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1915

A IIRIEF ACCOUNTT,,
TOSETBER WITH
OBSERVATIONS, MADE^URING A VISIT IN THE
WEST INDIES,
AND A TOUR THROUGH THE
IN PARTS OF THE YEAJIS 1832—3 j
TOGETHER WITH A
STATISTICAL ACCOUNT
OP

By Dr. i^OiniASI ROI^PK,
ANCASTEB, GORE DISTRICT, UFJ^SK PANADA«

DUNDAS, U. 0.
G. HEVWOBTH HACKSTAFF, FKINTEK.
'me. '

PREFACE.
Although I ara free to confess that my object, in ap
pending a Statistical account of Upper Canada, to my
notes of ttie West Indies and United States, is to induce
that portion of the British population, whose prospects at
home are gloomy and indifferent, to examine into the
actual resources of a Province, that would prove a bles
sing to emigrants, and be improved by emigration ; yet I
have most carefully endeavored to give only such state
ments as I can fully and entirely substantiate* The
inhabitants of Great Britain have been too apt to consider
Canada as merely a region of ice and snow, of pine forests
and lakes, of trappers and Indians, with a few forts and
villages intermixt, and produciirg only moccasins, furs
and ship timber.
But this is a very imperfect view of that interesting
country, which is growing in population and improving
iff cultivation, more rapidly perfmps than any pa^ ofthe
United States, if we except the territory of Michigan^ and
which must becorae, at no very distant period, a wealthy,
powerful, and populous Province, especially since the
efforts of a few worthless incendiaries striving to kindle
civil war, have proved ansuccessful, by the almost unan
imous decision of its inhabitants, conveyed in numberless
addresses to the present enlightened Lieutenant Governor,
expressive oftheir determination to prevent the dismem-
berinent of the empire, and by the return of a large majo
rity of Constitutional members to represent their feelings
in the House of Assembly. The government of Great
Britain, and the soundness of the great bulk of tbe people^
will prevent such a calamity from ever taking place.

4 PREFACE.
" That the Canadian Provinces will become a rich, po«rerful, and
populous country^ is certain. No minister, no policy, can prevent
that. But whether that wealth, ahd population, and jipwer, shall be
British, is for the wisdom of Government and Parliament to determine.
May it not be hoped, £faatt||e new constifaents, and their representa
tives, who have now aucceeaed to power, will make it a point ,of honor
and of pride,, not to suffer the erapire of their country to receive- an}'
detriment iinder their authority, not a single island to be lost, not one
Colony to be isevered, hot an inch of frontier or fishery usurped, nor
any source of wealth or industry tb decay; lest it should be written to
posterity, tliat a Reformed Parliament knew not even to sustain and
preservethat greatness, which the Boiougl)mongers had been able to
acquire." If we look at the map, the trtrth is apparent to the eye,
which is seldom adyerted to, when we speak of Canada,
that a large portion of the Province lyitig immediately
northward of lake Erie, iS situated in a lower latitude
than the greater part of Michigan, lower than all that
fine and fertile region along the great Canal in the State of
New York, very little further north than the Pennsylvania
line, and in the same parall'el with Massachusetts. But
it is well knoUnn that tlie climate is much less severebe-
tween the same parallels, as we approach the west, thus
Pittsburgh has a softer w3«ter a»d ja shorter one than
Philadetph'raVSfed Buffalo than Albany, so Upper Candida
is much milder than Massachusetts,
" The most papulous portion of Rnssiti is twenty degrees to tbe
north of the American border of Upper Canada; Montreal lies nearlv in
tiie sjirae parallel which cuts through the south of France, the Adriatic
and the Black Sea ! and above all, the Colonists crowding to that
"country are Britons— a race proverl)ially successful in all the tasks to
ije iaohieved by patient vigor and fearless adventure. Those men re-
<]Hire only room ; their native energies win do the rest The forest
will be cleared, the morass drained, the prairie will be a corn-field, the
Etandy hill will bear the yin*,^ tie huge lakes, those mediterraneans of
the new world, will be covered with the products of the mineral and
^^iculturdl weallth of thecountry ; coal has been already discovered
f^iglreatabundatice; iron and the various metals are already worked •

PREFACE. b
the hills abound in every kind of limestone, up' to- the purest marble.
The climate is singularly healthy. The higher latitude iepels all the
summei' epidemics that ravage the United States. Even in 'the sever
ity of itswititers, all that is injurious will yiel^ to the thinning ofthe
fopestsj the draitiingS ofthe swamps, and the' other labors of the accu-
nudating population. The temperature of the European tliniates has
gradually given way to the same means. The north of France, at the
time ofthe Roman conquest, was incapable of rearing the vine. The
north of Germany was the hilbitual seat of winter. Its frosts and
damps, more than the sword of Arminius, repelled the Roraan soldier,
seasoned as he wa«, ¦beyond all othermert, to all vicissitudes of cliraate.
But whatever may be the dreams of England's supremacy in this quar
ter of the globe, in one thing she ¦cannot be a dreamer — in the lofty
and cheering consciousness that she has laid the foundation ofa great
society, wliere all before was a wilderness. Whether the Canadas shall
retain their allegiance^ or shake it off, th«re will, at least, be human
beings wlifere once was solitude ; law — where Once was the license of
savage life ; religion, where the Indian once worshipped in brutish
ignorance ; and England's will be tfie wand that struck the waters from
the rock, and filled the desert with fertility and rejoicing. .
" The King of Great Britain, at this hour, commands a more nu
merous people than that of any other sceptre on the globe. He is
monarch over one hundred millions of men ! With him the old Spau-
isii boast is true : "On his dominions the sun never sets." But the
most illustrious attribute of this unexampled empireis, thatits princi
ple is benevolence ! that knowledge goes fortli with it, that tyranny
sinks before it, thatin its magnificent progress it abates thef calamitit'e
of nature, that it plants the desert, that it civilizes the savage, that tf
strikes ofi'the fetters ofthe slave, that its spirit is at once, " Glory to
God, and good will to raan."
A great part of Upper Canada is delightfully situated
for an agricultural country, free from mountains, it is
nevertheless abundantly watered, and almost surrotuided'
and intersected by navigable rivers and lakes,' oft which
its produce is easily transported to various and extensijie
markets. It possesses a soil as well as climate peciiliai?!^
favorable to the growth of wheat, and iraraense quantities
are grown in it. The Welland Canal connects the 'havi-
gation of lakes Erie and Ontario ; the Rideati C»nal,

6 PREFACE.
constructed round the obstructions in the St. Lawrence,
opens a free communication by water from the shores of
the Detroit river to Montreal, and thence to the Atlantic;
and it is in contemplation to connect lakes Huron and
Simeoe with the long and extensive chain of lakes
throughout the Neweastle District, orirapfoving the nav
igation of the Ottawa river and connecting it with, lake
Huron, opening a great field for agricultural and commer
cial enterprize. The advantage of the navigation of
these Canals and the St. Lawrence, are as exclusively
British, as fhe navigation of the Mississippi is American i
and the British government in order to augraent and
foster her iramense navigating interests, permits Canadian
produce into her ports at a very small duty, and the Pro
vincial legislature has just petitioned for a further remis-
•sion ofthe duties on tobacco, the western sectien of the
Province having been discovered to be peculiarly favora
ble for its growth. It is also ascertained that the climate
and soil, especially that of tbe western part of Upper
Canada, are admirably adapted for the growth of the
white Mulberry, to the cultivation of which, the attention
of our enterprisiag neighbors ih the United States has
Iq^g been earnestly directed : favored as we are in our
commerce with Great Britain, it would prove a mine of
wealth to the Province if entered into with spirit. This
country possesses physical capabilities of greatness and
of wealth, without limits, and beyond all bounds ; she has
a territory which is spread out to an interminable extent,
and fertile in every .production, conducing to the necessi
ties and the gratificatiouiof animal nature ; her navigable
livers, her capacious and convenient ports, and the broad
blue bosom of the Atlantic main, vvhich connects her with
the Mother country and her other Colonies, and with the
kingdoms of Europe, all give to her the means and the

PREFACE. 7
facility of acquiring the most ample and the most perma
nent strength.
" Nature and the arts Tiave conspired to make the Gulph of St,
Lawrence the seat of iempire in America. Cape Breton is its gate and
key; Quebec, with its silver spires and batteries confronting heaven,
is its^ citadel — and the towers along the steeps of Halifax, and cannon
that bristle on the shore, guard the port and arsenal of Marine. Within
reach, the commerce of the Atlantic ia carried Jby, on the stream fronri
the Gulph of Mexico, as on the bosom of a river, as the commerce of
the five great lakes will descend the broad St. Lawrence by the gates
of Quebec. Cape Breton, Halifax, the islands of Grand Manan and
Bermuda, not only secure the navigation of the ocean, but tbey shut
up and form a chain of blockade along the whole American coast.
Late be the necessity of exerting such a power again, as it^ former,
exercise was brief and successful ; but it is only by such pledges that
this country includes many people in her empire, and imposes the laws
of industry and peace."
With regard to choice between Canada and the United
States, particularly Illinois and Michigan, to which the
preference has been given by some late British anti-Brit
ish writers, two cireumstanees shetild be well considered :
First, to- become a citizen of the United States, a person
must serve an apprenticeship of five years, during which-
period he is cons^dsred as an alien ', at least three years'
before he is deemed w&rthy of naturalization, he is com
pelled to appear before a public court, abjure for ever his^
allegia;pce to t^e land of his birthj^ and the-King, and Con*
solution, which he has ever been accustemed to revere.
After this probation, and at the end of five years, he ha^
again, to renew his protestations of fidelity to thegovern-
ziie;it. of the United States, his abjtiration of all Kings,
more especially the King of Great Britain and Ireland,
After this purification from' all monarchial principles, he
may possess land and houses, and hold hereditable proper
ty, but he may rest assured that' he will -never obtain any
office either of hocior or emolument in the state. See^Bd*
i& addition to the gratification of assobiating with nu4- '

8 PREFACE.
bers from Great Britain, and seeing the British flag proudly
waving in every harbor ; in Upper Canada, a native of
Great Britain can hold property at once, becomes eligible
tb every office, and is indeed and in fact fully entitled to
all the rights and privileges he enjoyed at home, and hap
pily exempt from all the burdens which must nccesslHly
co-exist with a huge national debt. -Then with regard jto
salubrity, Canada must unquestionably take the prefer
ence, the cold of winter is divested of more than half of
its gloom afld misery, by the extreme dryness of the at
mosphere ; and the intense heat of summer is attempered
by delightful breezes frotn the lakes. In Illinois the sum
mer is much hotter than in Canada, and the cotjntry m
indifferently watered : in Michigan the vtfader is extremely
bad, a,nd the country ^bounds in pestilential swarafjs. It
is a very convincing proof of the excellence of theinstitu-
tions-of Canada, and quite deitionstrative of l^e freedom
from all oppression on the part of the goverhment, that
numbers of respectable citizens from the United States
come annually to settle In Canada, and; that there is not
a Session ofthe Provincial parliament, ia which thei:eai?e
not many -applications, by such persons, for the power of
ijatufalizQjtLpn. They are too keen and clear sighted a
people to settle and becorae subjects, in a Gsunt^y^ where
oppression exists, or where the most ample opportuniti^
are not afforded of acquiring competence.
Taxation can scarcely be said to exist in Canada, it is
so trifling, and only for repairing roads, and the expenses
of the different districts. Servants and laborCTs, and me
chanics of all descriptions are certain of employment and
ample remuneration ; and instances are numerous, of per
sons of this class having sent home money from their
savings, to assist in Minging out their indigent relations.
The public woifks in progress will fui^ish emploj^ment,

PREFACE. " 9
for years to come, to any number of laborers coming frOBa
Great Britain, and will continue to sustain the present
high wages which they receive for their work. The route
by ihe St. Lawrence, in good ships, is certainly prefera
ble, for persons of sraall means ; the passage is cheap, the
facility of reaching every portion of the Upper Province
great, and at small expense ,• whilst the establishment
throughout the Canadas, of benevolent societies, formed
for the purpose of aiding indigent emigrants, must prove
a great inducement to those whose helpless condition ren
ders elemosynary assistance indispensable. Thus tbe
poor laborer of Great Britain may come with confidence
to this country, and be sure to find a refuge ; his industry
encouraged, his piety respected, his ambition animated :
with no restraint but those laws which are the same to
all, and no distinction but that which his merit may origi
nate. Who can deny that the existence of such a country,
in connection with Great Britain, presents a subject for
human gratulation ! Who can deny that its gigantic ad
vancement offers a field for the most rational conjecture ?
I take this opportunity of returning my ver^ sincere
thanks and acknowledgements to many kind friends, for
the valuable assistance they have afforded me, in the com
pilation of these Statistics.
To my venerable friend, the Bishop of Kingston, whose
long residence in this Province, and whose unquenchable
zeal in the promotion of its welfare, has long endeared
him to the great bulk of its inhabitants, I am especially
obliged. He came into this Province when there were
but few houses in it, performing incredible journies by
land and by water, wading through rivers, reposing in the
forests, or receiving occasional accommodation in the
moveable hut of the wandering savage: he has lived to
see it the abode of thousands, who, without any other
2

W PREFACE.
capital than their personal labor, began to denude the soil
of its primeval forests, and are now owners of extensive,
well cultivated farms, and surrounded by all the substantial
comforts of life. It has been his earnest desire to behold
the industrious, but overburdened, classes frora Great
Britain, receiving the full meed of their laborious exer
tions here, where properly is unencumbered with feudal
burdens, undiminished by quit-rents or taxes, guarded by
Jaws equally administered, and sustained by the tutelary
arm of -Great Britain. Bishops McDonell and McEache-
ven were amongst the first to induce emigration lo Can
ada and Novascotia, by exerting their infiuence araongst
.the brave and hardy Highlanders, when quitting their
native mountains, not to desert their ancient banner of
St. Andrew, but take up their abode m a Colony of the
British Crown. And notwithstanding one of themost
abandoned men that ever disgraced the human name w
race, has been exerting hiraself for years, to sever the
connection between this iProvince and the Parent State,
yet I believe the great bulk ofthe people are quite satis
fied with the benevolent intentions of the Britishs^govern-
ment towards this Colony ,* exemplified, as it is, in every
measure 4hat could tend to promote its prosperity, and
<:rowned by the lumtinous instructions of Lord Glenelg to
^the present talented Governor ofthe Province, Sir P. B.
Head, in the satisfactory declaration, that her unrivalled
Constitution shall be firraly upheld. These base dema
gogues have fully satisfied the public of their revolution
ary views, and are only supported by those w^ose aim is
-destcuction, anarchy, and rebellion. They have sounded
Alecto's horp |ji a peaceful and prospering Province, re
tarded its^ improvement, and checked emigration for some
time, and despoiling and destroying, to the utmost of their
power, the fruits of industry, and the hopes of advance-

PREFACE. * II
ment, of thousands of enterprising, well affected sub
jects. •' Thus the pestilent Upas, the hyd'ra of trees,
Its bough o'er the wilderness spreads.
And with livid contagion polluting the breeze^
Its mildewing influence sheds ;"¦
But now that the knavery and wicked designs of these
men are discovered, who have made "a fraudulent trade
oftheir politics, under the illusive pretext of patriotisra,"
it is to belioped that the wise policy ofthe British govern
ment will cause the cessation of political agitation, and
induce British subjects toerabark their capital in Canada.
It is this that will enrich her fields, build up her villages,
populate her towns, and add wealth and magnificence tO"
her cities. It is only wicked agitators, and incipient re
bellion, that can arrest her, raidway in her career. She
holds within her own bosora the materials, and occupies
the elevated station that quaHfies her for the noble gran
deur of her destiny. Let her policy of internal improve
ment, then, be continued — ^let the raother country receive-
the grateful homage of loyal subjects, then will the benig
nant sway of Great Britain be felt, and the benificienb
effects of ber legislation will fall, Eke the dews of heaven,.
fertilizing and enriching all within its influence. Steam
boats and schooners will more and more crowd the har
bors on the lakes — the canals and rail roads will be cov
ered with merchandize — new villages, towns and cities
will be constantly springing into existence, reah zing the
following beautiful and alraost prophetic lines ofthe poet ;:
" Come, bright Inoprovement ! on the car of Time,
And rule the spacious world from clime to clitne j
Thy handmaid arts shall every. wild explore,
Trace every wave, aijd culture every shore.
On Erie's banks, where tigers steal along,
And the dread Indian chants a dismailsong,
Where human fiends on midnight errands walk,

12 PREFACE.
And bathe in brains the murderous tomahawk:
There shall the flocks on thymy pasture stray,
And shepherds dance at Summer's opening day ;
Each^Kand'ring genius ofthe lonely glen
Shall start to view the glittering haunts of men ;
And silent watch, on woodland heights around,
The village curfew, as its tolls profound."

CHAPTER I.

The fearful escitewient which existed, on the stibj-wT of
Colonial Slavery, in Em^aMd ia 1^2, as rt cowipeled
the Government to legislate upon it, with a view to its
final extinction, cannot be speedily for^tten. Having
detenmioed to diange my residence from England, for
some of the Colonies of Great Britain, I was iwost agreett-
fe!y swrprised in wieeting with an iutcilig-eitt Bind liberal
West India Pfemter, vvho had resolved on viaiSug Upper
Oa-nada, in order to make it his f«t«re resideace, if the
soil, -diraate, and other advantages were such as he had
3»een induced to expect irom the writings of those indi
viduals who had resided in thatcouolry. (Jfttil that tim^e,
N<ew Soudi 'Wales had been the object of my choice ; but
the kind invitatiom which I rec^ved from my valued and
esteemed friend,to visit his property in the West Indies and
afterwards accompany him to A»ierica, quickly induced
me to change my mind. T oo»fess that ike iectfures which
I had beard in England, from the hired agents -of the
anti-SlavCTy society, and the natoiral abhorrence with
which EagMsfinien contemplate a state of bondage, had
induced me to form a very strong opinion on that sutgect,
extremely hostile to the West India interest. My friend
never obtruded liie subject on me, it was one to him of a
painful character, ashis«atural benevolence iSf ; disposi-
tioB, and ardent l^bTedf liberty, at once compeHedMm to
admitj and ack»owIedge that Slavery was theoreticaHy,

14 WEST INDIES.
utferly indispensable; whilst his stisceptibility was much
affected by the exaggerated and interested accounts given'
of its pretended manifold horrors and practical mischiefs.
In the County of Essex, which I had just left, at the
annual meeting of the Maldon Whig Club, Mr. Honey
wood, a genUeman of talent and liberality, experienced
no inconsiderable portion of disapprobation, for having
ventured to interpose a few words in behalf of the slave
proprietors. These circumstances produced a powerful
impression on my mind, and induced me to take notes of
passing occurrences.
We sailed from Gravesend in the brig Retrench, o«
Saturday raorning, Nov. 17th, 1832, and from adverse
winds, and fog, wei-e corapelled- to drop anchor off the
Sluice house, Canvey Island. We left anchorjige on Sun
day morning, at 10 o'clock— kept tacking about —made
but litde progress, and cast anchor again at four o'clock,
ofFShoebury Ness. On Monday- we sailed at six o'clock,
but the fog increased so much, that we were compelled
to corae to anchorage again at ten. On Tuesday we met
the ships Talvera, and Calypso, making for Chatham,
to be repaired, in consequence of tbe injury they had
sustained during the fog, whilst engaged in watching tibe
coast of Holland. We came to anchor at Deal, which
presents a handsome appearance from the sea. Walmer
Casde, immediately contiguous to it, is a fine structure,
the residence of the Master of the Cinque Pc«1i& We left
Deal on Wednesday at two o'clock, and arrived at Ports
mouth on the . following afternoon. During these f&w
days I had suffered most severely frow sickness ; the ner
vous system was so disturbed as to prevent me from slee
ping, and even after landing, the vertiginous afiection
aiising from the tremulous and undulating rocking of the
ship, still for sotne period remained unabated. We were

WEST INDIES. %$ .
detained some time at anchor, opposite Ryde, from the
prevalence pf adverse winds ; the nlotion of the ship,
when at anchor, in a rough sea, is extremely disagreeable.
Frora our detention, an opportunity was afforded rae of
^visiting a Convict ship, then taking in stores at Ports-
«iiouth. There were arrangements in her, for conveying
two hundred and eighty crirainals to New South Wales.
The manner in which the ship was fitted up, combined
security with corafort. The holds, in which the convicts
«leep, were commodious : their allowance of food very
4iberal, and of the best quality, and every indulgence, con
sistent with their safety, is extended towards them, if
their conduct is orderly and well behaved. The unfortu
nate creatures were taken on board the ship, during our
stay at Portsmouth.: they gave three hearty cheers as
they left the land of their fathers ; raost of them for ever.
The government, willing to show thera every kindness,
orders the ship to remain off land for ten or twelve days,
in order that they may communicate v/ith their friends.
•On the 6th of December we weighed anchor, and frotrt
that time until the 7th, we were struggling through the
channels — at one time in danger of being becalmed, and
at . others endeavoring to make the best of violent and
unfavorable winds, until at length on the 7th we swept
past the land's end, and the famed white cliff's of Eng
land receded from our sight. The deadly and incessant
sickness under which I labored, I will not attempt to de-»
scribe." In another place, I will suggest some remedies
forits alleviation. Our voyage was marked by no pecu
liarity. I was however greatly araused, at a long conver
sation we sustained, with another ship, the Enchantress,
a free trader, carrying out emigrants to New South Wales.
The system of interrogation and answesK l| effected by »
species of telegraph, with flags numbered for

16 V»EaT INDIES.
tUefaeVlhy wilik which it is donCi, must prove of immense
utidity to maviacrs. By the 18th of Deceni;ber we we»e
in wana lariti^des'^ and nothing; co>uid exceed in beaaty
the vis'mg^ and setting sun.
The; ofbtof day,
In Soutlwrn climes, o'er ocean's waveless field.
Sinks sweetly smiling : not the fainted breath
Steals o'er the unruffled deep ; the- clouds of eve
Reflect immoved the lin-gerfng beam of d'ay ;
And vesper's image ou tltue western mam
Is. beau>tiful!y stilL
The weather was. remarkably calm, and warm ; the gram-
pusses were felsking abaut the ocean, aciusing us with
their frolicsome ganabols, and we also observed during
.the contiauaBce ofthis serenity many birds. 'I here is
sooxethiing disagreeable in the glare of the sea in a com
plete calm, the raotion of the ship is unpleasant, and the
perpetKial flapping ofthe sails annoying from its monotony.
And there the sea I found
CaUn as a cradled child in dreamless slumber hound.
Here the ship made a full stop>
'Day came, and went, and came» and brought no wind!'
"And there she lay, morning', noon and night,, rocking' and rolling on
the hoge, lazy ocean, which, Smooth as a polished mirror or a lady's
feifow, on. the suifaee, stil'f boveap and down with the eeassTess, majes
tic, and very uncomfortaJjle undeirswell of tlie Atlantic. Tbere is noth
ing' elae like that in nature. You that have not seen it, i^uaa^ine your
selves looking at a. boandiess and uneven pastoral country, divested of
htdge or tree : then imagine the multitudes of meadows beneath your
eye rising slowly and gracefuflTy to an equaKty with tbe hill-tops, and
then dteclining agaru into loing sweepi-ing valleys of abrupt dells, and
yau have some sligM idea ei>f th-e Atlaaticiin a calm. It is unquestiona
bly sublinue, (for a little bit,) the image of slumbeKing power, etc. ; but
I rather think that if Job had beeli tried upon it for any length of time,
' thei'^e would have been a different version of hi^ history at thisday."
" Now this lulling about, as Coleridge says,
'* '• *¦ As idle as a painted ship
;''* ' Upon a painted ocean.'

WEST INDIES, 17
On Christmas day we came into the trade winds, the
breezes were strong, and the ship sailed along majestically
with a large, press of canvass on her. On the 30th we
crossed the line ; the sailors were kind enough to spare me
from their customary ablutions, as I had given them
wherewith to offer up an atonement to Neptune, in the
form of grog. On the 6tb of January we saw an eclipse
ofthe moon, from the commencement to its final disap
pearance ; it was very distinct, and enabled the Captain
to test the accuracy of his chronometer, by comparing the
beginning and end of the eclipse with the tirae stated in
the Nautical Almanack. He found it perfectly exact, the
difference of time in the latitude and longitude we were
in, was somewhat more than three hours. On the 7th
we dined off a leg of mutton, kept nine days— it was of
the last of a sheep we brought from the Isle of Wight, and
proved remarkably sweet and tender. We were then in
latitude N 15 ° 17'. I mention this, because it is very sin
gular, that if a sheep brought from the West Indies were
killed in a still more northern latitude, it could not be
preserved untainted for, upwards of two days, This has
been frequently noticed in the ships homeward bound.
On the 13th the Captain calculated on making land,
anxious on account of rny enfeebled state, I was on deck
as early as four o'clock in the morning, and was sorely
disappointed at finding that he could not observe the most
remote appearance of it. He had put the ship on easy
canvass, during the night, from his conviction that we
could not be far from land. Wheh broad day light ap
peared, he ordered all necessary sail to be made, and the
lad who was ^ent up to the mast head to unfurl the sails,
suddenly beheld the distant coast, and exclaimed greatly
to our joy, that he saw the land a point and a half on the
starboard bow. It proved as he said, and we dropped
3

18 WEST INDIES.
anchor at one o'clock in Carlisle liay, iiarbados. The
first point of land that we ascertained distinctly, is called
Moncrieff, situate in the parish of St. Johu's. It is a bold
eminence, and has a signal post communicating with Cot
ton Hill, Granade Hall, and Gun Hill in St. George's
parish. It is one, ofa range of hills, objects of great beauty
in St. John's. The Cocoa nut trees fringing the shores :
the splendid breakers, called Bow Bells, extending a con
siderable distance into the sea, and the dazzling whiteness
of the beach, were all objects of delight to eyes accustom
ed to the sight of nought but sea and water for forty days.
nil nisi pontus et aer.
All along the coast, Cocoa nut trees were growing, but
much fewer than before the great hurricane, they were
still, however, remaining in sufficient numbers to render
the shore an object of deep interest and great beauty.
Before rounding a point of the Island, called Needham's
Point, we caught a glimpse of Carlisle Bay. It forms
both a coramodious and safe harbor, there were many
sbips at anchor, waiting the sugar harvest, aud being
Sunday, they were very gaily decorated with their res
pective colors, pendants and ensigns, and formed an im
posing and beautiful appearance. The bay is not very
spacious, but the anchorage is considered good, nurabers
of ships always laying there in complete safety. The
carenage is protected by a fine and very substantial pier.
The view of the garrison and naval hospital, the houses
and churches of Bridge Town — the bold headlands of the
interior of the island^ — the gaily dressed shipping in the
bay, raen of war, merchantmen, and coasting schooners 
the crowds of negroes — the appearance of the trees
shrubs, and flowers— the highly cultivated fields sloping
to the water's edge, were all alike objects of novelty and
gratification to me, to which an additional zest was given

WEST INDIES. 19^
by once more being on terra firma- On going up the
country to my friend's estate, I was forcibly struck and
much delighted with the neat appearance and laughing
faces of the negroes, who were enjoying themselves in
groups along the road side, many of tbem carrying bask
ets of fruit on their heads for sale, it being Sunday they
passed the day as they pleased. The various plantations
we passed, the collection of negro habitations, the number
of windmills, and sugar houses, the extreme richness and
splendour of the flowers and trees, were all novel and de
lightful objects. Indeed throughout the island was to be
seen nought but the appearance of happiness, content
ment, and prosperity.

CHAPTER II.

1 have stated that it was not a matter of choice with the
British government whether or not they would legislate
on the subject of Colonial Slavery ; this will unquestionr
ably appear by a reference to the number of petitions sent
to the Imperial Parliaraent on the matter. In the session
of 1833, there were presented to the House of Commons
5,020 petitions, witb 1,309,711 signatures, praying for the
immediate abolition of Slavery throughout the British do
minions. At that period, the office of Colonial Secretary
was filled by an individual of disdnguished talent, Lord
Stanley. He well knew that the question must at once
be boldly met, and legislative measures adopted, to pacify
a people so dietermined as those of Great Britain, on a

20 WEST INDIES.
subject too; of all others, to the consideration of which
they would not bring either reason, or fair arguraent ; nor
on which would they allow themselves to be influenced
by ahy considerations of policy or expediency. It was
clear that the longer the measure was delayed, tbe greater
would the exciteraent become, and that the party which
would ultimately suffer the most, would be tlie planter,
as every year would render their clamorous opponents
bolder, and stronger, and less inclined. to accede to the
measure of compensation, without which it would have
been one of barefaced injustice, and shameless robbery.
The inhabitants of Barbados were in the highest excite
ment in anticipation of the measures which would be
adopted by an administration generally adverse to their
interests, and easily influenced by public clamour. They
only desired that people, who readily believed every thing
tp their disadvantage, would come and examine into
the social state existing in these islands. I mention this
because I never met with an instance in which the plan
ters exhibited the least reluctance in having their system
of labor thoroughly examined, but on- the contrary gave
full and free permission to any one to investigate andas-
certain the state', condition, and treatment of the slaves.
My friend's estate is about six miles frora Bri^§6 Town,
*and is thus mentioned by Captain Alexander :
" I spent one day at a most charming residence, Taucluse, on a high
spot, delightfully cool, conmraanding extensive views. The proprietbf
, said that some Moravian Brethren had established themselves in his
neighborhood, and that those of his negroes who attended the instrgic-
tions of that excellent fraternity, were ejjctremely sober and industrfews.
His butler had Jatejy died, and he gave him a handsome funeral, for
he had served him faithfully for many years, and the njaster w^s anx-
ii9ue totestify his respect for his servant Shortly after this, a healthy
BPgrof refused all food, lay with his eye«°open',and gaeping as it were for
>rjg^.; the Poctorcould discover no aliment, and it was conjectuced

WEST INDIES. 21
that the bailor's funeral had so excited his envy, that he determined tp
have a similar one, and to starve himself. The master came in, and
said aloud, 'if this negro dies, I mean to throw him into a hole, and
bury him with his face down.' It is almost unnecessary to add, that
shortly after this speech, the sick took up his bed and walked forth
healed." I was kindly invited by a respectable planter, Mr. E. L.
Hinds, of Westraoreland, on Sunday, January 20th, to
pay bira a visit, and witness a festival araongst his ne
groes, called Joan and John. It was on the occasion of
the birth day of his daughter. After a very interesting ride,
on arrival at his house, a large building erected since the
hurricane, I observed in the forecourt, a group of negroes
very gaily attired, many of them decorated witb tasteful
and pretty ornaments, dancing with the greatest agility,
animation, and lightheartedness, and exhibiting too, great
elegance and precision in their steps. 'Ihe music they
adopt is oftheir own construction, one man sings, shaking
at the same time a calabash half filled with the berries of
a shrub called the English Plantain, answering the pur
pose of shot; another playing an instrument like a tam
bourine, and forming together admirable concord, from
their well regulated discord. Tbe negroes generally
evince a great fondness for music, and readily acquire a
good k nowledge of it. They continued to arrive in groups
tbe whole afternoon, all of thera well, and many of them
handsomely dressed. The scene was one of unusual ani
raation, their recreation and amusement joyous in the
extreme, and altogether unsuHied by that riotous intem
perance, and disgusting inebriation, which so often dis
figures and disgraces the peasantry of Engl^ind at their
rustic wakes and fairs. They handed round both cake
and wine of their own making ; and fruit in trays, tbey
were very excellent. Indeed it was altogether a very
gratifying spectacle, and one I litde expected to witness

22 WEST INDIES.
when I left England.^ That this dance should take placer
on Sunday afternoon, will appear objectionable to some,
but I cannot help thinking that the Sabbath should be as
well a day of recreation as of devotion : and that after the
performance of those rehgious exercises due frora the crea
ture to the Creator, that it is not only blameless and lawful,
but useful and expedient, that the remainder should be
enjoyed in innocent diversion. The Mosaic Sabbath
commenced on the e»e of the sixth day, and continued
until the eve of the seventh, "the evening and raorning
were the first day." The Church of England, in observ
ing the first day of the week as the Christian Sabbath,
agrees with the Church of Rorae, and observes equally
with that Church, the respective eves or vigils of different
festivals. She has her Easter Eye — Christmas Eve —
Whitsun Eve — and it would not be derogatory to her
character for devotion, and piety, if she permitted the ex
ercise of rational and innocent recreation after the after-
-npon service ofthe day vvas ended. A Rector residing in
one of the villages of Herefordshire, assured me that he
had tried the experiment, and found it attended with tbe
happiest effects. On the 9th of February I dined with the
officers of the St. Andrew's militia, at their new MelS
House erected near the sea, in the very centre of a rude
and highly romantic country, called Barbadian Scotland.
After leaving Vaucluse, and passing through a richly
wooded and very picturesque gleh, called Porey SprinSi.
where in the midst of the rudest and most grotesque
rocks, trees of every fantastic shape are beautifully inter
mingled, we continued gradually ascending, until arriving
at the summit of a mountain, near Mount Hellaby, the
whole of Barbadian Scotland suddenly burstson your
astonished view, exhibiting in its extent every species of
roraantic scenery, mountain after mountain rising above

¦west INDIES., 23
«ach other, and retiiing with, majestic grace in spiral
chalky rocks to the sea shore.
In many parts ofthis luxuriant picture, where the eye
is ever bewildered in the choicest beauties, and wanders
with delight over the startling irregularity of its hills and
dales, rude unbroken strata of rocks lean in various di-.,
rections, over dells of exquisite beauty, adorned with
thick foliage, which in this clime is produced frora a very
thin coat of soil. It is in tbe recesses of this woodland
solitude in which the witching cbar^isof this romantic re
gion operate most forcibly on tbe mind. Over this am
phitheatre of hills, flowers of the most beautiful descrip
tion are to be seen, growing in all tbe rich variety of tbe
most cultivated gardens, and interspersed occasionally in
the clefts aud in the hollows are to be seeij the majestic
palm, the magnificent cabbage-tree, the graceful plantain,
and small fields of sugar-cane extending from the base
to the very summit of tbe rocks. My friend who had
taken rae to enjoy this sylvan repast, after having arrived
at the Mess House, and introdiiced me to the officers,
kindly preferring ray gratification to his own convenience
proposed that we should extend our ride, already a very
fatiguing one but fbr the succession of beautiful scenery
presented to our gaze. I was much delighted in recog
nizing, in the Surgeon ofthe regiraent, an old friend arid
fellow student at tbe Borough Hospitals, and received
from him great kindness and attention.
We rode along the sea-coast several miles, enjoying on
the one side the prospect of a rude, romantic chain of
mountains, wild and intimidating, of the most fantastic
shapes and forms, and linked in stern confederacy, exhi
biting a noble elevation : on the other, a bold sea of the
most lovely blue and of transparent brightness, dashing
over huge rocks, and rolling in foaming billows, as if a

24 WEST INDIES.
succession of waterfalls graced tbe shores. We rcltnned
by a different route, the road wild and precipitous In the
extreme, sometimes running almost in a perpendicular di-
Tection over the beetling heights, sometimes contracting
itself into a narrow and dizzy pathway, or even an abyss
of appalling depth, and not unfrequently leading to passes
so completely hemmed in, and overhung by masses of im
pending rock, as by obscuring the light, gave it an ap
pearance of gloom and awe. It terminated however in
the exhilirating view of the rich valley in which the Mess
"H-buse was situated. On our reaching the Mess House,
we set down to a sumptuous dinner, at which the Colonel
of the regiment, a most hospitable and benevolent gende-
man presided. His brother officers were raost agreeable
and entertaining companions, nor can I omit to mention
Major Morris, a venerable gentleman, whose inexpressi
ble beriighity of countenance, and courteousness of de
meanour, cannot readily^ be forgotten by those who
have had the pleasure of meeting hira. This corps is
established for the protection of the island, against any
rebellion of the slaves, every free person in the island,
between the ages of sixteen and sixty, are considered eli
gible, and must swerve or find a substitute. This efficient.
force, vvhich meets in the different Parishes, once monthly.
throughout the island, has succeeded in preserving tfel
most pierfect tranquility, by the salutary awe which it has
inspired. In the afternoon, I saw the funeral of a negro'
woraan,'the long procession winding along the mountain's
brow had a soleran, yet picturesque effect. The mourn
ers were all very decently attired in black. On the fol
lowing day, the most of the party met at a Miaroon at the
ruins of Col. Forte's house, destroyed by the hurriGane.
A ^reat battle was foughtAvith, Cocks, the scene was Ho*
garl;h's to the very life ; the intense interest excited by it.

WEST INDIES. 25
ran linrdly he credited. On the 13th of February I paid
my prom'^sed visit to'my friend. Dr. Ifil, at bis residence
called Mangrove Lodge, near Bridge Town., The house
is oiic, ofthe few, that In a great measure escaped the de
structive fury ofthe hurricane; it is beautifully embosom
ed in trees,' round tbe house is a fine grove of lignumvitae
trees, and immediately in front, a raost raagnificent um
brageous mangrove tree, the branches of whicb, stretch
ing to the ground, have taken root, and form a beautiful
arcade round the parent tree. 1 he house Is named after
this stately and majestic tree. On tbe 19th of February
I breakfasted at Reed's Bay, between Hole Town and
Speights. 'Ibe road from Vaucluse is on a gradual de
scent to Hole Town, and from thence the road runs by
the sea shore to Reed's Bay. The ride is extremely pleas
ing, through a well cultivated district, and a melancholy
interest is imparted to It, by the vast number of trees
which the hurricane blew down and broke in every di
iection, shooting forth afresh in all the bloom and vigour
ofyouth, In all the rude and grotesque varieties of growth,
of which a tree is capable. This is raore especially ob
servable in the cocoa-nut tree, manifesting its native at
tachment to the soil, for in many instances, where it was
broken off at tbe root, some of its fibres have again struck
into the earth, forming a new tree, at tbe end of a long
lifeless trunk, making a striking contrast between lifeless-
ness and life. Tbe extreme heat ofthe day induced me
to taste, for the first time, tbe water of the green cocoa-
nut. It contains an agreeable acid, and forms a delight
ful beverage, well calculated to slake the thirst induced by
tropical heat. After breakfast we drove on to Speight's
Town, on the west coast, and a place of considerable im^
portance, and although the ride was rendered somewhat
oppressive from the dazzling whiteness of the sand upon
4

•26 WEST INDIES. -
the beach, yet it is one possessing a succession ¦ of pleas^
ing and picturesque scenery. The §ea views, the planta-
timis, and the smiling seats which adorn the neighboui-ri
bood, give an air of great cheerfulness to the scene. lo
the right, a bold range of mountains, completely inter
secting the island, forms a fine sight; and on the left, the
sea shining with a sapphire hue beneath the morning sun,
and the beach fringed with graceful cocoa-nut trees form
ing a beautiful contrast. Speight's Town is a neat and
well-built town, containing some good houses, but still
exhibiting the desolating ravages of the last dreadful hur-
«ricane. The church was a complete raass of ruins. In
the garden of Reed's Bay. I observed a beautiful cherry-
tree, a species of malpighia, covered with a handsorae
looking red fruit, which I found was unfit to eat. There
are also many fine bread fruit-trees in this neighbourhood;
they -were then- covered with fruit, which is esculent, and
answers the purpose of bread. There are some varieties
¦; of gooseberry much employed for a cooling drink in fe-
,: jrers. I saw sorae varieties of the bean growing, trailed
over lattice work, forming a beautiful vine, and produdng,
an excellent vegetable. On returning to Vaucluse^t
night J perceived something dark across the road; preseM-
ly the gig was stopped by a negro, who said the road was
not passable, that it was necessary to take a circuitous
route, for the wind whieh had been very high during the
evening, had blown his newly erected house level with
the ground,

CHAPTER III.

On the 23rd of February, Dr. Thomas took me with
him to the esplanade and handsome barracks of St. Ann's
guarded by a forraidable battery placed at one extremity
of Carlisle Bay. The parade ground is really a magnifi
cent level, consisting of several acres of land where the
troops exercise. In the erection of these barracks every
possible attention has been bestowed to render them
healthy, cool, and as comfortable as tbe chraate will per
mit. We drove on to a little sea bathing village called
Worthing, where the invalids from Bridge Town resort
for health and bathing; it is a pleasant spot. We passed
a monument erected to corameinorate the unhappy vic-
tiras of the hurricane, who perished in the barracks, and
whose remains were interred at that place. The shore of
the sea is still thickly indented with cocoa-nut trees, al
though huge prostrate trees, and imraense roots turned
up, exhibiting awful evidences of the horror ofthe storm,
are strewn with a melancholy profusion in every part, —
There is a wild grape, indigenous to the island, called the
sea grape, growing abundantly in this neighbourhood; —
tbe splendid palm, and the beautiful, though deadly,
manchinell are here In numbers, and form, by their beau
ty and variety, a great ornament to the little bathing:
place called Worthing. We returned round the Bay, over
a most miserable bridge, through a part of Bridge Town,
and drove to Dr. Cutting's to breakfast. I stopped with
Dr. Cutting sorae days; he is truly a most intelligent phy
sician, and seems as devoted to the interests of science? as
to the prosperity of Barbados. He is greatly esteemed
^by all classes ofthe people. He possesses an excellei^i

28 WEST INDIES.
museumof natural curiosities, conslsshig of great varie
ties of shells, minerals, geological specimens, diitd moss
es, fungi, insects, stuffed birds and other specimens of na
tural philosophy, together with a well selected library.—
His house may be termed a fine mansion, surrounded by.
a delightful garden, where with the greatest care aud in
dustry he has collected some choice botanical varieties,
and several beautiful English shrubs and flowers. He
has also little reservoirs of water in wbich he preserves
some fine fish. His house is rendered extremely cool, by
its spacious rooras, being well protected by a deep veran-'
dab. On the 26th of February I dined and spent the day
with Mr. Hewett at his estate called Bloomsbury, in the
iramediate vicinity of Scotland. The road winds round
the skirts of Vaucluse estate, and commands a fine pano
ramic view ofthe delightful and highly cultivated slopes
of St. George's, St. Thomas', and St.^ Michael's Parishes.
After passing round several fields I came suddenly on a
deep ravine, the descent of which was by a very narrow
and precipitous path, formed like steps; ponderous crags
alraost over canopy part of the way, tremendous masses
of broken rock hanging over itin azizzag manner, froor.
which many varieties of trees and shrubs, and flowers
were growing, turning it from the character of savage de
solation, into that^of rude, romantic beauty. Here I saw
the native bearded fig-tree, from whence Barbados de
rives its name. 'The branches of this tree hanging- pen
dent from a huge rock, and throwing out numberless small
threads or filaments which continue growing until they
reach the ground, tbey then strike root. Thus from one
branch ofthe original tree, many other trees are formed
and this is termed the beard of the fig. Xhe" rocks in
this gulley have, decidedly, a stalactitical form. This
romantic ravine, the scene of many a rendezvous, is term-

WEST INDIES. 29
ed from that circurastance Social Rock. Stupendous de
clivities, clustering groves, tangled pathways, and flow-
cry retreats surround you on every side. The iinbrokai
solitude and overawing gloom of this diversified defile,
rendered It an excellent spot for a maroon party. The
huge rock termed Social, hangs pendent from the highest
over-hanging brink, out of which several trees are grow
ing, forming a spacious canopy, an effectual screen from
the sun, and a perfect protection from rain.
In many^^of these deep gullies muffled as they are in the
luxuriant drapery of tropical shrubs and trees, and ren
dered almost inaccessible, many runaway negroes have
remained secreted for years, bafflhig and defying every
search made for them ; the militia have been compelled,
sometimes, to go out in exploring parties to ferjet them
out, an object of great danger, difficulty and exertion.
After diverging from the gully at the opposite side, passing
some trees, called the red bean tree, covered with the most
brilliant crimson flowers, the whole of Barbadian Scot
land suddenly bursts on the sight, and with the fine, bold
blue sea beyond it, lormlng a splendid coup d'oeil. The
view on each side was a perfect picture of itself, greatly
heightened and improved by the contrast ; the sweeping
and richly cultivated slopes of St. George's extending to
Bridge Town, the picturesque appearance of the distant
town with the shipping In the bay, opposed to the rude,
rocky and sylvan character of Scotiand, the lofty and the
gentie features of the scene blend harmoniously together.
I saw all tbe fine views In tbe island, but tbis appeared
to me the most interesting by far, as the bold, varied and
rugged leatures of Scotland are seen to much greater
advantage, when contrasted witb tbe soft, richly cultivated
¦ swells, and more polished country in the opposite direc
tion. The sea breezes which perpetually blow over the

30 WEST INDIES. I
island, renders the ride most agreeable, because it is gen
erally cool. The east wind is that which prevails here,
and indeed is almost the only one that blows. Happily
for the inhabitants, it brings with it a freshness tbat
enables tbem to resist the burning rays of a perpendicular
sun. The cool breezes from the east, coramence about
three o'clock in the raorning, and become stronger, as tbe
Sun approaches the zenith. This phenomenon is doubt
less attributable to the action ofthe sun on the atmosphere,
the rarefication of which: by that planet in its course from
east to west, occasions a current of air in the same direc
tion. The sun set of this evening was exquisite, the
tops of the raountain, seen from the valley, seeraed tinged
with a pale crimson, while the distant sea, seen through
the vista, in the hour of its reposing beauty, and hushed
in the calm of the evening, appeared gleaming like "a sea
of jasper strewn with celestial roses." I never beheld a
grander spectacle.
Feihruary 27th, breakfasted with the Hon. N. Forie,
the Speaker of the House of Assembly, at his house on
Bennett's estate, the ride to which embraces a view ofthe
sea the entire distance. It is a very charming residence,
adrairably adapted for the cUmate ; a beautiful avenue of
trees has been recently planted along the road leading to
the house. On the 28th I again passed the day at Reed's
Bay, and returned by moonlight along the coast. ''Phere
is in all countries a charm in the chaste and subdued light
of a moonlight scene, but it is more pecuharly fascinating
in a tropical cliraate, its soft silvery hues contrasted with
the dark foliage of the paira and cocoa nut trees and
shedding a silvery lustre over a beautiful expanse of sea
renders it doubly attractive. It seemed as if on this
evening

WEST INDIES. 31
from opening clouds, I saw emerge
The loveliest moon that ever silvered o'er,
A shell for Neptune's goblet.
It is certainly dangerous in Europeans to expose them
selves incautiously at moonlight, from the very heavy
dews which take place, but although imprudent, it is
alraost irresistible, it imparts such a grateful coolness to
the system, and steals over the senses, after enduring the
scorching rays ofa vertical sun. The ruins of Hole Town
exhibited a very curious picture by moonlight — broken
rafters — heaps of stones — walls partly standing, resem
bling rocks — stumps and limbs of trees — new houses-
houses in progress of erection —and as the moonbearas
fell, imparting every variety of light and shade, the effect
was romantic and picturesque.
«'How beautiful this Night ! the balmest sigh
Which vernal zephyrs breathe in Evening's ear,
Were discord to the speaking quietude
That wraps this moveless scene. Heaven's ebon vaults
Studded with Stars unutterably bright,
Through which the Moon's unclouded grandeur rolls,
Seems like a canopy which Love had spread.
To curtain her sleeping world. Yon gentle hills,
Kobed in i garment of untrodden snow ;
Yon darksome walls, whence icicles depend
So stainless, that their white and glittering spears
Tinge not the Moon's pure beam ; yon castled steep
Whose banner hangeth o'er the time-worn tower
So idly, that wrapt Fancy deemeth it
A metaphor of Peace — all form a scene
Where musing Solitude might love to lifl
Her soul above this sphere of earthliness ;
Where Silence undisturbed might watch alone,
So cold, so bright, so still."
Went round to Col. Forte's house: he is a well informed
and most hospitable man, precisely the character fitted for
a Speaker of a public Assembly, possessing great patience,
liberality, impartiality, knowledge, united with a most

32 WEST INDIES.
courteous deportment. He is so |,devofcdly attnched to
Barbados, that he has never quitted tho island, even for a
day, and frora his long residence arid general intelligence,
he has acquired a practical knowledge ofthe Coloriy. and
possesses an intimate acquaintance witii its wants, its
interests, and its inhabitants : he has always so dischart^cd
his duty, as to have secured to him the lasting esteem,
confidence and regard of all parties in the island.
On March 1st, I rode with Dr. Ifiil to an eminence
called Irish Town, it exhibits a very powerl'u! resemblance
to tbc Devils Punch Bowl on the Portsmouth road ; there
is a very fine panoramic view of Scotland from this point.
I saw the wild sugar canes growing here in great abund
ance : they are a species of reed and are bf'great utility in
roofing houses. On the 3rd, I went to see another negro
dance. It is certainly a spectacle in which you can trace
a great deal ofthe negro character. The extreme accur
acy with which they preserve the tirae in the dance — their
intense devotion to music— tbeir extraordinary vehemence
— the violence oftheir gesticulations, are eminently char
acteristic. They display a great fondness for dress, and
come to the dance with a profusion of ornaments and
trinkets, which you might look for in vain amongst the
labourers of any other countries. They possess a great
deal of cunning, seizing every opportunity, when they
think they are unobserved, to weary you with their un
ceasing importunity for money. They invariably make
a collection for the president of their feast, who provides
cake, wine, noyeau, and otber refreshments : they cer
tainly enjoy their dances in the fullest spirit of enjoyment.
On the 4th of March I accompanied a party to visit one
ofthe greatest natural curiosities in the Island, a deep and
extensive cavern, termed Cole's Cave. Ii is situated in
the parish of St, Thomas. The entrance to it^ is on the

WEST INDIES. 33
side of a steep hill, Upon an estate called Walk's. Tbe
great abundance of rock here is very remarkable ; tbe
roads are carried through deep ravines, and the sides of
the rocks being embellished with stalactitical columns,
renders their appearance very singular and striking. Amid
the crags of the rocks, trees are constantly jutting out :
and the beauty and profusion of the wild flowers aston
ishing. The entrance to the ravern is difficuh, being
very precipitous and rugged. We were escorted by two
•guides, who took good care to be well furnished with
lights. The huge rock, forming the canopy to the en
trance of the cavern, has a similar appearance to Thorpe
Cloud in Dove Dale, Derbyshire. At a 'short distance
from the entrance to the cave, you arrive at a spring of
water, boldly gushing from tbe rock, and continues
throughout its subterranean couise, forming large pools
of water, sufficiently spacious to enjoy the pleasure of
bathing. The stream issues through a sinuous and devi
ous course, until, as it is supposed, it disembogues itself
into the Indian River near Bridge Town. Amongst the
several reasons adduced In favor of this suppo'sltion, one
is very cogent, that when all the pools and streams ofthe
Island have been dried up in an excessive drought,, this
river has had its usual full supply of water. The en
trance to the cave Is narrow, and requires caution from
the number of large stones. It soon however opens to a
very considerable height : In many parts of the cavern,
the water perpetually dropping and issuing through the
rock, forras numlaerless beantifiil petrifactions or stalac
tites, resembhng, in their gothic, spiral forms, the roef* of
a richly carved cathedral. The route of the cavern is'by
the water, climbing from crag to crag, tbe rocks forming
a steep bank to this subterranean river, but the exertion
required in a close cavern, renders an extended survey
5

S^ WEST INDIES.
difficult and fatiguing. On quitting the cave the whole
mass of rock, looking at it from below, is seen to the
greatest advantage, for although steep, rugged, and une
qual, it is covered in every part, with beautiful parasitical
plants hanging pendent in all directions. The entrance
to the cavern is at the bottom of one of those deep and
romantic ravines, which intersect the island throughout.
¦After pursuing your way in the cavern about three hun
dred yards, it divides into two courees, one, which is
terraed the dry cavern, being without water ; the other,
having a torrent of water always rushing through it, being
abundantiy supplied with springs. It is said that a party
of gentlemen, who went to visit this cavern, falling over
some of the large disjointed stones, their lights becarae
extinguished, and after groping about in worse than Cim-
tnerian darkness ibr a length of time, took the wrong
direction, and passed into the dry cavern, from whence
they issued, after being severely bruised and scratched by
crawling about, and much exhausted, at a considerable
distance from the entrance to the cavern, and in a differ
ent ravine:
On the 8th of March I accorapanied Dr. Ifill to his
estate, Haggarts, in Scotland ; the ride to it is extremely
pleasing, varied and roraantic. It is a continued succes
sion of hill and dale, with a bold sea view to grace the
distance. I called on Dr. Harper, in company with Dr.
Ifill ; he is an excellent botanist, and accompanied us in
a ride over the hills immediately fronting the sea, and
pointed out many beautiful botanical varieties. The views
fi?om these lofty hills are extremely magnificent, blending
in the most delightful variety every degree of hill, dale
meandering stream, beautiful woods and bold sea. On
the summits of these hills, my attention was forcibly di
rected to an imraense quantity of f^uit growing on a thick

WEST INDIES. 55
bush, it resembled, in its appearance, the Qriean plum,
having the same rich, purple bloom, but unlike that deli
cious fruit, its taste is very insipid — it is termed the fat
pork fruit. I again dined at the Mess House, with the
officers ofthe St. Andrew's Regiraent, and received from
thera the same warm hospitality I had raet with on a pre
ceding occasion. On the 9th, I accompanied Dr. Ifill to
his estate, Harrisons, in tbe parish of St. Lucy's. We
passed over several deep streams of water in Scotland,
rushing with great impetuosity, the currents having been
much swollen by heavy rains. On an estate, called Cle-
land's, near to the Scotland signal post, is a most mag
nificent avenue of cabbage trees, which, from tbeir lofty
situation, and stately form, presents a striking and majes
tic appearance — "the finest display of these tufted princes
ofthe vegetable kingdora, these living Corinthian columns
that could be found any where in the Antilles." On
passing over this hill, all traces of Scotiand are lost, and
the rich champaign country of St. Lucy's, with the sea
ofthe northern coast ofthe island, are seen to great ad
vantage.

CHAPTER IV,

St. Lucy's appears to be a well cultivated parish, pos
sessing a very fertile soil, and containing several fine
houses. We passed many fields of sour grass, of excellent
growth, and then ready for the scythe. Froni this grass
hay can be made three or four times a yeav^ijfxeqtih'es
but one day to raake the hay when the grass ^I'ea'qy, and

36 , WEST INDIES.
two or three good rains cause a crop; I did not observe
it growing in any other part of the island, with the excep
tion of St. Philip's parish, and at Sir Charles Smith's, K.
E., who had a large stack of hay from his cultivation of
it. I suppose that the cane is too valuable a crop to per
mit its being superseded by any other. On the 10th, I
went to survey the north point of the island, called the
Great Head, from whence ships homeward boil nd take
their departure. It is an iron bound coast, the sea very
deep, , and the rocks extremely precipitous and rugged.
There are iraraense quantities of fish close in the shore,
and nurabers of racoons and monkies infest the gullies.
Dr. Ifill had kindly invited Dr. Bishop — another of my
fellow students from the Borough hospitals — a young
man of great promise, from his extensive acquirementsj
and indefatigable perseverance, (and whose death, sincel
left the island, raust be a source of deep regret to his nu
merous friends)— to accompany lis to the animal flower
cave. On reaching the very verge ofthe land, 1 was quite
astonished, and soraewhat alarraed on being told, that it
was the entrance to the cavern, the cavern itself being a
deep vault underneath, so that in reality the only road,
or path to the entrance, is nothing raore than a descent,
down a steep, perpendicular rock, hanging over- a sea,
twenty fathoms deep, and into which, one false step must
inevitably plunge the adventurous visitor. The actual
entrance to this romantic cavern is on the side ofthis steep
rock, but having determined to gratify my curiosity, had
the rock been as steep as Olympus, and the cavern dark
as Erebus, I would not have beeii deterred frora my pur
pose. I cannot help admitting that I felt some degree of
apprehension, when Ifound the rocks on which I was
corapelled to hang, to effect my descent, were sharp and
pointed, ana bverhanging a deep, roaring, tempestuous

WEST INDIES. 37
sea, the spray bf which alraost touched my feet, as I per
formed the perilous undertaking. On entering the first
cavern, my attention was arrested by a deep, large natu
ral basin, in the centre of which was a huge stone, resem
bling a round of beef; It was honored whh the appellation
in consequence of the similitude. In tbis cavern are sev
eral large pools of water, in which it is customary for the
visitors to bathe. On emerging from it to proceed to the
second and larger cave, the route is over a rock still more
precipitous and rugged than the former ; it is termed the
horses back, the centre part being rounded, the footlng.Is
secured by the sharp terminating points of the rock. In
tbis cavern there is a large basin of water, presenting a
most beautiful appearance. Tbe floor appears In a rich
variety of colors, resembling a Turkey carpet, arising from
tbe crypty-gamous plant, with which these rocks abound.
It is in this cavern, where the animal flower grows so
lovely, and exquisitely pencilled, and greatly similar to
the passion flower, I think it is a species ofthe gorgonia.
Tbere can be no question that it is a zoophyte. Captain
Alexander thus speaks of it : "There is a rock with beau-
tliiil varieties attached to it, of that remarkable zoophyte,
the hydra — they appear like petals of the marigold, of
purple, yellow, and green colours, to attract the insect
prey, but when touched, they contract and become invisi
ble. This remarkable production forms the connecting
link between the animal and vegetable kingdoms of that
extraordinary gradation, or chain of beings proceeding
frora the rudest unorganized raatter up to raan." With
some winds, the water of the sea rolls with reSistiess fury
into these caverns, and a person bathing In one of their
natural basins might be swept out, unless tliey were cau
tious.- The sea beneath is very deep, large sharks coming
immediately below the cavern. March 16th, rode to tliQ

38 WEST INDIES.
signal post in St. George's Parish, called Gun hill. The
road from Vaucluse estate to St. George's is through a
deep ravine. Vaucluse received its name from its present
proprietor having seen it, the first time, from this glen ;
and being then in a very bad state of health, and looking
forward to it, as a retreat, frora its beautiful and salubri
ous situation, environed with hills and embosomed in
trees ; he thought it no inappropriate cognomen, to give
it the name of Petrarch's favorite retreat. The country
here is deemed the most rich and fertile in the island, it
consists altogether of undulating slopes, covjered with
canes, corn, and sweet potatoes. Every patch of land is
carefully cultivated, and its returns are most extraordi
nary. On the 17th went down very early in the morning
to Hole Town to bathe ; saw a very curious fish called
the Ink fish, which, on striking it with a whip, threw out
a jet of black fluid greatly reserabling ink, it discolored
the water considerably. It would seem to be' an instinc
tive method of self defence, as by darkening the water it
eludes its pursuer, and effects its escape. There is a great
quantity of fish caught on this coast, the grouper, the
snapper, tbe rock hind, the kingfish, the sweet lip, the
Spanish mackarel, the progey, the grivilli, ^c. &c.
On the 1 8th I was afforded an excellent opportunity of
witnessing the spectacle ofa negro funeral. On reaching
tbe house, I observed several long forras covered with'
mourners, all most decently and respectably- clad in black.
Many feraales were also assembled in black crape dresses
with black bonnets and veils. Groups of negroes contin
ued arriving for an hour; at length a large party having
congregated, they formed themselves into a procession.
They had an abundance of fruit, take, wine and refresh
ments. The hearse, a sort of funeral car, drawn by a
black horse, containing thecoflfin, which was covered with

WEST INDIES. 39
small ornaraents, and surmounted by a large pall, went
first ; then the mourners followed, forming a parade) two
by two, carrying umbrellas, and extending a long dis-^
tance : the procession was closed by two mourners on
horseback. The wbole appearance was decent and res
pectable, and resembled more the funeral of a wealthy
tradesman, than a slave. There Is no characteristic more
strongly marked in the negro than their superstitious ven
eration for the dead, and it is impossible to pay thera a
higher compliment, or please tbera more, than by attend
ing the funeral of any oftheir deceased relatives or friends.
They raanifest a great desire to have their friends buried
in the sarae church-yard with their white brethren, and
are very grateful in obtaining that permission.
On the 20th went to dine with Mr. Thomas, who man
ages many estates in tbe island, at an estate called
Strachan'sin Barbadian Scotland. The property be
longs to Mr. Caldecott: —tbe bouse presents only the ap
pearance ofa heap of ruins; it stood in a very delightful
situation. A lofty hill immediately at the back, screening
it from the scorching beams ofthe raorning sun : below
it a very deep, precipitous, and most romantic glen, at
the bottom of which the Scotiand river meanders over a
bed of huge stones; whilst imraediately opposite, a large
wood, extending from, the suramit of a raountain down ta
the very edge of the river, clothed with every variety ot
beautiful trees, —the raararaoe-apple^-the clam cherry —
the bay tree,— the cabbage palm — the locust— the bullet —
the cedar — the mahogany — and the rich and magnificent
silk cotton-tree. Throughout the wood, the vine of the
water lemon hangs pendent from the trees in every di
rection, adorned with the most lovely flowers, and bear
ing a delicious and cooling fruit. The side view is vesyj
rich, varied, and extensive, the distant blue sea with its

40 WEST INDIES.
beautiful white spray dashing on the beach, seen through
the vista ofa bold range of hills— the winding Scotiand
river terminating in a lagoon near the'sea, renders it a ve
ry picturesque scene. On this estate are several > tar
springs which I examined; there are several poAls made
to contain water In those parts where this bituminous ex
udation issues from the earth: the green naptha riises to
the surface, and Is skimmed off to be preserved in jars
for exportation. On this property alone upwards of five
hundred gallons of naptha is collected annually, and forms
an article of great value. Tbere are also many fine beds
of pines growing in this neighbourhood ; the red argilla
ceous earth of Scotland seems particularly adapted for
their growth and cultivation Tbe scite invariably se
lected for a pine plantation is a western aspect, on tbe
side of a bill, in order that tbey may receive the benefit
of the afternoon sun. They have a beautiful appearance,
and arp greatiy. esteemed for tbeir exquisite flavour. 'J he
activity of tbe negro is truly astonishing : I beheld a re
markable instance of it this day. Mr. Thoraas had oc
casion to send a negro boy to Bridge Town, a distance
of twelve miles from this estate, and a very hilly and fa-''
tiguing country to travel. 'Ihe day vt'as intensely hot,
without a breath of air. The lad started a little before
eight o'clock in the morning, and to my great astonish
ment, returned a little after two in the afternoon, with his'
tray on his head, and seemed so regardless of his journev'
as afterwards to wait at dinner, and actually volunteered'
to take a note to a neighboring estate, three miles distant,
during the afternoon. I rode back in the evening over
Mount Hellaby, which is the highest land in the island,
about 1 200 feet above the level of the sea ; but although
the View is very comraanding and extensive, erabracing a
rich variety of land and water scenery: it is not equal to

WEST INDIES. 41
that from Hackleston's. Cliff and several other places in
the island. From the appearance of raany parts of Scot
land, Dr. Maycock entertains the opinion, that it Is the
crater of an extinguished volcano. On the 22nd, whilst
at Hole Town, enjoying ray morning's bathe, a haul of
fish was drawn up, amongst them one called Chiibb, ofthe
most splendid color. The head and tail have the yellow,
blue, scarlet, and green beautifully intermingled, like the
plumage ofa parrot. It is not much esteemed for'eating.
On tbe 23d of March, Mr. Martindale, a gentieman of
great respectability, at whose house I had breakfasted,
was obliging enough to take me with hira to see the vari
ous objects of interest and curiosity to be seen at Bridge
Town. It extends, at least, two railes round Cariislebay.
and is about half a mile In depth, containing upwards of
20,000 inhabitants. In the centre there is a square with
9 statute of the illustrious Nelson. Tbe first place which
I visited was the new Gothic Chapel of St. Paul's, then
in progress. of erection, completed I should suppose long
ere this. The architecture is of the purest Gothic, and
reflects great honor on the builder. It promises to be,
when finished, an elegant, light, commodious, and beauti
ful chapel. It is raost adrairably constructed for full ven
tilation, and will accommodate, with convenience, a thou
sand persons. I should suppose that it is intended to be
surmounted and ornamented with a cross, in conformity
with the fashion, lately- introduced in England, in the
erection of the new churches and chapels belonging to the
establishment. I went from St. Paul's to see a large
Watering-Place in the Bay, belonging to Mr. Martindale,
and which has been in the possession of his faraily f6r
many years. It consists of two very coramodious reser
voirs, supplied by au excellent spring, yielding abundance
of water, of a very superior quality. It supplies all the
6

42 WEST INDIES.
shipping in Carlisle Bay with fresh water, and a spot more
conveniently adapted for that purpose could nothave
been selected. The long trough, used for the purpose of
conveying tbe water Into the ships, leads from the main
reservoir, which is built whh stone, it is conveyed by
means of a large pipe into this reservoir, frora tbe one
which receives the water, as it exudes from the
spring. The water is carried into this trough by the aid
of a windmill, which, when set in motion, draws it up,
and altogether supersedes the necessity of pumping and
manual labor in supplying the various ships. Indeed tbis
method of drawing up water is of general use in the
island, even for the purpose of sugar making, distillation,
bathing, &c. &c. I next proceeded to visit the Alms
House, a quadranglar range of buildings, erected and
•supported by the benevolent gentlemen of Bridge Town-,
for the purpose of succojiring and sheltering the poor,
indigent, aged, and disabled white inhabitants, who have
no means of maintaining themselves. Seamen, thrown
out of employment, or who have been maltreated,also find
here a most comfortable asylum. There were thirty-five
poor individuals receiving the benefits of this great charity^
there are sometimes between fifty and sixty. They are
provided with foodj shelter and clothing, and a raedical
gentleman is in ready attendance. It is altogether a most
honorable and highly creditable institution to the gentle
men df Barbados, who contribute very cheerfully, £2,000
per annum to support it. Immediately contiguous is a
lunatic E^sylum, also upheld by voluntary contributions^
ahd under the same surveillance and superintendance as
the alms houses ; there were 'but three cases in it^ . One,
a case of melancholy madness, a white woman about forty,
her countenance was very mild and rather pleasing. She
was perfectly harmless, her aberration was principally dis-

WEST INDIES. 43
playiod by her rehgious visions, phantoms, and dreams.
At one tirae she was inspired — a prophetess. — then an
angel— alternately filled with hope, and plunged in des
pair. Her head was much elevated at tbe raiddle lateral
parts ofthe coronal suture. The posterior portion of the
head was small. Another female, a raulatto woman, a
coraplete fury,: breathing hatred, vengeance, and destruc
tion against every one, presented a far different configurar'
tion, being very broad above the ears, with a low, retiring
forehead, She was in a violent paroxysm, v\^hen I saw
her, and was obliged to be placed under restraint. The
third case was that of a white man, apparewly about fifty,
very morose, ill tempered, and taciturn, but in no respect
dangerous. He possessed great mechanical powers, con
stantly sketching on tbe walls of his cell, architectural
.designs — churches, bridges, mills, &c. His forehead was
well developed— the lateral portion ofthe head full — the
eyebrows lofty and prominent. Near to this asylum
there were growing four beautiful trees, in the, highest
perfection, called the May-pole Aloe. The trunk is ofthe
most delightful green, and although straight and tapering,
seems divided into regular scales. They somewhat re
semble a branched candlestick ; the branches have a graccr
ful curvature, coiling round in serpentine folds, and sur
mounted by a richly tufted yellow flower of a spiral form.
They are upwards of twenty feet in height, ; the Botani
cal narae is the Agave Americana. I visited the national
schools next, whieh are conducted here in a very superior
manner. The whole ofthe arrangements are admirable,
every attention is paid to the improvement and moral
culture of the children, whose deeent, healthy, and cheer
ful appearance, respectful demeanor, and becoming de
portment, are alike testimonies equally honorable to the
supporters of this interesting establishment, as to those

44 WEST INDIES.
who participate in its benefits. 'J here are now receiving
instruction in these schools, 218 children — 127 boys — 91
girls — all of thera are fed during the day, 86 are. boarded
and live altogether within the walls. Their school rooms,
dormitories and galleries are cool and spacious, and arc
inspected by a committee, in whose hands the whole ar
rangement of the establishment are placed, so eminently
deserving the attention of the true friends of this ancient
and most loyal Colony, as its ultimate safety, happiness,
and prosperity will in a great degree depend on the now
rising .generation. Their present gratifying appearance
and condition holds out a happy prospect and bright au
gury for the future. The year's expenditure frora March
1831, to March 1832, was £1838 7 6.
In Bridge Town there are soup rooras, supported by
charitable individuals. Soup tickets are distributed td
poor and necessitous persons, who, on presenting themj
are supplied with it gratuitously. The cathedral of St:
Michaels is a fine, large building— the roof is a magnifi
cent piece of architecture, unsupported by ahy pillar.
Tbe chancel, with the Bishop's throne, forms a very hand
some termination. The galleries are spacious ; immedi
ately beneath them, and surrounding the interior of tbe
church, are a great variety of monuments, brought at
different times from England, some beautifully finished,
and iine specimens of sculpture. Previous to the hurrir-
cane of 1780, this church bad a lofty spire,' on the summit
of which was placed a huge brass figure of S(. Michael,
the archangel with a trumpet at his mouth. Both from
its great elevation and colour, it formed a conspicuous
land mark, and was seen raany miles distant at sea, raore
especially when illuniinated by tbe reflection of the sun.
It has not received a place on the present tower, a raore
secure position than the former spire. St. Mary's church

WEST INDIES. 45
is also a fine and spacious building. The Jews have erectr
ed a very handsome Synagogue ,' it was opened with
great 'solemity and porap during my temporary residence
at Barbados — the fashion of the island attended on the
occasion. It was a fine spectacle.
'1 he next place I went to see was the gaol, a large
building, with a spacious courtaround it, and surrounded
by a wall. One half of tbe building is appropriated- for
holding thecourt of Grand Session — rooms for the grand
and petit jury — his Majesty's council chamber-^and the
general assembly : the other half Is used as a prison,
.where debtors, convicted felons, and prisoners waiting
for trial are all confined. 1 saw the negro, Robert Jamesj
in confineraent, whose outrage on a white female had
excited such an intense feeling. Nothing could exceed
the excitement introduced by tbe President's reml-ssion of
the extreme penalty of the law ; the people were almost
provoked to follow tbe example of Edinburgh at the exe
cution of Porteous. The man had attempted to make
his escape : he was then heavily ironed, and appeared a
desperate and abandoned criminal. The inhabitants cA'
Bridge Town bave erected a solid, handsome pier of con
siderable elegance and strength : it is frequented as a
promenade, and secured from heavy seas by a large break
water ; it proved of much utility to Bridge Town during
the last frightful hurricane, and was supposed to have
saved several bouses from entire destruction. On the
wharf, imraediately fronting the pier, and In a situation
well selected to commuiicate witb the signal post at High-
gate, are tbe Commercial rooms, supported by the merch
ants oC Bridge Town, for their mutual accommodation.
Books are kept containing an account of every ¦ arrival
and departurej and indeed of every thing relative to the
shipping and commercial inti&rests. Files ofthe Colonial|

46 WEST INDIES.
English, Scotch, and Irish newspapers are also preserved.
There are two very excellent literary institutions in this
town, both possessing very superior libraries, as a refer
ence to the catalogue will testify. The subscribers are
extremely kind in giving permission to the visitors to the
island, to have free access to their books, charts, ^c. -Jc.
They can smile at the contemptuous sneer of Mr. Cole^
ridge — it deserves no other notice. Mr. Southwell, whose
theatre was destroyed in the storm, has just completed
another very large and spacious building — it was opened
for public arauseraent, and seemed likely to succeed.
Neither the Government House, nor the King's House,
are reraarkable — they can only be considered good, cora
modious buildings. The Bishop of Barbados possesses a
most delightful residence^ called Pilgrim's, beautifully
surrounded by trees ; here, as in many other gardens in
the island, are to be seen the scarlet cordia, the crimson
hibiscus, the red and orange flower fence, (Pointziana
pulcherrima, or Barbados Pride,) the pluraeria, the white
datura, and whiter ainaryllis, the heliotrope, intermixed
with beautiful varieties of the mimosa : His situation is
very cool, and commands a splendid sea view.

