YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 1941 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. THE ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. HENRY T. TUCKERMAN. Italia, oh, Italia ! thou who hast The fatal gift of beauty, which became A funeral dower of present woes and past. On thy sweet brow is sorrow ploughed by shame. Yct, Italy ! through every other land Thy wrongs should ring, and shall, from side to side ; Jloiher of arts ! as once of arms ; thy hand Was then our guardian, and is still our guide. Second Etiitron— JEnlaraelJ. BOSTON: LIGHT & STEARNS, 1 CORNHILL. 1837. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1836, by Light & Stearks, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Massa chusetts. CONTENTS. Advertiseraent, 7 Inti-oduction, 9 SKETCHES. Rome, 13 Florence, 57 Naples, 79 Venice, 93 Italian Journeying, 105 The Last Sojourn, 119 TALES. The Disclaimer, 129 The Sad Bird of the Adriatic, 141 The Rose-Colored Packet, 167 The Florentine, 179 MISCELLANY. Byronia, 211 Natural Language, 219 My Home Abroad, 229 1* vi CONTENTS. The Amateur, 239 A Glimpse at Basil Hall 243 The Opera, 347 Greenough, 355 Modern Italy, 2(33 ADVERTISEMENT. The following pages comprise leaves from a Journal in Italy, in 1833-4, with Tales and Essays, illustrative of the local and social fea tures of that interesting country. The unex pected favor with which the specimens that have appeared in literary journals were received, has induced a revision and presentation of them, in the form of a volume. Should this little work serve to revive the impressions of one who has sojourned in the regions of which it speaks, or pleasingly inform one who is precluded from be holding them — especially, should it tend, in the least degree, to awaken in any mind an interest and faith in humanity as there existent, or its perusal enliven an irksome, or beguile a painful hour, the author will feel that the time devoted to its production has not been spent in vain. INTRODUCTION. There are countries of the globe which possess a permanent and peculiar interest in human estima tion — an interest proportioned in each individual to his intelligence, culture and philanthropy. They are those where the most momentous histor ical events occurred, and civilization first dawned, and of which the past associations and present influences are, consequently, in a high degree exciting. The history of these lands affords one of our most attractive sources of philosophical truth, as the reminiscences they induce excite poetical sentiment ; and hence we very naturally regard a visit to them as an event singularly interesting, not to say morally important. And yet personal impressions, on such occa sions, are confessedly dependent upon circum stances which are, for the most part, uncontrolla ble. There are, however, certain positive meth- X INTRODUCTION. ods, the adoption of which will not, indeed, bring about a coraplete agreement in the notions and sentiments of travellers, but will tend to a much more useful purpose — that of inducing a satisfac tory result upon their own minds. Among these are a sense of the true nature of the comprehen sive object they are about to contemplate, a pa tient determination to bestow a degree of time and study in a measure corresponding with the subject, a preparedness for disappointment, and an unyielding spirit of candor. Such a state of mind will especially influence happily the expe rience of the transatlantic sojourner in Italy, since it may not be denied that many things exist there, to qualify the enjoyment of the enthusiastic expectant, who has turned the eye of his imagi nation thither through the long and magnifying space which divides our continent from the old world. The invalid discovers that even these genial regions are not exempt from wintry influences; the ardent observer must grieve to find the most interesting ruins contiguous to, and even invaded by the scenes of ordinary life, and the more con ventional characteristics of the country fast dis appearing before the ever increasing encroach- INTRODUCTION. xi ments of the stranger multitude ; while the bene volent are constantly pained by the sight of dis tress which they cannot alleviate. Yet perhaps these very drawbacks tend to direct attention more completely to the many existing sources of satisfaction, and they certainly are not without a moral benefit. Never does the paramount impor tance of the innate habit, and the comparative worthlessness of the outward scene, become so self-evident, as when we thus feel the superiority of anticipation to enjoyment. And we know not, until standing by the spots renowned as the scenes of mighty exploits, denuded of the ex haustless drapery of fancy, that it is the acts themselves, with all their beautiful philosophy, which alone have hallowed these portions of the earth. But frequent and favorable observation will develope the legitimate influences of Italy, and render us less sensible to untoward or disagreea ble circumstances. Antiquity will become, in our view, more sacred ; art will awaken a deeper interest ; society will discover new charms ; and, when we start upon our homeward pilgrimage, we shall perceive, with a sensation of wonder, the strength of the chain which binds us to the xii INTRODUCTION. land, and realize the subtle power of the agencies which have so silently woven it. The impressions of an individual mind, noted during a considerable interval of time, will there fore possess more of this deliberate and eventual character. In imparting them, it seems unwise, at least, to run into the common error of portray ing minutely the details of statues, paintings and edifices — descriptions, which often have the efiect of exciting without satisfying curiosity; while graphic delineations of manners and customs have been too frequently and faithfully drawn to be attempted in the present instance. The aim has rather been to lead from particular descrip tions to the general contemplation of such sub jects as are prominently indicative of the scenes and intellectual influences of Italy. SKETCHES. ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. ROME. " Yet, this is Rome, That sat upon her seven hills, and, from her throne Of beauty, ruled the world ! Yet these are Romans. Why, in that elder day, to be a Roman Was greater than a king ! " In the light of a clear atmosphere we stood upon the summit of the Capitol, and thoughtfully gazed forth upon the city with its mountain-wall circling broadly in the distance. From so com manding a position, we were enabled to expand our idea of the site of ancient Rome, into a sensi ble conception of the relative localities and origi nal aspect of her scattered and dimly defined remains. Directly beneath us stood a massive form, whose sculptured and inscribed surface is uni formly tinged with the melancholy hue imparted by the earth which so recently encrusted it, and deepened by the lapse of agesv- And yet, beneath 15 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. that arch have earth's most splendid pageants passed ; eyes bedewed with the rich tears of grateful exultation, have dwelt upon its now defaced splendor; its broad foundations, resting heavily in their sunken bed, have trembled be neath the proud tread of the triumphing, and its concave rung with the inspiring shout of a Roman greeting. It was the triumphal arch of Septimius Severus. Immediately beside it,, in mournful compan ionship, rise three mutilated columns, all that exists of the noble tribute of gratitude raised by Augustus to the god of thunder, after returning unscathed from the ru.sh of his awful shaft. A slower but not less sure agency has not passed negligently by the monument, and the naked triumvirate, clustered, as if in tho "fellowship of grief," but feebly represent the living sentiment which gave them birth. The same number of these erect and solitary relics, lifting their bur- denless capitals in air, furnish the commencement of an outline which observation may continue and imagination embody, of the temple of Jupiter Sta ter. Cold chroniclers of thrilling times are they : senseless spectators of what would kindle even the unenthusiastic, which else we might almost envy. It seems as if something of pride yet lingered about these decayed remnants of a once glorious com pany. They bore the vaulted roof, which echoed the most eloquent outpourings of moral indigna tion; they stood around, silent and stern, when ROME. IJ about them were the not less inflexible forras of the Roman soldiery, and the sudden gathering of her alarmed citizens ; and within, the deliberate and imposing presence of the accuser, and the pale countenance and hurried glances of the accused; — for it Avas»here that Cicero condemned Cataline. The temples of Concord and of Peace, the one boastirig eight remaining columns, and the other three fragmentary arches, next attracted attention and suggested similar reminiscences. But soon we were obliged to quit a scene so absorbing in its suggestive influences, to wander among the dense ranges of modern buildings, and descry, here and there, a few pillars or other remains of what once stood forth contributing their now isolated syraraetry to the forraation of a beautiful and perfect whole. The arches of Titus, Constantine and Janus respectively occu pied and interested us, particularly the forraer, frora the sacred vessels and symbols of the Jewish teraple, exhibited in basso relievo, upon its inte rior surface. The niches of the last are dispos sessed of the statues which once adorned them ; the bronze fastenings which connected the stones are gone, and broad gaps mark the violence with which they were extricated. In the vicinity, we attentively perused the little square arch erected by the jewellers of the Forum to Septimius and his wife, and passing on, observed the pillars and site of the temples of Vesta and Fortune trans formed into churches. 2* 18 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. When we found ourselves near the wonderful old aqueducts contiguous to the walls, we were long amused with the peculiarities and impressed with the antiquated features of these strange and extensive remains. From some elevated posi tions, we gained a view of the neighboring moun tains, lifting their undulating forms beneath the vapory raasses of the dim atmosphere, and reflect ing in faint yet rich tints, the few rays of sun shine which struggled through the leaden clouds. We had seen no general view more congenial with the ruins or more exciting to the associa tions of Rome. On another occasion we left the city by the Appian Way, and were raindful of the circum stance of St. Paul's having entered by the identi cal road. After a considerable walk, we reached the tomb of the Scipios, situated by the road side, and the entrance not distinguishable from other similar gate- ways, except by the inscription. Entering this, we soon came to the vault, secured merely with loose wooden doors, and having no distinctive beauty. With a guide and tapers we explored the dark and chilly avenues of this tomb, pausing here and there, to con the many inscriptions which exist upon the walls. Two of the sarcophagi are in the Vatican, but one or two yet remain. We soon hastened from this damp and melancholy sepulchre, whose earthy floor was worn by the feet of many curious pilgrims like ourselves, and pondering upon the contrast ROME. 19 between the men who once reposed there, their probable anticipations of their country and the present, we extended our walk, and penetrated far into the labyrinthine catacombs beneath the church of St. Sebastian. At length we arrivecJ at the noble square, with its sweeping colonnade and old obelisk, which are about St. Peter's. Having entered that edifice, and immediately passing through a side door, we commenced ascending an inclined plane which winds round, is bricked, and continues for a long distance until it brings us out upon the roof. This wide space, with its several cupolas, has been aptly compared to a small village. We soon entered the first and second interior gallery of the dome, and thence looked down from an immense height upon the variegated marble floor, or iraraediately aTound upon the coarse mosaic figures. Still ascending, we reached the lan tern, and obtained a most comprehensive view, embracing the city, the campagna, the distant snow-covered mountains, with a glimpse of the Mediterranean ; and having stood in the copper ball which surmounts the whole building, we descended.* * The necessity of attempting a description of this truly indeseribable building is most happily superseded by the unrivalled paintings of Pa- nini, recently purchased by the Boston Atheaseum. Let any one in tently gaze upon the delineation of the interior of St. Peter's, emd imagine the space vphich lies unreveaJed in perspective, and he will obtain a more definite idea than any words can convey. 20 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. At one visit to St. Peter's, the several scenes presented most effectually aided me in realizing the vastness of the building. Two of the chapels were filled with children receiving Sabbath in struction, whose singing resounded pleasingly through fhe expanse. In one corner, some lads, seemingly designed for the priesthood, were loudly engaged in a dialogue, the purport of which was an exposition of the church cere monies ; these were eagerly listened to by a surrounding crowd. Around the circular and illuminated railing, which is about the descent to the tomb of the great apostle, kneeled many female figures, and another knot were clustered beneath his bronze image, and fervently kissing the worn foot; while, scattered upon the far- spreading pavement, and bending at the numer ous shrines, were many devotees apparently absorbed in prayer. The confession-boxes, too, were unusually occupied, and the whole area thickly studded with the figures of those whom curiosity or devotion had brought thither. And yet these numerous and variously occupied hu man beings seemed, in no degree, to lessen the apparent space enclosed by those immense walls and that exalted dome, but rather to increase the impressiveness of the whole. I ever gratefully remarked the peculiar mildness and genial warmth of the atmosphere. It is even pretended by some of the inhabitants, that this phenomenon may be ascribed to the heat, which the dense ROME. 21 walls acquire during summer — a heat so great and so well retained as lo continue partially latent, and be evolved during Ihe few weeks when comparative coolness prevails. Many cir cumstances, however, contribute to the produc tion of so pleasing an effect, particularly the admirable exposure of the building to the full influence of the sun, which beams through one or another of its many windows, during nearly the whole day, while the arrangement of the entrances almost precludes the admission of the external air. But it was my special delight to visit St. Peter's, not critically to examine, but to yield myself freely to its sublimity and beauty. Some times I would rest in front of the monument to the last of fhe Stuarts, to sympathize in the mournful expression of its basso relievo angels of death, extinguishing, as if in sadness, the torch of life; or pause in admiration of the lions of Canova surmounting the tomb of Pope Clement XIII. As the setting sun shone gorgeously through the glory, over the main altar, and lin gered upon the gilded cornices of the v/all, it was mysteriously exciting to gaze on one of the splendid mosaic copies of the most eminent origi nals ; for instance, that of Thomas satisfying his doubts. The perfect serenity of our Saviour's countenance, the determined inspection of the incredulous apostle, and, above all, the sad, yet raild and affectionate expression of John, riveted 22 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. my gaze and touched my sensibilities. I could almost believe that I saw a tremulous play of the muscles, or hving softness ofthe features, as they were thus revealed in the twilight. It was surpassingly interesting to roam through the quiet and rich precincts of this magnificent edifice, with an elevating sense of its' excellence as a place of religious enjoyment. There is a freedom, a nobleness, a grandeur about St. Peter's, allied to intellect and sentiment in their higher manifestations. Within no structure, perhaps, does the human form dwindle to greater apparent insignificance ; but in few spots does man yield more spontaneously or legitimately to a sense of his capacity for excellence. The idea that the build ing, which is filling and delighting his spirit, was planned by the intellect and reared by the labor of his species, and the thought of that Being to whose praises it is devoted — all this suggests itself with the view and its enjoyment. Indeed, famiharity with the splendid temples of worship for which Italy is remarkable, rather augments than diminishes the spontaneous admi ration which a first inspection of them excites ; or rather, the primary emotions of pleasure melt into a calm sentiment of satisfaction, far more favorable to a discriminating view and just im pression. The still but most efiicient teachings of those three happy influences, painting, sculp ture and architecture, seem here combined for the most felicitous ends. I could not but often think of ROME. 23 it as one of those consoling and redeeming things, which modify all the evil in the world, that these were places dedicated to Catholicism, but open to all and at all times ; — places for reflection, devo tion and thought, where one can wander con templatively — the painted windows imparting a mellow light in which the pictured and sculp tured forms seemed living things, and the notes of the chanters falling in reverberated echoes upon the ear — and worship after his own heart, or muse holily till the fire burns. It was on a day marked by that deep azure, that seemingly penetrable density of the- sky, so often celebrated by poets as the most enchanting natural feature of southem Italy, that we were early on our way to the Esquiline hill. Upon its summit stands, in comparative solitude, the church of St. Pietro in Vinculi, built to contain the chains of the great apostle whose name it bears. The effect ever derivable from simplicity, is signally exemplified upon entering this chaste building; for its interior architecture opens at once upon the vision, and, in its simple grandeur, imparts a far raore delightful impression, than is often obtained from more extensive and gorgeous constructions. The form of the Basilica is here admirably preserved, the arched roof being sup ported by two rows of beautiful columns, and the whole space unbroken by any intermediate arches. These columns, as well as the pavement of the sacristy, were originally obtained from the 24 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. baths of Titus ; the former are remarkably im pregnated with sulphate of lime, so as to emit a sulphurous odor when slightly rubbed. Behind the altar is a richly wrought marble chair, proba bly a consular seat, obtained from the ^ame ruins. The idea that Cicero might once have occupied it, occurred to us, and increased the interest with which we viewed so pleasing and authentic a Roman relic. Most of the pictures and frescos are illustrative of St. Peter's impris onment and angelic enfranchisement; and within two brazen and embossed doors are preserved the sacred fetters, which are exposed to view only once a year. But the grand attraction which had drawn us to this church was a renowned work of art — the statue of Moses by Michael Angelo. This colossal figm-e at once evinces the workmanship of a peculiar genius, the design differing wholly from what is familiar in statuary. There is a muscular power, a grandeur of outline, which sufficiently indicate the author. Indignation and awful energy are distinctly discernible in the heavy frown and stern expression of God's chosen messenger to a guilty and erring people. The Capuchin convent — an example of another class of churches — imparts a very tolerable idea of the dreariness and sternness of a genuine monastic retreat. The lay brother who conducted us looked wonderfully thriving, and was withal surpris ingly afl'able for an old denizen of the damp and ROME. 25 gloomy apartments which he so complacently dis played. The church, though by no means mag nificent, contains two frescos of great interest : — one representing the archangel Michael triumph ing over Satan, whose dark brawny form seems completely subdued beneath the light foot of his beautiful conqueror ; the other, a rough represen tation of St. Peter walking on the waves — one of the most ancient examples of this species of painting. Indeed this convent is many centuries old, and the very hue and primitive material of the Capuchin garb comport admirably with the antique appearance of the whole building and its contents. But the greatest peculiarity is the cemetery beneath. A number of arches extend some distance, against the Avails of which are piled an immense number of the bones of the deceased Capuchins. In spaces left about mid way, are stretched skeletons, clad in the habit of the order,- and others stand in various- parts of the awful repository, while the ground, composed of " holy earth," transported at great expense from Jerusalem, is marked as the last resting- place of the later dead. The very lamps which hang from the walls, are composed of bones; and the same material, distributed most fantastically, furnishes meet accompanying ornaments. Per haps this kind of burial, if such it may be called, is one of the rarest in practice by moderns. The effect by torch-light,, when an interment takes place, must be impressive in the extreme ; though 3 26 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. with the broad light of day shining through the windows, the scene seemed more hideous than morally striking; nor can one easily feel that the intended honor is conferred upon the unbroken skeletons, by permitting them to stand holding a card, upon which is inscribed the name and age of the deceased, like guardians of the mournful piles around them, in which are merged the remains of their less distinguished brethren. We crossed the Tiber in a broad barge ; and during the few moments which intervened ere our walk recommenced, we were naturally led to contrast the turbid waters and the dim earth around us, with the same scene, in its transcen dent aspect, as existing in the familiar picture of our fancy. The one was the plain appearance of neglected and perhaps degenerate nature; the other, impressions derived from nature's glowing commentator, the poet. Passing by a retired path through the fields, we soon came in view of a circular fortress, (the Castle of St. Angelo,) now chiefly used as a prison, but originally the tomb of Hadrian. And certainly, when its solid proportions were decked with the numerous statuary ornaments which once adorned thera, it raust have formed a glorious final resting-place for a Roman. There is a striking and melan choly inconsistency observable in this, as in many instances, in the modern appropriation of ancient monuments. So much more honorable is it to the general or at least to the better sentiment of ROME. 27 mankind, to leave unmarred the few remnants of a nation's greatness, when not one of her children exists. There is surely a kind of sacri lege in disturbing works consecrated to the dead, for purposes of selfish pride or narrow utility. The beauty, the interest, the blessed inspiration which, so often hallow these ruins, are thus invaded, while no commensurate advantage is obtained. Have not as many smiles of ridicule or sneers of reproach, as pious feelings, been awakened, by the view of the apostle's figures surmounting the triumphal pillars of Aurelius and Trajan 1 And who can behold, without regret, the mausoleum of the mighty dead trans formed into a tomb for the most wretched of the living ? We ascended a long flight of steps, entered a square and corridor, and were soon in the Mu seum of the Vatican. It were vain to endeavor to describe what an impression of the richness of art is inspired by the first general inspection of this vast collection of her redeemed trophies ; and far more, to paint the vivid and elevating concep tion of her power which dawns, brightens, and finally glows in the bosom, as face after face of thrilling interest, figure after figure of embodied nature, and gem after gem of exquisite material or workmanship attracts the admiring eye ; all unanimated by one spiritual principle, and yet so legitimately the offspring of the highest, and so perfectly significant, as to awaken wondejr, 28 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. enkindle delight, and finally win love. We devoted a season to the inspection and admira tion of the time-worn frescos, which exist upon the walls of the Camere of Raphael. Constan tino's victory is, indeed, a splendid battle-piece. But of all the figures, none struckme as grander than the group representing the rairaculous defeat of the ravager of the temple, struck down by a cavalier, and two angels, at the prayer of the priest. Most of the countenances here depicted are separate and noble studies. All the frescos were partially designed and executed by Ra phael., They present a worthy but melancholy monument to his genius, impaired as they are by age, and marred by his untimely death.. Yet artists of the present day are continually study ing these dim, though most admirable reraains, and find in their contemplation the happiest aids and incitements. Notwithstanding this speaking testimony fo departed excellence, as well as that which beamed in the admiring looks ofthe gazers around, there was something of sadness in the very air of rooms that bore the name, and shone with the embodied talent of the beloved and early dead, which forced itself irresistibly upon the mind, and tinged with mournfulness the gratified thoughts. But it is when we stand for the first time in the presence of that being, if aught destitute of sen sation deserve the name — it is when the eye first rests, and the heart first fastens with instinctive ROME. 29 eagerness upon the Apollo Belvidere, that we feel the triumph of human art. And there springs up a rich sentiment of satisfaction, not only that the poetical in native feeling, the pure in taste, and the exalted in thought, are conscious of unwonted gratification, but because we rejoice in the spiritual nobility of our coraraon nature ; we glory in the thought that the senseless marble radiates the beautiful and deep expressiveness of intellectual life at the call of human genius, and we are soothed by the testimony thus afforded to the immortality of what we most love in our selves and kind; for we feel that such followers of nature are allied to its Author, and may humbly, but legitimately, aspire to yet higher teachings than are evolved frora the physical universe. I entered, on a fine clear day, the large enclosed tract called the Gardens of Sallust, being the site of that beautiful historian's villa and grounds. There are a few ill-defined ruins here situated, supposed to be those of a temple dedicated to Venus Erycina, and of the mansion, or its ad juncts. The general aspect presented during my wanderings through this extensive enclosure, was more in accordance with the idea previously formed of the country than any before obtained. The fertility of the grounds, green with varied shrubbery, and occasionally beautified with field- flowers, and thickly planted with vegetables, among which groups of laborers, were actively engaged, afibrded remarkable evidence of the 3* 30 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. actual mildness of the climate ; while occasional glimpses of an old aqueduct, or wall, gave to the scene the surpassing charm of antiquity. Con stant blasts of cold wind, in which the dry reeds rattled sullenly, and the snow-capped Apennines in the distance were, however, sufficiently indica tive of the season. The free air and coraraand ing situation of this domain are well adapted to foster that concise and clear energy, which so highly distinguishes Sallust. If this was the favorite retreat to which he retired to compose his history, it is not surprising that he found in the situation and his employment greater satis faction than could be gleaned from the enslaving luxury of the city, which lies so attractively at the foot of his paternal mount. It was a pleasant thought, that this very spot is that which be guiled his early ambition from the hazardous efforts of a political arena, to the quiet and digni fied employment of an elegant historian. And in contemplating the result of this author's wise choice, and comparing his with the lives of many of his equally gifted countrymen, a new proof is afforded of the surpassing excellence of well- directed literary labor. More peaceful and ele vated passes the existence, and more certain and purely succeeds the renown of the useful and excellent writer, than that of the most successful aspirant for immediate popularity. There is too a beautiful completeness in the works and fame of Sallust, such as seldom marks the memory or ROME. 3] the labors of modern writers. Confining himself to one sphere, and intent upon comparatively few subjects, he shone pre-eminently in the one, and threw over the other a light and vigor of delinea tion, which render his works not only universally interesting, as just and vivid chronicles, but as most attractive illustrations of the capacities of his native language. I proceeded at a similar season forth from the city, by the spacious and beautiful entrance of the Piazza del Popolo, towards the Ponte MoUe. When we reached this celebrated bridge, the beauty of the adjacent country and distant scenery, as well as the associations of the spot, detained me in long and delightful contempla tion. On the one side rises Monte Mario, crowned with a verdant line of lofty cypresses, and on the other, far away, stand the hoary Apennine hills, while beneath runs the swift and turbid Tiber. The picturesque, arched, and heavy bridge on which I stood, still retaining portions of its an cient material, and the pervading Sabbath still ness, gave vividness and scope to the grand scene of action, which memory and imagination con jured up and arrayed upon its massive surface, and along the broken banks of the river. But, happily, in viewing the scene of Constantine's victory and miraculous vision, we ^are not left to unaided fancy in an attempt to renew the view preserved in history. We have but to recall the almost living delineation of Raphael, to arrive at 32 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. a strong conception of what could otherwise be but vaguely and variously fancied. It is on such occasions that we learn to recognize one, among our many obligations, to genius and art. Gazing, after the lapse of centuries, upon the renowned battle-ground where tyranny received a signal overthrow, from a christian warrior eminent for victory, and finding nought but the altered aspect of nature and a few decayed relics of art, we can yet rehearse the history and the song, and ponder the picture, till they realize the time-biiried events of antiquity. It was one of those days when a pensive still ness pervades nature — the sky overclouded, yet threatening no rain, the sun peering dimly forth, and a quiet, almost sad in its lifelessness, brood ing over the sullen fields and declining foliage — a day, in short, the melancholy language of which brings something of pleasure to the man of anxious temperament, and to whose meditative influences even the practised worldlmg not un willingly yields himself — a day, on which the student instinctively turns from his book to pon der; the active denizen of the busy or gay world is unwontedly and unwittingly thoughtful ; and many a day-dreamer or philosophical sportsman, like old Walton, wanders longer through the fields, and indulges in deeper imaginings and more protracted reveries. Such a season was peculiarly adapted to the purpose for which I had assigned it — a visit to the tomb of Cecilia Metella. ROME. 33 The very thought of it brings to mind Childe Harold's characteristic description : "There is a stern round tower of other days. Firm as a fortress with its fence of stone. Such as an army's baffled strength delays. Standing with half its battlements alone, Aud witli two thousand years of ivy grown, The garland of eternity, where wave The green leaves over all by time o'erLhrown ; — What was this tower of strength ? Within its cave What treasures lie so locked, so hid ? — A woman's grave. This celebrated ruin, one of the most satisfac tory, as regards its authenticity and preservation, among all the Roman antiquities, is situated about a league from the centre of the city, upon the Via Appia. Its circular form and remarkably dense walls, composed on the exterior of marble, now partially decomposed, proclaim its pristine magnificence. The obscurity which veils the history and character of her whose ashes it once contained, renders it, to one at all given to vague imaginings, more eloquent than if it were the concomitant of a most interesting and elaborate chronicle. The inscription possesses the same sublime simplicity, which is one of the noblest indications of ancient Roraan greatness, discov erable in her monumental remains. As if, in announcing the tomb to be that of Cecilia, wife of Crassus, and daughter of MeteUus, enough was expressed to convey every adequate impres sion to the beholder, of whatever age or country ! 34 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. The near kinswoman of two Roman citizens ; — this one fact was deemed a distinct indication to posterity of the actual nobility of the entombed, while one glance at the splendid sepulchre would convey ample testimony to her worth and Joss. But even we of later times, who can smile at, while we admire such perfect confidenrse in the simple greatness of citizenship and individual character, and who can gaze with the coldness of curiosity upon such a relic, even we can scarcely fancy any record capable of exciting such awakening sentiment. It comports, in its brevity, with the great lesson it teaches — the rapid flight and levelling influence of time ; and designating a double ruin, it affords a degree of knowledge which, if extended, would but carry out and define where vagueness is desirable. For free scope is thus given to a species of con jecture, which it is mournfully pleasing to in dulge. Standing by the massive remains of such a mausoleum, of which we can only affirm that it was reared to the memory of a Roman wife and daughter — what trait of energetic beauty, of affectionate devotion, of moral courage, which enters into the beau-ideal of the female character, may we not confidently ascribe to this? What a life of secluded, yet elevated virtue, what a death of solemn dignity might not have been hers ! How large a part might she have taken in refin ing, ay, and nerving the spirit of husband and child and brother—in producing that obsolete and ROME. 35 wonderful being, a Roman citizen ! And if aught of such fancies is correct, how like her earthly destiny to that of innumerable of her sex, who live in the exercise of thoughts and sentiments which, if developed through more conspicuous channels, would be productive of deathless re nown ; but whose self-sacrificing ministrations, though imraeasurably influential, are as unseen as those of a guardian angel, while the memory of their authors is only embalraed in heaven, or darkly transraitted, like that of Cecilia Metella, by the simple record of their names and kindred, upon the monument which conscientious affection has reared. Of all impressions from antiquity, derived from the ruins of Rome, none is raore vivid and last ing than that inspired by the Coliseum, when viewed under circumstances best calculated for effect. Such are the quiet and mystery, the shadowy aspect and mild illumination of moon light. Availing myself of a season like this, it was with something of awe that I approached to partake of a pleasure in its very nature melan choly, yet in the highest degree attractive to the imagination, and calculated to awaken many of the deepest sentiments, especially those by which the fellow-feeling of our race is nurtured and sustained. And as- the scene, in all its actual beauty, environed by associations more impres sive than its past magnificence, and reposing in a light more tender than gleamed from the eager 36 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. eyes which once shone out from its now dim arches, broke upon my sight, I seemed to have come forth to hold communion — not with the material form, but with the very spirit of anti quity. There, its massive walls circling broadly, pre-eminent in lingering pride, stands the Coli seum. As the monarch of ruins, its dark outline seems defined with most commanding prominence, while surrounding objects are lost or blended in shade. Its many arched recesses are rendered still more obscure by the veil of shadow, or par tially revealed in the congenial light. Through some of them the silent stars may be seen at their far-off vigils in the heavens, and again a fragment, which the hand of time has spared, abruptly bars the view. Over some, the long grass, that sad frieze which antiquity ever at taches to the architecture of man, hangs motion less, and, as a lattice, divides the falling moon beams, or waves gently in the night breeze. But it is when standing beneath one of those arches, and vainly scanning -the length of the half-illu mined corridor, or looking down upon the grass- grown area, marked by a single path, that a sense of the events and times of which this ruin is a monument, and its suggestions the epitaph, gradually gains upon the attention, like the home thoughts which a strain of familiar music has aroused. The gorgeous spectacle of Rome's con gregated wisdom and beauty thronging the vast galleries, now lost or crumbling through age, the ROME. 37 glitter of wealth, the pomp of power, the eager ness of curiosity, and the enthusiasm of varied passions, which once rendered this a scene of unequalled pageantry — all come, at the call of memory, to contrast themselves with the same scene now, clad in the solemnity of solitude and decay. But yet another retrospection, inducing deeper emotions, occupies the mind, and throws over the scene a higher interest. What an amount of hu man suffering have these dark walls witnessed! Could they but speak, what a tale of horror would be unfolded I How often has man, in all his savage or his cultivated dignity, been aban doned in this wide area to the beasts of the forest — more solitary when surrounded by his unpitying kind, than when alone with the lordly brute, in his desert domain ! How much of hu man blood has this damp earth drunk, and how often upon its clamray surface has the huraan form been stretched in agony or death ! Nor was this the theatre of effort and wo only to the physical nature. Who can estimate the pangs of yearning affection which have wrung the depart ing spirit, the feeling of utter desolation with Avhich the barbarian has laid down his unsup ported head, and died in the midst of his enemies? Who can distinctly imagine the concentration of every sentiment in that of the love of existence, which has nerved the arm of the combatant, and the stern despair with which he has at length 4 38 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. relinquished his dearly sold life? Far less might one hope to realize the deep energy with which the martyr to his faith has here given proof of its power. There is something holy in a spot which has witnessed the voluntary sacrifice of existence to the cause of Christianity. Of beautiful and sublime, as well as terrible spectacles, has this been the scene. Where has youth seemed so pure in its loveliness, or manhood so noble in its might, or age so venerable in its majesty, as here? If, in this ruined amphitheatre, humanity has been most debased, by the despoiling hand of cruelty, where has she exhibited more of the sub limest of her energies — the spirit of self-sacrifice? Often as this air has wafted the sighs and groans of suffering and remorse, has it not likewise borne upward the prayer of faith, and the thanksgiving of joyful confidence ? Though glances of ferocity and revenge have been turned, in impotent ma lignity, through this broad opening to the smiling sky above, how often have eyes beaming with forgiving love, or fixed in religious fervor, looked into its blue depths, from the awful death of the Coliseum ! And yet, while the abandonment and decay of Flavian's amphitheatre plainly indicate the de parture of those ideas and customs in accordance with which it was reared, the question forcibly suggests itself to the observer of its remains, has the principle, which sustained so long an insti tution like this, utterly and forever departed? ROME. 39 Have we nothing in our experience, reserabling what seems to have originated in a deeper senti ment than caprice, and from its long continuance and popularity, has an apparent foundation in our nature? The reply to such self-interroga tions is affirmative. What student of humanity, or observer of man, does not recognize the same principle operating eternally ? Those who hold the system of Christianity, in its purity, hold the whole philosophy of the principle. Individual man has arrayed against him the varied force of circumstances without and passion within. Of the insidiousness, the power of these opponents, who is ignorant? And there are, too, specta tors — ^too often as heartless, curious, and cold lookers on, as those which thronged the galleries of the Coliseum. Next to the Coliseum, as an architectural re main, is the Pantheon. Its magnificent dome, antiquated and immense pillars, and old pave ment, combine to realize the high anticipations with which it is visited. The proximity of this grand building to the scenes of ordinary life, exposed to the sounds and influences ever present in populous cities, and especially marred by the emblems of the popular faith, and surrounded by the fllth of a market place, are circumstances which strike one most disagreeably, and break in most inharmoniously upon his cherished associa tions. 