survey the coast to the west ward. The first thirteen miles, trending W. by S. was of a low sandy character, what seemed to be a fertile country stretching behind it. Two features on this line are worthy of notice — Point Flinders, resembling an island from seaward, on ac countof thelow land in its rear; and the mouth of the river Bar won, navigable for boats entering in very fine weather. On its northern bank, eight miles from the sea is the site of the town of Geelong. Passing this the nature of the country begins to change, and high grassy downs with rare patches of woodland present themselves, which in their turn give place, as we approach Cape Otway, to a steep rocky coast, with densely wooded land rising abruptly over it. The above mentioned Cape is the northern point of the western extremity of Bass Strait, and is swept by all the winds that blow into that end of the Funnel, The pernicious effect of these is evident in the stunted appearance of the trees in its neighbourhood. It is a bold projection in latitude 38" 51', and appears to be the S.W, extremity A sealer's family 263 of a ridge of granite gradually rising from it in a N.E. direction. About half a mile off it, lies a small detached^reef. Having thus coasted the northern side of the Strait, we proceeded to cross over to Tasmania to examine the southern side. About half way is King Island, extending in a north and south direction, thirty-five railes, and in an east and west thirteen. It lies right across the entrance ofthe Strait.about forty miles from either shore, and from its isolated position is well adapted for a penal settlement. The more northern channel of the two formed by this island is the safer, and the water deepens frora 47 to 65 fathoms as you approach it from the continent. Its outline is not reraarkable, the raost conspicuous point being a round hill 600 feet high over the northern point called Cape Wickhara, We anchored in a bay on the N.W, side, under New Year Island, which affords shelter for a few vessels from all winds. There is a narrow passage between the two, but none between them and the southem point of the bay, which is open to the north-west. On the summit of one of these islands boulders of granite are strewed, and they exhibit a very re markable white appearance from seaward when the sun has passed his raeridian, A sealer had esta blished hiraself on the north island with two wives, natives of Tasraania. They were clothed in very corafortable great coats raade of kangaroo skins, and seeraed quite contented with their con dition. Their offspring appeared sharp and Intel- 264 THE MUTTON BIRD. ligent. In another part of ray work I shall touch more fully on the history of these sealers, who style theraselves Residents of the islands. They further dis tinguish their classes by the naraes of Eastern and Western Straits-men, according to the position of the islands they inhabit. The sealers on New Year Island had a large whale boat, which I was somewhat puzzled to know how they managed, there being but one man among thera. He inforraed rae, however, that his wives, the two native woraen, assisted hira to work the boat, which had been well prepared for the rough weather they have to encounter in Bass Strait by a canvass half-deck, which, lacing in the centre, could be rolled up on the gun-wale in fine weather. The principal occupation of these people during this month of the year is taking the Sooty Petrel, called by the colonists the Mutton Bird, from a fancied resemblance to the taste of that meat. It is at the present month that they resort to the island for the purpose of incubation. They con stitute the chief sustenance of the sealers, who cure thera for use and sale : their feathers also form a considerable article of trade. Many parts of the island were perfectly honeycombed with their burrows, which greatly irapede the progress of the pedestrian, and are in sorae cases dangerous frora snakes lying in them. The sealers told me that they had lost a cat which died within an hour after the bite of one of these reptiles. We here found cab bages and water, and the people informed us that CAPTAIN SMITH. 265 it was always their custom to plant a few vegetables on the islands they frequented. From the top of this island we had a good view of the Harbinger reefs, so called from a convict ship of that name which was lost upon them and all hands perished. I was glad to find they were only two detached rocks lying three miles and a half frora the shore, instead of, as reported, one continued reef lying six or seven miles frora the land. They bore north six miles from our position. The sealers inforraed us that a house which we descried in the bay, was occupied by a gentleraan who had met with a reverse of fortune. We ac cordingly paid him a visit next morning, and found that he was a Captain Sraith with whora the world had gone wrong, and who had accordingly fled as far as possible frora the society of civilized raan and taken up his residence on the shores of King Island with his faraily. He had given the narae of Port Franklin to the bay, which we changed to Franklin Road, frora its not being worthy of the title of a Port. He was led to choose his position frora its being in the neighbour hood of the only secure anchorage frora all winds, and near the best soil he had found after traversing the whole ofthe island. According to his account it was totally unfit for rearing sheep on a large scale; the bushes and grass being so full of burrs that the wool was corapletely spoiled. The soil was everywhere very inferior, and a few patches only of clean land was to be found, the principal part 266 WEST SIDE OF KING ISLAND, being overrun with dense scrub and irapervious thickets. There were few elevations on the island, and those not of any great magnitude, the loftiest point being scarcely seven hundred feet. The forraa tion of the neighbourhood of Captain Smith's house was granite : water abounds. The house in which this modern Robinson Crusoe dwelt was what is called a Slab Hut. formed of rough boards and thatched with grass. He had a garden in which grew some cabbages and a few other vegetables; but he complained sorely of blight from the west winds. There are three varieties of kangaroos on the island, and plenty of wild fowl on some of the lagoons ; so that supplies are abundant: but the few sheep he possessed were rendered of little value from the burrs I have before raentioned. I could not help pitying the condition of this gentle man and his interesting family — a wife and daughter and three or four fine boys. They had retained a few of the tastes and habits of civilized life, and I observed a good library with a flute and music in the Slab Hut. It was with great pleasure that I afterwards learned that Captain Smith's prospects had brightened. He is now, I believe, a comfortable settler on the eastern side of Tasraania. On the 29th we passed down the western shore of King Island, finding the coast to be low, treacherous and rocky. We discovered some outlying rocks a mile and half from shore, and about eleven miles south from New Year Island. The most reraark able circumstance we noticed in this part of our SEAL BAY. 267 cruise, was the leafless appearance ofthe trees on the higher parts of the island. It seeraed as though a hurricane had stripped them of their verdure. They reminded me strongly of a wintry day in the north. About eight miles from the extremity ofthe island we discovered a bay affording good anchorage in east winds. It was afterwards called Fitzmaurice Bay. From its neighbourhood a lone: dark line of black cliffs stretches southward until within about three miles of the point, when the ground sinks suddenly, whence vessels are apt to be misled and to fancy that the island ends there, whilst in reality it stretches out into alow dangerous rocky point, naraed after the writer, for about three miles raore. Rounding this we anchored on the eastern side of it in Seal Bay — a wild an chorage, the swell constantly rolling in with too much surf to allow of our commencing a series of tidal observations. This bay, in the mouth of which lies a small cluster of rocks, is separated from the one on the opposite side, by a strip of low sandy land, which, as I have said, may easily be overlooked by vessels coming from the westward. A ship indeed has been lost frora fancying that the sea was clear south of the black cliffs that skirt the shore down from Fitzmaurice Bay, The Wallaby are numerous on this part of the island. Mr. Bynoe shot one (Halmaturus JBellidereii) out of whose pouch he took a young one which he kept on board and tamed. It subsequently became a great pet with us all, I noticed here a trappean dyke, but the general 268 CROSS THE STRAIT. forraation of this end of King Island exactly cor responded with that about Captain Sraith' s house, which shews that it is a continuous ridge of granite. The south-eastern shore is rather steep, and the ground which rises abruptly over it is alraost denuded of wood. Leaving Seal Bay — frora the south point of which we saw the principal dangers at this extremity of Bass Strait, Reid's rocks bearing E. by S. j S. 12 miles — we coasted round the eastern shore and anchored off a sandy bay about the centre of the island. The only remarkable object was a rock, lying one mile frora the shore and five from Seal Bay, on which we bestowed a name suggested by its form. Brig Rdck. Off the north point of the bay in which we anchored lies a white rock or islet called Sea Elephant Rock, with a reef a mile off its north point. Opposite this is a sraall inlet fed by the drainage of sorae lagoons or swaraps behind the bay. Northward the character of the coast, as far as we could see, changes considerably, being lower, with a continued line of sandy shore. A breeze frora the eastward prevented our com pleting the survey of the northern side of the island ; but one important result we had arrived at, namely, that safe anchorage may be obtained in west winds within a moderate distance of this part of the shore in less than fifteen fathoms. We now crossed over to the group of islands fronting the north-western point of Tasraania, and confining the southern side of the raouth of the Strait. The A SECURE ANCHORAGE. 269 tide setting to the S.W. at the rate of three kno^s an hour* brought us within five miles of Reid's rocks. Passing at that distance frora their eastern side we had 28 and 30 fathoms sand and rock : and the greatest depth we found in crossing was 37 fathoms towards the south side of the Strait. Early on the morning of December 3rd, we reached a secure anchorage between Three Hummock Island, and Hunter, formerly called Barren Island ; and we had every reason to be thankful at finding ourselves in such a snug berth, for during our stay, we experienced gales frora east and west, with such sudden changes that no ship could have saved her self. This raade us sensible how necessary it was to choose anchorages sheltered from both winds. Our surveying operations were sadly delayed by this boisterous weather. Three Hummock Island receives its name frora three peaks rising on its eastern side. The south * This set of the tide being rather across the channel renders the passage between King Island and Reid's rocks by no means recommendable. Captain King on returning to New South Wales, used this passage and was very nearly wrecked ; the set of the tides at that time not being known. It appears they saw the south point of King Island just at dark, and shaped a course well wide of Reid's rocks ; they found themselves, how ever, drifted by the tide close on them. "We made the time of high water at the full and change of the moon in this entrance of the Strait to be half an hour before noon ; but the western stream began three hours and a half before, and the eastern again precedes low water by the same amount of time. 270 BARREN ISLAND, rises abruptly from the water and forms a singular sugar loaf 790 feet high. It is composed of granite, boulders of which front many of the points, forming strange figures. The whole of the island is clothed with an alraost impervious scrub, which growing laterally forms a perfect net-work, so that it is irapossible to traverse it. Mr, Bynoe procured few specimens of birds in consequence. The wood cutters one day cut a small brown opossum in half: it seemed to be a very rare if not a new aniraal; but unfortunately the head part could not be found. Sraall brown rats were very nuraerous, they had rather short tails with long hind feet, and sat up like kangaroos. The trees on this island are small and stunted, being chiefly Banksia and Eucalypti. Water is plentiful. We supplied the ship from wells dug on the north point of a sandy bay on the S.E, side of the island.* Hunter Island well deserves its former name of Barren, for it is perfectly treeless ; a green kind of scrub overruns its surface, which at its highest point is three hundred feet above the level of the sea. In form it is like a closed hand with the fore-finger extended, pointing north. The inclination of its strata differs, dipping to the sea on both sides, east and west. These at first sight appeared to be of the same kind of sandstone that * The reef that so nearly sealed the Mermaid's fate with Captain King, we found to lie half a mile north-west from the north-east end of Three Hummock Island. THE BLACK PYRAMID. 271 we had seen so rauch of on the N,W. coast, but on closer inspection I found they were raised beaches; the prevailing mass of tbe island was a granitoid rock. Frora stations on Hunter Island we were enabled to determine the positions of the numerous dangers fronting its west or seaward side, and also that of a dark raass of rock, 250 feet high, appropriately naraed the Black Pyraraid, lying 16 miles W. by N, from the centre of the island, and in lat, 40° 28' S, which places it nearly five miles south of its position in the old charts. It is quite a finger-post to this entrance of the Strait, and all ships should pass close to it. When I looked at these islands and rocks I could not help thinking of poor Captain Flinders and his enterprizing companion Mr. Bass, the discoverers of the north-western part of Tasmania. What a thrill of excitement must have shot through their frames when on rounding Hunter Island, in the little Norfolk cutter, they first felt the long swell of the ocean and became convinced of the insular character of Tasraania! This discovery raust have amply repaid them for all their toils and privations. Nothing indeed is so calculated to fill the heart of the navigator with pride, as the consciousness that he has widened the sphere of geographical science, and added new seas and new lands to the known world. The south end of Hunter Island is about three miles from a point of the raainland, called Wool- 272 WALKER ISLAND. north ; but from the rocks and inlets that encumber the passage and the rapid rush of the tide it is only navigable for sraall vessels with great caution. Point Woolnorth is a rather low sloping point composed of the same rock as Hunter Island. Ten railes south of it a raised beach again occurs 100 feet above the level of the sea. Behind Point Woolnorth the country swells into hills nearly six hundred feet high. Three railes frora its extreme is an out-station of the Van Diemen's Land Agricultural Corapany, of which I shall say more anon. Some forty persons are here located under the care of a German, who amused hiraself by raaking a large collection of insects, which he has since taken to Germany. The soil on this extre raity of Tasraania is raost productive ; but rauch labour is required in clearing for the purposes of cultivation. Frora thence to Circular Head, bear ing E. ^ S. 26 miles, the shore is low and sinuous, forming three shallow bights. Walker and Robbins islands, which lie together in the shape of an equilateral triangle, with sides of nine miles, front the coast about midway, and leave only a narrow boat channel between thera and the raain. On Walker Island our boats raet the wives of some sealers whose husbands had gone to King Island on a sealing excursion. They were clothed like those on New Year Island. One was half European and half Tasmanian, and by no means ill-looking; she spoke very good English and CIRCULAR HEAD. 273 appeared to take more care of her person than her two companions, who were aborigines of pure blood, A few wild flowers were tastefully entwined with her hair, which was dressed with some pretensions to elegance. They had a pack of dogs along with them, and depended in a great measure for their maintenance on the Wallabi they killed. The skin also of these animals constitutes to them an important article of trade. It was the 15th before we had completed for the present our survey of this part, owing as I have before observed, to the constant bad weather, which was doubly felt by the boats in which all the materials for the chart of this neighbourhood were collected. We now exarained the coast to Circular Head, under the north side of which we anchored in 7 fathoms on the morning of the 18th, after spending a day under the S.E. corner off Robbins Island, where we found good anchorage in westerly winds. Making too free with the shore with a low sun ahead, we grounded for a short tirae on a shingle spit extending off the low point N.W. from Circular Head. Three quarters of a raile E.N.E. from this point is a dangerous rocky ledge just awash, on which several vessels have run. By keeping the bluff extreme of Circular Head open it raay always be avoided. The latter is a singular cliffy mass of trappean rock, rising abruptly from the water till its flattened crest reaches an elevation of 490 feet, VOL. I. T 274 CIRCULAR HEAD. "A S.S.E, Six Miles. This strange projection stands on the eastern side of a small peninsula. On the parts broken off where it joins the sandy bay on the north side, we found the corapass perfectly useless, from the increased quantity of magnetic iron ore they contain. It is on this point that the head quarters of the Van Diemen's Land Agricultural Company are es tablished under the charge of a Mr. Curr, whose house with its extensive out-buildings and park, occu pying some rising ground on the northern part of the point, greets the eye of the stranger, to whom the reflection is forcibly suggested by the sight, that the natural graces of the scene, must soon yield to the restraining regularity with which man marks his conquests from the wilderness. The name of this faint meraento of home was, we were informed, Hyfleld ; a straggling village occupies a flat to the left, and in the bay on the south side ofthe head, which is the general anchorage, is a store with a substantial jetty. English grasses have been sown at this establish ment with great success, one acre of ground now feeding four sheep, instead of as before, four acres being required for one; the improvement in the grass was also made evident by the excellent condition in which all the stock appeared to be. HY FIELD. 275 The garden at Hyfield was quite in keeping with the other parts of the establishment, and it was not a little pleasing to observe a number of English fruit trees, I was told, however, that they suffered exceedingly from blight which was brought by the west winds. In one corner that at first escaped my ciTriosity, so completely had it been shut out frora the gaze of all by a winding bowery walk, I found in a sort of alcove, the tomb of a child ; upon it lay a fresh bouquet of flowers, revealing that the dead was not forgotten by those who were left behind. It was easy to divine, and I afterwards learned this to be the case, that it was the mother, Mrs, Curr, who came every morning to pay this tribute of affection to the departed. A vireeping willow drooped its supple branches over the tomb ; some honey- suckle and sweet-briar surrounded it, loading the air with their rich fragrance ; not even the chirping of a bird disturbed the solemn silence that reigned around; every thing seemed to con- Spire to suggest holy and melancholy thoughts, and I lingered awhile to indulge in them ; but perceiving by the few footmarks that I was an intruder, hastened to retire, by no means sorry, however, to have discovered this evidence of the enduring love a mother bears her offspring. In the Park at Hyfield were some fallow deer, imported from England, and seeming to thrive ex ceedingly well. There were also two emus, the sight of which reminded me of a very curious observa- T 2 276 SURREY HILLS. tion I had before made, and the truth of which again struck me forcibly, namely, that the face of the Emu bears a most reraarkable likeness to that of the aborigines of New South Wales. Had there been any intimacy between the native and the Emu, I might have been disposed to resort to this circumstance as an explanation ; for some maintain that the human countenance partakes of the expression and even of the form of whatever, whether man or beast, it is in the habit of associating with. The Company have another station about sixty miles S.E, from Circular Head, at the Surrey hills, from whence the road to Launceston is good and wide. But between it and Circular Head there are several rivers to ford, and the country is not only very hilly, but densely wooded with enormous trees, sorae of which I was informed were 30 feet in circumference. This causes great difficulty in clearing the land. They accomplish about fifty acres every year. The establishment consists of one hundred persons, many of whom are convicts. They are kept in excellent order ; and their being strictly forbidden the use of spirits no doubt con tributes materially to prevent their giving trouble. I could not help thinking that the Company con ducted its operations on too extensive a scale to render their undertaking profitable. The high pay of their officers, and the difficulties encountered in clearing the land, are in themselves considerable drawbacks ; especially when we consider, that after MINERAL WATERS. 277 all the pains bestowed, the soil acquired for the purposes of cultivation is often of very inferior quality. The soil on the peninsula, of which Circular Head forras the most remarkable feature, is gene rally speaking of a poor light character, and not well watered. The country lying immediately be hind it is low and cut up with branches from a large estuary. My esteemed friend. Count Strzelecki, traversed the country between Circular Head and Point Woolnorth (N.W. extreme of Tasmania), and describes it as presenting "eight rivers as difficult to cross as the Scamander, with deep gullies and rocky ridges, and marshes more difficult to over corae than either ridges or rivers." We learned there were some mineral waters about fifteen miles to the westward of Circular Head. The ingredients they contain, and their medicinal pro perties, were discovered by Count Strzelecki, who in speaking of them, says, " 1 have endeavoured to ascertain both — the latter on my own constitution, and the former by chemical analysis. They belong to a class of carbonated waters." From his exam ination he concludes, " that they are aperient and tonic, and sufficiently disgusting to the palate to pass for highly raedicinal." Whilst here, I was inforraed that a small party of natives were still at large, though seldom seen, keeping in the remotest recesses of the woods. They thus succeeded in avoiding for some years their 278 SAIL FOR THE RIVER TAMAR. enemy the white man. Indeed it was only when pressed by hunger that these aboriginal possessors of the soil ventured to emerge from their hiding- places, and rob some of the Company's out-stations of flour. By these means, however, it was that a knowledge was obtained of their existence. For, though they managed so secretly, that it was some time before they were found out, a shepherd at an out-station, began at last frequently to miss flour and tobacco* in a very mysterious manner. He determined accordingly to watch, but was for a long time unsuccessful. At length he saw a native woman steal into the hut, when he drew the door to by a line which communicated with his place of concealment. Of the treatment this poor woman received from the hands of her captor I shall treat hereafter. After being kept a prisoner some time, she was sent to Flinders Island ; but it was long before the discovery was raade that she had any companions, I was informed that the shepherd who took her, afterwards lost his life by the spear of a native, probably impelled by revenge. We completed our operations on the evening of the day on which we arrived, namely, December 18th, and left for the Tamar river, in order to mea sure a meridian distance. Passing six miles from Rocky Cape, we had 28 fathoms ; and steering east, the depth gradually increased to 42 fathoms, with a soft muddy bottom, being then twenty miles , * The fondness exhibited by the aborigines who inhabit the southern parts of Australia for smoking is extraordinary. PORT DALRYMPLE. 279 N.W. by W. from Port Dalrymple, the mouth of the Tamar. The 19th was one of the few fine days it was our good fortune to meet with, and we enjoyed a splen did view of the Alpine features of Tasmania. Towering peaks connected soraetiraes by high table lands, glittered in the sun as if capped with snow,* Early in the afternoon, the lighthouse on Low Head appeared like a white speck resting on the blue horizon ; and by evening we found ourselves at anchor just within the reefs fronting the west entrance point of Port Dalrymple. The first ap pearance of the Tamar river is not very inviting to the seaman, A rapid stream, thrown out of its course, hemraed in by numerous reefs, and passing over a bottom so uneven as to cause a change in the soundings from 12 to 26, and then 18 fathoms, with a ripple or line of broken water across the mouth renders it impossible in strong N. W. winds for a stranger to detect the channels, and raises so much sea that the pilots cannot reach the vessels that arrive off the mouth. As the Beagle passed through the west channel, the shear or first beacon on the west reefs was on with a round-topped hill some distance up the river. Although there is very apparent difficulty in navi gating the Tamar, still the first glance shows it to be a stream of iraportance. Its valley, although not wide, may be traced for miles abruptly * Near Hobarton, in February 1836, I saw snow on the side of a mountain. 280 SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. sepai'ating the ranges of hills. We can easily ima gine, therefore, the joy experienced by Captain Flinders on first discovering it in 1798, and thus bestowing a solid and lasting benefit on the future Tasmanian colonists. This is not, however, the only portion of Australasia whose inhabitants are indebted for the riches they are reaping from the soil, to the enterprizing spirit of Captain Flinders. George Town is a straggling village lying two miles within the entrance of the Tamar; in its neighbourhood were found green stone, basalt, and trappean rocks, Launceston, the northern capital of Tasmania, lies thirty miles up the river, or rather at the confluence of the two streams called the North and South Esk, which form it. We found that the Governor was attending not only to the present but the future welfare of the colonists, by examining into the most eligible spots for erecting lighthouses at the eastern entrance of Bass Strait, fronting the N. E. extreme of Tas raania, the numerous dangers besetting which have been fatal to several vessels. These buildings will be lasting records of the benefits the colony derived from Sir John Franklin's government. As we subsequently visited the Tamar, it is needless to give here the little information we gathered during our brief stay. Our observations were made on the south point of Lagoon Bay, where we found a whale boat belonging to a party of sealers just arrived with birds' feathers and skins for the Launceston market. They had left their RETURN TO PORT PHILLIP, 281 wives and families, including their dpgs, on the islands they inhabit. On the morning of the 22nd, we were again out of the Tamar, and making the best of our way to Port Phillip for a meridian distance. There was little tide noticed in the middle of the Strait ; the greatest depth we found was 47 fathoras, 68 railes N.W. from the Tamar, where the nature of the bottora was a grey muddy sand or marl. At noon on the 23rd, we entered Port Phillip, and ran up through the West Channel in three and three and a half fathoms. Point Lonsdale, the west entrance point, being kept open of Shortland bluff — a cliffy projection about two miles within it — leads into the entrance ; and a clump of trees on the northern slope of In dented Head, was just over a solitary patch of low red cliffs, as we cleared the northern raouth of the channel. From thence to Hobson's Bay, where we anchored at 3, p, m., the course is N, by W. 22 miles across a splendid sheet of water, of which the depth is 11 and 13 fathoms. William Town, the sea-port town of Australia Felix, named after his Majesty King William IY., stands on a very low piece of land forming the southern shore of Hobson's Bay, called Point Gelli- brand, after a gentleman from Hobarton, one of the first who brought stock to Port Phillip, He was lost in the bush in a very mysterious manner in 1 834. No trace of hira or his horse was found till 282 RIVER YARRA-YARRA, 1842, when some of the natives showed where his mouldering bones lay. The point that bears his name scarcely projects sufficiently to afford large ships shelter from south winds in Hobson's Bay, In the N.W. corner of the latter is the mouth of the Yarra-yarra river ; but although only one mile and a half from the general anchorage, it is very difficult to be made out. The following anecdote will illustrate the difficulty of detecting the mouths of rivers in Australia, Soon after we anchored in Hobson's Bay, a small schooner passed, going to Melbourne. Several of the officers were at the time standing on the poop, and each selected a spot at which the schooner was to enter the river ; and although, as I have before stated, we were only one mile and a half from it, none of us was right. A single tall bushy topped tree, about a raile inland, rose over the schooner as she left the waters of Hobson's Bay. Williara Town consisted, at that time, of only a few houses. One disadvantage under which this place labours is badness of water, while the country around it is a dead level, with clumps of very open woodland. The formation is whinstone, but the soil's fertile quality shows an absence of sandstone. Proceeding up the Yarra-yat-ra, we found that about two miles from the mouth, the river divides, one branch continuing in a northerly direction, and the other, a narrow sluggish streara, turning suddenly off to the eastward. The banks are so MELBOURNE. 