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WANDERINGS

GREECE.

GEORGE COCHRANE, ESQ.,
LATE OF QUEEN'S COLLEGE, CAMBRIDGE j
KNIGHT OF THE ROYAL GREEK MILITARY ORDER OF THE SAVIOUR;
ETC. ETC.

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. II.

LONDON:
HENRY COLBURN, PUBLISHER,
13, GREAT MARLBOKOUGH STREET.
18:37.

T. U. --AV1M,, I'RINTEIl, ST. MARTIN'S I.ANK, CH A rt I NU CRI'SS.

CONTENTS OF VOL. II.

CHAPTER I.
A Greek Gossip — The Trumpeter — A Band of Robbers on the Frontier
— Means to suppress them — Unfortunate Catastrophe — Official Re
missness, and Royal Gratitude — A Greek Hero — A Greek Christening
— Departure for the Frontiers — Payment of the Troops — Visit to
Mount Pentelicus — Ancient Chisel Marks and Wheel Tracks — Return
— Richness of the Plain for Settlers — Government Road to the Quar
ries — Greek War-Songs, by a Frank  p. 1 — 19
CHAPTER II.
Conversation with Doctor Clathos and Mr. Black, relative to a new
Gazette — The Doctor's method of Curing a Lunatic — The manner in
which the Mainotes take the Law— Pic-nic to Mount Pentelicus, with
Mr. and Mrs. Finlay — Greek Scenery — The two Kings — Insurrection
— King's Proclamation — Visit to Mr. Conduriotti, and to Madame
Catachasi's — Greek Barristers and Judges — Visit to the Courts of
Law — The Law of Greece — Dr. Maniachis  p. 20 — 34

CHAPTER III.
The King of Bavaria's intended Departure — Ball given by the Chancellor's
Lady — The King of Bavaria's Amiability at it — Colocotroni offered

iv CONTENTS.
to make the Author his Adopted Son— Coursing Excursion— General
Church and the Chieftains— Author's Political Discussion with some
Greek Chiefs— Russian Intrigue in the Morea— The Russian Power
compared to that of the States its Neighbours  p. 35— 58

CHAPTER IV.
Good Friday — Easter— The King goes to the Cathedral — Description of
the Ceremony — Historical Sketch of the Greek Church — Difference
between the Greek and Roman Churches — Separation of the two —
Biographical Sketch of Mr. Tricoupi  p. 59—88

CHAPTER V.
Easter Sunday — Visit to Lady Church — Sir P. Malcolm's House — Pass
of Daphne — Plain of Athens — Salamine — General Gordon — Embassy
— Vocal Performers — Easter Tuesday— Amusements at the Temple of
Theseus — Rebels defeated — Theatre — African Pigeons — A new Re
venue for Greece — Ball at the Countess of Armansperg's — Madame
Lagrenee— Madame Bedouri — Miss Karaiskaki — Greek Amusements
— Mr. King — Society of the Green Bough — Greeks and Turks —
Greek Wines — Turkish ill-will to the Greeks  p. 89—115

CHAPTER VI.
General Church and the Troubles on the Frontier — Lady Church —
Mount Anchesmos — Greece and Egypt — Blasts of the Rock — .The
Academy — Visit to Mr. Bell — Description of his Estate and Garden 
Greek Walls — Visit to the Botanical Garden — Greek Constitution 
Monks at Mount Athos — Visit to a Greek Peasant, near the Acropolis
— Visit to the Stadium — Athenian Pciela Chaise  p. 116 — 133

CONTENTS. V
CHAPTER VII.
Historical Sketch of Greece  p. 134  151
CHAPTER VIII.
St.. George's Day — Answer to my Petition — Observations thereon  The
Order of the Saviour — Steam Vessels — Works at the Piraeus — Change
of Habitation — The Feast of the Pentecost — Convent of Kaissariani —
Greek Women sketched — Their Dances and Amusements... p. 152 — 171
CHAPTER IX.
Cricketing at Port Munychia — Schoolmaster and his Boys — The Palace
— The Military Hospital — The Theatre — Anniversary of the King's
Coronation — Medical Institution — Fete Day of Constantine and
Ellen — Visit to the Country — Greek Phalanx — High rate of
Money  p. 172—196
CHAPTER X.
Rev. Mr. Hill's School — Public Schools in Greece — Piraeus — Probability
of its becoming a great Port — Custom House — Temple of Venus — The
Orator at the Pnyx — Matrimonial Design on the Author. ..p. 197 — 221
CHAPTER XI.
Narrative of a Journey of Five Days in;Greece — A Pic-Nic Accompani
ment — The Plain of Marathon — The Tumulus — The Monks' Hos
pitality — Sheep's Milk and Butter better than Cow's — The Merits of
an Umbrella— The Origin of Tobacco  p. 222—242

VI CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XII.
Kalybia— A Stratagem — The English in Greece — Braona — Port Raphti —
Colossal Statue — Kerratia — Laurentium — Cape Sunium — Sea Nymphs
— Olympia — Village Greeting — Return to Athens  p. 243 — 259
CHAPTER XIIL
Greek Landowners — Their Titles — Register of Estates — Turkish Gal
lantry — Greek Husbandry — Curious Modes of threshing Corn — A
Turkish Bath— Coals and Coal Mines in Greece  p. 260—269
CHAPTER XIV.
A Visitor — Voyage among the Islands — Hydra — Silk Manufactory —
Sugar — Cour d' Assises — Offences — Syra — Its Social Advantages —
Myconi — Paros — Naxos — Egina — Important Mineral Spring — The
Museum — Obligations of civilized Europe to Greece — How to repay
them — Antiquities  p. 270 — 290
CHAPTER XV.
Medal of Merit — Preparations for Departure — Leave-taking — Dine at
Countess Armansperg's — Departure — Regrets and Civilities of the
Neighbours — Embark from the Piraaus — Voyage to Epidaurus — From
Epidaurus to Napoli — Old Acquaintance — Improvement of the Town
— An English Greek Attorney- General — A Dinner in Napoli — Greek
Servants  p. 291 — 303
CHAPTER XVI.
Madame Turette— Society in Napoli — Constitution of the Greek Army
— Cotton and Tobacco — Inns in Greece — Arrival at Corinth 
Vostizza — Patras — The " Inglesi "—Law of Dotation— Dr. Mani-
achis  p. 304—322

CONTENTS. Vll
CHAPTER XVII.
On the Colonization of Greece  p. 3*23 — 353
APPENDIX I.
Sketch of the Greek Revolution  p. 355 — 380
APPENDIX II.
French Steam Packets  p. 381—382

LIST OF PLATES &c. IN VOL. II.
Portrait of the Queen of Greece  To face title-page
Mount Anchesmos  ... p. 118
Fete of the Pentecost  107
The Acropolis of Athens, with the Parthenon, &c. ... ... 290
Plan of the New Town of Athens  At the end of vol.

ERRATA.
Page 121, line 8, for "the west" read " the east."
 251, — 22, for " two miles" read " two hours.'
— 347, for 1,000,0007. read 1,200,000/.

WANDERINGS IN GREECE.

CHAPTER I.
A Greek Gossip — The Trumpeter — A Band of Robbers on
the Frontier — Means to suppress them — Unfortunate
Catastrophe — Official Remissness, and Royal Gratitude —
A Greek Hero — A Greek Christening — Departure for
the Frontiers — Payment of the Troops — Visit to Mount
Pentelicus — Ancient Chisel Marks and Wheel Tracks —
Return — Richness of the Plain for Settlers — Government
Road to the Quarries — Greek War-Songs, by a Frank.
On returning home from the scene described at
the close of the last chapter, I was encountered
by a certain Anastatius (not Mr. Hope's!) who was
famous as an amusing retailer of the gossip of
Athens, — so much so, that he went by the name
of the Trumpeter. He is a good-natured fellow,
and I was always glad to meet with him, as I
now and then contrived to extract from him
VOL. II. B

GREEK BANDITTI.

some information useful to my purposes. And
on the present occasion this was the case. The
government, it appeared from his report, had
just been made acquainted with the movements
of a band of robbers on the frontiers, which were
of so extensive and disciplined a nature as to re
semble those of a corps d'armee. They burned
the villages, killed the inhabitants, moved about
in regular bodies, and the whole country on the
frontier, it appeared, was in a state of consterna
tion • and the government were decided upon
sending a large body of troops, in addition to
the royal troops that were already there, to assist
in at" once putting down this daring band. Anas
tatius told me, also, that Dutch money was found
upon those who were taken, and that the rebels
appeared to have it in abundance.
The truth is, that this movement (as I have
hinted before) was caused by the enemies of the
proposed Bank,— the establishment of which was
then in agitation. At a future period I shall
speak of this insurrection more fully.
My informant added that he had more news to
tell me, and of an equally calamitous nature. I
then learned from him (to my great regret) that
Lazare Tzamados had just destroyed himself, — it

ROYAL GRATITUDE. 3
was alleged, through want. This unfortunate
person had formerly belonged to an honourable
family of Hydra, and was a son of Demetrius
Tzamados, one of those who had most distin
guished themselves by bravery and patriotism,
and had, during the war, sacrificed his fortune
to his country, to the amount of one hundred
thousand dollars. Lazare, his son, knowing that
such had been the case, and feeling some claim
on the government, had expected and sought
something at their hands, with a view to his sup
port ; (for he had been left wholly destitute) ; and
he came to Athens for that purpose. The
Minister of the Interior not having given him a
reception which pleased or satisfied him, he im
mediately sold his watch (which was all that
remained to him of his father's property) and re
turned to Hydra; and at length, not having
bread to give his numerous family, he blew out
his brains with a pistol.
As the father of the present Tzamados was
looked upon as a true patriot, this catastrophe
made a great sensation at the time ; and the
King, as soon as he heard of the affair, was much
affected, and deprecated the inattention to his
orders ; for it appeared that he had ordered
b 2

4 CHANGE OF GOVERNMENT.
young Tzamados to be appointed to a No-
marchy, and, until one was vacant, something
else was to be given him. His widow and
children were immediately taken under the pro
tection of the King, and an annuity was granted
to them.
A few days after this catastrophe, the ministry
were changed. Mr. George Praides, the Minis
ter of the Interior, quitted office, and his place
was supplied by Mr. Drosso Mansola, a Coun
sellor of State. The post of Minister of Marine,
which had been vacant some time, was now filled
up by Mr. Antonio Kriezis, an Hydriote, — an
officer who had distinguished himself much under
Miaulis as his captain during the war, and who
had also served on board the Hellas frigate,
when Lord Cochrane had the command of her.
This latter nomination gave universal satisfac
tion. Mr. Theokaris, the Minister of Finance,
resigned, and his place was supplied by Mr.
George Lassani.
I think it was the great Frederick who coun
selled his son to change his ministers whenever
there was a crisis ; for that novelty always de
lighted and pleased the people, and thereby enabled
the government to gain an ascendancy. This was,

A GREEK HERO. 5
at all events, the case at the present moment.
People's minds were diverted from the late me
lancholy event, and the power of the Chancellor
was much strengthened by the change.
A Colonel Grivas was one of the chieftains
employed to quell the insurrection I alluded to
just now. I called upon this officer, in company
with Mr. Black, the Chief of Police, in order to hear
his views of the subject of the insurrection. Grivas
is a man about six feet high, very powerful and
muscular, and possessing great animal courage. It
is said of him, that he knows not what fear is, and
that he perfectly delights in war and bloodshed : a
disposition at all events well fitted for the desperate
enterprise now entrusted to him. The Chancel
lor, it appeared, had given him orders to raise
five hundred men, and to proceed to Missolonghi,
to relieve that place, which was besieged by the
rebels, — the wife and children of Grivas himself
being among the besieged.
As he was the hero of the day, the conversation
generally turned upon him ; and I was afterwards
informed that he ran away with the wife of Co-
locotroni's eldest son, (who was the daughter of
Bobalina, a famous female chieftain of Spetzia,)

b GREEK CHRISTENING.
and that a party war was the consequence
between the chieftains, in which the husband was
killed, and Grivas then married his new Helen.
A few days afterwards, I had an opportunity of
seeing him again at my friend Black's house. He
stood godfather to Black's little boy, who was
to be christened ; and as the description of that
ceremony in Greece may amuse the reader, I
will here insert it.
The time appointed was eleven o'clock. After
waiting a few moments, the priest arrived, who,
having put on the insignias of his office, read
prayers, and blessed a large basin of water. The
child having now been stripped quite naked,
Grivas took it in his arms, and placed it on a
cloth that was upon the floor, and well rubbed
its body with a great quantity of holy oil. After
this operation, the priest took the child and
popped it into the water three times, at the same
time calling him Leonidas. After the ducking,
the priest cut some hair from its head, rolled it
up in some wax, and then burned it in the
candle : this ceremony being, as I imagine, in
the nature of a sacrifice or burnt offering. The
godfather, Grivas, then again took the child,

DEPARTURE OF TROOPS. 7
and, as sponsor to it, responded to the priest's
interrogatories. The ceremony was concluded
by an anthem, in which several of the company
joined. Grivas then gave to the priest and his
two attendants five drachmas each. Sweetmeats
and liqueurs were then handed round, and we all
immediately afterwards departed.
At five o'clock the same evening a large con
course of people assembled in the plain, at the
extreme base of the hill inclining from the Areo
pagus, to take leave of the above chieftain, and
wish success to his enterprise against the insur
gents. He was mounted, and attended by his
brother-in-law ; and as he rode through the rank
of the Palikaris that were to accompany him,
they testified their joy by discharging their pis
tols in the air.
The King of Bavaria and his son Otho accom
panied this battalion about two miles out of
the town; for Grivas had made himself a great
favourite with all parties. The troops were
dressed in irregular and various styles, but all
carried pistols and swords at their belts. They
were destined to act in the mountains on the
frontier, where regular troops are of little avail.

8 ROYAL PROCLAMATION.
The battaUon then proceeded to Eleusis, (Lep-
sino,) where they were to stop for the first
night. The troops were paid very high ; each soldier
receiving a drachma a day, which is about double
the ordinary pay. But the case was one of
emergency, and the government wanted picked
soldiers to put down the insurrection.
Previous to the above expedition the King had
issued a proclamation relative to the rebels on the
frontier ; and as it is very energetic, and shews
the vigour of the young Grecian monarch, I shall
copy it. PROCLAMATION.
Greeks of Continental Greece ! Some culpable men are
wishing to trouble the tranquillity that has been established
among us since we have set our foot on the Grecian soil.
You have just given Greece fresh proof of those noble sen
timents which, in every circumstance, have guided your
actions. You have repulsed with indignation those miser
able wretches, wherever they have appeared. You have
answered their discourses only by contempt ; and to their
attempts of violence you have opposed those arms that you
have so gloriously carried.
Inhabitants of Western Greece ! Your noble conduct at
this moment does not astonish me. I expected it from you
with that full conviction that you have always justified, and
it is agreeable to my heart to see it confirmed. Receive,

ROYAL PROCLAMATION. 9
therefore, the testimony of the great satisfaction that I feel
from it, and receive the royal assurance of my reiterated
approbation. But I have been astonished at the blindness
of those traitors who thought that they could deceive you ;
and that with impunity they could represent you, before the
eyes of Europe, as not being friends of order. I have been
astonished at the ingratitude of these traitors, who have been
able to forget that they had once the honour of serving your
King. Greeks of Continental Greece ! The names of Nicholas
Jerva, of Demotzeli, and Malama, have been noted with in
famy, and effaced from the lists of the phalanx : a powerful
arm shall reach these perjured individuals.
Greeks of Continental Greece ! Rely upon the foresight
and energy of the government. It will know how to sup
port your efforts, and keep good order. It shall maintain
your tranquillity. It shall destroy your enemies. Necessary
measures have been taken. The number of troops on the
frontiers has been increased. Distinguished chiefs have
been named to command them. Full powers have been
conferred upon all the civil powers to act according to
circumstances. Men enjoying entirely our confidence have
been sent to govern the two nomarchies ; and measures have
been taken that the laws shall be executed in all their rigour.
However, it is with a paternal indulgence that we shall
grant to those who have been led into error time to return
to their duty. Some ordinances relative to this object will
be immediately published.
Inhabitants of Continental Greece ! Continue to remain
firm in the ardour and zeal that you have shewn for order
and tranquillity. These are the bases of national happiness,
and it is in that that the safety of Greece rests. Your King

10 GREEK REBELS.
makes it the continual object of his attention ; having, for
you and all Greeks in general, a paternal love.
(Signed) Otho.
ARMANSPERG. RIZZO. MANSOLAS.
KRIEZIS.HESS.
Since this proclamation was issued, two thou
sand Palikaris have been raised in different parts
of the kingdom, and sent off to the scene of
action. This body is separated into five divi
sions, commanded respectively by Zavella, Gri
vas, Vasso, Marmouri, and Tzango. The force
of the insurgents is said to amount to between
five and six hundred men.
As may be supposed, the proclamation re
lative to the rebels was the principal topic
of conversation in town. I met, in my walk,
the Doctor Hipitas, who has been some time
in Greece. He related to me the following
story of Nicholas Jerva, who is now at the
head of the rebels : — Just before the arrival of
his Majesty in Greece, this chief had the com
mand of the troops appointed to watch over the
national assembly at Pronia, a village in the

MOUNT PENTELICUS. 11
environs of Napoli di Romania. One thousand
dollars were offered him as a bribe to disperse
this assembly, which he accepted, and entered
among the assembled deputies, — seized some,
robbed others, and frightened the rest away !
On my return this day to the Hotel de France,
(my residence,) some French topographers, who
dined daily at the same hotel, invited me to ac
company them on the following day to visit the
marble quarries of Mount Pentelicus. I had
long wished to make this excursion, and I was
glad to embrace the opportunity of doing so in
the society of scientific men. Accordingly, at
eight the next morning we quitted Athens,
taking that road from the palace which leaves
Mount Anchesmus to the left ; and in half an
hour's ride we arrived at the pretty spot called
Angelos Koipos. Having then proceeded over
a heath, we reached the small village of Ca-
landra. Still proceeding through an unculti
vated country, (the soil of which, however, was
very rich,) we passed through several dried-up
brooks, in which were quantities of the rose
laurel, but not yet in flower. In half an hour
more we arrived at the foot of the mountain.

12 GROTTO OF PENTELICUS.
We then commenced ascending on horseback,
and another half hour brought us to the grotto,
which is at the first quarry, about half way up
the mountain. The principal quarry now worked
is about fifty feet high, and of the purest and
whitest marble, with which the ancient Athenians
were accustomed to build their temples and large
edifices. The marks of their chisels are still
visible on the blocks and huge masses that are
scattered about, and also on the parts whence
these have been detached. Here and there, too,
heaps of fragments still remain, which, possibly,
are the cuttings of those blocks that were hewn
to compose the beautiful edifices with which
Pericles adorned Athens.
Having left our horses in custody of the
servants, we lighted some wax tapers, and
entered the grotto, which is very large, (about
sixty feet square, and about thirty feet in
height.) The water oozing through the rock
has, in the lapse of ages, formed crystaline
pillars. We were obliged to be careful how we
proceeded, for in the inmost part were large
holes about ten feet deep. We descended a few
of these, but observed nothing in them to repay

ASCENT OF THE MOUNTAIN. 13
our curiosity. Some of the crystaline masses
we detached, and found them, on examination,
exceedingly beautiful.
Having satisfied our curiosity, we then satisfied
our hunger, by an excellent breakfast that we
had been provident enough to bring with us, and
which the servants had prepared while we were
exploring the cave. The sun was by this time
very warm ; but we got under an angle of the
rock, which protected us from it.
Having finished our repast, (which we all par
took of with the appetite usual on such occasions,)
we mounted our horses and ascended the moun
tain. The path was very difficult and steep. We
passed several other quarries, all of which bore
marks of the chisel. We also observed holes
made upon the mountain, as if to place wooden
pillars for the construction of a causeway, which
formed an inclined plane from the summit to the
base. Upon this, no doubt, the blocks were
placed, and conveyed to the bottom of the moun
tain upon wheeled trucks ; for, lower down, we
observed, indented in the rocks, the track that
the wheels had made. The distance of the wheels
one from the other was about four feet.
This mountain is about 1,100 metres above

14 VIEW FROM SUMMIT.
the level of the sea ; which is equal to about
3,500 English feet. This measurement is the
correct one, as it was communicated to me by
Captain Gennesse, one of the French topographers
who was of the company, and who had recently
ascertained its height himself. In ascending, we
put up a great many partridges. It was the
breeding season, and they flew in pairs. After
an hour's ride we arrived at the summit, within
fifty feet of which we still found quarries.
We were well repaid for the trouble we had
experienced in the ascent. To the north-east of
us lay the plain of Marathon. Beyond that was
the large island of Negropont ; and although it
was the 6th of March, and in this warm latitude,
we observed that the high land of Negropont was
covered with snow. The town of Chalcis, its
capital, was perfectly distinct. Inclining towards
the north-west, Mount Parnassus was perceptible,
with its snow-clad tops ; and, looking towards
the south-west, the mountains of Tripolizza
(which are in the centre of the Morea) came
into view. To the south-east the view embraced
the numerous islands of the Egean sea. The day
was perfectly clear, the sun shining brilliantly,
and we were enabled to take the utmost advan-

RETURN TO ATHENS. 15
tage of our magnificent position. Having re
mained on the summit about an hour, we again
mounted our horses, (which we had ridden to
the top,) and retraced our steps, riding into
and examining several of the quarries in our
descent. The quantity of marble hewn out of these
quarries conveys a splendid idea of the number
of edifices which must have ornamented ancient
Athens. At the same time, the scene suggested
to our imaginations that hoped-for period when
the modern city may be able to avail herself of
this happy facility for her future adornment. At
present, the Athenians find common lime-stone
plentifully, within a quarter of a mile from Athens,
to construct their houses with ; and they are con
tent with that. But I was most happy to learn
that the government was about constructing a
road to these marble quarries ; and at a subse
quent visit, two months afterwards, the road was
nearly completed.
We arrived at the base of the mountain about
four o'clock. The sun was then verging to the
summit of Mount Anchesmus ; the air was beau
tifully clear ; and in consequence, Athens, though
at the distance of ten miles, appeared close

16 RICHES OF THE PLAIN.
at hand. A beautiful rivulet takes its rise
from a spring which emanates from the monas
tery bearing the name of the mountain, and
which is a little to the right of the ascent. The
stream takes a winding course through the plain,
and waters the adjacent country. The land from
the monastery to Calandra is very rich, and
might be made to produce anything that is
needed. I recommend this spot particularly to
a settler who may come to this country to make
a purchase of land. Athens will every year
increase, as well in extent as in the number of
its inhabitants ; and this plain, stretching in all
directions, (bounded by the mountains Parnese,
Pentelicus, and Hymetus,) is large enough to
support a population of two hundred thousand
• people in the capital. The air is much more
cool and agreeable here than at Athens, and the
country is well wooded with the fir and the
arbutus ; the beautiful rose-laurel is also preva
lent in the dried-up water-courses.
I know of no situation better adapted for
passing the summer months ; and from one of
the rivulets which falls into the Cephisus, and
which is never dry, might be formed tanks to
water the gardens and plantations, and to sup-

EXPENSES AT ATHENS. 17
ply baths, that indispensable luxury of a hot
climate. The distance of this plain is only nine miles
from the town ; and in performing it, Captain
Gennesse, who had been four years surveying the
country, entertained us by singing Greek war-
songs, and in a style so like the Greeks, that the
peasantry who passed us stopped to listen with
admiration to a Frank who could imitate so
closely their national style and pronunciation.
On returning to the hotel, about six in the
evening, the landlord, Luis, and his wife, had
prepared a very good dinner, of which we par
took together. The above hotel, although not
the best in the town, is a very good one. It is
situated in Minerva Street, close to the Post
Office and the Parade, and its situation is per
fectly healthy and pleasant. It forms three sides
of a square, inclosing a court-yard. The land
lord is a Frenchman, and I resided with him for
six months, during which time I found him very
civil and obliging, and always ready to render
me any civility I might need.
It is true that, in the first instance, I was
compelled to pay for the experience I obtained.
VOL. II. c

18 EXPENSES AT ATHENS.
All Englishmen abroad are considered as rich as
Croesus, and they are always looked upon as fair
game ; I was accordingly plucked very hand
somely at first. My expenses for the first month
were thus : — Six drachmas a day for my room,
three drachmas for my dinner, and a drachma
and a half for my breakfast ; making in the whole
ten drachmas and a half a day ; in addition to
which, the servant was charged one drachma a day
more, making eleven drachmas and a half a day ;
which, at 8 Id the drachma, makes 8s. lfrf.
daily. After the first month, I told Louis that I
should remain some time in Athens, and asked
him what he would take per month, to pro
vide me as heretofore. Having consulted with
his better half for a few minutes, he returned
and told me that, for two hundred drachmas
a month (which was about six drachmas and
three quarters a day,) he would give me the
same sleeping room as I had hitherto occupied,
and the same fare — namely, an English breakfast
every morning, composed of tea or coffee, with
toast, and milk and fresh butter, when the two
latter are in season, which is from January till
July and August, and salt English butter at

EXPENSES AT ATHENS. 19
other times ; for dinner, soup and three other
dishes, with a dessert. Thus my expenses, with
the servant, amounted to seven drachmas a day,
(about five shillings.) The cuisine was entirely
French, and I generally found it very good.

c 2

20

CHAPTER II.
Conversation with Doctor Clathos and Mr. Black, relative
to a new Gazette — The Doctor's method of Curing a
Lunatic — The manner in which the Mainotes take the
Law — Pic-nic to Mount Pentelicus, with Mr. and Mrs.
Finlay — Greek Scenery — The two Kings — Insurrection —
King's Proclamation — Visit to Mr. Conduriotti, and to
Madame Catachasi's — Greek Barristers and Judges — Visit
to the Courts of Law — The Law of Greece — Dr. Ma-
niachis.
About this time, my friend Dr. Clathos had
determined on starting a new journal in Athens,
and I had a discussion with him and Mr. Black
on the subject, he and that gentleman having
accidentally met at my apartments. The journal
was to be called the Upmvo; Kvput- — (the Morning
Herald ;) and the question was, whether it should
contain politics or not. I, for one, discoun
tenanced the mixture of political discussion
under the existing circumstances of Greece ; and
it was at length decided that the new under-

COURT JOURNAL. 21
taking should be a sort of " Court Journal,"
confining itself to news of the court and the
town, literature, manners, &c.
About a fortnight afterwards, this journal made
[ its appearance, and I have some numbers by me
at present. It was about the size of a sheet of
foolscap paper, and was published five times a
week. Subscribers paid two drachmas a month
(Is. 7d.) ; persons not subscribing, ten leptas a
paper, (not quite ld.) The contents of it were,
first, the news of the town, — the reviews, the
balls, the dinners, &c. ; then followed news of the
country, — robberies, or any other event. Then
foreign news, and some brief review of a Greek
work that had been published ; and, finally, ad
vertisements, births, marriages, and deaths.
This paper succeeded very well ; nobody op
posed it on the ground of its political bias, &c.
Dr. Clathos was physician to the town hospital,
which contained on an average fifty patients,
who were attended, and supplied with medicines,
free of all expense. The doctor related to me a
very odd incident connected with this establish
ment. He once had a patient there who was
insane, and he had tried everything to alleviate
his malady, but in vain. At last he had recourse

22 CURE FOR INSANITY.
to the experiment of ordering his patient a good
sound beating, morning, noon, and night. The
consequence was magical : the man, just before
being beaten, was always dreadfully frightened
and agitated; and this excess of excitement
caused a counteraction of the disease, and the
patient almost immediately improved. The doctor
then decreased the beatings to two a day, and the
man still improved ; and then to one beating a
day. The poor man progressively improved
under this treatment, and was completely cured.
He is now engaged in trade, as a cabinet maker.
I visited him after this anecdote, and found him
perfectly sane.
Dr. Clathos also mentioned that Count Capo
d'Istrias, when studying medicine in Italy, was in
the habit of visiting a lunatic asylum, to observe
the patients, and that after a time he became
excessively hypochondriacal ; — that his preceptor
hearing of it, prohibited his returning, — telling
him, that by repeated visits he might himself
become deranged. And the doctor confirmed
this view of the subject.
Another event of a very extraordinary nature
occurred about this time, and was related to me
by Mr. Black, the Chief of Police. A Mainote

MAINOTE JUSTICE. 23
had just been cited before the Attorney-General,
for killing a man in his province. The man
frankly acknowledged the affair, and said that
his reason for the act was, that the deceased had
killed one of his relations ; that through the
death of his relative, his clan had been reduced
to thirty-five ; and that the clan of the deceased,
a rival one, was thirty-six in number : he
therefore killed the man in question, solely with
the view of reducing the antagonist clan to the
same number as his own !
The province in which this occurred is called
Maina, — the most southern of the Morea, and a
country so rude and barbarous, that the Turks
could never subjugate it ; nor did they make
many attempts to that end. At every two or
three miles there are small fortifications of
houses, and, like the barons of old, the inha
bitants carry on a predatory warfare, when the
ire of the clan is raised by any insult offered by
a neighbouring one.
A long discussion ensued on the above circum
stances, and we all agreed that the better way to
remedy the evil would be by kind and concili
atory means, — by inviting these rude moun
taineers to the capital, to partake of the good

24 EXTRACTS FROM JOURNAL.
things that were there distributed, — to bask in
the smiles of royalty, to obtain places, — and to
make them so much like the new mode of living
and order of things, that they might not be able
to abandon it, but would carry it back to their
provinces ; and particularly that the people should
be educated. By these mild means the province
of Maina might unquestionably be converted, in
a few years, into a most valuable acquisition to
the state. In fact, subsequently, the government
adopted these wise measures, to a certain extent,
so that the city is now full of Mainote porters.
On employing them, I always found their charges
were very trifling, and themselves a very honest,
civil, and industrious race of people.
I shall now, for the convenience of myself, no
less than from my behef of its being conducive
to the amusement of my readers, make a few
extracts from my journal, just in the simple and
inartificial state in which I find my ideas, and
opinions, and observations, there recorded : —
EXTRACTS FROM JOURNAL.
March 9th. — Having received yesterday a note
from Mr. Finlay, (an old Philhellene,) to accom
pany him and his family, who wished to visit

A PIC-NIC PARTY. 25
the marble quarries at Pentelicus, I accepted the
invitation. Mr. Finlay is one of those English
men I have previously mentioned in my journal, as
having sacrificed to the god Hymen at the Gre
cian altar. Mrs. Finlay is a very pretty, agreeable
person, and is much esteemed by all who know
her. They receive society every night, and I
have passed many happy evenings at their house.
Started this morning at eight o'clock, and
proceeded to Mr. Finlay's on horseback, my
servant having procured me a. very good horse
from the stand at the bottom of the town ; at
which place they may always be had at a mo
ment's notice. Some of the horses at this place
are very good, and the saddles are generally
Itahan, sometimes Turkish, and here and there
you may find a horse with an English saddle.
The price for a good horse is six drachmas a
day, (4s. 3d.)
The party was composed of Mr. and Mrs.
Finlay, Miss Crockett, an English lady, and
some German and Greek officers of the army.
This cavalcade of men and horses made the
quarter quite lively. Finlay lives in the Rue
Adrian, in the upper part of the town, and
this is considered the Chaussee d'Antin of

26 RIDE TO PENTELICUS.
Athens. The English Minister, the Chancellor,
the Russian and Turkish Minister, and General
Church, all reside here ; and in truth it is the
healthiest and best part of the town.
On leaving the city in this direction, you pass
the old palace on the left, and the new one on
the right. We soon reached Mount Anchesmos,
and then hastened to the charming spot of
Angelos Koipos, about two miles out of the
town. Here are two pretty summer resi
dences, — one belonging to Madame Catachasi,
the other to Count Boggiari. We stopped at
Calandra for a few moments, to refresh our
horses, at a fountain which had been constructed
by the Turks, and where some Greek dames
were washing their clothes. We then entered
upon the beautiful and rich plain which stretches
from Calandra to Mount Pentelicus, about five
miles in length. I had passed this a fortnight
before ; but the warmth of the weather had in
that period covered the ground with myriads of
flowers. We rode through beds of anemonies,
of all kinds and colours, and our observation was
attracted by many that were double. The leaves
of the trees were already bursting forth, though
it was only the 9th of March. The aromatic

GREEK SCENERY. 27
herbs with which the plains of Greece abound
were awakening from their winter torpor, and
gave note of their renewed life, by imparting the
most fragrant odour to the air. We passed
several small brooks and rivulets, which took
their source in the Pentelicus, and the banks of
which were covered with the arbutus, the rose
laurel, &c. The warbling of birds, of which
there were numbers in the lofty adjacent trees,
enlivened the scene ; the rippling of the water,
the talk of the party, the neighing of the horses,
who seemed to enjoy the scene as much as we
did, threw over the whole a charm which I shall
not soon forget. We soon began to ascend the
mountain, and arrived at the grotto at about half-
past eleven.* Having satisfied the curiosity of
the ladies as to the wonders and mysteries of
this spot, we proposed to adjourn to the mo
nastery Pentelic, which was about a mile distant,
and where it had been decided that we should
breakfast. On arriving there, and entering the porticos
before the church door, we were agreeably sur
prised to find that the forethought of Mr. and
Mrs. Finlay had provided a delightful repast,
* See a description of this grotto, page 12 of this vol.

28 THE MONASTERY.
including every luxury that we should have met
with at their own house ; and as the ride, and
the keen mountain air, had given us all an extra
appetite, we did ample justice to this opportune
hospitality. We then repaired to the cool shade
of the trees, in the meadows near the monastery,
(for it was now noon, and the heat of the sun
was sultry,) and loitered for some hours, amus
ing ourselves with the usual busy idleness which
is the charm of such excursions as these.
Nothing could be more delightfully rural and
picturesque than the spot we had chosen for the
scene of our stroll. It was about one hundred
and fifty yards from the monastery ; the grass
was beautifully green and perfectly dry ; and the
space was shaded by large elm and plane trees,
the foliage of which already cast a very agreeable
coolness. One of the numerous streams that
come from the adjacent mountains passed round
the monastery, and meandered its way through
the meadow, overhung by some high brushwood;
and the whole scene was of that quiet and sooth
ing cast which is so peculiarly adapted to the
English taste in landscape scenery. The mo
nastery itself is not a very ancient structure ; the
date of a.d. 1760 being sculptured on it.

THE TWO KINGS. 29
At four o'clock we mounted our horses to
return home, where we arrived about six o'clock.
Among the number of persons we met on our
return were, the two Kings, walking arm in arm,
without any attendant, and apparently enjoying,
like ourselves, the beauty of the scenery and the
balmy softness of the air. Such a large caval
cade attracted the attention of the two monarchs,
who returned our salute with the utmost grace
and frankness. We did not reach home with
out my having suffered some inconvenience from
the heat of the sun. I find it is more than in
convenient — it is dangerous — to expose oneself
much to the vernal sun in Greece. It is true,
the rays are not so strong in the month of March
as afterwards ; but being less accustomed to
them immediately after the winter, their effect
is much more decided and more dangerous.
Not having paid a visit for some time to
Mr. George Conduriotti, I called at his house
this evening. Upon my arrival, I found there,
the Minister of Marine, Mr. Kriezis, Mr. Bedouri,
the son-in-law of Conduriotti, and several other
Hydriotes. After I had been there a quarter
of an hour, Kotzakos, one of the King's aides-
de-camp entered. The latter is a Mainote, and

30 RUSSIAN VERSUS GREEK.
a relative of Mavromichali, the principal chief
of Maina. Kotzakos is a true image of the
ancient Greeks, — shrewd, lively, and ardent in
his imagination. I had a most excellent oppor
tunity of making a contrast between him and the
Hydriote. The Hydriote is stern in his manner,
not through any wish to offend, but from the
phlegmatic nature of his disposition. But with
this he has a character noted for honour. Con
duriotti and Kriezis are considered two of the
most upright men in Greece. They were playing
at cards when I went in. The game was Trente-
et-un, and the stakes were moderate.
I afterwards called at the house of Madame
Catachasi, the Russian Minister's lady ; for it was
her reception night. Here I found all the youth
and beauty of Athens ; and although the scene gra
tified me, I could not help regretting the change
that had taken place in this unfortunate country,
since the time of the ancient glory of the
Athenians. The Russian had changed places
with the Greek : at the residence of the former,
the most refined politeness ; at the latter, the
primeval age of society. It is a great pity that
Conduriotti, Bedouri, Colocotroni, Zaimi, and
other distinguished and wealthy Greeks, do not

GREEK ADVOCATES. 31
concert together, and, during the season, receive
society, after the manner of the Europeans. A
stranger arriving in Greece, if he wishes to
observe Greek society, is compelled to frequent
the balls of the foreign ministers, instead of the
houses of the natives.* Notwithstanding my
philosophy, however, I amused myself very much,
and at twelve I returned home to record the re
sult in my journal.
March 13. — While at breakfast this morn
ing, Petzalis called upon me on his way to
one of the courts of law. He is an advocate of
great eminence ; and, having learned from him
that he was to plead to-day, I proposed to ac
company him to the court. Having done so, I
was much entertained by the oratory that both
he and his antagonist, Mr. Skouffos, displayed.
Having, after the trial, dined with Petzalis, at
the Hotel Royale, (the best in the town, kept by
Monsieur and Madame Cassalis,) I made some
inquiries of him, as to the state of the law in
Greece ; and I will put down the substance of
* I have since heard that what I so much desired will
take place in the approaching winter, and that such a slur
upon Greek hospitality will not be allowed to remain.

32 THE LAW IN GREECE.
his reply while it is fresh in my memory ; and,
as nearly as I can, in his own words.
The French law is in general use in this coun
try, with a few exceptions. The Juge de Paix
takes cognizance of petty misdemeanors, and, in
cases of debt, to the amount of twenty drachmas,
without appeal. He also takes cognizance of all
debts to the amount of one hundred drachmas ;
but the parties may appeal to the Cour de la
Premiere Instance {npwro Sixeiov) if the amount be
above twenty drachmas. In this court there are
three judges. The next court is termed the
Court of Appeal, (ecjSetov S«t«o-Twgiov.) This has five
judges. Only two adjudications can be taken on
each suit.
There is another court, termed the Court of
Cassation, ('A^-os ncvyos,) which does not investi
gate the facts. This court is only appealed to
when there has been an error in the application
of the law. Its jurisdiction extends to criminal
as well as civil cases.
In criminal cases, a single degree of jurisdic
tion exists, — in a Cour Correctionelle, or a Cour
d' Assize. The competency of the Cour Correc
tionelle is decided by the gravity of the crime.

THE LAW IN GREECE. 33
When the crime does not exceed imprisonment
for five years, it judges the affair ; if more than
that, the Cour d'Assize takes cognizance of it.
The Cour Correctionelle is composed of five
judges, with a president ; the Cour d'Assize of
five judges and a grand jury, consisting of twelve
persons chosen from the body of the citizens.
No person can be brought to trial unless he pos
sesses a decree of accusation. This decree is
made by the judges of the Court of Premiere In
stance, who assemble privately, and it is granted
at the solicitation of the Attorney-General, who is
charged with the prosecution. The decree of
accusation is subject to appeal, and the judges of
the Tribunal of Appeal judge the decree. The
delinquent must be tried within thirty days.
All commercial transactions are judged by the
Court of the First Instance, before a president,
assisted by two judges taken from the body of
merchants. The Chief of the Law, the Minister
of Justice, does not preside in any of the courts.
He merely watches over the whole ; sees if there
is any derangement in the working of the law ;
and may be termed the link between the courts
and the executive. The laws relating to Bank
ruptcy and insolvency are similar to our own.
VOL. II. D

34 GREEK JUDGES.
Intending to pay Pezzalis a compliment, (which,
however, I thought he well deserved,) I said to
him, "No doubt you will one day be a judge."
" I hope not," said he, " for the salary of a judge
is only 1501. a-year, — hardly enough to give one
a bare subsistence. Whereas now, as a barrister,
I make a thousand pounds a-year with ease."
We both deprecated this system, as highly
dangerous and detrimental to the fair and pure
administration of justice ; since, at a salary like
this, none but incompetent persons can be ex
pected to take, or at any rate to retain, the res
ponsible situation of a judge.*
* At a subsequent period, I learned that Doctor Maniachis,
the Greek gentleman of whom I have before spoken as hav
ing been educated at Cambridge, was appointed a judge at
Patras, upon the above-named miserable stipend ; but after
holding it six months, finding it totally insufficient to sup
port himself, his wife, and his numerous family, he sent in
his resignation, and is now, as a barrister, gaining a hand
some income.

35

CHAPTER III.
The King of Bavaria's intended Departure — Ball at the
Chancellor's Lady's — The King of Bavaria's Amiability
at it — Colocotroni offered to make the Author his
Adopted Son — Coursing Excursion — General Church
and the Chieftains — Author's Political Discussion with
some Greek Chiefs — Russian Intrigue in the Morea —
The Russian Power compared to that of the States its
Neighbours.
In a small state like Greece, — and particularly in
a small town of it, like Athens, containing only
a population of twenty thousand inhabitants, —
everything is known. An arrival or a departure
is talked of, and commented upon, even if it
happen to be that of a private individual. What
must it be, then, if the individual happen to be a
monarch? The King of Bavaria was now (March
.22,. JLSjJii,) on the eve of his departure ; and as
there is a reciprocity of good feeling between
his Majesty and the Greeks, the event caused a
great deal of conversation. On the previous
d2

36 DEPARTURE OF THE KING.
Sunday, his Majesty sent to Conduriotti, Zaimi,
and Peter Mavromicali (the Mainote chieftain,)
members of the Council of State, the Bavarian
order of Merit. The latter being confined to his
room through illness, the King of Bavaria had
the extreme complaisance to go to his house,
and to present him the decoration with his own
hands. This circumstance gave much satisfac
tion to the people in general, and tended much
to increase the good feeling among the Athenians.
The day previous to the King's departure, the
Countess of Armansperg had a grand party at
her house. It was the first party given by the
Countess after the melancholy death (in Septem
ber last) of her eldest daughter, the Princess
Louise Cantacuzene ; and, as it was Lent, there
was no dancing ; but some Italian and German
pieces were performed by amateurs. The King
of Bavaria was present, and conversed much
with the chieftains, with whom he was very
popular. He takes every opportunity of shewing
his predilection in favour of the Greek costume.
On the present occasion, Niketas (the Turk
killer) was dressed in the European costume of a
colonel ; and was standing by the side of Gineos
Colocotroni, the son of old Colocotroni, who

GOOD BREEDING OF THE GREEKS. 37
wore a Greek dress. This attracted the King of
Bavaria's attention, who went up to Niketas,
and said to him, " You must dress yourself in
your native costume, like the other chieftains.
It looks infinitely superior ; besides, it is a na
tional thing."
The society not being very large, (for there
were not more than a hundred and thirty persons
in the room,) I had an opportunity of paying
great attention to these old guerilla heroes, whose
manners, although not polished, are anything but
rude and uncivilized ; on the contrary, from a
species of natural good breeding, they never com
mit the least indecorum. Their respect, as well
to the King of Bavaria as to the young monarch,
is extreme ; and they never lose an opportunity
of shewing it. There were present this evening,
Colocotroni, Griziotti, Niketas, Conduriotti, Be
douri, Zaimi, Drosso Mansolas, Kriezis, Makri-
ani, the sons of Admiral Miaulis, Valtunos, &c.
The King of Greece, who speaks perfectly well
the Greek language, walked about the room be
tween the interludes, addressing the chiefs in
their native tongue. His Majesty's manners are
not forced ; he speaks to all with the greatest
politeness, and he studies to please the nation

38 GREEK CHARACTER.
he is governing, who are prepossessed in favour
of his youth and his natural good disposition.
In fact, the Greeks are, of all people in the world,
the most easily governed by good treatment, and
affability of deportment. The Greeks may be
considered as a vain people ; and the king's
advisers, availing themselves of this quality, are
enabled to use with great advantage the order
which has been created, — that of the Saviour;
and this policy, when well applied, is the most
economical yet effective mode of reward that was
ever invented. In fact, no nation in the world
is more eager for external honour, rank, and all
the appendages of royalty, than the Greeks are ;
and monarchy not being an expensive mode of
government in Greece, the nation will thrive
under it, — especially as it will cause a concen
tration of talent and thinking towards one point.
On the other hand, were the Greek nation a
republic, they would fall again, through their
intestine divisions for supremacy, into the power
of the Turks. One would imagine that they had
studied well the fate of that unfortunate country,
Poland ; which would never have fallen, but for
the intestine divisions created by an elective
monarchy.

THE KING AND THE AUTHOR. 39
Notwithstanding the removal from power of
Count Armansperg, I must here observe that he
may be regarded as an accomplished statesman,
to have overcome the difficulties he has had to
encounter. In fact, he possesses great moral
courage and discernment ; at the same time, he
is slow in carrying his views into effect. His
judgment and prudence have been conspicuously
shewn, in his decision as to the foreign relations
of Greece, and that she should be intimately
connected with Great Britain, — whose wealth,
power, and liberal policy united, can alone afford
Greece that stay and support which she will need
for some years.
A circumstance happened at the party above al
luded to, which, as it was not expected by me, was
the more agreeable. The King of Bavaria makes
a point of having every one introduced to him
who may be either directly or indirectly attached
to the state ; and as I had some relations with
the government, and had been several times at
the balls at which his Majesty was present, the
King recognised my person, and asked General
Church, with whom he was talking, who I was.
Being informed that my name was Cochrane, he
came up to me, and said, " Are you related to

40 COLOCOTRONI AND THE AUTHOR.
Lord Cochrane ?" I replied in the affirmative.
His Majesty then said, " He is a great naval
captain, and fame has extended his name over
the whole world."
A result ensued from this civility, which,
though little expected, and merely personal, was
characteristic enough to be alluded to here.
As soon as the King of Bavaria had ceased
speaking to me, old Colocotroni came up to me,
and, after other marked shows of civility and
empressement, begged to be considered in the
light of a father to me ! — adding, that he had
always had the greatest esteem for me, and value
for my friendship. Before I quitted the above
party, Count Armansperg added to my good
humour, and the pleasure of the evening, by
informing me that the king had granted my
petition, and that it would be carried immedi
ately into effect.
EXTRACTS FROM JOURNAL CONTINUED.
¦-' March 30. — Notwithstanding our racketing
of last night, at the Countess Armansperg's,
I was up by six this morning, to keep a hunting
appointment with Soteriades, at Calandra. I
had procured a good strong horse, with English

SPORTING IN GREECE. 41
saddle, &c, and, after a hasty breakfast, I pro
ceeded to the appointed spot, about five miles
from the city. There were neither pointers nor
greyhounds, but merely a little terrier, and a
kind of shepherd's dog ! But in Greece one is
accustomed to make the most of everything.
On reaching the field, I found young Miaulis,
Colocotroni, Cantacuzene, Soteriades, and Soutzo.
A bine was formed of dogs, men, and horses,
and a hare was started, which the sportsmen
chased for about a quarter of an hour — the dogs
remaining behind with one of the countrymen of
the village. As may be supposed, the hare " stole
away;" and after two hours more galloping and
scampering about the country, we returned to
the village, and, under the shade of a large plane
tree, advantage was taken of Soteriades' hos
pitahty, in the shape of two roasted lambs,
dressed in the Palikari's style. A large wooden
stake was the spit, one extremity of which
was placed upon a stone, and the other end
was turned by a woman of the village, before a
large fire, purposely prepared ; and to keep the
outside of the lambs from being burnt, they were
continually rubbed over with a bit of fat, tied to
the end of a stick. We all of us took part in
forwarding the culinary operations of the scene,

42 A PASTORAL FEAST.
and immediately they were completed no time
was lost in appropriating the results. The
native wines of Scio, Tinos, and Naxos, which
had been well chosen by Soteriades, tended
much to give a zest to this Palikari entertain
ment. Greek pastry was then served to us, and,
to conclude the whole, some honey from Hy-
metus was brought to us by one of the villagers,
and formed an excellent conclusion to our truly
pastoral repast.
The spot we had chosen was about hah0 a mile
from the village, and was well adapted for a
pic-nic. It formed a small ravine about three
hundred feet across, with a rivulet running
through it. There was plenty of herbage for the
horses, and the declivities on each side the ra
vine were fined with large elm and plane trees,
which were now in fohage, — affording a most de
lightful shelter from the rays of the sun.
After the repast, (which lasted about an hour,)
we stretched ourselves out beneath the shade of
the trees, and took a siesta. Afterwards, some
of our number, Miaulis, Cantacuzene, and Colo
cotroni, amused us and themselves by a jumping
match, in which Colocotroni bore away the
palm. As soon as the sun declined, we mounted our

DEPARTURE OF THE KING. 43
horses to return to the city. On our arrival
there we learned that the King of Bavaria had
embarked on board his Britannic Majesty's steam
vessel, Medea, commanded by Captain Austin,
and that the vessel would proceed direct to
Ancona. His Majesty was accompanied to the
beach by the authorities, and General Church, —
who, in a spirit appropriate to the occasion, had
assembled fifty of the Greek chieftains, (without
the king's knowledge,) all in their splendid cos- .
tumes, and mounted on horseback, to escort his
Majesty to the shore. The King of Bavaria was
much pleased by this mark of voluntary devotion
and respect, paid to him by individuals belong
ing to a soil the name of which has ever been
familiar and dehghtful to the King, and has no
doubt originated that correct and classic taste
for which he is so famed all over Europe.

