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The
Ogowe Band

A NARRATIVE OF AFRICAN
TRAVEL

Bv
JOSEPH H. READING
///
Late Secretary and Treasurer oe The Gaboon and Corisco
Mission and Acting Commercial Agent for
the U. S. oe America.

Philadelphia
Reading & Company, publishers
1019 cherry street
1890

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1890, by
JOSEPH H. READING
.In the Office of the librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C.

AU rights reserved

American Printing House
Printers and Engravers

TO THE MEMORY OF MY BELOVED
ASSOCIATE

Rev. C. DeHEER
THIS BOOK IS LOVINGLY DEDICATED

THE OGOWE BAND
By Joseph H. Reading

INTRODUCTORY

A BOOK to be heartily recommended this. I know
the writer. His pen has painted and painted
well his own experiences in Africa. One of the
persons whose death in that land is mentioned, Miss Dew-
snap, was a very dear early companion of mine.
The book abounds with charming pen pictures as
well as deeply interesting literal ones. There is "ever-so-
much" information about ocean travel, steamers, sailors,
whales, sharks, " sea-serpents," etc. There is a burial
at sea. The vessel touches at Madeira and the Canary Islands.
There are thrilling descriptions of rides down the moun
tain sides, two thousand feet !
Sierra Leone is described. Here's the way to keep
cool when the "hot wind" of that land blows; sit in an
earthen jar five feet high ! Need'nt look about for tele
graphs there ; the public opinion of monkeys has not yet
been educated up to this bit of civilization. They pull
the poles down as soon as set up, and dance upon them !

Our party stop at Bonny, at Bishop Crowther's, the
man whose history is quite as wonderful as fiction in some
respects. The drunkenness of the natives, or, as we would say,
the African saloon, the curse of curses, the cancer of all
lands ; the horrors of it — read and see and wonder how
Christian America can help on this horror by sending rum
to that land !
But there is a brighter side. We must visit Mr.
Reading's home and after a season of rest, he will show
us about the mission stations and let us see what Jesus is
doing, through His servants, among this degraded people,
to make them better and happier and prepared for "His
glorious appearing."
This book gives you the visit ; it puts you among
them. Now yoii look at their dress and wonder; you
taste their food, notice their "strange ways and get bits of
strangest history.
But it is Christinas now. There is a dinner at Mr.
Reading's missionary station. It is worth your journey
there to see the provisions and sit at this African-Amer
ican Christmas table. Having read this remarkable book,
you will want to read the second volume, which is almost
promised, about adventures among cannibals, pigmies,
etc., etc., etc.
Reading about this " Ogowe Band," and my thousand
Pansies who are in Missionary Societies will not want
for something to say or do in the meetings; and who
knows but some of my "Blossoms" will some bright day
sail away to Afric's shore to fill some Miss Dewsnap's
place, to lead those dark people into the light of God !
May this book lead to so blessed an end !
MRS. G. R. ALDEN.

PREFACE

ALL the characters in this book are real, true people,
and were living in the early part of this year
when the book was written ; but while it was going
through the press news came of the death of Mr. Brier, at
Batanga, and of Mr. Gilles and Mrs. Ross, at Old Calabar,
together with many others well known to the writer.
All the scenes and incidents portrayed in this book
are true, the only fiction consisting in making these the
experiences of the Ogowe Band instead of the author.
All the descriptions of scenery were copied from diaries
written upon the spot, and are as accurate as it is possible
to make them.
The illustrations were made expressly for this work
from photographs, many of which were taken by native
artists. The plan of the book has been to give a realistic
picture of West Africa, so that the reader may form a
correct idea of just how it looks to-day.
Many of my friends who know the Coast well will be
surprised at the omission of many things. It seemed to
me best to pass by in silence, at least as far as possible, the
deep shadow of moral evil which rests like a pall over
African life, foreign as well as native. Let us hope that
the Sun of Righteousness which is now rising over that
dark land, may soon fill the whole vast continent with the
light of heaven — with purity and love !
J. H. R.
Philadelphia, October, 1890.

CONTENTS

Chapter I — Voyage to Liverpool,
" II — Liverpool,
" III— Madeira,
" IV— Canary Islands, .
" v — Tropical Voyaging,
" VI — Sierra Leone and Liberia,
" • VII — Ivory Coast and Gold Coast, .
" VIII- — Bonny and Fernando Po,
IX— Old Calabar, ....
" X — Kamerun and Eloby,
" XI— Arrival at Gaboon,
" XII — Baraka and Gaboon,
" XIII— Church Work at Gaboon,
" XIV — Nomba and Ovendo Point,
" XV — Picnic Excursion to Sandy Point,
" XVI— Benita, 
" XVII — Bata, Evuni, Batanga, .
" XVIII— Return to Gaboon,

LIST OF FULL PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS

Frontispiece A Tropic Home
Chapter I Atlantic-Liner, "Lord Gough"
Landing Stage, Liverpool
Northwestern Hotel, Liverpool
Chapter II South Castle Street, Liverpool
Outer Line of Docks, Liverpool
Inner Line of Docks, Liverpool
Princess Park, Liverpool
Chapter III City of Funchal, Madeira
Landing Place at Funchal
Madeira Carriage
A Street in Funchal, Madeira
Chapter IV Funchal from the Mountain Side
Las Palmas, Grand Canary
Date Palm, Grand Canary
Chapter V Lou Rock, Madeira
Native Women, Gold Coast
Lady of High Rank, Old Calabar

Chapter VI Regent Street, Sierra Leone
Native Village near Axim
Mission House, Axim
Chapter VII Elmina, Gold Coast
Cemetery at Elmina
Cape Coast Castle, Gold Coast
Accra, Gold Coast
Chapter VIII Canoe on the Bonny River
Trading Hulk, Bonny
" My Name he be Pea Soup "
Chapter IX Foreign Settlement, Old Calabar
Interior of Palm Oil Factory
Native Town, Old Calabar River
Mission House, Old Calabar
Chapter X Government House, Kamerun
A bit of Kamerun Beach, Low Tide
A bit of Kamerun Beach, High Tide
The Nubia at anchor in the Kamerun River
Chapter XI Eloby, Corisco Bay
Baraka Mission Station, Gaboon
Mrs. Joseph H. Reading
Chapter XII Little Lizzie
Miss Susie Dewsnap
Road-making in Gaboon
Mr. Reading's Little Carriage

Chapter XIII "Good Old Uncle" Adande
Mpongwe Women, Gaboon
Catholic Mission, Gaboon
African Paper Money
Chapter XIV Gaboon River Village
An African Belle
An African King
Chapter XV French Trading Factory, Gaboon
Gardener's House, Gaboon
Palm Oil ready for shipment
Native Women, Accra
Chapter XVI Church and School-house, Corisco
Mbade Station, Benita River
Mr. DeHeer's Church, Bolondo
Scene on the Benita River
Chapter XVII Rev. B.-B. Brier
Mrs. B. B. Brier
Waterfall at Batanga
Native Trader, Old Calabar
Chapter XVIII Church built by Mr. Reading
Interior of new Church, Gaboon
Scotch Mission Church, Old Calabar

ATLANTIC-LINER, LORD GOUGH'

The Ogowe Band.
Chapter I.

VOYAGE TO LIVERPOOL.

'HERE was bustle and excitement on the
Pennsylvania railroad pier at the foot of
Catharine street, Philadelphia. Quite a
crowd had gathered ; some in groups with
serious faces, others rushing around looking
for stray pieces of baggage, while carriages constantly
arriving brought their occupants to swell the throng.
Just outside the shed was the four-masted Atlantic-
liner " Lord Gough," the smoke curling upward from
her great funnel and the steam blowing off as if to say
"I am ready for a struggle with the storms." Mountains
of liiggage, and drays laden with sacks of mail, drove up
to the forward gang-plank and were soon transferred to the
steamer. Near the outer end of the shed, in the midst of a
large circle of friends, were the Ogowe Mission Band, the
subjects of. this story. They were a lively set of young
people, six young masters and six misses ; and they hardly
knew whether to laugh or cry, as they looked out at the
great steamer with all the strange adventures before them,

VOYAGE TO LIVERPOOL
and then at the dear ones gathered to say "good-bye,"
whom they could hardly hope to see for a year at least.
Just then a tall, middle-aged, kindly-faced gentleman
alighted from a carriage, and walked quickly up the pier.
This was Judge McGee, the gentleman who was to take
charge of the gay little voyagers and guide them through
the strange lands beyond the sea. He was warmly greeted
by Miss Laura B. Cadmus, the leader of the band, and
introduced to the fathers, mothers and other friends ; he
needed no introduction to the little travelers themselves,
for he had several times addressed the band, and they both
knew and loved him.
Kathleen, Miss Cadmus' maid, looked at the Judge
askance, and exclaimed : " Sure and is this the gintleman
that is after taking the darlints to Afriky?"
On being assured it was, she expressed the hope that
the white bears and gorillas would not carry the dear
children away, nor the Pagans roast them and serve them
up for supper. The fog-horn of the steamer now blew a
blast and an officer called in a loud voice : " All ashore
who are not going."
"Come," said the Judge, " it is time for us to go on
board." In a few minutes the whistle sounded again, the gang
plank was drawn ashore, the lines were loosened, and the
great ship turned slowly away from the pier.
The warm-hearted Kathleen was much affected ; she
wiped her eyes with a corner of her shawl and flung an old
shoe after the "darlints." "Sure," said she, "and I hope
the horrid haythens won't eat them for supper at all, at all."
A large tug now made fast to the stern of the steamer,
and two more to the bow. They pulled and puffed with
all theii might, and presently the great ship was fairly out

VOYAGE TO LIVERPOOL
in the channel with her bow pointing down stream ; the
engines began to turn slowly, the tugs cast off their lines,
the small cannon on the forecastle fired a salute, and the
momentous voyage was begun.
Our little travelers stood on the promenade deck,
which on the Lord Gough was in the middle of the ship,
and waved their handkerchiefs at the dear ones on the
pier until a turn in the river hid them from sight. Wav
ing was not the only use to which their handkerchiefs
were put ; but after all, a good cry does one good, as the
Ogowe Band found to be true in their case.
Judge McGee left them to their tears a little while,
and then, after a few words of comfort, called their atten
tion to the scenes about them, and it was not long before
they had recovered their usual spirits.
It was a glorious September day, and as the start had
been an early one in order to get the benefit of the tide,
it was now not more than nine o'clock. They were just
passing Chester where vessels in various stages of con
struction were seen near the river bank. By and by the
river began to widen, and by noon they were abreast of
the Delaware Breakwater. Here the steamer came to a
standstill, a small boat came along-side and the pilot
climbed over the side and down into it, the gangway pas
sage was closed, the engines began to throb, the Lord
Gough turned her prow to the eastward, and the sandy
shores of Delaware and New Jersey gradually sank be
neath the water.
The bell now rang for one o'clock lunch and the
Ogowe Band lost no time in finding their way to the din
ing-room. There were but few other passengers and there was
abundant room and plenty of food for everybody. The

VOYAGE TO LIVERPOOL
Captain sat at the head of the table and the purser at the
foot, while the passengers occupied those places that had
been reserved for them by the steward. The Judge and
his young companions were seated next to the Captain,
whom they found to be as jolly and good-natured as a
captain could well be.
After lunch, at the Captain's suggestion, the little
travelers arranged their state rooms ; opening their port
manteaus and placing those articles they were likely to
use where they would be handy. When this was done
they took light wraps and soft caps and went up on deck.
Here comfortable chairs had been placed in a cosy spot
sheltered from the wind, and they sat down to spend the
afternoon. Overhead was the immense blue dome of the
sky filled with ten thousand joyous, fleecy clouds ; beneath
and around were the waters of the ocean ; the sun shone
brightly, and the fresh clear air was delightful.
Very soon the Captain joined them, and the little
folks fired questions at him almost faster than he could
answer them. He told them that usually the water for a
hundred miles or so from shore was not rough enough to
affect a large steamer like the Lord Gough, " for," said
he, "the prevailing winds are from the west and they do
not stir the water to its depths much short of a hundred
miles out." This explained why the steamer was as
steady as it had been in the river.
The conversation then turned upon life on ship
board. "Life on a steamship at sea," said the Captain,
"has many peculiarities. The ship is a world in itself,
and the bounds are narrow. You see the same faces day
after day, and on a great ocean like the Atlantic there is
little to attract the attention outside of the vessel that car
ries you."

VOYAGE TO LIVERPOOL
"Yes," said the Judge, "one falls into a monotonous
way of life, and the days run on one after another, till you
find it difficult to distinguish them."
" I have heard, Captain," said Willie Richman, " that
sailors are very superstitious, is that so?"
"Yes," said Captain Hughes, "they are a queer lot.
I remember some years ago I commanded a large sailing
ship in the California trade. We were about three weeks
out from Liverpool when the mate reported that one of the
men was sick. I went to see him and found the poor fel
low was likely to die. I knew little about diseases or how
to cure them, but the sailors were watching to see what the
' old man ' would do, and I saw that, to save my reputa
tion, I must do my best. So I opened the medicine chest
and took out all the bottles. These I divided into two
parts, the dry medicines and the liquid ones. I then took
some of each of the dry medicines and mixed them all
together, and from this mixture I made some powders.
In like manner I poured out into a bottle some of each
of the liquid medicines and when I had well shaken the
bottle, to thoroughly mix the ingredients, I ordered a tea-
spoonful given the sick man every two hours, and at the
alternate hours one of the powders.
" I reasoned in this way : in that lot of medicine there
must be something suited to this case and although I do
not know which one it is, in this way he will surely get
it. My logic must have been correct, for the man got
well. After that whenever a man was sick he would take
nothing but the drops and powders, and I never lost a pa
tient, which is more than any doctor can say."
The conversation flowed on in a steady stream and
the afternoon passed almost before they knew it. At
half-past five the steward rang a bell which the Captain

VOYAGE TO LIVERPOOL
told them was a signal to get ready for dinner, so they
picked up their wraps and went to their rooms to arrange
their toilets.
On all English steamers a cup of coffee or tea, with
a little toast, is brought to your room at six in the morn
ing. At half-past eight there is breakfast in the saloon,
which most American travelers think is the best meal of
the day; partly, perhaps, because the cooking for that
meal is more like the American style. Lunch comes at
one P. m., and dinner at six, while tea — toast and jam — is
served at nine o'clock to those who call for it.
Dinner is the great meal of the day ; there are sev
eral courses and every person who has a right to eat in
the saloon is expected to be present and to be dressed in
their best. Not all who are on board can eat in the sa
loon ; this privilege is exclusively reserved for the officers
of the ship and the saloon passengers. The sailors eat in
the forecastle; the engineers in a mess room of their own,
and the stewards in the pantry.
There is a feeling on board ship that the stewards
live on the best the ship affords. An old captain once said,
"Whenever I want something specially good, I tell my
boys to hang around and watch to see what the stewards
are going to have, and then bring me some." Whether
or no this might be true, our little travelers could not tell,
but they came to the conclusion that the stewards were a
good-natured, hard-working set of people who never ap
peared to have time to sleep or rest, and they were sorry
to notice that sometimes passengers spoke roughly to
them. The next morning the Ogowe Band were on deck in
good season, and a lovely morning it was. The sun was
about an hour high, and its bright rays were beginning to

VOYAGE TO LIVERPOOL
warm the cool, fresh air. They romped about the deck and
had a real jolly time. The Judge took a hand in the fun
and for the time was apparently as young as any of them.
Suddenly Robbie Campbell cried out, "O, look at
that!" Everybody turned their eyes in the direction indi
cated and saw at some distance from the ship a small col
umn of water rise to the height of seven or eight feet.
"Why," said Lulu Wright, "it looks just like pict
ures I have seen of whales."
"Yes," said Captain Hughes, who at that moment
joined the party, " it is a whale." As he spoke the whale
raised himself partly out of the water, gave his tail a flirt,
and disappeared in the depths of the ocean.
Frank Harris asked why it was that the whale
spouted up this column of water.
Captain Hughes explained, "The whale is not a fish,
but a warm-blooded animal like a cow or horse, and must
breathe the air just as we do. He takes a certain amount
of water into his lungs along with the air, and when he
throws it out it makes the spray you have seen, which
sailors call a spout."
After breakfast whaling stories were in order. Grace
Thompson asked if this was the kind of whale that swal
lowed Jonah.
The Judge told them that so far as known there were
no whales in the Mediterranean ; that the word in the
original, translated "whale," means a "sea monster," and
that no one knew certainly just what kind of a sea-mon
ster it was that swallowed the prophet.
" Well," exclaimed Jessie Williams, " I don't under
stand it anyway. How did Jonah get his breath for those
three days and nights; a whale don't breathe into his
stomach?"

VOYAGE TO LIVERPOOL
J The Judge .replied, that it was easy to . ask questions
that no one could answer. " This event," said he, '.' was
a miracle, and .cannot be explained by the operation of
natural law." .
" What is a miracle? ". asked Hattie Clark.
"A miracle," replied the Judge, " is a wonderful effect,
superior or contrary to'the laws of nature, and performed
alone by the power. of God."
He then went on to explain, to them that' God
works in a uniform manner to produce the events he
designs shall come to. pass, and these "Uniform modes of
the divine. operation are called "natural laws," or the-
"laws of nature;", that sometimes,; in order to attract
the special attention of his creatures to some revelation
he is about to make, he. departs from his usual mode and
produces an effect in some other way. This is called a
miracle. It is no more wonderful than the events which
occur every day about us, but it is unusual, and so causes
remark. In the afternoon the wind freshened,, and the rolling
motion of the ship was not altogether agreeable to the
; inexperienced voyagers. They were about to have a- little
taste of sea sickness, and from the appearance of: their faces
it was evident that it did not taste good. They lay about
the deck in warm places where they were sheltered: from the
wind, and neither cared- to talk or be talked to. But their
malady did not last long, and by the next morning they
were; as merry as ever.
They asked the Judge to explain the cause of their
trouble, but i he shook his. head*. and. said :it!was, a 'great
puzzle. ' "The niore I study' it, said he, "the less I seem
to understand it. As nearly as I can tell, it is a disease of
the brain ; or, to be more correct, a disturbance of the

LANDING STAGE, LIVERPOOL

VOYAGE TO LIVERPOOL
cerebral action, brought about by an unusual motion of
the body." " Is there no cure for it?" asked Grant Hillman.
" None that I know of," replied the Judge, " except
to keep away from the water."
" To lessen its effects two opposite lines of treatment
have been suggested ; one to stimulate the brain, and the
other to depress its action. As the brain is a very delicate
organ, both these plans are dangerous. It is best to lie
quiet and take nothing unless the attack is very severe,
and then call a physician."
The ship's Doctor confirmed the Judge's opinion, and
stated that he gave but little medicine in cases of sea
sickness, and what little he gave was of a mild character.
Ten days after leaving Philadelphia some dark specks
appeared on the Eastern horizon. They grew larger and
larger until it was plain to be seen they were great brown
rocks. The young voyagers were much excited at behold
ing the first land of the Old World. Captain Hughes
explained that the rock on the extreme right was Fastnet,
and the others Cape Clear and the headlands about Bantry
Bay. The band gave three cheers for Ireland, and could
scarcely be prevailed upon to go into the saloon for
breakfast. About eleven o'clock the Lord Gough passed between
Fastnet Rock and the main-land, and from that time the
coast of Ireland was in full view throughout the day.
Having heard so much of the " Emerald Isle," they
expected to see it "as green as grass," as Jessie Williams
expressed it. What they did see was great brown, rocky
headlands, with little bays between them. The ground
was high and appeared barren. The surf beat upon the
beach, and especially upon the rocky cliffs, with great

VOYAGE TO LIVERPOOL
force, sending the spray high up in the air. The Captain
called it an iron-bound coast, and said that many a gallant
ship had been driven ashore and broken upon these rocks.
Now and then a few stone buildings or a lighthouse were
seen, and at Crook Haven signals were hoisted on the fore
mast and mainmast to let the people on shore know that
the Lord Gough was passing and would call that evening
at Queenstown. The news would then be sent ahead by
telegraph and a tender would be in waiting when they
arrived off the entrance to Cork Harbor.
At four o'clock they passed the Old Head of Kinsale,
one of the sternest and most picturesque headlands on the
coast, and in less than an hour the engines stopped their
throbbing and the vessel came to a standstill opposite the
narrow entrance to Cork Harbor. Our young tourists
were deeply interested in all they saw*, and their tongues
rattled away at a lively rate. Lighthouses crowned the
hills on either side the entrance ; just beyond them, where
the ground was higher, were forts, while at the farther end of
the bay, Queenstown could be plainly seen nestled closely
by the water-side.
An open-deck, paddle-wheel steamer came cautiously
alongside the Lord Gough aud was made fast with ropes.
A wide gangway was run across to the steamer's deck, and
some of the passengers and all the mails were transferred
to the tender, as the paddle-wheel steamer was called.
"Why are the mails put off here?" inquired Lulu
Wright, " I thought they were for England."
" So they are," replied the Judge, " they will be in
London by the time we get to Liverpool."
" How is that? " exclaimed several voices at once.
The Judge explained that railway trains could go
much faster than steamers. " A fast train," said he, " is

VOYAGE TO LIVERPOOL
waiting for these mails there at Queenstown. It will take
them on to Kingston, where a boat that makes twenty-one
miles an hour will take them over to Holyhead in Wales ;
from Holyhead they will go to London on the " Wild
Irishman," a train that runs at the rate of a mile a
minute. The thought of such speed fairly took the young
people's breath away, and they were quite content to go
by a slower route.
The men who carried the mail sacks worked with a
with a will, and in half an hour they were transferred to
the tender. The lines that held her to the Lord Gough
were cast off, and she turned away towards Queenstown,
while the Atlantic-liner moved on her way up the Channel.
Our young voyagers were thoroughly stirred by all
they had seen, and the conversation during the evening
was both animated and prolonged. About ten o'clock
they went out on deck for a few minutes. They were not
often allowed to sit up so late, for their kind friend, the
Judge, believed in early hours for both young people and
old; but this was no ordinary occasion, and the usual rule
was suspended. The stars were shining brightly overhead, and the
light on Tuskar Rock could plainly be seen on the port
bow. Captain Hughes told them that when they reached
that light they would cross the Channel over to the Welsh
coast and they would see no more of Ireland. He also
told them that he would be up all night, for when they
were near land it was the Captain's duty to be always on
the bridge. The Ogowe Band slept little that night, at least so
they thought, but it is probable their dreams and waking
thoughts were so mingled in their consciousness they did

VOYAGE TO LIVERPOOL
not distinguish clearly between them. At any rate
they were up early and the -first thing they saw^ on
looking out of their port-holes, was land.; This time,
however, it was on the right, or starboard side of the
ship, and not on the: port side as it had been yesterday.
The chief steward told them that was just the difference
between the English and the Irish ; the Irish always got
"left." "At any rate," said he, " most of them have left
Ireland, for there are more Irish in England and America
than in Ireland, and more Irish in London than in
Dublin." When the bright little voyagers reached the deck they
found thesteamer was just passing Holyhead and they were
surprised to see what a rocky place it was. The shores of
the Old World, so far as they had yet seen them, were quite
in contrast with: the low sandy coasts of Long Island and
New Jersey. Many vessels were in sight both going up
and down the Channel. It surprised them that sailing
ships could go in opposite directions at the same time.
"I thought," said Willie Richman, "that a ship
could only sail the same way the wind blows."
Judge McGee tried to : explain to them how it was,
but they did not come to a very clear understanding of it
That it could be done was evident, and so far as the young
people could see, the sailing vessels got along as well as
the steamers, only not so rapidly.
Large numbers of sea-gulls flew about the steamer,
often so near as to -be almost within reach. Whenever
refuse was thrown from the ship, they settled down upon
the water seeking for such scraps of food as they might
find, and in this way got their breakfast.
They arrived at the bar off the mouth of the Mersey
at lunch time, and were obliged to anchor. Captain

NORTHWESTERN HOTEL, LIVERPOOL

VOYAGE TO LIVERPOOL
Hughes explained to them that the rise and fall of the tide
here was from twenty-three to twenty-seven feet, and that
large steamers could not go in and out of the river at low
tide. " The tide," said he, " is rising now, and we will not
have to wait very long." Sure enough, by three o'clock
the anchor was up and they were steaming slowly into
the greatest sea-port of the world.
As they drew near the city the sight that greeted
their eyes was one never to be forgotten. The river was
full of steamers and vessels of all kinds, and on both
sides, as far as the eye could reach, was a forest of masts
shut in by the lofty walls of the docks.
Presently a tender, like the one they had seen at
Queenstown, came alongside and the health and customs
officials scrambled on board. It was not long before a
gang-plank was run out and the trunks and other baggage
carried to the tender; then our friends said "good-bye" to
Captain Hughes and his kind officers, and with sincere
regret they left their floating home that had borne them
safely over the broad Atlantic, and turned their faces
toward the city in which they were to spend the next few
days. While at anchor outside of the bar, Captain Hughes
had told them that vessels could only go in and out of
dock at the very top of high water, and that the gates
were open only about an hour every day and every night.
The great Atlantic-liners go into dock near the North End,
some three or four miles from the centre of the city. The
officers must stay with their ship until she has made fast
to the pier. Sometimes the captain leaves the vessel in
charge of the mate, and goes ashore with the passengers ;
in this instance Captain Hughes preferred to remain on
board.

13

VOYAGE TO LIVERPOOL
A run of a few minutes brought the tender to the
Prince's Landing Stage, an immense floating structure
anchored close to the outer wall of one of the docks, and
connected with this wall by four covered bridges. This
stage rises and falls with the tide, so that the bridges are
sometimes level and sometimes steeply inclined, accord
ing as the tide is high or low. Upon the stage are waiting-
rooms, a restaurant, and houses where baggage is exam
ined by the customs officers. This examination is not a
very rigid one, and if travelers will only keep their
tempers and be good-natured they will have no trouble.
As the Judge was always good-natured he was soon
through, and the sturdy porters carried everything up to
the pier-head where a cart was engaged to take it to the
hotel. There are no baggage express companies in the Old
World, and the care of one's "impedimenta" is greater
than it is in America. Cabs were standing in a line wait
ing for customers ; three of these were engaged and they
were soon rattling up Water and Dale streets to the North
western Hotel, where they were to make their home while
in Liverpool.

M

Chapter II.

LIVERPOOL.

¥HE cabs drew up in front of the main
entrance of the hotel, and a porter in livery
came out to assist them in alighting and to
carry in their wraps. The Ogowe Band
knew little of hotel life, so that all they saw
was a new experience to them. Judge McGee stepped to
the office to register their names, while the young people
warmed themselves at the open grate in the rotunda and
gazed about them.
The elevator could not accommodate so large a party,
so the Judge and the young ladies went in it, while the
boys and two of the porters climbed the broad staircase.
The party took rooms on the third floor. This they found
was not the third floor from the ground, but the third
floor above the ground. The ground floor is not counted,
as with us. The rooms they occupied have curved-top
windows, as seen in the picture.
After bathing their hands and faces and arranging
their toilets, they came down to supper, or as the English
call it, " tea." With the English, " supper " is a meal
15

LIVERPOOL
taken late in the night, as for instance, after the close of
the theatre or opera.
The dining-room is on the ground floor, on the right
of the illustration, and the cart that brought our young
travelers' baggage is seen near the front entrance of the
hotel. It has four wheels, and with us would be called a
" truck." After tea, the young folks wanted to go out on the
streets and see some of the sights of the town, but Judge
McGee would not consent. He thought they had seen
enough for one day, and advised a quiet evening and a
good night's rest. So they adjourned to the drawing-
room, seen on the left in the illustration — and gathered in
a cozy group by the front windows.
Before them was Great George's Hall, an imposing
pile of architecture, in which the city courts are held ;
there is also a large organ and a concert room. In the
paved court in front were equestrian statues of Queen
Victoria, and her husband, Prince Albert. Two stone
lions guarded the entrance. As all the places of amuse
ment are near the hotel, the street was full of people.
Grant Hillman said he could not see that the people
looked like foreigners ; he thought" they looked more like
Americans than the people one sometimes sees in our own
cities. "Well," said Frank Harris, "so they ought, for
Americans are English, while our cities are full of emi
grants, from all parts of the earth."
" O L" exclaimed Johnny Ashton, " look af that street
car, it's a double-decker ! "
Sure, enough it was. A circular stairway led from
the rear platform to the top, where two seats were arranged
lengthwise in the middle. The passengers sat back to
16

SOUTH CASTLE STREET, LIVERPOOL

LIVERPOOL
back facing the walk on either side of the street. Grace
Thompson thought it would be splendid to ride that way,
and the Judge promised them that they should on the
morrow, if the weather was fair.
" Now," said he, " this may be a good time to learn
that English people call many things by different names
from what we do."
" Yes," said Robbie Campbell, " I noticed on the
landing stage the porters said ' luggage ' instead of
baggage." "Do they call a passenger elevator a ' lift ?' " asked
Mamie Belville.
"Yes," replied Judge McGee, " and a street car here
is called a ' tram,' while the track it runs on is a tramway."
" Hereafter, while abroad, we will adopt English terms so
we may be understood."
" Did you notice," said Frank Harris, " that the
clerks in the hotel office were ladies?"
" Yes," added the Judge, " and the manager is a
woman ; you might almost be sure of it by the neatness
and order in everything about the house."
" And the quietness too," said Jessie Williams.
" I thought," said Willie Richman, " that the man
who met us when we first came in was the owner ; he was
dressed so fine and had such a grand air, just as I would
expect a man to have who owned and lived in a grand
building like this."
Judge McGee smiled. " That man," he replied, "was
the head porter, but I do not wonder you thought him a
great man ; he is, in his way, and as things go in this
country, he is both Useful and necessary." He then went
on to explain to the Band that this hotel belonged to the
London & Northwestern Railway, a great corporation like
ii - 17

LIVERPOOL
our own Pennsylvania R. R., and that the railway station
for London and all parts of England and Scotland was
back of the hotel. Indeed, the hotel might be called the
front of the station.
"Can we go and see the station?" asked Johnny
Ashton. " I should like so much to see it," exclaimed Lulu
Wright. This desire was echoed by the entire Band, so the
good-natured Judge took them out to the platform where
trains were awaiting the time to start for London, Man
chester, Edinburgh and other places.
The young people were not long in finding out the
difference between an English and American railway sta
tion. They found the cars divided into three compart
ments, with the doors in the sides of the cars. Each
compartment had two seats as in a street-car at home, and
on the outside it said, "First class," "Second class" and
"Third class."
The Judge told them they were now in a land of class
distinctions, and this classification extended even to rail
way carriages ; "for," said he, "these are not 'cars' but
'carriages.' The engine is called a 'horse,' the engineer
a 'driver,' the fireman a 'stoker,' and the conductor a
' guard. ' These names have come down from the old stage
coach days and are now applied to railroading."
The boys noticed there was no cab to the engine, so
that both driver and stoker stood right out doors in the
sun and rain. After looking around awhile they returned
to the drawing-room, and after the Judge had called a
waiter and given orders for breakfast, they went up stairs
to their rooms, and it was not long before they were in the
land of dreams.

is

LIVERPOOL
The next morning the Ogowe Band were not long
in making a discovery, viz : that the English people did
not get up very early in the morning. Here on this
bright September day no one scarcely was to be seen in
the street at eight o'clock, and the few persons to be seen
about the hotel appeared to be half asleep. The eager
ness of our young friends to see the city, doubtless made
them a little impatient, and yet it is true that the English
are not very early risers.
Breakfast had been ordered for half-past eight. While
they were eating, Judge McGee told them he had letters
of introduction to Messrs. Alexander & Christie, at 64
South Castle street, and proposed they should walk there
after breakfast; "for," said he, "it is not much over half
a mile, and this is just the kind of morning for walking."
At half-past nine they sallied forth, and a merry party
they were. They went down Lime street, and turning to
the right found themselves in front of St. John's Market,
the principal market-house in Liverpool. Most of the
girls had gone marketing with their mothers in Philadel
phia and they were curious to know what an English
market was like, so they all went in.
They found it much larger than any in their own
city, but in its main features it was much the same. There
was a fine display of flowers and a small one of fruit. What
fruit there was for sale was of fine appearance, but high
priced. Three large pine-apples attracted the boys' atten
tion ; Grant Hillman pointed to the largest and asked
how much it was. The market-man said something
about its being a pound, and Grant asked how much it
was a pound. The dealer looked at him in astonishment
and then replied, somewhat testily, "a pound; twenty
shillings." Grant was somewhat taken aback by the man's
19

LIVERPOOL
manner, but he found out afterward that these pine-apples
had been grown in a hot-house, and that they were indeed
five dollars each.
The display of game was really wonderful. The
boys in particular were carried away and wanted to go
hunting that very day. Judge McGee explained to them
that these deer, hares, and partridges were not wild ones,
such as those we see in the American markets, but were
raised for market the same as sheep arid chickens. The
girls greatly admired the beautiful pheasants and thought
they would like some of the feathers for their hats.
On their way out of the market they met an old
woman, crying " Hot snails ! hot snails !" She had a great
tray full of smoking hot snails. "What does she do with
these?" asked Mamie Belville.
" Sells them for people to eat," replied Jessie Wil
liams. "No she don't either," said Mamie, "does she Mr.
McGee?" The Judge told them this was just what she was
¦doing. Jessie was quite as much surprised as any of them,
for she had only made her remark in fun. He then went
on to say that there were few oysters in England, and
these snails in some measure took their place.
"She reminds me," said Johnny Ashton, "of the old
women who sell hot peanuts."
" I wish I had some peanuts," said Hattie Clark.
"So do I," chimed in the other five girls.
" Well," said Mr. McGee, " I amafraid you must wait
until we get to Africa, for here peanuts are not eaten any
more than snails are in America." ¦ -
Grant Hillman thought he had read somewhere that
peanuts were exported from the Congo region to England;
20

OUTER LINE OF DOCKS, LIVERPOOL

LIVERPOOL
"So they are," the Judge replied, "but they are used
for making table oil, and not for eating out of hand as
with us."
The party now passed down Church street and Lord
street into the Crescent, and turned into South Castle
street. Elegant shops, with show-windows filled with the
richest goods, lined both sides of the way. At the foot of
South Castle street the great dome of the custom-house
rose high- above the surrounding buildings. Number 64
was near the lower end of the street, and on reaching it
they found they must pass through a narrow passage and
up a flight of steps in order to reach the offices of Alex
ander & Christie.
Mr. Alexander greeted them with quiet dignity, and
after reading the letters Judge McGee had brought with
him, inquired if their passage across the Atlantic had been
a pleasant one, and what their present plans were. On
hearing they wished to sail for Gaboon he told them
they were quite fortunate, as the royal mail steamer
"Nubia," in charge of the Commodore Captain of the
fleet, was to sail on Saturday. He advised them to secure
their berths at once, "for," said he, "these steamers do
not have large passenger accommodation, and not unfre-
quently every berth is taken. The office of the company
is in James street, but a few minutes' walk from here, and
if you wish I will go with you."
Of course they were glad enough to have the pleas
ure of his company, so they all went to the steamship
office. Mr. Sinclair, the agent, invited them into his pri
vate room, and while the gentlemen completed the busi
ness arrangements, the young folks looked at the pictures
of steamers hanging on the walls.

LIVERPOOL
While they were talking Captain Davis came in. He
looked like a regular "old salt," and his merry eyes
twinkled when he heard they were going out with him.
" So you youngsters are going out to Africa, are you?"
said he ; "Well, you will wish yourselves back again long
before you get there, now mind I tell you. Africa is no
place for the likes of you."
Laura Reed replied that they expected to rough it;
and Captain Davis allowed they would not be disap
pointed. " But," said he, " if you are bound to go, I will
take the best care of you I can, and there is one thing you
must do, you must come out to my house to-night and
take tea with me."
They thanked the Captain for his kind invitation,
and said they would accept it with pleasure, if Mr. McGee
thought best. The Judge and the Captain were old
friends, and it took no pressure to induce Mr. McGee to
promise that they would be at Edge Lane at five o'clock.
On their way back to South Castle street they called
at a shop in the Crescent to make some purchases. Judge
McGee thought it best for them to get pith hats and yellow
sun-umbrellas with green lining, such as foreigners usually
carry in the tropics. Mr. Alexander introduced the party
to Mr. Simpson, the proprietor of the shop, and he took
especial pains to please them. There was some discussion
as to which style of hat was best suited to a hot sun ; the
helmet, or the flat shaped. While the helmet is the more
common style, it was agreed that the flat shaped crown
permitted a better circulation of air over the head, and
also shaded the face more than the helmet.
Mr. Alexander inquired if they had seen the docks,
and when told they had not, he proposed they should go
and offered to accompany them. " I promised the young

LIVERPOOL
people," said Judge McGee, " that they should have a ride
to-day, on the top of a tram ; if they are willing to wait
another day, we will be glad to accept your kind invita
tion to visit the docks, for they are one of the wonders of
the world, and no one who is in England should miss see
ing them." The young folks were anxious to see the docks, and
so it was arranged that they should go forthwith. Mr.
Alexander remarked the " docks were hungry places " and
suggested it might be well to have something to eat first,
at the same time inviting them to lunch with him. It
was not quite noon yet but the suggestion commended
itself to our young travelers, and the invitation was
accepted with thanks.
Mr. Alexander took them to a neat restaurant nearly
opposite his office where, he said, he had for years taken
his dinner. The place was kept by a lady, and a sweet-
faced girl, named Annie, waited on them. Mr. Alexan
der told his new friends that English people were not
much hands to change about. "When we are suited,"
said he, "we generally stick to a place. There are men
who have been taking their dinner here regularly for the
last twenty years."
After lunch they walked down South Castle street^
to the custom-house, and, turning to the right, one short
square brought them to the Salt-house docks. To our
young adventurers the docks appeared a labyrinth of ships,
draw-bridges, warehouses and streets, and there were
abundance of sights for the young eyes. After the first
shock of surprise, the twelve young tongues began to rat
tle and the exclamations of wonder were frequent.
While the young people were busy looking about,
Mr. Alexander explained the plan upon which the docks
23

LIVERPOOL
were built. " The Mersey," said he, " is not a wide river
and the banks are shallow, .but the rise j and fall of the
tide is great. This latter circumstance made the docks
not only necessary, but a success. An outer, or sea-wall,
was built in the river parallel with the bank, and the
transverse walls were run to the shore. The space thus
enclosed was excavated as deep as the bottom of the fiver;
a wall on the land side completed the first dock. Others
were then built, until now the total length is about nine
miles. There is no advantage in having the docks too
wide, for vessels must lie alongside the wall, in order to
discharge and load ; so there is a, double line of docks, one
inside or nearer the city than the other. - All the docks
communicate with one another and vessels may pass at
any time, but they cannot go through the outer gates into
the river except at the top of high water."
"How many weeks does it take to load a vessel?"
asked Hattie Clark. :
"When there is need for haste," replied Mr. Alexan
der, "a large steamer can unload, and take on a new
cargo, coal and provisions, all ready for sea again, in four
days." It did uot seem possible, but Mr. Alexander thought
the work might be accomplished in- even less time.
The party now crossed the drawrbridge and proceeded
to the outer line of the docks. The accompanying, illus
tration was taken at high tide. The closed gate is the
one through which the steamers pass. The open one
with the foot bridge over it, is for. canal boats and lighters.
The second line of docks is quite distinctly seen.
After walking about some time amid a maze of walls,
sheds and bridges, they came to a narrow dock' without
any water in it. A steamer was in this dock and it was

24

o
o

LIVERPOOL
braced in every direction with heavy timbers to keep it
from falling over. The dock narrowed toward the bot
tom and a large force of men were scraping the sides of
the vessel, and some were putting on red paint.
This was called a graving-dock.
Mr. Alexander explained that every two or three
months a ship, especially if she sails in Southern waters,
must be scraped and painted ; that not only will grass
grow on the bottom, but oysters and other shell-fish will
stick fast and greatly impede the progress of the vessel.
" A grass-field on the bottom of a ship!" exclaimed
Johnny Ashton.
"Yes," replied Mr. Alexander, "I have seen grass on
a ship's side several inches long."
" I had no idea," remarked Mamie Belville, "that so
large a portion of a ship is under water."
" Nor had I," echoed Jessie Williams, " and I do not
think they are nearly so pretty when you see the whole of
them, as they are when floating proudly on the ocean."
" That," said Judge McGee, " is because they are in
their natural element, while here in the graving-dock they
are like people who are .placed in a false position ; they
are helpless and appear to a disadvantage."
" What is that wheel sticking out behind for ? " asked
Grace Thompson.
" That," replied Mr. Alexander, " is the propeller ;
when it turns around it pushes the ship forward."
" I don't see how it can," said Grace.
" I admit," answered Mr. Alexander, " that it is not
easy to see how such a small wheel can develop so much
power." " How does it get its power anyway? " asked Robbie
Campbell. 25

LIVERPOOL
" On the principle of the screw," explained Mr.
Alexander ; when you turn a screw it must go forward.
The water is like a solid plank of wood ; when this wheel
turns in the water, it bores its way ahead like an auger or
screw." The young people were still unable to see how
so small a wheel could push so large a vessel, but they
wisely let the matter rest and said no more about it.
It was now three o'clock and they were getting tired ;
they made their way presently to the street, and calling
cabs, were driven to the hotel. Here they had a light
lunch and rested awhile, and then repaired to their rooms
to prepare their toilets for the evening. At half-past four
they were on the station platform at the rear of the hotel.
" How convenient;" exclaimed Mamie Belville, " it
is no more trouble to take a train here, than it is to go
into the dining-room for breakfast."
As one compartment in the railway carriage would
not hold them all, the boys took one to themselves, while
Judge McGee and the girls occupied the other.
Ten minutes later they were on the platform of Edge
Lane station, where Captain Davis was waiting to meet
them. His home was but a few minutes' walk from the
station, and was charmingly situated amid shrubbery and
trees. The Band were delighted to be in a real English
home, and Mrs. Davis was so kind and motherly they quite
forgot they were in a foreign land. There were several
young people, too, in the family, and that made it still
more agreeable ; besides, an older daughter was married
and lived near by ; she came in, and altogether it made a
houseful. Captain Davis was just in his element ; it was hard
to tell which he liked best, a party of young folks, or a
good stiff breeze at sea. His house was filled with African
26

LIVERPOOL
curiosities ; these possessed an added interest to the young
visitors, as they were so soon to tread the shores of that
wonderful land. They had an elegant "tea," to which
the guests did ample justice. It was the first time they
had dined at home since leaving Philadelphia.
Mrs. Davis was a Devonshire lady, and one of the
dishes of the evening was " Devonshire cream," something
entirely new to the young Americans. They all agreed
it was delicious. The hours passed rapidly and before
they knew it, it was after ten o'clock. Reluctantly they
put on their wraps and bade their kind entertainers "good
bye," and when they alighted on the hotel platform it
wanted but five minutes of eleven.
Next morning they were not up quite so early as
they had been the morning before. After breakfast Judge
McGee proposed they should take the promised ride on
the top of a "tram." The party were soon ready, and a
few minutes later they were climbing the circular stairway
that led to the top.
Frank Harris called it the hurricane deck, "because,"
said he, "here is where you get all the wind."
The motion was much easier than that of the street
cars in America. This, the Judge told them, was because
the track was much more solidly laid. "The English,"
said he, "are not so inventive as the Americans, but what
they do, they do well; in this respect they surpass us."
Their route took them around Great George hall, past
St. John's Church and into Scotland Road, one of the
great thoroughfares of the city. They were greatly inter
ested by all they saw, and the girls thought it was "just
too jolly for anything." An hour's ride brought them to
the village of West Derby, adjoining the estate of the Earl
of Derby. Not far from the terminus of the tramway was
27

LIVERPOOL
the great iron gate by which admittance is gained to the
grounds. Our young tourists remained on the top of. the
tram, and in a few minutes it started on its return trip to
the city. On arrival at the hotel they found a letter from Mr.
Alexander awaiting them, inviting them to tea at his
mother's home in Birkenhead on Friday evening. After
the Judge had replied, cordially accepting the invitation,
they all started out for a walk up London Road, the great
shopping street of the city, especially for medium priced
goods. They learned that a dry-goods store was called a
"draper's shop," and notions were known as "habere
dashery." Goods in the windows were priced in "shil
lings " or " guineas. "
" How much is a guinea?" asked Lulu Wright. .
"A guinea," replied the Judge, "is twenty-one shil
lings, and a pound is twenty shillings ; a shilling is nearly
twenty-five cents of our money."
" What is a sovereign?" asked Willie Richman.:
"A sovereign," said Judge McGee, "is the name of a
gold piece which represents a; pound, and is the unit of
value in English money- as the dollar is of American
money." After lunch the party took -carriages and drove to
Prince's Park, and afterward to Sefton Park. These parks
are exceedingly beautiful, and differ from most parks in
American cities in that many residences are scattered about
in them. " It must be just too nice " for' anything,"
exclaimed Mamie Belville, "to live in such a beautiful
park as this."
" O ! it must be just, lovely," chimed in' the rest of
the girls. " " •

28

PRINCES PARK, LIVERPOOL

LIVERPOOL
The Judge quite agreed with them, but at the same
time reminded his young friends that those who seem to
have the most of the world to enjoy, are not always the
happiest. The Band were willing to admit all this, and
yet that Prince's Park was a wondrously pleasant place to
live in, could not be denied. It was still early in the
afternoon, and as they thought they would like to see a
little of the country, they drove out to the village of
Wavertree.. "Why do the English build such high walls around
the grounds of their country places?" asked Hattie Clark.
"Why," added Lulu Wright, " I noticed one wall that
must have been ten feet high, and a hedge growing on
top of that."
The Judge explained that it was the nature of the
English people to be exclusive, but that when one gained
their confidence they were the kindest hearted of all people.
But if the country residences were partly hidden from
view, the fields were not. September is one of the most
delightful months of the year, and our little friends may
be pardoned if, as they drove along, they thought England
must be the most beautiful country in the world.
Friday morning was spent in Brown Museum and the
Art Gallery, both of which are near the hotel. After lunch
they took a good rest, and at three o'clock they left the
hotel to spend the evening with Mr. and Mrs. Alexander.
On the Landing Stage they were met by Mr. Alexander,
and as soon as the ferry-boat had discharged her passen
gers, they went on board. The tide is so strong in the
Mersey that ferry-boats do not run " end on " in a slip, but
come alongside of the pier and the passengers go on and
off from the side of the boat, as on a Delaware river
steam-boat. 29

LIVERPOOL
Mrs. Alexander lived on the outskirts of Birkenhead,
in one of those lovely homes for which England is famous.
After tea Mr. Alexander took Mr. McGee and the boys
up to his workshop, and while he and the Judge enjoyed
a quiet cigar, the boys were busy examining the specimens
of his handiwork. Among other things was a steamer,
about three feet long, complete in every detail. Although
so small, it was a real, true steamer for sure. A small
lamp generated steam which ran a real engine, and the
little vessel had made more than one voyage across the lake
in Birkenhead Park. Of course it was so small that no
one could ride on it.
Down in the parlor Mrs. Alexander was entertaining
the girls with stories of English life ; she also informed
them that her son was a confirmed bachelor — a state of
affairs the girls had already suspected. She thought her
James was the best son in the world, and indeed two
happier people it would be hard to find. By and by the
gentlemen came down stairs and the conversation became
both general and animated. It was a late hour when they
left. Mr. Alexander accompanied them to the railway
station, for they did not return by the ferry, but by the
tunnel under the river.
Saturday morning was spent in making a . few addi
tional purchases and other preparations for their voyage.
They were about to exchange civilization for an unknown
and savage land — one that was popularly known as the
"white man's grave" — and they naturally felt pretty seri
ous about it.
At half-past two they were upon the Landing Stage,
where they found Mr. Alexander and his partner, Mr.
Robertson, awaiting them. Their luggage was carefully

3°

LIVERPOOL
placed upon the tender, and they then paced up and down
awaiting the hour of departure.
It was a busy and animated scene.
Porters with great trunks and cases on their shoul
ders, were hurrying down the bridges from the pier-head.
Mail sacks and parcels of all kinds were brought from
various directions and quickly transferred to the tender.
Little family groups were gathered here and there to say
"good-bye" to a husband, or a son — may be never to see
the loved face again.
Our little travelers were much affected, for their own
parting from dear ones was still fresh in their memories.
At length the hour came, and they went on board the
tender, which was soon speeding its way up the river.
"Why do we go up the river?" asked Grant Hill-
man. " Because our vessel is there loading powder," replied
Captain Davis.
" Powder ! " exclaimed the girls in chorus, " is there
powder on the ship, Captain?"
" Yes," said Captain Davis, " there is eighty tons of it."
The Ogowe Band were filled with dismay. The
boys tried to look brave, but did not succeed very well.
Judge McGee asked if it was customary to carry so much
powder, and why it was done.
Captain Davis explained that this powder is used in
trade with the natives and that every steamer going to
Africa carries a large quantity of it. "I have known,"
said he, "a ship to take out as much as eight hundred
tons on a single voyage. We have a magazine built
expressly for it and will this time take no more than it
will hold ; but sometimes we take it between decks with
the other cargo."