283 densely wooded, that it is seldom if ever that its surface is ruffled by a breeze. The township of Melbourne on its north bank, five railes frora the river's raouth, we found a very bustling place. Nearly two thousand persons had already con gregated there, and more were arriving every day, so that great speculation was going on in land. We were delighted with the park-like appearance of the country, and the rich quality of the soil. This was the most fertile district we had seen in all Aus tralia ; and I believe every one allows that such is the case. Its reputation indeed was at one time so great, that it becarae the point of attraction for all settlers from the raother country, where at one time the rage for Port Phillip became such, that there existed scarcely a village in which some ofthe inhabitants, collecting their little all, did not set out for this land of promise, with the hope of rapidly making a fortune and returning to end their days in comfort at home. Every one I think must leave with such hopes ; for who can deli berately gather up his goods and go into a far country with the settled intention of never returning? A rocky ledge extends across the river fronting the to^vn, upon which the plan had been formed of erecting a dam for the purpose of keeping the water fresh ; whereas now the river is salt above the town, and the well water is not particularly good. The Yarra-yarra is not navigable even for boats many miles beyond Melbourne, on accountof the numerous falls. Some of the reaches above the town are very 284 SINGULAR CUSTOM. picturesque — still glassy sheets of water stretch between steep banks clothed with rich vegetation down to the very edge of the stream ; — the branches of the trees droop over the smooth surface, and are vividly reflected ; and substance is so perfectly blended with shadow, that it is impossible to detect where they unite. At the w-estern extremity of Melbourne is a low round hill, fifty-seven feet above the level of the sea by our observations, and about thirty above the town. There are now none of the aborigines in the neighbourhood of Melbourne ; but I learned that some of their old men remember the time when the site of the town was under water, in consequence of one of those sudden inundations that happen in Australia, and are so rauch in keeping with the other strange things that occur there. Having alluded to the natives, I may here mention a sin gular custom that came under notice some time after, at the Protectorate in the valley ofthe Loddon, in the vicinity of Melbourne. Several women were observed having their faces completely concealed by their opossum skin mantles. Not satisfied with this moreover, in passing a party of men, they moved in a sidelong manner, so as to render it im possible, even if the covering carae to be displaced, that their faces should be seen. In the evening at the Corobbery, these persons, three in number, were seated in the circle of women, so as to have their backs turned to the dancers or actors, their faces still being wholly concealed. They remained MANNA, 285 seated, motionless, taking no part in the singing or the gestures of encouragement indulged in by the other women. It was subsequently explained by a protector, that these were women who had daughters betrothed to the men of their tribe, and that during the period of betrothment the mothers are always thus rigidly veiled. Near Mount Macedon, thirty miles N.W. from Melbourne, there has been discovered, I was in formed, a quarry of marble of a very fine quality ; and in the same neighbourhood is an extinct crater. The formation at and in the iraraediate vicinity of Melbourne, is of tertiary deposits associated with arenaceous older rocks. We returned to the ships by a short route lead ing direct from Melbourne to the northern shore of Hobson's Bay, During the walk I was much struck with the great risk that people run in select ing land from a map of this country, half of our road lying over a rich loam, and the other half over soft sand. The trees svvarmed with large locusts (the cicada), quite deafening us with their shrill buzzing noise. We found the branches of these trees and the ground underneath strewed over with a white substance resembling small flakes of snow, called by the colonists manna, I ara aware that an erroneous idea exists that this raatter is deposited by the locusts ; but in fact it is an exudation frora the Eucalyptus ; and although I saw it beneath another kind of tree, it raust have been carried there by the wind, A different sort, of a pale yellow 286 hobson's bay. colour, is found on a smaller species of Eucalyptus growing on highlands, and is much sought after for food by the natives, who sometimes scrape from the tree as much as a pound in a quarter of an hour. It has the taste of a delicious sweetmeat, with an almond flavour, and is so luscious that much can- not be eaten of it. This is well worthy of attention from our confectioners at home, and it may here after form an article of commerce, although from what has fallen under my own observation, and from what I have learnt from Mr. Eyre and others, I should say it is not of frequent occurrence. The first kind, being found strewed underneath the tree probably exudes from the leaf, whilst the second oozes from the stera. The wood of the latter is much used for fuel by the natives, especially in night-fishing, and burns brightly, without smoke, diffusing also a delicious aromatic sraell. Oh Christmas day, which we spent in Hobson's Bay, we experienced one of those hot winds which occasionally occur coming off the land. During its prevalence, everything assumes a strange appear ance, — objects are seen with difficulty, and acquire a tremulous motion like that which is imparted to everything seen through the air escaping from an over-heated stove. The therraoraeter oil a wall under the glare of the sun, stood at 135", We surveyed Hobson's Bay during our stay, and connected it by triangulation with Melbourne, Our observations were raade at the inner end of a small jetty. The mouth df the Yarra-yarra is closed CORIO HARBOUR. 287 up by a bar, which from its soft muddy nature may be easily removed. The deepest water we found on it at high tide was nine feet. Having com pleted our operations, we next morning, January 1st, 1839, departed for Corio Harbour, situated at the head of a deep inlet midway on the western shore of Port Phillip, We found our progress im peded as we beat up it by a long spit, extending two thirds of the way across from a low projecting point lyingraidway on the north shore. On the opposite side, the land is of moderate elevation, and has in many places a most inviting rich park-like appearance, swelling on all sides into grassy downs, with patches of open woodland interspersed. In the afternoon we anchored in three fathoms, about a quarter of a mile from the south point of Corio Harbour. This is a level expanse of land named Point Henry, frora which a long spit extends, leaving only a shoal channel between it and the northern shore. Thus, though the harbour has apparently a broad open mouth, it is impossible for a large vessel to enter it. January 2. — After breakfast a party of us went to visit Captain Fyans, the police magistrate of the district, for the purpose of arranging a trip to Station Peak, We landed on the S,W. corner of Corio Harbour, where we found four fathoms close to the beach, iraraediately over which is the north end of the township of Geelong, A kind of store and two other wooden buildings pointed out its locality. Captain Fyans was living in a log-hut on the banks of the Marabul River. Our road thither 288 RIVER BARWON. lay west about three miles across a woody down. The Marabul runs to the southward, and joins the Barwon flowing from the west ; after which the united streams take a south-easterly direction. The course of the latter I was anxious to trace, having seen its raouth in passing along the coast west from Port Phillip, Very opportunely I met with Mr, Smith, belonging to the colonial surveying depart ment, who being employed in the neighbourhood, took me to a commanding station on some low hills about three miles to the south, called by the natives Barabul, We crossed the Barwon running to the south-east at the foot of them, near where it fell some height over a rocky shelf forming a pretty waterfall. Turning to the left from this roar of water, you find the stream meandering silently Jbetween rich grassy flats. On one of these Mr. Smith's tents were pitched, overlooked by a craggy height on the opposite side of the river ; and the blue stream of smoke that arose from the fire of his partjr, helped to impart life and beauty to the scene. From the Barabul hills I alraost traced the Barwon to its confluence with the sea. Five miles to the south-east from where we stood it coraraunicated with a large lagoon ; after leaving which, I was inforraed there was only a depth of three feet, and a width of one eighth of a mile. It is not, however, this alone that renders the Barwon useless for water-carriage to the town of Geelong ; for the exposed situation of its mouth almost always prevents boats from entering. STATION PEAK. 289 The singular sloping treeless sides of the Bara bul hills, and the declivities of the valley of the Marabul river, bear a striking reserablance to many parts of Eastern Patagonia. They appear as if they had just emerged from the sea, which had as it were scooped out their hollows and smoothed their sides. A remarkable high round hill, perfectly bare of trees, and called by the natives Moriac, bore W,|^ S, six miles from where we stood. On our return we met sorae of the natives ; they were the first I had seen of the aborigines of this part of the continent, and were certainly a finer race than the people on the western coasts. They coraplained of the white men bringing animals into their country that scare away the kangaroo, and destroy the roots which at certain seasons of the year form part of their sustenance. This, Mr. Smith told me, was a very general complaint, I spent a very pleasant evening at Captain Fyans' comfortable quarters, in the course of which arrangements were made for next day's journey to Station Peak, Mr, Smith kindly offering to lend me a horse and to accorapany rae, January 3. — We started for Station Peak very early. The raorning air had a delightfully bracing effect ; and the grass glittered with a copious fall of dew. The first five miles of road lay over a high down, with pretty patches of woodland interspersed ; and the remaining ten over a low plain that stretches to the foot of the peak. Six miles from the latter we VOL. I. t; 290 VIEW FROM STATION PEAK. crossed a hollow where I noticed some calcareous mat ter, in which were included shells of recent species, evidently showing that an upheaval had taken place in this part of the continent. We saw on the plain several large bustards resembling a light brown domestic turkey. Leaving our horses at the foot of the peak, we ascended it by a sloping ridge on the south-east face, Huge blocks of granite — some poised on a point as if the slightest touch would send thera rolling and thundering to the plains below — covered the sides and suraraits of this and the sraaller peak, to the north of which are several others scattered over about a mile of ground. On reaching the summit, I hastened to a pile of stones which Captain Flinders had erected to com memorate his visit ; but, alas, the bottle and paper left by him were gone, and I have not since been able to learn who it was that took away this interest ing and valuable record. The view coramanded all points of the splendid sheet of water called Port Phillip, which stretched away its shining expanse seeraingly almost from our very feet ; whilst north east two long wavy lines of trees showed the course of the Little and Weariby rivers meandering through the plain. The natives call this cluster of peaks Ude (great) Youang, and the other W,N,W. seven miles, Anuke (little) Youang, Another solitary high round hill, fifteen miles further nearly, in the same direction, is called Bununyong, FOSSIL SHELLS. 291 We have thus five native names of places in the immediate neighbourhood of Port Phillip, having the termination ng, and we may perhaps add another, the Barwon being probably Barwong. At King George's Sound in Western Australia, the naraes end in up, and again to the eastward, near Gipps' Land, the final letter is n. These observations may probably assist in directing the attention of philolo gists to the subject ofthe distribution ofthe Austra lian dialects or languages, Ude Youang, or as Captain Flinders named it, , Station Peak, is a granite raass elevated 1370 feet above the sea. At Geelong there is sorae con fusion in the formation. The rocks, however, that prevail are trappean. In digging a well there, a fossil cowrie {cyprcea exitnia) of an extinct species was onee found at the depth of sixty feet. Another specimen of the same shell was dug up at Franklin village near Launceston, from a hundred and forty feet below the surface of the soil. Count Strzelecki gives a figure of it in his interesting work. Mr. Ronald Gunn, in his observations on the flora of Geelong, observes that out of a hundred species of plants collected indiscriminately, sixty- seven were also to be found in Tasraania, leaving only thir ty- three to indicate the peculiarities of the G eelong vegetation. Some of the officers of the Beagle exhibited at this place symptoms of being infected with the land- u 2 292 Arthur's seat. speculating mania we had witnessed at Melbourne, by bidding for some of the allotraents of the town ship of Geelong, which were just then selling. One that was bought for £80. raight have been sold a year afterwards for 700/. I raention this fact that the reader may see what a ruinous system was then in vogue. On the morning of January 5, we left Geelong, touched at Hobson's Bay for a chronometric depar ture, and proceeded to sea by the south channel, Arthur's Seat is a good guide for its entrance from Hobson's Bay, the channel passing close under the foot of it. The eastern extremity of the northern banks, we found very difficult to make out, from the water being but slightly discoloured on it. It is, moreover, on account of its steepness, dangerous to approach. Frora this eastern corner of the bank, Arthur's Seat bears S. 50|^° W. and a solitary patch of cliff, westward of the latter, S. 68" E. In consequence of bad weather it was three days before we passed through the channel, which, we were pleased to find navigable for line of battle ships. A W. I N. course led through, and the least water was five fathoras on a bar at the eastern entrance, where the width is only three-tenths of a mile, whilst in the western it is one raile, with a depth of seventeen fathoms. When in the latter we saw Flinders Point between Lonsdale and Nepean Points, and as we came down the channel, the last two points were just open of each other. PORT WESTERN. 293 Leaving Port Phillip, we surveyed the coast to the eastward, and anchored in the entrance of Port Western, after dark on the 10th, Next morning we exarained the south-west part of Grant island, and moved the ship to a more secure anchorage off its N, E, point. Port Western is formed between Grant and French islands in rather a remarkable manner : two great bays lie one within the other, the inner being nearly filled up by French island, whilst the outer is sheltered by Grant island, stretch ing across it almost from point to point, and leaving a wide ship-channel on its western side, whilst on the eastern the passage is narrow and fit only for boats and small vessels. Gales between N, W. and S, W, detained us here until the 19th, We found water by digging on the N. E, extrerae of Grant Island, which at high tide is a low sandy islet. On first landing there, we found in a clurap of bushes a kangaroo, very dark- coloured, indeed alraost black. His retreat being cut off he took to the water, and before a boat could reach hira, sank. This not only disappointed but surprised us ; for in Tasmania a kangaroo has been known to swim nearly two miles. Black swans were very numerous, and it being the moulting season, were easily run down by the boats. Their outstretched necks and the quick flap of their wings as they raoved along, rerainded us forcibly of a steam boat. At this season of the year when the swans cannot fly, a great act of cruelty is practised PORT WESTERN. on them by those who reside on the islands in Bass Strait, and of whom I have before spoken as sealers: — they take them in large numbers and place them in confinement, without any thing to eat, in fact almost starve them to death, in order that the down may not be injured by the fat which generally covers their bodies. Scarcely any traces are now to be found of the old settlement on a cli% point of the eastern shore of the harbour. The rapid growth of indigenous vegetation has completely concealed all signs of human industry, and the few settlers in the neigh bourhood have helped themselves to the bricks to build their own horaes. We noticed, however, one or two remaining in dications of the fact that a settlement had formerly existed on that spot, among others an old flag-staff still erect, on a bluff near the N.E, end of Grant Island. A very large domestic cat, also, was seen on the S. E. point, doubtless another relic of the first settlers. The rocks chiefly to be met with at Port Western are analogous to those of the Carboniferous series. Over its eastern shore rises a range of woody hills to the height of between five and seven hundred feet, stretching away in a N,E, direction. This harbour presents one very curious feature, namely, a sort of canal or gut in the mud flats that front the eastern side of Grant Island. Its depth varies from six to seven fathoras, whilst the width is half-a-mile. SNAKE ADVENTURE, 295 The most remarkable object, however, is the helmet-shaped headland, rising abruptly from the sea to the height of 480 feet, and forraing the S.E. extreme of Grant Island. It is the more conspi cuous from the circumstance that all the rest of the island is covered with low hills, clothed in an almost irapervious scrub. The land at the head of the inner of the two bays I have alluded to in describing Port Western, partakes of the sarae character, and is intersected by a nuraber of creeks. This greatly increases the difficulty of the over land communication between Port Phillip and the available land on Port Western, travellers being compelled to take a very circuitous road in order to avoid this almost impassable tract, and reach the banks of Bass river, where the best soil is found, and which has been named after the enterprising man whose memory must for ever remain intimately connected with this part of the world. A few rare insects were collected by Mr. Emery, whose adventures with snakes bear a great resem blance to some of Waterton's. He was walking out once on Grant Island, when his attention was attracted by the pitiful cries of a bird in a tree close at hand. He soon discovered that a snake* was in the act of robbing the nest, whilst the mother fluttering round, was endeavouring to scare away the spoiler. Mr, Emery immediately climbed up, and with a courage which few other men would * Lieut, Emery has this snake still in his possession, stuffed in a masterly style, and set up with the bird in its mouth. 296 CAPABILITIES OF PORT WESTERN. have exhibited, seized the reptile by the back of the. neck and killed it. We found that it had already swallowed one of the young ones, which had so extended the skin, and made so large a lump, that we were quite puzzled to know how it could have been got down. We were astonished to find the tide here nearly an hour later than at Port Phillip, and higher by six feet. The cause of this peculiarity is no doubt to be attributed to the fact of the tides at Port Western being influenced by the easterly flood- streara. The bad weather we experienced during our stay enabled us to judge of the capabilities of the Port, which we were glad to find the finest we had yet seen in Bass Srait, not so rauch, however, from its size, for above Grant Island the extent of deep water is limited, as from the great facility of access. On the 19th we left Port Western, passing out by keeping an isolated piece of table land, called Tortoise Head, on the S.E, extremity of French Island, open of the N.E, point of Grant Island. The only danger is a sandbank, lying in the centre of the channel, four miles within the entrance. It may always be avoided by keeping a cable's length from the eastern shore. The western half of the south side of Grant Island, is a line of cliffs, from one to three hundred feet in height, A reraarkable pyraraidal rock marks the point where this terminates, after which a long range of low hills, covered with scrub, stretches to Cape Wollami, the helmet-shaped head- EXTRAORDINARY SOUNDINGS. 297 land before-mentioned. A light N.E. wind rendered our progress slow towards Cape Patterson, we reach ing it by daylight of the 20th, It is a low point, covered with scattered sand hillocks ; a few rocky patches here and there front its sand beach. Finding from the succession of dense fogs that we could not prosecute an easterly examination of the coast, we returned towards Port Phillip, and expe rienced some unusual swells off Port Western. The soundings were in general tolerably regular ; but in the sarae neighbourhood we had sorae extra ordinary ones — seventy fathoms, on a gravelly bot tom. This was nearly one third of the way across from Grant Island to Cape Shanck, seven miles from the latter. The same strange depth was likewise found three miles south frora Cape Wol lami, with the same kind of gravel bottora, or a very fine kind of shingle. It was a single cast of the lead. On either side in this last case were 39 and 33 fathoras fine sand and shells. Had it not been for the change in the quality of the bottora, I should have doubted so great a depth, which is the more remarkable from its being the greatest within the Strait. The next day towards evening we again anchored in Hobson's Bay, where we staid till the 23rd. This time in getting out of Port Phillip through the southern channel, we met with an accident. I have before mentioned the difficulty of seeing the eastern part of the north bank, which, on this occasion. 298 BELL ROCK. combined with the dazzling effect of the ^ sun's rays a-head, was the cause of our s grounding for a short time near the inner cd entrance. It was, therefore, noon next day before we were again outside, when we steered across for the north end of King Island, January 26, — In passing Franklin Road the next morning, we saw a cutter at anchor, doubtless the colonial vessel which is occasionally allowed to visit Captain Smith, and afford hira supplies. We passed down four miles from the western side of King Island, carrying an outline of soundings, varying from 40 to 50 fathoras ; and in the evening anchored in Fitzraaurice Bay, Next morning we proceeded in search of Bell Rock,* lying in the middle of the south entrance of Bass Strait, eight miles S. frora the northern and largest of Reid's Rocks ; but there being only a light air stirring from the westward, we were almost whollv • at the mercy of the tide, which carried us ^ midway between its assigned position and ^ the last-mentioned dangers. We passed near several small eddies and slight whirlpools, in which no bottom was ^ o' * A rock was seen in H. M, S, Conway, five ;^' miles W.S.W. from Bell Rock. i BLACK PYRAMID. 