YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY jaiittiiiiiiiiiii il; 111 II I lillU ¦ I wiP IHlfflWi^^V ^ ¦^^^a&nn^^l Interior of a Bui-man Temple, Malay'Street, Maulroam. SIX MONTHS IN BRITISH BURMAH: OB, INDIA BEYOND THE GANGES W 1857. BY CHRISTOPHER T. WINTER, RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET. $u6Usfjer in Ortrinats to |§er Majesty. 1858. WESTMINSTER : PRINTED BY J. B. NICHOLS AND SONS, 25, PARLIAMENT STREET. CONTENTS. PAGE Preface xi CHAPTER I. Glance at Calcutta — Ackyab — Rangoon — Shoay Dagon Pagoda — The Great Bell of Rangoon . 1 CHAPTER n. The Province of Pegu — Its Area and Fiscal Divisions — The Irrawaddy — The Inhabitants of Pegu — The Administration of the Province — Revenue and Expenditure . . . . . . .14 CHAPTER m. The Tenasserim Provinces — Amherst — Approach to Maulmain — Timber-yards and Elephants — Pa goda-crowned Hills — Holy Poles or Burman Flag- CHAPTER IV. View from the Great Pagoda — The Great Pagoda and Temples — Inscription on the Great Bell — The Two Classes of Religious Edifices — Sketch of the Exterior of a Boodhist Temple — Interior of the 19 IV CONTENTS. PAGE same — Characteristics of the Burman Religion — Description of Maulmain — Population of the Te nasserim Provinces — Unroofing of the Houses at Maulmain . . . .26 CHAPTER V. Administration of the Tenasserim Provinces — The Officers to whom it is entrusted — Scenery in the Neighbourhood of Maulmain — Damathat — Yearly Visit of the Shans to Maulmain — Their Ponies and Boxes ....... 40 CHAPTER VI. Difficulty of communication between Maulmain and the Southern Provinces of British Burmah — The Moscos — The Reef called " The Cows" — Scenery of the Tavoy River — Town of Tavoy — The Quay and Pier — Sketch of the principal Zayat — Bur- man Life and Manners at Tavoy . . 46 CHAPTER VH. The Burmans ethnologicaUy considered — Costume of the Burmans — Tatooing — Ear-ornaments — Smoking ..... .54 CHAPTER VIH. Siam Hill — Early Walks in Burmah — Auriferous nature of the Soil — Loadstone Rock . . .58 CONTENTS. V PAGE CHAPTER IX. Burman Road-side Watering-places and Flagstaff's . 64 CHAPTER X. Religious Festivals of the Burmans — Barges with Native Bands and Dancing-girls — Contrast be tween the Appearance and Costume of the Bur mans on Ordinary and Extraordinary Occasions — A Burman Crowd — Devotions of the People at the Pagodas and Temples — An aged Woman wor shipping . ...... 68 CHAPTER XI. Buffalo Fights — Boat-racing — Rites of Cremation — Burman Pooay ....... 78 CHAPTER XH. Climate — South-west Monsoon — Time of its com mencement and the period of its duration — Average fall of Rain — Temperature during the Rains — Cool and Hot Seasons — Their respective average Tem peratures . . ..... 97 CHAPTER XIH. The principal Exports — Teak Trees — Varieties — Number of Trees to be procured annually from the Forests — Rice — Its quality — The Time of Year to sow the Paddy — Rice Harvest — Agricultural Im plements of the Burmans — Valuable Dyes . 102 yi CONTENTS. PAGE CHAPTER XIV. Mineral Resources of the Tenasserim Provinces 105 CHAPTER XV. Flora of the Tenasserim Provinces — The Palm Tribe — The Bamboo — Wood-oil Tree — Ornamental Trees — Fruits — Mangosteen — Mango — Dorian — Plantain — Pine-apple — Oranges — Jack — Cereal Grasses — Timber Trees . . • .112 CHAPTER XVI. Zoology of the Tenasserim Provinces — Carnivorous Mammalia, &c. . . ... 125 CHAPTER XVH. Ornithology of the Tenasserim Provinces — Thirty species of Rapacious Birds — Vultures — Eagles, &c. — Birds with a notch in their bills — Bulbouls — Broadbills, &c. — The Paradise Edolius — King- crow — Thrushes — Mango-bird — Oriole — Conic- billed Birds — Crows — Pies — Mynahs — Starlings — Finches — Hornbills, &c. — Habits of the Crows — Black Mynah as a talking-bird — Habits of the Hornbill — Scansores or Climbing Birds — Parro- keets — Woodpeckers — The Crow-pheasant — Suc torial Birds — Wide-mouthed Birds — Bee-eaters — Rollers — Kingfishers, &c. — Gallinaceous Birds — CONTENTS. Vii PAGE Peacocks — Pheasants — Jungle-fowl, &c. — Wad- ing-birds — Herons, &c. — The White Paddy-bird — Swimming-birds — Wild Ducks — Teal — Peli cans, &c. .... . . 135 CHAPTER XVIII. Fish found in the waters of the Tenasserim Provinces — Perch— Indian Whiting — Mullet — Mango-fish — Carp family — Prawns of enormous size — Reptiles — Tortoise tribe — Two species of Crocodile — One of these identical with the Crocodile of the Nile — Natives often carried off by them — House-lizards — The Touktay — The little Geckos — Burman legend about them — Poisonous Serpents — Innocu ous Serpents — Karen legend about the Python and poisonous Serpents — Entomology of the Pro vinces — The Lac Insect — Blister-fly — Beetles — Their Wing-cases used as Ornaments — Phantom Insects — White Ants — Their habits — Butterflies . 144 CHAPTER XIX. The Boodhism of Burmah — Its leading Doctrines — The " Nats" — Method of propitiating the Wicked Nats — Gau-da-ma — The Burman Priests or Pon- gyees — The Objects of the Brotherhood — The Ceremony of making a Pon-gyee — Government of the Kyoungs or Monasteries — The five additional Vlll CONTENTS. PAGE Commandments incumbent on the Pon-gyees — The Practice of Confession — The Kyoungs the National Schools of Burmah . . 156 CHAPTER XX. Language and Alphabet of the Burmans — Peculiar form of the Burman character — Literature — Speci mens — A Kingdom destroyed by a drop of Honey — The Rich Man's Daughter and. her three Lovers — The Potter and the Washerman . . 172 CHAPTER XXI. Tribes inhabiting the Tenasserim Provinces — The Talaings — Selungs — Karens — Their remarkable traditions — Specimen — Curious instance of zeal outstripping knowledge amongst the Pwo Karens — Karen School at Tavoy . . . . 186 CHAPTER XXII. Burman War of 1824-6 — Causes which led to it — The Andaman Islands and their Inhabitants — The British land and take possession of Rangoon — Actions at Yanghoo and Joazoang — Defeat of the Burmans .... . . 197 CHAPTER XXIII. The Burmans pretend to negotiate — Advance of the British on Kemmendine, and Storming of the Ad vanced Works — Kemmendine taken possession of Sickness in the British Camp — Storming of Kum- CONTENTS. IX PAGE meroot — Expedition against Tavoy and Mergui — The Princes of Tongho and Sarawaddy join the Burman Army — Syriam captured — Attack of the " Invulnerables " on the Pagoda — Scarcity of fresh Provisions — Descent upon Martaban and Yeh — A Detachment advances to Pegu . . . .211 CHAPTER XXIV. Advance of Maha Bandoola and his Army — Actions before Rangoon — Fire-rafts — The Maha Bandoola retires with his Army and takes up his position at Kokeen — Storming of the Works by the British Troops — The Burman Army driven from their Fortifications — The Maha Bandoola reorganises his Army at Donoobew ..... 225 CHAPTER XXV. The Inhabitants of Rangoon return to the city — Arrival of fresh Troops — The British Forces march on Donoobew— Repulse of General Cotton The British Columns effect a junction — Prepare to Storm Donoobew — Death of Maha Bandoola and Evacuation of Donoobew by the Burman Army, 2nd of April — The March resumed April 4th — Pretended Negotiation — Evacuation of Prome — Which city the British enter 25th of April — Opinions entertained by the Burmans of the British Soldiers— The Army enters into Winter Quarters . 235 b CONTENTS. PAGE CHAPTER XXVI. Burman Head-quarters at Meaday — Shan Female Warriors — Sir A. Campbell makes proposals for Peace to the Burman Monarch — Deputies arrive at the British Camp — An Armistice concluded — The British Commander-in-Chief meets the Bur man Chief at Neoung-ben-zeik — The Truce ex tended to the third of November — Letter of the Kee-Woon-gyee to Sir A. Campbell — Hostilities resumed ........ 250 CHAPTER XXVII. Defeat of the Left Wing of the Burman Army at Sembike — Storming of the Heights of Nepadee — Centre and Right Wing dispersed — The British Army resumes its March ninth of December — Scene at Meaday — The Burmans send in a flag of Truce — Storming and Destruction of Melloon . 259 CHAPTER XXVIII. The British Forces push onwards — Arrival of Doc tors Price and Sandford with a message from the Burman King — He accepts the services of the " King of Hell"— Defeat of his Troops at Pagan- Mew — The British Army encamps at Yandaboo — Ratification of the Treaty of Peace— Terms of the Treaty— Court Historian's Account of the War — War of 1852 270 PREFACE. The following pages are the result of a six- months' residence in the countries of which they treat. During that time I made the people — their manners, customs, institutions, and religion — my particular study. I wan dered, sketch-book in hand, amongst the pagodas and temples, and joined the natives in their festivals and amusements as far as a looker-on can be said to do so. I also obtained much valuable information from gentlemen long resident in the country, whose ability to contribute important information was only equalled by their readiness to communicate the result of their experience. I would express a hope that, at a time Xll PREFACE. when information respecting our Eastern dominions has received additional interest from late events, the accompanying sketch of British Burmah will not prove unaccept able, and may contribute its mite towards the diffusion of accurate knowledge of that part of our East Indian possessions. I should also mention that these recollec tions have been written during the confusion and interruptions incident to a sea-voyage ; and I trust that this may be some excuse for the many shortcomings that the intelligent reader will doubtless discover. C. T. W. August 1858. SIX MONTHS IN BRITISH BURMAH. CHAPTER I. Glance at Calcutta — Ackyab — Rangoon — Shoay Dagon Pagoda — The Great Bell of Rangoon, I had glanced at Calcutta, and looked with no little interest on the motley population, and the many curious sights and sounds of that " city of palaces :" its stately buildings and flat-roofed luxurious houses, in which punkahs make a perpetual breeze, and in which etiolated ladies recline in darkened rooms, and are waited on by obsequious domestics, ever ready to answer the oft- B 2 CALCUTTA. repeated "qui hy?" its gay court and esplanade thronged by innumerable car riages, where the governor of millions of people, military celebrities, ci-devant native kings and princes, pensioned rajahs, rich native gentlemen, the sallow- complexioned old Indian, the youth fresh from England destined, according to Macaulay, to make a fortune or die of the liver-complaint, the fair English maiden and troops of European children with their dusky ayahs — all meet to listen to the military music, to enjoy the cool breeze and shades of evening, to see and to be seen. But the heat at this season of the year (the middle of April) is very op pressive in Calcutta even to the acclimated, whilst to the newly-arrived it is almost unsupportable. I was glad therefore to escape to Burmah — a country which, though nearer the line, is more healthy in climate, bolder and more diversified in scenery, and where the heat is tempered by refreshing breezes. It was a country, too, that I had already studied at a distance, and I wished " THE BOBE " IN THE GANGES. 3 to test my book-knowledge by actual ex perience. I embarked accordingly on board the steamer "Cape of Good Hope," bound for Ackyab, Eangoon, and Maulmain. Just before weighing anchor, the Hooghly was so obliging as to afford us a capital view of that wonderful tidal phenomenon known by the name of "the Bore," and its effect was illus trated by an unfortunate native boat which, presenting its bow at right-angles to the advancing wave, essayed to ride over the roaring water; but, as if to punish its temerity, it was tossed over like a nut- shell, and a moment after it was floating keel up wards, whilst its previous occupants were swimming with all speed towards the land. We quickly passed the flat but luxuriant shores of the muddy river, and gained the waters of the Bay of Bengal, which are also tinged for miles by the detritus brought down by the Ganges. This has been estimated by one of our first geologists as daily equal in bulk in the flood season to the largest of the Egyptian pyramids. B 2 4 ACKYAB. It was now an interesting study to the ethnologist to observe the different varieties of the human race included amongst our pas sengers. There was the "mild Hindoo"" from the burning plains of Bengal; Madras- sees, useful as domestic servants and valets ; Eurasians, or country-born half-castes ; Chinamen, who in many Eastern countries,- as shopkeepers and artizans, supplant to a great extent the more indolent natives ; Bur mans from the jungles of Ava ; Mhugs from the mountainous districts of Arracan. To» these may be added our cabin passengers: British officers, civil servants of the East India Company, merchants, American mis sionaries, and Italian Catholic priests. On the 29th of April, about twenty hours after leaving Calcutta, we entered the pretty harbour of Ackyab. The light -house is pic turesquely situated on a rocky islet, and the land-locked harbour is surrounded by a bold and well- wooded country. Here and there a bungalow, in which the European vegetates and sighs for his native land, peeps out from THE SHOAY DAGON PAGODA. O some shady retreat. The roads are good .and planted with umbrageous trees. At six a.m. on the morning of the 2nd of May we entered the Bangoon river ; one of the many branches by which the Irrawaddy — the great highway into the dominions of his golden-footed majesty of Burmah — empties itself into the sea. There on the left we noted the spot where the British forces landed at the commencement of the late war, and further up the river is a sacred grove where, according to the Burman sages, the next Boodh is to appear in about one thousand years. That object in the distance, glittering like a mass of gold amid the green foliage, is the richly-gilded Syriam pagoda. Here and there Burman villages may be seen on the river's bank. At length the great pile of the Shoay Dagon pagoda looms into view, looking like the giant guardian of the country. It is situated in north latitude 16° 47', east lon gitude 96° 13', and is no less celebrated for its antiquity and vastness than for its im- 6 BANGOON. portance in time of war, when it is used as a fort. Bangoon, the town adjacent, was founded or rebuilt by the great Alompra, the Burman conqueror, in 1755, and named by him "peace effected," or according to some " victory achieved," in commemoration of his conquests. In a commercial point of view it is the most important town of Pegu, and, before the late war, of the whole Burman empire. Built on the left bank of the eastern branch of the Irrawaddy, twenty-six miles from the sea, and possessing a continuous water communication with the upper pro vinces, its situation is most convenient for foreign trade. Rafts of valuable teak timber are floated down from the vast forests of Pegu and the mountainous districts of Ava. It presents great facilities for ship-building, which, indeed, has been carried on here since the year 1786. At spring tides the water rises twenty-one feet, and at neaps fifteen feet. The variation of the compass at Ran goon is 2° 48' easterly.* The native town is * It is the same at Maulmain. BANGOON. 7 of a very mean appearance, the houses being made chiefly of bamboo and the leaf of the water-palm ; but wood and tiles are being introduced for roofing. Just previous to my visit a most destructive fire had con sumed whole streets and bazaars, but they had grown up again bike so many mushrooms with astonishing rapidity. A great change has taken place in Rangoon since it has come under the dominion of the British, and large sums of money (more than eleven lakhs of rupees on the city, and about a lakh and a half on the cantonments) have been expended on its improvement. Capital roads and streets now intersect every part of the town, and mostly derive their names from their re spective breadths. Many good and spacious " puckah" houses, buildings of brick or stone, have been erected, most of which are occu pied by mercantile firms. Their gains are often large ; but they not unfrequently pay as high as three per cent, a month for money accommodation^ so that here, and also at Maulmain (where the rates of interest are 8 SHOAY DAGON PAGODA. equally high) money-lending or private bank ing is a most profitable business, as good security can generally be obtained. The most interesting object at Rangoon to the traveller is the great Shoay Dagon or Golden Dagon pagoda before alluded to, and I did not fail to pay a visit to this sacred shrine of the Burman, the holy sepulchre of the devout Boodhist. The foundation is said to have been laid two thousand three hun dred years ago. It lies about two miles north of the town, and is built on ground that rises gradually from the river- side till it attains a height of seventy or eighty feet above its previous level. The pagoda is a stupendous mass of solid masonry ; it stands on two terraces which face the four cardinal points. The upper one is 900 feet long and 685 feet broad ; the base of the building is octagonal, with a circumference of 1355 feet. The area on which it stands is 800 feet square, and is accessible on each side by stone steps, at the side of which are placed enormous grif fins ; the whole structure gradually tapers to SHOAY" DAGON PAGODA. 9 a spire, which is surmounted by the sacred Tee, a cap or crown of open iron- work twenty- six feet high, and hung round with little bells. It is one dazzling blaze of gold, and altogether forms a most magnificent object, its magnitude and massiveness being very remarkable ; and it uprears its lofty height from clusters of beautiful mango, cocoa-nut, and other Eastern trees. It is said to contain gold equal in weight to the body of a late Burman king. This celebrated pagoda de rives its peculiar sanctity, however, from being the depository, according to Burman tradition, of relics of the last four Boodhs, viz. the staff of Kan-tha-than, the water- dipper of Gau-na-gon, a garment of Ka-tha- pa, and eight hairs from the head of Gau- da-ma ! Burman pagodas are not temples, but monuments erected to the memory of Gau-da-ma, and are supposed to contain sacred relics ; they are consequently objects of worship to the Boodhist. All of them are built pretty much on the same plan, though varying in detail ; the base consists of one or 10 SHOAY DAGON PAGODA. more quadrangles, succeeded by a tapering bell-shaped structure, either round or form ing a polygon, the apex of which is crowned with the Tee or umbrella, and without that addition it would be considered incomplete. The building itself is invariably a solid mass of masonry constructed of bricks burnt in the sun, with an outer coating of plaster. In the rainy season many of these pagodas are nearly covered with ferns and other forms of vegetable life ; nor is this confined to the old and ruinous, for my attention has often been arrested by those in the course of erection, and I have observed with astonish ment a singular proof of the dampness of the climate, viz. that the unplastered bricks have been rapidly covered with luxuriant vegeta tion, which the builder leaves undisturbed till the return of the dry season, when he can complete his labours. The Golden Pagoda of Rangoon is sur rounded by numerous image-houses contain ing colossal idols of Gau-da-ma richly gilt ; indeed the quantity of gold expended on GREAT BELL 0E BANGOON. 11 these religious edifices is something enor mous. Not the least remarkable object in the immediate neighbourhood of this pagoda is the great bell of Rangoon, under which I was able to stand upright with ease. It has an inscription in the Burman character, cut in twelve bines of large letters round its circumference, which has been translated by the Rev. G. H. Hough. The con cluding words are as follows : " Eor this meritorious gift, replete with the virtue of beneficence, may he (the king who pre sented the bell) be conducted to Nieban, and obtain the destined blessing of Men, Nats, and Brahmas by means of divine per fection. May he obtain in his transmigra tions only the regal state among Men and Nats. May he have a pleasant voice, a voice heard at whatever place desired, like the voice of Kuthameng Ponnoka and Alamaka, when he speaks to terrify, and bike the me lodious voice of Karaweik, king of birds, when he speaks on subjects which Nats and Brahmas delight to hear. Whatever may be 12 GBEAT BELL 0E BANGOON. his desire or the thought of his heart merely, let that desire be fulfilled. Let him not in the least meet with that towards which he has no mental disposition, and for which he has no desire. When the deity Arimadeya* shall be revealed, let him have the revelation, that he may become Withadi Nat, supreme of the three rational existences. In every state of existence let him continually and truly possess the excellence of wisdom, and accord ing to his desire in practices pertaining to this world, and to the divine state, so let it be accomplished. Thus, in order to cause the voice of homage during the period of five hundred years to be heard at the monument of the divine hair in the city of Rangoon, let the reward of the great merit of giving the great bell called Maha Ganda be unto the. royal mother queen, the royal father pro prietor of life, lord of the white elephant, the royal grandfather Aloungmengi the royal * The fifth Boodh, and next to Gaudama, the last ; whose images are now worshipped. Arimadeya is now supposed to be in one of the regions of the Nats. GREAT BELL 0E RANGOON. 13 uncle, the royal aunt queen, the royal sons, the royal daughters, the royal relatives, the royal concubines, the noblemen, the military officers, and teachers. Let the Nats who guard the religious dispensation five thou sand years; the Nats who guard the royal city, palace, and umbrella; the Nats who all around guard the empire, the provinces, and villages ; the Nats who guard the monu ments of the divine hair, around the hill Tampakokta, together with the Nats govern ing Bomma and Akatha, and all rational beings throughout the universe, utter praises and accept the supplications." An attempt was made to remove this bell on board a British ship during the war of 1824, but it accidentally fell into the river, and after remaining at the bottom several months it was taken up and restored to its former place. The Soolay pagoda at Rangoon is small but very beautiful, being richly orna mented with green and gold. CHAPTER II. The Province of Pegu — Its Area and Fiscal Divisions — The Irrawaddy — The Inhabitants of Pegu — The Admi nistration of the Province — Revenue and Expenditure. The province of Pegu was added to the British Empire in the East at the close of the last war with the king of Burmah, as is pretty generally known. It lies between the paraUels of 15° 44' and 19° 27' north latitude, and the meridians of 94° 13' and 96° 52' east longitude. Its area is estimated at 32,250 square miles. It is divided for fiscal purposes into the following divisions : Rangoon . 9,800 square miles Bassein . 8,900 » » Prome 5,500 ;> !> Henzada . 2,200 » » Tharawaddy 1,950 j> » Tounghoo 3,900 » >! PROVINCE OE PEGU. 15 The principal river of Pegu is the cele brated Irrawaddy, which has its source in 28° north latitude and 97° 30' east longitude, and after a course of 900 miles it discharges itself into the sea by nine different mouths ; but besides, these there are many branches connected with it. In March the river begins to rise, and gradually increases in volume till its waters are forty feet above their lowest level. They rapidly subside in October, when the rains cease and the north east monsoon sets in. The inhabitants consist principally of Bur mans and Peguans, between whom the stranger cannot distinguish any difference; the Karens, who live in wild and remote districts ; the Karen-nee, or red Karens ; the Khyins, whose women tatoo their faces ; the Yeh-baings, of the Yoma range; and the Shans, who form separate communities. The administration of the province is en trusted to a Commissioner from the supreme government. The other officers administer ing civil justice are Deputy-commissioners, 16 PROVINCE OE PEGU. Assistant - commissioners, and Myo - okes. These will be described in a subsequent chapter when treating of the Tenasserim pro vinces. The Bengal criminal code is the chief authority in the courts, but in the seaport towns commercial transactions are regulated by the English law. Under the rule of the Burman king the revenue of Pegu is supposed to have been. about rupees 15,71,498; but the present revenue amounts to rupees 30,21,062, or up wards of thirty lakhs of rupees. It is raised as follows : * Rupees. Annas. Pie. Land . . . . . 935,988 7 5J Capitation tax. . 736,688 14 5 Fisheries . 272,036 10 0 Salt . 49,715 8 0 Forest produce 1,650 0 0 * In British Burmah accounts are kept in the same way as in India, viz., in Company's rupees, annas, and pie: 16 annas going to the rupee, and 12 pie to the anna. The coins are — rupees, half and quarter rupees, in silver; and in copper quarter-annas and a few smaller copper coins, all of which go by the name of pice. ITS REVENUE. Rupees. Annas . Pie Excise .... 176,530 10 3 "Sea customs 170,927 8 2 Inland customs . 391,888 13 4 .Municipal tax 30,878 7 0 Port dues . 27,501 3 0 Rent on building-lots, town o f Rangoon . 9,869 0 0 Timber revenue . 80,593 14 9 Judicial fines and fees . 74,313 10 0 Sale of unclaimed property 11,197 9 11 Bazaar rent . 15,233 15 5 Ferries 933 8 0 Postage stamps . 11,750 6 3 Miscellaneous 23,364 5 n 30,21,062 7 H 17 Rupees 17,01,181 is estimated as the civil -expenditure of the province, and the census returns give a population of 582,258 souls. It will probably much increase under the present rule, as in other parts of British Burmah. The American missionaries have estab lished many normal schools, particularly in c 18. SLAVERY ABOLISHED. the Bassein district. A flotilla of steamers keeps up the communication on the Irra- waddy, and several public works are in pro gress. Rice and teak timber are the prin cipal exports. Agriculture is as yet carried on in a very rude and imperfect manner ; but with a settled government this as well as other departments of industry will take a rapid stride. Slavery has been abolished, and every one will now enjoy the legitimate fruits of his labour. The people are beginning to believe in the permanency of British rule, which, recollecting the abandonment of the province in 1826, they for some time doubted. CHAPTER IH. The Tenasserim Provinces — Amherst — Approach to Maul main — Timber-yards and Elephants — Pagoda-crowned Hills — Sketch of Maulmain — Holy Poles or Burman Flagstaffs. On the 4th of May we left Rangoon for Maulmain, the principal town and port of the Tenasserim provinces; under which name is included the whole of British Burmah south of the newly acquired province of Martaban. This narrow strip of land is about five hundred miles in length, with a vary ing breadth of from forty to eighty miles. It extends from the point of the junction of the Thoung-yeen river with the Salween on the north, to the Pak-chan river on the south. On the east it is separated from Siam by a range of mountains, a spur of the Him- c 2 20 PRINCIPAL BIVEBS. malaya, which runs through the whole of the Malay peninsula, and on the west it is washed by the ocean. This tract of country, which, together with Arracan and a part of Martaban, was ceded to the East India Com pany by the treaty of Yandaboo on the 24th of February, 1826, is divided into three provinces, viz. Maulmain or Amherst pro vince, the chief civil and military station, Tavoy, and Mergui. The rivers most worthy of note are the Salween, Gyne, Attaran, Ye, Tavoy, and Tenasserim. And now, as the traveller approaches this part of Burmah, he is struck by the contrast it exhibits to the low-lying banks of the Hooghly, the flat level land of Bengal, and even to the country in the vicinity of Rangoon. Here is scenery the boldest and most picturesque. Thickly- wooded hills and cloud-capped mountains are the leading features of the landscape. But here before us is Amherst, situated at the mouth of the Salween river in north latitude 16° 15', and east longitude 97° 34', at the distance of about twenty-seven miles from AMHERST. 