YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY ROUTES ABYSSINIA Presented to the House of Commons, in pursuance of their Address dated November 26, 1867. LONDON: PRINTED FOR HER MAJESTY'S STATIONERY OFFICE, BY HARRISON AND SONS, ST. MARTIN'S LANE, IJrhita in ©ibitrarg to $tr IStajwstg. 1867. INDEX. PAGE General description of the country of Abyssinia and of the different routes leading into it Principal Towns ™ Government " Religion and Character of Inhabitants 1" Currency l 1 • Military Strength of Country "18 Description of Theodore ¦ • 22 Portuguese Expedition into Abyssinia 27 Routes to Magdala from the North 30 Routes from Massowah and Ansley Bay to the Highlands- 34 Extracts from the Works of Travellers • 38 List of Worts referred to « 38 Index to Routes 39 Salt's Journey from Massowah by the Taranta Pass to Chelicut, near Antalo , 42 Pearce's Journey from Antalo to Lake Ashangi 45 Ferret et G-alinier. Journey from Massowah by the Taranta Pass to Adowa 47 Ferret et Galinier. Journey from Gondar to Adowa, Goundet, and Massowah 56 Mansfield Parkyns' Journey from Massowah, by Ailet to Adowa 62 Ditto from Adowa along the Takazze 73 Miinzinger's Route from Massowah to Kaya Khor 75 Col. Merewether's description of the Agametta Plateau 79 Do. Report on roads from Massowah to Ailet 82 Major Harris' Journey from Tajurreh to Ankobar 83 D'Hericourt ditto ditto 118 Isenberg and Krapf ditto ditto 120 Coffin's Journey from Amphilla Bay to Chelicut 129 Hamilton's Journey from Suakim to Kassala- - ¦¦ 130 Briice's Journey from Gondar to the Gwangwe 134 Krapf 's Journey from Magdala by Lake Haik, &c, to Massowah 137 Dr. Beke's Journey from Debra Tabor to Adowa 172 RiippeU's Journey from Halai to Addigraht (Ategerat) 181 Ruppell's Journey from Addigraht to Tackeraggiro (Takirakira) 182 Dr. Beke's Letter on a route from Ansley Bay to Tohonda 183 Description of the different Divisions of the Provinces of Abyssinia .... 186 Combes' and Tamisier's Journey from Massowah to Adowa 189 Do. do. do. Adowa to Devra Tabor 191 Don Alonzo Mendez. Journey from Amphilla Bay to Fremona 194 Lefebvre. Journey from Atebidera towards the Salt Plain 198 Do. do. Massowah to Adowa 200 Do. do. Adowa to Antalo , 202 Do. do. Adowa to Massowah 205 Do. Routes 208 Bruce's Journey from Massowah to Gondar 221 Steudner's Journey from Chankar (south-west of Gondar) to Magdala . . 245 Line of Advance of the Expedition , 251 RETURN to an Address of the Honourable the House of Commons, dated November 26, 1867 ; for— " Copy of a Pamphlet and Appendices relating to the Routes in GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY OP ABYSSINIA AND OF THE DIFFERENT ROUTES LEADING INTO IT. Abyssinia is often represented on maps as bounded on the east by the Red Sea. This, however, is an error. Abyssinia proper -consists of a high mountainous table-land, the eastern boundary of which may be considered roughly as following the 40th degree of east longitude. Between this mountainous region and the sea there is a tract of arid, low-lying, waterless country, inhabited by the savage Danakil tribes ; this region at Massowah is only a few miles broad, but it widens out to 200 or 300 miles at Tajurrah. In climate, inhabitants, soil, cultiva tion, &c, these two regions are totally opposite, the highlands being salubrious, temperate, generally well watered, and tra versed by paths in every direction, whilst the low country is arid, waterless, with few exceptions trackless and uncultivated. This inhospitable region effectually cuts off the highlands from all communication with the sea, except at three points, Massowah and its neighbourhood on the north, Amphilla Bay about 100 miles to the south-east, and Tajurrah on the south.* From these three points the roads into the interior are of a very different character, for at Massowah they very soon climb the eastern boundary of the highlands,! and continue along the elevated land, whilst from Tajurrah they have to traverse 200 or 300 miles, and from Amphilla Bay from 50 to 100 miles, of the low lying country before they reach the highlands. The western and southern boundaries of Abyssinia are very undefined, but they may be taken roughly as coterminous with the edge of the highlands, as shewn on the map in the margin of the route map at the end. The different character of the high and low country has an important bearing on the nature of the transport, for, whilst in the latter camels are chiefly used, these animals are useless in the highlands, where they are replaced by asses, mules, oxen,, and men.J * Travellers speak of other tracks known to the natives, but none have been explored. t A circle drawn with the centre at Massowah and Ailet on the circumference (a radius of 20 miles) , would apparently sweep the spurs of the mountains where they descend into the plains. Camels can, however, go nmch further, as to the foot of the Taranta pass, about 40 or 50 miles. J That camels are useless as beasts of burden on the highland's seems beyond a doubt. They are invariably changed at the foot of the Taranta Passes for bullocks. Major Harris on approaching Ankobar, the capital of Shoa, from Tajurrah, says : — " As well from the steepness of the rugged mountains of Abyssinia, which towered overhead, as from the pinching climate of their wintry summits, the camel becomes useless as a beast of burden ; and none being ever taken beyond the frontier, many of the Widasma's retinue now gazed at these ungainly quadrupeds 2 GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY There is also a way of approach by Suakim to Kassala, an Egyptian town on the north-west frontier of Abyssinia. From Kartoum and other places on the Nile there are also roads into the interior of the country. 1. Roads from Massowah. — After traversing 30 or 40 miles of hot, low-lying desert country, the main road from Massowah to Gondar ascends the mountains by the Taranta pass. This pass is described by all travellers as one of great difficulty, up which in some places loaded animals can with difficulty make their way. It can be avoided by going round to the west, where there are at least two paths, one of which was followed by Ferret and Galiuier, on their return to Massowah, in 1842, and the other by Mansfield Parkyns, on his way to Adowa, in 1843. Neither of these travellers describe the same difficulties on reaching the high land by those routes as are experienced in the Taranta pass. M. Miinzinger has also lately given a description of two paths by which the table-land can be reached in the direction of Kaya Khor. Of this line Dr. Beke, writing in 1842, says " after quitting the table-land of Serawe at Gura, I descended from Kaiyakhor to Massowah by a gradual and easy road, well watered, and occupying two days and arhalf, very gentle travel ling. This is so much superior to the steep way up the Taranta, that it is now generally chosen by Europeans." The Taranta pass may be also avoided by following up the Haddas stream to Tohonda ; this road was traversed by Krapf, who states that it is an easy one and that it might be made available for camels. From Ansley Bay Tohonda and Senafe may also be reached. When the high land is reached, the country for the whole dis tance to Gondar and Magdala appears to present alternations- of fertile Ian d, rocky barren tracts,, mountain passes and defiles. The table-land appears to be from 5,000to 8,000 feet above the sea, and the mountains rise from it to the right of 10,000 and 15,000 feet, the whole country being broken and tossed about in a remarkable degree. With the exception of the first 50 or 60 miles after leav ing Massowah, there seems to be generally no want of water. There are numerous paths between the villages, but none that deserve the name of roads. Mansfield Parkyns says on this head, "For some distance after passing the church we continued in the great Gondar road. This appellation may give an idea- of macadamising, with footpaths alongside, fences, &c, but here the high road is only a track worn by use, and a little larger than the sheep paths, from the fact of more feet passing over it. The utmost labour bestowed on any road in this country is when some traveller, vexed with a thorn that may happen to strike his face, draws his sword and cuts off the spray. Even for the first time." In all views of the table land of Abyssinia, of which many exist in the works of Lefebvre, Salt, Lord Valentia, &c, a camel is never depicted, mules and horses, on the contrary, entering frequently into the landsoape, whilst in sketches taken in the low countries the camel is an 'invariable feature. The only exception to this rule I have ever found is in the case of the journey of Don Alonzo Mendez.from Amphilla Bay to Fremona, in which, after having reached the high lands by the Senate Pass, he still speaks of his " camel drivers." AND ROUTES LEADING TO ABYSSINIA. 3 this if rarely done ; and I have been astonished at seeing roany higbwaysi, and even some of the most used, rendered almost impassable by the number of thorns which are allowed to remain spread across them." The track he was following when he penned these observations, is the great cajavan road from Gondar, the capital of Abyssinia, to the Red Sea. Ferret and G^huier thus alludes to the roads ;— " Le .chemin que nous ¦smvons est un des plus frequentes de lAbyssinie; c'est par la que les caravanes se rendent a la mer et qu'elles en reviennent. Ne vous y trompez pas cependant, ceci ne ressemble guere a un de nos grands chemins, a ces routes .commerciales qui traversent^ notre France; un sentier tout simplement rien qifun sentier. Le pied des voyageurs l'a trace lentement, et ll eerjpente au hasard sur les flancs des collines, au milieu des praipies ; 9k et la il c6toie quelques arbres epineux ; prenez garde alors, vous courez risque .d'y dechirer vos vetements et vos jambes." Besides the main road from Massowah to Gondar by Adowa,, there is also, according to tk. Beke, a second great caravan road from north to south of Abyssinia, from Massowah, through Antalo and Socota. Antalo {about latitude I2>g, longitude 3,9^°) may be reaejhed either through Addigraht by the route followed by Riippell and Ferret and Galinier, or through Adowa, as travelled by Beke, or bj an intermediate route followed by Salt. Magdala, according to Dr. Beke* and Dr. Blanc, ean be more easily reached from the direction of Socota than -from that of Devra-Tabor. There are numerous streams and rivers and high mountain passes to be traversed on these highlands. Their water system is peculiar. By a glance at the map at the end of the volume it will be seen that the watershed runs very near their eastern edge, from which it results that all the great rivers have their rise near the eastern side of the table land, and then take a westerly course. The principal of these are the Mareb, Taccazze, Atbara, and Abai or Blue Nile. The Takazze crosses the principal caravan road from Massowah to Gondar and is a most formidable obstacle. It is described by Parkyns, who crossed it in the rainy season, as nearly equal in volume -to the Thames, at Greenwich, but resembling in rapidity the Rhone when it leaves Lake Geneva ; in the dry season it is fordable ; Bruee describes it as flowing in a "prodigious valley." Ferret and Galinier say : " the ravine in which it runs is one of the steepest possible. At TcheUatohekennet it is not less than 2,000 feet deep, the breadth of the river is a%ut 60 feet, and its depth in March not more than 3 or 4 feet, it is then fordable almost everywhere. In the rainy season it overflows its bank, and its depthis often from 15 to 18 feet." Parkyns says that mountains, alnsj&3t impregnable- by nature, are common in this country. One important feature of Abyssinia is the existence of * Letter to Secretary of State for War, 9th August, 1867. + Chilachfkan on Map. 4 GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY ranges of snow-topped mountains in the provinces of Samen and Lasta, which stretch at right angles to the roads leading from the north towards Gondar and Magdala, and the passes through which are described as of the most formidable cha racter. The tw#» principal passes leading to Gondar are the Lamalmon and Selki. Of the first, Ferret and Galinier say : " We found ourselves in the Lam'elmon, whose summit, 8,000 feet above the sea, sinks into the plains of Waggara. All at once an immense gulf opened under our feet. We got off our mules, and, leading them by the bridle, descended the moun tains by a precipitous path, blocked with fragments of rock, which threatened at every step to precipitate us into the abyss on our left." Bruce says of the same pass : " We were now ascending the Lamelmon through a very narrow road, or rather path, for it scarcely was two feet wide anywhere. It was a spiral, winding up the side of a mountain, always on the very brink of a pre cipice. Torrents of water, which in winter carry prodigious stones down the side of the mountains, had divided the path in several places, and opened to us a view of that dreadful abyss below which few heads can bear to look upon. We were here obliged to unload our baggage, and, by slow degrees, crawl up the hill, carrying them little by little upon our shoulders round those chasms where the road was intersected." Combes and Tamisier thus speak of the Selki Pass : " We then abandoned the banks of the river to mount by an infernal path. ... At length we arrived at the top of the pro digious mass. On every side still more colossal mountains raised their heads, between which was the path which we had to follow After marching two hours we passed the gate called Sancaber, closing the finest and perhaps the only road in Abyssinia, carried along the side of a high mountain, inaccessible from the top to the bottom." Mr. Dufton, in the journey from Massowah to Devra Tabor, which he describes in a letter published in the Times of the 14th September, appears to have taken a more easterly route than that of the Selki pass, but necessarily traversing a portion of the same range of mountains in the Province of Samen, which, as has been before stated, is one of the most rugged in Abyssinia. His remarks on it will probably apply to the whole of the moun tainous regions of Samen and Lasta, and are as follows : — " The main features of the route are its ruggedness, making the use of the camel totally impossible; the narrowness of the path over a greater paction of it necessitating the army marching in single file ; the salubrity of the climate, this being in general cool and agreeable ; the abundance of clear cold water in the mountain torrents, and the magnificence of the scenery passed through. The whole distance,* allowing for sinuosiijes, is about 400 miles, which the army could not do in less than 40 days." He adds in conclusion that he does not think the route "is a practicable one for the march of an army." * From Massowah to Debra Tabor. AND ROUTES LEADING TO ABYSSINIA. 0 Mr. Pearce appears to have struck a mountain range after passing Lake Ashangi, as he talks of intense cold, with hoar frost on the ground, and when near Socota, the capital of Lasta, he says, " This province is extremely mountainous throughout, and forms an almost impenetrable barrier between the two great divisions of Abyssinia, generally comprehended under the name of Amhara and Tigre, two passes only existing through the mountams, which are easily commanded by a small number of troops." Ei'apf when near Lake Ashangi in about latitude 12^°, says, "our. passage was sometimes extremely difficult and narrow. The banks of the mountains had sometimes the appearance of high walls of rocks, a step from which would cause certain death." Combes and Tamisier, speaking of Samen, say : " It is the highest land in Abyssinia ; its mountains are almost continually covered with" snow on their highest tops ;" and of Lasta, " It is very mountainous, and entire armies have been known to perish there of snow. Its inhabitants are warlike." These highlands are very healthy. They are stated by Parkyns to " enjoy probably as salubrious a climate as any country on the face of the globe. The heat is by no means oppressive, a fine light ah- counteracting the power of the sun. At certain seasons of the year the low valleys, as of the Mareb aud Taccazy, especially the former, are much to be feared from the malaria which prevails and which brings on, in persons exposed to its influence, most terrible inflammatory fevers, of which four cases out of five are fatal."* Harris thus speaks of the highlands of Shoa : " As if by the touch of the magician's wand, the scene now passes in an instant from parched and arid waste to the green and lovely highlands of Abyssinia, presenting one sheet of rich and thriving cultivation. Each fertile knoll is crowned with its peaceful hamlet — each rural vale traversed by its crystal brook, and teeming with herds and flocks. The cool mountain zephyr is redolent of eglantine and jasmine, and the soft green turf, spangled with clover, daisies, and buttercups, yields at every step the aromatic fragrance of the mint and thyme." Krapf when travelling near Lake Haik says : " The climate in these plains is beautiful, neither too hot nor too cold ; the air being always refreshed by the winds blowing from the mountains. There is plenty of water pom-ed out from the veins of the neighbouring moun tains." There is a dry and a rainy season in these highlands. The latter extends from May to September, and, with theexception of a few showers in the beginning of November, little more rain falls during the year. Bruce gives the rainfall from a register kept at Gondar and Koscam, as follows : — * Bruce says of the Taccazy : " Prom the falling of the first rains in March till November, it is death to sleep in the country adjoining to it, both within and with out its banks; the whole inhabitants retire and live in villages on the top of the neighbouring mountains." GENERAL DESCRIPTION OP THE COUNTRY ftondar, 1770. Koscani, 1771. inches. inches-. March and April •089 •749 May .... 2717 2-501 June .... 4-307 - 6-388 July .... . 10-089 14-360 August . 15-5.69 10-019 September . 2-834 7-338 After which it rained but little more, except at the beginning of November. During the rainy season the rain almost iti&a,- riably falls in the afternoon and night. From Bruee's diary of the weather during the rainy months, it appears that there was hardly a single instance of rain falling between 6 a»m. 'area noon. The temperature of the highlands is mild, but at great elevations the -oold is severe. Bruce gives a series of daily observations at 'Gondar, 7,420 feet above the sea, from which the following is extracted : — Month. January FebruaryMarch . April May June July . August . September October November December 6 A.M. 61 to 66 degrees. 63 to 70 56 to 70 59 -to 73 60 -to 74 60 to 65 55 to 61 .55 to 58 50 to 67f 56 to 61 59 to 61 59 to -63 Noon. 69 to 75 degrees. 69 to 76 .70 to 83 67 to 85 73 to 80 63 to 69 55 to 6.5 ,, 58 to 63 61 to 68 63 to 69 60 to 72 67 to 72 Harris gives the following as the temperature of Ankpljar, the capital of Shoa, which is in the hill Country, &J0O feet above the sea. Month. Mean of Month. Extreme Extreme maximum. minimum January 52 degrees, 65 41 ^February 54-6 :; 66 4.6 March . 57-2 ,, 69 46 April . . 55-2 7J 62 46 May 59-7 ?? 67 51 June . 621 1> 69 52 July . 581 :' 69 51 August 55-8 >' 63 47 September 55-3 ;i 63 46 October 52-1 J5 62 44 November 51-9 jj 60 43 December 51-8 5> 61 41 * There seems no reason to suppose that the liiglilands, as a rule, are unhealthy in the rainy season. Doctor Blanc writes, March 81st, 1867 — "I believe the rainy season would be the most favourable time for a campaign in this country. The rain by itself is not very severe ; the sky being cloudy, the weather is always agreeable and cool. There is no sickness during that period ; it is before and after that certain localities are unhealthy." t It is doubtful whether this is not a wrong entry in Bruee's diary and intended for 57. .... AND ROUTES LEADING TO ABYSSINIA* 7 Ferret and Galinier give the following as the temperatures of different places along the road, from Massowah to Adowa ; — Place. Day. Hour. Temp. Massowah . 2nd to 8th Nov Noon 91 to '93 Arkiko 10th Nov. 9H Oueah .... 11th „ 91" Valley of Hammamo . 12th „ 91 Do. Haddas 13th „ 82 Foot of Taranta Pass . 14th „ 80 Top of do. 15th „ 61 Djyah .... 17th „ 73 Adowa 2nd Dec. 71 ,, )J midnight 5.6 Axum .... 10th Jan. Noon 75 ,, . 15th „ midnight 64 ,, . 5th Feb. Noon 71 Intetchaou, near Adowa 6th June 77 >> )? 16thto24thJun( ¦ » 7i > (mean) JT 5J 25th July 65 J) 3J 31st „ 68 V >5 5th August 64 3> ?J 9th „ 69 Some of the higher mountains are covered with snow. Bruce asserted that snow was unknown in Abyssinia, but there is abundant evidence that he was wrong, from the writings of Gobat, Ferret and Galinier, Mansfield Parkyns, and Salt. It may be mentioned, as bearing on the question of the necessary equipment for an army operating in the highlands, that Steudner, who, in March, 1862, accompanied the army of the Emperor of Abyssinia, which he estimated at 20,000 men, states that the officers had tents and the men made themselves grass :huts, called " nogos," into which they crowded for warmth. Several travellers have also recorded the necessity of sleeping under cover in many parts of the highlands en aceount of the cold. Massowah is very hot. Ferret and -Galinier perature in the shade, in November, to be 93° at noon, 91^° at 3 p.m., and 86° at 9 p.m., that in July they experienced a temperature shade, and this is confirmed by Mansfield Parkyns. The distance from Massowah to Magdala or Debra Tabor is 350 or 400 miles, and to Gondar about 300 miles. From Ansley Bay the distance is about 15 miles less. The works, from which extracts bearing on the different routes from Massowah and its neighbourhood have been made, -will be found by referring to the index and map given at page 39. 2. Roads from Tajurrah. — The main road goes from Tajurrah to Ankobar the capital of Shoa. Near Alloolo a branch road turns off in the direction of Magdala. These roads traverse, for a distance of 200 or 300 miles, the found the teni- 88° at 9 a.m., and they state of 127° in the 8 GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY low country which exists between the highlands . and the sea. Between Tajurrah and the point where they diverge, there lies the " Tekama," a series of volcanic rocks enclosing a salt lake, the passes through which are of the most frightful nature. Harris traversed it at the worst period of the year,' June 1841, and thus describes it. " It is an iron bound waste, which, at this unauspicious season of the year (June) opposes difficulties almost overwhelming in the path of the traveller. Setting aside the total absence of water and forage throughout a burn ing tract of fifty miles, its manifold intricate mountain passes, barely wide enough to admit the transit of a loaded camel, the bitter animosity of the wild bloodthirsty tribes by which they are infested, and the uniform badness of the road, if road it may be termed, everywhere beset with the huge jagged blocks of lava, and intersected by perilous acclivities and descents — it is no exaggeration to state that the stifling sirocco which sweeps across the unwholesome salt flat during the hotter months of the year could not fail, -within 48 hours, to destroy the hardiest European adventurer." D'Hericourt traversed this road at a more favourable time of year, October 1842, but does not give a much more favourable account. He says : " Je crois pouvoir le dire, sans qu'on m'accuse de vouloir exagerer les difficultes de mes travaux, pour en rehausser le merite, il y a peu de voyages plus fatigants pour l'esprit et le corps, plus perilleux a la fois et plus monotones que de parcourir les deserts des Adels. Le Major Harris, un des hommes les plus experimentes dans les voyages Africains, en a garde une impression semblable, et l'a rendue dans sa relation avec les couleurs les mieux senties et les plus justes. Lui meme, lorsque je le rencontrai plus tard dans le Choa, ne pouvait revenir de son etonnement lorsque je lui ai raconte que j'avais tente tout seul, et pour la seconde fois, une expedition si peu attrayante. Au moins, dans d'autres pays, les magnificences de la nature sont une compensation aux perils que vous bravez, un delassement aux fatigues que vous vous imposez : c'est la nature qui fait du desert des Adels le plus affreux des sejours. Le pays des Adels, que l'on met un mois a, parcourir, le pays des Adels est une region montueuse, tourmentee par le travail volcanique a un point qu'on ne saurait rendre. Aucune eau fecondante ne parcourt les brulants replis de cette terre ravagee en tout sens par les feus souterranes et embrasee par le soleil des tropiques." The rest of the road from Aloolo to Ankobar is for the most part very destitute of water and forage. Of the road which branches off towards Magdala, I have not been able to find any description, but there is no reason to believe that the country which it traverses, differs materially from that through which the main road passes. Krapf, -writing October 1st, 1866, says that from Aussa this road follows the bank of the noble river Hawash, abounding in wood, grass, and Avild animals, as far as the junction of the Berkona, thence to Lake Haik. In one of AND ROUTES LEADING TO ABYSSINIA. 9. the itineraries,_ however, given by Lefebvre, the banks of the Hawash are said to be " frequented by wandering tribes, but they make no stay there, because the air is unhealthy." The temperature along this road in summer frequently ranges over 100° in the shade at noon. D'Hericourt during his journey in September gives the temperature of Ambabo at 92£°, and of the salt lake to the south-west of Tajurrah at 92i° ; the time of day is not stated. The same traveller gives the tem perature at the Hawash River as 91°. The rainy season on this low country is in the winter, at the contrary time of year, that is to say, to that in the higlilands ; D'Hericourt states that the rain only falls between seven and nine o'clock in the even ing, and that the rest of the day and night are fine. The distance from Tajurrah to Magdala, by Aussa, is about 300 miles, and by Ankobar about 400. The works from which extracts bearing on the routes from Tajurrah have been made will be found by referring to the index and map given at page 39. 3. Route from Amphilla Bay by Lake A shangi (about lat. 12^°, long. 39^°). — This route is advocated by Colonel Merewether, who writes on 28th February, 1867 : — " On my way up from Aden I called in at Amphilla Bay, and found it admirably suited for the debarkation of" troops ; good anchorage ; water good and plentiful ; and one of the easiest and best roads comes down from Abyssinia to it — a road con stantly used by caravans (camel), who take backwards and forwards the salt obtained near Amphilla. The people in the country are simple and friendly disposed, and there are no Egyptian troops there." And on April 29, 1867 :— " But I am disposed to think, that should a force be sent into Abyssinia, the best way of approaching Begemeder and the Emperor Theodoras will be by landing the troops at Amphilla, and marching through the Azubo Galla country to the neigh bourhood of Lake Ashangi, and then entering Abyssinia Proper, through Lasta and Wadela, both of which are in most active opposition to the Emperor, and thus avoiding Tigre and its high table land, where camel forage is reported difficult to be obtained always. " The Azubo Gallas are independent, then- country is said to be well supplied with grain, grass, water, and camel forage, and the people well disposed. I am having full inquiries made about this route. Reference to Keith Johnston's map of Upper Nubia and Abyssinia will show that Amphilla and Tajooro are exactly equi-distant from Magdala. The former, however, though further by sea from Aden than the latter, has the ad vantage of leading at once into a suitable country ; whereas the latter, in the first 200 miles, opens into a country belonging to the most inhospitable, worst dispositioned people possible, where water and supplies are both very scarce." -10 GENERAL DESCRIPTION OP THE COUNTRY' And again on 1st May, 1867 : — " But I am strongly of opinion that the best line of operation will be through the Azubo Galla country, where there are no rivers of any consequence, where the people are independent, aud where supplies and forage for the baggage animals would be found in abundance, than through Hamozeyn, Adowa, and Sokota, where there are rivers and large ravines, and where, though supplies are plentiful, forage for the baggage cattle is uncertain. The further information I am collecting regarding the route from Amphilla will prove the value of this opinion." This road was travelled hj the Jesuit priest Don Alonzo Mendez in May and June, 1625, and by Mr. Coffin, Mr. Salt's companion, in January, 1810, both of whom have given des criptions of it (see index and map page 39). The distance from Amphilla to 'the pass by which the Abyssinian table land is reached appears to be about 100 miles. The greater part of this tract is of the usual character of the low country between the mountains and the sea, hot, arid, and deficient ii^ water. About 50 miles from the coast there is a very remarkable feature, consisting of a great plain of solid salt, about 40 or 50 miles long, and 1 0 or 20 miles broad, and two or, thr^e feet thick, which is cut into blocks by the Abyssinians, and used as money. The pass to the highlands is described to be as high as the Taranta pass, but not nearly so difficult. Don Alonzo Mendez traversed this road at the worst period of the year. He sa^s of the first portion of it : " Eating very little besides rice we had with us, meeting no town to furnish us with pro visions, and the heat so violent that it melted the wax in our boxes ; without any shade but that of briers which did us more harm than good, lying on the hard ground^ and drinking brackish water of a very ill scent, and sometimes but very little of that, &c," M. Lefebvre attempted to make a journey from Atebidera towards the salt plain, apparently in the direction of Amphilla Bay, extracts from which are given at page 198. His account of the great heat tallies with that of Don Alonzo Mendez. He attempted the journey at the worst time of year (June) and he was told that " an Abyssinian, much more a white man could not support the heat ; the Taltals* themselves often fell, struck by congestion of the brain." He persisted in his joUrney, but,, before he came in sight of the salt plain, he was struck down by the sun, and was obliged to retreat preci pitately, narrowly escaping with his life. The distance from Amphilla Bay to Magdala is about 40 or 50 miles less than from Massowah. 4. Route from Suakim to Kassala, Metemma\ and Gondar. — Suakim is a port of the Red Sea, belonging to the Egyptians, from whence they keep up their commiinications with their fron tier post at Kassala, where they have a considerable force. It is * The inhabitants of the plains. AND ROUTES LEADING TO ABYSSINIA. 11 stated by Sir S. Baker to be from 16 to 20 days' journey from the latter for a laden camel. That traveller also states that plenty of camels, and the necessary water skins for the journey across the desert, can be procured there, but the water is brackish, and a large supply of Nile water would therefore have to be brought from Suez. Throughout the desert route fodder for the camels is afforded by numerous Mimosas, and water is found every second or third day. This route was travelled by Mr. Hamilton in 1854, who gives a minute account of it, extracts from which are given at page 130 (marked AA on map page 39). He suffered considerably from heat and want of water in some places, but he, made the journey at the worst time of year. The town of Kassala is fortified, and from 6,000 to 8,000 Egyptian troops are usually, according to Sir S. Baker, quartered in the district. It is situated on the Gash or Mareb, which, although dry at some periods' of the year, affords an unlimited supply of good water from wells dug ha its sandy bed. During the dry season, from 15th Novem ber to1 1st June, the climate is healthy, but at all other seasons the country is extremely dangerous.* A peculiar fly appears with the first rains, that destroys all domestic animals. From Kassala there is a route to Adowa by the Base country, which was traversed by Miinzinger in 1861-2. The usual r6ute to Gondar is by Metenlmah. This was the one followed by Mr. Rassam. There appears to be also a road from 'Sofie, half way between Kassala and Metemmah, which leads by the Takazze into the Massowah-Gondar road'; this was followed by Mansfield Parkyns in the summer of 1845 ; also, for some portion, by Baker in 1861-2. From Metemmah there seem to be^two- roads to Gondar, one to the north, the other to the south. The former was followed by Bruce on his return home from Abyssinia in 1771-2 (marked Z 1 on map page 39). He gives a very graphic account of it, extracts from which are- given at page 134. Between Gondar and Shelkin, or Tcherkm, he. found the country well wooded and watered, generally pass ing two, or three streams a day. After passing Teherkin, the route lay through enormous forests, roamed over by elephants and other wild beasts. As they approached Metemmah, the forests opened out into a park-like country. They complained a'gbod deal of the heat. The lower road was traversed by Krapf in May, 1855 (marked Z 2 on map page 39). The journey from Gondar to Metem mah occupied ten days, including two days' halt on the road; for the fijcst five days the ro,ute lay through the mountainous country of Abyssinia ; they then descended into a vast plain, interspersed with forests. The population of Metemmah is stated to be 1,500. A large market is held there. * Mr. Rassam, alluding to Kassala, writes-^— " Cholera and deadly fever were the scourge of the place from the month of July to October ; and even while I was there (hg, left on 9th November, 1865), nearly one-tenth of the garrison was laid up with dne Knot of disease' or otEei?," 12 GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY r. It may be observed that , the whole, route from Suakusa, by K&s^ala and Metemmah, to Gondar, is through the low country, until within four or five days' journey of Gondar, when the Abyssinian highlands are reached. The distance from Suakim to Gondar is about 600 or 700 miles. Dr. Beke also mentions a road "running westward from the sea coast at Raheita, just within the straits of Babelmandeb ;" and he states that the road by Senate may be reached from Hareha, in Hawakil Bay. The following short account of the different harbours which cammunicate with the routes that have been mentioned, has been furnished by the- Hydrographer to the Admiralty. Massowah.— Eight or ten of the largest ships with double the number of smaller ones could be securely moored in the harbour. There is also a good harbour called Daha-leah, larger than Massowah, about a mile to the north. In both of these the water is quite smooth. The fresh, water supply is from tjanks in the island of Massowah. There is fresh water also at Daha-leah. Fresh water is not abundant either here or in any other part of the Red Sea, but the supply at Massowah could probably be increased by digging wells on the main land. TJjere^ is a pier with facilities for landing on Massowah island which is connected with the main land by low wet ground about a mile in length. The rainy - season is from November to March. It is 380 miles from Aden, and 290 from Perim. The navi gation for the greater part of the way is clear and safe-, and for the whole way in the daytime for carefully navigated ships. -Ansley Bay. — The water is inconveniently deep. It is des cribed as presenting a remarkable contrast in point of fertility to other spots, bordered by low land producing rich pastures. Fresh water may be procured. Although not so convenient a spot for naval operations as Massowah, yet, if other advantages preponderated in favour of it, it is more than probable that no great difficulties, would be encountered on account of the ship's anchorage, landing, &c. Suakin. — The harbour is very small, the approach is studded with dangers, and there is no outside anchorage. It is extremely hot. Thermometer in May ranges from 89° to 91°, in June from 93° to 97°, very much less vegetation than at Massowah. Water procured from wells. Amphilla is described as the most miserable spot on the coast of Abyssinia. In regard to anchorage, facilities for land ing, &c, it is not to be compared to Massowah; according to the Admiralty charts it is very circumscribed and intricate. Tajurrah is quite unsafe and exposed to the north-east mon soon, as well as the southerly winds, and it is Jprobable that ships could not lie there, nor a landing be effectecf very often. AND ROUTES LEADING TO ABYSSINIA. U There, is no other spot- but Massowah, and its immediate neighbourhood where ships could lie safely for any time, and where troops and munitions of war could be disembarked with celerity and safety. The following are some of the principal towjis of Abya- einia : — Gondar, in Amhara. — The capital of the kingdom. This town is stated by Heuglin, 1862, to have contained from 6,000 to 7,000 inhabitants, but it is said to have been within the last twe or three years totally destroyed by the Emperor Theodore. Bebra Tabor, in Amhara. — Formerly a small village. It is now a place of considerable size, and the residence of the Emperor Theodore. Near Debra Tabor is Gaffat, where the European workmen of the Emperor reside, and which may be considered as his arsenal. Adowa,* the capital of Tigre. This is the second city im the kingdom. It is stated by MM. Ferret and Galinier to have contained in 1840 not more than 4,000 inhabitants. Heuglin, in 1862, put the population at 6,000. The miserable nature of Abyssinian towns may be judged of by the description given by Mansfield Parkyns, in 1843, of this, the second city of the Empire. He says, — " I own I rather expected to see columns or obelisks, if not an acropolis, on some of the neighbouring hills. Judge, then, of my astonishment when, on ari-iving at this great city, the capital of one of the most powerful kingdoms of ^Ethiopia, I found nothing but a large straggling village of huts, some flat- roofed, but mostly thatched with straw, and the walls of all of them, built of rough stones, laid together with mud, in the rudest possible manner. Being wet, moreover, with the rain, the place presented the most miserably dirty appearance^" Mr. Dufton, who visited Adowa, puts its population at 10,000. Antalo. — The capital of Enderta, and one of the principal towns -of Tigre. It is said by Ferret and Galinier to contain from 200 to 300 houses. Chelicut, near Antalo. — This town is said by Lefebvre and Ferret and Galinier to contain about 3,000 inhabitants. ' Sokota, the capital of Laag and Wasta, is a place of con siderable size. Dixan, in Tigre. — This is the first town that is met with after surmounting the Taranta passes. Ferret and Galinier say of it, — " A group of wretched huts, scattered irregularly on the top of a barren mountain, a miserable village, containing- about 1,500 souls, Christians and Mussidmans, there is Dixah." Tzazega. — The capital of Hamazeu, said by Heuglin t® contain from 1,500 to 2,000 inhabitants. * Near Adowa is Axuin, the anciont capital, among whotc uuns, obelisks, churches-, and Greek and Abyssinian inscrii'tiom still bear witnes-s to it* former importance. 1* GOVERNMENT OP ABYSSINIA. ¦- ¦A%fbvaMy.~ The capital of Tembien. Mr. Dufton says that lfe*e place is ifeihoraedan, and has an occasional market, and that, when he entered it, about 2,000 people were assembled in the market place. Addigraht.^ The capital of A,game. ¦ JBawzen, «r Aouissi-enne: — The capital of Haramat. Mota. — A large town in Godjam, said by Dr. Beke, to con* teffi&'^,000 inhabitants. Ankobar. — The capital of Shoa. ¦ Angolala.— This is a place of considerable me,. that as he went by there with a Lion, Ras Oella Ohistos sent to Moea, three or four of his servants vanished on a sudden, and' he could never hear of them afterwards. In one place there is a mount of red salt, which is much used in physic. This ;is to- be passed over by night, because the heat is so violent -in the day, that travellers and beasts are stifled, and the very shoes- parch lip, as if they were laid on burning coals. We entered upon it at three .in the afternoon, >and it pleased God that the- sun clouded, which the renegado Moor attributed to his prayers." Mr. Dufton says that Abbi Addy in Tembien "is the last place. where the salt of Amhara is taken as money. The nearer one gets to the coast where are the salt mines, of course the less is- the value of the mineral ; and in Tigre cotton cloth takes its- place as a medium of exchange." MILITARY STRENGTH OF ABYSSINIA. It is very difficult to estimate the military strength of a country like Abyssinia^ as, from what has been before stated of the nature of the Government, it will be seen that the forces Which a Sovereign of Abyssinia can bring into the field will depend very much upon his own personal character, and upon the number of Chiefs over whom he has any influence. In a Memorandum communicated by the Foreign Office to the RoyaJI Geographical Society, in 1855, there is the following- paragraph bearing upon this subject : — " "lhe immediate troops of the Ras consist of a number of petty chiefs, governing one, two,, or more villages, who imitate* as far as they dare, the independence of the greater barons., and who take the field when called on with .500 men, ac cording to their means. Besides these, who are numerous,. the Ras has his matchlock men, and four or five bands of rude and MILITARY STRENGTH OF ABYSSINIA. Jt& disorderly soWieEy, his guards. From the low system of ,$Qr vernment, and the manner of paying these men "by quartejajag' them on. the country people, with instructions to levy so. much .^•ain, or- other property, it may be supposed, that these un- wsdphoecfc troops,, when at a, small distant from the camp, are almost equally independent of the Ras* and frequently are simply organized bands of robbers, &c." -.: The nature of an Abyssinian army may be- gathered? from the following graphic description* given by Major Harris, q£ a marauding expedition of the King of Shoa,. which, he. accom panied in 1840':— He says,, " The military system of Shoa bs»g, eiithsgLy feudaL, each governor of the. realm is. required to furnish hi£ contingent of militia, m proportion to his landed tenure,, his peasantry being at all times ready for the foray and expected to purvey horses, arms, and provisions without payment, from the State., Four hundred fusiliers,, bondsmen of the King,, alone receive pay., Little; discipline exists in the army thus, composed, but considerable tact is evinced in its organization and dis tribution."' The following, was the proclamation by which the King mustered hia forces :—" Hear, oh hear! Behold we have foes and would trample upon then necks. Prepare ye, everyone, for war. Qn the approaching festival of Abba Kinos,r whoso faueth to present himself as a good and loyal subject, mounted, armed,, and carrying provisions for 21 days, shall" be held, as a traitor,, and shall forfeit his property during 17 years."" Oh the appointed da,j they commenced their march,. " Im mediately im advance of the army, screened beneath a canopy of scarlet broad cloth, -were borne, on an ambling mule, the Holy Scriptures and the, Ark of the Cathedral of St. Michael. The King rode next upon, a richly caparisoned" mute, a small sgace- Bound the Royal person being kept clear by the corps of shield bearers, who were- flanked on. the right l>j fusiliers and matchlock men of the Body Guard, and on the left by the band of kettle drums, on donkeys, with trumpets and wind instru ments* Numerous governors,,, judges, monks, priests, and singers, followed^ and! behind, them rqde a curious accompani ment* to a martial expedition. Forty dames and damsel's pro fessing the. aulihary art. with elaborately crisped beehive wigs, greased faces,, bedaubed with ochre, and arched blue eyebrows,. were muffled in crimson-striped robes of cotton — a demure> as semblage,, rigorously guarded on all sides hj austere euniwens, armed; with loisg,. white wands. Beyond, far as the eye could penetrate, the canopy of dust which hung, over the horifess, "every hill and valley swarms with masses- of equestrians and pedestrians, hejaehmej*, and camp followers, sumpter horses,. asses, and mules,. laden with, tenis, horns of old mead, andlbafs of "gro^isibns. Throngs, of women carrying pitchers of beer and bydromel at their backs, and fed* with glittering, sheaves of spears, upon their shoulders,, leading gaily caparisoned war 20 MILITARY STRENGTH OP ABYSSINIA. steeds, — all mixed and crowded together in the most pic turesque disorder and confusion." " At the termination of the fifteenth mile, the ladies and- their eunuchs having hovered about for sometime in uncer tainty, finally settled down, like a flight of flamingos, in a pretty secluded valley, through which winds the deep, muddy Baroga." The whole then encamped round the Royal tents- covering a space of five miles in diameter. " Early in the ensuing morning, the Royal drums beat to saddle, and, in half an hoUr, the army, which had swelled to about 15,000 fighting men, was in motion over a country especially-favourable to advance. Some military precautions were how observed. Large brigades of horses serving as flank ing parties, and the heights on the right and left being crowned with patrols." When they arrived on the scene of the proposed campaign, they burst into a valley occupied by a hostile tribe of Gallas, Mled every male they could catch, carried the women and children into captivity, burnt the houses, and destroyed the crops. Theodore's army in his prosperous days was estimated as high as 60,000 men. It probably did not differ much in its constitution from that described by Harris. It is stated that he tried to introduce a better system of discipline in it, but was obliged to give up the attempt, owing to the irritation caused! by it among the soldiers. From the accounts of the captives, it does not appear that he can muster now more than 5,000 men. His attempt to have guns and mortars made by his European workmen at Gaffat appears to have been a failure. Mr. Dufton thus describes a visit to Theodore's army, about 1863 : — " The king's army possibly consisted of some 50,000 warriors, but the number of camp followers is often double that of the army itself, which, of course, adds much to the unmanage- ableness of the whole"; indeed, there is little or no system in Abyssinian warfare. It consists in rushing pall-mall upon the foe, hurling the spear, which is then- principal arm, and picking up and re-hurling the spent darts of the enemy. The musket, which is mostly in the hands of the Tigrean soldiers, is even less effective than the spear, and the amount of powder and shot wasted must be enormous. The sword is seldom brought into requi sition, as arm to arm combat is Unfrequent." The following notes on the army and fortresses of Abyssinia have been communicated by Captain Webber, R.E., and Captain Hobart, R.A., who received the information from M. Legean, who was French Vice-Consul at Massowah, in 1863 : — Army. — The battalion is the unit. It consists nominally of 1,000 men, and is commanded by a chief and numerous under officers. The fighting strength only amounts to 250 well- armed men, and about 150 to 200 half-armed followers, the remainder being merely servants. A thousand rations are MILITARY STRENGTH OF ABYSSINIA; $1 drawn for each battalion, the number includingjabout 250 women. These details apply only to Theodore's regular army, of which he can muster about 60;000j* who are quartered in time of peace on the various districts of the country. Of these, 20,000 are armed with percussion fire-arms ; the rest with sword and spear. Owing to the badness of the quality of the fire-arms, they count much more on the latter than on the former. Their powder is chiefly imported. Rigid obedience is exacted to the immediate superior officer, but there is no attempt at formation except for defence, when they form line, the front rank kneel ing, and covering themselves with shields of rhinoceros' hides. There is no attempt to carry artillery in the field, but they have many guns and mortars in the forts, or " ambas." Monsieur Legean considers that the Abyssinians are brave even to temerity, and that they would not, in the' first instance, try to defend the passes, but would rather allow an army to enter the country, and attack them in the open field. He speaks of having witnessed reviews and sham fights. The irregular army is the feudal following of the great chiefs, and its numbers depend on the willingness of the chiefs to obey the Emperor's summons. They might amount to nearly 100,000 men. Monsieur Legean considers that it is important that no cause should be given to the population to believe that the war is of a religious character. If Theodore could excite this belief, he thinks that the whole country would join him. To a Christian army all Tigre would be friendly, and the country people, if they once get confidence, would be glad to furnish all sorts of supplies. They have a character for honesty, and for keeping to agreements. Forts. — The hill forts, or ambas, occupy the summits of small table mountains where water is to be had. They are scarped on all sides, and have only one means of access — by a winding ascent. It is rarely necessary to fortify the summits, or build a rampart. M. Legean considered them impregnable to assault, and unassailable by mining operations, on account of the basaltic formations. They could generally, however, be taken by stratagem. Their garrisons only consist of 300 or 400 men, and then- chief use is as dep6ts, &c. The greatest number of them being to the south, they are not likely to prove an obstacle early in the campaign. The following are some of the principal forts : — „ Gondar. — Although this is the capital, its capture would not have much effect on Theodore, whose policy is to have no fixed residence, so that it cannot be said, if any one important town is taken, that he has lost its capital. The capture of Gondar would give possession of the richest part of the country .t Tchelga. — South-west of Gondar. Very strong. * This evidently refers to an earlier portion of Theodore's career, probably about 1863. . t By the latest accounts it appears that Gondar has been destroyed. 23 . sescjkipt.jqn; qw theobqrr Amba Mas.— South of the Taccazy, in Samen, near ,the Ghaakne* pass. Amba, Gah.-^ South-east of Gondar. Ajfavourite residence of the Emperor, and a state prison. A v.ery strong natural position. Selalhdla. — .Near Wabet, Very strong. Magdala.. — Said to be very strong, but never seen, by M. Legean, (A description of this fort is given by Steudner, page 250.) Djibella. — Near the Abai. river. Very strong, naturally and artificially. There are so»e. three forts in the country lying between Gondar and Magdala ; one near Zengadi, one at Emfcas, and one at Mahdera Mariam. Bevra Bamo. — North-east of Adowa is a monastery, hi a very strong position, overlooking, the route. It is also arti ficially strengthened. There is a fort near Aoussienne, in the- Haramat country, the favourite residence of King Oubi, the great enemy of Theo dore. Between Yaha and Guendepta, north of Adowa, there is, a very strong pass. One of the great obstacles on the route between Adowa and Gondar is the Chaakne Pass, in Wagara.. The ascent is a zigzag, and very difficult, occupying a whole day. It is. the greatest impediment for guns in the whole route. (This appears to be the Lamabnon Pass described! by Ferret and Galinier, see page 56, and by Bruce, see page 242.) DESCRIPTION OF THEODORE. The Emperor Theodore, Mr. Dufton tells us, was bom about 1820, in the province of Kwara, which is situated to the west of Lake Tsana, and of which his uncle was Governor. His mother was,, according to some, of low extraction, but, according to others, she was of good birth, and could even trace her descent from the Queen of Sheba, the orthodox ancestress of Abyssinian Royalty. Kassa, for such is the Emperor's real name, soon dis tinguished himself by his bravery and talent for war, and on the death of his uncle he acquired the government of the province of Kwara. He soon enlarged his dominions by the conquest of adjacent provinces, and at length, after having experienced varying fortunes, he defeated Ali Ras of Amhara, whose daughter he had previously married, and effected the conquest of that province. The element of religion, which is so singularly blended in Theodore's character, is shown by the prayer which he publicly offered up after his victory, and which is as follows : " I praise thee, 0> God,, that Thou hast manifested. Thy gpod- * Ajjnaiently thflrsjuae as. -foe Lamalmon Pass. DESSR4PM>N P-F THE<®OBE. 2:3; nqss- to a poor sinner like me. Whom Thou humblest is< humbled, and whom Thou exaltest is exalted. Thi»e is the power and glory, for ever and ever," Being now installed, at Gondar as Ras of Amhara, a rank which, .carried with it the nominal allegiance of the whole of Abyssinia, Kassa sent to ¦ claim tribute from Oubie, Prince of Tigre. This being refused, he marched with an army ®gmmt him, and, having defeated him in the battle of D.eraskAe* he had himself crowned as Negus Theodoras, or Kmg of Kings of Ethiopia. His assumption of the name of Theodorus appears to have been made in consequence of an ancient prophecy that an Emperor of that name would raise the kingdom of Abyssinia to an unprecedented pitch of greatness,. He then attacked the W olio Gallas, a^Mahomedan tribe between Amhara and Shoa, and defeated them in a battle, in which then- king, Adara Bille, was .slain. Theodore had thus made himself master ,of the whole of Abyssinia with the exception of Shoa, which had long been virtually an independent state. Against this kingdom he now directed his arms, and soon succeeded in completely subju gating it, thus reuniting under his sway the whole of the so long djspeited provinces of Abyssinia. His next project was to drive the Turks from their po.ssessions.on the coast, and thus to acquire for Abyssinia an outlet on the Red Sea, an advantage which that uounstryrhad not possessed since Massowah was taken by the Turks in the 16th century. This however he was never in a position to attempt. His conquered provinces revolted, and the .cruel element in his .character which «oon developed itself so alienated his subjects, that they gradually foil away from him ujrtil now the seems to hold little territory beyond that in the immediate neighbourhood of Debra Tabor which he has made his capital, Theodore appears to be a man of great talent, courage, and energy, with a singular power of command over others, Mr. Dufton, who saw him in 1863, thus describes him.:. "His appearance was that of a man of about forty-five, of middlmg stature and possessed of a well knit but not oyer powerful frame, .conveying more the idea of being tough and why than of ;gt«Qng physical development. His complexion is dark, ap- pEoaching to black, but he has nothing of the negro about him. His features are altogether those of ,an European. His head is well formed, and his hah- is arranged in large plaits extending back from the forehead. His forehead is high and tends to ,be prominent. His eye is black, full of fire, quid?; and piercing. His nose has a little of the Roman about it, being slightly arched and pointed. His .mouth is perfect, and the smile, whioh,. durjnig the conversation, -continually played upon it,, was exceedingly agreeable,, I may say fascinating. He has very little moustache or beard. His manner was peculiarly pleasant., gracious, and even polite, and his general expression, even when his features were at rest, was one of intelligence and 24 DESCRIPTION OF THEODORE. benevolence. Oil the whole, the physiognomist could find no trace of fierce passion save in the lightning 'glance of his eyes. I watched for the keen shot of light coming from them at times,1 and reflected upon what he could be capable of, but they did not strike ine as treacherous eyes. I felt that he 'could act savagely under irritation." He adds in a note, " I here take occasion to remark that, though Theodore consumes a vast quantity of Arracky, he is no drunkard ; that is, I have never heard of him being overcome with drink. He always stops at a certain point." •In another place Mr. Dufton gives a curious trait of the Emperor. " All the time that Theodore was speaking of these warlike preparations, he was playing with a little child of M. Bourgaud's, which he had seated alongside of him on the caipet, between himself and M. Legean; and certainly, a stranger who saw him there for the first time, and who knew nothing of his antecedents; would have found it difficult to believe that he was the cruel monster which recent accounts unite in describing him." M. Legean has given in his work a picture of Theodore which agrees very well with Mr. Dufton's description of him. Since the date of Mr. Dufton's visit, the cruel side of the Emperor's character appears, from the accounts of the captives of Magdala, to have been developed to the utmost. Dr. Blanc, ohe of the prisoners, writes on the 18th June, 1867, from Magdala. "A priest who arrived here a few days ago, having accom panied Ras Adilon in his flight, states that 650 Wadela men were executed on the day previous to the desertion of the Yadja people. A follower of the King accused them before His Majesty of intending to run aWay. The Wadela.Chiefs denied the charge; the accuser brought nine witnesses. The case heard, the Wadela people were allconducted into an inclosure prepared beforehand ; lbgs of wood were tied round their necks ; their arms and legs bound with leather thongs ; helpless and innocent they fell easy victims to the executioner's sword. One of the Chiefs, whilst awaiting his turn, shouted at the top of his voice, so that the King, who was at no great distance, might hear himself the dying words of his former staunch fol lower ; ' Oh, King, you murder me in cold blood ; is that the reward of my long and faithful services ? I am going to die, but, before long, will meet yon before a just judge, where I and my innocent companions ¦will become your accusers. Believe a dying man ; you will not survive us more than a few days.' " It appears that these words made a temporary impression on the superstitious and cowardly mind of the despot. He has since then, it is rumoured, turned up a new leaf, is constantly in prayers, calls himself the 'slave of Christ,' and will probably build a church to obtain absolution from the priests, and wash off,- if possible, from his conscience, the innocent blood in which he daily carouses. DESCRIPTION OP THEODORE. 25. " The wife and child of Zalalu fared even worse than the Wadela people. This poor woman and her child were wrapped up in wax clothes and burned like candles. Their cries were heard for many miles around, and increased, if possible, the hatred and desire of vengeance of the already exasperated peasantry. "In the history of the world there is no parallel case. It is true tyrants and despots have wantonly spilt human blood, great conquerors have oven-un large tracts of country : out of 3,000,000 inhabitants he has destroyed more than a third by war^ famine, and murder. Nero, Attila, Tamerlane, were lambs when compared to Theodoras. No man was ever so false, so treacherous — no man held friendly or family ties so cheap. His own son, Ras Meshisha, is in chains. Ras Taga, whom he left in charge of his camp during his late expedition, was chained ; a reward for his fidelity on the return of his ungrateful master. We are not therefore astonished when we daily hear of fresh desertions." On the 2nd July, 1867, Mr. Flad, one of the prisoners at Debra Tabor, writes : — " We are in perpetual fear of our lives. The king during the last six weeks has had 4,000 persons put to death, soldiers and peasants, either burning them, or cutting then- throats like beasts, or shooting them. He has caused, women and children to be tortured, dishonoured, and starved in an unheard-of manner." And again on the 13th August : — " His Majesty enjoys good health now, and is in excellent spirits ; he is progressing in subduing his rebellious peasants and deserted soldiers by the sword and by the fire. There is no doubt if he will go on in this manner scarcely a man or female will be left alive. A beautiful island in the Lake Tsana, Mahuska, was lately burnt with itsinhabitants, the peasants of both sexes, aged grey-bearded people and little children, were in vast numbers burnt. All the villages about are heaps of ashes, and the churches broken down. Inside the hedge, which surrounds the camp here, His Majesty reigns ; outside his name is not known. Peasants hiding themselves in caverns, and deserted soldiers come near to the fence every night, crying out the. hardest truths, which are called insults." There seems little doubt that the subjects of Theodore, incited by these acts of cruelty, are almost universally in open rebellion. The great provinces of Tigre and Shoa have resumed what may be called' their chronic state of rebellion. The Wollo Gallas are, as usual, hostile, but their hostility seems to be complicated by the fact of their having two rival Queens. But the most formidable rebel appears to be the Waagshum Gobazie, who rules over the mountainous and almost inaccessible regions of Waag and Lasta.* His movements, however, seem * Hi j dominions are she-srn on tile map at the end of the yohime by a green tint. 26 MSCtfFTXOtf Ol« 'KHEOdSiSE: to be very vacillating. Mr. Rassam writes on the .30*h June, 1867 :— ' . *,l - . " Waksbun Gobazay, the- chief rebel of Tigre and Laistay has sent to the Bishop to say that he was coming to attaet TOis fortress and give Mm his liberty, and if that be accomplished we shall aU be free. The messenger reports that he left his m-sesteT with an enormous army near Wadala, about five days' journey hence, and that all the rebel* districts from Debra Tabor to. this have sent deputations to him to join him, and it is premised that, once Wakshun Gobazay approaches this" neighborhood, our royal friend would be done for.. There is no doubt that, if Wakshun Gobazay succeeds in capturing this strongholdf (accords ing to Abyssinian estimation), he will be proclaimed Emperor by the Bishop, and there is no doubt that, once he gets the heads of the Abyssinian church, the prelate and the- chief of the monks (who are both my friends), he will have the greater part of Abyssinia on his side." But on 24th July he writes : — " I fear if England does not get us out by force of arms we shall have to spend many an August in this wretched state, and Wakshum Goteaze has done so little since he came up to 'this vicinity that I have lost all hope of ever leaving this- country through the succour of the rebels, for whom I am beginning to have utter contempt. I do net believe there is a more- cowaw&y race than these Abyssinian rebels, who allow themselves to fee butchered and plundered and have no pluck to attaek then- common enemy, against whom they might take a force of not less than 10©;000 men (that is to say, if all join), and I am certain with the handful of men His Majesty has now, and the disgust every one has for him, he would not be able to- hold his ground one day. The rebel chiefs talk very big, but do very little. We have not heard of the movements of Wakshum Gobaze since I last wrote to you in the beginning- of this month ; all his big talk about attacking the Emperor and releasing' the Bishop and myself and party has dwindled to nothing. Obe day we heard that he had made friends with the Walloo Gallas upon their promising to pay him tribute, and the next, it is reported that he had to retreat to Lasta for fear of the Gallas, who had gone to Yago to turn him out of it." Dr. Blanc writing of the same chief on the 18th July, 18*7, says : — " You will have seen by the two small notes enclosed in assy two last letters, what the King's two great rivals propose to undertake. ¦ I was not wrong when I took it to be simply boast ing. From the first nothing more has been heard ; the second sent another messenger, who told the Bishop, on the part of his master, ' you know that we cannot take forts, so it would be useless for me to come; but give me your blessing, aa^I wfll go and attack my blood enemy.' The required blessing was duly given, but though a fortnight ago, this would-be hero still, remains in the Yedjon's country. Some say that he is acknow- poRTTOttesfi -m&mmm into AStasmtt. 27 ledged by them, And has appointed the son of Ras Marie" (brother of Ras Aali) as Governor of the province ; whilst others report t&at a large section of the population still in arms resist his authority, and have called upon the Queen of the Gallas to render- them assistance. It is generally reported that she has gone in that direction, but whether for peace or war is doubtful, though 'Gallas seldom fight far from then- own country ; and probably as the rival Queen is to be befriended by Shoa, they will endeavour to form an alliance with Gobazi. Whatever may be his- position in Yedjon, acknowledged or not, he will far less attack the King than this mountain ; the fallen and humble lion is, even in his weakness, much more dreaded than all the1 ambas of Abyssinia put together. Gobazi is rising, the King is falling; the first knows well that the- King can no more march against him, and must before veiy long retire here or run to the low country, so Gobazi quietly waits until, by mere necessity, the whole of the Amhara must recognize him. His messages to the Bishop are the natural consequences of his birth, all Abyssinians being story-tellers and boasters, and the greater the man the more he indulges in such freaks. That Gobazi is morally no better, quite as treacherous as tine King, a fact that happened a few -days ago clearly proves. You remember Rasadiloo, the Yedjon chief about whom I wrote to you some time ago. He we%t to the Wakshum, was well received and told to remain as a friend and guest, but a few days ago he was seized by his order and put in chains — a simple measure of precaution. This is not the man into whose hands I would like to fall." Of the provinces more immediately under Theodore's rule, nearly the whole seem now to have revolted. Dr. Blanc, writing on the 18th June, 1867, says : — ".A few months ago the King still had a few provinces left ; small remains of his former conquests, now he cannot even call himself monarch of all he surveys, when he gazes on the sur rounding plains from the summit of Debra Tabor. The camp and Magdala constitute his kingdom." PORTUGUESE EXPEDITION INTO ABYSSINIA. The only instance, as far as is known, of an invasion of Abys sinia by European troops, was in 1541, when 400 Portuguese were sent to the assistance of the Emperor, whose kingdom was overrun bythe " Moors " (apparently the tribes now called Gallas). It has been supposed by some that these troops entered Abyssinia from Zeila, Amphilla Bay, or some other point considerably to the «outb of Massowah ; but there seems little doubt that this was not thg case, but that they made their entry from the latter place or from Arkiko, four miles to the south. The event is thus described in "The Travels of the Jesuits in Ethiopia," which was published in 1710 :— 28 PORTUGUESE EXPEDITION INTO ABYSSINIA. " In the year 1541, Bon Stephen de Gama, then Governor of India, entered the Red Sea with a considerable Fleet, and having done much Harm to the infidels on the Coast of Arabia, came to an anchor at the Island of Mazua, whence he sent his Brother, Bon Christopher de Gama, with 400 Men to the As sistance of the Emperor of Ethiopia. These Men met with extraordinary Difficulties in passing the uncouth Mountains, over which it was almost impossible to draw their canon, but having overcome them, and being met everywhere by the country people, who looked upon them as their Deliverers, they brought down the Empress Cabelo Oanguel from the Mountain Bamo (apparently Debra Damo, between Halai and Adowa), to which she was retired for Safety, there being no way to get up it, but being hoisted in Baskets " Intelligence being brought that Five Portuguese Vessels were arrived at Mazua, Bon Christopher sent a Captain of his own, with 40 Men to get some supply of Ammunition, and carry Letters for the Viceroy of India, and set forward himself, with his forces towards a Country, where a Christian Abyssine had been compelled to submit to the Moors, and now sent to inform him, that if he would come to him he would find no opposition. He had not gone far before he received an express from the Emperor, desiring he would make haste to join him, because the Moor Granhe was advancing towards them, 3nd each apart would be too weak to withstand him. Being come to those Lands, whither the Ethiopian commander, above men tioned, had invited him, he was met and presented by him with Eight fine Horses, and informed the Enemy was so near that he could not advance without meeting them. It troubled Bon Christopher that he could neither join the Emperor, nor stay for those Men he had sent to Mazua, however he resolved to Fight, and, encouraging his Men, they all approved of his Resolution. The next Day, the Enemy being at hand, he encamped on a Rising Ground, when Granhe, having taken a View of his small Forces, enclosed him with 15,000 foot, armed with Bows and Arrows, Darts, and Bucklers, besides 1,500 horse and 200 Turkish Musquetiers, thinking to starve him out. Bon Christo pher, understanding his Design, after some small Skirmishes, drew out all his Men with the Empress in the center, on the 4th of April, 1542. The Canon and Muskets made the Infidels keep off, but the lurks advanced, and did some harm with their Shot, and Granhe himself coming on with 500 horse, the Portu gueses began to be hard pressed, but that the canon being well played killed many of the Horse and made the rest slacken. Many of the Portugueses were now wounded, and Bon Christo pher, shot through a Leg, yet left not the Battle, but en couraged his Men. Granhe, on the other side, thinking his Men gave way, came up so close, that he was also shot through the Leg, and his Horse killed under him, whereupon his Men struck their Colours, and carryed him off, the Portugueses pur suing them till they were all so spent that it was thought a PORTUGUESE EXPEDITION INTO ABYSSINIA. 29 rashness to. go any, further, and therefore they returned victo rious to their Camp, where they found the Empress and her Women, dressing the wounded Men and binding their Hurts with their own Linnen, for want of other. Of the Portugueses Eleven were killed, among the Infidels slain the A byssines knew four of Granhe's Commanders of Note, and thirty Tuxks. Bon Christopher sent that very Night to acquaint, the Portugueses, who were gone to Mazua, with his Success, and hasten them back." There seems no doubt from this narrative, that Massowah was the starting point and base, of the expedition., The. Por tuguese were subsequently defeated by Granhe, and Don Chris topher was killed.' In " Purchas's Pilgrimes " (vol. 2, page 1151), an account of this expedition is also given by Don John Bermudez, who. was sent on an embassy to the Emperor of Ethiopia from the King of Portugal, and who accompanied Christopher do , Gama and his force. In the account of the preliminary operations, a "Captaine of the King of Zeila" is mixed up in the transac tions, which may have originated the idea that the expedition started from Zeila (latitude 11^°, longitude 43-^°), but Arquico is afterwards distinctly mentioned as the starting point. In the course of the narration Don John says,— "And beginning t« travel! within three day es we came to Bebarua. Within a few dayes they ysed Schismaticall and Hereticall Ceremonies, . differing from the Romane. I satisfied the best I could Bon Christopher and his men, and the mmmuring ceased, and they concluded how to carrie the Ordnance when they iourneyed. They made presently certaine carriages like vnto ours: the which, because in the countrey there was no Iron, they shod them with certain old caleeuers, which brake, because they vould serue for no other vse." ; In Rudolph's History of Ethiopia (p. 222),it is said, speak ing of the same expedition, " Their commander was Christopher Gomez, a Person of great Valour, who, in the month of July, in the year 1541, entered the Kingdom with Six small Field- Pieces, and Four hundred and fifty Musqueteers. At first they had a very severe March, for they wanted Horses and Teams; ,the country being so wasted, that they were forced to carry .their. Luggage and Conveniences upon then- shoulders over most rugged and steep Mountains. , Nevertheless, these Souldiers, few in number, but all choice men, and coveting the honor to restore the King of Ilabessiniatp his Kingdom and his Liberty, patiently underwent all sorts of hardship. This caused a change. of Fortune, so that now the. late Victors were every where put to flight, astonished at the Execution of the Guns." There seems no doubt that, until Massowah was taken by the Turks in 1557, it was always the port by which Abyssinia was entered. • In 1555 a mission went to the Emperor, and re turned by, that way. In. .1557 the . Bishop Don Andrew de Oviedo entered' by Arkiko.' The capture of Massowah by the 30 ROUTES TO MAGDALA FROM THE NORTH. Turks in that year is thus described by the Superior of the Mission in Ethiopia, writing in 1562 to the General of the Society : — " Having mentioned the coming of the Turks, I must inform your Reverence that when we came to Mazua, an Island on the coast of Ethiopia, and the anchoring place of all ships trading hither from India and Arabia, we there found a Turkish Bassa with 500 or more men, designed to conquer Ethiopia, and expected the arrival of our ships ; when, seeing those that came could do him no harm, he landed, and that obliged us to depart hastily from Bebaroa ; and though we have been here above five years, we do not know that any letter of ours is past into India, notwithstanding we have tried so many ways, that we feared the men sent by us were killed." When Massowah was thus closed, as a port of ingress and egress, by the Turks, other routes were tried. In 1 588, some Jesuits, not being able to land at Massowah, attempted Zeilah. In 1595 a Jesuit tried to get through Massowah, but, being dis covered, had his head cut off. In 1596 a Jesuit effected an entrance by Massowah, disguised as a seaman. In 1603 and 1604 some Jesuits, by making friends with one of the leading Turks, effected an entry by Massowah. In 1607 the Emperor sent an Embassy to Portugal by way of the Nile, " to escape falling into the hands of the Turks at Mazua." In 1620 two Jesuit Fathers' entered by way of Suakim. In 1622 four Fathers entered with a pass from the Pasha of Suakim. Jn 1625 Don Alonzo Mendez and Jerome Lobo entered by Baylur (Amphilla Bay). Things then seemed to improve. In 1628 five Jesuits, after meeting with some troubles fi-om the Turks, got through Mas sowah. In 1630 a bishop was suffered to go from the same place to Fremoha " without any obstruction." In 1769 Bruce entered the country by Massowah, and since his time, with the exception of those who entered from the side of the Nile, there seems to have been no instance of any travel lers entering by any other route, with the exception of Coffin, whose journey from Amphilla Bay was undertaken fi-om motives of curiosity only. The province of Shoa having been almost always in a state of rebellion or independence, its communica tion with the sea have been through Tajurrah, as the road to Massowah, besides being much longer, leads through their enemy's country. ROUTES TO MAGDALA FROM THE NORTH, BY THE EASTERN SIDE OF THE HIGHLANDS. Any force advancing from the Northern Highlands of Abyssinia on Gondar and Magdala have two formidable obstacles to encounter. The first is the ascent from the plains to the High- ROUTES TO MAGDALA PROM THE NORTH. 