299 found in the boats with 25 fathoms. The N. W extremity of Reid's Rock might with propriety be described as a small islet, it being a dark mass some half a mile long, and rising 25 feet out of the water. The French charts exhibit some sunken rocks to the north of this ; but, if they really exist, of which there is great doubt, we saw nothing of thera. I may here mention, that great circumspection should be used by vessels in the neighbourhood of Reid's Rocks, as the soundings do not indicate their approach, and as the tide runs among them with great rapidity. Between thera and the Black Pyraraid we had 35 and 32 fathoms. We passed the night standing to and fro close to the Pyraraid, which I have before described as a dark rocky lurap 240 feet high. Its western side is a sombre storm beaten cliff, whilst to the east it slopes away almost to the water's edge. A few patches of coarse grass may be seen on some sheltered spots. Sealers, I am informed, have landed upon it on certain rare occa sions of fine weather, and have been repaid for their daring by capturing a few fur-seals from the rookery that there exists. The Black Pyramid from some points of view, greatly resembles Curtis Island, near the eastern entrance of the Strait. A mile and a half from its eastern side, there was only 24 fathoms, which was the least water we were in during the night. January 27- — We found ourselves at daylight in 35 fathoms, two miles S.W. from the Pyramid, when 300 ALBATROSS ISLAND. we stood away E.S.E,, to sound and have a seaward view of the entrance between Hunter Island and Point Woolnorth, This examination confirmed our former opinion that no ship-channel existed there. But even if there had been one, the passage is so strewed with rocks and disturbed by such heavy tide ripples, that it wears a most dangerous appear ance from the offing. Rounding the south side of the south Black Rock, we went between it and Steep Island in 19 fathoms. From thence we steered between the north Black Rock and the west point of Hunter Island in 24 fathoms, having 15 fathoms midway between. Con tinuing our northern course, we passed a mile from the west side of Albatross Island, in 30 and 33 fathoms. It ^s a dark cliffy isle, the summit of which although 125 feet high, appears to be some times washed by the sea. There are one or two finger-shaped points of rock at the south end ; and a singular split in the entire island may be seen on the bearing of N, 75° E, The wind had now increased to a gale from the westward, and we were obliged to seek shelter under Hunter Island. January 28, — In the morning the breeze was moderate from N.E,, to which quarter it had changed suddenly during the night, veering round from west by the north. By noon it had shifted to E.N.E, and had increased to a gale. At 8, p. m. it blew a strong gale with gusts frora that quarter. The baroraeter had now just begun to fall, and was at 29.9. During the day it had been steady at FIRE ON THREE HUMMOCK ISLAND, 301 30.02. This gale lasted, blowing with the same vio lence, (latterly frora E.) until 1, p, m. the next day, when after a calm of about a quarter of an hour the wind changed suddenly toN, with rain, thunder, and vivid lightning, and by 4, p, m, had veered to west and increased once more to a strong gale with heavy squalls. The barometer at the same time began to rise ; it had been stationary at 29.6, since the morning. It was the evening of the 31st before this gale blew over, after veering to the S,W. The barome ter at the time was at 29-9. having risen to that height in the morning. The rotatory character of this storm, which reserabled those we had experienced on our former visit, induces me to enter thus into details respecting it. These observations, too, may evince more plainly, the necessity of an anchorage at this time of the year being sheltered from both east and west winds. The fire that had been accidentally kindled on Three Humraock Island, when we were last there, was still burning. This conflagration had alraost been fatal to Mr, Bynoe, who was out in the scrubs when it burst forth, having with great difficulty forced his way araong thera in search of specimens for his collection of birds. His attention was sud denly roused by the roaring of the flaraes as they swept down the sides of the hills, wrapping thera in a sheet of fire. The predicament in which he was placed was a most critical one, as he hardly knew which way to turn to avoid the pressing danger. S02 LEAVE FOU CIRCULAR HEAD. Even when, fortunately, he had taken the right direction, it was with the greatest exertion that he burst through the matted thicket and reached the water's edge before the fire. Our fishermen were very successful with the hook and line, taking near the rocks great numbers of fish, some of which were a species of rock cod. Alongside the ship we only caught sharks, one of which contained thirty-six young ones. Although the barometer reraained stationery at 29.9. the weather continued so boisterous, and westerly squalls followed each other in such rapid succession, that it was the 3rd of February, before we could coraraence work in earnest. On that day the ship was moved to near the south end of Hunter Island, where we found a nice quiet anchorage with scarcely any tide off a long sandy beach. By the 6th we completed what remained to be done of the survey of this part, and proceeded to collect the necessary soundings between Three Hummock Island, and Circular Head, anchoring under the latter the sarae evening. Here we met Mr, Curr, the Company's Superintendent, who was absent during our first visit. From him we experienced so great hospitality, that our stay appeared shorter than it really was. On the raorning of the 9th we again left. It was our intention to have stood oyer midway across the Strait in search of some islands reported by the French to be thereabouts, though all the local information we could gaiu on the sub ject tended to induce a disbelief of their existence. HEAVY GALE. 303 But the sky assuming a threatening aspect, and the wind increasing from the westward, we sought shelter under the S.E. end of Robbin Island. And it was well we did so ; for during the following two days, it blew the heaviest gale we had yet met with in the Strait. A succession of violent gusts from the west, with loud thunder, vivid lightning, and much rain, constantly reminded us of the wisdom of our cautious proceeding. At Port Phillip this sarae storm was felt very severely. Such was its strength and violence, that many houses were unroofed, and other daraage done to a large araount. It passed over both Melbourne and Geelong, darkening the air with the clouds of dust it bore along with it, and filling the minds of the inha bitants with the greatest terror and apprehension. They called it a tornado ; and it appeared to have quite the rotatory character of a hurricane. February 11, — 'We left this anchorage, and passed three miles from the N.E. side of Three Hum mock Island where we found only six fathoms, apparently on a bank thrown up by the tide sweep ing round its sides. From thence we steered across the Strait to Sea Elephant Rock on the eastern shore of King Island. We saw nothing of the islands laid down by the French, thirteen leagues east of it, and it was my firm belief that they had no existence. Subsequent observation has confirmed this belief. We however found the shoal water supposed to exist thereabouts. The northern terraination of the highland over 304 WILD DOGS. the south-eastern part of the island which marks Sea Elephant Bay was very apparent as we ap proached. In the evening we anchored in seven fathoms on the north side of Sea Elephent Rock, which we visited the following morning. It is nearly a mile in circumference, and 120 feet high, clothed with a coarse wiry grass. A sraall vessel if properly moored might find shelter under it from easterly gales. We were surprised to find the time of high water here nearly two hours earlier than at Three Humraock Island ; the flood-stream came frora the southward. Of the nuraber of wild dogs that we had heard of as being on this island, we saw only two. Frora the bones we found of others it is more than probable that they live upon each other at the seasons of the year when the mutton birds having departed ; they would otherwise have to depend solely for subsistence on the few shell fish adhering to the rocks. This reminded me of what I once witnessed on an island off the eastern coast of Patagonia. Several herds of deer had once existed upon it ; but sorae persons having turned a number of dogs loose, the original inhabitants were soon destroyed, and the new-comers afterwards devoured each other, so that when I saw them, but a small remnant remained. The dos:s on Sea Elephant Rock, which were left by sealers, had grown so wild that they would not allow us to ap proach thera. I saw here sorae small penguins, a bird we rarely met with in the Strait. This part of King Island is clothed with thick NAVARIN AND HARBINGER ROCKS, 30 > scrubs, among which we saw numerous tracks of kan garoos, a certain sign that it is not much frequented by civilized or uncivilized raan. Leaving this anchorage we examined the eastern shore of the island which we found, as I have before described, to be low and sandy. Passing along two railes frora it, we had a depth of from 8 to 12 and 15 fathoras. As we approached the northern end, the character of the coast changed, it being formed by rocky points with small sand bays intervening. The reef laid down by the French, two miles frora the N.E. extremity of the island, we found to be only half a mile S.S.W, from it, one of the many errors we discovered in the French chart of the strait. It is a small ugly ledge quite beneath the water, and from the absence of rocky points on the low sandy shore it fronts, is quite unlooked for. The next day, February 13th, we examined the dangers fronting the north side of the island, con sisting of Navarin and Harbinger Rocks, neither of which we found so formidable or so far from the shore as had been reported. The former lies only a mile and a half off the north end, and although we did not pass between it and the shore, there is little doubt that a passage exists. We passed between the Harbinger rocks in 27 fathoms ; this great depth in their iraraediate vicinity, gives no warning of their proximity in the night or during thick weather. As it was now necessary for us to think of pre- VOL, I, X 306 COMPLETE THE SURVEY OF PORT PHILLIP. paring for our return to the North coast, the proper season for passing through Torres Strait also approaching, and the increasing importance of Port Phillip, rendering it desirable to coraplete our sur vey of its entrance before our departure ; we con sequently proceeded thither. We found even sound ings of 53 fathoras extend twenty miles N. by E. from Harbinger Reef, but from thence northwards, the depths gradually decreased. Calras and light winds rendered the passage across very tedious. We spent one night at anchor in 31 fathoras near the entrance, about six miles south frora Point Flinders, where the tide scarcely ran a knot an hour ; the flood streara set N.E, With these ope rations closed our work in Bass Strait, for the present. We had completed the western entrance from Port Western on the north shore and Circular Head on the south. The weather had prevented our doing raore, and obtaining as many sound ings as we could have wished. It had been unusually boisterous and unsettled, much more so than the winter generally is. From all I could learn such a season had not been experienced in the memory of the oldest inhabitants. March 1 . — Bidding adieu to our hospitable friends, we left Port Phillip, and having spent a night at Port Western, stood out from it next morning, and passed over in 12 and 15 fathoras, the patch of discoloured water discovered by Flinders, two railes south of the reraarkable round islet, that lies off PIGEON HOUSE. 307 the western e.xtrerae of Grant Island, Pursuing our course to the eastward, we were detained by contrary winds for sorae tirae among the islands at the eastern entrance of the Strait, All these we found to be considerably out in position, shewing the necessity of an accurate survey. We were exceedingly delighted when on the 5th we were enabled fairly to turn our back on Bass Strait, that region of storms, which stretched behind us as we receded like a black mass resting on the horizon. A strong south-wester soon carried us far away from it in the direction we had been so long endeavour ing to pursue. At noon on the 8th, we were close in with the land in the neighbourhood of Jervis Bay, A long line of cliffs fronts the shore ; but the highlands recede as in the neighbourhood of Sydney, leaving a low tract of country between them and the sea. To the S.W. of this bay, we had an excellent view of that singular landmark, which Captain Cook, with his usual felicity in the choice of names, called the Pigeon House, It was just open of the south end of some table lands, and resembled a cupola superimposed upon a large dome. Next day in the forenoon, we again arrived at Sydney ; where we reraained from March 10th to May 21st, eraploying the tirae in corapleting our charts, sending horae tracings of thera, and prepar ing for our cruise on the Northern coast. I was glad to find the return raeridian distance between x 2 308 DROUGHT AT SYDNEY, Port Phillip and Sydney agree with the going one, placing the jetty at William's Town 6° 19' 14" west of Fort Macquarie, Everything was still suffering frora one of those fearful droughts that occasionally visit this colony, but are as yet unknown in Western Australia, where the seasons are certain, although available land is scarce. An idea may be forraed of the nature of this visitation, when I say, that for sorae tirae previous to our former departure from Sydney, during the whole of our absence, and for several months subsequent to our return, not a drop of rain fell. The consequence of this was, that the whole country was dried up, and the dust lay on the roads, especially towards Paramatta, at least a foot thick. Whoever atterapted to travel, there fore, seemed, if the wind blew, as though he had been passing through a raill. It will readily be imagined that so long a succession of dry seasons, did prodigious injury to the stock, and utterly ruined the wheat crops. To add to the distress then occa sioned, the people of Tasmania seizing on the opportunity, raised the price of grain, expecting to make a large profit. But their avidity in this instance over-reached itself. Instead of sending to them for corn, the people of Sydney despatched vessels to South Araerica, and as the early cargoes that arrived sold to advantage, a great deal of money was embarked in the speculation. Soon, however, the natural conse quence ensued. The market became glutted, cargo after cargo carae in, the purchasers held back, prices MR, USBORNE LEAVES, 309 fell, and in many instances the importers were glad to dispose of their wheat at a rate far inferior to what it had been shipped at. I have no doubt that the financial derangement caused by so large an amount of bullion going out of the country, (for all these cargoes were bought with ready money), had much to do with the subsequent depression. I may here take an opportunity of remarking that, as a general rule, it is the labouring classes that thrive best at Sydney. They can in tolerably prosperous times, earn suflicient in three or four days, to support themselves throughout the week. During the remainder of the tirae, the sober and industrious man eraploys himself in building a house ; but I ara sorry to say that the generality repair to the vast number of public houses that swarm on every side, and get drunk. This is evi dent from the annual revenue derived from rura, which in 1839 was £190,000, amounting to more than seven gallons for every individual in the colony. It caused us extrerae regret that before our de parture frora Sydney, we were deprived of Mr, Usborne's valuable services. He was compelled to return home in consequence of the dreadful wound he had received frora a musket ball, which, as has already been related, passed through his body. In hira the expedition sustained a great loss ; his presence and society were missed by all ; and his departure was generally felt. It may easily be con- SlO MR. CUNNINGHAM. ceived indeed that the separation from a friend and messmate under such circurastances, raust have cast for a time a shade of sadness over our minds. Mr. Usborne took charge of the charts which we sent to England on this occasion, I cannot leave Sydney without alluding to our raeeting with Mr. Cunninghara, the Botanist, whose death I have already raentioned, as having taken place two months after our departure from Sydney. Though worn out by disease, and evidently on the brink of the grave, the fire of enthusiasra kindled in his frarae, and his eyes glistened as he talked of our projected enterprise ; and it was with difficulty that he could be dissuaded frora accompanying us. His name, which will be reraerabered by his friends on account of his raany amiable qualities, will not be forgotten by posterity ; for it has become asso ciated with the lands he explored, as well as with the natural productions he described. The presence and attention of his valued friend Capt. P, P. King, contributed to soothe his last moments. CHAPTER X. SYDNEY TO PORT ESSINGTON. LEAVE SYDNEY — GALE AND CURRENT — PORT STEPHEN — TAH- LEE RIVER KARUAH STROUD WILD CATTLE — INCIVI LITY OF A SETTLER RIVER ALLYN MR. BOYDELL — CULTI VATION OF TOBACCO — A CLEARING LEASE — WILLIAM RIVER CROSSING THE KARUAH AT NIGHT— SAIL FROM PORT STEPHEN BREAKSEA SPIT DISCOVER A BANK CAPE CAPRICORN — NORTHUMBERLAND ISLES — SANDAL WOOD CAPE UPSTART DISCOVER A RIVER RAISED BEACH — SECTIONOF BARRIERREEF — NATIVES — PLANTS AND ANIMALS MAGNETICAL ISLAND HALIFAX BAY HEIGHT OF COR DILLERA FITZROY ISLAND — HOPE ISLAND VERIFYING CAPTAIN king's ORIGINAL CHART — CAPE BEDFORD NEW GEOLOGICAL FEATURE LIZARD ISLANDS CAPTAIN COOK — BARRIER AND REEFS WITHIN — HOWICK GROUP NOBLE ISLAND — CAPE MELVILLE — REEF NEAR CAPE FLINDERS — PRINCESS charlotte's BAY SECTION OF A DETACHED REEF TIDE AT CLAREMONT ISLES — RESTORATION ISLAND ISLANDS FRONTING CAPE GRENVILLE BOYDAN ISLAND CORRECT CHART — TIDES — CAIRNCROSS ISLAND ESCAPE RIVER CORRECT POSITION OF REEFS YORK ISLES TIDES TORRES STRAIT ENDEAVOUR STRAIT — BOOBY ISLAND REMARKS ON BARRIER AND ITS CONTIGUOUS ISLANDS AND REEFS — CAPE CROKER Ji-ND REEF OFF IT DISCOVER ERROR IN LONGITUDE OF CAPE — REEFS AT THE MOUTH OF PORT ESSINGTON — ARRIVE AT THE LATTER. May 22. — We again bade adieu to our friends at Sydney, and sailed to explore the north-western part of the continent, which from the number of open ings still unexarained, possessed the interest that 312 REMARKABLE HEADLANDS, invariably attaches to whatever is unknown. We submitted, accordingly, with impatience to the delay caused by light north-westerly winds, and a southerly current of nearly a knot per hour, which prevented us from reaching the parallel of Port Macquarie before the 29th ; when about forty miles from it we experienced a gale,* frora N.E, and E,N.E,, that lasted till the evening of the next day, when we found ourselves about 140 miles S.E. of Port Stephen. During this gale the southerly current increased its velocity to two railes an hour, and its strength appeared to be about seventy miles from the land. This delay rendered it necessary to obtain a fresh chronometric departure, and as the winds prevented our returning to Port Jackson, we proceeded to Port Stephens, where we anchored, June 5th, We found the Admiralty chart of the coast in the neighbourhood very defective, some islands being completely omit ted, whilst others were rauch raisplaced. I have before spoken of the change in the features of this portion of the eastern coast. Here a nuraber of conical hills, from four to six hundred feet in height, suddenly presented themselves to our view, two of thera, very remarkable headlands, and preserving the aboriginal naraes of Yacaba and Tomare, constitute the entrance points of Port * This gale was from S.E. at Sydne)r, and the most severe they had experienced for many years ; it blew many vessels adrift and did other damage. PORT STEPHEN. 313 Stephen, The sea-face of Tomare is a high line of cliffs, from which projects a sand-spit, leaving only a narrow entrance. When in this I noticed that a round hill at the south end of a distant range, was over the opening between the first island and the northern shore of the harbour. Within the entrance are extensive sand banks, leaving between them and the south shore a narrow, and in some parts deep, channel, subject to a rapid stream of tide. Port Stephen may be con sidered a large estuary, about fifteen railes in length, contracted near the centre to a width of about a raile, which is further lessened by the presence of a woody islet, the same I have before alluded to. Nearly two miles within this narrow the Beagle anchored off the settlement of the Australian Agricultural Cora pany, a straggling village called Carrington, on the western shore of the harbour. On the side of a hill, half a raile to the westward, is the residence of the superintendent, a situation which, to enhance the pleasure of our visit, was held by Captain P,P. King, R.N, Tahlee, the name of this spot, surpassed in beauty all I have ever seen in Australia, It stands on the crest of a steep grassy slope, over which are scattered numerous small bushy lemon trees, the deep verdure of their foliage, interspersed with golden fruit, contrasting charmingly with the light green carpet from which they sprung. At the foot of this declivity, a screen of trees rising to a consi derable height, almost shuts out the view of the 314 TAHLEE. water, though breaks here and there allow small patches to be seen, athwart which a native canoe occasionally glides to and from the fishing grounds. These fairy boats, stealing along the water on a fine calm morning, greatly enhance the beauty of the scene. They belong to a party of natives who have taken up their quarters near Tahlee, and who, though by no means a fine race, have always been well disposed towards Europeans, Unfortunately they are much addicted to the use of ardent spirits, having acquired the habit from the whalers who frequent the place, A young woman and her hus band form part of the domestic establishment at Tahlee, We were as much delighted as surprised with the richness of the vegetation, when corapared with its dry parched appearance at Sydney — another of the striking contrasts characteristic of Australia. At Captain King's table I tasted the wonga-wonga pigeon ; it is the largest of any of the Australian kinds, and the flesh is very white and rich. It is a difficult bird to shoot, as it always keeps in the thickest foliage, and is strong and quick on the wing. Through the kindness of the same friend I was also enabled to enjoy a ride into the country, during the interval between the observations for rating the chronometers. I had to ascend the Karuah river, flowing into the north-west corner of Port Stephen, for twelve miles, to a place called Boorral,the furthest RIVER KARUAH. 315 point at which it is navigable, and where all goods are landed for the Corapany's stations up the country. Mr, Ebsworth the treasurer of the Com pany resides there in a charming cottage, almost covered with roses and honeysuckle , and coraraand ing two picturesque reaches of the Karuah. About two railes within the entrance, the river winds between high and steep banks, densely covered with creepers, acacias, and other vegetation of a tropical character, all quite matted together, and hanging in festoons, the ends of which are immersed in the water. Mr, White, who had charge of the Corapany's stock, raet rae at Boorral, with horses, and we were not long in reaching Stroud, about seven miles higher up on the eastern bank of the river. It is the head-quarters of the Corapany, and has quite the appearance of a truly English village, each cottage having its neat little garden. I was very much pleased with the whole arrangeraent of the place, as I strolled through it in the evening, and was delighted to find the inhabitants of a remote part of Australia, retaining such vivid recollection of tastes so characteristic of Englishraen, Several experiraents had been tried in clearing the land in the neighbourhood of Stroud, one of which was by what they call ringing the trees ; that is to say, they cut off a large circular band of bark, which, destroying the trees, renders thera easier to be felled. But the danger of this practice was, that in stormy Sl6 TRIP UP THE COUNTRY. weather they were blown down, thereby endanger ing the lives of persons or stock passing. In the thickets near Stroud, great numbers of the Lyre Bird are found. They receive their names from the shape of their tails, which one could hardly suppose so small a bird, having no other beauty, could possess. At Mr. White's hospitable cottage, I met two gen tlemen on their way to the Hunter river, and as fortunately the route I proposed taking, lay in that direction, we started together early the next raorn ing. Crossing the Karuah, our road for some dis tance lay over a rugged country, along a winding path between very steep hills. Six miles W.S,W, from Stroud, we passed through a range trending N.W. from two to three thousand feet high, the debris frora which enrich the flats of the Karuah on its eastern, and the Williaras river on its western side. Our guide amused me by pointing to some of the steep parts of the range which he had galloped down, while hunting wild cattle, the most useful and exciting sport known in Australia — useful, inasmuch as it prevents the wild cattle from coming down to the plains and en ticing away the tame herds ; and exciting, from the rough nature of the country, in which the sport is pursued. The wild cattle invariably keep on high ranges, and from their acuteness of sraell, are difficult to get at, and it is only to leeward that one can approach them. The bulls being the leaders WILD CATTLE. 317 of the herds are always singled out, and after a desperate and trying gallop over a rugged country, the huntsman finds himself going stride for stride alongside one of these Kings of the Forest, and wondering how an aniraal so ungainly in his gait, can get over the country at such a pace. Juraping over fallen trees, and dodging round others, he at last finds himself on a clear spot, when drawing a pistol frora his holster, and riding up so as almost to touch the animal's side, he lodges a well directed ball just behind the fore shoulder. This is the most critical moraent. Great command of your horse is required ; for the bull, if not mortally wounded, turns suddenly half mad with rage on his pursuer, and puts his nerves and judgment to a severe test. On these occasions almost incredible feats of horsemanship are performed ; and nearly precipitous slopes are descended. I have seen similar exploits nowhere but in Chile, where horses are ridden down the sides of frightful ravines on their haunches at half speed for bets ; but in that country the severity of the bit gives the rider a power over his steed unknown elsewhere. We crossed the Williams river, about fifteen miles S.W. frora Stroud, and after nearly another hour's ride carae to a place called Wallaroba, I was here dooraed to experience the only instance of incivility I ever found in Australia, It was late in the after noon of a cold blustering day, and having break fasted early, we were prorapted to test the hospi- 318 INCIVILITY OF A SETTLER, tality of a Mr. Chapraan, whose station we were passing. It was the only one we had seen during the day, and knowing the possibility of our being mistaken for bush-rangers,* we turned back our rough coats, and rode up to the house as smart as we could make ourselves. We raet the owner standing in the gateway of the garden fronting the house, which he nearly filled ; but although presenting a John Bull's exterior, there was a great deficiency of the national character within. After introducing ourselves we asked for a little railk, but were refused on the plea that there was none at the station. Our surly inforraant added, that we should find a comfortable inn eight miles farther on. First looking at the number of fine railch cows that were grazing near, and then at the speaker, we turned and left him in silent disgust. We passed the night at the inn to which we had been directed, and next morning I separated from my companions, our roads being different. There had been a hoar frost during the night, and the morning was delightfully bracing. About ten miles in a N.W. * Escaped convicts, who live by plundering the settlers, taking also their lives if any resistance is offered. I remember on one occasion, a party of gentlemen had their horses taken from them : one of them was of great value, and the owner thought he would try an experiment to recover him, by saying in a jocular manner, that he would tie a card with his address round the animal's neck, in order that when done with they might know where to return him. Strange to say his experiment succeeded, as the horse was sent back a short time afterwards. SAGACITY OF THE HORSE, 319 direction, brought rae to the end of my journey at Cam yr Allyn, the residence of Mr. Boydell. A few miles from this place, I passed the house of a Mr. Townsend, the road close to which was lite rally through a garden of roses, which in the fresh ness of the morning, diffused a delicious fragrance. Mr. Boydell's residence is on a rich spot of ground, on the banks of the Allyn river, which runs among the spurs of a range of hills, trending N.N.W., and distant about six Ailes to the eastward, where it attains an elevation of three or four thousand feet. The country in the neighbourhood is very hilly, and intersected by deep narrow valleys or ravines. I was very much amused by the sagacity displayed by the horses in crossing these. They make a point, as soon as they get near the bottom on one side, of dashing down at a most tremendous pace, in order to gain an impetus that shall carry thera up the opposite acclivity. The first tirae the aniraal I rode exhibited this instance of fore thought, I iraagined he was about to run awav with me ; for suddenly, without giving the least warning, he made a rush in a downward direction and was across the valley before I could look round. All the hills in this part of the country, shewed singular sloping sides to the S.W., whilst on the opposite, they were almost perpendicular ; old red sandstone is generally found on their sides, and granite on their summit. On the Allyn, I noticed the same kind of rich limestone, that I found on the west bank of the Karuah, two miles within the 320 CULTIVATION OF TOBACCO. entrance. These two spots are about thirty miles apart. The rocks in the valley of the Karuah belong to the transition series, and on the shore of Port Stephen, they consist of porphyry, basalt, and greenstone. An instance here came under my own observation of the beneficial results which soraetiraes arise from the punishment of transportation ; knowing the difficulty of getting good servants, I was curious to learn how Mr. Boydell^haJ procured his excellent butler, and on inquiry was surprised to learn that he had been sent out for robbing Madarae Vestris of her jewels, Mr. Boydell was cultivating tobacco to some con siderable extent, with the hope of being able to sup ply the colony ; others who speculated on a larger scale were ruined ; for it soon turned out that it was impossible to compete in cheapness with American tobacco. This was in consequence of the extensive establishment required on the estate, — the large drying sheds that had to be erected, the nuraber of coopers necessary, and the general high price of labour, Mr, Boydell was also cultivating the vine, of which he raade a light kind of wine, a very excel lent species of hock. The Messrs, M 'Arthurs have been at great expense in proraoting this branch of cul tivation, and are entitled to their share of credit. But to Mr.Bushbytbe colony owes the first introduc tion of the grape, which will hereafter prove of inesti mable benefit, from the great coraraerce to which it A CLEARING LEASE. 