21 Maulmain by the river. By land the distance is less ; there is no road however practicable for carriages or even for horses, but merely a track holding its course through swamps and over rugged hills. Intelligence of im portance may be carried to head quarters by means of runners, who can traverse this foot path with little difficulty. Mrs. Judson's lonely grave, under the shadow of a hopea tree, could be discerned from the deck of the vessel. Amherst was so called in compli ment to Lord Amherst, who was Governor- General of India when the settlement was formed immediately after the annexation of the country. It was indeed chosen for the capital of the Tenasserim provinces, but, as it proved to be wanting in many of the requisites for a place of such consequence, the seat of government was removed to Maulmain. Amherst now derives its im portance from being the pilot station. It is also valuable on account of the salubrity of its climate, and is therefore much resorted to by the residents of Maulmain, who come 22 MAULMAIN. here for the benefit of sea-air and sea bathing, particularly during the hot months of Eebruary, March, and April. A run of a few hours up the river brings us to the important town of Maulmain, situated at the junction of the rivers Salween, Gyne, and Attaran, in latitude 16° 29' north, and longitude 97° 38' east. It is reckoned one of the healthiest stations in the East. Approaching Maulmain from the Salween, the appearance of the town is rather mean ; the banks of the river being occupied by a succession of timber-yards and low thatched sheds; but their importance in connexion with the trade of the place makes ample amends for their somewhat unsightly ap pearance. In these yards the traveller will see thousands of logs of valuable teak timber, for the export of which Maulmain is famed. Sawyers will be observed busy at work, squaring the logs and making them ready for shipment to the home market. Here, too, the stranger will find illustrated in a wonderful manner the usefulness, power, sa- MAULMAIN. 23 gacity, and docility of the elephant ; indeed, without its valuable assistance the teak- forests of Burmah could hardly be made available. Each yard has at least two ele phants with their respective mahouts, grass- cutters, and keepers. They drag up immense logs of timber from the river's edge to any place desired, and with their tusks, trunk, and feet they shift and stack them according to the will of the mahout, who sits on the animal's neck and directs its movements by means of an iron hook he holds in his hand, and also by his feet and voice. These ele phants are worth from four hundred to nine hundred rupees each, according to their size, disposition, and capabilities. Vessels of any tonnage can be towed up to Maulmain by steamer at the spring-tides. The rise and fall of the water is at that time from twenty- one to twenty-three feet. Although the appearance of Maulmain from the Salween is somewhat spoilt by shabby buildings on the banks of the river, the lover of the picturesque cannot fail to be pleased 24 MAULMAIN. with the fine range of pagoda-crowned hills that backs the town and runs parallel with it. On these heights many a golden spire flashes in the sun, and grotesque-looking buildings, filled with uncouth idols, arrest the attention of the wanderer at every step, telling of a heathen people and a distant land. - Here, too, are built many pretty residences com manding a fine view of the town, river, and adjacent country. Of these the commis sioner's is the most conspicuous, its white walls contrasting strongly with the bright green foliage by which it is surrounded. But, proudly towering above every thing else on the range of. hills of which I have been speaking, stands the great pagoda. The gaol too is a conspicuous object, behind which numerous small pagodas are visible. Several many-roofed temples may also be observed, and Burman flagstaffs (which have a religious significance and are sometimes called " Holy Poles") are planted at various ditances along the hills. Each one is crowned, bike a pagoda, with a tee of suitable size, and a few feet " HOLY POLES." 25 from the top is a rude representation of a cock, that bird being the national emblem of the Burmans. These poles are always found in the neighbourhood of religious edifices. CHAPTER IV. View from the Great Pagoda — The Great Pagoda and Temples — Inscription on the Great Bell — The Two Classes of Religious Edifices — Sketch of the Exterior of a Boodhist Temple — Interior of the same — Charac teristics of the Burman Religion — Description of Maul main — Population of the Tenasserim Provinces — Un roofing of the Houses at Maulmain. If the stranger climbs the hill on which the great pagoda is situated, he will be rewarded by one of the most extensive views in the world. "An unbroken range of pri mitive mountains, four or five thousand feet high," observes Mason, "are seen on the verge of the eastern horizon sweeping around to the north-west like an amphitheatre, where they are lost in the misty distance. From Martaban another range extends di rectly north, parallel with the west bank of the Salween." Between these is an immense alluvial plain, in the midst of which rises a Exterior of a Burman Temple, Malay Street, Maulmain. THE GREAT PAGODA. 27 pile of the most picturesque mountain Lime stone, cut into many a fantastic shape. One high peak, familiarly known as the " Duke of York's Nose," is discernible from the river" below Maulmain. These ranges of rocks and mountains, the intervening plain threaded with several silver rivers, Martaban town with its many spires, all lie mapped out before the spectator standing at the base of the great pagoda. It is a view he will not easily forget ; nor can he fail to be astonished at the indefatigable Burman who conveys such masses of materials to the tops of the highest hills, and there erects the gigantic monuments of his faith ; indeed, the objects close at hand will arrest his attention more, perhaps, than those at a distance. The pagoda, though much less striking than the Shoay Dagon of Rangoon, is still sufficiently remarkable. The spire is richly gilt, and may be seen at a great distance reflecting the rays of the rising or setting sun. A vault beneath is said to contain one of the hairs from the head of Gau-da-ma, the last Boodh. 28 INSCRIPTION ON BELL. It is esteemed a very ancient and sacred shrine by the Burmans. The image-houses or temples around contain many colossal 'idols, some of which are entirely covered with gold leaf. There is likewise a great bell sus pended in the usual way between two posts. It has an inscription in the Burman charac ter ; and immediately below is another, in which the difficulties of the English tongue are bravely encountered (if not overcome) by some native, who prided himself, no doubt, on his profound acquaintance with that language. It certainly deserves a place amongst the "curiosities of literature." I copied it verbatim, and it runs as follows : — " This bell is made by Koo-na-linn-guh-yah the priest * * *¦ * and the weight 600 viss. No one body design to destroy this bell. Maulmain, March 30, 1855. He who de stroyed to this bell, they must be in the great heell (hell) and unable to coming out." The Palmyra palm is a tree almost in variably seen in proximity with religious buildings, and a sphinx-like animal in a sit- SPHINX-LIKE ANIMALS. 29 ting posture at the bottom of the steps is a figure of very frequent occurrence. Two, one on either side, generally guard the entrance to a temple ; and four, one at each corner, are commonly seen at the base of a pagoda. The eyes, which are large and pro- ¦ minent, are often nothing more or less than the bottoms of green glass bottles, sent out to India, perhaps, by Bass or Allsopp, though these gentlemen can have little idea of the high position which the more durable part of their shipment occasionally attains. These sphinxes, which are sometimes truly gigantic, and might represent some extinct animal of a geological epoch long past, are constructed, like the pagodas, of plastered bricks. There are in Burmah, as the reader may already have inferred, two distinct classes of religious edifices : the pagoda, already de scribed as a solid mass of masonry erected to the memory of a Boodh, and generally sup posed to contain sacred relics ; and the temple, or image-house, which is used as a place of worship, and contains images of Gau- da-ma 30 TEMPLE ABCHITECTURE. of different sizes and various substances, the most common being wood covered with gold- leaf, alabaster or marble, plaster, and metal. The illustration facing this is from a sketch I made of the exterior of one of these temples in Malay Street, Maulmain, and it is a good type of this class of building. The several stages or roofs are indicative of a religious house, public building, or the dwelling of a person of rank. In the present instance there are five roofs, each one smaller than the one below ; and thus they graduate towards the tee which surmounts the whole. Small pagodas may be noticed on either side. On the extreme right is a kyoung, monastery, or priest's house. The bell is seen suspended in front of the temple, and when an offering has been made, or some religious duty per formed, it is generally struck by the devotee once or twice with a deer's horn ; several of which are usually placed near the bell. The next drawing is the interior of the same temple. The priests, who lived close by, made no objection to my going in RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES. 31 alone, and remaining as long as I desired for the accomplishment of my task; and, though pretending indifference, I always found these worthy men very desirous of seeing how their favourite temple or pagoda looked on paper, and they were generally delighted and highly amused with the result. These temples are places of worship in a limited sense. There is no regular service ; but on the days of the new and full moon, and on some other occasions, the men as semble in these edifices, present their offer ings, and make their shek-ho, or homage, to the principal image. They also repeat prayers, using the rosary, whilst others are smoking and talking very much at their ease. The women may sometimes be seen in the further corner of the temple; but they generally remain outside, and occupy the adjacent bungalows, or open sheds, in which they pray, smoke, and talk by turns. The priests or monks (as the fraternity may be more correctly termed) do not interfere or in any way assist at the devotions of the people. 32 INTERIOR OF TEMPLE. To return, however, to our sketch, which is highly characteristic of the interior of a Burman temple. In the centre is a gigan tic image of Gau-da-ma, occupying the whole of the space from the ceiling to the altar. It is surrounded by images in a standing posture, some of them of gigantic propor tions, and all are thickly covered with gold- leaf, with the exception of the head and part of the neck of each idol, which are white. As will be seen by the sketch, they are right jolly-looking gods, and as such are typical of the people and their religion. The latter, indeed, appears to be wholly divorced from everything like solemnity. In fact the Bur man makes his god even such an one as himself — a laughter-loving, jovial being, much given to amusement and social inter course. And as he connects very little solemnity with his religion, so he appears devoid of any feeling of sanctity as regards his temples and religious edifices. Fa naticism, too, would appear to find no place in his belief. His temples may be freely RELIGIOUS OBSEBVANCES. 33 entered, and his objects of worship examined by the stranger in race and infidel in creed, without calling forth any evidence of dislike or outraged religious feeling. Nevertheless their religion has, it is easy to perceive, a strong hold on their imagination, and is inter woven, in a remarkable manner, with their whole life from the cradle to the grave. Their grand religious festivals, on which occasions they postpone business and repair by thousands to their favourite pagodas and temples, to present offerings and repeat prayers to their gods, are all so many holi days and seasons of amusement and social intercourse. Added to this, it must be remembered that the priests, though a distinct class, are essentially one with the people ; and there are few families who have not same male relation who is a member of a neighbouring Kyoung. In the act of worshipping, the hands are joined and held to the forehead, and a flower or flowers, intended as an offering, are some times clasped in them. Umbrellas are also D 34 MAULMAIN. brought as offerings. These are often very pretty and made with much taste. The ma terial employed is chiefly paper, generally white ornamented with gilt, and occasionally other colours are employed. They are also decorated with gilt pendants, and the long stems are not unlike barbers' poles. Bunches of flowers, flower-pots with plants, and little flags, are also common offerings. On a long board fronting the altar saucers of brown ware are usually placed, containing cocoa-nut oil and wicks which are burnt before the idol. Yellow cloth is very frequently wrapped round the images, and supplies the place of gold- leaf; it is likewise used for the robes of the priests, being the sacerdotal colour. Maulmain is a pretty specimen of an east ern town. The streets are for the most part shaded with trees, amongst which the glossy jack is conspicuous. "Wells are of frequent occurrence, at which Burman maidens may be seen bathing and drawing water at all hours of the day. At intervals, wooden structures on wheels, and sometimes con- MAULMAIN. 35 structed of solid materials, are placed at the road side, containing vessels of drink ing-water for the benefit of the wayfarer, and this commendable custom is observed in all Burman towns. The main street runs parallel with the river. On either side are Burman houses and bazaars. Close to the main wharf is a large puckah building, com prising the offices of the deputy-commis sioner, treasury, master-attendant's office, office of the collector of customs, and marine storekeeper. Gharries, the vehicles in ge neral use in Maulmain, Rangoon, and other parts of India, and which answer to the European cabs, are frequently observed wait ing for hire in the streets. There are other goodpuckah buildings occu pied chiefly by the offices of various mercan tile firms and shopkeepers. The artillery bar racks are of brick. The European and native infantry barracks are in the neighbourhood of the great pagoda, and near these is situated St. Matthew's episcopal church, a pretty building (constructed, however, of wood) ca- d 2 36 AMEBICAN BAPTIST MISSION. pable of containing eight hundred people. It is lofty and cool, and like all churches in India is hung with punkhas. The post- office, police, assistant commissioners', and Tseekay's courts occupy a range of wooden buildings, and near this is the Hbrary and government school-house. The stranger should also pay a visit to the premises of the American Baptist Mission, including a chapel and printing establishment ; here he will see the mission press in full activity, and worked by natives. Erom this press has issued the whole Bible in Burman language, dictionaries, and many tracts and elementary school-books*. as well as various publications in the Taleing and Karen dialects. The American Baptist Mission was founded by Dr. Judson at Ran goon in 1812, since which Christian commu nities have been founded amongst the Bur mans at Rangoon, Ava, Akyab, Sandoway, Maulmain, Tavoy, and Mergui; but the white teachers have found more disciples amongst the Karens and other tribes inhabiting Burmah than amongst the Burmans proper. POPULATION. 37 (See Chapter XXI.) In the neighbourhood of Maulmain and Tavoy are many low-lying paddy fields which are cultivated regularly, but a great deal of ground lies waste, being occupied by jungle and grass common. This arises in a great measure from the extreme scantiness of the population, though the people have greatly increased since the occu pation of the provinces by the British. The total number of inhabitants was then esti mated at 90,000. The following is the result of the census of 1855-56 : — ! . Amherst, exclusive of Maulmain. Taroy. Mergui. European and other Christian inhal ! 28 [ 61 195 "Talaings and Burmese . . ! 51,206 • 46,112 18,590 Shans and Thoungthoos 6,926 139 2,668 4,775 5,403 Chinese ..... 539 1,024 955 1,592 | 76 1,340 .Natives of India 4 680 1,699 82,787 52,867 30,850 38 HOUSES OF MAULMAIN. To this must be added the population of Maulmain, which in the same census is given as follows : — Number of Men 18,021 „ "Women .... 11,610 „ Children .... 14,052 43,683 Add to this the foregoing, viz. Amherst 82,787 Tavoy 52,867* Mereui 30,850 The grand total will be 210,187 Which may be taken at least as an approxi mation to the truth. The population is steadily on the increase. A great number of the houses of Maul main are now tiled ; but this improvement is being effected by a somewhat arbitrary enactment, which interdicts the use of thatch to a whole district at once, under severe penalties, which, in the case of native houses, is tantamount to pulling them down, for the * According to the census of April, 1857, the popu lation of Tavoy is 54,074. MANY OE THEM ROOFLESS. 39 frail erections are not often capable of sup porting a roof of either tiles or shingles ; and besides, these rise to such an exorbitant price in consequence of the extraordinary demand for them, that they are quite beyond the means of the greater number of Burmans. On returning to Maulmain towards the end of the wet season, I was astonished to find a large district of the town nearly roofless, and as the rain still came down in heavy showers the inhabitants were in a miserable plight. Some had entirely forsaken their now useless houses, and many deaths amongst the sick and aged were reported in conse quence of this unusual exposure to the wea ther. The commissioner, Colonel Sir Archi bald Bogle, now absent in Europe, was, I believe, the originator of this ingenious plan for depopulating the town. The dingie-wallahs or boatmen, the dhobees or washermen, and the domestic servants are all foreigners ; the latter are generally Ma- drassees. CHAPTER V. Administration of the Tenasserim Provinces — The Officers to whom it is entrusted — Scenery in the Neighbourhood of Maulmain — Damathat — Yearly Visit of the Shans to Maulmain — -Their Ponies and Boxes. Maulmain is the seat of government of the Tenasserim provinces. The officers who administer civil justice are divided into four classes, viz. — 1. The Commissioner. 2. The assistants to ditto. 3. The Tseekais. 4. Goung Gyouks. The commissioner is, de facto, the governor of the Martaban and Tenasserim provinces under the supreme government of India. He sits in session at least once a month to try criminal cases ; he also holds a court daily for receiving petitions from the inhabitants, and civil appeals from the decisions of the POLICE OP MAULMAIN. 41 assistants to the commissioner. These like wise try cases, but with a Limitation ; and appeals may be made from their courts to that of the commissioner's. The tseekay's court is a small-cause court. He is subor dinate to the deputy-commissioner, to whom appeals are made from his decisions. Besides the officers above enumerated, there are three other classes appointed to administer police duties, viz. — 5. Goungs. 6. Thoogyees. 7. Peons. A peon is subordinate to goungs in towns, and to thoogyees in villages. His duties are those of a constable. A goung is subordinate to the tseekay of his town ; and a thoogyee is subordinate to the goung gyouk of his divi sion. The duty of a goung and of a thoogyee is to inquire into all offences occurring within his jurisdiction, and to bring all suspected persons before their immediate superior. A tseekay in a town and a goung gyouk in 42 POLICE COUBTS. village districts are respectively subordinate to the assistant-commissioner of the juris diction. It is the duty of a tseekay and goung gyouk to take cognizance of all offences within their jurisdiction, to superintend their subordinates, to convey to their superior all persons apprehended by themselves or those under them, and to cause the attend ance of prosecutors and witnesses when a case is tried. The police of Maulmain are under the immediate control of the magis trate. The town is divided into five districts, each of which is under a goung, or native head of police. These goungs are responsible each for his own district to the magistrate, to whom they report daily. The decisions of the courts are, I believe, generally characterised by a spirit of fairness ; and it can hardly be doubted by an unbiassed observer that the rule of the Company, in this part of India at least, is just and mer ciful, and confers an immense boon on the people, who, when governed by the Burman king, were all slaves ; both life and property DAMATHAT. 43 being at the mercy of a capricious tyrant, under whose sway population actually de creased. In British Burmah all have equal rights, and all are under the protection of the law; and, though a commissioner may sometimes play a few arbitrary pranks, yet he cannot chop off heads and seize property as he lists ; every man dwells safely under his own vine and fig-tree, which, being inter preted, means his own jack and his own plaintain tree. The neighbourhood of Maulmain is ex tremely beautiful. In the month of Novem ber, after the rains were over and the north east monsoon had set in, I visited Damathat — a romantic spot about twenty miles from Maulmain, on the river Gyne. Here, as in every other part of Burmah, the highest hills are crowned with pagodas, adding much to the picturesqueness of the scenery. Going up the country in one of their row-boats is by no means disagreeable; they are ex tremely comfortable, and about a third of the space is covered with a kind of thatched 44 YEABLY VISIT OE THE SHANS. tilt. Under this is a flat boarded floor, on which you place a mattress and pillow. With a good companion, books, and a suf ficient stock of provisions, this mode of loco motion is pleasant enough. At Damathat we explored a large temple-cave, in which were shrines for the devout Boodhist, and images of Gau-da-ma innumerable. This is the season at which the Shans (a tribe of Siamese from the north of Burmah) visit Maulmain in considerable numbers, bringing with them for sale ponies and round lacquered boxes. The former were this year much enhanced in price, in consequence of a considerable number being purchased by government. I saw a very good pony, but one which a few years ago would not have fetched more than eighty or one hundred rupees, sold for two hundred and fifty. Buying the ani mals, as the purchaser must, without any fur ther knowledge of them than what he can obtain by a cursory inspection, is attended with some risk ; but he has at least this advantage, that he generally sees them at their worst — . THEIR PONIES AND BOXES. 45 rough from the jungles, and tired with a long journey. If sound, they improve vastly with rest, food, and good grooming. The lacquered boxes vary in price according to the size, and are both pretty and useful.. The Burmans use them as betel boxes. CHAPTER VI. Difficulty of communication between Maulmain and the Southern Provinces of British Burmah — The Moscos — The Eeef called " The Cows " — Scenery of the Tavoy River — Town of Tavoy — The Quay and Pier — Sketch of the principal Zayat — Burman Life and Manners at Tavoy. The communication between Maulmain and the southern stations, both for mails and passengers, is very uncertain ; more so, perhaps, than in any other part of India. The whole of Hindostan might be in the hands of the rebels, and all the Europeans in India have been massacred in a manner most unique and amusing to such fiendish savages as lately practised their diabolical cruelty in various parts of the country, yet months would possibly elapse before the benighted inhabitants of Tavoy and Mergui could gain the slightest inkling of what had DIEEICULTY OE COMMUNICATION. 47 taken place, and at last they would probably learn it by some vessel being wrecked on the coast, when perchance an English newspaper, containing "the latest intelligence via Mar seilles," might be washed ashore; or the fact would perhaps be announced by an invasion of the territory by the King of Burmah. An inhabitant of the Great Cocoa, or the Little Andaman, would often gain a better idea of what was going on in the world than a British resident in the remoter settlements of the Tenasserim provinces. The commu nication is nominally kept up once a month by the Hon. Company's steamer "Pluto;" that is to say, when she happens to be sta tioned at Maulmain. When I first arrived in Burmah this vessel was undergoing repairs at Calcutta, and, as the south-west monsoon had set in, communication with the southern stations by means of native boats was out of the question. The only way of despatch ing a mail under these circumstances is by native runners overland. The Pluto returned to Maulmain about the middle of June, and 48 "the moscos." by the courtesy of her commander, Captain Baker, I was at last enabled to reach Tavoy, where a day or two previously the terrible news of the revolt of the Bengal army had arrived by a chance vessel. A short but de cided break in the weather enabled us to make a safe and agreeable passage and to obtain a fine view of the Tenasserim coast, which is kept in sight the whole distance. The next day we passed the Moscos, pretty densely- wooded islets, which, rising abruptly from the surface of the blue water, tower to the sky and seem to rest on nought bnt their own dark shadows. They are the resort of the sea-swallow. It hangs on the rocks its curious angular nest, so famous for its edible properties, and which at Maulmain is worth its weight in silver. These islets are in three groups, viz., the northern, the middle, and the southern Moscos. The Chinese possess a monopoly of these nests, which they purchase annually from govern ment. To reach the Tavoy river a vessel from the "the cows.'" 49 northward has to run several miles south of the town of that name in order to double a neck of land which separates the river from the sea. Near the mouth is a dangerous reef called "the Cows," "formed," says Mason, " of porphyrinic granite containing large crystals of flesh-coloured felspar. It is pro bably so called from its resemblance to the colour of a red cow ; but tradition says that these rocks were originally a drove of cows which opposed Boodhism, and attempted to cross the river to beat down the pagoda opposite on Tavoy point ; but, the divinity looking out from the pagoda, exclaimed, ¦* Those are not cows but rocks ;' when they were all immediately changed to stone." The «cenery of the river is beautiful and romantic in the extreme. Here are low-lying paddy fields on which enormous slate-coloured buf faloes, with retreating horns of great length, are lazily grazing, and there are towering hills magnificently wooded. A run of about thirty-four miles up the stream brings us to the little town of Tavoy, situated on the left E 50 PIEB AND QUAY AT TAVOY. bank of the river, in N. lat. 14° 4', E. long. 98° 5', and at a distance of about two> hundred and twenty miles from Maulmain. It lies low, and is surrounded on three sides by paddy fields and on the fourth by the river. The houses are almost concealed from the view of a spectator on the river by the umbrageous trees — palms, plantains, jacks, cassias, and a hundred flowering shrubs that grow luxuriously around them. The accompanying drawing is a view of the covered pier and the quay at Tavoy, taken from a building overlooking both. At the quay the market-boats are loading their fruits and wares for the bazaar. The next is a drawing I took of the principal zayat at Tavoy, which is a very characteristic building. In every Burman town and village there is always one zayat, and in some towns more than one ; they are frequently only open sheds, formed of. bamboo and thatch. The zayat is a traveller's house or caravansary, and is always at the service of the people. SIMPLE HABITS OE THE PEOPLE. 51 There is no attendant ; but the traveller or stranger spreads his bed, eats his food, and rests as long as he desires. The ground- floor of the one at Tavoy is much used by the vendors of fruit and different eatables. In this little town Burman life and manners are seen in all their simplicity; and the observer cannot but be struck by the fruga lity, contentment, happiness, and enjoyment of life manifested by the people. All appear well off, and have silks and gold ornamems at their command. None are very rich and none are very poor. The painful contrast of wealth, luxury, and gorgeous display with squalid poverty, suffering, and want, so often exhibited in more highly-civilized countries, is here unknown. All have enough and are contented with that sufficiency. The Burman eats his rice and ngapee, his staple food, chews his betel-nut, smokes his cigar, con structs his simple dwelling, and acts most fully on the divine aphorism that " sufficient for the day is the evil thereof." In the eve nings the young men, who are athletic and E 2 52 BUBMAN HOUSES. well made, assemble in the streets and play at football, at which they are very expert; indeed, I have often witnessed scenes that have reminded me forcibly of lines in Gold smith's Deserted Village. The Burman houses are all constructed of the same materials and on the same plan. They are invariably raised from the ground, made of bamboo fastened with rattan, and thatched with the leaf of the water-palm, which grows in great abundance in this neighbourhood. The leaves are strung on. a strip of split bamboo, and are then fit for use. Near most of the houses, supported by trellis-work, may be seen growing the piper- betel or betel-vine, the leaf of which is used for chewing with the nut of the areca or betel-palm. A piece of the latter is wrapped up in a leaf of the piper-betel, which is first smeared over with lime ; the whole is then placed in the mouth, which it soon fills with a blood-red fluid. A Burman considers this as necessary as his daily food, and I have seen Europeans who are rather partial to it. shops. 