31 lands, involving a change in the nature of the transport on reaching the latter ; the second is the chains of mountams which stretch across the Highlands between the twelfth and fourteenth parallels of north latitude. These mountains attain then- greatest elevation in the provinces of Samen and Lasta, famous for their ruggedness, and the difficulty of their passes. The worst portion of these mountains may apparently be avoided by going to the westward by the Lamalmon Pass, which, although in itself a most formidable obstacle, yet does not seem to present that succession of mountains and defiles which are to be found on the Selki road. They may also be avoided by going' to the east by Lake Ashangi, by the route followed by Krapf to Antalo. Ah easterly course has also the advantage of following the water shed of the country, and thereby avoiding the great Rivers Mareb, Tahazze, &c, which, as has been before' stated, are formidable military obstacles, and are also very unhealthy. Any route to the east of Lake Haik would apparently lead through the hot country of the plains, where camel transport is necessary. This evidently would be objectionable, for, fi-om whatever side an expedition approached Magdala or Gondar, they must at some period exchange their camel for mule transport. It is true that the caravans find no difficulty in tra versing the low country with camels, and then changing to mules when they reach the .highlands ; but their requirements are probably limited to 100 or 200 of the latter, which the tribes on the caravan routes have got the habit of supplying. A British force, on the contrary, would require probably over 5,000 mules or horses, and if they advanced for any distance from the coast by a camel road, they would be in one of two predica- ments-^-either, when they reached the Highlands, they would have to Wait until the requisite number of animals could be collected, or they would have to bring mules with them across the plains destitute of water and suitable forage, an under taking probably impracticable. It might, however, be possible, if the route selected along the edge of the Highlands, to supple ment the transport by a camel fine. As the force advanced, and the line of communications became longer, the number of baggage animals required would be proportionately increased ; and if, when opposite Amphilla Bay, for instance, a camel com munication were established, the mule traffic might be sensibly lightened. This opportunity would be gained by selecting a route to Ategerat and Antalo, which approaches apparently the nearest to the eastern edge of the Higlilands. (See map at the end). From Antalo there exists, as already stated, a route towards Magdala, described by Krapf as a very favourable one (see extracts, page 137). From Magdala, past Lake Haik, it passes, according to his description, through a beautiful well-watered country, with fertile soil, in which there are many considerable villages, among others Totola, where, when he passed, a market was being held, attended by thousands of persons from Gondar, 32 ROUTES TO MAGDALA FROM THE NORTH. Tigre, &c. ; portions of this district, however, are only thinly inhabited. He says, " the climate of these plains is beautiful (April), neither too hot nor too cold, the ah being always refreshed by the winds blowing from the mountains ; there is plenty of water poured out from the veins of the neighbouring mountains." Soon after crossing the twelfth parallel he passes the watershed between the provinces of Angot and Lasta, and here for some ten miles he traversed a wilderness with much want of water. He then again descends to a country well watered and. fertile, and, in parts, well inhabited. Soon after passing Lat he traverses a small portion of a rather desolate country, where, he says, " we could scarcely find op way through the thorns and bushes, which caused us many difficulties in ad vancing towards the river." He then met with a mountain pass, of which he says, " our passage was sometimes extremely difficult and narrow. The banks of the mountain had sometimes the appearance of high walls of rocks, a slip from whence would cause certain death." The country from thence to Antalo was fertile and well watered, but hilly. There is also another road from Antalo through Sokota, which was followed by Dr. Beke (see extracts, page 172), and which he describes as the main caravan road from Antalo to Begemeder. This road traverses the mountainous districts of Lasta and Waag, and is probably, therefore, a more rugged one than Krapl's route, but better defined, being more frequently travelled over; between Sokota and the River Tzellari there seems to be a want of water. It also crosses the Takazze, but at a point where it does not seem to be a formidable obstacle. This route leads apparently too much to the left, and it is doubt ful whether a branch could be found from near Sokota to Mag dala, as very high mountains appear to intervene. From Antalo to the north Krapf followed the road by Atebi- dera to Addigraht, &c. (see extracts, page 165), but there seems to be the fatal objection on this line of want of water. Krapf, writing in May, snys, — "From Chelicut we took our directions to Adigrate. Oar road was pretty plain. Sometimes we had to ascend a slight hill ; but although we had now a better road, compared with that in Lasta and Waag, yet we were considera bly inconvenienced by not having plenty of water, which we had found in abundance in those countries. Besides this, the heat of the valleys of Tigre was an addition to those incon veniences with which our journey through that country had abounded, fi-om the inhospitable reception of the natives, and from the rumours of war, and dissoluteness of the soldier." (When talking of his inhospitable reception, it must be remem bered that Krapf was travelling with little or no money.) There is an intermediate road from Antalo to Addigraht, part of which was travelled by Riippell (see extracts, page 182), and which appears a favourable one, and not destitute of water. Beke, when at Antalo, went to Adowa (see extracts, page 179), but he says that his reason for this was that the direct ROUTES TO MAGDALA FROM THE NORTH. 33 road to Massowah, through Agamie, was rendered inaccessible by rebels. He seems to have met with no difficulties on the road. Salt travelled from Dixan to Chelikot near Antalo, by a route which appears to have been on the Avhole not unfavourable (see extracts, page 42). He travelled in the dry season of the year, February, and the only portion of the route where he experienced a want of water was in the neighbourhood of Dixan. He says, whilst journeying from the Taranta Pass to that town, " the heats became intense and scorching, vegetation parched, brooks dry The country round Dixan at this time of year wore a parched and desolate aspect," but he adds that "large herds of wild goats and kids are' brought in (to Dixan) every evening to protect them from wild beasts." After passing Dixan he says that " the whole country had the appear ance of being scorched, and we did not reach water until we had passed the high rock of Addicota," apparently about 15 miles fi-om Dixan. After this there seems to have been no want of water, and the country was generally favourable, but with occasional steep and rocky passes. The country for 15 or 20 miles to the south of Dixan and Halai seems to be subject at the dry season of the year to want of water. Salt's statement has just been quoted. Riippell in his journey from Adowa to Massowah in June, after passing Granduftofta, about 20 miles from Halai, going north, de scribed the country as an undulating sandstone plain, having very little water, and in his journey from Halai to Addigraht, in May, when at about the same distance from the former, he describes the country as a barren plateau with a few acacias. On this line, however, there appears to be always water near Dogonta at the head waters of the Haddas. Ferret and Galinier, on the other hand, when passing over this tract m November, do not complain of want of water (see page 53), and Combes and Tamisier, in April, describe their first camping ground out of Halai at Marda, as watered by a delicious brook. It must be borne in mind that there are a great many more roads or paths through these countries than those followed by travellers. The best of the roads, as Mansfield Parkyns says, are merely tracks, and it is probable that, wherever there are villages, communications exist between them. Travellers seem never to have found any difficulty in deviating from then- course when political or other reasons compelled them to do so. From Addigraht there is a road by Sanafe to Dogonta, which was travelled by Krapf (see extracts page 168), and also by Riippell (see extracts page 18), and which appears a favourable one. From Dogonta there is a pass to the low country, which was followed by Krapf (see extracts page 170), and which he states to be much more favourable than the Taranta pass— this pass communicates with Ansley Bay by the route recom mended by Dr. Beke in a very interesting letter to the Athe- 34 ROUTES FROM MASSOWAH AND neeum, August 14, 1867, which is reprinted at page 183. There is also a road from near Sanafo to Ansley Bay.* ROUTES FROM MASSOWAH AND ANSLEY BAY TO THE HIGHLANDS. There seems to be no doubt that the ascent to the Highlands may be most easily effected by Kaya Khor on the west, or by Dogonta and Sanafo on the east ; the passes to those places being much more accessible than those leading to Dixan and Halai. As regards the nature of the different routes from Massowah and Ansley Bay to the Highlands, and the amount of water to be procured whilst traversing the low plains, the following will give some idea :— Col. Merewether says of the route to Ailet, which he traversed in January, 1867 (see extracts, page 82), that the first part is a mere cattle track, traversing dry beds of water-courses, low hills, and bits of level plain ; that it is prac ticable for artillery everywhere except in three places, which eould easily be made so. The highest point crossed was 989 feet above the sea. Seventeen miles from Massowah there is a Spring of good water always funning, but any quantity of water may be obtained by digging a few feet in the sandy beds of the watercourses. Ailet is a fine plain, covered at that time of year with rich verdure, owing to showers falling once in the twenty-four hours.. Any quantity of water may be obtained by sinking wells. The distance from Massowah to Ailet is twenty-seven miles. Of the route to Kaya Khor, M. Miinzinger, travelling in the end of January (see page 75), says, that the first twenty-three miles are over open low country, where plenty of water is to be obtained, either in wells or by digging. For the next thirty miles the torrent Alligaddi is followed, where running water is found at intervals ; the road is described as good. The last thirteen miles are up the mountains, but the road is not very steep, and presents no obstacles to camels ; half-way up run ning water can be obtained at half-an-hour's distance from the road. Dr . Beke describes the descent from Kaya Khor to Mas sowah as a " gradual and easy road, well watered, aud occupying two days and a half very easy travelling. This is so much superior to the steep way up the Taranta, that it is very gene rally chosen by Europeans." Of a road near to the last one leading to the Agamutta Plateau, Col. Merewether, who explored it in April, 1867 (see * It appears that Ansley Bay haB been selected as the landing place for the expedition, and that the routes by Sanafi5 and Tohonda will probably be chosen, ANSLEY BAY TO THE HIGHLANDS. 35 p. 79), says, the road traverses plains and low hills for about fourteen miles to Part, where plenty of excellent water was found by scratching about two feet in the sandy bed of a torrent, and in the summer months it is found a little deeper; the vegetation very rich, and cattle abundant; heat by no means excessive. For the next ten miles to Hendrode the road lay along the bed of a torrent, practicable for camels and even artillery; running water found continually; dense wood and high grass. _ Then commenced a steep ascent, unsuited to draught artillery, easy enough for mules carrying mountain guns, but difficult for laden camels unless having light burdens. The Agamutta Plateau was about nine miles from the last point, and about thirty-three miles from MassoWah ; it is culti vated, and water can always be obtained by sinking wells ; " a finer or richer country than this could not be desired." The road to the foot of the Taranta and Shumfaito passes has been constantly travelled, being the main caravan line from Massowah to Gondar. From Massowah to Arkiko, a distance of about four miles, the journey is generally made by sea. Here there is a detachment of Egyptian troops. Water is obtained from wells. For about eleven miles after leaving Arkiko the road traverses a low, sandy, sterile plain, with a few stunted mimosas* It then enters the lower spurs of the highlands through the Shilliki pass, and after about nine or ten miles it strikes the River Alligaddi either at Hidale or Woha ; distance from Arkiko about twenty-two milesi This portion of the route is for the most part very rugged* and is destitute of water except in the rainy season, but by tui-hing off to the east, wells will always be found at Woha or Sahto* The River Alligaddi is often dry, but water can always be procured in certain parts of its bed by digging, From Hidale the road soon strikes the Haddas stream and follows up its bed to the foot of the passes of the Taranta mountams at Asubo, a distance of about twenty miles ; distance from Arkiko about 42 miles. Along this part of the route good water is always procurable at intervals, either by digging in the bed of the stream or fi-om springs, of which there are several, especially at Hamhamo, Tubbo, and Asubo. The road south of Hamhamo is enclosed between high mountams, and is very rocky and rugged, in fact it is little more than the bed of a torrent, which is dry during the dry season, but liable to sudden floods in the wet season. Bruce, when camping at Hamhamo in November, 1769, says, " The river scarcely ran at our passing it, when all of a sudden we heard a noise on the mountains above, louder than the loudest thunder. Our guides, upon this, flew to the baggage* and removed it to the top of the green hill, which was no sooner done, than we saw the river coming down in a stream about the height of a man, and breadth of the whole bed it used to occupy;" Near Asubo the ascent of the Taranta mountains com mences. The passes through these mountains are usually generalized under the name of the Taranta Pass, but there 36 ROUTES FROM MASSOWAH AND appear in reality to be three principal ones ; the Sulah Pass, which turns off to the right at Asubo, and leads to Dixan ; the Asubo Pass, which leads fi-om near the same place to Halai; and the Shumfaito Pass, which turns off from the valley a mile or two higher up, and also leads to Halai. These passes are of a veiy formidable description. Bruce says of the Sulah, " At half-past two o'clock in the afternoon we began to ascend the mountain through a most rocky uneven road, if it can deserve the name, not only from its incredible steepness, but from the large holes and gullies made by the torrents, and the huge monstrous fragments of rocks which, loosened by the water, had been tumbled down into our way. It was with great difficulty we could creep up, each man carry ing his knapsack and arms, but it seemed beyond the possibility of human strength to carry our baggage and instruments." Ferret and Galenus say of the same pass, " It took us three hours to climb the Taranta, a frightful path, encumbered some times with stones which rolled under our feet, sometimes with enormous rocks, which it was necessary to climb by holding on strongly with feet and hands, led us to the summit." Combes and Tamisier say of the passes to Halai, " Two paths lead from the foot of the Taranta to Halai. One less difficult but broader, has been laid out for beasts of burden ; the other, more difficult but shorter, has only been followed by foot travellers. We chose the latter (the Shumfaito one) The sun was burning, the mountain almost perpendicular, and we climbed with difficulty ...... The road was always very steep, strewed with rocks, and often we could only advance by the help of great ladders, which trembled under our feet." Other travellers, such as Riippell and Salt, seem to think that the difficulties of these passes have been somewhat exaggerated. The foot of the Sulah pass is about 4,670 feet, and its summit 8,350 feet above the sea. Instead of turning to the right up the passes of the Taranta mountains, the valley of the Haddas may be followed up to its head near Dogonta,* where the summit of the Highlands is reached. This pass was followed by Krapf hi May, 1842 (see page -170), and appears to be of a much more favourable nature than the other. Krapf says of it, " We had a very good and plain road through a woody wilderness. It is much superior to the road of Halai, which leads over the difficult mount of Shum faito. On the Tekunda road you descend by degrees, and the road might be trodden even by camels, if it could be improved a little by removing some rocks in the way." Near Tekunda there is a spring from which the Haddas stream rises. . The Haddas stream, after flowing down the valley past the foot of the Taranta passes, turns off, two or three miles to the south of Hidale, to the east, and falls into Ansley Bay, near Zulla and the ancient Adulis. This is the route advocated by * Called sometimes Tekunda or Tohonda. ANSLEY BAY TO THE HIGHLANDS. 37 Doctor Beke (see page 183) as the best means of approach to the Highlands. Starting from Ansley Bay, it follows the direction of the Haddas to Woha, whence the main road from Massowah can be reached either at Hidale or Hamhamo. The distance of the latter place from Ansley Bay is about twenty-two miles, whilst its distance to Arkiko is about thirty miles, shewing a clear gain of eight miles, or of fourteen miles, if reckoned from Massowah. The road as far as Woha, appears to traverse a tolerably level country, and water can be obtained, according to Dr. Beke, at Zulla, and all along the bed of the stream, by digging. He says, on this head, that when he was at Zulla, in February, 1866, they came to wells about a mile nearer the sea, where numerous horned cattle were being watered; they were small, well shaped, fat beasts, giving a delicious rich milk, the pasture at that time of the year being plentiful almost down to the sea side. This road is identified by Dr. Beke with the one mentioned in Arrian's Periplus of the Red Sea, and which is thus alluded to in Vincent's Periplus of the JErythrcean Sea : " At twenty stadia (two miles)* from the shore, and opposite to Orine, lay Aduli, which was a village of no great extent ; and three days' journey inland was Koloe (Halai), the first market where ivory could be procured. Two days' journey from Koloe lay Axum, where all the ivory was collected which was brought from the other side of the Nile, through the province called Kuenion, and thence by Axuma to Aduli." A few miles to the south of Dogonta is Sanafe, formerly a trading town of the Greek merchants, and to which there is a road from Zulla. Dr. Beke states that there is also a road fi-om Bure, in the south-west corner of Ansley Bay, to Sanafe, which was used in ancient times by the Greeks. He says that this road is as good, if not better,- than that from Zulla to Dogonta, the ascent being much more gradual, whilst Sanafej being 8,400 feet above the sea, has a very temperate climate, and would be well fitted for a dep6t. Sanafe would appear also to be in communication with Amphilla Bay, and with the great salt plain which supplies Abyssinia with its present currency, pieces of rock salt, and a military force stationed there would, therefore, have the com mand of that valuable and essential commodity. Extracts have been given • at page 129, from Coffin's journey from Amphilla to Chelicut. He approached the highlands by the pass of Sanafe, but his route is placed in Salt's map as passing forty eor fifty miles to the south of the present recognized position of Sanafe, and near a mountainf of the same name. * Dr. Beke states that the ruins of Adulis are now four miles from the sea, the coast of the Red Sea having risen. t It appears impossible to reconcile the mention made of Sanafe by travellers otherwise than by supposing mat the town and pass of that name are distinct places, as shewn on the map at the end. 38 EXTRACTS FROM THE WORKS OF TRAVELLERS. He describes, however, the passage of the salt plain, alluded to by Dr. Beke, fi-om which the Abyssinians obtain their cur rency. According to Riippell, there are roads to Amphilla Bay from Barakit, Omfeito, and Ategerat. EXTRACTS FROM THE WORKS OF TRAVELLERS. The following extracts are taken from the works of various travellers, and have been selected as giving information on the different routes in Abyssinia. The routes which have been referred to are as follows : — 1. " Bruee's Travels to discover the Source of the Nile, 1768 to 1773." Bruce was a Scotch gentleman, who made a journey to Abyssinia to discover the sources of the Nile. 2. " Salt's Voyage to Abyssinia," 1809-10. Mr. Salt was Secretary to Lord Valentia, nephew to the Governor- General of India, and was sent by him on a mission to the Emperor of Abyssinia. 3. " Ferret et Galinier. Voyage en Abyssinie," 1839 to 1843. These gentlemen were Captains in the French Etat-Major, and were sent by then- Government to make explorations in Abys^ sihia. _ They published some very good maps of the country. . 4. "Voyage en Abyssine, execute pendant les annees, 1839, 1840, 1841, 1842, 1843, par une commission scientifique com posed de MM. Theophile Lefebvre, Lieutenant de Vaesseau, &c, A. Petit et Quartin-Dillon, Docteurs medecins, &c. Vignaud Dessinateur." This commission, of which Lefebvre was the head, was sent out by the French Government. The work is accompanied by beautiful illustrations of the scenery, natural history, &c. 5. " Highlands of Ethiopia," by Major Harris, 1841-2. He was sent by the Indian Government on an Embassy to the Governor, or de facto, King of Shoa. 6. " Royaume de Shoa :" D'Hericourt, 1842. M. D'Hericourt was a French traveller, who made two journeys into Shoa, the second one of which was under the auspices of the Royal Academy of Sciences at Paris. 7. " Isenburg and Krapf. Journey to Shoa from Tajurra in 1839." Published in the " Journal of the Royal Geographical Society." They were German Missionaries. 8. " Isenburg and Krapf 's Mission," 1839 to 1842. 9. " Voyage en Abyssinie par Combes et Tamisier," 1835 to 1837. 10. " Reise in Abyssinien :" Riippell. 11. " Life in Abyssinia :" by Mansfield Parkyns, 1843. 12. " Hamilton's Sinai, the Hedjaz and Soudan," 1854. 13. Colonel Merewether's description of the Routes from Saha. ^POCRA i -hr 5 upenn linden ONfeh SIR HENRY JAI STir ^W/'iiowiJ '<¦ f Arrkobar , %# oAlyioAmba / OUTLINE TRACING from MAP of A B YS S I N I KEITH JOHNSTON ii' j^A\lOA#» ' *^ ..ii»,lViiliKi« iii„- jk The letters refer to the, routes in, the tai>7e,. .so English Wiles. B9 16=ldcgTee 5o , - 1 r : E. F. R.S . 8c D 1 R E CTOR EXTRACTS FROM THE WORKS OF TRAVELLERS. 39 Massowah to the Table Land, 1867. Given in the Blue Book on Abyssinia. 14. M. Miinzinger's description of the Routes from Mas sowah to the Table Land, 1867. Given in the Blue Book on Abyssinia. 15. " Reise nach Abyssinien, &c. :" von M. Ch. von Heuglin, 1861 and 1862. / 16. _" Travels of the Jesuits in Ethiopia in the 16th and 17th Centuries. 17. " Purchas's Pilgrimes." 18. " Rudolph's History of Ethiopia," 1864. 19. Dr. Beke's Works on Abyssinia. In order to facilitate reference to the various extracts which have been made, a table is added, which shows the different parts of the country to which they relate. The letters refer to those on the accompanying sketch map. Route. Traveller. • i Date. Page. Massowah to Ailet (A). Ferret an'd Galinier . Mansfield Tarkyn Merewether August, 1842 . Summer, 1843 . January, 1867 . 626282 Massowah to Kays* Khor (B). (Kiaquor). MunzingerMerewether (H.) Beke Lefehvre's Routes, 1 . January, 1867 . January, 1867 . 75 83 2 208 3!assowah to Aeametta Plateau (C). Merewether April, 1867 79 Massowah to Dixan (D) and Halai. Ferret and Galinier . Bruce Salt ... Combes and Tamisier. Lefehvre's Routes, 2 . November, 1840. November, 1769. March, 1810 April, 1835 47 221 42 189208 Massowah to Dogonta (Tekunda) (E). Ansley Bay Routes from Massowah to Taranta Passes (F). Krapf Beke April, 1842 170183 Beke 183 36 Ailet to Adowa, by Addi Bahro (G). Ferret and Galinier . August, 1842 . 58 . 40 EXTRACTS FROM THE WORKS OF TRAVELLERS. Route. Traveller. Date. Page. Ailet and Kaya Khor to Adowa (H). Mansfield Parkyns Merewether Lefehvre's Routes, 1, 8 Summer, 1843 . January, 1867 . 6583 208 Dixan or Halai to Adowa (I). Ferret and Galinier . Bruce Combes and Tamisier. Lefebvre . Lefehvre's Routes, 2 . October, 1840 . November, 1769. April, 1835 June, 1839 52 225 189 200208 Adowa to Gondar, by Lamalmon Pass (J). Ferret and Galinier . BruceMansfield Parkyns* . Lefehvre's Routes, 15, 19 May, 1842. November, 1769. July, 1845. 56 233 73 208 Adowa to Devra Tabor, by Selki Pass (K). Combes and Tamisier. General description . June, 1835 191 4 Adowa to Antalo (L). BekeLefehvre's Routes, 22 April, 1842 179 208 Dixan to Antalo (M). Salt March, 1810 43 Halai to Adegrat (N). Riippell . KrapfLefehvre's Routes, 3 . May, 1832. April, 1842 181 168 208 Adegrat to Antalo (0). 1. Krapf. 2. Riippellf . 3. Ferret and Gali- nierj . Lefebvre . Lefehvre's Routes, 3, 4, 17 . April, 1842 June, 1832 November, 1841. October, 1840 . 165182 204208 Amphilla Bay to Atshie or Atebidera (P)- Coffin Don Alonzo Mendez . Lefebvre . MerewetherLefehvre's Routes, 9 . January, 1810 . May, 1825. June, 1841 1867. . . . 129 194198 9 208 * As far as the Taccazy only. f To Tackeraggiro or Takirakira only. j At far at Atsbi or Atebidera only. EXTRACTS FROM THE WORKS OF TRAVELLERS. 41 Route. Traveller. Date. Page. Antalo to Debra Tabor (Q). Beke March, 1852 172 Antalo to Lake Haik and Magdala (R). 1. Krapf. 2. Pearce* Lefehvret Lefehvre's Routes, 15, 18, 22 . March, 1842 September, 1807. 137 45 208 Gondar to Magdala (S). Steudner and Heuglin February, 1862 . 245 Gondar to Angolala and . Baso (T). Lefebvre , Combes and Tamisier. Lefehvre's Routes, 20, 21 May, 1843. Dec. and Jany. . 208 Debra Tabor to Angolala (TJ). Combes and Tamisier. October Magdala to Krapf 1842 Angolala (V). Antalo to Angolala (W). Lefebvre . Lefehvre's Routes, 22 January, 1843 . 208 Tajurrah to Ankohar (X). HarrisIsenburg and Krapf . D'Hericourt June, 1841 April, 1839 September, 1842. ¦83 120118 Tajurrah Aussa and Shoa (T) . General description . Lefebvre . Lefehvre's Routes, 27, 28, 29 . 8 208 Gondar to Metemmah (Z). 1. Bruce . 2. Krapf. December, 1771 . May, 1855. 134 11 Suakim to Kasala (AA). Hamilton. March, 1854 . 130 * Pearce did not visit Magdala, but.returned by Socota to Antalo. t Lefebvre did not visit Magdala, but continued south to Angolala. MR. SALT'S JOURNEY FROM MASSSOWAH TO CHELICUT NEAR ANTALO IN MARCH, 1810 (marked D, M, on map page 39), AND MR. PEARCE'S FROM ANTALO TO LAKE ASHANGI AND BACK, IN SEPTEMBER, 1807 (marked R 2 on map page 39). The plain we had to cross, extended in a gradual ascent from Arkeeko to the first ridge of mountains, and was occasionally covered with a species of mimosa, called Gira. We saw great numbers of camels, sheep, asses, and goats in the course of the day, and passed two villages, Dukona and Dabi, round which were several enclosures of kush-kush or juwarry ; at sunset reached a station on a rising ground at the bottom of the first line of hills, called Shillokee, and encamped. On the 26th February travelled over a rugged ridge of low hills (granite over a bed of micaceous earth) to Weah, course, S. by W. 8'^ found pits of rain water. 27th. Left Weah, went S.W., through a forest of gira, trees, to wards a break in the mountains, leaving a high hill on the left ; in two hours we began to enter among the mountains, where the road became intersected with deep gullies formed by the rains, and soon came to a small pass, appearing as if cut through a rock of iron stone, beyond which commences the Samhar country. In half an hour entered a ravine between two ranges of mountains, rising almost perpendicularly on both sides, up which is a circuitous road to Taranta; a little further, passed two encampments of Hazorta, who came with cattle from the upper country, bought three cows for fifteen dollars ; and in half an hour halted at Hainhammo, a small circular spot in a nook of the mountains, distant a few hundred yards only from the stream ; course, about nine miles, S.W. 28th. Left Hamhammo. The pass seldom exceeding one hundred yards in width, the ground forming an irregular ascent, causing the stream occasionally to he lost under ground ; hut it seldom ran any distance without again making its appearance ; in two hours we halted at Sadoon, a small verdant spot, under the shelter of some bushy trees, an abundance of partridges and other game. At 1 p.m., set out, and shortly reached Tubbo; here the cliffs, and rugged precipices were covered with vegetation. At 3 p.m., arrived at Leila, and camped. March 1. Left Leila at 5.45 a.m., and soon reached Assuha; a little beyond on the left, a pass or gully in the mountain, opens into the road, considered the most dangerous "spot ; a wild set of Bedowee residing there, who plunder the cafilas travelling to and from Massowa. In 1809 they plundered a party of native soldiers of two thousand goats, a serious loss to people depending on them for support. We halted a little beyond this point, on a steep jutting rook, commanding the ravine and road. When our party had passed we proceeded in its rear to Taranta, and camped. The station is furnished with water from a bason formed in a rook, a short distance up the northernmost ravine ; in the rainy season a tremendous torrent occasionally rushes. Rocks, reddish granite. A spring which rises about a mile higher, affords a supply of water throughout the year. Passage of the Mowntaim. — About half-way up, the road divides into two tracks, one leading to Dixan, the other to Halai. March 3rd. Marched at 5.50 A.m., ascending the mountain of Taranta. For about a mile the ascent is gradual, and much encumbered with loose stones and fragments of rock. Passing this in a W. by S. direc- MR. SALT'S JOURNEY 415 tion, we arrive at a steep and rugged part of the mountain, thickly covered with kolqual. This continued for two miles, when we reached a very precipitous ascent, and shortly reached Mijdevella, where there is a spring. From here the road runs S.W., in some parts extremely Steep, compelling most of the party to dismount. To walk, or rather to climb, required no trifling effort for people so long unaccustomed to exertions of this nature. We soon reached a point where a road branches off to the left, leading to Halai. A little beyond is a high rock, called Gorezo. The abyss below is frightful to behold. Above this part of the mountain the vegetation changes its character, and clumps of trees are found called Wara, of a moderate height, with leaves like a willow, and branches covered with lichens. Further on, the road appeared to have been cut through a bed of chalk-stone, and where this prevailed, an extensive grove of a hardy kind of cedars called Tud grew. From this point we had a considerable descent to make before we again mounted, when in half-an-hour we reached one of the summits of the mountain, near a station bordering on a small pool of water called Turabo. Two hours and a-half had been occupied in the ascent. Thermometer 61?. On descending the southern side of Taranta, the steepness of the path rendered riding unsafe. An hour's walk carried us down to the worst part of the road. We remounted, and went through a wild rocky district, along a winding pathway towards Dixan. The change of cli mate became very apparent. -The heat became intense and scorching, vegetation parched, brooks dry, and the cattle had been driven across the mountain in search of pasture. At one we arrived at Dixan, seven hours ten minutes after leaving our camp this morning. The country round Dixan at this time of the year wore a scorched and desolate aspect. The only cattle were milch goats and kids. Large herds are brought in every evening to protect them from hyenas and wild beasts. March hth. Left Dixan at 6 a.m., proceeded westward, and in an hour reached a lofty hill on which is the village of Hadehadid. From hence we proceeded south across the plain of Zarai, which at this time looked very bare of verdure, the stream passing through it being com pletely dried up. The whole country had the appearanpe of being scorched, and we did not meet with water until we had passed the high 'rock of Addicota. At no great distance beyond, we came to a large daro, standing in the bed of a torrent, where we found some pits of water. Here we rested, and in the afternoon went on to Amhakauko, two miles distant on our right. March 6th. Our course lay to the south, and after passing Ascoriah, we descended a steep declivity that brought us into the eastern end of the fine plain of Serawg, which is thickly interspersed with tombo- trees, and seems to extend westward, on a low flat, to Hamazen. This plain may be considered as part of the western boundary of the moun tains of Taranta, the country through which we had hitherto descended, constituting only the lower ridge of that extensive range. Soon after wards we arrived at Abha. March 7th. At 5 a.m., after proceeding south one mile, the hill of Cashaat bore east ; we turned a little to the west, and travelled eight miles through a wild forest, until we reached an agreeable station by the side of a river called Seremai, which flows through the bottom of a small valley, surrounded by steep and rugged hills : in a nook of which, about a mile to the eastward, lay a large town called Logo, whence the surrounding district takes its name ; rested for a time, and then proceeded S.S.W., through a wild, uncultivated country, crossed a 44 FROM MASSOWAH TO CHELICUT. stream called Mai Belessan, left the high hill of Amba Anvas on our right, and after mounting a steep ascent, reached the village of Legot6, which, in appearance, somewhat resembled Dixan, eight miles from our last station. March 8th. Descended from Legote, crossed an extensive and well- cultivated plain, to the left of which, as we proceeded southward, lay the mountain of Devra Damo, which formerly served as a place of con finement for the younger branches of the king's family. This mountain is completely scarped on every side, and very difficult of access, having only one path leading up to it, and resembles the hill forts in India. After travelling a few miles, came to a pass in the mountains, called Kella, taking its name from the castellated appearance of the rocks in its neighbourhood ; about a mile further we came to a beautiful glen, where a large daro tree stood by the side of a winding stream, with banks richly covered with verdure. Here we stopped, and, I think, must have reached a high altitude, for though journeying south, and the sun proceeding to the north, we found every day the climate more temperate, and vegetation more backward. At 3 p.m. proceeded, and after a considerable descent, came to the river Angueah, which runs through a bed of granite in a north-west direction till it joins the Maley. Beyond this, we had several steep and rugged precipices to mount to the house of Ayto Nobilis, where we remained. March 9th. Started at 3 p.m., and proceeded across a fertile valley towards a range of hills to the south, leaving the mountams of Adowa about twelve miles on our right, then traversed a steep pass leading to a fertile valley, and afterwards to a lofty hill, on which stood the mansion of Ozoro. After remaining the night, proceeded south down a highly cultivated valley, through which a stream runs named Mai Feras. The land is highly productive ; the first crop of peas, had not been gathered in, though the second crop of wheat and barley was making a rapid progress to an abundant harvest. This productiveness is owing to the skill in irrigating the land by digging small channels from the higher part of the stream, and conducting the water across the plain in square compartments. We proceeded to a village on the top of a lofty hill, and halted for the night. March 10th. Started at daylight. Travelled three hours through a rugged and mountainous district, where the path was often so steep as to compel us to dismount from our mules. This path brought us to an open country, exhibiting an extensive plain stretching to the hills of Agame and Haramat (20m on our left) in a westerly direction to the River Tacazze, through the rich districts of Gulhbudda and Temben. This plain divides the mountainous district of Tigre from the no less elevated districts of Giralta and Enderta. The soil of the former being in general sandy, the rocks rising in perpendicular strata of slate over schistus and -granite — in the two latter the strata are more horizontal ; the surface of the valleys consists of a rich black loam, well calculated for the cultivation of barley. After crossing the plain, we came to a steep pass, leading to the same country as the one of Atbara, this brought us into the district of Giralta. Halted. Monday 11th. Left Mugga at break of day. The vale through which the first part of the road conducted us, wore a beautiful aspect, and was interspersed with groves of trees. In two- hours we arrived at a point where another road turns off, towards the pass of Atbara. The route we had taken by Mugga saves this very difficult ascent. At noon -MR. PEARCE'S JOURNEY FROM ANTALO. 45 we rested at the village of Adcrnza, and after partaking rcfreslimont proceeded. At four we arrived afc a very stcL>p declivity, down which our mules were led with considerable difficulty ; this brought us into a deep ravine which extends in a direct line to the valley of Gihha. A broad stream runs through the middle of the ravine, with groves of flowering shrubs and trees on each side, scarcely admitting- a passage. This country abounds with game, and is frequented, as it is said, by lions and other wild beasts, who resort at night to the river for water. When we emerged from this ravine, we shortly arrived at Gibba, ' situated in a small secluded valley, surrounded by woody hills, almost encircled by a stream, abundantly supplied with fish and wild fowl. Here are the Galla oxen, celebrated for the remarkable size of their horns. The country from Gibba is very hilly, and the road for a con siderable distance lay along the edge of a steep precipice. The descent led to the rich and fertile country of Gambela, and on the left stood the hill and town of Moculla. At ten o'clock we gained the summit of a hill overhanging the vale of Chelicut. Descended into the valley and reached the town of Chelicut. MR. PEARCE'S JOURNEI FROM ANTALO (marked R 2 on Map, page 39). September 28th., 1807. Having crossed the narrow and mountainous district of Wojjerat, Mr. Pearce arrived in eight hours at an extensive and uncultivated plain, inhabited by tribes of negroes called Doha, which are interspersed through all the regions of Africa. September 29th. After seven hours' travelling, he reached a district called Jyah, held by a tribe of Galla ; the country they inhabit is one continued forest, abounding with deer and guinea fowl. September 30th. He left Jyah and proceeded to Mocun-a. This .own is situated about a mile from a fresh- water lake, named Ashangee, said to be nearly as large as Lake Tzana, in Demhea. To the south of this lake extends the mountainous district of Lasta. October 1st. Mr. Pearce left Mocurra, traversed the eastern side of the lake, and passed through the district of Wofila. The same night, after leaving a small lake called Guala Ashangee on his left, he reached Dufat, a village situated on one of the high mountams of Lasta. Here the cold was intense, and an hoar frost lay upon the ground. October 2nd. Continued the journey to Senare. October 3rd. After seven hours' march, Mr. Pearce slept under a tree at the top of a high mountain ; the weather extremely cold ; and on the following day October 4 low lands near the .coast to graze. During 'the tropical rains 'from June till September •they.Temaini on the high lands' to cultivate. On the right and left of the Aly Gaily torrent are 'fine plateaus, '4,000 to 5,000 feet above fhe level of the sea, 'large plains, -•well cultivated, water plentiful, The , one named Agamatta is > only ¦about ¦ eighteen miles from Massowah, and would make an excellent en camping place. From- Aydereso upwards the ground belongs - to fche tribe Aaigana, haV&a'g five villages, One of which is Kiaguor. The Angana are subject to a larger tribe, the Aggala Goora, having seventeen villages. The chief of1 these -two tribes is the son of lAnda Mikael, who does homage to Waksheim Gobazye, f the 3 rebel leader of Lasta and Tigre. COLON.EL MEREWETHER'S REPORT, ETC. 79 On, the right of Kiaguor are the tribes Laber and; Wagerthee, having *igh;t,and four villages respectively. They are subject to Dejaj Hailoo, $&49>ajl the land beyond the Jlareb, The heights are given from observation of the boiling point. (Signed) W. Mtjnzingee, Acting Qonsul COLONEL MEREWETHER' S REPORT ON THE AGAMETTA PLATEAU. (Marked C on Map, page 39.) My Lord, : Massowah, April 6, 1867. I have the honour to report that I left this on, the, morning of the 1st instant at half-past seven o'clock for the Agametta plateau. The route followed passed Moncpolop, and by the Eylat road for one and %half mile frpm that place, then turned off abruptly to the left in a south-westerly direction through low lulls for. five and a^half miles, when it rqundpd the point: of a small range, and went due south by the bed of a. mountain torrent named Khpolpo, to Part, three miles, where excellent water was found in plenty by scratching about two feet in the sandy bed. From the moment of entering this torrent the .country commenced to. slipw thp luxuriant vpgetatipn which was found everywhere after wards until again nearing the coast. The valleys and hill-sides were covered .wifih.riph grass, wild flowers, and in some plapes of mpst dense wood, consisting chiefly of Babul (Acacia Arabia) bush, other thorny busies, and wild fruit frees "witL whose names I am unacquainted, and to, which, the. native denprninations gave no clue, Large numbers of very gOjOd-lppking cattle were collected, at this watering-place belonging to thp TsanatigH tribe. Water is tp be, found here by digging at all times of the year. This was made the first halting-place. The inarch, took from 7-30 a.m. until 12-15. Though it was the month of April, and the sun powerful, the heat "was found by no means excessive. The journey was resumed at 7'15. the following morning, the 2nd instant. The road lay thp whole dis|anpe [in the bed of the ?] Ukbulpo torrent, and though quite practicable for camels, and even artillery, was difficult in some places, The,, obstructipns could either be removed or turned. Running water was found continually, The hills on either side increased in, height, and, as.wel} as the narrow valley, were dotted wjtb dense wfigd and high grass,. The general course was sputh-sputh- west, but aj3 the torrent ha,d to be. followed, the windings were. very greai, the ^taticp, marcjieil ten. miles, time taken four and a-half hours, jnpvjng slow. Thp camp was made at p, pppi of water called Hpnrote. ¦^he breadth pf the torrent was very narrow at that part, not above fifty ifjgeti,; Ijj. had: varied t;}ie, whole, way up, ppening out in some nartg to a m^er-ate-sized plain, in others narrowing, as, at, Hpnrote. Started at 6'B§ A.M%of the 3r4 instant,, and, after proceeding three- quarters ,pf a .mile, commenced a steep ascent, unsuited tp draught artil lery, easy, enough, .for mules, carrying mountain^gH.n^, hut difficult for laden camels, unless, having light burdeng.. Thosp-spitb the party sur- Tagoflntedjfo bu&s^mp of thpm3id/.npj(. reach the, next encamping ground tijirthe .following mprning. Jhe highest point the road took was 1,300 fee,fc&|ipye, H^emjpte, A bigfees peak tallest, ^ia^bak.w^s^ascended, which ^fbr4ed & capital bird's-eye, view^of thp sur^jmdbag country. This was ' g 2 80 COLONEL MEREWETHER'S ' REPORT 1,476 feet above Henrote, and 3,222 above the sea-level. To the north was seen the country traversed by the road to Bogos'; to the north-east and east that which had been passed over ; Massowa and the sea beyond, dotted with islands of the Dunbar group ; to the south-east and south the high mountain of Gudan, Annesley Bay, and the road to Kiaguor by the Agadey watercourse ; on the west the high mountains which bound Abyssinia Proper. Immediately before 'us to the west, and about five miles distant, were the patches of comparatively level ground styled the Agametta plateau, the point to be reached. Hills densely clothed with verdure were scattered about around in the most fantastic manner. Large boulders of rock, blackened by exposure, were lying on the hill sides as if some violent explosion had taken place. In a direct line Massowa appeared to be certainly not more than 20 miles bearing north 39Q east. Passing this peak the road descended abruptly several hundred feet, but then rose gradually again to the plateau of Agametta, which was found to be twenty feet below Fathak, or 3,202 feet above the sea. From Fathak the road wound a good deal to the plateau through the same rich country, with grass and wild flowers waist-high in most places, or dense bushes with grass underneath. On the plateau were patches of towaree (millet), cultivation belonging to the Tsanatigli tribe. The encamping ground was about two miles short of this culti vation, on the edge of a torrent, in which running water was met. Half-a-mile lower this trickled over bare sheet rock (granite) into a deep, densely-wooded ravine below. When, the torrent is flooded by heavy rains, there must be a beautiful cascade here, and judging by the appearance of the rocks, the discharge of water must sometimes be very considerable. The distance from Henrote to the camping-ground by the road is not more than five miles, but it took two hours and a-half to traverse. The best site for a permanent residence would be on the plateau itself, where the cultivation is, where it is open to the breeze, and where water could always be obtained by sinking wells. The banyan tree (ficus indica) was found here ; also the guava tree. The Babul had almost entirely disappeared, and the fir-trees which were seen were in poor condition. A finer or richer country than this could not be desired. The scene»y and general appearance very much resemble the "ghats," on the western coast of India, and the verdure is equal to what is seen in those favoured parts immediately after the monsoon. The reason of this is that the cool season is the rainy one in the portion of the country lying between the Abyssinian higlilands and the sea. There is a north-east monsoon ; in fact, from October to the end of March there is some rain every day, but never very heavy, nothing approaching the Indian south-west monsoon. The climate is very similar to that of Mattemma. An April sun during the day was warm, but the heat did not make being out in it unpleasant, and in the open plain or on the hills there was always a delicious cool breeze blowing from the sea. At night there was heavy dew consequent on the recent rains, and it was so cold that blankets were necessary sleeping inside a tent. Water is obtainable almost everywhere, and wells could easily be sunk. The ascent from Henrote to Fathak, with subsequent descent, is, as it at present exists, undoubtedly difficult, but the track followed went straight up the hill. A zigzag might be made at no very great cost, up which laden camels, and even carriages, might pass. The country is full of game in the cool months. Recent traces of elephants were seen, but the guides said these animals had passed onto higher grounds to escape from the flies, which are very numerous at this season of the ON THE AGAMETTA PLATEAU. 81 year. Tracks of lions, leopards, wild hog, and deer, were noticed daily : and of birds there were abundance of guinea fowl, spur fowl, and quail. The great want in the country is population. After leaving Part not a soul was seen. The cultivation at Agametta, though nearly ripe,' was unwatched. The land had been ploughed, and the, grain sown in October, and the crop left tp mature as it might. The splendid grazing-grounds were undisturbed by cattle. From inquiries made it appears that the whole of this extensive and fertile tract of country between the mountains and the sea, from the Agadey torrent to nearly twenty miles north, giving an area of some 400 square miles, belongs to one tribe, the Tsanatigli Christians, mustering not more than 800 adults. They also hold lands in Abyssinia, where they reside in the summer months, migrating with their cattle, of which they have large herds, to the lowlands nearer the sea, from October to the end of April. As they pass down they cultivate patches here and there, reaping the produce as they return. This dearth of population I conclude to be . owing to the absence of any one fixed good government as before men tioned. About Eylat the soil is considered to belong to Abyssinia. While the Egyptian Government holds the country, it is nominally supposed to protect the people. The latter have therefore to pay dues to bpth. In returning the same route was followed as far as Henrote and for half-a-mile beyond. Then the Ukbuloo torrent was left, a turn being taken to the right, and the road passed over a hill about 250 feet high, descending into another torrent, which four miles further on joined a larger one, and this was continued until the sea was reached at the village of Arkeeko. Three miles down the larger torrent running water was found, and was met with at intervals for the remainder of the way. The nature of the country was the same as on the upward journey, but this was a much more direct route to the sea,, though not to Massowah, shorter in consequence, and with the exception of the hill just below Henrote, which was bad for camels, a better road. Three marches were made going up, only one coming down ; the distance by the former twenty-nine miles, by the latter to Arkeeko twenty-two miles. From Ai'keeko we went by boat to Massowali, three-and-a-half miles ; had we marched by land seven miles, the distance would have been identical, twenty-nine miles. The camping ground near the plateau was left at 6.30 a.m., and Arkeeko reached at 3.25 p.m.,. deducting two hours thirty minutes halt for breakfast. The actual time in march ing was six hours thirty minutes. The last eight miles from Galata being a good road, was done more quickly than the first part. The whole was on mules, excepting down the hill from Fathak to Henrote, and down the hill beyond Henrote, which was walked. The heights were taken by readings from two aneroids, by the boil ing point of water. A tabular route is annexed; also a rough sketch by Captain Merriman. It should be mentioned that this is no regular road into Abyssinia. It is nothing more than a track by the Tsanatagli tribe in their annual migrations. I availed myself of the services of Captain C. J. Merriman, Royal Engineers, Executive Engineer, to observe the country, and. of Surgeon James, civil surgeon, Aden, to inspect the state of the work-people colony at Moncooloo, taking these officers with me on duty. I have, W. H. Merewetheb. 8fe LIEUT-COLONEL MEREWETHER'S REPORT ON THE ROADS FROM MASSOWAH TO ADOWA, BY AILET. (Marked A and H on Map, page 39.) Massowah, Ja/imary 15, 1867. MVLobd, While waiting for intelligence I employed the time in making ex cursions in the neighbourhood to see places and obtain information about the country. , The first spot visited was Ailat, twenty-seven miles nearly due west of Massowah. The road, a mere cattle track, is chiefly along the dry beds of water-courses, or over low hills, occasionally on bits of level plain ; with the exception of three places, where gorges have to be ascended or descended, there is no part of the road over which artillery would not drive with ease, and the three exceptions might very soon be made passable by sappers. The first is short, only 200 yards, but steep, having a direct rise of eighty feet in that distance ; it could be zigzagged. The second is much longer, being one mile and a half, but has only a rise of about 400 feet, and were it not for its narrowness, and being clogged with boulders, would be easy enough. There is plenty of earth and bushes on either side to afford material for a road which would stand well until heavy rain washed it away, and a heavy fall is not of frequent occurrence. The highest point crossed was found to be only 989 feet above the level of the sea ; there is a gradual rise the whole way. From this highest point, the road descends 200 feet on to the plain of Ailat. At seventeen miles from Massowah, thirteen from Moncooloo, there is a spring of good water always run ning,; but any quantity of water may be obtained by digging a few feet in the sandy beds of the watercourses. Ailat is a fine plain, at the foot of the mountains bordering Abys sinia, twelve miles long from north to south, by five broad, covered at this season of the year with rich verdure, owing to showers falling once in the twenty-four hours. It gets some also" of the summer rains, so that it is well off in this respect ; any quantity of water may be obtained by sinking wells. The whole plain might be cultivated to great advantage 'with cotton, wheat, maize, jowaree, &c, were there a good Government to arrange for the cultivators, but the place, is un fortunate in this respect ; it pays a small tribute to the Egyptian Government for the nominal protection afforded by ten soldiers, and the justice they are supposed to have administered to them by the Governor of Massowah, while they also pay a grazing fee to the Emperor Theodorus, because the ground is considered Abyssinian. The result is, the valley is poorly populated by people who live almost entirely by their cattle, citltiyating only a very little jowaree. The village, a scattered one, of about thirty grass and mat huts, is in the centre of the valley. The heat is said to be very great in summer. This would be an excellent place to locate a large body of cavalry on first landing, there being plenty of wood, water, forage, and meat ; grain would be scarce at first, but it would soon come in from the countries north and north-west. Besides the water to be obtained by digging, there is a perennial spring on the west side of the valley, two- and a half miles from the village. Here also are tlie celebrated hot springs used by the invalids of the country. MAJOR HARRIS'S JOURNEY, ETC. 83 There is a road direct from Ailat into Abyssinia, but not a good one. The best in this dfrection for laden camels passes about eight miles south of Ailat, from which it can be joined. It starts from the same place, MonPooloo, and through the same sort of country as the road to Ailat; b'ut is less difficult, both in the first part and after entering the mountains. Water is more plentiful on it, and is found at the following places, eight to ten miles apart, Zagu, Tamgous, Amba Tokan, Bamba, Ayderess, Kiaguor; Kiaguor is only sixty miles from Moncoo'loP, and once there, you are on the plateau of Hamozeyn, in Abyssinia. From Kiaguor to Gootofellassee (Koodoofelassy in the map) is only thirty miles of fair road. Gootofellassee is a very healthy place, dry, and not feverish ; it is where several roads converge, supplies- naturally come to, and could be easily reached from the coast, in nine marches, by an advanced force. From Gootofellassee to Adowa is under fifty miles ; the Mareb has to be crossed about midway, but there is no difficulty whatever in the dry, cold season, the depth of the water then being only a few inohes. From Adowa any road could be taken as required ; but though it is a larger place than Gootofellassee and the capital of Tigre, the latter is the best place for first rendezvous, being most healthy. I proceeded down Annesley Bay to the bottom, and, landing at different places, inquired quietly, through M. Munzinger, about the different roads from that neighbourhood. There are two, one to Halai, taken by Dr. Beke last year, and which is not a good one for laden camels, the other the old Greek caravan road, from Adoolis to Tenafee ; this last has not been much frequented of late years, and is overgrown with jungle, but it was much used when Adoolis was a Greek colony, and 1 cannot help thinking will, on further inquiry, prove as good as any, at any rate well worth examination hereafter should entrance into Abyssinia become necessary. The country on the western side of Annesley Bay is richly green now, in consequence of the constant rain, and the plains are covered with herds of cattle from all parts. Wild elephants were found close to the sea-shore at the bottom of the bay, feeding quietly in the plain. There is a party of 200 Egyptian troops here, protecting the Customs levied on the salt brought from an ex tensive salt plain, about twenty miles to the south. There are three other routes into Abyssinia, which formerly were regularly used by caravans, but lately have not been much so : one from Amphilla Bay, direct "to Adowa ; another from Ead to Sokota ; and the third from Tagoufra, by Lake Haik, to Begemeder. This last is the most direct to where the Emperor now is confined to ; but, from all I have been able to learn, there are great difficulties on the score of water,. none but very brackish being procurable. MAJOR HARRIS'S JOURNEY FROM TAJURREH TO ANKO- BAR IN JUNE, 1841. (Marked X on Map, page 39). From this eventful epoch each "sultry day did indeed bring a numerical accession to the beasts of burthen collectedin the town ; but they msce owned cf many and self-willed proprietors ; were, generally speakiag, of the |nost feeble deseripfaoii, melasaeholy 'contrasts to the gigaastiB and lierculean dromedary «£ Egypt and -Arajfoia,'; and no. trifling delay, warn- 84 MAJOR HARRIS'S JOURNEY still in store through their arrival from different pastures bare-backed, which involved the necessity of making up new furniture for the march. The Dankaii saddle is fortunately a simple contrivance ; a mat composed of platted date leaves thrown over the hump, supporting four sticks lashed together in couples, and kept clear of the spinal process by means of two rollers as pads, having been proved by centuries of experience to be not more light than efficient. Accoutrements completed, and camels ready for the march, other provoking excuses for delay were not want ing, to fill, even to overflowing, the measure of annoyance. At length however no further pretext could be devised, and nine loads being actu ally in motion towards Ambabo, the first halting ground on the road to the kingdom of Shoa, the schooner " Constance," getting under weigh, stood up the bay of Tajura, and cast anchor off the incipient camp, of which the position was denoted by a tall cluster of palms. The almost insurmountable difficulties thus experienced in obtaining carriage, but now happily overcome, had so far delayed the advance of the Embassy, as to oblige it to cross the Tehama during the height of the fiery and. unwholesome blast which, during the months of June and July, sweeps over that waterless tract from the south-west ; and had moreover rendered it impossible to reach Abyssinia before the setting in of the annual heavy rains, when the river Hawash becomes impass able for weeks together. Independently of the natural apathy of the camel-owning population, the fact of the season of all intercourse with the interior, by Kifilah, having already passed away, rendered every one averse, under any consideration of gain, to so hazardous a journey. Grain was to be carried for the consumption of horses and mules during the passage of arid regions, where, during the hot season, neither vege tation nor water exists ; and the wells and pools having notoriously failed in every part of the road, during three consecutive seasons of unusual drought, it was necessary to entertain a large proportion of transport for a supply of water sufficient to last both man and beast for two or three days at a time ; whilst, neither grass nor green food re maining near the sea-shore, the hundred and seventy camels now forming the caravan, had been individually assembled from various grazing grounds, many miles dist ant in the interior. A sufficient number of water skins had fortunately been purchased at exorbitant prices to complete the equipment, together with mules for the conveyance of the European escort and artillery ; and the greedy Sultan, besides receiving the lion's share of the profits on all, had sold his own riding beast for three times its worth in solid silver. But the forage brought over from Aden being long since consumed, the whole were fed upon dates, and to the latest moment the greatest difficulty continued to exist in regard to followers. The services of neither Dan- kali, Bedouin, nor Somauli, 'were obtainable at whatever wages ; and the whole of the long train of live stock was consequently to be attended by a few worthless horsekeepers, enlisted at Aden, aided by a very limited number of volunteers from the shipping, whose indifferent cha racters gave ample promise of their subsequent misdeeds. With a feeling of pleasure akin to that experienced by Gil Bias, when he escaped from the robbers' cave, the party at length bade adieu to Tajura. Of all the various classes and denominations of men who inhabit the terrestrial globe, the half-civilized savages peopling this sea port, are perhaps the most thoroughly odious and detestable. The tall masts of the schooner of war, raking above the belt of dwarf jungle that skirts the tortuous coast, served as a beacon to the new camp, the distance of which from the town of Tajftra was less than four FROM TAJURREH TO ANKOBAR. 85 miles. A narrow footpath wound along the burning sands, across nume rous water-courses from the impending mountain range of trachyte and porphyry, whose wooded base, thickly Clothed with mimosa and euphor bia OMtiquomm, harboured swine, pigmy antelope, and guinea-fowl in abundance. Many large trees, uprooted by the wintry torrent, had been swept far out to sea, where in derision of the waves that buffet their dilapidated, stag-horn looking arms, they will long ride safely at anchor. The pelican of the wilderness sailed through the tossing surf, and files of Bedouin damsels, in greasy leathern petticoats, bending beneath a load of fuel from the adjacent hamlets, traversed- the sultry strand ; whilst a long train of wretched children, with streaming elf-like locks, who had been kidnapped in the unexplored interior, wended their weary way with a slave caravan, towards the sea-port, whence they were to be sold into foreign bondage- * An avenue through the trees presently revealed the white tent, occu pying a sequestered nook on the course of a mountain stream near its junction with the shore. Here horses and mules were doing their utmost, by diligently cropping the scanty tufts of sunburnt grass, to repair their recent long abstinence from forage, whilst the abbreviated tails of those which had been improved by mutilation, formed the jest of a group of grin ning savages. Clumps of lofty fan palms, and date trees loaded with ripe orange-coloured fruit, still screened from view the village of AmMbo, the straggling Gothic roofed wigwams composing which havp the same waggon-like appearance as the huts of Tajura, — a similar style of architecture extending even to the unostentatious mosque, alone dis tinguishable from the surrounding edifices, by uncarved minarets of wood. Three hours after midnight, the galloper gun, fired within the limits of the British camp as a summons to the drowsy camel- drivers to be up and doing, was echoed, according to previous agreement, by the long stern chaser of the "Constance," — a signal to the "Euphrates," still anchored off Tajura, to thunder a farewell salute as the day dawned. The work of loading was merrily commenced — the tent went down — and camel after camel moved off towards Dullool ; when, on the departure of the last string, it was observed with dismay that the ground was still strewed with baggage, for which carriage had un questionably been paid and entertained, but for which none was forth coming. Izhak's absent camels being now brought in, the ground was speedily cleared of the remaining baggage ; and satisfied with the specious assurance of the Ras el Kafilah, that he would on no account tarry beyond nightfall of the following day, the party, relieved from then- anxiety, mounted after five o'clock, and galloped seven miles along the sea-beach to the camp at Dullool,— -the loose sand being so perforated and undermined in every part by the hermit crab, as to render the sieve-like road truly treacherous and unpleasant. The grassy nook occupied by the tent was situated at the abutment of a spur from the wooded Jebel Gpodah, evidently of volcanic origin, which gradually diminishes in height, until it terminates, one hundred yards from the shore, in a thick jungle of tamarisk and acacia, the former covered with salt crystals. Hornblende, in blocks, was scattered along the beach, and, wherever decomposed, it yielded fine glittering black sand, so heated under the noontide sun as to burn the naked foot. The movable camp of a horde of roving Bedouin shepherds, whb, with very slender habitations, possess no fixed abode, was erected near the wells ; and a quarrel with the followers, respecting the precious 86 MAJOR HARRIS'S JQURNEY element, having already led to the drawing of creeses, silver was again in requisition to allay the impending storm. The heat on the 2nd of June was almost insupportable ; but the - sultry day proved one of greater quiet than had fallen to the lot 6f the Embassy since its first landing. At gun-fire the next morning, the arrival of the whole party being reported, orders were issued, to strike the tent, The schooner had meanwhile fished her anchor, and Was now getting under weigh for the purpose , of standing up within range of the next halting ground. The mules were harnessed to the gun, and the tent and baggage packed, and after three hours of needless detention, the party commenced its third hot march along the sea-beach, whence the hills gradually recede. Bedouin goat-herds occupied many wells of fresh water, which were denoted by clumps of date trees entwined by flowering convolvuli, whose matted tendrils fix the movable sands of the shore ; and late in the forenoon the camp was formed at the pool of Sagallo, only three miles from the former ground, but affording the last- supply of water to be obtained, for thirty more. An extensive and beautiful prospect of the western portion of the Bay of Tajura had now opened, bound in on all sides by a zone of precipitous mountains, in which the gate leading into Goobut el Kharab was distinctly marked by a low black point, extending from the, northern shore. The schooner's services were volunteered to admit of a nearer inspection of the "basin of foulness ;" but no sooner had she stood out to sea than signal guns fired from the camp an nounced the arrival of another packet from Shoa. The courier had been forty-four days on the journey, and the tidings he brought re specting the road, although highly satisfactory, added yet another instance to the many, of the small reliance that can be placed on infor mation derived from the Danakil, who, even when disinterested, can rarely indeed be induced to utter a word of truth. The strong party feeling entertained towards Mohammad Ali by the magnates of Taiiira, now vented itself in divers evil-minded and malicious hints, insinuating the defection of the absentee, who had been unavoidably, detained by business, some hours after the last of the sea-port heroes had joined. "Where now is your friend AH Mohammad?" "Where is the man who was to supply water on the road ?" were the taunting interrogatories from the mouths of many ; but come the son of Ali Abi did, to the confusion of Ms slanderers, long ere the sun had set, bringing secret intelligence that he had sent to engage an escort from his own tribe ; and the whole party being- now at last assembled, it was resolved in full conclave, that as not a drop of water could be procured for three stages in advance, the entire of the next day should be devoted to filling up the skins, whiGh done, the- caravan should, resume its march by might^^-a manoeuvre that savoured strongly of a design to favour the clandestine return to Tajura of certain of the escort, who had still domestic affairs to settle. A most unprofitable discussion, which was prolonged until eleven the following night, had for its object to persuade the transmission of baggage in advance to the Salt Lake, in consequence of the carried supply of water being, after all, considered insufficient for three days' consumption. But the proposal was negatived upon prudent grounds, the honesty of the intentions by whioh it had been dictated, seeming at best,, extremely questionable, and no one feeling disposed to trast the faithless guides further than they Gould be seen, with property e>f value. FROM TAJURREH TO ANKOBAR. 