321 must give rise. I may here mention that the same gentleman has deserved highly of his fellow-colonists, by having been the means of bring good water frora some distance into Sydney, The importance of this to the town was very apparent even to us transient visitors, frora the crowd of water carts we constantly saw during the severe drought, patiently waiting their turn to fill from the pump in Hyde Park. I was fortunate enough to find two gentleraen to return with as corapanions, frora Cara yr Allyn, which we left early, under the guidance of a native, raounted on one of Mr, Boydell's horses. We were to have made a short cut by crossing the hilly country ; but after going sorae distance we found our guide at fault, and he very innocently acknow ledged hiraself to be, as he terraed it, " raurry stupid." It was a long tirae, he said, since he had travelled that way. Having however provided my self with a sketch of the country and a corapass, I was enabled to conduct the party out of this dilemma. On reaching the banks of William river, we inquired our way at a cottage, whose occupants, I found, held a small piece of land on what is called a clearing lease — that is to say, they were allowed to retain possession of it for so raany years, for the labour of clearing the land. Many an in dustrious poor man is raised to opulence by this means, a pair of oxen being all that is necessary to set them going. With them they drag away the fallen timber, and afterwards plough the land. It VOL. I. Y 322 CROSSING THE KARUAH, is astonishing to see what work oxen will do ; they drag drays over almost incredible steeps, not quar tering them as horses do, but going straight up, be the hills ever so steep. We learnt here that the township of Dungog, through which our road to Stroud lay, was close by. We should readily know it, we were informed, by the lock-up, a place of confinement for rasibe- havers, and generally the first building in Australian towns. The particular erection alluded to, seemed to be well known in the neighbourhood. As we crossed the William river I was rauch struck with the richness of the flats on its banks. In fording the Karuah, just before reaching Stroud, the effect was singular and startling. The thick foliage arching over the river, quite shut out the little light the stars afforded, and as we had to descend into it, down a very steep bank, it was like plunging into a dark bottoraless pit ; the noise of the streara over the stones alone told us we should find a footing below. Into this glooray cave our party one by one descended, the foremost calling out when he had reached the bottom, that the way was clear, and hastening across to prevent the horseman who followed from being carried by the impetus into contact with hira. Waiting my turn upon the verge of the bank, I contemplated with pleasure the heavy masses of the forest stretching like dark shadows behind me, and on the other side, the long winding line of verdure at, my feet, from beneath PORT STEPHENS. 323 Tvhich rose the splashing, rippling, gushing sound of the stream, whilst overhead, the vault of heaven was " thick inlaid with patterns of bright gold." But the plunge of my companion's horse in the water, and his voice calling out that all was right, soon drew me away, and in another raoraent I was fording in utter darkness the rapid though shallow streara of the Karuah. We passed the night at Stroud, and next raorning started for Port Stephens, There having been sorae delay in getting ray horse, I was obliged to push over the first seven railes in little more than a quarter of an hour, the postman having waited for me over his tirae. On the 15th, the requisite observations were obtained for rating the chronoraeters, which we found had altered their rates in a most singular manner ; so much so, that in spite of the short interval that had elapsed since our departure from Sydney, we found the resulting meridian distance between that place and Port Stephen, to be very defective. This fact illustrates the unaccountable changes that soraetiraes occur in the rates of chronoraeters, and the necessity of repeated mea sures of difference of longitude to arrive at the truth. On the morning of the l6th we again sailed for the North coast with a fine southerly wind. June 19- — At noon, when in 30 fathoms, with coarse sand bottom, we saw Indian Head, bearing Y 2 324 LARGE SHARK. N.N.W. 10 miles, it is a dark cliffy point ; but there is another more reraarkable in the shape of a quoin, three or four miles to the northward. At 8, p.m., we were in the same depth, Sandy Cape, so naraed by Cook for its being a low point streaked with patches of white sand, bearing W.S.W. eight miles. As it was now blowing very hard from E.S.E,, with con stant squalls and thick rainy weather, the ship was brought to the wind under snug sail, for the night. June 20. — At daylight we were in 18 fathoms, the outer elbow of Breaksea Spit, bearing S. E, by S, three miles. It was when anchored under this Spit that in H.M.S, Britomart, a monstrous shark was caught, about twenty feet long, in which were found the bones of some very large animal, possibly those of a bullock, that had been carried out to sea by some current. Steering N.N.W. we deepened the water in eight miles to 32 fathoms, and after round ing the northern extremity of Breaksea Spit, which appeared to be formed of a few detached breakers, steered W. by North for Bustard Bay. In 28 fathoras, with fine sand,we passed three miles south of Lady Elliott's Island, a small level spot about seventy feet high, fringed with a coral reef, particularly to the S.E., and forming the south eastern isle of Bunker's Group. It was first seen at the distance of seven miles frora the Beagle's poop, the height of the eye being fifteen feet, and at that number of miles east of it we had thirty fathoms. The weather was still very hazy, but the wind had subsided to a light breeze CORAL BANK. 325 from E.N.E, After passing Breaksea Spit, a westerly current was felt of nearly a knot an hour, which was also found to be the case in June, 1841. June 21, — The morning was bright and sunny, a happy change after several days of thick, rainy, and boisterous weather. The remarkable features in this part of the coast, consisting of Round Hill,* Peaked Hill, and Mount Larcora, stood out in bold relief against the pure blue of an Australian sky. In the evening steering N.W. by W. we passed over a coral bank three miles wide, the least water on which was nine fathoms. Frora this depth we pro cured a speciraen of living coral. This bank was again crossed in June, 1841, a mile and a half fur ther to the S, W,, when the depth was only seven fathoms. It lies eight miles S.S.W. from a low islet, four miles from which in a W.S.W. direction is a coral patch, nearly dry. This islet, in lat, 23° 34' S. to which we gave the narae of Mast Head, forms the southwestern of a group fronting Cape Capricorn, The latter has a hump on its extrerae, reserabling a haycock, and by our observations']" is in latitude * This hill was seen 35 miles from the Beagle's poop, and is a good guide for Bustard Bay, Peaked Hill we found to be 2000 feet high, and Mount Larcom 1 800, They form admirable points for fixing the position of the groups of isles fronting this part of the coast. t Hummock Island is ahke in error with Cape Capricorn, but all the distant points agree with the Beagle's observation. 326 FLAT ISLAND. 23° 30' 30" S., which is two miles south of its posi tion in the chart. As we were detained by light winds in the neighbourhood, I had more than one opportunity of detecting this error. By midnight we were about 18 miles N. by W, from Cape Capricorn, when we felt a swell frora the eastward, which assured rae there was an opening in the reefs on the north side of the group of islets fronting the Cape. June 22. — There was a light air from S.W. till near noon, then one from seaward which freshened and became in the afternoon steady at S.E., a quarter it afterwards prevailed from. We were at the time passing about three miles from Flat Island, in 27 fathoras, an increase in the soundings we . had but just got into. We were glad to find the ship's posi tion, fixed by points both far and near, agree with the observations, a fact I can only account for here, frora the circurastance, that Flinders laid down the coast about Port Bowen by observations on shore, whereas that in the neighbourhood of Cape Capri corn, was frora those raade with the sea-horizon which he found differ very raaterially. During the day we added to the chart the posi tion of two peaks, 1900 feet high, lying about 20 miles S.W. by W. from Cape Manifold, and forming the northern end of a high rocky range. A current was also noticed setting north a mile an hour. The entrance of Port Bowen bore W.S.W. 15 railes at midnight, when the depth was 30 fathoms. NORTHUMBERLAND ISLES. 327 June 22, — From thence we steered to pass between No. 1 and No. 2 of the Northumberland Isles, in order that we might lay down their outlines correctly, and also determine the positions of some small islets lying on the S.W, side of No, 1. The raost re raarkable land in sight in the raorning was Mount Westall, naraed by Flinders after the talented artist who accorapanied hira, and which forras the highest part of the eastern shore of Shoal Water Bay. The soundings during the night were very regular, only varying frora 30 to 33 fathoras with a soft rauddy bottom, mixed occasionally with which the lead brought up small stones. The sumrait of No. 1. of the Northumberland Isles forms a remarkable peak 720 feet high ; a sandy bay on the west side promised good anchorage, and on its south-east and northern sides were some high detached rocks. The heights of the other parts of the group vary from two to six hundred feet. The crests of the western isles are covered with pine trees, which give them a curious jagged appearance. In the afternoon we passed in 34 fathoras four miles from the eastern side of the Percy Isles, which enabled us to add their eastern extremity in the chart. The main land falling so much back soon after passing Port Bowen, we could form no idea of its character, but certainly what we had seen did not leave a favourable impression of its apparent fertility. Captains Flinders and King, having given a description of the Percy Isles, it will 328 SANDAL WOOD. not be necessary for me to say anything about them, further than that they are composed of a trap-like corapound with an aspect of serpentine, and that either on them or the Northuraberland Isles, sandal wood has been found of late, and taken by a Tas- raanian vessel to the China raarket. Just before dark, the soundings decreased to 29 fathoras, Pine Peak of Percy Group, bearing S.W. 10 railes. Our course was now shaped for Cape Gloucester, the extrerae of the Curaberland Isles ; and about this time we felt the flood tide setting S.W. by W, nearly a knot an hour, a sure indication of there being openings in the barriers in that direction. The great distancetat which this part of it lies from the islands will render its exaraination a difficult and hazardous undertaking. The night was anything but favourable for sailing araong islands, being very hazy, with passing rain squalls. At midnight we passed nearly two mil^s from the N. E. side of k. of the Cumberland Group, in 27 fathoms, in which depth we continued till getting abreast of Pentecost Island, the next evening, the 24th, when it increased to 35 fathoras, but still on the same kind of green sandy mud bottora. At 10, p.m, we passed about seven railes frora Cape Gloucester, which at that part was nearly 1600 feet high. Yet the night was so hazy, that it was only visible at intervals. Here we noticed raany ripplings which we afterwards found indicated a N,N.W, current of a knot and a half CAPE UPSTART. 329 an hour, caused no doubt by the proxiraity of a part of the barrier, the distance between it and Cape Gloucester being only 13 railes, I raay here observe that the baroraeter was very high with these fresh S.E. winds and hazy weather, and rather low during the light N.W, winds we experienced in the neighbourhood of Cape Capricorn. June 25 — At daylight the Beagle was a few railes east of Cape Upstart, in 17 fathoms, having passed two railes frora the north side of Holborn Island, in 28 fathoras. The above headland received its narae frora Captain Cook, and peculiarly deserves it, appearing in fact frora the lowness of the land behind, actually to start up out of the water. Chronoraeters being chiefly affected by changes of teraperature, it was necessary to ascertain the rates of those in the Beagle again before reaching Port Essington, for a correct measureraent of the differ ence of meridians between that place and Port Stephens. The bay on the west side of Cape Upstart had been recomraended by Capt. King for that purpose, as he had considered it likely to be the raouth of an opening. This conjecture the low land in the head of the bay, together with a singular break in the distant hills seeraed fully to justify. We accordingly entered the bay and anchored half a raile within the N.E, point. This took us till the afternoon to reach, in con sequence of our having a light land breeze until 330 EXPLORATION OF A RIVER. 3, p,M. when it becarae steady frora N.E., drawing round to south, after sunset, and veering to S.W. again in the morning. This alternation of land and sea breezes continued during our stay, for three or four successive days. In the evening we landed and ascended the N.E. extremity of the Cape, frora whence we saw at once that hopes of discovering any opening were delusive, the low shores of the Bay could be traced all round, except in the N,W, corner, where a point shut out our view. On sweeping the western shore with a spy glass, I discovered the raouth of a river about a raile to the north of a hillock marked in Captain King's chart. This river was made the object of an ex ploring party, and next day Captain Wickham and Lieut. Eden, went on that interesting service. It has two entrances, both very shallow, and is of little importance, being on a lee shore and fronted by a bar, which seems to break at all times of the tide. However, as there is such very safe anchorage near, the discovery may hereafter prove of some value. Captain Wickham found it fresh ten railes from the entrance, but at that point it is nearly lost in the sands, and so very shallow that the natives have a fishing weir across it. The land, which appears to be rauch cut up with creeks, is very flat on both sides, and is subject to inundations. This was evident from the signs of drift, to the height of six GEOLOGICAL QUERIES, 331 feet, on the trees that grew along the banks, them selves not more than a couple of yards above high water mark. The exploring party saw a few natives, but they were too shy to coraraunicate. One was discovered on a long flat, crawling on his hand and knees, to catch a glirapse of the strange intruders, and looking more like a great insect than a man. In the distance up the river a good many sraokes ap peared; but I doubt whether this maybe considered as denoting a densely populated country, as fires are kindled by the Australian natives, both as signals and for the purposes of hunting. Previous to ray departure from England, I had the pleasure of hearing a valuable paper by my friend Mr, Darwin, on the formation of coral islands,* read at the Geological Society ; my at tention being thus awakened to the subject, the interest of this important paper was to me greatly enhanced by a series of queries, kindly furnished by Mr. Darwin, and drawn up with a view to con firm or invalidate his views, his purpose being to elicit truth from a combination of well attested facts, and by inducing the research of others to further the objects of science. Among these queries was the following : — "Are there masses of coral or beds of shells sorae yards above high water mark, on the coast fronting the barrier reef ? " * See also the Hydrographer's Instructions, su2}ra, p. 21, 332 RAISED BEACHES, Captain King, in answer to the above states, that some of the islands within the reef have beaches of broken coral ; and, as an instance, he refers to Fitzroy island, I will, myself, here adduce what may be deemed an important fact ; and which, if allowed its due weight, will go far to weaken the Arguments brought forward in favour of the subsidence of the N.E. coast of Australia. I found a flat nearly a quarter of a mile broad, in a quiet sheltered cove, within the cape, thickly strewed with dead coral and shells, forming, in fact, a perfect bed of thera — a raised beach of twelve feet above high water raark. On the sandy beach fronting it, also a few feet above high water raark, was a concretion of sand and dead coral, forraing a raass about fifty yards long. Fronting this, for about the width of one hundred and fifty feet, was a wall of coral with two feet water on it ; and immediately outside, five fathoms, with a fine sandy bottom,' slightly sloping off. The annexed woodcut will better explain what we have here endeavoured to bring before the reader. This small coral-strewed flat where our observa tions were made, and the results of which are as follows; lat. 19° 42|' S. ; long. 15° 36^' E. of Port Essington, is surrounded by an amphitheatre of hills. Had it been on the seaward side of the Cape, I might have been readier to imagine that it could have been thrown up by the sea in its ordinary action, or when suddenly dis turbed by an earthquake wave ; but as the contrary * SECTION OF THE COAST, s r^ -(5 p. y n a P BtS5. 333 a to » c S p g p "" TO S <^ 2' r^. c-K r+ c,- <^ o-TO ^ ;t- CD !:?s • o W 2- cr 3 • pTO J O fO fC o w Bg^^ is the case, it seemed impossible to come to any other conclusion, g than that an upheaval 3 had taken place. The te! whole of Cape Upstart -fl is a granite mass, and 1-3 , 5 its crests are covered ¦21 with boulders, sorae of '^ which have rolled > down and form rather Q conspicuous objects on (^ the shores and points ™ of the bay. > Near the N.W. ex- S tremity of the Cape SI just at high water o raark, I noticed sorae Sig puraice stones, small „ and not having the Sd appearance of belong- H ing to a recent erup- g tion, which seems to y agree with the opinion expressed by the Rev. W. G. Clarke in the Tasmanian Jour nal. He considers, and I think justly, that its origin may be in the Solomon, New Caledonia, or some other of the volcanic islands to the east of o _ ^ Hi CO TO ^ ^ "9 S-' TO TO B^ t^ CO . TO ^ g 5 '¦^ Ifi- CO ti: CD ra L' o • O g to • • " ^ p 2p PfS' £. m TO S go? P- o i^ S S .=^-< o ««! ^ a. a< 334 PUMICE STONE. Australia, from whence it drifted, as it has been found on all parts of the coast, to the southem portion of which it has doubtless been carried by the current. Captain Wickham did not reraark any above the entrance of the river he explored, on the western side of the bay, which bears out the opinion I have above expressed. A curious fact, raentioned by Mr. Clarke is, that one piece, perfectly water-worn, was found upon a high raountain, full twenty-five miles inland frora the mouth of Clarence River, Was this carried thither by one of the natives, or does it indicate that pumice drifted to this part of the continent at a time when , if ever, it was on a level with the ocean ? I further reraarked in this place, raany of the land shells common to this and other parts of the coast. There was great difficulty in attaining the loftiest point of the Cape, which I found to be two thousand feet high. From thence our party coraraanded a view of the whole of the bay, and discovered that we were, strictly speaking, standing upon an island, a small creek winding round tbe southern foot of the high land, and connecting the bays on the eastern and western side of Cape Upstart. The break in the hills seen by Captain King, and supposed to indicate an opening, has been already alluded to. On reaching the surarait I found that this was raerely a valley, containing the head of the plain which stretched frora the shores of the bay. On its southern side rose Mount Abbott ; but one NATIVES SURPRISED, 335 of the raost reraarkable features on the coast is Mount Elliott, lying about forty-five miles W, and by N, from our position. It is a long level hill, with a peak at its northern extremity. All those in the neighbourhood, as far as I could judge with the spyglass, seeraed to be of the same formation with Cape Upstart. We found this a convenient stopping-place for vessels making the inner passage, wood and water being easily procured. The latter is found in a considerable reservoir fed by two strearas frora the high land of the Cape, lying a raile within the raouth of the bay. From appearances, I should say it would yield an abundant supply at any season of the year. There were a few natives loitering about on Cape Upstart when we arrived ; and I think we should have communicated with thera had it not been for the fright into which they^ were accidentally thrown. A boat's crew on landing surprised a sraall party, which instantly dispersed in various directions. A lad, however, instead of escaping with the rest, stowed hiraself away in a crack between two boul ders of granite. Every endeavour was raade to get him to come out of his hiding place ; biscuit was offered him, but he snapped savagely with his teeth at the hand that held it. Finding all atterapts fruitless he was left ; and no doubt, the account he gave his comrades of us, while under the influence of fright, was sufficiently terrible to take 336 PLANTS AND ANIMALS, them all away from the neighbourhood. These natives used nets sirailar to those I had seen on the N.W- coast, and in their make, resembling, in a re markable manner, the ones emplbyed by Europeans. In the valley, just within Cape Upstart, a few palras and a species of cotton were growing ; and in other places, the never-failing Eucalyptus, of sraall growth. Certain bulbs* were also found, apparently of the same species as those on the Percy Isles ; several of which we removed and presented to the Botanical Garden at Sydney, where we afterwards had the gratification of seeing them in a flourishing state. A few quails were shot of the same large kind as that found on all other parts ofthe continent, also one or two pheasant cuckoos, f They did not differ from those we killed on the N,W. coast, although nearly five degrees further south. A very large pigeon was also shot, resembling in colour the common blue rock, but without a bronze mark. We had not seen this species before ; it was a very wary bird, and was found in the rocks. But the greatest prize our sportsmen shot, was a speciraen of a small feraale kangaroo, of a new kind.J * Crinum angustifolium. They belong to the Narcissus, but are in themselves a new order of plant, + Centrepus phasianellus. Gould. I Deposited in the British Museum, and figured as Pelrogale Inanata, by Mr. Gould, who being misinformed, has described it as inhabiting the north coast of Australia. NEW KANGAROO, 337 It measured as follows, just after it was killed: — Length of body from tip of nose, 18 inches; length of tail frora stump to tip, 19 inches ; weight 8^ pounds. Its colour was a slate or light grey on the back, and dirty yellow or light brown on the belly ; extrerae half of tail black, with hair gra dually increasing in length, frora the centre to the tip and terminating in a tuft. On the back of the hind legs the hair is longer than on any other part of the body. The nails on the hind feet were short, covered with long hair, and did not project over the pulpy part of the foot, which is well cushioned and rough, giving a firm hold to projecting rocks. The head was small, and sharp towards the muzzle ; the ears were short and slightly rounded, the eyes black, and the fore arms very short. In this animal the pouch was very superficial. It inhabits the most rugged suraraits, taking refuge in the clefts of the rocks. June 30. — In the afternoon we left the anchor age we had been the first to occupy, and standing out of the bay, were rauch struck by the rugged outline Cape Upstart presents. The huge boulders scattered over the crest of the hills, give it the appearance of a vast mass of ruins, the clear atmosphere bringing it out in bold relief against the sky. We stood over N,W. for the opposite shore, and closing to within three railes ofthe land changed our course and ran along the singular low point forming the coast-line to the N.W, of Cape Upstart; VOL I, z 338 MAGNETICAL ISLAND. and by 9, p.m. rounded its northern extreme called Cape Bowling Green, at a distance of six miles, in 17 fathoms, steering then to pa,ss about four miles out side the Palm Isles. During the whole night our soundings only varied from 17 to 19 fathoras. The weather was glooray with passing showers of rain and a raoderate S.S.E. breeze; but all was bright again by daylight, (July Ist,) when Magnetical Island bore S, 9" W-, and the south and largest of the Palm Isles N. 81° W,, which, corresponding with the log, shewed there had been no current during the night, Magnetical Island was so named by Cook, because he fancied it affected the Endea vour's compass in passing it. There is good anchorage on the west side, where it is densely covered with trees, amidst which a few straggling pines reared their lofty and angular shaped heads, giving by their variety a picturesque appearance to the scene,* We passed the Palm Islands early in the forenoon. The largest we found to be 750 feet high, with a remarkable white rock off its S.E. extreme. Behind these isles we saw nuraerous blue streaks of smoke from the fires of the natives, indicating the state of population on the slope of that lofty range of hills, which may be called the Cordillera of Eastern Australia, and which at this point, tower to a great height, over looking the coast, t We were abreast about noon of * See the view annexed. f The proximity of this high land to the coast, may account for the gloomy weather of the previous night. vl i THE CORDILLERA. 339 its most remarkable feature. Mount Hinchinbroke, in lat. 18° 22' S., rising to the height, according to our observations, of 3500 feet. Mount Hinchinbroke, W.N.W. 35 miles. Although a number of fires being once seen is not always a sign in Australia of a densely populated part of the country, yet when they are constantly visible, as in this part of the conti nent, it is fair to infer, that the inhabitants are nuraerous, and the soil fertile, I might further remark, that Captain King found the natives well disposed ; and at Goold Island, in this neighbour hood, they even came on board his vessel uninvited, an evidence of friendship and confidence, rarely characterizing a race of beings so wary as are generally the inhabitants of Australia. It is not a little singular that the altitude of Mount Hinchinbroke should be identical with what Strzelecki considers the mean height of the Cordillera, which he traced continually on foot, from 31° to 44° S. lat, giving to the highest point, 6500 feet in lat, 36° 20' S., the narae of Mount Kosci usko, for reasons most admirably and feelingly expressed, and which we therefore, in justice to his patriotic sentiraents, give below in his own words.* * " The particular configuration of this eminence struck me so forcibly, by the similarity it bear.s to a tumulus elevated iu z 2 340 HALIFAX BAY. It will thus be seen that there is a northerly dip in the Cordillera of 3000 feet in 18 degrees of latitude. The great height of this range, and the extreme abruptness of its eastern face, where no waters are thrown off, renders it more than probable that on the western side there is land of great fertility. Whatever waters originate on its surarait and slopes, must flow towards the interior, and there give rise to rivers eraptying theraselves into the Gulf of Car pentaria, or by first forraing lagoons, feed strearas of sorae raagnitude even, during their overflow. It is the general opinion of every voyager who has sailed along the coast of Halifax Bay, that it is the most interesting portion of the north-east side of the continent; as, combining the several facts which we have above given, we have every reason to believe that the discovery of fertile and therefore valuable land, will one day reward the labours of the explorer. Nothing was seen by us of the San Antonio reef, laid down in the charts as fronting the Palm Isles ; but this was subsequently accounted for by Captain Stanley, who found that it was sixteen miles north of its supposed positio.n, being in lat, 18° 17' S,, and twenty-four miles distant from the nearest land. Hillock Point, This fact is the raore satisfactory and important Krakow, over the tomb of the patriot Kosciusko, that although in a foreign country, on foreign ground, but amongst a free people, who appreciate freedom and its votaries, I could not refrain from giving it the name of Mount Kosciusko." FITZROY ISLAND, 341 that, from its present position, as laid down in the chart, being supposed to be near the Palm Islands, it was apt to create an unpleasant state of anxiety in the raind of those navigating these waters during thick weather or at night. Frora noon we steered N,N,W., and at 6, p.m. Dunk Island bore S.W. eight railes distant; our soundings varying, during that period, from thirteen to fifteen fathoms. During the day we had several opportunities of satisfactorily testing the accuracy of Captain King's chart. While passing Barnard's Group, soon after dark, we found a current setting W.N.W.nearly a mile an hour, a rate at which it kept during the whole night, but in a N.N.W. direction. During the day we had a light breeze from S.S,E., which shifted to W,S,W, during the night, Nu raerous native fires were observed burning on the shore during the first watch, at the foot of the Bellendenker hills, remarkable mountains of consi derable altitude. July 2. — Soon after midnight we were abreast of Frankland Group, and at 7, a.m, passed three railes to the eastward of Fitzroy Island, where our soundings increased to seventeen fathoras, with a current running upwards of a mile an hour to the N,W., an increased velocity, which may be ac counted for by the proximity of the reefs to a pro jection of the coast forraing Cape Grafton. I raust not, however, pass an island which like Fitzroy, carried in its name a pleasing association to many 342 REEF NEAR LOW ISLES. on board the Beagle, without a word of notice, particularly as its features are in theraselves suffi ciently remarkable, having a singular peaked sum mit 550 feet high, near the north-east end. On the western side is a little cove where Captain King found snug anchorage. Passing midway between Green Island, which is about twenty feet high, encircled with a coral reef, and Cape Grafton, we steered N.W. ^ N. for a shoal on which Her Majesty's Ship Imogene grounded ; and at noon, were exactly on the spot, in lat. 16° 24 j S, by observations and bearings of the land, Low Isles being W.N.W, four miles. Here we found sixteen fathoms, not having had less than seventeen since the morning. There was no appearance of any such reef nearer than that laid down by Lieu tenant Roe, bearing east from the above-mentioned Low Isles and under which Her Majesty's Ship Tamar anchored. It must therefore have been on the N.W. part of this reef that the Imogene struck, and the south part must be the reef laid down in the chart as having been seen by her to the southward, which accounts for our not seeing it irOa^ the Beagle. We passed through several patches of discoloured water, caused by washings from reefs to windward, which are very deceptive. At sunset the anchor was dropped in thirteen fathoms, for the first time since leaving Port Ste phen. The south point of Weary Bay bore W.N.W. three miles, and Cape Tribulation S. by E. HOPE ISLANDS. 