Yale University Library 39002015461735 MARKING 72?e SAINTA FE TRAIL YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 1938 a Mrs. George Thacher Guernsey, State Regent. The Story of the Marking OF THE Santa Fe Trail BY THE Daughters of the American Revolution in Kansas AND THE State of Kansas MRS. T. A. CORDRY Historian, Kansas D. A. R. CRANE & COMPANY, PRINTERS TOPEKA, KANSAS 1915 Copyrighted, 1915, by- the Kansas Daughters of the American Revolution. The Story of the Marking OP THE Santa Fe Trail INDEX. Page. Preface 11 Chapter I. The Realization of a Dream 13 Chapter II. The Story of the Santa Fe Trail Marking in Kansas 18 Chapter III. Memorial to Mrs. Fannie Geiger Thompson .. . 26 Chapter IV. Appropriation from the Legislature 29 Chapter V. Tracing the Route of the Trail 39 Chapter VI. "Trail Day' 49 Chapter VII. Bronze Plate, and Prizes 55 Chapter VIII. Marker Selected 62 Chapter IX. Contract Awarded 72 Chapter X. Some Interesting Letters 77 Chapter XL Placing the Markers 85 Chapter XII. The End in Sight 98 Chapter XIII. History Enacted where the Markers now Stand, 102 Chapter XIV. Secretary Martin's Report 134 Chapter XV. The Saving of Old Pawnee Rock 145 Complete List of Markers 161 [7] ILLUSTRATIONS. Page. Sarah Elizabeth Mitchell Guernsey (Mrs. George Thacher), State Regent, 1909-19 — Frontispiece Fannie Geiger Thompson (Mrs. A. H.), State Regent, 1901-1903, 14 Emma Hills Stanley (Mrs. William Eugene), State Regent, 1903- 1907 22 Isabelle Cone Harvey (Mrs. A. M.), State Vice-Regent, 1905- 1907 30 Lillian Popenoe Hall (Mrs. Clarence), State Treasurer, 1903- 1909 50 Memorial Tablet erected by Topeka Chapter, in Memorial Hall, in Memory of Miss Zu Adams, First State Secretary, and State Registrar in 1908-1909 66 Miss Grace Meeker, State Secretary, 1904-1910 76 Marker Equidistant from Sterling and Lyons 86 Burlingame Marker, in memory of Mrs. Thompson 90 Baldwin City Marker, erected by Ottawa and Lawrence Chap ters 94 Lost Springs Marker, erected by the Wichita Chapter 96 Group of Markers 104 Council Grove Marker 110 Council Oak, Council Grove, Kansas 112 Marker at Fort Larned 122 Marker and Old Settlers at Dodge City 126 Point of Rocks and Old Trail 132 Last House on Trail in Western Kansas, — an old-timer 142 Allie Peckham Cordry (Mrs. T. A.), State Historian, 1910-19—, 150 Pawnee Rock Monument 156 Map of Santa Fe Trail facing page 161 [9] PREFACE. When the marking of the old Santa F6 Trail was first suggested to the Daughters at the State Confer ence in Ottawa in 1902, no one had very much idea of the great undertaking it would prove to be. Five years later, Mrs. W. E. Stanley, State Regent, announced the completion of the marking of the trail with ninety-six markers. This was at the State Con ference in Leavenworth. Mrs. A. H. Horton, who had been appointed as a committee of one to find some one to write the story of the marking of the trail, reported that she could find no one willing to write and issue the pamphlet, so the subject was dropped. When Mrs. George Thacher Guernsey, of Independ ence, was elected State Regent in 1908 and confirmed in 1909, she was not long in seeing the need of a state historian, as the Daughters in Kansas had done many things worthy of record. At the next Conference, held in Topeka, in 1909, Mrs. C. W. Bitting called attention to the fact that at the next State meeting an amend ment to the by-laws, creating the office of Historian, would be submitted. In Lawrence the next year, in [H] 12 PREFACE 1910, the amendment passed, and Mrs. T. A. Cordry, of Parsons, was elected to the office of State Historian. With seventeen years' history, from 1894 to 1911, gathered from old reports, letters, and records, the task was a long, and at times a difficult one. The Historian compiled the story of the marking of the old Santa Fe Trail separately, thinking that it might be published some day. Parts of the story are gleaned from the letters of the old settlers to Mrs. Stanley and Miss Meeker, and every bit of it is true and authentic. The letters and reports are in the His torian's box now. In placing this in book form, we hope to keep the memory of the old Trail alive, so that our children need never inquire, "Where is it?" Mrs. T. A. Cordry, State Historian, Kansas Daughters of the American Revolution. Marking the Santa Fe Trail CHAPTER I. THE realization of a dream. Less than ten years ago, the old Santa Fe Trail was but a memory. It was something to be studied about as history that is past and gone — and the wonderful tales written by Colonel Henry Inman and others were interesting reading. But if asked to locate the Trail, very few could do so, and would probably give the an swer, "Oh, it is out west where the Indians were." And so the work of the Daughters of the American Revolution, in Kansas, in restoring the actual route of the Trail through Kansas by the aid of maps and the knowledge of the early settlers, wrenched back from oblivion the famous old highway, and erected markers, not only to point the way of the Trail, but as a memo rial of thousands of sturdy pioneers and soldiers who lost their lives when the way was forged across prairies and desert sands, the home of the Indians. One of the tenets of the National society of the D. A. R. is, "To perpetuate the memory of the spirit of the men and women who achieved American Inde pendence, by the acquisition and protection of historical spots, and the erection of monuments." No incident [13J Fannie Geiger Thompson (Mrs. A. H.). REALIZATION OF A DREAM 15 of the Revolution occurred on Kansas soil, and the Daughters here puzzled over "What can we do to show our patriotism?" The chapters (four in number then) had done some local work, and had helped in a modest way in the erection of the Zebulon Pike Mon ument, in Republic county, but it was left for Mrs. Fannie Geiger Thompson, State Regent, to suggest the marking of the Old Trail through Kansas, which, as she said, was fast becoming obliterated. It was at the State Conference held in Ottawa, No vember 5th, 1902, that Mrs. Thompson in her annual address suggested the marking of the Old Santa Fe Trail. And by the way, it was at this conference also, that it was voted to request the State Superintendent of Public Instruction to place Kansas History in our public schools. Before another Conference convened, the hand of death took Mrs. Thompson to a Heavenly home. She was greatly mourned, for all who knew her missed her. What plans she had for the marking of the Trail were never known. At the next conference, held in Topeka in the fall of 1903, instead of giving up the project of marking the old Trail because their leader was gone, the Daughters regarded the Trail-marking as a sacred legacy left by Mrs. Thompson, and voted to go to work at once, and the first Santa Fe Trail Com mittee was appointed to consult with the State His torical Society. The dream of Mrs. Thompson is realized, and the Old Santa Fe Trail has become a definite way across 16 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL the States of Missouri, Kansas, Colorado, and New Mexico, and only willful ignorance is an excuse for not knowing where the old Santa Fe Trail is. In loving memory of early travelers of the Trail, and their dearly loved State Regent, Mrs. Thompson, the Kansas Daughters worked long and hard. Knot after knot of doubt as to location was untied, handicapped with money problems, until now, ninety-six markers guide the travelers over the way from Kansas City on the east to the Colorado line on the southwest. The Topeka Chapter, of which Mrs. Thompson was a member, erected a special marker in the main street of Burlingame, which is exactly on the Old Trail, in memory of Mrs. Thompson. A prominent newspaper man and politician after reading the inscription on the marker, which is, "Santa Fe Trail, 1822-1872. Marked by the Daughters of the American Revolution and the State of Kansas," remarked, "I don't see why the D. A. R. Society is named first." Many friends arose with the ready an swer, "Why, man, the State of Kansas has had this Trail for nearly fifty years, and lost it, — the Daughters of the American Revolution in Kansas found it." The Kansas Daughters, the first to mark the old Trail, have had the pleasure of seeing the Daughters of Missouri, Colorado and New Mexico follow their example with enthusiasm. To the Daughters, to the State Historical Society of Kansas, to the old settlers along the Trail and in other REALIZATION OF A DREAM 17 States, to former travelers of the Trail, the credit is due that one may now ride in an auto along the most of the old highway over which a noble army of martyrs forged the way for the civilization, homes, and happi ness, in the great West today. 18 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL CHAPTER II. THE STORY OF THE SANTA FE TRAIL-MARKING IN KANSAS. Probably nothing in the history of Kansas will be remembered and discussed with more enduring interest than the early highway over which the commerce of the Plains was carried on for more than a generation before the whistle of a locomotive had broken the stillness of the prairies, which rise in an ever-increasing ascent from the Missouri river to the southwest border of the State, more than four hundred miles away. This great overland route was known as the Santa Fe Trail. In the early part of the last century, the line of settlement of Western immigration had reached the Missouri river, and at this time there had grown up a considerable trade at and about Santa Fe, New Mexico, which at tracted the attention of the Western pioneer ; but be tween these points was a stretch of 775 miles over tree less and trackless prairies, nearly five hundred miles of which was in Kansas, infested with tribes of hostile Indians. The early pioneers were sturdy and strong, braving the terrors of the course for the sake of carry ing civilization through the West. In the beginning of the route to Santa Fe, it was largely a matter of private daring and enterprise. In 1824, the trade had increased to such an extent that the Government took hold of the matter in a substantial way. While St. Louis was the chief outfitting point for the Southwest THE STORY 19 trade, the route itself began near the Missouri river, at Franklin, Missouri, and entered Kansas through John son county, and for the first one hundred and fifty miles passed through a well-watered prairie country comparatively free from Indian depredations. This portion of the route ended at Council Grove, on the Neosho river, where caravans were usually reorganized so that a considerable company might pursue the route together, and thus be the means of protection against Indians. The name of Council Grove was given to this place from the fact that the Santa F6 Road Com mission and Government representatives in 1825 here met the Osage Indians in council and secured their agreement to the unmolested passage of the traders through their country. Leaving Council Grove, the Trail continued in a southwesterly direction, striking the Arkansas river at the great bend. Here at the mouth of Walnut creek was most fertile ground, claimed by all of the tribes for hunting and grazing. The Trail followed the river to Cimarron, crossing near old Fort Dodge, and the present site of Dodge City. Here it divided, one branch crossing the river and going in a southwesterly direction to Las Vegas, N. M., the other going by a more circuitous route along the river to " Bent's Fort " and then in a southerly direction, uniting with that near Las Vegas. This was generally called the Cim arron route. This latter was full of hardships, and notably scarcity of water. At the point where the Walnut empties into the Arkansas, the Trail passed al- 20 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL most under the shadow of Pawnee Rock. This famous landmark, which rose abruptly from the plain, afforded both outlook and fortress. Now in these days of peace, the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railway passes in some places over this iden tical trail, and the travelers now can sit in the coaches and look out on handsome homes and fine farms, with miles and miles of improved land. Mrs. Fannie G. Thompson (Mrs. A. H.), of Topeka, who, as has already been stated, was the first to suggest the marking of the Trail, was our State Regent at the time of the meeting of the Fourth State Conference, held in Ottawa, November 5th, 1902. In her report, she told that it was a dear wish of hers that the old Trail from St. Louis to Santa Fe, New Mexico, should be suitably outlined and marked before all trace of its direction should be lost to coming generations. How happy she would be, if she could see it at this date (1912) not only marked by the Daughters of the Amer ican Revolution, but being made part of the ocean-to- ocean highway! "Behold how great a matter" a little heart-interest created. Kansas was the first State to mark the old highways, and from this grew the great idea of an ocean-to-ocean road, the use of automobiles creating the necessity for good roads. The Fourth Conference asked Mrs. Thompson to bring the matter before the State Historical Society, and request its help in getting a true map of the old Trail in Kansas, and also ask its aid in marking the most important places. The Daughters felt that they THE STORY 21 might have nine markers, or a few more, but they little dreamed that their success would give them ninety-six handsome markers across the State. Mrs. Thompson did consult with the Historical Society, but her death occurred within the year, and Mrs. W. E. Stanley, as State Regent, took up the work and carried it to a most successful finish. The Fifth Conference met October 16th and 17th, 1903, in Topeka, where the Regent, Mrs. Stanley, pre sided. In her annual opening address, in speaking of Mrs. Thompson, Mrs. Stanley suggested that as the marking of the Santa Fe Trail was one of Mrs. Thomp son's cherished desires, the Daughters should, in the coming year, make this plan a reality. On motion of Mrs. Clara B. McGuire (Mrs. C. A.), of Topeka, the chair was asked to appoint a committee to take up the work of marking the old Trail, and to work with a committee from the State Historical So ciety. The following committee was appointed : Topeka, Miss Zu Adams and Mrs. Clara McGuire. Ottawa, Miss Jennie Brooks, Miss Grace Meeker, and Miss Laura Sheldon (now Mrs. William Penny). Lawrence, Mrs. C. C. Seewir, Mrs. John G. Haskell, and Mrs. Paul R. Brooks. Wichita, Miss Elizabeth E. Dewey, Mrs. E. B. Rose, and Mrs. S. D. Ashbaugh. At the next Conference, the sixth, held in Lawrence, October 20th, 1904, the committee, through Miss Zu Adams, reported little or no progress, owing to the dif ficulty in getting a true map. Mrs. William Eugene Stanley. THE STORY 23 Mrs. Clarence Hall was appointed on Trail Commit tee from Lawrence in place of Mrs. John G. Haskell, who had resigned from the society. The State Historical Committee consisted of the fol lowing persons : Mrs. Caroline (Noble L.) Prentis, To peka ; Professor Frank H. Hodder, of Lawrence ; the Hon. J. D. Milliken, of McPherson; the Hon. J. R. Mead, of Wichita; and the Hon. R. M. Wright, of Fort Dodge. Miss Adams reported that the duties of Mrs. Prentis, chairman of the Historical Committee, as hostess of the Kansas Building at the St. Louis Fair, had prevented her from attending to this matter. The Historical So ciety had secured, besides the map of the Trail made by the Government in 1825-27, the recently made map of the TJ. S. Government, topographic maps, which cover the route, and upon which it was supposed the Trail could be drawn with sufficient minuteness to en able persons on the ground to find the Trail with com parative ease. The cost of the drawing of these maps had not been ascertained. "However," said Miss Adams, "it must be borne in mind that the old settler will be the best help, — the intelligent old settler, who will not confuse the ancient Trail with some road of the Fifties. The women of Lawrence would have little trouble in tracing the Trail through their county, and possibly members of the Ottawa Chapter, who lived too far south to claim this highway for their county, would help. We ought," continued Miss Adams, "to make a beginning somewhere, and I am sure our com- 24 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL mittee can find old settlers sufficiently enthusiastic to guide the way, if we can get up a hunting party." Under date of October 18th, 1904, the following letter from Mr. Roy Marsh, of Topeka, to the State Regent, Mrs. Stanley, was written: "A few days since, Miss Zu Adams, through Mr. Root, requested me to submit and offer to you in the matter of tracing the Santa Fe Trail upon certain topographic maps covering the counties of Kansas through which the Trail passed. I have examined the data shown me by Mr. Root, and having put in considerable time studying upon the Santa Fe Trail, I believe I could do the work so as to be perfectly satisfactory to you. As to the price, I will say that on account of the work being for the D. A. R., I will make it as low as possible, dependent upon the time required, but not to exceed $10. I men tion this as a maximum, but I think I will be able to make it for less." This letter seemed to the Confer ence something at last tangible, and it voted to have the map made at once. On November 4th, 1904, Miss Zu Adams writes Miss Grace Meeker, the State Secretary, as follows: "We think Mr. Marsh can do the map-tracing as well as anyone we can secure. It will hardly be possible to make it accurate, but he will have all of the maps in the office [State Historical Society's office] to draw from. Of course he ought to be on the ground, then the Daughters will have no seeking to do themselves. As I understand, you wish the entire route traced at once. We will give Mr. Marsh all the authorities we THE STORY 25 can find, and the Society will accept your commission to see the work through." The Daughters were very fortunate in having Miss Adams, Librarian of the State Historical Society, a Daughter, and a tireless and willing worker, for the Trail-marking. 26 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL CHAPTER III. MEMORIAL TO MRS. FANNIE GEIGER THOMPSON. " To write the history of a noble and useful woman, whose influence and work were always for the happiness of her associates and friends, is a task which should be undertaken Only by those who knew her most inti mately. The highest tribute that can be paid to Mrs. Thompson is that she represented the best and most exalted type of womanhood, and that her mission in life was to do good to all with whom she came in con tact. "Mrs. Fannie Geiger Thompson was born January 1st, 1857, at Martin's Ferry, Ohio, just opposite Wheel ing, West Virginia. Soon after her birth, her father moved with his family to Columbus, Ohio. They lived a short time in Louisville, Kentucky, during the war, Mr. Geiger being an army contractor for a time. In 1867, the family came to Topeka, Kansas, where they remained a year, and from there they went to Ells worth, then away out on the frontier. But the danger there to the family caused them to move back to To peka. Fannie Geiger attended school in the old Beth any College building at Ninth street and Topeka avenue, and also in the present building after its erec tion. She was married to Dr. Alton H. Thompson on December 9th, 1875. They had two children : Isabel, born 1880, and Wallace, born in 1883. Isabel died in MEMORIAL TO MRS. THOMPSON 27 1897, and from this great grief Mrs. Thompson never fully recovered, but with her sweet self-sacrificing spirit she took up the work nearest at hand, and in her posi tion as President of the Women's Clubs in Topeka she took an active part in the movement to decorate and furnish the public school-rooms, and through her en thusiasm much was accomplished in this direction. "At the time of her death, in Topeka, on February 17th, 1903, Mrs. Thompson was the State Regent of the Daughters of the American Revolution in Kansas. To this position she was elected at the annual confer ence held in Wichita in October, 1901. She was in tensely interested in all work of the Daughters of the American Revolution, both State and National, taking a lively interest in Memorial Continental Hall and seconding in every way the efforts of the National So ciety officers. Mrs. Thompson attended one Conti nental Congress in Washington, and her report was the feature of the Conference at Lawrence in 1899. It was her great desire that the chapters throughout the State should make a feature of their work the marking of historic sites. One of her last interests was the Old Santa Fe Trail, which she hoped might be well located some day and be marked by a line of monuments across the State ; and it was her enthusiasm and persistence that first awakened interest in the subject, not only in the Topeka Chapter but throughout the State. It was her hope that the Daughters of the American Rev olution might be instrumental in accomplishing this important historical work. Her untimely death pre- MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL vented her from doing more than outline the work. There will be a memorial tablet to Mrs. Thompson among the monuments along the Santa Fe Trail. As a loyal, patriotic, and active member of our organiza tion, Mrs. Thompson had no superior. Being the great-granddaughter of Lieutenant William Wallace, who was with Washington's army during that terrible winter at Valley Forge, she naturally inherited that intense love of country which made her conspicuous as a member of our organization. "All who knew her, and particularly the Kansas Daughters, hold in loving remembrance and hearty ap preciation the sweet nature, charming manner, ready mind, loving heart, and noble soul of Mrs. Thompson." Mrs. Luther Burns, Topeka. Mrs. Mary C. Hildreth, Newton. Mrs. E. D. Kimball, Wichita. Adopted at Wichita, November, 1905. Committee : APPROPRIATION FROM THE LEGISLATURE 29 CHAPTER IV. APPROPRIATION FROM LEGISLATURE. The first meeting of the Santa Fe Trail Committee was held in the State Historical Society's rooms at the State House, Topeka, December 29th, 1904. Four members were present. Miss Meeker gives the follow ing report of that meeting : " The maps now nearing completion were inspected, and no criticisms offered. Plans for the work were discussed, among them that of interesting the county superintendents in the counties along the Trail. It was also suggested that in the districts where the Trail passed, the school children might be sufficiently interested to undertake to help in the setting of the stones. It was thought advisable to consult the club women in towns along the Trail, and get their cooperation, if possible. Mr. Mead gave five dollars for postage to begin the work of correspondence. The most favorable plan for marking was that sug gested by Mr. Mead, — that stones be set in the high way close enough together to trace without difficulty the line of the old road, and avoiding fields likely to be cultivated. The stones to be of uniform size, set in the ground, and bearing an inscription sufficiently plain to make it impossible to mistake them. Various methods of collecting funds were talked of, but no especial plan outlined for further action of the whole committee. The following members of the committee were present : Isabelle Cone Harvey (Mrs. A. M.). APPROPRIATION FROM THE LEGISLATURE 31 Mrs. J. R. Mead, of Wichita, Mrs. Caroline Prentis, Miss Zu Adams, of Topeka, and Miss Grace Meeker, of Ottawa." Before the meeting of the State Legislature, it was suggested by Mrs. A. M. Harvey to the members of the committee, to ask for an appropriation of $1,000 for marking the Trail. By correspondence, the unani mous consent of the other members was gained, and the Legislature readily passed a bill appropriating $1,000 for the markers. In the