iS'A:'^' One Shilling. PFiriees :„;!¦! '%f D^isboFOugh and round it. Illustrated. ^ ._e5l. Henry % Taunt, r.R,s.s, V ¦4Wi' Tt^c I^egatives o? L 1 »Y2aiLE«'¥]MH¥IEIESIlir¥- From the COLLECTION OF OXFORD BOOKS made by FALCONER MADAN Bodley's Librarian A^HKJ )li TvA Sunee\i ot Ik dolswoldls. ^ OXFORD, its University 2c the Country round. ^ovns, JlHansions, Churches, & Scenes o| Country £i|e, in the Counties of Oxon. Berks. Bucks. Wilts. Glo'ster. Worcester. Warwick. Leicester. Northampton. Surrey, Kent. Hants. Cornwall, &c. &c. Oxford; Henry W. Taunt 2c Co Princes Risborough Church and White Leaf Cross. R Pretty Corner o? llea?g Backs. finees MND ROWND IX. including Monks Risborough, White Leaf Cross, the Kimbles, Ellesborough, Hampden, Horsenden, Saunderton, Bledlow, Chinnor, Lacey Green, Culverton, Loosley Row, &c., &c. JIIustratGd. by Henry W. Taunt, f.r.g.s. "I Photographer to the Oxford Architectural and Historical Society,. and Author of the well-known Guides to the Thames, &c., &c. OXFORO. fienry W. Jaunt & C©- PRINCES RISBOROUGH, S. ADCOCK, STATIONER, MARKET PLACE, TAUNT & CO., ART PRINTERS, OXFORD, The Index will be found on pcuje 73. T935 2110 3> vo e>. The faest of thanks is rendered fay the Author to his many kind friends, livho fay their information and assistance, have materially contributed to the successful ccmpletion of this little work. ft is intended to extend the book again and include the district to Wendover, 'Wycombe, Aylesbury, and possibly Thame, with many other illustraticns,- and so render it a complete historical handbook to the whole ol this part of the County of Bucks, and the Oxfordshire border adjcining. This will be com.pleted in the spring of J9JJ. White Leaf Cross. Risborough. [\ pretty corner of L^afy ^^cks. Where liills, and dales, and gloriou.s vv'oods, Invite the weary, and the worn To rest, or roam, and gather u]) jS^ew health, and strength, and energj-. Thy story of the days of old, AVith details of its hoary past We'el tell, and thus to every guest, Add pleasure to their welcome. THE County of Buckinghamshire is sometimes thought to represent the bust of an old Lady, with nut-cracker nose and chin, in her neck being Princes Risborough, just beneath her collar of hills, which forms one of the great charms of the old Lady, It is one ol the south midland counties of England, having Oxfordshire to the west, Northamptonshire to the north, Bedfordshire and Hertfordshire and Middlesex to the east, while the bust stands on Berkshire to the south. The County is noted for its Beech woods, which grow upon the hills and in the valleys of the Chiltern range ; and these trees are utilized mostly for the manufacture of chairs, the centre of the trade being at High Wjrcombe, some eight miles south of Princes Risborough, and it is a question whether from these Beeches the derivation of the name of the County is taken. The scenery among these woods, both on the hills and in the valleys, is very charming in every way. The rides and walks along the tree shaded roads and pretty paths are interesting and pleasant, and to visitors fond of pure rural life, there are only a few counties in England that will compare with the beautiful part of Buckinghamshire in which Princes Risborough is situated. The place itself, is one of the charming little Buckingham shire towns which nestle in the shadow of the Chilterns, and it is the centre of the district which is noted as much for its salu- britv, or health giving qualities of its air, as it is for the interest ing and charming countrv around it. The Chilterns Hills present from the valley, the appearance of a high rampart running for many miles along the horizon, here green with downy turf, there clothed with their lovely beechwoods, which late in autumn are rich In the extreme witli the gorgeous colours of the changing foliage. The hills are often broken into deep recesses, some of which (as at Velvet Lawn) are very beautifully edged with hanging \voods, in which the Beech and Ash are prominent beside the more lowly Juniper and Bo-x. The hills often attain a height of 800 feet or more above the sea, and present all the appearance of water - worn masses of chalk, of which they are really composed. The neighbourhood of Princes Risborough Is especially rich In historical jjjterest, which dates back to early British times, when perched upon the hills were the camps and strong-holds and villages of the tribes, posted above and dominating the old tracks or roads, known as the upper and lower Icknield way. The former running along the heights, has been In the course of centuries lost in places, yet here in passing Risborough a little to the South the grass covered way is easily recognised, and forms a place for a delightful ramble ; the latter skirting the foot of the hills still runs from Norfolk the old Iceni kingdom, through Cambridgeshire across Bedfordshire and Buckinghamshire, and is utilized in places as a main road which passes Risborough to the north. This road then crosses Oxfordshire to the Thames, which it fords near