While I was at Athens I made it a rule to be
courteous to everybody, and was always happy
to receive them at my house, however I might
differ from them in political opinions and feelings.
Over a cup of coffee and a tchabouck I heard all
they had to say ; and as the Greek is always

44 GREEK POLITICS.
mightily pleased with you, if you will listen to,
and let him finish, his long-winded discourse, I
humoured them, and by these means saw a great
deal of them, and learned their views and opinions
on the state of the country, and its political and
commercial prospects and affairs.
It was a few days after the departure of the
King of Bavaria, that one morning my friend
Captain Joanni called on me, exhibiting a most
mournful countenance, as if something important
to himself personally had occurred. I took hhn
by the hand, and requested to know what was
the matter. He said nothing had happened re
lating to himself, but that our mutual friend,
Boutet, had been killed by an encounter with the
insurgents on the frontier.
Boutet was a great favourite with all who knew
him. He was on the point of marriage with a
very handsome Athenian lady ; but the insurrec
tion breaking out on the frontier, and it being
requisite that troops should be sent to quell it,
poor Boutet's company was ordered to march
for the scene of strife, near Zeitouni. In
the first encounter, Boutet was at the head
of his company, and having been ordered to
advance, he obeyed in the most gallant manner ;

GREEK INSURGENTS. 45
but an ambuscade was laid for him, and the
troops, finding themselves awkwardly placed in
a cross fire, retreated as fast as their legs could
carry them. Boutet tried to rally them, — gal
lantly keeping his ground ; and while so doing,
a ball from the musket of one of the insurgents
shot him through the head, and he fell lifeless
on the instant. The insurgents immediately
came out in great force, seized his body, stripped
him of everything valuable, and then cut off his
head, as a trophy.
This poor fellow was a Frenchman. He had
entered the Greek service in 1822, and had been
in most of the principal battles fought during the
continuation of it. He had thus escaped all the
dangers of the war ; had, for his bravery ob
tained the rank of a captain ; and was on the
point of crowning his happiness, by settling for
life in the soil of his choice ; — when he was sud
denly cut off, in the flower of his life, and the very
fruition of his hopes !
The feeling of regret and esteem for him was
universal. Poor Joanni was inconsolable. They
had been bosom friends, and had had many rude
knocks in one another's company, when engaged
with the foe.

46 GREEK INSURGENTS.
The grief, however, of a young and lively
Greek is a passion not of long duration. My
friend soon rallied, and I asked him to give me
any news he had heard, as to the progress of the
insurrection. He did so, to the following effect:
" Early in this month, Lieut. -Colonel Hazzi-
petro, accompanied by the Demarch of Ipata,
at the head of one hundred and fifty armed
inhabitants and ten soldiers, went, of their own
accord, to Xeres, near the above place, to drive
away the brigands which had set fire to it. The
latter, to the number of thirty, were vigorously
attacked. Three of them were killed, five were
wounded, and ten made prisoners, and the
robbers were repelled to the frontier beyond
Sperchuis. "The arrival of Colonel Vasso," continued
he, " is expected from day to day. We rely
much upon his presence to re-establish tran
quillity. It is understood that Soter, Stratos,
Zervas, Malamas, and John Barakataris, are
near the town of Caledroni, with two hundred
men. The town is well guarded by its faithful
inhabitants, and by a corps of gendarmerie sta
tioned there. The rebels, despairing of finding ac
complices, have given themselves up to plundering.

RUSSIAN POWER. 47
It is said, they are directing themselves towards
the frontiers, to unite with other brigands of
Oriental Greece."
I observed to Joanni, that all this was very
bad, and I asked him where it would end? " I
know not," said he ; " but this I know, that all
the insurrections are raised by designing people,
whose interest it is to prevent Greece ever be
coming a powerful state. These enemies," con
tinued he, " are in the pay of Turkey and Russia;
Turkey, on account of its being lately dismem
bered from the empire ; and Russia, because
Greece may become a powerful state, and being,
by geographical position, its natural enemy, will
assist in preventing Russia from getting posses
sion of the Mediterranean, even if she should get
Constantinople. This rebellion," continued he,
" does not extend twenty miles beyond the fron
tier. Yet the only way to keep the Turks in
check will be, by placing there the troops of
some powerful state, whose name will carry with
it great moral influence."
While we were speaking, two more Palikari
captains came in, and we recurred to the topic
of poor Boutet's death. My friends had just got
through their first pipe, when I heard another

48 RUSSIAN FORCE.
gentle tap at the door, and in came Constato-
polos, with a paper in his hand. As I was aware
that he was an individual who was of the Rus
sian party, I expected to hear some news, espe
cially as I knew that he always had a motive in
paying me a visit. "Well," said I, " Constato-
polos, what news in Athens ?" " Read that,"
replied he, " and then think of the greatness of
Russia !"
Having seated himself, and taken a pipe, I
took up the paper he had brought, which
was the Sauveur, of the 17th of March, 1836,
and read the paragraph alluded to aloud, for the
benefit of the company, — which, by the bye, had
now been increased by two more Greeks, who
had immediately followed Constatopolos. The
following is the extract : —
La tendance d'extension de la domination Russe parait
maintenant si evidente, qu'il est assez important d'en etudier
les moyens, pour voir le developpement probable qu'elle
peut prendre.
D'apres des rapports assez recens, l'armee imperiale Russe
presente un effectif d'environ 950,000 hommes, exclusive-
ment des colonies militaires et des troupes regulieres. Si ce
systeme se maintient, il est prouve que la Russie aura in-
cessament, outre cette armee actuelle, une reserve d'un
million de soldats, aussi bons que les troupes de ligne, et une
pepiniere perpetuelle qui fournira constaminent des recrute-

RUSSIAN FORCE. 49
mens de soldats exerc^s des l'enfance a l'usage des armes.
Qu'on ajoute a cela une population de 54,000,000 d'habitans,
sur une surface de 300,000 milles carres ; une marine im-
portante, repandue dans la mer Baltique, la mer Blanche,
les golfes de Bothnie et d'Ingrie, la mer noire et la mer
d'Asof, et Ton aura une idee de la puissance absolue de la
Russie, dont la population, qui n'etait que de quatorze mil
lions d'habitans en 1722, s'eleve aujourd'hui a cinquante
quatre millions, et dont le territoire, qui n'etait, il y a un
siecle, que de 75,000 milles carres, presente aujourd'hui une
surface de 300,000 milles carres.
C'est le developpement d'une pareille masse de forces
physiques, qui doit etre un sujet de serieuses reflexions, pour
les nations qui avoisinent cet empire, et meme pour l'Europe,
si elle acquiesce quelque temps encore a ce principe d'en-
vahissement sans terme. Pour s'en convaincre, il suffit de
connaitre la puissance relative des etats limitrophes de la
Russie. Adosse au nord et au nord-est a des mers glacees,
a l'Amerique polaire ; a Test, au sud-est et au sud, aux
deserts de la Tartarie Chinoise ou Mongole ; l'empire Russe
n'a de contact avec le monde civilisf} qu'a l'ouest et au
sud-ouest. Des mers interieures bornent ses possessions :
mais ces mers ne sont pas libres, et sont fermees par des de-
troits ; la mer Baltique, par le Sund et les Belts ; la mer noire
par la Propontide et le Bosphore ; deux desavantages de sa
position geographique. Les Anglais peuvent, ainsi qu'ils
l'ont fait deux fois, lui fermer les detroits du nord, et lui
interdire le passage des Dardanelles."
Le grand interet de la Russie, que lui a solemnellement
legue Pierre-le-Grand, qu'a poursuivi Catherine II. et que
poursuit l'empereur Nicolas, est d'affranchir les eaux meri-
VOL. II. E

50 POWER OF RUSSIA.
dionales de son empire, en dominant sur les deux rives du
Bosphore. La domination de la mer Caspienne est d'un interet
secondaire, qui se poursuit lentement et avec succes, malgre
l'Angleterre. Le Cabul, le Belochistan, n'offrent maintenant
que des interets de commerce ; mais qui se poursuivent en
vue d'un interet relatif, qui peut devenir absolu ; c'est-a-dire,
la repression de la puissance Anglaise dans l'lnde.
In closing this sentence, all the Greeks ex
pressed their sense of the impression created on
their minds by these details : " What power !"
"What greatness !" &c. — these were their ejacu
lations. " But in what is Russia powerful?" said I.
" In her nine hundred and sixty thousand
men," was the reply, " that they can bring into
the field whenever they choose. Their power is
colossal as that of Napoleon."
" But power," replied I, " does not consist in
numbers being spread over a great surface, but
in the concentration of numbers in a small space,
and in the capacity of bringing those numbers
into actual and active operation.
Napoleon gained all his victories by his great
personal activity, and his concentration of force.
Do you think that France would have been so

PRINCIPLE OF MILITARY POWER. 51
powerful and strong during the revolution, had
she been three times as large, with the same
number of inhabitants ? Certainly not ; for
she would have had a greater extent of ter
ritory to defend, and not have had power
equal to doing so. Look at Prussia, — which
possesses only twelve millions of souls, and a
standing army of three hundred thousand men.
She could bring two hundred thousand of them
to bear upon any point, in one fourth of the time
that Russia could bring the same quantity. The
principle in war is, activity in directing a force ;
therefore the Prussians could march, gain a
battle, and a kingdom, while Russia was mov
ing her men from one end of the empire to the
other. Take another example, gentlemen : look
at your own Acrocorinthus, — 1200 yards long,
and 5000 yards in circumference, — the largest
fort that you have in Greece, and which would
require, to defend it properly, at least three thou
sand troops. Suppose you had but a thousand
troops to put into it. Those thousand troops would
not be able to take every advantage of its situa
tion, by manning it in an effective manner, so as
to prevent the attack of an enemy ; but reduce
e 2

52 WEAKNESS OF RUSSIA.
that fortress to one third its size, and put the
thousand men into it, the position would be
maintained for a much greater length of time.
Most of these politicians had been Palikaris,
and had fought under Niketas in taking the
Acrocorinthus from the Turks, when commanded
by Abdallah Bey, (7th Nov. 1823,) and the argu-
mentum ad hominem came home to them at once.
" Recollect," continued I, " that men can
march only thirty miles a day ; and therefore to
take men from St. Petersburgh to three thousand
miles off, (which would then only be in the heart
of the empire of Russia,) would require one hun
dred and fifty days, — almost six months ! If
Russia were strong enough, be assured she would
take Constantinople, without asking the consent
of any European power." — "Take Constan
tinople !" exclaimed they, — " that should be the
business of Greece !" — " Nothing should be the
business of Greece," said I, " but to take care of
and improve what she possesses. If you act
otherwise, while you are dreaming of possessing
Constantinople, Russia will take it, thirty years
hence, and then take Greece afterwards !" On
this, Captain Constantinides, one of the Palikaris,

WHAT IS POWER ? 53
pulled his mustachio, and exclaimed, " that if
they had been able to drive out the Turks when
they were in a state of slavery, and without
political power, surely they could drive out the
Russians when they had become a powerful and
independent state." — " To what do you attach
the word powerful," said I. — " We have," was
the reply, " ten thousand men in our fastnesses,
and we could raise a great many more, if re
quired." — " But have you money to pay all these
troops? Recollect that you are talking to a
person who was in Greece during the war, and
who was an eye-witness to the disunion and
inefficiency of the troops, arising solely from the
want of pay. Take advice : be unanimous
among yourselves, and become wealthy by com
merce. Invite that nation to your shores which
will bring you the most wealth through com
merce ; and supply the want of means to till
her lands, under which Greece suffers, by en
couraging immigration from other states, to the
amount of five or six millions. You will then
be able, with that amount, to enter the lists with
Russia, and, by the assistance of other nations
who are hostile to the Russian empire, you will

54 GREEK LANDHOLDERS.
perhaps, some day or other, get possession of
Constantinople." The Capitani, at this speech, pricked up their
ears, and fixed their eager eyes steadfastly on the
wall of my room, looking as if they fancied them
selves planting the standard of the cross upon the
domes of St. Sophia. — " But," said one of them,.
" if we admit foreigners to settle in our country,
they would, by their wealth, become possessed of
our land ; and to part with that would be a hard
thing." — I knew that two or three of these Capi-
tanis possessed a great quantity of land ; I there
fore said to one of them, " What quantity of
land do you possess ?" — " About 800 stremata,"
was the reply. — " And what quantity of it
have you cultivated ?" — " About sixty stre
mata." — " Why don't you cultivate more ?"
" Because I have no money." — " Will you, then,
sell your land ?" — " If I could obtain a reasonable
price for it." — "Will the Greeks give that price?'*
"No." — "Then you are like the dog in the
manger : you will neither cultivate the land your
self, nor allow others to cultivate it. You be
come impoverished because there are no persons
to till the land which your forefathers left you.

IMMIGRATION TO GREECE. 55
The value of a thing is according to the demand
there may be for it. If there are a few persons
in Greece, there will be few or no competitors for
your land ; if there are a great many in Greece,
the 740 stremata that are uncultivated of your
estate would be purchased by them. You would
then be a rich man, and not only possessing the
60 stremata which you before possessed by culti
vation, but the 760 in your pocket, in the shape
of money, which now are of no value to you but
a nominal one. You could then turn your views
to commerce ; your family would be comfortable,
and you would be a member of an independent
and powerful state, strong enough to protect itself
from the insults of your neighbours. Whereas
now you are quite the contrary ; the great re
sources of your country are latent, and you are
compelled to ask loans of other nations."
The Capitani, during this speech, seemed not
a little struck by my arguments, and, after a
little pause, one of the landed proprietors took
the lead, and said, " We are now perfectly con
vinced by the arguments you have adduced, and
we are certain that every other Greek would be the
same were the question stated in a similar manner ;
they would at once find it to their interest to re-

56 RUSSIAN INTRIGUE.
ceive foreigners among them. You are going to
Europe : we know that you are actuated by feel
ings of good will towards Greece ; we therefore
hope that you will influence your friends to come
and settle among us." I rephed, that it gave me
much pleasure to hear such sentiments from
them, and that there was no other way to make
themselves a great nation than by receiving all
the world, of whatever nation they may be, but
particularly those nations the subjects of which
are wealthy. " When I am in England," I con
tinued, "everything shall be done, so far as pro
mulgating favourable feelings relative to you ; but
before you can persuade European nations to come
into continental Greece, means must be taken
to ensure the safety and quiet of the frontier.
The Morea, Negropont, and the islands, are safe
enough." The tables were now completely turned on my
friend, Constatopolos, who came to visit me
solely to shew up the strength of Russia ; whereas,
not one of the party would agree that Russia was
a powerful nation abroad, whatever she might be
at home. The fact is, that the Russian party had
inserted the paragraph in question to prop up the
waning Russian interest in Greece.

POWER OF ENGLAND. 57
Constatopolos was stung to the quick, and he
said to me, " You are always talking about the
strength of England, but where does it lie ?" —
" It lies," replied I, " not in the numerical
strength of her subjects, (which, however, with her
dependencies, doubles that of Russia,) but in her
immense naval armaments, which can transport
an immense force (say 100,000 men) to any one
point or quarter of the globe, whether north,
south, east, or west ; and as we possess the do
minion of the seas, no one can impede us. As I
have said before, force and power consists in
quickness of action with a large collective force,
and there is no mode equal to that of a fleet in
conveying any great armament with rapidity."
Finding himself foiled here, he inquired of me,
with some show of surprise, in what way the nu
merical force of Great Britain and her depen
dencies exceeded that of Russia. I replied, that
Great Britain and Ireland counted twenty-eight
millions, India one hundred millions, the Canadas
four millions, West Indies, three millions, Cape
of Good Hope, half a million, New Holland, half
a million, and various other places two millions
more ; all which millions are kept compactly to
gether, as though they formed one united solid

58 EUROPEAN POLICY.
empire, by means of our vast and irresistible
fleets. The above sums amount to 138 millions,
inhabiting an extent of earth about one half the
size of the empire of Russia, which contains
about fifty-four millions of souls.
" I agree with you," replied I, in conclusion,
" that Russia may, thirty or forty years hence,
if she remain at peace, become very strong,
and her possessions in the Black Sea might be
come very powerful ; but it will be the duty
of other European nations to take advantage of
circumstances, and raise new kingdoms near her,
in order to struggle and fight with her for territory;
and also to endeavour to regenerate Turkey. Only
let Greece be a constitutional monarchy, with a
free press — let it become powerful in numbers
and in wealth — and it will be the best safeguard
against any encroachments on the part of Russia
in the Bosphorus."

59

CHAPTER IV.
Good Friday — Easter — The King goes to the Cathedral —
Description of the Ceremony — Historical Sketch of the
Greek Church — Difference between the Greek and Roman
Churches — Separation of the two — Biographical Sketch of
Mr. Tricoupi.
Greece is famous for its fast days and holidays.
The Easter which I had been accustomed to keep
in Western Europe had passed, and I was to
have the pleasure of witnessing another in the
same year ; for, as I have said before, the Greek
and Russian calendars are. twelve days later than
ours. Good Friday is a day of great ceremony in
Athens. At half-past ten in the evening, high
mass was performed in the cathedral church of
St. Irene, by the bishop of Athens, assisted by
several other bishops. After the ceremony, a
procession took place through the town. The

60 EASTER EVE.
bishop was preceded by a body of military, and
a military band, playing the dead march in Saul.
At every hundred paces they stopped for five
minutes, and then proceeded again. The bishop
was accompanied by the rest of the synod, and
the principal notables and gentry of the kingdom
followed the cortege, which must have extended
two hundred yards in length, for at least three
thousand people composed it. On their arrival
at the palace his Majesty appeared at one of the
windows, and bowed to the bishop and the people.
The effect was very striking, as many of the
persons composing the procession held lanthorns
on the tops of long poles ; others had long wax
tapers, by which the whole was perfectly well
illuminated. The cortege, having stopped for
five minutes before the palace, the bishop uttered
a prayer for the preservation of his Majesty, and
then he and his suite proceeded back to the cathe
dral of St. Irene by a different route.
On the following day, (Easter-eve,) the cere
mony at the cathedral church was graced by the
presence of royalty. At eleven o'clock in the
evening I proceeded to the cathedral of St. Irene,
in company with Colonel Hay, of the guards, who
had just arrived at Athens. We went early, and

EASTER EVE. 61
procured a standing place within twelve feet of
the throne. The monarch and his suite arrived at
a quarter before twelve o'clock, accompanied by
a detachment of the guards. After he had
placed himself on the throne, which was an
elevation of about three feet, the ceremony com
menced. It was at midnight precisely that
the anthem Xpio-w «veo*te (Christ has arisen)
was sung, the bishop of Athens at the same
time scattering incense all around.
After this anthem, another was sung for the
preservation of his Majesty, arranged to the air
of " God save the King," and I observed very
plainly the delight his Majesty experienced. For
my own part, the national air of my country,
the scene, the novelty of seeing the King of
Greece thus situated, the founder of a monarchy
which may hereafter rival its ancient days of
renown, gave me emotions which the sanctity of
the place could scarcely keep me from expressing.
Four stanzas of this anthem were sung. On the
left, and in the front of his Majesty, were his
ministers, the counsellors of state, and his Greek
chieftains, in their splendid uniforms. I observed
Conduriotti, Bedouri, Drosso Mansola, Kriezis,
Mankriani, and several others. I did not observe

62 THE GREEK CHURCH.
any of the foreign ministers. The King, when
he entered, bore a large wax taper in his hand,
and he held it for about an hour, and then gave
it to his aide-de-camp, Kotzakos. The Athenian
ladies were situated opposite the throne, on the
left side of the church. They were separated
from the male spectators by a partition. The
King remained till half-past one, when, all the
prayers being finished, he descended the throne,
and passed through the guards, which formed an
avenue within the church, and entered his car
riage, which conveyed him back to the palace,
escorted by the detachment of mihtary, who had
persons on their sides bearing torches.
The present may perhaps be deemed no unfit
occasion for offering to my readers a brief his
torical sketch of the Greek Church in the East,
and also of the difference between that and the
Roman church.
It was from Jerusalem that the Christian
Church first took its rise. There Clirist suffered
death upon the cross ; and upon the day of the
Pentecost, a.d. 34, being ten days after the
Ascension, the Apostles were indued with the
gifts of the Holy Ghost, and entered upon their
mission, promulgating the law of Christ ; and no

THE GREEK CHURCH. 63
less than three thousand souls were converted by
St. Peter's first discourse at Jerusalem. The num
ber of converts rapidly increased ; — which excited
the jealousy of the Jews, and a persecution com
menced. Among the most inveterate of the
enemies of the Christians was St. Paul, who was
converted on his journey to Damascus, and be
came one of the apostles of Christ.
About that time, St. Paul, who had become
one of the apostles, was ordained bishop, and
sent to preach among the Gentiles. In the
reign of Claudius Csesar, he entered the pro
vinces of Asia, Pisidia, Pamphylia, Lycaonia,
Phrygia, Galatia, Mysia, and Greece ; and at
Athens and Corinth he made many converts.
Greece was at that time a Roman province.
Its destiny was sealed by Paulus iEmilius, who
made Perseus, king of Macedon, prisoner, 168
years before Christ; and from that period the
kingdom of Macedon was declared a Roman
province. Athens submitted to the yoke, and
Corinth was subdued by one of the Roman
consuls, 146 b.c. ; and all the Morea of Greece
followed the example of the states of the con
tinent of Greece, by acknowledging the Romans
for their masters.

64 THE GREEK CHURCH.
The Christian religion in the provinces thence
forth suffered the same fate as it did in Rome
itself, — namely, it was tolerated or not, accord
ing to the personal disposition of the reigning
emperor. The first persecution of the Christians at
Rome was under Nero, a.d. 64. After the fall
of Nero, a.d. 68, Galba, who commanded in
Spain, mounted the imperial throne ; and from
him the sceptre passed, in quick succession, into
the hands of Otho, Vitellius, and Vespasian ; and
under the -latter reign Jerusalem was taken by
his son Titus, for which he had a triumph.
Titus was the next in succession ; and after
him Domitian, his brother, who commenced the
second persecution, a.d. 93.
On the death of Domitian, Nerva succeeded,
who protected the Christians ; and next in succes
sion was Trajan, under whose reign was the third
persecution, a.d. 101 ; and it was in this latter mo
narch's time that Pliny, the governor of Bithynia,
wrote to the emperor, saying, that he could find
no fault among them. St. Clement, the Bishop
of Rome, suffered death under him, a.d. 107,
and so did his successor, Anacletus ; and to him
Evaristus succeeded. Trajan persecuted them for

THE GREEK CHURCH. 65
eighteen years, and to him succeeded Adrian,
a.d. 150, who sacrificed Evaristus and Alexan
der, the bishops of Rome. To these succeeded
Sixtus, Telesphorus, and Hyginus ; the two first
suffered death under Adrian, the last under An
toninus Pius, his successor in the empire.
Upon the death of Antoninus Pius, a.d. 161,
two princes, with joint power, ascended the
throne, Marcus Aurelius Antoninus, and Lucius
Verus; and during their reign, a.d. 168, the
fourth persecution commenced, in which Pope
Amcetus fell a victim to their fury.
About the year 179, M. Aurelius issued a
decree favourable to the Christians, which re
called many of them to Rome, who had absented
themselves. Marcus Aurelius died in 180, and
was succeeded by his son, Commodus ; at which
time the Christian faith made some progress in
Great Britain, and Lucius, the king of that
country, was the first Christian king.
From the death of Aurelius in 180, the church
enjoyed a free exercise of its religion for twenty
years, during the successive reigns of Commodus,
Pertinax, and the seven first years of Severus ;
at which time, a.d. 202, the fifth persecution
commenced against them.
VOL. II. F

G6 THE GREEK CHURCH.
Severus died at York, a. d. 213, and to him
succeeded Caracalla and Geta. As soon as they
reached Rome, the latter was assassinated ; and
at the end of four years the former met the same
fate, from Macrineus, the commander of the
guards. Macrineus enjoyed the crown for one
year, when, being slain by his own soldiers, he
was succeeded by his son, Antonius Helio
gabalus. After a short reign, the emperor was
murdered, and thrown into the Tiber, when
Alexander Severus, his cousin-german, a prince
of good qualities, and friendly to the Christian
religion, succeeded him in the year 224. Not
withstanding his protection, the two popes, Cal-
listus and Urbanus, suffered death.
The Emperor Alexander, while marching against
the Germans, was slain by the contrivance of
Maximin, who had gained the good will of the
army. It was during the reign of this monarch that
the sixth persecution commenced, a.d. 237, when
Pope Pontianus, and his successor, Anterus, are
in the list of those who suffered. This persecution
lasted three years, until the death of the tyrant,
who was killed a.d. 240, and was succeeded by
Gordianus, a youth of sixteen years of age.

THE GREEK CHURCH. 67
The church enjoyed the free exercise of reli
gion during the reigns of Gordianus and Philip ;
the latter having gained the crown by assas
sinating his sovereign, and lost it again in the
same horrid manner, by the hand of his son,
Decius. It was during this monarch's reign
that the seventh persecution commenced. Among
those who suffered was Fabianus, the bishop of
Rome ; and after his death the See remained
vacant for fifteen months, until the death of
Decius, a.d. 251, when Cornelius was chosen.
Decius was assassinated by Gallus, who
mounted the throne, but was almost immediately
succeeded by Emilian ; and during his short reign
the church breathed; but he in turn was killed, and
was succeeded by the emperor Valerian, a.d. 254,
who, three years afterwards, commenced the
eighth persecution against the Christians. This
emperor was made prisoner by Sapor, the Persian
monarch. The supreme power then devolved
upon his son, Galienus, who was assassinated,
and succeeded by Claudius, who reigned only
three years. Aurelian succeeded ; and during
his reign the ninth persecution took place, a.d.
274, in which Pope Felix fell a victim. Aurelian
being assassinated as he was about marching
f 2

68 THE GREEK CHURCH.
against Sapor, the Persian monarch, the im
perial sceptre, after his death, passed, in the
space of ten years, through the hands of Tacitus,
Probus, Carus, and Carinus, when the voice of
the army placed it in the hands of Dioclesian,
who held it twenty years.
Dioclesian shared his power with Maximinian,
a rough soldier ; and they, after nine years,
judged it expedient to have two other colleagues,
of an inferior rank, with the title of Caesars.
Dioclesian chose Galerius, a private individual,
and Maximinian chose Constantius Chlorus, a
prince by descent, nephew to Claudius II. , and
lineally descended from Vespasian. The empe
ror Aurelian had employed him in Great Britain,
where he married Helen, the daughter of Coel, a
leading man of that country, and by her had a son,
the renowned Constantine, born at Colchester.
At Constantius' association to the empire, it
was stipulated that he should divorce Helen, and
marry Theodora, the daughter-in-law of Maxi
minian. The church had enjoyed peace for twenty
years, when, during the year 302, Dioclesian,
instigated by Galerius, commmenced the tenth
persecution.

THE GREEK CHURCH. 69
That part of the empire, Gaul and Britain,
which was under the care of Constantius, did
not suffer so much as the rest. This lasted three
years, when Dioclesian and Maximinian, a. d.
305, were obliged to give up the diadem into the
hands of Galerius, who had returned victor from
the Persian war. The latter having the sole power,
made Constantius Chlorus his colleague in the
imperial crown, and created two new Caesars : he
nominated Severus, and Maximin, — the latter
being his own nephew. Galerius being jealous of
Constantine, the son of Constantius, kept him
as a hostage at Rome, but allowed him to depart
after a time, to visit his father in Britain, who
was ill. Constantine arrived at York, and found
his father still alive ; the latter died shortly
afterwards, on the 25th July, 306, appointing
Constantine his successor in the empire.
Constantine was by birth a Briton, and the
legitimate son of Constantius and St. Helen. He
had completed his thirty-third year, and was
acknowledged as an accomplished prince. Ga
lerius considered him as his enemy, but on ac
count of Constantine's popularity, was obliged
to let him take the title of Caesar, with the au
thority annexed.

70 THE GREEK CHURCH.
Old Maximinian was still alive, and wished to
regain the imperial crown, and his son, Maxentius,
declared himself a competitor for the crown of
Severus. Licinius had the promise of Galerius
to be made his associate in the empire.
Both of these, therefore, were Constantine's
enemies. Constantine, having performed the
last duties to his father at York, passed over
into Gaul, and headed the army which waited
his command, and he was proclaimed emperor.
Maxentius, the rival of Severus, took upon him
self the title of Augustus, and was joined by his
father, Maximinian, who again seized the sceptre.
These two emperors attacked and deprived Seve
rus of his crown and life.
Galerius then declared Licinius his imperial
colleague, and led his army in person into Italy,
with the hope of cutting off Maximinian. But
he was obhged to retreat to Nicomedia.
Maximinian then joined Constantine, and of
fered to acknowledge him for his colleague, pro
vided that he married his daughter, Fausta;
to which Constantine consented, although he
was married to Minervina, by whom he had
a son, Crispus. The latter he was therefore
obliged to divorce, the imperial law permitting

THE GREEK CHURCH. 71
it : for at that time Constantine was not a
Christian. Maximinian grew jealous of his son, Maxen
tius, and sought to depose him ; but failing, he
fled to Gaul, where he raised an insurrection
against Constantine, his son-in-law. The latter
marched against him and took him prisoner, but
afterwards set him free. But Maximinian com
mencing another sedition, Constantine caused him
to be strangled, in the year 308. Galerius, a
short time afterwards, died at Sardis, in 311.
Upon the death of Galerius, Maximin took the
title of emperor, in opposition to Licinius ; and
in order that he might make good his claim, he
entered into a strict alliance with Maxentius, the
sovereign of Italy and Rome. This alliance inflat
ing the pride of Maxentius, the latter fancied him
self sufficiently powerful to subdue the west to his
obedience, — and with this view he declared war
against Constantine. The latter quitted Gaul
with his army, penetrated into Italy, and ad
vanced as far as the bridge, Milvius, now called
Ponte-Mole, two miles from Rome. There he
pitched his tent, resolving to come to an action.
It is stated that, when Constantine had reached
the plains of Italy, while marching at the head

72 THE GREEK CHURCH.
of his troops, at mid-day, a luminous cross ap
peared in the open sky, above the sun, and upon
the cross a legend expressing victory, written in
Greek characters, sv tovtco vma. — " In this be thou
conqueror." To commemorate the fact, an exact repre
sentation of the cross, as it appeared, was or
dered to be made, and blazoned in the imperial
banner, which fifty chosen men were appointed
to carry before the Emperor, whenever he went
to battle.
A battle took place, when Maxentius was de
feated ; and, in attempting to save himself over
a bridge, fell into the Tiber, and was drowned.
This victory, which happened on the 27th Oct.
312, made Constantine Emperor of the West.
Rome opened her gates, and the senate, four
years afterwards, erected to his honour a tri
umphal arch, which is still to be seen at the
head of the Appian way.
Constantine having stayed one year at Rome,
proceeded to Milan, and there met Licinius, to
whom he gave his sister, Constantia, in marriage.
It was then agreed, that no Roman subject
should be molested for his religious opinions,
a.d. 313.

THE GREEK CHURCH. 73
This gave offence to Maximin, the tyrant of
the East, who hated the Christians. He there
upon invaded Thrace, but was defeated by Li
cinius, — forcing him to fly for safety into Asia,
where he poisoned himself. Thus the whole
empire was under the sway of Constantine, who,
though a protector of the Christian religion, still
was not himself a Christian.
He gave the palace of Lateran as a residence
to the bishops of Rome, and an adjoining palace
he converted into a church, now called the
Church of St. John of Lateran. This was the
first patrimony of the popes.
Constantine allowed his brother-in-law, Lici
nius, to reign in the East ; but the latter, ambi
tious of power, made war against Constantine.
Licinius, having lost two battles and his crown,
was pardoned by Constantine, who generously
gave him back the crown.
Licinius provoked a new war by prosecuting
the Christians, and instigated the Sarmatians to
invade the Roman territory ; which insult Con
stantine avenged, by overthrowing Licinius, after
various battles.
Constantine was thus sole Emperor of the

74 THE GREEK CHURCH.
East and West, and shortly afterwards was bap
tized at Rome, in 324.
The Emperor Constantine, openly protecting
the Christians, rendered himself odious to the
senate and the Roman people, and it was probably
through their dislike to him that he transferred the
seat of empire to Byzantium, (Constantinople.)
By this step he changed entirely the Roman
empire, the throne, the manners of the court,
customs, language, dress, and rehgion, of the
Romans ; and there is no doubt that the power of
Italy fell as Constantinople rose. But in trans
ferring the throne to the Bosphorus, Constantine
placed in the East a barrier against the incursions
of the barbarians who inundated the empire —
thus sacrificing the West to the East. The pagan
religion of the Romans, notwithstanding the re
moval and change, preserved its ancient influence,
with its seven hundred temples, great and small,
dedicated to the superior and inferior gods.
Matters remained thus until the death of
Theodosius, a. d. 395 ; and the people of the
country places remained true to their ancient
worship for a considerable time after its extinc
tion elsewhere.

THE GREEK CHURCH. 75
This lt is that gave to the sectaries of the an
cient religion the name of Pagans, from the word
pagus, the Latin for village ; the country remain
ing the stronghold of the old faith ; and so it con
tinued till the eighth century.
Constantine gave largely to the cathedral
church of St. John, at Rome ; and each succeed
ing emperor largely endowed it ; so that the pa
trimony of the See at Rome became very powerful.
The head of the Roman church did much good
to the poor ; and the pastor of the Christians at
Rome became very soon the most considerable
man in the West.
Things remained in this state until the year
866, when the great schism took place ; and from
the time of Constantine the Great until the time
of the division of the eastern church from the
western church, or the Greek church from the
Latin church, (including about five hundred and
fifty years,) there had been numerous dissensions,
and to endeavour to heal these differences eight
general councils were held.
The separation occurred in the following man
ner, a. d. 858 : — Ignatius was patriarch at Con
stantinople during the reign of Michael III., and

76 THE GREEK CHURCH.
the latter banished and deposed Ignatius, and put
Photius in his place, who had been the Emperor's
secretary and master of the horse. On the first
day, Photius was made a monk ; the second, a
reader ; the third, a sub-deacon ; the fourth, a
deacon ; the fifth, a priest ; and on the sixth, a
patriarch,- — which was on Christmas-day, 858.
Pope Nicholas took the part of Ignatius, and
excommunicated Photius ; and Photius, in his
turn, excommunicated the Pope. This brought
on a schism, which (a.d. 866) was the commence
ment of the separation of the two churches, — and
which was completed in the year 1053 ; at which
time Constantine Monochus was Emperor of Con
stantinople ; St. Leo IX. was Pope at Rome ; and
Michael Cerularius was Patriarch at Constan
tinople. The principal feature in the difference between
the Greek and Roman church is, that the Greeks
hold that the Holy Ghost proceeds only from the
Father ; the Roman catholics, on the other hand,
believe that the Holy Ghost proceeds from the
Father and the Son ; in which latter belief the
established church of England concurs.
This was the point of contention between the

THE GREEK CHURCH. 77
Greek and Latin church, and which caused those
numerous councils to be held, to endeavour to
assimilate the ideas of both parties.
The other points on which the two churches
differ are of comparatively trifling importance.
In the 9th, 10th, and 11th centuries, the
Christian religion extended itself over Bulgaria,
Hungary, Bohemia, Saxony, Denmark, Norway,
Sweden, Poland, and Russia.
It was about the end of the 8th century that a
woman was destined to introduce Christianity
into the immense empire of the north. A sister
to the Emperors Basil and Constantine married
the Czar of Russia, and she prevailed upon her
husband to be baptized. The Russians followed
the example of their sovereign, and the Rus
sian empire received the Greek faith and rites,
which still prevail there.
In the year 1453, the Sultan, Mahomet II. ,
besieged Constantinople, with 300,000 men, and
a powerful train of artillery ; and on the 29 th of
May he gave orders for a general assault to be
made ; when the city was taken, and Constantine
Paleologus, the Emperor, was killed. The Pa
triarch Gregory had retired to Rome, and
his place was supplied by Gennadius, who

78 THE GREEK CHURCH.
was installed, by order of the Sultan, with the
usual ceremony, — the latter wishing to ingra
tiate himself with his new subjects.
Ever since that time, the Patriarch of Constan
tinople has been under the power of the Sultan:
Since the accession of the present dynasty in
Greece, it has been deemed prudent by the state
to sever the connexion between Greece and Con
stantinople in matters of rehgion; and the Primate
of Athens does not acknowledge the Patriarch of
Constantinople as his superior, but calls himself
the first of the Greek faith in the kingdom of
Greece ; I shall therefore briefly state the man
ner in which this separation took place.
After the murder of the Greek Patriarch at
Constantinople, which took place at the com
mencement of the Greek revolution, the emanci
pated Greeks no longer wished to recognise the
supremacy of his successors, as named by the
Sultan who caused the death of the chief of their
church, and as instruments of his will against
their struggles for independence ; and they re
fused to receive the new bishops since named in
Greece ; but there was no formal act of protesta
tion or separation.
As soon, however, as the political independence

THE GREEK CHURCH. 79
of Greece was established, the Greeks thought
that this independence could not be perfectly
consolidated without there existed also an eccle
siastical independence.
The Patriarch was nominated by the Sultan,
and the Sultan was entirely submissive to the
Emperor of Russia, who is until this moment the
only crowned head of the Greek religion. There
were, therefore, two serious inconveniences aris
ing from it, and one could easily foresee all that
would result from this state of things, against
the political independence of Greece. There
were many Greeks who thought seriously upon
it, and Mr. Tricoupi was one of the most
fixed and ardent in promulgating this opinion.
The President, Capo d'Istrias, to whom they had
spoken upon the subject, did not wish to take
any proceeding relative to it ; — whether itwas be
cause he was a provisional chief of a provisional
government, or that he was influenced by Rus
sian policy, which was quite opposed to the idea
of separation ; for in that event they could not
be sure of the clergy.
At the arrival of the king and the regency, in
1833, this great affair was taken into serious
consideration. The separation had been resolved

80 THE GREEK CHURCH.
upon in the council of the regency; but it was ne
cessary to find a man who, by his political senti
ments, and by the confidence he could inspire by
the firmness of his religious faith, might dissi
pate the alarm of the high clergy, and thus pro
vide for the full success of the measure ; and it
was determined on all hands that Mr. Tricoupi
was the individual needed for this important pur
pose. He was, at that time, president of the
council, minister for foreign affairs, and of the
King's house. He was offered, and accepted,
(provisionally,) the ecclesiastical portfolio, with
the above view.
Through confidential communications, and a
friendly correspondence with the high clergy,
Mr. Tricoupi assured himself of the consent of
the latter to the declaration that was meditated
of the independence of the church.
This point gained, the prelates, to the number
of thirty-six, that were scattered all over Greece,
— some occupying their episcopal seats, others,
persecuted by the Porte for their liberal opinions,
and having taken refuge in Greece, — received an
invitation to assemble at the residence of the
court at Napoli. This moment had been seized
upon as opportune, on account of Mr. Catachasi,

THE GREEK CHURCH. 81
the Russian minister in Greece, being absent, tra
velling for his amusement at Athens. Three or
four solemn sittings of the bishops took place,
presided by Mr. Tricoupi ; the necessary pro
tocols were signed ; and on the 23rd of July,
O. S., 1833, the independence of the church,
from the authority of the patriarch at Constan
tinople, was declared, in full assembly, by the
entire and full concurrence of the high clergy ;
and, two days later, a synod, composed of five
prelates, was installed, with great solemnity, to
exercise the patriarchal authority.
Upon his return to Napoli, the Russian mi
nister found everything accomplished. He was
furious at the circumstances, and he threatened
the synod, in the name of the Emperor. Some
intrigues took place at Constantinople and at St.
Petersburg against this measure ; but all these
intrigues were defeated by the firmness of the
Greek government. The above institution is now
in full vigour in Greece, and is cherished and
respected by all the Greek nation. It is now
composed in the following manner : — the num
ber of bishops equals the number of nomarchies
that Greece is divided into, which are ten.
Before the revolution, Greece was divided into
VOL. II. G

82 THE GREEK CHURCH.
forty-six provinces, and each province had a
bishop. Not any of these forty-six bishops are
dismissed ; but as it was requisite to diminish the
number of dioceses, the government have decided,
that as they died off they should not be renewed,
until the number amounted only to ten.
The synod, which is the ecclesiastical council,
is composed of six bishops, taken from the whole,
who reside at the capital for two years, when
others are chosen by the King.
The King is the head of the church ; and the
metropolitan is the bishop of Athens.
The sub-clergy are deacons, sub-deacons, and
priests, and the number appointed depends on
the size of the nomarchy. The whole of the
Greek church is paid by the government, from
the following funds : — Before the revolution, the
lands belonging to the monasteries were very
large, and much too extensive for the mainte
nance of the residents ; consequently, nearly
the whole of them were taken by the government,
except what was sufficient to support the in
mates. The revenues arising from these lands are
appropriated to the payment of the active clergy,
and the schools of the kingdom.
The Greek church in Russia has not separated

MR. TRICOUFI. 83
itself from the church at Constantinople. The
church in Greece alone, therefore, is indepen
dent, and a church by itself ; and in this arrange
ment the government has acted wisely ; for they
are now unshackled by the interferences of either
the Russian or Constantinopolitan bishops.
Under this arrangement there is another differ
ence between the Roman-catholic and Greek
church : the latter has two heads, the one at
Constantinople, the other at Athens, but the
religion is the same ; and the Roman church
has only one head, which resides at Rome.
It may be not irrelevant, at this part of my nar
rative, to introduce a brief sketch of the life of
that enlightened statesman who has taken so pro
minent a part in the above excellent proceeding,
and who has always been conspicuous in regulat
ing the affairs of his country.
Mr. Tricoupi is a native of Missolonghi, which
during the war became the bulwark of Greece.
His family, which was the first in that town, has
rendered the greatest services to the country, by
the influence it exercised, and by the ends to
which that influence was directed.
The father of Mr. Tricoupi was a well-instructed
man, of great integrity, and austere manners ;
g 2

84 MR. TRICOUPI.
and he was the right arm of Prince Mavrocordato
during the noble labours of the latter in that
town. He shut himself up there with Prince
Mavrocordato during the siege in 1822; and he
subsequently died there in 1825, much regretted
by all his countrymen, and by everybody else
who knew him.
Two of his younger brothers had distinguished
themselves by their bravery in the last siege,
which has immortalized that town. They ulti
mately fell, sword in hand, defending this last
rampart of their country.
Mr. Tricoupi was pursuing his literary studies
at Paris when the revolution broke out in Greece,
in the year 1 82 1 , and was cognizant of the society
called the Heteria, (although not a member of it,)
which was the proximate means of bringing it
about. He immediately returned to his country,
and entered the arena of public life at the death
of Lord Byron, when he pronounced the funeral
oration in modern Greek, and which is a master
piece of eloquence.
The following imperfect translation of a pas
sage in that speech, will give the reader an idea
of the style of its composition : —
" Born in a great empire, his descent noble,

MR. TRICOUPI. 85
on the side of both his father and mother, what
unfeigned joy did his philhellenic heart feel when
our poor city, in token of our gratitude, in
scribed his name among the number of her citi
zens ! In the agonies of death, yes, at the very
moment when eternity appeared before him, as
he lingered on the verge between mortal and im
mortal life ; when all the material world appeared
but as a speckin thevastworks of Omnipotence; in
that awful hour, but two names dwelt upon the lips
of this illustrious man, forgetting all the world be
sides : they were the names of his only and much-
beloved daughter, and of Greece. Those two names,
deeply engraven on his heart, even the moment
of death could not efface. ' My daughter !' he
said ; ' Greece !' he exclaimed : — and his spirit
passed away. What Grecian heart will not be
deeply affected, as often as it recals this moment?"
From the commencement of the revolution,
Mr. Tricoupi represented his native town in every
congress, and in all the legislative chambers.
The congress of Epidaurus also nominated him
member of the directory which it established in
1826. Mr. Tricoupi subsequently served the state

86 MR. TRICOUPI.
under Count Capo d'Istrias, as minister of the in
terior ; but the great love of power whicli pre
vailed in that chief displeased Mr. Tricoupi, and
he nobly expressed his disapprobation by resign
ing his functions, rather than countersign a de
cree which gave a predominating influence to
Count Capo d'Istrias in the elections then about
to take place.
At the congress of Argos, where Count Capo
d'Istrias, in virtue of this decree, and by means
of other intrigues of a similar nature, assumed
something very like sovereign power, Mr. Tri
coupi was the first who denounced his views and
intentions, and was the only one who had the
courage to refuse to take his seat at the congress.
Capo d'Istrias, in return, revenged himself by
proscribing him. Mr. Tricoupi, however, re
turned to his residence at Argos, at the invita
tion of the representatives of the three allied
courts, and he dwelt there as a private individual,
always liberal and constitutional in his ideas of
the mode in which his country should be
governed, and without allowing himself to enter
into any relation with the family of Capo d'Istrias.
As soon as this family was overthrown,

MR. TRICOUPI. 87
Mr. Tricoupi declined the place that the senate
assigned him in the supreme government, but
accepted that of minister for foreign affairs.
The King and the Regency in 1833, at their
arrival, called him to the head of the department
for foreign affairs, and nominated him, besides,
president of the ministry, of which Prince
Mavrocordato and Mr. Colletis formed a part.
A year afterwards, in 1834, Mr. Tricoupi was
nominated representative of his Hellenic Majesty
at the court of London, an appointment which
he desired and cherished above all others, on
account of the liberal institutions and the pubhc
spirit that pervade fhis great empire. It was
this feehng as to our institutions, which induced
Mr. Tricoupi to cultivate as much as possible
while in Greece, his relations with the English, —
whose character and hterature he was well ac
quainted with, and whose language he speaks.
It is a marked feature in the political career of
Mr. Tricoupi, that, during the strenuous oppo
sition he was induced to make to certain mea
sures in Greece, he confined himself strictly to
the employment of legal means, — always care
fully abstaining from joining in any civil war —

88 MR. TRICOUPI.
even in that which was made against Count
Capo d'Istrias.
Mr. Tricoupi married a sister of Prince Mavro
cordato, and she has resided with him in Lon
don ever since his embassy to this court. The
amiability of this lady is as much the theme of
admiration among those who have the honour
of her acquaintance, as are the invariable con
sistency and integrity of her husband.

