YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

fey the. finding ef a Ccfogci* itii.Ch/cny

• iLniaiRAiKr •

1933

KIMBALL WEBSTER IN '49.

The Gold Seekers of '49

Peesonal Naebative of the Overland Teail and
Adventures in California and Oregon
from 1849 to 1854.

BY KIMBALL WEBSTER
A New England Forty-Niner

With an Introduction and Biographical Sketch
By George Waldo Browne

Illustrated
By Frank Holland and Others

Manchester, N. H.
STANDARD BOOK COMPANY
1917

Copyrighted 1917
Ononcit W. Bbownk

DEDICATION.
To My Five Daughters, Mrs. Lizzie Jane
Martin, Mes. Eliza Ball Leslie, Mrs.
Julia Anna Eobinson, Mrs. Mary New
ton Abbott, all of Hudson, N. H., and
Mes. Ella Frances Walch, of Nashua;
and to the sweet memory of that loved
Deceased Daughter, Latina Ray Web
ster, WHO QUIETLY PASSED TO THE OTHER
side of the "great dlvide," novhmbee
12, 1887, this naebative is most respect
fully dedicated by the
Author
KIMBALL WEBSTER

KIMBALL WEBSTER AT EIGHTY-PIVE.

HON. KIMBALL WEBSTER.
It is with keen regret and sorrow that we are called upon
to record the going out of the life of the author of the
following pages, who has died since work was begun
upon the book. Mr. Webster was born in Pelham, N. H.,
November 2, 1828, the seventh child and third son of John
and Hannah (Cummings) Webster. His education was ac
quired in the schools of his native town and Hudson, N. H.
He grew up inured to the hard work upon a New England
farm, besides working in granite quarries in his 19th and
20th years. In April, 1849, a little over six months before
he was twenty-one, with others scattered all over the coun
try, he caught the gold fever. Characteristic of his me
thodical ways, he kept a journal of his journey across the
country and of his experiences as a miner in California and
land surveyor in Oregon. His experiences in the Land of
Gold is told in his own vivid language in the following pages,
and forms one of the most interesting narratives of the days
of the gold-seekers of the Pacific Slope.
In 1855, after leaving Oregon, he was employed as a sur
veyor and land examiner by the Hannibal and St. Joseph
Railroad Company in the western part of Missouri. In
1858 he lived in Vinal Haven, Me., working in a granite
quarry, but the following year took up his permanent resi
dence in Hudson, N. H., where he lived the remainder of his
long and useful life. Following his leading occupation as
9

10 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
surveyor and engineer, always active and capable in his
duties as a citizen, Mr. Webster became a valuable and re
spected leader in public affairs, at one time or another hold
ing all of the offices in the gift of his townsmen, while there
were few important committees in which he did not figure
prominently. Possessing an observing mind, a good mem
ory and a logical discernment and summing up of local and
general matters, he early began to compile a history of his
town, and after fifty years of painstaking work he had col
lected the data for one of the most comprehensive town his
tories ever written. He was then past eighty, and it was the
pleasure of the undersigned to be associated with him in the
preparation of the manuscript for the printer and its publi
cation. During work upon that, his "journal" of the days
of '49 were examined, and finally he consented to have it
published. He was a Justice of the Peace and had an extensive pro
bate practice for nearly sixty years. He was a Mason and
active in the order of Patrons of Husbandry. Mr. Webster
retained his mental and physical powers, owing largely no
doubt to a perfectly abstemious life, until within a short time
of his decease, which occurred June 29, 1916, being 87 years,
7 months and 27 days of age. Noted for his sterling quali
ties, and having a wide acquaintance, he was mourned by a
large circle of friends.
Mr. Webster married, January 29, 1857, Abiah, daughter
of Seth and Deborah (Gage) Butler Cutter, of Pelham, N.
H., who survives him, as well as five of their ten children,
who have married and lived in Hudson.
G. W. B.

Biographical Sketch of the Author

9

Pioneers of California

.

15

Tidings of a New Eldorado

.

17

Across the Continent

.

23

The Overland Trail

33

The Humboldt River Trail

.

83

The Land of Gold .

.

100

Adventures by Flood

.

122

Life in the Mines

. .

137

The Illusion of "Gold Lake"

.

156

Mining on the Yuba River

. .

168

With Compass and Chain in

Oregon .

182

Homeward Bound .

.

227

Story of the Discovery of Gold .

237

ILLUSTRATIONS.

Page

Portrait of Kimball Webster in '49

. Frontispiece

Kimball Webster in His 85th year

Opp.p. 9

Placer Mining in '49. By Frank Holland (fr

om an

old drawing) ......

17

Overland Trail. By Frank Holland

33
Bay of San Francisco .
49
The Golden Gate
.
65
San Francisco in 1849
.
81
Sutter's Mill
.
97
Mining Scene
.
"3
Sacramento City in 1850
.
129
Postoffice in '49 .
.
H5
Custom House on the Plaza
,
161
Vigilantes in '49
.
177
Miners Starting for Home .
.
193
Great Seal of California
.
209
Warship Portsmouth. By Frank
Holland
225
13
14

THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49

Errata

Line 16, insert George W. Houston, Joseph B. Gage,
and Calvin S. Fifield .
9, read Moore, not moon
9, read formed, not found .
19, erase of, and insert on, after mountains
19, erase s at end of line, and insert r (Fort
Bridger) .....
10, read service berries, not summer berries
Top, Chapter' IV ....
1 8, spell Winnemucca .
19, correct spelling of principal
15, read miners, not winers .
18, read weighed, not wished
17, After promised, insert "to release to"
Top, also line 8, spell protractor
27 and 28, read the Pelham camp .
2, after "The" erase following, and after
morning insert before starting,
3, erase leaving and insert learning
8, at end of line add ship, "Columbia"
Top, erase "the" between "to" and "commence"
4 and 7, erase measured and insert meandered
7, erase compassman and insert campman
22 and 23, name of river, "Callapooya" .
16, erase "have" and insert "had" .

2039
4563 65 74
8383
96
101
102127 151166 167
177189190
2072072102l6

THE PIONEERS OF CALIFORNIA.
The story of the pioneers of all times and all countries is
one of great interest. In it is embodied the combined ele
ments of adventure and patriotism; the certain forerunner
of the coming greatness of the land quickened by the inspir
ing efforts of the newcomers, usually men of sterling quali
ties and unswerving purpose. The history of none of these
adventurers is fraught with keener interest or more mo
mentous results than that of the "Gold Seekers of '49."
The story of the men who dared and did so much in the
early days of the discovery of GOLD on the Pacific Slope
has never been fully told. In the pages of this remark
able book we are given in plain straightforward language
without any attempt at embellishment, by one who
participated in them, the trying experiences that com
prised the adventures and achievements of the hardy vol
unteers forming the little army of gold seekers who crossed
the plains immediately following the cry that awoke the
land from ocean to ocean as no other word could have done.
With no Jason to lead them, no seer to prophesy success,
no wizard to avert danger, these brave Argonauts pushed
resolutely forward across a continent, traversing thousands
of miles where the Greek heroes traveled hundreds, passing
over long, weary stretches of pathless plains, under beetling
crags, along frowning chasms and over alkaline deserts,
15

16 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
where the barest sustenance of life was denied them, con
stantly menaced by the Arabs of prairie and moun
tain flitting hither and thither across their way, enduring
sickness and privations sufficient to have discouraged a less
determined body, comrade after comrade falling from the
ranks, the ever-decreasing band still resolutely marching on
ward into the Land of Gold, to become the creators of a
mighty commonwealth, the builders of states. Through the
flood of circulating coin that their pickaxes unloosened
was advanced the prosperity of a nation whose progress
since has been the wonder of the world.
In the midst of all of this, and much more that a glance
at the scenes cannot even suggest, Mr. Webster bore a
prominent part as pioneer, miner, prospector, and surveyor
of the new country. With over half a century intervening
since that far-away day his vivid narrative comes to the few
now living who participated in the scenes like a voice in a
dream, while imparting to others the inner story of an era
in our country's history that forms one of its most impor
tant chapters.
With nearly two-thirds of a century intervening since the
days when the "gold fever" swept over the country, awak
ening steady-going New England as nothing else could have
done, it is not strange we seldom meet now one of the veter
ans who answered the call and crossed a continent in a
march as beset with dangers as many of a more warlike
purpose, or rounded a world to pursue the phantom of for
tune in a strange land. Very few of the Gold Seekers of
'49 are living to enjoy the halcyon days of a long and
useful life.
G. W. B.

THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
CHAPTER I.
TIDINGS OF A NEW ELDORADO
Late in the autumn of 1848 some reports began to be
received from the new Territory of California, which
had then lately been acquired by the United States from
Mexico, that large deposits of gold had been discovered
there, and that the small resident population had almost
forsaken their former avocation and had repaired to the
rich mines where they were reaping a golden harvest,
in many instances making large fortunes in a brief
period. These reports were at first almost entirely discredited
by the people of the United States. Many believed it to
be some cunning device of interested persons to decoy
thither immigrants and thereby stimulate the growth of
that sparsely populated territory.
During the early part of the winter of 1848-49 these
reports were in a great measure corroborated and con
firmed by official statements from government officers,
who were stationed on the Pacific coast; and as early as
January, 1849, vessels were fitting up in Boston, New
York and other Atlantic ports, in a manner suited to
17

18 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
convey passengers around Cape Horn to the New El
dorado, as it was then called.
The Pacific Mail Co. had at the time a line of steamers
plying between New York and San Francisco, by the way
of the Isthmus of Panama. These steamers made but
one trip each way a month.
As soon as information of a reliable character was
received in the Atlantic states regarding the mineral
wealth of California, a large portion of the population
became more or less excited, and many of an adventurous
nature were at once determined to leave their homes and
seek their fortunes on the western slope of the snowy
mountains. The query then arose, which was the cheapest, best
and most expeditious route to reach San Francisco?
The long and tedious voyage of five or six months
"around Cape Horn," though perhaps the cheapest, was
viewed by many as being almost beyond endurance.
The route by the Isthmus of Panama was attended by
difficulties and dangers in crossing the Isthmus from
Chagres to Panama, a distance of about fifty miles. This
journey was performed in boats up the Chagres river, and
thence by mules to Panama.
The journey by the latter route from New York to
San Francisco had usually been performed in about thirty
days and had usually been considered the better route.
So great was the rush to California by the way of the
Isthmus in a short time, or as early as January, the
tickets by that route were largely sold in advance for
several trips, and thousands of passengers who had taken
passage to Chagres were unable to get any conveyance

A Drawing by Prank Holland from a contemporary paintir
PLACER MINING SCENE IN '49.

TIDINGS OF A NEW ELDORADO 19
from there to California, and were compelled either to
remain at Panama for weeks, and in many instances for
months, or to return to New York or Boston.
This congested state of affairs rendered the Mail route
extremely objectionable. While thousands were waiting
for a passage at Panama, a large percentage of those
waiting passengers were sick with the Panama fever or
other tropical diseases, and many died from such diseases.
Numerous companies were organized during the
winter with the intention of pursuing the land route
across the extensive western plains and the Rocky
Mountains, which was thought could be accomplished
in from sixty to eighty days.
It will be remembered that all the country between the
Missouri river and the Sacramento valley, which was
called "The Great American Desert," was almost an un
broken wilderness. No white people were then allowed
to settle in that vast territory.
As soon as I had sufficient reasons for believing Cali
fornia to be what it had been represented to be as a gold /
bearing country, I was determined to go myself; and
after taking a prospective view of the difficulties and
dangers incident to a protracted detention on the Isthmus
and the tediousness of a long, monotonous journey via
Cape Horn, I finally concluded to cross the country by
land; believing it_would be atwntej^s^g_and_romantic
journey and one not entirely free from difficulties and
Hardships. The Granite State and California Mining and Trading
Company was organized in Boston in March, 1849, as a

20 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
joint stock company, with a constitution and by-laws ex
tremely strict and precise.
The above company numbered twenty-nine members,
principally hale, hearty, strong men, who were then about
to leave their homes and friends to seek their fortunes in
the newly discovered gold mines of California. The
names of these twenty-nine men were as follows :
Charles Hodgdon, Grovensor Allen, Dr. A. Haynes,
John Lyon, Lafayette Allen, Samuel W. Gage, Joseph
D. Gage, Thomas J. True, Alfred Williams, Cuthbert C.
Barkley, Kimball Webster, Erastus Woodbury, James Mf
Butler, Alden B. Nutting, Benjamin Ellenwood, James
W. Stewart, Jonathan Haynes, Charles W. Childs, Robert
Thom, Jacob Morris, Austin W. Pinney, J. P. Hoyt,
George Carlton, J. P. Lewis, Dr. Amos Batchelder and
Edward Moore.
Ten of these men were from the town of Pelham, N.
H., as follows: Capt. Joseph B. Gage, Samuel W. Gage,
Joseph D. Gage, Dr. Amos Batchelder, George Carlton,
James M. Butler, Austin W. Pinney, Robert Thom, Ben
jamin Ellenwood and Jacob Morris.
The majority of them were natives of Pelham and had
always resided there as neighbors. Several of the others
were from Boston, and a few from other towns of New
Hampshire and Massachusetts.
Each member of the company was required to pay into
the treasury the sum of three hundred dollars which, it
was estimated, would be sufficient to furnish the neces
sary outfit and cover all traveling expenses.
It was the boast of the officers and many of the mem
bers that the Granite State Company would carry with

TIDINGS OF A NEW ELDORADO 21
them and introduce into California New England prin
ciples. Pelham was my native town and although my
home at that time was in Hudson I was acquainted with
the larger number of the members from Pelham previous
to the organization of the company. With the exception
of the Pelham members they were all strangers to me.
I was twenty years of age on November 2, 1848, five
months before we started.
The officers at the time of starting were: George W.
Houston, President; Joseph B. Gage, Vice President;
Edward Moore, Secretary; Calvin S. Fifield, Treasurer;
besides a Board of Directors. Another company similar
to our own had been organized in Boston and numbered
about forty members and was called the Mount Washing
ton Company. These two companies mutually agreed to
travel in company until they should reach California.
The president of the last mentioned company, Captain
Thing, having several years previous traveled across the
country from Independence, Missouri, to Fort Hall and
Oregon, in company with some of the men of the Ameri
can Fur Company, agreed to pilot the Granite State Com
pany through to California for five dollars each.
Some two or three weeks previous to the time of the
starting of the two companies, Captain Thing and Lafa
yette F. Allen of Boston were selected to go to Indepen
dence, Mo., in advance of the two companies, with suf
ficient funds to purchase mules and cattle in numbers
adequate to supply the needs of the two companies in
their embarkation on the broad plains at such time as
they should arrive at the above mentioned place.
The necessary arrangements having all been matured

22 ¦ THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
and the members having provided themselves with guns,
pistols or revolvers, bowie-knives, and a plenty of pow
der, lead, caps, together with such other articles as they
thought they might need on their long journey and after
they should arrive at the "New Eldorado," we started on
our long journey.

CHAPTER II.
across the continent.
Tuesday, April 17, 1849.
We left Boston this morning at about 8 o'clock for
Albany, by way of the Western Railroad.
After shaking hands and bidding such of our friends
as had gathered at the station a good-bye, we seated our
selves in the cars, and as they began to move, the specta
tors that had gathered in and around the station sent up
three most hearty cheers for the California adventurers;
and they were very readily and heartily returned by us,
while we were started on our way with railroad speed
toward the land of gold.
We had a special car into which no intruder was
allowed to trespass, and I believe a more jolly company
of men has seldom been found. We arrived at Spring
field, Mass., at about noon where we were fortunate in
procuring a fine dinner, to which all did ample justice.
After we had eaten we were soon on our way again.
We arrived at Greenbush, N. Y., before night, where
we had some little trouble with the baggage master about
procuring our trunks, which had been checked at Boston,
as we had failed to procure the corresponding checks.
However, after some little dispute he gave them up and
we took the ferry boat for Albany on the opposite side
of the Hudson. 23

24 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
. It will be remembered that at that time no railroad
bridge spanned the Hudson River. Everything had to
be ferried over. At Albany we took our quarters at the
Mansion House.
I will here mention that on the road today we fell in
with George W. Houston, our president, who had started
in advance of the company for the purpose, as it was
said, of evading some officers who were in pursuit of him
for the object of detaining him until such time as he
should be able to liquidate some obligations.
Wednesday, April 18.
We left Albany at 12:30 p. m. in an immigrant train
for Buffalo. At Schenectady, about twenty miles from
Albany, we were detained two or three hours, waiting
for the passenger train to pass us. The fare by the im
migrant train was considerably less but we soon dis
covered that it was a slow and tedious experience of
travel, it being very slow. It was nearly night when we
left Schenectady and proceeded slowly on our way. The
night was cold and stormy — disagreeable in the extreme.
Some five or six inches of snow fell during the night,
and there being no fires in the cars, or no place to lie
down and nothing to eat, it was a very long, tedious
night. The night passed slowly away, and we arrived safely
at Rochester at about 10 o'clock on the 19th ; when, after
refreshing ourselves with a good dinner, we crossed the
Genesee River and took a view of the falls bearing the
same name.
Near the middle of the channel is a high projecting

ACROSS THE CONTINENT 25
point of rocks, where the celebrated Sam Patch is said
to have taken his last jump in presence of a large multi
tude of spectators ; and it was said that he was never
afterward seen. His motto was: "Some things may be
done as well as others."
Rochester has very excellent water power, and can
boast of some of the best flouring mills in the world.
Left Rochester at one o'clock, by the express train, for
Buffalo, at which place we arrived at five o'clock p. m.,
and put up at Bennett's Temperance Hotel, where we
found a very fine hotel and good accommodations.
Friday, April 20.
There being no steamers going west from Buffalo to
day, we were compelled to await another day for a pas
sage. A railroad had been built and opened from Buffalo
to Niagara Falls, a distance of twenty-two miles. The
larger number of the company took this trip and went
to the celebrated Falls, as a pleasant manner of passing
the few hours that we were compelled to wait. We left
Buffalo at two o'clock and rode twenty-two miles over
a very rough and uneven railroad, and arrived at the Falls
at about three o'clock.
On my arrival at the cataract, I descended the lofty
flight of stone steps numbering 290 — crossed the river
in a yawl boat to the Canada side — a short distance below
the Falls ; went under the sheet of water at Table Rock,
where I found a very damp atmosphere caused by the
rising spray — so very damp that I soon became completely
saturated.

26 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
I then went to the Suspension Bridge about two miles
below the Falls, and there recrossed the river.
This bridge had been built the year previous, and was
largely an experiment. It was a foot bridge suspended
by wire cables and stood 230 feet above the water. It
was about eight feet wide.
It seems useless for me to attempt a description of
Niagara Falls. To be fully appreciated it must be seen.
It is certainly one of Nature's wonderful curiosities.
Saturday, April 21.
We left Buffalo at 11 o'clock, a. m., in the elegant, first-
class steamer Canada, for Detroit, Michigan, with pleas
ant weather and a smooth lake.
The weather continued fine until about five o'clock,
when it commenced raining, and the lake became some
what rough. Sunday, April 22.
The weather today has been very fine.
At 7 o'clock we landed at Amherstbury, Canada, near
the mouth of the Detroit River; and at nine, landed at
the wharf at Detroit.
Detroit is situated on the west bank of the river bearing
the same name, about twenty miles above Lake Erie. It
rises gradually from the river and is a very pleasantly
situated city. In the forenoon I attended the Congrega
tional Church, where we heard an eloquent sermon by an
able divine.
In the afternoon I visited Windsor, Canada, situated
on the east side of Detroit River. This place contains

ACROSS THE CONTINENT 27
an old Jesuit church said to be more than one hundred
and fifty years old, and built by early French settlers.
In the evening a few of the Pelham boys visited Gen.
Lewis W. Cass at his elegant residence. We found Mr.
Cass at home, to whom we introduced ourselves. He was
a native of New Hampshire, and formerly had his home
there. He received us with the greatest cordiality and
respect, wishing us the greatest success in our enterprise,
and expressing a desire to accompany us himself.
We remain aboard the Canada tonight.
Monday, April 23.
We left Detroit at 7 :30 this morning by the Michigan
Central Railroad for New Buffalo, a small village on the
eastern shore of Lake Michigan, near the line between
the states of Michigan and Indiana. The country border
ing on this road is principally very heavily timbered
with oak, elm, hickory, ash, sycamore and other species.
The houses are mostly small "log cabins."
The soil is fertile but somewhat low and moist, and is
said to be well adapted to the propagation of the "shakes."
We arrived at New Buffalo at 7 130 in the evening, and
we intended to have taken the steamer for Chicago im
mediately, but the harbor being so much exposed and the
lake so very rough, it was impossible for the boat to
make a landing at the wharf with safety. Consequently,
we were compelled to await such time as the waters
should become more calm. At that time the railroad had
not been constructed around the south side of Lake
Michigan into Chicago.
This was a newly constructed place and but a small

28 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
village at that; and as passengers usually embarked for
Chicago almost immediately on their arrival here, the
people had made no preparation to accommodate people
over night. They had no accommodations to furnish
lodgings or meals in so large numbers, and we were un
able to obtain either. We were obliged to content our
selves in the cars during the night.
The night seemed long, cold and disagreeable, but at
length it passed away. Tuesday, April 24.
The weather this morning was very cold and windy.
The steamer from Chicago landed at the wharf at about
9 o'clock this morning, but, owing to the rough state of
the lake, she had not lain at tlie wharf over two or three
minutes before she parted her large hawser, and imme
diately left for Chicago, without her passengers.
At about ten o'clock in the evening, the lake having
become comparatively smooth, the steamer Detroit came
in. We soon after got aboard and were on our way for
Chicago. This was an old vessel and had a very ungentlemanly
list of officers.
It was not until after a long parley with the steward
and captain, that we were successful in obtaining any
refreshments. Immediately after supper, I lay down and
soon fell asleep, and, on awaking the next morning, I
found our boat moored at the wharf in Chicago. The
past two days had been our first really bitter experience.
Much of the same as bad or worse was in store for us.

across the continent 29
Wednesday, April 25.
Chicago at that time was a comparatively small city of
about 25,000 inhabitants.
The Michigan and Illinois Canal from Lake Michigan
at Chicago to the Illinois River at La Salle, which had
been under construction for twelve years or more, had
been finished the year previous, and was open for traffic.
We left Chicago at ten o'clock in the morning on a
packet by the above mentioned canal for La Salle, a point
situated at the head of navigation on the Illinois River.
The weather was fine and we found this to be a de
lightful mode of travel, but not very expeditious. The
packet was drawn by mules or horses traveling on the
tow-path. The passengers had a good view of the broad Illinois
prairies, as they passed leisurely through the country. A
large percentage of those prairies were then unbroken
and were the native home of the prairie hen. From
Chicago westward the country is so nearly level that
there are no locks in the canal for twenty-five miles.
At night we had the pleasure of seeing a burning
prairie for the first time.
Thursday, April 26.
Owing to a leakage in the canal the packet ran aground
about two o'clock this morning, where we were detained
four hours — until six. We arrived at La Salle about two
o'clock in the afternoon.
The canal passes along down a valley one mile or more
broad, with bluffs on each side. This valley has the ap
pearance of having been, at some remote period of the

30 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
past, the bed of a large river, and is thought by many
to have once been the outlet and drainage of the Great
Lakes, whose waters now form the great cataract of
Niagara. I went out with my gun about one mile west
of the city, where I found prairie chickens to be very
numerous on the prairie. They are as large or larger
than our New England partridge, which they very much
resemble. We left La Salle at 9 o'clock in the evening by the
steamer Princeton for St. Louis, by way of the Illinois
and Mississippi Rivers. Friday, April 27.
The weather is fine today. The Illinois River is a
stream about one-half mile wide, with low, timbered bot
tom lands on each side, which at this time are consider
ably inundated, the river being quite high.
The scenery along the river presents a very dreary ap
pearance at this time. It is neither beautiful nor grand.
We saw a few wild turkeys along near the shore, which
to us was something new.
Saturday, April 28.
At ten o'clock we entered the Mississippi River, and at
eleven, passed the junction of the Missouri with the
Mississippi. The river at this point is nearly two miles in width,
and has a current of about four miles an hour.
The upper Mississippi is a deep, clear stream, while
the Missouri has many shoals, and sand bars, and whose

ACROSS THE CONTINENT 31
waters are always muddy, so very muddy that they color
the Mississippi, from the junction to the Gulf of Mexico.
At one o'clock we arrived at St. Louis.
This flourishing city is situated on the west bank of
the Mississippi, and, owing to its commanding position,
will probably ever maintain a leading position among the
great cities of the West.
The streets, at this time, are quite muddy and filthy,
but they are of good width.
The population appears to be made up — as seems to us
New Englanders — of a heterogeneous collection of al
most every nation and tongue.
Tonight we engage passage to Independence, Missouri,
and go aboard the steamer Bay State, which is to leave
here tomorrow morning for St. Joseph, Mo.
Sunday, April 29.
We left St. Louis at ten o'clock and proceeded up the
river. At twelve we entered the turbid waters of the
Missouri. The Bay State is a good vessel, but is very much
crowded with Californians.
On her last voyage up the river she is said to have
lost quite a large number of her passengers by cholera,
which at present is quite prevalent on the western rivers.
At 4 o'clock we pass the beautiful city of St. Charles,
situated on the north bank of the river.
The bottom lands along the river are low and subject
to overflow ; consequently the settlements in sight of the
river are not very numerous, a few log cabins beeing seen
on the banks.

32 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
The channel of the river is very much obstructed by
snags and sand bars and is constantly changing, which
renders the navigation of the Missouri extremely difficult
and dangerous.
Monday, April 30.
We made about ninety miles during the day yesterday,
but moved slowly during the night.
Early this morning we passed the village of Hermon,
noted for its extensive wine distilleries. A little later
we passed Portland, situated on the north side of the
river. At three we touched at Jefferson City, situated
on the right bank of the Missouri River, 160 miles from
St. Louis. This is the capital of Missouri, and is very
pleasantly located on a high bank.
Tuesday, May i.
At 12 o'clock we passed Glasgow; at 5, Brunswick;
and at 7, Miami, all of which are apparently pleasant and
thriving little villages.
The banks of the river are much higher than they are
lower down, and consequently, we see more settlements.
Wednesday, May 2.
We saw a few small villages on the banks of the river.
At six o'clock p. m. we passed Lexington City, some
forty or fifty miles below Independence, our destination.
Thursday, May 3.
At two o'clock this morning we arrived at Independ
ence Landing, four miles from Independence.

Prom a Painting by Prank HoUand.
THE OVEELAND TRAIL TO CALIFORNIA.
"Westward the course of Empire takes its way."

CHAPTER III.
THE OVERLAND TRAIL.
This is the place where we are to be initiated into the
beauties of camp life; and to fit out and start with our
mule trains for California.
At 4 p. m. we had our tents pitched and, as we be
lieved, were perfectly well prepared for the first night in
camp, and partaking of a little supper — the first of our
own cooking — we lay down, all seeming anxious to try
our new manner of living.
We rested very comfortably for a time, but at length
it began to rain quite rapidly, and we felt much pleased
to find our tents so well adapted to shed water and pro
tect us from a heavy shower. ' \
Our joy, however, was soon after turned to disgust and
chagrin when we felt the water Detween us and the
ground, and on rising, we found our under blankets
thoroughly drenched with water. Many of us were
thoroughly wet to the skin. ¦- . '„¦"/
This first mishap of the kind to happen must be at
tributed to our own innocent ignorance, as our tents were
set on a slight declivity, and the necessity of trenching
them on the upper sides to turn the 'water away, did not
occur to us. However, we learned. this part of camp life
in such a manner as to never, be forgotten. .: ,-¦¦¦ ..''¦-«.,
It was learned in the same manner as we shall here
after, probably, learn many other new things before our
ng ';'-"¦: ;7 7 ^ '-¦ *.'- -

34 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
journey is ended. A few of our party begin to believe
that they have already seen almost enough of camp life
to satisfy them.
The company held the monthly meeting today for the
election of officers, for the month ensuing, at which
Joseph B. Gage was elected president, his term of office
to extend to June first. He seemed to feel very much
pleased with his new position.
The rain descended in torrents today.
In the afternoon, nine of us took our saddles, a tent
and some provisions and went about three miles in a
southerly direction, where a large number of our mules
were herded, for the purpose of trying our hand at
breaking them.
These mules had been purchased by the agents of the
two companies and were being kept by Mr. Sloan. We
set our tent at the place of herding and made an in-
effiectual effort to kindle a fire; and after several like
attempts, we were compelled to give it up and do without
a fire, and put up with some raw ham and hard bread for
our supper; after which we retired for a second night's
lodging in the tent.
Saturday, May 5.
The rain ceased last night, and it was fair and pleasant
this morning. Five of our mules had broken out of their
enclosure and gone astray. Some two or three of pur
party went in search of them, but returned tonight with
out success. ..•¦'••>• ¦',-.'•¦ - '{ ,' <<
We tried our skill today at breaking mules, but having

THE OVERLAND TRAIL 35
heretofore had no experience or acquaintance with the
long-eared animals, we found it to be a more difficult task
than we had supposed it to be, and consequently did not
make much progress.
They were young mules which had never been halter-
broken, and were almost as wild as the deer on the prairie.
A wild, unbroken mule is the most desperate animal
that I have ever seen.
I will pass over the time intervening between now and
May 26, or about three weeks, with the mention of a few
incidents that occurred during our stay at Independence,
and giving a slight description of the country surrounding
this place.
This being one of the principal fitting-out places for
California, it was crowded with immigrants from all parts
of the United States. Hundreds of ox-teams and mule-
teams were leaving here daily for California, besides
many pack-trains, coaches and almost every kind of team
or vehicle.
The Asiatic cholera was raging among the immigrants
to a large extent.
Many were daily falling victims to this dreaded
scourge, while many others were becoming disheartened
and were turning back to their homes. Everything here
was bustle and wild confusion. Much of the weather
was rainy and disagreeable, with occasionally one of the
most terrific thunder showers that I ever witnessed.
We tried in vain to break our mules by putting large
packs of. sand on their backs and leading them about, but
it availed very little, as the second trial was as bad as the
first ; and they were nearly as wild and vicious when we

36 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
started on our journey as they were when they were first
packed. Several of our company were sick with the cholera,
while a number of the Mount Washington company died
with the same dread disease. These adverse circumstances
detained us somewhat longer than we wished, and much
longer than it was for our interest to remain; but as it
seemed unavoidable, we were compelled to content our
selves as best we could. But we were looking for better
days. Joseph B. Gage continuel to fill the office of presi
dent. The surrounding country is very beautiful with a rich,
productive soil, much of it being a high, rolling prairie.
Timber is somewhat scarce, but it is of a superior
quality. There are some small plantations, principally cultivated
by colored people, who in almost all cases appear to be
well satisfied with their condition in life.
On May 26th, we had moved out about twenty miles
from Independence and were prepared for a start. In
dependence is but a short distant from where Kansas City
now stands. (Distance to here, 20 miles.)
Saturday, May 26.
We commenced packing our mules early in the morn
ing, but owing to their wild and unbroken state, and be
ing unacquainted with packing, we were not prepared to
start until five o'clock in the evening, when we left our
old camp-ground and travelled three miles and again
camped. (Distance, 3 miles.)

THE OVERLAND TRAIL 37
This appeared like a very tedious way to get to Cali
fornia, a distance of more than 2,000 miles.
Sunday, May 27.
We commenced packing again this morning and were
prepared to start at about noon. This is quite an im
provement in point of time over yesterday.
It took as many men to pack a mule as could stand
around it, and we were obliged to choke many of them,
before we could get the saddle upon their backs.
They would kick, bite and strike with their fore feet,
making it very dangerous to go about them. Several of
our company were quite badly disabled by working with
them, so that they were unable to assist in packing.
We started about noon and traveled about eight miles,
over a high, rolling prairie, and camped. Today we
crossed the western boundary of Missouri and entered
the Indian Territory. (Distance, 8 miles.)
Monday, May 28.
This morning we started at 9 o'clock and traveled
eighteen miles over a rolling prairie country, and camped
near a small Indian village. Very little timber of any
kind is found in this section, but we find plenty of grass
and water.
The soil is deep and of first-rate quality; and at no
distant day this must become one of the richest and most
productive agricultural sections of the country. (Dis
tance, 18 miles.)