LIVERPOOL
It was not a pleasing prospect, but our young friends
had set their faces toward the Dark Continent, and were
not to be turned back by the prospect of an accident ; so
they said no more about the powder. By this time they
were alongside the Nubia, and in less than an hour the
anchor was up, and they were on their way down the
river.

32

CITY OF FUNCHAL, MADEIRA

Chapter III.

MADEIRA.

OUR little travelers found the Nubia a very dif
ferent steamer from the Lord Gough. The
latter vessel was built for the cold and stormy
Atlantic ; the Nubia was designed for warmer
climes and smoother seas. She had accommodations for
only about twenty saloon passengers, but her rooms were
large, and there was abundance of air and light. Like
the Lord Gough the saloon and staterooms were amid
ships, a rare thing on an African steamer, for usually
these apartments are at the stern of the ship, where the
motion is greatest. Some of the old hands prefer this
arrangement still, for they think it removes them farther
from the noise and confusion of working the cargo. Be
"that as it may, our friends were glad they were on the
Nubia where they were likely to be far less seasick than
they would be in the old style of vessel.
The ship took the same course they had followed
when coming into Liverpool, until Holyhead was passed,
when, instead of crossing over to the Irish coast, they kept
right down the middle of the Channel. Their course was
iii 33

MADEIRA
a little west of south, and for six days they steamed
along without any unusual incident occurring. Occa
sionally a steamer was seen homeward bound from the
Brazils or the Mediterranean, a long trail of black smoke
streaming behind her ; and sometimes they passed a sail
ing vessel making her way to some distant portion of the
earth. But most of the time there was nothing in sight
but sea and sky, and as it was not always fit to be on
deck, they had a dull time.
At noon, on the sixth day, some brown rocks were
seen on the horizon on the starboard bow ; these, the
Captain informed them, were the Desertes, rocky islands
belonging to the Madeira group. They are small and
uninhabited, but sometimes people go there to catch fish.
As the afternoon wore away Madeira was seen rising
grandly from the ocean, and in the early evening they
were steaming past it.
The night was bright and clear, and the Ogowe
Band were on deck until a late hour enjoying the novelty
of the scene. Before them rose the island in majestic
grandeur to a height of six thousand feet, its summit
draped in light, fleecy clouds. The waves dashed against
the face of the rocky cliffs, while above, on the mountain
side, little clusters of lights here and there showed the
positions of the villages. By and by the steamer rounded
the Point, and in about an hour the great mass of lights
ashore indicated they were abreast of Funchal. These
lights shone so brightly in the clear night air that it
almost seemed as if a part of the starry host had fallen
upon the mountain side.
It was a lovely night, and from the steamer's deck
the scene was novel and enchanting. All around was the
wide sea, now lying as calm and peaceful as a babe asleep.
34

MADEIRA
Above, in the black vault of heaven, the stars shone like
celestial lamps along the highways of the spirit world.
To the right was the strange volcanic island, so little
known in the Western world. In the quiet night the
steamer appeared like a great live creature, its iron heart
throbbing with a ceaseless purpose to bear them away to
still more distant lands. Conversation was hushed ; every
soul was communing with the inspiration of the night ;
laying up in the treasure-house of memory a store of
impressions as food for thought in the years to come.
Nor did they find it easy to leave this fairy land and go
down stairs to engage in the prosy occupation of undress
ing and going to bed. The steamer could not enter the
roadstead until sunrise and so lay outside under "dead
slow" steam the rest of the night.
Notwithstanding the late hours of the previous
night, our little voyagers were up betimes in the morning.
The Nubia was at anchor close in to the shore and was
surrounded by a small fleet of row-boats, whose swarthy
crews hoped to make a few shillings by taking passengers
ashore. They crowded especially about the gangway
and with loud cries sought to call attention to themselves
and their boats. Some clambered over the side and
brought with them basket work, feather ornaments, shells,
needle-work, pictures, willow chairs and a variety of
other goods for sale.
In two of the boats were small boys who seemed to
be anxious to obtain some favor, but what it was our
young people did not know. The ship's Doctor explained
that they wanted to dive for sixpences ; and then, drawing
one from his pocket, he threw it into the water. It was
so clear that the sixpence could be seen turning over and
over as it slowly descended. When a few feet beneath
35

MADEIRA
the surface two of the boys dived, and presently one
appeared with the coin in his teeth; after shaking the
water from his face, he held it up in his hands so the Doc
tor could see that he had it. The Ogowe Band were
highly interested and they threw a number of coins in
the water, every one of which the boys brought out
again. The water was so clear that every motion was
plainly seen, and the Judge was as much interested in the
performance as the young folks.
Our happy young voyagers now turned their atten
tion from the boys to the shipping in the roadstead, and
the sights and scenes ashore. They were surprised to see
so many steamers, and so they inquired why -it was, for
they had thought Madeira was seldom visited.
Captain Davis replied that the island is just in the
¦track of all vessels going to the South Atlantic. "All
those steamers," said "he, "that'go to the West coast of
Africa, all that go to the Cape of Good Hope, as well as
those, that go to the Brazils, and every' part of South
: America,-; pass Madeira, and call in, like ourselves, for coal,.
water and fresh provisions." ~" This steamer coming in,"
said he, " is the Moor from Cape Town. The one just
over' there is the Corisco from the West coast of Africa,
where we are going. Those two are the Carl Woermann
from Hamburg, and the Angola from Lisbon'; the one
bound for the German and the other for the Portuguese
1 possessions in Africa. That large one is the Hipparchus
from Hamburg for the Brazils, and the small one 'which
has just anchored, has come from the Azores, or, as we
Britishers call them, the Western Islands."
Saxe Deemey asked if coal was found on the- island.
"No," said Captain Davis, "it is all brought out from
England." 36

t''ifl

LANDING PLACE, FUNCHAL, MADEIRA

MADEIRA
"What is this large rock? " asked Laura Reed ; " it
looks like a castle."
"That," answered the Captain, "is Lou Rock; it is
a fortress and prison all in one ; it is also a signal station,
and is a rendezvous for the health and customs officers.
They were off here to see me this morning before you
were out on deck."
"That old fort is no good anyhow," said Johnny
Ashton, " one of our big rifled cannon would make a stone
quarry of it in a couple of shots."
With this sentiment' the Band were quite agreed.
They indulged the conceit, so common among their
countrymen, that America could beat the world, and was
prepared to do it. The Judge well knew that a wider
acquaintance among the nations would partly dispel this
illusion ; so he said nothing ; and his young companions
soon turned their attention to the sights ashore.
Just before them the city of Funchal lay, built in
solid squares near the waterside, and then climbed the
mountain in several directions. Along the beach, boats
laden with merchandise were arriving and departing, oxen
were drawing heavy loads in various directions, and num
bers of people were hurrying to and fro. Above, the
clouds were just rising from the mountain tops ; among
the peaks yawned great canyons as though the mountain
had been forcibly rent asunder. The lower slopes of the
mountain were terraced and planted with grapes and sugar
cane, which were now being ripened by the autumn sun.
Above the town were many country-seats, almost hidden
from view by the orange and lemon orchards that sur
rounded them. Near the sea, in sheltered situations, were
small fields of bananas, their broad leaves waving gently
in the slight breeze. 37

MADEIRA
Captain Davis invited our young travelers to spend
the day on shore with him, and ordered breakfast half an
hour earlier than usual so they might have a good start.
This invitation, it is needless to say, was accepted with
pleasure. The Captain thought best not to go in his gig,
as the native boats were better adapted to the rocky beach ;
so two were chosen, the Captain and the young ladies
going in one, and Judge McGee and the boys in the other.
These boats had a deep, thick keel, and the moment one
touched bottom, the crew jumped out in the water, and,
with the aid of their comrades who stood near, drew it
upon the shingly beach out of reach of the waves.
They landed at the foot of a street that might be
called the main entrance to the town. A double row of
trees cast a grateful shade, for on shore the sun was warm.
No guide was needed, for Captain Davis knew the way as
well as he did in his own home city of Liverpool ; but the
beggars were so numerous and troublesome that old
Antonio was hired, more to keep them off than any
thing else.
The Ogowe Band walked up the street in open-
mouthed wonder ; here they were, sure enough, in this
remote island of the sea, with everything about them so
new and strange. Perhaps it is hardly proper to say
" new," for the island and its people are more like a portion
of the middle ages preserved for our inspection, than they
are like the nineteenth century.
Just then a sled with a carriage-top on it and drawn
by two oxen, came around the corner. It came slipping
and sliding along, the men who were managing it uttering
loud cries, apparently to the oxen.
"What in the world is that?" exclaimed Lulu
Wright. 3S

MADEIRA
As she spoke, one of the men threw a dirty rag in
front of one of the runners of the sled, and when the
runner had passed over it he picked it up again and took
it with him.
"That sled," said Captain Davis, "is a Madeira car
riage." "A carriage, indeed," chimed in two of the girls at
once, "where are the wheels?"
The Captain told them there was not a wheeled
vehicle on the island, and that these sleds were the usual
means for getting about unless one went afoot.
" What did that man throw the rag under the sled
for?" asked Grace Thompson.
Captain Davis called their attention to the fact that
the street was paved with small, smooth boulders set on
edge, and that they were quite slippery. " Now," said he
" when the sled does not seem to go ahead as easily as it
should, that greasy rag is thrown in front of one of the
runners and that oils the machine and makes it go more
smoothly." "Well, I think it's a stupid mode of getting around,
anyway," remarked Jessie Williams.
"It may seem stupid to us," replied the Captain,
" but it is well adapted to these mountain roads, and the
conditions of life here. These oxeri may be slow but
they are sure-footed ; they will subsist on much coarser
fare than horses ; and when their days of usefulness are
nearly spent, they are sold to the steamers in the shape
of fresh beef; thus bringing a fair profit to the frugal
islanders." Willie Richman thought the meat would be tough ;
but Robbie Campbell allowed that would make it go far
ther, so that it might be an advantage.
39

MADEIRA
After passing along the public square, they entered
a .side street and went into the office -of the steamship
agents. Here the Captain sent a Cablegram to Liverpool
announcing the ship's arrival; ordered coal and some
other supplies ; and after a little chat with' the agents, he
said his business was finished and placed himself at the
disposal of the party.
After a short conference with Judge McGee, it was
decided to go about the city, make some . purchases, take
lunch at Miles' Hotel, and then go up the mountain. As
they passed out into the street, a yoke of oxen went, by,
dragging a plank some-eight feet long and fifteen inches
wide. -": ''Is that another Madgira carriage?" inquired Saxe
Deeiney. — - ' ¦-;
'¦.'>. "That," explained Captairi -Davis, "is a truck; it is
used' for transporting all kinds of freight." -
tJThe boys thought they had come, sure enough, to the
outer verge of "civilization, but there was such an abund
ance of sights for the young eyes, that, for the present,
the oxen, arid plank passed out of mind.
Just then they came to a shop where willow , baskets
and chairs were for sale. The Judge suggested the pro
priety of purchasing a chair and basket for each of' his
party ; so they went in. It did not take the Ogowe Band
long to make up their minds .that; they waflted pretty
much everything in. the shop. This was' not so surpris
ing, for the goods were mostly curiosities made for sale to
tourists to carry home with .them as mementos of their
visit. Judge McGee called attention to the fact' that they
were outward-bound a'nd it was "best" to" defer the purchase
of souvenirs until their return. "But," said he, "you
might get a few pictures to send back by Captain Davis."
40

MADEIRA CARRIAGE

MADEIRA
"They can go to-day by the Corisco," said the Cap
tain ; so the ones that appear in this volume were chosen,
and sent, duly addressed, to the steamship office.
They had not gone far from the shop when Antonio
led them through an open doorway into what proved to
be the open court of a house. It was a house where
feather-work and paper flowers were made for sale. At
these places guides are paid a commission on all sales
made to tourists whom they bring in. Our friends did
not wish to purchase any of these commodities, but they
spent a little time in examining the natural flowers grow
ing in and about the court.
Such floral wealth they had never seen. A single
heliotrope was fastened to one side of the house ; it spread
out to a height and breadth of over ten feet, and was cov
ered with bloom. A fuchsia growing against the wall was
even larger, and must have had at least a bushel of blos
soms on it. A scarlet geranium was quite as large. The
girls were more astonished by the flowers than anything
they had yet seen, and could scarcely believe their eyes, and
the Judge felt they were well worth coming so far to see.
The houses are mostly built on three sides of an inte
rior court ; the fourth side being closed by a wall covered
upon the top with broken bottles. Toward the street the
first story presents little more than a blank wall. The
doors are heavy and often covered with iron; the few
windows are heavily barred like a prison, and have no
glass. The ground floor is mostly a lumber room, or is
used as a workshop. Machinery is not esteemed in
Madeira ; nearly every kind of manufacture is carried on
by hand. As our friends walked along they saw men ply
ing their various trades and handicrafts, each at the
entrance to his house.

41

MADEIRA
After a while they turned up the street seen in the
engraving, and met a pleasant- faced English gentleman,
who, seeing they were Americans, invited them to step in
his house and sit down a few minutes to rest. He intro
duced himself as Rev. Mr. Smart, agent for the British
and Foreign Bible Society of London. His house is on
the left hand side of the street shown in the engraving,
about half way up. He took his guests across the street
where Mrs. Smart was teaching an infant school. The
little olive-skinned children eyed our young friends, and
when introductions were over, sang "Safe in the arms of
Jesus," in the Portuguese tongue. It was the first time
our young travelers had heard singing in a foreign lan
guage and they were much affected.
From this interesting little school, Antonio led them
through many streets, some of them crooked and narrow,
until he brought them to a large building which proved
to be a sugar-mill. The young folks were delighted and
the Judge too was pleased ; not one of the party had ever
been in a sugar-mill before.
The cane stripped of its leaves, and looking like
great bare cornstalks, was brought in on sleds by oxen,
and run between heavy rollers to crush out the juice.
After passing through several large tanks to allow it to
settle and purify, it was run into long shallow pans and
boiled. It was a hot, dirty, sticky place, but the Ogowe
Baud were glad they had seen it, for they felt they under
stood the manufacture of sugar as they never could have
done from simply reading books.
It was nearly noon and they were hot and tired, so
they were quite content, for the time, to give up sight
seeing and go to Miles' Hotel to rest and have some lunch.
When they reached the hotel, they passed through- the
42

MADEIRA
hall out to the covered portico which surrounds the court,
and, throwing themselves into the cool willow chairs,
declared they were "just too tired' for anything." In the
centre of the court a fountain was playing and gold-fish
were darting about in the water. Beautiful flowers lined
the walks, while still others clambered up the walls. These
sights caused the spirits of the young tourists quickly to
revive ; it was not many minutes before they were in the
garden examining the strange plants and flowers, and
their tongues rattling away at a lively rate.
Judge McGee and Captain Davis were content to enjoy
themselves in comfortable repose on the cool veranda.
While the young folks chattered away in the garden, they
engaged in a quiet talk about the industrial condition of
the island. The Captain informed Mr. McGee that
Madeira was not as prosperous as in former years. Then
wine was the principal article of export and it brought
high prices ; but a mysterious disease killed most of the
vines and no branch of agriculture has since been found
so profitable. "The island now lives," said the Captain,
"almost entirely upon its trade with passing steamers.
A few English tourists come out to spend the winter, but
not so many as formerly. Every year there are new
places of attraction opened on the continent, and besides,
it is getting to be pretty well understood that Madeira is
not especially healthy."
Judge McGee remarked that he had heard Madeira
spoken of as a sanitarium.
The Captain replied that the climate was mild and
agreeable, and for a strong, healthy man, in many ways
attractive ; but for consumptives and other weak persons
it was too debilitating. Besides, the long ocean voyage
required to reach it, must ever be an objection. " It was
43

MADEIRA
once thought," continued the Captain, "that it might be
a good place for those who were suffering from the African
malaria to recruit their wasted energies ; but that idea too
has been given up."
" I had been thinking of that myself," observed Mr.
McGee. "Well," responded the Captain, " I used to think so
too, but I have changed my mind. When a man comes
here from the African coast all broken down, he not infre
quently gains for the first few days ; but the improvement
is soon lost, and too often a funeral ends the voyage for
the poor fellow."
Lunch was now announced, and the call was re
sponded to with alacrity. The food was good, but not
very abundant. The salads and fruits were especially
grateful to the little voyagers after the days they "had
spent at'sea. The apples, grapes and bananas were not
better than they had eaten at home, but the fresh figs were
a new thing to them. They were the size of a small pear,
and- of a dark purple color ; most of the Band liked them,
but two or three thought they were " sickish. " They were
disappointed in not getting oranges, but were told it was
not the season.
When lunch was over our young friends were so much
rested that they were eager for new scenes and adventures,
so it was decided to start at once for the mountain. Four
sleds were engaged by Antonio ; three were for the Band,
while Judge McGee and the Captain reserved , one" to
themselves,; hand sleds, were also provided to bring the
party down.
• . It, was an imposing cavalcade, and caused some
remark as they passed through the streets. , Each sled was,
in charge of two men who were very noisy, shouting with
44

A STREET IN FUNCHAL, MADEIRA

MADEIRA
discordant voices both at the oxen and at one another ;
presently the way became narrow and crooked, and in
some places steep ; so steep, in fact, that some of the girls
screamed and tried to get out. The drivers pushed them
back and tried to tell them there was no danger, but it
was all an unknown tongue to them ; however, they
understood they must remain where they were, so they
tremblingly resigned themselves to their fate.
It was not much wonder they felt nervous, for the
oxen struggled at times to keep their footing, and in the
steepest places it looked to the girls as if the poor beasts
would fall back on them. Nor must it be supposed that
the boys were any the less alarmed ; it is nonsense to
think that boys are naturally braver than girls ; in times
of great danger they are often less so.
When part way up, the sleds halted in an open place
to rest, and there was a lively time comparing experiences.
They were now up among the gardens and low stone huts
of the peasant people, but they were so occupied in
describing the recent situation that they did not take time
to look about them. The rest of the way was toilsome
work, and when they had mounted another thousand feet,
they were glad enough to turn off into the pleasant
grounds in the midst of which was the mountain home of
Mr. Reid, a Scotch merchant. Mr. Reid gave them a
hearty welcome, and so did his daughter, who was just
home from school in England.
The view from the piazza was grandly beautiful. In
front upon the terraced mountain-side were gardens, vine
yards, and patches of sugar-cane. At their feet was the
City of Funchal, its white buildings seeming wondrously
near, so clear was the air. Beyond the harbor with its
Shipping, the great ocean stretched away into infinity —
45

MADEIRA
that ocean whose pathless wastes they were to traverse in
quest of unknown lands and adventures — all this rich
scene lay before them shimmering in the warm light of
the autumn sun.
A solemn hush for the moment fell upon the light-
hearted youngsters, as memory brought up before the
mind the dear ones far away over that deep blue sea. By
its power it stirred the imagination in an instant to leap
the vast expanse of waters, and set before them the sights
and scenes of the home land. The city, the streets, the
homes, the dear ones, and all the loved scenes in which
they had so lately moved passed in seeming reality before
them, and, as the sense of the isolation of their position
was filling their young eyes with tears, Mr. Reid arose
and invited them to take a walk about the grounds. This
broke the spell, and in a moment the Ogowe Band were
their own bright happy selves once more.
Madeira, by its equable climate, is able to grow the
products of both the torrid and temperate zones. Here
upon Mr. Reid's grounds the young travelers saw growing
oranges and apples, strawberries and pine-apples, pears and
lemons, potatoes and breadfruit, cherries and bananas.
Yet after all, these plants do not flourish, but they grow
and bear fruit. However, if fruits do not flourish, flowers
certainly do, and such roses our young friends had never
seen. While the gentlemen were talking about the state of
trade and the various industries of the island, Miss Reid
took the girls with her into the vineyard. The main crop
had already been gathered, but some bunches had been
left here and there, and it was a new pleasure to the girls
to be in a real, sure enough vineyard, one that was, very
likely, like those they had read of in the Bible, in the
46

MADEIRA
land of Palestine. The grapes were good, and grateful to
the taste, more especially after one has been several days at
sea, but they could scarcely be called luscious. Many kinds
sold in the Philadelphia markets are as good, if not better.
While they were enjoying the grapes Miss Reid enter
tained them with a description of the kind of life young
people live in Madeira, and of her own school-days in
London. She was not half done when Captain Davis's
voice was heard calling them, for the time was rapidly
passing and they needed to be on their way. After a cup
of coffee, they bade good-bye to their kind "entertainers
and went a little further up the mountain to visit a con
vent. There was nothing of special interest to see here,
except the wealth of flowers growing in profusion every
where about the grounds. Old Antonio told them that
they were at liberty to pick as many as they chose ; a
liberty they all took full advantage of, and soon each one
had as many as could comfortably be carried.
The time had now come for the trip down the moun
tain, and the men with the hand sleds were in waiting.
These sleds have a body like a very small sleigh, with low
runners, so that the weight is near the ground, and are
capable of holding two passengers. Each sled is managed
by two men, and behind is a handle for them to hold on
by and guide the sled.
The perpendicular descent from the convent is full
two thousand feet. Part of the way is narrow, everywhere
crooked, and. in places as steep as a house-roof. The road
is paved with the narrow boulders set on edge, and are
slippery, so that the ride down is not unlike a runaway
train on the Switchback at Mauch Chunk.
It took some time to get the party seated and every
thing ready for the start. The girls owned up they were
47

MADEIRA
afraid, and the boys held back with a unanimity that was
refreshing ; even the Judge considered the chances very
soberly. One thing was certain, they must get down
some way, and this was the approved method ; accidents
were of rare occurrence and they must take their chances.
And so it happened, that after a goodly number of " 0
my's!" "O dear's!" and "O, I am so afraid's!" they at
length got started.
But if they were slow in getting started, they wasted
no time afterwards. Captain Davis and Laura Reed led
the procession ; then came the boys ; then four of the
girls ; while Judge McGee and Mamie Belville brought
up the rear and were able to see what happened to the
rest. At first the grade was easy and just rapid enough to
be exhilarating ; the girls declared it was "too jolly for
anything," and the boys fairly shouted. The pace quick
ened and the exclamations ceased ; it was getting to be
serious. The road now gave two or three quick turns and
then seemed to just fall away from before them ; houses,
walls, rocks, flashed past in a confused maze, and they felt
they had left the earth as they flew through the air. The
speed was such it took their breath away, and their hearts
stood still, as with open mouths, and bulging eyes, they
awaited instant destruction. In ten minutes they were in
the public plaza, nearly scared to death, while their sled
men, reeking with perspiration, threw themselves panting
upon the pavement.
The Ogowe Band could scarcely believe their senses
when they found the journey was over and no one was
hurt. It was indeed an experience never to be forgotten,
and the Judge readily admitted it was both novel and
startling. 43

MADEIRA
The sun was now low in the West, and Captain Davis
thought it was time to be getting on board, so they paid
their men and walked down to the landing. The boats
that brought them ashore in the morning were waiting
for them, and it was not long before they were once more
on board their floating home.

49

Chapter IV.

CANARY ISLANDS.

¥HINGS were in confusion on the main-deck
of the Nubia when our friends came on
board from their day of sight seeing in -Fun
chal. The coal-bunkers had been filled;, and
there was a large heap of coaLon deck-be
sides. Several quarters of fresh beef hung near:- the gal
ley, and two bullocks were standing on the forwarddeck
with a pile of hay near them. There were bunches of
chickens tied by the. legs, and baskets filled with cabbage,
lettuce, tomatoes, apples, grapes, walnuts and bananas;
there was a prospect for something to eat at any rate. „
On the saloon deck were the willpw chairs' Judge
McGee had bought; the baskets had been stowed in .an
empty state-room. The agent came off to. the ship just
after our friends arrived, and brought the ship's papers.
When he had arranged his business matters with the Cap
tain, he bade them good-bye. and wished, them a pleasant
voyage. Captain Davis went on the " bridge," the bell
raUg in the engine-room to "stand "by," the steam-wind
lass on the forecastle-head drew the anchor chain slowly
50

FUNCHAL FROM THE MOUNTAIN-SIDE, MADEIRA

CANARY ISLANDS
in, the engines began to "head slow," and with the com
pany's flag fluttering at the main-truck, and the Union
Jack astern, the Nubia turned slowly toward the south
and the voyage was resumed.
After dinner the Ogowe Band settled themselves
comfortably on deck in their new willow chairs, and
now that they were somewhat rested, they began to talk
ovei the events of the day. Nothing they had met with
escaped their notice, but what had most impressed them
was the ride down the mountain. To use their own
expression, " It was just too much for anything," and how
they got down without accident was still to them a mys
tery. While they were talking, Captain Davis came from
the bridge and took a seat with them. Judge McGee
asked him why he had such a heap of coal on deck.
The Captain explained that it was customary for the
African boats in starting to take on nearly enough coal
for the round trip ; at Madeira as much is taken on board
as has been burned up to that time, and if the supply
does not seem ample, some is earned on deck as in the
present instance.
"Won't there be danger of the bullocks being
washed away?" asked Saxe.
"No," replied the Captain, "we will have no more
rough weather ; we have now entered the region of balmy
breezes and smooth seas."
"How do you manage about fresh water?" inquired
Judge McGee.
"We have water tanks near the bottom of the ship,"
continued the Captain, "that are filled in Liverpool and
are usually sufficient for drinking and cooking; for
washing we use condensed water." 51

CANARY ISLANDS
" Has any one ever climbed to the top of it?" asked
Frank. "Yes," continued the Captain, "but it is seldom
done, for it is very hard work. For several hundred feet
below the summit the cone is covered with a thick layer
of fine ashes."
"Has there been any eruption of late years?" in
quired Laura.
"Yes," was the reply, "but nothing was thrown up
except ashes."
Hattie desired to know how the Peak of Teneriffe
compared in height with other mountains.
Judge McGee answered that it was higher than the
AUeghanies, Pyrenees, or Mt. Etna; but not so high as
Mt. Blanc. About three o'clock the steamer anchored in the
roadstead of Santa Cruz which is on the northeast end of
the island, about ten miles south of the point. Two
steamers were in ahead of them ; the Leipsic from Bre
men ; and Dom Pedro from Brazil.
Santa Cruz is not over one-third the size of Funchal.
As the Nubia was only calling to land the mails and
a few cases of goods, our friends decided not to go on
shore, more especially as the surf was beating rather
heavily against the stone pier where they must land. As
the steamer was anchored close in, with the aid of glasses
they were able to get a fair idea of the place.
The hills back of the town are not so steep as at
Madeira, and appear to be rather barren, although they
are cultivated. The Peak is to the left and is on the
opposite side of the island ; by this time in the afternoon
it was again veiled in clouds, and could not be seen. To
the right were ranges of steep rocky hills coming down
53

CANARY ISLANDS
end on to the sea ; they were cultivated near their bases,
and covered to the summits with some kind of low, coarse
vegetation, much of it of a dull, gray color. The place
is by no means so attractive as Funchal.
The Judge thought one might spend two or three
days ashore comfortably, as long as every sight was new,
but that it would soon become tiresome enough.
" I wonder if they have a daily paper here," queried
Grant. "No indeed," responded Captain Davis, " I doubt if
many of the people can read, or would care to do so if
they could. This little island is their world, and what
may happen elsewhere is nothing to them."
" I should think they would want at least one paper,"
observed Grace, "so they could get the local news."
"Never fear," responded the Captain, "their tongues
are quite equal to that, and do not cost anything either."
"Are the islanders poor ? " asked Lulu.
"Yes," continued the Captain, " they have enough to
eat and drink, but they are poor in income ; there is not
much that can profitably be exported, so that money is a
scarce article among them."
"Well," observed Mamie, "these people are welcome
to their island home, and I hope they are satisfied with
it." The rest of the Band quite agreed that the life on
Teneriffe was too solitary to be desirable.
"Where is Oratava?" asked the Judge.
"It is on the west side of the island," answered the
Captain. " It is the place to start from if you wish to
ascend the Peak ; it has no commerce and steamers do not
call there." Just before they started away, several drip-stones were
brought on board consigned to various ports on the
54

CANARY ISLANDS
African coast. These drip-stones are shaped like a deep
bowl, with square tops, and hold two or three pails of
water each. They are chiseled from blocks of lava, and
are used everywhere on the African coast to filter water.
For this purpose they are admirably adapted. The sides
of this huge bowl are three or four inches in thickness,
and the water slowly percolates through it, leaving every
particle of sediment behind. Once a week they need to
be rubbed well on the inside with a scrubbing brush and
washed out ; by this means it is possible to have perfectly
pure water.
Next morning, just as the sun was touching the tops
of the mountains, the Nubia anchored in the harbor of
Las Palmas, on the eastern side of the island of Grand
Canary. The rattle of the anchor-chain aroused the young
voyagers from their slumbers, and they clambered out of
their berths in a hurry. It did not take them long to
dress and get on deck, for when there was something new
to be seen, they were as nimble as only young people can
be. They found the steamer in a small bay, completely
sheltered from the waves by a long breakwater that had
been built out from the shore. Near by three or four
steamers and some small sailing vessels were at anchor,
while ashore were coal wharves and a good many stone
buildings. Upon looking around they saw, across the
bay, a city larger than Santa Cruz, but not so large as
Funchal. Behind the city were mountains, and the sun
was clothing their brown summits with a glorious light of
crimson and gold. In some places palms lined the beach,
and a good many were growing in the town and in the
valleys among the hills ; indeed, the very name of the
town, Las Palmas, means "The Palms."
55

CANARY ISLANDS
- Boats ihad. already left the. shore for the Nubia and
were soon alongside. - Captairi Davis came out of the
chart room and bade them a hearty '-"good morning; young
ladies and gents." It was not long before Judge MeGee
joined them. He too. had been awakened by the splash of
the anchor, but he was not in so much of a hurry as the
youngsters were ; ¦ no doubt realizing more fully than they,
that there is always sufficient time for all we have to do.
He asked Captain Davis how long he would remain and "was
told that they would not sail before five o'clock. > - ..
"Now," said the Judge, "we were your guests- at
Madeira and I propose that -'you' be' Our guest to-day. - How
soon will it suit you" to go ashore? "
Captain Davis replied that he would be ready shortly
after seven o'clock. ; "
¦'"' Boats came off to the steamer as at Madeira, bringing
various articles for sale, much of- which was" merely trash ;
and guides and runners for various places solicited patron
age: . Judge McGee' inquired of the steariiship. agent --for
the best hotel in town* arid the ruriner for that house" -was
introduced to; him. -
: Having made the necessary arrangements with- him,
all haiids went below to get a cup of coffee arid get ready
for- the day's excursion. . At" half-past seven they were
going 'down the ladder, and a couple of -boats soon carried
them over to the pier. Here carriages were : waiting arid
they drove through' the port, past the coal-yards, arid then
along the 'beautiful' road that. skirts the bay untii they
entered "the city of Las'Palmas.; ' • '"' ; ¦
As it was still early they drove about the- town before
going- to the hotel for breakfast. \ Las Palmas they -found
to be a more modern city than Funchal, and on that
account, less picturesque. There were no bullock-sleds,
,s6

IAS PALMAS, GRAND CANARY

CANARY ISLANDS
and some horses were seen, mostly attached to carriages ;
merchandise, so far as our young travelers were able to
discover, was carried about on the heads of men and
women. Stores and shops were abundant and displayed
a good assortment of wares. Ladies were out marketing,
with shawls thrown over the head and shoulders so as to
conceal the face, excepting a little patch about one eye.
The women in humble life moved about freely with
uncovered faces.
It was half-past eight when they alighted at the hotel,
and they were ready to do ample justice to the breakfast
that was waiting for them. At the table they met Captain
Charles Thompson, master of the steamer Kisanga, home
ward bound from the coast of Africa. His steamer had
come in during the night, and as it was to take on coal
and water, as well as cochineal and bananas, it would not
sail before evening. He brought the latest news from the
"Coast," as this part of the Dark Continent is always
called ; but as it was mostly of a personal nature, our
young travelers were not much interested in it. To the
Ogowe Band it appeared to consist mostly of fevers, deaths,
and "went home" on such and such a steamer. They
were somewhat relieved to hear that the "Coast" was
healthy at present; that is, there was nowhere any
epidemic. When old coasters return to the shores of
Africa with somewhat of dread, those who are making
their first voyage may be excused for being a little
nervous. Captain Thompson appeared to be a most pleasant
and agreeable gentleman, and Judge McGee invited him
to join the party in an excursion among the mountains.
To this the Captain gave his consent, and he proved to be
in every way a delightful companion. He had a houseful
57

CANARY ISLANDS
of young people at home, and he knew just how to
interest and amuse the young folks.
After breakfast they adjourned to the court of the
hotel, opening out upon the garden, and a merrier party
was never seen at Las Palmas. The two Captains told of
their early adventures in various parts of the world^and
the boys began to wish it had fallen to their lot to be
sailors too. Both gentlemen had sailed to almost every
part of the earth, and one of them had lived nearly a year
in America. Conversation flowed on in a steady stream,
and in the meanwhile Judge McGee went with the hotel
proprietor to make arrangements for the coming excur
sion. In half an hour he returned and reported that all
was ready. Five open carriages, each drawn by three horses
harnessed abreast, were in waiting in the street. The
Judge assisted Lulu Wright and Grace Thompson into the
first one, and then got in himself ; upon the seat with the
driver was the son of the hotel proprietor in the capacity
of guide and interpreter. Captain Davis, Jessie Williams
and Laura Reed occupied the second carriage ; Captain
Thompson, Mamie Belville and Hattie Clark, the third ;
while the boys followed in the two remaining ones.
When all were embarked, the drivers whipped up their
horses and the procession rattled along at a lively rate.
They passed the public square and through several of the
principal streets, crossed a small river, now nearly dry,
and were presently upon the outskirts of the town. The
road, which was macadamized, was in splendid order, and
followed the little stream as it flowed down its rocky bed
in the narrow valley. Terraced gardens were built against
the steep hillside, and these were planted with pine-apples,
bananas, figs, oranges, lemons and grapes, as well as with
58

CANARY ISLANDS
many kinds of garden vegetables and flowers. A little
further on the valley widened and there were many small
fields of bananas with palm trees growing close by the
river banks. The bananas were of the short variety, with
many dark leaves, but they bore enormous bunches of
fruit, and the young tourists thought it would be nice to
have a few of them growing in the back yards of their
homes in Philadelphia. The date palms filled them with
wonder and admiration. Here, right before their eyes,
were the trees they had read of in the Bible. It was just
such trees as these that grew in Egypt, in the desert, and
in the Jordan Valley.
It must be confessed that a palm tree, when one
stands close by it, is not a specially beautiful object ; but
when seen at a little distance, so that some of the details
are lost in the general outline, it is one of the most grace
ful and striking objects in the vegetable kingdom. When
one who has spent some years in the tropics returns to his
northern home, after all else is forgotten, the graceful
palm waving its feathery arms in the brilliant sunlight,
will be constantly before the mind, its enchanting beauty
luring him to return.
The road again crossed the stream and began to
ascend the mountain side. The sun was hot, but the
pure fresh air from the ocean tempered the heat and made
the ride most enjoyable. The steeper hillsides were bare
of vegetation excepting a few coarse shrubs, but the
gentler slopes had been terraced and planted with various
crops. In many places the cliffs had been tunneled and
houses cut out of the solid rock. These usually had a
door and one or two windows next the road ; how many
rooms there might be in the cave dwellings our young
friends could not tell. Provided the cliff faced the north,
59

CANARY ISLANDS
one might readily imagine these houses to be cool and
comfortable in a hot climate.
Upon the roofs of some of the houses in the valley
below them, were large bunches of some material of a
deep orange color, evidently spread out to dry. None of
the party could imagine what it was, but the guide told
those in the first carriage it was Indian corn. " In this
island," said he, "but little grain of any kind is raised,
arid the people value this corn very highly for feeding to
their animals."
Judge McGee asked why they did not raise bananas,
sell them, and buy corn with the money, as in this way
they could get fully ten times as much from the ground.
The guide replied that he could not tell, but perhaps
it was because ships seldom came over from America
They were now approaching the .summit; to their
surprise the character of the soil improved, and it was
everywhere carefully cultivated. The road was no longer
steep and the increasing number of houses indicated a con
siderable population. To the amazement of the party,
* here upon the mountain heights a little stream went
dashing along the road, singing merrily as it leaped by in
the bright sunlight. It was a useful little stream too. A
channel had been cut for it in the solid rock, and here,
standing up to their knees in the rushing water, were the
wives and daughters of the mountaineers washing then-
own clothes and those of the town people.
Jolly, merry groups they were, laughing and talking
as they soaped the clothes and pounded them down upon
the stones. In many cases the children were with them ;
those who were old enough had to help with the work as
they were able, while the babies lay kicking up their
heels in the shade of a bush or tree. They eyed the pro-
60

CANARY ISLANDS
cession curiously as it passed, and no doubt wondered
where all these fine people came from, and what brought
them to their island home.
The girls were astonished at the way the clothes
were pounded on the rocks and thought they would be
hammered all to pieces. Hattie asked Captain Thomp
son if they had no wash-boards. He replied that this
was the common way of washing clothes in many parts
of the world, and that it did not wear out clothes faster
than our fashion of rubbing them, provided a little care
was used, and the stone was perfectly smooth. " In some
countries I have visited," said he, "they beat the clothes
with a club or mallet; this injures them far more."
The top of the mountain was a broad table-land, and
the road was nearly level, so they rattled away at a good
pace. There were vineyards on either side of the road,
and occasionally a grove of fig trees. The vintage was
past, but a few late clusters had been left on the vines,
and now hung ripening in the autumn sun. The harvest
for figs had of course long since passed, although plenty
were still to be found in the markets. Several fields of
thick-leaved cacti were seen ; women were at work in the
fields, and as nearly as the Ogowe' Band could make out,
they were cutting oft the broad, heavy leaves and laying
them in the sun to wilt. The guide told Judge McGee
that the women were feeding the cochineal insects. When
the cochineal was ready for shipment it was worth two
dollars a pound, and was sent mostly to the continent
where it was used to color candies. " It is a great deal of
trouble," said he, "and not much of it is raised."
On the very top of the mountain was a village and
here the carriages stopped while the horses were watered
and recovered their wind a little. Beyond the village the
61

CANARY ISLANDS
road declined some and then gradually ascended to the
next summit. The table-land in the interior of the island
was more pleasing than the hillsides toward the coast.
The land was all carefully cultivated and presented
many charming scenes of rural beauty. The number
of cave dwellings increased and in some places the
hillsides appeared to be honeycombed with these primi
tive houses. The procession came to a halt before a large iron
gateway which opened into the grounds surrounding a
fine country home. The guide wished to show them the
flowers and fruit trees. The family were not at home, so
they were not annoyed by such a host of visitors. Sev
eral fine orange trees attracted attention ; they were not
much larger than good sized peach trees, but the limbs
did not branch so near the ground, and the tops were
much thicker. The leaves were very dark green, and as
some of the fruit was coloring, the contrast was a pretty
one. Willie inquired if these were the apples of gold,
spoken of in the Bible, and Judge McGee replied that he
thought they were.
A red-tailed parrot in a large cage near the house
was a great attraction to the girls. It talked just like a
person, but as it only spoke Spanish our friends could not
make out what it said.
While the girls were engaged with the parrot, the
boys were looking at some tame rabbits. They were just
as pretty as they could be and held up their ears in a very
knowing way. After visiting the garden and gathering
all the flowers they cared to carry, the Judge gave the
gardener a couple of shillings, and some sixpences to his
children, and then the party resumed their ride.
62

CANARY ISLANDS
After crossing another ridge they descended into a
broad valley, and here, beneath the shade .of some low
trees, with a little mountain brook just across the road,
the Judge called a halt and invited them all to alight and
have a picnic. The rest of the party wondered where he
would get his provisions, but at a word from him, the
guide removed the seat from the first carriage, and, with
the aid of the driver, drew forth a large, well-filled hamper.
Exclamations of surprise were followed by commen
dations of the Judge's thoughtfulness, and the girls went
to work at once to "set the table." They made the boys
stir around lively and help them, and they were soon as
busy as possible. And yet, with all their activity, it was
not so easy. There was no grass, and when it comes to
"setting the table" on a lot of stones, it is not so readily
accomplished as one might wish. Captain Thompson,
who was skillful in every emergency, came to their assist
ance, so that at last all was ready and they sat down.
The carriages had been sent to a little village not far
ahead, where the horses could eat and rest ; thus leaving
them more to themselves. The fresh air, and excitement
of the ride, had given them an appetite, and they gave
undivided attention to the good things Judge McGee had
provided. By and by they began to look about them and
note in detail the features of the novel landscape spread
out before them. "The style of building in this part of
the island," said he, "reminds me strongly of Syria."
"Yes," responded Captain Thompson, " one might
readily imagine he was in one of the ports of Asia
Minor." "I have read," said Laura, "that some of the cities
of Arabia are cut out of the rock ; are the houses in
those cities anything like these?" 63

CANARY ISLANDS
"Yes," answered the Judge, "but very much more
elaborate. They had temples, palaces and other public"
buildings, while these are only private dwellings, and very
humble ones at that."
Jessie desired to know what the Bible meant to teach
when it said, "The righteous shall flourish like the palm
tree." :
" I suppose it means," replied the Judge, "they shall
grow in beauty and usefulness." ;.
"Why does it say they shall bring forth fruit in old
age?" asked Robbie. . * ^
• "The palm," continued he, "bears its heaviest crops,
when old. ' It does not begin to bear until it is some size,
and then the bunches of fruit are small and poor, but as
it grows older it yields better fruit and larger bunches.
So a Christian is not expected to bear fruit at once ; it i$
enough for him to live and grow ; but when he gets old,
if he has" 'been planted in, the house of; the- Lord' he
should bring forth abundant fruit. ' '
- ; ..Grace thanked the Judge for his explanation and said
it .was so much .easier to understand ' when the tree: stood
right -before them.
"I think," remarked Willie, addressing Captain
Thompson, " I heard you say at the hotel you; were going
to take on board a cargo of bananas."
"Yes," responded the Captain, " I will take.on a deejk
load. I am full of palm oil and other African produce,
but' I will call 'at Havre, and so will carry as many
bananas as the deck will hold;"
"I should think they would be washed away,". said
Johnny. ; .,••.> ...-¦•-.. .,.,.
"Each bunch," continued the Captain, "is carefully
put up in a long narrow basket, well stuffed with the
64

DATE PALM, GRAND CANARY

CANARY ISLANDS
dried leaves, and a canvas cover sewed over the end,
through the centre of which the stem protrudes. Packed
in this way they will bear pretty rough treatment with
out injury." "How much do they bring?" asked Frank.
"They will average," replied the Captain, "at least a
dollar and a quarter a bunch. We get twenty-five cents
for freight ; another twenty- five may be set down for the
cost of the basket, packing, and commission ; leaving
seventy-five cents to be divided between the shipper and
the grower." Grant desired to know how long it took them to
grow. The Captain did not know exactly, but he thought
it was somewhat more than a year.
Lulu inquired whether there were any wild canary
birds on the island.
The guide said there were, but he thought not very
many. " When the island was discovered," said he, "it
was covered with trees and bushes, and there were many
canaries ; but now the trees are cut down and the ground
cultivated, so there are few places for them to hide. Those
that are offered for sale in the shops are raised in captivity,
which is easier and cheaper than to try and catch wild
ones." The carriages now returned from the village and were
followed by a number of brown-faced children who doubt
less wanted to have a look at the strangers. They were
too timid to come very near, but stopped a little distance
down the road and gazed with undisguised admiration at
the young tourists, perhaps wondering if that were the
sort of people who lived in the lands beyond the sea.
However, it is quite as likely they did not think anything,
v 65

CANARY ISLANDS
for in this priest-ridden country the common people are
kept as ignorant as the dumb beasts who share their
labors. Two women came with the children, each bringing
a bunch of fresh dates. The Judge sent the guide to buy
them and then distributed the fruit among the party.
They were sweet and good, but did not taste very different
from the dried ones at home.
The Ogowe Band were sorry to leave their camping-
place ; it was so pleasant, and the little brook, singing
merrily as it hurried on its way, had quite won their
hearts ; but the sun was turning toward the west, and
both Captains were anxious to get back to their ships.
The horses were refreshed by their dinner and willing to
make good speed homewards, and by four o'clock they
were rattling, through the streets of Las Palmas, and soon
drew up in front of the hotel. Here they had a cup of
coffee while they rested a little, and then walked down to
the boat-landing, for Captain Thompson had left word for
his steam-launch to meet him there with his boat in tow,
at five o'clock. The boat would not hold so large a number,
but by transferring the boys to the launch, and steaming
slowly, they went along nicely enough.
Captain Thompson left his friends at the Nubia, and
after expressing his thanks for the pleasant day he had
spent, and wishing them a hearty "bon voyage," he went
over to his own ship.

66

Chapter V.

TROPICAL VOYAGING.