40 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. The ruins .caUed the " Baths of CaracaUa" are massive and broken waUs, indicative of former magnificence only from their number. Rank weeds have quite overgrown the space which they enclose. All the decorations and luxurious arrangements are gone; the former are either destroyed, converted into ornaments for modern churches, or preserved in the public museuras. As one walks amid these deserted remains, a sense of sohtude and mournfulness powerfully aflTects him, even beneath the cheerful light of noon-day. The extensive site of these baths realizes, in a measure, our ideas of the state of elegant luxury to which the Romans had attained. The Baptistry of St. Constantine, a small octago nal building, contains several pillars of red por phyry, and two brazen gates, taken from these baths. The sumrait of the Palatine Hill is, however, occupied with ruins still more remarkable, even considered as architectural vestiges. So com plete is the deformity and decay which time and violence have worked upon that luxurious abode of royalty, the palace of the Caesars, that no observation, however critical, can discover any evidence of former splendor, except what is dis coverable in the extent and solidity of the broken and straggling walls. These stand in heavy groups, or isolated and towering fragments, while about them the gay forms of vegetable life flour- ROME. 41 ish, with a fertility that seems to mock the bar renness of the ruins which their green and clus tering beauty but imperfectly conceals. As I wandered there, the mildness of the air was wonderful for the season, and the bright sun light, verdant earth, and beautiful surrounding prospect, took from the view the sadness usually observable, in scenes the prominent features of which are antiquated. Yet, though the sterner shades of the picture were thus mellowed, its solenm lesson was as forcibly imparted. " Tully was not so eloquent as thou, Thou nameless column with the buried base ! What are the laurels of the Caesar's brow ! Crovra me witli ivy from his dwelling place." Ill the Statue gallery of the Museum of the Capitol, comparatively little is found to excite admiration in the mind of one familiar with the treasures of the Vatican. The Dying Gladiator differed essentially from the notion I had pre viously entertained respecting it. The chief, the particular merit of this celebrated statue seems to consist in its admirable expression of physical suflfering. The position, in view of the wound, is so perfectly true to nature, (as described and illustrated by Dr. Bell,*) that one cannot but study it with growing satisfaction. But he must. ' Vide Bell's Philosophy of Expression. 4* 42 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. I think, be very imaginatively disposed, to dis cover that look of mental anguish, and dying sentiment, which might be naturaUy anticipated. In the Borgehese Palace I paid frequent and admiring attention to the most interesting work it contains — Raphael's Deposition from the Cross. The picture hall of the Palazzo Colonna must, when illuminated, present one of the finest scenes of the kind in Rome. After inspecting the views by Claude, and several works by the old masters, I became much interested in examining a beauti ful cabinet, the frontal exterior of which is very ingeniously carved in ivory. The middle panel represents, in exquisite basso relievo, the master piece painting of M. Angelo, and affords a much better idea of the design of that work than a distant view of the defaced original can give. At the old dreary palace of the Barbarini, I paused long before two faraous original paint ings — Raphael's Fornarina, and Guido's Portrait of Beatrice Cenci. The one from the perfection displayed in its execution, the other from the melancholy history of its subject,* are highly attractive. ¦' I am cut off from the only world I know, From life, and light, and love, in youth's sweet prime. You do well telling me to trust in God. I hope I do trust in him. In whom else Can any trust 1 And yet my heirt is cold." Beatrice in Prison — Shelley's Tragedy of the Cenci. ROME. 43 The churches of St. John Lateran* and St. Maria Maggiore are next to St. Peter's in extent and richness. Among the numerous temples of worship delightful to frequent, is the Chiesa St. Maria degli Angeli, a noble building in the form of the Greek Cross, and rendered imposing by a grand dome and extensive pavement. It contains a famous meridian, and two fine frescos — St. Pe ter performing a cure, and the Baptism of our Saviour. The celebrated Sybils of Raphael are in the Church of St. Maria della Pace, and the Christ of M. Angelo in that of St. Maria sopra Minerva. There is, too, a small church near the Forum, said to be the identical prison where St. Peter and St. Paul were confined. When visit ing this building, we descended a considerable flight of steps, and came to a gloomy dungeon, the traditionary cell of the great apostles. The very stone, fenced strongly with iron, to which they were chained, is designated. While endeav oring to feel that this very vault had indeed been the scene of suffering and prayer to the revered martyrs, a severe task was imposed upon our credulity. A small excavation in the wall above the stair-case, guarded like the relic below, we were informed was occasioned by. a blow which the guard gave St. Peter as he descended, caus- * In the vicinity are the Scala Sacra, or Holy Stairs, said to be the stairs of Pilate's Judgment Seat, which our Saviour ascended. They are continually mounted by innumerable devotees upon their knees. 44 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. ing his head to strike and miraculously shatter the stone. In a neighboring church, called Ara Coeli, we admired an exquisite marble altar, said to have been erected by Augustus. A bright Sabbath morning found me seated in the little chapel of a monastery, the dark and riveted walls of which denoted its antiquity. A few individuals were seated upon the wicker chairs around ; and between the lattice work of the partition, severaL nuns might be seen, quietly engaged in their devotions. I had come thither to witness the ceremony by which two females entered upon their noviciate. When the chapels on either side of the lattice were well nigh filled, and a priest, robed for the occasion, had placed himself near the grate, an elderly preacher ap proached, and seating himself, addressed impas- sionately the kneeling females. His discourse, couched in the symphonic accents of the Italian, and delivered with singular energy, was not without impressiveness. He painted in glowing colors the temptations to which humanity is ex posed upon the arena of the world, the moral safety and satisfaction of religious seclusion, the beauty and acceptableness in the sight of Heaven of the consecration of the young and the warm hearted — even such as they who knelt silently by — to the cause of Christ and the Church. The priest and his assistants then chanted from the ritual for some time, the silvery voices of the nuns blending melodiously with the choruses. ROME. 45 At length fhe clear yet hesitating voices of the noviciates might be heard as they read their vows. Their interesting appearance, and the associations of the moment, were not inoperative upon those of us to whom the scene was new; there was a kind of sad and thrilling poetry in their very tones. The first Sunday in Advent is one of those days when services are attended by the Pope in the Sistine Chapel. I willingly embraced the opportunity to obtain a view of his Holiness. The comparatively small room, one of the halls of the Vatican, was surrounded at an early hour by a large concourse of strangers. We passed through the whole band of Swiss guards, drawn up in the colonnade. These, although somewhat picturesque in their appearance, always reminded me of the soldiers of the opera house or the stage, as the ruff they wear, and soraething in their tout ensemble, seems more scenic than actual — more designed for effect than action. Upon en tering, I looked intently upon a work of art of which I had heard rauch — said to be, in fact, the most meritorious and wonderful of paintings — the Last Judgment, by Michael Angelo, covering the entire back wall of the chapel. With all my gazing, however, I could but descry numerous and apparently most muscular figures, in various positions, the centre one in the attitude of com mand. Subsequent inquiry and reading, in some degree, explain the disappointment caused by a 46 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. first view of this renowned production. Its chief merit consists in the bold yet natural development of the forms, and the mathematical precision of the execution. It is, in a word, a grand study for the artist, and would more immediately affect the merely curious, had not time defaced, and did not a bad position obscure its merits. The living pageant, however, soon attracted attention. Many cardinals, bishops and other dignitaries, with their purple robes and ermine decorations, occupied the innermost division. But the Pope entering, riveted the attention of most of the au dience. Nothing remarkable in his physiognomy strikes the beholder, except an unusually promi nent nose. There was much apparent serious ness and devotion evinced by this personage, and indeed by the whole assembly. The chanting was solemn, though not remarkable; and to one devotionally disposed, the whole service was by no means void of grateful influence. At the studio of Thorwaldsen, there is much to interest and gratify the visitor, whether the in trinsic and individual merit, or the remarkable number of his works be considered. The sunny face of the shepherd boy, as he sits contempla tively with his dog beside him, is truly inimita ble ; as are the Three Graces, and Mercury in the act of taking advantage of the sleep into which his music has lulled Argus. Of all im- classical specimens of sculpture, the figure of Lord Byron in a surtout and heavy shoes, with ROME. 47 a pencil in hand, with which he presses his lip meditatively, here seen, is the most singular. The birth-place of this distinguished artist is not certainly known. His earliest recollection of him self is that of being on board a ship, in the ca pacity of cabin-boy. His origin is, however, un doubtedly northern, and most probably Icelandic. After surmounting many difficulties, and attain ing some rank in his art, he visited Iceland. To this island, it is said, he purposes bequeathing the greater part of his collections and property. Sorae of his greatest works have been executed for the northern nations; and colossal statues of our Saviour and the twelve apostles are now in progress for a church in Russia. There is a work at present, only dead-colored, upon the easel of Overbeck, which, if corapleted in the sarae noble manner that marks its concep tion, will indeed prove glorious. It is called the Christian Parnassus, representing the fine arts in the persons of the great artists; and the groups ascending, at length terminate in the figures of the Saviour and Madonna. The likenesses, even in this early sketch, are beautiful, and easily recognized ; and the gracefulness and vigor of delineation with which ninety-two forms are pic tured on a comparatively small canvass, indicates the genius of the artist. I also remarked a very expressive and alraost finished painting by the same hand — our Saviour at prayer in the Garden. 48 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. The impassioned, yet calm spirit of earnest devo tion, radiated from the wrapt countenance of the kneeling form, is finely contrasted with the angry and expectant glances of the distant crowd, press ing on through the still obscurity, to sei^e upon their victim. When the literary pilgrim or susceptible obser ver has become famihar with the aspect .and suggestion of Rome's antiquities and treasures of art, he has yet another spot of hallowed earth to tread, another locality to visit, as a shrine whose associations will wreathe his spirit as with in cense, till it is penetrated with sentiments of sympathy, sadness and love. There may be here excited less of the sublime in association, induced by the distance of the retrospect with which the stricken and lone memorials of extinct national greatness are pondered ; but there is room for more home-felt emotion, and occasion for less grand and critical, but more touching comment, than the antiquity of art and the ruins of gran deur can present. This spot is indeed neglected by the antiquarian, and has been often passed by, with the greatest indifference, by the merely fashionable visitor ; but who of us that loves the poetry of his native tongue, and rare specimens of human character, will not fondly and feelingly linger in the sequestered English burying-ground, at the graves of Shelley and Keats? He will there read the same lesson whicli more imposing ROME. 49 monuments had imparted, with deeper emphasis perhaps, but not in tones of more melting pene tration. The romantic imagination, remarkable mental independence, and extreme sensitiveness of the former of these poets, combined, as they were, with high native and acquired powers, and associated with a fate so deeply melancholy, give a truly poetical coloring to our recollections of him. Short and unappreciated was the life of poor Keats, and his death a martyrdom. The little left for friendship to record of him was the beautiful brilliancy of young genius, its primitive hopefulness, the susceptibility which gave effect to hireling opposition, , and the gloomy flickering and extinction of that vitality which alone con nected an unsophisticated genius to an unsympa- thizing and uncongenial world. And what is this but a common story in the chronicles of hu manity ? Through the perspective and magnify ing light Of time, it may possess more prominently mournful features, but, wherever contemplated, it is essentially the same — the conquest of grcss power, grosser taste, and indiscriminate will, over the casket of a gem, the conventional forra of an existence, the temporary habitation of a soul. Thus has it been of old, and this is alike the history of an ancient martyr and the victim of a modern sacrifice. The intelligent sentiment which impelled and sustained,, may essentially differ, but the course — the consummation — is the 5 .50 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. same. The chief distinction between the sufier ing and final self-devotion of the unyielding in faith, whose life was laid down in an ancient amphitheatre, and that of Keats, is that the one perished, according to the customs of the age, by the hand of violence, and in the. other, the dor mant fires of disease were renewed, and the lin gering progress of decay speeded fatally onward. " Here lies one whose name was writ in water: " — an epitaph dictated, like this, at the very gates of death, yet bespeaks the poet ; and, like every poetical sentiment, is replete with latent truth. That name was indeed written in water, but the pencillings of a progressive and discerning spirit could have deepened the. inscription upon an adamantine surface of crystal. But what these have failed to do, pity and congeniality are ever doing; and in innumerable hearts, the memory of Keats is cherished, with a love surpassing even what the efforts of his maturer genius could have inspired.* Among the odd traits observable in the Roman population, is their aversion to two luxuries es pecially esteemed in more northern countries, and though somewhat matters of taste, yet not alto- * Hazlitt has justly observed that Keats's " ostensible crime was that he had been praised in the Examiner newspaper : a greater and more unpardonable offence probably was, that he was a true poet, and had all the errors and beauties of a youthful genius to answer for. Mr. Gifford was as insensible to the one as he was inexorable to the other." ROME. 51 gether unallied to a higher sentiment ; these are flowers and fire. The latter, during winter, is as truly physically requisite as in colder cliraates ; but less surprise should be excited by this antipa thy, among a people whose idea of comfort is so widely different from our own, and to whom this cheerful influence brings with it none of the do mestic associations which endear it to the deni zens of bleaker localities, and the possessors of a better founded enthusiasm. The former distaste is more remarkable, when we consider the pro verbial predilections of the Italians for the beau tiful ; and yet it is to a surprising extent true, that most are indifferent, and many decidedly averse to flowers ; whereas, in Florence, we were ever beset with flower-girls ; and the Neapolitan peasants are seldom seen without a nosegay. I have heard this peculiarity of the Romans as cribed to their very delicate sense of smell, which renders even a mild perfume. quite overpowering; but it is difficult to admit a reason which is so inconsistent with their habitual toleration of far less genial odors, particularly the unwholesome exhalations from the buried aqueducts and in fected campagna. Although the period of my sojourn was con sidered, in sorae respects, an uncommon season, yet the excellence of the climate of Rome, accord ing to my best information and experience, has been sadly exaggerated. During winter, a south- 52 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. erly wind, with the usual accompaniment of rain or humidity, or a dry piercing northerly blast, generally prevails. The bright suramer- like days, when the deep azure of the sky, and the balmy softness of the breezes^ recall our cher ished imaginings of Rorae, are too unfrequent, at least to please the invalid. Yet one of these beau tiful interludes in the capricious shiftings of the weather is, if freely enjoyed, unspeakably reno vating. A promenade upon the Pincian Hill or in the Villa Borgehese, or an excursion to Tivoli, at such a time, inclines one to forgive and forget all the past waywardness of the elements. In summer, that awful vapory infection — the mala ria, and the extreme heat, are alike deleterious. It is very confidently asserted, by individuals who judge from experience, that a vast change has occurred in the climate of Rome within the last thirty years ; and that even within a less period, a marked difference, as regards constancy and mildness, is observable. The supremacy of the pope and his cardinals, denominated the sacred college, being all but ab solute, the risk incurred by such a sway renders the government extremely tenacious and jealous, so that of all culprits of whom the law takes cog nizance, none are at once more frequently or less deservedly its victims than political offenders. But the chief evil immediately resulting from this condition of things, consists in the concessions ROME. 53 which the rulers make to the ruled, in order to maintain their authority. Many of these involve the total subversion of the very principles which government is mainly instituted to uphold. Capi tal crime, for example, is of all oflences the least liable to retribution by the operation of law, in the Roman states. And such is the sanguinary temperaraent of most of the people, that any se vere civil check upon it would inflame opposition, and hence render their political yoke raore gall ing. Of the two evils, therefore, as might be anticipated, government choose that which is morally greatest, and politically least. Conse quently, the number of personal violences and murders is almost incredible. An incarceration of a few months, for this highest of crimes, is often the sole punishment ; and even this is dis pensed with, if the offender can efiect a pecuniary compromise with the relations of the deceased. Within a short period, the fourth murder, under the most atrocious circumstances, alone sufficed to bring a noted culprit to the gaUows. The present pope, it is believed, in executing plans for the advancement of his own views, is gradually undermining one of the strong holds of his power. The re-erection of St. Paul's church, in the environs of Rome, in a costly style, and the creation of five new cardinals — both measures in every respect unnecessary, are among the ex travagant plans with which he is charged. The 54 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. means of carrying on these is obtained from ex tensive loans, for the payment of which his most valuable revenues are pledged, and year after year, these are sacrificed to his inability to meet the annual demand. I have heard it confidently estimated that, adopting the past as a criterion, in the space of thirteen years, the resources of the government will be absorbed ; and if the ability of the governed to support taxation, at that juncture, is not better than at present, there is no conceivable means of furnishing an adequate supj)ly to sustain the papal credit.* But it is highly probable that another and more rapid agency than the slow depreciation of the trea sury will, ere then, have permanently altered the political condition, not only of Rome, but of all Italy. The degeneracy of modern Rome is a subject ever forced upon the thoughtful resident, when ever his mind is free to revert to the local and moral circumstances by which he is surrounded. And to one who is in anywise farailiar with her past history, or susceptible to her present influ ences, it becomes an almost absorbing theme. Vainly, at times, do the glories of the Vatican allure him; their delightful enchantments fade * Tosti, the present treasurer general, is said to have administered the financial department so successfully as to have met tbe annual exi gencies, made up the deficit of the past year, and retained a surplus. ROME. 55 before a more impressive reality. He cannot rejoice unreservedly in the splendors of human art, when humanity is a wreck around him ; he cannot indulge in stirring retrospection over the sculptured figure of an old Roraan, while it serves but to render raore prorainent the moral defor mity of his descendant. And if a gleam of native enthusiasm excite him, caught from scenes which the supremacy of character has hallowed, or a sentiment of rich gratification steals over him from the midst of material beauty, the idea which he most loves to connect with these — the idea of his race — brings with it an overpowering sadness. Throughout all that art or antiquity here unfolds, he feels as if wandering in a beautiful garden, once blest with a presence which shall know it no more. He feels, in his inmost soul, that it was this non-existent object of his love, which lent a hitherto unknown interest to the marble and canvass, to mount and river ; and while ever and anon their silent beauty affords a sad plea sure, they oftener serve but to remind him of the grave which has closed over the beloved of his memory. Yet he gradually derives consolation, which sometimes brightens into happiness, in attaching himself to such meraentos ; and when they recall most strongly what has been, the thought of what yet may be brings home an exquisite and almost forgotten delight. While raelancholy even 56 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. imparts its sad hue to the moral observer of Rome's relics and ruins, something of hope, of instinctive anticipation, bears out the mental gratification which ever flows from them. FLORENCE. ' Girt by her theatre of hills, she reaps Her corn and wine and oil, and Plenty leaps To laughing life with her redundant horn ; Along the banks, where smiling .4rno sweeps. Was modern Luxury of Commerce born. And buried Learning rose, redeemed to a new mom." The prevalence of broad sweeping vales, thickly studded with olive trees, and relieved by a back ground of snow-covered raountains, uniquely em bosoming a picturesque city, through- the midst of which a river courses, spanned by several finely arched bridges, clearly assures us that we are in the delightful capital of the garden of Italy, as Tuscany is appropriately called. A merely conventional view of Florence inspired me with a strong predilection for it as a residence. It possesses that medium character as regards extent, population and activity, which is essen tial to the comfort of those who would find in their place of abode a moderate degree of live liness, combined with something of quietude and beauty. Its compactness, and its broadly paved 58 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. Streets, and the general magnitude and antique cast of its buildings, are features which almost immediately prepossess the visitor. One cannot wander long in Florence, without coming out upon the Piazza Grand Duca. This square seems to possess something of the local interest of the Edinburgh grass-market, as de scribed by Sir Walter Scott — not that peculiar events transpire there, but the place is a kind of central resort, the post office and custom house being there situated, and that curious specimen of Tuscan architecture called the Palazzo Vec- chio. There, too, stand the colossal and time- hallowed figures sculptured by Buonarotti : seen at night, how mystic their snowy distinctness ! The illuminated figures upon the old tower desig nate, at that season, the hour, and a solitary sen tinel standing in the shade of the buildings, with the equestrian statue of Cosmo in the centre, completes the romanticity of the scene. In the daytime, a far more bustling appearance is pre sented — groups awaiting the sorting of the mails, venders crying at their scattered booths, and, most unique of all, a quack mounted upon his caleche, eulogizing his nostrums raost eloquently. The view from the Boboli gardens attached to the ducal palace, is thus graphically described by a celebrated English poet : "You see below Florence, a smokeless city, with its domes and spires occupying the vale, and beyond, to the right, the Apennines, whose Florence. 59 base extends even to the walls, and whose sum mits are intersected by ashen-colored clouds. The green valleys of these mountains, which gently unfold themselves upon the plain, and the intervening hills, covered with vineyards and olive plantations, are occupied by the villas, which are, as it were, another city — a Babylon of pal aces and gardens. In the midst of the picture rolls the Arno, through woods bounded by the aerial snowy summits of the Apennines. On the right, a magnificent buttress of lofty craggy hiUs, overgrown with wilderness, juts out into many shapes over a lonely valley, and approaches the walls of the city. "Cascini and other villages occupy the pinna cles and abutments of these hills, over which is seen, at intervals, the ethereal mountain line, hoary with snow and intersected by clouds. The valley below is covered with cypress groves, whose obeliskine forms of intense green pierce the gray shadow of the wintry hills that over hang them. The cypresses, too, of the garden, form a magnificent fore-ground of accumulated verdure ; pyramids of dark green shining cones, rising out of a mass, between which are cut, like caverns, recesses conducting into walks." At no great distance we find the Museum of Natural History, the anatomical preparations of which are probably unsurpassed for their com plete and scientific exhibition of the several parts and processes of the human system. Here the 60 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. body seems literally laid open, its nerves, glands and muscles represented in their natural posi tions, relations, hues and functions; and aU with a regularity of arrangement, and displaying a per fection in the execution truly admirable. Means of studying nature, in so important a department, more comprehensive and withal commodious, can scarcely be imagined. Admiration of the skill of the artist, and an agitating sense of the won derful delicacy and mysterious science involved in our physical being alternately occupy the be holder. The Mausoleum and Chapel Tomb of the Me dici are remarkable objects of attention. The latter is hallowed by the iraraortal work of M. Angelo which it contains, and the former is yet in the progress of construction, and although very rich in marbles and precious stones, possesses too sombre a hue, with its present incumbrances, to show these to much advantage. Within the palace is a magnificent range of apartments appropriated to the fine arts, through which we are privileged, by the liberal cour tesy so striking to the stranger in Tuscany, un reservedly to wander. They are adorned above with the most splendid frescos illustrative of the Iliad, beneath by briUiantly polished floors, while around, in gorgeous profusion, are various and admired paintings. The chief distinction of this collection seems to consist in the remarkable pau city of ordinary works amid such a multitude. FLORENCE. 61 There are {q\v which indicate vast genius, or in spire overpowering sentiments, but many which, fi'om their intrinsic beauty or excellence of exe cution, form delightful sources of contemplative pleasure. But the grand object which lends a most at tractive charm to the city, is its far-famed gallery of art, containing, besides innumerable paintings, many original works of ancient sculpture. Day after day may the resident here frequent this ele gant and instructive resort, until it becomes to him a familiar retreat, where much of his daily happiness is experienced, and raany of his best thoughts suggested. Here, were this my home, would many of my best friends be ; for who can fail to have his favorite paintings, as well as his much loved walks, or most admired authors? And who that values the objects and agencies around him in proportion to their improving in fluences, can withstand the sentiment of sympa thy inspired by the long study and nurtured love of art's happiest, products. How many dehght- ful hours may one pass in that little sanctum of art — the Tribune, gazing upon its presiding god dess, and basking in the radiated expression of its pictured, glories! Often, while seated in the circular chair opposite the celebrated statue of the Knife-grinder, I could not but reflect upon the position as superior to any which mere wealth or station could boast. For if the end chiefly attainable from both these is enjoyment, assur- 62 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. edly the rich httle apartment I temporarily occu pied evolves from its beautiful treasures sufficient pleasurable inspiration to delight every worthy capacity of happiness, such as is derivable from outward objects. Specification and especial com ment in regard to the paintings in the Gallery and Palace of Florence becomes less and less practicable, as the sojourner repeats and length ens his visits. The works of Raphael, Titian, Morillo and Salvator, distinctive as they are, be come to the studious observer more and more instinct with an inspiration over which he loves to ponder, but whicli seldom " wreaks itself upOn expression." Standing amid the renowned sculptured group of Niobe and her children, I could indeed discover maternal sadness in the fixed countenance of the former, yet at the first view, it seemed wanting in that excited, agonized grief which the occasion would naturally induce. Perhaps, however, the expression more justly is that of placid and ut terly despairing sorrow. The matronly form, the manner in which the mother's arm protects her clinging babe, the fine natural positions of the children — none can behold without admiration ; nor, I think, without wishing that the whole group was better disposed for exhibiting the scene so vaguely indicated by the severed and regu larly placed figures. At the extremity of the gallery are two statues by DonateUo — John the Baptist in the Wilder- FLORENCE. 53 ness, and David. In viewing the former, one must admit its excellence as an artificial repre sentation of an attenuated human form; but few can restrain a feeling of impatience in viewing it as the image it is designed to exhibit. In the successful attempt to delineate a victim of famine, all trace of devotion and benignity is lost. In this, as in other instances, the subject of regret is, that the artist had not been satisfied with exe cuting a fine imitation of nature, instead of aim ing, at the same time, at representing a great character. Michael Angelo's Christ would not so often disappoint, were it known by another name. It is the nature of man to associate with names corresponding ideas; and he mars not a little the completeness of his fame, who is prone to connect with the emanations of his genius or industry, the added attraction of a title which is, in itself, calculated to excite great expectations. That title will anticipate the work itself in repu tation; and hence the notions of the multitude will be proportionably raised. It is highly inter esting to peruse the various, and, for the most part, strongly marked countenances in the Por trait Gallery. These likenesses comprise authen tic delineations of the master painters. Those of Titian, Vandyke and Perugini particularly ar rested my attention. In the Corsini Palace, several sketches by Sal vator ; a powerful modern work — the Death of Priam ; a very pretty one — the Corsini Children ; 64 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. two Dutch portraits, finished up with a dreadful fidehty to nature ; Carlo Dolci's Poesia, and a drawing by Raphael, are the most interesting works in the extensive collection. Of late pro ductions of art at present to be seen in this city, few interested me more than those of Bartolini, the most celebrated, and in some respects the best of modern seulptors. The statue of Charity, with an infant asleep in her arms, and a boy receiving instruction at her feet, and a beautiful Priestess of Bacchus, still in the hands of the artist, most delighted me. I viewed also, with lively pleasure, a picture just completed by a young Florentine — the miracle of a mule refusing her proffered food, and falling upon her knees at the sight of St. Anthony bearing the host. What ever may be thought of the subject, the execution is wonderful. The countenance of the covered heretic, for whose good the miracle is supposed to have been performed, expressing astonishment and conviction, the calm, self-possessed air of the saint, with the reverence and still devotion beaming from the attentive features of the sur rounding crowd — all this is most feelingly con ceived and depicted. The artist is but twenty years of age — one of a gifted family. As the season of mildness and salubrity un folds with the rapidity and luxuriance peculiar to southern Europe, the pleasures of pedestrianism and excursions into the vicinity are augmented. To gain the summit of Fiesole, the place of Cata- FLORENCE. 