Streatley, and still continues under the Berk shire hills, until it reaches the -w^est country and Cornwall, forming one of the longest British tracks still existing in England. Ainong the camps in the neighbourhood is Cymbeline's mount, said to be the castle of the British King Cunobellne, from ^vhom the villages of Kimble derive their name, nearer still is the camp on Pulpit Hill, and further west, another on Bledlow Down. But even before these objects of interests the great cross at White Leaf hill, and the smaller one at Bledlow Princes Risborough, White Leaf Cross from the Icknield way. claim precedence, the gigantic proportions of the former make it a striking object, even to the most casual observer. It is splendidly visible from the railway for several miles, and no one can fail to be interested in its grand appearance, while the smaller Bledlow one, overgrown and hall hidden in the turf of the hill to the west, may be even the older of the two. They are both supposed to commemorate battles In Sa.xon times, or perhaps the same battle, but history is entirely silent respecting them, and tradition is the only guide, no record being known of their origin. White Leaf is said to be derived from Wigllf, the grandson of Woden, and father of Henglst and Horsa, or from a King of Mercia of that name, while Bledelawe Is Saxon for Bloody Hill. Before the Roman Invasion of Britain, this part of the country is believed to have been inhabited by a tribe or people called CatyeuchlanI, whom Campden Identified as the CassII, the subjects of Cassivelaunus. They were a powerful tribe and combined with the Trinobantes actually checked the progress of Julius Csesar on his first Invasion of Britain. These Britons led a wild and roaming life amidst their hills and forests, depending chiefly on hunting and fishing as a means of subsistence ; they banded together in tribes and attached them selves to their own chieftain. They were tall men, and their cloth ing in times ol peace, was usually untanned skins ol wild beasts slain in the chase, but in time of war they stained the naked parts ol their bodies, ( arms, legs and thighs ) ^vIth a dark blue dye from -woad, which gave them a ferocious appearance. They shaved their beard except on the upper lip, which they allowed to gro\v to some length, and their hair flowed down upon then- backs and shoulders. They were distinguished for their good natural capacity, their valour, and their pledged fidelity to aid each other. In all cases of attack from without. Their to'wns were an p,ssemblage of huts, sometimes partly sunk into the ground, covered with turf or skins, and for the sake of security, often hidden in the midst of woods, or occupying the summit of the hills, and surrounded with palisades, or trees piled upon each other, or by earthen ramparts and ditches. They seem to have been able to fabricate warlike weapons from inetals. Their arms were small targets with swords and spears, and in battle they used a chariot -with short scythes of iron projecting from the axles, which Inflicted terrible wounds and spread terror where- ever they fiercely drove. The great mass of the people -were practically serfs or slaves belonging to their chiefs. In later times they were considerably under the control of the Druids, who had gradually attained supreme control, and in their religion, the worship of the sun and a number of deities held the chief place. The Druids inflamed the people, and did their best to oppose the Roman invaders, who at length were determined to destroy them, and under Suetonius Paulinus a later Roman General, an expedition was made against them, when many of their Priests perished in the Isle of Anglesey ; subsequently great numbers were massacred in the unsuccessful efforts of the Britons under Oueen Boadicea ; after which their power and splendour declined. A full account of the Druids will be found in " Rollright Stones, the Stonehenge of Oxfordshire" by H. W. Taunt. It was customary among the Britons to mark the last resting place of the dead, by erecting mounds more or less elevated according to the power or influence of the deceased. These British barrows generally cover a rude chamber of rough stones often of colossal dimensions, and manj' groups of stones have been found scattered over various parts of our island, as well as other countries. In these barrows the body Is sometimes found to have been buried •entire, but in many cases it had been burnt, and the ashes de posited in rude urns, often not baked but merely dri.ed in the sun. After the Romans came and conquered England, this part of Britain \vas included in the district called Flavia Cjesariensls ; after the establishment of the Saxon heptarchy It became part of the kingdom of Mercia, and In later times Avas Included in the district called Dene Lege. Relics of Roman occupation have been found at Princes Risborough, Kimble and Ellesborough, near the latter are some strong earth works on the north side of the Chilterns, and the foundations of a Roman Villa were discovered at Terrick in