89

CHAPTER V.
Easter Sunday — Visit to Lady Church — Sir P. Malcolm's
House — Pass of Daphne — Plain of Athens — Salamine —
General Gordon — Embassy — Vocal Performers — Easter
Tuesday — Amusements at the Temple of Theseus — Rebels
defeated — Theatre — African Pigeons — A new Revenue for
Greece — Ball at the Countess of Armansperg's — Madame
Lagrenee — Madame Bedouri — Miss Karaiskaki — Greek
Amusements — Mr. King — Society of the Green Bough —
Greeks and Turks — Greek Wines — Turkish ill-will to the
Greeks. EXTRACTS FROM JOURNAL CONTINUED.
Easter Sunday, April 9, 1835. — The Greeks,
after having attended mass in the different
churches of the town, at the early hour of six
and seven in the morning, returned home, to
dress themselves and prepare for making visits ;
which latter take place in Greece between the
hours of ten and twelve o'clock in the day.
On ordinary days they dine at twelve o'clock,
and on feast days at the hour of three. Some

90 EASTER SUNDAY.
walk out into the country with their families,
others enter cabarets, and dance the Romaika,
to the sound of the lyre and fiddle. All the
places of amusement are open on Sunday, and
are all full, — the Greeks following the custom of
Catholic countries in this respect. But this is not
the great day for festivity, Easter Tuesday being
more universally adopted as a Greek hohday.
To-day, Colonel Hay and myself, after having been
at the Rev. Mr. Hill's, where divine service was
performed, and where the usual company was
congregated, decided upon taking a ride to Patis-
sia, a village about two miles distant, to pay a
visit to Lady Church, who was residing there,
in a large house built by and belonging to Sir P.
Malcolm. We proceeded along the carriage road
leading to her ladyship's house, and arrived there
in the course of half an hour.
Being so fortunate as to find the fair hostess
at home, we entered, going through a long suite
of apartments to arrive at that in which she was.
Colonel Hay having been presented, a most
agreeable hour was passed in conversation. The
General's house is a most spacious one, and
the construction of it must have cost at least
4,000Z. The front of it looks towards the town

VISIT TO LADY CHURCH. 91
and the port of the Piraeus ; and in the court
yard, at the back of it, there is a very handsome
flight of stone steps, elevated about twenty feet,
in the most classical manner.
There are two stories to it ; on the upper of
which, in the front of the house, there are three
rooms, the middle one of which must be at least
forty feet square, and the two others about forty
by twenty-five feet. There are several bed-rooms
going round the back of the house. On the
lower floor there are three large rooms, similar
to those on the upper floor, and other offices for
the servants, all very well arranged, and per
fectly well adapted for an English family of
rank. There are about two acres of garden
ground attached to the house, the greater part
of which has been laid out in flower beds and
shrubberies, and all is arranged in the best pos
sible taste.
We congratulated her ladyship upon being
located better than any one else in Greece. In
fact, there is no other house so good. We
learned, however, that the General would shortly
quit it ; for, although the distance was only two
miles, he found it inconvenient, on account of
the Greeks not liking to walk out two miles to

92 THE PASS OF DAPHNE.
pay a visit, or to speak upon business. To any
one not having an official occupation, this must
be a most convenient residence ; for there is a
good carriage road all the way to it, and the air
is very pure and healthy.
Having taken leave of Lady Church, we pro
ceeded through the olive grove towards the Par-
nese. We then inclined to the left, until we
arrived at the pass of Daphne. We pro
ceeded through it, the mountains on each side
having a most beautiful effect, and greatly re
sembling the mountains in Scotland. The valley
is about three hundred yards across, and the
pass terminates with a most delightful view of
the bay of Salamine. By continuing to the right
along the sea-coast, you arrive at Eleusis, (now
called Lepsino,) about four miles distant ; and
twelve miles further on you reach Megara, on
the road to Corinth. The tops of the mountains
are here and there covered with the fir ; and in
the middle of the pass is the remains of a mo
nastery, of the Byzantine architecture, which
would require but little expense to put in
repair. Not much profit could be made from the pur
chase of this spot ; but any one who delights in

EQUESTRIAN TOUR. 93
romantic scenery might here indulge in it with
out its usual attendant inconveniences, — the dis
tance being only an hour's ride from the city
of Athens. Having staid some time to survey
the whole valley, we turned our horses' heads
to the city, expecting to get back in an
hour's time ; but we were disappointed, for the
colonel's horse escaped from him, and it gave
us an hour's employ to catch him again. A
most delightful carriage drive might be made
from Athens, through this pass, to the sea side ;
and it could be done by simply taking the large
stones from each side of the horse track which
now exists, — the ground itself being hard
enough. Easter Monday, April 10, 1836. — To-day
being another great holiday among the Greeks,
no public business was done, and Colonel Hay
and myself proceeded on another equestrian tour.
Having first visited the spot where the battle of
Athens was fought, and of which I was an eye
witness, we crossed the Piraeus road, and struck
into a path leading through the olive groves, and
which brought us to the sea side, at the com
mencement of the bay of Salamine, and opposite
to Xerxes' Seat. We observed two Austrian

94 ROMANTIC TOMB.
corvettes at anchor. Vessels of war, generally
speaking, prefer being here to the port of the
Piraeus, as there is plenty of room ; it is, in fact,
large enough to contain all the navies of the
world. The path at this spot gets very bad, and
rocky. On your right are high mountains, with
very little vegetation on them. I should think that
this situation is peculiarly well adapted for the
vine. The earth is very red, and similar to that
of the mountains in the environs of Macon.
The ride is most romantic. The bay was quite
calm, like a sheet of molten glass. We pro
ceeded along the coast until we came in view of
Eleusis and Megara ; and then, recollecting we
had to dine with Sir Edmund Lyons, we faced
about and returned home. On our return, we were
attracted from the road by apparently a large
block of white marble. On reaching it, we found
it was the tomb of a poor corporal of marines of
H. M. S. Canopus, who had been buried there.
Every way you cast your eyes, you ob
serve the ruins of antiquity. I never can look
at these vestiges of times past without feel
ing a wish to assist in doing something for
this country, to raise it again, if possible, to its
former magnificence; and I am satisfied that

EARL GORDON. 95
nothing would more contribute to this result
than any circumstances which would render a
voyage to Greece as much "the fashion "as a
journey is now to Italy. Travelling gentlemen,
and rich individuals who may wish to pass away
the cold winter months of the North beneath a
more genial sky, will find even now a very agree
able residence in this classical soil, during that
period ; and they will be, more or less, the means
of bringing Greece into a state of immediate
civilization. We returned home to our hotel, and, having
dressed, repaired to the house of the British
minister, and were received by him and his
amiable and united family with their wonted
cordiality. We found there the eldest Prince Cantacuzene,
the unfortunate widower of the Countess Luise
Armansperg. He is now attached to the staff of
General Gordon, and has preceded him here from
Argos, where the General's head quarters now are.
General Gordon is a gentleman of large estates
at Caithness, in Scotland. He came to Greece
nearly at the commencement of the revolution,
and has devoted himself ever since to furthering
and assisting the Greek struggle for independence.

96 SIR EDMUND LYONS.
His services to the Greek government are entirely
gratis ; his large fortune allowing him to dispense
with a salary from them as a general officer.
General Gordon has been in several engage
ments in the Morea, and, at the time of the arrival
of General Church in Greece, in 1827, he was
appointed by him Colonel of the artillery corps,
and acquitted himself with great talent. Since
that period, he has been raised to the rank of a
General, and the command of the troops in the
Morea has been confided to his hands.
General Gordon, in the year 1832, published a
work upon the Greek revolution, in two volumes.
The work is one of great interest, shewing much
research, and is the best book that any one can
read, to gain an insight into the causes of the re
volution, and the proceedings of the Greeks
during the course of that revolution.
To return, however, to our excellent host ; we
were entertained in the evening by hearing some
Italian pieces performed by Miss Lyons, who
plays admirably.
I cannot but observe here, that if Sir Edmund
Lyons continues to dispense his hospitality in the
same unbounded manner to all his English visitors
when the projected communications are fullyopen,

GREEK SERENADERS. 97
between Marseilles and Greece, he will need to have
his official income increased. In fact, I cannot
but think that it ought to be in any case placed
on a par with that of the Russian minister, who,
I believe, has 4000Z. a year, while Sir Edmund
Lyons has only 2000?. and some hundreds.
This great disparity must at present enable the
Russian minister to exercise a species of in
fluence, which is by no means unimportant in a
semi-civilized state — that arising out of a splen
didly furnished dinner-table.
Returning home, we fell in with a party of four
Greeks, who were singing some Italian airs in the
most exquisite style : one had a fine tenor voice,
and all the others were bass. They stopped un
der the windows of different houses, and serenaded
the inhabitants ; and I was so much delighted
with them, that, although it was late, I followed
them about the town for a whole hour, to hear
them sing. Whether they were amateurs or
otherwise I know not ; I certainly did not see
them receive any money ; and subsequently, in
my evening rambles, I often encountered them.
These Greeks are an extraordinary race.
Scarcely are they emerged from that barbarism
to which the despotism of the Turks had con-
VOL. II. H

98 THE ROMAICK DANCE.
signed them, than they are cultivating the arts of
peace, and striking root, as it were, with the
greatest facility, into the circle of the civihzation
of Western Europe.
April 11, 1836. — This morning I strolled with
Colonel Hay to the temple of Theseus. We had
been informed that the Albanians, with their wives,
would dance the Romaick, which they are wont to
do annually at this spot. On this day,- Easter Tues
day, at three o'clock, they assembled in groups ;
the sole music was a drum, and a small kind of
flageolet, which at a distance sounded like a
Scotch bagpipe. The Romaick was very ani
mated, and various kinds of it were danced. The
time was slow and quick, alternately. The quick
part required great exertion ; they jump off
the ground to the height of a foot and a half,
and in the leap they turn themselves round in the
air, looking towards their companions on the left.
The moment they touch the ground with their
feet, they sink upon their knees, and from that
position they make another spring, turning them
selves a contrary way. These violent leaps did
not last long, and they were immediately suc
ceeded by a more slow step.
Nothing can be more orderly than a Greek

GREEK WOMEN. 99
mob. There were about two thousand persons
here ; and although they were boisterous in their
mirth, there was nothing mischievous in it. They
were like a parcel of children, dancing with all
the animation imaginable, to the sound of the
drum and the pipe. While they were thus amus
ing themselves, Sir E. Lyons and his family, with
ths Countess Caroline, arrived at this spot. The
Greeks, ever fond of novelty, instantly left the
dance, and assembled round the fair equestrians ;
but after a few minutes' admiration, they returned
again to the dance. I had on this occasion a
very good opportunity of observing the Albanian
women. They are generally tall ; their counte
nances are very good, their features being regular ;
all that they require is the bringing up and edu
cation that the women in Western Europe are
in the habit of receiving : a defect which peace
will, I hope, rectify.
Having remained here till five o'clock, I re
turned to my hotel, to dine ; and in the evening
I visited my friend, Bell, to play a rubber with
him. He has taken apartments at Doctor
Hipitis' house, who is a wealthy disciple of Escu
lapius, and is married to the daughter of a Rus
sian Odessa merchant. This house is rather oddly
h 2

100 AMATEUR DECAPITATION.
constructed, being about a hundred yards long,
and fourteen or fifteen feet wide ; so that you pass
from one end to the other, through all the dif
ferent rooms in a line. It has a large garden at
tached to it, and it is one of the most agreeable
residences in all Athens.
I was deprived of having the pleasure of any
more rides with Colonel Hay, he having em
barked at the Piraeus for Epidaurus. I had much
cause to regret that our acquaintance was so
short, for I had passed my time most agreeably
in his society. He had intended to proceed to
Jerusalem, but that visit he deferred to a later
period, and was now going to Corfu.
April 15. — The fears of the Athenians are
much relieved by receiving news that Grivas and
Tzavellas have gained a victory over the rebels.
It appears that the rebels had got Tzavellas into a
monastery, and had kept him there forty-eight
hours. Grivas having received news of it, pro
ceeded to the spot, and made great havoc among
the rebels. Grivas himself fights like any com
mon Palikari, and is said to have a particular
skill, and consequent satisfaction, in cutting off
the enemies' heads.
To-day (Sunday) is a great day with the

GREEK THEATRE. 101
Greeks ; all their common amusements are prac
tised on that day, and the theatre is then open.
It is only open one other day in the week, namely,
Thursdays ; but on the latter day few persons go
to it. As I was here in the character of an ob
server of manners and habits, I to-day broke
through our English custom, and went to see the
performances. Young Miaulis, grandson of the old admiral,
called upon me at the close of my dinner, and
we agreed to go to the theatre together. In the
square before the theatre we found assembled an
immense concourse of persons, to hear the band,
which plays there on this day. There were at least
three thousand people, who were walking about,
enjoying the fine German music, the luxury of
which was increased by a cool agreeable April
evening in Greece. The carriages of the foreign
ministers were there, and the chancellors also,
drawn round the circle.
The music having ceased, the crowds left
the square, and walked along the road to Pa-
tissia, before the theatre opened, which it did at
eight o'clock, it now being only half past seven.
Miaulis and myself, however, entered the Cafe"
d'ltalie, opposite the Theatre, and regaled our-

102 GREEK THEATRE.
selves with an ice. Attached to the Cafe there is
a small garden planted with trees, under which
tables are placed ; and the Athenians, placing their
hat upon one chair, their legs upon another, and
their stick upon a third, enjoy the delicious
temperature of a climate which appears to me to
be the best under the sun.
On entering the theatre, we paid for our box
tickets two drachmas each, (Is. 5d.) The admis
sion to the pit is one drachma, which enables all
classes in Greece to take advantage of this
amusement. On entering, I observed that there was no
covering to the house, and, on asking the pro
prietor and manager (a Cephaloneote) the reason,
he told me, that, during the week, there had been
a heavy squall of wind for half an hour, and that
the awning (which was canvass) had been blown
half-way to Patissia, and that he could not afford
to put on another until he had received some
money ; consequently, the audience had the plea
sure of beholding the moon, the stars, and the
firmament, whenever they were tired of observing
the actors and actresses.
The performance this evening was rope
dancing, which was very well executed, with

PIGEON-SHOOTING IN GREECE. 103
tumbhng of all kinds, after the manner of our
Astley's ; with this difference, however, that
the feats of agility were executed by a female,
the daughter of the Entrepreneur.
The interior of the theatre is prettily fitted up.
It contains about sixty boxes, and the king's box
in the centre ; and the pit is large enough to con
tain one thousand people. It gave me much
gratification to observe that the whole were very
well filled.
The manager informed me that next Sunday
he " should have the honour of representing a
tragedy ; several of the inhabitants, amateurs of
the histrionic art, having offered their services to .
perform." Upon my return home, I found a note from
my worthy friend Bell, inviting me to dine with
him on the following day, at his country seat. He
told me that the annual immigration of pigeons
had commenced in the plain, from the coast
of Africa, and that the cornfields were filled
with them ; recommending me at the same time
to make use of a double-barrelled gun of his that
was at his town residence.
April 16. — This morning, after having taken
my Greek lesson, (which occupied nearly two

104 GAME LAWS IN GREECE.
hours) I sallied forth, gun in hand, and with
out a dog, — for which there is no use in this
kind of shooting ; for you are obhged to proceed
quietly through the corn, and the birds get up in
all directions.
I had excellent sport, notwithstanding I
counted above a dozen other sportsmen ; and I
arrived at Bell's house with an appetite suited
to the abundant repast which he had pro
vided. There are four very good seasons of the year
for shooting in Greece : in the month of April
the pigeons remain about three weeks ; the quails
then follow, and remain a month ; then, in Sep
tember and October, come the partridges ; and in
the months of November and December the wood
cock and snipe, which arrive at that period in
myriads. There are certain game laws in force,
but the fees are very inexpensive. You take out
a certificate for three months, for a drachma and
half, (about one shilling ;) or for a year you pay
three and a half drachmas, (two shillings and six
pence.) The gens d'armerie are very severe if
they find you shooting without a licence ; your
gun is taken from you, and not restored till you

SPORTING. 105
have paid the fine, which is about 100 drachmas
— nearly 4/. sterling.
The cheapness of the licence, one would almost
think, would occasion so many sportsmen that
the game would sensibly diminish, until it almost
disappeared : but such is not the case. In the
interior of the country there are but few inhabi
tants, and the game enjoys an undisturbed repose.
Partridges and hares are found all over Greece,
and pheasants are found in great numbers in the
neighbourhood of Missolonghi, and at Zeitouni ;
and in Negropont and the frontiers the wild boar
and deer are numerous. The other game men
tioned is only transient, and they come in such
flocks that they never appear to diminish. The
inhabitants pickle the pigeons and the quails,
which are eaten at breakfast.
Having partaken of my excellent friend's hos
pitality, and the evening drawing in, I bent my
steps homeward, at which I arrived at the hour
of nine. I was attracted to the coffee-room by a
new arrival, who was talking dreadfully loud, and
speaking the patois of the South of France. I
inquired of Louis, the hotel-keeper, who he was,
and learned that he was a Frenchman who had

]06 MONOPOLY OF LEECHES.
come to Athens to bid for the exclusive right of
seeking leeches in the brooks of Greece, and
that he had that morning made the purchase.
Everybody in the room were in a roar of
laughter at the oddity of the man, and, wish
ing to enjoy the fun, I entered. The moment
I entered, he addressed me, and immediately
began telling me all his affairs ; every now and
then taking up his knife (for he was waiting
for his supper) and throwing it down on the
table again, whenever he wished to give emphasis
to what he said. He informed me that he had
that morning purchased the monopoly of leeches,
in the province of Attica, for the sum of 12,500
drachmas, and that he had it for five years, and
that he expected he should make a very good
thing of it.
Previous to this arrangement, a great many
leech merchants used to come from Marseilles.
They would arrive with twenty pounds in their
pocket, and in three months would, by their own
labour and industry, collect a sufficient quantity to
yield them a profit of 4000 franks (160Z.) at
Marseilles. The government, hearing of the
great sums of money made by this traffic, claimed
to themselves the natural advantages arising

THE YOUNG QUEEN. 107
from their brooks and lakes, which swarm with
leeches ; and I have no doubt that, from the ten
nomarchies, the government may obtain the sum
of 6000Z. a year, for the first five years.

It was about this time that the King of Greece
decided upon going to Bavaria, to see his family,
which he had quitted in the year 1832 ; and his
Britannic Majesty had been pleased to place at
the disposal of the young monarch the English
steam-boat, the Medea.
There was also another reason that actuated his
Majesty to proceed to Europe: — it was, to comply
with the urgent desire of his subjects, that he
should marry, with a view to one of his descend
ants succeeding to the throne.
Since the above period, his Majesty married at
Oldenburgh, in November, 1836, Maria Frederica
Amelia, daughter of the Grand Duke of Holstein
Oldenbourg, by his first wife. The present
Queen of Greece was born on the 21st of De
cember, 1818.
I have since heard from Greece that her Ma
jesty is very popular ; her youth, beauty, and
the affability she evinces to her subjects, have

108 FASHION IN GREECE.
already obtained for her their unlimited affection.
She is of the protestant faith.
Previously to the King's departure, the Coun
tess of Armansperg issued cards for a soiree.
His Majesty, on whose account the ball was
given, arrived early, and promenaded the rooms
for half an hour, when a waltz was executed, and
the King handed out the Countess Carohne.
To-night, for the first time since her arrival at
Athens, I saw Madame Lagrenee, the wife of the
new French minister. She is handsome, accom
plished, and very young ; and on the present oc
casion she excited much admiration. She is a
Polish lady, whom Monsieur Lagrenee, when
formerly attached to the embassy at Russia, mar
ried in that country, notwithstanding the influ
ence of the imperial court, who wished to prevent
the marriage.
I have been at several balls where the King
was present, and I never saw him more agree
able and popular. A great deal of restraint
was thrown off, and the people seemed deter
mined to be pleased. The Greek ladies at this
ball seemed much improved in their appearance.
The luxurious habits which are gradually intro
ducing themselves into Greece, cause them to pay
more attention to their persons. Miss Karais-

GREEK COSTUME. 109
kaki, the daughter of the famous general I have
before mentioned, looked very charming ; she was
perfectly well dressed, waltzed admirably, and
would have created a sensation in a first-rate
London saloon. As usual, the whole was con
cluded by a cotillon, the young monarch choos
ing Miss Lyons for his partner, who is one of the
most pleasing of our fair countrywomen, either
in or out of Greece.
The following Sunday I went to the theatre,
hearing that the Siege of Constantinople was
to be performed ; but, before entering, I loi
tered on the green square, to observe several
amusements that had been introduced, similar to
those that are seen in the Champs Elysees.
Roses are now in bloom, and the Athenian
ladies who were walking about had placed them
in their hair, which was gracefully entwined
round their red caps, giving a most pleasing effect
to their appearance. Some of them had a green
handkerchief tied round the bottom of their caps,
the upper part of the cap being seen, and the
roses placed between the handkerchief and the
cap. On entering the theatre, I observed that the
audience had much improved, for there were pre-

110 BREED OF HORSES.
sent the French and Russian ministers, with their
families, and the boxes were very well filled with
the notables of Athens. The pit was crowded, it
being the best place both to hear and see.
The performance was very well executed ; and
in the representation of the siege there was
plenty of fighting, and other " circumstance of
glorious war," for which the Greeks have a de
cided taste. There was a fine view of Constan
tinople, and the whole passed off with great
e*clat. At the end of the tragedy, a ballet was
got up, upon a small scale, in which the ma
nager's daughter (the tumbling lady of the pre
ceding Sunday) was the principal performer.
To-day I walked to look at the King's stud,
which were tethered in a field of rye grass, about
half a mile distant from the town. Among the
number there were two very fine Arabs, recently
imported from Egypt, at the express desire of
his Majesty. The sum given for them was about
five thousand franks each. They were beautiful
animals, and remarkably docile. In twenty years,
I imagine that the race of horses in Greece will
be very fine. The German mare and Arab horse,
which have both been introduced, cannot fail to
produce a very superior breed.

SKITTLE-GROUND. Ill
In my rambles, a few days afterwards, through
the corn-fields in the environs of Athens, I met
my friend Doctor Rezer, and a German officer,
who were proceeding to the German skittle-
ground. I accompanied them thither. It was
about a mile distant from the town, and very
agreeably situated in a cluster of fig-trees. They
had formed a society, and the verdure of the
situation had given the name to the club. It
was called the " Society of the Green Bough."
This game, with the Germans, is a very scientific
one, and manly at the same time, requiring great
exertion and skill. The skittles are placed at
least fifty yards distant, and leading to them is a
concave bed of planks, about a yard and a half
wide, and upon which the immense wooden ball
rolls. The bowler, however, does not roll the
ball down the middle of the groove, but sends it
in such a manner that it ascends first on one
side, then descends, and ascends the other : thus
taking the skittles " in flank" instead of in front.
The worthy Doctor proposed that I should be
a member of -this club, — to which all having
assented, I was duly inducted, paying a trifling
sum as entrance money, and agreeing to pay a
still more trifling one per month. The stakes

112 GREEK WINE-MAKING.
were, bottles of German and French beer, of
which there is a great quantity imported from
Trieste and France. I stopped till dark, when I
returned home with some of the members of the
" Green Bough."
Finding that I have made great progress in the
Greek language, merely by my peripatetic style
of learning it, and wishing to be well grounded
in its grammatical construction, I determined on
having a second master. For this purpose I
have fixed on Demotropolos, and it is agreed
that he shall instruct me in the morning for two
hours, from six till eight o'clock, and Freorites
from twelve till two o'clock. The charge of each
is one drachma an hour.
The father of Demotropolos was, when living,
a merchant, and resided at Tripolizza, (the
capital of the Morea,) he told me that his family
had some stremata of vine land, which supported
the family, consisting of two sisters and an elder
brother. In one of our conversations this youth
told me, that the people of Tripolizza pre
served their wine without either resin or spirits.
They boil it for about twelve hours, then put
it into jars, and preserve it for two years, at
which time it is similar to champagne. Being

WINE-MAKING. 113
a little sceptical upon this point, I spoke with
several men scientific in wines, and they told me
that it was true ; they added, what I was not
aware of, that Doctor Ufeland, of Prussia, in
his medical report on the wines of Greece, has
declared, that there are wines in that country the
excellent properties of which surpass any other
of the wines that are known in Europe.
There can be little doubt that this is a branch
of manufacture and commerce which is well worth
the attention of the speculator, whether native or
foreign. At the end of three years the vine
bears, and yields ten per cent. ; in four years it
yields twenty-five per cent., even in the present
imperfect mode of culture ; and if attention be
paid to the wine, by clever and experienced
manufacturers, an immense profit may be derived
from it in the markets of Europe.
To return, however, to my little tutor; he
called my attention to the gazette, the Sauveur,
which was giving a flaming account of the rebels
being most signally defeated on the frontier. He
also pointed my attention to another paragraph,
reflecting upon the Turkish authorities on the
frontier ; — and as this latter is a point of great
VOL. II. I

114 TURKISH ENMITY
interest in connexion with Greece, I shall here
copy the passage.
" According to news from Eastern and Western
Greece, it appears positive that the Turkish au
thorities of the frontiers are far from conduct
ing themselves towards Greece in that neigh
bourly manner so necessary for the prosperity of
two contiguous countries. We are assured that
the rebels and the robbers find, whenever they
wish, not only an asylum and protection upon
the Turkish territory, but even provisions and
fire-arms in abundance.
" Some Albanian bands, quitting the Turkish
service, with the pretext that they cannot adapt
themselves to the customs of regular troops,
have just joined the rebels of our country, after
having traversed the towns and villages of Al
bania, without receiving the least opposition from
the Turkish authorities.
# # # # #
" Our patience has been much abused. It
is necessary that the Sultan should be made to
understand, that it is to his interest to act to
wards us with frankness, and with a reciprocal
good feeling."

TO GREECE. 1 15
The fact is, that the frontier, and the country
within ten miles of it, will always be in a like
disordered state, until either England or France
takes up the subject in a manner to compel the
Turkish authorities to a fair and proper line of
conduct on this point.

VOL. II.

i 2

116

CHAPTER VI.
General Church and the Troubles on the Frontier — Lady
Church — Mount Anchesmos— Greece and Egypt — Blasts
of the Rock — The Academy — Visit to Mr. Bell — Descrip
tion of his Estate and Garden — Greek Walls — Visit to the
Botanical Garden — Greek Constitution — Monks at Mount
Athos — Visit to a Greek Peasant, near the Acropolis —
Visit to the Stadium — Athenian Pere la Chaise.
The troubles in continental Greece wearing a
serious aspect, his Majesty, on account of General
Church's great popularity among the troops, with
great discernment, nominated him Inspector-
General of the army of Eastern and Western
Greece, and at the same time bestowed upon him
the Grand Cross of the Royal Military Order of the
Saviour. This gallant officer has attained higher
rank ih the service of the King of Greece than
any other foreigner, — he being one of the coun
sellors of state, of which there are only twenty.

GENERAL CHURCH. 117
General Church first distinguished himself at the
battle of Maida. Afterwards, in the Ionian
Islands, he organized a Greek corps, and led
them several times into action. Colocotroni,
who during the war had greater power than any
native chieftain, served under General Church in
Zante ; and several other distinguished native
chiefs did the same. It is owing to this circum
stance that the Greeks have such confidence in
our gallant countryman. His great characteristic
is an extreme patience, added to extraordinary
prudence and caution, — essential qualities in a
General in this country. At the same time he
possesses all the frankness and decision of a
soldier, with the bearing of a polished gentleman.
His Lady is the sister of Sir Wilmot Horton,
the late Governor of Ceylon. She arrived in
Greece about a year ago, and was hailed by the
resident English as a most valuable addition to
Greek society.
General Church, on receiving the above ap
pointment, proceeded with a body of eight hun
dred troops along the frontier, and by his pre
sence tended much to allay the ferment that was
existing. Before his departure, I added myself
to the number of the crowd who visited him, to

118 GREECE AND EGYPT.
congratulate him on the occasion of his new
appointment. A few days after the General's departure, one
morning before the rising of the sun (which in
Greece is the most delightful part of the day,) I
was taking my accustomed walk towards the foot
of Mount Anchesmos, when I met my friend
Leonidas, an officer of the Revolution, who
had now turned civilian. The meeting at so
early a period of the morning occasioned a mu
tual explanation; after which it was proposed
that our stroll should be taken together, — the
summit of Anchesmos being our point of des
tination. Having arrived there, we took our seat
on a large block of granite, and the conversation
turned upon the buildings which were then being
constructed from the materials around us ; and
this led to a somewhat lengthened discussion
relative to Egypt, as opposed to and contrasted
with Greece, and the policy of the European
states with reference to both. And as this con
versation dwelt on my memory, and its results
appear to be of much importance to Greece, I
shall endeavour here to call it to mind.
" For some time past," observed Leonidas,
"Greece and Egypt, by their geographical position,

&&

GREECE AND EGYPT. 119
and by the nature of the extraordinary events
which have passed in them, have acquired a cer
tain importance in the eyes of the great nations
of Western Europe. After the work of philan
thropy which has been reahzed in favour of
Greece, the complicated work of diplomacy has
arrived. And at this crisis, Russia has not de
layed to shew herself quite inimical to the views
of France and England. Thus we are held in a
state of abeyance, between one of those interests
and the other ; to the great detriment of our social
progress, and without the possibility of knowing
what will be the ultimate result.
" Egypt, meantime, has not been the theatre of
so baneful a struggle of contending influence.
England and France have seen, in the personal
quahties of the Viceroy, Mehemit Ali, a means of
raising up a most powerful state, capable of re
sisting, in Asia, the gradual encroachments of
Russia ; which the enfeebled empire of the Sultan
cannot do. But for some time the politics of France
andEngland,with regard to Mehemet Ali, seem to
have changed. They are cool and indifferent to
him, and the Sultan has become again the object
of the attention and consideration of England
in particular. Now this abandonment of Egypt"

120 PLATO AND THE ACADEMY.
(continued Leonidas) " will be profitable to the
Greeks. France and England will no doubt find
it necessary to bestow upon us the patronage and
protection they have withdrawn from Egypt. It
is of the last importance that Greece should ac
quire physical and political strength. This is
scarcely less the interest of England and France
than it is of Greece herself. Moreover, the
Greek people are desirous of it, and they will
make any sacrifice to obtain it."
He spoke much more to the same effect, with
which I entirely coincided; but our conversation
being from time to time interrupted by the la
bourers blasting the rock to disengage the ma
terials for the new palace, and as fragments of the
stone often came near to us, we thought it ex
pedient to move our quarters. Accordingly we
proceeded to a most beautiful and interesting spot
for a discussion like that we had been engaged in,
— namely, the site of the ancient Academy, about
half a mile off. It is a small eminence, about
thirty feet high, graduaUy sloping off on each
side. Upon it are now the remains of a church.
Here it was that Plato opened his academy, when
he returned from his travels in Egypt and Italy.
And nothing could be more admirably chosen

SPLENDID SCENERY. 121
than this spot ; the natural beauty of the scene
being only surpassed by the associations which
arose out of the artificial splendors connected
with it. On the one hand lies the large mountain
range of Hymettus ; on the other, Pentelicus and
Parnese. The Pass of Daphne closes the view.
Towards the sea in front, the Piraeus meets your
eye ; to the west, and looking towards the city,
the noble Acropolis hfts up its (now ruined)
splendor. The glories of this scene in ancient
times must have had a most elevating effect on
the minds of the pupils that flocked to the
academy of the " divine " philosopher.
It was by this time 7 o'clock, and the clouds
having overcast the sky, I congratulated myself
and my companion on the circumstance ; but,
like a true Greek, he declared that his constitu
tion was so accustomed to the Athenian sun
shine, that the want of it made him quite melan
choly. It being still early, our walk was extended
further into the olive grove, where we found nu
merous horses tethered in fields of rye grass, to
eat the herbage ; it being usual, at this time of the
year, to allow them to graze it off for a fort
night. Leonidas informed me that this grass

122 MR. bell's seat.
had, on the previous year, produced the Athenians
one hundred per cent, profit ; consequently this
year much had been planted, and it still yields a
large profit. About the plain we observed large
quantities of the flocus, a plant which, when
broken, yields a poisonous juice resembling milk,
and the odour of which is so offensive that the
Turks, during their supremacy, used to send very
large parties of the Greeks to cut it down, before
it came into flower. It used to overrun the land ;
but it is now disappearing fast, owing to the soil
being rapidly brought into a state of cultivation.
Our walk had now brought us near our friend
Mr. Bell's country seat, and we paid him a visit.
This gentleman is a British officer, who, " tired
of war's alarms," has taken to tilling his land,
the greater part of which adjoins Mount Plato.
His house is spacious, and built with all the
comforts of an English dwelling. The second
story is surrounded by a balcony, from which,
even in the hottest weather, one finds a breeze.
Above this he has constructed a staircase as
cending to the roof, the view from which is mag
nificent. Mr. Bell has laid out a great deal of
money upon this spot. Around the house he

ENGLISH GARDEN. 123
has cultivated a garden of about an acre and a
half, which is considered the best in Attica.
Leading from the gate to his house (a distance of
one hundred yards) he has made two thick plan
tations of rose trees, with beds of anemonies,
and various other kinds of flowers, which he
brought from Malta. These were, at the present
moment, nearly all in full bloom, and this, in
addition to the odoriferous fragrance of clusters
of orange and lemon trees, rendered the spot a
most delightful and enchanting one. Though it
was early in April, the peas (of the English
kind) were in the pod; and the potatoes were
in a flourishing state. Of these latter he always
(he said) had two crops in the year. His garden
is watered by the Cephissus, — a stream being
laid on artificially from that river. There ap
peared to me to be only one thing wanting to
complete this pleasant residence, and that was,
a bath; for, in a hot climate, nothing can ex
ceed the luxury of a cold bath, in a garden,
in the morning, before sunrise. I recollect at
this moment the enjoyment of one which I used
frequently to take when at Maranhan (Brazils,)
in the garden of the governor at arms. The
bath was about two and a half feet in depth,

124 A GREEK WALK.
paved at the bottom, and I was in the habit of
lying in it for three quarters of an hour toge
ther, during which time figs freshly gathered
were brought to me to eat. This luxury can
only be appreciated by those who have enjoyed
it in a tropical climate.
In the walk round the garden, Mr. Bell called my
attention to the new wall he had built, after the style
of the country, and spoke of the very small cost
of it. It was of clay, about six feet high and a foot
and a half thick ; and he described the way of
constructing it, as follows :— boards are placed
about a foot from each other, and a yard in
length, and closed up at the two ends ; the soil
is then dug out of the ditch, mixed up with a
little water to make it of the consistence of soft
clay, and then placed between the boards, where
it is well trodden down with the feet for half an
hour. The boards are then taken away, and re
moved a step forward ; thus progressing until
the wall is finished. In a few days, from the
heat of the sun, it becomes hard and dry, and
very strong. The top is then covered with
prickly bushes, which make it a perfect defence
against any cattle whatsoever. Bell told us that
the whole cost him about thirty leptas a foot, or

COUNTRY LIFE IN GREECE. 125
threepence English ! In the garden, vines were
trained in various ways, making bowers and
alcoves ; so that in the heat of a mid-day solstice
one might walk well sheltered and protected,
with clusters of grapes hanging down from the
roof. " It is here," said our host, " that I often re
pose, upon this cane-bottomed sofa, or take my
book; and when I am tired of reading, I walk up
and down under this vine shade, enjoying the
coolness of the breeze. Besides," said he, " my
men are always at work, and the eye of the
master is needful." He had three Maltese then
at work; and the heat of the sun (which, to us,
was insupportable,) appeared to be only agreeable
to them. Under the shade of the vines, he had
a few pots of carnations and geraniums, which
he had brought out of the sun to preserve their
bloom. This vinegrove was near his poultry-
yard, where he had ducks, fowls, and a large
flock of pigeons ; which latter bird appeared, he
said, to be indigenous to the Athenian soil, so
fast did they multiply.
Bell, with the frank hospitality of a British
sailor, pressed us to stop and breakfast with
him, and we wanted but little entreaty ; — so in

126 BOTANIC GARDEN.
half an hour, under the shade of the vinegrove,
the table was laid for our repast. Tea, coffee,
and a pigeon pie, with toast, and butter made
from sheep's milk, which is very delicate, were
placed before us; and, to crown the whole, some
Attic honey from the hives of one of his tenants.
Outside of the garden, and at a little distance
from it, Mr. BeU had planted, with his own
hand, about thirty stremata of vineyard. This
was the fourth year of its growth, and he ex
pected to get from it at least twenty-five per cent.
annually. He has about one hundred and fifty
more stremata in a state of cultivation, producing
corn, yielding ten for one. This land would
produce the same every year if manured; but
without that it is allowed to lie fallow every
alternate year.
Before quitting our worthy host, it was agreed
that he should come into town the next day, and
accompany us to the botanic gardens. These gar
dens are situated on the south-western side of the
Acropolis, in the olive grove. This spot was for
merly the residence of the Pacha and his harem.
The only existing remains of the building are
one or two walls. A stream of water runs
through the gardens, both summer and winter,

VENTHULOS. 127
and adds much to the beauty and value of the
spot. A German has been appointed by the
government to superintend the gardens ; and
from the good order and regularity in which
everything has been arranged, it should seem
that the executive have made a very judicious
choice. At aU events this is one of those ap
pointments wliich must necessarily be held by a
foreigner, — the Greeks having, at present, not
the least idea of forming such an undertaking.
Plantations of the cypress and other trees, for
the adorning of the town, are being fostered here
in great abundance.
Having loitered here the whole day, we re
turned to the town to dine, and on our arrival
we met Venthulos, who is one of the many intel
ligent and weU-informed Greeks in whose society
I gain much knowledge of what I seek in this
interesting country.
Venthulos has been in England, and is sur
passed in talent and information by few of his
countrymen. Whatever subject may be treated
upon, Venthulos can give a judicious opinion
on it, and, what is more, not a superficial one ;
for he enters well into the grounds of the

128 GREEK MONKS.
matter, and states his views clearly and coolly.
It is said among his countrymen that he is too
satirical; but this does not detract from the
amusement derived from his conversation.
Venthulos told us that the King of Bavaria
had requested Otho to give the Greeks, as soon
as possible, a constitution. This had been before
reported, but being confirmed by Venthulos, suc
cess was drank to it ; which much increased the
hilarity of the hvely Greek, and he told us several
anecdotes. Among others he stated, that, during
the first year of the revolution, the Greeks sent
him to Mount Athos to engage the monks of
that monastery to take part in the revolution ;
the inmates of the monastery being numerous,
and very rich. They received him weU, and
after having listened attentively to what he had
to say, they desired him to open the Bible by
chance, and if in the leaf that was opened any
thing could be found that might be interpreted
in favour of the revolution, they would consent
to fall in with his views. Venthulos opened the
Bible, and being naturally ingenious, took care
to turn some part of the contents of the leaf in
favour of the revolution ; and the consequence

THE GREEK REVOLUTION. 129
was, that the monks promised to take his propo
sition into consideration, and give him their de
cision the next morning ; which having arrived,
they determined in favour of his suggestions,
and ultimately took part in the revolution. The
Turks, however, were too strong for them, and
after a little time they took possession of the
monastery, and the inmates fled to Spezzia, and
other islands of Greece, with their treasures.
But the sultan, finding the great influence they ex
ercised over the minds of the people in the neigh -
bourhood of Mount Athos, allowed them to
return and resume possession of their property,
provided they would not again take part in poli
tical affairs.
Venthulos gave it as his opinion that the re
volution in Greece had begun too soon ; that
schools were being established everywhere to
prepare the mind of the young Greeks for that
event ; but that they had not been in action long
enough : " and," continued he, "it may be at
tributed to this that no very great man has
arisen out of the circumstances of the time — as
has generally been the case in other revolutions."
Venthulos, having stayed with us till ten o'clock,
retired ; not (as he said) being permitted to stay
VOL. II. K

130 AN OLD SOLDIER.
out late, and moreover having a very pretty wife
at home.
This morning, (April 17th,) wishing to have
a peripatetic lesson, I proceeded with my httle
tutor, Freoretes, to the base of the Acropolis.
There are two or three rocks adjacent to it
which are covered with verdure, and add much
beauty to the spot. From them we passed on
to the road which winds round the rock.
Soldiers were busy watering the trees which
are planted on the south-eastern side of the
Acropolis, on the side of the new carriage-road
which has been formed, leading to the Piraeus.
We entered a cottage near the summit of the
hill, and, being hungry, we asked for some bread,
which was immediately given to us ; for the
Greeks, even the poorest, are exceedingly hospi
table. The inmates of this cabin were a man
and his wife. The former had been an old
soldier, under Karaiskaki, and now supported
himself by husbandry. I told him that I was
present when his chief was killed. This excited
a deep interest in the poor man, and he entered
into a long detail of the wars ; saying, that he
recollected very well the arrival of " Cochranos."
While talking, he was engaged in fitting the

ENGLISHMEN IN GREECE. 131
iron part of a plough into the wood ; for he had
broken it in ploughing some stony land for an
Englishman, (Mr. Bracebridge,) who lived at
Carar. The Athenian plough is not that ponder
ous machine which we use in England ; it is about
one fourth the weight and size ; nor is it requi
site that it should be stronger, as the Greeks
never turn up the land more than three or four
inches from the surface ; notwithstanding which
the returns are as great as in the most fruitful
countries of the world. He told me that he liked
to work for Englishmen, and he wished that a
few more would come to Greece.
I have heard this from more than one Greek,
relative to English residents. One day, in going
to Marousi, I joined company with a man and
his ass, both of whom were laden with a great
many deal boards, for the construction of a house.
In the course of our conversation, I ascertained
that he was taking them to Marousi, and that he
was building a house for an Englishman, of whom
he spoke as being an excellent master. It is
certainly an undoubted fact that the Englishman
personally is considered with great respect in
Greece, — whether on account of the power and
reputation of our country, the solidity of our
k 2

132 LAMENTATION OF XERXES.
character, or our wealth, I know not ; but so it is.
Having paid the poor cottager for his bread,
(which although brown was very sweet,) we
quitted our newly made acquaintance, not with
out his requesting that our visit might be re
peated. Freoretes having volunteered to shew me in the
afternoon a delightful walk to the left of the
Stadium, we met, and proceeded thither at the
appointed hour of five o'clock. The scenery
from this spot is most dehghtful on all sides ;
and the beauty of the day (which is only one
of the many that succeed each other for weeks
together in Greece,) brightened the whole pic
ture. We placed ourselves on a little mount,
and while surveying the scene from its pinnacle,
and enjoying the glorious view of the setting sun
as it sank behind the mountain which concealed
the Morea from our view, our attention was
attracted by a cavalcade, which indicated (by
the foreigners present) that its point was the
English cemetery ; in fact, it was a funeral, pro
ceeding towards that pretty spot. The incident
reminded us of the lamentation of Xerxes, when
standing on a neighbouring spot, (the summit of
the hill opposite Salamine,) that the whole of his

ENGLISH BURIAL GROUND. 133
fine army, which nothing mortal could with
stand, should in another century have ceased to
exist. I may here mention that the spot where the
English burial ground is, contains about an acre,
and has been walled round by Mr. Bracebridge,
who had previously purchased the ground, and
has erected a porter's lodge, in which resides
George Wilson, whom I have before mentioned.
Wilson's occupation is to draw up water for
two or three hours in the morning, from a well
that is sunk in the enclosure, and to water the
newly planted trees, which have been arranged
here with a view to the picturesque, after the
manner of Pere la Chaise at Paris.
There is a very magnificent tomb here, erected
to the memory of the Countess Sa Porta, the
lady of the king's chamberlain ; and also one to
the memory of a Mr. Higgins, formerly of Bryan-
stone-square.