65 line's encampment, and gaze from off the beauti ful and cypress-decked esplanade in front of the old monastery there situated, upon the city be neath, and the snowy heights in the distance, or to thread the sunny path that skirts the river, becomes daily more delightful. The song of birds in the groves, the rustling of the bright lizards among the dead leaves, and the hum of insects in the warm air, are too spring-like not to excite, with their genial vivacity, the contemplative spirit. On these occasions, the converse of friendship would frequently and almost spontaneously die away before the subtle influence of awakening and teeming nature. Ever and anon we involuntarily paused to admire the beauty around. The river, presenting an increased body of Avater, rapidly purling along its wayward course — the opposite bank displaying its numerous and various trees, now becoming more deeply umbrageous and ver dant — while, upon each hand, was that glorious object, the hoary mountain ranges, reflecting the scattered sun-hght, and contrasting with the in dented slopes — combined to form a landscape of peculiar cheerfulness and beauty. It was on a day like this that I extended my acquaintance with the environs of the city, rauch beyond the Umits to which previous excursions had carried me. After six miles of riding, we reached Pratolino, a vUla of the Grand Duke, and perarabulated its park-like grounds, the wooded parts of which forcibly reminded me of Mount 6* 66 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. Auburn. Here we viewed a most colossal statue, composed of brick, plaster-work and stone, which, from its awful size and muscular development, presents a raammoth rather than a truly sublirae object. The fountain designed to flow over it Avas quite dry. The figure is human, and in a sitting posture. We went through the ceremony of ascending and entering the enormous head of this monstrous result ofthe labors of Giovanni di Bologna. The old lacquey de place who accom panied us promised to point out his country house on the road; and when we were passing a broad plain having a large cross in the centre, declared that to be the " horae in the country " to which he confidently expected to retire. It was the public burying-ground. Thus spoke he of the last resting place of his body; and in his habit and easy raanner of sustaining the mortal coil, I recognized one of those peculiar philosophers of whom Goldsmith so often and so charmingly speaks. The last week of Carnival, although unmarked by the extravagant festivities which attract the stranger multitude at the seat of Catholicism, is yet sufficiently prolific of amusement. The Lung' Arno, as the street bordering the river is called, is thronged; and the occasional appear ance of a party of maskers, and especially that of a gilded and painted vehicle, filled with a band of choristers dressed in the Chinese fashion, evi dences a gala time. The Grand Duke's equi- FLORENCE. 67 page, consisting of several carriages drawn by four horses richly caparisoned, with gaudy out riders, adds to the passing show. A Festa di Ballo is the favorite evening diversion. The extensive floor of one of the large theatres is covered with people of various orders, the num ber of maskers being generally small in propor tion to the whole assembly. Most of the feraales wear large black silk dominos and half masks. A few gay and comical disguises appear amid the throng ; and most of the time three or four sets of waltzers are footing it away in various parts of the building. There is far less of genu ine humor than I had looked for, and a small display of taste in the costumes. Most of the maskers, in their silent glidings to and fro, seemed convened rather for intrigue than mere pastime. Indeed the practice, when not evidently made use of as a source of mirth, or successful in pro ducing that effect, is too intrinsically sinister to please those unaccustomed to it. I can readily imagine a masquerade in France as a very gay, amusing, and perhaps pleasing spectacle ; but if this be a specimen of this form of diversion in Italy, I can only say that it possesses, in my view, little comparative attraction. The Chiesa di St. Giovanni is splendidly arrayed in tapestry, and brilliantly illuminated. The inspiring solos and choruses, with the deep responses of the as sembled multitude, and the grand instrumental harmony, formed a scene more impressive and 68 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. interesting than the combined pleasures of the Carnival. Araong the by-way mirth observable at this mirthful season, one instance struck me as quite unique. A man wearing a military chapeau stood upon an inverted basket, at a corner, with an outstretched arm and a fixed eye, immovable as a statue. The joke consisted in his perfect im mobility, amid the jeers and questionings of an eager group. In the midst of a warm debate, whether the figure was artificial or human, the support was removed from beneath his feet, and the hero of the scene joined in the merriment, the source of which was so essentially the product of Florentine wit. A few days after, I saw a mul titude convened to witness a sadder but equally characteristic spectacle. In front of the singular old prison of Florence, three criminals were ex posed, having upon their breasts large placards indicating their names, ages and crimes. They had been condemned to the galleys for three years, and the bell had assembled a curious crowd to gaze upon their wretchedness, and witness their transportation. On a fine afternoon, we visited Prato, a manu facturing town ten miles distant, for the purpose of witnessing a religious procession which occurs there once in three years, and is deemed one of theniost iraposing in Italy. Having passed two or three hours in roaraing about the streets, amid the dense crowds assembled to behold the cere- FLORENCE. 69 monial, about dusk we took the station previously obtained for us, being one compartment of the rough and somewhat elevated galleries which lined the way. The houses were iUuminated, and the strong light falling upon two tiers of spectators arranged on either side, gave to the scene a remarkable effect. First in the proces sion, (designed in observance of the death of our Saviour,) came a large cavalcade, habited as the ancient Roman soldiers, the leaders wearino; rich mantles and dark-plumed helmets ; then a con siderable body of infantry; then a band of mu sicians clad in black. After these appeared an immense number of laymen bearing torches, and followed by boys, priests and marshals ; and then were borne successively, all the erableras of our Saviour's sufferings, and, inscribed upon ban ners, his words during the erucifixion ; after all, preceded by a large choir of priests, and sur rounded by torch-bearers, appeared the image of the dead Jesus, over which was carried a large black canopy; then came the Madonna, more music, another cavalcade of soldiery, and files of citizens closed the procession. As this was the first ceremonial of the kind I had witnessed, ray interest was considerably excited. It certainly was well calculated to induce its destined influ ence. The combined effect of such a solemn moving pageant, and the gazing multitude, re vealed to the sight by the flickering glare of a hundred torches ; the profound stillness which 70 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. reigned, broken only by an occasional murmur, the deep tones of the chanters, or the measured strains of the instruments ; the view, under such circumstances, of the syrabols of the sufferings of Hira who, on that day, centuries past, was borne mournfully and quietly to the sepulchre — all came most touchingly and with an awful and solemn distinctness upon the mind. Among the curious ceremonies of the holy week, observed in Florence, is that called the Columbina. At mid-day, the figure of a small dove is made, by fire-works, to glide rapidly along a large wire, frora the main altar of the Cathedral, through the principal entrance to the other side of the street, where it comes in contact with a magazine of squibs lodged in a massive carved block or pillar, thence producing gradual but continued explosions. This phenomenon, although its effect is unaided by the darkness of night, is eagerly viewed by an immense populace filling the large square and adjacent balconies and windows. What its religious signification is I cannot precisely determine. The first fire is said to be communicated from a holy flint ; i. e. a small fragment of the tomb of Christ ; and the contadini attach great importance to the manner in which the dove executes her mission, not in deed a very peaceful one. Should her passage be uninterrupted, and the desired effect be produced, a favorable season for the crops is inferred ; if, on the other hand, mismanagement causes a fail- FLORENCE. 71 ure, the contrary event is sadly presaged. On this occasion, the whole aflJair went off well. It was regarded with rauch apparent interest — an interest, indeed, Avhich nothing but the character of the people and the force of popular supersti tions can explain. The opera of Norraa is rife with the beautiful music of Bellini, and the graceful poetry of Fe lice Romano. The first representation here was attended by an immense assemblage, and lis tened to with singular attention, from the fact that during the last autumn it was performed on the same stage, with a German lady as prima. donna, with what was believed to be an une qualled degree of success. The plot of this opera represents the Druids in Gaul, whose orgies are urged to the downfall of the Romans, who, under a proconsul, are occu pying this ancient seat of their rites ; and is said to have a hidden meaning, and to be allegorically significant of the abuse of raonastic institutions, and the downfall of the church, for which reason it was prohibited in Rorae under its original name, and before being presented there, received essential modifications. Norma is high priestess, her father high priest, and Adalgisa a young ministra in the temple. The young Roman offi cer woos and wins Norma, and afterwards is in love with Adalgisa. At length, being taken in the very act of spying upon the Druidical rites, he is condemned to death, when Norma declares 72 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. her apostacy, and glories to die upon the same pile with her faithless but repentant lover. This outline is most boldly sketched and interestingly fiUed up in the opera. The moving scenes are those in which the infidelity of the proconsul is discovered, where Norma makes a vain attempt to kill her offspring — her interview with Adal gisa— the last with PoUione, and that in which she implores her father's forgiveness, and com mits her children to his care. The choruses are remarkably fine, and the dresses, particularly of the females, quite picturesque. In Norma's first ministration at the altar, there is a hymn ad dressed to the raoon, the raost touching piece of vocalisra I have heard. Casta Diva, chejnargenti Queste sacre antiche piante, A noi volgi il bel sembiante Senza nube e senza vel. Tempra tu de' cori ardenti, Tempra ancor lo zelo audace, Spargi in terra quella pace Che regnar tu fai nel ciel. A noi yolgi il bel sembiante Senza nube e senza vel. For pathos, vigor of acting, and strong moral expression, the consumraation of the plot in this opera, as developed by vocal and dramatic tal ents of a high order, is unsurpassed. When the young and gallantly arrayed Roman is brought before the Druidical assembly, to answer to the FLORENCE. 73 charge of haunting their sacred groves, he sees Norma for the first time since, on the detection of his estrangeraent, she overwhelmed him with in dignant reproaches. And now, when the aveng ing steel is raised to destroy him, she solicits her unsuspecting parent to allow her a private inter view with the culprit, as it were to search into the motives of his sacrilege. The brilliant tem ple is deserted by all but the proconsul and her he has injured. He quailed not before the angry multitude, nor at the threatening weapon ; but the eloquent eye of Norma thrills him with ,awe. I can scarcely imagine a more commanding dra matic representation of woman's dignity and power under the sense of injury, than is dis played in the majestic mien and sternly beaming countenance of Norma, as Avith the oak leaf gar land upon her head, her long dark hair falling ov^er white habiliments, and her symmetrical arms quite bare and braceleted with gold, she pauses before the awe-struck Roman, and gazing as if to read his soul and torture with the gaze — breaks the speU of a long and solemn silence with the deeply chanted words — In mia mano alfin (u sei. In the duet betAveen Norma and Adalgisa, where they mingle their saddened spirits and mourn together — the one for love unreturned, the 7 74 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. Other for love to be renounced — every note of the gamut is run up with a precision and melody truly astonishing. And the last duet between the former and PoUione, Avhen, by her voluntary self-sacrifice, the greatness of her character is revealed to him, and his affection is rencAved only to cheer her dreadful doom, is melting beyond description. Nor. — Qual cor tradisti, qual cor perdesti Quest' ora orrenda ti manifest!. Da te fuggire tentasti invano ; Crudcl Romano, tu sei con me. Un nume, un fato di te piii forte Ci vuole uniti in vita e in morte. Sui rogo istesso che mi divora, Sotlerra ancora sar6 con te. Pol. — Ah ! troppo lardi t'ho conosciuta — Sublime donna, lo t'ho perduta. — Col mio rimorso ^ amor rinato, Piu disperato, furente egli e. Moriamo insieme, ah ! si, moriamo ; L'estremo accento sara ch' io t' amo. Ma tu morendo non m' abborrire Pria de morire perdona a me. In a word, I have seen no opera Avhich com bines so much that is interesting, and frequently sublime ; and wonder not that in a country so imaginative and musical as this, and Avith such unrivalled performers, it should be so universally popular. In this, the city of its origin, the Italian opera seems to exist in singular perfection, and FLORENCE. 75 its votaries to evince a peculiar and discriminat ing enthusiasm.* It is not the intensity, but the peculiar chilli ness of the mountain wind, which renders winter formidable here. The difference of temperature, at that season, between the open country and in the full infiuence of the sun, and that of the narrow streets, is almost incredible. Hence the period of nature's renoA'ation is not less welcome than in colder climes. AndAvhen the feeremonies of the holy week were over, and the season, deemed the finest in Florence, at length palpably evinced itself, the mass of travellers returned thither, on their way northward. There is some thing to me singularly inconsistent in this me chanical driving way of seeing Italy. Of all countries it requires especial study, and calm ha bitual attention, to develope its resources. There is, indeed, a kind of pleasure, to one in good health and easily amused, in flying froni place to place, constantly seeking new objects, and ex hausting none. But this is surely a mere nega tive enjoyment The individual ^Aws intent upon self-gratification, may find it elsewhere, and by other means. The peculiar satisfaction deriva ble in this land, to one of us denizens of the new, the active, the bustling world, is found in its quiet air, its contemplative spirit, in the imagina- * Politiano is said to have originated the Italian opera, in his " Or- feo." 76 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. tive character of the amuseraents, in the calm impulse by which, under such circumstances, the current of existence is urged along. The per vading musical spirit of the Florentines seemed to break out anew as the genial season advanced, and no time were the opera airs, chanted by persons of almost every class, as they Avalk the streets at night, heard more frequently. The Florentines, and indeed the Tuscans gen erally are, as far as my observation extended, the happiest Italians; — more liberally governed they certainly are. But the number of paupers and improvidents, even here, must strike an American visitor; and blindness, or affections of the eyes, are- remarkably common. Yet the peculiar toll of the bell Avhich calls out the Miserico7'dla is comparatively seldom heard. This-is an ancient institution, the members of Avhich, at a certain summons, array themselves in sackcloth dominos, and hasten to execute Avhatever charitable office the occasion demands. The brethren are buried by the sociejy, whose dark forms, bearing a body, sometimes glide fearfully upon the sight, their torches flickering in the noon-day light, and their measured tread echoing among the busy streets quite solemnly. Although my early and favorable impressions of this city Avere confirmed, yet, in one respect, many arc liable to disappointment. With the imaginative expectancy natural to the inexperi enced, Ave may have pictured an inland Italian FLORENCE. "YJ city as a quiet spot, whose very air is redolent with the mellowness of age, and whose every ob ject, from the lowly dwelling to the magnificent church, is rich in the interest of antiquity. Here, on the contrary, there is much Avhich resembles what may be called the natural language of a modern metropolis. The constant cry of the venders, the hurrying to and fro of busy feet, the restlessness of trade, and the gaudy bustle of plea sure — all are here, and they break in too rudely upon the quiet beauty of the scene, antiquated as are some of its features, to permit of more than the occasional indulgence of that romantic iUu sion with which Ave are fain to tint the sterner outlines of reality. Yet there are times and as pects which carry the meditative into the region where they most delight to expatiate — the region of imaginative thought. The pleasure of a morn ing's lounge in the gallery of the Pitti, or the Tribune, of a retrospective hour in the holy pre cincts of St. Croce, above the "dustAvhich makes them holier," of a sunset view from the beautiful bridge of Santa Trinita, of an evening's walk along the Arno, of listening and gazing Avithin the chaste walls of the Pergola— all this would seem tarhe in description; but in reality it is en trancing. It is, too, morally exciting, Avhen the moon is careering high in the heavens, to walk around the spacious square of the Duomo, and look up at the Cathedral and beautiful greco-ara- bic campanile beside it, illuminated by a light so 7* 78 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. in unison with their own dusky yet rich hues, so revealing to the mammoth proportions of the one, and the towering but simple elegance of the other. When the Avide space around reflects no sound but the faint echo of a sohtary pedestrian, stand ing in full view of such a grand and time-hal lowed result of human art, and remembering hoAV oft the same lonely orb has bathed in silver ra diance the old dome and pinnacles — more faithful in the still tenderness of her nightly greetings than the eA^anescent and inconstant sentiment of man — the idea of Italy and her intellectual noble ness coraes home like a realized dream to the heart. NAPLES. ¦ ? He wore the sandal shoon and scallop shell." Although called by the vetturino, on ¦ a January morning, at about half past two, I had cause, as usual, to regret my ready attention to his sum- , mons, for it was nearly six when I Avas actually moving on in the cabriolet of the carriage by the side of my cowipagnon de voyage. The thin scattered clouds Avhich dimraed the sky of early day gathered raore darkly as we proceeded, so that all raeans of avoiding direct contact with the rain were soon put in requisition. It Avas no small disappointment to me, when arrived at our first stopping-place, Albano, to find myself shiv ering at the scanty fire ofthe inn-kitchen, instead of roaming over the hill and about the lake which give so much celebrity to this village. One of the passengers, more hale, though I ween 106 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. not more zealous than myself, made a hurried visit to the spot, and returned quite wet, to com- ¦*> plain of the littleness of the sheet of water digni fied with the title of lake. When we again set out, the rain was pouring in torrents, and the utter gloorainess of the scenery, and compara tively comfortless state of our feelings, made the slow riding of the few remaining hours of light uninteresting, to say the least. How the misera ble dinner, cold quarters, and dreary aspect of our night's shelter were gone through with, every old traveller can imagine. Each bore the several privations according to his humor, though the chief consolation seemed to be derived from the idea of home-comfort which the contrast sug gested. A seemingly long, and equally dark ride brought us the ensuing morning to the borders of the Pontine Marshes, renowned for the antiqua ted attempt to drain them, and some circumstan ces of ancient history in connection with which they are mentioned. The quality which has rendered them soraewhat formidable in modern times — their pestiferous exhalations — was imper ceptible, either from our confined situation, or the peculiar state of the atmosphere. We ran with great rapidity over the fine road which crosses them, extending twenty-four miles, and reached the Terracina Hotel, just as a little interval of temporary sunshine occurred. From a back Avindow of this castle-like building, I could gaze ITALIAN JOURNEYING. 107 out upon the Avide Avaters of the Mediterranean, as they carae roUing splendidly onward in high waves, Avhich were spurned baclcAvard by the jutting rocks, or lost theraselves moaningly upon the sands. This most sublime object in nature I viewed Avith something of the delight with which we unexpectedly encounter an old friend, as well as Avith much of the imaginative satisfaction it must ever inspire. The bright waters of a sea like this ! They brought to mind the fearful acts they had con summated, the awful wrecks made by their treacherous workings, the scenes enacted on their shores, the men by whose writings they have been hallowed. But they suggested yet raore tender and awakening associations. It was by such a mediura that I passed with a dream-like rapidity from the ncAv to the old Avorld ; from in fluences more deeply operative than art's raost perfect witchery; from my home to, a strange land. Were these waters as living messengers, could one breath of my raost native sentiment, one gush of my heart's best feelings enter and roll on within a wave, seemingly pure enough to embody something spiritual, until it was poured upon my native shore — how eloquent would it be of gratitude and greeting ! We soon crossed the pass formed by the sea on the one side, and high hills on the other, Avhere Maxiniius posted his troops to resist tho onward march of Hannibal. This pass, like all of na- 108 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. ture's strong holds, is apparently invulnerable Avhen in any wise fortified ; and in the season of fioAvers and verdure, must present a very beauti ful appearance. We next reached Fondi, in which beggarly vUlage we were long detained for the examination of our baggage. I regretted that night prevented my having a glimpse of the building, supposed to have been the tomb of Cicero, erected on the spot where he met so un deserved a fate. Our night at Mola was sorae what better than the previous one, and yet suffi ciently dull. The moaning of the sea beneath the windows, and the splashing of the rain, made raost unpromising music, while the cold stone floors and scanty accommodations did not much counteract its influence. The most cheering ob ject which raet our eyes the next morning, after several miles' ride, Avas the sun, Avho succeeded this time in pushing his fiery course through the " cloudy crowd which surrounded, as a troop of pressing retainers, his imperial out-going. Some very antique-looking aqueducts, and an adraira- ble ncAv bridge which crosses the Garigliano, (anciently the Liris,) next occupied our notice. The noon rest was at the raiserable village of modern Capua, the inn and aspect of which, we concluded, were the worst we had yet seen. The remainder of our ride lay over a very dirty though level road. ' It was surprising to observe that a highway so near a great city was no more travelled or better kept than this appeared to be. ITALIAN JOURNEYING. 109 Night fell sometirae before we reached Naples, and we observed a fire, apparently burning in a narrow and long streak upon a hill side, Avhich, seen thus, through a misty atmosphere and a long vista of trees, was quite remarkable. It was the distant looming of Vesuvius ! It was long before day-break, and during damp and cloudy weather, that Ave entered the old coach which was to convey us to Rome. A young Dominican mo"nk, vvith his white habili ments, within, and tAvo German youths, without, completed the party; and v/e moved tardily along, after our passports had been inspected at the gate. The air and a.spect, during the long day, continued to wear a November cast; and a lonely and cold ride at night, contributed to ren der our journey, at its outset, one of those disraal experiences, so often described in the traveUer' s tale. The following day proved rauch clearer and colder ; and toward its close, our interest be came excited by coraing in vicAv of the ground where Hannibal obtained his signal victory oA'er Flaminius. The very tower to which the con queror's horse was tied, is still pointed out. The site of this battle-ground, at the end of the lake of Trasimenus, seemed, beneath the dira light of a gloomy sky, quite extensive enough, and suffi ciently environed with elevations, to afford ample scope for the raanoBuvring and action of ancient warfare ; and its present solitary aspect must 10 110 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. present a wonderful contrast to the energy and effects once developed there. Beside that lake, in a grim old inn, we rested tiU dawn, and found the first stage of our early ride exceedingly un comfortable, from the cold. It was about noon when we reached Perugia, and after a slight repast, commenced peregrina ting the old town. I was amused to observe that the inhabitants, even the meanest clad, wore their cloaks somewhat after the Roman fashion, having the right skirt thrown over the left shoulder. In the church of St. Dominic, we found the large windoAV of stained glass, behind the altar, quite splendid, and from its striking position and size, by far the most beautiful orna ment in the building. Hastening to the church of St. Peter, we were impressed Avith its admira ble locality, being placed upon an elevation with out the iraraediate circle of houses, commanding from behind a very extensive prospect, and hav ing in front an ample esplanade. The pictures it contains are very interesting, not so much from actual poAver, as on account of their authors. There are several of Perugini, the master of Raphael, his OAvn master, and a few of Raphael's, Avhich are obviously first efforts. These evince that gradual but distinct improvement in style and execution, by which every art and effort of humanity is carried toward perfection. Scarcely a square foot of wall is there in this church which is not adorned with frescos; and the ITALIAN JOURNEYING. m whole building, with its contents, is a pleasing little antiquity. On our way from this town we left the coach to inspect another church by the road-side, which was undergoing repairs, called the Ma donna degli Angeli. Here, scattered upon the cold pavement, were some Franciscans, in their coarse habits of brown stuff', looking more mis erable in their ignorant dejection than any of the Catholic priesthood we had fallen in with. Even ing found us at Foligno, where we saw little to interest us, except the feats of sorae children who were leaping in a shed, much to the amuseraent of a vulgar audience, and a view of the innumer able props by which many of the older houses, shattered by a recent earthquake, seemed to be mainly sustained. The next morning we paused upon the post- road, soon after recommencing our journey, to observe the temple of Clitumnus, now a chapel, rendered worthy of notice frora its antiquity. At Spoleto, our noon resting place, we were not — strange to tell — charged for attention to our pass ports. This was the first town which appeared to me possessed of the genuine characteristics of ancient interest. A time-worn and quiet as pect was here immediately observable. Passing through Hannibal's gate, so called from an in scription thereon, setting forth the successful de fence made by the ancient inhabitants against his attacks, we came in view of a grand aque- 112 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. duct, supported by long and remarkably narroAV arches, and quite massive in execution. The scenery immediately contiguous is the finest of its class in the route ; the grand slope of the hill, and the vivid verdure of the ever-green pine being very refreshing to the eye. Indeed, the appear ance of the country grew far more picturesque about this period, the range of the Apennines becoming more lofty and variegated. At Terni, which we reached in the afternoon, we found a guide, and made exertions to reach the celebrated cascade in the vicinity, before sun set. The hUly path was ascended by means of donkeys, which we procured at its base. Em bosomed in high and verdant hills, over the brow of one of which it descends, is the fall. It pours nobly down, being of a milky whiteness, and moving Avith a grace and music such as alone is evinced by these beautiful phenomena in nature. There, its Avhite form of beauty amid a spacious and green amphitheatre, and crowned with sU very mist, falls ever the glorious cascade. As a vision too sweet long to linger, it has passed from before me ; but its memory is indelible, more pleasing to recall than even the monuments of ancient art or the peculiarities of olden time. Our stop the succeeding day Avas at the mean Anllage called Otriculum, without whose southern wall we tarried some time, looking upon the ad jacent coimtry, and especially upon a narrow and greenish, but beautifully meandering stream. ITALIAN JOURNEYING. II3 trying to realize that it was, in truth, the Tiber. We found, too, an old castle, to beguile the time tmtil overtaken by our carriage, which soon brought us to Civita Castelana. On entering this town we dismounted, and lingered to admire a very deep and umbrageous defile which is span ned by the bridge. We noticed, as somewhat remarkable, that the cathedral here, Avhich is partly composed of an ancient temple, has mo saic work upon its outer front. A fine castle, which probably gives the town its name, is the only other obvious object of interest. This journey, comraenced on the third of No vember, and concluded on the evening of the eighth, would have been somewhat tedious, but for social intercourse, and a few attendant sub jects of reflection. The almost total want of comfort at the miserable inns, is indeed no small drawback ; but my chief disappointment resulted from the want of beauty and interest in the ap pearance of nature. The only fine tree which met our view was the small olive of the country. Far more glorious are the variegated hues of autumn in America, than the monotonous color ing which here blends so much of the vegetative aspect. Throughout the ride, it frequently re quired effort to realize where we' were ; and only when within an old church, or in sight of an antiquated town, or once or twice at early morn ing, between two remarkably fine Apennine hills, 10* 114 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. did we feel Avhat one Avould deem the legitimate influences of Italy. Silently, and almost sadly, did I travel onward from the Tuscan dominions towards new scenes. We soon came upon the Apennine range, and thenceforward were continually ascending and descending. A dull Avarm atmosphere constant ly prevailed, with occasional rain. The aspect of nature Avas consonant with my feelings. The vapor Avreathed itself around the summits, and floated far down among the long defiles which were ever before us. In the evening we reached Bologna. Its arched sidewalks give to the streets a -very gloomy appearance; and this im pression was enhanced by the number of sol diery — the minions of Austria — everywhere visi ble. Vre visited the churches and public prom enade, and attentively regarded the statue of Nep tune, by Giovanni di Bologna, in the principal piazza, and the leaning tower. We also made an excursion of three miles intothe environs, and viewed the immense line of arches, extending thence to the city. The Campo Santo occupied us some time; and although some of the monu mental decorations are interesting, and the great scale of the establishment striking, yet there is little to create that impression Avhich is perhaps the only really exceUent result of such institutions. At the Academy of Fine Arts I found a higher satisfaction, and dwelt long upon the Madonna, ITALIAN JOURNEYING. II5 Ehzabeth, and the Infant Jesus, in the act of blessing Saint John, the Madonna della Pieta, and the Slaughter of the Innocents, by Guido Reni. St. Cecilia listening to a Choir of Angels, and surrounded by St. Paul, St. John, St. Augus tine, and the Magdalene, particularly interested me, as being one of Raphael's, and in his last style. An expression of fervid enjoyment is singularly obvious iu the beaming countenance of St. Cecilia. Many pictures also, by Francia, drcAV my attention, he being the contemporary of Raphael, and remarkably developing his style. There is, too, a fine work of art by Domeni- chino — the Martyrdom of St. Agnes. Upon de parting for Ferrara, we were almost at once upon the plains of LombEtrdy, and our remaining jour ney formed a striking contrast with its preceding portions. The poplar, peculiar to the country, bordered the road, but in form it is not compara ble with Avhat I had seen at home : the mulberry, too, prevailed, and, as we learned, was cultivated wholly on account of the silk manufacture to which it ministers; — an extensive affair here. The solitude was striking, nor was it diminished essentially when, shortly before sunset, we reached Ferrara, the principal thoroughfare of which city alone seemed well inhabited ; many broad streets- presenting a perfectly destitute appearance. I found Byron had not taken a poetical license when he called thera " grass- grown." 116 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. The comparatively ordinary monument to Ari osto, in the promenade, was the only object of interest which we had time to seek. The suc ceeding day we crossed the Po, an apparently sluggish stream, environed by an exceedingly flat country. After a weary examination of our lug gage, at this commencement of the Austrian dominions, we continued our route through such a quiet and dead plain, that the sight of Monte Silece, and its three adjacent elevations, was quite refreshing to the eye. At a village at the foot of this mountain we passed the night, and every previous^ hour of light was delightfully spent in viewing the seemingly interminable plains from various points of the hill. As I stood upon the old terrace in front of a rough grotto, (containing full length figures of St. Frances, the Madonna and Saviour,) looking forth upon the almost boundless prospect, and then wandered among the ruins of a castle, upon the hill's surarait, observed the old towering broken palace, with no living object about it but the figure of a withered crone, knitting at the door, I thought I had never seen a spot so in unison with the legends of the raiddle ages, which romance has hallowed and adorned. As we returned, the nu merous cypresses attracted our attention. We entered a little church, Avhere Avas a knot of vil lage girls, with their white mantiUas and black eyes, engaged in their devotions. Upon emerging, we noted a youth, whose dress and manners ITALIAN JOURNEYING. 117 seemed too studied for accident, in such a spot ; Ave were not long in surmising his intentions, for among the maidens, came forth one singularly beautiful ; her head was tastefully adorned with flowers, and her air somewhat sprighUy and con fident. I doubted not she Avas the beauty of the village; and as the young raan srailingly glided along by her side, and at the turn leading to the toAvn, darted into a narroAV by-path, I read a tale of love, of love in its spring-time, and sighed as I thought what might be its harvest The next morning we arrived in Padua, ^nd the busy and cheerful aspect of the place, it being fair day, at once interested and pleased me. Tavo or three hours were satisfactorily passed in viewing the churches : — that of St. Antonio (the patron saint of Padua) is a grand structure, and the Scuola adjacent interesting. I adraired the free, clean aspect, and sculpture ornaments of St. Justin, but lingered longest in the court and corridors of the old university, Avhere Avere assembled a finer col lection of young men than I had before seen in Italy, aAvaiting the lecture hour. I entered one of the high, dark chambers, Avhere a professor, in his black and erraine bound robe, was questioning a large number of students on the subject of his prior discourse on jurisprudence. There was something Avhich brought home forcibly to my mind, in the liberal, studious, christian aspect of this institution, and indeed of the whole city. 118 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. After dining at the Acquila d'Ora, three hours' riding brought us to the shore, whence we em barked in a gondola. The ocean queen lay before us, stretching her line of building tranquilly upon the still waters. In an hour we were in the main canal. I looked up to the antiquated and decayed buildings, the time-worn, yet rich architecture of the palaces ; I felt the deep silence, the eloquent decay, and long before the gondola touched the steps of the hotel, 1 realized that I was in Venice. THE LAST SOJOURN. '^ And now farewell to Italy — perhaps Forever ! Yet, methinks, I could not go, I could not leave it, were it mine to say Farewell forever I " MiLANo ! why is thy very narae suggestive of so many and such affecting associations? The luxuriance and fertility amid which Napoli is reared, the mellow air of antiquity that broods over the Eternal city, Firenze's picturesque beauty, Venezia's unique aspect — these attrac tions are not thine. Assuredly in thy sister cities there is more to interest, more to admire, more to delight a retrospective ideality. True, at the coraing on of evening, one raay gaze unweariedly upon the equipages of thy nobility and the beauty of thy daughters, as they pass in dazzling succes sion along the Corso, and wonder not that thy modern conqueror called thee his second Paris. True, thy splendid marraoreal cathedral, with its clustering spires, its countless statuary adorn- 120 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. ments, its magnificent proportions and gothic solemnity — true, thy cathedral is a tabernacle wherein to linger, rejoice and feel; and the richly- wrought chapel beneath, with the corse of Carlo Borromeo, in its crystal coffin, is a marvellously gorgeous sepulchre, and the broad v/hite roof above, whence the eye glances over the blue range of distant mountains and verdant plains of Lombardy, is no ordinary observatory. And then, again, one who loves to lose himself in mystic musings, may stand in the bare and de serted refectory of Santa Maria della Grazia, and ponder the mouldering remnant of Leon ardo's genius, — tracing the fretted outlines of the forms and faces revered, that are clustered around the "Last Supper;" and if it rejoice one to behold the very poetry of physical life radiated frora inanimate matter, he raay note the sinewy forras, nervous limbs, distended nostrUs, and arching necks of the bronze steeds at the Simplon Gate ; ay, and one may beguile an hour at the GaUery of Art, were it only in perusing the coun tenance of Hagar, as she turns away from her home at the bidding of Abraham, as depicted by the pencU of Guercino ; or study the relics pre served in the Ambrosian Library; or sit, on a festa day, beneath the spreading chesnuts of the public gardens, surrounded by fair forms and gay costumes, while the air is rife with the inspiring instrumental harmony of the Austrian band. But is it the memory of such ministrations alone THE LAST SOJOURN. 