that parish. From Bradenham to Lacy Green are the remains of Grimsdyke, which here forms the boundary of Princes Risborough parish. It maintains its course by Redlands End through Hampden Park, and is met with In places across the country to near Berkhamstead. Conjecture is entirely at fault, in respect to the object which the ancient Britons had in view, when they raised this immense line of embankments. Whether for military purpose ; or as a Territorial line, or as the boundary of tribes It still remains a mystery, nor have we many records here of Saxon times, although some of the names are evidently taken from Saxon holders of the land. The Chilterns are said to derive their name from the Saxon word Cylt or Chilt, meaning chalk, and were once so covered with Beech woods as to be impassable, until Leofstan, Abbot of St. Albans, cut them down because of the refuge they afforded to thieves, and the stewardship of the Chiltern hundreds was ¦created to put down both the human and the animal wolves, w^hich infested these forests. To these Hills and the remains of the Forest which once entirely enshrouded them, the charm of this district is due, and yet not to these alone, the visitor will find among the people who inhabit it, quiet courtesy and much good humour, with an underlying sterling honesty and industry, which with the splendid salubrity of the air makes a visit here an enjoyable time, to be remembered and repeated at the earliest opportunity. J5 ¦M 3 pO X! in s CL, XT Princes Risborough in I8S8, frinces ^istiorougli, Westling in the vale it stands Beneath the hills. Whereon the cross uplifted high Looks down. fRINCES Risborough is a quiet, clean little town, on the road from Wycombe to Aylesbury, 8 miles south of Aylesbury, 7 miles from Great Missenden, and 38 miles from London.. It stands in the valley near the foot of the Chiltern Hills and White Leaf Cross, and consists mainly of one principal street and market place, with several other smaller streets diverging. In the High street, the leading thoroughfare, are several private houses and some good shops ; with more than one comfortable Inn. This- street is broad, with raised pathways on either side, and at its lower end is a quaint little brick market house with verandah round it and clock cupola on the roof, built in 1824 by the Grubb family, then owners of the Manor and Horsenden,. while the lower story which Is open, was Intended to be used as a corn market. There Is an Institute with Library on the left hand side of the street. At the top of the High Street is a cross road ; the turn to the east leads to the Backs and the New road, which rises the hill and crosses the upper Icknield way, running on to Green Hailey and beyond to Redlands End and Hampden: that to the west is Bell Street, leading to the Railway Station and Saunderton, as well as Parkfield and the Wycombe road. Here standing back from the street In its own quiet burial ground below the Icknield Way is the Baptist Chapel, a square built building without any pretensions to architecture, with a number of tombs around it. The Baptists number among their members many of the chief residents of the place. The community has been In existence a number of years, the first gilt to them being when this property was made over to Trustees in 1707 by Jane and \\'illiam Cock, to which the addition of a house, garden and orchard, were made by Thomas Cartwright in 1745, for the use of the Pastor. The Chapel was rebuilt in 1804, and enlarged in 1817. It has seating accomodation for about 400, and at one time had several village stations connected with it. The Baptists here were chiefly instrumental in starting one of the earliest elementary schools in 1839, under the British and Foreign schools society ; furnishing an undenominational education to scholars not only of Risborough, but a number of villages round. It was first held in the upper room ol a house, but a new school was built in 1847 ''¦' *''^ corner ol Parkfield, which still continues its useful work of training the young. Further down Bell Street is the Wesleyan Chapel, built about 1870 and included in the Aylesbury Circuit, the foundation being about 1834 ; beyond It Is a number of new houses, with others still building, forming with those lying along the side of the Wycombe road the pleasant suburb of Parkfield, the latest addition to Risborough and reaching half way to Culverton. The oldest part of Risborough is from the Market House to the Church. In this Church Street are some veritable remains of old Risborough, a few picturesque half-timbered houses and cottages with overhanging upper stories, but a number of old cottages near the Manor were pulled down to make -way for the great malt house belonging to the brewery, which occupies their site. Near the Church are the Schools, and from here by the old Mount House Is a pleasant path across the fields to the station road, the nearest way for foot traffic from this end. The Town is well served by two main railways and several side branches, the station lying west of