spring, a meeting of the committee was called. By vote of the members, Mrs. Stanley, Regent, and therefore chairman ex officio, selected an executive committee from the whole committee, to meet in To peka, April 6th, 1905. Miss Meeker read this report at Wichita meeting in 1905 : "Of the five dollars given by Mr. Mead, three dollars were spent for postage, mostly on letters to county superintendents. Two dollars still on hand November 7th, 1905." She also said: "After the meeting in December, 1904, by correspondence the committee took action upon the plan of raising funds by asking the State Legislature to appropriate $1,000 for markers for the Trail. About fifty letters were sent out by the secretary to Senators and Representa tives who represented the territory crossed by the Trail." These were but supplementary to the heavy work done by the State Regent, the Topeka Chapter, and others who succeeded in getting the bill through. Mrs. Charles Piper, of Labette, one of the new mem- MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL bers of Hannah Jameson Chapter, Parsons, interested herself in the matter, and presented the case so success fully to Senator J. W. Connor, of Labette county, that he introduced the bill in the Senate. "According to instructions at the April meeting, the secretary prepared and sent out 105 circular letters to county superintendents throughout the State. Favor able replies have been received from twenty-five, and they are still coming in. One county superintendent on the western border of the State asks for information about the organization of the D. A. R., and application blanks have been sent her. The local committee at Ottawa has prepared a program for Trail Day, making thirty-two pages of typewritten manuscript, which, to gether with the circular letters to superintendents, were prepared by the business department of the Ot tawa University, through the courtesy of Professor Grant Crain, without cost to the Society of D. A. R. State Superintendent Dayhoff has shown the committee every courtesy and agrees to print the program in his paper, 'The Kansas Educator.' He has also consented to serve on the committee of awards, and will print notices of the plans for Trail Day in his paper. Every where those who have spoken to city or county super intendents have received courteous treatment and hearty indorsement of the plans. Some new names have been added to the Trail committee the past year : Mrs. L. C. Horst, of Newton; Mrs. Charles Piper, of Labette (Parsons Chapter) ; Mrs. A. M. Harvey and Mrs. A. H. Horton, of Topeka. Mrs. Prentis pre- APPROPRIATION FROM THE LEGISLATURE 33 sented the plan to the Second District club women, and Mrs. W. A. Johnston to the First District; Mrs. Cora G. Lewis, of Kinsley, spoke of the Trail-marking to the teachers of southwestern Kansas, on Thanks giving Day. Miss Brooks presented the matter to the teachers who met in Garnett." On page 98 (chapter 65) of the Session Laws of the State Legislature is the law appropriating $1,000 to the Daughters of the American Revolution in Kansas to aid in marking the old Santa Fe Trail across the State. This bill (House Bill No. 486) was introduced by Mr. J. T. Pringle, Representative from Osage county, and reads as follows : AN ACT Making appropriation to pay the cost of marking the Santa Fe" Trail in the State of Kansas, and providing a penalty for the defacement of such mark. Be it enacted by the Legislature of the State of Kansas: Section 1. The sum of one thousand dollars, or so much thereof as may be necessary, is hereby appropriated out of any money in the State treasury not otherwise appropriated, for the purpose of procuring suitable monuments to mark the Santa Fe Trail in the State of Kansas through the following counties : Johnson, Douglas, Osage, Wabaunsee, Lyon, Morris, Dickinson, Marion, Rice, Barton, Pawnee, Edwards, Hodgeman, Ford, Gray, McPherson, Finney, Kearny, Hamilton, Haskell, Grant, Stevens, and Morton. Sec. 2. Said monuments shall be erected under the supervision of the Regent of the Daughters of the American Revolution in the State of Kansas, and the Secretary of the State Historical Society. Sec. 3. This appropriation shall be paid out only upon vouchers duly verified by the Regent and Secretary aforesaid, when approved and allowed by the Executive Council of the State. Sec. 4. The Auditor of the State is hereby authorized to draw warrants on the Treasurer of the State for the several sums and pur- 34 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL poses provided by this act, when verified, approved and allowed as herein provided. Sec. 5. Any person who shall destroy, deface, remove, or injure the aforesaid monuments shall be deemed guilty of a misdemeanor, and upon conviction thereof shall be punished by a fine of not less than five nor more than $100, or by imprisonment in the county jail for a period of not less than thirty nor more than ninety days, or both such fine and imprisonment, at the discretion of the justice. Sec. 6. This act shall take effect and be in force from and after its publication in the official State paper. The committee in charge directly of the Santa Fe Trail appropriation consisted of Mrs. A. M. Harvey, chairman, Mrs. Luther Burns, and Mrs. A. H. Hor ton, — all of the Topeka Chapter. The Regent of the State, Mrs. W. E. Stanley, was unable to be present at the committee meetings, but kept in touch with mem bers of committees at this time through correspondence, and had the written assurance from Representative Pringle that he would father the bill. The chapters all over the State wrote to their Sen ators and Representatives, asking the support of the bill. Miss Zu Adams and Mrs. Eugene F. Ware were other Daughters in Topeka to do special work for the bill, which was drawn up under the personal supervi sion of Governor Stanley. The following copy of a letter sent the chairman of the Ways and Means Com mittee will give a good idea of the plan on which the Daughters worked : February 3rd, 1905.— Dear Sir: The Daughters of the American Revolution of this State have caused to be introduced APPROPRIATION FROM THE LEGISLATURE 35 two bills in the State Legislature, in which they are deeply in terested. One, an act to prevent the desecration of the Ameri can Flag; the other, an act providing for an appropriation of one thousand dollars to assist in marking the route of the Santa F6 Trail. I presume there will be no objection to the first bill, but as the second calls for an appropriation, I thought it proper to write you. Kansas has few historical landmarks or places of historic interest. The most noted one is undoubtedly the Santa Fe Trail. The history of this Trail has been so well written by Major Inman, and is so familiar to the inhabitants of Kansas, that I think it unnecessary to explain further. There has been much discussion during the last few years on the subject of hav ing this Trail marked by the respective counties through which it passed, but where so many are interested in the work, as a rule no especial attention is paid to it ; and so, in this case, the project of having the different localities or counties through which the Trail ran, mark the same, has failed of any practical results. I noticed, however, in one of the papers, a few days ago, that Wyandotte county had undertaken the work of marking the Trail in that county by the erection of marble slabs. The Daughters do not contemplate anything so expensive, and the appropriation asked for would only assist in putting up substan tial stone or cement monuments. Even with this appropriation, the different localities would have to be interested in the comple tion of this work. I trust that your committee will look after the matter favorably, and recommend the very small appropria tion that is asked at this time. The Trail is now largely ob literated, and in many cases old residents would have to be de pended upon to ascertain its exact location, and this character of evidence is every year becoming more and more uncertain. The Daughters of the American Revolution in this State would very greatly appreciate anything your committee might do in the matter. (Signed) Mrs. W. E. Stanley, State Regent, D. A. R. Several prominent persons suggested to the Daugh ters that they should ask for more than $1,000, but 36 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL they felt that to receive this was better than being turned down for asking too large a sum. And then the Daughters would lose the most of the individual credit for the work, if the State gave the whole cost. The State Secretary, Miss Grace Meeker, wrote letters to all the Senators and Representatives along the Trail. The Legislative Committee, composed of Mrs. A. M. Harvey, Mrs. Luther Burns, and Mrs. A. H. Horton, reported to the State Conference in Wichita that fall (1905), through the chairman, Mrs. Harvey, as follows : "If Mrs. Horton were here, she might tell you some thing of the trials of a lobbyist, but I see by the ex pression on Mrs. Burns's face that she is resolved never to tell a living soul what she suffered while sacrificing herself for House Bill No. 486, known and beloved by the Kansas Daughters of the American Revolution as 'An Act making appropriation to pay the cost of marking the Santa Fe Trail in the State of Kansas, and providing a penalty for the defacement of such markers.' Unless I give you a history of the bill from its introduction to its passage, the report of the Legis lative committee might be summed up in the state ment that 'the bill was passed.' "When the State Committee to arrange for the marking of the Santa Fe Trail decided to ask the State for assistance, the legislative work naturally fell to the Topeka members of the Daughters of the American Revolution ; for a bill before the Legislature is like a naughty child, — it must be constantly watched, — once APPROPRIATION FROM THE LEGISLATURE 37 you turn your back on it, it is sure to be in mischief. Mrs. Luther Burns, Mrs. A. H. Horton and myself were appointed as this committee, and we are delighted to be able to report to this conference that our work terminated March 1st, 1905, in the final approval of the bill. "While to those not familiar with Legislative condi tions last winter, it may seem a mistake that we did not ask for a larger appropriation, yet it should not be a matter of regret that we did not do this, for we could hardly have selected a more inauspicious time to ask the State for an appropriation, however small, 'purely for sentiment,' — as we were told over and over again. "I am glad of the opportunity while making this report, of this committee, to mention to you some of the names of a few of the friends who assisted us. I want especially to call attention to the effectiveness of your letters to your members of the Legislature. Our committee considers this one of the strongest influences exerted in securing the passage of the bill ; and for the inception of this agency, and constant attention to its fulfillment, we must thank our good State Regent, Mrs. Stanley, and her strong right hand, our State Secretary, Miss Meeker. "Aside from this work of our own members, we are indebted to Mrs. Noble L. Prentis for enthusiastic help at all times ; to Mr. J. T. Pringle, for the introduction and oversight of the bill, in the House; to Mr. C. E. Hulett, member of the Legislature from Fort Scott, for assistance in the Ways and Means Committee of the 38 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL House at a time when the bill was in danger of being unfavorably reported; to Mr. James E. Larimer, sec retary of that committee; to Mr. John Francis; to Senator Connor, for work in the Senate ; Senator F. Dumont Smith; to members of the State Historical Society, and many members of both houses who were friends of the bill from its introduction. "In courtesy to these friends, as well as for the honor of our own organization, we should now see that the object of all this work — the marking of the Santa Fe Trail in the State of Kansas — is carried on with the enthusiasm and interest due an undertaking of such magnitude and importance. (Signed) Mrs. Luther Burns. Mrs. A. H. Horton. Mrs. A. M. Harvey." tracing the route 39 CHAPTER V. TRACING THE ROUTE OF THE OLD TRAIL. As soon as the fact that the Daughters were going to mark the Old Santa F4 Trail in Kansas was known, they received many letters telling of the route, from old settlers who had lived on the famous highway, or had traveled over it ; and even from out of the State came to both the Daughters and State Historical So ciety, suggestions for the route. The greatest diver sity of opinion was discovered, especially as to the route west of the great bend of the Arkansas river. The fact that the counties in western Kansas were very large when the last topographic map was made by the Government, and that they had since been divided, thus changing county and section lines, made the work all the harder. Mr. Roy Marsh, to whom the task of making a map of the Trail was given, was finally successful. A letter from Miss Adams to Mrs. Stanley, dated January 3rd, 1905, the week following the committee meeting in Topeka, at which only four were present, will be of in terest. "Dear Mrs. Stanley : Your telegram was received with regrets by the Santa Fe Trail Committee, both because of your absence and its cause. "Mr. Roy D. Marsh had left the Trail map with me 40 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL for the Committee's examination. It is completed as far as possible, with the tracing on one sheet of the topographic sheets, and the lettering of the variations of the routes to show whether the lines follow the sur vey of 1825, or the U. S. Survey of Kansas in the '60s. "I have now secured the lacking topographic map, and Mr. Marsh will complete the map as far as the topographic sheets are published by the Geological Survey, within a week. The map, as he has drawn it, does not include the Trail south of the Arkansas, except through Gray county ; because the topographic maps for that part of Kansas were not completed two months ago, and may not be for some time to come, but I have written again for them. Mr. Marsh can com plete his work by next week, and charges at the rate of fifteen cents an hour, amounting to $7.50. He says he has drawn off the remainder of the Trail rudely and will trace it on the topographic maps when they are published, and asks nothing additional. "Prof. Hodder, a member of the Historical Society's Santa Fe Trail Committee, carefully examined Mr. Marsh's work a month ago, considered his methods correct, and gave the map his indorsement. When Mr. Marsh has completed the lettering and the Kinsley sheets, I will ask him to make out his bill and send it to you. Mr. James R. Mead seemed to approve the map, though the fact that it was not lettered bothered him somewhat. "Mrs. Prentis, Mr. Mead, Miss Meeker and myself were the only members of our committee in town, and TRACING THE ROUTE 41 of course four out of a double committee of fifteen could take no formal action. "There are three big items in this undertaking : the tracing of the exact Trail through the counties ; the interesting of individuals to take the markers and put them in place ; and the securing of the markers. The first two items can be done by correspondence and per sonal appeals. The third will require money, and, to my mind, if they were supplied from one source would make the rest of the work easier. Mrs. Prentis thinks the Legislature could be interested to the extent of $1,000. "I have just inquired of a gentleman who is interested in the manufacture of cement building-stone, for the probable cost of a marker with the inscription cast in. He says a stone eight by four inches and three feet long, with the inscription 'S. F. T. 1905,' would cost in the neighborhood of fifty cents. It is about the same weight as sandstone or limestone, and much more durable, as a surface could be made nearly as smooth as glass, and the proportion of cement would be much greater than that used in the quality made for building-stone. I presume a few more letters in the inscription might not add much to the price. If we put such markers from one to two miles apart, and some of the people preferred to put a special marker of their own making, this $1,000 would cover, at fifty cents each, two hundred miles or more of the Trail. The Santa Fe Road could probably be induced to carry them. (Signed) Zu Adams." 42 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL The maps were finally accepted, and the bill, $7.50, allowed for them, on March 24th, 1905. Trail Committee Meeting, April 6th, 1905. The next meeting of the Trail committee was called for April 6th by the Regent and chairman of the com mittee. The following is the report by Miss Meeker of the same : "State Historical Society Rooms, Topeka, Kan., April 6, 1905. "The Executive Committee of the Santa Fe Trail Committee and the State Historical Society met at the rooms of the Historical Society at half-past three o'clock, with Mrs. Stanley presiding. Miss Meeker acted as secretary by appointment of the chair. "On motion, it was decided that the markers to be placed on the Trail be made of cement building-stone, in size sixteen by sixteen inches. The shorter side to be eighteen inches high, the longer side twenty-eight inches, with upper edges rounded. On the sloping top an inscription is to be placed, containing the following information: 'Santa Fe Trail. 1822-1905. Erected by the Kansas Daughters of the American Revolution and the State of Kansas.' "Miss Adams and Mr. Milliken were appointed a committee to purchase as many markers as the $1,000 appropriation from the State will pay for, all details of construction to be left to them. A motion was also carried leaving the kind of lettering to be used in the inscription, to the decision of this committee. TRACING THE ROUTE 43 "By a motion suggested by Secretary Martin, it was found to be the unanimous desire of the committee to ask the Mayor and Council of such towns along the Trail as have streets formed from portions of the Trail, to change the names of these streets to 'The Santa Fe Trail.' This favor to be asked by the D. A. R. and the Historical Society. "Since the fund appropriated by the State is not enough to pay for all the markers, and their setting, it was decided, by motion, to ask the school children of the State to contribute a penny each toward the mark ing of the Trail. Also, another motion was carried, that the societies interested ask for one half-day of school year, to be set aside for patriotic exercises, in each school in the State, a part of the exercises to be essays on 'The Old Santa Fe Trail.' The essays being in competition for prizes offered by the two societies. Teachers in the different schools would be asked to send the best to the county superintendent, who would select the best for competition in the State. The com mittee on prizes and awards to arrange all details and decide upon the date of holding the exercises. The State Historical Society having kindly consented to give thirty dollars, from its membership fund, toward these prizes, the D. A. R. Committee, on motion, agreed to add thirty dollars more, thus making a prize fund of sixty dollars. "A motion was made and carried, that the State Superintendent of Public Instruction, Mr. I. L. Day- hoff, of Hutchinson, be asked to accept a place on the 44 MARKING the SANTA fe trail committee of prizes and awards. The chair appointed as the other members of this committee, Mrs. Noble L. Prentis and Mrs. A. H. Horton. The State Secre tary of the D. A. R., Miss Meeker, was instructed to prepare and send out circular letters to the county superintendents, asking their cooperation. "On motion, a committee was appointed to interview the Santa Fe Railway officials and ask for transporta tion of the material for the marking. This committee is composed of Mrs. W. E. Stanley, chairman, Mr. Mil liken, and Mrs. A. M. Harvey. The committee hopes the club women of the State will help in the towns along the way of the Trail, where more elaborate markers may be wanted. "The committee also expressed its gratitude for the ready response of the State through its Legislature. "Committee adjourned sine die." The report of Miss Meeker (given on page 31) which she read at the Conference that fall, shows how she followed her instructions and enlisted the help of all the county superintendents in the work for a Trail Day in the schools. This and the sending of reports of the committee's action to the other members not present, made much work for Miss Meeker, but her heart was so set on the suitable marking of this historic highway that she was not only faithful in a few things, but was always ready to do her share and help the others. The replies to the committee reports were very in- tracing the route 45 teresting. Mrs. Harriet Hildreth Horst, of Newton, answered at once. She had only one suggestion to make, and that was that the whole name "Santa Fe Trail" be put on the markers, and not the initials only, as some one had suggested. "Then," she said, "there would never be any doubt as to what they were there for." Mr. J. R. Mead, also absent from the meeting, sent his approval of all, and also said that the towns whose streets were on the old Trail were Burlingame, Wilmington, and Council Grove. The two large committees from the D. A. R. and Historical Society were so unwieldy as to having a quorum, that the State Regent, Mrs. Stanley, decided on an executive committee of three, — herself, Miss Meeker, and Mrs. A. M. Harvey of Topeka; and this was approved by the entire committee. The work was well planned by the first of May, and that was half the battle. Mrs. J. C. Mack of Newton, Mrs. Clarence Hall, State Treasurer D. A. R., and Mrs. C. C. Seewir of Lawrence, were the Press Committee, and theirs was a busy life for the rest of the year, in fact until after the final account of the Trail prizes. Mrs. Noble L. Prentis and Mrs. A. H. Horton, of Topeka, and Superintendent Dayhoff were the essay and prize awarding committee. Miss Zu Adams and Mr. Mil liken were the committee to purchase the markers, and Mrs. Stanley, Mrs. Harvey and Mr. Milliken were the committee to interview the Santa Fe Railway officials. When the Conference met that fall, 1905, at Wichita, the plans were moving along so nicely that all were 46 MARKING the SANTA fe trail very much encouraged. Notice of a meeting of the Trail Committee had been sent to all the members, and this was held in the parlors of the Hamilton Hotel during the conference. Those present were : Mrs. W. E. Stanley, chairman ; Miss Grace Meeker, secretary ; Mrs. Clarence Hall, Mrs. A. M. Harvey, Miss Dewey, Mrs. C. C. Seewir, Mrs. W. C. Smyser, and Mrs. H. G. Rose of the D. A. R., and Mr. J. R. Mead of the Historical Society. The minutes of the meeting were as follows : "Meeting of the Trail Committee was held in the parlors of the Hamilton Hotel, Wichita, November 9th, 1905, at one o'clock, Mrs. Stanley, chairman, presiding. The program arranged for Trail Day was presented and then given to Mrs. Harvey to arrange for printing in the Kansas Educator and the Western School Journal. "The Committee on Railroads, which was appointed at the meeting in April, reported courteous promises, only, as the officials were not in the offices when the committee called. The secretary was instructed to confer with Secretary Martin in regard to asking the towns along the route of the Trail to re-name streets once a part of the Old Santa Fe Trail, and call them the Santa Fd Trail. The committee on stones for the markers was not ready to report at this meeting. "The Regent and Secretary Martin were instructed to write to Mr. McDonald of the Western School Jour nal, who had refused to print the program of the Trail Day." tracing the route 47 This program for Trail Day, January 29th, 1906, was planned by a committee of the Ottawa Daughters, Miss Jennie Brooks and Miss Meeker, and consisted of Kansas stories of historic spots, especially the route of the Old Santa Fe Trail, with songs and poems, all on the subject of Kansas. This program, with the map of the Trail across Kansas, filled eight pages of the Kan sas Educator, published in Hutchinson by Mr. Dayhoff. (The matter was referred to in Miss Meeker's minutes of the committee meeting in Wichita, that Mr. Mac- Donald refused to print the program in the Western School Journal, published at Topeka. He said that he could not print it all, as it was so long. Mrs. Harvey interviewed Mr. MacDonald, who published in his Jan uary number a part of the program, with the map and Trail pictures.) The work of getting these programs to the teachers of the State and also helping them find the data for the essay matter for the Trail Day exercises and prizes, was a great undertaking. Superintendent Dayhoff was very liberal in his help, and put notices of the Trail Day in his November and December numbers, and all of the program and rules for the prize contests in his January number. He also furnished the secretary with a list of the superintendents of county and city schools, and to these she sent copies of the program and the list of prizes and rules governing them. One great trouble in regard to the prize essays came from the fact that so few schools had libraries, outside of the city schools, and had very little opportunity of 48 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL finding the history of the Trail. Miss Zu Adams sent from the Historical Society, lists of books containing reference to the old Trail to any one who applied to her. The press committee was fortunate in having Mr. Seewir as an earnest helper. Mr. Seewir printed the lists of reference books compiled by Miss Adams, as sisted by Prof. Hodder of Kansas University and sev eral others, and these were sent to the county news papers for publication. The students were also urged to ask help from old settlers for their stories, especially from those who had been over the Trail in its days of usefulness as a highway. No one can conceive the vast amount of letter-writing all this Trail-marking necessitated. The Executive Committee, the Press Committee and the committee to purchase the mark ers must have lived in a perpetual state of pen-hold ing, for few had the use of the typewriter, at that time. Professor Crain of the Ottawa University and his class in stenography gave very valuable help by copying programs and letters, and in other ways ably assisting the good work. 