121 that makes the thought of thee, Milano, what it is to me? No: I revert with fondness to thy level precincts and mountain-bound environs, because there the air of Italia was last inhaled — there her melody died away upon my ear— there was my last sojourn in Italy. The lapse of a few hours in Milan sufficed to indicate that something unusual Avas occupying and interesting the public mind. The caffes echoed the tones of earnest discussion ; shrugs, nods, and expressive gesticulations were lavished with even more than Italian prodigality; dark eyes beamed with expectancy ; the favored vota ries of amusement had something like a business air about them; the tradesmen loitered longer in by-way cOiiverse ; the journals teemed with elo quent and controversial articles; pamphlets were distributed, and placards posted. You might have deemed that the period so vividly described by Manzoni, when the Milanese were agitated by the factions which contended so long and warmly years gone by, about the price of bread, had returned, but tha,t the prevailing language of the present popular feeling was that of pleasure — of enthusiasm, rather than passion — of coramon an ticipation, rather than discordant interests. An American might have augured, from the signs of _ the time, that a strongly contested election was proceeding ; and a Parisian would probably have discerned the incipient elements of a revolution; but the cause of the exciteraent was such as 11 122 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. could produce similar visible effects no where but in Italy ; and no one but an Italian, or a familiar denizen of the land, could perfectly appreciate the phenomena. The tiUe-page of one of the newly issued pubUcations reveals the ostensible circum stance Avhich is at the bottom of the social agita tion; "ia Malibran d Milano" — yes, the re nowned Malibran had been unexpectedly engaged to give three representations of an opera, in which Pasta — the beloved of the Milanese, had been performing with what they deemed inimitable excellence. Long before the period designated, the boxes of the Scala were secured ; and many an ardent sojourner, and unprovided native, anx iously awaited the period when the other parts of the house would be throAvn open for general and indiscriminate appropriation. When at length the eventful evening arrived, the descending chandelier revealed an impatient multitude that, five hours previous, had taken possession of the parterre. Maria Louisa was a prominent occupant of the court box ; and Pasta, in the intense interest of the occasion, leaned over, and followed with a keen gaze the form of her rival, till it disappeared behind the scenes. Throughout the brilliant asserablage, convened in that splendid edifice, there Avas alternately pro found silence or resounding acclamations; and five times, at the close, did the bravissima donina obey the call, and come forth to receive their rap turous plaudits. It was with a melaUcholy emo- THE LAST SOJOURN. 123 tion, alriiost oppressive, that I remembered, on leaving the house, at the close of the last evening, that for me this beautiful magic was to cease. I felt that harmony, such as never before blessed my ears, was to enliven me no more ; that, like a summer breeze, it had borne its cool refreshment, it had wafted its odorous perfurae, it had awakened its note upon the harp of the spirit, and had flown on to cheer some other and more distant sojourner. AAvhile before the diligence started, I once more entered the cathedral. The noon-day sun was streaming through the stained glass of the windows, and a few priests were chanting at the altar. Seating myself beneath one of the lofty arches, and viewing again the' gothic grandeur and rich tressil-work around me, I yielded to the overwhelming reveries of the hour. I could not but feel that a few days of rapid movement would take me, perhaps forever, frora a land which had calmly but deeply ministered to my happiness, and graduaUy but surely gained upon my love. There was an earnest reluctance, a rebellion of the strong desires, a painful intermis sion in the cherished train of eraotion, at this renouncement of objects endeared by. taste and habit But especially did my thoughts cling sadly and tenaciously around what previous ideas and native sentiment had prepared me most readily and fervently to love — humanity. I felt that if the social activity and predominance of 124 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. mental endeavor which characterize my own country were wanting here, yet that I had known and experienced much of the true spirit of fra ternity, much of intellectual enthusiasm and gen erous sentiment I thought of the many hours of quiet and innocent enjoyraent, the instances of social kindness, the offices of syrapathy, and the spirit-stirring song, which had each and all opened fountains of living joy in a young but anxious breast. I realized in this hour of parting, hoAv near and dear the scenes and gratifications of Italy were to ray heart. The moral weak nesses and errors of the land were not, indeed, absent from ray mind ; but, Avith the thought of them, came also that of their causes, their pallia tions, and hopes for their subjugation under auspices fitted to cherish and develope the talent and feeling worthy of human nature. At about raid-day we departed, and were rapidly carried along the rich plains, looking greener and more fertile as we approached their terraination. Towards dusk the mountains rose sublimely in the distance, and the beautiful and still surface of Lago Maggiore was briUiantly revealed in the light of a full moon ; this land scape, indeed, , feasted our eyes during the early part of the night's ride, and fied only when the broken slumbers obtainable in a diligence, veiled or rendered introspective our visions. On leaving Domo d'Ossola, a scene was presented in every respect a contrast with what the preceding day's THE LAST SOJOURN. 125 ride had displayed ; — rugged mountains, snoAV- capped and rock-bound, noAv rising abruptly, and now gradually declining, here unclothed with aught umbrageous, there supporting the clinging firs, sometimes moist with dripping springs, and at others, exhibiting a dry unbroken surface of granite. The cold bleak points, hoary with snow, were ever above us, the murmuring of falling water continually audible, and some new combi nation of crude and aspiring mountain, winding vale, and chainless rock, ever and anon attracting the eye. Attention, too, was often and irresisti bly withdrawn from this chaotic scenery to the immense product of human art, of which we were so securely availing ourselves. The preci pices on either side, the rough-hewn grottos through Avhich we passed, the ever-varying and yet ever wild and solitary aspect of all around, evidenced that we were upon the Simplon. For some time after fhe raoon had again arisen, the foaming waters of the Rhone were seen glancing like molten silver in her bearas. After leaving Martigny, the Pissevache Fall was in view; its misty and graceful form, even at that early hour, crowned with rainbow hues; and beyond St. Maurice, aiiother beautiful object appeared — a long fleecy cloud, resting, spirit-like, upon the centre brow of a lofty mountain. Ere long, the broad and blue waters of Leman were in sight, and our course lay along its shore, by the castle of Chillon, and the villages of Vivey and Lau- 11* 126 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. sanne. From the succeeding dawn until our arrival at Geneva, we were riding in view of the lake, rich and flower-decked meadows, beautiful villas, and far away, white and toAvering, the " awful and sovran Blanc " met the eye, to kindle imaginative visions of grandeur ; to transport the beholder into the beautiful valley at its base, within hearing of its waterfalls, and full in view of its congregated sublimity. So magic-like did the versatile and effective images collect and pass upon the raind' s camera, that it was not until the contrasted and raagnificent insignia of Switzer land thus completely environed us, and the im pressions thence derived became continuous and absorbing, that I felt that the staff of my pil griraage Avas indeed re-assumed, and my sojourn in Italy ended. TALES. THE DISCLAIMER. A TALE OF ROME. " Know that the human being's thoughts and deeds Are not like ocean billows lightly moved ; The inner world his microcosmus is — The deep shaft out of which they spring eternally." I KNOW of few situations more favorable to the indulgence of a habit — doubtless of questionable utility in these utilitarian days, although sanc tioned by the exarhple of no less a personage than Geoffrey Crayon — the habit of day-dreaming, than that of a traA'^eller when cosily ensconced within the narrow liraits of an Italian vettura. If the coach is old, the steeds superannuated, and the vetturino utterly devoid of Jehu ambition, as is ordinarily the case — if the road abound in long, winding declivities — if the passengers be taci turn, and the quiet, sunny atmosphere of early autumn prevail, such a combination of circum stances will produce upon his mental mood some what the effect of lateral sunbeams shining .through richly-colored windows, upon the marble 130 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. floor of a cathedral. The images of Memory and Hope will appear magnified, and lit up into soothing beauty, as revealed by the mellow light of musing. At least, such was my experience during the afternoon of a long day, the evening of Avhich we designed to pass under shelter of the Seven Hills, Avhence the thunders of ancient elo quence and war were so lavishly fulminated. Aroused by the exclamation of a Tuscan friar, my next neighbor, who had mistaken a semi circular cloud floating in the far horizon, for the dome of St. Peter's, I began to note the state of things around. Our humble locomotive was creeping up a hill, formidable only from its length, and the customary murraur of paupers at ¦the Avindows Avas blending with the rumbling of the carriage and the monotonous cheerings of the vetturino. Suddenly a face peered in at the win dow, so singular and startling in its features and expression, as to convey an impression never to be forgotten. The beggar throng seemed to have been awed into a retreat by the stranger's appearance; so that the idea, that he was of their fraternity, was banished as soon as sugges ted. Grasping the knob of the coach door, and leaning over till his long, dark beard rested on the window sill, he gazed with stern raournful- ness upon us, and rauttered, in a subdued, quiet tone, alternately in Gerraan and Italian, — "I didn't do it," tUl Our vehicle reached the sum mit of the mountain, when, at the renewed speed THE DISCLAIMER. 131 of the horses, he stopped, waved his hand, looked after us a moment, and was lost to view. While we were tarrying at the gate, to obtain the requisite signatures to our passports, a fine- looking old gentleman, one of the occupants of the cabriolet, perceiving my thoughts were still upon the remarkable intrusion we had recently experienced, seemed disposed to converse on the subject " Was not that a head for Salvator's pencil? " he asked. "Ay — think ye he could not unfold a tale meet for Dante's Inferno?" inquired the friar. The old man seemed somewhat offended, and turned away without replying. "Can you tell me aught of this man?" I asked. ^ "Signor," he replied, " perhaps I can. We shall doubtless meet, ere many days, at the caffe or on the Pincian" He was interrupted by the officer who re turned us our passports, and in a raoraent after we were rattling by the fountain in the, Piazza del Popolo, most of us absorbed in the thousand varying emotions with which the stranger for the first time enters the Eternal city. Whoever would effectually banish the dis agreeable impression which the first view of the Forum, when seen by the garish light of day, almost invariably induces, should early avail 132 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. himself of a moonlight evening, to renew his visit. The wood merchants, lounging among their cattle and diminutive carts — the score of ant-like excavators, and the groups of improvi dents, are then no longer visible, and the scene exhibits something of the dignity which we spon taneously associate with Roman ruins. At such a season I had perambulated, more than once, the space between the Arch of Titus and the Temple of Peace, and began to wonder that no other sojourner had been tempted by the au spicious light to roam thither — for the moon was nearly full, and the atmosphere remarkably clear — when, happening to glance toward the Coli seum, I saw a stately figure emerge from the pile, as if to answer my conjecture. There are cir cumstances under which the sight of a human being — simply as such — is an event of profound interest. Thus it was on this occasion; and I stepped from the shadow of the ruin near which I was standing, that the stranger might be aware of ray presence. Immediately his steps were directed toward me, and, while yet at sorae dis tance, the voice in which his salutation was uttered, convinced me that mv aged compagnon de voyage was approaching, lu a kw raoments we were seated upon a bench which some labor ers had left among the weeds, muffled in our cloaks; and thus the old man spoke in answer to my entreaties for his promised tale. THE DISCLAIMER. I33 " It is a curious study, signor, to trace the inklings of superstition, where the general vein of character is vivacious or its eleraents intense. And it is, perhaps, irapossible for an uniraagina- tive mind to understand the deep interest which urges some men daringly to touch the sensitive and latent chords of the human heart, in order to call forth their mystic music. Yet with Carl Werner, the love of thus experimenting was a passion. Not that he lacked susceptibUity ; on the contrary, the very refinement of his feel ings led him to speculate upon the deeper and more intricate characteristics of his race. Deeply imbued with the transcendental spirit which dis tinguishes the intellectual men of his country, his curiosity was essentially ideal. Several years ago he arrived in Rome, and was soon domesti cated in the family of Christofero Verdi, whose suite of apartments were directly above a range of studios in one of the most e:^tensive buildings in the Via Condotfa. His rooms, as you must be aware, if you have many acquaintances among the German residents here, were, at this time, a great resort for northern artists. Berenice Verdi, his only child, was one of those beings who seem destined to pass through life without being justly apprehended even by their intimates. There was a peculiar want of correspondence between her ordinary raanner and real disposition. She was playful rather than serious, and yet beneath a winning sportiveness of demeanor, deep and 12 134 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. Strange elements of feeling and fancy were glow ing. Between Carl and Berenice there grew up a strong sympathy ; and yet the sentiment could not be called love. Indeed, her habitual treatment of her father's young friend was what the world would called coquettish. She was ever rallying hira on his peculiarities, and he was ever acting the philosopher rather than the beau. But the truth was, she deeply reverenced Carl, and was drawn toward hira by his very isolation and kindness ; and he saw farther into her character than any one else, and was sensible of an interest such as the consciousness of this insight alone, Avould naturally inspire. Berenice was nervous and excitable in her temperaraent, and suscepti ble to the aAvful in romance beyond any being I ever knew. Carl wielded this influence with the freedom and power of an imaginative German. She felt his sway, and, like other unacknowl edged victims in the social universe, strove,' perhaps unwittingly, by an assumed appearance, to keep out of sight reality. " Carl came to Rome professedly as an artist; but the views, the motives, the very spirit of the man were as totally unlike those which influence and characterize the multitude of students of painting and sculpture who frequent this region, as his physiognomy ; and that, you are aware, is sufficiently reraarkable. One trait, which I ob served at once, Avas sufficient to distinguish him from the herd. So wide and seemingly impas- THE DISCLAIMER. 135 sable, in his mind, Avas the chasm between con ception and execution, that his genius, inven tive and active as it was, appeared completely thwarted and bewildered. The few results of its exercise with which I am acquainted, were called forth by the appeal of friendship ; and these Avere altogether insufficient to rescue the young German from the charge of idleness and apathy brought against him, sometimes Avith no little asperity, by some members of his fraternity. But Carl duly received his remittances, dis charged his obligations, contributed his raoiety toward the convivial enjoyments of his compa triots, and molested no one ; and, therefore, he Avas permitted to enjoy his eccentricities in com parative peace. One or two letters were, indeed, forwarded by a pretentious acquaintance to his nearest relative, suggesting the expediency of incarcerating him in an insane asylum; but as no notice was taken of the epistles, it is presumed they shared the common fate of voluntary advice, and were treated with perfect indifference, silent indignation, or contempt. The conduct which induced such a procedure was, in truth, such as an ordinary observer would naturally ascribe to mental aberration ; and, strictly speaking, it might have been thus accounted for philosophi cally. Carl passed the greater part of every night amid these ruins; his speculations on the obelisks, treasures of the Vatican, and even on the opera performances, were as unintelligible to 136 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. most persons as they were intrinsically peculiar. But his chief peculiarity was that to which I first aUuded — a disposition to play upon the minds of his fellow beings, by addressing their hopes and fears through the medium of imagination. I could not now relate the thousand anecdotes I have heard in illustration of the force of this pro pensity in him. The single, fatal instance, of the effects of Avhich I Avas personally a witness, will suffice. " One evening, Avhile Carl and several brother artists were enjoying their coffee at Christofero's, the conversation turned upon portrait painting, and finally upon the attempts of artists to portray themselves. Berenice — who just before had re lated a dreara, in which several of the old portraits in the Barbarini Palace seemed to her suddenly endowed Avith life, and to converse together on some of the political interests of their times — rallied Carl as being the only one of the coterie who had not attempted his own likeness. ' Confess, Werner,' said she, ' that the fear of not doing justice to thy notable phiz, has deterred thee from any endeavor to prepare even a sketch for thy friends in Leipsic. I doubt if thou Avouldst alloAV Titian and Raphael, should they re-appear, to share the honor of depicting thee.' — Carl made no reply save by composedly sipping his favorite beverage ; and when the laugh had subsided, the subject was forgotten in the discussion of some other topic. THE DISCLAIMER. 137 " On a fine afternoon, a few days after this interview, Carl and Berenice incidentally raet on the dark stair-way. It was not usual for the former to go forth at that hour, and the latter was in a conversable humor. By way of begin ning a colloquy, she begged the loan of a particu lar drawing. Werner, as usual, expressed his readiness to oblige her, and hurried on ; but after descending a fcAv steps, he turned round, as if a sudden and important thought had struck him. ' Berenice,' said he, ' go not to my roora for the sketch ; I will bring it thee in an hour.' — Having thus spoken, he hastened away, the iron- shod heels of his boots ringing on the stone stairs, till he reached the street door — then, returning, with a noiseless tread, to his studio, he so ar ranged the window curtains as to exclude . all light except the chastened rays that gleamed through the upper panes, and shot obliquely across the room, leaving the side which Avas hung with paintings in shadow. Here he had previously stationed an easel, upon which rested a fresh and richly-draped portrait, while from its edge, masses of green cloth fell in folds to the floor, so that nothing but the projecting top and slanting position of the machine rendered it cog nizable. To cut out, with a sharp penknife, the head from the picture, and insert his own living head in its place, to comb the hair and Avhiskers outward upon the canvas so as to render it im possible to distinguish the actual from the por- 12* 138 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. trayed, to fix his dark, deep eye upon a distant point, and compose into death-like quietude the lines of his expressive countenance, — all this with Carl was but the work of a moment. "Meantime Berenice might be heard restlessly pacing the narrow bounds of her little boudoir overhead, her mind occupied precisely as Werner had anticipated. ' What can Carl be about?' she musingly inquired ; ' now what if we have laughed hira into taking his own portrait?' A capital joke, truly, to broach at supper to-night ! What I the independent, self-sufficient Werner, Avho lives in the clouds, spurred into unwonted action by the ridicule of us — common mortals? Ha! ha! There can be no harm in taking a single peep into his sanctum. By this time he is on the other side of the river, or in the Villa Bor- ghese.' And with these reflections, Berenice ran down, and stole gently into the apartment of the mysterious artist. "Her eye fell directly upon the countenance of Werner. ' Conceited as ever ! ' she exclaimed, regarding the elegant drapery depicted upon the canvas ; ' and the likeness, — poh I that 's no better than it should be ; the brow is too ample, the eye too expressive ; that scornful play of the lip, though, is right. Well, I suppose this flattered, wooden-looking portrait must be lauded as the best product of the pencil since Vandyke's time — and all because of the industrious, aflTable and gifted Carl Werner of Leipsic ! ' As Bere- THE DISCLAIMER. I39 nice uttered the last sentence, in a tone of irony, she fixed her gaze upon the eyes of the portrait. The echo of her Avords seemed marvellously pro longed, and just as it died away, the solemn chant of a priestly train, about to administer the last sacrament to the dying inhabitant of the next dwelling, stole mournfully up from the street. The latent superstition of Berenice was awakened. Her gaze became more steadfast. She thought, she dreamed, — nay, she felt that those feyes were reading her soul as they full oft had done; the electric fiuid which only living eyes can communicate was perceptibly radiated : the very lips seemed wreathing into a meaning smile, and the lines of the forehead working as she had seen them in his thoughtful moods. She would have given Avorlds to haA'e withdrawn her gaze; but the illusion was too complete. She kneeled down from very feebleness and awe, and folding her arms fervently upon her bosom, as if to still its audible throbbings, she gazed on like a fascinated bird. Cold dew distilled upon her brow; the fever of her blood dried it away, and now its surface was calm, and unmoistened, like newly-chiseled marble. " Her emotions, individually intense as they were, in their now concentrated energy were momentarily growing more unendurable. She leaned forward in an agony of expectation. The aspect of the portrait remained unchanged, but from the lips stole out, in the tones which had 140 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. won her heart, the single word — ' Berenice ! ' It struck her ear like the knell of a catastrophe. She uttered one despairing cry, and sunk upon the floor. That ejaculation was borne on her last breath. " When my efforts had been unavailingly ex hausted in efforts to resuscitate the unfortunate lady — for being the nearest physician, I was first called — my attention was turned toward the wretched originator of the tragedy. Werner lay crouched upon the carpet, gazing with an ex pression in which inanity and despair were strangely blended, upon the form of Berenice. Reason was now, indeed, overthrown. Perceiv ing himself noticed, he crawled to my feet, and looking piteously up, murmured in a convulsive tone — '/ didn't do it.' His constant repetition of this phrase, year after year, has obtained for him the title of The Disclaimer. Remorse peo ples his imagination with her awful images. And he will doubtless be a wanderer, feared by the rabble and pitied by few, till accident or dis ease lays low his powerful frame, and enfran chises from the thrall of insanity his extraordi nary and aspiring spirit" THE SAD BIRD OF THE ADRIATIC. " I loved her from my boyhood — she to me Was as a fairy city of the heart." No complacent hero of chivalric times ever sal lied forth from his castle-doraain with a raore free or self-sustained feeling, than Giovanni Deltini left the Monforti Palace — the abode of a branch of his family, on a calm summer evening, at a period subsequent to the era when knightly enterprise was rife in Europe. It had been a day of festival in Venice ; of AA'hich the young man was reminded by the unusual number of passing gondolas, indicating that their various occupants, wearied with the amuseraents of- the Piazza, were hastening, at an unwontedly early hour, to enjoji- the more rational delights of the conversazione. The exhilaration or rather hope fulness of his mood was not unobserved by one of his associates, whose gondola slowly ap proached the palace, while he stood in momen tary hesitation upon the steps, — then pointing the 142 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. expectant gondolier toward the grand canal, wrapt his light cloak about him, and disappeared beneath the aAvning. The aspect of Giovanni would not, indeed, have excited the notice of a less circumspect or interested observer ; but this cavalier was not unread even in the conventional signs of success, and his own mind being filled Avith the image of the lovely heiress of the Monforti honors, it was not surprising that the happy aspect of his friend, as he made his egress frora that lady's portal, should awaken his pass ing and perhaps painful attention. He reraem- bered, also, Giovanni's habitual serious if not sad expression — a characteristic which in boyhood had obtained him the appellation of Signor Preta, and contrasting it with his present cheerfulness, he iraraediately, in accordance with his Italian philosophy, ascribed the rairaculous change to the magic influence of the sarae passion which now possessed his own bosom. And a shade of displeasure darkened his brow, as his former intimate returned his formal greeting with fa miliar affability. Utterly without foundation, however, were the jealous thoughts awakened in the breast of the Signorina Monforti's suitor by this casual meeting. No rival of his was Gio vanni ; not having even seen or sought to see, on the present occasion, the fair denizen of the pal ace. His frequent visits thither, however, were not without an object and an interest. His fa vorite recreation was discussion with Father THE SAD BIRD. 143 Teodoro — the old confessor whom the Duke of Monforti had, many years before, adopted as a friend and counsellor. Giovanni had been early attracted to the old man's side by the fund of story which he pictured out with dramatic effect, to the ardent imagination of the enthusiastic boy; and the fountain which had quenched his child ish thirst for novelty, now ministered to his manly appetite for knowledge, and excited into pleasurable activity, the reflective sentiment, which was the deepest resource of his nature. Giovanni had resided for several years in Padua, and at the then flourishing university of that city had obtained an education beyond that which many of his elders could boast, since it had subserved the acquisition of habits of mind and the formation of tastes of a high and felici tous character. He had been but a few days in his native city ; and his family being at their estate on the borders of the Brenta, the young Venetian freely devoted the hours to reviving his acquaintance with the varied haunts of earlier years. With the exception of the good padre's society, his enjoyments had, thus far, been chiefly of a solitary kind. The converse of this evening had been pecu liarly happy. The young Deltini had passed the morning in attending the regatta sports and church ceremonies. He had entered cheerfully into the spirit of the day — for he was neither un social nor morose, although thoughtfully inclined. 144 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. and ideal in his tendencies. The friend to whose companionship he had trusted, for his chief pleasure, during the festa, deserted him with a hasty apology, to follow in the train of a rich senator whom Giovanni despised for his arro gance. And the youth had passed the remainder of the day in a listless and dissatisfied state of mind, and retired from its festivities with scarcely an inkling of the alacrity which was fresh and eager Avithin him at the morning hour. In a word, the sad recollection which the susceptible as well as the pnrefined must endure, had began to dawn — we should rather say lower — upon him, even from what the unthinking would call the trivial experience of a day. He had felt, almost for the first time, the solitude of a crowd ; he had deeply recognized the selfishness of the world. He was an incipient misanthrope. And yet from communion with a kindred but more mature spirit, he came forth with the bearing of one who had something to live for, and much to hope. His Mentor had vividly suggested to him the idea of philanthropy, and excited a consciousness of personal capacity. A splendid vista was open ing to his mind's eye ; a beautiful spirit was rising from the subsiding tide of past emotion ; a rich vision was shaping itself from the mists of futurity, and the sun of Hope was arraying it in its golden hues. And the outward scene marred not the world of musing ; for the gondola had quietly shot out from among the buildings, and THE SAD BIRD. 145 was gliding, almost alone, upon the moon-lit bay of Venice. The epoch Avhich preceded the downfall of the Adriatic Queen, although it witnessed the gradual resignation of her foreign conquests, was not, for a considerable period, marked by any prorainent indications of decay Avithin the boundaries of the Ocean City. The immense riches which the en joyment of such noble commercial facilities had induced, still fiUed the coffers and displayed itself in the magnificent establishments of the Venetians. And their wealth was probably never more apparent to the stranger, than when the inactivity occasioned by the loss of external advantages, and the cessation of Avar, had pre pared the way for that dire foe against which even the powers of imperial Rome proved un availing — insidious Luxury. No entertainment commanded so high a price in proportion to its intrinsic excellence, or was more universally sought and enjoyed, than rausic. The fondness for the art which characterizes the Italians, was gratified to an extent easily iraagined, at a period when the means of procuring it in perfection, were so abundant as araong the wealthy children of the Sea-Cybele. Many a family Avho could not boast of a casa granda on the Great Canal, or whom circumstances had precluded from sharing the perils and profits of coraraerce, thanked the Virgin for the dolce voce with which one of its 13 146 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. raerabers was endoAved, whereby the handsome support of all of them was secured. Giovanni was not, therefore, surprised to see a small gondola propelled by a single gondolier, pass the silvery track several rods in advance of his prow. The size and equipment of the little bark, and the evident aim of the oarsman to keep at a little distance and in the line of the breeze, prepared him to expect a serenade, for which he was not, indeed, disinclined. His bargemen almost involuntarily slackened the sweep of the oars, and even repressed, as far as possible, their measured breathing, when the first notes were audible. The precise words of the cavatina may not, indeed, be given ; but the idea has been happily erabodied in a more modern form : — Senza pace, e senza speme Con un cor che troppo sente, Io vedro 1' eta ridente Consumarsi nel dolor. Ah ! per mi non v'e pi6 speme, Non v'e pace, non v'anior ! These words, chanted by a voice modulated to the sweetest intonations, found its way directly to the hearts of the listeners. The oars were suffered to trail till the gondola became almost stationary. Giovanni leaned from the little window, and when the song ceased, cleared his gaze to mark distinctly the fair musician. The THE SAD BIRD. 147 inimitable pathos of the vocalisra had raoved him deeply, and he was sensible of a spontaneous and respectful interest in the songstress. He could only discover, howcA^e'r, through the blinds of the opposite gondola, the folds of a white garment. Giving the signal to approach, and throwing a coin into the proffered cap of the gondolier, he bade him ask the SAveet vocalist to corae forth, that he might thank her for a more congenial melody than had blest him for years. That per sonage replied to his request only by a grave movement, intimating the impossibility of acced ing to it; yet there was so much gentleness in the decisive refusal, that even one less kindly disposed than Giovanni could scarcely have been irritated thereby. The raanner of the gondolier, therefore, only served to excite his interest more deeply ; and now, for the first time, he bestowed upon him the attention his appearance was well calculated to awaken. He was somewhat above the medium height, and his figure so well propor tioned and lightly framed as to convey the idea of youth — an impression which his white hair and the bland seriousness of his face at once dis sipated. Instead of the decorated jacket, gay sash, and tasseled cap of the craft, his habili ments were of a dark hue ; and but for his em broidered vest and the evidence his complexion and thin but muscular arras gave of his avocation, one might have taken the old man, as his forra was half concealed in shadow, for a member of 148 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. the present Arraenian fraternity, as readily as for a gondolier of Venice in the days of her pros perity. Having surveyed him a moraent, he was about to renew his request, when he was startled by the hurried -whisper of his own gondolier at the stern. " Pardon, signor," said he, " you are a stranger in Venice — Ave had better away." " Pazienza, Pietro," replied his raaster. "Old man," he continued, addressing the aged oars man, "I would see the melodist beneath the awning." " Thou knowest, signor, the finest warblers have not the richest plumage," quickly again whispered his officious adviser. "Signor mio, this parley is dangerous. St. Mark protect us ! — ah he is off!" "FolloAv!"was the reply; and the gondolas continued side by side. " Speak, I pray you," said the young man ; but the veteran answered only by a sad smile and a gaze of anxious scrutiny directed toward the dis tant and fairy-like city. " He is dumb, signor," said one of the boatmen with obvious awe. " Poverino," exclaimed Giovanni; " friend, I desire to behold thy precious charge, because it would bring pleasure to one farailiar with sorrow, to look upon the only vocalist, among the many whose voices have echoed beneath this sky to day, whose music has proved a balm." THE SAD BIRD. 149 A pause followed, broken only by the gentle splash of the oars, and the muttered invocations of those who manned the gondola of Giovanni. " Father Teodoro was right," at length he mur mured ; " I must learn to be distrusted;" and he threw himself back upon the cushions, with the intention of directing Pietro to abandon the use less pursuit, when a slight noise made hira hesi tate: the oars were siraultaneously lifted, their bearers hastily made the sign of the cross, and the gondolas swayed gently apart, and were at rest. Giovanni noted not these phenomena. That low rattling sound so well known to his ear, Avas now electrical ; — it was produced by slipping aside the blind of the opposite gondola. Thither, as to a revelation of Avonder, his eyes were instantly turned. The face which appeared, produced, at first, simply a strong impression of surprise. He had anticipated the sight of beauty ; and though his quick fancy had but vaguely imaged its details, the half-formed portrait which that active limner had already created, was naturally instinct Avith the peculiar species of loveliness that raost coraraonly greeted him. He had unconsciously endowed his invisible consoler with eyes elo quently dark, and hair of the same hue. But these Italian characteristics he failed to discover. The hair of the sweet melodist was, indeed, dark, but not deeply so, and the eyes were Italian only in their expressiveness — so deep, full and A^ary- ing, that the idea of ascertaining their color never 13* 150 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. obtruded itself upon his mind; all that was dis tinctly realized was their witchery — their mystic and moving power. Giovanni was, at the first glance, only surprised that they were not jet- black, like the eyes of the Padua donnas he had heard sing, or the eyes of his sisters, who were doubtless then singing on the banks of the Brenta. It was not remarkable that fine vocalisra and black eyes were nearly associated in his mind. Fond as he Avas of analyzing his feelings, and predetermined as he had been to make his gaze a searching one, the recurrence of those tones sent a new thrill to his heart, and banished his newly regained self-possession. " Heard I not the name of Father Teodoro, signor?" asked the stranger. " Thou didst, sweet lady." " Dost thou know him ?" " He is my friend — and perchance thine." The inquiry seemed to awaken her to a sense of indiscretion ; — for she compressed her lips, seemed iuAvardly chiding herself, and moved as if about to cut short the interview. Giovanni hast ened to check even the latent intention, and with respectful earnestness, thus addressed her : — "Lady — for it is in vain that thou appearest pursuing an avocation generaUy followed by peasant girls from the shore, or plebeians of the city — lady, let me thank thee for so sweet a serenade, and pardon one who deeply sympa thizes with the sorrowful spirit thy melody indi- THE SAD BIRD. 151 cafes, for asking what motive induces thee thus richly to minister to the by-way pleasure of Vene tians, Avhen thou shouldst grace the innermost circle of their patrician society." — She who was thus addressed, as the kindly Avords Avere uttered, leaned from her gondola, and the clear moonhght rendered beautifully apparent her regular fea tures, calm and finely arched brow — the sweet smile Avhich stole upon her lip, and the grateful tenderness which spoke in her eye, An instant elapsed after he had spoken, when in the sarae touching voice she pronounced the brief but raeaning reply, " The love of my mother." Then gracefully Avaving her hand, she drew back the lattice ; and while Giovanni, completely lost in his OAvn feelings, looked listlessly on — her light barge swiftly sped away in the direction of the nearest shore. As his gondola approached the city, Giovanni emerged from beneath its sable covering, and leaning upon the frame-work, applied hiraself to elicit frora Pietro intelligence which interested him to. a degree of Avhich he was, as yet, quite unaware. "Thou wast wont to be faithful to me, Pietro, when thy fidelity was of little importance, and my favor of no advantage to thee ; and methinks that now thou canst scarcely prove otherwise." " Will the signor question his noble father as to Pietro?" asked the old gondolier, with the confidence of one unjustly suspected. 