^** *HE Nubia sailed from the harbor of Las
J^^"*v Palmas a few minutes before sundown. As
\jP^ they passed the Kisanga she was just heav-
^"T*^ ing anchor, and she followed close behind
» them. Captain Thompson was on the bridge
and he waved his hand at the young voyagers as they
passed. The two steamers kept near each other until they
reached the Point, when the Nubia turned to the right
down the eastern shore of the island, and the Kisanga
headed for Cape Finisterre on the Spanish coast.
The Ogowe Band had enjoyed a full day, and were
quite disposed to act upon the Captain's suggestion to go
to bed early. During the night the island was lost sight
of, and next morning nothing was to be seen but sky and
water. The ship was steaming nearly parallel with the
Great Desert and was heading for Cape Blanco.
The young voyagers were up early, and after a good
romp and a hearty breakfast, they settled down in their
comfortable chairs beneath the awning and talked of the
great sandy desert along which they were sailing.
67

TROPICAL VOYAGING
" Is it all nothing but sand? " asked Hattie.
"No," answered the Judge, "some portions of it are
fertile, and again other portions are stony, and there are
many hills."
"What is such a great barren waste good for?"
inquired Mamie.
"It must be admitted," replied the Judge, "that it is
not very valuable, and yet it is made to serve some useful
purposes. Quite a good many people live there ; it is a
great natural stove warming the Mediterranean and the
Southern coast of Europe, and it serves as a Northern
rampart to protect the great negro nations who live in the
central portion of the African continent."
Laura desired to know what the Judge meant by his
last remark, and so he continued: - "If yon will take a
map of Africa and look at it carefully, you will see that
God has hedged in the negro nations, in' a way truly
wonderful. On the nqrthyis the Great Desert, on the
northeast the Nubian Desert, and on the south the Kalahari
Desert. Both the east and west coasts are devoid of good
harbors, the rivers empty by deltas; that are not easily
found, and the climate -is so unhealthy that no colonies
can be successful. Such a combination of circumstances
cannot be found anywhere else in; the world. Design is
plainly evident in all this, and God- undoubtedly has an
interesting and important future in store for the black
race." "What do you think this future, may be?" asked
Robbie. "I do not know," was the reply, "but I think it
means at least the preservation of the race. In America,
all portions of which are reasonably healthy, the native
races are melting away before the advance of the Caucasian,
68

LOU ROCK, MADEIRA

TROPICAL VOYAGING
but unless climatic conditions change, the negro will
remain to the end of time."
The Captain now joined the party arid Grace told
him they were talking about the desert.
"Were you ever there?" inquired Jessie.
"Some few years ago," said he, "I called at a place
nearly opposite to where we are now, to land some cargo,
mostly provisions and other supplies. A French company
were trying to cut a channel through the sand so as to let
the sea flow into the desert and fill it up."
The Band gave an exclamation of surprise. "Fill
up the desert with water ! Now that's an idea," laughed
Lulu. The Judge said he had heard something of this
before, and requested the Captain to tell them what he
knew of the enterprise.
"Well," was the reply, "you know of course that a
portion of the desert is below the sea-level, indeed much
of it was once an inland sea. This sea, like the Mediter
ranean, was connected with the Atlantic by a narrow
strait. The surf on this part of the coast is very heavy,
and in course of ages this strait was gradually filled with
sand ; when it was entirely closed, the water that was left
in this sea was evaporated and became the sandy waste we
now find there."
"When did this take place?" inquired Frank.
" Since the Christian era," was the reply, " for there
are records to show that in the time of Constantine there
were lakes or reedy marshes in the southwestern por
tion." " Only think," exclaimed Hattie, " if the canal were
finished, we might pass through and sail direct to
Timbuctoo ! " 69

TROPICAL VOYAGING
The Band thought that would be just jolly, but the
Captain told them he thought they would have to wait
awhile, as the enterprise was abandoned and not likely soon
to be resumed. He then explained to them that the work
was a very expensive one and not likely to bring large
returns, as the traffic passing through would not be great,
at least for a long time to come.
While they were talking, there was a flash of light
through the air that made them start, and a bright object
fell at their feet. It was a fine plump fish about ten inches
long. The large pectoral fins spreading out on each side
like wings, showed the new-comer to be a flying-fish.
The young voyagers were delighted ; they examined
the fish carefully, and were greatly pleased with its silvery
appearance. " It looks like our Delaware river rock-fish," exclaimed
Johnny. " It is lighter colored than a rock-fish ; see, it has no
stripes on the side," replied Saxe.
The Purser, who had just come up stairs, joined the
party, and informed them that it closely resembled the
African mullet.
The Captain told them that flying-fish often came on
board at night, being attracted probably by the headlight;
but that many more came on board sailing-ships than on
steamers, perhaps because sailing-ships traveled more
slowly and quietly.
"Would he be good to eat?" asked Hattie.
"Yes," answered the Captain, "they are excellent
eating, and you shall have this one for breakfast to-mor
row. He then blew his pocket whistle as a signal to the
quartermaster who was working about the saloon-deck.
The man promptly responded with a respectful " Aye, Sir,"
70

TROPICAL VOYAGING
at the same time tipping his cap, and Captain Davis told
him to give the fish to the steward with instructions to
have it nicely cooked for the young ladies' breakfast.
The girls wanted to know more about these wonder
ful fish. The Captain told them they were everywhere
plentiful in the warmer regions of the earth.
"Why do they fly?" inquired Jessie.
" To get away from their enemies," was the reply.
" When they are chased by larger fish, they leap from the
water to escape pursuit."
Laura asked whether in flying they flap their wings
like birds, or only sustain themselves in the air by the
impetus of their leap.
The Captain said he could not tell ; he had never
seen any motion to their wings, but as these were nearly
transparent, especially when wet, it was a hard matter to
determine whether they moved them or not.
The conversation now turned upon fishes and fishing,
a subject in which both boys and girls took a deep interest.
The Purser told them there was a species of fish that had
a soft flat head of such a nature that it could, and did,
attach itself to the sides of ships and thus be carried along
with the vessel without any effort of its own. " These fish,"
said he, "will attach themselves to the bottom of a steamer
and hold on there until something is thrown overboard,
when they will go and eat what they can of it, and then
come back to the ship again. In this way they can make a
long voyage with us."
" Come now, what are you giving us?" exclaimed
Willie. "We may be young," observed Grant, "but we want
a better bait than that on the hook before we bite."

71

TROPICAL VOYAGING
The Purser asked to be excused a moment, and he
soon returned with a large handful of breadcrusts from
the pantry. . After looking intently over the side, he
-called the young folks to. come and look too. ."There,"
: said, he, pointing down in the water, "do you see. that
fish?" Some of them saw a break in the water close to
the ship's side, and a few feet below the surface ; but most
of them could distinguish nothing owing to the waves.
"Now," continued the Purser, "you watch closely while
I throw some bread in the water." He went forward a
little and then threw half of the bread overboard; as it
struck the water a large fish, perhaps • three feet long,
darted from the ship's side and swam for the bread.
Exclamations of surprise burst from a dozen young
throats, and even the Judge was somewhat taken back.
Presently the Purser threw the rest of the bread, and this
time two fish were plainly seen to swim for it.
After this lesson the Ogowe Band were less skeptical,
and the Captain tried his hand at a fish story. "There is,"
said he, "in the beautiful bay of Loanda, in the province
of Angola, a fish that is certainly remarkable. This fish
grows to a length of several feet, and it has a habit of
coming beneath vessels that are at anchor and making a
.doleful noise, as of a man in great pain. Oftentimes the
crews of sailing-ships are not able to sleep for .these noises,
and must get-up in the night and splash on the water to
drive them. away." , .
"Do you tell that for a fact? ".queried the judge.
"Yes sir," replied the Captain, " it is a fact." t The
sailors say the fish put their backs against the vessel when
.they make these noises, but how that is I cannot say."
! ~ ' . ¦ " "( Do. sharks ever' come near the steamers? " . inquired
Grace.

72

TROPICAL VOYAGING
"Yes," said the Captain, "the water is full of them."
"O my!" exclaimed Mamie, "to think that we are
surrounded by sharks ! "
" Well," responded the Captain, " they won't hurt you
as long as you stay on board the ship."
Frank desired to know if sharks really could tell
when there was a dead body on a ship.
"I cannot say," answered the Captain, "but it seems
to be at least probable. They do seem to know if there
is a serious case of sickness on board. I have known a
shark to follow a ship for days when a man has been sick.
Sailors bear a shark no good will, perhaps as much for
this reason as any other."
"Are sharks good to eat?" asked Saxe.
"Not very," responded the Captain, " the meat is dry
and coarse, and not of good flavor. I have eaten a young
shark that tasted pretty fairly, but perhaps it. was because
we had been eating salt meat for a long time."
"I have heard that sharks will swallow almost any
thing," observed the Judge.
" Indeed they can," said the Purser. "I remember
I was once in the West Indies when a shark was washed
up dead on the beach. He was an enormous fellow, full
eighteen feet long. Such an occurrence is very rare, and
the natives naturally flocked to the shore to see it. They
examined it carefully, and there was much speculation as
to how it came to its death, for there were no marks of
violence upon it. Presently one of the more thoughtful
ones opened its mouth, which was as large as a trap-door,
and looked in. To his surprise he saw a half-barrel full
of fish ; a careful examination led them to conclude that
an empty half-barrel, with one head out, must have been
floating on the water. The shark no doubt supposing this
73

TROPICAL VOYAGING
was a man or some other dainty morsel, swallowed it, and
was unable to spit it out again. The open end of the
half-barrel being up, after that all the fish he caught went
into the half-barrel, and he starved to death."
The Judge thought he detected a certain air of im
probability running through the story, but he said noth
ing, and just then the bell rang for lunch, which put an
end to story telling.
When they came on deck again a large school of
porpoises were coming near the steamer. They were a
little distance ahead, and they were coming so as to cross
the steamer's track. There were a great many of them,
apparently several hundreds, and they were constantly
leaping in the air as they hurried forward.
The Ogowe Band were delighted, and quite excited
too, for the sight of so many wild creatures leaping in the
air, and so near to them, was calculated to warm older
blood than theirs. It was not long before the steamer was
close up to them. They did not appear to be at all afraid
of the vessel, for some dived under it, while others swam
right alongside, not six feet away, and acted just as if
they were trying to race with the ship. It was indeed a
wondrous sight ; one which even old travelers view with
delight. The water was so clear that those that were
near the Nubia could be seen as they put forth all their
energies to keep up with the steamer. They would be
swimming along some feet beneath the surface, when,
without any warning, they would leap in the air," make a
blowing noise, and dart down again into the sea.
Robbie asked why they made the noise.
The Captain told them the porpoise was not a fish
like a shark, but a warm-blooded animal like a pig, and
he needed to come to the surface to breathe quite as much.
74

TROPICAL VOYAGING
as a whale. "They have a blow-hole," said he, "on top
of their heads near the eyes ; when they leap from the
water they blow out the air from their lungs, take fresh
breath and then dive down again."
"I thought," said Lulu, " they just jumped for fun."
"No," continued the Captain, '" they come up to
breathe, for they cannot remain long at a time under
water." The porpoises were plucky fellows, and kept up
the race for some time. But they were not a match for
the tireless arms of the engine, and so by and by they
dropped astern.
The Ogowe Band sat down and begged the Captain to
tell them about porpoises. He was always willing to
oblige his little passengers, and besides was not averse to
spinning a yarn.
"The sailors," said he, "call the porpoise a 'sea-pig,'
because it looks much like a pig when it jumps from the
water. When I was a boy in a sailing ship, we did not
have so many kinds of preserved food as we have now ;
indeed we had little else but salt pork, salt beef and hard
tack. Then, too, our voyages were much longer than
they are now, and we were glad enough to get a bit of
fresh meat of any kind. It often happened that porpoises
would come about when we had but little wind and the
ship was almost motionless in the water. At such times
one of the sailors would go forward on the bowsprit and
when a porpoise came near, harpoon it. As soon as the
porpoise was struck he would splash about at a great rate,
but soon his strength would be exhausted and the poor
fellow would be hauled up on deck by plenty of willing
hands whose only thought was of the good dinner in store
for them. The skin is an inch thick ; when shaved quite
thin it makes excellent leather. Underneath the skin is a
75

TROPICAL VOYAGING
layer of fat from which oil of a fine quality may be
extracted. The flesh is dark colored and full of blood,
and we sailors used to think it was excellent eating. Per
haps we might think differently now, although I must
say I should like a nice porpoise steak to-day."
The Band thanked him for the information, and the
Judge added that in former times the flesh was highly
esteemed and reckoned fit for the table of royalty. In
the time of Queen Elizabeth it was still used by the
nobles of England, and was served up with bread-crumbs
and vinegar. The young folks thought they would like
to have some, but the Captain said he could not afford to
stop a steamer for the sake of catching a porpoise.
The ship's Doctor now came on deck and stood by
the rail looking out over the sea. Turning to our. young
friends he asked if they had seen the " Portuguese men-of-
war." They did not quite understand him but they went
to the side of the ship and the Doctor pointed to some
delicate pink shells that were floating on the blue waves ;
these, he told them, were the nautilus, or as the sailors
call them, "Portuguese men-of-war."
The little mariners held up two arms that had broad
hands spread to the wind and answered very well for sails,
while other arms rested on the water and were doubtless
used as paddles. The shells appeared very delicate, and
perhaps large enough to hold half-a-pint. Hundreds of
them were in sight, all sailing before the wind, and ap
parently enjoying the warm air and bright sunlight.
The young folks asked the Doctor to tell them about
these little fish that sailed along so jauntily in their beau
tiful pink yachts.
He replied, "The nautilus belongs to an interesting
order of mollusca now reduced to a few species, but which
76

TROPICAL VOYAGING
were very abundant in some of the geological periods.
They are found only in very warm climates. The shell
is divided into sections, and the animal lives only in the
outside one. The inside sections may be filled either
with air or water, as the owner desires. It commonly
inhabits the bottom of the sea, walking about in search
of its food which consists of small shell-fish. It has a
beak something like a parrot, with the edges notched, so
that it can hold on to shells and break them.
"At certain times they come to the surface to sail
about in the bright sunlight, as you have seen them
to-day." Johnny told the Doctor he had heard the chief officer
say something about the "trades" not being strong, and
he desired to know what that meant.
The Doctor explained to them that they were now
in the northeast trade-wind region, that the sailors call
these winds "the trades," and that what the chief officer
wished to say was that these winds were not strong this
voyage. " The great heat in the equatorial region," said he,
" causes the air to rise ; the colder air from the temperate
regions rushes in to fill the vacuum. If there were no dis
turbing elements this would produce a due north and
south wind coming directly toward the equator from
either side ; but the earth is turning rapidly from west to
east, more rapidly indeed than the air does ; the conse-
qence is that these air currents are given a westerly
direction, and become in the northern hemisphere a north
east wind, and in the southern hemisphere a southeast
wind. These winds, to some extent, follow the sun ; the
northeast trades sometimes come up as far as Madeira, and
then again their northern limit is a day's steaming south
77

TROPICAL VOYAGING
of the Canaries. Sometimes, too, they are stroriger than
others, but they always blow in one direction."
The Band thanked the Doctor, and then resumed
their seats. They found the Judge and the Captain talk
ing about the sea-serpent.
" Do you believe there is such a thing as a sea-ser
pent?" asked the Judge.
"That is a direct question," responded the Captain,
"and I am not able to answer it directly. It is the fash
ion of the time to laugh at any one who thinks he has
seen what may be a sea-serpent. On several occasions
ship-captains have come forward to make oath to what
they have witnessed, and their chief reward has been rid
icule by the newspapers. These papers have suggested
that the Captains were tipsy when they thought they saw
the great snakes. For this reason mariners are reluctant
to testify to what they have seen, through fear of being
treated as impostors. I have never seen the monster
myself, but I recognize the fact that the testimony of one
man who has seen a thing, is worth more than that of a
thousand who have not seen it. Many hundreds of per
sons, in different parts of the world, have seen the sea-
serpent, and I do not see why the truth of its existence
may not be considered established. If the size of these
monsters causes you landsmen to be skeptical, 3'ou should
remember there are inhabitants of the deep that quite
equal them in bulk. Whales that exceed eighty feet in
length are not uncommon, and when we consider their
great thickness we can easily have enough to make a first-
class sea-serpent, and leave a few tons to spare."
"Fossil remains of reptiles that lived ages ago in
your own State of New Jersey have been found," said the
Doctor, "that could swallow a full-sized man as easily as
78

TROPICAL VOYAGING
a frog swallows a fly. This has been proved by geolo
gists beyond a doubt. If such things have lived, why is
it impossible for some members of this reptile family to
be still prowling about in the depths of the ocean?"
The Judge replied that he considered this evidence to
be of a somewhat negative character, and that for the
present he would withhold his decision ; but he would say
this, if any of the reptiles the Doctor referred to were still
living, they must at least be aged.
The party now broke up ; the girls went down stairs
to prepare for dinner, and the boys took a stroll forward
among the men. Their minds were full of what they had
just heard, and Frank asked the boatswain if he could
tell them anything about the sea-serpent.
"Sure and is it the sea-sarpint ye would be after
inquir'en of me about?" said he. "Won day in forty-
nine, when we men were comin' from Californy, we were
becalmed in the West Ingies, and the Cap'en, he sez to
me, sez he, ' Mike, what is that pint o'land on the lee
bow?' sez he. Sez I, 'wait till I clap my weather eye on
it Cap'en,' and when I looked I tole him, I be blowed if I
knowed. That pint o'land was all covered with scales
like, intromingled with long hair, and its eyes flashed fire,
and smoke at interwals. By and by it begun to sink and
it kep' on a sinken fur three days hand-runnin, and if
that ain't a sea-sarpint fur ye I don't know what iswun."
The boys listened with awe to this story of the
ancient mariner, and they went back to the cabin without
asking any more questions.
In the evening, as they all sat upon the deck enjoy
ing the beauties of the night, the Judge told his young
companions about the cochineal they had seen the women
gathering at Grand Canary. 79

TROPICAL VOYAGING
"Cochineal," said he, " consists simply of the bodies
of a species of insect that feeds upon, plants of the cactus
family, particularly upon one known in Mexico as the
Nopal. This plant is nearly allied to the prickly pear.
The insect is a. small creature of a deep red color, and has
white wings. It is calculated that it, takes seventy thou
sand of them in a dried state to weigh a pound. The
gathering, of the cochineal is very tedious and is accom
plished by brushing the branches of the cactus with the
tail of- a squirrel or Other animal. , The insects are killed
either by boiling water, or by heating them in ovens. It
is cultivated in the Canary Islands and Mexico,' but has
never succeeded in the East Indies. , : . , ¦
The Captain told his young passengers that as they
had -now reached the warmer waters , of the tropics, it
would be well for them to come' out every morning at
sunrise when the decks were washed down, and; have a
bath under the hose. They accepted his suggestion, and
after this, as long as they remained on the Nubia, they
came out every morning when they heard the; sailors
scrubbing the decks arid had a good -shower bath and a
frolic. A strong pump, run by the engine, throws a
stream of salt water through the hose and is an excellent
means for giving a man a ducking. The girls did not
care to get up quite so early and when they were ready
they had a salt water plunge in the bath-room.
: The Captain had a large goat named Billy. He was
a great favorite among the men who had much rude sport
with him. Billy was strongly, inclined to strike things
with his head. When he wished to make an examination
of any strange object, his fashion was to rear high on his
hind legs and come down against it with' his head with
all his force. The sailors thought this was very funny
80

LADY OF HIGH RANK, OLD CALABAR

TROPICAL VOYAGING
and they looked upon him as one of the crew. There
was one sad trial in Billy's life. Every morning when
the decks were washed down, Billy had to be washed too.
Four men were detailed for this job. They skirmished
around the deck until Billy was caught and then led him,
a defiant but unhappy prisoner, to a place near the after
hatch where he was lashed "fore and aft" to the side of
the ship and the hose turned on him. When he was
thoroughly soaked a sailor came carefully up to him and
soaped him all over, and then he was thoroughly rinsed
again with the hose. Poor Billy was not fond of his morn
ing bath ; sometimes he tried to hide, and at other times
he showed fight and was only captured after a lively tus
sle, but in the end he would be forced to submit and take
his regular washing.
Among the sailors was an old man, who, by some
means had been taken as one of the crew. He was not
well when the steamer left Liverpool, and had grown
gradually worse until half-past three, when he died ; the
body was sewn up in a sack and laid on a grating. The
funeral took place two hours later on the main-deck in
front of the Captain's room. An empty pork barrel was
covered with a flag and one end of the grating was to be
laid on this, and the other end was to rest on the bulwark.
When all was ready, the bell was tolled, the engines
stopped, the body on the grating brought aft and laid in
its place. The passengers, together with as many of the
ship's company as could be spared, gathered around while.
the Purser read the burial service. Then one end of the
grating was raised, the body slid off into the sea, the Pur
ser read a prayer and the benediction, and all was over.
At the Captain's command the engines were started "full
speed ahead," and the ship resumed her voyage.
vi 81

TROPICAL VOYAGING
It was a solemn scene, and the little voyagers shud
dered as they thought of the possibility of one of their
own number being thrown overboard.
"Poor old man," said Lulu, "I wonder if he had
any one to love him ! "
"Very likely he has an old wife," responded Laura,
"who will be expecting him when the ship returns, and
then she will hear that she will never see him again."
The voyage lost some of its charm after the death of
the old sailor, and the Ogowe Band were not sorry, when,
seven days after leaving Las Palmas, they saw they were
approaching land. The water was no longer clear as it
had been, and to the eastward, as well as ahead, a low,
dark line of vegetation appeared above the water; this
was their first sight of the great African continent.
Early in the afternoon the shore line began to take
on a definite form and they saw they were steaming into a
bay, the shores of which were low and covered with a thick
growth of trees and bushes. Ahead of them, on a low,
rocky cape, was a tall light-house that marks the entrance
to the harbor, or, rather, river of Sierra Leone. By 4
p. M. they were abreast of the light-house ; and, turning
sharply to the left, they steamed up the river to the
anchorage in front of the town.
The young travelers gazed with intense interest upon
their first African landscape, and they felt almost oppressed
by the rich, dense verdure which crowded upon their vis
ion. Groves of oil-palms, their feathery arms like great
ostrich plumes, waving in the gentle breeze; and tall
cottori-woods, covered with a wealth of vines completely
hiding the trunks and converting them into great columns
of living green, especially attracted their attention. Be
neath the palms and almost hidden from view were clus-
82

TROPICAL VOYAGING
ters of little brown houses, the homes of the native
Africans. Upon the water were small canoes in which
men were engaged in catching fish, while larger canoes
were sailing by, doubtless returning home after having
disposed of their produce in the town.
The air was very warm, and there was a steaminess
about it that was distinctly noticeable, and which made
them disinclined to any exertion, or, as Hattie expressed it,
"It made them feel like a wet rag." The town is twenty
miles above the light-house, and they came to anchor
just before sundown, giving them an opportunity to get a
little idea of the place before it was time to go below for
dinner. Freetown "is beautifully situated at the foot of a
mountain three thousa,nd feet high, on the south bank of
the Sierra Leone River, and is surrounded on the east and
south by a magnificent amphitheatre of hills and mount
ains. The slopes of this mountain are covered with a
tall, coarse grass, with here and there a few trees ; and, for
some distance up, is dotted with neat little villages, and
the country residences of foreign merchants. Along the
water a heavy wall has been built, with a pier where pas
sengers and cargo may be landed. In a sheltered cove is
the coaling station, and on the hillside above the town are
the barracks for the troops. Our friends were surprised
to find the town so solidly built, and having such an
appearance of civilization in this out-of-the-way corner of
the world. Many of the buildings were of stone, and
from the steamer's deck appeared solid and substantial.
Jn the evening as they were seated upon deck the
Judge told his young companions something of the his
tory of Sierra Leone. "During the war of the revolu
tion," said he, "a large number of blacks ranged them-
83

TROPICAL VOYAGING
selvesunder the British banner. At the close of the war
they followed the army to London; and, when- that dis
banded, they found themselves strangers in a strange
land'.- The Government determined to colonize them on
the coast of Africa, so they were brought out here and
founded the present city of Freetown. In 1807 the slave-
trade was declared piracy by England, and a squadron
was stationed on the coast for the purpose of suppressing
it. All the slaves taken by- the British cruisers have been
brought to this colony and discharged here; this has
been the main source of its increase of population."
The Captain added that there was a good system of
common-school education, together with some higher
academies, and that the language spoken was English.
He also told them that the Governor was an Ehglishriian,
but the rest of the civil officers were black men; the
troops too were natives, with. a few white officers.' The
Purser informed them that the Sierra Leone people were
great scamps, an opinion they afterward "found everywhere
prevalent on the coast.

84

t&$*J&'%0mr--'<-£$>' .

tift^um . a

REGENT STREET, SIERRA LEONE

Chapter VI.

SIERRA LEONE AND LIBERIA.

¥HE next morning the Ogowe Band were out
early, for the decks were washed soon after
the change of the watch at four o'clock ; and
before this work was finished they took
their usual bath under the hose, so they were
quite ready for coffee and toast at six o'clock.
It was a glorious morning. A shower had fallen
during the night, and, as the sun rose above the "Lone
Mountain," its beams were reflected from millions of tiny
drops, which still covered the grass and leaves like liquid
gems. The air was deliciously soft and sweet with the
fragrance of the luxurious vegetation; yet, with all its
freshness, it induced a lassitude that disinclined one to
active exertion. The inclination was to sit down and
quietly enjoy the scene, moving about with any animation
requiring a conscious effort.
Several boats had already come alongside the steamer,
and the Judge engaged two of these to take the party
ashore. The Captain was busy with a number of things
that required his attention, and could not go with them.
85

SIERRA LEONE AND LIBERIA
The heavy stone steps of the pier made an excellent land
ing ; and, as there was no surf, it was an easy matter to
step ashore from the boats. Quite a crowd of loafers
and idlers were sitting and standing about, but there
were no beggars as at Madeira. At the market-landing a
little distance away were a number of large country boats
unloading plantains, bananas, yams, and other farm pro
duce. These boats were quite good-sized and had four
rowers seated in the middle to use the oars when there
was no wind.
Our friends ascended by a broad flight of steps to the
level of the town, and then passed along the street, first
of all to the market-house. This was a large stone build
ing and arranged inside very much like the old markets
in the streets of Philadelphia. In the open space in front
of the market a great number of women were seated beside
small piles of fruit and vegetables which they had
brought for sale. Customers were solicited in loud tones
to purchase, and the din of the traffic was heard every
where. Most of the bargaining was carried on in what,
to our young tourists, was an unknown tongue ; but occa
sionally English was heard. The principal articles of
trade seemed to be plantains, yams, bananas, peppers, limes,
and a number of strange looking vegetables and fruits of
which our young friends did not know the name. Ginger-
cakes, pies, and other articles of cookery, were also dis
played, and eagerly purchased by the hungry countrymen.
From the market our young friends passed through
the streets of the business portion of the town. The
shops contained a fair asssortment of the cheaper varieties
of dry-goods and various nick-nacks; and, on one of the
corners they saw a really excellent grocery store. Most
of the shops were kept by black people, but occasionally
86

SIERRA LEONE AND LIBERIA
a white face was seen ; these were very pale and had a
deathly look which quite startled our young tourists.
They had not gone far when, on turning a corner,
they met a procession which proved to be a funeral. The
body was in a decent cloth-covered coffin, carried upon
the shoulders of four men, and was followed by a long
train of well-dressed men and women. After the funeral
cortege had passed, the Judge and his young companions
continued their walk. They were surprised to find the
streets so clean and in such good order, and the houses
and stores so substantially built.
"There is a photographer's," observed Lulu. "Per
haps he might have some pictures to sell." •
" I think it would be well for us to go in," responded
Mr. McGee, and so in they went.
The stock of ready-made pictures was not large and
they were mostly either buildings or groups of faces.
The artist informed them there was but little demand for
pictures of tropical scenery. "Most of the people who
have pictures taken," said he, "wish to send home a like
ness of the house they live in or the store where they
work, and that is all they care for." The prices were
high and the Judge bought but few, — more to have some
little souvenirs of Sierra Leone than anything else.
They now visited the residence portion of the town.
The houses scarcely came up to the American idea of
beauty and comfort, and yet, for a tropical town they were
well built, and quite suitable for a hot climate. Most of
them had small yards with a few coarse flowers ; and the
boys noticed chickens and ducks, with occasionally a pig,
and a good many black babies.
The Judge now proposed that they visit the fort, and
to this his young companions were quite agreed. A fine
87

SIERRA LEONE AND LIBERIA
broad road wound by gradual ascent up the hillside and
presently brought them to the parade ground. The com-
niander of the fort happened to be on the piazza .of his
house, and seeing they were strangers, he sent an orderly
to invite them to call upon him. The invitation' was gladly
accepted for the sun was getting very hot, and our friends
were in a dripping perspiration from their exertions.
The commander received them cordially and led- the
way. to a balcony where they had an excellent .view, of the
town and .harbor. As. our friends politely declined wine,
coffee was presently served, arid in the meanwhile the com
mander gave them a graphic description of the . country.
He told thern the country-people were quite distinct from
the town-people. "These latter," said he, '" werebrdught
here by British cruisers and call themselves Englishmen;
yetthey are inferior in many respects to the native faces,
who irideed lack education, but are a sturdy, manly set of
people." . He also informed .them, that Great Britain
claimed the, ownership of the interior, but that practically
the native itribes were independent except those who lived
in the neighborhood of Freetown ; the difficulties' of
travel ,wefe so great, and the climate • so unhealthy, that
the back country was simply; left to itself. "There is no
such thing as systematic cultivation," he continued, '-'but
the bush-people gather the spontaneous products of the
forest, and these are: brought to town, by native traders.
As a consequetice, the trade of the .port is-small, and if it
were not for the. money the steamers,, the* government,
arid the missionary societies,: spend,;' the town would be
poor enough.1 '. . . ( ; :' '--.'.
The Judge inquired if .missionary operations in. the
colony, had. been - successful, and' what "were: the Visible
results.

NATIVE VILLAGE NEAR AXIM, GOLD COAST

SIERRA LEONE AND LIBERIA
The commander replied that this was a difficult ques
tion to answer ; that much 'had been accomplished but
that much still remained to be done. "There is a very
general disposition on the part of foreign residents," said
he, " to cry down missions, and proclaim them failures,
but I have observed, that as a rule the private life of such
persons will not bear close inspection. On the other
hand, there are some missionaries sent out who are not
worthy to be such ; some are quarrelsome, and others are
unwise in their methods, but a goodly proportion of them
are earnest, devoted men, and are a real blessing to the
country. Of one thing I am sure, it is much easier for
me to govern this mixed population than it would be if
there were no missionaries. Whatever the individual
faults of these men may be, their influence is always on
the side of law and order.
" Now, as to the visible effects of their work, there is,
first, an entire absence of human sacrifice and devil wor
ship. Second, several churches in which well-dressed and
devout congregations assemble every Sabbath. Third, a
higher grade of morality, and a higher public sentiment
than there would be without them. On the whole, the
missionary movement, while it has failed to accomplish all
that some had hoped for, may yet, in my opinion, be
called a success."
It was now eleven o'clock and the commander invited
the Judge and his party to have some breakfast with him,
which invitation they thankfully accepted. At the table
there were several junior officers and their conversation
soon became animated and general.
"I think this is a very hot country," said Grace,
speaking to a young Lieutenant beside her.

SIERRA LEONE AND LIBERIA
" Not so hot as it is sometimes in Senegambia," he
replied ; " that country, as you know, borders on the Great
Desert, and occasionally they have winds called the Har-
matan, which blow for two or three days and feel as if they
came from a furnace. It dries up everything and makes
the country appear as if scorched ; even the skin cracks
and blisters from the extreme heat. During its preval
ence all business is suspended, and the people devote them
selves to keeping cool."
" I don't see how they can do it," responded Grace.
" The best plan that has yet been discovered," contin
ued the Lieutenant, "is to sit in jars. Large earthen jars
about five feet high, with a stool or a low seat in them,
are kept in the house. When the Harmatan begins to
blow, the house is closed and each of the inmates gets in
ajar and remains there until it has spent its force."
"Those must be family jars," observed Jessie, who
had been listening attentively.
"Might we not call them preserving jars," answered
the Lieutenant, "since they preserve their contents from
the heat?" "Do you have any telegraphs in Sierra Leone?"
asked Saxe of a lively young orderly next to him.
"No," he replied, "it is torn down as fast as we can
build it up."
"How is that?" inquired Saxe.
"It is all because of the monkeys," pursued the
orderly. " A monkey is as full of curiosity as a girl, and as
mischievous as a boy. As soon as the men put up the
line and move away, the monkeys come about to see what
the men have been doing ; of course they find the poles
and wire, and, after a careful inspection, they conclude it
must have been put up for them. They evidently intend
90

SIERRA LEONE AND LIBERIA
to show their entertainers that they appreciate their efforts.
For they go at once into the forest and call all their friends
and acquaintances and then have a jolly time together.
They climb the poles and jump and play upon the wires
to such an extent that both wires and poles are dragged
down and the line destroyed. As fast as we can replace
the poles and wires the monkeys tear them down, and so
we have given it up for a bad job."
Saxe listened to the young Englishman's narrative
with intense interest and then informed him that a some
what similar experience had occurred to the company that
first put up a telegraph line across the plains to California.
" There are no trees on those plains," said Saxe, " and
the buffaloes had no way to scratch their backs ; but when
the poles were put up they thought they were just ihe
thing, and crowded about them so eagerly for their turn,
that the poles were thrown down. To remedy this the
company sent to St. Louis, Chicago, and indeed all the
cities, and bought up all the brad-awls they could find,
and put these in the poles as high as the back of a large
buffalo. But if the buffaloes were eager before, they were
just frantic now, and fought their way through the mass
of animals in order to get up to the poles, for the awls
only barely reached through their thick coats, and the
poles were thrown down more than at first."
"What did they do then?" eagerly inquired the
orderly. " Greased the poles," responded Saxe ; and then there
was a good laugh.
After lunch the party repaired again to the balcony,
where the gentlemen smoked, and all drank coffee and
had a good time talking about the country and its many
objects of interest. At three o'clock the Judge and his
91

SIERRA LEONE AND LIBERIA
young companions bade their kind entertainers good-bye
and wended their way down to the landing. The sun was
still very hot, but the sea-breeze coming in tempered the
heat and the walk was a pleasant one. The Captain was
glad to see them back again, for he hardly knew what
had become of them.
At five o'clock the Nubia sailed, and her decks pre
sented a more animated appearance than when she came
in, for she had taken on board over fifty passengers.
These passengers ate and slept' on the deck, and, as Jessie
truly observed, they did not want for fresh air. They
found out afterward that a part of the company was an
additional crew, which was shipped here to work the
cargo while the steamer was on the African coast, and
would be landed here again when the ship was homeward
bound. That evening as they sat upon the deck enjoying the
cool breeze, Captain Davis told them it was so hot upon
the coast, and especially in the rivers, that if the white
crew did all the work, several of them would likely die ;
and so it was the custom for all vessels that sailed along
the African coast to take on a crew of native men to do
the heaviest work. "These men," said he, "get a regu
larly prescribed ration of rice and beef, and a shilling a
day as wages, besides some extra allowances to the
smartest of them." He told them they were called Kru-
boys, had a language of their own, but all could talk a
kind of pigeon-English which was universal on the coast.
He also told them that in Africa native workmen and
servants are always called "boys," no matter what their
age or size might be.
Beyond the lighthouse were large banks and rocky
reefs that compelled the Nubia to make a long detour in
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SIERRA LEONE AND LIBERIA
order to get around them. The next morning they were
off the Liberian coast and at sundown passed Monrovia
without calling. From the upper bridge, with the aid of
glasses, the town could be distinctly seen ; indeed it was
near enough to be seen quite well with the naked eye.
The town is small, the wooden houses scattered about
apparently at random, and the large number of palms
give it a pretty and picturesque appearance.
After dinner, as the party sat upon the deck in the
quiet moonlight, the conversation turned upon Liberia,
its history and present condition. The Judge told his
young companions about the American Colonization
Society and its effort to form an independent African Re
public out of the negroes sent from America ; while the
Captain told of its utter failure.
"Your government made a great mistake," said he,
addressing the Judge, "in sending out those negroes and
then leaving them to care for themselves ; colonial history
everywhere shows that young communities in foreign
lands need the fostering care of strong home governments.
They need it just as much as an infant needs the care of
a parent. Liberia was colonized with a better class of
people than Sierra Leone, but it amounts to nothing ;
there is no freight, mail, or passengers, to be landed there,
and so far as we are concerned, it might as well be a
desert." The Judge asked how all this came about, and he
replied: "When the American negro came here, he felt
himself quite above work and was content to be nothing
less than a government official, a college professor, or a
preacher; the native races would have nothing to do with
them, and so they were just a pack of gentlemen together.
No true success could come to such a people and they
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SIERRA LEONE AND LIBERIA
have been a hindrance to the native tribes rather than a
help to them."
The Judge desired to know what was being done in
the way of education, and in reply he learned there were
a few small primary schools, some of which were called
colleges, although the students might only be learning to
read and spell; besides these there were a few small
schools supported by various missionary societies.
"Does the country produce nothing for export?"
inquired Frank.
"Almost nothing," was the reply; "a little coffee
and cam-wood is about all."
"What is cam-wood? " asked Johnny.
" It is a tree that yields a valuable red dye," answered
the Captain; the roots and stumps are the parts most
used." The Doctor now asked that he might read a few
words about Liberia written by Professor Chase of Atlanta,
Ga. Professor Chase made a personal inspection of the
missions in Liberia, and he writes as follows : " In this
connection allow me to make a remark about sending
freedmen in large numbers to Africa. When they reach
that shore there is no work for them to do ; no one needs
laborers. Although they may find plenty of land they can
not raise anything to sell ; and after spending the little
money they carry with them and wearing out the clothes
on their backs, they must build mud huts, tie a handker
chief about their loins and feed on cassava. This, without
exaggeration, is the present material status of the mass of
the people, and must continue to be until Christianity and
philanthropy teach them how to dig from the soil the
accessories of a civilized life."

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SIERRA LEONE AND LIBERIA
"That is just it," chimed in the Purser, "let them
dig for a living, what do they want an education for,
anyway ? The better you educate a nigger the more able
he is to cheat and steal."
"My friend," replied the Judge, "have you ever
noticed that precisely the same is true of the white man?
Is it not true that the 'American Colony' in Canada,
of forgers and defaulters, are all educated men? Is not
education a power which may be turned to good or evil
accordingly as it is used? If education has been good for
you and me, why may it not be good for these people?
If it should be withheld from the African because he does
not use it rightly, why should it not be withheld from us
because a multitude of our race have by its means been
able to injure others ? "
The Purser did not attempt to combat this argument,
but he asserted that : " Educate an African as much as
you please, he will remain an African still," and so the
conversation for the night closed. The following day
they steamed along the Liberian coast at a distance of
some three or four miles. The shores were low and cov
ered with a rich forest growth. Every two or three miles
were villages of the aborigines, the round pointed roofs
forming a pleasing contrast to the heavy wall of living
green. About these villages were great numbers of
cocoanut trees, showing that the people were fond of its
fruit. Canoes were drawn up on the beach in front of the
houses; and many more were dancing on the waves,
while their owners were engaged in drawing the finny
denizens of the deep from their watery home. Occasion
ally great rocks were seen protruding from the water,
against 'which the waves dashed with great force, throw
ing the spray high in the air. The Captain told them
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SIERRA LEONE AND LIBERIA
this was a dangerous coast, and that several steamers had
come to grief on these rocks. . , ,
At four p. m. the steamer .turned toward ¦ shore and
anchored in front of a large native village called Sasstown,
having first fired the cannon oil the forecastle as a signal
to the people to come off. The Judge inquired if cargo
was to be put ashore here, and was told the stop; was only
made to, get Kru-boys.
Presently a large number of canoes were seen coming
off from land, and it was not long before they were
alongside and their owners clambering upon deck.
They were tall, handsome, finely developed men, with
dark brown ' skins, woolly heads, and frank open faces.
Most of them could speak the pigeon-English of the
coast, and by this means were able to converse with the
Captain. Some of the older of them had "books," or
orders from traders further down the coast, "to bring gangs
of men with them, and these orders stated that the
makers of them would pay the passage of such gangs to
any captain who would bring them.
The Kru-boys were respectful but noisy, and had a
great deal to say to one another and to those who had
come on board at Sierra Leone, The canoes were not
more than two feet wide and sometimes not so much as
that, and they were turned up a little at each end. There
were no benches or seats in them, but the Kru^men sat
flat upon the bottom with their- legs stretched out in front
of them. Of course a good deal of water came inf mostly
over the top, and the Ogowe Band were astonished to see
the men bail it out with one foot, at, the same time using
the paddle with their hands. ; -
" His foot is so flat it is asgood as a scoop," observed
Willie. 96

MISSION HOUSE, AXIM, GOLD COAST

SIERRA LEONE AND LIBERIA
" Yes," responded Johnny, " when they were climb
ing up the side I saw them take hold with their feet just
as if they had been hands."
These were the first real wild Africans our young
friends had ever seen, and they watched them with intense
interest. Among the brown houses on shore, with the
aid of a glass, the mothers and children could be seen
moving about, and the young travelers wished they
could go on shore and see this real African village
and learn something of the life of its people. At sun
down the Nubia resumed her voyage with about fifty of
the Sasstown boys on board as passengers.
That evening, after dinner, the Captain told them
that the Kru-men were the coolies of West Africa.
"Strange as it may seem," said he, "there is everywhere
on this coast, excepting just here, a scarcity of laborers ;
not because there are so few people, but because they
will not work; consequently traders and others who
employ labor must send here for men. These Kru-
boys we took on board this afternoon go to different ports
of the coast to work on a one year's engagement. Each
gang is in charge of a headman who is responsible to the
employer for the conduct of the men, and to the people
in his native village for the safety of those under his
care. A master seldom gives an order to one of his boys,
but to the headman, and he sees that the work is done.
So, too, when punishment is needed, the master pro
nounces sentence and the headman carries it into execution.
Formerly it was not so, and in those days it was no unusual
thing for traders to tie their men up and whip them to
death ; or to trice them up by their thumbs and so let
them hang for hours in great agony. These practices are
now rare, and as a rule the Kru-boys are treated with kind-
vi 97

SIERRA LEONE AND LIBERIA
ness and consideration. They receive as wages from one
to two pounds sterling per month, and a regular daily
ration of rice and meat, while on Saturday they get in
addition a head of tobacco and a bottle of rum. Besides
this they receive a new piece of cloth on the first Sunday
in every month, which keeps them supplied with clothes,
so all their earnings can be saved and taken home. Their
employers pay the passage both ways, and altogether the
Kru-boys have a very comfortable time of it."
"What do they do with their wages?" inquired
Robbie. "They use them mostly to buy wives with," said the
Captain. "The old men are the rulers of the country,
and in point of fact they own not only the property but
the women and younger men as well. They compel the
boys and younger men to 'go to sea,' as they express.it,
and when they return their wages are taken from them.
If the boy is still yoUng, he is given a little of the tobacco
and rum and allowed to enjoy himself for a few days and
is then shipped at the first opportunity under the care of
some headman who is a friend or member of the family.
When the boy has grown to man's estate, a wife is purchased
for him and he is allowed to retain an increasingly large
proportion of his wages, until by and by he himself
becomes one of the governing class. I once asked a young
man why it was the young men put up with such con
duct on the part of the old men, and he answered that
they hoped to do the same way when they got old."
Hattie wished to know what kind of food these peo
ple had to eat, and the Doctor told her it was usually rice.
"Fish are not very abundant along here," said he, "and
while there is some game in the bush, it is hard to get ; so
they have but little in the way of flesh, and are obliged to
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SIERRA LEONE AND LIBERIA
use palm-oil instead. When the rice is boiled, the rich
yellow oil is poured over it and it makes a wholesome, and
to them, palatable dish."
Frank asked how the rice was cultivated and the
Doctor replied that when a piece of ground was selected
the jungle was cut at the beginning of the dry-season and
allowed to lie until the commencement of the rains. It
is then burned and the rice is planted in little bunches
among the stumps, and grows very readily. "It is the
close of the rainy-season now," said he, " and the rice will
be ready to harvest in a few- days." The conversation
continued until a late hour, for it was so pleasant upon
deck that our friends were very reluctant to go to bed.
The steamer proceeded " dead slow" all night, and the
next morning they came to anchor at Grand Cess, which
they found to be a large Kru village much like Sasstown.
Some more Kru-boys were taken on here, and then the
Nubia went on to Cape Palmas which place she reached
in the afternoon.
Cape Palmas marks the southern boundary of Liberia
and presents an inviting appearance as seen from the deck
of a ship. A lighthouse stands on the extremity of the
low rocky promontory and back of it are the houses of the
Americo-Liberians. These are well built, mostly of stone,
and give the place the appearance of a considerable degree
of civilization and prosperity. In the beautiful bay to
the north of the cape, is a large steamer high up on the
sand. She was anchored too near in and with the turn of
the tide she struck a rock which knocked a hole through
her and she was run on the beach to prevent her from
sinking. A wall of sand was soon thrown around her by
the waves, and now she cannot be moved from her posi
tion. 99

SIERRA LEONE AND LIBERIA
Although Cape Palmas appeared to be a place of con
siderable importance, yet no cargo was put oft here, and
but few passengers were taken on. The Judge thought
he 'would like to gb ashore, but the Captain said the surf
was too heavy, and besides there was scarcely time.

ELMINA, GOLD COAST

Chapter VII.

IVORY COAST AND GOLD COAST.

¥HE Nubia ran " dead slow" all night and the
next morning made land near the Kavali
river at a place called Taboo. She did not
anchor but hove to under steam and fired a
gun as a signal to the people on shore ; it
was not long before a fleet of canoes was seen, coming in
answer to the summons.
Less than two years before this, the steamer Senegal
was passing this part of the coast in the night, when by
some mischance she ran ashore and was plundered by the
natives. At first they contented themselves with robbing
the ship ; but when rum was found in the cabin, they all
got drunk and were abusive to the passengers. These
unfortunates were stripped of their valuables, and a finger
was cut off the hand of one lady in order to obtain a
ring which did not slip off easily. There is no telling
what might not have happened to the unlucky passengers
had not a passing steamer presently picked them up.
The Senegal was homeward-bound and full of palm-oil
and other African produce. The Kru-boys of course

IVORY COAST AND GOLD COAST
knew perfectly well how to work cargo and as soon as
they sobered a little they set to work to rig up a spar and
get out the oil. As each cask was hoisted over the side
it was towed ashore, rolled across the narrow sandy beach,
then towed across the lagoon and taken to the Kru-towns
on the main-land.
Here on this lonely coast, an old Frenchman has a
trading-post, and when the excitement about the wreck
had quieted down the oil was brought and sold to him,
and he made most of the profit out of the transaction
after all. His trading-house, on a little bluff that jutted
out into the sea, could be plainly seen from the ship.
The loss of the Senegal brought on a conversation
about this part of the coast. The Captain told them that
one of the most remarkable features of the geography of
this part of the country is a long narrow lagoon extend
ing from Cape Palmas to Cape Three Points, and separated
from the ocean by a mere bed of sand seldom more than
half a mile wide. This lagoon forms a sort of reservoir
or back-water for the many streams that come down from
the Kong mountains, and affords an excellent means for
inland navigation without the risk and danger of passing
through the surf to the open ocean. Some of the rivers
that empty into this lagoon are navigable for canoes to
the very foot of the mountains, and the country is rich in
all natural products, but so unhealthy that white people
can hardly live there.
This part of Africa, as far as Cape Appolonia, is
called the Ivory Coast, but at the present time very little
ivory is shipped, the trade being almost entirely in palin-
oil and kernels. Some more of the Kru-boys were taken
on board at Taboo, and the Nubia steamed away to the
eastward.