58 Under a great many houses a loom may be observed, at which a female is generally busy at work. Many of the shops are mere sheds or stalls formed of bamboo and thatch. The vendors sit squatted down on the raised floor in the midst of their wares. Sometimes a fire is kindled on a few stones, and on this fritters, usually of rice, are fried. CHAPTER VII. The Burmans ethnologicaUy considered — Costume of the Burmans — Tatooing — Ear- ornaments — Smoking. The Burmans belong, ethnologicaUy, to that group or variety of the human species cha racterised by a Mongolian physiognomy and a monosyllabic language. They have broad faces and high cheek-bones. Their dress is simple in the extreme on ordinary occasions, but at the same time not a little remarkable. The common dress of the men is the In-gie or JEn-gie, a white linen jacket ; and a Put-so, or cotton cloth about four yards in length and one in breadth, which is put on round the hips, and when worn long extends to the ankles, but as it is frequently arranged it encircles only the middle. In the absence of the m-gie the long end of the put-so is generally thrown over one shoulder in a graceful manner, and then it not a little TAT00ING. 55 resembles a highland plaid and kilt. The men allow their black hair to grow long, and they fasten it in a knot at the top of the head. They seldom wear a moustache or any hair on the face. Erom the hips to the knees every male is most elaborately tatooed with a blue or black pigment, and their naked thighs remind one forcibly of the body of a serpent. This painful operation is done gradually and when very young. Boys are generally seen with a few figures on their thighs, which are extended by degrees until the whole process is accomplished. While being operated on they are drugged with opium to render their feelings less acute ; and an overdose occasionally cuts the matter short by terminating the labours of the operator and the life of the patient at the same time. The upper part of the body is sometimes tatooed in patches, here and there, of a vermilion colour. The usual costume of the female consists of an in-gie or white linen jacket, and the te-mine, while the put-so constitutes that of 56 costume. the male. The te-mine is a very scant gar ment quite innocent of crinoline. It is broad enough to wrap over a little way round the waist, where it is confined by one end being tucked under the other, and it extends to the feet. As it is neither tied, stitched, or fas- tened, except at the top as just described, it opens a't every step taken by the wearer, ex posing the greater part of one leg ; but, as this is the universal custom, it is not con sidered immodest. A put-s6 or a te-min6 made of silk is a costly article, but every Burman male and female possesses one or more which are worn on highdays and holidays. The women as well as the men wear their hair, which is black and glossy as the raven's wing,, very long. The former comb it back from the forehead a la Eugenie, and fasten it in a knot at the back of the head. The young maidens adorn their dark locks with elegant flowers;, which in Eng?- land would be considered rare and beautiful exotics. Old women often wear only the "te-mineY' and. little children of both sexes COSTUME. 57 go naked. Perhaps the most remarkable part of the female costume are the ear-orna ments in which they so much delight ; and to introduce which an orifice of astonishing size is made in the lobe of the ear. The one most frequently worn is a cylinder of pinch beck, enlarging at both ends, like a double trumpet. These ornaments are, however, made of different substances, and I have seen them formed of a solid roll of pure gold of great weight and value. In absence of any of them, a cigar, or some other article in constant use, is frequently thrust into the otherwise vacant orifice of the ear. Eor great occasions, the in-gie of the female is made of book-muslin, or some clear material, figured over or bespangled with gold. She wears no other covering on her head than • that bestowed by nature. Smoking is uni versal amongst men, 'women, and children. Even infants at the breast are sometimes seen tugging hard at a cigar. CHAPTER VHI. Siam Hill — Early Walks in Burmah — Auriferous nature of the Soil — Loadstone Rock. Pubsuing the high road across the paddy fields about half-a-mile east from Tavoy, we reach a spot elevated fully one hundred feet above the town, and known as Siam Hill. Here is situated a large bungalow residence occupied by the deputy-commis sioner. The site is very beautiful. The spacious compound, a park-like ground, is entered from the road through an avenue of the padouk — an ornamental evergreen tree of much beauty, the flower of which bears some resemblance to the laburnum, but is more showy and exceedingly fragrant. A thousand birds, of as many different colours, including the king-fisher, the bulbul, dove, crow-pheasant, mango-bird, paradise edolius, and others too numerous to mention, may be SIAM HILL. 59 seen flying from tree to tree like living gems. On the right or west side a range of mountains running parallel with the river stretches away to the south, and in the rainy season here and there a water-fall may be seen gushing out from the thick foliage that clothes their sides. Next comes a splendid mass of tropical vegetation and trees of novel form, amongst which the palm tribe is con spicuous ; then a carpet of the greenest grass is spread far and near, dotted over with herds of the small humped cattle of India. There, too, a band of priests may often be seen, clad from head to foot in robes of yellow, wending their way leisurely to some neighbouring kyoung or pagoda; each one pondering, no doubt, on the mysteries of Boodhism as he walks soberly along with bare feet and uncovered head, bike a men dicant friar of Europe. A boy holds over him a Chinese umbrella to shield his shaven pate from the direct rays of a tropical sun. " On the south a silver stream, fringed with the dark foliage of wild fig-trees, and the 60 THE BAINY SEASON. thick straggling bushes of a species of hi biscus, covered with large yellow and red flowers, is seen pursuing its tortuous course beneath the shadows of Mount Burney, which rises twelve hundred feet above its southern bank. On the east ' hills peep o'er hills,' like the seats of a vast amphi theatre, bounded by Ox's Hump, rising in a most picturesque outline four thousand feet above the plains." Even during the rains the European must not miss his early walk or ride, although he will most probably get drenched to the skin before his return ; for the clouds having to discharge about two hundred inches of water in six months (sixty inches of which fell this year, 1857, in the single month of May), they cannot stand on ceremony, but pour down their contents in a most unmerciful patter, at all hours of the day and night. A greater drawback, perhaps, is the extreme sultriness of the morning, even before the sun has risen far above the horizon. There are many pleasant rambles around PLEASANT ENVIBONS OE TAVOY. 61 Tavoy ; and, if the stranger takes his sketch book, he will find an extensive field for the exercise of his art amongst the numerous monuments and edifices of this singular people. As he pursues his way many sounds strike on his ear, which to the lover of nature are agreeable in the extreme. The cawing of the ubiquitous crow, the cooing of the turtle-dove in the lone wood, the tinkle of the wooden bell attached to the neck of the huge buffalo, which may be seen cooling his hide in the soft mud of the paddy fields — all give a charm to these country solitudes. The gilded spires of a thousand towering pagodas* flash in the first rays of the rising sun, and the soft music of the little bells that are hung around tie top is wafted on the breeze. Eruit-women, aged crones, and budding maidens, with baskets on their heads, and with stick in hand to keep off the crows, are wending their way to the township ; while huge elephants stalk along the road in * In Tavoy and the neighbourhood there are said to be one thousand monuments to Gau-da-ma. 62 GEOLOGICAL EEATUBES. the same direction. Many beautiful trees, flowers, mosses, and ferns occur at every step ; indeed, a flora, as novel to the Eu ropean botanist as it is interesting and worthy of study, is spread out before him. The palm-tree waveth high, And fair the betel springs ; And to the Indian maid The bulbul sweetly sings. The geologist, too, will find an interesting field of inquiry. A great deal of quartz is seen in many directions; and the ground reminded me forcibly of the gold-fields of Australia. Indeed, there are strong indi cations of the auriferous nature of the soil. A well for the new jail on »Siam Hill had been sunk about forty feet in the alluvial soil, without reaching the bottom; but on some of this soil being washed, under the direction of the officiating deputy-commis sioner of Tavoy, Captain J. C. Haughton, who is himself an excellent practical ge ologist, a speck of the precious metal was LOADSTONE BOCK. 63 discovered. I think it probable, both from the " prospect," or indication, and the nature of the country, that if in the dry season a sufficient number of shafts to test the ground were carried down, a remunerative gold-field would be discovered. In company with the deputy-commissioner I paid a visit to a remarkable hill, upwards of a hundred feet high, situated about three miles north-west of Tavoy, on the summit of which is a large loadstone rock. The part that is buried in the soil is more highly magnetic than that exposed to the action of the air. We employed a man to quarry out a few fragments, which were strong enough to attract a small key considerably out of the perpendicular when suspended by a thread ; and needles were easily rendered magnetic by being rubbed with a piece of the load stone. CHAPTER IX. Burman Road-side Watering-places and Flagstaffs. On the road-side, about three-quarters of a mile east of Tavoy, is one of those useful and characteristic erections for the benefit of the way-farer, where he may obtain a plentiful supply of the purest water, con tained in earthen vessels placed in two niches made for that purpose. Near it is a Burman flagstaff, surmounted as usual by a tee, which is richly gilded. About a third of the way from the top is a wooden figure designed to represent the domestic cock, the national emblem of the Burmans or of Burmah. A very elaborate building of this kind is situated in the vicinity of the town. In that the entwined serpents are green and gold; the ground is a shining white, the top is richly gilt, and the whole forms a beautiful object as it flashes and POLITENESS TO STEANGEBS^ 65 glitters in a tropical sun. These edifices have a religious significance. Near the watering-place is a temple, the entrance to which is guarded by two enormous animals of the usual form, with glass-bottle eyes. The peacock, so often found attached to these buildings, has evidently some religious bearing. No less than three are to be seen on the outside of the image-house just alluded to, as well as a remarkable animal only to be met with in Boodhist zoology. One day as I was' wandering near a kyoung on a Burman holiday, the priest, taking me by the hand, led me within and placed me by his side while he preached to a congrega tion of women, each one kneeling, with joined and uplifted hands, during the whole of his discourse, the pon-gyee holding a fan before his face the while. The Burmans are evidently a people of strong religious feeling, and it is a pity it should be so misdirected. They are also polite and kind to strangers, as was instanced on one occasion in parti cular, when during my morning walk 1 came E 66 EDUCATION. upon a large party assembled in a spacious zayat, where they were celebrating some religious festival. They offered me cigars and refreshments, and finally a seat on the bungalow. Eruits, sweetmeats, and eat ables of various descriptions, cups, saucers, and a great array of crockery, fine dresses, silks, gold ornaments, and musical instru ments were to be seen ad infinitum. A pagoda and a temple, in close proximity, when seen at a little distance crowning a hill-top, bear a great resemblance to a church and steeple; but the Christian philanthro pist indulging himself in this pleasing delu sion, would be greatly disappointed, on en tering the supposed church, to find it full of uncouth idols and scattered over with the rubbish of former offerings. The kyoung or priest's house is a kind of monastery, and is the national school of Burmah. In them, and in sheds adjoining, boys are daily instructed in reading, writing, and the elements of arithmetic. They squat down on the raised floor and write their EDUCATION. 67 copies on black boards, using a piece of Erench chalk as a pencil. The more ad vanced pupils, however, may be seen writing, or rather engraving, on prepared strips of palm-leaf,* with an iron instrument pointed at both ends. Some of them exhibit great neatness of execution. They also show occa sionally considerable skill in mathematical investigations, for the Deputy-Commissioner of Tavoy province assured me that he had seen the time of an eclipse calculated to within half an hour of the actual event at one of these schools. The priests or monks superintend the studies of these boys, who are very regular in their attendance during the rainy season. The education thus received is entirely gra tuitous, but the priests subsist by the volun tary contributions of the people. * These strips of palm-leaf are about 20 inches long by 2£ broad. A number of these, with a board of the same size on either side, form a book. E 2 CHAPTER X. Religious Festivals of the Burmans— Barges with Native Bands and Dancing Girls — Contrast between the Ap pearance and Costume of the Burmans on Ordinary and Extraordinary Occasions — A Burman Crowd — Devo tions of the People at the Pagodas and Temples — An aged Woman worshipping. In October (1857) I attended, for the sake of studying the manners and customs of the Burmans, several of their grand religious festivals, of which I shall now endeavour to give the reader some account. On the 7th of October one of these fetes took place at Shen-da-way or Old Tavoy, which place lies some few miles from the modern town, higher up the river. Thither, as to a place of pilgrimage, all the Burman world was flocking, and accompanied by a friend I repaired to the shrine to see how they manage these things in Burmah. We embarked with the tseekay, in the Deputy- BELIGIOUS EESTIVALS. 69 Commissioner's boat, which was taken in tow by two canoes full of active rowers, who made her bound over the water like a thing of life. The picturesque Tavoy river looked most beautiful as it wended its serpentine course through a country which for natural scenery is seldom equalled and still more rarely surpassed. One side is bordered for a considerable distance by the feathery frondage of the water-palm, which looks very much like the cocoa-nut palm without its trunk — as if the fronds had been cut off and stuck into the ground. On the other side the vivid green of the low paddy fields and slopes of the greenest sward were backed by high blue-looking hills of considerable elevation. The river was gay with long-prowed orna mented racing canoes full of brawny rowers, who seemed to throw the exuberance of ani mal strength and spirits into the enjoyment of the day. But the most conspicuous and attractive objects were the barges in which were bands of music and dancing- girls. These barges 70 BABGES. are formed by two canoes lashed together, on which is placed a floor of planks, and on this a frame of bamboo is raised, open at the sides, and supporting a roof thatched with the leaves of the water-palm; a most effectual protection from the fierce and penetrating rays of a tropical sun. Each barge is towed by two canoes full of Burman rowers. The stern, from which streams the British ensign, is occupied by the band, the instruments composing which are unique, and objects of much curiosity to the European eye. There is a circular frame, in the interior of which small drums, or tom-toms, are placed, and the performer sits in the centre. Another circular frame contains round metallic plates which are beaten with a stick by a musician, who likewise occupies the centre. Cymbals, pieces of split bamboo, which are beaten one against the other, and a sort of flageolet, make up the Burman band. At the other end is a more interesting sight. Burman girls, in the most elaborate and costly dresses, are dancing to the somewhat discordant DANCING-GIBLS. 71 sounds of the instruments already described. On this occasion, however, they were not hired and professional dancers; but ordi nary Burman damsels, and some were mar ried women. Nothing, perhaps, strikes the stranger so much as the contrast between what appear to him the more than half- naked savages he takes this people to be when he first sees them in their every-day dress, in their rude houses and straggling villages, and the refinement, elaborate toi lette, costly ornaments of gold, silks, and other paraphernalia they display on grand occasions. The quantity of highly-worked gold necklaces and pendants, chains, bangles or bracelets, ear-ornaments, rings, and pre cious stones, worn by these damsels, would astonish, and perhaps excite the envy of, many a European belle. The principal gar ment, the te-mine, is made of silk, striped in horizontal zigzag bines, in which red and yellow are the predominating colours. The in-gie is of lace, or embroidered book-muslin, and over the left shoulder is thrown a scarf 72 DANCING-GIBLS. of figured silk or gauze. The dancing is confined to the females, and is more a pos turing than the exercise we understand by the term ; the arms, hands, and fingers per form an important part, being turned and contorted in a most extraordinary manner. All the while an imperturbable gravity is preserved. The head is without any other covering than the thick black hair this people invariably possess. It is combed back from the forehead, fastened in a knot behind, and ornamented with flowers. They likewise rub sandal-wood powder and other cosmetics over their faces,, so that the women often appear much fairer than they really are. As soon as one set of dancers is tired another starts up, and so on in constant succession. The whole performance is very monotonous, but appears to keep up an unflagging interest in the spectators, who are squatted around smoking cigars, chewing betel-nut, and in the seventh heaven of felicity and enjoyment. Erom the landing-place a broad raised path led away through fields of waving paddy to DEVOTION OF THE PEOPLE. 73, pagoda-crowned hills and grassy slopes, across which the people were flitting in their gayest attire — all in the highest spirits, with coun tenances on which good humour, content, and kind feeling were evidently stamped. A Burman crowd, indeed, as far as my expe rience goes, is always well-behaved. There is no coarseness, rudeness, quarrelling, or drunkenness, and cynical must be that man's spirit who can look on in total apathy at so much innocent enjoyment and happy social intercourse as is manifested on such occasions, although he may lament that it should be in anyway connected with an idolatrous worship and an erroneous belief. Arrived at the pagodas and temples, the people suddenly turn from pleasure to devotion. Men, bearing ornamental paper umbrellas, fruits, flowers, and other offerings, crowd into the image- houses, present their gifts to the favourite idol, make their shek-ho, and say their prayers with all despatch. Others are gluing more gold-leaf on the face of the image, or saluting him with crackers, the explosion of which 74 DEVOTION OE THE PEOPLE. in no wise interferes with the serenity of the worshippers. The women for the most part remain outside, kneeling on the sward, just at the entrance of the temple, where a view can be obtained of the image within. On our way back, as the barges arrived at their respective villages, the landing-places were thronged with people to witness the return of their friends. In a few days there was another pilgrim age down the river to Shoay-mowk-tee, where there was a shrine of great reputed sanctity. We were on the wharf by six o'clock a.m. just as the rising sun was flashing its first rays on the silver stream ; which silently threaded its tortuous course through fields of paddy, backed by dark-looming mountains, half shrouded in wreaths of white vapour. Boats and barges, here and there, dotted the broad river, and every thing was much the same as on the former occasion, though I thought a little less life and gaiety was dis played ; as if the actors, in this long comedy, were growing somewhat weary. Arrived at DEVOTION OE THE PEOPLE. 75 the landing-place we saw men, women, and children, up to their knees in mud, scram bling to the top of a steep bank, through the soft slime and yielding clay of the river ; and we were fain to mount on the shoulders of two stout Burmans. The principal temple being under repair, was much crowded by bamboo-scaffolding, and new pillars were being put up, each bearing an inscription with the name of the donor, who, no doubt considered himself much nearer Nieban by virtue of so merito rious an act. The umbrellas brought as offerings were so numerous that one could with difficulty thread a passage through them. Some were pure white, others white and gold, while many boasted all the colours of the rainbow. They were made of paper, beautifully cut into various patterns. There were numerous altars and images, and num berless little Gau- da-mas ; but a deep niche or cave, at the far end of which was a fat idol with a yellow cloth wrapped round him, seemed a place of peculiar sanctity. This 76 DEVOTION OE THE PEOPLE. recess would have been quite dark had it not been for the numberless tapers of yellow wax that were burning before the image. The closeness of the place, the smoke from the candles, and the fumes from the quantity of crackers constantly being let off, ren dered respiration almost impossible. An old pon-gyee however, the only one I ever saw in a temple, seemed quite in his element ; his shaven bristly head and coarse features look ing ugly enough to serve for some favourite idol; and he seemed a fitting embodiment of so senseless and degrading a worship. Offer ings of flowers, paper ornaments, flags, and candles were scattered about in profusion. The beating a bell with a deer's horn, the explosion of crackers, and the rapid mutter ing of prayers, made up a din of sounds, the suitable accompaniment of so misdirected a devotion. The worshippers have little idea of reverence during their prayers; for, though their attitude is certainly one of deep humi lity (the same, however, they observe in the presence of their great men), yet the mind EAENESTNESS OE AN AGED WOMAN. 77 is evidently little impressed. A brief form of words is gabbled over, beads are counted, a meritorious work is performed, and a cer tain amount of merit is supposed to be earned ; but the heart is unmoved, the moral feelings are unawakened. There are of course some exceptions to this general rule. I remember in particular, on this occasion,. observing a very aged woman who appeared to be deeply absorbed. It was an affect ing sight to behold the silver head and withered form bowed low in humility, whilst the feeble shrivelled hands were raised in mute but earnest supplication to the dumb idol, in which she had been taught to see a present God ; and acting up, as she was, to the best of her belief and knowledge, I could not but hope and believe that she was viewed with pity and acceptance by her Omniscient Creator. CHAPTER XL Buffalo Fights — Boat-racing — Rites of Cremation — Burman Pooay. Tavoy is remarkable for its grand annual buffalo fight. This exciting but barbarous diversion is here celebrated with all its an cient pomp and circumstance. At Mergui and Martaban it is also carried On to some extent. The tseekay presides on these occa sions and acts as umpire. This diversion, which appears to retain a strong hold on the affections of the Tavoyers, takes place on a large plain close to the town, at the time of the full moon in October, and towards the close of the rains, which for months have saturated the ground with a deluge of water. Eor many weeks previous to the actual commencement of the sport, preparations are going on in which the liveliest interest is manifested by all classes of the people. In BUFEALO EIGHTS. 79 several parts of the town enormous buffaloes may be seen, destined to take a part in the approaching contest. They are owned by different districts and townships ; and each one is an object of attraction and interest to those who have chosen it for their champion. They sit around the huge animal for hours smoking, chatting, and arguing on its ca pabilities and disposition. They cut for it the freshest grass, and lead it by a cord passed through its nose to the soft mud in which it delights to wallow, and to the cooling stream, where it may often be seen nearly immersed, its broad black nose only raised above the water. At last the long-looked-for day arrives. On the spot before mentioned a number of sheds made of bamboo and thatch, the floors of which are raised several feet from the ground, are erected. All these are crammed with spectators, and thousands more occupy the inclosed space. At length a movement in a certain direction is per ceived, cymbals and drums announce the arrival of the first buffalo, which forthwith 80 BUFFALO FIGHTS. makes its appearance in great state; Eirst of all come a crowd of nearly naked men dancing, shouting, and cutting the most grotesque antics. Next walks the buffalo under a canopy, and surrounded by a white cord held out by some of its supporters. A man leads it by a cord passed through its nose, and it is thus paraded round the ground. In a little while another movement is visible, and the excitement becomes more intense. Another buffalo is seen in the distance slowly wending its way to the scene of conflict. He soon arrives on the field, and is led towards his antagonist. The flags which have been held before the eyes of either animal are now removed, and each is mounted by a Burman, who retains his seat on the animal's back as long as possible, at the imminent risk of being precipitated on the horns, or trampled under the feet, of the contending and enraged buffaloes. No sooner do the animals catch sight of each other than they rush furiously to the combat, and the clash of their massive foreheads may be heard ' BUFFALO FIGHTS. 81 at some distance. And now the excitement of the people is at its height; the mass of human beings sways to and fro and closes around the buffaloes. Peons with long bam boos beat back the crowd. Men interested in the victory of their champion buffalo urge him on in every possible manner. The fray seldom lasts longer than a few minutes, when one of the animals suddenly comes to the conclusion that discretion is the better part of valour, and remembering, no doubt, the maxim of Hudibras, rushes from the field through the midst of the spectators, whilst its antagonist follows at its heels. On they go amid the shouts and laughter of the people, who generally bring them to a stand at a greater or less distance from the original scene of conflict, when a more furious and lasting fight often ensues, in which the tables are sometimes turned, the fugitive becoming in its turn the conqueror. Various bets are made on the issue of the contest, and as soon as it is decided the victorious party re-appear on the ground, yelling", shouting, dancing, G 82 BUFFALO FIGHTS. making the most frantic gestures, rolling in the mud— their dishevelled hair all the while streaming in the wind. Men, boys, and women join in a wild dance ; and, lastly, the victorious buffalo is paraded around the ground by his partizans. He is decked out with flowers, caressed, and in one instance I observed a man kiss the huge brute on his forehead several times with great gusto. After a short interval another pair of buffa loes arrive on the field, when a similar scene takes place. In some cases one of the animals, being imbued, it would appear, with "peace-at-any-price" principles, altogether refuses the combat, and bolts from the ground, to the great disgust of its friends and patrons. The sport continues for two days, during which time eight pair of buffa loes are brought into the field ; but the town continues in a state of excitement for some time, and the victorious buffaloes are pa raded through the streets decked out in various ways, and accompanied by a number of the winning party, all dressed in holiday BOAT-BACES. 