38 the gold seekers of '49
Tuesday, May 29.
Leave camp at 10 o'clock and travel twelve miles across
a prairie and camp in a very pleasant place, where we find
plenty of good grass and water, and also a scanty supply
of wood.
We saw about a dozen wild horses ; but it was impos
sible to approach near them. Very little game is seen
near the road. (Distance, 12 miles.)
Wednesday, May 30.
Owing to some of our horses and mules straying away
last night and taking the road toward Missouri, we re
mained encamped today. The horses, mules and cattle
belonging to the two companies number more than three
hundred. It was necessary to guard them nights, and
each member was obliged to take his turn on guard, reg
ularly, a part of the night, once in two or three nights.
The cattle that we were driving were designed to fur
nish us with our principal dependence for provisions dur
ing our long journey. They were mostly young cattle
and not very large. When we were in need of some
provisions we would have one killed and dressed, and the
meat was divided among the different messes.
We were fortunate enough to recover our mules and
horses before night.
I went across about three miles to an Indian village.
They have very comfortable log cabins, and were at work
turning up the prairie with the plow ; and apparently
/ some of them have very good farms, and appear to be
partially civilized, and seem to be in a fair way to give

• THE OVERLAND. TRAIL 39
up their former nomadic way of life in exchange for
civilization, and gain their livelihood by tilling the soil,
instead of pursuing the chase. This, probably, is one of
the most civilized tribes, and the great majority of our
wild Indians must be expected to cling to their ancient
manners and customs for many years in the future.
Thursday, May 31.
The weather is fair and pleasant.
Edward Moon, Esq., secretary of our company, being
very much out of health, turned back and left the com
pany for Boston.
This is the second one of our company who has given
up going to California and returned to his home.
Many are turning back with their teams, having become
discouraged in anticipation of the long and tedious jour
ney before them; large numbers are dying daily of
cholera and other fatal diseases.
Leave camp at one o'clock and travel about four miles,
where we cross a small river running south; and later,
we cross a low, wet, swampy prairie about one and one-
half miles in width, after which we travel six miles and
camp. Land today principally prairie, with some cottonwood
timber along the streams. Soil excellent. (Distance
traveled, 12 miles.) Friday, June i.
A beautiful morning. We leave camp at 9 o'clock this
morning and travel about twenty miles, over a rolling

40 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
prairie, without wood or water. Camp in the afternooir
about one-half miles west of the road.
We have lost four or five of our cattle, they having
left the herd and strayed away. The mules are now be
coming very tame and docile, but many of them have
very sore backs.
Some of our mules are packed with more than two
hundred pounds, which is much too heavy for so young
animals. (Distance today, 20 miles.)
Saturday, June 2.
We delayed starting until 2 o'clock, for the reason
that two of the Mount Washington men that are traveling
with us were taken with the cholera during last night.
We leave them with Dr. A. Haynes with assistants and
travel twelve miles and camp on the north bend of a small
stream, about fifteen miles from the Kansas River.
One of the cholera patients died at 5 o'clock this even
ing. The other seems some better and appears to be in
a fair way to recover. Sunday, June 3.
Fair and warm. Thermometer 86 degrees in the
shade. The last of the two cholera patients died this
morning at 9 o'clock. They both died at the camp where
we left them, twelve miles east.
We remain here today where we find plenty of good
wood, water and grass. The men of both companies are
now in good health.
The two men that died of the cholera were large, heavy,

THE OVERLAND TRAIL. 41
strong men in good health, and were taking their turn
at driving cattle on Friday. They were stricken with
cholera on Friday night. One of the men died Saturday
afternoon, and the other died Sunday morning at 9
o'clock. They were buried on the wild prairie. There
are hundreds of the immigrants dying constantly — more
or less every day. i
Monday, June 4.
Leave camp at 10 o'clock for the Kansas River. We
cross two or three small streams and pass some Indian
settlements, and arrive at the Kaw River ferry in season
to cross our horses and mules and a part of our baggage
before night.
The ferry-boat is made from hewn planks framed to
gether, bearing a very strong resemblance to a raft.
The river is about 650 feet in width, with a rapid and
muddy current. This is one of the three or four streams
that contribute to render the waters of the Missouri so
very muddy.
On the right bank of the river is situated a small Indian
village, known as Uniontown, which, together with the
Indian population, contains a few white men who have
taken Indian women for their wives.
Two or three of the Mount Washington company are
seriously attacked with cholera, but they recovered dur
ing the night. (Distance, 15 miles.)
Tuesday, June 5.
It was quite late in the afternoon before we had suc
ceeded in getting all of our mules, horses, cattle and

42 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
baggage over the river, consequently we did not move our
camp today.
The Pottawatomie tribe of Indians that inhabit this sec
tion of the country is quite numerous and is in a partial
state of civilization. They are cultivating the soil to con
siderable extent and raise wheat, corn and potatoes in
moderate quantities. We purchased of them some flour
and two or three Indian ponies.
One or two of our company are talking some of leav
ing our company and joining some other party, but they
concluded to continue with us.
Wednesday, June 6.
We leave camp at 12 o'clock and travel 18 miles. We
passed a Catholic mission erected for the purpose of
Christianizing the Indian"" tribes and converting them to
the Catholic religion. Indian settlements are quite numer
ous here. Rattlesnakes are seen in large numbers.
We camped in the evening, after which a very violent
shower came up.
The wind blew so violently that all of our tents were
leveled to the earth over our heads, which was not very
agreeable. However, we are compelled to make the best
of all such misfortunes, and are becoming more accus-
timed to the endurance of hardships than at first. (Dis
tance, 18 miles.)
Thursday, June 7.
We start at 9 o'clock this morning and after traveling
four miles, cross the Little Vermillion River.

THE OVEBLAND TRAIL 43
We halt for dinner at io o'clock, and camp at 6 o'clock.
The country through which we are traveling is very
beautiful, it being a high, rolling prairie covered with a
fine growth of grass, and watered by numerous cool
springs of good water, with some small streams. (Dis
tance, 16 miles.) Friday, June 8.
Strike camp at 8 o'clock, travel until noon, when we
unpack our mules and remain until 2 o'clock. Camp at
6 in the evening.
The road is dry and hard and almost as good as a
turnpike. The ox-teams make as good time as our mule train.
(Distance traveled, 20 miles.)
Saturday, June 9.
Leave camp at 8 :30, and soon after cross the Big Ver
million River, which is a stream of considerable size, with
a very rapid current.
Halt for dinner at noon and camp at night without
wood. The water is considerably impregnated with
alkali, so very strong that it feels slippery.
There is said to be much of this kind of water on the
plains. It is destructive to health and even life, both
to man and animals. (Distance, 20 miles.)
Sunday, June io.
Break camp before breakfast and travel twelve miles,
where we find an abundance of wood and good water.

44. Some returning Californians dined with us today, hav
ing traveled about 150 miles beyond this point, when they
became discouraged and began to retrace their footsteps.
^yTfee1 'prospects of reaching California certainly look
N somewhat discouraging at the present time.
The great bulk of the immigration, which is very large,
is in advance of us. That very much dreaded scourge,
the Asiatic cholera, is making such sad havoc among the
Californians that almost every camp-ground is converted
into a burial-ground, and at many places twelve or fifteen
graves may be seen in a row.
Almost every traveler that we meet, who has ever been
west of the Rocky Mountains, gives it as his opinion that
there is not grass enough in that region of country to
sustain one-half of the stock that is now on the Califor
nia trail ; and they are of the opinion that the present
immigration cannot reach California this season.
Much trouble is also anticipated by many from some
of the western tribes of Indians, who are said to be hos
tile to the whites. The Mormons who settled near the
California trail, in the Great Lake valley, in 1847, are also
much feared by a large number of those from Missouri.
All these circumstances and conditions combined are
of sufficient weight to frighten many and cause them to
banish the bright, golden visions which allured them from
their homes, with the bright anticipations of soon becom
ing wealthy.
The principal anxiety that seems to fill the minds of
such at the present time is to reach, as soon as possible,
their former homes; and consequently, while the great

THE OVERLAND TRAIL 45
S majority. are moving west, a large number are traveling
east. To meet so many who have been farther westward on
the trail, and who have turned backward, and are now
seeking their former homes, has its influence upon a
large number that would otherwise proceed and causes
them to also reverse their course.
I have, myself, heard all these discouragements many
times rehearsed, and weighed the matter, and have found
conclusions as follows:
I started for California anticipating that we should
meet many hardships, privations and dangers on our /
long journey, and, as yet, we have experienced nothing
of a nature any more severe than we had reason to ex- (
pect ; and as for what we may find ahead of us we know
but little of. I am fully determined to proceed as far
in the direction of California as it is possible for me to
go, and not to return until I have seen the place I set/
out to reach.
It seems to be a very curious fact that the immigrants
from the state of Missouri — which by the way, were
more numerous than from any other one state — seem to
suffer more from the cholera than almost all the other
immigration combined.
I know of no good reason why this should be so. They
have had their homes on the frontier and, consequently,
have been subjected to more exposure and hardships than
any other class now ,on, the California trail. (Distance
traveled, 12 miles.) ','

46 the gold seekers of '49
Monday, June ii.
The first experience worthy of note this morning was
a very heavy shower. This lasted two hours and was
accompanied with a most terrific gale, which very soon
levelled every tent in our camp, leaving us nothing under
which we could shelter ourselves. Consequently, we were
all most thoroughly drenched.
Start in the afternoon and travel fifteen miles over a
smooth prairie, and camp. (Distance, 15 miles.)
Tuesday, June 12.
Weather very fine. Leave camp at 9 o'clock, and travel
eight miles and camp until three, when we again move on
nine miles farther, and camp for the night. (Distance
traveled, 17 miles.)
Wednesday, June 13.
A shower with a heavy wind occurred at about mid
night.
Our tents withstood the gale, but the rain was driven
through in such large quantities as to drench us
thoroughly. At about 2 o'clock another shower occurred with a
wind much stronger and more severe than the first, which
levelled all our tents to the ground, notwithstanding the
exertions of us all to keep them standing; and we were
again left without a shelter, and compelled to pass the
balance of the night as best we could — some standing in
the open air with their backs to the storm, while others

THE OVERLAND TRAIL 47
were lying under their prostrate tents with water all
around them two or three inches deep.
These showers are accompanied with very violent elec
trical displays and very heavy thunder. They are the
most violent and terrifying of anything of the kind I
have ever witnessed.
About daylight we managed to get fires started, and
before noon dried ourselves and our camp equipage al
most completely.
We started at noon and traveled eighteen miles. The
land through which we passed is apparently very fertile,
but is almost destitute of timber of any kind. Camp on
a small stream of clear, pure water.
Thursday, June 14.
Leave camp at seven in the morning and travel until
eleven o'clock. We take dinner on the bank of the Big
Blue River — a fork of the Kansas. We start again at
two o'clock and camp at six on the Big Blue. (Distance,
25 miles.) Friday, June 15.
Weather fair and cool. Travel up the Blue River to
day. This is a most beautiful stream; has a rich and
fertile soil, with considerable good timber. (Distance,
25 miles.)
Saturday, June 16.
Decamp at eight o'clock and travel ten miles to the
point where the trail leaves the Blue River. We dine
here.

48 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
The road from this place to the Platte River is through
prairie country destitute of wood. We travel fifteen
miles in the afternoon and camp on the prarie, without
wood, and with quite poor water. n
Sunday, June 17.
Travel twelve miles in the forenoon to the Platte, or
Nebraska River. In the afternoon we go up the river
eight miles and camp near Fort Kearney, at the head
of Grand Island. This island is 52 miles in length and
appears to be well timbered.
The Platte is a large river, being from one to two miles
wide, and has a very rapid current. Its waters are so
very muddy that after a bucketful has settled, an inch
of mud, or sediment will appear at the bottom. It has a
bed of sand which is constantly in motion. (Distance
traveled, 20 miles.)
Monday, June 18.
We remain here today.
The weather is fair and warm. Thermometer 86
degrees in the shade. Grass is not very abundant.
We repair our pack-saddles and other equipage which
has become considerably out of repair. The backs and
shoulders of many of our mules have become very sore
and in a serious condition, many of them having lost large
patches of skin, and the prospect, at present, seems to
be that few of them will survive to reach California the
present season.
We have made an inspection of our packs today in

Iiii ijp^G£fMta^

BAY OP SAN FRANCISCO.

Prom an Old Painting

THE OVERLAND TRAIL 49
view of trying to make them lighter, if possible, but
could discover very little in them that the members were
willing to discard.
We have, for one thing, a patent "filter," the weight
of which is about 30 pounds, which has been of no use
to us, and the prospect now is that it will never be of
any benefit whatever. We have some iron spades that
probably will be of no benefit to any one.
We have also some large, heavy picks which we have
brought all the way from Boston, and also shovels.
These may be useful in the mines, but it does not seem
to be feasible to pack them 2000 miles on the sore backs
of mules.
There are, however, such a large number in the com
pany that are so bitterly opposed to leaving any such
article that they will defeat any such measure proposed;
and even call all such foolish who believe it would be
wise to lighten the loads of our poor mules in such a
manner. Tuesday, June 19.
Weather fair and very windy.
Remain here today. I visit Fort Kearney, which is
about one and one-half miles distant from our camp.
The fort and other buildings are constructed of
adobe, or sun-burned bricks, with one exception. The
fort was established about two years since.
A large number of immigrants are encamped about the
fort, at this time, and also a company of United States
cavalry. It is said at Fort Kearney that the wagons
passed here already this season, en route for California,

50 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
number 5,400, and also three pack trains. This point is
about 350 miles from Independence, Mo.
Wednesday, June 20.
We packed in the afternoon and after traveling four
miles, we encountered a very fierce shower,, which
thoroughly drenched every one of us. A little later an
other shower was encountered, which was much more
severe than the first, and which was accompanied with
some hail and a terrific wind.
Camp at the first good camping place after the showers.
Blankets and all clothes thoroughly wet and no oppor
tunity for drying them. It is certainly uncomfortable
lodgings. Since leaving Independence, until the last two or three
days, my health has not been very good. (Distance, 10
miles. '
Thursday, June 21.
Travel nine miles in the forenoon and six in the after
noon. Our course is up the Platte River, the valley of
which is nearly level and is several miles wide on either
side. We camp tonight where there is no wood on the
mainland, and we waded a branch of the river about
twenty rods to an island to procure it. The water is not
deep, but the current is quite rapid. There are numerous
islands in the river. Friday, June 22.
Travel 12 miles in the forenoon, halt two hours and
dine. Travel eight miles in the afternoon and camp. AH
in good health.

the overland trail 51
Saturday, June 23.
Travel up the River Platte today 20 miles, and camp
without wood, but find plenty of "Buffalo chips," which,
if dry, are a very good substitute for fuel.
Sunday, June 24.
Weather fair and warm. Thermometer stands at 95
degrees, at noon, in the shade.
I traveled south, back from the river, about four miles
to the bluffs, today. Owing to the very clear, transparent
atmosphere, no one who was not acquainted with it could
believe the distance was more than one mile at most. I
did not believe it when I left camp, after having been
told by those who had traveled the distance and back.
These bluffs are a succession of sand hills, rising
abruptly from the level plain, along the Platte on both
sides, and extend back from the river a long distance.
Antelopes are very plentiful, but are not easily killed
on the level prairie. There is little timber or wood here. ,
The soil is sandy, but produces a very good grass.
Monday, June 25.
Broke camp at 5 o'clock in the morning and traveled
eight miles, where we halted until two in the afternoon.
Travel three and one-half hours in the afternoon and
camp on the bank of the river, where we found a good
supply of wood. Mosquitoes are more plentiful here than
I have ever seen before. I would judge there are more
than forty bushels of these pests to the acre, and they are _
of a very large breed. (Distance, 20 miles.)

52 the gold seekers of '49
Tuesday, June 26.
Started at 5 o'clock this morning. We had traveled
about ten miles, when the startling cry of "Buffalo ahead"
was heard from those in advance.
This was the first buffalo herd seen by our company,
and every one was anxious to gratify his curiosity by
a sight of a real live American bison. On looking ahead
about two miles, and not far from the immigrant trail,
a. herd of about one hundred buffaloes could be seen,
quietly grazing.
A number of the company that could be spared from
the train, immediately left the train and gave chase to
the herd. The buffaloes on seeing their approach, imme
diately started toward the sand hills, and soon disap
peared from sight. The men who were in pursuit fol
lowed them, and we soon after camped on the bank of
the River Platte.
' Soon after we had unpacked the mules, we saw four
large buffaloes emerging from the brush, not more than
100 rods distant from our camp. Our horses were all
unsaddled, and before we could catch and saddle them,
the large animals were a long distance from us.
One of our men, Mr. Hodgdon, soon came in and
stated that he had shot and killed a buffalo, about four
miles distant from our camp, in the sand hills. After
dinner, a party of four or five with two extra mules, went
out to dress the slaughtered bison, and to bring the meat
into our camp; and the balance of the company packed
up the camp and started. During the afternoon, we
killed a buffalo calf, four or five weeks old.

THE OVERLAND TRAIL 53
We ate buffalo meat for supper, cooked with "Buffalo
chips." The meat is very coarse grained and of a dark
color, and is very good, but in my estimation, is much
inferior to good beefsteak. They are said not to be so
good at this season of the year as they will be later, when
they will be more fleshy. (Distance, 18 miles.)
Wednesday, June 27.
We started at 8 o'clock and traveled four miles in the
forenoon. In the afternoon we go up the river to the
South Platte.
I went up the river about three miles for some wood.
Plenty of buffalo. (Distance, 17 miles.)
Thursday, June 28.
Fair weather. Packed in the morning and prepared to
ford the south fork of the Platte River.
The stream is about three-fourths of a mile in width
and from one foot to three feet deep. The current is
rapid and water very muddy. From its appearance, any
one might suppose the stream was 20 feet deep.
I crossed and recrossed it on horseback three times.
We had no very bad luck in crossing. Some of our packs
became wet and we unpacked on the west side of the
stream and dried them. We started at one o'clock and
traveled 12 miles in the afternoon and camped without
wood, but found plenty of good, dry "Buffalo chips."
(Distance, 13 miles.)

54 the gold seekers of '49
Friday, June 29.
Start at 6.30 o'clock and finding neither wood nor
water, we traveled seven hours, when we halt and make
a search for water, and find a spring about one mile from
camp. This was good fortune. (Distance, 20 miles.)
Saturday, June 30.
Weather warm and dry. Travel ten miles in the fore
noon and eight in the afternoon. One of our company
killed a buffalo this afternoon, and after we had camped,
Joseph B. Gage, with two or three others, with mules,
went back to bring in the meat ; but before they had ar
rived at the place where it was slain, they saw a band
of Indians riding toward them, and they became
frightened and returned to camp with all possible speed.
The next morning, a party of Sioux Indians came into
our camp, and desired the doctor should give them some
medicine, stating that their camp was on the opposite
side of the Platte, and that the smallpox was raging
among them.
They were perfectly friendly and said they had no in
tention of frightening our men away from the buffalo
meat, but that they wished to talk with them and get
some medicine; and also stated that they made all the
friendly signs that they could think of to have them stop.
The doctor supplied them with medicine and they left
our camp. (Distance, 18 miles.)

the overland trail 55.
Sunday, July i.
We did not move camp today.
The land is not so level here as it is on the Lower
Platte. Soil sandy ; wood scarce ; weather fair and dry.
Monday, July 2.
We started in the morning and soon passed through
Ash Hollow, so-called. It derives its name from large
quantities of red ash timber found here.
We dine at the foot of Castle Bluffs. These bluffs of
sandstone rise abruptly several hundred feet, and having
been exposed to the weather for many thousand years,
have been transformed into shapes very much resembling
ancient castles, hence the name. Camp on the Platte.
The road today has been very sandy. (Distance, 23
miles. Tuesday, July 3.
Break camp at half past six in the morning and travel
four hours in the forenoon and eleven miles in the after
noon. Found the road sandy. Camp on the bank of the
North Platte. (Distance, 25 miles.)
Wednesday, July 4.
The Fourth of July will remind an American of his
home wherever he may be or however far he may be
separated from it. Early in the morning we fired sev
eral rounds, and made as much noise as possible in honor
of the day of Independence. We started in the morning
and soon passed an encampment where we had the

56 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
pleasure of beholding the "Star Spangled Banner" float
ing in the cool breeze. We traveled a few miles farther
and passed another camp with two large American flags
waving above it.
We halted at noon within sight of Court House Rock.
This rock is several hundred feet in length and at a dis
tance bears a strong resemblance to a large building with
a cupola. It is said to be about 12 miles from the road,
but to measure the distance with the eye, a person would
judge it to be not more than one mile distant. The name
of J. J. Astor, with the date 1798, is said to have been
carved there, and that it may still be seen. Mr. Astor
was one of the American fur traders to cross the con
tinent. We camp seven miles south of Chimney Rock. This
rock rises about 255 feet and in form very much re
sembles a chimney. Standing as it does on a level plain,
it can be seen 25 or 30 miles away. Its material is sand
stone and may easily be worked or cut. (Distance, 20
miles.) Thursday, July 5.
Weather pleasant. Traveled iS miles up the Platte
and camped. Grass is quite scarce here.
Friday, July 6.
We passed "Scott's Bluffs" in the forenoon which pre
sent a ver,y peculiar appearance. We found plenty of
wood at noon — the first we have had for four days.
Camp at a fine spring, where we also find an abun
dance of fuel but a scarcity of grass. In the afternoon

THE OVERLAND TRAIL 51/
we have a view of "Laramie Peak," distant more than
50 miles west. Camp at night on Horse Creek, where
we find good grass and water. (Distance, 25 miles.)
Saturday, July 7.
Traveled 20 miles, principally over a barren country,
and camped. Sunday, July 8.
Weather fair with a high wind.
Start in the morning and after traveling three hours
we reach Laramie River, which we ford with no other
difficulty than to have some of our packs considerably
wet. This stream, although small, is very rapid and has
a gravelly bottom with clear water.
We soon after passed Fort Laramie and camp two
miles above the fort on Laramie River. By recrossing
the river we have good grass for our horses, mules and
cattle. (Distance, 15 miles.)
Monday, July 9.
Remained here today.
Before leaving Boston we had light, strong trunks man
ufactured — two for each pack mule — in which to pack
our clothing, provisions, etc. They were made as port
able as was possible to insure sufficient strength. We
now, after packing them about 700 miles, get a vote of
the company to break them up and make bags from the
leather coverings. This measure some of us have be
lieved to be a wise plan for a month past, but those who

5S THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
first favored the plan were laughed at by the majority.
We have been packing thirty pounds of dead weight to
each mule which can be dispensed with. The first thought
of packing these trunks — two to each mule — to Califor
nia, was a sad oversight by Captain Thing, who sug
gested them. Tuesday, July io.
Weather fair and warm ; thermometer 98 degrees in
the shade. Remained here today. In the evening I went
46wn to the fort. The outside wall is built of adobe, or
sun-burnt bricks, and encloses about one-half acre. The
buildings are within the enclosure. The fort was estab
lished several years since by the American Fur Company
for the purpose of trading with the Indians, and was
sold a short time since by that company to the United
States Government, and is now occupied by Colonel San
derson with a regiment of United States Cavalry. He
is now engaged in building a mill, house, barracks, etc.
Wednesday, July ii.
We still remain here.
All the camp grounds near the .fort are literally cov
ered with wagon irons, clothing, beans, bacon, pork and
provisions of almost all kinds, which have been left by
the advance immigration to lighten their loads and
facilitate their speed.
Thursday, July 12.
Decamp at 9 o'clock and after traveling 21 miles, we
camp on a small stream. Grass poor.

the overland trail . 59
Friday, July 13.
Weather cool. Started at seven in the morning and
after 13 miles' travel, we found a most excellent spring
at which we dined.
In the afternoon we cross a small stream and camp
on the Platte, where we find good grass. (Distance, 24
miles.) Saturday, July 14.
Travel 13 miles in the forenoon and 12 in the after
noon and camped on a small river. Grass scarce.
Sunday, July 15.
Weather fair and warm. Remain in camp today. We
have found plenty of wood since we left Laramie. The
country through this part is hilly and broken ; soil barren
and sterile. The health of tlie company is good. The
cholera followed the immigration to near Fort Laramie,
making sad ravages in very many companies ; but it
seems at last to have slackened its hold and seems to have
become extinct. For the last week we have seen but few
graves by the roadside.
Many were the men who left their homes for Cali
fornia last spring, with bright prospects of reaping a
golden harvest within a few months and returning to
their home and friends. But alas! their hopes were
blasted, and instead they have left their bones to bleach
upon the great plains of Nebraska, with not even a stone
to mark their resting place. Many, who one day have
been in the enjoyment of perfect health, the next have
been in their graves.

60 the gold seekers of ?49
Monday, July 16.
We started in the morning and in good season, and
drove 17 miles before dinner, and eight more in the after
noon. The land over which we have traveled today is
, very barren and produces very little, excepting wild sage
weeds with a very little grass, which at this time is
perfectly dry. Tuesday, July 17.
Started in the morning and traveled eight miles to the
lower ferry on the North Platte, where we camped.
Here we found a poor ferry boat in which we carried our
packs to the opposite side of the stream, and caused all
of our animals to swim over. We lost one mule by be
ing drowned, with which exception we were very fortu
nate. The stream at this point is very rapid and deep.
Travel 12 miles in the afternoon over a barren, sandy
country and camp on the Platte.
Wednesday, July 18.
Travel 18 miles up the river and camp.
The land is poor and many of our mules are in poor
condition; and some of the. weakest appear as if they
would be unable to proceed a great distance further.
Large quantities of bacon and other kinds of pro
visions have been left by immigrants by the side of the
road when teams became exhausted, and may be seen
in large heaps on almost every camp ground.
Farming and mining implements of all descriptions,
mechanics' tools, and wagons, all go to make up the list
of abandoned property.

the overland trail 61
Thursday, July 19.
Travel 12 miles and camp on the North Platte, two
miles above the upper ferry, at a point where the road
leaves the river.
In the afternoon we have very fine sport catching a
sort of white fish from the river which are very plentiful
at this place, and are a fine fish.
Friday, July 20.
We did not start today until noon.
The filter of which I have before spoken has been
packed all these many miles from Independence on the
mule of George Carlton. He has spoken in favor of
leaving it several times, but the consent of some of the
company could not be had. What could be done? The
poor mule was getting weak and poor.
Mr. Carlton took the filter from the pack and put it
into a thicket and informed two or three whom he well
knew were in favor of leaving it behind, and said if we
would "keep dark" he would let it remain there. So the
filter was left behind when we started.
In the afternoon we traveled 11 miles and camped at
a spring. Saturday, July 21.
Start in the morning and in ten miles' travel come to
some very strong alkali water. Travel 5 miles farther
and dine at a good spring.
Go 5 niiles in the afternoon. Wild sage is the principal
production here.

62 the gold seekers op '49
Sunday, July 22.
Weather fine. Start in the morning and travel 20
miles. Camp on the Sweetwater River, a branch of the
Platte, one mile above Independence Rock.
The country between the Platte and Sweetwater Rivers
is very barren, destitute of timber, with ver.y little grass
or other vegetation, except wild sage. Much of the water
is alkali, poisonous to cattle and horses and is entirely
unfit for use. When water has evaporated here, a sub
stance resembling saleratus may be gathered up in large
quantities. In some cases it may be found on the sur
face three or four inches in thickness, white and pure as
the finest pearlash manufactured ; and on trial we found
it equally as good for the purpose of making bread. We
have seen large numbers of dead cattle by the roadside
the past three days. Monday, July 23.
Remain encamped here today for the benefit of our
tired mules.
We had a fine shower in the afternoon. A buffalo was
killed by one of our company yesterday which affords us
plenty of meat. Tuesday, July 24.
The majority of our company is not ready to advance,
consequently we must remain here another day.
The excuse is made that it is necessary for the animals
to recruit, but the grass is poor, and I believe the animals
will gain very little. A short stop might be of some bene-

THE OVERLAND TRAIL 63
fit, but to remain two or three days where there is very
little grass seems like wasting time to no good purpose.
The company is too large to travel in one body. Some
are for going ahead, while others are in favor of resting.
A company of ten men is quite large enough to travel
expeditiously, but our company is so situated that it can
not well be dissolved at present.
Wednesday, July 25.
We break camp and travel up the Sweetwater River
an hour, which brings us to the Devil's Gate. This is a
fissure in the rock in the Sweetwater River, thirty or
forty feet wide, two or three hundred feet long, and per
haps two hundred feet high, through which the river
passes, and is quite a natural curiosity.
Travel 20 miles and camp on the river.
Thursday, July 26.
Travel 10 miles in the forenoon and 10 in the after
noon, continuing up the Sweetwater. There is a range
of mountains of each side of the valley. On the right
they are composed almost entirely of barren rocks, desti
tute of vegetation. On the left they have some soil and
some vegetation. Friday, July 27.
Start in the morning and after six miles' travel the
road leaves the river and we travel 16 miles farther be
fore we find either water or grass, when we reach the
river again.

64 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
We travel up the river two miles further and camp.
Grass poor. The land along the Sweetwater is very
poor,, with the exception of a little bottom land. Today
we had a view of the snow capped mountains — the Wind
River Mountains. Saturday, July 28.
Travel up the river 8 miles, where we find good grass,
which we have not had the pleasure of seeing before for
several days. Sunday, July 29.
Weather fair and warm.
We remained encamped here today. I went out from
camp a short distance into a small piece of timber and
on my return a young deer ran out before me and I
shot it with my pistol through the heart. This is the
first deer that has been killed by the company. Mr.
Lyon also killed a Mountain Sheep, or Bighorn.
Monday, July 30.
As we didn't move our camp today some of us went
deer hunting. Deer were quite plentiful, and J. B. Gage
killed one, which we dressed and carried four, miles to
camp. I fired several shots with buckshot but did not
succeed in killing any game.
The country in this vicinity is broken and mountain
ous; soil is rocky, sandy and not ver,y productive.

THE GOLDEN GATE.

the overland trail 65
Tuesday, July 31.
Weather fine — warm days and cool nights. Break
camp at a late hour and leave the Sweetwater River, and
in 16 miles' travel we intersect it again, where we unpack
our mules and dine. Grouse are very plentiful in this
region. Remain two hours, after which we travel up the
river six miles and camp where we find good grass. The
Sweetwater is a fork of the Platte and derives its name
from the peculiar taste of the water.
Wednesday, August 1.
We are now near the summit of the Rocky Mountains,
at an elevation of about 7,000 feet above the Gulf of
Mexico. There was a heavy frost this morning.
Traveled up the river 1 1 miles in the forenoon. In
the afternoon we traveled up the river five miles farther
and camped on a small branch of the Sweetwater. We
left the road today with the intentioa of taking a straight
course through the mountains to Fort Hall, thereby
avoiding the circuitous route by the way of Fort Bridges.
Captain Thing, our guide, states that he once traveled
the route and in his opinion we shall find good grass and
water, and that there is an Indian trail through which he
thinks he can follow. The main road is now. several
miles to the south of us. This is. known, as the South
Pass of the Rocky Mountains, i Many suppose it to be
a narrow, precipitous pass with high mountains on either
side; but it is directly the reverse, it being almost a level
plain, extending many miles to the north and to the

66 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
south; and were it not that the waters divide near this
place, and a portion flow to the Gulf of Mexico, and
another portion to the Pacific Ocean through the Colo
rado River and the Gulf of California, any one would
not believe that they were standing on the summit of the
Rocky Mountains.
The altitude of the South Pass is said to be 7,200
feet, as taken by Col. J. C. Fremont about two years
since. Thursday, August 2.
The weather was so cold last night that water in our
buckets was frozen over this morning.
Traveled 13 miles over a sandy, barren country and
intersect the Little Sandy River, a small stream coursing
south. After camping I went out and shot a dozen
grouse. Several others were out at the same time and
killed as many as I did.
Friday, August 3.
Traveled 9 miles to the Big Sandy River and camped.
Land poor and somewhat broken; destitute of timber
with the exception of small willows near the streams.
Saturday, August 4.
Started this morning for Green River and traveled 30
miles over a barren desert, destitute of both grass and
water. The country is not very broken, and we had
no difficulty in traveling wherever we chose. We inter
sected Green River at a point where grass was abundant

THE OVERLAND TRAIL 67
and wood plentiful. Mr. Hodgdon, a prominent man of
our company, was taken sick yesterday and was unable
to travel this morning, consequently we left him behind
together with eight other men, and we shall remain here
until they arrive.
Sunday, August 5.
Remained in camp here today. Green River is a clear,
rapid stream, ten to fifteen rods wide and is fordable in
many places. It is one of the principal branches of the
Colorado. Its waters are very cold, and its source is
said to be Fremont's Peak, a snow-capped mountain a
considerable distance north, the altitude of which is. about
13,000 feet.
Monday, August 6.
As we did not start today, some of us went deer hunt
ing and killed one buck. At 9 o'clock in the evening the
men whom we left behind with Mr. Hodgdon arrived
safely, he having nearly recovered.
Tuesday, August 7.
Two or three of our company were not in very good
health today and consequently we remained at the old
camp ground. Wednesday, August 8.
Our mules are in much better condition than they were
when we camped on Green River. They had become so

68wild that it was with considerable difficulty that we could
catch them this morning.
Start this morning and travel down the river about
one mile where we ford it without difficulty. We then
followed down the river two miles farther to a branch
that came from the west. We followed this branch up
15 miles and camped.
Thursday, August 9.
We left the stream this morning and commenced
ascending a mountain. At noon we ate our dinner at a
very fine mountain spring.
In the afternoon we continued to ascend and passed
through a heavy growth of spruce timber. Our ascent
was gradual until about 4 o'clock, when we found our
selves at the top of a peak of the Rocky Mountains. To
the west and north the descent was steep — almost precipi
tous. We could see the stream that we had left in the
morning many hundreds of feet below, but to reach it
with our pack mules seemed almost an impossibility.
There were but two ways from which to choose — either
to descend to the stream, or retrace our steps. We were
not long in deciding, and we chose the first and concluded
to try to descend. In about two hours we reached the
stream in a small pleasant valley. The descent made by
us was about 2,000 feet and probably about one and one-
half miles in length, the greater part being covered with
a thick growth of standing and fallen timber.
Captain Thing says he was never before at this place
and is at a loss to know what route to take to get out.
(Distance, 15 miles.)

the overland trail 69
Friday, August io.
We started in the morning and followed the stream up
seven miles to its source. We then traveled one mile
farther and halted, where we found neither water nor
grass. Captain Thing, with two or three men, went ahead
to endeavor to find a passage through the mountains,
which are heavily timbered and very rough and broken.
They returned before night and we went on two miles
farther through a dense growth of spruce, pine and fir
and camped. Good grass and excellent water. This is
in a small valley. (Distance, io miles.)
Saturday, August i i .
Started in good season this morning and soon after
crossed some small mountainous streams, the headwaters
of the Columbia. We traveled over hills and through
small valleys a few miles when we began to descend a
high mountain. The descent is very steep and we were
an hour in making it. We reached the valley at length,
through which passed a small stream with a southern
course, which is probably a tributary of Bear River. We
followed the valley down five miles, where we halted an
hour or two, after which we packed and went down five
miles farther, where we left the valley and passed over a
ridge in a westerly direction and entered another small
valley with a small stream.
We followed down this stream five miles and camped.
We passed over places today on tlie sides of mountains
along Indian trails which were about one foot wide, on

70 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
both sides of which were steeps, almost perpendicular,
for hundreds of feet on the one side up and on the other
down ; and in many places, should a horse or mule make
a misstep, they would be precipitated to the bottom.
This is not only disagreeable and perplexing traveling,
but dangerous. The mountains are very rough and
broken and are principally heavily timbered. A great
part of the timber has been killed by fire. Where we
halted at noon I found strawberries plentiful and fine.
The nth of August seems late for that kind of fruit.
We have passed over several snow banks within two
or three days, and sometimes found beautiful flowers in
blossom within 20 feet of them. (Distance, 20 miles.)
Sunday, August 12.
We had a dispute, or difference of opinion, this morn
ing about starting. Captain Thing wished to remain here
today and look out a route for tomorrow, and go straight
through to Fort Hall. He thought we had come too far
north for the route he had taken eleven years previous,
and said that had caused our misfortunte.
A part of the company desired to remain and follow
the guide. The others had lost all confidence in his
knowledge as a guide in the Rocky Mountain country, and
wished to start today and follow the small stream down
to Bear River valley, where it was thought to flow.
A vote of the company was taken on the question and
the latter party was in the majority.
We started at 8 o'clock and travelled down the stream
a distance of about 22 miles, where we intersected Bear
River valley near the mouth of Smith's Fork where the

THE OVERLAND TRAIL 71
road crosses the same. We traveled three miles farther
and camped on Bear River.
Our road today was wellnigh impassable. We are
once again on the California trail after having wandered
in the mountains for twelve days. Many ox teams that
were behind us when we left the road on the Sweetwater
River, are now many miles in advance of us. This route
has been christened "Thing's Cutoff." A majority of the
company was in favor of trying it, relying on Captain
Thing's knowledge of the country and experience.
Monday, August 13.
Traveled ten miles down the river, crossed Thomas'
Fork and camped.
Bear River valley is very beautiful and possesses a
fertile soil, but the altitude is high. The nights are prob
ably frosty.
Bear River discharges its waters into Great Salt Lake
at its northern extremity. The River Jordan also dis
charges its Salt Lake at its south side, and yet the lake
has no visible outlet. (Distance, 10 miles.)
Tuesday, August 14.
In the forenoon we passed over a high spur of the
mountains and intersected the river again near Peg Leg
Smith's, an old one-legged trader who has lived here
among the Indians fourteen years. He has a small log
cabin and one or two other small buildings.
We saw an old Mormon here who tried hard to induce
us to go by the way of Salt Lake City. He said it would

72 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
be no farther than to follow the California trail, and
offered us his services as a pilot. A majority of the com
pany were at first in favor of adopting that plan, but on
referring the matter to Peg Leg Smith, who is perfectly
well acquainted with both routes, we learned that the old
Mormon was lying and that the distance by way of the
Mormon city would be at least 150 miles greater. Smith
has a squaw wife, and trades with the Indians and im
migrants. We left the Mormon and traveled six miles and
camped. (Distance, 18 miles.)
Wednesday, August 15.
Traveled 20 miles down Bear River and camped. The
weather is fine. Thursday, August 16.
Started in the morning and after 13 miles of travel
reached the Soda Springs. From the journals of Col.
John C. Fremont, Bryant and others, anyone would sup
pose that the waters of these springs were a delicious
beverage to the weary traveler, and I had been led to
anticipate having a fine draught of soda from nature's
own fountains, pure and unadulterated. I came up to
one of the springs where several members of the com
pany were drinking from a tin cup. Feeling sowewhat
thirsty I did not wait my turn for the cup, but lay down
to drink from the spring. I drank one or two swallows
when I arose, perfectly satisfied with soda water. I very
much disliked its taste. Of all the bad water I have
been obliged to drink on the plains it is the worst of all.