IVORY COAST AND GOLD COAST
All day long they were in sight of the shore which,
•though low and flat, was covered with a dense vegetation
forming a dark line of living green that was wondrously
beautiful as the brilliant sunlight of the tropic skies
streamed down upon it. Every mile or two little brown
villages lay embosomed among the rich cocoa-nut groves
that in many places lined the beach.
The decks of the Nubia now presented an animated
appearance as there were more than two hundred black
passengers who had to eat, sleep and lodge there. All of
these men had English names by which they were known
among the white men, as their own native names were
in many cases unpronounceable. The muster-roll showed
the most common of the names to be Brass Pan, Jolly
Nose, Sea Breeze, Tar Bucket, Snow Ball, Flying Jib,
Salt Junk, Cod-Fish, Wool Pate, Bottle of Beer and other
curious titles. Of these fine names they were very proud,
quite as much so as white men are with Honorable, or
Doctor of Divinity ; and yet it was somewhat startling to
inquire of some tall, handsome fellow what his name was,
and have him answer with a proud smile of satisfaction,
" My name, he be Pea Soup, sir."
The Ogowe Band were greatly interested in the way
these people were fed. Rice was placed in large stationary
kettles and cooked by steam supplied from the boilers.
When done, every grain stood out distinct by itself and
the whole mass looked wondrously white and attractive.
Each head-man received an amount of this rice propor
tioned to the number of his men, and also a small piece
of salt beef or pork. Each group then sat upon the deck,
encircling its pan of rice, and watched in silence while
the leader cut up the meat and handed each his little
share. This was, to them, an important matter, and they
103

IVORY COAST AND GOLD COAST
looked on with a seriousness that -indicated their, appre
ciation of the gravity of the occasion. Each -received his
portion of meat with an evident sigh that it was not
larger and prepared to make .the most of- the little he had.
If it was a lean piece he carefully bit off -a small portion,
or if it was a piece of fat he sucked off a little of its. rich
ness, just so as to get the taste in his mouth ; eyeryright
hand was .now thrust into the central dish and a/large
handful of the, steaming, white rice taken, and firmly
pressed into a solid ball. The head was then thrown far
back, the mouth opened, to its greatest extent, the great
ball of rice dropped in, the jaws closed-^-the patient -was
then ready to repeat the operation. - .
This is- the way a native African dines, and as Lulu
observed, "it may be called the natural method."
"Yes," added the Judge, who overheard the remark,
"and this is the natural man. How do you like him?"
"I think I should, prefer the artificial variety,"
responded Laura, and it was quite evident the rest of the
Band agreed with her.
In the afternoon the steamer called at Little Bereby,
and at Grand Bereby, and at each. place, took on a few
more boys. There were now more than three hundred
deck passengers and the ship appeared to be fairly alive
with people.
Just before sundown they called at Jellah Coffee" for a
few fresh provisions. This is the only port on the coast
where chickens, ducks and other fowls can be obtained;
the people of Jellah Coffee make it their specialty, and from
all appearance they do a thriving trade. This poultry is
obtained from the towns on the various rivers that empty
into the lagoon already referred to, and is sold to the
steamers at reasonable prices for cash. In addition to the
104

CEMETERY AT ELMINA, GOLD COAST

IVORY COAST AND GOLD COAST
poultry trade, the people gather up and ship by home
ward-bound steamers many kinds of wild animals to be
sold to menageries and zoological gardens. All wild ani
mals have a market value, and may be consigned to com
mission houses the same as palm-oil and ivory.
One more day's steaming brought them to Grand
Bassam, a rather desolate looking place with a glaring,
white sandy beach, belonging to the French. Here there
is an opening through the sandy beach into the lagoon ; by
means of a small steamer, vessels are towed in and out,
and may thus load their cargoes in quiet waters. The
French possessions here extend to the Assinee River, but
they are neither large nor important. The unhealthi-
ness of the country not only prevents colonization, but
also retards commercial enterprises, and this century will
probably witness little change on the Ivory Coast.'
The next port was Axim on the Gold Coast, where
there are several gold mines just being opened up by
English companies. Very little could be learned by our
friends on the Nubia about these mines ; after consider
able inquiry they came to the conclusion that there was
an abundance of gold, but owing to its inaccessibility,
and the unhealthfulness of the climate, much earnest
effort would be needed and some sacrifice of life to make
its mining profitable ; and that the present companies paid
more attention to selling stocks and drawing salaries than
they did to digging out the gold and reducing the ores.
The Gold Coast extends from Cape Appolonia to the
River Volta and presents as much richness and variety of
scenery as can, perhaps, be found anywhere in the world.
Hills of every conceivable form and' outline rise from the
water, and verdant fields in graceful undulations stretch
away toward the interior ; while forests of palms and
i°5

IVORY COAST AND GOLD COAST
other tropical trees lend variety to a landscape which is a
constant delight and of which the eye never tires. It is
indeed a beautiful land, and, if adapted to the constitution
of the white race, could be made almost a paradise.
The general aspect of the towns and villages on this
part of the coast is scarcely less striking and varied. We
find no more circular huts such as we saw on the Kru
coast, but comparatively large quadrangular houses with
clay walls, occasionally two stories in height. The
appearance of these towns is rendered still more imposing
by the presence of large European forts in their imme
diate vicinity. These forts were built more than three
hundred years ago, by the Portuguese, Dutch, Danish, Prus
sian and English governments, and number altogether
not less than twenty-five. These forts were erected to
protect the trade in gold-dust and slaves, the latter of
which was particularly profitable. Only a few of these
forts are now kept in repair and they have nearly all
passed into the hands of the English who have established
a sort of protectorate over the country.
These remarks apply only to the coast, for nowhere
have towns or stations been formed in their interior, and
such a thing as a carriage road or a railway does not exist
Missionary operations are carried on almost solely by
English and German societies, and with fair average suc
cess. If the climate were such that missionaries and
their families could live in the country for a lifetime, and
their efforts were not counteracted by the lives of irrelig
ious white men, in a century or two the whole continent
might be converted to Christ. This, however, is sup
posing what cannot be, and so the influence of the Gos
pel, though it is sure to prevail in the end, will conquer
only by slow, and oftentimes by painful degrees.
106

IVORY COAST AND GOLD COAST
There was no opportunity for our friends to go ashore
at Axim, but they were so fortunate as to secure two pho
tographs by a native artist, which appear in this volume.
The people of the Gold Coast are quite different from
the natives of the Grain and Ivory Coasts. They have
not the fine muscular development, the manly, independ
ent gait, or the frank, open countenance of the Kru-men ;
but they have more of a mechanical turn, and possess
more of the comforts of life. Thus, while the Kru-men go
in gangs to various parts of the coast to act as porters and
day laborers, the men of the Gold Coast go in smaller
numbers to work as carpenters, blacksmiths, stokers, tai
lors and jack-washers.
Slavery exists not only here, but everywhere upon
the West coast ; and as society is now constituted, it is a
necessity. Here, as well as in Christian lands, there is a
criminal population : the Christian nations build prisons
and shut the vicious up in them ; the Pagan African sells
him for a slave, where he can have a certain amount of free
dom, but must do some work and submit to the will of an
other. Of course, while African slavery is not so severe as
American slavery, yet it is an evil and gives rise to many
abuses. One of these is the system of pawning, now very
general wherever that trade is carried on. It is not the
genius of .the African to buy and sell on his own account,
so as to be the absolute owner of the goods he deals in ; but
rather to get goods on trust from some white man, trust
them out to his friends, and they in turn to their friends,
until at last the producer is reached ; even he gets the
goods first, and goes to gather the oil and rubber after
wards. Now, when a white man makes a loan he wants col
lateral ; just so the black man. The white man gives
107

IVORY COAST AND GOLD COAST
bonds, mortgages, stocks, or the name of his friend ; the
black fellow gives; a wife, a ..child, or - a poor; relation.
Like collateralin civilized lands, these may not be sold
Until the debt becomes due arid there is small chance of
repayment ; in the meantime the human security is called
a "pawn," which is virtually the same as slave. Some
times a man even pawns himself in order that he may
obtain an advance of goods. . Slaves, if well-behaved, are
permitted to marry and have their' own homes, and even
to own other slaves themselves ; and so long as they are
worked moderately and treated kindly, they have little
cause for dissatisfaction with their lot.
The next morning the Nubia anchored off Elmina,
a town founded by the Portuguese in 147 1, twenty-one
years before America was discovered,, and called Oro de la
Mina, or the Gold M ine ( because the natives; brought so
inuch gold for sale. It afterwards passed into the hands
of the Dutch, and quite; recently has been transferred to
England. The town was once .well built, but- has now
fallen into decay and presents many . picturesque * ruins
which are well worthy of a visit. Our frierids would
gladly have taken a "little run ashore, but .there was
scarcely time to do' so, and. besides it was Sunday and they
did not feel it was right to go sight-seeing on the Sabbath.
Eight rniles farther on was Gape Coast Castle where
passengers as well as mails were to be. put ashore, and also
a few parcels for the governor. The surf here, as else
where ori the African coast, is very heavy and is. justly
dreaded by strangers, especially those who do . riot enjoy
a drenching.' ^Mr, Stanley,' in his "Coomassie and Mag-
dala," says, "It was no light matter to have forgotten the
oil for the engines, neither was it a light matter to send a
boat back through that awful surf, which the English
108

CAPE COAST CASTLE, GOLD COAST

IVORY COAST AND GOLD COAST
have left to be a curse and an annoyance to all who seek
this part of the Gold Coast. In coming through the fran
tic surf we had both been drenched to the skin by a vic
ious wave, which had simply wetted us for spite, though
it might have drowned us had we submitted the boat to
its power." The same writer, in speaking of the town of Cape
Coast, says, "I have been wandering through Cape Coast
Castle. Now, behold the town of Cape Coast, like a
smouldering volcano, blazing and burning and smoking
in the hollows between the seven hills, domed by a sky
of brass seven times heated by fire." Upon the unpro
tected parts of the Nubia's deck the sun shone with blis
tering force, but under the double canvas, fanned by the
gentle breeze it was most delightful to sit in the comfor
table willow chairs and read or sleep as one might feel
inclined. Our friends were quite willing to remain upon
their floating home, and they concluded that very likely
Cape Coast looked better at a distance than it might upon
a nearer acquaintance.
Cape Coast is the port of entry for the great negro
kingdom of Ashantee which lies some distance in the
interior beyond the Prah river. After lunch the Captain
joined the Ogowe Band upon the deck and related some
reminiscences of the Ashantee war in 1873-4. " During
the time the war was in progress," said the Captain, "we
were so full of passengers we scarcely knew where to put
them, and indeed several of our ships were chartered to
bring nothing but men and stores for the army. Those
were busy days and profitable ones, too, for the steamers ;
but we had more passengers coming out than going
home, for many a fine young lad fell a victim to the fever
and dysentery and never saw home and friends again.
109

IVORY COAST AND GOLD COAST
Although our side was victorious, the war was fruitful of
no good results. The Ashantees ought to be our allies
and not our enemies ; with them we might penetrate to the
heart of the Soudan, and by building a railroad we might
bring down an immense quantity of produce,' while at
present we get almost nothing. A little gold dust is
brought from Ashantee, and some palm-oil from the
coast districts, but the amount is small."
"Coomassie, the capital of Ashantee," added the
Doctor, " is one hundred and sixty miles from the coast,
and is built upon the side of a large rocky hill of iron
stone; and, with its suburbs, contains one hundred
thousand inhabitants. More than half of this number
reside in plantations within two or three miles of the
town, as the higher classes could not support their numer
ous followers (or the lowest their large families), in the
city, and therefore employ them on the farms, where they
can raise food both for themselves and for their masters.
" Coomassie is more than four miles in circumference,
with streets crossing at right angles. The King's com
pound is situated on a long and wide street running
through the middle of the town, and is enclosed by a
high wall which runs back to a marsh. There is a large
market-place and back of this is a small grove called Sam-
monpone, or the Spirit House, because the bodies of all
the human victims are thrown into it. The bloody
tracks, daily renewed, show the various directions from
which they have been dragged, and the number of vul
tures on the trees indicate the extent of the sacrifice.
The stench is almost insupportable, and the place is
nightly visited by panthers and other animals. Over one
thousand slaves are butchered annually ' for custom,' as
the Ashantees say, while upon the death of some great

IVORY COAST AND GOLD COAST
personage as many as two or three hundred are killed at
one time. One of the common sayings of the king is,
' By the slaughter of one hundred shall I be able to pro
duce a thousand.'
" The markets in Coomassie are held daily from eight
A. M. to sunset. Among the articles offered for sale are
the flesh of the wild-hog, deer and monkey ; also yams,
plantains, rice, peppers, bananas ; and salt, dried fish, and
smoked snails."
The Judge thanked the Captain and the Doctor for
their information, and remarked that he was quite satisfied
to do his marketing in New York.
Frank inquired if gold was found as far up the
country as Coomassie, and the Captain replied that it was.
"There are valuable mines in the hills near the city,"
said he, "and even the sands of the streets are full of small
particles of gold."
"Are the Ashantees brave soldiers?" asked Grant.
" Yes," said the Doctor, " give the Ashantees the same
weapon, such as the breech-loading Sniders which the
English troops have, and they will find them a foe worthy
of their best efforts."
Toward the middle of the afternoon the Nubia
steamed away from Cape Coast and at sundown anchored
at Accra. One of the unpleasant experiences in traveling by
steamer is that there is no Sunday ; work goes on just
the same as other days. It is true some captains try to
have less washing and scrubbing done, and give their
men a little time to themselves; but when working
the ports there is no distinction made between the Sab
bath and the other days of the week. When crossing the
ocean of course the ship must keep right on, but when
in

IVORY COAST AND GOLD COAST
coasting or lying in port, the reason usually given is the
true one, viz : that the ship costs so much per day and
they must work on Sunday to save that day's expense.
It may be a question worth considering, whether
God's blessing may not be worth as much in dollars and
cents as the sum total of the work done on Sunday. In
a certain town in New Jersey there were three principal
mercantile establishments ; one of these closed up tight on
Sunday and would not sell five cents' worth of tobacco to
accommodate the best customer the concern had. The
other two would open the back door "just for accommo
dation," and this sometimes was pretty often. Nothing
happened for some years, but in the end the first concern
made money and has it yet; of the other two, one broke
and paid twenty-five cents to the dollar and never was
able to start again ; the second dwindled down to nothing
and went out of existence. •
It may, at first sight, seem strange that such results
should follow from such apparently slight causes ; but let
us. suppose there is an ever present personal Spirit, who
sees all things and takes -a keen interest in human action.
Suppose, too, this personal Spirit to be an active, moving
agent in all second causes, working in them and through
them with resistless' power,- yet slowly and silently, to
accomplish His purposes. Suppose He has given certain
rules to guide human conduct and is very jealous of the
way in which His commands are received and treated by
men. Suppose one of these-comriiands is to "Remember
the Sabbath day to keep it holy " ;- will it pay to obey such
a command? Will it.be safe to disobey it?
It was a lovely Sabbath1 afternoon, and Accra pre
sented an inviting appearance as the setting sun threw its
rays aslant the white cliffs and whitewashed walls of the

ACCRA, GOLD COAST

IVORY COAST AND GOLD COAST
town. The land about Accra is singularly devoid of veg
etation ; from the face of the cliff upon which the town
is built, the ground slopes back to a lagoon. This strip
of plain country is covered with bunches of cactus, thorns
and grass. There is a scarcity of good drinking water in
Accra, and large cisterns are built to catch the water dur
ing the rainy-season and preserve it for use during the
rest of the year. The town is ill-planned and many of
the buildings are going to decay. The trade is in palm-
oil, gold-dust and gum-copal, with a few monkey skins
and other products of the forest.
Away to the right in a cocoa-nut grove is the Basle
Mission, the best known of any mission on the African
coast. This Mission has undertaken to civilize as well
as Christianize the African. Pupils in their schools are
taught carpentering, blacksmithing, brick-laying, and
other handicrafts, as well as reading, writing and arith
metic; and trade is carried on with the natives as well.
There is a store or shop where workmen are paid in
goods; and cloth, tobacco, soap and other necessaries
are exchanged for palm-oil, monkey skins, etc. Much
good is doubtless done in this way, but very naturally the
secular department absorbs most of the time and attention.
Those who place a high value upon civilization as distinct
from Christianity, are loud in the praises of these indus
trial schools ; but those who value more highly spiritual
results, have not been found so favorably disposed toward
them. These Swiss and German brethren have some cus
toms that may appear to us a little singular. The men
are obliged to come out unmarried ; when, after a resi
dence of a year or two permission to marry is obtained,
the selection is made by the Society at home from a list
vii 113

IVORY COAST AND GOLD COAST
of "waiting, willing ones," and the fair candidate is
shipped by the first steamer, consigned to the head of the
Mission. Immediately on arrival she must marry the
man for whom she was intended, whether she likes him
or not, and this without any previous acquaintance.
Occasionally these hasty unions turn out to be happy
ones, and in any case they must make the best of it, just
as people must do everywhere else in the world.
The Judge and his young friends desired very much
to attend the evening services at the Mission, but the surf
is so extremely dangerous that the Captain was not will
ing they should go ashore.
Early on Monday morning canoes and surf-boats
came off to the steamer bringing passengers for ports far
ther south ; these were mostly carpenters, masons and jack-
washers, many of whom had received their training at
the Basle Mission. A few of these were accompanied by
their wives, but mostly they left these behind and formed
temporary alliances with others in the places where they
went to work. Here then was one of the fruits of indus
trial schools; it created a surplus of mechanical labor,
which went abroad to seek employment and in doing so
destroyed home life.
Captain Davis did not wait very long, but as soon as
he could get his passengers on board he steamed away for
Whydah, the port of the kingdom of Dahomy, which
place was reached soon after sundown. Dahomy is the
rival of Ashantee among the negro kingdoms, and is if
possible more brutal and cruel than the latter nation. Its
army is composed largely of women, who are even more
fierce and bloodthirsty than the men. It is not an invit
ing country and our young travelers were not sorry to
hear the Nubia was to remain but an hour or so.

114

IVORY COAST AND GOLD COAST
Next morning at breakfast-time the steamer came to
anchor off the entrance to Lagos, a large town built on a
low marshy island in a lagoon that is connected by back
creeks with the Niger delta. It is an English colony and
has a large and flourishing trade. The houses can
scarcely be seen from the anchorage which is a long way
out, for the bar is the most dangerous one on the West
coast and is justly dreaded. A small steamer, built
expressly for the purpose, comes out at a certain stage of
the tide and takes off passengers and freight.
Lagos was once the head-quarters of the slave trade
for the Niger region ; but this nefarious traffic has now
ceased and palm-oil and kernels have taken its place.
Inland from Lagos is the kingdom of Yoruba, of
which the capital is Abeokuta, a city surrounded by a
wall and possessing a considerable degree of civilization.
This city is the scene of labor of Bishop Crowther, a very
uncommon man, both on account of his eminent piety,
and his high intellectual qualifications. He is a native of
this country and was sold as a slave at Badagry, in 1822.
The vessel on which he was embarked was captured by
an English man-of-war and taken to Sierra Leone. Here
young Crowther received a good education, was converted,
and became a minister of the Gospel. After a time he
returned to his native country and has ever since been
most active in preaching and in organizing churches
among his fellow-countrymen.
After mails and passengers had been put on board the
small steamer that came out from Lagos, the Nubia
resumed her voyage, and on Wednesday morning crossed
the bar at the mouth of the Bonny river, and anchored
abreast of the English trading stations.

"5

Chapter VIII.

BONNY AND FERNANDO PO.

¥ HE great Niger river forms a large delta and
empties through six smaller rivers into the
Gulf of Guinea. These are called the Opbbo,
Akassa, Brass, Benin, Bonny and New Cal
abar ; of these the Bonny is perhaps the best
known arid has the best bar at its riiouth. The entrance
to the Bonny river is simply a break in the sandy key
which acts as a breakwater agairist the heavy surf; inside,
a vast swamp stretches away on " every side. The low
islands, covered with a dense growth of mangroves and
other water loving trees, are surrounded by wide reaches
of water which expose mud-banks at low tide, but with
a deep, crooked channel winding among them.
Until recently it was not thought possible for white
men to live on shore, and trade was carried on upon what
were called " hulks." Ships that had grown too old to be
safe in rough weather, were purchased at a low price and
sailed out in the summer season ; on arrival they were
stripped of sails and spars, covered with a roof and used
as a permanent trading-station. The necessity for more
116

CANOE ON THE BONNY RIVER, NIGER DELTA

BONNY AND FERNANDO PO
room at length compelled the largest firms to try what
might be done ashore. Piles were driven in the mud so
as to enclose a space, and ship-loads of sand and gravel
were brought to cover the mud and fill in this enclosed
space, and on this " made-ground " buildings were erected.
Three establishments are now on shore, and two still
occupy hulks.
The shore stations are surrounded by a sea of black
mud, except on the side next the river, where the mud is
of course covered with water. Strange as it may seem,
this apparently pestilential spot is less unhealthful than
Sierra Leone which seems to be so delightfully situated.
There is a wide-spread opinion prevalent upon the African
coast, that standing water absorbs the malaria, and this
opinion appears to be borne out by facts. It is thought to
be much better to sleep on ship-board than to sleep on
shore ; yet in places like Bonny, where some sleep on
hulks and some on shore, no perceptible difference is seen
in the health of the two classes.
The whole subject relating to malaria is a great puz
zle, and the probabilities are that no one knows what it
is, or what is the cause of it. True, wiseacres are not
infrequently met, who can tell you all about it and lay
down iron-clad rules for its operation in any given set of
circumstances; but facts are usually against them, and
besides that, they do not agree among themselves.
Until this time no cargo had been taken from the
Nubia ; mails and passengers had been landed, together
with a number of parcels, but now the real business of
the voyage was to begin, and our young travelers watched
with eager interest the preparations for hoisting the cargo
out of the hold and putting it over the side. A heavy
spar was rigged to each mast in such a way that the upper
117

BONNY AND FERNANDO PO
end was directly over the hatchway. A small steam-
engine called a "winch," turned an iron drum over which
a heavy chain was tightly wound ; this chain ran along the
under side of the spar, and then over a wheel at its end, ,
and so hung down through the hatchway, into the hold.
The ship's Kru-boys were divided into two gangs,
one of which worked the forward hatch, and the other
the after hatch. These nimble fellows clambered over the
piles of bales and boxes in the dark hold, selecting such
as were marked for Bonny, and fastened them to the chain
which drew them forth and deposited them on deck.
The rattle of the steam-winches and chains, the shouts of
the workmen, who always do best when making a noise,
and the bustle and excitement of working cargo, made an
animated scene that was highly entertaining to our friends.
As soon as the Nubia came to anchor, boats put off
from the trading-posts, to bring the agents on board to
get their mails and hear the news. These gentlemen
were dressed in white linen and their faces were bleached
by the fever as white as their clothes ; they were polite
and gentlemanly, and were men of ability and experience.
After a private chat with the Captain they returned to
their places of business, and soon their white assistants
came off with surf-boats and large lighters to get the cargo.
These lighters can carry as much as six or eight
tons, and are not propelled by oars reaching out from
either side, but two or three oars extend over the stern,
and are worked back and forth in a fashion known as
sculling. Our friends were surprised to see such great
boats forced through the water by what appeared to be
wholly inadequate means. When these boats came along
side, the cargo was hoisted over the side and let down in
them, and when they were full they were towed ashore.
118

BONNY AND FERNANDO PO
The tide is strong in all the African rivers and the
time consumed in sculling a loaded boat ashore is so
great that not more than two loads a day is taken by each
boat, and oftentimes when there is some detention, not
more than one. To save time the steamers now carry a
small steam launch, which is put over the side at every
port and is used to tow these heavy laden boats ashore ; by
this means four loads a day may be taken by each boat.
But other visitors came besides the traders. Quite a
fleet of canoes was presently gathered around the good
ship. Their owners brought plantains, bananas, yams,
pine-apples and dried fish for sale to the native passengers ;
and mats, baskets and other curiosities to sell to the white
ones. These baskets and mats were wholly of native
manufacture and were quite interesting arid curious. The
Judge thought it well to buy a few table mats, as they
could be packed in their trunks without taking too much
room, and so each of the Band took a dozen. The pine
apples and bananas were not of a good quality, and as
they are not thought to be altogether wholesome, espec
ially for new-comers, it was decided to let them entirely
alone. The Doctor told them that, strange as it might
seem, peppers were more wholesome in Africa than pine
apples. The men who brought the mats for sale spoke
English fairly well, and in answer to an inquiry from the
Judge they stated that they had been educated in the mis
sion school; indeed the Judge had already noticed that at
all the ports where they had called, English was the me
dium of communication between all the passengers and
the coast natives.
While bargaining for the mats a great drumming
was heard, and on looking out over the water a large
119

BONNY AND FERNANDO PO
canoe full of men was seen approachirig, with flags at
either end, and a great umbrella of niany bright colors,
in the middle.
" O, what a gorgeous umbrella ! " exclaimed Mamie.
" It rerriinds me of Joseph's coat," responded Robbie.
The canoe bore down on the steamer with much
beating of tom-toms and wild singing of the crew, until
it came -alongside' the ladder, 'when" the owner came on
deck and introduced himself as one of the head men
among the people. He was not the "king," as the most
influential chief is called, but the" head of one of. the
leading families, and a trader. ;
He spoke good English, and; in answer to inquiries
from the Judge he said he had twenty-seven wives, over
fifty children, and he did not know -how many slaves, but
more than two hundred. "He said most of these slaves
lived on little plantations in charge of his wives, and that'
they raised the food needed for the entire family.; For
himself, he spent most of his time bri'trading expeditions.
He took powder, guns, rUm, gin, tobacco, and other
goods, in a large canoe and then his slaves paddled two or
three days' journey up the river to the town of one of his
friends, and there he remained until enough oil was gath
ered to purchase his stock in trade ; when he returned,
sold the oil to the white men, rested1 awhile in his town,
and started away on another expedition.
In reply to the inquiry as to what -he did. when his
slaves would not obey him, he said he killed them when
they needed it.
"Why don't you become a Christian?" asked the
Judge. "Yes, I Christian now, this time," he replied, "no
more, I be trade-man too."

TRADING HULK, BONNY, NIGER DELTA

BONNY AND FERNANDO PO
The Judge expressed his surprise and the man con
tinued. " What's the matter, you white men you no be
Christian and trade-man all same time?"
Hereupon the Judge explained some of the require
ments of the Christian life, but this representative of one
of the "leading families of Bonny" remarked that,
"white man was not all the same like black man," and
thereupon took his departure.
A little while after lunch a very intelligent and gen
tlemanly man came on board and was introduced by
the Captain to Judge McGee as Archdeacon Crowther.
After an hour of pleasant conversation the Archdeacon
invited our friends to take a little run ashore and pay him
a visit, and the invitation was promptly accepted. The
Captain placed his gig at the disposal of the Judge and
sent them away in tow of the steam launch.
The cool sea-breeze was now blowing and it tempered
the heat so that the trip was a delightful one, although
they found it much warmer on shore than under the awn
ing on the ship. It was about half tide and much mud
near the shore was exposed, sending up a strong effluvium
as it lay exposed to the sun's rays. Upon arriving oppo
site the mission landing the launch went back to its work,
and the Kru-boys got out and carried each passenger
through the water and mud to the shore, as if they had
been so many babies.
It was rather startling to see so dignified a gentle
man as the Judge carried like a child, and it certainly
destroys all appearance of dignity ; but it is better than
wading through the water, and so is the usual fashion on
the coast. Some sit on a Kru-boy's shoulders with their
legs astride his neck, and hold on to his wool to balance
themselves ; but it is an unsteady position and new-comers

BONNY AND FERNANDO PO
are safer to be carried in arms, as our friends were on this
occasion. The mission premises are not more than a foot or
two above the water-level and the ground is soft and
springy. Mrs. Crowther, like her husband, a native
African, gave her guests a cordial welcome and made
many inquiries about their journey. She was a highly
cultivated and refined lady, and, with her husband, a good
example of what the African race may become. Pres
ently tea and sweet crackers were served and then the
Archdeacon took his guests out to see the fine new
church recently erected. - Mr. Crowther told the Judge
the house was filled every Sabbath, and that mission work
was making commendable progress, not only in Bonny,
but up the Niger river. Yet the light penetrates slowly,
for the depravity of the negro races is great, and the prin
ciples of Christianity are opposed to the degraded in
stincts of the African savage.
After inspecting the church Mr. Crowther led the
way along a narrow foot-path, that in some places was
little better than a quagmire, to a village of the Bonny
people; it was inexpressibly filthy and they did not
remain long. It was a matter of surprise to the Ogowe
Band that any one could live in such dirt and be a Chris
tian, or, as Laura expressed it, "I don't wonder these
people are heathen."
The Archdeacon told them the villages up-country
were much better than this one, and that the people they
saw to-day would be away on the farms in a week or two,
and others would come and take their places for awhile.
"This town is kept up," said he, "mainly because it is
near the trading stations."

BONNY AND FERNANDO PO
On their return, the Judge and his party bade the kind
Archdeacon and his wife adieu, and were carried out to
their boat and went up the river to have a look at the
trader's houses. They landed near the end of a large
covered wharf and walked up to the yard where men
were hooping palm-oil casks. Here they met a very
pleasant gentleman who told them he was the head of the
telegraph corps and he invited them into his house.
The Judge was quite surprised to learn that Bonny
was connected with Europe by a sub-marine cable. This
obliging official ordered coffee to be brought in, and then
explained that the cable extended from St. Paul de
Loanda to St. Thomas, thence to Bonny, Lagos, Cape
Coast Castle, Sierra Leone, Senegambia, Canary Islands,
Madeira, and so on to Lisbon and the rest of Europe.
Not very many messages were sent and the line did not
pay, but it was hoped it might by and by. Our friends
thought of cabling home, but the expense was so great
that the idea was given up.
The Ogowe Band went into the operating room and
were surprised to learn that messages were not sent by
sound, but by sight; as Hattie expressed it, "Real, true
flashes of lightning."
The Superintendent explained that the amount of
power needed to operate a sounding machine was more
than to transmit a flash, so the electric spark was made to
pass before a small mirror, and by observing the length
of the flashes, and the intervals between them, the oper
ator could read the dispatch. This seemed very wonder
ful, as indeed it really is. If men, possessed of such feeble
power as we know they are, can send messages for thou
sands of miles, what may not free spirits be able to do in
the boundless realms of space? Who can say they may
123

BONNY AND FERNANDO PO
not send messages to our dear ones in the " far-away home
of the soul?" So thought our young friends as they
watched the little sparks of electric fire flash from the
positive to the negative pole of the delicate telegraphic
instrument. It was now sundown and the Judge and his young
friends bade the kind director good-bye and returned to
the Nubia. The cargo that had been unloaded during
the day had consisted of guns, powder, cloth, crockery,
iron-pots, rice, salt beef, and rum, gin, and other intoxi
cants. These latter compounds had made up about one-
half in bulk of the whole. The Judge had read much
of the rum trade in Africa, but he was surprised to see so
great an amount of the vile stuff unloaded from so
respectable a steamer as the Nubia.
In the evening, as they sat upon the deck enjoying
the cool sea-breeze, he asked Captain Davis to tell him
something about the rum traffic. He was not long in
finding out this was an unpleasant topic. So much has
been said about the iniquity of the African rum trade that
the firms at home, who are men of great respectability in
the communities where they live, are irritated and an
noyed, and all those who are in any way connected with
this trade prefer to keep very quiet about it, especially in
the presence of those whose sensibilities are shocked by
the disclosures that might be made.
The Captain himself was a teetotaler, but he pre
ferred to talk on some other subject than the rum traffic,
although it was not difficult to see what he thought of it.
The Judge determined to keep his eyes open, see what he
could for himself, and make further inquiries of his
friends when he reached Gaboon.

124

BONNY AND FERNANDO PO
He was not required to wait long for an example of
what effect it had upon the white-man. Just across the
passage way from his room was a state-room occupied by
a trader who had lived for some years on the coast. This
gentleman, with some others, went to one of the hulks to
spend a social evening with friends. Late in the night
he fell overboard and for some unaccountable reason did
not sink, but floated away with the swift ebb tide. The
Kru-man on watch on the hulk half a mile below, saw a
dark object coming down the river, and went down the
ladder to have a nearer view of it as it passed. It came
so near that he was able to catch it with his hand, and by
exerting all his strength he drew it out of the water on
the grating. He gave the alarm and when the trader
who lived on this hulk was aroused from his sleep, he
ordered out his gig and the unconscious visitor was rolled
into it and taken to the Nubia ; even when carried into
his room and bundled into his berth, he was so drunk he
did not know what had happened to him ! A more won
derful escape from a watery grave perhaps was never
known. Why men should drink so heavily upon the West
Coast of Africa, is hard to tell. At one of the ports a
trader was dying. In the evening, when work was fin
ished, all the other traders came to see him, and as there
was no hope of his recovery they decided to "give him a
good send off." They got him out of bed and bolstered
him up in the arm-chair at the head of the table and
made him "drink to the occasion" with them. They
kept on drinking until one by one they slid off their
chairs under the table in a drunken mess together, and
the poor dead one was left sitting upright, the only sober
one of the party. 125

BONNY AND FERNANDO PO
Stanley, in his "Congo," says: "The evils of brandy
and soda in India need only to be remembered to prove
how pernicious is the suicidal habit of indulgence in
drinking of alcoholic liquors in hot climates. The West
Coast of Africa is also too much indebted to the ruin
effected by intemperance." One would think there were
dangers enough in African life without inviting sure
destruction by indulgence in so pernicious a habit.
The agents at Bonny desired a portion of the cargo
put ashore at another post farther up the river called Boo-
gahmah, and the next day at noon the Nubia started on
her way. The channel was crooked and wound about
among mud banks, and islands covered with a thick
growth of mangroves. Sometimes the steamer went so
close to the trees that the sides almost touched the end of
the branches. It was a strange experience to be steaming
along through the forest and the Nubia seemed to have
forgotten her wild ocean home as she picked her way
through the thick waters, among the muddy islands of
this great African swamp.
The Ogowe Band were dedghted, for although the
scenery was desolate and depressing to older minds, yet to
these young people it was novel and full of interest.
They peered among the mangrove roots and into the for
est shades in hopes of seeing a few stray crocodiles ; occa
sionally the enormous vines hanging from the trees would
appear like giant pythons or boa-constrictors. Now and
then a canoe was passed hugging the bushes closely so as
not to be too near the great ship, and the half naked
negroes would look up in wonder at the great vessel that
had invaded their domains.
A mangrove swamp is a wild, wierd, desolate waste,
with pestilential odors of decaying matter, and abandoned
126

BONNY AND FERNANDO PO
by all save reptile life ; it is a very land of the shadow of
death ; without any order, and where the light is as dark
ness — a fit emblem of that land of everlasting night
where all the filth of the universe is to be drained to fes
ter and ferment throughout the eternal ages. Such a land
is the fit abode of the evil one, and our friends were not
surprised at the stories of the cruelty which these black
people practice on each other, told them by two of the
Bonny merchants who had come on board to go up to
Boogahmah with them.
Sometimes in turning a short corner the Nubia's
engines would be stopped in order to give her time to
swing around, and the lead was kept going all the while,
but they got along without any accident, thanks to Cap
tain Davis's skill as a navigator, and at sundown cast
anchor before the trading-posts of the village of Boogah
mah. The young men stationed here were glad to see
the steamer for it is not often one comes up so far, and
they came off at once to hear the news and have a chat
with the steamer people.
Boogahmah, like Bonny, is situated in a swamp, and
our friends had not been there long before the mosquitoes
discovered the arrival of the strangers, and came on board
to pay their respects. No one has yet been found who
appreciates the attention of this frolicsome little insect ;
he may sing his cheerful song never so sweetly, so
bewitchingly, his absence will yet be more appreciated
than his presence. Africa is no more afflicted with this
troublesome pest than many other countries, perhaps even
less so, but at Boogahmah at least they were abundant and
they made it lively for all hands throughout the night.
Friday was spent in landing cargo and on Saturday
morning, much to the relief of our young friends who
127

BONNY AND FERNANDO PO
saw few attractions at Boogahmah, the Nubia returned
to Bonny, and late in the afternoon turned her prow sea
ward. It seemed good to be once more on the broad
ocean, with the pure, cool breeze sweeping the deck,
bringing life and vigor to the languid frame, and feel that
the swamps and their malarious exhalations had been left
behind. Sabbath morning dawned calm and bright. The sun
rose in majestic splendor from behind the lofty range of
the Cameroons, lighting up the vapors about their sum
mits with a glory of crimson and gold. From the gor
geous coloring of the skies it might be thought that some
bright-winged embassy from the Spirit-land had come
down to earth with glad message of peace and good-will
to men. Looking heavenward along the shining path
way, one could fancy that "thinly the veil intervened
between the fair city" and this lower world.
On the starboard bow was the peak of Fernando Po,
lifting its forest-clad head more than ten, thousand feet
above the sea.
Notwithstanding the throbbing of the engines a
solemn hush had settled down over, the sea as if the calm
and silence of the eternal world had touched the earth to
give a slight- foretaste of the Sabbath of Heaven. A long
time did" our young friends remain on .deck, lost in the
beauty of the scene, nor was the enchantment- broken by
any word or remark. . . •
At noon the Nubia came to anchor in Clarence Bay
on the northeast corner of the island of Fernando Po.
This bay is small, but the water is deep and the vessels can
lie, close in to shore. The town of Clarence is an insig
nificant place, little more than a clearing in the jungle, and
has a reputation of being more than usually unhealthy,
128

MY NAME HE BE PEA SOUP'

BONNY AND FERNANDO PO
especially for ladies. Everywhere the vegetation is the
richest and most luxuriant that can be imagined; the
cliffs that skirt the bay are covered with palms and vines
in the greatest profusion.
An hour after the steamer's arrival the Rev. Mr.
Luddington came off and after an introduction from Cap
tain Davis and a friendly chat, invited the Judge and his
party to come ashore and spend the afternoon with him.
The invitation was thankfully accepted and, as the Cap
tain loaned his gig, all the young folks were soon safely
landed on the beach. There was a short covered pier
with steps, which made the landing easy, and a road was
cut in the face of the cliff which led to the town situated
on the level land above. The Governor's house, Holt &
Co.'s factory, and the Spanish mission, are the most pre
tentious buildings ; the English Primitive Methodist Mis
sion-house is a pleasant home-like structure of wood and
galvanized iron.
Not far away was the church and our friends were
glad to hear that the second service was to be held at four
P. M. and they would be able to attend ; several weeks had
passed since they had worshiped in God's house and now
the opportunity had come in this far off island of the sea.
Mr. Luddington informed them he had changed the time
of the second service from evening to afternoon, so that
he might have the evening for rest, otherwise he was not
able to sleep that night.
Mrs. Luddington received her American guests with
true English hospitality, and the girls, for their part,
were glad enough to be in a real home once more. Mrs.
Luddington showed them around the house and explained
to them some of the mysteries of tropical housekeeping,
and her management of her girls.
ix 129

BONNY AND FERNANDO PO
In the cool, pleasant sitting-room her husband was
giving the Judge some account of the island, and his
troubles with the Spanish officials, and so the time passed
until the ringing of the bell announced the hour for serv
ice. About one hundred and fifty persons, "clothed and
iu their right minds," entered and reverently took their
seats. Mrs. Luddington presided at the organ ; the hymns
were the well known ones of Moody and Sankey, and
were sung with a heartiness too often lacking at home.
All the services were in English, which is preferred by
the people to Spanish. So similar were the services to
those in our own fair land, that the travelers forgot they
were far away from home and when the benediction had
been pronounced they almost expected to l©ok out and see
the streets and pavements of their native city.
The people of Clarence are like those of Sierra
Leone, a conglomeration from all parts of the coast,
and call themselves Englishmen, although the island
belongs to Spain ; but the natives are Boobies, said to be
the lowest and most ill-favored of all the human race.
Some even of these have felt the power of the gospel, and
are earnest, consistent members of this church. The
Judge and his young friends were introduced to several,
and it needed but a glance at their faces to see the Chris
tian joy shining in their countenances, showing plainly
they had been with Christ and had learned of Him. Mr.
Luddington informed his guests that the church had over
one hundred members, and that the mission work at all
the stations on the island was prosperous.
Fernando Po is celebrated for its yams which are the
best grown anywhere on the coast. For tea that evening
they had several that had been baked in the ashes, which
is much the best way to cook them. The Ogowe Band
130

BONNY AND FERNANDO PO
thought they were excellent, and they did full justice to
them. A gun from the steamer announced the fact that the
Captain's boat had come for them and they bade their
kind entertainers good-bye, little thinking that in a few
short months good Mrs. Luddington would be in her
grave. So it ever is in Africa.

131

Chapter IX.

OLD CALABAR.

V ¦ ¦ ¦ i^ HEN the young travelers awoke on Mon-
£ A B day morning the Nubia was steaming
^ ^f g toward the broad mouth of the Old Cala-
^*^^-^ bar river.
^* Away on either side was a dark line
of mangroves converging toward some point far ahead ;
while in mid-channel was a fleet of canoes, whose occu
pants were engaged in drawing the denizens of the
muddy waters from their turbid home. There must have
been at least two hundred of these canoes, as the water
for a mile or more was thickly dotted with them. The
way they fished was by planting two long poles in the
mud, and stretching a sort of basket between them. Each
canoe had several of these nets to attend to, but after all,
the number of fish taken was not very large. A few
of these are sold fresh in the Old Calabar market, and the
rest are smoked over slow fires and taken far up into the
country to be sold where fish are scarce.
By and by the banks of the river drew nearer and
the Nubia crossed from side to side as it followed the

132

FOREIGN SETTLEMENT, OLD CALABAR

OLD CALABAR
deep channel; sometimes the ship almost touched the
leaves of the mangroves. The boys kept a good lookout
and were rewarded by seeing two crocodiles, lazy, slimy
fellows they were, appearing to be more than half asleep ;
the girls saw a family of monkeys, — two old ones and
three smaller ones scampering away among the branches
of the trees. The Band were quite excited by the sight
of the crocodiles and monkeys, and felt they had now
reached Africa and no mistake.
At ten A. m. they rounded the Nine Fathom Point
and as they did so, they fired a gun and blew the whistle
as a signal that they were coming, and a little later a turn
in the river brought the town into view. Far ahead on
the left bank of the river was a long line, of foreign
houses close to the water-side, while the hillsides were
covered with the native villages.
Shortly before eleven the Nubia came to anchor, and
in a few minutes handsome gigs were seen coming from
each factory, the strong arms of the rowers making them
leap through the water. All along the coast of Africa
the traders take great pride in their boats and crews.
The "gig," as this kind of boat is called, is long, narrow,
and of a fine model ; and each man's gig is painted a dif
ferent color. So, too, the cloths and caps of the crews are
different, each trader having his own style or color, as our
base-ball clubs have at home.
The traders were all dressed in white and their pale
faces showed plainly the traces of Africa. They gave
Captain Davis a hearty greeting for he was an old friend,
and then they assembled for the transaction of very
important business. The mate had brought up the mail
sack and this was now opened out on the deck and each
pair of eyes sought eagerly through the pile for messages
133

OLD CALABAR
from home and friends or business firm. When the
division had been made, each took his share and returned
to his place of business, and it was not long before surf-
boats and lighters were alongside and the work of unlad
ing cargo begun as at Bonny and at Boogahmah.
Among those who came on board for letters was
Albert Gilles Esq., of the firm of Taylor, Laughlin & Co.,
Glasgow, who may easily be called the leading merchants
of Old Calabar. Mr. Gilles had traveled in America and
he recognized Judge McGee as one of a party of gentle
men he had met in Philadelphia; he was greatly sur
prised to see him in such an odd corner of the world, and
gave him and his party of young folks a most pressing
invitation to make his factory their home while in
Calabar. The Judge thought it best to sleep on board the
steamer as he had been told it was unwise to sleep on
shore when making a journey, and so it was arranged
that when the sea-breeze came in, and tempered the heat
somewhat, Mr. Gilles should send his gig for them.
Old Calabar is forty miles up the river and is a very
hot place ; this was not the hottest time of the year but
still at noon the heat was oppressive, more especially to
those just from the cooler North.
The river here is about five hundred yards wide ; the
right bank is low and covered with a jungle of man
grove, palm and other trees, but the left bank is high and
in some places rises abruptly from the water. Where the
slopes are more gradual, the ground is occupied by native
villages, while at the foot of the bluffs are located the
trading-stations of the great foreign firms. To increase
the available area for building purposes, as well as to
afford better landing facilities, piles have been driven in
i34

OLD CALABAR
the mud of the river-bed and the enclosed space filled
with gravel.
Duketown, as the settlement at Old Calabar is called,
is the greatest palm-oil market in the world ; in the sea
son from five hundred to eight hundred casks, each
weighing nearly a ton, have been shipped in a single
week. The town contains several thousand inhabitants
and the head-men possess a large amount of barbaric
wealth ; several of these live in large handsome houses of
wood and galvanized iron, that were made in England
and then brought out at a cost of several thousand dollars
each. These houses are fitted up with fine chandeliers,
mirrors and other furniture, and when the owners enter
tain a white guest the table is spread with a linen cloth
and adorned with real china, and the food provided is
largely imported from Europe. Of course polygamy and
slavery prevail, but a stranger visiting the town as our
friends were doing, would see little or nothing of either.
The streets of the town are narrow and crooked and not
particularly clean, but as the white people travel almost
entirely by water, it does not make so much difference.
The Ogowe Band sat upon the deck in the shade of
the friendly awning and feasted upon the strange and
varied scenes around them. The trading establishments
along the river were scenes of busy activity; coopers
driving down the hoops upon the great oil casks with a
deafening din ; Kru-boys turning the handles of the sta
tionary iron cranes, to draw up the cargo from boats, and
the casks of oil from the canoes ; women paddling home
after a morning of toil in the plantations ; and large canoes
with casks of palm-oil seeking among the traders for the
best market. Children splashed about in the shallow
water near shore as naturally as white children at home.
135

OLD CALABAR
Slaves came down to the river to wash great baskets of
yams and manioc to be cooked for dinner for their mas-
ters'.xfairiilies. Great clumps of feathery bamboo growing
upon the steeper hillsides, hung like enormous ostrich
plumes quivering in the noon-day heat. Upon ' the hill
top, a little back from the river", the buildings of. the
Scotch Presbyterian Mission stood amid the cool shade of
wide spreading fruit trees, looking from a distance most
home-like and inviting ; over all was a rich flood of trop
ical-sunlight so brilliant and dazzling as almost to pain
the" eyes. .At three p. m. Mr. Gilles's gig drew up beside' the
ladder, and the Judge and his young companions tripped
lightly down the steps and got in ; as the one boat wduld
riot hold so many the Captain sent his" gig too, and a jolly
party they were as the two boats raced down the river.
Mr: Gilles met them at his wharf and conducted
therii through the large open shed to the broad stairway
that led to his comfortable home. Tea was served upon
the wide veranda, and the conversation, wholly upon
African subjects, was most interesting to the young
travelers. ." Mr. Gilles's house was a -very large one, built like
most factories on the coast, in two stories. The ground
floor is used as a shop and the general place of business,
while the second story contains the living rooms'. The
shop is fitted with a counter and back of this the goods are
piled up in regular order, much as in a wholesale Store at
home. Two kinds of trade are carried on, the wholesale' and
the retail. For the. retail trade, brass rods are used as a
medium ; these are passed Out in: Certain proportion upon
every cask of oil purchased and are then used as money
136

INTERIOR OF PALM OIL FACTORY, OLD CALABAR

OLD CALABAR
among the people. These rods cost more according to
their selling price than any other article and the traders
are glad to get them again in exchange for other goods ;
so when a Calabar mother wants a cloth for herself or a
cap for her little boy, she takes some brass rods to the fac
tory and buys it. The wholesale trade is the principal
one and consists in the exchange of bales of cloth, barrels
of rum, casks of tobacco and other goods, for casks of
palm-oil and tubs of kernels.
Calabar is the only port on the coast where the credit
system has been wholly done away with, and this was
accomplished but recently here. When a man has one or
more casks of palm-oil to sell he puts them in his canoe
and his slaves paddle it to one of the factories. Here it
is hoisted up on the wharf, the bung drawn and the oil
sampled ; an offer is then made which is either accepted
or the owner is free to try his fortunes at another factory,
in which case his cask is carefully lowered into his canoe
again. When a bargain is made, a due-bill is given for
the amount, which may then be taken to the shop and
exchanged for goods, or it may be kept until a future
time, being always good until used.
Kernels are sold at so much a "tub" which holds
about a bushel and a half; the price for kernels is uniform,
but as oil is of many different qualities, the price varies
considerably. This is one of the few rivers where white
men have not tried to go up the river to trade, and it is
one of the few rivers where African trade is now profitable.
In every case where white men have pushed up toward
the interior the result has been to raise the cost of the
produce and increase expenses without augmenting the
volume of trade. It is better to let the coast people col
lect the oil, kernels, or whatever the country produces,
i37

OLD CALABAR
than for white men to try to do it themselves ; such at
least has been the experience of trade as Mr. Gilles
explained to the Judge.
Mr. Gilles also said the greater part of the oil came
from the tide-water region and the level country imme
diately adjoining ; that in the hilly districts of the inte
rior the oil-bearing palm was not so abundant and that
most of the nuts were used for food.
"I do not exactly understand what you mean by
kernels," said Johnny.
"The palm-nut," replied Mr. Gilles, "has a fibrous
pulp on the outside which contains the oil ; inside this is
a very hard nut or stone, and in this nut is a kernel which
has a black skin but the meat is pure white and contains
a fine oil."
" It must be a great deal of work to crack so many
pits," observed Lulu.
"You must remember there are a great many hands
to do the work," responded Mr. Gilles.
" Where do the Calabar people go to get the oil?"
asked Willie.
"They go to what they call the markets," replied
Mr. Gilles. "Everywhere throughout this part of Africa
there are towns where markets are held on certain days ;
everyone goes who has something to sell or who may
possibly wish to buy, and of course pretty much the whole
neighborhood are there. Our Calabar people fill their
canoes with goods and go to these markets and buy the oil
and kernels and bring them here to us to exchange for
goods again. The oil is brought to these markets for sale
in earthen jars, and sometimes in kegs and small barrels
and is not put in the big casks you see until the Calabar
trader has purchased it." 138

OLD CALABAR
" Are oil and kernels the only things brought to these
markets for sale?" inquired Grace.
"No indeed," was the reply, " almost everything you
can think of; and, by the way, if you do not mind I will
tell you a little story."
"By all means," chimed in the other girls, "we want
to hear it."
"Well, then," continued Mr. Gilles, "there was once
a man trudging along to one of these markets carrying
three hoes on his shoulder ; they should have been made
of iron, but" this fellow had them made of clay and
thought he might sell them to some one who did not
know any better. By chance he came up to another
man who was carrying a basket with three crows in it and
was going to the same market.
'"Well, my friend,' said the first man, 'what have
you got in your basket and where are you going ? '
'"I have three chickens in the basket,' said the sec
ond, ' and I am going to the fair at Kirasa to exchange
thenrfor three hoes.'
" ' How fortunate ! ' replied the first, ' for I have these
three hoes that I am taking to the same market to buy
me three fowls ; now why should we go further? let us
make the exchange here,' and so they did.
"'Now-J' said the second one, 'these fowls are very
wild; I have only just caught them and they are not
accustomed to being confined in a basket ; I would advise
you not to open the basket until you get home, for they
might fly away'
'"And I,' said the first, 'have only just made these
hoes and they may be a little soft yet, and perhaps you
had better not try to use them until they have had a little
time to harden.' So they made the exchange and each
139

OLD CALABAR
one returned to his home. When the first got there he
opened his basket to look at his fowls and out flew the
crows. The second thought he would try his new hoes,
and they broke at once and he found they were of clay.
" The next time they met one said, ' See, we have each
been trying to cheat the other, now' why should we do
this any more ? Let us go together and cheat others and
then we will soon get to be rich men.'
" So they went on together and by and by they came
to an old lady who was tending goats, and they said to
her, ' Mother we see you have had a hard time of it with
these goats ; ' and she answered, ' Yes, they are always
wandering away and I mus,t run after them to bring them
back, and I am so old and stiff it is too much for me.'
" Then these rascals said, ' We are truly very sorry for
you and we will try to help you so you can have an
easier time of it.' Then they took long cords and tied
one end of each to a goat, and the other. ends around the
old woman's waist, and' they said to her, 'Now mother,
you just sit quiet, and when one of the goats wanders off
this way, 3^011 can take hold of the cord and draw' him
back ; and when one wanders that way, you can do the
same thing, so you willbe able to sit quietly all. the
while.' "The old woman was very: grateful to them and
blessed them, so they went their way "but presently returned
with a dog and set him at the goats ; this frightened them
so much that they rushed away in all directions arid tore
the old woman to pieces. Then these wicked men caught
the goats and took them away and sold them"; and so they
kept on deceiving the people, but by and by they were
found out, and their heads were cut off and their bodies
were thrown in the river."