134

CHAPTER VII.
HISTORICAL SKETCH OF GREECE.
As I am not without a hope that my humble
volumes may hereafter be used as a species of
guide, by those of my countrymen and others
who may hereafter visit Greece, and especially
Athens and its immediate vicinity, I think it
may be convenient if I here insert a brief and
rapid sketch of the history of Attica, from the
earliest records up to the present hour ; as I am
not aware that any such summary exists, in a
convenient and available form, for the travel
ler's use and reference.
Previous to the time of Cecrops, the town of
Athens was not in existence. Cecrops was an
Egyptian, who led a colony to Attica about the
year 1 550 before the Christian era. He it was

HISTORICAL SKETCH. 135
who first introduced the arts of Egypt, brought
together the inhabitants, and taught them the
advantage of living in towns and villages.
In ancient times, before the arts of war and of
fortification had been carried to any noticeable
extent, the people always resorted for security to
some hill-top, — first, that they might more readily
observe the approach of an enemy ; and secondly,
because its natural position made it a defence
against any invader. The hill of the Acropolis was
fixed upon by Cecrops for these purposes, and
the whole of it was covered with small, rude huts.
The present name of the hill is what the city was
then caUed, AxpovoXts, two Greek words, axpos and
wo*Mr, signifying, the high city, or a city on a hill.
It was also called Cecropia, from the name of its
founder; and afterwards Athense, in honour of
Minerva, to whom it was especiaUy dedicated.
The laws of Cecrops were so just, and he so
much ameliorated the condition of the aboriginal
inhabitants, that he was enabled to marry the
daughter of one of the neighbouring princes, and
was chosen sovereign by the people. He reigned
for the space of fifty years, and was succeeded by
two other kings ; and then reigned Erichtonius,
about the year 1487 b.c. It was this famous king

136 HISTORICAL SKETCH
who gave the name of Athenae to the twelve
villages instituted by Cecrops. From the close of
the reign of Erichtonius to the commencement of
that of Egeus, four kings of no note bore sway.
Egeus succeeded about 1283 b.c. He was the
husband of Medea, the divorced wife of Jason.
The two latter have been made famous in heroic
annals by the immortal poem of Euripides. May
it not also be said, without the charge of extra
vagance, that a female artist of our own day
has, for the first time since the era in question,
revived, in her noble representation of " Medea,"
the same emotions which attended the original
representation of the drama, in the hearts of the
whole Athenian people?
Egeus was also famous for having a son whose
name was Theseus, and in whose honour (480 b.c.)
the Temple of Theseus was built. Theseus was
a great warrior and hero ; and having rendered
important services to Greece, that temple, which
is now the most perfect of Grecian remains, was
erected to perpetuate his memory, together with
festivals which were celebrated until within a
short period of the Christian era. It is a singular
fact that this, one of the earliest temples in
Greece, is at this present moment in a more

OF GREECE. 137
perfect state of preservation than any other
similar edifice. Viewed from the Acropolis, it
has all the appearance of having been recently
erected. Nothing particularly worthy of mention occurs
in the Athenian annals, until the reign of Codrus,
who was the last of seventeen kings descending
from Cecrops, the founder of Athens. Codrus
died, 1091 b.c, and with him perished monarchy
in Athens. The reason assigned by the Athen
ians for abolishing monarchy was rather a curious
one. Codrus, their last monarch, was so excel
lent a king, and so universally beloved by his
subjects, that they were fearful it would be im
possible to obtain another like him ; and rather
than have the name of king debased by an un
worthy successor, they decreed that monarchy
should be abolished !
The title of Archon was now given to the
chief ruler of Athens, that being the signification
of the word. These Archons were first chosen for
life, and the first of them was the eldest son of
the late monarch, Codrus. This arrangement
continued until the year 753 b.c, when the
archons were chosen for ten years only ; at the end

138 HISTORICAL SKETCH
of about sixty years more, the period of archon-
ship was reduced to one year, and the number
of the archons increased to nine ; one of them
being chief, two other next in rank and power,
and the other six inferior. The government re
tained this form until the Spartans under Lysan-
der conquered Athens.
Athens reached the highest point of her power
and glory under Pericles ; and she maintained
her proud supremacy for about 200 years.
The first great feat of arms of the Athenians
was the expedition under Militiades, against the
numerous forces of Darius, the Persian king, which
were defeated at Marathon, 490 b.c Secondly,
the Spartans under Leonidas opposed Xerxes,
king of Persia, with his numerous host, at the
pass of Thermopylae, Aug. 7, 480 b.c Shortly
afterwards, during the same year, (Oct. 20,) the
Athenians under Themistocles gained a most
signal victory, at Salamis, over the fleet of the
Persian monarch, forcing him to quit Greece
immediately. It was during these inroads of the Persians that
the first Parthenon, or Temple of Minerva, was
destroyed by them ; but it was restored under

OF GREECE. 139
Pericles, with redoubled and unexampled splen
dour and sculptural beauty ; as even the present
remains of it amply attest. Pericles was for forty
years at the head of the Athenian administration ;
during which time he embellished Athens with
many pubhc buildings, of great beauty and splen
dour. When in the height of its magnificence, it is
recorded that the city of Athens was twenty-five
miles in circumference. Supposing, therefore, its
diameter to have been about eight miles, an
cient Athens must have extended from the Piraeus,
Munychia, and Phalerum, and the sea-coast, as
far as mount Hymettus, including the present
residences of Luriottis and Mr. Bracebridge.
Following the circle, it must have included
Calandra; also two miles beyond Sir P. Mal
colm's house, overshooting Mr. BeU's house, as
far as the pass of Daphne ; also all the sea-coast
upon the bay of Salamis, round to the Piraeus
again. The magnificence of such a city, with its tem
ples, large and smaU, its numerous stoai, (porti
coes,) its theatres, its agorai, (forums,) its public
haUs, its academies and stadiums, most of them
formed of fine Pentelic marble, from the quarries

140 HISTORICAL SKETCH
I have previously mentioned, and that too under
the finest climate, and in the best topographical
situation in the world, must have rendered it the
admiration and envy of the civilized world. That
great nation, the Romans, notwithstanding it was a
conquered province, looked upon it as the source
whence everything great in literature and the
fine arts sprung, and the Roman youth were sent
thither to learn the art of governing.
The most flourishing state of Greece was
from between 550 b.c. till about 336. In
the previous century, the seven wise men of
Greece had diffused knowledge through the
various states of that country; tragedy and
comedy flourished under Euripides and Aristo
phanes ; the fine arts under Phidias and Apelles ;
and medicine under Hippocrates ; and Demos
thenes, Plato, Aristotle, Pericles, Pisistratus, Alci-
biades, Leonidas, Aristides, Themistocles, and
Epaminondas, the greatest men Greece has pro
duced, were born during that period.
Three years after Lysander had conquered
Athens, 404. b.c, the thirty tyrants were expelled
by the Athenians, and a council of ten was sub
stituted in their place ; still they were under the
influence of Sparta, and remained so, until the

OF GREECE. 141
time of Philip, King of Macedon, 345 b.c when
the Athenians regained their power, and made
head against Philip.
About 170 years after the death of Alexander,
PauUus Emilius defeated Philip, king of Mace
don, and made him a prisoner, and Macedon was
declared a Roman province, a.d. 168. Athens
submitted to the yoke immediately after ; Corinth,
1 4 6 b . c , was subdued by L . Mummius , and shortly
afterwards the whole of the Morea.
Greece was now under the sway of the Romans,
and they made it a sort of university for the
Roman youth. The most talented men resided
at Athens ; the arts flourished there ; and the
Roman emperors made it their study to orna
ment and beautify the city.
One of the greatest monuments of antiquity at
Athens was finished by the Romans; — the Temple
of Jupiter Olympus. That temple was commenced
by the Athenians, under Pisistratus, 530 b.c,
and finished by Adrian, a.d. 145, about 700
years after its commencement. It was four
stadia in circumference, and had a vast number of
pillars, of which a few only are now remaining,
as may be seen by our plate.
These beautiful columns are decidedly the most

142 HISTORICAL SKETCH
commanding and picturesque feature connected
with the present state of Athens. Views of that
city may be taken from various points ; but none
are interesting that do not possess these columns ;
they throw a charm over the whole view, which
the temple of Theseus, and even the Parthenon
itself, would not otherwise be capable of attaining.
To return to our brief historical sketch ;
Greece was destined again to become a great
power, at least, by incorporating herself with
other kingdoms, and forming the Grecian or
Eastern Empire, and giving its haUowed name to
the whole.
After a succession of many Roman emperors,
Constantine the Great decided upon making
Byzantium (Constantinople) the seat of the
Roman empire, about the year 350 ; and this
arrangement continued until the death of Theodo
sius, a.d. 395. The latter had two sons, Arca-
dius and Honorius, who divided the empire
between them, termed Eastern and Western ; the
eastern comprised Hungary, Sclavonia, Croatia,
Bosnia, Dalmatia, on the Adriatic ; Transylvania,
Moldavia, Wallachia, and Besarabia, on the
Black sea ; Bulgaria, Servia, Roumelia, Macedo
nia, and Albania, Thessaly, and Modern Greece ;

OF GREECE. 143
these were its possessions in Europe. It
possessed in Asia, Armenia, Syria, Judea,
Mesopotamia, and Medea, with other provinces
in Asia Minor, besides vast territories in Africa.
Over this immense tract of country, Arcadius,
the eldest son of Theodosius, reigned ; and he and
his descendants were denominated emperors of
the Eastern, or Greek, empire.
The Western Empire, consisting of Italy,
Sicily, Gaul, Spain, and Britain, was reigned
over by Honorius, the second son of Theodo
sius; and he and his successors were denominated
Emperors of the West. For the following eight
centuries, the emperors of the East, or the
Grecian emperors, reigned at Constantinople ;
and, as I have said before, Christianity was
adopted by Constantine and the emperors from
his time.
The growing power of the Saracens, in the
seventh century, had left the Christians of Asia
but little to enjoy. The Grecian Empire lost its
best provinces — Palestine, Syria, and Egypt.
The Christian churches were converted into
Mahometan mosques, and a great portion of
the inhabitants had been forced to embrace the

144 HISTORICAL SKETCH
Mahometan faith. Emboldened by their suc
cesses, they resolved to attempt the reduction of
Constantinople itself, and collected an immense
force, both by sea and land. They were, how
ever, foiled by the vigour and skill of Pogonatus,
the emperor. This struggle lasted for seven
successive years, after which time the Saracens
retired, making peace with the Greeks.
It was in the eleventh century, a.d. 1096, that
the Christians of Western Europe formed a
league to drive the Turks out of Palestine.
The first crusade was preached by Peter the Her
mit ; and the armament was composed of four
hundred thousand souls, under the command of
Godfrey de Bouillon, Duke of Lorraine ; Hugh,
the brother of Philip I., King of France ; Ro
bert, Duke of Normandy, brother to William II.,
King of England ; Raymond, Count of Tou
louse ; and Robert, Earl of Flanders.
They made Constantinople the rendezvous,
where they arrived in the following spring, du
ring the reign of Alexis Comnenus, the emperor.
This army crossed the Hellespont, passed some
time in Asia Minor, in overcoming the obstacles
that presented themselves, and then marched to

OF GREECE. 145
Jerusalem, and delivered it in five weeks from
the time they arrived before it, 15th July, 1099.
Godfrey de Bouillon was chosen King of that city.
The second crusade against the encroachment
of the Turks occurred a.d. 1147. Conrad, the
Emperor of Germany, and Louis VII. of France,
went with an army of a hundred and fifty thou
sand men, taking the same route as the pre
ceding armament ; but nearly all this army was
destroyed, and they effected nothing.
It was about the year 1190 that the third
crusade commenced against the Turks under
Saladin. Our brave Monarch, Richard, and
Philip Augustus, King of France, with other
sovereigns, transported an army to the Holy
Land, by means of Venetian vessels ; Venice
having now become (solely by means of its com
merce) a great power. This state could equip
fleets that England, France, and Germany, could
not furnish coUectively ; and their alliance was
courted in preference to all the kings of Europe.
Saladin opposed them with three hundred thou
sand men, but the Christians obtained a victory.
Jerusalem, however, was not taken by Richard,
his ally, the French King, having retired,
forcing our brave monarch to do the same.
VOL. II. L

146 HISTORICAL SKETCH
In the year a.d. 1202, the Venetians, with
Baudouin, Count de Flandres, and the Marquis
Montserrat, agreed upon uniting their forces
and attacking Constantinople, which they suc
ceeded in taking, a. d. 1204.
Having done so, these three states divided the
spoil. The Venetians took for their share the
Morea of Greece, the island of Candia, and
many towns on the coast of Phrygia. The Mar
quis de Montserrat took for his share Thessaly ;
and the Count de Flandres, causing himself to be
elected Emperor at Constantinople, took the rest
of the spoil ; but Saladin had got the greater
part of Asia Minor.
The invaders were termed by the Greeks,
" the Latins ;" and this new dynasty reigned till
the year 1261, when the Greeks got back the
seat of empire, Constantinople, under Michael
Paleologus, their Emperor. But the Morea,
great part of Greece, with Candia and Cyprus,
was still retained by the Venetians.
The last crusade against the Turks was under
taken by St. Louis, King of France, a.d. 1248, who,
after many reverses, was taken prisoner, with his
army, by the Sultan ; but was liberated a.d. 1254.
The Greek Empire from this period tottered

OF GREECE. \A7
much, and it is recorded that, in the year
1362, there were three emperors of the East,
competitors for the throne. The town of Con
stantinople, in the hands of the Greeks, had
one ; Adrianople, taken by Amurath, 1362, had
the second; and the ancient Colchis, named
Trebizond, under Comenes, had the third.
In the year 1453, Mahomet the Great at
tacked Constantinople with three hundred thou
sand men, and, after besieging it for ninety days,
he took it by assault, May 29, killing the Emperor
Constantine Paleologus. Greece soon followed
the fate of Constantinople, and the Turks over
ran the Continent and the Morea, wresting it from
the Venetians, in a.d. 1481.
SeUm II. , one of the successors of Mahomet,
in 1571, took the beautiful island of Cyprus
from the Venetians, after the loss of which, the
Venetians got up a crusade against the Turks, in
which the Pope and Philip II. joined them.
Five months after the island of Cyprus was
taken, about two hundred and eighty vessels of
war, large and small, were all ready in the ports
of Sicily. Phihp II. had furnished one half of
these ; the Venetians two-thirds of the other
half; and the Pope the remainder.
l2

148 HISTORICAL SKETCH
Don Juan of Austria, the son of Charles V.,
was the general of the fleet. Marco Antonio
Colonna commanded under him in the name of
the Pope ; and Sebastian Veniero was the Admi
ral of the Venetians. This armament had from
forty to fifty thousand men on board.
Notwithstanding the magnitude of this fleet,
the Ottoman squadron was much stronger. It
was composed of two hundred and fifty gaUeys,
but of a larger size. These two armaments met
in the Gulph of Lepanto, not far from Corinth.
The Turkish galleys were manned by Christian
slaves ; and the Christian gaUeys by Turkish
slaves. The engagement took place on the 5th of
October, 1571. Don Juan of Austria and the
Venetian Admiral attacked the vessel of Ali,
the Turkish Admiral. He was taken with his
vessel, his head was immediately cut off, and
placed upon the staff above his own flag.
This proceeding could only be justified by its
being considered as a retahation for the atrocious
conduct of the Turks, in burning alive Brigadino,
the Commandant at Framagousta, the capital of
the island of Cyprus, after it had surrendered to
the Turkish power.

OF GREECE. 149
The sight of the Admiral's head dispirited the
Turks, who gave way, losing a hundred and fifty
vessels of war : fifteen thousand Turks were
destroyed, and five thousand Christian slaves
were rescued from slavery.
All the credit of this action was given to Don
Juan of Austria, the generalissimo, whom Pope
Pius V. denominated ever afterwards " a man sent
from God;" and he was considered by all Europe
as the first captain of the age. This signal vic
tory checked for a time the ardour of the Turks,
and the island of Candia was still held by the
Venetians for another century, when it was
taken by the famous Turkish General, Kaprogli.
He was the Grand Vizier of Mahomet IV.,
and was accounted one of the greatest men of
the age.
During this siege, which, like another Troy,
lasted many years, the flower of the nobility of
Europe distinguished themselves. The Duke of
Beaufort, who had a command of six thousand
men, was killed at it ; and the Duke de Noailles
succeeded him in the command of the allies ; but
nothing could overcome the obstinate perseve
rance of the Turks, and the town commanded

150 HISTORICAL SKETCH
by Morosini, the Venetian, surrendered in Sep
tember, 1669.
The Venetian general had his revenge, for,
about eighteen years afterwards, he entered the
Morea, and conquered the whole of it from the
Turks. It was at this epoch that that beautiful
building, the Parthenon, which previous to that
period was almost perfect, was so much injured.
We owe to the Venetians and the Turks the ruin
of this structure. Morosoni besieged the Acro
polis in 1687, and threw a shell, which entered
the Parthenon, and communicated with a maga
zine of powder, which exploding, demohshed
great part of the temple. In fact, nothmg but a
convulsion similar to that which I have de
scribed could have overthrown the immense
masses of marble which have been detached from
that temple.
The Venetians retained possession of the Morea
and Greece until the year 1715, when the Turks
again and finaUy reconquered this country, in
the reign of Achmet III.,— the Venetians not
being again able to reconquer it. The Turks,
therefore, have had possession of Greece three
hundred and nineteen years — First, from the

OF GREECE. 151
year 1481 to 1687, and then from 1715 to
1828, when the battle of Navarino, which oc
curred in October of that year, finally liberated
Greece from the dominion of the Turks and
Egyptians.

152

CHAPTER VIII.
St. George's Day — Answer to my Petition — Observations
thereon — The Order of the Saviour — Steam Vessels —
Works at the Piraeus — Change of Habitation — The Feast
of the Pentecost — Convent of Kassariani — Greek Women
sketched — Their Dances and Amusements.
EXTRACTS FROM JOURNAL, CONTINUED.
May 5, 1836. — This is St. George's day, and the
whole population of Athens were early in the
morning in motion to celebrate it; — proceeding,
in large parties, to the sacred olive groves, to
pass the day in carousal. Freorites offered to
accompany me to see the amusements, and we
accordingly went at about one o'clock.
On our arrival in the olive grove, the music
of the guitar, lyre, and fiddle were heard on all
sides, and this happy people were dancing with
all the eagerness imaginable, in parties of ten or

st. george's day. 153
twelve together ; and as I was known to several
of them, they welcomed me, and invited me, in
the most friendly manner, to partake of their
good cheer, and to join in the dance of the
Romaika. My attention was much attracted by the acti
vity of the leader of one of the groups of dancers.
His great fort was to bend his toes underneath,
and walk upon the knuckles of them : this
feat obtained him great applause. The lyre, in
consequence, struck up still louder, and these
innocent people forgot all their troubles to the
sound of their wild music.
Towards the evening they became a little bois
terous ; but no mischief occurred, nor did I ever
hear of any, arising from their Bacchanalian
feasts, in any other part of the neighbourhood.
We stopped late, returning home upon donkies,
with a very large party, who were indulging in
their natural wit ; the wine they had drank serv
ing to increase it ; and peals of laughter resounded
on aU sides.
On arriving at home, I found on my table
an answer to my petition, which had been pre
sented in December last.

154 THE AUTHOR'S CLAIMS
I must here beg permission of my readers to
refer, somewhat in detail, to the nature of this
answer, and to the petition itself, to which it was
a reply. My petition had set forth, that myself, and
several others, had deposited the sum of 790Z.
sterling, as a security that the line of steam
boats before referred to should be established ; on
condition of which establishment I was to derive
certain advantages from the Greek government.
My failure, and its causes, have been before
noticed. I now petitioned that his Majesty would
give me back the money I had deposited, and
also the sum I had expended out of my own
pocket (to the amount of 600/.) in endeavouring
to effect the desired object. I asked for the first,
upon the ground that the failure had in no respect
resulted from any cause over which I had con
trol ; and that, moreover, as no forfeit had ever
been paid in Greece, it would be a hard thing to
commence it in the case of one who had long
served Greece with his sword, without any emolu
ment or advantage. I further added, that out of
the 790/. I had deposited, my own share was 1 60/.,
and that I had become security for 320/. more.
Relative to the 600/. which I had lost by the

ON THE GOVERNMENT. 155
affair, I begged of them to take into considera
tion my services, and suggested the repayment to
me of 100/. annually, until the whole was liqui
dated ; at the same time hinting, that it was
through my exertions that the French govern
ment had been excited to build steam-vessels,
and estabhsh them upon the track I had specified ;
in consequence of which, the Greek government
had obtained the desired intercourse with Wes
tern Europe, without being put to any expense.
Thus far my petition. The answer to it in
formed me, that 160/. was awarded me, and, in
addition, 40Z. for my passage home, but beyond
that nothing was to be expected by me.
I caUed, in consequence, upon Mr. Frei, who
occupied the post similar to that of under Secre
tary of State, and I expostulated with him upon
the injustice and hardship of the case. He re
phed, that my claim was just, but that the go
vernment, at present, had not the means of satis
fying it, — that they were A>*ery poor, but that his
Majesty would restore the money to me as soon
as circumstances would aUow of his so doing.
The fact is, that there was much truth in what
Mr. Frei stated ; and I have no doubt that it was

156 THE AUTHOR'S CLAIMS.
the poverty of the government which caused
them to withhold this money ; for I cannot con
ceive for a moment that upon any other ground
would the Greek government allow such a spot
of ingratitude to attach itself to them, — marking,
as a precedent for injustice, an old philhellene,who
had not only served Greece with his sword, but
also with his time and fortune, and directed those
energies in such a way as to create the rivalry of
a powerful kingdom like France, and this entirely
to the benefit of Greece.
At all events, whatever may be my complaint
against the Greek government, my private feehngs
will not influence my public conduct. The go
vernment of Greece are not the people ; and there
fore I ever have done, and ever shaU do, every
thing in my power to serve Greece, whether by
promulgating just opinions concerning her pros
pects and character as a nation, or by any other
means. The Greeks are an excellent people, merit
ing every encouragement and support from the
civilized world ; and to a description of their habits
and manners I shall now return ; — again recurring
to the simple and inartificial source of my journal,
for what I daily observed concerning them.

ORDER OF THE SAVIOUR. 157
May 10. — His Britannic Majesty's steam-
vessel Medea, having arrived at the Piraeus on
the 8th, for the purpose of receiving the King of
Greece, — who was to go to Ancona in her, and
thence to proceed to Bavaria to visit his family, —
the King embarked for that purpose this day.
The troops were placed in two lines, extending
from the palace, through Mercury- street, to the
outskirts of the town. The Counsellors of
State met his Majesty at the suburbs, and accom
panied him to his embarkation. He was escorted
by a squadron of cavalry.
On the evening of the same day, my friend,
Doctor Rezer, waited on me at my hotel, and
informed me that his Majesty, before his depar
ture, had conferred upon me the Royal Military
Order of the Saviour ; the worthy doctor at the
same time offering his congratulations upon the
occasion. I may be excused for mentioning this circum
stance, as it affords me the opportunity of stating,
that I did not, in any manner, apply for the fa
vour, and, consequently, it proves his Majesty's
good feelings towards me, and confirms me in
my first impression, that the government virtually

158 GREEK YOUTH.
admitted the claim of my petition, and only failed
to return me my money in consequence of their
actual incapacity to do so.
My pecuniary and personal affairs being now
terminated in Greece, I at first thought of quit
ting it immediately ; but, on further consideration,
I have made up my mind to remain for some
time longer, that I may devote my undivided at
tention in observing the manners of the inha
bitants of Athens — for Athens is all Greece.
In the morning of this day I attended at Mr.
King's Institution, to hear Demosthenes read in
ancient Greek, by Freorites, my tutor, and then
explained in the modern Greek. Some of the
Greek youths who attended this reading were
without a shoe to their feet ; yet the inteUigent
and feeling manner in which they entered into
the spirit of these studies, was truly admirable
and pleasing. A few years will bring these
youths forward, and probably from these ragged
little urchins may spring future ministers of state,
who may decide the destinies of their country.
The modern Greek is not a difficult language to
acquire, especially to those who have acquired the
ancient tongue ; for though the pronunciation is
widely and strangely different, yet the construe-

ORESTES IN ATHENS. 159
tion, and much of the phraseology, bear a great
resemblance ; so much so, that the editors of the
journals frequently introduce the ancient lan
guage into their publications, and are thereby in
sensibly restoring the ancient words.
On the evening of this day the mihtary band
that was stationed near the theatre for the amuse
ment of the people, (performing from six o'clock
in the evening until the opening of the theatre,)
was assisted by the addition of a German mili
tary horn band, which performed several favou
rite German airs, thereby congregating a large
body of people, among whom I met young
Miaulis. After amusing ourselves here for some
time, it was proposed that we should visit the
theatre. The entertainment was the tragedy of Orestes,
performed by amateurs who would have done
credit to any theatre ; and they elicited from the
audience reiterated shouts of approbation.
May 12. — This morning I received a visit
from the Rev. Mr. Hill, who informed me that a
French steamer had just arrived from Marseilles,
with forty passengers on board. She was char
tered to take them to Athens, Constantinople,
Alexandria, and Algiers, and then to return to

160 THE PIRAEUS.
Marseilles. We rode down to the Piraeus to
visit this vessel, and were astonished at the mag
nificence of the interior, it being similar to that
of a royal yacht.
On returning, I paid particular attention to the
works that are carrying on at the Piraeus by the
government, who are filling up the marsh prior
to the construction of a pier, which, when finished,
will afford accommodation to 2000 merchant
vessels. The Piraeus is now a large town, pos
sessing about three hundred houses ; and the
Sciotes, the first merchants of the Levant, are
about building their residences there, which will
make it a place of some importance in the com
mercial world.
In the evening we returned to Athens, pro
ceeding to the house of the worthy pastor who
had accompanied me ; the Miss MuUingers, his
relatives, having a conversazione of a few friends.
I owe much to this excellent family, for the many
happy evenings I have passed at their house.
May 13. — As I have grown tired of the mo
notony of my long residence at a public hotel, I
determined to seek a new style of menage. Not
that I am displeased with my treatment by M.
Louis, of the Hotel de France; but I feel a wish

NEW LODGINGS. 161
for change. Is it that the air of Athens has
imparted to my system that love of novelty for
which the Greeks have been so famous in all
ages ? At all events, I have grown weary of
mounting the same steps daily, — of seeing the
same poultry running about the same yard, and
of the barking of the same great black dog. I am
even tired of the gambols of little Justin, (the
brother of my pretty and youthful landlady,) who
is privileged — (Justin — not his fair sister) — to
enter my room at all times, and try to entertain
himself and me with his innocent prattle. At
aU events, I am determined to move ; so I sum
moned Louis and told him my intention. He
remonstrated strongly, and brought all the other
inmates of the house to second his desire for my
stay. But now that I have once thought of going,
go I must, or I feel that I should fairly excite
myself into a fit of illness.
Accordingly, when Freorites arrived to-day, to
give me my Greek lesson, I begged that he would
accompany me in my search. He mentioned to
me the hotels Munich, Royale, and Brunot, all
very good residences ; but I am tired of living
at an hotel, and will have nothing but a private
lodging. We therefore sallied out in pursuit,
VOL. II. M

162 A GREEK BEAUTY.
and, after some difficulty, we found very good
apartments at No. 170 in Mercury-street. They
consisted of a sitting-room, bed-room, and a
kitchen, for which I am to pay forty drachmas
a month. There is a very good balcony, which
enables me to survey the whole street from one
end to the other ; and as this street is the prin
cipal thoroughfare in Athens, I could not have
done better. The house, however, wants paint
ing ; and I have agreed to pay the landlady one
month in advance if she will paint the doors and
windows ; to which she has assented. The place
is to be ready for my reception in a week.
May 15. — I went to-day to see how my new
apartments get on. As it was early in the morn
ing, I suppose my good landlady did not expect
me ; for I found her and her daughter in my
apartments, scrubbing them out with great assi
duity. The daughter, whom I now saw for the
first time, is about fifteen years of age, and her
countenance is one of the most beautiful I have
ever seen. Nothing could be prettier than the
modest surprise with which the daughter saw
my unexpected entrance. She immediately left
off her work, dropped her beautiful eyes on the
ground, put one hand up to her face, and stood

A GREEK HOUSEWIFE. 163
thus, for a minute or two, still and silent as a
statue. She then left the room ; — not, however,
till I had said something expressive of my sur
prise and admiration, which evidently did not
displease the retiring beauty.
On inquiring of the old lady how long she had
been in Athens, she informed me that she was
the wife of an old soldier, who had been killed
in the revolution, leaving her with two daughters,
Thalia and Helen ; that upon the death of her
husband she had coUected the remnants of his
property, amounting to about 1,500 drachmas, in
land and other effects, and had lived with a rela
tion ; that she had supported herself by spinning
cotton, and making cloth, which she sold, and
by which means she gained a livelihood, and she
was thus enabled to preserve the money that she
had received at her husband's death. " I have
been in Athens," continued she, " about a year.
As soon as the town was planned out, I com
menced building this house ; and it is by letting
it that I now live. My eldest daughter, Thalia,
has been married about two years, to a very
industrious young man ; my youngest, Helen,
you have just seen."
I employed the remainder of this day in pur-
m 2

164 GREEK NEIGHBOURS.
chasing the necessary furniture for my rooms*,1
Myself and Demetrie proceeded to a house in
Mercury-street, at which there is daily an auc
tion, for the sale of furniture and other articles ;
and for the sum of about eight pounds I pur
chased all that was needed to make my new
menage comfortable. The auctioneer was very
active in the sale of his articles. He did not
stand still, like ours, and quietly say, " Going,
going, gone ;" but walked up and down the front
of the shop, like a wild animal, vociferating and
declaiming upon the excellence of the articles,
to the audience that were in the street.
May 18. — Having settled myself in my new
lodgings, I find that my neighbours around me
are disposed to be very sociable ; several of them
having already called to welcome me. The one
opposite, an elderly man, says that he is much
delighted that I am his neighbour, and that he
shall always be ready to render me a service.
He is a married man ; but as I am not, his wife
did not accompany him. The one on the right
is brother to my landlady, and he visited me
because he says that he knew some one who was
at the Piraeus seven years ago, when the battle
of Athens occurred, at which he had heard I was

GREEK FETE. 165
also present. I am much pleased with these spon
taneous visits of my neighbours, and I always take
care to make them as welcome as I can, by ordering
coffee and pipes — the necessary appendages of a
Greek visit — the moment they arrive. The affairs
of the nation are discussed at these visits ; and they
all declare that nothing but money is wanting to
make Greece flourish to the utmost extent of her
well-wishers. My opposite neighbour said to
me to-day, " Observe my house, which is half
built ; could I but raise two hundred dollars to
finish it, I should be a happy man."
" Why cannot you raise it?" said I; "your
property is good."
" Because I shall have to pay thirty per cent.
for the loan of the money."
The conversation then turned on the approach
ing fete that is to take place on the 28th, called
the Feast of the Pentecost ; being the close of the
forty days Fast, during which the Greeks have
lived on bread and olives, with the exception of
fish twice a week. The celebration of this feast
is to take place at the convent of Kaisariani, (a
Greek word, signifying amusement,) about one
hour distant from the town ; and I learn that half
Athens will be there.

166 GREEK FESTIVAL.
May 28. — Early this morning I walked out
with my dominie as far as the new palace ; the
Athenians were passing in crowds to the place
of festivity. The women were on horseback,
accompanied either by their lovers or their hus
bands. The Greek females ride (after the ex
ample of other ladies of the east) in the fashion
of men, wearing trowsers.
Having returned home to breakfast, and De
metrie having procured me a horse for the day,
for the sum of six drachmas, I mounted, about
ten o'clock, and proceeded to the scene of the
fete ; which I find is the grandest and most im
portant of the whole year.
About a mile from the town, under a cluster
of trees, I observed a large pedestrian party, who
had made a halt, being too idle to proceed to the
monastery. Groups of men and women were
here and there seated, waiting till their dinner
was ready, which consisted of a lamb, that was
roasting whole over a wood fire. Anticipating
what was to take place after the feast, at about
twenty yards distant, under a fig-tree, a man was
lying on his back at full length, scraping upon a
fiddle. The music, however, had no effect upon
the dancing faculties of the party, — everybody

GREEK FESTIVAL. 167
being intent on the roasting lamb ; and the modern
Orpheus was allowed to indulge his musical talent
for his own amusement. Pursuing, then, my
journey, I arrived in one hour at the convent of
Kaisariani. The convent is placed on a small eminence, at
the base of Mount Hymettus, the approach to
which is through a ravine, with olive trees on
each side. It is a square building, measuring
about a hundred yards each way, and within
are two court yards, containing a chapel, and
apartments and cells for the inmates. At about
a hundred yards from the convent were picquetted
horses, mules, and donkeys, the number of which
may be imagined by the fact, that there were
at least five thousand men, women, and children
present. Some were taking refreshment in
groups on the grass ; others had already com
menced the great business of the day, — namely,
dancing. This was the first time I had ever seen
the Romaika danced by women. They did not
dance with the men, however, but formed a circle
by themselves. Their attitudes were very grace
ful, and they performed the dance very prettily,
unaccompanied by any demonstrations of rude or
boisterous mirth. The lyre was the music, to the
VOL. II. M*

168 ALBANIAN WOMEN.
sweetness of which was added, every now and then,
the warbling of the women's voices, but so softly
as not to be heard above the sound of the lyre,
and only chiming in harmoniously with it at that
part of the tune which corresponded with the
chorus. The Albanian women were easily distinguish
able from those of the other parts of Greece.
They are a large race, and their complexion is
more fair than that of the other Greeks, but the
features are not so pleasing. Their dress is very
simple, consisting of a large white and red
pelisse. Their shoes are a kind of slipper, with
wooden soles ; and in performing the Romaika,
whenever it came off, they slipped their foot in
again with much dexterity, without stopping the
dance. After I had been there an hour, I was joined
by two English travellers, — the Hon. Mr. C,
and Lord D. The first was a very good artist,
and with his pencil he sketched a pretty little
Moreote woman, the wife of a Greek captain,
who was with her. Not wishing to rouse the
ire of a Greek chieftain, and particularly after
he had imbibed a tolerable portion of wine, we
covered the artist a little in his operations, by

GREEK FEMALE BEAUTY. 169
placing ourselves between him and the husband,
in such a manner that the former might not be
seen. He had not worked more than five mi
nutes, when the lady perceived what he was
about, and was evidently not displeased at it ;
for she shortly afterwards placed herself in a
better situation for the artist to finish his work.
Her head was not dressed like the Athenian
women in general; she wore only a red cap, with
a large curl of auburn hair on each side of her
face, bending behind her ears, and contrasting
with her fair complexion on the one hand, and
her dark red cap on the other. The middling-
class of women in Greece, the wives and daugh
ters of the farmers and small landholders, are as
fine a race as I have seen in any country in the
world ; and I have no doubt, that one reason for
this is, the double fact of their marrying at
the proper time of life, and almost always from
inclination. Moreover, the peasantry in Greece
have always been well off, — their habits being
careful, frugal, and prudent.
As we passed the variously formed groups,
many of them came forward and pledged us in
their country wine, — which, though a little resiny,
politeness required that we should partake of.

170 NATIONAL MUSIC.
The band of the German regiment stationed
at Athens arrived at the convent about one
o'clock, and played a few national airs, to which
the Greeks danced; but there was no harmony
between the Greek dancing and the Greek airs,
as performed by the German musicians. The
effect, indeed, was quite unsatisfactory ; and the
people evidently preferred their own wild strains,
played by their rude instruments, to all the
recherche harmony of the German musicians.
It was like the Scotch highlander with his bag
pipes, accompanying the Scottish fling. The
one would be nothing without the other, — so
powerful is the association of ideas. All Athens,
as well foreigners as natives, were present at this
fete. About four o'clock, we mounted our horses to
return to Athens ; and, on our way back, we
met crowds still flocking to Kaisariani. Among
these was Sir E. Lyons and his family, on horse
back, accompanied by Prince Puckler Muskau, —
the latter wearing a large slouch Leghorn hat, and
a white poncho, after the style of the Chilian
peasants. Having stopped to speak with his
Excellency, he invited us to pass the evening at
his house.

RETURN HOME. 171
The weather being exceedingly hot, we had,
by the time we reached home, quite enough of
our day's excursion. We, however, soon re
freshed and recruited ourselves for the evening
party, by adjourning to the Cafe Otho to eat ice,
and then to the hotel of one of our party, where
we dined.

72

CHAPTER IX.
Cricketing at Port Munychia — Schoolmaster and his Boys
—The Palaces— The Military Hospital— The Theatre-
Anniversary of the King's Coronation — Medical Institu
tion — Fete Day of Constantine and Ellen — Visit to the
Country — Greek Phalanx — High rate of Money.
EXTRACTS FROM JOURNAL CONTINUED.
May 29. — To-day, the officers of his Majesty's
frigate, Portland, lying at Piraeus, having invited
me to play a game at cricket with them, I rode
to the Piraeus, and we aU went to a spot to the
left of the port, and which is caUed the Port
Munychia ; it is an excellent place for this
amusement. Captain Price and his officers, also
Lord D., and the Hon. Mr. C, were of the party.
The two latter gentlemen were to proceed at six
o'clock, in the Levant steam-boat, for Smyrna, —
a vessel that performs that voyage every fort
night. I had not played at this game for many

THE REV. MR. KING. 173
a year, but it so happened that, by dint of my
bad play, I was more successful than any other
of the party ! They made me bowler ; and in
consequence of my performing that operation
not en regie, I bowled out three of the party con
secutively. I afterwards dined with Captain
Price, on board his vessel, and at eight o'clock
in the evening returned to town with Sir Edmund
Lyons and Mr. Luriottis, who had come on board
to visit the captain.
Port Munychia is a little port to the east of
the Piraeus, and between the latter and the Pha-
lere, and is not used now as a place of an
chorage. It was formerly well fortified, and
there are still remains of the walls to be seen.
This spot owes its name to King Munychus, who
built a temple here to Diana, and in whose honour
he instituted naval festivals and games, called
Munychia. The Lacedemonians held this port
for some time, and kept a strong garrison there.
May 30. — This afternoon, I had the pleasure
of a visit from the Rev. Mr. King, at my new
habitation. After having chatted with me for
some time, we proposed a walk together. On our
way through the suburbs of the town, to the left
of the chancellor's house, our attention was at-

174 THE SCHOOLMASTER ItJ GREECE.
tracted by a schoolmaster and his boys, whose
evolutions we could not very well make out the
meaning of. The master was reciting, and the
boys were repeating after him, — both parties in
a strange and by no means agreeable nasal tone
of voice. After watching this performance for
some time, we observed the dominie to com
mence chaunting, and beating time with his foot :
his pupils doing the same. After a little while,
he began to walk round in a circle : his pupils
following him and chanting. He then made
them squat down, and rise up suddenly again,
and cross themselves ; which having repeated
for about five minutes, he dismissed his httle
flock. We then addressed the poor old man, and in
quired how much he received from each pupil
for the instructions we had witnessed. He an
swered, one drachma a month ; and being asked
if they all paid him regularly, he answered, with
a shrug of his shoulders, "Not always, — my
pupils are poor." Continuing our walk, we
reached the new palace, and examined the pro
gress of the works. The walls, which are raised
on a foundation that commences twelve feet below
the surface of the earth, are full six feet thick.

MILITARY HOSPITAL. 175
The building is under the superintendence of a
military engineer, who evinces great skill and
judgment in the arrangements. They were busy
to-day blasting a part of the rocky foundation, to
make a wine ceUar, — an indispensable requisite
for a palace.
We then continued our walk to the military
hospital, on the eastern side of the acropolis.
This is a building worthy of any capital in the
world. It is constructed with great taste, and
has a striking effect as viewed from the sea ; for
immediately on observing the columns of the
temple of Jupiter, you cannot avoid being at
tracted by this building. It will contain two
hundred beds.
We continued our walk in a direction round
the foot of the acropolis, beneath the plane trees
that line each side of the road, and entered the
lower part of the town, by the temple of
Theseus ; passing through the long bazaar which
leads from one end of the town to the other. It
was getting dark, and the bazaar was lighted up,
the effect of which was very pleasing.
May 31. — Understanding that to-day (Sun
day) a tragedy on the subject of Brutus was to
be performed at the theatre, and that there

176 GREEK LIBERTY.
would be a large audience, I attended. The
Greeks are fond of tragedy, and particularly of
those that represent ancient characters and events
connected with liberty. Indeed, unless some
thing of this kind is represented, the theatre is
quite a desert.
A characteristic circumstance connected with
this feeling was related to me by Mr. Orlando,
as having occurred during the war. The inha
bitants of his native place, (Hydra,) of which he
was one of the primates, at one time took it into
their heads that it was necessary to their " hberty"
that they should have no government at all, and
that each person should do exactly as he pleased.
And for a short time the most lawless acts were
committed all over the island. At length, things
got to such a height of anarchy and disorder, that
these advocates of that very condition became
alarmed at the personal consequences of their
doctrines. They, at last, took to barricading
themselves, each in his own house, and the dis
trust among them was universal. This state of
things could not last long. They at length sent
word to the primates that they were ready to
obey their proposed regulations, and a large por
tion of them offered to turn out and patrol the

ROYAL ANNIVERSARY. 177
town, as a guard against the oppressions of
their next door neighbours !
Since that event, the Hydriotes have not been
so eager about "liberty" — about the word, at
least — as they once were.
June 1st, 1836. — To-day is the anniversary of
the birth-day of King Otho, and prayers were
offered up at the cathedral church of St. Irene.
The chanceUor and the foreign ministers were
present, with all the dignitaries of the court :
the Bishop of Athens officiated. The regiment
that was upon duty, with a squadron of cavalry,
afterwards passed in review before General Smaltz.
the Minister of War.
Everything here is in miniature ; but whatever
is done, is performed with all the etiquette and
observance that would be required in a large
state. I met my friend Dr. Rezer, and he pressed me
to be present at the monthly meeting of the
Medical Institution, which was to take place
on this day. I willingly consented, and pro
ceeded there at the appointed hour. I found the
Doctor surrounded by his colleagues in the Escu-
lapian art. The meeting was opened by Dr.
Rezer, who read a Greek discourse. He was fol-
VOL. II. N

178 CHEAP LIVING IN GREECE.
lowed by other professors, who read discourses in
the Latin, German, and French languages. They
then commented upon the transactions of the
preceding month, reported the donations that had
been made, and discussed the propositions that
were offered for the future progress of the Society.
It gave me much pleasure to observe this nucleus
of an institution, so indispensably necessary for the
formation of medical science, and likewise so
calculated to call forth the hidden wealth of the
mineral kingdom of Greece ; — for there is a large
museum attached to the Society.
I dined to-day with two officers of the Port
land, at the Hotel Munich, which is kept by
two German women. Living is very reasonable
in this country. At Madame Cassalis', at the
Hotel Royale, I generally dined in the public
room, a la carte, after the fashion of a good Paris
restaurant. The fixed prices were, for soup
of any kind, twenty-five leptas, and for every
other plat forty leptas, whether game, fish, roast
or boiled, or any made dish. The wine of the
country, — which is better than the common
table-wine of France that you get in Paris, —
cost forty leptas more ; so that my dinner of
four dishes, with wine, never cost me more than

CHEAP LIVING IN GREECE. 179
two drachmas,* (Is. 5d. English.) The cookery
was French, Italian, Greek, or Turkish, accord
ing to the taste of the customer.
Most of the English travellers dine alone in
their rooms, and then the hotel-keepers charge
six drachmas, and the dinner is never better.
At the Public Rooms, I met the officers of the
army and navy, the employes, and the principal
Greeks and Bavarians at Athens — barons, gene
rals, colonels, &c. &c.
To shew how economically a person may live
at Athens, I will here sum up the expenses of my
own housekeeping : — My apartments were 40
drachmas per month ; the servant, on board
wages, 40 ditto ; my dinners, (say) 60 drachmas
per month ; my breakfast and tea, 30 ditto ;
making, in the whole, 170 drachmas a month.
Calculating 28 drachmas to the pound sterling,
this amounts to 61. per month ; — a sufficiently
moderate sum for your own servant and apart
ments, a good French dinner every day, and an
English breakfast and tea.
Bread is only one penny per pound, and the
tea is about four shillings a pound ; this latter
* One hundred leptas go the drachma.
N 2

180 GREEK NEWSPAPERS.
you may get very good at Mr. Brown's En
ghsh warehouse, in Minerva-street, where every
thing English can be obtained on the same terms
as at Malta.
The same evening the foundation-stone of the
Civil Hospital was laid, and I accompanied my
two friends to witness the ceremony. We found
the chancellor there, and the ministers, who
placed the stone in the presence of a nume
rous crowd. The Demarch of Athens then
pronounced a discourse, which was listened to
with great attention and interest : everybody ap
plauded the sentiments of philanthropy expressed
in it. He stated, that in the projected hospital
would be received every sick individual, of what
ever nation or religion.
The day terminated by the town and the Acro
polis being illuminated, and the Countess of
Armansperg gave a baU at her house, which, as
usual, was numerously attended.
This day was made remarkable, also, by the pub
lication of a new Greek paper, called the Courier.
It is a government paper ; and the news given in
it relative to statistics, I found, afterwards, could
be relied upon : it is edited by a Frenchman.
June 2. — This day is the f£te-day of Constan-

. A VISIT. 181
tine and Helen ; and it is the custom in Greece
to visit the individual who bears the same name
as that in honour of which the day is consecrated.
As there are many Constantines and Helens, of
course it is a great visiting day. The name of
my landlady's daughter was Helen, and I took
advantage of the privilege it gave me to pay her
a visit. These visits are always paid early, gene
raUy at ten or eleven o'clock in the morning.
Little Helen, who was about fifteen years of
age, was magnificently decked out with ribbons,
and some natural flowers were placed in her dark-
brown hair ; and she looked quite beautiful. A
great many visitors were in the room, seated
upon chairs ; on my entering, I was placed upon
the sofa, the seat of honour.
The pretty Helen, after the fashion of the
country, presented me with sweatmeats and
water, and then made me a curtsey, and said,
(ei? tw vyeioiv eras-,) " to your health."
I sat out all the visitors, and I should have
stopped still longer, but my little tutor caUed
upon me at twelve o'clock to give me my Greek
lesson. After taking my lesson, I proceeded to observe
the people passing to and fro on their visits ; for

182 ABLUTION.
which purpose my lodging is well situated, as
they all proceed this way to examine the pro
gress of the new palace. I observe that the lover,
and even the husband, does not walk arm in
arm with his betrothed or his wife ; but there are
generally three or four women together, when
they take a walk, and the husband always walks
apart, five or six paces distant, switching about a
small stick in his hand.
I must here reluctantly record, that, except on
f&te days, the lower orders of Greek females,
though exceedingly handsome, generaUy speak
ing, and in many cases perfectly beautiful, are
not seen to the best advantage, as the customs
and habits of the country do not make the act of
ablution an indispensable operation of the daily
toilet. There is, in fact, but too often a dingy
look about the faces of the lower orders of Greek
females, which much impairs their beauty.
I am convinced, however, that it only requires
a little time, and the example of European so
ciety, to make Athens an elysium of beauty, — if
possible, excelling, in that respect, England itself.
Not having visited my friend Bell for some
time, I to-day determined to do so. On my way
to his house, I observed the men and women in

THE HARVEST IN GREECE. 183
the corn-fields reaping. Their manner of doing
this was quite new to me ; they were pulling up
the corn by the roots, instead of cutting it with a
sickle. Having asked them why they did this,
they told me that the drought had been so great
that the stalk had been stunted in its growth,
and that it was too short to cut.
Mr. Bell, who has been a long resident here, told
me to-day, that six years ago not a garden was
to be seen ; whereas now you observe inclosures
to a large extent, and probably, in another two
years the whole plain will be in a state of cul
tivation. The luxuriance in my friend's garden
was not to be surpassed : he has now in it pears,
apricots, nectarines, peaches, figs, &c. The
pomegranate was now in full bloom.
I consented to sleep at Mr. BeU's house, and
the evening was occupied conversing with the
peasants who had been reaping his corn.* They
had collected at his habitation after the toils of
the day, to report the progress they had made,
and to receive fresh orders. They were all very
respectful in their deportment, at the same time
* My readers will observe that it was on the 3rd of June.
They will judge by this of the beauty and luxuriance of the
climate.