152 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. " No, Pietro; 't is needless. I did but try thee. But hasten to inform me respecting the myste rious occupants of yon strange bark." "It is little more than a year, signor, since aught was known of them on the Quay or in the Piazza. She is called the Sad Bird of the Adriatic. One of those melancholy serenades which so much delighted you to-night, equally pleased one of the senators who encountered her gondola on his return, about this hour, from Fusina. His efforts to obtain a sight of her were without success, although it is said he proffered a treble salary if she would join his palace band. Many, after this, sought and enjoyed her music ; but all attempts to invade her incognito were avoided from the fact Avhich was promulgated that she Avas performing a vow, being under the special protection of the church. Hence she is rever enced by every one. Her gondola glides about between the Lido and the Quay from sunset till dawn, in weather like this. She never enters the city. Where she abides we know not ; although many say at St. Lazarus. Her buonamanos are very great, and I think this night, for the first time, has her face been seen on these waters. Ah, signor, I tremble for the consequences of this adventure. Nicolo, the most daring gondolier in Venice, is undergoing severe penance for having pledged himself to track out her retreat. St. Mark grant it may bode us no evil." THE SAD BIRD. 153 "Amen," exclaimed Giovanni ; "and remem ber, Pietro, this meeting is a secret" " Deep as mid-ocean, signor." "But the knaves yonder" — pointing to the other bargemen. " Signor, they are mine ! " Pietro had merely imparted the tale which circulated among his fellows. Camilla Goretti, for such was the true name of the " Sad Bird," was the only daughter of a Tuscan lady of noble origin, who had, a few raonths before the date of our story, followed her husband to Venice, to await with him the result of a commercial specu lation — the last of a series of attempts to amend their fallen fortunes. The experiment totally failed ; and the depressed nobleman sank slowly to his grave. The fair mourners had since sojourned in one of the retired islands in the vicinity of Venice. The mother's afflictions and feebleness were obviously subduing her vital powers; and the daughter, in the pure spirit of filial devotion, with the aid of the mute gondolier, Avho had been in the employ of the church, adopted the scheme we have seen she managed so successfully, and by this means ministered to her parent's every comfort, and yet preserved the seclusion so congenial to her sorrowing heart and native delicacy. She had but one relative in the neighborhood, of whose welfare she managed to keep herself informed, but whose society the stricken family had not sought since their 154 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. arrival. He, therefore, reraained ignorant of the abode of his relations, though aware of their mis fortunes. Camilla was consoled by the title and story which the superstitious fancy of the Vene tians had attached to her name, since they threw around her the protecting halo of a sacred mys tery. She was only surprised that the mournful strain Avith Avhich her oppressed feelings forced her to begin her enterprise, should have proved so effective, for she was well aware of the gaiety of the Venetian temperament. She might have understood the charm, however, by reverting to the peculiar interest Avhich th,e human mind takes in deep feeling, however sad — especially Avhen the prevailing language Avhich addresses it is of a superficial kind, as was then the case in Venice. But unacquainted as she was, Avith the cause which rendered her airs so attractive, she rejoiced that it was so, since she could then sing from the heart. Joyful music was but mockery to one who was watching the departure frora the world of the only being with whom she could claim near alliance. "The love of her mother" — the beautiful motive she had designated as her inspiration — she believed the last which would excite her to effort on earth. It was not, how ever, the destiny of her house, that its last hope should be so speedily extinguished. And when a few months passed away, and the orphan hfted herself from the first despair of bereavement, she found one lingering and saving sentiment THE SAD BIRD. I55 shining up, like a gem of light, from the troubled depths of her sOul. Obeying its impulse, after weeks of lone mourning, a new day dawned upon her. But of this we must speak anon. To a common observer, the life of th^ young Deltini, after the return of his family, was of the same tenor as that of the generality of noble Venetians whose youth prohibited their engaging in the state duties of the period, and whose friv olity rendered permanent mental application of any kind equally onerous. Giovanni was often encountered, at the usual hours, on the prome nade beneath the arcades of St Mark, and his gondola occasionaUy seen moored to the steps of the Rialto or at the entrance of one of the supe rior edifices. None of his gay acquaintances, however, were sufficiently interested to notice the regularity and length of his evening excursions ; and if the thoughtfulness of his demeanor, now and then, drew a gaze after him, the spectator, if young, only thought what a marvel it was, that one so recently arrived should not be joyous in festive Venice — and, if old, shrugged meaningly at the idea of the early-involvement in her politi cal intrigues which the anxious though unruffled brow denoted. Giovanni lived only betAveen morning and evening twilight. The setting sun called him to conscious and glad being. The long summer day Avas to hira a season of dream ing; not that the levee, the feast, or the duties of citizenship were neglected ; but their forraal 156 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. routine was formally gone through with, and gladly escaped. But the farewell rays of the orb of day seemed to awake the spirit of the Venetian, as they did, of old, the latent harmonies of Memnon's iraage. With the eagerness of a light-hearted boy, he entered his richly-adorned gondola at sunset, gazed fondly over the waters, and flitted from point to point, seemingly on the wings of caprice. But his erratic course was guided by Love and Prudence. He kept almost ever within sight and hearing of Camilla, and without seeming to do so. Thrice only had he approached sufficiently near, to throw a bunch of orange blossoms upon her awning ; but these ex periments had so evidently induced the venerable gondolier studiously to avoid him, that he long remained contented with nightly hearing, in com mon with others, the melody of the stranger, and watching her gondola till it disappeared in the gloom at midnight, or was veiled by the raorning mist ^ At length Giovanni declared to the alarmed Pietro his determination to seek a second inter view, at all hazards. The evening selected was unfortunate ; gondola after gondola skimraed athwart the bay ; each lingered as the voice of Carailla floated by ; and from each her dumb boatman received tribute tendered Avithout query or comment. Giovanni awaited comparative solitude tUl his patience was exhausted. Then motioning his gondolier to fall into the wake of a THE SAD BIRD. I57 senatorial barge, he was soon within hail of the vocalist. Never did her voice sound so rich and moving. He longed, when it had ceased, to hear the broad sweep of the oars before him ; but they fell gently, as if beguiled by the strain ; and look ing around, Giovanni beheld the calm surface of the water dotted Avith various craft, and heard the long nervous strokes of the dumb man's paddle. "Restate!" he exclaimed, but the skiff was soon contiguous to a long line of advancing prows. Giovanni, in despair, could only hurl his signet ring through Camilla's lattice, before twenty eyes were marking his movements. Weeks passed away, and the mysterious melody which had charmed Venice Avas hushed. No one beheld the sacred frequenter of the Adriatic waters; and conjecture- was busy in Aveaying fables which should explain, without accormting for her disappearance. The gondoliers doubted not that her vow Avas completed, and that she had gone horae ; many sagely suggested that she had descended into a marine abode ; and not a fcAv believed that her mystic bark was riding, under the protection of St. Theodore, upon other and far distant seas. But all that was known was the fact of her departure ; and like every event of joy or sorrow of terrestrial occurrence, Avhen wondered at a little time, it was seemingly uncared for and forgotten. "Now Heaven grant that my learned cousin be not fearful of crossing the Bridge of Sighs to- 14 158 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. night!" said the vivacious heiress of Monforti, as she encountered Giovanni in the corridor. " And why should my fair Ellena dream of such a catastrophe?" inquired the youth. " For want of any more probable way of ac counting for thy sober visage," she replied, in a rallying tone. "Thou art ever thus sportive, car a," he re turned, observing her with interest ; "Felice voi ! " " Come to the saloon, after consulting yon rever end oracle, Giovanni, arid perchance my guests or poor self can cheer even thee." He smiled his thanks,- and passing on, entered the cabinet of Father Teodoro. " My son," said the priest, after greeting his visitor, " knowest thou how it fares with Fosca rini now?" " The fever has left him, I am told," answered Giovanni. " Grazie a Deo ! " ejaculated the old man, as he drew aside the heavy folds of a curtain, and admitted the chastened light and soothing breeze of even-time into the apartment; "but Giovanni, thou art ill," he continued, regarding the flushed countenance and troubled expression of his young friend ; " beware that thou art not added to the list" " Only fatigued. If 1 remember right, Ave were speaking yesterday of sympathy. Father, I have thought rauch, in the night-watches, of thy theory. One is not to expect to be under- THE SAD BIRD. I59 stood by the multitude; some will be even misin terpreted by the few, tliou sayest I know how different thou art from thy brethren in many things, and therefore will I venture a question : Is Avhat is called love-at-first-sight, one of the dreams thou spakest of?" . " What is thus called, Giovanni, is often but a fancy." " But is there a foundation for such an experi ence in the soul?" " My son, there is deep affinity between spirits, even when humanly embodied. When two beings thus pre-united raeet on earth, they spon taneously recognize their unity ; and this is love in its purity and poAver." " And, father, suppose, frora the intervention of circumstances, they follow not out the intima tion ; suppose they remain disunited, dissev ered?" "They irretrievably Avrong themselves; their being wants completeness ; there remains a A'^oid in their bosoms ; wealth and honors raay occupy, qualified afiection amuse, but neither can satisfy them." " But, father, are the indications sure?" " Infallible to the unperverted ; not indistinct fo any who can feel or will think." Filled as was the breast of Deltini with the spirit of raeditation, and necessary as repose had becorae to his languid though fevered frarae, he was mindful of his cousin's invitation, and 160 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. wished not to leave her palace without indicating at least his remembrance of her wishes. Yet was he greatly indisposed for general society, and hoped, by stealing in at a side door, to hold a moment's parley with her, and retire. The first sound which struck his ear, as he entered unob served, was his father's voice. He hesitated, and saAA'' that a group, among Avhicli he recognized a brother of the sick Foscarini, and several senators, were engaged in a conference of great apparent interest "Yes, signor," said the elder Deltini, addressing the latter personage, " Giaicomo's con valescence is truly a subject of congratulation among all who hold Venice dear. The time is coming when she will need the unimpaired energy of all her children. In the strength of her nobUity at home, we are to trust, and not in the extent of her external possessions. With more care than ever should we consolidate the patri cian power. I am already negociatirig an aUi ance for Giovanni, which even thou, signor, wilt deem no sraall effort of state policy." The individual most interested in this newly- broached design, paused only to note the compla cency and determination Avith which the duty of the parent was thus lost in that of the patriot, and then hastened to cool his throbbing temples in the night air, and still, if possible, the tumult in his bosom. * * * * The gray light of early morning revealed the kneeling -figure of an aged servant of the THE SAD BIRD. 161 cross, with his face buried in the drapery of a couch, on which one, stricken with disease, was restlessly extended, in the chamber of a Venetian palace. " It is as I feared," said the priest, rising. "Giovanni, thou hast the infection !" " Art thou still beside me, father ? " " Yes, my son, and if earnest prayers can carry thee safely through this trial, thou art safe." " Desire it not, father, as thou lovest me. Hear me ere this heated brain refuse its just office. Life is not desirable to Giovanni Deltini. I love ; but days, weeks, months have past, and these eyes have not beheld the only being they can fondly contemplate. The weariness of dis appointment has induced this malady. The same hour that revealed to rae the justice of ray passion, assured me it had been cherished in vain. Thy blessing and thy prayers, father, before this creeping lethargy overpowers me. I have thus spoken, that one may shed a tear over the tomb of the Deltinis for its ncAV occupant, who know- eth something of the woes which reconcile him to death." From the deep sleep that succeeded the attack of this peculiar Levantine epidemic, the sole heir of the honors and wealth of the Deltini family awoke with a degree of physical energy, and an absence of unfavorable syraptoras, which war ranted the medical attendants in asserting that the prospect of his recovery was flattering. Their 14* 162 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. disappointment, however, was extreme, at find ing no apparent improvement, after the lapse of several hours. The recurrence of strength and expressiveness, which had occurred at a similar stage in other instances, appeared not in" this. Giovanni, indeed, gave evidence of consciousness, but the morbid apathy of sicliuess was alarming ly obvious. — Meantime the sudden illness of his child, the alternations of hope and fear, the raourn ful tone of the invalid's ravings, and the settled indifference to life which he evinced in lucid in tervals — the course of the raalady — the expected catastrophe — all combined to work a revolution in the father's heart. He knew his son for the first time. He heard from Father Teodoro the last rational Avords he had uttered, and solemnly pledged himself to consult only the peace of his child, should he recover. Of this, hoAvever, there seemed less and less probability. And the afternoon of the third day since the cessation of the fever, found the inmates of the palace in the same state of quiet but deep despondency. The affectionate ^jacZ/-e Avas in attendance while Count Deltini slept. He had musingly watched, for an - hour, the play of the cTiequered hght upon the variegated and marble-like floor, Avhen the voice of Pietro caused him to raise his head. "Fa ther," said the old servant, "there is a youth in the hall — a Paduan, I think — Avho would fain look upon the face of our young master. Vainly THE SjVD BiRI). ]^63 have I told him that he is nigh unto death, and cannot be seen. He demands admittance as a near friend of Signor Giovanni." "It matters little," replied the priest ; the poor youth will soon be beyond the reach of disturb ance. Let the Paduan enter." So intent was the afflicted confessor upon his own thoughts, that he was again lost in reverie in the lapse of a few raoments, so that the visi tor's step first aroused him to a consciousness of his presence. Notwithstanding the obscurity of the apartment, and the sadness of his spirit, the priest was struck Avith the gracefulness of the stranger's mien, and the delicate contour of his form. He bowed as the father turned toward him, but without doffing the cap of black velvet which shaded his face. Stealing, with an easy but sub dued air, around the head of the couch, and taking a taper from the table, he slipped upon it a jewelled ring, and gently separating the curtains, passed il through upon the pillow, directly before the eyes of the sick man. The alarmed father had raoved forward to check the proceeding, but was startled by a sudden movement and excla mation ; and with no little surprise beheld his patient raise hiraself on his elbow, and glance inquiringly about the apartment. " Thank Heaven ! my son, thou appearest somewhat like thyself ; what dost thou desire? " " Father, are we alone?" 164 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. " There is a young man present, one of thy Paduan friends; but thou art not able to con- " Good father, leave us, for a moment" His careful and devoted friend hesitated ; but re-assured by the bright gleam of intelligence visi ble in his eye, he entered an adjoining oratory, there to invoke the blessing of Heaven upon the reviving son of his adoption. TJie sound of the count's earnest voice recalled him to the sick room. And there a scene present ed itself, which would have been rife with inspi ration to a true votary of the rainboAV art. The invalid was in a half-sitting posture, his cheek slighUy colored, and his brilliant eye bent upon the rich tresses of one who kneeled beside the couch. His father stood by, glancing benig- nantly from one to the other figure. Upon the damask covering lay the taper, upon which glis tened the signet ring of the Deltinis. And the flush of sunset threw over the dark furniture, rich paintings, and polished floor, a variety of mel lowed tints, which enhanced without generalizing the combined effect The " Sad Bird of the Adriatic" had folded her wings in despair, and brooded over her desolate nest. The mother whose love sustained her was no more ; and ere she followed her to her long rest, she went forth to behold once again the being of her dreams. Hoping to accomplish her object without being THE SAD BIRD. 165 known, she sought him, in disguise, in the public places of the city ; but learning his sickness, and not doubt^ing its fatal issue, she hastened to as sure him how speedy Avould be their reunion. She had proved an angel of mercy. Count Del tini had joined the hands of the lovers. And on the succeeding moment of delight, the priest had intruded. " It is a vision ! " he exclaimed — "the daughter of my poor sister, and the son of my adoption!" He read an explanation in their eyes. " My chUdren," he continued, " my prayers are granted, but no part Avas allotted me in their fulfilment" " Father, thou errest," exclaimed Giovanni ; " thy lecture on the affinity of spirit revealed to me my love." "And, uncle," said Camilla, " at the name of Father Teodoro, I slipped the blind of ray gondola." It was the unhappiness of Giovanni to behold, and of his immediate descendants more nearly to realize the Avane of Venetian glory. Yet many of his brother patricians, with less than his patriotic sensibility, as they walked away the night hours in their gorgeous halls, lamenting the vain sacri fice of their most individual prerogatives to ambi tious policy, ardently longed for the lot of Deltini ; for the grief of the citizen was neutralized by the happiness of the man ; — and many an hour of joy was won to him by the melody and companion ship of the then blithe Bird of the Adriatic. THE ROSE-COLORED PACKET. ' Whom he had sensibility to love,^ Ambition to attempt, and skill to win." Soothingly played the sunset breeze over the sleeping sea, laden with the perfume from the orange groves of Genoa. As the mellow light gilded the palace-roofs and domes of the old city, its aspect, to the imaginative spectator who gazed distantly from the ocean, was not unlike an an cient and splendid amphitheatre, with golden battlements, an azure canopy, and an arena of polished emerald. The quiet waters of the bay Avore an air of unwonted solitude; and but a sin gle vessel Avas moored in a position v/hich in dicated a speedy departure. This was a brigan- tine, of beautiful proportions — evidently one of the comparatively small, but singularly efficient craft, which supplied Britain Avith the finer fabrics of southern Europe. If the eye lingered uncon sciously upon the symmetrical exterior of the " Sea-Nymph," a glance at her occupants and equipments could not but speedily yield to a gaze 168 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. of earnestness and pleasure. The most promi nent figure discernible upon her deck, was that of a young man clad in raariner's vestraents, the quality of which indicated superiority of rank not raore distinctly than did their perfect adapta tion serve to discover superiority of form and strength. There was enough in the stranger's appearance to denote his English origin ; but other characteristics as readily suggested to an intelligent observer, that circumstances of birth or experience had modified the peculiarities so obvious in the sons of the north. A certain nervousness of temperament and latent warmth of feeling, were discoverable in the natural lan guage of the seaman ; and as the light puffs of air, ever and anon, threw back the side-locks from his uncovered head, the disciple of a beautiful but misinterpreted science Avould have noticed the cause of the bland complacency which rested on his countenance, as his eye roved over the surrounding scene. The breadth of the brow indicated a large endowment of ideality, to the delight of AA'-hich that fairy-like picture was now silently ministering. The mother of Captain Roberto Avas a native of Spain ; and neither the qualities of his Albion father, Avhich he largely inherited, nor a boyhood spent araid the fogs of the island, had sufficed to eradicate the southern leaven from his nature. Earlier, by several years, than ordinary prudence would warrant, he had been entrusted with a large interest in the THE ROSE-COLORED PACKET. 169 trade in which he was then engaged. For him, it had many and peculiar charms. His latent affinity with the region of his mother's nativity found free scope during his frequent sojourns in the cities and campagna of the Mediterranean coast ; and in every port there were those Avho welcomed the " Sea-Nymph " and her gallant comraander, with a greeting such as seldom cheers the arrival of foreign merchantmen. "I think the lad has started, yonder," said the captain. " Ay, ay, sir," replied his second in command, turning his eye towards the shipping. " A slacker boy than. Zed would have lingered longer on his last land errand." In a few moments the boat, propelled gently on by the skilful arm of the young sailor, touched the vessel's side, and he stood, hat in hand, be fore his commander. "All's right," observed that functionary, tak ing a small file of papers from the boy, and has tily glancing at their contents; "and had ye brought a good breeze with ye, Zed, we would see how much nearer the Straits the dawn would find us." " Your honor knows that Zed would ever be the bearer of pleasant things ;" and drawing from his vest a small pink packet, he presented it, with unusual obeisance, whereby — as the quick eye of Roberto was not slow to detect — the lad 15 170 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. hoped to conceal the arch smile that was playing on his lip. " Whence this ? " exclaimed the captain, with an air of surprise. " It was left at the consignee's, an hour since, sir ;" and so saying, he retreated among his messmates. Nicholas Vanblunt, the mate of the ' " Sea- Nyraph," possessed the nuraerous solid excellen cies which characterized his Dutch progenitors. Indeed, if the truth must be told, the prudent partners of Roberto had connived to secure the old raan the berth he enjoyed— deeming his cau tion and judicious timidity well fitted to neutral ize the action of the captain's more mercurial nature ; and they were wont, in private converse, to yclep Vanblunt the ballast of their enterprises, and Roberto the sails ; — the one ever advocating steadiness, and preferring perfect immobility to the least risk ; the other striving to catch every breeze of fortune, and carry some canvass even in a tempest. One quickening impulse, however, occasionally wakened into temporary vivacity the energies of Nicholas; this was that restless appetite, of mother Eve memory, denominated curiosity; and, had one seen the start and the gaze, which the phenomenon of the rose-colored packet gave rise to, he would have thought that the Netherlands had suddenly become visible over the bow of the brigantine. The effect THE ROSE-COLORED PACKET. I7I which the epistle produced upon the demeanor of Roberto, was well calculated still farther to ex cite the inquisitive spirit of his mate. He dwelt long and curiously upon the superscription; and the listless manner in which he broke the seal, was strongly contrasted with the expression of intense interest which its contents aAvakened. He read ; then Avalked the deck and read again ; now he turned his eyes intently upon some in land object, and now surveyed, with anxious cir cumspection, the hues of the horizon ; he smiled as the breeze evidently freshened, and glanced complacently over the garniture of his vessel ; then resuming his walk, he humraed musingly a Spanish air, tUl the flutter of the paper seemed to awaken his mind from its abstraction ; once again he read, then carefully refolding and de positing it in his bosom, he murmured, yet in a tone of resolution — " It shall be done ! " "What, sir?" ejaculated the impatient Nich olas, at his elbow. " A trifle, in the way of business on shore. Harkee, Mr. Vanblunt, send Zed, with the small boat and two lads, alongside ; loosen the sheets and make all ready; in five minutes after my return. We must be off." Roberto hastened to the cabin ; and Nicholas, having given orders agreeable to his instructions, returned to his post, determined, on the captain's re-appearance, to learn the occasion of these un expected movements. 172 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. " Any news of import ? " he asked. " No, Mr. Vanblunt, not a word." " Are the invoices all on board, sir ? " " Yes ; you can examine them below." " But, captain " "What?" stopping and looking up, as he de scended the vessel's side. " The — the rose-colored packet, sir ? " " Oh ! I will tell you all about it." " Do, sir," winningly exclairaed Nicholas, lean ing over in fond expectation. " On ray return," dryly added Roberto, as he dropped into the boat, and, in an urgent though low tone, bade the oarsraen " pull away." Before the disappointed mate could rally from his dis comfiture, their long and vigorous strokes had borne their commander to a distance which pre cluded any but a vociferous renewal of the interview. The business which thus unexpectedly called on shore the captain of the " Sea-Nymph," Avas of that species with regard to which experience had taught him it was well to postpone consult ing his reflecting brother officer. He made it a rule, indeed, to take counsel with that worthy on all occasions of mutual concernraent; but chose to exercise his private judgment in fixing the time for presenting certain subjects to the vete ran's consideration — having often found his opin ion, on questions of expediency, less troublesome after than before the said questions were experi- THE ROSE-COLORED PACKET. I73 mentally settled. Accordingly, he already antici pated many long discussions with Nicholas, relative to the rose-colored packet, but not till his own view of the matter had been practically adopted. Leaving the anxious Hollander to superintend the preparations for the speedy departure of the brigantine, let us follow her small boat and learn what is writ on the rosy scroll, against which the Anglo-Spaniard's noble heart is beating with be nevolent expectancy. The delicacy of the char acters betray the hand of woraan ; and the elegant Italian, in which the epistle is couched, evince more than ordinary cultivation. In homely English, it would read thus : " To the captain ofthe Sea-Nymph : " The writer of this has been, almost frora her earliest recollection, a denizen of the convent of St. Agatha. She has gazed often from the tower above, forth upon the beautiful city, and out upon the bright sea ; she has heard the festal cries of the Genoese, and the song of the mariners from the bay ; she has noted the glad faces of the young gentry and the happy countenances of the peasants, as they have passed along the adjacent road ; and these things have awakened in her soul the desire of freedom. The thought has been cherished till it has become a passion and a necessity. She has read much of the honor and generosity of Englishmen. Thrice has she 15 • 174 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. marked thy distant vessel ; but, until this hour, knew not by what title to address thee. She now appeals to the captain of the Sea-Nymph for deliverance and protection. Three hours after vespers, a blue cord will be dropped from the third window of the farther wing of the convent. Wilt thou be there to rescue an involuntary nun? and shall the Sea-Nymph bear her to the free shores of England ? In nomine Dei Patri, et Filii, et Spiritus Sancti, thou art invoked to com passionate Viola Donatelli." The long, delicious tAvUight, peculiar to south ern latitudes, Avas fast yielding to the deeper shades and more solemn effulgence of night. The lovely daughters of Genoa again welcomed their evening pastimes. The cheerful hum of the conversazione, the rich music of Italian song, and even the low notes of a guitar, ever and anon echoed along the terrace-groves, or stole out from among the garden-shrubbery of the street of palaces. A day of uncoramon sultriness had ren dered the cool and tranquil even-tirae doubly grateful. Yet the new-born breeze, sweetly musical as it was within the city and by the sea side, stirred, Avith something of wildness, amid the rank grass that clustered about the founda tion of a massive pile which arose loftily, beyond the suburbs. Its anterior wall cast a gigantic shadow over the solitary fields ; and nought but the white habiliments would have betrayed a THE ROSE-COLORED PACKET. I75 figure, which, in a crouching attitude, Avas slowly following the line of its base. Suddenly it seemed to spring forward, and presently the gleam of a lantern revealed the captain of the "Sea-Nymph" hastening toAvards Zed, Avho was drawing from araong the vines the tesselated ex tremity of a silken rope. To this, a light but strong ladder of cordage was attached and draAvn upward. Roberto soon felt the cords tremble in his grasp, as he endeavored to steady them. " Corragio!" he whispered, as a light female form dropped gently among the weeds at his feet, and knelt down, with folded arms and an upward gaze, as if Avitless of his presence. He quietly raised the lantern, and its feeble rays fell on fea tures of that indescribable saint-like beauty with which the traveller occasionally raeets, among the religieuse of the continent. The freshness of youth combined with the sacred ardor of devo tion to vivify their expression, and the excite ment of the occasion tended to deepen the impression which the vision — for such it seeraed — made upon the ardent mind of the young seaman. He inwardly rejoiced, yet with some thing of awe, that the enterprise was undertaken, and felt nerved for its fulfilment Zed suddenly pointed to the ladder, and to his dismay, the captain beheld another and seemingly decrepit female slowly descending. His exclamation re called the nun from her reverie. Rising, she 176 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. anxiously surveyed the countenance of Roberto ; then sofdy murmured — "Viola confides in one above and thee. Fear not; yonder comes the only other being whom I can call friend on earth; finding me resolute, she has determined to accom pany me." Roberto was sadly perplexed at this infor mation ; but his cogitations on the subject were quickly interrupted by a cry of alarm, and the next moment the unfortunate donna fell groaning at the foot of the ladder. Snatching a cloak from the arms of Zed, he threw it around the fair being beside him, and lifting her on his shoulder, ran with wonderful rapidity, followed by the sailor-boy. The cries of the fallen dame echoed through the solitude. Roberto pressed onward in silence, nor paused till he reached the last point whence the convent was discernible ; then gazing momentarily back, he beheld lights gleaming from twenty windows, and fancied the cries of pursuers, bOrne on the rising wind. Hadst thou, gentle reader, while rusticating, at a subsequent period, at one of the most beautiful villages in the vicinity of London, unexpectedly entered the drawing-room of the accoraplished Madarae Clarissa Roberto, thou wouldst have seen, among that lady's fair-haired and blue-eyed daughters, a floAA-'er not less pleasing to contem plate, though evidently exotic. But it Avould be THE ROSE-COLORED PACKET. 