87 Scarcely were the weary eyes of the party closed in steep* thaai- the- loasg 38-pownder of the "Constance," proclaiming the midnight hour,. sounded to boot and saddle. The Babel-like clamour of loading was at length succeeded by a lull of voices, and the rumbling of the galloper wheels over the loose shingle, was alone heard in the still calm of the night," above the almost noiseless tread of the cushion- footed camels, which formed an interminable line. The road, lit by* the full m'oon, shining brightly overhead, lay for the first two or three miles along the beach, and then, crossing numerous watercourses, struck over the southern shoulder of Jebel Goodah, the distance from whose lofty peak each march had reduced. Blocks and boulders varying in size from an 18 pound shot, to that of Ossa piled upon Pelion, aided = by deep chasms, gullies, and water ways, rendering the ascent one of equal toil and peril, Post the life of" a camel, which fell over a precipice and dislocated the spine ; where upon the conscientious proprietor, disdaining to take further heed of the load, abandoned it unscrupulously by the wayside. Galeylafeo, a singular and fearful chasm which was navigated in the first twilight, did not exceed sixty feet in width ; its gloomy, perpendicular walls of columnar lava, towering one hundred and fifty feet overhead, and cast ing a deep deceitful shadow over the broken channel, half a mile in extent. Dawn disclosed the' artillery mules in such wretched' plight from their fatiguing night's labour, that it was found necessary to unlimbei1- the gun, and place it with its carriage on the back of an Eesah camel of Herculean Strength, provided1 for the contingency by the foresight of Mohammad Ali ; and although little pleased during the imposition of its novel burthen, the animal, rising without difficulty, moved freely along at a stately gait. The same uninteresting volcanic appearance- characterised the entire country to the table-land, of Warelissan, a dis tance of twelve miles. Dreary and desolate, without a trace of vege tation saving a few leafless acaeias, there was no object to relieve the gaze over the whole forbidding expanse. In this barren unsightly spot the radiation was early felt from the masses of black eindry rock, which could not be touched with impunity. The sand soil of the desert reflecting the powerful beams of the sun, lent a fearful intensity to the heat, whilst on every side the dust rose in clouds that at one moment veiled the caravan from sight, and at the next left heads of" camels tossing in the inflamed atmosphere among the bright sppar- blades of the escort* But on gaming the highest point, a redeeming prospect was afforded in an unexpected and most extensive bird's eye " view of the estuary of Tajura, now visible in all its shining glory, from this, its western boundary. Stretching away for miles in placid beauty, its figure was that of a gigantic hour-glass ; and far below on its glassy bosom were displayed the white sails of the friendly little1 schooner, as, after safely navigating the dangerous and much- dreaded portals of Scylla and Charybdis, never previously braved by any Craft larger than a jolly boat — bellying to the breeze, she beat gallantly up- to the head of Goobut el Kharab. Although- Warelissan proved nearly seventeen hundred feet above the level of the blue water, a suffocating south-westerly wind, which Mew throughout the tedious day, rendered the heat more awfully oppressive than at any preceding station. The camp, unsheltered, occupied a naked tract of table-land, some six milefe in circumference, on fhe shoulder of Jebel Goodah— its barren surface strewed with shining lav% and bleached animal bones ; sickly acacias 'of most puny growth,. $8 MAJOR HARRIS'S JOURNEY sparingly invested with sun-burnt leaves, here and there struggling through the fissures, as if to prove the utter sterility of the soil ; whilst total absence of water, and towering whirlwinds of dust, sand, and pebbles, raised by the furnace-like puffs that came stealing over the desert landscape, completed the discomfiture both of man and beast. * During the dead of night, when restless unrefreshing slumbers on the heated ground had hushed the camp in all its quarters, the elders, in great consternation, brought a report that the Bedouin war-hawks, who nestle in the lap ©f the adjacent wild mountams, were collecting in the neighbourhood with the design of making a sudden swoop upon the kafilah, for which reason the European escort must be prepared for battle, and muskets be discharged forthwith, to intimidate the lurking foe. They were informed, in reply, that all slept upon then- arms, and were in readiness ; but Mohammad Ali came shortly afterwards to announce that matters had been amicably adjusted with the aid of a few ells of blue cloth ; and under the care of a double sentry, the party slept on without further disturbance until two in the morning, prior to which hour, the moon, now on her wane, had not attained sufficient altitude to render advance practicable. The aid of her pale beams was indispensable, in consequence of the existence of the yawning pass of Rah Eesah, not one hundred yards distant from the encampment just abandoned, but till uow unperceived. It derives its appellation, as "the road of the.Eesahs," from the fact of this being the path usually chosen by that hostile portion of the So- mauli nation, on the occasions of their frequent forays into the country of the Danakil, with whom, singularly enough, an outward under standing subsists. Its depths have proved the arena of many a san guinary contest, and are said, after each down-pouring of the heavens, to become totally impassable, until again cleared of the huge blocks of stone,, the detritus from the scarped cliffs, which so choke the bed of the chasm, as to impede all progress. The labour of removing these, secures certain immunities to the wild pioneers, who levy a toll upon every passing' caravan, and who in this instance were propitiated, on application, by the division of a bale of blue cotton calico, a manu facture here esteemed beyond all price. A deep zigzagged rent in the plateaux, produced originally by some grand convulsion of nature, and for ages the channel of escape to the sea of the gathered waters from Jebel Goodah, winds like a mythologi cal dragon through the bowels of the earth, upwards of three miles to the southward. Masses of basalt of a dark burnt brown colour, are piled perpendicularly on either side, like the solid walls of the impreg nable fortresses reared by the Cyclops of old ; and rising from a very narrow channel, strewed with blocks of stone, and huge fallen fragments of rock, tower overhead to the height of five or six hundred feet. One perilous path affords barely sufficient width tor a camel's tread, and with a descensus of one foot and a half in every three, leads twisting away into the gloomy depths below, dedicated to the son of Chaos and Darkness, and now plunged in total obscurity. ¦ It was a bright and cloudless night, and the scenery, as viewed by the uncertain moonlight, cast at intervals in the windings of the road upon the glittering spear-blades of the warriors, was wild and terrific. The frowning basaltic cliffs, not three hundred yards from summit to summit, flung an impenetrable gloom over the greater portion of the frightful chasm, until, as the moon rose higher in the clear vault of heaven, she shone full upon huge shadowy masses, and gradually revealed FROM TAJURREH TO ANKOBAR. 8$ the now dry bed, which in the rainy season must oftentimes become a brief but impetuous torrent. No sound was heard save the voice of the camel-driver, coaxing his- stumbling beasts to proceed by the most endearing expressions. In parts where the passage seemed completely choked, the stepping from stone to stone, accomplished with infinite difficulty, was followed by a drop leap, which must have shaken every bone. The gun was twice shifted to the back of a spare camel, provided for the purpose ; and how the- heavy laden, the fall of one of which would have obstructed the way to . those that followed, kept their feet, is indeed subject of profound aston ishment. All did come safely through, however, notwithstanding the appearance of sundry wild Bedouins, whose weapons and matted locks gleamed in the moonbeam, as their stealthy figures flitted in thin tracery from erag to crag. A dozen resolute spirits might have successfully opposed the united party; but these hornets of the mountains, offering no molestation, contented themselves with reconnoitring the van and rear-guards from heights inaccessible through their natural asperity, until the twilight warned them to retire to their dens and hiding places ; and ere the sun shone against the summits of the broken cliffs, the straggling caravan had emerged in safety from this dark descent to Eblis. Goobut el Kharab, with the singular sugar-loaf islet of Good Ali, shortly opened, to view for the last time, across black sheets of lava, hardened in" their course to the sea, and already rotten near the water's edge. The schooner, although riding safely at anchor near the western extremity, was altogether concealed by precipitous walls that towered above her raking masts, and kept the party in uncertainty of her arrival. Crossing the lone valley of MarmorisOj a remnant of volcanic action, rent and seamed with gaping fissures, the road turned over a large basaltic cone, which' had brought fearful devastation upon the whole surrounding country, and here one solitary gazelle browsed on stubble like vegetation scorched to a uniform brown. Skirting the base of a barren range, covered with heaps of lava blocks, and its foot ornamented with many artificial piles, marking deeds of blood, the lofty conical peak of Jebel Seea.ro rose presently to sight, and not long afterwards the far-famed Lake Assal, surrounded by dancing mirage, was seen spark ling at its base. " ''"- -1 ¦¦•¦• ¦'.-- The first glimpse of the strange phenomenon, although curious, was far from pleasing. An elliptical basin, seven miles in its transverse axis, half filled with smooth water of the deepest cserulean blue, and half' with a solid sheet of -glittering snow-white salt, the offspring of evapo ration — girded on three sides by huge hot-looking mountains, which dip their bases into the very bowl, and on the fourth by crude halfrformed rocks of lava, broken and divided by the most unintelligible chasms, — it presented the appearance of a spoiled, or at least of a very unfinished piece of work. Bereft alike of vegetation and of animal life, the ap pearance of the wilderness of land and stagnant water, over which a gloomy silence prevailed, and which seemed a temple for ages consecra ted to drought, desolation, and sterility, is calculated to depress the spirit of every beholder. No sound broke on the ear ; not a ripple played on the water ; the molten surface of the lake, like burnished steel, lay unruffled by a breeze ; the fierce sky: was without a cloud, and the angry sun, like a ball of metal, at a white heat, rode triumphant in a full blaze of noon-tide refulgence, which in sickening glare was darted back on the straining vision of the fainting wayfarer, by the hot sulphury mountains that encircled the: still, hollow, basin. A white foam on the $0 MAJOR HARRIS'S JOURNEY shelving shore of the dense water, did contrive for a brief momentj to deceive the eye with an appearance of motion and fluidity; but.fhespo^, on more attentive observation, ever remained unchanged — a crystallized ¦efflorescence. As the tedious road wound on oyer basalt, basaltic lava, and amygda loid, the sun, waxing momentarily mprp intensely powerful, wasreflecle/l with destructive and stifling fervour from slates of snow-white sea lime stone borne on their tops. Still elevated far above the level of the ocean, a number of fossil shells, of species now extinct, were discovered ; a deep cleft by the wayside, presenting the unequivocal appearance of the lower crater of a volcano, situs/ted on the high basaltic range abpve, whence the lava stream had bepn disgorged through apertures burst in the rocks, but which had re- closed after thp violence of the eruption had subsided. Dafari, a wild broken chasm at some distance from, the road, usually ¦Contains abundance of rain water in its rocky pool, but having already been long drained to the dregs, it offered no temptation to halt. Another most severe and trying declivity had therefore to be overcome, ere the long and sultry march was at an end. It descended by craggy preci pices many hundred feet below the level of thp sea, to. the small ,el©.se sandy plain of Mpoya, on the borders of the Lake-— a positive J-qhamnami, where the gallant captain pf the " Constance "*. had already been some hours esconced under the leafless branches of one poor scrubby thorn, which afforded the only screen against the stifling blast of the sirocco, and the merciless rays of the refulgent orb over-head. Adyli, a deep mysterious cavern at the further extremity of the plain, is believed by the credulous to be the shaft leading to a sub terranean gallery which extends to the head of Goobut el Kharab. Foul-mouthed vampires and ghouls were alone wanting to complete the horrors of this accursed spot, which, from its desolate position, might have been believed the last stage in the habitable world A close mephitic^teneh impeding respiration, arose from the saline exhalations of the stagnant lake. A frightful glare from the white salt and limestone hillocks thrjpateiied des truction to the vision; and a sickening heaviness in the loaded atmosphere, was enhanced rather than alleviated by the fiery breath of the parching north- westerly wind, which blew without any intermission during ;fche >en±Ke-diwp. The air was inflamed, the sky~ sparkled^, and columns of feuraing sand, which at quick intervals towered high, Hj>#xthe dazzling atmosphere, became so illumined as to appear like tall pillars of fire. ¦Crowds pf, horses, mules, and fetid camels, tormented to madness by the dire persecutions of the poisonous gad-fly, flocked recklessly with an instinctive dread of the climate, to share the only bush ; and obstinately ¦disputing with their heels the slender shelter it afforded, compelled seve ral of the party to seek refuge in noisome caves formed along tjhe foot of the range by fallen masses pf volcanic rock, which had become heated to, a temperature seven times in excess of a potter's kiln, and fairly baked up the marrow in the bones. Verily ! it was " an evil place," that lajfe of gait: it was "no place of seed, nor of figs, nor yet of vines ; no, nor «ven of pomegranates ,; neither was there any water to drink." In this unventilated and diabolical hollow, dreadful indeed w^'e the sufferings in store both for man and beast. Not a drop of fresh •water existed within many miles; and, nptw^hstandLng that every human precaution had been taken to secure a supply, by means of skins carried upon camels, the very great extent of meat uajj^tigahle country to he, traversed, which had unavoidably led to %B detejilsgn * Lieut, Wilmot Ohwstopheir.-i-J. B. FROM TAJURREH TO ANKOBAR 91 of nparly all, added to the difficulty of -restraining a multitude maddened by the tortures of burning thirst,' rendered -the provision quite insuffi cient; and .during the whole of this appalling day, with the mercury in the thermometer standing at 126° under the shade pf cloaks and um brellas — in a suffocating" Pandemonium, depressed five hundred and seventy feet below the ocean, where no zephyr fanned the fevered skin, and where the glare arising from the sea of white salt was most painful to the eyes ; where the furnace-like vapour exhaled, almost choking res piration, created an indomitable thirst, and not the smallest shade or shelter existed, save such as was afforded, in cruel mockery, by the stunted boughs of the solitary leafless acacia, or, worse still, by black blocks of heated lava, it was only practicable, during -twelve tedious hours, to supply to each of the party two quarts of the most mephitic brick-dust-Qqloured fluid, which the direst necessity could alone have forced down the parched ithroaifc, and which, after all, far -from alleviating thirst, served materially to augment its 'insupportable horrors. By is true that since leaving' the shores of India, the party had gradu ally been in training towards a disregard of dirty water — a ciroumstanep ofrathpr fortunate occurrence. 'Oh board a ship of any description the fluid jis seldom very clean, or very plentiful. At ,Cape Aden there was 'little perceptible difference -betwixt the sea water and the land water. At Tajura' the beverage obtainable was far from being improved in quality by the taint of the new Skins in which it was transferred €rom the only well ; and-now,in the veryheart of the scorching Tehama, when a_ cppious draught of aqua pur a seemed absolutely indispensable every five minutes, to secure further existence upon earth, the detestable mix ture that was at long intervals most parsimoniously produced, was 'the veiy .acme of abomination. Fresh hides,„stripped from the rank lie-goat, besmeared inside as well as out with old tallow and strong bark tan, filled from an impure wpH at Sagallo, tossed, tumbled, and shaken during twp entire nights on a camel's back, a,nd brewed during the same num- iber.of intervening days.under a strong distilling; heat— poured out an amalgamation of ,pbttage of which the individual ingredients of goat'-s 'hair, rancid mutton fat, astringent 'bark, and putrid water, were not to b>p distinguished. It might be smelt at the distance of twenty yards, yet all, nativp,and European, were, struggling and quarrelling for a-taste of the recipe. The crest-fallen mules, who had not moistened their cracked 'lips. during two entire days, crowding, around the bush, thrust their hot noses into the faces of their masters, in reproachful intimation of their desire to participate in. the .filthy 'but tantalising decoction; and deterred with "diffipulty. from draining the last dregs, they ran-franticfy With open mouths to:seek mitigation of their sufferings at the deceptive waters, of the briny lake, which, ;hke those of Qm^but el "Kharab, were so intensely salt, . as to create smarting of 'the lips if .tasted. Slowly flapped thetleaden wmgadf^Time on that dismal day. Each weary .hour brought a grievous accession, but no alleviation, to thefear- fifi torments Pndured. ,TJhe stagnation of the atmosphere continued undiminished,; tile pangs of thirst increased, but no water arrived ; and .the sun.' s, despotic 'c&fmxnion on the meridian, appeared -toejknpw -no ter- minatipn. "But the" longest day must .Close .at last, and' the great Juminary1 had at "length run his fiery and tyrannical course. String after string jaf .loaded camels, wearied with the passage of the rugged defile of IRah 'EpSfJh, »were with infinite difficulty-urged down thp" last steep deelivity, feanfl at jong intervals, as ithe shadows "lengthened, niade 4heir tardy appearance upon the desert plain; those carrying water, tents, and tne 92 MAJOR HARRIS'S JOURNEY greater portion of the provisions most required, being nevertheless -still in the rear when the implacable orb went down, shorn of his last fierce ray. The drooping spirits of all now rose with the prospect of speedy departure from so fearful a spot. The commander of the friendly schooner, which had proved of such inestimable service, but whose pro tecting guns were at length to be withdrawn, shortly set out on his return to the vessel with the last despatches from the Embasy, after bidding its members a final farewell ; and in order to obtain water, any further deprivation of which must have involved the dissolution of the whole party, no less than to escape from the pestilential exhalations of the desolate lake, which, as well during the night as during the day, yielded up a blast like that curling from a smith's forge — withering to the human frame — it was resolved as an unavoidable alternative, to leave the baggage to its fate, and to the tender mercies of guides and camel- drivers, pushing forward as expeditiously as possible to Goongoonteh, a cleft in the mountains that bound the opposite shore, wherein water was known to be abundant. Pursuant to this determination, the Euro pean escort, with the servants, followers, horses, and mules, were held in readiness to march so soon as the moon should rise above the gloomy lava hills, sufficiently to admit of the path being traced which leads beyond the accursed precincts of a spot, fitly likened by the Danakil to the infernal regions. Dismal, deadly, and forbidding, but deeply interesting in a geologi cal point of view, its overwhelming and paralysing heat precluded all possibility of minute examination, and thus researches were of necessity confined to the general character of the place. Latitude, longitude, and level were, however, accurately determined, and many were the theories ventured, to account for so unusual a phenomenon. Of two roads which lead to Goongoonteh from the shores of the dreary Bahr Assal, one skirts the margin of the lake by a route utterly desti tute of fresh water ; whilst the other, although somewhat more circuit ous, conducts over high lava banks stretching some distance inland to Haliksitan, and past the small well of Hanlefanta, where the drained pitcher of the fainting wayfarer may be refilled. On finally quitting the bivouac under the scraggy boughs of the dwarf acacia, where the tedious and most trying day had been endured— which each of the half-stifled party did with an inward prayer that it might never fall to his lot to seek their treacherous shelter more — a fierce dispute arose amongst the leaders of the caravan as to which path should be adopted. "What matters it," urged the intolerant Mohammadan from Shoa, who had accidentally been found starving at Ambabo, and been since daily fed by the Embassy — " what matters it if all these Christian dogs should happen to expire of thirst ? Lead the Kafirs by the lower road, or, Allahu dkbar, God is most powerful, if the waters of the well prove low, what is to become of the mules of the Faithful ? " But the breast of the son of AH Abi fortunately warmed to a more humane and charitable feeling than the stony heart of the " red man." With his hand upon the hilt of his creese, he swore aloud upon the . sacred Koran to take the upper path, and stoutly led the way, in de fiance of all, after Izhak and the ruthless bigots in his train had actually entered upon a route, which the event proved must have in volved the destruction of all less inured than the savage to the hard ships of the waste wilderness. 'Twas midnight when the thirsty party commenced the steep ascent of the ridge of volcanic hills which frown above the south-eastern boundary of the fiery lake. The searching north-east wind had FROM TAJURREH TO ANKOBAR. §3 scarcely diminished in its parching fierceness, and in hot suffocating gusts swept fitfully over the broad glittering' expanse of water! and salt, whereon the moon shone brightly — each deadly puff succeeded by the stillness that foretells a tropical hurricane — an absolute absence even of the smallest ruffling of the close atmosphere. Around, the prospect was wild, gloomy, and -unearthly, beetling basaltic cones and jagged slabs pf shattered lava-— -the children of some mighty trouble— forming scenery the most shadowy and extravagant. A chaos of ruined churches and cathedrals, eedgahs, towers, monuments, and minarets, like the ruins of a demolished world, appeared to have been confusedly tossed together by the same volcanic throes, that When the earth was in labour, had produced the phenomenon below ; and they shot their dilapidated spires into the molten vault of heaven, in a fantastic medley, which, under so uncertain a light, bewildered and perplexed the heated brain. The path, winding along the crest of the ridge, over sheets of broken lava, was rarely of more than sufficient width to admit of pro gress in single file ; and the livelong hours, each seeming in. itself a century, were spent in scrambling up the face of steep rugged preci pices, where the moon gleamed upon the bleaching skeleton of some camel that had proved unequal to the task — thence again to descend at the imminent peril of life and limb, into yawning chasms and . dark abysses, the forbidding vestiges of bygone volcanic agency. The horrors of that dismal night set the efforts of description at de fiance. An unlimited supply pf water in prospect, at the distance of only sixteen miles, had for the brief moment buoyed up the drooping spirit which tenanted each way-worn frame; and when an exhausted mule was unable to totter further, his rider contrived manfully to breast the steep hill on foot But owing to the long fasting and privation endured by all, the limbs of the weaker soon refused the task, and after the first two miles, they dropped fast in the rear. Fanned by the fiery blast of the midnight sirocco, the cry for water, uttered feebly and with difficulty by numbers of parched throats,' now became incessant ; and the supply of that precious element brought for the whole party falling short of one gallon and. a half, it was not long to be answered. A tiny sip of diluted vinegar for a moment assuaging the burning thirst which raged in the vitals, and consumed some of the more down-hearted, again raised their drooping souls ; but its effects were transient, and after struggling a few steps, overwhelmed, they sunk again, with husky voice declaring their days to be numbered, and their resolution to rise up no more. Dogs incontinently expired upon the road ; horses and mules that once lay down, being unable from ex haustion to rally, were reluctantly abandoned to their fate ; whilst the lion-hearted soldier, who had braved death at the cannon's mouth, subdued and unmanned by thirst, finally abandoning his resolution, lay gasping by the way side, and heedless of the exhortation of his officers, hailed approaching dissolution with dehght, as bringing the termination of tortures which were not to be endured. . Whilst many of the escort and followers were thus unavoidably left stretched with open mouths along the road, in a state of utter insensi bility, and apparently yielding up the ghost, others, pressing on to arrive at water, became bewildered in the intricate mazes of the wide wilderness, and recovered it with the utmost difficulty. As another day dawned, and the round red sun again rose in wrath over the Lake of, Salt, towards the hateful shores of which the tortuous path was fast tending, the courage of all who had hitherto borne up against fatigue and anxiety began to flag. A dimness came before the drowsy H 94 major Harris's journey eyes, giddiness seized the brain and the prospect ever held out by the guides,, of quenching thirst immediately in advance, seeming like the tantalising delusions of a dream, had well nigh lost its magical effect ; when, as the spirits of the most sanguine fainted within them, a wild Bedouin was perceived, like a delivering angel from above, hurrying forward with a large skin filled with muddy water. This most well- timed supply, obtained by Mohammad Ali from the small pool at Han- lefanta, of which, with the promised guard of his own tribe, by whom he had been met, he had taken forcible possession in defiance of the impotent threats of the ruthless " red man," was sent to the rear. It admitted of a sufficient quantity being poured over the face and down the parched throat, to revive every prostrate and perishing sufferer ; and at a late hour, ghastly, haggard, and exhausted, like men who had escaped from the jaws of death, the whole had contrived to straggle into a camp, which, but for the foresight and firmness of the son of Ali Abi, few individuals indeed of the whole party would have reached alive. A low range of limestone hillocks, interspersed with strange masses of coral, and marked by a pillar like that of Lot, encloses the well of Hanlefanta, where each mule obtained a shield full of water. From the glittering shores of the broad lake, the road crosses the saline incrus tation, which extends about two miles to the opposite brink. Soiled and mossy near the margin, the dull crystallised salt appears to rest upon an earthy bottom ; but it soon becomes lustrous and of a purer colour, and floating on the surface of the dense water, like a rough coarse sheet of ice, irregularly cracked, is crusted with a white yielding efflorescence, resembling snow which has been thawed and refrozen, but which still, as here, with a crisp sound, receives the impress of the foot. A well trodden path extends through the prismatic colours of the rainbow, by the longitudinal axis of the ellipse, to the north-eastern extremity of the gigantic bowl, whence the purest salt is obtainable in the vicinity of several cold springs, said to cast up large pebbles on their jet, through the ethereal blue water. A second low belt of hills, gypsum and anhydrite, succeeded by limestone overstrewed with basaltic boulders, forms the western bank of the molten sea, and opens into a mountain ravine. Taking its source at Allooli, the highest point of the Gollo range, this torrent strives to disembogue into the extremity of the lake, although its waters seldom arrive so far, save during the rainy season. The high basaltic cliffs that hem in the pebbly channel, approximating in the upper course as they increase rapidly in altitude, form a narrow waist, where the first imnning stream that had greeted the eye of the pilgrims since leaving the shores of Asia, trickled onwards, leaving bright limpid pools, sur rounded by brilliant sward. Bowers, for ever green, enlivened by the melodious warbling of the feathered creation, and the serene and temperate air of the verdant meadows of Elysium, were absent from this blessed spot, but it was entered with feelings allied for the moment to escape from the horrors of purgatory to the gates of Paradise ; and under the shade cast by the overhanging cliffs, which still warded off the ardent rays of the ascend ing sun, it was with thankful hearts that the exhausted party, after the terrors of such a night, turned their backs upon the deadly waters of the stagnant lake, to quaff at the delicious rivulet of Goongoonteh au milimited quantity of cool though brackish fluid. Here terminated the dreary passage of the dire Tehama — an iron- bound waste, which, at this inauspicious season of the year, ppppses difficulties almost overwhelming in the path of the traveller. Setting FROM TAJURREH TO ANKOBAR. 95 asi^e the total absence pf water and forage throughout a burning tract of fifty miles — its manifold intricate mountain passes, barely wide enough to admit the transit of a loaded camel, the bitter animosity of the wild bloodthirsty tribes by which they are infested, and the uniform badness of the road, if road it may be termed, everywhere beset with the huge jagged blocks of lava, and intersected by perilous acclivities and descents — it is no exaggeration to state, that the stifling siroccP which sweeps across the unwholesome salt flat during the hotter months of the year, could not fail, within eight and forty hours, to destroy the' hardiest European adventurer. Some idea of the temperature of this terrible region, may be derived from the fact of fifty peunds of well- packed spermaceti candles having, during the short journey from Tajura, been so completely inplted out of the box as to be reduced to a mere bundle of wicks. Even the Danalril, who from early boyhood have been accustomed to traverse the burning lava of the Tehama, never speak of it but in conjunction with the devouring element, of whose properties it partakes so liberally, and when alluding to the Lake of Salt, invariably designate it " Fire." Goongoonteh, a deep gloomy zig-zagged fissure, of very straitened dimensions, is hemmed in by craggy lava and basaltic walls, intersected by dykes of porphyry, augitic greenstone and pistacite, with decom-" posed sulphate of iron, all combining to impart a strangely variegated appearance. Scattered and inclined in various directions, although towering almost perpendicularly, they terminate abruptly in a rude pile of rocks and hills, through a narrow aperture in which the path to the next halting ground at Allooli, where the torrent takes its source, strikes off at an angle of 90°, Huge prostrate blocks of porphyry and basalt, which have been launched from the impending scarps, and now reduce the channel to this narrow passage, are in places so heaped and jammed together by some mighty agency, as to form spacious and commodious caverns. In the rainy season especially, these doubtless prove of wonderful con venience to the wayfarer ; and no tent arriving until late the following day, the re-assembled party were fain to have recourse to them for shelter against the fierce hot blast from the Salt Lake, which, unre mitting in its dire persecutions, now blew directly up the ravine. But the rocks soon became too hot to be touched with impunity, and the oblique rays of the sun, after he had passed the meridian, darting through every aperture, the caves were shortly converted into positive ovens, in which the heat, if possible, was even more intolerable than ever. Unlike former stations, however, there was, in this close unventi. lated chasm, a luxurious supply of water to be obtained from the living rill which murmured past the entrance, and although raised to the temperature of a thermal spring by the direct influence of the solar rays, and withal somewhat brackish to the taste, it was far from being pronounced unpalatable. Notwithstanding that the neighbourhood afforded neither the smallest particle of forage nor of fuel, it became necessary, in consequence of the non-arrival of one-half of the camels, no less than from the exhaustion of many of the party, to halt a day in the hot unhealthy gully ; and this delay afforded to the treacherous creese of the lurking Bedouin an opportunity of accomphshing that which had' only been threatened by drought and famine. The guides objected strongly to the occupation of the caves after nightfall, on account of the many marauding parties of Eesah and Mudaito, by whom the wady is infested, every one, as a measure of precaution, slept in the open air. among the baggage, half a h 2 96 major Harris's journey-,-.. mile lower down the ravine, where the caravan had halted. The dry sandy bed of the stream was here narrow, and the cliffs — broken for a short distance on either side into hillocks of large distinct boulders — again resumed then* consistency, after an interval of one hundred yards, and enclosed the camp in a deep gloom. It had been intended to march at break of day to Allooli, the source of Wady Goongoonteh; but the absence of several of the camels, which had gone astray during the nocturnal confusion, caused delay in this den of iniquity until ten o'clock. The last rains having washed away an artificial bank of stones which had formerly facilitated the ascent of the difficult and dangerous passage leading from Goongoonteh into the Wady Kelloo — as the upper course is denominated — a delay of two hours was at first starting experienced m the bed of the torrent, during which all were on the alert. Two huge pointed rocks abutting on opposite angles of the acute zig-zag, reduced it to a traversed waist, so narrow, that room for the load to pass was only afforded when the long-legged dromedary swung its unwieldy carcass alternately from side to side — the steepness of the acclivity rendering it very frequently necessary to perform this incon venient evolution upon the knees. . Many became jammed, and were unladen before they could regain an erect position ; whilst others were, with infinite difficulty, by the united efforts of a dozen drivers, who manned the legs and tail, saved from being launched with their burthens over the steep side of the descent, which consisted of a treacherous pile of loose rubbish. To the surprise of every spectator the train passed through the defile without any material accident, and thence proceeded to pick their steps among the rocks, pools, and fissures, which abound in every mountain torrent whose course is short and precipitous. Flanked by perpendicular sheets of basalt and porphyry, of unwholesome sulphury appearance, beneath which many deep pools of cool water had col lected, the tortuous road was at intervals enlivened by clumps of the doom palm, environed by patches of refreshing green turf — sights from which the eye had long been estranged. Nine miles of gradual ascent brought the caravan safely to the encamping ground at the head of the stream — a swamp surrounded by waving palms and verdant rushes, occupying high table-land, and affording abundance of green forage to the famished cattle. Most fortunately the sky had proved cloudy, or the march, performed during the hottest hours of the day, would indeed have been terrific. Hence to Sagallo, the dismal country is in the exclusive occupation of a wandering race of the Danalril, who, notwithstanding that the Sultan of Tajura claims the sovereignty of the entire waste, only acknowledge his impotent authority during their occasional temporary sojourn among the tuts of that sea-port. The guides asserted, with many imprecations, that from time immemorial few kafilahs had ever halted at Allooli without losing one or more of its members by the Adrusi creeses, or by those of the Eesah ; and on the bank opposite to the shady clump of doom palms, under whose canopy the residue of the day was passed, numerous cairns, consisting of circular piles of stone, similar to those left at Goongoonteh to commemorate the outrage of the preceding night, stood memorials of the dark deeds that had been perpetrated. During about three years the road from Abyssinia to the sea coast was completely closed by hordes of these ruffian outcasts, who con tinued their murderous depredations on every passer-by, until Loheita, FROM TAJURREH TO ANKOBAR. 97 the present Akil of the Debeni, a young, daring, and warlike chieftain, succeeding to the rule on the demise of his father, routed the banditti after a' severe struggle, and re-opened the route. The Wady Kelloo is, however, permanently infested by parties of wild Bedouins, who skulk about the rocky passes, He in wait for stragglers from the caravan, assassinate all who fall into their ruthless clutches, and, when time permits, further gratify their savage propensities by mangling and mutilating the corse. Although AUooH was represented to be even more perilous than Goongoonteh, it possessed, in point of locality, immense superiority ; and every advantage that could be devised was taken of its capabilities for defence. The baggage, formed in a compact circle on an open naked plain, was surrounded by a line of camels, and the mules and horses were placed in the centre next to the beds of the party. Guards and sentinels patrolled under an officer of the watch ; and at the soHci- tation of the Ras el Kafilah, who was exceedingly anxious to avoid the inconvenient consequences of a blood feud, a musket was discharged every hour at the reHef of Sentries, in order to intimate to the evil- minded that aU within the breast- work were not asleep. Nof^thstandihg the presence, in the immediate neighbourhood, for several days previously, of a large band of Eesah, the hot night passed without any alarm. The non-arrival, until long after day-break, of the camels lost at Goongoonteh, added' to the length of the next march, obHging the abandonment of the intention entertained, to speed beyond the pale of this site of assassination, the party halted on the 10th. AllooH stands two hundred and twenty-eight feet above the sea, and, although intensely hot, and its waters saline, it proved a paradise when compared with every preceding station. Here animal life was once more abundant. A horde of pastoral savages, who from time to time appeared on the adjacent heights, were made acquainted with the effect of rifle bullets, by the slaughter from the tent door of sundry gazels that visited the swamp ; and the venison afforded a most seasonable accession to the empty larder, which was further replenished from the trees overhead, whose fan-like leaves gave shelter to a beautiful variety of the wood pigeon. Shortly after midnight the march was resumed by the moon's Hght over a succession of small barren terraces, confined by conical and rounded hills. In the lone valley of Henraddee Dowar, which opens into the wide level plains of Gurguddee, there stood by the way-side a vast pile of loose stones, half concealed among the tall jaundice-looking flowers of the senna, plant. Gurguddee, eight miles in length, and stretching on either hand to the far horizon, is bounded by steep mountain ranges, whence an alluvial deposit, washed down by the rains, presented over the whoie of the level plain a surface of cracked and hardened mud, like that of a recently-dried morass. From the southern side, where the clayey tract is thickly clothed with stunted tamarisk and spartium, a road strikes up the valley in a north-westerly direction to the Mudaito town of Aussa, distant some three days' journey for a caravan. As the day dawned, the steeple necks of a troop of ostriches were perceived nod ding in the landscape, as the gigantic birds kicked the dust behind their heavy heels; and a herd of graceful gazels were seen scouring towards a belt of stony hillocks which skirted the dry pebbly bed of a river, that expends its waters on the sun-dried plain. The caravan halted early at Bedi Kurroof, after a march of sixteen miles, and the camp was formed on a stony eminence of basalt and lava, 9.8 MAJOR HARRIS'S JOURNEY affording neither tree nor shade. A day of fierce heat succeeded. There was no forage for the cattle ; the water was of the most brackish description; and the spot being of old infested by Bedouins, the party passed a restless and watchful night. A legend of blood too was attached to this wild bivouac, as to most others on the road. Some hours before dawn on the 12th, the kafilah was again loaded and in motion across a low belt of stony eminences which gradually descend to the Kori Wady, a long water- course, varying in width from two to four hundred yards. Threading the moist channel of this stream, where the foot often absolutely left an impression on the sand, and passing the watering pool of Leile, the road ascended a deep valley to the halting ground at Suggadera, in the country of the Danakil Debeni. The entire borders were flanked by dwarf palms and drooping tamarisk, bounded by low hills with cliffs of conglomerate and sandstone, Which disclosed dykes of porphyry at an acute angle. Flocks of goats, diH- gently browsing on the fat pods which fall at this season from the acacia, were tended by ancient Bedouin crones in greasy leathern petticoats, who plaited mats of the spHt date-leaf; whilst groups of men, women, and children, lining the eminences at every turn, watched the progress of the stranger party. A pastoral race, and subsisting chiefly upon the fermented juice of the palm, and upon the -milk derived from numerous flocks of sheep and goats, or from a few breeding camels, the Debeni, a division of the Danakil, are during certain months of the year engaged in the trans portation of salt from the deadly Bahr Assal to the Mudaito town of Aussa, where it is bartered for grain. Architecture affords no term appHcable to a structure of any kind inferior to a hut or hovel, or it might with propriety be appHed to the base jumble of rough stone and shavings of the date stalk, tenanted by these nomade savages, who are divided into clans, and have no fixed habitations. Nevertheless, there was something cheering in the aspect even of these frail edifices, the first human tenement which had greeted the eye since leaving the sea- coast, now ninety miles distant. Bare, desolate, and fiery, the entire intervening tract, although infested by the lurking robber and the midnight assassin, may be pronounced, in aU its sultry parts, utterly unfitted for the location of man. Water of rather an improved description was obtained at Suggadera, under basaltic rock, stained green by carbonate of copper. But not a particle of forage was to be had ; and the heat, reflected from a pebbly hill beneath which the tent was erected, brought the mercury in the thermometer to 118°, during the greater portion of the day ; and the evil appearance of the place, surrounded by gloomy hills cast into the deepest shadow, led to the maintenance of a vigilant watoh during the dark night. Although disturbed at the early hour of 2 a.m., and denied further repose save on the bare ground, the loss of a camel, which was not recovered until late, so far retarded advance, that only four miles were achieved on the 13th. The road continued to wind with a gentle ascent along the bed of the Wady K6ri, the hflls gradually diminishing in apparent height until they merged into the elevated plain of Mnrrah, which exhibited pebbles of pink quartz, with a few scanty tufts of sweet- scented grass, yellow and withered. Here, at the distance of two miles from a puddle of dirty rain-water, in defiance of the impotent Ras el Kafilah, the camel- drivers, who studiously avoid trees and the vicinity of a pool, rpsolved to halt, as being a place after their own hearts. FROM TAJURREH TO ANKOBAR. 99 In the dry water- course just left, the chirruping of some soHtary hermit bird, and the bursting bud. of a certain dwarf shrub which clothed the borders, agreeably reminded the traveller of more favoured climes. But most completely was the illusion dispelled by the forbid ding aspect of the sultry plain of Murrah. Monotonous fields strewn with black boulders, glaring in the sun, distressed the gaze wheresoever it was turned — each cindery mass seeming as though it had been showered down during a violent eruption of some neighbouring volcano ; although, on nearer inspection, it proved to be the time-worn fragment pf an extensive lava sheet. The bare stony plain was decorated with numerous cairns, marking deeds of treachery and blood; and at the distance of twenty miles rose a lofty range of hot table-land, behind which the Abyssinian river Hawash is lost in the great lake of Aussa. The presence of the watering-place of a host of wild Bedouins, whose appearance was far from prepossessing, again induced the cautious elders to anticipate an attack; and the camp occupying a very un favourable position for warlike operations, no Httle difficulty was experienced in making defensive dispositions. A gloomy black hill threw its impenetrable shadow immediately in front ; and on the flank a pile of half-ruined sheepfolds, constructed of blocks of lava, afforded extensive concealment. The night, however, passed away without any alarm, and the intense heat of the day giving place to a somewhat cooler atmosphere, admitted of sleep by turns in some comfort — parties of the Danakil escort contriving, by chanting their wild war chorus, to keep their heavy eyes longer open than usual. An hour after midnight the loading commenced, and the steep rocky hill having been surmounted by a path strewed with loose stones, a terrace of slow ascent, presenting the same dreary appearance of rooks and lava boulders, continued during the residue of the moon's reign. At break of day, however, the aspect of the country began rapidly to mprove. Gaining the higher and more salubrious level of Gulamo, the bare sterile land, strewed with black blocks of lava which tore the feet with their jagged edges, was fast giving place to sandy plains covered with dry yeUow grass— -a, most welcome prospect for the exhausted cattle. Heretofore, saving in the wadys, no tree had been seen except smaU stunted leafless acacias, few and far between, and Scarcely deserving of the name. Several small ravines were now choked with continuous groves, and a mountain stream termed Che*- kaito, which rises in the country of the Eesah, and in the rainy season disembogues into the lake of Aussa, was thickly clothed on both sides with green belts of tamarisk, wild caper, and other wood, overhung with creeping parasites, and affording food and shelter to birds. The pensile nests of the long-tailed loxia depended from the boughs ; and whflst the stems, covered with drift to the height of fifteen feet, gave evidence of a headlong course during the rains, water, even at this season, was here and there to be obtained. After five times crossing the serpentine bed to the point of junction with the SagulH, where ostriches cropped the grass around numerous deserted sheep-pens, the caravan finally halted at Duddee, no great distance from Ramudele. For days together the pilgrimage had led across dreary and desolate wastes, and through sterile ravines where no verdure reHeved the eye, no melody broke upon the ear, and so few living creatures were to be seen, that the unwonted appearance of a soHtary butterfly which had beeome bewildered in the desert, was duly hailed as an event. The general character is that of a stern wilderness, parched by the intolerable heat of a vertical sun blazing in fierce 100 MAJOR HARRIS'S JOURNEY refulgence over the naked landscape, of which the chief varieties "consist in immense plains of dry cracked mud, or in barren rocks towering towards an unclouded and burning sky. The utter steriHty of the soil is rather marked than alleviated by occasional sickly plants of most puny growth, and by the scanty verdure of the few vaUeys wherein water is to be found, generaUy in a state of stagnation. But at Duddee forage and fuel were abundant. The water obtained by digging in the channel of the stream was no longer brackish. The heat, although the thermometer rose to 110°, was infinitely more endurable than it had hitherto proved; and the insatiable thirst by which all had been incessantly, tormented on the lower ground, had well nigh dis appeared. A march of twelve miles over a succession of grassy plains, un tenanted by maii or beast, but presenting the first cone of the termites that had been seen, brought the party on the 15th to the enclosed valley of Gobaad, a thousand and fifty-seven feet above the ocean. Volcanic ashes, jasper chalcedony, and quartz, strewed the sandy route, low volcanic ridges, of comparatively recent formation, intersecting the landscape from west to east. The encamping ground, among heaps of hard gravel, near which water was good and plentiful, had only two years previously formed the scene of the discomfiture of the Ras el Kafilah and his party, who had been plundered of aU they possessed by two hundred and fifty mounted Eesah. To Gobaad, from the shores of Lake Abhibbab, which is formed by the waters drained from Abyssinia, it is said to be one easy day's journey for the pedestrian. Ascending by an extremely bad road the broken range to the south ward, which commands a fine prospect over the vaUey of Gobaad, the kafilah reached Sankul on the 17th. It forms the focus of several small dales converging from the table-land, and shut in from aU breeze by the surrounding steep black cliffs of basalt, passing into hornblende. A small cave near the encamping ground was occupied by a colony of- industrious bees, and at the only well flocks of the diminutive black- faced Berbera sheep were drinking from a trough formed of an ox-hide stretched between four stakes, to which the water was transferred in gourds by greasy Bedouin shepherdesses. The evening was passed in perpetual wrangling with these matrons during the operation of filling up the" water-skins; and sad presage was afforded of a coming day of drought, which the exhausted and sinking cattle of the caravan were hourly waxing less able to endure. The next march led over the high table-land of Hood AH, a stony level thickly studded with dry grass, and extending in one monotonous plateau far as the eye could reach. The fetid carrion-flower here presented its globular purple blossoms among the crevices, and a singular medicinal plant, termed Lab-lubba, was detected by the keen eye of a savage who had before evinced a latent taste for botanical studies. The usual encamping ground at Arabd6ra was found to be pre-occupied by a nomade tribe of Bedouin goat-herds, who monopolised the scanty water. Descending the range, therefore, the bluff brow of which commanded an extensive prospect over the wide level vaUey of DuUool, the kafilah halted at Suggagedan. This arid spot in the strand- like waste was covered with masses of lava and with blocks of basalt from the adjacent hills. It was parched by a burning atmos phere, and afforded no water whatever — calamities which resulted in the abandonment of a horse and two of the mules that were no longer able to bear up against thirst and fatigue ; whilst many others now FROM TAJURREH TO ANKOBAR. 101 dragged their weary limbs with difficulty, and seemed but too Veil disposed to follow the example. DuUoolis one thousand two hundred and twenty-eight feet above the level of the sea — a perfect flat, covered with alluvial deposit, and studded with extensive tracts of coarse dry grass in tufts, among which, as the almost ^terminable string of camels crossed the following morning, both ostriches and gazels were described. It is bounded by a bold mountain range, and the further extremity of the plain, towards the foot of Jebel Marie, is perfectly bare, stretching away to the westward, in one uninterrupted sheet of hard compact mud, which imparts the" aspect of the Runn of Cutch. A herd of wild asses, precisely similar to those found on the Indian salt desert, materiaUy enhanced the resem blance ; and the sun, which had now attained considerable altitude,- casting his rays in a full blaze over the naked plain, called up the dancing mirage that was alone wanting to complete the picture. On this level expanse, which terminated in a md-de-saa, shut in by high basaltic waUs, inaccessible either to man or beast, the Adaiel affect to ride down the wild ass, upon lean mules forsooth, and to rip up the quarry with their creeses. There had been much vainglorious talking upon this head, but it ended, like every Danakil boast, in nothing. The hawk-eye of the Ogre detected an out-lying mare among the ravines at the foot of the range, and he dashed off the road with such Hghtning speed, that the animal narrowly escaped being hemmed into a corner ; but once on the broad desert, and she tossed her arched neck, kicked up her wanton heels, and laughed at the absurd efforts of her impotent pursuers. Loose stones again strewed the approach to the Marie range, which is of trap formation, of a slaty texture, stained with red iron oxide, and intersected by veins of iron clay. A breach in the hills,, here about a thousand or twelve hundred feet high, formed a steep sloping ridge of lava rocks, containing quantities of carbonate of lime, disposed in rhomboids and hexagonal sheets. In this nook, surrounded by a thick jungle of acacia, were sundry basins filled with clear water, to which the solar rays had not penetrated. They afforded most refreshing draughts ; and the skins having been replenished, the encampment was formed at Dawaylaka, a frill mile beyond. Marie is not a word either of Arabic or Dankali derivation ; whence it seems not improbable that this bold range of hiHs may in days of yore have been named by some wanderer from the West. A fine fresh morning succeeded to a very sultry night, passed upon the hard hot stones ; and at break of day, the cattle having been taken to the pools, where, at so early an hour, they would drink but Httle, the skins were again replenished, and the caravan pursued its march to Oomergooloof, which can boast of no water at any season. Of two roads, the lower, but more level, was adopted, in consequence of the exhaustion of the beasts of burthen. It led across a dry desert plain of six miles, over which the delusion of mirage was complete. Immediately opposite to Oomergooloof is a projecting spur from Jebel Oobnoo, a lofty range visible to the westward ; and thus divides the plain into- two vaUeys, whereof the southernmost is denominated Wady Arfa. The Marie range here towers overhead, steep and precipi tous, to the height of about nine hundred feet; stupendous masses of rock which have been detached from the summit, and strew the entire base, corroborating the assertion of the Danakil that earthquakes are frequently felt in the vicinity. Nomade tribes with their families and flocks, having settled at the wells which exist at a distance, had com- 102 MAJOR HARRIS'S JOURNEY pelted the gentler portion of the Libyan creation to resort to regions more blest with water; and not even a desert-loving gazel was espied during the march of twelve miles. Several herds of cattle pertaining to the Issehiraba Mudaito, grazed in the neighbourhood ; and these were said to derive their supply of water from pools formed by a cluster of hot sulphureous springs at. the further extremity of the plain, which, with a loud noise, rise bubbling from the earth at a boiling temperature. Possessing marveUous medicinal properties, they are beHeved to be a panacea for every malady : but the tribe not being on terms with the Danakil, these thermal wells could not be visited, neither could water be obtained either for man or beast. A few Mudaito females, with their children, strolled into the camp to sell sheep, and stare at the Feringees ; but the Ras el Kafilah would scarcely permit them to be spoken to, and was in a nervous fidget until they de parted. Avowing that these greasy dames had come for no other purpose than to spy out the nakedness of the land, and that the creeses of their liege lords would prove troublesome during the night, he strictly interdicted all wandering beyond camp limits, and insisted upon the discharge of several voUeys of musquetry in addition to the cartridge expended at guard-mounting, and at every reHef of sentries. The sky having become graduaUy overcast towards evening, a deluge, equally to be desired and dreaded, was deemed close at hand, but the threatening aspect passed off with the hot blast of the Shimal, accom panied by a cloud of dust, and foHowed by a close oppressive night. Skirting the Marie range to a tract thickly Strewed with rounded masses of lava and basalt, the detritus from the adjacent hills, the road now wound over a volcanic ridge which divides the vaUey of Dulool from that of Amadoo, running exactly paraHel to it. In this latter the caravan halted on the 21st, about a mile from a large pool of rain-water, occupy ing a rocky nook formed by huge blocks of basalt. The stagnant green fluid was far more palatable than it looked, although troubled by a legion of horned cattle, asses, goats, and sheep, the property of the Galeyla Mudaito, who were encamped in great force in the neighbourhood, and looked what they are said to be — most desperate villains. From Amadoo, Aussa was represented to be only one day's journey for a Swift mule, and two for a caravan of laden camels, the road branching off across Wady Aria, and over the Jebel Oobnoo range, by which the extensive vaUey is bounded. At this point, moreover, had ceased the pretended influence of Mohammad ibn Mohammad, Sultan of Tajura, the utter futility of propitiating whom had long been sufficiently apparent. Although in the eyes of the unitiated it was no difficidt matter to invest this avaricious imbecile with supreme authority over a fiery desolate tract, in most parts obviously unfitted for human location, his own immediate retainers did not now conceal that Mirsa Dukhan, and the Gollo mountams near the Salt Lake, bound even his nominal jurisdiction. He is in fact Sultan of the sultry strand whereon his frail tenement is erected; for the few lawless warriors beyond, over whom he would assert supremacy, are universally thieves and murderers, who disdain all fixed abode, disclaim all mortal control, and acknowledge their own unbridled inclinations as their only master. Aussa, formerly an important town, was, less than a century ago, the capital and principal seat of the united tribes of the Mudaito, who extend thence to Ras Billool, and are represented to be countless as the hairs of a Danakil head. Regarded as the seat of wisdom and learning, and governed in the latter days of its strength by Toosuf AH ibn Ajdahis, a brave and martial sultan, whose armoury boasted of many FROM TAJURREH TO ANKOABR. 1Q3 matchlocks, and of several small pieces of cannon, it long flourished in powerful independence — a bright spot of beauty in a waste of barren ness. But the sun of its prosperity at length set ; and the predatory hostflities long exercised towards the various united tribes of Adaiel, leading to a general invasion on the part of the Ado-himera, the prince was slain, the stronghold of the " red house " sacked, and its garrison put to the sword : nor in these degenerate days is this once important place more than an extensive encampment, whereat is held a perpetual fair, frequented by all the tribes of Danakil, Eesah, SomauH, and Mudaito. The site of Aussa, a wide-stretching valley, described to be, from eight to ton days' journey across for a caravan, is hemmed in by lofty mountams, and fertilised in aU its extended quarters by the Lakes Guraaid, Abhibbab, Hilloo, and Dugod — the first situated a Httle to the eastward of the town, and the last by far the largest of the four. These vast stagnant basins in the plain receive the Abyssinian waters of the Hawash and its tributaries, in addition to the contributions of all the streams from Jebel Qobnoo and other coHateral ranges — the abundance of fluid thus lost upon volcanic formation, so enriching the soil as to enable this district to produce wheat, juwarree, barley, Indian corn, pepper, and tobacco, in quantities sufficient for the supply of the entire coast. The Hawash may be conjectured to have experienced interruption in its course to the Bahr Assal and Bay of Tajura, at the same period that volcanic agency divided the waters of the great Salt Lake frpm Goobut el Kharab. Miles around the wonted boundaries of each lagoon now become annuaUy inundated during the spreading of the great freshes ; and, as the floods, carried off by absorption and evaporation, again recede, the soil is covered with a fertilizing sediment-^-a fat aHuvial deposit, which with Httle labour yields an ample return. Even the lazy and listless Danakil, who neither sows nor reaps elsewhere, is here induced to turn agriculturist ; but not a single acre of ground in any direction is to be found under the plough from the sea even to the mountains of Abyssinia— a distance exceeding three hundred and fifty mites. Pastoral as weU as agricultural pursuits engage the population of Assua; but whilst the cultivating, portion of the inhabitants are permanent residents on the soil, the shepherds are annuaUy driven away by the gad-fly, which attacks the flocks from the setting in of the rainy season until the termination of the fast of Ramzan, when the waters have again subsided, and the herdsman, descending from the mountains, returns to his occupation in the vaUey. An extensive commercial in tercourse is moreover carried on with Tajura. Salt from the Bahr Assal, blue caHco, which is in high demand for the caps universally worn by the married Bedouin females, zinc, pewter, and brass or copper wire, used both for personal ornament, and for the decoration of weapons, are bartered for the produce of the luxuriant soil — some few caravans crossing the Hawash, and pursuing their journey along the western bank to Dowwe, on the frontier of the WoUo GaUa, in order to purchase slaves ; or striking into the main road at Amadoo, and so prosecuting their way to Shoa for a similar purpose. Mudaito tribes occupy the entire plain of Aussa, but they are now divided into five distinct nations. The Assa-himera are under the rule of Humferi, a descendant of the ancient house of Ajdhahis, who preserves the empty title of Sultan, and resides at the decayed capital. Eastward are the Jsse-hiraba, governed by Das Ali, an independent chief, and thp 104 ' MAJOR HARRIS'S JOURNEY Galeyla, under Daamer Ibrahim ; south are the Darj who own allegiance to Akil1 Digger Myargi ; and west are the: ferocious Koorha, under the sway of Yoosuf Abbo Bekr, who, also with the title of Akil, resides at Ailta, and wages war indiscriminately on both Assa-himera and Debenik- Wdema. South-westward of the valley of Aussa are the independent Adaiel tribes Hurruk Bodaito, over whom presides Gobuz EHncha, a powerful chieftain, who has espoused Leni, daughter of Birru Lubo, the Prince of Argobba, and through whose territories Hes the high caravan route to Dowwe, with which the traffic is considerable. On the north, the Mudaito are bounded by the distinct nation styled Hirto, under the rule of Yingool Ali — Mohammadans, deriving their origin from the Arab invaders of the seventh century, and speaking a language not very dissimilar from the Adaiel, who claim the same descent. After a march of three miles on the 22nd, over a stony table-land thickly strewed with the never-ending basaltic boulders, the caravan entered the territory of the Danakil tribe Wdema, under the uncle and father of Mohammad Ali. A desolate hollow passed on the way, which appeared in the rainy season to form an extensive pond, was enlivened by four bee-hive-shaped wigwams, placed as usual "on the site where large hot stones were most abundant, and tenanted by goatherds, whose numerous flocks were being driven forth to graze by the Bedouin females. Their supply of water is derived from a sequestered pool, occupying a deep narrow precipitous ravine, which abounds in the Hyrax, and boasts of a few trees not dissimilar from the Casuarina. Bearing the euphonous title of Korandudda, this guHy wound at the foot of the high terrace selected for the encampment — another right dreary plain, Covered with volcanic pebbles, among which the dry yellow grass peeped out in scanty tufts. No traveller through the bleak barren country of the Adaiel can fail to appreciate the simile of " the shadow of a rock in aweary land ;" for a tree is indeed a rare phenomenon — and when a few leafless branches do greet the eye, they are studiously shunned, upon the same principle that induces the savage to eschew the immediate vicinity of water. A few straggling acacias occupied the valley of Fialoo, half a mile to the southward, which is the usual encamping ground, and here were large herds of cattle, eccentricaUy marked and brindled, and glorying in superb horns raking gracefully from the brow. A fat ox was purchased without difficulty; together with a supply of fresh milk, which, if not improved by confinement in a greasy skin bag, proved, nevertheless, an extraordinary luxury. One of the retainers of Mohammad Ali was now despatched to acquaint Ali Abi of the arrival of the kafilah. It had all along been promised that after entering the territories of the old Sheikh, every danger was to cease, but the goal now gained, the country proved to be a perfect nest of hornets. The thieving propensities of the Galeyla Mudaito having been lately exercised upon the Wdema, it had been resolved to inflict summary chastisement, and rag-a-muffins were col lecting from all quarters, preparatory to a " goo-m." From morning till night the camp and tent were unceasingly thronged with scowling knaves, amongst whom were several of the Eesah — their heads decorated with white ostrich plumes in token of having recently slain an antagonist in single combat, or more probably murdered some sleeping victim. A dense cloud of dust rolling along from the north-eastward, closed the day. Revolving within its own circumference, and ad vancing on a spiral axis, it burst in full force in the very centre of the FROM f AJURREH TO ANKOBAR. 105 camp. The tent fell on the first outpouring of its wrath, and the con sistency being so dense as to render it impossible to keep the eyes open, the party were fain to take refuge beneath tarpaulins, and stretched upon the ground, to listen with quick and difficult respira tion, until the whirlwind had expended its violence among chairs, table, and bottles. Many significant glances had been exchanged over portions of the baggage that had unavoidably been exposed ; but a night of redpubled vigilance was cut short by a summons to relinquish sleep and bedding at two in the morning, and a march of sixteen miles over a vas, alluvial flat conducted past the Bedouin station of UlwulH to Baruruddat on the plain of Kellali. The road led along the base of the low range of Jebel Eesah, through abundance of coarse grass concealing lava pieces and volcanic detritus, the prospect being bounded by distant blue mountains towering to the peak of Kuffal AH. A horhaan rose at intervals, wild and noisy as his chattering kindred in the south, but few other signs of animated nature enlivened the long sultry march. In the grey of the morning, a soHtary Bedouin horseman ambled past with some message to the savages aj; Amadoo, and from him was obtained the. disagreeable intelHgence, which subsequently proved too true, that not a drop of water existed over the whole of the wide plain within a day's journey, and that the station beyond was thronged with tribes, coHected with their flocks and herds from all the country round, at this the only oasis. , After a hot dusty day the sky was again overcast, and sufficient rain fell to render every one wet and uncomfortable, without filling the pools, ' or checking the dire persecutions of a host of cattle ticks, which covered every" part of the ground. Absence of water led to another midnight march, and the moon affording Httle light, the road was for some time lost, though eventually recovered by the sagacity of a female slave of Mohammad AH's, when all the lords of the creation were at fault. The road continued to skirt the low Eesah range for several miles* to the termination of the plain, which' becomes gradually shut in by rounded hills enclosing a dell choked with low thorns, and tenanted by by the galla^fielaf, a strange species of antelope, having a long raking neck, which imparted the appearance of a lama in miniature. As the day broke, flocks and herds were observed advancing from every quarter towards a common focus, and on gaining the brow of the last hill overhanging the halting-ground, a confused lowing of beeves and bleating of sheep arose from the deep ravine below, whilst the mountain sides were streaked with numberless white lines of cattle and goats descending towards the water. Arriving at the Wady Killulo, a most busy scene presented itself. Owing to the general want of water elsewhere throughout the country, vast numbers of flocks and herds had assembled from far and wide, and they were tended by picturesque members of all the principal tribes of Danakil composing the Debenik- Wdema, as weU as from the Eesah, the Mudaito, and their subordinate subdivisions. Dogs lay basking on the grassy bank beside their lounging masters ;' women, screaming to the utmost of their shrill voices, filled up their water skins with an ink- * The reader who may not feel thoroughly satiated with miles and furlfngs, as embodied in this narrative, is referred to the Appendix, where they will be found detailed in a tabular form. f i. e. camel-j 106 MAJOR HARRIS'S JOURNEY black fluid stirred to the consistency of mire, and redolent of pollution thousands pf sheep, oxen, and goats, assembled in dense masses in and , around the dark, deep pools, were undergoing separation by their respective owners, before being driven to pasture ; and with the long files that ascended and descended the mountain side in every direction,; imparted the bustling appearance of a great cattle fair. The temporary mat huts of all these nomade visitors who boasted of habitations were erected at a distance on the table- land to the south- westward of this important wady, which occupies a rugged rocky chasm opening upon the Kellali plain, and, receiving the drainage of aU the southern portion of the Oobnoo range, disembogues during the rainy season into the lake at Aussa. Even during this the hottest portion of the year, when the entire country elsewhere is dry, its rpcky pools em bedded in soft limestone, tainted with sulphuretted hydrogen, and abounding in rushes and crocodiles, afford an inexhaustible supply, without which the flocks and herds of the entire arid districts by which it is surrounded, could not exist. To it the horses and mules of the Embassy were indebted for a new lease of life, short though it proved to many. Two of the former and eleven of the latter had already been left to the hyasnas, in addition to the animal feloniously abstracted by the Hy Somauli, of the recovery of which Mohammad AH affected to be sanguine. The second knot in the string of the tedious journey had been unloosed by arrival at Ejllulloo, which is considered exactly half way from the sea- coast to the frontier of Abyssinia. But although the worst portion of the road was now behind, thp Embassy was destined to waste many days of existence in this vile spot, amidst annoying debates and discus sions, most trying to the patience, which threatened to terminate so unpleasantly as well nigh to result in the abandonment of the baggage, as affording the only prospect left of ever reaching the destination. Throughout this period of irksome detention, the thermometer stood daily at 112°, and the temperature of the small tent, already sufficiently oppressive, was rendered doubly unbearable by the unceasing obtrusions of the wild, dirty, unmannerly rabble who filled the ravine. On the last day of the month, after nearly a week's tedious detention in an insalubrious and soul-depressing spot, surrounded by black basaltic rooks, where little forage could be obtained, where water, although abundant, was extremely bad, and where the persecutions of , prying savages, from whom there was no escape, were unceasing, the Embassy was again permitted to resume its march. The" road wound up the Killulloo Wady, and thence over a barren rise strewed with obsidian, and with stones, the common pest of the country, to WaramilH. An interesting sight was presented in the line of march of a tribe proceeding in quest of water to the northward-^-a long line of dromedaries, horned cattle, oxen, sheep, and goats, inter spersed by women and children, scantily clad in leathern petticoats, and laden with the rude date matting of portable wigwams, or the still ruder implements of household gear. Whilst the females thus bore heavy burdens slung across their breasts or led the files of camels, upon which rocked the long, raking, ship-like ribs of the dismantled cabin, the lazy lords sauntered ungaUantly along, encumbered with naught save the equipment of spear and buckler, the ferocious aspect of all giving ample presage pf the intentions entertained towards any party less formidable than themselves. Total absence of water on the route usuaUy pursued had determined the Ras el Kafilah, after much discussion and deliberation, to adopt the FROM TAJURREH TO ANKOBAR. 