184 GREEK HARVEST HOME.
they conversed and joked with an air of perfect
freedom. Some country wine, which Bell or
dered to be brought from his cellar, seemed to
crown the happiness of these people. Perhaps
this wine, (which consisted of two bottles only,)
might have cost about sixpence ; and for this
sum my friend obtained the good will of half a
score of honest peasants, who were content to
do double the work for him the next day in con
sequence. In a country like this, there is nothing
so politic as a little well-timed liberality.
It was arranged that the labourers were all to
repair to the field by half-past four the next
morning ; and, excited by the interest of the
scene, I begged permission of my worthy friend
to accompany him, on the following day, to see
a Grecian harvest.
June 4. — This morning, at the dawn of day,
Guiseppe, BeU's valet, knocked at my door, to
inform me that his master was dressing. On
descending, I found my friend already prepared ;
and having taken a cup of coffee, in order to
stay our appetites, we proceeded to the scene of
action. Wending our way through the olive
grove with which his house is surrounded, we
arrived in the open country ; it was now nearly

GREEK HARVEST HOME. 185
five o'clock, and the cool air which generally
precedes the rising of the sun rustled through
the ripened corn, whose golden and weighty
heads added to and lengthened the graceful un
dulations which spread all over the wide plain.
Nearly all that was in sight belonged to my
friend, Bell, but his men were working at the
further end of the estate. In half an hour we
arrived there ; and I was astonished to find none
of the corn in sheaves. I was informed that, as
the corn was cut, it was immediately carried away
by donkeys. These animals were waiting patiently
for their load, and were in the meantime playing
the parts of gleaners, eating the ears that were
left upon the field by the reapers. As soon as
a sufficient quantity of sheaves had been cut to
load one animal, they were placed on its back,
and carried to a paved spot, about a mile off, in
the direction of the house, and there left till it
was ordered to be threshed out.
There were about a dozen men at work, and
half that number of asses as carriers. Each
man, I found, received three and a half drachmas
a day, and one drachma and a half daily was
paid for the hire of the donkey. The asses,
when loaded, looked like so many small wheat

186 GREEK HARVEST HOME.
stacks, only their heads and long ears being seen
in the fore part, and the tip of the tail switching
about behind. The feet could not be seen at all
as they moved along, so completely were they
enveloped in the load. The following is the man
ner in which they were laden : — two long sheaves
were placed one on each side of the animal length
wise, and were supported by ropes descending from
the packsaddle on the back ; and these acted as
a base for the rest, the other sheaves being piled
up on these edgeways, the tops meeting over the
back of the animal. By this arrangement, each
donkey was able to carry, with the greatest ease,
ten large sheaves. And I observed that (curi
ously enough) the animals when thus laden went
much faster than I had ever seen them do with
out a load !
These good peasants, knowing that Bell had
purposed to pass the day in the fields, had cut
some boughs from the trees that were near at
hand, and, under an olive tree, had erected a
rural harbour for him to repose in when the
heat of the sun rendered this desirable. We
had also taken the precaution to bring with us
two good silk umbrellas, which protected us from
the sun's rays, — a thing which every foreigner

GREEK HARVEST HOME. 187
must do in Greece. The Greeks, however,
thought nothing of the heat ; they appeared
rather to enjoy it, and toiled in the midst of it
manfully. Guiseppe had by nine o'clock prepared for us
a good breakfast, under shelter of the rural tent ;
and this contributed not a little to the enjoyment of
one of the pleasantest days I have spent in Greece.
I learned during breakfast that the crop was an
exceUent one ; for though the drought of the
season had injuriously affected some of the crops,
it had done Bell's no harm, on account of his
corn having been sown early, and consequently
got some height before the drought commenced.
Bell tells me that he shall make twenty-five per
cent, for his money this year. I am delighted to
hear this ; for he is a generous fellow, and his
hospitahty to aU the world is proverbial. The
corn which he was now reaping I found had been
sown early in February. The wheat I observed
was all bearded.
We remained under the tent, observing the
doings of both men and donkeys, until twelve
o'clock, the arrival of which hour was accurately
observed by the labourers, from the position of
the sun, and they dropped their sickles, and

188 MAJOR HAINE.
collected around the rural tent under the olive
tree, leaving the asses at liberty ; who, as though
conscious that all labour had ceased for awhile,
wandered about the field, satisfying their hunger
from the ears that had been dropped. Onions,
bread and cheese, and black olives, composed
the repast of the men ; to which was added, the
wine of the country, which costs about lid. the
quart bottle. After finishing their meal, they
stretched themselves at full length under the
trees that were adjacent, and reposed till two
o'clock, — which is the time allowed to aU hus
bandmen in Greece. They then recommenced
their toil.
I observed that the reapers left the stubble
very long ; and, upon inquiring, I found that this
was intended to answer the purpose of manure
to the soil.
At half-past seven we quitted the field, Bell
and myself on horseback, and the husbandmen
and the donkeys a-head, laden with corn. On
our arrival at BeU's house, we found there Major
Haine, the Commandant de Place of Athens.
The latter gentleman is an old Philhellene, hav
ing been in Greece since 1822. He distinguished
himself much under the brave Captain Hastings,

A DIFFICULT CASE. 189
and, at the demise of the latter officer, Haine
found that he was left his residuary legatee, and
I understand will receive a large sum of money.*
We passed the evening very merrily, talking
over the various events of the war, and Haine
related some excellent anecdotes with much hu
mour. One of these I will here put down. He
said that, in the year 1828, he was governor of
Grabusa, a little fort upon an island adjoining
Candia. He was, in fact, governor, judge, and
everything else. The parents of a Greek girl
came to him one day, and said that their daugh
ter had been taken by the Turks when she was
an infant, and that within the last year they had
contrived to get her back again (she was now
sixteen). The parents and her relatives stated
that the young lady, while among the Turks, had
contracted the habit of wearing trowsers, like the
Turkish ladies. This the Greeks very much
disliked, and they had used every means they
could think of to make her desist from wearing
them ; but to no effect : and they had determined
to have recourse to his excellency's power, to
compel her to take them off. " I was so amused
* This gentleman has since married an Athenian lady, the
niece of Prince Mavrocordato.

190 A DIFFICULT CASE.
with the oddity of the demand," said Haine,
" that I burst out a laughing ; but the parents,
nevertheless, maintained the utmost gravity of
deportment." Haine then asked the young lady
why she would not comply with the wishes of
her parents, and the custom of her country. She
rephed (woman like), that she liked to wear
trowsers, and she would not leave them off.
Haine then had recourse to an expedient which
he thought would rid him of the affair. He said
to the parents, " You apply to me, then, to force
your daughter to leave off her trowsers ?" They
replied, " Yes." — " I wiU agree," said he, " to
make use of the power that I have ; but I have
no authority to depute that power to any one
else ; so I must pull off the young lady's trowsers
myself!" The parents, the girl, and the by
standers, burst out into a laugh, and the young
lady left the court with her trowsers on.
This anecdote, ludicrous as it may seem, is
perfectly characteristic of the simplicity of the
people.* * A somewhat similar evidence of simplicity happened to
me when I was at Maranham. I was residing at the palace
with Lord Cochrane, acting as his aide-de-camp. One day,
while I was talking with Captain Crosbie, the flag captain, in

USURY IN GREECE. 191
The brother of my landlady called upon me
this morning, and told me that he wanted 200
dollars to finish his house, and that he would
give me forty per cent, for it, with ample security,
if I would let him have the money. He said that
he had been to a Jew money-lender that morning,
who had offered to let him have the money at
sixty per cent. I asked this poor man if it was
usual to give forty per cent. He said that thirty
was very common, but that forty was often given
where the party much wanted the money.
My servant having acquainted me that General
Church had returned from the inspection of the
troops on the frontier, I lost no time in paying
the veteran a visit. I found him looking very

one of the apartments, two women presented themselves to
us, one of them saying that her husband had just come
home, and he had put out the fire, and would not let them
cook the dinner ; and nothing would do, but we must inter
fere to bring the gentleman to a reasonable compliance with
his lady's wishes. At last, not knowing how otherwise to
get rid of this foolish affair, we told the steward to arm
himself with a musket, and to escort the young ladies back
again to their house. They went giggling back, and said
that his excellency had sent an officer to protect them.
The poor husband, seeing the steward with a musket, took
to his heels, and his wife was left free to cook her dinner.

192 GREEK FRONTIER.
well, and he , informed me that the country was
now perfectly quiet, and that every body ap
peared desirous of peace. What the General
said was, I know, the wish of all the peasantry
and the landholders ; but there are a certain race
of people, who, possessing nothing, have nothing
to lose, and are ready at all times to foment
disturbance, or to hire themselves to any party
whose interest lies in anarchy.
The general informed me that the north of
Greece was a paradise, and that it only wanted a
few years' repose to make it wealthy in itself and
highly beneficial to the government ; whereas at
the present moment it is miserable in its condi
tion "and a great expense to the state. The
General's plan has always been to employ aU the
old soldiers on the frontier, and to give them
lands there, that a certain number of them may
till the soil, and the other part defend it from
hostile incursions. There are now about two thou
sand troops on the frontiers, principally composed
of the phalanx. The General had the difficult
task of embodying it, of which he acquitted him
self very well. His plan was, not to ask whether
the man was of the Russian, French, or English
party, but merely to ascertain if he had served

A LEFT-HANDED MARRIAGE. 193
his country, and whether his conduct had been
good. By these means he gave universal satis
faction. The ordinance decreeing this phalanx was
issued on the 18th of September, 1835. Both
sailors and soldiers were embodied in it, and
those only were enrolled who had served
during the war. This is an excellent plan of
at once providing for the exigencies of the go
vernment and the wants of those unfortunate men
who have lost their all in the struggle.
This evening, in pursuance of my old habit of
strolling out alone into the " highways and bye-
ways " of the city and suburbs, in search of in
formation and adventure, I fell in with an occur
rence worth relating. In passing through one of
the small streets, my attention was attracted by
the sound of music, and having entered a little
hovel whence it issued, I saw several people of
both sexes, celebrating a marriage, in which I
observed that no garland was employed. Now, the
garland is always placed upon the bride's head,
at a regular and orthodox wedding ; I was there
fore induced to inquire into the circumstances.
They presently explained themselves, however,
as follows : after I had been there a little while,
VOL. II. o

194 A LEFT-HANDED MARRIAGE.
without anybody objecting to my presence, but the
contrary, a man got up, personating the priest,
and addressed the assembled party to the follow
ing effect : — " Here are two young folks who wish
to be married without the garland. What is your
wish and pleasure, ladies and gentlemen ? Have
you any objection thereto ?" Nobody expressed
any ; the only difference of opinion being relative
to the time the marriage should last ! some said
that they should be married for two months, others
only six weeks. Two months were at last de
cided upon ; the rings were placed on the re
spective fingers of the man and woman ; and they
were duly pronounced man and wife for the space
of two months. The music, composed of a fiddle
and guitar, then struck up, and the evening passed
off with mirth and jollity.*
As an instance of the ills which perhaps ne-
* I was mentioning this circumstance the next morning to
a friend, and he informed me that some time since a colony
of three hundred men and women had arrived from Cyprus,
the inhabitants of which being tired of living under the
thraldom of the Turks, had come to Athens, and had de
manded permission to locate themselves in the town. The
kingdom of Greece being free to all the world, the govern
ment could not refuse them admission, but on account of the
moral habits of these modern Cyprians not being precisely

A GREEK PICKPOCKET. 195
cessarily attend the introduction of refinement
into a state, I must here in fairness record, that
on entering the theatre this evening, there being
a considerable crowd, my pocket was picked of
my handkerchief, and a few leptas, which I had
rolled up in a piece of paper ; curiously enough,
the leptas were taken, and the paper left. I re
ported the affair to Mr. Black, the chef de police,
who ordered every search to be made, but in vain.

About this time, the foreign ministers quitted
Athens. The summer had arrived, and with it,
great heat. At this season of the year, everybody
who can afford it repairs to the Piraeus, or to some
one of the islands, — which are always compara
tively cool, being fanned by the sea breezes.
Monsieur and Madame Catachasi went to Egina,
a small pretty island about twenty miles distant ;
Sir E. Lyons and his family went on board H.B.M.
frigate the Portland, and sailed about, visiting the
different islands of the Archipelago. Monsieur
and Madame Lagrenee also embarked on board a
in accordance with those of other well-conducted Greeks,
the government had chosen to take them under its especial
surveillance.
o 2

196 A GREEK PICKPOCKET.
French vessel of war for the same purpose. This
dispersion caused a dearth of society, and a con
sequent dulness in the details of my note-book ;
I shall therefore for the present cease to make
extracts from it.

197

CHAPTER X.
Rev. Mr. Hill's School — Public Schools in Greece —
Pirseus — Probability of its becoming a great Port —
Custom House — Temple of Venus — The Orator at the
Pnyx — Matrimonial Design on the Author.
I had for some time received an invitation to at
tend a public exhibition of the school under the
superintendence of Mr. and Mrs. Hill. The month
of June and the month of December are two
epochs in this establishment, the youngsters ob
taining a respite of two or three weeks from their
labours. There is always some ceremony upon
these occasions ; and invitations are not only sent
to the parents of the children, but also to the
foreign ministers and the heads of the govern
ment. The house appropriated as a school is situated
a little distance from the Temple of the Winds,
and has been recently built under the direction

198 education in Greece.
of the worthy pastor. It is of two stories, and
about one hundred feet long, about fifty in
breadth, and is divided into several com
partments. In the lower part is a very large
room, which is appropriated for the most youth
ful part of the community, (from the age of four to
eight,) and which has benches raised one above
the other, like an amphitheatre, and will con
tain about six hundred.
On my arrival in the court-yard, the school-
bell was tolling, and the little ones were walking
two by two, very orderly, forming a long string ;
at the side of each line were grown-up people, to
keep them from not breaking the line. They all
proceeded to the above-mentioned room for exa
mination, and took their places. I entered with
them, and while they were coUecting I had an
opportunity of observing the room itself. Around
it were suspended pasteboard placards, which had
different axioms written upon them, such as,
"fear God," "honour your parents," "be not
idle," " steal not," " learn your task," and other
moral phrases, such as would forcibly strike the
youthful mind.
Of course, all this was in the modern Greek,
their native language. This simple mode, of keep-

EDUCATION IN GREECE. 199
ing these precepts continually before the eyes of
the youthful congregation, must familiarize them
to the minds of the young people without trouble ;
for every time they raise their eyes to the wall they
must see them ; the lessons must thus become so
impressed upon their mind as to form an essen
tial part of it, whether waking or sleeping, and
must evidently tend to raise up a very moral ge
neration, rich in every virtue.
The little ones had already taken their seats,
and the bell having ceased to ring, intimated to
the visitors, that they might enter. A few mo
ments afterwards came in Sir Edward Lyons, with
Lady Lyons and their family; also, Mr. Griffiths,
who is one of the secretaries of the embassy.
I have heard that the British minister is the only
foreign minister who ever attends these youthful
examinations, and countenances by his presence
so laudable an undertaking. At all events, this
examination had been forwarded, in order that he
might be present at it, previous to his departure
for his summer cruise.
Some of the Greek ministers were there, and a
great many of the parents of the children, and
some of those parents were the notables of Athens.
On commencing the examination, the worthy

200 EDUCATION IN GREECE.
pastor advanced a few paces, and placed himself
in front of the children, and opened the scene by
chanting a hymn, (in Greek,) — the youthful audi
ence following him, opening their mouths as wide
as they could, and having the appearance of young
birds being about to be fed by the parent.
During this operation it was not without diffi
culty that some of the very youthful chanters pre
served the needful decorum : among them was
a fine little fellow, about four years of age, the
son of Vassos, who was dressed like a Greek
Palikari chieftain, with a small sword by his side,
and he was looking at that more than at any
thing else.
The hymn being finished, the next thing in
which they exhibited was a kind of manual exer
cise. The worthy pastor cried out, "right," and they
all, to an urchin, thrust out their right arms ; then
the word " left" having followed, the left arm ap
peared in the same manner ; after which, the
word " vertical" was used, and they all placed
their arms over their heads ; and then " hori
zontal " being uttered, they placed their arms in
that position. Several other words were uttered,
to which they responded in a similar manner.

EDUCATION IN GREECE. 201
Then the phrases on the wall were read, in
which they joined.
After this exhibition, a boy about six years of
age was ordered to step forward, and he was de
sired to read part of a chapter from the Greek
Testament, which he did, much to the satisfaction
of every one present. Then one of the little girls
came forward and did the same, and some sam
ples of needle-work were exhibited, which were
apparently very good. There were about 500 of
the young people, and really it was a delightful
sight to see so many taught the ways of civilized
life, kept from bad habits, from running about
the streets — on the contrary, having good in-
stiUed into them. They all appeared very docile
and attentive, and seemed to venerate their
patrons, Mr. and Mrs. Hill, the conduct of the
latter of whom is above all praise.
To conclude the scene, aU the young people
filed off one by one, and Mrs. Hill, and the two
Misses Mullingen, gave to each, in passing, a small
paper of sweetmeats; thus, by a pleasing associa
tion of ideas, causing them to recollect the event.
There are other rooms for the girls who are
more advanced in education. In these there are

202 ROYAL SCHOLARS.
three grades, in each of which are about five-and-
twenty, and these are attended by the Misses
Mullingen and Miss Baldwin, all young and at
tractive women, who have left their homes in
America to devote themselves, without fee or
reward, to the rising generation of Greece !
There is also another lady who teaches in the
establishment. She is a Candiote, about sixteen
years of age, and very interesting, and appears to
have great influence over the minds of her com
panions whom she was teaching. She is a most
agreeable and fascinating person, and is always
present at Mrs. Hill's conversaziones of an even
ing, and has learnt to speak Enghsh very well.
The above little congregation come early in the
morning, and, with a little intermediate recrea
tion, in a large, spacious court-yard, they return
home about two o'clock, each child generally
bringing a piece of bread in its pocket, to satisfy
the cravings of hunger. There are, however,
twelve orphans, who are brought up entirely in
the establishment, and supported by the king,
and who are educated for teachers, to be sent
into the provinces to manage similar establish
ments ; and they are distinguished from the rest

JEALOUSY OF THE CLERGY. 203
by having a small white crown stamped upon
their red caps, evincing that they are under regal
protection. This establishment was first looked upon by
the Greek clergy with no very favourable eye,
as they affirmed that Mr. Hill wished to convert
his youthful flock from the Greek persuasion to
that of the Catholic faith. But this was a fear
wholly without foundation, for all the under
teachers are grown up people, some formed in
the estabhshment, and others (the men) having
been brought up in the Ionian Islands, and all of
the Greek persuasion ; and in a public establish
ment like the above, such an attempt, coming
from any quarter whatever, would be immediately
detected. The truth is this ; the clergy, I be
lieve, wished to keep the poor people ignorant,
and therefore an outcry was raised ; but the
government upheld Mr. HiU, and the school is
working prodigies.
It has been productive of good in another way;
it has, by the force of example, excited the
Greeks themselves to form similar establishments,
(which otherwise would not have been,) and I may
truly affirm, that there is hardly a child in
Athens above the age of six, who does not know

204 EDUCATION IN GREECE.
how to read, write, and (if a girl) to work with the
needle. In fact, the government have taken under
their particular care the education of the people ;
and from the statistic statements published from
time to time by the government gazette, I observe
that they are making great progress in the esta
blishment of schools in different parts of the king
dom. In Attica there are six public and four pri
vate ; in Laconia, five public and one private ;
in Messenia, five public and one private ; Achaia,
five public and four private ; Acarnania, four
public; Phocis, four public; Eubea, two public;
Cyclades, twenty public and nineteen private.
Independent of all these, there are large schools
at Athens, and in the towns of Napoli and Patras,
which are the three principal points of the king
dom ; and in the primary schools there were, at
that period, 7293 children who were receiving
instruction. There are also schools for the
higher order of learning; but, as may be sup
posed, they are not yet in great requisition. There
is one of this kind at Athens, and also at Napoli,
Missolonghi, and Syra, and the number of
pupils in them amounts to five hundred. My
friend, the Rev. Mr. King, has an establishment
which is of this order, of which I have before

EDUCATION IN GREECE. 205
spoken, and a sufficient proof of what he has
already effected is the fact that Freorites, my
tutor, a most intelligent youth, obtained all his
instruction at this establishment.
The largest government school, both primary
and otherwise, is at Syra ; and on the same
island there is a large establishment under the
superintendence of Mr. Hillner, giving instruction
gratis, the expenses of which are defrayed from
funds coming from Great Britain.
So great a number of schools, and such a large
body of pupils, must necessarily, in a few years,
diffuse universal information throughout Greece,
and tend to regenerate it, by entirely throwing
off habits contracted by centuries of Turkish des
potism. It will no doubt awaken them to a
sense of the obligation which they have already
contracted, by being admitted into the family of
European states ; thereby stimulating them to
exertions which may render them not unworthy
the association, and making them respected at
home and feared abroad; assisting to keep up
the balance of power in the east, and thereby
answering the ends for which they were called
into political existence.
The above establishments are paid, as I have

206 THE PIRAEUS.
said before, from the revenue arising from lands
which formerly belonged to the monasteries.
The pay of the director of a school is 350 drach
mas per month ; the first teacher 200 drachmas per
month ; the second, 100 drachmas ; the music-
master, 180 drachmas. These salaries must be
deemed very liberal, in a country where provisions
are so very cheap.
About the time I am now speaking of, a royal
ordinance appeared, granting the Sciotes land at
the Piraeus, to build their houses upon, and to
form a town. These Sciotes, notwithstanding
their past misfortunes, are considered the weal
thiest and best merchants of Greece. They have
been settled at Syra for some time, but the
government is desirous that they shaU estabUsh
themselves at the Piraeus. This proposed ar
rangement soon became the gossip of the town,
and the eager and enthusiastic Greeks began
already to fancy the Piraeus what it was in
ancient times. While speaking with an Athe
nian upon this subject, an intelligent friend,
named Leonidas, called upon me, and asked me
to accompany him there, to see how the works
for the construction of the mole were going on ;
and I willingly did so. While proceeding thither,

GREEK PROSPECTS. 207
I said to him, " Do you really think, Leonidas,
that the Piraeus will ever become a place of
importance?" He turned round to me eagerly, and expressed
himself as follows : — " In speaking to you, I am
addressing a person who has been some time in
Greece, and who can judge of things from ocular
demonstration. Do you remember what the
Piraeus was when Miaulis entered, in 1827, with
the frigate, and battered down the monastery of
St. Spiridion?"
I rephed, (as was the fact,) that I recollected
there being only the monastery, and not another
house. " Well," said he, " now observe the results
of Greek industry. The Piraeus already contains
a great number of houses ; its streets are pro
perly laid out ; its municipality is organized ; and
there is every hope of its being a place of great
commercial importance. It has lost nothing,"
continued he, " of its geographical position,
which formerly made it the general market of
Greece, and caused the productions of the world
to enter it. You will observe Constantinople and
Smyrna to the east of it ; to the south, Egypt and

208 THE PIRAEUS.
India. It will always be the first town in Greece,
after Athens, on account of its contiguity to that
capital. You observe that the government oc
cupy themselves in draining and filling up the
marshes ; and so soon as funds shall be available
they will proceed in building quays and harbours.
That part," said he, pointing to the right, " will
be a harbour about 250 yards in length, all the
port forming a semi-circle, as you observe, and
which will embrace about 800 paces towards
the new custom-house, — which is, you see, com
pleted ; all this will be a stone pier, and will form
a harbour large enough for 2000 merchant ves
sels." He then shewed me the building mate
rial, on a spot close by, where was found a
quantity of soft stone, of very easy application,
being susceptible of cutting in the same way as
a brick. It appeared to be a sort of pumice-
stone. We then walked to the place where the mo
nastery of St. Spiridion formerly stood. There are
but little remains of it. The government gave
the ruins to the brave Admiral Miaulis ; and with
part of them he has built himself a very fine
habitation at the Piraeus. Most of the houses

PROSPECTS OF GREECE. 209
at the Piraeus belong to Hydriotes, and they are
consequently well built and well painted, — a
thing not observed in the Morea.
" Do you think, Leonidas," said I, " that the
Piraeus wiU in time join itself to the capital,
which is now five miles distant?"
" There is no doubt of it," said he. " You
know not the pride of my countrymen ; their
every hope is to see the capital rival its ancient
splendour ; and although it will not be connected
with walls, as formerly, it will be connected by
country houses on either side of the road that is
already constructed. Cast your eye on that side
where the tomb of Karaiskaki is placed, and
observe the richness of the plain. It is the same
on the other side, bounded only by the pass of
Daphne and the mountains of the Parnese. I
prognosticate," said he, " that Athens and the
Piraeus wiU contain jointly, in twenty years,
100,000 inhabitants."
We then proceeded to the custom-house, — a
very fine large building. This is intended, not
merely for the transit, but the deposit of goods,
until means are found of sending them to other
markets. Relative to the building of the custom-house,
VOL. II. p

210 CURIOUS DISCOVERY OF
I must be allowed to relate a curious circum
stance, which was told me by Pittaky, the archae
ologist of Athens. He said, that about the
month of September, 1834, the government con
structed these transit warehouses, in a place
which was ascertained to be the situation of a
temple of Venus. According to the testimo
nies of ancient authors, this latter building was
constructed by Themistocles, after the battle of
Salamis ; and there has been found on this spot
seven squares of marble (of Mount Hymettus)
covered with inscriptions, arranged in columns
from the top to the bottom. One of these squares
contains six columns, others four, and some three
only. All these inscriptions are relative to the
arsenal of the Athenians, and serve as a catalogue
of the objects which are contained in it. They
commence from the time of Miltiades, whose
name is found in one of the slabs, in the follow
ing words : — KAI TA SKETH  KAN MIATIA-
AHS : SKETH nAPEAABOMEN MIATIAAH2.
They extend also to the time of Themistocles,
whose name is found with the following words : —
AHMOO<PANHS ANAnEKHQEN TnEP TOT TON
©EMI2TOKAH2 4>PEAPIOS AnEAi2KEN.
They also make mention of Cimon, and the

ANTIQUE INSCRIPTIONS. 211
archons and generals his cotemporaries ; and they
terminate at the epoch of Conon, of Chares, and
Phocion. The form of writing varies with the different
epochs. The most ancient — that of the time of
Miltiades, Themistocles and Cimon — is batonnee ;
that is to say, all the letters which compose
the horizontal line, are placed perpendicu
larly under those of the above line; and the
form of the n and of the § is of the most ancient
times. But in the following ages, this manner
of arranging the letters insensibly disappeared,
and one observes the alphabetic characters ap
proach the form of those which were in use at
the time of the Macedonians. These curious
inscriptions have even transmitted to us the
names of the ancient gallies. These names
were always significative. Thus we read, among
others, these — Ewrpenn (magnificent), Xapn (de
Ught), Aohmzols (meteor), Eip*iv*i (peace), <pe/)evix^
(victorious), A^e^nros (blameless), Aprils (Diana),
Aixf*»i (dart), &c.
The first column of one of these slabs, of which
the beginning of the inscription is effaced, con
tains 1 90 lines ; the second column of the same
p2

212 MUSEUM AT ATHENS.
slab, 165; and the third, 102. This slab had
formerly four columns of inscriptions, but the first
is almost entirely effaced : one can hardly make
out three or four letters. The right side of the
slab does not bear any inscription. The reason
of it is, perhaps, that they wrote at the time we
are speaking of upon another slab, or that they
had neglected to keep an exact list of the ma
terials in the arsenal.
We may also observe, that they kept these
materials in two separate places, — at the Piraeus,
and in the fortress : a precaution that was doubt
less taken in case the materials in either place
should be destroyed, either by fire or by some
other casualty, and that they might have others
at hand to supply their loss.
The slabs which I have mentioned above are
in the temple of Theseus, which has been con
verted into a museum, under the direction and
management of Pittaky, who appears absorbed
in these researches. This gentleman has printed
a work upon the antiquities of Athens, which I
strongly recommend, especially to those who are
without the excellent work of Mr. Wordsworth
on the subject, lately published. To this latter,

NAVAL PORTS. 213
by the bye, I am indebted for the verification of
several of my own observations, made when in
Greece. In observing the changes above alluded to, I
could not but admire the industry of these peo
ple, in having done so much in so short a time ;
for I recollect, even only eighteen months since,
that there were not six houses in the whole place —
nothing but a few temporary wooden huts, erected
to deposit the goods that were brought from Na
poli, when the court was moving from the latter
place to Athens.
The Piraeus can never become a naval depot,
but it may be a great commercial one. There is
plenty of depth for vessels of seven or eight hun
dred tons ; and in the middle of the harbour I
have even seen heavy frigates at anchor; the
Greek frigate, Hellas, for instance, which was
a sixty-four-gun ship, and her tonnage 2,400 tons.
The great naval depots must be at Salamine, and
at Poros. The latter is very well situated, and
can be well fortified and protected.
Having traced back our steps to the place
where we had left our horses, we returned towards
the city. The sun had not yet set ; and as we
did not dine till late, we bent our steps towards

214

THE PNYX.

the road which leads to the Acropolis, that we
might observe the sun setting behind the Co
rinthian hiUs. When we had arrived at the spot,
we suddenly heard the voice of some one de
claiming, and, casting our eyes towards the Pnyx,
we were much amused with the gesticulations of
a Greek, who, placing himself on the steps of
the latter place, was holding forth a long ha
rangue, — not to assembled multitudes of the
Athenian people, but to the open air ; and the
only things that responded to his voice were the
adjacent caverns, 'which echoed the words as
they were uttered. The evening was very still,
and although he was nearly half a mile distant,
I could hear perfectly his discourse. This is a
very common thing among the Greeks, to get
into retired places and try their voice. I have
frequently heard them at the Stadium, but this
is the first time that I ever saw any one on the
steps of the Pnyx, — though I know a Greek who
assures me, that whenever he ascends these steps,
he is half inspired with the gift of oratory, and
could speak for an hour together, — if, as he says,
he had but an audience to "hear him!" He
added, that the Acropolis produced a similar
inspiration in him. " I often come up here

MATRIMONIAL PROJECT. 215
alone," he has said to me, " and observe these
ruined columns, that formerly must have been
the admiration of the world, (pointing to the
columns of the Parthenon,) and my soul appears
to become greater in beholding the works of my
ancestors." I mentioned this to my companion, who was
much amused at his countryman's enthusiasm,
but said that it was by no means uncommon
among them, — a fact which promises much for
the regeneration of this interesting people.
Should my friend recognise himself in this
friendly notice of his amor patrice, he will, I
am sure, not be angry at it.
A few days subsequent, an event occurred
which, though personal to myself, I will venture
to relate, as it will give some idea of the people
among whom I had located myself. They wished
to retain me at Athens, by making me a Bene
dict ! I had for some days seen Demetrie in
close conference with the neighbours opposite. I
observed that they took every opportunity of
beckoning Demetrie over to them, and that he
and they were laying their heads together about
something of moment. I took no notice, think
ing it merely the good fellowship of the people, —

216 MATRIMONIAL DESIGN ON
little thinking that I was the object of their
whisperings and consultations. Demetrie, how
ever, had one morning cleared away my break
fast things, and, a few minutes afterwards, he
entered with a message, saying that the brother
of my landlady wished to pay me a visit, if I
was disengaged. I immediately said I should
be glad to see him, and in a few minutes he
made his appearance. After having seated him
self, he thus began : —
" Myself and my neighbours have been for
some days past consulting wholly and solely
about you. We hear from Demetrie that you
will shortly quit Greece for England. You have
been but two months among us in this part of
the town, and we are in hopes that you will
defer your departure, and that you will stay in
Athens. You know our language, and you wiU
be able to serve Greece by remaining in it."
I could not but feel much pleased with the
naive message of these good people, and I re
plied to my neighbour, that I was much dehghted
and flattered with the sentiments they had ex
pressed in my favour ; but that my affairs com
pelled me to return to England almost imme
diately. " But although it is possible," said I,

THE AUTHOR. 217
" that I shall not return to Greece for some
time, I shall always entertain the fondest recol
lections of a country in which I have passed so
much of my time, and passed it so happily."
The last word which I made use of was dexter
ously seized by my visitor, who replied, ' ' We wish
that this happiness should continue, and we wish
to fix it in such a manner that you shall become
one of us. You know," continued he, " the
simplicity of our manners, and we think that no
one can be happy without being married. You
are young, and we should like to see you married
to an Athenian lady. There are many of our
acquaintances young, beautiful, and well brought
up. Make your choice. But if you have any
difficulty on this point, we will determine upon
one for you : her name is Eucharis. Though
poor, she belongs to an honest family."
At these words I was a little startled ; but
recovering myself, I was determined not to cut
short the drama at present, and I therefore
thanked my friend for the consideration he and
his neighbours had for my welfare, but added,
that, in an affair so important as the fixing my
destiny for life, I should like first to see the

218 THE BRIDE ELECT.
young lady they had been so kind as to provide
for me as my future wife.
" (MaXio-ra) — Certainly," replied he, " nothing
can be more reasonable."
" But when shall I see her?" inquired I, — for
I was beginning to be a little anxious for the
sight of the Dulcinea.
"Oh, immediately; open the window, and
look to the next house on the left. She is now
on a visit with her aunt, and she is at the door,
with two of her female friends."
I of course went to the window ; but before
opening it, I observed that my neighbours oppo
site, who were in the secret, had their eyes
directed towards my windows. I opened the
window, and there, sure enough, was Eucharis,
with two of her friends, in deep consultation.
Upon seeing me they aU went in-doors. They
presently returned, however; and I perceived
that the young lady was reaUy extremely hand
some, with features perfectly regular and "Greek,"
and about sixteen years of age. Nor were her
personal attractions impaired by the want of a
little of that naive coquetry which so prettily sets
off a handsome woman.

THE DOWRY. 219
Every now and then she looked up, and I
looked down ; and this pantomimic conversation
of love-making lasted for about a quarter of an
hour. All this time my neighbour was, no
doubt, delighted, — thinking that my protracted
absence evinced that I was half inclined to
accept the proposition. The other neighbours
were also looking through their windows ; but
among the number I did not observe little Helen.
Perhaps she looked upon Eucharis as a rival ;
although she herself was engaged.
Having returned into my room, and closed the
window, my neighbour again attacked me, by
inquiring what I thought of the young lady in
question. I was, of course, lavish in my praises
of her appearance : " But," said I, " matrimony
is a serious state to enter into ; and I should
like to consider a little on a matter upon which
depends so much ;" — and I indirectly hinted
that I should like to know the dowry which the
young lady might bring with her.
He replied, " Eucharis is not rich ; a few
stremata of land, planted with some olives, will
be aU her portion." The idea of the olive-trees
made me think of the Greek fasting upon bread
and olives for forty days, which had just passed.

220

A PEASANT S WEDDING.

Now, although I am not a gastronome, I do not
like feasting upon bread and ohves for so long a
period as forty days. And this idea caused love
to fly out of the window, into which for a moment
before he had made his temporary entry. Besides,
there was another thing (which, however, I did
not mention to my neighbour,) unluckily arose
in my mind: possibly Eucharis might insist
upon being married after the style of the pea
santry, to which she belonged, instead of the
style of the gentry ; — that is, she would not
think herself tied in the indissoluble bonds of
matrimony unless we had two fiddlers to pre
cede us to church, and the bridegroom was
dragged away between two men in their suite ;
she following ; and the train being brought up by
a donkey and a pair of paniers, with the house
hold goods, bedding, &c. &c. All this, as I
said before, flashed across my mind; and the
result was, that although I had no objection to
assist in such an exhibition, as second to any
of my Greek friends, yet I did not like to act as
principal. In order, however, to get out of the
affair with a good grace, I added, that at all
events I must go to England first, and consult
with my friends there.

DISAPPOINTMENT. 221
My worthy neighbour then left me, with all
the gravity in the world, not in the least chagrined
at my deferring the acceptance of his proposition.
I then saw him go over the way, and he was sur
rounded by the inmates, who wished to hear the
news. Demetrie had already heard it, for the door
was open, and the rogue had been listening to
the conversation ; and upon the departure of my
visitor he began to laugh, — which indicated to me
that he had been made the confidant ; and I im
mediately interrogated him; when he confessed
the whole, and that this affair had been in cogi
tation for the last three weeks, and Eucharis had
been sent for express from her residence in the
country ! So that, in point of fact, there really
was a serious intention of attempting to make us
one, — and this without any interested motives
whatever, that I could discover, on the part of
those who originated the plot !

222

CHAPTER XI.
Narrative of a Journey of Five Days in Greece — A Pic-Nic
accompaniment — The Plain of Marathon — The Tumulus
— The Monks' Hospitality — Sheep's Milk and Butter
better than Cow's — The Merits of an Umbrella — The
Original of Tobacco,
A few days ago, I made the acquaintance of an
English and two American gentlemen; the former,
Mr. George Booth, and the latter, Mr. Dorr and
Mr, Curtis. They had travelled, and observed
much, and I found their conversation both pleas
ing and instructive.
About two years previously to my becoming
acquainted with them, they had proceeded from
Paris, through Germany, Moldavia, and Wal
lachia, and had resided some time at Constanti
nople. Thence they went to Bagdad, Smyrna,
Jerusalem, and visited Lady Esther Stanhope.
Thence to Alexandria, Cairo, the Pyramids ; back

PREPARATION FOR A JOURNEY. 223
again to Alexandria ; afterwards to Tunis ; and
now they were residing at Athens.
Their pursuit was knowledge, and the fortunes
which they respectively possessed enabled them
to travel with this sole view.
They wished to see the plains of Marathon,
Port Raphti, and afterwards visit Cape Colonna;
and as I had not yet made that trip, having
been chained down and wedded to Athens ever
since my return to Greece, I begged permission
to accompany them, to which they readily
assented. Our trip having been duly arranged and set
tled, we next proceeded to make preparations for
the journey, and we went to the lower end of the
town to hire horses for that purpose. There were
four wanted for ourselves, one to carry the tent
and the small batterie de cuisine, another to
carry a small valise for each of us, containing our
apparel and toilet, two more to carry our beds,
and another to carry the homme d'affaires who
had accompanied them through the whole of
their journeys in Syria and Egypt. We there
fore had nine horses, for each of which we paid
five drachmas a day. This is the usual price

224 pic nic
when you make a journey of six or seven days ;
for one day only, the charge is generally six
drachmas. Having chosen our horses and the saddles, we
ordered them to repair to the Hotel Royale,
where the above gentlemen were residing, on the
following day, early in the morning.
Our next care then was to order some chickens
and two large seasoned meat pies to be got
ready, to which we added some bread, and a dozen
bottles of small French wine, and six bottles of
brandy. These were to be prepared by Madame
Cassalis, at the Hotel, and to be packed in a
basket. We then proceeded to Mr. Brown's
warehouse, and purchased some black and green
tea, with some coffee and sugar. Previous to
our hiring the horses, we had informed the Rev.
Mr. Hill of our determination, and he proposed
that, as the Monastery of Pentehc was on the
road to Marathon, he would make a pic-nic
repast there with his family.
They were therefore as busy as ourselves, for
they were a large party. I shall now have re
course to my journal, for a sketch of this little
tour.

A CRETAN LADY. 225
Wednesday, July 6th, 1836. — We proceeded
at the appointed hour of half-past eight in the
morning to the house of the worthy pastor, giving
orders to the steward and the agoiates* to go
forward to the monastery, and wait for us there.
The cavalcade consisted, besides Mr. Booth,
Mr. Dorr, Mr. Curtis, and myself, of Mr. Hill, the
two Miss Mullingens, Miss Baldwin, Miss Eliza
beth (the pretty Cretan lady, of whom I have
before made mention), and a Greek gentleman.
In going over the plains of Calandra, we rode
in pairs, and I had the pleasure of being placed
by the side of the Cretan lady, who could speak
Enghsh very well, and her conversation was
highly animated and pleasing. It is in excur
sions like these that the fair sex are imperceptibly
made to exhibit those graces with which nature has
endowed them ; and the same lady that you have
seen the previous evening in the drawing-room
all reserve, becomes now gay, artless, unaffected
— the child of Nature. Such was Elizabeth, and
* In making a journey, each horse has a driver, who
sometimes follows on foot — sometimes on horseback. He
is called an Agoiate. He takes care of the horse in the
evening. He is paid by the master of the animal, and is no
expense to the traveller.
VOL. II. Q

226

A MARBLE PALACE.

while all the world were amusing themselves in
their way, I was amusing myself in mine, by
drawing forth, at this seasonable opportunity, all
the Cretan attractiveness which had so long been
dormant in Mrs. Hill's drawing-room.
In about two hours we arrived at the marble
quarries. It was about two months since I had
visited them ; and what a difference did they
now present ! A road had been cut leading from
Athens to the foot of the hill, and in ascending on
horseback, we heard repeated blasts of the rock.
Upon arriving at the grotto which was in the
first quarry, we found there about two hundred
masons at work, shaping the blocks which had
been detached by blasting. These blocks of
marble were for the front of the palace, and they
were beautifully white. King Otho's palace,
when finished, although not the largest, will cer
tainly be the handsomest in the world, and un
doubtedly the most classical; — classic ground,
classic marble, classic workmen, and, fortunately
for the construction, a highly classic taste in the
direction of it — the King of Bavaria having lent
his earnest assistance in the matter.
The workmen had erected for themselves small
substantial stone huts, in the brushwood, upon

A MISTAKE. 227
the side of the mountain, forming quite a little
colony. The director of the whole was a Ger
man, but the masons were nearly all Greeks.
They earn about three drachmas a day ; which is
very good pay in a country where bread is only
one penny a pound.
The ladies having surveyed the wonders of the
grotto, we proceeded to the Monastery of Pen
telic, where we found that our servants had ar
rived. We breakfasted under the delightful trees that
are in its neighbourhood, and remained there
until two o'clock. Myself and my three male
companions then bade adieu to Mr. Hill and his
family party, to proceed on our journey.
We had been informed that if we crossed the
lower part of the Pentelic, we might arrive at
Braona in four hours, and, on looking on the
map, we observed that a place called Brana was
on the plain of Marathon. The guides wished
us to go to Marousi and Cephissia first, and turn
the mountain to arrive at Marathon ; but we
thought and insisted that they were wrong, and
we decided upon following the bent of our incli
nations. After we had proceeded about an hour,
the paths were becoming a little perplexed,
Q 2

228 THE MONASTERY.
and the guides repeated to us that we were
wrong ; but we persisted, and passed over a
beautifully-wooded country, crossing several
brooks, and passing a farm-house that was on
a hill. We then entered a dell, and there our
troubles commenced, by the animals with the
burdens sticking fast in the bushes. A council
was then called, at which the guides assisted.
We acknowledged ourselves in error ; and the
guides triumphantly told us we must get back
again as quick as we could, before night-fall ; for
should the night overtake us, we should not be
able to extricate ourselves in the dark from the
mazes of the wood. It was now five o'clock,
and there was still nearly three hours' light ; we
therefore retraced our steps to the Monastery,
Pentelic, where we arrived at about eight o'clock,
with a determination to pass the night there.
The steward, who was accustomed to this mode
of travelling, instantly took off the tent from the
animal that bore it, and, with the assistance of
one of the agoiates, erected it in about a quarter
of an hour, at the same time giving instructions
to another to make a fire ; which being arranged,
the tea-kettle was drawn out of the batterie de
cuisine, and in half an hour after our alighting,

LIFE IN A TENT. 229
the ground under the tent was spread with a
table-cloth, upon which were placed a couple of
chickens, a loaf, and a supply of exceUent tea.
The monks of the monastery soon came around
us, and kindly tendered us their aid ; they sent
their servants to the mountains to milk the ewes,
and we were supplied with sheep's milk, which,
in Greece, is beautifully delicate, and the butter
from it far exceeds in flavour, in my opinion,
that which is made from the cow. Indeed, after
being accustomed to the butter made from sheep's
nulk, I found that made from the cow rather dis
agreeable. Thus we were furnished with all the
luxuries of a pastoral life.
The convenience of a tent I would recom
mend to all travellers in Greece. It is so healthy ;
you can stop where you like, and you can breathe
the pure air ; you are also perfectly sheltered from
the dew. AU over the interior of the tent a thin
carpet was laid, and on this was placed our bed
ding. Our tent was fully large enough for four
persons. I would also recommend another thing
to travellers in Greece — always to go, if possible,
in a company of two, three, or four persons ; (the
latter number is quite enough) — first, because you
have society ; secondly, the travelling is only one

230 A TOILET AL FRESCO.
half the expense ; thirdly, you can protect one
another should it be requisite, although I never
heard, in Greece, of any traveUer being mo
lested. After having supped well, we retired to bed ;
and the steward did the same, after having pro
vided provender for the next day, in the shape of
three chickens, which he had purchased for one
drachma each, and had boiled and left them to
cool, to pack up for our dinner the next day.
He then spread outside the tent a piece of can
vas, forming for himself a tent.
July 7th. — Last night was the first time in my
life I had ever slept under a tent ; and the effect
was quite delightful. The coolness of the air,
which is the height of luxury in a hot climate ;
the stillness of the scene, — every now and
then disturbed by the tinkUng of the sheep-bells
that were heard at a distance, — and the mur
muring of the brook — alternately engaging my
attention, and lulling it to repose.
Our homme d'affaires, at half-past four, awoke
us ; cool water was brought us, in little tin basins,
from the running brook ; and these were placed
either upon a large stone, or upon the stump of
a tree, which was our dressing table ; and at-

GREEK VILLAS. 231
tached to each was a small mirror, about six
inches square. While we were performing our
toilet, the tent was struck and packed, and the
breakfast prepared ; the ewes again furnishing
us with the milk, which, with coffee, toast and a
chicken, formed our breakfast. In travelling,
(whether in Greece or elsewhere,) you should be
always civil to your guides — that is, the men who
take care of the horses. It is well to give them
part of your repast ; it makes them very obliging ;
and you have to depend much upon them ; for if
you live in your tent, they conduct you to good
spots for stopping at, — which is everything.
They assisted in the present instance, and by
six o'clock everything was packed : we mounted
our horses, and were moving along at the rate of
four miles an hour; the agoiates in our rear,
driving along the horses that were laden.
We left Pentelic, and in an hour's time
arrived at the pretty village of Marousi. This
may contain about a hundred houses, all prettily
built, principaUy by the rich Athenians, who pass
the summer here. All around are the fig, the
mulberry, and the olive ; and the vine is planted
to a great extent. Having quitted the village, we

232 MERITS OF
still passed through the same kind of delightful
scenery, till we arrived at Cephissia, so named
from the river Cephissus, which runs near it. If
possible, this spot is more enchanting than
Marousi. It is somewhat larger, and the houses
are more spacious. The foreign ministers
and their families sometimes reside here in the
summer time. The fig-trees, with which it
abounds, add much to the freshness and beauty
of this spot.
Having left this pretty village, we soon com
menced turning the Pentelic mountain, and,
passing along a wide path conducting us through
clumps of the arbutus and the fir, we began
to lose sight of Athens. It was now about ten
o'clock, and the sun was getting warm, and I
found it indispensably requisite to make use of
my umbrella, under the shade of which I enjoyed
the scene around.
I call to mind, even in England, the luxury of
a shady tree, on an open common, in a hot day
of July. What, then, was it in the latitude of
38° ? How delightful is it to rechne beneath a
spreading oak, gazing on the sunshine outside,
and admiring the beauty of its rich effects on the

AN UMBRELLA. 233
landscape around ! But to emerge into its burn
ing rays, is another matter altogether ; and what
before gave one so much pleasure, now becomes
insupportable. At the moment in question,
under the shade of my trusty umbrella, I enjoyed
the whole scene. I observed the mountains, the
foliage of the trees, the beauty of the sky ; I
could admire anything and everything. The
Attic sun, the most brilhant that can possibly be
conceived, animated and called everything into
life, — and by the assistance of my umbrella I en
joyed all this. In fact, I cannot help feeling
that I owe the preservation of my health to my
umbrella ; for without it I am sure that I could
not have supported the heat. Moreover, instead
of hurrying through a beautiful glen, on account
of the oppressive heat, — instead of passing any
thing quickly, that might draw my attention on
the road, — I stopped quietly with my umbrella,
and observed the object as long and deliberately
as needful. This simple appendage of my house
hold goods had become my guardian genius : it
preserved my health, and doubled my pleasure in
enjoying the scenery of this beautiful country, —
the mountains and valleys of which teem with

234 PLAIN OF MARATHON.
everything that is attractive to the eye, and
agreeable to the recollection and imagination.*
After we had turned the Pentelic range, we
got into the mountains at the back, abounding
with lofty firs, the path of which was very good.
After an hour's ride we came to the summit, and
in the plain below we beheld the famous
Marathon. We stopped a quarter of an hour to
observe the beauty of the scenery, and to give
rest to our horses ; for the ascent is very steep.
We then commenced descending. On account
* My readers may perhaps think that I am dwelling too
much on this theme of the umbrella ; but the traveller in
Greece, who may read these pages, and who may be induced
to provide himself with an umbrella in consequence, as a part
of his travelling necessities, will daily thank me for it. In
fact, I cannot too strongly impress upon the mind of the
traveller recently transported from the northern climes, the
danger of exposing himself to the direct rays of the sun, in
a latitude of 38°, from about the middle of June till the
middle of September. The illness of nine Europeans out of
ten who arrive in Greece originates in this way. They
come to the latter country in the month of June, and go
about the same as if they were in England ; and the conse
quences are obvious. I never had an illness in Greece, but
by reason of the heat of the sun ; and as soon as I began to
use my umbrella, I was as well in Greece as I am iu Eng
land.