140

NATIVE TOWN, OLD CALABAR RIVER

OLD CALABAR
The Judge observed that this sounded to him like an
African story, and Mr. Gilles replied that it was one that
was current among the people and had been told him by
a chief. At six o'clock the factory bell rang and all hands quit
work and went to their quarters to rest after the labors of
the day. Mr, Gilles had invited some friends to take din
ner with him and meet his American guests ; these now
arrived and were introduced to the Judge and his young
companions. Messrs. Lyon and Munroe were prominent traders,
each in charge of important factories ; Mr. Holmes was a
contractor who had come out from England to put up a
large house for a native chief; Captain Davis came from
the Nubia, and there were Mr. Sleigh and another of Mr.
Gilles's assistants.
The dining-room extended all the way across the
house and was all needed to seat so large a company. A
punka over the table created an agreeable breeze and .
made the dinner more enjoyable. It was surprising to
come across so much comfort and even elegance on the
coast of Africa, for the dinner was served with as much
grace and style as in many a pretentious home in good old
England. Our friends gleaned a large amount of useful infor
mation from these gentlemen concerning the country and
the customs and superstitions of the Calabar people. Mr.
Gilles had lived in former years on the Gaboon and a deep
scar on his face attested his bravery in an encounter with
the cannibals. Among the many good things on the table were two
dishes new to the American travelers ; these were palm-oil-
chop and Avagada pears. Old Calabar is noted for its
141

OLD CALABAR
palm-oil-chop, which is blacker and hotter than elsewhere
on the coast. What they had for dinner this evening was
made by a wife of one of the chiefs and was so hot with
pepper it fairly burned like fire, and the Ogowe Band were
obliged to desist from attempting to eat it. This dish is
a great favorite with " old coasters," and is both whole
some and nutritious. It is made of palm-oil and the
pulp of the palm nut, fish or chicken, yams, and a whole
handful of small chilli peppers, and tastes, as Saxe
expressed it, "like concentrated African sunshine." The
best of all meat to put in it is monkey, although croco
dile or hippopotamus meat does very well ; some of the
native people use snake-meat cut up into suitable lengths.
Avagada pears are much larger than any pears we
see in the market at home, and are more of a vegetable
than a fruit. The outside is a purplish brown and inside
is a large stone or pit ; the flesh is yellowish green and of
the consistency of custard. It may be served in a variety
of ways, but the usual fashion on the coast is to cut the
pear in half and in the cavity occupied by the pit, pour
vinegar, oil and mustard, with a little salt and pepper
(some add Worcestershire sauce) and scrape out the pulp
with a spoon. The pear has a peculiarly rich, buttery
taste, and this, combined with the condiments already
mentioned, is greatly relished by those who have acquired
the taste. Our young friends partook of them sparingly, and
indeed it may as well be stated at once that tropical fruits,
such as they are, do not taste good to a Northerner and are
really very poor, compared with those of the temperate
zones. It is true a few hundred years of careful, scientific
culture may so change them, as it has our own fruits and
vegetables, as to make them really luscious, but at present
142

OLD CALABAR
their excellence exists mostly in the imaginations of those
who have never seen them.
The evening proved a most enjoyable one, and it was
time to go all too soon ; by ten o'clock our friends had
thanked their kind entertainer for his hospitality and
were on their way to the Nubia, having first accepted an
invitation to spend the next day with Mr. Lyon. This
gentleman is an early riser and his gig was alongside next
morning before the Ogowe Band had breakfasted, but
they did not keep it waiting long and were soon on their
way up the river.
Hope Factory is the furthest up the river of the long
line of trading-posts and is well situated for business, as
all the canoes coming down the river must pass it first.
Mr. Lyon met them at the wharf and showed them all
the factory buildings and the manner in which palm-oil
is prepared for shipment. The casks are lifted from the
canoes by an iron crane at the end of a long, covered shed
and are rolled to one side out of the way. All the buying
is done in the morning ; in the afternoon comes the work
of preparing the oil for the home market. It is all taken
from the casks in which it came down the river and put
in great caldrons heated by steam, and boiled to clear it
from impurities; it is then ladled out into clean new
casks, bunged tightly, and the casks whitewashed and
rolled into the store-room.
Kernels are carried up from a landing on shore and
measured in tubs, and are thrown in a bin where a belt,
with tin buckets on it, carries them to another bin in the
second story ; from here they come down a chute into
sacks, which are then sewn up and piled to await shipment.
A steam engine furnishes power for running the endless
belt, and also saws wood and pumps water, as well as
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OLD CALABAR
makes steam to boil the great oil kettles. A railway track
runs from the store-houses to the end of the pier and so
makes it easier to handle so much heavy weight. Every
thing was in perfect order and the quietness was remark
able, considering the amount of work accomplished.
In the back yard were many kinds of trees, and here
our young friends first saw coffee growing and ripening on
the trees ; Mr. Lyon had some served after lunch and it
was excellent, fully equaling the best Java. There was
a large chicken-house, a pigeon-house, duck-pond, and
goat-house. The quarters for the workmen, were clean
and tidy and so were the kitchen and laundry; the ;girls
came to the conclusion that Mr. Lyon was a good house
keeper. After a careful inspection of the premises the party
sat down on the front veranda to rest and enjoy the lovely
view on the river. As Hope Factory is located on the
bend of the river, there is a clear view of the entire water
front of the foreign settlement, and with, a good glass
everything moving on the water may be. seen.
The Judge had been surprised to see so large an
amount of rice unloaded from the steamer; he had; ex
pected to see rice exported rather thari imported. „ Mr.
Lyon informed him that the . coast people, especially in
large towns like Duketown,. would rather, buy their -food
than raise it, for they thought it. was easier to spend some
of their profits from the oil trade in purchasing, provis
ions, than to dig in the ground and grow' therii. What
was most surprising was that rione of. the interior tribes
attempted to supply this demand. . for' food; but left it for
white men to import from, abroad. Hundreds of tons of
rice, hard bread, salt- beef, and codfish, are, sold. .in the oil
rivers every year. Many of the wealthier men purchase
144

MISSION HOUSE, OLD CALABAR

OLD CALABAR
flour, butter, tea, sugar, coffee, sardines, and other tinned
provisions — -paying for all these things in palm-oil.
In the yard in front of the house were twenty-seven
great hogsheads of American leaf tobacco, giving good
evidence of a love for the "fragrant weed" by the dark
sons of this tropic land.
While they were conversing a great drumming was
heard up the river, with shouting and wild songs, and
presently canoes came in sight around the bend. They
were such as our friends had seen at Bonny, many of them
larger, and were full from stem to stern with a double line
of men paddling with all their might and singing at the
top of their voices, while the drummers beat their tom
toms furiously, and a medicine-man in each canoe, dressed
in a most fantastic manner, was dancing and throwing his
body in grotesque attitudes.
Mr. Lyon explained there had been a great "palaver "
or council up at the markets, about the price of oil, and
the Calabar people were now returning. It was a won
drous sight, for there were more than forty canoes and
perhaps two thousand men ; the canoes had great quanti
ties of fetiches trailing in the water from bow and stern,
and the great chiefs were arrayed in a gorgeous regalia of
monkey skins, feathers and paint. A street parade of a
circus is tame compared with this barbarous pageant of
negro savagery ; these men were all devil-worshipers and
it was easy to believe they were in league with the powers
of evil. In speaking of factory life, Mr. Lyon explained that
factory people are astir early. Usually by the first dawning
light, a servant brings a cup of coffee and a piece of toast
to each one, either to the dining-room or to his own room
as he may choose. The factory bell is rung and all hands
x 145

OLD CALABAR
"turn to" and the business of the day is begun. Native
people are also astir early and most of the produce is
bought by nine o'clock. At ten A. M. the shop is closed
and the white men have breakfast. At noon the bell is
rung for all hands to " knock off" and a rest is given until
two P. m., when work begins again; at six o'clock the
labors of the day are ended, and quiet reigns until the
morning. At Old Calabar, by agreement among the traders, (an
agreement faithfully kept) no work is done on Sunday,
and as a matter of fact, the Sabbath is more strictly
observed on this wild African river than in our own home
cities. Who knows but Africa may yet teach by example
the so-called Christian nations of the world !
The Judge was greatly interested with this informa
tion and made inquiry concerning the Scotch Mission and
its work among the people. He was informed that it
was for many years a power in the community and had
done great good, but that dissensions had crept in, and, at
Duketown at least, had destroyed its influence. Mrs. Ross
has an independent church with a Sabbath congregation
of six hundred, and she enjoys the respect and esteem of
both natives and foreign traders. Younger missionaries
have recently been sent out by the Scotch society and
these have gone up the country and are busy building
stations and doing other preliminary work, and it is hoped
that substantial advance will be made in educating and
Christianizing the people. There is quite a strong force
at Creektown, a few miles up the river, and a large church
has been built entirely by subscriptions of natives and
traders. The Duketown mission was in full sight from Mr.
Lyon's house and looked so cool and inviting among the
146

OLD CALABAR
trees, that Mr. McGee expressed a desire to visit it. Mr.
Lyon replied that he would be most happy to accompany
him, and at five o'clock the whole party were on their
way down the river. They landed at the wharf at Mr.
Gilles's factory and climbed the steep path back of his
house, that led up to the mission premises. The hill
kept off the sea-breeze and the walk was a warm one.
The location of the mission was a pleasant one when it
was reached, but our friends felt it was a mistake to put
the mission on top of a hill where it was somewhat diffi
cult of access, when the river is the natural highway for
natives and foreigners alike ; but little work appeared to
be going on and our young travelers did not make a long
stay. An excursion to Creektown had been arranged for
our friends next day, but it rained and they could not go.
On Thursday morning at five o'clock the anchor was
hoisted from the muddy bed of the Old Calabar river, and
through the mists of the early dawn the Ogowe Band saw
the white houses of their trader friends fade away in the
distance. As they doubled Nine Fathom Point the sun's
rays began to pierce the dull gray vapors with streams of
soft white light, fit emblem of the Sun of Righteousness
which even now is rising o'er this dark land, bringing
life and immortality to light through the gospel, growing
brighter and brighter unto the perfect day.

147

Chapter X.

KAMERUN AND ELOBY.

3FTER the Nubia had. passed, the bar at the
mouth ' of the Old Calabar river, Captain
Davis joined the Judge and his young com
panions, and the conversation was -' very
naturally upon the sights and incidents of
their stay at Old Calabar. The Captain called, the atten
tion of the Judge to the peculiar geographical location of
Old Calabar, and in order the better to illustrate what he
was about to say, he sent to his room for a chart.
"Now," said he, "you will see by this chart that the
Kong mountains, which thus far have been the coast
range, end near the Calabar river in rather low foothills,
and the Cametoons range lie "distinctly to the south of it;
this gives a free pathway to the interior. You will notice
too that this is the nearest point on the coast to the heart
of the great Soudan. For myself I do not believe in a
healthy interior ; I do not believe there is anything healthy
about Africa either morally or physically, but if there is
any healthy interior anywhere it lies to the north and
northeast of Old Calabar. 14S

GOVERNMENT HOUSE, KAMERUN, SOUTHERN GUINEA

KAMERUN AND ELOBY
" We know that this vast region is well watered, has a
fertile soil, is largely an open grassy country and is cer
tainly free from the dense, damp forests of the equatorial
region and the coast-line. It may be that some extensive
region can be found where white colonists could live,
which would afford a favorable outlet for the surplus pop
ulation of Europe; or, a second India might be made
there of Hindoo coolies and other Eastern nations. A
railroad of but a few hundred miles in length would
extend to Lake Tsad and would drain a far more produc
tive country than the Congo. I believe that to-day the
world presents no more inviting investment for capital
than such a railroad."
As the Judge examined the map, he was convinced
the Captain was right, and he felt sure such an enterprise,
if carefully managed, would be a real success.
At four P. M. the Nubia arrived at Victoria, at the
foot of Mt. Albert of the Cameroons range. This
mountain rises from the sea to a height of 13,800 feet,
and its bold form was strongly outlined against the sky.
It is a volcano and smoke may sometimes be seen rising
from its summit. A few years ago the side of the moun
tain opened about half way up and mud and water burst
forth. It is clothed with a dense forest growth, and as the
"evening sun shone upon it, it presented a striking and
beautiful appearance.
The bay of Victoria is full of islands which rise
rather abruptly from the water, and are covered with a
solid mass of vegetation of the most brilliant green,
making them appear like gigantic emeralds set upon the
bosom of the sea. Upon one of these islands is a large
house belonging to the English consul ; but he is seldom
at home, for most of his time is spent in traveling up and
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KAMERUN AND ELOBY
down the coast within the limits of his jurisdiction. On
shore, at the foot of the mountain, are four or five Euro
pean houses near the beach. One of these is the Prot
estant Mission where the beloved Robert Smith lived and
died. No man on the African coast was more widely
known and loved than he. There is a large native pop
ulation, not gathered in one town by the water-side, but
scattered in small villages through the forest.
Victoria is exceedingly rich in tropical vegetation,
but it is rather out of the steamer track, and is a lonely
place. There was but little to put ashore here, but as the
Kamerun river was but a comparatively short distance
away, the Nubia remained at anchor through the night,
giving every one a fine opportunity for a good sleep.
When at anchor in the rivers, the nights on an African
steamer are not favorable for sleeping; the heat1 is great,
the state-rooms close and confined, and mosquitoes are
sometimes troublesome ; it is usually considered unsafe to
remain on deck, and so every one is thankful for a quiet
night outside.
At four A. m. the Nubia was again under steam and
by breakfast time was entering the delta of the Kamerun
river. This delta is quite extensive although not nearly
so large as those of the Niger and Ogowe rivers. There
is an inland navigation almost to Victoria, and also for
some distance to the south. The water of this river is
very muddy, perhaps more so than that of any river on
the coast. The foreign settlement is on the south side of the
river, about twenty miles up, on the first solid land above
the mangroves. Here a clay cliff, some thirty or forty
feet high, faces the river ; at the foot of this cliff are the
factories and store-houses, and upon its top are the gov-<
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KAMERUN AND ELOBY
eminent buildings, mission station and native villages.
The river is narrow and at low tide exposes large mud-
banks to the sun ; opposite are low islands covered with
mangroves, and, with the exception of here and there a dry
spot, these same trees extend up the river to the foot-hills
of the Cameroons range. On a clear day Mt. Albert is
plainly seen rearing his giant bulk far above the line of
fleecy clouds ; as a rule, however, a clear atmosphere is a
rarity in the coast region ; there are not many rainy days,
most of the rain falling at night, but.the air is so charged
with moisture as to present a slight hazy appearance, as
though one were looking through a thin, white, gauzy
veil. The Nubia pushed her way steadily against the tur
bid tide and at ten A. M., anchored between two hulks
abreast the town. There are several of these hulks used
as trading-posts, and they are all fast in the mud close to
shore, to which they are attached both fore and aft by
heavy chain cables. Notwithstanding the mud-banks,
the general appearance of the place is good ; nowhere else
had our friends seen so many oil-palms, nor such fine spec
imens as they saw here.
Coming up the river the first object to strike the
eye is Government House, built of brick and painted a
fine shade of terra cotta. It is modern in style, as may
be seen in the engraving, and presents a pleasing contrast
to the glaring white houses so universal on the coast.
Next to Government House are two galvanized iron
houses used as offices by the government officials ; these
are all on the level ground on the top of the bluff and are
surrounded by lawn and gravel walks. Good concrete
steps lead down to a covered iron pier which forms an
excellent landing-place. This part of the coast, from the
151

KAMERUN AND ELOBY
Gampo river on the south, to a point .riear the Old Cala
bar river on the north, is a- German Protectorate'- ruled by
a governor appointed, by the Imperial Government. ' The
Germans took possession in' 1885 after a hard fight with
the natives, arid have been active in the work of improve
ment, and will' doubtless do much to develop and civilize
the country. • A free school has been established and -the
native tribes are kept in subjection, so that tirade and com
merce may flow on unimpeded. J It may wellbe doubted,
whether on the whole, foreign colonial ' enterprises are
beneficial to Africa, but there can be no question that the
Eriglish and Germaris are' far superior to the Latin nations
in their influence upon the natives.
The Nubia was anchored close by the mission -land
ing and soon two of the brethren^ Rev. Messrs. Arritz and
Bastiari, came off and were introduced by Captain Davis.
These brethren very cordially ' irivited the^ Judge, and his
young friends to' visit -the mission and they prbrriised" to
do so toward ;everiing.
Among7 the traders who came for their inails and to
hear the news, was Mr. Kudelirig, agent for the great
Hamburg firm of Jantzen and Thormahleri. When he
heard that the Judge arid his party were going to Gaboon,
to be the guests of his friend Mr. Reading,- he gave therii a
pressing invitation to make his factory their hbfne, as-'he
felt he could not do too much for any one : in whom' Mr.
Reading was interested.' -As his factory adjoined the mis
sion-station, the Judge decided to -take lunch with Mr.
Kudeling and walk up to the mission in the afternoon,
and it was not long before he and the Ogowe Barid were
seated in the front room df the "factory, through which the
breeze passed on its way up the river, making the room
comfortably cool. 152

A BIT OF THE KAMERUN BEACH, LOW TIDE

KAMERUN AND ELOBY
Mr. Kudeling gave the judge a long description of
the palm-oil trade, and the habits and customs of the
natives. He informed his guest that the Kamerun was
made up of a number of small streams that drained the
southern slopes of the Cameroons range and were navi
gable for canoes as far as the foot-hills, after which they
were obstructed by rapids. No one had succeeded in fully
exploring these rivers, nor the country beyond them, owing
partly to the dense jungles, and partly to the jealousy of
the natives. At a point some distance south of the Kam
erun there had been greater success, one explorer having
penetrated for a distance of twenty-three days in a north
easterly direction. From what he saw it was quite cer
tain that after the belt of dense jungle, some two hundred
miles in width, was passed, there was a fine country
thickly populated, but at present raising little that was
valuable for export.
Referring to the possibility of a railroad, as suggested
by the Judge, Mr. Kudeling thought the natural difficul
ties to be overcome would be very great, owing to the
mountains and the jungle ; still, if the first two hundred
miles could be gotten over, and some of the navigable
affluents of the Congo reached, it might open a wide
extent of the interior to German influence.
The Judge shared the opinion, common in civilized
lands, that if the narrow belt of country between the
coast range and the sea (covered with jungle, containing
a sparse population, unhealthful, and cursed with the rum
traffic), produced so much oil, rubber and ivory for export,
what might not be expected from the vast interior when
once put in communication with the sea ; an interior not
only of immense extent, but with a large population all

153

KAMERUN AND ELOBY
eager for the comforts which civilized nations stood ready
to furnish. Mr. Kudeling remarked that this was a delightful
dream, but a mistaken one. He called Judge McGee's
attention to the fact that the oil palm is only found in
commercial quantities in the sea-coast region, and on the .
low lands of the Congo Basin ; that rubber grows only in
deep, dense forests where but few people can live ; that
elephants can exist in a wild state only where the country
is comparatively uninhabited; that wherever there is a
fine open country the people have little or nothing to sell ;
that the greatest amount of produce is sent from those
rivers where the white men remain near the sea ; and that
the opening up of the interior has decreased the ship
ments, as is true of the Ogowe and the Congo.
The Judge admitted the African riddle was a com
plicated one to solve. "The volume of African trade,"
observed Mr. Kudeling, "will not -greatly increase until
the native people learn to cultivate the soil and obtain
from it those products that are needed in our home-lands,
such as sugar, coffee, cocoa, and spices; this at present
they will not do."
The idea of colonizing Africa with Chinese, Hindoos
and other industrious nations was then discussed, and Mr.
Kudeling informed the Judge that the most intelligent
among the traders believed it might be a success if the plan
were wisely carried out. While Mr. Kudeling and the
Judge were discussing these weighty problems, the Ogowe
Band were out on the piazza [seen in the picture], with
their eyes opened wide to drink in the novel scenes of
the strange land they were visiting. It was now low tide
and the river-bed was exposed to view for a long distance
from shore. The towns-women were coming down the
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KAMERUN AND ELOBY
the path with great baskets of dark brown roots on their
shoulders ; these baskets were held in place by a broad
band that passed over the forehead. The loads were
heavy and the poor women were bent nearly double some
times by their great weight. Little children trotted by
their mother's side, full of life and fun, all unmindful of
the life of toil and privation in store for them.
The Band watched with eager interest to see what
these women were going to do. They saw them go out
upon the exposed river-bed until they came almost to the
water's edge ; then they began to dig with a short-han
dled hoe, something like a small adze. The soil here was
gravel and the scrape, scrape, scrape, from many hoes,
attested the energy of the diggers.
"What are they digging for?" queried Mamie.
"Let's wait a little and see," suggested Laura.
When a good big hole had been made, the women took
banana leaves and lined it neatly and then peeled the
roots and placed them carefully in the leaf-lined hole;
after this the gravel was carefully heaped in a conical
mound over the covering of leaves, and the work was
complete. "I wonder how each one can tell her own mound
when she comes to open it ? " said Jessie.
"Why," said Lulu, "I saw one of them pull out an
end of a leaf and fix it very carefully along the side of her
mound ; I would not wonder if they put a little private
mark on them in that way."
"These must be cassava roots," added Hattie, "and I
remember hearing Mr. Reading say one time when he was
in America, that they contained a poisonous juice, and
must be soaked a few days before using; I should not be
surprised if this was what the women were doing."
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KAMERUN AND ELOBY
When the women had finished burying their roots,
they went to other mounds, and, opening- them,, took out
the large white roots, carried them"- to where the water was
knee-deep and -washed them clean, then piled them on
round wooden trays, and balancing them carefully on
their heads, picked up their baskets and hoes, called the
little ones to them, and trudged along homewards no
doubt to prepare dinner for a hungry family.
Poor heathen . mothers ! how carefully, and- may be
lovingly, you provide for your husband and your little
ones, just as thousands of gentle, loving mothers do at
home ; do you know there is a beautiful world of light
where you may rest when, your earthly toil is ended?
Have ever hopes of a better life entered your dark breasts
to cheer your hearts.and- help you along life's weary way?
Do vague longings for a better land sometimes steal over
your soul? Who can tell? Are we not taught that you are
feeling after the loving, infinite One, if haply you might
find Him, though He be" not far from any one of us? Who
can estimate -the joy of making known to these toiling
ones that dear- Saviour who is the great Burden-bearer as
well as Redeemer of mankind?
The boys' were greatly interested in some half-grown
youngsters who were, fishing. Whenever you warit to
wake up a boy all over, show hirii. some one fishing. ' But
not only were those boys fishing, but they were pursuing
their finny -prey after .a novel fashion. ¦ They had taken
several long banana leaves and fastened therii end to end
so as to form a length' of." several yards ; the thin part of
the leaf hung down from the mid-rib and did duty as a
net, and was not such a bad substitute' in the shallow
water. One of the boys would start out from shore with
an end of the banana-leaf net, and then he would circle
156

A BIT OF THE KAMERUN BEACH, HIGH TIDE

KAMERUN AND ELOBY
round and the two would drag the impromptu net quickly
up on the gravel, bringing crabs and little fishes with it.
A third boy carried a wooden bowl in which the game
was put, and they appeared to enjoy the sport as much as
some members of the Band would have done.
At four p. M. the Judge and his young friends walked
up the path that led to the mission. This mission was
begun many years ago by the English Baptists and was
in many respects very successful. When the Germans
desired to annex the country they asserted that these Eng
lish missionaries incited the natives to resist them ; be this
as it may, the Germans were not long in possession of
Kamerun when the enterprise was transferred by the
English Society to the Basle Society, a German-Swiss
organization, and it is now under their management.
They are trying to establish stations at various points up
the river, and it is to be hoped their efforts may be pro
ductive of good ; but, belonging as they do to the con
quering nation, they do not as yet stand well with the
people. The Ogowe Band were very kindly received by the
brethren at the mission, and also by Mrs. Leitzer who had
recently been left a widow, and who was now acting in
the capacity of housekeeper. Coffee was served, and then
Mr. Arntz took our friends around to inspect the premises.
The house is two storied, built of brick made on the prem
ises, and is covered with a galvanized iron roof. All the
buildings, including the church, are of the same materials.
The grounds are small, and the Judge thought the brethren
made a mistake in allowing the bananas to grow so near
the house, forming a barrier to shut out the sea-breeze and
all view of the river, and making the house damp and
unwholesome. 157

KAMERUN AND ELOBY
After supper Mr. Arntz took his guests up to the
veranda of the second story, and here, above the broad
banana leaves, was an extensive view of river and marshy
islands. The veranda extended around the house, and on
the land side the brown houses of the people were seen
clustered beneath the oil-palms, presenting interesting
pictures of African home-life. After spending a pleasant
evening Mr. Bastian took our friends back to the Nubia
and bade them good-night.
The next morning the Judge and his young com
panions went to visit the Governor. They landed at the
neat, covered pier and climbed the concrete steps to the
level plain at the top of the bluff where the government
buildings are. The grounds were tastefully laid out, and
many trees and other plants were seen that were new to
their eyes.
Baron Soden, the governor, received them cordially,
without any fuss or parade, and soon made them feel quite
at home. They had a pleasant chat and found him to be
in every way an accomplished gentleman. He regretted
their short stay in the German possessions, and hoped they
would arrange for a longer visit before their return to
America. On their way back to the Nubia our friends called at
one of the trading hulks to pay their respects to Captain
Dayas to whom they had letters of introduction. The
Captain was an "old coaster," and told them many inci
dents of former years, before steamers had brought Africa
into such close communication with the rest of the world.
He showed his visitors over the hulk, but it did not differ
materially from the factories already described, except that
everything was necessarily crowded. The Captain told

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KAMERUN AND ELOBY
them that business was not nearly so profitable as in
former years.
In the afternoon when the sun had somewhat lost
his power, and the sea-breeze had cooled the air a little,
the Judge and his party went ashore and took a stroll
through the native towns. All the leading men among
the people had, when young, been educated in the mission
school and so could speak English, which enabled our
friends to go about without an interpreter as they could
always find some one to converse with.
From the government buildings a well constructed
road runs parallel with the river to the upper end of the
island, for Kamerun is upon an island. This road wound
among the groups of houses and beneath the shade of
lovely palms, making a delightful promenade. The town
is two miles long and nearly as broad ; it is not built in
continuous streets, but with short ones ; or small groups
of houses are separated by strips a few rods wide planted
closely with bananas and plantains ; each of these little
settlements belongs to those of one family name, and its
domestic politics is administered by the oldest man of
that family name, who calls the small aggregation of
houses, "his town." Between these "towns" are narrow
footpaths among the banana groves, and now the wide
government road makes a broad avenue through the
whole. Most of the houses were oblong in form and
built of bamboo ; some were made of boards, and there
were a few two storied ones of brick which the Baptist
missionaries had taught them to make.
The people wondered greatly to see so many white
folks walking through their town, and they were especially
surprised to see the girls. The little children were much
frightened at beholding so many pale-faces and ran crying
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KAMERUN AND ELOBY
to their mothers ; indeed the sight of a white face every
where in Africa creates consternation among the children ;
a white face in this land seems to be an unnatural object
and even the wild beasts of the forest notice it quickly.
All hunters find it expedient to black their faces before
going in pursuit of game.
In front of some of the houses were quantities of
light brown nuts exposed upon mats in the sun to dry.
An old man explained that this was cacao and then going
to a dense bushy tree with large, long leaves, he drew
aside the foliage and showed them the golden fruits or
pods that contain the seeds. The Judge knew at once
that this was the bean from which chocolate is made.
The old man said they gathered the fruit when ripe and
dried the seeds in the sun, and then sold them to the
traders for a six-pence a pound.
Near the farther end of the town they heard a great
drumming and singing, and following the sound they
came upon a dancing party. An open space surrounded
by bamboo houses was filled with a crowd of lookers-on
all critically watching the party in the centre. At one
end of this square a fine large house was built on posts
and our friends were invited to climb the short ladder to
the front veranda where they were presented to the master
of the house who was giving this ball in honor of some
important family event.
From this piazza an excellent view was obtained of
the dancing party which consisted of something over a
hundred women standing close together in single file in
the form of a circle. The orchestra consisted of several
drums beaten furiously by stalwart negroes and to this
were added the. voices of the women chanting a wild song
to which they kept time with their bodies ; their move-
160

THE NUBIA AT ANCHOR IN THE KAMERUN RIVER

KAMERUN AND ELOBY
ments were oftentimes more energetic than elegant, but
after all, perhaps not more objectionable than a fashionable
dance at home. '
The Ogowe Band soon had enough of it and going
down the ladder they continued their walk. They were
scarcely out of hearing of the drummers when they came
upon piles of brick, and men squaring logs to make beams
for some new building; a well dressed and intelligent
looking black man standing near introduced himself as
the "pastor of the church," and informed the Judge that
the native congregation was building a new house of
worship, making the bricks and doing the work them
selves. He said this native congregation paid him his
salary and also kept up several schools in the town, and
country districts, but they found it hard work to do so
much' and it required a great deal of sacrifice on their
part. He walked along for some distance with the Band
and gave them much valuable information about the
people and the mission work, and when he left them he
gave them into the care of a young man to show them
through soriie of the byways of the town and then con
duct them safely to the landing.
When they reached the steamer they were real tired,
but a change of clothes and a good dinner rested them,
and they enjoyed their chairs and the sea-breeze that
evening, while they talked over what they had seen during
the day, and it was a late hour before they retired for the
night. The next morning the ship was half way down the
river when the tourists came on deck ; it was a lovely
Sabbath day, quiet and beautiful ; one of those days when
the calm and peace of Heaven enters the soul and we feel
lifted above the worry and care of earthly existence — a
xi 161

KAMERUN AND ELOBY
day to do one good, restful and comforting both to body
and mind. At intervals during the day the coast-line was in
sight, but far away to the eastward and not near enough
to be distinctly seen.
On Monday morning the Nubia was headed for the
shore, and when the Ogowe Band reached the deck after
their coffee and toast, the dark, heavy mass of Cape St.
John was on the left and the island of Corisco away to
the right, while before them were the waters of Corisco
Bay. This bay is some twenty miles in depth and the
water in many places is shallow ; as they passed in they
could see quite plainly with the aid of a glass the Amer
ican Presbyterian Mission station. Indeed this society
had formerly three stations on this island, but there is now
only one and that is in charge of a native man. It was
thought that because this island was so small and so far
out in the sea it would be healthful, but such did not
prove to be the case as the well filled cemetery can testify,
and now the efforts of the society have been transferred
to the main-land.
At nine o'clock the Nubia anchored off the island of
Eloby where the foreign settlement is. This tract of country
about Corisco bay is claimed by the Spanish, and there is
a Spanish military post on Eloby. This island is small
and has no native population, being occupied entirely by
the trading factories and the Spanish mission and military
post. It is a lonely place in which to live and one needs
a good flow of spirits to keep from getting the "blues"
here. On the main-land, four or five miles away, was a large
English factory at the mouth of the Muni river which
comes down from the Sierra del Crystal range. Mr. Arm-
162

KAMERUN AND ELOBY
strong, in charge of Holt & Co.'s factory, gave the Judge
and his party a cordial invitation to take a little run
ashore and visit his factory, which they did. The chief
article of export is rubber, there being but little oil offered
for sale in this neighborhood. Everything about Mr.
Armstrong's factory was in excellent order showing him
to be a good manager. He informed the Judge that each
factory paid a tax of a thousand dollars a year to the Span
ish Governor and that trade was slow and unprofitable.
At four p. m. the Nubia left Eloby and the American
voyagers began to gather up their things and get ready
to leave the ship in view of an early termination of their
journey.

163

Chapter XL

ARRIVAL AT GABOON.

¥HE Ogowe Band were astir with the dawning
light. The Nubia had been running " dead
slow" all night for when once out of
Corisco Bay she had less than fifty miles
between her and the outer buoy off the
mouth of the Gaboon ; as soon as the Captain could see
the beacon on Sandy Point he had put the engines to
"full speed" and this had roused our friends from their
slumbers. When the Judge and his young companions reached
the deck they saw before them a wide expanse of water
with the shore-line on either side barely visible ; away to
,the eastward, up river, nothing- was to be seen but water ;
indeed the Gaboon river is more like an inlet from the
sea, than a river, for its average width for the first thirty
miles is at least teri miles. It had rained some during
the night and heavy banks of mist hung over the land as
if some of the clouds had fallen from the skies and were
resting there. 164

ELOBY, CORISCO BAY

ARRIVAL AT GABOON
The Nubia was heading for the Point on the south
side of the river; by the time she reached this and turned
her prow toward the northern bank, where the foreign
settlements are, the sun had burst through the mists and
clouds and was shining brightly upon river and land.
When half-way across the river Captain Davis ran up the
stars and stripes at the fore, as a signal to the American
Mission that he had passengers on board for them. There
was considerable speculation among the members of the
Band as to whether the signal would be seen and under
stood, but the Captain told them there was no doubt Mr.
Reading was watching them for he had an unusually
good glass, and it was the custom of those ashore to scan
approaching steamers as soon as they were visible.
As they neared the northern bank they saw spread
out before them the finest landscape they had yet seen in
Africa ; indeed the view from the usual steamer anchorage
is one of the most beautiful in the world. Along the
river-bank for two and a half miles are the factories and
residences of the foreign settlement; about the govern
ment buildings this assumes the proportions of a good
sized town, with large stone buildings, a cathedral,
machine-shops, and a stone pier extending into the river.
The brown roofs of the native villages are almost hidden
by the broad banana leaves and the heavy masses of
foliage of the mango trees. Back of the town are hills
and grass-fields with little clusters of houses here and
there, and in the distance are high hills covered with
heavy forests. Along the beach is a fringe of cocoanut
palms, their great fronds trembling in the morning
breeze, while the river is alive with canoes, boats and
steam-launches moving about, and larger vessels at
anchor. 165

ARRIVAL AT GABOON
At the extreme upper end of this charming picture,
upon a hill rather more than a quarter of a mile from the
water, is the Baraka station of the American Presbyte
rian Mission. It is quite a little village of itself, with a
grass-field on the slope next the river and a large orchard
of fruit trees back of the houses. The new church, but
recently completed, is a conspicuous object, and the dwell
ing houses look cool and inviting beneath the shade of
the cocoanut and breadfruit trees.
The Nubia stopped her engines near a large white
hulk anchored a mile from shore just abreast of the gov
ernment buildings ; this the Doctor told the Band was the
"guard-ship." "We must remain here," said he, "until
the health officer comes off and give us permission to pass."
"Gaboon," he continued, "is one of the most troublesome
places on the coast, we must get permission for everything
we do, and the officials seem to take delight in humbug
ging us ; the people on shore are slow to take away their
cargo, we get little or no return cargo, and we steamer
people have little love for Gaboon, I can tell you."
The Doctor had scarcely finished his discouraging
narration when a boat was seen pulling off from the
guard-ship and in a few minutes was alongside the ladder.
The Purser handed the ship's papers to the officer in the
boat, answered a few questions, and was then told it was
all right ; the boat returned to the guard-ship, and the
Nubia steamed off a half a mile and anchored.
A few minutes later Captain Davis came down from
the bridge and pointed to a boat heading for the Nubia
which he said was the mission boat. The Judge and his
companions watched this boat with eager interest as it
drew gradually nearer ; it was propelled at a good speed by
six strong Kru-men, and in the stern was a short, stout
166

Gaboon 7f/vf/?
Plan of Baraka Mission Fremis£S, *,«,»«»«».

ARRIVAL AT GABOON
man of forty, with long side whiskers; this was Judge
McGee's friend, Mr. Reading, missionary in charge of the
Gaboon station. The Judge waved his handkerchief and
so did the members of the Band, which was responded to
by Mr. Reading by raising his hat; soon he was along
side and up the ladder, and he could scarcely believe his
senses when he saw before him his old friend Judge
McGee and a full round dozen of young visitors. This
was the first time in the history of the mission that vis
itors had come all the way from America, and Mr. Read
ing felt himself extremely fortunate at being thus honored.
Captain Davis inquired if he had seen the signal, and he
said he had, and supposed there was some of his coast
acquaintances on board who wished to see him.
It was now breakfast time and all hands repaired to
the saloon, but there was more talking done than eating,
for the events of the voyage had to be related, and the
news from the shore told. Boats and • canoes now began
to gather about the Nubia, and a steam-launch brought a
custom-house officer who was to remain on board until
the steamer left, and without whose permission not a sin
gle article could leave the ship. The customs regulations
at Gaboon are intricate, and it is not an easy matter to
land a large lot of baggage; a small amount may be
taken ashore at the police station near the mission landing,
but larger quantities must go to the custom-house for
examination. The Captain placed his gig and steam-launch at the
disposal of the party, and Mr. Reading proposed that they
should all go ashore with the portmanteaus and smaller
articles and in the afternoon he and the Judge would
return for the trunks ; this plan met the approval of the
custom official and it was not long before the two boats
167

ARRIVAL AT GABOON
were filled with the happy party and cutting through the
water behind the steam-launch on the. way to shore. ;
When near the beach they "cast loose" from the
launch, and turning their bows toward the river so as to
cut the breakers, they drifted ashore stern first until they
began to bump and then the Kru-men "jumped over
the side, leaving one man in the, how, to keep, the boat
facing the waves, and began to carry the .'passengers
ashore. An official at once , walked down, frorii the sta
tion to see what was brought ashore, but. he made no
trouble for he knew Mr. Reading well, and a few yfords
of explanation was all that was needed.
The Ogowe iBand ; were delighted to , be, on . land
again; at all the other places they: had gone ashore they
were transient visitors and the ship was." their home, but
now the voyage was ended, they were, cut loose from
the steamer and the goal. of 'all their journey was reached.
They had often pictured in their minds what Gaboon must
be like, but now they found it quite different from what
they expected.
Mr. Reading's little carriage was in waiting" at the
boat-house ; at his suggestion two of the girls got iri it arid
were quickly wheeled away by four of the boat's crew,
followed by the rest of the ; party on foot. Some .of.the
mission boys were awaiting the boat's arrival, and these
carried the portmanteaus and willow. . chairs. As the
party passed up the street through the town the native
people came to greet the strangers, and inquire of Mr.
Reading in their own language who they were, for they
had an idea these were all new.friissionaries come to live
among them; they gave many exclamatioris. of surprise
when they learned they were 'simply visitors.

168

BARAKA MISSION STATION, GABOON

ARRIVAL AT GABOON
The four Kru-men with the carriage were soon at
the top of the hill and Mrs. Reading, who came out on
the piazza when she heard them coming, was not a little
surprised at seeing two girls, almost young ladies, instead
of the husband she was expecting. When she learned
who they were and who were coming, it almost took her
breath away, but she soon recovered herself and gave them
a hearty welcome. Little Lizzie, the only child of the
household, was glad to see them too, but she was bashful
and kept close to her black playmates who had come in
the house with her.
The news of the new arrivals quickly spread over
the premises, and by the time Mr. Reading and his party
had reached the house, numbers of black faces were seen
everywhere trying to get a view of the strangers. After
introductions all around, -the Judge in behalf of the
Band gave a short account of the journey and their rea
sons for coming to Africa, which were, to see the country,
and learn what they could of the manners and customs of
the people, and the progress of mission work among them.
Mr. Reading commended the idea and promised to do all
he could to assist them in carrying it out; coffee was
then served and Mrs. Reading gave orders to her girls to
prepare rooms for the use of the visitors.
After lunch Mr. Reading and the Judge rode to the
beach in the little carriage and then went to the Nubia in
the mission gig, to see about landing the trunks ; at the
same time the platform wagon was sent to the custom
house two miles away to bring them to the mission when
they had been inspected. Before getting in the boat Mr.
Reading went to the police station and informed the offi
cials where he was going, and for what purpose. Nothing
can leave the Gaboon beach, nor can anything be landed
169

ARRIVAL AT GABOON
thereon, without a written statement countersigned at the
custom-house, except personal luggage accompanying
passengers. As nothing was being taken to the Nubia,
except bananas and mangoes to the Captain, nothing was
needed but simple permission.
The sea-breeze was now coming in and the waves
getting high so that it took rather more than an hour to
pull to the ship. Everything was in confusion on her
decks, as is always the case when cargo is being worked,
and it was some little time before the trunks were ready
to go ashore. Captain Davis very kindly gave the use of
one of his surf-boats and the launch, so that when once
ready they were not long in reaching the pier.
The Judge thanked the Captain most heartily for all
his kindness and courtesy, and Mr. Reading invited him
ashore to dinner at six o'clock, which was declined, as
he would get back to his ship too late in the evening,
and this was now the rainy season for this part of the
coast. When the trunks arrived at the pier, the men who
had come with the wagon carried them to the custom
house and they were opened, but there was little trouble ;
the Judge was asked to make a "declaration" of all arti
cles that had not been in actual use, and when this was
done, a duty varying from ten to twenty-five per cent was
charged, the money paid, and the luggage was free.
The Kru-men now loaded the trunks on the platform
wagon and departed for the mission, while Mr. Reading
and his guest returned to the gig and an hour later were at
the mission landing. As they were carried ashore a black
policeman came to see if anything had been brought from
the steamer, and when he found there was nothing, he
returned to his chief to report. 170

ARRIVAL AT GABOON
While the gentlemen were away for the trunks, Mrs.
Reading and the Band were not idle ; the boys found an
agreeable friend in Mr. Presset the French teacher, who
took them to his room and entertained them with accounts
of his African experiences.
The girls gathered around Mrs. Reading in the par
lor and it was not long before they had a number of
callers ; these were mostly members of the church, who
came to pay their respects to the young ladies; sweet-
faced, intelligent women they were, and as they spoke
excellent English, they could converse with the young
ladies without an interpreter. Indeed the Band could not
but confess a certain amount of disappointment, for, after
their long journey, and many rude scenes by the way, here
they were at their journey's end, and behold, a civilized
community and well dressed, intelligent natives addressing
them in English !
The house, too, looked wonderfully comfortable and
nome-like ; to be sure it was without ceiling, open right
np to the roof, but it had neat China matting on the floor,
plenty of rocking-chairs, lounges, desk, and organ ; while
npon the centre-table were the same newspapers and
magazines to be found in a well-to-do home in an Ameri
can city. For lunch, too, the table looked as inviting
with its white linen and silver as if their mothers at home
were expecting friends, while the food was nearly the
same as it might have been in Philadelphia.
"Never mind," said Mrs. Reading in reply to Mamie,
"if you visit some of the country places, as I expect you
will, you will experience enough hardship to satisfy you,
I have no doubt. Mr. Reading and I have not always
found it so agreeable. When we first came to Gaboon we
were dependent upon Sailing vessels for our food and we
171

ARRIVAL AT GABOON
have known what it is to be hungry, and when we did
have something to eat it was not always of the best.
" I remember one time I went up the Ogowe (the
river that gives its name to your Band) with Mrs. Bach
elor ; Miss Dewsnap was there waiting for us, and both
she and the two traders had run short of provisions ; they
sent her a little corn-meal and she scraped her own barrel
to get the flour that stuck fast to it; of this mixture she
made three small loaves of bread, one for each of them.
They were eating this bread when we arrived with two
barrels of flour, and I can tell. you there was rejoicing.
In our boat journeys on the Ogowe, and in the lakes, we
have sometimes run short of provisions, and even when
we had something to eat we could not take time to cook
it, for it takes a long time to cook in the forest, and we
needed to push on in order to reach our destination."
By this time little Lizzie had thrown off some of her
shyness and had made friends with the girls, so while her
mother went to see about tea, she took her visitors out to
see her monkey and parrot. Polly was a nice bird, with
grey plumage and a bright red tail ; she had her liberty
during the day and walked about the yard like a chicken,
but her wings were closely clipped so she could not fly
away. Every night the house-boys put her in a box until
morning, so the rats should not eat her up during the
night. In Africa there are no flies as in our summers at
home, but there are a great many rats. These rats might
with propriety be called "bush rats," for most of them
live outside and come into the house at night ; they are
very cunning and are not easily caught in a trap.
The girls wanted to hear Polly talk, but this she
would not do, she turned her head and looked up at the
172

MRS. JOSEPH H. READING

. ARRIVAL AT GABOON
strangers in an inquiring way, but she would not say any
thing. Lizzie told the girls Polly would talk only when
alone, and that she could not speak English, but only
Mpongwe. "What is Mpongwe?" asked Grace.
"That is the name of this people, and the name of
their language," . replied Lizzie, "and I like it ever so
much better than English, too."
"Do you talk the same as the black people?"
inquired Hattie.
"Yes," was the reply, "I learned that first, and I
know it best; my name in Mpongwe is Avanji."
[Ah-van-nge] "What a funny name," said Lulu, "I never heard
such a name before."
Across the yard was the monkey, a bright little fellow
with a white nose, and a very long tail ; he had a little
house to live in, and was fastened with a small, rope.
When he saw the girls coming toward him he jumped
around at a great rate and made believe he was afraid, but
as soon as they were near enough he grabbed Lulu's dress
and gave it a little tear ; that young lady promptly gave
a good sized scream and the saucy little monkey sat up
and laughed at her.
"That is just the way he goes when he gets loose,"
said Lizzie ; " sometimes papa lets him loose just to see him
run after the boys and girls; he bites them, too, some
times, and makes them fear very much."
"What do you give him to eat?" inquired Laura.
"Just whatever we eat," was the reply, "but he likes
most of all a piece of meat, or a dried fish ; he likes
bananas and palm-nuts, and everything."