177 only by patient attention, that, in the cheerful and Avomanly beauty of the stranger, thou couldst discover any especial semblance to the lovely apostate who, three years before, prayed for for giveness beneath the walls of St. Agatha. Yet were it thy privilege to linger beside her- — to mark the sweet naivete Avith Avhich she uttered the accents of the Anglo-Saxon, kindle her ex- pressiA'eness by appeals to her enthusiasm, or drink the melody of her song ; when the wand of the enchanter was no longer visibly swayed, thou wouldst learn, by the rapid flight of tirae and the lingering of the soul's glow, that thou hadst been within the raagic circle of Italian loveliness. Who can wonder, then, that Madarae Clarissa's noble nephew, on every return voyage, tarried in the noisy metropolis only long enough to take every requisite care of his gallant bark, and then hastened to practice la bella lingua Italiana Avith his charming protege ? It may be thought singu lar that one who so narrowly escaped the conse quences of a vow, should ever again voluntarily assume such a responsibility. Yet, if the records of the parish say truly, not many years since, Viola Donatelli did religiously promise, through all the v^icissitudes of this our world, to "love, honor and obey" Francisco Roberto. Prosperity has followed the captain of the " Sea-Nymph," and that title is displaced by a nobler; happiness dwells with the nun of St, 178 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. Agatha, and that appellation is no longer hers. Yet, often do their wondering children look up, frora the sports of infancy, to raark the grateful tears with which their parents speak of the Rose- Colored Packet, THE FLORENTINE. CHAPTER I. ' AA'ilt tliou be gone t Sweet Valentine, adieu ! Wish me partaker in thy happiness When thou dost meet good hap ; and, in thy danger, If ever danger do environ thee. Commend thy grievance to my holy prayers. For I will be thy beadsman, Valentine." " Let us forth, Anina," said Antonio to his betroth ed, who was seated, in a pensive attitude, near the window, and feigning to watch the coraing on of evening over the sky, though the tears which filled her eyes might have betrayed, to a nearer observer, that the object of her vision was medi tative and within. — "Let us forth, and if the eve of parting cannot be joyous, our sadness will not be increased if its hours be passed in rambling where Ave have been wont, at this very hour, to yield up our spirits, in glad unison, to the blest influences of nature. Let me once more renew the brightest associations of my being, in behold ing, with the clear perception of expectant separa- 180 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. tion, the river's bank, whereon I vented, in spor tive glee, the gay spirit of boyhood ; the square where, with the rausic of the Pergola just dying on my ear, I have so often paused, in the stUl air of midnight, and fancied that the old statues moved in the gloom, — and the garden, ay, the garden-mount, whence we have gazed beyond the cypress grove and the river, and seen the sun go down behind the hills ; in these scenes, which I ara so soon to exchange for a strange country, let us linger away the moments, till the hour approaches which calls rae from Florence and from thee ! " They were soon threading the gaily-peopled walk of the Cacine, their desultory converse or silent musings being, ever and anon, interrupted by the passing salutation of numerous acquain tances. Occasionally, too, a friend, mindful of Antonio's approaching departure, would leave the party whose companionship was enlivening the evening promenade, accompany them for a space, and then, with a buotia sera, uttered with more than usual tenderness, and that expressive though silent indication of delicate sympathy which dis tinguishes the natural language of the Tuscans, glide away from the thoughtful pair. They ex perienced a sensation of relief when the shades of evening advanced, and the walk becarae more solitary. At that season, even the kindly words of friendship disturbed rather than solaced. The moonlight fell in soothing luxuriance upon the THE FLORENTINE. IQl almost inaudible ripple of the Arno, as they ap proached one of the bridges Avhich span its waters. There are memorable instances of effect produced by the combination and mutual influence of na ture and art. One of the most beautiful imagina ble now, familiar though it was, arrested the attention of Anina and her companion. The bridge of Santa Trinita, in the light which noAV revealed it, seemed suspended by the spell of fancy, rather than supported by deeply laid pillars and massiA^e workmanship. So symmetrically and gracefully are hung its arches, that the idea of weight is banished from the mind of the spec tator. Its aerial form, antiquated hue, and white escutcheons, about which the weeds of age are clustered, form an image that serves admirably to relieve the aspect of the heavier architecture around. They paused, and, leaning upon the parapet, Anina broke the silence which they had almost involuntarily suffered to prevail. "I know not how it is, Antonio, but this spot seems singularly associated with the prominent shades of ray des tiny. Do you reraember the story my old nurse tells ? One evening she was conveying me home from the Porta Fedriano, where we had been to see the cavalcade of the Duke ; we did not leave the house of Signor Andrea, from the Avindow of which we had seen the pageant, until the crowd had quite dispersed. Yet the Lung' Arno was quite thronged, and several gentlemen on horse- 16 182 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. back were reining in their steeds here upon the bridge, and endeavoring to make their way harm lessly through the throng. Poor Bianca was hurrying on to avoid danger — when I persisted in stopping to drop a crazia into the old poverino's hat. Meantime the tumult increased ; a carriage, in addition to the crowd, now blocked up the way ; the horses became raore restive, and voluraes of sparks flashed frora the polished flags beneath their feet. Bianca, murmuring our old proverb, uomini sopra cavalli, sepolti sono aperti,* drew rae frora the expectant beggar, and was hastily carry ing me forward, when the carriage started, and the Count P.'s horse, notwithstanding the curb, sprang after it, and threw Bianca and her unruly 'burden upon the pavement. The Count instantly dismounted, and leaving hishorse with a groom, hastened toward rae. Bianca was more alarmed than injured ; but I was taken up insensible. At this sight he seeraed deeply distressed, and taking rae in his arras, bore rae directly to the Caffe di Colonna. The restoratives applied restored me ; and, to the relief of the Count, I Avas soon on ray way home, forgetting, in contemplating the comfits he had given me, the slight contusion which the accident had occasioned. You know the consequence of this event — how the kind- hearted man visited us the next day, and through * " When men are on horseback, the graves are opened " — alluding to the liability to accident incident to the smooth pavement of the city. THE FLORENTINE. 183 his influence with the Duke, obtained for my brother the office which has since so comfortably supported us. Nor is this all, ray Tonino; here, on this bridge, at such an hour" — — " Were our vows first plighted ! "—exclairaed Antonio ; " and, O Anina, let the memory of all we are to each other come over us anew, uoav that from this green spot of life we gaze over the desert of absence. Strange ! alas, how strange, that necessity thus forces me forth from ray home ; and such a home ! Before I knew thee, Anina, I knew not myself The external, the exciting, the Avhirl of passion — this was what I called life. The fountains around me were per verted by the lips they would have refreshed. Nature ! — her voice was lost. Music ! — I loved only her most tragic inspiration ; the pathos — the soft, stealing melody which delights me now, then but irritated and inflamed. I was a wan derer in a wild scene, such as Salvator loved to depict; a light step aroused rae — I looked up — and in the light of thine eye a new world opened ; — the peaceful yet deep sense of joy Avhicb. comes over the soul when pondering on one of the Ma donnas of Raffaelo, played around my heart, and threw the rosy quiet of a suraraer evening over the restless, deep within. Wonder not that I hasten frora thee with forebodings — that I raourn that my day of peace is so soon to be superseded by one of lone travailing — for thou knowest my impetuous spirit must unfold itself Thy raeraofy, 184 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. the hope of return, confidence in the love of such a heart — will such consolations ever fail or disap point me?" Anina had listened in the attitude and with the expression of one in whose mind a prevailing sentiment precluded the admission of minor emo tions. She had lifted her gaze from the glittering eleraent below as he proceeded ; the constrained sraile, and disposition to withdraAv her own and his thoughts from dismal anticipations, which had pervaded her manner at the commencement of the intervicAV, now gave place to an expression indicative of high purpose. Her Tuscan hat shaded without obscuring her features, as she stood erect in the full light of the careering lumi nary. She was above the ordinary height of the women of her country, and her figure, when in repose, might have suggested to the experienced eye of a continental sojourner, the idea of a more northern extraction than she boasted. Her dress, too, with the exception of the hat, bore no dis tinctive indications whereby a stranger could have directly surmised that she claimed affinity with the denizens of the Etrurian Athens. But one glance at the countenance would have dis pelled the illusion of the casual observer. The complexion, the hair, and, above all, the pecuhar depth and expressive fire of the eye, proclaimed Anina a legitimate daughter of Italy. "Antonio," she replied, " there is nothing but he thought of what we shall gain by this separa- THE FLORENTINE. 185 tion, that, with the blessing of the Virgin, enables me to think of it calmly. I feel that ray presence has proved but a sad inspiration to your pencil ; and when I reraeraber what was prophesied of your genius, but a year since, I feel almost as if expiating a sin in resigning you to the full influ ence of absence from everything Avhich wUl ener vate the energy, or distract the attention of your mind; then I feel it will pour itself forth in the exercise of your art; and who may predict the result? This — this must comfort me, when left to abide ceaseless opposition, while ray Tonino is winning afar what will satisfy the vicAvs of others, though it cannot alter ray own ; there, if ever he gives a thought, amid his busy hours, to — to " and at the mere idea of her lover's for getfulness, she passed, Italian-like, from a high and womanly seeming, to the distrustful sadness of a child; — she abruptly paused, and the tears flowed freely. It was now for Antonio to rise to a higher strain of feeling. With the ardent gesture and impassioned utterance characteristic of his coun try, he soon unburthened his oppressed heart, and changed the mood ofthe listener. "And now, Anina," he continued, "let us move home ward. Forget not, twice every month, to place in the hands of our faithful Ipolito tidings of your Avelfare, which will steal like rays of sun light across my solitary pathway ; — nor shall the old raan fail to bring thee tokens of the fidelity and experience of thy betrothed. Let us go." 16* 186 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. They left the bridge ; and the first glimmering of dawn found Antonio sitting, accoutred as a traveller, his passport beside him, his trunk at his feet, and himself inditing yet another addio to one who, at that moment, was looking tearfully frora her casement, starting at the distant rumbling of a vettura rolling along the deserted streets, and as it died aAvay, breathing a prayer for the safe return of her lover. CHAPTER II. ' It cannot take away the grace of life. The comeliness of look that virtue gives, Her port erect with consciousness of truth. Her rich attire of honorable deeds ; — It cannot lay its hand on these, no more Than it can pluck its brightness from the sun. Or, with polluted finger — tarnish it." Fbom the little raetropolis of Tuscany — the birth place of Dante, Boccacio, and Machiavelli, let us pass to an abiding-place of raan less blessed by contiguity to the grand and beautiful in nature, and frora araong its multitudinous representatives of humanity, seek out and note the few individ uals with whom our story is connected. The first scene breathes not the air of the outer and THE FLORENTINE. 187 common London world. It is a richly furnished chamber ; the quiet that reigns, and every little arrangement, suggests, at once, that it is the chamber of sickness; but the abandoned couch and the attitudes of the occupants, assure us that the crisis of disease has passed, or is yet to come. Upon a rich arm-chair reclines one whose gray hair and slightly furrowed brow speak either of a long or laborious life — perhaps of both ; — the compressed lip arid unyielding raanner in which the head accoraraodates itself to its corafortable support, bespeaks a pertinacity of will, a firraness of purpose, that even bodily weakness has failed to subjugate. At a light and exquisitely Avrought table beside the convalescent — for such he is — sits one of those beings which, in certain moods, a meditative man would rather gaze upon than aught else in the wide world. Mary EUmsley might not be called what is generally understood by the term beauty ; she Avas too small in figure, too mild in manner, too thoughtful in expression, to win the admiration of fashion's votary, or at tract the attention of the amateur observer of the world's inhabitants. And yet there was some thing in her very gentleness, something in her full blue eye, fair complexion, and light tresses, "brown in the shadow and gold in the sun," con trasted with the mourning habiliments in which she was clad, that insensibly charmed. A lover of Wordsworth's poetry, a partaker of Words worth's spirit, would have felt spontaneously and 188 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. irresistibly interested as he beheld her. At a slight raovement of the sick man, indicating his revival from the half-sleeping state in which he had remained for some time, she arose, and step ping, fairy-like, about the room, seemed to busy herself in some little preparations for the invalid's comfort ; but, noAv and then, she would steal an anxious glance toward hira ; and when she saw that his eye was following her motions, she ab ruptly returned to her seat, and again bent over the book upon which she had previously been intent. But her gaze Avas fixed, and it was plain her raind was busied inwardly ; and the subject of her musing could not have been altogether pleasing, for her fingers mechanically thrummed upon the table, and twice she opened her lips to speak, and then, with an embarrassed and con scious air, checked herself At length, in a deci sive manner, she closed the volume and placed.it away with some little care, and breathing a half- suppressed sigh, drew her chair nearer to the cheerful grate, and looked up to the face of the invalid. " You need not grieve, Mary, for the troubles of the heroine of that tale," said the old man; " you know, as a matter of course, all must turn out well at last." "All is Avell with her now," she replied, " for the groundless suspicions of man cannot harm him who is favored of God ; and so ought Micol to feel, and therein be comforted." THE FLORENTINE. 189 "An odd name that for a heroine, Mary; but novelists must be sadly puzzled, now-a-days, both for names and subjects." " The author of the volume I have been read ing depended little upon such externals. His whole mind is given to developing his characters and plot, and polishing the language in Avhich both are portrayed; at least so Mr. 1 mean, so I believe ; — for, in truth, I have not read enough yet to understand perfectly." "Pray, what is this wonderful book? I thought you were in the midst of the new novel Lady Emily sent this morning." " I was trying to read something I began some time ago, father, but which I was prevented from going on with by circumstances — by your unex pected illness, I should say ; but I can't get along with it noAv ; I could not Avell understand it, and perhaps if I did, I could not have read" " What could n't you understand, child ; what was you trying to read?" " Alfieri's Saul, father." "If you had comprehended it, why could you not read?" " My tears blinded rae, father." " I really begin to believe, Mary, that I have been to blame in allowing you to share so long my confinement ; you need the fresh air, child. What with our late affliction, (and here the old gentleman brushed away a tear,) and the dull duty of attending on a sick old man's humors, 190 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. you are scarcely yourself, girl, — crying over a story you do not understand ! — Nonsense " " Oh, father, you mistake ; it was n't the story that made me Aveep ; but I read on a little way, and came to a difficult part, and then I — I thought" " The meaning Avould corae by your crying? " "No, father, I thought who would tell me all about it, and thinking of that made me weep." " Worse and worse ; Avho do you mean? who would explain ?" " Mr."^and she looked fearfully up — "Mr. Lino, father." The pale cheek of the convalescent was now sallow ; his features Avorked impatiently, and he sat erect " Did I not forbid you to breathe the name of that accursed man ? " he fiercely ex claimed. " How can you speak of him without a shudder, when you reraember the peril into Avhich his villanous arts brought me ? Have you no feeling for your own kin? Can you look upon me, but just escaped from a violent and awful death, and not feel?" " Father, he may be innocent," Mary sobbed out. •r. "May be hinocent? You saw the cunning sraile with which he proffered the treacherous gift ; you heard the professor declare that he had detected poison; you Avitnessed the convulsions, the death-like stupor " THE FLORENTINE. 191 " Oh, speak not of thera, my lather ! But had we not better ask him about it? I am sure he knew not" "Mary," he continued more calmly, "you are but a child ; I will once more explain, for your satisfaction, the reasons of ray conduct, and then 1 shall expect you, as a reasonable girl, to cease, henceforth aud forever, to allude to a subject which, in your father's mind, is associated with the most painful remembrances. I received Mr. Lino as your teacher, with no recommendation but the impression raade upon rae by his appear ance. In this I was indeed to blame ; but my interest was highly excited ; I thought I befriend ed a noble spirit — an exile from a depressed yet glorious country. I received the Tuscan wines, not wishing to refuse what was offered as a token of friendship. Happily in my OAvn person I first experienced the workings of the insidious poison, and prompt raedical aid has availed where it well might have despaired. And I live — live to punish a villain — live to make an exaraple of one of the thousand specious renegades from the continent, who insinuate theraselves into the horaes of Eng lishmen, to abuse their hospitality, to overreach, ay, and to work their ruin ! " " What possible motive could have induced even the thought of such an act ? " " Do you suppose I shall tax my imagination to discover the raotivesof a treacherous Italian? I leave all such labor to the law. Let it have 192 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. its course. I have done my duty to myself and my country." " But not to the exUe, father ! — Do but see him; perhaps he can explain." " I am not equal to a visit to the Old Bailey, to-night, Mary." His gentle auditor started back, and burst into tears ; she knew not of the arrest. But soon re covering, she lifted up her face to that of her parent, who beheld, with surprise, an expression of dignified and wounded feeling, such as he had never witnessed before. "Father! my mother used often to speak to me of one who, in the agony of a cruel death, said prayerfully of his eneraies, " they know not what they do" — and she bade rae thus ever feel toward whomsoever I should deem wrongful or unkind. Father, forgive rae ! — you know not what you do. I feel that the stranger is not guilty of the awful crime Avith Avhich he is charged.. It cannot be — -the impression you first received is true ; he is a nobleman in soul. Oh, suffer not such a spirit to be wounded. But I fear not for him, for he has told rae that all great minds are renewed by trial, and gather strength from persecution. He has told me of a philosopher of his country who was shut up in a dungeon because he de clared that the earth went round the sun ; and about a poet whom they called mad, and impris oned away from the fields and bright sunlight which he loved, and then he became mad indeed. THE FLORENTINE. 193 I weep not for him, father; but in the pleasant home of his youth, there is one who will shed grievous tears, when the dismal tidings arrive. I mourn for her. Father! forget your anger; and to know that he Avhom thou falsely deemest thine eneray is free, his reputation unsullied, and his betrothed unstricken, will prove to thee more re viving than the bitter cup of rcA'-enge. Father ! forgive me. Vain, I see, are the words of your Mary. May God protect the Italian, for he is guiltless ! " A week subsequent to the conversation we have related, toward the close of day, a young man sat Avith folded arras and a riveted gaze, in an apartment which, in the twilight that then revealed it, presented an aspect of stern solidity, yet not devoid of comfort. An easel rested against the wall ; a pallet, with some painting UtensUs, lay confusedly upon the floor, and a fcAV books were scattered upon a small table. " Yes, Anina spake well and truly " — soliloquized the occupant " I did need separation. I did re quire a pressure from Avithout, or a void around me to quicken the impulses Avithin. I have lamented this catastrophe, I have bitterly scorned this disgrace, long enough. And now I will wrench sublime consolation from the very gloom of misfortune. I have done all that can be done. Ere this, Ipolito must have received ray letter. ' 1> 194 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. True, he knows not that I am an incarcerated man, but he knows the suspicions under which I am placed ; he will obtain the needful testimo nials ; he will keep the circumstance from Anina ; the trial will at length come on — I shall be, I must be, triumphantly acquitted, and none will recognize in ray English appellation the narae of Antonio. And, meantime, I have succeeded in effecting my purpose, (and he looked complacently upon the materials of his art) — here is light, and something of quiet. Oh, that the vision of yester night would return ! I must transfix it — I must embody the idea. Yes, ere long the face of my beloved shall beam upon me, even in this prison. I feel that I shall succeed. They have taken my liberty — ^but the mind is free! Oh, for the morning light! I yearn for day. Let me reflect. A beautiful nun listening to the Miserere, — the atti tude that of a suppliant, the eye tearful, ay, but enraptured by the raelody, and raised in devotion, like Raphael's St. Cecilia ; the expression with a shade of sadness, but impassioned — exalted ; and the model — ah ! the model shall be Anina ! " THE FLORENTINE. I95 CHAPTER III. "Still o'er them floated an inspiring breath- The odor and the atmosphere of song." The rays of sunlight fell obliquely upon the Lung' Arno, where a goodly concourse were moving to and fro, or conversing in stationary groups. It was evidently one of those days when the Italian yields himself, with especial freedom, to the " dolce far niente." Nodding and smiling, with a buona festa for as many of the gay throng as glanced at her playful demeanor, the flower-girl distributed her violets embedded in leaves of geranium ; the blind man touched his guitar, while an urchin beside hira accorapanied the raonotonous strains with the constant invocation " dartemi qualchecosa," and the licensed pauper rattled his tin cup, and iraplored the lightsome beings who glided by — " per amore di Dio" — to give of their substance. The equipage of the Grand Duke passed rapidly from the palace to ward the Cacine; but the Grand Duke himself preferred a promenade to a ride with the ladies of his household, as one might learn from the uni versal and respectful recognition manifested by the crowd of pedestrians toward the gentleraan in a brown coat, so plainly fashioned, that it would infallibly obtain for him the cognomen of Quaker, 196 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. in certain localities far beyond the limits of his own little duchy. Two disputants, beginning to perceive that their war of words was becoming too obstreperous for the scene and occasion, hastily emerged frora the crowd into an open and comparatively vacant square, in order to renew their colloquy at ease. Thither we will follow. " Mark me. Carlo, I speak of the action, the expression, the performance throughout, and I speak of Ronzi when she is herself" "And then you will persist, Luigi, in maintain ing that Malibran is surpassed in the Norma?" " That Avill I, caro mio, against Avhoever will gainsay it." "Thou hast then undertaken to oppose thy single judgment to the universal sentiment. Hast heard of Garcia's adventure at Arezzo ? " " And was not I one of the torch-bearing mul titude that attended cara Ronzi home from the Pergola? But to the point, amico mio; didst thou not perceive, last night, in her speaking countenance, every minute shade of varying expression ? Did not her commanding figure, dignified air, eloquent eyes, and, above all, her mellifluous voice, bring home to thee most touchingly the passionate ideas involved in the Norma?" "I tell thee, Luigi, that Italy has settled the question ; thou art dreaming of Ronzi as she THE FLORENTINE. 197 was. Malibran is in her prime, and Europe has awarded her the palm." " There are those in Florence, Carlo, without the precincts of thy wine-shop, who would con tend with thee on that point." , " Not one, save thyself, Luigi." " Santissima Virgine! there was but one voice in the parterre, on the first representation." "Ah, poverino ! thy wits are unsettled by music ; thus thou speakest of each prima donna in turn ; she is always better than all who preceded. But, caro, thou shalt not make all Firenze share thy perversity. Nay, have pa tience ; thou shalt be convinced. If the first passer-by who hath seen the Norma, as performed by both, doth not agree with me, then Carlo Pisani will do thy bidding, so that it be not to displease a customer, nor to break laAV." " I am content." " Here is a grave and stately cavalier; — ah, he would light his cigar." " Ecco Signor," said Carlo, approaching the stranger, and proffering his flint; — "Signor, canst say if there will be any necessity for entering the parterre an hour before the time, to-night ? " "Is not the Norina iniraitably executed?" said Luigi. " I have so seen it." " And by La Malibran? " inquired Carlo. " By her superior in that character, at least," was the reply. 17* 198 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. " Bravo ! " exclaimed Luigi. " There, Carlo," he added triumphantly, "you see De Begnis has one raore votary." " That one is not rae," said the ca\''alier. It was now Luigi's turn to feel disappointed, " Prithee, Signor," he continued, " who dost thou think is iniraitable in the Norraa ? " " Signora Pasta." " Excuse me, you are a" "Milanese," replied the stately gentleman, as he walked away, complacently exhaling the fragrant smoke. The smile and the shrug of the amused friends were scarcely enacted with true Italian expres siveness, when their attention was directed to the advancing figure of a primly attired old man. Luigi recognized him as an acquaintance from Prato; and after they had interchanged a greeting, asked if he had visited the city to attend the opera. "Not altogether," he answered. Carlo felt again encouraged. " Doubtless," continued Luigi, "you think our prima donna cannot be sufficiently admired?" " I ne'er kncAV but one of whora I could thus speak," said the old gentleraan, " and she is yonder." "At rehearsal?" asked Luigi, hopefully. " Does Catalani rehearse for her private enter- talnraents? I had thought that, in her villa in the environs, rausic was wholly a pastime." THE FLORENTINE. 199 "C'ecaduto ilformaggio su maccaroni," * said Carlo, pointing to the opposite street. " Here comes Signor Bartolomeo, who, thou well know est, is uninfluenced by local prejudice, and not so old as to sympathize only in retired opera per formers; for thy comfort, too, know, Luigi, that he is a connoisseur in dramatic as well as in musical efforts." " And thou art not aware of his opinion of Ronzi?" " Only generally, and not in the Norma." "Pardon, Signor," said Luigi, as he took the hand of the new comer, " tell rae how you are pleased with Bellini's new opera and its present representation." "It is a glorious thing; and who can do it greater justice than the still beautiful" " Malibran Garcia," interrupted Carlo. " Ronzi de Begnis," exclaimed Bartolomeo. " Name thy requirement," said Carlo, looking impatiently at Luigi. " To-morrow," said his friend, smilingly; I must consider ; but fear not. I shall not be very severe ; and, for the present, addio." Ascending one of the neighboring elevations, whence is obtainable an extensive vieAv erabra- * " The cheese has fallen on the macaroni," i. e. a desirable coinci dence has occurred. When we consider in what esteem this article of food is held by the Italians, and how indispensable is deemed the addi tion of grated cheese, the force of the proverb is obvious. 200 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. cing the thickly clustered dwelhngs of Florence, her mammoth Duomo, and the adjoining and en circling Apennine, Luigi carae upon a quiet road walled on one side, and overlooking, on the other, a broad valley covered with olive trees, and con taining several villas and small dwellings. Here, during most of the day, the sun exerts its full influence, and the Availed hill-side shields the sol itary road from the wind ; and here, in view of the soothing landscape, an elderly and somewhat portly raan, with a countenance bland in its aspect, though slightly shaded with seriousness, was enjoying a retired promenade. He was so occupied with his own thoughts, as not to be aware of Luigi's presence until the latter had audibly saluted him. "One would think, Signor Ipolito, that thou wert not the guardian of Firenze's fairest daugh ter, judging from thy sober visage and unwontedly lonely walk." "And it raay be, Lnigi mio, that what thou deemest a consoling office, (and God knows it hath been,) can become the occasion of anxious musings." "Has aught inauspicious, caro, happened to thy charge ? Ne'er have I seen a more beauteous and joyful face than was hers, when last I saw her in the arbor-walks of the Boboh." " The poor chUd is harassed, Luigi, by one who should prize her peace beyond the vagaries of prideful hope." THE FLORENTINE. 201 " Ah ! I understand you. The old lady still opposes the addresses of Antonio. Corpo di Bacco ! shemay wait till too late, to realize her fond project of uniting Anina to one of noble birth. True, she sacrificed her own wealth and nobility to the good Francisco that's gone; but 'tis scarcely fair to force poor Anina to regain thera Avith the sacrifice of hei" affections." "It is the mothei-'s inconsistency that provokes me. High birth has been her sine qua non when the name of Anina Avas mentioned in connection Avith matrimony. And the lack of this has been the only fault she could find Avith Antonio ; for a kindlier and raore gifted giovenotto is not to be found in Florence. Yet at' our last conversazione, when all the company were talking of the artist with whose fame London is ringing, the Marchi oness, glad of an opportunity to depreciate Anto nio, said to me, ' Signor Ipolito, thou hast often told me that Anina's absent admirer possessed nobility of soul and of intellect, if not of birth ; why could not he manage to get imprisoned and astonish the world Avith his painting, a^ well as this unknown Florentine, if he indeed be one?' " " Were it so, Signora mia," I replied, " thou wouldst not think better of him, for he would still be a plebeian." " tell thee," exclaimed she, energetically, "Anina should marry him." "Why, mother," said Anina timidly, "the artist Avould still be Antonio — a raere native of 202 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. Florence. Tell rae in what differs Camilini, in this respect, from the famed artist who is even known only as a Florentine ?" " As the Florentine, you mean," returned the Signora, with emphasis. And therein, Luigi, did she find an attraction equal even to her much- loved faraily greatness. Oh, it is a raere vain ambition that divides Antonio and Anina. Ere long, the Misericordia must take away their old brother, and I could die more peacefuUy, was Anina under the conjugal protection of such a man as Antonio. I did trust that this day raonth, when she Avill attend her cousin Beatrice to the altar, would see thera also united. Would that parental opposition were the sole trouble, or that she had a more powerful friend than old Ipolito ! " ' ' And would that the friendship I bear thee entitled rae to share thy perplexities." " Luigi, thou shalt know all, though it is vain to expect a secret kept in Florence. Yet thou canst surely restrain thy tongue, when the happi ness of such an one as Anina is involved." " Trust me, — per St. Giovanni" " Be?ie. Know, then, that Antonio had a goodly quantity of our Florence wines sent to London; for (would you believe it?) they tell me a flask of Aleatico costs two or three francis- coni there ; — and Tonino rightly fancied such a luxury would furnish an acceptable gift to his EngUsh friends. The first he presented nearly THE FLORENTINE. 203 destroyed a nobleman"; suspicion was excited ;* the wines were examined, and found to contain poison. For a long time I have been sifting the matter secretly, for Tonino charges me to be circuraspect, lest Anina learns his peril; and makes as light as possible of the danger by which he is surrounded. Carlo Pisani acknowl edges he bought the flasks of an apothecary, and that his people transferred the wine, by mistake, before they were cleansed, and several of them contained the sediment of baneful drugs. Thus the circumstance is explained ; but Carlo will not be persuaded to furnish an affidavit to the facts which will alone avail, until Antonio's safety absolutely demands it ; and such he is not con vinced is the case now ; he says such a declara tion from him will ruin his business; and he knows I am too fearful ofthe affair being known, to appeal to the police. Thus I have been kept at bay, and I know not what course to adopt. One of the two evils must be chosen. And each is inimical either to the wishes or the safety of Antonio." The countenance of Luigi brightened. " Thou hast told thy dilemma," said he, " to one able to extricate thee. Ere the post leaves to-morrow, thou shalt have the affidavit" "Think not to persuade Carlo; what means have you more than I? Explain." "Pazienza! He is under a promise. Dine with me to-morrow at Marche's, and you shall be 204 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. informed more fuUy. Trust me wholly. Hast aught else to say? " "Naught, save to thank Heaven and thee." CHAPTER IV. Juliet. " How cam'st thou hither, tell me ? " Romeo. " By love who first did prompt me to inquire ; He lent me counsel, and I lent him eyes. I am no pilot ; yet, wert thou as far As that vast shore washed with the farthest sea, I would adventure for such merchandize." A GROUP, consisting chiefly of females, in whose attire white was the predominant color, stood in cheerful converse upon the broadly-paved espla nade before the church of Santa Croce. The morning Avas not far advanced, yet so warmly did the sun beat upon the marble pavement, that the long snowy veils in which two of the party were arrayed, were put aside, and the breeze from the mountains played sportively among the dark ringlets of Beatrice, and over the more pen sive countenance of her cousin. The arrival of an additional pair seemed a signal for their com mune to cease ; and joining hands, the several couples stood in order, each bearing a wreath of flowers ; and when a lad, in the habit of the THE FLORENTIINE. 205 church, raised on high the heavy curtain which hung before the entrance, the solemn tones of a chant were faintly heard, and the little band reve rently entered. It Avas evidently a marriage pro cession. As they Avalked silently up the long avenue, the .light tread of the fair train ephoed softly in the pauses of the chant, and one might have fancied, as he gazed from a distance, through the shadowy expanse, that a company of spirits were passing from their resting-place beneath, forth to some earthly ministration. Nor were the objects around unfavorable to the in dulgence of such an idea. The majestic figure of Dante leaning over from above the tomb prepared in vain to receive his dust, Avith his stern expres sion of dignified grief, the marble personification of Italy standing in the attitude of a mourner above the sepulchre of her great tragedian, the dense entablatures, the heavy architecture, breathed, in the dim light, a mystic solemnity. But all these were still, and cold, and senseless ; while the bright eyes, the moving lips, the fresh and fragrant roses of the bridal party, spake of life, of life in its conscious beauty and promise. And when the gentle forras encircled, with a statue-like quietude, the railing of the altar, the treraulous accents in which the responses were uttered, the Ioav quick breathings, the glistening tears — these spoke, indeed, of the spiritual, but of the spiritual while yet environed with the attri butes of humanity. 18 206 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. A slight bustle denoted that the cereraony Avas concluded ; yet was there no sign of immediate separation. The officiating priest Avas soon en gaged in a discourse Avith Beatrice, which ap peared to rivet the attention of the group. The old raan had been her confessor from infancy, and with a truly paternal interest, he Avas speak ing of her duties and destiny. Anina felt herself gently drawn aside, and obeying the signal of Ipolito, she followed him to the opposite side of the church. - Soon after, the attention of the party was aroused by a faint cry, but whether of sur prise or fear, Avas not clearly indicated ; and, for a moment, their eyes were directed to the point whence it seeraed to proceed ; but there being no repetition, and the words of the priest becoming more and more interesting, they were soon ab sorbed again. Advancing footsteps now aroused them — not the measured and scarcely audible tread with which they had approached the altar, but the firm, quick steps of confidence and ex pectancy. Anina appeared, led on by a manly and graceful cavalier, whom all present imme diately recognized as Antonio. Returning their eager inquiries and salutations only with a smile and a nod, he immediately addressed the now silent priest : — " Father, if thou art not weary, a new bridal service awaiteth thee, after which thy blessing and exhortation raay be doubly bestowed." Astonishment was in every face ; yet the manner of Antonio proved singularly ¦IWE FLORENTINE. 207 effective, and all yielded to its influence, none without surprise, yet all with alacrity ; and when the campanile announced that the sun had reached his meridian, Antonio Avas the reigning star of a gay assemblage in the house of the Marchioness, and Anina was his bride. At a moment when her guests Avere all occupied, she stole away, and entered her mother's apartment. " Mother, I knew not that Antonio could boast relationship with a Count, still less that he had inherited his title." " Nor I, Anina. You do not mean " "Nay, I would question thee, mother." " It is a vain question, my daughter ; you know it admits but one answer" — and the old lady sighed. " And yet the untitled Antonio is ray husband; and, unless Ipolito reversed his message with thine approval " " Anina, thou knowest Avhat renders renowned the much talkedof picture called the 'Miserere,' purchased at such a price by Lord EUmsley." " They say it is the face of the nun." " Anina, they say, too, that face resembles thine," and the mother embraced her child, and then gazed meaningly upon her. A glow of delight thrilled to the heart of Anina. " I see it all," she exclaimed. " Antonio Cami lini, my Antonio, is The Flokentine !" MISCELLANY. 