107 lower and shorter road, which, in consequence of the frequent forays pf the Galla, had been for some years closed to caravans. But notwith standing that so much invaluable time had been lost at Killulloo under such provoking circumstances, and that the mareb finally made thence fell short of seven miles, hp again persisted in halting, thus affording to Hajji AH Mohammad and Wayess ibn Hagaio an opportunity of rejoin ing with a party of troublesome Bedouins, Waramilli is the usual encamping ground of a section of the Gibdosa Adaiel, but their place was fortunately empty. Completely environed by low hills, it proved insufferably hot ; and no water was obtainable nearer than Wady Killulloo, now distant more than two miles from the bivouac. Two windy nights, during which it blew a perfect hurricane, were passed in unabated vigilance, owing to the number of ruffians lurking about the broken ground, the waters whereof tumble in the rainy season into the rugged chasm of KiUulloo. At' an early hour on the 2nd of Jury, a voice went through the camp, summoning the slothful camel-drivers to bestir, themselves. A march of fifteen miles over a country more level than usual, though sufficiently rough and stony withal, led through the Doomi valley to Noga Koomi; An abutting prong of land, under which the road wound, was adorned with a cluster of bee-hive-shaped huts styled Koriddra, and at its base the Balsamodendron Myrrha grew abundantly, the aromatic branches furnishing every savage in the caravan with a new tooth-brush, to be carried in the scabbard of the creese. The encampment occupied a wide, dreary plain, bounded by the high mountain range of Jebel Feedh ; and although water was said to exist in the neighbourhood, it proved too distant to be accessible.. It rained heavily during the greater part of the night, and an early summons to raise found the party again drenched to the skin. Another march of fifteen miles brought the caravan to Meinha-tolH, where some hoHows had been filled by the recent heavy faU pf rain ; but largp droves of horned cattle having soiled in them, the muddy water was so strongly tainted as to be barely drinkable under any disguise. The country throughout bears signs of violent volcanic eruption- of. later times, which has covered one portion with lava, and another with ashes and cinders. At the outset the road led Over the usual basaltic ground, strewed with fragments of obsidian, but after crossing Arnoot, a deep ravine choked with refreshing green bushes, in whiph the ex hausted, beasts obtained a most welcome supply of muddy water, the stony valleys gave place to sandy plains, clothed with shDrt yellow grass, and intersected by low ranges of lulls. Thunder and Hghtening, with severe squalls and heavy rain, again closed the day — and great confusion and discomfort was occasioned by a sudden whirl of wind, foUowed by the fall upon the party, of the saturated tent, from the wet folds of which escape was not easily affected. A dreary night succeeded. The watery moon shed but a dull and flitting light over the drenched camp ; and the pacing officer of the watch, after an hour's exposure to the pitiless hurricane, calling up his relief, threw himself with aching bones upon the inundated bed. The rainy season having now fairly set in, it was beHeved that the pools on the upper road would furnish a sufficient supply of water, and the course was accordingly shaped towards it. Emerging upon the extensive plain of Merihan, bounded to the westward by the lofty peaked range pf Fp£oh, the route skirted the Bundoor hills, thickly clothed with grass, and varying in height from six hundred to a thousand feet, 108 MAJOR HARRIS'S JOURNEY Wayess, the chief of. the Wdema, formerly held his head quarters in this neighbourhood, at .Hagaio-dera-dubba; but the Eesah .Somauli making frequent inroads, and, at last sweeping off all the cattle of the tribe, it was abandoned. The hiU ranges on both sides have sent lava streams almost to the middle of the plain, but generally it is covered with a fine light coloured soil, strewn with volcanic ashes and small fragments of obsidian — the grass, improved by the recent showers, having partially acquired a greenish tint. A singular detached hiH composed of fresh- water limestone, contained a few impressions of small spiral shells, whilst the surrounding rocks exhibit the usual ceUular basalt. Wady Bundoora, clothed in the thicket of verdant bushes, had been selected as the halting ground, and its appearance promised a copious supply of water ; but every pool proved dry, and the march was there fore continued to Madera dubba — a second and similar ravine, which was confidently expected to afford the desired element. Disappointment was however again in store, and the rain not having extended thus far, the usual reservoirs were referred to in vain. Worse than all, infor mation was here received that not a drop of water would be found at the next. station; whilst, owing to the wear and tear of skins, added to the too confident anticipations indulged, barely a sufficient supply for even one day accompanied the kafilah. It had been determined under these untoward circumstances, to move on at midnight ; but after an insufferably hot day, rain again interfered. Unfortunately it did not faU in sufficient quantities to be of much utiHty ; a few pints caught in tarpaulins, which, with all available utensils, were placed for the reception of the precious fluid, proving very inadequate to the wants of the thirsty party. At 3 A.M. the caravan advanced down the valley, with cool refreshing weather, and a fine moon shining brightly overhead. From the summit of a tumulus of black lava, marking the point where the undulations of the Bundoora hills trend towards the mountains of the Ittoo GaHa, an extensive view was obtained with the dawning day, over a country bearing the most extraordinary volcanic character — huge craters on the one hand towering to the clouds, whilst on the other sank the wide vaUey of Kordite, through which lay the high road to the desolate plains of Errur. A few pools of muddy rain water by the way side were eagerly drained by the sinking cattle, but a deep ravine, bordered with green trees and bushes, was explored to no purpose ; and after crossing the fine open plain of Eyroluf, abounding in gazels and swine, the road led round the base of a remarkable cone, styled Jebel Hdlmund, which had long been in view. Isolated, and four hundred feet in height, with, a crater opening to the north-eastward, which would seem at no very remote period to have discontinued its eruption, it is surrounded by a broad belt of lava, some three miles in diameter. This has formed towards the plain a black scarped waU, rising from fifteen to twenty feet, of which the wooded crevices teemed with quail, partridges, and guinea-fowl, and were said to be so many great dens of lions. The sultry afternoon was already far advanced, when the weary eye was refreshed by a gHmpse of the verdant plain of Sultelli, a perfectly level expanse, so ingeniously overgrown with pale green vegetation as to furnish an exact representation of a wide lake covered with floating duckweed, around which numerous camels were busily browsing on the rank herbage. During -the greater part of the year, this plain presents one vast and delightful sheet of water ; but the fairy form of the Hght- footed gazel was presently seen bounding over the delusive surface, and FROM TAJtmREH TO ANKOBAR. 109 although clothed throughout with the most tantaHsing verdure, it yet proved perfectly dry. "The camels were milch females,- capable of sub sisting for days, and even for weeks together, without drinking, whilst their milk serves to quench the thirst of their unwashed Bedouin attendants. Beedur, the chief of a section of the Debeni, who resides in this spot during the rainy season, had long since decamped with his clan to more distant pastures. Every hoUow in the rich black soil abounding with shells, was vainly explored ; and after a seventeen mile march, the party, weary and thirsty, were fain to encamp on the opposite side, and giving up the search as fruitless, to rest satisfied with the nauseous contents of water-skins filled at the putrid pools of Meinha-tdlH — a second, and if ppssible, a worse edition of the impurities brewed at the Salt Lake. Both amongst men and cattle the utmost distress prevailed. A suffo cating blast blew "incessantly ; heat the most intense was reflected from the adjacent black rocks ; and nearly aU pf the horses and mules were so completely exhausted that there appeared no prospect of dragging" them other sixteen miles to the nearest reservoir. But towards midnight the beneficent flood-gates of Heaven were providentially opened, and a violent storm bursting oyer the camp, in less than half an hour filled every ravine and hollow to overflowing, and afforded a plentiful and truly seasonable, although transient, supply. Tearing up their pickets from the saturated soil, the dying animals thrust into the turbid stream that rolled through the encampment their hot noses, which for two entire days and nights had been strangers to moisture, and filled their sunken flanks almost to bursting. CackHng troops of guinea-fowl flocked to the pools from the adjaeent heights. Embankments were thrown up, and weUs exeavated; and European, Danakil, and camp-follower-- Christian, Moslem, and Hindoo— all drenched to the skin, falling together upon their knees in the posture of thanksgiving, sucked down the first copious draught of palatable water that had been enjoyed since leaving Fialoo. Singular and interesting indeed is the wild scenery in the vicinity of the treacherous oasis of SultelH. A field of extinct volcanic cones, vomited forth out of the entrails of the earth, and encircled each by a black belt of vitrified lava, environs it on three sides; and of these, Mount Abida, three thousand feet in height, whose yawning cup, en veloped in clouds, stretches some two and a half miles in diameter, would seem to be the parent. Beyond, the still loftier crater of Aiulloo, the ancient landmark of the now decayed empire of ^Ethiopia, js visible in dim perspective ; and looming haziiy in the extreme distance, the great blue Abyssinian range towards which the steps of the toil- Worn wayfarers were directed — now for the first time visible — arose in tower ing grandeur to the skies. The weU'timed deluge of rain which fell during the night had been so eagerly drunk by the thirsty desert, that when the morning dawned the only traces of the storm were presented in numberless channels left by the torrent, with here and there a muddy pool, around which the guinea-fowl were still rallying in clamorous troops. Every portion of the road having been saturated, and rendered far too heavy for the jale'd camels, advance was of necessity delayed until noon; by which time' they had become sufficiently dry to admit of the resumption of the journey. A bare aUuvial plain, skirting the base of the Kdbmi range, ted to a few acacia trees" of larger growth than had heretofore been seen. They occupied a hoUow styled Ras Mittur, which is the point of union of the two roads from Kilralloo, and hence the caravan 1 110 major Harris's journey struck, off across a grassy plain, abounding in herds of graceful mhori: The course foHpwed the eastern border of the field of truncated cones ; and in the fresh green ^hue of the bushes with which the cindery tract is studded, was afforded abundant proof of the fertihty of its decom posed lava. Passing a cluster of Bedouin huts, whose inmates were watching their grazing herds of milch camels, the road next threaded a narrow belt of verdant jungle. This suddenly opened into the wide plain of Moolu, studded in every direction with flocks of sheep and goats, assembled from aU parts of the country round ; and in a deep hoUow in the very centre lay the attraction — the oasis of Toor Erain Maroo, a noble sheet of water surrounded by a belt of hillocks, and measuring during even this season of drought, a full mile in diameter. It was indeed a sight most refreshing to the eye. Troops of water-fowl of various plumage sailed over its glassy surface. Birds chattered amongst the autumnal branches of the numerous trees, whose tall stems, half immersed, rose thickly in the centre, and the cool waters of the basin afforded to the weary and travel-stained pilgrims the first unlimited supply of pur,e Hquid that had been reveHed in since bidding adieu to the shores of India. In so sultry a land, where, throughout the desert and forbidding plain, Nature has dispensed the first necessary of life with a most niggard hand, those pools which have not a constant supply of running water soon become adulterated by various decompositions of organic and inorganic matter. Wacke cannot resist any long exposure, and hence fluid in contact with it imbibes oxide of iron and muriate of soda ; whilst flocks and herds, corrupting the element in a stfll more offensive manner, not only impart a fetid taste and smell, but stir up the deposited mud, which emits a volume of sulphuretted hydrogen. Toor Erain Maroo was free from aU these impurities, and its reservoir affords a never-failing supply ; but the surrounding country is said during the wet season to be extremely unhealthy, violent storms and incessant rain compelling the shepherds to abandon the plains and wadies, and retreat with their flocks to the neighbouring mountains. From WaramilH to Moolu, the country is chiefly occupied by the sub-tribes of Debeni, under the chiefs Beedur and Boo Bekr Sumbhool, the latter of whom usuaUy resides at Hamoosa, and the former at Doomi or SulteUi. Although not always to be trusted, these wanderers appear under a friendly garb ; but the Hon-hearted guides and escort, with Izhak at their head, had, from thp first moment of leaving Kil- luUoo, been doing their utmost to impress upon the minds of their audience the extreme danger to be apprehended on this portion of the road, from the various wild hordes now adjacent, whom they painted as perfect dare-devils. Neither fuel nor water could be discovered at the ground selected for the bivouac, but a small supply of the latter requisite was obtained on the way, from a muddy brook trickHng over the charred surface of the soil, and filling the gaping cracks and crevices on its progress towards the lower ground. Betimes in the morning the march was resumed across an alluvial plain, which a few days later in the season would probably have pre sented a swamp impassable to camels ; but no difficulties were now ex perienced, and the caravan passed merrily on towards a conspicuous barn-shaped hill, which had been visible for many miles. At its base, among sundry other cairns, stood a mound of loose stones encircled by a thorn fence, and almost concealed under the forest of withered boughs' FROM TAJURREH TO ANKOBAR. Ill that decked every part. Beneath this grotto reposed the sainted bones Othman, a celebrated Tukhaiel sheikh of days long gone. Picturesque clumps of magnificent camel-thorns of ancient growth here studded the face of the landscape, and, covered with golden blossoms, perfumed the entire atmosphere. The myrrh tree flourished on the hill-side, and the " garsee " was first found under a load of fruit resembling the " leechee." The bright crimson pulp possesses an agree able acidity, and the kernel that it envelopes pleases the Danakil in a mess of sheep's-tail fat. No wood had hitherto been seen sufficiently dense to invite the elephant ; but in this covert the giant evidently existed; and the oryx, appropriately styled " Aboo el hmroon," "the father of horns," ranged in considerable numbers ; the half-devoured carcase of one which had been slain the preceding night, attesting the presence also of the "king of beasts." Meanwhile the caravan had reached Bardudda, where a large pool of dirty rain-water extended strong inducements to encamp, and again left to a violent altercation between the authorities. The outlines of the highlands of Abyssinia, which had been first indistinctly visible from SultelH, now stood out in bold reHef ; and to the southward the view was bounded by the lofty bills of the Afrubb'a, Farsa, and Azbdti Galla, where coffee grows wild in abundance. An intermediate extensive prospect is obtained over the thickly-wooded Moolu plain, stretching some thirty miles in the direction of Error. This latter is the residence of the old sheikh Hajji Ali Mohammad, and the head quarters of the Debeni, who take hereditary share in the waters of the valley with their brethren the Wdema. It forms, more over, a place of resort for every wandering vagabond in the surrounding country who possess a sheep, a goat, or an ox, or has the abiHty and the inclination to assert his privilege of erecting a temporary cabin ; and thus the recurrence pf each season of drought, compelling the abandon ment of less favoured pastures, pours in its migratory swarm to swell the more permanent muster upon the sultry plains of Error, and to create the strife inseparable from a gathering of these lawless hordes. , The route on the 9th led across the flat of Halikdiggi Kabir, a con tinuation of the Moolu plain, extending from the Azbdti and Ittoo ranges to the mountams AiuUoo and Abida. Twelve miles in breadth, it presents one monotonous alluvial level, treeless, but thickly covered with grass, interspersed with dwarf shrubs, and enlivened by herds of the elegant mhorr, amongst which the secretary bird occasionaUy strutted in native dignity. Baezas and zebras, too, were descried on the hills which bound the flat ; and a luckless leopard being detected in the act of steahng across the expanse, the savage group pursued like demons from every quarter, and having presently hooted and hunted the terrified animal into a bush, transfixed his carcass incontinently with thirty spears. The whole landscape was aHve during this animated scene, which scarcely occupied a minute ; and in due process of time the panting warriors rejoined the caravan, their necks, spears, and shields adorned with strips of the victim's tail, whilst he who by dint of superior wind and fleetness had drawn the first blood, was by his comrades pubHcly invested with the spotted spoils that he had won; The appearance of the party on their return, accompanied by a stray horseman who had fortuitously joined in the chase, gave birth in the bosom of the Ras to the -apprehension that the Ittoo Galla were descending upon the caravan. The ranks were accordingly closed, and the Europeans again took post i 2 112 major Harris's journey on the flank to be assailed, until a nearer approach revealed in the savage band the features of friends. A descent of thirty feet over a narrow tongue of land, led into the valley of Halik-diggi Zughir, styled by the Adaiel the Great Hawash— its breadth being about two and a half miles, and the bed a perfect level, covered with fine grass, on which grazed a troop of wild asses. Bounded throughout the serpentine progress by parallel banks of corresponding height and appearance, the hollow would seem to extend from the mountains of the Ittoo Galla north to the Aiulloo volcano. It wears the aspect of having been once the channel of a considerable stream-— that of the Hawash perhaps, which river may not improbably have been di verted into its present course at the period when the extensive volcanic tract around Mount Abida was in a state of activity, and when subter ranean influence must have caused extraordinary revolutions in the entire aspect of the country. Mules, horses, and camels, in considerable numbers, were abandoned before the termination of this tedious and sultry march — fatigue, want of water, and lack of forage, having reduced aU to such positive skeletons that they walked with difficulty. Ascending three successive terraces, each of fifty feet elevation, the road finaUy wound into the confined and waterless valley of Hao, famous for the number of parties that have at various times been surprised and cut up by the neighbour ing Galla. From the summit of the height was obtained an exhilarating pros pect over the dark lone valley of the long-looked-for Hawash. The course of the shining river was marked by a dense belt of trees and verdure, which stretches towards the base of the great mountain range, whereof the cloud-capped conp that frowns over the capital of Shoa forms the most conspicuous feature. Although stfll far distant, the ultimate destination of the Embassy seemed almost to have been gained; and none had an idea of the length of time that must elapse ere his foot should press the soil of Ankdber. A day of intense heat was as usual followed by a heavy faU of rain, which, owing to the unaccommodating arrangement again peremptorily exacted, of striking the tent-at sunset, thoroughly drenched the whole party; but before finaUy drawing the mat over his sleepy head, the Ras el Kafilah mounted a cone which stood in the centre of the compact circle, and proclaimed in a loud voice to all, a night of Hght sleep and watchfulness. Numerous were the apprehensions now in agitation relative to the state of the formidable river in advance, whose shallow stream so easily forded during the season of drought, was not unreasonably conjectured to be swoUen by the recent rains. Second of the rivers of Abyssinia, and rising in the very heart of ^Ethiopia, at an elevation of eight thousand feet above the sea, which it never reaches, the Hawash is fed at long intervals by niggard tributaries from the high bulwarks of Shoa and Efat, and flows Hke a great artery through the arid and inhospitable plains of the Adaiel, green and wooded throughout its long course, until finally absorbed in the lagoons at Aussa; and the canopy of fleecy clouds, which, as the day dawned, hung thick and heavy over the lotty blue peaks beyond, gave sad presage of the deluge that was pouring between the verdant banks from the higher regions of its source. Passing along the face of the murderous hill, which is of waoke for mation, the road descended by several sloping terraces, to the level valley through which the river winds. At first thinly wooded, the soil was covered with tall rank grass, which, in consequence of the per petual incursions of the Galla, grew in all its native luxuriance, un- FROM TAJURREH TO ANKOBAR. 113 cropped, wbether by flock or herd. But as the path wound on, gum bearing acacias and other forest trees increased both in size and number — the jungle and undergrowth, teeming with guinea-fowl, which rose clamorously at every step, waxed thicker and thicker— groves of waving tamarisk, ringing to the voice of the bell-bird, flanked every open glade, whereon lay traces of recent inundation ; and the noble trees which towered above them from the banks of the Hawash, gave evidence in their shattered branches of the presence of the most ponderous of terrestrial mammaha, Vegetation having here assumed a luxuriance known to none of the joyless and unproductive regions hitherto traversed, it is with some difficulty that the pngrim, anxious to behold the rare phenomenon of a, running stream, forces his way through the dense thickets, which, until the foot touches the very brink of the precipitous bank, so completely screen thp silent piver .from view, that its very existence might almost be questioned. But after a persevering struggle, further progress was at length arrested by a deep volume of turbid water, covered with drift-wood, which roHed at the rate of some three miles an hour, be^ tween steep clayey walls twenty-Aye feet in height, bounding a mere break through the mud and sand. The breadth of the channel fell short of sixty yards* and the flood was not yet at its maximum ; but its depth, and violence, added to the broad belt, of tamarisk and acacia,, interlaced by large creepers and parasites, which hems in both sides, promised to offer much difficulty and delay in the coming passage. Pensive willows that drooped mournfully over the troubled current were festooned with recent drift, hanging many feet above the level of the abrupt banks ; and this appearance, no less than the rubbish scatterjpd oyer the borders, fully proved the assertion of the natives that the water had recently been out, to the overflowing of the adjacent flat country for many miles. The Hawash, here upwards of two thousand two hundred feet, above the ocean, forms in this direction the nominal boundary of the dominions of the King of Shoa. The rest of the day was devoted by the camel-drivers for the prepara tion of rafts for the transport of the baggage. At sun-down the caravan was closely packed within a stout thorn fence, serving as a partial protection against the wild beasts and plunderers with which the dense thiekpt is infested — its endless depths being so entangled and interwoven that no eye could penetrate the gloom, . The moonless night was passed in extreme discomfort, owing tp $ deluge of rain which commenced early, and fell incessantly for many hours. Deafening thunder pealed in startling claps overhead, and brbad sheets of fire lighting up the entire face of the landscape at short intervals, for a moment only disclosed the Savage loneliness of the wild spot, which was the next instant shrouded in pitchy dark ness.. With the dawning day, preparations were commenced for crossing the liver on ten frail rafts which had already been lannehed^transverse layers of drift-wood rudely lashed together, being rendered sufficiently buoyant by the addition of numerous inflated hides and water-skins", to support two camel loads. The sharp creeses of the . Danakil had removed many of the overtopping boughs, interlaced , with creepers, which impeded transit towards the point selected for the passage, ancl in the course of a few hours every portion Pf the baggage had been deposited at the Water's edge. _, Casting off his garments, Mohammad Ali, always the foremost in 114 MAJOR HARRIS'S JOURNEY cases of difficulty and danger, now seized the end of a rope betwixt his teeth, and, plunging into the river, swam with it to the opposite bank, where it was belayed, upon the principle of the flying' bridge, to an overhanging willow — a guy which connected it with each raft serving to counteract the violence of the stream, which, in spite of the heavy rain, had fallen upwards of a foot during the night. Raiment was now discarded by every Danakil, and the work commenced in right earnest, but difficult and laborious indeed was the task before them. Bidding adieu with light hearts to the muddy Hawash, the party resumed its march so soon as the camel furniture had become sufficiently dry ; and skirting the Dubbelli lake, from the waters of which Behemoth bleW a parting sahite, passed the Bedouin hamlet of Mulku-kuyu in the Ddfah district, to a fourth pond bearing the euphonous title of AilabeUo. Prettily situated in a secluded green hoUow, and presenting about the same circumference as its neighbour, below which it is considerably depressed, this pool resembles a circular waUed cistern, and is obviously the basin of an old crater. Its waters, alkaline, bitter, and strongly sulphureous even to the smeU, receive constant accessions from a hot mineral weU at the brink, and possessing the singular detergent pro perty of bleaching the filthiest cloth, many of the Danakil were for once to be seen in flaunting white togas. Thence the road lay over a grassy plain, covered with volcanic sand and ashes, and shut in by cones of trivial altitude, forming another field of extinct craters, many very perfect, and each environed by its individual zone — whilst the circumjacent country, embracing a diameter of eight miles, exhibited through the superincumbent soil, tracts of jet black lava. Apprehensions being entertained of the non-existence of pools at the station suited for the encampment, still some miles in advance, a detour was made from the main road to Le Ado, "the White Water," a very extensive lake, at which the skins were replenished and the thirst of the animals slaked. A belt of high acacia jungle embosomed this noble expanse, which exceeded two miles in diameter, the glassy surface in parts verdant with sheets of the lotus in full flower, and HteraUy covered with aquatic fowls. Geese, maUard, whistHng teal, herons, and flamingoes, with a new species of the parra, were screaming in aU directions as they winged their flight from the point invaded, where a party of Bedouin shepherdesses deposed to having seen a troop of elephants bathing not half an hour before — the numerous prints of their colossal feet remaining in testimony, sunk fresh and heavy on the moist sands. Prior to crossing the Hawash, the only sheep observed were 'the Ovis aries laticaudata, or Hejaz lamb, with sable head and neck, thick fatty tail, and fleece composed of hair instead of wool. This species had now, to the westward of the river, given place to the larger Abyssinian breed, with huge pendulous appendages of truly prepos terous size, encumbered with fat, and vibrating to the animal's progress. Parti- coloured goats, armed with long wrinkled horns, still diversified the flocks, which were uniformly attended by small dogs with fox-like heads, spotted yeUow and white, and evidently high in favour with their dark mistresses. Numerous wigwams peeped through the extensive forest of aged camel-thorns, which borders on Le Ado, and eventuaHy debouches upon a succession of barren plains covered with herds of antelope. Two rough stone enclosures by the wayside were surmounted by poles, from which dangled the heads of many Hons, dilapidated by time, although still enveloped in the skin, and said to have been speared on FROM TAJURREH TO ANKOBAR. 115 this spot many years before by the Bedouins, who exalted these trophies in commemoration of the deed. Immediately beyond this point lay the encamping ground at Wady Azbdti, where numerous shaUow pools had been filled by the recent rain, but where the ill-starred cattle were compelled to content them selves with water only, not a vestige of grass or green herb remaining in the vicinity. It had, in fact, now become a proverb, that these two essential materials to existence could never be found in the Adel wilder ness in one and the same place. Vast flights of locusts, which had assisted to lay the country bare, stiU carrying desolation in their pro gress, were shaping their destructive course towards Abyssinia. They quite darkened the air at the moment that the caravan halted ; and a host of voracious adjutants wheeled high above the dense cloud, at one moment bursting with meteor-like velocity through the serried phalanx, and at the next stalking over the field to fill their capacious maws with the victims which their long scythe-fashioned pinions had swept incon tinently from, the sky. The groves around Azbdti afforded a welcome supply of bustard, partridges, and guinea-fowl, together with the mhorr, and pigmy antelope. Rising tier above tier to the supremely soaring peak of Mamrat, " the Mother of Grace," with her doomed head ever canopied in clouds, the lofty mountains which fortify the royal dominions now shot like giant castles from the sandy plain, the most conspicuous features in the landscape. Volcanic impediments, such as had beset the heretofore weary path, had at length finally ceased, but the glowing sulphur hiUs of SuHala reared their fantastic spires on the verge of the monptonuso expanse ; and high among the moie venerable witnesses to the history of the troubled lowlands, the position of Ankdber was discernible to the naked eye, with the steep Chaka range stretching beyond at stiU greater elevation. The luxuriant verdure which clothed the rugged sides of the nearer slopes, whilst it contrasted strongly with the aridity of. the barren tracts at their base, indicated the presence of the autumnal rains ; and hereof further evidence was afforded in the low grumbling of frequent thunder, echoing like distant artillery among the serrated summits, as the heavy black clouds at intervals drew their smoky mantle across the scene, and veiled the monsters from sight. The departure of the silent spy was foUowed by the arrival of a most boisterous visiter from the highlands. The hazy sun, shorn of his bright beams, and looming a duU fiery globe in the dense mist, had no sooner disappeared in wrath, than a furious whirlwind tore along -the desert plain, and during the gloomy twilight, the storm, which had been cradled amid the mighty mountains, descended in desolation, like an angry giant from his keep. Black masses of cloud, rolling impetuously along the steep acclivi ties, settled at length over the face of- the waste, for a time shrouding the very earth in its dark dank embrace, only to render more striking the contrast to the dazzling light which in another moment had suc ceeded. Brilliant corruscations blazed and scintillated in every quarter of the fervid heavens, hissing and spluttering through the heavy fog, or darting like fiery serpents along the surface of the ground — at one instant awfuUy revealing the towering peaks that frowned far in the distance — at the next flashing in a hot sulphury flame through the centre of the encampment. Meanwhile the deep roH of thunder continued without a moment's intermission, the prolonged growl of each startling clap varying ever as H6 MAJOR HARRIS'S JOUBNET it receeded in a fitful change of intonation ; wtnfet the wailing of the blast, accompanied by the sharp rattle of hail, and the impetuous descent of torrents of rain, completed the horrors of a tempest /which, now at its height, careered madly over the unbroken plain. The soil had soon swaUowed the deluge to overflowing. Muddy rivulets poured through every qurrter of the flooded bivouac; and the heavy tar paulins, which had afforded some temporary shelter, proving of Httle further avail, the shivering but stiH watchful party were exposed during many dismal hours that ensued to aU the merciless fury of this unap peasable hurricane. A cpol cloudy morning succeeding to this dreary, boisterous and un comfortable night, the caravan was in motion before sunrise across the uninteresting plain of Azbdti, in parts completely swamped, and covered towards its borders with one interminable sheet of the aloe and Klium, growing beneath spreading acacias upon a graveUy soil. Then com menced a belt of hammocks, formed by prominences abutting from the high land of Abyssinia, — a succession of :hiH and daje, thickly wooded with a variety of timber, and still Clothed with an undergrowth of the wild aloe, through which wary herds of Baeza threaded their way. The road soon entered the pebbly bed of a mountain stream, running easterly between precipitous basaltic cliffs towards the Hawash; but although such torrents of rain had fallen the preceding night, no water was discovered in the wooded wady pf Kokai, until reaching Dathara, nearly thirteen miles from the last encampment, where the party par„ took pf the first crystal brook that , had occurred during the entire weary journey from the sea-coast. Three thousand feet above thp ocean, with an invigorating breeze and a cloudy sky, the climate of this principal pass into Southern Abyssinia, was that of a fine summer's day in England, rather than of the middle of July between the tropics. Here for the first time during the pilgrimage, the tent was erected under the shade of a wide-spreading tamarind, which, among many other trees of noble growth, graced the sequestered spot. Above the surrounding foHage the long white roofs of many of the royal magazines were visible, perched high on the blue mountain side. But from the summit of an adjacent basaltic knoll, which was ascended towards the close of day, there burst upon the deHghted gaze a prospect more than ever aUuring of the Abyssinian Alps. Hill rose above hill, clothed in the most luxuriant and vigorous vegetation. Mountain towered over mountain in a smiling chaos of disorder ; and the soaring peaks of the most remote range threw their hoary heads* sparkling with a. white mantle of hail, far into the cold azure sky. ViUages and ham lets embosomed in dark groves of evergreens were grouped in Arcadian repose. Rich fields of every hue chequered the deep lone valley ; and the Sun, bidding a diurnal farewell to his much-loved plains of the east, shot a last stream of golden light, varied as the hues of the Iris, over the mingled beauties of wild woodland scenery, and the labours of the Christian husbandmen. Gradually ascending through a hilly and well- wooded country, still a positive garden of the wild aloe, the road now led through a succession of deep glades, which opened in turn upon verdant mountain scenery ; and at an early hour, after the first signs of cultivation had been afforded in the truly grateful sight of ploughs turning up the soil, the tents were erected on the open plain of Dinomali. At this, the frontier station of Argdbba, are levied the royal import duties of ten per cent. ; and a scene of noise, bustle, and opnfaekm did FROM TAJURREH TO ANKOBAR. 117 not fail to ensue, such as is wont to attend the arrival of every caravan. Loaded for the thirty-fifth and last time with the baggage of the British Embassy, the caravan, escorted by the detachment of Ayto Katama, with flutes playing and muskets echoing, and the heads of the warriors decorated with white plumes, in earnest of their bold exploits during the late expedition, advanced on the afternoon of the 16th of July, to Farri, the frontier town of the kingdom of Efat. Clusters of conical-roofed houses, covering the sloping sides of twin hills which form a gorge wherein the royal dues are deposited, here presented the first permanent habitations that had greeted the eye since leaving the sea-coast ; rude and ungainly, but right welcome signs of transition from depopulated wastes to the abodes of man. As well from the steepness of the rugged mountains of Abyssinia, which towered overhead, as from the pinching climate of their wintry summits, the camel becomes useless as a beast of burden; and none being ever taken beyond the frontier, many of the Wulasma?s retinue now gazed at the ungainly quadrupeds for the first time. Having thus happily shaken the Adel dust from off the feet, and taken affectionate leave of the greasy Danakil, it is not a Httle pleasant to bid adieu also to their scorching plains of unblessed sterility. Every change in the soil and climate of Africa is in extremes, and barrenness and unbounded fortuity border on each other with a suddenness whereof the denizens of temperate climes can form no conception. As if by the touch of the magician's wand, the scene now passes in an instant from parched and arid waste to the green and lovely highlands of Abyssinia*, presenting one sheet of rich and thriving cultivation. Each fertile knoU is crowned with its peaceful hamlet— each rural vale' traversed by its crystal brook, and teeming with herds and flocks. The cool moun tain zephyr is redolent of eglantine and jasmine, and the soft green turf, spangled with clover, daisies, and buttercups, yields at every step the aromatic fragrance of the mint and thyme. The baggage having at length been consigned to the shoulders of six hundred grumbling Moslem porters, assembled by the royal fiat from the adjacent villages, and who, now on the road, formed a line which extended upwards of a mile, the Embassy, on the morning of the 17th, commenced the ascent of the Abyssinian Alps. It was a cool and lovely morning, and a fresh invigorating breeze played over the mountain side, on which, though less than ten degrees removed from the equator, flourished the vegetation of northern climes. The rough and stony road wound on by a steep ascent over hill and dale — now skirting the extreme verge of a precipitous cliff — now dip ping into the basin of some verdant hoUow, whence, after traversing the pebbly course of a murmuring brook, it suddenly emerged into a succession of shady lanes, bounded by flowering hedge-rows. At various turns of the road the prospect was rugged, wild and beautiful. Aigibbi, the first Christian viUage of Efat, was soon re vealed on the summit of a height, where, within an enclosure of thorns, rest the remains of a traveUer, who not long, before had closed his eyes on the threshold of the kingdom, a victim to the pestilential sky of the lowlands. Three principal ranges were next crossed in succession, severaUy intersected by rivulets which are aU tributary to the Hawash, although the waters are for the most part absorbed before they reach that stream. Lastly, the view opened upon the wooded site of Ankdber, occupying a central position in a horse-shoe crescent of mountains, Still high above, which enclosed a magnificent amphitheatr* of ten miles in 118 D'HERIOOURT'S SECOND VOYAGE INTO ABYSSINIA diameter. This is clothed throughout with a splendidly varied and vigorous vegetation, and choked by minor abutments, converging towards its gorge on the confines of the Adel plains. D'HERICOURT'S SECOND VOYAGE INTO ABYSSINIA FROM TAJURREH TO SHOA, SEPTEMBER AND OCTOBER, 1842. (marked X on Map, page 39.) The party started on 15th September, from Ambabo, about 10 miles to the west of Tajurreh. They passed the first night at DoulouUe, 3 leagues to the south of Ambabo, where there are three wells of brackish. water. The party consisted of 60 men and 150 camels. The traveUer says,—" I indicated in the relation of my first voyage the different stages pf the road traversed by the caravans, from the Indian Ocean to the kingdom of Shoa. I will not give again the detailed nomenclature which the interests of geography obHged me to give in my first journey, and which would only be a tedious repetition. Nobody will be astonished besides at my experiencing in retracing the circum stances of my first journey into the country of Adel, a sort of aftertaste of the discomfort which I experienced on the road. I think I may say, without being accused of exaggerating the difficulties of my works, in order to enhance their merits, that there are few journeys more fatiguing to mind and body, more perilous, and at the same time more monoto nous, than that across the deserts o£ the Adels. Major Harris, one of the most experienced African travellers, has preserved a similar impres sion, and has described it in vivid but accurate colours. When I met him afterwards in Shoa, he could not disguise his astonishment when I told him that I had attempted, alone and for the second time, an expe* dition so Httle attractive. In other countries, at least, the magnificence of nature compensates for perils and fatigues ; nature itself makes the desert of the Adels the most frightful residence. The country of the Adels, which is traversed in going from the Indian Ocean to Shoa, and which, descending from north-east to south-west, has a length of 130 leagues, which take a month to traverse, — this country is hilly, tossed about by volcanic action in an incredible manner. In no part of the world are there so many extinct craters, so great a flow of lava. No fertilising water traverses the burning gorges of this country, ravaged by subterraneous fires, and burned up by a tropical sun. There is little majesty or beauty in these mountains, but only a uniform mediocrity : almost always gently sloping hiUs with extinct craters, from which thick beds of lava have flown." On quitting DoulouUe the road leads for some time along the shore of the gulf; then, leaving the sea, it enters a gorge between the almost vertical sides of the mountains. The pathway then narrows, and is very tortuous and rocky. After traversing a little plateau, a still more arid and difficult gorge is entered. Blocks of trachyte and basalt bruise at every instant the camel's feet. Soon the animals were obHged FROM TAJURREH TO SHOA. 119 to pass in single file, and the ascents became so steep, that it was with difficulty they could surmount it. One broke its leg. They arrived at the banks of the Salt Lake, Mel el Assal, which is a source of great riches to the Danahil, from its salt. The spectacle of this dead sea, slowly thickening and soHdifying, is a frightful spectacle under a burning sky. The lake is 217 metres below the level of the sea. They remained there two days, whilst the Bedouins loaded their camels with salt. The first station on leaving the valley was near the source of the brackish waters of Gongonta, at the entrance of a narrow gorge of distorted rocks. Here they found the tombs of the soldiers murdered in Harris's journey. From Gongonta they went to AUouH. From this place to Gaubade they traversed a frightful country, where they were often in want of water. At Gaubade this necessary never fails. They remained there two days to rest the camels. On the 9th October they arrived at Omar Goulouf, 11 leagues from Gaubade. They had had no rain since quitting Ambabo. On the 12th October they resumed their journey, and arrived with out accident at Kilalou, about 15 leagues from Omar Goulouf. Here they were met by Bedouins, who told them there was no more water on the road, as far as Marc-le-Petit, 24 leagues distant. The heat con tinued intense. They remained a day at Kilalou to rest the camels, and let them drink their fiU at the little stream, the first they had met since leaving the sea, and the waters of which were at their height, caused, the author thinks, not by local rains, but by the overflow of Lake Aoussa. They replenished their water at Kilalou, and left at six o'clock in the evening, marching at night only, on account of the heat. On the morning of the 4th day they reached Maro-le Petit. Here a sight, animated but saddening, presented itself. The reservoir of Maro-le-Petit is an immense basin, a half league in circumference, formed by the junction of all the rain fall of the neighbouring valleys. Many hundred Adels, who had come from all parts for 8 leagues round, were watering their flocks. There were more than 50,000 head of cattle ; camels, oxen, sheep, and goats. The thirsty animals rushed into the lake, and disputed with the women the muddy, green, stag- . nant water. The next day they reached Maro-le- Grand. Here there is a natural basin, which is filled in the rainy season with water, which lasts until the next rainy season. They encamped next day at Bordouda. Here they were only three days distant from the great River Aouache (Habesh) which forms the boundary of the territory of the Adels. They soon entered on a much more fertile country, consisting of a rich plain, carpeted with a virgin vegetation. The mountains of Choa here became visible, and traces of ' elephants were found. The Aouache is a rapid river, its bed being 50 to 60 metres broad. It often overflows its banks, which are covered with a rich vegetation and magnificent trees, and abound with lions, leopards, panthers, elephants, hippopotami, zebras, antelopes, deer, gazelles, &c. They took several days to cross it. Soon after crossing the stream they met with Httle lakes, named Leado, abounding in crocodiles and hippopotami. Four days after leaving the Aouache they reached the frontier of Shoa, at Denemali, and proceeded to Angolola, where the King was residing. 1$6 MESSRS. ISteNBERGt AND tRApPg ROUTE The foUowing Was the temperature near the River Aouache (Hawash), on the 25th October, 1842 :— 8 a.m. 71 degrees. Noon.. 80 degrees. 9 „ 73 „ 1 p.m. 82 „ 10 „ 79 „ 2 „ 82 „ 11 „ 79 „ 3 „ 84 „ And on the Salt Lake, 23 miles south-west of Tajurra, on the 13th September, 1842 :— 9 a.m. 95 degrees. Noon 101 degrees. 10 a.m. 98 „ 1 p.m. 104 11 am. 99 MESSRS. ISENBERG AND KRAPF'S ROUTE FROM TAJUR- REH TO ANKOBAR, IN APRIL AND MAY, 1839. (Marked X on Map, page 39). On the 26th of April they left Tajurreh, where they had been detained 20 days, partly by their guide's illness, and partly by exorbitant demands for the hire of their camels. They at last agreed to pay 17 dollars for each camel, 25 dollars, the price of a female slave, having been demanded ; and fifty dollars to Mohammed 'All, their guide, Who had modestly asked 300. Tp his friend and assistant, the Arab 'All, they gave 15 dollars. The distance was calculated at 140 liottrs (about 330 miles) . They Had four camels for their baggage, and a mule for their own tise. The whole journey, which they hoped to perform in 14 or 15 days, took up 36, and was very fatiguing. As the Danakil are migratory, there are few villages between Tajurreh and Shwa, or rather Ffat ; for by that name only is the King of Shwa's territory known at Tajurreh ; but there are above 50 resting-places, where the caravans usually halt Their first journey carried them to Anbabo, on the shore of the bay (Ghubbat-el Kharab), about 4 mites W.S.W. from Tajurreh. The sea here runs up a good way inland, and forms a natural boundary between the Danakil and the Sdmayil or Spinalis. On the 27th they passed through Dullul and Sukta to SagaUo, abont 9 miles from Anbabo. These are merely watering-places in a stony, sandy, uninhabited tract, overgrown with dWarf acacias, abounding in birds, but little infested by beasts of prey. Sunday, 28th April. — Having been detained by the want of a strayed camel, they could not proceed till the afternoon : their road lay through a very sandy and stony tract, overgrown with dwarf acacias and fre quented by a diminutive sort of gazeUe, called in Arabic Benf Israyil, and by hares, the only kind of game found there. This country is by no means deficient in water : at Tajurreh there is a waUed cistern : on their road to this place there are spots where the traveller lias but to dig a hole in the ground and he finds water. Its quality of course depends on the nature of the soil: and it has a reddish colour , and unpleasantly bitter taste, which is made still worse by a certain herb FROM TAJURREH TO ANKOBAR. 121 which is put into their ill- tanned skins. The Danakil of this tract have many peculiarities : they are of the same race as the Shohos, and" differ from them but little either in their language or features : but they are more civilised in their demeanour, and perhaps more intelligent. When they salute each other or conversp together, the person addressed usuafly repects every sentence spoken to him, or at least the last word, which is generally abbreviated, and sometimes the last syllable only is repeated, or attention is shown by a hem in answer to every sentence. They are besotted Mahommedans, and in general very ignorant. Even the women while grinding, usually chant the words of their creed, "La Ilah, illa-llah," &c, of verses of a religious cast. Their mills are much used like those used on board of Arab vessels. The women do not Hve much more apart from the men than in Abyssinia, nor, as it is said, is their conduot much more correct. Monday, 29th. — They left Sagallo at midnight, and for half an hour traveUed along the sea coast in a direction due W., then turning to the NW. began to ascend an eminence, and passing the defile called Ankyefero, after a further ascent, reached the station of Der Kelle, and at length a table-land called Wardelihan, which afforded an extensive view over the bay and the Dankali country inland. They then travelled westward till they arrived at a spot where a few low acacias were growing at 7h. 45m. P.M., and alighted there to pass the night. On estimating their rate of travelling during the 7f hours, including their halts, they calculated the whole distance at a 4 hours' journey. During their ascent, they breathed a cool air, but on reaching the table-land, although the sun had only been up a short time, the heat grew very oppressive, having been increased by a S.E. wind. The plain Was covered with volcanic stones. Tuesday, 80th. — This morning they started at 3 o'clock, and de scended in a south-western and southern direction through a narrow ravine, caHed Raizan, which it was very laborious for the camels to pass. This brought them to the western end of the bay of "Tajurreh, which* after forcing its way in a narrow channel through the mountains, here terminates in a second bay. From Wardelihan to this point, they had travelled for the distance of about 1-J hour ; which makes the distance from.the point where they left the sea-shore to Wardelihan 5 hours;" so that making allowance for the windings in the road, the distance in a direct line from the spot where they left the shore to the end of the bayj is probably about 3 hours. From the end of the pass they asCended again and came to another table-land, where ashes, lava and calcined stones still more evidently show the volcanic character of the country. After proceeding for another hour in a western direction, they came in sight of the salt lake Asal, in a valley in front .of them ; and at 8 6'cldck encamped at the caravanserai' of Daferri, on the decHvity of a hill. In consequence of the excessive heat and want of water, their earavan Started at 3 o'clock in the afternoon, and began to move in a south-westerly direction round the lake ; but owing to the ruggedness of the ground, they were obHged to follow a very zigzag and irregular course." After Grossing the valley of Marmoriso, where the caravans sometimes halt, they came to an ' eminence called Muya, whence they descended a deep declivity, and reached the valley bearing the same name, at 7 o'clock. Wednesday, 1st May. ^-From Muya they set off at half-past 1 A.M., and first reached a' rather elevated plain, named Halaksitan (Halak- sheftaan F) . On account of the ruggedness of the ground, full of chasms and gulfs, the vestiges" of volcanic agency, they sought to '.' get 122 MESSRS. ISENBERG AND KRAPF*S ROUTE round the lake Asal towards the S., in a semi-circle. To effect this they had to round some mountains S. of the lake, and arrived at a resting-place at its southern extremity ; but as there' was no water, the caravan thought it better not to stop. They next descended to the lake, the shores of which are covered with a thick salt crust, having the appearance of ice. To this place caravans resort for salt to carry it to Habesh, of which trade the Danakil make a monopoly, claiming the right to take salt from hence as their exclusive privilege. The lake is nearly oval, its length from N. to S. about 2 hours, and its greatest breadth from E. to W. perhaps 1 hour. It is about 2 hours distant in a direct line from the western end of the bay at Tajurrah. After leaving the lake the caravan entered a valley towards the W., which ran between moderately high mountains, first westward, then S.W., and at 10 o'clock they alighted at a halting-place called Gwagate, where there is water. Thursday, 2nd. — On this morning they did not set off till sunrise, at £ past 5. Their road ran first W., then S. and S.W., through the valley of Kallu, which by its abundance of water and verdure, strongly brought to their recollection the valley of Samhar, but its mountains are higher and more thickly wooded. Towards |- past 8 they arrived at their halting-place Alluli, after having traveHed over a distance of 2 hours. This evening 'All, the Arab, informed them that the principal Danakil tribes between Tajurreh and Shwa are these : Debenik Wema, Mudaitu, 'Adali, Bukharto and Dinsarra ; to the last of which the Vezi'r, and to the last but one, the Sultan of Tajurrah belongs. The Debenik Wema and Mudaitu are the most numerous, and the latter is perhaps the most powerful of these tribes (Kabayil). They extend from Musawwa' to A'usa, which is their head-quarters. There a Naib (Deputy) of the Sultan resides ; and between that place and the valley of Kallu, the road from ^Tajurreh to Ank6ber passes through their country. They were then at peace with the rest of the Danakil, though ill-inclined towards the Debenik W6ma, who some years ago got the mastery over them by the assistance of 400 Bedwins brought over from 'Aden. This did not put a stop to the trade in salt between Shwa and Tajurreh ; for the traders from that place went right to the Lake Asal, got a stock of salt, returned to Tajurreh, and proceeded through the Somali country on the confines of Harrar to Shwa. Friday, 3rd. — At 3 o'clock a.m. they continued their course, first westward, then for a short time to the N.W., then again W. and S.W., through barren valleys, till they emerged into a vast plain caUed Ander- hadideba, which separates two ridges of mountains. The soil for the first £ hour's march over this plain appeared to be good, but produced nothing, the ground being broken up ; afterwards, however, it was fertile, overgrown with shrubs, especially juniper. Towards 7 a.m. they come to an open spot caUed Gagade, where they rested for the night. Near them was a Mudaitu's tent, which was very low, and hedged round with brambles, according to the custom of the country. Saturday, Mh. — They left Gagade at half-past 1 a.m. A part of their caravan had already separated from them, in order to go to A'usa, and the remainder travelled very slowly on account of the weakness of their camels : their servants and one of the missionaries always went on foot ; the former because the camels could no longer carry them, the latter because he had no mule. Their direction was westwards till they reached the resting-place of Karautu, where the road to A'usa branches off towards theW. From Karautu their course lay southwards, between . mountains showing signs of volcanic action, with scarcely any vegeta- FROM TAJURREH TO ANKOBAR. 128 tion. La the valleys only were grass and brushwood seen, and even here the ground was covered with ashes. They soon afterwards entered a long glen, where they saw many date-trees, which seem to be quite neglected. The Bedwi'ns cut off their tops, in order to collect the juice which flows from them, and is said to be intoxicating. At 8 p.m. they arrived at Dalalai, a Dankali settlement, where they rested, not having made in the last 6 J- hours more tharfS hours' way. The Danakil, espe- ciaUy their women, when travelhng, employ themselves chiefly in plaiting mats and baskets of palm-leaves, to hold salt and grain. Their women, who seem to be industrious, are very slovenly in their dress, and fre quently wear nothing but a strip of blue or party-coloured cloth bound round their loins, and reaching down to their knees ; they sometimes, also, wear a fancifully wrought belt or girdle. Notwithstanding this, they are vain and fond of wearing bracelets, anklets, ear and nose-rings, coral necklaces, and other finery. Sunday, 5th. — They started at 3 o'clock AM., and moved in a S.W. direction through the vale of Kurri to Saggadere, and thence to Little Marha, which they reached at 7 a.m., having passed over a distance of 2£ hours in 3£. Their two servants were suffering from illness and fatigue because they could not ride. At 3h. 45m. they quitted Little Marha, and after moving along the vaUey almost westwards, ascended a very stony hill about 300 feet high, and then took a more southerly direction to a halting-place on the table-land, which they reached at 6h. 45m. p.m., having traveUed over a distance of about If hour (5 miles) in 3 hours. In the evening a hot wind blew, and the ground beneath them, as they lay stretched upon it, »glowed almost like an oven. Monday, 6th. — They set off at £-past 3 a.m., and marched, stumbHng over the stony table-land, tiU they descended, and passed through a ravine near the halting-place of Galamo, where they found afewBedwin huts. Their general route was southerly, and having crossed a hill they came into another vaUey, where they would have halted, had they not been encouraged to pursue their journey by a cloudy sky, which sheltered them from the sun. From Adaito they passed over a grassy plain in which there were deer and antelopes. After this the road soon led again over a hiH commanding an extensive prospect. Further on they entered the vale of Ramudeli, where they encamped. , They reached it at J-past 8 a.m., having made scarcely 3 hours' way in 5 hours' march. Tuesday, 7th. — At £-past 3 a.m. they left RamudeH; at 5 o'clock passed by Abu Yiisuf, and at about ^-past 8 a.m. reached Gdbad. At 3 p.m. they left that place, passed through Sarkal and by a spot where there is a spring, and arrived at Arabdera at about 8 in the evening. The distance between RamudeH and Gdbad may be about 3 hours, and it is nearly the same between Gdbad and Arabdera. Wednesday, 8th. — They. left Arabdera at 3 A.M. It is situated on a vast elevated plain, almost entirely covered with volcanic stones. Just before sunrise, they came to a low but extensive plain, where they saw some wild asses grazing, which took to their heels on their approach. At 10 A.M. they reached their resting-place, Daunileka, where their camel-drivers dressed a wild ass which they had killed. In these 7 hours they only made about 4 hours' way. There were this day. some idle reports of a projected attack by a hostile tribe called Galeila, for merly repressed by the more powerfol Wema. . Thursday, 9th. — They started at sunrise i before -6, and after a short march on the plain westwards, ascended a pretty high eminence called 124 MESSRS. ISENBERG AND KRAPF*S ROUTE Mari, southwards, and at £-past 10 a.m. reached their encamping-place on the table-land. The air grew more and more cool and refreshing as they ascended, but they felt rather fatigued when they reached the plain. At 3h. 20m. p.m. they set out from their halting.place Mount Mari, and descended a low terrace, then marched on a wide undulating but elevated plain, over loose stones, without any vestige of a path, their guides being at a great distance in front, till after sunset they reached a declivity, the descent of which was not a little dangerous. Several times the camels could hardly move forward, terrified by the dismal abyss on the right, while the darkness of the night rendered the path under their feet almost undiscernible. At length they reached a pro jection at the foot of the mountain on its western side, and there halted on a stony spot, Where the Bedwins frequently confine their herds between walls of loose stones, to guard them from beasts of prey ; but they had neither fuel to light a fire nor. water to drink. Friday, 10th. — They started at a £ before 5 a.m., descended the re maining decHvity, and came to Ahuli, where there are four or five hot Springs, probably sulphureous ; there they took in water, and after a halt of about an hour, continued their course through a large plain, extending S.E. and N.W. : their route lay S.W. across the plain. They afterwards crossed a low eminence called Lukki, which is nearly flat on the top, and covered with a volcanic stones, as are most moun tains passed in this journey. After J- past 9 a.m. they came to a tree, heneath which they rested. From this spot there is an extensive prospect towards S.W. and W. ; the whole tract is nearly level, with the exception of some low hills in the neighbourhood, and two or three higher ones to the W. at a distance, which are the mountains of Argbbba and perhaps of Shwa. At 3 p.m. they left Lukki, and having ascended in a south-western direction to a grassy plain, marched till nearly 7 o'clock p.m., when they rested on a level spot in the plain of KiUele. Saturday, llth.-^— They started at 1 in the morning, in order to make a long journey this day ; but had not proceeded far, when they sunk into the mud, rain having fallen the day before, and softened the clayey soil. However, on turning as -far as practicable to the W., they soon reached a dry spot, and thence took a more northern course tfll they met with a new difficulty, and lay down to await day-break. At £-past 7 a.m. they set out again, first northwards, then N.W., and afterwards W. ; passed two large herds of fine cattle, found water of which they drank and fiHed their leathern bags, and after another hour's march, arrived at Barudega", where they rested under a tree till |-past 3 p.m., when they left Barudega, and pursuing a S.W. course through the plain, drew near a low ridge of mountains stretching S!E. and N.W. Towards 8 p.m. they came to a place which had trees, brushwood, and water, where they halted to pass the night, and for the first time saw a hyaana. At about -J-past 5 p.m. they set off for Gayel, the viUage of Mohammed 'All's uncle, which was only £ hour's distance from their halting-place. They were there informed that 'Adayil is the Arabic plural of 'AdaW, the name of one of the Dankalf tribes. It is that to which the Sultan of Tajurrah belongs ; and it generally encamps in the neighbourhood of Shwa ; but the greater part is dispersed over the adjoining cotinfries. It was formerly the most powerful of all, and gave its whole name to the whole territory it then occupied. The tribes apparently most pow erful at present, are the Muda'itus and the Debenik Wema. The former have their chief seat in A'usa, and are sometimes at war with the FROM TAJURREH TO ANKOBAR. 125 Wema- and the rest of the Danakil. They seem to be more numerous and powerful than any other Dankah' tribe : they call themselves 'Affar, the word Dankali being Arabic. Tuesday, Uih. — They set off from Gavel", and ascended an eminence about 2 hours distant in a S.W. direction, where they encamped near the watering-place of Alibakele, which supplies the herds of cattle belonging to the neighbouring Bedwins. Thursday y 16th. — At 3 p.m. they left Alibakele, where they had waited fqr the arrival of their guide's father, and ascending westwards, were in -J- an hour overtaken by a shower. After stopping till it was nearly over, they made their way with difficulty through the mud, and towards 7 p.m. arrived at a spot called Adaito, where they passed the night. In the evening they saw the mountains of Harrar to the S.W. covered with clouds ; the city of Harrar being distant only 2^ days' journey. They were then near the Alia Gallas, who had expelled Sheikh 'Ali Jabi from Erer, and extended their ravages as far as that district. Friday, 17th. — They started at about 7 a.m., and their course layover a stony but grassy plain, where they saw many herds and singing-birds. At -J-past 8 a.m. they reached Hasnadera, their halting-place, the resi dence of Sheikh 'AH, their guide Mahommed 'AH's father. The Wema Danakil have 100 Someli archers, originaUy prisoners taken in their wars with different Somali tribes : though- considered as incorporated with their masters, they still preserve their native language, and never intermarry with the Danakil, by whom they are employed, because that people is said to believe shooting with bows and arrows to be unlawful. Saturday, 18th. — This morning at J-pasfc 6 they set off from Little Hasnadera, and continuing their course S.W. over the plain which rose graduaUy, reached Great Hasnadera at ^-past 10 a.m., where they halted, but quitted it in the evening at 10 minutes before 6 p.m., and moving .westwards over very stony ground, reached Mullu at ¦J-past 8. This is nothing but a vast plain covered with stones, with a Httle verdure in patches, a few acacias, and hovels made of boughs here and there. As this was their guide's principal residence, they rested there tiH Tuesday, 21st, when they proceeded under the direction of Sheikh All, their guide's father, who thought it necessary to take an escort of his people, as he was apprehensive of the Mudaitus, through whose southern, and the Gallas, through whose northern, boundaries they must pass. They left MuUu about sunrise, and moving S.W. over a plain, arrived at -j^-past 9 a.m. at a place called Wadardarer, about 2\ hours distant from Mullu. There they rested till about -|-past 3 p.m., when they proceeded S.W., tiH 8 p.m., because Sheikh 'Ali said they could not reach the nearest water at Kudaiti that night. But on the foUowing morning, Wednesday, 22nd, they arrived there half an hour after they started, and took in a supply for themselves and their beasts. Proceeding onwards they soon reached the village of Kudaiti and alighted after they had passed it. In front of them to the N.W. were the Baadu and Ayalu Mountains, the latter being of a considerable height. To the S.W. was the Jebel Ahmar, or the mountains of the Gallas. Between them and that mountain was an undulating and nearly level country said to extend from the banks of the Hawash as far as Berberah. Thursday, 23rd. — They started about ^-past 5 a.m., and descended graduaUy in a south-western direction through the valley tiU -J-past 9, then rested under a large acacia near Metta, by the dry bed of a K 126 MESSRS. ISENBERG AND KRAPF'S ROUTE small brook, on the banks of which were many of those trees. The air was very hazy, and they saw many whirling columns of dust-like smoke from manufactories. They quitted their halting-place at -J-past 3 p.m., and marching almost due W. over the plain, passed by the village of Metta. After 7 p.m. reached that of Kummi, and about an hour later encamped near a deserted and ruined village of Bedwins, where there was no water, of which they were in want. Friday, 2Ath. — They set off at-^-past 5 a.m., and pursuing their course over the same plain W.S.W., saw at a little distance to the left Mount Afraba, which is joined westwards by the small mountain of Fresiz, and to the N.W. of it by mount Asaboti, all inhabited by I'sas ; to then' right the high land of Shwa, and I 'fat was visible. The plain on which they travelled terminated in a valley overgrown with grass and trees : there they passed a village inhabited by Debeniks, and gained an eminence. At about -J-past iO p.m. they reached the watering-place Gamnisa, whence the whole district takes its name, and there they found a caravan which left Tajurrah on the day of their arrival there, and had only reached this place the evening before. Saturday, 2oth. — They started this morning at 6 A.M., and moved nearly due W. over a fine plain full of grass and trees. At 9 they halted near the village of Little Mullu, surrounded by very luxuriant and gigantic grass, overtopping the head of a man on horseback. On this day they had a little elephant hunting. The country hereabouts swarms with wild beasts ; and the hide of a zebra was sold to them for five needles and a few grains of pepper. On Sunday, 26th, at 3 p.m. , they left Little Mullu, and crossing a large plain, first covered with high grass, and afterwards with scattered bushes, where they occasionally saw an elephant ; travelled till ^-past 8 p.m., and rested for the night at Berdude, still in the same extensive plain. While they were there, some chiefs of another tribe of Danakil, the Taki'l, came to beg for tobacco : this alarmed their guide, and made him hurry them on. The other Danakil tribes in that part of Abyssinia are the Debenis, west of the Wemas, who extend very far into the district of Gamnisa, on the borders of which are the Mashaikh and Gasoba, among whom the Taki'ls are dispersed. Monday, 27th. — They left Berdude at -J-past 5 a.m., and crossed the other part of the plain called Galakdiggi ; saw much game, especiaUy large deer, also two ostriches ; and a little before 9 a.m. arrived at a watering-place called Ganni, where they rested. Tuesday, 28th. — Having started at 10m. past 2 in the morning and marched westward over a barren part of the plain, they arrived at Great Galakdiggi ; and then they crossed- an eminence soon after sun rise, from whence the mountains of Shwa were clearly visible. From it they descended into the valley of Galakdiggi, and having crossed one of the hills which skirt the eastern side of the valley of the Hawash, they descended into the deep and wide valley of that river, which they had already seen from the eminence above, whence some parts of the course of the river could be traced. At the foot of the mountain the road lay through a forest of- acacias, from which the people of the caravan col lected a good deal of gum-arabic. They then encamped on a spot called Debhille, from the trees near which, on one side of the village, there hung nests of small birds, sometimes as many as forty or fifty on one tree. Wednesday, 29th. — At 1-past 4 a.m. they started, and pursuing a south-western course, reached the Hawash at ^-past 6 A.M., by a road winding through a fine forest abounding with plants and animals. The FROM TAJURREH TO ANKOBAR. 