THE OVERLAND TRAIL 73
There are several of these springs in this vicinity, but
the most interesting of all is near the bank of Bear River,
and is known as the Steamboat Spring. It issues from a
hole in a rock, a foot or more in diameter, and at one
moment the water will boil up a foot or two above the
surface of the rock and at the next it will settle down
so that no water will be visible. Thus it continues to
ebb and flow, and has ever since first discovered by white
men, it is said.
The chemical qualities I will not undertake to explain.
Some of the company seemed to like the taste of the soda
water, but I noticed they did not drink very heartily from
it. Three miles from the Soda Springs we came to a
fork in the road — one branch leading to Fort Hall, it
being the old Oregon Trail of about 1843. The other
is a new trail called the "Immigrants' Cutoff," which is
said to be 20 or 30 miles shorter.
By a majority vote of the company we concluded to
take the cutoff. We soon after passed near an extinct
crater, which at some time in the past, had vomited forth
its molten lava and covered the plains over which we
passed. Traveled until about 9 o'clock and camped on a small
stream. (Distance, 28 miles.)
Friday, August 17.
We started late in the morning and traveled eight miles
in the forenoon and ten in the afternoon and camped
where we found good grass and good water, which are

74 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
the two principal requisites to a good camp ground.
(Distance, 18 miles.) Saturday, August 18.
Traveled ten miles in the forenoon and 12 in the after
noon, and camped at a fine spring. Springs are plentiful
on this road and grass is good.
Sunday, August 19.
Remained encamped today. Water was frozen over
to the thickness of a quarter of an inch last night.
Summer berries are very plentiful along the route. They
much resemble the sugar plum of New England, but are
nearly as large as a good sized cherry. We have found
the road very hilly for the last two or three days.
Monday,. August 20.
Started at 8 o'clock in the morning and traveled eight
and one-half hours before we found water. Camped at
a fine spring. (Distance, 25 miles.)
Tuesday, August 21.
Traveled n miles in the forenoon and five in the after
noon. Camped at a spring at the south of the road.
Wednesday, August 22.
Decamped and nine miles of travel brought us to a
small stream, after which we cross a barren plain, 12
miles broad, destitute of wood, water and grass.

THE OVERLAND TRAIL ib
After we had crossed the desert plain we found a small
stream of clear, cool water at which we halted two hours
and became refreshed. We traveled six miles to Raft
River and camped. Here we intersected the old trail from
Fort Hall to California. The trail through the Cutoff—
a distance of about 120 miles — is good with the exception
of being considerably uneven.
Thursday, August 23.
Started at 1 o'clock p. m. and traveled up the stream
n miles and camped. Road very dry and extremely
dusty. Raft River is a tributary of Snake River, which
is one of the principal forks of the Columbia.
Finding good grass three or four feet high in this val
ley, and our stock being in poor condition for traveling,
we concluded to remain here until Monday morning. A
few of our mules and horses have been left behind, they
having become completely worn out or exhausted.
Monday, August 27.
Decamped at an early hour and n miles of travel
brought us to a small stream where we dined. Eight
miles further we intersected the Mormon road, leading
from Salt Lake City to California. Camped at a spring
six miles farther on.
Calvin S. Fifield and Dr. Haynes left the company this
morning and went on in advance, with the intention of
buying their provisions of the immigrants and of camping
with them, and of arriving in California in advance of

76 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
the body of the company, and making necessary arrange
ments for its reception. Tuesday, August 28.
Traveled n miles in the forenoon over a hilly and
broken country, when we came to Goose Creek in latitude
41" 45' agreeable to an observation taken by the quad
rant. Traveled up the stream 10 miles in the afternoon.
Road level and dusty. Good water and poor grass.
It is thought by many that the Mormons of Salt Lake
City have discovered rich gold mines on this stream, and
that they are now privately working them and are doing
well. How far the statement deserves credit is not
known, but I have seen no good reason to believe it.
Wednesday, August 29.
We started at seven in the morning and traveled 12
miles in the forenoon, when we halted for dinner; after
which we traveled 15 miles before finding water. We
camped at a spring where grass was not very plentiful.
Thursday, August 30.
Very cold morning. Ice formed one-half inch in
thickness. We traveled 12 miles in the forenoon over a
barren desert and nooned in a small valley, where we
found a small quantity of poor water.
Traveled up the valley eight miles in the afternoon and
camped at a spring. Grass good.

the overland trail 77
Friday, August 31.
Started at seven in the morning and traveled up the
valley eight miles, where we intersected a small stream
where we halted for dinner, after which we traveled two
miles and came to a warm spring, the water of which
is so hot that the hand cannot be held in it for a moment
with comfort. Traveled eight miles farther up the valley,
thence over a high mountain ridge and camped at a
spring. Saturday, September i.
In the forenoon we traveled over a barren plain, ten
miles in extent, when we found a spring. Traveled seven
miles in the afternoon and intersected a tributary of
Mary's River, or Humboldt River, and camped.
Sunday, September 2.
We did not move our camp today. Grass good. All
in good health.
Monday, September 3.
Traveled down the Humboldt valley n miles in the
forenoon and dined on the river, which at this point is
a small stream of clear water.
The valley is broad with a fertile soil which produces
a good quality of grass. At this time it is parched with
drouth. We traveled down the valley 12 miles over a
level road, and camped where we found plenty of grass,
four or five feet high, very thick and of fine quality. The
land in this vicinity is fertile, but is entirely destitute of

78 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
timber, with the exception of some small willows near
the streams. The Mormon whom we met on Bear River
told us that the grass on Mary's River had been entirely
consumed by fire which had been set by the Digger tribe
• of Indians for the purpose of preventing the immigrants
from passing through to California, and that in his
opinion it was an impossibility to travel over that portion
of the route with teams of horses or cattle. And further,
that authentic reports had reached Salt Lake City that
men, women and children were traveling barefooted and
destitute of provisions, and that many were dying daily
/"of starvation and exposure. However, his very pitiful
tale was not credited to any great extent by our com
pany. His motive, probably, was to induce us to go by
the way of the Mormon settlement and sell them a por
tion of our stock at whatever price they might feel willing
to pay. Captain Thing sold him a cow, much against the
will of a majority of the company.
They have agents along the road to decoy immigrants
through their settlements and then make as much out of
them as possible. (Traveled 2^ miles.)
Tuesday, September 4.
Started in good season this morning and in seven miles
of travel we crossed a fork of Mary's River — coming
from the north — after which we traveled 16 miles and
camped on the river, where we found good grass.
We passed over some sand hills today where the road
was extremely dusty. After traveling a few miles over
this dusty road on a warm clay a white man will be

THE OVERLAND TRAIL 79
equally as black as a negro. The dust here is different
from anything of the kind that I have ever before seen.
It bears a strong resemblance to ashes in some respects,
both in appearance and smell, and seems to contain quite
a large percentage of alkali.
Wednesday, September 5.
We started this morning at sunrise and passed down
the Humboldt a few miles, where we met a large train of
Mormon teams, 53 days from Sutter's Fort in the Sac
ramento River valley, on their way to Salt Lake City.
They report the miners in California as doing well, and
some of them stated that they had as much gold as they
wished for.
Traveled 15 miles in the forenoon and 10 in the after
noon and camped on the river, where we found but little
grass. Thursday, September 6.
Started in the morning and went down the river three
miles, when we left the same and commenced ascending a
mountain, and traveled 18 miles through a mountainous
country and over a rough road before we again inter
sected the river. We then traveled down the river a mile
and camped. Grass poor.
Our stock is again in poor condition for traveling, and
we have yet a long road before us before we reach the
Sacramento valley. Our cattle, which are our principal
dependence for our food, are almost destitute of fat or
suet, and are composed chiefly of hide, horns, cords and
gristle and lean, flabby meat. It is not very nutritious

80 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
living. Our appetites are wonderfully good. We have
sometimes boiled the hide when we had plenty of time.
Friday, September 7.
Decamped at sunrise this morning and traveled n
miles in the forenoon over a very poor and barren
country. In the afternoon we met a train of United States Gov
ernment teams from Oregon, under the command of Gen.
Joel Palmer. This train left Oregon early in the spring,
and came by the way of California, where it is thought
it remained a long time. It was sent from Oregon with
provisions for the benefit of the United States soldiers
who are on their way thither to assist the Oregonians in
repelling the barbarous attacks of the Indians upon their
settlements, it is said, and General Palmer expects to
meet the command near Fort Hall.
General Palmer reports having had a serious battle
with the Digger Indians at Mud Lake, where he lost one
man killed and had two or three wounded.
Traveled 10 miles in the afternoon and camped on the
river, where we found good grass.
Saturday, September 8.
Traveled down the river 10 miles in the morning,
when we left it and pursued a straight course over a
barren plain on which nothing grows except wild sage
and greasewood.
After traveling four miles across the desert we again
intersected the river and camped. Some of our company

SAN FRANCISCO. 1849.

THE OVERLAND TRA^L 81
who followed the trail are in advance of the train, and
will probably camp with some other train.
The days are very warm but the nights are cool and
pleasant. Sunday, September 9.
Finding a good supply of grass at this camp ground we
did not move our camp today.
Monday, September io.
Broke camp at six o'clock this morning and traveled
down the river 12 miles in the forenoon and 13 in the
afternoon and camped. Grass poor.
Tuesday, September ii.
Decamped at 5.30 o'clock this morning and traveled
11 miles in the forenoon and 12 in the afternoon. The
road down this river is comfortably good, but is very
dry and dusty. The weather has been extremely warm
today. Wednesday, September 12.
Traveled ten miles in the forenoon and nine in the
afternoon and camped on the river. A slight shower of
rain fell during the night.
Thursday, September 13.
Traveled 16 miles in the forenoon and eight more in
the afternoon and camped on the river, where we found
a limited quantity of grass.

82 the gold seekers of '49
Friday, September 14.
Traveled 12 miles in the forenoon and halted where
grass was not very plentiful. In the afternoon we traveled
five miles farther, when we came to another fork in the
road. The left hand road is the old trail and leads down the
river to the "Sink," as it is called, it being where the
water of the river disappears in the sandy desert, as is
the case with a majority of the streams of the "Great
Interior Basin."
From the "Sink" the road passes thence over a desert
plain to Salmon Trout River, and thence across the
Sierra Nevada Mountains to the Sacramento valley. The
distance from this place to the Sacramento valley, ac
cording to the best information in our possession, is about
300 miles.
The other, or right hand road, is called the Cherokee
Cutoff, and the distance is said to be but 180 miles from
this place to the Feather River gold mines.

CHAPTER III.
THE HUMBOLDT RIVER TRAIL
The question arose, which of the two roads shall we
pursue — follow the old road — the advantages and disad
vantages of which we are pretty well informed; or shall
we risk the new one of which we know nothing, except
from unreliable reports.
The question was submitted to a vote of the company,
and it was in favor of trying the "Cutoff," as it is called,
with scarcely a dissenting vote. Haynes and Fifield, who
left the company at Raft River, left a posted notice here,
which showed them to be several days in advance of us.
They chose the old trail, and cautioned us against taking
the new one, as it was their opinion that it was a longer
and a poorer road.
The "Cutoff" leaves the Humboldt River at a bend,
where it curves more southerly, and at what in later
times was called "Wannamucca" on the Central Pacific
Railroad. The "Cutoff" leaves the river and crosses a
desert plain, very barren and slightly undulating, in a
westerly direction.
We left the Humboldt with the expectation of being at
the gold mines in about a week, providing the reports were
reliable as to the distance. We traveled 14 miles after
leaving the river before we found water. At that place
we found a spring, but there being several trains camped
83

84 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
here tonight, it was with great difficulty that we could
procure water sufficient for the needs of our mules and
horses. There is not a spear of grass to be found in this sec
tion, and we were compelled to tie our mules to sage brush
to keep them from straying away, without a particle of
food. (Distance, 31 miles.)
Saturday, September 15.
We started this morning at 5.30 o'clock and traveled
19 miles across a barren, undulating desert, when we
came to a place known as the Rabbit Wells, where four
or five wells, some 8 or 10 feet deep, have been excavated
by the immigrants in advance for the purpose of obtain
ing water for themselves and their stock.
These wells, with one or two exceptions, were filled
with dead animals. Having seen the water at the bottom
and being so eager to obtain it, they rushed head first
into them, where they perished and could not well be
extricated. The water of these wells is of a poor quality
and proved to be scarce.
After traveling six or seven hours over a very dusty
road on a hot day, it is far better than none. There was
a large number of immigrants at the wells and it was
difficult to obtain a sufficient quantity of water, it being
dipped up with tin cups as fast as it ran into the wells.
We remained there one hour and a half and obtained
what water we were able to, but could get very little for
our animals. Neither was there anything for them to
eat.

THE HUMBOLDT RIVER TRAIL 85
As we had no beef killed we had nothing for dinner.
Beef had been our principal dependence for some time
past. It had become very poor and we had almost
nothing to cook it with. There are no "Buffalo chips"
this side of the Rockies.
We started in the afternoon and at about sunset came
in sight of Black Rock (Spring), which was then about
nine miles distant across a level, barren plain.
When within about six miles of Black Rock one of
tlie mules which I was driving became so exhausted that
he refused to go any farther, and I was obliged to unpack
and leave him with the pack by the roadside ; after which
I reached Black Rock at about eleven o'clock at night.
The company, with a few exceptions, had arrived in
advance of me and were principally asleep. I traveled
the whole distance (40 miles) on foot, and drove two
mules and one horse, which made considerable extra
travel. I had no dinner or supper, and after arriving. at
Black Rock, rolled myself in my blankets and was soon
asleep.
Sunday, September 16.
The country over which we made forty miles yesterday
is known as the Black Rock Desert, and the road is liter
ally strewn with dead animals — cattle, horses and mules.
The stench of these dead and decaying carcasses con
tributes largely to render the traveling still more dis
agreeable than it would otherwise be.
The Black Rock Spring, so-called, is a spring several
feet in diameter, out of which the water is continually
boiling at or near a boiling point. Tlie water may be

86 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
drank after being cooled sufficiently, but is not very good
water. We started early this morning and traveled three miles
where we found a small quantity of grass and camped.
This is the first grass that our animals have found to
eat since Friday noon — nearly 45 hours — since which
time we have traveled over 60 miles. After we had
camped we had a beef animal slaughtered, and a little
before noon we managed to get a breakfast, which was
the first that some of us had eaten since Friday night.
There are several hot springs in this vicinity. Beef
will cook quite quickly in them.
Some of our mules and cattle were left behind on the
road yesterday, with a few packs by the roadside.
George Carlton, with two or three others of the com
pany, went back to procure the packs, together with as
many of the animals as were able to be brought into
camp. They succeeded in bringing into camp the whole
number that had been left by our company. (Distance,
3 miles.) Monday, September 17.
Started in the afternoon and traveled eleven miles
where we found some grass and camped.
Tuesday, September 18.
We remained here until afternoon, when we broke
camp and traveled 15 miles to Mud Lake, where we
stopped for the night. Our course since leaving Hum
boldt has been nearly northwest and we have traveled
upward of 80 miles.

THE HUMBOLDT RIVER TRAIL 87
The country is nearly all a barren desert, with very
little vegetation except wild sage. What is known as
Mud Lake resembles at this time a marsh more than a
lake, and is covered with large coarse grass. It may,
perhaps, be more of a lake at some seasons of the year.
(Distance, 15 miles.)
Wednesday, September 19.
We did not move our camp today.
This is the point where General Palmer's corps had a
battle with the Indians a few weeks since, but we have
not seen an Indian since we left the Humboldt River.
A large percentage of the immigration took this route
and have passed this point, but it is thought now that
the report stating that it did not exceed 180 miles from
the Humboldt to Feather River mines, was very unre
liable and untruthful. Thursday, September 20.
We started in the morning and soon after entered a
canyon and traveled 12 miles in the forenoon and halted
where the rocky bluffs rise nearly 300 feet almost per
pendicularly on either side.
Traveled up the canyon nine miles in the afternoon
and camped at a spring. Canyon I believe to be a
Spanish word and means a deep gorge, ravine, or
gulch between high, steep banks, worn by water
courses. Friday, September 21.
Cold morning. Started at 7 o'clock in the morning and
traveled up the canyon 12 miles in the forenoon over a

88 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
very rough road. In the afternoon we traveled 7 miles
and camped at a spring.
Saturday, September 22.
Started early in the morning and went over a ridge
a distance of 7 miles, thence over a plain 10 miles and
camped. We had a distant view of the Sierra Nevada Mountains
today. Sunday, September 23.
Traveled 5 miles today and camped at a spring.
Monday, September 24.
Decamped early in the morning and after traveling 10
miles, passed several hot springs. Went 9 miles farther
and found good grass and water, where we halted two
hours, after which we traveled 3 miles and camped at the
base of the Sierra Nevada Mountains in some large tim
ber, it being the first large trees we have met with since
coming into the Great Interior Basin, a distance of about
700 miles. With the exception of a few small valleys along
the streams and lakes and at the base of the mountains,
the Great Basin seems to be a very barren country. It
is a very disagreeable country to travel over.
Tuesday, September 25.
We started this morning and traveled northerly along
the base of the Sierras about six miles. We then began
to ascend toward the summit of the ridge, and after

THE HUMBOLDT RIVER TRAIL 89
traveling three miles up a. very steep ascent we reached
the summit.
This seems to be the "Divide" between the waters of
the Great Basin and those of the Pacific Ocean. After
reaching the summit we soon began to descend and after
a descent of one mile entered a beautiful valley. In the
afternoon we traveled io miles through a heavy growth
of yellow pine timber and camped.
It was after dark before we camped and we unpacked
our mules at the top of a steep bluff overlooking a lake,
known as Goose Lake. No water near our camp ground.
The company is scattered tonight, having camped in sev
eral different places along the trail.
After we had camped Mr. Carlton and myself volun
teered to go to the lake for water, and with buckets we
started down the steep, rocky bluff which we found diffi
cult of descent, especially in the dark. The distance was
about one-half mile to the base, or shore of the lake,
where we anticipated finding an abundant supply of
water. But to our great disappointment, we found
nothing but a field of dry sand.
However, we supposed we must be very near the
shore of the lake, and started in that direction. We
traveled about two miles farther over the dry sand, in
dulging the fond hope of soon reaching the waters of the
lake, when we would have the privilege and pleasure of
quenching our thirst, which was almost unbearable.
But we were doomed to disappointment as we found
nothing but a lake of sand — dry and difficult to travel
over; and we returned— climbed the mountain and lay
down to rest as best we could. To be really thirsty, with

90 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
no means of getting water, is truly a horrid sensation.
(Distance, 20 miles.) Wednesday, September 26.
We left camp early in the morning and eventually
reached an abundant supply of water.
We left the Oregon trail, which bears northerly along
the west end of Goose Lake, our course being nearly
south. Our camp last night was near the line separating
the Territories of California and Oregon. We traveled
down a valley and camped on a small mountain stream.
Road good. (Distance, 17 miles.)
Thursday, September 27.
After traveling a short distance this morning we came
to the head of Pitt River.
Traveled down the valley 12 miles in the forenoon and
9 in the afternoon and camped on the river, which is a
rapid stream nearly as large as the Humboldt.
Friday, September 28.
Traveled down the river 23 miles and found an excel
lent road and a good supply of grass.
Saturday, September 29.
Traveled 20 miles over a rough road and camped on
Pitt River. Grass good.
Sunday, September 30.
We did not move our camp today. Latitude 40° 7'.

THE HUMBOLDT RIVER TRAIL 91
The valley along this river has a fertile soil and pro
duces a good quality and a sufficient quantity of grass,
but is bordered on both sides by lofty mountains, tim
bered with pine, fir and spruce. The Indians are said to
be very hostile, but we have not met with any since
crossing the mountains. They are said to have killed
several immigrants within a short time.
Monday, October i.
We left camp at an early hour and traveled down the
river 14 miles in the forenoon and 8 in the afternoon.
We found a good road and grass plentiful.
Tuesday, October 2.
We broke camp at 7 in the morning and soon after
left the river and went over a rough, hilly road 12 miles,
where we stopped near a small stream and had our
lunch. In the afternoon we traveled 7 miles and camped
at a spring.
The road was uneven and through a heavy growth of
timber. We met with some oak timber on the road today,
it being the first we have seen since near the Missouri
line.
Wednesday, October 3.
Started early and first traveled up a long hill, or moun
tain about 6 miles, and thence 5 miles farther, and finding
no water we halted. In the afternoon we traveled n
miles, where we found good water and camped. The
country through which we have traveled today is well
timbered.

92 the gold seekers of '49
Thursday, October 4.
Broke camp at 7 o'clock in the morning and traveled
15 miles in the forenoon and halted at Little Goose Lake.
We traveled 4 miles in the afternoon, when we found a
bountiful supply of good grass and water and camped.
Friday, October 5.
We traveled 14 miles and camped at Feather Lake, it
being the source of the north fork of Feather River.
country appears to be nearly all very heavily timbered.
Saturday, October 6.
We traveled 6 miles through a dense forest and
reached a branch of Feather River; then traveled down
the river 6 miles, where we came into a large meadow ;
thence down along the meadow 5 miles and camped. A
branch of Feather River passes through this meadow and
it is known as the Feather River Meadow.
Sunday, October 7.
Traveled down the river 2 miles and camped.
Monday, October 8.
It was thought by many of the company that it might
be practical to follow the river down to the Feather River
mines, and thus save much time and travel in avoiding
the long, circuitous route by the way of the Sacramento
valley and Lassen's Ranch, and consequently, six of us
started in the morning with about two days' rations, pur-

THE HUMBOLDT RIVER TRAIL 93
sued a southerly course through the mountains and in
six miles of travel came to a small stream. We then
crossed a mountain ridge about 9 miles and came into
a fine bottom prairie 8 miles in length with a small stream
passing through the center. We went down the valley
three miles, built a fire by the side of a large pine log,
and ate our supper. The meal finished we laid ourselves
down for the night — Indian fashion — keeping one at a
time of the party on watch during the night to give the
alarm should any Indians make their appearance. We
discovered fresh Indian signs in the little valley today.
Tuesday, October 9.
The morning was cool and very foggy. We started as
soon as it was fairly light, and went on down the little
valley to the southern end, where the stream enters a
deep, high canyon with high precipitous moutains on
both sides. We traveled down the canyon about one
mile farther and found the mountains so extremely
rough, we became convinced that it would be an im
possibility to travel through them with mules and
horses. We gave up the expedition and started for
camp, where we arrived about one o'clock very much
fatigued. We did not move our camp today.
Wednesday, October 10.
Traveled 10 miles in the forenoon and 8 miles in the
afternoon and camped on Deer Creek.

94 the gold seekers of '49
Thursday, October ii.
A part of the night was rainy, which was not very
agreeable, as we have not had our tents set for a long
time, or since we left Raft River. We traveled 10 miles
in the forenoon and halted at a spring where there was
no grass. In the afternoon we went on 8 miles farther
and camped at a spring. No grass.
Friday, October 12.
We started at one o'clock at night and traveled over a
rough road through a dense forest 10 miles and halted,
where we found water one-half mile north of the road —
down a steep mountain — but no grass.
Started again at 8 o'clock and after traveling six miles
we emerged from the dense forest through which we
have traveled for several days past, and came into a very
barren country. Went five miles farther and halted, with
neither grass nor water.
In the afternoon we traveled nine miles and camped
on Antelope Creek, one mile south of the road. The
country through which we have traveled today is ex
tremely rough and barren. (Distance, 30 miles.)
Saturday, October 13.
Break camp in the morning and after three miles of
travel we entered the Sacramento valley — the valley
which we have so long wished to see. Traveled eight
miles farther and halted on Deer Creek.
In the afternoon we passed Lassen's Ranch and
camped on the bank of the Sacramento River. (Distance,
17 miles.)

THE HUMBOLDT RIVER TRAIL 95
The full distance from where we left the old trail at
Winnemucca on the Humboldt to this place, as kept by
me, is 466 miles ; and since we left Independence, Mo.,
2,130 miles. Sunday, October 14.
Moved our camp down the river one mile and camped
again. Monday, October 15.
We did not move our camp today.
Tuesday, October 16.
We traveled down the Sacramento 23 miles and
camped on a creek. We have found fine grass since we
entered this valley. Wednesday, October 17.
We traveled 24 miles down the river and crossed
Feather River and camped on the southern bank.
We are now very near Feather River mines, which we
were told we could reach in 180 miles from the forks
of the roads on the Humboldt at Winnemucca. Instead,
as per my account, which I believe is very nearly correct,
the distance is 514 miles as we have traveled it.
We left the Humboldt River, September 14, and
reached here October 17, being 33 days on the "Green
horn's Cutoff," as it is now commonly known. Probably
nearly one-half of the immigrants came by this route.
Thursday, October 18.
We remained encamped here today, endeavoring to
make some division of the property of the Granite State

96 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
and California Mining and Trading Company, but did
not agree upon any plan that was satisfactory to a
majority. Friday, October 19.
A division of the stock — cattle, mules and horses — was
effected in the forenoon, and some of us went up to the
mines in the afternoon. A portion of the members ap
peared dissatisfied with the division. We had but few
cattle left and they were very thin and in poor condition.
Many of our mules and horses had died, and were left
on the road; and those that were alive were nearly all
seemingly worn out and of but little value.
The Granite State and California Mining and Trading
Company was this day dissolved by a unanimous vote of
its members.
It would have been dissolved long before it reached
California had it not been for the beef cattle, which were
the means of holding it together. They were their prin
ciple dependence for food, and it was not practical to
divide them among small squads, as they would have
been of very little benefit to them.
When we entered the Sacramento valley we had but
three or four young cattle and they were so very poor
that they could scarcely travel. They constituted our
entire stock of provisions.
Two or three gross errors were committed by the man
agers before we left Boston, which were the cause, in
great part, of the great length of time consumed on the
road. First, the company should not have consisted of
more than ten members, and it should not have been a

From an Old Dra-'

SUTTEE'S MILL, 1849.

THE HUMBOLDT RIVER TRAIL 97
joint stock company; but each member should have pro
vided for himself as he saw fit, with mules and pro
visions. Then we should have had good mules, not less than
four years old, and such as had been broken to packing.
The majority of our mules were not over two or three
years of age and had never been broken. They were
entirely unfit for the exceedingly strenuous journey
"across the plains." For a pack train to drive cattle on
that journey for their dependence for their provisions is
a great absurdity.
Had we traveled as rapidly as we expected and in
tended to have done when we started on the journey, we
could' not have driven our cattle very long, until they
would have died.
Each man should have owned three or four trained
mules in good condition. I am of the opinion that under
good conditions and properly managed, the journey may
be made, fairly easily, in 70 days, with a good pack train
consisting of 10 or 12 active, energetic and courageous
men. ¦ We were about 144 days on the road, or about
twice the time that should have been needed under proper
conditions and management.
The last cutoff, or the "Greenhorn's Cutoff," as it
became to be generally known, that we were induced to
adopt proved to be more than 300 miles farther than it
was represented to be in distance, and probably more than
200 miles longer than the old California trail that we left.
It was currently reported and probably with truth, that
some time early in August, after the immigrants had
begun to pass down the trail on the Humboldt River, a

98 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
man with a party was sent out over the mountains and
deserts by Lassen, whose ranch was located on the Sac
ramento River, to induce so much of the immigration as
possible to take that route and which he called the
"Cherokee Cutoff," and represented the distance to be but
180 miles to the Feather River mines, with a good road
to travel over with many superior advantages over the
old trail.
This new route entered the Sacramento valley near the
Lassen ranch, and as Lassen owned many cattle and
horses, he was able to profit largely by his trade with the
tired and famished immigrants.
He probably succeeded in profiting several thousand
dollars by his trade with the poor immigrants, and it is
currently reported that the immigrants have threatened
his life, and that they have killed many of his cattle for
food, without any remuneration to him.
A large number of immigrants are still behind, many
of them with little or no subsistence, and had not the
Californians sent out mules, horses, cattle and provisions,
probably many of them would have perished with starva
tion. The journey "across the plains" is a very hard experi
ence, the hardships and privations of which cannot be
realized by any one who has not undertaken it.
On the other hand, it presents much interesting scenery
— the grand, the beautiful and the sublime. Lofty moun
tains and green, verdant valleys, majestic rivers and
sandy, barren plains — all contribute, with much more, to
make it a very interesting, and in a way, an enjoyable
experience.

THE HUMBOLDT RIVER TRAIL 99
Nature may be seen in its wildest grandeur where
civilization and art have neither added to its usefulness
nor retrenched its beauty."
The full distance traveled from Independence, Mo., to
the Sacramento River, at Lassen's Ranch, as kept by me,
is as follows :
In May, y^ miles; in June, 429 miles; in July," 436
miles; in August, 471 miles; in September, 523 miles; in
October, 198 miles. This makes it 2,130 miles to Sac
ramento River. To Feather River, near Oroville, 2,178
miles.

CHAPTER V.

THE LAND OF GOLD.