'trail day" 49 CHAPTER VI. TRAIL DAY. Early in December, 1905, the press committee sent out the following circular to all school superintendents, the committee on awards having duly reported and their plans accepted by the committee, as a whole : " To the Superintendent : Will you kindly place in the hands of your teachers this circular, urging them to encourage their pupils in the grades named, to enter this contest, not only for the money offered but for the sake of the knowledge gained from the research necessary pertaining to the story of their own State. These prizes are offered by a joint committee made up of members of the State Historical Society and the Daughters of the American Revolution. " The committee also offers a large flag to the school making the largest collection to the fund, which will be used in paying for the markers of the Santa Fe Trail, that collection to be taken on Kansas Day, which it is requested shall be Trail Day, the moneys to be sent to Mrs. Clarence S. Hall, State Treasurer of the Kansas D. A. R. at Lawrence, who will receipt for them. As each child in the schools is asked to give but one penny, it is hoped that all may respond. "Pupils of the seventh and eighth grades are asked to write essays for prizes. Those of the district schools Mrs. Clarence S. Hall. 'trail day" 51 upon topics of local history. In the cities of the first and second class, pupils of the seventh and eighth grades are asked to write upon 'The Santa F<§ Trail.' The essays shall not be less than 200 or more than 2,000 words. "Prizes will be awarded as follows : For best essay on local history, $10.00; for the second best, $7.00; for the third best, $5.00; for the fourth best, $3.00. For the best essay upon the Santa Fe Trail, $10.00; for the second best, $7.00; for the third best, $5.00; for the fourth best, $3.00. "The teachers of the district schools are asked to select the best essay offered and forward to the county superintendent, who in turn is asked to select the best and send to Superintendent I. L. Dayhoff, of Topeka, who is chairman of the committee on awards. Teach ers in the city schools are asked to select the best Trail essay and give it to the city superintendent, who is asked to make the selection and send to Superintendent Dayhoff." (Signed) Mrs. J. C. Mack, Newton, Mrs. C. C. See wir, Lawrence, Mrs. Clarence S. Hall, Lawrence, Press Committee for the D. A. R. of Kansas. As the State appropriation could be used only for the purchase of markers, the Trail Committee lacked funds for postage, printing, etc., so the five dollars given by Mr. J. R. Mead, of Wichita (the first money given the Trail-marking fund), was used for postage. Mr. Mead also paid for the cut of the Trail map and for the pic- 52 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL ture of the Trail in western Kansas. These cuts were made by the Mail and Breeze printing office, in Topeka. The map of the Trail across Kansas was traced on a small map, for the women, by Mr. Marsh, who had made the large map for them, without any extra charge. This map was four by eight inches, and on it were the county lines, rivers, principal cities, and the Trail. They were used in advertising Trail Day in several ways. The cut or plate cost $2.95. Mrs. Hall, of the press committee, tells a pleasing story of Mrs. Sara T. D. Robinson, of Lawrence, wife of ex-Governor Robinson, and a charter member of the Betty Washington Chapter. Mrs. Hall says : "Mrs. Seewir and I met in the library one day to talk over plans for the work of the Press Committee. As we were talking, Mrs. Robinson came in. Knowing her to be a Daughter, and always interested in any thing pertaining to Kansas or Kansas history, I went to her and told her of our plans and how the work for the trail-marking was progressing. She listened at tentively a few minutes, and then said, 'I want to help ;' she opened her purse and took from it three dol lars, all it contained, as she had been shopping and was only waiting for her carriage to take her home. She said, 'Take this, and more will come.' And thus," said Mrs. Hall, "the Press Committee got its first help for postage." The original plate of the Trail map was sent to Mr. Dayhoff for his Educator and an electrotype of it was sent to Mr. MacDonald for the Western School Journal. 'trail day" 53 On December 22nd, Miss Meeker received the fol lowing letter from Mr. Franklin Hudson, President of the Board of Park Commissioners in Kansas City, Mo. : " I am sending you by mail today, a photograph of the Santa Fe Trail marker as adopted by the Board of Public Works and the Board of Park Commissioners of this city. The bas-relief plates completed will be 19x26 inches in size. Mrs. J. K. Hudson, of Topeka, suggested sending this copy to you, and I trust you may see your way clear to giving aid to the idea of adopting this design as a marker in the State of Kan sas. And any information in regard to the same will be cheerfully furnished." This design was accepted by the Board of Park Com missioners of Kansas City, Mo., and the Trail as it had crossed Penn Valley Park was marked by a boulder with this bronze design on it. The City Council paid Mrs. M. M. Miles, in charge of the art work in their Manual Training school in that city, $400 for the de sign. It was found that bronze copies of the design could be furnished the Kansas Daughters at thirty dollars each for any number they might desire to use. Miss Adams in criticising the design said it was "very suggestive of the Trail, but it seems to me the wagon should have been the old Pennsylvania Conestoga style, as that is the wagon pictured by Gregg in his book, written in the heyday of the Santa Fe Trail in 1844. The cut through which the wagon is going looks more like a cut through the Kansas City bluffs, than a Kan- 54 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL sas prairie road." It was suggested that some promi nent places, such as Council Grove, Burlingame, or Dodge City, which are directly on the Trail, might aid in getting this especial marker. BRONZE PLATE, AND PRIZES 55 CHAPTER VII. THE BRONZE PLATE, AND PRIZES. In response to Miss Meeker's requests to the Council of the several towns which are on the old Trail, asking that the street might be named Santa Fe Trail, one from the City Clerk of Burlingame said that their main street was named Santa F£ Avenue when the town was first platted, and it was thought best not to add "Trail" to it. Word from Council Grove said that the matter would be considered at the next Council meeting. The map of the Trail made by Mr. Marsh gave the course of the route and the counties through which it passed, but did not give the historic spots of special interest which should be marked, if only enough of these markers could be purchased. The old pioneers were called on for these places, and Miss Meeker wrote to each county seat, asking help to locate these. Sev eral former Trail followers were found living in other States, and were written to. Of course there was great diversity of opinion as to what places should receive the markers, but probably the greatest controversy was caused by the design of the Trail-marker used in Kan sas City. The papers were full of these stories, and Miss Meeker made a most interesting collection of them. The following letter to the Kansas City Jour- 56 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL nal under date of December 1st, 1905, by W. A. Ma- daris, of Hobart, Oklahoma, is convincing : "A few days ago I saw a note in the Star from Mr. Beardsley about some criticisms on the proposed tablet to be used as a marker for the route of the old Santa Fe Trail. I wrote Mr. Beardsley about it, suggesting the laughable inaccuracy of such a tablet as published in the Star of some months ago. The fact appears to be that the designer of that tablet made a desperate effort to get as far from being historically correct as he could, and the adoption of such a tablet by the Board would make it the laughing-stock of the men who made the old Trail famous, as well as often no torious. "The only two teams known on that old Trail were the six yoke of oxen, attached to a wagon carrying from 6000 to 7000 pounds of freight ; and the four or five span of mules attached to a like wagon, the num ber of span of mules depending on the size of the mules. This six yoke of oxen were driven by one man from the left or near side, the driver generally using a whip, the lash of which was from twelve to sixteen feet long, weighing from four to six pounds, and attached to a stock thirty inches long. The mule team was driven by one man riding on near wheel or tongue mule and guided by a check-line attached to the rein of the near lead mule, the off mule being controlled by a jockey- stick. The driver never rode a horse, and much less on the off side of the team. The wagon-master rode a BRONZE PLATE, AND PRIZES 57 horse or mule, but his duty was not to drive the team, unless it was sometimes when the team doubled up. His duty was to look out for a camping-place, for wood, water and grass, etc. "This is prompted by a suggestion I see in your issue of the 28th inst., by Judge W. R. Barnard, and when men who did the bull-whacking act over that old Trail as I did from 1863 to 1866, see his suggestion, they will have a good laugh and offer to bet a dollar to a nickel that he never saw a Mexican train of mules or cattle ; that he never yoked a pair of steers in his life and couldn't string out six yoke of cattle in four days, while an ordinary driver would do it in seven minutes after he had been on the road two weeks. If that was the Judge's picture in that design he is welcome to the notoriety it gives him, but it is a humiliating joke on the man who made the Trail and a worse one on the board who adopts such a daub in so worthy an effort to mark the Trail. I crossed the year the Indians were on the war-path, and the day we left Cow Creek our train was 24 miles long. We went three trains abreast, and the train was then eight miles long. I know what I am talking about. Respectfully, W. A. Madaris." This same Mr. Madaris was a great help in locating famous spots along the trail. He wrote Miss Meeker that his criticism published in the Journal was more in the spirit of fun, than to find fault or get his name in the papers. A very interesting article on his trail ex- 58 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL periences was published in the Topeka Daily Capital, in January, 1906. A very few changes had been made in the standing Trail Committee at the beginning of the year 1906. Mrs. C. A. McGuire, of Topeka, had been added to the list, also Mrs. W. C. Smyser, of Sterling, Mrs. Shaw, of Hiawatha, and Mrs. T. A. Cordry ; the last two to have the marking of Pawnee Rock under their especial consideration, Mrs. Cordry being on the Press Committee. The work for Trail Day was done as tar as the Daughters could do anything. The sentiment of the people all over the State was aroused, and many in quiries were received by teachers and pupils in regard to the prizes. The January number of the "Kansas Ed ucator," published at Hutchinson, by Mr. I. L. Dayhoff, containing the Trail Day program and instructions in regard to the prizes, was as far as possible sent to all school teachers in the State. For this the Daughters agreed to pay Mr. Dayhoff on the basis of five per cent of total amount received from the penny collection. Mr. MacDonald of the Western School Journal published four pages of the Trail Matter and program. This only went, however, to his regular subscribers. Kansas Birth day, January 29th, was Trail Day, and in 485 schools in the State, the day was appropriately observed and the penny collection to the amount of $698.83 was realized. This was a rather disappointing amount, considering the number of school children in the State. Some BRONZE PLATE, AND PRIZES 59 schools in the State did not observe the Trail Day fea ture at all, and the Daughters realized that the time had possibly been too short to interest them in the historic value to the State, of the movement. Some said, "Why have a penny collection, when the State gave you an appropriation of $1,000? " Very few mark ers would that appropriation alone have purchased. If the penny collection did not reach the sum which the Daughters anticipated it would, it at least aroused public interest in the places where the Trail followed, and by this interest the citizens aided the Daughters very much financially, by taking all responsibility in setting the markers. Many handsome memorials were placed that would have been omitted if only the cold figures of the State appropriation backed the under taking. In reading over the extensive correspondence of Miss Meeker, the secretary of the Trail Committee ; Mrs. Harvey, in charge of the program work; Mrs. Clarence Hall, State Treasurer and a member of the press committee ; Miss Zu Adams, in charge of select ing the style of markers ; Mr. George Martin, in charge of placing the markers ; and Mrs. Stanley, in general supervision, we are truly surprised at the little the public at large knew of the tireless, unceasing daily effort to mark the old Trail through Kansas. And it all was accomplished with such a unanimity of purpose that there was no friction anywhere. One woman writes : " We have no fusses, and the only misunder standings have come from two persons, men." But these were only a matter of a few days' worry. 60 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL The committee on awards, Mrs. Prentis, Mrs. Mc Guire and Superintendent Dayhoff, announced early in February that the following pupils had received the prizes for essays : First prize for Santa Fe Trail essay, $10.00 : Miss Maida Sheldon, Marysville. Second prize, $7.00: Miss Carrie Murphy, Ottawa. Third prize, $5.00: Alfred Hill, Emporia, Lyon county. Fourth prize, $3.00: Miss Olga Potter, Newton, Harvey county. Fifth prize, $1.50: Miss Minnie Newman, Sterling, Rice County. (This prize was added at the last by Mrs. C. A. McGuire, of Topeka.) The following won the prizes for the best essays on Kansas History : First prize, $10.00: Miss Esther Curtis, Manley, Linn county. Second prize, $7.00: Miss Diddie Gibson, Boicourt, Linn county. Third prize, $5.00: Miss Mahala B. Haskell, Pea- body, Marion county. Fourth prize, $3.00: Miss Florence Burtis, Rock Creek, School District No. 8, Allen county. The collections from the different schools came in so slowly that it was April before the full amount was known and only then could the flag to be awarded to the school having the largest collection, be given. This was won by the Central School, of Lawrence. The essays were published in several papers, then BRONZE PLATE, AND PRIZES 61 with the others, not awarded prizes, were placed under the care of the State Historical Society. Mrs. Hall said that she received 376 letters with the collections, which showed, in every instance, remarkable interest in the work the Daughters were doing in mark ing the old Trail. These were of great help, for in many cases the teachers told of the fact that the Trail either crossed the school grounds or was near it, and that they would help in setting the markers. Mrs. Hall kept a book with the date of receiving the collec tions, the name of the town, county, school district, number of pupils, name of teacher, amount donated, and any remark of interest in regard to the school. This book is preserved for future reference, by the State Historian of the Daughters of the American Revolu tion. 62 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL CHAPTER VIII. MARKERS SELECTED. At the meeting on Kansas Day in Topeka, 1906, called to organize a "Women's Kansas Day Club," Miss Meeker represented the Daughters on the pro gram, giving an excellent address on the organization of the National Society of the D. A. R. ; its aims, and some of the work the order had accomplished. She told of the marking of the Santa Fe Trail, and asked the helpful interest of all of the women who lived along the old Trail, to suitably mark the place in their home town. Her address, which was of great interest, was published in several papers over the State, creating much interest in the work of the Daughters. People began to see that there was somc'^ing more than the mere appropriation needed for the work. The Daugh ters were cultivating the ground, as it were, for the seed of interest in preserving historic places. An informal meeting of the members of the Trail Committee was held at the State House, in the State Historical Society's rooms, on January 30th, 1906, at 9 : 30 a. m. Samples of the cement blocks to be used in marking the Trail were shown, together with the in scription as planned by the committee in charge of the markers. Suggestions were offered as to possible changes, but the whole matter was left in charge of the MARKERS SELECTED 63 committee on purchasing stones, Miss Zu Adams and Judge Milliken, both of whom were present. Pawnee Rock matters were discussed, and Mrs. Shaw of Hiawatha was instructed to write to officers of the Seventh District Federation of Women's Clubs, and ask them to take the matter up. Mrs. Prentis also promised to interest herself in the enterprise and see what could be done. The owner of the famous old rock was quarrying it for commercial purposes and demanded a high price. It was suggested at this committee meeting that the only way to get the markers properly set, would be to find in each county some responsible person who would receive the stones, and see that they were set in the places designated. The committee on railroads went to the Santa F6 offices and later reported that the Santa Fe Railway Company promised to transport the markers free of charge. The members of the committee present were : Mrs. Stanley, chairman ; Miss Meeker, Secretary ; Mrs. Shaw, Pawnee Rock Member ; Mrs. A. M. Harvey ; Miss Zu Adams, of the Daughters ; and Mrs. Prentis and Judge Milliken, of the State His torical Society. Miss Meeker was given charge of sell ing the bronze tablets, for the use of those who wanted to put up something better than the regular marker. The Franklin Hudson Publishing Company, by Mr. Hudson himself, had written Miss Meeker of the marker used in Kansas City, Missouri. In regard to the criti cisms he said : "It is sufficient simply to say, that the artist was not seeking to make a realistic picture, but 64 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL to make a picture representing an idea of the primitive method of crossing the plains on the Santa Fe Trail." He also suggested that the plates could be set in the markers and cemented tight. The weight of these plates are estimated at about twenty to thirty pounds. Additional lettering could be put on. Also the State seal of Kansas could take the place of the seal of Kan sas City, but this of course would have to be taken up with the designer, Mrs. Maud M. Miles. In reference to Pawnee Rock, Mr. Hudson said: "It would cer tainly be too bad if this prominent feature of the Santa Fe Trail should be destroyed. I published Major Henry Inman's first book of the Santa Fe Trail, and one of the prominent stories in this book was of Pawnee Rock. It has always remained in my mind of especial interest on the trail, and this should certainly be re membered with one of these tablets." The cost of these plates was, 10 plates, $50 each ; an additional 25 plates, $40 each, and so on as the number ordered increased. On consulting Mrs. Miles, the designer, Miss Meeker found that she would change the seals without extra charge, but the foundry would charge a small sum, as they would have to make a fresh die. Miss Meeker at once went to work to find ten places for the tablets, and by August the order was given for the first ten. These were to be placed on special markers by citizens along the trail or by Daughters as a special memorial. It was Miss Meeker's work, also, to find where mark ers were wanted, and if the citizens at these places would help in the expense. The Barton county people MARKERS SELECTED 65 raised on Trail Day $90, and instead of turning it in with the penny collection, preferred to keep it, and with the advice and help of the Daughters, spend that on especial markers for their county. Mr. C. R. Aldrich, County Superintendent of Schools of Barton county, told Miss Adams that they wanted two markers, one to be at the old Fort Zarah site, where they hoped to have a monument with a cannon on top. Speaking of Pawnee Rock, which is in Barton county, he said : " Why, that is only a hole in the ground. The projection known as Pawnee Rock has been cut down 30 or 40 feet. The owner is not willing to sell a small strip of land lying between the corpora tion of Pawnee Rock and his quarry (at the rock) ex cept for a large sum." So the hope of having a marker on the famous old rock seemed farther and farther away. In response to a letter from Miss Meeker, Judge Milliken, of McPherson, wrote as follows : "I am glad to see the deep interest you manifest in marking the Santa Fe Trail. Since I saw you I have been in Den ver several days, and visited the State Historical So ciety. I found that the Trail traverses the southeast corner of that State for about thirteen miles. The custodian