the town and Parkfield. The station and lines have lately been rebuilt and extended, and now forms the Important junction ol the new combined Great High Street, Princes Risborough. Bell Street, Princes Risborough. "Central Line, with the new express route of the Great Western from London to Birmingham and the north. Besides these main lines there are branches to Oxford via Thame, to Watlington, and also to Aylesbury, the latter joining the Metropolitan Railway there. These additions have so entirely altered the Railway here, that the once little station has grown to be a bustling junction ; which in all probability will, at no far distant date, lead to a considerable increase In the size of the town. There are numerous trains to and from London, both to Marylebone and Paddington stations, and the lares are very moderate. The Post Office is in High Street, and has arrangements for Telegraph, Telephone and E.xpress deliveries, beside the usual business ; it is open from 8 a.m. till 8 p.m. weekdays, and on Sundays from 8.30. to 10 a.m. only. There are three deliveries of letters and five despatches of mails. Risborough, anciently called Risberge or Ryshberg, is one of the three Hundreds of Aylesbury, which were Elesberie, Risberge and Stane ( now Stone ). Risberge Hundred Included Princes and Monks Risborough with Sudcote, Bledelei, Horsedune, Wendoure, Weston-Turvllle and Begrave, ( Bedgrove ). Princes Risborough at the time of the Norman Survey, was one of the crown Manors, and in later times it is said to have been the residence ol Edward the Black Prince, who held the Palace. At the west end of the Church-yard, at a place called the Mount, which was anciently enclosed with a moat, are a number of banks and trenches, and this is the supposed site of the Palace or Castle. The site and lands having been granted to the Hampdens in the reign of Elizabeth, descended with the rest of the estates to the Earl of Buckinghamshire, the decayed mansion, writes LIpscombe, which had long been in a neglected condition -was taken down In 1824 ; no vestige now remains of the Palace of the Black Prince, and only one small cottage of the habitation belonging to the Canons of Notley Abbey, who held the Rectory and Church. Mr. Wise, calls the supposed site of Prince Edward's Palace, a Saxon Camp ; but this is evidently a mistake. Domesday tells us : - Riseberge was Earl Harold's vlll. It is and was assessed in the time ol King Edward and after, at 30 hides. There is land for 34 plows. In the demesne are 20 hides and there are 4 ploughs on it. There 30 villeins with 12 bordars "have 20 plows. There are 3 serfs and 2 mills worth 14s 8d. Meadow is there for 7 plows, woodland for 1000 swine. In all it pays yearly 47 lbs of bland silver about 16 pence. It used to pay 10 lbs by tale. To this Manor belongs and belonged a certain burgess of Oxeneford paying 2s. There is besides a salt worker of Wieg ( ? Droltwitch ) who rendered ( ? ) loads of sa.lt. And In the same Manor was and is a certain sokeman ^3 holding ¦ 3 virgates. He could indeed sell ( his land ) but yet he has done service to the sheriff. In the i2th. century the family of De Riseberge, had taken their name from this Manor, but this is all their records. Henry III. gave the Lordship to his brother Richard, King of the Romans, but at the death of Edmund, Earl of Cornwall in 1300, it reverted to the Crown, and was settled in dower on Queen Margaret. In 1330, John of Elthan, Earl of Cornwall, had a grant of the Manor. In 1532, Henry VIII. on the dissolution of Notely Abbey, granted this Manor then called the Abbots hold, and also the Rectory and Church to the Dean and Canons of Christ Church, Oxford, but it was afterwards surrendered to the Crown and regranted by Edward VI. to Robert King, Bishop of O-xford. In 1550 the Manor was settled on the Princess Elizabeth, and In 1581 she as Oueen, granted hoth the Manor and Lordship with the Rectory and Church to Robert Wake,, of London. The Manor formed part of the dower of Queen Anne, Queen of James I. and after her death, reverted to Charles Prince of Wales, and to his heirs the Kings ol England for ever, but has since been sold by the crown and has passed through various hands until at the present time it is uncertain who is the rightful Lord of the Manor. The property of the manor Avas sold about 50 years ago, with the exception of the Market House which was claimed by the late Mr. Humphrey Bull of Aston Clinton, -^vho claimed to be Lord of the Manor ; .but this has now been taken possession by the Parish Council. Henry VIII, granted a market on Wednesdays (which has been altered to Saturday and now Is Thursday,) and fairs 3 days at the feast of the Nativity and on St, Geoige's day. There is also in the Rectory, the remains of a charter granted by Elizabeth in 1597 in confirmation of an earlier one by Henry III. which ex empted the inhabitants from serving on juries, and gave them free toll to other markets, but these privileges were abolished .some years ago. The fairs now are May 6. and October 21. Princes