The following1 pages are from the original manuscript
written by Kimball Webster, whieh relates a few of the
many experiences in California from October, 1849, to June,
1851, and in Oregon from June, 1851, to July, 1854. — Editob.
At that time California and Oregon were both terri
tories and belonged to the United States, and both in
a semi-primitive condition. California had been a part
of Mexico until 1847, only two years prior to the time
of which I am writing. This seems difficult to compre
hend at the present time, 1914, when California and
Oregon have taken their places among the great and
leading states of the Union, as to population, wealth and
influences. On the arrival in California of the gold seekers of 1849,
the prospects did not present as favorable and promising
an appearance to a large percentage of the newly arrived
immigrants as they had been led to picture to their imagi
nation. Very many of them had believed that once they
were in the mines, gold would be found in such quantities
it would require but a few weeks, or months at the most,
for them to be able to gather enough of the precious
metal to enable them to return to their homes independ
ent for the rest of their lives. 100

THE LAND OF GOLD 101
Many, however, were doomed to a most sad and bitter
disappointment, and far better would it have been for
such had they remained at home and enjoyed the domestic
pleasures which they had left behind.
It was found that to make a success of mining gold
from the California mines was one of the most laborious
kinds of employment that a man could engage in; and
required energy and perseverance to ensure a reasonably
profitable return as a whole.
Some, it is true, were fortunate in finding gold in such
quantities as to enable them to gather a moderate fortune
in comparatively a short time and return to their homes.
But these were exceptions.
I believe that one ounce of gold per day was above the
average pay of the winers then actually at work in mining
in the placer mines of California.
There was then, and for years later, a large percentage
of the California miners not at work. Some would be
traveling through the mountains with pick, shovel and
pan, together with as much provisions as they were able
to carry — "prospecting," as it was called, or searching
for a "rich lead." Sometimes their labors would be hap
pily and richly rewarded, but more often were they sadly
disappointed. Many at that time were lying under
friendly trees, or in their tents, having been stricken
down by the prevalent diseases, at that time raging in the
country, many dying almost daily. A very large number
had been brought up without labor, and some were too
indolent to labor ; or perhaps, had been clerks or students,
and to make enough for their present needs was as much

102 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
as many were able to accomplish. Others would gamble
at the Monte table, or at poker.
Owing to the influx of immigration into the territory
in such large numbers, it was deemed best by many of
the people to form a state constitution, and then ask
admission to the Union. Accordingly, a convention was
called at Monterey, which framed a constitution, and a
little later it was submitted to the people, who almost
unanimously adopted it, and immediately forwarded it to
Washington. The first gold dust seen by me in California was at
Lassen's Ranch, near where we entered the Sacramento
valley. At that point there were traders selling pro
visions, mining implements, clothing and other needed
articles to the unfortunate immigrants who had entered
the valley by the way of "Greenhorn's Cutoff," and to
miners that were traveling up the valley to Redding's
mines ; these men taking in exchange gold dust which
they wished with small scales provided for that purpose.
Gold dust at sixteen dollars per ounce was the prin
cipal medium of exchange in California. Some of the
dust was nearly clean, and some had considerable quan
tities of black sand mixed with it. This at first seemed
to be a very inconvenient manner of making change and
paying for goods, but it possessed its good qualities.
The newcomer with his exalted ideas, on seeing the
small quantity which he would receive for one, two, three
or even five dollars, and so very fine was the dust, that
it looked to him almost insignificant. Some of it was so
very fine that it almost required a microscope to be able

THE LAND OF GOLD 103
to discover its separate particles. A person must be able
to earn something to make a living here.
Flour retails at 40 cents per pound; pork from 50 to
75 cents; potatoes at $1.50 per pound; sugar 50 cents;
eg£s $5-00 per dozen; a pick or shovel $8 to $10 each;
rockers to wash gold with in the mines, from $40 to $50
each ; a quicksilver gold rocker $300 ; lumber in the mines
sold for $2.00 per foot, or at the rate of $2000 per thou
sand feet, and at Sacramento City it sold at six hundred
dollars per thousand.
Other necessaries sold at equally as high prices in pro
portion. Such seemingly exorbitant prices seemed at
first to the newly arrived immigrant as if he was being
robbed. It seemed far different to those that have been
here a few weeks. In buying provisions or other neces-__
saries they do not appear to think any more about paying /
the California prices than they would the customary /
prices when at their homes. /
This at present is a fast country, and money must be
made fast or the miners could not make a comfortable
livelihood, having to pay such prices. It is said that in
case a person is taken sick here and employs a physician,
that the M. D. will size his "pile," whether large or small.
Probably this was not strictly true in all cases, but in
many cases they collected very exorbitant fees. It was
also a prevailing opinion among the miners that many of
the physicians now in the country do not understand the
prevailing diseases of the country ; and that many of
them are the cause of more sickness and death than they
are the means of saving lives. How far this is true I will
not undertake to determine; but from what I saw at this

104 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
time and later, there were apparently a few good, skilled
physicians in the country, and very many whose success
seemed to be quite poor and unfortunate for some cause.
It seemed to require but two things only to kill the
strongest man in California, however slight the disease
might at first be. First, to apply for a doctor; and
second, to lose his courage and believe he would soon
die, and that he would never see his home and friends
again. With this combination I never knew the first
man to recover under similar circumstances, in the early
days of California.
The population of the country at this time was a
heterogeneous mass from almost all parts of the civilized
world. New England is well represented. The majority
of the Yankees came by the way of Cape Horn; some
across the Isthmus of Panama, and a few across the
country. Missouri probably had more immigrants in California,
by far, than any other state, and for some reason which
is not easy to explain, they were not so popular as those
from most other states. They were popularly known by
others as "Pukes." Illinois, Indiana, Wisconsin and
Iowa all sent large numbers. New York sent a large
delegation, the larger part by water, rom the southern
slaveholding states there were but comparatively few.
England, France, Germany and Ireland were all quite
largely represented. Also Sidney, New South Wales,
which had formerly been England's penal colony for
many years. Very large numbers came from this colony,
a great majority of them being former convicts. These
were by far the worst class of people then in California.

THE LAND OF GOLD 105
They were principally English, Scotch and Irish, but the
greatest number were Scotch. They had formerly been
transported from England, Scotland and Ireland for
some serious crime committed, and dared not return to
their homes, many of them being under penalty of death.
But they could come to California and there was no
penalty attached, or no one to question their right to do
so, and they enjoyed equal rights with the American
citizen. There were also many Mexicans and Chilians at
work in the mines, packing mule trains with provisions,
mining tools, etc. Many of them were very treacherous,
being mixed breeds, and if possible, worse than the
Sidney Ducks, as they were called, and I believe more
treacherous than the North American Indian.
All classes of people were here — mechanics, clerks,
men of all professions mingled together to make up the
population. Here were doctors and lawyers hard at work
in the mines, clerks who had never before performed a
day's work of manual labor, with a red flannel shirt on,
their sleeves rolled up, armed with a pick and shovel,
digging their fortunes from the banks and bars of the
rivers. Ministers of the Gospel seeking wild specula
tions, and a few of them seated behind a table dealing
"Monte," or some other game of chance. Sailors and
soldiers also formed a considerable percentage of the
mining population, and seemed to be just as independent
as a member of Congress, and were probably making,
many of them, larger pay.
On Friday, October 19, The Granite State and Cali
fornia Mining and Trading Company, about which there

106 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
was so much talk in Boston and Pelham, was practically
dissolved, its former members going various ways.
Some went to Sacramento City ; some to Feather River
mines; and some in other directions, each for himself,
and no longer trammeled by the restrictions of a joint
stock company.
The Pelham folks moved up to Long's Bar on Feather
River, some five or six miles from the foothills of the
Sierra Nevada mountains. At this place there was a
small town consisting of a few stores and quite a large
number of mining camps.
A few of the miners had tents, some had brush
shanties, and many more with nothing for a shelter but
the trees. At night there was no necessity for shelter,
the weather being clear and dry without a particle of
dew to moisten the earth.
Here the miners were at work along the banks of the
river, some digging in the crevices of the rocks and
washing the pay <lirt in a pan, while others were taking
their dirt from the banks in larger quantities and wash
ing it in cradles made for that purpose. The country
about this place is hilly and is covered with a growth of
several species of oak. The Live Oak is an evergreen
and is scrubby and small. The White Oak is of a larger
size, but is low and branching.
The land here is not very heavily timbered, much of
it being "Oak Openings." The soil is red.
Some of the Pelham folks that came with us thought
perhaps it would be wise and profitable to form a com
pany and send to Sacramento City for their winter pro
visions ; and accordingly the writings were drawn up and

THE LAND OF GOLD 107
signed by the following persons: Doctor Amos Batch-
elder, George Carlton, Samuel Worcester Gage, Robert
Thom, Jacob Morris, Joseph Davis Gage, Austin W.
Pinney, together with two or three other members of
the former Granite State Company. I was given an in
vitation to take a share in the newly formed company,
but I declined, not being prepared to join another mining
company at present.
The company immediately dispatched two of its men
with mules to Sacramento to procure provisions and
other necessary articles, in readiness for the rainy sea-
¦ son which was expected within a month.
I was the owner of one mule which I forwarded to
Sacramento by those men for sale for whatever price
it might sell for. I received in return $62.
On Sunday, October 21, S. W. Gage and Austin W.
Pinney concluded they would leave the new company,
and they with myself traveled up the river 8 miles to
Bidwell's Bar, another mining camp, where we agreed to
commence work the next morning on a dam for a com
pany at $6 per day each, board included.
On Monday morning we shouldered our blankets and
walked to Bidwell's in season to perform three-fourths
of a clay's work. We also labored Tuesday and Wednes
day. As this was the first real manual labor performed by
us for many months, and the weather being excessively
warm and the work we were required to perform very
laborious, it was not an easy matter for us to put in the
time. We were just in from the mountains where the at
mosphere was cool and bracing, and the locality here was

108 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
on the river, surrounded by high hills and mountains,
where the sun's rays fell unobstructed by any friendly
shade trees. The labor was of the hardest kind. We
were buiding a dam across Feather River for the pur
pose of turning the stream from its natural channel for
a short distance, so the bed of the stream could be
worked and the gravel washed to obtain whatever gold it
might contain. At that time it was supposed to be large
quantities. The company for which we were at work consisted of
about twenty members, who were at work with us. They
were in haste to complete the dam before the rainy sea
son should set in ; consequently they worked more hours
in a day than they otherwise would have done.
We were obliged to carry large rocks and loads of
gravel, cobble stones, etc., from the shore to the dam on
hand barrows, which was called by us "soul carting."
After we had worked two and three-fourths days, Mr.
Gage thought he could not endure it any longer, so we
concluded to quit and commence mining on our own
account and be independent.
Consequently we bought an old "cradle" for $50, two
tin pans for $8, a pick and shovel, and commenced opera
tions. Our cooking apparatus consisted of one tin kettle
for which we paid $4, a fry pan, a few knives and
forks, three or four tin plates, some tin cups and a
coffee pot, which we inherited from the old company.
For a shelter we had the broad canopy of heaven ; and
for a bed dry sand.
To us the mines presented a novel and interesting ap
pearance. There were at this time no less than seventy-

THE LAND OF GOLD 109
five to one hundred mining cradles on Bidwell's Bar,
with two or three men at work at each cradle.
The cradles were set along at the water's edge. The
dirt was carried from the bank to the water in tin pans
and poured into the upper part of the machine — or that
part called the screen. This was a box about 15 inches
square, with a sheet iron bottom perforated with holes
about one-half inch in diameter.
A pan full of pay dirt was dug and turned into the
screen and water poured upon it freely, while the cradle
was rocked vigorously. This separated the coarse gravel
and small stones from the sand, which passed to the bot
tom of the machine and was carried, away by the water,
while the gold being much heavier than the sand and
gravel, was left at the bottom of the cradle.
The cradles were from three to four feet in length,
with two or three bars across the bottom. The miners at
this place were making from $10 to $30 a day, and a
great majority were immigrants that had just come in
over the country, and consequently were new hands at
mining, each learning by experience the knack of sepa
rating the gold from the sand as best he could. We had
endeavored to gain some information in regard to the
process before we commenced here, but had not suc
ceed farther than what knowledge wc could acquire by
watching others do the work, and imitating the process as
far as possible.
Everything in the mines is quiet, and although traders
and others leave large quantities of gold dust entirely
exposed, there is said to be almost no thefts committed.
Many of the traders are also miners, and very many have

110 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
not even a tent in which to store their goods, and have
no safe or bank to deposit it in — not even a trunk to place
their gold in to keep it from the sight of those who are
easily tempted, or are devoid of principle.
I have seen quantities of several thousand dollars
worth of gold dust lying in full sight, while the owner
at the same time would be away at work at the river, a
quarter or a half mile away.
If a person is so unfortunate as to be taken seriously
sick here it seems almost an impossibility for him to
recover and regain his former strength. This probably is
owing much more to the manner of living, and to the
poor quality of food, than to the climate.
Scurvy is very prevalent among the land immigrants,
. and in this country at this time is one of the most serious
diseases we have among us. To cure the scurvy requires
a vegetable diet, which cannot be had at any price in
the mines at the present time.
The flour is almost all musty, having been shipped
around Cape Horn in the hold of a vessel ; pork is rusty,
as it is called, some of it nearly spoiled. Flour and pork
are the two principal articles of diet.
Sometimes beef can be had and that is of the best
quality. California beef is just as good as any.
Physician's charges are exorbitant, fifty or a hundred
dollars not being considered at all high for a professional
visit. This is certainly a very hard country for a sick
man. It is often said that if a man is taken sick here
that he is no better than dead.
There are some cases of recovery, however. Many
die of scurvy, of fevers of different kinds, and other

THE LAND OF GOLD. Ill
diseases. The sudden changes of climate probably may
cause considerable sickness.
For the last two or three weeks before entering the
valley, we had cool weather with frosty nights, being in
the mountains at a high altitude, but here, although the
nights are cool and very pleasant, the days are so very
warm that the thermome'ter stands at 100° in the shade.
Many whose food was largely salted provisions during the
journey across the plains from Missouri to Sacramento
valley, got their systems impregnated with salt and
grease, and so became easy victims to the scurvey.
The miners generally appear to be in excellent spirits,
and seem to enjoy life as well as the circumstances of
their conditions will admit. A few of them have tents,
some have brush shanties, but by far the larger portion
camp in the open air, or under friendly trees, where they
have a good opportunity to study astronomy after they
lie down, by watching the moon and the stars. It is said
by many, and it seems to be true, that for the moon to
shine in a persons face while sleeping, is very injurious
to the eyes. I have known some cases where persons have
become almost blind, with no other good reason assigned.
I believe it to be a safe plan for all persons who are
accustomed to sleeping in the open air to always shade
their face from the moon. From my own experience, I
believe I have suffered with my eyes to a considerable
degree from that cause. A person's eyes seem to become
injured to a considerable extent before they are aware
that anything wrong is taking place. What power, if
any, the lunar rays have upon the human eye I am unpre
pared to explain.

112 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
The miners principally do their own cooking, and
washing, if they have any done.
Their living is most commonly fried pork and flap
jacks, or flippers as they are called, and fresh beef, which
I believe is as good as any beef that can be found. One
pound of this beef seems to be worth as much as several
pounds of the miserable poor, cordy stuff that we called
beef and ate for food on the journey to California. This
is as fat and juicy as could be desired.
On Thursday, October 26, 1849, we commenced min
ing and set our cradle on the lower point of Bidwell's
Bar, where we kept it running through the day, with the
exception of a short time at noon.
As new miners we thought that the more and faster
we washed the dirt, the more gold dust we should have
to our credit at night, and consequently we kept the
screen full all day and crowded it through as fast at it
was possible. When night came we took it out of the
cradle into a pan and tried to separate the black sand
from the gold dust. But for us that was the most diffi
cult operation of the whole process.
When we commenced we had nearly a pailful of the
sand, and after a time we had succeeded in reducing it
very materially in quantity, but could not separate the
gold entirely from the sand, and consequently we were
unable to ascertain the amount of gold that we had ac
quired for our day's work. However, we concluded that
we were not doing as well as we desired and decided to
look up another claim.
Our claim was at the extreme point of the Bar and

From an Old Print.

MINING SCENE.

THE LAND OF GOLD. 113
would soon run out, or become exhausted, as it is called
by the miners.
The next morning we found' a claim a short distance
below on the opposite side of the river that had been
worked for a considerable distance into the bank. There
was an old rocker in the hole that was made from a tree,
it having been dug out. Probably this was left here for
the purpose of holding the claim if that should be
desirable. We learned that the men who had been working the
claim had gone up the river and were engaged in building
a log cabin.
We thought they were not entitled to hold a claim here
and one in the mountains at the same time, so we moved
the old machine out the hole where it would not trouble
us and went to work.
We worked five days before we separated the gold
from the black sand and did not know how well we
were doing, but on making the separation we found we
had averaged very nearly one ounce each per day, with
which we were fairly well satisfied as a beginning.
Could we have continued indefinitely to make as good
pay, it would have been better than we had dared to hope.
The weather continued warm and dry until Tuesday,
October 30, when it became cloudy and presented a very
strong appearance of rain.
It did not storm, however, before night, when the rain
began to descend and it continued to fall nearly all night.
This was not very agreeable to us as we were sleeping
without shelter on the ground, which soon began to
grow damp and cold. Our situation was no worse than

114 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
that of hundreds of others who were caught in a similar
condition. Very few of the miners had any shelter and the best
equipped had nothing but tents. A few days previous
we had been warned by an old Californian that when the
rainy season should begin the rain would descend in tor
rents. He said the miners were sure to be caught in a
bad and unfortunate situation.
The first shower of the rainy season might be expected
to continue for about four weeks. We afterwards
learned to our sorrow that his statement was nearly cor
rect. The rain commenced on the evening of the 30th day
of October, and until November 21st it rained more or
less 19 days out of the 23. The greater part of the
time it was so very wet that it was useless to undertake
to work.
The river was swollen to such an extent that the bars
along its shores were covered with water and could not
be worked. The natural roads down the valley to Sac
ramento City became so very soft and muddy that pack
mules could not travel them with packs, and provisions
were boated up the river as far as possible, and then
carried upon the miners' backs.
The limited stock of provisions in the mines at the
beginning of the rainy season was soon exhausted, and
consequently food soon became very scarce and
extremely high. Flour advanced from 40 cents to $1.50
per pound, and much of it that was sold at that exorbi
tant price was so badly hurt that it required the use of
a hatchet to cut it in pieces to remove it from the barrel.

THE LAND OF GOLD 115
Other provisions became equally as expensive in propor
tion, and were difficult to procure at any price.
When the rainy season commenced a great number
began to prepare some protection or shelter. Some built
themselves small cloth or canvas tents, others constructed
small log huts, while a few dug holes in the ground and
covered them over Indian fashion. Not a few left the
mines for the city, where provisions could be had at a
lower price. Gage, Pinney and myself, when the rains
commenced, procured a shelter in a large tent that be
longed to some New Yorkers, and which stood near
where we had been camping.
We paid two dollars each per week for the privilege
of sleeping in the tent, and found our own blankets, and
we considered ourselves very fortunate in obtaining so
good a shelter.
About the ioth of November, Mr. Gage being some
what indisposed, left us and went down and joined the
Pelham company, about two miles above Long's Bar.
They were engaged in building a log cabin and making
other preparations for the long rainy season. Pinney and
myself bought a claim in the bank of the river, for
which we paid $40. It had formerly been quite produc
tive, but had been worked back into the bank consider
ably. We found it to be very little, if any better, than
our old claim where we began mining.
From the 30th of October to the 21st of November
we labored as much as the state of the weather and the
high stage of the water would admit, but owing to the
large proportion of rainy weather and the many other
discouragements, under which we labored, and also to

116 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
the high prices of provisions, we could no more than earn
our expenses, and we were doing far better than the
average of the miners about Bidwell's at that time.
Finally we concluded to leave the mines, for a time at
least, to explore the valley and see if we could find any
thing to do. Accordingly we started on the afternoon of
the 22nd of November and traveled down the river about
13 miles to Mayhew's ranch, or rather tent, near the
foothills. Here we tried to procure something for supper, but
all that could be bought in the line of provisions of any
kind was some raw venison,
We started a fire under a tree and roasted our meat
on a forked stick, and ate it without salt. This we found
quite dry and not the best of living, but it was the best,
and all, that our money would buy, consequently we were
compelled to make the best of it. We slept under a large
oak tree, and in the morning roasted and ate some more
of our venison, after which we proceeded on our way
down the valley.
After traveling about ten miles we came to the ranch
of Charles H. Burch, where we found a boat ready to
leave for Sacramento City early the next morning, and
we concluded to engage a passage for that place. How
ever, upon making application, we learned that the seats
were all engaged. The boat was owned by Mr. Burch
and was only a whaleboat which would seat about
twenty persons.
' Thomas D. Bonner was captain. Captain Bonner was
formerly president of the New Hampshire Temperance
Society, but had resided in Massachusetts. Some time

THE LAND OF GOLD 117
previous to his embarkation for California he was said
to be quite a poet in his way and composed many of
the songs used at the temperance meetings, etc. He
was formerly, according to his own account of his pre
vious life, a real street drunkard — a mere sot. He called
himself a reformed drunkard now.
After learning that we could not procure passage
aboard the boat, we thought we would construct a raft
on which we could float to Sacramento at our leisure.
However, we could not find any suitable timber with
which to build a raft, and further, Mr. Burch said he
was well acquainted with the river between here and
Sacramento, and that he should advise no person to at
tempt to make the passage on a raft — that by doing so
they most probably would lose their lives, unless they
were good swimmers. He had known of two or three
parties that had attempted it, but all were shipwrecked
and lost all they had with them. He said the river was
full of snags and sand bars, and that it was as much
as he could do to pilot a good boat through safely.
His graphic account of the river below exploded our
calculations in regard to attempting a passage by raft
to the city. At this time it was almost impossible to
travel to Sacramento by land, the road being very muddy
with numerous slough crossings, which were full of
water with neither bridges nor ferries. At some places
the Sacramento had already overflowed its low bottom
lands. Burch was an old Californian who came to Oregon by
Way of the overland route in 1842 or 1843. t*e .re
mained in that territory two or three years, when he

118 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
came to California, then Mexico, and had since resided
here, where he was in the army of Col. John C. Fremont
in the Mexican war, 1847. He was formerly from
Maryland and has no family. He was rough in his ad
dress and extremely profane.
He had taken a claim on the bank of Feather River,
upon which he was intending to construct a house the
following winter. He made a proposition to give us
employment until he should complete his house at a
salary of $4.50 each per day and board.
This, considering the high prices of provisions, and
the large proportion of wet weather, was as well as we
would be likely to do at that time, and consequently we
agreed to work for him until such time as we could do
better, or as long a time as we all should be satisfied.
Mr. Burch contemplated the construction of a house
by putting hewn posts into the ground and nailing on to
them weather boards which were riven from oak logs.
A house of this kind would not answer a very good
purpose in a cold climate, but was tight enough to be
free from leakage and would be a very good shelter for
California. This point was about twenty miles above the junction
of the Feather and Yuba rivers, and 80 or 90 miles above
the mouth of the Feather, where it intersects the Sac
ramento River. The surrounding country was nearly
level, and was covered with a growth of large, scattering,
branching oak trees. The soil was of a sandy nature,-
and was not as fertile as it was in some other localities.
Some of the oak trees were very large but were low
and branching.

THE LAND OF GOLD 119
I measured one that was eleven feet in diameter near
the ground — "a sturdy old oak" surely, that had stood
the storms, the winds and the fires of many centuries.
A little farther away from the river the soil was more
of a clayey nature and there was considerable live oak
growth. Some of the soil was red — a kind of red clay —
and seemed to New Hampshire people as being almost
worthless for cultivation.
The live oak was small and scrubby, an evergreen
almost worthless for timber.
The white oak produces large quantities of acorns
which made good, nourishing food for swine. Fremont,
I believe, stated that he had seen acorns grown from a
single tree to cover the ground under its branches four
inches in thickness. This I believe to be an exaggeration
in keeping with many others made by that illustrious
pathfinder. Mr. Pinney and myself commenced work for Mr. C.
H. Burch on Monday, November 26. A few days later,
James M. Butler, one of our party of Pelham boys,
came down from the mines in search of employment, and
engaged himself to work for Mr. Burch, commencing to
work with us at a uniform salary.
Robert Thom, another of our Pelham friends, was at
this time working for his board about one mile up the
valley from the Burch ranch at a place known as the
"Hole in the Ground." This resort derived its name
from the fact that it was a mere hole excavated in the
ground and covered with mud, etc., so as to shed the
rain. It was owned by a fellow known as "Ned," and

120 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
one or two others, all from Sidney. It was conducted
as a tavern or a stopping place for travelers.
Mr. Thom was expected to get and prepare wood,
cook, and do other work. We went up to visit him one
evening and gave him an invitation to go to work with
us at $4.50, as Mr. Burch desired to employ one more
man, for a few weeks at least.
To this proposition Robert replied, that in all prob
ability Mr. Burch would not have work for a man much
more than one month, and in case he should begin work
for him, he was afraid he would lose his place with
Ned. He said his labor was not very hard and he
thought he would remain for the present and make sure
of his board.
It seemed to me that if a man was afraid of losing
his place when he was at work for his board only in
California, he certainly could have very little ambition.
I thought he had better have remained at home with
his family, and saved the long and tedious journey across
the plains; but he was firm and decided and remained
there until spring.
Mr. Burch desired to contract a ditch to be dug to
enclose a field containing ten acres on the river bank, and
Pinney contracted to do the work at the price of two
dollars per rod, with the understanding that Mr. Burch
should board him, and that the ditch should be four feet
deep and four feet wide at the top and twenty inches
wide at the bottom, and that it was not to be commenced
until we had finished the other job. About i2o rods of
ditch were to be dug, After Pinney had made tne con
tract to dig the ditch he thought the price was too low

THE LAND OF GOLD 121
and he wished me to promise to do a part of it. I
thought as he did, that the price was low for excavating
so large a ditch, but I promised to help him to do it, and
also Mr. Butler desired to do a portion of it.
After working for Mr. Burch about three weeks, he
asked us to go to Sacramento with his boat after a load
of provisions, for which he agreed to pay us five dollars
per day each.

CHAPTER VI.
ADVENTURES BY FLOOD.
We started down the river on the 22nd of December.
Our crew consisted of Thomas D. Bonner, captain, Aus
tin W. Pinney and myself. We carried down two or
three passengers. The river being very much swollen by
the recent heavy rains, we went down the river as far as
Fremont the first day.
Fremont is a small town named for the "Pathfinder"
and is situated on the west bank of the Sacramento River
at its junction with Feather River.
We remained at Fremont until the morning of the
23rd, when we again started and reached Sacramento
City before night.
By the way of the crooked river it is about 150 miles
from the Burch ranch to the "cloth city," as it was then
called. Pinney was employed by Mr. Burch as clerk to
purchase the goods, and consequently I had very little
to do while at Sacramento. We remained at the city
during Monday and Tuesday. Pinney in the meantime
made his purchases, and on Wednesday we were pre
pared to start for Feather River with our cargo of stores
and provisions, liquors, etc.
Sacramento City at this time was built principally of
cloth houses and tents. However, there were a few very
fair framed buildings and numerous smaller shanties.
122

ADVENTURES BY FLOOD 123
It was generally known as the "Rag City," which
was an appropriate name indeed. Almost all the better
class of buildings in the city were occupied as gambling
places, drinking saloons, or something equally as bad.
Sacramento City is situated at the junction of the
Sacramento and American Rivers, and near Sutter's old
fort, on land originally granted to Captain Sutter by the
Mexican government. The location of the city is low
and subject to inundations at extreme high water. Large
steam vessels ply between this city and San Francisco.
The fare is from thirty to forty dollars.
Sacramento City is at the head of ship navigation on
the Sacramento, but small vessels can go above.
In the spring of 1849 this place began to be boomed
as a city and now it contains several thousand inhabi
tants, and is a smart business place. Everything here is
life and bustle, where fortunes are made in a day and
are lost as quickly. A large amount of sickness prevails
at the present time.
Dr. Haines and C. S. Fifield, who left us on Raft
River, are both in the city at the present time. Fifield
has a paint shop and is doing a good business. Dr.
Haines has a small hospital for the sick and seems to
be doing a considerable business and says he is making
money. Mr. Woodbury, who was a member of the Granite
State Company from New Hampshire, is with Dr.
Haines, and is very sick. He was taken with the
diarrhoea soon after he entered the valley and has since
continually been growing worse.

124 He knew me very readily when I entered his room,
and taking me by the hand, said with tears in his eyes,
that he should never again see his home or his friends.
I tried in vain to cheer him, telling him that there still
was hope for his recovery, but it was all of no avail.
He said he should live but a few days, and his predic
tion proved too true. Poor fellow ! A wife and family
in New Hampshire waited in vain for his return home.
While in Sacramento I also saw a Mr. A. Webster,
with whom I became acquainted before I left Hudson.
He was sick with the scurvy, and unable to perform any
labor. He was selling cakes on the levee. I thought
that his existence, too, would soon terminate, but I never
after heard from him. Probably he sleeps, with the
many thousands of gold hunters, on the banks of the
Sacramento — the sleep that knows no waking.
Instances of a similar description are almost daily met
with in California. Men who left their homes and
friends in the East to take their chances in the mines, if
possible, to gain a few paltry dollars in the New Eldo
rado, are stricken by disease, and death soon ends their
earthly career. It seems truly hard to die in California
among strangers, with no friends near to sympathize and
in some small degree, alleviate the pains of their dying
moments. On Wednesday, December 26, we left Sacramento City
and started on our journey for Feather River, Our boat
was loaded down with provisions, liquors and other
articles. Thomas D. Bonner was captain, A. W. Pinney
and myself constituted the crew, and we had two pas
sengers aboard — a North Carolinian by the name of

ADVENTURES BY FLOOD. '125
Stedman, (who by the way agreed to work his passage
up the river), and a physician from Nova Scotia.
The North Carolina man seemed to be somewhat
bigoted and wanted the best accommodations the boat
afforded, and while we were making our way up the
river he never offered to pull an oar or do anything to
assist us in the least, but always kept the best seat aboard
the boat dry from morning until night by sitting upon
it steadily with an India rubber blanket over him when
it rained, which was a considerable part of the time.
This did not appeal to me as being the proper manner
for him "to work his passage" up the river, as the stream
was high with a rapid current: With a heavily loaded
boat it was quite difficult for two men to make any
progress with their oars against the strong current. As
Captain Bonner failed to remind Mr. Stedman about his
agreement to work his passage up the river, I thought I
would take the risk to jog his memory in relation to it.
The result was instantaneous and Mr. Stedman and I
had a falling out immediately. He was quite excited and
seemed to be on the point of exploson. I certainly antici
pated an immediate challenge from Mr. Stedman to
meet him in deadly combat and settle the matter Southern
fashion. But for some unknown cause he suffered me
to continue to live. Had a challenge been forthcoming
I cannot now say what the outcome would have been.
The Sacramento was very high, almost at full banks,
and having had a head wind, we made very slow progress.
At some points along the river the banks were overflown
and the valley for miles in extent back from the river
was one wide sheet of water, extending as far as the eye

126 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
could reach. The valley of the Sacramento is nearly
level and extends from the river to the Sierra Nevada
mountains on the east, and to the coast range on the
west, and at some points it is fifty or sixty miles wide.
Pinney and myself pulled the boat up the river against
the wind and current, Captain Bonner sitting in the stern
and steering her, while Mr. Stedman and the doctor
made themselves as comfortable as was possible under
the circumstances.
We had three barrels of liquors, brandy and whiskey,
aboard and soon after we began to ascend the river,
Captain Bonner, president of the New Hampshire Tem
perance society, and late a noted temperance lecturer, not
withstanding, tapped one of the whiskey barrels and
commenced drinking the contents. This movement on
his part somewhat surprised me, although I had began to
learn not to be easily surprised at the acts of men in
California. But I had heard Captain Bonner say much
in favor of temperance and I supposed he would be
among the last to taste of whiskey.
At first he drank a little, and after a short time he
took a little more, and he continued to take a little quite
often and said he could not live in California without it.
He said that he had once been a hard drinker, and I was
afraid that he was in great danger of falling into his
former evil practices.
He argued that it was impossible for him to live with
out it in California. It had once saved his life, but that
if he should return to his home in the East, he would
again be as strong an advocate of temperance as for
merly. How this proved I cannot say, but while I knew

ADVENTURES BY FLOOD 127
him in California after I was with him on this trip, he
appeared to be one of the most confirmed hard drinking
men that came within the circle of my acquaintance.
To pull the heavily loaded boat against the current we
found to be very hard work and the progress was quite
slow. We had made our way up the Sacramento a con
siderable distance, when one day, owing to the head wind
being so very strong, we could make little or no head
way ; we were compelled to tie up and remain nearly the
whole day.
This was at a point where several choppers were at
work cutting wood for the Sacramento market. They
were paid eight dollars per cord for cutting it and were
not required to split it. This I thought would be a good
job, and that if Mr. Pinney would hire another man in
my place to help pull the boat up the river, I would stay
and cut wood for a while. I promised Mr. Burch my
wages for the time I had been on the trip, thinking he
could find no fault with that arrangement. Mr. Pinney
thought I was under obligation to him to help dig the
ditch for Mr. Burch and said that if I stopped here he
should do the same.
I knew that such an arrangement would not be fair
treatment to Mr. Burch. Mr. Pinney had a settlement
to make with him in regard to the purchases made and
the funds remaining in his hands. He also had con
tracted to excavate about 120 rods of ditch. I had con
sented to dig a part of it and would not refuse to do it
without his full consent. Still I thought he might release
me. Under the circumstances I continued to go up the
river with the boat.

128 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
On the 5th day of January, 1850, we reached a point
on the river about twelve miles below Burch's ranch,
where we were met by Mr. Burch, who concluded to go
with us up the river in the boat. Our passengers left us
here and started on foot toward the mines.
After meeting Mr. Burch we proceeded toward our
destination and on the night of January 7th reached a
point not more than one and one-half miles below
Burch's. Two or three days previous we had fallen in
with another boat and party bound up the river, laden
with provisions, owned and manned by some men from
the Pine Tree state. They were two brothers by the
name of Frye, Jack Percy, and a man working for them.
On the night of the 7th we all camped on the bank of
the river almost within sight of home — "Our California
Home" — but on the opposite side of the river. The night
was dark and stormy and the rain descended in torrents,
with the wind blowing almost a gale from the south.
After several fruitless attempts we succeeded in starting
a fire, by which we cooked some pork and flapjacks.
On the morning of January 8th it still rained as hard
as on the night previous. We started on our journey as
early as it became sufficiently light to see how to arrange
our camp fixtures properly. We did not even remain to
prepare any breakfast, but started with the expectation
of reaching Burch's ranch before noon. We were not
long in reaching the foot of the rapids in company with
the Maine boat.
We had aboard a long rope and we concluded it would
be the better plan for all hands to pull one boat up by
the willow brush that grew along the water's edge a

From an Old Drawing.
SACRAMENTO CITY IN 1850.