promised to write to Secretary Martin and try to get Colorado in line for marking that section. I have wanted to put a good marker about four miles southeast of McPherson, near the Santa Fe school- house, but a few rods from a branch of Turkey creek where there stood a stockade and a place known as SN LOVING MEMORY OF 1859 ZU ADAMS mn THAT HER WORK AMONG US MAY BE CHERISHED THIS TABLET IS PLACED HERE BY TOPEKA CHAPTER DAUGHTERS OF- THE AMERICAN REVOLUTION Bronze Tablet in Memorial Building, Topeka, Kansas. MARKERS SELECTED 67 'Fuller's Ranch.' This point is also at the intersec tion of Coronado's trail when he went from the mouth of the Little Arkansas to the Smoky Hill river, five and one-half miles southwest of Lindsborg, where there are numerous mounds in which a piece of chain armor was found. Now it seems to me an appropriate place to put one of those good markers would be near Mc Pherson." Mrs. W. C. Smyser, member of the Trail Committee at Sterling, and Regent of the chapter there, created an interest in the work. In March, 1906, she wrote Miss Meeker that while her schools there did not do as well by the penny collection as she wished, the fund for their boulder was growing fast. She expected to want one of the bronze plates for their boulder. The Pawnee proposition moved very slowly in spite of the fact that such good workers as Mrs. Prentis and Mrs. Shaw were in charge. In March, the Trail map cuts were sent to Mrs. Mack, at Newton, and to the State Historical Society for preservation. On May 15th, Miss Adams, chairman of the marker committee, sent a letter to the State Regent, Mrs. Stanley, who presented the letter with samples accom panying it at next meeting of committee : "Inclosed find two patterns of the Santa Fe Trail marker, drawn by the Topeka foundry. The first is shorter than the second, which is the one we planned to use, and is preferable because of the shortness of the lines. In the second pattern it is difficult to put the 68 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL words, ' Marked by the Daughters ' in one line with out coming too near the margin. I also submit two patterns on the small sheet submitted by Mr. Stanton. Mr. Forbes offers to make one hundred markers of cement stone, like sample which I inclose in a separate package, for four dollars and fifty cents, being one part cement and three parts sand. The face of the marker being pressed will have a whitish surface, so that it will be considerably lighter in appearance than the sides, which are finished against the mold. This in cludes the loading of the markers on the freight cars by the car-load, which will hold in the neighborhood of sixty, and the furnishing of the cement by himself. We are to furnish the pattern for the inscription, which will perhaps be twenty or twenty -five dollars, and the molds will cost perhaps ten dollars apiece. Mr. Stan ton says we had better have three molds and perhaps three plates. Each additional inscription plate will cost one dollar and twenty-five cents. "I also send you a sample of the ten-dollar stone offered by Mr. Maynard, of Kansas City. He offers to furnish the plate and molds and stone on the car for ten dollars each. He uses Carthage grit and ce ment. "You will find inclosed in the package, also, a sample of granite offered by a Mr. Guild, of Topeka. This granite comes from Granite, Oklahoma, and is in frag ments, as it comes from the quarry in all sorts of shapes. He offers to break it so as to get a surface for a perma nent foundation, and place on the most available face, MARKERS SELECTED 69 the inscription on a hammered surface. He says that the stones will range between six and eight hundred pounds ; that they will need no foundation, and that they will wear forever. He will furnish them at $16.80 on the car. Mrs. Harvey thinks we could afford to put in about eighty stones. Mr. Stanton assures me that it will be necessary to have a stone foundation on which to place them, and we can allow an average of $2.50 for this. He also says the cement of four feet in length, sunk two feet in the ground, will reach below frost without danger of settling, and will therefore need no foundation. (Signed) Zu Adams." The inscription suggested was: "Santa F6 Trail. 1822—1872. Marked by Kansas and the Daughters of the American Revolution. 1906." The date of 1872 was the date of the finishing of the Santa Ft* Railroad through Kansas, and the date of 1880 on the Kansas City marker was the date of the completion of the rail road to Santa F£, New Mexico, and the final abandon ment of the trail as a regular thoroughfare. Mrs. Stanley called a meeting of the entire Trail Committee in Topeka, August 28th, 1906, to decide on the kind of marker to be used. Miss Meeker was too ill to attend, and Mrs. Hall and Miss Adams reported the action of the committee to her. Those present were : Mrs. Stanley, Mrs. Brooks, Mrs. Horton, Mrs. Smyser, Mrs. Hall, Mrs. Harvey, Mr. Martin, Judge Milliken, and Miss Adams. The latter, chairman of the marker committee, reported the offers and prices she had received on the cement markers, one at $11.50, 70 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL we furnishing the cement, and two at $7.50 each, cement furnished. Mrs. Harvey then described the granite of fered by Mr. Guild, of Topeka, fragments running from 800 to 1500 pounds, to be carved with our inscription on a smooth surface, price to average $16.00 per stone. On motion of Mrs. Brooks, of Lawrence, it was voted that we decide to purchase seventy of these granite stones, and place them at prominent places on the Trail in each county, more in the eastern half of the State than in the western half. Mrs. Stanley appointed Mrs. Harvey and Mrs. Hor ton to see Mr. Guild and secure a written contract, to be signed by Mr. Martin and herself. She also asked Mr. Martin to assist Miss Meeker in securing places for the markers. It was also voted to pay the Topeka foundry the sum of $11.70 for the plate made for the cement mark ers. Mrs. Smyser, as regent of the Sterling Chapter, was instructed to place the marker furnished by that chap ter, at the intersection of the main traveled road be tween Lyons and Sterling and the old Santa Fe Trail, which is about a half-mile from Lyons. There had been some thought of placing it at the Cow Creek Cross ing, now a little-used thoroughfare. It was thought that it might cost four dollars to pay freight, and cost of placing each marker, making the cost twenty dollars per marker, more markers to be added if a sufficient balance remain. It was also voted that the Santa Fe and Rock Island Railroads be asked MARKERS SELECTED 71 to place markers at their own expense at places where their roads crossed the old Trail, and for other courte sies, if possible. They also discussed helping Miss Meeker dispose of ten bronze plates. The entire com mittee (with the exception of Miss Adams, who felt that more could be placed if the cheaper ones were chosen), voted for the granite markers as being more durable, and really more of a credit to the Daughters. 72 MARKING THE SANTA fe trail CHAPTER IX. CONTRACT AWARDED. The Topeka, Lawrence, Sterling and Ottawa Chap ters were very busy all summer planning for their es pecial markers. The Topeka Chapter was to erect one at Burlingame in memory of Mrs. Fannie G. Thomp son, the originator of the Trail-marking. The Law rence and Ottawa Chapters were planning for a marker at Baldwin (the "Palmyra" of early history), and the Sterling Chapter, assisted by the citizens of Sterling and Rice county, were to be the first to place any of the markers in Kansas. Mrs. Seewir, Regent of the Betty Washington Chapter, of Lawrence, reported at the conference that fall, that she with Mrs. Hall and Mrs. Brooks had accompanied Mr. Walter, a County Commissioner of Douglas county, to Willow Springs and Globe, and had selected the places for the markers which had been placed. Also, that their share of the money for the Baldwin marker was ready. Mrs. Stanley was so unfortunate as to have her home in Wichita destroyed by fire, early in July, but in spite of the many difficulties attendant on the restoration of her home she attended to the many calls on her time by the Daughters, and proved herself loyal in every respect to the office she held. She received many let ters from other States, asking about the Trail-marking in Kansas, especially from Colorado, where the Daugh- CONTRACT AWARDED 73 ters wanted to mark the trail as it went through Colo rado. In Ottawa, Miss Meeker was busy, and at the Ot tawa Chautauqua in July she had charge of a D. A. R. hour and talked "Trail" and "Pawnee Rock" to many interested hearers. She also spoke for the D. A. R. and the Trail-marking at the Old Settlers' Reunion at Olathe in September, where their marker was un veiled. She ordered ten of the bronze plates to be de livered, half on September 1st and half on October 1st, and was so fortunate as to have them all placed by the time for delivery. Mrs. Harvey, Vice Regent, was also busy. In October, she sent to Mrs. Wheaton, State Regent of Colorado, a photograph of the granite markers made by Mr. Guild, and also a copy of the contract with him. Mrs. Harvey, as chairman of the contract committee, felt as though she had completed the work assigned her when she had the following contract with Mr. Guild made out, signed and delivered, and she well de served her release from worry for a while : CONTRACT. This Agreement, Made and entered into this 14th day of Sep tember, A. D. 1906, by and between George W. Martin, Secretary of the Kansas State Historical Society, and Emma Hills Stanley, Regent of the Daughters of the American Revolution in the State of Kansas, parties of the first part, and C. W. Guild, of Topeka, Kansas, party of the second part, Witnesseth : That said parties of the first part agree to purchase from the party of the second part, seventy red granite boulders, to 74 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL be delivered free on board cars at Topeka, Kansas, said boulders to be substantially as follows : Each of said boulders shall be at least two feet in height and not less than sixteen inches in breadth. The superficial area of the base of each of said boulders shall be not less than two square feet. Each of said boulders shall have a pitched bed. Each of said boulders shall be dressed smooth on one side, and on this smooth surface shall be cut the following inscription : SANTA FE TRAIL. 1822—1872. Marked by The Daughters op the American Revolution and THE State of Kansas. 1906. The lettering of such inscription shall be clear and legible and each letter shall be painted white. The dressing and lettering of each boulder shall be done in a good, workmanlike manner. The quality of the granite of each boulder shall be equal to that furnished by the party of the second part to the Topeka Chapter of the Daughters of the American Revolution as a marker on the Santa Fe Trail at Burlingame, Kansas. Each of said boulders shall be free from cracks or other defects. Each of said boulders shall be crated in such a way that the dressed surface and lettering shall be protected. Each boulder shall be subject to inspection by the parties of the first part before acceptance or delivery. Said boulders shall be delivered as follows : Ten on the first day of October, 1906 ; Fifteen on the first day of November, 1906 ; Fifteen on the first day of December, 1906 ; CONTRACT AWARDED 75 Fifteen on the first day of January, 1907; Fifteen on the first day of February, 1907. Party of the first part agrees to pay to party of the second part for each of said red granite boulders when delivered as aforesaid the sum of sixteen dollars ($16), and payment shall be made at the time of each delivery, to cover the number so delivered at that time. Party of the second part agrees to furnish the said red granite boulders and deliver them as hereinbefore provided, and to have the entire number delivered on or before the first day of February, 1907; and in case he shall fail, neglect or refuse to furnish said red granite boulders as hereinbefore provided, and within the time hereinbefore stated, then he shall be liable for damages to the parties of the first part in the liquidated sum of five hundred dollars ($500) ; such dam ages not to be collectible if the delay is caused by strike, lockouts, or by any act of God or a public enemy. In Witness Whereof, The said parties have hereunto signed their names, the day and year first above written. Witnesses : Geo. W. Martin, Secretary of the Kansas State Historical Zu Adams. Society. Mary Burwell Burns. Emma Hills Stanley, Isabelle Cone Harvey. Regent of the Daughters of the American Revolution in the State of Kansas, Parties of the first part. C. W. Guild, Party of the second part. Miss Grace Meeker. SOME INTERESTING LETTERS 77 CHAPTER X. SOME INTERESTING LETTERS. A letter from Mr. J. R. Mead, of Wichita, one of the Trail-Marking Committee from the State Histor ical Society, to Miss Meeker, under date of March 10th, 1906, is of interest and worthy of preservation in this record. He said : "I am glad to hear from you, and to know that you are still vigorously engaged in promoting the marking of the Trail. I hardly know what to advise in relation to the various embarrassing questions which arise. It does seem to me that each county and town through which the Trail passed, should have pride and spirit enough to attend to their part of it. There is a won derful amount of history and romance all along the Old Santa Fe Trail, enough to make volumes of ab sorbing interest. The Trail is lined with unknown, unmarked graves, more numerous than the stones you propose to set. From Cow creek west to the State line, every mile has its history of battle, attack, am bush, stampede, burned wagons, murdered or captured emigrants, all kinds of killings and escapes. Regiments of cavalry and infantry have traversed the Trail since the Mexican War period, to recent times. Nearly every general of note in our civil war, sometime in his career, passed over the Trail — Sherman, Sheridan, 78 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL Harvey, Hancock, Kearny, Miles, Crook, Sumner, Col. Leavenworth, Kit Carson, and Col. Bent. These I either saw on the Trail or was near by when they passed. Fremont traveled the Trail from Great Bend to the mountains. Stanley, the African explorer, spent several weeks at Mathewson's Ranch, on Walnut creek, about 1865. He was then unknown to fame. Every creek-crossing and camping-place has its record of romance and history, mostly unrecorded. These facts should be enough to create local pride sufficient to place enduring monuments through every county and town. I do not live on the Trail, nor near it, and the men who were living on the trail or traveling over it, and were a part of its history, are dead, scattered and gone — nearly all. Their successors can see nothing in the famous Pawnee Rock, for instance, but a means of profit to themselves. I saw Pawnee Rock before it was despoiled of its historic names and forms by the settlers, who only valued it for the stone it contained. If the people have not enough pride to preserve this historic cliff, I suppose it will have to go to build hog lots, etc. "While in California, I had a visit with Mr. Charles F. Lummins, the famous historian of the early Spanish- American countries, and editor of the 'Out West' magazine. He has organized a society, which has se cured the right from the State Legislature to re-locate and mark, in fact open for travel, the famous ' Camino Real' (the King's Highway), a great road connecting all of the old Spanish missions in California, from San SOME INTERESTING LETTERS 79 Diego to San Francisco, — and there are a great many of these missions. The road was to California before its settlement, what the old Trail was to Kansas when a Territory. The work you have undertaken is distinct ly a work of, and for, the women of the D. A. R. I am one of two men here in Wichita who traveled over the Trail from the spring of 1859. I am pleased to know that you remembered so much of my conversation with you, while in Wichita, and that you made such good use of it and quoted me correctly. One great good your society is doing is in educating the children of the State, most of whom know nothing of the Old Santa Fe Trail. "Down towards Westport, a merchant returning from Santa Fe, New Mexico, was waylaid by desper adoes (this was about 1856), killed, his body tied to a wagon wheel, rolled into a pond and sunk. He had $10,000 in specie and the outlaws got it. The Santa F6 Railway crosses Switzler creek at Burlingame at almost the exact spot where the Trail crossed it, and where J. B. Titus's log toll-bridge was, and where I helped him collect toll in 1859. I made my home with him for some time. I would suggest that the Santa Fe1 Railway should erect a notable, conspicuous monu ment at this point as a historical spot of interest to tourists and travelers generally. West of the moun tains all of these historical spots are made the most of, and prove to be of great interest to travelers." Another letter of interest was in regard to the essays 80 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL and penny collection of the school children for Trail Day, and was written by Mrs. C. A. McGuire, of To peka, one of the committee to award the prizes, and was received by Miss Meeker, March 19th, 1906. It is as follows : "My Dear Miss Meeker : I was very glad to get your letter of the 14th. I know the interest you have taken in this matter. I am glad to tell you how much I was interested in the essays, and you are right when you say we were compensated for all of our work. I don't know when I have enjoyed anything more than the days spent at the State House reading them. They are with few exceptions, so neatly gotten up, as well as written. We could see the work the teachers had done as well as the pupil. There were a few from the far west part of the State that were very well written — that is to say, in regard to the matter contained, but were not so neatly written. The lot from Newton was beautifully written and well put together. I think, though, their interest had been stimulated by talks from Mrs. Prentis. I wish now that I had taken notes as we went along, for so many things have kept me busy since then, that there is not much now that I can re call. The fifth prize was a personal one. I did so wish that we could recognize in some way all of them, for all were so good, but the children have gained much in research. Professor Dayhoff was so busy, that after knowing what we were doing, he seemed content to leave the work to Mrs. Prentis and myself. We read SOME INTERESTING LETTERS 81 for two days to ourselves, and then began to read the same ones aloud, taking the portions of them to talk over — making notes as we went along and doing much outside reading ourselves. After a time, to feel sure we were doing right and best, we called in Mr. D. 0. McCray, an old newspaper man, to help us ; and with out saying just what we thought, had him read and give us his ideas, and were glad to find they were ex actly as we had found. Thus we went over every one, not once but many times, till I dreamed of the Trail by night and rode over it by day. Mr. McCray became very much interested, and formed a plan to publish many of the essays, one or two possibly at a time ; but it takes time to arrange it all, and I think as yet he has not perfected his plans. "We were also greatly interested in the work the country school teacher did with local Kansas history. The first prize essay was especially good in many ways. We also wanted arrangements made for the mention of many of the essays that were especially well done. Two, I think, from Wichita were artistically put to gether and beautifully written, but not just up in com position. Some were quite original, but went astray in subject-matter, but all were so very interesting that I wish we could give them all prizes. "Yes, the Trail-marking is slow work, and it is hard to get things started, but it will all come out right, I think, in the end." Mrs. McGuire was placed on the committee of 82 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL award in place of Mrs. A. H. Horton, who was com pelled to resign from that part of the work. Another letter which gladdened Miss Meeker's heart was one writtten June 11th, 1906, by Mr. D. Hubbard, of Olathe. He said : "In answer to your valued letter of the 3rd, will say that I called a meeting of the Old Settlers' Association of the county [Johnson county] here last Saturday, and laid your letter before them. They agreed to as sume the placing of the markers in this county, and the placing of a tablet in the public square, through which the Old Trail passed. It will be placed on Old Settlers' Day, the 8th of September, with due cere monies, and made the principal event on that occasion. Gardner will probably have one. "V. R. Ellis, who is president of the association, lives there. I am treasurer and director. The two trails united one mile east of Gardner. About five miles east of Gardner, on the Independence (Mo.) branch, was a famous camping-ground and watering-point, where there was a lone elm tree. The neighborhood about there is now known as Lone Elm, and there is a school-house and a grange hall. One-third of the markers can be sent to V. R. Ellis, Gardner, and two- thirds in my care here at Olathe. "How many markers will there be for each county? And at what points as regards the public roads are they to be put? We would like plans and prices of the tablets as soon as possible. There may be some other points where they may be wanted if the cost is SOME INTERESTING LETTERS 83 not too much. My first home in Kansas was on the Trail in Douglas county, and my oldest daughter was born there. She now belongs to the D. A. R. in Den ver, Colorado." Several valuable and interesting letters from ex- Senator George P. Morehouse, then living in Council Grove, are among the collection ; but as the Historian has drawn on them for the history of the Trail where the markers are placed, none will be given here. A very valuable assistant and correspondent in find ing places for the markers was Mr. Robert M. Wright, of Dodge City. He was a member of the Trail Com mittee from the State Historical Society and his letters went to Mr. George Martin, and so there are no letters from him in the Historian's box except those of recent date. Mr. Wright is the historian of the Trail in west ern Kansas, and has given the writer a great deal of help in straightening out tangles about the places there. He is the author of the book, "Dodge City, the Cowboy Capital," a thrilling story of those early days which tried men's souls. All during the summer of 1906, Miss Meeker was very busy disposing of the bronze plates and finding places for the markers. The first of September, Mr. Martin, who had been appointed at the last committee meeting to help her, practically took charge of the work in that direction. He said it was their business to find some responsible person in each county to take charge and find places for the markers and to see to the setting 84 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL of the same. The work of placing went on rapidly when once the interest was aroused. So many were in a hurry that the stonecutters were rushed. The Santa Fe Railway took the markers to their destination free of charge. Mr. Martin requested the Rock Island to give free transportation to Marion county for two markers, and was told it would be done if he would certify that it was a charitable job. Of course, Mr. Martin would not do that, so paid the freight. At the State meeting of the Daughters in Parsons, the first week in November, 1906, the reports from the Trail-marking were all interesting, but none more so than the State Treasurer's report of the Trail fund. It was as follows : January 2nd, 1906. — Received from Mrs. Sara T. D. Rob inson $ 3.00 January 26th to August 3rd, 1906. — From 485 schools in penny collection 698 . 