127 fresh tracks of elephants were often observed ; the braying of a zebra, and the snorting of hippopotami were also heard near the Hawash, but neither were seen. As they crossed the river, crowds of baboons were noticed on some of the trees, an animal not before seen in Habesh. This was near Melkukuyu ; and although it was in the dry season, the water was from 2 to 4 feet deep. The breadth of the channel is about 60 feet, and the height of its banks, as far as they could judge, averaged from 15 to 20 feet. Both sides are covered with beautiful forests, the breadth of which, however, is not hereabouts considerable. The river runs N. and N.E. They could not learn whereabouts its source is. The right bank is inhabited by the AUas, Ittus, and Mudaitus, and the left by the Danakil, who border on Shwa eastwards. From. hence where it has the Argobbas on one side and the Mudaitus on the other, it flows as far as A'usa, and there in an extensive plain forms a large lake, the water of which is said to be putrid, emitting an offensive smeU, and being disagreeable to the taste : on digging near the lake, however, good water is said to be found. The Ittus, on the eastern, not the western bank of the Hawash, as is marked erroneously in the maps, lay to the S. of the Missionaries' route, and further S. the Abarras join them, having the Alias and other Galla tribes still further southward. At noon they went to see a smaH lake W. of the Hawash, which is about -j a-mile long and \ mile broad. In it there were at least 100 hippor potami sporting about. They fired a few shots at them, after each of which they suddenly plunged into the water, and on coming up again blew a stream out of their nostrils like whales, and snorted like horses. There are also many crocodiles in this lake ; one 9 feet^long which lay in the water near the bank, was struck by their people : " a na turalist," they observe, "would have abundant employment in that neighbourhood. ' ' Thursday, 30th. — At J-past 4 a.m. they set off from Melkukuyu, and marched over a hilly track near a small lake, the water of which has a disagreeable taste and a sulphurous smell, and is beHeved by the natives to be peculiarly detergent. - The tract of country through which they had lately passed is called Dofar. After passing through several woods " abounding with game and enlivened by the notes of a great variety of birds, they reached a larger lake named Le-adu, at about 9 A.M., in which the hippopotamus is said to abound, but not one was then visible.. Thence proceeding westwards they alighted at about 11 a.m. at Assaboti, in a large sandy plain full of acacias. Setting out again at -|-past 3 p.m., they left the caravan behind, and encamped in the evening at Atkonsi, having by the way seen several baezas, a fine animal of the size of a cow, but shaped like a deer, with upright, not branching, horns : their flesh is exquisite. This tract is Hke a garden of cactuses. Friday, 31sl. — They started at |-past 4 a.m., and after sunrise entered a fine vaUey caUed Kokai, with lofty trees, excellent water, abundance of cattle, and a great variety of birds. After crossing several hills, the outskirts of the Abyssinian high lands, which extend from the S. far northwards, at about 8 a.m. they reached DinomaH, the frontier town of Shwa, where soon after their arrival they were visited by Soleiman Musa, collector of the customs, and Abbagaz Mohammed, governor of the confines, who came to inspect their persons and baggage. They were accompanied by Debtera Tekla Tsion, secretary for the salt trade. During this visit, Haji Adam, whom the Rev. Mr. Krapf had seen the year before at Mokha as a royal messenger, came in and said that he was on his way to Mokha, and had a letter and a female slave for them ; e 2 128 MESSRS. ISENBERO AXD KRAPF'S ROUTE, ETC. as ihc-y could not conscientiously accept the slave, she was sent back to Ankober. The letter expressed the king's wish for medicine, a gun, masons, &c, and if possible, the company of the Rev. Mr. Isenberg, to whom the letter was addressed. An answer was immediately returned to the king, and quarters were assigned to the Missionaries in the village of Farri, till the king's pleasure as a their farther progress should be known. On receiving the king's permission to proceed, they passed through a few villages, crossed the rivers Hachani and Welka Yebdu, in their way to a village called Aliu Amba, in a district so named, situated on a steep rock, where they met the first Christian governor, Yaunatu, who received them gladly as Christians. On the foUowing day they took other porters and asses from that place (travelling at the king's expense), and ascended the high mountains, on one of the summits of which, Ankdbar, the capital of the country, is situated. They crossed over a ridge of the mountains, which commands an extensive view ; on one side towards the vast plain they had lately crossed beyond the Hawash, and westwards over Shwa to a great distance. They went round one side of the summit on which Ankdbar is placed, and passed through a part of the town : the houses are constructed chiefly of wood, with conical thatched roofs, and are generally surrounded by a garden. The upper part of the town is hedged in with long stakes interwoven with boughs as pahsades ; and on the summit is the king's palace, built of stone and mortar, with a thatched roof. The situation of this town with its rich vegetation and cool vernal, or rather autumnal atmos phere, threw thpm almost into an ecstasy. The king had given orders that they should be soon presented to him, and as he was at AngoHola, a day's journey distant from Ankober, they could not remain there. In their way onwards, they passed over stony roads along the side of some mountains, and crossed an elevated valley through which a crystal rivulet hurries along, and is to turn a mill begun by a Greek builder, named Demetrius, by order of the king, but not then completed. They here seemed to breathe Alpine air, and drink Alpine water. They then ascended another high mountain, where they saw many Alpine plants, camomile and penny-royal, densely covering the ground. The summit of this mountain was almost ail covered with barley-fields, nearly ripe for the harvest. They put up at a poor Httle village called Metakwi, in a straw hut or rather stable, in which large and srnaU cattle lay mixed together with men, and where the smoke of the burning cane and cow- dung was so offensive, that nothing but the cold out of doors could reconcile them to remain within. On the following morning, the 7th of June, they left Metakwi, and pursuing their road eastwards over undulating table-land, halted at about one o'clock, p.m., in an elevated vaUey near Islam Amba, where the king's tent, of an" oblong form and of black coarse woollen, was already pitched. He was expected to come that way, and to pass the night there in his journey from Angollola to Ankober, to keep the annual Tezkar (anniversary) of his father Wusai Saged's death, which occurred in 1811. They had not been long encamped before they saw a train of horsemen coming down the mountain westwards, and in the midst of them, the king, over whose head a scarlet canopy was carried. He sent for them immediately after his arrival. They had prepared their presents, and with palpitating hearts entered his tent, where he sat on a small low sofa, covered with silk, and received them kindly. Their names were already known to his attendants ; and a messenger whom he had once sent with Kidiin Maryamto meet them at Gondar, inquired MR, COFFIN'S (MR. SALT'S COMPANION) ROUTE, ETC. 129 after M. Blumhardt. They first delivered Col. Campbell's letter, which had been translated by M. Isenberg into Amharic while on board ship ; -he perused it attentively. They then delivered their presents, among which the beautiful copies of the Amharic New Testament and Psalms particularly struck him ; he seemed to intimate, however, that he would have preferred Ethiopic to Amharic books. He observed that with regard to their principal object, which they had distinctly ex plained to him, he would have further conversation with them at a future time, as it was a matter which required great consideration : for the present he wished only to see and receive them, and to say that he was very glad that they had come to his country. He desired them in the mean while to go back to their tent, and rest there till the following day, when they might proceed to AngoUola, where he would again send for them, immediately after his return from Ankdbar. They were much pleased with their reception. The king's servants were ordered to treat them as his guests and friends, and to provide them with everything necessary. One of his attendants was appointed to wait on them, who had strict orders to keep off all troublesome people who might interrupt or annoy them in any way. Vtvy early in the morning of the 11th of June the king set off with his sure for Ankober, and the missionaries proceeded to AngoUola,' which they reached at 2 p.m. Not long afterwards the king returned, and immediately appointed a house for their residence, and sent them a cow. In aU these interviews with him it appeared that his great object was to obtain their aid in advancing the knowledge of arts and sciences in his dominions ; but he did not betray any signs of displeasure when they reminded him that their business was of a spiritual and not of a secular character, MR. COFFIN'S (MR. SALT'S COMPANION) JOURNEY FROM AMPHILLA BAY TO CHELICUT, NEAR ANTALO, IN JANUARY, 1810 (marked P on Map, page 39). The country round Madir, in Amphila Bay, yields neither water nor pasturage for the support of cattle, which had to be brought from Arena, in HowaHl Bay. Mr. Coffin started from Amphila on the 10th January, with a young chief named Alii Manda, who, notwithstanding that incessant rains feli for two days, kept him constantly on the march for 12 hours a day. Their road lay. in nearly a westerly direction, over barren and rugged hills, where they met with "occasionally a small village or encampment of the natives, who, out of respect to Alii Manda, treated the party in general with civility, though the provisions which they supplied were scanty, and by no means of the best quality. On the 13th, in the afternoon, after having traveUed nearly 50 miles, they reached a station on the edge of an extensive salt plain, where they stopped to refresh themselves under the shade of some acacias near some wells of fresh water. At this place they were provided by the natives with a sort of sandals, made of the leaves of a dwarf species of palm, which are invariably used by travellers for crossing the salt. The plain above mentioned lies perfectly flat, in a north-east and south west direction, and is said to be four days' journey in extent. The first 130 MR. HAMILTON'S JOURNEY half mile, from not being firmly crusted, was sHppery and dangerous to pass, the feet sinking every step into the mud, as is usual in crossing a salt marsh. After this the surface became strongly ciusted, hard, and crystallised, resembling in appearance a rough, coarse sheet of ice, which has been covered with snow, thawed, and frozen again ; branches of pure salt, resembling pieces of madrepore, occasionaHy rose above the surface, and two small hills stood in the centre of the plain. This plain took Mr. Coffin and his party about five hours to cross, when they reached the country of the Assa Durwa, which the Ras humorously terms his barbarian territory. On this side of the plain a number of Abyssinians were seen engaged in cutting out the salt, which they accomplished by means of a small adze, and the form of the pieces is similar to that of the whetstone used by our mowers in England. In some places it continues tolerably pure so deep as three feet, but in general not lower than two. -From this plain the whole of Abyssinia is supplied with salt. On the 14th, the party proceeded over some steep and rugged passes in the mountain, until they arrived at the village of Dafo, situated in an extensive and verdant plain, inhabited by the Hurtoo, a tribe of Danakil, which was conquered at an early period by the Abyssinians, and has ever since been subject to the governor of Tigre. The country beyond this was exceedingly beautiful, and game of various species appeared to be very plentiful. On the 15th, at night, they reached the foot of the mountain Senate. At this station tribute is levied by order of the Ras. A camel carrying two hundred pieces pays eleven, a mule, whose load consists of eighty only, pays nine, and a loaded ass six. On the 16th, the party ascended Senate, which is said to be full as high, though not so difficult to pass over as Taranta. At the summit a complete change of seasons was experienced, and, instead of continued rain and tempestuous weather, the sky became unclouded, and "they found the inhabitants busily engaged in gathering in their corn. Here they stopped at a village to refresh themselves, and at three proceeded through a rich and fertile country, which at six o'clock brought them to a large town called Hammee, where they stayed for the night. On the 17th, they continued their journey to Dirbe; and on the 18th, they reached Chelicut. MR. HAMILTON'S JOURNEY FROM SUAKIM TO KASSALA IN MARCH, 1854 (marked AA on Map, page 39). The port of Suakim is formed by a circular creek, with only a narrow inlet to the east, rendering it secure for the vessels of small burthen which can find anchorage in it. A single glance at the form of the harbour shews that it is a coral formation, with a small circular island in the centre, on which are the governor's house and some stone houses and huts. On the mainland is another group of huts. The inhabitants of the two places together probably exceeding 12,000 souls. Suakim contains a few merchants of some wealth, and a number of traders, with very small capitals. The distances in this journey are measured by hours of 2-£ miles, being the rate of a laden camel. The FROM SUAKilM TO RASSALA. 131 camel men are Hadendpa Arabs, a tribe which extends from Suakim the neighbourhood of Kassala. Two roads exist to Tacca, the province in which Kassala is situated ; the one by the Langeb is the most direct, the other, more southerly, skirts the frontier of Abyssinia. The first was chosen. They started late on the 16th March, and only made two hours' march through the long plains, which extend north and south as far as the eye can reach, and which are covered with a thorny vegetation, affording exceHent pasture for camels and goats, numerous flocks of the latter of which were scattered over it. The thermometer at 8 o'clock a.m. was 82°, a temperature which they found during those months pretty constant at that hour. An hour and a half after starting next morning they were abreast of the Hamut, over the lower spurs of which the road passes into a wady, or valley, through which they travelled for four hours. From the rocks springs a meagre, thorny vegetation. At the end of the wady two high conical summits appeared to the S.S.E., and they came upon an oval basin surrounded by granite hills, covered with bright green grass, through which a streamlet flowed. This stream flows down the Wady Goob, which they next ascended. The sides of the Wady were formed by low masses of granite, from the crevices of which sprung a multitude of plants. They reached the first water at 3 p.m., but went on until they had completed 7\ hours, when they stopped at the head of the valley, in a beautiful spot from which a lofty peak, Gebel JJikailot, lay due N.W., Gebpl Waraweh N. 80 E-, and Gebel Nafait W. 19 N. The next day, proceeding up the vaUey, they found themselves in a series of steep defiles. The Atabayat seems in many, places utterly impassable ; and hooking round on the irregular masses of rock they had climbed over, it seemed difficult to understand how the camels had effected it. A shorter but not less precipitous descent brought thpm to a smaH plain, bordered on all sides by hills, and watered by a small spring, near which a herd of goats was browsing. Riding W.S.W., they ascended the long but not steep pass of Hadda- meib, and, reaching its summit, found themselves, after an insignificant descent through Wady Gabut, on the edge of an immense plateau, covered with bulbous plants and shrubs. After travelling ninp hours, thpy reached a grassy plateau surrounded by low hills, beautifully dptted with a variety of frees. This plain is caUed Snbab. They then reached a long gentle ascent over ground, generally bare of vegetatipn, and covered with fragments of blackened granite ; in places dotted with tufts of wiry, sharp-pointed grass, and with ]\limosa trees. They had now reached a lofty plateau, to which the Sawakly come to pasture their cattle in the rainy season. Here they found some magnificent frees, a few neat tents of Hadendoa Arabs, and a flock of sheep, tended by a boy, who refused to sell any. The remainder of the day's journey was continued up a gently sipped plateau, formed of sand covered with dark fragments of granite, and without vegetation. The camp was pitched in the plain Saballat, six hours from the starting place. March 19th.. — Traversed an immense series of gradually ascending plateaux, whose soil was for the most part barren gravel, with blocks of granite. Towards evening, eight hours from SanbaHat, entered a pass were a few trees of a brighter tint attract the eye, and where thorp is, water. This is the commencement pf the country of Langeb, wbiph is thickly peopled with Hadendpah Arabs, of whom, however, fhey saw 132 MR. HAMILTON'S JOURNEY little, as they fled at their approach, having been often the victims of Egyptian soldiers. Passed through a beautiful succession of gorges, the Mils rising fantastically, then* bases being clothed with a net fringe of doum-palms and other trees. Five hours from the entrance of Langeb, reached a well (Bir Walo), at which an immense number of sheep and kine were being watered. Leaving the well, they continued up the wooded pass, following the watercourse, a strong north-east wind blowing. Four and a half hours through a thick wood of doums brought them to the watershed, where they encamped by a small spring called the Tkit. Next day they descended the Wady Tkit, and then came to a new succession of short passes, barren of vegetation excepting a few thorns. Four hours and a half from Tkit they entered a lofty but not extensive plateau, entered by a defile, like a gigantic Cyclopean wall. They made only eight hours that day, and eight hours of the following were occu pied in crossing a succession of almost treeless, featureless tracts oi' sand. They then came to a black basaltic defile, down which they rode, its steep turns opening into a vast plain, which stretches full of verdure to the east. They afigbted at the Wady Araft, near a well. March 23. — They ascended for a short time, and in half an hour reached a formation of white basalt and porphyry. Crossing this hill, the road lay for the rest of this march over the open plains of Wady Magwar, which are intersected by shallow ravines of sand, filled with trees. Towards evening they saw the long, apparently lofty, range of hills called Gebel Kuarit, under which the Tokka road to Kassala passes. They slept in the plain Wady Weidi, nine and a half hours from Ham- buhb. The journey of the next day, over Wady Ambureib to a line of doums with a well, Bir Gadomeyb, though only four and a half hours, was one of the most fatiguing they had yet endured. There was no shade to ward off the sun, and the wind, a strong north-easter, blew alternately cool and burning blasts of great violence. The thermometer at midday was 99° in the shade of the palms ; at two o'clock it was 101°. They then crossed an immense sand plain, covered with boulder stones, stretching on the west and south to the horizon. They slept two miles from the wells. Next morning they traversed for 16 hours an immense Savannah, on which grew only one solitary tree. The ground was covered with long parched grass, and full of crevices, showing the abundance of the waters,. which in the rainy season, about two months from that time, deluge the country, and convert it into a green prairie, like a rice field. The sun, added to the hot parched air, was very painful. The heat was so intense that the bridle hand was burned in white, transparent blisters, as if by the contact of fire, though the thermometer did not exceed 102°. Next morning they were fortunate in a fresh cool breeze to continue their ride across the treeless Atmur or desert. In less than four hours they reached the wells of Bu Shimah. The heat was intense ; the wind not only blew burning blasts, from which they had to protect the face with as thick a muffler as from a northern ice wind, but also raised high columns of sand, of strange fiery colour, which swept slowly whirling across the plain. Mr. Hamilton says " I had all this time resisted the temptation to drink of the small water jar suspended at my saddle, knowing how little it contained, and that the more one drinks, tlie more imperious become the calls of thirst. Hardly able to speak, I rode up to a thorn FROM SUAKIM TO KASSALA. 133 bush, round which the packsaddles and loads of the camels were littered, with their owners steeping in the midst. One of them raised himself at my approach, and calling out to him for water, almost the only word of the Hadendoa language I possess, he pointed to a further group of trees on a low terrace oh the other side of a small plain. Here I found a great number of wells, with a large herds of kine gathered round them ; I dropped from my dromedary without taking time to make him kneel down, and a man reached me the round skin with which he was draw- iug water for his cattle, I literally buried my face in the not clear, but grateful fluid." This place contains a long line of wells, many of them within 20 feet of each other, which serve to water herds of many thousands of cattle. From here for thee day's journey they crossed a country of the same nature, everywhere green, covered with trees and fields of pasturage, and presenting many groups of wells like these. "An immense sheet of water, probably nourished from the mountains of Abyssinia subtends the whole country." Two hours beyond Bu Sheinah, where their camels had been watered, they encamped in a plain thickly overgrown with large aromatic plants of absinth. To the left was an Arab village. The next morning, an hour and a half after starting, they reached a village of straw huts called Fillik ; this is probably rather the name of the whole tract of country they were entering on, as it means "popu lous," an epithet appHcable to this tract in opposition to that of the Atmur, which they had just crossed. They then passed three groups of wells surrounded by innumerable herds of kine and sheep. The country is weU wooded. ¦ In 7\ hours they arrived at a large village called Elmit Kenab, the most populous in the country, and one of its chief markets. Lions, ostriches, giraffes, and elephants abound. Water very scarce. The thermometer at two o'clock was 108°, and they were oppressed with thirst as they had found no water since leaving the last well. The next clay they halted at midday at the last group of wells they were to find on the road, a beautiful scene, the ground studded with short thick grass. GazeHes, guinea fowls, and doves abounded. Leave- ing the weHs, they rode through fields of durrah, a cereal which grows to the height of from 12 to 15 feet. Towards evening they emerged from the fertile country and came on to a large gravel plain, abounding with antelopes and guinea fowl. After having made 7 hours they encamped. The next day they reached Kassalah, after more than five hours' ride under a burning sun. Kassalah, although only a small town enclosed by mud walls, con tains a castle with a very large powder magazine, and barracks capable of containing at least 4,000 soldiers. It is the Egyptian frontier post towards Abyssinia. Though so recently built, it is already a market of considerable importance, and its vicinity to the chief marts in Sainaar and Abyssinia must render it, at no distant period, one of the best trading stations in the Soudan. The great gum market of Gadarif is only four days' journey from here ; thence 8 days are sufficient to reach Matamah, the principal mart- for exchange betwixt Abyssinia and Sennar, and much resorted to by traders from Dar, Fungi, and FazogH.. From Matamah there are two roads to Gondar ; that usually followed, is both steep and in bad condition, but the other, which is closed to all but native Christians, is described as being half a day shorter and much better. Mr. Kotzika with great difficulty obtained permission to return 134 bruce's journey from by it from an excursion into Abyssinia made this winter. It took him 4|- days in all, his first stage being from Gondar to Jeqdi, 4 hours, thence to Chaukar, where the best coffee is grown, 4 hours ; thence to the limits of the province of Takussa, one day-; and 2J more to Matamah. The hottest months in the country are March and April. The first days after their arrival the heat was intense, the thermometer at two o'clock being generally 103°, and at night seldom falling below 94°. One evening a little rain fell, and after that a cool .wind at midday tempered the heat, and the night seemed almost cold, but Mr. Hamil ton was informed that such early showers, for the rains would not begin for another month, are often productive of disease, however grateful they might seem. Near Kassalah runs the Gash or Mareb. At that season its bed was dry, but when the rainy season arrives, it roHs a large body of water in its wide bed to sweU the Atbara. ExceHent water is found everywhere at a short distance from the surface, both at Kassalah and in the plains below, from which it may be inferred that there runs under the whole soil a vast sheet of water. Industry might make this place an earthly paradise, but, when the summer rains have ceased, and the trees put forth their bright foHage, and the ground is covered with verdure and flowers, fevers spring up with them, and few in the entire population of town and country escape their attacks. These fevers are sometimes at once fatal, and often un dermine the constitution. Camels are wonderfully cheap in this country, being worth from 5 to 16 dollars, the latter, the price of the best dromedary. BRUCE'S JOURNEY FROM GONDAR TO THE GWANGWE, NEAR METEMMAH (marked Z 1 on Map, page 39). Set out on 26th December, 1771, by the west side of Debra- Tzai, having that mountain, which is close to Gondar, on the right hand. From the top of that ascent he saw the plain and flat country below, black, and in its appearance one thick wood, which some authors have called the Shumeta or Nubian forest. He then set out down the steep side of the mountain, the course being nearly N.N.W., through very strong and rugged ground, torn up by the torrents that fall on every side from above. This is called the descent of Moura; and though they and their beasts were in great health and spirits, they could not, with their utmost endeavours, ad vance much more than one mile an horn.'. Three Greeks, one of whom was nearly blind, a janissary, and a copt were his only companions, besides some common men to take charge of his beasts, who were to go no further than Tcherkin. At a quarter past four they came to the river Toom Aredo, which, arising in the country of the Kemmont, fails into the riyer Mahaanah. They crossed the river to the miserable village of Door-Maccary, winch is on the cast side of it, apd there took up their quarters, after a short but very fatiguing days journey. They saw a high mountainous ridge, with GONDAR TO THE GWANGWE. 135 a very rugged top, stretching from north to south, and towering up in the middle of the forest about five miles distance ; it is called Badjena- On the 28th, a little a tier midday, they passed Toom Aredo, and went, first cast, th.cn turned . north into the great road. They soon after passed a number of villages ; those on the high mountain Badjena on the east, and those belonging to the church of Koscam, on the west. Continuing still north, mchning a little to the west, they came to a steep and rugged descent, at the foot of which runs the Mogotoh, in a course straight north ; this descent is called the And. At a quarter past two, they crossed the Mogetch, the direction N.W. It is here a large swift running stream, perfectly clear, and they halted some time to refresh themselves upon its banks. At half-past three they resumed then- journey. A sharp and pyramidal mountain, called Gutch, stood alone in the midst of the trees, presenting its sharp top about six miles due north. A few minutes after they passed a smaU stream called Agam Ohha, or the Brook of Jessamine, which is frequent here. A few minutes past four, they entered a thick wood, winding round a hill in a south-east direction, to get into the plains below, where they were surrounded by a great multitude of men armed with lances, shields, slings, and large clubs or sticks. They showered stones on them, but did not hurt them, and eventually retired. At some villages called Gimbaar, they procured some goats and jars of bouza, but could get no bread made, as the people all fled. They left Gimbaar on the 29th, at 10 a.m., Bruce putting on his coat of mail and exchanging his mule for a horse, in case of being attacked. In a few minutes they passed three small clear streams, in a very fertile country ; the soil was a black loamy earth, the grass already parched or entirely burnt up by the sun. Though this country is finely watered and must be very fertile, yet is thinly inhabited, and, as they were informed, very unwholesome. At three-quarters past ten, they came to the river Mahaanah, its course nearly N.W. ; it was even at that dry season of the year a considerable stream. They rested here half an hour, and then pursued their journey straight north. They passed a large and deep valley, called Werk Meidan, or the Country of Gold, though there is no gold in it. It is full of wood and bushes. At twelve o'clock, the Mahaanah was about a quarter of a mile to the N.E., and the sharp-pointed mountains of Gutch three miles distant S.E. by E. They were informed by some Abyssinians who passed them, that at a certain pass called Dao-Dohha, they would be attacked next day by above a thousand men, Christians, Pagans, and Maho metans. At half-past four p.m. they encamped in the- market-place of WaaHa. WaaHa is a coHection of villages, each placed upon the top of a hill, and inclosing, as in a circle, an extensive piece of ground about three miles over, where a very weH frequented market is kept. It lies due N.W. from Gondar. On the 30th, at half-past six a.m. they left Waalia. In an hour arrived at the Mai Lumi river, and coasted it for some minutes, as it ran N.E. parallel to their course. The trees were loaded with fruit, which they found a great refreshment. At fourteen minutes past seven, continuing north-west, they crossed the river Mai Lumi, which here runs west, and continuing north-west, at eight o'clock they came to the mouth of the formidable pass Dao-Dohha. Before entering it, they rested five minutes to put themselves in order- They "found our appe tites falling through excessive heat." 136 bruce's journey FROM The pass of Dao-Dohha is a very narrow defile, full of strata of rocks, Hke steps of stairs, but so high, that without leaping or being pulled up, no horse or mule can ascend. Moreover, the descent, though short, is very steep, and almost choked up by huge stones, which the torrents, after washing the earth from about them, had rolled down from the mountains above. Both sides of the defile are covered thick with wood and brushes, especiaHy that detestable thorn, the Kantussa. Having extricated themselves successfully from this pass, they ar rived at ;§ past 8 at Werkleva, a Mahometan village. Above this is Ar- matchiko, a famous hermitage. Having rested a few minutes at Tabaret Wimze, a wretched village composed of miserable huts, on the banks of a small brook, at a quarter-past two they passed the Coy, a large river which falls into the Mahaanah. From Mai Lumi to this place the country was but indifferent in appearance ; the soil indeed exceedingly good, but a wildness and look- of desolation marred the whole of it. The grass was growing high, the country extensive, and almost without ha bitation, whilst the few huts that were to be seen seemed more than or dinarily miserable, and was hid in recesses or in the edge of vaUeys overgrown with wood. On'the 31st December they left then* station at the head of a diffi cult pass called Coy Gulgulet, at the foot of which runs the Coy, one of the largest rivers they had seen, but they clid not discover any fish in it. At half-past eight they came to the banks of the Germa, which winds along the valley and falls into the Augrat. After having con tinued some time by the side of the Germa and crossed it, going N.W., they passed at ten o'clock the small river Idola, and half-an-hour after came to Deber, a house of Ayto Confu, on the top of a mountain by the side of a smaU river of that name. The country .here is partly in wood and partly in plantations of Dora. It is very weU watered and seems to produce beautiful crops, but it is not beautiful ; the soil is red earth, and the bottoms of all the rivers soft and earthy, the water heavy and generally ill-tasted. They left Deber on the 1st January, 1772. At half-past ten they passed a smaU village called Dembic, and about mid-day came to the large river Tchema, which falls into the larger river Dwang below, to the westward. About an hour after they came to the Mogetch, a river not so large as the Tchema, but which, like it, joins the Dwang. Here they saw the steep mountain Magwena, where there is a monastery. Magwena, except one mountain, is a bare even ridge of rocks which seemingly bear nothing. In the rainy season, it is said every species of verdure is here in the greatest luxuriancy. All the plantations of corn are infested by small green monkeys. Between three and four in the afternoon they encamped at Eggir Dembic, and in the evening passed along the side of a small river run ning west, which falls into the Mogetch. The next day they passed through several small villages ; at half- past eight they came to the mountain of Tchertrin, and at twenty minutes past ten pitched their tent in the market-place of Tchertrin, which re sembles a beautiful lawn, shaded with fine trees and watered by a small but limpid brook. Here they found plenty of game, elephants, rhinocerosses, and buffaloes. There are immenso forests in the neigh bourhood. On the 1.5th January they left Tchertrin, and entered immediately krapf's journey from magdala by lake HAIK, ETC. 137 thick woods, but proceeded very slowly, the road being bad and un known, if it could be called a road, and the camels overloaded. About an hour afterwards they passed a small village of elephant hunters, and then due north through thick dark woods overgrown with long grass. At half-past ten thoy came to another village and then turned N.W., passing several villages of Mahometan elephant hunters., At three- quarters past twelve they came to the small river which runs W.N.W., and falls into the Germa. At ten minutes past one they set out , again through the thickest and most impenetrable woods, and at half-past four encamped on a small stream near the village of Amba Daid. On the 16th they reached the Germa, a large river which runs N.N.W., and falls into the Augrab ; at twelve they passed the Terkwa, which falls into the Augrab and then the Jibbel, Myrat and Woodo, which is full of small fish. On the 17th, started before 7 a.m., going N. and N.W., and reached Sancaho at half-past one; which consists of about 300 houses, inhabited by Baasa. It is "half surrounded by a river which was nearly dry. On leaving Sancrato next morning, they passed through thick cane woods and crossed the Bedowi several times. They encamped on the Tokoor, famous for the number of buffaloes on its banks, which are shaded by large trees. On the 19th they passed the village of Gilma and twice crossed the river of the same name, running northward. They then joined the Dabda road and crossed the Quartucca, a small river running north. The country here became more open, the thick woods having small plains between them. They crossed a stream and stopped at a Baasa village called Kantis. On the 20th they only proceeded If miles, being fatigued, to Guanjooh, where they found woods interspersed with lawns, cotton- ¦ fields, and a variety of game, especially guinea-fowls. On the 22nd they started at three-quarters past six, crossed the Gum- bacca and Tokoor, and then at half-past eleven the Guangue, the largest river they had seen except the Nile and Tacazze. After passing this river the roael entered the country called Ras-el- Feel, which, Bruce says, is the hottest country in the world. The ther mometer was at one place 61o at sunrise, 114° at 3 p.m., in the shade, and 82° at sunset. The country is very destitute of water, and covered with thick jungle. KRAPF'S JOURNEY FROM MAGDALA BY LAKE HAIK, ANTALO, ATEGERAT, AND TOHONDA (AVOIDING THE TARANTA PASS) TO MASSOWAH, IN MARCH AND APRIL, 1842 (marked Rl, 0 1, N and E on Map, page 39). March 26, 1842. — As no message from our host beyond the River Bashilo had arrived, I judged it best to go from Gembarghie to Tanta, and inquire of the Imam what I should do in my perplexing circumstance. We kept close to the territory of Daood-Berille, whose capital is Saint, 138 krapf's journey from magdala which we could see from a distance pretty well. This man, who had it in his power to forward me to Gondar, has the reputation of being a robber ; and besides he was not on good terms with Imam Liban, without whose recommendation and protection it was impossible to proceed to Daood-Berille. On our return from Gembarghie we had a pretty view of the course of the River Bashilo to the mount Samada, in the north-east of Godjam. The high mountains of Begemeder were also presented to our view ; and Debra- Tabor, the capital of Ras AH, was pointed out to me by one of my servants who had formerly been there. As I would not return to Imam Liban in too great haste, I pitched my tent near the strong hold of Magdala before mentioned, and sent a messenger to the Imam, to ask his advice in my critical situation. In the meantime, I inquired whether there was any other road to Gondar except by way of Daunt and Saint ; but my inquiry was in vain. My messenger returned with out having seen the Imam, his whole court being in confusion and pre paring for war. My man was hke to be plundered and deprived of his cloth and mule by the Imam's own people. Under such circumstances, and the way being obstructed on all sides, the best plan appeared to return to Shoa through the territory of Adara Bille, on whose friend ship and kindness I thought I could rely. Under these circumstances I compared the road from Ankobar to Tadjurra with that to Massowah, and was led to the following con clusions : — , 1. Although the climate from Ankobar to Massowah is superior to that of the Danakil country ; and although there is everywhere plenty of water, and a cool and healthy air on the Massowah road, yet the Tadjurra road is more preferred by the traveUer. 2. It is true, that the difficulties arising from want of -water and excessive heat in the Danakil country are very great ; but you do not meet with the disturbances which almost continually happen on the road through northern Abyssinia, and which either delay or consider ably endanger your route. 3. On the Tadjurra road yon have only to agree with one guide and proprietor of camels, which will carry your baggage as far as Efat ; while on the Massowah road you pass from the hands of one Chieftain into the hands of another, each of whom wants a present for the assist ance which he gives you. Besides, as there is no road for camels, you are obHged to procure your own beasts of burden, which cannot carry the same quantity of baggage which a camel can. 4. These beasts of burden cannot stand a journey, which is almost three times farther from Ankobar, than that from Tadjurra. Your animals will die, and you will be exposed to many difficulties till you have procured others. These and other reasons led me to the conclusion, that the Tadjurra road is, notwithstanding its inconveniences and difficulties, preferable to the Massowah road ; and that therefore the road from Tadjurra must be kept open and secured. March 27, 1842.- — We returned this morning to Imam Liban, who appeared to have been in great sorrow and apprehensions regarding myself. When he saw me, he said, "You have done very weH in re- turning to me, as you cannot go to Gondar under present circumstances. If you like you can take your refuge with my Governor Joossoof on the stronghold of Hoait,* which my enemies will not be able to conquer. * This is a high hill on the junction of the river Bashilo with another, the name of which I have forgotten, The hill is situated in the north pf Tanta. BY LAKE HAIK, ETC. 139 In the course of a month you will be able to see whether you can again attempt your journey." I ropHed, that I could not take the part of any of the combatants, and that I would prefer taking any other route which he would recommend to me ; or if not, that I would return to Shoa. He said, " Just as you like ; but I cannot send you to Gondar, as all the roads will be closed for some time." It appeared that he wished to send me to Hoait, in order that my gunners might assist in the defence of the place ; but I would never have consented to this, except under most perplexing circumstances. I learned afterward, that the stronghold had been attacked by Berroo AHgas and his brother Faris, who joined him at the time of my return to Aclara Bille, and that many men had been killed on both sides. I took leave of Imam Liban, and returned to Tartar- Amba, where Abba GooaHt, the Governor of Adara Bille's territory in Worra Himano, received me well, and provided me with provisions, which had been very scanty for several days. March 28, 1842. — Abba GooaHt, our host, treated us kindly. He is a Christian. In general, there are many Christians in Worra Himano. We left Tartar Amba about sunrise, accompanied by a servant of Abba GooaHt. We took great care to avoid going towards the territory of Ensenne, the famous robber in the tribe Gharso, which I have men tioned before. We kept our route in the territory of Worra Himano, which is bounded on the north by Wadela and Yechoo, on the east by Tehooladere, on the south by Berroo Loobo's and Adara Bille's countries, and on the west by Begemeder. The people knowing that I came from Shoa, frequently asked me how many ounces of gold I had received from the King of Shoa, it being the general opinion of the Abyssinians in the north, that there is much gold in Shoa ; and that its king gives this metal to all strangers, who leave his country. In some instances this report is true, as the king has given gold to some strangers; but Shoa is not the country v/here gold- is found. Occa sionally some may be found; but the gold which comes to Shoa, is brought from Gurague and beyond, where it is found in the bed of rivers after rain. But no Shoan subject is allowed to possess gold, which is only in the hands of the king, who would severely punish any of his subjects who had any, except the king himself had given it. About ten o'clock we passed Fala, where a celebrated market is held. It is situated on a hill, with steep and high banks in the east and west. In this direction a wall of about three or four feet in thick ness has been built to close the road against an invading army. This difficult passage secures from the south the access to the interior of the possessions of Imam Liban. In the West of Fala is the mount Amora- gadel, which is a natural stronghold against the inroads of the Galla tribes in the south-west. In the east we saw a high hiU, called Kemmer Dengai, which was produced by a former Imam, according to a tradi tion, which states that when the Imam was resting on a stone, he' ordered his servant to lift it up ; and that when the servant did so, the stone became a large hill. About three o'clock we passed close to the market-place of Totola in Berroo Loobo's country. This is one of the most celebrated markets of Abyssinia. We saw immense flocks of people coming from all quarters, as the market was to be held the next day. Even the Boranna Gallas, of the western Wollo tribes, visit this market. Merchants come from Gondar, Tigre, and Shoa. Whatever Abyssinia produces, is sold 140 KRAPF'S JOURNEY FROM MAGDALA in this market, particularly .horses, skins, clothes, and slaves. The duties which Berroo Loobo levies on this market are said to be very little ; bat, notwithstanding, ho receives weekly about 6,000 r-r 8,000 pieces of salt. It must be remarked that a dollar is changed for thirty pieces of salt in Loobo's country. The people here' are as scrupulous as the Shoans in selecting a certain kind of dollar. The dollar must not only have seven points distinctly expressed above the star in the middle, and s. f. below; but it must also look very white, and must not appear dirty, as they believe that filth has been appHed to the dollar for the purpose of covering the tin, of which it had been composed by im postors. I am sorry to say, that they arc not so particular in having their faces cleaned, or their clothes washed, as they are in selecting this sort of dollar. There are several other important market places in Berroo Loobo's country, and I have often heard that Berroo encourages trade, and in general has great order in his government. The Danakils Hke him much, and his people trade to Tadjurra. In this respect he must be superior to the King of Shoa, who did not allow his subjects till hitherto to go to the coast, probably from motives of superstition or narrow ideas, as if the entrance to his kingdom would become known to strangers, and his subjects having been acquainted with the Danakils, might run over to them when they are male- content with him. About five o'clock p.m. we again reached the territory of Adara Bille, and intended to pass the night in the house of a Governor caUed Edris ; but on arriving in his village we learnt that in consequence of a quarrel which arose between him and his subjects, he had been com pelled yesterday to take flight. The whole village was still in confusion, a circumstance which was extremely unpleasant to us, as we had be lieved that as soon as we had returneel to the territory of our great friend and kind host, Adara Bille, our difficulties and privations would be at end. The behaviour of the villagers was rude and daring, and every appeal to Adara Bille, to whom we represented their proceedings, was in vain. Our guns, however, frightened and prevented them from falling upon our baggage Hke a vulture on his defenceless prey. I found it necessary to put on a sentry ; and as my people were very tired from the fatigues of the day, I, watched in my turn. From the village where we had pitched the tent, I had a majestic view over almost all the territories of the WoUo Gallas. Ranges of mountains run from south or south-east to north and north-west. Each range is separated from the other by a plain, a river, or a torrent. Each range is inhabited by another Wollo tribe, just as I have observed in the country of the Gallas in the south of Shoa. The river or torrent serves the inhabitants of the mountain to defend their territory against another tribe. The rivers run chiefly to the Bashilo, which has the same destination as the river Adabai in Shoa; viz., to collect the tributes of water of a few hundred miles around and to carry this tribute to the great lord Abai or Nile. I must confess, that the system of the mountains and rivers of Abyssinia always replenishes my mind with astonishment at the wisdom of Him who has created all things with the best order and organization. Mwrch 29, 1842. — When the man who had accompanied me from Tartar Amba had left, we started from "the village where we had been treated very rudely. As our animals were tired from the continual fatigues, we had great difficulties in giving them their loads. Several mules were sore and could not be mounted. I thought that if I should undertake this journey another time I would pack up all my baggage BY LAKE HAIK, ETC. 141 on horseback, but with a very Hght load. I would be mounted myselt on horseback, and my servants also. A guide would shew me the road. I would take such a quantity of provisions that I should not be obHged to halt at places where there is any danger, and should I accidentally fall in with dangerous people, I would mount my horse and escape. This is the only way of traversing these hostile regions. We arrived at Gatira, the capital of Adara Bille, at three o'clock, I immediately sent my compliments, and explained the reasons of my speedy and unexpected return. He sent word, that I had done exceed ingly well in returning to him, and that God had delivered me from being plundered and murdered on the road to Gondar. At the same time, he sent some refreshments, and promised to give all that I wanted, as he wished to make me very comfortable. Can you fancy this to have been the language of a man how himself was going to plunder or to kill me in his own house ? After an hour's rest, I was called to see him ; and when I appeared, he used the same expressions as before, and appeared to be extremely sorry at my disappointment in the prosecution of my journey. How could I suppose that Adara Bute, whose house I considered as my own — who always pretended to be the most sincere friend of Sahela Selossieh — who assumed the greatest friendliness — who sent every moment to inquire after my wants— and who, in one word, treated me with the utmost attention — how could I suppose that this man was the very worst man whom I had ever seen in my life ? My people, as well as myself, hoped that we should in a few days be within the boundaries of Shoa ; but our Almighty Guide had intended to lead us by an opposite road, and to fry me with indescribable privations, hardships, dangers, and difficulties. March 30, 1842. — When I intended to leave Gatira after sun-rise, I was ordered by Adara Bille to stay with him, till he had informed the Governor of Dair, and through him the King of Shoa, whether I should be permitted to return to Shoa or not, as he had only received orders to conduct me to the road of Gondar, and not that he should assist or allow my return. Thinking that Adara Bille intended to detain me for the purpose of obtaining from me some presents in addition to those which I had given him on my first stay in his house, I gave him several valuable things, hoping he would aUow me to depart. But of course after he had once made up his mind to plunder my whole baggage, he was not content with these. His head wife Fatima, the daughter of Berroo Loobo, Chieftain of Worra Kallo, sent for a looking-glass, which she re ceived. They were detained some days at Gatira, and eventuaUy not allowed to proceed to Shoa, but obliged to return by the north. April 5, 1842. — We were still uncertain what would become of us. Reports were spread this morning, that Adara Bille would keep my servants as Ids slaves, and send me off alone to a road of which nobody could give any information. This report drove my people almost to despair, and made my own heart ache so much, that I could not refrain from weeping with them. They said that they would rather die than be separated from me. However, the Lord gave me strength to console my heart and that of my afflicted people. About nine o'clock a servant of Adara Bute appeared, with an order that we should leave the house, and follow the six soldiers, who were to conduct us beyond the territory of Adara Bille. He did not tell us which way we should be conducted, and I could not venture to ask, as Adara Bille might have become angry. Silent, and defenceless, we 142 KRAPF-S JOURNEY FROM MAGDALA followed the soldiers, who went before us with spears,, shields, and sworcls. Almost the whole population of Gatira was assembled ; most of them wept, others wished us a happy journey ; none praised their Chief ; and many expected a punishment from Heaven would be in flicted upon the country in consequence of the injustice shown towards strangers. As well as 1 could ascertain, from the position of the sun, my com pass having been taken by the robber, we marched north-east-east. It was now evident that Adara Bille intended to send us to the road of Tehooladere. I was quite indifferent regarding the way, as I could not lose anything more ; and indeed I could only profit from being con ducted to a road hitherto untrodden by Europeans. Our road led us continually over a level countiy, which however was but Httle cultivated. In general, nature seems to have refused to the Wollo Gallas that fertile country, and that state of wealth, which the Gallas enjoy in the south of Shoa. This is perhaps the reason of the thievish, character for which the WoUo Gallas are truly blamed We saw very few villages, and the population cannot be considerable in this part of Adara Bille's territory. We crossed several rivulets, which pre sented to us theh cool and delicious water. In the afternoon we were joined on the road by the robber's chief priest, who was returning to his village, not having obtaedin any new revelation concerning my party, as all our property was lost. His name is Tahir. On meeting me, he gave his compliments with a smiling face, and said, " If you will come with me, I will give you something to eat and drink : but your servants may look out for themselves by begging in the village." I put very little confidence in the cunning man ; but he did more than I expected ; for he gave us a house, Hghted a fire, it being cold and rainy, and gave me to eat and to drink as well as my servants, who did not find anything in the village. I ate with the greatest appetite, being rather hungry from the confinement in the prison. April (5. 1842. — Early this morning we left the village of our host Tahir, When saying good bye, I expressed my thanks for his hospi tality, which I could not now reward, as he was well aware. He said, "Never mind : it does not signify. I have my share in the property which Adara at my advice on the Wodacha has taken from you." He laughed, and walked off. This is something of the character of the Wollo Gallas, namely, friendly cunningness and rapacity. About eight o'clock we crossed a rivulet, and about ten o'clock we left for ever the territory of Adara Bille, having entered into that of Berroo Loobo. We first passed Totola, the celebrated market-place of which I have spoken before. Totola means, properly speaking, the whole beautiful valley and district into which we had entered, having left the country of Adara. It is intersected in the middle by the river G-herado, which runs from south to north-west to the river Bashilo. . Oij.. both sides of the valley is a range of hills more or less elevated, and Covered with junipei^trecs. These hills are covered with hamlets- and (villages. The whole scenery is; so> beautiful, that I cannot recollect ever having seen such a tine sight in Abyssinia. You can scarcely imagine that you are. in Africa. The cool elimate — the fresh and healthy air- — the green plain, watered artificially by aqueducts from the river — the activity of the inhabitants in cultivation — the quantity of cattle grazing — and1 the mufti rude ¦ of travelling merchants whom you meet on the vikmI wif-h their goods — -all these and many other things give tlie. place &n Ettropenu appearance. It ifr great pity that such a magnificemt BY LAKE HAJK, fiTQ.. 143 ¦.district of ten or, fifteen miles is not in the hands of a better people and government. I waited several times tp rest on the wayside to spe more of this pretty scene : but our soldiers drove us on, repeatedly saying, " Are you not our cattle, with which we can do .as we please?" Thp principal market places of Worra Kallo are, Tqtola, Ancharro, Regghe, Dawe, Kallo, and Fellano. Our guardians said, that they were ordered to accompany us as far as the river Mille, where there is a wood-like wilderness,, in which they evidently intended to plunder the rest pf, our clothes, and thus leave us to certain death. But Providence watched pur lives. About twelve p'.clock we crossed the river Berkona, and entered into the territory pf Tehooladere, which is. governed by Amade, or Abba Shaol. The latter is the name of the Chieftain's favourite horse, which has given him the same name. The Rerkonawas ;p.ot more .than twenty feet in breadth at the part where we crossed. Its sources were pointed out to me as rising at the foot of a hill called Boroo, about six miles from the place where we crossed the river. Near the hill Boroo is a village, caUed Kombolcha ; therefore the people generally say that the sources are at Kombolcha, where there is ajnarsh ground. Thp Berkona was on our passage at a. very low height of water, being about a span hi depth. It runs first to the south, then turns round to the east, near Ayn Amba, and finally joins the Hawash in the country of the Adals. • Not far from our passage, the Berkona forms a cataract. Most of the waters pf Worra Kallo join the Berkona, a very important fact, which shews that we had passed this forenoon the watershed, being between. fb.e river Gherado, which runs to the river Bashilo, which goes to thp Nile, while the Berkona goes to the east to the Hawash. The continuation 0 feet above the sea. The sky was clouded when we traversed the wilderness, a circum stance which rendered our situation still worse, as we could not dis tinguish and make out our direction from the peaks of the mountains. However, we went on, being convinced that the road must lead us to some place or other. We saw no village, no cultivated land, no cattle, no beast, except some foxes:; no travellers, in fact nothing but desola tion, and we ourselves seemed .abandoned-, -. Few plages .ever gave me such a melancholy impression as; this wilderness, au impression which I can scarcely forget. After a walk of three, or four miles, on a sudden we observed at. a distance through the mist covering, the wilderness a number of peqple, who were sitting on the ground on the side of the way which we had blindly taken. Their appearance was not agreeable to us, as we took them for lurking robbers, of whom we had been warmed yesterday at Saragadel. To our great joy. however, they proved to be merchants of Woldaia coming from the market held at that place. They were just eating their breakfast, of which they kindly gave us a share after they had heard of our misery. They also provided us with some meal, for our use on the road. One of their party also accom panied us for some distance, and, showed us tlie road so plainly that we •could not go astray. I took bpjbh the food and the guidance aa coming 156 krapf's journey from magdala from the gracious hands of Him who always helped when help was- necessary. About one o'clock p.m., we reached a few houses on the road, where we halted and had our flour which the merchants had given us made into bread. We left the hamlet about two o'clock p.m., continuaHy descending on our route, which led us again through a tract of country entirely abandoned by inhabitants. I must remark, that we began to descend after we had left the merchants mentioned above. The wilderness through which we now traveHed had a very different appearance from what I observed this morning. We now found more water ; we had fine scenery for our eyes ; juniper-trees, kolquaU acacia were in abundance ; and sometimes we found it difficult to extricate ourselves from the abundance of thorns. But we saw no inhabitants ; we met no traveUers ; nor did we see any wild beasts, but beautiful birds of the finest plumage. Fortunately we could find our road easier than had been the case this morning, when the grass and mist pre vented us from keeping up the direction pointed pointed out by our host in Saragadel. The present population of Lasta seems to be almost nothing, having been destroyed by famine, war, and sickness, as I was told by the natives whom I asked about this subject. Ras AH was blamed for having ravaged the country several years ago in the most barbarous manner. There would be much room for the maintenance of a numerous population; but it would require an active hand, tiU the thorny ground could be made arable. A single farmer might now possess himself of as much ground as he likes. I shall never forget the refreshing water which I drank out of the rivulets which run to the north-west in small but deep beds under the shadow of a thicket of wood, so that the sunbeams can never touch the water, and which is therefore agreeably cool. Their course is north-west to the river Tacazze ; a circumstance which shows that we had this morning passed the watershed as soon as we had passed the cold wilderness. The country of Lasta is high and hdly in the east and west ; and therefore the running "of the waters must force their way to the north-north west. From the point where we traveHed to-day we saw no more a rivulet running to the east till we reached the frontier of Tigre to Mas sowah. Having left the country of Angot, we crossed only such waters as belong to the waterstock of the river Tacazze. But I have no doubt that the high mountains in the east of Lasta, Wofila, and Enderta, pour out many rivulets toward the country of Adel, as is the case with the eastern mountains of Yechoo, Worrakallo, and Shoa. The space of a journal does not allow me to dwell upon a subject which would give occasion for writing a volume about the system of waters and moun tains of Eastern Abyssinia. ' , About five o'clock in the evening we reached a viUage, called Deldei, which means in Amharic " bridge." In many respects there is some truth in this name, as this village really presents the passage yon must take either in going to the country of Wag in the north, or of" Yechoo in the south. It leads you in both cases to uninhabited tracts of country. It is therefore the general assembling place of merchants going from Sokota and Wofila to Woldai, or vice versa. In Deldei, the market people join together, in order to frighten the robbers of the road with an imposing party. The robbers especially lurk on such days when the merchants return from Woldaia or Sokota. We met a com pany of merchants ; but our plan was now positively against joining BY LAKE HAIK, ETC. 157 their party, who wished us to take the road to Sokota, the Capital of thp Wag country, which we endeavoured by all means to avoid, having heard of the rapacious character of the Governor of Wag. We entered the first house which we saw in Deldei on the way side. April 15, 1842. — Early this morning we departed from Deldei, taking an easterly direction toward Wofila and the lake of Ashanghe. We did not like to go to Sokota, having heard of the bad character of thp Governor of the Agaus. Last year he robbed a French gentleman, who intended to go to Shoa. This gentleman had a fine sword, which thp Governor wanted to buy; but as be would not. bargain with the Governor, he was angry, and sent his servant on the road to rob and kill him on his way from Sokota. They wounded him with a lance ; whereupon he fell to the ground ; and the robbers taking him for dead, took his luggage and clothes, and returned to their master. This fact is true, and was afterward related to me by the servants of the Governor of Wag. About six o'clock we halted on the banks of the river Terari, where we finished the remainder of the bread which our host had given us yesterday evening. On our road to Wofila Was the convent of Shamado Mariam, which is in great reputation with the Abyssinians. We did not visit the convent. The principal convents distinguished for Sanctity are in Axum Tzion, LaHbala, and Debra Libanos. Our road led us through countries quite destitute of inhabitants, although the good Soil Would admit a Consider able degree of cultivation. The ground Was overgrown with grass and thorns, and intersected with rills and brooks. The road was hilly, bht not rocky. We Could see in. the north- north- west of Lasta the. high mountains of Semien, the peaks of which presented to us the appear ance of large towers. The hilly Country of Lasta and Wag, as far as we could see, had exactly the appearance of a, raging and stormy sea, presenting numerous hiHs of waves, with a large space between each wave. We observed only a few hamlets on our road ; namely, Ahio, Tartars, and Atemie Galla.- . The ground is full of grass, thorns, and bushes '; but this is exactly the country which suits the purpose of the gangs of robbers. We travelled to-day almost in an easterly direction; but on arriving at Atemie GaUa; we deviated from our road to north-east-east, having learned that our eastern direction would lead us to the country of the • Rak 'Gallas, who Would certainly kfll us if we fell into their hands. Having no reason to doubt the correctness of this statement, which was given to us by an old man of the hamlet Atemie Galla, we turned off immediately to north-east-east toward the village Enalka, which We could see from a distance, and where we' intended to pass the night. Marching over a thorny field, we saw two men running after us with large sticks.. When they came up to us, they were silent for some time as to their object in coming after us. Upon asking them -fh&t they wanted, they said, that they Wanted medicine. Their behaviour, how ever, clearly shewed that this was not their real intention of coming to us. Unquestionably they contrived this falsehood to make us believe that .they did hot intend to plunder us, when they saw that they could net managp us, ohr party being too strong for them. We' reached the village of Enalka about four o'clock. The viUage of Enalka belongs to the district of Wofila, being depen dent on the Governor of Wag. I have forgotten to remark in my notes of yesterday, that the village of Deldei is the frontier of the govern- 158 krapf's journey from magdala mont of Dejasmadj Faris. All the country in the north of that village is governed by the Governor of Wag, which is the country of the Agaus. Lasta was formerly in the hands cf the Governor of Wag ; but' Faris conquered it, and has been confirmed in his government by Ras Ali. Lasta is bordered in the south by Angot, Yechoo, and Wadela ; in the west by Begedemer ; in the north by Wag ; and in the east by Angot and the Raia tribes. The country of Wag is dependent on Ras AH ; but this dependency appears to be very loose. The capital of the Governor of Wag is Sokota, Wofila is dependent on him, as already mentioned. The principal places in the south-east of Wofila, are Zelga, Bora, and the lake Ashanghe. The language spoken in Wofila is that of Tigre, by which it is bordered in the north-east ; while the language of Wag is totaUy different from any language in Abyssinia, so that I could not understand a word of it. It has neither affinity to the ^thiopic and Amharic, nor to the Galla language. It is totaHy a different tongue. I have been informed that the other tribes of Wag, which reside towards the sources of the Nile, have a language which is not understood by those Agaus whose country I have traversed. They told me, that the whole Wag country is divided into seven houses or tribes ; but they could not teU me their names, nor could they inform me of their former histories. I have coUeeted a number of words of the Agau language ; but unfortunately they were effaced by the rain, as they were written on reeds, in consequence of the scantiness of paper which was left me by the robber Anara Bille. The Agaus differ as much from that of the rest of Abyssinia in their features, manners, and customs, as in their language. In one great thing, however, they agree with the other Abyssinians ; namely, the Christian reHgion, and which has certainly tempered a Httle the character of savageness, spirit of independency, bravery in warfare, irascibleness, revengefulness, and rapacity, which is ascribed to them by the other Abyssinians, and which, I think, is pretty correct. April 16, 1842. — We left Enalka at sunrise. The priest whom I mentioned yesterday accompanied us for some distance, and showed us the road to Lat. In consequence of his advice- we gave up the plan of taking the shortest road to the lake Ashanghe, and thought it better first to proceed to Lat, and there to make further inqniries respecting the security pf our way. We ascended tiU about ten o'clock. On the whole of our road, we saw only one hamlet, caHed Dafat. Having arrived on the mountain, which we had been ascending since we left Enalka, we had a pretty view of the mountains of the Raia Gallas in the east. They pointed out the position of the lake Ashanghe ; but it being surrounded by mountains, I could not see the water. From what I heard, however, I must conclude that it is not so large as lake Haik ; at all events there is no island in it. I was told that there are many villages around the lake, where there is a weekly market held. If I am not mistaken, I heard that the largest village, where the market is held, is caUed Wofila, close to Ashanghe. This is at the same time the name of the whole district or province. On the eastern shores of the lake are Gallas, and therefore great care must be taken which road you go in thesti hostile regions. I afterward very much regretted that I allowed the people on the road to discourage me with their statements of the insecurity of the access to the lake from having seen this interesting part of the country, as I was not more than eight or ten miles from the lake. But the desire of getting rid of "his miseries and hardships fre quently prevails on a traveller to let many opportunities escape, which, if he availed himself of them, would afterward afford him the greatest BY LAKE HAIK, ETC. 159 pleasure from the favourable success which might have crowned his scientific endeavours. I was told by a native, that there is another small lake at some distance from the large one ; but I have forgotten its name. About twelve o'clock we arrived in the village of Lat, which is of considerable extent. I do not recollect having seen such a large village since I left the country of Yechoo. Probably the name of Wofilat is to be derived from' the Amharic Wof-Lat, which means a fat bird. But I do not know to what this origin of the name refers. We only intended to rest a Httle from the fatigues of our road, to inquire after our route to the lake Ashanghe, and then to go further ; but the Alaca of the Church of St. George, who pretended to have seen me at Ankobar, begged me to stop. He dehghted us with a cake of bread and a quantity of hog's beans. I learned from him that the Governor Wolda Medben had encamped at Wofilat close to the lake Ashanghe, in order to coUect the annual tribute of the people, consisting of sheep, cows, barley, hog's beans, &c. From the description which the Alaca gave me of the soldiers of Wolda Medhen, I was not induced to go to the lake under present circumstances, although our, route to Antalo would have been thereby shortened. A compass would have been useless, as the very route which we had now taken to avoid going to Ashanghe, afterward took us to the Governor of whose soldiers we were apprehensive. Aprillfj 1842. — We travelled for some time in the bed of a river which flows to the Tacazze, from which we were distant only a few days' journe^. We were obHged to halt in the river till after daybreak, in order to ^,g sure of our direction to Antalo in Enderta. After daylight we ;aw a village at some distance, and people coming up to us. But they could not tell us anything about the route to Antalo, which, was still far off. We then asked whether this was the route to Bella Georgis, to which they answered in the affirmative. On asking about the residence of the Governor, we learned that he had not yet moved from the villages of Ashanghe. About ten o'clock we crossed another river, the name of which I could not ascertain. Its course was north-north-west, and it carried down a considerable quantity of water. Before we. reached this river, we could scarcely find our way through the thorns and bushes, which caused us many difficulties in advancing toward the river. Our clothes, which we were obHged to preserve as well and as long as possible, as we had no others, were considerably damaged in this thorny jungle. About eleven o'clock we reached another river. We halted a little, and coUected a quantity of ripe fruit of the wanza-tree, which appeased our appetites a Httle. From thence we passed by a village situated on the foot of a high mountain, which he had now to ascend. The country of Wofila appears to be better inhabited and cultivated than that of Angot and Lasta. Since we had left Lat, we observed many villages and tracts of land well cultivated ; but the reason is, that the destruc tion of Ras AH's war had not extended so far. • We reached the top of the mountain after mid- day. Our passage was sometimes extremely difficult and narrow. The banks of the mountain had sometimes the appearance of high waUs of rocks, a slip from whence would cause certain death. Toward the end of our ascent we observed several houses close to the way-side. We understood that they belonged to a Governor who is charged with watching the road. Nobpdy troubled us, as we had nothing that attracted their attention^ m 2 160 krapf's journey from magdala but should a traveller pass by with much luggage, he would certainly be detained by this Governor. Having reached the top of ¦ the mpuntain, we learned that the Governor Wolda Medhen with his troops had moved this morning from Zelga, and that he was expected in Bella Georgis this afternoon. This was bad news to us : however we hoped that we should be able to pass by before his arrival. We marched as quickly as possible, although we were so tired, that we could scarcely move our legs, having commenced our march before daybreak. We had two rpads before us ; one leading past, and the other north-east. The position pf Zelga, where the Governor was said to be, appeared to me precisely east. I, therefore proposed to take the route pf north-east, thinking that the distance from Zelga might be so considerable that we should not meet the Governor. But in this I was perfectly mistaken. We went on as quickly as we could ; but unfortunately we met no one who opuld give us better information of the Governor's movements. We at last saw a large village, tp which we directed our steps ; but on a sudden we were stopped by the deep and waH-like banks of a torrent. We had tjaen to turn eastward ; but having travelled about three miles more, we reached the banks of another steep hill, from which we could spe down into a Httle valley,, where a part of the Governor's troops were enpamped. Escape was now impossible, as they had seen us on the top ofthehffl. April 18, 1842. — The Governor treated them weU, and they started the next day. When we had crossed the river Ghebia, we were overtaken by vi?kmt ram- The wind and rain rendered the air rather cold, and the hard wC?k of ascending and descending the mountains and hills on foot produced a continual perspiration. Fortunately we reached in due time the village of Kararighe, where a man kindly received us into his house, lighted a fire, and made lis a litte comfortable. Falling upon my knees, I offered the sacrifice of humble thanksgiving to Him who had graciously brought me a further step on my tiresome pilgrimage. Thus it is with the life of a Christian, who is now in sorrow, and then in joy ; who Weeps in the evening, and rejoices in the morning, till his earthly journey is over, and he enjoys eternal and immutable happiness in heaven. April 19, 1842. — We left Karanghe before sunrise in a north-east- east direction. As this day was the anniversary of St. Michael the archangel, our host was gone to church before we could take leave of him. Although we had yesterday ascended considerably, yet we had to ascend this morning still more through a country full of thorns and grass. We saw, however, no village, nor did we meet any inhabitants. I was struck at the great number of partridges, which I have nowhere seen in such abundance as on this mountain. One charge would have provided us with food for several days ; but our weapons were in the hands of Adara Bine. The country around was extremely hilly, and reminded me of Geshe in northern Shoa. Torrents run between the high and steep mountains, which were full of thorns and trees of- various kinds of wood. Having reached the top of the mountain, we had a pretty view of the provinces of Wag and Semien. The mountains of Semien appeared to be elevated to the sky, till the clouds withdrew their tops from our contemplation. One of the highest mountains of Wag is Biala, on the eastern foot of which Sokota, the capital of Wag, was said to be. Here resides the present Governor, Taferri, who send£ from hence his officers at certain times over the whole country to collect tribute. 