ADVENTURES BY FLOOD 129
rope's length, and then draw the other boat up by means
of the rope.
The river being high and there being a strong head
wind blowing for us to contend with, together with the
fall in the stream at this place, we found it to be a slow
and very tedious process to pull a heavily loaded boat
up the river by the willows that skirted the shore. We
would first pull up one boat a rope's length, and then
draw the other boat after it, and thus we labored inces
santly until at length we succeeded in getting both boats
near the head of the rapids, when by some unfortunate
mishap, the boat got into the stream beyond the reach
of the willows, and before we could recover we were
again at the foot of the rapids and the other boat was
also with us. To pull her up again was the hard labor
of two or three hours, but it seemed to be the only prac
tical plan that we could pursue.
Consequently, we all worked with a will and at length
succeeded in pulling her up the second time, arriving at
a point a little higher up the stream than we reached at
the first time. We were pulling the other boat up after
us by the rope and holding our boat to the brush, when
suddenly the brush gave way and very soon both boats
were again at the foot of the rapids.
These repeated accidents and disappointments, consid
ering all the existing circumstances and conditions, were
anything but comforting to our empty stomachs and wet
backs. It was now getting toward the end of the day
and we had tasted no food since the night previous.
The rain had descended in torrents all day and we were
cold and wet, but to pull the boat again to the head of

130 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
the rapids before dark seemed to be our only alternative.
Could we succeed in getting our boat safely over the
rapids by daylight, we could soon reach our destination,
and we were anticipating a warm supper and dry
lodgings in Burch's tent.
Consequently, we once more, for the third time, worked
our way by the brush to the head of the long rapids, and
just as it was becoming dark we had succeeded in bring
ing both boats to the head of the rapids for the third
time. Just at that point of the river there was a short
bend in the stream so that we would get the benefit of
a fair wind from that point up. Pinney was in the bow
of the boat holding to the brush, Captain Bonner and
Burch were near the stern arranging to get under weigh,
and I was hoisting the sail.
Mr. Burch said: "Be sure to hold fast this time,
Pinney." But for the moment the latter seemed absent-
minded and before I had the sail raised he released his
hold upon the brush and seized the foot of the mast to
enter it into its place. Instantly we were again beyond
the reach of the brush, and very quickly were again at
the foot of the rapids ! Our companion boat continued
up the river without trouble, so far as we knew.
To work our way up again to the head of the rapids
that night seemed to be an impossibility. It had become
extremely dark. The rain continued to descend
copiously, as it had done continuously for more than
twenty-four hours. The river was so full of snags that
to make the attempt to cross it in the dark was to hazard
our lives.
We were on the opposite side from Mr. Burch's ranch,

ADVENTURES BY FLOOD 131
and also on the opposite side from another ranch owned
and occupied by a Frenchman, John Ruells. On the side
where we were there were no habitations within twelve or
fifteen miles. After a consultation we came to the con
clusion that the best we could do, under the existing cir
cumstances, was to land and await until the next morning.
Accordingly, we pulled our boat as far into the willows
as it were possible, and I, being at the bow, chained the
boat to a small tree. I thought it was probable that con
sidering the large quantity of rain that had fallen the
stream would continue to rise some during the night, and
to guard against accidents I chained the boat about three
feet above the water and gave it about twelve feet of
spare chain.
The small willows were extremely dense, and in mak
ing an attempt to reach the shore, I found the water at
the bow of the boat was five feet deep. As we had no
dry matches and there was no possibility of procuring
any fire, we concluded our condition would probably be
nearly or quite as comfortable aboard the boat during
the night, as it would be if we could succeed in reaching
the bank. Consequently, we concluded to remain on
board, though we had nothing cooked that we could eat
and we were cold and wet.
The rain was still descending and I believe that in all
my life I never laid down to a night's lodging with so
small a prospect of the enjoyment of a moment's com
fortable rest and repose as on that night. The rain,
although it was from the south, was cold, and each one of
us shivered so badly that the boat fairly quivered from
stem to stern !

132 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
I covered my head and after enduring the situation for
some hours, fell into a broken, dreamy slumber, from
which I was suddenly awakened with the cold water
rushing over me. I jumped to my feet immediately and
simultaneously with the whole crew. But we had no
sooner gained our feet than the boat went under, sending
us all with our load of freight into the river ! The boat
immediately after came to the surface with its keel up
ward. The first thought that occurred to me was to imme
diately strike out and swim to the shore, but my second
thought was to get upon the bottom of the boat and get,
if possible, a survey of my situation.
Consequently I pulled myself up upon the upturned
boat. At about that time Mr. Burch cried out: "For
God's sake pull me up or I shall drown." I took him by
the hand and drew him up. He said he could not swim
a single stroke. Captain Bonner, who had sometime been
a sailor, attempted to swim.
He wore his "sou-wester," a canvas hat painted white.
In the darkness I could just trace the white hat as it
slowly moved along the surface of the water, but it soon
disappeared from sight and then it reappeared. It al
most immediately disappeared the second time when I
reached for one of the oars that was within sight to
try and reach him, if possible. Again he came to the
surface and climbed up a small tree that was standing
in the water near the upturned boat. He climbed as far
up the tree as he could, it being the top of a small willow.
His feet were about four feet above the surface of the

ADVENTURES BY FLOOD 133
water. No sooner had he gained his position on the tree,
than he said he came very near drowning.
To all appearance our position since we chained the
boat to a tree the night previous had been transformed.
The rain had ceased to pour, clouds were beginning to
become broken, and the darkness was not so dense. We
could dimly discern on our side the waters of the river
rushing swiftly past, gurgling and whirling, carrying
along with them large masses of flood wood, intermixed
with immense logs and whole trees, while on the other
hand we could discover small trees and brush rising
above the surface of the water, and still a little farther
in the distance was a large growth of cottonwood trees.
The latter were probably some twelve or fifteen rods
distant to the east of our position. We could see no land.
The question of what was the immediate cause of this
severe accident soon began to be discussed among the
party. Mr. Burch made the inquiry who it was that
chained the boat. I answered that it was I who chained
it. He thought that it was not fastened sufficiently
secure and that it probably came unhooked, floated down
the river and in some way became capsized. The same
opinion at first seemed to be entertained by the majority
of the party. However, I knew it had been faithfully
secured and that it was almost an impossibility for it to
have become loosened.
It occurred to me that the boat was still chained to
the willow tree as we had left it when we had laid down,
and that the river had risen to such a height that the
bow of the boat had been drawn beneath the surface and
it naturally capsized. This seemed almost an impossi-

134 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
bility, but it proved ultimately to be the true version of
the cause of the accident.
After I had considered the matter as to the safest and
best course to pursue, I concluded to stay by the wreck
as long as it seemed possible, and the entire crew seemed
to be of the same mind.
We soon began crying for help at the top of our
voices, but at the same time we were without the slightest
hope or expectation that anyone could render us any
assistance on that night.
First one would cry aloud for a few moments and then
another would take it up for a time, and thus it would
go around through the whole list.
The day previous Captain Bonner had a two-quart jug
aboard which he had drawn nearly full of whiskey for
his own private use, and when he discovered the "little
brown jug" resting against the tree beneath his feet, he
was very much pleased. He soon recovered it and after
taking a drink from it, passed it around. It was about
one-half full when recovered and it went around at inter
vals the remainder of the night.
We were compelled to sit in the cold water nearly to
our waists, from the time of the accident until daylight,
and it was not anything like a comfortable position. As
near as we were able to judge, the boat upset about one
o'clock. Occasionally we heard a voice in reply to ours, but no
one came to our assistance until it became daylight, when
an Italian came in sight around the bend in the river in
a small zinc boat and took us ashore. Captain Bonner
had nearly perished.

ADVENTURES BY FLOOD 135
Before we were rescued the water had reached to his
waist, as he stood upon the tree, and he could ascend no
higher. Mr. Burch and Captain Bonner both said that
they never expected to see another day, and they would
have it no other way from the moment of the accident
until the rescue.
Mr. Burch stated and several times repeated it, that
he would willingly give all he possessed in the world
to be set on shore. I made the reply that I would pay
fifty dollars to any one to put me ashore safely, but that
vvas the extent I would give.
After getting ashore I found my limbs so benumbed
that it was with great difficulty that I could walk a
step. About ten o'clock we partook of a little breakfast that
had been prepared for us, it being the first of anything
we had eaten for upward of forty hours. On an in
vestigation a little later we found the river had risen
about twenty-five feet during the night, occasioned from
the heavy rains together with the melting of large bodies
of snow in the Sierra Nevada mountains.
After two days' rest we all felt nearly or quite as
well as if nothing had befallen us, and strange as it may
seem, not one of the party even caught the slightest cold
from all the exposure.
The night of the 8th of January, 1850, will probably
be long remembered by all of this little party of four
men. At that time the great freshet and overflow at Sacra
mento City was experienced, which destroyed an enor
mous amount of property and caused so great an amount

136 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
of sickness, suffering and death — when it was said the
population of the city decreased about three-fourths in
the space of six weeks, owing to deaths from cholera,
fevers and others diseases, and from immigration to
other places.

CHAPER VII.
LIFE IN THE MINES.
After a lapse of 44 years — January, 1894 — I resumed
this narrative.
The foregoing was written not long after the events
therein written had transpired, from notes taken from
day to day. All those events were then fresh in my
memory. Such notes as I took subsequent to the 9th of January,
1850, while I remained in California, and later while I
was in Oregon, were not so copious and full, and what
I may hereafter write in relation to my experiences in
those states (then territories) for the next four years and
more will be drawn from these scanty notes, with the
assistance of a very retentive memory.
At the date of the sad experience with the boat on
the Feather River, January 9, 1850, I was a young man
of a little more than twenty-one years of age; while at
this time I am more than sixty-five, yet my memory is
still quite fresh in regard to many of those events that
transpired in those times, while I doubt not that many
others of equal interest may have been forgotten
altogether; or I may retain only a partial or faint recol
lection of them at this time.
In consequence of this, whatever I may write in the
following pages will be such only as I distinctly remen>
ber, and they will be a few of the leading incidents con-
137

138 THE GOLD SEEKERS OE '49
nected with my residence in California and Oregon until
August, 1854, when I returned to New Hampshire.
After a rest of two days from January 9, 1850, the
time of the accident with the boat, we again resumed
work with Mr. Burch, and soon after commenced the
excavation of the ditch, which was for the purpose of a
fence on three sides of a field of ten acres, Feather River
to form the boundary on the remaining side. The land
was sandy and free from stones, and the shoveling ex
cellent. We made a very good job, as by hard work
we could each excavate four or five rods a day. The
weather at this time was pleasant. The rainy season had
not entirely passed, but February was a fine month and
very agreeable.
After the ditch was completed, as Mr. Burch had no
more work for us, we traveled down the river to Yuba
City, a small, new village on the west bank of the Feather
River, opposite the mouth of the Yuba River.
At that time Marysville, situated on the other side of
Feather River and a short distance up the Yuba, was
composed of very few buildings, with the exception
of Nye's ranch, which was one of the old California
adobe ranches. This was substantially at the head of
steam navigation on Feather River, and there was quite
a rivalry between the two "cities" — each trying to be
come the "city."
Yuba City had the first beginning, but Marysville later
outrivaled her and became the more important place. At
this time two or three small steamers plied between Sac
ramento, Yuba City and Marysville. The largest of
these was a flat-bottomed boat of considerable size, which,

LIFE IN THE MINES 139
if I remember correctly, was the Vezie. It was owned
by a company from Maine, called the Vezie Company,
and was built in Maine, taken around Cape Horn on a
vessel, and set up in California. I believe Captain,
Colonel or General Vezie was at the head of the com
pany. Green oak wood was used for fuel to operate the
steamboat, and as there was quite a number of men
present, members and stockholders of the company, a
small board shanty was erected a short distance below
Yuba City for the accommodation of the choppers who
undertook to cut the fuel for the steamer from the oaks
that grew near by.
The majority of these men were young and were en
tirely unused to such hard manual labor as chopping, and
the outcome was that eight or ten of them could not, or
did not, cut a sufficient amount of wood to supply the
boat with fuel.
Shortly after our arrival at Yuba City, I met the agent
of the steamboat company and made an agreement with
him to cut 100 cords of wood at $6.50 per cord.
The wood was to be cut three feet in length and split,
but no deduction was to be made on account of its short
length. I informed Pinney and Butler of the contract
I had entered into, and of course they expected to take
part in the job.
Mr. Pinney was a native of Vermont, and cutting cord
wood had been his principal work for many years.
For several years previous to his immigration to Cali
fornia he had resided in Pelham, and had cut wood for
about nine months in each year, being engaged at haying

140 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
and other work for the farmers during the heated term
of summer. He was noted in Pelham as being an expert
chopper, one that could cut more wood in a given time
than any other man known in or about Pelham. Mr.
Butler and myself both knew how to use the axe, but
had never cut very much cord wood.
Mr. Pinney made the remark that in all probability
he would cut as much wood as Mr. Butler and myself
together. I made the reply, that if he should cut twice
as much wood as I did, I would leave the job.
A ferry spanned the river from this place to the
Marysville side, and the fare for foot passengers was
fifty cents each way.
No axes were on sale in Yuba City, and Mr. Pinney
was selected to go to Marysville and purchase three
chopping axes. In due time he returned with the axes —
three being the entire stock found in the market in
Marysville. As I remember, the price paid was ten dollars each,
without helves. One of them was about the ordinary size
and weight for a chopping axe, while another was a
large, heavy one, and the third light and small like a
boy's axe. Mr. Pinney selected the one of medium size
for himself, and said that Mr. Butler and I could make
such arrangements as we should choose in regard to the
other two. I gave Mr. Butler his choice and he took
the heavy one. We made arrangements with a man by
the name of Galushia, who had a tent, to supply us with
board at the price of two dollars per day. He did the
cooking over a fire outside the tent.
We each made a helve and hung the axes and began
chopping. The wood was the white oak species and was

LIFE IN THE MINES 141
growing a short distance back from the river. The trees
were principally large, very old and brash, not very tall
but with numerous large branches spreading over a wide
surface. The trees were scattering, with no underbrush,
"oak openings." It was seldom that we cut the trunks
of the trees into wood, but left them on the ground,
making use of the branches only. In many instances we
would climb the trees and cut off the branches and leave
the trunk standing.
The first of my work at chopping caused my hands
to blister badly. It was late in the forenoon when I
commenced, and when it became night I felt an anxiety
to know about how much I had succeeded in cutting. I
piled and measured it, when I found I had cut in the
short day, one and one-quarter cords, or had earned over
eight dollars.
By the agreement made we were not required to pile
the wood, but the company was to have it drawn out and
piled on the bank of the river, where it could be
measured. We were not a long time in completing the contract
of cutting one hundred cords, and we made another con
tract to cut another hundred cords. Each of us had our
wood kept separate and piled by itself. Some days,
when I was fortunate in the selection of a good tree, I
would cut as much as four cords ; while on some other
days, when I had a bad tree, I would not cut more than
two cords. The first week or ten days of chopping
caused my hands to become very sore, so much so that
the helve of the axe would be covered with blood when
they came in contact with it.

142 the gold seekers of '49
March i, 1850.
After having worked at chopping about one month
and having had our wood drawn out and measured, it
was found I had cut almost two-thirds as much as had
Mr. Pinney, and Mr. Butler had cut about one-half as
much. As spring was approaching and as gold mining was
our chief object and uppermost in our minds as a means
by which to make a fortune in California, we thought
the time was near at hand when we should select a min
ing claim for the coming summer.
At that time it was almost the universal opinion among
the miners of California that the beds of the rivers and
large streams must be very rich with gold dust. That
to turn the water from its natural channel so as to be
able to work out the gravel from the bed of the stream,
a quick fortune was almost sure to result.
The mines had been worked for a comparatively short
time, and this plan had not been tested in only a few
instances. The theory was that as gold was found
in greater or lesser quantities along the shores of nearly
all the streams, in almost every bar, and in paying quan
tities in a great number of them, if the river bed could
be worked there would be necessarily large deposits of
the yellow metal, as owing to its great specific gravity it
would naturally seek the lowest levels and there remain.
The rivers in the mountains were a succession of falls
and rapids, and at many such places it was practical to
construct temporary dams, so as to turn the streams
from their channels for a greater or lesser distance.

Life in the mines 143
Almost the entire mining population of Feather River
in the spring of 1850 was engaged in enterprises of this
nature. Many had selected their mining claims in the
autumn previous or in the early winter, and had worked
upon them during the winter in making preparations to
carry their project into execution as early in the spring
as the water should become low enough to permit of its
being successfully carried out. The Pelham company
Owned a claim on the south fork of Feather River, where
they had built and were occupying a comfortable log-
house, and had expended much time and labor in making
the necessary preparations.
They bought a pitsaw with which they sawed sufficient
plank for the construction of a long flume to carry the
water a considerable distance. In appearance it was one
Of the most promising gold claims in the mountains. It
was almost certain that for each one of the company
there was a fortune awaiting in the bed of the stream.
Numerous similar companies were constructing im
provements of greater or lesser magnitude. Everybody
seemed sanguine of success.
We were doing fairly well at cutting wood and could
continue to cut for the Vezie Company at six dollars per
short cord. We could earn on the average, including
some rainy weather, twelve or fifteen dollars a day.
But we naturally reasoned something different. If our
friends in the mines should strike it rich and succeed in
making a moderate fortune in a few months and we
should spend our time cutting wood when we had the
opportunity of securing a claim at some place along the

144 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
river, perhaps equally as rich as others, we should regret
that we did not attend to it at the opportune time.
After discussing the matter in many different aspects,
it was decided by us that Mr. Pinney would remain and
cut wood, while Mr. Butler and myself would go up the
river into the mountains and endeavor to secure a claim.
Consequently, we left Yuba City and went up the
Feather River into the mining country. After prospect
ing for several days, we succeeded in securing a claim on
the middle fork of Feather River, nearly thirty miles
above Bidwell's.
At this time large quantities of snow still remained
in the mountains above Bidwell's Bar. We made suffi
cient arrangements to comply with the mining rules and
regulations to hold the claim, and formed a company.
The names of all of this company I do not at this time
recall, but at least there were two additional men that
made the journey with us from Boston to California —
Alden J. Nutting, of Westford, Mass., and Cyrus
Whittemore, of Antrim, N. H.
The most promising claims had been selected and we
made the best arrangements that seemed practical at
that time.
The winter of 1849-50 was noted for the great amount
of rain that fell in the valleys and the enormous depth
of snow that accumulated in the mountains. It was not
expected that the streams would become sufficiently low
so as to admit of working our claim before June.
After making the arrangements to hold the claim we
returned to Bidwell's and did some mining there and at
a place on the middle fork of Feather River, about 15

From an Old Print.

POSTOFFICE IN '49.

LIFE IN THE MINES 145
miles from Bidwell's. The water being high our success
was poor.
While at Yuba City I became acquainted with a man
by the name of Damon. Capt. Robert D. Bonner went
into trade then in company with anothep man and de
sired to hire some money at 10 per cent interest per
month. I loaned him a considerable sum, but unforunately I
never received from him any interest nor any part of
the principal. I soon afterwards lost sight of him and
never knew his fate. As he had become very dissipated
probably he did not survive long.
Hay had sold at very high prices the winter previous,
in some of the cities as high as $500 per ton.
Mr. Damon of Yuba City made the proposition that
we go up Feather River to a suitable place and there cut
and stack a lot of hay and sell it later. He said he
could not mow himself, but that he would hire a man
to mow with me, and as he owned a horse, he would
draw the hay together and pile it up, and we would
sell it before the rainy season should set in.
I acquiesced in the proposition and we went up the
river a few miles to a place where we found the grass
was quite good. We bargained for the right to cut as
much as we might desire for a nominal sum from a
man that owned a ranch nearby. He was a squatter and
probably had no more right to the grass than we had.
Mr. Damon owned one scythe and we succeeded in
finding another — an old one — which we purchased for
about fifty dollars. Mr. Damon hired Alden J. Nutting,
before mentioned. Mr. Nutting was a short, thick set,

146 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
robust, muscular man, and seemed to be in the enjoy
ment of good health.
The grass grew on the river bottom and was the nat
ural product of the soil. It stood quite thick and was a
fair crop, but had been trampled by cattle that had
ranged over it and fed upon it at will, which caused it to
be slow and difficult mowing.
We commenced mowing on Monday morning and I
continued mowing every day through the week until Sat
urday night. Mr. Nutting complained of being ex
hausted and quit work at Thursday noon, but resumed
again on Friday morning. There was no dew there at
the time and the hay remained in the swath as it fell
from the scythe, where it cured perfectly.
The next week we pitched it together into small piles
where we loaded it upon a wagon and formed it into a
square pile on the ground in a broad, open field.
Rakes of any kind we did not use. We did some more
mowing for Mr. Damon, as he would need some to feed
to his horse.
Our stack of hay was about 40 feet long by 30 feet
wide and ten or eleven feet high, and was estimated to
contain twenty tons.
It is impossible at the present time, after the lapse of
nearly forty-five years, to give from memory a connected
account of all the transactions in which I was engaged
during the spring, summer and fall of 1850. Con
sequently, I will write about events of which I find my
original minutes, or others of which I still have a dis
tinct memory, without regard to the exact dates or order
in which they transpired. It is possible that some events

LIFE IN THE MINES 147
which I may relate may have taken place at a time pre
vious to that of cutting the hay.
Some time I believe during that spring as Mr. Pinney
and myself were returning from the mines on our way
tc Marysville, or Yuba City, we made a stop at Charles
Burch's ranch, where we met a party of surveyors.
The engineer, Robert Elder, a Scotchman who had
been employed for twelve years as an assistant engineer
on the Michigan and Illinois canal, said to us that he was
short of help and would like to employ us for a short
time if our price was satisfactory.
Having no particular work in view, we set our price at
eight dollars per day with board. Mr. Elder thought
that was more than he could afford to pay for help that
had had no experience at such work, but said we could
go to work on trial for two or three days.
He was laying out a new city a short distance farther
up the river, it being a mile square, or nearly so. He
had then worked upon it for a few days. The survey
was being done for a company in Sacramento City, who
later erected one or two large buildings, and made con
siderable effort to get a city started, but at length it
proved to be a "paper city," as has been the fate of
numerous other like schemes in the West. We com
menced work and after a few days were constantly ex
pecting a notice of acquittal from Mr. Elder, or other
wise a reduction of wages. Nothing, however, was said
by either party in regard to it for nearly two weeks,
when I inquired of him how much longer he supposed
our services would be needed. His reply was : "I would
like to have you stay a good while."

148 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
Mr. Elder was a very kind man, yet he was somewhat
eccentric, and his likes and dislikes very decided. Up
to that time I had no reason to believe that he had any
preference for me over Mr. Pinney.
We worked a few days after the time of the incident
narrated, when one day he said to me that he would
suspend work and go to Marysville for a few days and
he desired us to go with him. We had boarded with an
Englishman whom Mr. Elder had employed for that pur
pose, but he had lived at the ranch or house of a French
man by the name of John Roulo, located more than a
mile down the river. Mr. Roulo had an Indian wife.
The Englishman was not a bad cook, but the principal
diet for breakfast, dinner and supper the week through
was stewed beef. This beef was of good quality and was
very well cooked, but it did not agree with me for a
constant diet, with scarcely any other kind of food.
About this time we went to Marysville, and Mr. Elder
took a trip to Sacramento City to consult with some of
the officers of the company for whom we were at work,
or they came to Marysville, I am not certain which.
Mr. Elder desired me to remain and return with him.
I made the proposition that I would do so upon the con
dition that I should board at the Frenchman's, where he
did. I confessed I could not stand the Englishman's
stewed beef any longer. He said I could just as well
board at that place and might have done so if I had
spoken about it to him. We returned and I worked until
the job was finished. Mr. Pinney did not return with us.
There was in our party a Scotchman by the name of
Campbell, one of the Sidney convicts. He was quite

LIFE IN THE MINES 149
agreeable when he was sober, but sometimes he would
get partially intoxicated, and then he was a bad man to
get along with. He appeared to be a man of good educa
tion and understood surveying. Mr. Elder was obliged
to be absent a part of the time, and in his absence he
made Mr. Campbell his foreman.
Sometimes when he had indulged too freely of
whiskey, he would neither work himself nor permit any
one else. This did not suit me, as I intended to labor
just as faithfully in the absence of Mr. Elder as I would
if he were present.
One day when Mr. Campbell became quite drunk and
foolish, and had allowed but very little work to be done
by the party until afternoon, my patience had become
exhausted. I undertook to drink from the waterpail
that was standing nearby under a large tree, when he
gave the pail a sharp tilt, which spilled some of the con
tents upon me. I started the second time to drink from
the pail and he repeated the same foolish trick. After
he had done this for several times, I dashed all the re
maining water in the pail squarely into his face. He at
once became almost frantic with rage, and seizing an axe
threatened to cut me in pieces. I kept myself a short
distance beyond his reach, and laughed at his threats.
I knew it was an easy matter for me to keep beyond
his reach, but I didn't know how long his anger would
continue to rage, or whether he would revenge himself
at some convenient time in the future when I might not
be expecting it. After a short time he ordered me to go
to the river near by and refill the pail with water, but
he still held the axe in one hand and the pail in the other.

150 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
I invited him to put aside the axe and give me the pail,
which he finally did, and I immediately complied with
his request.
After Mr. Elder returned I spoke to him in relation
to Mr. Campbell's actions, and he discharged him. The
next winter I heard that he was lynched at some place
in one of the mountain valleys for horse stealing.
One incident I always remembered which took place
while we were employed on this job. When we were
boarding at the French ranch, we carried a lunch for
our dinners, which we would eat while seated under a
large oak tree. One day we sat down in the shade of
a large branching tree and ate our dinner and rested
ourselves perhaps nearly an hour. Upon starting for
our work we had gone but a short distance from the
tree, where but a moment previous we had been quietly
seated, when we heard a loud crash, and upon turning
around we saw that a very large limb had broken from
the tree and had fallen exactly upon the spot where we
had been seated but a moment previous.
This branch at the point of breakage was more than
a foot in diameter, and probably contained nearly a cord
of wood. There was not a breath of wind stirring and
the branch had broken from its own weight, being just
fully leaved out. It seemed to me to be a very narrow
escape from a serious accident. I afterwards learned
from my own observation that it was very often that
limbs broke from such trees when loaded with leaves and
there was no wind stirring.
Mr- Elder seemed to manifest a deep interest in my
welfare, and while he was drafting the plan of the survey

LIFE IN THE MINES 151
we had made, desired me to learn to use the portractor,
scale and dividers.
At that time I had no intention of taking up the
business of surveying, although from what little experi
ence I had had with it, I thought I would like the work
very much. I practiced with the instruments as I had
the time to spare from my other work, and learned
something about portracting and the use of the scale and
dividers. Later in the same season I assisted Mr. Elder in lay
ing out another "paper city," but it was not of so large
extent as was the former one.
Not only was the winter of 1849-50 an excessive one
in cold and storms, but the year 1850 was the most try
ing in the history of the gold-seekers. The struggles for
the possession of titles to the claims staked out by the
prospecting miners reached a critical stage; the cholera
raged in every section of the Pacific slope — aye, spread
from ocean to ocean — and in addition to these and the
trials and uncertainties of life in the mines, where
hundreds were losing to one making, the Indians started
upon the warpath.
Early in the summer, while I was at work at Bidwell's
on Feather River, I witnessed the interesting and some
what startling spectacle of a band of her men decked
out in all of the horrible panoply of savage warfare.
All were elaborately painted in striking colors and armed
in Indian fashion, bows and quivers, decorated in bright
figures and filled with sharp pointed arrows tipped with
glass heads, knives and other implements of a warlike
nature.

152 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
These dusky forces were composed of the "Valley
Indians," as the native inhabitants of the lowlands were
called, among whom was a branch known as the "Digger
Indians," and the mountain tribes that had their homes
in the Sierra Nevadas and adjacent highlands. The last
named tribes were at enmity with the first — a predatory
warfare that existed for a long period — a war as it
seemed to the bitter end.
An Indian village was situated twenty or twenty-five
miles from Bidwell's easterly in the Sierras, which I had
frequently passed through when I was prospecting in the
Feather River gold mines.
One day about noon there suddenly appeared in this
little mining settlement a file of naked Indian warriors,
forty or fifty in number, nearly all young men in the
vigor of manhood, all apparently sound, well developed,
beautifully proportioned, athletic men, the leader the
most conspicuous figure. They came into view traveling
at a slow dog trot, single file, each at a uniform distance
from his file leader. No word was uttered, and no one
of them preceptibly turned his head to the right or to
the left.
As the foremost reached the river, which at that place
was deep and of considerable breadth, he stepped boldly
and deliberately into the current without the slightest
hesitation, and swam quickly to the opposite shore, where
he again resumed the Indian trot of a few minutes
before. Even the river did not break the line or check
the speed materially, but the line was maintained and
the speed was continued on and up the steep mountain
incline as on the level, without break or hesitation, far,

LIFE IN THE MINES 153
far up the rugged mountain trail as we could see, their
military order and discipline unbroken.
They were from a valley tribe and had suddely come
into view, passed through the village, swam the river,
climbed the mountain side, and passed beyond our view
in silence, bent on their errand of bloody carnage and
death. Determination, vengeance and savage destruc
tion was pictured on every brow.
Something of vital moment to the aboriginal popula
tion not far distant was about to transpire. And it was
not long delayed. It was learned a little later that the
Indian village in the mountains before mentioned, was
suddenly and sadly surprised on the night of the day
that the war party passed through Bidwell's, and for
the small Indian settlement it proved a great slaughter
or massacre of the men, while a large number of the
women and children were taken prisoners and conducted
to new homes.
Some time in the spring, James M. Butler being some
what out of health, went to the Pelham camp to do the
cooking for the company, where he remained until late
in the fall, when he returned to his home in Pelham.
I did some mining at Bidwell's and one or two other
places while we were waiting for the water to subside.
We visited our claim on the middle fork of Feather
River several times, and made preparations to work it
as soon as the state of the water would admit of doing
it. We were obliged to convey all the provisions needed
there on our backs over the mountains from Bidwell's
Bar, a distance of 25 or 30 miles.

154 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
It was some time in July when the water became suf
ficiently low so as to admit of working the claim to
advantage. At that time the companies that had taken
claims in the most favorable locations had succeeded in
getting a part of the water turned aside from the chan
nel, so that they had begun to work some of the beds
of the streams. A few of those who had succeeded in
working any part of the river bed had found the claims
rich, but a very large majority of such mines were only
paying very moderately, and many were almost entirely
worthless. Some companies that had been at work all
winter making preparations to turn a stream from its
bed, when at last they had succeeded at the cost of so
much labor and expense, found the bed of the stream so
poor that it would not pay the expense of working. This
state of affairs was not encouraging for us. As yet we
had expended but little labor on our claim, but in loss of
time in making arrangements, going back and forth con
veying provisions and tools, with the loss of time in
waiting for the water to subside, all together made it a
matter of considerable magnitude, reaching probably two
or three thousand dollars. However, it was not our
purpose to abandon our claim without a fair trial.
Instead of arranging to turn the whole stream at once,
as we had originally intended, we concluded to construct
a wing dam, so as to be able to test the paying qualities
of the bed. If it should prove of such richness as to
warrant it, we could then build the dam as we had
planned and turn the whole stream. If it should prove
of poor paying quality we would abandon it.
Consequently, we constructed a wing dam so as to

LIFE IN THE MINES 155
be able to turn the water from a small part of the river
bed so as to permit of working so far as to be able to
test the quality.
After completing this work, and washing the material
from the river bed, we found but very little gold, not
sufficient to pay for working.
I would probably have had nearly or quite a thousand
dollars more than I did have at that time if I had kept
at work and taken no part whatever in or about any
river claim.
The Pelham company worked their claim and it paid
for working after the stream was turned, but the re
turns as a whole were small, and the company was dis
solved in the fall.

CHAPTER VIII.
THE ILLUSION OF "GOLD LAKE."
Many of the miners lost a whole season's labor, and
had no more than they had the fall previous. In the
early part of the season there was quite an excitement
at Marysville, and at the mines on Feather River, known
as the "Gold Lake" excitement.
This was caused by a man who told in some respects
a very plausible story or yarn. He said he had been a
long distance east into the Sierra Nevada mountains,
where he had made the discovery of a lake where gold
was so plentiful that it could be gathered in almost un
limited quantities.
He also said he was there at the lake for only a few
days and that he had gathered more than he could carry,
and had secreted it.
Many believed his story to be all true, and the result
was that quite a large company was gathered and went
away back into the mountains and camped. Gold Lake
was searched for but could not be found. It was said
that after getting back into the mountains the Gold Lake
leader appeared to be insane.
The result of the expedition was the discovery of
Nelson's Creek mines on a stream emptying into the
middle fork of Feather River, some 90 miles or more in
the mountains. 156

THE ILLUSION OF "GOLD LAKE" 157
Hearing of this discovery, which was said to be very
rich, I concluded to go and take my chances. This was
before we had built our dam on the old claim. Alden J.
Nutting went with me, as I remember. We traveled up
there on foot, and in those days in California every one
carried his blankets, if nothing more. When we arrived
at Nelson's creek, we found a large number of people
already there, provisions scarce and high, and although
there were some very good mines, they did not appear
to be very extensive or lasting. We made a prospecting
tour farther east among the mountains for two or three
days, but as we found no gold in paying quantities, we
soon after returned to the valley.
After we had abandoned our claim on the middle
fork, I concluded to go to Nelson's Creek again.
I started from Marysville and traveled up there
the second time. This was in August, and yet at one
place we traveled over a snow bank which we estimated
was 25 feet deep. After arriving there in company with
one or two others, I selected a claim on the middle fork
of Feather River, a short distance below the mouth of
Nelson's Creek, where the stream could be turned by
a dam. We thought there was a possibility that the river
bed might be rich, and we concluded to construct a small
wing dam sufficient to test it. We put in the dam so as
to throw the water from a small portion of the river's
bed. The claim proved as worthless as our first one.
I then traveled up Nelson's Creek two or three miles
and hired myself to a company who had turned the
creek from its course and was working out its bed.