83 Total $701 . 83 disbursements. Feb. 10, 1906. — Paid for circulars to County Superintend ents $ 6 . 50 Feb. 10, 1906. — Paid for 500 postal card receipts 5.75 April 30th, 1906. — To Supt. Dayhoff, for publication and extra copies of "The Educator" 94.25 September 24th, 1906. — To Topeka Foundry, for plate of Santa Fe Trail marker 11 .70 Total $118.20 Balance on hand 583 . 63 (Signed) Mrs. Lillian P. Hall, Treasurer. PLACING THE MARKERS 85 CHAPTER XL PLACING THE MARKERS. The work of getting places for the markers was no easy one, and countless letters were written by Miss Meeker, Secretary Martin and other members of the committee. In November, 1906, Mr. J. R. Mead, one of the committee, tried to interest the Atchison, To peka & Santa F£ Railway in erecting a monument where their road crosses Switzler creek near Burlingame. At this place, where the railroad crosses the creek, is the identical spot where the Old Trail crossed. Mr. Mead said that in 1859 there were a number of graves of early travelers, about one hundred feet north of the Trail, on the east side of the creek, — graves of those who gave up their lives for the cause of civilization. In January Mr. Mead wrote Miss Meeker that he had received encouragement from President Ripley, of the Santa Fe Road, as to placing a monument at Switzler creek, but no monument was ever placed there, to our knowledge. The first markers were sent to Mrs. W. C. Smyser, Regent of the Sterling Chapter, Sterling, Rice county, and were four in number. The first marker set was the one erected by the Sterling Chapter and the citi zens and clubs of Rice county. It was placed on the main road between Sterling and Lyons, where it crosses the old Trail about one mile south of Lyons. The Marker between Lyons and Sterling. PLACING THE MARKERS 87 Daughters were assisted by the various clubs in Lyons and Sterling. The stone weighs about 5,000 pounds, and is of granite from Oklahoma. The surface is smooth, the letters cut deep and painted white. This marker is about three times as large as the average marker purchased by the State and Daughters without the aid of citizens of the county. Rice county thus had the first marker and paid for it almost entirely without outside help. Mr. Dan M. Bell drove the stake, locating the spot upon which the marker is erected. The Sterling Chapter tried to purchase land enough for a small park around the marker. The cer emony of unveiling and dedicating this marker took place in 1907, and a large crowd witnessed the event. The second marker to be placed on the Trail and un veiled with appropriate ceremonies was on the old town-site of Lanesfield, two and one-half miles north east of Edgerton, in Johnson county. The marker is on a corner of the school-ground. The principal ad dress was by I. 0. Pickering, of Olathe, and there were many old settlers present who had "teamed" it over the old Trail in the early days. To the Topeka Chapter was given the honor of erecting the special marker in memory of the State Regent, Mrs. Fannie G. Thompson. As the old Trail did not pass through where Topeka now stands, they asked that they might place their marker in Burlin game, at the intersection of two streets on the old Trail. This was granted, and here follows an account of the ceremonies of the unveiling and dedicating the 88 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL Burlingame marker in memory of Mrs. Thompson and all who had passed along the old Trail : "On a bright June day in the summer of 1907, the members of the Topeka Chapter and their friends went in a special car on an hour's run to Burlingame, on the Old Santa Fe Trail, — the nearest approach to Topeka. "At dinner, Mrs. C. S. Oliver welcomed the guests on behalf of the city of Burlingame, and Mrs. Fred Bonebrake, of Osage City, and Mrs. Fred Slater, of Topeka, responded. "The old Trail dipped down into Switzler creek crossing, and up the main street of Burlingame, once known as Council City, and on over the rise west. Where Topeka avenue crosses Santa Fe avenue, which was the old Trail at one time, the monumental marker was erected, and here in the presence of a large crowd it was unveiled and presented to the city of Burlingame in memory of Mrs. Thompson. Conspicuous in the audience were many gray -haired men and women, most of whom knew the Trail when it was not a mere shadow. "The Osage Teachers' Institute opened the program by singing the Star-Spangled Banner. Mrs. J. T. Pringle presented Mrs. A. H. Horton, Past Regent of the Topeka Chapter and a Past President of the State Federation of Women's Clubs, as chairman of the day. Mrs. Horton then introduced Mrs. Margaret Hill Mc- Carter, of Topeka, who spoke of the stone and what it symbolized. Mrs. McCarter said in part : This Santa Fe Trail marker is the gift of the Topeka Chapter, alone. You will note that it exceeds the average markers in beauty PLACING THE MARKERS 89 and cost. It is their tribute to this noble work of history-preserving, worthy of the exalted notion they hold of their high privilege as Daughters of the most honorable force that ever, against all odds of fate, held human liberty dearer than human life. Furthermore, to day while we trace with granite boulder this historic highway far across a continent, we would mark with a white stone the memory of Fannie Geiger Thompson, whose great work this stone commemo rates. It was she who first saw the opportunity for the Daughters of the American Revolution in Kansas to do a most worthy work in fol lowing the Old Santa Fe Trail through Kansas. It is due to her patriotism and her zeal that this undertaking, now so popular at both ends of the line — in Missouri and Colorado — had a beginning and grew into a successful movement. We do honor ourselves when we honor her memory. And reverently do we lay with this stone, the spiritual monument more durable than granite — her monument in our hearts. " The dear Lord's best interpreters Are humble human souls. The gospel of a life like hers Is more than books or scrolls." "Mrs. H. I. Cook, Regent of the Topeka Chapter, then formally presented the stone to Burlingame as a gift from the Topeka Chapter. Mrs. Cook said in part : Topeka is not so fortunate as to be included in the "Classic ground," so we turn to Burlingame, our nearest point, feeling that we are indeed fortunate in securing so desirable a location in which to place our stone. The Topeka Chapter of the D. A. R. gives into the keeping of the citizens of Burlingame a marker of the Santa F£ Trail, knowing that they will appreciate the honor conferred. We appreciate the generous aid given us by the ladies of the Saturday Afternoon Club and the citizens of Burlingame, and hope the asso ciation in this work will prove an added bond of friendship between Burlingame and Topeka. "A f£ fftAit M ORrAi rO famuu TVri rnoMf oh WHO -.SUCBESTO) WiK -w'trsk. J.CTHI BY TflPFKACHAfC. (TERS 'or * :'"' "INVOLUTION Memorial at Burlingame. PLACING THE MARKERS 91 "Dr. Schenck, Mayor of Burlingame, responded, ac cepting the marker in the name of the city. Mrs. M. M. Miller, of Topeka, then read a memorial address on Mrs. Thompson, which was followed by personal rec ollections of the Trail by Mrs. William P. Deming, of Burlingame. The singing of 'America' closed the ex ercises." The marker, which stands in the center of the inter section of the two streets, is a red granite, irregular, undressed stone save for the polished eastern face, which bears the following inscription : 1822—1872. SANTA FE TRAIL. Memorial to Fannie Geiger Thompson, who suggested this work. Erected by the Topeka Chapter of the Daughters of the American Revolution. 1906. It rests on a limestone foundation given by the Sat urday Afternoon Club, of Burlingame. Even the stones in the foundation are historic, having been taken from the quarries near by, and having been laid for the foundation of the old Baptist church before the Civil War. These stones were taken to make a shelter around the well to guard against rebel attack : then they were taken for the original purpose and served forty years as foundation stones. This marker is treble in value in cost of the average marker, and bravely tells the story, which is unlike any other story in the world's history. MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL In Mrs. Miller's memorial to Mrs. Thompson she said : We think you may well be proud that here stands the stone which not only marks this most interesting part of the Old Trail, but com memorates the accomplishment of a purpose most dear to her whose name it bears. Love and devotion to her memory have been strong factors in perfecting this great work. We claim for her this dis tinction — that through the effort begun by her, the attainment of this work has become possible. Therefore we have placed the name of Fannie Geiger Thompson upon this stone, as a just tribute to one who worked for the preservation of Kansas history with an en thusiasm rarely equaled and never excelled. After supper on the day of the exercises, the Hon. George W. Martin, who worked hand in hand with the Daughters, in the Trail-marking, gave a very in teresting historical address. August 10th, 1907, was the date for the ceremonies dedicating another handsome marker — this one in Council Grove, about forty feet from the famous "Coun cil oak." The day was the eighty-second anniversary of the council of the Commission of the United States Government and the chiefs of the Great and Little Osage Indians for the right of way across the Plains for travel on the Trail. August 10th, 1825, this council was held in the old oak grove near the Neosho river, in what is now known as East Council Grove, the largest body of timber anywhere on the Trail. The large granite marker stands on the exact spot where this council was held. The monument is suitably inscribed, having on one face the usual lettering, on the other the inscrip tion stating that here was the place where the council PLACING THE MARKERS 93 was held. The monument is one of the finest on the Trail, and has a history box in the cement foundation. The celebration was very elaborate. Prominent histo rians of Kansas, D. A. R. and representatives of the Osage Indians, besides a number of old settlers, were in attendance. Hon. George P. Morehouse, a resident of Council Grove since the Trail days, made the prin cipal address. The markers in Edwards county were set in Septem ber of the same year. The ceremonies were in charge of the Kinsley Commerical Club, and the speakers were Mr. George W. Martin and Col. W. H. Rossington, of Topeka. The date was the thirty-third anniversary of the organization of Edwards county. In Finney county, at Harmony school-house, another marker was set, with fine exercises, the same September. In the notes from Secretary Martin's report further on, each marker is mentioned, and so we will give our at tention to only those the Daughters were especially interested in, here. The Daughters living in Ottawa and Lawrence, mem bers of the General Edward Hand and Betty Washing ton chapters, not being on the old Trail, asked and ob tained permission to place a marker on the trail just a half-mile north of Baldwin City. The following ac count is taken from the "Club Member," dated Octo ber, 1907 : "On the 11th of October, 1907, the chapters of the Daughters of the American Revolution of Ottawa and Marker at Baldwin. PLACING THE MARKERS 95 Lawrence met at Baldwin for the unveiling and formal presentation to the city of Baldwin the Santa F6 Trail marker erected at Baldwin by these chapters. The members of the chapters were met at the train and taken to the hotel as guests of Baldwin, and after din ner all went to the church, where an interesting ad dress was made by the Hon. G. W. Martin, Secretary of the State Historical Society, on early Kansas history. Miss Meeker, of Ottawa, State Secretary of the D. A. R., told of the work of the society, the preservation of historic spots, and of the marking of the Santa F6 Trail from one end of the State to the other. "A procession was then formed to proceed to the place where the marker had been erected. This is a small patch of ground one-half mile north of the city of Baldwin, and was given to the city by the owner, Mr. Isaiah Stickel. The formal presentation of the marker was made by Mrs. C. C. Seewir, Regent of the Betty Washington Chapter, Lawrence. Mayor Mitchener re sponded. He, with the Council, signed the legal papers which promised that Baldwin should care for the marker and grounds. The place shall be known as 'Trail Park.' The day was perfect and the occasion one long to be remembered by all who took part." (Signed) Jtjlia H. Gilmore, Historian of the Lawrence Chapter. The old name for Baldwin in Trail days was Pal myra, a prominent stopping-place on the Trail. Wichita was not on the old Trail, but the Eunice Sterling Chapter of that city wanted to place a marker Marker in City Park, Lost Springs. PLACING THE MARKERS 97 somewhere, and next year Secretary Martin advised them to put theirs at Lost Springs, the nearest impor tant spot to Wichita. One marker had already been placed in Lost Springs by Marion county, near the Santa Fe Depot, and so the Daughters placed theirs in the City Park. It is a handsome red granite boulder, and in its face is set the special bronze tablet design. The cost was $112. The stone was appropriately dedi cated by the chapter, and the Vice-President General, Mrs. W. E. Stanley, former State Regent, was present on that day. The following is a copy of the program : FOR DEDICATION OF SANTA FE TRAIL MARKER. Commencing promptly at 1 o'clock, November 14th, 1908. Ritual Work. Acting Regent Mrs. C. W. Bitting, Wichita. Chaplain Mrs. Burrell, Wichita. Responses Chapter, Wichita. Salute to the Flag- Chapter. Solo, "Star-Spangled Banner^' (with chorus), Mrs. C. E. Mott, Lost Springs Address J. R. Mead, Wichita. Address George P. Morehouse, Topeka Presentation of Marker, Mrs. W. E. Stanley, Vice-President General D. A. R., Wichita Response E. P. Mowrer, Mayor of Lost Springs Dedication Prayer Rev. F. E. Gordon Solo, "My Country, 'tis of Thee" Mrs. Gordon, Lost Springs 98 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL CHAPTER XII. THE END IN SIGHT. After the money was raised and each county had been written to many times to find some responsible person to take the responsibility of the markers, and see that they were set in the proper place, the work then sifted down to Secretary Martin and Mrs. A. M. Harvey, in Topeka, who would examine each marker before the shipment, to see that all terms of the con tract with Mr. Guild had been complied with. The letters received by the Secretary and Regent at this time were nearly all on the subject of "heard from So-and-so, and they want so many markers." The en thusiasm grew all over the route of the Trail, and great interest was taken in the history gathered from the old settlers, who were aroused as though from the sleep of ages to tell of their experiences while traveling the old Trail. School children eagerly sought to hear these stories, and the good which the marking of the Trail has done in reviving the interest in Kansas history, and urging the children to learn more history, cannot be estimated. We wish we had space to tell of all the nice things in this line which were, said and done in the years of 1906 and 1907. June 11th, 1907, Secretary Martin reported to Mrs. Stanley that the balance of the State appropriation, .89, was drawn out. Mr. Martin had found that THE END IN SIGHT 99 in nearly every place where the markers were wanted, they were held for some especial ceremonies, and this made the setting of them necessarily slow. In July, 1907, Mr. Martin wrote to Mrs. Stanley and sent her the original order for 70 markers delivered by Mr. Guild. He had shipped 78 and had enough money left for ten more. This would leave the Daughters thirty or forty dollars for an emergency. He had hunted up the Barton county item of ninety dollars, which was raised by the school children on Trail Day, and which had caused considerable writing. He found that Bar ton county had spent it for a Spanish gun, and had mounted the gun at old Fort Zarah. This money was raised at the time the Daughters asked for collections of a penny a child, but was never turned over to the Daughters as was done by the other counties. As the Daughters were the promoters of the marking, planned the program for the day and asked for the collection, they really have as much interest in the Old Fort Zarah marker as Barton county. Secretary Martin let Bar ton county have four markers. "More requests come for markers every day," wrote Mr. Martin. "One thousand dollars spread over 450 miles is thinner than it ought to be, but it is better than nothing." On August 14th, 1907, Mr. Martin wrote Mrs. Stan ley that the final vouchers, amounting to $546.29, were ready. The treasurer had $584.40 and a balance of $38.11 would be left. Many markers were held for celebrations. "It was discovered three weeks ago," said Mr. Martin, "that a treaty had been made with 100 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL the Kaws at a site located in McPherson county. A special marker should be placed there." On August 29th, Secretary Martin wrote Mrs. Stan ley of the final details of the work, and closed his letter by saying, " It has been an exceedingly interesting job." Stevens county was the last to be provided with one of the regular markers, the Trail just touching the northeast corner of the county. In February, 1907, the "Employees' Magazine," of the Santa Fe Railway, had a fine article about the Trail, written by Mrs. W. E. Stanley. The frontis piece was a picture of the first marker placed, that of the Sterling Chapter, aided by the citizens of Rice county. In the fall of 1907, the Eunice Sterling Chapter, Wichita, decided to put a marker at some place on the Trail, and in reply to Mrs. Stanley's query, "Where is the proper place for one?" Secretary Martin answered as follows, under date of December 23rd : "I have your letter of December 22nd. The cuts of the Council Grove marker can be easily obtained, as an abundance of photographs were made on that occa sion. I have never seen a cut of any Johnson county especial marker, nor of the one at Burlingame. The Baldwin marker is a very nice one, and is favorably located. By looking at my report under the head of 'Marion County,* you will see that Lost Springs had a marker taken care of by a banker named Shirk, and has a nice location in a little park near the two railroad depots. THE END IN SIGHT 101 "I have a map of Kansas on my desk with pencil- marks indicating each marker from the east to the west line of the State, as near as I could come by it by the surveys, and I declare I cannot see where you are going to get a good prominent place for another. Miss Adams suggests the Caches, four or five miles west of Dodge. George P. Morehouse may suggest a good point. I was thinking of the crossing of the Little Arkansas, but I see that the Rice county people have placed one there. Talk to Mr. J. R. Mead about it. I visited about seven of these markers, driving on the road, and I want to say they look wonderfully nice. You certainly ought to find some place for another marker — some good old camping-ground. I saw a couple of markers within one hundred feet of the Santa Fe Railway in plain view of the passengers, and they attract much attention. Zu [Miss Adams] remarked, to let her think a few days and perhaps something would occur to her. A couple of months ago I was in Lin coln, Neb., and told the story of the Trail-marking there, and they became wonderfully excited over mark ing the Oregon trail through their State. "Some one occasionally bobs up to question the right of marking the Trail north of the Arkansas river, but we made another examination of the records and concluded that that trail was not only the original one to Las Animas and southwest to the Raton Mountains, but was altogether the most used. I wouldn't, take- a good deal for my connection witkthisorrar king job." 102 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL CHAPTER XIII. HISTORY ENACTED WHERE THE MARKERS NOW STAND. We have given the various ways of purchasing and placing the handsome granite markers along the Old Santa Fe Trail through our State, and now we will give in brief some of the history which each stone should perpetuate in the minds of all who pass that way. Several of the old-time travelers of the Trail object to that name, for they say that in reality it was in most places a broad road about one hundred feet wide and beaten as hard as a floor. It was wide enough so that in times of Indian scare, eight wagons could line up abreast. And in many places the road is too hard to plow. The earliest use of the Trail was in 1822, when a caravan left Boonville, Mo., by way of Lexington, Independence, Westport (now Kansas City, Mo.), thence in a southwesterly direction across the great State of Kansas, then only a desert and wilderness, ar.d on to Santa Fe, New Mexico. The Santa Fe Railway follows the general direction of the old Trail across Kansas, crossing it in many places, and being almost identical with it in the western part. It was the completion of this road that made the old Trail an abandoned one as a principal way of travel to the west. When going over the old Trail from the east through Kansas, as many undoubtedly will by automobile or HISTORY ENACTED 103 otherwise, it is advisable to leave Kansas City, Mo., by way of Broadway, Westport avenue, and Forty-third street. The first marker is found at Overland Park, and from there the road goes south to Olathe, and then in a general western direction. When Kansas City had placed markers in prominent historical parts of old Westport, the Kansas Daughters put a marker on the part of the old Westport which was in Kansas. This is now Overland Park, and is just over the Kansas line from Missouri. Westport was the outfitting place for the long trip. Its history is an eventful one, the chief event being the battle of West- port in 1864. This marker is near the electric line be tween Kansas City and Olathe. The next marker is found a mile and a quarter south of Lenexa, Johnson county, on the top of the divide. The marker at Lone Elm tells of a famous camping- ground under an immense elm (which has long since disappeared), and which marks the dividing point of the travel toward Santa Fe, New Mexico, and the Cal ifornia travel. The latter went northwest by way of Wakarusa and "the Devil's backbone, " where the Uni versity of Kansas now stands, at Lawrence. The Olathe Register of November 13th, 1906, had a fine article about the unveiling of the Lone Elm Camp Ground marker, unveiled the Friday before. It is one of the regular markers, set in a marble slab, bearing the words, "Lone Elm Camp Ground." By the side of the marker that day were several relics of the past; one an old ox-bow brought from North Carolina by Dan 1. West of Dodge City. 2. Burdick. 3. Gardner Marker. 