83 attire. The young men, clad only in silk put-sos, and gold chains about their necks, dance, whenever the procession stops, to the musical instruments by which it is accom panied. At this season, also, the Lhay peyme pooay, or boat race, takes place, which is certainly a more agreeable sight than that of which I have just endeavoured to give the reader an idea. Erom a high building close to the water's side I was able to obtain a capital view of the whole scene, which was one of the gayest description. A dense mass of Burmans — men, women, and children — all dressed in their most brilliant silks, and glittering with ornaments, gold chr.ins, neck laces, rings, and precious stones, occupied every available spot of ground ; yet all were well-conducted, polite, and accommodating; and, if a European passed through them, a way was promptly opened for him, and every respect exhibited. The umpire's boat Was fastened near the wooden pier that juts out into the river. The racing canoes are thirty G2 84 BOAT-BACES. or forty feet long, and very narrow. Their prows rise obliquely from the water to a considerable height, and they have a some what classical appearance. Down either side of each boat sit fifteen or sixteen athletic rowers, with paddles about three feet in length, which they use with great dexterity. One man stands at the prow, and another at the stern to steer. The former, if his boat wins, immediately throws himself into the most extraordinary and grotesque attitudes, shouting and gesticulating as only a Burman can ; all this being intended as a demon stration of victory. On one occasion, the steersman of the winning boat overbalanced himself in his eagerness and fell into the water, in which a Burman is as much at home as on land ; but the accident occasioned his canoe to lose the race. A great deal of betting goes on all the time, and considerable sums of money change hands. Before leaving Tavoy I had an opportu nity of witnessing the rites of cremation as practised by the Burmans, which, when the BUBNING OF THE DEAD. 85 bodies of priests have to be disposed of, form the most extraordinary of their religious dramas. The gay and festive nature of the Burman religion, and the total absence of all solemnity in the performance of what we should have supposed the most serious and sacred offices of religion to which I have before alluded, are very fully demonstrated at a funeral, which appears to be regarded as an excellent practical joke, a season for the exhibition of buffoonery and mirth. On this occasion the bodies of two pon-gyees, which had been previously embalmed, were to be burnt with the usual amount of serio-comic display. As I approached the open space or plain in which this strange ceremony was to take place, I saw a grand ornamental ceno taph on wheels, in which the coffins were enclosed, slowly moving along amidst a concourse of people all dressed in their holi day attire. Two long ropes were attached to the car, and by means of these it was dragged forward by eager volunteers towards the spot where the burning was to take place — a 86 BUBNING OF THE DEAD. space paved with stones and surrounded by low brick walls, in which an opening was left for the passage of the funeral carriage. On arriving within a few yards of this enclosure a sort of sham contest was enacted, the two parties holding the ropes tugging and drawing in opposite directions, one set pulling one way and the other in an opposite direction, greatly to the amusement of the spectators, till at last one of them was sup posed to be victorious, having succeeded in dragging the cenotaph in triumph to the enclosed space before alluded to. And now a number of women arrived, each bearing a basket filled with fruit and vegetables in tended as offerings for the priests. I counted no less than seventy or eighty of these. Several pon-gyees were in attendance, and one of them superintended the division of the presents, which he accomplished at last apparently to his satisfaction, and squatting down with the other priests by the side of the car they repeated a few prayers; the people betaking themselves to the same atti- BUBNING OF THE DEAD. 87 tude, and muttering some words in chorus. This over, a buffoon displayed his antics, and then a long rope was stretched from the car to a tree at some distance. A rocket was attached to this cord and subsequently fired for the purpose of igniting the combustibles around the bodies. This not having the desired effect, fire was applied to the ceno taph in several places, most of the ornaments and devices with which it was decorated having previously been removed to serve for another occasion. The car was soon in a blaze, and after a short time the blistered remains of the bodies were exposed to view ; but the pyre was kept burning till all was reduced to ashes. The bright azure of the sky, the vivid green of the grassy plain, and the brilliant colours dis played by the congregated people, combined . to form a spectacle both gay and picturesque, but as unlike a funeral as it is possible to conceive. Such a scene carries one back in imagination to classic times, and brings to memory Homer's graphic description of the 88 BUBNING OF THE DEAD. burning of Patroclus, although here there- was no "sad sacrifice" of Trojan captives, nor even of the inferior animals, which, indeed, would be utterly opposed to the prin ciples of Boodhism. A writer in the Maul main Directory gives a graphic account of one of these spectacles in that town, and which I here transcribe. " In the instance," he says, " of the preparation for the funeral rites no means are spared to have, according- to their notions, a magnificent display. The body of the priest is covered with gold leaf and laid in a richly - ornamented coffin. Wooden tubes of various lengths, from about six to ten feet, which, for the want of a more appropriate term, may be called rockets, strongly bound with rattans, and filled with the common ingredients of gunpowder, are fastened to the axles of low carriages of four wheels . Surmounting these are placed figures of men and animals of the most grotesque description, formed of light materials, some of them of enormous size, and in the forma tion of the whole the study and design of the FUNEBAL CEBEMONIES. 89 devisers seem to be to deviate from nature rather than to imitate it. " Every village or district has its body of young men and women formed into separate bands, and at the head of each band is a Burman chosen for the brilliance of his wit, or any other attribute he may possess, which entitles him generally to be acknowledged as the cock of the walk. The bands dress themselves up in uniforms, and by dint of practice, for a month or two before the cere mony takes place, acquire great skill in atti tudinising and accompanying the different figures they execute with songs appropriate to the occasion, laudatory to themselves, and to the particular village to which each sepa rate band belongs. When the time is near for the conclusion of the ceremony, they pass in procession through the town, and visit the houses of the Commissioner and of those Europeans who are agreeable to receive it, preceded by a party of richly-dressed women singing and dancing, and responded to by a larger company of men who follow, wearing 90 FUNEBAL CEBEMONIES. some badge or dress to distinguish one band from the other. On they go, white elephants, giants, horses, rams, buffaloes, dragons, and the likenesses of nothing in heaven above or on the earth beneath innumerable. The songs composed for the occasion are highly in praise of themselves, their villages, and replete with good wishes for the authorities and others whom they visit. The proces sions last for several hours, when the whole move off to prepare for the next day. " On the succeeding morning the streets of the town are filled with men, women, and children in their holiday dress, moving towards the Burmese burial-ground, situated at the back of the Maulmain hills, which is the spot selected for the final exhibition and the performance of the funeral rites. By nine o'clock most of the population of the town take up their position on the heights to the westward of it, from whence they could look down on the plain below ; some on the plain, some on the sides of the hills, having the appearance at a distance FUNEBAL CEBEMONIES. 91 of bees swarming round a hive. Tents formed of handkerchiefs, placed on bamboo sticks, temporary sheds covered with leaves, thousands of umbrellas, the varied and brilliant colours of the Burman dresses, with a white tent occupied by several ladies and gentlemen of the community, pitched in the centre of an animated and easily-pleased mass of people, with the sun shining on the glittering golden ornaments worn by the Burmese, form (assisted by the picturesque nature of the country) as pretty and gay a sight as any could wish to see. If we com pute the number of spectators at these scenes at twelve thousand, we should not probably be far from the truth. " The body of the priest is in a car of state, and placed under a shed decorated with spires, and situated at a distance of about four to five hundred feet. Each village has a wooden gun about fifteen feet in length, and diameter of bore about nine inches. This gun is stuffed to the muzzle with pyrotechnic materials, and is mounted on a car which 92 GBAND PYROTECHNIC DISPLAY. runs on four wheels. On the top of the gun a figure is placed, sometimes the effigy of an archer, sometimes a crab, sometimes a beeloo, or any fanciful device, according to the taste of the villagers. These guns are now fired in rotation, being placed opposite the car in which the body of the pon-gyee lies, first of one village then of another, and so on, pouring vast clouds of smoke, hissing louder than a hundred steam-eneines, and careering across the plain as chance — for they are not guided — conducts their rapid move ments. When the material is all exhausted the machine gradually stops, and the men to whom it belongs rush up, dance, and sing around it. The great point to gain is to be so fortunate as to direct your gun so as to go straight a-head, and strike the car in which the body of the priest lies, and for the combustibles with which the car is crammed to be ignited from the fire of the gun, and the car with the body blown up. On such an event happening great is the joy of the chosen band, and great will be the luck for FREQUENTLY DANGEBOUS TO LIFE. 93 the ensuing year of the villages from whence the gun has been brought. During the many years we have been here we never recollect one to have hit their object ; some deviate to the right and some to the left, while others break down and are thus ' stopped in mid career.' On one occasion the shed was struck by a rocket, and owing to a train of gunpowder being laid on the ground it ignited. The district owning the white elephant ayook (effigy) was the fortunate one of the day. Many doons (rockets) went near the car, and many more went off at an angle of the shed into the jungle. Shortly after the successful ayook had performed its duty the festival was brought to a close, by the few remaining rockets being sent off, and the car set on fire by order of the pon-gyees. We have, unfortunately, been witness to several deaths and severe injuries to persons from the rockets, which, after they are once ignited, are not in any way controlled ; con sequently the least inequality of the ground may turn the car (which runs on four wheels, 94 BURMAN LOVE OF AMUSEMENTS. and on which the rocket is fixed horizontally) off at any angle, and, before the lookers-on know where they are, the machine rushes down on them with the velocity of a steam- engine, overturning every obstacle, and only stopping when all the materials with which it is charged are burnt out. " During the day the town presents quite a deserted appearance. The gharrie-wallahs reap a plentiful harvest, asking as much as from six to ten rupees, and refusing to let their gharries out unless remunerated at these exorbitant rates. " This interesting and imposing ceremony, which had annually been performed in all its grandeur and magnificence, has in a great measure been discountenanced by the autho rities, who either fear their power and capability of preserving the peace of the town during its continuance, or are repug nant to its being performed on the sabbath, a day which is, unfortunately, always chosen for its celebration." The Burman delights in every species of A BUEMAN POOAY OE PLAY. 95 amusement, and is especially fond of a pooay, or play, of which there are a great number just at the close of the rainy season. A play is given by one individual at his own ex pense, and it is perfectly free to every one. A very curious display of this nature is a doll-pooay. A long stage is erected in a con venient spot, where a large space can be ob tained in front for the spectators. As even ing approaches, and some hours before the appointed time, the people take up their position here ; bringing mats, cigars, and betel-nut, they squat down at their ease and determine to make a night of it. In due time a number of dressed-up figures, about the size of large dolls, are let down upon the stage ; the action of these puppets is con trolled by strings, which are managed by men hidden from view. They make these figures act their parts very cleverly, and cause them to hold dialogues with each other ; the voices seeming to come from the dolls. Hundreds of Burmans, both men and women, sit patiently till morning watching 96 SUPEEIOR INDUSTRY OE THE WOMEN. the progress of the play with unflagging interest. A European, however, may very well satisfy his curiosity in an hour. The Burmans are proverbially indolent, but the women are much more industrious than the men. The latter show much skill as carpenters and blacksmiths. CHAPTER XH. Climate — South-west Monsoon — Time of its commence ment and the period of its duration — Average fall of Rain — .Temperature during the Rains — Cool and Hot Seasons — Their respective average Temperatures. Soon after I arrived at Maulmain the south west monsoon set in with almost unusual violence. Much damage was done on the coast, and several ships were driven back by the violence of the wind. The rain at first came down in heavy showers, and it certainly was a great relief from the intense heat that immediately preceded it. After a few days it became a continued pour, saturating the air with moisture, which penetrated everything and everywhere in a remarkable manner. Under its influence books fall to pieces, clothes become mildewed and worthless, and a blue mould creeps over walls and furniture. The everlasting patter of the rain is only varied by the human-like voice of the small house- lizard or gecko, and the cry of the touk-tay H 98 CLIMATE. (a large lizard also found in dwellings), which chimes in now and then bike the striking of a cuckoo-clock, which the very extraordinary sound it makes much resembles. To a stranger this season is particularly depressing, at least I judge so from my own experience ; and Mrs. Judson says, not less truly than beautifully, when writing from Maulmain, during the absence of her husband at this time on a sea-voyage for the benefit of his failing health : — The wild south-west monsoon has risen, With broad grey wings of gloom, While here from out my dreary prison I look as from the tomb, alas! My heart another tomb. Upon the low-thatched roof the rain With ceaseless patter falls ; My choicest treasures bear its stains, Mould gathers on the walls — would Heaven T'were only on the walls. Sweet mother, I am here alone In sorrow and in pain, The sunshine from my heart has flown, It feels the driving rain. Ah me, The chill, and mould, and rain! SOUTH-WEST MONSOON. 99 In this part of Burmah the south-west monsoon generally sets in about the 20th of May amidst storm and tempest, thunder and lightning, wind and rain, and in October it takes its departure in a like boisterous manner. During the five months that it prevails the rain often pours down for days together without cessation, and the sun is obscured for weeks. There are, however, occasional breaks in the weather, when the sun, for a short period, peeps through the dense canopy of clouds that so tempers his fierce rays at what would otherwise be a season of intense and almost unendurable heat. The average fall of rain for the last five years has been, Dr. Walter informed me, 194-28 in. ; but, according to the tables kept by Dr. Morton from the commencement of the year 1841 to the end of the year 1846, the average fall of rain during that time was 216^ inches. The greatest amount of rain ever recorded as having fallen in one day was on the 27th of May, 1857, when 1275 in. was registered, and within the week 40*27 in. H 2 100 TEMPERATURE DURING RAINS. were measured by Dr. Walter, who used two .separate gauges, and took every precaution to guard against error. At this time, and while the rains last, the temperature is re markably uniform, the thermometer ranging between 76° and 82°. Towards the end of the wet season the rain falls in showers with a constantly increasing interval between them, and on its total cessation, when the north-east monsoon sets steadily in, the cool part of the year commences, and continues- till the middle of February. The sun then. regains its power, and the heat increases daily till the south-west monsoon again brings a deluge of waters. This year (1857) rain fell at intervals- during the early part of November. At the change of the monsoon, and during the gradual cessation of the rain, coughs, colds,. and fevers are very prevalent. The morn ings now become cool and pleasant, though often spoilt by a dense fog. A good gallop or a brisk walk at sun-rise is very enjoyable,. and, after a bath and breakfast, the European PREVAILING DISORDERS. 101 feels less disposed than usual to quarrel with a tropical climate, and he is fain to confess that if it were equally good all the year round he would desire nothing better. The thermometer at this time of the year seldom reaches 90° in the shade, and occasionally falls as low as 56°. The prevailing wind is easterly. It is while the cool season prevails that the greatest thermometric range is ob served, which is sometimes as great as 30° in one day. During the succeeding hot months the thermometer in the middle of the " All kinds of misfortune" says the Bev. T. Bigandet, " are attributed to the malignant interference of the evil Nats. In cases of severe illness which have resisted the skill of native medical art, the physician gravely tells the patient and relatives that it is useless to have recourse any longer to medicines, but a conjurer must be sent for to drive out the wicked spirit who is the author of the complaint. Meanwhile direc tions are given for the erection of a shed, where offerings intended for the inimical Nat are deposited. A female relative of the pa tient begins dancing to the sound of the musical instruments. The dancing goes on at first in a rather quiet manner, but-it gra dually grows more animated, until it reaches the acme of animal phrensy. At that mo ment the bodily strength of the dancing lady M 162 GAU-DA-MA. becomes exhausted ; she drops on the ground in a state of apparent faintness ; she is ap proached by the conjurer, who asks her if the invisible foe has relinquished its hold of the disease. Having been answered in the affir mative, he bids the physician to give medi cines to the patient, assuring him that his remedies will now act beneficially for restor ing the health of the sick, since their action will meet no future opposition." Gau-da-ma the last Boodh (or rather his image) now claims the worship of the faith ful until the advent of his successor. Having during a vast number of transmigrations attained a very exalted degree of merit, he was at last born as the son of Shoodawdaneh, king of Behar in Hindostan, about the year 626 B.C. In the thirty-fifth year of his age he became a Boodh, performed numberless good actions, delivered a code of laws, passed much of his time in prayers and meditations, and finally obtained Nieban in the year 542 B.C. His images, now the objects of Bood hist adoration, crowd in great numbers the PBIESTS OR MONKS. 163 temples and other religious edifices of the Burmans. Many are of colossal stature and richly gilt. They are made of wood, metal, alabaster, and earthenware. The sayings of Gau-da-ma, reduced to writing, form the sacred book of the Burmans, which is in the Pali language. Some of the copies are very beautiful, the leaves being covered with a varnish black as jet and hard as enamel, and on these the words are emblaz oned in letters of gold. The Burman word for priest is Pon-gyee or Phon-gyee, meaning " great exemplar" or " great glory." In the writings of the early Portuguese authors they generally go by the name of Talapoms, and this term is still occasionally used by writers. The members of this order are, however, strictly speaking, not so much priests as monks, for in an atheistical system like Boodhism the idea of a priesthood is inad missible. The ostensible object of the bro therhood is the observance of the laws of Boodha in a more perfect manner than is m2 164 ceremony possible while leading a secular life, and the attainment of a degree of excellence and sanctity that would be otherwise impossible. The Burman pon-gyee is not charged with the moral and religious supervision of the people, and does not interfere in their reli gious ceremonies and worship. He renounces the world, its enjoyments and pleasures, wears a particular dress, possesses no pro perty, but is subject to the will of his supe rior and the rules of his order. Nearly every Burman youth becomes the inmate of a kyoung for a longer or shorter time, and this is considered a great event in his life. His relatives and friends accompany him to the threshold of the monastery, where he bids adieu to them and the outer world. His head is shaved, his fine clothes are taken away and replaced by a loose robe of yellow ; study, religious observances, and other duties connected with his new mode of life, now fill up his time. In a procession of this descrip tion ("making a pon-gyee") that I saw at Maulmain last year (1857) there were several OF MAKING A PRIEST. 165 buffoons who displayed their antics whenever the opportunity offered, as during a halt. The boy rode on a pony gaily caparisoned, surrounded by several male attendants, who held a large umbrella over his head, and he was for the time the cynosure of every eye. The object seems to be to crowd into one day the worldly pomp, excitement, and pleasure from which he is to be debarred during his monastic life. The dresses of the women on this occasion were very elaborate, and on their persons were many valuable jewels and gold ornaments. They also carried a number of baskets filled with fruit and other eatables intended as presents to the kyoung of which the youth was about to become an inmate. The young novice ministers to the wants of his superiors; and, besides the five com mandments binding on all Boodhists, he must observe five others, which forbid him to eat after mid-day, to dance, sing, or play on any musical instrument, to colour his face,to stand on elevated places, to touch gold or silver. The trespassing of these may be expiated by 166 GOVERNMENT OF A KYOUNG. penance ; but, if the monk should violate either of those other commandments before enumerated as binding on every one, he is immediately expelled from the monastery. Those who become pon-gyees for a time only generally return to a secular life after a pe riod of one or two years ; others who remain after the age of twenty years are solemnly admitted professed members of the com munity, and receive the name of Patzm. Every kyoung is governed by a head or superior, who regulates its affairs and attends to the moral and religious training of those placed under his direction. There are many of these religious houses in every town and village, and they are under the jurisdiction of a general superior. The ordination of pon-gyees, or the form of admission into the brotherhood which answers to it, is a very long and important ceremony. The candi date must be provided with a vessel of a truncated spheroidal form,* which he uses when, in company with other members of the * TheLatta. PRACTICE OF CONFESSION. 167 kyoung, he goes his morning rounds to collect the food so freely bestowed by the people. He must also produce the yellow garments* in which he is henceforth to be clothed. Even after this solemn consecration to a monastic life the monk may be absolved from his vows and become a lay member of society ; and he may be re-admitted into the order by a repetition of the forms and usages observed on the former occasion. Those who continue pon-gyees for life, or during a long period, are regarded as peculiarly holy. The practice of confession is found to obtain amongst these Boodhist monks, though it is now less strictly observed than formerly, and in many instances has become a mere form. The virtues of humility, self-denial, and chastity are strictly inculcated. The pon-gyee shaves his head, goes bare-footed, and wholly eschews the society of women. Celibacy is indeed very strictly enjoined. The priest is not to remain under the same roof or travel in the * Hiwaran. 168 CELIBACY OF PBIESTHOOD. same carriage or boat as women. Indeed, to such absurd lengths are these precautions carried, that the rules on this head extend even to the mother of a member of the brother hood. " The Wini, in treating of this pre cept," says M. Bigandet, " extends the pro hibition to one's own mother; and, even should it happen that she falls into a ditch, her son, if a pon-gyee, must not pull her out. But, in case no other aid is at hand, he may offer her his habit, or a stick, to help her out, but at the same time he is to ima gine that he is only pulling out a log of wood !" The same rules apply to the inter course of the monks with the nuns. These are comparatively few in number, but they may sometimes, be observed in the streets of a Burman town. They are invariably old women, wrinkled and ugly. They are ha bited in loose garments of a dirty-white colour, and are generally miserable-looking objects. The life of strict celibacy incumbent on every pon-gyee is one reason why the Chris- CELIBACY OE PRIESTHOOD. 169 tian missionaries meet with so few converts amongst the Burmans. " They have wives," they say, " possess goods, and enjoy the good things of this life." All this is, according to their deeply-rooted prejudices, quite incon sistent with the character of a holy man and spiritual guide. A pon-gyee never returns any spoken thanks for anything that may be given him, but he is strictly forbidden to ask for what he may want. He often attains his object, however, by indirect means, and of this I met with some curious instances. At Tavoy on one occasion I accompanied a friend on a visit to a pon-gyee with whom he was acquainted. The kyoungs are always well stocked with images of Gau-da-ma of all sizes, and my companion taking a fancy to one of these asked the good father to give it to him. At first he refused, saying it was against their rules to give anything away ; but he was evidently desirous that his white friend should possess the image ; so after a little while he remarked that, "though he 170 NATIONAL SCHOOLS. could not give it to his visitor, yet if the latter took it, and promised to make plenty of sh6k-ho* to it, he would offer no oppo sition." It was amusing to observe the struggle between his desire to make the present and his fear of violating the rule. Like the pharisees of old, it is to be feared that the yellow brotherhood too often trans gress the spirit, while they observe the letter, of their commandments. On entering a mo nastery I have often been offered cigars and betel-nut. The greatest respect is paid to the order by all classes of the people. Nor does this cease with the death of the pon- gyee ; for when that event takes place he is carefully embalmed, and the rites of crema tion are performed with great display, as described at page 85 et seq. As I have before mentioned, the kyoungs are the national schools of Burmah, where the boys are daily taught free of all charge. * A homage performed by raising the joined hands to the forehead and bending forwards. EDUCATION GENERAL. 