TUMULUS. 235
of the rapidity of the descent, the road winds
very much, increasing the distance more than
double. About half way down, the lofty firs
concealed the sun from our view, and we rode
through this delightful grove for at least half an
hour. We soon reached the plain, and by one o'clock
arrived at Brana, having travelled for nearly four
hours through a scorching sun, without the least
inconvenience. Brana is to the right of the
plain of Marathon, situated upon a gentle ascent,
and is a halting place for the traveller. There is
a smaU monastery, in which are a few monks,
and where you may find refreshments of every
kind that a rural village can supply. At the
entrance of the monastery, a marble fountain has
been erected, the water of which is supplied from
the mountains at the back. It rushes down in a
torrent, and the overflowing water is led by a
large wooden trough, falling down a precipice,
bubbUng and foaming into the valley below.
While the servants were preparing our dinner,
we mounted our horses, and rode to the tumulus
on the plain, about two miles distant. We ob
served that a great excavation had been made in
this tumulus, and that it had not been subse-

236 A DINNER AL FRESCO.
quently filled up again, thereby disfiguring this
curious object. It is a pity that such things
should be allowed. We rode our horses to the
summit of the tumulus, which is about thirty
feet high, and remained there for half an hour.
We then retraced our steps across the plain to the
monastery. The plain itself is here and there
cultivated, but the major part of it is covered
with thistles. The soil, however, is very rich,
and might be made highly productive.
On our return to the monastery, we found our
repast prepared under a large fig-tree that was in
the court-yard, and there we dined.
On account of the long journey we had made,
we remained here, to give rest to the animals,
until four o'clock. In the meantime, the monks
shewed us over their domains, and took us to
view a smaU church situated upon a hill, about
two hundred yards distant. The interior of it
was similar to all the Greek country churches ;
a few pictures on the walls, and, close to the
altar, a small glass full of oil, in which was
placed a burning wick. Having seen one church
in Greece, you see the whole.
The ground round about was well cultivated
with vines, the mulberry, the olive, and culinary

BOTANY. 237
plants. Some of the latter we partook of at our
dinner. At four o'clock we mounted our horses, and
skirted the plain ; arriving at the sea-coast. We
then struck into the path which led to Braona.
The country through which we were passing was
very beautiful. Clusters of the arbutus and
other evergreens grew in large masses, as though
they had been trained by the hand of man, and
gave the idea of a vast pleasure-ground, or a
park. Here and there were lofty planes and oaks,
and other trees, the genus of which were ex
plained to me by Mr. Booth. The latter gentle
man has been long resident in Germany, and had
contracted the German habit of having some par
ticular scientific pursuit. In his case this was
botany. He expatiated upon the trunk, the
branch, the leaf, of every tree or plant, describ
ing their difference, and did it in so simple and
easy a manner, without the affectation of a
pedant, that his remarks were very gratifying.
There are three pursuits which tend much to
the amusement of a traveller — viz., botany,
mineralogy, and sketching; and a sufficient

238 A SUPPER IN
knowledge of each, for all purposes of amuse
ment, may be obtained in a very short period.
Our road was about half-a-mile from the sea on
our left, with the mountains on our right. After
three hours travelling, (which never accom
plishes more than four miles and a half an hour,)
night overtook us, and we were still two hours'
ride from Braona. The guides, therefore, recom
mended us to stop, for the road was very intri
cate. To this we consented ; and they thereupon
conducted us to a rivulet, a little out of the road,
where we pitched our tent.
The tops of the mountains rose all around us,
and we appeared encircled by them. We all
occupied ourselves in preparations ; and a fire
being the first desideratum, while the tent was
being pitched, we broke the dead branches off
the trees and shrubs, and soon had a blazing
one. A fire is the most cheering thing ima
ginable in such a situation, even in summer
time. The hght that is given by it extends to
but a few paces around you, and the darkness in
the distance appears like a boundary and a screen,
which you must not approach ; and the wildness
of the scenery, with the romance attending it,
are much increased by this effect.

THE MOUNTAINS. 239
Romance, however, is nothing without the
addition of the gifts of Ceres and Bacchus.
Our repast was soon placed before us, consisting
of toast and tea, and milk supplied by a neigh
bouring goatherd, who, seeing our fire, was
attracted by the sight, and milked his ewes for
us. The steward, while at Brana, had taken the
precaution to supply himself with some chickens,
one of which was also added to our repast.
There is nothing like a cup of tea to a travel
ler. It is the greatest comfort in the world.
Whatever other luxury you may possess, you
still find something is wanting, if tea is not upon
the board ; and, on the other hand, if you have
tea and dry bread you are satisfied.
After we had finished our repast, my compa
nions amused themselves smoking their tcha-
boucks, in which pleasure I could not join, ex
cept in so far as it is always pleasant to me to see
others make themselves happy ; and I am not
annoyed by being in the company of smokers.
I am assured, however, by those who do smoke,
that it is a great comfort to the traveller, under
all circumstances. In discoursing upon it with
my companions, their praises of tobacco recalled
to my mind a story, something in the Arabian

240 ORIGIN OF TOBACCO.
Nights' style, which my tutor, Freorites, one day
recounted to me, in Greek, merely as a lesson ;
and I related it to my fellow-travellers.
Here it is, for the edification of those (if any)
who may hereafter honour my journal with a
perusal : —
In times of old, before man had made use of
the herb tobacco, there was a Persian and his
wife, who were excessively attached to one ano
ther ; so much so, that when the good man went
to work in the fields (for he was a peasant) his
wife always acccompanied him. Through some
unfortunate accident, the wife died, and the hus
band was inconsolable. Having buried his be
loved, he erected a very handsome monument to
her memory, and was wont to go every day to
mourn over her tomb ; for he found solace in the
utterance of his grief.
One day, while he was, as usual, at the tomb,
he observed a plant emerging from the earth
where his wife was buried. Struck by it, an idea
came across his mind that this plant was sent by
his departed wife, for him to cherish. He there
fore fostered it, and it soon grew to be very
large. After some time, he reported the occur
rence to a dervise who resided in a neighbouring

ORIGIN OF TOBACCO. 241
village, and asked his advice. The dervise upon
hearing it, pondered some time, and then told him
to return next day. The dervise then informed
him, that, having put up prayers, he had been in
structed in the night, by a vision, that the said
plant was sent for his use and consolation, under
his affliction for the loss of his beloved wife ;
and that he must take the leaves and dry them,
and roll them up in the shape of a hollow tube,
and that, whenever grief came over him for the
loss of his departed, he was to take one of these
tubes, light it at one end, and place the other
end in his mouth ; and that he must inhale the
smoke arising from the leaves, which was no
other than the spiritual essence of his departed
wife. The fame of this circumstance spread abroad,
and numbers came round the poor man, to hear
of this phenomenon. They who were placed in a
similar situation entreated the good man to give
them a few leaves, and they found, or fancied,
that it equally imparted a solace to their cares
and difficulties.
The leaves of one plant not sufficing for the
increased demand, the peasant planted the seeds,
and raised a large field, and many more in the
VOL. II. R

242 NIGHTINGALES.
process of time ; and in a few years, by disposing
of these balms of Gilead, he became one of the
most wealthy men of Persia, and the sultan gave
him a province to rule over.
Thus we passed away the evening. The only
bird that we heard was the nightingale, with
which Greece abounds ; and these birds, in the
neighbouring trees, continued their songs until
long after we had retired to rest.

243

CHAPTER XII.
Kalybia — A Stratagem — The English in Greece — Braona—
Port Raphti — Colossal Statue — Kerratia — Laurentium —
Cape Sunium — Sea Nymphs — Olympia — Village Greet
ing — Return to Athens.
July 8. — By five o'clock this morning we were
up, our tent struck and packed, and, having
finished our toilet, we partook of our breakfast.
All was finished by six, and we mounted our
horses. We were surrounded (as I described yes
terday) by an amphitheatre of small mountains
covered with trees, and the valley in which they
were situated could not have been more than two
hundred yards across. We now emerged from it,
and regained the high road, continuing our route,
and in an hour we arrived at Kalybia, a village
composed of half a dozen houses.
On reaching this village, we had recourse to a
stratagem, to get rid of an annoyance which, in
r 2

244 A STRATAGEM.
Greece, is a real evil, and which is as follows ; —
On the arrival of a Frank* traveller fn a village,
all the shepherds' dogs of the place assail and
attack him, and he is obliged to use his whip
to keep them off, until his guides have come up
to drive them away. We had been repeatedly
treated in this uncivil manner by the canine por
tion of the population, and we hit upon the fol
lowing expedient to avoid it : — About a quarter of
a mile from the village, we alighted, and took
some stones in our hands, and some more in
our pockets ; and then remounted our horses,
and entered the village, closely following one
another in a line. Three or four dogs, as usual,
came out to bait us ; we took no notice of them
until they almost touched our horses' heels ; but,
on a given signal, we gave them a volley with our
stone shot, and never did a stratagem succeed
better. The stones all told upon their hides ;
they instantly stopped ; the yelp of defiance was
quickly changed into one of lamentation ; they
put their long tails between their legs, and ran
away as fast as they could. We followed up our
victory in the most gaUant manner, the enemy
* Anybody is termed a Frank who is dressed like the
people in Western Europe.

THE ENGLISH IN GREECE. 245
retreating, and we in full chase, pelting them in
the rear with the contents of our pockets ; and
in this manner the hunt continued for more than
half a mile, until at last the flying enemy were so
frightened that they had not time to yelp, but
ran before us as silently as if they had been a
parcel of hares.
This ludicrous scene brought forth all the vil
lage to stare at us, and they asked the guides
who we were. The guides told them that we
were English " Milords," and upon our return
every hat in the village was off, — such is the
respect they bear to the English name. I have
heard it stated as a fact by travellers, and also
by Greeks, that the peasantry in the north of
Greece accustom their children to cry when they
see a Frank ; but if the word " Inglezi " is men
tioned, the little squalling infant will instantly dry
up its tears, and come round and caress the
stranger. This, at all events, speaks well for some of our
countrymen ; for the idea of a nation is always
formed from individual specimens of it.
After having stopped a few minutes with these
villagers, and our guides having drawn some
water from a well on the side of the road, and

246 BRAONA.
filled a trough, which is purposely placed for the
use of travellers, and with which we refreshed
our horses after the chase, we continued our
route, with a determination to use the same stra
tagem at every viUage ; which, in fact, we did, and
found it perfectly effective.
We passed through the same park-scenery as
that of yesterday ; and upon a hUl about a quarter
of a mUe to the left of us, which had no brush
wood upon it, we observed a fine large stag, with
branching antlers. This was the first animal of
the kind we had yet seen, but I hear that the
mountains in the interior abound with them. He
had placed himself upon this eminence to observe
us, and we paid him the like compliment in re
turn. We then directed our steps towards the
spot where he was standing ; upon observing
which, he darted down the hiU, and made to
wards the sea-coast.
Returning to our route, we continued coasting
the sea, at about half a mile distant from it, and
arrived at Braona, a village of about twelve
houses. This was the village that we should
have made, had we got through the defiles of
Pentelicus, on the first day.
We stopped at the village only a few minutes,

PORT RAPHTI. 247
to refresh our horses with water from the well in
the road, to which there is always attached a
leathern bucket. We then continued our route,
and, wishing to see Port Raphti, we branched off,
to arrive at it by a short cut, giving directions to
the servants to conduct the baggage to Kerratia,
which was the proposed halting place. After
having struck out of our path some time, to
wards the sea-coast, we met with a shepherd's
boy, tending a large flock of goats and sheep,
and, as I spoke Greek, he was easily persuaded,
for the consideration of a drachma, to accompany
us until we arrived within sight of Port Raphti,
about an hour and a half distant.
He led us over hill and dale, through some of
the most beautiful and romantic scenery ; and we
passed by a church, which must have been, for
merly, a very large building. On the road he
saw a companion goatherd, to whom he whistled
and halloed, and, when he came up, requested
him to look after his flock while he was away,
telhng him, that he should be absent about an
hour with " the effendis," as he called us.
After an hour's travelling we arrived at the
summit of a hill, and the goatherd having shewn
Port Raphti to us, in the plain below, he very

248 COLOSSAL STATUE.
respectfuUy put his hand to his breast, and said,
(fAia Spaxr"),) " a drachma" — to which appeal we
immediately attended, and he went off at full speed
back, for he said he was afraid that he might
lose part of his flock.
The descent from this mountain was very
rough, and we were obhged to dismount, and
make our horses jump and glide down the clefts
and declivities. In half an hour, however, we
arrived safe in the plain below, which was one
immense vineyard. We proceeded to the beach,
and found some caiques in the bay.
The Port is very spacious, and is as large as
the Piraeus, and in ancient times it was a very
busy and commercial town.
There is an island at the entrance of the Port,
with the colossal statue of a man upon it. We
stopped half an hour to observe this scene, and
then proceeded through large vineyards to get
into the main road again ; and, as we were with
out the guides, my Greek was again of use in
ascertaining of the peasantry the right road. The
plain through which we were now passing was
highly cultivated : all kinds of vegetables were
growing, — the gourd, the melon, the cabbage,
the potatoe, the pea, &c. ; and several white

KERRATIA. 249
country seats were here and there interspersed,
giving a beautiful effect to the scenery. We over
took our baggage one hour from Kerratia, at
which latter place we arrived at about one
o'clock. Kerratia belongs to the government, and is the
prettiest village I have yet seen ; and upon the
arrival of the cavalcade, all the town came out,
both male and female, to look at us. "Effendi
Inglezi" was whispered through the various
groupes, and every one was eager to welcome us
into their abode. We entered one house, and
then another ; some were too small, some pre
sented other inconveniences, and, finally, we de
cided upon bivouacking in the open air, upon a
green attached to the village, under the shade of
some wide-spreading fig-trees. The inhabitants
of the vUlage clustered around us, and our arrival
was quite a gala for the people of the town, who
visited us while we were at dinner. This place
is often frequented by the king, — so, at least, the
villagers informed me, — and this circumstance
may account for the cleanliness and thriving
state of the viUage.
After our repast, while drinking our coffee,
there was a dispute among the agoiates, re-

250 LAURENTIUM.
lative to the road to Sunium, from which place
we were distant about five hours ; we therefore
engaged a man of the village, who knew every
inch of the ground, and he was to remain in our
service, at the rate of five drachmas a day, so long-
as we had occasion for him. He was a man
about sixty years of age, stout, hale, and very
active. It was proposed by him that we should
sleep at a place about three hours distant, where
there was a weU and a goatherd; for at Sunium,
he said, we should find neither man nor water;
which latter is always indispensable in an encamp
ment. We waited till four o'clock under the foliage
of the fig-trees, and then departed. We com
menced ascending the Laurium mountain, which
had upon it the scoriae of the silver mines that
were formerly worked by the Athenians. We
passed through groves of pine-trees, which were
scattered, also, over the mountains and in the
valleys ; and when we had reached the top, which
is called Laurentium, we looked down, and ob
served the sun setting most beautifuUy, in the
direction of the Corinthian Gulph. After another
hour's riding, we arrived at the well above-

CAPE SUNIUM. 251
named, when the agoiates whistled and halloed,
and the goatherds responded, and moved their
flocks towards us, which we could ascertain by
the approach of the tinkling bells.
The place we had chosen was a very good one
for our purpose — a httle sheltered under the
brow of the hUl ; for we had fixed on that situa
tion on account of the wind being very high.
Our tent was soon arranged, and our fire lighted.
In the meantime, the goatherd, a rough-looking
man, dressed in goat-skin from top to toe, like
Robinson Crusoe, made his appearance, bringing
a large leathern bag full of milk, and another
which contained yaourti, a kind of curd. The
latter we mixed with sugar, and found it excel
lent. In Athens, it is always to be had from the
month of March till July, and is generaUy served
up with the pastry.
Having finished our repast, and my companions
having taken their tchaboucks, we spoke with the
goatherd relative to our journey. He said that
Cape Sunium was about two miles distant, and that
if we rose to-morrow morning at six, we should
arrive there by eight o'clock. He counselled us
not to take all our baggage-horses with us, " for,"

252 CAPE SUNIUM.
continued he, " you must return here, whichever
way you go — whether to Barri or back again
to Kerratia — for there is no road along the beach."
He added, that many of our countrymen —
" Inglezi Effendi" — came that way, at the same
time putting his hand to his breast, as a token of
respect to the nation, the individuals of which
he was addressing.
We then retired to rest in this desert place,
amongst the goatherds and their flocks, the
tinkling of the bells assisting in lulling us to
sleep. July 9th, 1836. — This morning, after a sound
repose, we mounted our horses at six, merely
taking with us the guide whom we had hired
at Kerratia. We placed him on one of the
horses, and gave into his keeping a leathern bag
full of water, and a bottle of brandy ; for at
Cape Sunium the weary traveller cannot even find
water to slake his thirst.
Between the habitations of these goatherds,
and the promontory of Sunium, there are no
houses of any kind. On approaching the cape,
we proceeded over two hills, abounding with
evidences which induce me to think that the

CAPE SUNIUM. 253
mineralogist would not find his time thrown
away in carefully examining this spot.
At last, the celebrated temple broke upon our
view, as we reached the summit of a little hill.
We quickened the pace of our horses, and soon
arrived at it, and we examined eagerly and care
fuUy the remaining columns, which are of white
marble. There are twelve columns and one
arch remaining, — all of which are in a good state
of preservation. We sat ourselves down upon
the cool marble slabs, under the shade of the
columns, and enjoyed the luxury of the view of
the Egean sea, embracing numerous islands in
the glance. The Portland frigate was about ten
mUes distant, beating up under a very light
breeze, as though it was the intention of the
persons on board to land. Sir Edmund and
Lady Lyons and his family were in the vessel ;
and I subsequently heard from them that they
landed in the afternoon. We stopped near the
temple for about an hour, in the hope that the
wind would freshen, and that the Portland would
arrive quickly ; but our patience being at length
exhausted, we descended to the foot of the cape,
almost under the temple. The bluff rocks are
washed by the sea; and around are numerous

254 SEA NYMPHS.
grottoes and caverns, in the olden time the fa
voured habitation of the sea nymphs.
Thinking, with Owen Glendower, that we might
at all events " call" these " spirits from the vasty
deep," we did so, and in the very tongue which
they were accustomed to hear twenty centuries
ago ; but, as in the case of the iUustrious moun
taineer above named, they did not " come when
we did call them ;" so, as the mountain would
not come to Mahomet, Mahomet went to the
mountain : in more homely terms, we doffed our
attire, and bathed in the inviting wave ; taking
the necessary precaution of dipping our hand
kerchiefs in the salt water, and fastening them
round our heads, to protect them from the sun
while bathing ; without which the bather would
run the hazard of a coup de soleil.*
Having stayed as long as we desired at the

* At a subsequent period, I was narrating my trip to this
spot to Andrea Miaulis, the grandson of Admiral Miaulis,
and he told me that, during the war, himself and two of his
uncles, and a son of Conduriotti's, were proceeding to Syra,
and, as the air was light, they landed to visit the temple of
Minerva. Upon their debarking they were immediately
surrounded by armed men, (Greek robbers,) who seized
them, and, knowing who they were, told them they should

OLYMPIA. 255
foot of the promontory, we mounted our horses
and returned to the well where we had left our
baggage ; where we arrived at eleven o'clock.
We stopped at the well until one o'clock, under
the tent ; and as we knew that we should not
halt again before we reached Barri, which would
require six hours' march, we prudently took our
dinner before departing. We now proceeded
through a weU-wooded, and in some parts highly
fertile country, and, without meeting with any
thing remarkable on the route, (nothing but hill
and dale covered with oaks and evergreens,) we
arrived at three o'clock at Olympia, a pretty
village a little out of the road. We merely
stopped at the well on the road ; and having
filled the trough from the leathern bucket, we
refreshed our horses for a few minutes, and then
continued our route.
We were now entering upon the plain, which
conducted us to Barri. Great patches of this
plain were in cultivation, with farm houses at-
not depart unless they paid as ransom the sum of 50,000
piastres (the piastre 3l<"7.) After some altercation, the sum
was reduced to 40,000, and they were obliged to send to
Hydra, and pay this ransom, before they were permitted to
depart.

256 VILLAGE GREETING,
tached to them. This was the most agreeable
part of our whole journey ; the road winded
through clumps of evergreens, and every five
minutes a new view presented itself. This spot
is certainly very desirable, and well worthy the
attention of the agriculturist. The land is highly
fertile, and well watered by different brooks,
which descend from the adjacent hills ; and it is
only three hours' ride from Athens.
Anxious to reach Barri, we had preceded our
baggage, and at six o'clock the above village
presented itself to our view, about two miles
distant, and we pushed on our horses and soon
reached it, — assailed, as usual, by the village
dogs, whom we got rid of, as before, by our
stone artillery.
This village is composed of five or six farm
houses, in a very good state of preservation, and
upon my arrival I found the servant of Soteri
ades, who had been sent here to the farm on a
mission. This insured us a good reception, and
all the villagers, great and small, both men and
women, turned out to wait upon the English
effendis. The viUagers were extremely civil ;
and upon the arrival of the baggage, the tent
was most expeditiously pitched, and a fire was

SALT PITS. 257
made in one of the cottages, to boil our
kettle. By the bye, just before entering the village,
we observed several tumuli, which had been
excavated, and we entered some of them. One
was so large that we made one horse enter
with us.
Eggs, mUk, yaourte, the usual luxuries of a
pastoral hfe, were brought to us by the villagers,
and some very sweet pears that were grown in
an adjoining orchard. With these, and tea and
toast, and two chickens, we contrived to sup
luxuriously. As we preferred remaining in the
open air, a fire was made, around which we col
lected ; and the villagers joined our party, sitting
cross-legged. They informed us that the farm
belonged to a monastery, and that they were
very well treated by their masters. The corn
had been all reaped and stacked, but the vintage
had not yet commenced, the latter end of August
being the time for that. Near to this viUage are
some government salt-pits, which yield a very
good revenue.
We retired to rest under the tent, and the
villagers departed to their cottages ; but we had
foolishly placed our tent upon a spot which had
vol. n. s

258 THE ACROPOLIS.
been used as a sheepfold ; and in the middle of
the night I felt something nibbling at the calf
of my leg, which, on examination, I found to be
an immense sheep-tick, that was taking his sup
per at my expense ; and he had already proceeded
so far in helping himself to this (I suppose) most
palatable part of the human person, that he
could not be persuaded to leave his hold but at
the cost of his life, — a tolerably dear supper.
July 10, 1836. — This morning (Sunday) we
arose at five o'clock, and having finished our
breakfast we pursued our journey homeward.
Upon turning Mount Hymettus, Athens pre
sented itself to our view. To appreciate the
view of the Acropolis, one must be absent from
the sight of it for a few days. It then appears
like the face of an old friend, and the venerable
relic steals more and more upon the imagination,
as often as the acquaintance is renewed.
In one hour we reached Trakones, the seat of
Mr. Luriotti,* whom I have before mentioned as
one of the Greek deputies in England.
* The long residence of this gentleman in England has
enabled him to become acquainted with our habits and
institutions ; and the ideas arising from them he has taken
with him to Greece, and still cherishes. It is to be hoped

RETURN TO ATHENS. 259
Carar, the habitation of Mr. Bracebridge, was
now on our right, about a mile and a half from
the high road to Athens ; but we had not time to
spare for a visit to that gentleman, as we wished
to be in time for divine service at the Rev. Mr.
Hill's. We accordingly arrived in Athens at
about half-past nine o'clock ; and thus concluded
one of the pleasantest excursions I ever remember
to have made in Greece, or any other country.
that, some day or other, he will possess power to assist in
forming similar ones for Greece, — for a constitutional mo
narchy is the best form of government that can be devised
for that country, and the only one that suits the genius of
that people. The lively Greek possesses the same sentiments
as his forefathers, and would therefore never encourage des
potism ; while, on the other hand, the salutary checks arising
from the machinery of a constitutional monarchy will temper
and moderate the wildness and extravagance of idea gene
rally accompanying a sudden emerging from a semi-bar
barous state.

s 2

260

CHAPTER XIII.
Greek Landowners — Their Titles — Register of Estates —
Turkish Gallantry — Greek Husbandry — Curious Modes
of threshing Corn — A Turkish Bath — Coals and Coal
Mines in Greece.
Shortly after my return from the little tour
described in the last chapter, I had a long and
interesting conversation one evening, at the house
of General Church, with Mostra, his secretary,
who, from his post, is well conversant with all
the primates of the kingdom, has seen a great
deal of service, and whose opinions may be con
fided in : I shall, therefore, here refer to them
somewhat in detail.
I originated the conversation by telling him
I had heard that the government had issued
an order that all estates were to be registered,
and I should like to know whether such was
the case. He said that it was ; and he then
proceeded to inform me, that the principal land
owners of the Morea are, Zaimis, Londos,

GREEK LANDHOLDERS. 261
Andropolos, Benzilos Kouffos, Colocotroni, De-
liani, &c. They have vast tracts of land in dif
ferent parts of the Morea, and all their titles are
good ; and they are most anxious to borrow
money at a moderate rate, to bring into cultiva
tion their property. The remainder of the land
in private hands belongs to smaUer proprietors;
and of one-half of these the titles will be found
good, so soon as they are registered. The other
half, he considered, must be dealt with in the
foUowing manner : — The holders should be com
pelled to register their estates, and then advertize
them for three years : if at the end of that time no
claimant comes forward and establishes his claim,
then the individual holding his estate by prescrip
tion, and not by deed, shall be the lawful possessor
of such estate, and aU future claimants shall be
barred, and a title-deed ought to be given to him
to that effect by the government.
If during this period of three years' probation
the possessor should ask for money to till his land,
then his neighbours, who have good estates by
deed, shall become surety for him to the amount
of the money borrowed, until he gets possession
of the estate by the lapse of the three years, and

262 THE TURKISH MINISTER.
then the money shall be attached to the estate as
a mortgage. Mostra knew that I was going to England, and
he begged of me to state matters clearly to the
people in England, if I should have an opportu
nity. " Yours is the only country that can assist
us," said he, " and pray do what you can to that
end : Greece looks to England and Enghshmen
to put her iii motion." I promised Mostra I
would, and I have fulfilled my promise in these
my "Wanderings." The opinion of this gentle
man I set much value on, for he is intimate and
closely allied with all the landed proprietors, and
knows well their wants.
The conversation might have lasted longer, but
for the arrival of the Turkish minister and his
suite, who had come to visit the general and his
lady. His Excellency has been in Athens about three
months, and he is charged with the arrangement
of the Turkish estates in Negropont, and, under
his protection, the Turks are either enabled stUl
to cultivate their estates, by conforming them
selves to Grecian laws, or to sell them, and quit
the country.

TURKISH GALLANTRY. 263
The Turkish minister was one of the officers
in command at the battle of Athens ; and I heard
that he distinguished himself on the occasion by
his bravery. His Excellency, having seated him
self, and made those inquiries which pohteness
required, begged permission of her ladyship to be
aUowed to smoke his tchabouck, for he said that
it had become a second nature to him. This
being granted, his pipe-bearer was called in, and
ordered to bring in his tchabouck.
At his entry, we were all following the good
Enghsh custom of taking tea, and Lady Church
begged of the interpreter to say to his Excellency,
that she was making tea according to the English
custom, and to ask him whether he would take a
cup. Upon this being communicated to him, he
replied, with the greatest politeness, that he
seldom drank tea, but that, on the present occa
sion, he should not refuse it, for as it was made
by her ladyship's fair hand, it could not but be
agreeable. This little saUy of Turkish gallantry was re
ceived with much applause by our circle, it being
as unexpected as it was well-timed.
Some days previously to the above meeting I
had made his Excellency's acquaintance, (a friend

264 THE SULTAN.
having introduced me to him,) and he gave me
much satisfactory information relative to the mili
tary organization of Turkey.
He said that the Sultan had nearly 200,000
regular troops, all the officers of which are
Turkish, having been taught the European tactics
by European officers.
Upon my asking him if there were not Euro
pean officers in the Turkish army, he distinctly
answered that there were none : European officers
had been engaged to teach the native officers their
duty, but they held no post in the army ; and he
repeated again, that aU the officers were Turks.
The Sultan must be a very extraordinary man,
to have effected all this in so short a space of
time ; and should his highness Uve another forty
years, the new state of things wiU be so consoli-
dated as to defy the power of the Russians in
that quarter ; but as he cannot be expected to live
that time, it is impossible to foretel what may
occur ; aU will depend upon his successors being
as talented as himself.
It was now the middle of July, and the wea
ther was becoming very hot, so that I could not
stir out in the middle of the day without my um
brella ; but in the morning it was my practice to

THRESHING IN GREECE. 265
get up at five o'clock, and stroll with Demotropolos
to the columns of the Temple of Jupiter, where,
seated on a cool pedestal, on the shady side of the
columns, I used to be much entertained at the
industry of the Athenians ; for all around the base
of the columns, for at least one hundred yards,
the Athenians have paved it with large stones,
and they make use of it as a threshing-floor.
Their mode of threshing is peculiar. They fix
in the ground a large post, which rises about five
feet out of the ground, and to this they fasten
a long rope, nailed on at the bottom. To this
rope is attached twelve horses abreast ; the
rope leading to the halter of the nearest is
about twenty feet, and another shorter rope
communicates to the halter of another horse ;
and so on, till all the horses are fastened in this
manner, four feet from each other, and all
abreast. The driver then smacks his whip, and off
they bound over the corn strewed under their
feet; the further horse being obliged to gaUop,
whUe the nearer horse merely goes at a gentle
trot. In five or six minutes the nearest horse,
by the coils of the rope round the post, is
drawn close to it ; and no more rope remain-

266 THRESHING IN GREECE.
ing, they are all brought to a stand-stiU. The
horses are then unyoked, their heads turned the
reverse way, and the horse which was previously
the nearest, and who before only had to trot gently,
is now placed furthest from the post, and, forming
the extremity of the circumference, is, in his turn,
obliged to go full gaUop ; and in this manner the
corn is threshed.
This is certainly a most expeditious mode, and
in two or three hours the horses were unyoked,
the stubble cleared away, and the wheat was
remaining on the stones. It is afterwards swept
together in a heap, and an upright screen is
made use of, against which they dash the corn,
the wheat falling through, and the husks remain
ing outside. The sifted wheat is then coUected,
placed in bags, and the horses are laden with it,
and carry it away wherever it may be desired. I
went repeatedly, during the latter end of July,
to see this operation. There were several large
stacks of wheat piled around ; and one person
had the use of each threshing ground one morn
ing, another the next ; but the place was large
enough for two or three similar operations to
go on at the same time.
Another process, used by the small farmer, is,

A TURKISH BATH. 267
to employ two oxen, which merely walked over
the corn, dragging a piece of wood, with a man
standing upon it. With this they bruise the ear,
and get the corn from the husk.
The sultry weather induced me to take, for the
first time, a Turkish bath, to which I was invited
by a Greek friend. The bath room was situated
in a street at the back of my residence. We were
first introduced into a room which was delight
fully cool, and then entered an inner apartment,
which was full of hot steam, which soon pene
trated the pores, so that in ten minutes the per
spiration was dripping from us. We then went
through the ordeal of shampooing ; which is, in
fact, being rubbed down by a flannel rubber in a
similar manner to a groom dressing a horse ; and,
after twenty minutes' operations, we were then
drenched with luke-warm water.
Upon coming out of the bath, you lay down in
a bed, and the attendant brings you coffee, and a
pipe if you desire it. The price is about one
drachma and a half — including the shampooing,
the coffee, and pipe, &c. Coming out of the
bathing-house, after having taken a bath of this
nature, it is necessary to wrap one's self up in
one's cloak, for the pores are so open that even

268 COAL MINES
in a hot day in Athens this precaution is requi
site. Dr. Hipitis, the rich Esculapian, told me,
before quitting, that he purposed to raise a great
many baths, for the convenience of the town :
and, being a physician, and a very wealthy man,
something useful, as well as ornamental, will no
doubt be effected by him in that way. In Athens
there is every facility for it ; for there are foun
tains all over the town, which are supplied from
a source coming from the Pentelic mountains, and
there is no want of water, summer or winter.
While my friend was smoking his pipe in bed,
I was drinking my coffee, and the attendant put
into my hand, as a further luxury, a newspaper ;
at the same time he pointed out to me an article
of some interest to him. It was that of coal ;
for he was now obhged to burn wood to heat the
water, which was very expensive. The Gazette
stated as follows : — that, in addition to the
coal-mines of Cumes, in Negropont, and Gas-
touni, in Western Greece, the former of which
was worked, two other coal-beds had been
found ; the one was at Gardiki, in Phthiotide,
samples of which had been already sent to the
minister of the interior ; the other was disco
vered at the town of Andritza, in the Morea.

IN GREECE. 269
The Greeks are evidently aware of the im
portance of this, for the same paper makes this
observation *. —
" We hope that such discoveries may be mul
tiplied in Greece. They will form a very im
portant source of riches. In short, there are
few mineral substances more worthy of fixing
the attention of the government than coal. This
matter, supplying the place of wood, now insuf
ficient for working the numerous mines on the
continent, serves marvellously the interest of
man, and centuples his industry. It has been
said that gold mines destroy industry, and that
coal mines increase it."

270

CHAPTER XIV.
A Visitor — Voyage among the Islands — Hydra — Silk
Manufactory — Sugar — Cour d' Assises — Offences — Syra
— its Social Advantages — Myconi — Paros — Naxos —
Egina — Important Mineral Spring — The Museum —
Obligations of civilized Europe to Greece — How to
repay them — Antiquities.
My friend Phocion called upon me one morning,
just after he had been travelling among the islands
of theEgean,for about a month,in a caique,* which
was large enough for himself and a friend who tra
velled with him. His tour had been made for the
benefit of his health, in consequence of indis
position brought on by too much attention to
the business of his bureau.
Having joined me in my breakfast, I was
enabled to retain his company for some time ;
and, as Phocion is a weU-informed man, and ac-
* Boat of the country.

SILK MANUFACTURE. 271
customed carefully to observe what comes before
him, I shall here put down the substance of this
conversation, relative to the places which he had
visited during his tour.
" We first directed our little vessel," said he,*
" towards Hydra. The wind was favourable,
and wafted us there in about twelve hours.
We were well received by our friends ; and
Mr. Constandoulaki, whom we met there, gave
us much interesting information relative to an
enterprise in which he has embarked. The
government have granted him an exclusive pri
vilege for eight years, to fabricate silk. It is
requisite that there should be a commencement,
and although the exclusive privilege may seem
impolitic, still there is not sufficient opening at
the present moment to admit of a successful
emulation ; but at the end of seven or eight
years affairs will be quite different. The govern
ment have bound him to receive into his esta
bhshment, during the first three months, twenty-
five persons, and this number is to be increased
every three months, until the number amounts
* Of course, I profess to give the substance only of this
conversation, adopting this form of words merely for con
venience' sake.

272

SILK MANUFACTURE.

to one hundred, whom he is compelled to in
struct in his processes.
" For the first three months, these persons will
be fed at the expense of Mr. Constandoulaki.
The following three months, they will receive
from him from ninety leptas to two drachmas a
day, according to the talent they evince. In the
meantime, those who are so duU that they can
not learn may be discharged by him. This
fabric cannot but be very profitable to the under
taker, for the silk-worm is now being propagated
aU over Greece, and the consumption of the
wrought silk will, no doubt, increase with the
wealth of the inhabitants.
" This establishment is to be erected at Hydra,
to benefit the population, who are suffering much
from poverty; and the government have ad
vanced to the undertaker funds to the amount of
30,000 drachmas, for which he pays them ten
per cent., the principal to be payable in ten
years. " This silk enterprise." continued my friend,
" is the principal topic of the town. When I
went among the primates, they were aU talking
about it, and seemed to think it would work
wonders. In fact, the silk manufacture is to do

cour d'assise. 273
as much for Hydra as the cotton manufacture
has for Manchester.
" On leaving Hydra, we directed our course to
Syra. On our arrival there, we found aU the
town in a commotion, for it was the first opening
of the new Cour d'Assise in the island.
" It was held on the 4th of June, and pro
duced an extraordinary effect over the minds of
the inhabitants of the town. The imposing as
pect of the Court, the order which reigned
throughout the assembly, the dignity of the pre
sident, the aptitude of the jury, the eloquent dis
course of the attorney-general, the moderate tone
of his accusation, the ingenious pleading of the
chief counsel, Mr. Platys, — all concurred to
make a very deep impression upon the crowd of
hearers, among whom were the authorities of the
town. "Among the cases tried, were two persons for
robbery, and one for defamation of character ; the
rest were commercial transactions ; and in all
these cases sentences were given much to the
satisfaction of the public.
" The assizes," continued he, " only lasted for
two days, and then Syra began to get dull again ;
VOL. II. T

274 THE GREEK ISLANDS.
and, as the town is not pretty, and is situated
on a barren rock, we bent our steps towards
Tinos, another island about twenty miles distant.
" Of all the Greek islands, Tinos is perhaps
the best for society. It is thickly populated, and
there are many Greek families here who are very
wealthy, and they have their country houses, and
take a pleasure in cultivating their gardens. We
were invited, about three miles out of the town,
to a distant relation of mine, and we had small
parties every evening ; sometimes at the house
where I was staying, sometimes at the neigh
bours' houses. Where I was residing they had a
very good pianoforte, and they were tolerable
musicians, and we amused ourselves much in
their society. The people in that island are
much more advanced in their manners than in
the other islands ; the ladies dress quite in the
French style ; and nothing can be more engaging
than a well-educated young Tiniote lady.
" I passed my time very agreeably for about a
fortnight here, and then visited Myconi, and
Paros (so famed of old for its marble) and the
fertile island of Naxos, containing about fifteen
thousand inhabitants, abounding with vineyards,

MINERAL SPRING. 275
the orange, lemon, and cedar, &c. This is, in
fact, quite a paradise to live in, so far as scenery
goes. " AU these islands are very interesting in them
selves, and are situated most delightfully for sum
mer excursions ; but I wished to see Thermia,
which is renowned for its baths, and conse
quently I went there, and took advantage of
them. I then pursued my journey to Egina,
which is now a large town, and, during the sum
mer months, well peopled."
He then proceeded to state that Egina might
shortly be expected to become a place of great
resort for invahds, in consequence of a mineral
source having lately been discovered at the foot
of a smaU hiU near the sea, about five miles from
the town.*
" All that is required now," said the sanguine
Phocion, in relation to this important discovery,
" is, that somebody should build a few houses,
and make the spot agreeable to reside in, and all
* Mr. Landerer, the King's chemist, has reported upon
this spring, as follows : —
" The water is very clear, salt, and slightly bitter. Its
specific gravity is, 1*008. It raises the thermometer, of
T2

276 THERMIA.
the world will be flocking to it ; for it appears to
be a panacea for most of the evils that afflict
mankind, and will rival Thermia, which for a
long time was famed for its mineral waters. Its
contiguity to the Piraeus will cause it to be still
more resorted to.
"I stopped at Egina, "continued he, " one week,
at a very good hotel. I visited the museum, and
Reaumur, to twenty -two degrees. On analyzing, it is found
to contain —
Hydro-chlorate of Soda  58*943
Hydro-chlorate of Lime  9-560
Hydro-chlorate of Magnesia... 7*0
Sulphate of Magnesia  24410
Sulphate of Soda  5*46
Sulphate of Lime  2*340
Carbonate of Lime  7*50
Silica  2-0
Also small portions of Carbonic Acid and other Gases.
" In examining the elements of. which this water is com
posed, it seems referable to those which possess solvent and
stimulating properties.''
Mr. Landerer further says, that the water in question is
worthy of notice, on account of its being situated in a
clay soil, where, in two or three days, an excavation could
be made, so as to collect sufficient water for the consumption
of the public.
These details are taken from a report published by M.
Landerer, in a Greek newspaper.

THE ARTS IN GREECE. 277
then I returned yesterday to the Piraeus, having
been absent about six weeks."
The mention of the museum at Egina ori
ginated a conversation, upon the importance of
causing the antiquities of this country to be
sacredly guarded ; and we discussed the point, in
what way the arts which originated them had
exercised an influence upon the literature and
civilization of Europe, and thus shewing the sacred
tie that exists between Europe and Greece, the
ancient point of civilization.
The conversation of my friend was so interest
ing, and gave me such new hghts upon this point,
that I committed them to paper, adding obser
vations of my own upon the spot ; and I have
cuUed from Greek writings the remainder ;
thereby forming the following observations.
The kingdom of Greece, the birth-place of the
arts and sciences, continued, a long time after its
fall, to enjoy, under the auspices of the powerful
arms of Rome, an almost religious respect from
its conquerors. The tutors of the children of
these proud and victorious dictators were always
Greeks. The Roman youth frequented Athens
to perfect themselves in all kind of wisdom and

278 THE ARTS AND SCIENCES.
instruction. The learned poets and the artists of
Rome, far from depreciating Greek hterature
and arts, considered it a glory to imitate their chef-
d'ceuvres. But this epoch of Rome passed
away ; and about eighty years after the division
of the universal empire of the Romans into
east and west, the latter fell into the power of the
barbarians, who stripped it of its civUization.
The empire of the east was more fortunate. It
continued for ten ages, but always a prey to
troubles within and attacks from without. They
occupied themselves rather upon rehgious discus
sions, and the acquisition of celestial treasures,
than of the means of repelhng the enemy from
the frontiers.
Although the maternal tongue was preserved,
still the knowledge of the ancient works of wis
dom was lost to the commonalty, owing to
these intestine divisions ; but notwithstanding
this, some slight remains of ancient literature
and philosophy were found in the monas
teries, and this hterature consisted only in a
mere phraseology. Poetry had become ver
sification, without even elegance ; the divine
philosophy of Socrates and Plato had been trans-

THE ARTS AND SCIENCES. 279
formed into a sophistical logic, deprived of
utility. In short, the darkness arising from the
barbarism which had been spread all over West
ern Europe, covered also, and perhaps still more,
this ancient country of wisdom.
Such was the character of that epoch, when
suddenly, as if by the express will of Providence,
and in the course of half a century, many unfore
seen circumstances concurred, to give a new
energy to Europe, now lapsed into barbarism.
Some luminous and vivifying sparks arose from
the bosom of darkness, to change the face of the
universe : these were, the important discoveries
of printing and gunpowder, the discovery of
America, and that of the route to the East Indies
by sea. The unfortunate fall of Constantinople
into the hands of the Turks, took place about the
same time.
In order to escape from Ottoman tyranny,
many learned Greeks quitted their country,
taking with them copies of the admirable works
of ancient Greece. They landed in Italy, where,
after another age, through their aid, the regenera
tion of the sciences and of the arts commenced.
Many intelligent minds had applied themselves

280 THE ARTS AND SCIENCES.
to the study of Greek literature, and surpassed,
in time, their masters.
The discovery of printing propagated, to an
extraordinary extent, the works of the ancient
Greeks, as well as the production of their learned
commentators. In the course of one generation
Grecian literature was regenerated, and diffused
itself even to the extremities of Europe. The
names of Homer, Plato, Sophocles, Thucydides,
&c. resounded anew in the schools, from Italy
to the northern nations, and from the confines of
Spain to the shores of the Baltic. The genius of
those great men kindled, in a thousand intelhgent
minds, the divine fire of poetry, and developed a
taste for the studies of nature and of philosophy.
From that period, Europe advanced with large
and rapid strides in the career of civihzation, re
garding, with gratitude, Greece as the common
mother of the sciences and of the arts, and occu
pying itself with success in the development of
them. Greek literature was then estabhshed,
and is still so, in all the schools of Europe, serv
ing, with great efficacy, to develop the mind of
youth, and to enrich it with sublime ideas. Thou
sands of the rising generation learned every year

ANCIENT GREECE. 281
in the academies to honour Greece, and to con
sider it as their moral and intellectual country.
They learned, also, to respect the illustrious
men of antiquity, and to regard them as the
common benefactors of mankind. They acquired
a sentiment of respect, almost (if I may be allowed
to use the term) religious, when they pronounced
the names of Athens, Sparta, Thermopylae, and
Marathon. Such, therefore, is the tie which has united
Greece to aU Europe for a series of ages, — such
is their moral and intellectual parentage, stronger
and more powerful than the parentage of blood.
In the meantime, Greece, deprived of its name
and of its recollections, groaned, for a long time,
under the oppression of the most inhuman tyranny.
But its children fostered secretly in their bosom the
ever-living spark of their regeneration ; the glory
of their ancestors was sounded continually by
Europe in the ears of the Greeks. The sciences,
banished from Greece to Western Europe, where
they found protection, began to re-enter into the
maternal bosom. This spark soon became a
flame ; Greece seized its arms ; the civilized
world applauded and assisted ; Ottoman tyranny

282 OBLIGATIONS OF EUROPE
was successfully combated ; and its work of rege
neration has now commenced.
I have previously mentioned the very intimate
relations of Greece with the rest of Europe, the
antiquity of which is dated from the influence of
Greece upon Roman civilization, from the period
of Roman supremacy, one hundred and sixty-eight
years before the Christian era. I have also said,
that these relations are very powerful, — that they
are sacred, and almost religious ; for Western
Europe is, with regard to Greece, in the position
of a child towards its mother — in the position of
a benefited party towards its benefactor ; and
therefore we are bound to support it ; and that
nation which most shews its gratitude by so doing,
is the most dutiful offspring.
But it will be said that the nature of this rela
tion has changed. Modern Greece, scarcely
aroused from a profound and long sleep, now ob
serves Western Europe more advanced in the
arts and sciences ; — it now asks of it protection
and instruction.
Let us admit this principle to a certain degree.
Greece, in effect, asks from Western Europe
the seeds of the greater part of the sciences, to

TO GREECE. 283
diffuse them anew over her rich soil. But there
are other sciences and arts that it preserves in its
bosom, as treasures almost inexhaustible ; by de
veloping which, by rendering them accessible to
the pupil who seeks them with ardour, she may
be able to present herself, for the future, as a
kind instructress to Europe, and preserve that
sacred and ancient relation which unites her with
aU the civilized world.
That which I am now alluding to is, the
antiquities ; treasures so rich in chef-d'ceuvres
of every art; architecture, sculpture, statuary,
and inscriptions. These latter, not only throw
a new hght over the history of Greece and
the neighbouring people, over that of the arts, as
weU as over the human mind in general, but they
contribute, also, to enrich the maternal tongue of
the Greeks, and to preserve the songs and poems
of authors whose works have disappeared in the
ruin of ancient literature.
Appreciating the great importance of these ob
jects, the different governments that have ruled
over Greece since the revolution have prohibited,
by express laws, the exportation of antiquities
from the kingdom, and have decreed the preser-

284 MUSEUM AT
vation of the edifices and monuments still exist
ing, by the national assembly of Trcezene. After
the arrival of the president, Count Capo d'Istrias,
when peace had established itself, and the reve
nues of the state had increased, a public museum
was established at Syra, by order of the president,
20th October, 1829, under the surveiUance of the
archaeologist, M. Mustonidi.
The national assembly at Argos confirmed the
decree relative to them published by the assembly
at Trcezene, and the president, in consequence,
published a circular to the governors, dated the
23rd of June (old style.) This circular regulated
everything concerning the archaeologic service ;
inviting the governors, and all good citizens, to
co-operate in enriching the public museum.
The government has made excavations at
Egina, Megara, Delos, and Thermia, and in many
other places ; and they have in every case obtained
happy results.
During the interval from 1828 to 1831, the
museum which is now at Egina was formed, and
remains still there, for want of a fitter edifice at
Athens to receive it.
This museum is composed, in great part, of

EGINA. 285
some hundred pieces of marble, (as statues, bas
reliefs, architectural fragments, sepulchral co
lumns, inscriptions, and fragments of inscrip
tions,) among which there are a great number of
fine and remarkable productions of art. It
contains, also, a large collection of vases of
glazed earth, some pieces of money, and other
objects. After the death of the president, and in conse
quence of the troubles which took place, not only
did everything relative to the archaeological ser
vice cease, but the museum even of Egina was
disfigured. Shortly after the arrival of the king, the re
gency fixed its attention on this branch of the
administration . It was organized by virtue of a
law, dated 10th May, 1834, (old style,) and
which designated the persons destined for the
service. Many choice antiquities, collected in the islands
and in the Morea, have since been sent to Egina ;
and those which have been discovered at Athens
by Mr. Pittaky,* the preserver of antiquities of
* Dr. Ross is now charged, in conjunction with Mr.
Pittaky, with the preservation of the antiquities.