173

ARRIVAL AT GABOON
The girls were inclined to be shy of the monkey,
and they went to the kitchen to see how that was
arranged. In the tropics there are no fires in the houses ;
there may indeed be an oil-stove for heating water in the
night, in case any one is taken with a chill, but all cooking
is done in a separate building some yards away.
The kitchen at Gaboon is built of bamboo, and has
a mat roof. The stove is a number eight American
cooking stove, and wood is used as fuel ; the pipe does not
run into a chimney, nor out at the end of the house, but
stands straight up for five or six feet and then ends there,
so all the smoke comes into the kitchen and must find its .
way out doors the best it can. The floor is clay, while
the pots and pans are like those at home ; Ntyndorema
[En-chin-do-rem-mah] presided over this important depart
ment of the Mission establishment, and was a very good
cook, as the Band soon discovered. He was a nice young
fellow and devoted to Mr. and Mrs. Reading. They had
taken him from the Ogowe Bush when he was as wild a
little savage as ever paddled a canoe on that noble river ;
now he was an educated young man, a member of the
church, a singer in the choir, and could cook as good a
dinner as any one need wish to eat. Mrs. Reading did
not need to go to the kitchen from one week's end to the
other ; an hour before tea, and two hours before dinner he
appeared before her and received his orders, and he needed
no further looking after, but when the appointed time
came, all was ready. In the evening he came for orders
about breakfast, and when bread needed to be baked he
did it without being told.
" Do you have cows or horses?" asked Hattie.
"No, we don't have any," replied Lizzie, "the Gov
ernor has lots of cattle with great big horns ; they go by
*
174

ARRIVAL AT GABOON
here sometimes and they are so lean and look so poor;
sometimes one of them falls down and cannot go any far
ther. He gets them in a ship from some place far away,
I don't know where."
"What makes them fall down?" inquired Mamie.
"Oh this grass is not good except when it is young,"
responded Lizzie, "It gets to be very high and the cows
won't eat it, any way not if they can help it."
"The grass is nice now," observed Jessie.
"Yes," continued Lizzie, "this is the beginning of
the rains, and it has just commenced to grow ; it gets to
be higher than a man, and in the dry season it is all
burned off and the ground is bare."
While they were talking a flock of wild parrots flew
overhead, screaming and whistling and talking as they
flew ; soon another flock passed, and another ; Lizzie told
the girls they did so every evening ; in the morning they
went to their feeding-grounds and in the evening they
returned to their town to sleep.
"Do the parrots have a town?" inquired Grace.
"I don't know," said Lizzie, "that is what the
people say, and anyway there is an island up the river
called Parrot Island and may be that is their town."
The girls came around the end of the house to where
Mr. Reading had a little flower-garden ; perhaps it would
be more correct to call it a nursery, for he used it mainly
to start trees and plants to be afterwards set out in different
parts of the grounds. It was but a small place enclosed
with a low bamboo fence, and just where he could look
into it from his study window.
By the side of this little nursery was something the
girls took far more interest in — two low trees covered
with beautiful scarlet fruit, and very good to eat as well
175

ARRIVAL AT GABOON
as pretty to look at ; these were Batangas, or African
cherries, the best fruit that Africa produces. They were
just in their prime, and the slight acid taste was most
grateful to the young folks after being so many days at
sea. Seeds of this delightful fruit have been brought to
this country, and it is to be hoped they will grow in our
southern States.
While the girls were eating the cherries, the two
gentlemen returned from their excursion to the Nubia,
and the young ladies followed them in the parlor to hear
the news in regard to their trunks.
After resting a little, Mr. Reading proposed a short
walk about the yard, as there was still half an hour before
dinner would be ready. In front of the piazza were
several beds of lilies, ail native specimens, and these were
now in full bloom ; along the walk leading down to the
church was a long line of dwarf marigolds just beginning
to bloom. Mr. Reading explained that this, (the first of
November), was the spring-time of the tropical year, the
rains having begun a month before. The marigolds had
been planted in boxes in the nursery during the dry
season and carefully watered, which was why they were so
forward. Across the field, at the foot of the hill, was a
thick clump of East India bamboo ; in the midst of this
clump was the spring.
Mr. Reading informed the Judge that good water was
not easy to get and that toward the end of the dry season
there was a good deal of strife for what little water there
was in the spring, although it was on the mission prem
ises. The towns-people come in the early morning and
even the French gunboats send their men for the precious
liquid. " I have been so troubled," said he, "that I have
been trying to see what I could do in the way of storing
176

ARRIVAL AT GABOON
up rain water to last us during the dry season. I have
been two years at it, and am now entirely successful ; if
you will come with me I will show you."
He led them to the upper part of the yard where
there was a neat galvanized iron store-house, and showed
them two covered cisterns, one on each side ; they were
nearly full of clear, sweet water, and were as nice cisterns
as could be found anywhere. " When we were building
the church steps," continued Mr. Reading, "we ran short
of brick and would not be able to get more for nearly a
month ; I was afraid to let my mason go for fear I might
not be able to get him again, as the government was
doing a good deal of work then, so I set my men to
quarrying stone and we built that large cistern you see
unfinished over there by the kitchen. The food-house
just beyond must have a new roof next dry-season, and
then I will put on galvanized iron, raise the cistern walls,
put on a roof, and it will hold water enough for all
my people in July and August when water is so scarce."
From the top of the hill, just back of the storehouse,
is an extensive view up river as far as the eye can reach ;
in the grass-field below are the pretty brown bamboo
houses of the people, while back from the river, across the
creek, are hills covered with a luxuriant growth of trees.
Encircling the hill at the rear of the mission buildings is
a narrow valley of rich soil; while walking along the
hillside overlooking it, Mr. Reading said, "This valley
was a jungle of wild growth when I came here. I cleared
it out, and now, as you see, it is a garden of palm-trees ; my
men get enough nuts from it to make themselves palm-
oil-chop nearly every day. This hillside too, was little
better than a wilderness, and now I have growing on it at
least a hundred young trees besides the bananas."
xii 177

ARRIVAL AT GABOON
Mr. Reading exhibited the small cocoa-nut, mango,
breadfruit and other-trees, with a -fatherly pride that told
plainly of his love for them ; and indeed' the premises
were so large and in such good order as to proclaim him
an enterprising and successful gardener.
A messenger now came to announce that dinner was
ready, and the dining-room was soon filled with a merry,
happy company. A new dish on the table to the Band
was fried breadfruit; this had much' better be called
"potato-fruit," for it .is riot at all like bread, while it
exactly takes the place of "the potato, and is cooked in the
same way. It is not a native of Africa, and is only found
in the gardens of ^ Europeans, or occasionally, in soriie
towri where it has. been planted by a Christian native, for
the heathen will not plant trees.
- The fruit may be roasted in the fire, but it is usually
boiled and eaten with gravy or palm-oil, and what is left
is "out -in thin slices and fried for the next meal ; this is
the way Mrs. Reading had it for dinner, and the Band
liked-it -pretty well, but it has a sickish, sweet taste which
is not altogether agreeable to a northern palate.
After dinner a few minutes were spent on the front
piazza enjoying the refreshing sea-breeze,; and -then all
adjourned to the parlor to ¦ sperid a pleasant evening.
Here at the equator the suri setsevery night at six o'clock,
and by half-past six it is beginning to get dark.. As the
young tourists retired for the night, the rustle ' of the
cocoanut leaves and the patter of '. the rain-drops gave
place in their consciousness to dreams of dear ones far
over the deep blue sea. >

178

LITTLE LIZZIE

Chapter XIL

BARAKA AND GABOON.

IN the tropics everybody is astir early ; however late
either natives or foreigners may have been up the
night before, it is the custom to rise early in the
morning and begin the labors of the day with
the first dawning light ; this was the case with the Gaboon
household ; and so by half-past six all were out of their
rooms, had taken a small cup of strong coffee, and were
ready for whatever the day might bring forth.
The sun was just peeping over the eastern hills, and
the mists in the valleys were rising in response to his
alluring warmth to float as masses of white cloud in the
bright blue sky. The wild parrots were flying to their
feeding-grounds, filling the air overhead with their shrill
voices, and all animated nature was greeting the new day
with expressions of gratitude and praise. Out on the river
the fishing boats were seeking the finny inhabitants of the
waters, and the noble ship that had brought its precious
freight from the distant shores of happy England, was
swinging lazily with the tide. 179

BARAKA AND GABOON
Just as the Band stepped out upon the front piazza,
the bell rang, and the heads of the various working
departments came to receive their orders for the morning.
The mission family take an informal cup of coffee
immediately on rising, either in their rooms or at the table
in the dining-room, as each one may choose. The first
bell rings at six A. M.,.and the second at half-past six.
When the second bell rings, all the native workers present
themselves to Mr. Reading at the front veranda ; causes
of complaint, if there are any, and requests of all kinds
are then presented, the operations of the day outlined,
and the necessary orders given. The Kru-men have a
head-man who receives all orders for the work they are to
do, and who is responsible for its performance ; the head
carpenter receives his instructions, the head mason his, the
young man who buys the native provisions his, and the
one who transacts the business with the French officials his.
The Bible reader and the two theological students have
their tasks assigned them, and usually there are documents
for Mr. Presset to translate and prepare in French.
But the missionary cannot get along by giving
general orders to his people if he desires really satisfactory
results ; - he must be perfect nraster. of details, and not only
•direct what shall be done, but take hold and show how to
do it. At this morning hour, and indeed all through the
day, people from town will come with' all sorts of requests,
letters of inquiry relating to business affairs will be received
from the factories, and policemen and other agents of the
Government will bring notices and copies of new regula
tions of various kinds, all of which are to be signed.
When all of these matters have been attended to, if there
is any time left, the missionary attends to his private
correspondence and does his writing for the press.
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MISS SUSIE DEWSNAP

BARAKA AND GABOON
At eight o'clock there is breakfast, and after that the
more active labors of the day begin; the missionary takes
off his coat, rolls up his sleeves, puts on his broad-rimmed
sun-hat, and sallies forth. All parts of the premises are
visited, work inspected, trips made to the beach, and the
factories; plantains, dried-fish, bush-rope, bamboo and
other native produce examined and bargained for; all
kinds of supplies passed out to workmen, and to people
from town in payment of debts in the form of due-bills ;
goods received from the steamer and cared for, or packed
and shipped to other parts of the mission-field.
At eleven o'clock a single stroke of the bell calls the
caterer for each group of workmen or colored mission
family, to come and get the provisions for the day. There
is no regular supply of native food, and the mission must
feed every one in its employ except the mission family
itself, which must buy its own food or do without. Many
plans have been tried at Gaboon for feeding its employees,
but the one now adopted is to keep on hand rice and
codfish, with a common grade of salt beef, all of which is
imported from England. Plantains, eguma [e-goo-mah],
and dried fish are purchased when they can be had, and
when these fail the rice and codfish are given out, with a
piece of salt beef on Saturday to those who have done
specially well during the week. The ration for one
person for one day is eight fingers of plantains, and two
dried fish, which are like the little smoked herrings sold
in the grocery stores of America. If there are no plantains,
a cup of rice holding a pound and a quarter is given
instead, and when there are no dried fish, a small codfish
is given for each person for one week.
Rations are given out at Baraka for from thirty-five
to forty people including women and children, and when
181

BARAKA AND GABOON.
visitors from other stations are there, the number of course
is greater. Once a week, each mess, or family, is entitled
to a plate of common coarse salt. When cocoanuts,
breadfruit, bananas, or peppers can be spared, they are
divided around ; but this does not often happen, and
when it does occur they are usually distributed in the
evening. At noon the bell rings and all work ceases ; the men
cook and eat their dinner, and the mission family retire
to their rooms and rest for an hour, when dinner is
announced. Unlike the traders, the heaviest meal of the
day is taken at one o'clock ; this is not a good plan, but
it accords better with the work of the station.
At half-past one, the bell again rings, and the head
of each department comes for additional instructions, if
any are to be given. The missionary now settles himself
at his desk, and brings forth the memoranda taken during
the morning ; books are posted, accounts copied, bills
forwarded, letters of advice written, orders made out, and
" declarations," manifests, bills of lading and other business
papers prepared.
At 4 P. m. the theological students must have an
hour's instruction, and then it is expected there will be a
little breathing spell, but it seldom comes, and this closing
hour of the day is spent in pastoral visits or some other
form of light work. With six o'clock comes supper, and
if there is no evening service the hours until bedtime are
spent in study.
This is a brief outline of one part of an ordinary
day's work at Gaboon, for the management of the house
hold, and the work among the women, has not been
mentioned ; all of this, of course, falls upon the lady of
the house. The school too, being entirely in the French
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BARAKA AND GABOON
language, is under care of Mr. Presset, who was sent out
from Paris to take charge of it, in accordance with the
Colonial Law. Mr. Presset is also invaluable in translating
documents and facilitating intercourse with the various
departments of the French Colonial Government.
Gaboon being the headquarters of the mission, there
are seldom two consecutive days alike; the arrival and
departure of steamers from England, France, Spain,
Germany and Portugal, as well as to and from the various
rivers and coast-ports, and of the mission sloop "Nassau,"
breaks in upon the regular routine of the station and often
in an hour's time entirely changes the current of the
day's operatioris.
Large amounts of merchandise are used by the mission
in exchange with the natives, and the handling of this
under the intricate and vexatious custom-house regula
tions, without horse or other draft animal, one-third of a
mile from the beach and on top of a hill at that, and
two miles from the Government offices, and still further
sometimes from the steamer, with no wharf or hoisting
appliances, and under an equatorial sun, consumes a great
amount of time and sadly reduces the missionary's
efficiency for spiritual work among the people. Then,
too, all these goods are to be retailed out, and it not
infrequently happens that the missionary holds forth one
day the emblems of the broken body and shed blood of
our Lord, and the next day is landing cargo or dickering
with his congregation over a bar of soap or a head of
tobacco. As it is not the design of this work to criticise
missionary operations, these and kindred matters, will not
again be referred to, unless it be incidentally to keep up
the run of the story. 183

BARAKA AND GABOON
Strangers arriving in Gaboon are expected within
three . days . to call upon the GoYernor.and obtain his
permission .to remain iri the colony; this; permit, is issued
by the. Governor's Secretary and "vised.'! by the Chief of
Police, who xecordsiiri a book for the. purpose,: all the facts
of interest in".refer'ence;to the .new-corner. With such a
large; party it was only ;necessary. that one person.'. should
visitthevGo.vernor as the representative of all", and: so after
breakfast Mr. Reading and the" Judge ;rode" away in the
little carriage to call on hirii.
The sensation of ridirig behind human horses was a
novel one, and- while it might seem. strange in our. own
home-land, yet in Africa it was easy to feel it was the correct
thing, as it harmonized perfectly with the surroundings,
and the Judge thoroughly enjoyed it ; it was surely much
more comfortable than to be carried iri a hariimock, and
much easier for the men. There was no danger of these
horses running away, and no rieed of any lines;, a word
now and -then was all that was. needed, and the little
carriage was" so light it was just fun to pull it.
r'The French'haye made an excellent road, parallel with
the:,beachi three jniles long; this road, with a few connect-.
ing. streets, is. the only road nearer than. Kamerun, on.the
north, and Congo fori the south..; 'all the vast interior is one
great' jungle" with the waterwaysas. the only. open, lines of
tradeand travel. French road-fnakirig; is thoroughly done
and'is as'experisive'.as' preparing 'a.road-bed.'for. a railway.-
After, the bush .has been .cleared ..way and: the ground
somewhat smoothed, a temporary narrow-gauge .railway
is laid, alorig: the section, to be improved, and' extended to
a stone quarry. . Heavy stone is then, laid over, the ground
andrfillediir with .broken stone, arid so on until the desired
grade is reached, when the top is carefully rounded and a
184

*rt'~W

j.  —

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BARAKA AND GABOON
layer of gravel spread over the whole. Meanwhile ample
preparation is made to carry away the drainage ; the sides
of the road slope sharply to the gutter, and are covered
with a coating of lime and cement. Lime-stone is found
near the river, and lime is burned in the kiln, seen on the
right in the engraving.
Along the line of this road are three iron bridges
which span as many streamlets which come from the hills.
The larger of these streamlets separates Gaboon into two
unequal portions ; the larger of these portions is called
the Plateau, or French settlement \ and the one further up
river is called Glass, or the English settlement. Formerly
these were about equal in importance, but of late years
Plateau has grown rapidly and Glass has diminished both
in size and importance.
Gaboon was, but a few years ago, an important
trading-station for ivory and rubber, but trade has now
almost entirely fallen off, and is simply a retail business
for the supply of the resident population. Drinking
places and eating houses pay better than trade, and the
number of small establishments has considerably increased
of late. The road to the Plateau does not present any striking
features, but it is very pleasant, and many a bright picture
of tropic life and scenery may be enjoyed as one rides
comfortably along. The Government buildings are built
of stone and are large, cool, comfortable and well adapted
to the uses for which they are intended.
M. Ballay, acting Governor of the French colony of
the " Gabun et Congo " is a quiet, pleasant, middle-aged
man, under whose wise and energetic administration
Gaboon has gone steadily forward in improvement. He
has an enviable reputation as an explorer and has done
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BARAKA AND GABOON
much to open up the vast region now claimed by France.
He and Mr. Reading were old-time friends, having lived
together in the Ogowe, and he was greatly pleased to see
the Judge and offered to do all in his power to make his
sojourn in the colony agreeable and profitable. The Judge
thanked him for his kindness and remarked that he might
need his assistance by and by in his efforts to visit the
Ogowe river.
After taking leave of the Governor the two friends
went down to the telegraph station, and the Judge sent a
cablegram to America announcing his safe arrival. This
is rather expensive business, costing two dollars, ninety-
six cents a word, including the address and signature ; but
it is wonderful to think that this remote colony in equa
torial Africa should have a wire rope extending under the
sea all the way to distant America. ¦ It takes from five to
eight hours for the message to be transmitted, and as the
difference in time is about six hours, it arrives at its
destination at the same time of day it was sent.
Near the telegraph station is the Roman Catholic
Cathedral, a large, plain, substantial building, kept in
excellent repair, and an ornament to the town.
From the Cathedral to the French Catholic Mission,
a distance of over half a mile, the road runs along the
beach through an avenue of cocoanut palms, with houses
and shops on one side, and the rolling surf on the other,
and is as delightful a drive as can be found in any land.
The Catholic Mission is a large and important one,
employing some twenty priests and nuns, and enjoys the
patronage of the Government. Its chief aim seems to be
to make good citizens of the natives, and in this it has met
with a large measure of success as it teaches handicrafts
of various kinds. The spiritual results have not kept
186

BARAKA AND GABOON
pace with the material, but in regard to these it may be
that a Protestant cannot fitly judge. Its jealousy of, and
opposition to, the Protestant Mission, seems to be its most
unpleasant feature, and also its practice of giving rum to
natives ; indeed it has imported a still and is teaching the
people to make rum from the mangoes ; surely it can
be no part of a religious system to teach the manufacture
and use of a vile beverage that can produce only debauch
ery and crime.
The residence of the Fathers is built of stone, with
tile roof, as is also the chapel which stands beside it. The
grounds are extensive ; much time and effort have been
given to gardening and with a good measure of success ;
tomatoes, egg-plants, lettuce, radishes, spinach, squashes
and other vegetables, are produced in limited quantities,
as are also many varieties of tropical fruits. In the
women's department, which is situated near the cathedral,
the girls are taught to sew, make paper flowers, and other
feminine accomplishments.
While the Judge and his friend were making their
explorations about Gaboon, those who were left behind
at Baraka were not idle ; the boys had made the acquaint
ance of good old Elder Adande [ah-dan-dee], and went
down to his house to see how a Christian African home
looked, and hear his stories about hunting and fishing,
while the girls gathered in the parlor about Mrs. Reading
and begged her to tell them a story of the olden time.
"Fifteen years ago," said Mrs. Reading, "we sailed
from New York for Liverpool on our way here to Gaboon.
In the cabin of the steamer we were introduced to Miss
Susie Dewsnap, a sweet-faced young lady, who was to be
our traveling-companion and associate in the mission work.
At Lagos we were all poisoned by bad water from the
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BARAKA AND GABOON
condenser, which was given us to drink because there was
a quarrel between the stewards and the carpenter, and he
would not give out the fresh water ; nearly every one on
board was ill, but Miss Dewsriap and I suffered the most.
Five weeks after our arrival our little boy died, and Miss
Dewsnap lined the little pine box and laid him in it so
gently, for she had learned to love him almost as much as
Mr. Reading and I. Then we went down to the other
house to live, while she remained in this house with Mr.
and Mrs. Bushnell. Five years after this, she went with
us to the Ogowe to live with Dr. and Mrs. Bachelor, and
we had some good times together while Mr. Reading was
building a nfcw station.
" One day Mr. Reading and I started on a journey up
the river and left Lizzie in Miss Dewsnap's care. We
had not been gone more than an hour when they were both
taken sick. As no one thought the attack was going to
be a serious one, a messenger was not sent after us, and
we went on our way quite unconscious of any impending
evil. When we reached home at noon of the third day
we found them both very ill, and Lizzie delirious. We at
once went to work to do what we. could, for no time
was to be lost, as the African' fever develops with great
rapidity. "Mr. Reading and I took charge of Lizzie, and Dr.
Bachelor, and Mrs. Sneed of Miss Dewsnap, while Mrs.
Bachelor managed the housekeeping and the station. In
two days Lizzie was out of danger and Miss Dewsnap was
dying. Before she died she became blind, which is always
a fatal symptom. We were eating, and the door leading
to her room was open ; she thought it was night and asked
us why we had put out the light ; then she said, ' Do
-please light the lamp, it will do me no harm.' It was
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MR. READING'S LITTLE CARRIAGE

BARAKA AND GABOON
rioon time and the sun was shining with all the brilliancy
with which it is shining now, and her window was open
and she was looking right toward it, but to her it was
darkness. She begged so hard for a light that I was
obliged to go in and tell her she was blind, for neither of
the gentlemen had the courage to do it ; when I told her,
she was quiet a minute, and then she said ' It is all right.'
She knew it would not be long before her eyes would
open to the light of that world where there is no night,
but one eternal day. She soon went into a wild delirium,
but just before the end she came to her right mind
and called us to her one by one, and kissed us good-bye,
and begged us not to be discouraged by her death. Just
at the last a vision of the glorious future of Africa passed
before her mind, but she could not tell us much of it, for
her voice was hushed on earth to burst forth with rapture
in the skies, and we were left alone. We sat there in the
quiet afternoon looking out upon the lovely palms, and
thought of the glad home-coming in our Father's House,
of the welcome to His child ; it seemed to us that we
could hear, like distant music borne upon the summer's
breeze, the triumphant songs of angels and we wished we
were with them to share their joy. Her body was
placed in a neat coffin and laid in a surf boat and towed
to Gaboon, for she made us promise to lay her beside our
little Arthur."
The girls thanked Mrs. Reading for the story and
secretly resolved that they would one day be missionaries
too, and live, and if need be, die, in this very land.
About the middle of the afternoon when the sea-
breeze had somewhat cooled the air, Mrs. Reading and
the girls started out to see something of Gaboon ; the
girls were young and active and did not mind walking,
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BARAKA AND GABOON
so they followed Mrs. Reading and Lizzie who rode in the
carriage. Instead of taking the road they went along
the beach where the breeze was fresh and enjoyable,
until they came to the Long Bridge and then they took
what is known as the Old Road, which is shaded by large
mango trees and passes the Botanical Garden. The
gardener's house was beautifully overgrown with vines,
and in the garden were many plants entirely new to the
young ladies, all of which were described to them by the
gardener. There were very few flowers, for in this land
of brilliant sunshine, for some reason flowers do not
thrive ; the few there are grow on trees and are rather
coarse. The gardener told them he had tried almost every
kind of flower but he had not met with much success in
their cultivation.
After leaving the garden the party turned to the
right and passed along an avenue of cocoanut palms, with
cosy little homes on either side nestling amid a wealth of
shrubbery ; occasionally a larger house occupied by some
French official, or used as a shop or cafe, stood out in an
open space, for, as a rule, foreigners do not care to have
shade immediately about their dwellings. There were
no lawns and no flowers, indeed the only lawn in Gaboon
is at the American Mission.
On the way home they called at the house of Mary
Walker; a young Gaboon woman, and in a few minutes
quite a little crowd gathered to see the strangers. A few
wore dresses, but most of the women had on what is
called a " cloth " ; this is made of five or six yards of wide
calico or chintz, in the form of a sheet and wrapped around
the body, with a little tuck under one arm for a fastening ;
this is the national dress-, and is very becoming, but it
would hardly do for the streets of Philadelphia.
190

BARAKA AND GABOON
Laura thought these cloths would all the time be
coming undone, but the women told her they never
had any trouble and that they were more comfortable
to wear than dresses. A number of the women wore
hairpins made of ivory, which formed a pleasing contrast
with their jet-black hair. Some of the head-dresses were
quite elaborate and Mrs. Reading told the girls that not
unfrequently half a day is needed to arrange one of these
heads. In order not to disarrange the braiding at night,
the neck is laid on a narrow block of wood so that the
head itself cannot touch the pillow.
This was the beginning of the mango season and
everywhere they found both children and grown people
eating the fruit ; it is somewhat larger than a peach, and
with a smooth skin like a plum ; indeed the resemblance
to a large plum is such that foreigners quite generally call
them "mango-plums." They are of a beautiful golden
color, with a red cheek, and look most inviting, but
notwithstanding their attractive appearance they are not
favorites with Europeans ; the flesh is yellow and juicy,
but to a northern palate rather insipid, and the skin is
more than suggestive of turpentine. The native people
think them delicious and during the season they grow fat
upon them, but the tree is not a native of the country
and is only to be found in the settlements along the coast.
The girls liked them best when stewed, for then they taste
much like apple-sauce, and Mrs. Reading told them they
were good made into pies. They may be taken when
half grown, peeled, and the flesh cut off and stewed like
any other green fruit, or they may be used when nearly
ripe. Hattie asked Mrs. Reading to tell her the difference
between a plantain and a banana ; " Ever since I reached
191

BARAKA AND GABOON
the coast," said she, " I have heard of plantains and
bananas and I cannot tell them apart."
"The stalks are so nearly alike," replied Mrs.
Reading, " that I cannot tell them myself, but I know a
plantain requires a richer soil than a banana ; bananas
do well on the hillside back of our house, but plantains,
will hardly grow there. The fruit of the plantain is much
larger and coarser than bananas, and is seldom eaten raw ;
besides, it has when cooked, a very different taste ; I will
have some of both fried for supper this evening and then
you can see for yourself."
" How do you fry them ? " asked Lulu.
"I cut them lengthwise into about four slices,"
replied Mrs. Reading, "sprinkle them with a little salt,
and fry them just as I would potatoes."
When supper-time came the girls were on the lookout
for the tried plantains and bananas ; they liked them both,
but as Mrs. Reading had told them, the plantains were the
best. Supper was a little earlier than usual as the weekly
prayer-meeting is always held on Wednesday evening,
and it is the rule that all who live upon the premises shall
attend ; there were thirty-five native people present, which,
with the Ogowe Band and its leader, made forty-eight.
The exercises began with a hymn; a prayer of
invocation, Scripture lesson, and remarks by Mr. Reading
occupying about eight minutes, just to introduce the subject
for the evening ; two verses of another hymn, and then
all the church members, including the visitors, were called
upon to take part. As each one's name was called the
person spoken to responded by reciting a verse of Scripture,
starting a hymn of which one verse only was sung, making
a prayer, or a short exhortation ; the prayers were short
192

BARAKA AND GABOON
and to the point, and remarks did not occupy more than
from three to five minutes.
In this meeting everyone was free to use what language
he pleased, and so it was that each spoke in his mother
tongue, so there was English, French, Mpongwe, Benga,
Kombe, and Banawkaw. "Good old uncle Adande," as
the boys called him, was eloquent in his address, and the
Band wished ever so much they could have understood
what he said. Notwithstanding the babel of tongues the
meeting was most enjoyable, and it did one's heart good
to attend such a prayer-meeting in this far-off heathen
land. The girls were surprised to see the women taking
part as well as the men, and they were not a little dismayed
too when Mr. Reading called upon them, but they managed
to think of a verse of Scripture each, and so got through
for this time.
When the service was ended there was a hand-shaking
all around and the people were slow to go home, as in our
country churches in America. The people from town
carried lanterns to keep off the tigers, which sometimes
came about and are very much feared ; all the African
people have a great dread of wild beasts of every kind.

193

Chapter XIII.

CHURCH WORK AT GABOON.

*VERY morning the good old Elder Adande
went around among the- villages and country
hamlets to preach to the people, and urge
them to turn from their heathen superstitions
and worship and obey the living and the true God. Before
starting out he came to Mr. Reading to receive any
instructions he might have to give, and then he went forth,
sornetimes remaining away for several days; When - he
came on Thursday morning at the ringing of the -bell,
Judge McGee expressed a desire to go with him and see
how the old man conducted his work; so Mr. Reading
sent- the little carriage, and the boys went too, taking
turns iri riding with the Judge, for the sturdy old African
elder declined a seat, as he was accustomed to walking and
did not mind it a bit
They went back over the hills behind Baraka through
grass now not quite knee-high, which looked'like mowing
fields at home, only the grass was in small clumps and not
spread evenly over the ground. About half a mile beyond
these they came to the crest of a ridge, and before them

j 94

GOOD OLD UNCLE" ADANDE

CHURCH WORK AT GABOON
lay one of the most beautiful landscapes that can be seen
in any country; from where they stood the ground
descended to a valley, through which ran a little stream
bordered on either side by oil-palms ; the slope beyond
was covered with cassava bushes, with here and there
¦clumps of broad banana leaves which nearly hid the
brown bamboo houses of the "plantations," as these little
country settlements are called. On either side were low
hills, some covered with grass and others with trees, while
far away rose higher hills clothed with a mantle of the
richest green. Looking back, they saw the mission prem
ises with its fruit trees and buildings, and beyond them the
river and the deep blue sea ; it was a scene to be indelibly
impressed upon the memory and frequently recalled in
after years.
Adande told them that all this broad land was once
thickly peopled with the little Mpongwe nation, but now
they were nearly gone, and their land was either waste, or
was occupied by other people who had moved in from the
bush. The Judge inquired why it was that they died off
so fast, but Adande replied he did not know, but he
thought it must be owing to rum and the new style cf
living which broke up family life. " Young men do not
wish to get married now-a-days," said he, "they want to
walk about all dressed up like gentlemen, and do not wish
to be burdened with the care of a family ; so there are few
children and these bush-people are coming in to occupy
our land and take our places."
After feasting for a short time upon the lovely scene,
and taking long breaths of the fresh morning air, the party
pushed their way down the hillside, across the valley, and
up the opposite slope to the first plantation, where Adande
was to hold a meeting. The little hamlet consisted of
195

CHURCH WORK AT GABOON
five houses, and as they stepped into the open space that
served as a street a quiet scene of African home-life
presented itself.
An old man was sitting on a short bench making a
fishing net; beside him was his old wife twisting the
fibers of the pine-apple leaf to make cord for him ; a
younger woman, perhaps his daughter-in-law, had a large
bundle of these leaves beside her and was scraping away
the pulp from them so as to get the fiber. A man had
just brought up a basket of clams from the creek, and
another was cutting the beautiful golden palm-nuts from
a large bunch he had taken from a tree in the valley ;
two or three children were playing about, and a couple of
"women were peeling the cassava roots, while another one
was sewing ; a hen was scratching in the dirt for worms
for her young brood, and a half a dozen large ducks and a
mother goat with her kid completed the list of the street
population. The people were rather surprised to see so many
white faces, but they knew Adande and greeted him with
a respectful "Good morning." After some preliminary
conversation, Adande began to speak to them of their lost
condition and their need of a Saviour, and as he pursued
his subject he grew quite eloquent, but as it was all in the
Mpongwe language the Judge and the boys could only
guess at what he said. After the exhortation came a
prayer, and then there was more conversation.
In one of the houses, huddled over a smoky fire, was
a poor old woman who was sick ; she sat in the ashes with
scarcely any clothing on, and her poor withered form
looked more like a mummy than a living being, so
covered was it with dust and smoke. Adande told the
Judge this was the country fashion for old folks ; when
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CHURCH WORK AT GABOON
they got sick they hovered over the fire to try to keep
warm and but little attention was shown them. Far away
from Gaboon, beyond the reach of the gospel, it is the
custom to throw such old folks in the river when they get
sick and troublesome ; or they are taken out in the forest
and left to be eaten by the tigers ; sometimes a little food
is given them so as to enable them to linger for a few
days, and occasionally one, more humane than the rest,
will knock the poor old creature over the head with a
club and so end the misery at once.
How different this from the treatment of aged parents
in our own loved land ; truly the tender mercies of the
wicked is cruelty. The one thing which principally
distinguishes the heathen from the irreligious classes in
Christian lands, is their utter absence of feeling toward
suffering of every kind ; in all other respects the difference
is not so great as is commonly supposed — as the Bible fitly
says [Eph. 4, 19], they are " past feeling " and no degree
of human agony can move them in the least.
From this little plantation the party went on, visiting
three others, and returning to Baraka by another road ; the
Judge and the boys were completely tired out and glad
to stay at home in the afternoon and rest.
The women of the Gaboon church hold a prayer-
meeting in town every Thursday afternoon under the
leadership of Mrs. Reading; at three P. M. she and the
girls, with Julia the Bible-woman, and the Christian
women who live near Baraka, went down to the house of
Animbina [ah-nee-mbee-nah], near the beach, where the
meeting was to be held. The house was a very pleasant
one, built of bamboo, with board floors, wide, cool piazzas,
and wood-work neatly painted. There were curtains at
the windows, nice furniture in the rooms, pictures on the
197

CHURCH WORK AT GABOON
walls, and a sewing machine near the door ; altogether it
was a comfortable home, neat and clean as any one could
wish for, and the girls thought they would not object to
just such a home for themselves. A number of women
came in, some members of the church, and some heathen,
until the house and front piazza were filled.
Mrs. Reading gave out a hymn and read a Scripture
lesson, both in the native language, and then Julia, and
others, made remarks and led in prayer. It was a meeting
to warm one's heart, so earnest, so tender, and all in the
wild language of a heathen tribe, some of whom had now
learned to love that dear Saviour who had died that all
tribes and nations might be brought home to His Father's
House to become one great family in the heavenly home
above. The hour and a half quickly passed away, and when
the meeting was over Mrs. Reading introduced her guests
to the towns-women who gave many exclamations of
surprise at their coming so far to see them, and made
complimentary remarks upon their beauty and goodness ;
but as these observations were in Mpongwe the girls were
quite ignorant of what they said, and smiled sweetly upon
the old women in the most innocent fashion. It is quite
a funny predicament to have persons comment upon your
appearance before your face and not know what they say.
When the people had dispersed to their homes, Mrs.
Reading sent Lizzie and five of the girls up to Baraka,
and then went with Lulu to make a call on Sarah, one
of the Christian women whose house was on the beach
near by. Sarah is one of those comfortable persons who
hold to the even tenor of their way whether the events
of life are pleasant or otherwise, and who are always in
a good humor. Sarah's life had been in many ways a
198

CHURCH WORK AT GABOON
trying one, but she had borne it all with such good nature
that she was a favorite with every one ; she was a model
wife and mother, and a great worker although very fleshy.
The sun was now declining in the west, and the sea-
breeze came in so cool and refreshing that when the
carriage returned Mrs. Reading determined to take a little
turn up the beach; it is a delightful ride when the
tide is low, for the wet sand is smooth as a floor and it
seems as if the carriage were running on rails. For half
a mile the houses line the beach, and then a turn around
a corner, where there is a bay, hides the town and shipping
from view and gives one the feeling of having suddenly
plunged into the wilderness; sand crabs are running
around, birds flit about, and one would not be surprised
to see a monkey or a snake ; the last idea was not a
pleasant one and Lulu asked Mrs. Reading if there were
many snakes in Gaboon; she received the comforting
assurance that there were but few, and these were not
likely ever to be in her way.
"The most troublesome snakes we have," continued
Mrs. Reading, "are those that get in our eyes."
"O mercy!" exclaimed Lulu with a shudder, "how
can snakes get in your eyes? "
"There is a kind of Guinea worm," replied Mrs.
Reading, "about two inches long, that has a flat head and
looks just like a snake, that gets in our eyes sometimes
and causes inflamination and pain. They remain in the
eye for years, in fact until they are cut out. We do not
all get them, but many of us do. Mr. Reading has one
that troubles him very much, so that at times he is nearly
blind for two or three days at once. He had one cut out
when last in America, but he has another and I suppose
must suffer from it until he goes to America again."
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CHURCH WORK AT GABOON
"Can.no one here take them out?" inquired Lulu.
'.'Yes,!' was the reply, "there are. here and there
among.the people." those who say they can remove them
with a thorn or bent piri; but the eye is a. delicate organ
and these- country doctors are awkward surgeons, and we
do not feel like running any risk."
"How do they get into the eye ? " asked Lulu.
"Some think they, get them by drinking unfiltered
water," answered Mrs.' Reading ; "some, by eating- meat
or fish ¦ that is not well cooked ; some say it is the sting
of a fly, but the truth is, nobody knows ; the first thing
we know the eye is inflamed and painful," and there is the
worm full growri and.just under the skin of one of the lids."
. ... Miss Lulu thought she had a sorry prospect before
her of going home with' her head full of snakes, but
Mrs, Reading assured her the prospect was by no means
certain; to, he realized. "For," said she, "I have been
many .years in this land and have never had one, and you
can well afford to wait and not worry until the trouble
comes." > ".
Returning home, they, went through' Tokols town
and so, up. to Baraka the back way, and a most enjoyable
ride it was.
.:-"' Early on -Friday morning good; old Uncle Adande
came to; Mr. Reading in. a great state of . exciteriient
with the news. that a large manatus was. on. the beach
for • sale,-', and , that it had been lately killed, so that- its
meat ; was still sweet . and good. Adande was at once
sent -.back with the Kru-boys and the .'platform . wagon,
with instructions to . bring the animal " .whatever it
might cost, for these creatures are not numerous in the
neighborhood-, of Gaboon, being closely hunted- for the
sake of their meat.

MPONGWE WOMEN, GABOON

CHURCH WORK AT GABOON
The Band were eager to know what a manatus was,
and Mr. Reading told them it was a warm-blooded animal
belonging to the seal family, but, unlike the seal, it ate
grass and not fish. In all the rivers and lakes of Central
Africa there is a kind of grass that grows in the water
upon which the manatus feeds. This grass has stems'
twenty or more feet in length ; the top is always about
two feet above the water, and to accommodate itself to the
rise and fall of the water, the stem straightens out or curls
up as may be necessary. The manatus swims about and
crops the tender shoots of this grass, and when disturbed
dives and swims away under water, sticking up his nose
occasionally to get breath.
This is the animal which has given rise to the fable
of the mermaid, and no wonder, for when swimming
undisturbed upon the surface of the water, if its head is
turned a little from you, it looks for all the world like a
black woman ; indeed strangers are often afraid to shoot
it on that account. It is a perfectly harmless animal, very
shy, and prefers the most secluded lake-shores and streams,
far from the abode of men.
In about an hour the men were back, singing a wild
song as they came, and with the dead manatus upon the
wagon and a little crowd of sight-seers following. The
animal was at least ten feet in length and weighed about
six hundred pounds ; it was of a dark dull color, smooth
skin, short nose, and had flippers like a whale ; its eyes
looked like a person's, and its appearance about the neck
and shoulders was too human to be agreeable.
The Judge and the Band examined, it with great
interest while Mr. Reading bargained with the owner.
The price demanded was three hundred dollars in goods,
but as this was too much, it was at length agreed that it

CHURCH WORK AT GABOON
should be cut up at once and Mr. Reading and his
people buy all they wished,, and then Adande and the
Kru-boys would take the rest and sell it for all they
could get, the owner going along. The body was then
rolled to the ground and the skin taken off in long strips.
This skin was a full inch in thickness and from it the
cruel whips are made that are used to punish slaves and
women with ; the strips of skin are twisted and nailed
to planks and dried in the sun until they become as
hard as wood. The edges remain sharp, and having a
twist they cut deep into the flesh, especially if the whip
be drawn toward you when the blow is given. It is no
unusual thing for persons to die from the effects of such
a flogging ; nor are the heathen the only ones who use
it, for a few years ago it was not at all uncommon for
white men to tie up their servants and flog them ; now
this practice is almost entirely abolished.
Beneath the skin was a layer of fat, and under that
the flesh, which was white and attractive in appearance ;
a large fine piece was roasted for dinner and the Band
thought it excellent, as well they might, for it is sweet
and of good flavor.
Willie asked how the manatus had been killed, and
the man replied through Adande that he had speared him,
and pointed to a hole in the side showing where the
spear had entered its body. He told Willie he had made
a witch medicine of the powdered bark of a tree, and
spread it upon the water ; that the manatus came to eat
the powder and he was hiding near and threw his spear
into it. The composition of this powder, Mr. Reading
added, was known only to a few families and was by them
carefully kept secret being handed down from father to

CHURCH WORK AT GABOON
son, and these families were the only ones who were per
mitted to hunt this animal.
In the afternoon Mrs. Reading and the girls attended
the regular monthly meeting of the Ladies' Missionary
Society of the Gaboon church. The girls were not a
little surprised to learn that here in savage Africa was a
band of Christian women praying and giving their money
to send the gospel to the heathen. They had a regularly
organized society, with president, secretary and treasurer,
and did their work through committees the same as
similar organizations in civilized lands.
After the devotional exercises and a short talk about
South America, which was the subject for the month,
the Society resolved itself into a sewing circle and sewed
patchwork for quilts, which when finished were sold, and
the money turned into the treasury. Conversation kept
pace with the sewing, and the girls listened to many a
story of African life, for most of these women had been
educated in the mission and could speak English.
Saturday was a very busy day, but by two P. M. the
multitude of business had been disposed of and the
preparations going on in the house indicated that some
thing unusual was to occur; all the chairs from the
dining-room and bed-rooms were brought into the parlor
and arranged in rows, the organ was opened, and it was
evident a meeting of some sort was to take place. Out
in the dining-room the table was covered with cups and
saucers, there was a large bowl-full of sugar, a pitcher of
condensed milk, and two dishes heaped full of sweet
crackers. Mrs. Reading explained that the choir were to
meet and practice, and it was the custom to offer some
light refreshment when they were tired with singing.
At three o'clock they began to come, and in half an hour
203

CHURCH WORK AT GABOON
there were sixteen young men and women present, and
they sang with a hearty good-wili that was comfortable
to hear. Services in Africa are long, and much of the time
is taken up with devotional exercises, which necessitates
a good deal of singing, and this requires a corresponding
preparation. There were four hymns' for the morning,
and seven for the afternoon services, besides two volunta
ries, and this took considerable practicing. No talking
was allowed, and at the end of an hour of steady singing
the vocal chords began to get tired ; then at a signal from
Mr. Reading the house-boys brought in coffee and the
crackers, and the choir enjoyed a short recess. When this
was over, two or ; three new pieces were tried; 'arid .' then
several of the Jubilee songs were sung and thoroughly
enjoyed, especially "John Brown," "Mary and Martha,"
and "We Shall Walk Thro' the Valley;" closing with
"Good-bye, Brothers."
Contrary to the commonly-received idea, the Africans
are not naturally good singers ; the pathos which makes
those Jubilee songs so popular in America, must have" been
born of centuries of enslavement — the wail of the shackled
spirit for freedom — for here in Africa voices are rather
harsh and wild, lacking in sweetness and feeling. Native
songs are very monotonous and with little real music in
them ; those who have come into the church in mature
years do not sing so well as those who have been brought
up in the mission from childhood, and the children of
educated persons, as a rule, do still better.' Part of the
hymns were in the native tongue, and a part-were in
English ; one of the requirements for admission to the
choir is ability to read English.

204

CATHOLIC MISSION, GABOON

CHURCH WORK AT GABOON
It is surprising to see what a hold the English
language has taken along the entire western coast of
Africa ; the natives everywhere desire to learn it, and
if it were not for the severe restrictions by the various
Colonial governments, it would in time be spoken every
where, and take the place of the native languages. It
can no longer be taught in either French or German
territory. After the choir meeting was over, the bell rang, and
the work of giving out " Saturday " was gone through
with. The masons and carpenters receive each week,
seven pounds of beef, seven pounds of hard bread,
seven pounds of rice, seven heads of tobacco, two clay
pipes, a bar of soap, a box of matches,' a plate of salt, and
some tea and sugar in lieu of rum which they get when
they work for the factories. The Kru-men each get a bar
of soap, a head of tobacco, and a box of matches, and
all who have done especially well during the week get
a little piece of salt beef for their Sunday dinner. This
is the only time during the week when kerosene is sold
at retail; and bottles may be seen coming from all
directions for the precious light-giving oil.
Application is often made by people from town for
breadfruit and cocoanuts, for food is never plentiful among
them, and they are often hungry. By the time all these
matters have been attended to it is dark and the mission
ary is thoroughly tired.
The Sabbath was a most delightful day to the Ogowe
Band ; excepting the part of a day they were ashore at
Fernando Po, it was the first real Sabbath they had
enjoyed for a long time. It was a perfect morning ; the
rain that had fallen during the night sparkled in tiny
drops upon every leaf and blade of grass as the rising
205

CHURCH WORK AT GABOON
sun kissed the landscape, and the solemn hush that rested
upon the world was suggestive of the eternal calm of
Him whose day it was.
The house-boys went noiselessly about their work,
and the working part of the force walked slowly about
the yard with their cloths wrapped around them, enjoying
the day of rest which God had given them. At half-past
eight the bell rang, and again at nine, for service is early
on account of the heat. O, how sweet was the sound of
the Sabbath bell ! Our young friends forgot they were
far from home in a heathen land as they walked down the
path to God's house, with its hallowed sound ringing in
their ears.
The church was a bamboo one, and was filled with a
well-dressed and attentive congregation. The visitors
were surprised to see so large a part of the audience so
nicely dressed; many of the women had on silk or
worsted dresses of fashionable make, with the latest style
of Parisian hats, kid gloves, shoes, and parasols. The
men too were, many of them, as well dressed as city young
men at home, even the Kru-men had on coats and panta
loons, and looked as intelligent as the colored citizen of
America. Mr. Reading and Mr. Owondo Lewis occupied the
pulpit and divided the services between them. First there
was the invocation, then a short psalm read in English
and afterward in Mpongwe, an English hymn, and then a
Scripture lesson, hymn, sermon, prayer, and voluntary by
the choir — all in Mpongwe. After this there was the
same in English, then notices, collection, closing hymn
and benediction — the entire service lasting two hours.
The choir sat in front, to the right of the pulpit, and was
led by Mr. Reading. No organ was used as the people
206

CHURCH WORK AT GABOON
are so fond of hearing it they will not sing, or at least will
only sing softly, preferring to listen to the organ.
After the services there were many introductions and
hand-shakings, the people remaining for some time under
the trees in front of the church to converse with one
another before going home. Several of the older Mpongwe
men and women followed Mr. and Mrs. Reading into
the parlor where coffee was passed around, and after a
pleasant chat they left.
Mr. Reading followed Mr. Luddington's plan of
merging the afternoon Sunday-school, and the evening
service, into one service at 4 p. m. and with satisfactory
results. A congregation nearly as large as the morning
one assembled promptly at four o'clock, and the exercises
included seven hymns, two prayers, responsive reading of
the Scripture lesson, catechism, exposition of the lesson
lasting thirty minutes [in reality a sermon], and hearing
of classes by the teachers. This service lasted an hour
and three quarters; like the morning service it was in
both languages.
The church at Gaboon has not grown as rapidly as
could be wished, nor as rapidly as churches in other
parts of the mission field. It has had a great deal to
contend with, and many influences which may not be
mentioned here have held it in check ; still, the services
are well attended and there are some who are the Lord's
true children and who seek to grow in conformity with
Him and in fitness for life in the beautiful home above.

207

Chapter XIV.

NOMBA AND OVENDO POINT.