171 Hence no male Burman is to be found without some elementary education — an example yet to be imitated by certain free and enlightened countries of the civilised world. Whatever may be the faults of the brotherhood, they doubtless confer, in this respect, an immense boon on their countrymen. This brief account of the great monastic order of the Burmans will, I hope, give the general reader some little insight into the manners, customs, and objects of the society; and, should it be his lot some day to make acquaintance with these strange subjects of England's Queen in their own country, his having previously learned somewhat about them and their religion will not fail to add considerable interest to his intercourse with these disciples of Boodh. CHAPTER XX. Language and Alphabet of the Burmans — Peculiar form of the Burman character — Literature — Specimens — A Kingdom destroyed by a drop of Honey — The Rich Man's Daughter and her three Lovers — The Potter and the Washerman. That great branch of the Mongolian family, which includes those nations inhabiting the south-eastern peninsula, Thibet and China, is characterised by what are termed the mo nosyllabic languages — languages which are without inflection, having neither conjuga tion nor declension, and from the simplicity or rudeness of their construction are more easily acquired by Europeans than those of Western Asia. The vernacular tongue of the Burmans belongs to this class. As it is however diffi cult of pronunciation, and many words spelt exactly alike, and only differing slightly when spoken, have very opposite meanings, it is by LANGUAGE. 173 no means so easy as might at first be sup posed to one accustomed only to the gram matical and finished structure of the western languages. Those Europeans and Americans well acquainted with the Burman tongue with whom I have conversed, invariably pro nounced it a difficult language to master thoroughly. I met, however, with one. ex ception to this universal opinion, in the case of a young officer of considerable talent, who had made astonishing progress in Burmese in a short space of time ; but he evidently possessed a gift for languages. As regards its structural peculiarities, " it has no inflections, and depends almost en tirely on juxta-position for the relative value of its words. Its pronouns and particles are peculiar, its idioms few and simple, its meta phors of the most obvious kind; but it is copious in terms expressive of rank and dig nity, and the rank of the speaker is indicated by the peculiar phraseology which he em ploys. Bepetitions of the same turn of expression are affected rather than shunned, 174 alphabet. and a sententious brevity and naked sim plicity are the greatest beauties of which the language admits. When spoken it is even more simple than if written, the affixed par ticles being often omitted, so that the mere skeleton of a sentence only is presented to the hearer, the speaker, as it may be conjec tured, rather hinting at his meaning than expressing it fully and distinctly, as in more perfect languages." * It is written from left to right, but admits of no division between the words. The alphabet consists of forty-four letters, viz. thirty-four consonants and ten vowels. It has been significantly called "the round o language," as most of its letters are circles, or segments of circles, being in fact a cir cular variety of the ancient Nagri or Pali, and on the introduction of that alphabet and literature from Hindostan many terms de rived from the Pali were adopted ; but they remain as distinctly extraneous now as when they were first admitted. They are used in * Craufurd. PALI, OB SACBED LANGUAGE. 175 Burman books to express certain metaphy sical and pyschological doctrines appertaining to the mysteries of Boodhism, which the vernacular tongue is quite incapable of ren dering.* But, besides the vernacular tongue, the Burmans have in common with other Boodh ist nations a sacred language — the language of the priests and the religious writings. This is the Pali, which bears the same rela tion to the common language of the Burmans as the Sanscrit does to that of the Hindoos. The Palis, according to tradition, were once a powerful nation inhabiting Bengal, Behar, and Oude, their chief city being Baliaputhra, or Babibothra, no remains of which now exist, and even the spot on which it once stood is uncertain : some supposing it to have been that now forming the site of Allahabad, while others point to the neigh bourhood of Bhagulpore on the Ganges, the city and nation having both long since passed away.f * Judson and Latter. f Craufurd. 176 LITEEATUBE. Printing is unknown to the Burmans, except where introduced by the missionaries ; and their literature, if they can be said to have any, is composed chiefly of legends, ballads, and histories. The religious ro mances are compositions of a somewhat higher order. In the royal Hbrary are se veral thousand volumes, including works on ethics, law, history, poetry, and medicine. Some are written on sheets of ivory, the margins of which are gilt, others on fine palmyra leaves variously ornamented; but those of a common sort are made of an in ferior palm-leaf, on which, as has been already mentioned, the letters are engraved with an iron stile. Books in the Pali character, which is square and angular, are often richly orna mented, and written on sheets of ivory, silver, or copper. The palmyra leaf is generally used for letter-writing, and is then made up into a circular form, and sealed or tied with tape.* In British Burmah, however, paper used for writing material by some of the * Symes. LITEEATUBE. 177 pon-gyees in the kyoungs, as weU as by the elder pupils.* The Damathat, which has been already aUuded to as forming the Burman code of laws, may also be quoted to illustrate the spirit of Burman literature, of which, indeed, it is an important part. The following sig nificant story is from the fourteenth volume of that great work : — "Begarding a Case where a Kingdom was destboyed by a Drop of Honey. "Oh excellent king ! Kings, ministers, and the heads of the people must instruct and warn them that great offences may be dimi nished, andsmaU offences extinguished; they shall not say, ' Oh, the. case has not come before me, the people please themselves,' and thus be negligent and only enjoy themselves ; for, throughout the whole succession of worlds, every Para has declared that ' cities and kingdoms are destroyed by enemies who, originaHy insignificant, have in the process * Personal experience. N 178 "A KINGDOM DESTROYED of time become powerful. As an illustration : in former times in Benares, when Brahmadat was king, he had a bramin prophet whom he consulted, by day and by night. One day, seated on an exalted place, the king and the bramin were eating parched corn mixed with honey, on a beautiful white cloth; as the king was helping himself a drop of honey as large as a mustard-seed fell on the cloth ; the king and the bramin both saw it : the king, maintaining his dignity, did not wipe it up, and the bramin, it being more imme diately before the king, would not venture to stretch out his arm to do so : a fly came and ate it; but neither would move to drive it away : then a spider came and swallowed the fly; still, though both saw it, neither would drive it away : and after this a lizard seized and swallowed the spider : and, even then, neither drove it away : next a rat came and swaUowed the Hzard ; still, though both saw it, neither would interfere : then a cat came and ate up the rat ; then a dog attacked the cat, and the owner of the cat and dog BY A DB0P OF HONEY." 179 quarrelled, and still the king and the bramin did not interfere to put a stop to it, but con tinued thoughtlessly to enjoy themselves. The owner of the dog went to one of the princes, and the owner of the cat to another, and when both had collected a strong party they came to blows ; and then, though the king, and the bramin, and the ministers tried to quiet the disturbance, they could not, and, the strength of the parties increasing, the king, the bramin, the wealthy, and the poor were killed and destroyed : and thus the kingdom of Benares came to an end, as is weU known, all through a single drop of honey. This the words of the gods of the succession of worlds, Menoo, the recluse, the son of the king of Bymahs, revealed to the great king Maha Thamadah." To give an illustration of the spirit of "The Decisions of Princess Thoo-dhamma Isari," another Burman book, I select the following from that work.* * Translated from the Burmese by Captain Sparks, principal Assistant-Commissioner of Arracan. n2 180 " the rich man's daughter " Introduction. "The words of kings, of nobles, of judges^ and of wise men are to be likened to the stroke of a thunderbolt, to a two-edged sword cutting through a plantain-leaf, to a strong wind shaking a tree. Judges who have at heart their happiness in this world and the next should continuaUy examine the whole of the law with a view to the destruction of evil-doers, and after inquiry into aU offences great and small, according to law, should de cide justly." " The Bich Man's Daughter and her three Lovers (Story 15). "During the era of Gaunagong* there Hved in Kambautsa four rich men, between whom existed a warm friendship. Three of them had each one son, whilst the fourth had an only daughter of perfect beauty, and to her each of the three young men sent a * The twenty-fifth Boodh, who lived 30,000 years, and was thirty cubits in stature. > AND her three lovers." 181 messenger. The first promised that if she died before she was fifteen he would perform her funeral rites with every care. To this her parents repHed, < It is well.' The second sent to say that in the above case he would coUect her ashes.* To this also her parents signified their assent. The third sent to say that he would watch her tomb ; to which her parents returned the same answer as before. " The damsel did die before she had at tained her fifteenth year, and her parents desired the young men to bury her as they had promised; whereupon the first per formed the rites of cremation, the second collected and removed her ashes, and the third kept watch over them in the cemetery, according to their respective promises. A jagee, who had come from the Himalaya forests, happening to pass that way at the time, saw the young man keeping watch, and inquired the reason of his doing so, to which * Literally, " carry her bones." It is the custom at Burmese funerals, after burning the corpse, to collect the remains and bury them. 182 LITERATURE. he replied he was watching over the bones of the dead. ' Would you wish the dead to be restored to life ?' asked the jagee, ' I would,' replied the youth ; upon this the jagee re stored the damsel to life in all her pristine beauty of form and feature. " The first rich man's son said (when he saw her,) ' I bore her corpse to the funeral pile and burnt it, therefore ought she not to be mine ?' the second, ' I collected her bones, ought she not to be mine ?' the third, ' whilst I was watching in the cemetery she returned to life, ought she not to be mine ?' ' But what is the use of disputing with each other ? Let us submit to the decision of princess Thoo-dhamma Isari.' So they aU three repaired to her presence and related to her the affair. When she had heard them she thus gave judgment : { I understand this matter ; one of you burnt the corpse of the damsel, and went his way : the second col lected her ashes, and did Hkewise : but the third kept watch over her remains, although the family of a watcher in a cemetery is de- LITERATURE. 183 graded to the seventh generation. During his watching also the damsel returned to life ; therefore, as he deserted her not in death, let him be her partner in life.' " " The Potter and the Washerman. "In the olden time, during the era of Thoo-moyd-ha,* a potter conceived an evil de sign against a washerman, who lived with considerable ostentation, and, being unable to bear the sight of the wealth which the latter had acquired by washing clothes, he deter mined to come to an open rupture with him. With this view he went to the king and said, ' Tour majesty's royal elephant is black; but, if you were to order the washerman to wash it white, would you not become lord of the white elephant ?'f This speech was not made from any zeal for the king's advantage, but because he thought that if the order was * The sixteenth Boodh, who lived 90,000 years, and was eighty-eight cubits in stature. f The white elephant is so highly prized in Burmah that it is regarded almost in the light of a deity ; and the king would consider it a great calamity to be without one. 184 " THE POTTER given to the washerman according to his sug gestion, and the elephant should not turn white after all, the fortune of the washer man would come to an end. " The king, on hearing the representation of the potter, took for granted it was sincere, and, being deficient in wisdom, he, without consideration, sent for the washerman and ordered him to wash the royal elephant white. " The washerman, seeing through the pot ter's design, replied, ' Our art requires that, in order to bleach cloth, we should first put it in a boiler with soap and water, and then rub it well. In this manner only can your Majesty's elephant be made white.' The King considering that it was a potter's busi ness, and not a washerman's, to make . pots, called for the potter, and said to him, ' Heh, you potter, a pot is required to lather my elephant in ; go and make one large enough for the purpose.' The potter on receiving this order collected together aU his friends and relations ; and, after they had accumu lated a vast quantity of clay, he made -a pot AND THE WASHERMAN." 185 big enough to hold the elephant, which on completion he laid before the King, who deHvered it over to the washerman. " The washerman put in soap and water ; but, as soon as the elephant placed his foot upon it, it broke in pieces. " After this the potter made many others, but they were either too thick, so that the water could not be made to boil in them, or too thin, so that the first pressure of the elephant's foot smashed them to pieces. In this manner being constantly employed he was unable to attend to his business, and so he was utterly ruined. Therefore such as aim at the destruction of others wiU find ¦that their weapons will fail to reach those whom they intended, and will only recoil upon their own heads. Although a person be ever so poor, he ought not to design evil against others. Men who are guilty of treacherous actions should be avoided." Such stories, containing as they do excel lent morals, are admirably adapted for the simple people for whom they are intended. CHAPTER XXI. Tribes inhabiting the Tenasserim Provinces — The Talaings — Selungs — Karens — Their remarkable traditions — Spe cimen — Curious instance of zeal outstripping knowledge amongst the Pwo Karens — Karen School at Tavoy. Besides the true Burmans, there are several other tribes to be found scattered over the Tenasserim provinces. The Telaings, or Moans, are descendants of the ancient Peguans, and are now so intermingled with the Burmans, whom they resemble in appearance, dress, manners, cus toms, and reHgion, that a stranger cannot distinguish one from the other. Their lan guage, however, is different. It is said that no very friendly feeHng exists between the two races, the national antipathy of former times not having yet died out. The Toungthus, a wandering tribe, are very thinly scattered over the provinces; VARIOUS TRIBES IN BURMAH. 187 their head-quarters being in Burmah proper. They caU themselves Pa-au. Their language has some affinity with that of the Pwo- Karens ; and they write it in the Burman character.* In the islands of the Mergui archipelago, a poor and inoffensive people are found, known by the name of Selungs, or Salones. The Bev. Mr. Kincaid, who paid a visit to them some years ago, writes : "I am now surrounded by about three hundred souls, men, women, and children, entirely free from aU reHgion. They have no God, no temple, no priest, no holy day, and no prayers. In their domestic habits they are free from aU conventional rules. They are very poor too, having no houses, no gardens, no cultivated fields, nor any domestic animals but dogs. I never saw such abject poverty, such an entire destitution of aU the comforts of life." Their food is rice and fish; the former, as weU as clothes, they obtain at Mergui, where they also dispose of the sea-slugs, which it is * Mason. 188 THE KARENS. their employment to coUect at low water, at the time of the north-east monsoon. During the south-west monsoon they occupy them selves in making mats. The missionaries have effected a few conversions amongst them. But, perhaps, in some respects at least, the most interesting people inhabiting British Burmah are the Karens, a wandering race. Of these there are two distinct tribes, viz. the Pwos or Talaing Karens, and the Sgaus or Burman Karens. They are met with in every part of the country. Their languages are somewhat different, but have a common origin ; and, when one is acquired, the other is easily learnt.* "The Sgaus are remarkable," says Mason, "for the scriptural traditions that exist among them. They have traditions of the creation, the temptation, the fall, and the dispersion of nations, in prose and verse, nearly as accurate as they are found in the Bible. The following is a single specimen : — * Mason. TRADITION OF THE CREATION. 189 Anciently God commanded, but Satan ap peared, bringing destruction. Eormerly God commanded, but Satan ap peared, deceiving unto death. The woman E-u and the man Tha-nai pleased not the eye of the dragon. The persons of E-u and Tha-nai pleased not the mind of the dragon. ? The dragon looked on them ; the dragon beguiled the woman and Tha-nai. How is this said to have happened ? The great dragon succeeded in deceiving — deceiving unto death. How do they say it was done? A yellow fruit took the great dragon, and gave to the children of God. A white fruit took the great dragon, and gave to the daughter and son of God. They transgressed the commands of Gody and God turned his face from them. They transgressed the commands of God, and God turned away from them. They kept not all the words of God— were deceived, deceived unto sickness. 190 KARENS APT CONVERTS They kept not aU the law of God — were deceived, deceived unto death." In consequence of these remarkable tradi tions, which they say are derived from a book they once possessed, but have now lost, and also the belief that this book, together with true religion, was to be restored to them by white teachers from beyond the sea, they have proved very apt disciples of the Christian missionaries established in Burmah ; some of whom are especiaUy deputed to this par ticular race. We have seen that the Burmans possess a regularly organised religion — one calculated to have a very strong hold on the mind of a half-civilised and uneducated people — with temples and sacred edifices almost innu merable. But it is far otherwise with the Karens ; they are not Boodhists, and, if we except the scriptural traditions so remark ably preserved among them, have no religious creed, no systematic theology or mythology, and, as a consequence^ no priests, monks, nor monastic institutions. TO CHRISTIANITY. 191 The Burmans have ever, with a few ex ceptions, turned a deaf ear to the Christian teachers, whom they cannot be brought to look on as possessed of any pretension to a sacred character, inasmuch as they possess goods and houses, of their own and, worst of aU — most abominable of all in Burman esti mation — actuaUy have wives, and do not whoUy eschew the company of- women. On the other hand, the Karen Mission is one of the most successful in the world. Their lan guage, which was merely oral, has been reduced to writing by the missionaries, and is printed in the Burman character, with some slight additions. A dictionary, gram mar, and the whole Bible have been issued in the Sgau dialect. " In the Tenasserim provinces alone (says Mason) more than fifty different villages and hamlets have been occupied for a longer or shorter period by native assistants, under the direction of the missionaries, most of whom have charge of schools. " Owing to the erratic habits of the people 192 KARENS APT CONVERTS many of these stations have been abandoned for others, but the last reports show that fifteen are occupied in the provinces of Tavoy and Mergui, and about the same number in the province of Amherst. Upwards of a thousand Karens have been baptized in the southern provinces, of whom rather more than a tenth have been Pwos and the others Sgaus. Ac cording to the last report the present num ber of baptized converts in the Tavoy and Mergui provinces is nine hundred and thirty- three. " About the same number have been bap tized in Amherst province. The whole Karen population of these provinces does not pro bably exceed sixteen thousand. "In the district of Rangoon there are about twenty out-stations, and more than a thousand Karens have been baptized, nearly aU of whom have been Sgaus. " In the districts of Bassein and Sandoway more than six thousand Karens have been baptized, of whom about three hundred have been Pwos. More than five thousand un- TO CHRISTIANITY. 193 baptized Christians, or catechumens, are also reported from the same region. " Thus, in less than a quarter of a cen tury from the commencement of missionary labours among the Karens, near ten thousand persons have been baptized, and more than fifteen thousand hopefully converted. At the present time there are between ninety and one hundred out-stations scattered over an extent of country embraced in six degrees of latitude and five of longitude, at each of which are located native teachers and preachers able to expound the New Testa ment, and to teach the elements of know ledge usuaUy taught in common schools in Europe and America. " It will be observed that, in proportion to the population, a very large number of Karens have embraced Christianity in these provinces : in Tavoy and Mergui about one- sixth, and in Amherst province one-tenth." It has been stated that comparatively few of the Pwo Karens have become Chris tians, and one reason is that Boodhism o 194 INSTANCE OF has gained some footing amongst themj and just in proportion as this is the case the prospect of their receiving the purer creed is lessened. When the missionaries teH the Boodhist of the true God, he asks who his father was, and many other equally absurd questions. "We know," he says, " who Gau-da-ma was, and who his parents were ; but of this God of yours we know nothing." Mason, in his history of the first Karen convert, pubHshed in a missionary magazine, relates a highly amusing and. characteristic instance of zeal outstripping knowledge amongst the Pwo Karens. He says : " On reaching Tamenmats, a Pwo set tlement, we found one or two men who had visited Mr. Boadman in' Tavoy, and returned with the report that all the people were directed by him to build zayats, and worship according to the Christian books. They had therefore built a very fine chapel, with a graduated pyramidal roof, after the model of the finest Boodhistic religious buildings. The interior had a double court, one elevated ZEAL OUTSTRIPPING KNOWLEDGE. 195 a few steps above the other, and a central room, each separated from the other by a partition of mats three or four feet high. A model of a smaUer temple stood in the cen tral sanctum sanctorum, in which was placed a bundle of Burmese tracts, with a copy of St. Matthew's Gospel. One of their number had taken the office of teacher upon himself — cut his hair short, wore a close cap decorated with rows of the golden-green wing-cases of buprestis beetles, and dressed himself in a long white robe like a Mahomedan imaum. On their worship days the teacher, or some other of their number who could read Burmese, read a portion of Matthew or one of the tracts, and they were then laid in the Httle temple, when aU prostrated themselves and worshipped the books. The teacher prayed before us most eloquently for the spread of Christianity, and readfly agreed, as did his people, to purge the chapel of every thing objectionable, and render his worship more like the teaching of the scriptures . Next rainy season this teacher called on me in 0 2 196 KAREN SCHOOL AT TAVOY. Tavoy, professing himself a sincere believer ; but he said, when he began to require the people to act in accordance with the Scrip tures, they drove him out of the settlement. They were aU ready to worship the Bible, prostrating themselves and knocking their heads on the ground, but not one was wnling to obey the precepts it enjoined." At Tavoy I was present at an examin ation of a Karen school, which was under the training of the Bev. Mr. Cross, a most indefatigable labourer. The youths, who were quiet in demeanour and inteUigent-look- ing, were questioned on scripture history, the principles of the Christian religion, elementary science, and arithmetic by the deputy-commissioner, the doctor, and other visitors, as well as bv Mr. Cross himself. They answered readily and for the most part correctly, appearing fully to understand and enter into the several subjects. CHAPTER XXII. Burman War of 1824-6 — Causes which led to it — The Andaman Islands and their Inhabitants — The British land and take possessipn of Rangoon — Actions at Yang- hoo and Joazoang — Defeat of the Burmans. In a work that relates chiefly to the Tenas serim provinces, it may not be out of place to present a brief sketch of the war by which they became an integral part of the British Empire. I shaU endeavour to do this in the foHowing images, but for a fuller account I must refer the reader to the works of Colonel Symes, Major Snodgrass, and a few others, who have been my principal authorities. The Peguans and other neighbouring na tions having been conquered by the victorious arms of the Burmans, and absorbed into their empire, they not unnaturally fell into the error of supposing that no power could stand against them, and the conquest of Bengal, as well as the other British posses- 198 FIRST burmAn war. sions in Hindoostan, became the object of their ambition.- The king lent a willing ear to the flatteries of his officers, particularly his great general Maha Bandoola (a title signifying one who moves with the agiHty of a monkey). " Wherefore," said he, " should we not take the provinces of the English ?" " Give me but an army, and I will conquer the whole country." He was at last gratified by leading troops through the Aeng pass to attack our eastern frontier, which was then by no means in an efficient state of defence ; and it is even said he took with him a pair of golden fetters wherewith to bind the Governor-General, who was to be dragged a prisoner to the golden footstool. The British landing meanwhile at Bangoon, he was quickly recaUed in order to defend his coun try from the very people he had gone to attack. A belief also obtained amongst the Bur mans that their king was one day to rule over the British territories westward of the Ganges. They had formed a very erroneous BUBMAN AGGEESSION. 199 opinion not only of the Sepoys, but also of the British troops ; and it was in utter igno rance of the enemy with whom they had to deal, and with Mind infatuation as to conse quences, that they provoked a power before which Tippo and the fierce Mahrattas had succumbed. "To kiH and crush the rebel strangers — to let none escape, but, by dint of his golden majesty's omnipotence — to destroy and utterly annihilate the wild foreigners," were the orders issued by the king ; and such-like feats the generals thought them selves sure of aecompHshing. Numerous acts of aggression and provoca tion had been committed by the Burmans against the Anglo-Indian government, arising chiefly out of the emigration of the Arra- canese into the territories of the East India Company, from whence they made hostile incursions into the Burman dominions, and then again sought the protection of the British flag. But towards the end of the year 1823 an outrage was committed by the Burmans, which, as aU reparation and 200 BUBMAN AGGBESSION. apology was refused, left no alternative but a declaration of war. This was an attack on Suparee, a little sterile island or sandbank situated at the mouth of the Nauf, a river of Chittagong. Of this the Burmans took pos session, expelHng the few Sepoys who had been stationed there. No time was lost in re-capturing the island ; but to all remon strances and representations the Burman government turned a deaf ear, plainly enough showing that the king sanctioned, if he did not instigate, the lawless proceedings of his generals. Our eastern frontier, which indeed possessed but a few scattered regi ments of Sepoys for its defence, was exposed to the predatory incursions of marauding parties from Assam and Munipore. Early in 1824 frequent skirmishes took place be tween the Company's troops and the invaders, in which the latter were always discomfited. On the 21st of Eebruary, however, a disaster happened which rendered it imperative to act with decision and no longer to trifle with the danger that threatened our Indian pos- BEPULSE OF THE BBITISH. 201 sessions. Lieut.