4. Olathe Marker. HISTORY ENACTED 105 Ramey, who drove an ox team all the way to Leaven worth, Kansas, in 1855. Another curiosity was the largest pair of elk's horns in the West, owned by Newton Ainsworth, who came to Lone Elm Camp Ground and located a claim near by, in 1857. A neat little booklet published by Mr. Ainsworth, with an account of the ceremonies, is one of the treasures of the Historian's box. The school children of Lone Elm and also of Clare school-house, with their teachers, took an active part on the program. Among the speakers was Sena tor Geo. H. Hodges, of Olathe, who since then has been elected Governor of Kansas. Mrs. J. P. St. John spoke for the D. A. R. and as others spoke for the State, etc., she thought that some praise was due to the Daughters of the American Revolution in Kansas, who by their untiring efforts had made possible the occasion they' then celebrated, by their reclaiming the old Trail from the past, and leadership in the work of erecting these markers of the Trail which are at once guide-posts and monuments. The city of Olathe has a very handsome marker in the courthouse grounds, which was erected by the citi zens and the Old Settlers' Association of Johnson county. The central feature of the marker is the bronze tablet used by the D. A. R. and the State of Kansas. Below that is the inscription, "Erected by Johnson County and the Old Settlers' Association, 1907. " Carved at the top is an old ox-yoke, and the chain follows back ' of the inscription to the bottom. This tablet marks the scene of Civil War troubles, as 106 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL Olathe was the rendezvous of the Kansas soldiers dur ing the Price Raid in 1864. A marker stands at the school-house grounds at cross-roads, just half-way between Olathe and Gardner, set by the D. A. R., and unveiled with appropriate cer emonies by old settlers and school children, many tell ing the tales of Border Ruffian days here. In Gardner, also the scene of Civil War troubles, is another handsome marker, erected by the Johnson County Old Settlers' Association, and bearing the bronze plate. The Daughters' marker at the next place, Lanesfield, two and a half miles northeast of Edgerton, marks a spot that all travelers of the Trail will remember. This marker has the distinction of being the second one set in the State. It stands on one corner of the school- grounds, and was unveiled with appropriate exercises. I. C. Pickering, of Olathe, and V. R. Ellis, of Gardner, made addresses, and other speakers were A. B. Dille, Jonathan Milligan, Florence McCarthy, Jacob Smith, and Robert Stine, of Franklin County. Mrs. Belle Hill gave an interesting paper on "The Old Trail." Black Jack, the historical battle-ground of the John Brown days, has the next marker on the great highway. Here John Brown with Captain Shore's company from Prairie City, the Palmyra force, and Captain Bell's Black Jack Rangers, reinforced by a dozen men from Osawatomie, on June 2nd, 1856, whipped Colonel H. Clay Pate and his Missouri patriots, who had come over to harass Free-State men in Kansas, and made him sur render his entire command, consisting of 28 men. HISTORY ENACTED 107 The handsome marker which marks the old Trail at Palmyra, now Baldwin, was erected by the Ottawa and Lawrence Chapters, and stands in a small tract of ground, a gift to the city, which shall be known as Trail Park. The history of Palmyra should be written in full. It was known as the "repair stop" even in the earliest days, and here many blacksmiths and wagon- makers were kept busy repairing damages and seeing that everything was in good order to withstand the long hard trip. The Bodwell brothers, Ed and Lee, were the leaders in this work. Here, almost the exact spot where the marker stands, on June 5th, 1856, the two armies, — the Free-State leaders and the Missouri border crowd — met face to face. Governor Shannon was alarmed and appealed to the Government for troops. Colonel Sumner responded, sent the belliger ents home, and released the prisoners that John Brown had taken in the battle of the 2nd. Following the trail northwesterly, we find at Brook lyn a marker, and to the thoughtful it will stand for the horrors of the retreat from Lawrence of Quantrill after his memorable raid on Lawrence on the 21st of August, 1863. A few miles on, we find a marker at Willow Springs. This little town was robbed by Col. Pate and his band of ruffians, early in 1856, and a few weeks afterward he returned and burned the town. Its first post master was appointed in 1855, when the town was called Davis. The next marker, at Globe, has a similar history be hind it. 108 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL Half-way between Globe and Overbrook, a marker was placed at the famous Flag Springs, where canteens were filled. A handsome marker is found at Overbrook, and was unveiled with very impressive ceremonies. They were in charge of an old settler, S. L. Hebling, and the prin cipal address was by George P. Morehouse, an old-time resident of the Trail at Council Grove. Other old set tlers present were E. E. Gardner, J. Y. Urie, Marshall Dodder, and John Kinney. Like the Overbrook marker, those at Scranton and Carbondale mark either camping-places or crossings. Scranton is near the old 110 Creek crossing, the creek having been thus named because it is 110 miles from Independence, Mo. In the center of the town of Burlingame, at the in tersection of Santa Fe and Topeka avenues, stands the beautiful monument erected by the Topeka Chapter in memory of Mrs. Fannie Geiger Thompson. Burlingame has a very interesting history in connec tion with the Trail. -One writer said: "Probably no point on the Trail has seen the rise and fall of so many boom cities. Council City, as Burlingame was once called, was mapped out by the American Settlement Company, but it failed to progress. Then the name was changed to Burlingame — and this has proved more successful." In the center of the town was a fine well, the watering-place for miles around in the dry sea sons. During the Civil War this well was walled around, to protect it from attack and ruin.- Another marker in Osage county is four and one- HISTORY ENACTED 109 half miles west of Burlingame, and marks the crossing of Soldier creek or Switzler creek. It was here that the Daughters wanted the Santa Fe Railway to place a marker, as the railroad crosses right over the old ford. Wabaunsee county was crossed only just a little in one corner by the Trail, but Wilmington was an im portant point and the citizens of the county had the monument placed and unveiled with impressive cere monies. The Leavenworth and Westport roads united a little east of the town. A stone hotel built in 1858 is near the marker, and the school-house built in 1870 is also near by. In Lyon county, the three markers, one at Elm creek crossing, one at the crossing of 142 creek (that distance from Independence), and one at Agnes City, have his tories of a more quiet nature than others, but all of necessary importance to the early traveler. As the Trail crosses into Morris county there are places of vital interest. The first marker we find at Santa Fe schoolhouse grounds, near Rock creek cross ing. This place was the scene of a dreadful event when cutthroats from Missouri murdered and robbed two prominent ranchmen and their families, in 1862. The marker in Council Grove marks the place of the council of the Commissioners of our Government with the Osage Indians, in August, 1825, and where the treaty was signed for the right of way on the Trail. There was a settlement at the place, where all cara vans camped and combined forces to make a more solid front against the Indians on the western plains, which trouble began here. Marker at Council Grove. Ex-Senator George P. Morehouse, (left.) Secretary George W. Martin, (right.) HISTORY ENACTED 111 On August 10th, 1907, at the identical spot where 82 years before the treaty with the Osage Indians pro viding for a right of way, was signed, and close by the Council Oak, still standing, the handsome marker se cured by the citizens of Council Grove was unveiled, and dedicated to the memory of all who "had passed that way in sorrow or joy," in the days of the old Trail's usefulness. Besides the regular inscription which is on all of the markers, this tells to the world that passes : " Council Grove. On this spot, August 10th, 1825, the treaty was made with the Osage In dians for the right of way of the Trail." Under this stone was placed a memorial history box prepared by Mr. George P. Morehouse, a pioneer settler of the city. The keys to the box will be kept in the Kansas State Historical collection at Topeka. Hon. George W. Martin gave the principal address of the afternoon. Mr. Morehouse gave a fine talk which interested all old and new settlers alike, as it bore directly on the history of the town and surrounding country. Post master R. M. Armstrong represented the D. A. R. We would like to give the history of the Grove as told by Mr. Morehouse, but space forbids. One thing of special interest told by Mr. Morehouse was that the Government paid the Indians $500 in money and $300 in merchandise for the "right of way forever." Mr. Morehouse said to the credit of the Osage Indians they did live up to their treaty and never bothered the whites, or preyed on commerce along the way. Be fore the treaty was signed the place was known as the The Council Oak, at Council Grove. HISTORY ENACTED 113 Grove or the Oak Grove. His tribute to the D. A. R. was : " The Daughters of the American Revolution and the State Historical Society are doing a worthy work in so permanently marking the Old Santa Fe Trail and important spots such as this one. In doing this they are commemorating the historic and stir ring events through which Kansas has passed in its growth from a wilderness to a mighty State ; they are preserving, by lasting memorials, material for the writers, historians and poets of the future. And they are not acting without a precedent, for in the fourth chapter of Joshua we read : 'And this shall be a sign among you, that when your children ask their fathers in the time to come, saying, What mean these stones? then ye shall answer them that these stones shall be for a memorial forever.' ' A poem by Mr. Morehouse. "The Old Council Oak," was a fitting close to his address. Five miles west of Council Grove, on the divide, is another marker, where section lines cross the Trail. Another is at Wilsey, near the railway station. The fifth marker in Morris county is at Diamond Springs, near the head of Diamond creek ; and this was the end of Anderson's raid in 1862. At the dedi cation of the marker, on April 25th, 1907, Mr. George Morehouse was the principal speaker. This place was called "The Diamond of the Plains." Mr. Morehouse said that there is evidence that this spring was used by prehistoric tribes, and was visited by Spanish explorers in the 16th century, but the first recorded name of the 114 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL spring was in the Government survey of 1825. It was always a favorite camping-ground. West of here were the homes of the Indians — Cheyennes, Comanches, Ki- owas and others. This camp was once a prominent stage station with several large buildings, all since de stroyed by outlaws. This famous place is now the home of a fertile stock ranch owned by the Whitings, who at the time of the dedication of the marker made all comers welcome to the celebration. At Burdick, a town in southwest Morris county, on a branch of the Santa Fe Railway which runs from Superior, Neb., to join the main line at Strong City, in Chase county, another marker was placed, with an all- day ceremony, on Friday, October 10, 1908. The marker stands on the old "Six-mile Ranch," one of the most historic spots in Trail days. The ranch is three and one-half miles due north of Burdick, at the head slope of Six-Mile creek, and about five miles south of Delevan. The deep furrows of the old Trail are still visible, and will be for many years to come. A sketch of the life of Charles Atkinson, the oldest settler, was read at the ceremonies. He was one who witnessed the raid and robbery of this station in the year 1863 by 600 Cheyenne Indians. The story of the Trail divides itself into two parts : that of the eastern stops and camping-grounds having been at the mercy of the border troubles in the fight for liberty in the Territory of Kansas ; and that beyond Council Grove to the west, the invaders being Indians. And here, too, the travelers began to see the animal life of the prairies, especially the great herds of buffalo. HISTORY ENACTED 115 At this marker dedication, ex-Senator George P. Morehouse gave an address. A box of historical pa pers, pictures, etc., was placed under the marker. The marker stands on the farm of J. W. Larsen, now, but this was the famous old farm of "Old Charley Owens," in early days. After the battle of the Kaws and Chey- ennes, near Council Grove, in 1868, the Cheyennes when retreating robbed the Owens family of everything they could carry away. Crossing over into Marion county, we come to an other famous spring — Lost Springs. There are many conflicting statements as to why it was so named. The place has two markers, one at the railroad park at the crossing of the Santa Fe and Rock Island railroads, given by the D. A. R. and the State ; and one which was erected by the Wichita Chapter D. A. R., in the City Hall park. At the dedication services of the latter, November 14th, 1908, Mr. George P. Morehouse (justly named the historian of the Trail) made an address. He spoke as follows in regard to the name : " There are sev eral reasons why this place was called Lost Springs. Probably it was from the fact that it failed to flow at times and afterwards burst forth as usual. This might have happened at some long droughty spell, and persons who were looking for the spring, which they had pre viously visited, or heard described, would naturally say it was lost. Others claim that it was so named for the reason that it refreshed and saved a party of travelers or hunters who were lost on the Plains. Some have said it was covered up or destroyed by Indians so that it 116 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL would not assist the white man crossing the Plains ; and there was something mysterious about its actions — running for some and dry for others. There is no doubt that the name came from the fact that certain Indians or other travelers across the Plains who had once camped there were unable to find the spring during some subsequent trip. Its ancient name given by the Indians was 'Nee-nee Yol-ly,' meaning 'Good Spring.' And later some of the tribe reported that ' Nee-nee Oke pi-yah,' or 'the spring is lost.' " In Mr. Morehouse's poem, "Lost Spring," he says : "This plate of bronze depicts an old-time scene, And set in granite slab so firm is placed Close by that grand old Trail where it will stand To tell its simple tale to old and young. It is a thoughtful gift from Wichita, Oft known as Peerless Princess of the Plains, Whose daughters fair, the D. A. R., now come To offer here a tribute to the past." The other markers in Marion county are placed as follows : One at "Moore's Ranch," the site of the first trading-post and postoffice in Marion county, one mile east of the town of Waldeck ; and the other at " George Miller's grave," on the McPherson county line, on land then belonging to M. M. Jones. This last marker is on a cement base, at the head of the grave of George Miller, who was killed at this point by Cheyenne In dians in 1865. His grave is at the top of a small knoll by the side of the trail. The grave has been kept in good shape, and was the starting-point for a country cemetery. HISTORY ENACTED 117 Crossing the county line into McPherson county, the first marker we see is set one mile north of the town of Canton. Madaris said in his letter about this part of the trail : "The trail crossed into Marion county about a mile south of the northeast corner of the county, thence southwesterly to Antelope hills, going into Mc Pherson county about the center of Township 19 and leaving the county near what is now Windom." The first marker in McPherson county, one mile north of Canton, is near the Santa Fe Railway to Den ver. This county has five markers. West of Canton, one was placed at the southwest corner of Section 9, and the next one at the southwest corner of Section 10. The inscription on the next marker shows it to be of special importance, as it reads: "Sora-Kansas Creek. Near this spot a council was held with Kaw Indians, and a treaty made for the right of way of the Santa Fe Trail." This marker was set with special services, on Friday, August 23rd, 1907. We are again indebted to Mr. George Morehouse, who was a member of the trail- marking committee from the State Historical Society, for the following about this spot, of which little history seemed to be known before this. Mr. Morehouse has lived all of his life on the Trail near Council Grove, and is an authority on its history. Mr. Morehouse says : "In looking up the records and surveys of the Trail and matters regarding the Council Grove council with the Osages, I ran across the interesting item of history, that a council was also held with the Kansa (or Kaw) Indians at a place then called Sora-Kansas creek, about 118 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL seventy miles west of Council Grove. From the maps and field-notes of the Government survey made in 1825- 27, which I have carefully examined, there can be no doubt that Sora-Kansas creek is Dry creek, which flows southward." This marker was placed on this spot, and again the good work of the D. A. R. was demonstrated, for an important historical event of as much worth to history as the council at Council Grove, was thus discovered and marked. It is easy to locate, as it is three miles south of the old crossing over Dry Turkey creek and six miles south of the present town of McPherson. Sora-Kansas creek has been lost to history by being called Dry Turkey creek now. Why don't the settlers there change it to its original name ? Another marker in this county was placed at Win dom, almost on the west line of the county. Passing on, with our interest growing at every marker, we follow the trail into Rice county. The large marker half-way between Lyons and Sterling was the first in the State to be set. The Sterling Chapter D. A. E., with Mrs. C. W. Smyser as Regent, assisted by the clubs and other citizens of the county, furnished this one. But before we reach this one we pass those at Cow creek crossing, Jarvis creek, Flum Butte (where a large wagon train was burned and alj.-pf the people killed or captured by Indians), and the Stone Corral, — all, as Secretary Martin said, "with their' tales and tra ditions, legends and lore, embracing humorous, pathetic and tragical events that should not be forgotten." HISTORY ENACTED 119 Mr. Dan M. Bell, an old traveler on the Trail, and who was married on the Trail, drove the stake for the marker erected by Lyons and Sterling. Mr. Bell says in a letter : " In reply to your letter will say I was mar ried to Mary M. Hanks on the evening of April 19th, 1872, by the light of the moon, on horseback, on the Santa F6 Trail on the banks of Little Cow creek. At that time the Trail was the only road through the county east and west. In April, 1871, 1 bought a team at Lawrence, Kansas, and followed the old Trail to Rice county. At that time the old Stone Corral at Little river was in fair condition. After we struck the trail west of Cottonwood Falls, it was open all the way through. At that time there was considerable travel over the Trail." At Chase stands another marker placed by the State, the D. A. R., and citizens of the town. In Barton county we find the first marker at the city of Ellinwood. And when about two and a half miles east of Great Bend, travelers will see on a prominent place not far from the railroad (Santa Fe) an old Span ish war cannon mounted on a pedestal of stone. This marker was erected by the citizens of Barton county to mark the former home of old Fort Zarah, the first of the western forts. When the D. A. R. had their penny collection asking each child in the State to contribute at least one penny to the fund for marking the trail, the Barton county citizens kept the amount given by the school children of that county, and, with other con tributions from their own citizens, erected this marker, and had it unveiled with elaborate exercises. 120 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL The D. A. R. and State markers are placed one and a half miles east of Great Bend, and one in Santa Fe Depot Park in the city of Great Bend. Almost to the line into Pawnee we find one in the little town of Paw nee Rock, and just beyond in the distance can be seen the remains of old Pawnee Rock, the most thrillingly historic spot on the entire trail. On the monument on the Rock itself, in Pawnee county, is a handsome bronze tablet erected by the D. A. R. and the State of Kansas, and pointing its white shaft-finger to the sky is the monument erected by the Women's Kansas Day Club, D. A. R., Women's Relief Corps, and the Women's Christian Temperance Union. So much is told in the chapter on "The Marking of Old Pawnee Rock," that it will not be necessary to give the history here, only that, rising from a sandy, wind-swept plain, it was a great camping-place and lookout for protection from Indians. Pawnee county is filled with historic places. One of the regulation size monuments stands between the old Trail and the Santa Fe Railway in Section 13. The next we find in the city park in the town of Larned — a town with a thrilling history. It was the outgrowth of civilization settling near the protection of the sol diers at old Fort Larned, where the Government had stationed soldiers for the protection of travelers along the Trail, during Indian troubles. Mr. E. C. Campbell, of Hutchinson, a former paymaster at Fort Larned, has written a fine account of the early days of the Fort. "The first fort," says Mr. Campbell, "on the HISTORY ENACTED 121 Trail after leaving Council Grove was Fort Zarah, on the Arkansas river, at the mouth of Walnut creek, near the present town of Great Bend. Thirty -two miles west, on the Pawnee Fork, and six miles west of its junction with the Arkansas river, Fort Larned was located. About fifty-five miles due west, Fort Dodge was established after the previously built post of Fort Adkinson was abandoned. Then a stretch of a hun dred miles, more or less, and the post of Fort Lyons was built near the old Indian trading-post known as 'Bent's Fort.' The greatest danger of the whole line from Indian surprise and attack, lay between Forts Zarah and Larned, the very heart of the buffalo range." The marker at Fort Larned stands on the old parade ground. Besides the usual inscription, it tells a little of the history of the fort, which was "established in October, 1859, and was known as Camp on the Pawnee Fork. Name changed to Camp Alert in 1860, in Feb ruary, and in June of the same year it received the present name of Fort Larned. It was abandoned as a fort in 1884." The Trail crosses the Pawnee river (or Fork) just east of the fort. The other markers in this county are one in the old Fort Larned burying-ground, and the other in the present town of Garfield, in their city park. In Edwards county there are two distinct trails, one called the wet-weather trail, and there are two mark ers there, while on what was called the river trail, go ing northwest, there are three. The most prominent marker is in Kinsley, and this one was dedicated on the Old Fort Larned Marker. HISTORY ENACTED 123 thirty-third anniversary of the organization of Edwards county. On June 18, 1848, at the place where the marker stands, 800 Comanche Indians attacked 76 Missouri volunteers on their way to Mexico, the latter armed with breech-loading carbines. It was a desper ate charge, but sixty-two Indians were buried in the sand near by. Mr. W. A. Madaris said : "The freight ers' troubles began at Sandy, grew on them at Fort Zarah, doubled up at Great Bend, and increased from there to Fort Bent." The first of the five markers in Ford county is two miles west of the east county line, on a hill — about the only hill around for miles. Another marker stands on the road from Speareville; another, one mile east of Kansas Old Soldiers' Home ; a handsome one on the old Trail is in the center of the city hail square in Dodge City (formerly Fort Dodge) ; another