286 ANCIENT ART.
continental Greece, remained upon the spot, be
cause that town was destined to be the capital of
the kingdom.
The archaeological service was much more
developed after the translation of the government
to Athens. It was decreed that the modern ruins
of the Acropolis should be cleared away, and
that the edifices should be restored as much as
possible. The works commenced the 31st De
cember, 1834, and they still continue. The
results are very satisfactory. The temple of
Victory without wings, which was overthrown by
the Turks and Venetians in their struggle for this
country, a. d. 1687, has been discovered in the
ruins. Already it is almost entirely restored, and
gives a new feature to the whole scene. I have
observed, also, that a great part of the Acropolis
has been already cleared out ; and in so doing, I
have heard that a great many morceaux of Phidias
have been discovered, belonging to the Parthenon;
a great number of statues and bas reliefs ; and a
great many inscriptions, of a high interest, relat
ing to ancient history.
The machinery and scaffolding necessary for
the restoration of the overthrown columns of the

NEW MUSEUM. 287
Parthenon have been prepared, and in some
months I am informed that this work will be
proceeded in. This latter I consider a most
important undertaking, and the expense of carry
ing it into effect belongs to Europe in general, and
to England in particular. Subscriptions should be
raised all over Europe immediately, and 20,000Z.
should be coUected and sent to Greece, and
devoted whoUy and solely to the furtherance of
this object.
The expense of all the work done to the Acro
polis, the purchase and construction of machines
being included, amounted, from the 31st Decem
ber, 1834, to July, 1836, to 50,000 drachmas.
The sale of the superfluous matter amounted to
20,000 drachmas ; so that the nett expense in
curred is 30,000 drachmas, about 1071Z., a mere
trifle. The temple of Theseus, which, after the mo
numents of the Acropolis, is the most remarkable
and most perfect among those of antiquity which
still exist in Greece, has been destined to serve
provisionally as a museum. The collection in
the Temple of Theseus consists of a great number
of bas reliefs, principally, as I have been informed
by Mr. Pittaky, from excavations at the Piraeus,

288 ANCIENT ART.
and at Athens. Among the most remarkable
ancient statues, there is a curious early specimen
of an Apollo, found at Thera (now Santorin), the
style of which is almost Egyptian. Also a Mer
cury with four faces, from Tinos ; a statue found
at Milos ; a Minerva, and a Uon combating a
horse, which latter, although mutilated, are very
valuable and interesting specimens.
On account of the want of space in the Temple of
Theseus, many antiquities of an inferior merit are
left outside the building ; for instance, the urns
found when the foundation of the mint was exca
vated, in 1835. Besides these antiquities, the
government possesses, at Megara, at Thespia, in
Beotia, at Andros, at Anaphi, and in many other
places, statues of great merit, which wiU be sent
to Athens as soon as a larger museum is esta
blished ; so that shortly Athens wiU possess an
important collection of works in sculpture.
Besides this central museum, other inferior ones
are about to be established. At Syra, Mr. Coconi,
archaeologist for the islands, has estabhshed a
museum, consisting of a great number of bas
reliefs, objects of sculpture, inscriptions, vases,
and coins ; and at Tinos this example has been
followed.

THE ELGIN MARBLES. 289
The church of St. Panteleimon, at Sparta, has
been converted into a provisional museum ; and
this example has been followed at Tegea, Mega
lopolis, and Thebes.
All this evinces that great judgment has been
shewn, and that his Majesty, by patronizing this
department, is perfectly aware of the importance
of it. This will tend more to make Greece " the
fashion," than anything else, and will in time
render it the resort of all those who wish to excel
in the arts. But the replacing of the columns of
the Parthenon is of the last importance to all
Europe, and no expense should be spared to
bring it about, — the slender revenue of Greece
not allowing them to lavish the necessary sums
for its completion.
I will not close this hasty notice of the sub
ject of Greek antiquities, without expressing an
opinion, and a hope founded thereon, which,
though bold, will not, I think, want its echo in
the breasts of all true lovers of art. It is this :
that the noble coUection which London possesses,
of the sculptures from the Parthenon, should, at a
fitting season, and when that unrivalled building
is in a proper state to receive them, be restored
TO THEIR PROPER AND NATURAL HOME. The
VOL. II. U

I-ii'

1=3 ' Hi
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§ 111

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291

CHAPTER XV.
Medal of Merit — Preparations for Departure — Leave-taking
— Dine at Countess Armansperg's — Departure — Regrets
and Civilities of the Neighbours — Embark from the Pirasus
— Voyage to Epidaurus — From Epidaurus to Napoli —
Old Acquaintance — Improvement of the Town — An Eng
lish Greek Attorney-General — A Dinner in Napoli —
Greek Servants.
Hearing that I was shortly to quit Greece, my
former servant, who was with me during the
revolution, called upon me to ask a favour before
I left the country. The government had very
prudently instituted a medal, to reward those who
had fought for their country ; and there were two
grades of it, — the one of silver, for persons of
the rank of an officer, the other of iron for the
private soldiers. The latter, my servant thought
he was entitled to ; and as he had attended me
during the war, and had been in several engage-
u 2

292 GREEK POLICY.
ments, he begged of me to give him a certificate
to attest the same ; which I willingly did.
He acquainted me, that shortly after I
quitted Greece, in 1828, he had entered the
service of Baron Rouen, the French minister,
and that he was now in the service of the Chan
cellor, Armansperg. He also informed me that
he had some property in Macedonia, (which at
present belongs to Turkey,) and that he had
asked his master, the Chancellor, to use his
influence to get it sold for him ; but that the
Count advised him not to sell it, for that Mace
donia would soon belong to Greece. I mention
this to shew that the Greek government are
thinking of enlarging their dominions ; in which
they may be right ; but I suspect it would be
prudent, before they attempt this, to strengthen
and populate what they already have, in order
that they may be able to act with safety.
A few days previous to my departure, I visited
the Countess of Armansperg to take my leave,
and she invited me to dine with her on the
following day. The party consisted of the Count
and Countess, the Princess Cantacuzene, Countess
Caroline, the Nomarch of Athens, Mr. Franzoni,
and the editor of the new paper, the Courier.

LEAVE-TAKING. 293
The absence of** this family* is certainly a
great loss to the society of Athens ; but as the
Princess is married to a Greek, who will of
course live in Greece, she will probably return
thither, and make it her permanent residence.
The next day being Sunday, I called upon
Sir E. Lyons and his family, and my Athenian
friends, to take leave before my departure. I
then ordered Demetrie to get horses, — one for
myself, one for him, and another for my baggage,
which had much diminished, for I had sold one
half of it at the public auction in the town,
where it fetched a good price. I however had
enough remaining for a horse load.
The horses having arrived at the door, my
neighbours all flocked in to express their regrets
at my departure. This little voluntary attention
on their part gave me much pleasure, mingled
with regret at quitting them. They could have
had no motive but good will and good fellowship
in paying me all this attention, for they had no
idea that I should return again to Greece.
On preparing to depart, I found the youthful
part of the female community standing at the
* Count Armansperg has quitted office, and taken his
family back to Bavaria.

294 departure.
door ; among them little Helen, her sister, and
poor Eucharis, whom they had destined to be
my Greek wife. I hurried over, as well as I
could in Greek, my regret at being obliged to
quit them ; and this I did as briefly as possible ;
for such " salutations in the market-place" are
not agreeable. My neighbours then paid me as
much respect as if I had been a Pacha, for
they took my hand and kissed it. I mounted
my horse ; Demetrie, like another Sancho Panza,
mounted his, — the agoiate leading the baggage
horse ; and in this way I quitted these good
people ; the three months which I had passed in
their vicinity being among the most agreeable of
any I had ever passed in Greece.
We arrived at the Piraeus, and my compagnon
de voyage was Mr. Franzoni, a sculptor ; he had
recently taken the King's bust, and was now
going to Malta. We engaged a large roomy
passage-boat, the captain of which, for the con
sideration of fifteen drachmas, offered to depart
with us alone to Epidaurus, — a distance of about
thirty miles, and which is about twenty-four
miles from Napoli, where we were proceeding.
At about eight in the evening we made sail
from the Piraeus with a fresh breeze, and at

ARRIVAL AT EPIDAURUS. 295
about nine o'clock we spread out our beds in
the small cabin underneath, and reposed. At
midnight there was a calm, and we were abreast
of the island of Egina. I got up, and one of the
most delightful scenes presented itself. The
July moon, that was at its full, had risen for
some time, and was shining with all the bright
intensity so peculiar to a latitude of 38°. The
land of Egina, as well as that on the Corinthian
side, was quite visible ; the sails were furled,
and the boat lay quite still upon the water ; the
only thing that interrupted the silence of the
night being the gambols of the small fish, with
which the Grecian seas abound. I presently
returned to bed again, and upon my awaking in
the morning I found that we had arrived at
Epidaurus. Monday, Aug. 1. — We took up our quarters
in a clean and decent inn ; the boatmen brought
up our baggage ; and having discharged them,
we ordered our breakfast, to obtain an appetite
for which we bathed in the sea. Our landlord
gave us a breakfast of coffee and milk, and
toasted bread and fried fish ; and after breakfast
we decided upon waiting till one o'clock. In
the meantime we laid down upon our mat-

296 JOURNEY TO NAPOLI.
tresses, which were spread out upon the large
wooden sofas that form an appendage of every
inn in Greece.
At this place, the agoiates were a little extor
tionate, demanding six drachmas a day for the
horses, instead of five. We were, however,
obliged to take them, and proceeded on our route
to Napoli. The country through which we
passed was very mountainous and interesting.
Here and there were villages, surrounded by
large vineyards, and much of the ground was
covered with the tobacco plant.
At four o'clock, we arrived at a gensdarme
station, and at six o'clock, at another, which had
attached to it an inn. The gendarme at this
station had his wife with him, nursing a baby ;
she was a very pretty person, quite a Greek
in countenance. Our horses had now been tra
velling about five hours, and it required four
hours more to reach Napoli. We therefore
decided upon stopping here half an hour, and
recruited our spirits with some good country
wine. Continuing our route over hill and dale,
both prettily wooded, we were overtaken by night
at eight o'clock, and we ordered the agoiate
to proceed a-head with the baggage-horse, he

JOURNEY TO NAPOLI. 297
knowing the road, and we immediately following
him, which is always the best plan if you travel
by night.
The moon rose at half-past eight o'clock, and
enlivened the scene ; but still we lost much of the
scenery. Let a traveller who wishes to see this
country travel by day, (wfth a thick silk um
brella,) and let him never be out after dark ; but
rise at break of day, travel till eleven o'clock,
and then give his animals and himself rest for
two hours, till one or half-past one o'clock ; then
continue his journey till half-past six. It is
always desirable to enter the village where you
purpose sleeping before it is dark ; otherwise
you are quite at the mercy of your guides, and
cannot choose your resting-place.
At about ten o'clock we arrived at Pronia, a
village in the environs of Napoli, and there we
were obliged to stop for the night ; for Napoli is
a fortified town, and the gates are always closed
at nine o'clock in the evening. The traveller,
therefore, quitting Epidaurus, should leave it at
ten in the morning, instead of one, as we did.
We were thus compelled to put up with bad ac
commodations.

298 NAPOLI.
The agoiates conducted us to a very large
building, the tenants of which were all asleep,
and, having knocked at the large gates for ten
minutes, a person descended, and admitted us
with our baggage into a court-yard. This latter
place is for merchandize ; but there are several
rooms in a corridor above, allotted for those tra
vellers who arrive too late to enter the town of
Napoli. The room that we were ushered into was
a very spacious one, but totaUy unfurnished ;
we therefore ordered up our mattresses, and
slept upon them, after having partaken of some
cold meat and bread, and some very good Greek
wine. August 2nd. — This morning we entered the
town of Napoli at seven o'clock, with our bag
gage, and we were taken by the agoiates to a
very good hotel, belonging to one Anastatius.
For cleanliness and comfort, it is not to be sur
passed by any hotel in Europe ; but the charges
were very high for the rooms — namely, six
drachmas a day. The accommodations, however,
were too inviting for us to go anywhere else, and
we ordered our baggage to be brought up, and

NAPOLI. 299
installed ourselves, with the intention of remain
ing a few days.
I had here the pleasure of meeting again my
former travelling companions, Mr. Booth, Mr.
Dorr, and Mr. Curtis. They had quitted Athens,
about a month previously, and had visited
Sparta and Tripolizza, and they were sojourning
for a little time in Napoli. I had also the grati
fication of meeting my old companion in arms,
Mr. Masson, who was public secretary to Lord
Cochrane. It was eight years since I had seen
him, and I found him neither altered in friend
ship nor appearance. He received me most
kindly and cordially, just as Englishmen always
do abroad.
After Masson had assisted in fighting the
battles of Greece, he very properly adopted the
motto of " cedant arma toga" and embraced the
profession of the law. His eloquence I formerly
recorded, in connexion with the presentation of
the flag ; and it appears that he has distinguished
himself so much by it as to have attained the
post of attorney-general to the Greek govern
ment. I never met with a foreigner who had
attained such fluency in the Greek language; and
to plead in that language must have required on

300

NAPOLI.

his part immense application, as well as apti
tude.* Masson stopped with me all the morning, and
gave me much information on public affairs. In
discoursing on these matters, he put his points
so forcibly that I could not help regretting his
devoting his exertions to any country but his
own. And so I told him. But, like most others
who have really served Greece, he is evidently
wedded to her for life.
On Masson leaving me, at two o'clock, he
begged that I would dine with him every day
while I remained here, and said that he would
invite somebody to meet me, to make my time
pass agreeably.
I then walked about with my good friend Booth
to view again this town. I found material altera
tions in Napoli since last year. It had become
a pretty garrison town, well cleaned, and in quite
as good order as any town on the Continent, of a
similar size. Provisions are very cheap, and
* In most governments, the attorney-general is changed
with the ministry ; and so it has happened with Masson,
who no longer holds that post, but is now a barrister, and
gives opinions to those who require his aid, and also lectures
to the Greek youth on civil law.

THE BANK. 301
house-rent particularly so : houses which for
merly let for 100L a year, while the court was at
Napoli, now only let for 25Z. a year. The
society is composed of the officers of the garri
son, with their wives, and the merchants of the
place ; of which latter there are a great many, for
Napoli is a place of great commerce, it being the
emporium of nearly all the produce of the
Morea. Madame Karbouni, whom I had before
met, and considered as one of the chief orna
ments of the balls at Athens, is the daughter of
the commandant of the town, Colonel Strong.
She is a Bavarian lady, and had married Kar
bouni, a Greek, one of the King's orderly
officers. As I had the honour of that lady's acquaint
ance, I paid her a morning visit, and she intro
duced me to her father, the Colonel, who was
very polite, and offered to accompany me to see
the celebrated Palamede, the fortress of the town.
He conversed a great deal about Greece and the
Bank, which latter, he said, was the only thing
that Greece required to secure her ultimate pros
perity. I stopped with the colonel and his daughter
till it was getting late, and then quitted them,

302 DINNER A LA GREC.
hurrying home to dress for my friend Masson's
dinner. Arriving there, I found two Italian
Philhellenes, who had been amongst the earliest
combatants for Grecian liberty. Masson gave us
a dinner entirely Greek. One of the dishes was
a turkey stuffed with chesnuts and currants, and
it is certainly an excellent method of dressing
that bird, giving to it a flavour much preferable
to the Enghsh mode. It is, in fact, a dish wor
thy of a French artist. Masson gave us some
excellent Greek wines — Sciote, Naxiote, and
others, in great variety — the quahty of which
made one not regret the wines of France. His
major-domo, who is butler, cook, and valet in
one, has been with him for the last eight years,
and is an admirable servant. I recollect him
when I was in Greece in 1828. There were a
considerable number of dishes served up, and
six sat down to dine ; yet there was nobody in
attendance but this man, who did his duty with
as much celerity and effect as if there had been
three or four waiters in the room. This man is
a strong instance of the fidelity, as well as intel
ligence, of the Greek character among the lower
classes. For our dessert, Masson ordered in
some ices from the confectioner's, whicli were as

MR. MASSON. 303
good as either Gunter's or Tortoni's, and about
one-third of the price. This is a luxury which
abounds in Greece.
I never passed a more agreeable evening ; for
Masson is full of anecdote and wit ; indeed, he
has the latter perfectly at his command.

304

CHAPTER XVI.
Madame Turette — Society in Napoli — Constitution of the
Greek Army — Cotton and Tobacco — Inns in Greece —
Arrival at Corinth — Vostizza — Patras — The " Inglesi" —
Law of Dotation — Dr. Maniachis.
August 3. — This morning I paid a visit to Major
Turette, the Commandant de Place, whose ac
quaintance I had previously made. He was
residing, with his wife, in a very good house lead
ing towards the gate of the town. Madame
Turette informed me that they had lately been
visited by Monsieur and Madame Lagrenee, the
French minister at Athens, and upon the occa
sion they had given a ball, and that, among the
dancers alone, there were sixty Greek ladies.
I mention this fact as an indication that Athens
is not the only town in Greece in which society
may be found.

GREEK ARMY.

30f

I learned, on this occasion, from Turette, that
the state of the army in Greece is as follows : —

Bavarians

. Greeks. Total.

Four battalions of infantry, composed

of 2500 & 900 = 3400

One battalion of artillery . . .

200

700 = 900

Four companies of engineers .

400

... = 400

Two companies of sappers

240
... = 240
Two companies of wagon train
160
... = 160
One regiment of cavalry . .
240
340= 580
Corps of gendarmeries . .
...
1400 = 1400
Forest keepers 
. 120
60 = 180
Phalanx (say) 
2000 = 2000
Four Greek light battalions
1600 = 1600
Ten battalions of moving national gus
rds ...
2000 = 2000
One company of invalids . . .
60= 60
Total
. . 12920
August 5, 1836. — This day I quitted Napoli,
in company with Mr. Booth and M. Franzoni.
My companions proceeded to Argos to visit the
theatre there, which is a little out of the road ;
but, as I had repeatedly seen that piece of anti
quity before, I went alone to the tomb of Aga
memnon, where I arrived in an hour and a half.
This tomb is a large conical building, about thirty
feet high, the stones of which are very massive.
I measured one, which is at the entrance of the
VOL. II. x
306 PLAIN OF ARGOS.
tomb, over the doorway, and found it to be
twenty-seven feet in length, seventeen in width,
and four feet seven inches in thickness. We
afterwards all three proceeded to visit ancient
Mycenae, which is so famous for its extraordinary
gateway, over which are still the remains of two
lions, rudely carved. The enormous massive
stones composing the walls of this building are of
a character to laugh to scorn our present Lillipu
tian style of architecture.*
Having satisfied our curiosity, we proceeded
through the plain of Argos, which is one of the
richest in Greece. It is thickly studded with
villages, well peopled, and is in a high state
of cultivation. The vine, and the cotton and
tobacco plants, are seen on all sides. The in
habitants were busy in collecting the leaves of
the latter, which was growing in great luxuriance.
Eight years ago, I recollect this plain almost a
marsh and a wilderness ; now it is weU drained,
and immense crops are obtained from the land.
Leaving this plain, we entered the Dervenaki,
a place famous for the defeat of Dramali Pacha,
* As those objects of antiquity have been often described,
I shall omit the various particulars which I find in my
journal concerning them.

INNS IN GREECE. 307
with a loss of 5000 men. The pass is very
narrow, and the mountains and heights on each
side were taken possession of by the Greeks,
under the command of Niketas, and other chiefs.
The Turks made no resistance, merely putting
their hands to their faces, and crying, "Allah!
Allah !" The guide told me that the bones might
still be seen, both of men and horses, scattered
about. We arrived at Kortissa about ten in the morn
ing, which is a station for gens-d'armes. This is
the only inn in Greece with whicli I was ever
thoroughly dissatisfied. The inns in the towns
are all good ; the monasteries, also, are good
halting places — that is to say, they are clean, and
you have a clean place to put your bed on ; but
this hotel here is bad. This is a point, the im
portance of which cannot be too strongly im
pressed upon the Greek government, and should
be almost insisted upon by the ministers of the
foreign powers. As I have said before, Greece
will, for the next ten years, derive her support
chiefly from foreigners, and, consequently, every
accommodation should be afforded, as an induce
ment to their advent. At the different halting
places, three or four rooms should be properly
x2

308 INNS IN GREECE.
fitted up by the government, and a proper person
placed in care of them, as landlord, with a small
income yearly, till circumstances render this un
necessary, — some one who understands the mode
of keeping an inn, and of which numbers might
be found in Athens. In the towns this is not
required, but I am speaking of the country
places and monasteries. To prove how easily
this might be effected, let us suppose, for instance,
that one hundred of these places might require
to be fitted up throughout Greece ; we wiU state
the cost of this at 201. each, or 2000Z., (the fitting
up of my apartments did not cost me 10Z. ;) add
to this a salary of (say) 20Z. to each of the persons
appointed to look after these places of public
accommodation, until the increase of traveUing
should enable them to pay themselves. Thus,
for a sum of 2000Z. a year, the government would
assure a comfortable provision for a hundred
meritorious persons, and provide the means of
attracting to their country innumerable visitors,
who would ultimately render a " trip to Greece"
a matter of fashionable amusement.
Until some such arrangement as this takes
place, travellers in Greece will do well to go in
parties of three or four together, and with the

ROAD TO CORINTH. 309
appendage of a small tent, the expense of carry
ing which will be merely five drachmas a day for
a horse. The above-named place is about half way be
tween Napoli and Corinth, and we stopped at it
for two hours. The agoiates took the horses
into the stables, (which, by the bye, are always
excellent in Greece,) and gave them each a good
feed of oats, for wliich they paid twenty leptas
(lid.) the okre, (two and a half pounds weight:)
At the back of this inn there was a small cascade
of running water, and after waiting a quarter of
an hour to cool ourselves, we bathed our heads
in this delightful natural shower-bath.
AU that we could get to eat here was eggs,
bread, and dried figs ; but having prudently
brought with us our tea-pot, and tea and coffee,
we did not fare amiss, as we could have excellent
milk. The habitation was without windows, and
it was altogether in a miserable condition.
We remained here till twelve o'clock, and then
continued our journey, the road, all the way to
Corinth, being a natural carriage road. Here
and there there were some small ravines, over
which the government should throw wooden
bridges, the materials for which are ready on the

310 CORINTH.
spot ; and 100Z. would thus make the road per
fectly good, from Kortissa to Corinth, a distance
of twenty miles.
The country was not much cultivated until we
arrived within five miles of Corinth, and then, as
far as the eye could reach, along the sea-coast,
there was nothing but vineyards of the large
grape, and of the small currant, which take their
name -from this famous city.* This province, as
far as Vostizza and Patras, is the richest in aU
Greece, the owners of the currant vineyards
making large revenues from their estates.
It was about five o'clock when we arrived at
Corinth ; and after having taken our rooms in
the hotel, which is kept by a Cephaloniote, we
proceeded to view the Acrocorinthus, a place
famed for the struggle between the Greek and
Turk. It is a fortress 2000 feet above the level
of the sea, built in the time of the indefatigable
Venetians. The soldier who accompanied us
round said, that it required two hours walking,
to visit every point and every gallery in the fort
ress. Athens may be seen from it, about thirty
miles distant, in a direct line, and Napoli also at
* Raisins de Corinth, of which latter word " currant " is
obviously a corruption.

CORINTH. 311
about the same distance in another direction.
The sun was now setting, and we retraced our
steps quickly from the fortress and regained the
hotel, which is not one of the best in Greece,
although numerous travellers pass through the
town.* We, however, had a very decent supper, for
which we paid rather an exorbitant price. At
the same table with us was a Russian Count,
who was traveUing in Greece for his amusement,
and whose manners and deportment were highly
pleasing.*)* There is nothing worth notice in Corinth but
the fortress ; the town itself, from the succession
of civil war which it has experienced, is in a most
* I have since heard that another hotel has been esta
blished. ¦f I have often made this remark relative to the Russian
nobility, from whom I have always received personally the
greatest civility, and have found them to be most gentlemanly
in their deportment. When Lord Cochrane quitted Greece,
in 1828, Count Heyden, the Russian Admiral, put a corvette
at his disposal, to convey him and his suite to Malta. The
captain of this vessel gave up his cabin, and put himself to
the greatest inconvenience to accommodate the Admiral ; and,
throughout the voyage, the endeavours of the whole crew-
were directed to please him.

312 CORINTH.
dilapidated state ; but there can be no doubt that
it will rise again, as the landholders become rich
from their currant lands, which extend far and
wide. I was informed here that provisions are ex
tremely cheap, as they come across in boats from
the opposite side of the Gulph, — at which latter
place cheese and butter are sold at fifteen paras
the okre, when the same, on their arrival at
Athens, are worth sixty paras the okre.
The distance from Corinth to Patras by land is
a journey of three days. I had made that journey
the previous year. The country all the way along
for seventy miles in a straight line is planted
with currant* vineyards. Vostizza, which is half
way on the road between Corinth and Patras, is a
great mart for this fruit ; and the houses of the
town, which are being built in the most handsome
style, attest the wealth of the inhabitants of the
place. Myself and my companions decided now to
make this journey by sea, and for that purpose
* The currant is cultivated in a similar manner to the
vine in France. It is staked, and grows to about four feet
from the ground : the only difference between the two fruits
being in the size.

VOYAGE TO PATRAS. 313
we rode to the sea side, about two miles distant,
and hired a caique to ourselves, to take us to
Patras, a distance of seventy miles, for the consi
deration of fifty drachmas.
We raised our anchor, with a fair wind, and
left Corinth behind us, gliding along at the rate
of seven miles an hour ; and if the same wind had
continued, we should have been at Patras early
the if&tt morning, it now being five in the after
noon. Nothing is, however, so uncertain as the
wind in those seas. A calm came on, and night
feU before we had made much progress.
Aug. 6, 1836. — This morning, instead of being
at Patras, we found ourselves only half way, op
posite Galaxidi. We much wished to land here,
to visit Delphi, but that would have detained
us two days, and we might have lost the steam
vessel, which plies every fortnight between Patras,
Corfu, and Ancona, to which latter place we
wished to go.
We continued steering our course with light
airs, and the captain of the caique spread an
awning which protected us from the rays of the
sun. I know nothing more agreeable at this
time of the year than a sea trip in this Gulph ;

314 VOYAGE TO PATRAS.
and in a large vessel, with every convenience on
board, it must be quite a luxury. On each side
are high mountains covered with trees, and vil
lages dispersed here and there, the inhabitants of
which are in the fields coUecting the vintage. At
about ten o'clock, after we had finished our break
fast, we espied a caique coming out of Vostizza
and going towards Galaxidi. For amusement
sake we brought her to, and went on board. We
found that she was laden with fruit, — superb
melons and pears, which to us were quite a
treat ; so that both parties were pleased at the
rencontre — they to sell their fruit, and we to pur
chase it. We bought five large yellow melons for
about half a drachma each, and for the pears,
which were exquisite, we gave two leptas each.
The light and variable breezes which we en
countered to-day, though very pleasant, were not
favourable to our progress, and the sun again set
on our voyage.
Aug._X*-lB3i>.-' — During the night, the boat had
gradually stolen along, and about five o'clock this
morning we were abreast of the two forts which
protect the entrance to the Gulph of Lepanto.
The sea is here less than a mile across, and the

PATRAS. 315
forts have a most imposing appearance. The
breeze now freshened with the rising of the sun,
and at seven o'clock we arrived at Patras.
Booth and myself had deputed Franzoni, the
sculptor, to get apartments for us ; as, not
being an Englishman, he would be likely to get
them at half price.
Patras is a large commercial town, and has
several good hotels ; and we had requested the
captain of the caique to shew our friend the
way to the most suitable. Accordingly, he did
so ; but just before they reached the indicated
spot, the captain started off, leaving Franzoni
behind him, and entered the Hotel de Grande
Bretagne. Franzoni, however, guessing what he
was about, was at his heels, and just in time to
hear the captain say to the hotel-keeper, in
Italian, " Inglesi."
This was enough for our friend, who was not
easily outwitted ; so he immediately turned on
his heel, and entered a rival establishment — not,
however, without the captain and the hotel-
keeper being at his heels to entreat his stay. It
would not do, however, and at the latter place
if hotel des Isles Ioniennes) he hired three good
rooms for six drachmas a day.

316 PATRAS.
The landlord was a Cephaloniote, and he had
recently set up this hotel. We ordered him to
prepare us a dinner of soup, fish, cutlets, and
dessert, with country wine, and for which he
charged us two drachmas a head, and the cooking
was excellent.
After dinner, we strolled along the parade
and about the town, which is one of the best laid
out towns in Greece ; all the streets being very
wide, and running at right angles to one another,
and the houses being very large and roomy. Every
thing, in short, indicates that it is a wealthy
place. Its contiguity to the coast of Italy, and
the steam-boat arriving there every fortnight
from Ancona and Corfu, and the steam-boat from
England every month, by way of Malta, accounts
for this. The staple commodity of the place
(the currants) also tends to give it an importance
which will shortly make it a large flourishing
town. In the environs, we approached a large heap
of corn, and we observed a man occupied in
stamping large wooden prints upon it, to prevent
any one from taking it away. This was all the
security that he deemed needful for his corn.
As the evening closed in, we observed the

LAW OF DOTATION. 317
opposite side of the bay covered with fires ; the
inhabitants were clearing away the land, to bring
it into a state of cultivation, and they found
the most expeditious way was to burn the forests.
The inhabitants of aU this part of the country are
turning the waste lands into vineyards ; which
plan is found very profitable.
August 8th, 1836. — To-day, I paid a visit to
Mr. Robinson, the English vice-consul, and as
the subject of our long conversation (the law of
Dotation, which has been introduced into Greece)
is of much importance, I shall put down the
results of the information I obtained from that
gentleman. In order to remedy the want of capital in
Greece, the government passed a law, called the
law of Dotation. This authorized any one to
purchase land of the government, to the amount
of 2000 drachmas, and for which nine per cent.
was paid for thirty -six years. Consequently,
the individual holding the land would have to
pay the government one hundred and eighty
drachmas a year, whether the land was cultivated
or not.
The Greeks never cultivate the same spot
two years running, for want of manure ; there-

318 CULTIVATION IN GREECE.
fore the tenant would only have the produce of
one-haff the land to pay the interest with, and
to support himself.
There is another mode of holding land of the
government, by double dimes — that is, the holder
of the land has to pay to the government twenty
per cent, of the produce of the land.
The difference, therefore, is this — that in the
first, the holder is compeUed to work his land,
and is not protected against dearths or sterihty,
always being obliged to pay a certain rent ; and,
in the second, he is not obhged to work it, and
only pays according to the profits.
Now my own opinion on this matter — and it
has been coincided in by many intelhgent natives
of Greece — is, that the party taking the land
(say to the amount of two thousand drachmas)
should pay for it by instalments, in the space of
five, six, ten, or fifteen years ; but if in three
years half the land be not cultivated, it should
be forfeited ; and in eight years, the whole
must have gone under a state of cultivation : —
the tenant, of course, paying his tithe to the
government. I think that if this mode were followed, nearly
everybody in Greece would take portions of the

CURRANTS. 319
land ; the government would be accumulating
every year a large sum of money, from the pay
ment of the instalments ; and, in a few years,
Greece would become wealthy and prosperous ;
for, besides the above, it would have a sure and
regular income arising from the dime, which is
always paid to the government for the support of
the state ; and the circumstance of the tenant
being compelled to cultivate a part, or to forfeit
the whole, would bring the entire country into a
state of cultivation.
I met to-day my old friend, Dr. Maniachis,
with whom I had a long conversation on various
topics. The currant mania has seized him as
weU as the rest, and he has taken to farming
whenever he can steal away from his avocations
as a lawyer. He informed me that he had about
thirty acres of currant land (about sixty stremata)
• — that it had been planted one year, and was
promising very weU.
He acquainted me that the land fit for the
growth of currants was sold at forty doUars a
strema, and that each strema required twenty
doUars more to cultivate it, and plant it with
vines ; that the two following years, the ex-

320 CURRANTS.
penses would amount to ten dollars more ;
making, in the whole, seventy dollars ; and that
the fourth year it would produce a crop of cur
rants, yielding thirty dollars. Consequently,
deducting five dollars for the cultivation, a nett
profit would be returned to him of twenty-five
doUars, which is about thirty-six per cent, on the
capital. He added, that the land was being
ploughed up in all directions for vine plantations,
for that the currant was now returning immense
profits. The next subject we touched upon was a new
law levying five per cent, upon the profits of aU
sorts of commerce, — a sort of income tax, — in
cluding lawyers, but excluding schoolmasters,
sculptors, painters, and the fine arts. This was
a sore point for the doctor, who is a barrister,
and being of the same profession myself, I sym
pathised with him. The tax in question is, in
fact, degrading the toga to the level of a trade.
Maniachis, speaking of his having given up his
judgeship of the court at Patras, for which the
government paid him only 150Z. a year, and
resuming his profession of a barrister, by which
he was gaining a good income, said, " I had a

LIVING AT PATRAS. 321
hard battle to fight to get rid of it ; for the
government would not accept my resignation,
and I was actually obliged to send back my
patent to them, nolens volens."
August 9. — I walked about the town this
morning, making inquiries into the price of pro
visions. I found that bread of the first quality
cost twenty-six leptas the okre ; second quality,
fifteen leptas ; eggs, two leptas each ; wine, fifty
leptas the okre, which I think is as cheap as in
almost any part of the world ; and the market
was very weU supplied with everything. In the
afternoon Booth and myself visited the fortress,
about a quarter of a mile from the town, which
is quite in a state of dilapidation. A part of it
had been repaired and used as a prison, and
while we were there we saw three gensdarmes
carrying in a delinquent. The gensdarmes are a
very fine corps, and do their duty well. The
position of this fortress commands the whole
town. August 10. — I was engaged all the morning
packing up my baggage, this being the day on
which the steam vessel was expected. At eleven
o'clock it was in sight, and in another hour in
the port.
VOL. II. Y

322 IONIAN ISLANDS.
The Ionian islands having been weU and often
described by other travellers, I shall only say- of
them generally, that the wealth of England is
daily rendering them more and more prosperous,
and that Corfu, in particular, is a magnificent
city, with environs resembling a paradise. I
proceeded thence to Ancona in the steamer, and
returned to England through Venice, the Tyrol,
Munich, and Paris.
I shaU now conclude by one additional chap
ter, embracing some remarks as to the manner in
which Greece should be cultivated by foreigners,
and also relative to the colonization of that fertile
and delightful country.

323

CHAPTER XVII.
ON THE COLONIZATION OF GREECE.
Having presented to my readers a sketch of the
society of Athens, its manners, and the amuse
ments that are to be met with there, I now pro
pose to touch upon a subject to which I have,
more than once, referred incidentally, in con
nexion with remarks on the cultivation of land in
the environs of Athens, but which I now propose
to consider in reference to the whole of Greece ;
but in so doing, I beg to intimate that I am per
fectly aware that many persons may differ from my
views on this point. In fact, I do not offer the fol
lowing observations as dicta indispensable to be
carried into effect, with a view to the elevation of
y2

324 ON THE COLONIZATION
Greece into an important station in Europe ; I
merely put on record my own individual opinions
and sentiments, which have been formed by a long
and matured consideration of fhe subject, and
which, had I the " apphances and means" at my
own disposal, I should certainly carry into effect ;
believing them, as I do, to be the best mode of pre
venting many future evils in the shape of wars,
and particularly in raising up a cheap and power
ful barrier to assist Turkey should she be
assailed by Russia twenty years hence.
What I have already hinted on this topic, in
the foregoing pages, was intended for the benefit
of the man of pleasure, who, on arriving at
Athens, might know how to take advantage of
the delights of that city. What I am now to
state is addressed to the man of business, or
settler, and has for its object to prevent his being
misled by erroneous or interested representations,
and to induce him to examine and judge for him
self — to compare and weigh my remarks and
statements against those, of a different nature and
tendency, which may be offered to his attention ;
and then choose fairly between the two : for no
thing is fuither from my wishes than that any
one should act upon these suggestions until he

OF GREECE. 325
has well considered and investigated the subject
himself, and upon the spot to which the remarks
refer. There are two ways by which the present
waste lands of Greece may be cultivated.
1 . By foreign capitalists working by means of
natives of the soil.
2. By foreign capitalists employing foreign
labourers. I shall, in the first place, suppose myself a
foreign capitalist landed in Greece, with the in
tention of purchasing a large estate in the Morea
or Negropont, and cultivating it by means of the
natives. In this case, I should locate myself in
Athens for at least a month or six weeks, and
amuse myself with the gaieties of the place, and,
in the meantime, lose no opportunity of quietly
ascertaining whether any, and what estates were
to be disposed of. I should thus, probably, soon
hear of some property on sale ; but if not, I
would advertize my wish to purchase an estate,
and numerous offers would, no doubt, be made
to me. I should then choose that among them
which was in the part of the country most con
genial with my ideas; I should visit it — ob
serve whether the spot was well situated for

326 ON THE COLONIZATION
health — and I should consult the opinion of some
experienced English resident as to the nature of
the soil, &c. Having done so, if I found every
thing answerable to my wishes, I would then
purchase the land at a fair price — which varies
much, according to the locality — the average price
of land in Greece being fifty drachmas the
strema. Having gained possession of the estate, I should
not commence operations by wasting large sums
of money in buying foreign husbandry tools ;
indeed, I should not tiU the land myself in the
first instance. I should follow the example of our
forefathers in England. I should locate upon my
land, first, a priest, whose services I could secure
for about three hundred drachmas a year, for
which he would engage to reside upon the spot. I
should build him a small house, which would cost
me about 15Z., and a church, which might cost 15Z.
more. I would next build a few smaU cottages,
which might cost me 10Z. each, and then engage
some Greek families to come and reside on differ
ent parts of my estate. The Greeks are a very
religious race, and their priests have great influ
ence over them. The priest, being interested in
the success of my plans, would of course exer-

OF GREECE. 327
cise his influence in preventing me from being
imposed on.
By these means, I have no doubt, my peasantry
would increase, and the neighbouring villagers
would eagerly desire to hold land on my estate ;
and I should have no trouble in keeping my
tenants together, as this would be the care of the
priest; who, by the bye, I should require to pro
duce strong recommendations from the bishop of
the diocese.
The terms of my agreement with my tenants
would vary according to circumstances. I
should say to them, if I provide you with a
pair of oxen to till your lands, and seed with
which to plant it, you shall give me one-half of
the produce ; or, if you provide yourself with
cattle and seed, you shall then pay me one-eighth
of the produce, binding yourself to cultivate an
adequate portion of the land every year, and to
keep the cottage in repair.
I must here observe, that the settler wishing
to cultivate by means of natives, should devote
three months to the acquirement of the language,
which will repay well the trouble he has thus
bestowed. I should allow my tenants to sow the corn

328 ON THE COLONIZATION
after their own methods, only taking care to en
sure its being actually sown ; giving them out
only enough for one day's planting. I should
not interfere with the tools they used ; nor should
I quarrel with them because, in ploughing, they
allowed the thistles to remain standing: all I
should require would be my quota of the produce.
It is very possible, indeed, that, after a little
time, when I had well-tenanted my estate, I should,
for my amusement, and by way of example, cul
tivate, after my own style, twenty, thirty, or
forty acres, and thus I should by degrees intro
duce the habit of well-clearing the land. But it
is a curious circumstance that, in those lands
which the plough has merely scratched over, (for
it is little more,) and where the thistles are al
lowed to remain, I have often seen the heaviest
crops of corn.
I have founded the above plan, first, on the
character of the Greek peasantry, who are very
religious ; secondly, from having read of it in our
own history ; thirdly, from seeing it actually car
ried into effect in the Brazils.
When I was in the latter country, in the years
1823 and 1824, in my travels in the interior I
particularly remarked, that all the wealthy land-

OF GREECE. 329
lords nominated clergymen as overseers to their
estates ; their spiritual power being great over the
minds of the peasantry, who were emerging into
a state of incipient civilization. I used to observe
that, after the toils of the day, when the labourers
returned home from the field, they passed in re
view before the priest, and said, " Jesu Christo,"
making an obeisance ; and that the priest replied
in the words, " Faz o santo," (makes you holy.)
I had a long conversation with one of the
priests on this subject, and he told me that he
had no trouble with the slaves, and that he kept
them aU in very good order by these mild means.
I would not recommend any one to till his
land in Greece upon his own account, until he
has been at least one year resident in the country ;
but let his tenants do everything, he merely
taking part of the profits.*
According to the above calculation, I should
not lay out more than a hundred pounds in build
ing cottages and a church. I should expend
another hundred pounds in building myself a
house, from the timber on the estate. I should
* It is true that my friend Bell tills his own ground ; but
he has been in the country six or seven years, and he per
fectly understands husbandry himself.

330 ON THE COLONIZATION
then watch quietly the progress of affairs, and
take advantage of circumstances as they might
arise ; but I would in no case farm myself in the
outset, but would do it by the medium of the pea
santry, who are a very good race of people, and
who, if they see that you are determined to re
main among them and become their feudal lord,
will be faithful to you to the end of the chapter.
The pay of a peasant, in the interior, is generally
one drachma a day ¦ in the environs of Athens,
two and a half drachmas ; but then this latter price
is counterbalanced by the provisions being more
valuable. Were my estate in the Morea, I should expect
to get from my tenants, butter, cheese, honey,
wine, silk, tobacco, and horned cattle.
If in Bceotia and Negropont, — wheat, barley,
rice, maiz, hemp, and tobacco.
If in Attica, — oil, honey, corn, barley, and
sheep. By reports which I have now before me, I
learn, that average returns of honey are about
twenty per cent. The wines, of which there are
a great variety, as in Greece, yield the cultivator
above thirty per cent., and, if properly attended
to by experienced persons, the wine exported

OF GREECE. 331
would pay an enormous profit. The average
profits arising from the cultivation of the silk
worm are forty per cent. ; cattle produce, about
twenty per cent. ; wheat, barley, rice, and maiz,
twenty per cent. ; tobacco, thirty per cent.
The oil of the country is a branch well worth
the attention of the speculator. There are some
oil-presses about a mile and a half from Athens ;
and I used to go and see the process of making
it. From a given quantity of olives, deposited
by the farmer with the manufacturer, the latter
is obliged to produce a certain proportion of oil.
The consequence is, that the manufacturer, to
make up the measure, puts the good and bad
ohves together into the press, and the result is,
an oil of an indifferent quality; whereas, on a
trial made of choice olives by the king's chemist,
the oil was found to be perfectly equal to that of
Lucca. This is a branch of commerce, the cul
tivation of which would probably be more profit
able than any other in Greece.
The cotton succeeds perfectly well, but it is
only fit for coarse cottons ; for fine works, the
cottons of Egypt are required.
Opium has also been recently introduced at

332 ON THE COLONIZATION
Tyrinth, near Argos, and is now being planted
to a large extent. European fruits of all kinds
abound in the Morea, and all over Greece ; and
currants, as I have said before, are a most pro
fitable branch of commerce.
These are the principal productions of Greece,
and from which a very handsome profit may be
obtained, if the settler is only prudent, ahd will
consider and compare my notes with his own
personal observations. I should also recom
mend settlers of this kind to locate in companies
of two and three ; the principal advantage to be
derived from this being the constant presence of
the master's eye.
The next point upon which I shall treat will
be, the cultivation of Greece by foreigners.
Supposing that I had decided on going to
Greece to purchase land, with the view of culti
vating it by persons who were not natives of the
soil, I should first of all go to my minister, and
procure an introduction to the minister of the
interior, and I should state to him, in substance,
as follows : —
That having a wish to purchase an estate in
Greece, and to till the land by means of my own

OF GREECE. 333
countrymen, . or persons not natives of the
Grecian soil, before entering into an under
taking so materially affecting my own interests,
and so beneficial to Greece, I had to submit to
him a few propositions, on acceding to which I
should be wiUing to become a citizen of the
state. I should precede these conditions by ob
serving, that the introduction of colonists into a
new country being of unquestionable advantage
to that country, it became no less the interest
than the duty of the existing government to faci
litate, as much as possible, such colonization, by
making the colonists who might be induced to
settle in the rising state so secure in their pos
sessions, and so content with their condition,
that they might not wish to quit the adopted soil.
The United States, the Canadas, and New South
Wales, are examples which I should adduce ; the
two first, as being already powerful states ; the
last, although at the distance of 10,000 miles
from England, as being resorted to by large
numbers of persons from the latter country, who
have small fortunes, and who wish to increase
them, and also by artisans and labourers.
But these countries are differently situated to
Greece. The people of the United States and

334 ON THE COLONIZATION
the Canadas, in particular, are highly civilized,
and they know that the introduction of foreigners
wiU tend to raise the value of their own property ;
whereas, the Greeks, unfortunately, from the
despotism and suffering they have so long en
dured under the Turks, might look with an eye
of jealousy upon colonists, and might at first be
disposed to molest and impede them in their
rural occupations, and thus induce them to quit
the shores of Greece, and, by so doing, deter
others from going thither.
This latter circumstance is what every weU-
wisher of Greece must be particularly desirous
of avoiding ; for it would at once cause it to faU
into disesteem in the eyes of Europe, and it
would thus be left to its own fate, and a few
years would suffice for it to faU again into the
possession of the Turks : for foreign alliances
are not always to be trusted to ; — witness the
quadruple alliance in Spain.
To avoid all this, then, and particularly to
protect my countrymen, whom I might induce
to quit the shores of their happy country to
assist in the regeneration of Greece, I would
submit that the foUowing privileges be granted
to immigrators into Greece, namely, — first, that

OF GREECE. 335
the estate to be purchased, either from the
government or private individuals, should be se
cured under the government seal and guarantee ;
secondly, that the colony should form a community
of themselves, upon the basis of the Greek laws,
but that the mayor and the municipality should be
chosen from among themselves, the nomination
of them being subject to be ratified by the King ;
that they should appoint their own officers of the
peace, and that, in case of a delinquency, the
nomarch of the province should order the town to
deliver up the delinquent who might have taken
refuge among them, and it should be only in
case of refusal that the government would be
authorized to send their gensdarmes to seize the
prisoner ; and that, on the trial of the delinquent,
the jury should be composed of half Greeks and
half foreigners, and, if possible, the foreigners to
be of the same nation as the accused. Thirdly,
that the colonists should not pay the land-tax
(which is one tenth of the profits) for five years ;
that they should not be subject to be enlisted
into the army for ten years ; should be permitted
to follow their own mode of worship, and the
children born to them in Greece be brought up
in that religion which the parents might choose.