-Colonel Bowen, with a force of fifteen hundred Sepoys, attacked a party of Burmans two thousand strong, who had taken up a position at Doodputlee, which they had strengthened according to custom by a stockade. He met on this occasion with a serious check, losing five officers and one hundred and fifty men. After this repulse only one course was open to the British authorities, and a formal declaration of war was the result. It was determined that , Bangoon should be taken possession of, as being the principal sea-port of the Burman empire, and affording easy access into the interior of the country by means of the Irra- waddy; and it was hoped that submission and reparation would be made as soon as the town should be taken by the invading army. A force of from five thousand to six thousand men was speedfly organised and placed under the command of Brigadier-General Sir Archi bald Campbell ; and the land-locked harbour of Port Cornwallis, in the Great Andaman Island, was the appointed place of rendez- 202 THE ANDAMAN ISLES. vous. These soHtary isles have a beautiful appearance as they first break upon the sight of those approaching from the Indian coast, especiaUy after the fiat country around Cal cutta. The mountains, which are covered with luxuriant vegetation down to the water's edge, rise green and beautiful out of the white surf that dashes at their base, and, crowned by the sombre " Saddle Peak," tower to a considerable height. Beautiful sheUs — gorgonias, madrepores, and cowries — He thick upon the shore. The romantic , scenery, the teeming luxuriance of the vege table world, contrasts strangely with the stunted growth and ugly features of the wretched savages who inhabit these island solitudes. Their dwellings are the rudest, and their only clothing the thick mud with which they plaster themselves as a protection against the swarms of insects that attack their otherwise naked bodies. They subsist chiefly on shell-fish, which are very abundant, but they are sometimes, in inclement weather, reduced to the greatest straits. Their only THE ANDAMAN ISLES. 203 weapons are the bow, arrow, and dart. In the dense forests, which occupy so large a portion of these isles, grow the spreading banyan, the almond-tree, the giant iron-tree whose tough grain turns back the edge of the sharpest axe, the red-tree which rivals mahogany in the beauty of its wood, the cocoa-nut palm, whHst around their trunks entwine innumerable creepers, forming an impenetrable barrier. A settlement was estabHshed by the East India Company, in the year 1791, in the southern part of the Great Andaman ; but in 1793 it was removed, by the advice of Admiral CornwalHs, to the spot that now bears his name. It was de signed for a convict estabHshment and as a shelter for ships during the north-east mon soon; but the unhealthiness of the cHmate compeUed its entire abandonment in the year 1796. In November last (1857) the Hon. Com pany's steamer Pluto left Maulmain for the Andamans, for the purpose of conveying thither several scientific gentlemen deputed 204 BBITISH ATTACK by Government to report upon these islands, with a view to again establish a settlement in some favourable locality; a measure of great importance in many points of view. The expedition was accompanied by several experienced photographers, so that scenes which civflized man has never beheld, and on which the artist has never tried his skill, will be copied with a fidelity that no pencil can imitate, and rendered familiar to the world. But to return to the year 1824. By the 4th of May the ships Liffey, Larne, Sophie, and Slaney, belonging to the Boyal Navy, forty transports, and several Company's cruisers, having on board the 41st Begiment, a Madras European regiment, and six regiments of Sepoys, reached Port CornwalHs ; these troops, with others which were to follow, making a force of nearly ten thousand men. The fleet left the harbour and stood to sea on the morning of the 5th, and after a fine run anchored off the mouth of the Bangoon river. The Burmans were taken quite by surprise. The alarm was quickly given by means of ON RANGOON. 205 beacons at the guard-houses at the entrance of the river, and at night blazing fires sig nalled the danger that threatened the do minions of "the Lord of Earth and Air;" whilst the people could be discerned flying into the interior with bundles on their heads containing the most valuable of their worldly possessions. On the 11th the ships advanced up the river, the Liffey leading the van, and the same evening they reached Bangoon and anchored at the King's wharf. The conster nation of the authorities was great ; and their first thought was to revenge themselves on the Europeans living in Bangoon. Accord ingly, the British merchants and the Ame rican missionaries (between whom the Bur mans could not make any distinction) were seized, fettered, and locked up in the Custom House, whence they were dragged to the Hall of Justice, bullied, threatened, and driven again to prison. They were finally condemned to die, and their inhuman jailors made every preparation for their execution. 206 DEFENSIVE TACTICS sharpening and exhibiting before them the instruments of death; but the authorities, dreading probably the vengeance of the in vading force, delayed from time to time to carry out the sentence, and at last a shot from the Liffey put a sudden stop to their deHberations, and compelled them to seek safety in flight. The prisoners were sent up the country, and after enduring great hard ships were in the end rescued. And now commenced that defensive system of warfare which the Burmans always adopt in presence of a superior enemy. The go vernment assembled the whole of the inhabi tants of Bangoon, and, placing them under the command of officers and slaves of the government, had them driven like cattle into the jungles, leaving behind a deserted city which could afford no support or assistance to the invading army ; and so perished the hopes long entertained that the inhabitants would accept the protection of the British (promises of which had been circulated amongst the people), and afford them the OF BUBMESE. 207 means of transport by boats up the Irra- waddy. The British force landed and took possession of the deserted town. Proclama tions were despatched by stragglers, inviting them to return and accept protection, but in vain, for their wives and children, who were held as hostages by the Burman chiefs, would in that case have been put to death. Mean while, the tocsin of war sounding throughout the country, caUed the people to arms, and a strong force was organised with aU the haste of which the Burman government was capa ble. War-boats covered the Irrawaddy, and every preparation was made for driving the foreigners into the sea from whence they came. The south-west monsoon now brought about the rainy season in this part of the country, and the jungles swarmed with armed men skilled in desultory warfare. The first action of any consequence took place on the 28th of May, when Sir A. CampbeU decided onmaking a reconnoissance, and for this purpose advanced from the lines with a force composed of two companies of 208 ATTACK ON THE the 13th Light Infantry, one hundred strong; the flank companies of the 38th Begiment, two hundred; four hundred Native Infantry, and two field-pieces. The latter had, how ever, to be left behind in consequence of the state of the ground, which was saturated by the pouring rain, and knee-deep in mud. It was found that the enemy had taken up a strong position at the viUages of Yanghoo and Joazoang, flanked by a jungle, and de fended by two stockades, from which a heavy fire was opened on the advancing troops, who were unable to reply by a single shot ; their muskets having been rendered quite useless by the rain. The Burmans received the at tacking force with a terrific yell, the beating- of tomtoms, and loud cries of "Come, come!" They made a gaUant defence, exhibited a re markable contempt of death, and neither gave nor expected quarter. The stockades, which were garrisoned by about fifteen hun dred men (the whole force numbering some seven thousand), were quickly stormed, three STOCKADES OF JOAZOANG. 209 or four hundred of the enemy losing their lives in the defence. " The stockades of Joazoang," says an eye witness, " were of an irregular shape ; the parapet was about four feet high, made of piles driven into the ground, and banked up by earth taken from a trench in the interior of about three feet deep, so that a person standing in the trench was completely under cover from the fire of the assailants. In the face of the stockade large bamboos were fixed, which answered as loopholes through which to fire, and large mats were strongly fastened on the outside of the parapet, so as to prevent the interior being seen, and also to preclude the possibility of getting over the scaHng ladders. But the most material de fence of a stockade was in the abattis by which it was surrounded. This is made with branches of trees pointed at the end, and firmly and thickly planted in the ground ; they are succeeded by rows of sharp bamboo- spikes, which, in the heat of the moment, being unobserved, penetrate deep into the 210 STOCKADES OF JOAZOANG. feet, and occasion wounds of the most pain ful nature ; the whole is surrounded by two rows of railing, so that, if a good fire is kept up from the work itself, the obstacles to be surmounted are far from despicable." After burning these stockades, as night was drawing on, the troops returned to quarter, having given the Burmans a salutary lesson as to the sort of enemy with whom they had to deal. CHAPTER XXIII. The Burmans pretend to negotiate — Advance of the British on Kemmendine, and Storming of the Advanced Works — Kemmendine taken possession of — Sickness in the British Camp — Storming of Kummeroot — Expedition against Tavoy and Mergui — The Princes of Tongho and Sarrawaddy join the Burman Army — Syriam captured — Attack of the " Invulnerables " on the Pagoda — Scarcity of fresh Provisions — Descent upon Martaban and Yeh— A Detachment advances to Pegu. After the affair of Joazoang, the Burmans commenced stockading the heights of Kem mendine (a village three miles above Ban goon), and rendering them as impregnable as possible; but, fearing an attack whilst these works were in progress, they made a pretence of negotiating, and accordingly, on the 9th of June two war-boats, each con taining fifty men, and bearing a flag of truce, arrived at Bangoon. Two deputies, one the p2 212 BURMANS PRETEND TO NEGOTIATE. ex-governor of Bassein, desired a conference with the EngHsh general, which was readfly granted. The ex-governor inquired "Why the EngHsh had come with soldiers and ships, and what they wanted ?" The reasons were fully explained, and, after many evasive re plies, they requested a truce of a few days, in order to consult an officer of rank at some distance ; but, as their object was plainly to - gain time, their proposition was negatived. At two o'clock the foUowing morning three thousand men moved forward to attack Kem mendine, taking with them four eighteen- pounders, besides field-pieces and heavy mor tars, aU of which had to be dragged through the mud by the men, as no draught animals could be procured. The road to Kemmendine runs paraUel to the river, and at about a mile and a half from Bangoon takes its course over a hill of moderate elevation. Here was planted a stockade, which it was necessary to capture before any further advances could be made. This was quickly done, and no time was lost ATTACK ON KEMMENDINE. 213 in hastening onward to the Great Kemmen dine stockade, which was partly concealed from view by the dense jungle surrounding it. When reached it was too late to com mence the attack that day, and the troops had to pass the night without even the pro tection of great coats, and exposed to a deluge of rain, which poured down incessantly. " The night we passed in this situation," remarks one who experienced the hardships he describes, " was such as may easily be imagined. Soft mud for the bed of such as choose to He down, and the trunk of a tree for a pillow ; but so powerful an anodyne is fatigue, that, notwithstanding these disad vantages, accompanied by continual firing and the yeUs of the enemy, many slept soundly, or passed the night -joyfully antici pating the approaching attack on the enemy. " The shouts of the Burmans had a curious effect, heightened by the wild scenery of the dark gloomy forest which surrounded us. Eirst, a low murmur might be heard, rising as it were gradually in tone, and followed by 214 SICKNESS IN BRITISH CAMP. the wild and loud huzza of thousands of voices ; then again aU was sflence, save now and then a straggHng shot or challenge from our sentries ; and soon after another peal of voices would resound through the trees. This they continued aU night, but towards morn ing the yells became fainter and fainter, and at daybreak they totaHy ceased." At this time a more insidious foe entered the British camp, and struck down many a stalwart frame. Disease, brought on by ex posure to the weather, the soldiers on guard being often up to their knees in mud, sent many to their graves, and a stiU greater number to the hospital, from which indeed there was little chance of returning, for salt beef and biscuit were alone obtainable as food, and, on such diet, those once attacked with dysentery could have smaU prospect of recovering. The whole country, for miles around, had been swept of cattle and food of every description, and even evacuated by the inhabitants, in accordance with the poHcy adopted by the Burman government. STORMING OF KUMMEROOT. 215 On the 1st of July some skirmishing took place, in which the Sykia Woon-gyee and his men were completely defeated, and forced to retreat. A new commander, the Shumbah Woon- gyee, was appointed, who lost no time in throwing up a number of formidable stock ades in a position of great strength at Pagoda Point, about seven miles from Bangoon, and also at Kummeroot, where the main army was entrenched. Sir A. CampbeU determined to dislodge this force, and cap ture the stockades without delay. Brigadier- General Macbean had the command of the land troops, which were composed of one thousand British soldiers and five hundred Sepoys, while the Commander-in-Chief, with another column of considerable strength, and attended by gun-boats, proceeded by water. Arrived on the field of action, a heavy can nonade was opened on the stockade, which soon silenced the enemy's guns. The storm ing party, made up of detachments from the King's 41st regiment, and the 17th Madras 216 STORMING OF KUMMEROOT. Native Infantry, commanded by Lieut.-Col. Godwin and Major Wahab, effected a landing, and in a very short space of time captured the great stockade. The attack of the land- column was equally spirited. Brigadier- General M'Creagh, with five hundred men from the 13th and 38th regiments, com manded by Majors Sale and Erith, advanced to the attack. The first stockade was captured in a few moments, and then the troops rushed on stockade after stockade, until the works were carried in every direction. The enemy had taken refuge in an inner stockade, into which a party entered and drove them out on the bayonets of their comrades. " The panic that now took place among the Bur mans," says the authority before quoted, "can scarcely be described ; rushing in crowds towards the only gate through which they might escape, they completely choked it up ; others then attempted to climb over the waUs, but were mowed down by our shot, and those at the gate were faUing by dozens. DESPERATE DEFENCE. 217 Some became quite desperate, and with their long disheveUed hair streaming over their shoulders, and giving them the most fero cious appearance, seized their swords with both hands, and dashed on the bayonets of the soldiers, where they met that death which they seemed alternately to fear and despise ; whilst others hid themselves in the trenches full of water, and there lay motion less, feigning to be dead. The carnage was very great, at least five hundred men being slain in the main stockade, and amongst them was the Shumbah Woon-gyee. When the firing first commenced he had been wounded, and his attendants were carrying him into the jungles amidst a host of fugi tives, when he received another shot, which terminated his existence. Many other chief tains of rank also fell : one had attacked a soldier of the Thirteenth, and was in the act of cutting him down, when Major Sale came to his assistance, and, having felled the Burman to the ground, rescued the soldier from his perilous situation." These works, which 218 CAPTURE OF TAVOY AND MERGUI. were of great extent, embracing ten stockades, and weU mounted with artillery, had been defended by ten or twelve thousand men, one thousand of whom, it was estimated, were killed; while the loss on the side of the British did not amount to more than about fifty men. This success had the effect of dispersing for a time the Burman army. The rain continued without intermission, and the sickness amongst the European troops rapidly increased. As no advance could be made before the month of January, the intermediate time was improved by fitting out an expedition for the capture of the maritime possessions of the Burman monarch. It comprised the 89th King's Begiment and the 7th Madras Native In fantry, under the command of Lieut.-Col. Mills. The object in view was speedily accomplished. Tavoy surrendered, Mergui was captured, and the whole of the Tenas serim provinces accepted British protection. The Princes of Tongho and Sarrawaddy, brothers of the King, arrived at the seat of THE "INVULNERABLES." 219 war about this time, with the intention of directing in person the operations of the Burman army, aided by certain astrologers, in whom this people place great faith ; nor was this aU, the King's " Invulnerables " were likewise despatched from Ava, to effect by supernatural agency what had hitherto been attempted in vain by ordinary soldiers. These fanatics are regarded by their country men as quite proof against the assaults of aU enemies whatsoever. Mystic signs, as weU as representations of the most ferocious animals, are tatooed upon their skin, and charms, consisting of smaU pieces of gold, silver, and precious stones, bearing cabaHstic characters, are inserted in their bodies. They generally expose themselves with the utmost recklessness to the fire of an enemy, dancing a war-dance in the most dangerous part of the works, and shouting defiance to those who are audacious enough to contend with so terrible a foe. The old fort of Syriam was next taken from a detachment of Burmans holding pos- 220 THE "INVULNEBABLES" DEFEATED. session of it, and the stockades on the DaUa river were destroyed. At last the night of the 30th of August was declared by the astrologers in the Burman camp to be a lucky time for attacking the British lines, and accordingly the " Invul nerables " rushed to the attack, armed with swords and muskets, muttering incantations, and yelling in the most frightful manner ; their determination was to retake the Great Dagon Pagoda of Bangoon, and celebrate their annual festival. They were met by a detachment of the 38th Begiment, and at the same time a few rounds of grape were poured into their crowded ranks from the British ramparts. They stood but a moment before the storm, and then flying for their Hves sought refuge in the neighbouring jungle. During the months of September and October the hospitals continued thickly tenanted, and fresh provisions were ex tremely scarce. A few buffaloes were some times brought in, but they were reserved for SCABCITY OF FOOD. 221 the sick. What Httle food, of the description so much needed, could be procured from the ships, sold at an extravagant price. Eowls and ducks for eight rupees each ; geese, sixteen rupees ; sheep, worth two rupees at Calcutta, fetched thirty rupees on the shores of the Irrawaddy ; whilst a cow and a cab?, at an auction on board one of the ships, were knocked down at three hundred rupees. Numerous actions took place in capturing stockades on the DaUa, Palang, and Lyne rivers. At Kykloo the troops met with a repulse, owing to an unwonted panic seizing the Sepoys. It was now determined to make a descent upon Martaban, the only remaining town of any consequence on the coast of which the invaders had not gained possession. Martaban Hes about one hundred miles to the east of Bangoon, on the left bank of the Salween river, and four miles above what is now the flourishing town of Maulmain, the capital of the Tenasserim provinces, and which is situated on the opposite side of the 222 CAPTUEE OF MABTABAN. river. A detachment, consisting of part of the 41st Begiment and three hundred men of the 3rd Madras Native Infantry, sailed from Bangoon on the 12th October for the capture of Martaban. The ship missed the entrance of the river, and in consequence did not reach its destination as soon as was ex pected ; but finaUy the object of the expedi tion was accompHshed in gaUant style. The town was bombarded, and then taken by assault, with the loss of not much more than thirty men. A force was also sent from Bangoon to the town of Pegu, under the command of Lieut.-Colonel MaUet, of the 98th Begiment. It left the former place on the 27th of No vember, and caused the greatest terror to the inhabitants of the country through which it passed. One of the party relates the follow ing : — " Whflst," he says, " we were walking about the vicinity of a village, we discovered, in a remote spot, under the shade of a clump of bamboos, a poor man and his family, who were crouching under the bushes in the EXTREME TERROR OF PEGUAN FAMILY. 223 greatest terror. It is impossible to figure an unfortunate being more under the influence of fear than he was. He threw himself at our feet, and repeatedly lifting his hands to his head begged for life, not doubting but that it was our intention to put an end to his existence ; with much difficulty he was per suaded to the contrary, and informed that he would be remunerated for anything taken from the village ; and, his fears being at last calmed, he went back and shortly returned with his family, consisting of his aged mother, his wife, who was an interesting- looking young woman, and two children. When they had been placed in possession of their former habitation, the man recovered his composure, and the old lady, who had been staring about with the imbeciHty of extreme old age, began to recognise objects familiar to her, and immediately commenced coUecting her household utensils, which had been scattered around. The young woman Could not be so easily, quieted, but exhibited the deepest despair; untying her hair she 224 PEGU TAKEN. shook it wildly over her shoulders, and striking her breast, and knocking her fore head against the ground, she pleaded for mercy, which we never thought of withhold ing. The terror caused by our sudden ap pearance is not to be wondered at, as we had hitherto held no communication with the surrounding vHlages ; and the natives, merely hearing of the white strangers through the medium of exaggerated reports, no doubt considered us to be ferocious and sanguinary to the greatest degree." This detachment left Pegu on the evening of the 30th instant and returned to Bangoon, having encountered no opposition during its absence. CHAPTER XXIV. Advance of Maha Bandoola and his Army — Actions before Rangoon — Fire-rafts — The Maha Bandoola retires with his Army and takes up his position at Kokeen — Storm ing of the Works by the British Troops— The Burman Army driven from their Fortifications — The Maha Ban doola reorganises his Army at Donoobew. Meanwhile more formidable foes than the invading army had yet encountered were wending their way, under the command of the celebrated Maha Bandoola, across the mountains and through the pestiferous jungles of Arracan. This great general had to conduct his troops a distance of upwards of two hundred miles at the most inclement season of the year ; a march which no Euro pean troops, under such circumstances, could have accomplished ; but the Burman soldier, with chopper in hand and a bag of rice con taining food for a fortnight, moves forward Q 226 MAHA BANDOOLA undeterred by difficulties from which troops that far surpass him in actual warfare would shrink. This army, numbered at sixty thou sand fighting men, composed of the flower of the Burman troops, was made up of elements as novel to the British soldier as they were wild and picturesque. There were Cassay horsemen mounted on steeds richly capari soned, and armed with swords and spears. The musketeers numbered thirty-five thou sand men. The " Invulnerables," trusting in charms and spells, and drunk with opium, excited the fanaticism of their feUow- soldiers by a continued display of their own. There were also those who carried implements for stockading and entrenching ; in short, it was as efficient an army as the King of Ava could possibly send into the field. The general rendezvous was at Donoobew, to which place recruits were hastening from aU parts of the kingdom to join the grand army. Every preparation was made by the British general to receive this formidable array. The great pagoda was well garrisoned and strongly AND HIS ARMY. 227 fortified ; numerous pieces of artillery being mounted on its terraces. Three hundred men of the 38th Begiment occupied the interior, and at its base was stationed the 28th Madras Native Infantry. The 13th Light Infantry occupied the heights between the pagoda and the town ; while the remainder of the army took up a position adjacent to the stockade at Bangoon. Kemmendine was garrisoned by the 26th Madras Native Infantry. On the 1st of December a series of actions com menced in front of Bangoon. Kemmendine was attacked, but in their attempts on this post the enemy was completely foiled. Dense columns issued from the forest, forming a line extending from the jungle near the pagoda to within gun - shot distance of Bangoon. Laying aside their arms, they com menced intrenching, throwing up a parapet of earth, behind which they found shelter from the opposing army. "The moving masses," remarks Major Snodgrass, " which had so lately attracted our anxious attention, had sunk into the ground, and to any one Q2 228 ACTIONS BEFORE RANGOON. who had not witnessed the whole scene, the existence of these subterranean legions would not have been credited. The occasional move ment of a chief, with his gut chattah (um brella), from place to place, superintending the progress of their labour, was the, only thing that now attracted notice. By a distant observer, the hills covered with mounds would have been taken for anything rather than the approaches of an attacking army ; but to us, who had watched the whole pro ceeding, it seemed the work of magic or enchantment." Sir A. Campbell, considering it desirable to drive them from these works, directed Major Sale, with the 13th Light Infantry and the 18th Madras Native Infantry, com manded by Captain Boss, to execute the movement, which was effected in gallant style, by forcing the entrenchments and tak ing the advancing force in flank, but not without severe loss. Captain O'Shea was killed and several other officers wounded. These trenches, which are so characteristic BURMAN ENTRENCHMENTS. 229 of the Burman plan of warfare, are thus de scribed by the officer quoted above : " They were found to be a succession of holes, capa ble of containing two men each, and exca vated, so as to afford shelter both from the weather and the fire of the enemy ; even a sheU lighting in the trench could at most but kiU two men. As it is not the Burman system to reHeve their troops in making these approaches, each hole contained a suf ficient supply of rice, water, and even fuel, for its inmates ; and under the excavated bank a bed of straw or brushwood was pre pared, in which one man could sleep while his comrade watched. When one line of trenches is completed, its occupiers, taking advantage of the night, push forward to where the second line is to be opened, their place being immediately taken up by fresh troops from the rear, and so on progressively, the number of trenches occupied varying according to the force of the besiegers, to the plans of the general, or the nature of the ground." Towards the close of the day 230 BURMAN FIRE-BAFTS. the occupation of the trenches was resumed by the Burmans, and again attacking Kem mendine they were a second time repulsed. Indefatigable attempts were made to destroy the British shipping by fire-rafts, and it was only by constant attention, and the use of grappling-irons, that the wooden waUs were saved from destruction. These rafts, which are sometimes one hundred feet in length, were formed of bamboos, so arranged by means of hinges, and other contrivances, that no sooner does one come in contact with a vessel, or any obstacle, than it separates and surrounds it with flaming materials, such as dried wood, petroleum, cotton, and other combustibles. The Burmans always took advantage of the night to strengthen their position. On the 5th instant the left wing of their army, being favourably situated for attack, it was determined, if possible, to deal a blow that would lessen their power. Accord ingly, whUst Chads, of the Boyal Navy, was directed to proceed up the river, to the DEFEAT OF MAHA BANDOOLA. 