343 six miles. Near the middle of the forraer, I noticed a patch of discoloured water, which has since been found by a merchant vessel to be a shoal. The land over the latter place is very high, pre senting several singular peaks, one more prorainent than the rest, in the shape of a finger. That over Trinity Bay, which we were the greater part of the day crossing, is also of great altitude. In its south corner we noticed the river-like opening spoken of by Captain King, lying in the rear of sorae reraarkable peaks. We had been inforraed by him, that the greater part of the coast between Weary Bay and Endeavour River, including the Hope Islands, had been altered from his original survey, a tracing of which he had furnished us with previous to leaving Sydney. The few bear ings we obtained while at anchor, induced us to consider it correct, a fact we further proved during the early part of the next day's run, as the course steered from our anchorage N. by W. ^ W., carried us a little more than a raile west of the Hope Islands. Had their assigned position in the chart been correct, our course would have led us right over the western isle. On detecting this error, we found it necessary to re-survey this part of the coast, and it affords me much pleasure, after so doing, to be able to bear testiraony to the extreme correctness of Captain King's original chart above alluded to. Soon after passing the Hope Islands, we saw the reef where Cook's 344 CAPE BEDFORD. vessel had so rairaculous an escape, after grind ing on the rocks for 23 hours, as graphically described in his voyages. It is called Endeavour Reef, from this circumstance. Continuing on the sarae course, we passed three miles frora Cape Bedford, at 4, p.m. This is one of the raost re markable features on the coast, being a bluff de tached piece of table land, surmounted by a singular low line of cliffs, reminding rae forcibly of the lava capped hills on the river Santa Cruz, in eastern Patagonia, As far as I could judge, by the aid of a good glass, it seemed to be composed of a mix ture of red sand and ironstone, of a very deep red hue, bearing a great similarity to the country on the N.W. coast, in lat. ]5i° S, Leaving Cape Bedford, we went in search of a shoal laid down by H.M.S. Victor, as lying two miles to the W,S,W. of Three Isles, Both Captain King and Lieutenant Roe had expressed a doubt of its existence in the position marked, a doubt which our researches fully justified ; and therefore, as it at present stands, it should be expunged from the chart. From thence we steered north for Lizard Island, the remarkable peak on which soon rose in sight ; this course took us within three miles of Cape Flattery, where a couple of peaks, with a slope between them, render it a conspicuous head land * About seven miles west frora thence, there is a strange alteration in the appearance of the country, LIZARD ISLAND. 345 changing from raoderately high conical shaped hills, to lofty table ranges about 500, or 600 feet in height, trending about S.W. and by W. Having still a little raoonlight, we were enabled to keep under weigh part of the night, and during the first watch came to in 13 fathoms, in a bay on the west side of Lizard Island, the extremes bearing frora S, f E. to E. N, E. During the day we ex perienced a northerly current, varying from three quarters to half an knot an hour. July 3- — We remained at this anchorage, until the following morning, for the purpose of deterraining the position of the island, and of visiting the peak, which we found to be nearly twelve hundred feet high. I ascended by a slope rising frora the shore of the sraall bay where our observations were taken, and which raay be easily distinguished, from being the second from the north point of the island. Their result was to place it in lat. 14° 40|' S. long. 13° 17|' East of Port Essington, Variation by the mean of five or six needles was 71° E, being half a degree raore than it was at Cape Up start. Other raagnetic observations were also made, consisting of those for the dip and in tensity. In a valley to the left of the slope by which we ascended the peak, were noticed several very re markable, low and spreading trees, with a dark green foliage, and leaves large, ovate, and obtuse. The branches, from which, when broken, a milky 346 CAPTAIN COOK. juice exuded, were thick and glossy, of an ash colour ; at their extremity they were thin, with long pendulous stems, supporting a bell shaped flower, of a rich crirason hue ; these hung in great profusion, and contrasting with the surrounding dark green verdure, presented a very beautiful and striking appearance. The diameter of the trunk of the largest tree was 20 inches, and the height 25 feet. Lieut, Emery painted a most faithful re presentation of one of them, by raeans of which we found on our arrival at Port Essington, that neither the professional nor amateur botanists, had any knowledge of it. To them and to ourselves it was alike perfectly new. On the preceding evening I had refreshed ray memory by reading Cook's account of his visit to the same spot, and was thus able rainutely to follow in the footsteps of the iramortal navigator. There is an inexpressible charm in thus treading in the track of the mighty dead, and my feelings on attaining the summit of the peak, where the foot of the white man, had perhaps but once before rested, will easily be understood. Below to the eastward stretched a vast expanse of water, broken at the distance of about eight miles, by a long narrow line of detached reefs, on which there ran a white crest of foaraing breakers, marking the outer edge of the Great Barrier, a name which few seamen could hear with indifference when in its vicinity. If I felt emotions of delight, on first PROVIDENCE CHANNEL. 347 perceiving the extent of a danger so justly dreaded, how rauch stronger must have been the feelings of Captain Cook, when from the same spot years be fore, he saw by a gap in the line of broken water, there was a chance of his once raore gaining the open sea, after being confined to the eastern shores of the Australian continent, for a distance of 750 railes. Though the dangers of this inner channel had proved so nearly fatal to his ship, the truth of the horaely adage, which de scribes all as happening for the best, was here fully borne out, as the very fact of his position enabled Captain Cook to make considerable dis coveries along the coast, — just as by the mishap on Endeavour Reef, the presence of a river was raade apparent, and sorae slight knowledge of the abo rigines obtained, as well as nuraerous facts illus trative of the natural and vegetable productions of the locality. Little did he think at that tirae, however, when standing on the surarait of the peak, that he was about as it were to thread the eye of a needle, by passing through another break, in a raanner which can only be designated as providential. This gap in the great reef is now known as Provi dence Channel, a narae which raust ever reraind us of Him, who in raoraents when our lives hang as by a thread, is ever watchful, and spares us in the exercise of his inscrutable will. Carried back to tiraes past, we stood upon the 348 BARRIER REEF, summit of the height, dwelling in thought upon the adventurous career of the great navigator, when suddenly, as if by magic, the whole scene below and around was obscured, and we found ourselves wrapped in a dense cloud of vapour, which came sweeping across the island, drenching us to the skin, with a rapidity which spoke volumes for the penetrating character of an Aus tralian fog. Cold and shivering we hailed the temporary re-appearance of the sun with delight, and our clothes were dried almost as speedily as they had been wetted. Our satisfaction was however but of short duration, as the same agreeable opera tion, of alternate drenching and drying, occurred several times during our stay on the Peak. The opening through which Captain Cook passed out to sea, bore about N. by E. 9 railes, the outer line ofthe Barrier Reef, curving from thence to the N.W., and following the trend of the land. When this sin gular wall of coral, the most extensive perhaps in the world, is surveyed, it will I think be found to follow the direction of the coast it fronts with such exactness, as to leave little doubt that the vast base on which rests the work of the reef-building Polypifers, was, contrary to the opinion which I am aware prevails, upheaved at the sarae time with the neighbouring coast of the Australian continent, which it follows for a space of upwards of a hundred railes. From the elevation on which I stood, I had an COR.\L REEFS. 349 excellent view of sorae reefs within the Barrier ; whether they encircled an islet, or were wholly be neath the water, their forra was circular, although from the ship, and indeed any where, viewed from a less height, they appeared oval-shaped. This de tection of my own previously erroneous irapressions, seeraed to account for the recurrence in charts of elongated shaped reefs, others having doubtless fallen into the sarae error. It is very reraarkable that on the S. E. or windward side of these coral reefs, the circle is of a compact and perfect form, as if to resist the action of the waves, while on the opposite side they were jagged and broken.* The S. W. side of the peak rises perpendicu larly from a grassy flat, which stretches across that part of the island, separating two bays, the beaches of which with the rest on the island are composed of granulated quartz, and coarse shingle. A stream of water, rising in the peak, runs through the green, while a few low gura trees grow in small detached cluraps ; a ship may therefore procure both water and fuel ; finding this to be the case, and as it was a convenient stopping place, we made a plan of the island, connecting it with those in the iraraediate neighbourhood. It is the more advantageous as an anchorage, in that it can be reached during the night, whereas this could not be done in the inner channel near Turtle Islands, * In the Pacific the islets are generally on the weatherside of the lagoon reefs. 350 HOWICK GROUP. it lying so much to the westward, and being more intricate. Indeed it is not prudent to approach these isles even in the afternoon, from the number of reefs, and the difficulty in seeing them with the sun a-head, Mr. Bynoe was not fortunate enough to add to his collection of birds ; those he observed being only doves and parrots, besides a fly catcher coramon to parts of the coast, and often before met with by us. A couple of vampires of the larger and darker species were also seen, and nuraerous land shells (Helix) sirailar to those on Cape Upstart; found near the roots of trees, buried in the decayed vegetation. Two old cocoa nuts and large quantities of pumice stone were picked up on the south-east side of the island. The prevailing character of the rocks was granitic, out of which some beautiful specimens of hornblende were procured. The entire island was fringed with a narrow strip of coral, but I noticed none of it above high water mark. July 4. — We took our departure at an early hour, and after running round to sketch the north-east side of the island, stood to the westward for Howick Group. The weather being thick we did not dis cover the somewhat remarkable peak on No, 1, until we were close to it. Our progress was accelerated by a current running half a knot an hour, and finding the passage between No, 1 and 2 of Howick Group, rauch irapeded by rocks, we hauled up between 2 and 3 isles, and on CAPE MELVILLE. 351 keeping away again W, N. W. for Point Barrow, found ourselves close to a reef, almost dry, and extending nearly a mile further off the N. E, side of Coles Island, than is laid down in the chart; thus contracting the channel between it and No, 4 island, to a space of not more than two miles. When the course was shaped for Point Barrow, Noble Island, a very remarkable pyra midal shaped rocky height, was a point on the port bow. Its singular appearance raakes it con spicuous araid the recollections of this part of the coast. We now once raore approached to within a dis tance of seven railes of the raain land, which presented to our view a low sandy shore, with a few remarkable huraraocks rising over it, and soraewhat high, broken, rocky land iraraediately behind. Passing Point Barrow we anchored near the north end of a large reef. Cape Melville bearing W- N. W, ten miles. Here we felt a swell rolling in from seaward, and during the day there had been a current in our favour, of about a raile an hour. From the haze on the horizon, noticed from this an chorage, as well as on passing Cape Melville, I believe the outer edge of the Barrier Reef to be not raore than four or five leagues distant from the land. Our attention had been previously directed by Captain King and others, to the singular appear ance of the rocks on Cape Melville ; indeed no one can pass this remarkable projection without 352 CAPE FLINDERS, being struck by the strange manner in which piles of reddish coloured stones are scattered about in the utmost confusion, and in every possible direction over this high ridge, I much regretted that on passing next raorning there was no opportunity of landing to see the nature of this confused raass ; judging, however, frora the result of ray examina tion of a sirailar appearance presented by Depuch Island on the north-west coast, I believe this point to be of volcanic origin. Between the rocks off Cape Melville, and a reef encircling two small islets, the channel is not raore than a mile in width : indeed, I con sider passing this point and Cape Flinders the most intricate part of the inner route. After rounding the rocks off the former we steered for the latter Cape, keeping it a little on the port bow ; this course led us on reef a., lying raidway between the Cape and a low island to the N, E. When on the southern extreraity Cape Flinders bore S. 70° W. 3 railes, and Clack Island N, 39° W, The latter is a reraarkable cliffy lurap, interesting from the circumstance of Mr, Cunningham having found native drawings in its caves. After clearing this danger, and passing the Cape, we steered across Princess Charlotte Bay, keeping wide to the southward of the reefs fronting it, in order that we might the more easily dis tinguish them ; the sun at ^ that tirae of the day being in the direction of the ship's head. The SECTION OF CORAL REEF, 353 soundings gradually decreased with a soft rauddy bottora, as we approached the eastern shores of the bay ; which is so large and free frora shoals, that a vessel not wishing to anchor might pass the night standing off and on with perfect safety. There is over the head of this bay a remarkable level topped hill, called by Captain Cook, Janes's table land ; rendered the raore conspicuous from the low nature of the surrounding country. In the evening we anchored a mile frora the S, W. side of a small detached reef, marked F. in the chart, and distant 22 railes from Cape Flinders ; the solitary position of this reef, it being four miles from the inner edge of the Great Barrier, and nine from the nearest part of the main, gave us a good oppor- ' tunity of making a section, with a view of illustrating the progressive structure of coral edifices, in the still waters within the barrier reef; we accord ingly visited the spot in the evening, and being an interesting object, we here give a drawing of the section. Section of a detached coral reef in Lat, 14o 5., within the Barrier Reef of Australia. The point C (on the etJge of tlie reef C) stands two feet above water line G, and the point D 1 J feet above it. The depth of water in lugoon exag gerated in section. Figures on line denote depth of water in feet beneath. — G. level of sea in a mean state. It proved a good specimen of the circular or lagoon reef. One young mangrove was growing on the elevated part marked C in the wood- cut. The VOL. I. 2 a 354 CLAREMONT ISLES. rim which rose on all sides was quite black, but white when broken ; the highest part being about three feet above the water. The nature of the bottom within the reef was a white sand raixed with sraall pieces of dead coral : without, we found on either side soft green sandy raud with shells, the inclination of the bottom on which the reef rests, being only one degree, we may fairly infer it to be superimposed on a most extensive basis. July 7. — To-day being Sunday we did not pro ceed further then No. 4 of the Clareraont Isles, a low rocky group encircled by coral reefs, to give the ship's corapany a run on shore during the afternoon ; in order to reraind thera of its being a day of rest appointed by the Lord. When we anchored, we found, contrary to the usual north-westerly tendency of the current, a tide setting S. S, W, three quarters of a knot an hour, this lasted for a space of four hours, when it changed, and ran N, N, W. from half to three quarters of a knot during the remainder of our stay. The wind was moderate frora E. S. E. July 8. — We weighed at 6, a. m , and about the sarae hour in the evening again anchored under Restoration Island. The ship's track during the day followed the trend of the land, keeping about seven railes frora it, except when opposite Cape Direction, Where we were about half that dis tance from the shore. We found little to add to Captain King's chart, with the exception of some CORDILLERA. 355 reefs lying about ten miles east frora the above men tioned head-land. The coast here again attained a moderate height, and a round hill ten miles south of Cape Direction, reached the height of 1250 feet ; its lat. being 13° S. is nearly five degrees and a half north of where the Cordillera is 3500 feet high, and 23^ degrees of where it attains its greatest elevation, that of 6500 feet ; a fact which will at once demonstrate the northerly tendency in the dip of the chain of hills. This degree is further illustrated by the height of Pudding-pan Hill in 1 1° 19' S, being only 384 feet. From the data given, despite the limited nuraber of our facts, it will be seen that the dip becomes gradually raore rapid as you advance to the northward, S. E. from Cape Sidraouth the passage was rauch contracted by a covered rock in the very centre of the channel; this raay be avoided by keeping close to the W, side of island No, 6, Restoration is a lofty rocky lump, terminating in a peak 360 feet high. A sraaller islet of the sarae cha racter lies about half a raile off its S.E. side ; there is also a reraarkable peak on the shore, four miles to the southward. This part of the coast is thus rendered very conspicuous frora seaward, and may be discerned outside the Barrier reefs. Restoration Island is a point of some interest from having been first visited in 1789 by Captain Bligh, during his extraordinary and unparalleled voyage in the Bounty launch, from the Society Islands. The dangers and 2 A 2 356 RESTORATION ISLAND. perils undergone by this undaunted voyager, and our consciousness of the joy which the sight of land raust have brought to his heart, gave rauch zest to our feelings with regard to the locality. There is always an interest in connection with scenes associated with a name such as that of Bligh, but to us the interest was double ; it was the sympathy of searaen with a brother sailor's raisfortunes. As Captain King had not exarained this interesting spot, we thought his chart would be greatly im proved by our passing a day in the place ; this was the more necessaiy as we found it to be a snug anchorage and convenient place for ships passing. The name of Restoration Island was given it by Bligh, from the circumstance of his having made it upon the anniversary of the recall of Charles II. to the throne of England, July 9. — The surveying operations necessary to perfect the chart of this neighbourhood, afforded ample eraployraent during the day. The weather being dull, with passing rain, and squalls, the view I had anticipated enjoying frora the surarait of the island was quite destroyed. Like Cape Up start and Lizard Island it is a granite raass. Dead coral was found on the western side, ten feet above high water mark, a fact which in some measure sup ports what I have stated in connection with the raised beach on Cape Upstart, A low sandy tongue of land forras the S, W, extrerae, leaving a narrow passage between it and the raain. This flat is covered with brushwood, gum-trees, and a few palras. The ob- SIR EVERARD HOMe's ISLANDS, 357 servations were raade on this point, and the results were as follow : Lat, 12° 37' 30" S., Long. 1 1° 16|' E. of Port Essington, July 10. — The raorning broke with the same dull, glooray weather, the wind fresh at S. E, and continued thus during the day, slightly diversified by a few passing rain squalls. Soon after daylight we were again on our passage, the cloudy weather enabling us to make out the Eastern reefs, which at high water are covered, and consequently difficult to be seen in that direction in the morning. They front Quoin and Forbes' Islands, remarkable rocky lumps, raore so, however, from the extreme lowness of those in their vicinity, than frora their own raag nitude. The latter was found to be 340 feet high. A N, W, by N. course frora Restoration brought us to Piper Islands, The soundings were frora 11 to 13 fathoras, with a greater proportion of sand in the quality of the bottom than had been before noticed. Passing between them and reefs H. and I. also between Young Island (an elevated reef, with one small mangrove growing on the highest part) and reef M., we hauled up N. E, by N, round the north end of the latter, to weather Sir Everard Home's Islands, a low group connected by shoal water and extending about four railes from Cape Grenville, We passed raidway between thera and Haggerston's Islands, a square lurap 240 feet high. Sir Charles Hardy's and the Cockburn Isles are also con spicuous objects in this neighbourhood, particularly the former, which is visible from outside the 358 COCKBURN ISLANDS. Barrier, and thus forms a leading mark for ships making their way through these reefs. In the evening the anchor was dropped about a mile frora the north side of the Bird Isles in ten fathoms, a sudden degree from fifteen, just before standing in W, S. W. to the anchorage. Five miles S. E. by E. from these isles, we passed close to the position of a patch of shoal water, according to the chart : its presence, however, was not detected, the depth at the tirae being nineteen fathoms. The only additions made to the chart during the day were a few soundings, besides increasing the number and altering the position of Cockburn Islands, with the reefs fronting them. The number of these isles is thus increased frora two to four ; they are square rocky lumps, the largest being three hun dred feet high. The current during the day set steadily N. W, almost a mile an hour. On anchor ing we found it setting W. N. W, at the sarae rate. At midnight it changed its direction to E. S, E. from a quarter to half knot an hour. The tirae of high water being about 6 a.m., it is evident the flood streara carae here from S, or S, E. The islands passed during the day, were of a small lagoon cha racter and the reefs oval-shaped, with an ele vated patch of dead coral at their north extrerae, which had the appearance, at a distance, of sand. The raain land had rauch changed in outline, having subsided into a wearisorae series of undu lating hills, varying from five to seven hundred feet in height. Tbe coast was, therefore, utterly BOYDAN ISLAND. 359 void of any feature of interest, after passing Fair Cape. July 11, — At daylight we were again under way, and steered N, by E, for the purpose of ascer taining if there were any reefs to the eastward of u. and v. When No, 1. of a group next south of Cairn cross, bore N. 43° W. four and a half miles, the course was changed to W, N, W. to pass between the reef fronting its south side and reef w. where we had a depth of 20 fathoms ; — both of these we found it necessary to enlarge on the chart. At the time of altering the course, the ship was W. N, W. two railes frora the position of an island according to chart ; but as we did not see it, and as Captain King has not laid it down upon his own authority, we may safely conclude that it either does not exist, or that it is much out of position. Rounding the reef off its south extremity, we anchored in 18 fathoms, one raile S, 65° W. frora the centre of the island before raentioned — No, 1. of the group S, of Cairncross — shortly before noon. This Captain King supposes to be Boydan, that on which the crew of the Charles Eaton were mas sacred. It was therefore determined that the re mainder of the day should be spent in examining the place, with a view to ascertain the correctness of this supposition. The melancholy interest ofthe search was to me greatly enhanced, frora having seen at Sydney young D'Oyly, one of the survivors of this ill-fated party, and son of an Indian officer 360 EXAMINATION OF BOYDAN ISLAND, returning from furlough. Being an infant, his helplessness excited the sympathies of an Indian woraan, who snatched him from the arms of his raurdered raother, and sheltered hira within her own. Nor did her kindness stop here, the never-failing raaternal solicitude of the sex, inducing her to pro tect and console the child. We had just read Cap tain P. P. King's interesting paraphlet in relation to this sad event, detailing with rainuteness all the circurastances of the tragedy, and with our rainds so recently irabued with the horrors it inspired, naturally advanced to the search with zeal and activity ; anxious, if possible, to place the locality of its occurrence beyond a doubt. 'The isle was easily traversed, being of sraall extent, not raore, indeed, than a raile in circumference. We crossed it ac cordingly in every direction, and discovered the remains of native fires, near which great quantities of turtle bones, and sorae cocoa-nut shells were scattered about. It was remarkable that where- ever boughs were cut, an axe or some other sharp instrument had been used. A topraast with the lower cap attached to it, was found on the S. E. side of the island, which we afterwards discovered to be a portion of the brig William, wrecked on the outer barrier three months before. Captain King drew his conclusions relative to this island from the circumstance of young Ire land's stating, that on their way to it in the canoe, after leaving the raft, they first passed three islands CORRECT CHART, 361 on the right northward, and one on the left southward. From the bearings, however, and from our run on the following raorning we found it necessary to cor rect the chart, thus decreasing the number of islands. We found that marked 5, to have no existence, and 6, far too much to the westward, while 8 and 1 0 were placed to the eastward of their true position. These errors occasionally occur where they are numerous, much alike, and are passed quickly. The change in the number and position of the islands is in some measure hostile to the views of Captain King, and I am further in clined, frora these corrections, to draw the conclu sion that No, 4 ofthe group is Bbyd^n island, a name given by the Murray islanders, to the spot rendered notorious by the cold-blooded massacre we have already alluded to, and which will be described more in detail in Captain Stanley's highly interest ing narrative, further on in the present work. On exaraining thereof fronting the island, which is a raore perfect specimen of a lagoon than any we had yet seen, we found that the outer edge con sisted of a wall higher than any of the parts within, rising at low water, to an elevation of ten feet, while inside, pools or holes existed, three or four feet deep, containing live coral, sponges, sea eggs, and trepang. Scattered about on different parts of the reef were many chama gigas, not, however, so large as those I had forraerly seen at Keeling or Cocos Islands, in the Indian Ocean, weighing 220 pounds. 