CHAPTER V.

On Good-Friday, April 5th, I attended the service at
the new Moravian Church, lately erected in the parish
of St. Thomas, and which had been only opened for
worship on the preceding Sunday. The chapel* is an

WEST INDIES. 47
octagonal building, and has a very neat and imposing ap
pearance: a row of young cabbage trees, areca oleracea,
were just planted, and will form a fine avenue when they
attain their growth. It is capable of containing one
thousand persons. There were a vast nuraber of negroes
present, who seemed to pay great attention, and joinedin
the exercises of devotion with much apparent feeling of
piety. The service consists, principally, in singing
hymns, a very acceptable mode of worship to the negroes
who are so passionately fond of music; — but between the
singing portions of the service they have prayers, preach
ing and reading. The Moravians have also a large school
for tbe iustruction of coloured children, and they labous
in their vocation most meritoriously. There is likewise
another establishment in the parish of St. John, Their
teachers are greatly esteemed for tbeir unostentatious me
rits, and as they inculcate most strongly the necessity of
industrious habits and virtuous principles, and the merits
of good works,they prove useful and admirable instructors
ofthe negro race. On the 7th, I went to Hole Town to
bathe and breakfast on fish. There was a fine haul
drawn up; nothing can exceed the beautiful variegated
colours of the scales of these fish. I remarked one in
particular, ofthe size and form ofthe sole, of the most
brilliant purple colour. The chubbs presented a great
variety of hues, scarlet, green, red and blue, all brilHant
and vivid. In the ornithology of this island tbe variety
is not gr^at; the graceful huraraing bird, the cooing dove,
and the chirping blackbird, are the chief. In the month
of August, innumerable flocks of cranes, alcatrazes, fla
mingos, snipes, plovers, wild ducks, and gallaceta, resort
to the swampy parts of the island. Tents or boxes are
erecteojl for the sportsmen, who enjoy abundance of sport
without fatigue.

48- WEST INDIES.
In and about Hole Town,-;-at Boscobel — In Scotland^
and in raany parts to the leeward of the island, numbers!
of poor white inhabitants reside, objects of the raillery and
vituperation of those flippant writers, who have adopted
the opinions of others, rather than take the trouble of
making an investigation themselves. Mr. Coleridge has
thought fit to speak of these persons in tbe following
manner. "In consequence of tbe large white population
in Barbados, there exists a class of people wbich I did
not raeet with in any other ofthe islands. By the laws
ofthe colony every estate is obliged to raaintain a certain
nuraber of whites in proportion to its extent. These men
are called the tenantry, and have an indefeasible interest
for their lives in a house and garden upon the respective^
plantations. They owe no fealty to the landlord; raake
him no acknowledgment, and entertain no kind of grati-.
tude towards him. The railitia is principally composed
of these persons, and with the exception of tbat service,.
the greater part of them live in a state of idleness, and are
usually ignorant and debauched to the last degree. They
will, often walk half over the island to demand alms, and
ifyou question them about their mode of life and. habits
of daily labour, they stare in your face as if they, were ac
tually unable to comprehend the meaning of your .dis
course. 'The woraen who will work at all, find employ
ment >in washing and mending the clothes of the negroes,
and it is notorious tbat in many cases whole families of
these free whites depend for their subsistence on the char
ity of the slaves. Yet they, are as proud as Ludfer hiraT
self, .and in virtiie of their freckled ditchwater face's con
sider theraselves on a level with every gentlemen in. their
island." ,Itis certainly, possible that such a description
may be borne out in some cases, but havingvisited in ev
ery part of the island for four months, taking the utmost

WEST INDIES. 4a
pains to make rayself throughly acquain-ted with it, in its
features, fertility, but also in its social condition. I am
constrained to say that I think Mr. Coleridge's stateraent
is an exaggerated, overdrawn and unfaithful representa
tion. As far as came within my personal observation, I
found them, in ludtisirioiis habits, respectful demjeauor,
becoming attire, and sobriety, fuily equal to ai*y white
tnen, in the same rank and station of life. In all their
halulations, and patches of laud which they cultivate, he
might have discovered the effect of industrious aud well
regulated inhabitants. Aad it is a matter of great aston
ishment that they are enabled to work under a vef^tical
sun, the thermometer frequently standing at 909 in the
shade, and manage to cultivate their ground and raise
ginger, arrow root, cotton, aloes, and cassava : breeding
poultry, and produce stock for sale. This iudiserirainate
censure does not appear to me at all becoming in Mr.
Coleridge, and I think that he might have instit}i»ted a
naore thorough investigation than he appears to have done,
before hazarding such censorious observations,,. On thfe
8th I visited another remarkable cavern, called Harrison's,
the entrance is in a deep ravine not far from Ellis's; estate,
Lyon Castle ; it is three yards in breadth, but very low*
At a little distance from the entrance it becomes higher,
and presents a lofty and beautiful appearance. It has also
a stream of water rolling through it, and some capacious
and deep pools : the stalactites are aa large and thiek as
the trunk of a full grown oak, hanging pendent from the
roof. Some large and aged stalactites were stre\vn abc^Ut
the cave, having fallen from their great size and v?;€^ght,;
in other places they were as ytjt in embryo, ai^d in eWPse
of growth and forraation. On the IQth 1 aeconipaHied
Dr. Ifill to visit another of the great natural curiosities of
Barbados, called the burning spring. This spring, which
7

5& WEST INDIES.
is constantly emitting a quantity of hydrogen gas, is situ
ated in the picturesque and charming district of Barba
dian Scotiand. It is in a deep and sequestered glen of
great natural beauty, the sides of which, to the summit
of a lofty hill, are covered, with trees of the most luxu-
riant growth and foliage, forming a wood of a secluded,
romantic and sombre appearance. By pouring a quantity
of water Into the pool, from whence the gas is evolved,
and passing a lighted torch over the surface, a brilliant
illuraination is immediately produced aifid continues some
time. Gas migbt be collected in close stopper bottles, in
any quantity, from tbis pool. The delightful wood, call
ed Turner's Hall wood, is part of the aboriginal forest ;
itis the largest in the island; the beautiful sharp pointed
Spanish needle, the Bidens pilosa, the graceful vine of
the water leraon, the long rolls of the quilled piraploe>3
pimploe, the cactus tuna, blending with the other tropical
trees, renders this wood a very Interesting spot. It pos-
.sesses all the attraction of the Scotland Scenery, and is
in the iramediate neighbourhood of the Naptha springs,
pineries, and otber beauties of this romantic region. On.
the 12th I went to visit Codrington College, by way of
Austin's, a very sraall village, I believe in the parish of St.
Philip ; nothing can exceed the degree of attention paid
to the comfort and health of the students, than in the site
and erection of this, noble building. From tbe indefati
gable attention .of the present worthy principal, the insti
tution affords the invaluable blessing of superior eduean
tion to twenty-three students. Surrounded by lofty hillsj
shaded by fine trees, with a clear running stream, forming^
a small lake in front, with an unbounded view of tbe
Western Ocean, whose delightful breezes ever blowing
health and iraparting coolness ; the situation is the most
salubrious and proper that could have been selected.

West indies. 31
Abundance of sea eggs are caught on this coast^ they' are
a delicious food, and this parish Is celebrated by the
affecting incident of Inkle and Yarico. Mr. Madden, I
am inclined to think, spoke of Barbadoes scenery as
uninteresting, without having seen it. ' ¦'*
Curiosity induced me to visit a place called Boscobel,
named after the place of refuge of King Charles, by some
of those families, who left England to escape the murder
ous fury of tbe regicides of that period. The civil war in
England, during the reign of Charles I. caused many peo
ple of peaceable tempers arid dispositions to take refuge
in Barbados^ and the consequent ruin of tbe King's affairs
induced a still greater number, many of whom had been
officers of rank In his service, to follow their example.
The emigration from England to this island was indeed
so great tbat In 1650, it was computed there were 20,000
Englishraen fled to Barbados. Jt was not surprising tbat
a spot deeraed so sacred, by the noble Cavaliers of that
day, should be a favorite name, apd from that circum^
stance I attribute its being given to this rude and romantic
place. The scenery is extremely wild, commanding- an
extensive sea view, rude rocks. Intersected by awfully
deep gullies, abounding in every direction. In one of
these is a spacious basin, into which a stream of spring
water is continually running, forming a comfortable and
well sheltered place for bathing. Many poor white fani^
ilies live in this neighborhood. I rode to the summit ol
Bissix Hill, with Col. Rogers— from this spot there is a
most splendid and extensive view ; the house, blown down
in the hurricane, lay a mass of disjointed stones. In tbe
parish of St. Joseph, on Mr. Higginson's estate, a steara
engine is employed in the manufacture of sugar, a river
called Joe's river, runs through the sugar house, affordiiig
arconstant supply of water. The view from Sugar- Hill

52 WEST INDIES.
im this vicinKy is also very magnificent. I accompanied
Col. Rogers to his estate, called Pai4's, in St. Joseph's
Parish— the soil here is unoowi monly rich and prolifi.c, and
his pl?mtatiom vvell wortiiy of insiveCtion. Ii e has i.n one
field, five living springs ¦of most excellent water. T*iere
is also at the back and I'ourad the house, a beautiful
plarjtatoln, of that cbari»ng tree, the pJaMtain, the
-miles fruit of which is delicious. In a drcialt of a few
in this vicinity, ali the beauties of the tropics may
be witnessed, the fustic tree, lignura-vitae, the cocoa -nut
tree, the cabbage pakn, tbe fiddle wmtd, the white jessa-
niin, the silk cotton tree, ohe sand box tree, the bully tree,
the v&rillaj the quassia;, the oreeping granadilto, the ota-
heitan goosdberffy, the hanging water leraon tree, the tatn^
arind, tiie sweet SHielling acacia, the pomegranatie, the
stately atee, the light colored cane, the guinea grasp patch,
the mangi'ove^ and the graceful and waving baraboo.
The dolichos pruriens, whose hairy substance is so cele
brated as a v^-mifuge, grov(?is inidigenausiy in this kland,
and it is related, as having, proved so great annoyance to
the negroes in reaping the canes, that instances have oc
curred in iwhich they have destroyed the (orop rather t'ha«
take It i<n, in consequence of the sudferaaaig inflicted fey this
vegetable tormentor.
Perhaps in the globe there is not another spot so wetl
cultlvateidaBd so astonishingly fertile as the island of Bap-"
^dos. Its priaelpal production is, of course, the sugnr
/Cafie, but the planters grow yams, gulaea com,indiaii
^orn, eddoes, sweet potatoes, and various sons of peas.
In addition to feeding its inhabitants, a great quantity of
yams and poultry are raised and sent to the Leeward
I#land^ : the negroes, on their own grounds, cultivate ar
row root, ginger, cotton, and aloes, for exportation ; and
tfte.aon.»al quantity of sugar made is about :^,000 bhda

west, indies. 53
The population consists of abotat 120,OC0, of which num
ber tbere are about 4X^,000 whites and free ooloiied. Hav
ing had such an excellent opportunity of witnessing the
management of an estate, being more or less at Vaucluse,
during four months, visiting it at all times and under all
circumstances, as I pleased, and by rayself; moreover it
having been during the period of makiHg the sugar, I
thiidk I naay as safely speak of the subject of slave labor,
as those who have only read accounts of it, in the rooms
of the iantl-slavery society, A Idenm anbury.
This fine estate consists of nearly six hundred acres-,
and for its cultivation there were more than 300
negiToes : 4 maso*is, 3 carpenters, 3 coopers, 4 doraesti<s,
3 male aud 2 ifemale superintendents ofthe field, 60 field
labourers in the first gang, 60 in the second gang, 25 in
thethirdj 8 watchmen, 6 Cooks, 2 sick narses, 11 tending
the cattle, calves, &c., 3 tending the goats and pigs, 1
groom, 2 women in charge of children, ilSoMinflrrn
people. Infants, and young children, and 6 invalids. The
quantify of land annually planted in canes about 60 acres,
the quantity of canes reaped about 130 acres, the canes
springing &gain, and if well weeded and kept clean, giv
ing a second and third crop. There were 80 negro hou
ses, with a separate kitchen to nearly every house ; round
the hoiase they are permitted to keep pigs, goats, poultry,
&G. They have also half an acre of land for their own
cultivation. The bouses are built and kept in repair by
the liberal proprietor of the estate. The hospital on the
estate, is a comfortable, roomy, well ventilated baildiiig,
where the negroes are carefully attended in sickness, or
on receiving any injury frotn accident. A skilful raedical
practitioner is era¬ployed to attend day and night— nurses
are provided, wh«o alternately take charge of them, and
whatever is ordered by tiiephysidan, is at once procured.

¦54 WES* INDIESi
and the hours allotted for tbeir work are from six to si^j
giving out of tbat time for their meals ; making their
araount of labour nine working hours daily. 'They have
Saturday and Sunday to themselves, and on asking the
manager, they are permitted to attend funerals, go to
market to sell their own stock. One of the negroes on
this estate, a very industrious man, told me that he had
made on an average £10 per annum, by the ginger and
starch he raised from his portion of ground,, and that he
had amassed more than £100. The morning bell rings
at hatf^ past four, and at a quarter before six the roll is
called over, and they receive instructions for their day's
labour. In addition to the meals which they have, iti
common, on the.estate, tbey have a weekly allowance of
provisions, ten pints of Guinea, corn, or thirteen pints of
Indian corn. If in roots, yams, eddoes, or potatoes, 30
pountisj and' one pound of salt fish to each negro. At
Christmas and in harvest, they are bountifully regaled,
and on the other solemn days, they receive permission to
abstain from work. It is but justice to say, that I never
saw such happiness and prosperity araongst any body, of
labourers, as amongst the negfo population of this island.
Tbey never feU the hardship of want ; were never dis
tressed by the cares of a starving family and wife,' secure
in the possession of a comfortable house ; knew not the
misery of seeing their family and children driven froai
the shelter of their roof, by the cruelty ofa creditor, or the
hardship of the times, nor doomed to depend on cbai-ity
for the support of a wretched existence. These i^^h
calumniated planters never insolently assumed that "all
men were free and equal," and then in solemn mgpkery,
li^creed that slavery in its most cruel, savage, remorse
less, merciless form sbould exist' for ever. ; This startiing
detestable anomaly was reserved for republican slave-

WEST INDIES. 55
They are furnished with tvvo good suits of clothing a year.
holders ! Let thein blush on reading the following mes
sage from one of the Governors of a British Colony in
1823 :
"The Governor and CorofHander-in-chief entreats tbe House to
bear in mind, that the black population, have, like ourselves, every at
tribute of man: not inferior iti intellect, or more degraded in mind, oth
erwise than as they may individually be held in a state of degradation,
or of intellectual inaction; equal to ourselves in the eye of the Almighty
as far as regards the promised rewards or punishments in a future
state; that they are men like ourselves, frail in nature, yet equally
entitled to the protection, equally obtaining the sure and cectain super
intending care of their creator. It must consequently be admitted, that
every endeavour should be used to teach them, by the means of in
creased religious and moral instruction, these first of Christian princi
ples, — that contentment as to their allotted situation in this life, which
the Almighty has assigned them; that a due obedience to their supe
riors, and a quiet and peaceable demeanour, a patient endurance, best
soapportedby the excellent tenets of aur most pure religion, will ensure
to them hereafter those blessed rewards in another and better world,
¦where all will become equal, where all will be judged, not by the color
oftheir skin; not by the chance and adventitious services of this life 5
but by the good or bad use which each individual may have made of
his own intellectual endowments; and of the advantages towards im
provement, incident to this moral state. Let them be taught by our
enactments, the value to be set upon those benificent and enlightened
views pointed out to us in the letter from His Majesty's Secretary of
State: let them be taught that we consider them our fellow creatures,
capable of, and equal to, every species of moral and religious instruc
tion; let them be taught the necessity of prayer, the keeping holy the
Sabbath day, and attending divine service; the sacredness of the mar
ried tie in every well organized society; the value of an oath, and the
consequent capability of their evidence being received in courts of
justice; and finally, the certainty of being as well protected from every
species of oppression and injustice, as their fellow-creatures the white
population are protected.''
What a striking contrast to the language of Governor
McDuffie of CaroHna— General Jackson in his annual
message — ^and the general Congress in their report ',— »

56 WEST INDIES.
With them, slavery is to be perpetual— instruction aiaid
amelioration a crime. Nay, they almost justify the strip-
pings, soourgings, tarrings, featherings;, shootings, hang
ings, and assassinations tbat bands of murderous tyrants,
under the name of Lynch law, have exercised against
those who would attempt the introduction of better and
milder instittitions. Often as I have gloried in belong
ing, by birth and affection, to Great Britain, 1 think 1 ne
ver felt the honor of the connection in so forcible a de
gree, as. when, with an almost exhausted treasury,, she
declared that slavery should become extinct, and that the
mighty boon should not be disfigured by spoliation and
robbery: but that she would give twenty millidns ster
ling to the owners of slaves, as some degree of compensa
tion to them for their inevitable loss. Did the mighty
Republie, with its overflowing coffers, foUaw her splendid
and magnanimous example.? Nb, by their cruel decisions
they would seek forever to exclude the ' coloiired people
from the benefits ofthe social compact — and proclaim,
under the specious and subdued character of "a con^Broi-:
raise of the constitution" a determination to perpetiit^e
slavery, and oppose hy the strongest eorabination of phy
sical and legal power, the ultimate freedom, and presenf
amelioration of the proscribed ?ind helpless negro. Go
vernor McDuffie will perhaps discover the niiistake into
which he has fallen in supposing that slavery Isnecessaryv
irremedial, hopeless^ and perpetual. In South Carolina,
the eminently learned, eloquent, and pious Bishop of
Charleston, has been compelled to g.ba.ndon the school
wbich he had estabdiahed for the lustruetion of free color
ed children: and sorae of the slave-holding states have
Ihreatenqdtp banish all the free Qolored inhabitants from-
Ibeir country, if they deem it n,ecessary for their security.
Surely there must have been some error in the fundamqftT

WESX INDIES. 57
ia\ principle oftheir government, that "all men were by
nature free, equal, and Independent:" it should have been
specially provided, tbat nothing therein contained should
extend to others, than of white skins. An able writer
hav<! said, "If to reduce the African to slavery was a vio
lation sf his natural rights, to hold hira in bondage one
moment longer than Is necessary to prepare him for free
dom, is to perpetuate and pai'ticipate in the injustice. —
And vvhat though the sacrifice should be a costiy one, and
tbe task of emancipation perplexing and difficult ? No
sacrifice is so costiy as tbe sacrifice of justice and human
ity ,• no expectation more unfounded and puerile than
that of returning withotit pain and effort, from the dark
and devious labyrinths of error.
"Facilis descensus Averni:
Sed revocare gradum superasque evadere ad auras,
Hoc opus; hie labor est.
But even iC principle did not require the sacrifice, an en
lightened view of self interest would suggest it. If the
Gordian knot be not untied, it will be cut. What honor,
what glory, what renown, what gratittide have the West
India Colonies justly earned for themselves, and' acquired
by their ready concurrence with the views and wishes of
the Imperial Parliaraent, in removing from the national
escutcheon the foul blot of Slavery! Before closing my
remarks on this lovely island, and its interesting and hos
pitable inhabitants, I cannot forbear noticing its extrerae
saJuhrity. In Sinclair's code of Health and Longevity, it
is stated that in the fearful hitrricane of 1780, which killed
fifteen people^ of that nuraber tour were upwards of one
hundred years of age, and tbat one was ofthe great age
^f a hundred and flftcen. It is the most easterly of the
British West Indies, twenty-one miles in length, and four
teen in breadth, about the size of the Isle of Wight. Th©
8 - :.

.58 WEST INDIES.'
cause of its healthful condition, and the many instances
of extrerae longevity to be met with on every estate, is its
free and perfect ventilation by the constant blowing of
the trade winds, and that of the purest maritime air. Not
overlooking an important fact, greatly influeticing the du
ration of life, the general happiness of tbe negroes, thejr
freedom from all harassing cares about poverty, disease,
and helplessness ; and their regularity in food and general
sobriety. My excellent friend Dr. Farre, in a very inter
esting journal which he published, gave a statement of
the mean temperature ofthe different months of Penzance,
in Cornwall' — of Boncburqh, in the Isle of Wight, — of
Madeira and of Barbados. It certainly proved the admi
rable adaptation of Barbados to persons visited with pul
monary disease, and tbe communication being more
frequent, and the accoraraodations superior, it is worthy
ofthe serious attention of those suffering under that formi
dable malady. It is besides, completely, a British colony :
language, raanners, feelings, .pTin'elples all thoroughly,.
entirely British. -
On the 16th of April, 1 bid adieu ! to Vaucluse, and in
taking leave of the negroes on the estate, I could not, as
I told them, wish them either a better or a kinder wish,'
than they might long be as happy, lighthcarted, prosper
ous, and comfortable as they then were. I hope the ines
timable boon,, since conferred on them by the British,
Government, may realize, in their behalf, all the blessing;^
philanthropy and humanity can desire. I remained two
days in Bridge Town before sailing, and took the oppor
tunity afforded me on the morning ofthe 16th, after bath
ing at Fontabelle, to examine the outiet of tbe stream of
water which it is supposed proceeds from Cole's Cave,
and forms the Indian River. All that is certain, is that a
copious stream of water there issues from the rocks. ;

CHAPTER VI.

On the 17th we weighed anchor at three o'clock, from
Carlisle Bay, in a schooner, the Flying Fish ; if celerity
could justify the appellation, it was never more properly
bestowed. Tbe Captain, a most expert and active sea
man. We went on board at 11 o'clock, but were detained
by waiting for the new Lieutenant Governor of St. Cris-
topher's, and his faraily. Tbe sea was so rough that long
ere we had sailed, I was so excessively sick, from the
tossing about of the vessel, that I continued to keep on
deck, finding the cabin below intolerably hot. Very early
in tbe morning we found ourselves before the Pitons, the
sugarloaf mountains of St. Lucia; they are majestic raoun
tains, of great height, rising perpendicularly out of the
sea, forming a succession of lofty cones. Our vessel was
sailing at a great rate, and we speedily, raade Martinique,
running along its southern shores. The rising sun was
just eraerging frora behind the lofty mountains of this fine
island. As we continued our way, tbe mists ofthe morn
ing gradually disappeared, and exhibited a lovely country,.
fitiely cultivated, and surmounted by raajestic mountains.,
We sailed near the Diamond Rock, so justiy celebrated
as tbe scene of Captain Morris's gallant achievements
during the last war. It was actually a chivalrous exploit,
in hoistipg up a thirty-two pounder frora the topsail yard-
arra of a man of war, and planting it on this perilous crag.
The water is very deep between this bold rock and the
shore, enabling a ship of the largest size to pass through
in perfect safety. The aperture is still to be seen wher^.

60 WEST iNDlEiS.
the gallant Captain slept, and the flagstaff, frora wbich
the Union Jack proudly waved, to remind us, that
Hearts of oak are our ships,
Jolly tars are our raen,
Wp always are ready.
Steady, Boys, steady,
To fight and to conquer, again and again.
We passed the mouth of Fort Royal harbour, considered
one of the most spacious, safe, and convenient in the
world. I saw the curious pigeon rock. La Ramire, which
would seem to be inaccessible and impregnable. The
tfitiiging town of St. Pierre looks very pleasing and inter
esting from the sea. We continued sailing, with a de
lightful breeae, at a very rapid rate, and quickly saw
Dominique with its chain of majestic and lofty raountains.
We could distinctiy perceive the mills and sugar houses at
work. Dominica seemed beautifully wooded. We pass
ed the northern extremity of the Island, and before night
closed in upon us we breastred the southern point of the
rich and extensive island of Guadaloupe. We were
becalmed for some little time under tbe long lee of the
high, land, the Captain informing us that it was very
frequently the case. The following raorning by daybreak.
we were between Antigua and Monteserrat. Monteserrat
presents a fine appearance frOm the sea ; the breeze fresh
ened, and we soon came to a green rock, called Redonda„
which was covered with sea birds. From its round and
beautiful green appearance, it Is a striking andinteresting
Object. As our intention was to land at St. Kitt^, we
run in close to Nevis, and really nothing can be more
exquisite and lovely than this island, viewed from the
sea. The top of its huge, magnificent mountain, rising
in graceful majesty from it, was enveloped in clouds. For
some distance up the mountain the land was finely cuiti-

West indies. 61
Vated, and the appearance of the planter's houses, the
windmills, tbe churches, all enlivened and adorned with
trees of great beauty and majestic growth, rendered it a
most captivating scene. The side of the mountain forms
a long slope connecting it, with a long narrow slip of
land, extending to St. Kitt's. We dropped anchor off St.
Kitt's about twelve o'clock, and really the description ol
tbis exquisite island by Mr. Coleridge is so striking and
correct, that it would" be injustice not to give the account
in bis words :
"The valeof Basseterre, in softness, richness, and perfection of
cultivation surpasses any thing I have ever seen in my life. Green
velvet is an inadequate image ofthe exqliisite verdancy ofthe cane
fields which lie along this lovely valley and cover the smooth acclivities
of Monkey Hill. This hill is the southern terminatiou of a range of
greatmountains which increase in height towards the north, and thick
en together in enormous masses in the centre ofthe isla,nd. The apex
of this rude pyramid is the awful crag of Mount Misery, which
shoots slantingly forwards over the mouth of a volcanic chasm like a
peninsula in the air. It is bare and black and generally visible, whilst
the under p{»rts ofthe mountain are enveloped in clouds. The height'
js raore than 3700 feet, and is the most tremendous precipice 1 ever
beheld.'^ As the people of St.. Kitts were raaking the necessary
preparations to receive the Governor, ray friend proposed
that we should land and see sorae little of tbe island. We
had a view of Basseterre, a town of considerable size, but
looked wreftchedly neglected. It has a noble square,
where a quantity of fruit of all the tropical varieties were
exposed for sale. A number of negroes were collected in
this square ; they had come from the country in the raornr
ing, expecting that the new Governor had been sent from
England to free thera — they therefore positively refused
tb work. They soon discovered the delusion under which
they laboured, but they evinced a very bad and refractory

62 WEST INDIES,
spirit, wbich soon after the eraancipation bill came into
erperation, broke out into acts of fearful violence and
insubordination, rendering it absolutely necessary to take
very strong, pereraptory and coercive measures to quell
their rebellious conduct. Mr. Macqueen was staying at
St. Kitts ; we met hira at the hotel. He bad been visi
ting the various islands, and the planters giateful for his
long continued and unwearied exertions in their behalf,
gave hira grand public dinners throughout his tour. He
is unquestionably one of the ablest and raost consistent
friends of the Colonies, and possesses an imraense fund
of information relative to them. St. Kitt's had shortly
before experienced two shocks of an earthquake, — the
church clock had been stopped and was then unrepaired.
I had no opportunity afforded me of visiting further than
the outskirts of Basseterre, which 1 greatly regretted, as
from what I saw ofthe enchanting steeps, gleaming under
a cloudless sky, in all the rich variety of hue, which the
beautiful flowers and foliage of the tropics supply, I am
convinced of the great attraction of this lovely spot.
There is a soft vale by Basseterre whose vivid green ap
pears as if it had never been violated by raortal foot.
There were several large pelicans flying about the bay.
We weighed anchor about four o'clock, and continued
sailing close in shore, along the coasts of this witching
island, the land seeraed every where rich and verdant and
highly cultivated : and the neat houses, plantations,.
churches, windmills, mountains, deep ravines, and ma
jestic trees were allbeautifully intermingled, and forraed
a mosf'delightful scene. The fort on Brirastone Hill, at
the southern extremity of the island, is situated on a grim
and naked raountain, backed by loftier ones. It appear
ed frora the rugged and precipitous steep on which it is
built almost inaccessible. It is a large and noble fortifi-

WEST INDIES. 63
cation of great command and strength, fronted by the
coast and the sea. Before nigbt closed in upon us we,
saw the lofty islands of Saba aud St. Eustatius, tbey have
a noble conical appearance, — they belong to Holland.
Vejry early on Sattirday morning, we saw land on both
sides ofus, the lovely and fertile island of Santa Cruz on
our left, and theVirgin-Gordo on our right. We shortly
afterwards came in sight of Tortola, St. Johns, and St.
Thomas, and at one o'clock cast anchor in the beautiful
and well protected harbour of the latter Danish Colony.
It is usual to run for tbe Frenchman's rock, a rude bluff
promontory, outside the harbour, and then after passing
it, the harbour itself is surrounded by lofty and majestic
mountains. The views of the town —the ramparts — the
fortifications — and the Signal posts, give the island a no
ble appearance from the sea. The castle built in the
Saxon style, with the sentry pacing before the outer door
way, is very well represented in one of the scenes, in
Charles XII. at Covent Garden theatre.- I was much
struck with the resemblance. On entering the town It
is Immediately evident that it Is a free port, for although
itis under the dominion of the King of Denmark, the
flags of every nation are riding in security in the harbour
— delighted commerce «^reads her crowded sails and tbe
inhabitants of every nation are carrying on their commer
cial speculations in the streets.
"Parthians, ahd Medes, and Elamites, and the dwellers in Miesopo-
tamia, and in Judea, and Gapadocia in Pontus and Asi'a. Phrygia,
and Pamphylia, in Egypt, and in the parts ofSybia about Cyrene,
and strangers of .Koine, Jews and proselytes, Cretes and Arabians."
Our enterprising neighbour's, the Yankees, carry on a
very great trade with this island. The town itself is built
on three hills, rising gracefully from the sea, t|jese again
surmounted by very lofty mountains. The country seems

6^ WEST INDIESj
indifferently cultivated, and the town is intensely hot.—
'I'be houses, are well built, and tbe warehouses or sfores
are very capacious and cornmodious, and well filled with
every description of goodjs, from ajl parts of the world;—:
their inspection alone is a treat of no' ordinary kind;^^-
French, Danish, English, Spanish, ornainents, trinkets,
pictures, and manufactures of every variety, The town
is lighted by lamps, suspended in the centre of the streets;,
four ropes forming a star, fixed from the opposite houses,,
from the middle of which the lamp is bung. Many j)f
the lanterns are painted in the Chinese forra, and look
very ornaraental when lighted up. In addition to its no
velty, it appeared tome to be an improved method of
lighting the streets — the centre as well as tbe sides beiijg
well illuminated, you can see for a considerable distance.
'I'he streets have Danish and French names given to them.
The troops are a very noble, fine looking body of men ;
they perfprm their various exercises on an extensive level
parade ground, immediately beneath a lofty mountain^
npt far from the town. The date tree, the cocoa nut tree,
the tamarind, the sapadillp, the guava, the soursop, tbe
aloe were all growing within a short distance from the
town- All descriptions of religion are tolerated and pro'^
tected in this, island. There ^re two extensive establish
ments of Moravians — two Protpstant churches, (I believe
Lutheran)— a Roman Cathplic^gh.urch — and a large Je;^-
ish synagogue. On Sunday, April 21 st, I went to the
l^man C?itholic church, to raass ; it is a large building,
vfitli a beautifrjl rose wood altar, handsomely decorated
with fine paintings, and ornamented with costly images.
There wasa, very numerous congregation, consisting of
all classes (^persons, and of all countries, white and col
ored, bonif|.an^ free, Itis in an assembly of this kfr^d,
thattheHWtylof the CathoUc faith is especially observed.

WEST INDIES. 65
people of every language uniting together in prayer, with
out the smallest difficulty, assistihg at the celebration of
that holy and august sacrifice, foretold by the prophet
Malacbi, to be made frora the rising to the setting of the
sun. All the stores were open on the Sunday, and the
market places were thrtmged with people. 1 he raain
market extends a mile along the principal street, but the
fish and meat markets are held in one of the side^ streets
leading to tbe bay. Pine apples, shaddocks, melons,
oranges, limes, grape fruit, mangoes, sapadilloes, water
lemons, nuts, egg fruit, and plums, were selling at the
various stalls. There was a quantity of European vege
tables also for sale, — carrots, turnips, parsleys French
beans, &c. A plentiful supply of every variety of fish,
wbich looked very fine : I cannot say as much for the
meat ; likewise an abundance of poultry, probably from
Barbados, as they send a great deal to the Leeward Islands.
The town is'most oppressively hot, lying under a vertical
suri, and screened from the sea breezes in every direction,
by the lofty range of raountains which encircle it. The
Danes bear an excellent character for their* kind treat
ment and usage oftheir slaves. Several that were under
punishment for theft, and other offences, were working
in the road, with a long chain attached to their legs, con
necting them with each other, and an overseer was super
intending them. In the evening I looked in to the largest
Lutheran church, but did not reraain long from my unac
quaintance with the language. It seemed to rae there
was little prejudice generally existing in this island with
regard to colour. The coloured and white population
were setting in pews together, without any distinction.
They have a very large fine troop of free colored men,
whom I saw review'ed several times ; although they did
not seem very perfect in their discipline, they presented,
9

^56 WES-T INDIES.
»« Ihe .whole, a n'OrW^awd iraposlHg g^ppeaiPa.nee at exer-
=^64 The island; is no where well cuHIvatted, but it is
pljBBtifuJly supplied with fruits awdi vegetables from the
surrounding ones; Santa C»iiZ,: imm«diately contiguous
tot'it, faad undeif tlie satif^e gp-verpraent, ^.intd tfee litaxu riant'
lands, of Puert.a'ftiea, furnish it with abu^^ance. of luxu
ries of evefiy description^ It is; altogether a coininercial
mart — a large bajsaar-r and being open to- all Hiatfio-^,. it
has become a complete depot. The whole o^ Spanish
main is supplied with goods from the island^, aijd were^it
ii,olt f©)? the: revolutionary mania which has so ewsedancfe
distrajCtf^^ that country, that of itself would form a large'
tiiade. G«eat numbers o,f oxen and mules aiie sent fro^
tliiB:ri(^^y^'^>?^^^^'^^^''^^i^<^ ^o the' windward islatuds.
The i^^inensp utilityoof oxen,in the West Indies is Incon,-
tjeifV-fritxle,: arndjtheqiio^anftity o^ work tbey perform incredi
ble. Tiiey; are used, for carrying the canes from, tine
i|eM^ tathe, mill-— for all purposes of husbandry-^and for
coftveyiflg the sugaip frpra, the various estates to the
wharves ¦ fpr shipmeiij!. They aj;e fed in- pens, at niglM«/
with.the tops; of tlie sugar Gstnes, and. of the. corn, and
bjFOvWse. on tl^: hilis when thei-e, is any grass growing on,
them. There.are mpre milch cow's than forraerly iia.;the
islands, and many plan,ters,now rai«<e their own stock. It;
was the case at Vaucluse. The milk from the cow is so.
r{ich, tliat- butter 1^ at once made.from it, and of veiiy gasd;
quality. The Abbe Dubois told me that the reasons, tfce
Braehmins looked upon the Ox with such veneratioja,,
arose from their obvious and. imraense utility in scorching
climates. On the 22d, 1 passed, the evening at the house
of a very intelligent' Jew, immed M^siab, one of the
readers, qf the synagogue. His family suffered dre^adfully
ifij the, revolution at St. Doming-p. His hpuse, is situated
on a high^^, hillj embracing an entire vi^\«i ,oC th^ various.

WEST INDIES. gT?
bays and tbe town. The appearance of the latter, brill
iantly illurainated — the sounds of music and merriraent
proceeding from different parts — tbe hum of voices borne
upwards from the street — the soothing influence of a cool
evening, contributed to invest the scene with a romantic
character. The house was bulk In the Moorish fashion,
the entrance to the forecourt was through fine lofty gates,
and an arched doorway, The forecourt was square and
well paved, in tbe centre of which was a fine papaw tree,
instead of a fountain. The apartments which were on
the ground floor, were square and lofty, opening Imrae
diately into it. Around tbe house was a handsorae ter
race, carefully screened from the sun, by a large jalousie.
Tbe situation is altogether highly picturesque, and as com
fortable as any residence could be made near the town»
When the eight o'clock evening gun is fired the reverber
ation continues to resound through the rocks for sorae
time. The streets are then cleared— the burghers then
undertake the office of watchmen alternately — the muni
cipal laws are severely enforced, and persons remainlng^
in the streets after this period are liable to be apprehended
and punished. At the hotel there were two of the most
beautiful birds I almost ever beheld ; the one called the
Tropial, with yellow and black plumage, and of most ex
quisite voice: the other, a raocking bird, ofa grey colour,
whose iraitative powers were astonishing. April 23d,
St. George's Day. A splendid Danish Ship- sailed this
day frora the harbour for Denmark, and took^a hag of
letters for England, which they leave with a pilot in the
channel. The market presented a very gay scehe, a
quantity of fruit having arrived in the morning from Santa
Cruz. ¦-'^^¦¦t:

IJMITE» STATES.

"Virtue and Intelligence — the sheet-anchor ofour national union,
and the perpetuity of our national freedom." — Extract from a Speech
of the present enlightened President of the United States, Andrew
J.4CKS0N.

CHAPTER VII.

At three o'clock in the afternoon of 23d, we went
on board the schooner, Vernpn, for Philadelphia, and
weighed anchor at four. A capital breeze attended us
out ofthe harbour, which continued several days, until it
increased to a gale, accorapanied with violent squalls. At
the full of the raoon, the sun went down with such an
angry appearance, and the clouds flitted so rapidly, as to
induce the Captain to take in all sails ; it proved a very
fortunate precaution; for shortly afterwards we were
struck by a white squall,so called frora no other indication
appearing, but a white scud on the surface ofthe waves,
which must have sunk the vessel, but for the prudence of
the Captain. I was thrown with some violence out of
my birth, and went on deck, but the vessel had righted
herself immediately. The weather still continued bois
terous and unsettled for several days. On entering the
gulf stream we tested the temperature of the water, by
the thermometer, several times daily, and found the vari-

70 UNITED STATES.
ation between it, and the atmosphere, generally ranging
from five to ten degrees. The difference between the
temperature -of the water of the gulf stream, and that of
the sea beyond it, was thirteen degrees. I observed a
great quantity of weeds in this stream, some fresh and
green, but generally yellow and withered. It vvas the
itppearance csf these weeds that enabled the great Coluni*
bug to raise the iSrodpihg spirits of bis disheartened crevVi
by pointing them out as a certainty that they were not
far distant from the land. Tiiere were large pieces of
wood constantly floating by us, probably frora some of the
American riversi T^e littie nautiluis or I'ortuguese men
of war, were riding dbout the sea in all directions ; sorae
large, all graceful, and many of varied and extremely
beautiful colors. They take iii their sails with more ex-'
pedition, than the American sailors, which is saying a vast
deal in praise oftheir agility and quidtiiVss. '
On May 7th, about seven ©'clock in the ^ewin^s we
iappr«ached Finwick's island, the first land wenvadie : the
Cdpti^n immediately hoisted asigmil fcfr a pilot,' b^«t '^»«
were Hot s© fortunate as to ©bisiM one ^at' n^t^' Th^
windwas then btowittg faira!ndfi*esiii-^We #ere©tf Capl
Henlopen — t/he Captain pat the vessel wsd^e* essy Mti^
vass. To onr great r&ok^tm'i&H, w*heri day l)g^ »a^p^«#^
ed, and we hM produred a pilot, w€'fifiMtd onrscJvfe* 6ff
Cape May, On the <>pposfte ^de of the Delaware' Bft^f
wMrbefr we had drifVed in tbe hi^f, and to' eb^e*e' tl<S
V^ialSon, ft was a perfect calhi. fiPaVitig eb^pdr?eneid qWt^
SUfflcien^^if the p teasiJreS of tbe sea^ we pr^ferreff jii^eM^
ing 'to iNi^ddefphia by ikaff, rathiertaian by di^l!)^^
ware river, Which #oih it« i*ia^ftifeide at ife raM'iih,i§65flg
twenty mll^s aeh-oss; and thfe grandeur of its spKhdfti
Mf%akwatfer;'^^efeieai to promise nfe a high gp^tfflfetitlte
We landed at C^peMa^f Island, tfi€ coiisf ^fe^'^ll^fl^i^,'

UNITED STATES. 7t
but green and cheerful. . Tbe island presents from the
si ver very much the appearance of the £ss6x coast about
Foulness and Southend. It was a raost lovely, cloudless
and warm morning, and the sturgeon were leaping and
curvetting about the unruffled waters of tbe bay. This
place is quite the resort for the fashionables of Philadek
phia in tbe summer montlis, and to tliat circumstance I
am inclined to attribute the good roads, throught the imr
mense pine forests I afterwards traversed. The bathing
must be excellent, from the fineness of the beach ; theife
were numbers; ®f machines, standing in front of the vari
ous hotels, giving the place a striking resemblance to an
English bathing place ; from the beautiful enclp&ures of
green, not unllkp Broadstalrs. The taverns are spacious,
and well furnished, and 1 have no- doubt present a very
lively scene duping the seasoai. They stand immediately
in front of tbe, sea- The beach is extremely beautiful, the
sand of the most delicate whiteness, quite firm, and ex-
tendinga longdistance on the shore. There were num
bers of birds of various descriptions, particularly ofa
small grey bird, which are esteemed a choice delica
cy. I visited the light house a short distance from the
village : it is a circular building, ninety feet in height,
and is lighted up with revolving lights, that mariners may
be. enabled to distinguish it froratheone of Cape Henlopen
jQnthe opposite shore, which has a stationary light. 'Ihe
marsh lands about this island are extensive and divided
by Dykes as in Rochford Hundred ; they rerainded me;
most forcibly of them, as well as those about Canewdon :
they are very celebrated for grazing, and vast quantities
of sheep are fattened on them-
May 10th, left Cape May Islsjnd at tWP o'clock in the
looming, by the coach, fop^PhiladeJphia. tt was , quite
daasfc until we reached Ce>pe iMia^court-hQitsej the first

72 UNITED STATESw
thirteen railes, and where we changed horses. Iti.sa
small village, pleasantiy situated, and having a good road
to the island. When day light enabled rae to see the
country, I was much surprised at the singular appearance
of the fences. Miss Fanny Kemble compares them with
her usual delicacy, to "the herring-bone seams of a flannel
petticoat." Tbey are at first, certainly, disagreeable to
the eyes of an Englishman accustomed to behold the
highly ornamented and beautiful quickset hedges of haw
thorn in bis own highly cultivated country. They are
moveable zigzag fences, formed of rails placed on each
otber and secured with stakes and riders, and are termed
Vi/ginia fences.
Turning out of the main road frora the Court House,
Intotbe woods, there was a large and beautiful peaeh
orchard coveredvvith lovely blossoms. The first village
we piassed through was called Goshen, an entire new
place,'but apparently thriving, as tbe extent of the orch-
; JIMS', the appearance of the houses, and the large clear
ings in tbe wood seemed to indicate. The roads are in
great part corduroy; — long trees lying parallel with each-
other, and resting on side trees, — they are absolutely ne^
cessary when the roads pass through swarapy districts:-^
and there were several swaraps in these woods. Dennis'
Creek is the next settleraent ; there were great quEintlties
of staves, andabundance ef timber, ready for conveyance*
by this stream, to the Delaware River: and the place,
from the contiguity, by water, to that river, being sur
rounded by fine timber, and possessing valuable watec^
privileges, must become a place of trade and importance.
There were several saw-mills at work, quantities of saw
logs ready for lumber, and some boat-building going on.
Tuckahoe was the next place we arrived at, where we
changed both stage and horses, and breakfasted at a very.

UNITED STATES. 73'
comfortable inn. We had a capital breakfast and paid
moderately for it. This village contains many good hou
ses, and also possesses the advantage of a fine creek con
necting it with the Delaware river. Frora the village we
soon got into the woods, through which we travelled
nearly sixty miles, a great part over corduroy roads, al
most shaking us to pieces. In some parts tbe hemlock,
spruce, and cedar form a noble grove. Throughout this
extensive district of forest, there were but very few places,
where any thing like cultivation appeared. Occasionally
we carae to a spot where small patches of the woods were
in progress of clearing, and here and there a new log
house, a recentiy planted peach and apple orchard, and a;
few rye fields were to be seen. I have not, even in Can
ada, beheld so long continued a- forest scene as this. In
tha course ofour progress, we passed an extensive district
ol wood, which had been on fire several days, and was
still burning, destroying some very valuable pine timber.
We saw the traces ofthe fire for more than ten mUes of
our journey. We dined at an inn called the Cross Keys,
twelve miles only from Philadelphia, and richly enjoyed
a fine piece of roast beef; the dinner was both good and
cheap. We came into a much more cultivated and finer
country here, the scenery more and more picturesque, the
farms larger, houses better, land of finer quality, good
ci^s girowingj thd tisnber of a different character and
growth. I never saW fifter elms^ scyamoresj and chesnut
treeS^than I observed in this rotite ; the eountiry is gener
ally undulating, until arriving at Mount Ephrainoi, it is
then leveh the road verysandy, but the cwuntrj^ well clear--
ed and tHled.' • We stopped at vGamden, on ; the Jersey
side ofthe rivdr Delaware, 'atsiro*Glock in the evening.
Tke river presetvtdl a most animated app^nrsiicef st«am
boats consiautly ruiaiaBg to and ii^c^ Phil»^ipiiik;'lm'&s
10

74 USilTED STATES.
greatiy astonished at their very superior convenience com
pared with those of England — the end of the steara-boat
is let down by iron braces, and firmly fixed in tbe wharf
adapted to the purpose so that a carriage and four might
drive on to the deck with the greatest ease: at the ring
ing of the bell, it is again detached from the wharf, and
the steara-boat proceeds to her destination. The magni
tude, beauty, and number of them on this river alone
give it a lively appearance, the constant whirling of the
paddles appearing like a number of mills at work in the
river. We passed over to Philadelphia and took up our
abode at the adrairable hotel in Third-street, called Man
sion House, kept by Mr. Head. The appearance of Phil
adelphia, frora the Delaware, is neither imposing, nor
pleasing. It has only the look of a busy, bustling place,
but as you advance, you discover it to be a handsome,
clean and beautiful city. The streets run in pa.rallel lines,
and at right angles to each other, which greatly facilitates
the enquires of a stranger, as well as maintains beauty
and 'regularity in the arrangeraent of thera. Many of the
public buildings are very handsorae edifices, composed of
white marble, the Exchange, Girard's Bank, and the
State's Bank are amongst the finest specimens. On both
sides, of sorae of tbe principal streets, Chesnut-street,
Walnut-street, Arch-street, fine majestic trees are grow
ing, chiefly horse chesnut, with their branches of lovely-
whhe blossoras, formlnga dehghtfid shade ; the streets are
wide, the principal ones 100 feet, none less than 50; they
are well paved, and are Jiept extremely clean. '1 he upper
parts ofthe houses are brick, and the basement story mar
ble : the doors are generally painted either white or satin
wood, and having silver handles and knockers, produce
a chaste and pleasing effect. The population of Phila
delphia city amounts to 200,000 inhabitants^ an^^presents

UNITED STATES. 75
altogether a cultivation, polish, and gentility which would
render it a more desirable place for a residence, than any
other portion of tbe States r visited. Its literary institu
tions stand also deservedly high, and the beautiful library
given by Franklin Is well worthy ofthe Inspection ofthe
passing stranger. Attached to the Franklin library, is a
fine museum of natural curiosities, with a costly and adrai
rable philosophical apparatus. Tbe square naraed after
this eminent individual, is a fine specimen of rich verdure,
and majestic trees, growing In the centre of a large city:
its delightful walks are frequently crowded with tbe beauty
and fashion of Philadelphia.
The medical institution belonging, lo the Philadelphia
University possesses high renown, and numbers amongst
its professors raany distinguished ornaments of tbe sci
ence. Tbe narae of Dr, Rush alone, would alraost con
fer imraortality on an establishraent of which he was both
a raeraber and an honor. There are connected with
this school nearly 500 students, audit has nine professors.
The Jefferson Medical College, in Tenth-street, is anoth
er Interesting and useful institution. During the course
of publication of these notes, I had the great pleasure of
receiving from an old and most intelligent friend the fol
lowing gratifying announcement.
"new CffAIR OF THE INSTITUTES OP MEDICINE ANlJ MEDICAL.
JUKISPRUDENCE.
«*The progress of Medical Science demanding, in the opinion.of the
Trustees of Jefferson Medical College, an extension of the course of
instruction, they have created a new Professorship, viz: that of "Thg
Institutes of Medicine and Medical Jurisprudence, and have elected to
this Chair Robley Dunglison, M. D. formerly Professor of Physiology
in the University of Virginia, and late I^rpfessor of Materia Medica in
the University of Maryland. The appointment has been officially ac
cepted. In announcing to the Profession the appointment ofthe distinguish
ed gentleraan to a Professorship in Jefferson Medical College, the qfi

'^6 UNITED STATES.
ficers oftfiat Institution do go with unmijced gratification. The repii*
tfitipn of ProfesBor Dungli?on ip too weU known to require any conir
njeut. As a scholar, a profound Phygiciap, aijd an enlightened Physi
ologist, he holds the highest rank, both in this country and in Europe ;
and, aa an eloquent and popular lecturer, has no superior."
I have dissected with Dr. Dunglison, in England, and
can bear most willing testimony to his high endowments,
perspt^al worth, and adtnirable character. Tbe Pennsylva
nia Hospital is a splendid erection: its front is %73 feet; it is
connected with another large building adapted for sixty
patients- Attached to it is a delightfiil gaiden ; every
thing that care, humanity, and skill can accomplish, in
the cure of disease, modifying its anguish, and repairing
Its r^vage$, is here made use of. The^nirches and chap-
ejs are very nuraerous, raany of them exceedingly beau
tiful; the, Scotch Cbuycb, St, Stepbeh's is most superbly
fttiisbed and furnished, and the Catholic Church, St.
John's in Thirteepth street, is an ornament to the city. —
The altar is truly elegant and has over it a splendid
painting, the present of Joseph Bonaparte. It is thh
church to which, that accomplished scholar, polished gen
tleman, and eminent divine, the Rev, J. Hughes, is at
tached. So greatly and so justly, is this estimable char^
acter valued by all classes, that his portrait was taken by
public subscription, a fine engraving was executed from
the painting, and is to. he met with in the excellent bookr
sellers' shops with which this city abounds. Since wrir
ting this, I find that the Rev. Mr. Hughes has received
the ring, the mitre, and the crozief, as a reward for his
piety and raerit.
There are six CathoUc Churches in Philadelphia. St
Joseph's, Willings' Alley, is remaining : it is low but
spacious^ celehrated for its beings the first erected in this
beautiful city, by the ever j^t?tive «fld zealous sons of St.

UNITED STATES. 7T
Ignatius. The diocese of Philadelphia being very exten
sive, the Bishop has the assistance ofa coadjutor.
"The citizens of Philadelphia are taking measures for the estab
Ushment ofa City Ceinetry, upon the plan of the beautiful ground at
Mount Auburn, near Boston. A number of public spirited gentlemen,
well qualified from their means and their good taste to take such a
matter in hand, have purchased Laurel Hill for this praiseworthy pur
pose. This fine spot is situated on the banks of the Schuylkill, and
is capable of being made every thing that is desirable in such an
obiect." I regretted that circumstances prevented rae from see
ing the prison, so justly famous for the reformation of its
inmates, a model for the civilized world; — the Naval Hos
pital, and the Navy Yard; the forraer has the repute of
being admirably conducted, in the latter is to be seen the
maramoth ship Pennsylvania, supposed to be the largest
ever built. This city altogether is replete with interest:
in its crowded streets the bum and activity of coraraerce
is met with ; in its lovely squares, wealth and fashion and
beauty-^and in sorae, actually the rural charras of a
country scene. Nor can I omit mention of its long and
admirable market, raost abundantiy supplied with fish,
game, poultry, vegetables, butter, eggs, and fruit. We
left Philadelphia in a steam-boat early in the morning,
the scene was not very dissimilar to the avenues to tbe
steara-boats in London. Crowds of persons hastening
with trunfcs,'portroanteaus-™parties, rushing to the water-
edge— bells ringing, presenting a singular scene of anima
ted confusion. We obtained breakfast tickets, and sat
down with an imraense party tp a very capital and sub
stantial breakfast. The banks ofthe Delaware are raore
pleasing than grand. The country is well cultivated,and
snrall villages, witGl occasional farm-houses, are amongst
the objects of its attraction. The boat, landed passengers
at Burlington, on the New Jfersey side of the river, 18

78 UNITED STATES.
m:iIesfrom Phlladielpbia; at Bristol, one raile farther, on
the Pennsylvania side: and at Bordentown, ten railes far
ther on the New Jersey side. This is a bustiing place
since the rail road has been raade, connecting it with
Soilth Amboy, on Rariton Bay. Several coaches were
in waiting for the conveyance of passengers, very like the
old fashioned double bodied stage coaches of England 
The body ofthe coach is divided into three compart
ments, each holding six persons ; it is drawn by four
horses, changed three tiraes: the distance was thirty-four
miles, which we perforraed including landing etc. in three
hour^. The horses were all ready, and waiting In sheds;
and were as quickly harnessed as those of the Brighton
stages: greater celerity is not possible. The trunks, goods,
parcels, etc., are placed on large crates in the steam-boat
¦«vhich is lifted by raeans of a crane to a carriage, and
again from tbe carriage to the stearaer by the sarae me
thod, 'i he road through which tbe rail road' runs, is
through a country indifferently cultivated, most probably
from the poverty of its soil. The only tolerable crops
were rye, and but one field particularly heavy: the peach
orchards were flourishing, presenting a delightiful collec
tion of deJieate pink flowers.
Ill this beautifully wooded district, stretching to the
banks of the Delavvare, round about the, environs of Jo
seph Bonaparte's demesne, there were growing gigantic
plane and maple trees — tbe horse chesnut — several vari
eties of oak— -the sassafras^ — the hickory — the pride of
India — ^the.catalpa — the-liquid amber styraciflua — theleri-
odendron tulipifera, and magnolia grandiflora, many of
thera brought) there, perhaps by Joseph Bonaparte him
self. They always, in my estiraation,* impart an air of
grandeur and raajesty to any scene.
Joseph Bonaparte's raansion is at Bordentown ; it is a

UNITED STATES. 79
spacious building, not particularly handsome, on the
banks of the Delaware, surrounded by a profusion of raost
beautiful flowering shrubs, rhododendrons, azaleas, mag
nolias, japonicas, and some trees of a very majestic and
stately growth. Tbere is a large observatory built on the
grounds, coraraanding the Delaware river, and a splendid
extent of country. The part seen frora the river, between
Amboy and New York, seems exuberantly fertile, large
raeadows covered with grass of the finest growth, exten
sive orchards and well built houses adorn its banks.
Tbere is a creek navigable to Ellzabethtown, frora which
a steamer runs every day to New York. It is a pretty
village, with sorae good buildings, and contains a popula
tion of nearly 4,000 persons. Newark, so celebrated for
its cider, and its Im .mense shoe manufactory, and contain
ing a population of nearly 14,000, is seen on this route ;
it is nine miles from New York, and six from Elizabeth-
town.

CHAPTER VIII.

We arrived at New York on Tuesday, May 13th: —
its appearance did not realize the expectations which I
had forraed of it, from the description of some travellers.
It is a pleasing, rather than a splendid scene, more pic
turesque and Interesting, than grand and romantic. The
various islands— the shipping,.steam-boats, fishing boats —
the churches-^theitfextent of the town — ^the gentle hills— •
the numerous scattered houses on the islands— ^the pretty
villages —tbe excellent cultivation — and the noble orch-

8Q UNITED STATES.
ards,. render il a very gratifying scene. The city is situ
ated on Manhattan Island, and covers a great extent of
ground. It is the grand mart ofthe commorceand enter-,
prise ofthe United States. It possesses a safe and spacious
harbour, scarcely ever been frozen up, until last winter,
January and February, 1836, memorable to this city, from
that circumstance, and tbe awful conflagration which
Consumed so much of its wealth and splendour.
On the afternoon of our arrival, we found that the Go
vernor of the State of New York, Hon. W. L. Marcy,
was expected from Albany on a visit to the city. Great
preparations iwere made to give hira a flattering recep
tion, and hearty welcome- He is a deservedly popular
man. >i The infantry and cavalry were called out on the
occasion, and formed in a long line in . front o€ the street
where he lattded. Bonaparte truly said that there was*
but one- step from the sublime to the ridiculous, and heri
it was fully realized. In England a military spectacle on
such an occasion would have been a grand sight, here it
was not only a failure,, but ridicirious. The crowd con
tinually broke the line of the infantry, in crowding to the
landing place. There were a great concourse of specta
tors, and the Governor received their hearty acclamation.
He carae from Albany in a magnificent steam-boat called
the North Araerica. The Broadway is a majestic street,
nearly dividing the city, eighty i'eet iri width, mcwe than
three Iniles in length, and filled with (admirable stores and
noble buildings. . The Ratlery, the Castief garden, and
the Park are intcrlesting objects, and at Niblo's 1 saw as
finfe a collectiofn of flowers and fruits, at a public exhibit
tion, as I ever witnessed at any of the fldral and bortioil-
taral exhail»tions in England. The (Rty Hsdl, bulk irf
white fnarbley is a supferb ami massive stmcture, its j»ngth
is&k& feet> its breadth 105 feet. The police toom^ tW

UNITED STATES. 8|.
court of aldermen, the city council hold their meetings
here in distlnctand handsorae rooms. The council cham
ber has some excellent paintings in it ; the chtirches are
*fitie buildings ; the largest of those belonging to the Epis
copalians, are St. Pauls, Trinity, and St. John's. The
monuments and reraains ofthe chivalrous General Mont-.
gomery, who gallantly fought and perished at Quebec,
and tbose of Judge Eraraett, brother to the highly gifted
aiid unfortunate Eraraett, are in the first church : in the
second, a most exquisite piece of sculpture, in remem-^
brance of Bishop Hobart; and the third is celebrated by
the beauty of its proportions and the height of its spirei
All ihe^churches In New York are numerously attended —
solidly built — neatly and tastefully ornamented^— and lib
erally suppjorted by the spontaneous contributions of the
people. The Catholic cathedral, St. Patrick's, is a noble
building, 120 feet long, by 80 feet wide, beautifully finish
ed and handsoraely decorated — it is capable of contain
ing 6,000 persons. Tbere are five other Catholic church
es in this vicinity. The Bishop is greatly esteemed for
his fervent and unostentatious charity, and his entire
abstinence frora all political interferenee.
NEW PKESBYTERIAN CHURCH.
* 'One of .the niost beautiful structures for Ditine worship tiiat we
ha,ve ever seen, is the Presbyterian church recently erected on the
block formed by Waverley Place^ Clinton Place, and Mercer; an4
Qreene streets, aad under the charge of the Rev. Dr. Skinner. Its
dimensions are — width steventy-two feet, and length about a hundred '¦
and'tSirteen, with a tower twenty feet square, and one hundred feet
high. The oifder, we believe, is Gothic, with pointed-arch windows.
But. the infejflqr' is KiOist elegant The cfeiling is slightly arched, wit^
slejider ribs, springing freni the, wall,^ on each, side, an(j uniting at 9
' very obtuse angle in ||g centre, witl\.an extremely happy effect of light
ness and grace. A' deep gallery runs along each side and^'the front,
sUj^ported by celuraos netmore than leven or eight inches inHiam^ter ;
the principal part of the front gallery ia partitioned off for the'^t^iti
n

^ trfnXED STATES.
^ving seats for nearly a hundred singers, aud at the back isacfeep)
arched recess containing the organ. The floor of the church is divided*
IB three parts by broad aisles, each part containing two rows df pews.
The pulpit, which partakes the nature of both platform and pulpii, is-
ascended by a slightly curved flight of steps on each side, bading to'
aplatform of fifteen feet, with the deck or pdpit projecting in front.
At the corners of this platform are four octagonal turrets, of oak, sup
porting lustres for gas.
"The cloth ofthe reading desk is of rich velvet;, the carpet, as welt
of the platform as of the stairs, and the elevation on which the pulpit
and platform stand, of the most costly fabric and beautiful pattern,
although containing no bri|;ht or gay colors. Tbe aisles also are car
peted, and the pews. The chairs of the platform are of fliahogany,.
richi'massive and heavy. The partitions between the pews and the
sides ofthe aisles, are railed also with polished mahogany. The other
wood-work, throughout the church, is stained in imitation of oak. The
pews are aTl uniformly lined sM cushioned, with fine moreen, of a;
hue the exact name of which we knew not— it is sonrething like pirce,
or the plumes of a wild pigeon's breast, but darker, beautifully coq.
trasting with the light mellow tint of the oak. The lofty windows ar»
fitted with blinds, painted in brilliant colors like those of the stained
glass in the old cathedrals of Burope,. giving a lovely effect to the sim
ple elegance ofthe interior.
"This is but a very imperfect and meagre description, but we have-
DOt the skill to accomplish a better."
The raedical college is a spacious edifice, and highly
celebrated as an exceUent school : it is amply endowed ,*
there are about 300 students. The Exchange is a beau
tiful white marble edifice, handsoraely fronted by columns',
Jt contains the post-oflSce, reading rooms, commerciaJ'
rooms, and ofiices of several papers. The number of
omnibusses, and cabriolets running in all directions, ren
ders this city not unlike London. The dry docks are
worth seeing, and the splendid range of mansions erect
ing, called LaFayette terrace, are buildings like the ter
races \a Regent's Park. The populef^n of the city ia>
estimated at 2^9,683. The hotels are numerous and ex.-

UNITED STATES. 8$
"ths astor hotel. ,
¦?'The Astor Hotel, iu Broadway, New York, is destined to be on«
«fthe most splendid establishments of the kind in this or any other
¦country. We copy the subjoined account of it from the N. Y. Times.
"The Messrs. Boyden will conduct the Park Hotel in a style worthy
of the magnificent -structure, There are no persons in this country,
)ior any ether, more experienced nor more competent. Their prepara
tions have been made on a grand scale, and in the spirit of liberal en
terprise, which is of course to preside over the conduct of the house.
It is difficult to give the distant reader any clear idea ofthe magnitude
ofthe concern, but a few facts may assist his fancy. The pile is a quad
rangle, 200 feet front by 160 deep, six stories high, and built around a
court Qf about seventy by a hundred. There are about 350 rooms in
tbe house, each containing a fire place and a bell, and between eighty
and a hundred servants will be required. The great dining room i^
ninety-four feet by fifty : the ladies' dining room about 46 by 50.
"The water and gas pipes are amply distributed to the very lop. The
baths ia the south wing are numerous and well fitted. Of the vast
amount of furniture required, some notion may be formed from the
quantity of a single article— three thousand, spoons are ordered. A
wine merchant of great practical skill, who has been engaged for many
months in collecting the wines, says that there has never been a stock
in the country tbat could compare with it for extent, variety and
quality," Comraunication is constantly to be met with, with all
parts of the globe. The packets used for Liverpool, Lon
don, and Havre, are like floating palaces* The utmost
ingenuity has been taxed to render the arrangeraents most
perfect: the acccoramodations of every kind, raost admi
rable. The fittings up are splendid, and they are justly
considered the ornaraents of the ocean, and the admira
tion of every port into whicb they sail. We left New York
in a large and beautiful steam-boat named the De Witt
Clinton, in honor of one of thebest and raost enterprising^
governors, that ever presided over that state. The scene
ry ofthe Hudson 1lver,called by the Indians "the great ri
ver of the mountains," has been so often depicted by abler
and more experienced pens than mine, that I shall hot

84 xmrED states.
attempt a lengthened description of its beauties. It is a
lovely, gentiy flowing river, taking its rise in the moun
tainous region west pf lake Champlain, pursuing a course
of 300 railes to its debouchure into the Atiantic. It bas
three remarkable expansions — Tappan bay, Haverstraw
bay, and a bay between Fishkill and Windsor. The Mo
hawk river eraptles Itself intotbe Hudson. The palisades,
riide, broken rocks of a perpendicular depth of five or six
hundred feet, extending, about twenty miles, forming a
powerful rampart of stones, are greatly adraired by the
tourist and traveller. About forty railes from New York
the river finds apassage through the Highlands, two lofty
mountains of great and romantic grandeur, apparently
xiven asunder by sorae awful commotion of nature. Tbe
'Catskill mountains .overhanging this noble river, with
their unrivalled scenery of woods and waterfalls, are the
resort of thousands who love the contemplation of nature
in its richest, raost varied and raost raajestic forms. Their
rounded sura raits and towering peaks, form a striking
contrast to the unbroken continuity and horizontal out^
line of the American mountains generally. At West Point
there is a large military academy commanding a fine
view of die Hudson; beyond it are the range of the
Fishkill mountains, rising one above another, from the
mighty streams which rolls in silent grandeiir at their
base : far away to tbe north they gradually recede, expo*
sing the broad, cultivated, and undulating counties of
Putphess and Orange; farms, villages, lakes and streams
mingling and glittering in the sunbeams. Nearer to
Albany the banks of the river becorae lower and enable
you to view a rich, luxuriant, and highly culti'vated coun
try, abounding w;ith pleasing hamlet# and occasionally
fine^arge farm houses. The tide flows as fer as Albany.^.
nearly 160 miles from. New York, but steam-boats go to

UNITED states. 83
Troy and VValerford, as well as sailing vessels of a certain
size. As the Erie Canal terminates at Albany, it causes
a vast deal of activity,-the nuraber of passengers, and the
quantity of produce conveyed by it is incredible. Run
ning in the same direction as lake Ontario, and being th$
route to Canada, it exhibits at all times an enlivening and
romantic scone. It was the 1 8th of May when we landed
at Albany, and we met wilh raiiich difficulty frora tbe
immense accumulation of water, which had inundated
the country for miles round. Such a freshet had scarcely
been remembered, and it so Injured the banks of the Erie
Canal, In raany places, as greatly to retard our progress,
but permitted us to take a more extended and leisure view
of the country, than under other circumstances we should
have been enabled to have done. Albany presents a plea
sing appearance ; it is well biiilt, and contains some hand
some edifices. The Capital, at the upper part of the
town, stands on an elevated and very commanding situ
ation ; it is 116 feet in length and 90 in breadth. From
the summit- of the capital there Is a rich and beautiful
prospect, the city slopes to the edge of the river, present
ing a scene of great animation, and the eye ranges on the
opposite side of the river over an Immense extent of very
fertile and highly cultivated country. There are two
canals from Albany — the great Erie Canal, arid the one
to lake Charapledn — the first363 miles in length, the latter
72, Stages are constantly passing to and from Albany,
The population exceeds 28^000 persons.
On the 19th of May we left Albany in one ofthe canal
boats — the country to Troy is pleasing. We passed the
house and grounds of the celebrated Van Rensselaer, still.
called the patroon. There are several malt houses near
TiK>y; the eountryremioded' rae 'of Brentwood and South
W^d, possessing t^e same soft, verdant, undulating as-

S6 TJNlTEn STATES.
pect, with a greater appearance of business and activity.
Sloops are navigable up the Hudson as far as Troy ; — the
Junction is two miles further. The Cahoos Falls, tbree
miles above the inouth of the Mohawk river, are very
grand : the river js at least 1,000 feet wide, the rock over
which tbe water rushes is 70 feet high. There is a fine
view of them from the junction. '1 he canal winds along
the wild banks of this roraantic river, the scene of raany
a desperate struggle with the Indians. The fir, spruce,
and birch were most beautifully intermingled with maple,
oak, beech, and elm. The Mohawk is shallow and rapid,
and not navigable. At this time it was unusually bigh
frora the recent freshet. The crops of rye and wheat
looked very promising. The view of the city oi Schen
ectady — where we were detained an entire day, and the
canal wholly blocked up with boats — looks very interest
ing from the latter. Schenectady is situated on a hand
some plain, and surrounded by a most fertile country : it
is 16 railes from Albany, with which it is connected by a
rail road, as well as by canal. It possesses some large
and fine buildings,and an elegant bridge 1000 ft. in length
extending across the Mohawk river. On the east side of
the city is a most beautiful area of several acres, standing
OH an elevated position, and commanding a delightful
prospect, is the Union College. It consists of two noble
brick edifices, each 200 feet in length, and two boardit^
houses — there is every thing provided for the complete
education of youth, an adrairable library, and coraplete
philosophical apparatus. They have in this excellent in
stitution nearly 300 students. The population of Schen
ectady is nearly 4,500 persons. Curiosity induced rae to
look in at St, George's Church, iraraediately before the
conclusion of the morning's service —it was announ-
cft^ Irom the pulpit that a clergyman, a coloured

CNITED STATES. St
man from Baltimore, would preach In tbe evening. The
church was consequently at tbat hour well attended, and
although there was a sufficient abatement of prejudice toi
permit the clergyman to fill the pulpit, there was still
enough remaining to prevent the coloured and white por
tions of the congregation, mixing together, as a gallery
was specially reserved for the forraer .The clergyraan, by
no means, distinguished himself, his talents were below
mediocrity. The farms in the neighborhood of Schenec
tady were large, and the crops looking well, tbe orchards
were extensive and promising. Between this place and
Amsterdam, there are several small Islands on the Mo
hawk river, beautifully verdant : tbe land in this neigh
bourhood was well cultivated, and the pasturage. very
superior. There was an abundance of red and white
clover and timothy grass. Amsterdam contains some fine
mills and manufactories, with a population of 3,500 per
sons. The windings of the river and the lovely green
slopes forming its banks, gives it much the aspect of Hen
ley upon Thames. The alluvial flats on the Schoharie
river, of a mile and upwards in width, and seventy in
length, are not exceeded in fertility, by any lands in the
State of New York. They exhibit a richness of verdure
quite refreshing.
May 19th, made but a progress of ten miles this day,
owing to the ravages caused to the banks ofthe canal and
the aqueductSjby the extraordinary flood which had com
pletely inundated this part of the country, Its appearance
was singularly pleasing from the richness of the green,
after such plentiful irrigation, and tbe lovely spring buds
and foliage as seen along the beautiful meanderiags of the
Mohawk river.
Fort-Plain, situated on a creek, seems a vdry neat„
well-built, increasing, and thriving plttce : the farms in

g§ ' UNITED STATES.
the Vicinity large and excellent, and . the scenery of ff,e
Mohawk to enhance their value. There were between
three and four hundred boats on the canal Crowd* of
Swiss and German emigrants swarming to thefar west.
20th. Still pursuing our course along the banks of
the Mohawk,the lands wearing the most promising appear
ance and seemingly of astonishing fertility. The canal
windsl:hrough a rich valley, enclosed between hills, cov
ered to their very summits with beautifid trees of syca-
cnore, sugar maple, ash, elm, hickory, willows and every;
species of the pine. From the interruption to the navi
gation, I was enabled to enquire of many English farm
ers, who were settied on its shores questions, relative to
the cpuntry and its prospects, and I was greatly gratified'
ai hearing ofthe uniform prosperity of thera, all. There
were many In the boats, who, like rayself were on their"
way to Canada. Several pretty towns are in progress of
forraation along the route ofthis canal, and tbose already
formed are greatly iraproving and increasing. The ex
cursion along the canal, is rendered doubly inierestiug by
the neat new houses — the well ciiltivated fields — the
gently rising hills adorned with trees, presenting; every
variety of foliage in its rich vernal tints-— the large prch-;
ards with the peach, apple, and pear treesy„ covered wit^>
lovely blossom; the canalitself almost'cboked with-boaiM
conveying passengers and their goods to new homes, ren
der this ever varying scene an object of constantly renew|4 )
admiration. The fields of rye, wheat, Indian corn, oats,
barley, peas, clover and grass, all looking rich and ver-
dantin the extrerae, presented a fine appearance of.riiral
peri'ection. /I he cattle was certainly an e:KceptiQn,;Seetn<'
ingly both poor and of indifierent breed. . The hoKes
were not so bad. The Little ^alls, or ^rather rapid^^fe-
s^iisa si^ene «f the imist romantic wsMum whjcb ia»«^-

tJNITED STATES. 89
iraiion can conceive — high hills clothed to their very sura-
aiiit with most stately and beautiful trees, interspersed
with huge rocks of the most grotesque character, whilst
the river agitated, foaming, and brawling in a torrent,
renders the contrast sublirae. For two miles the canal
is thirty feet above the river, and forras its bank ; the great
enterprise of the Araericans is here wonderfully displayed
in taking tbe canal through a solid rock, quite sufficient
to daunt any people but those resolutely bent on giving
encouragement to the coraraercial and agricultural inters
ests of the country. A raarble aqueduct of great elegance
passes over the Mohawk river, and terminates in a basin
in the town. There are several churches in the town: in
itself not otherwise interesting.