158 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF 49
This was paying fairly well. If I remember correctly
I was to have ten dollars per day and board. The next
camp below ours on the creek was about 80 rods distant,
where three men were at work. They were all from
Vergennes, Vermont, and were neighbors before they
left home. They had a paying claim and were doing
well. As the stream between the two camps passed
through a small canyon, the trail was a rough one.
One Saturday night, about twelve o'clock, one of these
men came running up to our camp very much excited
and out of breath, saying his two partners had been
killed. His version of the matter was that, as they all
lay asleep, two or three men had killed his two com
panions with a hatchet while they slept, and that he was
awakened by the noise of the blows, to discover a man
with a hatchet raised over his head, just in the act of
striking him the fatal blow. He had jumped to his feet
and run for his life. He had heard someone running
after him, but from the sound he thought his pursuer had
fallen, and after that ceased to follow him.
We immediately went to the stricken camp, but could
do nothing that night. The next morning we went down
and found the two men in the creek. We took them
out and found their heads cut to pieces, and also found
the hatchet in the creek that was used by the murderers.
The men were said to have had a considerable quantity
of gold, which they kept under their heads. The gold
could not be found.
We rolled the murdered men in their blankets as well
as we could and buried them on the side of the mountain.
It would perhaps be natural for some to suspect the

THE ILLUSION OF "GOLD LAKE " 159
survivor of the three men as being the guilty murderer
of the other two, and that seemed to be the case to some
extent, especially by those who knew but little of the
circumstances, while all those that were present when the
murdered men were found and buried, were of the
opinion that he was innocent of the crime.
On the next Sunday, one week after the two dead men
were found and buried, quite a company of men came
into our camp, all being strangers. Soon after they be
gan to inquire in relation to the circumstances accom
panying the murders, and all such circumstances and
conditions were minutely gone into so far as was known.
After learning all that seemed to be possible to be
known about the sad matter, they quietly departed. We
did not know their mission at the time. Soon after we
learned that they came from a small mining town, a few
miles distant. They heard of the murders, and of the
circumstances of the three men being camped together,
two of whom were killed.
They had talked the matter over and discussed the cir
cumstances attending them, so far as they could learn
them correctly at such a distance, and at a public meeting.
They had arrived at the conclusion that the survivor of
the three men was undoubtedly the murderer. The men
that came to our camp had been selected at the meeting
for the purpose of investigating the case, and to try
the supposed murderer before Judge Lynch, and if found
guilty, execute him.
When they came over Sunday morning they supposed
it would all be completed and that they would return to
their homes before night.

160 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
But after an investigation had been made by them,
they came to the conclusion that the companion who had
made his escape was innocent.
At the time I left home for California in April, 1849, I
was not in the enjoyment of very good health. I was suf
fering somewhat from a cough, and it distressed me to
inhale a long breath. I did not feel strong and robust.
However, I had kept the matter a secret so far as was
possible, thinking that if my friends knew the conditions
they would oppose my going to California, and I was
fully determined to go if possible and take the conse
quences, whatever they might be.
This condition of my health continued in some degree
for a considerable length of time. While at Inde
pendence, Missouri, where we remained about four
weeks, my illness caused a pain in my side when I rode
horseback. The same was true after we had started on
our journey over the plains. It gradually wore away
and long before we reached the Rocky Mountains, my
health seemed to be perfect.
It continued to be excellent during all the last part of
the journey and through the winter of 1849-50. I was
more fleshy and of heavier weight at that time than I
had ever before been, or have been since. When cutting
wood at Yuba City I weighed more than 160 pounds,
but during the summer of 1850 I did not enjoy en
tirely uninterrupted good health.
Our work on Nelson's Creek was very laborious. It
lay in a mountain gulch, deep down, where it was quite
warm as long as the sun shone upon us. I cannot at
this time recall the exact length of time I worked there,

From an Old Print.
CUSTOM HOUSE ON THE PLAZA.

THE ILLUSION OF "GOLD LAKE" 161
but would say it was from two to three weeks. When
ever I labored in my life, I always intended to keep up
my end, or to perform my share of the work. No fault
was made known to me here.
However, I was not feeling as well as I could desire,
especially toward the close of my service there. Instead
of feeling any improvement, I grew steadily worse.
The last morning I went to my work I felt miserable,
but thought I would be able to overcome it, so I said
nothing. I worked until noon when I felt obliged to
quit for the day.
There was at that camp a man by the name of Jewett,
from some place in Massachusetts, who the winter pre
vious had stopped a while . at . the '. Pelham camp. The
tragic fate of the men so near our camp seemed to make
Mr. Jewett extremely nervous and timid. He seemed
to be almost afraid of his own shadow, and ever after
the tragedy he was talking about going to the valley, and
from there to his home in New .England. One obstacle
to his making an immediate start was that he lacked the
courage to go alone.
Two or three days after I had quit work he found
some parties that were going to the valley, and as there
was but two of them, he desired me to go with them to
enlarge the party, and as he seemed to believe, make it
safer. I replied that as I was sick, probably I could not travel
as fast as his party would desire to go, but if I did not
improve in health within a few days, I thought I should
go to the valley. I had no fear to travel alone and would
prefer to do so, as I could take my own time. He was

162 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
very urgent that I should go with him, and said as he
had a pack horse, he would carry my blankets and would
make the journey as comfortable as possible for me. I
finally consented, almost against my better judgment.
This was near the last of August or the first of Septem
ber. We started on the morning of the next day after the
arrangements had been completed. His horse was at
Onion Valley, about eight miles on our way. From Nel
son's Creek up the mountain, about one and one-half
miles, it was very steep. That brought us to the top
of the mountain. From there we traveled to Onion
Valley. There we took a little refreshments and then
packed the horse and started for Grass Valley, about 18
miles distant.
Although the air on the mountain was cool, the morn
ing was pleasant. While in California I wore no coat.
Shirts and pants were the clothing worn, and during the
rainy season when it was cooler we wore extra flannel
shirts. Blankets were much used instead of shirts when
miners were not at work. At that time I was dressed
with a "Hickory" shirt and thin pants, all cotton.
When we left Onion Valley my blankets were packed
ou the horse, as I didn't expect to need them on the road
while walking.
Soon after we left Onion Valley it commenced rain
ing, which soon after turned into a wet snow. This
melted nearly as fast as it fell, and being thinly clad as
I was, I was soon wet to the skin and very cold and
uncomfortable. I thought that if I could only get my
blankets out of the pack to put over my shoulders it

THE ILLUSION OF GOLD LAKE " 163
would be much more comfortable, and perhaps better for
the health of a sick man.
I spoke to Mr. Jewett about it and he replied that he
couldn't get at the blankets without unpacking the horse,
and that he thought I could get along without them. I
said no more about the matter. We at length arrived at
Grass Valley, thoroughly drenched and almost exhausted.
While Mr. Jewett and his party were pitching the tent
for the night, I went into a cloth eating house and seated
myself on a board before a small fire burning on the
ground. After being seated there for some time I felt
very faint. I could see nothing for several minutes and
everything looked black. I said nothing but kept my
seat, which was near the table. I soon recovered from
the faintness and became partially warm.
Supper was at length announced, but I did not desire
to leave my seat, neither did I feel like eating anything.
I turned and faced the table, ate a small piece of a
cracker and drank a little tea, paid two dollars for supper,
and again faced the fire.
When it was nearly night I went over a short distance
to Mr. Jewett's camp. He said I had the scurvy, but I
didn't think so. He wanted me to get some potatoes and
eat them raw, scraped in vinegar. He urged the matter
so persistently that I bought a pound of small potatoes,
for which I paid one dollar and a half, scraped some of
them into vinegar and made an effort to take them as
medicine. It was too much like an emetic for me. I
threw away those I had prepared, gave the balance to
Mr. Jewett, and told him that rather than eat raw
potatoes I would take my chances with the scurvy. But,

164 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
in fact, I did not believe I had the scurvy, and later I
was thoroughly convinced that I did not have it. Mr.
Jewett was very timid that night and very nervous.
Each one of the small party had some kind of fire
arms. I had a double barrel shotgun, which was loaded
with buckshot, but during the rain it had become wet
through so that it was impossible to discharge it without
giving it a thorough cleaning and drying. He desired
me to put it in thorough order and reload it. I told him
I would not do it, that I was about to lie down and make
myself as comfortable as possible.
He said we were all liable to be murdered before
morning. I said to him that I felt no fear of it, and that
I was willing to take the risk. The night passed quietly
away, and the next morning I felt slightly rested, but
no better otherwise. I had no appetite and was quite
weak. After Mr. Jewett and his party had eaten their break
fast, they packed up and started for the next camp, which
was twelve or thirteen miles distant.
We soon fell in with another small party that was
traveling the same way, ,and Jewett was very much
pleased to have their company.
I could not travel as fast as the party, and falling be
hind I traveled alone nearly the entire distance. When
I arrived at the camp I was nearly exhausted. I did not
at that time look for Jewett and his party. They were
preparing or eating their dinners a short distance away.
But I found my blankets where he unpacked his horse,
and I lay down upon them under a tree and soon fell
asleep.

THE ILLUSION OF "GOLD LAKE " 165
Not long after, I was awakened by Mr. Jewett, who
said he wanted my blankets to be packed. I told him he
couldn't have them any more, as I was going no farther
that day. He inquired the reason, and I said I could
go no farther until I had some rest. He asked me if I
was sick, and I asked him if he had just learned the fact.
I had supposed he knew it before we started, when he
promised to be so kind to me if I would go with him.
He desired that I would permit him to take my gun with
him, and promised to leave it at the Pelham camp. I was
glad to have him do this as it would release me of that
much load, and I was no more afraid to travel there in
the mountains unarmed at that time than I now fear to
travel the streets of Nashua in broad daylight.
This was the last I saw of Mr. Jewett. I afterwards
learned that he went to the Pelham camp, where he made
a short stay. He soon after went to San Francisco and
started for home, as I remember, by way of Mexico, but
it was said he never reached his home. What his fate
was I never knew. It seemed very certain that his cow
ardice was a much more prominent trait in his character
than his hospitality. I remained over at the place during
that afternoon and night, and the next day and night.
I felt somewhat rested, but did not improve much in
other respects. I didn't quite enjoy the place and thought
I would try to make a little progress toward the valley.
There were two or three stopping places on the road
within eight or nine miles, one of which was Strawberry
Valley. I believe the first one was about three miles
distant. I settled my bill and started in the morning,
traveling leisurely and reached the first station, where I

166 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
rested a while. I then went to the next and also to the
third. I had then made about nine miles in all. Here
I rested again, and at first thought I would remain until
the next day, the next stopping place being twelve miles
distant. As I didn't just fancy this place, I concluded
to start for the next station, and should I become ex
hausted before reaching it I could lie down with my
blankets for the night by the side of the road in the
dense woods. These mountains were very heavily tim
bered. I reached the place near night but I was very tired.
This "ranch" consisted of a cloth house, which contained
a "bar," table, a cooking stove, with some other furnish
ings. Near by was a large tent in which travelers could
sleep upon the ground by paying two dollars for the
privilege. I was glad to avail myself of even this meagre benefit,
but I awoke during the night suffering excruiating pains
in my body and limbs. I tried in vain to rise and stand
upon my feet. I believe I never suffered more severe
pains than during that night. The next forenoon I suc
ceeded, after long and laborious efforts, to get upon my
feet and move about a little.
I remained here four or five days and had mended
somewhat, so I was contemplating resuming my journey,
when I was surprised to see an old acquaintance enter the
tent. His name was George Carlton and he was from
Pelham, N. H., a man of somewhat rough manners but
with a kind heart. He was as glad to see me as I was
him. It seemed that Jewett had informed the party at
Pelham camp of the fact that he had left me in the

THE ILLUSION OF "GOLD LAKE" 167
mountains sick. There was no Jewett about Mr. Carlton.
The following morning, seeing that he was making
preparations to leave, some one asked him where he was
intending to go. He replied that he was going into the
mountains to see if he could locate Webster. Some one
of the company (one of the Pelham men, I will not men
tion his name) said he did not believe it to be wise for
them to take into camp any more invalids. Mr. Carlton
made the reply that they had learned that Webster was
reported sick in the mountains, and that he was about
to make an effort to find him, and that if he was dead
he would bury him, but if found alive, he would bring
him into camp. He started on foot and alone. At a
station below the place where he found me, he observed
a mule straying about the woods. It was a small animal,
thin and of but little value. Mr. Carlton gave the pro
prietor the circumstances, and he said he did not appre
hend that any owner would appear for the mule, and that
he could take it if he desired to do so. He led the mule
as he had no saddle, and the little brute was scarcely fit
for a saddle animal. It was in the forenoon of his second
day out that Mr. Carlton found me. I bought a saddle
from the proprietor of the place, and we started for the
Pelham camp. I rode the little mule. We reached camp
the next evening. Dr. Batchelder prescribed some medi
cine for me, which I believe was the only time I em
ployed a physician during my stay in California.
I remained with my Pelham friends five or six days,
improving in health quite rapidly.

CHAPTER IX.
MINING ON THE YUBA RIVER
Some time after we had cut the hay I met Mr. Damon,
my partner, when he said that he had concluded to go
to his home in the East for a short stay, and he would
return probably as early as the next winter or spring. He
desired me to sell the hay before the rainy season should
set in and retain his part of the proceeds until his return.
I proposed to send his share of whatever I should receive
for the hay to him in the East, but he said that it would
be his wish that I would keep it until his return.
One object I had in view when I left Nelson's Creek
was to attend to selling the hay. While it would be some
time before the rainy season would set it, there was
danger from fire. Everything in the valley was as dry
as tinder, and the hay was on the open plain where people
were passing back and forth to the mines and cities.
I concluded to make an effort to dispose of it. This
was some time near the end of September. I traveled
from the Pelham camp to the place where we cut and
stacked the hay and found it to be safe.
I sold a small part of it to some one, and then went
to Marysville. I there managed to dispose of the balance
on condition that the purchaser should do the teaming,
but that I should assist in the loading. The distance it
was to be drawn was 12 or 15 miles. As it would require
several days to do the teaming, and as there was no con-
168

MINING ON THE YUBA RIVER 169
venient place near by where I could procure board, I con
cluded to board myself and sleep on the hay. So I filled
a half barrel with water, procured a quantity of salt
pork and other provisions, which I hired drawn to the
haystack. I remained at that place and assisted the teamster in
loading the hay, otherwise I had no company with the
exception of coyotes, of which there were plenty.
These little animals of the wolf species were very
numerous at this time. They were not dangerous, but
were mischievous. They were small in size but they
could make a great amount of noise. About the time it
was becoming dark every evening they would begin their
howling. First, the voice of one would be heard in some
direction, which would seem to be answered by another
in another quarter, and then another and another would
follow, until there would appear to be a perfect chorus
of voices, howling and barking.
I had heretofore learned to keep completely out of
their way as much as was possible everything that I
had that they would care to eat. However, they soon
found my quarters, and I would hear them in the night
all about near where I was lying. At first I took little
notice of them. One night I was awakened by more
noise and disturbance than was usual, when I arose to
see what they were doing.
The moon shone brightly and I could see them in large
numbers around and very near me. I made an effort to
drive them away but they would scamper for a short
distance only, when they would stand and look at me.
Upon making an investigation I found they had drawn

170 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
my pork away a considerable distance into the grass. It
was in a sack and had been almost under my head. They
had also taken almost everything else that they could
find. I took the sack of pork and some of the other
most tempting articles I had to the top of the stack of
hay, and after making a hole in the pile and burying them
about two feet deep, I made my bed directly over them.
In this way I succeeded in preserving them from the
coyotes. The next morning I discovered that they had carried
away almost everything I had about the camp. They had
dragged away to a considerable distance a brand new
rope, about 30 feet in length. A new tin pint drinking
dipper, a tin spoon, and other articles I found scattered
about in various directions, and they had even invaded
my water cask and taken the bung out.
I don't now remember at what price I sold the hay,
but believe it was between $40 and $50 a ton, so we
made a very fair job in cutting it.
Between the time of the disposal of the hay and the
time of the setting in of the rainy season, I cannot at this
time give any detailed account of my work.
Some time during the season, and I believe it was dur
ing this time, I cut some more wood near Yuba City. At
that time the steamboat company did not wish to buy
any green wood, but they said if we should cut some and
have it drawn out and piled on the bank of the river
they would need it after it had become seasoned. Some
one, Worcester Gage of Pelham, as I remember, cut with
me. We cut quite a quantity and had it piled on the
river bank below Yuba City, near an Indian village.

MINING ON THE YUBA RIVER 171
About this time the cholera was raging among these
Indians to a fearful extent, and many of them died of
the disease. It was their custom to cremate their dead
bodies, which they did by placing them on a pile of wood
and burning it. The flesh was burned, but the bones
would remain unconsumed, which they would gather up
and deposit in a small hole in the ground, dug for that
purpose. When these bodies were being consumed it
created a very sickening odor. After the wood became
seasoned it was very convenient for these Indians to use
for their domestic purposes, and they carried away con
siderable quantities of it.
I once tried to frighten them, telling them that I would
shoot the first one that I should find in the act of remov
ing any of the wood. It seemed to me that there was
not so much removed afterwards. Before the wood was
sold Mr. Gage went home to Pelham and left his share
of the wood with me to be disposed of and to forward
to him his share of the proceeds. I afterwards sold it
and sent him his share of the money.
Some time during the fall, after I had sold the hay,
I was traveling up the road going toward Bidwell's, when
I heard a horse coming behind me, and on looking back
I saw some one riding toward me horseback that I soon
recognized as my friend Mr. Damon, though I had sup
posed he was in the states. He soon overtook me and
said he had been no farther than San Francisco, where
he had remained for some time, and had concluded to
return and not go East at present. On his reaching
Marysville he had learned that I had started for Feather
River mines, and he came on after me. I was not ex-

172 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
pecting him for several months and had made no plans
to pay him his share for the hay, but presumed of course
that he would like his money. I believe I was owing him
something more than $400.
I explained to him the situation, and said that probably
I did not have enough with me to settle with him in full.
He said he had anticipated that situation and that I could
pay him as much as I could conveniently spare, or if I
could not spare him any at that time it would be just as
well. After we had calculated the amount due him from
me, we went into one of the cloth hotels by the roadside
near by and weighed out the amount in gold dust that
was his due, and which exhausted almost the whole
amount I had with me. He almost absolutely refused to
take it all at that time, but I insisted and he did so. As
he was then present I desired to have the matter fully
settled. We then parted and he went toward Marysville, while
I continued my journey toward Feather River mines. I
have no remembrance of ever meeting Mr. Damon after
wards. He was a good man.
One incident that transpired during the spring of 1850
while I was in the mines of Feather River: Several of
us were camped there at the time, one of whom was a
man from some town in New Hampshire who crossed
the plains in company with us, and whose name as I now
remember it, was Watkins. He and I were taken at
about the same time with a similar illness, and one was
substantially as ill as the other. I didn't apprehend that
either of us was dangerously ill. Mr. Watkins soon lost
his courage and began to talk that the should never again

MINING ON THE YUBA RIVER 173
meet his friends at home. I endeavored to encourage
him to the best of my ability, but it seemed to have no
beneficial effect whatever.
Soon after I began to improve, but he grew worse con
stantly and became more despondent. We had a tent to
camp in, but as it was previous to the end of the rainy
season, there was yet some damp, cold, stormy weather,
and it was cold in the tent.
That he might be made as comfortable as was possible,
I constructed a stone fireplace at the end of the tent and
built a stone chimney to a point a little higher than the
ridge of the tent. This made it possible to keep a fire
so as to warm the tent and keep it dry and comfortable,
and it operated quite satisfactorily. Mr. Watkins seemed
to be very well pleased with the arrangements, but did
not improve. I nursed him to the best of my ability,
but he steadily declined, and a few days later he died.
We opened a grave in a convenient place, wound his
blankets about him, and buried him, which was all we
could do for him. Poor Watkins! He had gone to his
home, but not to the home that seemed to be uppermost
iu his mind.
One day in the fall of 1850, when I was in Marysville,
there was an auction at which horses were being sold.
A very thin, rundown horse was offered and as nobody
made a bid, I started it at a small amount, and as no one
raised the bid, it was knocked down to me. After making
a little inquiry I learned that a man keeping a ranch a
few miles out, took horses to herd. I took the horse out
there and engaged him to keep it until I should call for it.
Some time in November, about the time the rainy sea-

174 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
son set in, I one day met George Carlton at Marysville.
He inquired what my plans for the winter were. I had
made no definite plans for the future. He suggested that
we go up on the Yuba, as I remember it was to Park's
Bar, possibly it was Long's Bar, and work with him dur
ing the rainy season at mining. I consented to go with
him. At this time I believe the Pelham company had
broken up and scattered. A few of the number had gone
home or did so soon after, and the others were at different
places. The company had made some money, but their
mining claim did not yield anything near the amount of
gold that was expected of it.
Previous to this time I had met James M. Butler in
Marysville on his way to San Francisco and then to go
home. I sent by him to my brother Moses at Pelham
i8j4 ounces of gold dust, which at $16 per ounce, the
California price, was worth $300. This was to pay the
money borrowed to pay the expenses to California in
1849. Mr. Butler went home by the way of Mexico and
had a hard journey. He arrived home in January.
Mr. Carlton and I went up the Yuba River and made
a camp. I made a small quicksilver machine for washing
gold. It was of my own invention and I had made one
of the same kind before. It was made watertight, and
when working it the back end was set lower than the
front end. The quicksilver was worked in the rear end,
and that end being the lowest part of the machine, the
quicksilver would remain there. When the gold touched
the quicksilver it would amalgamate and be held there,
while the gravel would be washed away and pass out at

MINING ON THE YUBA RIVER 175
the other end of the machine. It operated very satis
factorily. The mines were not very rich at this place, but in good
weather we could each make from $8 to $12 dollars a
day, and some days considerably more. One advantage
here over many other places was that the water did not
give us so much trouble, as the bar was larger and
higher than many others. The rainy season was not
nearly so severe as was that of the year previous. We
could also procure better provisions. All eatables were
high, and that was to be expected, but they were of a
very fair quality. We could procure plenty of either
Irish or sweet potatoes, produced, I believe, at the Sand
wich Islands.
Mr. Carlton cooked the meat and potatoes and I made
and baked the bread and washed the dishes. We passed
a very comfortable winter.
At this place were two brothers by the name of Davis
from Nashua, N. H. The given name of the elder one I
believe was Josiah. If I remember correctly they both
lived to return home, but both died not very long after.
Josiah died first. The younger one was not more than
seventeen or eighteen years of age at that time, but he
was very active and smart. They kept a store in quite
a large cloth building very near our camp.
1 An elderly man from eastern Tennessee slept in the
building. He was a blacksmith and was probably a man
•who never accumulated very much property during his
life before he came to California. He owned a little
forge with a kit of tools and did jobs for the miners, for
which he received good pay, and he had accumulated

176 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
already between $2,000 and $3,000, all of which was in
gold dust and which he constantly kept secreted on the
ground under his blankets where he laid. He was very
jolly and happy and probably then had more money than
he ever anticipated having.
Within the same building lodged a man from Virginia,
a miner, a tall, spare man, always good-natured, but
somewhat taciturn or reserved, and appeared to be an
honest man, one which almost any one would not hesitate
to trust. The Davis brothers, and some others, also
slept in the same building.
I was very friendly with the Davis brothers, who by
the way, were brothers of the late S. S. Davis of Nashua.
I was in the building quite often when I was not at work.
One day Mr. Blacksmith came running from the build
ing about breakfast time, almost insane with excitement.
Upon making inquiry as to the cause of his grief he
said some one had stolen all his purse of gold. At first
it was thought he had probably mislaid it, and that it
would be found where he had put it.
An investigation was made at once, after which all
present were satisfied that a theft had been committed
by some one, but who the guilty party was no one could
seem to determine.
The first thing to be done was to make a thorough
search of every person known to have been in the build
ing that morning. That was done, and as I had been
into the place, I was searched with the others, but the
search revealed nothing.
There was a man there of rather eccentric character,
who was also mining on the bar. He made quite

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MINING ON THE YUBA RIVER 177
numerous inquiries, during which it was brought out that
the Virginia man went to the river quite early that morn
ing for a pail of water. After leaving the route he took,
the eccentric man took the trail and followed it to near
the river, where he discovered some traces or tracks lead
ing from the trail a short distance to a place where the
sand had been disturbed, as appeared, with some one's
hands. He didn't disturb it or even go to the place, but im
mediately returned and made report of his discovery.
A party soon after went with him, and digging away the
sand at the spot of the disturbance, the blacksmith's bag
of gold was revealed.
It was carried to the camp and Mr. Blacksmith was
asked to identify his bag of gold, which he had lost.
This was before he knew there was any prospect of ever
recovering it. This he readily did, and when it was
placed in his hands he was as happy a man as I ever
saw. He was so overjoyed that he wanted to give one-
half of it to those that found it.
However, the incident so shocked him that he con
cluded to return immediately to his home in Tennessee,
where he had a daughter. Soon after he left for home.
The evidence against the Virginian seemed to be quite
conclusive. He was the only person known to have
pursued that trail to the river that morning, and the
footprints in the sand agreed very perfectly with his
boots. "Judge Lynch" was soon summoned to hold a
court. The court was organized and the Virginian was
arraigned. The evidence was very damaging, but was
circumstantial and not entirely positive, every one

178 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
present and hearing the evidence seemed to believe him
to be the guilty party. The verdict of the court was to
the effect: That he was probably guilty of committing
the robbery, but as there was room for a little doubt,
he was entitled to that doubt. He was not sentenced
to be executed at once, provided he would leave the bar
immediately, otherwise, he must suffer the penalty. He
immediately left and I never again saw or heard of him.
We remained at that place until near the end of March,
1851. I believe I enjoyed our stay here better than any
other time of the same length during my time in Cali
fornia. My health was fairly good; we made average
pay, and had good company.
About this time we concluded 4o go to San Francisco,
where neither of us had yet been.
Mr. Carlton had been talking continually about going
tc farming in some of the coast valleys, which at that
time seemed to be paying good returns. We started for
Marysville. At that time the Yuba River was quite high, swollen
by recent rains, and we were obliged to make the cross
ing at a ferry. At the place of the ferry the current was
rapid and strong, and immediately below were falls or
rapids, full of immense boulders.
The ferry boat was a large one, made for the purpose
of carrying teams, mules and horses, as well as foot
passengers. It was held at its place and guided across
the river by a large rope made fast over the river. At
this high stage of water only foot passengers were
ferried over. The rope was a large one, but I noticed
that it was quite old and considerably worn.

MINING ON THE YUBA RIVER 179
There were several fellow passengers with us in cross
ing. As soon as we were fairly in the stream I noticed
there was a heavy strain on the rope, and it seemed to
me it was liable to part at any second. I looked at the
whirling, boiling stream below, that I might, if possible,
make some consistent attempt to save myself in case the
rope should part and we should go over the rapids.
I could see no possibility of escape for any one aboard
in that event. I uttered not a word until we had landed
safely on the opposite shore, when I made the inquiry
of the ferryman if he considered the rope used to be
safe for the purpose at that stage of water. He said he
believed it to be perfectly safe. I told him I could not
be hired at any price to recross the stream again under
like conditions, as I did not consider the rope safe.
I afterwards learned that on the following day, while
thirteen men were crossing in the same boat, the rope
parted and every one of the men, including the ferry
man, were drowned.
We went to Marysville, and I continued on to the
ranch where I had left the horse the fall previous. Upon
inquiring for my horse of the proprietor, he went out
to the range and returned with a sleek, fat black horse
that did not seem to resemble in any way the one I had
left there, except in color. At first I could not believe
it to be the same animal, but I accepted his word, and
after settling for its keeping, I rode it away. It was a
very handsome horse. As Mr. Carlton also owned a
horse we rode down the valley on horse back to Sacra
mento City, where we left our horses and took a steamer
for San Francisco.

180 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
At that time there were as many as three quite large
steamers constantly running between Sacramento and
San Francisco. One company was running the "Sena
tor" and "New World," both of which I believe formerly
were run between Boston and Bangor, and had been
taken around Cape Horn to San Francisco. The other
was the Hartford, a slower and older boat. The fare
I don't remember, but it was not so much on the Hart
ford as on either of the other two boats. We took
passage on the Hartford.
This was near the time that the excitement in regard
to the Vigilance Committee was at its height. Several
persons had been tried and executed in San Francisco,
and considerable excitement existed there. The civil law
had taken the place of lynch law, and had been in opera
tion several months.
Murders, robberies and other crimes were of almost
every-day occurrence. The courts had failed in most
cases to make convictions, and the criminals, especially
in such cases where they possessed a considerable amount
of wealth, went free and unpunished. Life or property
had become very unsafe almost anywhere. The Vigilance
Committee soon caused a far different and a much better
state of affairs. Many were the cases in which the
evidence against the prisoner would seem conclusive, but
the verdict would be "not guilty." The prisoner would
be immediately seized, taken to the rooms of the com
mittee and there tried and convicted and executed, and
all within the space of a short time after he had been
cleared by the court.

MINING ON THE YUBA RIVER 181
Several such cases took place while we remained in
San Francisco, which was several days.
We went out to the old Mission Dolores, and to what
has been later called Seal Rocks. We continued our
journey down the valley and made some investigation
in regard to lands for farming purposes. We learned
that all those lands were claimed under old Spanish or
Mexican grants, which at that time had not been settled
or adjusted by the United States government, conse-
quenty we abandoned the scheme of farming and re
turned to Marysville.
We soon after parted and I have no remembrance of
ever meeting Mr. Carlton after that time. He never
returned to his home in New Hampshire, but died in
California a few years later.

CHAPTER X.
WITH COMPASS AND CHAIN IN OREGON
I had occasionally met Mr. Elder, and about this time
he informed me that a surveyor general had been ap
pointed for the territory of Oregon; that he was a man
from Illinois, with whom he was well acquainted, and
that he would probably be at San Francisco on his way
to Oregon in a few weeks.
It was his intention to meet the official in San Fran
cisco, expecting to make arrangements to go to Oregon
and do some work on the government surveys. He also
said to me that if he should do so, he would like to have
me go with him. I did not decide at that time to go.
About that time I met Mr. Pinney in Marysville. I
believe he had been cutting wood at Yuba City for some
time previous. During the late summer or autumn pre
vious he was employed with others at some place on or
near Nelson's Creek, where they had struck a good claim
and had taken out quite an amount of gold. I never
learned the exact amount, but supposed it to be from
$4,000 to $5,000 for his share. Some time while chop
ping he had boarded at Yuba City with a Rev. Mr.
George H. Hanson.
Mr. Hanson and a Mr. Bayliss, who kept a hotel at
Yuba City, owned the ferry across Feather River at that
place. Pinney informed me that Mr. Hanson desired to
182

WITH COMPASS AND CHAIN IN OREGON 183
let him the contract to excavate a road from the boat
landing on either side of the river up through the banks
so as to permit of teams passing to better advantage. If
I would contract with him for doing the work, he
thought we might do well.
We looked the situation over and found the cut on the
Yuba City side would be light, but that on the Marys
ville side was quite deep. I suggested to Mr. Pinney
that the better plan would be that Mr. Hanson should set
his stakes so that we could know just what would be
expected from us to complete the work. Mr. Hanson
proposed that the road should be at a true grade from
the shore to a certain point, about 150 feet distant, and
should be of sufficient width to permit the passage of
two teams when meeting, the banks to be properly sloped.
After considerable discussion relative to the depth of
the cut, which I claimed would be twelve feet, he replied
that he knew it could not be more than nine feet deep,
and made the following expression in his western dialect :
"You needn't for to dig it more than nine feet anyhow."
We made the contract to do the work with the under
standing that we would not be required to excavate over
nine feet in the deepest place, but it was not written out.
We bought some shovels and the next day we commenced
the work. The material to be removed was all fine sand
and was good shoveling. We began at the waters edge and
threw it into the river and it was washed away by the
current. We made the sand fly fast and we made a large
showing on the first day.
After we had worked away from the river so that we

184 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
could no longer throw the sand into the water, we used
wheelbarrows. This was a very much slower process.
We made the cut nine feet deep at the deepest point
and finished it in width so that two teams could easily
pass each other, but Mr. Hanson then claimed that it
must be on a true grade. This would at least add one-
third to the amount of work. But as we had no written
contract, we concluded that the better way out of it was
to make the cut as he proposed.
Another matter that came into controversy later was
about the width. At the time the contract was made,
when Mr. Hanson said the cut must be of sufficient width
for two teams to pass, I made the remark that that was
very indefinite, and made the request that he should give
the number of feet required at the bottom of the cut, and
he did so.
About this time Mr. Pinney received a letter from
Pelham, N. H., which I suppose was from a Miss Young,
with whom he had formerly been somewhat intimate, and
whom he married later. This letter seemed to have such
an effect upon him that he lost all interest in the work,
and a few days later proposed to me that I should pay
him for his share of the work completed. He said he
had concluded to start for home at once. I pleaded in
vain that he should remain until our contract was
finished. I paid him for his interest and he started for San
Francisco. We supposed the contract to be nearly fin
ished. I had met Mr. Elder and he informed me that
he had met the surveyor-general of Oregon, John B.
Preston of Illinois, in San Francisco. Mr. Preston was

WITH COMPASS AND CHAIN IN OREGON 185
not the first man appointed, the other having declined
to accept the office.
Mr. Elder had been employed as assistant engineer on
the Michigan and Illinois canal in Illinois by the new
surveyor-general. He said Mr. Preston had promised
him work on the government survey. He intended to go
to Oregon a little later and desired me to go with him.
I agreed to go.
I continued to work on the job and at length finished
it, as I supposed. I had made the cut a true grade from
the river to the point agreed upon, which made it 13 feet
deep at the deepest point. The width was the number
of feet stated by Mr. Hanson, but it was not quite wide
enough to permit of two teams passing each other.
I had also finished the cut on the Yuba City side as
was agreed upon, and I supposed that Mr. Hanson would
be willing to accept the work and pay the amount agreed
upon. I informed him that the contract was completed
and requested him to examine it.
We went to the Marysville side, and after measuring
the bottom of the deep cut Mr. Hanson said it was not
sufficiently wide to permit two teams passing each other.
I reminded him of the conversation in relation to the
matter when the number of feet was given by him, but
he could recollect nothing in relation to that matter. He
insisted that it must be made considerably wider before
it would be accepted. After having done about one-third
more work than we really had contracted to do, to be
required to make the cut two or three feet wider, when it
was 150 feet long and 13 feet deep at the deepest point,
seemed to me to be asking too much. But I found him

186 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
determined not to pay for the work unless I yielded. I
concluded to keep quiet and make the widening as he
proposed. I made the alteration as he had suggested and again
I informed him that the contract was completed. Again
he went with me to the place of the cut, and also Mr.
Bayliss was with us.
Mr. Hanson began to measure and also to find fault
with the work, claiming that the job was not nearly
completed. He said he would not pay me until con
siderable more was done.
I could endure it no longer, and I said to Mr. Hanson
that he was the meanest man I had had any dealings
with in California. Thereupon, he became almost frantic,
and he immediately drew the square over my head. It
was a heavy carpenter's steel square. He exclaimed that
if I uttered another word he would split my head openl
I immediately repeated the remark. Of course, it was
not my intention to stand there quietly and permit him
to cleave my head open, as he had threatened to do. But
I stood still nevertheless, intending, if he attempted to
strike me, to pursue the course that might seem to be
best under the existing conditions. He threw down the
weapon and said he would never pay me a dollar for
the work until I had done a large amount more to finish
it. Determined not to yield now, I replied I had already
removed about twice the amount of earth the contract
called for at first ; that he had continually lied about it ;
that no dependence whatever could be placed on his word
or veracity; that he was a very unjust specimen of a

WITH COMPASS AND CHAIN IN OREGON 187
man; and that I would never remove another shovelful
of earth for him.
He went away saying he would never pay me a cent.
I was as fully determined I would do no more work on
the job under any conditions. At first I thought I would
sue him for the amount due me. After considering the
matter for a day or two I concluded I would see what
could be done with Mr. Bayliss, his partner, about the
matter. I had been acquainted with him for a number
of months, and had considered him an honest man. He
had no part in making the contract so far as I was con
cerned. I went to him one day and informed him that
I was about to go to Oregon and that I should like to
settle the matter. As he was a partner with Mr. Hanson
in the ferry, and I had always believed him to be a rea
sonable man, I had come to him to talk about the matter.
Mr. Bayliss listened to my statements very kindly, but
said he regretted the conversation that had taken place
between Mr. Hanson and myself. If that had been
otherwise he thought the matter might have been ad
justed with little trouble, but Mr. Hanson was a very
passionate man, and as he was then feeling toward me,
he would not agree to any settlement that would be sat
isfactory to me. He said it would be of no use whatever
to undertake to have Mr. Hanson agree to pay the full
amount of the contract price, but provided I would con
sent to make a small discount he would see what ar
rangement could be made with him. When I again met
Mr. Bayliss a little later, the proposed settlement had
been agreed upon and he paid me accordingly.