362 TIDAL OBSERVATIONS. Singular to say, at 3, p.m., I observed the latitude by a meridian altitude of Venus, although a bright sunny day. The result agreed with Captain King's chart, placing the centre of the island in lat. 1 1° 28' S. We experienced more tide here than at any anchorage we had yet occupied during the passage. From 1 to 5, p.m., it set half an knot an hour to the southward, then changed to N. W. by N,, increas ing its rate to one knot by 10 o'clock, and decreas- ing it to a quarter of a knot by 2, a.m., when it again set to the S. S, W, The stream thus appears to set nine hours N. W. by N. and three S. S. W. The short duration of the latter, which is the ebb, is caused by the northerly direction of the prevailing current. This also was the only spot where our fishermen had any success ; in a few hours several dozen of a species of small red bream being caught. Three or four ships passing together would find a secure berth about two miles N, N. E. of where the Beagle anchored, where the depth is moderate, with good holding ground. It has great advantage in this particular over Cairncross, where but one vessel could lie snug, and still greater over Turtle Island, more exposed even than the former with a strong tide, and where vessels ride very uneasily. Moreover the supposed Boydan, or No. 1 isle, can be left a full hour before daylight, there being nothing in the way to impede a ship's progress for some railes. Those who are not desirous of passing the reefs off Wednesday and Hararaond Islands, late CAIRNCROSS ISLAND. 363 in the day, with the sun in an unfavourable position, can find a convenient stopping place in Blackwood Bay under the largest York isle, or under the Cape of that name, July 12, — We left at an early hour, steering N. N. W. ^ W, for Cairncross Island, which we passed at a distance of half a mile from the eastern side in 16 fathoras. Its height is seventy -five feet to the tops of the trees, which, according to Mr. Bynoe, who subsequently visited it in the raonth of Septeraber, are dwarf guras. The tea-tree of the colonists is also found here, in addition to sorae small bushes. This island is the resort of a large bright cream-coloured pigeon (Carpophaga leu- comela) the ends ofthe wings being tipped with black, or very dark blue. Mr. Bynoe found the island quite alive with them ; flocks of about twenty or thirty flying continually to and frora the main. They not only resort but breed there, as he found several old nests. As this bird was not raet with in the Beagle on the western coast, we raay fairly conclude it only in habits the eastern and northern ; the furthest south it was seen by the officers of H.M.S. Britoraart was lat. 20°. In addition to these, Mr. Bynoe saw the holes of sorae sraall burrowing aniraals, which are doubtless rats. On a sandy spit, close to the bushes or scrub, he saw a native encampment of a semicircular form, enclosing an area of about ten yards. The occupants had but recently left it, as a fire was found burning, aud the impression of their 364 PUDDING PAN HILL, feet still fresh in the sand. It appears that at this season of the year, being the favourable raon- soon for ships passing through the Barrier reefs on their voyage to India, the islands to the southward are rauch frequented by the natives of Murray and others of the northern isles, waiting, like wreckers of old, the untoward loss of sorae ill-fated ship, when their canoes appear as if by raagic, hastening to the doomed vessel ; just as in the Pampas of South America, no sooner has the sportsman brought down a deer than the air is filled with myriads of vultures winging their way towards the carcase, though a few minutes before not a feather was stirring. The long-sightedness of these Indians re sembles that of the carrion bird itself,* while their rapacity and recklessness of blood is fully equal to that of the lower aniraal. We left our readers at Cairncross Island, and now return to our narrative by describing the neigh bouring coast. The most remarkable feature on this part of the raain land, generally speaking a dull monotonous level, is a hill bearing over the ex tremity of the reef fronting the south side of Cairn cross, S. 45° W., to which Captain Bligh has given * As some of our readers may imagine that vultures and birds of prey are attracted to the carcases of animals by smell, I may state that an experiment was tried with a condor in South America ; being hoodwinked, he passed unnoticed a large piece of beef, but as soon as the bandage was removed, he rushed eagerly towards and devoured it. ESCAPE RIVER, 365 the quaint name of Pudding Pan Hill. It received this appellation from a resemblance to an inverted pudding dish, commonly used by sailors, and is 354 feet high. The coast about ten railes to the north ward projects a raile and a half further eastward than is marked in the chart. This error did not however appear to be so great south of Escape River, where the character of the coast is low and cliffy, separated by small sandy bays ; instead of a continued line of cliffs as at present represented. At noon we were in the parallel of the south point of Escape River, in lat. 10° 58' S., observa tions and bearings both agreeing. This river receives its narae in record of one of those narrow escapes to which surveying vessels are subject. Captain King having been nearly wrecked in the Mermaid. Attempting to enter the river he found it not to be navigable, a reef extending across its raouth, on which his vessel struck very heavily. Avoiding Captain King's track, we passed to the eastward of reef x, being thus afforded a better opportunity of determining its position than he had. This we did by transit bearings with different points, which placed it nearly two miles S. by E. of the spot assigned it on the charts.* * On mentioning this afterwards to Captain P. P. King, he told me his survey of that part of the coast had never given him satisfaction ; for there the monsoon blows fresh, and his small vessel was hurried past without his being able to land in search of better data for the chart. The reader 366 CORRECT POSITION OF REEFS. This error we found to extend also to reefs y and z. X is one of the oval-shaped reefs, with the singular white patch of dead coral on its northern extreraity which I have before spoken of. Z is simi larly marked, and dries at last quarter ebb, while the S, E. part of y is never covered, a few man groves growing on it. When abreast of x, we saw frora deck the curious flat-topped hill on the largest York island. Mount Adolphus, and when over the centre of reef z, it bore N, 23|^° W. We now steered to the westward between reefs, x and y, and afterwards N. N. W. for Mount Adolphus. Be tween the Brothers and Albany Islands the depth was 10 fathoras ; these are both black rocky lumps, particularly the latter, the outer being a mere must not, from these corrections, (few, when we consider the extent of the survey,) be led to imagine that our object is to pick out errors in the surveys of others ; but from being in a larger and better appointed vessel, our opportunities of exami nation were necessarUy greater than those afforded to Captain King, who was always most anxious to detect errors in his own charts. Without dwelling on the fact that the result of our examination afibrded us the satisfaction of restoring parts of the chart, before erroneously corrected, to his original con struction, we would venture to hope that, while desirous as much as possible to perfect our knowledge of the coast, we were in no manner actuated by that spirit of fault-finding, so pithily de scribed by Liebeg, when he says that it is " starthng to reflect that all the time and energy of a multitude of persons of genius, talent, and knowledge is expended in endeavours to demonstrate each others' errors," BLACKWOOD BAY. 367 pointed rock. Altogether they assume a sterile and dreary appearance, in excelleht keeping with the inhospitable character of the adjoining coast. Several shoals and much shoal water were noticed in Newcastle Bay. At 4, p. m., we anchored in Blackwood Bay, in a depth of 10 fathoras. Point Dicky bearing South half a raile, and Mount Adol phus N.E. In the evening a plan was made of this very convenient stopping place for ships, and all the angles taken to the N.W. extremity of the group, place them a raile and a half to the eastward of their position in the chart. Observations were also obtained near Point Dicky, which we found to be in lat. 10° 38f' S, and long. 10° 28' E, of Port Es sington. The N, W, extreraity of the singular flat- topped hill being 1' 05" North, and 45" East of this spot. The first question interesting to ships is the supply of wood and water ; the latter we had no tirae to look for, but of the former there was an abundance, though from the shore being fronted by extensive coral flats, it is difficult to be attained. 'The appearance of the island is similar to that of the Albany cluster, it having the same rocky, bleak, and almost wild look ; from which I conclude they are of the sarae forraation, which in general terms we may call porphyritic. Parts of the island appeared to be intersected by a growth of man groves. There appeared great irregularity in the tides at this anchorage, as if there were a raeeting of 368 TORRES STRAIT. various strearas. At 5, p. m. it was setting S. W. about an hour, and continued to run in that direc tion until 8, 30ra., gradually decreasing its rate. It then took a N. and by E. direction with the same velocity, until half an hour after midnight, when it again changed back to S.S.W., a course it pur sued during the reraainder of our stay. By the rise of the water on the shore it would appear that the flood carae frora the westward. On reaching York Island we considered our selves within the Strait, which took its narae frora the Spanish navigator Torres, who sailed in 1605, second in coraraand under Pedro Fernandes de Quiros, from Callao in Peru, with the object of dis covering the Tierra Austral, then supposed to be a continent occupying a considerable portion of the southern hemisphere, lying westward of Araerica. Torres passed through this strait in 1606, but despite the great iraportance of the discovery, its existence reraained unknown until I762, from the jealousy of the Spanish monarchy, which kept the reports of its navigators a secret from the world. At the time in question, however, Manilla fell into our hands, and in the archives of that colony, a duplicate copy of Torres's letter to the king of Spain was found by the hydrographer, Mr, Dal rymple. The passage was now made known, and in tardy justice to the discoverer it received the ap pellation of Torres' Strait ; a tribute to the reputa tion of man, the greatest perhaps which could be TORRES STRAIT. 369 bestowed, since no more sure road to immortality can be pointed out, than giving a name to the great and imperishable works of the Creator's hand. It was not however until 1770) that the world received full confirraation of this great acquisition to our geographical knowledge ; the immortal Cook then passing through and settling the question of its existence. This being the high road between our growing Eastern and Australian possessions, the reader will at once see the iraportance which must ever attach to the discovery, and will the more readily comprehend our enlarging in some degree upon the circurastance. July 13, — There had been noticed last evening a slight rippling outside the bay, and on leaving this raorningr we found it to be a ridgfe about two cables width, the least water on it being three fathoms, Frora the shoalest part, Mount Adolphus bore N. 56° E,, and Point Dicky S, 26° E. It appeared by the ripples continuing towards the north-west of York Island, that this rocky ledge extended in that direction. Vessels entering Black wood Bay may always avoid this shoal, by keeping close to Point Dicky, or by steering for Mount Adolphus, when it bears N. E, ^ N, Being desirous to know if there were a practi cable channel through Endeavour Strait, by which the inconvenience before alluded to, of passing the reef fronting Hamraond's Island late in the VOL, I, 2 B 370 cook's ISLAND, afternoon, raight be avoided, we proceeded in that direction, passing along the north-eastern extreme of the continent, and between the Possession Islands we entered Endeavour Strait, This termination of the shores of Australia, being level and of moderate elevation, presents nothing remarkable, save a peak over Cape York and fronting the Possession Isles. It has an inhospitable appearance, being apparently similar in forraation with York Isles, and subsides rapidly to the S. W. forraing the south side of En deavour Strait, where it scarcely reaches an ele vation of fifty feet : contrasting forcibly with the high rocky land of the opposite side of the Strait, formed by the largest of the Prince of Wales Islands ; upon which former navigators not having bestowed a name, we conferred that of the imraortal navigator. Not but that the Strait known by the narae of his ship, is quite sufficient to recal the raind of posterity to his perils and dangers in these seas ; but that we his humble followers in the great cause o^f dis covery raight add our mite to the wreath of glory which must ever encircle the name of Captain Cook. On the N. E. extreraity of this island is a re markable peak, in the shape of a horn, called by hira Horn Hill, Captain King having only passed between the eastern of the Possession Isles, little was known of the western shores A few angles and bearings were accordingly taken, as we passed be tween thera to assist in reraedying this deficiency. There was no impediraent to our passage through ENDEAVOUR STRAIT, 371 the Strait, until we got abreast of Wallis Isles, Cape Cornwall bearing E. by N,^N. ; when the water shoaled to four fathoras and a half. Finding by hauling up on either tack, that we were on a ridge extending frora the Cape, we ran to the west ward, until we could cross it, which we did in three and a half fathoms. North Wallis Island bearing S.W, five miles. I saw at the time frora the raast-head, a blue streak of water to the southward, still affording hopes of there being a deep outlet to Endeavour Strait ; but as the day was far advanced, with a fresh breeze from E, S, E,, it was not deemed pru dent to get the ship entangled in shoal water ; therefore, after crossing the ridge extending off Cape Cornwall we steered N,W. ^ W, for Booby Island, in regular soundings of six and seven fathoms, and late in the afternoon anchored nearly a mile frora its western side, a flag-staff bearing S, 65° E, This we found on landing had been erected in 1835 by Captain Hobson,* of H,M.S, Rattlesnake, who at the same tirae placed in a large box, raade for the purpose, a book with printed forras, which every ship passing filled up, with the addition of such remarks as were thought of consequence. Over this box in large letters were painted the words "Post Office," a naine by which Booby Island must be quite familiar to all who have navigated these seas ; ships being here in the habit of leaving * Afterwards Governor of New Zealand. 2 B 2 372 BOOBY ISLAND. letters for transraission by any vessel proceeding in the required directions. I noticed a sirailar prac tice prevailing araong the whalers at the Galapagos Islands in the Pacific. We are indebted for the book to the public spiritedness of an Indian array officer. The beneficial results of the plan were experienced by ourselves, as here we first heard of the Port Essington expedition, having passed eight months previously ; also of the schooner Es sington, that left Sydney in advance of the expedi tion for that place, having succeeded in determin ing the fact of the non-existence of the other young D'Oyly, one of the passengers of the ill-fated Charles Eaton, This result of the enterprising merchant-raan's researches, fully bears out the fact raentioned by Captain King, on the authority of the Darnley islanders, that he shared the fate of his parents, being devoured by their savage captors. All the ships which have recorded their passage in the book, appeared to have entered the Barrier be tween the latitude of 11° 30' and 12° 10' ; generally about 1 1° 50' reaching Sir Charles Hardy's Island the same day. They all spoke of a strong northerly current outside the reef, in some instances of nearly three knots. The tirae occupied in making the passage frora Sydney by the outer route, varied frora fourteen to twenty days, it being certainly shorter than the inner, though attended with much greater risks. One objection made against the latter is the necessity of anchoring every evening. ITS DESCRIPTION. 373 somewhat laborious work to the crews of merchant ships; this might be obviated in some measure by using a light anchor, which could be done with perfect safety in the still waters within the reefs. We found two barques at anchor, which had ar rived on the preceding day. In accordance with a practice very generally observed, they were giving themselves a short period of repose and relaxation after the anxieties and danger of the outer passage ; which, short as it is, has doubtless sprinkled grey hairs over raany a searaan's head. Although Booby Island is a mere rock, frora the various associations connected with it, being during one half of the year the constant resort of Euro peans, it becoraes at once a place of interest, and iraperatively demands some notice at our hands. It is a quarter of a mile in diaraeter, flat, and about thirty feet high, the summit being bare porphyry rock. A valley intersects the north-west side of the island, in which a few creepers, some brushwood, and two or three trees of tolerable size, with a pe culiar broad green leaf, bearing a great resemblance to that of the wild almond of the West Indies, were seen, giving shelter to some pigeons and quails, in which latter the island abounds, even raore than in the bird which gives its narae to the locality. Still, however, from the white colour of the top of the island, produced by the boobies, it is clearly one of their temporary haunts ; and indeed, subsequent!)', in the raonth of Septeraber, their season of incuba- 374 REMARKS ON THE tion, Mr, Bynoe saw them there in great abundance. The contrary was the case with the quail, which, by that time, had completely deserted the island. Turtle were once found on this isle, but they are now never taken, A few of the stones mentioned by Captain King are still to be seen on the summit. This being a point at which ships correct or test the going of their chronometers, it was necessary to obtain observations for longitude. The spot chosen for the purpose was the landing place near the S,W, corner of the islet, and which we found to be 9° 45' E, of Port Essington. Our opportunities of examination with regard to the inner edge of the Great Barrier, and its conti guous islands and reefs, terminating at Booby Island ; it may not be deeraed irrelevant to hazard a few reraarks in recapitulation. In the first place there was a very perceptible increase in the eleva tion of the reefs and of those islands resting on sirailar constructions, as we advanced to the north ward, Cairncross Island, in lat. 11 j°S,, coraposed of heaped up consolidated fragments, attains an elevation of 17 feet ; but its trees rise to a height of 75 feet, whilst to the southward, in lat. 13|-° S. the islands were partially flooded by a tide, rising only about six feet. The reefs are all either circular or oval shaped, with a rim rising round them. The de scription of that fronting the isle we visited for Boydan will illustrate their general character. Their northern ends are the highest, and are alraost invariably raarked by a heap of dead coral and CORAL REEFS OF AUSTRALIA, 375 shells, which as we have raentioned, in one or two instances, from its white appearance has often been taken for sand. The remarkable breaks in this singularly great extent of coral reefs, known as the Barrier of Aus tralia, being in direction varying from W. to W,N,W. generally speaking N.W., leads me to believe that the upheaval by which the base of this huge coral building was forraed, partakes of the general north westerly direction, in which a large portion of the eastern world apparently eraerged frora the water. A glance at the map of that portion of the globe, will strengthen this hypothesis, placing as it does this singular fact at once before the reader's mind. Starting with the stupendous heights of the Hima laya raountains, and proceeding thence to several groups of the Polynesian islands. New Caledonia, and others, this reraarkable similarity in the trend of these portions of the earth is plainly distinguish able. It would appear, therefore, from the gene ral north-westerly tendency of these upheavals, that the cavernous hollows beneath the crust of the earth, within whose bosom originated these remarkable convulsions, have a strong inclination in one direction, a circurastance in connection with the earth's history of great and curious interest. With this general statement of facts, which we note for the benefit of scientific men, and in illustration ofthe singular changes which are taking place on the surface of the globe, we return to our narrative, 376 PROCEED TO PORT ESSINGTON. from which we have wandered at sorae considerable length. As the duration of our cruise on the north-west and raost interesting portions of the coast, depended in a great measure on the supply of provisions to be obtained at Port Essington, we were naturally anxious to satisfy ourselves upon the point, and accordingly spent but a few hours at Booby Island, taking our departure at 8, p. m, on the day of our arrival. Proceeding towards Port Essington, we expe rienced a constant current setting between N. W. and West, from half to three quarters of a knot an hour, except when crossing the mouth of the Gulf of Carpentaria, when from the indraught its direc tion was changed to W. S. W. The winds were as Captain King has described them, veering from S, S. E, in the morning, to East in the evening, and blowing fresh towards the raiddle of the day. Beyond this nothing occurred worthy of remark, until the morning of the 17th, when soon after daylight we found ourselves steering rather within a large patch of discoloured water, extending off Cape Croker, the N, E. extrerae of the Coburg Peninsula, a low point with a slight humraock on it ; on the north side of this peninsula is situated Port Essing ton, thirty railes to the westward of the Cape. The light-coloured water off the latter, we knew indicated the reef discovered by the brig Tigris, be longing to the Indian navy, which in company with CAPE CROKER REEF. 377 the New South Wales colonial schooner, Isabella, was returning frora rescuing the survivors of the Charles Eaton, from the natives of Murray Island. When half a mile from the N. E. side, in 22 fathoms rocky bottom. Cape Croker, bearing S, 29° E. six railes ; we steered out, keeping at the same distance round this patch of light water in twenty and twenty-one fathoms, seven or eight miles from the Cape, which bore when over what appeared the shoalest part, S. 42° E. This conclusion I afterwards found, on meeting Captain Stanley, to be correct, as that bearing led over the part of the reef he struck on in H. M, S. Britomart, Butbeingon theinnerparthe was distant only three miles frora Cape Croker, whilst the outer edge of the reef I believe to be seven railes frora it on the sarae bearing. In hauling up to the south ward, round the N. W. extreme of the discoloured water, the soundings were as follows, 17, 12, and 19 fathoms, with rocky bottom. The Cape bore when in the least depth S, 58° E. nine railes. We were fortunate in having such good raeans of deterraining the longitude of Cape Croker, by observation of a twilight star when in the meridian, and others with the sun soon afterwards. These both agreeing, place the Cape 27| miles east of Port Essington, instead of 20, as it is laid down in the chart. This discovery is of vital iraportance to ships proceeding to Port Essington ; we were there fore glad of so good an opportunity for rectifying the error... 378 PORT ESSINGTON. Expectation was on tip-toe as we were fast approaching Port Essington, feeling naturally anxious to see what progress had been made at the new settleraent, and to learn the fate of the expe dition. There was, however, nothing striking in the first appearance of the land, a low woody shore; the most remarkable object being a sandy islet, with a tree in its centre, about a mile east of Point Smith, the eastern point of Port Essington : Vashon Head forminjj the western. As we drew near, a boat came alongside belonging to H. M. S. Britomart. From Mr, Pascoe we heard that the Alligator had just sailed for Sydney, leaving the former to await her return at Port Essington. The people forming the settlement had been very healthy, bearing out Dr, Wilson's account of Raffles Bay ; and had found the natives exceedingly well disposed. For this advantage we are indebted to the excellent judgraent displayed by the unfor tunate* Captain Barker, late Coraraandant of Raffles * This expression may to some of our readers require explana tion, and we therefore quote a brief extract from Dr. Wilson's voyage round the world, p. 284. — " In obedience to orders from the Colonial Government, he was examining the coast in the vicinity of Encounter Bay, principally with the view of ascertain ing whether any available communication existed between the river Murray (lately discovered by Captain Sturt) and the sea. While in the execution of this duty, he was barbarously murdered by the natives, and his body thrown into the sea." In " Sturt's two Expeditions," vol. ii, p. 239, a detailed narrative of this tragedy is given. WRECK OF THE ORONTES. 379 Bay, he having during his stay in that place, treated them with kindness, to which they were fairly en titled from raen so far their superiors in knowledge and power, and who were raoreover intruders upon their soil. Had this noble conduct of Captain Barker been raore universally accepted as an exaraple, the results would, we doubt not, have been equally satisfactory elsewhere. We also heard with rauch regret, * of the wreck of the Orontes, which accorapanied the expedition frora Sydney, She left the settlement, with the intention of proceeding to sorae port in the East Indies ; and when just clearing the harbour struck on a reef, knocking a hole in her bows. She filled so rapidly that they had barely time to reach the shore under Vashon Head, ere she sank. The reef, which now bears her narae, is according to Mr, Tyers's plan, received frora Mr, Pascoe, a mile in ex tent east and west, and half a mile north and south; while the nearest part of it is distant from Vashon Head and Point Smith very nearly five miles. From its extremes the following are the bearings ; from the western, Vashon Head S. 49° W., Point * The loss of a ship is always looked upon as a most untoward event, on the occasion of a new settleraent being formed, and is ever forcibly imprinted upon the memory of all ship-masters. This was felt to a most serious extent at Swan River ; and many masters of vessels in speaking of Port Essington, have at once expressed tbeir fear of proceeding thither, deterred by the loss of the Orontes. 