181 About ten o'clock we entered the district of Bora, the name el which is derived from the white stripes which mark all the hills around. Each stratum of rocks presents a white and somewhat grey appeiSance to the eye. There are several large caves, which might give shelter tb several hundred men. In the first village of Bora we met the Governor, Woldaa Michael. About twelve o'clock we passed the river Shemsheho, which runs to the Tacazze. It carries much water in its bed, which is surrounded on the banks with beautiful trees. The river is full of fish ; and we saw about thirty naked men busy in catching the fish with their hands. It is well known that fish is a substitute also in Abyssinia for aU other kinds of meat during the time "of fasting. I understand that the new Abuna has fprbidden the "eating of fish during the time of From the river Shemsheho, which comes from the east, we had to ascend through a wilderness, the thorns of Which again damaged our clothes, of which we took care as of gold or sUver. About three o'clock we were overtaken by thunder and lightning,, and subsequently rain, which troubled us in general every afternoon till we had reached the province of Tigre, whpre we had very little rain. For tunately we found shelter in a Pave of rocks close toHhe wayside. After the rain had ceased We continued our march, having resolved not to pass the night in the Agau country, but in the first village of Enderta, which we were told we could reach before night. We were unable, however, to accomplish this, aS the rain again overtook us. At a distance we saw a viHage on a small hill, and We thought it better to go on in the rain, than to be overtaken on the road by the approaching night. But when we came near the village, we learned to our great- astonishment, that the Governor of the district had encamped -in this place, and soon after ward we saw some soldiers coming towards us. Thus We had arrived on the frontier of the Wag country, which is decidedly one of the most important and interesting provinces of Eastern Abyssinia. It would admit a larger population and a high degree of cultivation of the soil, if a better government ruled this country. It would be necessary, however, for such a government tp do away with the system of annually plundering their own subjects, as this is the very means to destroy commerce, order, cultivation pf the ground, and every improvement of human society. At present the Governor comes annuaUy with his troops and takes away what he pleases ; and the consequence is, that the inhabitants conceal their treasures, and take flight to the mountains ; whereupon the Governor destroys their houses and fields. As Wag is a country intersected by deep dates, torrents, and steep hills, which only allow certain passages to their tops, and as the rivers of Wag would be defended, and thefr storehouses well preserved on the top of their almost impregnable hills, the inhabitants would be able to check the strongest invading army, as has been ihe case frequently in the annals of Abyssinia. Ras Ali on his last expedition, which he several years ago attempted against Wag, is a remarkable instance of this. He invaded the country with a consider able army ; but finding the natural bulwark of the country too strong, he returned; being content with devastating those districts which admitted of access. This natural fortification is the reason why the people of Wag yield only a very loose allegiance to the rulers of Gondar ; why they throw off their yoke whenever they please ; and .why they use a haughty language toward the rest of Abyssinia. The chief Governor of Wag is said to be in possession of several thousand 162 krapf's JOURNEY from magdala matchlock-guns, a report which may be true, as he can obtain every thing that he wants from Massowah. ; The principal market-place of Wag is Sokota, the capital of Wag s Governors. Its merchants carry their goods to Woldaia, the capital of Yechoo, and go and fetch other goods from Antalo, or even from Mas sowah. They are principaUy engaged' in carrying salt-pieces to the south of Wag, a business which proves of great profit to them, as the value of salt-pieces increases in the southern countries. The Agaus chiefly cultivate barley, wheat, red pepper, and maize. Their houses are of the same construction as those of other Abys sinians. I was told that gold is found in the country of Wag ; but I cannot say whether this report is true or not" I was frequently asked whether I knew how gold was to be discovered in mountains, and how_ the works in mines are managed. They entertain, Hke all other Abyssinians, the idea that white people only come to their country in quest of gold ; and that a white man knows the places where there is gold. April 20, 1842. — Early this morning I went to the Governor to thank him for his kindness, and to take leave of him. On being admitted to his presence, he appeared still more civil to me than yesterday. I did not venture, however, to ask him for provisions, and he did not offer any thing of his own accord. Having at his request given him a blessing, I started from the camp, and moved toward the river Tzana, which separates the country of Wag from that of Enderta and Tigre. This river rises in the east of the mountains of Wag and runs to the Tacazze. It is a fine river, and carries much water in its bed. Its banks are surrounded with trees and bushes, and the inhabitants of Wag and the people of Enderta on the other side cultivate every spot of soil which they can gain from the river. We arrived at this river at eleven o'clock a.m. The last part of the Wag country, through which we had traveHed this morning, was well cultivated and inhabited. This is probably owing to the inhabitants being close to the frontier of another country, to which in time of war they can take refuge. I left the Wag country With feelings of great satisfaction, although I had experienced in it a great many difficulties. Its costly water — its healthy air — its pretty scenery — the manner of its inhabitants in asking for a blessing — and its interesting system of mountains and rivers, will be ever remembered by me. To our great sorrow we learned from people coming from Antalo, the capital of Enderta, that the whole of Tigre was in a state of confusion and rebelhon. The man who had apprised us of the state of things in Tigre, like wise informed us that the expelled Governor of SiUoa had coHected a new force, and would probably come to an engagement with Guebra Medheni He therefore advised us to reach Antalo, if possible, before the road should be disturbed and rendered insecure by the fighting parties, and before starvation, which is always the consequence of such disturbances, would render our situation still more precarious. Having crossed the river Tzana, which runs in a deep bed between a range of mountains on both its banks, we had a long and difficult ascent before us. The cry of the Agau ploughmen resounded strongly in the dale of the Tzana, and made us sometimes beHeve that there was a body of troops engaged in fighting, or a brisk quarrel between some parties. I observed the same custom in many parts of Enderta. Wher. ploughing, they make as much noise as possible* in order to drive on their bullocks, with which they converse as if they were rational com-i BY LAKE HAIK, ETC. 163 panions. A traveller unacquainted with the custom, or not under standing the language, would imagine that there was a quarrel or a plundering party at hand, and give way to unnecessary apprehen sions. Having arrived on the mountain which we had been ascending since we left the river Tzana, we halted in the village of Bora, being the first village in the province of Enderta. Here we learned that Guebra Medhen had moved his camp to the east, toward the village of Shebrara. We resolved to go and see the Governor, having found from experience that it is better to travel under the protection of the Governor of a district or province. Our road led us over rocky hffls, dales, and torrents, which we cared little for, as we wished to reach the camp of Guebra Medhen before night. I can understand why the Governors of Wag and Enderta ordinarily Hve in peace with each other : the frontier of both provinces being of such a nature, that the difficulties of making inroads or entering these countries for the purpose of conquest are almost insurmountable. Having arrived in Shebrara, we learned that Guebra Medhen had moved still further to the east. We were therefore compelled to give up our intention of reaching him. to-day ; besides, it was already even ing. We then looked for a lodging for the night ; but every body in the village made an excuse, by saying that the Governor had taken their property, and rendered the people unable to receive strangers, as they had scarcely food for their own wants. With sorrowful hearts, and sometimes weeping, we went from house to house, tiH at last we found a host who gave us shelter and food for the night, which was a rainy and cold one. April 21, 1842.^Soon after day-break we departed from Shebrara. We did not, however, take our direction to the camp of Guebra Medhen, as we had been warned by our kind host not to go there, inteHigence having been received that the Raia soldiers had kiUed some people travelling from Antalo to the Wag country. Our host accompanied us for a considerable distance through a by-way, by which we were able to avoid the Governor's camp. But this by-way soon led us into a wilder ness, where we entirely lost our road. About ten o'clock we traversed a large woody plain, where we found several ruined villages, but no inhabitants whom we could ask about our road. We went on in this wilderness tiH about midday, when we found another villagej likewise ruined, but not a single person able to show us the road. We still proceeded on in an easterly direction ; but we saw nothing but thorns and ruined villages on some hills. Fatigue, thirst, and stiU more our apprehensions of the neighbouring Raia Gallas, began to vex us to a considerable degree. Being always afraid of these Gallas, I proposed to turn round to north-east and north, as this direc tion could not lead us to their country, whatever might be the conse quence. But this new route led us to a complete wilderness, where we could not observe the least trace of a human foot. The grass was so high, that we could not see one another, and one of our party was several times left behind ; a circumstance which caused the most pain ful feelings, as we could not venture to make much noise on account of the GaHas, and as the approach of night precluded us from halting, and compelled us by all means to find our right road. However, we fortu nately joined our man, whom the fatigues of the day, the height of the grass, and thicket of thorns, had prevented from keeping pace with us. But the worst part of our difficulty now began. Driven in on both sides by the steepness of mountains, which we are unable to ascend, not 1$4 KRAPF'S JOURNEY FROM MAGDALA knowing the path, we were compelled to jump from rock to roek, the spape between which was sometimes overgrown with grass. Having fortunately finished this manoeuvre, we were received again by our enemies, the thorns, through which we had to wind with the utmost prepaution. Profuse perspiration from this exercise — ^thirst and weari ness — fear of the GaHas — apprehensions as to the road and approach of the nighth— and sorrow for my poor starving people, exhausted me so much, that 1 laid down on the ground to rest, whatever might befall us in tiris precarious situation, All around being as still as night, and seeming destitute and lost, we heard the purling of some water in the neighbourhood. Creeping up and down through high grass and thorns, we reached a smaU rivulet. This discovery produced a greater cheerfulness in our minds, than the discovery pf the sources of the Nile would have given, as we now were in hope of getting put of this dreadful and endless wilderness. We first refreshed ourselves, by drinking of the deHghtful water of the rivulet, and then foHowed its northern course, in the cheerful conviction that it must lead us to our lost road. About; five o'clock we had the unutter able joy to find a road crossing the rivulet and leading up to a, moun-. tarn, from which we thought we should be able to see or to learn some thing of the ppsition of Antalo. The road was pretty large, and trodden by the paces of men and animals, and we had np more doubt of this being the way to, Antalo. Having walked about half-way up the moun tain, we were met by a small company of people, who proved to be sqme priests and soldiers of the Governor Guebra Medhen. They had set out from Antalo for the purpose of joining their master in the camp. They were astonished at finding us quite alone without a guide or a caravan in the present state of disturbances. They regretted that we had not visited their master, who, they said, would probably have given me a mule. They then cpnflrmed us in the truth of our way, which we then prosecuted as cheprfully and as quickly as our tired legs would allow. On arriving at the top of the mountain, we saw a large valley, and many villages in it. We accordingly directed our course toward the valley, and took shelter for the night in the Church of St. Michael, in the village of Mawoini, as the villagers would not, receive us. April 22, 1842. — The terrible noise of the singing priests, and still more the fleas, which are always the greatest torture to those who pass the night in churches, had annoyed me so much, that I waited for the break of day with the most ardent desire. As soon as it dawned, we got up and departed, having taken leave pf the priests last evening. On our rpad, which was exactly west, we saw plenty of villages ruined by Oubea, of whose barbarity the whole country bears witness. About nine o'clock we crossed a rivulet caUed Gumalo. It runs through a dale of steep banks. On the western banks we saw a viUage, which we topk for Antalo, as the priests of Mawoini had told us that Antalo was quite close, and that we should reach it in the forenoon ; but I frequently found that priests and monks in Abyssinia have not thp least idea of distances. Having "crossed the rivulet Gumalo, we had to ascend ponsiderally till we reached the village, likewise caned Gumalo. The banks of the bed of the rivulet are well cultivated, as the soil can be -wakened at all times. From Gumalo we marched south west, and wpre led to an immense plain with some shght eleva- tiong. On arriving at this plain, we got a sight of Antalo, situated at the foot of a mountain, the soil of whiph presented a red appearance. The plain, however, was considerably lower than the situation of Antalo ; and the nearer we approached the town, the more we had to ascend. BY LAKE HAIK, ETG. 165 Wheji we first saw it, we thought it nearer than it really was, as is frequently the case when a traveller calculates distances from a plain. He is often greatly disappointed, and it requires more practice in calculating distances, than one would commonly think. We arrived at Antalo about four o'clock. Being unable to find a lodging for the night, we repaired to the Church of St. George, which * was splendidly built by Ras Wolda Selassieh, whp is well known by Mr. Salt's Mission to this rider. I had intended, for many important reasons, to proceed from Antalo to Adowah ; but the distance pf three or four days deviation from my route, the way being thrpugh starving and disturbed countries, and my ardent desire to reach Massowah, and the end of my miseries and hard ships, would not allow me to make this deviation from my road, although I knew that I should deprive myself of much valuable informa tion respecting the state of the country, which I might have been able to coHept at Adowah. April 23, 1842. — At a very early hour this morning we set out for Antalo to CheHcut, about six or eight miles from Antalo. A body of soldiers, •AteSel'afc' Who were going to join Balgadaraia on his march to Adowah, accom panied us for a considerable distance. They were in a very good humour, and had great hopes of a favourable result of their master's expedition. Our road was pretty plain. Not far from Antalo we saw an immense flock of baboons, called in Amharic Ratchie, of a somewhat white colour. They were close to the wayside. I was surprised at the gopd order in which they marched, some large ones walking before and bghind each line, which they formed. After a few moments they halted a Httle and gazed at us, as if they were about to make an attack upon us, They marched round a smaH elevated spot, and then crossed our rpa,d, where they again halted a Httle, till they walked up to a larger hill in as perfect order as if they had been ranged in a square. The noise which their movements produced exactly resembled the bustle of a small body of horse marching over a grass plot. I thought it Would be weU were the Abyssinian soldiers in their miHtary movements to imitate these bmtes in the regularity of their march and continual circum spection and reconnoitring. This kind of monkey is generaUy acknow ledged by the Abyssinians as a sort of more ferocious ape. CheHcut is situated in a Httle dale intersected by a rivulet which provides the town with water. This situation in Europe would give rise to the establishment of numerous manufactories ; but in Abyssinia nobody thinks or exerts himself to make use pf the benefits arising frpm the nature of the country. The inhabitants are ready to accept with the greatest eagerness pleasing things as presents ; but they have Httle desire to manufacture them by hard labour. Having heard that thgpe was in CheHcut an Armenian who worked in leather, I called upon him ; but, I found him suffering in his eyes, I did not venture to ask , him for a supply of anything, as I was aware of his being a poor man ; but even the offer of a piece of bread, or a horn pf Abyssinian beer, whieb at-all events he possessed, would have dehghted me more than anything else ; but he appeared during his stay in Abyssinia to have adopted the same unkind and inhospitable manners which the greater part of the Abyssinians observe towards an unfortunate traveller. .jTrpm OheHput, we took our direction tp Adigrate. Our road was pretty plain. Sometimes we had to ascend a sHght hiU. But although we had now a better road compared with that in Lasta and Wag, yet we were considerably inconvenienced from not having plenty of water, wjjich we had found in abundance in those countries, Besides this, thp 166 KRAPF'S JOURNEY FROM MAGDALA heat of the valleys of Tigre was an addition to those inconveniences, with which our journey through that country abounded, from the in hospitable reception of the natives, and from the rumours of war and dissoluteness of the soldiers. The approach of the evening reminded us of our unpleasant business of begging the people for a night's lodging. For this purpose we halted in a village caned Arena Mariam, at some distance from the wayside. Having waited for some time on a place where most of the villagers could see us and guess our demands, we were invited by a man who was bleeding a sick bullock before his house. He sent us to a wretched cottage close to his house. This cottage, which served as a stable for his cattle at night, was surrounded by a stone wall, and only a part of the roof was sHghtly covered with grass. As the proprietor had invited us of his own accord, his duty was to treat us with some attention, but we had ourselves to look out for oursupplies for the night. My servants went out begging, and returned with some flour, which we begged the wife of our host to make into bread ; but she positively refused to do it, except she had a share of the flour, which was scarcely sufficient to provide half a ration for each of our party. The other materials, wood and water, we of course had to fetch ourselves. After a long dispute she gave us the vessels in order that we might prepare the bread. On giving us the vessels, she said, "I am giving them for my soul's sake.' ' We had rain at night ; but fortunately not much, as our stable would not take off the water. I felt great consolation in thinking of the approaching termination of our journey, and I troubled myself little about the increase or decrease- of difficulties. April 24, 1842. — The "unkind treatment of our host hurried our departure from Arena Mariam. Probably on our arrival he had expected that I could cure his buUock with charms, and with this expectation per haps invited us to pass the night with him ; but as soon as he found himself disappointed, he took no further notice of us. The road to-day and the nature of the country was almost the same as we observed yesterday, namely, plains, with sHght hills. The want of water was again very perceptible, and we seldom saw a viHage or a hamlet. The soil was stony, and not particularly fit for cultivation. We found no water till we reached the river Haikamesal, which runs to the Tacazze. Before we crossed this river, we met a man, who hearing of our distress for want of food, gave us a Httle basso. This is the flour of barley, which is first roasted on the fire in a vessel of , clay, and then ground. When mixed up with water, it is no bad food ; and it is quickly prepared when you are on a journey. We accepted this present from the man with cordial thanks, as our scanty repast of yesterday evening had left us nothing for this day, and the villages were far off from the wayside ; so that we should have tasted nothing at all to-day, if Providence had not inclined this man to provide us with as much food as was requisite for our starving bodies. Having refreshed ourselves with the water of Haikamesal and with the basso, we continued our march, in the cheerful confidence that He who feeds the birds, would also feed us in the evening, the approach of which always caused painful feelings in our minds, since we had ex perienced the inhospitality of the Tigrians. Had we possessed some property, we should not have been at a loss ; for if the Tigrians see property, they will seldom be inhospitable. Such was the case with those travellers who overvalued Abyssinian hospitahty. But let these persons travel without money, or without articles passing for money, ETC. 167 and you wiU find that they will give another, but more correct idea and description of Abyssinian hospitality. About midday we were met by a man, who informed us, with tears in his eyes, that he had been deprived by soldiers on the road of his provisions, his sword, and his cloth. We were sorry that we could not help him. At the same time our sorrow and apprehensions of perhaps sharing the same fate in the course of the day, caused us to look with anxiety and timidity after those places which we thought dangerous, and where we might fall in with a roving party of robbers. But our heavenly Father, who well knew that our sufferings had already been considerable, graciously preserved and protected us, and brought us to a village caHed Maberka, where, although a stable full of fleas was given as our lodging, and a sour look and other unkind treatment wounded our hearts, yet we were content with a few horns of beer and some paste caUed teUo, being confident that we were daily advancing nearer to the sea coast. Tello is prepared from the flour of barley. The barley is first boiled in a Httle hot water, and then roasted in a vessel of clay. It is then ground, and the flour is mixed up with water, or oil, or the Abyssinian pepper-soup. It is indeed a Very miserable and disgusting dish ; but necessity had taught us to despise nothing. April 25, 1842. — This morning at a very early hour we left Maberka, and halted a few hours afterward in the village of Atzbie, where I teamed that a European had been there a few days ago. • Having left Atzbie, the attack of fever, which had commenced this morning, increased. It was occasioned most likely in consequence of my steeping last night outside the house on the wet ground in the cold, and without sufficient bedding. The fleas had tormented me so much, that I was compelled to risk sleeping outside the house. Happily, we were met by the same man whp had yesterday given us some basso. As his village was close to the wayside, he observed us after we had passed by the village, and ran after us, and caUed us to his house. This invitation was certainly most providentially, not only because we had taken a wrong route toward the Shoho country, but still more as our halting in his house reheved rne from fever. I had first hot water pre pared for a foot bath, and then took a Httle coffee and went to sleep. On getting up I felt considerably better. We then ate and drank whatever .our kind host placed before us ; and having refreshed ourselves, we resumed our march. May God in His mercy give the man his reward in heavenly and eternal goods and blessings for the kind assist ance which he gave me when help was needed ! The meeting with this man yesterday and this morning, when we were in great distress, was indeed one of my most remarkable experiences on the whole journey, and clearly showed me the Divine interposition. I was told by my host that we were only a distance of five days journey to the village of Borre on the coast of the Red Sea ; but that the road was extremely dangerous, and that nobody would guide us there for fear of being murdered by the Danakil. Last year some Christian merchants endeavoured to open that route ; but they were all killed by the Danakil. However, the Danakil bring merchandize from Borre to Tigre ; but they will not allow other people to- go down. As Borre is not far from Mocha, I should have liked to have gone this road ; but who would guide me, how could I afford the means for the guide, and where had I other means of defence ? Travellers, however, well provided and armed, might succeed in opening a road, which would be of the greatest importance for the intercourse with Tigre. 16.8 KRAPF'S JOURNEY FROM MAGDALA Adigrate to Degonta or Tekunda. The, white appearance of the mountains of this district struck me much, having nowhere observed it before. Our road was generally plain, and I should think camels might be able to go from Atzbie to Antalo. In the evening we halted in the village of Masaot. As thp villagers would not receive us, we went to the Church of St. Michael, the priests of which proved to be very light-minded, and frivolous in their conver sation and manners. April 26, 1842.— -As there was a priest in Masaot, who promised to leave the place in a few days on a journey to Shoa, I availed myself of this opportunity to write a few lines to Gapt. Harris, Her Majesty's representative in Shoa, to inform him of my safe arrival in Tigre. The priest promised to take charge of my letter. We intended to take our direction toward Senafe to the Shoho country ; but we were advised not to do so in the present circumstances of the unsettled state of things m Tigre. We therefore marched toward Adigrate. At nine o'clock we reached the market Gooila, and halted at midday in the village of Agoddi. Here we went into a house to beg for some food, as we were exceedingly hungry. TeUo, mixed up with pfl and red pepper, was again offered to us ; but it had a better taste than formerly. The man who received us into his house, bitterly complained of Oubea's tyranny last year against the district, when he plundered and burnt their houses. To our right we saw the high mountain Haramat, where Cassai made his defence before he was imprisoned by an artifice of Oubea, who swore eight times before ninety priests that he would do no harm to Cassai, if he would surrender himself and his stronghold. Cassai did so ; but was immediately put in chains ; and the priests, who reminded Oubea of his solemn, oaths, were also imprisoned. April 27, 1842. — We departed early from the village of Mashagheriar- Mariam, where we had rested last night. About nine o'clock we arrived in Adigrate. I went to the Church of St. Chirkos, which, I was told, had been built by Mr. Eiohinger, the German carpenter who was with Mr. Gobat in Tigre. The form of the interior does not differ from other churches, though there is more regularity observed, and is richly embelhshed with paintings and piotures, representing Hons, elephants, hyaenas, &c. It is a square building ; but in other respects it is Hke the rest of the Abyssinian churches. The priests recoUected Mi. Eichinger, as weH as Mr. Gobat. One of them gave me some flour, and his wife also baked a few cakes for our use on the road. I could not help thinking in my mind that probably this priest had experienced much kindness from Mr. Gobat, which he was now desirous of re turning to me. Adigrate is situated in a large plain, surrounded by mountains. The village is not very large, and at present almost the whole is in ruins. It was built by Sabagadis, if I am not mistaken. The present Governor is Ayto Beraki, who however was not at home, having set out with Bal- gadarai on the expedition above mentioned. Before we entered the viUage we crossed a small rivulet, which suppHes the villagers with water. We did not stop long ; but continued our mar oh. On the left we saw a large village, which they called Ker- saber, being much larger than Adigrate; Our road this afternoon was not so plain as it had . been for several days. Near the village of Mamberot we received some beer and basso from a man, whom the narrative of our journey had affected. He was ready -to sell some grain ; but what oOuld we give in return ? My head- 6Y LAKE HAIK, ETC. 169 Servant, Atkoo, agreed to sell his belt, saying, it was better to do so than to starve. We then bought some barley and hogs' beans. After wards we went to the church of Mamberot ; but as there was no priest, we could not pass the night in the church. We then endeavoured to beg for a lodging in the viHage ; but aU our petitions were in vain, till a man offered a stable, which was sufficient to shelter us against the coldness of the night and the wild beasts. Our situation daily became worse with the increase of the inhospitaHty of the Tigrians. We had traveHed through a very hilly country, which was not much cultivated, probably .for want of water. April 28, 1842. — We left Mamberot with sunrise. Our direction was north-east. We marched through a very rocky territory, and but Httle cultivated and peopled. Here and there we saw a hamlet on the wayside. In the village of Dagadi we got some bread and beer. From thence our direction was east. We arrived at Behat about three o'clock P.M. We intended to stay here tiH the next day, in order to inquire after our road, and to collect some provisions for our journey through the Shoho counjjy ; but when we appHed to the principal priest, whom we met on our way, we got the rude answer — " There is the road; do not stop here : rest somewhere else. We have no room for you." This roughness made us so sad, that we resolved to use our utmost endeavours to leave Tigre as quick as possible. Behat is a large village, situated in a plain. Before we entered this plain, we had a very difficult and steep descent. Having passed the village, we had to ascend >gain and to march toward Teltal, a part of the Shoho country. Having reached the summit of the.mountain, which we had been ascending since we left Behat, we came to another exten sive plain, which was much cultivated and peopled, being surrounded by villages. This plain is the eastern boundary of Tigre, beyond which plain in the east there are no more Christians. On our road we had heard from a merchant that the people of Senafe were very bad and fanatic Mahomedans ; and that we could not travel close to the Shoho country without a guide or some other kind of pro tection. He therefore advised us to go to one of the numerous villages around, and to wait for the market- people, who, coming from a market in the neighbourhood, would pass Senafe to-morrow ; and with them we should go to Tekunda, where the Governor, Ayto Habta Michael, would send us to Massowah. This intelHgence was most providential, and indeed saved our lives, because, had we not known this, we should have continued our march, and should either have been entirely stript by the people of Senafe, or killed by the Shohos, as we did not know* the road, and should have been led to the Shoho villages, which we should have taken for villages of Tigre. Having obtained this important information, we went to the church of St. George, in the village of Shemasana. April 29, 1842. — At daybreak this morning we set out from Me- shaikh, the market people being desirous of departing before the heat would be too powerful. They came from the market of the viUage of Tchegnara, which was held yesterday. I was most fortunate in having joined this party, as the Governor of Senafe, a very ferocious looking Shoho, stood in the way, and declared that he would not allow the Egyptian to pass before he had paid him a doUar. Having settled the business with the Shoho of Senafe, we proceeded on our road with the caffila through a stony and woody wilderness, being pontinuaUy apprehensive of a body of Shohos attacking us from the east of Our route. This woody wilderness, which was full of juniper- 170 KRAPF'S JOURNEY FROM MAGDALA trees, is exactly the place for a gang of robbers, as they could break: forth on all sides from the wood and catch you up in the narrow rocky road. About nine o'clock we found a well of good water. Here we halted till the whole party had assembled, and then the caffila separated, each individual taking the direction to his own village. Some took the direction to Halai, in the north ; while we proceeded with some people to Tekunda, which is at present the usual starting place from Tigre to Arkeeko. I understood that an arrangement had lately been made between the new Naib of Arkeeko, whose name is Hassan, and Ayto Habta Michael, the Governor of Tekunda, that the Halai route should be given up, and that of Tekunda substituted. It appears that the Governor of Halai had a quarrel with the Naib, who opened another, and I must add, a much better route to Tigre. We arrived at Tekunda after ten o'clock. April 30, 1842. — The Governor promised this morning that he would send to the next Shoho village for a guide to take us to Arkeeko, as the Shohos would kiU us if we traveHed through their country without having a guide from them ; but that this guide would^equire a dollar for his trip to Dohono or Harkeeko — not Arkeeko, as we always pronounce according to the maps. I said, that I had no money ; but that I should be able to procure some at Massowah. He said, " It does not signify : the Shoho must wait, and I will wait also, till you have got money." It is customary for the Shoho guide to receive half a doHar, and the other half is given to the Governor ; but I beHeve the Abys sinians pay only half a doHar to the guide, and nothing to the Governor. However, I would not bargain about this, as the Governor showed me much kindness in my distress. May 1, 1842. — This morning the Governor settled the matter with the Shoho guide and wished us to depart ; but the Shoho wanted his money to be paid before moving from Tekundo. - To this I would not consent. Then the Shoho requested me to make oath that I would not leave him in the lurch at Dohono. I repHed, that whether I made oath or not, it would be the same thing, as it would depend on the man who would lend me money at Arkeeko or Massowah ; that if any one would lend me money, I would pay him without taking an oath ; and that if no one would lend me money, the oath would be useless, as I could not pay him. It would therefore be better for him not to press this matter, but to go with me to Dohono, beheving on my word. Tekunda to At length the Shoho gave in, and we immediately left Tekunda. Arkeeko. After ; walking about a mile we reached a well, which is the spring of a river running to the Samhar. The people of Tekunda must go thus far to fetch their water. Tegunda is a smaU hamlet, situated on a hill ; but it is now important on account of the communication with the sea, and I beHeve I am the first European who went this new route, which however falls into the old road after you have travelled about ten mites. I was delighted with having seen the beginning of a river, which runs from this point as far as the sea, some distance from Arkeeko ; but the river is dry during the hot season, and the traveller finds water only at certain places. As far as I could ascertain without a compass, it runs first from south to north, then to north-east-east. We had a very good and plain road through a woody wilderness. It is much superior to the road of Halai, which leads over the difficult mount of Shumfaito. On the Tekunda road you descend by degrees, and the road might be trodden even by camels, if it could be improved a little by removing some rocks in the way. We saw several burial grounds on our road. On passing by, our BT LAKE HAIK, ETC. 171 guide always recited certain prayers, the nature of which I could not make out, as he did not understand either Amharic or Arabic. The appearance of graves in the wilderness also produced a deep impression on my own mind. About eleven o'clock we arrived at that part of the Tekunda road which joins that of Halaia. I immediately knew this route, and we afterward came to a few high trees, where the camels are usually discharged and sent back to the coast. I recollected the spot weU, where, four years ago, I had three days quarrel with the Shohos for the hiring of bullocks to carry my luggage up the mount Shumfaito. May 2, 1842. — With ardent desire we saluted the approach of this day, which should bring us almost to the end of our miserable journey We arose about four o'clock ; and although my legs would scarcely move, in consequence of the exertions of yesterday over the stony bed of the torrent, through which the road led us, yet the anticipation of my journey's end gave me, I might say, more than human strength. We traveHed almost the whole day, although the heat in the narrow vaUey was very excessive. About two o'clock p.m., we arrived at a place, where the guide told us that we were to take water, as at this season. no water would be found till we reached Arkeeko. We then filled a large water-bag, which the Governor of Tekunda had given us for the road, the guide being ordered to take it back to Tekunda. We tra veHed on till after night, when my tegs were so tired and sleep overtook me, that I frequently feU down on the ground. Thirst and hunger also tormented me to the utmost. The more I drank, the more I got thirsty ; and the few hogs' beans which my people stiU carried with them, did not satisfy my appetite. After night-fail I had requested from the guide to let us have a rest anywhere in the wilderness, as it was almost impos sible for me to move any further ; but he declared that he could not stop on account of the Bedouins and the wild beasts, and that we should go further on tiH he would point out a proper spot; I said, " All this does not signify, let us only rest a few hours." However, I continued marching for some time ; but as the guide would stall not Hsten to me, I laid down on the ground, and said, " You may now do as you Hke : you may stop or go ; for my part I wfll not move from here till I have rested a few hours." He then gave in, and we rested on the sand only a few yards from the wayside. In this situation we were most for tunate. I did not think that the Bedouins strolled over the wilderness at such an early hour — about two o'clock in the morning. But a party of Shohos passed the very road where we were sleeping. Probably they were of Waia, a Shoho place a few miles distant from us. Happily. they did not observe us, probably taking our figures for stones. Besides, they were talking so loud, and making so much noise, that they did not hear the snoring of my people. Only the guide and myself awoke from their noisy conversation ; but we kept sflence as much as possible, till they had passed altogether. I was in a very melancholy and apprehen sive situation at this moment, as I did not know whether they were friends or enemies. I could not however expect that a Shoho, who is an enemy in the day, would be a friend at night. As soon as they had passedby without observing us, we resolved to depart. The moon just rose, being in her wane. The idea that we were so close to the coast, and that any unfortunate occurrence should happen, gave us courage and strength to reach the coast as quickly as possible. Besides, hunger, thirst, and weariness, drove us on. The immense plain of Arkeeko annoyed us very much. We saw the place from a distance ; but although 172 DR. BEKE'S JOURNEY FROM DEBRA TABOR we exerted ourselves to the utmost, it still appeared distant and unat tainable. About nine o'clock a.m. we reached the wells of water close to Ar keeko, We first paid a hearty welcome to this water, as ours was all. gone. We then moved, almost half-lamed, toward the house of the Governor, whom we happened to meet on the road. He ordered his servants to give us a room and to make us comfortable. DR. BEKE'S JOURNEY FROM DEBRA TABOR BY SOCOTA AND ANTALO TO ADOWA, IN MARCH AND APRIL, 1842 (marked Q and L in Map, page 39). March 12$,.— I remained -at Mahdera Mariam over the Saturday's weekly market, in order to inquire as to the state of the country beyond Antalo, it being reported unsafe to travel through, but could obtain no defi nite informatipn on the subject. Nevertheless, I this morning left for Debra Tabor on my way north-eastward, it being my determination not to go to the so oft trodden road of Dembea and Semien, if it could by any means be avoided. The road is very irregular, winding up the moun tains, and crossing the rivers Sebat-Wddem-GrTimara and Sehsaho- Gumara, the latter being the principal stream of those bearing the common name of Gumara, which have their rise in the high range of Mount Guna, bounding the basin of Lake Tzana to the E., or perhaps more correctly the S.E. The country, as" far as I have seen it, is but scantily peopled, and Httle cultivated ; to the westward, however, the low flat country towards Lake Tzana is said to be extremely fertile. Debra Tabor, where we arrived soon after noon, was founded by Ras Guksa, the grandfather of the present Ras AH, who made the title hereditary in his family, and whose remains He buried in the church of " Yesus," situate on an elevation of the ridge between the basins of the) Gumara and Reb, which elevation is properly Debra Tabor, the capital of that name being placed on its skirt to the north-eastward. This town was last year burned down by Dejach Biru, shortly after my arrival in Goj'am, and is not yet rebuilt, it consisting for the greater part of a rude assemblage of mere huts. On announcing myself at the palace, and stating, in answer to numerous mquiries, from whence I came, Where 1 was. going, &c, &c, I was not allowed the honour of an interview, the Ras (as I was told) being apprehensive that I might have brought "medicine" from his enemy Biru Goshu. But his curiosity led him, notwithstanding, to come out and view me from a distance, arid he even Went so far as to send for my cap to look at. He readily consented, However, to my journey through his country, and gaVe me a guide t° Ebenat, the residence of Dejach A'bbie, ordering me a supply of food until my departure. From D6bra Tabor, LaHbala was said- to bear N. SO6 E. ; the road thither, gentle travelling, is as follows :— Mokeria, Chaat Waha, Dibukko, then cross the Takkazie to LaHbala, Beyond this one day's journey farther to Imefeha. Mount Guna bore from hence S.E. Beyond it are Wadela and Daunt, between which arid Amhara the River Bashilo is the boundary. The head of the Bashilo said to bear E.S.E. from D6bra Tabor. Isti, S. 15° E., about seven miles; Yefag, N.' (50° W., one day's journey; Mount Melza, N. 20a E. lAsth. — fhis morning I left D6bra Tabor without holding any further communication with the Ras. We now descended into the valley of the- BY SOCOTA AND ANTALO TO ADOWA. 173 Reb, crossing on the way the Gibuda, a tributary of the former, nearly of the same size as the principal river of the name of Gumara. The Reb itself is of larger size, than any of the Gumaras, being at the ford at least 10 yards hi width, but shaUow — that is, less than a foot in depth. Lower down, however, when all the latter rivers have united and formed one stream, the Gumara is said to become a more considerable river than the other. On crossing the Reb we entered the district of Ebenat, and began gently ascending the mountain towards the residence of the Governor, which bears the same name. In about three hours we reached the summit, when we came to a plain on the N. side of Mount Melza,, a cross ridge of the range of mountains forming the watershed between Lake Tzana and the river Takkazie. The elevation of this plain I cannot estimate at much, if anything, above 7,000 feet. Crossing it north-westward, we, towards evening, approached Ebenat; but it not being considered proper for me to make my appearance before the Governor so late in the day, we turned off to a small village called Griltoch, situate close to the" first break in the ground towards the Takkazie, and near to a small brook named Sankisa, the waters of which descend towards that river. Beyond Debra Tabor the country improves somewhat in its character and appearance, being, although still mountainous, of more even surface, and possessing more population and cultivation. From Gultoch Mount Melza bore S. 35° E. 15th. — Ebenat, whither we went up this morning, is a place of no size, consisting merely of the residences of the Dejazmach and his family, with a few huts for their attendants. The market is, however, very considerable — lasting two days, Friday and Saturday— it being the point where the merchants of Gojam, &c, meet those from Sokota bringing salt, for which they give cloths, coffee, and a large number of cattle, oxen, and heifers brought from Gudera. Farther from Ebenat they do not go eastward, this being a cross-road. The two grand mer cantile lines from N. to S. through Abyssinia are, the one by Adowa and Gondar. (or Derita), and the other by Antalo and Sokota to Warra- hemano , besides which, as I have learned since leaving Mahdera Mariam, there exists a middle road from thence by the way of Hadesha in Belessa (Belessen) and Tembien, which is sometimes taken by thp Baso merchants going to the coast. The Gpvernor of Ebenat is a Mohammedan ; and many of the inhabitants of this country are of the same reHgion. Islamism is, in fact, making strides over Abyssinia (as it. is through the Galla countries in the S.), numbers of the Christians continually passing over to it. I am now writing (at Ebenat), whilst in my hut chatting with my servants are two of their relations, natives of Gojam, settled here, both of whom have become Moslems. Mount Guna bore S.S.E. ; Mount Melza, S. 55° & ; Mount Debra Tabor, S. 10° W. 21st. — I remained at Ebenat over the market, intending to leave for Sokota with the merchants returning thither on Saturday evening. Bui the two servants whom Walda Georgis had engaged, and who had thus far -conducted themselves to my entire satisfaction, having here fallen in with several friends and acquaintances, merchants from Yaush,, were by them ill-advised and frightened, and on the Saturday morning, when preparations were being commenced for * our journey, they " struck," The one, having obtained from me a dollar " to send home to his family," left without hinting his intention to any one, and was not. to be found ; the other, after refusing all day to accompany me farther, was at length in the evening induced by Walda Georgis (whose relation he is) to go on with him. But it was now too late, for the N 174 dr. beke's journey from debra tabor merchants for Sokota had lpft, so that we were compelled to w^ii, tiH we could find another opportunity of proceeding on our journey. This occurred f>p-day, when the Dejazmach (wbp had previously refused tp furnish me with a guide) being on the point of proceeding to Debra Tjibor, wliither he had been summoned by the Ras, in consequence of reports of the hostile approach of Dejach Biru Gpslui, I was "forwarded by him to Nikwara, the rcsictence of Fitanrari Siyum', through the petty shums of £he interveiiing country, in pie sa:me way that I was "passed" through Damot in Ijpcember and January last. On leaving Epenat ihis inorning, the road lay at first for a short distance N. by E., through a riot cultivated valley, when it began ascending the mountains north eastward, crossing a ridge of the name of Jirzu to the N- pf the river 'Tekken, the ridge of Melza (already mentioned) being to the S., and bofh being portions of the range bounding the Takkazie to the west ward, of which Amba Hai and thp mountains of Semien are also part- The summit of the ridge crossed by me, which I rate at probably 8,000 feet' above the sea, is covered with oHve-trees in such numbers as to form complete woods. This tree is cpnrmpn throughout Abyssinia, but I never met with it in suph abundance as herp. After continuing over the tolerably level summit for seme time, we reached the viHage of Zibakwaha, pvprlooking the river Tekken, where we put up fpr the night. From Zibakwaha, Zqz-amba, a remarkable flat-topped isolated mountain, bore N. 20° E. beyond the river NiH. LaHbala said to bear fromhenpe $'. 6P° E. 22nd. — We did not leavp Zibakwaha jbiH the afternoon, as we were told that wp .could not reach Nikwiijra, to-day i The real reason was, howpver, that pur host of last night was unwilHng to see me farther than the neighbouring village of A'derseg, distant less than a couple of hours' ride, its bearing being about N.E. pf pur last station. 23rd.— Nof^thstanding -what we Had been tpld of the distance of Nikwara, we reached it this morning before noon, our course being" about E.S.E. Shortly after leaving A'derseg we crossed the river Tekken, forming tite boundary of the district of E^enaf. Its bed is about ten yards in width, but in the prpsent season it is for the nipst part dry, there being merely two sjiallow streams, of twp yards and one yard in breadth, running through it. The country of Biegeinider, from tlie risp pf the basin of Lake Tzana eastward, is a mass/ of inpuntains intersected by deep valleys, getting more barren and desolate the farther one pro ceeds. In Ebenat they said that the counfry was formerly peopled, 'and at Zifyakwalia, they pointed oujb tp me the sites pf several villages, the inhabitants of which, they said, have' either died off or removed in con sequence pf the oppression of the present governor. Whatever may be the truth pf this statement, it is quite certain that, this is not; the sole nor even the principal reason, since after passing the limits of the Dejazmach's jurisdiction, so far from finding improvement, the country appeared to nie to get worse- It is the scarcity of water that is the main cause pf its deserted state. At, one pf the villages on the road, where we stopped to change our guide, tb^e distance that the women hsuf to go to fetch water for domestic purposes was quite appalling. In Europe, Biegemider is said to be noted for its fine 'flpqks of sheep, and the name of the country has been derived ffoni foe wprd bag, meaning " sheep." But it is only necessary to see the country tp be satisfied that it never was and neyer can be a sheep ppuntry.' *rhe high WpHq plains to the S.E. are, on the. contrary, justly celebrated for their flnp breed of lpng-wooled sheep, the fleeces of whteb are prized throughput the whole of Abyssinia, being worn oyer the shoulders by person's even of the BY BOGOTA AND ANTALO TO ADOWA- l?.5 highest rank. From Nikwara, Mount Melza bore S. 45° W.; and LaHbala was said to bear S- 75° E. 24jh. — Fitaurari Siyum being at A'zwi, a short distance to the E. of Nikwara, we left this morning for that place, which we reached by nopn. The barren mountainous country is so far from improving, that during a ride of nearly five hours I did not pass a single viUage, or cross or coine within sight of a single brook or spring. From A'zwi, Zoz-amba bore N: 45° E. ; and the valley of the Merri, between Lasta and Waag, N. 85° E. ; Mount Melza, S. 65° W. ; Mount Biala, a high mountain mass above Sokota, N. 75° E. ; LaHbala said to bear S. 65° E., four days' journey, or three quick travelling. 27th. — Yesterday, on Fitaurari Siyum' s leaving for Nikwara, he recommended me to the care of his brother Aito Hailu, whom I was to accompany across the Takkazie. The latter accompanied the Fitaurari a part of his way, but returned this morning ; and by his direction I removed to the village of Dugalaiba, a|}put a mite Ipwer down, he having taken up there his quarters for the day. 4$ ^ugalaiba I was informed that Tzelasferri and Mekkina are two A'mbas. in fjasta, on the opposite sides of the river Takkazie, the former being beyond phe river towards Wadela ; the latter on this side towards LaHbala-* The head pf the Takkazie is less than a day's journey bpyqnd Lalftjala. To Laiibajq, from Dugalaiba is three days' slow travelling ; quick, it, may be reached in two days. The first day Bugana in L^sfa is reached ; the second day Lalibala. The head of the Takkazie is in the district of Gedan, beyond which is A'ngot. All the opposite E. side of ^.e Takkazie, from Waag to Gedan, is Lasta. 28th- — This morning early we left Dugalaiba ; pur road kept- descend ing north-eastward, at the end very steep,, jalj we agapi came tp the river Tekken, down the bed of which we continued, going now more eastward, for nearly two hours, incessantly crossing the small stream : if I counted right, it was 36 times in all. 0n reaching the junction of Jhis river with the Takkazie, we stopped to rest during the heat of the day, Aito Hailu at the same time superintending the coHection of duty from a numerous party of salt-merchants passing into Biegemidpr from gdkota. In the afternoon we continued our journey, crossing the Takkazie and entering Lasta. Qur course was for about half-an-hojir N.E. "down the bed of' the river, the "stream of which we crossed three times before we left it. From this fact' alone it will be evident that the river is of no great size here. At the places wbere we entered it it was some 20 yards wide, with a depth of about a foot, running briskly, but by no means with violence : at the deeper part of the stream it was less than iten yards in width, whilst the current seemed scarcely to possess motion. The elevation Here of the bed of thp river above the ocean must, I think, be about 4,000 feet. ' Since the . destruction of my ther mometer I have no means of deciding as to heights beyond my personal judgment, grounded on past experience : no certain dependence is there fore to be placed on my estimates ; nevertheless they may not be alto gether without value as rough approximations. We continued down thg'jakkazie till we reached the river Merri, an affluent of the fornier, of about "the same size as the Tekken, along the side of which wp ascended, and then crossing it we began a steep ascent to the high land of Lasta. It was near sunset' when' we reached Zetesa, the residence of Aito HEtilu, who is the Simm pf A'bam, a subdivision 'of Dahana, as- * This is totally irreconcilable with tlie information given by Mr. Salt iri Ma ' '-' Voyage to Abyssinia/? p. 279, on the authority of "Pearce. ' ' ': N 2 176 DR. BEKE'S JOURNEY FROM DEBRA TABOR the country to the N. of the Merri is called: beyond that river to the southward is Biiguna. These two districts, together with those of Sokota or Waag Proper, Wofila, and Bora, form the dominions of the Waag Shum — to caU him Dejazmach would be an insult — who is one of the most important chiefs of Abyssinia, and whose territories are far more extensive than one can have any idea of from the existing maps. Even at the present day, when the empire of Abyssinia exists only in name, the Waag Shum, although in a great measure subjected by the Ras, is not looked upon as a dependent chief bound to pay tribute ; whilst the King of Shoa, although virtually an independent sovereign, is considered tlie governor of a province, who does not render tribute simply because the Negus (or his representative the Ras) has not the power to enforce its payment, but who, if the empire were reinstated, would do so as formerly, which the Waag Shum never did and never would. It is to be remarked that neither Sahela Salassie, Negus- of Shoa, Goshu Zaudie, Dejazmach of Gojam and Damot, Gehanecho, Thato of Kaffa, nor any other of the numerous descendants of the imperial family in the female line, has the sHghtest pretensions to succeed, now or here after, to the imperial throne, the right to which is subject to the same law as as that regulating the descent pf the crown of Israel — the power of selection among the males of the royal family ; but with total exclu sion of aU claiming descent only through females. From Zelesa, the head of the river Merri bore S. 75° E. ; Nagala (high country), S. 20° W. ; Aunanur, an Amba, with a convent of that name thereon, in Mekfet, S. 5° W. ; the high country of- Wadela, stretching from S. to S. 30° E. ; the river Berberi-wans is between Aunanur and Wadela, and joins the Takkazie. LaHbala, said to bear S. 50° E., three days' journey slow, or two days' quick travelling. '30th. — I remained a day at Zetesa, and this morning proceeded on my journey eastward towards Sokota, ascending the mountains between the valley of the Merri and that of the Sabbaha, a smaller affluent of the Takkazie, the summit bearing the name of Narbilu ; and in about three hours we reached the high level country — the elevation of which I estimate at from 6,500 to 7,000 feet — over which we continued E. a couple of hours longer, when we came to Gor-amba, the residence of a relative of my late host. The language of the inhabitants of the vaHey of the^ Takkazie and of Waag generally is the A'gau — the native name is Hhamera — in a dialect not near so harsh as that of A'gaumider, and to which (remarkably enough) the language of the Falashas of the latter country bears a closer resemblance than it does to that of the people among whom they are now residing. At Gor-amba the position of LaHbala was visible, (which, at all other stations, it had not been,) bearing S. 40° E., two days' journey, or perhaps thirty miles. Tzelas- ferri is beyond LaHbala, about half a day's journey ; Mdkkina nearer than TzeMsferri to LaHbala, and the Takkazie runs between them. Mekkina is the same as the head of the river. The road from D6bra Tabor to LaHbala is good, being plain. The head of the Bashilo is a long way off, said to bear about S.S.E. of Gor-amba. At tins place were further visible Mount Guna, bearing S. 35° W., and Mount Biala, N. 80° E. 3\st. — Beyond Gor-amba the plain country ceases, and the road con tinues winding, on a general bearing of E.N.E., along the summit of the ridge — sometimes only a few yards in width— between the valleys of the Sabbaha and the Mizrib, a tributary of the Merri. After about two hours there is another flat, but of no very great extent, and then again a narrow ridge between the Mizrib and the A'rri, a tributary of BY SOCOTA AND ANTALO TO ADOWA. 177 the Takkazie. The mountain-ridge thus traversed bears the name of Amdawark ; and I am told that the whole of Lasta is a succession of ridges and valleys Hke this. The flat summits of the mountain, which, being nearly the same throughout, give one at a distance the idea of an uninterrupted plain Hke Gojam, may be estimated to be throughout somewhere about thefheight last mentioned. In six hours after leaving Gor-amba we stopped at Sikuna, formerly said to have been a convent of celebrity, but now reduced to a few huts, situate under the preci pitous face of the rocks bounding the basin of the Arri. From Sikuna the summit of Mount Biala bears N. 85° E., and Mount Gazgibla, the head of the river Merri, S. 70° E. April 1st. —It was my desire to reach this evening Maskalo, the resi dence of the Dejazmach of Dahana (or Dahana Shum, as he is called here), and therefore I was off early from Sikuna. But on reaching Eitara, the frontier-post of Waag Proper, distant about five miles E. by N., I was stopped by the " custom-house officers," and, in spite of aU I could say or do, detained until the Dahana Shum's pleasure was known, for which purpose Walda Georgis and a servant of Aito Hailu, who had accompanied ng, were despatched to Maskalo. I in the meanwhile re mained encamped in a fine level plain, forming a portion of the ridge along which our road still continued, whilst my detainers were employed in collecting the duty from the salt-merchants arrived to-day from Sokota ; and in the evening I was taken by the Shum to the small vfl- lage of Katzeman, there to wait the return of our messengers. 3rd. Yesterday morning Walda Georgia returned with orders from the Dahana Shum that I should instantly be forwarded with my luggage, &c, without molestation ; however, it was not till this morning that I started. The road continued eastward over the mountains, which now form the southern boundary of the basin, first of the Arri, and after wards of the Telia, another tributary of the Takkazie, tiH in rather more than six hours we reached Maskalo— properly Maskala Kristos— a, town with a convent at the foot of Mount Biala, which the present Dahana Shum has chosen for his residence, although not within his government, in order that he may be near Sokota, the capital of his brother the Waag Shum, Mount Biala (which is sometimes caHed Mount Maskalo) is a prominent portion of a large mountain-range which appa rently descends from the system in which the Takkazie has its source, and which range, running northward or north-westward, separates the basin of the upper course of that river from that of the Tzelari, a river of which I shall have occasion to speak in the sequel. The summit of Mount Biala bears from Maskalo S. 75° E. 4dh. — Leaving Maskalo this morning in company with the Dahana Shum, who fortunately was going to Sokota on business, a sharp ride of about five hours N.E. by N. brought us to the latter place. The road skirts the foot of Mount Biala, crossing spurs from it, and then traversing a tolerably level country it descends to the capital. Sokota is a place of considerable size, but is so very straggling that it is not easy to form a definite idea on the subject. It has a large market, held on Tuesday and Wednesday weekly, which is frequented by the mer chants of the south and west, this place being the great centre of the salt-trade, the Tigre merchants coming thus far only, and then returning. By walking about half a mile eastward from the town to the summit of a low ridge of mountains, I obtained a view of the country to the E, beyond the [river Tzelari, some portions of which were pointed out to me by a person who accompanied me. A'shangi (this being the name of a district), distant two days' journey, bears from Sokota about S. 178 DR. BEKE'S JOUliNEY FROM DEBJtA TABOR 80° E. The first day's journey is up the rhountains to Zaffa in Wdffla, bearing S, 60°' E. The lake of A 'shangi is between A' shangi and Wdffla;' arid Lake Machakh (the smaller lake of A 'shangi) is in Wdffla, being to the S. of the large one. The rivers of A'shangi go to Raia, which is below the foriner; beyond it being Zdbul, and then Adal. A'shangi belongs to Tigre, and Wdffla to Waag, but the language' cf both is that of Tigre : the inhabitants are Mohammedans. The Raia Gallas are generally pagans, but there are Mohammedans among them. Further, from this spot Mount Adamahdrini, in the district of Eb'alH in Tigre, bore N. 70° E., below it to the left being Bora. The vaUey of the river Sassela, coming from Wdflia and joining the Tzelari, S. 75° E. Mount Biala, S. 15° W.'j Warrahemano, S. 15° E.^ 6th. — I had fully calculated on a detention at Sokota of several days. Oh applying, however, to the Waag Shum for a guide to Tigre, he readily gave me one, and I left this morning early. My road of to-day was travelled for the mpst part in company with a numerous party of Tigre merchants; who had brought amole to Sokota, and were noW re turning with cloths, mules, and oxen. They had left over-night, en camping by, the small river Mai Lomi, a tributary (I beHeve) of the Tzelari, along which the road descended N. for about an hour, and then leaving it, it ascended, keeping on N. during the whole morning along what appeared to be a ridge of the mountains bdtinding the Tzelari to the W. Soon after noon we began a sharp descent from this ridge, and came into the dry bed of the river Shagalu, down which we continued till evening, when we .came to the Tzelari, which we crossed, and then ascending from it a Httle way, encamped for the night in the open air. The Tzelari is a river of considerable size, which rising to the eastward of the head of the Takkazie, receives a large proportion of the waters of Lasta as far as Wdffla, and being afterwards joined by the Zamra, a river of smaller size rising in Wojjerat, the united stream falls into the Takkazie, Which by this accession must be fuHy doubled in size. The country traversed by these rivers is very different from the rest of Abyssinia, being for the most part an almost uncultivated, desert, sandy tract, of much inferior elevation, and almost entirely devoid of water ; the so-called rivers being mere wadies, which are filled with water only during the rainy season. The Shagalu, down the bed of which we de scended to-day, has a great resemblance to the Wady KeUu on the road from Tajurrah to Shoa; with this difference, however; that the latter contained good water along its Whole extent, whilst during two arid a half hours' march down the bed of the former we came to only one spring and weU, the water of which was filthy. The later season of the year has perhaps something to do with this. The elevation of the bed of the Tzelari can certainly not exceed 4,000 feet. The desert tract thus traversed by this river forms the natural boundary between Lasta "and Tigre, as it does between the Agau and Tigre languages. In order to prevent misunderstanding it is proper to remark here that Waag is the name of the northern portion of Lasta, the southern portion being known as Lasta Proper. Li Waag itself they repudiate the. designation of Lasta, but throughout the rest of Abyssinia both Waag and Lasta Proper pass under the general appellation. It is the same with Gojam. The inhabitants distinguish between Gojam, Dainot, Enabsie; &c. ; but on this side the Abai t^ife whole peninsula is styled Gojani. So too, in fact, with Tigre, Amhara, and Shoa. ^ 7y<,.— Leaving tlte Tzelari, the road began ascendmg gradually north ward foij more than ah hour to Sakka, frohi whence Mount Biala was just visible, bearing S. '59 E., arid then continued stiU N. Oyer a level by sobotA And antalo to ADO#A. 179 barren country till, ifi about three hours, we reached the Zaihra, winch forms the frontier, between the province of Bdra in Waag arid that of Saldwa in Tigre, by the side of which river we encamped during the heat of the day. The district betweeri the two fivers through -winch our route lay is not properly Bdra, but Zebad, a dependency of the former, which lies farther to the E. In the afternoon we went on N. for about a couple of hours more, to the village of Fenarwa, where we stopped for the night. At FenarWa, Mount Adamahdnni bore S., 55J E. 8th. — Frbm FenarWa we continued gradually ascending E.N.E., and then E. byN. towards the high land of Tigre, the country improving by slow degrees, the sandy soil and Waiit of water being opposed to vegeta tion, In near six hours we reached the town of Samrie, the residence of the, -governor of Salowa, where we stopped. From, hence Mount Biala bore S. 15° W., and Mount A'mbera, ah isolated peak rising froiri the Koila (low country) of Ternblen, N. 35° W. Samrie is the salt- market of Tigre, in direct corf esporidence With Sokota in Lasta, and the difference in the valri'e of dmole on the' Opposite sides pf the desert is very marked; here 50 or moregoirig to the dollar, andttiere drily about 40. M Ebenat the tiumber has, already decreased to about 30 ; arid pri crossing the Abai drily 25 Pr 20 iire obtained, the fate,, falling its flip distance increases. It is 'not to be iniagined that the difference all falls td the merchant : in fact, 1 have in the course of these pages given more than orie instance of the teyyihg of duty bri these dmole in their passage across, the bdturfcry, which duty fofrri's nd uriirii^dftarit item of the revenue of .the native princes and governors. 9th. — Dejach tftie being in the field against Baalgada Araia, a grand son of Ras Walda Salassie, and being encamped a Httle way from Antalo, I this morning proceeded tp his camp, which I reached after a ride of about five hours N.E. by N., the ground continuing to rise gradually till the table-land of Tigre is reached. 1 had been, told that when We arrived here We should find it Hke Gojain : as yet, however, the cHffer- enCe between the two countries is very marked both tb.rriy eyes and to those of iny servants, whp ppnstaritly exclaim (and with perfect truth) that they nave riot yet seen a country like their own. The grand cause of the superiority of the peninsula of Gojam appears to be, that the elevated ritoirntairis in the bentre of it collect the waters of the heavens more or less at all seasons of the year, so that the numerous rivers de scending from them, although they, decrease considerably in thp, dry season, are riever cjuite dry. The .Dejaziriach's canip.was by the, village of Astaj about four or five miles almost due E. of Antalo, which tbvt;n is however not visible, it lying, aS I was told, just on the other, side ^of sofrie low lulls. On arriving in camp I went up to the gate of the De- jaszinach's Court to ,&nhouncp myself, wherb I Waited soirie time till the DeJEtziriach's eunuch cariie. but. After inquiring as, to my Ppiiritry, my . journey, isrc., he refused to aririoiirice me to the Dejazmach, notwith standing my repeated request, and although I said I required nd more frprii'him than I had obtained from thp Ras and the other chiefs, through whose countries I had passed — a guide. 1 had therefore rip alternative but to return to rriy baggage, which I had left below ; and finding sbihe uriticcupied huts in the camp, I took possession of them with my people, andjjassed the night there. Fi-Om hpncb Mount Alajji in Wdjjerat bore S; §9° E.- • .Mount Adkmahdrini, said to be beyond it, was not visible. 13th. — The following iriornirig I Went up to the Dejazmach's,. but; With no better Siicbbss thari before ; so that I returned, leaving, Walcta Geo'fgfS to negotiate with the feunucli, who on tHC promise of a, dbljajt-,-^ one of my remaining twd— engaged to prbCttrb from the Dejazriiacn a 180 DR. BEKE'S JOURNEY FROM DEBRA TABOR, ETC. guide to Tembien, the direct road to Massowah through Agamie, as also that to A'dowa by Giralta, being rendered impassable|by the rebels. To this arrangement I could make no objection ; on the contrary, I was rather pleased than otherwise, as the circuitous, route enabled me to visit an additional, though small, tract of new country.. As to my approaching the Dejazmach, this was utterly denied me, for what reason I am not able to say. But notwithstanding the arrangement made with the ennuch, it was not till this morning that the guide was given me, and in the meanwhile I had to remain in my miserable quarters, and to shift for myself as well as I could. On leaving the camp this morning, the road led north-westward, over an almost level country, with the exception of a ridge bounding to the eastward the vaUey cf the smaU river Durgebaa, a tributary of the Arekwa, which latter stream (I was informed) has its course sepo/tately to the Takkazie. After a ride of about four hours and a half we reached the viUage of Kabari, where the guide, as directed, found us quarters for the night. \4&h. — Our journey of to-day was, if anything, less than that of yesterday, owing to the delay and difficulty caused by the constant changing of guides. In about two hours and a half after leaving our resting-place, our course being about N.W., we came to the brink of the valley of the river Gebaa (Gibba), over which we had an extensive view, and down the side of which we now began descending. In about a couple of hours more we were compeUed to stop at the village of A'dega Musie, the persons who were now caUed on to see us across the river into Tembien refusing tp take charge of us till the morning. As far as the Gebaa the whole country is Saharte, a subdivision of Enderta- 15ih. — This morning we started long before daylight, and, descending a little way farther, began crossing N. the level plain through which the Gebaa winds. This river, which, Hke the Arpkwa, has its course separately to the Takkazie, is not more than about six or eight yards broad at the ford, and quite shaUow. In rather more than five hours N.N.W. we reached the town of A'biyad, where we stopped.. We were here in view of the high mountains of Semien, stretching from W.S.W~ to W., which were, however, but imperfectly seen from their being enveloped in clouds and mist. Mount Ambera in Tembien, bore N.. 85° W„ A'biyad is the principal place of Tembien, and a large market town. 1 6th. — The Shum of A'biyad sent a man on .with me this morning to the Mohammedan village of Takirakira, about an hour's ride distant to the N, with orders to the Shum there to see me across the river Worei,, the boundary between Tembien and Tigre Proper; but the valley of that river being said to be infested by the Baalgada's people, he refused to take charge of me. I sent back to A'biyad, but could get no redress ; and consequently had only to sit quietly down in Takirakira till I could make some other arrangement. From this place Mount Ambera bore S. 80° W. The mountains of Semien were not visible. 19th. — The Shum of Takirakira had refused to take charge of me, but he was very civil in advising me as to the road, &c, and this morning some of his people leaving for A'dowa and the neighbourhood, ho wilHngly consented that I should accompany them on my own responsibility. Descending north-westward towards the river Worei, we, in about five hours and a half, crossed that stream, a good-sized brook, forming at the ford an almost stagnant pool, and then began ascending the valley of the Gwaliero, a tributary of the former.. From. the Worei, a ride of about three hours, in general bearing about N., brought us to the village of Nania, where we alighted.. RUPPEl/S JOURNEY PROM HALAI TO ADDIGRAHT 181 20th. — From this place in about eight hours I arrived in safety at A'dowa, om- course being N. by W. Here I received a most hearty welcome from the European residents, consisting of Mr. Schimper, the German naturalist, and the Abbate de Jacobis, with the other members of the Roman CathoHc mission to this country. Nothing could equal the kindness of these gentlemen in supplying me with everything neces sary after the privations to which, in consequence of my limited funds, I had unavoidably been subjected, especially during the latter portion of my journey ; and they laid me under still further obHgations by fmnishing me with the means of continuing my journey to the coast. Having thus, through God's mercy, arrived at a place so well known from the number of Europeans who have visited it, my further journev can present nothing of novelty ; and I therefore here close my journal." RUPPEL'S JOURNEY FROM HALAI TO ADDIGRAHT, MAY 1832 (marked N in Map, page 39).. 10th May. — TraveHed over an undulating plain with low shrubs. After three-quarters of an hour passed on the right a village on a hill, caUed Sambi. Trees then became scarcer, and after another half-hour, he reached a large viUage, called Dera ; then through a deep ravine to a vaUey with meadows. Passed Burhanet village on a steep hiU on the right, and encamped at the village of Wokhne, where there is a pool and meadows. The whole march Occupied two and a-half hours (an- hour's march is about two and a-half miles). 11th May. — Ascended a steep narrow path, and reached a high plateau, neaf a large village, called Auhenne. Soon afterwards he passed Artegeh; the land barren and uncultivated. After three and a-half hours' march he reached a steep slope, which he descended into a narrow vaUey with- meadows, and encamped about half a^mile south-west of Dogonta. Grass was found only in the valleys, and isolated shrubs of acacias, roses, &c, on the plateau. 13th May. — Went for a quarter of an hour across a table-land, sloping to the east. At the end of half an hour from starting ascended a hill of sandstone breccia, to the foot of a steep terrace, with shrubs. At the end of an hour, he reached the summit by a difficult road. The plateau was undulating, with loose pieces of gravel, and low shrubs, and uninhabited. The district is caUed Kaskasse. The road then led between steep heights of Hme marl, and after a three and a-half hours' march, he encamped near Sanafe. 14ed of the river afford a constant and copious supply of that necessary fluid. During the rains in the upper country, the floods of the Hadas and of its large tributary the AHgaddi (with respect to which river I shall have to trouble you with a few remarks on some other occasion), find their way down into the sea, and often render the river itself im passable. " In February, 1866, my wife and I found the dry bed of the river be tween Adule and Zulla to be 25 or 30 yards broad ; and at about a mile nearer the sea we came to wells sunk in the sandy soil, at which numerous homed cattle were being watered; small, well-shaped fat beasts, giving a dehcious rich milk, the pasture at that time of the year being plentiful almost down to the sea-side. " From Zulla we went five or six miles further inland, and struck the dry watercourse at three different points. Had the natives been weU dis posed, we should have gone on to Hamhamrno, which was not more than six miles from our extreme point, and we should then have had the satisfaction of coming to water actually in the bed of the river, within one march from the sea-shore. But, though disappointed in this, we succeeded in finding, the road from Zulla to Hamhainmo, Which, instead of following the circuitous course of the Hadas, goes directly across the country, making the distance of Hamhamrno from the sea- coast not more than 16 geographical mites : from the weUs near Zulla it is only 13 miles. " In. the following month of March we went from Massowah into Abyssinia by the modern caravan road taken by Bruce, Salt, Riippell, Krapf and numerous other Europeans, and in May we returned to the coast by the same road. In doing bq we had to traverse 26 miles of ANSLEY BAY _ TO TOHONDA. 