Risborough parish is 8j miles in length. In 1820, 2,900 acres of common land was enclosed, the poor being given a certain portion in lieu of their ancient rights, the income from which Is now distributed annually in gifts of Coal. Brook House now called the Manor, was the property of Mr. Penton, who was visited by Queen Elizabeth when at Hampden, The old house was distinguished by rude caryatides, which supported its projecting windows, and there -was a curious niche within called Queen Elizabeth's oven. The present Manor, a farm standing to the east of the Church, is a fine 17th. century house, with old fashioned brick walls and entrance and a good fireplace in one room. Still further on down the lane beyond the Church and Manor is the ' Old Vicarage ' probably the last remains of the Monk's 14 buildings, a picturesque cottage, still retaining its old outside built chimney, the top part of which is octagonal stone work, and a tall old Yew . r- stands in the gar- " '¦'*^^^ den which though - ¦ bright and green, is from age hollow within. The Monks ofNotlev near Crendon, held this Manor ; In one or two deeds Abbot's Risborough Is men- tioned, which appears to have been the property held by this mon- The Old vicarage. Risborough. astery, who sup plied service to the Court or Mount as it Is now called, as well as holding the Rectory of the Church, and the ' Farma Notley' was founded in 1 162 by Walter GIflard, Earl of Buckingham and Emengard his wife. The first charter was given by Henry II. and confirmed by John. At Risborough at the dissolution they held ' Flrma maner et Rector ' and this was valued at £ 40 per annum. It was the richest of all their possessions except Crendon which was worth £8. 4. 4. per annum more. The ruined Abbey of Notley is now a farm in a charming situation on the banks of the River Thame, between Crendon and Haddenham. By the bequest of some former possessor of the Manor there was provided annually a fat bull to be killed, and a boar to be made Into brawn, four bushels of wheat and four bushels of malt to be made into bread and beer ; the whole to be distributed to the parishioners, " in large pieces, smoking hot from the copper, at five o'clock in the morning, for breakfast on Christmas Day." This custom having become an intolerable nuisance, the Lord of the Manor took Counsels opinion, which stated that " he was not bound by the custom, there being no tie on the estate to cover the expense," While this practice lasted it was productive of much Intoxication and riot. " The poor paraded the town during the whole night preceding the distribution, with an incessant clamour. On the Christmas morning they marched in crowds to the iManor, and on the doors being opened, they rushed to the feast prepared for them with so little decorum and for bearance, that often, they inflicted wounds on one another with their knives. The whole of the remaining portion of Christmas Day is also stated to have been spent by many of them in public- houses. These assemblies often comprised many strangers from a distance, as well as parishioners." Princes Risborough, Site of Palace and St. Mary's Church. i6 The street leading northward from the Market House, really a continuation of the High Street is called Duke Street, it con tains some good shops and is one of the principal thoroughfares. Through it lies the way to the roads running to Ajdesbury, Thame, and Wendover ^vith the villages between. The road bifurcates at the end of the town, that to the right leading to Monks Risborough and the north and east, while the road to the left leads to Long Wick, Thame and Oxford. St. Mary's Church, the ' Church of Our Lady, Risborough,' has Nave and Chancel, north and south Aisles, and -^vestern Tower and Spire. It has been nearly all modernised at various times, except part of the arcading of the Nave, the columns of w^hich are composed of chalk. The Church now presents the appearance of an Early Decorated Church, but there are a few remains of earlier work, mostly in the south Aisle. The Chancel is spacious with a lofty but plain arch opening to the Nave, and small side shafts only. The East window has three lights, -with geometrical tracery in its head, and has lately been filled ¦with stained glass to the memory of the late Rector. A Piscina with double bason and credence table, Is in the S. wall, and a window is utilized as a Sedile : the Chancel roof is open, re placed when the Chancel was restored about i860. The Chancel has two windows on the south side and one on the north, of Dec. work, but all have different mouldings, and there Is a large organ chamber with organ. Outside in the south -wall. Is a small square headed low-side window, blocked. The arcade of the Nave has seven arches on each side, the two to the east being smaller than the rest, these are carried on a round rebuilt column : the next four on both sides are octagonal with very poor mouldings, and the last pair are quatrefoil, all the arches being pointed. This arcade and the south Aisle seem to be all that Is now left