380 ORONTES REEF. Sraith S, 55° E. : and from the eastern the same points bear S. 60° W, and S. 48° E. The least depth on the Orontes reef is about a fathora, but the generally- discoloured state of the water, renders it irapossible to deterraine its exact position, and thus greatly increases the injury done by its presence to the raouth of the harbour. The same difficulty prevents the end of the reef fronting Point Smith from being raade out. After rounding the latter, we hauled to the wind, S. W. by S. up Port Essington. CHAPTER XI, PORT ESSINGTON — BEARINGS FROM SHOALS IN THE HAR BOUR APPEARANCE or THE SETTLEMENT — MEET CAP TAIN STANLEY — CHURCH POINT RECORD PROSPECTS OF THE SETTLEMENT BUFFALOES ESCAPE FENCE ACROSS NECK OF PENINSULA LIEUT, P. B. STEWART EXPLORES THE COUNTRY NATIVES USES OF SAND TUMULI- BUILDING BIRDS BEAUTIFUL OPOSSUM — WILD BEES — ESCAPE FROM AN ALLIGATOR RESULT OF ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS — GEOLOGICAL FORMATION — RAFFLES BAY LEAVE PORT ESSINGTON POPHAM BAY DETECT ERROR IN POSITION OP PORT ESSINGTON MELVILLE ISLAND DISCOVER A REEF IN CLARENCE STRAIT CAPE HOTHAM NATIVE HUTS AND CLOTHING— GEOLO GICAL PORMATION DISCOVER THE ADELAIDE RIVER — INTERVIEW WITH NATIVES ATTEMPT TO COME ON BOARD MESSRS. FITZMAURICE AND KEYS NEARLY SPEARED EXPLORATION OP THE ADELAIDE ITS CAPA BILITIES WOOD DUCKS — VAMPIRES ANOTHER PARTY ASCENDS THE ADELAIDE MEET NATIVES — CANOES ALLIGATOR — VISIT MELVILLE ISLAND — GREEN ANTS THOUGHTS OP TAKING SHIP UP ADELAIDE ABANDONED TIDES IN DUNDAS STRAIT RETURN TO PORT ESSINGTON THEATRICALS — H. M. S. PELORUS ARRIVES WITH PRO VISIONS FURTHER REMARKS ON THE COLONY. The expanse of water presented to our view in standing up Port Essington, quite dehghted us. It is in truth a raagnificent harbour, and well worthy of having on its shores the capital of Northem Aus- 382 PORT ESSINGTON. tralia, destined, doubtless, from its proximity to India, and our other fast increasing eastern posses sions, to become not only a great commercial resort, but a valuable naval post in time of war. Many cir cumstances corabine to render it a desirable station. Its great size, having an extent sufficient to hold the largest fleet, is in itself of vast importance, while, as a shelter for distressed vessels, or the surviving crews of wrecks, it cannot be too highly rated : the raore so that excellent wood for repairing ships grows in the neighbourhood, espe cially teak and oak, specimens of which with others. Captain Laws forwarded, in 1828, to one of the dockvards in Enarland, As we advanced the shores of the harbour con tracted, and at the distance of thirteen miles frora the entrance are only one mile apart ; scarcely half, however, of this space is navigable, frora a bank extending off the west side, which is a rocky head called Spear Point, frora the circurastance of Cap tain King having been there nearly speared by the natives. The bearinos for clearing the extreraes of this reef are as follows. For the south-eastern, Adara Head S, 20° W , for the eastern. Middle Head S, 18° W,, and for the north-eastern, Oyster Head N. 47° W, This great decrease in the breadth of the passage, necessarily gives the tide at this spot great rapidity, by which a channel, thirteen fathoras deep, has been forraed close to the BEARINGS FOR THE HARBOUR. 383 eastern shore, a low sandy tongue of land called Point Record. This name was given to it on the occasion of Port Essington and the contiguous country, being taken possession of by Sir Gordon Bremer when on his way to settle Melville Island, in 1824. A bottle containing an account of their proceedings was buried, and hence the name. The same cause which influences the tides, has rendered the sides of the narrow channel very steep, and a vessel standing towards the bank fronting Spear Point, should, accordingly, tack when the water shoals to nine fathoms, as the soundings in ap proaching that part fronting Port Record are 12, 9, 7, and 2 fathoras. Beyond these points, the harbour again widens and forms a large basin nearly five miles in extent ; but from a broad point projecting two railes frora the south-east side, the inner harbour is proportionably decreased in size, Frora the extreme of this cliffy point, called by Captain King, from its position. Middle Head, a narrow bank extends some distance in the direction of Point Record, forming the only danger in this part of the harbour. From its outer edge. Point Record bears north, and the N. E. part of Middle Head, S. 76° E. These and other bearings recently given, will perhaps be considered of little value by the general reader, but as they were required to take the Beagle into Port Essing ton, they will be found useful to others for the same purpose. 384 APPEARANCE OF THE SETTLEMENT, The narrow entrance to the inner harbour, may by some be considered a draw-back, but on the other hand, it raust be borne in raind,[that what is an impediraent to navigation, is alsol a safeguard against attack. Moreover, from this want of breadth in the harbour, a fort on Point Record, which is commanded by no height, would perfectly protect it. It was from this confined portion that our anxious desire to catch a glimpse of the new settlement was at length gratified ; and we were somewhat sur prised, considering the recent date of its formation, to discover the presence of so many buildings as were scattered over the top of a cliffy point on the south-west part of the harbour, called Adam Head, at the base of which was a long jetty. Clearing the bank off Spear Point, we ran up and anchored near H.M,S, Britoraart, lying off the settle raent, early in the afternoon. The sight of another vessel is ever cheering to the hearts of those who have been, as it were, for a tirae, cut off from the world ;* nor was our arrival, bringing, as we did, news and letters, any less welcome; though after a long interval the receipt of a letter, perhaps bearing an ill omen in the very colour of its wax, is very far from generat ing unmixed eraotions of pleasure. So much may * I well remember the sensations I experienced on first seeing a sail after an interval of nine months, and that wholly spent on the storm-beaten shores of South-western Tierra Del Fuego. — J. L. S, PORT ESSINGTON, 385 occur in the brief space of a few raonths, that a seal must ever be broken with feelings of great anxiety. We too had our share of news to be made ac quainted with. Captain Stanley had been on a most interesting cruize to the Arru Islands, the deeply interesting narrative of which expedition the reader will peruse, we are sure, with unqualified satisfac tion, in a later section of the present work. This meeting gave me real pleasure, though with regret I saw that he had been much harassed, Lieut, P. B, Stewart,* of the Alligator, had also made a journey over the Peninsula, to which I shall pre sently further allude. We were of course extremely anxious to visit the settlement. Landing at the jetty, which we found a very creditable piece of workmanship erected under the direction of Lieut. P. B. Stewart, we ascended the cliff, and on gaining the summit, found ourselves on a small piece of table land partially cleared. Seen through the trees, the dwellings ofthe settlers had an air of neatness, pleasing to the eye. Araong the other buildings in progress was the church, which, planted as it was on the northern shores of the Australian continent, was expected to form a nucleus frora which off-shoots raight by degrees draw within its influence the islands in the Arafura Sea, and thus widely spread the pure blessings of Christianity. It is * Since promoted for services in China ; he also served in the Beagle during her last expedition. VOL, I. 2 C 386 PORT ESSINGTON. highly characteristic of our countrymen, that where with other nations, the tavern, the theatre, the dancing hoilse, are among the earliest buildings in a new settlement, with us every where the church is first thought of. In few corners of the world, where English influence has extended itself, is this otherwise than true, and it is a highly enviable dis tinction. It seems, indeed, that wherever the flag of Britain floats, there is made known the Word of God in its purity; and as an empire has been vouchsafed us on which the sun never sets, the extent of our influence for good in this respect is incalculable. We may venture to express our sincere hope, that our country will ever continue to enjoy this noble supreraacy. At the south-east extremity of the settlement, raised on piles, was the Government-house, fronted on the harbour side by a small battery. Behind the table- plain, the land, producing very coarse grass, falls away to the south-west, and some clear patches which from lying in a low situation, are flooded during the rains, forra tolerable soil. Generally speaking, however, there is a great deficiency of land fit for cultivation. On sorae of the best spots lying to the southward and westward, gardens have been com menced with some success. Before proceeding further with our journal of events at Port Essington, it raay be proper to intro duce sorae brief account of the state and prospects of the settleraent at that place. The reader will remeraber an allusion in a previous chapter to PORT ESSINGTON. 387 the departure from Sydney of the expedition des patched for the purpose of forraing it, as well as some reraarks on the policy of giving it a purely military character. That expedition reached its destination on October 27, 1838, having taken formal possession on the way, of Cape York and the adja cent territory. Sir Gordon Bremer's first care was to select a site for the proposed township ; and after due deliberation, a spot was fixed on which was thought to corabine all desirable advantages : as good soil, the neighbourhood of fresh water, and easy approach from the ships in port. In the se lection of the spot to be occupied by a settlement, the capabilities of the soil must ever be the first consideration ; still, however, there will always exist an objection on the ground of its great distance of 16 miles from the mouth of the harbour, A similar disadvantage in the Falkland Islands, proved of great detriment to the settlement in Berkeley Sound. The site of Victoria, for such was the name bestowed, in honour of her Majesty, on the new settleraent, is raised in the loftiest part about fifty feet above high-water level. Upon it the plans of a nuraber of cottages and gardens were rapidly raarked out; and it was not long before this hitherto desolate spot presented the appearance of a large straggling village, A pier was speedily run out into the sea; and a good road cut to it. The church, also, which I have before mentioned, was soon to be distinguished, 2 c 2 388 PORT ESSINGTON, rising above the Government cottage and officers' quarters ; while in order to ensure an ample supply of water, deep wells were sunk on the table-land within the settlement, which fully answered expec tation, the water proving good and abundant. Not long after the arrival of the expedition, M, Duraont D'Urville, with the Astrolabe and Zelie, arrived in Raffles Bay, and it was popularly be lieved that they had entertained some intentions of forestalling our settleraent. • At any rate, the ques tion whether foreign powers were entitled to take possession of points on the eoast of Australia was much debated at the tirae. However this may be, and with whatever feelings the respective Govern ments of France and England may have regarded each other at the time, the officers of the two nations seemed to vie in courtesy. A boat was despatched from Victoria to invite them to enter the harbour, and the greatest harmony prevailed during their stay. On the 28th of March, six Malay praos came in and were soon followed by others, their owners so liciting permission to erect their establishments for curing trepang under the protection of the British flag. This being granted, they made choice of a •spot on the beach, and a little subsidiary settlement soon sprung up. Being now for the first time se cure frora the attacks of the natives, whose hostility had until then forced every other man of them to keep under arms whilst the rest worked, they PORT ESSINGTON. 389 expected to pursue their occupation with far greater advantage to theraselves. Originally hopes were entertained that a very large population of Malays, and even Chinese would speedily collect at Port Essington : but frora sorae defect in the colonial re gulations their iraraigration was for a tirae checked. At length, however, a remedy has been applied, and facility given for the introduction of settlers from the Indian Archipelago and the Celestial Empire. The great difficulty that this small settlement has had to contend with from the beginning, is the climate ; which, though not absolutely pernicious in itself, is unsuited to European constitutions. The settlers have been attacked at various tiraes by fever, and have experienced a large comparative mortality ; but hopes are entertained that by proper regulations, especially if teraperate habits could be introduced, this may be avoided. The capabilities of the soil, though it has by some been pronounced totally unfit for agricultural pur poses, are still supposed by others to be great, and it is believed that if colonists, capable of working in the cliraate, could be induced to repair to Port Essington, rice, cotton, indigo, &c. raight be raised, of the finest quality, and in great abundance. The live stock at the settleraents, consisted, by the last accounts, of an English cow and a bull, two Indian heifers and two cows, above fifty goats, six working oxen, thirty buffaloes, six pigs, a 390 PORT ESSINGTON. few fowls, five ponies, and thirty half-greyhounds for catching kangaroos. Some of these were private, others public property. Several cattle have been lost, on hearing which, a plan that had before suggested itself, recurred vividly to my mind. I once thought the herds of buffalo and other animals might be prevented from straying, by a fence run across the Peninsula, between Mount Norris Bay, and the north-east corner of Van Die- men's Gulf. The width is only three miles, and the rude Micraac Indians of Newfoundland, have car ried fences for a sirailar purpose raany times that extent. The necessity of so doing becarae more apparent each time I visited the place, especially when I heard of herds of buffaloes being seen upon the raain. Another advantage which occurred to rae in connection with this subject, was, that it would have rendered an out-station necessary, and have thus led to a further communication with the natives, which would ultimately tend to increase our knowledge of them and the interior ; this after our subsequent discovery of Adelaide river became of still greater raoraent. The existence of the out- station would also form a change for the settlers, and journeys thither would reraove the dreary inac tivity of a new settlement at certain periods. The absence of this fence raay account for Captain Grey's party having seen signs of buffalo on the raain land ; he discovered the tracks of a cloven footed aniraal, which one of his raen who had been PORT ESSINGTON. 391 much in South Africa, at once recognised as the spur of a buffalo. But one advantage can arise frora the want of this precaution. Sorae of the finest lands in the neighbourhood of Sydney, now called Cow Pastures, were discovered, by finding thera to be the constant haunt of wild cattle ; a similar accident might prove equally advantageous in the neighbourhood of Port Essington. To return, however, to the period of the esta blishment of the colony : it was of course deemed desirable to take an early opportunity of exploring Coburg Peninsula, on which Victoria is situated ; and accordingly on May 1st, Lieut. P. B. Stewart, with several well-armed companions, started on an exploring expedition. They carried water and a week's provisions on two ponies, but did not en cumber themselves with a tent ; sheltering thera selves at night from the dew in little huts made of branches. On the second day they crossed several running streams, with extensive grassy patches, and came to a halt during the sultry part of the day on the banks of a river or chain of pools. Here grew raany fine cedar-trees, of a light colour and close-grained, while thick woods of the raangrove appeared on all sides : these much impeded their advance, and prevented them from making any great progress. However, they crossed to the eastern side of the Peninsula, where they found a rich and beautiful country, in sorae parts rerainding them of the rich South American forest, rather to 392 PORT ESSINGTON. than the dreary sameness of an Australian wood. Numerous tracks of the buffalo seemed to testify to the excellence of the pasture. Several evidences, also, of the presence of natives were from time to time discovered, and at length a small party met them and exhibited a very friendly spirit. They acted as guides to the explorers, shewing them where water could be found, giving every informar tion in their power, and supplying thera with crabs ; but of course they did not fail to ask for bread, of which as rauch as could be spared was given them. On May Sth, they conducted Lieut. Stewart's party back to Middle Head, and he expresses great surprise at the precision with which they found their way in the bush without having any apparent means to guide them, I have before alluded to this instinctive power of the aborigines of Australia. Lieut. Stewart gives as the general result of his observations, extending over about seventy or eighty miles, that there is abundance of fresh water on the Peninsula ; that the South side is by far the finest and best watered country ; that the trees are there free frora the white ant ; and that in a large tract of country, the cabbage palm abounds. He also observes, that as rauch of the south-coast as he saw, has a coral reef extending about a raile from the beach ; and that the rise and fall of the tide is much greater than at Port Essington. 'The natives were found by the settlers, as we PORT ESSINGTON. 393 have already stated, very friendly, and their assis tance proved valuable : they brought in the head of the palm cabbage, which makes an excellent vegetable, though to procure it, the tree is cut down and destroyed : they also supplied the party with wild honey. One of the Raffles Bay tribe instantly made hiraself known on the arrival of the Expedi tion in the Bay ; he was called by the name of Alligator, on account of his huge teeth, though his proper appellation was Marambari. From Lieut. Vallach of H. M. S, Britomart, I received rauch valuable inforraation respecting the natives, whora I find to be divided in three distinct classes, which do not intermarry, Tije first is known as Maudrojilly, the second as Mamburgy, the third as Mandrouilly. They are very particular about the distinction of classes, but we could never dis cover which was the superior and which the in ferior class, though it is supposed by most of those who have inquired into the subject, that the Madro- jilly, or first class, head the others in war, and govern the affairs of the tribe. These aborigines were certainly a fine race, differ ing in sorae raatters from the other natives of Aus tralia ; their hair was neither curly nor straight, but crisp. The custom of extracting a front tooth prevails among them, while the nasal cartilage here as elsewhere was perforated. I noticed in par ticular that they did not make use of the boome rang, or kiley, but of the throwing stick or wamara, * Lieut. Vallach died at Moulmain in 1811. 394 PORT ESSINGTON, of a larger kind, however, than any I have observed elsewhere ; the head of their spears was made of stone. They have a sraaller kind, chiefly used to kill birds and other animals at a considerable dis tance. They have also large heavy clubs, while the natives on the South coast carry only the short throwing stick.* They go wholly naked, except when entering the settlements, on which occasions they wear a few leaves. Their canoes were chiefly obtained 'from the Malays, I here saw the only rausical instruraent I ever remarked among the natives of Australia, It is a piece of bamboo thinned from the inside, through which they blow with their noses. It is from two to three feet long, is called ebroo, and produces a kind of droning noise. It is generally made use of at cor robories or dances, sorae of which express feats of hunting and war, while others are very indecent, and rerainded us pf sirailar exhibitions in the East. It was generally reraarked that the old clothes given to these savages disappeared in a most mys terious manner. They were understood to be sold to the natives inhabiting the loftier parts of the interior, but of this I entertain very considerable doubt. Sand, in which the Australian continent abounds, is like everything else proceeding from the hand of the Creator, not without its uses. On cold nights the natives make up for their total want of * We refer our readers to Mr. Eyre's work, where these and other weapons are figured. PORT ESSINGTON, 395 covering, by burying themselves in it, and nothing can be more irresistibly comic than to see these black luraps sticking out of the earth, like so raany enchanted unfortunates in an eastern romance. It moreover has other uses, forming a substitute for soap ;* and when cooking turtle it is mixed with earth and sprinkled over the raeat, as we should pepper. One discovery which was made through the medium of the natives, was that the large tumuli noticed by Captain King and others, and supposed to be raised by the inhabitants, are the works of a bird; some of them are thirty-feet long and about five feet high ; they are always built near thick bushes in which they can take shelter, at the least alarm. The edifice is erected with the feet, which are re markable both for size and strength, and a peculiar power of grasping ; they are yellow while the body is brown. Nothing can be raore curious than to see them hopping towards these piles on one foot, the other being filled with materials for building. Though much smaller in shape, in raanner they rauch reserable moor-fowl. The use made of the mound is to contain eggs, which are deposited in layers, and are then hatched by the heat generated in part from decomposition. The instant that the shell bursts, the young bird comes forth strong and large, and runs without the slightest care being taken of it by the parent. Of the number * Their general habits are cleanly. 396 PORT ESSINGTON. of eggs laid by each bird, seldom more than two are hatched. It is singular that these mounds are found away from the earth and shells of which they are composed. It seeras difficult to credit that a bird so small could raise a structure so large. The largest we ever saw was about eight feet high; on one of the Possession Islands in Endeavour Strait. The name given to the bird by Mr. Gould is Megapodius tumulus, and it will be unnecessary to enter upon any further details concerning it, as he has described it raost interestingly in his work on the birds of Australia. Great numbers of kangaroos were also found here, which at the period of our arrival the settlers were just getting into the way of killing. There are three varieties, of which the largest weighs about 160 pounds. I must further allude to a most beautiful little opossum which inhabits these parts. It is about half the size of a full-grown rat, and de signated as belideus ariel. Its colour and fur greatly reserable the chinchilla, and I have little doubt that the skin is valuable and might be raade an article of trade. This aniraal has a raembrane be tween the fore and hind paws, which aids it to some extent when leaping from bough to bough. It is a great eneray to the wild bee, devouring them and their nests ; the bees the natives discover by tap ping the tree and listening for a buzzing from within. Those we saw, araounting to nearly a hun dred, were about the size of a fly, of a dusky black PORT ESSINGTON, 397 colour, and strange to say, were hovering round an erapty tar-barrel. They have been unsuccessfully tried in hives at Sydney. Alligators abound, and one of the marines had a very narrow escape from thera. It appears that one of these monsters who had corae out of the water in the night, in search of food, found hira sleeping in his hararaock, which he had very inju diciously hung up near the water. The alligator made a snap at his prize; but startled at this frightful interruption of his slumbers, the man dexterously extricated hiraself out of his blanket, which the unwieldy brute, doubtless enraged at his disappointraent, carried off in triuraph. For some time this story was not believed, but when after wards the huge reptile, on a similar excursion, was shot, a portion of the blanket was found in his storaach with the paw of a favourite spaniel, taken when swiraraing off the pier head. Extensive hauls of flsh were raade on Point Record, amongst which one species, there called salraon, was most excellent eating. It is unnecessary for a transient visitor to enlarge upon the birds of Port Essington, as in Mr. Gould's work we have the result ofthe labours of an individual who spent months collecting in the neighbourhood. The spot selected for our observations was Go vernment house, where nearly a hundred observa tions with the sun and stars were made for latitude, the mean result being 11° 22' 21" S., which strange 398 PORT ESSINGTON, to say, was nearly 15 seconds greater than Captain Stanley and Mr. Tyers's deterraination : this dif ference to me was quite unaccountable, as the instruments used in the Beagle were before and subsequently, satisfactorily tested at well deterrained places. The longitude being affected by the doubt ful meridian distance between Sydney and Port Stephen, we can only give an approximate re sult ; and therefore for the sake of the longitudes of those places referred to the meridian of Port Essington, we consider it 132° 12' East of Green wich. From the quantity of iron in the rocks at Vic toria, it was impossible to get any satisfactory obser vation for the variation of the compass. Those obtained varied from | to 2^ degrees east. We found that Mr, Tyers had made about seven months' observations on the tides, which gave a very irregular rise and fall, varying from two to thirteen feet. The time of high-water being half past three, at the full and change. Oxide of iron" is found in some places in large quantities, and is used by the natives to adorn themselves when dancing. This it is which gives to the coast the peculiar red hue noticed between Cape Croker and Port Essing ton, Many of the cliffs were coraposed of a light- coloured raarle ; but the forraation is chiefly old arenaceous rocks. Two of the highest and raost reraarkable hills on the Peninsula, known as Mounts Bedwell and Rose, have singular flat tops. RAFFLES BAY. 399 bearing some resemblance to the curious appearance of Cape Bedford. I am inclined to believe this formation to be floetz trappe. Their elevation is about four hundred feet, being twice the general height of the Peninsula, The teraperature during our stay averaged 82°, while land and sea breezes prevailed. We should not omit to mention, that Lieut, Stewart, when visiting Raffles Bay in order to invite the French officers as above alluded to, found that a deep inlet intervening, formed a good harbour, to which he gave the name of Port Bremer, Of the old settle ment nothing remained, save the graves of those whose labours had tended to render this part of Australia another outlet for the surplus population of the raother country, extending at the same tirae the blessings of civilization. The rapid growth of rank vegetation had swept all else away, and there in soleran solitude, upon that still and silent shore, mouldered the bones of the original colonists of Raffles Bay, whose praiseworthy efforts were ren dered futile, by the unfavourable reports forwarded to Government ; reports we cannot think entirely free frora prejudice, when we know from Captain Law's account, that one of the Comraandants de clared that he felt disposed to sell out of the army iu preference to going there,* One thus prepared to dislike the place, could scarcely be expected to * See Wilson's Voyage round the World, p. 153. 400 RAFFLES BAY. take an interest in the country, or endeavour fully to develope its resources. We cannot avoid expressing our regret at .the abandonraent of the settlement in Raffles Bay, after it had gone on so far successfully under Captain Barker's excellent management. In mentioning his kindness to the natives, to whose good will we must always owe much, we have already given one of the causes which assisted in fostering the under taking. Nothing could be more unwise than the hostility shewn to the natives by the first settlers, as from them we must always calculate on learning much that is useful and valuable, with regard to the productions of the country ; a knowledge which would otherwise consurae much time to acquire. This was not the only raatter, however, in which he shevved his superior good sense and judgment. His enticing the people of Macassar to corae and locate there, was another instance of his foresight, which would have led in tirae to very favourable results. He was soon, however, compelled to retract his invitation, writing from Coepang to the Dutch Governor of Macassar, in order to stop the iraraigration, which otherwise would have been considerable. With all these several eleraents of success, we should doubtless, but for the abandon ment, have now had a flourishing settlement in Northern Australia. The causes which led to its breaking up, are thus succinctly given by Dr. Wilson. "The alleged causes were: 1st, the un- RAFFLES BAY. 401 healthiness of the climate ;— 2ndly, the hostility of the natives ;— and 3rdly, the non-visitation of the Malays." These he clearly proved, as we have subsequently done, tobe without rauch foundation; but we ourselves do not so much deplore the leaving of Raffles Bay, perhaps an ill -chosen site, but rather that the settle ment was not reraoved instead of being given up. When the anxieties and difficulties which univer sally accompany the formation of a new settlement are reflected on, the regret we have already expressed will be more easily understood. When Port Es- sington was located, all these had to be suffered over again ; whereas had the station at Raffles Bay, been transferred thither at once, it would have been now at a very high pitch of perfection. Besides, however small the spot on which the English flag waves constantly, it will always prove a check on the marauding propensities of the neighbouring islanders, and thus add materially to the general welfare and civilization of such portions of the globe as fall within the influence of the respected locality.