CHAPTER IX.

May 21st, passed through the rich and luxuriant level
called the German Flats: although every place we saw
presented sorae proof of the mischief caused by the flood,
Ithink it must have increosed the verdancy ofthe coun
try, the grass looked of the most vivid green and fine
growth, and the crops on the arable lands seemed very
promising. Both great and littie Herkiraer appeared two
rapidly rising villages, as several new houses were in pro
gress of erecition. I heard that many English farmers
had lately taken up their locatiou ih this neighbourhood.
Frankfort is the next town and seems very flourishing :
it has a population of 3,000 persons, and contains some
12

'^ UNITE,© ST.\TE3,
v^yftne briUdingl ; anew church, with a' lofty spire,
just completed, gives it an interesting character.
Uticals a place of very considerable trade, magnitode,
"?iud bemity. There are many fine churches, and other
public buildings, aud several large manufactories. It is
in general much liked by persous frora Great Britain,
seeing surrounded by a lovely and fertile country ; there
sre abundant means of travelling to all parts, and it is
fidmlrably situated for internal trade and agricultural
wealth. It contains a population of 9000 persons.
Wfjitesborpugh is remarkable for the length of its
street, a mile and three, quarters. It has a handsome
«ourt-hQuse, many elegant private houses, and is sur-,
rounded by fine large farras. Rome, although a flourish-i
ing and pleasant town, with a large arsenal, and surroun
ded by land of a superior quality and richly cultivated,
forms a remarkable contrast to the Niobe of nations. It
contains a population of nearly 5,000 persons. New Lon
don, seven miles from Rome, is a village on the skirts of
an extensive wood, where many new settlers were chop
ping and clearing. The land is well timbered with hard
wood, principally oak, ash, and eira, witb some beautiful
chesp.uts. It is well situated for mills and manufactories.
I saw many squirrels, and a great variety of the feath*
e^ed trihe m these woods : their notes possessing neiiheif
' the s'weetness iior power ofthe birdsin England, but their
pjiiunage fer more beautiful. .Tl^e tpnes?oJf the whip-r
^wi|) ar€ however plaintive aind; peci)ilia;V. There wa^
^ st^am saw-mill here at work o» the san>e principle as
tha^ adopted by the Messrs. TuUoeb in their intet'^stiiig
5tjw| e^easi've marble ,work% Esher-street, \^est?aai?s^p»
%KQna.is situi^tedon W«od Creek, it is surrou0d<9il by
l<^:ilR'!»fie§i M ^50ftta)«^ % popijlatioi^ of nearly 4sO0(?f^'
^sm:' \}\nm.9$^:m^ftjim clearingSi bvi.* it^h prins^l|S

UNITEB STATES. f^fi
known by the quantities of iron ore which abounds m it^
vicinity, and sand suitable for making glass. It has; a
large glass factory, Durhamville is an entireliy neW vil
lage, with several excellent stores, the houses are remark-'
ably clean and corainodioas ; there is" a very large m&
named after tbe place, immediately adjacent tP Oneldst
creek, extending twenty-five miles to the Oneida lake.
The canal is. here carried over the waters of this creek,'
and passes through a most fertile country. It is remark
ably picturesque, and the lands appear of the best quality :
the new settlements are progressing rapidly. At a short
distance "there is an Indian village. Lenox Basin is the
next settlement; there is a good bridge passes over the'
canal here, and the country on each side seems well set
tled and very fertile. Canastota is a neat, pretty, antf
flourishing village : tbere are fine and extensive pastured
round it — met here for the first time several Indians — the
houses are lofty and well built — the fectPries appeal^ very
flourishing, and tbe tout ensemble exhibits the appeai'ancd
of wealth and prosperity. There are" four gbod bridges
over the canal', and the roads are represented round this
part of tbe country as excellent. There is a fine large
basin here, surrounded by ware-houses'. New Boston li
a smalP village, containing fewhouseS,but the land around
it is apparently of the finest quality. There is from this
plaee a most beaotffiil hanging wood of bass; elth, maple,
hickory, chesnut, heralbck, and' oak gracefully fringing
the banks ofthe canal', and extehding:' nearly severt niiles.
At Chittenihgo, the next village, there are several fine-
houses, spacious inns, tfwo new churches, aTrtd exc'ellfetfC
farms around it. Thisr isa very' fertile and pittutii$(^
country; There is a large boat buildfei"^8 here; unddi^ th6
house is a dock foftfie'repairs and sheltei" of boats. frtTm
tbi? village tb Manfius;- fine' dJfW^fieldk; goodtirPtiSdsVtfhTt

92 t/NlTED- STATKS.
large orchards, are seen on both sides of the canal. There
are several haralets between this and Lime-stone Creek,
a creek, with a fine canal leading to the flourishing and
picturesque village of Orville, a mile and a half distant.
A splendid grove, of majestic butter-nut trees, fringes the
margin of the canal here for a considerable distance.
Orville is on the turnpike road between Utica and Syra
cuse, in the centre of a rich and flourishing, agricultural
district. Syracuse is a flourishing place and carries on a
most extensive trade ; a side canal branches ofi" from it
to Salina, where the celebrated salt works coveringf600
acres of ground are to be seen. Tbe buildings in Syra
cuse are in general of a superior description, and mostly
brick. It was only fourteen years before, a forest, now,
a handsome and elegant town. The Syracuse Hotel is
a most noble brick structure, four stories high: frora the
cupola at the top is a most varied, extensive, and magnifi
cent prospect, combining the canal, tbe Onondaga lake,
the village of ^ Salina, and a rich agricultural country.
This is by far the best route to Canada, by the Salina
canal, the Onondaga lake, and the Oswego Canal, to lake
Ontario. It is a saving in time, distance, and expense to
lake this route, in preference to that either by Rochester
or Lockport : and any individual whp ,has once experi-.
enced the comfort of the Oswego Hotel, and the kindness
and attention paid to travellers by Mr. Ives, would nevar
think of proceeding further than Syracuse on the Erie
canal, if his ultiraate destination is Upper Canada^ From
here to Jordan, passing by the villages of Geddysburg 
nine mile creek, a tributary from the Onondaga lake,^,
Camillus, and Canton, the country is in progress of set
tling, and the growing crops- appear very promising. At
this village a large and well finished hotel is e^cected, called
Union lUU. Weed's Port is si<;uated in a very fertile

UNITED STATES. 93
district, rapidly increasing, two very bandsohie churchest
have been erected, sorae fine bouses and taverns, and it
appears a place of considerable trade — the pastures are
very luxuriant, and the crops, growing in the raidst of
stumps, looked very flourishing. At Port Byron there is
a raost extensive flour raill, turned by a delightful stream,
running into the Cayuga lake ; it has ten run of stones
constantly at work. At Lake Port there are branch
canals diverging to the right and left, to the lakes Cayuga
and Seneca. At a short distance before arriving at tbe
bead ofthe Cayuga lake, several long and elegant bridges
are erected, and here are miles and railes Pf the finest
possible raarsh land. After passing over this extensive
marsh, the canal winds through a beautllul grove of lofty
and majestic button wood trees, very sirailar to the Eng
lish sycaraore. This lovely grove extends tbree miles,
and is as splendid a woodland scene as T ever beheld.
The day was most serene and agreeably warm (May '24,)
and I was delighted with the exquisite plumage of the
scarlet, yellow, and blue birds with whicb these woods
abounded : all nature seemed teeming with life, and ar
rayed in its holiday livery. There are three varieties of
the blackbird, one, black altogether, beak and feet : ano-
, ther black, with the exception of sorae bright crimson in
the wings : tbe third called the bobbylirik, with a littie
admixture of white in his wing ; its notes are so peculiar
and difficult of iraitation, that even the mocking bird
cannot successfully catch thera. Along tbe banks of tbe
canal to Clyde, the country .is finely wooded with maj^e,
beech, and basswood trees. The canal runs along the
side pf a small river called the Clyde, on which a new
village.named after it, has been formed, cotiskisting of sev
eral large and well built houses, with taverns and church-'
es.. The land in the vicinity is extremely good, and the

94 UNITED STATES.
windings of the river, with its gently rising and prettify
wooded banks, renders it a delightful and very pleasing
vaWey. The church is an elegant structure ; tbere are
several good factories, and one glass house of great size.
Tbe Clyde river, forraed by the outlet of Canandalgua
lake and Mud Creek,unite at Lyons, the capital of Wayne
eoiinty, and one ofthe prettiest towns on the whole route
©f the canal. The population exceeds 4,000. It is nor
possible to conceive a situation more judiciously selected
for a town than this. The beautiful low banks of the
Clyde thickly studded with butternut and sugar maple
trees, of raajestic growth, surrounded by fine large ordi-'
ards of the choicest; fruit trees — extensive corn-fields and
meadows — the canal above it with a noble overbangiug
wood on its banks — the neat houses and churches of Lyw
ons— the well laid out gardens, filled with choice flowers
and fruit trees, all conspire to render this town a scene of
rural beauty and prosperity not to be surpassed. There
is an agricultural and an horticukural society here, an^
many English and Scotch fanners have settied in this
charraing vicinity. After leaving this place, there are
several small, but increasing villages, but the land becoraes
swampy; between Busbnell's and Piltsford, the great ei®-
bankment of tbe Erie canal coraraences. It must have
been a work of prodigious labour, its elevation above the
surrounding country, being at least seventy feet. The
pix>speot from it is very extensive^ ^ Pittsford is an interest^
ing village, s^urrounded by land of excellent quality^, eon-
taining many liargOj well built houses, with a church sur
mounted by a spirfrof ejftraordinary beauty; The inter-
vening county to Rochester, a distance of ten mllesj is
very fine and in progress of clearing; Rochester} in 1812;
was a deep forest, the retreat of the wolf and'the panther :
it now contains a population of more than 14,000^ persons-,

UNITED STATES. 95
twelve or fourteen cbui-ches, many splendid buildings,
and a collection of mills and manufactories, scarcely to be
equalled in any portion of Araerica. Our boat was
weighed at Rochoster— the method of weighing is curious,
though simple. The boat is conveyed on to the scales by
water, tbe scales being forced below it by the boat-^'the
water is then turned off at a lock, leaving the boat sus
pended on a large stillyard, by means of heavy chains.
'Ihe frame work on which this stillyard rests, and to
which it is attached, is accurately poised by weights in
the opposite scale, bringing it into an exact balance ; the
weights superadded give the precise weight ofthe boat, by
which the tolls are regulated. Tbe packet bpats on the
canal are drawn by three horses, and travel much more
expeditiously than the line boats which are drawn by two
only ; the accoraraodations are also considered superior,
persons who wish to see as much as possible the country
through which they pass, should travel by the latter tQa-
venience, as they can walk on tbe banks of the canal as
they please, and still keep pace with tbe boat.
Tbere are 13 large flour mills at Rochester, with 52
run of stones, making annually 350,000 barrels of flour.
Through tbe kindness of the proprietor, I had an oppor
tunity of examing the largest flour mill — it has 16 run of
stones, and can make 500 barrels of flour daily. The
canal aquediict over the Genesee river, at this place, is
one of the most gigantic works on the whole canal line.
There are many saw-raills, tanneries, and manufactories :
indeed the water powef supplying the works equally On
both sides ofthe river, is almost as incredible as it is in-
exhaustibta One raill covers more than two acres^ o£
ground, and fifteen millLon feet of lumber are fawed here
annually. Immediately below the town are the gresr
G«B«see fells 0190 feet, exten^ng across the river, Wirrcft

OQ ' UNITED STATES.
is of good breadth. Never having before seen a fall of
water of great raagnitude, I was quite astonished at the
magnificence of the scene, and continued for some time
gazing at It In rapturous wonder. At Carthage, tvvo miles
distant, tbere is another fall of 70 feet, surrounded by a
romantic country, and the splendid expanse of Ontario in
front. Merchandise to and from lake Ontario, forward
ed from Rochester, is raised or lowered down the great
and steep descent of tbe Genesee, by raeans of an inclined
plane, the descending weight raising a lighter one.
The following stateraent of the mechanical and manu
facturing operations of tbis village are extracted from a
Rochester paper :

INVESTMENT.

ANNUAL AMOUNT.

Flouring Mills

$ 281,000

$,1,331,000.

Cotton do.

56,000

30,000.

Woolen do.

70,000

112,000.

Leather &c.

25,000

166,000.

Iron Works

24,000

46,000.

Bifles, &c.

3,000

5,000.

Soap and Candles,

6,000

45,000.

Groceries, &c.

21,000

32,800.

Tobacto,

4500

18,000.

Pails, Sash, &c.

2,500

12,000.

Boat Building

11,000

- 40,200.

Linseed Oil,

3,000

4,000.

Glove Factories,

10,000

15,000.

$ 571,000

$ 1,857,000.

Since completing the account of Rochester frora my
notes, I have been enabled to add tbe following raore
recent account of this very thriving and important town.
FLOURING MILLS AT ROCHESTER.
Amid the multitude of machinery with which the Genesae is studded,
the flouring establishments are conspicuous. There are now within
the city of Rochester twenty-one mills, with ninety-five runs of stone,
capable of manufacturing five thousand barrels per day. Twenty thous
and bushels of wheat are daily required for these mills when in full
4},peratioB. The immense consumption ofthe raw material oecasioned
by such an extensive manufacture, furnishes to the rich wfaeat-gcowiflgr

UNITED STATES. 97
region around Rochester a ready market, while it draws considerable
supplies (rom the shores of Erie and Ontario. Besides the wheat drawn
from ihe eurrounding countrj' and from Ohio, some of the Rochester
millers imported in 1835 from Canada (subject to heavy duty) about
1)10,000 bushels.
Three of the above mentioned mills have been erected last year, and
considerable iuiprovement has been made in some ofthe others. These
three mills contain seventeen runs — which, with the seventy-eight runs
in the other eighteen mills, forms the total of ninety-five runs.
As has been remarked in the "Traveller's Guide*', published by Da
vidson of Saratoga, "some of the Rochester mills are on ascale of magni
tude unsurpassed in the world ; all are considered first rate in the per
fection of their machinery, and so effective is the whole flouring appa
ratus, that there are several single runs of stones which can grind (and
the machinery connected therewith bolt and pack) one hundred barrels
of flour per day !" And such is the character and extensive demand
for the article, that beside the quantity shipped for foreign countries,
the "Rtichester brands," may be seen equally at Montreial or Wash
ington — at Ctiiebec or New York — at Boston, Hartford, Charleston, or
New Orleans. The total amount of capital invested in the twetifty-one
jnills exceeds half a million of dollars (640,000) as was ascertained on
a lafe accurate examination, by Thomas H. Rochester, Esquire, one
of a CotHmittee appointed by the Common Council to collect the stat
istics of the city. Williams' "Annual Register" for 1835,' mentions
the. Rochester millsas only fourteen in number, with sixty-four runs of
stone — but, by the stateraents here made, it will be seen that the mills
are one-third more numerous, and the capital invested about double the
araount given in the Register; The avidity with which mill property
has been s'ougiit, atrd the additions made to it during the present sea
son, indicate clearlystrOng confidence in its perraanent worth.
The water-power of the two great falls at Rochester is estimated as
equal to 1,920 steam engines of twenty horse power. The total value
of this wateir-povfer, calculated according, to the cost of steam power in
England, is almost incredible to those unacquainted with such sub
jects — amounting as it would to nearly ten millions of dollars (9,718-
2?2) for its annual use.
, Wheti in connecstion with this vast water-power we consider the great
f^gilities which Rochester enjoys (by lake, canal and ritrer) for receiv
ing wheat and other raw materials from, and shipping ivpur and' other
maniifactures'fbr, all desirable points pither in the United States' or the
Canadas^ we may- fully appreciate the importance of the pi^felfltJwUr^
13

S8 CNlTEli STATES*
ing and manufacturing establishthents, and confidently anticipate the
continued prosperity and protective greatness of the city." y
This is another route to Upper Canad^, as Rochester
is but seven miles distant from lake Ontario, and con
nected with it by rail road. '1 be steara-boats of lake
Ontario land and take in passengers at Rochester. Al
though tbis route Is preferable to that by Lewiston, I
¦think Oswego Is still the best ; it is situated on the lake
itself, is but thirty-eight railes frora Syracuse, whereas
Rochester is 100, and then seven miles frora the lake, the
difference in crossing over to Canada, whether from
Rochester or Oswego, being of no account.
After leaving Rochester, the next three villages on the
canal, are built on tbe site of basins connected with side
streams, consisting of -a few, ware-houses, inns, and pri
vate dwellings. Spencer's Basin, Adara's Basin, and
Cooley's Basin. The country between Cooley's Basin
and Brockport is very fine, the soil of superior quality,
and extensively cleared. JSrockport is a handsome and
stirring place, 'houses extremely neat, mills and factories
nuraerous and extensive— ^the churches commodious and
well built — the farras large and the land good. There are
few places on the canal presenting better appearances of
corafort and prosperity. Tbe country between this place
and Oak Orchard, twenty-four miles, presents the same
apifiearance of new villages, land recently cleared, orch
ards newly raade, and from the size and quality of the
tlbiber, tbe indication of a rich soil. Oak Orchard is
very beautifully situated; there is a ^fine fall of water,
rushing down a steep precipice, into a stream which
meanders through a roraantic glen, finely diversified with
trees of var^us kinds and growths: imraediately above,
and overlooking the falls, is a handsorae stone bridge—
Ji^^bwtues look neat and well finished builtjiijgs, and

UNITED STATES. 93
the houses comfortable. MIddleport and Reynold's Basin
are surrounded by choice land, and have the advantage
of excellent roads. At Gosport there is a burning spring
which emits a large quantity of gas — a stream of it is di
rected into a lamp, which is ignited at night and gives a
powerful light. Between this place and Lockport, the
land is very good, and the new settlements large and
prosperous. At Lockport Is tbe last of the series of locks
to Lake Erie, which brings the Rochester level to that of
Erie— it is effected by five double locks of twelve feet
each. The upper and lower village are divided by the
locks — the upper above the locks, the lower beneath them,
Lockport has three excellent taverns, and tbere are sev
eral very handsorae buildings in both towns, especially a
church and terrace in the Lower. The farms are large
and well Cultivated round Lockport, especially towards
lake Ontario, and those skirting on the ridge road. In
many of the ©rchardis very choice fruit trees had been
planted." I saw sorae Indian boys at Lockport who
were very expert with the bow and arrow; they contin
ued arausing the spectators a long tirae by hitting a cent
fixed in a stick, at twelve paces distant. They^were ve- '
ry dexterous raarksmen, and received the cent "^as their
reward, every tirae they struck it with the arrow. Tbe
Indians have two settlements near Lockport'; one at
Tbnawanta, the other at Tuscarora.
May 28. Most dreadful thunder and lightning storm :
the lightning was awfully grand. 29th and 30th, rode
round the country looking at new farms, and lands for
sale on the Ridge Road. We came, in the woods, to a
place in j^rogress of setriement, where General Dearborn's
array encaraped. On many of the trees the Officers and
men had carved their names : they were still in good
preservation, "with uncouth rhymes and shapd^ss sciilp-

100 UNITED STATES,
turesdecked." By this time, the axe has levelled most of
them with the gi'ound. The majestic exuberance of these
forest.trecs, particul?irly the huge and stately black wal
let, jsituated in deep and romantic glens, with purling
brooks of limpid water running through them: the more
gentle apd retiring beauty ofthe newl^ formed, rich and
verdant meadpws : the prpmising appearance of the in-
jant corn-fields, aided by the delightful breezes wafted
from the magnificeiit waters of Lake Ontario, rendered
this a very agr,ejpable excursion. The botanist in tine^e
deep woods woijild find an alraost in,exbau&tible source of
amusement and ii),strue|tion in the great vaiiety of .raedi-
cjnal and oth^r pjants with which they abouad.
June J St. Went to seethe new roads ^prmlng ^rona
Lockport, the one to BiiJ^JlQ, effecting a a»vli?g, of dig-
taupe pf eight n^iljBs, apd jthe otlier to tlie Falls, ne4f,e|;
than the present rpute by tlfirteen- June §^4' L^ft
jfjopjspprt for Ypungstown, tptake th^ steafpbppt f^r-Pp-
per Canada. The woods are only very partjally c)ear-
ef:J, anji tlie roads in the most miserable cgnditipi^. My
friend decjared ijigit pothil^g shpuld iii|(Juce hiip to tpia^yei
tlie saipe road again in one ftf t|}e pr^zy stages. Jij g^^-r
dition to ^l^e jo}|;ing, we wpre frpqupptly iti sf.t^si\ (^gflgejTi
and received so piany l:|ruis(?s tha| yt?e did RP,t rpcpver
frotfl the effect^ for sevefai jiays. Thp reaspn ^hy \
have deviated so much frpm tfie gepef aility ftf ^fltefs, iR
giving so dififHse ail acpp^^nf qf t|:^e Yl^^f'SP^? ?^"4 pevy set-
tlptiientf fprraing, along this hnp 9f country, if to render.
to thosf farfl^^s, Intending tq settle in the States, some
ijdea of the qpufltify where most British settlers have:al-
ij'eady fixe^ their hahijit£^tions, ajasi where, iff gqod laud;,.
i^Pde^^te prjces^r it, contlguqus naackets, facilities for
F^ljigious \yq^^hip, a,tid edgcatloM for their, families^ ar«
iudu^,enj€^ts— ^ifl §till maint^imh.e pufeferenceta Illinois

UNITED STATES. 101
Michigan or any other portions of the United States.
Buffialo is situated at the extreraity of the Erie Canal.
It is 20 miles from Chippawa, and 22 from the Falls. It
is a port of entry and capital of Erie county, in New-
York State. It Is built on tbe north-east side of Buffalo
Creek, a considerable stream whicb joins the lake half a
mile below. It contains a population of nearly 14,000: —
has splendid hotels, a court-house, jail, bank, several
churches, a fine pier of 1 ,000 feet in length, a raagnifi
cent exchange in progress of erection: and being situated
on the best channel of intercourse between the Atlantic
and the western regions, must becorae a great eraporiura
of trade. Its inhabitants are amongst the most enterpri
sing ofour neighbours, and it is raost gratifying to wit
ness the spirit, energy and enthusiasm which they evince
in any raeasure connected with tbe prosperity and ad
vancement of their country. Several rail-roads are in
contemplation; they seera all aniraated with the spirit of
De Witt Clinton, feeling a certainty that these channels
of comraunication being opened, create capital, bring
forth the latent resources of a country, are the means of
its iramediate 'settlement, and conduce to accelerate the
progress of civilization, which raight otherwise remain
dormant for years, especially if these auxilaries to nation
al prosperity were to be postponed until the settlement of
a country rendered them actually indispensi ble. It is this
energy which causes the Araerican always to be • in ad
vance of us.
Black Rock is on lake Erie, two railes north from
Buffalo, It is a sraall village with a harbour artificially im
proved by a pier, tbere is a ferry to Waterloo, or Fort
Erie, on the Canada side, three quarters of a mile in
width. Of Upper Canada I have much to say ih the next part.

CAMADA.

*' The settlement of Colonies in uninhabited countries — the estab
lishment of those in security; whose misfortunes have made their coun
try no longer pleasing or safe — the acquisition of property without inju*
ry to any^-the appropriation of the ^ waste and luxuriant bounties •of'
nature, and the enjoyment of those gifts which Heaven has scattered
upon regions Uncultivated ahd unoccupied, cannot be considered
without giving rise to a great number of pleasing ideas, and bewilder
ing the imagination in delightful prospect." — Johnson's lifeof Savage
" There is no occasion to exaggerate, where plain truth is of so
much weight and importance. But whether I put the present members
too high or too low, is a matter oflittle moment. Such is the strength
with which population shoots in that part of the world, that state the
numbers as high as we will, whilst the dispute continues, the exagger
ation ends. Whilst we are discussing any given raagnitude, they are
grown to it. Your children do not grow faster from infancy to man
hood, than they spread firom families to Communities and from viUl^ges
to nations." — Burke's Speech on- conciliation with America.

CHAPTER X.

The great drawback to the prosperity of England is her
iraraense population, corapared with the labour required
of thera — the extent of surface, fertility of soil, salubrity
of cliraate, rail roads, canals, new villages, and an im
raense country being rescued frora a wilderness, renders a
great augraentation of population of pararaount advant
age to Canada, and without which her present capacities
must be neglected — and whilst emigration would so ma-

104 ' UPPER CANADA.
terially improve Canada,what blessings it might impart to
thousands of poor and deserving inhabitants of the mother
country. In attempting to lessen the numbers of the
people by eraigrattom^ and also to improve tbe condition
of all parties interestedy-namely, those who emigrate, and
those who reraain in the mother country, one thing is
obvious-— that a district is kno^n to exist, and is at the
comjupndof the parties which offers advantages, gireater
than^ arefiOssessediat horae. If it were not s6', emigra-
tiittn would'fail in its raain object, and would tend to ag-
^ravatethe evil sought to be removed, because the parties
emig^"ating> instead of. betieringi thelc condition, wpijlil
render it worse, and the mother country would not only
be taxed: with the expense of conveying them to tbdr
destination, but from the reisponsibility v^ith which it is(
bound"to them as a Colbny, would also have to conttlbute
more to their maintenance than it did befbre, the valtie of
the means of support being materially enhanced' by the
cost of transferv The main object, that of- lesseniag'the^
ntf^^rsof the people, without diminishing the means of
subsistence' in the same ratio, would thus be frustrated ;
and as this is the only way by whichthe condition of a
people can ever be amended, when they have arrived at
the highest point, of profitable produeldoa, it is necessary
that it sbould be recognized* as a priraary and fixed prin
ciple, whether speculating "on these raatters, or carrying
them into actcmlpracticer <
Notfvitijstandingj the advantageous: nature ofacoun-
tf^»;i|nd which eauses it to be chQsa)>, as fit for cojoni^^^
tion^ emigiratipn will be maiffly dependant for it;s> sueCjss&y
;^p>n the talent and ijidustryconifKised amongst theem-
i^«ants, arid upon^tl^e constant and unremitting oieana of
^bsistence, ortayailabie substitutes, for them, spdnging
up in a ^Maneoijs pvofiisieti,;, eiven wltere tbe^atesc

UPPEB CANADA. \0q
fertility exists, but that the same industry and persever
ance must in some measure be exe^-cised, which was re
quired of them in the mother eounlry : the results fi'oni
idleness and indifference being in this state, asiualloih-
vrs, uniformly productive of ruinous consequences and
degradation : whilst frora the opposite course ojf .copidJ(iier,
with superior advantages than the mother country, ben;efits
naturally accrue far greater than are enjoyed by ber-r-^nd,
this it is wbich must always make emigration d^if^hlp,
to men who wish to improve their cp»di,tion. If no cer
tain advantage existed, and which altjaost plaices thje end,
uf the speculatiou beyond a doubt, no thinking men, sm\\.
as are reaJly fit for emigration, woiUjld embark in it ; nudj
a^S; the belief in an Eldorado, is now expioded, even
amongst the most visaouarj, men are awQr,ej that ihe
means of a comfortable subsistence, dependiS entirely upon
unreraitting exertion ; and when there ip a certainty (pjf
its being obtained upon these terms, they ^fc aJwayg vyiir
llng to exercise them, and it will be found, tl^ ea^rj^^
tion offers wojidei-fiil advantages worthy of their csonade-
ratjon, whether the mother country bei;elie^«diby encoui"-
sging them to eosugrate or not. The facts that lead n?e
to this cojjjclusion nre of ready dempns,tratipfli. Tih(|y, are,
first — The smaMness ofthe engagements «f the Ci9fe>sny«
whicb under proper managemeut, are only such as ca,iii'-
not be dispensed with, and the existence of wlitiqh are far
more beneficial than otherwise^ iaasmuchj thf^t tihejj coun
teract evjilsof aipreater magnitude than tl»^ costs afiyj^^
tbey are maintained. Second"— The're h^ng m P&«pef
population, according lo the accefttation ^f the jejpip j^u,
thickly popisdated coimtries, in-f^j^istetee,, m^, jfi^.eWMs
of the old country are avoided, as we w^j| a t^^lffi^v^m
beacon, not even the germ ^lo'^lS^ jl;l^jS5PPJ¥tB«»^iOf
ev^ ^oducin^ it ;— ssa tib^ w^j3it^;er .©f iJm ui&m^ of*

W6 UPPER CANADA.
suibsistenee is produced, will belong exclusivcry to rfle'
producer, excepting so much as is really necessary, for
dflfording mutual protection, and whhihit is his interest ta
afford ; and it will not have to be dirairiished to satisfy a
series t)l" oppressive andtorinioiis liuposts, or to adrainister
tb the necessities of an idle or unproductive Deig,hbour.
One fact here obtrudes itself upon our notice, aad that
is, that a lazy, profligate; untalented set of emigrants
eould never much amend, if at all, their situation by emi
gration. To the individuals who* do- emigrate, if they
make ajudidous^electlon of the partof the- world tbey
intend to settle in, there is a certainty oftheir circumstan
ces being iraproved, and particularly as :p:nglaHd is situa
ted, overpowered by burthens that are unexampled in'
ancient dr modern tiraes. ¦ A removal from Great Britain
to Canada, must be a change materially for the better,
and all wha take advantage in emigriition of either goii'
vernment projetts, or of other circumstances, will never ;
rep<*it ; that is, if they are determined to exert themselves
and sacrifice their prejudices to their happiness.
Feeling. deeply fi)r the planters in the West Indies, and
knowHig from the fatal experienceof St.'Dotoiingo and'
odier places,- how uncertain the tenure of their prosperity
is, and dreading least after 1840, their bright prospects
may be 'destroyed,' I would strongly urge' thein to invest
all their stfrplus capital ' in the Banks, and other public
works in Canada, which wiir give them extraortiinary
profit on their investment ; and if to^that, they purchase
in good situations, a choice 'farra,'they can look forward
with a certainty to a refuge-against any of the calamities
which may await thein, consequent on the alteration in
their social system. * ' •. « •;
TMre are two classes of persons to whom emigration
espe^ally holds out ihe^ost soUd fedvankges,' viz, indua- '

UPPER CANADA. 103'
itrieus. agricultural labourers, and persons with small cap
ital, having, or likely to have, large families. Theforppier
are certain of employraent and full rerauneration, and
sinpe benevolent societies have been formed from Quebec
to Hamilton, to give InformatioB to emigrants where they
can find employraent, relieve tbem if necessitous, and
provide for thera if overtaken by sickness, no one, how
ever poor, need apprehend any thing, but iraproveraent
to his circumstances, by coraing to Canada. I shall have
occasion to show how the venerable and benevolent Earl
Egremont has benefitted hundreds of poor persons, whom
he rescued frora the tyranny ofthe work-houses, and sent
to happiness and independence in Canada. . This digni^
fied and philanthropic Baron has. In a great degree, fur
nished the means of sending thirteen thousand poor per
sons to this Province. The latter, if mechanics, or been
*ifi©d to farm small patches of land in England, themselves,
are certain of supcess — I shall produce instances of this.
But truth compels me to say that otbers, who.have.come
to Canada with a tolerable capital, but who have been
ailways accustoraed to the -elegance, refinements, and lux
uries of civic life, lured by the cheapness of wild land,
and desirous of becoming owners of a tract of 500 or 1000
acres, have exhausted a great portion of their capital, and
have endured privations and distress alraost inconceiva
ble. Remote from market — secluded from society — at a
distance from mills,alraost inaccessible for want of roads —
without medical aid, and altogether debarred the privilege
of public worship they find theraselves on their new
estate, with an axe in their hand ; labour difficult to be
procured and extravagantly high ; in the raidst of a thick
Ibrest, whose lofty tre^s are to be displaced by a labour
alinost Herculean, before they can erect the most hninble
:sheUer, or cultivate the smallest patch. In this state of

108 tliPPER CANiD.^.
MFfiiessnesS andmi.sery they are surprised by a C.^-
nadian Winter of four or five raonths diirarion, become
kickened, disappointed, disgusted, beartbroken, and not
iihfrcr^uently die. A very melancholy- instance of this
hathrecartie undeiMny observation last autumn. They
tievcr take Intcf calculation the expense of clcTtring aiid
fcnciui^, which if they were to superadd to the cost of
thcii wild land', would prove they were actuaUy making
a worse teai'gai'h, and a dearer purchase, than purchasing
a /arm partiafly cleared, with a house, buildings, and
orrihard, independent of the other obvious advantage's-^
facilities for public worship and education — post-office —
good rda'dg^, near neighbours, proximity to market, raills,
and other stores. Married men, with families and small
eafvital. Say from £100 or less to £300, sbould never think
of buyihg land at flnst-^tbey ought either to rent a farm,
or take one on shares fdr thi-ee or, five years. Opportu-
nifle.s of renting farms are frequently to be met with; A
ret'eiu insiahce bas occurred within my own observation,*
of A respectable yOUhg couple having rented a farm with-
itV tU'O miles of Ancaster, fbr four years, consisting of 90
aere*! of cleared land, witb a bouse, barn, good otcliard'-i^
the tise of a span df hdrses and 12 ewes — 15 acres of
fallow grotriid, and ten awes of good grasi to commence
with, the tvhdle for £3S sterling- a year. No-pei-son can
deny that by his own labour and industry, an excellent
livitig may be made from such a farra, and a good
itisSghliibiaSned^brtbe tduntry at a very reasonable rate.
If perisdtts of small .capital buy land, it absorbs all their
caprtAlj and leaves nothing for stdck or iraprdVfemerit ;
oi' otte instalmtfnt is paid, and. they are burdeneti with a
hieavy interest in the balance, and a risk of losing the
prbl)teny if th^ fail in defraying the siSb^equent instal
ments and interest. Theinterest ^'ould nearfy pay the*

UPPER CANADA. 109
rent oi a partially cleared farm, and the capital could be
employed. to a much better and more profitable account —
laid out in stock or other more productive investment than
wild land, three-fourths of wbich cannot be turned to any
advantage for many years. A person of similar - raeans,
with less ambition and more judgment, has purchased
a farm, in a well settled neighbourhood, of 200 acresj
with 100 cleared and in cultivation ; on it a GOmfortable
house, and well stocked, which will cost frora £750 lo
£10C0, he is then surrounded by the raeans of good living :
js within the reach of society ; has a school 'and church
and post-office In the viciility, becomes independent and
prosperous, with the opportunity before hira, of well pro
viding for his children. He-puFchases the farm of an old
settler, who again retires to the distant wood-, to clear
another for his own family, or sorae future small cafMt-al-
istj The persons who are best adaptedand calculated for
clearing wild land, and the'^only classes who turn it to
profitable account are the natives of this ProvinGe, and
farraers from the United States, who being perfectly well
acquainted with the description oflabourto be perforraed,
and the difficulties necessary to be undergone, are quite
in their element on a lot df wild land. If a person will'
not hesitate to sacrifice many comforts and luxuries of an
old settled country, to obtain the raore solid advantages
of a less crowded population and a cheaper soi-l-Mo with
draw from the burdens and difficulties, without retiring
from tbe protection of his native land, and without in
volving himself with obligations to another government
wbich migbt make him the enemyof his o:wri-^to settle
though in a distant Colony, eiaiongst his felloVv country
men and fellow Subjects, perhaps his very townsmen and
jifeighbours^ within means of mstruction for his children
and Opportunities of public worship for his family, there

110 UPPER CANADA,
is no question but with industry and frugality hemust
succeed; ' I bave scarcely beheld a njore gratifying spec
tacle than that which is witnessed every summer in this
Province when Lord Egremont*s emigrants arrive.—
Crowds whohave become happy frora the benevolence of
tins good man, meet their neighbours as they proceed
through;the country, congratulating and cheering them,
bidding them heartily welcome, and speaking the tones
of joy ^nd gladness, and -Assuring theraof their certain suc
cess if they are sober and industri&us. To meet with the
sarae men with whom the}' have formerly worked, and.
shared the same privations and difficulties : and to
see them prosperous, and happy, is a stimulus that nothing
can compare with, to take the sarae means in ensuring
the same succeos.
In England, the agricultural interest is nearly ruined.
The following pathetic letter was sent to JVleshech Stamp,
an agricultural labourer, who was sent out, with his
brother, from a poor house in Sussex, by the virtuous
Lord Egremont, from his sister in England. JVleshech is
earning, with his -wife, on a farra at Ancaster, seventeen
dollars per month all the year round, having their fire
<^ood and house found them, with occasional presents :
and another bas constant einployment atBraotiord — tbey
have saved sufficient money between them to buy a vil
lage lot (and house at Brantford.
[Sec Letter No.l in. the Appendix.']
Observe how feelingly she speaks of the happiness of
her brothers in Canada, and her desire that her brothers
in England, who had plenty of wOrk, might be equally'
so. Who can read unmoved, the account she giyesof the
vVork-houses all over England ? once happy, merry Eng
land, where pSH'erty is punished by confinement-r-hard
work —hard foOd, and transpoilation frora tlieir horaes.

t'PPEU CANADA. Ill
Husbands separated from their wives, and children from
their parents. Wbat pious resignation does she exhibit,
io speaking of her remembrance of her absent brothers,
when at Church I How earnestly she desires particulars
of the country where they are so happy : and wbat a
picture of fraternal love has she not drawn in the request
that at least once a year tbey will write to afford ber fam
ily in England tbe conrfbrt of hearing of their brother's
prosperity. What a shocking contrast is this to contem
plate, that whilst thousands have been rescued from pov
erty by coming to Canada — raade happy — had the means
afforded them of sending money horae to their friends to
enable thera to come out, there should still be thousands
left behind who would greatly enrich this country by their
labour, and make theraselves comfortable and indepen
dent, who, now are doomed to spin out their wretched
lives on food that is barely sufficient to support thera, and
which renders their wan and meagre appearance sorae
thing like that of the half-starved apothecary in Shake-'
speare's tragedy of Romeo and Juliet, of whora Roraco
delivers the following animated description :
"Art thou so base, and full of wretchedness.
And fear'tft to die? Famine is in thy cheeks,
Need and oppression starveth in thy eyes,
Upon thy back hangs ragged misery;. —
, - The world is not thy friend, nor the world's law;
The world afibrds no law to raake thee rich."
The principle on which they act is, tbat parents who
are giving birth to children tbey are unable to support,
are to be reraoved to a well disciplined workhouse, se
parated, and made to work hard, until they had shown
that they can be returned to sodety without becoming a
burthen to it, either as regards themselves or their child
ren. The grand affair seems to be lost sight of, that the
inability to support themselves and faraiUes, does nos

112 ' UPPER CANADA.
ppa^eed from them, but their inability to obtain work, and
proper remuneration for it. The quantity of' food is to
be less than that, of a free labourer, and ofa coarser kind,
and be is corapelled to work harder.
Another of the labourers whom Lord" Egremont sent
out frora an English work house and who settled near
Ancaster is now the owner ofa farm of fifty acres,' twen
ty of wbich are cleared,with a log house, a span of hors(^s,
a waggon, a cow, hogs, poultry, &c. In addition to this,
be sent home last year the raeans to enable his brother
and his wife to come to Canada, whicb they did at his
r^equest, and are like him doing welL
How much more creditable to the government— how
honorable to the nation — how much raore beneficial to
the Parishes, to. have furnished the means to poor, indus-
t^-ious labourers to.euiigrate, than to decree that confine-
ipent in their. la;&ar-houses should be the penalty of want
o.fwark. They trepan or impress thera to fight their,
battles both by sea and land, to explore their mines, to
e^ect theiir splendid buildipgs, and to undergo perilotis
voyages for tbe promotion of trade and science — 'then, af^
ter a long life spent in these laborious pursuits, if they
require sotne small relief they are to be consigned, to a
Government Work-House, there to end their days in rai
sery. I have said, that emigration offers great advanta
ges to those sturdy and powerful Brirish farmers who
h^ave always accustomed theraselves and their farailies to
the labour ofa farm. , An individual pf this description
from Hampshu-e came out to this Province, and bought
1000 acres of land, ten miles distant from London, in the
London Dj^U-ict He brought with him four stout, able
bodied sons; they have now by thdr conjoint exertiqns
cleared 75 fifares,— got a comfortable Jiofuse, goo^ barn,
plenty of stock, the raeans oi" hap|dness vKitl^n themselves

UPPER CANADA. 113
now, the certainty of It, as far as human ' foresight can
determine, for their respective families in future. Mr.-
JMudie In his valuable little work called the Emigrant's
Pocket Companion, speaking of the paternal solicitude
that would induce a parent to emigrate with a view to
provide for a numerous family, says : "There can be no
more rational and even praiseworthy ground of emigra
ting than that ; and he who can clearly act upon it, who
sees how tbose children who are a burden to him in the
country where he is. may be wealth and comfort to him
in the country to whieh he is going — and that their joint
labour will not fail to place all who are dear to hira iu
independence and even in affluence, when he shall be ta
ken from them —should by all means emigrate."
It requires but a very slight acquaintance with this
country to be well assured, tbat here, every poor man, if
he be industrious, can provide abundantly for his family.
by any kind of labour, manual Or mechanical : — for here
the poorer class ofthe people are free, from those imposts
and burdens, that exorbitant price for rent and all the
necessaries of life, and those scanty wages of productive
toil, which, so often, sends the European supperlesstobed,
moistens his pillow with the sweat of his brow, and be
dews his couch with the tears of unavailing anguish,
while his children cry unto hira for bread, and he has
none, wherewith to still their wailing, and to appease their
hunger. What an extensive field of employment for the practical
philanthropist Canada presents : what misery raight be
relievedr— there are indeed some illustrious instances of
philanthropy to be met with amongst the wealthy in Great
Britain, as in the case of Earl Egremont, Lord Hytesbury,
Marquis of Bute, Joseph Marriage of Chelmsford, and
others who have furnished the means qf emigration to the
15

114 ' UPPER CANADA.
honest 'and industrious poor in their immediate neighbour*
hood, contributing to their removal from scenes of bitter
flistress and strong temptarion to crime: enabling them to
'^iicchange beggary for Independence, starvation for plenty,
and idleness and disease for health and cxerdon. But
alas! the alleviation of the distress of the unfortunate
white man confers no public notoriety, sucb as the popu«
Jar cry of ".no slavery :" cbesides it would cost something,
and the catch'words of "suffering black brethren," and
^'immediate abolition," while they cost nothing, served
-Admirably to endorse theutterer with the character of a
person of the most sympathizing benevolence, and dis
tinguished virtue, and pointed him out as a superior can
didate for a seat in Parliaraent, The advantages of emi
gration to the home labourers would be, that instead of
pining away atid withering in an overstocked or exhaust
ed soil, they would go to strike root and flourish in one
full of noufishraent, and where there was ample room for
all. 1 have heard' that the patriotic Puke of Hamihon
has purchased a large district of country, for ibepurpostei
of settling on the easiest terms, all the unfortunate and-^
industrious poor in his vicinity.
In Canada the forests would be cleiared,. the ground
would be Gultiyated, and corn and hay would be r aised,"
where thistles and wild flowers now spring up ; towns
and villages, and hamlets, those numerous scenes offru--
gality, industry, raorality, and happiness, would iraprove,
enlarge and multiply; civilization would be carried out
over many parts tbat are now largie wildernesses and un
inhabited wastes ; arts and manufactures would be grad
ually introduced; the wealth of the Province and the
prosperity of all classes in it, would be increased — and
along with that its increasing value and impor tance W
the parent state, and its power and inclination of main-

' UPPER CANADAr 115
taining. its .rights against attacks from whatever quarter
they might emanate. There are sume incidental eircum-
stances which give Canada a vast pre-eminence over any
other British Colony, as a home for the surplus popula
tion of the mother, counti'y. Identity of language and.sira-
ilarlty of lavk'S are of great importance, but its^proximity
to Great Britain — the cheapness and facilities afforded in
coming out, and the numbers already settled, must proye
powerful inducements to tbose remaining behind, and
who are - hesitating where to go. However much our
American neighbours may press emigrants to remain with
fhem, and hold out to them every kihd and flattering,
prospects ; well knowing their wbrth in a country, where
forests are to be cleared, canals to be dug, and rail roads
raade ; yet, Mr. Mudie's observations are too true^ and
deserve most serious consideration. "Unless a Britoh re
nounces his country, he is an alien ; and if he does re
nounce it, and swear a foreign allegiance, he is always^
looked upon as a sort of renegade, and never attain,s that
consideration in the adopted country that he lost in the old
one. He raay accumulate wealth, fhough the situation iii
wbich he is placed is not the niost favorable even for that,.
but he can seldom, if ever, so far gain the confidence of
the strangers, as td rise to any office or station of Impcftrt-
ance. There are few countries under native and inde
pendent governments to whltih ah English Emigrant can'
have access, between' Which and England there are hot-
sorae remains of national jealotisy. Probably those re
mains are, in sOrae cases, becdrrilng less and less, but iti"
no case are they actually extinct; and, "in the United!
States of Aitfericfa; the only place where Englishj'orar
dialect of English, is the cdtrfmon language, thfej/^'^^
probably stronger than in any dtbef- country." ITie^
whole of Mr. Mudie'^ obseSfvMibits oh%hil sn!^ect-are not'

lis CPfER CAJfADi-
more severe than true, and are deserving of the most at
tentive regard. Captain Alexander states;—
*'A8 a link in the chain of.oppression, of inconvenience, and of hea
vy losses, to which emigrants were sometimes subjected, I may men
tion the following anecdote, which was told me by a gentleman in Up
per Canada. Certain Araerican speculators were in the habit of tra
velling on the roads and in steam-boats along with emigrants newly ar
rived, and would insinuate themselves into their confidence, tender ad
vice, induce them to purchase land in the States, and implements of
husbandry at a high rate, and, in short, take every advantage of their
ignorance, plunder them, and too oilen reduce them to beggary. My
informant said, that on one occasion, when he was coming up the Hud^
son, he observed in the steam vessel a burly, ruddy-faced English
fermer, to whom a sleek looking Yankee was paying particular atten
tion. My friend saw the game that was being played, and taking the
farmer aside, he advised him to beware of his new friend. "But how
are we to know these swindlers?" said Hodge; "perhaps you are one
yourself!" "Me? no, uo," said the gentleman; "why I don't want
to sell any thing to you, I*m your countryman : I only oflfer you ad
vice, for I wish to save you .(here the American approached to listen
to what was going forward;) but, -whenever you see a d  d sneak
ing fellow shoving himself forward where he has no business, and list
ening to conversation which does not concern him, that is a Yankee
speculator; — of him beware!" The American was unable to notice
this severe rub, and edged oflf to mark down another quarry."
From the nuraber of old and crazy and crowded ves
sels that were sent out with emigrants, and the numerous
shipwrecks which occurred, the attention of the Govern
ment has been, at length, forcibly directed to this sulgeet.
But as certainty and despatch are of iraraense conse
quence to an eraigrant and his family, as well as cheap
ness, good vessels, and kind captains, it must be very
gratifying, that Messrs, Robinson, Brothers, Bankers,
I^iverpool, have agencies established throughout England,
Scotland, and Ireland : engage none but good vessels :
^re most punctual in sailing, and facilitate the views and
objects of emigrants as much as in their power. They

UPPER CANADA. 117
have vesSicls from Liverpool to New York, every week :
to Quebec and Montreal every fortnight. Their ships are
convenient and comfortably fitted up, and their command
ers are' skilful navigators. It is exceedingly desirable that
an emigrant, immediately on landing, shpidd call at the
emigrant office for Information, as tbe sooner he locates
himself and obtains employment, the better.
At Quebec, Montreal, Kingston, Toronto, and Hamil
ton, societies have been formed — and it is by far the raost
preferable route under the present well regulated state of
things. Ifthose, hovfever, who intend coming to Cana
da, prefer making tbeir voyage by New York, they should,
by all raeans, iraraediately apply to the British Consnl
for inforraation as to their route, otherwise they are very
liable to be deceived.
Before sailing, 1 think emigrants should take some gen
tle medicine as a preparation for their voyage— rhubarb
and magnesia — a dose of salts, in peppermint infusion —
an aloetlc pill, or any mild medicine that agrees with
them-^their diet, for a week previous, should be light, and
spare — at sea, if severely sick, rest, and plentiful draughts
of warm caraomile tea, and a litde rhubarb and blue pill,
or equal parts of blue pill and aloetic pill when laying
down, after the stomach has recovered its tone sufficient
ly to retain one. They should be careful to provide some
good ginger, with which they can make tea, a most grate
ful diffusible stimulus, and a valuable stomachic. At the
corapletion of their voyage, when resuming full diet, it
is very beneficial to direct the bile into its proper and
accustomed channel, by again taking mild medicine,
combined with ;an unirrltating dose of blue pill. Poor
emigrants travelling up the Erie canal from New York—
or the Rideau canal frora Bytown to Kingston, would do
well to have some good pondered Ipecacuanha With

118 UPPER CANADA.
them, and sbould they be seized witb rigors, lassitude^
headache, nausea, followed by thirst, and increased heat^
they sbould take au emetic of Ipecacuanha, iraraediately,
anti afterwards some laxative raedicine in conjunction
with calomel or blue pill. Those with farailies should
especially take care tbat their children have been vaccina
ted before leaving home, as the smallpox has been known
td have been taken on board a S'hip and produced great
ravages among the crew. The disease, most common to
Europeans on tbeir first arrival in Canada, conslst-s in va
rious modifications of bilious disorder, and Intermittent
fever, soraetimes dysentery. It has been variously ascribed
tb miasma^ to iraprudent exposure of the person, and
drinking bad water. I think a fourth cau.se raay be
assigned, that has rauch to do with it, viz. the complete
change in manner of living. To avoid,'the first, in trav
ersing a marshy district, is scarcely possible — td guard
against ill effects from the second cause, flannels should
be worn next to the skin —and for the third, an adrairable
substitute for bad water raay be found, in pouring boiling'
water on bruised ginger and making a weak ginger tea.-
To prevent the consequences of the fourth, a raore sim-'
pie and plain diet, such as broth frora lean meat, gruel,
porridge, bread, railk, and eggs should be preferred to the-
coarse, rank, and greasy diet too often set before them.

CHAPTER XI.

Nothing can afford such an accurate indication of cli
mate, as correct meteorological data, and which, by the

UPPER CA^ADA. ' 119"
kindness of Dr. Craigie, 1 am enabled to supply to July"
1836. I may observe generally that the atmosphere is
greatly divested of the humidity so productive of catarrhs
and rheumatism in Gt. Britain, and that it may be char
acterized as clear and: light, fogs not coramon, winters
long and severe, summers short and intensely hot, scarce
ly any spring, but an Indian sumraer at the fall ofthe
year, answering to the autumnal season, ahd for delicious
mildness, not to be surpassed by any portion of tbe globe.
High winds are common in March, and dreadful thunder
and lightning storing In August.
When I speak of the winters being long and severe, I
do not, by any means^ consider that as a faidt, biit on
(he contrary, if the various agricultural societies should'
be the means of introducing good winter food for catde,.
nothing would be so cheering to the inhabitants, and be
neficial td the country, as such vvinters as the one we last
passed through. The sons (>f St. Andrew were enabled
by the excellent sleighing, to enjoy their annual festival,
Nov. 30, 1j835, at West Flamboro'— persons from Ancas
ter, Dundasi and Harailton attending: and on new Year's
eve, a ball was held at the Sarae tavern,., :gdt ijp by the.
sarae party, at which upwards of one huiidfed persons at-*
tended, Frora the steady continuance ofthis delightful,
.raode of travelling, persons from tbe most reraote town
ships are enabled to make long journies, if necessary; — .it
is not at all unusual to travel four of- ' five hundred miles'
in this raanner. Immense business is effected during this
lively season, innumerable saw logs conveyed to the raill,
grain brought to market, and chopping and clearing in
tbe woods carried on. A person frora Brantford, March
22nd, 1836, writes thus:
"We are now drawing to the close of one of the severest: wintera
whiqtha© been known for someyeairs in Upper Canada, and frennay.

120 ' UPPER CANADA.
look daily for an end as well to the amusements which it has aflTorded
by the excellent sleighing that has accompanied it, as to all those oc
cupations to which it has given facility, rail hauling, wood drawing,
&c. The farmer should now overhaul his plough, harrows, and im
plements of all descriptions, that he may be prepared to take the field
as soon as Mother Earth is loosened from her shackles. The heavy
fall of snow has been a great preservation to the grain, and from the
show of the wheats before they were covered, fair crops may be antici
pated. The yards should, during the present month, as soon as ihey
are loosened on thesurface of the ground, be cleared from the manure,
it is more easily collected ''into heaps at this season, and when the
ground soflens, much of it ishrodden into the earth, and remains there
after it becomes dry. He is a slovenly farmer who allows it year after
year to lie about his barn, injuring the timber and poisoning the atmos
phere — ^let him gather it into heaps and get it upon his land as soon as
possible, and the return will pay him for his labour. We would have
our friends too think about their grass seeds, and we give tbem an es.-
eellent hint from our contemporary, tbe Genesee Farmer, oa
SOWING CLOVER.
?'Where itis intended to sow clover seed on winter grain, it should
be done in the latter part of winter and before the thawing ofthe ground.
It is a common practice to sow it in the spring, after the frost has left
the soil — but as the ground has in this case become in a manner settled
and dryi there is less chance of the seed vegetating, and as it falls
merely upon the surface, it is prevented taking suflicient root to with
stand effectually the coming drought. But when sown earlier, the
breaking and crumbling ofthe soil by the parting frost, mixes the earth
with the seed and it takes sufficient root before the dry season comes
upon it. There need not be any apprehension that the seed by germi
nating too early, will be killed by the frost, as they never start below
the temperature of 60 degrees Fahrenheit — which temperature it is
obvious cannot exist until the ground is thawed.
"A great loss always follows the practice of sowing too little seed.
Twelve pounds to the acre is not too much in any instance and where
the soil is poor a much larger quantity should be used. Farmers who
wish to save expense by sowing only five or six pounds to the acre,
lose more than five times as much by the deficiency of the crop — so
that it is expensive economy at best. Besides, when clover is sown
thinly, the growth is thin and coarse, on the contrary when there is
sufficient seed, the growth is fine and dense, and the stalks ate not
rejected by cattle as is otherwise the case. A thick growth al80*^te-

UPPER CANADA. 121
vents liie admission of weeds, which so. frequently disfigure thin mea
dows." • . ,
Another person at Hamilton, April 10th, 1836, writes
thus :
"THE WEATHER.
"The termination of an unusually long and haVd winter, even for
Canada, has taken place. On the 19th of November, the country was
for the first time this season, covered wilh snow, a clothing which has
continued, as the ancient historians would say, "even unto this day."
The Intensity of the cold for more than four months has seldom been
equalled, even in the recollection ofthe oldest settlers; the thermome
ter during that period being frequently 30 ° below zero. The injuri
ous effects which must have been produced by'it, have been completely
counteracted by the deep snow which fell and was renewed at inter
vals throughout the winter, until its depth, in many places, was the
cause of anticipated alarra of floods, with all their terrors, when the
thaw would come. The mildness of the weather, however, for the last
tew days, and the gradual disappearance of the threatening enemy;
have dissipated every fear, and the heart of the husbandman already
begins to leap for juy.
"Upon the whole, the winter, notwithstanding its length and its
severity, has been a pleasant one, and exceedingly favourable to the
farmer, the great depth of the snow notonly protecting the crops in
the ground, but preventing the penetration of the frost, so that a few
days only will, elapse ere, the plough can be brought into complete and
active, operation. The sleighing throughout was incomparably fine ;
afibrding amusement to the towns folk, almost amounting to satiety,
and yielding a facility for the transmission of every description of agri
cultural produce from the most, remote parts of the Province. The
prices upon an average, for grain, potatoes,, pork, &c. were higher
than, usual, !tnd the demand great, so that the coffers of the agricul
turist shouldtnow be tolerably well stored, and himself enabled to re
new his annual duties with vigour and confidence.
"Hard frosts still continue during the nights, but the days are de
lightfully fine, and the heat ofthe Sun is rapidly, though imperceptibly
removing the wintry clothing ofwhite, which will speedily be supplied
t)y' pur spring mantle of green. The farmer is actively employed in
his preparations, and the mechanic as '^busy as a nailor" in forward
ing the means of his anticipated iraproviements;
^'Emigration upon an unusuallygiand scale HaBcommgncedaindng^t;
^he Pigeons ; and the town and country loungers-'are^'alrpady ap-;
16

132 TAPPER CANADA.
tiVely engaged in futnishing tbe housewives with the materials for a
Pigeon pie. Crack, cr-ack, crack, is the order ofthe day. Should the
.genuine emigrati»» take place in an equal proportion, and the old wo
men say the Innumerable flocks of pigeons are a good sign, we antici
pate that the year 1836 will be a bright one for Canada. We will not
-darken the pleasing picture by- even a glance at thfe political horizon."
The late winter comraenced in November, the sleigh
ing general on the 23d, and continued without interrais-
sion during the whole of the raoaths of Deceraber, Janua
ry, February, and iVlarch. Of its evident utility to the
Province, I shall have occasion to speak, in showing the
quantity of timber conveyed to some of the saw-mills du
ring those months. Of the delightful teraperature and
appearance of an Indian suraraer, I took notes, when raa
king a visit- from Cayuga to Brantford, in the third week
of October. I was two days performing the journey along
the rich meanderings of the Grand River. They were
certainly tvyo fine, autumnal days, when from the early
occurrence of frost, the foliage had begijn to assume its
variegated appearance, before the falling of the leaf — and
the beautifhl tints and raellow hues far deeper and more
diversified than in an European scene, often blended har-
moniijusly in the same tree, or contrasted with the deep
est green of a kindred branch appearing too healthy and
vigorohs to be precursors of dissolution or i^raptoms. of
decay. The bright yellow of the walnut, the scarlet of
the raaple, the fresh green of the fir, and the sombre brown
of the cedar, were often the most prominent colour,s ; but
these were mingled with a variety of others more soft
and delicate, melting imperceptibly into each other, and
throwing a- rich' and luxuriant beauty over the gorgeous
forest. The picturesque hills which sweep up from the
river side, were sleeping in tlie.meUow lightof the season ;
the distant village gleamed from a thin elpud, of %ht,
blue vor, in the dpeamy indistinctness oF which the

UPPER cam'a©a. 12S
poet loves to dwell ; the trees were just arrayed in that
garb indicative of decay, which always Itends^Sa tender
and melancholy an interest to Scenery — and the "ii^aters.
gliding silently along here and there bore down an Indian
canoe without even a ripple. The fragrance of the woods,
the gambols ofthe squirrels, tlie coolness of the inornings
and evenings gave an ethereal charm to the scene, fully
justifying the indignant remdnslrance iaf the poet against
those who were not enamoured with nature's charms :
They know not how the deepening trees,
Dark glens and shadow rock.s can please.
The morning blush, -the smile of even : ¦
What trees, and lawns, and mountains mean,
The dyin^ gale, the breathing scene.
The midnight calm, the whisp'ring heav'm
Pickering's observations are quite correct— he says r
"'J he winter is the most lively part of the year : when
tbere is about four inches snow with frOst, sleighing is
universal,, for business Or pleasure, from One end of the
Province to the other. A span of good horses conveys^
two or three persons in a sleigh forty or fifty miles a day,,
with ease, and they often go sixty or seventy. With
warra clothing, a fur cap, and a bear di* buflalo skin over
the back ahd feet, it is a .pleasant and very easy way of
travelling, enlivened by the numerous sleighs and^the
jinghng of bells, whidi the Jldrses are required to. wear."
From Ancaster Church, to Vanderlip's tavern, a distance
of liKle more than three tnilesi, across tbe Ancaster Plains,
I counted sixty-four sleighs on the 2{>fh df Jahuary, most
of them bringing !^&w-lt>gs to the mill, Seveiral on parties-
of pleasiire, and others with grain for the stores.
As a proof ofthe cheeffulajass and hilarity conseijuent
on this mode of travellings we may jnstanee the ^Iswiaig
animated account of a Canadian Poet» . "

124 UPPER CANADA.
THE SLEIGH BELL.
Merrily dash we o'er valley and hill.
All but the Sleigh-bell is sleeping and still,
0,bless the dear Sleigh-Bell ! there's nought can com'pare.
To its loud merry tones as tbey break on the ear.
Our horses are staunch, and they dart o'er the snow,
Our bells ring gaily the faster we go.
The night breezes sing with an answering swell,
To the melody rude of the merry Sleigh-Bell.
As swiftly o'er valley and mountain we rove.
The moon riding brightly and calmly above.
Dull sorrow shall hear its inspiriting knell,
la the loud cheerful notes ofthe merry Sleigh-Bell.
Now kiss'd by the moon-beam, outstripping tbe wind,
The cool sweeping night-gale is panting behind,
Nor leave we it aught our fieet pathway to tell,
But the £kr-distant tone of the merry Sleigh-Bell.
Where tbe white plain is smoothest in safety we ride,
Where the deep drift is highest we fearlessly glide,
O'er the steep we ascend, and we plunge through the dell.
To th6 loud lively tone of the merry Sleigh-Belj.
Though sweet is the note ofthe amorous lute.
And mellow the tone ofthe soft-breathing flute.
E'en the rich rolling voice ofthe organ's loud swell.
Is nought to compare to the merry Sleigh-Bell.
THERMOMETBICAL OBSERVATIONS,
TAKEN AT ANCASTEK, DURING THE YEAR 1835.
Mean height ofthe Barometer for the year, 29.16 inches: its
range from 28. 19 to 29. 82.
Meantemperature of the year 45,318: of the first six months 40,372:
of; the last six months 50,253. Range of the Thermometer from
-^7 to X 8S<r. Rain or snow during the year fell on llQ^ays, but on 50
Of these there were only slight showers, giving an average of one rainy
to 4 1-3 dry days, orincluding every day, onwhifctrain or snow fell"
1 to 2.1.

UPPER CANADA.

125

It 18 absolutely necessary to state, however, ip regard to the above
observations, that the whole year of 1835, was both colder and more
rainy, than any preceding one, during the present century. From ob
servations on the temperature of spring water we believe that averaging
a series of years, the mean temperature would not be under 50°.
During the continuance ofthe hottest weather, in the months of July
and August, the niglits are cool, preventing that lassitude and enerva
tion which would result from a long duration of uninterrupted heat.
The following is the description ofthe climate of England, taken in
1832, and published in a work entitled Statistical Notes.
During the six winter months, front October to March, the mean
temperature ofthe central part of England is commonly between 42°
and 43<<. In December, January and February, itis generally^ below
40 ° : in July and August, 62 ° to 65 * . The mean annual tempera
ture, noon and night, ofthe central part of England, is about 50° . —
The greatest heat seldom exceeds 80° , and the cold of December or
January is rarely^ below 20° or 25°. The average quantity of rain
in the northwest of England, particularly in Westmoreland and Lan
cashire, is 45, 50, and sometimes 60 inches, while the average of the
kingdom at large is from 30 to 40. The prevalent winds, as in Cana
da, are from the west, southwest, and northwest.

Mean temperature at Ancaster,

U. C,

from

Mean temperature at

four observations, viz: —

Montreal, L. C, ob

Maximum and minimum at 7 A.M.

andS P. M.

servations made in

1835.

1835.
January.
28
25
Minm.
6. 5.
Maxm.47
January. 17. I
February
20
125
do.
1.
ii
49
February . 13. 7
March.
33
22
do.
0.
a
61
March. 29. 2
April.
42
86
do.
22.
it
74
April. 40. 2
May.
55
5
do.
34.
«
80
May. 55. 8
June.
62
3
do.
39.
a
84.5
June. 65. 5
July.
67
26
do.
45.
It
84
July. 70. 8
August
64
14
do.
45.
tc
85
August. 67. 8
Sept'ber.
54
5
do.
35.
tt
83
Sept'ber. 56. 7
October.
50
73
do.
30.
tt
76
October. 49. 0
Nov'ber.
3p
99
do.
10.
tc
66
Nov'ber. 38. 8
Dec'ber.
25
95
do.
7.
tt
47
Dec'ber. 10. 8
Mean T.
45
318°
M. T. 42. 9
In the month ef March, a great quantity of sugar is
wade from the maple; the trees are very nuraerous, and
will yield frora 3 to 6 pounds of sugar per tree, each sea
son ; the quality nearly as good as muscovado sugary
126 UPPER CANA©A.
when properly made. The process of making it is ex
tremely sample. As soon as the sap of the trees coraraen
ces running in the spring, the tree is tapped, as it is term
ed, which is done by boring a hole, with an inch auger,
four inches -deep — a tub is then set under, and the juice
or sap is made to flow into it, by raeans of a trotigb.
The trees run best when the days are warm and tbe nights
frosty, This operation is performed upon a great num
ber at the sarae time, taking care to watch tbe tubs or
pails that they may be emptied as soon as filled. The
juice is evaporated fey boiling down to tbe proper consiis-
tence. It has not so pleasant a taste, to my raind, as the
sugar raade frora the cane, but I have no doubt but that
it raight be rauch iraproved in the manufacture.
"The maple sugar season is upon ue now, and during^ the sunny
days and freezing nights which we have towards tbe end of March and
theb^inning of Aprit, the Jarajer, and the •^fermer beys," may be
seen in the maple lots with all their apparatusi, bucket's, spouts, ket
tles, &c., for manufacturing this valuable and delicious article. In
time, it will be found in the Boston market, vieing in richness, and
whiteness withthe best loaf sugar. Those who would have their BUgar
perfectly white, and freie from the dark colour which much of it wears,
have only tojook ir^l to their kettles, buckets, tubs, &c., before tbe^
receive tbe sa^, as the colouring matter which darkens the sugar is all
derived from — as much -so. as tbat wbich gives brandy its red appeap.
ance is derived from the pi^es, 'barrels, &«., wbich contaiit H. — A wri
ter in the Woodstock Gouriet suggests, that befbi'e tbe sap is put Into
(be kettles, a little lime should be put in — say a teaspOonfuU to a
couple of barrels — ^in order to neutralize the vegetable acid which it
contains. It should be stirred up and then allowed to settle to prevetit
the acid from decompesing the iron, which giv6s the sugar -its black
appearance, and causes it to colour the lea. The kettles should also,
while warm, -receive a thin coat of white wash, and when dry, the sap
put in and kept boiling till it is "sugared ofi*." By a little attention of
this kind, maple sugar may be made whiter than tlie best in the market
and bring a high price to tbe producer."
Of the admiraWe adaptation of this Province for fruit,
I have been often well convinced by the iliimensequan-

UPPER CANADA. 127
tity it spontaneously produces. In the deep woods skirt
ing the banks of the Grand River, apples, pluras, cher
ries, ras|)berries, strawberries, gooseberries, and currants,
are growing in all directions. And the immense clusters
of grapes, the vines hanging in graceful festoons from
lofty trees, are well calculated to excite astonishment.
The peach tree requires peculiar care and attention, in
consequence of its shooting forth its blossoms so early in
the spring, which tbe least cold afterwards is almost sure
to nip. The precaution to be taken, and which bas been
fouml successful in many parts ¦ of the northern section,
where the peach had invariably failed before, is, at the
tirae of the year when the snow is, disappearing from the
land, to take care and rake together and pile up aheap
of it immediately around the roots of the peach tree, and
the same sbould be pressed down closely, in order that it
may be the last snow melted down in the spring. The
snow around the roots of tbe tree will have the effect of
keeping the sap down till it can put forth k& flowers, like
other fruit trees^ without any danger from the frost or cold^
The Hon. James Crooks, of West Flamboro', well known
Ibr his devotion to horticulture, planted a great many
peaeh trees in a southecnaspect, but fiuding that invade
ablythe springfrost cut off all the blossoms and they borer
no frui^ he planted some in a north-eastern position, an^
to his great gratiiication, found that although the treesr
sent not forth their blossoms so early, he had neverthe'
less abtmdance of fruit.

CHAPTER XII.