231 rear of the hostile force, two columns at tacked their entrenchments. One of these, eight hundred or a thousand strong, under Major Sale, stormed the centre of the ene my's lines, while the other, six hundred strong, under Major Walker, took the Bur mans in flank. The column under Major Walker was first engaged, making a dashing assult on the lines. It was received, how ever, with a weU-directed fire, and its brave commander lost his life while leading on his men. The trenches were speedily carried, and their defenders swept away at the bayo net's point. Major Sale's detachment forced the centre of the wing, the whole of which was now broken, and the two columns, having effected a junction, pursued the fugitives, about six thousand in number, and com pletely cleared the works, leaving behind only the dead and wounded. Subsequent attacks were made, in which the Burmans were invariably defeated, and on the 8th instant the vast multitude, and their redoubt able leader, who had advanced with such 232 BURMAN INCENDIARIES. terrible threats, feU back to Kokeen, four miles from the Great Pagoda ; here Bandoola rallied his scattered forces, and in a short space of time threw up extensive fortifica tions. The British army was at this time beset with more dangerous foes than those who met them in the field of battle. Incendiaries, the emissaries of the Burman government, were lurking in Bangoon (built, like all Bur man towns, of the most inflammable mate rials) to burn out the army which by force of arms they were unable to dislodge. On one occasion half the town was destroyed before the flames could be got under, but this was at last accomplished by the united efforts of the troops. On the 15th instant preparations were made for attacking the fresh position taken up by Bandoola and his troops at Kokeen. The works were three miles in circumference, and of the most for midable description. Two strongly-built stockades were connected by six circular en trenchments, and defended by an abattis. STORMING OF KOKEEN. 233 The columns of attack consisted of the 13th Light Infantry and the 18th Madras Infantry, commanded by Brigadier-General Cotton. The 38th, 41st, and 89th British regiments, with some detachments of native infantry, were led on by Sir A. CampbeU in person. In about twenty minutes they had driven the Burmans from the ramparts, and gained entire possession of the fortifications, dispersing a force amounting to twenty-five thousand men, with a loss to themselves of sixteen officers and one hundred and forty men killed and wounded. The loss on the side of the Burmans from the 1st to the 15th instant was estimated at six thousand men, and that of the invading army, during the same period, amounted to forty officers and five hundred men killed and wounded. The Commander-in-Chief fully appreciated the bravery of his men, of whom, on this oc casion, he wrote as foUows : " When it is known that thirteen hundred British infantry stormed and carried by as sault the most formidably entrenched works 234 BANDOOLA REORGANISES HIS FORCES. I ever saw, defended by upwards of twenty thousand men, I trust it is unnecessary for me to say more in praise of soldiers per forming such a prodigy; future ages will scarcely beHeve it." This decisive action terminated the opera tions before Bangoon. Bandoola retired with so much of his army as he could hold together to Donoobew, where he commenced re-organising his forces. The victorious troops returned the same evening to canton ments. CHAPTER XXV. The Inhabitants of Rangoon return to the city — Arrival of fresh Troops — The British Forces march on Donoobew — Repulse of General Cotton — The British Columns effect a junction — Prepare to storm Donoobew — Death of Maha Bandoola and Evacuation of Donoobew by the Burman Army, 2nd of April — The March resumed April 4th — Pretended Negotiation — Evacuation of Prome — Which city the British enter 25th of April — Opinions entertained by the Burmans of the British Soldiers — The Army enters into Winter Quarters. The retreat of the Burman army permit ted the peaceably-disposed inhabitants of Bangoon to return to their native city, which they did in considerable numbers, after ex periencing the greatest hardships and pri vations in the jungles. In a short time a bazaar was opened, from which fruit and vegetables, venison and fish were procurable. The British forces were likewise reinforced by the arrival of fresh troops, comprising the 236 MARCH ON DONOOBEW. first troop of the Bengal Horse Artillery, the Bocket Troop, some squadrons of cavalry, the 47th Begiment, and also several battalions of Madras native infantry. It was now determined to penetrate into the interior of the country as the only means of making a lasting impression on the Burman government, and on the 11th of Eebruary the land-column, commanded by Sir A. CampbeU, began its march from Bangoon. Numerically it was not much more than two thousand strong. There were thirteen hundred European infantry, one thousand Sepoys, a troop of Horse Artfl- lery, and a rocket troop. This force was to march up the left bank of the Irrawaddy, and to join the water-column in the neigh bourhood of Donoobew. This latter was composed of eight hundred European in fantry, a battalion of Sepoys, with a train of Artillery, and commanded by Brigadier- General Cotton. It embarked in a flotilla of sixty boats (carrying artillery), which was under the command of Captain Alexander, PABTIAL REPULSE OF BBITISH. 237 B.N. The boats of the men-of-war lying at Bangoon, together with upwards of one hundred British seamen, accompanied the ex pedition, which was to sail up the Palang river into the Irrawaddy and push on to Donoobew with aU possible expedition. General Cotton arrived there with his detachment on the 4th of March, and immediately summoned Maha Bandoola to surrender, when, on receiving a refusal, he determined on making an attack without waiting for the land-column. Ac cordingly on the 7th he commenced the assault, and succeeded in carrying the pagoda stockade, with a loss to the enemy of four hundred men in killed and wounded. The detachment, however, under Captain Bose, which had been ordered to storm the second work, met with a repulse, Captains Bose and Cannon, with several men, perishing in the attempt. On this General Cotton, finding the works of greater strength than he had anti cipated, withdrew his forces, after having lost five officers and one hundred and thirty men. The fortifications of Donoobew were de- 238 TAKING OF DONOOBEW. fended by a Burman army of fifteen thousand men, with one hundred and fifty pieces of cannon, and three hundred jingals. News of this disaster being conveyed to the land- column, it at once crossed the Irrawaddy on rafts — a work of much difficulty and danger, but which, by indefatigable exertions, was accomplished in five days, and on the 25th of March it arrived in front of Donoobew. The stockade at this place was of great strength, composed of solid beams of teak, and defended by a formidable battery. The ramparts bristled with bayonets and spears, whilst here and there the gilt chattahs of the chiefs glittered in the sun. After several sorties, which were repelled without much loss on either side, the detachment having effected a junction, a general assault was planned for the 2nd of April; and on the morning of that day the thunder of the EngHsh battery announced that the decisive moment had arrived. There was, however, no reply from the Burman fort, and the un expected intelligence was conveyed to the DEATH OF MAHA BANDOOLA. 239 British camp that the general Maha Bandoola was dead— having been kiUed the previous day by the fragment of a shell whfle inspect ing the defences; and dismay, in conse quence, seizing his troops, they had only awaited for the approach of night to evacuate the place with all speed. One man, who was found in the fort with both his feet shot off, gave the foUowing account of the death of his chief, as reported by Major Snodgrass : — "I belong to the household of Maha Bandoola, and my busi ness was to beat the great drums that are hanging in the verandah of the woon-gyee's house. Yesterday morning, between the hours of nine and ten, while the chief's dinner was preparing, he went out to take his usual morning walk round the works, and arrived at his observatory (that tower with a red ball upon it), where, as there was no firing, he sat down upon a couch that was kept there for his use. While he was giving orders the EngHsh began throwing bombs, and one of them, falling close to the woon- 240 CHARACTER OF MAHA BANDOOLA. gyee, burst and killed him on the spot. His body was immediately carried away and burned to ashes. His death was soon known to everybody in the stockade, and the soldiers refused to stay and fight under any other commander. The chiefs lost all influence and command over their men, every indi vidual thinking only of providing for his own personal safety." Maha Bandoola had been the leader of the war faction, and was by his courage and strength of character eminently cal culated to command such troops as com posed the Burman army. As an instance of his discipline, an officer relates the fol lowing: — "When we entered Donoobew, a basket," he says, "containing the head of a man was found tied to one of the guns in the water-battery. This was said to have appertained to one of their artiUerymen, who, having seen aU the men at a gun killed or wounded by one of our discharges, had shown great unwillingness to supply their place, which the Bandoola observing, he instantly THE KING'S EEGBET AT HIS LOSS. 241 Ordered his head to be struck off. This ex ample had the desired effect, and the gun was again manned." With this general perished the main hope of the Burman court. " The account of this event," says the same authority, "was trans mitted to the king in a letter from the Prince of Sarawaddy, who, commencing with a long preamble about the extraordinary effect of the English artillery, the king flew into a violent rage, and said, ' What ! can my bro ther find nothing to write about but praises of the rebel strangers ?' On continuing the perusal he found it contained the intimation of the Bandoola' s death andfaU of Donoobew, and the news so much affected him that he shut himself up in his palace, and would not communicate with any one for many days." In the place which had been so hastily evacuated was found a vast quantity of am munition ; even the prisoners had in the hurry been left behind. The invading force now pushed on to Prome, which was being fortified with aU R 242 PROME EVACUATED, possible expedition by the army which had fled from Donoobew. On the 4th of April the march recommenced. The way was through a desolate country, marked here and there by smoking villages; for the poHcy of the Burmans was to leave behind them a desert without either inhabitants or supplies of any kind. In one part, however, the troops for three miles marched under the leafy screen of a grove of mango trees, the cool shade proving a great boon to the way worn and weary soldiers. On the 19th inst. the Burman chief in command at Prome intimated a desire to negotiate ; but, as he at the same time requested Sir A. CampbeU to stay his advance, it became evident that the only object in view was to gain time for com pleting the defences of the city. The pro posal was therefore negatived, though the English General expressed his readiness to listen to proposals made with a sincere desire for peace. On the 25th instant the British army reached Prome, from which place, as in the instance of Donoobew, the Burmans AND FIRED BY THE BUBMANS. 243 made a hasty retreat, the rapid advance of the columns not aUowing them time to com plete their plan of defence. But had the pretended negotiations been Hstened to, and a halt permitted, many valuable Hves must have been sacrificed in storming the place. The retreating Burmans had, however, fired the town in several places ; but by great ex ertions the flames were got under, and finally extinguished. One hundred pieces of cannon were found mounted on the walls, and in the arsenal a plentiful supply of powder and military stores, while the magazine contained a sufficient quantity of rice to furnish the army with food for a year. After possession had been taken of the city the civil magistrate re turned, and was reinstated in his office by the British authorities. The inhabitants of Prome, likewise, and the neighbouring towns took courage and resumed their peaceable oc cupations. The king now made great exertions to recruit his forces, and pecuniary induce ments were held out to all who would join the r2 244 CHANGE IN BUBMESE OPINION royal army. One hundred and fifty ticals, or nearly 201., were offered to recruits, a thing^ never before known. An event which still further alarmed the Burman government, was the conquest of Arracan by Brigadier - General Morison. The erroneous opinion which had been formed of the British soldiers by the Burmans at the commencement of the war had by this time undergone a great change. " Previous- to the war," says Mr. Judson, " they had a better opinion of them than of the Hindoos, but considered them luxurious and effemi nate, incapable of standing the fatigues of war, and therefore unable to contend with a people hardy like themselves, who carry on war with but little food and no shelter. " They now consider them nearly invinci ble, fierce, and blood-thirsty, and discovering almost supernatural prowess. I have heard them compare them in action to a particular class of demons called Balu, that, according to Burman notions, feed on human flesh. They have compared the rapidity of their OF BRITISH SOLDIERS. 245 movements to a whirlwind. The skill of the Europeans in the use of artillery, and espe cially in that of rockets and shells, astonishes them, and is incomprehensible to them. I should add, that the forbearance and modera tion of the European troops after victory, and their obedience to command and regularity of discipline, is a subjectof admiration with them. In comparison with the Sepoys, they also observe, that they are indifferent to plunder. " The first circumstance of the war which made a deep impression on the Burman court was the sudden and complete destruc tion, to use the language of the Burmans themselves, of the Thongba-Woon-gyee and •of his party of about one thousand men, in a stockade near Bangoon. I heard from a Burman who was present in the action, and who for some poHtical offence, on his return to Ava, became my fellow-prisoner, that this was effected by about three hundred Euro peans. The court, being displeased with the procrastination of Ki- Woon-gyee, had sent Thongba-Woon-gyee to supersede him. This 246 BURMESE OPINION person was determined to fight. He sent, I think, an Armenian as a spy to Bangoon, who brought back news that the EngHsh were preparing to attack his stockade. The mes senger was put to death for bringing accounts tending to discourage the troops ; but the execution was hardly over when the troops presented themselves before the stockade. " My informant and other persons after wards gave a most appaUing account of the attack of the ' Balus,' as they called them. The gate of the stockade was choked up by the runaways, and almost every man in it put to death by the bayonet. Thongba- Woon-gyee was killed in the fight by one of his own people. This mode of attack was totally contrary to all that the Burmans knew of war, and struck them with conster nation. They stated that when one of the assauants was kiUed another immediately took his place, and that they were not to be discouraged from advancing even when wounded; so that it was in vain to contend with such an enemy. Their imagi- OF BRITISH SOLDIERS. 247 nations were so wrought upon, that to these particulars they added many fabulous ones, such as that the Europeans continued to ad vance after their hands had been chopped off in scrambling over the stockades ; that the arms and legs of the wounded were carefully picked up and replaced by the English sur geons, who were represented as skUful as the warriors were bold. "Thenextcircumstancewhichbroughtabout the revolution in question, was the defeat of Bandoola in his lines before Bangoon, and his flight toDonoobew— an eventwhich struck the Burmans dumb, and for a time made them consider their affairs desperate. They thought the British army would then imme diately march upon Ava. The princesses of Pugan and Shwa-dong, with the queen- mother, when the news arrived in Ava, sent for Mrs. Judson, and communicated to her the particulars of Bandoola's defeat. The princess of Pugan said on that occasion, ' The Bandoola's troops have pUed up their arms for the use of the foreigners ; they have 248 DEVASTATING TACTICS all dispersed, and the enemy has nothing to do but to march to Ava clapping their hands.' Mrs. Judson' s advice was asked by the prin cesses. They wished to know whether they ought to run away or stay ; whether there was any chance of safety for them. They entreated her protection and good offices with the English. Upon the failure at Donoobew the Burmans again somewhat recovered their spirits, and Bandoola was supported by all the strength the country could afford. The death of Bandoola again threw the court into consternation." Advantage was taken of the short remain ing season of dry weather to despatch a lightly-equipped corps of observation in the direction- of Tongho, for the purpose of rid ding the neighbouring parts of the military bands employed in desolating the country, and driving away both inhabitants and cattle. The British force advanced to Tagoondine, forty miles from Prome, and then the rains setting in, it made for the Irrawaddy, some times crossing the path taken by the Burman OF THE BURMANS. 249 army in its retreat from Prome. The blighting effects of the Burman system of warfare were here painfuUy visible. " Even Bussia," ob serves Major Snodgrass, " in her memorable resistance to the armies of Napoleon, did not offer to the invading host such a continued scene of desolation. Neither man nor beast escaped the retiring columns ; and heaps of ashes, with groups of hungry, howHng dogs, alone indicated where villages had been." The campaign was now brought to a close, as it was necessary to wait the return of the dry season before resuming operations. Meanwhile the British army, during the period of their inactivity, were possessed of excellent quarters at Prome, and abundantly supplied with provisions by the people, who, under its protection, again inhabited the surrounding districts. CHAPTER XXVI. Burman Head-quarters at Meaday — Shan Female Warriors — Sir A. Campbell makes proposals for Peace to the Burman Monarch — Deputies arrive at the British Camp — An Armistice concluded^ — The British Commander- in-Chief meets the Burman Chief at Neoung-ben-zeik — The Truce extended to the third of November — Letter of the Kee-Woon-gyee to Sir A. Campbell — Hostilities resumed. By the end of September the Burman army, recruited from aU parts, amounted to seventy thousand men, and the head-quarters were estabHshed at Meaday, which place they for tified in the usual manner, digging trenches and buUding stockades. The Shan contin gent amounted to fifteen thousand men, and it was accompanied by three Shan lady warriors of high rank, who promised to de prive the English shot of its destructive power. Sir A. Campbell had, in the early part of the previous August, addressed to the PROPOSALS FOR PEACE. 251 King of Ava a letter, advising him to listen to the proposals for peace stUl held out. His Majesty commanded several translations to be made by the EngHsh prisoners in Ava ; and, when- he had fuUy satisfied himself of the contents, he prepared to open nego tiations. Accordingly, two chieftains with attendants arrived at Prome in a war-boat, bearing a flag of truce, on the evening of the 6th of September. These deputies informed the Commander-in-Chief that his letter had been received by their soverign, and his brother was commissioned to treat. They asked for a truce of forty days, and requested that two British officers might return with them to arrange the terms of an armistice. Both these demands obtained the consent of Sir A. CampbeU, and he selected as his envoys Lieut.-Colonel Tidy, C.B., Deputy- Adjutant-General, and Lieut. Smith, B.N. On the morning of the 8th inst. they left with the Burman deputies, who, during their stay in Prome, had taken the opportunity of offering up their prayers in the celebrated 252 ARMISTICE CONCLUDED. pagoda of that city. Arriving at Meaday on the 12th inst. the EngHsh officers were con veyed by gilt war-boats to the fort, where they were received with music and military parade. A cessation of hostilities was agreed on from the date of the armistice to the 17th of October; and further, that on the 2nd of October the first minister of the King should meet the British authorities half-way between the two armies, each party being attended by a guard. The place chosen for the conference was the village of Neoung-ben-zeik, on the left bank of the Irrawaddy, twenty-five miles above Prome, where a lut'd'hau, or haU of audience, was erected. Sir A. Campbell's escort comprised one hundred and fifty Governor-General's body guard dismounted, three hundred and sixty King's troops, as weU as Sepoys and artillery, the whole being commanded by Lieut.-Col. Godwin. The Commander-in-Chief and his guard arrived at the rendezvous on the 1st CONFERENCE. 253 of October. The negotiations were to com mence at two o'clock the foUowing day. Two Burman chiefs, chosen for the purpose, con ducted Sir A. CampbeU to the hall of audience, situated midway between the two camps, which were a thousand yards from each other. Lieut, -col. Tidy and Lieut. Smith escorted the Burman minister to the con ference. The British, leaving their camp at the appointed hour, advanced towards the lut'd'hau, the Bnrman procession com mencing its march at the same time. " Its first appearance," says an eye-witness, "was splendid. It seemed like a moving mass of gold, which, by reflecting the rays of the sun, prevented us at first from dis tinctly seeing of what it was composed ; but, as it advanced, we gradually could perceive, under a canopy of gUt umbrellas, Col. Tidy and Lieut. Smith walking arm-in-arm with two figures dressed in the most gorgeous and extraordinary manner. They were covered with golden ornaments and embroidery, and behind them were fourteen others habited in 254 CONFERENCE BETWEEN a simflar mode, whUst the rest of the group consisted of followers bearing gilt chattahs, and other paraphernaHa of a Burman noble man. It is impossible to describe the sensa tions with which we viewed this extraor dinary scene. There was something so un expected in the sudden appearance of this briUiant procession in the midst of these wnds, that, when I gazed at the slow mea sured pace with which they advanced, and at the supernatural height given to them by their strange apparel, my mind involuntarfly recurred to those tales of fiction related of the East, and I could almost have fancied myself an inhabitant of fairy-land, and view ing an assemblage of magicians." When arrived within a short distance of the haU, Sir A. CampbeU advanced to meet the Kee- Woon-gyee. After shaking hands in the English fashion, they proceeded arm- in-arm to the lut'd'hau, where, still follow ing English customs, chairs had been placed. The Kee- Woon-gyee, a good-looking man of about forty years of age, was very observant, THE BRITISH AND BURMANS. 255 and unable to conceal the curiosity and sus picion that lurked beneath a fair exterior. His dress was the full war costume, but his attendants were clothed in the ordinary gar ments of the country. " One bore his spit ting-basin, which was immediately placed by his side, when he seated himself; another held the gold betel and paun boxes, which he now and then presented in a crouching posi tion ; and a third carried a gold drinking- cup, richly chased with the twelve signs of the zodiac, and a jar of cold water, wrapped in a plantain-leaf, to keep it cool. The costume of the other chieftains, though very similar in make, was not so highly orna mented as that of the Kee- Woon-gyee." The latter appeared uneasy at the presence of Sir A. CampbeU' s guard, observing that his own foUowers were unarmed ; so that, to remove aU occasion of complaint, the British General dismissed his escort, retaining only the officers of his suite. It was afterwards discovered that this chief, besides his guard of one thousand men, had concealed as many 256 PROLONGATION OF THE TRUCE. as six thousand in the neighbouring jungle. After a lavish exchange of compliments the Burman Commissioners requested that the present meeting might be considered one of a friendly nature, and that all matters of business might be deferred to the morrow. The Kee- Woon-gyee inquired affectionately after the health of the EngHsh King, hoped that friendship might be speedily cemented between the British and Burman nations, and expressed a wish that the officers of the two armies should cultivate each other's acquaintance. Another meeting took place on the following day, at which the terms of peace were discussed. The truce was pro longed to the 3rd of November, that the draft of the treaty might be referred to the King ; but at last it became evident that the Burmans had no real intention of accepting the proposed terms, which included indem nification of expenses and a cession of terri tory. On the 24th of October Sir A. Campbell addressed a letter to the Kee- Woon-gyee, inquiring what was the answer of the Burman LETTER OF THE KEE-WOON-GYEE. 257 court. A reply to this was received on the 29th inst., which removed all further doubt. The letter was written in a somewhat defiant tone, accusing the English of want of faith, and deception. The conclusion of this sin gular document was as foUows : — " If you sincerely want peace, and the re-establish ment of our friendship, according to Burman custom, empty your hands of what you have, and then, if you ask it, we wUl be on friendly terms with you, and forward a petition for the release of the EngHsh prisoners, and send them down to you. However, if, after the termination of the armistice between us, you show any inclination to renew your demands for money in payment of your expenses, or any territory from us, you are to consider our friendship at an end. This is Burman custom." The Kee- Woon-gyee, however, was less to blame than his supe riors, for he had received peremptory orders to attack the EngHsh without delay, and in violation of the armistice ; in reply to which he is said to have exclaimed, " No ; although s 258 HOSTILITIES RESUMED. it may cost me my life, it is better that one individual should suffer than that the Hves of thousands should be lost by such a proce dure;" and he kept his word. As soon as the approach of the Burman army became known, the peasantry sought refuge within the British Hnes, even though obHged to abandon their rice, which was just ready to be gathered in. Prome was in consequence very thickly inhabited As a precaution against fire, the thatch was taken off the houses — a measure often resorted to in the dry season. CHAPTER XXVII. Defeat of the Left Wing of the Burman Army at Sembike — Storming of the Heights of Nepadee — Centre and Right Wing dispersed — The British Army resumes its March ninth of December — Scene at Meaday — The Burmans send in a Flag of Truce — Storming and destruction of Melloon. All hopes of the war being at an end were now extinguished, and it was evident that more blood and treasure would have to be expended before the Burman court could be brought to a sense of its true position. A formidable army of sixty or seventy thousand men advanced to the attack. The right wing, numbering fifteen thousand men, under the command of Sudda-Woon, occu pied the right bank of the Irrawaddy, whUst the centre, comprising thirty thousand men, moved down the left or eastern side, led by the Kee - Woon-gyee in person. The left s2 260 DEFEAT OF BUEMAN LEFT WING wing, made up chiefly of Shans, and headed by Maha Nemiow, a veteran general of great experience, was fifteen thousand strong, and took up a position at Watty-goon, a village twenty miles north-east of Prome. In addi tion to these forces, a reserve of ten thousand men, commanded by Prince Memiaboo, oc cupied Melloon ; and a detachment was assembled at Tongho, with the intention of threatening Bangoon. By the 1st of December the left wing had approached by a slow and cautious move ment, stockading and entrenching as it ad vanced, to Sembflce, within a short distance of Prome ; and on that day the first action of importance took place. The troops were formed into two columns* the one commanded by Sir A. Campbell, and the other by General Cotton. To divert the attention of the centre of the Burman army from the meditated attack on the left wing, Sir James Brisbane safled up the river and cannonaded the heights of Nepadee, where it had taken up a position, strongly fortified.. AT SEMBIKE. 