which belonged to the earlier Church before restoration. In the clere story there are five circular lights on each side, but old pictures ol the Church, show them to have been square in daj's gone by, and there are no traces now of the rood loft which then existed. The Aisles were built about 1220. Tlie north Aisle has four windows and appears to be later in date, probably owing to the restoration. The south Aisle is older and has several features worth notice. The east window of the south Aisle has two lights with engaged circular columns on each side, close by it Is a piscina, and by its side a stall, both under rich cinquefolled canopies, supported by shafts, while low down along the wall are four Decorated recesses with trefoil headings and side shafts. The first window In this Aisle Is a lancet with three lights deeply re cessed and a double row of slender shafts of Purbeck marble, sup porting pointed arches with plain mouldings. The pulpit Is of carved Oak on a modern stone base. The western arch Is grace- ful and loftjf, opening into the new tower, and separated by an Oak Screen from the Nave. The south door of the Nave is early Dec. with engaged shafts on each side, the hood mould having groups of leaves as finials ; while over the porch is a Vesica with the Lamb and Flag. The exterior ol the Church is Flint with stone dressings, it has high pitched tiled roofs, and plain parapets to the Aisles. The old Spire fell down in 1803 and considerably damaged the Church, besides destroying the peal of bells, it was replaced for many years by an iron-clad Spire about a hundred feet high ¦with a ball and vane, this and the Tower ^vere taken down and rebuilt in 1909. The present Tower is of Flint with stone dress ings, having four square headed windows of three lights with bold but elegant tracery, the parapet is of chequered flint and stone, and surmounted at each corner with a figure ; from this a graceful Spire rises, but the eight lights around it seem too many, and make it heavier in appearance than it would otherwise be ; the Architect was J. O. Scott. An epitaph to an old Clerk who is burled in the Church is quoted : - Under this seat there is a Clark, Who is enclosed in tbe dark ; Who often times did sing God's praise. And now at last did end his days. Culverton. Culverton, on the RIsboro' and Wycombe road is a farm and two or three cottages down In the valley. It Is first men tioned In 1247, when Stephen sone of Hugh of Calverton held one hide of Philip sone of Oliver. He had formerly paid one mark per year, but this was then varied to a clove gilly-flower. John de Toxle afterwards held it of the King in chief, in the 14th. century. While Leaf Cross from Risborough. The Last Load. White Leaf Cross. Iceaf Cross. THE first and most prominent of all the sights of Risborough whatever may be its date or symbol, is White Leaf Cross. It is in sight nearly everywhere, as it is engraven on the ever lasting Chiltern Hills, and overlooks the \vhole of the great \'ale of Aylesbury lying at its foot. Its gigantic proportions tower up from the Valley nearly to the summit of the hill on which it Is cut, and the sacred symbol of its shape, its bold outline, with the glowing whiteness of the material In which It is formed, all help to make It so conspicuous that it is the first thing which is noticed by every visitor, and even those who pass along by rail. It can be seen from so great a distance and from so many places that it is quite a familiar object to all the country round ; this gigantic " Sign of the Son of Man," yet it is at once one of the most remarkable of the many monuments of antiquity. Indeed we may even go so far as to claim for it, that there exists no more remarkable memorial In the land ; and even the White Horses of the west and south are dwarfed in com parison with this gigantic Cross. Pilgrims for ages have looked upon it with reverence, as they passed along the ancient Icknield way at its feet, on their way to the Holy Rood at Wendover or the Shrine of St. Osyth, or some other of the noted spots to which Pilgrims resorted ; and it has been kept in its pristine beauty for mrnv a century. 19 The Cross, as will be seen from our illustrations, is of a Latin form with a pyramidical base ; it is cut in the chalk hill locally called White Leaf, in the parish of Monks Risborough, and belongs to the Hampden estate. Its height Is a little over 230 feet from the base, which again is 340 feet long, the length of its arms being 100 feet and their width a full 20 feet. The size of the pyramid or triangle seems to have been enlarged within the present century, as the dimensions recorded in early times were smaller than at present given. It can be reached on foot from Risborough by the first turning out of the New Road across the fields, or along the upper Icknield way which runs near the foot of the Cross ; but if driving or motoring, the best road to it is by the main road to Monks Risborough, and then taking the turn to the right which crosses the Icknield way, leading to Green Hailey and