185 low and barren country between Arkiko and Hamhtimmo, where no regular supply of water is to be had ; and instead of continuing up the bed of the Hadas to its source, we stopped at about 10 miles below Tohonda, and turned up the steep side of the valiey by the pass of Shumfaito, of a similar character to the adjacent and better known pass of Taranta. " We -took seven clays' slow travelling between Arkiko and Halai on the road up, including the stoppage at the foot of Shumfaito, whence we had to send to Halai for bullocks to replace the camels which had brought our baggage thus far, and we were four days in retm-ning. The actual time we were on our mules' backs (from which we had to alight at only two or three difficult spots), was twenty-five hours going from the sea up into Abyssinia, and twenty hours and three-quarters coming down. Of these intervals, respectively, five hours were spent in ascend ing, and three Hours and a half in descending Shumfaito. Had we con tinued straight up the vaUey of the Hadas to its source near Tohdnda, we should have avoided the steep mountain, and the time of our journey would still have been about the same, by a road gradually rising and practicable for camels almost all the way to the summit. " At Halai, at an elevation of upwards of 8,400 feet, or a mile and a half perpendicular height above the ocean, we had reached the table land of Abyssinia ; and yet we were so close to the coast— from the head of Annesley Bay it is Httle more than twenty geographical mites as the crow flies ! — that we could perceive the sea beyond Arkiko to the north of us, and hear the firing of cannon at Massowah ; while to the south and south-west, for hundreds of miles, extended the Abyssinian table-land, of which Amba Magdala is a detached spur, at a lower ele vation than the table-land itself, approachable by a practicable road through Agame, Enderta, Bora, Woffla, &c, without crossing the Tak- kazye or any other large river, a considerable portion of which road has been trodden by myself. Such are the difficulties and dangers of pene trating into Abyssinia ! " In the course of ages Adulis became a large city and port, whence the kings of the Axumites, who were of sufficient importance to form alliances with the Byzantine emperors on equal terms, sent their fleets and armies across the Red Sea to subdue the whole coast of Arabia from Leuke Come to Sabsea. " Whilst AduHs was thus a flourishing port, a commercial station was established at Senafe, on the edge of the table-land, a few miles south-east of Tohdnda, of which place the remains still exist. Senafe appears to have supplanted Halai (Coloe) as the intermediate station between AduHs and Axum ; and its commanding position must soon have led to the opening of other communications between it and the sea, which is doubtless visible from it both to the north and to the east, its distance in a direct line to Harena in Howalril Bay being forty-eight geographical miles,, to Zulla forty- three miles, and to the south encl of Annesley Bay only thirty-eight miles. " The ascent to Senafe from the east and north, through the district of Bure, is said to be equally good with that by the way of Tohdnda, the former being the direct road from the great salt plain of Harho, which suppHes Abyssinia with its present currency, pieces of rock-salt. When Mr. Salt was in Abyssinia he made many inquiries about this road, through Bure, which his friend-Ras Walda Selasye assured him was the best approach from the coast, it being only four days' journey to Antalo, his capital, and well. suppHed with both water and cattle; *'The short distance of Senafe from the sea, fromwhich4t might, if 183 DESCRIPTION OP THE DIFFERENT DIVISIONS expedient, be approached in more than one direction, points it out as the best' position to be occupied by an invading army on its entrance into the' country. The desirabiHty 'of getting away as quickly as pos sible, not merely from the intensely hot shores of the Red Sea, but likewise from the intervening elevations of 2,000, 3,000, and even 4,000 feet, to the fresh and bracing climate and clear atmosphere enjoyed at upwards of a mile and a half above the ocean — for Senafe is of even greater elevation than Halai — does not require to be insisted on. " The occupation of the passes from the salt place, and the conse quent control of the supply of that valuable and necessary commodity, might form a very important strategical operation. In' addition to all this, Senafe is the nearest point to Magdala, it being less than. 200 miles distant from that fortress, and all the way on the healthy table land. ' " From what is here stated, it will be seen that there is good reason for the opinion that when the Greeks of Egypt founded Adulis, at the mouth of the Hadas, they held in their hands the Key of Abyssinia ; and there can be Httle doubt that the French were aware of this wben they attempted in 1859 to acquire possession of that place and of Valentia Island (Orine), as is described in page 58 of my work, ' The British Captives in Abyssinia.' May those to whom the preparations for the contemplated expedition into Abyssinia are entrusted know how to profit by the experience of others who have preceded them ! " Charles Beke;" DESCRIPTION OF THE DIFFERENT DIVISIONS OF THE 'PROVINCES OF TIGRE AND AMHARA IN ABYSSINIA, taken from the travels of Combes and Tainisier, and supplemented from those pf Salt. Province of Tigre. Sire. Is bounded on the north by the ChangaUa, on the west by the Tacaze, on the south by Adet and Temben, on the east by Axoum. It consists generaUy of vast plateaux, intersected by deep valleys ; a few mountains of small elevation are found in it. On the borders of the Tacaze, and to the north, great numbers pf elephants and giraffes are found. To the south of Sire are the districts of Adet and Temben, the latter is traversed by high chains of mountains, and inhabited by Mussulmans. Bora and Salowa to the south, belong to the kingdom of Laste, they are mountainous and cold. The first extends to Lake Ashangi, and tb the eas]t is the Httle province of Wofela ; the rains that fall in the latter have -no means of escape, and form marshes which render it unhealthy. . Salt says, Bora and Salowa form two mountainous districts north ward of Lasf,a, and between them and the Tacazze He the comparative low countries of Waag and Guahn, which are inhabited by Christian Agows. To the north of Wofela is Wojjerat, which is much less elevated than the neighbouring regions, and might .almost be classed in the low country ; its- inhabitants, however, having freed themselves from the Gallas, having remained Tigreens. It is one of the most wooded districts of Abyssinia, and its forests contain many wild animals, par ticularly elephants apd rhinoceroses. OF THE..P,R.Qy;NPES: Of TIGRE, ETC. 187 Salt says, Wojjerat is a wild country, abounding in elephants, Hons, rhinoceroses, and every species of game. It is said that the rains are not so periodical as in the pest of Abyssinia, owing possibly to the forests with which it is covered. Enderta is situated to the north of Wojjerat ; Antalo, its capital, is a fine town built on the slope of a hill; its neighbourhood is 'fertile, beautiful, and well watered. To tlie east of Antalo is the district of Desa, which adjoins Mantille, separated only by one chain of mountains from the Dobas and Wojjerat. Salt says, to it (Enderta) are subordinate the districts of Derra, Asme, Womburta, Desa, Muntilla, and Moribs; mountainous districts forming by their position, the eastern boundaries of Tigre. It also embraces within its limits the territories of Moculla, Dirbale, Gambela, Upper and Lower Gibba," Wazza, Sakarti, and Gii'ulta. ' 'To the south-west are the countries of Ouombourta, Asma, Derra. Giralta is situate to the ri'orth-west of Antalp ; it touches Temben on the west, and Haramat on the north- It is very riiountainous! Agame is one of "the most important provinces, of Tigre, it is bounded on the west by a great chain pf mountains, stretching from Haramat to the river Belessa ; to the south by Enderta, to the' east by the high lands of the Taltal and the plain from, which salt is procured. This province is extremely fertile, it produces every sort of grain, and even wine ; but it has been fnuch impoverished ' by wars '> colossal mountains dominate over it. Salt describes Agame as a rich and fertile territory, owing in a great measure to its being situated on a level, at a considerable elevation above the sea, which in the torrid climates generally ensure these advantages. It has for its eastern frontier part of the lofty ridges of mountams which ' extend from Senafe to Taranta, and its stronghold bordering on the Tal-tal, together with its vicinity to the salt plains, render it of great importance in the country. "Laoue, Gunduftafte, Halai, Agguela, and Larai, which are on the caravan road from Adpwa and Gondar to the sea, are to the north of Aganri; although their soil is fertile, yet in the dry ' season the springs are nearly dried up, and merchants are obHged to take another route.' The rich province of Mamasien is to the north-west of these dis tricts; it is 'bounded on the east by the Shokos, ori the north by the tribes of Bicharri, Bekla, and 'Boja, to the south-west by S.eraweh, to the south it is prolonged to the Mareb. Hamasin and Sara>yeh resem ble Sire in climate and productions. The territory pf Tigre, whose capital is Adowa, is bounded on the west by Sire, on the sbuthrwest by Tefriben an<| Adet, on the south by Giralta, on the south-east by Haramat, ori the east' by 4-game, and on the north by thp rivers Mareb and Belessa. The inountalhs to the east of Adowa are very high, the range runs down the centre of the pro vince/the generaT character being a range of hiU forts or ambas, inter sected by deep gulhes, and highly cultivated plains. Lasta is "also classed with Tigre. This province which has also given its name to the kingdom of which it now forms part, is bounded on the west by the Tchera-Agpus, op" the north by the Ejjon-Galla, on the south-east by Angot, and on the north by Bora and Ouofila. Lasta is very mountainous, and whole armies have been known to die of cold there. Tlie inhabitants are wariike. Salt describes Lasta as being covered with rugged, and almost inac cessible mouijtairis. 188 DESCRIPTION OF THE DIFFERENT DIVISIONS, ETC. Province of Amhara. Semen is the highest country in Abyssinia; its moir: tains are almost always covered with snow on their .highest points, and ice is not unknown. ' The Amba-Hai, and the Amba-Beyeda are the most remark able mountains of this country. Salt says this province may undoubtedly be considered as the highest point of land in Abyssinia, the whole range of its mountains extending in a northerly and southerly direction, about 80 miles. Oaldubba, situated to the north-west of Semen, between the Tacazze and the Angrab, extends as far as the junction of those two rivers, and is low and unhealthy. Oualhait is to the west of Oaldubba, it is intersected through its whole length by the two rivers, Toukour and Guangue. It is more wooded than Oaldubba. Mimosas abound. Woggara is one of the richest provinces of Abyssinia; it is bounded on the east by the mountains of Semen, on the south by the plain of Belessa, and to the west by the territory of Tchelga ; it possesses fine pastures, numerous cattle, which produce much butter and milk ; it produces corn and barley, the provisions are cheap, and the inhabitants live in abundance. Tchelga is bounded on the north by Oualkait, on the east by Woggara, on the south by Dembea, and on the west by the Abyssinian boundary, it is almost entirely inhabited by Mussulmen. Kouara is to the west of Dembea, between Ras-el-fil (so called from its vast forests), Kouara, and Tchelga, is the province of Dembea, which reaches to the great lake Tzana. This province is flat, and owes its great fertility to the Sludge of the lake which retires sensibly. This country possesses the best corn in Abyssinia. The rich plain of Belessa adjoins Woggara, and that part of Semen, called Meuna. This country is bounded on the west by a high chain of mountains from which terrible storms, often of rain, descend in the rainy season ; on their flat tops are the wooded provinces of Ouenadega and Mariam-Ouaha. To the south of the latter is Begemeder. Foggera, which extends from the River Goumara to Emfras, is a low country traversed here and there by hills, which extend from Mariam-Ouaha and Ouenadega to the lake. It contains only miserable villages with the exception of Caroda, which owes its importance to a church ; Ifag celebrated for its market, is in this province : both these places produce good wine. Between this country, the Nile, and Bege meder, is the little district of Daro. To the south is the country of Maiaha, bounded on the east by Gojam, and on the south by the country of the Agows. This province is covered with torrents, and small veins forming ponds and marshes, which breed dangerous fevers. Corn and cattle are produced in it. The Damot-Agous are shut in between Gojam, the Basso Galla, the Gonga, Kouara, Dembea, and Maicha. The country is rich in honey, butter, and cattle, the climate temperate, and soil productive. To the west of the Damot are Basso-Galla, the country is fertile. The name of Gojam is sometimes given to the whole country situated in the semicircle of the Blue Nile, it is a country of extra ordinary fertility, has immense meadows and magnificent pastures. The oxen are the most famous in Abyssinia, the horses were the same, but are now disappearing. Begemeder is bounded on the west by the Nile, on the north by Fpggera and Belessa, on the east by Lasta, and on the south by COMBES AND^ TAMISIER— JOURNEY FROM MASSOWAH. 189 Bachilo. This provinco is less mountainous than Semen, nevertheless great chains defend it against Lasta ; towards the north it is covered by woods, to the south it is entirely destitute of trees. The horses are much esteemed and the flocks are innumerable. Amhara, properly so called, extends between the Rivers Ouahet and Bachelot, it is bounded on the west by the Nile, which separates it from Gojam, and on the east by Lasta and Ingot. MM. COMBES AND TAMISIER— JOURNEY FROM MAS SOWAH TO ADOWA, BY THE TARANTA PASS, APRIL, 1835 (marked D and I on Map, page 39). April 15th. From Massowah to Arkiko, one hour. — The latter the smafler town. Water of wells at Arkiko bad. In the rainy season plenty of water in the small torrent of Oues. 17th. From Arkiko to Ohilloki. — Camels and mules having arrived, they left for the south through the Samhar, inhabited by the tribe of Hazortas. Two and a half hours' march up a gradual ascent, the atmos phere improving at every step, brought them to the dry torrent Catra. GazeUes and large partridges very numerous. An hour's more march brought them to high chains of rocky mountains covered with trees, which grew out of the clefts of the rocks. After traversing alternately narrow gorges and beautiful shady valleys, they arrived at an eminence called ChilloM, covered with green wood. C_ 18th. From ChilloM to Hamhamo. — They advanced for several hours among shady mountains, covered with flowers, and arrived at the valley of Hamhamo, which appeared an enchanted garden. It is surrounded by lofty mountains, well wooded, and abounds with gazeUes. At the other end they found a stream which runs the whole year, the first good water they had drunk since leaving Arkiko. On the slopes of the mountains were flocks of sheep and goats, tended by Bedouins. 19th. From Hamhamo to Manta Sangla. — The road had become rocky and difficult, the trees less numerous, the aspect of country was barren and rugged, but grand and picturesque. Chains of mountains still more elevated appeared in every direction. The pass became stiU narrower hemmed in between enormous mountains. Two hours after leaving Hamhamo they reached a brook ; the road widened out, verdure and flowers appeared. They had entered the vaUey of Dobara, a green spot among majestic mountains. They foHowed the stream for some time and then reached another in the vaUey of Manta Sangla. 20th. Manta Sangla to Ghoumfaitou. — After traversing a stony mountainous track, they arrived at the vaUey of Tahtai-Tobo, watered by a brook, a beautiful spot well wooded. In another hour, following the water-course, they arrived at HaUa-Toboj by a road which, although difficult, and hemmed in between arid mountains, was admirable. They traversed the vaUey of Assanba, arid reached Choumfaitou at the foot of Mount Taranta. They encamped under a tree full of monkeys. In the night they were disturbed by hyaanas. 21st. Ghoumfaitou to Halai. — The baggage Was shifted to bullocks to mount the Taranta Pass. An abundant stream flowed at the foot of the mountain. Two roads lead to Halai, one less difficult and wider for beasts of burden, the other shorter and steeper, only UBed by foot travellers. They chose the latter. The sun was hot, and they climbed with difficulty among dry trees, and aloes, and rocks. On approaching the top the trees were greener. Devoured with thirst, they reached the o 1^6 MM. COMBES' AND TAMISrER'S JOURNlES guirimit, after six hours' hard Walking. After some time longer they reached Halai. The plateau of Halai is covered with resinous trees arid much corn is cultivated. It is watered by a large and deep torrent, and on all sides great chains of mountains are visible. The viUage contains about 250 inhabitants. Large herds and flocks of cattle and sheep are found there. After the heat of the valley they found the cold intense, and were obliged to give up the idea of sleeping in the open air. They entered the house of the chief where they sat round a good fire. Their goods; arriyed on bullocks and they bought mules to ride. They travelled with tents. t _ 24dh. Halai to Marda. — They chose the most direct route to Adowa and did not go by Dixan. On starting they perceived great mountain masses on every side, for " Abyssinia is nothing but an immense moun tain, cut up by profound and narrow valleys washed by impetuous torrents." After half an hour's inarch, they perceived on the right the hamlet of Samdi on the slope of a HiU. Numerous flocks fed around. After passing the village of Deura which overlooks a vast weU culti vated plain, traversed by an easy path, -they went through several wbbd& of sabines and mimosas,- amid a charming landscape. They passed a chief and his attendants, some mounted oh mules, some on horses, armed with lances, bucklers, and curved swords. After night-fall, they pitched their tents in the viUage of Marda. They had descended to Marda, and did not feel the' cold there as at Taranta. It is watered by brooks of deHeious water. 2S^ef Marda to Seda.— -They turned out of the road to avoid the custom-house of Gondaftafe. 'The path was rough and difficult ; moun tains oh every side, shaded by numerous sabines and ohves, soon re placed by dried up mimosas and the coll-qual. They passed several tor-rents and villages, and, after foirr hours' march, reached Mogouscas, where they found an abundant spring. The road became then much obstructed by stones and trees. After long ascents and descents, they reached the hamlet of Seda, built on the slope of a mountain, having passed the great village of Achera-Damchel on their right three-quarters pf an bpuf before. The view from the hill above Seda was beautiful"; in front' Was a large and fertile valley shut in between two chains of mPuri- tains, which Were broken up' and distorted, . and covered with rocks, presenting a great contrast to the fortuity of the valley and the rich vegetation of the plain which stretched beyond. . 26lh. Sida to a desert place.— Aftev traversing a beautiful valley, they dismounted under a thick shade of trees, to escape the excessive heat. Peasants were feeding their flocks. About three, p.jT., .they started again, and having' passed the debris of the mountains Which shelter Gu'eurzobo, they entered the great plain", almost -entirely uncul tivated, which stretched before them. After traversing for a long time a. .very easy road, they encariiped at nightfall in a desert place ; rairi obHged them to ditch then' tent. 27th. To 'Emni-Harmas. — They soon left the plain, and, traversing hills covered with gravel and encumbered with dry trees, they reached an immense -valley, watered by the great brook Serena. They again crossed similar mils, and reached another plain, traversed by the river of ^Belessa, wbich they followed some distance in a south-south-east direction. They turned out of their road to visit some missionaries at Erhni-Harmas, a village to the south. • $0th. Emni-Harmas to a village. — The mountains on every side were white. and arid, but the villages were surrounded with trees, and' tie valleys covered with rich vegetation. FROM MASSOWAfl AND ADO%A. 191 1st May.— They descended by a difficult path to the River Ounguea, the boundary of the province of Agguela. The plain watered by this river is carefully cultivated. After passing it they entered the moun tains. The road, traced parallel to the torrent, was rocky and difficult. After a long march they rested by a brook named Kebita, near the village Zeban-GuUa, They then ascended a high mountain, from whose summit they discovered a great number of vUlages. The country appeared less wooded than that they had traversed. They then descended into an immense and magnificent vaUey, covered with culti vated fields, green meadows, and beautiful trees, and traversed in its whole length by a brook, which floods it in the rains. On the right was the broken chain of black mountains, which had been indicated to them at Halai as near Adowa. They entered the niburitain gorge which terminates the valley. Heavy rain feU, they lost the track and bivpu- 2nd May.— They regained the road, and after passing a steep hill, entered a less extensive vaUey than the last, called Rdbber-Aepi (Ribieraini of Bruce). They traversed this fertile valley in a direction from east to west, and arrived at the church of Mariam- Chaouilou. They traversed the brook Assa, and arrived at Adowa, a town of 3,000 inhabitants. MM. COMBES AND TAMISIER.— JOURNEY FROST ADOWA TO DEVRA TABOR, BY THE SELKI MOUNTAINS, JUN^, 1835 (marked K on Map page 39). 30th June. — FOf two hours the road was easy, through magnificent nrairies .and cultivation. Then they had to mount and descend very steep mountairis. Violent rains fell. They reached a viUage, where tney were refused hospitality. They then climbed a mountain, arid traversed a plateau, at the end of which they arrived at Adde-HeusS. ,- . .. lsf July. — The rOad was as fatiguing as. on the previous day, although t£e scenery was beautiful. The. ground was. heavy with mud, ahcLilje difficulty of the road obliged them generally to dismount from their mule's. After marching five Hours, they reached Devra-Guerinet,,.a |feautiful village situated ori the top of a hill, with a deep torrent at its foot. , 2nd July. — They had been joined by 1,000 soldiers of Oubi's arrriy. They arrived at a spring, which in the dry season is the only one inet with on this rOad. After climbing a high mountain, a beautiful spectacle burst on their sight. Before them was the vaUey of the Tacazze, and tlie three chains of mountains of Semen, massed one upon the other. The descent Was very difficult, and in spite of the rains they found no water. The country Was arid, the sun hot, and immense rocks obstructed the path. At the end of an hour they reached the village of Jibagoua. Jibagoua is without springs, and in the dry season a traveUer who traversed this country alone would be in danger of perish ing for want of water. 3rd July. — They went south along the sandy and dry, bed of a tor rent, and then by a very narrow and steep path alorig.the edge, of ri, precipice ; then turning west thpy reached the Tacaze, where they fohifl a great concourse of people. . The descent had been long and fatigiiiHg gri..4cccunt..of its extreme steepness. _ The .ped.of the .river was- about w yards wide, and the current impetuous and tolerably deep. ".-„.,, i This ford is formed by the Ataba, which rolls great rocks into the 0 2 192 COMBES' AND TAMISIER S JOURNEY Tacaze, and forms a sort of clam, which diminishes the rapidity of the current. The Tacaze separates Tigre from Amhara. In the rainy season it forms an insurmountable barrier between the two. The whole party, including the soldiers, passed it safely. The ford at the time they passed it was 5 or 6 feet deep, but it was evident that it was sometimes 9 feet deep. The river abounds in hippopotami, crocodiles, and fish, the vaUey in tigers and elephants. Excessive heat (95° in the shade) and periodical rains render the vegetation of the vaUey very luxuriant, and occasions dangerous fevers. It has been stated that this vaUey, at certain seasons of the year, is infested by a fly very dangerous to animals. The road then ascended the gorge of the Ataba, crossing it several times. They then commenced to ascend a lofty mountain by a rocky and thorny path, and at the end of two hours they arrived on a fine plateau, where is the viUage of Torzague. 4>th. They quitted Torzague, and commenced to climb again through lofty mountains, and, after three hours' march, descended by a steep and difficult path to the viUage of Greubeura, situated at the foot of gigantic mountains. 5th. They entered a great and fertile vaUey, torn by rapid and deep torrents, which fell into the Ataba. They then again struck the Ataba, and, following its banks, reached the vUlage of Abbeha, situated at the extremity of a rich valley. On the flanks of the mountains, rising above Abbena, they discovered a great quantity of hamlets, surrounded with trees and vegetation. The whole aspect of the country was pleasant and fertile. 6th. They followed the stream up a vaUey of marveUous richness. - Heavy rain feU, as on almost every afternoon. They slept in a cave. and suffered much from cold. 7th. They left the river and cHmbed a high mountain by an "in fernal " path. Its steep sides were covered by a rich vegetation. At length they arrived at the top of this prodigious mass, but on every side stiU higher peaks rose. This mountain is called Selki. ' It was very cold. They marched along the plateau for two hours, but, rain commencing, they stopped at Soana, a miserable hamlet. 8th. After an hour's march, through a boggy country, cut up by numerous torrents, and covered with abundant pasturage, they arrived at Nori. The atmosphere was charged with moisture, and the tops of the mountains covered with snow or fog. 10th. After a long and painful march, over lofty mountains, often enveloped in fog, they reached the hamlet of Amba- Ras, having left Enchetcab on their left. 11th. They followed the plateau for some time, and then descended into a valley where rain overtook them. Throughout the whole of the journey across these mountains, they had suffered much from cold and rain. 12th. After two hours' march, they passed the gate caUed Sancaber, shutting the finest, and, perhaps, the only road of Abyssinia. It is traced along the side of a high mountain, inaccessible from the base to the summit. Taxes are levied at this gate. They mounted by this road to a desert plateau, and then redescended into a great vaUey, a green meadow watered by many springs, and covered by numerous flocks. They followed it for more than an hour by an easy descent, and then arrived at the fine village of Daouarik, in the province of Ouagara. They had now left the mountains, and an open country stretched before them. FROM ADOWA TO DEVRA TABOR. 193 After remaining some" time at Daouarik, they left it on the 27th July. After the difficult passage of the mountains of Semen, the road appeared very easy. Innumerable herds of bullocks covered the vast prairies. Villages, surrounded with trees, appeared on every side. The province of Ouagara is the richest in Abyssinia, remarkable for its prairies and fertility. They reached the village of Doougua ; to the east, in the distance, they saw the lofty crests of the mountains of Semen. 2nd August. — Thoy traversed a beautiful country, but the meadows were less in extent, and more undulating. They passed several ruined villages, and saw a good deal of cattle, but very few inhabitants ; plenty of brooks and torrents. After being caught in violent rains, they reached the village of Cantiba, which is on the caravan road from Daouarik to Gondar, and at two days' journey from the latter. 3rd August. — They quitted the high road to Gondar, and followed an easy route through magnificent prairies and numerous flocks. They passed a stream called Anchoca, and in a quarter of an hour reached Dabat. The mornings were fine, but in the afternoons torrents of rain feU. The principal riches of the inhabitants consists in cattle, whose mUk they sell at Gondar. 6th August. — They quitted Dabat, marching through a country similar to that of the preceding day, but rather more wooded. After an hour's march the road divided, the one to the left going to the plain of Belessa, that to the right, which they followed, going to Duncas. To the south-east they perceived the celebrated mountain Ouechne. The country was intersected by numerous paths. They crossed the Faras-Ouaha, and reached Duncas, where there are the ruins of an old castle. Since leaving Daouarik they had found the climate milder. 8th August. — They quitted Duncas, and in an hour saw the mag nificent lake of Dembea on their right. On their left was the plain of Belessa, traversed by torrents full of water. The paths were numerous; the mountains around them, covered with trees, had a sombre aspect, which contrasted with the plains they were traversing. After seven hours' march they reached Tolusguerar. 9th August. — Five hours after starting they passed a mountain covered with cascades. • They then quitted the chain of mountains which occupies the whole province of Begemeder, and descended by a steep road to Derita, where they arrived early. Derita is situated on the east slope of the mountains, which rise above the plains surrounding the lake. It is on the frontier of Begemeder. There is a market every Monday at Derita, where coffee, wine, and brandy, can be bought. 19th August. — They left Derita at 11 a.m., and, after a difficult descent, arrived in the valley. The country is low and marshy, and unhealthy in the rains. They passed the brook Dendeno, and two hours afterwards traversed at the extremity of the valley the impetuous river Cheni. The fields were well cultivated, and there were numerous viUages. The road was so muddy that they were obHged to halt at the hamlet of Anguot, three leagues from Derita. 20th August. — They reached the hamlet of Goub. The road through the plain was as fatiguing as that of the day before. Two hours after leaving Anguot they crossed the Rebb by a bridge of six arches, built by the Portuguese. 21st August. — At Goub they left the plain, and ascended the chain of mountains which forms the boundaries of Begemeder. The country is well wooded. The plateau, on which Devra Tabor is situated, is 1$4 LETTER FROM DON ALONZO MENDEZ. covered with beautiful vdlages, churches shaded with trees, and many streams, which flow into the Rebb. After six hours' march they reached Devra Tabor. LETTER FROM DON ALONZO MENDEZ, PATRIARCH OF ABYSSINIA, GIVING AN ACCOUNT OF HIS JOURNEY FROM BAYLUR (AMPHILLA BAY) TO FREMONA, ON THE HIGHLANDS OF ABYSSINIA, MAY 16, 1625 (marked P on Map page 39). We departed Baylur on the 5th of May, afternoon, not so weU furr lushed as we expected, for though they had promised us, and there was need of many more camels, yet we being very hasty to be gone, as apprehending the neighbourhood of Moca, they found us but fourteen, which obHged us to leave behind much of our goods, taking only the most valuable, we being now twenty-two persons, with two that joined us from the ships. Only six asses could be got, so that we rode by turns, and went afoot mpst part of the way, which, when it was not loose sand, was over mountains of iron mines, the stones whereof are like thp dross that comes from the furnaces, and so sharp pointed that tbey spoilt a pair of shoes in a day, and there being no great stock of them, most pf my companions were forced to make use of the pack-thread buskins WP. carried for the servants, and not being used to them, their feet were much galled and bloody, following the camels. Eleven days our journey lasted. Some of them, to partake of the blessing the Prophet Isaiah giyps the feet of ministers' of the Gospel, would not ride at all, eating very Httle besides rice we had with us, meeting no town to furnish us with provisions ; and the heat so violent that it melted the wax in our boxes, without any shade but that of briers, which did us more harm tlian good, lying on the hard ground, and drinking brackish water of very ill scent, and sometimes but Httle of that. Yet the greatest vexation we bfid was the company of the camel drivers, who dealt with us most barbarously, and could never be corrected by the old furto above mentipned, who went along with us, continually craving some thing, and with a ctesign to inform his King what he might demand pf us. This man, the kinder we were to him, the worse he treated us, obliging us to maintain, and cook for him, and he would always be the first served ; and if at any time his meat was .not so soon ready as he expected, he revenged himself by not travelling that day, and playing us a thousand dog tricks, striking our men— all which we were fain to bear, for fear our goods should be left in that desert, which he would be very apt to do, because he was paid beforehand for the hire of the camels, without which hp would not have stirred a foot with us. •The King of DancaH being informed of our arrival, came six days' jpurney, from remoter parts, to a better country, where there was good water, and sent his brpther before to receive, or rather to pillage us ; for soon after we met, he sent to put us in mind we should give him his present, which we could not avoid delivering in that very place, though We pleaded the things were dispersed in the several packs, that were to be opened when we came to the King, his brother's camp. To show what difference there is in men's fancies, he willingly accepted of all that was clothing, and only rejected and desired us to change him a, Little cabinet of diu, curiously inlaid, which is worth there five cruzados, that is, about thirteen or fourteen shUiings, for a bit of cloth, wprth about eight pence, The King made the same account of some LETTER FROM DON ALONZO MENDEZ. 19£ $irrio,B.ities pf China we offered him, parting with them immediately, arid being extremely fond of the clothing, though of very smaU value. Thp reason his people gave for this was that, he always living in tents, curiosities were of no use there, nor had he anything worth keeping in them. The next day, the King sent us four mules, for the four principal fathers to come into his camp in more state ; .among which one fell tp my share, because I was reckonedthe Great Father— for so they call the superior. This name sunk that of Patriarch, or Abuna, of which thp King had received some intelligence, brought him out of Ethiopia, by the -Moorish Commander, and the Portuguese that came from thence. Seeing us aU in the same habit, which was always that the Socfety wear in India, they asked for the Abuna that came from Rome, and Wc answered, he died at sea, meaning the Bishop of Nice, at which the King was as much concerned as we, thinking he had lost a considerable prize in him. He prepared to receive us in a haU like that the poets describe the first King of Rome had, round, enclosed and covered with hay, and so low that it obliged me to bow lower than I had intended, nor qpuld the wind be confined in it, being open on aU sides. Qn one of them the floor was raised about four fingprs above the rest, and on it a small carpet of Lar, in Persia, worn so threadbare that it lopfiedlis i|" it had served all his predecessors, with a small cushion of the same antiquity, which, when he was better provided with what we gave him, lie aydpred to be laid for us, to sit down before him, instead of a i§at|igr ¦pre liad at the first visits, and we afterwards saw it on his horse, pis pariopy was a piece of coarse cloth. On the right hand a chair', whiph was once good, with silver plates, and pn the left two very large cala bashes, full of a liquor he used instead of wine, and took it often before his visitors, and these were the kettledrums that went before win, when he came thither from his tent, which was a small distance, and might, for antiquity, have served Ishmael, from whom they boast they are descended. His gravity and sedatenPSS was well becoming a King, anfl he showed it in despising a small present we carried him for admittance, as his servants told us was usual, reserving the - rest for another tirnp, which he did that we might not think that sufficient ; nor did he show much liking of the great present, though it was of considerable value, nor that he could find fault with it, but that there might be room for us to give more, and him to crave on, as he did during all the seventeen days we stayed there, which very much vexed us ; and yet we were much obliged to him, for though he fancied we brought much, more than in reality we had, and both himself and his people were very greedy, which is occasioned by the country being so poor, that for above fifty leagues I travelled through, there is net one foot, fit to be sowed, and they live upon flesh arid milk, and spme corn brought them out of Ethiopia ; yet he never ordered our gopds to be searched, nor saw any of them, nor exacted any duties. The Fathers that .'jrgnt by the way of Jjfazpa and Snaquem, said we should not have comg pff fhpre"|or"150'pieces"of eight. j'hereVe began to be pinched with hunger, for though the Reetej'S of Bazaim and Tana had furnished us with provision enough to serve us both by sea and land, it was left at Baylur, both for want e,f .carriage and because they told us there was plenty enough at the King's camp. Biit we found so Httle, that it was a great happiness to meet witii half a, peck of 'millet, which wp eat by ineasifre, either boiled pr roasted, there being np convenience for grinding : and very often we fed upon 196 LETTER FROM DON ALONZO MENDEZ. nothing but flesh, which they sold us very dear, knowing we must eat, and they had then a good opportunity to furnish themselves with 'ck thing, which at length began to fail, and none having faith enough to- trust us, we were obliged to shorten our allowance. At our taking leave, the King would have me, as being the great Father, to ride his own horse from his tent to ours, magnifying the honour he did us therein, and telling us, that even his own brother did not mount his horse. There was no dissuading him from it, though we urged that the Fathers did not use to ride a horseback, for he was resolved the Emperor should know he did his masters that honour, so that I was obliged to mount, and went back with great noise of horse bells, and weU at tended. The next day, being the 5th of June, we were dismissed with more honour than conveniency, having but one he mule, besides the beasts we brought from Baylur, so that we were Httle mended, except myself, who had a good mule given me by Paul Nogneyra, who would never ride in all the way, alleging he could not do it, when the fathers went afoot. Thus we travelled through uncouth lands, but with plenty of good water, the Moorish Commander and his men going along with us, as also a renegado Abyssine, who was his father-in-law. The boundary between the kingdoms of DancaH and Tygre is a plain four days' journey in length, and one in breadth, which they call the country of salt, for there is found all that they use in Ethiopia, instead of money ; being bricks, almost a span long, and four fingers thick and broad, and wonderfully white, fine, and hard, and there is never any miss of it, though they carry away never so much ; and this quantity is so great that we met a caravan of it, wherein we beHeved there could be no less than 600 beasts of burden, camels, mules, and asses, of which the camels carry. 600 of those bricks, and the asses 140 or 150, and these continually going and coining. They teU many stories concerning this Salt Field, and amongst the rest, that in some part of it, there are houses that look like stone, in which they hear human voices, and of several other creatures, and that they caU such as pass that way by their names, and yet nothing can be seen. The Moorish Commander told me, that as he went by there with a Lion, Ras CeUa Chistos sent to Moca, three or four of his servants vanished on a sudden, and He could never hear of them afterwards. In one place there is a mount of red salt, which is much used in physic. This is to be passed over by night, because the heat is so violent in the day, that travellers and beasts are stifled, and the very shoes parch up, as if they were laid on burning coals. We entered upon it at three in the afternoon, and it pleased God that the sun clouded, which the renegado Moor attributed to his prayers. We travelled all the night to get over the Salt HU1, only resting three times, whilst the camels' burdens were set down and loaded again ; and on the 11th of June, in the morning, came to a parcel of stones, where they told us the salt was at an end. Here we all saw towards our right, a star in the sky, larger than the planet called the Morning Star, very beautiful and bright, continuing fixed in the same place whUst a man might say the Lord's Prayer and an Ave Maria. On a sudden it enlightened all the horizon, and rejoiced our hearts. We were obHged to travel all day, that we might come to water in the evening, and had another iron mountain to pass Hke that of DancaH, where our Portuguese companion bid us strike off a shorter way than the caravan could go, along which we traveUed afoot at least six hours, almost perished for want of drink, till a Moor we met accidentally con, LETTER FROM DON ALONZO MENDEZ. .107 ducted-us to the water, and there the caravan joined us at night. We made but a short stay here, being told that the Gallas used to resort to that water, and therefore travelled on all night to get over a great plain they continually haunt, which wc found strewed with the bones of 160 persons those barbarians had butchered, and frighted us, seeing the track of their passing that way the same night, and yet we could not get over it tUl eight or nine the next morning, when we took to the mountains, where those people seldom go, and rested there all tlie remaining part of the day. The next night we traversed another plain of Gallas, shorter than the other, and then came upon the bank of a river, along which we traveUed two days, and I think it may be reckoned one of the most « pleasant in the world, for the water is clear and cool, and the herbs - growing along it sweet as pennyroyal, basil, and many more we know not. The banks are covered with tamarind, and those trees they caU the pagod in India, besides many others, on which there were abun dance of monkeys, skipping about and making faces at us. Here we met a man who brought us letters from the Fathers, and said F. Emanuel Barradas would be with us the next day at noon. The Renegado told us the camels should go no further unless we gave something more for them; and at night, that we must lie stiU ali the' next day, because their house was hard by, and they would go kiU a cow in honour of St. Michael, whose festival is kept in Ethi opia on the 16th of June, and the Moors observed it. That night four or five men came up to us, sent by F. Emanuel Barradas with provisions. The next day, at nine of the clock, we came to the foot of the mountain Sanafe, where began the command of the Moorish Captain that went for us, and so far we had hired the camels, who could not go up it, because very high and steep. Soon after we had set up our tent, came F> Barradas, with several Ethiopians of quaHty, many Portuguese, mules for aU the Fathers, a very fine one for the Patriarch, and abundance of provisions. Here F. Barradas advised me to put on the Episcopal robes, which when the Moorish Commander saw, he was much, surprised and begged my pardon for not having known me sooner, to pay that honour that was due to my dignity, and the renegado hearing of it was so confounded, that he durst not show his face. On the 17th we ascended the mountain, which is higher than the Alps, as one of our companions said who had passed them, and thicker of cedars, cypress, and other trees, and sweet herbs, the common weed on it being extraordinary high tufts of sage, and white ¦ roses. Going down again we came into tilled grounds, fuU of barley and millet, which we had not seen before. The Xumo of Agamea met us at the place where we lay that night, he and the others with him . bringing presents of 200 or 300 Apas, or cakes of bread each, and two or three cows, as also four, five, or six camels loaden with metheg- Hn, aU which was divided among the company, and though perhaps the presents might be the more considerable, because they were for guests who came from such remote parts, it is a settled custoiri in Ethiopia to entertain, and give a day's provision to all passengers, according to their quality, and if it be not done, the traveller may the next day complain of the governor of the town. The Xumo of Amba Senete, to whose house we came the third night, gave us there eight cows and we were entertained after the Ethiopian manner, a round table being spread on the ground, and on it many apas, as broad as - peck loaves, made of wheat, and a sort of pease much valued in that 19§ LIEUTENANT LEFEBVRE'S JOURNEY FRpM cojjintry, on which they lay the meat, so they are both eaten together, both flesh -and dish. Being thus attended by a great number of horsemen, richly clad, who went before skirmishing with their javelins and targets, wp caine to, Frpmona, which is a large and famous town in these parts, on the 21st of June. Thus far the Patriarch's letter. LIEUTENANT LEFEBVRE'S JOURNEY FROM ATEBIDERA TOWARDS THE SALT PLAIN, IN JUNE, 1841 (translaip with some abridgement ; marked P on Map page 39). I like Atebidera on the 5th June, at 9 o'clock in the morning, taking my instruments for observations. We were six, including the guide. For four hours we did not quit the plateau of Atebidera ; arrived at the edge, we descended a slope, and advanced over a sihcious limestone, very arid ; there was some cultivation, but the frosts are a great obstacle to the harvests. The inhabitants of the country owe their wealth to the commerce they have with the Taltal tribes. Arrived at the extremity of the slope we came uppn a precipice, which extended to the right and left as far as the eye could reach ,-thick vapours concealed its depth. Behind us a fine sky Hghted up Corn fields, and some dried bunches of bushes ; no horizon being visible in front, and no ground under our feet, we seemed to have arrived at the end of the world. The picture was striking. I wished to see it again at another time of day. The vapours having dispersed, the eye could follow a steep scarp, which terminated at a depth of 500 metres, in an immense plain : in this interval was comprised all the phases of a flourishing vegetation, from juniper, and several species of terebinths, passing by oHye trees, which indicate in this chmate a Height of 2'200 metres,* to mimosas, which form the extreme limits beyond which no vegetation is seen. In the plain nothing is to be seen but arid sand, and, further on, a reflecting surface, from which, the rays of the sun reverberate, as from a calm sea under the tropics. ¦ We passed the night in one of the villages of this frontier ; we were regaled with barley- meal and water, made into balls. At 5 o'clock in the morning we began to descend to the valley of Ficho. The slope is So steep that you cannot walk without the aid of a stick ; nevertheless, as the road is marked out and kept clear of rocks, in that respect pre ferable to the Tarenta one, camels can climb it, provided they are not loaded; but mules alone can traverse it with facility. Donkeys are excellent for the descent, but too weak for the ascent ; often in the steep places the guides are obHged to help them by shoving from behind. It took us three hours and a half to reach the valley. We then found ourselves in a ravine which encloses a rivulpt, on the edge of which Ficho is built. No description can realize the sensation of heat we felt in this- place ; the camel is the only animal that can resist it. Many go, it is true, as far as the Salt Plain, but their masters take care to provido themselves with grass and fresh straw before 'quitting the highlands ; besides, it is orily a fatigue of some days, after which the animals find reposo in a better climate. In the hut of the chief who (! ,A pietre is 3 feet 3} inohes. ATEBDDERA TOWARDS THE SALT BLAB*. received us we perceived a mule, kept at great cost, which did not pre vent it from being a complete specimen of osteology. The town of Ficho may contain 1,500 inhabitants ; its huts, placed on the slope of the ravine, at a few paces from thp brook, . are badly constructed, and judging from their miserable appearance, it would not be imagined that that is one of • the richest countries in Abyssinia. One would gay that the drying .influence of the sun has jl§o touched the brains of the inhabitants, for they seem to have no ideas but that of gain. Drinking is their only pleasure, and they are con stantly drunk. Frequent disputes are the result, from which arises the general habit of never appearing anywhere, even at their own doors, Without their buckler. Qur host did not lay it down, even in his own house, and poured us out to drink with one hand, holding his weapon with the other. This custom may also have arisen from the permanent sjate of hostiHty in which the Christian population lives with thp Taltals. An Abyssinian, who comes to settle at Ficho, makes his fortune there in two years, but what sentiment but the love of gain cpnld make such a residence endurable. It is not only from Atebi that people come tp the market of Ficho ; niany neighbouring towns, especially Addigratp, the capital of Agamfb, send their caravans there. The merchants pf Dpssa and Oikamessai glsp come there by a valley which cuts that of .Ficho perpendicularly abpve the town of Endolote. At a certain period pf the year these caravans go for the salt to the place where it is procured, and it is by their transit that Ficho becomes. gteh; bnt, when the great heats come, in the months of June, July, August, and September, the inhabitants of the plateau, not daring to exppse themselves to the danger of such a climate, abandon thp traffic to the Taltals, who are used to the climate ; the latter only take the salt as far as Ficho. On our arrival, we saw the Taltals of the different tribes to the west of the plain of salt ; the names of the principal ones are Rorome, Ararat, Borj- These people bring to market camels, which they ex change for thalers, grain, and cotton cloth. The value of a camel at Fiphp varips from three to seven thalprs. Our host entertained ns after cUnner with an account of the com7 merce in -salt which is carried on on the banks pf Lake Alelbacl. He said that this lake often changes its shape and place, which he expressed in these terms : the lakes mpves. Often, he added, on going tp a place which the evening before was quite soHd, you suddenly bjeak through, and disappear in the abyss. But what is more frightful is the overflow of the waters ; sometimes the lake rises Hke a mountain., and falls again into the plain like a deluge ; entire caravans, men and beasts are engulphed. There are, however, precursory signs, of which mounted men only can take advantage, by flying at the utmost speed of their animals ; occasionally some of them have thus escaped, and it is from them these terrible details are procured. ' - The salt is found in the neighbourhood of the lake, in horizontal beds, two inches thick, which are got out with wooden levers; the pieces are then cut into the proper size for sate with Httle hatchets. A little to the north three volcanoes are found, at the foot of which sul phur is found mixed with salt ; from these volcanoes is often heard a dull sound, which the Tantels call the Devil's thunder. All this appeared to me. very curious, and I asked for a guide to the place, but I was told the season was too unfavourable ; an Abyssinian, mnch more a white man, could not support the heat ; the Taltals t-hem- 200 LIEUTENANT LEFEBVRE'S JOURNEY FROM selves often fell, struck by congestion of tho brain. Notwithstanding these reasons I insisted, and a Tantal was given me to take me On the morrow as far as I could go. On the 7th June, directly after sunrise, I commenced the journey with my .guide, and descended the valley of Ficho. It widened out as we advanced, and I found in some places aUuvial banks, on which mimosas grow, and several shrubs, of which camels eat the leaves. An hour and a-half after leaving Ficho, we arrived at a point where our road cut that of Dessa ; the two form nearly a right angle. There the mountains separate, and form a sort of basin. We descended for an hour more, then the slope became less steep, the alluvial banks less extensive ; there is more water, and the vegetation becomes fresher. The valley continued to widen, and on the left of the brook was a rich tract, about a mile broad and two miles long, on which grew several fine sycamores, and other species of trees of large size, unknown in Europe. These woods were very thick ; I was obHged to dismount to penetrate them. After ten minutes march we found ourselves among abandoned cotton plantations, not far from which were some fruit trees, and behind them a Httle church of Greek architecture, bunt by the Ethiopians, which was easfly discernible by the cement, which is com posed of clay, mixed with chopped straw, instead of lime. An Abyssinian colony had been founded here by Sebagadis, who wished to build also a fortress there to hold the Taltals in check. At the time that we visited it, the place was deserted ; the banana and pomegranate trees grew together without hindrance. Their fruits served stiU to refresh the merchant, who was bold enough to leave the caravan, and risk an encounter with a Taltal After having eaten some fruits, we tried to advance to Mankel KeHe, from which the salt plain and lake may be seen ; but I was suddenly taken with vertigo, and fell insensible. I recovered my senses after some moments, and ordered myself to be placed immediately on my mule, sustained by two men, and led back. I forbad them to stop, however much I might suffer. I fainted again on the road, and in that state arrived at Ficho. At sunrise I was tied on to my mule again to reascend the plateau. • . . . . The next day I resumed the journey to Atebidera, where I arrived at nine o'clock in the morning. Among the information which I had obtained from my host at Ficho, there was one portion which I should Hke to have verified, namely, to know whether it was possible to go from that place to AmphUah in four days, and to Massowah in five. This journey, which had never been made, would have been very curious ; but the season was not favourable, and I was too well persuaded of this to wish to repeat the experience. LIEUTENANT LEFEBVRE'S JOURNEY FROM MASSOWAH TO ADOWA IN JUNE, 1839 (translated with some abridge ment ; marked B and I on Map, page 39). 6th June. — We quitted Massowah. On landing on the continent we found eight camels and six mules under the guidance of some Chohos. Although our pace was quicker than that of the caravans of Egypt, n't took us nearly three hours to reach Arkiko. The sons of the Naib begged us to stop with them until the heat of the day was passed, . We MASSOWAH TO ADOWA. 201 acquiesced, the heat being very great, the thermometer marking 45' (113° Fahrenheit) in a thatched house. The sandy soil of the coast refracts the rays of the sun with a force which renders a march by day very painful. The eye sees no vegetation, but some stunted acacias, which, by encumbering the road, add to the difficulties of the march. The Naib wanted us to take the road by Dixan in preference to that by Halai, which is the shortest. We were indifferent by which road we entered Abyssinia, but the narratives of the travellers who had preceded us had impressed us so unfavourably with the Naib that we determined to go by Halai. We marched during the night, and at sunset we stopped at Oueia, which most travellers have described as a charming place. Probably the insupportable heat of the sun, the burning aridity of the soil, and the fatigues of the road, had rendered them easy to please, for the oasis of Oueia is composed of a bunch of palm trees, a Httle scorched grass, and a spring of brackish water. We may add that this magnificence is set in a vaUey bounded by schistous and sterile mountains, where nothing attests the passage of man. As soon as the heat was passed, we resumed our route, and encamped in the evening at Hamhamo, taking care to Hght great fires to keep off wUd beasts. Here commence the gorges formed by the spurs of the Ethiopian plateau. From this point the road follows the bed of a torrent, moistened by some rUls of water, which never dry up. The temperature becomes endurable, but the nature of the ground, and its steepness, make the march difficult. It took us three days to reach Toubbo, the last station before arriving at the foot of Taranta. As our guides insisted on our going by Dixan, and not by Halai, I left my companions with the baggage, whilst I went on to examine the two roads. I advanced into the middle of interlaced gorges, in which the traveUer may easUy lose his way. In these vast sohtudes I expe rienced an undefinable impression, and felt crushed by the greatness of nature. As we rose, the country changed its aspect, and became more habitable. We met from time to time herds of cattle, whose shepherds saluted my guide respectfully. Some asked for snuff, to which I added the snuff-box, and received in exchange jars of nrilk, and an infinity of blessings. At the first sight of Taranta it seemed impossible that caravans could climb its steep and sHppery slopes ; but the heavily laden oxen climb with wonderful strength and agiHty over rocks apparently im practicable, and thanks to my mule I soon found myself at the top of the ascent. An air almost cold succeeded to the intolerable heat of the preceding days, and the kolkoual, the tree pecuHar to Abyssinia, which Bruce was the first to describe, showed me that I had reached the edge of the scene of my explorations. We advanced for some time longer over a tolerably well cultivated plateau to Halaye. From thence the eye embraces a wide view, stopped only by the curtain of high mountains which form the north-west side of the basin of Adowa. These serrated peaks cut the horizon in a thousand fantastic forms. At my feet was spread out Tigre, a succession of vaUeys, of which my eye followed aU the windings. _ An infinity of brooks 'traversed the country. I stopped for some minutes to gaze on this magnificent picture, which the rising sun lighted up with a mixture of -gold and silver. -; On approaching Halai, I had been accosted by a very intelligent adventurer called Betleem, mentioned by MM. Combes and Tamisier 20l LD3UTENANT LEFEBVRE'S JOURNEY FROM in the interesting account of their journey. He conducted me to the chief of the village, the chown guede, arid gave me the necessary infor mation, Which enabled me to send at once to my companions tb jbiri me. Next day I was told that armed men, descending from Dixah, had arrested my companions, encamped at the junction of the two roads, and wanted to compel them to take the one leading to thefr town. I immediately started with a band of the Chohos of Halai. After two hours' journey we perceived the soldiers of Dixan. After some threatening movements the two parties joined, and agreed that, whichever road we took, they would divide the profits arising froin the hire of the beasts of burden for our baggage. Next day it fequired aU our moral force to reduce to just propor tions their ridiculous demands. They wishbd first to open our boxes, pretending they were too Heavy for the oxen, but in reaHty to see what they contained. The proprietors of the oxen appeared disposed to make us pass a second night at the fobt of Taranta. Nevertheless, after three hours' discussion, we cariie tb terihs, and about four o'clock started for Halaye. Night obHged lis to encamp on the first step. As soon as we reached Halaye we prepared to start for Adowa, tne capital of Tigre, where we proposed to pass the rainy season. This town, being' a centre of easy communications with the Other countries of Abyssinia, we could there obtain the necessary information for Coh- tiriuing our explorations. We started in a south-south-west direction. During the four days' march which separate Halaye frorii Adowa we met with the inost favourable reception from the natives, with the exception of those of Eguela. This district is, nevertheless, one of the richest of Tigre, but, being on the caravan route,. it has too many opportunities for practising hospitality to put it often An practice. This absence of goodwUl obHged us to sleep in the open air, OH stones symmetrically arranged by the earavans, a piecaution rendered indispensable by a very unpleasant species of ant named DekbndeM, which gets into the clothes and hair of people who sleep ori the earth, arid whose bite is insupportable. For Lefebvre's itinerary of this route, see page 19S. LIEUTENANT LEFEBVRE'S JOURNEY FROM ADOWA TO ADDIGRAHT AND ANTALO, OCTOBER, 1840 (translated with some abridgement ; marked L 2 and 0 on Map, page 39). The country we had to traverse had the reputation of being Httle hos pitable, and the civfl war which had desolated it prevented any regular riiarkets being held. . We were obliged, therefore, to carry provisions with us, as is the custom among Abyssinians, of distinction. They generally consist of a Httle corn arid theff ; barley- meal for mixing with cold water when an oven cannot be procured; meal of peas and beans, mixed with red and black pepper ; butter, honey, pimento sauce, and powdered meat. To prepare this meat, it is cut into extremely thin shreds, which are dried until they are as hard as wood ; they are then pounded, in a riidrfcitr ¦roth bla,ck and red pepper, cinnamon and cloves. All the meat bf a bnUock\ thus' treatedj iB hardly a load for. a man, To. eat it, a nirich'p'r two is boiled in water, arid a Httle butter is added : soon the wnote ADOWA TO ADDiG&AHT AND ANTALO. 208 swells, thickens, and forms an agreeable broth, far preferable to the salt meat of ships. We left Adowa on the 5th October, at 7 o'clock in the -morning. We took the road to Entitcho by the vUlage of Memessa, and made our first halt at the weUs of Megara Tsameri, at the foot of a mountain which closes the vaUey. From thenbe, mounting the plateau of Guen depta, and leaving Mount Semayata behind us, we descended bn the other side into the valley of May'e Kerbahar, and slept at Addikrasse. At seven o'clock in the morning we resumed our march across a country furrowed by numerous brooks, of which the principal rise in the mountain of Guendepta, At noon we reached the first hiUs of the district of Entitcho. We stopped in the viUage, and I passed part of the night in making astronomical observations. In the evening Schaff- ner was taken ill, and I loft him to the hospitaHties of MM. Ferret and Galinier, who Hved close by. On the morrow I continued my jpurriby. For two hours I went along the crest of the mountains of Erititcnb; which join those of Darha arid Amba Saneyti, and form, with those m' Debra Damo, a rich basin, which comprehends the districts of Serird arid Beezet. After having descended the eastern slope of the mountain Enfitcho, I entered first the prairie of Seriro, traversed by a brbbk called Gabata. I then mounted by a sHght incline to the country of Beezet, and passed the night in the viUage of that name, situated at the foot of the mountain Alekoua. Next day I entered the high coriritry of Agame, whose slopes are thickly wooded. After a fatiguing day's march I arrived at the village of Addi Baria, whose elevatiori is 3,000 metres ; the air was very brisk, and the Hght cotton Stuff, which forms the ordinary costume of the Abyssinians, was replaced by wooUen clothbs. Hefe We experienced the first f efusal of hospitality. ..;..,, The next day, until noon, I remained on the tops Of the hiUs, and then, descending, traversed a plain of great extent, which On one side descends abruptly towards the Taltal country by a vast precipice, from Which rise some mountains, whose blue tops are hardly elevated above thelevel of the plain and form the first of the two descents which have to be passed before reaching the sea. F The plain belongs to the district of AddigrateV, It appeared to iSfe thickly inhabited; and everything breathed an air of wealth; the neigh bourhood of the salt mines and the presence of a population at once commercial and agricultural, made themselves felt The next &a,tf, Sunday, I made my last stage. Following the range of Mils which bounds the plain to the south, and leaving the town of Addigrate some nriles tb the north, I arrived about two o'clock in front pf the camp, which was established id the midst of an uncultivated country, at a point from whence a ravine debouched, leading to the Taltal country. The tent of the Cdmmander-iri- Chief was placed on a little eririnence in the forrri of a fort, and all round, ori the plain, was arranged, the tents of the principal officers against which the straw huts of the soldiers were arranged in circles. These huts forfned an empty space, where the horses, mules, and cattle were tethered, and part of which served as a threshing floor ...... I passed some days in the camp, and I employed them exclusively in geographical labours. I Was on the point of leaving when I received a visit from two men belonging to Balgada Area, who pressed me, on the part of their master, to visit Enderta and Ouodgerata, which 'they told rrie were the most curious and hospitable provinces of Abyssinia. I did ntft want pressing to decide me to prdfit by this opportunity, andpre- t$irld to (set out. 204 LIEUTENANT ! ;EFEBVRE'-S JOURNEY Addigraht to Antalo. 1 went the same day to take leave of Oubie, who presented me with two cows, and on the morrow I quitted the camp, taking a westerly direction towards the plains of Haramat. I stopped at a Httle village named Ouelele, but, learning that the neighbourhood was infested by the bands of Guebra Rafael, I determined to alter my route and regain the chain of Agame and follow the high plateaux of Atibidera, Ouomberta, and Dessa, which is the ordinary route to Enderta of the salt mer chants. I first reached a range of high hills, composed of white sandstone and quartz. Their sides contain cavities, veritable eagle nests, which the ague Abyssinians alone can reach. If, by chance, a Httle fresh water filters through the rock, the cavern becomes an exceUent fortifica tion, and may become a refuge for a fugitive or for a band of robbers. I found a narrow valley, called Soussobe Gabia, or the market of Soussobe, and, following it for some time, arrived at the foot of the mountain on which Atebidera is bunt. We were arranging our camp for the night when we were accosted by a man who had been one of the brave soldiers of Cassayc. He invited me to pass the night in his vUlage, and to accept for supper a cow and some honey. My host was called the Chalaka Chekoulabe ; formerly all the country we had traversed during the day belonged to him ; now, completely despofled, he Hves from the fruits of his excursions amongst the Taltals, who are born enemies of the Abyssinians. Having learnt that I was going to Antalo by Ate bidera, he persuaded me to take by preference the road by DengueUet, which was shorter, and promised to give me a guide. We parted very good friends. - On leaving him I passed by a narrow gorge which led to the Amba of the Chalaka ; the road was bordered by oHve trees, juni pers, and plants called Taddo, employed to ferment hydromel. Enormous blocks of quartz were seen scattered among the sandstones and clay schists. The extremity of the defile led us to the country of Den gueUet, and I had only to pass a few hills before arriving at the vast plains of Enderta. I stopped at the entrance of the defile of DongoUo to breakfast " under a grotto covered with jasmine. We were near a hill twenty metres high ; a church, called Mariam Corver, has been cut out of the rock composing it, and the inhabitants of the country pretend that it was made by God. Having passed the Guenfel river, which issues from this defile, we entered the plain of Aonza. In the middle of excellent pasture I saw cattle of a stronger nature than those of Lower Tigre, and the great horns of some of them proved that they had been crossed with Taltal bulls, which are remarkable for the strength of their muscles and the disproportionate size of their horns, which attain a size of six feet long by six inches in diameter. In the evening I arrived at Aouza, a little town near which the River Guenfel forms a cascade and faUs into a valley, along whose sides calcareous rock, with fossils of the Jurassic series, crop out. Aouza has a population of about 1,200 souls. The houses are terraced instead of being conical and covered with straw, as is generally the case in Abyssinia. Eight kilometres south of Aouza the River Agoula, which separates the plateau of Tera from that of Ouomberta, is found. In the valley I saw five Taltals in ambush, armed with lances and bucklers. Some moments after we had n more pacific rencontre ; it was a great LIEUTENANT LEFEBVRE'S ROUTE FROM ADOWA. 205 number of merchants leading donkeys and some camels loaded with salt, which announced to us the neighbourhood of the towns bordering the plains where it is procured. For four hours we had been marching in a country which appeared uninhabited* ' On entering Ouomberta we began to find some cottages. We passed from thence into the province of Dessa. Arid hoped to arrive that evening at Antalo, for we perceived the mountains which com mand that towri; we therefore hurried on across the great inter minable plains. Nevertheless night overtook us before we had reached a suitable habitation. We began to hear the cry of the hysenas. At each instant our guide hoped to arrive, and after wandering about we ended by floundering in a marsh, not being able to distinguish any thing at five paces from us. At length our feet struck firmer ground, a path presented itself to our sight, we foUowed* it as our only resource. Two or three times we lost it, either in crossing brooks or mounting rocks, an operation in which my mule acquitted itself very well. At length we perceived a Hght, and soon we were winding in a labyrinth of houses. We were in the viUage of Elkele. I quitted Elkele at daybreak, and wbnt towards Antalo, where I expected to find Balgada Area, but in the plain of Afgole I met several horsemen, who were hastening to the camp of their master, who was going to direct, in person, an expedition against a revolted chief. I stopped, then, at the viUage of Afgole, and sent to the camp of • Area to demand an interview. About three o'clock, not seeing the messenger return, I started, and arrived at Antalo at the end of an hour I returned to Antalo, where I remained a day. On the morrow I passed the vUlage of Afgole, and.foUowed a valley, which, after two hours' march, brought me to Tcheleukot. This town is buflt in the middle of a basin, surrounded by high hills, which were cultivated in the time of Ras Ouelda Salasse, but which now are overrun by thorny plants. A large brook, which flows round the town, makes the environs fertile. Each house is provided with a garden, and in some are planted oHve frees, junipers, cedars, and vines. A charming coup d'ceil is the result. Tcheleukot has two churches ; one is constructed with a cylindrical wall, according to the Abyssinian method. In the time of the Ras the population of Tcheleukot was consider able, but it does not now exceed 3,000 souls. It is one of the Guedam, or towns of refuge. LIEUTENANT LEFEBVRE'S ROUTE FROM ADOWA TO MASSOWAH, BY KAYAKHOR AND AILET, IN JANU ARY, 1840 (translated from the original with some abridgement ; marked H on Map, page 39). I took the Serae road, and stopped the first day at Beeza, at the house of the Choum Ato Ouelda Raphael. He gave me a guide to the Mareb. The road leading there was bounded by a series of hills which belong entirely to the' District of Beeza ; on their rounded summits are pleasant groups of houses. The last hUl, before arriving at the plains in the midst of which the river runs, is covered with trees ; it is called Amba Christophe; the plain is thickly wooded, but with small trees, except at the edge of the water, where we saw several fine timber trees, aU peculiar to Abyssinia. As we were in the dry season, we were not 206 LIEUTENANT LEFEBVRE'S ROUTE FROM ADOWA afraid of pitching our tents there. The river was dry and we were obHged to dig in the sand to obtain water. The inhabitants came to warn us that two troops of elephants had been seen in the neighbour hood, and that Hons and hysenas were numerous. (They saw the elephants, but were dissuaded by their guides from firing, on account of the smaU bore of their fowling-pieces. The guides told them that, unless mounted on horseback, it was not safe to attack them unless there was a ravine or other place where they could take refuge). The next day, having started at daybreak, we arrived early at Gondet. I sent to salute the Choum, Ato Akflas, and to ask him for lodgings in the village. He allotted me a house riext his, and gave me two young rams, a pot of honey, a sheep, and a fiUet of beef. Gondet has only two classes of inhabitants, husbandmen and hunters. The first, being obHged to carry on their work in the plains of Mareb, often at great distances from their habitations, are always armed to defend their cattle against wild beasts, and the other class, among whom must be ranked the nobles of the country, is, by the nature of its occupations, continuaHy exposed to the greatest dangers, which render it hardy and warlike I took from one of the summits of Gondet a general coup d'ceil of the mountains of Tigre, from Axoum as far as Okoule Gouzaye, towards the Taranta chain. At my feet was the vaUey of the Mareb, of which the level is here 1,100 metres. The plateau of Serae, which it sur rounds completely, has a mean elevation of 2,000 metres. It results from this that the vegetation in the first of these two regions is quite tropical, whilst the plateau has a European climate. It is only opposite Chire, above Medebaye Tabor, that the Mareb is never dry. This is why in that place the pursuit of wild animals is so productive ; tor mented by flies and the other insects of the low countries which sur round Abyssinia, these animals ascend to the high lands, but they are obHged to stop at the Hmit of the waters. ....... I devoted the two following days to completing my works at Gondet, and then took leave of my friend AkUas. I entered a very narrow vaUey foHowing a north-north-easterly direction, which, after an hour's march, took me to the foot of a steep slope, where there is only a narrow path worn by mules. A fine plain, composed of a rich and fertile soil, recompensed me for this difficult ascent ; I could per ceive, as far as the town of Addi Hoala, no prairie ; everything was in crops ; but the remainder of the route, as far as Addi Cassemo, on the contrary, contained numerous prairies, watered by many brooks, where I saw magnificent flocks. On leaving Addi Cassemo, we traversed a desert which isolated traveUers avoid for fear of banditti. We then reached the village Enna Hoyola, on approaching which we heard the sounds of music which announced the celebration of a fete The next day we started, and soon arrived at Amba Zareb, on our left were the mountains of Amacene (Hamasen), and at our feet a level country, a sort of desert which leads to the vUlage of Chaha, caUed also Maye Tada, that is to say white water, because the water found there traverses a stratum of tufa, which whitens it. The houses of Chaha have flat roofs covered with rammed earth ; they are so arranged as to enclose a large space into which all the houses open, and to which there is but one access. This arrangement is adopted to facflitate their defence against the attacks- of the Chohos, who often push their excur sions as far as this part of the frontier of Tigre. TO MASSOWAH, BY KAYAKHOR AND AILET. 