It raust be a source of great gratification to all friends
of British, connection, tbat the very liberal and judicious
measures adopted by the American Land Company is
likely to attract, intotbe Eastern townships of LoAver
Canada, a large influx of British settlers. . There is a vast
deal ofiexcellent land, and abundantly watered, to be
met with in this extensive tract ; :its:-sal«b?ity. proximity
to market,, contiguity to Mojitreal - and ^Q^ebec, must ren
der it . a desirable^ location, whilst the augmentation of
native Britons. raust eventually neutralize that spirit of
feudalism, which is opposed to , the improvement .ai%d'
prosperity of a country. The cities of Montreal and
Quebec have been so often and so well described, that. I
refer -to the accounts giyen*af them by.ptherg, merely- ob-
serving.that,the magnificent position of fthe latter, com-
mandiog the tnegestic St. Lawrence below, with the beau
tiful. country, around it4 and the splendid cathedral' of the
former, with the. lofty and richly wooded mountain, from
whence itfderives its.nanie, with, the lovely islands in rtbe^
river are t well worthy of being seen. "They .are both;SO
much like'old European towns, and differ so widely from
the ?>iry, expansive cities of the United States, that an
Araerican feels as far from horae on his first arrival in. a
Canadian city, as an European would in the forests on
the Mississippi. As he looks round hira, he feels more
and' more in a foreign land ; and the foreign language
and gentle manners of the native Canadians confirm the

UPPER CANADA. 12?
impression. The pomp of monarchy, even when dimly
seen in the regalia ofa viceroy: the aristocratical distinc
tions apparent even in a Colony : the' vestiges of the feu
dal system to be traced in tbe surrounding seignories ; the
Nunneries and the Catholic churches, witb their vesper
and matin bells : tbe Catholic clergy walking in tlic
streets ; are all calculated to recal llmpresslons connected
rather witb the. old world, than witb the beasts of the for
est. Here no gray tower meets the eye, to call back the
imagination to scenes and incidents of elder times ; no
monastic edifices to revive the memory of ancient things ;
no regalia, transmitted through a line of Kings ; no fear
ful magnificence; no' baronial splendour": no sacred de
positories ofthe ashes of generations who bave slept with
tbeir fathers during a thousand years : all is new, fresh,
and prospective: and if the mind will take a retrospective
glance, it is but to expatiate in tbe regions of fancy, or
to lose itself in the clouds which rest on the early history
of the aborigines." Tbe British party-are taking the best
raeans of quieting the distractions, wbich have hitherto
checked the progress ofthe Province, by infusing a differ
ent body. of people into the country, by paying every at
tention to their wants In tbe formation of roads-^— construc
tion of bridges —erection of houses^-establishraerit of
mills, churches, schools, &c.— ^and by the disposal of the
waste lands at an easy and reasonable rate. Both Que
bec and Montreal are distinguished by the number of lit
erary characters with which they abound. In the former
therfe isa Uterary and historical society, not excelled in the
vast continent of Araerica. They possess a splendid mu
seum — a choice Jibrary — and a valuable philosophical
apparatus. The following extract from, their annual re
port will forcibly poiTrtray the nature, extent, and value
of their labours. ; - >i
17

ISO UPPER CA?fADA.
"The Council have endeavored to quicken enquiries, by proilered
prizes, iuto various subjects on the antiquities, the history, and the
statistics of the country ; on the Aborigines, their traditions, their lan
guages, their affinities to other races, particularly the Asiatic ; on their
progressive distribution through the continent, and on "the means of
effecting their civilization. Otber questions have been suhmilted for
elucidation — on the arts as applied to the Canadas ; on the natural
history of the country, as applicable to the arts ; on its botany ; its in
digenous nutritious vegetables, and the means of increasing the propor
tion of nutritious deposit in them ; on the introductmn and culture of
plants^of the most obvious Utility congenial to tbe elimate, and on its
agricultnre generally ; on the important question of coal formations,^
and the probability oftheir de^tionin the country j on its mines gener
ally; on the exploration of the yet unknow n portions of its extensive
territory, and on the all engrossing question, of facilitating the means
of'communication over its vast surface. On the fisherfes of its rivers,
lakes and coasts ; ofthe salmon ; the sturgeon ; the porpoise, and the
whale, more especially. . These subjects are of wide research, and if
fiilly investigated would tendgreatly to the increase ofthe productions
ofthe Colony ; and would deter -from fruitless exertions by giving a
wholesome direction to them."
The following extracts will exhibit the wrongs which
the British population have endured, and the obstacles
which a faction have interposed to prevent the settlement
and retard the advanceraent of the Colony.
"It is a mSrtter ofmciCb astonishment to us, how the conductor of a
single paper, in Upper Canada could persuade himself to support the
French Faction intheir horrible oppre^ionof our British bretbren'-iir
the Lower Province.-' 'Can it be possible, we think, that they can know
that the whole British population of the Province is totally unrepre
sented : do they know that by downright roguery, branded as such by
a conscientions Judge e.ven ofthe French party, the British inhabitants
ofMontreal haver been deprived of the right of electing their own re
presentatives, while two oftheir enemies were returned in their stead r
do they'^now that* when .they petitibned for an inquiry, they were, rc-
, fused and treated in tbe most tyraonical manner : do they — but really
there is no end to their wrongs— do they know that tbe whole. Britjsb
population, English, Irish and Scotch, tory, whig, and radical, are-
banded together for their common safftty. Could such a state of thing*
be brought about without oppression ; and if oppressed, shallow* ib©-'

UPPER CANADA. * 131
»
fuse them our sympathy ? Can any one read the language which caU
ed forth the following communication without feeling his blood boil in
liis veins? And yet the principle is carried out to its fullest extent-
Britons ami the sons of Britons are treated in the very country -con
quered by their forefathers, in aland part and portion of the birth right
of every free born Briton, as if they were seeking au asylum in a for
eign latid 1 From Correspondenls of 'ho <3,uebec Gazette.
Sir-^In a speech ascribed to Mr. Spealier Papineau, as delivered in
the House of Assembly on Friday, the 22d January, and publis hed in
the Canadian ofthe S5th January, I find the following expression, in
r-egard to the immigrants into his Province : ^'Celte.minorite turtmlent$
ttfactieuse qui He cherdie qu' a se gorger et prosperer aux depens d'une
population qui lui a offert un refuge :" which, translated into English,
means,-— -"that tnrbulent and factious minority, whose only aim , is to
devour and prosper at the expence of a. population which has offered
it a refuge ;" and farther on — ''qui ne cherehent qu'ne asyle, qu'ne'pa-
irie," who only sought an asylum, a. country." Such are no doubt the
ideas of the Speaker of our House of A^embly; but is it true, that
immigrants into Canada only sought a place of refuge, that they were
driven from their homes, that they had uo longer a country, and. were
forced to seek one in Canada ? Is it true, that a British subject can
be said to seek a refuge, when he uses his liberty of moving from one
part ofthe empire to another part of the sarae empire?- Is there any
one Within that empire that can be said to offer him a refuge 1 Is he
without a country, who has the largest-empire in the world -for his
country, and where he is free to fix his residence and carry with.hira
the inherent right of a British subject? Mr. Speaker Papineau is not
yet the Sovereign of Canada I and ifhe were, 1 questiorr.rauch,. if, of
all those who come into it, there- is one who would condescend to ask
biiM for a place of refuge, or an asylum. An Immigrant.
«'The subjoined extract we copy from the Irish Advocate ; it .is ta
ken from a speech of M. Rodier, member for L'Assuraptian, delivered
by that gentleman in the year 1832, and breathes the real sentiments
of bis party, viz. enmity to emigration, and base ingratitude, in return
for what B/itisb talent and perseverance have effected, in a particular
manner, for Lower Canada.
"When I see my country in mourning, and- ray native' land present
ing to ray eye nothing but one vast cemetry, I ask Mdiat has been 'the
cause of all these disasters ? — aDd the -voice of ray Father^ my Brother
SiDd jny beloved Motlier — the voice of thousands of my fellow citizetyt

132! UFFER CAKAUA. '
— respond from their tombs, it is emigratiun. It was not eiioug!) tty
s«nd araong us avaricious egotists, withi.ut any other spirit ofliberty-
than could be bestowed by a himple education of the counter, to en
rich. themselves at the ejjpense of the Canadians, and tlieii endeavor
to enslave them— tliey miist also rid themselves oftheir bcggare, and
Castthern by thousands on our shores ; they must sqnd us miserable
beings, who after baving partaken of ihe braad of our children,. .wilK
subject thera to tiie horrors of hunger and misery ; they must du still
more — they must send us in their traiti pestilence and death. If 1 pre
sent to you so melancholy a picture of the condition of this ctxiintry, I
have to encourage the hope that we may yet preserve our ntitionality,
and avoid those future calamities by opposing a barrier to thife torrent
of emigratioft. ' It is only in the House of Assembly we can place our
hopes, and i^t is only in the choice the Canadians make in their elec-<
tions they can ensure the preservation of their rights and political
liberties." "After this, it will require all the Bophietry and impudence of O'-'
Callaghan to persuade us that lie and liis friends encourage emigration,
and that the House of Asseijijly, is not swayed in aH it, does, by hos
tility to the inhabitants oftiiia Province of .'British and Irish origin, and
a determined resohidon lo oppcse th:; furMier influx of his countrymen
there." "The grievances under which the ])eople df British origin have so
long groaned in Lower Canada, teils a tale of oppression and over
bearing Ignorance, wliich few people who have not been in that Prov
ince have any'cbnception of. By the existence of feudal tenures and'
antiquated customs and privileges, which took ther rise in the dark
ag6s, and are still perpetuated there, the French population are enabled
to return a majority ofthe merabers ofthe popular branch ofthe Leg--
islaturej'and witji this powerful advantage',' they can arrest all irii-
provement, check the exertions of their niore enterprising fe-llow-sus-'
jects from the British Isles,, an'd distract and disorganize the cOuntrv.
In the French portion of Lower Canada, we -have a picture of Nor
mandy as it existed two hundred years ago, and when it is stated, that
in Montreal, all sales of real propfertv pay a feudal tax of twelve per
cent., no matter how often. transferred, we may easily see what impedi
ments there are in the way of the English seUler acquiring landed es-'
tate. Ana ytH.nianyof the important offices require such a qualifica
tion. It follows,, tfeen, that the British poi-iion of the community labor
under disadvantage, which no enterprise or industry will overcome,
and are governed bjtan ignorantset of men, who in' effect usurp all

UPPEIl CANADA. 13S
tbe functions of government. The Province yields a handsome reve
nue, but the English portion ofthe population derive little benefit front
it — it beingexpended for French, and not English purposes, which,*
when we consider, that the revenue is paid almost exclusively by the
English population— -fortheFrencli consume«carcely any British -man
ufacture, frora which the- revenue springs— is very galling. A notable'
instance of this system is practically illustrsted in the salary paid by'
the House of Assembly to Mr. Boebiick, who is emplpyed at home
to misrepresent the English, and to render their terra of slavery irre-'
deeiiiable. Five thousand dollars ofthe people's raoney was thUs ex
pended not three months since ; and in this way is the prpduce of the
Eflglishraan's industry and the sweat of his brow expended to rivet
his chains, sfill tighter ! Can it, then, be wondered at that he is res
tive? the spirit now showing itself in Lower Canada, is of a totally
different character to that which caused the American colonists to take
up arms in these United States fifty years ago ; the English in Cana
da seek not to dissolve, but to preserve British connexion, while their
opponents, are calling for elective institutions and a republic.
"Not long since .the loyal party in Montreal attempted to form a
volunteer Rifle Company, under the most distinct and positive under
standing that its objects were the preservation of the British Constitu
tion, and attiichment to the Parent state. Yet no sooner was this
known at duebee than the Governor-General, who is now openly ac
cused, we know not with what truth, of being in close aUiance with
Mr. Papineau and the republican party, issued his proclaraation de-
claring'its existence illegal, and calling upon all the public authorities
to suppress it, under the extreme penaltj' ofthe law ! Thus are free
born Englishmen, Irishmen, and Scotchmen, punished for attachment
to their King and country^their loyalty pronounced treason, and their
efforts to support the throne branded as attempts to destroy it. Can
it b^ wondered at then, we repeat, that the Constitutionalists have at
last rallied — banded theraselves together and proclaimed their wrongs?
Their crime, if It be one, was pardonable, fortheir object'was to obey
the rwai-injunction lo Lord tjiosfdrd, which others seem to have- forgot
ten — "Remember that Canada must not be lost or given away." — -A
happy day was it for Mr. Papineau and his friends when that pro
clamation came forth from Quebec, Ibr well do they know that the
lion is aroused, and about to shake the dew from his inane. The
noble animal is not in haste -to assail his enemies, but jij]^ .spring
will not be the less terrible. The disloyal upbraid the loyal, ;and they,
complain ofthe presence of ti'oops and stab the soldier whenjilefence'.

334 UPPER CANADA.
less and alone. Will they allow the British army to be marched oUt
of ''Canada ? Not they — and if the Constitutionalists were to propose
^iich a measure to-morrow, Mr. Papineau would be the first to invoke
tlreir stay. Let tbem boast of their numbers; eveo 'though they bethree
to one, we fear thein not — and were the troops recalled, or shut up
within the walls of Quebec and the keys given to Mr. Papineau, the
peopleof British origin would, with their strong arms and valiant hearts,
by one mighty effort, arise and sweep the traitors from the face ofthe
earth." . .
¦ *f There* are two vessels at present on the stocks in the ship-yards,
litear the city, both of which will be ready for launching as soon as the
river is clear of ice. One is a barque of 401 tons raeasureraent, own
ed by Messrs. Jaraes Millar & Co., and to be coraraanded by Captain
Biirns, formerly of the Favourite. The cabins ofthis vessel are now
being finished in a raost tasteful and superb manner, and when comple
ted will not be Inferior in beauty and styje to those of the N^w York
packets. We believe we are but doing justice to the builder when we
give our opiniop, which is supported by the sentiments of nuraerous
scientific gentlemen who have visited this vessel, that for architectural
beauty and streng'th she has never been equalled by any other bt»ilt in
Lower Canada. She is to be called the Glasgow. The other is tbe
steara-boat for the Railroad Company, which, from her great length
and peculiar model, is the wonder ofthethousands who visit her. The
length of her deck is 175 feet, the breadth of beam 22 feet, depth of
hold at midships II feet, which decreases to 6^ feet at the ends. The
engine, which, with the boilers, will be 'under deck,iis 75 horse power,
but is capable of being worked 'up to 100. The model of this boat
differs materially £i'om those liMberto built on the St. Lawrence. Extra
length of keel has been found to have the same effect in reducing the
draitghtpf water, as breadth of beam and flatness of bottom, with this
g<reat advantage, that a long narrow boat, like that of the Railrcad
Company's, drawing an equal quantity of water with a short flat bot
tomed boat, will run much fester. When this boat has her engine on
board, and ready for running, she will draw about three feet of water.
Beside the above, there are three barges on the stocks, alraost ready
f«r launching. Two are for the Ottawa and Rideau Forwarding Com
pany, and the other for Messrs. James Millar & Co. The wbole built
by Mr. Merritt." '
Every Information is given to em^raflts, hoth at Que
bec and Montreal, where they may obtain iraraediate

UPPER CANADA. 135
employment. Numbers will be required in the Eastertt
townships ; bpt if they desire ( to proceed i to the Upper
Province, there will befitU occupation next year, (1837s)
for any number who may wish' to come.. The improve
ments on the St. Lawrence^on the Ottawa — ofthe Gana-'
noque and Wiltsie creek — on the Trent, and. the internal
navigation of the Newcastle District — on : Windsor Bay,
township" of Whitby, for the.construction ofthe harbourT**
for the cutting-down ofthe Rouge hill^for the opening
ofthe road from the back ' townships, to that of Pic'ker-
ing — for the Desjardins Canal, Dundas^-at Port Dovee'
Harbour — for the improvement of the Otter Creek^-be*
sides the probability of the Rail Roads proceeding with
from Hamilton to London — from Bertie to Sandwich —
from Toronto to Lake Huron. The Grand river Navi
gation Company at Brantford —and the Welland Canal
Company also require labourers. Information may be
obtained at Bytown, Prescott, Brockville, Kingston, Belle
ville, Trept, Bath, Bay of Quinte, Hallowell, Prince Ed
ward District, Cobourg, Port Hope, Peterboro', Toronto,
St. Catharines, Niagara, Port Credit, Oakville, Hamilton,
Dundas, Brantford, Guelph, London,, and St. Thoraas.
There are steam comraunications by the Rideau Canal and
Lake Ontario to Toronto and Harailton. From Toronto
to Niagara, Port Credit, Oakville, Wellington Square and
Hamilton— from Niagara and Queenston stages to,Chip--
pawa — steam-boats from Chippawa to Sandwich- and
Chatham— from Sandwich to Goderich on LaTie Huron.
Steam-boats go across and around lake Simeoe — from
Sully on the Rice Lake, to Peterboro,' on the Otanabee
river, and the Rice Lake is, navigable through the Trent
to Seymour. There are nuraerous stages established! in
different parts of the-tProvince, frora Cornwall to Kingston,
and frora thence to Toronto, through Cobourg and Port

136 UPPER CANADAj
Hope by the Dundas Road, running pa:ral!el with Lake
Ontario : from Toronto to lake Simeoe : from -Torontcf
to Hamilton. From Niagara through St. Catharines,
Beamsville, Grirasby, and Stoney Creek to Harailton.
Frora Harailton to London, St. Thoraas, and Sandwich,
by Ancaster, Brantford, Burford, and Oxford; From
Dundas to Gait and Guelph. From Dundas to St. George,
Dumfries and Paris. From Paris to Beechville and
Woodstock., Frorn Hamilton to Caledonia, Seneca, and
Yorkj on the Grand River. Diiring the^ sumraer raonths
extra stages run to Harailton for the convenience of
steam-boat passengers to and from Toronto and Niagara.

CHAPTER XIII.

Upper Canada is divided into Twelve Districts^viz :
tlie Eastern, Bathurst, Ottawa, Johnston, Prihce Edward,
Midland, Newcastle, Gore, Niagara, Horae, London, and
.Western. These Districts are again divided into Coun
ties, for the better and more effectual representation of
the people, and the registration of property, and these
Counties into Townships. The Counties are — Cbrnwall,
Prescott, Russell, Glengarry,'Stormoat, Dundas, Lanark,
Carleton, Grenville, Frontenac, Lennox and Addington,
Leeds, Hastings, Northumberland, Durham' 4 ridings of
York, Simeoe, Halton, Wentworth, Haldimand, 4 ridings
of Lincoln, Oxford, Norfolk, Middlesex, Kent, Essex,
and Huron.
The whole of Upper Canada abounds in lakes, raany
of them varying from 200 acres in size, down to one or
two, frequently in beautiful situations, often abounding in
fish, and generally finely wooded round their shores^ but
the principal ones are as follows : Circumference. Av. depth.
1,235 miles. 1,000 feet.
1,100 850 ;
1,000 780 >
700 250
500 500
120 125
100 20
58 00
58 00
The following is the elevation above the Sea, of the several Lakes
enumerated — ascertained by the late survey of the Inland waters of
tbe Newcastle and Home Di8trict8,-^Lake Ontario 234 ft ; Rice Lake
365 above lake Ontario, or 599 above the Sea ; Balsam lake 324 ii,
18

jyames.

Length.

Breadth.

Superior,

541 miles.

140 miles.

Huron,

250

190

Michigan,

260

90

Erie,

280

63

Ontario,

180

80

Simeoe,

40

30

St. Clair,

34

30

George,

25

00

Rice Lake,

24

2 to 5

138 UPPER CANADA.
4 in. above Rice lake, or 823 ft. 4 in. above the Sea ; Lake Simeoe
704 ft; Lake Huron 594 ft; difference between the level of lake Sim
eoe and lake Huron 110 feet
POPULATION RETURNS OP UPPER CANADA, TAKEN IN 1835.
Newcastle, 30,245— Bathurst, 22,693— Eastern, 29,119— Ottawa,
7044— Johnstown, 28,504— Prince Edward,' 12,320— Midland, 34,365
—London, 41,130— Gore, 40,156— Western, 14,496— Home, 47,54?,
exclusive of Toronto — Toronto, 9,756 — Niagara, 28,735. Total,
846,165. The returns for 1836, as far as I have seen them, exhibit a very great
increase of population, but not being able to pbtain an entire set, I pre
ferred giving the returns for 1835. This increase added to the large
emigration this year, will certainly give Upper Canada a population of
more than 4,000.
The Eastern District comprises the Counties of Dun
das, Glengarry, and Storraont.
EASTERN DISTRICT.
COUNTY OF nUNDAS.
Townships. Cultivated acres. Uaciiltivatei] acres.
Mountain, 2,079 14,000
Williamsburg, 6,315 29,590
Matilda, 5,181 25,317
Winchester, 509 6,090
COUNTY Of GLENGARRY.
Lochiel, 6,306 43,351
Lancaster, 7,431 40,238
Kenyon, 3,412 43,956
Charlottenburgh, 16,425 58,940
COUNTY op STORMONT.
Osnabruck, 9,735 33,420
Finch, 935 9,365
SXrpugh'} '^'^'^ ^'^
Town of Cornwall, ...
Horses, 5,148— Four year old Oxen, 1,231— Milch Cows, 9,741—
Horned Cattle, from one to four years old, 2,147.
The County of Glengarry, which now contains upwards
ofi 2,000 inhabitants, is principally settled by the Scotch,
and their descendants. The venerable Bishop McDonell
brought over a large number of Highlanders in 1804,

Assessment. £8,292 27,62118,932 3,034

Population. 872
2,128
2,187 351

31,941
24,862 18,643
58,927

3,434
2,652 1,990
4,988

37,958 4,862

4,771 525

68,070

4,5ie

-'

1,741

UPPEK CANADA. 139
who were located in this county. In the township of
Lancaster, he commenced the erection of St. Raphael's
Church, the largest in Upper Canada ; it is sdll unfinish-
,ed, but had he been enabled to have completed it, ac
cording to its original design, it would have proved' an
ornament to the country. It is now a fine spaciouis build
ing. He has also a seminary for Ecclesiastics here. There
are fine large well cultivated farms in the~township of
Charlottenburgh ; land goodj^and weH w^atered. These
two townships are bounded by the river St, Lawrence in
front and the townships of Kenyon and Lochiel in the
rear. In these latter townships, particiilarly Lochiel,
there are several fine productive farms. They are all,
save Kenyon, well supplied with mills. Both cleared
farras, and wild land are reasonaible. Its contiguity to
market, and the^ newly settling townships in the Lower
Province, will gr^^t'y enhance the value of property in
this neighbourhood.
Williamstown, in the County of Glengarry, is situated
on the river Raisin, containing churches, schools, manu
factories, taverns, and many good houses. Col. Fraser,
of Fraserfield, has a fine farm, well cultivated, with a
handsome residence on it. ^ There is a village in Lochiel
very prettily situated, called Alexandria, with churches,
schools^ and a large population. 1 here are 1200 free
holders in the County of Glengarry. ,;
The County of Dundas has but little to recondmencl
it, except its water ; in the township of Matilda there is
some fine land, and a raountain range running through it.
The township of Williamsburgh is well settled and
delightfully situated, fronting the St. Lawrence : it is
abundantly watered by creeks, and has a rising village
called Mariatown, in which tbere is a good tavern. The

14Q UPPKR CANADA.
land is of superior quality. Mr. Brouse and Captain
McDonell possess large well cultivated farms, with good
residences on them. The township of Mountain has the
Nation river running through it, and a fine stream it is :
the land is of excellent quality about it.
The County of Storihont has 12,0C0 inhabitants, main
ly Scotch and their descendants. It is abundantly wa
tered, particularly the townships of Osnabruck, Cornwall
and Finch, and contains raany mills. Between this and
Glengarry the St. Regis Indian territory runs. 'J he town
of Cornwall has the'jail. and court-house of the District,
contains several stores, churches, taverns, upwards of a
thousand inhabitants, and sends a member to the Pro
vincial Parliathent. There is a large Catholic Church in
St. Andrews. The farms are large, and generally of
good quality. This District sends seven merabers to the
House of Assembly. The road fiom Cornwall to the
Ottawa District, passes through the township of Roxbo-
rough, which is extensively settled, contains fine land,
and is watered by the north branch ofthe river Aux Rai
sins, and several creeks. The township of Osnabruck
contains sorae extensive and well cleared farras, the land
of excellent quality ; it has the advantage of the St. Law
rence in front, the river Aux Raisins, and several creeks,
which supply various raills. The villages of Santa Cruz,.
Moulinette, and Lancaster, are all increasing in size, popu-
ladon, and in the nuraber and character of the buildings.

UPPER CANADA. 141
The Ottawa District, in the rear of the Eastern District,
and having its north front on the river Ottawa, is divided
into two Countiesj viz. Presscott, and Russell ; it is
bounded by the majestic river frora whence it derives
its name, the Ottawa. OTTAWA DISTRICT.
COUNTY OP PRESCOTT.

Townships. Culti

vated acres.

Uncultivated acres.

Assessment,

Population,

West Hawkesbury

4,806

16,633

:£19,403 '

1,801

East Hawkesbury

2,020

14,003

10,884

853

Longueil,

3,358

12,004

, 12,435

1,090

Caledonia,

993

6,188

41,077

374

Alfred,

297

4,271

1,698

163

Plantaganet,

1,342

11,517

6,477

737

COUNTY OF RUSSELL;

Clarence,

363

5,781

1,950

178

Cumberland,

395

6,995

2,578

208

Russell,

74

2,226

1,028

36

Cambridge,

Gloucester,
1,859
17,238
9,017
1,081
Osgoode,
852
13,442
4,588
523
Horses, 740— Milch Cows, 2,095— Four year old Oxen, 831— Two
year old Horned Cattle, 599.
The village of L'Original has two churches, and con
tains raany inhabitants, but the country depends more on
the lumber trade than its agriculture. A Fair has been
established in the village with a view to its encourage
raent. But the place of most consequence in this District is
BYTOWN,
Which is divided into two parts, is named after Cbl. By,
and called the upper and lower town, a mile distant from
each other, containing both together raore than two thou
sand inhabitants ; in the lower town they are chiefly
Canadians. The streets are laid out in straight .lines, and
contain sorae excellent houses, many stores, and sorae
good taverns. There is a large Catholic church in the
lower town, which is most numerously attended. In the
upper town there is a Small English Church, a larger
142 UPPER CANADA.
Scotch Presbyterian one, and a diminutive Methodist
tabernacle, The Rideau Canal locks, lie between the
two towns, to which persons pass and, repass over a large,
lofty, and handsome stone bridge, called of the Sappers
and Miners. There is a fine and extensive grist-:inill be
longing to Mr. McKay, the excellent member for Russell,
about a mile below the lower town, in a small, but in
creasing village, called New Edinburgh, where the junc-
tion<of the Rideau and Ottawa rivers take place. The
scenery, particularly about the upper town, is the rao&t
lofty and sublirae in Canada. The falls ofthe Chaudiere,
somewhat better than a mile above it, are awfully grand.
These falls are about one hundred and twenty-five miles
,due west. from Montreal. The interruption is six miles
in length, and the river then extends- into a spacious and
deep lake, the head of which is about thirty miles from
the Chaudiere falls, and about two railes further to the
north. At this spot occurs, perhaps, one ofthe raost sin-
glilar, grand, and beautiful spectacles in nature. The
Utta-wa, here two miles and a half in breadth, is precipi
tated in fifteen distinct cataracts over a straight line of
perpendicular cragsj covered in the intervals with ever
green cedar and pine, and instantly sinks to rest in the
still lake below. After this interruption, the river again
extends into a beautiful lake, changes its direction, and
flows'from the north west. Opposite to Bytown, is Hull*
in Lower Canada, the Utta-wai being here the boundary
between the two Provinces. The Rideau canal connects
the Utta-wa with lake Ontario at Kingston, by avoiding
the Ghaudiere falls. The whole extent of this fine eanalt
including the fivers and lakes through which it passes, Js
about 160 railes: in length,- ithas-47 locks, 147 feet by 33
wide; the total rise is 437 feet; the highest reservoir is
tli|yg.i^eau lalie, which is. 24 miles in length,.. The

UPPER CANADA. 143
canal commences in the river Ottawa, in a small bay,
130 miles from Montreal, and 150 from Kingston —
is entered from this bay by eight locks, passes through
a ravine, extends over a large swamp, secured by a
dam ; crosses another ravine by means of an aque
duct, and joins the Rideau river, six miles from the com-"
niencement of the canal. Here there is a large dam^
which overcomes sev.en miles of rapids, converting thein
into a silent stream. The canal is united to the river by
means ofa lock. By the assistance of locks, dams, and
embaixkments, it is carried to the river Cataraque, and
ultimately terminates in that river, by Kingston. The
whole of the 47 locks are of admirable construction, ex--
hibiling the appearance of beauty, solidity, and strength.
It is altogethera splendid work, worthy of the governnvent
that perfected it, and of the two majestic rivers that are
connected together by it.
The two Provinces are united by a bridge built over La
Grande Chaudiere, it is called the Union bridge, a splen
did specimen of architecture ; the abutments of the bridge
rest on the rocks, which interrupt the current ofthe river,
and some idea may be formed of the bridge, the centre
arch forming an expansion of 270 feet. During the spring
of this year the main arch of this beautiful bridge gave
way, it is about to be repaired. This splendid national
undertaking, the Rideau canal, is now traversed by steam
boats, making a quick and easy comraunication fiar emi
grants. Theprincipal part of the settlers in .Curaberland,
Clarence, and Gloucester, are located along the banks of
the Ottawa river. An immense quantity of business is
transacted at Bytown, which, from its locality cannot but
flourish. This District sends three members to the House
of Assembly.
Araongst the many suggestions for settling the immense

144 UPPER CANADA.
tract of beautiful country, comprised within the Jrlome,
Newcastle, and Midland Districts, has been the improve
ment ofthe navigation ofthe raajestic river, the Ottawa ;
so as, to connect its splendid water with lake Huron, at
the upper end of Georgian bay, by the French river, and
through lake Nipissing. Although a stupendous under
taking, when it is considered vvhat an immense territory
would be rescued frora a wilderness — what mines of
wealth would be unfolded — what an extension of naviga
tion and commerce would be the result — and above gjl the
certainty of carrying the produce ofthis raighty territory,
and the trade of Michigan, to Montreah as a lover of Bri
tish interests I should glory in its accomplishraent. Mr-
Sheriff of Bytown — not Mr. Sheriff of Mungospark, Illi
nois—has been most indefatigable in his attempts to bring
this plan into notice,
I have been informed by a friend who hasjustreturned
from Bytown, that there is more lumbering doing on the
OUa^' river this year than in any previous season. There
is a general expectation that prices will be good next
year, and eyery exertion is raaking to take advantage of
the first arrivals in spring. As an illustration of the ex
tent to which lumbering is carried on the Ottawa, I may
mention that several trains were laden with oats at By-
town to proceed threti hundred miles up the river, to sup
ply the horses which are employed in the woods at that
distance. . >
; ' . Xba following is, extracted from the Bytown Gazette.
J,- THE TIMBER TRADE.
,.. In our last week's paper we statedour belief that much ofthe timber,
which' had been made during. the present season, would not reach the
l^uebec market. Since that titne, in conversirig.with many friends, 'who
are well versed on the subject, we find the probable quantity which
wjlljie detairied, will be no less, than 60,00P:^iece8, chiefly froin the
following rivers : ' . .

b?l*ER GANADAi t43
tn the Madawaska, above ^,350 pieces,
" Ottawa,, 9,000
Ohltite Grand Calumet, burtlt and stuck, 9,000
In the Fort Colonge river» 2,000
" . Sweyau, 1,300
" Pitawawa, 3,000
" Mattawa, 2,000
" Uattenaijj l2,000
In' other small tributary streatlis, 4,000 .
68*650 pieces.
We would observe that; when this otir staple trade is liable to so ma»
ny caeiielities, when such an amount of capital may be locked up and
unproductive in it, blind, cruel and unjust must that policy be, which
would subject it to greater risks and incumbrances by the removal of*
prt»tective duties, to gratify a few speculators in Baltic Timber.
<3>uantity of Timber, &c. despatched from the Chaudier f'alls, on
the Ottawa, for Quebec Market, from 5th to 12th July t
Bed Pine, 5,952 I Oak, 1,536
White Pine, 3,776 | W. I. Staves, 238
PYTOWjy MAilKBI'.

Flour, per barrel,

from

Oats, per bueheJ*

It

Barley per ditto

tt

Indian Corn

«

Potatoes

tf

Beef per lb.

tl

Pork per ditto

((

Veal per ditto

((

Mutton ditto

li

Lamb,

tt

Butter ditto.

<(

Eggs per dozen

t<

».

d. s.

d.

25

0 to 30

0

8

0 « t)

D

3

6 " 0

0

5

0 « 0

0

1

9 " 2

0

0

4 •' 0

S

0

6 «• 0

6|

0

4 " 0

5

0

5 " 0

6

0

6 " 0

7

0

8 » 9

0

0

8 " 0

0

The township ^ West Hawkesburyj irt the County
of Prescott, fronting the Ottawa, is the best settled in the
District, andcitmtains sOrae.excellent land, and fine farms ;
there are several roads cut through it, particularly the
one t6 Cofnwallj extending from north to south, on which
a ^tage runs. There are sorae good mills, distilleries,
raanufaetories, taverns and stores.. The township of
Qjloucester, In the County of Russell, is also a vexy: ifihis
towqshlp, eomprialdg sorae land.bf tbe best quaHty.^ p^s-
19 '' '

146 tJtPER CAfJA»A.-
sessing also the great advantages of being situated on fhe
Ottawa, and the Rideau. .Itis. admirably watered by a
nuniber of fine streams, supplying many mills ; the navf-
gation renders it a raost desirable location, besides the
land coraraunication which it possesses with the Johnstotvn
and Bathurst Districts. It is well worthy both the atten
tion of settlers and capitalists.
The lumberers pass a long distance into the country
above the Lake of Chats. The gallant Highlaoder, Mc-
NabjofMcNab, resides on the shores of this lake, at a
residence called Kinnel Lodge, a spot greatly resembling
in its bold, sorabre, and raajestic' aspect, the wildest and
most romantic scenery in his native iand. This distin
guished chieftan has received permission to raise a niilitid;
corps of 800 Highlanders, a class of British subjects always
distinguished for their devoted and chivalrous attachraent
to the laws, and institutions of their noble progenitors^
and who would prove a rampart of hving bodiesin de
fence, of British supremacy whenever and wheresoever
assailed.

THE bisTRicr OF johjustoVn,
Is divided into the two Counties of Grenville and Leeds,.
and these again subdivided into eighteen Townships.
COUNTY OP GUENVlLtE. ' •,
Townslirps. Ciittivated acres. Uneultivaied aoreii fap^\»t^an..
Edwardsburgbf -5,373 26,326 . , 2,004
iru.gusta, . 11,212 37j560 "«« 4,155
Wolford, 3,468 11,470 f 1.136
,Mp#ague, 2,922 416,960 l,02t
aiarWiorough, 1,400 9,383 514
South Gower, 3,011 -,, 7,563 641
Kgifii Gower, . , - 881 , 6,878 37^
©s«ferd, ..-^ 4,3^ • . 30,132 ! - . 4j;6&J

BPPER CANADA. 141
COUNTY OP LEEDS.
Ellzabethtown, 15,800 48,825 - 5,184 ,
Yonge, 10,325 34,297 3,239
Front of Leeds feLansdown, 3,421 19,978 1,359
Rear of Leeds feLansduwa, 2,640 13,948 9^
North Crosby, 394 3,225 354
South Crosby, 2,349 11,357 622
Burgess, 1,666 11,029 . 412
Bastard, 5,857 15,653 1,912
Elmsley, 3,276 20,455 1,262
Kitley, 4,502 17,-193 1,567
Total Assessment of Johnstown District, £198,991 10 0.
Horses, 3,924— Four year old Oxen, 3,510— Milch Cows, 9,649—
Horned Cattle, from two to (our year old, 3,179.
BROCKVILLE
Is the District town, and has long been admired for. the
beauty of its situation, the superiority of its buildings, the
fertility ofthe surrounding country, and its general salu
brity. It stands on a shelving bank, with a pretty slope,
frotn half a mile in depth to the edge ofthe river. It has
a southern aspect, and is delightfully shaded by groves of
majestic trees. It contains about 1,200 inhabitants ; there
are three churches. Catholic, Episcopal, and Presbyterian,
and one Methodist Meeting-house. There is a very su
perior District School, besides a Charity School, under
the immediate surveillance of an Episcopal Clergyraan,
and principally supported by raembers of that denomina
tion. The court-hou«e and jail are handsome stone
buildings, and the churches and many of the houses being
built with stone, and covered with tin, imparts a very in
teresting appearance to the place. The farms in this vii-
einity aVe large, the soil fertile, and well cleared, with
stone-wall fences, and often, good stone houses on them.
The wharves at Brockville ate very substantial and spa
cious. . ,' ,..

t%9 • Upper canad.*,
PRESCOTT
Is at the head of the rapids of the St. Lawrence,
inimediately opposite to Ogdensburgh; the St. Lawreoce
is here very broad. There are nearly four huiithcd
dwelling houses, many of them large, handsome, an(|
well-built stone houses, and several excellent stone stores.
There are'four places of worship. The catholic -church
is a stone building, but heavy ; the English and Scotch
churches, and the Methodist raeedng-house, are frame e-
rections. There is a custom house, and a very elegant
stone building, erected by the catholic clergyman, the
Rev. J. W, Champion', and denominated the' Grenville
College, 84 feet in length, with two wings, one at either
end 40 feet each in length, extending in a fine' garden
geometrically arranged, and lying between them and a
splendid stone mansion he has erected for his own resi
dence. 'Ihere is also a large foundry, a distillery, and a
Very extensive and substantially built' brewery, a short
distance frora the town, — a pottery and 'many shops be-
longltig to mechanics. There are seven good taverns and
some few groceries. There is a wind-mill near Prescott,
but no water-mills. There is an hospital for emigrants^
and extensive sheds for their reception- They are re
ceived with kindness and with open arms in Upper Cana*
da, whilst they are viewed'by a brutally ignorant faetKWi
in Lower Canada, as a curse. The former speeimenis
clearly evince thelosensate and deadly malevolence of
tl^B French leaders to men of British origin. I^he found-
iry lat Prescott has tdrned out steahi' engines equal ih
workmanship to any on the lakes. There is also ah es
tablishment for making coaches, sleighs, harhes^i &c.%e.
whicb supplies the country far and near. The pottery
also supplies the whole country between GlengaiTy and
BellvJUe. There is a Branch of the Commercieitl Bank

UPPER CANADA. 14S|i
and an agent of the Montreal Bank in Prescott, but a
siiccessfid application has been made to tbe Provincial
Parliament for the establibhmenf of a bank in the town
with a capital of £100,000. There are three common
schools, we'll- conducted, and a female seminary. When
the Grenville College comes into active operation it will
afford them a finished education. In connection with
this college or establishment, there will be a library for
general circulation, which will be bought at the public
expense, the proprietor supplying a number oT miscella
neous works : the proceeds of the library will be appro
priated to the clothing of poor cbildien who will bein^
structed gratuitously in tbe College. There is a weekly
newspaper and a monthly literary publication. The
town is incorporated but returns no Member to Parlia
ment. A board of poliee, elected by the inhabitants, is
authorized by an act of the Provincial Legislature. Pres
cott, being situated on the margin of the St. Lawrence*
and at the foot of the schooner navigation, becomes the
regular depot of all merchandize, and the point of em
barkation for every traveller from Quebec and Montreal
to the west. It is admitted to be extremely salubrious,
possessing a most beautiful and fertile back country, with
excellent tracts of fine timber lands in the iramediate vi-
cidity for ship building and other purposes. An enter
prising merchant at Prescott has already a ship-yard in
full operation. The first^steam-hoat which navigated this
river was launched here : and that splendid steara -boat,
the Great Britain, the raonarch of the lakes, was con-
strOcted here. A rail road from Lake Charaplain to Og
densburgh, connected with the Boston rail road, is about
to go' into operatton, which, wTien corapleted, in addition
to the above raen tioned. local advantages of Prescott, will
render itin a coramercial-point of view, inferior to no

150 UPPER CANADA.
town in Upper Canada. The election for the cotintjf
takes place in this town.
•:¦'¦ "There was launched this afternoon from the ship-yard of Messrs.
Hooker, Henderson & Co. a large and splendid centre- board .schooner
_of 130 tons burthen, intended for the carrying trade of lakes Ontario
and Erie. This vessel is so constructed as to warratit jhe belief that
she will be able to carry 800 barrels of pork through tbe Welland banal
V»ithout unloading. She is built and rigged in the most substantial
manner, and is superior to any other schooner on these waters. She
is an ornament to the lake, and reflects much credit on the owners,
and the builder, Mr. Sheay. She is named in honour ofour staunch
Constitutional Governor, Sra F. B. Head. The name gave great
satisfaction to the people here, and was received by tfhe most enthnsr-
BStic cheering by the multitude assembled to witness the launch, which
was the best we ever saw. . She was fully rigged and sails bent white
op the stocks, and looked beautiful as she glided gracefully into her
pative element."
GANNANOQUE
Is a small village, on the Gannanoque River, the hydrau
lic power at tbis .place is probably the best in the Province,
and if ever raanufactures should be, carried to much exr
tent, this village will be the nucleus for a large manufac
turing town. There are already in active operation, a
spacious dour mill, a saw mill, a pail manufactory, a cloth
manufactory, a foundry, a fulling mill, carding machine,
^. "The Gannanoque Creek, rushes headlong over
the precipice, into the St, Lawrence, and lias been viewed
with stupid curiosity by the savages for the last thousand
years. But the. genius of civilization and enterprise apr
proaehes, and by the touch of her magic wand, the whole
scene is inspired with a new and busier vitality : and a
cluster of factories and mills give employment, sustenance
and ultimately affluence to thousands. The value here
is not in the waterfall, but in the genius which turned it
to account : the capital and enterprise which created this
scene of prosperity and industry, which now maintains it

t-PTBR CAffAOA. JSJ
in active operation." There are other small villages in
the District— Beverly, Poi-tland, Maitland — all flourishing.
Also, Merrickville, where three beautiful locks of the Ri
deau canal are built : they are of a hewn stone, most se-
cuiely constructed, of large dimensions, and present a
grand an imposing appearance. '1 he land in this District
is throughout uncommonly good, the Farmers are doing
well, and of late years their debts are much dirainished*
The winters are particularly favorable for wheat, as the
heavy snows generally fall in the last of November, and
leave the ground at the latter end of March. The roads
are, of course, exceedingly fine in the winter, in conse
quence of the excelletice and duration of sleighing, and
very good in the summer for a new country. A few emi*
grants settle in this vicinity yearly, but the great bulk go
to thewestward, in the new townships in those portions
ofthe Province. In consequence of this, land, andim-
proved farms in particular, are cheaper than in the upper
part of the Province. At Yonge mills there is a flouring
mill on a grand and extensive scale, the property of the
Hon. C. Jones, who manufactured last year upwards of
^20,000 barrels of flour. There are also many other de
scriptions of millsand buildings. There are several large
lakes in the back townshipsof this District ; and in Lans-
down there are iron works. This District sends. five
Wtettibers to the House of Assembly. Black Leail and a
soft Soap-stone, with a smooth oily surface, is found aboiil
the Gananoque'lake/

152 tJPPER CAf«At5At
THE BATHURST DISTRICT.
Is divided into the two Counties of Lanark and CarletttH,
COUNTY OP LANARK.
Townsliips. tjncullivaled acras. CuliWateil acres. ABSeosmeni. ¦ Pofii»Iaiioni
Drummond, 6,810 32,371 £27,691 2,822 ,
Bathurst, 6.572 83,756 21.418 2,251
Bedkwith, 6,634 31,487 19,010 2,125
North Sherbrooke, 897 5,681 2.748 36«
South Sherbrooke, 321 4.311 1,399 168.
Lanark, 6.634 30,277 18,446 1,8S0
Dalhousie, 4.676 21.295 11.^24 1.108
Ramsay, 6,469 35,502 20,255 2.188
Darling, 482 3,450 J, 536 197
Horton, 781 8,120 3,460 2^
COUNTY OF CARLSTON.
Goulbourne, 6,946 32,064 19,550 2,330
Huntly, 2,684 25,460 11,091 l,l90
March, 1,953 15.120 7,592 538
Packenham, 1,^47 9,640 8.656 682
Fitzrov, 1,194 24.2S0 9,813 762
Torboiton, 496 5,940 2,2^5 190
McNab, 856 10,650 4,659 513
llgpfean, 4,145 23,990 27,748 3,186
Hckrses, l„541r— Four year old Oxen, 3,.332— Milch Cows, 6,541 —
T\*6 yea? old Horned Cattle 3,586.
This flourishing and beautiful District, bounded by the
Ottawa, and by tshet Rideau withlake Ontario, ahoundsin
villages, streams, new settlements, lakes,^s colonized by
Highland and Lowland Scotchmen, and exhibits the
character of a fine and thriving District. The land though
marshy?,; in tnany ;parts, is extremely rich, consisting of
day and yellow loam — 'the timber of the forest is large,
lofty, and of every variety— the rivers Rideau ,and MissMi''
sipi, Clyde, and T'ay, falling into the Ottawa, noble rivers
turning raachinery, run through raost ofthe townships— r-
and a reference to the table will show the value and extent
of cultivation in the District.
RICHMOND
is about twenty railes frora Perth, it is situated oti the
York river, the country between it and Perth is well set
tled, although low and swarapy. it forms the Rideau

bpPE? CANADA. JS$
feetliemerit, and Owes its prosperity tn a great raeasure to
the extent of the li^inber tfade carried on aldn^ ^tb^ Otta^
vva river. i*ERTH
isn'ot only beaittifully situated, biit is iii A very flourish^
ing condition. It is irt the centre df a thriviqg, Well
Cultivated country, and holding diirect cohiraunicatioii
With two inland rivers, tt is built Oti a small branch 01
ihe Rideau, called the Tay, and lies nearly equidistant
bebVeen the Bt. LaWrKrice on the Sbuth, and thie Uttawgi
behind, enabling it to carry on an extebsive trade with
Kingston on the one, and Bytown on the other. Th6
farms around it, are extensive, well cleared, very fertile*
anti have capital buildings on thera. In the town of
Perth there are sdme of the best built buildiiigii in thd
country. Nearly in the centre of the town, there is Ai
lofty hill, on which the court-holise, jatij, and two chutfch-
fes hdve been fejrected. The streets are laid out uniform-^
iy, and are between 60 Jind 70 feet in breadth. The po-
pulatitin exceeds 800 ,* there are good raills, taverns, and
stoi-es at Perth; Property has gready advanced in valud
ih this neigbboiirhodd, but there are still lands, both wil^
and cultivated^' to be met with at moderate prices. , This
District sends foiir merabers to the House of Assembljf.^^
JFrom this District principally, and from the Ottawa, thd
McNab will raise his brave and hardy band of flighland«
ers for a militia.

154

tPFER CASAtJA.
THE MIDLAND DISTRICT

fe. divided into three Counties, Frontenac, Lenox and

Addington, and Hastings.

COUNTY

OF PROfJTBNAC.

ToWDBhips. ,. Coltiyafed acies. UDcoltivaled acres.
Assessment.
Fopuialrtiifa-
Kingston, '• ' 12.1:45
32.740
£43,492
3.613
Pittsburgh,' • 4;515
17,162
17,230
1,38»
Loughborouahr, 6,816
14,00^
15,613
1,434
Portland, ' " ' 2,559
10,339
7.782
670
Wolfe Island, ¦ 1,909
7,315
5,771
530
Town of Kingston, 698 Town Lots,
84,610
4,281
COUNTY OP LENOX AND ADDfNeTON.
Ernest ¥own* 20,097^
36,045
62,796
3,873-
Predericksbwgh, 13,617
22,199
38.573
2,594
AdolphustowD, 6,043 , .
5;250
14.097
661
Richmond; 5,998
22,129
22.551
1,642
Camden, ' 8,583 ¦
30,305
27,058
3,252
Sheffield, 587
6,630
2,814
309
Amhersi Island, 2,576
8,225
7,001
738
COUNTY
OF HASTINGS.
Sidney, 14,324
30,941
41.341
no return.
fhurlflw, . 10,171
27,000
57,738
3,938
Kawdon, 1,575
6,994
6,373
625
M»rmora, 1,006
7,664
4,059
273
Huntingdon, 1.222
8,695
4,246
437
Hungerfordr 7^6
10,125'
4,016
420
Madoc, 932
7,887
3,745
no return.
Tyendinaga^ 3,227
17,224
13,221.
1,443
Horses, 5,628 — O^en of four year old and, upwards, 3;368— Milch
Cows, ll;899-i-Horaed Cattle from two to four year old, 3,678.
KINGSTON
Is finely situated at the eastern end, and on the north
bank of Lake Ontario, at its junction with the St. Law
rence. It has a population of nearly 6,000 persons. It
is celebrated in having been, during the war, the naval
depot. The peninsula forraed by Point Frederick, ex
tending half a raile into the lake, and being opposite tOf
and distant frora the town, about three quarters ofa raile^
forras a deep inlet, and secure harbour, called Navy Bay,
Itis a place of great strength also as a military positiow.
It contains several fine churches, and many excelleni
stone buildings; the streets are paved, and there are se^^
CPPER CANADA. IBb
eral large wharves. A maiiiie rail-w'ay has been form
ed, and a great deal of business is carried on in the dock
yard. The barracks are spacious; a long, but handsome,
wooden bridge is thrown over the river, counecdng KingS;
ton with forts Henry aud Frederick and the village of
Barriefiehi, which is pleasantly situated. Fort Henry, sitr
uated on tbe extremity of the ridge forming Point Henry,
is a stupendous fortification of great strength: it covers an
area of one acre; its walls and outworks are extremely
massive. The fort and ditches are finished in an admira
ble manner, but it will occupy rauch time before the gla
cis is levelled, and the outworks are completed. The
bulwarks and walls exhibit a formidable appearance.—
This gigantic work is being executed at the expense of
the raother country. Thie hospital at Kittgston is a beaii-
tiful stone building, and is conducted in the raost satis
factory manner. There are several excellent societies in
Kingston, humane and literary; there is also a library
and reading room. The Provincial Penitentiary is about
a mile and a half from Kingston : it is a strong, large,
stone building: its interior construction is admirable, and
the arrangeraents well calculated to effect the desirable
pilrpose for vvhich it was erected.
I rode with Bishop Macdonell to Kingston Mills, a
distance of seven miles from the town: the ride is pretty
and sequestered: they are at the entrance of the Rideaii
Canal. The locks here are splendid, and the scenery
beautiful. 'I he lovely valley is enclosed by lofty cliflfs of
noble granite, finely wooded witb varieties of pine, fir,
elm and birch trees. The old mills erected by the Bri
tish Government for the use of the U. E. Loyalists, are
still standing, and form, together vvith the splendid mason
ry ofthe Rideau Canal, convincing proofs of its earnest
solicitude to d^ ample justice to its Canadian subjects. I

iS9 fW-PER fJANABA,
Ciaimotomit memionitig the very superior accomraodc^tloi^
fo be met Widi IB the British Hotel, kept by Mr. Mae^
dt>iiald, a most attentive and oibliging landlord. There
pre several newspapers published in Kingston. On tbe
Whi^e, Kingston is a beavrtifol town, strongly fortified, —
?*5(tnti\anding the St. LaWlrence, ^nd, Lake Ontario, aud
possessing the advantage «>f the Rideau Ca^ie^i It ia e^-.
tremel;^ dry, and he^^lt'hy-^h'aa a fine bisack country,which
inust attract the attention of (^terjprisiflg capitalists «i«<|
ens^iye its lasting pi^spci^y^.
JK1?hLA^I^EY, west LOUQfl]piaRO.^GH,
Tliis rising Ijatnlet or '^mall y-illagej known by ^Ihe vB:ri,qits pameft cf
t'MtsGriBgqr's M^lls^'' t'Miiirray's MiWs,**. "Rivs^ellts,'^ wd ?'i^tj.ugb,-
'bor^ugh Mim'' li?is i^tely l?e^pe the, property 'pfG. W. Yarker. Esq,
pf Kingsto,q, ^^d would mpst pro.bably pbta'jn tti^ fiesbtitlepf Yarker"^
Mills, wfsre it not fteemed advisaltle by tl^e ciMef ^ohabtiants to narae
the place tbfetnselrea, and thus prevelit it Ia'k^ngtbe cognomen liffcverj
add each gentleiifatj, who chooses to become ^ts p,iH'ch^ser. ItsBitoa-.
fionis ait tbe outlet oif a Ipveiy l^ke, remisadins tl^ biebplder of l^fce
Killarney lii Ireland, and the immediate vicinity pf an old Irish settle-.
pient, ^sug^ested the name of Killarney, which pi^ojb^bly will be tb^
^^me by which it will ultimately descend to posterity,
Thtit t'he&iize of the place lentitles it to i|ie cpnsiclered a villftg#, thfe
ffnuinerati'on of the -follawmg buil^.ings clearly shows : i^ Stone gri^A
mill, with two runs, a^handsbme'saw-TircIl, withtwasaws, a large na!erct(«
^mt'sf^te anddwellfilf, tbe P5'pperty pi" Mr, Yorker, tfee merchant'*
store of Mr. H; Madd^ii.,^thedwel|ing-ho>use, tannery, and ^eatbeic stone.
pf Mr. B, Waters, the stone dwelljng-liouse an4 saw-mijt of Mr. |*!
Switzer, the inn of Mr. Sotib SwiiZer, the fuHiag mill, cardlng=maphiii^
fmd dwelling-house of Mr, H, •Grann^, the hotise antf black^fth'4
obop of Mr. P, Haigbt, tlieitailor's'shop'ofMr. Mpss, the.Si^fn lrou,i
eesiQf Messrs. Wodd and Blake, besjdes several .other. ^rectio(i9,;itb©
pccgpants pf.wrhich are unknpwn to-us, .
The wantof a,ppsto.flf^ce has beenlpn^ qi»c( severely fph by the in-
liaVit^nts, a^d has cpntributed to prevent their increasing in popula-
tiptt.-go much as the Pxcellent situation of their •yillage would otherwise
'^nanrartt, I^hiswant js as much owingta tte.sBpinenras «f the peqile^
98 tq^^ negligeDcfe ^f ft&Deturty .Post Master Genferalj who Unfesi;^
fee h *f eci^lly inforined of then.ecessi^ of the cgse, wnnpt be expect-

IJPPEI5 €ANAt)A, 15?
e4 to know it. A meeting, however, we see is now advertised for Sa
turday week, to take this matter into consideration, when no ^uubt, if
the post-ofiice is properly petitioned for, it will he immediately granted'.
[Since the writing of theabove, Mr. St?(yner has kindly supplied the
wants ofthe inhabitants, by the establishnjtent pf a post-oifBce.J '
Rillarneyis s'bout sixteen miles from Kingston, due nprth,^and in
the middle ofthe goad land in Loughboj-ongh, although pnly in the 4th
concession. When we say sixteen miles, we mean in winter, for in
summer time the depth ofthe mud hales has tp be added to the length
pf the Way, which willbTing it to eighteen miles, the tisually estimatei^l
(lls'tance. ' BELLEVlLLi;.
The site ofthe Town' pf Belleville is situated between Kingston and
Toronto, on the shore o,f the Bay of Quinte ; origihally claimedhy the
Missisagua Indians as a landing place, and called by the Saganasheo^
caa, where they nsu^illy received their p;resents from Government, de-i
manding a yearly acknowledgement ftom its settlers for their possesi
sions. The late .J W. Myers afterwards claimed it under a 99 years*
lease, said to have been granted to him by that tribe; hence the creeK
pr river ru,nning thrpug'h the adjacent lot took the nameofMyer'a
Creek, described in a grant tp one Singleton, "Singleton's River.**
Since the Tqwp,haa been laid out, it has assumed the new and more
appropriate name of the River Moira. At an inconsiderable expense.
\ht river cpuld be made navigable'for sleam-baata and other crafls to
the bridge, an advantage which should not be lost sight of by the vni
habitants, particularly those residing on the banks, south ofthe bridge,'-
whose propisrty would, become greatly enhanced by wharfs and othef
ahippij\g conveniences. In the year J80C!, the village was laid out b^
Samuel Wilmot, !^sq. King's Surveyor, under the immediate orders
?md instructions of Government, ap.proprit(tingl6isfora gacil andtourt
house, churches, chapels, and for other public'buildings ; granting tp
individuals who had 9i,ade improvements, the several lots they occu.-.
pied. The maiii streets are' <j6 feet wide, called Fi-ont, Pinnacle, Parl^
find Rear Streets, intersected by cross streets ofthe sara,e width.'
Belleville is said to contain about 1800 inhabitants^ Thefe is aq
English and Bcofch Churlih, a Roman Catholic and Methpdist-chapel^
also a congregation pf Episcbpal Methodi'sts, and one of American
preabyterfana; 35 m.erch.^nt shops, 2 apothecaries and d.f uggist,' ISI
hucksters ahd grocery shops, 9 taverns, 3 breweries, 2 flouring; 4 saw,
and 2 fulling and carding mills, 1 pail factory, 7 blaclssmith shopuv 3
cahinjEt-iQakOTSi 2 whctelwrrgfbts,' 3 harness makers, 3 tanoetses, a^

. .V^'lL.

158 CPPER CANADA.
mechanics of almost every description. In Front Street there are a
nutnber of spacious bxick, stone, and frame buildings, being the iiixst
central part of the town for business. The Town has recently been
called East and West Belleville; separated by the river Moira — the
latter has been laid out by the present owners, and the aireecs and lines
defineJ. The one called Coleman street, west of the river, is 6U teet
wide from the Bay Shore, to the new mills, where it intersects the road
leading to the 2d concession of Sidney, on which street there are erect
ed a handsome brick aud olb^r stone and frame buildings^ a trip ham
mer forge, and a^e manufactory, carried on by Mr. Procter, xelebrsted
for making the best axes in the Province. A eaw-miil in full opera
tion, and a flouring mill with 4 run of stone now erecting, and onother
Ibr 6 run now in coutemplation of being built ne&t summer, by our en
terprising townsman Mr. Flint. A cabinet maker, blacksmith shop
and 2 taverns, together with a variety of lots unsold, some of which are
calculated for hydraulic purposes, and on which tiiere are abundance
of materials for stone buildings. The same street leads to the exten
sive wharves and storehouses belonging to Mr. Billa Flint, wbich bid
fair to rival those on tlie east side ofthe river from their having an ex
tensive sweepof.navigE^ble water for vessels of considerable burden.
There are few towns jn the Province with such valuable mill privilegea
that oSer to the capitalist^an unbounded field of enterprise. The vast
and extensive tracts ofthe best quality of land in the rear townships,
abounding both in rich iron and other mineral ores (the former in suffi
cient quantity to supply the continent of America with the best quality
of Iron) where the Cholera, the scourge of the human race, has never
made its appearance is the best evidence of its salubrity, and must in
sure to the town of Belleville permanent and solid advantages as accm-
mercial and manufacturing town. The liberal terms on which the
lots in West Belleville are ofiered, place it within the power of all des
criptions of persons ofindustrious habits to insure to themselves pro
perties that will iu a few years increase in value beyond their most san
guine expectations, of which several have already by their purchases,
both in East and West Belleville, realized.
It would be bojli superfluous and unnecessary to speak of Belleville
as being thebest adapted and eligible situation for the contemplated
New PistriclTown, long ago acknowledged by an appropriation of
lots by Government for a gaol and court-house. Without disparage
ment to the River Trem, we can boldly say, no other place within fiAy
inilespftbe county, can ofler the like conveniences and comforts '<oc
the oMcers and attendants of court. The contemplated opening of oa-

VPPKR CANADA, ISSf
«ga;ion between the Bay and Lake Ontario — connecting the waters
ofthe Trent with the upper Lakes, may be looked upon as an event
tliHt speidily will take place, and insure to Belleville an importance e-
qual tn any other part ofthe Pfovjuce, and a market where the farmer
is sure to obtain the highest caslrprice for his prodisce; with a circnla-
ting medium equal to the Wiinta of the Province, by an extensive aiid
liberal Imnking system, will induce enterprising men to establish wool
en and otlier manufactures; n subject of paramount importance to the
future advancement ofthe Province.
BATH. .
The village of Bath is finely situated, and continues in
creasing with great rapidity; it has many houses, stores,
taverns, and carries on an excellent trade.
COLD CREEK.
Among these villages the flourishing hamlet at the mouth of Cold
Oreek, is deserving, both from its size and situation, of being better
known than itappears to be at present. About eight miles above th«
mouth ofthe Trent, on its west bank, a large stream with a fall of se
veral feet at its moutti., empties itself intotbe Trent in almost the only
part of that river free from rapids, until the Highlands are passed. Mr.
Scott, one ofthe old settlers ofthe country, and a proprietor of tho
adjoining land, here erected a grist and saw mill some years ago, but
beyond theseerections and his own dwelling hoase^ nothing further
was done, until within these two years, when Mr. W. R. Bowen, a
magistrate and merchant of Richmond, removedhis family and h«s. es
tablishment to the Creek, with the intention of settling the place. 
Since his arrival, an important alteration has taken place, Houses
have been put up as it were by magic; meclianics of all kinds have es
tablished themselves? two taverns have been opened, and trade of all
kinds seems to be far more brisk than in many other places three
times its size. A bridge has been here thrown across the Trent, which
although unfini8he,d at the time ofour visit, will probably be completed
early in the spring. On the opposite side ofthe river, there has ex
isted for many years a cluster of houses, that in course of time raight
have grown into-a village, but now can only aspire to be a suburb of
its neighbour. A road to the mouth of the Trent is made on both
sides, hut that on the west bank is the best and most frequented..
This village is not named. Most persons call it Scott's. Mi!l8,'from
its original proprietor; others again, Cold Creek, from tbe name of ',
tbe Creek; and a few are willing fo name it Waterford', from the exists- '

160 bji^Eft icanABAv
tence of a safe and convenient fordi in the immedialie vicinity. W8
take the liberty of suggesting to the inhabitants the propriety bf calling
It meeting to name the Village, and at the sskme'time they might drat^
the attentioh df the Provincial Post-master General (by petition) to^
Wards establishing a Post Office. From the number of reSpebtabM
and wealthy getitlemeh settled tlown in the country Back <jf Cold Creek
a- post-ofiice established nearer than ttie moilth cif the Trerii would be Ai
(i^^irable convenience, to say nothing at all of the Wants Of the villa-
gers» who from their eXten&ive trade ib lumber, would be much beiie-
fitted by it.
The country is good along the Napanfee and kifch-
tnond Rivers, throiigh the towtishipis of Richliiond and
Tyendinaga to Shatinonville, but ftill deiiseiyWdtrded.— ^
'I he beautiful headlands of the Bay of Quinte, and th6
lovely and romantic scenery along the banks oTthe Trerit
to RawdoO) is more xJonipletely British than any thing 1
have witnessed in the Provintiei There is abitndance oif
fine land in the townships of Sidney Rawdon^ Miirrayj
and Seymour. Sidney is well settled, and the land itt
the highest state of cultivation. It is a fine towhship, well
worthy of* attention. Ernest-town artd Fredericksburgh
are well settled: the farms are good and of reasonable
price. In the township of Mafmora, situated on the
lake and river, are the Marmora Iron WorkSj which
give employment to a numeroiis body of men. The land
iti the back townships is not very good; that in the towii-
sfaip of Seymoilr is ex;cellent, and settled Jby a highly re^
spectable body of men.
MADOC.
This towHship, hitherto little noted, is bounded Pii th^ north hj^ Til-
dor, on'^the east by Elziver, south by Huntingdon, and West by Mar
mora. It Is distant from Belleville about twenty-eight mileg, its area
is 70,000 acres, 60,0iD0 of which are fairming land, 30*000 of which are
eqiial to any lands in the Province for strength of soil, convenience of
Water .%pd beauty of timber. There is now resident in. the township
eighty-one families, making a population of about two hundred soiils.
These have nearly 4000 acres under good' improvement, and raise an

UPPER GANABAi
Abundance ofallth^ siibstantiftla^ of life for thd,<:dhsiitnptidti i»f the inr
habitants, besides manufacturing large quantities of potash for export
ation. There isat present biit oiie flouring and bne sa,w-tl1ill ilj, town*
Tliey are owned by Pur eiiterptising fellow townSmanj D. Mdckenziej
Who is making thorough repairs and Extensive additions to them at
^reat expense, in order to mefet the ^roWin^ detnaWds Pri that esta-
hlishmerit for the coming yeari Ab iroti work iS lioW heint built iri
the vicinity of the above mills, bjf Messrs. Petldergast 3s Qp. gentle
men from the Utiited States. TbiS work iVill Stand bn lot No. li of the
6th concession. This establishment Is Pne of great consiequence tP
Madoc and the siirrourlding country, for *e drP informed^ when in ope«
t'ation, it will give constant employment, irt all departments ofthe busi-
nessi to ohe hundred hands. The ore to be stnelted is the magnetic
oxide, and will produce about 70 per c(^nt of il^bn. This extensive '
and valuable bed of irOii ore is on lot No. tl. Of the 5th concession^
and was bought ofthe Canada Cotttpaily, whoj with a hbelralTly rarely
to be met with, have sold it to the present oWners at an advance beyond
the ordinary price of lands iii the neighbourhood, dn condition only
that they should improve ii. This idwnship bocltains Pther valuable
minel^alS, such as b^ds of fine marblej; zinc, leadi ahd prbpably copper,
Which might be worked tP great profit, These» added-tci as fine a soil
as the World produces.,, pure and abutidant stceatiis of Water, .fine tlmbetf
and a healthy coiin,try, all conspire to render Maddc at thi^tihieasde<'
feirable alocatiotifpr the fartneri the capitalist, atid the mail df sbieRca^
aa aisy in the ProvincCi ClNADiAN FAtR&i
TO TtlE BDITOK OP ttlE KlNGSTCJN dHRONiCL^:
Sir — That valuahle. European custom of liolding Fairs semi-atihiialiy
is fast gaining ground in this Province ; the farmers are learning, by
ejcperience, thdt a Mart for horses, cattle, grainy Sic. twiiie eVery year#
where Cash is generallj? paid,. &rid purchasers, are in waitings, is pre.-'
ferable io the farmer's rUinbus practice Pf Trader . sis it is iechrticaliy
termed, and the merchants, aitctioiieers, &c. aritieipate th^ Fair with
elated expectation^ arising from an almost sure market for their varied
eommoditieS. These facts have been pleasingly proved, to demdti^ird*
tion- at the late Fair held at Napanee pn the 1st, 2d and 3d instat)!;;
The march of intelletit is fast progressing^ aiid those who were a feW
years ^ince shrouded- in natural, Pr rather ignoraiit diffidence, arii ad^
fifing thaf: ^iritofetaulaition which i& th&i invariable cd^rac^eHfitiiSi
of 9 p^oi$perpu^,c.Ptintrv«q^ col^ny^ij 4i^i|[, thof^/vttiieitlfe^idiR^ifli ihf

162 tJPl«KR CASAtJA.
Counties of Lenox and Addington, evinced their capability of appred*
Bting the vast advantages accruing from the

and actually sellinsfor Cash,
713 "bushelsWh'e'at,
159 " Cdrft,

Napanee Fair, by entering
3 Entire Horses,
93 Working "
12 Young " I" 190 '* Rye,
100 Cows 104 " Peas,
47 Oxen 1 51 " Barley,
. -'40 Young Cattle, • 61 " Oats,
Sales of horsey &c- could not be ascertained from the disposers not
informing the Clerk, but doubtless the sales realized their most elated
expectations. The business of the Fair was not interrupted for a ma->
ment by. intoxication or disturbance; all was conducted with regularity
.and despatch, which does credit to the farmers and others who were
in attendance. To the praise of the Managers of the Fair they were
prompt and indefatigable in making every exertion for tbe p. oper con^
ducting of business, evincing that public spiritedness which has been
worthily attached to their names. JOHN O. DELTOR, Clerk.
Napanee, March 5, 1836.
, A reference to the map will show the number and
inagnitude ofthe Lakes with which these Districts; ia
the eastern division of Upper Canada, abound. This Dis
trict returns seven Members to the House of Assembly,

PRINCE EDWARD DISTRICT,
Is-divided into the following townships :
Townships. Cuhivoled acres. UacuIlJvated acres. Assssemeot, fopulatiaik
Hallowell, 82,275 37,572 £6S,153 4,034
Sophiasburgh, 14,240 24,573 43,356 2,341
AmeUasJjurgb, 10i521 26,589 30,784 2141
HHlier, 12,793 16,621 30,963 im
Marysburgh, 9,072 23^^205 28,280 3,065
. Horses.'2,922-Ftjuryear old Oxfen, 1367— Milch Cows, 5!763—
Horned Cattle, from two to foijr years old, 1,400.
Although swampy in some parts, the land in this lovely
island is extremely good: the villages of Picton and
HaUowell, in the township of Hallowell, are derightfiil-

VPPER CANADA. 163
ly situated. There is constant communication by steam
boats and schooners in summer, and the sleighing in the
Bay of Quinte is excellent during the winter. There are
churches, schools, taverns and stores, in this District, and
land of excellent quality can be obtained at a reasonable
rate. It -is an interesting part of Upper Canada. The
country is beautifully diversified with picturesque and ro
mantic views of hill, dale, and water. This District re
turns two Members to the House of Assembly. One
newspaper is published in it, called the Traveller, both
m matter and manner highly respectable. This District
offers very tempting inducements to agriculturalists : the
soil is excellent, the timber valuable, communications
constant, and the situation delightful. The Traveller ia
speaking ofthe number of emigrants arrived this year,.
now more than 25,000, notices this district as follows: —
On Monday, 25th July, the schooner Prince Edward, Capt. Youngi,
discharged a cargo of salt, at the new pier which is now in the course-
of erection, at Wellington, by that spirited and enterprising gentleman,.
Archibald McFaul, Esq. This schooner is the first vessel that has-
been enabled to unload at the pier, since its commencement, but the
work is now proceeding so steadily and rapidly, that by tho first or
September or thereabouts, vessels of almost any burthen, will be able
to unload witb safety and ease, and the pier Will then vie in appearance-
and strength, with any in the Province. It is also expected that several'
ofthe Lake Steamboats will make it a slopping place, on their passage
to an^ from Toronto, one in particular, iswe believe already pledged
to do so, frora the time the pier is completed, until the end ef the pre
sent season.
From all th^ accounts we have seen, we are inclined to think, that
the number oCemigrahts arriving at Quebec, during the- present-year,.
will equal, if not exceed that of any previous year,, notwithstanding the
prosperous times in England, which have naturally induced us to ex
pect a corresponding diminution in the number of those who annually
leave their native land to seek a new home in the new world. We are
glad to see this, and.stiU more do we- rejoice to see- that most of them-
bend th'eic course to Upper Caii^da, to assist ih,sti:eng,^hemng. the bond-

1€4( trfMR CidNAlSA,
^ich unites us to (he tnMher country. There ia aniple room for theni
^11, thc(re are regions in the west ctill unsettled, still uncleared, aud
there are many delightful locations in those sectiiina of the Province,
which have been settled for many years, which invite the atientiou
alike oTthe capitalist, the gentleman, the affjzan, and the labourer. In
tbelatter list we may rank oar own beautiful and fertile District, of
which we safely say that to the natives ofthe British Isles, it ofjers at-.
tractions ioferior tp none, superior to most ofthe pther parts of the Pro
vince. Indented with beautiful bays and almost entirely surrounded
by navigable waters, it needs only to be examined to be admired, and
we hope that many who have not yet fixed upon a location, will paugQ
pnd view the beauties of Pri nee Edward District, erf their lot in life
i» cast, perhaps forever, But above all, we want more labourers, we
thought that a cargo of 115 sopls would have supplied our wants for
pome time, but we were mistaken, More are wanted yet, and the sooner
they come the better for themselves and their employers.
THE NEWCASTLE DISTRICT
Is divided into two counties,. Northumberland Sf Durham,
COUNTY OF NQHTHUMBERLANIl.
Townahipi), CJjitivated acres, ITncuUivated ?cree. Asseasngent, Papulation,
Asphodel, 1.620 13,353 ^ 5,983 428
Hamilton, 13,160 26.702 50,392 3,708
Craraahe, 10,039 34,859 31,624 3 247
Smith,, 4.077 21,172 11,7(18 l',087
Haldimand. 12,483 2^,730 29,371 2,295
Monagban, 1,816 14,363 17,751 1,607
Seymour, . 1,205 19,156 7,252 636
Percy, 1,855 6,670 6,281 512
Ennismore, 604 5,113 2,045 236
Murray, 7,773 88,443 28,558 2,064
Otonabee, 4,26a 29,430 16,335 1,260
Douro, 4,730 16,385 7.975 744
Pummer, SPTS, 18,194 5,587 693
COUNTY Ot" t>UR'tIAiy(.
Emily, 2.686 26,470 11,655 1,518
Clarke, 6,245 19,681 17,016 1,635
Darlington, 5,686 ^.5;746 21,288 1,865
Cavan, §,5^4 36,705 35,218 2 575
^Idon, 1,163 14,333 5,338 694
Ops, 1,198 33,077 8,340 931
Hope. 10,5^ 27,835. 41,516 3,739
Mariposa, 799 10,468 4,002 615
Manvers, . . - 154
Horses. 3.3g^Four year old Oxen, 4,«»5-Milch Cu^^s, 7,695-™
Bbrned C?rrtle, from t«rq to font years old; 3,^7,

\l Tl

BPPEH CANADA. l&S
This District has a greatef chain of lakes and water
communication, than any Other 'portion of Upper Cana
da, and a great deal of controversy has existed as lo the
practicability of making ii available for navigable purpo
ses, ^so me contending that the improvement of the Ri
ver Trent would be rftost advisable, — others desirous of
connecting the Rice Lake with Lake Simeoe through
tbe long chain of lakes,— -and others anxious that the Ot
tawa should be connected with Lake Huron, to secure
the North West Trade to Montreal. Whatever decisiott
will be finiUly adopted, itis very certain that the agitation
of the question alone; brings forward, in a prominent de
gree the vast capabilities of this interesting section of the
Province, which must one day be covered with schooners
and steamers, carrying to distant markets, the produce of
its enterprising settlers. It abounds with villages, and
has some highly respectable families located in it. The
township of Hamilton is bounded in the front by Lake
Ontario, and in the rear by the RJceLake. , The village
of Cobourg, in this township, is pleasantly situated in a
fine bay on Lake Ontario; — it contains a population of
1,30Q pTerSons. Its streets are remarkably clean — the
houses regular and painted. There are three brick and
five large stone houses;^-a neat English church contain-.
ing an organ, and having for its pastor a most exemplary
and worthy man; — a fine large stone wind-mill, several
stores, a most excellent tavern, and two printing, presses,
which supply Cobourg, and its vicinity, with two week
ly newspapers. There is also a Seminary, built by mem
bers of the methodist persuasion, in a fine, high, and
commanding situation. It is four stories in height, 135
feet frontage:— ^it is a brick building covered with stucco :
the centre part is surmounted with a cupola. The farms
TQund this wcifhbourhood are excellent, well cleared, and'

166 UrPER CANADA.
in finfi cultivation, adtnirably adapted for grazing: the
orchards are well stocked wilh choice fruit trees. The
jail and court-house is a large stone building ; it stands 0(i
a commantling situation, embraces a fine view ofthe
iake and surrounding country; it is tvvo miles above
Calitvurg on Dundas street, in the village of Amherst. —
The road from Cobourg to the Rice Lake, thirteen miles,
is through a pleading country, particularly about midway
at a plaee called the Cold Springs, a fine valley, lying be
tween two lofty hills. The road from this place gently
rises until you come near the Rice Lake, of which, apd
lis beautiful islands, you obtan a fine view; the slope from
theftce is gradual and pleasing. In Rice Lake there are
many islands, large and small. Its Indian name is Pe-
iri^dashkautiong. There are immense quantities of wild
fowl here, that live upon the rice. From Sully the lake
is crossed, to ascend the Otanabee river, which divides
the townships of Monaghan and Otanabee. Both the
Otanabee and the Trent empty themselves ijilo Rice
Lake. The river is very beautifully skirted by thickly
wooded banks, which rise gradually towards PETEitBO-
Boc^H. ' This village stands on a fine elevated, sandy
plain, and in a very central siti^ation in the District: — it
is divided by the river, and is immediately adjoining and
above the small lake* It commenced In 1825 under the"
superintendance of the Hon. P. Robinson, who lived with
a large body of Irish emigrants for some time. It iS;^
beautifully wooded with choice trees. A very good
and substantial frame bridge has been -erected across
the Otanabee river at this place. It contains a po
pulation of J, GOO persons, and continues stfll improving.
There are two churches, several stores, excellent mills,
good inns, schools, adisliilery, and.some very respectable
epttlers in the neighbourhood.. From PeierbOrougbjto the.