Redlands End, and so on to Hampden. It is a climb to the top of the hill; although younger members of the district, often make light of the descent and slide down the steep chalk pitch in as many seconds as it takes minutes for us to sur mount it, but when once the top is reached, one of the most glorious panoramas anywhere is spread out before the climber. Behind is a noble stretch of breezy down, covered as all these Chilterns are with a close springy turf, amid which many a wild flower peeps up on its short stem, and turns its bright eye up to the sky. The pure invigorating breeze sweeping up the vale from the western sea, is most refreshing after the heat of the climb this summer day ; and the glorious prospect which unfolds itself, makes ample payment for the toil of climbing. Both to north-east and south-west the long line of hills stretch away until they are lost in the distance, while the Vale lies spread out at our feet like a carpet in all Its rich beauty. The hills ol Brill and Wittenham stand out against the sky ; here and there a white Church or tower, peeps from among the trees in the valley. The town of Aylesbury with its Church crowns a rising ground to the northward, far away beyond is a blue line of hills nearly lost at times in the shimmering haze ; while nearer. Beacon Hill, and the camp of the old British King Cunobellne stand out with the monument to our South African soldiers on Coombe Hill behind, .\t our feet lies Monks Risborough with its beautiful old Church ; further west is the town of Princes Risborough, with its new Spire In the centre of some trees, and the steam of a train rushing along the great bank behind ; while to the south is Bledlow hill, with the Icknield way winding along below it, and beyond all, the Vale of White Horse as far as the eye can reach across Oxfordshire and Berkshire, and on again. The fields are spread out like a plan, their size, and shape, and crops, are all revealed ; here and there is a rick standing on one side by the hedge, a remnant of the last year's harvest ; while from cottages the smoke curls up, to add life to the charming landscape. It Is all so homelike, so thoroughly English in Its character, that one wonders why so many endure the discomforts of modern travel abroad, when they have such lovely scenes and localities as this at home. And then just below us Is the great White Cross, -whose dimensions are scarcely realizable unless one essays the track a-down it ; but this once accomplished, the wonder that the Cross can be seen as far as Oxford, and Brill, and the hills beyond, is entirely removed. We have already touched upon its history, -vvhile authorities differ as to its origin ; some making it the record of a battle, and dragging in Danes and Saxons, Henglst and Horsa, Cunobellne and the Britons, and other heroes of those ancient days ; but we prefer to look upon it as a perfectly peaceful memorial the -wayside Cross of the Monks ol Canterbury on -whose property It was situated, and we read ' In 829 Wylaf King of the Mercians gave Brokewell to the Church of Canterbury.' Thus it may be the -work of Algar Stalre, or his predecessors who held it for the Monks ; it was In his possession after the Conquest. Before the enclosure, the cross -was scoured by public contributions, and never -without a merry making ; but in the enclosure act of 1829 the rents ol two fields were set apart to keep it in repair, and this has been done by the Earls of Buckinghamshire, the owners of the manor. Thus preserved It Is a monument for all time, and although its origin may be lost it is without question the grandest memorial of its class throughout the land. Black says :- " Through these beech -woods, strewn ^vith dead leaves and matted with briar and bracken, I joyously Avent until I issued upon the summit of the hill ; upon the steep side of ^vhIch Is cut the great White Cross that can be seen all the way from Oxford. The old grand picture of that Intervening plain was once more before me ; Princes Risborough, with its red tiled houses and its Church, lying down there under the faint blue smoke of the village ; the long white road leading on to Bledlo\v, the comfortable farmsteads smothered among orchards, then the great patchwork of fields with their various colours, the red and brown fallow, the dark green of the young clover, the fine tint of the ^vheat, here and there already yellowed with charlock ; the sharp black lines of the hedges gradually getting closer and fainter as the eye rose to the horizon, and there be coming a confused mass of misty streaks. On the right, the remote uplands with their larch plantations, and here and there a white house shining in the sun. Down on the left the continuing lines of the chalk hills, rounded and smooth where they become visible from the dusky stretches of the beech woods, and far off in front, hall lost in the shimmer of light along the edge of the sky, the blue plain of Oxfordshire, undeterminate and vague." Princes Risboroughand the Yalley, from White Leaf Hill. ^Soldiers ivlounc. t