18* BYRONIA. , " Truths that wakg To perish never, AVhich neither listlessness nor mad endeavor, Nor man nor boy, Nor all tliat is at enmity with joy. Can utterly abolish or destroy ! Somewhat akin to the sacred influence that in dividual associations throw over familiar scenes, is that Avith which the spell of literature invests the spot it celebrates. How much nearer to us has Irving brought England in her primitive and baronial aspect ! and who that has worthily felt the enchantment of the northern minstrel, or the heart-rausic of Burns's lyre, will ever wander without a horae-feeling over the Highlands, or along the Tweed ! And by a transition the most natural, the musing traveller is ever fondly re verting to the origin of those associations which have so richly peopled the lone raount and the silent lake, the ruined castle and the umbrageous glen. And when circumstancjes of peculiar moral interest are attached to such intellectual benefac- 212 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. tors, when their remerabrance is associated with something of a mournful destiny, commiseration is mingled with gratitude, and we unconsciously yield thera a tribute of sympathy as sincere as it is spontaneous. It is astonishing how the indul gence of such feelings, amid the scenes which have awakened them, tends to personify their object. They evoke the image of the departed, not as it may long have existed to the eye of fancy, but with the life-like lineaments which only a love-inspired imagination — nature's holiest limner — can depict From a fanciful vision, it assumes the ideal presence and companionship of a congenial friend. The Byronic associations of Italy constitute an interesting episode in the meditative suggestions of the land. Of course they are not equally or universally enjoyed. But we who recognize the English language as our vernacular, and prize English literature as our heritage, are peculiarly open to their influence — especially those of us in whose minds the noble bard's effusions are asso ciated with the thousand thrilling sentiments that embalra the remembrance of the first contempo raneous poet to whose power we were suscep tible. When sojourning within the "fair white walls" of Florence, haunting the time-stricken trophies of the "City of the Soul," or standing on the " Bridge of Sighs," we are conscious as it were instinctively of a vicinity to Childe Hairold ; we BYRONIA. 213 identify the author with the scenes of his pUgrim age, and recognize him as an intellectual and ideal cicerone. The very characteristic of the Ro- maunt Avhich has been a prominent point of cri tical objection, enhances its power in this respect. To us, thus influenced, it is not surprising that the pilgrim occasionally speaks of himself The allusions to personal feelings with which the poem is interlineated, give to its hero this very character of life and reality. We feel his pres ence the raore, because his attention is occasion ally turned from the objects which we seem mu tually to contemplate, and inwardly directed. It strikes us as natural for our companion to com mune Avith himself aloud, or pour into our sym pathizing bosoms the tale of his deep experience. Surrounded as we are by tokens of fallen gran deur, and the results of human genius, it agrees Avith our existent mood that humanity should be discussed ; we are lured to the very portal of metaphysics. And however intrinsically sad the strain of him with whom Ave commune, its mel ancholy ardor meets a conscious want, which cold speculation could ill supply. Byron, then, is singularly interesting to us in Italy. We remember that the very poem which is so ministering to our pleasure was there com posed, and we are mindful that thence he de parted to return no more. At Newstead, Ave think of his boisterous period of youthful convi viality — of the bright aud beautiful dreara of his 214 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. first love ; on the borders of the Leraan, we con- teraplate his wild revellings with the elements, or his rich comraunings with serener nature, and muse upon his bitter regrets over blighted affec tions ; but Italy we feel was the scene of a more deliberate and introspective period — of a long and sweet converse with antiquity. As the one fearful pause antecedent to the catastrophe, as the meditative hour preceding the eventful act, was his sojourn in Italy before the fatal expedition in the drama of Byron's life. Such impressions heighten not a little the effect of the fourth canto of the Pilgrimage. When, in the hour of full and free emotion, we find relief, satisfaction, and delight, in recurring to its glowing periods, the history, the misfortunes, the yery errors of the poet impart a solemnity and thrilling interest to his legacy. Never to me were these associations raore rife and vivid than in Venice — loved even " frora his boyhood." The Avindow of ray apartraent over looked one of the minor canals, Avhose quiet surface was rarely ruffled by a passing- gondola. The solid raasonry which bounded the view within a narrow compass, Avas darkly shaded by the mildew of age, and overgrown, at intervals, with mossy green. The polished tiles of the floor, and the antique style of the furniture, were in unison with the prevailing language Avithout. To this sanctum was I wont to repair after the various excursions which introduce the stranger to an BYRONIA. 215 acquaintance with the Ocean Queen. And by this means, the train of thonght and the emotive mood, adapted to the place, were scarcely, even for a moment, invaded. Eloquent sUence, an almost audible decay, and antiquated trophies of art, Avere about me every hour of the long sum mer day. I lived in the atraosphere of the past. Venetian characteristics afford an exciteraent to the feelings of a gentle and dream-like nature, instinct with pathos, and more conducive to vague meditation than awakening thought. Their influence is essentially different from that induced by other clustered raonuraents of by-gone glory ; it is as unique as the Sea-Cybele herself The principle of association is primarily addressed, and the dim and distant forms of Henry Dandolo and Marino Faliero not unfrequently give way to his, who " Not in vain Has worn the sandal shoon and scallop shell." Under the dark awning of the gondola, within the richly pictured halls of the palace, and be neath the lofty dome, we remember how often his feet have pressed the same spot, his eye rested on the same objects, his soul yielded to the same in spiration. Mingling, at even-time, with the fes tive throng on the piazza of St. Marks, we recall the ardent imagination and warmth of feeling which led him to dedicate to pleasure what was sacred to virtue ; gazing upon the sunburnt fea- 216 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. tures of his old gondolier, we fancy how often he must have stood by him alone upon the silent sea, witless of the mystic movements of the poet's soul ; surrounded by the placid waters of the bay or the wave-washed Lido, we picture the manly vigor and beauty of his frame, as he fearlessly buffeted the waves, or urged his courser along the sands ; and in the porter's lodge of the Fos carini palace, beholding his helmet-like head-gear of the Horse-Guards, Ave think of the last sad epoch in his history — that chivalrous enterprise and lonely death. Poor Byron ! (we are ready to exclaim,) how often didst thou gaze musingly, at the midnight hour, upon the calm element around thee, and yearn for something of its clear ness and quietude ! How raust thy heart have wrestled with its despair, when not a sigh escaped thee ! There must have been high and pure aspirations looming, like beacon fires, from the gloom of thy desponding hours; there must have been glimpses of an unattained good, when sa tiety was most deeply realized. And if, in those better raoments, there had been one beside thee whom thou couldst have lawfully and truly loved —one true child of huraanity to " strike the elec tric chain " with the Avand of truth — a mind reverently sympathizing with thy genius, a heart deeply commiserating thy perversion, a being who could win back thy " lone wandering but not lost" spirit, and urge it upward — might thou not have been recalled, awakened, renewed? The BYRONIA. 217 golden bowl was not yet broken, nor the silver cord loosened. Love, conscience, still lingered ; reason obtained ; ideality was rife ; and when the sense of the right, the beautiful, the true, exists, who that has sounded the depths of his own nature will dare to despair of "nature's master-piece — the poet-soul ?" Yes! wedded to pleasure as the world thought thee, and baffled in spirit as thou truly wert, we feel here, amid the ocean air and solemn aspect of Venice, hoAV little we do really knoio of thee — hoAv little thou didst know of thyself ! NATURAL LANGUAGE. -" I have learned To look on Nature." By this appellation have no ordinary school of philosophers distinguished the gesticular and in voluntary modes of huraan expression, frora the more deliberate and direct vehicle of comraunlca tion which we call speech. It is interesting, in every point of view, to observe and study this species of language. Few indications of innate sentiraent are more authentic; and in no exterior forms are character, constitutional peculiarities, and physical teniperament, more prorainently de lineated. For myself, having ever been prone to indulge a passion for the observation of humanity under all her aspects, the natural language has afforded me a fund of entertainraent and instruc tion ; and Italy affords an admirable school for its study. There is something worthy of the thorough integrity of Nature in this ordinance of her statute book. It is well that the unyielding arrogance of the proud man should impart a 220 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. rigidity to his dorsal region, throw up the chin, deepen the curvature of the spine, and render the gait measured, and the air pompous ; it is expedient that the lips of him unyielding in purpose, should be habitually compressed ; that wiry rauscles should assurae the aspect of motionless lines upon the face of the heartless; that, sportive smiles, a glancing eye, and a sinister lurking meaning, should raark the cunning ; and slowly evolved words, and a stiff carriage, the precise. And it is as wisely ordered that a sweet calm should rest upon the countenance of the true hearted, sunny smiles array the visage of the innocent, and a flashing eye and general activity of nerve bespeak the enthusiast All these outworkings of nature, these honest and indelible inscriptions upon the temples of humanity, are worthy of grateful re cognition. For the life of me, I cannot under stand why such insignia are not as intrinsically interesting as the cloud-pictures on the sky which raen note for meteorological purposes, or the veins of rock which are conned by the geologist to nomenclate the species or predicate the sub-stra- tura; nay, I understand not why such signs of raan raay not be as profitably inspected as the cut of his coat, the altitude of his chapeau, or the set of his nether garments, whereby many are wont to form ultimate judgments of his rank and merits. Assuredly there is a true philosophy in abjuring these conventional grounds of estimating our kind, and attentively perusing the more legitimate NATUR.4L LANGUAGE. 221 hand-writing upon the wall, behind which the hidden eleraents of character are at work. It is astonishing how raany and admirable purposes are answered by this arrangement in the economy of our being. Not only does the natural language serve as a kind of exponent to the great sum of principles, spiritual and physi cal, involved in an individual specimen of the genus homo ; its degrees of vigor and extent of deA^elopment characterize nations as significantly as their vernacular tongues. Fcav parts of the globe present more favorable opportunities for enjoying a general and contrasted view of na tional natural languag-e, than the southern regions of Europe, at the seasons when they are places of general resort. Take, for example, the south of Italy in Avinter. The reserve of the English, the vivacity of the French, the gravity of- the German, the ardor of the Italian, are there dis played in strong jelief; while the eccentricity of the artist, the complacency of the connoisseur, the slavery of the fashionable, and the enthusiasm of the devotee, still more minutely subdivide the varied chapter of language here displayed. The intonations and accents of their various mother tongues, differ not raore palpably than do the gestures, physiognomical expression and manners, which speak for them, and in spite of them, to the observant eye. Consider for a raoraent the various meaning embodied in a shrug. A book might be written on the science of shrugging. 19* 222 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. " It 's all humbug," said a London exquisite to his companion, as they sallied towards their ba rouche from the portico of the Pantheon ; and so saying, he momentarily lifted his shoulders : it was a shrug of contempt. "Non cognosco, sig nor," was the reply of an Italian, as he gazed inquiringly along the streets, seeking to direct a bewildered stranger, at the same time slowly raising his back aud loAvering his chin : tt was the shrug of indecision. "Poverino," ejaculated a Roman padrona, as she beheld her invalid lodger incline over a blazing fire, and left the room Avith a Richard-like appearance about the shoul ders, and an oscillating raovement of the caput: it was a shrug, which, being literally interpreted, signifies, " he is crazy." This natural language is an admirable provi sion for the safe escape of dangerous elements, which, from their nature, must be " wreaked upon expression." Would I could induce the parliaraent of Great Britain to establish by law, an institution for the culture of this human attri bute, in which the English nation are raost inhu- raanly deficient. They are blaraed, forsooth, for pugnacious propensities. In the narae of coraraon sense, when a rrian is so unused to speech, and so ill-starred as to have been born under the heavy accents of the Anglo-Saxon, and thus precluded frora volubUity, and, when he suffers the addi tional grievance of a lyraphatic temperaraent — a body destitute of nervous inspiration, and more NATURAL LANGUAGE. 223 developed in the stomach or liver than in the heart — what, I say, is such a mian to do when insulted ? Develope his indignation through cora- bativeness, to be sure; in other words, knock his antagonist down. A Frenchman, under such circumstances, might palaver till his anger was dissolved in air, or dance till it went off in per spiration ; a German might have recourse to his pipe; a Spaniard to his rapier; but what would an excited son of Albion find so convenient and appropriate as his fist or foot ? Nature will out ; and until the finer elements of the natural lan guage are cultivated in Great Britain, direct ap plication of muscular force must necessarily take the place of the more legitimate modes of expres sion, gesticulation, and nervous action. This is not mere theory. I have often found occasion to admire the beauty, the sublime pru dence involved in the obvious intentions of nature in regard to the expression of human feeling. Passion, of whatever kind, and howso ever modified, spontaneously and necessarily seeks development If we would suffer its par oxysms to subside gradually through their appro priate channels, all would be well; and this end, I maintain, is signally subserved by the natural language. Two of the most baneful passions are pride and anger. Now, how common, in this country, is it to see an individual, upon his ac cession to any station, office or reputation, assume not only a prideful demeanor, (Avhich is merely 224 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. negatively injurious to the community,) but a supercilious deportment, an utter and direct con tempt for the rights and feelings of others, which is positively insulting. Yet I Avas rather enter tained than angered at the manner in which an Italian displayed the importance he felt in dis charging the solemn functions of a letter-dispenser in a post-office of no common pretensions. This man seemed to delight in pronouncing his dictum upon the momentous questions propounded, often from quivering lips and -with a quick breath, through the iron bars which separated him from the eager tlirong. Habit had apparently rendered hira insensible to that part of his duty which re quired the presentation of letters ; and he ever flung with indifference the longed-for epistle be fore the expectant inquirer. Like most men in authority, too. he cared little to rule over a fami liar multitude ; to such as he had given and re fused for years, he gave and refused listlessly. But when a new face appeared at the grate, and a name was pronounced foreign to his ear, and such as he felt tolerably sure his eye had never glanced upon, there was a magnificent exhibition of his power. As deliberately as it was in human patience to suffer, would he pass letter after letter under review, half pausing as if in doubt occa sionaUy, while visions of home were minglino- in the reveries of the applicant, with a lurking, chUUng fear of disappointment; alternating be tween hope and fear would the stranger Avatch NATURAL LANGUAGE. 225 the sloAv motions of the man of office, till the pUe was neatly arranged and deliberately transferred to its pigeon-hole ; then turning towards him, as to a petitioner at his throne, the letter-king would smUe at his blank visage, and lifting his right hand, Avave it, with a provoking deliberation, thrice to and fro, and then slowly articulate, " Non c'e niente, signor." The exquisite touches in the natural language of complacency herein discernible were truly indescribable. As regards anger, raark the difference of its display in an Italian and an Englishraan ; and note the advantage which the natural language of the former gives him. At a cafe in Florence a Londoner deeraed himself slighted by one of the Avaiters. The idea no sooner possessed him than forthwith rising, with one bloAV, he levelled the garcon with the floor; for which breach of the peace a month's imprisonment was aAvarded him. At a tratoria in the same city, an Italian, after Availing half an hour for a particular dish, received it not prepared according to his wishes, whereupon, being enraged, he started up, and turning to the attendant, with an air of puncti lious politeness, and a voice attuned to the bitter est irony, calmly ejaculated, Addio per sempre ; (good bye forever) — to Avhich the other replied, Avith a countenance pale with rage, and a smile of sardonic gaiety, Grazie, signor, (thank you, sir.) The smile, the mock politeness, the ex- 226 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. pression of utter contempt manifested in the posture and countenance — in a word, the natural language, answered all the purpose of a fray. On another occasion, however, I fully expected to Avitness what it has been said is an unprecedented occurrence — an Italian single handed fight Two disputants were waging such a war of words in the midst of a croAvded fair, as to attract univer sal attention. . Approaching the parties as near as possible, I- learned that the dispute involved a point of honor; rage was at fever heat; a throng Were gazing on the scene. In London, Dublin, or New York, copious reference to the profane vocabulary, and a few rounds of tearing, scratch ing and fisting, would have settled the matter. But though arms, legs- and heads were in per petual motion, and torrents of words poured forth in a deafening and interminable stream, though the combatants approximated so as to come in contact ; yet this tremendous display of physical energy produced no bloodshed nor broken bones ; it simply proved a safety-valve. At length the crowd separated the parties, and their voices obviously slackened and finally Avere almost hushed, when some expression from one of the disputants revived the anger of the other. He pressed back his way; his opponent turned; every line and hue betokened dire animosity ; the crowd gave way, and then closed about them. Now, thought I, they must come to blows. The NATURAL L.4NGUAGE. 227 offended one rushed towards his antagonist, drew his tattered cloak firmly over his breast, placed his hat on the ground, and then stepping back a pace or two, he flung himself on his knees and invoked all the saints to bear him witness that his adversary was a liar. Thus ended the Italian fight. MY HOME ABROAD. ' Ah 1 where shall I so sweet a dwelling find'! For all around without, and all within. Nothing save what delightful was and kind. Of goodness favoring and a tender mind E'er rose to view." How much to be commiserated is he to whom not a line of the poetry of human nature has been directly revealed ; who has never been lured from the sterile pathway of isolated pursuit by a flower that srailed up to hira, oi' a raurmur that fell soothingly upon his ear; whose mind has never been charmed into blessed self-forgetfulness, by the consoling activity of native sentiment. It AA'^as but the impulse of inalienable human feeling which led Sterne to say, that if he were in a desert, he would love some cypress ; and baffled, indeed, must be his spirit who has wandered to and fro in a peopled Avorld, and found no child of humanity Avhose companionship and affection could recall the simple joyousness of early and unsophisticated being. How much does the plea- 20 230 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. sure of a sojourner in the fairest lands depend upon the position Avhence he gazes forth upon their domain — upon the immediate social influ ences by which he is surrounded — upon his home ABROAD ! How different will be the aspect of ex ternal nature, aud, the impressions of social or moral phenomena, to the wanderer who looks forth from his own solitary consciousness, and to him who views them through the loop-holes of a domestic retreat! This is not a merely specula tive suggestion, as I propose to illustrate, if the reader will but pass, in fancy, to the favorite city of Italy, once the scene, and at present the Avit- ness, of Lorenzo de Medici's authority and enter prise. The high and dark buildings which line the narrow and flag-paved street running from the Piazza di Colonna to the Mercato Nuovo, render its general aspect peculiarly sombre ; yet at the season when the fiery solar influence is at its height, it is truly refreshing to turn from the daz zling heat of the open, squares into these shady by-streets, so characteristic of the cities of south ern Europe. The second range of apartments of one of t'nese edifices Avas occupied by a family whose fortunes received their doAvnfall under the Napoleon dynasty. The comfortable and quiet seclusion adapted to their condition, succeeded a more briUiant, but perhaps less happy establish ment. At the close of a winter's day spent in the delectable.employment of inspecting " lodgings for MY HOME ABROAD. 231 single gentlemen," I found myself settled in one of the front rooms of this building — the domicile I had at length decided should be ray teraporary abode. As I sat rausingly before a cheerful wood fire, my reverie was interrupted by a gentle tap at the door ; and scarcely had the entrate passed my lips, when it quietly opened, and the presid ing goddess of that httle Avorld was before me. The countenance of Antoinetta exhibited features so beautifully regular, that even when in perfect repose, they would bear the raost critical perusal. But it was when lit up by a cheering sraile, play ing over and enlivening their bland expression, such as they Avore Avhen she thus broke in like sunlight upon ray raisty day-dreaming, that the Avitchery of her eye and the pleasantry of her air exerted their full power. In the sweet accents of her native tongue, she bade me good evening, adding that she had thought the Signor might feel solitary, and had brought in her muslin work to sit an hour with him. How thankfully he accepted the proposition need not be related. The converse of that evening sufficed for our mutual understanding. For, be it known to you, kind reader, that the social, like the physical atmosphere of Italy, is AvonderfuUy insinuating: one discovers his adaptation at once. The Ital ians seem to know intuitively the latent points of sympathy between themselves and those with whom they come in contact ; a short time serves either to convince them that their acquaintance 232 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. never can become a friend, or to make him so almost immediately. Nor is this all. Let a genu ine Italian discern but the glimmerings of conge nial sentiment, and you have his confidence ; and if there be aught noble within you, the very alac rity with which you are trusted, will secure it from abuse. My fair padrona was betrothed to a countryman then in Britain, and her mother had resigned to her the duties of housewife, while she, Italian-like, devoted her more mature years to the exercises of religion, and to basking in the sunshine of imaginative enjoyment. The Countess was a genuine specimen of a Tuscan lady of the old school. She still re tained sufficient matronly coraeliness to attest her youthful beauty, and her habits and conversation clearly evidenced the cultivation of a naturally good raind, and the urbanity of a kindly spirit; yet withal was there the strict devotion of the Catholic, and the never absent enthusiasrh of the Italian. There was a dignified earnestness and grace in her raanners, which almost insensibly inspired respect and interest. I could not but mark the different results of a convent education upon the mother and daughter. The faith of the forraer Avas fixed thereby; whUe the latter used to tell me that, until her twelfth year, having lived chiefly in a nunnery, she was truly una angiola ; "but," she added, " when I came into the Avorld, I saw that much of what I had been made to believe was una bagatella ; I saw I had MY HOME ABROAD. 233 been iraposed upon, and so I don't think much of the whole matter." A comraentary this upon anything like hood-winking in early education ! The mother earnestly sympathized with the past. Her nobilita, the shadowy remnant of forraer days, was her much-loved and constant theme. Her early and affectionate interest in rae was at first unaccountable, until I learned the romantic sentiments with Avhicli the very name of Ameri can was associated in her mind. Her ideas on this subject were derived, in no sraall degree, from the noA^els of the Seconda Valter Scott, as she called Cooper, the translations of which she had eagerly pondered ; and prejudice not a little strengthened her partiality, for she declared that the Italians were abused by the French, and de spised by the English. But there was yet an other cause for the good lady's maternal regard — for I was ever spoken of as nostra Enrichino, arid bambino di casa, epithets, as the Italian scholar is aware, of no small endearment — she had conceived the idea of raaking rae a Catholic ; and if she failed, I was learned a beautiful lesson in the art of proselyting, worthy of the pure spirit of Christianity. Methinks I see her now, that ardent votary of the church, as, her eye lighted up with fervent feeling, she poured forth, in raea- sured and liquid accents, her eloquent appeals. Nor can I recall but one instance when zeal be trayed her into an impatient expression. A Ca- 20* 234 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. puchin friar drew crowds to the cathedral, for many days of the holy week, and his harangues were the subject of general eulogium. His whole appearance betokened the practical devotee of the Romish faith. His coarse robe was girded about his waist by a rope, and the coavI being thrown far back, displayed- a countenance upon which care had traced, in Avithering lines, the marks of premature age ; the hair fell thinly over high temples, which shaded a face incessantly wear ing an expression of anxious despondency. He would walk to and fro, in the marble pulpit, ever and anon prostrating himself before a crucifix, and imploring inspiration, or lean over and ear nestly address his audience. To this priest the Countess woiUd fain persuade me to repair, that I might inquire and be enlightened. She" de scribed his benignant spirit, his self-sacrificing piety, and finally, his literary attainments. To evade the suggestion, I spoke of my compara tively slight acquaintance with the language, and my consequent indisposition to attempt contro versy with so finished a scholar. She surveyed me intently, and at length, half raournfuUy, half reproachfully, exclairaed, Ecco il diavolo. But the usual tenor of her efforts was so disinterested, and marked by such delicate consideration, that I respected, spontaneously, her advocacy of the views she deemed so vitally true and important Indeed, I loved to listen to the voice of so gentle MY HOME ABROAD. 235 a controversialist, modulated by the true spirit of human kindness, and inspired by an unaffected interest in a stranger's welfare. There was a delightful characteristic in these specimens of woman in Italy ; taste was subordi nate to sympathy. With all their love of the beautiful — the idea of suffering most iraraediately and permanently awakened their affections. They Avere never Aveary of descanting upon my prede cessor in the occupancy of their apartments ; and I soon discovered that it was the view of his tears shed over a letter, which revealed to thera the cause of his prevailing sadness, that first drew forth their kind regard. My quondara friend was one of that most, curious species of the genus homo, found in Italy — an artist, who had nur tured a natural propensity to silent musing by three years of loitering in the sunny air of Italia. Inexplicable to them was Avhat they called his melanconia, and vain ray asseverations that it was raerely a constitutional habit ; no — children of eraotion as they were, it was confidently re ferred to some disappointment of the affections, and all their kindly energies were bent to win my moody amico to hilarity. Nor were their efforts in vain. My lodgings soon becarae his favorite resort ; and few things drew him so effectually from his abstraction as the vivacious chat of ray affable hostesses. I have ever taken a kind of Epicurean delight in the observation of my species; but here, it was 236 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. intellectual character which had been promi nently displayed; there, I learned many a beautiful lesson in the chapter of human sentiment and feeling. The icy partition of cautious reserve through Avhich one is frequently obliged to mark the heart's workings in colder latitudes, is, in that genial region, dissolved by their very inten sity. I could sometimes almost fancy myself gazing through the vista of years upon a kind of primitive humanity, in beholding the responses of feeling vibrating so directly to the spell of music, the eloquence of art, or the impulse of poetic sen tiraent. I recognised, as never before. " That secret spirit of humanity, 'Which 'mid the calm oblivious tendencies Of nature, 'mid her plants and weeds and flowers, And silent overgrowings, still survives." Happily, then, was I located for experimenting in a new field of my favorite study. The Count ess instructed me in the enthusiasm of faith ; the Contessina in the poetry of life ; to the one I ex pressed my impressions of Italy as she is, and ray reverence for her as she was ; to the other I spoke of her absent betrothed, and brought votive offerings gleaned from the bouquets of the flower- girl. How have I seen them start, and pale as the solemn chant of the morte, or the toll ofthe Campanile, broke indistinctly upon the ear, amid the cheerfulness of our evening coteries! — how MY HOME ABROAD. 237 have I read the varying scenes of a drama typi fied in the raeaning and rapid changes of their expression ! Under their espionage did I wander through the verdant precincts of the palace garden and gaze upon the ceremonial and the fete, and they interpreted to me the local characteristics of the place and people. And so Aveeks and months glided on — how swiftly! Twice, in pre paration for departure, was my portmanteau taken from its dark corner; but it would not do. The Countess started back when she beheld it, with a sorrowful exclamation, and it was consigned to its former repose. At length the spring had fairly opened, and there was no excuse for delay. And shall I attempt to describe the feelings with which I left "my home abroad?" No, it were a vain endeavor — for it would require a full de lineation, with more than a painter's fidelity, of the several elements which combined to render it a home ; but, while all this is waived in detail, it is enbalmed in an affectionate meraory ; yet not altogether in vain, gentle reader, will you have taken this glimpse, if it serve to brighten in your mind severer portraitures of the Florentines of the nineteenth century. THE AMATEUR. •' There Art too shows, when Nature's beauty palls. Her sculptured marbles, and her pictured walls ; And there are forms in which they both conspire To whisper themes that know not how to tire ; The speaking ruins in that gentle clime Have but been hallowed by the hand of TimCj And each can mutely prompt some thought of flame' — The meanest stone is not without a name." As the chief intellectual infiuence of Italy is that of the fine arts, one of their prominent intellectual results is to render us amateurs. Observation is engrossed with forms and sounds ; the eye and ear evince a hitherto inexperienced capacity for enjoyment The music — the universal, meta physical music of the land — invites to the culti vation of the hearing powers, and the ever-pres ent forms of art lead to a practised attention of the visual organs; so that we find ourselves insensi bly draAvn from the study of social circumstances, to that of influences far more abstract, but from their intimate connection with, humanity, with genius, taste and feeling, not less rich in over- 240 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. powering interest It is indeed remarkable under how many different aspects the studious observa tion of the productions of art ministers to mental gratification. They raay be regarded with the eye of an artist, solely as illustrative of the vari ous schools, or as erabodying the true principles of his profession ; or, by the student of human nature, as affording a beautiful exposition of the several epochs in the history of the development of mind ; while the tasteful AJ'otary of letters de lights in comparing their distinctive characteris tics with those of the master-spirits of our race, whose thoughts, are.embodied in literature. The bold and sublime efforts of M. Angelo, the beauti ful expressiveness of Raphael, the mellow and rich pencillings of Claude, the wild genius of Salvator, and the highly finished style of Leo nardo, present to him striking and interesting analogies with what is familiar in the sister art of writing. It has been well observed, that the bases of these ayts touch each other. The genuine amateur, won by the attractions, and attached by a spontaneous and intelligent sympathy with the delicate dependencies and distinctions which enter into the composition of external symmetry, beauty and grandeur, gives himself to the study and enjoyment of the ab stract and embodied principles of art. In such an one, the first emotions of siraple pleasure have expanded into profound and inspiring interest, and the lights of acquired knowledge and im- THE AM.iTEUR. 