336 ON THE COLONIZATION
That petty crimes among themselves should be
decided by their own officers, excepting when
the dispute is between a Greek and a foreigner,
and then by one of the tribunals of the country.
These are the terms which I should propose
to the Greek government, and which I should
desire to have guaranteed by the minister of my
own country, who, upon any infringement of
them, should be entitled to have redress within
three months ; and if redress could not be ob
tained in that period, should be entitled to enforce
it by seizing the vessels of the state ; and if in
another three months redress was not obtained,
these vessels should be sold, to the amount of
the damage proved.
If it be aUeged that, in the above conditions, I
am asking too much, my reply is, that I do not
wish that the individuals I might induce to locate
themselves in Greece should find a less happy
home there than in their own country. Under
the arrangement above proposed, they would be
united among themselves, speak the same lan
guage, understand and feel an interest in one
another ; their ideas would be similar, and, seeing
their own countrymen continually about them,
they would almost fancy themselves in their own

OF GREECE. 337
country, and be contented and happy, and
consequently faithful supporters of the state
under which they live.
After a few years communication with the
Greeks, there will also be a gradual interchange
of feelings and ideas ; to aid which desirable end
I would have it imperative that the colonists
should employ a Greek master in their schools,
to teach the children the Greek language ; for
the knowledge of the language of the country
creates of itself a feeling of interest and fellowship
towards the inhabitants of that country, and
avoids a perpetual misconception of ideas and
sentiments. It may be asked, why take all these precau
tions in the case of colonists, while you recom
mend the rich settler to go singly among the
Greeks ?
The reply is, that a rich man entering the
country, and cultivating the estate by natives,
will be sure to meet with consideration and re
spect, because the peasantry will be daily receiv
ing benefits from him in some shape or other.
But, in the case of the colonists who would cul
tivate the land by their own labour, the peasant
would not be that immediate gainer. The money
VOL. II. z

338 ON THE COLONIZATION
of the rich colonist would be paid to the labourer
of his own country, whom he had brought out
with him, and although the peasant would not be
at all the loser, but, on the contrary, a great ulti
mate gainer, still he would not receive that im
mediate and tangible benefit, in the shape of one,
two, and three drachmas a day, for his hire,
wliich he does in the other case ; and this might
engender doubt, envy, and ill-will. All these are
to be avoided by the plan I propose ; and there
is nothing like preventing an ill ; it is better than
a thousand cures.
The above matters being arranged, on the plan
and principle proposed above, I would recom
mend foreigners to locate in the Morea, in
Negropont, and in Attica only ; which places are
always quiet, and not infested by the disturbances
that occasionally exist on the frontier.
With respect to Northern Greece, it is a point
worthy of consideration ; for though, in an agri
cultural point of view, it is the finest part of
Greece, yet until it be properly guarded, for at
least twenty miles from the frontier, it will always
be subject to disturbance from the robbers and
disaffected Turks.
I therefore suggest that two thousand troops,

OF GREECE. 339
British or French, as may be agreed upon, shall
be placed in the following manner : — five hun
dred at Zeitouni, five hundred at the Gulph of
Arta, and one thousand at different points of the
frontier ; and that in case any depredation or in
cursion be made by the Turks, redress be in
stantly demanded, and the offender given up ;
and if the authorities refuse to do this act of jus
tice, these troops must, in conjunction with the
Greek troops, enter the Turkish country, and
summarily take vengeance, by burning the
nearest town, as the Austrians did on their
boundaries with their neighbours, the Bosnian
Turks, a most lawless race. The Austrians had
made repeated complaints, which, being found to
be of no avail, they entered the Turkish territory
with a corps of two thousand men, and four
pieces of artillery, and signally chastised the
town whence all the depredations issued ; seizing
their cattle, destroying the whole of the town,
and seizing several influential individuals, who
were compelled to pay the expenses of the expe
dition itself. This had the desired effect, and
these predatory bands thenceforth made no fur
ther incursions into the Austrian territory.
z 2

340 ON THE COLONIZATION
But such a proceeding could only be effected by
the troops of some powerful nation, whose moral
influence would be great ; and the people on the
frontier should be made aware that ten thousand
more could be sent, if necessary to the desired
end. Under this arrangement, the Northern part of
Greece could be immediately colonized ; and these
troops should remain in the above position for
six, eight, or ten years, until there were about
two millions of inhabitants in Greece, and she
could defend herself on her own frontiers with
effect. It is, of course, but reasonable that Greece
should pay for these troops, since they are for
her benefit ; but as that country is at present poor,
she should pay for them in the following manner :
— Let us assume that the maximum cost of these
two thousand men would be 100,000Z. yearly.
In six years, this would amount to 600,000Z., and
in ten years, to a million. I would therefore
propose that the government to whom the troops
thus employed belonged, should pay for the
troops themselves, in the first instance, and that
the above sum of monev should be debited to

OF GREECE. 341
the Greek state, and added to the present na
tional debt ; — of course, paying five per cent, inte
rest. By these means, and the peace and pros
perity that would be their result, Greece would be
enabled to accumulate, through her colonists,
not only sufficient to pay off that million, but
all the other millions she has borrowed from
England, France, and Russia, — as I shall shew by
the sequel ; thus rendering herself at once a
respectable and powerful state : for any country
is powerful that is rich.
In addition to the above force, for the first
three years, to preserve the inviolability of the
frontiers of continental Greece, I would have a
very active Greek gendarmerie on the frontier,
and I would give strict orders to the nomarchs of
the provinces, and demarchs of the towns within
fifteen miles of the frontier, to allow no stranger
to remain more than three days in any town,
village, or hamlet, unless he could shew an un
exceptionable passport; and, even then, he
should only have permission to remain a few
days, unless his passport were renewed; and
this should not be granted unless the individual
were known to some respectable individual of the

342 ON THE COLONIZATION
town, who would be responsible for his good be
haviour.* Were affairs in Greece regulated in such a
manner as to protect colonists and settlers, the
French, the English, the Swiss, the Germans,
the Russians, and Italians, would immediately
flock thither. They would be among their own
friends, speaking their own language, and they
would insensibly initiate themselves into the ways
of the country, by casual intercourse with the
inhabitants. They would of course be subject to
the laws of the country, but those laws, being ad
ministered by a countryman, could in no case
appear harsh.
The government of Greece must not, under
these circumstances, feel any jealousy relative to
the advent of industrious foreigners, or entertain
any fear that they will take their country from
them. Were these foreigners aU of one nation,
the idea might be feasible ; but the great safeguard
to the Greeks will be in the multitude of various
* The above plan was pursued, in England, by that wise
monarch, Alfred, when England was covered with robbers,
and in the course of a year, not one was to be seen or
heard of.

OF GREECE. 343
nations that will locate among them ; no single
nation will have a sufficient body of colonists to
make head against the rest, in the prosecution of
any improper design. If these foreigners are
agriculturists, they will cultivate the waste lands,
and they will give one-tenth of the produce to
the state ; if they are mechanics, they will teach
the Greeks the arts and sciences of Europe, and
inspire them with that wise emulation which is
all they now want to enable them to regenerate
themselves. I consider nothing more essential to the
interests of a rising country, and particularly of
one that has just thrown off a barbarous des
potism of centuries, than that foreigners should
be introduced, to excite the inhabitants to emula
tion, and to throw off any bad habits that may
have been contracted from their task-masters.
Many of the better-informed Greeks having
read of the learning, civilization, and glory of
their ancestors, have imparted this to others of
their countrymen who are not so intelligent or
well-informed, and who, by continually talking
of and admiring the deeds of their forefathers,
have almost imbibed an opinion, or rather a sen
timent, that they themselves are on an intel-

344 ON THE COLONIZATION
lectual level with them ; and, consequently, that
no further energy of action is necessary to put
them on a par with other nations. I do not im
pute this as a fault common to the Greeks only ;
it is a fault to which all mankind are subject.
A continual repetition of the same thing induces
a belief in it. The Chinese are fuUy persuaded
that all other nations but themselves are bar
barians. The only way, therefore, in which this can be
remedied in Greece, is by the introduction of
foreigners from western Europe, whose superior
knowledge of the arts and sciences will obtain
for them, in the outset of things in Greece, a
preference and power, which will make the
Greeks arouse themselves, and urge them on to
that emulation which is so necessary to their
future welfare.
The foreign annual emigration from Italy,
France, Germany, and England, amounts to about
300,000 persons ; and the greater part of these
direct their way to the United States and the
Canadas, and many to Algiers.
Should allurements and security be held out in
Greece, no doubt great part of this number would
proceed thither, rather than wander to a distance
of 4000 miles.

OF GREECE. 345
Let us assume that* 200,000 out of the 300,000
European emigrants go to Greece ; in five years
Greece would have an accession of one million of
people,f and in twenty-five years she would have
five millions, her territory being large enough to
support seven millions ; for Greece is seven-
eighths the size of Ireland, which latter country
has eight milhons of inhabitants .{
But five miUions, with the addition of her
numerous sea-ports, and a fleet which she would
then acquire, would render Greece an independent
nation, — powerful in itself, and useful in the
community of kingdoms, as tending to assist in
keeping up the balance of power in the East.
Thus, in twenty - five years, Great Britain,
France, and Russia, would have brought Greece
to maturity ; she would no longer be a burthen to
them ; and, by her elevation, western Europe
would have discharged the debt they owed to that
country, for the arts and sciences they formerly
received from her.
* The only additional expense which this influx need
cause to England, would be an increase in the establishment
now so ably directed by Sir Edmund Lyons.
t Greece, according to the last census, has one million of
inhabitants. £ Ireland comprises twenty millions of acres.

346 ON THE COLONIZATION
It is said that Greece possesses 18,000,000 of
acres, or 36,000,000 of strematas ; but let us re
duce this to 30,000,000. Two-thirds of this belong
to the Greek government ; therefore, the national
property amounts to about 20,000,000 of stre
mata. I think that we may assume, that one-
haff of this land is cultivable; government would
therefore have at its disposition 10,000,000 stre
matas of fertile land.
The planting a strema of vines, and the at
tendant expenses for four years, amount, at the
maximum, to about 20Z. According to the best
opinions I have obtained from persons practi
cally conversant with the matter, this crop will pro
duce, upon an average, thirty per cent. annuaUy,
amounting to 6Z. the strema. One-tenth of this
goes to the government, amounting to 12s. the
strema; this, multiplied by ten millions, gives
the important sum of 6,000,000Z., without calcu
lating the revenue arising from that which belongs
to private individuals, and which, when cultivated,
would (calculating after the same manner) pro
duce 3,000,000Z. more of revenue. But from
this must be deducted the expenses of collection.
It will, however, be impossible to put the whole
of the land at once into a state of cultivation.

OF GREECE. 347
Let us assume, therefore, that, in ten years, one-
fifth of the public lands (two millions of stremata)
are cultivated by means of colonization; and all
the colonists paying their dimes to the govern
ment, this revenue will amount to 1,000,000Z.
The land which now belongs to private indivi
duals, amounting to ten millions of stremata, we
will also reduce to five milhons of cultivable land.
We may fairly suppose that one-fifth part of the
above, amounting to one million of stremata, will
be brought into cultivation in ten years, and par
ticularly if a bank is established. This will
produce 600,000Z. more to the revenue of the
land-tax, the whole amount being 1,800,000Z.,
from which must be deducted the expenses of
coUection. I have made the above calculation, assuming
that the profit of the land is thirty per cent.,
according to the calculations of competent persons.
But let us lower this profit to twenty per cent. ; this
will reduce the revenue to 1,200,000Z., and tak
ing off five per cent, for the collection, it would
be reduced to 1,140,000Z.
The present expenses of the nation, annuaUy,
are about twenty millions of drachmas ; about
715,000Z. a year; which we may take as the
average for the future years ; for any increasing

348 ON THE COLONIZATION
expenses would be met by the increase of duty
on exports and imports.* Deducting from
1,140,000?. the sum of 715,OOOZ., there will re
main in the government exchequer a surplus
revenue of 425,000Z. annually, which in fourteen
years would amount to about seven millions sterling.
To this must be added, the sale of two millions
of stremata, government land, which may be ave
raged, at the very lowest, at 1Z. the strema, which
would raise the coffers of the government to nine
millions. The sums of money already borrowed by
Greece are as follows : —
February 21, 1824, through Loughman
and O'Brien  £800,000
February 1 9, 1 825, through Messrs. Ricardo 2,000,000
May 7, 1832, of the three great powers,
sixty millions of francs  2,400,000
Add to this the keep of foreign troops on
the frontier  1,000,000
Total . . . £6,200,000

Greece, then, would, in fourteen years, be able
to pay off the above sum, and have still in her
* The duties on the exports and imports are now three
millions of drachmas.

OF GREECE. 349
strong chest 2,800,000Z., which she could dis
pose of in making roads and bridges all over the
country. I cannot too strongly recommend to the Greek
government, as a sincere weU-wisher to Greece,
that they should at once come forward, boldly
and unhesitatingly, and acknowledge the two
loans, amounting to 2,800,000Z., contracted by
Orlando and Luriottis.
I am well persuaded, from what I have heard
from all quarters in the city of London, that such
a measure would be of the greatest ultimate be
nefit to Greece, inasmuch as it would at once
raise the credit of Greece in the opinion of the
most wealthy nation in the world.
The young merchant rising in the world by
his own industry, not having capital to obtain
remittance of goods, endeavours to supply the
place of this by obtaining an excellent credit,
which is to him equal to gold ; and without this
credit he must either sink, or creep on slowly
and inefficiently. The same may be said with
respect to nations. They must first say to them
selves, am I powerful ? — am I wealthy ? If the
answer is in the negative, they must pin their
faith to some great and wealthy nation which
can render them so. And this adhesion and

350 ON THE COLONIZATION
attachment can only be obtained by the strictest
integrity, and the most faithful and inviolate
performance of all contracts in money affairs.
The kingdom of Greece should bear in mind
that she was called into existence to answer a
great end, — the regeneration of the east. Nations,
when they have been corrupted and vicious, sink
and decline in power. Such is the case with
Turkey; and I fear that all the efforts of the
present Sultan will be of little avail, unless his
successors for the next fifty years tread in his
footsteps ; — of which there may be great doubts.
Constantinople is very populous, and the country
round about also ; and the cutting away all the
prejudices of centuries will, if attainable, only
be like cutting away nearly the whole body
of the patient ; and, even if resolved on, can
only be carried into effect by a monarch at
the same time possessing the most philosophical
and the most statesmanlike mind. If every
Turk could be transported into Asia, and Eu
ropean Turkey colonized by Europeans from the
west, Constantinople would be a powerful state,
and in twenty years present a most vigorous
aspect. But, things being as they are, nothing
but a general extermination of the existing race
of Turks would effect the regeneration of Turkey ;

OF GREECE. 351
since a Turk is so stubborn an animal that
nothing will make him move forward but the
bayonet, exercised by a firm hand.
It may indeed be possible, that by supporting
Greece, a small state, Turkey might be excited
by envy and emulation, and rouse herself to fresh
exertion : for nothing is more galling to a su
perior than that an inferior should rival him in
strength ; and it causes the superior to endeavour
to soar still higher.
Let us see how it would be to the interest of
England and France to assist Greece.
Let us suppose that, twenty years hence, the pre
sent Sultan dies ; that there is a change in the
system ; and that the Turks and Russians quarrel
— than which nothing is more likely. The conse
quence would be that Russia, at that period, would
find herself much stronger than she is at pre
sent, and would attack and endeavour to take Con
stantinople. The English and French would oppose
this ; and an immense armament would be sent to
the DardaneUes, to assist the Turks. The troops
alone (say forty thousand men) would cost, with
the transport, about three millions the first year.
The fleet (of say thirty sail of the line) about
two millions. Besides this, very likely we might

352 ON THE COLONIZATION
lose half our fleet in beating the Russians; which
would cost another million more ; making, in the
whole, six millions for the first year. Nor
would the war end there. It might cause other
wars with other countries, and double the ex
pense ; and these wars, having once commenced,
might last for (say) six successive years; which is a
moderate period in comparison with the late war.
Thus, the government would expend in that time
above seventy millions ; independent of which,
the loss of trade, and other evils attending war,
would injuriously affect every individual in the
country. Now all this may be avoided by raising king
doms capable of forming a barrier against Russia,
in the east. Without infringing on the exist
ing rights of the Sultan, or upon the rights
of any other country, Great Britain has, on her
part, a full right to assist Greece with her wealth,
and protect her by her power.
Turkey, Greece, and Egypt must follow the
example of the small states in Germany, and
hold together, to resist the greater states, their
neighbours. Greece, possessing five millions,
would be enabled to have 100,000 troops at her
disposal ; and Egypt the same. These two power-

OF GREECE. 353
ful bodies, only two or three days' sail from Con
stantinople, would be such a scourge held in
terrorem against any encroachment on the Odessa
side, that the Russians would look twice before
they provoked a war against nations linked by a
common feeling against her, and at the same
time backed, if requisite, by Great Britain.
The ideas which I here venture to present
to the reader, may be crude and imperfect in
themselves ; but they will not be without their
use and value, if they induce other heads, more
capable than mine, to consider and devise the
proper and efficacious means of raising the power
of Greece and Turkey.

VOL. II. A A

APPENDIX I.

SKETCH OF THE GREEK REVOLUTION.
It may be useful if I here offer to the reader a
brief sketch of the Greek revolution ; for the
materials of which I am principally indebted to
General Gordon's work, a production which I
particularly recommend to any one who wishes
to have a detailed and minute account of Greek
affairs during that period.
The Society of the Hceteria (in which the Greek
revolution took its origin) was founded about
the commencement of the present century, with
the ostensible view of promoting education
among the Greeks, wherever they might be
found. All over the states of Europe there Avere
branches of it ; and the rich Greeks contributed
money, by which means the society was enabled
to carry its intentions into effect. The members
A A 2

356 SKETCH OF THE
of the society communicated to one another by
signs. In the year 1815, itwas formed into a
consistent body, and subsequently, in 1819, most
of the Moreote chieftains entered the society.
Wherever there are associations, there will
be a communication of ideas, and an investi
gation into the value of them ; and this was
the case with the primates of the Morea, who
sighed to throw off the yoke imposed upon them
by the Turks, and they waited for a favourable
opportunity to do so.
About the year 1820, the differences existed
between the famous Ali Pacha of Joanina and the
Sultan, and the plan of the Hceterists was to
embroil the Pacha still more with his master,
and the Pacha in his turn entreated the primates
of the Morea to excite the populace to take
arms ; which they promised to do as soon as they
possibly could. Several assemblies were held of
the primates and high clergy, of which the Porte
had intimation, and endeavoured to suppress the
growth of the revolution, the seeds of which were
still in embryo.
The islands of Hydra, Spezzia, and Ipsara,
openly revolted against the Sultan, and on the
19th of May, 1820, the first Turkish fleet, consist-

GREEK REVOLUTION. 357
ing of a line-of-battle ship, three frigates, a cor
vette, and two brigs, sailed from the Dardanelles,
to suppress this revolt.
The small fleets of these islands attacked and
defeated them on the fifth of June of the same
year, and forced them to retreat within the Darda
nelles. This irritated the Sultan, and he ordered
the Capitan Bey, Kara Ali, to hoist his flag in a
three decker, with four line-of-battle ships, five
frigates, and other vessels, amounting to thirty
sail. This fleet only made its appearance before
the islands, and sailed away again — not being
able to effect a reduction of the islands to the
subjection of the Porte.
In the meantime, the seeds of the revolution
were progressively ripening, and on tlie 2nd of
April, 1821, it broke out at Calavrita, a small town
in the Morea, where the Vayvode, his household,
and the Mussulman people, to the number of
two hundred, capitulated almost immediately.
Two days afterwards, fighting took place near
Patras, and the Turks retired within the citadel.
Prince Demetrius Ypsilanti arrived in Greece
in June following, and the Greeks nominated him
general-in-chief of their forces ; and Prince
Mavrocordato arrived on the 10th July, 1821,
he having previously held an important post at

358 SKETCH OF THE
the Court of Caradja, Hospodar of Wallachia.
These two distinguished individuals, who have
played so great a role in the Greek revolution,
were jealous of one another's influence, and sub
sequently their parties divided, and became the
principal factions of the country.
The Greek primates found it indispensable to
attack and rescue Tripolizza from the hands
of the Turks. That place contained about 25,000
people ; and the richest Turks in all Greece re
sided in it. The Greek army, commanded by
Ypsilanti, Colocotroni, the Bey of Maina, and
Anagnastoras, sat down before it ; and on the
5th of October, 1821, they took it by assault, and
pillaged the place ; 8000 of the besieged being
slain. Previous to this, the northern part of Greece,
Arta, Prevesa, Epirus, and Macedonia, had re
volted ; and subsequently the Souliotes, under
Marco Bozzaris and Karaiskaki, attacked Arta
on the 25th of November, 1821.
The siege of Athens, at the same time, was
commenced bythe Greeks, May 14th, 1821 ; but
they were obliged to raise it, Omer Pacha Vriones
having arrived with 1800 troops ; and Ypsilanti,
after the capture of Tripolizza, sat down with his
army before Napoli di Romania, 11th Nov., 1821.

GREEK REVOLUTION. 35!)
At the commencement of the year 1822, the
first assembly was held at Piada, in Epidaurus,
of which Mavrocordato was elected president.
The government was acknowledged to be re
publican, recognising two powers, executive and
legislative ; the first, composed of five members
presiding over the general administration, naming
the ministry, and having a voice in passing the
laws ; the second, consisting of seventy national
representatives, subject, like the former, to an
annual election, they having the sole right of
levying the taxes, which were to be imposed for
twelve months only, the legal period of their
own office.
This assembly decided upon the national
colours, which were light-blue and white ; and
the emblem of the phoenix, which Greece had
previously adopted, was replaced by the Athenian
owl, the bird of Minerva. To add to the success
of the Greeks, their flag waved on the Acroco
rinthus, the 26th of June, 1822, Ypsilanti having
besieged and taken it.
About this time, the rebeUion of Ah Pacha ter
minated with his death, and the Sultan was en
abled to direct all his forces against the Greeks ;
and the Turkish fleet put to sea in the middle of

360 SKETCH OF THE
the winter, to endeavour to surprise the island of
Hydra ; the Porte having employed some traitors
in the town who had promised to assist the under
taking. They were, however, foiled ; Miaulis,
at the head of the Hydriote fleet, sailed out
to attack them with fireships ; and the Turks
immediately fled, and took refuge in Zante.
I must now refer to one of the most dreadful
occurrences of the whole war. The Island of Scio,
which is not far from the main land of Asia Minor,
was at this time very flourishing : it contained
100,000 Greeks, 6000 Turks, 68 villages, 300
convents, and 700 churches. It appears that
the inhabitants had been excited by the Ipsa-
riotes, who were the avowed enemies of the
Turks, and in the month of March, 1822, the
people of the town arose, and drove the Turks
into the citadel.
This news soon flew to Constantinople, and
Kara Ali was sent with six line-of-battle ships,
ten frigates, and smaller vessels ; and he arrived
before this ill-fated place on the 11th of April,
1822. He landed several thousand men ; and at
the same time, Vehib Pacha, who was in the
citadel, made a sortie with the garrison.
Upon this commenced a scene equal in horror

GREEK REVOLUTION. 361
and bloodshed to the ransacking of Tripolizza;
9000 persons, of every age, and of both sexes,
being slain.
On the 16th the disorder was somewhat
abated, and the Sciotes were taken and chained
together like cattle ; and, by the end of May,
25,000 Sciotes had fallen victims to the fury of
the Turks, and 45,000 had been carried away
into slavery.
In consequence of this disaster, the Greek
islands fitted out a numerous fleet with brulots.
Canaris commanded one of them, and, while the
Turks were at anchor, attached his vessel to
Kara Ali's large vessel of war, which ultimately
blew up at two o'clock in the morning. The
Turks were furious at this, and made fresh
attacks upon the poor Sciotes ; they hunted them
in the viUages Uke wild beasts ; so that, by the
19th of June, 1822, there were not 1800 Greeks
upon the island, out of a population of 100,000.
Such a frightful destruction of mankind, in so
smaU a spot, is perhaps unparallelled in the
annals of history. The account given by General
Gordon, is, that of the 100,000 Greeks of
Scio, 45,000 were made slaves, and that 1800
only were left on the island ; consequently,

362 SKETCH OF THE
50,000 men, women, and children, must have
been massacred.
In the meantime, the Greeks carried on the war
in another quarter with much success. The
troops who were besieging the Acropolis of
Athens took possession of it on the 21st of June,
1822, the Turks being starved out.
As I have said before, the Sultan directed all
his energies to the quelling the insurrection ; and
in July, 1822, Mahmoud Dramali Pacha entered
the Morea with 30,000 troops ; and the Pacha re
gained the Acrocorinthus the same month that
he arrived, the Greeks having quitted it at his
approach. The Greek nation appointed Colocotroni com
mander-in-chief, in September, 1822 ; and it was
principally under his guidance that this large
and seemingly-overwhelming force was defeated.
The Pacha had taken possession of Napoli
and Argos, with his large force ; but finding
his provisions beginning to fail him, he deemed
it prudent to retire upon Corinth. In the
meantime, the Greeks under Ypsilanti and
Niketas had taken possession of the passes
called the Dervenaki, on the road to Corinth.
The Greeks had placed themselves so advan-

GREEK REVOLUTION. 363
tageously that the Turks could make no resist
ance ; and in attempting to get through this
pass, the Turks lost five thousand men. It is
said that the Turks sheathed their swords and
rode as fast as they could through the pass ; and
so much booty did the Greeks take, that camels
were sold at half-a-crown a-head, and fine horses
for a few shillings each.
On the 6th of October, 1822, Odysseus was
made Dictator of Eastern Greece, and Ghouras
received the command of the Acropolis ; and a
few days afterwards, Omer Vriones laid the first
siege to Missolonghi.
The first assault was made the 5th of January,
1823, when the Turks thought that the Greeks
would be at prayers ; for it is the eve of the
Grecian Christmas ; but the President, Mavro
cordato had got intimation of it, and repulsed
them. At the moment in question, the state of the
Morea was as follows : — Mahmoud Dramali lay
at Corinth ; Omer Vriones besieged Missolonghi ;
Mehemet Pacha, after defeating Odysseus, occu
pied the intermediate point of Salona ; Yussuff,
the Captain Pacha, was tranquil possessor of

364 SKETCH OF THE
Patras and Lepanto, and thus held in his hands
the navigation of the Corinthian gulf. The
united Turkish force amounted to thirty thou
sand men ; that of the Greeks, to ten thousand.
We have now arrived at the year 1823, and
must be allowed to return to the last three
months of the year 1822, to make mention of
some of the Greek naval exploits.
On the 20th of October, the Turkish fleet
cruized about the Archipelago to frighten the
islanders, and after some time they anchored at
Tenedos. Two fire-ships, the one commanded by the
brave Canaris, the other by a Hydriote, made
use of the following ruse : — They both hoisted
Turkish colours, and fled from the Greek fleet
with which they were in company, as though
pursued by them. The Greek fleet fired at them,
and pursued them close to the mouth of the har
bour of Tenedos. The Turks, deceived by this
ruse, thinking Canaris and the Hydriote were
Turkish vessels, allowed them to come close
under their stern, and even protected them by
firing on the pursuing fleet. In the meantime,
Canaris ran his vessel on board a ship of the line,

GREEK REVOLUTION. 365
and it was soon enveloped in flame and smoke,
and it blew up shortly afterwards with one thou
sand six hundred persons on board.
While Canaris was doing this, the Hydriote laid
his firfe-ship close to the Captain Pacha's vessel
of the line, but he did not succeed in attaching
the brulot to it, and the vessel escaped.
The Turkish Admiral was so astounded at the
above event, that he instantly left the shores of
Tenedos, and fled to the Dardanelles. Thus Ca
naris, in the campaign of 1822, had exterminated,
by his own valour, three thousand Turks.
To return to the Morea: on the 11th of De
cember, 1822, the Greeks took possession of
the Palamedes, the fortress of Napoli, the Turks
being starved out.
The term of the provisional government installed
at Piada, in Epidaurus, had now expired ; and in
February and March, 1823, the Greek deputies
met together at Astros (the second national
assembly) , and nominated Pietro Bey President ;
and Mavrocordato accepted the office of Secre
tary of State. This assembly closed on the 28th
of April, 1823, after a violent session; its acts
being signed by two hundred and sixty deputies.
Colocotroni now commanded in the Morea ;

366 SKETCH OF THE
Marco, Bozzaris in Western Greece; and Odysseus
in Eastern Greece.
Athens was again the scene of contention ;
for in August, 1823, Yussuff and Omer Pacha
came before it with a body of men ; but they
quickly retreated.
It was on the 20th of August of the same
year, that the gallant Marco Bozzaris arrived at
the small village of Karpenisi, and encamped,
with one thousand two hundred men, two hours'
march from the van-guard of the Pacha of
Scodra, which was posted in a meadow, under the
orders of Jeladin Bey, the nephew of the Pacha —
the latter force amounting to eight thousand men.
Marco Bozzaris divided his one thousand two
hundred men into three bodies, and he him
self led the centre, composed of three hundred
and fifty men, and at twelve o'clock at night he
entered with this small body into the centre of
the Turkish army, the wings not coming up to
his assistance. Great slaughter ensued, in which
eight hundred of the Turks were killed, and of
the Greeks only thirteen, — but among this latter
number was Marco Bozzaris.
The fall of this chief was a grievous loss to the
Greek cause, and all Greece mourned his fate.

GREEK REVOLUTION. 367
He was buried, on the 22nd of August, at Mis
solonghi. On the 19th of October, 1823, the second
siege of Missolonghi took place, under Mustai
Pacha ; but it was raised in November following,
the Pacha marching towards Epirus.
The most remarkable event that took place in
Greece, during this year, was the arrival of Lord
Byron in that country, on the 3rd of August,
1823. Having electrified the whole world by his
pen, in favour of the Greek cause, he now
arrived, in the hour of danger, to assist it with
his purse and his sword; and at this crisis,
when Greece was in a state of the greatest need,
he generously lent her four thousand pounds
from his own pocket.
Byron's arrival in Greece worked wonders for
that country. His presence in that classic soil
had not only tended to throw a charm over the
proceedings of that people, but it had produced
a much greater effect, — it had aroused the feelings
and energies of the British nation ; and, in conse
quence, in April, 1824, a sum of money, part of
a loan, was forwarded from England.
It appears that, on the 3rd of March, 1823,
a meeting had been held at the Crown and
Anchor Tavern, (Mr. J. Bowring the Secretary,)

368 SKETCH OF THE
and circulars were sent round, soliciting suc
cours for the Greeks. But though considerable
contributions were obtained, their amount could
do but little good, and it was deemed better to
assist her by a loan. Mr. Blaquiere was therefore
commissioned to go to Greece; and he left
London, in company with Luriottis, and arrived
at Trippolizza, May 3rd foUowing.
Mr. Blaquiere* advised the Greek government
to send deputies to England ; and Orlando and
Luriottis were appointed. They arrived in
London, 26th January, 1824.
These gentlemen signed a contract at the Man
sion-house, on the 21st of February, 1824, with
the firm of Loughman and O'Brien, for a loan of
800.000Z. at the rate of 59Z. for 100Z. stock, bearing
5Z. per cent, interest to commence from the 1st of
January, 1824. Two years' interest was reserved,
and a sinking fund estabhshed of 8000Z. annually,
under the control of Messrs. Hume, Ellice, and
Loughman. All the national property of Greece,
generally, and the proceeds of the customs,
fisheries, and salt-works, were assigned as secu
rity to the lenders ; and after every deduction
* This gentleman, by his subsequent zealous exertions,
rendered great services to the Greek nation.

GREEK REVOLUTION. 369
for the expenses of raising the loan, the sum of
280,000Z. was made available for Greece.
The first instalment, of 40,000/., was despatched
from England on the 31st of March, 1824, on
board a fast-sailing brig, in which Mr. Blaquiere
took his passage, and the money was made sub
ject to a mixed commission, composed of Lord
Byron, Colonel Stanhope, and Lazare Con
duriotti. The vessel reached Zante on the 24th of
April foUowing, but unfortunately Lord Byron
had died at Missolonghi, five days previously, on
the 19th of April. This caused some confusion ;
but after a time the money was paid over to the
Greek authorities.
The death of Byron was a deep misfortune for
Greece ; aU classes, from the highest to the lowest,
deemed it so ; and his funeral was most nume
rously attended by Greek mourners ; in addition
to which a splendid discourse was uttered by
Mr. Spiridion Tricoupi, and which I have pre
viously referred to.
About the month of June, 1824, the Turkish
arms predominated in the islands, and the ill-
fated island of Ipsara fell a victim to their fury.
This island is but a rock, but the Ipsariotes were
VOL. II. B B

370 SKETCH OF THE
devoted to it, and from it they dealt their blows
upon the Turks, and were as much dreaded by
them as the Knights of Malta were in former
days. Their island was therefore particularly
marked for vengeance. About 4,000 Ipsariotes
were destroyed ; and the remainder, amounting
to about 6,000 or 7,000, fled in their vessels, and
located in Egina.
The civil administration of Greece at this
period was under the government of George
Conduriotti, who had been nominated President
in January, 1824 ; but the Moreotes, with Colo
cotroni at their head, were in arms against the
executive. Notwithstanding the recent loan, it was found
requisite to raise another, to meet the exigencies
of the war, and Orlando and Luriottis, on the
19th of February, 1825, contracted a second loan
with the house of Ricardo, for 2,00Q,000Z. sterling, ,
at the rate of 55Z. 10*. for the 100Z.
On the 23rd of February of the same year, the
famous Ibrahim Pacha landed at Modon in the
Morea, with 4,000 infantry, and 4,000 cavalry,
and then sent back the fleet to Suda in Candia, —
whence it returned on the 13th of March with
7,000 troops to add to his force. Ibrahim took pos-

GREEK REVOLUTION. 371
session of Navarin in the May following, and
estabhshed his head quarters there. The Greeks,
with Colocotroni at their head, who held these
Egyptians in the greatest contempt, soon had
reason to think otherwise of them ; for in the first
general engagement, the European disciphne that
had been introduced into the Egyptian army
prevaUed over the irregular mode of Greek fight
ing, and Colocotroni and his corps were dread-
fuUy beaten. The Pacha's troops were augmented
on the 5th of July by 5,000 Arnauts, thus
sweUing his numbers to 24,000 men ; an army
quite sufficient to keep the Greeks in subjection.
With respect to the proceedings in Northern
Greece, Redschid Pacha was appointed by the
Sultan over the western provinces of the em
pire; and in August, 1825, he commenced the
last siege of Missolonghi ; and in the first
week of the year 1826, Ibrahim Pacha (whose
troops had been increased by 10,000 men from
Alexandria) marched in person to invest Misso
longhi, and took a position to the left of Redschid
Pacha, who had been before it for six months,
and who had destroyed, in that time, 1,500
Greeks. On the 15th January, 1826, Ibrahim opened
B B 2

372 SKETCH OF THE
his fire, and by the 17th of February he had ap->
proached within 400 yards of the town ; his force
amounting to 15,000 men, and that of Redschid
Pacha to 10,000 men.
On the three days previous to the assault on
the 27th of February, 8,000 shot and shells were
thrown into the town ; and on the 27th, at two in
the morning, the Turks assaulted it, but were
completely repulsed. The Turks then tried to
obtain possession of Vassiladi ; and on the sixth
of March, by means of rafts, they succeeded.
On the 6th April, Hussein Bey advanced, at
the head of two regiments of Arabs, through the
swamps ; they were, however, defeated, losing at
least 1000 in the attack. All these gallant
efforts of the Greeks, in defending the town,
however, were of no avail ; for, on the 23rd April,
1826, the Turks and Egyptians assaulted and
took Missolonghi ; at which time it contained
9000 inhabitants, — 3000 of them were killed,
and about 4000 women and children were made
slaves ; the remainder escaped.
To revert back to the civil administration. —
On the 1st May, 1825, Greece put herself under
the protection of Great Britain. This act was
approved of by the legislature, the vice-president,

GREEK REVOLUTION. 373
and by Mavrocordato, and a vast majority of the
senators ; but Conduriotti did not sign it. The
eldest son of Admiral Miaulis was despatched
to London with the document, where he arrived
in October following, being also instructed to ask
for Prince Leopold as their sovereign. To this
document a protest was made by General Roche,
a Frenchman, and Mr. Washington, an Ame
rican. After the above act, an assembly was con
vened to meet at Napoli, in November, 1825.
The third congress at Piada, in Epidaurus, had
opened on the 18th April, 1826. The assembly
consisted of a hundred and twenty-seven mem
bers, under the presidency of Panouzzos Notaras.
Two commissions were named : the one execu
tive, with eleven members, Andreas Zaimi, pre
sident ; the other legislative, with the Archbishop
of Patras at their head. During this time, Grivas
commanded the Palamede, and Fotomarra the
lower fort, Itchkali. Colocotroni at this time
was commander-in-chief at the Morea, and Col-
letti was rising in importance, the Roumeliotes
being entirely at his devotion.
On the 22nd February, 1826, the last instal
ment of the second loan, amounting to 50,000Z.,

374 SKETCH OF THE
arrived at Napoli. The deputies had acted for
the best, and had placed large sums of money
apart, for the purchase of steam-boats, and two
frigates. But circumstances, entirely out of their
control, foiled the realization of their hopes ; and
consequently aU the armament for which the
money was destined did not reach Greece.
Many things conspired at that moment to neu
tralize the efforts of every weU wisher of Greece.
To return, however, to Ibrahim Pacha; his
army of 24,000 Arabs had dwindled down to
8,000, and with these he entered Tripolizza ;
and after ravaging the Morea, he returned to
winter quarters at Modon, Nov. 24, 1826.
I shall now narrate the proceedings in Northern
Greece. Omer Pacha arrived before Athens on
the 21st June, 1826, with one thousand Turks,
and attacked Athens on the 1 1th July foUowing ;
and on the 28th July, Kiutahi Pacha established
his head quarters at Patissia. Ghouras, the Greek
chieftain, was at that time in possession of the
Acropolis of Athens. To assist the latter in op
posing Kiutahi Pacha, the executive council
confided to Karaiskaki the command of aU the
forces beyond the isthmus. He left Napoh in
July, 1826, with six hundred men, and, pro-

GREEK REVOLUTION. 375
ceeding to Eleusis, put himself at the head of
the corps of Vasso, Griziotti, and Panourias.
Colonel Favier also had under his command
1,300 regulars. The army, amounting to 3,500,
at sunrise on the 18th attacked the Turks at
Khaidari, taking two standards. Redschid * Pa
cha, in his turn, attacked Favier and Karaiskaki,
and, beating them, made them retreat to Eleusis.
The Pacha then continued the siege, and dis
charged against the devoted Parthenon, in the
course of August, 1826, two thousand one hun
dred and twenty cannon baUs, and nine hundred
and fifty-six sheUs. In the month following,
Ghouras was killed, while going his rounds ; and
the Greeks being in want of powder, Colonel
Favier and Pisa entered Athens, Dec. 13, 1826,
from the port of Munychia, with a body of men
carrying powder for the use of the garrison.
It was during this last siege of Athens that
great part of the temple of Erectheus was de
stroyed ; the roof of which killed in its fall
several Greek ladies.
The year 1827 had now arrived, and General
• Church and Lord Cochrane arrived in the month
* Sometimes called Kiutahi Pacha.

376 SKETCH OF THE
of March of that year, at which time there were
two factions in Greece, — one part of the repre
sentatives residing at Egina, the other at Her-
mione. Upon the arrival of the above com
manders, the factions coalesced into a fourth
national congress, at Damala, in April, 1827,
and Zaimi, with the old executive, laid down
their power.
Sisini was president of this assembly, and
Lord Cochrane, General Church, and Count
Capo d'Istrias, were duly elected, the first as
Admiral in chief, the second as General in chief,
the third as President of Greece, for seven years ;
and until the arrival of the latter, the presidency
was put in commission, — George Mavromichali,
John Milaitis, and John Nakos, being appointed.
During this session a law was passed, that the
clergy should not act as legislators ; and it also
authorized Capo d'Istrias to contract a loan for
1,000,000Z. sterling ; and the assembly dissolved
itself on the 17th May, 1827.
In the meantime, the Phalerum and the Piraeus
were taken possession of by the Greeks, with
the view of coUecting there an army for the pur
pose of relieving Athens. General Gordon and
Captain Hastings distinguished themselves here.

GREEK REVOLUTION. 377
Karaiskaki was approaching with a body of
troops, and in the month of March he had nearly
10,000 men under his command.
The battle of Athens then took place ; and on
the 5th June, 1827, the Acropolis surrendered to
the Turks, — the garrison marching out with their
arms, and being allowed to go where they wished.
This was effected through the mediation of Ad
miral de Rigny. Consequent on the loss of the
above battle was the treaty of the 6 th July, 1827,
guaranteeing the integrity of Greece.
WhUe this was going on, Grivas and Foto-
marra were carrying on a civil war at Napoli,
between the fort Palamede and fort Itchkali, much
to the annoyance of every one.
At length the whole drama was nearly wound
up by the battle of Navarino, which took place
on the 20th October following, and which libe
rated Greece.
The Sultan, however, was obstinate, and would
not cede Greece ; in consequence of which the
Greeks were allowed to carry on the war ; and
another attempt was made on Scio, which
failed. The three ambassadors left Constantinople
on the 8th December, 1827, and repaired to
Poros, the Grecian head-quarters for the fleet.

378 SKETCH OF THE
Count Capo d'Istrias arrived in Greece in Ja
nuary, 1828 ; and an assembly was convened at
Argos, which was the fifth national assembly in
Greece. Capo d'Istrias remained in the govern
ment, but the Allied Powers, in accordance with
the wishes of the Greek people, nominated his
Royal Highness Prince Leopold, in February,
1830, sovereign of Greece.
This not according with the views of Count Capo
d'Istrias, it is reported that he magnified the diffi
culties to be encountered ; and Prince Leopold re
signed the crown in May foUowing. Count Capo
d'Istrias remained in power until his death, which
took place at the hands of the two Mavromichali,
at Napoli, in August, 1831.*
On the 7th May, 1832, a treaty was concluded
between the three powers and Bavaria, in which
Prince Otho, of Bavaria, the second son of the
King, was chosen King of Greece, which choice
his father, as his guardian, accepted on his behalf,
27th May, 1832. In the same treaty a loan of
sixty millions of francs was guaranteed to Greece.
King Otho was proclaimed, at Napoli, on the
30th of August, 1832.
* See vol. i., p. 136.

GREEK REVOLUTION. 379
The King arrived at Napoli 6th February, 1833,
and, during the first period of the minority,
- Count Armansperg, M. Maurer, and M. Abel,
three Bavarians, composed the regency ; but,
after a short time, the two latter were recalled,
their substitutes being Baron de Kobel and
General Heideck. *
Finally, his Majesty, Otho I., having on the
1st June, 1835, reached his twentieth year, (the
time fixed for his attaining his majority,) he took
the reins of government into his own hand, dis
solved the regency, and placed his confidence in
Count Armansperg, to whom he gave the title of
Arch-chancellor. Also, upon assuming the reins
of power, the King granted pardon and amnesty
to all persons who were lying under imputation
of treason to the government ; and he even went
so far as to bestow upon them again their former
honours. Nothing could shew more wisdom than
this act, or evince a mind of better promise. The
strong arm of the law had proved, by their im
prisonment, that they could be rendered incapable
of doing harm ; and now, at an opportune period,
mercy was granted to them. The happy result
has been, that the individuals of whom I am
speaking are now among his Majesty's most faith-

380 SKETCH OF THE GREEK REVOLUTION.
ful subjects. Having perceived that they had been
made the dupes of others, they wiU not again
hazard their estates in attempting to subvert a
monarchy which has been established and ap
proved by three of the first powers in Europe.

381

APPENDIX II.
The following extract from a newspaper, under
date June 4, 1837, refers to the completion of
a project more than once referred to in detail
in the foregoing pages. The credit (whatever it
may be) that is due to the originating of that pro
ject wiU scarcely be denied to the author of the
preceding work, even by those who have been
more fortunate than himself in carrying it into
effect. " French Steam -Packets. — The post-office
steam-packets, established for the purpose of
keeping up a regular communication between
MarseUles and the ports of the Levant, com
menced their service on the 1st instant. They
will depart and return, without interruption,
every ten days. The departure from Marseilles
wiU take place on the 1st, 11th, and 21st of
each month ; and from Constantinople on the
6th, 16th, and 26th. The steam-packets will

382 FRENCH STEAM-PACKETS.
touch at Leghorn, Civitta Vecchia, Naples, Malta,
Syra, Athens, and Smyrna, both going out and
returning home. The communications between
Greece and Egypt wiU be effected by means of
another hne of packets, which wiU leave Alexan
dria on the 6th, 16th, and 26th; and Athens on
the 1st, 11th, and 21st of each month. These
packets wiU touch at Syra, one arriving there on
the same day with those arriving from MarseUles
and returning from Constantinople ; so that the
packet coming from Alexandria may immediately
take up passengers and despatches brought by
the other packets, to their destination at Athens.
The passengers and despatches going to Alexan
dria will wait at Syra, until the second day, the
arrival of the packet coming from Athens and
going on to Alexandria.
" Ten packets, of 160 horse power each, with
a crew of forty- two men, and commanded by an
officer of the royal French navy, are appointed to
the service of the two hnes, from MarseUles to
Athens and Constantinople, and from Alexandria
to Athens." THE END.

T. C. Savill, Printer, 107, St. Martin's Lane, Charing Cross.

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