IT had been decided to make a trip up the. Gaboon
river, and so Monday was spent in making prepa
rations for the journey.- There are, no hotels in
, this part of Africa' except one at Banana at, the",
mouth of the Congo river, nor houses of entertainment
of any kind;; when ' travelers wish to visit the country
they must depend on private hospitality; or - take' their
provisions with- them:
Men who have, been long on the coast, and who" have
traveled much, have learned to. exist for a time on. native
food, but new-comers cannot do so, and they must be well
provided with canned . provisions.; moreover; it is, not
always easy to .get even the few things 'the. country does
produce; often enough it happens that when," after a
long, hard day in. the hot; sun, a. town is reached, . not a
plantain or a cassava root is to be obtained, at any price.
Strange as it may seem, Africa with all its richness of
vegetation, is as good a country : to starve in as may be
found anywhere in the world. It is not safe to depend
upon getting supplies by the way, even for your men, and a
20S

GABOON RIVER VILLAGE

NOMBA AND OVENDO POINT
wise traveler will always carry rice and meat with him as
a reserve in case of need. In addition to food for himself
and men, the traveler must take his bedding, if he wishes
to use any, change of clothes, medicines, cooking utensils ;
and calico, soap, tobacco and other articles, to use as money
for current expenses ; and guns and ammunition if he
feels afraid or wishes to do any hunting.
It is a disputed point whether fire-arms are needed in
traveling in Africa ; if there is a large quantity of
goods in the traveler's possession, they are needed ; or,
if he feels afraid, they will be needed, not for use,
but to bolster up his courage ; for it will not do to go
among these savages with a half-frightened look. A
brave heart, and a knowledge of the language, and of the
working of the native mind, with a fertility of resource
under varying circumstances, is worth far more to help a
stranger on his way, than all the weapons that can be
carried ; always provided there is not a great quantity of
goods to excite cupidity.
In the present instance it was decided to do a little
hunting if opportunity offered, as the Judge had brought
out a beautiful little rifle which he was anxious to try ; in
addition to this Mr. Reading borrowed a double-barreled,
breach-loading shot-gun from one of his friends on the
beach. The French authorities will permit anyone to go out
on the river for a ride if no goods are taken, provided the
matter is first reported at the police station, but where
goods, even in small quantities for current needs, are
taken, regular cleararice papers must be made out and
duly signed at the custom-house and vised at the police
station — and the same must be done when the boat
returns. This had been attended to on Monday, and on
xiv 209

NOMBA AND OVENDO POINT
Tuesday morning all was in readiness for the start. The
girls were to remain with Mrs. Reading as some of them
were not very well and they were not yet fully rested from
the long ocean voyage.
There are two very nice boats belonging to the
Gaboon station, the "Christine'' and the "Minnesota,"
and it was thought best to take them both. The Kru-
boys carried the luggage to the beach and put the boats
in the water while Mr. Reading went to the police station
to show his papers. Good old Uncle Adande went along
in the capacity of navigator, for he is a famous boatman
and always knows just what is best to be done in any
emergency. The girls came down to the beach to see the
party off, and after a little delay they started.
It was a cloudy morning, and very nice to be out
upon the water ; the tide had just turned to flood, and
under the strong strokes of the Kru-boys the boats went
ahead at a good speed. The rocks at low tide compel a
boat to keep out pretty well, and this gave a wider view
ashore than if they had skirted the beach ; the view was
lovely, with the broad river on one side and the town and
hills on the other. By and by the town was left behind
and the forest came down to the shore line.
Canoes were passed, some laden with plantains for
sale in Gaboon, and others with palm-leaf mats for house-
roofing. The land-breeze was blowing down the river
and the canoes were coming under sail, and such old sails
as they were too, made of all colors of calico sewed
together, looking, as the boys said, "like Joseph's coat,
only more ragged and dirty." It is only near the coast
that the negro uses a sail, above the tide-water region
canoes are propelled solely by paddles.

NOMBA AND OVENDO POINT
An hour's ride brought them to Nomba, a small
village about three miles from Gaboon ; here a creek
comes in, but there was not water enough on the sand-bar
at its mouth for the boats to cross yet, so Mr. Reading,
the Judge, and Adande went up to the village to make
arrangements for spending the night, leaving the boys to
watch the boats and run about the beach after crabs.
Nomba has no king, but Loembe Morris, a rich trader, is
the most influential man.
Mr. Morris had been educated at the American
Mission and was a really intelligent man ; fortunately he
was at home, and was delighted to learn that he was to
have so many visitors in the evening ; he at once placed
his house at Mr. Reading's disposal and suggested that
whatever in the boats was not needed for the day, had
better be brought up to his house where they would be safe,
and this was done. He thought the idea of going up the
creek for a picnic in the woods was a good one, and
offered to go along. By the time the bedding and extra
provisions were in the house, the water had risen so that
the boats could be dragged over the bar, and they came
up to the town landing and the gentlemen got in. Mr.
Reading, the Judge and Loembe went in the "Christine,"
and Adande with the boys in the "Minnesota"; Mr.
Reading gave Adande the gun for the use of the boys,
and the Judge had his rifle, so each party was armed. The
boys were in a high state of excitement, expecting no end
of strange adventures, and who can wonder that they
did so, for there is a weirdness about African river travel
that fascinates the mind and prepares it to believe that
almost any unusual thing might occur.
The creek was about forty yards wide, and for the
first two miles was bordered by mangroves ; as the tide

NOMBA AND OVENDO POINT
was yet scarcely half-full, many of the interlacing roots
were exposed, and these had on them the small oysters
which give rise to the oft-repeated story of oysters grow
ing on trees. Oysters cannot grow unless they have some
solid substance to which they can attach themselves ; in
the open ocean there are rocks and stones on the bottom,
but here in these muddy creeks there is little else than the
mangrove roots, and so they must take hold of these. The
African oysters are very small, having rather dark-colored
meat, and are thought to be unwholesome because of the
dirty water in which they live.
An hour after leaving Nomba the character of the
vegetation changed ; pandanus, palms and other water-
loving plants were mingled with the mangroves, and in
another half-hour the latter entirely disappeared. Here
they met a new plant, the papyrus, the flags or bulrushes
spoken of in the Bible, among which Moses was hidden
on the banks of the Nile. It is a beautiful and interesting
plant, with a smooth, slender stem, six or eight feet high,
surmounted with a tuft or head two feet in diameter, of
very fine, dark green leaves. The main stem of the plant
creeps along the river-bottom, rooting at every joint, and
sending up these long, slender steins which rise above the
water. There is a small bird somewhat like a Baltimore
oriole that builds its nest in these papyrus heads, and is
rocked with its little ones to sleep by every passing breeze.
Other birds were now seen, and the boys were on the look
out for some game. Upon the topmost branches of some
of the larger trees great white fish-eagles were seen calmly
surveying the watery jungle beneath them ; they appeared
to know the range of a gun, but presently the Judge tried
his rifle on one and succeeded in bringing it down— his

NOMBA AND OVENDO POINT
first game in Africa. The Christine turned its prow into
the tangled growth, and a Kru-boy clambered ashore and
got the bird.
A little further up the stream the banks became
higher and the upland forest began to give the country a
more inviting look ; on rounding a turn Adande spied
two monkeys in a palm-tree helping themselves to the
rich, ripe nuts. The boys were all in a flutter to get one
of them, but the monkeys heard the noise of the oars and
jumped out of the palm-tree in a hurry; they did not
descend to the ground, but leaped from one tree to the
outermost branches of the next, ran along the limbs and
jumped to another tree, and so away off in the forest out
of harm's way.
Mr. Reading now gave the order for the oars to be
taken in and paddles used instead ; the Judge was stationed
in the bow of the Christine, and Adande aud Frank in
the bow of the Minnesota, and one boat took one side of
the creek, and the other boat the other side. The paddles
made no noise, and they had not gone a quarter of a mile
when another monkey was seen, a real hungry fellow who
paid all attention to his eating, and as his back was toward
the boats he did not see them and the Judge brought him
down very neatly. He was a fine fellow, with a long tail
and reddish grey fur.
Soon after this, a flock of parrots was seen on a tree
a short distance ahead, and a little way back from the
water ; Frank wanted to try his hand and so the Minne
sota was run ashore and he got out and tried to make his
way quietly to the tree where they were feeding. It was
no easy matter to get through the undergrowth, but he
was a plucky boy and presently he was near enough for a
shot, and to his great delight brought down a fine fellow.
213

NOMBA AND OVENDO POINT
He picked up his bird and made his way back to the boat,
proud and happy, but with hands and clothes somewhat
torn by the briers. The parrot was greatly admired by
the boys ; it was of a grey color and had a bright red tail ;
Adande said it was good to eat, and it was decided to have
it for dinner.
About a mile farther on, just as the Christine was
rounding a turn in the creek, the Judge saw a beautiful
little deer drinking at the water-side ; he motioned with
his hand for the paddlers to stop, and with a well-directed
shot secured the prize.
Near where the deer was killed was a nice open place
beneath a shady tree, suitable for a camping-ground, and
it was agreed to land here and have dinner as all were
hungry and the sun was getting hot; the boats were
drawn up beside the bank and made fast to the bushes,
and the cooking pots, plantains and other food were
brought ashore.
Here a new difficulty presented itself — there was no
good place to sit down. There is no grass or carpet of
moss in the woods of Africa, and the ground is usually
damp and unpleasant; the bedding had been left at
Nomba, and all that could be done was to have the Kru-
boys gather plenty of the broad leaves that grow abun
dantly, and make lounging places of them. When this
was done, fires were built and the kettle put on to boil
water for tea ; plantains were given to the men for their
dinner, and also the monkey and eagle ; Frank held on to
his parrot, and the deer was reserved for the white folks
and Adande and Loembe. The game was taken off a
little distance to be skinned and prepared, and while
preparations were being made for cooking, the Judge and
the boys lay down on the leaves to rest, after having first
214

NOMBA AND OVENDO POINT
drunk a cup of tea. It takes longer to get dinner ready
in the forest than one would think, and it was two hours
before the Kru-boys announced the welcome fact that it
was prepared. A part of the deer had been cut up in
pieces and stewed in an iron pot, and two nice long joints
had been cooked by running sticks through them and
toasting them over the coals; plantains had been boiled,
and there was bread and butter that Mrs. Reading had
provided. It was in many ways delightful to eat here in the
wild woods, but after all it was not so handy to reach
down to the ground for every mouthful of food, and the
beys began to realize what handy things tables and chairs
are : the greatest difficulty seemed to be to know where
tc put one's legs, they were always in the way and it was
all the boys could do to keep from knocking something
over with their feet. Mr. Reading told them he once
had a nice table made with movable top and folding
legs, but he found it was too much trouble to carry it
with him, as food and other necessaries took up what
little room there was in the canoe, so that he left it at
home after one trip.
They had only begun eating when a shot was heard
in the forest and Mr. Reading turned to Adande to inquire
what it was, then it was discovered that Adande and
Loembe were gone, their absence had not been noticed
before; the shot-gun was gone too, and it was evident
these two old men had gone off to see what they could do
in the way of hunting. In a few minutes Adande's voice
was heard calling the Kru-boys, and then it was certain
some animal had been killed ; the Kru-boys hurried into
the bush in the direction of the voice and presently
returned dragging a wild pig which Adande had shot.
215

NOMBA AND OVENDO POINT
.This pig. was: different. from any the Judge or the
boys, had: ever- seen,; it wasof a reddish color, like a breed
of hogs in America called "Jersey Reds, and had yery.loug
ears that lay back upon its shoulders and ended in tufts
of long hair ; upon the face were two large warts, and the
body was not so-fat and round as is usual with the domestic
hog. The boys greeted the advent info the camp of the
dead pig with, a cheer,. and were too .'excited, to care much
for dinner; as for Adande and Loembe,, they looked happy
alid satisfied, and while they said nothing it was, evident
they, had noted the fact that they fiad secured the biggest
game. After the men had eaten and enjoyed a good smoke,
the dead pig and cooking utensils were put in the boats
and the bows turned down stream ; the tide had just begun
to ebb and so was in their favor, and they went along at
a lively pace, reaching Nomba at five.o'clock. The people
of Nomba were glad to see them back, and especially; to
see the pig, for in Africa,- whenever, a mail has secured
fish or game, he cannot keep it all to himself but nirist
divide it with his neighbors, and. so when the villagers
saw the pig they knew they would have a piece of meat
for supper. Loembe made Mr. Reading and his friends at home
in his house; it was a comfortable house, built of boards
raised on posts five feet above the ground, like the
mission houses at Baraka ; Adande and the Kru-boys had
a bamboo house set apart for them. In the evening Mr.
Reading and Adande held a preaching service and when
that was over the villagers got up a dance in honor of the
distinguished visitors that had come to their town.
Men and Women do not dance together as in civilized
lands, but in parallel lines facing each other, the men on
216

AN AFRICAN BELLE

NOMBA AND OVENDO POINT
one side and the women on the other. There are several
kinds of dances, most of which have been interdicted by
the Church because connected in one way or another with
heathen practices ; simple dancing does no harm, but the
dancers, like those of Christian lands, too often resort to
strong drink to increase the excitement and consequent
enjoyment, and this of course can only be condemned.
After the people had danced an hour, the Judge
thanked them for the compliment they had intended and
Mr. Reading distributed some tobacco among them and
sent them to their houses and told them to go to sleep.
Loembe, the Judge and Mr. Reading had each a good bed,
and the boys rolled themselves in their blankets and slept
on the floor.
Wednesday morning every one was up bright and
early ; it was a little cool and a slight mist hung over the
creek and the flooded land near it ; the people of the town
felt the cold, and moved about with their cloths wrapped
tightly around them ; and yet it was not really cold, for
the thermometer registered 86° Fahr., but the early
morning air always seems chilly until the sun has dis
pelled the night mists.
While our friends were drinking coffee the Kru-boys
were putting the luggage in the boats and by a little after
seven they had said "good-bye" to Loembe and the good
people of Nomba and were on their way up the river.
Several fishing canoes were passed and the boys were
greatly interested in watching the men throw the nets.
These nets are circular at the bottom and cone-shaped,
running up to a point at the top, to which a long cord is
attached ; around the bottom is a row of lead sinkers to
make the net settle down in the water. Two men go out
in a canoe together, one sitting in the stern to paddle, and
217

NOMBA AND OVENDO POINT
the other standing in the bow to throw the net. The fish
are mostly of a kind that swim near the surface of the
water ; some are much like our herring, and others are
like mullet, while a few are large ones like bass and sea-
trout. The fisherman gathers the net on his left arm,
holding the coil of heavy cord to which it is fastened, in
his hand ; the lower edge of the net is taken in his teeth,
and a part of it in his right hand. There he stands in
the bow of the canoe awaiting his opportunity while his
companion noiselessly propels the canoe to the place where
the unsuspecting fishes are playing about; when the
proper moment has come, the net is thrown and falls all
spread out flat upon the water with a loud splash.
One would naturally think, if the fish had a grain of
sense, they would get out from under the net and make
their escape, but for some unaccountable reason they do
not, and the sinkers draw the net down in the water until
the outer edge has come together in a bunch in the middle
like a bag that is closed with a shirr-string, and the fish are
enclosed in it. The fisherman now drags the net endways
into the canoe, knocks the fish on the head with a short
club carried for the purpose, shakes them out into the
canoe, and gathers up his net for another throw. It was
very fascinating to watch them and the boats remained
near the canoes nearly an hour to give the boys a good
opportunity to see this novel method of fishing.
A few miles above Nomba the grass fields came down
to the water's edge, and several little clusters of houses
were seen, showing there were plantations near by. The
people of Gaboon, like the wealthier inhabitants of our
cities, have their country places to which they retire in
June, July, and August, which is the "season" here as
well as in America. They spend their time hunting,
2lS

NOMBA AND OVENDO POINT
fishing, gardening, and making mats for roofing their
houses. When the rains begin they go back to town and
leave their country places in charge of slaves, with usually
one of their wives as overseer ; these slaves tend the crop
and if there is more food than they can eat they take it
to the owner in town to help support his family.
A little after ten o'clock they landed at Ovendo
Point, a bold grassy headland that stands at a break in the
shore-line where it sweeps around to form a deep bay.
There is a good-sized town on the flat at the foot of the
hill, where Mr. Reading had stationed one of his Bible-
readers, a young man named Igui [E-goo-wee]. The
people came down to the landing to salute the strangers
and after the luggage was taken from the boats they were
anchored a short distance from the beach and then all
went up to the village, the Kru-boys carrying the things.
News had spread through the town that strangers had
arrived, and they were gazed at as they passed along, after
the usual village fashion. The chief of the village placed
his house at the disposal of the white folks and Adande
and the Kru-boys found places in a house near by. The
little school Igui was teaching had its session quite broken
up by the advent of the strangers, and the young man
came promptly to pay his respects and hear the news.
When a traveling party enters an African village it
is escorted to some public place, generally a house in the
middle of the street built for a lounging-place and central
news depot, and after the principal persons of the town
have paid their respects, one of the strangers tells who
they are, what are the objects of the journey and the
incidents that have' occurred by the way ; a crowd gathers
round to listen and express their approval or disapproval
by various exclamations. When the story is finished
219

NOMBA AND OVENDO POINT
houses are provided for their accommodation and they
.settle.do.wn as. a part of the population for the. time they
¦are to stay..  .. '.  _.....' !.' c
, ... - When Mr. Reading and. . his. friends . were: "seated,
Adande gave a : short history of the journey, not forget
ting to tell of the death of the pig, and also explained
cwho the Judge arid the, boys were, and why they .came
to, Africa; ; he . elided ¦ by .saying they had started ; early
and the white folks were tired and hungry. This hint
fiad; a good effect, the. people scattered to discuss the
¦strangers,, and; the chief invited his guests to come in the
house and lie down; if they felt so inclined, which they
were very.glad to do. It takes but little exertion in the
African climate to make one tired, and it is always best
anyway to rest, not.sleep, in the middle of the. day.
Soon after the Judge and ' the boys had retired,
Adande came in to report .that the chief had . brought as
a present two chickens and two. bunches of plantains,
and Mr. Reading went out to receive them, arid also to
give out the rations to the men and to see about, dinner.
The food question in Africa is an important one for both
the master and his people ; if your men are well fed, and
especially if they have enough meat. to. satisfy them, they
will do almost anything for you, and it is always best for
the master to give every man's daily rations into his own
hand, as it is. sure to save much; quarreling.
After dinner Igui came in and. gave a report of his
¦work; his little school was prospering, having now twen
ty-two scholars, and the people fairly attentive upon the
. Sabbath services ; they were all anxious to have a church
. built, arid were ready to do all they were able to assist in
its erection.

AN AFRICAN KING

NOMBA AND OVENDO POINT
About four o'clock Adande and the boys went out
for a stroll over the hills ; they took the gun with them
thinking they might be able to shoot something. They
climbed to the top of the Cape and were rewarded by a
wide view of the river. It was so far to the opposite
shore that all they could see was a low line of dark green.
Up river were two large islands thickly covered with trees,
and around to the left was a large bay into which the
Ikoi river emptied ; on the farther shores of the bay are the
first cannibal villages, a people the boys had often heard
of, but. were just a little afraid to meet. When they had
rested a little and enjoyed the view they walked back
along the ridge and kept a good lookout for game, but
they were too near the village and none was seen.
On their way back, Frank was tempted to try his
skill on a flock of parrots that flew overhead, and to the
surprise of Adande succeeded in bringing one down ; it
was not dead, but had a wing broken and was only cap
tured after a lively skirmish. Parrots have such strong
bills they can bite very hard, and a wild one, especially
when wounded, is a savage bird. Frank wished to keep
the parrot until its wing healed and then take it to
America with him, and this he succeeded in doing,
although it was a great deal of trouble and bother. The
boys had serious trouble when they reached the village in
tying on a bandage so as to hold the broken wing in place,
but they succeeded after being severely bitten.
In the evening Mr. Reading and Adande held a
preaching service, as they had done the night before at
Nomba, and then Judge McGee had a long talk with the
old men about their country, customs and superstitions ;
they insisted that the God who made the white man was
not the God who made the black man, and that the white

NOMBA AND OVENDO POINT
man's fashions were no doubt the best for him, but they
did not suit the black man's condition and therefore it
was unreasonable to expect him to adopt them. They
thought there were a great multitude of spirits every
where in the air about us, but all invisible to mortal eyes ;
and that these spirits were responsible for all natural phe
nomena such as clouds, storm and rain, and that they also
were constantly -interfering in the affairs of men. These
spirits were much to be feared, for in addition to being
powerful they could work unseen and so their efforts could
not be counteracted. Besides these free spirits, there were
the disembodied souls of men, who lingered about their
former habitations, and were able to do much harm
to those they disliked. The old chief thought the best
way to deal with these was to drive them out of town, and
this he said he always did whenever any one died, by
firing off plenty of guns.
The Judge asked him if the souls would not come
back again, and the chief answered that he prevented
this by the powerful fetiches which he hung up on poles
at the entrance of the village. Long and earnest was the
conversation, and the Judge was surprised to see how well
the old African held his own in the argument. On
Thursday morning our friends left the kind people of
Ovendo and after a pleasant ride reached Baraka, hot and
tired, and glad to have a good place for resting.

Chapter XV.

PICNIC EXCURSION TO SANDY POINT.

^R. and Mrs. Reading made up their minds
to give their guests a picnic, as the bright
summer weather was quite suggestive of
pleasant days spent in the woods and by
the sea-shore in the home-land, and they wished to make
the visit of their friends as agreeable as possible.
To be sure, it was some work to get ready, but in
this world every desirable result requires effort, and plenty
of it, and besides, there were many willing hands to help ;
so it was decided to start on Tuesday morning of the week
following the trip to Ovendo. Mr. Reading's part was to
secure the boats and crews and make all the business
arrangements, while in the house the ladies baked and
prepared all sorts of good things and got together bed
ding and other comforts ; for the intention was to cross
the river and remain away two nights. To be sure, the dis
tance was not great, but the rate of locomotion was slow,
for the improved methods of travel have not yet been
engrafted upon the heathendom of this sunny land.
223

PICNIC EXCURSION TO SANDY POINT
On Monday morning Kamanandi was sent across the
river to give notice that Mr. Reading and his friends were
coming, so that accommodations might be provided ; and
, all the necessary permits for the embarkation were secured
frcm the government officials. Early Tuesday morning
the household were astir, and after a cup. of coffee and
some bread and butter, the Kru-boys came in arid carried
all the food and luggage to the beach. Mr. Reading had
already gone down some time before, and when, Mrs.
Reading and her guests arrived he had two boats iri the
water ready for. them [one of these . had been borrowed
from a trader, for the Christine was too small], and the
big surf-boat was at anchor just .beyond the breakers, in
which the luggage was to be sent direct to King William's
town where the night was to be spent.
Several of the church people came down to the beach
to bid them good-bye, and the police officer walked over
to wish them "bon voyage." Embarkation through. the
surf at Gaboon is always somewhat trying, but at length
they were off and the three boats made quite a little fleet;
the land-breeze was blowing gently arid, the sails' Vere
hoisted, giving the boats a more easy motion than oars,
and making it easier for the crews.
The Gaboon river is so wide that the first hour's sail
ing seemed to make no. impression on the opposite shore ;
then presently it crept a little nearer, objects: began to
take some definite shape, and by the" end of another hoUr
they felt that they were across although they were still
half a mile from shore. The surf-boat was a slaw sailer
and had fallen a long distance behind; it was heading for
King William's town which is some distance up theriver,
and, leaving it to take care of itself,; the. two gigs: ran

224

FRENCH TRADING FACTORY, GABOON

PICNIC EXCURSION TO SANDY POINT
before the wind and headed for Sandy Point at the mouth
of the river.
The south shore of the Gaboon river is flat and
sandy and the deep water comes right up to the beach ;
the Point, too, keeps off the ocean swells and the water is
more quiet than on the northern shore, but just where the
river current meets the tide there is considerable commo
tion and it is not always safe for a boat or canoe. Mr.
Reading thought best to land just inside the cape and
walk down the beach to the woods, only a mile away,
while the boats came round at their leisure.
It was now ten o'clock, but it was a little cloudy and
the sun not so hot as usual, so that here on the ocean
beach it was delightful to walk ; shells of several varieties.
were abundant, and the boys had jolly times chasing the
great sand-crabs that ran about in considerable numbers..
As Lizzie could not keep up with the rest, Hattie and1
Gertrude, two members of the choir who had come along
to assist Mrs. Reading, carried her by turns. There was
abundant time and no occasion to hurry and the picnicers
took it slow and easy, giving the young people ample
opportunity to race around and enjoy themselves ; and in
truth it was delightful here, the great waves rolled in so
grandly and broke in foam upon the sandy shore, while
the duties of active life having been left behind, the mind
was free to enjoy the beauties of nature.
A mile below the Point there is a rocky headland
covered with a thick growth of palms and other trees, and.
here the party sat down in the cool shade and rested until
the boats came up and landed the dinner baskets. A_
short reef of rocks extended out from the headland andfi
made a little sheltered bay where the boats were anchored..
The Kru-boys carried the baskets to a nice shady place
XV 225

PICNIC EXCURSION TO SANDY POINT
among the rocks, where dinner was prepared under Mrs.
Reading's/ directions by Hattie and Gertrude, assisted by
the girls. The Kru-boys cooked their plantains at a little dis
tance, and also boiled water to make tea. In hot weather
at home we think we must drink ice-water to cool us, but
there is no ice in Western Africa nor even cold water ;
drinking water is always warm, or at least tepid, and hot
drinks are used instead. Not only, are hot drinks in uni
versal .use, but those who have been long on the coast
follow the native custom of eating quantities of chilli pep
pers. This to a northern mind would seem to be highly
injurious,- but the opposite is true, and riot only are pep
pers wholesome as food, but they are an excellent remedy
in fevers. ,The power of the sun which stimulates vege*
table growth into unwonted activity, has a depressing
effect upon animal life, and stimulants, are demanded.
Alcohol in every form,' experience has proved to be injur
ious, and so also is quinine though in less degree, but pep
pers in any reasonable' quantity do no harm and impart a
a grateful glow to the system.'
This headland by the sea was a better camping place
than the gentlemen had found in the forest on the Nomba
creek,, for there were stones of various sizes "for seats, and
some little patches of grass here and there did very well
as lounging places. Inland' was. a wide prairie with
clumps of trees here arid there giving it a park like
appearance; this lovely prairie on the one side and the
blue sea on the other, made a very attractive picture. In
the trees over their heads' little birds were flitting about,
and in the centre of the grove parrots were rwhistling and
talkirig-to one another as they fed upon "the ripe palm-
nuts.

226

'--' : :"'- . ,. ... -

**

PICNIC EXCURSION TO SANDY POINT
Dinner was over, and the picnicers were taking
things as easy and comfortable as possible and engaged in
quiet conversation, when a rustling was heard in the
bushes, and, looking up, there stood a native African,
pure and simple — a chimpanzee ! He was a fine fellow,
standing nearly three feet in height, and surveyed the
pale-faced party with a puzzled look. To the frightened
girls he appeared the size of a giant big enough to swallow
them all, and they screamed in a manner befitting the
occasion ; the boys were quite as much frightened as the
girls, and even little Lizzie, who ought to have known
better, was panic-stricken as well as the rest.
The young folks lost no time in scrambling to their
feet and running away, upsetting some of the dishes and
breaking them as they did so, and the chimpanzee, equally
alarmed at all this outcry, scampered into the woods, glad
to be able to save his life. The Kru-boys took in the situa
tion, and seizing a machete which they had used to cut
fireTWOod, hurried after the intruder ; but they could not
catch him and he got away, to their sorrow, for to them
it meant the loss of just so much fresh meat.
This incident broke up the picnic and although it was
still early in the afternoon there was nothing to do but
pack up and go. The sea-breeze was now coming in, and
with umbrellas to keep off the sun, the walk to the Point
was enjoyable ; here the boats met them, and they got in
and sailed up the river to King William's town. The vil
lagers saw the boat coming and were waiting at the land
ing to welcome the visitors ; King William was there too ;
he usually resides at his plantation, but when Kama-
nandi brought the word that his friend, Mr. Reading,
was coming, he had hurried into town.

227

PICNIC EXCURSION TO SANDY POINT
Ntyndorema, the cook, had come with the surf-boat
and he had gotten things ready to get supper whenever it
might be needed ; when he saw the boat coining so early
he had prepared tea, and this was served as soon as the
party had reached the King's house and taken seats.
After the tea Adande gave an account of the day's occur
rences and explained who the visitors were; when he
told about the chimpanzee they all declared it was a witch
or it would never have shown itself to the white man in
such a manner.
King William II. is a man about fifty years" of age,
having had a good education, and is quiet and pleasant in
his manner. His father, or Old King William, as he is
called, was a wonderful man in his day ; a man of strong
character, shrewd, far-sighted and a thorough politician.
He died a few years ago, full of years and honors. In his
last years he was much troubled with tooth-ache and his
people declared that he was so old he was cutting his
fourth set of teeth. He possessed a hundred wives and a
great many slaves; when dying he expressed the wish
that none of these might be killed over his grave, but it
is commonly believed that some were put to death secretly.
His family would esteem it a deep disgrace for so great a
man as he to enter the spirit-world without attendants.
Gilt crowns, sceptres, gold chains and other valuable pres
ents, were given him by some of the governments of
Europe, and these are now in the possession of his son.
When the conference was over Mrs. Reading and the
girls went to the house appointed for them, which was
built of boards and elevated on posts in the usual style;
there were three or four beds made by native carpenters,
and for the rest beds had been made on the floor. Over
all these were mosquito nets made of bright-colored calico,
228

PICNIC EXCURSION TO SANDY POINT
for on this side of the river there are a number of mosqui
toes, while on the north side there are scarcely any.
All the natives of Central Africa, except the very
poorest, sleep under these nets whether there are mosqui
toes or not ; when foreign cloth is not available they are
made of the yellow grass-cloth mats manufactured in
many parts of the interior; these mats are so closely
woven as scarcely to admit any air passing through them,
and how the people keep from smothering is somewhat
hard to understand.
Most of the women of the town came in to have a chat
and take a good look at the young ladies ; the hair excited
their wonder more than anything else, especially its
length. The wool of the negro not infrequently attains
the length of ten to twelve inches, but as it is usually
matted up or tied close to the head, the length is not
apparent, and a white lady's hair, especially if she let it
hang down, seems to her black sisters very wonderful
indeed. These African mothers told of some of the trials
of their home-life, but as it was all through an interpreter
the conversation was not as satisfactory as if they could
have expressed themselves in English. Making allowance
for the difference in country, race and national customs, it
was wonderful to learn that the little things that trouble
ns and disturb our equanimity were the very trials of
which these poor African mothers complained. With
them as with us, a kind word and a little generous sym
pathy — things that cost us only a slight effort — are highly
valued and do much to dispel the gloom from the mind,
and brighten and cheer the spirit.
After supper the town's people were called together
and Mr. Reading and Adande held a preaching service ;
then the ladies retired to their house, while the gentle-
229

PICNIC EXCURSION TO SANDY POINT
men and the boys arranged to go. fishing. King William
had a long seine or fishing net that some one had imported
for him from England ; this great net was put up in the
stern of one canoe, and another took the fishing party to
the scene of operations which was down toward Sandy
Point. When the fishing-ground was reached the second
canoe was drawn ashore and the visitors landed ; the rope
attached to the land end of the net was taken by the
shore party and the net was gradually payed out in a half
circle, and then the crew pulled slowly for shore drawing
their end of the net after them. The boys eagerly
watched the sport and followed closely the land party who
walked slowly along the beach as the net drifted with the
tide ; the Judge lingered somewhat behind, for to him the
half naked fishermen on this wild coast presented a scene
more attractive than the mere securing of fish.
The moon, obscured by broken cloud masses that
drifted to the northeast, threw a fitful light over the men,
and his mind went back eighteen hundred years to those
midnight toilers on the Sea of Galilee, who saw by the
first dawning light One who inquired of them, "Children,
have ye any meat?" and he thought of the light that
now was dawning on this dark land, a "light to lighten
the Gentiles," brought from heaven by that divine One
who in the early morning of the olden days trod the
shores of Galilee closely watching his disciples as they
fished, and he wondered if that same Almighty One
might not be treading the shores of this far off land
watching His toilers as they sought to catch its people in
the gospel net.
As Peter and his companions toiled through the length
ening hours of the night, they knew not that Jesus was
230

PICNIC EXCURSION TO SANDY POINT
watching from the shore, noting all their efforts, their suc
cesses, their failures, and who can tell if He is watching
His workers now as surely and as lovingly as He did
through the night by Galilee ?
The reverie was broken by the shouts of the boys
over the fish as the "bag" of the net was drawn ashore,
and the Judge hurried forward to see the game. The
haul had been fairly successful, and the boys were in high
glee, more especially as some of the fish were of strange
forms, quite different from any they had before seen.
King William and his men were in good spirits and
made ready the net for another haul, and so continued
until midnight, when the net was drawn in the canoe and
all hands returned to town pretty well tired out ; there
was a goodly pile of fish as they all lay together but when
divided it did not seem so much after all.
The next morning there were fresh fish for breakfast
and they were good too; Ntyndorema cooked them by
running a green stick lengthwise through them and then
toasting them over the coals ; if they fall in the ashes a
few times before they are done, as they are quite likely to
do, it makes no difference, the ashes are easily brushed off
with the hand and fish taste better when they have the
flavor of the wood through them.
The gentlemen concluded to walk out to the planta
tions, but the ladies thought best to remain in the vil
lage, as walking across country in Africa is not a very
suitable occupation for them. After the gentlemen had
gone, Mrs. Reading took the girls to see the operation of
making eguma [e-goo-mah], which is the bread of the
sea-coast tribes.
It is made from the roots of the cassava, of which
there are two varieties, the sweet, and the bitter ; the latter

PICNIC EXCURSION TO SANDY POINT
is- more generally used as it will grow on poorer ground,
and yield a larger and surer crop. It contains a poisonous
juice which may.' be dispelled by heat, or by soaking it in
water for several days as was done by the Kamerun
women, and is the plan adopted in making eguma.
Lying so long in water causes the roots to ferment, and
they do not smell good by any ineans, as the girls soon
discovered ; . these roots when taken - from the water are
peeled and grated and -then boiled, which thickens the
mass much as boiling thickens starch ; it is then rolled in
leaves and is ready to be eaten. In this condition it will
save for a* few days only and then a fresh supply must be
made. It is pretty poor stuff and neither attractive in
taste or smell ; one of its advantages in the mind of an
African is'that it is indigestible and remains a long time
upon the stomach, giving a sense of fullness ; they always
complain when they eat rice that they get hungry so soon
again. On the contrary, the Kru-boys prefer rice, and it
must be the more nourishing food "of- the two, for they are
a better developed people than the cassava eating tribes.
Another product of this root is farina, much made
by the Camriia -and other tribes south- of Gaboon ; in
making farina the grated root is dried by " heat, and the
product is hard, dry grains that will, keep longer than the
eguma; but it requires: an African taste' to .appreciate
either of these foods, and strangers would soon lose their
health if 'they attempted to live oU them. : " -¦:
When "missionaries first came to Africa tliey thought
they ouglitto identify themselves the more closely with
the country by- eating its products and thus in a measure
make Africans of themselves, but the plan did not succeed ;
nor will the idea of "self-supporting missions", at the pres
ent day be a success in the equatorial regions. Farther
232

-^__

#Wt .! C'P

m, s\0

. *•

»**

PALM OIL READY FOR SHIPMENT

PICNIC EXCURSION TO SANDY POINT
south., where the climate and natural products are more
nearly those of the temperate zone, missionaries may live
on the produce of the soil, but everywhere in the tropics
foreigners will be compelled to import a good share of
their food.
In one of the houses an old woman was seen weaving
a mat, such as are used everywhere for bedding. The
African does not use a mattress, or a tick filled with straw,
husks, or feathers, for a bed, as we do ; but he uses one or
more thin mats according to how rich he may be, and
these are spread on the bedstead, or on the ground, as may
be convenient. These mats are made from the leaves of the Panda-
nus, or screw-palm, and are five or six feet long by three
wide. The leaves are gathered and made into strips half
an inch wide and as long as the leaf will allow ; these
strips after being dried are dyed various colors and are then
ready to be woven into the web. A frame is used, and
the operation is one that resembles both weaving and
plaiting ; the result is a closely woven mat of pretty design
and that will almost hold water. It is a great deal of
work to make these mats and they are highly prized ; for
eigners too like them, using them as rugs on the floor.
The so-called "grass-cloth" used for mosquito-nets
and by the poorer people for clothing, is made in the far
interior from the cuticle of the unopened palm-leaf of
the white palm. This cuticle is stripped off as we would
take the skin from the rhubarb stalks, and is an eighth of
an inch wide and three or four feet long ; in drying it
turns a straw color, and this deepens with age to old gold.
These narrow strips are then woven in a regular loom
such as is used for hand weaving in our own land, and
the cloth thus made has a regular texture and much
233

PICNIC EXCURSION TO SANDY POINT
resembles, except in color, the linen woven by our grand
mothers. It has such a close smooth surface that flowers
and other figures may be painted on it the same as on
canvas ; if a little attention were paid to the matter, these
mats might be made a desirable article of export.
The girls were here initiated into the art of eating
African candy ; this is neither more nor less than sugar
cane. The African people do not know what sugar is,
and of course do not use it, although when brought to
their attention they are at once fond of it ; but they raise
sugar cane, and the juice of it is to an African maiden
what caramels and " French mixtures" are to an American
one. To eat sugar cane aright is an art ; the cane is cut in
convenient lengths, and then with a piece of cane in the
left hand, and a knife in her right, an Mpongwe girl, with
a few deft strokes, will cut away the rind and shape the
juicy interior into convenient mouthfuls, cutting, chew
ing, and enjoying herself in a way quite pleasing to see.
The girls found the cane juice sweet, but on the whole
preferred the more concentrated extract they had been
accustomed to at home.
In the house where the old woman was weaving the
mat, was a young mother and her baby, a queer looking
little thing, with its body all rubbed over with red
powder, and its eyes hardly open yet, like a young kitten.
The girls were just delighted, for this was no doll baby,
but a real true enough baby, and an African baby at
that ; they crowded about it and surveyed it with quite as
much pleasurable interest as if they had discovered a gold
mine. The next thing, of course, was to pick it up, and
it was passed from one to another until each had taken a
turn in holding it; before this operation was ended it
234

PICNIC EXCURSION TO SANDY POINT
cried, as all good babies should, and the girls noted with
surprise that it cried just the same as white babies.
"Only to think," exclaimed Hattie, "that a black
baby should cry just the same as a white one ! "
"Yes," chimed in Mamie, "I thought they cried in
some heathen fashion or other, I didn't know how."
"Say girls," inquired Lulu, "why is it that these
babies cry just like ours do, and then talk such an out
landish gibberish when they grow up?"
This was a puzzle, for it seemed to the girls that if
they started right, as they evidently did, they ought to
speak the " Queen's English " when they were grown. It
could not be in the color, for were there not any number of
black babies in America, and did they not speak English ?
and then as to the color, this one was not black at all, but
very much the same color as all young babies, only a little
darker. The girls were beyond their depth, and they turned
to Mrs. Reading ; she told them that words were nothing
in themselves but mere sounds, and that the meaning
given was purely arbitrary; that the English language
that came so natural to us was not so soft, melodious or
regularly constructed a language as the Mpongwe, and
that to the ears of others it sounded harsh and discordant ;
that babies grow into their surroundings, and naturally
express themselves in the same way as those about them.
"There is my Lizzie," said she, "who spoke Mpongwe
before she did English, and to this day she thinks in
Mpongwe. As to the color of the skin, it is a pigment
deposited there the same as it is in our hair, and this does
not usually take place until after the child is born."
"What is this red stuff that is smeared all over it?"
inquired Jessie. 23s

PICNIC EXCURSION TO SANDY POINT
"It is powdered redwood," replied Mrs. Reading;
"they think it has a tonic effect, and they have it put on
the baby to make it stronger; sometimes they rub the
babies with chalk, and sometimes with ashes and other
things. The poor little babies have a hard time of it, and
a great many of them die when very young." While
they were talking, the baby went to sleep, and as they did
not wish to disturb it they went quietly out.
In the street, in the shade of one of the verandas,
were two girls playing a game with a sort of back-gam
mon board ; this board had two rows of open, cup like
holes along the side, and a hole at each end ; the players
moved large beans from hole to hole by a rule the girls
could not understand, and every now and then one took a
trick which entitled her to all the beans in a certain hole.
Mrs. Reading told the girls this game was a very intricate
one and difficult for a white person to understand, and
that it was common among all the tribes of Central
Africa. While they were watching the game Gertrude brought
Lizzie some white, oily nuts, a little larger than peanuts,
called coolah ; these nuts grow in a husk the size of a
walnut, and taste like chestnuts. They are great favorites
with the people, and in the season are brought to town in
basketfuls. The girls this morning made a discovery, which was
that it was hotter in a native house on the ground, than
in a board house elevated five or six feet above the earth.
In the Mission House at Baraka the temperature is seldom
above 94° Fahr., but here in these bamboo houses opening
upon the sandy street, it was over one hundred.
In the comfortable Mission House, so long as one
does not need to go out doors in the middle of the day, it
236

>
oo31>
OO

PICNIC EXCURSION TO SANDY POINT
is very pleasant ; but in native towns the middle of the
day is very hot. But be the day ever so hot, the negro
loves the fire ; there is something in its cheerful warmth
that comforts him, and be the temperature of the air what
it may,. he will sit down by a fire and enjoy it.
It was now eleven o'clock, and the girls thought they
had enough of sightseeing, so they went to their house
and remained quietly resting until the sea-breeze in the
afternoon made it pleasant to go out again.
The gentlemen returned in the early evening, having
had an adventurous day, and the next morning they bade
good-bye to King William and his people, and, promising
to come again if it were possible, they sailed across the
river and were home by noon.

237

Chapter XVI.

BENITA.

ON the return from King William's village it
was decided that the Band should take a trip
in the Mission cutter, Nassau, to the Benga
portion of the mission-field. From Gaboon
southward the Mpongwe language is spoken ; from Cor
isco northward, the Benga, and these two languages are
in many respects as unlike as English and German. The
Nassau was given to the mission by the boys and girls of
America, and is the main dependence for communication
with all parts of the Benga portion of the field except
Batanga, which is more easily reached by the regular Ger
man mail steamers which call there every month. Pas
sengers and supplies for all these stations, except Batanga,
are landed at Gaboon, and taken by the Nassau to their
destinations. The various foreign governments that have now seized
on nearly every mile of the coast, have made the business
part of the mission work much more arduous than it
formerly was. These colonial settlements are simply
money-making enterprises of the various governments
23S

CHURCH AND SCHOOL-HOUSE, CORISCO

BENITA
that have undertaken them, the idea being, that it will
form an outlet for the manufactures of the home coun
tries ; in the meantime, to make the undertaking pay its
way, duties on imports and exports are levied, and this
requires a great deal of red tape in the way of declara
tions, bills of lading, manifests, passenger lists, permits,
etc., etc., as well as makes missionary operations more
expensive. The matter is still further complicated when
a mission-field lies in the territory of two or more colo
nies, as is the case with the Gaboon Mission ; under such
circumstances the importation and distribution of supplies
and trade goods, is a difficult and troublesome task.
The trip north having been decided upon, Mr. Read
ing set to work to get the cargo ready for the little ves
sel ; this consisted of boxes of soap and canned goods,
cases of kerosene, barrels of flour, bundles of fish, with
calico, muslin, axes, charcoal irons, saws, planes, tobacco,
books and many other things. All these had to be
securely packed, weighed, measured, labeled, charged,
billed, passed through the custom-house, and letters of
explanation concerning them written, after which they
were sent on board.
Sunday comes like a benediction after the distracting
cares of the week, and none enjoy it more than the mis
sion family at Baraka.
On Monday morning, November 21, all was bustle
and excitement among the members of the Band with
preparations for the trip in their "very own vessel," as
they chose to call it ; for were they not the representa
tives of the givers? To take a ride in their own ship along
the bright green coast of sunny Africa, was a matter of
surpassing interest indeed. The strong limbed Kru-boys
were kept busy carrying to the beach wraps, portman-
239

BENITA
teaus, boxes of provisions, plantains, eguma, dried fish,
cocoanuts, mangoes, bananas, and limes ; wood and water,
as well as the cargo, had already gone on board on Satur
day. After breakfast they alitook up their line of march
for the beach, Mr. and Mrs. Reading and Lizzie going
along to see them fairly started ; the police officer came
too, to bid them bon voyage and see if all was straight.
It was a lovely morning, the air was soft and deli
cious, and the Judge noted with pleasure that it came
from a favorable direction. • Out in the river, half a mile
from shore, the good little ship was at anchor with her
head to the current, patiently waiting for her young own
ers to come on board. ' The big surf-boat had now
returned to the beach and the sturdy Kru-boys carried
the passengers one by one through the breakers, and put
them in it; then they pushed it off, and as the young
folks waved their handkerchiefs and hats in a good-bye to
the friends ashore, they paddled away to the cutter. It
was not a great while before they were alongside and
scrambing on board in their eagerness to see what the ves
sel was like.
The captain and crew were already on board, so there
was no cause for delay ; the surf-boctt dropped astern, the
captain shouted to his men, the sails crawled slowly up
the masts, the anchor chain was drawn in link by link,
the main sheet was hauled in, the helm put hard-a-port
and the little vessel rounded up to the wind and bounded
away over the waves, glad to be once more free. At the
guard-ship she " rounded to " while the boat was sent with
the pass ; when the boat returned it was made fast astern
and the voyage was resumed.
Now that they were fairly under way, the young
folks took time to look around and see what the vessel

240

MBADE STATION, BENITA RIVER

BENITA
was like. There was not much room on deck, and no
guards to keep them from falling off; in the bow there
was a winch to draw the anchor chain, and next to that a
little stove to cook food on ; the roof of the cabin occu
pied the middle of the deck, and there was a narrow pas
sage on either side. This cabin roof was about two feet
high and made a very fair place to sit on. Near the stern
was the wheel with a sun-shade built over it ; ropes, water
barrels, firewood, plantains, wraps, and many other things
were lying about, and there was no shade over the deck
except the small one over the wheel.
The young folks thought it was all "just too jolly for
anything," and after a look on deck they went dow'n stairs
to see what it was like there. They found a really nice
cabin with four bunks, two on each side, and a small table ;
a comfortable enough place it was, but small. The Band
were just delighted and declared it was no make-believe
ship, but a real sure-enough vessel, not the largest and
grandest in the world, but good enough ; and, well, they
just loved it.
Having come to this happy conclusion they went on
deck ; the sun was gaining in power and there was no
shady place ; the swell was coming in quite strong from
the broad Atlantic, and the motion of the vessel was
shorter and quicker than that of a large steamer, while
the wind made her lean over, so it was not so easy to keep
on one's feet. The Band had accounted themselves pretty
good sailors, but it was now only too evident they were
growing seasick ; the Judge therefore suggested to the
girls the desirability of going to the cabin and lying down,,
while he and the boys made themselves as comfortable on
deck as circumstances permitted.