is on a high point of rock near the west county line, a favorite lookout place on the trail. Robert M. Wright, of Dodge City, is the historian of the Trail in this county, and as he has lived on the Trail and traveled it fifty -five years ago, he is compe tent to tell the truth of the days of long ago. Mr. Wright, who was a member of the Trail-marking com mittee from the State Historical Society, has written a history of Dodge City, which in the early days was known as "the wicked city of the plains," and his book, "The Cowboy Capital," is very interesting read ing. Mr. Wright wrote for us the following story of the history of the places where the Dodge City markers stand : 124 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL THE STORY OF TWO TRAIL-MARKERS. About the first of May, 1866, there was not a pound of hay or other long feed, and very little grain for the horses and mules at Fort Dodge ; so it was customary, early every morning, to turn the Government stock out to graze. Of course there was always a guard with them, consisting usually of three soldiers. The morn ing in question Colonel Thompson's Seventh Cavalry troop of one hundred horses were put out to graze. There had not been an Indian seen for a long time, but when the herd of horses had been grazing a few hours, a small band of Indians sneaked down the hollow where the wet and dry routes intersected, just one mile east of Fort Dodge, and quicker than lightning surrounded the herd of horses and drove them off. One soldier of the guard jumped into the Arkansas river, which was at flood, and was killed ; another swam across the river and got away. An Indian shot all his arrows into the back of the third soldier and then pursued him to the fort, trying to get possession of his horse. The soldier was mortally wounded, but managed to keep his seat in the saddle, and, splendidly mounted, rode straight toward the fort like the wind. The Indian, on a much inferior horse, kept as close alongside as possible, beating the soldier over the head with his bow, in an effort to knock him off his horse, and frequently spurring up by the side of the soldier's horse and grabbing at the bridle-rein, try ing to get a hold upon it. If he had succeeded in doing this, he could have wheeled and led the horse away, and HISTORY ENACTED 125 the soldier would have been at his mercy. It was a splendid horse, and the Indian was taking great chances to get it, but he did not succeed in reaching the bridle, and the exciting race continued until the Indian had chassd the soldier right up to the Fort, across the pa rade-grounds, and within a hundred yards of the hos pital, for which place the wounded man was riding. He succeeded in reaching the door of the hospital, and was lifted out of his saddle, but died in two hours. I still have the fatal arrow that killed him. Before his death he said that he recognized the Indian as Satanta, but Satanta would never acknowledge the deed. The guards connected with this Indian foray had been careless and had left their carbines in their cases and strapped to the front of their saddles. The dash of the Indians was so sudden that there was no chance to get the carbines out of their cases in time for any defense. Upon the site of this raid is where we placed one of the Santa Fe trail markers. Only a very short distance, not a hundred yards, from this marker near Fort Dodge, is where old Ralph was killed. One very cloudy morning, when a dense fog covered the whole Arkansas river bottom, a band of Indians sneaked down the same hollow already men tioned, and speared the old man while he was on his knees, skinning a wolf that he had caught in a steel trap. They left the poor old gray -haired hunter and mountaineer stretched out on his back, minus his scalp. I was on the spot soon after the tragedy occurred, and it was a horrible-looking sight. At the same place, Marker and Old-Timers, at Dodge City. Sitting, from loft to right — Charley Good, John Riney, A. J. Anthony, Brick Bond, Sam Gallagher, Mayor H. B. Bell, R. M. Wright. HISTORY ENACTED 127 these Indians crawled into a camp of Government teams, consisting of several hundreds of wagons and mules, cut loose about a hundred of the mules from where they were tied to the wagons by their halters, and began waving their buffalo robes and blankets and giving the war-whoop to stampede the rest of the mules. Almost before the teamsters were aware of anything wrong, the loose stock was stampeding and the waving blankets and the yells startled the whole camp, and made hundreds of the frightened animals that were tied break loose and join the stampede. The Indians gath ered up the most of them and got away with them some time before it could be made known to the troops at the fort, not more than a mile distant. Two companies of the Seventh Cavalry put out after the redskins, but never overtook them. I tell you, that camp was a bedlam for a few minutes while the Indians were on the scene. As the teamsters remarked, "There was h — 1 to pay for certain!" Everything was topsy turvy; empty wagons were overturned, and the drivers were panic-stricken, running hither and yon, worse frightened than the mules, if such a thing could be. So much for the Trail-marker at the intersection of the old wet and dry routes, near Fort Dodge. The second of the two markers forming the subject of this sketch is placed almost in front of the city hall, right in the middle of the old Trail, in one of Dodge City's principal streets. A few hundred yards east of this marker was a great watering-place, as the river formerly 128 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL swung around and hugged the bank closely. Here, also, was a great camping-place on the old Trail, which af forded great grazing for stock. Many times, in cross ing the Plains, have I stopped and watered here, and the Santa Fe coach always watered here. (Signed) Robert M. Wright. Gray county has four markers, the principal one be ing in the city of Cimarron, at the intersection of Main street and Avenue A. It is near the site of a favorite camping-ground. In the eastern part of Gray county the trail divided, the oldest and original trail going north of the Arkansas river. In 1829, a shorter route was discovered, which crossed the river in Gray county and went in a southwesterly direction. In Finney county, on the northern route, were placed five markers, all on the public highway of today, and the most of them on or near school-grounds. They are placed at Pierceville, Harmony, Garden City, Dis trict No. 51, and Sherlock district. The work of get ting the markers was in charge of the County Superin tendent, H.P. Nichols, who said that he thoroughly be lieved in developing within the minds of the young, reverence and interest in the reminiscent and historical, and that his plan for marking the Trail in their county would do so. The children were so active in aiding the restorers of the traces of the old Trail, that five markers instead of the expected three were placed, each with special ceremonies. At the dedication of the Har mony school-house marker, Mr. George W. Martin, Captain E. J. Pyle and C. J. Jones made the addresses. history enacted 129 In the next county on the northern trail, Kearny, there are five markers placed at former camping- grounds or scenes of Indian troubles. They are placed as follows : Two in the town of Lakin, Deerfield has one, school-grounds in Section 17, and the other in Hartland. The last county on the old north trail is Hamilton, and is on the Colorado line. Here five markers were sent, and located as follows : One in Kendall ; one in Syracuse, exactly on the trail at the corner of Main and Logan streets, where the ruts of the old trail are still to be seen ; one at Coolidge, near the Santa Fe depot ; and one near the center of Section 23. No report was ever given of the fifth marker. Nearly all of the mark ers on the northern route are visible from the trains on the main line of the Santa Fe to Denver. After leaving Gray county on the southern route, we find in Haskell county four markers, one just north of the town of Colusa, two north and near the county seat, Santa Fe, and another near Conductor, at the west county line. The two near Santa Fe are where the Trail crosses section lines and are placed diagonally across from each other. The people in the counties on the southern trail deserve great credit in placing the markers, as they had no railroad facilities then, and the stones made very heavy hauling such a long way from the railroad. The two near Santa Fe were set with the usual cere mony on May 11th, 1907. A history of Haskell county was placed in the tin box under the cement base of the stones. 130 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL In Grant county there are three markers, the most prominent place being Wagonbed Springs, a noted watering-place and camping-ground. The others are, one at southeast corner of Section 9 and the other on the northeast corner of Section 3. The trail following the Cimarron river is found only for a few miles in Stevens county, the northwest corner, and only one marker is there. To Morton county, the very corner county of the State, five markers were sent, and as far as known are located as follows : One as the Trail enters the county on the east, and one on the State line on the west. The others occupy central places. Mr. Alex. R. John son, of Morton county, sends us the following in re gard to the marker at Point of Rocks, Morton county : "The marker on Section 12, Township 34, Range 43, is at ' Point of Rocks ; ' the one on Section 7, Town ship 34, Range 43, is on the Kansas-Colorado State line." The marker set at Point of Rocks was the last one to be set in this county, and probably in the State of Kansas. Mr. E. M. Dean, of Richfield, writes of re cent date : "These markers were sent to Morton county several years ago, and three of them were placed ; the other two — that is, the one at Point of Rocks and the one on the State line — were not placed until last spring (1914), when myself and a few others in this county interested ourselves in getting them properly located. HISTORY enacted 131 The citizens of Morton county who were active in this matter were : Mayo Thomas, of Elkhart ; Perry Biite, who lives at Point of Rocks ; Lee Moore, Ernest Wil son, and John Bartholemew, of Richfield, and myself. The stone was set on Point of Rocks on the 26th day of April, 1914. It is placed on a rocky point about fifty feet above the north bank of the Cimarron river, and is located five and a half miles from the west line of the State, being seven and a half miles from the Oklahoma State line. It is right on the old Trail. On the cement base are the following inscriptions : ' Mis souri river, 550 Miles ; Santa Fe, 226 Miles. Surveyed in September, 1825.' On the cement base, also, is the Square and Compass, the Masonic emblem, for the reason that we men who set it are all Masons." A noted camping-ground near by is a place called Middle Spring, and the only one in what is now Morton county. The camping-ground at the base of Point of Rocks was known to the Mexican freighters as "Mesa Blanco." In the counties of the southwest the trails are broken on account of so many creeks, and are probably the result of the travelers' efforts to keep near water in the dry season and away from it during flood times. Morton county had many small creeks and two branches of the Cimarron river to contend with. As one looks at the map of Kansas now it would seem an easy matter to retrace the old trail by coun ties, but it must be remembered that in the earliest '^¦SC Point of Rocks and Old Trail, in Morton County. history enacted 133 days of travel there were no counties at all, and later the counties in the western part were very large. Farms with wheat -fields and corn-fields cover the old Trail in many places now, so it took infinite patience and much consulting of local notes of history and the memories of the old Trail travelers to finally wrest from almost oblivion, the pathway of the ancient travel. And the Trail did not only make Kansas history — it made the connecting link between the settling of the West by the people of the East. And as those early travelers prized the old Trail as a road to the future, we hope the people of years to come will use it and keep its early history in remembrance. 134 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL CHAPTER XIV. SECRETARY MARTIN'S REPORT. In December, 1907, Secretary George W. Martin in his annual report of the Kansas State Historical So ciety had a very complete record of the marking of the Old Trail, and where the markers are placed. The Daughters had already received a copy of this report. The following bill had been approved by the State Regent, Mrs. Stanley : The Slate of Kansas, The Kansas Daughters of the American Revolution, debtors to George W. Marlin, Secretary of the State Historical Society: August 7.— To 30 markers for the Santa Fe Trail, at $16 each, $480. 00 August 7. — To the price of three extra markers for the Council Grove marker 48.00 August 7. — To freight prepaid as follows : Missouri Pa cific to Admire, $5.04; Council Grove, $5.75; Overbrook, $2.50 13.29 August 7. — To expense setting special marker in McPherson County 5.00 Total $546.29 EXPLANATION. 59 markers were paid for out of the State appropriation of $1,000. 6 special markers placed by the Daughters of the American Revo lution, individual chapters. 30 markers placed by the Conference of the Kansas D. A. R. Total, 95 markers placed along the Trail in Kansas. The Legislature named the counties through which the Trail should be marked, and all but three — Frark- lin, Dickinson, and Hodgeman — (neither of these touch- SECRETARY MARTIN S REPORT 135 ing the trail) received four to six markers each. The State appropriation was expended as follows : 1906. Oct. 13. — To ten granite boulders •To thirty-five granite boulders •To prepaid freight on Rock Island to Marion . To setting markers in Rice County Dec. 18 Dec. 18 Dec. 18 1907. June 11 June 11 June 11 June 11 June 11 June 11 -To freight on marker to Council Grove . . . -To freight on marker to Comiskey -To setting markers in Lyon County -To B. F. Dole, hauling marker, Waldeck. -To fourteen markers at $16 each -To postage $ 160 00 560 00 4 11 16 00 2 53 2 50 13 00 4 60 224 00 13 36 Total $1,000.00 Mr. Martin then gives in his report a list of all of the markers, the counties, and the names of those who had charge of the setting of them. As we have covered most of these matters in the preceding chapter, we will make but brief mention of them here. Johnson county has seven markers, five furnished by the Daughters and two by citizens of the county. The latter cost $300 each, and Mr. D. Hubbard took charge of the one at Olathe and Mr. V. R." Ellis the one at Gardner. Douglas county has five markers, and the expenses were borne by the County Commissioners. The com mittee in charge included Mrs. C. C. Seewir, Mrs. Clarence Hall, and Mrs. Paul R. Brooks, of Lawrence Chapter. The Black Jack marker was set by Mr. H. H. Hays ; the Brooklyn marker by Mr. W. A. Pardee ; Willow Springs by Mr. E. H. VanHoesen ; near Globe, by Mr. August Hock and Mr. William Featherstone. 136 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL A sixth marker was placed by the Daughters of the Lawrence and Ottawa Chapters, at Baldwin. Osage county has five markers, one each at Carbondale, Scranton and Burlingame, and two at Overbrook. The Old Settlers' Association paid the expenses, and A. J. Wilbur, S. L. Heberling, E. M. Gardner, P. W. Robi son, Mrs. J. T. Pringle, Thomas Black and T. L. Mar shall were interested and active in the work. Wabaunsee county is touched but slightly by the trail in the southeast corner, and the marker at Wil mington was set about the middle of June, 1907, on a foundation of rock and cement, upon which was also a limestone rock. Mr. F. L. Hinshaw, Superintendent of Public Instruction, had charge of the marker, and the County Commissioners paid all expenses. In Lyon county, C. D. Hornbeck, of Admire, re ceived and cared for the three markers, and located them as follows : One at the crossing of Elm creek, one at the crossing of 142 creek, and the other at Agnes City. Mr. Hornbeck planted an evergreen tree at the side of each marker. The trail through Lyon county almost paralleled the north county line, hence there was little interest in the marking and Mr. Hornbeck was compelled to write : "As our people here show no disposition toward placing the markers, I ask if you will allow the necessary expense of setting them?" This was done. In Morris county the six markers were placed under the direction of Mr. George P. Morehouse, with the assistance of many local friends. The principal and SECRETARY MARTIN S REPORT 137 largest is the one at Council Grove, where the famous council with the Osages was held in 1825. Marion county has four markers from the State and Daughters fund, and another placed by the Eunice Sterling Chapter, of Wichita, at Lost Springs. George B. Shirk cared for the other marker at Lost Springs. W. D. Armstrong placed the marker on the site of the first trading-post and postoffice in Marion county, known then as Moore's Ranch. M. L. Clark, of Can ton, placed the marker for Marion county on the line of that county and McPherson county, — George Mil ler's grave. The other marker was cared for by B. F. Dole at Dole's Park, and was placed where the main road, coming into Waldeck from the east, crosses the old Trail. McPherson county has five markers, the expense of which was assumed by the Women's Relief Corps of McPherson, and other neighborhood interests. T. O. Coons received and cared for four of them. One on the main traveled road from Canton to Newton was cared for by A. E. Duvall, editor of the Canton "Pilot." The special marker in this county is at Sora-Kansas creek crossing. At the unveiling of this one, addresses were made by A. C. Spilman, A. W. Smith, and Sec retary Martin. The people of Windom, on the west side of the county, set the marker on the northwest corner of Section 20. The Rice county markers were the first in place, be ing set in the fall of 1906. These were paid for out of the State appropriation, and the sites are prominent 138 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL points on the old Trail. The usual number, five, was allowed, and the citizens of Chase wanted one. This marker was cared for by William Kenton and the citi zens of Chase paid the expense of setting. The largest marker in this county was erected by the Sterling Chap ter and the clubs and citizens of Sterling and Lyons, and the marker is half-way between these two places. The amount of sixteen dollars was allowed from the State fund for expenses. Barton has had the Trail marked by four stones and an old Spanish cannon. The county itself erected the cannon, using the ninety dollars the county children raised on Trail Day. The cannon and the freight from Florida amounted to over $200. Local friends set the markers sent them, with Senator G. L. Chapman and C. R. Aldrich aiding in the work. Pawnee county received five markers, which were taken care of by E. E. Frizell, A. A. Thorp, and J. D. McConnaughay, the County Commissioners paying ex penses. Of Edwards county's five markers, three are on the river trail and two on the hill trail. The County Commissioners paid the expense of the setting, and D. D. Baxter and J. M. Lewis looked after the busi ness. The principal marker adjoins the city of Kinsley. Ford county has five markers, which were taken charge of by Chalk M. Beeson, A. J. Anthony, Andy Johnson, and Robert M. Wright. Mr. Wright wrote : " We found very suitable places — they all came in nicely. The west stone we placed on a very high point SECRETARY MARTIN'S REPORT 139 of rock. The trail hugged this rock closely ; you can almost jump from the rock and strike the trail. The point overlooks the whole country around. One we placed in front of our city hall [Dodge City], right in the center of the old Trail. One on a beautiful high point one mile west of the Soldiers' Home, where the river and dry route intersected. One on the main road to Speareville — a conspicuous place, and the last one on a high hill, two miles west of our east county line. This is the only hill in this part of the country — it overlooks the great sandhills in the big bend of the Arkansas river, and on a clear day you can see from its top, Fort Larned, over thirty-five miles in the dis tance. We had no trouble in following the trail even through the plowed lands and wheat-fields ; in many places it was very distinct. Many times did I think, the two days we were out, that here my footprints had been forty-eight years ago, because the first time I crossed the Plains I walked and drove a bull-team every step of the way. A. H. Anthony was a messen ger on the Barlow, Sanderson & Co. stage line from 1863 to 1869. C. M. Beeson first struck the trail in 1868 and Andy Johnson in 1870. So you see we were all old-timers." Gray county has four markers, and these were looked after by Charles G. Isely, of Cimarron, and D. W. Barton, of Ingalls. Finney county's markers, five in number, were cared for by H. P. Nichols, County Superintendent of Schools. The Trail divided in Gray county east of Finney county. 