207 From thence we again descended into the vaUey of the Mareb, and we passed that river at a place only one day's distance from its source ; after having ascended the opposite slope, we arrived on the plain of Eguela Goura. The caravans often halt there, both going and returning ; they can buy corn there, which is not usuaUy the ease elsewhere in Abyssinia, except at Gondar. At half-past eleven in the morning we were in the town of Eguela Goura, at the house of the Choum Aptaye, who had the reputation of being a very rich man. Some persons told us that he had jars fuU of gold, which was undoubtedly absurd ; but there is no doubt that he possessed much grain, for, without reckoning the overflowing granaries of his vast house, I perceived on the outside a great quantity of fuU sacks, and every moment loaded buUocks aug mented their number The Choum gave me the guide I asked for. As we were in the dry season, I left with him my baggage and mules, and my two servants to look after them ; I then started for Kaikor, the last Christian town on this frontier. Qn the road I met the Debtera Sahalo, who brought me a tetter from Dr. Petit. The plain of Eguela Goura continues until a short way from Kaikor; it is then terminated by a steep slope, which leads to another step, where there is a viUage whose inhabitants act as guides between that place and the sea. They make the journey, which takes three days, for a quarter of a thaler to a poor man, but they take more from merchants and caravans, sometimes as much as five thalers ; but their greatest gain proceeds from the sale of corn, butter, and other eatables for the use of traveUers. They are honest, trustworthy, and courageous, and the interval between the Ethiopian plateau and Kaikor is perhaps the safest part of Abyssinia for merchants. We passed the night at our guide's house, and on the morrow we left Kaikor traveUing north-east across a wooded plain, in which there was a great number of gazeUes and pintadoes. A hyaena passed us, taking no more notice than a tame dog would have done. We then descended towards another step, although the slope was steep, and the road encumbered with rocks ; we saw numerous traces of elephants. At the foot of the descent a narrow valley commences ; it is traversed in its whole length by a cool and shady stream, and numerous herds feed in the rich grass by its side. Some tribes of Chohos have built here and there their huts.. In the midst of this grass a clump of trees affords a dehcious shade. It is Here, at the foot of an enormous sycamore, that caravans usuaUy stop during the heat of the day. This place is caUed Aye- deresso. After having reposed there some instants, we followed, for about two hours, the valley which runs north and sonth ; we then traversed the chain which bounds it on the east, and we descended again into another lower vaUey which runs north-north-west. Another brook traversed this vaUey with a Httle grass on its banks ; we stopped there to pass the night. It was about four o'clock ; we profited by the little time which remained before sunset to collect some wood, for we- were obHged to keep up a fire on account of wfld beasts. On quitting this station, we crossed a chain on our left, and descended again into a vaUey, lower than the preceding ones, and which, at the end of two hours, led us into a sort of basin, where other valleys terminate and empty their water. This place is called Medeumnar, a name which the Tigreans give to all junctions of many waters. In the country of the GaUas this name is changed into that of Djeumma. We began to find many ChohcfviUages ; they should rathpr.be called p 2 208 LIEUTENANT LEFEBVRE'S ROUTES. camps, for they are composed of osiers, arranged in a circle, and covered with leather and rush mats ...... Some time after having passed these villages, we halted to break fast ; at that moment we perceived a herd of antelopes, of which we killed one . . . We were going .to put our pieces of meat on a species of Euphorbia, but the inhabitants hastened to prevent us, because the contact alone of this plant is poisonous. Several analogous species in this country have very active poisonous quahties. We were at length in the valley of Ailat, Where, during the rainy season, almost all the flocks belonging to the different tribes of Chohos are coUected ; the inhabitants of the frontier of Serae and Amacene also bring theirs down here when the rains cease in the highlands, and commence in the low countries. We had never seen anything to com pare with the number of cattle which we saw on our road, not even in the Pampas of South America. The plain of Ailat appeared to be the finest country in the world ; but, in the dry season the sod, which We then saw covered with verdure, is converted into a fine dust, impregnated with saltpetre, which penetrates the skin, and sometimes causes sores. The leaves of the trees disappear, the branches are blackened ; every thing has the appearance of having been ravaged by fire. The water is all dried up, except in some fetid marshes. AU the inhabitants hasten to quit the desolate country, and to remove their flocks to the plateau, leaving the Hons and other wUd beasts in tranqtril possession of the place. It was at the village Ailate that my coUeagues were to meet me ; at four o'clock in the afternoon we were very near it, but my mule was tired, and I could go no further. I accepted the hospitaHty that was offered us in a camp of Chohos ; it was composed of about a thousand huts, disposed in a circle on four rows ; two doors only gave admittance into the circular interior ; they were left open in the day, but were shut at night after the cattle had entered. On the morrow, 7th February, we reached AUate, after an hour's march I employed the rest of the day in getting some geographical informa tion, and in visiting the hot springs, which are four nriles south-south west of Ailate. These springs, whose temperature is 56° (133° Fahr.), issue from four orifices, distant about a metre from one another, among talcose schists traversed by veins of white quartz and rose feldspar. LIEUTENANT -LEFEBVRE'S ROUTES. 1. First Route from Messoah to Adowa. First day. Seven hours for a mule. Oye-Negousse. — The road traverses an arid and desert country. Second day. Nine hours. _ Medeummar. — Country varies in aspect in the dry and wet seasons : it is burnt up in the first, but in the second covered with foHage and verdure ; the yellow dust gives way to fresh prairies, where innumer able flocks pasture. Third day. Nine hours. Aye-Dermo. — In the valleys formed by the spurs of the Ethiopian LIEUTENANT LEFEBVRE'S ROUTES. 209 plateau. The air begins to become cool, and water is found on the greater part of the road: Fourth day. Five hours. Kaye-Kor. — Kaye-Kor is the first place where water is found after leaving Aye-Deresso. It is reached by a wooded plain, inhabited by ferocious animals. Fifth day. Five hours. Chaah. — On leaving Kaye-Kor the Ethiopian plateau is reached. The road traverses a cultivated and thickly peopled country. Chaah is on the other side of the Nareb on the right bank. Sixth day. . Four hours. Koudo-Fellassi. — The first part of the road is through a desert and wooded country, haunted by bandits and Chohos, who attack traveUers when they are not on their guard ; the second part is by the fertile plateau of Serae. Seventh day. Nine hours. Addi Hoala. — Over plains watered by numerous brooks. Eighth day. Four hours* Gondet. — On the descent leading from the plateau to the Mareb. Ninth day. Four hours. Addis Addi. — The Mareb is repassed : a low country, wooded, of high temperature. Tenth day. Seven hours. Ghaaguene. — On cultivated hiUs, where only a few vUlages. Eleventh day. Five hours. Adowa. — Through green well-watered valleys. 2. Second Route prom Messowas to Adowa. First day. Six hours. Oueia.— Road dry, burnt up, so hot that it can only be traveUed over by night. Second day. Five hours. Hamhamo. — Same as the first day. Third day. Seven hours. Toubo. — Through narrow vaUeys, at the bottom of which are tor rents which never dry. Fourth day. Seven hours. Dixon or Halaye.— The mountain of Tarenta is cHmbed ; Halaye and Dixan are first Christian towns met with after leaving the coast. Fifth day. Nine hours. Egueraobo. — Through a very mountainous country, whose popula tion is one of the least hospitable in Christian Abyssinia. Sixth day. Nine hours. _ Eguela.— The Rivers Tserana and Belessa are crossed and the chain of Logota is passed. Seventh day. Nine hours. Adowa.— The two rivers Memene and Onguaye are crossed : a neb country. 3. Route from Massowah to Atebi. In the first four days Halaye is reached (see second route). 210 LIEUTENANT LEFEBVRE'S ROUTES. Fifth day. Seven, hours. Segonete. — On the edge of the Ethiopian plateau ; the second part of the route is made on a lower level ; several unimportant brooks are crossed. Sixth day. Nine hours. Bihate. — Through an arid and desert country. Seventh day. Seven hours. Addigrate. — A higher elevation is reached, rich in pasture. Addi- grate is the capital of Agame. Eighth day. Six hours. Agoddi. — Through a low country, at first rich and fertile, then dry and destitute of vegetation. Ninth day. Eight hours. Atebi. — Over elevated plateaux, where barley is the only cereal cultivated. 4. Route from Messoah to Antalo. Atebi is reached in nine days. (See previous route.) Tenth day. Four hours. Aikamessal. — FoUowing the course of the brook Ateeti which further on is increased by receiving the waters of the Province of Ouomberta, and takes the name of the River Agoula. Aikamessal is one of the points by which the caravans descend to the plain of salt. Eleventh day. Six hours. Dessa. — Over a tolerably fertile plateau, but thinly inhabited. Dessa is also an assembling point from which caravans descend to the plain of salt. Twelfth day. Five hours. Kouchame-Tcheleukot. — Continuation of the same plateau. Thirteenth day. Six hours. Antalo. — The two Httle rivers Guembeia and Antabate are crossed. Country inhabited and covered with cultivation. 5. Route from Messoah to Abi-Addi. Seventh day. Adowa. Eighth day. Six hours. Zoungui. — Through an uneven country belonging to the KoUas (low country). Ninth day. Eight hours. Meretta. — The first part of the road is almost a desert and nothing but some groups of mimosas are seen. The river Oueri is crossed, shut in between deep banks ; the country assumes a less desolate aspect on approaching Meretta, of which the position is very picturesque and surrounded by numerous hamlets. Tenth day. Six hours. Abi-Addi. — Through a country thickly inhabited and frequented by a great number of merchants who trade in salt with Abi-Addi. This town serves as a depbt for this article for the provinces of Semien. 6. Route from Messoah to Areza. The three first days we. employed in traversing the Qhoho country, LIEUTENANT LEFEBVRE'S ROUTES. 211 Third day. Seventeen hours. Ouaky.— First station on the Ethiopian plateau. Fourth, fifth, and sixth days. Eighteen hours Aram.- •Through low country, furrowed by numerous ravines. Areza is in the middle of the great hunting-grounds for the elephant, rhinoceros and buffalo. v ' , 7. Route from Messoah to Debab Gouna. Seventh day. Adowa. Eighth day. Four hours. Axoum — Almost always across a plain; country rich and fertUe, pnncipaUy cultivated with theff and corn. With the exception of some hills the country is entirely level. Ninth day. Six hours. Tambouhh.— The brook Maye-Tchout is crossed, which waters fine prairies and fields of theff; from thence the hiUs of Akabsire are reached, behind which is the vaUey of Guerzela ; after having crossed them a descent is made into the vaUey of Tamboukh. Tenth day. Four hours. Belasse — After passing the fine prairies of Seleuloah, a Httle chain is passed which borders the plain of Chire on the north, and the dis trict of Belasse is entered. Eleventh day. Eight hours. Maye-Temene. — Through a plain. Country of cereals and pastures. Twelfth day. Six hours. Debabgouna. — Through a plain, the same as the preceding. 8, Route from Messoah to Eguela-Goura. Fourth day. Kaye-Kor.' — First station on the plateau. Fifth day. Three hours. Eguela-Goura.- — On leaving Kaye-Kor a steep ascent is made ; but the rest of the route is through a plain, formed of fields of cereals and a small number of meadows. 9. Route from Messoah to Ficho and the Salt Plain. Ninth day. Atebi. — (See the route from Messoah to Atebi). Tenth day. Three hours. Ass'ote. — Road through a plain. Eleventh day. Three hours. On leaving Assote the eastern slope of the Ethiopian plateau is descended by a very steep road. Twelfth day. Four hours. Wells of Saba. — Through the bed of a torrent strewed with rolled flints. Thirteenth day. Eight hours. Mankel-KeUc. — A slope is descended; and a vast plain, for a great part desert, is entered. Near Mankel-Kelie are some cultivated spots and a few scattered huts inhabited by the Taltal tribe of Bor&me, 212 LIEUTENANT LEFEBVRE'S ROUTES. Fourteenth day. Nine hours. Gara. — The road descends sensibly, and soon there is nothing but a burning desert without any species of vegetation. The halt is made near the spring of Gara, from which the water issues boiling. 10. Second Route. Ficho may be reached by a much shorter line through vaUeys from the shore ; for the Salt Lake is only at a very short distance from the coast ; but this route is only practicable for natives of the country. 11. First Route from Messoah to Addi-Abo. Eighth day. Axoum. — (See the itinerary from Messoah to Debabgouna). Ninth day. Maye-Touaro. — This town is at the extremity of the vaUey of Tam- bouhh, at the place where it debouches into the plain of Seleuloah. Tenth day. Medebayetaber.—Go\mtry hiUy and generaUy wooded, with numerous ravines, and a great number of brooks, which faU into the River Mareb. Eleventh day. Kaye-Beit.^— Low country, well wooded. It is difficult to travel without a guide in this country. Twelfth day. Addi-Abo. — On approaching Addi-Abp, a great number of viUages and weU cultivated fields are met. Nevertheless a part of the popula tion devotes itself to hunting which is very productive. 12. Second Route. On leaving Maye-Touaro a road may be foUowed by the hiUs of Koyeta and the district of Addi-Onfito, and on the fourth day Addi- Abo is reached. The people met with on this road are more hospitable than those of the districts of Medebaye Taber and Kaye-Beit. 13. Route from Messoah to Aosseba. Twelfth day. Kouihame-Tcheleukot. — (See the route from Messoah to Antalo). Thirteenth day. Aosseba. — The country traversed consists of plateaux rich in pasture and cereals. Aosseba is on the southern frontier of Enderta; the inhabitants have frequent relations with the Taltals and GaUas, from whom they buy ivory and some rhinoceros horns. 14. Route from Messoah to Assakelti. Thirteenth day. Antalo. — (See the route from Messoah to Antalo). Fourteenth day. Four hours. Addirake. — The plain of Antalo and the River Bouille is traversed ; LIEUTENANT LEFEBVRE'S ROUTES. 213 the province of Ouodgerate, of which Addirake is one of the principal villages, is then entered. Fifteenth day. Five hours. Beit-Maria. — After traversing a plain covered with pasturage, and bounded by high mountains, a narrow vaUey, watered by a large brook coming from the high peak of Aladjie, is ascended. Sixteenth day. Five hours. Sessate. — Still in the same valley, the ascent of which is con- tinned; the high chain of Ouodgerate is then crossed by the pass of Aladjte. It is on its opposite slope that the vdlage of Sessate is bunt. Seventeenth day. Eight hours. Tsaafti. — After having traversed the vaUey of AtsaUa, the chain, which bounds it on the opposite side to Aladjie, is crossed, and a second vaUey, named Alba, is entered, behind which is a large plain, from whence a descent is made into the basin of Doba, in the middle of which is situated the market of Tsaafti. Eighteenth day. Six hours. Assakelti. — The road leads through several interlaced valleys, which are bordered by hills with round summits, on which are grouped ham lets of an agreeable aspect. Several districts are thus traversed, of which the most important is that of Mehhane, foUowed by that of Aya, on leaving which a rugged mountain is climbed, which leads to a slope of the mountain of Mossobo. There is situated the village of Assakelti, the ordinary residence of the governor of Achangui. 15. Route from Messoah to Debra Abbaye. Eleventh day. Maye-Temene.— (See the route from Messoah to Debabgouna). Twelfth day. Five hours. Maye-Chebeni. — Road through plain. Thirteenth day. Five hours. Tembela. — Country hilly for the first part of the road; a plain covered with cotton and fields of maize is then reached. Fourteenth day. Eight hours. Debra-Abbaye. — Country wooded and cut up by ravines, where the principal cultivation is that of cotton. The market of Debra-Abbaye is one of the most important for ivory and furs. 16. Route from Messoah to Dembelasse. Sixth day. Koudofelassi. — (See the route from Messoah to Adowa). Seventh day. Dembelasse. — A descent is made by the western slope of the plateau of Serae. The inhabitants of Dembelasse are almost all hunters, and have the reputation of being cruel and inhospitable. 17. Route from Messoah to Samere. Antalo is passed; then, in one day, the plain of Sahharte is crossed; one of the angles of which touches the town of Samere. This market suppHes with grain a great part of Tigre ; excellent iron is also brought there by the inhabitants of the neighbouring province of Bora. 214 LIEUTENANT LEFEBVRE'S ROUTES. 18. Routes from Messoah to Sokota. The first passes by Achangui, from which Sokota is reached in a day and a-half; it is the road by the high country. The second passes by Samere and the vaUey of the Tellare (this road crosses an unhealthy country where the temperature is very high). The market of Sokota is on the road of the merchants who visit the Galla provinces to the east, and it is also the central point of the commerce with Ouadela and the Ouello tribes who possess the finest wools of Abyssinia. 19. Route from Adowa to Gondar. Fourth day. Maye-Temene. — (See the route from MessOah to Debabgouna). Fifth day. Maye-Chebeni. — Prairies. Sixth day. Maye-Temkate.— The road is through plains. Seventh day. May e- Ami— The Taccaze, which runs in a profound fissure, is crossed ; Maye-Aini is on the side opposite to Maye-Temkate, in the country of Berra Ouesseya. Eighth day. Four hours. Maye-TecUte. — As far as Maye-Kessate the country is level and the soU appears fertile ; but it is nevertheless nearly deserted, probably on account of the Charikallas, who sometimes make incursions there and massacre the isolated inhabitants. Between Maye-Aini and Maye- Kessate the River Sarentia, one of the affluents of the Taccaze, is met with. On leaving Maye-Kessate many hiUs are crossed, where the population begins to collect ; half-way the River Ounguiha is crossed. Ninth day. Eight hours. Debeubaheur. — The country traversed is formed by the prolongation of the spurs of the chain of Semiene, and these spurs form between them narrow valleys, in the. middle of which flow the Rivers Enzo, Bonheia, Ansia, Zarima. After crossing this last river a steep road is ascended for two hours until Debeubaheur is reached which is on tthe highest step of the mountain of Lamalmon. Tenth day. Five hours. Debarek. — The ascent, of Lamalmon is completed and a country of plains is entered, forming part of the province of Ouoguera. Before arriving at Debeubaheur the district of Outkefite is reached. Eleventh day. Seven hours. Chimberazeguene. — The road is through a plain covered with pasture, the country is weU peopled ; climate cold. Twelfth day. Eight hours. Tsdkdebeur. — The same country : but the plateau lowers whUst advancing south-west, and is covered by numerous brooks, which often, in winter,* stop the communication. Thirteenth day. Six hours. Gondar. — The road continues over plains untU the descent of Bambelo. Before arriving at Gondar the River Maguelche is crossed by a bridge. * Query, summer, which is the rainy season. LIEUTENANT LEFEBVRE'S ROUTES. 215 20. .First Route from Adowa to Basso. Thirteenth day. Gondar. — First route. Fourteenth day. Feurkabeur. — After descending from Gondar and traversing the River Kaah and Dembea-Gonmara, the road goes along the edge of Lake Tsana. Fifteenth day.' Ifag. — The road continues along the lake following a plain, bounded on the east by a chain with flat summits, on which are built the towns of Amba-Mariam, Emfraze, &c. Before reaching Ifag the River Arnogarno is crossed. Sixteenth day. MadSramariam. — After quitting Ifag the plain of Foguera is crossed which is watered by the River Reb. A chain of hiUs is then crossed and the country is broken as far as Maderamariam. The Httle River Goumara is met with on the road. Seventeenth day. Chime Guiorguis.^-The road follows green valleys ; halfway the River Gota is crossed. Eighteenth day. Andabeit. — The road through plains. You encamp on the border of a ravine which leads to the Nile. Nineteenth day. Mota. — The Nile is traversed, and Mota reached on the opposite bank. Twentieth day. Ouofite— Road through a plain. The Rivers Azouari and Teguidar are crossed. Twenty-first day. Debraouerk.— Road through a plain : some lulls before arriving at Debraouerk. The Rivers Ennate, Tchi, Guelguel-Tche, Idane, and Feza are passed. Twenty-second day. Yebeurte. — Through a plain. The country is furrowed by numerous brooks, which descend from the chain of Telba-Ouaha. Twenty-third day. Debeite. — Some hills are crossed, which are the ramifications of the chain of Telba-Ouaha. On leaving Debeite the country is generally woody. Twenty-fifth day. Dogate. — The Rivers Soa, Mouga, Betchet, and Bagana, are crossed, Twenty-seventh day (siemong). Yedje-OuUe. — The River Teda is crossed. Twenty-eighth day. Basso. — The River Tchamoga is crossed. 21. Second Route from Adowa to Basso. First day. Djenda. — Country of plains ; thickly peopled, and fertile, Second day. Takoussa. — The same, 216 LIEUTENANT LEFEBVRE'S ROUTES. Third day. Danguelbeur. — The province of Agao Medeur is reached. Fourth day. Atchafeur. — Over an elevated plateau, where pasturage abounds ; exceUent iron is found. Fifth day. Metcha. — Country of plains, in the middle of which rise the sources of the Blue Nile. Sixth day. Bowrie. — On the slope of the plateau of Agao Medeur. Seventh day. Denguelbeur. — A narrow pass is traversed, which leads to the high lands. Eighth day. , Atchafeu/r. — Country intersected with ravines. Atchafeur is the second town of this name in the province of Agao Medeur. Ninth day. Dembetcha. — On the chain of Telba-Ouaha. Tenth day. Godera. — Near this town the River Felane rises. Eleventh day. Basso. — The Rivers Fetane and Beur are crossed. 22. Route from Adowa to Charia. First day. Zoungui. — The districts of Addi-Kere and Serhi are traversed. The soU is rich and well cultivated, although mountainous, and cut by ravines. Second day. Aouxienne. — The River Oueri is passed, whose bed is profoundly shut in ; the rest of the road is over a plain. Third day. Aouza. — T£e Rivers Selheu and Gueba are passed ; the rest of the road is flat. Fourth day. Arena. — The River Agoula is crossed. Fifth day. Antalo. — Road level. The great brook Guembela is crossed. Sixth day. Beit Maria. — The River Boiulle is crossed. Seventh day. Sessate. — The high chain of Ouodgerate is crossed. Eighth day. TsadfU. — The Rivers Atsala and Aiba are crossed. Ninth day. Achangui. — One of the seven districts of the province of Doba. In the middle is a lake two leagues in diameter. Tenth day. Late. — An elevated chain, which borders lake Achangui to the south, is crossed, and you halt on the reverse of that of Aina, of which Tsera-Guedel forms one of the most elevated steps. LIEUTENANT LEFEBVRE'S ROUTES. 217 Twelfth day. Oualdia. — Capital of the province of Yedjou. The high lands of Lasta have been left behind, and a valley with a temperate climate entered. The Rivers Ala and Toukour are crossed. Thirteenth day. Guerado. — Mussulman district of the province Yedjou. The Rivers Edefe, Ouaha, Mersa, and Guerado, are passed. Fourteenth day. Sirba. — The districts of Sekala and Zeleteherk are traversed, and the province of Outchale entered. Fifteenth day. Cossaro. — The River Melle is crossed,' and the valleys of Djari and Katti ascended. Sixteenth day. Entcharo. — The slope of the chain which borders the. valley of Katti to the east is foUowed. Seventeenth day. Madjetie. — The valley Ouerakallo is foUowed, in which flows the River Borkenna. Eighteenth day. Cherefa. — The River Toukour is crossed, and you descend from the plateau of Guemza to the torrent of Lembelete, of which you ascend the bed as far as DouUoute. There you descend into the vaUey of Moukemeda, which is watered by the River Nazaro. The eastern slope of the high chain, of Which the foot has been followed since Oualdia, takes here the name of Guedme. Nineteenth day. Arogouratti. — The plain of Negnesso is traversed, in which run the, Rivers Djaou, Saour, and Gacha-belebde. Arogouratti is situated on a spur of the great chain in the district of Mengneuste. Twentieth day. Goudje-Amba. — Road crosses the plain of Bobi. Before ascending to Goudje-Amba, which is on the summit of an elevated peak, the River Robi is crossed. Twenty-first day. Teheuno. — Several spurs of the plateau of Choa are crossed. Be tween the twa last is the valley of Tchenno, watered by the River Aouadi. Twenty-second day. Aliyo-Amba. — After having crossed the spur which forms the southern side of the vaUey of Tchenno, several torrents which descend from the mountains of Ankober are crossed. AHyo-Amba is the point where exchanges are made between the caravans which come from the interior of Abyssinia and those which bring, by way of Tedjoura, the products of India or Europe. : 23. Route from Gondar to' Madjetie. First day. Four hours. Ambamariam. — The Rivers Sodie and Arnogamo are crossed. Second day. Five hours. Derita. — The heights of Ouaina Dega may be foUowed, or the plain which borders the lake. 218 LIEUTENANT LEFEBVRE'S ROUTES. Third day. Seven hours. Debratabor. — The River Reb is crossed. Fourth day. Six hours. Estie. — An elevated plateau, from which Lake Tsana is visible, is followed for some time, and a part of Godjam and Lasta. Fifth day. Eight honrs. Tchetcheo. — Flat country, where horses and cattle abound. The River Tchetcheo is crossed. Sixth Say. Six hours. Nebit. — Country watered by a great number of brooks, of which the greater part are affluents of the Taccaze. Seventh day. Seven hours. Daonie. — Country of high plateaux, where very fine wooUens are found, which form an important object of commerce with the rest of Abyssinia. Eighth day. Eight hours. Sekala. — The high plateaux are descended by a spur, which abuts on the vaUey Yedjou. Ninth day. Five hours. Sirba. — The road foUows the fertile plain of Zetetcherk, which is a dependence of Yedjou, and, after surmounting several hills, the market of Sirba is reached. Tenth day. Seven hours. Kossaro. — The River Melle is crossed ; then, ascending the vaUeys of Djari and Katti, the pass of Kossaro is reached in a cold and wet country. Eleventh day. Four hours. Combolaha. — A descent is made from the pass of Kossaro into the basin of Combolcha, which is surrounded on all sides by high moun tains. Twelfth day. Koterne. — You debouch by a defile between the Aini-Amba and Tgof into the Valley Ouasekallo, watered by the River Borkenna. The town of Koterne is situated on an isolated mamelon. Thirteenth day. Seven hours. Madjetie. — The River Borkenna and several of its affluents are crossed. The country is flat and well wooded. 24. Route from Gondar to Melaksanko. Seventh day. Damie.— (See the road from Gondar to Madjetie.) Eighth day. Eight hours. Melahsanka. — The Bachelo is crossed. 25. Route from Adowa to Gouraguie. Twenty-second day. AHyo-Amba. — (See the itinerary from AdoWa to AHyo-Amba.) Twenty-third day. Eight hours. Dililla. — Several very elevated steps are ascended, and the province of Boulga is entered, on an elevated plateau at the foot of Mount Meguezaze. LIEUTENANT LEFEBVRE'S ROUTES. 219 Twenty-fourth day. Nine hours. Bora-Addo.— -You continue to follow the high lands of Boulga, which are rich in cultivation and pasture. Twenty-fifth day. Six hours. Aouache. — Fertile and well-peopled plains. Country for cavalry. Twenty-sixth day. Seven hours. Soddo.— The country of Soddo composed of fertile hiUs, with clumps of forest trees, is crossed. Twenty-seventh day." Nine hours. Absala.-^- Road across a wooded country, where a very high tree, called Zegba, may be specially remarked. Twenty-eighth day. Eight hours.* Ahimelele. — This country is covered with coffee trees. Twenty-ninth day. Seven hours. Lake Zouaye. — This lake occupies the centre of the province of Goiiraguie. Seven islands maybe counted on it, of which the principal is Debrasina. 26. Route from Aliyo-Amba to Saka. First day. Eight hours. Angolola. — The torrent Airara is crossed, and the ascent cHmbed which leads to the plateau of Choa. The road afterwards is almost entirely flat. The country is generaUy cultivated, and produces abun dance of corn and barley, but not a single tree is seen. Halfway an affluent of the River Beresa is crossed, and, two hours before arriving at Angolola, that river itself is crossed. Second day. Eight hours. Fintchoa. — The River Tchatcha is passed, and yon march through a thinly inhabited country, although the soU is fertile. Third day. Seven hours. Messeur-Medeur. — Country of plains. Some unimportant brooks are crossed. Fourth day. Nine hours. Boguie. — You descend a step, and almost immediately cross the Guermana, an affluent of the Aouache, As far as the hills of Roguie the road passes in the midst of meadows and fields, where corn, theff, and some vegetables, are grown. The country is watered by the River Hakaki, several affluents of which are met with. Fifth day. Five hours. Endode. — You descend a step, which leads to the vaUey of Aouache, leaving to the east the mountain of Fouri, and to the wes^ that of Endotto. At the foot of this step the country is covered with mag nificent pasturage, which extends as far as Endode. Sixth day. NinC hours. Belcho Ori. — The Aouache is crossed, and a well-peopled country is entered. Barley and corn is principally cultivated. Seventh day. Ten hours. Oualisso. — The road continues across a plain, but the country becomes wooded, and it is furrowed by a great number of watercourses, which fall into the River Ouahabe. Eighth day. Ten hours. Saka. — The River Ouahabe, running to the south-east, is crossed. The country lowers towards the south, and forms several basins, sepa- 220 LIEUTENANT LEFEBVRE'S' ROUTES. rated by low bills, at the foot of which the coffee tree is cultivated. Halfway the Guibe is crossed, which the Abyssinians say is larger than the Nile. 27. Route from Aliyo-Amba to the country of Aoussa. -- First day. Six hours. Tchenno. — Country of lulls.- The River Kalena is crossed. Second day. Eight hours. Mafoude. — The River Aouadi is crossed. By the defile of Keraba a tolerably high chain is passed, which forms one of the spurs of the plateau of Choa. Behind this spur is another parallel one, which must be crossed before reaching the valley of Mafoude. Third day. Four hours. Mengueuste. — The hills of Mafoude' are descended, at the foot of which is the River Robi ; a vast plain, partly desert and weU wooded, is then entered. The elephant, and all carnivorous animals, are very common in it. Fourth day. Seven hours. Cherefa. — The hills of Mengueuste are descended, and the plain- of Neguesso entered, where maize and cotton are cultivated. This plain is. watered by the Djaou and three of its affluents, which all descend from the platbau of Choa. After having traversed Djaou you ascend to Cherefa. Fifth day. Eight hours. Saramba. — On leaving Cherefa, you descend into a fertile, well- peopled plain, whose inhabitants are Mussulmans ; several hills are then crossed, and the plain of Mouka Meda entered, in the middle of which flows the River Nazaro ; it is at the western edge of this plain, at the foot of the chain of Guedme, that the town called Saramba is situated. Sixth day. Six hours. Madjetie. — The River Nazaro is crossed a second time, and you arrive, by the ascent of DouUoute, at the head of the vaUey of Sembelete, which is then descended until it debouches into the plain of Chafa. The River Toukour is then crossed, and an ascent made to the plateau of Guemza. Madjetie is situated on the first step. Seventh day. Seven hours. Belde. — Several large brooks, which descend from the plateau of Guemza, water the plain of Chafa, which is traversed during this day. A short time before reaching R6kie the River Borkenna is crossed. Eighth day.' Eight hours. Leide. — Country hilly and intersected by ravines. Ninth day. Six hours. Ilala. — Country cultivated, but inhabited by Gallas who are exceed ingly inhospitable. Tenth day. Seven hours. Kaah. — The aspect of the country does not change. Eleventh day. Six hours. Tad. — The country is inhabited by exceedingly ferocious tribes of Gallas. These tribes are nomade ; their wealth consists in flocks and camels. Twelfth day. Seven hours. Bakarsa.—The banks of the River Melte are followed, forming two strips of verdure, rather narrow, beyond which the soil is very arid. BRUOE'S JOURNEY, ETC. 221 Thirteenth day. Sis hours. Agamti. — The banks of the river Melle are still followed. Fourteenth day. Six hours. Melle. — The River Melle is crossed, and a halt made on the left bank. Fifteenth day. Seven hours. Arabatessa. — The country, generally sandy and desert, is strewa with oases tolerably well peopled. Sixteenth day. Seven hours. Tchefi. — Country the same. Seventeenth day. Six hours. Aoussa. — The Aouache is crossed. The banks of the River Aouache are wooded. They are frequented by wandering tribes, but they make no stay there, because the air is unhealthy. Aoussa is the capital of a Httle province of the Adal country. The neighbourhood is cultivated, but to the productions of the soil the inhabitants of Aoussa join the profits of commerce. Aoussa is one of the great marts of exchange between the high lands of Abyssinia and several ports of the Red Sea, ZeUa, Tedjoura, Befoul and Eide. 28. Rolte from Entcharo to Aoussa. From Entcharo, Leide is reached in five hours. (For the rest of the route see the itinerary from AHyo-Amba to Aoussa). 29. Route from Aoussa to Tedjoura. First day. Five hours. The Aouache is crossed and Bila reached. Second day. Seven hours. Kourkoura is reached. Third day. Six hours. To Arho. Fourth day. Seven hours. To Dourgourgoura. Fifth day. Seven hours. To Kaballe. To Raheta. To Arguita. To Heigounoal. Sixth day. Eight hours. Seventh day. Eight hours. Eighth day. Eight hours: Ninth day. Nine hours. To Tedjoura. The 'Whole of this route is inhabited by ferocious people against whom it is necessary to be always on your guard. BRUCE'S JOURNEY FROM MASSOWAH TO GONDAR IN NOVEMBER, 1769 (marked D, I, and J on Map, page 39). According to Achmet's desire, we left Arkeeko the 15th November, See Map*. 1769, taking our road southward, along the plain, which is not here P*|es us above a mile broad, and covered with short grass nothing different from ours onlv that the blade is broader. After an hour's journey, I pitched ' Q 222 bepge's 3.f the torj3en.t. The weather had been pe*- FROM MASSOWAH TO GONDAR. 223 fleetly good since we left Masuali ; this afternoon, however, it seemed to threaten rain ; the high mountains were quite hid, and great part of ,"- ¦¦;'-, ,-•/ ¦-•,<,¦ 242 bruce's journey them ; but beyond the vaUey all is Shahagaanah. to the root of Lamal mon. At a quarter past seven, the village- pf Gingerohha wag three miles on our right ; and we were now ascending Lamalmon, through a very narrow road, or rather path, for it scarcely was two feet wide any where. It was a spiral winding up the side of the mountain, always on the very brink of a precipice. Torrents of water, which in winter carry prodigious -stones down the side of this mountain, had divided this path into several places, and opened to us a view of that dreadful abyss below, which few heads can (mine at least could not) bear to look down upon. On the 9th. February, at seven o'clock, we took leave of. the friends whom we had so. newly acquired at Lamalmon, all cf us equally joyful and happy at the news. We began to asoend what stiU remained of the mountain, which, though steep and fuU of bushes, was .much less difficult than that which we had passed. At a quarter-past seven we arrived at the top of, Lamalmon, which has from below the appearance of being sharp-pointed. On the contrary, we were much surprised to find there a large plain, part in pasture, but more bearing grain. It is full of springs, and seems to be the great reservoir from whence arise most of the rivers that water this part of Abyssinia. A multitude of" streams issue from the very summit in all directions ; the springs boU out, from the earth, in large, quantities, capable of turning a mill. They plough, sow, and reap here at all seasons ; and the husbandman must blame his own indolence, and not the soil, if, he has not three harvests- We saw, in one place, people busy cutting down wheat ; immediately next to it others at the plough, and the adjoining' field had green corn hi the ear ; ai little farther it was not an inch above the ground. Lamalmon is on the N.W. part of the mountains of Samen. That of 'Gingerohha, with two pointed tops, joins it on the north, and ends these mountains- here, and is separated from the plain of St. Michael by a very deep gulley. Neither Lamalmon nor Gingerohha,, though higher than the mountains =of Tigre, are equal in height to. some of those of Samen. I take those to the S.E. to be much higher, and, above all, that sharp-pointed hill Amba Gideon, the present residence of the Governor of Samen, Ayto . Tesfos. This is otherwise caUed the Jews Bock, famous in the history of this country for the many revolts of the Jews against the Abyssinian kings. ¦ The mountain is everywhere so steep and high that it is not enough to say against (the will, but without the assistance of those above, no one from below can venture to ascend. On the top is a large plain, affording plenty of pasture, as weU as room for ploughing and sowing for the maintenance of the army, and there, is water at aH seasons in great plenty, and even fish in the streams upon it ; so that, although the inhabitants of the mountain had been often besieged for a consider able time together, they suffered Httle . inconvenience from it, nor ever were taken unless by treason, except by Christopher de Gama and his Portuguese, who are said, by their own historians, to have stormed this rock, and put the Mahometan garrison to the sword. No mention, of this honorable conquest is made in the annals of Abyssinia, . though they give the history of this campaign of Don Christopher in the life of Claudius, or Atzenaf Segued., , , ' Ori the top of the cliff where we now were, on the left hand of the road io Gondar, we filled a tube with quick-silver, and purged it per fectly of outward air ; it stood this day at 20| English inches.. Dagashaha bears N.E. by E. from our .present .station upon Lamalmon. The language of Lamalmon is Amharic, but there are riiany vUlages FROM MASSOWAH TO GONDAR. 243 where the language of the Falasha is spoken. These are the ancient inhabitants of the mountains, who still preserve the religion, language, and _ manners of their ancestors, arid live in viUages by themselves. Their number is now considerably diminished, and this has propor tionally lowered their power and spirit. They are now whoUy addicted to agriculture, hewers of wood and carriers of water, and the only potters and masons in Abyssinia. In the -former profession they excel greatly, and, in general, Hve better than the other Abyssinians, which these in revenge attribute to a skUl in magic, not to superior industry. THeir vUlages are generaUy strongly situated out of the reach of marching armies, otherwise they would be constantly rifled, partly from Hatred and partly from hopes of finding money. On the 10th, at half-past Seven in the morning, we continued along the plain on the top of Lamalmon ; it is caUed Lama ; and a viUage bf " the same name bore about two nriles east from us. At eight o'clock we passed two viUages called Mocken, one W.by N. at one mfle and a half, the other S.E. two miles distant. At half-past eight we crossed the River- Macara, a considerable stream running with a very great current, which is the boundary between Woggora and Lamalmon. At nine o'clock we encamped at some small villages called Macara, under a church named Yasous. On the 11th of February, by the meridian altitude of the sun at noon, and that of several fixed stars proper for observation, I found the latitude of Macara to be 13° 6' 8". The ground was everywhere burnt up, and though the nights were very cold, we had not observed the smaUest dew since our first ascending: the mountain. The province of Woggora' begins at Macara ; it is ali plain, and reckoned the granary of Gondar on this side, although the- 'name would denote no such thing, for Woggora signifies the stony or- rocky province. The inountains of Lasta and Belessen bound our view to the south ; the hiUs of Gondar on the S.W., and aU Woggora lies open before us to the south, covered, as I have said ¦ before, with grain. . But the wheat of Woggora is not good, owing probably to the 'height of that province. It makes an indifferent bread, and is much less esteemed than that of Woggora and Dembea, low, flat provinces, sheltered with hills, that lie upon the side of the lake Tzana. On the 12th we left Macara at seven in the morning, still travelling through the plain of Woggora: At half-past seven saw ,two vUlages caUed Erba Tenfa, one of them a mile distant, the other half a mile on the N.W. At eight o'clock we came to Woken, five vUlages not two hundred yards distant from one another. At a quarter past eight we saw five other viUages to the S.W. caUed Warrar, from orie to four mUes distant, aU between the points of east- and south: The country now grows inconceivably populous, vast flocks of cattle of aU kinds feed on every side, having large and beautiful horns, exceedingly wide, and bosses upon then- backs Hke camels ; their colour is mostly black. At a quarter past eigbtiwe passed Arena, a village on our left. At nine we passed the River Girama, which. runs N.N. W. and terminates the district of Lamalmon, beginning that bf Giram. At ten the church of Str. George remained on our right, one- mUe from us ; we crossed- a river caUed Shimbra Zuggan, and encamped about two hundred yards . from it. The valley of that name is more broken and uneven than 'any riart we had met with since we ascended Lamalmon. The valley caUed also Shimbra Zuggan is two mUes and a half ,N. by E. on the top Of a hiU surrounded with trees. Two smal brooks, the one from S. S.E. the other fremi S.E. jom here, then fall into the rivulet. 244 bruge's journey, etc. The 13th, at seven in the morning, we proceeded still along the plain ; at half-patet seven came to Arradara, and afterwards saw above twenty other villages on our right and left, ruined and destroyed from the lowest foundation by Ras Michael in his late march to Gondar. At half-past eight the church of Mariam was about a hundred yards on our left. At ten we encamped under Tamamo. The country here is full of people ; the villages are mostly ruined, which, in some places, they are rebuilding. It is whoUy sown with grain of different kinds, but more especially with wheat. For the production of this they have everywhere extirpated the wood, and now labour under a great scarcity of fuel. Since we passed Lamahnon, the only substitute for this was cows' and mules' dung, which they gather, make into cakes, and dry in the sun. From Addergey hither, salt is the current - money, in large purchases such as sheep or other cattle ; cohol and pepper for smaUer articles, such as flour, butter, fowls, &c. At Shimhra Zuggan they first began to inquire after red Surat cotton cloth, for which they offered us thirteen bricks of salt ; four peeks of this red cloth are esteemed the price of a goat. We began to find the price of provisions augment in a great proportion as we approached the capital. This day we met several caravans going to Tigre, a certain sign of Michael's victory ; also vast flocks of cattle driven from the rebelhous provinces, which were to pasture on Lamalmon, and had been purchased from the army. Not only the country was now more cultivated, but the people were cleanlier, better dressed, and apparently better fed than those in the other parts we had left behind us. Indeed from Shimhra Zuggan hither there was not a foot excepting the path on which we trod that was not sown with some grain or other. On the 14th, at seven o'clock in the morning, we continued our journey. At ten minutes past seven we had five villages of Tamamo three nrites on our left ; our road was through gentle rising hiUs, aU pasture ground. At half past seven the viUage of Woggora was three mites on our right, and at eight the church of St. George a mile on our left, with a village of the same name near it ; and ten minutes after Angaba Mariam, a church dedicated to the virgin, so-called from the small territory Angaba, which we are now entering. At fifty minutes past eight we came to five villages caUed Angaba, at small distances from each other. At nine o'clock we came to Kossogue, and entered a "small district of that name. The church is on a hUl surrounded with. trees. On our left are five villages, aU called Kossogue, and, as it were on a line, the farthest at three mUes distance ; near ten we came to the church of Argiff in the midst of many ruined viUages. Three miles on our left hand are several others called Appano. After having suffered with infinite patience and perseverance the hardships and danger of this long and painful journey, at forty minutes past ten we were gratified at last with the sight of Gondar, according to my computation about ten miles distance. The king's palace (at least the tower of it) is distinctly seen, but none of the other houses, which arc covered by the mnltitude of wanzey trees growing in the town, so that it appears one thick, black wood. Behind it is Azazo, likewise covered with trees. On a hill is the large church of Tecla Haimanout, and the river betew it makes it distinguishable ; stUl ¦ farther on is the great lake Tzana,, which terminates onr horizon. At forty-five minutes past ten we began to ascend about two mUes through a broken road, having on our right in the vaUey below the river Tchagassa; and here begins the •¦ territory . of that name. At fifty-five minutes past ten, descending stiU the bill, we passed a large STEUDNER'S JOURNEY PROM CHANKAR, ETC. 245 spring of water, called Bambola, together with several plantations of sugar canes which grow here from the seed. At eleven o'clock the vUlage Tchagassa was about half a nrile distant from us on our right on the other side of the river. It is inhabited by Mahometans, as is WaaHa, another small one near it. At twelve o'clock we passed the river Tchagassa over a bridge of three arches, the middle of which is Gothic, the two lesser Roman. This bridge, though smaU, is soHd and well cemented, bunt with stone by order of Facilidas, who probably employed those of his subjects who had retained the arts of the Portuguese, but not thefr religion. The Tchagassa has very steep, rocky banks. It is so deep, though narrow, that without this bridge it scarce would be passable. We encamped at a smaU distance from it, but nearer Gondar. Here again we met with trees (smaU ones indeed), but the first We had seen since leaving Lamalmon, excepting the usual groves of cedars. It is the Virginia cedar or oxy-cedros, in this country called Arz, with which their churches are constantly surrounded. On the 15th, at ten minutes past seven, we began to ascend the mountain ; and at twenty minutes after seven passed a village on our left. At seven and three-quarters we passed Tiba and Mariam, two churches, the one on our right, the other on our left, about half a mile distant ; and near them several small viUages inhabited by Falasha, masons, and thatchers of houses employed at Gondar. At half-past eight we came to the viUage Tocutcho, and in a quarter of an hour passed the river of that name, and in a few minutes rested on the river Angrab, about half a mUe from Gondar. Tchagassa is the last of the many little districts which together eompose Woggora, generaUy understood to be dependent on Samen, though often, from the turbulent spirit of its chiefs, struggling for independency, as at the present time, but sure to pay for it immediately after. In fact, though large, it is too near Gondar to be suffered to continue in rebellion ; and being rich and well cultivated, it derives its support from the capital as being the mart of its produce. It is certainly one of the. fruitfultest provinces in Abyssinia, but the inhabi tants are miserably poor, notwithstanding their threefold harvests. Whereas in Egypt, beholden to this country alone for its fertility, one moderate harvest gives plenty everywhere. Woggora is frill of large ants and prodigious swarms of rats and mice which consume immense quantities of grain ; to these plagues may he added still one, the greatest of them aU, bad government, which speedily destroys aU the advantages they reap from nature, climate, and situation. STEUDNER'S* JOURNEY FROM CHANKAR (SOUTH-WEST OF GONDAR) TO MAGDALA, 1862 (marked S on Map, page 39). The plain of Dembea is void of trees, shrubs, and stones, and skulls of cattle are used for the outlets, of the channels, constructed to irri gate the fertile soU. We continued three-quarters of an hour to Serava, a village of some size. On the road we met immense herds of cattle belonging to the SeUam -They are Christians and migratory herdsmen. A tract along the lake as far as Fogara is reserved for their herds, and it is not permitted to cultivate it, . It bears a luxariant 246 STEUDNErV JOURNEY' FROM" CHANKAR vegetation of grass, and is called Aravie. The Sellan live iri hemi spherical straw huts, similar to, those of the Bogos. They are under a chief, who assigns every herd its pasturing ground. During the rainy season they, with their herds, are in the low lands tqwards Metamma, and on the first of Maskarem (10th September) they come to the plateau along the lake. Between Chankar and Serava we crossed the Dirma, which enters the lake near the Eastern Cape of Oorgora, which is -called Debra Sina. 24th February. — We only travelled two hours this day direct to the east, as far as the village Adisgie. The very fertile plain is partly cultivated especiaUy with O'arthumus (Shuf). Extensive flats of luxuriant grass, alternate with very fertile fields, ' The plain of Dem bea is entirely without trees ;. the many. viUages lie in dense woods or thickets formed of Dona.v trees (shambuko), 30 to 35 feet high, among which is seen occasionally a willow or a tree Hke Veronia. The houses are built of shambuko, the only budding material of the 'district, and covered with grass. 'The dried dung of cows forms the only fuel, and throws out much heat. The water, at this time of the year, is scooped from wells 10 to 14 feet deep. The Dembea plain is very healthy, as the wind blows twice a-day from the lake, but the districts of Dingel Ber and Foggara suffer from fevers. The nights in Dembea are very cold when compared to the temperature during the day. Water is always found 8 to 10 feet below the surface, but 'the soil, where it. is not covered with high, 'thick grass,, is traversed by fissures 1 to 3 feet deep which render riding difficult. The ground is perfectly level and free from stones, and the shambuko woods, in which lie the viUages and churches, form the only breaks in the plain. Beyond Adisgie we crossed the ' Magetch, and 25 minutes after we had left the vUlage a small rivulet, the Guasa, and further on, at the eastern corner of the lake, the Woin Arab. The two latter come from Amba. Chara. As far as Ambo we rode along the grassy Dembea plain, generaUy close to the shore of the lake, which was enEvened by thousands of geese,, ducks, and black swans A few viUages of the despised Woito, who live all round and subsist . principaUy from fishing and hunting the hippopotamus, which they eat to the horror of all orthodox Abyssinians, are close to the shore. The huts of the Woito resemble those of the Sellan. . . . Here I t saw the first boats. They are made of a very Hght sort of cane (" Dongola"), tied together. Some of these canes are as thick as an arm. They are perhaps a papyrus, and grow in Gurafa and Alafa. These boats are called Tanguas. They are 12 to 20 feet long, are pointed and turned up at both ends, and have a flat bottom. They at once fill in part with water, but do not capsize or sink. They are only used along shore. After a ride of two hoprs and three-quarters, first over the plain of Dembea, then through tracts covered with dense shrubs of acacias, rolwal, stunted dates, &c, alternating with fine meadows, we reached the Amo-Garno, below the junction.pf the Arno and Garno In three-quarters of an hour we reached the village Emfras, con sisting of a few huts, hidden amongst splendid fig and wonsa trees. The Shum of this place is known as one of the greatest rogues of this neighbourhood. ;" 26th. — We started early, crossed the hiUy district of Tisba. After ascending for nearly two hours ariridst the most luxuriant shrubs, we reached a plain, also covered with shrubs. Mount Efag rose above it, (SOUTH-WEST "OF GONDAJ TO MAGDALA. 247 towards the south. After three hours' ride from Emfras, we reached the market place of Efag, which lies on the south foot of Mount Efag, and dismounted in the shade of gigantic juniper trees, surrounding a church. The market held Here is the most important of Southern Abyssinia, with the exception of that of Baso, in Gojam. We found here on sale 300 to 400 oxen, as many asses and rnules,'80 to 100 horses, , (one of which caused universal admiration, and was sold for 11 thalers, tie ordinary price for a good horse varying between 2 and 5 thalers). There was on sale riiuch cotton and coffee (35 Notfe cost 1 thaler). 28 pieces of salt cost 1 thaler. . .... The grape disease has destroyed nearly aU the vines. . . We continued another half-hour over the plain of Foggara, to a large village. 27th,— On the next morning, riding over the extremely fertile but bare plain of Foggara, we reached the Reb in three-quarters of an hour. Its bed is cut deep into the fertrie soU. We waded through the river. An old Portuguese bridge, still passable, is at some distance from our ford. Our road led us for three hours and a quarter through the fertUe plain to the sinuous bed of the Sellien Woha (Date Water). The plain is bare, excepting some isolated shrubs of acaciasi Another hour through a similar country brought us to Ambo, where there are several mineral, springs in the bed of the Ferren Wuha. . . One quarter ef an . hour after we had left Ambo, we passed the isolated rock Amora Geddel, i.e., Eagle's Eyrie, which rises at least. 250 feet above the plain, and is inaccessible, and then continued at a rapid pace towards the high slope of the Debra Tabor plateau. As the sun disappeared in the lake towards the west, we had ascended the highest of the rocky terraces, aU of which bore a luxuriant vegetation. The air up here was cold, and there was a fog. Our guide, in the darkness and in the unifornily undulating country, lost his way. At one time we blundered through cultivated fields, then through dense shrubs. We crossed the beds of torrents .... and at length, at 9 p.m., we reached the mis sionary station Gaffatt (near Debra Tabor) 8th March-— We left Gaffatt on 8th March. We rode through several well cultivated mountain valleys, showing splendid wheat 'fields between ¦wooded hiUs, on which stood churches. After one hour's ride* we con tinued along a bad road for one hour and a quarter to the Reb, which here rushes along its rocky bed between olive trees. We passed the village and district of Gulqtial. The road gradually ascends, through shrubs of rose trees and hypericum to the bare plateau of Guna. Twice more we Had to cross the Reb, about 2 or 3 feet deep, before reaching the plateau. The latter "is bare, cultivated in places, and has an alti tude of 9,800 to 10,000 feet. Aloes, clover, erica, and hypericum are met with, but generaUy speaking the plateau is barren. ... It rained . . temperature 48° F. . . We were obliged to dismount, for our mules could hardly keep their footing on the fat, slippery sofl. We crossed several streams flowing north-east and east towards the Takazze. After an uninterrupted march of five hours arid a-half, we ascended another 500 feet, and half-an-hour afterwards we reached Dettera, a vfllage in the Sittim district (10,500 feet). . . It rained arid thundered until late at night. ¦ • • "9th March. — As the ground -was stUl quite wet, we only got away at half-past seven, and even then riding was not very pleasant, and we preferred to lead.our mules. . . We continued in a south-east.direc- tion over parallel ranges of HiUs* 200 to 400 feet high, as far as a rather considerable rivulet, running along its rocky bed to the Takazze, where we Tialted after a riiarcn of three hours. On the left (north-east) deep 248 STEUDNER'S JOURNEY FROM CHANKAR vaUeys descended towards the Takazze. . . We had here a fearful shower of rain and HaU. . . We were again obliged to lead our animals over the slippery ground. . The road ascends gradually as far as Checheho, and we were probably again 10,500 feet above the sea, when we reached the eastern edge of the plateau, The descent along the steep but broad road, in its present state, wUl always be stored in our memories. At this place a small " Amba" rises on the narrow back of a range, between deep valleys.' It bears the promising name of Nefas Motcha,, that is, "Windy Road," and fully deserves that name. At the Amba there resides one of the missionaries, who directs the con struction of a road from Nefas Motcha to Zebit. We were hardly able to chmb the Amba, though it only rises 200 feet above the road. 10th March.— On the 10th we started late, and rode alongthe newly made road, first towards the north-north-east, then east-north-east along the mountain slope, and crossed, after two hours, a narrow mountain pass, beyond and above the church Medhanie Alem. The slopes of the mountains and rocky precipices rise up to 10,500 feet, and still bear a dense vegetation of acacias, olives, &c. The new road only goes a short distance beyond the narrow pass, and soon we ascended up a steep zigzag path, through splendid groves of olives, about 400 feet, to the edge of the plateau of Zebit, which attains an elevation of 11,000 feet. The soil of the plateau is excellent, and shrubs of hyperi cum, oHves, and celastus grow. Half an hour east of the plateau there is the small village of Zebit, with large stores of grain, guarded by a Shum and some soldiers. . . The rocks from Gaffat to this place are volcanic "; trachytes and fine basalts are met with. The plateau of Zebit is riot cultivated at all, but in the adjoining valleys and on the terraces of the mountain slopes there are many fields of barley, whUst teff is grown in the lower valleys. We met numerous herds of cattle. The breeding of mules and asses flourishes. It rained and haded almost throughout the day. 11th March. — From Zebit we marched three hours and a half over the level plateau to Gergera. The plateau is almost without cultivation or water, and there are shrubberies of roses, celastrus, oHves, etc. In some places the plateau is scarcely more than a quarter of an hour in width. At Gergera we descended to the plateau of Wadela, which is well cultivated in some parts. We only passed one smaU vUlage of five or six huts, as most of the villages are buUt on the terraces of the slopes, away from the road. After a ride of nearly two hours (from Gergera) towards the east-south-east, we reached Wokieta viUage, situate on a terrace of the northern slope of the Wadela plateau. 12th M'«t7i.— Next morning we ascended by a veiy bad road the upper terrace of Wadela, the real plateau, which we had only left to camp near Wokieto. The plateau sinks very gradually, and some isolated flat hUls excepted, it is level. It is covered with grass to the neighbourhood of Betehor, and there are scarcely any fields. On ap proaching Betehor district, churches and hamlets are perceived on the isolated HUls rising on the plateau. The bottoms, where water remains longer, are well cultivated. On the plateau there is only short grass. . . Juniper and olive trees are found near the churches. We rode three hours in the forenoon to the rivulet of Yannicha Gedus Mikael, where we stayed one hour. There was rather much water in the rivulet. Like the following rivulets it flows to the lidda. We now crossed a flat, aloe-covered bill, along the eastern foot of which flows the considerable rivulet Bansh Etie to the lidda. There were ducks and geese, also an Ibis. We rode in a north-east direction (SOUTH-WEST OF G0NDA)-T0 MAGDALA. 20 over the undulating plateau, past the church Beit Yohannis, to a group of houses in the Betehor district, where we arrived after an afternoon ride of two hours, and pitched our tent on the ground saturated by this day's rain. . . . These plateaux are scooped out towards their centre, rising thence towards the edges. This day, for instance, we descended to 9,700 feet, and then gradually ascended again 300 feet towards the edge. 13th March. — After an hour'.s march we reached a rivulet, swoUen by the rains, and rushing over the perpendicular columns of basalt forming its bed, towards the Djidda. We sought a long time for a ford to wade through this torrent, the name of which we could not ascertain. It probably is the Wons Bahr, which we passed on pur journey back near where it falls into the vaUey. After another three quarters of an hour we reached the upper edge of the Edda valley, near the church of Betehor. The lidda valley is 2,500 to 2,800 feet deep. Wadela, similarly to Talanta, slopes down to the river in two terraces. The upper terrace, 800 to 900 feet high, is passed on a road not very badly constructed, and thus reaches the lower and broader terrace, where are many acacias and Kolkwal trees. This terrace is about half an hour wide, and at its edge we met several hundred monkeys. From the ruins of a church we descended 1,800 feet, over a very steep zigzag path, to the principal terrace. Our mules, not being able to pass, went by a broader path along the terrace which leads down to a narrow valley joining the lidda ; and though they travelled a longer distance, they reached the river nearly as quickly as we did. The lower slopes are very steep, and full of channels formed by the water rushing down. They bear a luxuriant growth of shrubs,, bu^ there are no trees. The lowest slope is quite perpendicular, Hke the topmost one. Descending along the edge of the lowest terrace took us a long hour, whflst we had done the npper, one in half an hour. The rocks consist of trachytic lava and basalt, as weU asgreywacke. . . .. The bed of the Bdda at this spot is 120 to 150 paces wide, and filled with boulders varying in size from a fist to a man's head, and the river rushes through these in three branches, each ten to twelve paces wide, and two feet deep. Owing to- the rapid current, and to the depth of some places, the river cannot be forded everywhere, and where we crossed it, though the depth did not exceed eighteen inches^or two feet, our people and animals had to make some effort to maintain themselves. The opposite side of the valley corresponds in all respects to that of Wadela, down which we had come. After a short rest in the shade of fine sycamores, by the river side, we ascended a very- steep,, broad, zigzag edge — the first, principal terrace— and. we passed the night in the vfllage Averkut, a short distance east of the road. The village is surrounded by fields ; the church pf the viUage, Chaot gumma Giyorgis, stands in a grove of Kolkwal trees. 14>th March. — We started at 8 A.m. ; rode for half an hour over the plateau, through fields and acacia shrubs, and then ascended the upper terrace by a zigzag path, We reached the upper plateau, after a march of one hour and a half. It is bare, has a rich black sofl,.and we. saw many fields from which the harvest had, been taken home. Talanta Baha a church on the plateau, was south of us. We left it on the right. We rode south-south-east over the plateau of Talanta ; and one hour and three-quarters after we had left the edge of the Edda valley, we reached that of the Beshilo. The upper edges of the BeshUo vaUey are much farther apart than, those of the lidda, .At our feet we per ceived the vaUey of the BeshUo^ $'0QQ to 3,500 feet deep, and beyond it 250 steudneb's. journey from ghankar,, eiu. rose the many plateaux of Woro Haimanot, of smaU 0ley,aj}iona their edges, cut off, perpendicularly ; and between them rose; the Amba of the Negus, Magdala, and the plateau of Tauta towards thesouth-east. , . The upper descent is very steep, and .there are many Kolkwal trees, whilst on the lower slopes there are acacias, and shrubs. The stony path at first leads past columns of. basalt,, down a steep declivity. It then intersects a layer of white sandstone, and after having crossed the narrow lower terrace it leads down a steep zigzag path,.,fuU of rolling stones, to the river bed. We found the. bodies of many animals who had succumbed to fatigue, or fallen down the precipices, along the road.. In some parts, the passage is rendered possible by rude bridges, formed of the trunks of. trees, and covered with brushwood and earth. The bed of the, river is about 150 paces wide, and full of boulders of basalt, amongst which the river, at present 30 paces wide,, flaws along with a strong current. We rested in the bed of the river from one to three ¦o'clock, and then rode up the bed. of a tributary stream for two hours in a south direction. ... . , We ascended steadUy, but graduaUy, as far as a hill in front of Magdala,.. and- ascended it by a steep zigzag path. There are here several small viUages on the advanced hills around the fortress, between narrow, ravines,, four to five hundred feet deep,, and densely covered with Kolkwal. We pitched our tent close to two huts, on the summit of the hill. 15th March, 1862. — On the foUowing day we ascended a steep,, stony path to Magdala. A mere chance and. the strength of rny mule here saved me from a> fall down the precipice . . . On reaching the lower ter race of the mountain,, we found ourselves on a smaU plateau, above which rises perpendicularly on the highest terraces the fortress proper. We now rode in the midst of rocks. This is the advanced fortress, for the citadel, if I may be. permitted to use that term, rises further south ¦on the same plateau. On that part of the plateau which Hes between the advanced fortress and the Amba, serving as citadel, there are a few houses called Islam-gie. This portion, however, also forms part of the fortress, and it, can be defended easfly, as it rises on most points perpendicularly from the vaUey to a height of six to eight hundred feet. The advanced northern Amba is not as high as the main fortress which -commands it, as well as the plateau. The main fortress rises several hundred feet above the plateau of Islam-gie, and on that side there are some inconsiderable works in masonry, to fill up some gaps which might, possibly be escaladed. A few other points are defended by abatis, but for the rest it is a fortress by nature. As we wer^ not permitted to pass the main Amba, we were not able to reach the principal road lead ing to Tanta, we descended a narrow, almost perpendicular path, on the eastern side of the Amba, for several hundred feet, to the spurs of the mountain,, and thence, by less steep paths down to the bottom of the Woro Haimanot valley, which is about 1,500 feet below the plateau of the fortress. I do not think a European mule could have got down this path, even without a burden. In the bottom of the vaUey we found some water in a hole' of the dry bed of the river, and there we rested for some time . ., . The ascent to Tanta, on the other side of the vaUey, though fatiguing owing to- the stony path, was mere child's play ¦compared to the descent from Magdala. Tanta is not a vUlages but a fortified plateau, forming part of the ¦fortress, on which a number of hirts have been erected for stores, && . . . In front of us, beyond the vaUey of Woro Haimanot, we had the entire fortress of Magdala, commanded by the guns of Tanta. It ascends precipitously from the vaUey, and a* narrow rocky ridge connects it LINE OF ADVANCE OP EXPEDITION. 251 towards the south-west with the plateau of Tanta. This ridge bounds the Woro Haimanot valley on the south, and the main road between the principal Amba of Magdala and Tanta leads along it. Towards the north we saw the Amba Knahit, beyond the BesMlo . . , Tanta is a plateau, which rises in several terraces. The few accessible spots are defended by masonry walls, with the exception of two, and these also can be rendered inaccessible in a short time. It forms part of the fortress of Magdala, and being several hundred feet higher, it com mands it. On the south it is connected with a large plateau, extending south and south-west, and -a -broad ditch separates this plateau from Tanta. This ditch is generaUy .filled with earth, but in time of danger it is cleared out. At this spot the plateau is hardly 200^ paces wide. Short grass covers the plateau, and there are some shrubs on the hills rising on its edges. . . . The rocky precipices consist of phonolite and trachyte ; there are veins of pitch stones — sometimes taken to be mineral coal. A large church has been excavated in the rocks of one of the kills. In its subterranean passages there were kept, at the time of our stay, about 100 cows. The *magazines stand on the western edge of the plateau, opposite Magdala. They contained about 6,000 ardeb of corn, furnished in the course of this year by the tributary GaUas . . . East of Tanta the deep Ambela Sieda valley, with a broad, dry river bed, extends north to the BeshUo . ,. . The weather, on the whole, was favourable. We only had a few thunder-storms, with heavy showers of rain and had. Every morning we had heavy dew. LINE OF ADVANCE OF EXPEDITION. The operations of the reconnoitring party, under Colonel Mere wether, are given in the following- extracts from his letter of the 12th November, 1867, from which it appears that Ansley Bay has been chosen as the landing place for the Expedition, and that the probable line of advance will be by Sanafe, and perhaps, also, by the Haddas to Tohonda, or Tekonda : — "We have just returned from a most interesting and important re- connaisance up the- pass from Koomoglee* to within five miles by road from Senafee, a distance of 41 miles. There were some very bad places in one part ; but the road has been made now by the sappers easy for passage of cavalry, infantry, mules, and camels ; and it will, I think, prove the chief fine of route, as leading at once to a good position on the highlands of Abyssinia in the direction we have to go, and to a spot within easy reach. " To-morrow we start up the Haddes to examine that, to as near as we can get to Tekonda, without actuaUy entering it, or com promising the inhabitants by opening communications with them. " Sir Robert Napier's excellent proclamation was sent out on the 6th inst., and I hope for the best results from it. Directly the ruler of Tigre, now Prince Kassai, a rebel against Theodorus, shows he in-' tends acting in a friendly manner towards us, there wiU be no im propriety in visiting both Tekonda aud Senafee ; but until he does it would not be just to the people of those places to make them run •¦* ;Eviden% the^J^ee macka! Kiunoyli on ump. * 252 LINE OF ADVANCE OF EXPEDITION. the risk of encountering his displeasure before we were in a position to protect them. " I Have been very vexed not to find a suitable plateau short of the Abyssinian highlands, but I was misled by the richness of the Agametta plateau, west of Massowah, and have only now learnt, what no one seemed to have been able to tell me before, that as you go south of the latitude of Massowah the lower hUls become more purely volcanic ; indeed, in some places entirely, so that vegetation diminishes pari passu. " The troops that have landed are, I am happy to say, in exceUent health and spirits. The 3rd Light Cavalry had been losing horses from fever, but to-day on my arrival here I was glad to find the disease disappearing. It was clearly owing to the effects of the sea voyage from India, and being cooped up on board ship." f BISTBD BI HUBISON AND SONS, »X. MABTIJr'S LAM.