UPPER CANADA. - lo»
Chetnong lake, is a distance of six miles across the town-,
ship i)f Smith. From Ch'emong Lake there is water com-
munication to the upper extremity of Sturgeon Lake, a
distance of eight miles, passing by the township ofEnnis-
tnore, Emily,, Verulam, Harvey, Fenelon, Ops, Cartwright
Eldon, and Mariposa. There is excellent land in all these
townships, and panially cleared farms may be obtaine^
at moderate prices. A few years hence, when thecapa--
bilitiesof this fine District are fully established, they will
be improved and greatly augmented in value. At the
moiithof the Trent, which emptiesitstif into the Bay of
Quinte, is situated the village of that name: — it contains
600 inhabitants, and many town-lots bave been recently
sold at high prices. It must eventually becorae a very
flourishing town, possessing as it does an excellent har
bour, being situate at the head ofthe Bay of Quinte, and
terminating the great water communication from Lake
Simeoe. This river is, at this point, at least a quarter of
a inile in width.
Unquestionably, a rail-road to Cobisurg would confer vast beneliiar
pn this portion ofthe country; let ihem have as many rail roads and
Canala to Cobonrg and Port Hope as the inhabitants of. tho^e places
Hj,ay deemproper and requisile^; biit I do positively, and confidently
assert, that nothin^short of opening tbe entire navigation of the Trent
would confer any solid or permanent benefits to this extensive por
tion of the District; — itis our natural outiet to the sea; improving th»
navigation batckwards would be working against nature and (he stream.
I am glad to find the settler admits, tliat the general state of the coun
try, (facta are .stubborn things,) and more particularly the lumber
trade^ calls fpr a water communi,cation. Admitting tbe "long line" to
be now completed, what advantage would it be to Peterboroogh, com
pared with the improvement ofthe -Trent? Where is the trade, — where
is the, produce, and where are the inhabitants to support it) Do not
Suppose that I am adverse to improving the navigation back to Peter-
boroogh, rl adoiitits, utility"; but .that day has not come yet. • First of
all open the, Trent, and with a very trifling improvement, the Qtonaber
from Peterborough to Rice Lake, will answer our present purposes: —
a canal to Mud Lake must follow : by means of these improvenient?,

160 _ IJPtEB GANAbA.
the lands along the back waters will become settled^ and tlieni bttt
not until then, is there the least necessity for such an enormous outlay^
lothelrtjury of the-DTstrict at large. On the other hand, by opening
Ihe Trent, Peterborough and all the surrounding country, will iiiji
prove beyond calculation ; tb say nothing ofthe vast importance ii
Would be to the entire route from Kingston, including both sides of the
Bay of Q,uinte and the Trent to Peterborough : the immepse quantities
of beautiful timber now destroyed by the axe and fire, would find art
easy conveyance, notonly to the markets of Montreal and Quebpc,btit
lo all thetowns ofthe neighboring state of New York. 1 trtist our Le
gislature, (who with a few insignificant esceptloiis, I beliiFve'to havethe
welfare ofthe country at heartv) laying aside all political rancour^ will
give it their immediate and unbiased attention ; and ere long, 1 hope
to see the jib-booms of a dozen strong brigs, capable of carrying 300
te 400 tons, peeping out ofthe bush on Rice Lake and Otanabee River
and three or four steamers taking a dozen more In tow, half lumber la
den, drawing 8 to 9 feet waterj botind to Q,uebec, thereto complete
their equipment and cargoes for our native shores. Id a word, theo*
pening ofthe Trent would completely develope the now dormant re
sources ofthis delightful district. The settler flees frot)) London td
China, chimei-ical, to compare old settled coutitries with a dense po
pulation, where every fbot of land is highly cultivated^ andi conse
quently, where there is a vast quantity of surplus produce, and -where a
cheap and speedy conveyance is absolutely indispensiblej to a few new
ly settled townships, with a few straggling inhabitants ; or even com''
pare them to Peterborough and its surrounding townships, with apopu-
lation_of about 30,000 inhabitants, to say nothing ofthe well settled
townships bordering on the Rice Lako and Rive^ Trent
< In this the Cpbourg rail road com^ at Ohee intci .nijiice^ afi o{>eniii^
{^eterboro' with the front. Theti is there a line of about 43 Jbiles^
which GQuld be opened for about £10,000^ viz. by a rail rbad fo Mud
Lake from Peterboro'-^a distance of7 miles, and by finishing &e Canal
at Rokeby, which- wojijld at once lay open a large <exteni ofa fine, fast
settling part of the country, which has, wvihin these few- years^ beefi
changed, from, a wilderness to one of themost civilized parte of'Canadii
Xhenext qbslirUction. is at Cameron's Falls, a height of about 2S feet j
pgobably £15,000 would be sufficient ta obviate tbat. Then is there!
i)q ol^ructioB to Balsam Lake, from which, A rail road oMS' miles
wpuld o,pen lalfe Simeoe, at an expense of perhaps £20,000^ thus lay'
ing ogen the ej^tenaive tract of ground round Lake Simeoe, and from

Ul'PEtl CANADA* 160
lliai to Petei-borbUg]^ and Lake Ontario^ at the incbrisideratle sum of
£65»000. The improvement of the Trent is required by the settlers along its
banks, and by those engaged in lumbering. The improvement ofthe
Trent is required notonly to supply the present wants of the country,
hut it will be the meansof Creating for itself an immense business. SucH
has been the case with all the canals in ilSngland — ^and to come nearer
home, such has been the Case wiih the Erie canal, a work' whichhas
been the means of doing more good to the country through which it
runs, and of creating for itself more business than even the persevering
projector of it himself ever contemplated — such unquestionably will be
the Case Withthe Trent — if anyone doubts it, let him look at the shore'^
of the Bay of Quinte. Wherever a steam-boat can approach on either
side ofthe Bay, there we see extensive clearances well stocked, and
with substantial buildings, villages rising in every direction, and twq
towns at least of as much importance to their respective districts, as ahy
toivus or villages in the Province — Belleville and Hallowell. Why is
it so on the Bay of Q,uinte ? Because there is an excellent navigation
nearly up to every man'a door, which enables him, ot what is the same
thing, his merchant to have a quick, cheap and easy communication
withthe bestof Markets, Kingston, Gaiianoqiie, and Montreal. Beit
remembered that the country on each side Ofthe Bay of Quinte is lesS
indebtedto emigration from Great Britain and Ireland than any part
of the Province, it is hardly kn6wn except tb those who are obligfedto
travel-on the Bay, yet I will venture to say, in the neighborhood 'of
teach convenient shipping place, it is as much settled, ahd the inhabi
tants ai-e as industrious ahd prosperous as any' part of the Province*
The Trent, when improved, would allow of shipping places at every
part of its banks ; and it is natural to expect that those advantages
would be seized, and the country about it quickly improved, when fa
cilities to and from market are afforded. Besides, there is one article
ofthe lumber trade, boards and deals for the Ahierican market, which
from the peculiar water privileges ofthe Trent and its tributary streams,
would of .itself add greatly to the business of the Canal. Last year
great quantitifes ofthe above article were shipped for the States from the
Trent aiid Belleville, and the demand would be fully equal to any sup
ply 'the coiintry could afford, and no section ofthe country is better able
to afibrd that supply than the country' about the Trfent*
PORTHOPE
Is situated seven miles above Cahourj^ on the lake'shof^J
22

.17d tlPPEA CANADA.
it is in the township of Hope. There ia a beautiful
stream running through it called Smith's Creek; it runt
between two picturesque hills, rendei'ed more so by tbe
churches and houses being placed among the trees. The
steam-boats touch at the wharf, erected at the termina
tion ofthe creek. It contains 1,000 Inhabitants. There
are some excellent mills in the village, a fine brevy-
house and distillei'y, and an excellerit harbour made by
two piers jutting out into the lake, with the creek running
between thera. The New Castle District returns four
Members to the House pf Assembly. It is a beautiful
District, offering to every class of settler the most ample
oppdVtunities of successful employment. 1 be improve
ment of the Trent is thus ably argued by the Editor of
that respectable paper, the Cobourg Star : —
Advantageously situated on tbe mighty Ontario, opposite the most
commercial part of the Union, and offering a highway by a grand
chain of waters through its interior to the St. Lawrence, the District
of Newcastle will, at no distant period, rank tbe first in point of pros
perity and wealth in Upper Canada. As we fortunately have at last
got a House of Assembly, indisposed to harass the country, and<retard
its internal advancement and happiness by useless agitation, we may
look forward, under its auspices, for the developementof those rich re
sources, which a bountiful Providence has so abundantly lavished on
' this District. The enterprising individuals in the rear ofus, who are
HOW literally land-locked in their forests, and consequently unable to
realize any thing from tbeir produce, or derive the least profit from tbe
valuable lumber with which they are surrounded, have claims upon
the Legislature of no ordinary character. Most of them have spent
their properties in the purchase and clearance of land, in situations
where it was hopeless to locate, without an expectation that the splen
did resources shut up in that section of the country, would be made
available to themselves and the community, through the obvious eban-
nels of communication which lay spread out before them. With this
expectation tliey settled u|)on the shores of those beautiful la^s and
Mvers, which fertilize the interior of this district,, and form a natural
-isfeiin of waters, in many places navigable for ships ofthe line, extend
ing from lake Ontario, through the heart of the Newcastle and Hoioe

HPPEH CANADA. 17l
Districts, almost to lake Huron. His Excellency Sir John Colborne,
during the period of his admini'Stration, was fully sensible of the im
mense natural advantages of which this District in particular was pos
sessed J and from the personal observations which he made in his oc
casional visits to the back country^ foresaw the day at hand, when,
with- a little improveraent, this finely timbered and well watered region
would be within the reach of a seaport, and have ready access to the
iirst. To forward the advancement ofthe Province formed one of the
chief objects o( his concern ; wifh this in view, he gave his attention to
the internal navigation ofthe Newcastle and Home Districts, and coo-
templating a grand measure, ordered the immediate survey of the
whole frora the Bay of Quinte to Lake Huron. The result ofthis sur
vey was laid before the late House of Assembly, but that House being
at the tirae composed of vicious raaterials, through the treachery of ons
or two pretended friends to this District, abandoned a plan commen
surate with the vast importance ofthe undertaking, for the paltry sum
«f £16,000, which sum it determined should be expended in a man
ner best suited to the convenience of two or three interested individuals
in favour with the ruling raajority. The grant of £16009 might, how
ever, be'better than nothing at all, but this even was neutralized through
the factious opposition offered by the House, and as a matter of course
fay the aforesaid friends of the District, to the Lieutenant Governor.
There can be no doubt that the benefit of that half measure will be
soon enjoyed, but the present House must not be satisfied because the
work may be commencing. It ia a duty incumbent onthe Constitu
tional Members of the mew Parliament, to use every exertion towards
the advance of the improvement in the country, and especially that
description which will confer the most general benefit. We view the
opening ofthe Trent, and the back waters of the Newcastle and Home
Districts, as a work of this character ; in the first place, the employ
ment which l;he work will afford, and the requisition almost at the door
«f the farmer for his produce, will be of advantage, inasmuch as it will
promote industry, and serve to tranquilize the country; then tbe en
hanced value which property, in many cases in the hands of needy
settlers, will assume — the infiux of capital, wheii a spirit of improve
ment shall have been properly excited — the progire^s. of other works of
a similar kind, and the consequent increase of trade and demand of
hands, will have effect alt over the Province. When we consider also
the extent ofthe improvement — that it is not a mere local undertaking,
but one, besides opening the back country, it willgive opportunity for
tlis speedy filling up of the whole tract lying between the great worjc

172 ,BPPER CANADA.
and the front, by connecting improvements, it niifst, be admttted thji*
the whole country woUld derive benefit from an improvement of such
primary importance. When the character for enterprise ofthe Can
adas becomes more established, and active measures, beyond the mere
groping our way, are taken to render them a field for prosperous spec
ulations,' the people will not have time nor inclination to quarrel with
their "bread and butter," or pine at home over grievances, existing
only in their own discontented imaginings. It is whilst looking forward
to these prospects that we anticipated the time when the West will not
be inundated by the humbler class of settlers, without the means of
employing them, but as a larger portion of emigrants will be monied
.men, so a readier circulation of capital will be obtained tq support tl]e
labouring population, of which great nutnbers would bedrawnoffta
places vifhere improvements were being carried on. Until the only
road Which the country can present with advantage fpr perhaps centu
ries, we mean the water communication, be rendered navigable, we
cannot makp much greater advances. But in a little time .we hope
effective pieans will be obtained to put the grand resources of wealth,
now locked up in the interior of the cougtry, into operation, that we
ihay shortly behold beautiful fields smiling amidst the wild recesses of
the forest.
THE HOME DISTRICT,
The largest and most important in the Province, is sub
divided into Four Ridings, and the County of Simeoe.
• FOUR RIDINGS OP YOR^.
TowDsliipa. Uncultivated acrea. CuUivated acres.
York, 36,357 13,674
Uxbridge, 5,107 1,660
Georgiana, 8,932 1,218
North GwiUimbury, 7,780 1,834
Caledon, 30,688 4,297
Brock, 23,902 3,187
Markham, 43,107 20,370
East GwiUimbury, 18,533 6,643
Reach, Gf.llS 1,002
Chinguacousy, 47,293 12,217
Pickering, 33,169 10,l7l
Toronto (old survey) 14,465 7,161
Toronto, 21,265 13,032
Scarboro, 22,742 8il09
Whitby, 36,661 14,523
Wbitchurcb, 25*852 10,237
King, 29*984, 5,569
Gpre of Toronto, 18^^55 3,170

Population.

ABsessmeDt.

5,040

£51,555

431

5,697

3^9

4,889

481

5,434

1,414

14,785

1,077

11,100

4,349

60,74ft

1,374

21,510

444

'4,flG2

2,428

32,089

2,642

23;358

687

32,152

4,384

37,750

2,047

32,537

2;808

44,898

2,454

37,154

1,889

20,648

m

9,§63

UPPER CANADA. ' nS|
Albion, 26,289 4,173 1,089 13,484 ^f^
Vaughan, 39,016 11,699 2,985, 37,901
Etobicoke, -' 16,029 6,751 1,344 ,18,734
, COUNTY op SIMCOE. ' ;
Thorah, 9,944 813 337 3,691'

5,757- 404 272 2,066 ;
Mono, 15,253 1,551 675 6,189'
Vespra, 10.643 755 447 5,030
Tecumseth, 22,935 4,474 1,410 13,665
Medonte, 17,151 707 502 5,665
Oro, 32,646 1,689 1,060 10,351
Adjala, 12,449 1,1.34 616 5,005
Iimisfil. 12,034 834 590 4,583
West GwiUimbury, 30,963 5,563 1,305 1^,143' ,
Orillia, 4,207 156 no return, 2,234''
Tiny & Tay, 4,501 603 -509 5,298
Flos, 3,476 125 106 1,082
For the number of Horses, Oxen, &c. »ide Appendix.
'J he city of Toronto, the capital of Upper Canada, has
so rapidly improved since 1 saw it first, on the fourth of
June, 1833, that, judging of the future from the past, itis
scarcely possible to conjecture what advance it may yet
make. It is in latitude 43 ° 39' n., and longitude 79 °
36' w. It is very prettily situated within an excellent
harbour of an elipticalform, comprising an arif of eigbtor
nine square miles, njade by a long peninsula, on which a
large hotel has been erected ; and at its extremity is a
large light hpuse as a direction to the entrance of the
B^y. It is a semi-circular strip of land, of a sandy na
ture, resiembling that between Burlington Bay and L|ike
Ontario, and like it, has some trees of a stunted growth
upon it. The bay is about three miles in diameter and
at the east end ofthe city, a bridge is erected over the ri
ver Don, which empties itself into this Bay. There is a
large wind-piiU erected here. From the old French Fort.
to the River Don, a distance of at least three miies, thfisr
city extends, cpntaining some spacious and handsome ed>
ifi^es. The Pa;rliarnept Houses and the Gov eminent
4yildings are la.i:ge and well built, but by no; means dis-

174 WPPER CAKADA.
tinguished for their elegance. The Legislative Council
Chamber is a splendid room, superbly decorated ; the
royal arms, the throne, the speakers chair, are gorgeouS:
in the extreme. As the room is an ornament to the city
of Toronto, so happily are its members, the protection of
the Province, the bulwark ofthe constitution, its prop,
stay, and security against frantic levellers and scheming
republicans. Long may it exist, jhe offspring of the
Crown, forraing a separate and entirely independent
branch of the legislature, — in its origin and intehtion, cal
culated to form the glorious and legitimate incitement to
virtuous and patriotic action : — standing alike secure
frotn the impulse of sudden and factious movements,
and the controul of hasty popular excitement, as from<he
influence of arbitrary power. Any impartial individual
who could read their splendid defence against the atro-
cloiis calumnies ofthe late discarded and ignorant House
of Assembly, would immediately perceive that the hatred
ofthe latter, could be well accounted for by tbat snarling
envy, whieiKiates the excellence it cannot reach.
The House of Assembly is a fine commodious cham
ber, neatly finished, atid fitted up. The Government
House is an indifferent frame building, but the grounds
around it are tastefully ornamented with a profusion of
beautiful flowering trees-and shrubs. The Hospital is a
large, but heavy erection, but from the zeal and talent of
the medical gentlemen who attend it, of inconceivable ad
vantage tq the country. There is in the hospital a beau
tiful model of the new university which is expected to
be erected near this city ; and a preparation of singular
value in its' museum, more curious even than that living
wonder, the Siamese Twins,^two children with distinct
heads and trunks, united together in the lower extremity.
The Upper Canada College is a plain, but spaciou/j

«PPEH CASADA. 17S
building, or rather series of buildings, with fine gravelled
walks and neat shrubberies in front. This admirable in
stitution stands a proud monument of the paternal affec
tion which Sir John Colborne felt for the Province ; a-
midst every discouragement he persevered until he suc
ceeded fully In establishing it, and it will doubtless long
remain an honor to the Province, and the means of diffu
sing the highest branches of knowledge to hundreds of
her sons. There are several teachers belonging to it,
distinguished for their attainments, and at the annual ex
aminations several ofthe scholars by their merit and ta
lent have reflected high honor on the establishment.—
Thereare many benevolent and patriotic institutions in
this city, amongst which one is particularly deserving of
honorable mention, — the Society for relieving emigrants
coraing from Great Britain totally destitute, and procur
ing iramediate employment for them. Several societies
of a similar descriptioii have been formed in different
partsof the Province, and I am happy that the District
of Gore, behindhand in no good word or worn, bas esta
blished a like institution. There are many beautiful
stores in Toronto ,' the hardware store of Messrs. Ridout
& Co.— the glass and china store of Shuter 8t Co., and
lately a superb druggist's establishment by Mr. Becket,
equal to any thing on the continent of America, has beei^
opened. From the spirit and enterprize of the inhabitants of To
ronto, there is every reason to believe that a rail road
communication will be forraed between the city and Lake
Huron, via. Lake Simeoe ; the ground is now being sur
veyed for the purpose,
TORONTO AND LAKE HURON RAIL ROAIK
The Company chartered last winter, to construct this Rail Bopd,^**^
making vigorous exertions to comiiience the work. . :, •

l^g HIPPER CAKAtJi.
Ata meeting lately held in this City, £1500 was subscribed bV 2^
gentlemen, which is to be paid down to defray the expenses of surveysi
Itwas'Resolvedby said meeting, that a person shonld go immediately
to the United States, to employ one of the most skilful and experien*
ced Engineers that could be found, to come and explore the country
between the City of Toronto and Lake Huron, in order to determine
the best route, and tbe most advantageous place for it to terminate.
lam surprised thatthe Company could- not find a man possessing
talents, knowledge and experience enough in thisProvince to lay out
a Rail Road, and show where it should terminate, that would prove
th'e ihost profitable. I thought that I would see if I could lay out the
plan, anddetermine the best route for said' Rail Road torUii, and where
it>Bhould terminatB. I have done so, and' find that the best way, for
the interests of all that may be -therein concerned, and to secure the
trade from the United States that will pass this way from New York
to Michigan, and the western parts of Upper Canada and the United
States. First, and main projection, is to run m nearly a north western di
rection frorn the city of Toronto, and isto terminate at the month of
Shawgeneriver, which empties into Lake Huron, about 60 miles north
of Goderich. There is an island in front of the river,- which will foym
an exce Ifent break-water, and will assist in forming a good harbour. — •
The distance ,^n the' line from this city to Lake Huroh^ will be one
hundred'and- twenty miles. It lies in a direct Une from Oswego to the
far distant west,, and nearly so with ther head of Sagana Bay ; and a
rail road from the bead of this Bay, about 60 miles in length, will
gtrike the centre of Michigan Lake. The lands at the head.of Sagana
Bay, have been settling fbr many years past, and it is very probabf^
for that state, that it will become the seat of govethmetit. The coutitty
onboth side^<3lf Michigan Lake, is'rapidly -ifltrea-sing in population*,
&c., and the country on the south side of lake Superior, will,, in a few
'years be settled,'sothat faythis line of communication, the principal
part of the trade, &c., of that vast country will flow down this way to
Montreal ahd'New-'^orlt; The object of this rail road.witl.be to unite
the interests and'effortsofthe inhabitahts of 'Lake Ohtario, bymsikihg
a sJiiJrt^ratl road from the head ofthe Lake, to the main, raiil Vfiad- in
tbe township of Caledon, which will be abou't-fortV! miles' long, Thp
distances from the lake, and from this city to the junction in Caledon,
will be ecpaal." Another branch can be n&defrdm Galedon to Penet-
seSgHShine^fljaking'the whole distance fr'Oiii this cityiidV'thieb^ad'of the
lake, by Caledon, oiJHif lOG rtiilea fo PenfetaWgaslifee. Alstf ntibthet

bppEit CANAbA; 'ttf
bcAntil may be made lO the town of Goderich, to unite with the maitt
rail road. It vi>ill be about forty miles in lengthi
The maiu rail road will pass through a beautiful and fertile country*
V»hich lies between Lakes Ontario, MriS, and Huron, the greater part
of which is as yet a complete wilderness.
The advantage ofthis great rail road running through sUch an ex
tensive country will be very great. It will be the means of inducing
timigrants to settle between this city and Lake Huron-; and the coun
try Will be enriched by this much wanted and important enterprize^
Toronto, July 23, 18-36. JOHN SMiTH.
P. S.-^Since I completed the above, I am creditably informed there
is a good harbour at present at the mouth of the river Shawgene ;— *
there is a ledge of rocks about six feet high above the water, running
frora the shore around the mouth of the river, in the form of a semi-*
eiicle, and deep water inside. J- S.
ENGINEER'S REPORT.
T. W. Higbamt the Engineer, has reported that having made a re*
Connoissance ofthe line of i-oad from Toronto to Lake Huron, he finds
the route quite as favorable as he had been led to expect, that froo*
Toronto to the OakRidgesj a distance of from 25 to 30 miles, the in
clination ofthe road will be from 20 to 25 feet> through the Oak Ridg^
fes> a distance of from 7 to 10 miles, the inclination will varyfi-om 20 to
40 feet per mile, that the certain length of the road will be from'?5 to
90 miles, according to the point on Lake Huron, where it may be found
most desirable to terminate the Rail Road, and thatthe entire expense
of every description, excepting only the purchase ofthe City property
required will not exceed ten thousand dollars per hiilet
Osgoode Hall is a very handsome brick building, con
taining excellent accommodation for the students in lawj
and for tbe barristers who come from the country to To-
rtxntdf' during term. There is a council rooni or convo
cation chamber, and an admirable library. The Upper
Canada Bank is' a flne stone edi&eej ethd the Catiadst
Company have a new house for transacting their business*
There is an excellent Market-hoflse, surrounded with sub
stantial buildings^ the Mechanics' institute hold theif meet
ings in one df those forming the market square — -the mu
nicipal authorities meet in another — a commercieii^eading'
23

'178 tPFER CANAUX.
room is at one corner, where the English; I rlsh,^ Scotch,
and Colonial papers, Magazines, Reviews, #'e. are takei*
in, and to which strangers can readily obtain access
through the courtesy of any ofthe subscribers. The mark
ets are most excellently supplied witb meat, fish, poultry,
eggs, vegetables, butter and fruit. The Episcopal Church
is a heavy, targe, and substantial building, sufficiently ca
pacious for the accommodation of 4,0C0 persons, Itis
very chastely and elegantly finished, in the interior. The
Catholic Church is a large and handsome build'mg, near
the Don bridge ; it is insufficient for tbe accommodation
6f the numerous Catholics in this city and its vieinitv. ,
The Presbyterian Church is a brick building, and pos
sesses a large and most respectable congregation ,* — the
Methodists have a also a very spacious brick chapel in this
city ;— the colored inhabitants of Toronto have also an
,^frican church which is well attended — it is very gratify
ing to bear testimony to the good conduct of ;the negroes
residing in this city — they have most of; fhem escaped
from Slavery, they are well protected and kindly used,
and appear to evince a sense of gratittide at their treat
ment, aind show that they duly appreciate the inestimable
blessing of freedom : — the streets are wide and well laid
out, and owing to the indefatigable exertions of George
Gurnett, Esq., are now well drained, alike enhancing the
health and comfort of the- inhabitants : — there.are m.any
excellent taverns, some ofthe first rate character. Four
newspaper's of unquestionable talent are printed in this
city— the Cornier, Albion, Patriot, and Christian Guardi
an. Immediately adjoining Osgoode Hall is a splendid
avenue of great length and remarkable beauty, intended
as the enjtrance to the King's College. A firie hawthoru
hedge, a great rarity in this Province, skirts the bounds ;
between i* and the spacious gravel walk, is a deep shrul»-

¦^" wppcn €A>rADA. !7? t
bt^ry, on both sides, planted with the choicest trees, the
gentle wai'ing acacia, the graceful horse-chesnut, the
flowering catalpa, the variegated locust, the dark green
balsam, and the elegant typress. The private houses of
some ofthe principal inhabitants of Toronto are large
and lofty, and display great taste. There is a constant
intercourse kept up with ail parts ofthe Province and the
States, during the summer months, by steam boats, and"
it is a very lively city, at the sitting of the Provincial
Parliaraent, in the winter, if the sleighing is good. The
literati of Toronto have established an admirable Literary
Society presided over by the Attorney General, whose;
varied accomplishments and amenity of manners render
bim an ©rnament to society, and specially patronized by
the present Lt Governor, SirF. B. Head — himself a dis
tinguished contributor to the literature of the day. There
is a plan now in contemplation and likely to be carried
into effect, to light up the city with gas. The population
ofthe city of Toronto amounts to 10,000 persons. There
are many large manufactories at Toronto, specified with
great accuracy in the Toronto and Home District Calen
dar, amongst them may be mentioned a large foundry,
and a coach builder's.. The stores are very numerous, —
some of the merchants in immediate connection M'ith
Sheffield, Birmingham, and the potteries in Ej§Iand.
» The steam boat Great Britain is ' considered the most
splendid on the lake ,¦ it is of great dimensions, and con
tains as many conveniences as a fashionable hdtel. The
cabins are long and broad, and furnisijml in the most
sumptuous manner ; that appropriated to the use of the-
ladies has sofas, mirrors, and every other luxury. It runs
between Prescott and Niagara, toiiching'at the intermedi
ate ports. Its size prevents its^jassage through the canal
ijsbicj^cpnuects the Ijake with Burlington Bay ; it^ cannot

180 UPPER CANADA.
Vierefore stop at Harailton, but the Cobourg, the St.
George, the Oakville, the Britannia, the Traveller, and
other steamers pass freely through, the Canal to Hamil
ton. During the season, there is intercourse with HamiU
¦ton from Toronto, twice daily. The lake called Bur-
lipgton Bay is always frozen up in winter ; during the
last winter the ice vt^as three feet five inches in thickness ;
but the following account of the, difficulty which fhe Tra-,
veller steam boat met with in thelarge lake, in the month
of March 1836, is without a parallel.
the 'Traveller,' Captain Sutherland, arrived here on Wednesday
from Niagara, aAer experiencing no ordinary difficulties. On leaving
Niagara on Monday, she encountered 6uch,a solid body of drift ice
and snow, as rendered it irapossible to proceed. On Wednesday she
fortunately got an opening in this mass ; but immediately after, and
when all obstruction was thought to be overcome, it was found that
what appeared the calm surface of the water was a solid body of ice,
ftbouttwo inches thick, through which, forabout filleen miles, the boat
had to force her way. When about the middle of the lake it was con-
eidered necessary to examine the vessel, to ascertain whether she was,
•ustaining any damage. During this stop, our informant, witli otherej
of the passengers, and the captain, left the boat and went upon the ice.
The merchants of Toro^o last year ^addressed the Bri
tish Government, praying them to make a treaty with
the United 'St^i^es, with a view to 'get goods by New-
York free of duty.
Judge Tul^illfiM'^ifiinent member pf Congress, for the.
County of J^sw^J, spoke of the Address of the Mercfa^
ants of Hgfrgntoj^ thj^ritish Govern mentj iu the Hoiisf^
of RepresentafiVis at Washington, in June of this year, iqj
the following manner :
Sir— The. ohtjects embraced in this! addi^s are of great importance^
to Illis Government, as vrell as to the Province of Canada— and there
can be no doubt, therefore, that the existing obstacles to the commerce
#iUjSpon be removed, since it ia isb decidedly far the interest of both
c««l»Ft«i»^ wcomplish diat object: In thts United States, public at-

WPPER CANADA. 181
tention has not yet been directed to this important subject. But little
is known of this Province, and its natural advantages are not under
stood. Sir, the peninsula of Upper Canada, in location, in fertility of
£oiI, and salubrity of climate, is not surpassed by any portion of the
United States. It is true that this Province is now comparatively a
wilderness, having a very spare population ; but still the spirit of en
terprise, as exhibited in works of internal improvements,, would do
honor to an older and wealthier country. The Canadians have wisely
adopted the plan of uniting and using, wherever practicable, the great
water-courses of the country. Their effort has been to improve upon
the works of naturp, and not vainly attempt to outdo them. By means
ofthe Rideau canal, a steamboat navigation has already beenopened to
Lake Ontario and Montreal, and the improvements now in progress
on the St. Lawrence will open another communication between the;
same points for steamboats of the largest class, thus making a good ship
navigation from Lake Ontario to the ocean. The Welland Canal,
which will soon be enlarged and made permanent, now afibrds a sloop
navigation between lake Erie and lake Ontario. A rail road is now
being constructed between Hamilton, on lake Ontario, and Port Dover
on lake Erie. And the day is not far distant when lakes Huron and
Ontario will be united by a ship canal. Sir, it requires but a mere
glance at the map of Upper Canada to convince any one that, when
these improvements shall have been completed, when the vast resour
ces ofthat-Frovince shall have been developed, there will bean exten
sive commerce carried on upon lake Ontario, a portion of which will
find its way ,down the St. Lawrence to Montreal ; ahd should Og
densburgh be connected with Vermont and New Hampshire by means
of rail roads, a portion will take that direction to Boston, while all*
destined to Nevi York must pass through the Oswego and Erie canals
to the Hudson. ?¦ ;r?i
The road from Toronto, along Yonge Street, , to Lake
Simeoe, passes through a fine and well cleared country :
thefirst two railes are excellerit, being Macadamized —
the rest tolerable. '
THORNHILL.
Twelve miles from Toronto, on this road, is the bean-
" tiful village of Thornhill, surrounded by excellent farms
in the finest cultivation. The population is nearly 300 ;
tbere is a neat church, good tavern, several stores, &G.y

182 KPFER CANADA;
and surrounded by good roads. Six miles farther is
New Market, delightfully located, surrounded with res
pectable settlers, and every accommodation for mills,
stores, &c.^ Four miles beyond is Holland Landing on
Lake Simeoe, from whence round the lake to Barrieis 28
miles : frorn Barrieto Coldwater 12^ to Oro, 13 to Oril
lia, and 14 more to Coldwater, a most beautiful tour
through the townships skirting the lake.
A little above Montgomery's tavern tbe road branches
off to tbe township of Markhaoa; aud the village of Rees-
orville, which is distant about twenty miles from '1 oron-
to. It contains tvvo or three taverns, some stores, good
private houses, and is surrounded by fine farms, well wa
tered by a sthall, but meandering river, called the Rouge,
which falls into Lake Ontario, in the township of Pick
ering. STOFFERS VILLE.
Eight miles beyond Markham is the beautiful village
of Stoufville: the country to it and around it, interesting
in the extreme and in the finest state of cultivation. The
population of Stoufville is about 300.
It is a fact worthy of mention that- there are streams
taking their rise between twenty and thirty miles from
Toronto, falling into lake Huron, and then after pursu
ing their courses several hundred miles through ?'Lake St.
Clair — ihe rivers St. Clair -and Detroit — Lake Erie —
down the Falls of iSiagara, pass in front of the city of
Toronto agaiti. - . » ;
y'J'heroad from Reesorville to Toronto, by Scarbgro'
is through a dense fptest for sonie miles — i"n the spring
and fall, it is scarcely passable, but iji progress of settle
ment — there are several villages along this route. A few '
wiles from Montgomery's tavern, on Yonge-street,, the
Oak Ridges. commence, a very elevated tract ofiau^-for

tJI*PEft CANAtrjt. I8S
«om«r rntles, extending a considerable distance, but sandy,
the soil is inoifferent, but tbe roads good. Beyond this,
towards lake Siaicoe, the country is rich and fertile.
In the township ol Vaughan on the left of Yonge Street
the country, is vvell settled, churches, chapels, schools^
raills, taverns, extensive farms, large orchards,*- good
houses, and fair roads throughout. In the next township.
King, the portion contiguous to Yonge St., is well settled
— the soil excellent, and tbe timber of Majesfie growth.
There is in it a pretty and increasing village called Kiflg-
The next townshi|S is Whitchurch, and it is adinirably
cleared, welt settled, and doing much business: it possess
es some excellent houses, extensive farras, wdl planted
orchards, neat gardens, large saw-mills, grist-millSj with
several manufactories. Tbe village of Newmarket in this
township is well watered, and bears the character trff a
highly cultivated and productive country. About five
miles from Newraarket, in the township of East Gwil-
limbury, is a large and well built village- called Hope: —
the road from Newmarket to it is exceediijgly tortuous,
and the village, which lies in a complete hollow, at the
termination of a very steep hill, is seen quite suddenly,
and imparts a most picturesque and pleasing appearance^
to the scene. Tt is celebrated from some motley sect hav
ing fixed themselves in it, headed by a David Wilson, ai
sort of Mohammed —who, although possessing an exten
sive harem is not quite so jealous of its houris, as his il
lustrious predecessor in concupiscence, *• holding all
things in common." • It is not a little singular that tha^,
demi-semi-any-thing-arian, VV. L. Mackenzie, shoiild dis«
cover in this ranting, ravaging, sect every thing in ac-
Igardance with his views of religion^nd morality. What
with.the influence of music, and the sti|l softer attractions
-^the. founder of this new sect has managed to induce

184 tjpfEk cai^aOA.
many farniers to dispose oftheir farms, to take ail ai^m
lot in this new village of Priapus. Alas ! how melaocho^
Iy to contemplate a man forming a religion on the wreck
of morality, and increasing the number of his votaries
by holding out to them the unrestraiiJed indulgence of
their libidinous appetites.
East and North GwiUimbury is well settled, and the
country round lake Simeoe, particularly the delightful
township of Georgina, is rapidly improving. Whitchurch
is a beautiful township, standing on a commanding, ele-*
Tated piece of table land, and abounding in fine farms,
with good houses and orchards. Bogart's mills are very
extensive, turned by a copious stream-^several houses are
built in the vicinity. The townships of Brock and Ux
bridge contain some fine tracts of timber land, and several
extensively cleared farms. 7 he new settled township of
Tecumseth abounds in good land and offers fine opportu
nities for hard working and industrious settlers to locate
theraselves with advantage, land being cheap, good and
abundant — ^there is a church and school-house in this
township. ,
ORO,
Since 1832, has been generally taken up, and much set
tled — it is well watered by nearly fifty streams, running
into the lake, with abundance of power for machineryi
A grist and saw-mill has been erected ; the general cha
racter of the settlers are Highland and Lowland Scotch.
The Highland settlement partakes of the native character
of the Highlands, a beautiful undulating country of lofty
bills and dale — the timber various but of flne growth ;
there are roads open to the Lake and Narrows — distance
from Toronto, 37 miles to fhe landing-^ — bounded by
Vespra, Medonte and Orilla. Many officers are settled
on the lake shore ; the land is good and rapidly increeSsing

WPPER CANADAi 1^
m vdiue. From the narrows to Cdldwatef settlements
are every where forming. The country a:bout Petietan^
guishine oil lake Huron, is remarkably healthy, the win
ter roads to it, crossing lake Simeoe^ excellent. In the
suinnler months it is delightful to persoris wht) arfe pleased
and entertained by the wild grandeur and simplicity of
nature. The pure and transpai'ent waters of the beauti
ful bay, aind the verdant foliage ofvthe vast woOds which
adorti its sloping shores, are objects of great beatify : the
Q\ilitary establishraent^ and the new village, embowered
ivith noble woods on the east side of the harbOur, form st
a Very picturest|tie scene : the land is iiot good, from the
quantity of stones, and the nature ofthe soil being sandyi
The land in the townships Of Flos and Medonte is exceS-*
lent. Vespra is settling and contains some ehoiceland— *
the whole of the beautiful cduritry round lake SinScOe ii
Well worthy of inspection.
Another route frora Toronto is through the Pind
VV'oods to Farr's Mills, and thence along Duiidas street td
Etobicoke, where a rOad tuf-ning to the right extends
through the Gore of Toronto to the tdwnships of Albion,
Adjalei, and Tecumseth, the rOad skirting on the western
fends of the townships of Vaughan and King. Within
the last tvvO years, the improvetnents oil this route are
Surprising, the country scarcely retaining one featiire of
its former appearance : the roads are excellent— -the pine
woods well cleared in some parts, and tastefully thitined
but in others,— nevi?^ houses of superior ehal-aefer ttftd
taste built, and new taverns erected. At Etobicoke, a
road branches Off to Nottawasaygo, by Mono Mills,
through, a beautiiful country, bat only at present partially
cleared.-. Land, of the finest quality and cheap, 7 be
©ore of Toronto contains sarae large farms, and is iri
general iine land; -,the rivet Humber and ei fe*v ' iaj*§«'
24

186 VPPZR CASAOA.
creeks pass through it on their way to the lake. The
township of Albion contains very excellent land, the
greater part finely timbered : ntimerous streams, with
good falls intersecting ; the township is rapidly settling
and very prosperous. Thereare several large farms in
rapid cultivation, also saw-mills and grist-mills for the
accommodation of the settlers.
"Mackenzie, the most designing, the most tortuous, and
the most leprous enemy of British institutions, tbat the
fiends of disaffection and sedition ever infiicted on Upper
Canada" bas been indignantly hurled from that station
which he so long filled to his own shame and the dis-
of bis, supporters." This man spoke thus of the setders
in the fine township of Albion. "One half ofthe settlers
in Albion are English, and one half Irish ; there is not a
more spirited township, for its size, I believe, on the con
tinent of North America. They love their native land j
they pray for its prosperity, and tbat the downfall of its
enemies and theirs may be hastened." I feel happy alsa
to add my testimony to their merits. Durii^ the last e-
lection, tbey almost to a man voted against this shallow
and unceasing disturber ofthe public peace ; following
the example of the citizens of Toronto, who, disgusted
with his antics and tyranny when mayor of that city,
kicked him out of the council at the following election i
the brave boys of Albion in iraitation of tbat exam
ple, contributed to the downfall of their enemy, and the
enemy of the Province, by depriving him of a seat in the
House of Assembly.
There is also another road from Toronta, immediately
skirting the lake, through the Credit Woods ; the, ¦-, if|^
is excellent, the farms well cultivated, the view of the ^ke
delightful, and itis the nearest route, by several miles^ta
Hamiltpn and the surrounding country,

BPPER CAMADA. 187
Along the whole line of road from Toronto to Nelson
by Dundas street the country is well settled and exten
sively cleared: the road passes through the townships of
Toronto, Trafalgar and Nelson, — there are many large
mills and factories turned by the powerful streams which
pass through these townships on their route to the Lake.
On the Credit, a village has been built in a most pleasing
situation, called Springfield, and but a few miles from it
another called Streetsville, both containing many gootf
bouses, taverns, stores, and surrounded by large farms
well cleared, aud excellently cultivated. At the mouth of
the Credit a harbour has been formed at Which the steam
boats touch, passing to and from the head of the lake-
Many village lots haVe been sold, some buildings erected
and being the nearest port, to Streetsville, Springfield,
and the contiguous country, will probably become a place
of consequence. From the Cred it to Streetsville is 1 1
miles — thence 11 to Chinguacousy, 8 farther to Sttinley's
Mills, and then 11 to Albion, a delightful ride, through
a fine agricultural district, and well worthy the observa
tion of persons intending. to settle in the country.
At the back of Dundas Street, are the townships of Es-
quesing, Chinguacousy, Erin, Caledon, and others but
very partially settled, stretching towards Lake Huron.— r-
Esquesing has some large farms on it, well cleared,-—
anti churches, schools and a post-office : — the land is
generally fine, but not well watered. Two villages have
been recently laid out in this township, and from its nu
merous settlers, they are likely to prove very useful. Land
is still to be obtained cheap. It is a desirable location.
Chinguacousy is almost a continued settlement— the
lands are rather swampy, but the soil excellent. Caledon
stands much more elevated, in sorae parts mountainous,
eu^d supposed to abound in coal. In this township are

18§ BPPER CAJfADA.
the fine fells of the River Credit, in the midst ofa niost
romantic and lovely woodland country ; there is a superb
and extensive view from one of the hills near the falls of
the Credit, from which, lake Ontario, and the rich valley
between it, raay be seen ; — there are also some beautiful
natural meadows in this neighborhood. There are m'any
$mall and lovely lakes in this township, surrounded by
trees of the finest growth and beautiful varieties, in one,
palled the Green lake, a fish of exquisite flavor is caught^
peculiar to that lake. Caledon is extremely healthy and
a most desirable location for ^n industrious person with
small means.
In Erin there are some extensive clearings, the soil
is good, principally sandy loam, the timber is very supe-,
rior, but the roads are bad. .
Thetownship of Whitby is well settled, and possesses
a goqd harbour, on the lake, called Windsor, the laqd is,
of fine quality, and there are some beautiful farm^, dispers
ed thrqugboiit the township, particularly on the shore of
the lake..
Tbe township x)f Dariington is extensively settled, the
land heavily timbered, but of first quality ; there are twQ
villages in this township, one likely to be a large place^.
JBowmaiisville-T-there are several churches and scfaoolf in
this township. The township in the rear is Cartwright :
a river running from the Sturgeon lake, in the Newcastle
District, is navigable to the centre of it.
The township of Scarborough contains some fine land,
and some very broken tracts — it is generally very high
and hilly, and fronts the lake.
The township of Pickering is well setriing, and con
tains sorae fine land, and well watered- Mr. Fothergili
\ias an extensive and most valuable museum of natural
^ji^Qsities, at hisjpeaidence, ia this township, whicb be km

BPfER CANADA. 180
collected vvith great industry, and the most refined tasfe,
He is a person Of superior acquirements, and ardently de
voted to the pursuits of natural philosophy. This town
ship fronts on lake Ontario, and has the fine township of
Uxbridge in the rear. A new village has been laid out,
and is in course of forming, named Brougham, in com
pliment tq the learned and illustrious individual of thai
name, Mar,MUR — Beautifully wateredby fine branches ofthe Nottawaysaga
river, along the second branch of that river some excellent land to the
north of it— rto the south of it, the land is thrown into wave like ridges
apparently the work of an earthquake, and the summit ofthe mountain
north ofthe same branch, has evident marks of its being a volcanoe at
a period not very remote, several craters are still to be seen, the prin
cipal one a pond of dead water strongly impregnated with sulphur. On
lot number 23, in the same line, is a ridge of lime and free stone, which
at a distance, appears like the remains of demolished fortifications.
Where the shock split the rocks and removed the sides to some dist-i
ance, it looks like subterranean vaults, and several of the fissures are
exceedingly dangerous— most of the sand stones are slightly vitrified ;
from this ridge a fissure of about 3 rods wide continues towards the
west, until it is lost in a swamp in the adjoining township — it has all
the appearance ofthe trough ofa river, and a'ong' it are several round
cavities, from ten to twenty rods wide, which are evidently points at
which the electric fluid escaped to the clouds, as the earth thrown out
ofthe cavities form a brim considerably- higher than the surrounding
land. Inimense beds of marie are found throughout'the whole of this,
^ndthe adjoining tc^wqship of Melancthon, which also contains large
quantities of excellent land, occasionally very hilly, the timber of the
finest growth, and abundantly supplied with streams of living water.
Amarant-h — Well watered, some portions finely timbered, and
v'orth citltivation — large swamps and many extensive beaver meadows.
Mono — Beautiful land-r-maple, birch, beech, elm and basswood —
very 'extensive beaver dams — occasional swamps of fir, cedar, and
hemlock — some beautiful streams — land undulating — fine valleys —
cherry, butternut, and whitewood — many good sites for mills— 1st and
3nd concessions excellent land— watered by a branch ofthe Nottaway-i
saga river, in rapid progress of settleraeiit.
. aiEiiuS-r-There fire spme admirable tracts pf land, and between H

190 trPPER CANADA.
and Sunnidale, there runs a most lovely branch of the Nottawaysaga
river, clear, deep and rapid. -
Tecumseth — Maple, elm, basswood and alder, interspersed with
occasional cedar, fir and hemlock — well watered^some swamps —
general character ofthe land excellent— towards Luther very 'swampy —
XiUther so much so as to oppose its successful survey.
Collingwood — Some lofty mountains, fine strearas, and good tim-
}»er — there is a deficiency of pine-^land cheap and of tine quality, but
yet very partially settled .
St. Vincent— 'Juike Collingwood, abounds in fine streams, lofty
mountains, excellent timber, rich valleys, but is also without pine—
f^ere are at present but few settlers.

THE NIAGARA DISTRICT,
Independently of its being the longest settled in the Province, and
containing some beautiful land, is peculiarly and admirably situated,
iying between the two lakes, Erie and Ontario; bounded by the Ni
agara river, by whieh it is separated from the United States ; having
the Welland Canal passing through it, connecting the navigation ofthe
two fakes togettier ; and a Rail Road, now in progress from Chippawa
to Queenston, forming also a land communication between the lakes.
COUNTY OF LINCOLN.
TowTsKipr. Cultivated acres. Uncultirated acrea. Assessment, Population.
Town of Niagara, 670 493 £43,900 2,116
Niagara, township, 9,459 11,656 33,378 2,067
TboffM, 9,156 12i863 31,335 1,985
GeimslH', 9,337 16,618 29,012 907
Clittton, 10,167 13,742 39,406 1,779
Bertie, 11,035 21,429 34,913 2,163
Stamford. 10,039 11,531 39,358 2,464
GaiBsborottgh, 6,851 12,7^ 20,516 1,543
LoBtb, 6,160 9,107 22,330 1,227
Pelham, 6,970 16,547 22,512 1,459
Crowland, 5,485 10,026 14,269 935
Willoughby, 4,318 9,117 12,846 833
Homberston, 4,422 14,017 M5,239 1,231
Wainfleel, 4,083 16,823 13,254 892
Canborough, 2,432 12,947 9,231 504
Caistor, 1,567 «6,786 5,820 446
Grantham, ' 9^851 12,-302 42,333 3,297

#

rpfER
COUNTY OP

CANADA. tfALDIMAMlJ.

l-i-

¦ 19

Mafcfimand,

1,307^

11,417

8y661 ..

693

Rainham,

2,763

9,766

11,622

652

Walpole,

' 2,666

11,145

9,905

683

Dunn, '

367

3,096

1,544

201

Cayuga,

7,529

460

3,947

296

Moulton,

1,138

4,542

6,365

426

Horses, 5,721— Four year old Oxen, 4,316— Milch Cows, 10^389—
Horned Cattle, fiom two to four years old, 3,794. ;
The village of Grimsby, in the township of that name,,
is delightfully situated under the brow ofa lofty mountain,
beautifully wooded to its summit— the 40 mile creek runs
through it, turning several mills, and falls into the lake
immediately below it, where a harbour has been formed
at its mouth. There are tvvo churches in the village,:
several pretty residences, some large fine orchards, exten- :
sive and well cleared farms surrounding it, good stores,
and two taverns. A few miles farther towards ISiagara,
is another village, called Beamsville, also containing
stores and taverns. A portion of the tovfnship is swampy,
but the land generally good — soil clay and yellow loam.
The 20 mile creek, which falls into the lake, in the. town
ship of Louth, waters the back part of the townsbip, and
supplies several mills. The township of Louth has several
mills turned by the 20 mile creek — ^it is tolerably settled,
and contains some fine land and good tiraber: there are
salt-works near the junction of the roads which pass over
the Short Hills to the Falls; The townsbip of Grantham
is better settled than any in the District, and contains
abundance of excellent land, well watered, with the Wel
land canal running through it. There are many mills
and manufactories in it.
ST. CATHARINES.
St. Catharines has always flourished — its rapid growth is a proof of
Ihis; but the excitement which has prevailed ip regard to the pur
chase and sale of village lotir, exhibit the prosperity ofthe place in »

i&2 BPPER (SAi^AtJA:
new and importaiitlight. Within a shoit time, a number of lots haVi
changed hands at prices which some time ago, would have, been c6>t>
sidered utterly chimerical. In sorae instances, we believe, $60 per
foot in front, hayje been paid for drdinary village lots With no hoijses oti
them. Among other evidences of improvement there are now twd
large mills iu progress df erection — a number of new dwelling , houses
and stares, are building — a rail road between this place and Niagara
is in contemplation — ^and, in shortj a spirit of enterprise is manifesting
itself in evety department of business, that places Sti Catharines iti
the front rank of improving places in the Province.
It is situated not only well for business, being oti the
Welland canal, but is surrounded witb fine land, the soil
black and yellow loam, and presents a most pleasing va
riety of gentle hill and dale. The population of Saint
Catherines is abotit 700 persons : — there are three chut^fch-
feSj several taverns, and a school. The Welland canal
empties itself into lake Ontario, about three miles from Stj
Catherines, at Port Dalhousie.
The pretty new village of St. Davids, in this tOwnshi{J^
four railes from Queenston, is situated in raost a delight
ful spot, embracing a great variety of picturesque and ro
mantic scenery, being on a small Stream called the 4 mile
Greekj from the undulaititig nature of the land — the extent
of richly cultivated farms — the appearance of the peach
and apple .orchards — the numerous neat eOttages, aind the
well selected sites for machinery. It was the residence of
Sir Peregrine Maitland, a fonner Governor of the Fr&j
vince. The Town of Nia^atra, at Fort George, in the township
of NiEtgara, is finely situated on the shore df the lake, at
the mouth ofthe Niagara river, ancj opposite Youngstofvni
and is generally a scene of great bustle And gaiety. It
bas three cburcbes, seyeral taverns, large wbarvesj, a spa
cious dry dock and harbour, andi-sbme handsome eJfices
ttrouodk. The population is upwartk of 2,000. Most

UtiPER CANADA. ^ 19^
fef the steaut boats running on Lake Ontario stop at Nia
gara ; this yearj some have run to Queenston and Lewis-
town. 'Ihe Transit, a beautiful boat performs the voy- ,
age between it and Toronto daily.
The township of Stamford is a beatitifui township,-3
its soil atid timber are excellent,- it i,s vvell watered: ii
bounded by the Niagara River and the Chippawa Creekj
and contains 3.50 houses, 4 villages, iB chtirches, 10 schools^
iSC taverns, 6 mills arid manufactories. There are many
excellent siibstantial buildings in this township— some of
them, hahdsome : the roads also are very tolerable round
this neighbOtirhood. A rail road is, iri progress froni
Chippawa to Queenston, connecting the St. Lawrence at
Qiieertstonj with.the Chippawa River, head of the Well
and Canal and lake Erie ; and it is also in serious con
templation to carry a chain bridge across the St. Law
rence, below the falls of Niagara. The great wonder of
this townshipj and the world, are the celebrated fdllsj
where the mighty mass of the concentrated waters of lakes
Erie, St. Clair, Huron, Michigan, and Superior, rush
down a precipice of 1B8 feet into a river three quarters
ofa mile irt width, the estimated quantity of water pass
ing over it in a rainute being 113,510,000 gallonsi Thd
descrijjtion of these falls have been so ofteri given thatii
would be presumptuous to attempt a laboured descriptiori
of them^ suffice irtOsay, that the most brilliant itriagina-
tion can form no idea of the grandeur of the scene. Thd
following de^pription by a gentleman who reeeritly tisiti^
ed them is in complete consonance with ray impressions I'"
I'l stood by Niagara. The grandest image of Power
that nature has produced was before me. Of Power, 1
say, for with that are associated etll my ideas of tbe sub»f
lirnity of Niagara. It is the volutne of waters that it poursf
imd nut the height froin which they fall — it is the ace'Of
2d

i94 tfFEtt CANAfHA.
niulation of the ttiigbty mass, and not the positicmla
which accident has placed it^ that strikes and over-<
, whelms you— 'it is the fact of whole oceans being brought
before the eye at one glance, and not the circumstance of
their changing their level, tbat gives its majestic cbaractei*
to tbis stiipendous scene, h is to tbe image of Almighty
Power —it is to the type of Him who holdeth the waters
in tbe hollow of his hand, tbat tbe soul bows in humility
orliftsitself in sublimated awe. Here is the spot of all
others upon the broad earth — ^and I bave travelled it
widely— where the nothingness of human pride comes
home upon the heart : where its hopes and its struggles-
its aspirations after good and its conflicts against evil— >
itsdreams of distinction and its repinings at obscurity-
its hard wrestlings with the doom to which it is fated, sink
into their native insignificance, when compared with the
operations of the immortal Mind that is for ever develop
ing itself around us."
The appearance ofthe falls, irt tbe winter months'^ i*
singularly striking ; embodied icicles like rocks, pendent
irom the highest overhanging brink, the large mass of
wafers falling into a kind of grotto, created by accumu-
Iatit»KofImmense icicle* fi-om the foam ofthe waterfall^
wid partly covered with snow: — the magnitude of the
stream, the height of the fall, the tremendous rogr, and
splendid diffusion of the spray, renders it a very interest
ing scene.
The following extracts from the Album kept at ther
Falls, may perhaps be amusing : they show witb what
different ideas tbe gi'andeur and subliraity of this scene is
expressed — or rather what a fall there is from the sublime^
to the ridiculous.
' ' Beautiful, beautjful, Niagara ! others may tell of thy angry w.aters<
m feel th« Bttbliniiity of thy seene ; but to me thou art siffpaesiii^y

UPPER CANADA. 195
beautiful, and of thy various yet ceaseless beauty alone can 1 think or
flpeak. Majesty and delicacy con^pose thy robe of loveliness. Won
derful creation of God, flow on in thy nndecaying magnificence, and
to other souls be thou the type of that infinite beauty wbich is "from
everlasting to everlasting" the same. Rev. E. S. Garnett,
August 12, 1834. Boston, Mass.
NIAGARA.
Flow on forever, in thy glorious robe
Of terror and of beauty ; God hath set
His rainbow on thy forehead, and the cloud
Mantles around thy feet. And he doth give
Thy voice of thunder power to speak bf Hint
Eternally ; bidding the lip of man
Keep silence, and upon thy rocky altarpour
Incense of awe struck praise.
Augusts, 1834. Ltdia H. SiooUBNEr..
Niagara, Niagara — careering in its might,
The tierce and free Niagara shall be my theme to-night f
A glorious theme — a glorious home, Niagara, are mine ;
Heaven's fire is on thy flashing wave, it's thunder blends with thinev
The clouds are bursting fearfully, the rocks beneath me qiiiver J '
But thou unscathed ar't hurrying on, for ever and for ever.
Years touch thee not, Niagaira — thou art a changeless thing',
For still the same deep roundelay thy solemn waters sing.
ACROSTIC.
N ature's great masterpiece 1 how feeble man:
I n vain essays of thee and thine to tell —
A 11 wondrous as thou art— a mighty plan—
G reat, glorious, grand and indescribable I
A nd fain would measure thee with pigmy span' I
"R efrain," each object cries — "Lay down thy rod,.
A nd look thro' Nature, up to Nature's God."
August 18, 1834.
Tbe waters of Niagara,
'Tis wondrous how they go,
A tumblmg from the rock above,
Down to the rocks below. ' j

|9Q PPPEE CANADA.
They've run this «(ay, this many a day,
And now to shifl the scene,
I would suggest, just for a change.
To have tbem tun up streaip. 5-. P, R,
Niagara ! to thee
My spectacles I turn !
I see thy waters boil.
As if all .... did burn.
And Satan's imps, witb ardour hot,
¦\Vere thrusting^ wood benqath the pof,
O wliat a deafning noise
Thytortur'4 waters raake I
The thunders of thy voice
Kept me all night awake :
I could but hear the lumbering sound.
When all were sunk in sleep profound. '
And then what clouds of spray
Bedim my weaken'd sight ; ^
And then, in light of day.
Bring rainbows to my sight ;
Well might poor Snip thus make his note— r^
f'JUeni — Wbat a place to spunge a coat !"
And then, O what a waste
Q{ water-power is here 1
'Twould move ten thousand water-wheela.
And run them thro' the year .'
Well miglit the Yankee say — "be ^till— !•
Oh what a jdace to build a mill." A- N. C.
It is said that the first impulse of the visiter, as he stands onlh
verge of the precipice and glances' across the mighty sheet of rashirij
waters, is often one of mingled siirpris.e and disappointment Wbil
I cannot credit this of any but the roost superficial observers, I ma;
remark that my 'first impressions' of the E^lls were decidedly of tha
character. As we rushed throughthe 'Pavilion,' (1 think the house i
fo called, though I took no note,) the broad sheet of the upper Niaga
Ta, which here forms almost a bay, came prominently in view, brokei
giiclftfpiigly ^itated by the rocks over wbich the vast wrreot ripple'

BPfER CANADA. 191
a« H hurries to plunge headlong over the precipice. The view fror
tlie ground floor of the Hotel extends precisely to the actual verge o
(he abyss. Having had sorae experience ofthe magnifying propensi
jy of travellers, and especially the historians of wonders, I was realli
for one moment stunned by the impression that this was all ofthe Ca
taract of Niagara, and thatthe ^perpendicular fall of one hundred am
fifty feel' was the fqhcy creation of some prose-pqet ofthe Guljyer fa
mily which had beea silently acquiesced in bysucceeding visters whi
were ashamed to see less in the great cataract than had been seen be
fore ihem., The heavy dullness ofaclouded autumn day, which com
pleteiy muffled the roar of the waters, favored the monieutury delu
sion, and it was not until a hurried descent hy tlie zig-zag path whici
leads down the steep though wooded declivity had brought me sud
denly to the verge of the torrent, that I was fully reassured that t+if
world of tarry-at-home travellers had npt been egregiously imposec
upon, lam not, I tru^t, eminently given to rhapsody ; but if there be ano
ther spot on the face ofthe wide earth which commands so magnifi
cent a view as the table rock which overhangs the abyss of Niagara ir
the immediate viciniy|u)f'the cataract, I should very much like to visit
jt Let me attempt flPgive a faint idea ofthis.
Descending from the vast level plain above, which answers to the eV
evation of Lake Erie, ?by the rude path already mentioned, you pass
quickly through a narrow strip of springy, swampy ground, covered
mainly with bushes, and find yourself, alraost before you are aware o
its proximity, within fifty feet of the mighty sheet, standiiigon a leve
with the surface ofthe river above the cataract, while its immensi
volume is poured perpendicularly over a ledge of rocks directly in frpn
to the right, and almost immediately beneath vau. Intermediately ir
front rises the perpetual and palpable cloud of vapor from the surfaci
ofthe boiling cauldron beneath, with the rainbow at intervals encir
cling its brow. Across the abyss and inclining to the left, rises Goa
Island; while still farther to the left yet fairly in fi;ont of the awec
and breattiless gazer, pours the torrent from the American side of the
island, which would of itself be deemed a very considerable cataract
and every way worthy of attention, were it not in the immediate vicin-
ity and n porcion of one of at least ten limes its volurae.
The visiter at length pauses, fatigued but not satiated by his fixed
and eager gaze, and now his glance takes a wider scope, and includes
the whole field of vision. He sees the majestic river come sweeping
4qwn, in the pride of hs scarce rivalled magnitude, toward the 9<wtb,

JS8 BPPER CA?rADA.
when it is cheeked by a strong barrier of nature, and turns abruptly to
the east and hurries almost instantaneously over the precipice. Being
. joined half a tnile below, by the water from the American side of the
island, it holds on its coni^e, deeply and rapidly, over its bed of rock,
forming violeqt whirlpools and eddies, and is speedily lostto tbe view
between high banks of oft overhanging rock, through which it has
vom its gigantie though circumscribed channel, and from which it on
ly emerges at Lewiston, seven miles below. On all sides, tbe view is
bounded by the higher range of country, rising to the height of little
more than a hundred feet above the upper level of waters, and covered
in very considerable proportion, with wood. Only a few buildings are
yet seen peeringfrom among tbe trees and shrubbery, and tbey have
Jns| begun to be a drawback on the stern simplicity and unstudied
grandeur ofthe scene. I fear, however, they are destined to become
a positive nuisance, unless they are abated by the adoption ofa more
considerate course by visiters. This giving every other person who
accosts you a few shillings to show some trumpery which you care not
a straw for, may be tbe easiest way of ridding yourself of his intrusive
company and tbe interruption which it occasions to some cherished
traiit of thought ; butit is a riddance at tlje expeiA ofthe next comer,
^nd directly calculated to ensure the perpetual ana harrassing annoy-
pRceofall future visiters. I wish it were provided by law that no
building sbould be erected within sight of the little plot of ground im-
piediately adjoining the cataract. As matters are now conducted, an-
f>ther twenty years may see the whole ampitheatre filled with grog
shops, humbug museums, &c.&c. — >Vho knows but it may he profan-
pi by cotton factories ?
I do not know who first attempted to give an idea of the form of the
(:ataract by comparing it to a horse-shoe ; but I should be disposed to
quarrel with it could I think of any thing else more appropriate. The
centre ofthe fall (wbich, jt is well known, is worn back or indented
many feetferther than tbe wings,) is very nearly straight across.there-
jn nowise resembling the front of ia horse-shoe. The wing on the A-
merican side runs angularly thence to the adjacent point of Goat Island
r-rbut thaton tbe British side is much shorter, and ia very nearly at
right angles with the centre. Both of the wings, as well as that por
tion ofthe fall, on the American side ofthe island, exhibit the ordinary
appearance of of a,gasc^de — agitated, broken, and almost snow-while
frora the instant tf overleaping the precipice; but so great is the vol-
lirae of water on the central, sheet that the water retains the green hue
9f Lak^Erie and the deep channel of tho river not only on the yerge

«f the precipice, but even afler it has taken the irrevocable plunge. (I
ftiay here state, what some of the old school may not have remarked
or may have forgotten, that the little island in the middle of the fall,
spoken ofby Goldsmith, has no longer an existence.)
The great raagnitude and extent of the fall, with the perfect and
harmonious grandeur of every thing connected with it diminishes th«
imposing effect ofthe cataract, so far as its height alone is regarded. (
doubt that a majority of its visiters, throwing asfde all prior knpwledge
would adjudge the actual descent from the sifrface of the water above
to that belo* at morethan fifty feet. It is only when you have descend
ed by the stair-case some two hundred steps, and fiffd yotfrself still
some fifty feet above the level of the basin, that you obtain an adeijuate'
idea ofthe vast height of the fall.
I shall not soon forget the sensations 1 expevienced during my visilS
to this subterranean region. It was yet early. in the morning when I
reached the vicinity ofthe cataract, and found that not another person
had made his appearance, and eyen the house of the guide was still
fast. As I had already determined on a descent at this period, I did!
Iiot hesitate, but wound quickly down the lingering stairway,- and took
the little path which jHnducts around the projectionsof the overhanging
rock to the sheet ofWe cataract, keeping as far as pbssiblfe above thef
edge ofthe basin. The mist was not a remarkably gentle one, to be
gin with, aided as it was by the rlHs which are precipitated from the'
cliff in a hundred streams at every rod of the progress. But it was no*
till I had passed the last projection, and found myself in the immediate'
presence of^ the descending sheet of water, th^t I was assailed by 9
furious and appare*i{ly perpetual tempest of Wind and rainy against
*hich my amateur tquipmenft^of handkerehtef and cloak were not cal*
eulated to afford any adequate protection. I looked to the column cxf
falling water, which visiters of the requisilenerve readily dash through
in their oil cloth dresses, preceded by, a guide, and thence pass dry-
shod between the water and tbe rock nearly to the c'entre ofthe fall-^'
but the sun was not visible, and with,out-it the darkness in that suba^'
queous domain must be resolvable by wine measure. The' prospect
ahead, therefore, presenting nothing but wind and water,bothqf whicb^
were sufiiciently abundant on this side the curtain, I baited, protected
my eyes as well .as might be from the dashitig storm for one long antf
earnest gaze at the majestic column before and almost. directly. .above'
me^ and then turned to retrace my st^ps, pretty thoroughly dreoche^
and quite resigned toa postponemem ofmyiesearches undsrtheFatto'
^ NtagarS to another opportunky.