241 proving judgment have redoubled the primitive sentiment of pleasure, derived frora these sources. Versed in the laws according to which all physi cal grace and beauty exist, accustomed to find pleasure in every object Avhich developes these, and ever quick to detect them wherever existent, the Avorld is to him full of enjoyment. Art's most glorious products are as cherished friends, ever awakening satisfaction, and affording conso lation : blest with innumerable visions of beauty, garnered from imagination's pencillings, under nature's tuition, and glowing with a deliberate enthusiasm, which has becorae an instinctive principle, hiraself is his greatest resource. Nor are such enjoyments without a favorable moral as Avell as intellectual benefit. The student and admirer of the noblest human productions, who has becorae such from native sentiment and dis criminating taste, is allied to his race by a new and interesting bond ; he may be said, with pe culiar truth, to love in humanity what is trvdy Avorthy of devoted affection: — her capacity of ex alted effort. And however vague and ill-sus tained such a feeling raay be abstractly, no regard can be more inteUigent and vivid, when cherished through the mediura of raind's raost hallowed fruits. These give life to and sustain, in the dev^oted mind, a free and grateful respect, the legitimate spring of genuine phUanthropy. The true amateur, then, least of all men, de serves the charge of unworthy selfishness. Few 21 242 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. obtain their ends with less expense to their fellow beings, or in the process of self-gratification, dif fuse happier influences. Perception and taste, in some form or other, are universal, and if uncor- rupted, whatever be their peculiarities, co-exist with a high and pure moral sense. Every raagnanimous spirit is rendered happy by the just appreciation of the results of mind, whatever be their character or origin. A mere general sentiment of approbation or censure in relation to remarkable works of huraan art, is unworthy a good understanding ; and while we rejoice in liberal judgraents on such subjects, dis- crirainating vicAvs are alone satisfactory. Hence the acknowledged raoral beauty of just criticism; it is the only true praise, the only improving censure. Happy, therefore, is it, that there are men so constituted as to find much of their hap piness in the noble duties of a genuine amateur; men who rejoice in the deliberate indulgence of their intellectual tastes raore than in devoting them, with a fatal exclusiveness, to the purposes of ambition ; who become, as it were, the high- priests of art, and in their studious and sincere devotion, waft the most acceptable incense to the spirit of genius. A GLIMPSE AT BASIL HALL. *' Give thy thoughts no tongue. Nor any unproportioned thought his act." At the palace of the prince Borghese in Rome, several young English and American artists were engaged in copying the renowned productions of the old masters. Portray to yourself, kind read er, two large halls, the walls of which are lined Avith paintings, and intercommunicating by a side- door, now thrown open for the benefit of the par ties. In the first of these apartments are erected three easels, before which, in the attitude of painters, stand — first a Virginian, intent upon the exquisite Magdalen of Correggio — 'opposite, the native of a country town of Great Britain, trans ferring, as nearly as possible, the Prodigal Son of the great Venetian — while, within a few feet of the former, a Londoner is travailing for the in spiration of Titian, by contemplating his " Sacred and Profane Loves." The artists may thus be said to occupy, relatively, the three points of an isosceles triangle. Gaze now, through the above- 244 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. raentioned passage, and behold, at the extremity of the second and lesser hall, the figure of a Bal- tiraorean — fancying, perchance, the surprise of the natives when they see his copy of the inimi table Cupid beside him. These worthy followers of the rainbow art were wont to amuse themselves, and beguile the time, with conversations upon the merits and manners of their respective countries ; and occa sionally, by a very natural process, such araica- ble debates would assumes not a little of the earnest spirit of controversy. Tljen would the brush fall less frequently upon the canvass, the eye linger less devotedly upon the great originals around, and, ever and anon, the disputants would step a pace or two from the object of their labors, raise aloft their pencils, as if, like the style of the an cients, they subserved equally the purposes of art and of warfare, or Avave their mottled palettes as shields against the arrows of argument. A full history of these discussions — hallowed by the scene of the combat, diversified by the characters of the corabatants, and dignified by the nature of the points contested — would doubtless be a valua ble accession to our literature. The great topics of national policy, domestic manners, republican ism, aristocracy, slavery, corn laws, &c., as un folded in the elegant and discerning disputations of the absentees in a Roman palace, would prove something new, vivid, and seasonable. But to me falls the humbler task of narrating one scene A GLIMPSE AT BASIL HALL. 245 of the drama, as illustrative of the wisdom and safety of the advice of Polonius. On a day Avhen the war of words had run un usually high, there was a momentary, and, as it were, a spontaneous quietude. After the manner of their predecessors in the same city, years by gone, the gladiators rested upon their arms. There Avas an interlude of silence. They gradu ally re-assumed the appropriate occupations of the hour ; and a few unusuaUy fine touches were be stowed upon the slowly-progressing copies, when the aspiring portrayer of the beautiful parable thus opened a new cannonade : " Well, smooth over, as you may, the blot of slavery, and deny or palliate, as you best can, the , charge of non-refinement, the world will never admit the existence of true civilization in a country where so barbaric a practice as gouging prevails." At the commencement of this speech, the pencil of the Virginian had stopped transfixed within an inch of the pensive countenance on his canvass; and with nerves braced in expectancy, he awaited the issue. And when the orator, like a second Brutus, paused for a reply, his adversary was mute — perhaps from indignation, probably in the absorption consequent upon preparing to refute and chastise. The Londoner wheeled around, and, with a nod of congratulation to his brother- islander, and a provoking and triumphant smile upon the Virginian, begged to be informed " of 21* i4 246 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. the origin and nature of the American custom of gouging?" When, lo ! there were heard quick steps along the polished floors, and as the eyes of the artists followed their direction, the form of the Baltimorean emerged from the adjoining hall. His painter's stick, palette, and brush, were grasped convulsively in his left hand, as with energetic strides he reached the centre of the arena, and gazed meaningly upon the disputants. "You would know, sir," he exclaimed, eyeing fiercely the hero of the British capital, " Avhat is gouging? ,Go, sir, to Basil Hall — your literary countryman; when ascending the Mississippi, he was put on shore by the captain of a steamboat for ungentleraanly deportraent — and on the banks of that river,-sir, he was gouged!" As the last emphatic words exploded, a gentleman, who had been viewing the paintings, abruptly left the room. The Londoner looked Avonders — his compatriot tittered— the Cupid-limner Aviped his brow. "Who was that?" inquired the Virginian. " That, sir, was Captain Hall ! " THE OPERA. '* Can it be said, that there is such an art as that of music for those wlio cannot feel enthusiasm ? Habit may render harmonious sounds as it were a necessary gratification to them, and they enjoy them as they admire the flavor of fruits" or the ornament of colors j'but bas their whole being vibrated and trembled responsively, like a lyre, if, at any time, the midnight silence has been broken by the song, or by any of those instruments which resemble the human voice? Have they in that moment felt the mystery of their existence, in that softening emotion which re-unites our separate natures, and blends in the same enjoyment the senses and the soul 1 " Were it only that the opera, like every national entertainment, is typical of the general taste, and in Italy affords the most free arena for talent, to an observant traveller it must be highly impor tant ; but it is by the strong constraint of earnest syrapathy that I dAvell upon its character and in fluences. In point of excellence, siraply as a popular diversion, it is unrivalled ; and the chief, if not the only exertion, which can be made to its detriment, springs from the deficiencies, not of the amuseraent, but of those to whose good it is designed to minister. For the want alike of that physical organization upon which the pleasure derivable from music depends, or of the sentiment 248 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. and feeling, according to which that pleasure is bounded, must equally be denorainated deficien cies, since they bar a species of gratification as refined as it is rich and absorbing. But it were indeed unjust to truth and human nature, to regard the opera, in its genuineness, solely as one of those means which the selfish in genuity of inan has contrived for occupying or even solacing the intervals of active existence. Its origin and legitimate intent are far higher and better; and although many may avail theraselves of it for purposes of convenience, or at the sug gestion of that restless craving for fashionable baubles, Avhich is the besetting sin of the thought less, there are, and must ever be, better spirits to whom justice will refer its claims. As a subject merely of specidation, the opera might be deemed an unphilosophical representa tion of humanity. As her raaster passions are ever developed at once and fervently, the idea of exhibiting them through the regular and mea sured medium of song, would seem essentially unnatural. Yet, as it is impossible in the drama to render the illusion complete — as in the most perfect efforts of the dramatist and the actor, the unreal is palpably evident — in adopting a more deliberate aud pre-determined form of expression, nothing of imitative exceUence is lost, while, in general effect, much is gained. In the opera, art and nature unite in their highest excellence. There is all the power of stage effect, the Ian- THE OPERA. 249 guage of gestures and expression, the conven tional paraphernalia of the theatre, with the super added power of the most expressive raelody — that of the human voice exerted to the highest point of its natural capacity, and cultivated by the in tervention of one of the most scientific and ardu ous of studies, to a degree almost incredible. If speech is the readiest means of moral expres sion, and what has been termed the natural lan guage the most unstudied and apposite, rausic, the breathing forth of the spirit in song, is the most spiritual, and therefore, more beautifully and dehcately typical of the varying emotions which inspire it. To this form of expression we turn not, indeed, in the most passionate moments of experience, but when to these the calmer raood has succeeded, when love begins to assurae the settled and deep character of a passion, when the shock of grief has given way to its calm sadness, and kindling hope slowly lessens the early heavi ness of disappointment, when the quiverings of indecision have becorae coraposed into clear fixed ness of purpose, and the sense of overwhelming joy is fast losing itself in the deep peace of con scious happiness — in such ultimate stages of the passions, when their restless elements have be come, in a measure, tranquillized, and their lan guage more deliberate, then is it Avont to pour itself forth in measured, but moving song. And if, in the opera, the limits of this natural order are occasionally exceeded, what is it but an 250 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. exercise of that poetical license, upon which even philosophy must contentedly smile ? The opera is the grand result of a general and discriminating passion for music. Without such a proximate cause, its existence is truly impossible. It is this which gives rise to and sustains, not only the institution, but that reraarkable and scarcely appreciated talent which is its vital principle. It has ever been raore or less the custora, even in the most civilized communities, to regard those individuals whose lives are devoted, and Avhose present happiness is invo!ved, in thus ministering to the general pleasure, with any sentiment rather than that of grateful respect. The evidence of this is to be found in the actual moral rank assigned to such a profession, and its cause is too often, doubtless, attributable to want of character in the members, and to that proverbial capricious ness which society ever evinces in relation to those professedly devoted to its diversion. The actual sympathy and respectful consideration cherished and manifested by the Italians for their favorite entertainment, and its worthy children, is most interestingly obA'-ious to a stranger. It is, too, delightful to observe the conduct, the effect, all the phenoraena of an Italian opera. Evening after evening we behold the sarae countenances intently studious of the performance, the same votaries luxuriating in melody, criticising intona tions—Epicureans at the banquet of Euterpe. So Avell regulated is the police, and so genuine THE OPERA. 251 and universal the taste for music, that order, attention and quiet are effectually secured. The audience, indeed, go thither to partake of an habitual gratification. No sound but a brava spoken, as by one deep voice during a momen tary pause, or the full burst of general approval, interrupts the pervading silence. And what the general wUl of a people supports, equally in the way of amuseraent as in the graver concerns of life, must bear the impress of national character, and for this, if for no other reason, should merit respect. This is singularly true in relation to the opera. Happy is that people whose taste has induced, whose discrimination has iraproved, and whose characteristic interest well sustains this morally beautiful entertainraent. To define justly the surpassing charms of Ital ian vocal music is indeed impossible ; and yet, if in so entrancing a pleasure as that derivable from this source, self-analysis be practicable, perhaps it wUl be discovered that in this, above most other species of melody, all the faculties are gratified. The ingenious combinations and intricate art de light the mental perceptions, its unanticipated variations and undiscernible power and facility of development captivate the imagination, while passion is excit'ed by the imperceptible encroach ments of its enchanting harmony over the empire of the heart. There is indeed a kind of univer sality in this singular, this unequalled vocalism. The heart often beats with eager enthusiasm. 252 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. Avhen the notes of martial music swell upon the air, an elevating sense of grandeur is awakened by the deep tones of a sacred choir, and a national air or household stave, by the force of association, will electrify the auditor. Yet some thing of all these effects, and something beyond and above all of them, can faithful introspection detect in the bosom agitated, soothed, inspired by the higher efforts of an Italian professor. To the susceptible s^wc^ew^ of its influences, the opera, in its perfection, is a poetical representation of the deep things of life — of those passions Avhich operate raost powerfully and universally in the huraan heart— of that mysterious and intricate connection between motive and action, sentiraent and thought, iraagination and truth, Avhich in its development, constitutes the living poetry of our being. Such an one understands the mental ex perience of Alfieri, who says that the plots of some of his best tragedies were conceived while listening to the grand opera. And what raedium like music — music with all its depth and pathos, all its subtlety and infinity of expression, all its spiritual magnetism — for portraying to the heart its own indescribable capacity of feeling ? And what an order of talent is that, which can suc cessfully wield the power of expression requisite for a genuine opera performer ! The votary of imaginative and intellectual happiness finds in this pleasure a satisfaction simUar in kind, though much more exalted, to THE OPERA. 253 that which the lover of physical science discovers in analyzing and corabining the eleraents of matter. There is the sarae eager delight, which springs frora the vivid knowledge acquired only by searching and successful experiraent ; but it is experiment upon self — not that which developes the anatomical relations of the body, but that which lays open, by a beautiful process of ex citation, the delicate machinery of the inner and unseen being; it is the yielding up of one's na tive sentiment to the heavenly sway of the deep est melody, till its eleraents dissolve and corabine in all the purest and raost perfect forras of emo tion. How palpable to the heart becomes its capacity of love, in all its endless raodifications ! and how keenly briUiant to the imagination shine its own magic energies, Avhen both are bathed, excited, dissolved within the liraitless scope of deeply undulating music ! 22 GREENOUGH. '• There be more things to greet the heart and eyes In Arno's dome of Art's most princely shrine,, AVhere sculpture with her rainbow sister vies." On one of the last afternoons preceding my era- barkation, I had sat a long hour opposite a strik ing, though by no means faithful, portrait of Greenough, while one of the fairest of his kindred spoke fondly of him, and charged me Avith many a message of love for the gifted absentee. On a table beneath the picture stood one of the earliest products of his chisel. I glanced from the coun tenance of the young sculptor, to the evidence of his dawning genius ; I listened to the story of his exile; and thenceforth he Avas enshrined high and brightly among the ideals of ray heart With rapid steps, therefore, the morning after my arri val in Florence, I threaded the narrow thorough fare, passed the gigantic cathedral, nor turned aside tUl, from the top of a long and quiet street, I discerned the archAvay which led to the domi- 256 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. cile of my countryraan. Associations arose within rae, such as the tirae-hallowed and novel objects around failed to inspire. There was something intensely interesting in the idea of visiting the isolated sanctum of a votary of sculpture, to one who was fresh from the stirring atmosphere of his native metropolis. Traversing the court and stairway, I could but scan the huge fragments of marble that lined them, ere entering a side door, I found myself in the presence of the artist. He was seated beside a platform, contemplating an unfinished model, which bore the impress of re cent moulding. In an adjoining apartment was the group of the Guardian Angel and Child — the countenances already radiant with distinctive and touching loveliness, and the limbs exhibiting their perfect contour, although the more graceful and delicate lines were as yet undeveloped. One by one I recognized the various plaster casts about the room — mementos of his former labors. My eye fell on a bust which awakened sea-pictures — the spars of an elegant craft, the lofty figure of a boatswain, the dignified bearing of a mysterious pilot It was the physiognomy of Cooper. And yon original, arch looking gentleinan ? Ah ! that can be no other than Francis Alexander. Surely those Adonis-Uke ringlets, so daintUy carved, belong to one whom it is most pleasing to remem ber as the writer of some exquisite verses under the signature of Roy. No one can mistake the benevolent features of Lafayette, or the expressive GREENOUGH. 257 image of the noble pilgrim-bard ; or fail to hnger in the corridor, over the embodiraent of one of his fairest creations — the figure of the dead Medora. In other studios of the land I beheld a raore nu merous and imposing array ; but in none could I discover more of thai individuality of design and execution Avhich characterises native intellectual results. Coleridge's favorite prescription for youthful atheism Avas love; on the same principle would Ave commend to the admiration of the scoffer at a spiritual philosophy, the unwavering and martyr like progress of genius toward its legitimate end. In this characteristic, the course of all gifted be ings agree. They have a raission to fulfil ; and lured betimes, as they may be, by the flowers of the Avay-side, and baffled awhile, as is the destiny of man, by vicissitude — from first to last the native impulse, the true direction, is everywhere discernible. In the case of Greenough, this defi- niteness of aim, this solemnity of determination, if we may so call it, is beautifully evident. The Avaxen carriages he wrought in the intervals of school discipline, the wooden cimeters he carved for his play-fellows, and his chalk statue of Wil liam Penn — the first absolute development of his taste — these efforts will serve as the " early indi cations " to which biographers are so partial. Often did he pay the penalty of tardiness, by lingering to gaze at a wooden eagle which sur mounted the gateway of an old edifice he daily 22* 258 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOlt. passed — thinking, as he told me, how beautiful it must be to carve such an one. But it was not untU boyhood was merged in youth, that the deep purpose of heart distinctly presented itself. Happy was it that at this critical moraent, an intellectual benefactor stood by to encourage and direct the youthful aspirant. Thrice happy for Greenough, that one equal to the appreciation of his raind, and able auspiciously to sway its ener gies, proved his friend. Such a Mentor he found in Washington Allston. And, in this connection, we cannot forbear hazarding the inquiry — Why has not the liberal discernment of our comraunity, ere this, given this distinguished artist the power of dispensing simUar benefits to others who might equally reward and honor the obligation? Will it not, at some future day, be considered one of the anoraalies of the times, that a highly gifted proficient in the philosophy of art was suffered to live, in comparative obscurity, Avithin hail of our richly endowed University, without that institu tion being favored with the results of his mind on this ennobling subject ? When Greenough arrived in Genoa he was yet in his minority. He entered a church. A statue, more perfect than he had ever beheld, met his eye. With Avonder he saw hundreds pass it by, without bestowing even a glance. He gazed in admiration on the work of art, and marked the careless crowd, tiU a ucav and painful train of thoughts was suggested. "What!" he soldo- GREENOUGH. 259 quized, " are the multitude so accustomed to beautiful statues that even this fails to excite their passing notice ? How presumptuous, then, in me, to hope to accomplish aught worthy of the art ! " He Avas deeply moved, as the distance between hira and the goal he had fondly hoped to reach, widened to his view; and concealing him self among the rubbish of a palace-yard, the young and ardent exile sought relief in tears. "O, genius!" I musingly exclaimed, as I went forth with this anecdote fresh from his lips, "how mysterious thou art ! And yet hoAv identical are the characteristics of thy children! Susceptible and self-distrusting, and yet vividly conscious of high endowments — mighty to execute and quick to feel — pressing on amid the Avinning voices of human allurements, or the wailing cry of human Aveakness and want — as pilgrims bent on an errand of raore than earthly import — ever pil grims through a night of diraness and trial, and yet ever beholding the star, hearing the angel- choir, and hastening on to worship !_" On one of the most delicious evenings of my sojourn, I accorapanied Greenough to the studio where he proposed to erect his statue of Wash ington. It was a pretty edifice, which had been formerly used as a chapel ; and from its commo dious size and retired situation, seemed adrairably adapted to his purpose. The softened effulgence of an Italian twilight gliraraered through the high windows, and the quiet of the house was 260 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. * invaded only by distant rural sourfds, and the rustling of the nearest foliage, in the new-born breeze. There was that in the scene and its suggestions which gratified .ray imagination. I thought of the long and soothing days of ap proaching summer, which my companion would devote, in this solitary and beautiful retreat, to his noble enterprize. I silently rejoiced, that the blessed ministry of nature would be around him, to solace, cheer and inspire, when his energies were bending to their glorious task ; that when weariness fell upon his spirit, he could step at once into the luxurious air, and look up to the deep green cypresses of Fiesole, or bare his brow to the mountain breeze, and find refreshment ; — that when doubt and perplexity baffled his zeal, he might gaze towards the palace roofs and church domes of Florence, and recall the trophies of art wrought out by travail, misgivings and care, that are garnered beneath them ; — that when his hope of success should grow faint, he might suspend the chisel's moveraent, raise his eye to the Avestern horizon, and reraeraber the land for which he toiled. Thus rausing, I perused the thoughtful coun tenance of the sculptor, and fancied the tenor of his reflections, as he stood thus on the appointed scene of his labors. Men conscious mereily of ordinary or selfish motives, can enter upon any undertaking with thoughtless alacrity ; but Avhen a human being is about to put forth his strength GREENOUGH. 261 for posterity — to embody an idea, sentiraent or theory dear to raan — Avhether it be in the flexible frarae-Avork of language, or the glowing delinea tion of the pencil, or whether he " fix thought, heart, soul, mind. To burn, to shine through the pale marble veins,'' he must be conscious, if in anywise worthy of his vocation, of profound solicitude, as well as high and hopeful aspirations. Such contending emotions I imagined were then at work in the generous bosom of my friend, and ardently did I hope for the triumph of the latter. May sculp ture smile upon her devotee of the new world ! may the benignant countenance of Washington beam with life-like vividness in the visions of the artist, and his image emerge nobly from its mar ble sleep, unspotted by any envious stain ! firm be the hand, and clear the spirit of the sculptor, till his great work be completed ; and long raay it stand, a proud monument to his genius. MODERN ITALY. " We admire thee now As we admire the beautiful in death. But why despair ? Twice hast thou lived already, Twice shone amid the nations of the earth As the sun shines among the lesser lights of heaven." The manners and morals of Italy, like the same characteristics of other countries, are sometimes condemned, Avithout discriraination, even by in teUigent as well as virtuous men. Yet not only should the general fact, that the intercourse of travellers is usually limited to the extreme exem plars of the population of a country, be kept in vieAV, in judging of character in Italy ; let it be also borne in mind that the choicest spirits of a nation, in such a political condition, are often found only in the shades of retirement at home, or enduring voluntary exile in a foreign land. "Character," says a distinguished authoress, "is an instinct ; it is raore aUied with nature than the understanding ; and yet circurastances alone give men the opportunity of developing it" And to 264 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. * the sojourner in Italy, who marks the unfolding of this instinct, where it is most truly and natively developed, in that inner tabernacle, of life which we call home, Avill be revealed such qualities of huraanity as are rarely, if ever, known in equal freshness and beauty. The raodern Italian character is far raore intimately associated, in my mind, with the raemory of acts and sympathies of rare urbanity and friendliness, than with the by-way speciraens of iraposition and mendicity, Avith whicli travellers seem to delight in interlarding their journals. He who, in estiraating character, attaches due importance to what have been philosophically denominated the affective powers, will scarcely dwell despair ingly upon the characteristics even of the present inhabitants of Italy. They are, in truth, the children of feeling. And hence we find the un educated peasantry and artisans appreciating and relishing, often most enthusiastically, the poetry and rausic of their country. The modification of Petrarch's sonnets, and their becoming popular siraply in an oral forra, is a phenomenon explica ble only on the ground of a national taste and enthusiasm. Nor have these general features ceased to be. Although "silent rows the songless gondolier," the stanzas of Tasso are not forgotten in Venice, nor does Ariosto cease to amuse the crowd on the Mole at Naples. If, therefore, one who mixes with the multitude, adapting himself sufficiently to their teraperament and modes of MODERN ITALY. 265 expression, Avho goes Avith them to the opera and the festival, and especially, is brought near them in the family, fails to discover and feel a remarka ble degree of the pure spirit of human brother hood, such as shall impress his heart and Avin him from his prejudices, we think his experience must be singularly unfortunate. Certain it is, indeed, that the intellectual charms, the religious graces, the native modesty, which are the glory of the American female character, are soraetiraes wanting ; and yet, in frequent in stances, one cannot but feel baffled in an attempt to point out their opposites. There is often a rich and perfect susceptibility, without any great depth of sentiment ; there is a spirit of affection ate kindness, but its extension is seemingly a kind of constitutional habit ; there is a pride without true dignity, and an open, playful, genu ine nature, which yet we are alraost persuaded, but for undoubted evidence, to brand as habitual aflectation. Let one iraagine loveliness corabined with unrestrained and unrestrainable spirit, illu mined with passionate feeling, and seconded by a language whose very accents are poetic, and a manner frank, and, frora its intrinsic peculiarities, intcTesting, and he may have a faint conception of an Italian beauty. Let him portray to himself a vivid and restless imagination, over Avhose magic- working energies no moral control presides, arid into whose brilliant images no meditative coloring enters, an intellect too active and inconstant for 2-3 266 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. intense or elevated action, a heart exquisitely alive to every faint impression of sympathy and love — in a word, a spirit ardent, unchastened by the perfect sentiment of religion, unnerved by the holy sinews of christian principle, and yet glow ing, restless and energetic — and he may arrive at an inadequate, but not incorrect idea of a species of female character in Italy. General manners and morals are, indeed, pro verbially too loose, not to merit the conderanation of the just observer. Hoav far this is ascribable to the political and physical peculiarities of the country, an unprejudiced man cannot easily de clare; while candor compels him to confess that these palliating causes exist. I have remarked, as a striking proof of the want of intellectual resources among the Italians, their sympathy for one who, from choice or necessity, is even tempo rarily solitary. And the importance which the mere conventional acts of life, and the occasional intervention of amusement, have acquired in their estimation, evinces the mournful absence of raore worthy and truly valuable eraployments, both for the tirae and intellect. Let it ever be remembered, in view of the present moral and social condition of Italy, how early the " fatal gift of beauty " provoked those predatory incursions which have so despoiled her shores, and neutralized her nationality. How often have the glittering ranks of an invading host gleamed, like a meteor of ill omen, amid the MODERN ITALY. 267 mists of that mountain barrier, Avhich nature has interposed betAAi-een her favorite land and the sur- Toundiug nations ! The history of Italy, in the middle ages, is a detail of successive contests, internal and foreign, the only result of Avhich seems to haA^e been the settling down of the political being of the Avhole country into a kind of hydra-despotism — a government shared by foreign princes, eccle siastical rulers, the inhabitants (and their rep- resentatiAres) of the several states. During the long twenty years of Napoleon's domination, whether enduring the horrors of famine in be sieged Genoa, sacrificing to the Moloch of war upon the plains of Lombardy, or sending the flower of her army to perish amid Russian snows, slie was courting martyrdora only to secure a change of masters, or minister to the^smbition of the ascendant. It is perhaps impossible, for a visitor of the present day, to realize that this land has indeed been the scene of such constant, severe and unsuccessful warfare. The peace which has been enjoyed by other countries of the globe — a peace iio less fruitful of general prosperity and general intellectual growth, than void of the ever active causes of commotion — with such a tranquillity Italy seems never to have been blessed. There are, indeed, few problems more difficult to solve satisfactorily, than that of the prospects of this country, as regards its vital interests. 268 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. The several states, if united and penetrated by a just revolutionary sentiment, would advance to- Avards independence as rapidly and certainly as the raoral circurastances of the people would per mit. But this is very far from the case, as the experience of the past and the aspect of the pres ent most clearly indicate. There is Austria, on one side, jealous of her foothold in this devoted land; and, perhaps, Of all their political sufferings, none is more galling to the Italians, than the insulting presence of Austrian soldiery — an evil which the Pope, as a measure of self-defence, is continually encouraging. Then the corroding internal divisions, which seem stronger and more baneful in proportion to the motives for union, are an awful barrier to the enfranchisement of the whole country. Such, too, is the power of the priesthood, and their influence over the women, that through them the existence of any liberal sentiment is almost iraraediately made known, and its extension prevented. Indeed, this mutual conspiracy, for, vicAved in reference to its opera tion, it merits no lighter name, between the two classes of community from which, according to nature and truth, the chief purifying influence should proceed, constitutes the spring which em bitters and undermines all excellence, individual and political. But a deeper cause, and one involving every other, is discoverable in the want of intelligence and moral sentiment eimong the people. In short, MODERN ITALY. 269 Avhile the liberalizing spirit and improving influ ences of the age have to some extent become diffused in Italy, while we see distinct indications of the decline of ecclesiastical power and igno rant superstition, and hear of the king of Naples visiting the English and French courts to gain experience in the art of good government, we cannot but feel that Italy is not yet virtuous enough to maintain the forms or evolve the moral glory of genuine national freedom. There are times Avhen the American visitor is simultaneously unpressed with the social and moral pre-eminence of his native land, and the local attractions of this ; and is thus led to think of them in comparison with each other. In such a view it is irapossible to lose sight of the several causes which have corabined to form the present moral atmosphere and intellectual spirit of the two countries. In Italy, ages of barbarism and warfare, gradually changing to a more refined existence, produced a brilliant period of chivalry and art, and then, araid despotic influences, acting upon a national constitution, and^ in a country, peculiarly exposed to their worst eflTects, brought in the present form of society. With us the bracing air of freedom, alive with the higher iinpulses to action, teeming with raoral raotive, elevating knowledge and religious enthusiasra, naturally created a raoral constitution presenting almost a complete contrast. What cause for wonder, if, destitute of a free arena, the ambition 270 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. of a young Italian of the present day is merged in a frivolous passion for arauseraent? — if, Avhen the sublime raotive of a national spirit is want ing, raen think Avithin the narrowest circle of huraan sympathies? — if the women, looked upon as the victims, and not aspired to as the honors of the other sex, cease to value the virtues which are their highest, but most unappreciated orna ments ? To many individuals, perhaps, the imaginative, the purely intellectuar character of the enjoy ments which attention and susceptibility may extract frora the scenes and agencies of Italy, is an objection. These characteristics are, indeed, at war with the ultra-utilitarian spirit of the age. Yet there is a vastness in that source of happi ness denominated the ideal, of which such cavil lers are unaware. Notwithstanding the capacity of suffering involved in a sensibility to this moral inciteraent, life would be alraost bereft of interest, were the fountains of imaginative enjoyment sealed to mortals. We know not, nor under the present condition of being can we know, how delicately, yet universally, sentiment mingles with and marks every pleasure of existence. Its commonest incidents, its familiar routine, not less than its exalted offices, insensibly imbibe and radiate a spiritual coloring — an interest not their own, in which consists the true secret of the delight they afford. MODERN ITALY. 271 There are few covmtries better calculated to nourish and bring out the latent ideal of existence than this, although here, as everywhere, its expansion must be aided. The great intellectual tendency of the legitimate influences of Italy is, indeed, to maintain the supremacy of taste, and to quicken the action of the sentiments. In younger and more agitated communities, there is much to excite a vigilant habit of observation, and develope native inteUigence ; and in scenes less environed by associations of almost universal interest, through a spirit of ambition or the bust ling zeal of general enterprise, the mental powers are variously and often vigorously unfolded. But in this, the absence of all occasion of iraraediate exciteraent from the agitation of any one of the great elements of society, and the comparatively narroAV circle in which the machinery of com merce and government move, are circumstances which serve to exhibit in broad relief those more intimate relations, and less conventional, and therefore more interesting influences, with which human society abounds. J' One is singularly uninterrupted in the endeav or to brighten into poetry Ihe pathway of his being. He is xindisturbed, nay, he is not unfre quently encouraged by the atmosphere in which he lives. Tranquillity of position — that pre-requi- site to the enjoyment of a poetical temperament — clears the Avay, and beautiful forms in nature, glorious productions of art, a passionate social 272 ITALIAN SKETCH BOOK. character, time-hallowed associations, a rhelodi- ous language, and the teerriirig presence of musical influences, are about him to feed the flame of that enthusiasm which ideahzes, and therefore enriches human nature. There is, surely, ground for moral satisfaction in thus scanning, under the excitement of sym pathy, the present scenes and intellectual influ ences of Italy. We stand among her ruins, eloquent of past greatness, and instinctively gaze around for a lingering ray of existing glory ; we contem plate, with impatient sadness, her palsied political being, and yearn to lose its memory in dwelling upon the tokens of mental prowess and imagina tive expansion ; and these we find in the beauty and perfection of her literature and art. There is something singularly consolatory in thus trac ing out a conservative principle from amid the insignia of decay and prostration. There is something quickening to the love of humanity, something which renews our faith in her pro gressive tendencies, in beholding the continuance, and feeling the power of an intellectual dominion, a heritage of mind, an empire over the heart, where the more external sway of the political sceptre has been most sadly subverted.