140 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL The original Trail was north of the Arkansas river, but in 1829 a shorter route was discovered, leaving the valley and crossing the river a short distance west of Dodge, or in Gray county. The people in Finney county think of adding a line in the inscription on their markers to indicate the fact that there were two roads, and that the one north of the river was the orig inal one. Kearny county has five markers. The County Com missioners paid for the expense of setting them and F. L. Pierce, County Clerk, gave prompt and efficient at tention to the task. Hamilton county, the last county on the northern route, has five markers, which were shipped to Henry Block, of Syracuse. The marker there was set in a concrete base, and dedicated on July 4th, 1907. One marker was not heard from. Haskell county, the third county from the west State line on the south trail, received four markers. They were looked after by A. J. Hedger, County Superin tendent of Schools. Mr. Hedger recently received a gold medal and $3600 from the Carnegie fund for res cuing a man from a caved-in well. Grant county has three markers, which were shipped to E. F. Towler, of Ulysses. One was marked for Wag onbed Springs. Ulysses is about twenty -five miles from the railroad, and the friends out there are entitled to admiration for the extra trouble and expense they assumed. The County Commissioners paid the bills. Stevens county has but one marker, as the Trail f ol- SECRETARY MARTIN'S REPORT 141 lowed the Cimarron river across one corner. Mr. R. T. Beaty, one of the County Commissioners, assumed the expense of hauling this marker from the railroad at Lakin, and setting it. Morton county has five markers. The County Com missioners assumed the expense of transporting the stones from the railroad and setting them. Fred G. Glen, County Clerk, gave prompt assistance. The Trail for the first twelve miles in this county is alto gether, except for a short distance, about five miles from the east line of the county, where there is a short branch of the Cimarron river, for water. For the re mainder of the distance across the county there are practically two trails, one following the river-bottom, or close to it, and the other keeping parallel to the river at a distance of two miles or so. There are connecting roads everywhere, and appearances indicate the main trail for the last one-third of the way across the county to be the river-bottom one. The people of Morton county, being far from the railroad, had about sixty miles of hauling to do, which speaks well for their in terest in the work. Mr. Martin said in his report that: "It will be ob served that in Kansas both Trails are marked, the orig inal Trail along the north bank of the Arkansas river, and the cut-off from Cimarron southwest and through Morton county. The Daughters of the American Rev olution in Colorado secured from their Legislature an appropriation of $2000 to mark the Trail and they have continued our line of markers. The contention is made 142 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL in that State that there was practically no trail at all north of the Arkansas, west of Cimarron, and that the Trail proper was over the Cimarron river route, cross ing the Arkansas river in Gray county. To justify the action of Kansas in marking the route north of the river, I deemed it necessary to examine two witnesses, and with all Kansans they will be sufficient. Mr. Rob ert M. Wright, of Ford county, is one, and Patrick Sherman, depot-master for the Santa Fe in Topeka and once a teamster and wagon-master on the Trail from 1858 to 1866, the other." Mr. Martin closed his final report with the statement : "The task has been a most inspiring one. The mark ers have excited an historical interest never before reached. It is said that in some neighborhoods people drive miles out of their way to see the markers. They have prompted local history. The best money the Legislature expends is that given to the purpose of per petuating heroic incident, inculcating patriotism, and local and State pride, resulting in an interested and enthusiastic citizenship." To the Daughters of the American Revolution in Kansas, alone, is due the marking of the Santa Fe Trail, not only in Kansas but in the sister States, Col orado and Missouri, who marked the Trail in those State after Kansas had completed hers. Now when all of the States are telling of their old trails and planning for them to be a part of the ocean- to-ocean road, due credit must always be given to the hard, determined efforts of the Kansas Daughters, for SECRETARY MARTIN'S REPORT 143 they were the pioneers in the movement of honoring the old trails, and the people who passed their way. It is the regret of the present Historian, that in the year 1912, six years after the marking of the Trail, she writes the history of the Daughters' work, compiling as best she could from old and often faded letters, reports and minutes of Conference and Chapter meetings, — the story she has told here. There were very few typewritten letters then, and the women had not learned to be businesslike in their letters, and the reading of the vast amount of correspondence often yielded few data necessary to the story. If there are mistakes, or if there are things omitted, blame only the source of her knowledge. She has tried to make everything ac curate, proving all dates and names by Kansas history and State Historical reports, and it was a task almost equal to the real marking of the Trail. To the State Historical Society, the Daughters give boundless gratitude for its loyal help in the trail-mark ing, and to the State of Kansas they will ever give the true loyal help in caring for the State's treasures of history, that the State gave them to make this grand work the success it is. Old Sod House. Last House on Trail in Morton County. THE SAVING OF OLD PAWNEE ROCK 145 CHAPTER XV. THE SAVING OF OLD PAWNEE ROCK. When the Daughters of the American Revolution of Kansas began talking of marking the Old Santa Fe Trail through Kansas, and plans were being made to trace the correct route, a cry went up to the Regent and State Historical Society, " Save Old Pawnee Rock ! " Long before the white man came to live upon the sunny plains of Kansas, the Indian tribes had made use of the rock rising abruptly from the plains in Barton county (only there were no counties out there then), as a place for signal-fires and an advantageous look-out to keep watch for friend or foe. At its base, bloody battles were fought between the tribes, one memorable one giving it the name it now bears — from the tribe which won — the Pawnees. Later, the Santa Fe" Trail wound its way at the base of the rock, and it became a veri table "Rock of Ages" to many a train of pioneers. Soldiers and settlers carved their names on the Rock, and names illustrious in history today were left there to tell of their owners' visits. Soon, as civilization reached the rock, the owner of the farm on which it stands found it was good building material, — and, re gardless of its historic memories, began quarrying it away, and even had a rock-crusher there in order to turn the old landmark into dollars. And so the carved 146 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL names were lost. A town has been built not far from it, and is named Pawnee Rock. A press clipping says : "Pawnee Rock is one single cliff of rock, which the red man could climb upon and view the country for miles over the Arkansas, Ash, and Walnut valleys, and see the white man approach ing. It was through this region, hugging the margin of the silent Arkansas, and running under the very shadow of Pawnee Rock, that the old Santa Fe Trail wound its way. In those days this was considered the most dangerous point along the trail. It was here that Kit Carson shot his mule for an Indian, and here "Buffalo Bill" was once captured. It was the battle that followed the next two days, between the whites and the Pawnee Indians, after Carson shot his mule, that gave the Rock its name." [A mistake, as the Rock was named for the Indian battle, which took place earlier. — Historian.] "It would have been a very interesting scene to witness, if one could have stood on the rock and watched the Indians in their many conflicts and their chases after buffalo." The following letter to Governor Hoch, who once lived near the old Rock, under date of July 23, 1905, from the town of Pawnee, is one of many received by Mrs. Stanley, State Regent, and Miss Meeker, State Secretary, in regard to the preservation of the old Rock. The letter from T. H. Brewer is as follows : "The prevailing sentiment now seems to be to pre serve historical spots, especially along the Old Santa THE SAVING OF OLD PAWNEE ROCK 147 F£ Trail. Some of the most noted landmarks are be ing destroyed through the avarice and unpatriotic, graspirig covetousness of the present day. One of the most noted old landmarks of the Old Santa Fe Trail is Pawnee Rock, in the southwest corner of Barton county, close to the town of the same name. But it, as a land mark, is fast being obliterated. Hundreds of names have already been blotted away, though there are quite a few left yet. But it will not be long until they are all gone, at the present rate of destruction now prac ticed by the owner. I see that the State (or I am under such an impression) has made an appropriation to mark the Trail. If so, don't you think it would be ad visable to buy this old Rock as one of the most promi nent marks of said Trail? You have seen it in about its original shape, and know something of how it looked. Inman's history of the Santa Fe Trail mentioned Paw nee Rock as one of the special landmarks. It was close here, after a fight held around the Rock, that two men were captured by Indians, and their lives were spared by the younger of the two ' running the gauntlet ' and coming out without a scratch. They were allowed to proceed on their way unmolested. Now if the State has made an appropriation for preserving the old land marks, we think that the remainder of this rock should be preserved." (Signed) T. H. Brewer, Pawnee Rock. Miss Meeker wrote in reply to this letter, which was sent to her after the Regent had read it, telling Mr. 148 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL Brewer how small the appropriation was, and how they hoped to increase it. She suggested that if his county could raise the money to buy the rock, there would be no objection to putting a tablet on it and using it for a monument. She also suggested that it might be pos sible to put the fund to be raised by the children in his county, into such an enterprise. She offered to lay any plans and suggestions he might offer, before the com mittee, and also asked him to write out any incidents in regard to the rock he might know to help the school children in their essays. Mrs. Carrie G. Shaw, of Hiawatha, was appointed on the D. A. R. section of the Trail Committee in the fall of 1905, her special work being to do something to save Pawnee Rock. The owner of the rock asked too much for it and five acres for a driveway to it, and the Daughters knew they did not have sufficient funds to buy it. The Committee almost despaired, though many plans were devised and discussed. Still came the cry, "Save the old Rock!" Under date of December 28th, 1905, Mrs. Shaw received the following letter from Dr. Edward K. Laurence, of Pawnee Rock : "Mrs. Shaw, Hiawatha, Kansas — Dear Madam: I received your letter of recent date, and assure you I was glad to hear from you. From the little I know of the Society you are representing, it is engaged in a laudable undertaking and should be encouraged in ev ery way. Now about Pawnee Rock : it is in the middle of a wheat-field, about one-fourth mile north of the THE SAVING OF OLD PAWNEE ROCK 149 town. From what I have heard, it has already been cut off from the top about forty feet. The stone is used for building material, though it is not of much good. It is now owned by Mr. Benjamin P. Unruh, and a man is at work nearly every day, breaking it up. The work of destruction has been going on for over twenty years, which leaves the rock now only about forty feet high on the highest face. Should the mem bers of your society desire to do anything to preserve it, I am sure they may depend on the hearty coopera tion of the Commercial Club of this place." (Signed) Edward K. Laurence, Pawnee Rock. Mrs. Shaw then tried to interest the club women in the Seventh District, where the rock is located, in the hope that they would in some way help purchase the Rock. In March, 1906, Mrs. T. A. Cordry, of Parsons, was appointed on the State Press Committee of the D. A. R., with the special work of creating a sentiment for Pawnee Rock. In Miss Meeker's letter telling her of her appointment, she gives a resume of the situation, part of which follows (the other has already been given) : "Mrs. Noble L. Prentis is a member of the Trail Committee from the State Historical Society, and has sent out inquiries as to the exact state of things in and around the Rock. Dr. E. K. Laurence, of Pawnee Rock, had written Mrs. Shaw that the Commercial Club of Pawnee Rock had tried to buy five acres, which would include the Rock and a driveway to it. They were prepared to pay $100 an acre, but Mrs. T. A. Cordry, State Historian. THE SAVING OF OLD PAWNEE ROCK 151 the owner, Mr. Unruh, refused this sum, and would not consider less than $3000 for the five acres. Dr. Laurence suggested that the only way to get hold of it, is for the State to condemn it, or get a cement plant to locate in Pawnee Rock, so there would be no demand for the stone. A letter from Miss Zu Adams, under date of February 21st, states that Prof. C. R. Aldrich, County Superintendent of Barton county, was in her office, and she told him of our ef forts to buy Pawnee Rock. He said, 'Why, that is only a hole in the ground.' He also said that the pro jection known as Pawnee Rock has been cut off thirty or forty feet, and a pit is where it used to be — that the bluff back of the Rock stands devoid of any but a fresh surface, — no names, a rock quarry of considerable value to its owner." Mrs. Cordry worked faithfully for the Rock, and wrote to many newspapers over the State to have the work noticed, hoping to induce some one to aid in purchasing the old landmark. Mrs. A. H. Horton, of Topeka, was another Daugh ter very much interested in the saving of old Pawnee Rock, and at the State Conference held in Parsons in November, 1906, asked the Conference if they were willing to undertake the purchasing and improving of the Rock. The Conference decided that as the Santa Fe Trail-marking was not completed, they could not undertake it. At the meeting of the Women's Kansas Day Club 152 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL in Topeka, in January, 1907, Mrs. Horton proposed the saving of old Pawnee Rock, and told what the D. A. R. of Kansas had already done, and how the Trail- marking was not near enough to completion to enable them to take any more heavy work at present. On motion of Mrs. Noble L. Prentis, the club then de cided to adopt this as their work, and began by appoint ing a committee to see what the expense would be, and also plan for the raising of the money. Mrs. H. O. Garvey, of Topeka, moved that other women's organi zations of the State be asked to help in the work. The motion carried, and the Women's Relief Corps, the Club women, and the W. C. T. U. were asked to help. They all responded nobly. The matter was taken out of the hands of the Daughters of the American Revo lution as far as management was concerned, but a com mittee was appointed in the State D. A. R. to coop erate with the leaders in the movement. Mrs. W. C. Smyser, of Sterling, was the chairman of that committee, and the other members were Miss Grace Meeker, of Ottawa, and Mrs. T. A. Cordry, of Parsons. The two committees and a committee from the town of Pawnee Rock comprised the Board of Management. Mrs. Smyser wrote to Miss Meeker, under date of May 25th, 1908, as follows : "This rock has been the dream of many years — to have it beautified and preserved as an old historic spot on the Santa F<§ Trail. The Board of Managers visited the Rock on the 28th of April. It is indeed a beautiful place, even as it now appears, just at the head of the THE SAVING OF OLD PAWNEE ROCK 153 main street of the town. We fully expected to com plete the arrangements at this time, but the owner had tacked on several items to the original contract, and we felt that we could not agree to them. We meet again after the return of Mrs. Simmons (Mrs. John Simmons, of Hutchinson, President of the Woman's Kansas Day Club) from the State Federation meeting ; so at this time there is nothing settled. I would be very glad to know how much the D. A. R. could raise or the amount each chapter ought to furnish for the Pawnee Rock fund. I took the picture of the bronze tablet with me to the meeting. Mrs. Morgan, our chairman, was much pleased with it, and thought it should be inserted in the Rock." A meeting of all the members of the committees at Kansas City, Kansas, was called in 1907, when the State Federation of Women's Clubs met there. Mrs. Cordry was the only member present, and went there with five dollars from her home chapter, Parsons, to give to the Pawnee Rock fund. This was the first cash donation to the fund for purchasing the old Rock. Mrs. Smyser sent circular letters to all of the chap ters (nine in number, then) in the fall of 1908, asking for help for the fund, to report before the State Con ference to be held in Independence. She wished that the D. A. R. should have a bronze tablet in the face of the Rock. As Mrs. Smyser was not present at the Conference, Mrs. C. W. Bitting, of Wichita, a vice- president of the W. K. D. C, gave a report of the work 154 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL and made an earnest plea for the Daughters to aid in this work. She also showed the booklet, "Echoes of Pawnee Rock," which had been compiled for the rais ing of funds. Mrs. A. H. Horton distributed a circu lar, telling of the work accomplished. Miss Meeker reported having written a sketch of the Trail-marking for the booklet. The book sold for fifty cents, and proved a valuable help in getting the money needed. The treasurer reported the first five dollars to the fund was given by Hannah Jameson Chapter D. A. R., of Parsons. Topeka had given $15, Ottawa $10, Wichita $25, and Sterling $10. Other sums were given later. By consent of the executive board and the different chapters, the balance left from the Trail-marking fund, $23.83, was given to the Pawnee Rock fund. At the suggestion of Mrs. Cordry, the W. K. D. C. had post card pictures of the Rock made, and these were sold to help the fund. The club women and D. A. R. all over the State sold post-cards, and so, of course, did the members of the W. K. D. C, whose dues also went for the fund. In 1908 the W. K. D. C. contracted with Benjamin P. Unruh, of Pawnee Rock, to raise $3000 to improve Pawnee Rock and Mr. Unruh was to deed about five acres to the State for a public park, to be open at all times. The monument which Mr. Unruh insisted should be placed on the Rock was to cost not less than $1,500. Mrs. Smyser wrote thus under date of De cember 21st, 1908: "I presume Mrs. Simmons told you all about our trip to Pawnee, and the securing of THE SAVING OF OLD PAWNEE ROCK 155 the deed and the five acres of land including the Rock, — and how happy we felt over the purchase. I have been clapping my hands with joy ever since the 20th of November — the day of the final settlement with Mr. Unruh, the owner of the Rock." Quite a number of Daughters were present at the meeting of the W. K. D. C. in Topeka, January 29th, 1909. Mrs. Smyser wrote at that time that the D. A. R. had more than enough to purchase a bronze tablet and have it set in the face of the Rock. She stated they had about $130 in all. Mr. Unruh's proposition to the W. K. D. C. was this : He would deed the five acres surrounding the Rock and including the Rock, to the State of Kansas as a gift, if the women of Kansas would place thereon improvements to the value of $3,000. These improve ments would include a monument, to cost not less than $1,500 ; an avenue 100 feet long, leading from the town of Pawnee Rock to the Rock ; a woven- wire fence fifty inches high surrounding the entire property ; a well, and a windmill. The avenue on either side and the park of four acres were to be set with shade trees and otherwise beautified, a four-foot cement walk must be laid, leading from the Rock to the town. The face of the Rock, which has been mutilated to some extent, must be restored in mason-work as nearly as possible. He also inserted the condition that the State spend at least one hundred dollars a year on its maintenance or the entire property would revert to him or his heirs. The citizens of Pawnee Rock added an extra $1,000 mm km Monument on Pawnee Rock. THE SAVING OF OLD PAWNEE ROCK 157 improvement. This would make the property when completed, worth about $7,200. The work was thoroughly organized, and in 1909 the donation was made to the State of Kansas by the women of Kansas and the Legislature accepted it, and, as a public park, will keep it in repair. The Legisla ture authorized the Governor to appoint a Board of Management to have charge of the improvements, and see that the monument was duly erected. Mrs. W. C. Smyser, of Sterling, represented the D. A. R. on that board, until the final completion and dedication of the park and monument released her. The entire expense was $4,700, and the citizens of Pawnee Rock raised $1,500 of this amount. This was all paid by May 24, 1912, and the dedication was one never to be forgotten. The Daughters' bronze tablet, like all of the special markers, was placed on the face of the Rock. The monument, of Barre granite, stands about thirty feet high, and is placed on the top of the Rock. The modeling was done by the Italian sculptor, Silvestro Caro, in the employ of C. W. Guild, of Topeka. On a marble base which rests on a rock, is a smaller square which bears the inscriptions. On one side is the name of the former owner of the Rock, Benjamin P. Unruh. On the side facing the town is the dedication : "Pre sented to the State of Kansas by the Women's Kansas Day Club, the Daughters of the American Revolution, the Women's Relief Corps, and the Women's Chris tian Temperance Union." On this block is raised the shaft, and the genius of the Old World has expressed 158 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL in stone the Western ideals. The design is that of Mr. C. W. Guild, of Topeka. On one side of the shaft is carved the head of a mighty buffalo gazing out over the endless plains with melancholy eyes. The design is a medallion, carved in intaglio. On the other side of the shaft is carved a magnificent Indian head in pro file. No other emblems would have been appropriate for Old Pawnee Rock, the Guardian of the Trail. At the dedication ceremonies on May 24, 1912, the D. A. R. were represented by the State Secretary, Mrs. Milo McKee, of Newton. There was an immense crowd present. The State Federation of Women's clubs had been meeting in Larned, and adjourned to the dedication. Mrs. McKee's address was as follows : "I bring to you today the greetings of more than fifteen hundred Kansas Daughters of the American Revolution who have had their small share in bringing about this memorable occasion. We speak in praise of Massachusetts, who cherishes so tenderly Plymouth Rock, the Minute Men, and Bunker Hill ; of Virginia, who has marked so many of her historic spots : but to my mind the winners of the far West fought a more strenuous battle, and the Trail, where Kansas has set up her 'signs' at the cross-roads, with her chain of stones marking the way from border to border, becomes a real battle-field from one end to the other with its unnumbered dead telling the ghastly story. History does not record a battle-field where was shown greater courage, or one which has wrought greater historic THE SAVING OF OLD PAWNEE ROCK 159 changes to a nation, than this spot upon which we now stand ; and its memory should be preserved as one of our great landmarks, that future generations may know of the great struggle to advance our National boundary to the Pacific. 'Count not the cost of honors to the dead. These monuments to mankind, brave and high, Do more than forts or battle-ship To keep our dear-bought liberty.' "It is told of Henry James, that during one of his visits to England he was asked the question, by an English lady, a member of the nobility : 'Mr. James, if you were not an American, to what nationality would you wish to belong ? ' With true loyalty to his country and much to the lady's surprise, he replied, ' Madame, if I were not an American, I would wish to be one.' I would supplement that, somewhat, by saying 'If I were not a Kansan, I would wish to be one.' "To those particularly interested, the task of mark ing this spot has been a most inspiring one. This beautiful monument will excite an historical interest never before reached. It will promote the study of local history, as the marking of the Old Santa Fd Trail has done. " The best money a state or organization can expend is that given to the purpose of perpetuating heroic in cidents; inculcating patriotism, and local and state •pride, resulting in an interested and enthusiastic citi zenship : and I am proud to be one of this band of women who have helped in this noble work, trusting 160 MARKING THE SANTA FE TRAIL that in the years to come it may bring to mind, not only the early struggle of Kansas, but that body of men now passed beyond, to whose voices these plains reecho — " 'Lest we forget, lest we forget.' " And no more fitting close can the Historian give to the story of the marking of the Old Santa F£ Trail through Kansas, than to say, it is finished, " 'Lest we forget, lest we forget.' " ite° O L T I DENVER O 1 R ¦tColorado A Springs Hale In t(i«*fioc Hole in Praifrie D O ^ . IUIlta2brHtTTTWJ V*' POBTLE^«0«TH: ^.f River A. K A Dto«\ Biajh* LSM,„0// Pauinea Ro°K%^^ ife?«.^^5^mporia I Bort Larned ^V HutcMson*! ,„tM, y& N SANTA FE* [amy Raton % Fernando de Taos I "\78|' Canbn j.% " 8»«£L W ITHVlf / E *«id Cr. r {jprfoe •ffounrf Mound JlKiWie! TT;Hou> Bar; tapper Sprtnof i> °La Canada \ III rf^^>Point of Fort Unibnjfoi jBI ,,