200 tppEft feANAliA.
SUSPENSION BRIDGE.
The projected work over the Niagara, is to be a chain siispeHiidil
bridge, and will be a greater work of the kind, by far, than any other
in the world. It has been supposed, by soinej that these suspensioui
or pendant bridges, were a modern invention ; but they were known as
early as the time of Scamozzi, the great architect of Venice. Indeed
their use has been of great antiquity in mountainous countriesf and
the principle was well understood by the South American Indians', ai
tbe conquerors discovered by their bridges, which were constructed of
ropes. The most remarkable bridge of the kind in existeiice, is that
over the Meiiai Strait^ between the isle of Anglesa and Csernarvori^
shire, in Wales — completed in 1825. "The road way is one hundred
feet above the surface ofthe water at high tide. The opening betweeH
the points of suspension is five hundred and sixty feet. The platfurai
is thirty feet in breadth. The whole is suspended from four lines of
strong iron cables by perpendicular iron rods five feet apart. The ca^
bles pass over rollers on the tops of pillars, and fixed to iron frames
under ground, which are kept down by masonry. The weight of the
whole bridge, between the points of suspension, is four hundred and
eighty-nine tons." Thereare several bridges ofj^'s kind iii the United
States, though none of equal dimensiuiis to tha^ust described. C^e
of these crosses the Merrimack, at Newburyport. It is a curves whos6
(Bord measures two hundred and fourty-four feet.- There is another
over the Brandywine, at Wilmington, and two or more over the Mo-
nongahela, at and near Brownsville. One of these forms an inverted
suspended arch, with a cord of one hundred and twelve feet.
It is this latter form of biidge which it is proposed to suspend over
the dark and troubled golf of the Niagara at Le<viston. The pillars
Or towers, as points of support, are to be erected on the high banks oil
either side ofthe river, over wbich pillars tbe chains are to pass, to be
tittached at each extremity of the rock.-?, or massive pieces of iron, i*
be secured firmlyunder ground, if the rocks cannot be used for the pur
pose of 'safety. The banks at Lewiston and Queenston, where the
bridge is lo be located, gre 125 feet in height. There are two locations
in view, however, and tbe Ireight of the towers^ and length of chain,
will diepend upon the selection. In the one case, should the towers be
erected from the base of the banks,- at the water's edge, they must be
carried up tp the height of 200 feet, in which case the Suspension chains
«ill br duly 600 feet in length, but should the other site becb@»-en, end
the towers erected upon tbe banks, they wUl require a height of but 9§
or 100 feet, extending the cord of the. arch, however to 1,000 feet, I«

OPPEK CANAIJA. 20i
teithercase, the inverted arch, at the lowest point, will be 120 feet above
the stream.. Both towers will be massive and firmly built upori a base
of freestone. The flooring or maici body of the bridge will be sustain*
ed by strong iron chainsj or rodsj from orie point of support to thd
tother^ "The great advantage of suspension bridges, consists intheir
stability of equilibriim, in consequence df whicli a smaller amount ol*
tnaterials is necessary for their construction than for that of any other
bridge. If a suspension bridge be shaken, or thrown out of equilibrumi
it returns by its weight to its proper place, whereas the reverse hap
pens in bridges which arebuiltabovfe the level oftheir supporter's."
The Weight of the suspending chains will be three hundred and
thirty-six totis, composed upon the ti'ansverse section of thirty-two
separate bars of iron — each link nine feet nitie incheisjin length, by onS
to tliree inches (jvidth and depth-^equal to ninety-six solid inches of iron.
ThB lateral ddhesion of these united bars will sustain a force of 240(J
tons. Reduce this weight one-ihird, (to 160 tons) and we have the
hiaximum Strength of tlie united cables. The suspension rods, eight
hundred in nuriaber, and one inch square^ will sustain & weiglit equal
to 6000 tons, including -Their own weight.
Two estimates of thework have been pi-opo^ed. The first and most
fextensive contemplates the erection of towers from the surface of the
i*iver, having eight niain cables as a suspending power, with a road way
of 29 feetj tb be divided into two carriage ways, of 12 feet each, and
having a foot way of five feet in the iientre. Upon this plan the cost;
is estimated at $131,511,40. By the second estimate the Work can be
built for f 93,511,4(J.
The subscription book* for the stock of this noble enterprise, are
now Open at Faulkner's Western hotel, Courtlaud-street, and will re
main op^n for some days to come, under the directioii of A. S. Tyrori,-
Esq of Lewiston. As to the value of the stock we entertain not a,
doubt: There is already much crossing ofthe river at Le"«viston, not-
¦withstandirig the difiiculties of the ferry; and without regard to other
improvements in progress or in prospect, and the increase of. popula
tion, the travelling would be centupled from the'' day thei work is com-'
pleted. But there are othef causes which must operate to-render thei
Stock productive. The falls, as the greatest objects' of interest in th^
natural world, will be^always visited by thousands of travellers for plea
sure every season-r-these thousands increasing with the incrls^se of
population iii a geometrical raitio— and eVery such visitor will inost-s,
stssuredly cross the great pendant bridge, as a subject df curiosity,, ii*
fbr nothing else. But this is not all. Rail roads are now under con-'
26

trppER ca??a£va.
tract from- Lockport to the falls, and also from Buffalo totfiesam«
goint. A charter Iras likewise been granted for a rail road ffom Lew
iston, to intersect that of Lockport. This work will be undertakei*
without delay, so that by another year, every possible facility for
travelling to the bridge, will bave been opened even before its comple
tion. Stone of the best and most durable qualities will be found at
the bases of the towers. Lime may be prepared upon the spot, and
¦sand procured within a short distance, by water communication.
What a station will not a structure like the one in prospect afTord,
for the lover of the sublime and terrible to stand and meditate at lei-
sure upon the works of the Great Architect ofthe Universe! Sus
pended as it were midway in air, between tbe high and precipitous
banjis forming the deep gulf through which the vast column of the Ni
agara sweeps .maddening onward, as if not yet re-eovered from the
shock and terror of its mighty falla few miles above, the imaginative'
spectator, poised thus upon the airy arch, might almost doubt whether
the scene was one of sublime reality, or not rather one of those dream»
»nd terrible illusions which, in the dark ages of superstition,, would
have been attributed to the spells of some malignant enchanter.
The vilTagB of Chippawa, two miles above the fklfs,,
and ten miles from Queenston, on both sides ofthe Well
and Riv^ at it» mouth, is of ancient date.
" Since last year Upwards of 30 new buildings have been ereetet^,
and at least 50 more are expected tohebuiltduringthe presentseason.
The railroad to Queenston is in a forward state, so that the facilities'
for traVteUingby this route will, in a short time be greatly increased. —
The daily communication with BufTalo by steam boats is also of grea*
impoiitance to the place.
We mention the following list ofstores,^ &c.f in the village. There
are 6"general Merchants' stores; SForwarding do.;. 5- Grocery do.; 4
Taverns; I Temperance House; 2 Bakehouses; 3 Blacksmith^
shops ; 1 Gunsmith's do.; 2 Cabinet Maker's do.; 2 Coach and Wag
gon do.; a number of Joiner's do.; 2Tin and Copper Smiths' dc; #
Shoemaker's' do.; 3 Tailors' do.; 1 Watchmaker's do.; 1 Hatter's do.
3 Steam Grist Mills.; 2 Steam Saw Mills in course of erection ; 2 Dis
tilleries; 2 Foundries, one on a large scale ; I Attorney's Office; I
|'ost*)lloe; 1 Printing Office ; an Etvglish 'Chiirch and a Methodist
meetinghouse. The population ofthe place is abeut 400.
Opposite Lewiston in the IJnited States stands Queens-*

UPPER CANABA. 20S
ton, in the township of Niagara, on the Canadian fron
tier, more remarkable for the splendid monument, a state
ly column on the brow of the eminence, overlooking a
vast extent of country on both sides of the Niagara, erect
ed to the memory of Sir Isaac Broek, paying a merited
tribute to his valor and good conduct, than for the extent
or neattiess of the village. The country from Niagara t»
the Falls, a distance of eight miles, is well cleared ;
there are several large farms with excellent houses on themr
and orchards containing the choicest kinds of peaches,^
pears, apples and plums. In the summer months stages-
are continually running between Niagara and the Falls —
Queenston stands nearly semi-distant between tbem.—
From Queenston there is a coach to Hannlton, by St»
Catherines, through a thickly settled and fertile country..
Between the Falls, and St. Catherines, there is a district
of country called the Short Hills, they are very steep, antJ
on the farm formerly belonging to Mr. Henn, and lat^y
,purchased by Government,the two inland seas, lakes Erie
and Ontario can be seen ; the view,, is most extensive,^
comprehending these two magnificent lakes, the fine ot
the falls with its ever rising mists, the town of Niagara,,
with its steam-boats, schooners, docks, houses, wharvesy
churches, forts, the lofty and towering moniiraent of Sir
Isaac Brock, and a vast extent of cultivated and wood
land country, intersected by streams, broken by hills, and
diversified by plains. A more splendid scene^^can scarcely
be conceived. Sir Isaac Brock's memory is held in the;
profoundest veneration by the Canadians, his bravery,.
courtesy, gallant bearing, kindness, and indiefatigable at
tention to the troops he commanded, procured him their
utmost confidence and affection. At a dinner which
took place at Hamilton on the 14th of October, 1833, to
comraemoiate the anniversary ofthe battle of QuGeiastoni

204( VPPEK PANADA.
a Canadian soldier, who was wounded in that engages
ment, ?ent in the following elegy to Sir Isaac Brock'^
©lemory, J give it not so much for its merit, as, a proof
of the fervour and intensity of their j-egard to, the ni^n.mry
fif their (leparteti herq.
You British subjects passing by
Queenstcin's proud Monument, cast youreye^
For there entombed within that rock
Lies the sacred dust of Sir Isaac Brock^
Also the dust of-McDonald the brave
¦Who shared his fate, and shares his grave :
The invaders of Canada to repel.
They bravely fought and gloriously fell.
This fertile country from these height? yiew round
Then let a gratefiil tear drop down.
For since theconquest of Quebec was told.
When Briton moujned for valiant Wolfe of old.,
Canada had ne'er such reason to complain
As when her gallant patriarch. Brock wasslaio,
The verse, though rude and unharnionious is charae-.
teristic of the general feeling cf Upper Canadians towards.
General Brock. The Canadiai^ Militia during the war
between Great Britain and the United States, displayed
¦^e most enthusiastic zeal in defence of British suprema-
T,cy ; they arose to defend their country and their homes,
? nor did they ever'shrink from the contest whilst there
was a shadow of success, and indeed, without exagger- .
ation, it may be said, they were mainly instrumental in
^securing it to the British Crown. They had always to
contend against a much larger force, but were neverthes-
|ess generally successful.
, The river Welland enters the Niagara at the village of
CJhippawa : it gives name to t\}.e, canai, which connects
$he navigation of the two great .I^kes, Erie and Ontario,
-te. jtS j?as§sa§e rf)und tfee ^i^ara Falls. The length of.

CPPER CANADA. ' 205'
this canal is about forty miles, commencing at Fort Dal
housie in Lake Ontario, and ending at Port Colborne,
or Gravelly Bay, in Lake Erie. It admits vessels of 125-
tons burthen. A work of such inimense and obvious u-
tilitv should have been finished like the Rideau Canal,
iristead of which the route wias injudiciously chosen,
through the pestilential swamps of Wainfleet, and the
locks constructed of wood instead of stone. The conse
quence has been, that instead of proving, as it must have
done, under more auspicious circumstances, a source of
wealth, it has been constantly undergoing repairs, whieh
have swallowed up all its tolls. Nevertheless great praise
is due to its enterprising projector Mr. Merritt, who will
yel succeed it? establishing its success, especially if Tie is
fortunate enough to be aided by a few more ofthe blast
ings, of that incorrigible slanderer, and fabricator of false
hoods, the demagogue Mackenzie.
•'I have no means of ascertaining what quantity of mer
chandize passed through Oswego to Upper Canada during
the last year, neither can I tell the amount of furniture
which was sent to the upper lakes ; but the merchandize,
including salt shipped from that port through the Welland
Canal destined to the above States, amounted to 39,798,-.
g90 lbs."
"The village of Thorold, Niagara District, adjoins the
"Welland Canalon the west and is seen from it, as is Lake
Ontario, which is distant about eight miles. The situa--
tion is most beautiful and salubrious, and frora the flour
ishing state of the village, and its superior water privile
ges, must rapidly increase in value. In the village, tliere
are two flouring mills, five saw mills, a carding and
fulling mill, several stores, mantifactories, mechanics, &c.
It is surrounded by the most respectable villages in the
Pistrict, Jjeing distant from Niagara 12 miles, Queensto« '

206 UPPER CANADA.
7, St. Davids 5, St. Catharines 4, Allanborough 4, Port
Kobinson 6, Stamford 6, Drummon(|yille 7, Chippawa 10,
aad the Fails 8." ^
, The township of Clinton fronts lake Ontario, possess
ing a fine soil of, rich yellow and black loam — near the
centre of the township the land is billy, supposed to con-
taiB lead mines. Mr. John Lee, of Toronto, petitioned
that the Parliament might assist him in working the mine.
He set forth that he had lately discovered a valuable mine
of lead ore in the townsbip of Clinton, and had, at his own
expense, commenced mining operations, and succeeded
in obtaining some fine specimens of lead ore, at a short
distance belovy the surface, and had no doubt that the
maiin body ofthe ore might be easily got at without much
trouble or expense. He obtained a grant from the Go
vernment of "the privilege of working the mine, and he
pray«d that a sum of money might be vested in the hands
of Commissioners to enable him, in conjunction with his '
own resources, to bring the mine into successful opera-
jn, tlie money to be repaid in five years. In this town-
lip is a small cave from whence a spring issues, in which'
dar^og summer a quantity of ice is formed, and which in
wiBter is quite free from ice. The thirty mile creek runs
through the township, but it is indifferently watered.
?'In Ifee towiishrp of Clinton, in the Niag-ara District, there is a small
cavern ia tte side ofthe moLiotaio, from the inner rocks of which ooze
small qaanlities of water. Two gentlemen, on whora I can r^ily, tell
ntetbattW water freezes in sumraer and dissolves in winterj that as
the weather grows cold in autumn and winter, the ice melts away, but
as the spring opens it begins to>freeze, and forms large icicles, so that
by harvest, they may be conveniently used to make ice-water. We
would be glad if some scientific person- would give us a solution ofthis
singular phenomenon. I think geologists are of opinion, that there are
large bodies of nitre in the bowels of the eaith, but how this can pfo-
dace 60 singular an effect is more than I can tell. If itdmild be made
to appear that the ifvater in this cavern, or that connected with it, waa

tfpEft caSada. sot
higher ill winter than summer, then I should think that' the air might
produce^tlie efTect by passing over large bodies of nitre, in these sub
terraneous passages whicli at other seasons of the year are filled wit!*
water. But 1 am not naturalist enough, neither am 1 geologist enoiigfe
to determine the correctness of the supposition I have made."
FORT ERIE.
At the head of the Niagara river, and 16 miles framt
Chippawa, is Fort Erie, a sraall village situate on a pretJy
slope, surmounted by a fort, likely however to become a
place of great importance from its contiguity to Black
Rock and Buflalo, but more especially as it will be the
t«rmitlation of the grdat rail road, extending along the
north shore of lake Erie from Sandwich, passing in line
with the Talbot road, through the rich and flourishing
Districts of London and the West Fort Erie is in the
township of Bertie. D0NNTILLE
Is situated on the north batik ofthe Grand River, five miles from ' tte
entrance of the same into Lake Erie. In 1829 the Welland Candl
Company constructed a dam across the river at this place for the p«r-
pose of raising the water to feed the canal on the highest ecim rah !«vel
— ^the construction ofthis work was the signal for the comttiencewierat
ofa village. In the same year, Olivfer Phelps, Esq., now of St, Ca-
tharinesi laid out the plot for the town, and shortly thei'eaftertlie erec
tion of buildings commenced. Since that time the town has gfadiwiily
increased until it bas arrived to its present importance. FlonKshjiig'
like a "green bay tree," and enjoying the advamages and blessijiigs «f
agriculture, commerce and manufactures, Dunnville now bids fair ts»
be one of our first Provincial towns. There are now in the town, 7
merchant shops, 2 groceries, a post-office, a school-house, 5 pnyie
houses, 1 grist-mill, 2 blacksmiths, 3 resident physicians, 3 saw-miiils,
1 clothing establishraent, 1 bakery, 2 tailors' shops, 2 shoemakers, 1
waggon maker, 1 attorney, and 1 magistrate. About 100 building*
and between 3 and 400 inhabitants-.
The location ofthe town speaks volumes for its future greatness and
importance; — situated as it is on the Grand River, Welland Canal an*
Lake Erie, it bids fair to be a great commercial emporium; — surround
ed as itis by a rich prolific country, whose surfacejs becoming yearly

208 BPPER CANADi..
more cultivated, it promises itself a great many blessings from agri*
culture; favored as italso is with countless hydraulic privileges, it has
a certain prospect of being the Manchester orUpper Canada;
In consequence of the great fall of water at this place, we can confi*
dently assert that for manufacturing facilities, it far exceeds arty tow»,
in the country; — for here the whole ofthe Grand River, the largest in
the Province, half a mile ih width and 18 or 20 feet in depth can be
brought to bear upon machinery by means of side cuts. Immediately
below the dam the river is Somewhat contracted, but very deep, and
flows on infpeace ahd tranquility to mingle with the waters of Lake
Erie five miles below. At the mouth ofthe stream there is yet the re-
tilEtinsof the naval station, erected there duriiig the last war. Thfi
sailors and marines as also the arms and ammunition have been lon^
since reraoved andall that remains to tell the visitor where the huge
leviathans of the lake spread their canvass tci the breeze, or where the
chivalry of Canada with firm resolve rallied around the banner of old
England, are a few old dilapidated buildings and barracks whitened
and bleached with the storms, and reeking in every passing gale, fit
representatives of the destruction for whicb ithey were intended;-^and
being convincing evidence ofthe progress of time,- and the final disso-
Mtion of all things terrestrial. The bar in the mouth of the River is
sufficiently deep to admit the largest vessel on the Lsike to pass and
proceed directly up to Dunnville. This is a remarkably fine harbor^
and vessels in the greatest storms have entered with the utraost safety.
Thetractof land between Dunnville and the Lake has, until of late
belonged to the Six Nations,, and consequently are not improved to a
great extent, bat since their salei by the Government, they are rapidly
advancing in cultivation. There is also an excellent fishery at Dunn
ville;— while there we saw fish in great numbers drawn to the Shores id
Beines. We saw with pleasure that two steamers are in progress of complex
tion, intended for the navigrtiori ofour Boble river, and Sincerely hope,
with the blessings of Providence, to have them gladden the view with
their daily visits to our town. One of them^ tbe Sir Walter Scott, has
been upon the river during the past season, but owing to some cause
not known to us, she proved very inefficient. She is now undergoing a
thorough overhauling, and will, we trust, be able to commence fier
trips from Dunville to Brantford so soon as the improvement^ on the
river are completed.
The other Steamer, the Dunnville, is being built by Andrew Thomp
son, Esq. and bids fair to be the "Hon of our v^aters." Oar only fear

UPPJElt CANABA. 208r
illhat her size will riot pejrmit her to navigate the (iraiid River, for al-
Ihi^Ugh a vessel of almost any size may pass in the centre of the stream^
yet the necessary contlraction 6fthe excavation arid locks would prevent
then! passiflg tbe works Of the navigation.
Thie ^reat frontier rail road, should it bfe bdnstructedj would pass
through t)unnville, and fciross the Grand HiV6r on the dam at that place:-
i3ut as the past and present years hSve been noted fbr "biJhble pro-'
.lects," *e are doubtful as to the final isstie df this work.
Th6 central loication of Durinville is another cbnvincing evidence of,
its future greatness. Tbei-e are nb less than six principal roads ben-
terifi^ to tbiSi place. The roads from Rdinhanij VVEtlpdle and Port Do¦^
Ver, the mouth of t'he river^ Cayuga; Indiana, York and Caledonia';
Canborough and Sthithvillfe, atid the Fdrt Erie and Niagard road.
After indulging in tbe foregoing observations. We see no reason \thf
iyunviil'e should not be one ofour first Prbvincial towns;,
CAYUGA.
On the 30th of April, 1835j I rode to S6e thd lidw se!-
lietWent of Cayuga, and vVas gi'sitifled to find that alon^ .
tRe whole linebfrttad, new settlements were forming,
iai^ge* clearings beiiig raade, s;bnie df the best log hpuses
t had geen in' the country erected, safrotinded with siriallj
but' neat gat'dens, clearly indicating that the settlers werd'
Europeans. At the point inhere yoU first stfi'ke thei
Graiid' RiVdf, a lat^ge tavern has been builtj and lots been
sold for' t!he [iiif po^e of making a village. The ridd ailong
the banks ofthis fiver, t& Cayifga,'a distance of sixteen
hlildSj is one ofthe niost' cttetrming in the Province. Thd
road f tins parallel with and dldsd by thd river; on both
side's thd country is welt cleared and admirably cultivat
ed. Somd tfees of d majestic growth are left overhang-'
ihg the streamj and thd lovely islands^ iritersperseti
thfoOghoilt'thd river, present an appearance of singular
beauty. The foila'gd had attsiindd about two thirds of' its
full develbpetridnt', and was precisely in that stageW teil-?
der, yellovviSh verdurd, when Spring, in nsy view, wears
her most beautiful face. Nothing could exceed' the bril*
27

210 1tr*>1*ER CANAfirA^^*
liancy ofthe gredn, carpet on the islands in the river^ ateS
of some of the fields on its banks,- nor have I any wheref
else seeli siich a charrning bordei" df trees and grass, a»
skirted the strea,nj for several miles. Between these love
ly shores the river rolled lull to its brim, — smooth, un
broken, apparently a vast canalr^its still, soft waters-
moving on as calm as a mirror, forming a striking con
trast with the deep, dark, sombre forest of pines whiclt
here and there had been left untouched to th« vvater's-
edge. The whole tract of land, on- both sides of the rivery
six miles deep, belonged to the Indfans, but owing to the'
indefatigable exertions of Sir John Colborne her itijucfed;
them to naake a surrender of an extensive and fertile por
tion now called the townships of Cayuga and Dunn, 14
miles in length frora the mouth of the riy-er. The banks
ofthis river form the Reserve ofthe Six Nations, extend-;
ing fifty miles from Lake Erie to Brantford ; — a portion-,
of these lands were sold to an ancient and respectable fa
mily in the Province, named Nelles, .and the settlement
was called after them. The road to Cayuga passes thro^
this settlement, and satisfactorily accounts fpr the extent*
of richly cultivated country, without stumps to be seen on
thp banks of the river. A large village called York, hav-,
infg the advantage ofa ppst-otficer has been formed,- with
in these three years, and is augmenting rapidly; —it has
mills, several large stores, taverns, a school, and carries
on already a considerable trade. Between it and the vil
lage pf Caynga, is another village called Indiana, still the
residence of many Indians, but having some largejiouses
and stores in it belonging to Europeans. Several neat
residences have been erected in favorable positions on the
banks of this lovely river, particularly one, belonging to
Mr. Martin of Galway, son ofthe amiable, but eccentric
philanthropist, of that name. ,

DPPEK CANADA. Ull
In'every instance when "these fine lands have beea
Jjrought into market, it has been followed by the clearing
aud culture of the soil, by the conversion of cabins into
cottages, of hamlets into villages, of villages into towns^
and of towns into cities : by the encouragement of indus
try and trade ; by public order and social streugtli. —
Since that time I have been many times to Cayuga, and
have been highly gratified at the rapidity of its settlement.
The crops last year, as well as the present, were particu-
Jarly luxuriant along the whole route ofthe river. Great
quantities of wild fruit grow along the banks of this inter
esting river, particularly tbe grape, "whose noble vines.
were almost borne down by the weight of the immense
clusters of fruit hanging pendent from them,. Several
species of thorn, and prickly ash, adorn the banks, and
the finest varieties of wild honey-suckle I ever beheld;,
there are also abundance of that beautiful parastical plant
entwining round the trees, elegantly decorated with or
ange coloured berries, termed the celestina scandens. —
This country must be well adapted for fruit ; there is ac
tually a -superabundance of raspberries, strawberries,
plums, and apples growing in the wild state. Along the
flats of the Grand River, very heavy crops of Indian corn
and barley are raised, and I saw several large ftelds of
wheat ofthe most promising aspect. The quarries of
gypsum or plaister of Paris seem inexhaustible and sever
al mills for grinding it, are in active operation along its
course. The Niagara District returns six Members to the Houses:
of Assembly. <

21% UPPER CANABA.
THE GPJIE DISTRICT,
|s divitiedintQtl^e two pounties of llahon and Wentworth,
CQUNTY OF. pAtTON.
TowDsltinf. CuUivated acres, yoculiivated acres. Ass^sment, Populatioii.
Dumfries, 35,690 72,300 59.078 4.306
West FlambofQ' 51,061 12,57^ 27,770 2M2r,
Nelson, ¦ ' 10,380 26,8^ 32,008 2,231
WatexloS, 17,771 51,666 K,565 2,79<
Woolwich. / 3,043 13,557 10,4^ 5UQ
Erin, 2,695s 21,608 10,010 963
Garafraxa, 262i 4,688 1x655 10?
Beverly, 6,^. 27,343 18,7^ 1.477
Wilmot, 0,381 23,373 16,492 1,10|
T'rafaiga'r, 1^,083 40,331 50,254 3,898
Esquesing, 10,74a 38,204 29,788 2,20a
East FlamboxQ' 4,325 12,612 13,^ft 86?
Guelph, ' '5,962 9,623 23,559 3,451
PusUncb, 1,914 28,556 10,299 1,0^?^
Nichol, 836 25,716 7,414 397-
Nassageweya, 2,136 14,678 8,17Q 75^
Jlramosa, 2,548 17,7^2 8,374 631
CQUIJTT Of W^ENTWOETB.
Town of Hamilton, 841 ' 1,-357 17.982 2,155
Barton, 6,576 7,72-4 19,946 l,m
Ancaster, 14,732 23,774 4l,723 2,664
sStfleet, 6^307 15,626 24,819 1,808
Glanfoi-d, 4,788 10,24-3 12,255 741
Grand River Tract, 12,395 ^2,060 34,3^ 3,007
Binbrook, 2,225 9,504 6,592 504
For 1836, Dumfries is assessed at £70,129 5 0— rtbe population haai
s^lso increased to 5,081, and the other townships in the.s^nie ratia
Horses, 5^^— Four year old Oxen, 6,969— Milch Qows, 12,;3{e-r:
Ifwq year old Horned CaUle, 5,242.
HAMILTON,
Thereare few places iq North America that have tn-.
preased more rapidly, or stancl in a more beautiful and ad
vantageous situation than the town of Hamilton. In the
smutner of 1833, my cpnstant evening's w^alk was from
Mr. Burley's tavern, to the Lake shpre, distant about a
mile — :there were, then, but two hpuses between theqi,
povv it is pne cpntinued street, intersected by side streets,
branching in bpth directions. The Main-street pf Ham-
ijt^ is qf npble wi<^th, and has beeii cQustantly improving

UPPER CANADA. 213
by the erection of spacious brick buildings, and must be-
cdftie, ere lotig, a splendid one. The court-house is a
fine stone building, at present unenclosed, but if the im
provements in contemplation, relative to the gaol,, should
he carried into effect, it will render it an object of greater
beauty and more utility. Several excellent liouses have
been erected— ^a Catholic, and an Episcopal church are in
course of building — two noble taverns, both fronting the
lake, are completed — a large stone brewery on the lake
ghor-e is in operation, perhaps the best in the District, and
the splendid mansion of A- N. McNab, Esq. of which ihe
frontispiece conveys but a very iraperfect impression, and
commanding ^he entire view of the lake, is unequalled in
the Pfoviqee, It is a most extensive building, beauti
fully desigaed, and elegantly finished; itis called Don-
puRN, from a place of that name in Scotland, belonging
XO Jhe a,nGestors of Mr- McNab. To the indefatigable
exertions of this able, spirited and enterprising gentleman,
Hamilton is infinitely indebted. Both in, and out of Par
liament, his exertions have been unceasing in the promiQ-
tion of its welfare, and it must prove asource ofthe high
est gratification to him, to behold Hamilton, in the esta
blishment of which he has been so actively engaged, as
sume an importance and celebrity, not inferior to any
town of the same standing in -America. On the mountain
averhanging Hamilton, are two fine stone, maiisions, be
longing to J. M, Whyte, and Scott Burn, Esqs. the forraer
surrounded by an excellent and extensive park fenceyand
both erabracing most comprehensive views of the lake,
Burlington canal, Toronto harbpur, and a splendid woiod*
land va,lley immediajlely beneath them.,
PROSPKRITY QP THE TOWN OF HAMIIiTON.
The population of this Town when taken, as we learn from the town
?t3§essor. 18g4> in September, was 2101 ; and when taken in the year

214 UPPER CANADA.
lollowing, in May, 1835, it was -2600, showing an increase of 500 in
seven months^tlje population is now probably about 3,000. The cen
sus in 1833, as taken by the township assessor, was about 1,400. The
amount ofthe town revenue in 1834 was, including Police taxes ii270,
and the expenditure nearly the same.
The amount of 'the town reveaue in 1835, ia, including the Police
taxes, £4-30 or thereabouts, showing a very greart increase in the
wealth and prosperity ofthis town.
It is probable more buildings will be put up in the ensuing summer
than has ever before been put up in the town. Several ofour most
opulent merchants are making preparations to erectlarge brick build
ings in King-street. The contractors are taking advantage of the
sleighing, by removing the old frames of houses to clear the'lots for
more permanent buildings.
The town of Hamilton is the District town, at which
the Assizes and Quarter Sessions are held : it returns a
raember to Parliament. Hamilton has a literary society,
at which scientific, philosophical, and political questions
are discussed ; the debates are well sustained, and it will
djubtless prove an excellent school for training young;
barristers in the habit of extemporaneous speaking. Mr.
Catteimole, the author of a work on emigration, lives in
this town. 1 have ever been accustoraed to speak of both
men and things, as I feol, and being fully persuaded that
Mr. Cattermole was a faithful friend to this Province, in
his efforts to further emigration, 1 regret and am surprised
that his claims to its consideration have been altogether
and most ^accfountably overlooked. A medical society
has been also formed, and I trust the tirae is not distant
when it will have a public hospital. The Gore Bank,
which has been chartered, is now established at Harailton,
and must proye of great advantage in promoting its still
further improvement. From tirae to time it has been in
agitation to connect Hamilton with Lake Erie by Rail
Road, forming the nearest and quickest connecting link
between the two lakes, the proposed route was to Port

w UPPER CANADA. 215
Dover on the shores of Lake Erie, its practicability and
utility may be seen by the engineer's report. But could
it be possible to carry a railroad to Brantford, to conned
the London and Western Districts with Lake Ontaeio, it
would be the route both for goods and passengers from
tbe extensive territory of Michigan and the Western states.
The excitement it has produced, and the arguments by
which respective ^-outes are sustained, will be seen by re
ference to the Appendix.
PRICES CURRENT IN UPPER CANADA.
Hamilton, Feb. 20; 1836.
Wheal, per 60 lbs. 7s
Flour, per 100 lbs. '$3
Oats, per bushel, 2s 6d
Beef, per cwt. $5 a $5
Pork, per cwt. f4 a f 5
Butter, per ly. Is a Is 4d
New York Currency.

Cobourg, Feb. 23. 1836,
Wheat, per 60 lbs. 3s 9d a 4s 3d-
Flour, superfine, per barrel 22s 6d
Do, fine do 20s a 21s 3d
Oats, per bushel Is a Is 3d
Peas, do. i;' 2s 5d vi.
Beef, per cwt. - 22s 6d - .
Butter, per Ib. . 7d a 9d
Pork, fresh, per 100 lbs. 22 6d a 25s
Halifax Carrency, Kingston, Feb; 23, 1836.
Wheat, per 60 lbs. , 4s 3d a 4s 6d { '-
Flour, Fine, per bri. 25s a 27s 6d
Oats, per bushel 1-s 3d al$6cl. "
Beef, per cwt. 17s 6d a 20s
* / Pork, fresh, per 100 lbs. 25s a 27s 6d
Butter, per lb. 7d a 8d
Halifax Currency.
» As a great proof of the great trade which Hamilt<ja
carries on, through the Burlington Bay canal, in one week
during the month of July, in the present year, and frojai
one ofthe four wharves at Hamilton, was shipped 17,000
bushels of wheat, per bushel at this tinoie ^^1.

iipPER caNaDA.
Besides tbe District School, Hamilton has seVerat jlfl^
Vate Seminaries most respectably Conducted. There af^
three newspapers published in Hamilton: and itis scarce*
ly too much to predicate that it will become one of tbi*
most flourishing, as it is already, one (Jf the most beaOti^
ful towns in CanaeJa. 1» February 1836 thei'e Were tat'
ces on tbe Lake three days Consecutively : and on April
8th tvV-o steamboats afrived at Burlington Canal witb pas-*
sengers from Toronto, who were conveyed to Hamilton}
in stages, over the ice, a distance of seven- fiiiles*
The Gore Bank is established in this town, and froal
its respectability and liberality is likely to prove highly
advantagepus tp this very flourishing District.
STONEY GREEK
Is six mile& front Hamilton oh tbe Nlagafa- fioad, iti the
township of Saltfleet : it is A. considerable Village cpn-=
taining Several sjores and taverns, and surrounded by
large farms, witlr excellent bouses. From the sumtnit of
the mountain overhanging this village is a spleiidid and
most extensive prospect, perhaps as beautiful as can be
met with in Ganatla. The country both above and be-'
low the mountain extensively cultivated. A few miles
from Stoney Creek, on the mountain-, tovt'ards AnCastCfj
is the country known by the name of the Albion Mills^
in the township of Barton. These Millsafe turned by a
powerfiali creek which passes through a most romantic
ravine in* its' course to Burlington Bay There is a bujrn-'
ing spring in the beautiful woods extendingdown into the
valley. The farms round hefe are large, well cleared*
in high GHltivation, with good houses,,orchards, barns^^and
stock. It is the nearest route ff om the Western^ Distlrict- ,
to Lundy's Lane,, by Smithyille on the Twenty Mile
Creek; — when the new bridge is corapleted'r ©Vel' the
Grand River at Cayuga, the route from the wesfjto- Nias;

WP?5U C^NAftA. ^1%.
gai*a, Will be rendered still much better and shorten
Perhaps in Upper Canada tfeefei&not to be met with
so beautiful and highly cultivated a district as tha|t lying
immediately between Burlington Bay 9ind the p,uildajiS
Street at Nelson. The fields are large at\d level, divested
<>f stiimps V the soil very superior., bearing the, most lux
uriant crops of grass^ clover, and corn ; the farra-hpiises
are gox)d, substantial brick buildings, with dairies and
cellars attached ; aiid the orchards are stocked with the
choicest fruit trees. The ride from McNab's mansion ori
Burlington Heights to Nelson, by this fputej, would well
repay any lover of agi^icultural, beauty and fine scenery
for their trouble. Two new villages have been laid put
on the lake road to Toronto, beyond Wellington Square,
between it and Oakville, — the one by Mr- Kerr'Sj called
Port Nelson, yet in its infancy, but a few houses ha^iag
been erected, and a small clearing in the vi^oads made : —
the other at the mouth of the Twelve Mile Creekj, very
prettily situated, containing many houses,, a tavern, ma-^
ny more in course of erectipn, and snrrounded by large
and well cleared farms,
WELLINGTON SQUARE
Is built at the exti'eiiiity ofthe bCaCh stretching betvveen
Burlington Bay and the Lake : there is deep water to
the shore ; the Burlington Bay Canal passes through this
tjeach, connecting Ontarip with Hamilton and the West.
There are several large stores and houses,, and an excel
lent tavern in this village : a very neat Episcopal church
has. been erected, surmounted by a lofty white spire, seen
at a considerable distance, and imparting that charming
character to a village scene, so pleasing to the loverS ot
rural beauty. The rpad tp TorpntP passes, thrqi^gh this
village, Port Nelson, and by the Twelve Mil# Cfegfe t«t,
28

1413 urpEft CASAO*,
OAKVILLE,
which owes its prosperity, nay its existence to the p&ttU
otic and indefatigable exertion of Colonel Chisholm, one
of the present members of the House of Assembly, for the
county of Halton. It is very pleasamly situated on a
beautiful level, about thirty feet above the Lake; which
it fronts, — it is directly at the mouth of the Sixteen Mile
Creek, which forms a safe and commodious harbour,where
several schooners and steamboats have been built. The
village has increased so rapidlvy that it now extend* acros*
the Creek, — it was formerly on the left bank, — a goocJ
draw-bridge is erected over it. The following account
of this flourishing village was madein February last.
The past six raonths has witnessed the erection ofa very handsome'
Methodist Church, to which the addition ofa spire not only adds to ti.e
elegance ofthe building but makes it an ornament lo the town^ In
deed we have frequently anticipated the pleasure of viewing from the
deck of the Oakville on her way to Toronto the vast improvement to
the interesting appearance of the town which the church and its
spire raust create. Building has not however been confined to the
church. We have noticed the erection of several new houses and ad
ditions made to the others. Among tbelatter we cannot but partieu-*
larly remark the additions to appearance and comfort of the Oakville
House. Of this house His Excellency our new Governor, we under
stand, waspleased during his short stay in town, to observe that it
was the best tavern he had been in since he left albany.
The establishment of a -post-ofEce has conferred upon the town, a
means of holding communication with the world without which no
l^lace can prosper. Two considerable stores have been opened and
report bids us hjok forward to the opening of others during the current
,year. < The Weighing Machine, erected in Mary street, although not a
conspicuous otgeet, has nevertheless been a great convenience to the
town, and advantageous to the neighbourhood.
The note of preparation for building during the coming spring, we
are happy to say is sounding. Messrs. Watson and Hopkirk have
%«g&Rthe cellars for their intended brewery, and tha Rev. Joseph Mwt

UPPER CANADA. 219
is preparing for the erection of his dwelling. These works are upon
the west side of the Creek, and will doubtless prove the commence-
ment of a rapid extension of our town in that quarter.
-¦ The Governraent Steam Dredging Machine was built in our ship
yard, under the contract of D. S. Howard Esq., from the States.— r
This employed raany hands during the winter, and by the prompt
weekly payment ofthe men, made no slight addition to the circulating-
medium. Although fhe intended dam across the creek is not yet in progress^
creditable report induces us to believe, that ere long we shall have
the satisfaction of announcing that, this vast improvement to our town
is in progress. When this undertaking with the nijlls to be erected up-
on i^ are completed,, it will impart a fresh impulse to our advancement
and of which the intended improvements ofour excellent harbour will
enable the town to reap the full benefits.
Durangthe progress of these outward signs of advancement,' we-
have observed that other and less conspicuous concerns have receiv
ed theattention of our fellow townsmen. A very considerable sub
scription has been entered into towards the salary of a presbyterian
clergyman to officiate in this town and neighbourhood,— not onr
Jy will this be a spiritual benefit to the community, but occasion the e-
rection ofa presbyterian chuqch, to add to the number of our public,
buildings. The population of Oakville is upwards of 300. ^,-i/
DUNDAS.
The village pf Dundas, npw abput tp be incorporated,
is situated in a most picturesque ravine, between the op
posing mountains of Ancaster and West Flamboro', front
ing a luxuriant valley, through which the Desjardins canal
passes, connecting it with the waters of Burlington lake.
This village, though situated more advantageotlsly, both
for external commerce and internal communication, than
any other place at the head of lake Ontario, has not ad
vanced with nearly the same rapidity, with other places,
possessing not a tithe of the same natural advantage^
which appertain to Dundas. Now, however, that the
corapletion of the Canal is determined upon, the money
obtained, aud the expenditure confided to active individ-i

UPPER CANAtJA.
tials residing in the village, and intei^s'ted in its welfare;
it is to be hoped that its commercial enterprise will meet
with no further impediment. ' A delightful stream of wa-r
teir, running from the Flaraborp' nioutitain, and supplying
the very extensive works of tbe 'Hon. Jas. Crooks, called
the Darniey Mills, consisting of ^i:ist-milis, paper mills,
distillery, &c, and other mills on its route, passing through
the beautiful grounds of Dr, Hamilton, where it rushes;
over a ibpld, rocky pwecipice nearly IQQfeet in depth, into
a rich wocxJland glen, then supplying m-ore mills, aind
continuing its Course through Duftdas, where it ultimately
empties itself into the basin at the head of the canal. The
streams from the Ancaster mountain are also received into
tbe same canal, after pu^rstiiiig their tortuous windings
through s0me e>xqtiisite meadows belonging to Binckley, «i
tann-er. DiindaS itself has surprisingly improv^ed during
these last three years — many largo stone and biick b
ings having been erected within tbat period. The Ca-,
tholic Church with its white spire, surmounted by the
holy symbol of ttoe Christian faith, forms an interesting
object, seen as it is froni all the high grounds around the
yillage. The Presbyterian;, Episcopal, Md Baptist -0On-^
gcegations make use, alternately, of a small free Church
in the village, but this scandalous opprobium is likely soph
to cease, as the members of the -Scotch aad Eiu^lish
churches are about ^rectiri^g separate places pf worship for
themselves. The grounds of George Rol|}h, Esq. in the
very centre of Dundas, are mtremely beautiful, finely^
tisuibered,^ presenting the appearance of a noble park ; a,
^landsome terrace ,of the richest verdttre extends across
them,. overlooking the whole village, at the iback of which
»t a little distance is a bold range of moutiifains, almost
perpendiGt|lar, beautifully vt^ooded, occasionally iote»seot-j
'?*i.>l^ €':^*®®^ aR4J9i?mi«ig a »Qble «an^pai-,t an4 sewetv

¦¦>

BPPER CANADA. 22^1
from the north. The entrance tp his demesne is particu^-
larly striking, frora the lofty iron gates, handsotwely fin
ished, enclosed and surrounded by walls of fine free stone
fesembliTig, and quite worthy the entrance to a noble-^
Plan's mansion. Indeed there is notliing I have seen or
heard of, like it in America— but oh ! what a disappoint
ment, -^splendid as is the entrance, it is like that inen-
tioned in Goldsmith's Citizen ofthe World, " a splendid
(entrance into nothing." I believe, however, that it is
Mr. Holph's intention to build a stone bridge, and ultim
ately a stone mansion in a corresponding style of magnfl-
Cence— if so, it will be an honour and an ornament to the
country. In the grounds^ of this gentleman is a saline
spring, just in rear of his oflrce, near the brow of the'
mountain, I am satisfied frora its strength, that any quan
tity of salt could be manufactured on the flats below, by
solar evaporation. The water is quite as powerful as any
of the waters at the various salt works to be met with in
the State of New York. There are abundance of storesj
several taverns in this town, and much bus-iness is transu
acted. Indeed during the winter season whilst the sleigli-^
ing lasts, it isa curious and gratifying scene, to witness
the trains of sleighs -conveying produce to this market,
from the 'flourishing and fertile township of Waterloo,
Dundas is in the extensive County of Halton. The road,
called the Governor's Road, fron Toronto 'to the London
and Western District, passes through Dundas ; the descent
from the mountain at East Flamboro' to Dundas is gradu
al, and through a richly cultivated and picturesque coun-^
tty ; the road then continues between the Ancaster and
Flamboro' mountains to Paris, a village on the Grand
river, over which a bridge has been erected, and from
ihence lo London. The country on the Dundas Street,
between the village and TorootOj is generally well settled.

222 UPPER CANADA.
At East Flamboro' there is a small settlement called Wa-
terdown — some mills, houses, and taverns.. A. Fergusson
Esq. of Woodhill, has a large farm near it, beautifully
situated, commanding some most extensive views, richly
varied with wood, water, hill, and valley. Indeed it is
diflScult to do justice to the beautiful country seen from
his residence, extending towards Niagara, and embracing
a view of the lakes, and Ancaster mountain ; its waters,
woods, verdant hills, the numerous and most beaudfii)
orchards pf apples, pears, plums, and peaches— ^and cf the
glens which lead from the hills down to the creeks, ren
dering it the very perfection of rural scenery. At Nelson
there is a viUage, and houses and taverns along the road.
At Trafalgar another, and the streams passing through
these townships, in their course tp the lake, turn a great
deal pf machinery. WEST FLAMBOROUGH
The West Flamborough Mountain, a little more than a
mile from Dundas, has so many buildings now erected
on it, comtnencing from the tavern at one end, near Dun
das, and extending to the other extremity, where the roads
diverge, branching off" to Guelph, and Beverly, as tp give
it the character of a long straggling village. The situa
tion is very prominent and coraraanding, overhanging a
vast extent of country. The rich, smihng face of the val
ley lying between it and Ancaster Mountain, and stretch
ing towards the Grand River, is beautifully intersected
with farm-houses and [cultivated fields, in the midst of
woods. Towards the east, a long vista of woods is seen^
bounded by the mountain, extending towards Niagara: —
also the flourishing towns of Dundas and Hamilton in the
vale, with the glitteringcupola-of the court-house of the
latter, and the small lake, with the beach dividing it from
the large expanse of waters of Lake Ontario. The white

tPFEK CANABA. 5'2S
mists in the extreme distance, arising from the Falls of
Niagara, rolling and curling, in the most fantastic forms,
are frequently seen. The prospect this mountain com
mands, is most comprehensive, embracing a circuitous
sweep of very great estent. Tbe farms on it are large,
and well cultivated, with good orchards. The Hon. Jas.
Crooks has a number of mills and manufactories here: —
grist-mill, paper-mill-, oil-mill, saw-mills, distillery, and a
general store. The paper of ihis book was made in the
Hon. Mr. Crook's mills, called the Darniey Mills, and
being printed in this Province, the book is altogether
Canadian. His house is a large building, surrouuded
by a fine shrubbery, and excellent garden. Several gen
tlemen bave purchased farms around Flamborough during
the last, two years, and erected good substantial houses on
thera. Many village lots have been disposed of in front:
ofthe road, on which houses have been and are in prp-
gress of erection. There are also several taverns, as it
is the main road to Dundas, from Waterloo^ Dumfries,
Nichol, and Guelph. At the corner ofthe road leading:
to the raountain, and nearly at its summit. Dr. Hamilton-
has erected a large stone house, in a most lovely situa
tion, delightfully embosomed in trees,, ahd enclosed by
an excellent park fence. Itis within a hundred yards of
a majestic waterfall, rushing down a huge precipice intdl
a glen of exquisite beauty, and commands a noble view
of the lakes, and the extensive valley between it. The
hydraulic power on this, mountain stream is great, and
turns numerous mills. On or near the town line be
tween West Flamborough and Beverly, an Indian grave
ground has been discovered, and quantities of trinkets of
various sorts have been dug out, together with sculls,
bones, axes, tomahawks, &c. A curious tablet has also
beea found araongst the other, curiosities.

224 nfPEa eA.NA04.
ANCASTER
S,tand^ on an elevated position, pverlookinig the take, H
miles distant from Hamihon, S from Dundas, and IS from
Brantford, the road from the foi mer places, to the latter,
running through it. The country for miles round it, is
beautifully cleared, it having been settled for a length of
time. When Governor Simeoe, in February 1793, took
a tour from Niagara, then the seat of Government, to
Detroit, he returned by A»castei*i not at that time so call
ed, but to Wilson's Mills, the same now in possession of
Job Lodor Esq. :•— the log house still remains standing,
where he stopped on that occasion, clearly- demonstrating
that at that period, some improvements had commenced,
and that a portion, of the land in the vicinity was nndec
cultivation. The township was surveyed 41 years since,
the original inhabitants were chiefly Lower Canadian-s,
and there is in my garden a large poplar tree, that must
he of nearly 50 years growth, planted by the first settler^;
Until within these two years, it had rather retrogaded
than advanced, but tbe extensive property surrounding
the village, having been brought into the market, numer-'
ous lots have been sold, and it is once again flourishing
and active. It is finely watered by small, but never ceas-
iijg springs, of the purest water, and is deservedly cele
brated for its great salubrity. There are large flour raills,
a saw raill, a distillery, and a tannery in the village, which
is situated in the 2d concession of the township of Ancas-
tee. There are two churches, Episcopal and Presbyterian,
several neat houses, and raany fine, large, well cultivated
farms, in the immediate vicinity. A brick school-house
and library, is in progress of erection. A number of re
spectable families from Great Britain have settled in thi»
vicinity during these last three years, forming an pxcel-r
lent society. There is alsa a foundry, where ploughs*

UPPER CANADA. 22^
thrashing machines, &,c., are made. The roads about itj
iare very good, and frora the duratitin of sleighing last
Winter, between 13 and 14,000 saw-logs were.drawn in-i
to the various saw-mills, situated in this township. Be*
ing on the route from Niagara and Toronto, to the West-'
eru District, stages pass through it daily; and during
the season, the steamers are running on the Lake, extrli
Stages are established from Hamilton to Brantford, afford-'
ing every facility in travelling. Families arriving from
tireat Britaiui, to whora iraraediate settlement is not of
fetich ebnsequence, as one selected, would find it to their
jadvaritage to take a cottage in this village for a twelve
month, at a moderate rent, and survey the country leis
urely and niitiutely, previously to determining on a. farm
or habftation, as they would greatly prefer the quiet and
salubrity of a pretty village, to remaining in a crowded
town. Ancaster from its situation, its churches, its orCh-^
ards, mills, large farms, andcdinfortable farni-hduses, re
sembles an English village more than most places in the
Province ; but hei:e, as throughout the Country, there is
a want of finili,*the palings and fences are iraperfect, the
gardens-not well enclosed, nor the rustic character com
plete. It is however daily iriiproving.
The general character ofthe land throughout the toWri-^
ship.is gopd, ahd except immediately adjacent td thfe vill-^
age, the farms are riot very dear. V
GUELPIL
The village of Guelph stands in Ul very jjfomiiiteht sii-:
uation, built on five hills, beautifully watered by the rivei^
Speed, a branch df the Grand River, on an deviation of
800 feet above Lake Ontarip, extremely healthy, possess
ing saw-milte, grist-mills, tanneries, distilleries, and Otheji
manufactories ; a large and increasing populatidii ^ ae#
and superior hpuses in progress of erection ; an exeell#|il
39

226 WPKEtl CANADA^
iftarket house ; three well conducted taverns ; three large
and handsome churches ; and a schopl. Hpwever it may
suit the purppse pf grovelling malcontents, and brawling
grievance mongers to abuse, vilify, and misrepresent the
labpurs and exertions pf the Canada Cpmpany, it was
iuainly owing to their zeal, enterprize, and assiduity that
the Province became so much^ settled ; they were the
means of diffusing a more accurate account of Canada a-
mongst the British people, and giving a tone to emigra-'
tion, of which it formerly stood so much in need.
This vicinity is greatly celebrated for the quantity and
quality of Barley grown, — and sleighs well laden with it,
are brought during the winter months to the respective
breweries for sale.
The road between here and Gait seems particularly a-
dapted for barley, — the clover crops looked very luxuri
ant, — itis bBautifullj watered with never failing streams.
Some person inimical to Guelph had described it as a
failure : how far it is to be considered so, let the follow
ing staternent, from a resident, decide : —
"Iff the first place the emigrant is told that " Guelph is a failure."
How far this is consistent with truth will be seen by the improvements
Qow making both in the town and neighbourhood. During the pasf
year no less than 16 frame and 2 brick houses made their appearance
in our streets, and there.are at present two large taverns in progress, a
chapel, and 7 or 8 frame houses building or contracted for in the lowrr, .
and building of all sorts and descriptions daily rising out of the wood,'
, if I may use the expression, in the country. Almost the whole ofthe
land that is at all available is disposed of, aud is under cultivation and
fettled On, with the exception I believe of from 2 to 3,000 acres out of
<t8,000 ! which compose thetownship, with a large and daily encreasing
proportion of Town Lots, also disposed of and built upon. We have
hreweries and distijleries, who give us the highest market price, for our
Kiain iq cash. Stores, 7 or 8 in number, hotels, taverns, watchmaker,
-Hf^ifpr, dhairmaker, and mechanics of every description' : so much ibir
*^felph b*ing a failure."

UPPER CANADA. 227
The stump remains, careiuUy guarded, of the first tre^
which was cut down on St.George's day, April 23, 1827,
now nine years since, and really wheq any person surveys
the country — then a dense forest, raost heavily timbered*
now hundreds of acres well cleared and'cultivated, many
without a stump, all the appearances of well requited in-r
dustry around him, further improvements in contem-.
plation, property greatly enhanced in value — he is struck '
with astonishment at the surprising results of properly
directed exertion. The short road from Dundas to
Guelph, by the mills of Mr. Crooks of West Flamborougb
is through a dense pine wood, extensive cedar swamps,
with very few clearings until within seven or eight miles
of Guelph : it is but 24 miles, admirable travelling when
frozen up in winter, but almost impassable in the spring
and autumn months, and but little iraproved in the midst
of suraraer. The horrible causewayed roads, raost clum
sily put together, and occasionally broken, renders the
more circuitous route by Gait far preferable. The exten
sive log house built by Mr. Gait is now occupied by Mr.
Strange : it is a capacious buildingj tastefully finishe d in
the Swiss style, far superior to the generality of log build
ings. It is surrounded by a fine garden well planted and
laid out, at the extreraity of which the river Speed pursues
its course. The Catholic church stands in a most com
manding situation, at the summit of ^ hill, the view from
it ofthe surrounding country of Eramosa, Puslincb, ^Gar
afraxa, Stc is extensive, beautiful and varied. Guelph is
a very dry and' healthy situation ; there are two ha-idges
over the river Speed, one at each extremity of tbe village^
The Episcopal church possesses some claim to elegance:
it is built in the Gothic style, and of stone, the interior is
handsome. This village may justly claim the character
of being more exclusively British, than almost anjr oth^r,

228 UPPER C.4KADA.
in the Province. The Gore District Agricuhnral Society
has many warm supporters at Guelph. In the towoshi/k
of Puslinch there arc several lakes — and towards the town-.
sliip of Nassagaweya, some extensive p.Kairies. The town
ship of Eramosa, at tire back of Guelph, is rapidly
settling— rthe land is fine and clieap, the roads are good^
find there are numerous streams of waten About sixteen
miles from Guelph is the nevv settlement of
NICeOL,
Mr. Fergusson visited Canada in 18^^, and feelmg- satisSed witl^
the prospects ofindependence which itafibrded to ind-ustrious agriciiK'
lural senlecs and to raoderate capitalists fond of ruural pursuits, he re-.
turned, to^ the Upper Province in l83-3»; bringing witli. him six sons,^
•whom be intepded to settle in tbe country, .^s the formation ofa set
tlement, in ^hich so many of his own familv -were to reside, was the
leading object, Mr. F. naturally turned his atlentioijin the first place
tp a faeakhy district, and finding the township of Nichol to be in s
teost salubrious climate, with a rich soil, and abundance of pure wa-.
ter, he purchased about 8000 acres vpo.n the (xrand River, intersected
by a small branch of the same stream, having also a valuable wafer
power, at the little Falls. A village named Fergus was laid out, up
on a beautiful slope, adjoining the Falls, and. operations conMnence*
upon the 20ih December, 1833. A young ftieiul who accompanied
^r. F. from Scotland and who is now associated with him ia the con-.
cem, took up his residence at Fergus, and a most respectaitle Scotch,
farmer, who had resolved to cast his lot, wherever Mr. F. might fix,.
made tha first purchase and prepared to clear his !and. A saw-mill
was soon erected, a bridge thrown across the river, a tavern burit, aud
preparations made to erect agrist-nEiill, a church and school house, all
of which are now completed in the most satisfactory manner. Roads,
were also cut out and a bridge laid across tl>e Irvine, the small branch.
pf'the 'Grand, River, about three mjles back from the village. Mr. F.
has disposed of about 5,000 acres within two years, to 38 individuaLs, '
all of whon* are in every- way respectable, and indeed no temptation,
i^ill induce Mr, F. to admit any person of doubtful character as a set
tler, either upon lands or village lots. The settlers are of two classes^
from the old cpuntrj', namely, farmers and substantival mechanics, of
superior education, industrious and willing to encounter some hard-
^i^ and privations, {or the attainment of that comfort and infepead^-

ypPER CANADA. 229
ence which the change oftimes at home, seemed to deny them. They
pre all engaged in clearing their lands, building, &c., and seem to be
perfectly ?atisfied with their prospects. About 450 acres are at this
date, (February, 18-36,) cleared and in course of clearing for next sea-
sou, and Mr. 0uist, (lie flrst settler, has raised and sold 26J bushels of
wheat per acre, estimating his loss from the singularly unfavorable
sCasoniat I| bushel per acie. Even as it is, Mr. B. has paid the
price of his land, $4 per acre, cleared and fenced it $1,6 per ?icre, and
has 32s 6d per acre besides, to meet the cosjt of seed, harrowing i^,^
harvesting, and thrashing. Mr., '&^ sold his wheat at 5s. per bushel.
The village contains about twenty houses, and is increasing with
eonsiderable spirit. A good stare .has beenopened, a brewery com-
pienceij, and, io a few vireeks a post-office will be established. The
church, which is in connection w.ith the established church of Scat-
land, has not yet been, provided with a pastor, but from the arrange-^
ments now in progress, it is hoped that the deficiency will ere long be
supplied. The church and schoolhouse have been built solely at Mr.
Fergusson's expense and he jnteiwls that the choice of the clergyman-
and teacher shall rest with the heads o,f families in eoramunion with
thechu.rch. Itis intended that a comfortable house and glebe shall,
he provided for the incumbent, with the produce ofthe pews,, (seats for
§00,) and such government allowances as may be procured, and in
this way it is hoped that the evils of clericq^l infiuence upon the one
hand, and, of unworthy subserviency an the other, may be in some.
^neasure, if not altogether, avoided. ,
A library for the use of the settlers,- has also been commenced and
placed under the charge ofthe schoolmaster, who lately opened hia,
school.
GALT
Is a very pretty village, situated on both, sides of the
Grand River — they are connected together by a bridge^
and the slopes, to the summits of the batiks, covered with
good buildings, renders the site very picturesque, Mr^
Shade has a fine stone house immediately on the banks of
the river, and Mr.. Dickson a good house on the opposite
?ide. The ride from Brantford, through the village of
Paris, to this place, is beautiful^ and the road'extremely
good. Thereare several large mills and\m§mufactories<
hercr-T-tvvo churches, a schqol, and taverns. The country

230 UPPER CANAlJA.
around is covered with pine trees of small growth, and
some fine cedars skirting tbe river. There are several
small but beautiful lakes in this neighbourhood, in which
there is a great abundance offish. The cholera, in 1834,
made dreadful havoc in this village — it has now recovered
from its effects, and is in a very flourishing state. It is
about 18 miles from Guelph and from Brantford- Be
tween Gait and Brantford, numerous settlers from Great
Britain have taken np their location, vt-ithia these 2 years
past, mainly owing to the indefatigable exertions of Sir
John Colborne, in procuring good and valid titles for the
Indian property. The road to Brantford is along the
Grand river, presenting a succession of most agreeable
and picturesque scenery — there is no fiine timber, chiefly
dwarf oak, with underwood, and occasional spots of pine.
An abundance of wild roses grow on the banks of the
river. The country through which the road runs is a
succession of gentle swells.
PRESTON.
Three miles from Gait is the new, but very fiourish
ing, village of Preston, standing in a delightful situation,
and containing some large stone buildings, and very ca
pacious stores. Two churches are about to be erected in
it, and it seems as ihoiigh it would become a place of bu
siness and importance.
BERLIN.
In the township of Waterloo is. the village of Berlin al
so flourishing, in the heart of one of the best cleared and
cultivated townships in the Province. A newspapilr in
the German language is printed in this place.
f'This villsyge, which has risen into existence within the last,-two or
three years, already numbers many industrious mechariicS-sr^Hcli as a
Mack-smith, carpenters and cabinet-makers, wheel-wright and cbajf-
msker, hatter, waggon-makera, potter, saddle and harness^wiakcr, «ia-j

UPPER CA^'ADA. 251
Son, slvoc-makefs, tailors, coverlet and stocking weaver, grocery and
dry goods store, two taverns, a book-bindery and also a printing office ;
and the neighbourhood is densely populated, mostly by wealthy farm
ers. There are grist and saw-mills, &c. in the immediate vicinity.
On the road to Paris in the township of Dumfries, there
is a new village called St. George, in which great activi
ty is at present prevailing ; it has several stores and a
post-oflice. The surrounding country is well cleared and
fertile, particularly in the vicinity of the
JERSEY SETTLEMENT,
Well known and highly spoken of, for its locality, healthiness, good
soil, as also good roads. If nothing here induce you to settle, although
Imuch think you would find something, contiuue along the Governor's
Road, five miles further, then at Froman's corner take the right hand
road for St. George. Let this be your resting place awhile, for here
you will meet with some de.sirable properties. The village at present
is small, but thriving, and must thrive from its situation. It contains a
grist mill with great capabilities, and from being worked by water ori
ginating from springs, its supply is both constant and regular, and as
it never fails in sumraer, nor freezes in winter, farraers from a distance
are obliged to have recourse to it, when the operation ofthe mill in their
own vicinity, is checked by either drought or frost. These are great
advantages recollect, situated as it is, in the heart of a wheat growing
country. I understand it has lately been purchased by two enterpri
sing young men, and as they are desirous of accommodating the farmer,
as well as benefitting themselves, it is thought, they will succeed.—'
Should they read this, they will see that I wish them, what I wish all
good subjects who emigrate to this country, success in their new under
taking. There is also a saw-mill, distillery, two general stores^. PP?t-
office, blacksmith shop, wheelwright, shoemaker, tailor, an h!||!^^J
school, and though last not least, a church. There are residiflg^Jjt^Ai^-
village, two medical men whose professional , duties I should im^n^'
are not arduous, not from want of skill, but because the neighbourhood
is too healthy. This is a fine section of the country ; the soil is-gen-
erally allowed to be prodtictive, and easy of tillage, certainly two very
great accommodations. The-roatJs- are good, and as your wants [if not
too extravagant] can be all supplied at the village, so also can you dis.-
pose of your produce. Your access to market then is easy. Ybu will
find Ihat this portion ofthe country, is superior. to others, inasmuch as

UPPgli CAJfAOA.
you are enabled to locatf on cleared land, with a sraall capifal. tts siti*
ation being high it is superior for its salubrity. Itis superior in tlit
growth of wheat and clover, and is not inferior in locality. , -^
July 2d^836, I, rode to, and from, Guelph, by tlVe short
t-pad from Dundas,: and was absolutely amazed at the
improvement which had taken place in eighteen months j
the extent of clearings the humber of new arid comfora-i
ble log houses erected on the route, particularly through
the township of Puslineh, and the general improvement
ip-the country. There is an excellent inn kept by Mr.
Black, which I can recommend vVith great confidence and
satisfaction, for the attention paid to* travellets, the exceU
lenceofJts accoinmictdation and the moderation of its
charges. He has named it New. Berwick*
BRANTFORD
Is a l^rge and and very iloupshing village, sitiiafed dn st
$ne plain, high arid dry, and overlooking the Grand Ri
ver, over vvhich a bridge has been erected; It takes its
name from -the celebrated Indian Chief, of the Mohawk
tribe, John Brant, Esq. Since the surrender of the lands
sur/ounding this village, and those forming the townships
t)f.Cayiig.aa and Dunn, by the Indians, and the naviga
tion of the Grand River been coinpleted, Brantford has
most rapidly increased, and now coniains^everal church
es, schools, manu^cctories, stores, mills, and many excel-
Jipt private dwelling hotises.
- ^^W^s'^%^^ee been fa,vere4.Wi*hth'e^|e^s»i^MtJr town, no* amounting
to iiOO iriih'&bitadts, a{id'i»?|iTfjsh" in three'- years, -.of

'^iii'ch' tbis^'affijrdfe'ftiuet^e pactiefpr^tedniiby all interested in the neighs
iii(^fHo.63,''* In a- counti'y likethis,-.J)apulation is wealth, and-if we pro-^
Cteed^for the-next three year^, and;it is to be hoped we- shall, with the
.saaSe rapidity as'for'the last,v we shall bid fair to ^standi forth as one of
^le&regtdbitLlEtofthe'Froviiice. Que peisitioBfjfcir heSfeh and fertility %

toppisR cInada. SM
ISoi to ba Surpassed, and oijr opening navigation vi'ill afford such facili
ties as well for the expert 6f otir produce ds for thfe imporfation frotri
'dtlier countries, that the agriciilturuist and t'he merchant rilay look for
ward io a prosperity that caandt fdil to be attendant ba industry .and
fenergy."
¦ _A great influx of British settlers have purcliased the
lands on both sides Of the river, extehdiilg to Paris, and
preparing to erect tlieir houses bri the ntost favored and
picturesque sites; In connection with niy account ofthis
Village, 1 intended to give the particulars of two visitsj
hi^de during, the winter to the Indian villages of the Mo-
iiawk dnd T'usCarora tribes, in company with two StJotcH
'gentlemen, possessiiig considerable property near An-
Ijaster. Ffdiri its length I have transferred it to tlje
Appendix, under the head, df Indians. The sleigl|ing
vyif so excellent, that vt'e performed the joiirney, digh-
-te^h mi-lWs, in tvVo hOurs. The country along the Md-
hamk i^oad has irafiroved very greatly during these lasl
tihred years : it runs through a pine swatnp .for many
iriilel, the labolir of clearing which must have been ex^
CeSsive, as the profusion of Miniips' demonstrate. Thd
toad jn Summer is frequently in a wretched state, but
^dine spirited individuals have manifested a disposition
td inijlrove it, and it is likely to become a good tunipike
i'oad Being the main western road, arid the imniediate'
route t'O^ thfe most fertile district in the Province, frdimthe
head of Lake Ontario, riothirig can retard its prosperity
and improvement, but apathy, or prevent its becoraing
one-of the most interesting and important portions ofthe
Country.' The land on both sides of the road, after pass-
•irig through the ridges of pine, not very deep, is ofthg
most excellent quality, and some of the native farmers
'taise prodigiotfs crops of vi'heat, oats, buckwheat, and In
dian corn. There are large, bearitiful, and i^ESctcrisavf?
^teeaddws'in the route, with firie streariis of living watlif^
30

234 upFiR canaita.
running through them, to their debouchure in theGfttnd
River. The greater portion of the road passess through
the township of Ancaster. About six miles from the vill
age of Ancaster, and midway between Hamilton and
Brantford, and Dundas arid Braii-tfordv is one of the best
taverns on theroute, kept by Mr. Henry Odell, who ia
also a very extensive farmer. Exeellet>t aecoramodatioB,
great attention, and moderate charges are sufficient re-
coinrae»datioos; they are all to be raet with at this inn.
AGRICULTURAL SOCIETIES.
There are many of these societies now established in
fhe Prtvinee ; -besides the one for the General Home;
District, there is also one for Ore, Orilla, Simeoe; and
Thorah, — one in the London District,-^0ne also in the
¦C^ore District, first proposed by Frederick Suter, Esqf, of
Oak wood, at the annual dinner of the sons of St. An
drew, since' matured and carried into operation, having
the Hooi'J«ames Crooks of West Flamborough, President,^
!-smd Dr. William Craigie of Ancaster, Secretary. It has
^hiad shows for cattle, at Hamiltoi^, Nelson, Brantford, arid
-Giuelph. It has many hundred subscribers, honorably
'emulating and vieing with each other in the attainment
of a|^icultural perfection, and meeting and mingling to
gether as old and new settlers, and cherishing feelings of
individual and mutual regard. Mr. Fergusson is deserv
ing 0/ great credit for the altentipn he has bestowed and
:^the pains he has taken in the introduction of better breeds
-of cattle: the cows on his farm are tbe finest I ha,ve seen
feitfce' Province : a good deal of white in their colour,
shorthorns, straitback, just like tbose in the Holdern ess-
Country of Yorkshire. The cows, generally roBmiing a-
bout the country as free commoners, are swag-backed,
ebeif tails t^Hck arid rough, pin-haunched, their heads
tf^aBCt^ir faties broad» ribs flat, and ho^ns thick audi

UPPER CANADA. 233
loBg. His Durham OX is a picture, a model of these
beautiful cattle : short horns, strait back, a taper neck, ve
ry stnall in proportion where it joins on the small and
handsome head, deep dewlap, sraall boned in the legs,
hoop ribbed, square hipped, and tail Mender. I believe
Mr. Ferguson uses turnips as a winter food. Frederick
Suter, Esq., whose farm is worthy the inspection of any
lover of agriculture, and. ,^shonld have been seen, by all
means, by Mr. Illinois Sheriff of Mungo's Park, has cul
tivated the turnip most successfully. On his farfflj ' he
has large and beautiful fields of turnips of both kinds,
sowed in rows with intercultivation, and cei-teiinly pre
senting as luxuriant a growth as could be seen. He bas
also raised, large quantities of barley, the grain bright and
heavy. ,H. P. Simmons, Esq., of Ancaster brought from
England last year some ofthe Dishley breed of sheep : —
they are as beautiful as imagination could mal^i them, —
round and loaded with flesh, and will if generally en
couraged, produce quantities of fine mutton, and bales of
fine wool. He also brought out the thin rhined Norfolk
hog, the most perfect picture to be seen : they become fat
®n an V kind of food, and without anv trouble.
The Gore District returns five members to the ^^Biise
of Assembly. ^ ^ "
THE LONDON DISTRICT, ' ••;*
Lying to the west of the Gore District, stretches also
north and south from the north shore of Lake Erie, to
the southern extremity of Lake Huron. Indepen^iitly
of its large water fronteir on the two lakes, it is intersect
ed by fhe rivers Tharaes, Ouse, Aux Sables, and Mait
land. 4 P^ps'' P^'J'^tS''^ *" London speaks thus of this
District: — " ^^"i. < '
Possessing, as this District does, a vast-trx^.of unoccupied territory, f
of t-ran^sBendant e^cdlency ofsoil— nsnjoying a cli|tfate admirablj-aida|i- •,

236

BPEER CANABA.

ted to aid the labtmr of the agriculturist— a territory whose fre^ an^
^hilirating air alike forbids the apprpach of pestilence and famine^
it only wants a population, proportionate to its extent of soil^ to render.
its situation enviable beyond that of any people on earth. Enjoying
all thfe blessihgs bf the British Constitution — ^^sUbject to pq grievoug
Tythe system— called upon for no taxe?, beyond what i^ barely neces
sary for the administration of justice, and the promotion of intei-nal im,-
provent: it needs only the aid qf that powerful engine, the Pre^s, to,
spread throughout the, world a knowledge of its situation, and invite,
from ever;^, nation, the industrious and^enterprising, whp. m.ay frora|
necessity, or inclinatipn be compelled or inclined to aband.on the homes
of their fathers: Feeling this, to be its situation, and anxious to see
th^ whole wilderness converted i,n,to, stniling fields, and the abode of-
^he wolf, and the haunt ofthe savage, become the asylums of- the sons,
ajqd dayighters of liberty and civilization, we^-have determined, by the.
e^tablishmeiitofa Press in London, t& contribute, our mite toward thet
attaitimept of those ejids. We are by birth, by education, frorn reaspn^^
^fid frotn rejection, attached firmly and unalterably to tbe British con
stitution, and epjoying it as we dp here, stripped of its most bbj,e.ctipn-
able branches, idetermined ever to support i.t — ever to live under it—?
and if it fall— which Heaveii forbid— to fall manfully,' fighti,ng in itst
defence. COUNTY OF niIDDI,.ESEX.

Townsbipa. CuUivated acres.

Uncultivated acres.

Assessment,

Population.

Aldborough,

2,098

9,035

£6,282

59^

Ekfrid,

1,205

13,165

5,303

481

Malahide,

8,071

^4,275

27.120

2,150

pelaH^;
por^Ver,

: 670 685

5,186 8.416

4,646
4,500

279;448,

! ieibo,
'. iayham,

2,221

17', 160

8,651

675

5,490

31,067

26,322

2,131

Adelaide,'

1,638

39,4S4

12,120

935

CarafloG,

2,944

13,394

'8,092

568

gouthwold,

11,208.