261 General Cotton's division arrived first at Sembike, and immediately commenced the assault. The Shans displayed great bravery, opening a weU-directed fire, which kiUed or wounded four officers and sixty men. The contest, however, did not last long ; the soldiers forced their way into the crowded works, poured in their volleys, and then with the bayonet quickly drove all before them : the discomfited host flying in the direction of Sir A. CampbeU's advancing column, which again dealt destruction on the fugi tives. The aged General Memiow was killed while urging on his men ; and the two Amazons before mentioned met with that death they seemed to court. One of them is described as " a lovely girl, about seventeen years of age." Her untimely end was greatly lamented by the soldiers, who had so unwUl- ingly caused her death ; and they buried her with every mark of respect. Three hundred men, Burmans and Shans, perished in the stockade. The next day, the 2nd of December, an 262 STOBMING OF NEPADEE. advance was made towards the stockaded heights of Nepadee, where, as already stated, the centre of the Burman army had taken up a strong position. A succession of hiUs rise abruptly from the Irrawaddy, which here is eight hundred yards wide, and on the other side an impenetrable forest afforded a sure protection. The only approach was along a narrow road defended by a battery. The flotilla, under Sir James Brisbane, com menced a sharp cannonade, and the bugles sounded the advance. The 87th Begiment was directed to dislodge a strong body of the enemy, occupying works extending into the jungle, a position it was important for the British troops to gain previous to the main attack. The movement was carried out with great spirit, the men rushing through the jungle and driving the Burmans from their ground. The 38th Begiment, under Colonel Erith, supported by the 13th, now advanced under a heavy fire, and entering the entrench ments speedily gained possession of the works, and pursued the flying foe from height to DEFEAT OF BURMAN RIGHT WING. 263 height. The defeat of the Burman centre was quickly completed. Eorty or fifty pieces of artillery were captured, one of which bore the date of the reign of Queen EHzabeth. The centre and left wing of this great army were now dispersed, but the right wing stiU occupied stockades on the opposite side of the river. These troops were dislodged on the 15th of December by Brigadier- General Cotton, with a part of his division. By these engagements the Burman army was completely disorganised, sustaining a loss of between two and three thousand men. Most of the Shans retired to their own country, not caring any longer to fight in so desperate a cause. Immediate obstacles being thus once more removed, the British army was at Hberty to resume its march upon Ava. Its total force amounted to forty-five thousand men and twenty-eight pieces of cannon. Two regi ments of Native Infantry were left behind at Prome, and the whole of Pegu was placed under the control of British officers. 264 MARCH UPON AVA. Sir A. Campbell headed the first division, taking the road to Watty-goon, en route to Meaday, at which place it was supposed the beaten forces of the enemy would rally. Brigadier-General Cotton, commanding the second division, proceeded by the western road, while Brigadier Armstrong, with the Boyal Begiment, embarked in the flotilla, under the command of the Commodore, for the general rendezvous at Meaday. Early on the morning of the 9th of De cember the first division was on the move. Both men and officers were in high spirits. The latter rode Pegu ponies, and the former were plentifully supplied with provisions. The ponies had been chiefly taken from the defeated Shans. Some of them were sold by auction, when the least valuable fetched from two to three hundred rupees, whUst others were knocked down at eight hundred ; and even nine hundred and fifty-six rupees were offered in one instance, a sum equivalent to £95 12*. British money. This value was merely temporary, and three months later MEADAY EVACUATED. 265 the' same animals did not reaHse a fourth part of their original price." The distance from Prome to Ava, the march now contemplated by the British troops, is by land about three hundred miles, and aU were curious to behold the beauties and wonders of the golden city. On the 19th instant, after a trying march, during which the men suffered much from heavy rains, they arrived at Meaday. The place was found to be evacuated, and, says Major Snodgrass in his journal, " A scene of misery and death awaited us. Within and around the stockades, the ground was strewed with dead and dying, lying promiscuously together, the victims of disease and want. Here and there a small white pagoda marked where a man of rank lay buried, whUe nu merous new-made graves plainly denoted that what we saw was merely the small rem nant of mortality which the hurried departure of the enemy had prevented them from bury ing. The beach and neighbouring jungles were fiUed with dogs and vultures, whose 266 SCENE AT MEADAY. growHng and screaming, added to the pesti lential smeU of the place, rendered our situa tion far from pleasant. Here and there a faithful dog might be seen stretched out and moaning'over a new-made grave, or watching by the side of his still-breathing master ; but by far the greater number, deprived of the hand that fed them, went prowling with the vultures among the dead, or lay upon the ground glutted with their foul repast. As if this scene of death had not sufficed, fresh horrors were added to it by the sanguinary leaders of these unhappy men. Several gib bets were found erected about the stockades, each bearing the mouldering remains of three or four crucified victims, thus cruelly put to death — for, perhaps, no greater crime than that of wandering from their post in search of food, or, at the very worst, for having followed the example of their chiefs in flying from the enemy." The next day the army hastened to depart, and pushed on through a depopulated country towards MeUoon. And now a flag of truce ANOTHER ATTEMPT TO NEGOTIATE. 267 was sent by the Burmans to meet the ad vancing force, as a Commissioner named Kolein Menghie had arrived with full powers from the king to conclude a treaty of peace. The army advanced to a town opposite Mel loon named Patanagoh, and on the 1st of January, 1826, the first meeting of the Com missioners took place, in a large accommoda tion boat, moored by the Burmans in the middle of the Irrawaddy. After four meet ings, and long discussions, the terms were at length accepted, fifteen days being allowed for obtaining the king's ratification, the de- Hvery of prisoners, and the payment of the first instalment of money. The Burmans, however, again trifled, and the negotiations terminated as before in hostilities being resumed. On the 19th of January opera tions commenced, at 11 o'clock a.m., against MeUoon. Batteries had been thrown up and heavy ordnance landed. A heavy fire was now opened, and the troops, divided into four columns, embarked in the flotilla. Having effected a landing, the men moved 268 STORMING OF MELLOON. forward to the attack with their wonted bravery. The ladders were placed and the waUs scaled in a very short space of time, the Burmans retreating in dense columns before the little band of soldiers who had so soon possessed themselves of works deemed impregnable by the Burman generals. Eifteen thousand men were driven out of Melloon, and vast military stores fell into the hands of the victors, including seventy- nine pieces of cannon, twenty tons of gun powder, seventeen hundred muskets, large quantities of grain, and documents which sufficiently proved the perfidy of the chiefs. Amongst these was the treaty which it was pretended had been sent to Ava for the king's ratification, so that the whole pro ceeding was proved to have been a deception ; though it is not so easy to see the object they had in view, for the armistice was of greater service to the advancing troops, ex hausted as they were by marching and sick ness, than to themselves. Mrs. Judson remarks very truly of this DUPLICITY OF THE BUBMANS. 269 people, " They have no idea either of moral excellence or the utility of good faith. They would consider it nothing less than folly to keep a treaty when they could gain anything by breaking it. The fidelity hitherto observed by the British Government in fulfilling the stipulations of the late treaty stupified the Burmans. They knew not what to make of it. I heard many use expressions Hke the foUowing : ' The Kulas, although they drink spirits and slay cattle, and are ambitious and rapacious, have a regard for truth and their word which is quite extraordinary, whereas in us Burmans there is no truth.' " As soon as the wounded had been removed to a place of safety, and the military stores secured, the works were set on fire, producing a magnificent Ulumination, and this strong hold was reduced to ashes. CHAPTER XXVHI. The British Forces jpush onwards — Arrival of Doctors Price and Sandford with a message from the Burman King — He accepts the services of the " King of Hell" — Defeat of his Troops at Pagan Mew — The British Army encamps at Yandaboo — Ratification of the Treaty of Peace — Terms of the Treaty — Court Historian's ac count of the War — War of 1852 — Conclusion. The capture of MeUoon having been thus so successfully achieved, the British forces, on the 25th of June, resumed their onward progress. The road now lay through a hiUy country of much poorer soU than the plains of Pegu, and dotted with shrubs or trees of stunted growth. "After marching six miles," says one who accompanied the ex pedition, " we reached the summit of a steep hUl, which commanded a magnificent view of the surrounding country. A large plain lay beneath us covered with wood and orna- ONWARD MARCH OF BBITISH. 271 mented with numerous pagodas, some of great antiquity, bespeaking the grandeur or opulence of what had been, in days of yore, a considerable town ; whilst two or three of later date, and neatly whitewashed, indicated that reHgion had not been neglected by the inhabitants of the Httle hamlets of Taimboop and Meingoon. In the vaUey on our left roUed the Irrawaddy, whose course might be traced for many miles, and on its opposite bank ran two or three ridges of hills, here and there crowned with pagodas, and gra- duaUy merging into the distant Arracan mountains, which were but faintly visible in the horizon." On the 31st of June the advancing columns encamped in the neighbourhood of the petro leum weUs, and hopes of a speedy termina tion of the war were excited by the arrival of Dr. Sandford of the Boyals (who had some time previously been taken prisoner), Dr. Price, an American missionary, and four Hberated prisoners of war. Drs. Sandford and Price were on their parole, and had been 272 MESSAGE FB0M BURMAN KING. deputed by the king to convey a message to the British general. The appearance of these gentlemen was singularly grotesque and Crusoe-like ; their hair and beards were of great length, and their clothes were made of Tartan cloth. His Burman majesty was anxious to learn the most lenient terms on which he might conclude a peace. These were fuUy explained, and on the next day the two deputies set out for Ava in the con fident hope that war was now virtuaUy at an end ; but on their arrival in the city they found that a great change had taken place in the disposition of the Burman court. The king had again listened to evil councillors. An officer at court had volunteered his services, undertaking with thirty thousand men to drive away the audacious strangers, and vindicate the honour of the Burman arms. His offer was eagerly accepted, and the title of " Nai-woon-Barein," or " King of Hell," was bestowed upon him. The pa triotism, pride, and cupidity of the people were appealed to, large bounties were given, FINAL ROUT OF BUBMAN ABMY. 273 and the recruits received the honourable appeUation of "Betrievers of the King's Glory." Nai-woon-Barein assembled his forces at Pagan -Mew, and on the 8th of Eebruary prepared to make good his word. Eight thousand men were stationed within the city walls, whUst the Burman general advanced with the rest of his troops, from sixteen to twenty thousand in number, to meet the British forces, which numbered less than two thousand fighting-men, the 47th and 87th regiments not having reached the spot. An engagement quickly ensued, which speedUy ended in the entire defeat and dis persion of this last hope of the Burman king. The sentence of Nai-woon-Barein, or the King of HeU, was death by command of the King. The road to the capital was now entirely open and unobstructed, and the whole country lay at the mercy of the invader. (Here terminated) after the expenditure of much blood and treasure, this first war of the British with the Burman nation. Whilst the danger was at a distance the king cared 274 TERMINATION OF THE Httle how many of his subject-slaves were sacrificed to his infatuation and flung at the British cannon as food for powder, but the steady advance of the foe towards his capital made him tremble for his personal safety and the security of his throne. Accordingly, Doctors Price and Sandford,. accompanied by Mr. Judson, were despatched in aU haste to the British camp to an nounce the submission of the king, and his acceptance of the terms proposed : but the request was made that six lacs of rupees might be accepted tiU the invading army should have retired to Prome, when the other nineteen would be paid. The Burman mo narch, judging by what his own policy would be, feared that after the money had been ad vanced the British General would stiU take possession of Ava, and refuse the terms he previously agreed upon. Such a proposition,. however, was not listened to ; and the king was further informed that, if the terms now offered were notacceptedandthetreaty ratified within five hours, much greater concessions FIRST BURMESE WAR. 275 would be insisted on ; in the interim the Bri tish forces would stfll continue their advance to the capital. Messrs. Judson and Price hastened to convey this ultimatum to the Burman monarch, and on the 22nd of Eeb- ruary the army encamped at Yandaboo, with in forty-five mUes, or three marches, of Ava. Soon after a war-boat was observed approach ing, and, as it neared the anxious spectators, Messrs. Judson and Price and some other Hberated prisoners were recognised. During the war Mrs. Judson, who had adopted the Burman costume for prudential reasons, re mained at large and administered to the wants of her husband. Dr. Price was able to announce to Sir A. CampbeU the accept ance by the Burman government of all the terms of the treaty. Boats shortly after wards arrived bearing the first instalment, viz. twenty-five lacs of rupees, or £250,000, and two ministers of state vested with fuU powers to conclude and ratify the terms im posed by the British General. The buUion that made up the required amount was of t2 276 THE ROYAL MANDATE. the most misceUaneous description, and had evidently been wrung from the people. There were cups of gold and sUver, gold chains of nobility, and coins of different nations ; to these were added a few bars of gold from the royal treasury. The commissioners presented their credentials to Sir A. CampbeU, whUe the royal mandate was produced and care fully opened. A smaU red velvet bag, bound with tape, and sealed with the royal signet, inclosed a cylindrical case made of ivory, in which was a small bag of gold cloth. When this was opened, a second of the same costly material, wrapped with cotton, appeared, and in this was the royal order written on a smaU piece of vellum paper, with a flowered gold border, and purporting that the Woon- gyee and A-twen-woon were directed to pro ceed to the British camp, and arrange aU subjects of dispute, to the satisfaction of the British commissioners. To this no signature was attached, such not being customary; but the paper was declared by Messrs. Jud son and Price perfectly satisfactory ; and, the TREATY OF YANDABOO. 277 articles of the treaty being then separately read, the Burmans acquiesced in every one without demurring in the least. They also engaged themselves to procure boats suffi cient for the transportation of five thousand men to Bangoon, and agreed to indemnify the prisoners for aU their losses within five days.* On the 24th of Eebruary, 1826, the treaty of Yandaboo was formally signed and sealed, a royal salute announcing to the troops that peace was at last concluded. The terms agreed to may be briefly stated as foUows : 1st. That the Burman monarch cedes to the British the Tenasserim provinces, Arra can, and a part of Martaban. 2nd. That the king of Ava relinquishes all claim to the states of Cachar, Jyntea, and Assam. 3rd. That Munipore shaU be declared in dependent and under British protection. 4th. The reception of a British resident at Ava. The privilege to be mutual. * " Two Years in Ava." 278 ACCOUNT OF THE WAR BY 5th. The negotiation of a commercial treaty. 6th. The payment of one crore of rupees (one mUlion pounds sterHng) towards the expenses of the war. Twenty-five lacs to be handed over to the British authorities before the army should leave the country, and the remainder in three separate instalments ; the last to be paid within two years from the date of the treaty. Burman arrogance and ambition were thus humbled and checked at least for a time. Their largest armies and bravest generals had been sent in vain against the white strangers. The haughty Bandoola, and the charmed " Invulnerables", the fierce " King of Hell," and the " Betrievers of the King's Glory" had aU equaUy faUed, and either faUen bravely in the field or fled before the charge of the British bayonet. The account of this war recorded in the national chronicles by the court historian was as follows : " In the years 1186 and 87 the Kalu-pyu, or white strangers of the west, THE COURT HISTORIAN. 279 fastened a quarrel upon the Lord of the Golden Palace. They landed at Bangoon, took that place and Prome, and were per mitted to advance as far as Yandaboo ; for the king, from motives of piety and regard to life, made no effort whatever to oppose them. The strangers had spent vast sums of money in their enterprise ; and by the time they reached Yandaboo their resources were exhausted, and they were in great dis tress. They petitioned the king, who in his clemency and generosity sent them large sums of money to pay expenses, and ordered them out of the country." Twenty-six years from the date of the treaty of Yandaboo brings us to 1852, when a second struggle with the Burman nation took place. This war would appear to have had its origin in comparatively trifling causes, and those ignorant of Indian affairs, and the people with whom the Anglo-Indian govern ment had to deal, found great room for ani madversion. The Burman governor of Ban goon, besides oppressing British subjects 280 SECOND BURMESE WAR. there, commenced a system of extortion on the commanders of British merchant-ships trading to that port; as was particularly exemplified in the cases of Messrs. Sheppard and Lewis. These outrages being laid before the supreme government at Calcutta, a force was despatched to settle matters, amicably if possible, with the Burman government. In this crisis, in the event of the contumacy of the King of Ava, war was the only means of redress. The Burman monarch chose that alternative, and the struggle, which presents nothing remarkable, will still be fresh in the recollection of the British pubHc. It ended in the seizure, rather than the cession, of Pegu and the province of Martaban; the British authorities rightly judging that any treaty with the Burmans is not worth the paper on which it is written. Although the terrible events of last year wUl, with much reason, strengthen the feel ing of opposition to the extension of our ter ritories in the East, yet it is hardly possible CONCLUDING REMARKS. 281 to avoid the conclusion that the whole of Burmah must finally be subjected to British rule. On reviewing the history of British dominion in the East, it will appear that our Indian empire — from the time that CHve laid deep its foundations on the ruins of the Mogul monarchy, and his successors reared the splendid superstructure, to the present day, when British influence extends from the slopes of the Himmalaya to Cape Comorin, from the Indus to the borders of Siam — seems ever to have held expansion of frontier as the law of its existence. The red Hne, in dicative of British sway, is ever pushing forward, knocking over crazy governments and tottering thrones ; sparing neither golden monarchs nor any other titled imbecflity. It crosses the widest rivers, leaps over the highest mountains, and encircles countries of which our forefathers possessed but the dimmest possible intimation; and, however desirable it may be to consoHdate rather than extend, to improve rather than conquer — yet it is to be feared to stop whUe aught remains 282 CONCLUDING REMARKS. to oppose would be the first step towards retrogression ; and we can only hope, that in process of time, when British civilization, so slow to take root in that eastern son, shall have graduaUy extended itself, and Chris tianity shaU have infused somewhat of its own spirit into the native mind, greatness of extent wUl not be so antagonistic to union and strength, that the march of improvement wiU begin in real earnest, and our vast Indian possessions attain to as great a degree of prosperity as the other parts of the British Empire. APPENDIX. Table of the Fall of Rain at Tavoy during Six Yeaes, by De. Mokton. 1841. 1842 1843. May. . 29-1 May. . 30-6 May. . 7-7 June 66-5 June 46-9 June 61-4 July. . . 60-4 July . . . 70-3 July . . 44-9 August . 26-9 August . . 35-3 August . 39-6 September , 50-2 September 42-1 September . 30-6 October 5-7 October 5-2 October 4-9 November . 1-6 November . 0-3 November . 1-5 240-4 230-7 190-6 1844. 1845. 1846. May . . 18-0 May. . 29-0 May . . . 16-8 June . . 42-5 June 49-9 June . . 48-9 July . . . 36-9 July . . 51-0 July . . . 47-7 August . . 32-0 August . . 46-3 August . . 60-0 September . 25-2 September . 32-2 September . 451 October 14-0 October 18-8 October 8-8 November . 6-6 November 2-4 November . 3-9 175-2 229-6 231-2 284 APPENDIX. List of Imports and Exports in Tavoy With Customs. Free of Articles. Imports. Exports. Imports. It.. A. p. R. A. P. n. a. p. Betelnuts .... 1,283 2 2 ¦ ¦ ¦ ¦ 322 8 0 Cardamums .... * • ¦ • 480 0 0 10 0 0 Cocoa-nuts .... 4,256 3 0 • • • • 181 0 0 Cotton, Raw .... • • ¦ • • • . . 6,050 3 0 Ditto, Manufactures 5,295 8 4 43 8 0 5,324 12 0 Crockeryware 736 6 0 • ¦ 12 6 0 Cutlery and Hardware 1,332 14 0 42 0 0 753 12 0 Dammer .... 21 12 9 ¦ » ¦ • 1,014 0 0 Dannee Leaves . 37 0 0 Earthenware .... 13 4 0 44 4 0 5,209 8 0 Fish of all sorts . . . • • ¦ • 220 0 0 7,363 4 0 Fruits and Preserves ¦ ¦ • • • ¦ ¦ 1 47 0 0 Garlic and Onions . 10 0 0 • • • • 1,569 0 0 Glassware .... 247 6 0 ¦ • • • 51 0 0 Iron and Steel 1,018 14 10 • • • • 290 0 0 Jagry ¦ • ¦ • ¦ * * ¦ 718 0 0 Lackered ware • • • ¦ 9 8 0 4,980 0 0 Oil 526 2 0 • • • * 826 0 0 Rattans ..... » • • • « ¦ ¦ • 2,808 4 0 Rice and Paddy • • ¦ • 149,380 15 4 1,631 12 0 Salt " • • • .. .. B, Silk, Raw .... 450 0 0 108 0 0 Ditto, Manufactures 14 12 0 "7 8 0 2,850 0 0 Timber and Boards . .. 442 8 0 Tea 641 12* 0 61 12 9 Tin • • ¦ ¦ 200 0 0 15 0 0 Tobacco ..... 60 7 0 36 8 0 19,016 12 0 Torches ..... • • • • 12 0 0 3,742 0 0 Twist and Thread . 4,140 8 0 .. 1,622 0 0 Wine and Spirits 103 12 0 ¦ • • a Sundry Articles of Manufactures 2,920 15 2 36 lo' 0 4,571 11 0 Ditto Food 762 0 0 3 2 0 6,081 6 0 Sundries not enumerated in the above ..... .. .. 2 0 0 10,077 8 0 Total Value of Articles 23,835 11 3 150,517 15 4 87,787 14 9 Total Treasure . .. .. .. .. 123,224 0 0 Total Value and Treasure . 23,835 11 3 150,517 15 4 211,011 14 9 [For an account of the Receipts and Disbubsements APPENDIX. during the Year 1856-57, with their Values. 285 Customs. Total Value of Articles with Customs and Free of Customs. Retained in the Re-exported from Province. the Province. Exports. Imports. Exports. R. A. p. R. A. p. R. A. p. R. A. p. R. A. P. 1,973 12 0 1,605 10 2 1,973 12 0 .. 368 1 10 1,517 12 0 10 0 0 1,997 12 0 ¦ . ¦ • 1,987 12 0 1,903 0 0 4,437 3 0 1,903 0 0 2,534 3 0 469 0 0 6,050 3 0 469 0 0 5,581 3 0 1,692 7 0 10,620 4 4 1,735 15 0 8,884 5 4 519 4 0 748 12 0 519 4 0 229 8 0 192 8 0 2,080 10 0 234 8 0 1,852 2 0 .. 1,035 12 9 . . 1,035 12 9 10,107 0 0 37 0 0 10,107 0 0 . . . . 10,070 0 0 2,091 13 0 5,222 12 .0 2,136 1 0 3,086 11 0 9,487 4 0 7,363 4 0 9,707 4 0 > • • ¦ 1,711 0 0 10,119 10 0 47 0 0 10,119 10 0 • • • ¦ 10,072 10 0 107 12 0 1,579 0 0 107 12 0 1,471 4 0 ¦ • • ¦ 298 6 0 . . • . 298 6 0 338 0 0 1,308 14 10 338 0 0 970 14 10 20,334 2 0 718 0 0 20,334 2 0 . • 19,616 2 0 91 0 0 4,980 0 0 100 8 0 4,879 8 0 523 0 0 1,352 2 0 523 0 0 829 2 0 2,023 0 0 2,808 4 0 2,023 0 0 785 0 0 4,001 0 0 1,631 12 0 153,381 15 4 ¦ « • • 151,750 3 4 4,995 6 0 . . ¦ - 4,995 6 0 • • 4,995 6 0 173 0 0 558 0 0 173 0 0 385 0 0 1,258 0 0 2,864 12 0 1,265 8 0 1,599 4 0 3,187 0 0 442 8 0 3,187 0 0 • • • ¦ 2,744 8 0 781 0 0 703 8 9 781 0 0 ¦ > 77 7 3 155 0 0 15 0 0 355 0 0 • • . • 340 0 0 2,686 11 0 19,077 3 0 2,723 3 0 16,354 0 0 1,796 0 0 3,742 0 0 1,808 0 0 1,934 0 0 569 0 0 5,762 8 0 569 0 0 5,193 8 0 70 0 0 103 12 0 70 0 0 33 12 0 4,869 10 0 7,492 10 2 4,906 4 0 2,586 6 2 1,032 5 0 6,843 6 0 1,035 7 0 5,807 15 0 799 14 0 10,077 8 0 801 14 0 9,275 10 0 89,864 2 0 111,623 10 0 240,382 1 4 75,607 7 1 203,733 2 5 800 0 0 123,224 0 0 800 0 0 122,424 0 0 90,664 2 0 234,847 10 0 241,182 1 4 198,031 7 1 203,733 2 5 of the Province of Tavoy, see last page.] General Statement of the Eevenue of the Tenasserim Provinces remaining uncollected Districts. Articles. Paddy land Ditto . Ditto . Garden land Ditto . Ditto . Capitation tax Ditto . Ditto . Salt tax . Ditto . Ditto . Timber revenue Ditto , Ditto . Sayer revenue Ditto . Ditto . Marine receipts Ditto . Ditto . Judicial receipts Ditto . Ditto . Bazaar rent Ditto . Ditto . Postage and postage stamps . Ditto . Ditto . Birds'-nests Farm Ditto . Ditto . Miscellaneous receipts Ditto . Ditto . For 1853-4. R. A. P. 132,567 7 1 48,309 13 6 19,012 3 5 31,738 1 7 17,503 8 4 8,543 9 10 34,195 0 0 10,170 0 0 9,793 0 0 2,194 4 0 1,271 10 0 0 0 0 8,114 10 6 0 0 0 0 0 0 74,344 1 0 7,458 0 0 9,609 0 0 48,918 4 2 142 10 0 262 0 0 48,872 1 1 6,712 7 2 5,621 4 8 0 0 0 1,926 0 0 2,138 1 10 2,248 0 8 11 8 4 91 14 11 0 0 0 7,170 0 0 3,200 0 0 1,285 6 1 418 13 2 367 11 7 Total Co.'s rupees . R. a. p. 199,889 8 0 57,785 3 9 54,158 0 0 3,465 14 0 96,114 10 6 91,501 1 0 49,322 14 2 61,205 12 11 4,064 1 10 2,351 7 11 10,370 0 0 2,071 14 10 632,300 8 11 for the tears 1853-54, 1854-55, and 1855-56, and the balance on the 1st Mat, 1856. R. A. P. 129,856 0 7 51,884 15 9 17,823 1 9 30,654 4 9 15,856 8 6 8,393 2 0 35,332 0 0 10,550 0 0 9,843 0 0 3,596 4 0 1,259 4 0 0 0 0 138,461 13 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 95,495 5 3 7,656 4 0 8,857 7 3 35,588 10 10 548 7 1 340 0 0 50,319 14 8 12,238 1 4 6.663 3 2 0 0 6 1,944 0 0 2,345 12 1 5,162 13 11 120 6 6 234 13 11 0 0 3,600 0 3,200 0 0 00 40,145 5 1,279 15 1,686 1 3 94 199,564 2 1 54,903 15 3 55,72*5 0 0 4,855 8 0 138,461 13 2 112,009 0 6 36,477 1 11 69,161 3 2 4,289 12 1 5,518 2 4 6,800 0 0 43,111 6 4 730,877 0 10 For 1855-66. R. A. P. 127,777 1 3 51,012 15 10 18,964 12 9 30,660 8 6 15,906 1 4 8,350 3 7 36,342 0 0 11,142 0 0 9,688 0 0 2,468 8 0 1,062 H 0 0 0 0 172,290 3 11 0 0 0 0 0 0 114,808 14 4 8,602 0 0 12,094 12 1 11,495 2 8 332 4 8 263 5 6 55,242 9 4 11,828 9 6| 6,454 5 0 0 0 0 2,022 0 0 2,076 0 0 1,933 3 1 226 10 6 72 3' 10 0 0 0 3,600 0 0 2,310 0 0 73,128 6 7 5,998 4 6 1,336 2 5 R. A. P. 197,754 13 10 54,916 13 5 57,172 0 0 3,531 6 0 172,290 3 11 135,505 10 5 12,090 12 10 73,525 7 10* 4,098 0 0 9,232 1 5 5,910 0 0 80,462 13 6 806,490 3 2£ The Eevenues of the Province of Tavoy have steadily increased under the British rule. The entire collections in 1838, the first year of which complete record is found, were Es.' 94,41 6, against an expenditure of Es.. 93,348. For the year ending 30th of April, 1857, the Eeceipts and Disbursements were as follows : — RECEIPTS. R. A. p. Wet Lands ...... 52,214 4 3 Up Lands 2,962 1 0 Gardens .... 12,561 5 3 Capitation Tax 11,506 0 0 Government Bazaar 2,446 0 0 Edible Bird-nest Monopoly 3,600 0 0 Tax on Manufacture of Salt 512 12 0 Monopoly of Sale of Spirituous Liquors 4,134 0 0 Opium .... 7,409 0 0 Judicial Receipts . 11,919 7 5 Sea Customs 5,851 0 8 Post Office 218 8 0 Total 115,334 6 7 DISBURSEMENTS. 1. Revenue Establishment „ Contingencies „ Sea Customs Establishment „ Post Office . ,, Cost of Opium 2. Judicial Establishment „ Pension „ Contingencies 3. General Educational Grant in aid „ Medical Establishment . „ Contingencies 4. Marine Establishment Pensions . . Contingencies 5. Military Establishment „ Contingencies Total R. A. P. 10,260 7 10$ 8,441 6 2 29,047 1 2$ 367 8 0 21,255 10 0 18,701 14 786 14 182 11 2,007 8 0* 0 00 300 0 0 2,100 0 0 1,039 2 5 585 0 0 333 0 0 1,941 13 1 10,663 4 0 327 15 0 50,670 3 2J 3,439 2 5 2,859 13 1 10,991 3 0 Advances on account of Public Buildings in course of erection, or for repair not included in the above, were made during the year. Westminster : Printed by J. B. Nichols and Sons, 25, Parliament Street. 1 ":.,]