188 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
I soon after left Marysville for San Francisco, on my
way to Oregon. At San Francisco I met Mr. Elder and
also Mr. Pinney, who had been waiting here all this time
for the sailing of the steamer for Panama. He expected
now to sail within two or three days. He might as well
have remained and assisted me finishing the contract.
Mr. Pinney had brought his gold with him. It had
been put up in several buckskin bags. After his arrival
in San Francisco, instead of depositing it in one of the
banks for safe keeping during his stay in the city, he had
buried it in the sands of one of the vacant lots of the
city. When he went to recover it he failed to find it, when
he became thoroughly alarmed. After a more thorough
search, however, he found it. He said it had been re
moved from the place where he first deposited it and had
been buried in another place. It was in vain I tried to
make him believe that if anybody had taken the gold
from its hiding place he would have carried it away, in
stead of concealing it in a new place, and he would never
have got his hands on it again. While he admitted the
force of the argument, he said he was perfectly sure that
he found it in a different location from where he placed
it. He said he was very nervous when he failed to find
his fortune where he had buried it.
Almost any one would be nervous under similar condi
tions. However, it was always my opinion that he found
it at the exact spot where he had placed it, but that he
had mistaken the locality. Probably Mr. Pinney's deposit
of gold did not weigh less than from twenty to twenty-

WITH COMPASS AND CHAIN IN OREGON 189
five pounds, which would make an awkward pocket com
panion. I had been in California two winters and one summer,
or a little over nineteen months. As a whole I had en
joyed my experiences quite well.
We remained in San Francisco a few days, waiting for
the sailing of the steamer for Portland, Oregon, and left
on Wednesday, June 4, 185 1, in the Pacific mail steam-
After we had passed out through the Golden Gate into
the Pacific ocean, the sea became quite rough, but as I
had never been on the ocean before, I did not realize
it was any rougher than usual. Nearly all the passengers
were seasick. I thought I should escape, but in the even
ing I also became a victim. The seasickness stood by
me for two or three days, and was the only time, with
one exception, I was ever afflicted that way.
We passed over the bar at the mouth of the Columbia
river on Sunday, June 8th, and arrived at Portland,
Oregon, on Monday the 9th, where we remained over
night. On Tuesday, June 10th, we passed up the River
Willamette, about twelve miles, to Oregon City, in a
small, open iron steamer, that probably might safely
carry 15 or 20 passengers.
At the time we arrived in Oregon the surveys had been
commenced by two parties. The meridian and base lines
had to be established and run for greater or lesser dis
tances before any other surveys could be made.
The surveyor-general had taken with him from the
states several experienced surveyors and quite a number
of other persons to engage in the surveys. A point near

190 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
Portland was selected from which to the commence the
meridian and base lines. Mr. James E. Freeman, a man
who had been a deputy surveyor in Wisconsin, had been
awarded the contract to run the meridian line south from
Portland, and William Ives, another experienced gov
ernment surveyor, had taken the contract to extend the
meridian line north from the same point to Puget Sound.
These parties were engaged at running the meridian line
at the time of our arrival in Oregon, and had all the
assistance needed, so there was no prospect for any
work on the surveys for me for an indefinite time.
I had been studying surveying when an opportunity
presented itself, but knew practically nothing of the gov
ernment system of public surveys. There seemed to be
but little work to be had at Oregon City, and board was
quite high.
Mr. Elder was engaged by the surveyor-general as
chief clerk in the surveyor-general's office. I was a
stranger to the surveyor-general and all his deputies that
he brought with him, and I knew that he would provide
places for all his own party before a stranger like myself
would receive any attention. Yet, I knew Mr. Elder was
a good friend to me, but as he was engaged in the office,
the prospect seemed to be that he would have no contract,
consequently could give me no assistance that was most
needed by me. It seemed to me that I had made a mis
take in leaving California, and I thought seriously of
returning. But through Mr. Elder's encouragement I
was induced to remain.
We boarded at a hotel which was one of two kept in
Oregon City, where board was six dollars a week, or

WITH COMPASS AND CHAIN IN OREGON 191
one dollar and fifty cents per day. One little incident
that transpired while at this hotel I will relate to show
how sometimes people injure themselves in being too
sharp in small affairs. At the time I came to this hotel
it was quite uncertain what length of time I should re
main. So I had an understanding with the landlord that
if my stay should be a week or more, the price would be
by the week, but should it be less than a week, I should
pay the price by the day.
After remaining for about three days, I concluded to
leave for a time, and as it was uncertain when I should
return, I settled my board bill, paying the day price. It
so happened that I returned on the evening of the same
day, and occupied my room as before. I then remained
during the remainder of the week and some days over.
When I came to settle my board with the landlord he
presented a bill made up by the day price for the time
after I had paid him.
I claimed the agreement was, if I remained for a whole
week, or seven days or more, that the price should be
by the week, and that the fact that I settled with him
and made a payment at the middle of the week did not
change the matter, so far as right and justice was con
cerned. At the time of the former settlement I paid him
a part of a week's board, and that now I was to pay him
the balance. But he failed to see the matter in that light,
and claimed the day price.
Consequently, I paid him on his basis by the day, but
I left him to board at the other hotel, "Mosses," where
I ever after stayed when in Oregon City.

192 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
Soon after arriving in Oregon I went south up the
Willemette valley among the farmers, thinking possibly I
would find some work for a time, but as I found no em
ployment, I returned to Oregon City after a few days.
Some one informed me that a mill was being erected
on the Tualitan River, a few miles from Oregon City,
and that the owner of the mill needed some more help.
I went to the location where the mill was being built
and engaged to work for three dollars a day and board
for a short time. I commenced work on Monday, June
30th. The labor was very hard, it being on a dam across
the stream, which was being constructed of stone, brush
and gravel. All of this material had to carried by hand.
I labored on the dam for twelve days, when it was
nearly completed, and the proprietor, Mr. Madden, dis
charged a considerable part of his help. He had other
work to be done in building the sawmill and its founda
tions, etc. He said to me he should pay his laborers only
two dollars per day after that date, but that if I would
remain he would pay me two dollars and fifty cents. I
continued on the job until the 3d day of August.
About this time Mr. Elder one day came over to see
me and informed me that he had contracted with the gov
ernment to resurvey Oregon City and desired me to
assist him in the work. At that time he had very little
work in the office, as none of the surveys had been com
pleted. I went to Oregon City, but it was some time
before he was prepared to commence the job of resur-
veying the town. In the meantime I was pursuing the
study of surveying in earnest.

assiimccmms.

MINERS STARTING FOR HOME.

WITH COMPASS AND CHAIN IN OREGON 193
We commenced the survey on Thursday, August 21st,
and completed it on September 29th, making an entirely
new survey and setting the bounds, which was authorized
and approved by the United States government.
While at work on the Tualitan River, the last part of
my work there had been on the river, clearing it from
sunken timbers and obstructions, so as to permit logs
being floated down to the mill.
During the time that I was engaged on the Oregon
City survey for Mr. Elder, the contracts had been let
to survey township lines, one to Butler Ives, a brother of
William Ives, dated August 15; one to William Ives,
dated September 10; and one to James E. Freeman,
dated September 17. These contracts provided for the
surveying of the exterior lines of twenty townships,
within the most thickly settled part of the Willamette
valley, and principally south of Oregon City, reaching as
far south as Township No. 10, or near to Albany on
the Willamette River.
Mr. Elder made arrangements with Mr. Freeman,
when the work at Oregon City should be completed for
me to go out and work for him. Mr. Freeman's contract
included some of the Willamette and Santiam Rivers,
and extended southerly so as to include townships 6, 7,
8, 9 and 10 south of range 1 west, and townships 9 and
10 south of ranges 2, 3 and 4 west, with a part of the
2d standard parallel south. This work was from 30 to
50 miles south of Oregon City.
After the Oregon City work had been completed, I
left the place and traveled on foot and alone southerly to
the point where Mr. Freeman's party was at work, and

194 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
found them without trouble. Mr. Freeman had five or
six men in his party, a part of whose names I yet recall.
Zenas F. Moody from Chicopee, Mass., who went to
Oregon at or about the same time as the surveyor-gen
eral. He was young, only 20 years of age. He after
wards became governor of Oregon for four years. An
other was George W. Hyde, a brother-in-law of Mr.
Preston, the surveyor-general; and another was Allen F.
Seymour, of New York state, all of whom went to
Oregon with the party of Mr. Preston, and had worked
with Mr. Freeman on the meridian line. Mr. Moody
and Mr. Seymour were chainmen.
All the government public land surveys were required
to be made with Burt's patent solar compass. This was
an instrument that was guided by the sun instead of the
magnetic needle, and was of far greater accuracy. It
was provided with a needle that could be used when it
was impossible, from any cause, to make use of the sun.
The township lines were all required to be surveyed
by the sun, but subdivisions were permitted to be made
in part by the needle, at such places where local attrac
tion did not exist to great extent. At this time I knew
nothing whatever in regard to the working of the solar
compass. I had never even seen the instrument. It is
very reliable, but is provided with several arcs, which
must be constantly adjusted ; the most important of these
are the latitude arc and the declination arc. The exact
latitude, even to one minute of a degree, of the place of
work, must be set off on the latitude arc, and the declina
tion of the sun, north or south, must be set off on the
declination arc, also to the exact minute for the month,

WITH COMPASS AND CHAIN IN OREGON 195
day and hour, otherwise the instrument would not give
the true meridian of the sun.
The next morning after I came into camp Mr. Free
man told me to take the axe for that day. He also
told me to blaze the trees that stood on each side and
near to the line as run by the compassman where there
were trees, and to prepare posts for the section and
quarter-section corners. I have a distinct recollection of
feeling considerably embarrassed, as I did not fully
comprehend all the duties I was expected to perform. It
was all new to me.
The line was started and the first tree that needed to
be marked was blazed on the proper side, but I made it
quite low down. I went along the line a short distance
and turned about, facing the tree I had marked. It at
once occurred to me that the purpose of blazing those
trees was for a guide by which to follow the lines, and
that marks should be made sufficiently high so as to be
readily seen at a distance, and that afterwards I would
make the marks higher up on the trees.
While I stood looking at the marked tree, Mr. Free
man said : "Make the marks a little higher on the trees."
Mr. Hyde gave me some instructions as to what the cor
ner posts should be, and how they should be prepared,
and I soon became familiar with the duties of an "axe
man." I continued to perform these duties for several
weeks, until one day Mr. Freeman said to me that per
haps I might thing it strange he kept me as axeman so
long. He had not at first intended to do so, but they
had tried two or three before I came and could not make

196 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
them understand the work. As I had done it so well
he had hesitated about making a change.
This was the first time that I had known if I had given
even ordinary satisfaction. I said to him that I was
satisfied, that I had enjoyed the work, and that I felt
greatly pleased if I had given satisfaction.
Mr. Freeman was not an expert mathematician, and as
I had studied trigonometry pretty thoroughly, I could cal
culate distances very readily by logarithmic sines. There
were many triangulations to make and distances to cal
culate across rivers and bayous. When I first began
work for Mr. Freeman, he requested that I would make
the calculations of the distances with him. He would
work them by the traverse table, and I by logarithmic
sines. Sometimes we would agree in our results, but
very often we would obtain different results, and in such
cases we would each go over the work again. In almost
every such instance the error was found in his work.
After a time he gave up making all such calculations
and trusted it wholly to me, unless they were of a very
simple character.
Mr. Hyde left the party soon after I began work for
Mr. Freeman. He assisted him in making the calcula
tions before I came. It was very important that the
work of the calculations of these triangulations and dis
tances should be done correctly, as a small error was
liable to cause much trouble later, and sometimes might
cost hundreds of dollars to correct.
We continued the work, but in November, previous to
the finishing of the contract, the rainy season began and

WITH COMPASS AND CHAIN IN OREGON 197
there was much rainy and cloudy weather, so the survey
was continued under considerable difficulty.
About November 20 Mr. Freeman concluded to go to
Oregon City. The contract was not completed, but with
favorable weather it could be finished in a short time.
Mr. Freeman went to the surveyor-general's office at
Oregon City to return the field notes of the surveys he
had completed, and to get a contract for sub-divisions.
The camp was broken up and he discharged all his
help, excepting Mr. Moody and myself. He authorized
us to remain and await his return, and to board with a
family, and see to the pack horses. In case it should
become fair weather previous to his return, so the solar
apparatus could be used to advantage. I could try to
survey a new township line. I had not at that time
undertaken to make any surveys with the solar compass,
though I had been learning by observation about its
workings. The first week after Mr. Freeman's departure the
weather continued cloudy or rainy the greater part of the
time, and we could do no work on the township line, but
one of the settlers desired me to make a survey of his
claim, which was one mile square. This could be done
by the needle. The lines were to be made to conform
to the cardinal points, due north, south, east and west,
but otherwise were not required to conform to the public
surveys. I agreed to survey it for him, and after the
starting corner was pointed out, we began the work.
This was my first experience in surveying any lengthy
line, my experience having been on city lots. We were
to survey around one square mile, making four equal

198 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
side, each one mile in length. Of course, I felt some
nervousness about the closing. Should errors be made
they would show at this point. About one-half of the
land was in the prairie, and the balance in timber land.
I managed the compass, and Mr. Moody, with another
man, were chainmen. The man for whom we were mak
ing the survey remarked that he supposed I had had a
good deal of experience in that kind of work. I did not
inform him that I was then engaged in making my
maiden survey. When we had surveyed three sides of
the quadrangle, and were running toward the starting
point on the fourth, or last side, the owner began to
predict about where we would come out in relation to
the point of beginning.
He declared there would be quite a wide distance from
the point of beginning. This, as was natural, caused me
to be more nervous. However, I made no reply, and
when the survey was completed, it proved to be a very
satisfactory close. This gave me more confidence, and
as another man near by desired a similar survey made,
we made that with equal satisfaction.
About the second week of Mr. Freeman's absence the
weather cleared up and the sun shone, and Mr. Moody
and myself started the survey of the township line. I
was compassman, as before, and assisted him in mak
ing the measurements with the chain. This was an east
and west line, six miles long, and was run as a "random
line," as they were called. All east and west lines were
random lines, as at first surveyed, and were afterwards
corrected according to the amount of error found in
closing. Later I surveyed many township lines, but I

WITH COMPASS AND CHAIN IN OREGON 199
believe that was the most difficult one I ever surveyed.
Soon after we commenced it we ran into the Santiam
bottom and river, and the line followed the stream,
crossing and recrossing almost the entire distance. The
impassible parts of this line of six miles, which was
measured by us by triangulations and offsets, amounted
to very nearly, if not quite, one-half of its entire length.
It was a tedious and discouraging task for a beginner.
But we worked upon it steadily, when the sun favored us,
and at the end of nearly a week we reached the town cor
ner. I had run a due west line, and at the end fell
farther from the corner than I had expected. Con
sequently, I did not feel fully satisfied with the outcome
of my work.
We did not correct the line, however, as I supposed
Mr. Freeman would make a new survey when he should
return. In fact, we had no time to correct the line, as
Mr. Freeman returned after an absence of about two
weeks. I explained to him what we had accomplished
during his absence, and how the township line had closed.
After he had made an examination of his field notes
of the closing six miles farther north, he said it was
really the best close that had been made on that contract,
it having closed with less variation, as compared with
the parellel line six miles north of it. We soon after
finished the contract.
While at Oregon City Mr. Freeman took the contract
to subdivide townships 9 and 10 S. range, 1 west; 8 and 9
S. range 2 W. and 9 S. range 3 W., it being a part of
the townships of which we had surveyed the exterior
lines. This contract was dated November 28, 1851.

200 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
After we had finished the first contract we began the
subdivision. There were 60 miles of surveys of sub
divisions in each township. At first I acted as one of
the chainmen with Mr. Moody, and Mr. Freeman was
compassman. Soon after we had started, however, Mr.
Freeman asked me to relieve him so as to give him time
to write up his field notes. The result was before we
were half done I was compassman substantially all the
time, and so continued until the contract was completed.
The winter of 1851-52 was quite a rainy one in
Oregon, and some time during the rainy season Mr.
Freeman concluded to dispense with the camp and de
pend upon the settlers for accommodations. Nearly all
the settlers held their claims under the Donation Law,
so called, passed by Congress September 27, 1850.
These claims principally consisted of 640 acres, equal
to one square mile of land, which, when taking account
of the lands unsettled, caused the residences to be at a
considerable distance from each other, generally from
one-half mile to three miles.
In some respects this arrangement of seeking accom
modations with the settlers was satisfactory, and in other
respects it was not: In many instances, after our work
for the day had been completed, when we were wet and
hungry, we were obliged to travel from two to four
miles before reaching a house. The houses there at that
time were log cabins, the great majority of which con
tained but one room, with perhaps a small "loft."
So, many times when we reached the first house after
a long walk, and made the inquiry if we could be ac
commodated with supper, lodging and breakfast, or in

WITH COMPASS AND CHAIN IN OREGON 201
western language: "If we could get to stay over night?"
the reply almost invariably would be: "We have no
accommodations to keep folks." At the next house we
probably could "get to stay," as they "kept folks." The
estimate of the distance to the next house was almost
invariably given at not more than one-half of the actual
distance. When we at length arrived at the next house
a similar story, in most cases, would be told, so that on
some occasion we traveled until quite late in the even
ing before we could succeed in finding lodging for the
night. The next morning we were obliged to retrace the
same road to reach the place where we had quit work
the evening previous. These people, however, were very
hospitable and could not be censured with justice. A
majority of them were immigrants from Missouri and
other western states, and many of them had lived on the
frontier during their whole lives.
In many cases where we stopped for the night, the
cabin contained one room only, of a fair size, say 15
by 20 feet, and the family would consist of man and
wife, and from five to ten children, in some instances
including two or three girls nearly women grown. Of
course, families so situated could not be expected to
have accommodations for three or four tired, hungry
men. However, in many cases we would prevail upon
them to consent to keep us, and they would do the very
best that they were able to do under the existing con
ditions. They would divide their bed, putting the feather bed
on the floor for the use of their guests. This was done
for us in many instances. After managing in this way

202 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
for a time, and becoming familiar with the ways and
manners of the people, I knew much better how to man
age the matter of getting kept over night. I learned that
if we should assume a simple "No" with excuses, more
or less elaborate, was to be taken as a final refusal, that
we would find very few places of accommodations.
Later I made it a point to get into the inside of the
house before the request was made for accommodations
for the night. I would not even await an invitation to
step inside, but no sooner than the door was open I
would at once enter, if possible, without being conspic
uously ungentlemanly. Sometimes I would inquire for
a drink of water and gain admission thereby. Once in
side I found the battle more than half won. We could
then almost always induce the good people to keep us.
The surveying of the public lands may be thought by
many to be light, easy work, but it is really hard and
rough. The surveyors are subjected to much exposure,
especially in the winter or rainy season.
The winters in Oregon, as in California, are called
"rainy seasons." There is much rainy weather and some
snow, but the snows are usually damp and soon melt
away in the valleys. The weather is seldom very cold,
but is sometimes cold enough to cause thin ice to form
on the surface of standing water.
During the rainy season in Oregon the small streams
were full and all the sloughs and swampy places were
at times overflowed with water. At that time ferries had
been established across some of the larger streams at
certain points. The smaller streams had to be forded.

WITH COMPASS AND CHAIN IN OREGON 203
We had very much wading to do in crossing streams,
sloughs and swamps, quite often having to wade places
where the water was not less than three or four feet
deep. The water was necessarily cold, but after a few
days of experience we would become accustomed to it,
so we would not mind it very much. When a pair of
new boots were purchased, before they were worn, a
slit would be made in each one, near the sole, at the
inside of the instep to give drainage for the water to
pass out. We had a great amount of similar wading
to do on this contract.
I will relate only one from many experiences which
came my way during the fall of 1851. When Mr. Free
man was surveying the meridian line; he had a transit
with his party, to make triangulations to distant moun
tain peaks and other topograpical objects that might
come within range on either side.
This transit, from a fall or some other accident, be
came injured, so it became entirely useless for the pur
pose of making triangulations, and it was left by Mr.
Freeman at a farmhouse. Previous to his visit to
Oregon City in November, he concluded to take the
transit along with him to the surveyor-general's office.
One morning he desired me to go for the instrument
and bring it to camp. He gave me the name of the man
where it had been left, and the location of the house was
pointed out on the plan. As I remember, the location
was about twelve or fourteen miles distant.
Our camp was to be removed on that day, so that on
my return it would be necessary for me to pursue a dif
ferent course from the one in going. I started and found

204 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
the house without difficulty, and after partaking of some
dinner and settling all bills due the proprietor, I started
in the direction of which I expected to find our camp.
In my journey to the house I found a comparatively dry
road, and was not obliged to go through any deep water.
It was considerably into the afternoon when I started
on the home journey and I did not suppose I would be
able to reach camp that evening, but concluded to take the
chances of finding a house where I could remain over
night. After traveling two or three miles I reached a
stream of considerable depth, which I waded, coming out
pretty thoroughly soaked. A short distance farther on
I entered a large prairie. The weather was cloudy, but
it did not rain very much. I kept on and was able to
pursue the proper course by the help of the instrument,
until it became dark, when a dense fog settled down upon
the plain. I could see only a short distance and was not
able to see to read the bearing of the needle of the
transit. I had no other guide to direct my course except
a very slight movement of the atmosphere, which was
scarcely perceptible.
However, I kept the course as well as I was able to
do, thinking the most probable outcome would be that
I would be obliged to remain on the prairie until the
next morning.
Some time between eight and nine o'clock in the even
ing, I heard the low of a cow at my left, at about a
right angle with the course I was then traveling. I im
mediately shaped my course toward the point from
which the sound came, supposing there would be a farm-

WITH COMPASS AND CHAIN IN OREGON 205
house iii that vicinity. I soon came upon a little trail or
road, which I followed, but I had not gone a great dis
tance before I came to a slough, at that time filled with
water. As the weather had been quite cool, the water
was frozen over to the thickness of half an inch. I
waded into the water where the trail entered it, and
broke my way through the ice. Before I reached the
opposite side, I found the water nearly four feet deep,
and it was no easy task to break the ice so as to make
my way through.
After a time I reached the opposite side and soon after
saw a dim light through the fog. I went in the direction
of the light and soon reached a house, where the in
mates had retired for the night. I found the people to
be very hospitable. The good lady of the house arose
and prepared a supper for me, and during the night
dried my wet clothing before the fire. The next morn
ing I traveled to camp.
We completed the contract about the first of March
and immediately after went to Oregon City. The pay at
this time for chainmen, axemen and campmen on the sur
veys was about two dollars a day. Mr. Freeman paid
me a larger compensation, but I do not remember the
price. After our arrival at Oregon City, Mr. Elder said
to me that he had resigned his position as chief clerk at
the office of the surveyor-general, and should go on the
field work. He was to have a contract, and desired me
to work in his employ. I agreed to do so.
He received a contract dated March 25, 1852. This
contract was for the survey of the exterior lines of town
ships I, 2, 3, 4 and 5 south, of range 3 and 4 west, with

206 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
a part of the first standard parallel south. This amounted
to about 120 miles of surveys at $17 a mile.
This contract was principally in the Yamhill valley,
westerly and southwesterly from Oregon City. The
work was all within 25 miles of the surveyor-general's
office. Mr. Elder had procured me a solar compass, for which
I paid him $350.
We began the contract about the first of April and
finished it near the end of May. I was compassman on
substantially all the lines of the contract, while Mr. Elder
wrote the field notes and made the plats.
I received a commission as a United States deputy
surveyor, April 25, 1852, from John B. Preston, sur
veyor-general of Oregon.
As soon as the contract was completed we went to
Oregon City, and Mr. Elder proposed that my name
should be associated with his in a contract for subdi
visions, so as to be able to obtain a contract of ten town
ships, instead of five, the number usually awarded to
one deputy in a single contract.
I was to work for him and have charge of one party,
while he would have charge of a second party. I agreed
to this. The contract to Elder & Webster was dated
June 8, 1852, and was for the subdivisions of townships
3 and 5 south range, 2 west; 1, 3, 4 and 5 south range,
3 west ; and 2, 3, 4 and 5 south range, 4 west. This in
cluded all the townships, with two exceptions, of which
we hade made the surveys of the exterior lines, and in
cluded two townships in range 2 which had been sur
veyed by Deputy William Ives. The number of miles

WITH COMPASS AND CHAIN IN OREGON 207
contained in the contract to be surveyed was estimated
at 660. The subdivisions, or interior lines of a township,
amount to about 60 miles, provided there are no streams
or lakes to be measured. All stream considered navigable
are measured on both sides.
In this contract were portions of the Willamette and
the Yamhill Rivers, which were measured.
We left Oregon City on or about June 9th. We made
up two parties. Mr. Elder managed one party and I the
other. In my party were Henry S. Gile, from Alfred,
Maine, a very intelligent man, who acted as one of my
chainmen ; James M. Fudge from Sangamon county,
Illinois, also a very fine young man (he was killed by
the explosion of a steamboat boiler a short distance above
the falls at Oregon City, in the spring of 1854) ; Andrew
Murphy, an intelligent Irish-American citizen from St.
Louis, Mo. ; and James O'Connor, as compassman. The
last named was an inhabitant of Oregon, a young man.
At this time I do not remember the names of Mr. Elder's
party with the exception of Matthew Murphy, a brother
to Andrew, and who assisted Mr. Elder in the manage
ment of the compass before the contract was completed.
We had good working forces on this contract and
consequently had a very pleasant time. I made consid
erably more than half of the surveys with my party.
We were engaged on this contract about four months,
or until about the 8th of October, when we went to
Oregon City and made up our field notes and plats, and
returned them to the surveyor-general's office. Mr. Elder
paid me something more than $100 a month for my
work.

208 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
My health had continued good all through the sum
mer, until just previous to the time of finishing of the
contract, when I was taken ill but managed to lead my
party and do my work until the survey was completed.
After we went to Oregon City I did not improve. I
procured some medicine once or twice from an English
physician. Mr. Elder said I was afflicted with a fever of
some kind, and I thought later that probably he was
right. Be that as it may, I was quite sick for three or
four weeks, although I was out more or less every day
during the whole time. Finally, I began to improve, and
about the first of December I had nearly recovered my
usual good health.
Up to this time I had had no contract on my own
account, but it was understood that I should receive a
contract of subdivisions for winter. This was under
President Filmore's administration and of course Mr.
Preston, the surveyor-general was a Whig, politically, as
was Mr. Elder.
One day when I was in the surveyor-general's office,
Mr. Preston called me into his private office and inquired
in regard to my politics. This surprised me as I had
supposed he knew, and I could not help wondering how
much bearing my reply would have in awarding me a
contract. I immediately said I was a Democrat, and
asked if that would make any difference about awarding
me a contract.
He said it would not with him, but with surveyor-gen
erals generally a distinction was made, and contracts
were only awarded to deputies of their own political
faith.

SEAL OF CALIFORNIA IN ITS EARLIER DAYS.

WITH COMPASS AND CHAIN IN OREGON 209
Mr. Preston was a fine man, and had always been
very kind to me. I never knew the object of his making
the inquiry, but I afterwards supposed he did it to test
my honesty, and to see if I would equivocate in any way
in relation to my political principles. If I had pursued
such a course it is possible I might not have fared as well
as I did. He said that a majority of his deputies were
Democrats. Mr. Freeman, William Ives, and his
brother, Butler Ives, and Joseph Hunt were all of that
party. He awarded me a contract, No. 27, dated December 1,
1852, for the subdivisions of township No. 14 south,
ranges 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 west, estimated at 315 miles, at
$10 per mile.
I made up my party and left Oregon -City about a
week later, going up the River Willamette on a steamer
to Salem, where I had arranged to have the "pack
horses" meet us, and where we camped near the river.
A storm began soon after we arrived at Salem, and it
continued for two or three days, so it was impracticable
to attempt to move up the valley until the rain should
cease. Our work was about 50 miles southerly from
Salem. After three or four days the weather became fair and
pleasant, and we packed up our camp and moved
southerly up the valley of the Willamette.
The river, with all the streams, was very much swollen
from the recent rains, and we were obliged to do con
siderable wading, some of which was quite deep. As I
had but a short time previously recovered from quite a

210 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
severe illness, and had not been so exposed for several
weeks, I took cold.
I felt the cold quite severely on the first night out
from Salem. On the second evening I had, as I believe,
as severe a cold as I ever experienced in my whole life.
After the other men had turned in for the night I in
quired if any one of them had anything that would cure
a cold. One of them replied that he had some cayenne
pepper in his valise and told me where I could find it, and
he told me that a teaspoonful in hot water was a proper
dose. After heating some water I put in a tablespoon ful
of the cayenne, stirred it thoroughly, and drank dregs
and all. I am now convinced it was the warmest dose
I ever drank, but I immediately laid down for the night,
and when I arose the next morning, my cold had nearly
disappeared. It troubled me very little afterward. This,
I believe, was the only serious cold I experienced while in
Oregon. We were about three days in making the trip from
Salem and we began work December 17, in township No.
14 south, range 3, west. The Willamette River ran
through township 14, range 4 and 5, west. The Calla-
pooza, a small river, also passed through some of the
townships. There was much rainy weather through the last part
of December, and also during January, 1853, all the
streams and swales being full of water.
I don't recollect the names of the men who made up
my party, with the exception of one, whose name was
McDonald. Whenever we got into a hard place, he was
always complaining, and would say that he should quit

WITH COMPASS AND CHAIN IN OREGON 211
work. He was not the sort of a man I desired, but 1
did not wish to have him leave, as he had a sympathizer
in the party who would be pretty sure to leave if he did,
and that would break up my gang. It would probably
trouble me to supply their places at that time.
We finished one township on January 3, and com
menced upon the one next west in range 4. The
Willamette River intersected the western boundary of
this township, which it crossed four times, and also
crossed its south boundary. We had completed about
two-thirds of the easterly part of this township when one
day it became necessary to cross the Willamette River
and bring out a line before we could make any farther
progress. I made some inquiries of some of the settlers in rela
tion to a boat, and learned of a man nearby who owned
a "dugout," but upon seeing him he declared it would
be impossible to cross the river in its swollen condition.
We went to the river where the boat was located and the
situation for crossing did really look to be somewhat
dangerous to be undertaken at that time with such a
craft. I had many times used similar boats to cross
streams. A "dugout" is a boat made from a log, being dug out,
as its name implies, and many of them are not very
steady on the water, overturning very easily. This was
one of the unsteady kind, and the river at the point where
the boat lay at that time was very rapid. A short dis
tance below was the upper end of an island, against
which a large quantity of drift timber had lodged and
against which the current was lashing itself with great

212 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
force. After considering the situation for a few mo
ments I concluded that I could make the crossing, as I
was obliged to do, or await the fall of the river. The
boat was so small and frail that it was not safe for us
all to undertake to cross at one time. I said to the men
of the party that I could take them safely over, as I
believed, provided they would do just as I should com
mand them, and not become frightened. I said also that
we must cross the river or lie still until the freshet should
subside, which might be several days ; that I would
leave it to them to decide whether to go or not, as it
was, as I knew, attended with some danger to make the
attempt to cross.
Possibly we might meet with some accident, and if
so, we probably would fare hard. They concluded to
make the attempt. I took two men into the boat with
me, together with the instruments. The men sat on the
bottom of the boat to steady it, and after giving them
their instructions, I pulled the boat into the current.
Though the passage was difficult we went safely across
to the other side of the river. But our troubles had only
begun. The lowlands along the river were overflowed
to a depth of several feet; in places it was so deep that
it was impossible to wade it, so that it was necessary to
make triangulations. The country was timbered, and
brushy, and the line's crossed the island.
We were wading in the water nearly all day. I be
lieve now, considering the water, brush and all the con
ditions there present, it was the most difficult line of equal
length that I encountered on all the surveys I made while
in Oregon.