38,2^8 '

32,46a

1,631'

London,

11,866

?4,I38,

39,209

3,533

Tovvn of London,

63

16

8,599

1,03^

Yarmouth,

10,825

37,960

38,296

3,468

Dun^yich,"

2,864

24,869

13,163

616

Westminster,

0,T77

32,180

23,229

l,875t

Mosa,

^,408

15,776

7,357

-.. 737-

COUNTY qp 0;!^POIID.

*i

Derehaio,

1,179

9,526

4,903

461

}aklanil,

3,781

5,9J4 ,

7,875

537

*fifeBourf,

2;626

19,342

d,659

84f

Norwich,

7,200,

32,600

26,448

2^

UPPER

CANAD^.

23

l^orra,

4,272

36,200

18,595

2,018

glandford,

301

4,267

3,400

381

pienheini,

3,890

13,551

13,397

1,0 1 g

East Oxford,

2,093

9,222

7,819

739

\ifest Oxford,

4,727

18,473

19,473

1,351

Purford,

7,480 COUNTY OE

21,452
' NORFOLK.

20,«4d

1,41?

pharlptteville,

8,470

20,860

25,700

1,564

Windham,

5,556

l2,654

14,138

951

Middleton,

1,185

9,925

"5,847

405

plough tpn.

514

3,355

1,795

190

Walsinghatn,

3,095

8,698

12,000

886

Townsend,

10,465

26,617

30,310

1,919

Woodhouse,

7,194

15,137

^3,752

1,414

Horses, 4,963— Oxen of four year old and upwards, 7,272-:-MilcF(
fows, 13,720— Horned Cattle, from 2 ta 4 years old/ 5,410.
LQNPON,
This town is beautifully situated on the north bank of
;he Thames, and is the capital of the District. Governor
Simeoe predicted as far back as, 1793, that it would be
come, someday, a place of great magnitude and import
ance; the north and west branches of the Thames unite
,^ here ; it stands on an elevated and commanding situa
tion and has roads to .Goderich — to St. Thoraas, and tgt
Sandwich. The following account is fron^ the Freernan'a, '
Journal : — :
The To-vynship of London was settle^ in the year 1818, andms it*
^rst settlers were perspns fijr whom the Editor's Father obtain«Hrron;
the British Government free grants of land, and a free passage to Mojt-'
treal, we h,ave had amore than ordiqary opportunity of formihgan ao-r
curate judgment of the propriety ofthe ,plan which we recommend — ;
scarcely an individual who accompanied Mj*. Talbot to this country
was possessed of naore than £100, sincj rtiany pn their arrival in thia
township had not more than £50; yet of all thase persons there is
sesroely one that is not -now wholly in.d«pendent-?^in the possession of
fine ^rins, of an, abundance of stock, and in the enjoyment of all the
coniforts.andmany. of the luxuries of life. The Township of London in,
1829, 7 years after its settlement; contained a population of 2415 souls.
It contained at that time 5941 acres of cleaned land, 135 horses, 552,
pxen, 965 cows, 2 merchants shops, 3 saw-mills, S^^grist-mills, }2 framed
^^uses under two stories, and 3 two story houses. '

238 UPPER GANAi^A.
The population is now 5051, including the Town— the number of acres
of cultivated land 12841— the number of horses 514, oxen 726, cows
1531, young horned cattle 565, mechanics shops 8, saw-mills 6, grist
mills 5, frame houses under two stories 146, two stories high 43.
The first house was built in the Town of London in the fall of 1827»
It now contains a population of 1246 souls, about 200 dwelling houses.
finished and inhabited, and nearly 100 frames not yet enclosed, some
of which have been put up this spring. The court-house, which is 100
feet long, 50 feet wide, and 50 feet high, has the best external appear
ance of any similar building in the Province. It has four octagoii tow
ers, one at each extremity, built somewhat in the Gothic style, the
principal windows are also Gothic. The court-room, for neatness and
convenience, is excelled by very few rooms appropriated to the same
purposes. There are also in the Town, 5 churches. Episcopal, Presbyterian,
Roman Catholic, Methodist, and Baptist. The Episcopal church, if
we except the spire, which is disproportioned to the siz,e of the tower,
is one of the finest, and certainly one ofthe neatest churches in tha
Province. We have a first rate Classical. and Mathematical School, conducted
bvMr. Wright, a. gentleman of unimpeachable character and high
literary attainments. We have also another boarding School for the
education of females, conducted by Miss Proudfoot, a lady of high ac
complishments-, and most respectable connexions. In addition to these
there are several well conducted male and female schools.
The streets, which intersect at each other at right angles, have been
greatapraproved within a year or two, and well constructed side-walks
have been njade in the principal ones, aud we have reason to believe
that before the elapse of the present summer we can fairly co.mpete
-with any Town in the Province in respect to our roads aridsidew-ajig.
Thereare nowwiihin (be limits of the Town 7 merchant's shops, 3^
milliners, 6 groceries, 3 drug stores, 2 provision store?, 7 licensed ta
verns, 2 watch-makers, 4 sadlers,, 3 blacksmith shops, one of which
has 9 hands, and five fires constantly going, 1 b/rewery, 2 distilleries, 1
metal foundry, 1 flouring mill, 2 saw-mills, 1 tannery, 2 bakery's, 3
cabinet-makers, 16 master carpenters, 1 gun-smith, 3 master painters,
4 waggon-makers, 8 tailors,; 1 tin-smith, 1 hatter, 6 shoe shops, 6 mas
ter masons and plaisterers, and a fanning-mill maker ; in addition to.
aU these Messrs. Strangman &,Hill are now erecting, in five minutes
walk ofthe town, a grijt-.mi.l|, intended for three run of stones, a fuHiBf '

PPTER CANADA. 3g£>
Bt&efiine, a carding machine, and turning lathes, which they expect Is
•have in full operation before the elapse of three months.
Taking a view of.the very great improvements made in this town,
and its vicinity, during the short period of the settletftent ofthe former,
we think we niay safely say that no town in British North America has
advanced so rapidly or can boast of a greater nuraber of ,i-espectable
families. The Thames is navigable for steam boats and schooners
lo Chatham 15 miles fi-om its embouchure and ^br small
boats nearly to its source. About eight miles from this
place is the Big Bear Greek which runs nearly parallel
with it. The. lands on its banks are of excellent quality,
the titnber lofty and majestic and ofthe most valuable
kind. It has several falls in Don, Brook, and on the 4th
concession of Zone, lot No. 48, there is a fine fall of 5
feet, from a lime-stone rock, the river being at least 6 rods
in width,
ST. THOMAS.
This village has become a place of considerable itriport-
ance within these last two years, — it is delightfully situa
ted on the elevated banks of Kettle Creek, 200 feet ia
heighth, in the centre ofa well settled country that can
vie with any portion of the Province in beauty and fer
tility. It contains many excellent houses, 12 stores,j|n tbe
branches of three banks, (Upper Canada, Comnierciat,
and Farmers,) the best cabinet ware-houses iu the Dis
trict, 3 churches, 2 mills, 2 breweries, 2 newspaper offi
ces, S well conducted taverns and a foundry. It is situa-
ted on the Talbot-street road, siarrounded by larg?, well
cleared and productive farms, good roads excelletit orch
ards and choice lands, with a population of 600 persons.
PORT STANLEY
Is situated at the termination of Kettle Creek at its junc
tion with Lake Erie, — it is admjrably selected for business
and a great deal is carried on, — it has a good hatbouPy

240 WPPER (CANADA.
well protected by large wooden piers jutting inib tM
Lake. From London to St. Thomas, a distance of 17
miles, and from thence to Port'TalBdt lO miles farther;
the coiintry is df the most pleasing character, fine undula
tions, plantations judiciously left, farms extensive anti
Well cleared, and orchards df the best descriptions of fruit;
Kettle Creek is a pretty stream, rendered more so frorri
the elevarion of its banks, — the water is deep but nar
row. Many persons, for the London, Western, and Hii-
ron Districts, come by this i'dute from Buffalo, the steam
boats on Lake Erie, stopping at this port; Between it
and St. Thomas, its waters supply several mills, manufac-
tori^Sj and other establishments, — the distance between
ihe two places is 8 miles. At the outlet of Catfish Creekj
a fide streamj there is also an harbour,^t is in th-e
township of Malahide, and close to Yarmouth, two fine
township's, both fronting Lake Erie, finely watered, well
supplied with mills for lumbering, affording excellent ad-
. Vantages for navigation,- timbered with the choicest pin^
and oak.
PORT BURWELL
Is a b'^iitifui little village, 7 miles from Talbot Road,
builf' at the outlet of Big Otter Crefek, on the shore of
Lsfke' Erie. It has a fine harbour, several stores, a good
tavern, many manufactories, and an elegant Episcopal
Church recently built : there are large mills at Vienna,
two miles a:bove it, on the Creek, carrying on a very ex
tensive business, ft has a bye post from Bayham on Ot
ter C/tiek, from which it is distant about 8 miles.
PORT TALBOT,
Well known as the residence of Colonel Talbot, who has
a house on a fine elevation of 100 feet above Lake Erie.
This gentleman has taken great pains to introduce some
Superior fruit, and has been successful, — his orchard is ex-

WriR feANAbA. 24i
tensive and wdll stocked with healthy irees. His farni
(displays a great want df taste and neatness, but is exten-
isiVely cleared,— th^ fencds dre slovenly; and the buildings
Wean arid discreditable. The stock dn his farm is of th^
best Quality. The soil is lOam artd iildy. He hSs been
most indefatigable in his efforts td settle this part of the
touriti^y aild has sticceeded ill his praisewdrthy endeav-
durs. Aldng the whole line df th^ shrire'"of Lake Eriej
Villages havebeeri formed,— the lake itself a Scene of love
liness;, the soil exuberaiitly fertile^ thfe streanis almost
burnberless falling into the take, arid the scitei usually se
lected for the fornlation ofa village, being thelt where the
^f^atest hydraulic power is td be found. The road frdni
fort Talbot rduiid the Lakg to AthHei'stbui'g iS 106 miles
through Aldbdro'i drford, Howard^ Eriiis, Romney,
Mercer, Gosfield^ and Coldhester, well Worthy df being
travelled. There is an exquisite bay in the township of
Harwicjh, ridt lihlike Biirlingtdri Bay, iial'ied Rondean : £i
'Vioieiit storm, this year, forced a passage thrdugh the
land, from the ddep water in the bay td the deeji Water iti
.the lake. Were acaiial or good rdad ndade froni thence
to the IldwaM Ridge settlement oii the Talbot Rdad, and
the dtitlet from th^ Bay td the Lake seciired, it wduld
faecdnie a place of great business and prove of incalcula
ble advaiitage to the settlers in this rich section of thd
province. This distance is but sixteen mil^s, and woultj
.feause a saving of 150 td rnai^ket.
• The Ta-lbot-Street Rdad is one df the best iri *Vb^ Prd-
A^incei— the Cdioiiel hdviilg made it a ccinditidn, with
feach settle!^ dii th^ route, that a chain in depth on eacH
Side of the l^oad, shodld be completely cleared^ that . it
toighi have the advantage of wind arid sun: The rciacl
tontiiiues through Delaware, where there is a stnalll. vill«
age situated .on the river Thames, ^v^r whitili thei;e is tl
31

^242 IfPPER CANADA.
bridge. The Thames itself is a delightfal river, about
forty yards vvide, and like the renowned one of that name
on whose mtyestic bosom the wealth, of nations rides,
it is "without over-flowing full>" being abundantly
supplied by numerous springs issuing from its banks. It
is navigable thirty miles from its mouth, for schooners and
-^team boats, and during the season, steamers touch at
Chatham. Various projects are in contemplation to con
nect London with Brantford, and thereby uniting the
Thames and Grand River, a plan so unquestionably be
neficial, as to induce the lovers of improvement to exert
themselves to carry it into effect. The alluvial flats along
this river are of the richest quality,— prolific in the ex
treme ; the soil in general is loam and clay — in some
parts the choicest sandy loam. The limber is of the
finest description of raaple, beach and oak.
The village of New Sarum, six miles eastof St. Thomas, fifteen from
London, and ten from lake Erie shore, is situated in the County of
Middlesex, on the Talbot load, through which daily stages pass; the
Niagara and Detroit Rivers Rail Road is expected to pass very near it,
the neighbourhood is thickly settled with respectable inhabitants, aud
the land is ofthe best quality and well watered. A large tract has been
laid out in Building Lots, with a reserve for a church, church-yard, and
Market square ; and on the whole, it may be pronounced one of the
most eligible, healthy and pleasant parts of Upper Canada. Thexe are
already a distillery, saw and grist-mills, a store, tavern, gun-smich, ma
chine maker, blacksmith, and wheelwright shop. There are several
dwelling houses now being erected, and the place has the advantage
of a lumber and biick yard. A tanner w^oul'd find it worth his notice,
and a pottery might be established, there being good clay for the pur
pose onthe land. There is a day school established in tbe village.,
Building lots are selling at a nominal price to immediate settlers.
VITTORIA
Is a small, neat village in the township of Charlotteville,
consisting of several stores, inns, a post-office, churckes,
school-house, and a population of nearly 300 persons. Iti

UPPER CANADA. 24S-
Charlotteville abundance of iron ore is met with, and
there are large iron works. It fronts upon Lake Erie and
lies nearly equidistant between Long Pointand PortDob-
ver. SIMCOE
Is a pretty thriving village in Woodhouse, with some e:?-
cellent taverns, stores, houses, and, a post ofli@e, and ap
plication has been made to make it the District Town of
a new District. Port Dover in the same township, is-
likely to become a place of some importance, especially
if the projected rail-road from Hamilton to it be proceed
ed with. It has a good pier and harbour and some en
terprize has already been exhibited. The township of
Woodhouse is finely watered by a small river called
Linn's River, or Paterson's Creek: during its prdgress
to Lake Erie it turns several raills and factories. There
are some extensive farms in this district, termed the Long
Point settlement, — che orchards are excelletit, the soil is
dry and sandy, but very prolific notwithstanding ; rind
it is in the immediate vicinity of inexhaustible quarries of
gypsum. The roads are very good. Long Point Bay is
forraed ofa long strip of sand, having a slight bend, and
of forty miles extent, stretching into the lake. During a
violent gale in the fall of 1834 a channel was forced
through the bank near the shore, and which has notsince
been filled up, enabling vessels from the depth of water
to pass through it, — a great saving in distance and a much
safer navigation. The Big Creek empties into the Bay
after winding through a tract of sandy country and pine
woods. On the point, now an island, a few firs and ce
dars of insignificant growth are scattered.
¦ From Brantford to Whitehead's tavern at Burford,
on the great Western Road, the country is well set
tled and cleared ; across the Burford Plains, the first

P^ UPPER CAN40A*
jright hand Foad leads to Whitfield's tavern, Blenheim^
J>ora thence three miles to thp west \s,
. WQOPSTOCK,
This village and the town plpt ip Blandfprd forn^
together, a place of cpnaide^able importance. AdpiiraJ
Vansittart, hrotiie^- to I..ord Bexley, has purchased an ex-.
tensive prqperty, which by levelling, fencing, and clear-.
|ng, he is making very handsotrie. He has surrounded a
great part by an ej^cellent park fence, and his house and
out-buildings cover an acre of groniid; There ai^e three
churches and a school ho.iise here, and tl\e country abound
l-ich and fcftile, and settled by thf! mo^t respeqt?ib.le clas^
<>f British settlers, To the east oi this village is an ele.*,
gant niaqsiQii, a,f receiit'erection, by a vveahhy settler. — •
Major Barvvick I^as a fine property, with an excellent
housp, three miles from this village. Between these villa-t,
ges and Beechville the country is heautifii,!, intersected.
by fine streams, handsomely tiinberedi and th^ cl^re^
parts well cultivated.
BEECHVILLE
|s a beai\tiful village, midway between Woodstock and ,
Ingersoll, fron^ which it is sixteen miles.. It is on the
^ouith side ofthe River Thah^es, iiitersected by streams of ,
beautiful limpid water, possessing a ^ich soilj timbered-
with trees of majestic growtl^, and settled alt around i^
by most respectable English settlers.. There is a good :
tavern, grist and saw mills, three stdres and many me-.
chanics. The buildings aboi^t the vicinity are excellent^ ,
and the land of a superior character and moderate pric^
It contains about ong hundred iiibabitEints.
INGERSOLL
Is a neat, increasing, and flourishing village, situated in
"West Oxford,— the populatidn about 20A It has a school
^rn^^i ii^ whic^ the seryjce pf the cl^Vtrclc^ of England M

UPPER CANADA. 243.
perlbr-nied every Sunday, five merchant stores, one ta
vern, a grist and two savv^ mills, one pearlash manufacto
ry, one distillery, a great number of mechanics and trades
men of vE^riqus kinds. It has also the advantage ofa
post-office, as well as the register office fbr the county of
Oxford. A church is about being erected, about a quar-^
\er of a mile from the village, belonging to the church of
England. The roads are good, and the country long-
eetded, vvell cleetred and finely cultivated. '
EMBRO
|s a village in the fine township Qf2Jorra ; its population,
fit present, is under 100. There is a Kirk of Scotland,
dne-school, two taverns, four stores, many njechanics, saw?
mill and grist mill and some manufactories. The village
lots are selling from twenty to forty dollars each, the lo t
contaiiiing one fourth of an acpe. The township is beau
tifully timbered with maple, beech, elm, bass, cherry,
black and white ash, a few oaks and pine. Wild land is
selling for 15 to 20s. per acre. Partially cultivated farms
fi"om £1 10s, to £3 per acre. It was first settled in
1820, the inhabitants one half Scotch, the remaining half
Canadians and Americans. The population ofthe town-.
?hip in 1835 was 2,018 : this year in January, 2354.—-
The td.wnship;s of Yarmouth, Southwold, Norwich* and
Townsend have increased very considerably, in propor
tion, during the last year. From Delaware to Adelaidej
a distance of 18 miles, a post is now sent, for the accomr-
niodation of the numerous families located iu that fine
township, together with those of Moore, Plynapton, War-^
wick and Sarnia, CANADA COMPANY'S LAND.
COUNTY OF HIJKON.
T^wnahipg. Cultivated acraa. Uncultivated acrei. Asaeasment, Population.^
^iddulph, 419 3,829 £1.496 166
Qqlbsme^ ^0 24,093 5,459 15S -

246 rPPEK CANADA.
1 regret tbat I could not procure such an enlarged ac
count of this county as 1 could bave desired. Frotn all
1 learn, it still continues to progress; — the main road
through the Canada Company's lands is one ofthe finest
in the Province. Goderich, which is situated on the lU-
ver JNIaitland at its entrance into Lake Huron, must be
come a place of commercial importance. A steamboat
runs regularly between it and Detroit. The following
notice of it, by the Canada Company, merits attention :
The large Tract is in the London District, and extends along the
shores of lake Huron, a distance of 60 miles. The soil ia most excel
lent, is well watered, and atjtlie north-western extremities, at the conflu--
ence ofthe river Maitland with tbe lake, is an excellent harbourj from
vdiich tbe Company's steamboat sails regularly to Sandwich, at the
head'of lake Erie: thus completing the water-communication between
Qiuebec and New York, and the to»vn of Goderich, which is there es
tablished- Two excellent roads, to the extent of upwards of 100 miles,.
have been already made, and are equal tathe best roads in the Pro
vince ; others, in various directions, are now in progress ; and frora the
facilities thus afforded by the Company to their settlers, and the erec
tion of mills, bridges, &c. where required, the emigrant will find it
greatly to his advantage to settle in this Tract, now called the County
of Huron. In the Town of Goderich excellent stores have been esta.
blished ; a Clergyman of the Church of England resides there, and a
Presbyterian Minister preaches weekly. The former gentleman is
supported altogether by the voluntary contributions of his congregation,
which may therefore be taken as an evidence in favour of the respecta
ble character of the inhabitants of that settlement. A school, with a
master competent to teach the classics as well as the common branches
of education, has been for soflie years in operation.
"We hear wilh great pleasure that the Fisheries, another of the great
resources ofour country are likely to be developed. The legislature,
it isto be hoped and expected, will grant a loan to the Huron Fishery
Company, in order to enable them to enlarge their operations. This
Company, formed nearly two years since, by a few spirited individuals
resident in Goderich and its vicinity, for the purpose of rendering lake
Huron conducive to the increase of trade, succeeded last year to the
utmost extent that their limited nieans would afford, but the experience
tbey have gained has proved, that if sufficient Capital were at tbeir com

eWER CANADA.

247

mand, a supply of not less than 20000 barrels might annually be fur-
Dished through the means pf this company alone. The^sh principally
taken are salmon trout, white-fish and herrings, all of which are ofthe
first quality, and far superior to tbose uf the lower lakes.

Townships. Sandwich,Maiden, Culchester,
Oosfield, Mersea,

WESTERN DISTRICT.
COUNTY op ESSEX.
Cultivated acioa, Unuultivalod acres.

9,476
2,107 2,980 2,936 1,234

Maidstone&Rochester 579

33,001 13,694 14,554
19,002 8,874
10,792

Assessment. £39,428 16,070 11,586
13,863 5,263 4,249
2,211
13;581 8,378
15,899 6,489 2,3694,844 5,921
4,891
7,000 2,968 5,335

Populaiion. 2,6181,459 868
943943
525 158
1,077 656
1,134 415 216 409674
363 79(» 261524

COUNTY OF KENT,
Romney, 479 4,925
Raileigh, 3,087 22,220
Harwich, 1,279 12,762
Howard, 4,428 25,982
Orford, 2,111 12,105
Camden, 610 3,895
Dawn, 1,138 9,747
Zone, 1,166 19,342
Chatham, 1,546 6,319
Dover, 1,749 7,670
Plympton, 199 11,920
-Sombraand ) ^q^ 8,842
Walpole Island, \
Moore, 153 1.447
TAlbury, 942 10,758
Horses, 2,459 — Oxen, four year old and
Cows, 4,667 — Horned Cattle, from two to four
The following communication 1 received from a highly
valued and most intelligent friend.
•'As to soil and climate, the Western District is certainly superior
t« any other part of Upper Canada. Along the Detroit river, the value
of land has encreased within the last three years 300 per cent — the
value of land is still on the increase, and the rage for acquiring property
is really inconceivable. Some farmers who would have sold their
farras twp years ago for $1200, have refused this year $20,000 for the
very same property. The intended rail road from Bertie to Sandwich
is tbe caus^ ofthis sudden increase. The moment that that work ia
completed,: I have no doubt but this will be one of the most prosperous
parts of Upper. Canaija. From my knowledge ofthe pther parts of tlus

2,442 471
4,967 496
upwards, 2,133— MiliA
years old, 1,725.

tk'6 bPt^ER CAMbA:
Province, I do not perceive any niaterial dififerehc^ liere ih piiirtt 8r
healthfulness. Europeans dii their arrival here, and settling in thri
Woodsj are subject to agues, and remittetlt fevers, bdt t have seen thS
Sarae thing prevail among them iri every other part Bf the cotintry.— ^
Those whohave the raeans of purchasing improved farms are not sub
ject to those diseases. The nature ofthe soil is generally cla^, covei"-
ed with six or seven inches of alluvioiis substance; In some places thd
)&nd ts rather too level, but still can b^ easily drained, h^ general thie
timber is so beaVy, that w'ithdUt iiajiitali it is Very difficult to clear tiOi
land, and therefore, poor settlers must exp'46t to undergo 9 great deal
of hardship before they can render themselves tibmfdrtabl^; Thej^
hav9 nevertheless advantages that they cannot |)ossess iii aiiy dthef
part of the country. The winters ai^e so extremely mild that they can
raise cattle vvithout the least trouble^ and there are thousands df hor
ses and horned cattle ratiging through the forest, without ever being
housedi Detroit is an excellent market fdr all the surplus [frdduce. of
the country-^the pi'esent prices areas follows : Wheat $1, Oats 2s. 3d.
barley 2s; 9d. Indian Coril aiid Rye 4s. clirrency per bushel, Winches
ter measure. Poor people can easily geiemploymeiit at the foUovvin^
rates : servant man 2s. 6d. per day and fed ; servant ttiaid $4 pel'
month. A good mechanic from $1| to $2 per dtiy. The Town of
Sandwich is not fast encreasing: the present number of houses does
hot exceed 90, and the pppulatioii ofthe town does not amount to more
than 400. At present the new village of Richraahd, ppposite Detroit^
has taken tjhe start ot Sandwich, find shpuld the rail road tertninat^
there,^ as it is most likely it will. Sandwich will never become any
thing of a town. There is a steam saw and grist-mill stt Amherstbiirgh.
One steam grist and carding milliieai'Iy finished at Sandwich, and one!
^rist arid saw steam mill on River aux Puces, teri railes aboye Sand-
*richi There is no pine in this partof the country ; all the boards an^
plank are got either from the London District or froni the River Sin-
jclair'-^bowever} building materials are not scarce, for no part of thei
PjfOKince iahetter sujjplied with dak, cherry and walnut trees. Fish of
various descriptions is in abundance^ and the fisheries of white-fish
alone form a considerable! braridh cff commerce. I am sure, on an ave^
rage, there is not lesp.thaQ 10,000 barrels of white-fish exported every"
year from this part of the country. Frtiit, of the best (Juality, isinsuch
Abundance that itis alraost valueiless. Tbis *ill ^ive a suflScieht ide^
of the advantages and disadvantages of this, part of the Province. It
will never beconne ajterrestrial paradise — but it requires nothing but -
capital an^ industry; to make it the garden of Uj>per Canada. At pr***

•UPPER CANABA. 249
isent society is oh A low scaW, and we want a bettei-elass dt agribultur"
ists than oUr slovenly FreriuH Canadians."
AMHERSTBURGH
Is ori the Detroit River, three miles froni its mouth. It
is dielightfully situated, and been long settled. It is sur-
k-Buhtied by sdnie df the finest land io Canada, dnd is ad
mirably adapted fdr commerce. It has a small island
imtnediately opposite, betw;een vvhich and the shdre there
is excellent anehdrage ; it is sixteen mites from Sand-
Vvich, vvhich is at the other extreniity of the Detroit Ri
ver, adjoining Lake St. Clair. The scenery along the
jbanks ofthis Idvely river is beatitifui in the extreme, and
from the fei-tility of the soil, arid the exubet'ant vegeta
tion, exhibits a richness and verdure, not to be surpassed,
The' inhabitants are priritiipally of French descent, and
Speak the language. Owing to the great rtiildness ofthe
climate, standard apricot trees, peatihes, pears, apples^
(Eind filunis thi-'iv£ well. There are sdme very good gar
dens, and sonie tolerable houses. Therfe is a road from
Mersea on Lake Erie, by Amherstburgh, to Sandtvich— -
it is 45 niiles ; through the tovi'nships df Colchester ana.
Ma:ldon, the road is but little elevated above the level of
the lake. From Maldon to Amherstburgh, the soil is of
jthe finest quality, and excellent crops of Tobacco are
raised. The population of Amherstburgh is about 700, — ¦
(here is a large Catholic Church, also an Episcopaliaiij
and Presbyteriarii and several schools. There is an ex-.
tensive cdmmon near Amherstburgh, .the pasturage of
which is very luxuriant. The Detroit River is about
threeqjuarters of a mile in breadth,' and is nearly thirty
tpiles in length, extending from Lake St- Clair td Lake
Erie. The jsfaters df those majestic inland seas, Lakes
Superior, Michigari, and Huron pass thrdugh it, on their
route to the St, Lawrence. About a mile and a half frdnci
Amherstburgh commences the Hiiron Reserve, extend*
ing aiorig the banks ofthe Detroit River seven miles, and
being seven railes in depth. Many attempts , have beeii
made to induce the Indians td dispose of this valuable
territory, unsurpassed by richness of soil, beauty of scene
ry, fertility, and mildness of climate in Upper CanadaSj.

S50 tiPPEft CASAl/A.
Between this place and Sandwich tlie banks ofthe Rivef
are low, and the country swampy.
SANDWICH
Is situated on a fine rising ground, nearly opposite De
troit, the ferry to •which is about a niile and a half above
it, towards Lake St. Clair. It is the county town and
consists of along irregular street, along the river. ' It
•contains a population of 306, and is attraeting that atten^
tion which its situation so well merits. Theinhabitarits
are principally French ; there is a large Catholic Church
here:— lat tiie ferry^ a considerable improveraent has taken
place, and raany bouses haifc beeri built. The land is
well cleared, and free from stumps; there are likewise
sorae pretty gafdens, and excellent orchards. The vievV
of Detroit from Sandwich, on a summer's evening, ai
the sun is sinking beneath the western sky-, illuminating
•with her last lengthened beam tbe lofty spires and large^
buildings of Detroit, is very fine. The Detroit river cort-^
tinues widening above Sandwich, until it reaches Lake,
St. Clair, about seven miles distant. This take is nearly
round, about thirty miles across, and ninety iri circum-'
Terence. The river Thames vvhich rises in the (.'liippe-
way country, empties into Lake St. Clair, a lew miles a^
bove Detroit, The soil from Sandwich, towards the
xnouth ofthe Thames, is generally gddd, particularly the
lUplauds, but imraediately at the Thames thete are very
extensive marshes and prairies, used fof grazing num
bers of horses and cattle. The Thames is navigable to
Chatham, fibout twenty miles from Lake St. Clair. The
lands, on botb sides ofthe Thames to Chatham, are evi
dently prairie, and capable, if drained, of falsing the finest
crops, and it seems very likely that tha settlers will endea
vour to do so, by means of Lake Erie. ^ The road Iron*
Sandwich to Chatham passes along^ the shores of Lake
St. Clair and the banks of the Thames. The Lake is a
noble piece of water, clear, bright and as smooth as glass.
On the American side the scene is diversified, — here a
clump of dark forest trees, there a patch of cleared land,
not yet cropped; beyond, a farra house^ a barn, sorae
stacks of yellow grain, an orchard just behind the house,
and farther up, far in the distauce^ fieMs of corn. Tt^

tPPER CANADA. 2&I
Big Bear Creek also empties itself into Lake St. Clair,
after passing through tbe beautiful townships of Dawn[
Zone, Brooke, and Sombraj all in progress of settling,
and being as rich land as any in the Province. This lake
is connected with Lake Huron by the River St. Clair^
which runs south from Lake Huron to Lake St. Clair ;
it is forty miles long, and nearly.4 mile wide. Along the
Detroit River and Lake St. Clair are numerous wind
mills, which with the gardens, orchards, and the absence
of the stumps in the cleared parts,, give it the resemblance
of an English seene. The great bulk of.the population
are Catholics, and the mission, of my esteemed friend, the
Rev. Angus McDonell, extends 30 miles along the De
troit River and Lake St. Clair The congregation is
com]iosed of French extraction and of Irish emigrants. —
The number of communicants is about SiOOO, The pre
sent church is altogether insufifieient for their accoraraoda
tion, — it is an old frame building 44 by 90 feet. A new
church, however, is in contemplation of brick, of the
Gothic order, to be 60 by 120 feet.. The Canadians whor
corapose the great majority ofthe population of Sand
wich are extremely ignorant, and have no ambition for
educating their children : with the exception of four or
five there is not one araong thera who can either read or
write. The common schools are few and thinly attend
ed. The district school is a useless waste of public raoney,a
mere sinecure, and is not in any respect upon a belter
footing than the worst coramon school in the Province.—
Amherstburgh, with a fine harbour, a delightful situation,
is not progressing as it ought: — indeed I ani< afraid that
as soou as the troops are removed from it, it will decrease
rapidly, unless the Indian Reserve be settled. Had not
the collected folly and wickedness of last year attempted
to meddle with that Reserve, it would have been sje'tj;led
erenow: but Amherstburgh was dooraed, as well as the
rest ofthe Province, tofeel the baneful and withering in
fluence of the venal, abandoned, and jobbing raajqi^ly.
Fifteen thousand acres of the Reserve, have been bought
by the Commissioners. Sir John Colborne got the Re
serve surveyed ; but the presertt vvorth^'^ successor to that
good man was so vilely and wickedly harrassed by those

252 UPPER CANADA.
pseudo patriots that he could not interfere, until happl/y,
by his appeal tp the people, he got the Aoigean stablea
cleansed fiom all the. l^lth vvith vvhich they had for iwo
ssssions beep polluted.
*'We perceive that the fever for purchasing land in this township ia
feteadily encreasing. Most any of the farms on the road leading fron^
Sandwich to the. Ferry could two years ago ha^e been bought for £373!
pr £500, and now none can be bought for less than £2,000. The
purchasers are priucipally Americans, who knpw a thing ort\j'o, and
are taking advantage of the present favorable miment tp pt^rchaseland ^
\te\ng "aware that in a very short tirae (he operations ofthe Detroit river '
Rail Road company will cause it to do.uble its value. We would can
didly advise those who have land to sell not to be in tpo great a hurry :.
for it is r\ot tp be supposed that farms situated on the shore of one of
the most beautiful rivers qf North America, or more properly a strait
between two of the greatest lakesV-^a link in the chain of water commu-
rication from New York to Michillimaci^nac — will not Increase, in a;
very short time, in tenfold their present value, when to their other ad
vantages is added that oftheir being in the vicinity of theterminaticii^
pfan intended rail road which will be more than 230 miles in length.
Let us for a moment consider the folly of beiijg so precipitate in dispo-'
sing of valuable lands. A rail road of more tnati 230 mjles in length is,
about to be forrned thrpugh the most fertile part of the Province — \t$%
termination will be in the township pf Sandwich, most probably directly
ppposite to the cpmmencemeht of the Detroit and St. Joseph's Rail
Road — making in all the longest continuation of Rail R o^d in the
¦^rqrld. There is not a doubt, with reflecting persons, that the rail road
V'ill be constructed immediately, asthere are a number of wealthy Ame.-
ricai[iB yvho will purchase all the stock, or as niuchpf itas they can get;
^nd this much may be said for brother Jonathan, that few of the en
terprises he undertakes are not gone through with. Michigan is filling
Up as rapidly as possible her vast extent of territory — ^and the commeree
between her and New York, and other commercial cities, is getting to.
be almost incalculable. It is well known that this great commerce ia
with difficulty restricted to the summer season alone, and that during.
the winter tbere is a great demand for the merchaiidize which during
that season cartnot be procured because of navigation being closed.  -
During -the winter, then, the intercourse between Michigan and the
commercial cities of the East, through our Province, would be immense
— ^not from tlie transportation of Merchandize alone, but by the number
pf emigrants to Michigan ahd the far north-west, who wpuld prefer tra
velling the shertest route on a rail road. The township of Sandwich
will naturally be the Btarti,pg place and termination of all this passing
wealth and emigration tbi-ough our country ; and there are few who
Vfiil net admit that this township especially bi^s fair tp become a place
9f very great importance. - '
The W^ste^-n District returns four merpberis to Parlisv-.

APPENDIX.

[No. 1. see p. 110.] Worthing, Dec 18, 1835.
My Dear Brother — I received your kind letter the 9th ofthis month,
for which I am much indebted tp you ; you seem surprised that I ha4
not answered your letter that you say you have sent me, but the pre
sent' letter is the only pne I have received. I am happy to hear that
you are so very comfortable. I hope by the blegsing of Heaven vou
may always remain so. I have heard from all three ol our brothers
and Rebecca since Micchaelmas. Rebecca has just lost a child ; they
liave suffered very much with the scarlet fever. 1 wish to Providence
they were as. wetland comfortably off as you and i/our brother are, though
i thirik they have abttndanee of work, but the farmers are dreadfully bad
pfrindeed — my master says that nine farmers out of ten must break ;
Wheat is selling now at from £7 to £9 the load. The poor are now
managed by persons appointed by the government; large work-housea
are built all over England, and ten to thirty Parishes are united^ and
every able bodied man out of employment, and that applies for relieff
is obliged to go -immediately to the work-house, and work bard, live
^r.d, or shift for himself The men and their wives are kept apart, and
^he poor children are also taken from their parents and kept altogether
separate from tlien>, though they say the children are taken care of and'
learhtio read and write. I often think of you all when I go to church,
and y^onder if you are so favored as to be tiear a place of worship, if
not I sincerely hope you have Bibles and Prayer Bqoks, and then though
you may be in the midst ofthe wild forest your prayers will be heard if
offered in Christian truth. I shall expect a letter froip Arthur or your-.
self once at least every year, giving me the particulars of tlie country
where you are so happy, and every thing worth knowing. I, shall send
your letter all round to our brothers and sisters, for I am certain that
they must be pleased to hear that you are so comfortable and doing so
well-^they all of them beg to be kindly remembered to 'you all. -l
hope you will send this letter to Arthur, if there is a post to wliere he ia,;
arid give my kind love to iiiiTj and wife and family, and accept the
same from'"your affectionate Sjster, Jane OlivSr.
P, S. I send direction of Qeorge, who I ani sure will be delighted ta
receive a letter from you from the wilds of Canada. I wish a "merry
phristmas arid l^appy New Year and many of them to you all.
HomeDistrict — [See p. 172.]
^Horses, 6,049^Four year old Oxen, 7,332— Milch Cqws, 15, Mi-
Horned Cattle from two to four years old, 6,239. '"
The circulation of the Province has hitherto been raanaged by char
tered banks ; during the last session of Parliament a Currency bill was
passed fixing the value of British and other Coins a? a circulating Pro-
yinciat ci\rrency, likely to cause a greater circulation of coin. The

254 APPENDIX.
Upper Canada and Commercial Banks have mightily assisted the f'ro-
vince, although not at'all sufficient for its wants. Besides these BanUf,
the accoiint of whose affairs are subjoined, -the Gore Bank has lately
come into operation ; an Agricultural Bank has been for some time
established ; and a bank styled the "Bank of the People," has also
been in operation. The stock is a most profitable investment of cnpi-
tal, as tbe following statement will show.
"At a recent auction sale, the following rates were obtained for bank
stock— 10 shares Montreal bank, £29 ; 10 do. £29 10; 10 do £30 10;
and 25 do at £30 premium. 15 shares City Bank, at £7 ^ 40 do at
£7 10; and 23 do at £8 premium.;"
"The People's Bank of Toronto, have lately declared a dividend of
six per cent, for the last six months, and have called for a further in
stalment of tet), per cent, upon the capital stock subscribed."
General Statement ofthe Affairs ofthe Bank ofUpper Canada on,
Wednesday the 3rd day of February, 1836 — furnished by order of
the Honorable the Commons House of Assembly,
Capital Stock paid in - - - - ' - £2.00,000 0 Q
An^ogntof Notesin circulation not bearing interest
ofthe valun of five dollars and upwards, £170,481 5 0
Do. under five dollars, - - £49,542 10 0
Total amoutit in circulation. ... - 220,023 15 0
Bills and notes in circulation, bearing interest, none.
Balarice.s due toother Banks, . . . _ 89,768 18 8-
Cash deposited, including all sums whatsoever due
from the Bank, not bearing interest (its bills in circula
tion and balances due to other bankaexcepted,) - 157,755 1-3 7
Cash deposited bearigg interest, . , . 8,736 19 8
£616,285 6 11
RESOURCES op THE BANK.
Gold, silver and other coined metals in Ihe vaults of
theBank, viz:— In vault at Toronto, £98,730 13 5
Amount at tbe Agencies, - ' - 4.129 2
Total Specie, ...-.-
Real estate and bank furniture, ¦. - -
Bills of other Banks, .....
Balances due from other Banks, - - - -
Balances Hue bythe Agencies at this date, being
money in transitu, - - . - - - - 1,745 4 4
' ,.Amount of all debts due, including notes, bills pf ex
change, and all stock and funded debts of every des
cription, excepting the balances due from other banks, 479,321 2 7

1

£102,859 15

&

8,858 10

10

16,092 O

0

7,408 IS

8

£616,285 6 H
We the undersigned make oath and swear, that the foregoing states
(nents are correct, to the best of our knowledge and belief;
Wm. PROUDFOOT, President,
Thos. G. RIDOUT, Cashier.
S>yorD before me at Toronto, this 6th of February, 1836.
Jambs Fitzgibbon, J. P

At*FE^DlX 2i>^
MISCELLANEOUS.
Kate and amount of the last dividend, being for the six months eudina
tbe 31 at December, 1835 :
Rate of dividend four percent on £200,000 to amount
of capital stock paid in, ,£8000 0 0
Amount of reserved profits afier declaring the lastdividend 59,59 0 8
Do of debts due to theBank and not paid being over due 41(169 10 3
Bank of Upper Canada, Toronto, Feb. 8, 1836.
Abstract from the Books of the Commercial Bank of the Midland
t District, exhibiting a general statement ofthe affairs of the Institu
tion, on the ist day of February, lb36, according to Act of Pariia
ment, 2d Wbi. c. 4.
Capital Stock paid in, .... ^100,000 0 0
Bank notes in circulation not bearing interest, vi2:
bf $5 and upwards, - - £100,887
Under $5, - - - - - 44,375.

145,262 0 d

Bills and notes bearing ifiterest, tione.
Balances due to other banks and foreign agents on
Exchange transactions,  380,806 1 0
Cash depos-its liearing interest, - - - 12,649 0 0
Cash deposits including all sums whatsoever due
¦from the bank not -bearing interest, . - . 39,600 l^ S

iCotal amount due from the bank, - - - £336,317 13 5

._ tlate of J yearly dividend to the 1st Dec. last being
4 per cent on the capital stocky - - - - - 4,000 0 0
Rate bonus paid 15th Dec. last 6 per cent, - 6,000 0 0
Araount of reserved profits at the time of declaring
the last dividend and bonus, ..... 174 15 6
Ainountof debts due to tbe bank and not paid being
over due, - - - £10,724 13 II
ef which £108 18 1 may be considered doubtful.
RESOURCES OP THE BANK.
Gold, silver and copper, in the bank and its offices^ £34,874 10 Ct
Real estate, office furrfiiure, &c., , - - - 3,703 10 10
Billsof other banks. .... 7,4241010
Balances due from other banks and foreign agencies,. 5,704 6 1
Amount uf all debts due, including notes, bills of ex
change, and all stock and funded debts of every des<
criptiou, excepting tbe balances due frora other banks, 284,610 16 6'
Total amount of the resources of the Bank, £336,317 13 5
Account of the affairs of the Commercial Bank of the Midland Dis
trict, according to the best ofour knowledge and belief.
J. S. CARTWRIGHT, President,
F,A. HARPER, Cashier.
Sworn before me at Kingston, thia 2d of February, 1836.
W. H. Grav, j. p:

266 ^ APPENDIX
The establishment of nine new Ban!'^ is cdritetiipialed, and an iti.
crease ofthe capital of two old ones. The notices are^ ;
To increase the capital of the Bank of Upper- Canada^ £600,000l
Do do Commercial Baiik, 500,000-
For a Bank in Prince Edvfard District* 100,000
Do Duridasj • 100,000
Do Niagara, 200,000
Do Western Districtj 200,000
Do Brockville, 2iJC,000
i)o St. Catherines, hot stated:
Do Coboilrg, not statedi
Do Prescott, 100,000
Do Chatham^ 50,000
If these proposals are Complied with there will be a total increase in
the banking capital of Upper Canada of £1,850,000. On this the!
Herald remarks : "The fact that so large an increase of our banking
capital is proposed, shows not only that a large increase is actually
necessary, but also that a Vast amount of capital can be furnished to
supply that increase ; for we cannot suppose that the persons who pro'r
pose so vast an addition to our banks, have not considered and found
the means which are necessary to, carry their designs into eflect."
Thoraas Dalton, Esq. the Editor ofthe Patriotj has been indefatiga
ble in his exertions to procure an extension of banking privileges td
the Province,. and if his admirable reasonings on the subject are an
earnest of his forth coming' work, it S^ill be one df the most interesting'
and iraportant ever issued from the Press.
The Bank of British 'North- America is likely also to come into opif-
ration arid serve the Province materially. The Welland Canal Com
pany, in order to carry on tbeir affairs, haveissued notes, payable at d
twelve month's date — from all which- it may be seen that a greai in
crease of the circulating medium is absolutely indispensible to carr^
Out the resources of the Province. The Legislative! Cotindl passed the
following Resolutions on Banking :
Resolved, That there is scarcely any duty more imperative u'poii
the Legislature than to guard with care the commercial credit of this
Province with other Colonies and Countries, and to' uphold the confi
dence and security of its inhabitants in their mutualxlealings.
Resolved, That with a view to these objects the regulation of the
metallic currency, and the exercise of such a control in regard to the
Creation and operation of Banks,- bIs may seem most proper for securing
the public against lossfrom a valueless or depreciated paper currency,
and also against the evils whicb'-ntay arise from a sudden increase or
diniinution of the circulating medium of commercial transactions are
matters which call for the vigilant and scrupulous attention of the Le
gislature. .
Resolved, That the admitted necessity of having a much larger ca
pital actively eraplpyed'in thisPrpvince than could be represented by
any attainable'quantity of specie, has naturally and unavoidably led to
the creation of a paper currency to meet tie. wants of a rapidly iitcrea-
•ing population and the demands ofa gtowf'mg spirit of enterprise.

APPENDIX. 1257
l.esolved That while it was a perfectly new question under what
J^gulations the emission of a paper currency would be most safely au
IhoriSed It presented the fdllowing cdnsideratiPns : 1. That ii-mifrht
lie provided fdr ^dlely by the establishment df a Provihcial Bank ha
nng a large capital which might frora time to time be encreased, 'with
•branphiis of discount ahd depofeite in all the Districts of the Province
giving to each District the bpportiJnity of subscribiiig within itself for
a due proportion df the capital stock, in the original creatidn of the
institution arid upon every occasion of the Capital being increased, and
snhjecting the affairs of the Corporation to such regulations Aad con
trol as would best secure their safe and satisfactory mandgemerit. Or
Sdlvi by chartering one other Bank in adclitidri to siich Provincial bank
in order td eitsure to the public any benefit that might arise from com-
petitidti and to do away with any dbjectidn or appearance of dbjection
dn the grouhd of monopoly. Or 3rdlyj by fchartering a number of
banks, but a number that should be limited with caution by"^the Legis
lature, and only suffered to be increased gradually and in prbportlori
lothe iiicreasein the population and trade ofthe country. Or 4thly,
by chartering with little hesitation as many Batiking Compaiiies as
might apply to be incorporatedi relying upon the sufflciisntiy of the,
restrictions to be contained in their charters and upon their prudent
inanagement oftheir affairs for protecting th^ publit: against evil cpfl-
isequences from their operations; Or 5thly, by permitting still greater
or rather an unlimited latitude and leading it to the discretioil of indivi-,
VidualS pr vpluntary associations fl-eelytd conduct all the business of
Banking without Legislative authdrity or restriction, Issiiing bills whicli
are to pass \Vith tl;iose who are willing to take thein as the representa
tive df Cash, in su^ quantities as they may choose and with no other
security to their reoeiqption than the liability Vvhich th& law attitches td
these in common with aH othei? iihdertakiiigs;
Resolvedj Thatthe Legi.slatiire commeiiced by adopting the syste'ni
first specified in the foregoing Resolutions ; that after some years it:
advanced, not without scruple and reluctance, tP the secpnd ; and thid
jfirststep pf departure having been taken, the .rapidity with which the
Legislative Council finds itself pressed to advance even to the last has
led them to entertain serious apprehension of fnjury to the |fublic froni
the readiness with which the Various projects for Banking with and
without charters seem at th"e present moment to be encouraged,
: Resolved, That the Legislative Council cannot forget the very great
injury which a portion of this Proviricd formerly Susiaihed from the
failure of an utiauthdt'ised and unregulated Bank ; and without assum
ing the probability of any intentional wrong on the partof those who
may be allowed td exercise the very important privilege pf issiiing their
botes as a circulating mediutii ; still Ip'oldhg at tbfe actual state df the
Proviribe and the presetit condition of its population, they cannot but
Si'-adthe Very probable occiirrence of ruinous losses to individuals and
a calamitous shock td trade and public creditirom allowing such ft
privilege to be exercised in any other mannerthan under the strict an«
Scrupulous control of the legislaturft;

^B XPi»E^bi^<.
• . ijt REVENUE. *
The Revenue raised in Upper Canada is net by direct taxalioil, biit
by a proportion of duties on importation by sea at the Port of 4iluebec^
ijy duties on Licenses for retailing spirituous liquors, distilling,'&c. :
duties on certain articles impprted frpm the United States, paid by the
jmpprter -: by diities on License's to hawkers, pedlars^ auctioneers, at
.sales at .auction ; by bank stock dividends ; B-urlington Ba.y Canal
Tolls, and those of Kettle Creek harbour. The following table of
Expenditure and Resources will show the Finaneial condiliph of the
Province. e> o

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APPENDIX. 23^
There are947lnn.keepers. who pay each from 3Z. ta lOZ. the duty
amounting to £4,798. 407 Shop-keepers licensed to sell spirituous
liquors, contributing =^2,035.^ Th^ nuraber of distilleries, i^ gallon
raeasure is 6834, paying £854 5 0. 6 Steamboats paying 3of and
2 setts of Billiard tables paying 80Z. The hawkers and pedlars on foot
who pay 5/. annually 36, 180Z. Those who travel with one horse and
who pay 10/. annually 28, 280/. And those who travel' with twohorsea-
andwhopay 15/. annually 2, 30/. Total 490/. The nuraber of auc-
tioners licensed who pay 51. annually 27, 135/. and the, amount of auc
r^S on^ I ^'^^ y^*"^ import duty from- the United State*
^-13,898; the gross Revenue of fhe Province during the year waa
£79,450: and that it will continue to increase, so as to enable the Pro
vince to liquidate their debt, with great ease, is evident. The^rinci-
pal difficulty experienced was in inducing capitalists to embark their
means ira a Province, wher& samuch insensate political agitation ex
isted. That task was left td the Hon. J. H. Dunn, who accomplisbedr
itin a mani»er worthy of his character ; and who by his zeal effectually
removed that uneasiness'which was felt in a powerful degree relative to
the resources and stability of the Province. I certainly differed in the
view which Mr. Dunn took of thfr nature of the offices and duties of
Executive Councillor ; it appeared to methat the whdle difficulty arose
from a desire that tbe duties should be enlarged, and the nature of tbe
office changed, but certainly the gentlemen who thought so should have-
refused to have accepted ofthe office, unless its duties were congenial
witb their wishes, rather than make their objection after finding they
were not as comprehensive as they could wish. N<otvvithstanding this,
no person who is acquainted with Messrs. Dunn, Kobinson and Wells,
can for one moment suppose, that they are one whit less attached to the
British supremacy, than the most ardent supporter of the view which
the Governor took of the question, nor that they would hesitate an in
stant, in shedding their blood in defence of that government of whicfas:
they have always proved most devoted and loyal subjects.
The fdllowing extracts from the interesting correspondence whicl»
took place, relative to the Loan, will clearly demonstrate the zeal and'
activity manifested by Mr. Dunn, in his intercourse with the monied.
interests of Great Britain I
"I made myself personally acquainted in every quarter where! might
likely meet with success, and affnrded every information I possessedin
respect to and for the benefit of Upper Canada ; but Ifound consider
able reluctance amongst the monied bouses to have any thing to do
with the loan, from the very great excitement which had been produced
from the rumors and reports in circulation relating to the state ofthe
Canadas; and it ia a well known fact, that those rumors affected all
Canadaian stocks: that ofthe Canada Company, which had maintainj-
ed a premium of 55 per cent, fell, in consequence of these rumors, to
3.3iper cent — -and the Upper Canada Debentures, frora a premium, had
fallen to about par. I thought it best, therefore, to negociate the whole
loan-in the manner which I deemed the roost advantageous, and I hope
it wiir appear as favourable, under all considerations, as could he pb-
lained. 1 employed myself most assiduously for the interests of Upper
Canada, and without having gone to Englaijid, 1 think I should adt

^60. APPENDIX.
}iave been enabled to carry the intentions of thf Legislature into,
pffect." •'Our present debt is 180,000/, currency, and 200,000/. sterling la,
London. The whole df these sunns have been expended in public
improyements, canals, harbpurs, roads, &p. mostpf which are product
ive S)u4 yvill ultitnately redeem their cost. The present loan is to im
prove the St, Lawrence, and to construct a cansil so as to ad|nit vessels.
from the Oceap tp lakes Ontario, Erie, &c. It is the general opinion
that the revenue from the capal when finished wj^ll soon, pay the interest
and priiicipal. Therpvenue on which the loan is secured, as well as;
the other twQ, is quiie ample' tp meet the interest and all other Remands
pn it. fheProvince i^ increasing in.population and wealih; and the.
revenue, though not so favourable as in 1833, yet there is' no appre
hension that the cause ^hich produced the falling off, will hav.e any=
permanent effect, This revenue i^ entirely derived frpra duties levied
kt.the Port of Gtuebec, being about 2^ per cent, sterling, ad valorem,
upon all wares and merchandize, and about 6d. sterling per gallon
tipon wines, spirits and other liquors, and a small amount in Upper'
Canada from commerce with the United States of Americaj and on li-
peuces for the sale of wines, spirjts, &C. No.dutieg whatever on ex-.
ports. There is no direct tax tipon the inhabitants of this P'rovince,
saving fpr Ip'cal and special purposes. The law fixes the value pf ona
pound on cultivated, and pn uncultivated lands, fp.ur shillings per acre,
^nd all pther prpperty is rated equally Ipw, and assessed at one penny,
jnthe pound, no part of which is paid into the public treasuiry."
Extract of a Isller fiom Meeere. Tbonas Wilson & Co, to Mr. Dunn.
MWe beg to state, that we consider your arrival in this couutrv a roosfe
fortunate event, in respect to the negotiation for a loan, with ythich yo»
rave been charged by the Government of Upper Canada, there having
teen so much exaggeration and misrepresentation on the subject ot-
the Canadas. It would be irapossible, perhaps, to remove from the
public mind the p^'.ejudiee and alarm which prevail, not only respecting
the Lower, butthe Upflcf Prcvince. We trust, however, thatthe state
ments ,yjau have made will enable us to dispel the uneasiness pf the ca
pitalist^ vith whom we are. associated J and restore in some degree to'
the Debentures pf Upper Ca^ada, the currency and value we had suc
ceeded ingiVing thern last j^ear. A loyal, intelligent, and industrious
population, jsuch as you describe tbe Upper Canadians; ink country
possessinggreat natural resources, with the fostering care of the Go
vernment, cannpt fail to give to tbat Government, at no very dist*.
ant period, a ^^igh degree of public credit. Under Oiese impressions
and actuated by.-a sincere desire to promote vour views, webave beea
induced to offer, for the 400,000 on Canada' Debentures, lOOl. But
Vie must own to you, that we should have been much better pleased if
thenegociation of them cpuld have been deferred till the result of the
Canada Co^imis^ion had been ascertained, and some idea could be
formed what turn affairs will take in th^ Lower Province."
Extract from a letter Tioof MesarB. BarinB, Brothers & Co. lo Mr. Dunn,
' 1'It only reraains for us now to express our satisfaction at thus enter-
Wi *.9i9 connection with the Province of Upper Canada;^ and to ^ea^^

APPENDIX,

pur feeble testimony to the honourable zeal with which you have con.
(lucted the operation confided to you, whilst we add, that we shall aK
vaya be happy to devote our services to the interest of the Prpvinije,"-
ROADS.
The Roads in the Province are bpth made and repaired bv Statute
labour, and occcaional Parliamentary grants; every adult is compelled
to do his proportion ofthis work, but the number of davs which each
individual who posspsses houses or land is to work, is regulated by the-
assessraent. The roads, however, can never be good, until comm u-,
tion takes place, so as to enable the different townships to convert the
personal services required from the people into small sums of money,
payable annually. By this mode roads could be both made and mend
ed. During this present year, at the latter end of the month of May^
one of tbe path-masters in the Jersey Settlement, called out all his men.
to perform their full quantum of statute labour; the road was well finish
ed. In thefirst week df June a violent and unprecedented storm took
place, re-ideringtho road worse than before its repair; the statute labou^
having been expended, the road has become worsfe and worse, and caii-
pot be improved until tbe period for imposing statute labour occurs.
again. This is by no means solitary ; it is to be hoped that as the
pesent House of Assembly will not consume its time, and the people's
money, in vain discussions about elective Legislative and Execu^
tive councils, vote by ballc;(t, and a farrago pf revolutionary twaddle ; tbat
|hey will occupy themselyes more beneficially in establishing such in
ternal regulations aud improvements as will render them mostservice-
jible to the Prdvince. ' MILITIA.
^ According to the present law, every man above eighteen and under
foriy, must train for tlie militia ; they are called out three times every
year, the annual muster day being the 4th of June. It is scarcely pos--
sible to conceive anj' thing more ludicrous than this annual exhibition.
No one can deny the utility of a properly organized military force, and
itis much to be lamented that a selection could not be made from each;
township in every district, to form a regular^ decent,' effective militia,
exerapting them from statute labour, serving on juries, providing them,
with arms and acoutrements, and rendering thera a respectable and
available body for any purpose they might b,e required. At present i^
is a hardship on the great body of labourers, and is but an incentive ta.
drunkenness and disorder. This ia another subject well worthy of
parliamentary consideration.
SCHOOLS.
One pf the most interesting, as it avowedly is, one of the most im
portant subjects, that can pccupy tbe attention of the Province,. ;ai8-the>
establishment of schools, that will place the opportunities fdr '^ucEi--
tidriwitffin the reach of every father of a family. Observation fe thu;
yery element of experience, and a proper knowledge of things is the-,
consequence of a persevering a,nd unprejudiced observation. Td.
what, but to those admirable nurseries of virtue, with which Scotland
•;^?abounds, can be attributed, the morality, frugality, industry, and
prosperity so generally to be raet with in that country:^-to what, but;
, l^that circumstance dowe lopk upon the arrival pf a body of Scotch

262 APPENDIX.
emigrants, as an invaluable treasure? Their parochial schools, with
school libraries, bas made them the honest, frugal, worthy, 'industri-
oiis people tbey' are. From the Educational Statistics ofthe High
lands and Islands, compiled in 1833 from parochial returns, Ifind the
following analytical results; —
In the Synods of Argyle ; two Presbyteries in Aberdeen, (Alford
and .Kincardine O'heil;) theS-ynods of Moray, Ross, Sutherland, and
Caithness ; Glenelg, Orkney, and Zetland, comprehending 220 par-
jsbes'j and a population of 504,955. The number of schools not
including Sabbath and week-day evening schools, and of scholars are»
of Parochial Schools 273, scholars, l4,2o2 ; — -Schools supported by
societies, 3i5j scholars, 18,085; — Schools enddwed, or partially so,
or supported by subscription, 137, scholars, 6,314;^^chools on teach
ers' own adventure, without salary, 372, scholars, 13,728:— Number
schools, 1,097;— Number of scholars, 52,329— besides 418 Sabbath
schools, 20 week-day evening schools, and about 80 Schools of Indus
try of the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge. .During tha
a.dministration of that enlightened, consistent, and venerable states
njan, Earl Grey, a system of education was established in Ireland, in
accordance with a plan, sanctioned and approved of by the dignita
ries of tbe Catholic and Protestant Churches, enlarged, comprehend
sive, ai-id effe.ctual in its operation, and admirably adapted for this Pro-
¥Jiic:e, to raeet the wants of its large and unprovided Catholic Popu
lation. It is really nielanqholy to traverse the Province, and go intOi
many ofthe counnpu schools; .you find a herd of children, instructed by
some ami-British adventurer, instilling into the young and tender .mind
sentiments hostile to tbe parent state; false accounts i)f the late war in
which Great Britain was engaged with the United States : geography
setting fortli New- York, Philadelphia, Boston, &c.,'as the largest and
4inest cities in the \yoild ; historical reading books, describing the
American population as the; most free and enlightened under Heaven ;
insisting oiii the superiority of theic laWs and institutions, to tbose of
all the world, in defiance ofthe Agrarian outrages and mobsupremacy
daily witnessed and lament.ed; and American spelling-books, diction
aries, and grammar, teaching them an anti-British dialect, and idiom ;
although living in a Province, and being subjects, ofthe British Crown»
GEOLOGY.
Besides the iron vvhich has already been discovered in the Province,
valuable specimens of lead ore have been found in the County of Dun
das — iu the townships of Clinton and Madoc — viens of coal have beea
found in Caledon and other pait^—gypsum is met with iu inexhaustible
quantities— salt springs strongly saturated are numerous — and some-
Riilphurous springs have also been founds one of great strensth in the
tawnship of Ancaster. In the township of Woodiiouse, near"port Do
ver, lliere is a creek, called Sinking Creek, which has a subterrai>eou&
cotii-seufa mile or two, and after oozing again from the bowgls of the
earth, iis character becomes entirely altered, being strongly impregna
ted -with sulphur.
, "Several Mines we ar6 credibly informed, have been discovered in
different parts of fhe Eastern Distiict, and so great is the interest
excited among our inhabitants that persons are to be seen in every di-

At'i'ENDIX 26^
!r6dlioh ranging thrdggh thetorests and fields in search of hidden trea
sures. In the township pf Beverly, it is said a copper minepf great
extent has been fouud, tbe ore has been analyzed aud contain; a certain
portion of gold, a company has been formed to work the mine, and un
application made to Gouerninent to allow them to do so, whi^h it seems
has been granted under certain restrictions. A lead mine has also been
discovered in thetownship of Mountain, which contains pre of so rich
a quality, that the people residing in its vicinity have moulded bullets
from it in its natural slate. Another mine has been found which is said
to contain a mixture of copper and lead; We bave no hesitation in
saying tbat our country abounds in mines and minerals, and that all
that is requred, is enterprise to discover, and industry and perseverance
to convert tbem to the useful purposes of life.''
REiPORT OF THE SELECT COMMITTEE,
dP THE LEGISLATIVE COUNCIL ONTHE SALE OP CROWN LANDS.
The Committee have thought it expedient to Call before them certain
¦persons resident in different parts of the Province, in order to gain as
extensive information as is practicable, and at the same to put the- Le
gislative council in possession of such facts and opinions as might tend
to throw light onthe important subject of enquiry. Tlie result of the
investigation has had the effect, in no small degree, to sti'engthen thfe
opinion formerly entertained by the committee that the present system
pursued by his Majesty's government, in the disposal of public lands,
and settlement ofthe Province, is not one well calculated toattract either
the wealthier class of emigrants who visit the Colony iu search of a
permanent abode for themselves and frieftds, or of those settlers pos
sessed of more limited means who annually press forward to the west
ern States, contracted as it naturally is, with the more favorable terms
afforded for location by the Government of that country. There, al
though public sales have hitherto taken place before applicants were
permitted td make their locations by private bargain, yet such is the
celerity and simplicity of all the arrangeraents for the settlement of
these extensive territories, that an emigrant nray proceed to one of
their land offices, make a purchase, and receive his patent from the
Government in one half ofthe time consumed by his friend who lingers
in Upper Canada, waiting the uncertain issue of a public sale, or pri
vate application for purchase from the Government, of some lot or
tract of land, which he luight desire for his future residence. It is true
that the accommodation which a credit of five or ten years affords to
-persons of straightened circumstances, may be regarded as a beneficial
indulgence on the part of the Government But when the high upset
price, with accumulating interest^ is taken into consideration, together
with the fact, that but a small number of the purchasers are found able
to pay the instalments as they become due, it may be asked'if the ulti
mate pirosperity of the people themselves would not more certainly be
'Secured, if credit sales were altogether abolished, and such an abate
ment of thevaluation raade as would induce multitudes of emigrants,
and other settlers possessed of iramediate means, to take up allotments
who now flock to settlements much more reraote from market, and
where neither the soil nor climate is preferable to millions of acres at
tbe disposal of Government in tliis Province? High upset prices es-

S64 iPPENDIX.
^blished for sales of land at along credit, are, besides, d'icduragin|[
to such settlers as have the means of payment at once— ^and the Select
Committee conceive that in all cases where the purchaser is mabled
to make immediate payment, a discount of at least ten per cent, from
the price ofthe lands should be given.
With respect to that Resolution which recomraends the establishment
of an agent for the sale of lands in each District, eir other principal
town, the committee cannot but entertain the most favorable opinionj
convinced as they are that so long as all applications must be made to
the Comraissioner of Crown Lands, at the seat of Governmentj just so
long will uncertainty, delay, and disappointment CPutinue ; for lio-w
can that officer, let his anxiety to do justice bt; ever so ^reat, decide
satisfactorily upon conflicting claicns for landj removed so distant a.s
the contending parties often are, from all opportunity df personal in
vestigation by him f Consequently much dissatisfaction has arisen iri
Variovs Districts of tlie country, to obviate which, in future, the cdmmit-
tee recommend the change soUght for in that respect. One obyious ad
vantage to the public at large, would immediately follow siich a regu
lation, which is, that inall the Districts lying eastward of Torontpj lands
now offered for sale by private indivldualSj as well as the waste land
ofthe Crown, would attract the notice; of emigrants resorting to the
offices of the several land agents, and thus induce the settlement of
numerous wealthy farailies, who otherwise, under the present system,
would never think of looking at any part of the country, until they had
reached the seat of government,, and afler all, leave the Province wea
ried with delay and disappointinent. There appears great apprehen
sion on the part pf some of the witnessesses examined by the commit
tee, that if the price of land were reduced, much of it might be purcha
sed by speculators, to the manifest injury of emigrants; and other per
sons of limited means ; but this danger can easily be avoided, by ma
king actual residence on tbe lot, a condition of sale, and by limiting
the quantity sold to each individual. It has frequently happened in va-,
rious townships that lots are found to contain a much less quantity of
land, than that at which they were disposed uf by the Comniissioner,
and it would seem tbat no discretion is left with hiin in such case, the
committee conceive that in all instances of this nature, no greater num
ber of acres should be paid for by tbe purchaser, than the lot is found
to contain, by a competent surveyor, whose oertificate might safely b^
received as proof.
To prevent the possibility of corrupt practices on the part of the Dis>
frict Agents, or wbat is termed by sorae .of the witnesses favoritism,
the committee would recommend the appointment by his Excellency
the Lieutenant Governor, of a Board of three or more respectable in
habitants in each District, whose duty it should be to decide on all
disputed cases which might arise between the Agent and any appli
cant or applicants, for the purchase of lands j this arrangement the'
committee think, need not to be attended- with expense, as it ispresdm-
ed that few persons would refuse to sacrifice a sraall portion of time,
to promote the settlement-of the country. By such a salutary system,
no complaints would be heardirom contending applicantsj a^ is at pre
sent the case, peace and confidence would be restored, and every settlw"

APPENDIX. gQS
Sesirous of purchasing land pf the Gpyernnaent, mljjht depend on id
itiaraediate Ipcation, free from the heavy charges wbich he is iipw liabl^
to bear either bytl^e empl^ymieht of an ageht at the seat of Gbvern-
beiiti dr by urideftaking a joul-rtey ihitherhiiHsislf, and very frequently
in both ways, ydiir conimittee ard iif dpiiiidii that the busjiiess ofthe
public dffices shduld lie; sp sondiicted, that eVfei-y individual having
to correspond with the head of a .dbp^rtraent, might be able to dbtairi

ComtViittee Roonl, 16tH March, 18-36.,
bftlCkETj . , , ,
Tliie iiatjonal character is as much ihfltieiieed by its games; as Ijy i^
&oDgs ; it is therefore with the greatest pleasure I have witniessed, du
ring these two last -years, tHe Establishment pf many maiily Britisli
games, in several parts of the Province: Cfirling aa a winter spert,
and Hiirling ahd Cricketipg iri Sunnmer. They are em'inenijy calcii-
iated to cement that affection fdr tiie parent state which every BritisK
subject should arderilly chefisli : tHey bring forcibly to the recolltefctioli
thehdmes df diir youth ; the .sterling character ofour peasildtry i the
warm bower-like village, with its venerable Gothic chiirch ; the yew
trees sha^e, where heaven the turf in iriany a mouldering .lieap^*' over
ihe graves where dUr forefathers are coiriniingled in the Jialldwed dust }
the pretty cdttage sjandiiig beside the village green with the moss rdse
biish and the sweet briar before it, and the fragrant tendrils of the
iioney-sucklfe climbing over it; and thus by recalling to our remem
brance these attractions and endearing associations, creating a power
ful bdnd of fellowship and national feeling irt tl^e Province^ which no-
ihing can weaken or destroy. There are Cricke^ Cliibs at Toronto^
Niao-ar'a, Hamilton, Ancaster, Gufelph,- Brantford^ Woodstock, &c.
Vhere this fine did British Spdrt is pratstiSed with great spirit.
MEAN TEJJIl^ERATURB AT ANCASTEBj 1836. , , , g
ThermdraeterSin a northern aspect atid shaded from the effects df
direct radiation dr insolation. ^^. „j ^^_
jany. mean, 26.08° max. 39®. tnm. 0»
Feb., 1^.14® |a« 9°
lyiarch, . 3mf„ 530 0-

July, 67.2<lo S5= ,.??l,^^i,
Aurora Bor^alis very hrilUant and frequent ; thuiider pd hghtnitf^
^arl. The tertian intervals, of which Martin speaks, is apphcshle
both to intense cold and scorching heat, but they are no , «« Je SUites.
iiniform. Daring the last winter an intense frost continued wiihouj
"he least abatement for ten days ;.and in the summer of l|34, theffloj
Sultry heat almost ever felt, extenSed, twice, over a period of 7 dtif ft

^B

APi*E-N'DtX.

' MsMBEiEi's Bf the
&ittgary, McDonell, Chisholm.
Slorimont, McLeati, McDpnell. '
' Cornwall, Jaryis.
Preseptf, Hptham, Kea'rnes.
Riissdi, McKay:
' Garleton, Lewis, Mallnch.
Lanark, Powell, Cameron.
Dundas, Cook, Shaver,
' Orenville, Norton, Well.S.
. Leeds, Gowari, Jones.
Brockville, Shetwopd.
Kingston, Hagerman.
Frontenac, Matthewson, Mark^.
Prince EdwardtBockuSjArmsttong
Lenox ^ Addington, . Cartwright,
Detlor.

House op AsSEM*Lf .
4 Ridings of York, Morrisdn, M&^^
Ihtoshf (jribsdf), Thompson.
Toro«<o,' 'Draper.
Simeoe, Robinson, Wickins.'
Niagara, Richardson:
4tRidings of Lincoln, W&odruffjRy-"
kert, McMicking, Thprfaurn.
Hamilton, Ferrie.
Wentworth, McNab, Aikmaii.-
AiaZtow, Chishplm, Shade. ,.'
Norfolk, Rplph^ Duneomb'ej "
Haldimand^ Merritt.
Oxford, Duncombe, Alway.
Middlesek, JParke, Mooire.
London, Burwell.
Kent, McCrae,fCdrnwaH.
Essex, Prince, CaldwelL
Huron, Dunlop.