* * In farther proof of ^the prospects of success, which were open to the new settlement under its able Commandant, we give the following extract from 'Dr. Wilson's journal, when at Coe pang, in company with Captain Barker, after their final depar ture from Raffles Bay. " We were ,informed jby the master of the Mercus, that many Chinese were about to emigrate from Java to Eaffles Bay, having recently learned that they would be VOL. I, 2 D 402 LEAVE PORT ESSINGTON. July 24. — Finding that we could not procure a supply of provisions from the settlement, our stay was necessarily, though reluctantly, of short durar tion, and on the morning of the 24th, we were accordingly running out of Port Essington. After rounding Vashon Head, we steered to the westward, along the northern side of the Peninsula, and early in the afternoon anchored in Popham Bay, one point of which is formed by the N. W. extreme of the Peninsula, a low projection with one tall mangrove growing on the point, and fronted by an extensive coral reef, past which a two-knot tide sweeps into the gulf of Van Diemen. On the eastern side of this projection is a snug boat or small craft harbour, rauch frequented by the Malays, who call it Blue-raud Bay. It raay be recognized by a little island lying off its raouth. Our attention having been directed towards the openings on the coast opposite Melville Island, we proceeded towards the first, lying on the south side of Clarence Strait. It was further important to ascertain, if that strait was navigable, and also to examine the south eastern-side of Melville Island. Finding the western shore of Coburg Peninsula placed too far from Port Essington on the chart, it was deterrained to coraraence the survey at Pop- permitted to do so. The total abandonment of the North coast of New Holland caused much regret to the mercantile people here, as they had anticipated great advantages from a commercial intercourse." — Wilson's Narrative, f. 179. Blft^D ISLAND. 403 ham Bay, choosing for the observation spot a small bank of sand and dead coral lying in its centre, and bearing E. ^ S. | of a mile from where we anchored in nine fathoras. We named this Bird Island, from finding it almost covered with terns and gulls. The latitude of it according to our obser vations was 11° 15i' S. and longitude West of Port Essington 22^ railes, being 4|^ less than is given in Captain King's chart, the N. W. extreme of the Peninsula being there placed too far from Port Essington, and the N. E. point. Cape Croker. too near, it would appear that the discrepancy was chiefly in the position of Port Essington, with respect to the northern extreraes of the Peninsula, as Captain King and ourselves only now differ two miles in the distance between Cape Croker and Popham Bay, ours being the greater. The evening was calm as usual, while midnight brought with it a fresh S. E. wind. During the night the terapera ture was as low as 73°. July 25. — On leaving at daylight we crossed over to exaraine the western shores of Dundas Strait, forraed by the eastern side of Melville Island ; Captain King having passed it in the night. As we stood close along it into the gulf, we found the soundings very irregular. Six miles N. 40° E. from Cape Keith, we passed over two patches of onlv three or four fathoms ; these we could not see tl * from the general disturbed and discoloured state of the water, it blowing fresh frora S. E, We found 2 D 2 404 CLARENCE STRAIT, the nature of this part of Melville Island to be low rocky points, separating sandy bays. One of the few remarkable features on it, is a round hill 320 feet high, five railes N, W. from Cape Keith, Passing the latter, we crossed over to the opposite eastern entrance point of Clarence Strait, Cape Hotham, discovering on our way thither a reef nearly a wash, about two miles in extent, bearing S. 25° W, fifteen miles from Cape Keith, and N, 10" E. fourteen miles from Cape Hothara. The deepest water we found while crossing was 22 fathoms, five miles north of the latter, the general depth being 13 and 15 fathoms. The wind failing in the afternoon, it was evening when we reached our anchorage in nine fathoms. Cape Hotham bearing S. 43 W,, two miles and a half, and close to the edge of a large shoal which we subsequently found to extend a mile and a half north, and six miles east frora the Cape, Here we found the tides set W, by S. and E. N. E. frora half a knot to two knots, the westerly stream beginning nearly three hours after high water, a peculiarity generally occurring in straits. July 26. — After one of those soft and lovely evenings so coraraon to this part of Australia, with a gentle breeze and cloudless sky, we were surprised to find that the morning opened dreary and gloomy. There was a very fresh S. S. E, wind with heavy masses of clouds ; the breeze continued until noon, when as usual it subsided. We moved the ship a few miles down the opening in the south side of the " NATIVE COMPANION," 405 strait, and in the afternoon a party went on shore near Cape Hothara. We found the country very poor and sandy, and elevated about fifteen feet above high water mark. Despite this, the white gum-trees appear to thrive, growing in great abun dance, about thirty or forty feet high ; there were also others of a different kind, besides a few palms. The rocks were red sand and ironstone blended together. In sorae places I noticed it had the sarae glazed and vitrified appearance, as before remarked by me at King's Sound, on the N. W. coast. Mr. Bynoe, who was of the party, added to his collection of birds, a kingfisher, and a specimen of a glossy species about the size and colour of an English blackbird ; others were seen and killed, but all common to other parts ; the most rare of the latter was the large cream-coloured pigeon I have alluded to, some few pages back. The white ibis with a black neck, plentiful in King's Sound, and a large bird, a species of crane, were also seen. The latter was of a French grey hue, with the exception of the head, which was black and of the shape of a bittern, coraraonly known araong the colonists bv the narae of " native corapanion." It is difficult to iraagine how this narae could have originated, as there is no instance of the natives raaking a pet of anything, except the wild dog of the country, and of that only, it is probable, frora its utility in procuring them food. On visiting this place a few days afterwards, to repeat the observations for the 406 NATIVE CLOTHING. errors of the chronometers, we saw a few natives, but they avoided an interview, disappearing when we landed. They made tbe same motions with their arms, throwing them open, and bowing as the natives in King's Sound did. The few huts I fell in with, rerainded rae of one I had seen near the N. W. part of King's Sound, a representation of which will be found in the portion of the work descriptive of that locality. Those on Cape Hothara, to enter more into par ticulars, did not exceed five feet in height, nor were they so substantially built ; they were, however, well thatched with the same kind of coarse grass. The entrances were carefully closed, except in one in stance, when the aperture was so sraall that it was with difficulty I could crawl in ; when I had entered there was nothing to gratify my curiosity. Hanging on trees round these habitations, were specimens of an article of clothing, never before seen among the Aborigines of Australia, for which reasonlhave been induced to give the adjoining wood cut of one.* It is a kind of cover ing for the shoulders, a species of cape, made from coarse grass. Baskets were also left hanging on the trees, bespeaking the honesty of the inhabitants of this part of the country. * I have since heard from Mr. Earl, that the women in the S. E. part of Van Diemen's Gulf, occasionally wear a covering round their waist, somewhat similar to the representation given. VISIT THE^SHORE. 407 ' The land near the huts was turned up in search of roots, and close by were some large clubs. The thermometer fell in the night to 67°, producing the novel though pleasant sensation of cold, ¦ July 27. — Although apparently we could trace the land, near the head of the opening or bay, still the great set of tide in that direction, left hopes of its being the mouth of a river. We have already alluded to the difficulty of detecting the mouth of Australian streams, and the doubts thus engendered occasioned the greater anxiety. Im patient to learn the truth, Mr, Fitzmaurice was despatched to examine the head of the bay, whilst the ship was raoved towards it, anchoring again one mile N, W. from a very remarkable patch of low red cliffs, (which from startling circumstances, here after to be related, were called Escape Cliffs,) and only two cables length distant from the coral ledge, by which this and the shores around were fronted. Here another party visited the shore, and those whose occupation did not render their presence necessary near the water, strolled into the country, penetrating about four or five miles inland, but they were rewarded by the sight of no novelty, or even variety in the scenery, beyond what was presented to our view on the visit to Cape Hotham, which it will readily be allowed was little enough. Indeed it will in general be found, that in Australia, a change of formation is necessary to produce any of 408 DISCOVERY OF ADELAIDE RIVER. the scenery, which otherwise exhibits a most mono tonous sameness, A coarse kind of ironstone gravel was, (if I may use the term) scattered over the face of the coun try ; some of it had a glazed appearance on the surface, being hollow within, and about the size of a musket ball. Properly speaking they are com posed of a ferruginous sandstone, but they have been already more fully alluded to when first met with at Point Cunningham, near King's Sound, on the N.W, coast. The general formation is the sarae as at Cape Hotham, itself almost identical with the rocks at Port Essington. A few traces of sraall kangaroos were seen ; but not a bird or any other living thing two miles from the beach. This peculiarity the reader will remember was also noticed in the neighbourhood of King's Sound. On returning to the ship we found that Mr. Fitzmaurice had arrived, bringing the expected, and very gratifying intelligence, that a large river with two branches, running S.E. and S., with a depth of four fathoms, emptied itself into the head of the bay. The joy a discovery of this nature imparts to the explorer, when examining a country so proverbially destitute of rivers as Australia, is much raore easily iraagined than described. It formed a species of oasis amid the ordinary routine of surveying, rousing our energies, and giving uni versal delight. The castle builders were irarae diately at work, with expectations beyond the pale EXPLORING PARTY, 409 of reason. An exploring party, however, was at once forraed, consisting of Captain Wickhara, Lieut. Eraery, and Mr. Helpraan, who — the next day , being Sunday — did not leave before the raorning of the 29th, with two boats and four days' provisions. Many were the anxious and envious looks bestowed on the party as they left the ship on the deeply interesting service of exploring the new river. So strong and native is man's desire for the unknown, that his feelings are never more tried than when on the brink of a discovery, while those who are in presence of the novelty, and cannot enjoy the satis faction of tasting that pleasure, must ever experience somewhat acute emotions of regret. There was no difficulty in finding a name for a river which fell into Clarence Strait ; it was at once, therefore, honoured with that of Adelaide, after her most gracious Majesty the Queen Dow ager. The bay that receives its waters was called after Vice-Admiral Sir Charles Adara, The remaining part of the south side of Clarence Strait, together with the islands in the western entrance of it, gave ample, though not such interesting eraployraent as the exploration of the Adelaide, to those who were left behind. Several unsuccessful hauls were raade with the seine, fish in Adara Bay being very scarce. Near Escape Cliffs I met a small faraily of natives, consisting of an elderly raan, his wife, and four children ; by degrees, advancing alone, I contrived 410 ]*}ATIVE FAMILY. to get near enough to make the woman a present of a handkerchief, in return for which she gave rae a large leaf of the cabbage palra, that was slung across her back. I at length drew all the faraily around me, the eldest child, a youth of about 15, being the most tiraid. He had a small piece of wood two feet long, sticking through the cartilage of his nose. His teeth and those of the other children were quite perfect, but in the father and mother two of the upper front ones were gone, as we before noticed was the case with the natives at Port Essington, where this ceremony is performed after marriage. The hair of these people was neither curly nor straight, but what I have before called crisp, being of that wavy nature soraetiraes noticed in Europeans. They had with thera three sraall sized dogs of a light brown colour, of which they appeared very fond, and I could not induce thera to part with thera. The old raan's spear was not barbed, and the wamara or throwing stick of the same long narrow shape as at Port Essington, The woman had also the sarae bottle-shaped basket slung over her neck, as before remarked, and containing white and red earths for painting their bodies. These people exhibited raore curiosity than I had before noticed in the Aborigines, as I was able to induce thera to visit the whale boat that was on shore close by. Here, as in other places, the size CURIOSITY AND FEAR, 411 of the oars first astonished thera, and next the largeness of the boat itself. The exclaraations of surprise given vent to by the old man as he gazed on the workmanship of his civilized brethren, were arausing ; suddenly a loud shout would burst frora his lips, and then a low whistle. I watched the rapid change of countenance in this wild savage with interest ; all his raotions were full of raatter for observation. The mixed curiosity and dread depicted in his dusky face, the feeling of secret alarra at this first rencontre with a white man intruding in his native wilds, which he raust have experienced, added rauch to the zest of the scene. I, however, at length alraost persuaded the old man to accorapany rae on board ; he even put one foot in the boat for the purpose, when seeing the depth of the interior, he recoiled with a slight shudder, as if frora iraraersion in cold water. He was now overwhelraed by the woman and elder child with entreaties not to take such a rash step, and their rude eloquence succeeded. It was arausing to see the struggle between fear and curiosity plainly depicted in the raan's face, as he stood with one foot on the boat, and the other on the shore, hearkening but too credulously to the picture of danger, forcibly drawn by his friends, while curiosity, with almost equal strength, was urofing him to dare the perils of the white man's boat, A desire to be better acquainted with the straingers who had corae to the shores of his native 412 ATTEMPT TO ENTICE NATIVES ON BOARD. land in a large bird — such being their strange idea of a ship, the sails forming the wings — no doubt raaterially influenced hira ; but the eloquence of his relatives prevailed over all ; and this interesting interview terminated by our leaving the shore with out our sable friend, who, however, promised to visit the ship in an old bark canoe, about 20 feet long, that was lying on the beach near at hand. This promise was faithfully kept, for the same evening a canoe was seen paddling off, containing two young natives in addition to the old man. They stopped at some distance frora the ship, moving round to view her on all sides. Fearing at last that their courage had failed, and that they would not come on board, the dingy, our sraallest boat, was sent towards them, there being only a boy besides rayself in it. I had hoped that thus they would not be fright ened, but they instantly began to move towards the shore, and it required some manoeuvring to get near thera ; succeeding at length, however, I found my acquaintance of the morning anxious to go to the ship, a measure the other two did not at all approve of, as they kept edging away towards the land, whilst I gave the old man the presents I had brought him. At one tirae the dingy got between the canoe and the shore, when instantly a gleam of terror flashed across the faces of the young men. One of thera was a large square-headed fellow of ferocious aspect, whose countenance was lit up by NARROW ESCAPE OF MR. FITZMAURICE, 413 a look of fierce revenge, as the canoe raade towards the land, after I had ceased ray endeavours to entice them on board. Whatever these people raay have iraagined to be our motive in wishing them to visit the ship, I little thought that my pressing thera would have so nearly led to fatal results. I shall proceed to explain this remark by relating the startling cir cumstances frora which Escape Cliffs received their name. A few days after my interview in the dingy with the natives, Mr. Fitzmaurice went ashore to com pare the compasses. Frora the quantity of iron contained in the rocks, it was necessary to select a spot free frora their influence, A sandy beach at the ^foot of Escape Cliffs was accordingly chosen. The observations had been coraraenced, and were about half completed, when on the summit of the cliffs, which rose about twenty feet above their heads, suddenly appeared a large party of natives with poised and quivering spears, as if about imme diately to deliver them. Stamping on the ground, and shaking their heads to and fro, they threw put their long shaggy locks in a circle, whilst their glaring eyes flashed with fury as they charaped and spit out the ends of their long beards,* They were evidently in earnest, and bent on raischief. It was, therefore, not a little surprising to behold * A custom with Australian natives when in a state of violent excitement. 414 DANCING FOR LIFE. this paroxysm of rage evaporate before the happy presence of mind displayed by Mr. Fitzmaurice, in iraraediately beginning to dance and shout, though in momentary expectation of being pierced by a dozen spears. In this he was imitated by Mr. Keys, who was assisting in the observations, and who at the moment was a little distance off, and might have escaped. Without, however, thinking of himself, he very nobly joined his companion in amusing the natives ; and they succeeded in divert ing thera frora their evident evil designs, utitil a boat landing in a bay near drew off their attention. The foreraost of this party was recognised to be the ill-looking fellow, who left me in the canoe with a revengeful scowl upon his face, Messrs. Fitzmaurice and Keys had fire-arms lying on the ground within reach of their hands ; the instant, however, they ceased dancing, and atterapted to touch thera, a dozen spears were pointed at their breasts. Their lives hung upon a thread, and their escape raust be regarded as truly wonderful, and only to be attributed to the happy readiness with which they adapted themselves to the perils of their situation. This was the last we saw of the natives in Adara Bay, and the meeting is likely to be long reraerabered by sorae, and not without pleasant recollections ; for although, at the tirae, it was justly looked upon as a very serious affair, it afterwards proved a great source of rairth. No one could recall to raind, without laughing, the RETURN OF THE BOATS. 415 ludicrous figure necessarily cut by our ship-mates, when to amuse the natives, they figured on the light fantastic toe ; and the readers, who look at the plate in the frontispiece representing this really serious affair,* will behold two men literally dancing for their lives. August 2. — This morning the boats returned ; they had gone up the Adelaide in a general southerly direction, nearly 80 railes : the windings of the river, which were very great in sorae places, forming the shape of the letter S. It becarae at this dis tance very narrow, and was divided into two branches, one taking a southerly direction, the other an easterly ; the latter was too narrow for the boat's oars, while the former was blocked up by fallen trees lying across it. As in addition to the difficulties just mentioned, only one day's provision reraained in the boats, the further exploration of the Adelaide was necessarily, though reluctantly, abaur doned. For thirty miles of the upper part of the river the water was fresh ; while the banks, except^ ing near the point of separation, were low, being not raore than five feet above the present level of the river, a circumstance very favourable for irri gation, and the cultivation of rice. Fifteen miles from the raouth they were fringed by the growth of mangroves ; and higher up raany of the points were thickly wooded, while on either side stretched * See frontispiece. 416 BANKS OF THE ADELAIDE. a vast extent of prairie country, dotted here and there with islands of tiraber, which served to break the native monotony of the scene. Somewhat less than half way up, rose on both banks a thick jungle of bamboo, which, in places where the water was always fresh, attained the gigantic height of from 60 to 80 feet. Between 20 and 70 miles from the mouth the soil is a good light coloured mould ; above this, coraraencing where the bank of the river is raarked by a coarse red gritty sandstone projection, the aspect of the country changes from that of low plains to a slightly wooded and gently undulating surface, in some places stony. This character continued to the furthest point reached in the boats, in lat. 12° 5/ S,, and long, 131° 19' E. When they had penetrated thus far into the new lands of Australia, the explorers returned, having experienced those sensations of delightful excite ment, to which we have before alluded, and which naturally called forth strong emotions of regret in those who were denied a participation in the feverish enjoyraent of discovery. From the highest tree at Captain Wickhara's fur thest point, the appearance of the country was, as far as the eye could reach, one wearisome level, broken to the southward, at a distance of ten miles, by a rocky mound about 150 feet high. The river, which for some distance had not been fifty yards wide, with a rocky bed in places, and banks from six to twenty feet high, was subject at this point to a tidal change of level of about three feet, but there was no per- UPPER PART OF THE RIVER. 417 ceptible stream, and the water which a few miles lower down had been muddy, was here quite clear. Small baraboos and other drift were observed in the branches of the trees eight or ten feet above the water, shewing the height which the river attains at sorae seasons of the year. By the hol lows on raany of the plains, water appeared to have lain some time, and doubtless parts of this low land were periodically overflowed. On the point dividing the upper branches of the river some coarse sand was washed up, which on examination was found to be of a granitic character, clearly shewing the priraary forraation of the country through which the Adelaide flowed. The only rocks noticed in the parts traversed by the boats were, as I have before said, of red porous sandstone. The sraoke of several large flres was observed up the country, but none of the natives were seen. Towards the upper part of the river they noticed a strange bird, very rauch like a guinea fowl in size and raanner of running along the ground The colour was speckled white and brown. This, doubtless, frora Mr. Bynoe's descrip tion of one he wounded on the coast in the neigh bourhood of the Adelaide, must have been the Leipoa ocellata of Gould, one of the mound or tumuli-building birds, first seen in Western Aus tralia by Mr, George Moore, and afterwards on the North-west coast, and in South Australia by Captain Grey. / Although known to range over a large VOL. I, 2 E 418 "MONKEY BIRDS, j> expanse of the continent, this was the first time it was discovered in Northern Australia, In the reaches where the bamboo grew, flights of large varapires (reserabling the Pteropus rubri- collis of Geoff.) were met with : they kept con tinually flying to and fro close over the boats as they passed up, making a screeching disagreeable noise, which, however, was far less unpleasant than the mildewy odour with which they filled the air, calling to mind the exclamation placed by our imraortal bard in the mouth of Trinculo. The heavy flap of the leathern wings of these raonkey birds, as the men called them, was singular, while soraetiraes a flight would darken the verdure of a bamboo, which, yielding to their weight, bent low, as if before a passing gust of wind. To fix them selves appeared always a difficult, and was certainly a noisy operation, each apparently striving to alight upon the same spot. They first cling to the bam boo by means of the long claw, or hook attached to the outer edge of the wing, and then gradually settle themselves. The river swarmed with alligators. Fish also abounded ; and in the salt water, a kind commonly known in the river Plate by the name of Cat-fish, is plentiful. One that we caught was of the enor mous weight of twenty pounds. A large kind of dark breara of excellent flavour was taken in fresh water. Many of the reaches also swarmed with wild fowl, consisting alraost wholly of ducks, which, WOOD DUCKS. 419 from a habit of perching on the trees, have received the name of wood ducks. They were very different and far superior in plumage to those found on the south-eastern parts of, the continent, and as they have not yet been numbered among the Australian birds so vividly described by Mr. Gould, we may venture to be somewhat rainute in describing thera. They are inferior in size to the common European wild duck, but are raarked in much the sarae manner on the breast. The back is a dark brown, while the wings, still darker, are slightly bronzed at the tips. Their singularly long legs are of a pale flesh colour, while the web on the foot is very rauch arched near the toes, giving greater pliability to the foot and a power of grasping, which enables thera to perch on trees. The head and bill, the latter of a pale ash colour, are both large. When on the wing they raake a peculiar though pleasing whist ling sound, that can be heard at a great distance,* and which changes as they alight, into a sort of chatter. Their perching on trees is performed in a very clumsy raanner, swinging and pitching to and fro. We subsequently often found thera on the rivers on the North coast, but not within some miles of their mouths or near their upper waters, * Mr. Byre has since informed me that there is a whistling duck, something similar, on the Murray River, but is not aware that it has the peculiar habit of perching on trees. 2 E 2 420 EXPLORATION OF THE from which it would appear that they inhabit cer tain reaches of the rivers only : we never found thera in swaraps. The farthest south they were after wards liiet with, was on the Albert River in the Gulf of Carpentaria, in lat, 18° S,, which gives them a range of six and a half degrees of latitude over the northern part of the continent. Their nests never came under our notice, and consequently we are not aware either of the size or colour of their eggs ; neither did we see any young birds during the period of our observation, ranging frora July to Noveraber only,* August 4, — The southern arm of the Adelaide River, and about fifteen railes near the mouth of the other branch, still remaining to be explored, I started on this interesting service the day of the return of Captain Wickhara, August 4th, We soon found that the one we ascended promised nothing, from there being no tidal stream of any consequence ; still we hoped to trace its rej unction with the main branch, but after proceeding in a general S. by W, direction five miles, and E, S, E, the sarae distance, it became so narrow that the mangroves on each side entirely blocked up the passage, and stopped the boat's progress. I here again felt the inconvenience of our not being furnished with one of the pendulum * Mr. Gould, who had previously described this bird, (Lepto- tarsis Eytoni,) being desirous of figuring it in his splendid work,' has been furnished with this account. SOUTHERN BRANCH OF THE ADELAIDE. 421 horizons, invented by Captain Becher, R,N,* It being high water, and as the shore was lined with an impenetrable growth of mangroves, we were unable to land. In vain did I try, by cutting down sorae of thera, to find a rest for the artificial horizon on one of the sturaps ; they were so connected with each other beneath the water, by a perfect net work of roots, that although several of the surround ing trees were felled, a treraulous raotion was still conveyed from a distance, and I consequently lost the observation for latitude. The salt water arra of the Adelaide we found had another branch, which took us eight railes in a S. W. direction, terminating like the other, and at low water being a mere ditch. There was nothin