241

BENITA
The day wore on, and as the sea-breeze increased in
strength with the declining sun,, the Band brightened
some and began to forget their seasickness, with the accel
erated motion of the vessel; they were running, too,
before the wind, and that made the cutter steadier. On
the starboard bow was the small islarid called Banyan, a
famous place for sea-shells, while Corisco loomed up. in
front not more than three miles away.
A chicken had been killed, arid some soup made on the
¦cooking stove ; it had a couple of peppers in it, and although
it tasted pretty strongly of the smoke, it helped to allay
the nausea, and the young travelers pronounced it ' good.
The soup loosened their tongues, and conversation, which
had been interrupted during, the day, was now resumed,
and they were commenting at a , lively rate upon their
experiences, when two great whales spouted up near them.
These great creatures did not seem in the least afraid of
the cutter, perhaps mistaking it for one of their own kind,
and swam up quite near, creating no little consternation
on board. There was evident cause for alarm, for each of
these huge animals was- much longer than the Nassau, and
they could no doubt have capsized the cutter if they had
wished to ; but they were peaceably inclined, and after
playing about for a few minutes they dived down and
were seen no more, to the intense relief of every one on
board. The Captain, Mr. Menkel, told the Judge he quite
frequently met whales, but that they seldom .came so near;
and that while he had never been;harmed by them, he did
not like them to come up too close.
At five p. m. the cutter anchored off the. Mission
Station of Alongo, which is oil the northwestern corner of
the island of Corisco, and the Captain went ashore to take
the mail and a few small packages. This station is in
242

MR. DeHEER'S CHURCH, BOLONDO

BENITA
charge of a native brother, and is not as prosperous as in
former days ; the people have been greatly debased by the
rum traffic, and have steadily decreased in numbers until
the population is now but a few hundreds.
Corisco is a bright little island four miles long and
three miles wide, and presented a picturesque appearance
as seen from the deck of the cutter. At the northern end
the shores were rocky and steep, presenting a firm front to
the waves which raged and dashed themselves to foam
against it ; while toward the southern end the shores were
flat and sandy, forming beautiful white shell-strewn
beaches, backed by lovely palms, among which the brown
roofs of the little native villages could be seen clustered
amid the broad leaves of the plantains. A great many
beautiful shells are found on these beaches, and the girls
thought they would love to look for them, and the boys,
too, wanted to go ashore, for they had heard at Gaboon
that turtles came ashore in the night, and they were anx
ious to "turn" them, as they had read about in books of
travel ; but there was no opportunity, for the vessel was
going right on to Benita, and so they could only hope there
might be a chance to do so on their way back. In a little
over an hour Mr. Menkel was back and they resumed their
voyage ; they were fortunate in having no rain, and the
night was much more agreeable than the day had been.
Soon after sunrise on Tuesday morning they crossed
the bar at the mouth of the Benita river, and sailed slowly
up to the station at Bolondo, two miles from the sea. The
houses are situated in a grove of lovely palms, and as the
little company looked eagerly ashore they thought they
had never seen anything more inviting. Word was at
once sent to Mr. DeHeer that the mission-band had come,
and the whole family were soon at the landing to welcome
243

BENITA
their guests. Mr. DeHeer's boat was soon in the water,
and this, with the Nassau's boat, was not long in transfer
ring the passengers to the beach.
Mr. and Mrs. DeHeer and Mrs. Reutlinger welcomed
their guests most heartily, and, leaving the luggage to be
brought up later, they led them to the house, where a
smoking hot breakfast was presently ready for them. The
Band thought they had never eaten so good a meal, and no
wonder, for Mrs. DeHeer is a famous cook, and they had
scarcely eaten anything since they left Gaboon. After
breakfast there was a good long talk, for white visitors are
seldom seen at Bolondo, and then the Judge and his young
companions retired to rest awhile, for they were pretty
well used up.
Along in the afternoon Mr. DeHeer took his guests
around to show them the premises ; they found Bolondo
was a clearing in the great forest growth that everywhere
covered the country ; trees and bushes were to be seen on
every side, for, except in front of the house, there was a
fringe of tall bushes left growing along the river bank.
The house was built of boards and raised on posts like the
houses at Gaboon, but it was two-storied, and so when you
were inside it was more like a house at home. As the
buildings were so shut in, there was no extensive view,
and the profound stillness all about made it seem like
Sunday. The good brother's whole heart and soul were
wrapped up in his church ; all his energies were bent upon
the spiritual improvement of his people, and he has been
successful in a remarkable degree. This anxiety for their
welfare is highly appreciated by them, and they love their
"Pa DeHeer" with a devotion that is indeed rarely seen.
They worshipped in a bamboo structure a short distance
from the house.

244

BENITA
The Band soon discovered that Mr. DeHeer was one
of the jolliest missionaries they had met, in fact, brim-full
of fun, and he kept them laughing much of the time.
Among his pets was a long-tailed monkey chained to a
pole, a happy fellow, full of tricks. Mr. DeHeer had
taught him to reach up and pull his handkerchief from
his pocket and then look in the pocket for a lump of
sugar; after the monkey had done this for Mr. DeHeer,
Willie thought he wrould try, but there was no sugar in
Willie's pocket, and when the monkey found that out he
pulled at the coat hard enough to tear it, and then ran up
the pole with his handkerchief. The Band had now found
a playmate, and while they were having some fun with
the monkey, Mr. DeHeer and the Judge sat down on the
church steps and talked about the mission work.
The next morning Mr. DeHeer arranged a trip to
Mbade [Em-bah-dah] a former mission station on the point
of land at the entrance to the river a couple of miles
from Bolondo. There is a path cut through the forest
leading to Mbade, but it is a tiresome walk, and Mr. De
Heer took his guests by water in his two boats, and a jolly
party they were. The beach is a rocky one, and not sandy
as at Gaboon ; and the reefs running out from the little
points of land make it necessary for boats to keep well
out. Mbade looks very pretty from the water, but the
beauty diminishes on a closer inspection, for the ground
on which it is built is sand, and the feet sink ankle deep
in the yielding sand at every step.
When this station was built it was thought that as it
was on a narrow point jutting into the sea, with a sandy
soil, little vegetation, and freely exposed to the winds, it
would prove to be healthy, but such has not been the case.

245

BENITA
Malaria is a strange power ; its origin and the laws that
govern it are practically unknown.
;The visiting party landed near a large mango tree
that grew luxuriantly by the water-side, and climbed the
bank to the level ground where the station was built, i
There was no missionary living here, and- the place was
in charge of a Bible-reader who kept the premises inorder
and taught a small school. When this station was begun
there was a considerable population in the neighborhood,
but. now there are less than one hundred souls within a
radius of a mile from the house.
It is a singular fact that all the seashore tribes are
dying out, and unless other tribes move down from, the
interior to take their places, the country will be left with
out inhabitants. Although the Benita is quite a long
river it is a poor one for trade ; nothing is exported. but a
little rubber and barwood, and the principal stock in trade
is rum. The factories are on the south side of the river,
and as trade is so poor they have a pretty dull time of it.
The Benita is navigable for twenty miles" to Senge,
where there are rapids, and throughout the remainder of its
course it consists of short, still reaches, separated by rapids
and cascades ; the country is one unbroken forest and is
likely to remain a wilderness for a very long time to
come. Mr. DeHeer and his guests wandered around Mbade
awhile and then returned to Bolondo, where the girls were
initiated into the art of .making palm-butter, for the man
ufacture of which Mrs. DeHeer has an enviable reputa
tion. The bright scarlet nuts are boiled to soften them
somewhat, pounded in a mortar to mash up the woody
pulp, strained through a cloth, and the yellow liquid boiled
to evaporate the excess of water, and then thickened with
246

SCENE ON THE BENITA RIVER

BENITA
flour and seasoned with Chilli peppers. The palm-butter
thus made is of a rich brown color, and has the consistency
of apple-butter ; it is used as a sauce or gravy on rice,
bread-fruit, or any farinaceous food. It differs from the
usual palm-chop in that it contains no oil or meat, and in
being thickened with flour.
The remainder of the week was spent most pleas
antly at this hospitable mission house, and in fact a
more delightful family circle can not be found anywhere
than the one that dwells amid the Bolondo palms.
The mission work is here carried on very differently
from what it is at Gaboon ; there is no government inter
ference and no foreign influence to contend with, conse
quently the work is easier and more fruitful in good
results. The school-house is built of bamboo, with a
board floor ; the Band peeped into it one morning and
saw the dark-skinned little heathens sitting on benches and
supposed to be studying their lessons, but mostly they
were looking over the tops of their books and soon caught
sight of the pale-faced strangers. One class was standing
up in a row with their hands behind them and their toes
to a crack in the floor, reciting in their wild, strange lan
guage, not one word of which our young friends could
make out.
One feature of the Bolondo mission life was the com
ing of the town's women every morning to sell the pro
duce of their gardens. This was the only market the
women had for their products, and the mission family
could consequently control the time of their coining ; at
Gaboon they come at all hours of the day, and it cannot
be avoided. The women came early, and then attended
morning prayers, after which the trading began; this

247

BENITA
interesting department of mission labor was conducted
solely by the ladies.
At Bolondo the supply exceeds the demands of the
market, and so only a stipulated quantity is taken from
any one woman, in order that all may have an opportunity
to procure at least a few of the goods the white ladies
have to sell. One woman was bringing ten eguma every
day until she should accumulate sufficient credit to purchase
calico for a dress ; another wanted a lamp, and was bring
ing plantains ; another wished to exchange sweet potatoes
for a plate ; another, eggs for a head of tobacco, and so on.
These native women could keep accounts fairly well in
their heads, but to prevent mistakes where produce was
not paid for at once, payment was made in tickets or cards
somewhat like the tickets formerly given in Sabbath-
schools as rewards of merit. These cards were both of
different sizes and colors, so that those who could not read
might easily distinguish them ; they were payable to
bearer so that they were current as money, and were the
only money in circulation at Benita ; at Gaboon there is
French silver coin. All employees are paid at all the
stations in this "paper cash," which may be exchanged
for goods at stated times ; . this system is well liked by both
the missionaries and the people.
There are excellent fish in the Benita river, but they
are not so abundant as at Gaboon. The ocean current
that flows northward along the coast comes from the
South Atlantic, and as it proceeds gets increasingly
warmer, and it would appear that the cooler the water
the more numerous are the fish, for as we go northward
their numbers constantly decrease. One evening the boys
were on the beach near the little cape just below the boat
landing, and an old man who was fishing with a long line
248

No. 10 O^REDIT CARD. ®
Due the bearer in GOODS on demand,
IF PRESENTED TO THE TREASURER OF THE
BARAKA MISSIOH STATION
DURING THE USUAL BUSINESS HOURS.
Special attention iy/!alled to the fact that this card will be redeertred
only in e<=ods, at the usual prices, and not In cash.

No, 999 Credit card.
Due the bearer in. GOODS on demand.
FIYE FRANCS
IF PRESENTED TO THE TREASURES OF THE
MRAE4 MISSIQNi ST4TIOM
DURING THE USUAL BUSINESS HOURS.

Special attention is *called to the fact that this caTcl will be redeemed
only in jfoods, at the usual prices, and not in cash.

I 

BENITA
drew ashore a fine fish about two feet long and of a bright,
pink color ; as it came from the water, with its fins all
bristling^ it was a. beautiful creature. The native fisher
men have a custom that might well be adopted in more
civilized lands; after catching a fish they do not allow it
to die a lingering and torturing death, but kill it at once
by a smart blow on the head.
A favorite dish in the Bolondo household is what is
called an Ajomba [Ah-jom-bah] of fish. To prepare this
dish the fish are cut into lengths of five or six inches and
laid upon plantain leaves ; these leaves are nearly two feet
wide, and are cut into two feet lengths and laid together
in several thicknesses. After the fish has been laid upon
this pile of leaves, salt and red peppers are added and also
odika, pau, palm-oil or some other native sauce; the
edges of the leaves are then gathered up and tied and the
" bundle" put in the hot ashes, and the cinders raked up
near it, but not near enough to burn it. Both fish and
meat cooked in this way are excellent ; the leaves do not
impart any unpleasant taste, and as every particle of steam
is kept in the bundle the flavor is retained and the tough
est meat becomes tender. The Band ate the ajombas
with a relish, but they did not care much for the sauces
that were cooked with them.
Here at this station, as at Gaboon, Sunday is the
great day of the week; on Saturday the yard is cleaned,
the church swept, and every preparation made for suita
bly celebrating the day of rest. The Sabbath the Band
spent at Bolondo was one of unusual interest, for it was
communion Sabbath and a goodly number were to come
out on the Lord's side and unite with His people. All
through the week there had been session meetings, so that
the good Brother DeHeer had not been able to spend as
249

BENITA
much time with his guests as he would have liked. A great
many candidates were examined and many pathetic scenes
witnessed ; one old woman had been a sorceress, but she
brought the implements of her witchery and threw
them on the floor of the session room, saying, " Now I
belong to Christ, and have no use for these things."'
These people were all in great earnest, and they were able
too to give a reason for the faith that was in them, for one
of the qualifications for membership was a pretty compre
hensive knowledge of the catechism.
Sabbath morning was calm and bright, as lovely a
summer's day as ever dawned upon this earth ; those from
a distance who were to attend the services, had arrived on
Saturday, for no traveling is permitted on the Sabbath.
At the ringing of the first bell they began to assemble
with serious faces, and every one dressed in his best.
The Judge and the Band were given seats on one
side of the pulpit, and the other side was occupied by the
children with Mrs. Reutlinger at the organ ; the body of
the house was filled with a sea of black faces, once wild
sons of the forest, now humble worshippers of Jehovah.
The candidates for baptism occupied the front seats, then
came the church members, and what space was left was
occupied by the heathen, many of whom could not gain
admittance for lack of room. As soon as the second bell
ceased ringing the doors were closed ; they were opened
again during the singing, after which they were closed
and locked, so that there might be no distraction caused
by late comers. The services were very impressive,
although as they were wholly in the native tongue our
friends could not understand a word. At the close of the
sermon, thirty-two, old and young, arose from their seats,

250

BENITA
forming a semi-circle from wall to wall, and took the
vows of God upon them.
The members of the Band were tired when they
reached the house, for the services had lasted more than
two hours. Throughout the day there were various
prayer-meetings, as well as Sunday-school, and a preach
ing service in the evening; in fact the people just gave
themselves up to meetings, and they made a full day of it.
On Monday morning the Judge and his companions
took leave of the kind friends at Bolondo and embarked
upon the cutter ; their stay had been both instructive and
very agreeable, and they saw the Bolondo palms fade into
the distance behind them, with genuine regret.
After crossing the bar and making a good offing, they
headed north, running parallel with the coast. The
mountains of the Sierra del Crystal range were in sight
far away to the eastward, and formed a beautiful back
ground to the dark green forest that rested in an
unbroken expanse upon the land ; after a while the mists
gathered about the mountains and hid them from sight.
The wind was light and the sun scorching hot, but there
was nothing to do but to bear it, and so they endured it
with such grace as they could.
Toward sundown they anchored half a mile from the
shore off the Bata [Bah-tah] river. It was a wild place ;
ashore was only the tangled forest, cleft in twain by the
narrow river that forced an uncertain passage through the
rocks, against which the surf beat, throwing up clouds of
spray. The thought of going in a small boat through
that surf into the river was not an inviting one, but there
was no other way to get ashore, and so the Captain took
the Judge and the girls, and then came back for the boys-

251

BENITA
- The cutter danced about so it was with extreme dif
ficulty the girls were lowered into .the. boat,. but after a
few slight -mishaps they were transferred to. the boat and
then the men pulled slowly toward the bar. . The water
boiled and foamed 'about .-them and some of the waves wet
them, but they, got over safely and all at once found them
selves in a quiet river. Presently on> rounding a point
they saw a town and a long church among the trees, and
in a few m'intites were on the beach and cordially wel
comed by Rev. Mr. Etianye [A-tee-ah-ye], Mr. DeHeer's
able and trusted lieutenant.

252

REV. B. B. BRIER

Chapter XVII.

BATA— EVUNI— BATANGA.

'm \m ^ EDNESDAY morning was damp and
A M^ i misty ; a heavy rain had fallen during
? ^B j the night, everything outdoors was
^^^¦¦^ soaked and wet, and a fog hung over
^* the river, but the sun soon dispelled the
mists and dried the grass, and it proved to be a glorious
day. After coffee the Baud sallied forth to take a look at
the town ; they found it small and by no means well situ
ated, for both banks of the little river were overgrown
by mangroves and at low tides banks of noisome black
mud were exposed to the sun.
It was evidently no fit place for a white man to live
in, but Mr. Etianye appeared to enjoy it, and the river gave
him an easy path to the hill country in the interior. This
earnest brother had built a church in the midst of a grove
of oil-palms, and he appeared to be thoroughly devoted
to its interests and well loved by his congregation.
The people of the town did not seem to be in a flour
ishing condition ; they looked thin, hungry, and poorly
kept, and the Judge ascertained, upon inquiry, that their
253

BATA—EVUNI— BATANGA
gardens were not very productive, and they seldom were
able to obtain meat or fish.
From Benita northward, for some reason not well
understood, the entire coast-line is a land of hunger, and
the one great thought of the people is to get something
to eat. It is true elephants are numerous and trouble
some, but it would seem as if this evil might be turned
to good account by killing the elephants, eating the flesh
and selling the ivory ; but to kill an elephant is a big
undertaking, and is seldom done except by the cannibal
tribes in the interior, and watching all night in the heavy
rain is dreary business ; so the people do little planting
and are always looking about for something to put in
their stomachs, nothing coming amiss if it can only be
gotten ; dogs, rats, snakes, monkeys, ants — all is game to
their nets, and no doubt tastes as good to them as oysters
and terrapin to us.
The Judge expressed a wish to take a ride up the
river, so Mr. Etianye hired two canoes and crews, and at
ten o'clock they started ; this was the first time the Band
had taken a journey in canoes, and they found them rather
crazy affairs.
A fleet of canoes upon a tropic river, skimming along
with ease and grace under the vigorous strokes of their
dusky crews, is a pleasing and picturesque sight; but
when the clumsy white man gets in, he finds to his dismay
that they will capsize with the greatest ease, and require
as much skill in balancing as a bicycle. Mr. Etianye
seated his guests upon low stools, and after going a mile or
two they began to breathe more easily, but the cramped
position was far from comfortable.
The river was fifty yards wide and bordered by man
groves ; a mile or so above the town, on the left bank of
254

BATA—EVUNI— BATANGA
the river, was a prairie which is said to extend all the way
to Benita, running parallel with the beach. This level
prairie, with the tall woods on either side of it and single
trees growing upon it here and there, was beautiful, and
was evidently appreciated by the animal creation, for par
rots and other bright-feathered birds were flying about,
and on the more secluded portions wild buffalo and deer
delight to graze. Elephants also frequent the edge of the
prairie, but not to eat the grass, for the elephant is not a
grass-eating animal, but prefers the leaves and fruits of
trees, so it must be that he haunts the edge of the woods
merely to enjoy the beauties of the scene. This at least
was Mr. Etianye's opinion, and he was reckoned among
his people to be a great elephant hunter because he had
killed two or three of these huge beasts.
As they proceeded it was easy to see that the river
ran in a trough or deep valley with hills covered with
heavy forest on either side. By and by the water became
sweet and the mangroves were succeeded by the pandanus,
papyrus, and palms on the flooded lands, and large forest
trees where the ground was higher.
At one o'clock they came to a village and halted for
rest and lunch ; the village was a little way back from the
river on rising ground, and as the trees had been cut away
to allow the plantains to grow it was hot there, so a tem
porary camp was made beneath some tall trees near the
landing where it was shady.
The villagers were somewhat annoyed by the pres
ence of so large a party of white folks and kept at a
respectful distance, but they sold Mr. Etianye some plan
tains for tobacco and soap, and by and by a few of the
men, armed with guns and spears, ventured to come and
make a closer inspection. The men boiled the plantains
255

BATA—EVUNI— BATANGA
which were green and hard, while a few riper ones were
roasted in the ashes like potatoes, and these, with some
canned corn-beef, made a frugal dinner for the Judge and.
his young friends.
This was the first time the girls had actually camped.
out in the wild woods and they enjoyed it very much;
especially were they pleased with some small monkeys
they saw in the trees called Kalinga [Kah-leen-gah], by the
Mpongwes. These monkeys were no larger than kittens
and had tails twice. the' length of their bodies; they were
playful little fellows and appeared to -lead a jolly life in
their leafy home. Mamie wondered what' they did in the
night when it rained so" hard, and the general opinion was
that as they had no houses to shelter them they must get
very wet and miserable.
After a good rest they again took their seats in the
canoes and with the aid of the ebb tide sped swiftly home
wards. They had not gone a mile when on rounding a
turn they saw in the quiet river ahead of them a column
of water like the. "spout" of a. whale, and a moment after
a great ugly head was shoved up into view. The Band
viewed the apparition with consternation and the. crew
shouted out " En-goo- voo," and began: to back vigorously
with their paddles. Now eu-goo-voo means ' hippopot
amus, arid this great river horse was splashing, around
there in the- water as if he thought the river was his home
and he could do as he pleased in it. Neither crew nor
passengers were disposed to dispute with him, and so the
canoes quietly waited until he chose to get out of the
way, which he did in a few minutes.
The hippopotamus furnished a subject for conversa
tion all the way home, and the Band were agreed there
was nothing awkward or clumsy in his movements when
256

MRS. B. B. BRIER

BATA—EVUNI— BATANGA
splashing freely about in his native river. Mr. Etianye
informed them the flesh was excellent eating and the boys
wished they might have some for supper.
This was the night for the regular Wednesday even
ing prayer-meeting ; it was held in the church, and as the
news had spread of the arrival of the strangers, there was
a large audience in attendance. The church was of
bamboo, and copied after Mr. DeHeer's at Bolondo, but it
was more narrow. Kerosene lamps along the wall shed a
rather dull light upon the congregation in various stages
of dress and undress, but all with earnest, eager faces,
although not all were Christians. Hymns were sung in
the native tongue, and after reading and prayer by the
pastor, the Judge addressed them, using an interpreter.
Speaking through an interpreter is not easy ; the sentences
must be short, and while they are being repeated the
speaker's mind is apt to wander, making it difficult to
keep up the connection ; however, the Judge did very
well, and the people were greatly pleased.
Thursday morning the visitors found they were quite
sore and stiff from the cramped position in the canoes,
and so they determined to remain a day and rest. It was
a good resolution, for on Friday they were bright and
fresh, and were on board the cutter in good season in the
morning, having enjoyed their visit at Mr. Etianye's town.
As they rounded the first point along the coast on their
way north they saw the trading post of Bata, a mile or
more from the river ; here there are three factories, a
French police-station, and a French Catholic mission
station. ^
At four p. m. the cutter anchored off Evuni [A-voo-
nee], about twenty miles north of Bata. There was a
surf about five feet high caused hy the brisk sea-breeze,
xvii 257

BATA— EVUNI— BATANGA
and in going through this they all got wet — a far from
comfortable experience, but our young, tourists were now
getting somewhat accustomed to the discomforts of travel,
and had learned to notice them as little as possible. - They
found a large community with a rafribling town or collec
tion of villages, and no white man, either missionary or
trader, so that they must look wholly to the native people
for entertainment. The cutter had been recognized before she anchored,
and Mbeyi [Em-ba-ye], the Bible-reader in charge of the
church, was on the beach to welcome the Judge and his
companions, and took them to the house of one of the
elders, which was built on posts, and was comfortable.
They were all so tired and seasick that they did little that
evening but rest, and the people who came to pay their
respects were told to come again in the morning.
Saturday morning they held a grand levee, when
nearly the entire population came to see the strangers and
shake hands ; this, latter ceremony being almost the only
civilized custorii that had as yet reached this remote region.
It was indeed a heathen community, rough and rude, but
kindly disposed toward the strangers, and they had noth
ing to fear.
The Judge was surprised to learn that here there was
a church with more than a hundred members, and that
among the by no means attractive crowd was many a true
disciple of the meek and lowly Jesus; it seemed scarcely
credible that. this wild tribe was pressing into the king
dom ; and yet such was the case.
When a white person goes into an African village he
is regarded as a great natural curiosity, and all of his
movements being a matter of wonder, are closely watched,
so that there is little privacy, and this our friends found to
258

WATERFALL AT BATANGA

BATA— EVUNI— BATANGA
be true in their case ; go where they would there were
always followers, respectful, to be sure, but the sense of
being always gazed at is not always pleasant.
Evuni is built on a level, sandy plain, and owing to
the great number of oil and cocoanut-palm trees, plan
tains and cassava bushes, there is little breeze, and it is
very hot indeed. The young folks were covered with
prickly heat, so that the skin was as rough as nutmeg
graters. Sabbath morning was bright and clear, and through
out the town work was generally suspended, and toward
nine o'clock the people began to assemble in the church.
This building was entirely the product of native skill, no
white man having in any way assisted in its construction ;
it is low, built of bark, with two doors at either end, but
with no windows or openings of any kind on the sides.
The floor is mother earth, trampled hard and smooth.
Down each side were two long, parallel poles supported on
crotched sticks. Across this space, from pole to pole, were
slabs cut from trees, and part of the congregation rested
uneasily on these ; the remainder brought in with them
empty kerosene and gin boxes, pieces of broken canoe and
chunks of fire-wood, and setting these wherever they could
find room, they sat upon them as well as they were able,
being often obliged to share a portion of the space with a
friend. The pulpit platform was three cord-wood sticks cov
ered with boards from old boxes; these boards were of
different lengths and thicknesses, and withal somewhat
twisted, nor were they nailed to the cord-wood, so that the
preacher needed to be' supple to keep from getting his feet
tangled. The pulpit itself was made from the same kind
of boards, and covered with a trade blanket. Although
259

BATA— EVUNI— BATANGA
the house was not large, three hundred persons crowded
themselves in it, and another hundred stood about the
doors ; the sun shone down with great power and the heat
presently became almost insupportable.
After the devotional exercises Judge McGee was
invited ito preach, which he did, using an interpreter as at
Bata. The sea of wild faces that were turned toward the
speaker was a wondrous sight to behold, and as their
unattractive features lighted up with the glow of heavenly
love, it seemed as if already the kingdoms of this world
had become the kingdoms of our Lord, when such wild
tribes as these obeyed His word.
After the sermon a collection was taken, and as there
is no money here the people gave such things as they had.
Four men worked their way through the mass and took
the offerings of the people, which consisted of plates,
mugs, handkerchiefs, leaves of tobacco, brass and copper
rods, bowls, glasses, knives, beads and baskets; and one
man ga^'e his shirt. The Judge was an old Presbyterian
elder, but he had never seen such a "collection" as that.
When the services were ended the white visitors were
-' nearly melted," but they could not go home until they
had shaken hands all around, and this took almost an
hour ; it was very trying, but it was all they could do for
these poor people, and so they did it willingly.
On Monday morning the Band were on the beach by
eight o'clock ; the surf was about four feet high, the roll
ing billows combing over finely and breaking in masses
of foam upon the sandy shore. The young folks remem
bered their wetting on Friday and they expected the same
again, but were agreeably disappointed for the Kru-boys
managed the boat with great skill and a few drops only
sprinkled them. When all were on board the cutter, the
260

BATA— EVUNI— BATANGA
Nassau spread her white wings to the morning breeze and
sailed away to the northward, keeping the coast-line
always in sight.
Toward sundown she passed the mouth of the Campo
river which is the dividing line between the French and
German possessions ; when the boys heard that this river
had never been explored they were seized with a desire to
ascend it at once, but their ardor was somewhat cooled
when they were told that if they did so the natives
would almost surely murder them.
The boys asked the Judge why it was that the Afri
cans did not like to have white men travel in their
country. The Judge replied there were two reasons : first, the
negro loves his country and he very naturally wants to
keep it for himself; the white man belongs to a superior
race and if he visits the country, who knows but he may
like it so well he will want to return and take it for his
own? The second reason is, that the profits of trade
depend upon keeping the white man near the' sea, other
wise he will deal directly with the interior tribes and their
percentage as middlemen will be gone.
The boys admitted the negro's head was a level one,
viewed in the light of Anglo-Saxon wisdom, but still they
felt they would like to see the river and when they got to
be men they would come out to Africa and see what
could be done.
At sunrise the next morning the Nassau anchored off
Batanga and the Band gazed eagerly to see what the place
looked like. As the sun rose over the tree-tops and
lighted up the eastern hills, it shone on as fair a landscape
as is seen in the tropics. Away to the southeast was
Elephant Mountain covered to its summit with a thick
261

BATA— EVUNI— BATANGA
forest growth ; in the far distance were the peaks of the
coast range, while in the foreground was a rolling country
thickly dotted with villages, and with rocky headlands at
intervals jutting into the sea.
The friends at the American mission had already
noticed the cutter and had hung a flag out • over the end
of the piazza, and several of the native people had come
down to the beach and were waving their handkerchiefs;
evidently a warm welcome was awaiting them. ashore and
they lost no time in getting the boat ready. As at Bata,
only half the Band could be accommodated in the boat at
once, so the boys were left to come on the second trip.
Good Brother Brier was watching them through his
glass, and when he saw how many passengers were com
ing, he and Mrs. Brier went down to the landing- to meet
them. There are a great many rocks along this part of
the coast and it is not always easy to land ; Mr. Brier
pointed out the way to steer and so they passed safely
among the great black stones and reached the beach with
out mishap. Mrs. Brier was particularly delighted to see
the girls, for she was the only white lady at Batanga and
it was like home again to see so many bright faced girls.
The Mission House is near the sea, and indeed the
premises include a part of the beach; this struck the
Judge as a good idea, for as the sea is the only highway
of travel, why the mission premises should be half a mile
away as at Gaboon, he could not understand.
This station has been occupied by a white missionary
but a very short time and the buildings are therefore
new. The Judge noted with interest the progress that
had been made in the art of building ; the posts were of
brick laid in cement, instead of wooden piles ; the frame
work was stronger ; the roof of galvanized iron instead of
262

BATA— EVUNI— BATANGA
palm-leaf mats, and the paint a pretty tinted shade instead
of the glaring white, which in the brilliant sunlight is
painful to the eyes. The steps leading to the piazzas were
solid brick-work, the kitchen had a brick floor and there
were excellent cisterns for holding the water that came
from the iron roofs. The house, although but of one story,
had high ceilings, and Mrs. Brier had decorated it with
many nice little keepsakes — memories of her girlhood
days — so that it had a wonderfully home-like appearance.
Near by was a factory belonging to a Bristol firm, and
across the small creek that flowed by the mission premises,
were two German factories. Just beyond the English fac
tory was the house of Madula, the chief of this district,
and a humble consistent Christian.
After the boys came ashore and a good hot break
fast had dispelled the last feeling of seasickness, the Judge
and Mr. Brier adjourned to the piazza for a good talk,
while Mrs. Brier took the girls with her, and the boys
went down to the beach with Rev. Mr. Etongolo to see
the fishermen go out in their small canoes.
The Batanga fishermen use a small canoe not found
elsewhere on the coast ; it is made of soft wood, pointed
at both ends, and is so light that it may easily be carried
in one hand. It is not more than ten or twelve inches
wide in the middle and is so frail in appearance that it
seems incredible that it can support a man upon a rough
sea. But these Batanga fishermen do not fear, and to
them the little canoes are all-sufficient, for under their
skillful handling they ride the seas like a duck. Mr.
Etongolo explained to the boys that when paddling, the
men put their feet in the canoes, but when they wished
to anchor they hung their feet over the sides and worked
them back and forth in the water, thus steadying the craft
263

BATA— EVUNI— BATANGA
and leaving their arms free for handling the lines. Nets
are not used here as at Gaboon, but all the fishing is done
with hook and line. There are few fish and these keep
near the bottom in three to four fathoms of water, so that
ordinary nets would not reach them.
Fishing is not a paying business, and yet as there is
no other way of getting flesh it is a necessary occupation,
and every family sends at least one representative to the
sea every morning. The men go out from eight to nine
o'clock in the morning and return at noon ; the boys
looked in several of their canoes and found they averaged
about four fish each ; these were like our catfish and one
kind was like a large sunfish, but of a pink color. Mr.
Brier sent his cook down to get some fish, but he could
only buy them with cans of compressed corn-beef, and
even then he had to pay large^ prices.
All other kinds' of native food are as scarce at
Batanga as fish, and it is a constant struggle with the
poorest to get. enough to eat, and then they do not always
succeed. The reason for this is that the • men are wholly
given to the ivory trade, and like our merchant princes at
home, they do not care to dig in the ground; there is no
back country here able and willing to supply the pro
vision market, and so the successful traders buy rice, cod
fish and other food from the factories, large quantities of
which are imported for the purpose.
The country back of Batanga consists of one unbroken
jungle or forest through which extends a range of moun
tains of moderate height at a distance of! forty _ or fifty
miles' from the coast, with here" and there a detached hill
nearer the- sea, of; which the Elephant' Mountain . is an
example. So far as known, this forest continues in an
easterly direction' all the way to the Congo river; but in
264

NATIVE TRADER, OLD CALABAR

BATA— EVUNI— BATANGA
a northeasterly direction, at a distance of two hundred and
fifty miles, there is an open, grassy country, with a large
population, and beyond these, say some two hundred miles
more, the people build houses of a circular form and
use horses. A narrow strip of this forest land next to
the sea, say perhaps twenty miles in width, is inhabited ;
after which the forest is a wilderness until the open, grassy
country is reached.
Throughout this forest the rubber vine is abundant,
and there is some ivory in the country beyond the forest,
and the price is very low, owing to the difficulty of trans
porting it to the sea. The article that bears the highest
price is salt; a small handful is the price of a slave, and a
basinful will purchase a tusk of ivory. The people of
this inland country are industrious and carefully cultivate
the soil, and if a railroad were built to their country and
rum kept out, they might be induced to raise many valu
able articles for export. The cost of building such a road
would not be great, and if a subsidy in land were given,
in a few years it would pay well. ? M 3
Toward evening Mr. Brier and the Judge walked up
the beach a couple of miles to inspect a tract of ground
Mr. Reading had purchased a few months before, upon
which it was proposed to build a new central station for
the work to be carried on in the German possessions. In
the year 1888, Mr. Reading made an arrangement with
the German governor, Baron Soden, by which the Society
he represented should be permitted to extend its work and
acquire property in the Batanga district, and as far in-
teriorward as it was able to go ; preaching and religious
teaching was to be unrestricted, and schools might be
formed and taught wholly in the native tongue, but if a
foreign language were taught, it should be the German.
265

BATA— EVUNI— BATANGA
These terms are more liberal than those given by the
French colonial government, and it was thought best to
extend the work in the German territory as soon as men
and means might be obtained.
The land purchased for the new central station rises
abruptly from the sea to a height of forty feet and then
extends away in an almost level plateau to the eastward.
There is a rocky headland jutting out into the sea, and
this shelters a little bay from the southwest sea-breeze,
which makes a comfortable landing place. The soil is
rich, and there is a small stream of never failing water.
From the bluff a fine view was obtained of the sea, and
also up and down the coast ; the Judge was much pleased
with the situation, and thought it would be a comfortable
place in which to live, as it was open on all sides to the
breeze. On Wednesday an excursion was made to the water
fall, which is a little more than a mile beyond the new mis
sion premises, visited by the Judge the evening before.
Chief Madula loaned his big canoe and men to paddle it,
and this, with Mr. Brier's boat, comfortably accommodaed
all the party.
They got away early, and the ride along the shore in
the fresh morning air was delightful, and the young folks
were in the best of spirits. These falls are within three
hundred yards of the ocean, and it is a novel sight to be
able to see a fine waterfall from the deck of an ocean
steamer. They crossed the bar, entered the river, and
made a careful inspection of the falls ; these are in two
sections as at Niagara, only one section of which is seen
in the engraving, the other being away to the right. The
fall is about forty feet, and the water is nearly ten degrees
colder than the sea water. It is safe to go up to the very
266

BATA— EVUNI— BATANGA
edge of the falling water, and thus an excellent view may
be obtained, although in going so near the spray soon
thoroughly wets one's clothing.
After rowing about and enjoying the falls from every
point of view, the party landed, and after a call at the
English factory on the point, they went up into the native
town to pay a visit to Bevinia [Ba-vee-nea] the chief of
this district. This young man had in former years been
one of Mr. Reading's pupils in Gaboon ; now he was the
head of his tribe, a man of influence, and a most con
sistent Christian. He lived in a good house and had a
nice family, and it was pleasant to see such a real Christian
home in this wild country.
Mr. Hervey, the gentleman at the factory, had invited
them all to lunch, and about noon they went to his house
and the Band had a good time looking at his pictures, for
he is an amateur artist and takes photographs for amuse
ment. About the middle of the afternoon they went
home, and that night their dreams were full of all kinds
of impossible cascades and waterfalls.

267

Chapter XVIII.

RETURN TO GABOON.

0ABBATH morning, December 4th, was an
other of those beautiful days so common in
Western Africa. The rains had passed to
the southward and the delightful dry-season
had begun ; the heavens were not covered with dull gray
clouds as is often the 'ease in the dry-season farther south
ward on the coast, but great masses of white cumuli, like
immense snow-banks in the air, reflected the brilliant sun
light. A solemn hush had fallen upon the landscape ; the
factories were closed, and no fishing canoes were to be
seen upon the water.
About nine o'clock the people from a distance began
to stream by with their best clothes under their . arms ;
they had come from a distance to attend the church serv
ices and were going to their friends in the town, where
they would dress and come forth in a manner befitting
the occasion. As men's ready-made clothing is. more
easily obtained than women's, the men appeared to
better advantage than did their wives and daughters-
268

CHURCH BUILT BY MR. READING, GABOON

RETURN TO GABOON
nearly all the dresses were made by the wearers and did
not fit well, and there is no doubt that experienced dress
makers could find abundant employment if they should
go to Batanga.
The church in this place is over sixty feet long, but
on special occasions it can hold but little more than half
the people who come to the services. The floor is elevated
on posts about five feet above the ground, and the space
underneath is occupied by a good-sized audience seated
on chairs, stools, empty boxes and pieces of firewood. On
this particular Sabbath morning, along the shady side of
the church, cord-wood sticks had been laid down in rows
and boards laid on them, thus increasing the seating
capacity. In order that this outside congregation might hear the
better, when the church was built, not only were many
windows made in the sides, but large openings were also
made near the floor, so that sound might find its way down
underneath as much as possible. By the time the second
bell had ceased ringing, the building was packed, and a
sea of dark faces gathered about every door and window.
As the services progressed the Judge noticed another
use made of these openings near the floor. At Batanga
there are a great many babies, which is in marked contrast
with Gaboon, where babies are a rarity unless it be mulat-
toes. These babies are brought to church and as the serv
ices are long, the babies by and by get tired and cry ; the
crowded condition of the house makes it difficult for the
mother to get out, so she slips her little one down through
one of these openings to a friend outside who takes it
away to town. This handy contrivance excited the
admiration of the Judge, and proved to his mind that the
African is capable of invention. 269

RETURN TO GABOON
The Sabbath-school in the afternoon numbered over
four hundred scholars, and the church work at this station
is very successful in all its branches.
On Tuesday morning the outward-bound German
steamer Ella Woermann, commanded by Captain Dittmer,
anchored off Batanga, and the Judge determined to return
to Gaboon in her. The prevailing wind on this part of
the coast is from the southwest, and this, with the strong
northerly current, makes it easy to sail north, -and corre
spondingly difficult to sail in a southerly direction. It
takes a week for the Nassau to go from Batanga to
Gaboon, and sometimes longer, and even though it were
the young folks' " very own vessel," a week on board such
a small craft would be not only tedious, but very ex
hausting. Then too Mr. and Mrs. Brier wanted to go to
Gaboon, and so it was arranged that all should go on the
Ella Woermann together and let the cutter follow at its
leisure. By five o'clock that afternoon they were all on
board, and at sundown the steamer weighed anchor and
started for Gaboon, which port it reached on Friday morn
ing, having spent one day at Bata, and one day at Eloby.
Mr. and Mrs. Reading gave their guests a warm wel-
coriie, and the Band found it very nice to be once more
back at Gaboon, which was so home-like, that notwith
standing its tropical appearance, they could almost forget
they were in the Dark Continent. It took them a day or
two to get rested, and then they spent some time explor
ing Gaboon and getting better acquainted with its people.
They visited among others the Rev. Toko Truman,
an old blind preacher, who told them a great many stories
and always had something new with which to amuse
them. Toko had lived for many years among the canni-
270

RETURN TO GABOON
bals and the Band never tired of hearing stories of these
strange people. "One time," said Toko, "a man asked
me, 'Toko when I die will I go to heaven?' and I told
him, no, God has made a law that a man can have but one
wife, and you have four wives, and so you cannot go to
Heaven. " ' Well, Toko,' said this cannibal, ' when God calls me
I will say, all right Father, I will come, but you have all
the power, so don't be in a hurry, let us sit down and talk
a while. Then, Toko, I will say to Him, you knew when
I lived in the earth that if you gave me plenty of trade
goods I would go and buy women with them, and so you
ought not to have given me these goods ; therefore the
palaver [or fault], is yours ! ' "
" Another time," continued Toko, " I was preaching
about the resurrection and after the service some of the
chiefs came to my house and asked me, 'Toko, these
things that you told us to-day, are they true?' and I told
them, ' Yes, those things I told you, they are true ; ' and
then they said to me, ' Toko, we want you to write to God
and tell Him when He goes to make this war He must
send and give us notice, and then, Toko, we will go in the
bush and call more than fifty thousand Pangwes [Pang-
wees], and we will have a big fight.' "
"Another time a man said to me, 'Toko, I want you
tell me, are there any egumas in Heaven, and are there
any plantains there?' and I said to him, 'Heaven is a
world of spirits, and I do not read that there are any
egumas or plantains there.'
" ' Well, Toko,' said this man, 'I don't see what God
wants with so many people when He has no egumas or
plantains to feed them ; now if you will tell me there are

271

RETURN TO GABOON
egumas in Heaven, I will go there, but if not, then, Toko,
I don't want to go there.' "' . ¦ .
'! Another time I think they must -have gotten hun
gry for in the night a big canoeful of men came to kill
me, but just as they were coming around the bend in the
river one of the men stood up in the canoe and said,
-What are we going to do this for? we cannot a kill Toko
because he- settles all our quarrels for us.' Then another
answered and said, ' When we go to war, we go to war,
and we cannot stop because a man settles our quarrels for
, us.' So then they soon began to quarrel among them
selves and while they were quarreling -the canoe drifted
back, and presently they went home and I knew nothing
of it until several days afterward."
The young folks were also interested in watching the
singular actions of a very curious little bird -which had, in
great numbers, built their nests in a large palm tree near
Mr. Reading's house. The habits of these gay little
^vorkers are most remarkable, and the Band never wearied
in watching their movements. They are not much larger
than asparrow, with black and yellow plumage, and their
eggs are light pink with dark spots.
These sociable little birds always prefer to live in the
neighborhood of a village, as they seem fond of the
society of man; something as our own swallows are.
When ;they have settled upon a tree on which to plant a
colony, they labor fron* daylight to dark, day after day,
with the utmost joy, arid fun, and perseverance, in building
their singular pendant nests.' These nests are nearly
found, with a tight roof overhead, and an opening under
neath to go in and put, and are securely fastened to the
end of a palm-frond, so as to be out of reach of monkeys
and serpents. 272

INTERIOR OF NEW CHURCH, GABOON

RETURN TO GABOON
To build these fine nests the birds strip the tough
outside fiber of the palm or plantain leaf, and tear this
fiber into long fine threads ; they then weave their nests
with these threads, using both beak and feet, working most
industriously and chattering all the while, no doubt to
encourage one another ; anyhow that is what the Band
thought. These nests are real little houses in which the
birds live all the year ; when the young birds are large
enough the older ones help them to build a nest, and so,
as it were, begin housekeeping for themselves.
The second Sabbath after the return of the Band from
Batanga was a great day for the congregation of the
Gaboon church. The old church building had stood for
some thirty years, and had been often repaired, but it was
now nearly past repair, and for more than a year Mr.
Reading had been directing his men in the building
of a new house of worship. The labor was all done
by native workmen, and the mechanical execution was
superior to that found in many pretentious buildings
in America. The house is of frame with, galvanized
iron roof, and is supported upon brick piers covered with
cement. The steps are made of brick and stone and united
by mortar and cement into one solid structure, and does
not quite touch the church so that the rain will not rot
the sills by reason of their being in contact with the
bricks. It is beautifully finished inside, the pews being
in old oak and the walls and ceiling pearl color, with
darker trimmings about the doors and windows. The
pulpit furniture was given by the Ladies' Aid Society
connected with the church, and a part of the cost was
defrayed by the congregation.
Long before the second bell rang the people began to
gather and soon the house was filled to overflowing. The
xviii 273

RETURN TO GABOON
choir were out in full force and sat on the right of the
pulpit, [the left-hand side of -the illustration],. while the
Band occupied the .'opposite corner, near, the door.
After the invocation and the reading of CXXII Psalrii,
the congregation sang "Holy, holy, holy;. Lord God
Almighty!" and Mr. Brier readthe eighth chapter, of the
First Book of Kings; and then the choir sang. "I. will tell
the wondrous story," to., the ..tune ;of "My Redeemer."
Mr. Owondo then read the same lesson in Mpongwe and
the congregation sang an Mpongwe hyriirL , , ,--.
Mr. Brier read the order of dedication and offered the
dedicatory prayer, and Mr." Reading, preached the. sermon
from the text " I have surely built thee a .house to dwell
in; a settled place for thee to abide in lforever.'" There
were several more hymns and an" exhortation from Mr.
Brier, closing with the benediction by the old blind ' min
ister,1 Rev. Toko Truman. '..'-.
¦ ¦'.".r It was a glad- day for every one,, and all the people
rejoiced and .Congratulated each other iipori.the comple
tion iOf God's house. - . ' , .:: !
>' '"Saturday, the twenty-fourth, was celebrated for Christ
mas,; this festival is well observed in Gaboon,. althorigh, of
coritse, 'little is known of it in the country. districts; indeed
oilfe.should remember" that while Gaboon is .a. civilized city,
it", is only necessary to g.o ;teri miles in> the country to Aid
the grossest heathenism, accompanied by human sacrifices
and cannibalism. " ;r:-- . ' T-. ¦';'.•'• :. , ' '...;,' '.-'':
"•'•-- In Gaboon, Christmas is-a day. of sighfeseemg. "and.
pleasure ; in the morning the" towns-people, " dressed in
their.best,-call upon the traders and" other foreign. resi
dents and wish them " Kismas," of 'cpurse expecting some
Substantial return.*' "'

274

CHURCH AT OLD CALABAR

RETURN TO GABOON
After this ceremony they repair to the cathedral to
see the sights and hear the music, and then give them
selves up to all kinds of pleasure for the remainder of the
day and evening, ending with a big dance in the public
garden. At the American mission, work went on as usual until
noon, and then every one received a good piece of salt
beef for his dinner. The mission family had their dinner
at one o'clock, and it may be interesting to know of what
an African Christinas dinner consists.
The dining-room was beautifully decorated with ferns
and flowers by Hattie, assisted by the girls of the Band,
and both Africa and America contributed to the table ;
the roast ducks, sweet potatoes, spinach, plantains and
peppers, were native, while the oysters, Irish potatoes,
baked beans, sweet corn, bread, butter, coffee, inince-pie
and cheese were imported. The weather was as warm as
in July at home and the doors were wide open to admit
the breeze, while through the open windows came the
rustling of palm leaves and the twittering of birds.
It was a Christmas such as the Band had never ex
perienced before, and the thoughts of the yourig people
turned from the bright scene about them to the land of ice
and snow across the stormy ocean, where dear ones were
gathering by home firesides, while the chill winds moaned
through the bare tree tops and the air was filled with fall
ing snow. What a contrast !
In the afternoon there was a special service in the
new church, in which the choir took a leading part, and
the evening was spent in pleasant conversation on the
veranda. And now with the closing year we must close our
story, and leave for another volume the record of our
275

RETURN TO GABOON
friends' journey toward the interior upon the great Ogowe
river, and their wonderful adventures among the cannibals
and the pigmies of that unknown land.

>76

Chapter XIX.

POLITICAL DIVISIONS ON THE WEST COAST.

0 give some idea of the, extent to which
Africa is being divided among the nations
the following "political section" of Western
Africa is given :

Spain, .

Morocco

France, .

Morocco

Spain, .

Opposite the Canaries

France, .

French Senegambia

England,

British Senegambia

France, .

French Senegambia

England,

British Senegambia

Portugal,

Portuguese Senegambia

England,

Sierra Leone

Independent, .

Republic of Liberia

France, .

Gold Coast

England,

Gold Coast

France, .

Dahomey

England,

Niger Delta and Old Calabar

German)',

Kamerun

277

POLITICAL DIVISIONS ON THE WEST COAST

France, .
In dispute,
Spain, .
France, .
Portugal,
Congo Free
Portugal,Germany,
England,
Germany,England,

State,

Bata
Benita
ElobyGaboonKebenda Congo
Angola
Angra Pequena
Walvisch Bay
Orange River
Cape of Good Hope

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