Hastings, Manahan; Murney.
' Nortltumberland,tiuttnn, McDonell.
J9arAam, Ellidtt, Bdiilton.,
ilna?ysi».— ^22 cotinties retiirrt 3 members eaeh^ - - 44*
3 do, 1 do. -' - - 3.
8 Ridings, 1 do. ^ - - 8..
1 city, , 1 dp. - - . ' J.
6 Towns, 1 ,dd. - - . 6i
For British Supriemacy and Monarchical Institutions, 44.
Fpr Repxblicariism and Elective Institntipns, - 18,
Conservative majerity, - r - . - - - -i-26l
List of the Clergy of tM^Estabtished Chureft of Scotland.

TORdNTol
Amherstburgh, George Gheyoe,
Aldborough, Alex. Rossj
Zorra, Donald McKenzie,
Gait, Jflhn fiaynej
,. Gfuelph, James Sraithi
Fergusj and Nichol, vacant.
St. T*hpmas, vacant,
Ancaster, M. Y. Stark,
Hamnton,^ A. C. Gafe,
Niagaraj Robert McGilt,
Thorold, Angus Mcintosh,
Esquesingr Feter Fergusson,'
Oakville, — Murray, ]
Streetsville, Wm. Rintoul',
Toronto Township, Andrew Bell,
Caledon^ —McMillan,
'l*iornntp.city,W. T. Leach^
Vaughan, P. McNanghton, ' .
-Newmarket, Henry Gbrdon, ' '
'^arbffrotjgh, Jaraes George,
Wr Gwillimsbury, Wm. McKiUcan

¦ KINGSTON.
CoboiSrg, James Alexander,
Feferborough, John M. Roger,.
Otanabee, A. Cdlqiihoun,-
Belleville, James iLitchen,
Kingston, John Machar.
BATH0KSTi
Brockville, — Campbelf,
Perth, Thos. 0. Wilson,-
Bytown, John Cruikshanfe,
Ramsay, — Fairbairny
Smiths Falls, George Romanes;.
Beckwith, — Smith,
Perth, Wm. Bell,
GLENGARRY.
Cornwall, HughUrquhart,
Martintewn, — Connell,
Williamstown,. John McKen^ie,.
Lancaster, A. McNaughton^
Lochiel, J. Mclsaae

APPENDtX. 2gy
List of the Clergy of tht Episcopal Church of Upper Canada

Lord Bishop of Gluebec,
The Venerable George O'Kill Stewart, L L
Kingston.

D., Archdeacon pf

The Honorable and Venerable John Strachan, D. D.. L L D '
leacon of York. r '.' , u. u. 17. ,

Archdeacon pf York
Daraestic Chaplain, Reverend Samuel J. Lpckh art
ENDOWMENT >
No. Acres.
Geo. Archibald, Cornwall,
John Anderson, Fort Erie,
A. N. Bethune, Cobourg,
Robert Blakey, Prescott,
E. J. Boswell, Dalhousie,
Mark Burnham, St. Thomas,
Cochrane, Belleville,

Thomas Creen, Niagara,
James Clarke, St. Catharines,
James Coglan, Port Hope,
Job Deacon, Adolphustown,
Francis Evans, Woodhouse,
Saltern Givjns, Mohawk,
John Grier, Carrying Place,
G. R.T.Grout, Grimsby,
W. H. Gunning,Elizabethtown 400
Michael Harris, Perth, 400
William Leeraing, Chippawa, 400
J. G. B. Lindsay, Williamsburg400

John Miller, Ancaster,
James Magrath, Torontd,
Thomas Puller, Chathara,
Williani Macauley, Hallowell,
Henry Patton, Oxford,
Romaine Rolph, Osnabruck,
 Rodgers, Richmond,
John Strachan, C. Toronto,

ENDOWMENT. J\ O n.C r 6 ft'
410 Joseph Thompson, Oavaii, 400
Samuel Armour, Peterborough,400
D. E. Blake, Adelaide, 400
B. Cronyn, London, 1892
E. Delroche, Brockville
E. H. D'Olier, Peterborough,
W. Johnston, Sandwich,
P. Mayerhoffer, Markham,
G. Mortimer, Vaughan, ,
P: Mack, Amherstburgh,
J. Padfield, March, .
A. Palmer, Guelph,
W. Bettridge, Woodstpck,
R. Hood, Carradoc,.
Thomas Phillips, Etobicoke,
R. D. Cartwright, Kingston,
J. Radcliffe, Warwick, .
J. Short, Richraond,
Henry J. Grassett, Toronto
Usher, Barton,

400
,400 450400
400 418400
, 400436 164
1202 400
400 400

400
400 400
400450400
400800
400
700

400 400 200 105
400
413 400435
205 400
400

G. Geddes, Harailton, 400r
R. Lugger, TVIohAwk Village,
Nelles, L M..G. River.
W. McMurisay, I. M. St.- Marie,
Adara Elliott, Travelling M.
O'Neill, T. Missionary
Harper, T. Missionary,.

and a T. Missy, in L. District.

James Atkinson, Bath,
G. O'Kill Stuart, Kingston,
There are also other endowments for Churches not yet erected : 400
acres in Thorold, 300 in Louth, 350 in Fredericksburgh, 400 in Ernest
Town, '400 in Williarasburgh,400 in Goulboiirn and, Fitau-oy, 416 in
Clarke, 400 in Darlington, and 420 inlnnisfil. - '
Although a seventh part of the Province was actually reserved for
tbe endowment of a protestant Church, by an act ofthe Imperial Parlia
ment ; and although the Government- recognize the exaction of tithe
jn the Lower Province by the Catholic priesthdpd frdm their respective
cungregatidns, .yet a great deal pf discreditable elamdurwas got up
by villainous deraagogues in this Province, in consequence df the
abdve sraall reservation ; as if, fersppth, the endowment ef a church
«ya» tlie establiahihent pf a tithe f The only bubjecj for regret was that

86ft APPENDIX.
thf Presbyterian church, Scotland being an integri^ part ofithe Brit^l^
dominions, was not similarly endowed ; thd^e who are aS conversant
with the ppliticalcharacter of Daniel O'Cpnnell, as myself, know that
it has beeni one of his most darling objects and favoritia sctiennes, the
0Btabliahiiient of glebes for thie QathoUc prie'stbodd iti Ireland.
X am, as I have always been, strong!^, opposed to that coitnection
between the Church ^nd State whicit teaches the former to rely more
on the latter for Bt^pport, than tq its own usefulness and the affection of-
^he people : lieverthelesa, a decent niaintenance of the Clergy, fro,m a
eource which impqseQ no tax upon the people, is vvell calculated tq
fsiirb the ambition pf Ecclesiasticis in their pursuits of d^tlies^ and
wouldstrip religion jtself of those meretricious appen^a^es that have
^een its passport to the fa voir of the world. ¦ "
The OathoKe Chureh in this Province is presidedover by the Hon. and
|tt. Rev. Alexander Macdon.ell, D. D. Lord Bishpp of KiRgsto^.
Kt. RevJ Rsmi^ius Gaulin, D. D. Bishop pf Tabracra.
The VBry Bey. W. P. Macdonald, Vicar General, !Pytown,
The very Rev. Ang^s Macdonell, Vicar iGfeneral, S^ndwicb-r-and SOi
Priests, In addition to the following stateraent, t^ere are at present 3^
phurches, and in cdiirse i]\ferec^iqn: Churches at Haniilton, Paris, Wa-,
terlpo Township, in the Newcastle District, and in the Hdme District.
Bishop Macdbnsll bas lo^g desired to erect a College for the education
of youth for the Priesthood, on a beautiful and oonimanding piece of
ground, skirted by a finegrqye of lofcy and majestic pines, oyerlookins
thejown and suburbs of Kingston, together with the St. Laiir^enc^ an^
nkft Ontario, and their lively islands.  '
CLERGY.
Very Rev. Dr. Macdonald, R«v. Jno. CMaidy, Rav. 3-. McDdDald^
1^»:. J. MnDonough, Bishop McDoneU, Rev. W. P. Mc^onelfc
Rev. James Chaoi{>ion, Rev. — Poillrt, Very Bay. A. Mcponeft
Rev. Jno. Batler, Rev. — Gordon., Rev. Dsiiiet Downie,
Rev. G. DelaHaye, Rev. M. Brennai^ Rev. J. Keegan,
Rt Rev. Dr. Gaulip, Rev. M. Lalpr,' Rev. J. Lostrie,
|tav. P. S^cDo^ough, Rev, Ja;. Rannett, Rev. — Morin,
A.Cenm» ofthe Catholic PapulaUifn oJ Upper Canada; 1834.^
J^kujiernDjatrict—rMission i^-St. Raphaels. PoBufatipn.
\Fhatawnihipa of Charlottenbiirgi Linicaster, Keoyop, and llie Indkn '
'. Raaef voj two vhifrchesj 4 ?65i
Mission of ^t. 4n(£:etos^ ^
The towDihipi «^f GorDwall, Rozbaro', , Wi"i«p»bufgf Pipch, Osna-
bruak) and B|at\lda, (wo cburcbea,, . - ? 3 587
Otfatoa Districtr-jaSss^^ qf Longeuil
tha Se^nory of Longei^il, Petit Nation," part of Hawkabi^ry; Gal*^
' doBiia and FlaDtagenel, two isburcbea,  £554
•fahnstowfi Disirictr—r.Mission of Prescott and Brockville.
f rasoott, BrookviUe, tb« townabip* of Augusta, Eli^abetbtown, Bm-
tVd «n4 Killay, two 9lmrcl(aa, " 1,62a
Bathurst District — Mission of Bytown.
f 'aw'*!! W«P«»n. Goulbiirn, fisekwitb, H^maay, Hg<(iley, «Qd

APPENDIX.

26t:

S,35et

' Mission of Perth.
PIgjstay, Bathurcl, Drummond. Dalhousie, Darling, Lanark, Pakenham
f azroy and Maonttb, one church, «-aKennain,
o-K . .¦ ^¦^''"""'^ Disirirj-Miasign of Kingston. '^*^
Tbe tpwnshipa or King.lon, Piltsburg', UHd^T loughborough, Port. '
Und, lala ofTanii and Lone Island, ihtee churches, "* a .«,
. ¦ c.J^"^i"""'" district— Missiifn of BelleviHe. ^' "*
troelowtishipaQf rvendin-iga, Thqriow. Sidiiey, .Murray, Margioraand
' Madoc, four cborche?, , *' \t lia."!
„ , „ J^eweastle District— Misibn of j€terboro> .
|Jan|ilt(W, Ifopp, Mpnaghan, Cavnn, Drqmraer, Asphodel, Qlonabee,
Dourq, ^milh. Inisfil, .Eirjily, Qps ai^d Thorah, two chqrphea, 3 584
Home District— Mission of Toronto. "'
The city qfTarftnlo. ip.wrnships of York, Scarboro', Pickering, Dar-
tinglop, Markham, VVbilphqrch, E. and W. Pwillimsbury, 2 Churches 3,240
Mission of Adjalo.
yaughan, Alhisn, Adjalp, Tecumseth, Monp, Caledon, Ohinguacouay,
and Gore of Toroqto, twp c|\urchei|,
Mission of the Townships of TororUo and Txafalgax.
^o^p^to, Trafalgsf, Blolsqn, Na^sego.iyeya, E«c(uesin,g, 785
Mis'sion of Penetanguishine.
¦ P'Oi Qri|la, Tiny, Tay^ Blqdonte, fla.s, Vespra, Siinnidale apd ColdwRtef, 856
Gore Disirict-T^Mission of Guelph andD^ndas.
Wentiyprlb, Flamborp', DumlVies, Beverly and Waterloo, twp churches, l,531f
' Niagara Disirict^Miasioh of Niagara. '
Niagara, HaldihiaBd, Lincoln, and Pfoffolk, two churches, 2,040t
Lpndon District — Mission of London and St. Thomas.
^anqoulh, SouthwoM, Westminster, London, Lobp, Carradoc, Ade-
r laidQ, (goderich an4 S{. 't'hjO.inas,- Hvpchurcbps,,
Western District — Mission.pf thd River Thames.
flainden, Chatham, Dover, Sombra, River St. Glair, '^'ilbury E. and W. (8e) 8,600i
Mission of Sandwich.
Itocbestar, Maidstone, and Sandwich, 4:,724
Hfissiar^ of Amherstburgh.
The Huron reserve, tpwnships of Maldon, Colchester, Gosfield, Metsoa .j-''-'-''
and Romney, ' ' ' ' ¦ .gf* ; !|,58a
The London and Gore Rail Road. '
There are few projects afloat throughout the Prifvinc^, so likely ta
prove advantageoiis to the country, and profitable to,th.ojje who carry.-
;t into efifect, as tli.e Rail Road from Hamilton, at tb%he^;oflake Onr

t|rib, to London. It would ensure thetrade qf the We^H^n and Lon-i
don Districts being carried to lake Ontario, instead of being diverted
by the Brie canal from it altogether : it would passthjia^-h the rich
and flourishing towns and townships of jAncaster, l^btford, Beech
ville, Ingersoll, Oxford, to, London, 80 iroiles from Hamilton; thence
to Chatham dn the lovely Tharpea, 70 miles farther ; and finally termi
nate at Sandwich, 58 miles farthei^dn the west; passing tbi-dugh the
inost prolific portion of the Province, inducing travellers to the far west,
to take up their location on the route, from tbe unequalled advantages it
nnfol^s to their view. Any individual Ipbking at the map will find that
Kingston, attheextrenittypf lake Ontarip, is nearly on a parallei'with
Sandwich, on lake St. Clair, taking Hamilten in the intermediate dist
ance ; iind since Utica has been connected with Albany by rail road„
jha saving of tin^e ftejn New York to the west, to the traveller, by this

3,53ft

?70 APPENDIX.
route, would be at least three' days. The Province of Upper Canada
Duglit to be greatly interested in its completion.
Timber Trade, taken from the Report oj the Committee.
In 1835, the amount in tons of, exports from Quebec, was 540,254,'
value sterling .^1,037,287.
In the yearl829, there were.cleared from the Province 1005 vessels,.'
measuring- 253,9S2tpns, manned by 11,449 seamen, of which
Clear&dfor the United Kirigdnm,
745 vessels, 320,086 tons, laden with timber, &I do 13,302 tons, goods.
Cleared for other parts,— '2BQ vessels, 20,624 tons, laden with tim
ber, fish, flour, provisions, ^c.
In 1825, there were cleared 1266 vessels, measiiring 341,216 tons,
^manned by 14,806 seamen, . of which o/earec? /or </«« United Kingdom,
987 vessels, 305, 571 tons, laden with tiraber; 56 do 15^015 do goods.;
Cleared for other parts., 243 vessels, ^,630 tons,, witb timber, fish, &e.
Iti order to estimate the loss that vvould result from the blow aimed at
the trade, your committee have endeavored to ascertain the value of the
property embarked in it The information received varies a good deal,
but the amount pf capital permanently invested is probably. not overra
ted at £150,000. One of the gpntlemen applied to has transmitted a*,
list of the various saw mills in Upper and Lower Canada, whose pro
duce is exported frora the St. Lawrence; and of the lumber pstabliish- .
pients and ship-yards in t^abec, apparently compiled with care and
accuracy, which he values as follows:
Saw tinifis estimated to cut annually 3,000,000 pieces of deals .£316,700
Lumber atid ship building.establisliments, 120,000
the value pf riyer craft estimated at 12 to £20,000, assume it to be 15,000
And the tntal value of property permanently engaged in the business
may be stated a' £45l-,700' currency ; the capital engaged in this
branch of trade differs from that in many others ; it cannot be with
drawn or diverted into other channels without a heavy sacrifice, and
in the event ofthe proposed alteration in the duties taking place, your
committee entertaid no doubt that a great part of the property must be
come pf little value, and the amount invested in saw millsj, booms, ^e.
Wduld be nearly a total loss. ,
The number of persons in these Provinces who derive their subsists
ence, directly or indirectly, by manufacturing, transporting and ship
ping lumber, is estimated at twenty-four thousand, amongst whom a
large amount is yearly distributed in wages and provisions, and all the
accounts transmitted to your committee, concur in stating that, the
curtailment of, the trade would be most severely felt by these people,.
there being no occupation in the country to which tbey" could, immedi
ately betake themselves. Your committee- are warranted inestima-
tiiig the amount of ship's disbursements for pilots, labourers, $>hipcar-
ipenters and pther tradesmen, at the port^of (Quebec and Montrealv at
£150,000 per annum, and the loss thereof or the. proportion consequent
pin the great decrease in the nuniber of shipping iarrivingat the,se pprts,
would be severely fek by the resident population. -Your committeare
of opinion that the timber trade is further of essential service to these
Provinces, by affording the means of cheap conveyance frdm thetlni-

Ai-i^ETJOlX gij^
-ted tingdom- and thereby promoting emigration, and to the emigrants
themselves equally serviceable, in addition.to cheap conveyance, hV
,.]^roviding employment for them at good wages imiliediately on theiV
•arrival, whereby -many obtain funds for the purchase of lands which
their previous occapation bas fitted them to clear. Nor would the in jury
,-lo the Province, arising ftom the diminution ofthis branch of busiues^
be confined to the effectual stop which it would put to emigration from
'.the United Kingdomfo this Province, it would esiend to all classes of
•the cdinmunity. The information furnished to your committee clearly
proves, that Jn many parts of the Province, and more particularly in
the Districts of Gluebec and Three Rivers, the small farmers largely
idepedd for their subsistence during winter, as well as for thepuVchase
'of seed corn, dn thcfpioduce of their logs, and that when failores of
•Crops baye occurred, tbe distress without this resource must have been
•very great. Your committee further submit that the ti-ade is df great
'Service -ra the Province, by the inducement which it holds out to the'
¦formation of settlements in the distant parts ofthe country by opening
<roads, diminishing the expense of clearing forest lands, and affording to'
•the farmers a market for their surplus produce at their own door.
Some idea may be formed of the House of Assembly which Sir F.
.Head dissolved, from the fact of 7 of their number having given the
¦fbliowing vote 011 the Timber Trade ; ¦
Kesolved," That it is incumbent on this House as the representatives
of the people of Upper Canada, to urge upon bfs Majesty's ministers,-
'the great iinpoTtance of continuing the protective duties on the timber
trade of these Provinces-^and to point out the ruinous consequencesf
'that must resiilt to this most important branch ofour commerce, should
•these duties be reduced in favor pf foreign importatipns intp fhe United
Kuigdom. Yeas, 32. Nays, Messrs. Duncombe, Durand, Hopkins, Macken
zie. McMicichig, Morrison, Thorburn, 7.
The- question of amendment was carried in the affirmative by a ma
jority of 35.
INDIANS;
I had long felt an earnest desire to witness the Indians at their def-'
- Motions, and taking advantage pf the beautiful slate ofthe weather, and
the exceflleftt sleighing, I made one of a patty, in company with the
Messrs. Sutefs, on Sunday, Feb. 14, to the Mohawk Church, near
Brantford. The Mohawk Indians are a portion of those tribes of ,Ih-
¦ dians. Who came over- to the Province from the United States, whenf
the latter separated from the Mother Cottntr^, they possess, therefore,
double claim on the attention and respect of the Government. The
- Chureh in Which tbey worship in the Mdbawlc village, is a frame build
ing sul'mounted by a spire, it is situated on the very verge ofthe Grand
River^ and from its being painted white, may be seen from the high
r grounds abpve theriverj fpr a considerable distance, aud forms, togeth-
¦ er with the windings of the river, and its well wppded banks, a very
picturesque scene. The Indians paid the greatest attention to the ser
vice, the sermon was interpreted to (hem, sentence by sentence, by an
jRterpreter, an Indian, who was sfatidned by the Clergyman, and also'

2t2l AptENbtX.
ticted as clerk. The sijiiaws sUng the hyms very sweetly aftti IiSrfiitf-
tiiously, and the whole service was well calculated to produce a pow
erful emotipn. The British government have done,. and are still doing,'
iill they can to instruct,. -etevate^ bivilize them; On observing the
King^ Arms at one end of the Church, I could not suppress a wish,
which rose spprttane^emsly in my heartj that there they might long re
main a shield and protection to the unfdrtilnate Indians, whoj in their,
ardent love and attachment td Great Britain might catise the blush of
shame to mantle in many cheeks, and who duly atid [iriiperlf estim'dte
a,nd appreciate the fostering, sustaining; parental, protecting Gdvern-
Dient to whom they are so intimately allied,. At the cldse of the ser
vice an infant was brought to the altar to be baptized;^ it wa£ swathed
tip in a basket cradle formed like a canoej with a hoop at the top by
which the.child is recked in an uprigbt positioni It was gaily bedizen
ed with trinkets^ and clad in scarlet and blue; Tlie parents' were de
cently attired, and seemly properly impressed Wth this, first and most
indispensible of Christian ritesi After service we glided aldng mer
rily in our sleigh^ and dined at the tavern of Mrj Love^oy; 1 was so
much. gratified with thia' visit, that I made pnef of another party, oo
Sunday, Feb. 28th, tP the Tuscarora village; We left the village of
Ancaster at eight o'clock, the tlitrmometet- being then, only 4 degre'^s
above zero, although the morning was bitterly Cold, the sun shonje
bright^ the atmosphere witbdUtacloud, and the sky of the most lovely
blue. The sleighing was superior to arty thing 1 hafl.ever witnessed
before during three winters. ¦ The road to thisvillage is ten miles from
Ancaster, on the same route as that to Brantford, but ori coming to
Fairchilcl's creek, the road turns off to the lef>^ before {Massing over thei
new bridge erected over tbat creek ou the Mohawk road. The road
then winds for some distance along the banks of that creek passing
some of the finest flats I have seen in the .Proviricej thS timber covering
them being ofthe best quality and largesEt growth— maple; beech, elin,
oakj.hiccory, and cherry,' interspersed .'occasionally with pine. After
pursiiing this course throiigh the wood a few miles, we carne suddenly
on the banks ofthe Grand Riverj -which are here not very high, but
perpendicular, the windings df the river can be seen both above and
: below for some 'distance. A mile and a half further is the Tuscatgiat
Village, cdnsisting pf seve'ral log bouses, a large schoolhouse, also Used
as a Church. The country here is vei-y extensively and excellently
cleared on both sides of the river for a Considerable distanfce : the al
luvial flats on the banks off the river are cultivated with Indian corn and
the uplauds with vrheat, ry6, and other grain. The settlement here
seems very flourishing and creditable to them.
I regret much that from my firal arrairgement,- as wsjt m from the hn'rry and incdn-
venience orpublisbing* wotk in a newspaper office, in the sbort space .of aht weeks;
1 am precluded from^iving a mass of ntatler wbich I have collected relative to tber'
fost. Office— ^PreSs — Criminal Statistics — Kingston & Toronto Hospital Reports-
Extent of Travolkd Roada — Advice to Pour Em'jgrants — Indians, &ci &c. bhbiiM
(bis account, however, meet the approbation of the public, I wi^ir eitbOr give IfaessC
narticMlnrs in a^upplement, or in- a new edition, IsaviDgoutthefew-cbapterB cnrtbtf
-West -Indies.. v

¦StPPtEMEI^TARY ACCOU]^!-.
INDIANS.
\ have slated in liny account of the Tuscarora settlerhehl, thai thi
teountry, was extensively and excellently bleared oii both sides pf thd
River, the printer forgot to insert, entirely by the Indians. They boll
their service in the School-house at present, but a spacious Church ii
in progress of erection. The Christians df the Mohawk and Tuscaror*
tribes, located on this river, belong tp the Episcopal Church of Eng
land. The pastor, ofthe la^er tribe, the Rev. Mr. Nelles, is the son
of a very old settler in the Province, and is.a young man of exemplary
deportment, and unassuming manners. He informed me that there
were about 2,300 Indians belonging to the Six Nations, and that the
greater pdrtipn of them were still Pagaii, preserving their several rites,
observing their quarterly festivals, and sacrificing annually a white dog.
It wduld seem, froni the pefindsi selected for their festtvalsj that they
worship the sun, as the source of fertility and light. Mr. NelleS read
the prayers with much fluency, in the Mohawk language; He introJ
duced rae, after service, to the Chief of the Seneca tribe, who is call
ed the Fire-keeper, whose province it isto light tbeir council fires, and
without whose authority a council cannot be.convened ; be was a most
Venerable looking, white haired old man, of tall statpre, distinguished
by a black hat, broad ribbon, ahd blue coat ; cloth leggihs cased hia
lower limbs', and on his feet were the light moccasin^ of deerskin, dr-
liamehted with porcupine quills. He had nPt hiinself fembi'aced Chris
tianity, but advised all those, over whdm he had any influence^ td at
tend and listen to the instructions pf thp Christian teacher: His re
luctance to embrace its doctrines, arose from his disinclinatidtl td foi-.
low its precepts, by abandoning the doctrine of pplygamy, WhiCh hei
piactised. Mr. Nelles is principally supported in his interesting labors
by a society established as far back as the reign of Charles IL forth^
express purpose of civilizing and propag'ating the gospel among thei
Indians. The Indians had also given him fifty acres df fine land, for a
glebe, on which he has erected a very comfortable habitation, situated
qn the banks of the river, and in the midst of tbem, in order the<Sbet-
ter to prosecute his praiseworthy undertaking. The Mohawk Indians
have; preserved the communion plate given to them by Q,uee:n, Aniie^
part of Which is kept at the Mohawk village, and the. remaining portion
at the Mohawk settiemeiit, in the Bay of C^uinte. Mr, Nelles regret
ted that his interpreter, whom he described as an iiitelligent man,- was
«bsent, having accompanied a deputation of the Indians to Torontia,' to
present a loyal and congratulatory address to Sir F. B. Head, thei
iiew Governor. A catechist, of whom Mr. Nelles also sppke very fa»
Vorably, addressed theifi in their own language with considerable flu
ency, his expressive gesticulations seemed an earnest df his fervor ana
seal. Some ofthe Indian youths are receiving a course of instruction^
iQ the Mohawk village, from proper teachers, in the English lai)ging«^
§3

^OPPLEMENtARY AtJCOtJST.
*lill maintaining sufiicient intercourse with the Chiefs and amongst tftei»»
vetves, as to retain a perfect knowledge of the Indian language, whilst
die great object is strictly attended to, their complete attainment of the
Soglish. Amongst the numberless acts of benevolence with which
the Hon. Mr. Dunn's career has abounded, be bas undertaken to be
the guardian of six youths, carefully selected from amongst the In
dians, whp are to be educated at tbat invaluable inslifiition, the Uppe*
Canada College, for the sacred character of Indian Missionaries.-^
Xhey will be under bis immediate, personal surveillance. Greatly to
his honor, be hasalways taken tbe roost warm and lively interest in
tbe welfare of the aborigines of the country. The squaws were more
«legandy detrerated with" trinkets and finery than those we bad seen at
the°jViohawk Church. They sang very harmonionsly, and it was really
a roost a&cting scene to witness the intense devotion of these red men
and women, raising their voices in loud canticles to their great Crea
tor, in the following appropriate and pathetic hymn.
Blest is the tie that binds
Our hearts in Christian love :
The fellowship of kindred rainds
Is like to tbat above.
Before our Father's throne
We pour united prayers.
Our hopes, our fears, our aims are one,
Our comifbrts and oar cares.
We share our mutual woes.
Our mdtual burdens bear,
,And often for each otber flows
The sympathyzing tear.
Mr. Nelles informed me diat tbe Church was thinly attendiSd that
day. Usually a large number of Pagan Indians frequent the service^
and even join in it ; but the day being so beautiful, and the riter firmly
ftszen, and perfectly smooth, with a coat of snow on it, many of the
Indians were enjoying tbeir different games on the ice, some racings
some throwing sticks at a mark, at a long distance, and other amuse
ments peculiar to the -winter solstice, which is, indeed, a period ef greafE
iberr-iment with them. The Mohawk language is Understood tn^ the
whole Six Nations ; the vernacular langdage ofthe tribes, pgcalhH- to
themselves. On thrsacconnt, Mr. NeHes was nsivg his utmost endea-
-vprTsto acquire a perfect Knowledge ofthe Mohawk iangnage, and'tic-
eemmodating himself to the habits, customs, mannersj and prejudieefS:
ofthe people, amongst whom he is so worthily engaged. It is gratify*'
iSg- to reflect *bat the British Government are, at length, qtiile aensibte
that tbe proper method of reclaiming tbe Indians from their savags'
etstBi is tbat recommended by St. Paul, "being all things to all men^
to win 6ome to Cbrist," and uniformly adopted by the persecuted and
caluntniated sotis df St. Ignatius, whose Dnwea'ried labors amongst tbe
savagfe tribes, were always abundantly crowned"" with success : their
sstoi^shing exertioim in Sooth Amerii^t in converting the Indians iiit»;
fBiflt, ioduetfioiis, temperate peopfe,^^ ieuMvatlnf tbe s&i), tescMaf

SUPPLEMENTARY ABCODNT.
t^ema knowledge pfmany mechanical arts, together with , rt„»
»P rehgu.n, "whose ways are ways of pleasantnl?. i uu "*"'•
are peace." caushig it t^ shed its'benigr iXnre'UTr thS'n'LP eM
Iwe?, are enduring monuments of their pietV and ^i.- P'^S?,^*'
happy state of things was brought aboTt by L r 'assffiy atid zeal'
and the narration, interesting and beautifulas it is, isTndSd doublv
SO, in Its relation,.by that extraordinary andeminent ffenii^ Ch«tP»^
bnand. and tlie elegant and pious MurWi. The enteSng „«''»:
ive impi-essed my mind too powerfully to allow me Tpass ft u™^
tors,, like Mr. Nelles, who, by unwearied assiduity, and tbeir own ex-
,?mplary lives and conversation are so well calculated to convert a
savage ra<;e of being., from heathenism to Christianity, and by uni^
.form«y of conduct, continue to preserve both their religion and them.
selves w the esteem of tbeir converts. The Catholic Priesthood in the
Wer Provmce, and on- the Red River settlement, have been extreme
ly zealous and successful in their exertiws amongst the Indians, an
examp e worthy of imitation, and amounting to an incontrovertible
proof tbat nature, in her most degenerate state, mav be reclaimed' by
those who are sincere in their endeavors, gentle in their manners, and
consistent in tbe general tenor of their behaviour. And it is to be ex
pected, and certainly most ardently to be wished, that their natural
fondness for wat and slaughter, may in time be more effectually sub
dued, their natural impetuosity softened and restrained, andtheir minds
weaned from thejr unhappy attachment to the. use of strong liquors— a
curse entailed on them by their white brethren-^their indulgence in-
w hich is freq^iently attended with the most melancholy and- fata;l con
sequences. It is certainly singular that thousands of" pounds sbould
%e annually squandered away, in a variety of professed philanthropic
iShemes, and yet in our own immediate vicinity. Pagan Indians are
offering up bteody sacrifices, on whom, by kind instruction, and proper
tneans, tl^best impressions might; be made. Ea sub oculis positan^e-
gUgimusii proximorum mcuriosi, longingua s-ectamur.. Interested, pow-
eifully, by my visits, I made another in the month- of September, and
cpntinued strolling about the- banks of the river, until the close of day,
the ^enery was e.xquislte; as I was about leaving, the sky was aU
ready waxing grey, and a small twinkling spot ofgo'ldlbere and th&Jie
proclaimed appcpaching darkness, that subdued landscape which tlie
Britiah poet so feelingly describes :
"Now fades the glimmering landscape on ffie-si^t;
And all the air a solemn stillness holds."
^e purple and grey mingled into one. dim tint,, and star afler star
came out brighter and brighter, until it, became cprap,letely night, ti
agteed with some men td row me in a canoe, to Bryant's, tavern, and
was. [Q^uch charmed with the excursion-. The moon was just at hei;
highest nopn, and the sk.y was beautifully bright, except that ever and
^oon, a mass of fine fleecy eloudss-^wbicb myi^ietnd Rdbejt Bloomfield
described as. "tbe beaiiteous seroblanee cf a flock at rest,"— ditted avec
^e lovely orb, bke. a veil, screening her in sofland mocfost spleodoiiw;
ivam terreatcial gaze. The beauteoins rlvei^ gleaming tili&tnelt^ silver

dDPPLEMENTART ACCOUNT.
Ik'omitsdeHghtfhl effulgence, shown bigh and broken banks, certif
with dark majestic pines, whose swarthy limba cas| a deep, shadont
athwart the stream, the. only interruption to that sheeny briglitness. rest
fleeted from the moon. The cleared portions ofthe country exhi.bite4
in their rich undulations, over which Ihe eye was carried a great distv
ance, a fine contrast, as the moonbeams fell covering these acclivities
with soft and silvery light^ whilst the opposing slopea Were cast intOi
dark broad shadow. The whispering of the light breeze among the-
tree tops, in the groupes of islands^ scattered throughout the river,, an^
tbe paddle of the oars ofthe canoe, the athletic figU;i-e. of the- Indian^
seen occasionally at the head of his prowj. by ih.e l-urid glare, of the-
torchji withthe spear in bis hand, ready to strijte. tlie- iish, were the
only interruptions to the solemn effect of silence, and: salitude« and
|iight| and imparted an additional cbarm to. the scene. I could not
l-estrain the thoughts which the scene was so calculated to create. Not
(liany generations ago, on the banks ofthis river which now visits in itft
g]a^ end onward course the abodes of happ}' men^gardens and fields
i^tad cultured plains-^— still bearing as it passes, renewed fertility and
fresh delights, circled |with all the elements and improvements^ of a,
Rising province, with much of that whieh exalts and embellishes civi
lized life^ the rank thistle nodded in the wind, and the wild dog dug-
his hole unscared,. Here the wigwam blaze beamed on the tender and
helpless, the council fire glared on the wise and daring.- Now the In
dians dipped their noble limbs iu tbe peaceful basins ofthis lovely river,
and now they, paddled their light canoe along its shores. Here they
warred; the echoing- whoop, the bloody grapple, the defying death
pong all were here ; and when the tiger strife was over, here curled
the smoke of peace. Here, too, they also worshipped, and from many-
|i dark bosom went up a pure prayer to the Great Spirit. The poor
phild of nature knew not the God of revelation, but the God of the.
VOiverse he acknowledged in every thing around him. He beheld him'
in the star that sunk in beauty behind his lonely dwellingt in the sacred
pi^b tbat flamed on him from his mid-day throne ; in the flower that
iinapped in the morning breeze, in the' lofly pine that defied a thou^
^and whirlwinds ; in the timid warbler that never left its native grove,
jn the fearless eagle whose untired pinion was wet in clouds ; in- the'
worit^ that crawled at his fopt, and in his pwn matchless form, glowing*^
with a spark of that light to whose mysterions source he bent,- in hum-c
ble though blind adoration. But all this has passed away. Across the
pcean came a pilgrim bark, beariqg-the seeds pf life and death. The.
former -were sown for us, the latter sprang up in tlie path ofthe simple
native, ^wo hundred .years have changed the character of a grea^
continent^ atid blotted for ever from its face, a whole peculiar people^
Art has usurped the bowers of nature, and the anointed children of
educatipn have been too powerful for the tribes of the ignorant. Here
^nd there, a stricken few remain, but how unlike their bold, [untamed,
untameablp progenitors ! The Indian offalcon glance and lion bear
ing, the theme df the tduching ballad, the hero of the pathetic tale is
Ifone! and hisdegradedpflspring crawl upon the soil where he walked
m iJBsqesty, to remind us how miserable is man when the foot of the
tsioi^tieror isQQ bis neck. Asa race they have withered fram the Un4-,

SO^PLEMEMTART ACCOUNT.
^heir arrows are broken, their springs are driecl up, their cabins »A
in the dust. Their council fire has long since goni^out on the 4^
and their war cry is fast dyin? to the untrodden west V\Z^T^
*adly they climb the distant mountains, and read A^l; SZt^
tumn'ssettingsun, receding far behind Ihe western cloud which W™ta

n from our sight. Tbey are shrinkine before the mightv'tide whirih is
pressing them away ; they must soon hear the roar ofthe last wave.
which will settle oyer them for ever. -Ages hence, the inquisitive wlaiS

man, as he stands by some growing city, will ponder onthe stroctoj*
•ofitheir disturbed remains, and wonder to what manner of person tJney
telonged. Tlrey will live only irt the songs and chronicles of fteii
extirminators. Let these be faithful to tbeir rude virtues as mem, and
pay due tribute to their unhappy fate as people. Mr. Hodo-son's nw-
flections are as pathetic and beautiful, as true. After paying a visit td
the various tribes, he says— "I now bade a last adieu to Indian ifcemito-
ry ! and as I pursued my solitary ride through the woods. I insemsaW^
fell' into a train of melancholy reflections on the eventful history of*5«
injured race. Sovereigns from time immemorial, of the intermiwaWe
forests which overshadow this vast continent, tbey bave ffradtaallly
been driven, by the white usurpers of their soil» wi'ihin the'^limiitB of
their present precarious possessions. One after another oftheir fawjar-
ite rivers has' been reluctantly abandoned, until the range of the hiiMter
is bounded bylines prescribed by his invader, and Ihe independeiniDe asf
the warrior is no more. Even their present territory is "partitiaBascd
out io reversion ; and intersected with the prospective boundajiea of
surrounding parts, which appear in the maps as if' Indian title were ac
tually extinguished, and these ancient warriors were already driven
from the land of their fathers. Of the innumerable tribes.'wiiich afev
centuries since, roamed fearless and independent, in their native for
ests, how many have been, swept intp oblivion, and are wilh tiie gener
ations before the flood. Of others, not a trace remains but in tradi
tion, or the person of some solitary wanderer, the last of his tribe, who
hovers like a ghost among the sepulchre of his fathers-^— a spark still
faintly glimmering in the ashes of an extinguished race. . . . Itisnot
when we press intotbe wars df Christians, the tomahawk or scalping
knifeof the Indians — it is not when, deluging his country witb spiritu
ous liquors in the prosecution of an unequal traffic, we send f )rtb aa
aODoral pestilence, before which the frail virtues of the savage fall, like'
the dry leaves of his forests in the blasts of autumn — itis not when
thus engaged, that we either conciliate his aflections or elevate his
moral tone. The men who fertilize the moral wilderness and evangil-
ize the heathen world, are animated by a higher spirit than the desire
of conquest or the lure of gain." And surely we' are bound, having
participated in tbe wroogs inflicted on tbis injured race, to offer the
iioblest compensation in our power, by diffusing the blessing of moral'
and religious instruction, through the instrumentality of itioral and re
ligious instructors, throughout the aborigmes of the western world.
For the first time in the annals of Upper Canada, or, indeed, I may
add, British intercourse with the Indians,- the Hpuse of Assembly,
which was elected in this Prpvince in 183i, and happily for the Pro.";
Vln^^, disn^ssed by the determined indignation of an aroused anditt-t

SUPPtEMENTARY ACCOVST.
¦sited-people, whose intereata they had meat wantp{%.and wieked^
abandoned ; endeavored, amongst tbe many quarrels they |>i-pvo>ked»
fo enlist the Indians in difiiculties with the British government. It,j^
generally believed that tbe unprincipled agitator, Mackenzie, was the
priacipal mover in the aflair; how difiTerent from the humane and
Cbristian efforts of the Hon. Mr. Dunn in behalf of the Indians.— r-
Cwld not tbis restless demagogue be contented with disturbing, dis
tracting, cursing tbe farmers by his unceasing, pernicioas and pestifei;-
ons interference, but tliat be must also endeavor to divert tbe Indians
lirom their pi'ogressive improvement, to commence his trade and. spe
culation of agitation amongst them i Did be wish, in the revels-
lings of his depraved imagination, to see the scenes of Georgia and
Florida enacted in Upper Canada? Whether it wasso or not, despite
of tbe fiendish and diabolical machinations of speculating incendi^
xies, the Indians still love and cherish the British government, and
vill not quickly be alienated in their attachment. The following doci«-
Bients will show the exact state ofthe case, and I leave the reader
tamake his own deductions. Mackenzie presented tbe following pe
tition of Thomas Splitlog snd seven others, the head Chiefs and war
riors of the Huron or Wyndott nations of Indians, shewing : That from
limeimmemorial that nation has pdssessed withaat interruption a tra«^
of land, seven miles square, lying, between Sandwich and Amherst
burgh, and alsd an island called "-Fighting Island," nearly opposite^
Tbat tbey bave been unjustly deprived af the same by tbe Provincial
^vernment, whicb, at the instigation of George Ironside, superintend?
(int and others, conceded to tbe balf-'breed Indians who had no claim,
(hereon, these lands belonging to the proper Wyndots, and which- were
ceserved to be enjoyed by them after the manners and customs of
(heir forefathers^nthat tbey have frequently applied tothe Provincial
l^vernment and were informed that these things, were done with its-
consent, and their remonstrances were i;ejected— 4hat one Tboma^-
faxton has taken possession of "Fighting Island,'.' firom whose en-r
«roachments they, have not been protected by the King, whom tbey
vere always accustomed ' to consider their father and protector— tbat
these lands were ceded to them by the Chippewas and otbera (tlw
lake confederacy of Indians) and reserved at the sale of lands in- tbe
'Western district, for their use, witb a special request tbat they might
Qot: be disturbed iuthe possession of them— 4hat,, ia the year 1311, being-
9^rieved by the encnaachments of the white's, they petitioned Lieutv
Governor Gore, requesting hia Majesty would give them a deed in fee
^ their lands, who replied-tbat this was unpos^ibleT ?>s the Wyndots
l^mselves had the better title, assuring tbem at the same time, that
the K-tng would always protect them in the possession of their lands— ^
that tbey had peaceable possession ever since, till disturbed by. Iroor
4ide and others of Amherstburgh — and that tl^ government has brokect
through the i(sages and customs established by treating withthe half.
breeds, who only live ouc sufibrance. among thena-^bat they are sorely
^ieved lh.at the p^ptecting- hand of tbeir great father ^be King has. beeii
iKithdrawD from themi which Biu^ have arisen, th^y tbiQk» ftom the
O^eKftes^t^ttiona of some wicked persons, s?^iQg«)qfy to destroy
^m-nitb^it iB,«e9)QH»lMi^ 4re » Teama^t of m». of ^et. gq$al. mken v^ih*

StJfPLMMEfitASt ACCOONT.
%iBstem world, who from flghting from lime immenwrial «gaintt tb«
^emies oftheir great father, are now reduced t» a very small uZhTi
that they have long since been converted to the christian religion, and
wi«hto reside near their friends the white people, that thev have
idaily examples in the^ United States oftheir brethren beins driven ini*
the wilderness and hunted like the deer of the forest— but that linia
now they always had sufficient confidence in their great father to be^
lieve thathe Would not treat them as the red people were treated by the
government of the United Slates ; that they have ne desire to desert
the christian religion, and return to the customs and habits ofthe hea
thens; but that all their wish is, that their great father will leave them
in the undisturbed possession ofthe little handful of land that belortgn
td them. Memorialists pray the House to represent, by address,- theie
situation, to the King their great father, and to request him to inter-
fere in tbe proceedings of his provincial government against them, and
that he will prevent the said government from wresting tbeir little piece
of land away from them. Memorialists further state that there is a
¦small portion oftheir tribe residing in the U. Stateson lands possessed
by them before Jay's treaty— that they remained neutral during the
war for the sdte object df saving their lands , but that from the present
dispositldn nf the government and the people, they are anxious to re»
aiove once more into the cduntry df their great father, whom they al
ways loved, and that theirbrothers (the memorialists) are desirous of
receiving them ahd giving them cornfields along side of tbem, ontheif
little piece of ground : memorialists refer to accompanying documenla
in support of what tbey say, &c. &C.
THE ADbRESS op THE HOUSE Off ASSEMBftf.
To His Excellency Sir Francis Bond Head, K. C. H. &c. &c.
May -it please your Excellency :— We, his Majesty's dutiful and
loyal subjects, the Gommdnsof Upper Canada in Provincial Parlia-^
ment assembled, humbly represent to your Excellency, that Thomas
Splitlog, and others, chiefs and warriors of the Huron or Wyandott
natidn-^have by memorial to this House, complained of George Iron*
side, tbe Indian superintendent and others, for that they had iiistigatesf
die gpvernment to divide among and concede to the half-breed Indiana
not etititled thereto, a tract of land between Sandwich and Amherst-
burgh, eontaining about seven miles square, although the said Wyai!f*
dott nation had held and peaceably enjoyed the same from time imrflffi*
merial, and resided on the same, living after the custems and man*
Uers oftheir fathers. Tbat Fighting Island belongs td tbem, but ha*
been kept possession of by one Thomas PaJkton, who had, they say,
paid them no rent since a licence of occupation Was granted him by
the gpvernment. That they had made several applieatiows to the gpw
vernment fer its aid and protection, which had been denied them.—*
l^iatat the sale made to the government of the lands in flie Westemr
diB|iriet,the tract now attempted to tie taken from tbe said Wyandott
Indians, was specially reselTed fdr them, with a pjarticular request of
tbe Indians df the lake confederacyi Ihat the Etng i»nd hia offidefB
Wenld not disturb them in their possession ofthe same. They also prttf
(his House to enquire into the merits oftheir case, and if found deserv^
tolfe, teaSk ^tbytil ial«fftreace»il Iheif beba£^ ao tbat Bis gtmitS'

SUPPLEMENtARY AfcCOtj*«fj
bKHthere might be prevented "from wresting their little piece of lab^
away from them.'' We humbly request that your Excellency would
^vedirection that there be laid before this Hotise, all such dpcumenta-
ly and other evidence in the possession of the government or its ofiices
relative to the said Huron reserv^e or ofthe proceedings of the l^overn-
meot had thereon, as wduld enable this House to ascertain whether its
fiirther interference on the VVyandott Indians is required.
M. S. BIDWELL, Speaker.
Commons House of Aesembly, Feb. 15, 1836.
HIS excellency's beplt.
Gentleraen — It is with great reluctance I feel it necessary to staie^
that withdut authority from the Secretary of State, lam unwilling td
submit to the House of Assembly ''the documents and other evidence
in the possession ofthe government or its officers, relative to the Huron
reserve, or to the proceedings ofthe government had thereon, as would
enable the House to ascertain whether its interference on behalf ofthe
Wysmdott Indians is taquired." My objections on this subject, are.
those of policy, rather than of law-i-and without denying the constitu-,
tional right of either of the two Houses pf the Legislature to enquirei
into any subject in which they may consider the public interests td be
involved, I am of opinion that tbe disclosure of documents and evidence!,
of the character alluded to, would be attended with evil conseqencea
to those whom it is intended to benefit, by rendering the Indians doubt
ful ofthe all-sufficient and paternal protection of hisMajestyj on which
fiey have hitherto solely relied. 'Without reverting to the anomalous
Istory of the aborigenes of this land, 1 wi|l merely observe, that in.
Upper Canada, the Indians have hitherto been under the exclusive
care of his Majesty, the territories they inhabit being tracts or crown
lands devoted to their sole use as "His AlliiesJ' Over these lands
bis Majesty has never exercised his paramount right, except at their .-
I^uest, and for their manifest advantage. Within their own commu
nities, t^ey have hitherto governed themselves by their own uowrittea
laws and cestoms^heir lands and property have never been subject
to tax or. assessment, or tbemselves liable to personal service. As
they are not subject to such liabilities,; neiiher do they yet possess the
political privileges of his Majesty's subjects generally. The super
intendents, missionaries,. schoolmasters, and others who reside among!,
tliem'fpr their protection and civilizaliota, are appoioted and paid by.
tfe King.^to his representative all appealsjiave until now been made^
-^dwjjh him has all respqnsibilityjrested. In every respect they ap
pear tptbe most constitutiopallyw^in tbe jurisdiction and prerogative'
ofthe Crpwn, and as I declare myself not only ready but desirous to
attend eny complaint they may offer me ; I consider'it would be highly
impolitic (especially for tbe object of redressing a trifling grievance)
tp sanction the adoption of a new cpurse for their internal government.-
To ^is general view ofthe subject, I have only to add, that as regardai
file particular memorial submitted to the House of Assembly by Thosi.-
@p)itlog and seven others, ofthe Huron or Wj'attdott nation, a counter'
petition signed by eleven individuals of ^milar tribe and rank has been
presented to the. House, stating :
V^a bara .the fullest confidaQ$e in the ^tice an4&tlKer^ prote^

SUPPtEMENTART ACCOHNT.
gm of our Moved Sdvereign and his Representative the Lieutenant
walt:,irtrd iftheTa^uS t:i is'ir '^t^ ""f^^ ^~**
teresting account ^iven of the MornL TT ^"""^^ance with the in!
which he obtaTned fZ, a Call c pL '"' '''I ^"P'" Alexander,
reward, for his labour of love he EpisfoDaTHnl^°"V'' '''¦'''' ^' *
1830, there werefrom one bun^drld^nX o t- 'undredtmilie: of
these Indians scattered on the Pomeroon, and on tlfe creeks w^chfaU
into It, and into the sea on the Morocco cL^t nfFd.= V'^^''^ ^'"=ti ta I
their existence there had beerSuiry^LS ffi r.^e' S^^^^^
Governor by a Dutch Postholder, receiving British pay, yet it an-
pears tbat they had emigrated from the Oronoco several Ua" back
under very peculiar circumstances. Being essentially royaUst^, they
took an eariy and deeded part in the revolutionary war which distract^
ed their country. Every inducement which the love ofliberty licen
tiousness, or the love of money could suggest or inspire, was held out
-by the patriots as the price oftheir apostacy ; but true to the interests '
of their sovereign, they struggled, till the last strong hold was aban-
ddned by the European royalists, to uphold the declining fortunes of
their master. This devotedness brought down upon them a dreadful
retaliation ; their priests were maesaered, their villages plundered and
razed to the ground; and these forlorn beings, whose greatest crime
was an attachment to tho institutions which rescued them frora barbar
ism, were driven from their comfortable homes, and the land they fer
tilized with the sweat of their brows-, to seek a* shelter amongst the
forests of Guiana. One wide desolation has since overspread these
missions, and the Indians, assembled together with so much trouble,
are again wandering in the woods. It was but natural to suppose that,
freed from every restraint. Civil and ecclesiastical, they were rauch de-
teio-rated in their moral and intetlectnal condition since their departure
from the Oronoco. The temptations to idleness and profligacy which
such a state of life holds out-, and the Corrupting influence ofthe erra*
tic tribes with whom they were compelled to -assort, are not easily with
stood. They yielded to theVn in a certain degree, but though degene
rated, it was easy to discover a degree of intelligence, and a refine
ment of feeling, which markedat once the early impress df civilization
and religion. Happy at being tolerated, within the pale of a more en
lightened and settled government, they were eager to evince their grati
tude for. tLe protection it afforded them ; they were likewise most anx."
iduB, but unable of themselves, td trarisrait to "their children those blfei-
sings which elevated them in the scale of beings- under the excellent
and liberal administration of Sir Benjamin D'Urbah. These advanta
ges, it is to b6 hoped, will be secured to ihem, and the Colony will be
amply repaid for the patronage extended to them, in the attachment
and fidelity of a grateful people." It is to be hoped for tbe sake of
the loyal, well disposed, peaceable Indians of Upper Canada, that
they may Idng remain free frntn Mr. Mackenzie's interference in their
regard, for if that unfortunate day should ever arrive, it would be to
them as to all Pthers, with whpse cpncerns he has intermeddled, a day
of jailing and lamentation, and misery, strife, agitation, add desdlatiPB
36

SUPPLEMENTARY ACCOtJNt.
would inevitably supersedetheir present quiet, tranquil and improving-
condition. _
In the short account I gave ofthe township of Mulmur, page 189, I ,
forgot to mention the superstitious vent ration in which the exhausted
volcano is held by the Indians, who used formerly to resort, in great
numbers, to the spot, to celebrate their sacrifice. As Mono is now ra
pidly s'ejftling, it will not be a task of sueh'great difficulty to get at the
euriositj^ in Mulmur ; ifwould amply repay the geologist and minera
logist as well as the general Idver df nature for their trouble.
THE PRESS OF UPPER CANADA.
There being no stamp duty in the Province, there are a great num
ber of Newspapers ; the proprietors, bowever, are subject to a.trifliqg
postage, wnich certainly ought to be borne bythe receiver.
Eastern District, — Cornwall Observer, Cornwall Argus.
fittawa District,- — Bytown Gazette.
Johnstown District. — Prescott Herald, Brockville Recorder, The
Warder, the Constitution, Brockville.
Bathurst District. — Bathurst Gazette.
Midland District, — Belleville Intelligencer, Kingston Chronicle, U.C,
Herald, British Whig, The Spectator.
Prince Edward District. — The Traveller.
Newcastle .District,.^C ohomg Star, Cobourg tteformer. Port Hdpe
XJazette, Home District. — Patridt, Courier, Albion', Christian Guardian, Cob-
.etitution, Cdrrespondent and- Advocate, Gazette.
- Niagara District. — St. Catherines Journal, Chippewa Herald, Nia
gara "Jleporter, Niagara Gleaner.
Qiire District. — Hamilton Gazette, Hamilton Express, Hamilton Free
^Press, Dundas Post, Brantford Sentinel, Canada Museum,
- London District. — Freeman's Journal, London Gazette, St. Thomas
•Liberal.
. Western Di«fe'i6<.-i-Canadian Emigrant.
; LONDON AND GORE RAIL ROAD.
- , This magnificent undertaking, I trust, and believe, is likely to be
, accomplished, and thus secure to Montreal and Gluebec, the greatad-
. vantages of the trade of the North West— Illinois— Michigan— the
beautiful region df Upper Canada td the West df Lake Ontario  the
navigation of the latter noble inleyid sea-^and the value of the canal
constructed round the St. La-ivreifce, whichhas already cost this Pro-.
vince £370,000, and which might as well be shut up.'if the merchan
dize ofthe West were lo be sent to New Yot^k by the Erie Canal. The
route has been surveyed and 'found to be practicable and easy.
LOAN AND TRUST BILL.
I am happy to have an opportunity afforded me, bythe perusal ofthe
draft ofa bill, bearing tbe above title, and emanating from the Hon.
Mr. Markland, to rectify an omissien which was unintentional, when
speaking of th^' unswerving loyalty and attachment fo British institu
tions which has, always marked the character of the' Hon. Messrs.
Dynn, aobitiaon,: ahd Wells. No better proof could be requireddf the

SUPPLEMENTARY ACCOUNT.
splicitude of Mr. Markland to serve and benefit the Province than th^
bill which 1 have mentioned, -and which by its effectual assistance to
large landholders, would prove of incalculable advantage to the country.
ADVICE TO POOR EMIGRANTS.
Passage. Do not come out with ibo early spring ships, the weather
is generally rough anil cold, and the passage somelimes dangerous ;
even in the beginning of July iceberg^ are met with on the banks of
N'^wfounu'land, and the weather more or less fogg}'. June is a good
nionlh to sail for Gluebec
Package. Pack up your necessaries in as little space as possible, in
strongboxes of porlabls size, from 30 to 26 inches long, 18 wide, and
l2or 14deep. Clean off the saw mark? inside; leave the outside rough;
put hinges and locks upon them, and leave as little overwood on the lid
as possible, so as to prevent sailors from lifting by (he lids, Crossbars
on the lid outside ; the same on the bottom, jvhich will strengthen it, and
ke.ep it free frora dafnp, should there be water splashing about.
'Provision. As you'will be in the steerage, lay in provisions for nine
weeks. 3 firlots of oatmeal, 8 lbs. of butler, jib. of tea,' 10 lbs. of sugar,
a littie salt, plenty of potatoes, sotne bottled porter, if it can be procured,.
5 or '6 dozen eggs carefully packed in the meal, a pork ham dr two to
fry a few slices aloug^with eggs. Remember your table furniture, is to
be sucb ns will not break with a fall — a small white iron tea pot and ,
white iron basin, lari^e enough to hold a sufficient quantity ol broth or
pottage, it will also serve for tea-^cup, the other for sugar basin : aspoou,
a knife and fork, a salt cellar, a -w-hite iron pail, with a lid, to hold a gal-
lort, tbis is to hold water which will be measured <iut to you, half a gallon
a day. A pot to make the pottage, which will also do for tea-k«!ttle. — -
Provide yourself with a small box of laxative pills, epsom salts, or castor
oil, to take when needful, as the stomach will retain them. You will
keep your eatables and their utensils in a bPx by themselves.
Furniture and Clothing. You must have bedding on board. You
need not expend much money in clothes, reraeraber you have to stand
heat and cold : a few suits of cotton ones for summer, and a few strong
lasting ones for winter. Plaiding drawers and a fair supply of warm
stockings : 3 or 4 pair pf st.rojjg shoes, one good hat, summer hats be-"
ing cheap in the Province, a "mr cap for winter. Your goods will be
landed at Montreal, you will then apply to the agents of forwarders of
goods and passengers, McPherson, Henderson Sf Co, are an excellent
company : your baggage is then carted to their warehouse, where ydu
will probably remain two days : you are allowed fire for cooking, alid
also room to lodge during the night. You are then sent to Prescott, a
distance of 145 miles, costing you about 2s. sterling for 100 lbs. of lug
gage, and about 5s. for passage. ' The distance from Prescott to To
ronto is 262 miles, making in all 407. From Toronto there are steam*
boats to Hamilton and Niagara, for the west. From Hamiltpn the coun
try leads to Dundas, Ancaster, Gait, Guelph, Brantford, Woodstock,
London, &c. From Niagara to the Falls, Chippawa, thence, to any
part ofthe country bordering on lake Erie or on the Talbot Street,

SUPPLEJBEKTARY ACCOCNT.
Lakes Ontario aniJ HuaoN— Hamilto.v, Londpn and the WebTa-
My attention of late has been very forcibly directed to lh» above exci
ting topic, for to me, il reall)i seems that the navigation of Lako Ontariw
and the commerce of Montreal, stand in great jeopardy of being sacrir
ficed to the speculators of Buffalo and along ihe Erie Canal. If the rail
road runs from Detroit to Bertie, it is but a contimialion of the Eritr
canal, and the Micliigan trade and travel will a.-isured-iy be carried to it,
whereas, if the trade of Michigan is carried by its natural route through
the very centre of the raost fertile portion of the Province, it will ba
brought into our own majestic Lake Ontario to be carried down the St.
Lawrence to the Atlantic. I have conversed with many individuals as to,
the route, and find all are for taking it to London — and from ihence
some to Sandwich — and some to Ibe new Town Plot on the river St.
Clair. Through the kindness of Major Bowen, I have been favored
with some memoranda which would point nut the latter route as the
most desirable. First: The government is now laying out a Town
Flit in the township of Moore, on the river St. Clair, the size 400 acres,
it is situated on the bend of a river, the Isle au Cerf, or Stag Island^
protecting it from ih.e west — and tbe points of the Half Moon from the
north and south winds. Batteries mis^htbe erected at either end of the
island, securing it against attack>-rrlhe stream is full, the water transpa«
rent, and ships of 300 tons can navigato past it; it isSmiJes higher up
than Palmer a County seat in ikZicbigan, and 4 miles below Black River;
55 railes west of Londop^ and 140 west of Hamilton at the Head of lake
Ontario. The townships of Enniskillen and Bropks lie to the East — -.
Sombra to the South — Sarnia, Plympton, and War'wick to the north and
northl eas^, as reference to the map will show. It is half way between Go--
derich and Detroit. The American steamers pass daily, and touch when
required. The Goderich steamer does so likewise., Having noticed its
geographical situation, let us proceed to consider its advantages. Firsts
by continuing the projected rail road from London to Corunna, through"
the townships of Adelaide, Brooke, and Enniskillen, it proceeds nearly
ft direct west course, and turns tho heads of the Bear creek and anothei^
small river, and avoids the low lands in the aforementioned townships^
Second,. the passage by rail road being at the rate of 15 miles au hour,
from lake,Ontario to river St. Clair would be 10 hours — in all l8— rwhich
now takes, with every advantage, by way of Buffalo or Chatham, 3 and
a half days. The river is three fourths of- a mile broad. Third, they
are now constructing a rail road frora-JPalmer west to Romeo, another is
also con|emplated from Bla^k-River to St. Joseph bn Grand River, com-.
ple:tely across Michigan. Corunna will be then central and answer for
both. Fourth,- the dungerous navigations of lakes Erie and St. Clair,
would be both avoided-^tbe debouchure of the river St. Clair into lake
Sl.^eiair, being particularly dangerous. Frora Palmer or Cxjrunna, ves
sels of 300 tons may proceed to Chicago by lakes Hurim and Michigan,
avoiding the aforesaid dangers, taking tbuir produce or supplies direct
to or from lake Ontario. Fifth, Corunna must be th<3 port of Plympton,
they can have none on lake Huron. Sixth, Vessels i^uffering from bad
weather, can lay up and repair; Corunna will afford a safe harbour,
8el>enth,\On the opposite side there are abundance of pine, and steam saw
Will*. .S;%AM, On the river, floating saw and gristmills may be con-

» SUPPLEMENTARY ACCOUNT.
•Iracted, as on ihe Danube and the Rhine. The stream runs at Ihe rate
of four and a baf miles an hour. 'Ninth, the water Pn Ihe Canadian sido
ts excellent, lenth, the land on the river St. Clair has risen 40(> per
cent, in value in 3 years. Eleventh, abundance of fine oak timbW-for
ship building in the township of iWoore. Tweflth, 3 years ago there were
only a few_ squatters on the river side in Moore, there aro now 570 set
tlers. Thirteenth, When a rail road connscis lake Ontario and river St
Clair, a person m^y breakfast in New York on Monday and sup in Mi
chigan on Wednesday. Whether the rail road is to terrainate at Sand
wich or Moore— through London, and from Hamilton, it must come.
The following is the account ofthe Trials, Convictions, and Acquil-
tals in the Province of Upper Canada, for Five years, viz. from 1830
to 1835, inclusive : "
For murder 47: found guilty 17, acquitted 25; convicted of man-"
slaughter 5 ; for Sodomy 2, 1 convicted, 1 acquitted ; Rape 10, 3
convicted, 7 acquitted ; Bigamy, 1 convicted ; for assault 50, 37 con
victed, 13 acquitted ; Manslaughter 20, 6 convicted, 14 acquitted ;
Malicious shootings, 2 convicted, 6 acquitted ; Riot 9, 5 convictedl
4 acquitted ; Conspiracy 2, 1 convicted, 1 acquitted ; for Felony 53*,
30 convicted, 23 acquitted ; Arson 13, 4 convicted, 9 acquitted ; For
gery 25, 8 convicted, 17 acquitted ; for Libel 2, 1 convicted, 1 acquit
ted.; Perjury 17, convicted 6, 11 acquitted ; for Larceny 266, con
victed ISO, acquitted 86 ; Burglary 6, 4 convicted, 2 acquitted ; Theft
5, 2 convicted, 3 acquitted ; for Horse-stealing 28, 23 convicted, 5 ac
quitted : Sheep-stealing 8, 3 convicted, 5 acquitted .; Robbery 2 cdn-
victed ; for Misdemeanor 59, 33 convicted, 26 acquitted ; Nuisance
11, 6 convicted, 5 acquitted, Extortion 1 acquitted ; for enticing sol
diers to desert 5, 3 convicted, 2 acquitted.
POST OFFICE, UPPER CANADA.
From all the information which I have been enabled to collect rela
tive to this department, I find that there were distributed through the
post office department, in 1836, the following newspapers ; Provincial
papers 178,065, U. States papers and others, not provincial, 14i9,502.
The amount paid for the transmission ofthe above newspapers was
£1277 4s currency. The above statement, however, does not include
thofee Provincial and American papers which are sent free, norpaper.s
to and from Great Britain and Ireland, bythe packets, which are-arso
sent free. There are no accounts kept, any where, of the number, of
either, butfrom a calculation raade, the lowest estimate of the number
of papers transmitted free by the post in Upper Canada, exceedjone
huitidred thousand per annum. The gross amount of postage paid by
the printers or proprietors of newspapers in Upper Canada, for the
transmission, of their papers through the post, io 1S35, was £639 8 10.
The gross amount of letter postage collected the satee year was £20,-
890 currency. This includes the British postage on letters by the go
vernment packets, which is merged in the general postage collected in
the Province and of which no separate account has ever been kept.
The number of letters is not known by the pdst oflice accounts, but'
Buppcsing that the average pestage ameunts td 7d. c'y. each, and

SUPPLEMENTAKY ACCOUNT. ,
which I am informed is as near the mark as possible, then, bysucit
an average the number sent in the- year 1835, would be 716,228. —
Through the indefatigable exertions of Mr. Stayner to render the
most ample accommodation to British settlers in Upper Canada, a
great augmentation has been made in the number of post ofiices. In
the year ending 1835 there were 154.. At this time, September 1836,
in this province there are 195, being an increase of 41 iii nine months.
'Would the rabid demagogue Mackenzie, who took such pains to ob
tain the situation of Deputy Post Master General to this Province,
have discharged his duties like Mr. Stayner ? Does one of his own
friends even believe that he would 1 There are none that so believeth,
no, npt one.
TORONTO HOSPITAL.
The number of admissions for the year 1835, according to the last'
annual return, commencing 2d of February 1835, and ending 1st of
February 1836, appears to be 530, with 45 remaining from preceding.
year. Discharged cured - - 423
Discharged relieved, - - 43
Discharged for irregularity, - - 4
Discharged in.curable., - - 6
Deaths - - - - 39
(Out of which 7 died within the flrst 48 hours, of typhus fever,)
Remaining on the books, - - 60
Durin-gthat year no'less than 1800 outpatients received medical aid
at the daily dispensary ofthe Institution, from 9 o'clock till 12.
TRUSTEES.
The Hon. the Chief Justice,
The Hon. and Ven. the Archdeacon df York,
The Hon. John H. Dunn,
The Hon. G. H. Markland,
The Hon. W. Allen,
Christdpher Widmer, Esq. • >
PHYSICIANS AND SURGEdNS.
C. 'Widmer, Esq. , ^ - .
Jdhn King, M. D-
John Rolpb, Esq.
Roberr Hornby, M. D.
-,i5.. Apothecary, F. Wilkinson — Steward, Geo. Sinclair.
d LAKE ONTARIO— WINDSOR BAY.
The Province must direct its attention to. the navigation ofthis noble
lake, and it is well worthy of mature consideration whether it would
not be advisable to'*pen up that fine ej^Jeptpf^rtile country stretching
between the beautiful havigable waters of SturgeWn Lake and Windsor
Bay, Whitby. The. waters of the Scugog La.ke%id River, pass in
their course from Sturgeon lalte^ bounding on- the south west angle
ofFenBlon,,th«)ir^ the whole of . Ops, bordefin^ on Manvers, inter-

SUPPLEMENTARY ACCOUNT.
secting Cartwright, and part of Reach, extending its tributary ramifi
cations into Brock, Mariposa, and Whitby, The harbour of Windsor
could be connected with this navigation, by a rail road, at the distance
of 18 miles ; and to render the above extent of navigation immediately
available, there requires but one dam and lock below the present site
of Purdy's mill. The benefit such a measure would confer on thia
fceotion of the country would be immense, and as fine and feriile a
country as can be met with, is that, bordering on the tributaries of
the :Scugog river and lake, the Non-can and cross creeks. In page
167, speaking of the extent of water communication we should have
said eighty instead of eight.
LOWES CANADA.
, The matchless letters of Camillus, and the great exertions of tha
British pppulation in Lower Canada, must have attracted, in no pow
erful a degree, the attention of the people to the stale, condition, and
resources of that Province. The Eastern townships, numbering SO,
and forming altogether five millions ofacres of land, are equal in soil,
fertility, salubrity, climate, timber, water, and accessible comraunica
tion to any portion of Canada, and I trust from the character of its set
tlers, will tend more effectually to consolidate that bond of affection and
-mutual interest which ought to be felt, by every lover ot Great Britain
in both the Canadas. The following very graphic and interesting ac
count of the formation of anew town in one of these townships, I have
extracted fromf that respectable paper the Sherbrooke Farmer's Ad-
. vocate. VICTORIA.
« This name has been given to a spot selected by the British Ameri
can Land Corapany for the site ofa town, situate within the township
of Lingwick, near the town line of Bury, bordering the falls of Salmon
river, and distant about 36 miles from Sherbrooke. The road to the
•settlement has, been cut out the whole distance, so as to ^ passable
for men pn hnrseback. Some parts have been corapleted, but the
whcle line cannot be finished before next season. When completed
it.will undoubtedly be the finest road in the township, probably in
'Ganada. The country through which it passes is principally covered
with fine hard timber, with a wonderfully small proportion of inferior
swampy land. . Clearings of one or two acres occasionally meet the
view, at short in.teryening distances, along the whjqieroute, and stur
dy English settlers are to be seen, wiTh their wives and childsen all bu
sily engaged in the several occupations of burning, logging, &c.
Such as have arriyedegi]«ijy^ season have t(ilerabfe.^dps of pota-
' ^^%if>xtiA\r\i, weildinfe their a^s with a gfa^^lid agiTi^»!|ivhich
^one cred^d' any axgaaawin the.cdMrt&. We we»e un-
sm,mmm>.^^a^-mri^mf *e graceful

SUPPLEMEJVTARY ACCOUNTj
movements of the two wood nymphs-— hav'ing at length accofted iheHJit
they dropped their axes in delightful confusion at being caugh.t-engag.'
edin so maidenly an occupation, showed two beautiful faces covered
with blushesand smiles, which commanded so rauch admiration, that
were it not for the circumstance of our being already bound in matri
mony fast as a church, it might have ended there is no knowing
where. They were undoubtedly two very pretty girls, and it is under
stood, that the sudden discovery of two such unsophisticated speci
mens of native beauty in tbe forest actiijg in undonscioiisness of being
*een and admired, is infinitely more interestiifg than discovering the
same in satin petticoats, all bedecked and bedizened for public exhibi
tion. The men at work on the roads are divided into gangs of Iwenty
or forty each. We h^d the pleasure of spending a night jn one ofthe
camps. The buildings consisted of two shanties covered with bark
sloping to the ground, open above along the centre to let the smoke
escape. Immediately below this opening an enormous fire made of
logs piled upon one another, kept blazing all night, and nearly roasted
us alive— fortunately bad the left flank of a line of thirty-six bedfellows;
kept awake halftho night by discordant noises proceeding from a va
riety of those raost unmusical instruments, noses,; in the morning
breakfasted on bread, beef-steaks, and tea without milk- or sugar,
boiled to the bitterness of bark in a six gallon pot,' and served out in
saacepans — discovered the cook to be a man of intelligence by thjg
quality df his beef-steaks— on enquiry found that he had doubled Cape
-Horn, weathered the Cape of Good Hope, made sugar with the niggers,
escorted three hundred rogues to Botany Bay, was nearly eaten at the
Nicobars, and trimmed the nabob of Arcot's whiskers^
HAMILTON.
Itis with extreme-reluctance I send this bdok to the public without
itsfrontispiece-^the view of A. N. McNab's elegant mansion, seen
fiom Burlington Bay. When I obtain it from New York, I will.,be
cai-eful:;,tq send one for every copy, but to delay the issue ofthe work,
any Icsiger, Would prevent its circulation in Great Britain, until t^e
middle df next year, asi should be precluded from availing myself
ofthe navigation of the St. Lawrence Until next May, and the high
duty, payable op books transmitted to G^reSt Britain, through New
York, renders the conveyance; bji^i at route, a serious obstacle.
Error— Page '213, West.F'lamboro', cultivated acres 12,573, uncnl- '
tivated acres 51,061.

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