WITH COMPASS AND CHAIN IN OREGON 213
It crossed the river at a little more than one-half mile
¦from the corner at which we began, and we worked in
the water nearly the entire day, but got the line across
before night.
At the time when we were wading in the deep cold
water, Mr. McDonald began to complain as usual, and
said he would quit the job. I was feeling a little out
of patience myself, and I said to him that he had been
saying about the same thing whenever we got into a hard
place, and that I had become tired of hearing it. I ad
vised him either to stop such talk or quit at once. He
replied that he would quit after that day. I said, "all
right." The next morning when we prepared to start for
our work, he said to me that he supposed I understood
he was to quit work. I remarked that I had heard him
say as much when we were in the water the day pre
vious, but that I had concluded that probably he had
changed his mind in the meantime. He went to work
again and continued for several days, when he concluded
to quit, and his companion went with him.
This broke up our party, when it was near the first
of February. My contract at that date was less than
one-half completed. As I was getting short of supplies
that were impossible to procure from the settlers, I sent
the campman with the horses to Albany, it being about
twenty-five miles northerly, down the Willamette valley,
and gave him orders to procure such supplies as were
needed, and to hire two good men. I remained alone in
an unfinished log house while he was absent, about one
week, and was engaged in copying my field notes. He
returned with provisions and brought along with him

214 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
two men that proved themselves to be very good help.
After this time we had much better weather, and also
an improved party. I finished the contract about the 25th
of March, and went to Oregon City with my returns.
Before my return to Oregon City, Mr. Elder had ar
ranged for a double contract in the Umqua valley, and
had the name of Harry S. Gile associated with his own
in a similar way that he had my name used in the con
tract a year previous.
As at that time I could have no contract of my own
until later, Mr. Elder suggested that I go with him to the
Umqua valley. As Mr. Gile had had but little experience
as a compassman I could help him survey the township
lines, and return in season to get a contract of my own,
which would probably be available later. I at once
agreed to his proposition.
The location of the contract was about 150 miles south
of Oregon City on an air line, and included the best part
of the Umqua valley. It consisted of eight or ten town
ships, both the exterior and interior lines, or between
700 and 800 miles of surveys.
We left Oregon City for Umqua about the middle of
April, 1853. It was a good country to survey, and Mr.
Elder made it well. I remained until the contract was
completed, some time near September ist, or between
four and five months.
I surveyed the larger part of the township lines and
considerably more than one-half of the subdivision. Mr.
Gile worked one party, and I the other, while Mr. Elder
copied the field notes and drew the maps.
A short time previous to the completion of the con-

WITH COMPASS AND CHAIN IN OREGON 215
tract, Mr. Elder proposed to me that if I would remain
and complete the work, he would go to the surveyor-
general's office at Oregon City and get a large contract
in the Rouge River valley, the same to be a company
contract for Mr. Elder and myself.
The Rouge River valley was about seventy-five miles
south-easterly from the place where we were then at
work, and the understanding was to move our parties
over there from the Umqua country, and thus save the
breaking up of the parties. I at once consented to the
proposition, and Mr. Elder was to start for Oregon City
at once, both of us feeling certain he would be able to
procure the contract.
Before he had started, however, we received informa
tion that an Indian war had broken out at the Rouge
River valley. That put a stop to our proposed contract.
Of course, we could do no surveying during an Indian
war. The war continued during the succeeding three or
four months.
General Joe Lane was then in Oregon, and with the
United States regular army that was stationed there, to
gether with volunteers, he secured peace. But a large
number of the white inhabitants lost their lives during
the outbreak. It happened very fortunate for our sur
veying party that it did not occur a month later, when
we should probably have been surveying in that valley,
and probably some of us would have lost our scalps.
The war was said to have been caused by the abuse of
the daughter of the chief by some gold miners who
were at work on Rouge River, and as the perpetrators of
the foul deed immediately left the place, so that the

216 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
chief could not punish the guilty parties, he made prep
arations to exterminate all the white people then in the
valley. Nothing was known in relation to his intentions
by the whites until his arrangements were completed.
One day when all was in readiness, as he supposed,
the Indians commenced shooting down the whites indis
criminately in Jacksonville, the principal village of the
Rouge River settlement. In this instance, as in one or
two other Indian outbreaks that I knew something about
while I was in the Indian country, the trouble was caused
by ill treatment of the Indians by the whites, and I
firmly believe the same, or similar causes, have produced
similar results in the great majority of Indian wars and
massacres since the discovery of America by Columbus.
It is my opinion that the poor Indian — naturally a noble
race of men — have been most shamefully and wickedly
abused and mistreated.
I will give just one instance that came under my ob
servation, as an illustration. In Oregon City I became
acquainted with a man by the name of Angel. About the
time the Rouge River gold mines were discovered and
began to be worked, Mr. Angel concluded to remove
there. Previous to his removal, as I was talking with
him in relation to the matter, he said he was the owner
of a good rifle, and that Indians were quite plentiful in
the Rouge River country. He said he intended to shoot
the first Rouge River Indian that he should see after his
arrival at that place.
I had some argument with him in regard to the justice
or propriety of committing such an act, but he persisted
that his mind was fully settled, and he would certainly

WITH COMPASS AND CHAIN IN OREGON 217
do that deed, provided he should have an opportunity.
When I was fully convinced that he was truly in earnest,
or appeared to be so, I said to him, that should he do
as he said he would do, and murder an innocent, un-
offensive Indian in cold blood, it was my wish that he
would also be shot by an Indian.
Mr. Angel removed to Rouge River, and I later learned
that he shot three or four Indians at different times,
while he was standing in his own doorway, and that he
made a boast of it, but that he was killed during the
Rouge River Indian outbreak. Provided I had the truth
of the matter, I certainly believe he received his just
deserts. Poor Mr. Angel!
We had a pleasant time while engaged upon the
Umqua contract, and after it was completed we returned
to Oregon City. Mr. Elder paid me $185 a month for
the time I was employed, nearly five months.
One incident that I failed to relate in its proper, place
I will insert here. When writing in relation to the work
on the contract in the winter of 1852-3, I wrote that I
sent the campman to Albany, where he hired two men.
One of these men had had very sore eyes, from which
he had not fully recovered. He said it was his opinion
the disease was contagious, as he believed he had con
tracted it from another person. A short time previous
to the finishing of that contract, one of my eyes felt as
though some foreign substance was in it. I endeavored
to remove it, but with no good results. The eye soon
became inflamed and troubled me badly. Within two or
three days later the other eye was affected in a similar
manner as the first. They were in bad condition and

218 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
troubled me much. After I had completed the contract
and went to Oregon City my eyes did not improve, but
steadily grew worse. I could not bear the light without
pain, and many times in the evening after the hotel was
lighted, it caused me such suffering I would go outside
and walk the dark streets. In the morning my eyes
would be fairly glued together, and it would be impos
sible for me to open them until I had removed the sticky
substance and open them with my fingers.
I applied to the English physician I have previously
mentioned, and he gave me some salve, which he directed
me to apply at night. I applied it as directed. It
seemed almost like putting fire into my eyes. After I had
applied it for two or three nights, my eyes instead of
improving, as I had reason to suppose they would do,
became worse, and in the morning after I had succeeded
in getting my eyes open I threw the box of salve into
the street. From that time my eyes began to improve.
I wore colored glasses for a time to protect them.
When I left Oregon City for the Umqua with Mr.
Elder, although my eyes had improved some, they were
very sensitive to light. They continued to improve, but
when I commenced work they troubled me greatly. I
could see double — that is, I could see two objects where
there was only one. Suppose I was looking at a man
some distance away, I would seem to see two men, in
stead of one.
However, my eyes continued to improve slowly but
steadily, and at length regained their normal condition,
so far as my sight was concerned. Still it was a long
time before they became strong, so as to bear any ex-

AVITH COMPASS AND CHAIN IN OREGON 219
cessive light without causing me pain, and it is my
opinion they were never quite so strong after that time
as they had been previously.
At the presidential election that took place in Novem
ber, 1852, Franklin Pierce of New Hampshire was
elected president of the United States. This caused a
change in the national administration from Whig to
Democratic. After I arrived at Oregon City from the
Umqua valley, Mr. Preston said to me that he supposed
that Mr. Pierce would send a man there to take his place
as surveyor-general, and that he would be removed from
the office. He also said that as I had been crowded out
of a contract in the previous spring, which I was really
entitled to, he would give me my first choice of a con
tract from any of the lands at that time available to be
surveyed. After we had examined the plans, I selected for a
contract the country west of the Willamette River, in
cluding the Long Tom valley. The contract was dated
September 19, 1853, and included the survey of the 4th
standard parallel south of range 5 and 6 west, the town
ship lines of townships No. 16, 17 and 18, south of range
No. 5 west, and 14, 15, 16, 17 and 18, south of range
No. 6 west, or so much of these as was suitable for
settlement, estimated at 396 miles, at $12 per mile. The
west line of some of these townships ran into the coast
range of mountains, and included some lands that were
unfit for cultivation. This was the largest single con
tract, as I believe, that had been awarded to any deputy
in Oregon. It proved to be a good contract, notwith
standing I had some very difficult township lines to sur-

220 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
vey in the mountains. Instead of the surveys amounting
to 396 miles, there were 486 miles of surveys. In mak
ing the surveys of the public lands the deputy contracts
to do the work at a certain price per mile ; employ and
pay his own help, and also pay all expenses. We paid
help at that time each by the day and paid for the time
only that we were able to work, on account of good or
bad weather.
As soon as practicable after the contract was signed,
I made up my party and left Oregon City, September
23» x853- My party consisted of A. M. Addington and
Granville Blake, chainmen, and John E. Boyd and
Joseph Hawkins. All were from the western states.
I began work on the survey September 28. The
weather was fair for the most part until the 13th of
October, and it was not very stormy and bad through
November. The west line of the west tier of townships for nearly
its entire length, or thirty miles, was in the coast range
of mountains. It was very difficult to survey. The spurs
and ravines made it up or down nearly the whole dis
tance. Much of the way it was very steep. The moun
tains were heavily timbered. To survey these lines it
was necessary to pack some provisions and take along.
When night came we would build a fire, and after par
taking of such eatables as we had managed to carry with
us, lie down to sleep. To survey the two lines of a
township in this broken country usually kept us in the
mountains three or four days at a time, and we would
carry with us provisions sufficient to last that length of
time. Each one would carry his own pack.

WITH COMPASS AND CHAIN IN OREGON 221
Before the middle of October we had completed the
lines of the three townships of range 5, which was in a
fine country to survey, and had made some progress upon
the other range. In cloudy weather we worked upon
the subdivisions. There was considerable cloudy and
rainy weather in November, while December proved still
worse. I completed the subdivisions of the three town
ships of range 5, and on December 9th went to Marys
ville and copied my field notes, as the weather was so
cloudy and stormy that I could not work to any advan
tage. I returned from Marysville December 21, and
worked a few days, when there came a snow storm. The
snow fell to the depth of ten or twelve inches and it was
light and dry like a New England snow in mid-winter.
It cleared away cold, and we had really a New Hamp
shire winter for about two weeks. The snow blew and
ice formed over the streams and other exposed waters
six or eight inches in thickness. This was a very un
usual occurrence for Oregon.
This state of affairs continued for more than two
weeks, or until the 27th of January, when it became
warm, and the snow soon melted away.
During the cold spell we could do no work at survey
ing, but keep ourselves as comfortable as possible in
our tent.
In December and January we worked only twenty-
seven and one-half days. February was a better month,
but we had some stormy weather.
I finished the contract April 21, 1854, just seven
months from the time of its date. We worked 133 days on
the field work and averaged very nearly three miles for

222 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
each working day. After the contract was completed
we started for Oregon City, leaving all the camp equip-
page, blankets, etc., with a man near Albany, going by
the Willamette on a steamer. When I arrived at Oregon
City, Colonel Gardiner was in the office as the new sur
veyor-general of Oregon Territory, Mr. Preston having
been deposed during the winter. Mr. Preston had re
mained in the place and had opened a private land office.
Colonel Gardiner was a good man in his place, but he
knew very little in regard to the public land surveys.
As Mr. Preston was a practical engineer and surveyor,
it was a poor exchange in a practical sense.
I copied and returned my field notes and plats to the
office. At this time, my friend, Mr. Elder, had returned
to his home in Illinois, and Mr. James E. Freeman had
gone to California and was employed on the public sur
veys there. After my work on the field notes and maps
was completed, which kept me busy for a considerable
time, I was one day near the Willamette below Oregon
City a short distance picking some strawberries for
pastime, when a gentleman accosted me and inquired if
my name was Webster. I replied that it was. He said
he was agent for some coal mines on Bellingham Bay,
at the north end of Puget Sound, near the British
boundary and opposite to Vancouver Island. He repre
sented a company in New York, and had come to Oregon
City for a surveyor to go there and make a survey of
the land upon which the mines were located. He went
to the surveyor-general's office, where I had been recom
mended to him, and he asked me if I would go with
him and do the work.

WITH COMPASS AND CHAIN IN OREGON 223
I agreed to do the job, which was a matter of a few
days' work only, after we should have reached the place.
He was to return to Olympia, situated at the head of
Puget Sound, immediately, where I was to meet him.
I started on the trip June nth, and went down the
Willamette to Portland in a steamer. From Portland I
boarded another steamer and traveled down the Willa
mette and Columbia Rivers about 70 miles to the mouth
of the Cowlitz River. From this point I went up the
Cowlitz River in an Indian canoe, propelled by two or
three Indian men with poles, about 35 or 40 miles, as
far as the Cowlitz Farms Landing. From Cowlitz Land
ing I rode horse back 50 or 60 miles to Olympia, at the
head of Puget Sound, where I arrived June 16.
At Olympia I learned the agent had gone ahead down
the Sound, and had left instructions for me to follow
with the mail carrier to Alki Point, near the present site
of Seattle, about 60 miles from Olympia, where he pro
posed to meet me.
We left Olympia in the afternoon in a small skiff, and
made a landing at Steilacoom for the night. This was
about 20 miles from Olympia. Upon reaching Alki
Point early the next morning I met the agent, who had
engaged three Indians with a large Indian cedar canoe
to take us to Bellingham Bay, which I believe was about
100 miles northerly.
On leaving Oregon City I had heard of an Indian out
break at Puget Sound, and I learned that there had been
an attack at Bellingham Bay. I was advised to abandon
the trip, but I had resolved to keep ahead.

224 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
Two other men, friends of the agent, went with us
from Alki Point (Seattle), which, including the three
Indians, made seven in our party. After leaving Alki
Point we encountered some dangerous experiences with
our canoe on the Sound and got thoroughly drenched
with water several times, but the Indians succeeded in
keeping the cedar canoe right side up.
At length we reached Bellingham Bay, which I believe
was the same location where the city of Whatcom,
Washington, is now situated. When we arrived we
found five or six men, which was all the inhabitants then
residing in that vicinity. They occupied a small log
cabin, which was the only building within many miles.
This was the exact location where two men of the
same party had been killed by the Indians a short time
previous. The door of the cabin was literally riddled
with bullets.
The. trouble had been with the Indians from up the
British coast, near Fort Snelling. It was a very intel
lectual tribe of red men, who were tall and well pro
portioned, with a skin almost as white as many of the
white race.
A number of the Indians had been employed for a
considerable time at one of the sawmills along the sound,
and had been very satisfactory laborers, when for some
cause they concluded to quit work. The proprietor
refused to pay them the amount due at that time unless
they should continue. A dispute arose, when the pro
prietor drew his revolver and shot one of the Indians
dead on the spot. The other Indians immediately left
for their homes. This caused the trouble.

U:

From a Painting by Frank Holland.
WARSHIP PORTSMOUTH WHICH CARRIED THE AMERICAN FLAG INTO SAN FRANCISCO IN 1846.

WITH COMPASS AND CHAIN IN OREGON 225
The chief of the tribe fitted out a war party and they
came down the coast to the sound in large war canoes,
and at once created a general alarm at the settlements
all along the sound. These war canoes were made from
giant cedar logs, and neatly and elaborately ornamented.
Some were of sufficient capacity to carry 50 warriors,
each one with a paddle.
The men at the coal camp at Whatcom had heard of
the danger and had taken the precaution to keep out a
guard at night, two at a time. They supposed the
Indians would approach them by water in case they made
an attack, consequently they adopted the plan of keeping
guard in a boat, anchored a short distance from shore.
On the night of the attack, two men were on guard
in the boat as usual, when the men in the cabin heard
shots at the landing, only a few rods distant. Thoroughly
alarmed they took to the brush for safety. The Indians
fired many shots into the house, but the men had made
their escape. The two men on guard were supposed to
have been surprised and killed, but their bodies had not
been discovered when I was there. One evening about
sunset we heard much shooting out in the bay, but it
was too far away for us to see so as to ascertain the
cause. We supposed it to be a war party of the Indians,
which was later learned to be the fact. They were ex
changing shots with some men in boats.
That night we expected an attack at our exposed camp,
and we were all armed and prepared to defend ourselves
as well as possible under the conditions. But they did
not trouble us and we heard nothing further from them
during our stay.

226 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
I completed the survey as was desired. As I now re
member I surveyed two square miles of land, on which
the coal mines cropped out. After the surveys were com
pleted we left Whatcom on our return, and arrived at
Steilacoom on the evening of the 3d of July, 1854. Here
we celebrated Independence day and remained until the
5th, after which I returned to Oregon City over the
same route I had traveled when on my way out, having
been absent about twenty-eight days.
After my return Colonel Gardiner, the surveyor-gen
eral, offered me the work to finish the remainder of a
contract somewhere in the northern part of the territory,
upon which a deputy had been at work and had failed
to finish it. So far as I was able to learn in regard to
it, it was located in a rough, brushy, timbered country,
and was not a desirable piece of work.
Yet, as I learned, the deputy who first took the con
tract and undertook to do the work, did not attend to
his business as he should have done, which was probably
the real cause of his failure.

CHAPTER XI.
HOMEWARD BOUND
I was satisfied that I could make the work pay me
some profit, but it was not a very desirable contract.
Still, if I refused to accept this offer from Colonel
Gardiner, I could not afterwards consistently ask him
for a better contract. If I should accept it and finish
the work, I might later be in a position to receive a
better offer from him. The most desirable country in
Oregon, lying west of the Cascade mountains, had al
ready been surveyed, or was under contract.
At first I was undecided which course to pursue. It
seemed to be a turning point in my life. Should I engage
to do the work, I might perhaps remain in Oregon for
years to come, and possibly never return home. At that
time it was about five years and three months since I
had left home, and I had learned that the longer the
absence was continued, the less strong my desire to re
turn. But I soon came to a decision to go back to my old
New Hampshire home, if for nothing more than a visit.
I thought that perhaps this was as good an oppor
tunity to do so as would offer itself in the near future.
Consequently, I made arrangements with Mr. Preston
to draw the money for the balance of the surveys for
which I had not yet been paid, and to forward the samp,
to me at Hudson, N. H., my home. After having been
a resident of the territory of Oregon for some more than
227

228 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
three years, I left Portland for San Francisco in the
steamer Columbia, which was the same vessel that
brought me to Oregon.
To convey a faint conception of the many vicissitudes
of the surveyors employed in making the surveys upon
the public lands of the United States in sparsely settled
regions, I will relate two or three incidents from many
similar experiences which occurred while I was engaged
upon the public surveys of Oregon.
One morning while making surveys of township lines,
previous to leaving camp I gave the campmen their
orders (I had two at that time) to move the camp during
the day six miles east, or as near that point as they could
find wood and water for camp purposes.
We were to start from the township corner that
morning, and survey a line due east. Provided it should
prove a good country for surveying, we could nearly or
quite reach the opposite township corner, a distance of
six miles, where I had ordered the campmen to pitch
camp. This was in the late autumn when the days were short,
and at that season we took no lunch with us. The usual
time for us to finish breakfast and leave camp in the
morning was as early as sunrise.
On the day mentioned, our line was principally through
a timbered and brushy country, so when night came we
had completed but three and one-half miles.
Just before it began to grow dark, we left the survey
and started east, expecting to find our camp within two
or three miles. We had traveled about that distance
when we came to a wagon trail or road, the course of

HOMEWARD BOUND 229
which was nearly north and south, and near which was
plenty of wood and water. We hallooed, as was our
custom, to attract the attention of the campmen, but re
ceived no reply.
Under ordinary conditions we could be heard at least
one mile, and sometimes, when conditions were more
favorable, nearly or quite two miles. As we heard no
reply from the campmen, we followed the road south
about three miles, but could hear nothing from our camp.
We then retraced our steps to the point at which we
first intersected the road, and followed it in the opposite,
or northerly direction, for about an equal distance, but
could hear no reply to our calls, when we felt certain the
camp could not be in that direction.
We again retraced our way to about the point at
which we had at first intersected the road. We had
seen no house on that day.
It was then about eleven o'clock at night. I saw a
place by the roadside where there was an abundance of
dry .wood, and I said to the party that I should camp
there for the night. They all concluded to adopt a
similar course. We started a good blaze and remained
near it until morning.
When morning came we started to find either our
camp or some house. One of the men went with me,
and we traveled in a southerly direction. The two other
men went in another direction.
About ten o'clock in the forenoon we came to a small
cabin. We entered it and found a man there who was
living alone. I asked him if he could prepare something
eatable for us, as we had eaten nothing since early in

230 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
the morning on the day previous. He replied he was
alone and that he could do nothing for us. I said to
him: "Have you any provisions of any kind about your
house?" His reply was that he had a little. I said that
"we must have some of such as you have," and that if
he did not produce it for us himself we would help
ourselves to such as we might be able to find about the
house. He at once kindled a fire and prepared us a din
ner, but it was near noon before our meal was in readi
ness. Previous to the time our dinner was in readiness
the other two men made their appearance, and they had
become so much exhausted and faint for the want of
food, they had been eating the barks and roots of trees.
The next day I commenced work again without look
ing for camp any farther, but selected a line in another
direction, which was through a country with settlements.
We worked three or four days, stopping at the houses
for accommodations at night, before we heard anything
from camp. Then the campmen found us, and I after
wards learned, although they would not admit it at that
time, that instead of going six miles east, they traveled
six miles south, and camped about nine miles from the
point where they were ordered to go.
On another occasion, at the time I was engaged in
running a party for Mr. Elder, upon going to camp one
evening when it was nearly dark, we followed a line into
a brushy bottom, to correct a quarter section post that
had been set on a random line by the other party at work
for Mr. Elder. One man accompanied me, who was
present with the other party when the post was located.
We followed the surveyed line and found the post with-

HOMEWARD BOUND 231
out difficulty, and made the necessary correction, mark
ing witness trees, etc.
At that time we knew the location of our camp, as it
was not to be removed on that day. It was not more
than a mile distant in a straight line. To follow the line
back, upon which we had come, until we should reach
the open land, and then go to camp would double the
distance to be traveled.
The man with me proposed to take the short cut
through the brush, and claimed to know the way as he
had been over the same route with the other party. It
was becoming quite dark, and I consented to his leader
ship, against my better judgment, which was something
I seldom did, to follow another in the woods.
The route was very brushy, with much fallen timber,
and being quite dark, our progress was slow. We con
tinued to travel, making our way through the tangled
brush as best we could. At length we came to a small
river, from which we drank some water, and where we
rested for a short time.
It being dark, it was impossible to read the bearing
from the instrument. It was my opinion that we had
not traveled altogether in a direct line. My companion
desired to cross the stream, but I was convinced that
we were on the same side as was our camp.
We again started and traveled until about eleven
o'clock, previous to which I had utterly abandoned all
hope of reaching camp on that night. As we came to
a tall white fir tree, I said to my companion that I
should camp under that tree for the night, as I believed
we had traveled in a circle, at least to some extent, and

232 THE 00LD SEEKERS OF '49
there was no possibility for us to reach camp before day
light. He didn't agree with my opinion, and he claimed
we had traveled nearly in a straight line. He thought
that we must be near camp, and left me, expecting to
reach camp within a short time.
I climbed the tree, probably to a height of nearly ioo
feet, to break off some twigs, on which to lie down for
the remainder of the night. I remained in the tree for
a considerable time, listening to the noise that came from
my companion as he made his way through the brush.
His progress was slow, as ours had been, and I could
distinctly hear the brush crack, but instead of keeping
a straight line, as he supposed he was doing, he soon
began to bear away to the left in a curved line. He
continued to circle to the left, but not for once did he
pass beyond my hearing.
In about three-quarters of an hour after he left me,
I could hear him approaching from nearly the opposite
direction from that in which he had started. I de
scended the tree and awaited his approach. When he
had reached a point within a few rods of me, he
hallooed. I answered his call. He seemed surprised and
came to me. His first question was how I came there.
It was some time before I could convince him of the
fact that I had remained during his absence at the same
place where he had last parted from me.
He thought he had traveled in a straight line, and
when he first heard my voice in answer to his call, he
believed he was almost in camp. When he became con
vinced that he had passed around in a circle, and had
made no progress toward camp, he seemed to be sat-

HOMEWARD BOUND 233
isfied to remain with me until morning. The next morn
ing I led the way to camp without any difficulty, where"
we arrived shortly after breakfast time, having been
without food for some more than twenty-four hours.
These are sample or specimen cases, and many other
similar, more or less varied experiences could be related,
if space would permit, such as sleeping out in the moun
tains in the winter season, with one blanket only, with a
cold drenching rain falling all through the night. I have
awakened to find myself completely covered with snow
two or three inches in depth, with the exception of my
face. At that time there were roaming in the coast and
cascade ranges of mountains and valleys numerous wild-
animals, such as grizzly and black bears, cougars or
mountain lions, wild cats, gray wolves and coyotes, deer,
moose and many other species of animals. There were
also two or three kinds of rattlesnakes.
Sometimes we would approach within sight of one of
the animals, which would seem to be pleased to increase
its distance between us as rapidly as possible. They are
savage, ferocious animals when aroused, but when they
are respected and passed at a distance without being in
terfered with in any way, they are seemingly not to be
feared. To keep peace with them, their rights as mon
archs of the forests should always be respected.
In San Francisco I met Mr. James E. Freeman, whd
was about to start on a survey of the public lands of
California, and he desired me to assist him in doing the
work. He offered me a salary of ten dollars per day and
board for the entire time we should be absent from San

234 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
Francisco, in completing the work of the contract. I
considered that to be a very liberal offer, and I hesitated
before declining it. However, as I had made a start for
home, and my mind had been fully decided in that di
rection; I concluded not to make a change.
I also found my uncle, Alfred Cummings, in San
Francisco, occupied with carpenter work, and he had
concluded to go home with me.
San Francisco had greatly increased in size and pop
ulation, and had improved its condition during my ab
sence. I remained there eight or ten days awaiting the
departure of a steamer for Panama.
We left San Francisco near the end of July and took
passage on the steamer Yankee Blade. Before reaching
Panama the coal became exhausted, and we landed on
a small, uninhabited island, where wood was cut and
carried aboard the vessel in boats for fuel, in order to
complete the voyage. We were then within two or three
days sail of Panama.
In due time we reached Panama, where we landed and
remained over night. At that time the Panama railroad
had been completed from Aspinwall to a point about nine
miles distant from the town of Panama, and near the
summit of the isthmus. We left Panama the next morn
ing, riding on mules, which were provided us by the
steamship company, anticipating that we would reach
Aspimvall, on the Atlantic shore, and board the steamer
for New York that evening.
We reached the end of the railroad without any undue
delay, and boarded a train of cars for Aspinwall, but
from some cause or causes, to the passengers unknown,

HOMEWARD BOUND 235
there were many delays, and our progress on that day
was quite discouraging. We were sidetracked for the
night, but a few miles distant from the point of starting,
and the engine left us, word being given out that the cars
would not move until morning. I procured something to
eat at a small restaurant, and slept for the night upon
the table at the same place. In the morning we supposed
we were to go directly through to Aspinwall, but similar
delays to those experienced the day preceding occurred,
and when night came we were again sidetracked only a
few miles distant from the place we spent the night pre
vious, and at a distance from any place where we could
procure refreshments. The patience of the passengers
had become almost exhausted.
There were no conveniences for sleeping in the cars.
They were full of passengers and the atmosphere was
very bad, caused by poor ventilation.
Some time during the early part of the night I went
to the rear platform of one of the cars and laid down
and soon fell asleep. This was a platform I supposed
the passengers would not use to pass over when going
out or into the cars.
During the night some one in passing out in the dark
ness came in contact with me, which caused me to awake,
and I spoke to him. He told me if I should continue to
lie there in the night air, with no covering, I should
almost certainly contract the deadly Panama fever. I
replied that I would take the risk, and again fell asleep
and enjoyed a very comfortable rest for the night. The
next day the train took us through to Aspinwall with but
little delay.

236 THE GOLD SEEKERS OF '49
What caused the necessity to detain several hundreds
of passengers in a train of cars for three days and two
nights while traveling a distance of less than fifty miles,
and where there was very little accommodation for re
freshments or sleep, I could never comprehend.
At Aspinwall we boarded one of the steamers for New
York. We had a fine passage to New York, where we
arrived without any undue delay.
We remained in New York over one night, when we
proceeded on our journey home, where we arrived near
the last of August, 1854, after an absence of a little more
than five years and four months.

ADDENDA.
THE DISCOVERY OF GOLD.
There are conflicting accounts as to who was the real
discoverer of gold in California. Long before its actual
existence was known the country Avas pictured as a mar
velous Eldorado. As early as 1524 Cortes was given a
dazzling description of a "wonderful island in the Pacific
exceedingly rich in pearls and gold." Drake said in his
journal, "the country seems to promise rich veins of gold."
The native Indians claimed that gold existed among the
streams, and in 1766 Jonathan Carver wrote with a spirit
of prophecy that "probably in the future ages the land may
be found to contain more riches in their bowels than those
of Indostan." So account after account is given premis
ing the existence of the precious mineral, until in 1847
Capt. Charles Bennett discovered gold near Sutter's mill,
while there in partnership with James W. Marshall, who
has since been credited as its discoverer. Bennett has a
marble shaft standing in the Odd Fellows' cemetery at
Salem, Ore., stating that he was the "Discoverer of Gold in
Califorma, and Fell in the Defense of His Country at
Walla Walla," in 1855, fighting the Indians. Marshall
bas a more pretentious statue at Coloma, Cal., proclaiming
him as the discoverer of the yellow nugget that started the
stream of golden wealth from the Pacific slope, which was
237

238 ADDENDA
to pour into the channels of trade in the United States
uutil nearly two billion of dollars can be traced to tlie
beginning of the hardy Argonauts who panned the first
free gold. This story would not be complete without men
tion of the fact that another claimant as discoverer of the
precious mineral was a young woman by the name of
Emma Bonney, who was spending the winter of 1845-6 in
the vicinity of Sutter's port. As the United States had
not then acquired a title to the country, her discovery was
not heralded abroad and nothing came of it.
Until 1847 California had remained a part of Mexico,
and was very sparsely settled. At that time, with the ex
ception of a small settlement of Mormons established by
Brigham Young in July, 1847, on the shore of Salt Lake,
Utah, the country between the Missouri line, near Fort
Independence, and the Sacramento valley, a distance of
more than two thousand miles, was an almost unbroken
wilderness, without civilized inhabitants, and spoken of as
the "Great American Desert." As every schoolboy knows,
or ought to know, Col. John C.Fremont was the real con
queror of California, and immediately the treaty was
signed, which made it a part of the United States, the
discovery of gold was proclaimed to the world, and instan
taneously the invasion began.
Not alone to Fremont and the Gold Seekers belongs the
entire credit of conquering California and transforming it
into a wonderland. Before the doughty Pathfinder had
found his way hither the sloop of war Portsmouth, built at
the Kittery navy yard just opposite of the city, whose name
the gallant vessel was to bear, in 1843. She sailed from

ADDENDA 239
Portsmouth December 9, 1844, to join tlie squadron of
Commodore J. D. Sloat in the Pacific, where she arrived
in season to participate in the Mexican War. On July 9,
1846, her crew under command of Lieut. J. S. Missroon,
landed at Yerba, Buena, as San Francisco was then known,
and took possession of the town, raising for the first time,
the American flag over California.
Not all of the Gold Seekers of '49 went overland, as Mr.
Webster and his party did. Considerable debating was
done at tlie time as to which was the best route; around
Cape Horn with its storms and vicissitudes, to say nothing
of the longer period of time required to make the passage;
across the Isthmus of Panama, with its vexatious delays
and constant dangers from tropical diseases; or by the
Overland Trail, which seemed to promise a more speedy
arrival at the destination, though that was fraught with
great peril from hostile redmen and the hardships of cross
ing an unknown country.
While naturally of a different experience the story of
those who went to the Land of Gold around Cape Horn is
not less interesting than that of those who performed the
tedious and terrible trip across the plains. Besides the
perils of the deep to be met and overcome were the suf
ferings from scurvy and other complaints belonging to a
life on the sea in those days. After all those who fared
worse were the ones who tried the middle route to find
themselves stranded in a tropical country unable to find
ways and means of crossing the stretch of land lying
between the oceans. Some tried the journey on foot, to
perish by the way or reach the western shore, only to find

240 ADDENDA
themselves no better off as far as continuing their course to
the hoped-for Eldorado; many were finally obliged to seek
passage on some homeward-bound ship, without having
realized their dreams.
Whichever way they went, upon their arrival in the gold
fields the mines proved a wonderful leveler of the classes
of men. No distinction of rank was known there.
Lawyers, doctors, ministers, men who wore kid gloves and
tall hats in the East, were glad to dig in the trenches with
the lowliest of laborers, all working for the same reward,
the golden talisman of fortune. Unable for any reason,
to succeed in the mines, some sought other ways of earning
a living, if not a fortune, and so the schoolmaster sawed
firewood, the erstwhile judge of an eastern court catered to
a hungry crowd, while some business man performed the
part of a cook, so wild were the pranks fate played upon
these fortune-seekers. But if few came back rich, as
wealth is reckoned, all helped to found in power and
prestige the glory of the Pacific Slope.

This preservation copy
was printed and bound at
Bridgeport National Bindery, Inc.,
in compliance with U.S. copyright law.
The paper used meets the requirements
of ANSI/NISO Z39.48-1992
(Permanence of Paper).
PB
(OO)

1996

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