Old Tuoson. . . Estelle M.Buehman Tuoson, Arizona, 1911 r ' *."¦ SML F819 •T9 [\ B9 1911 (LC) | ^¦/jpi-e theft Books j" fpK the founding ef UrCoIltgt in, t/iif- Colony^ - JLHIBISAIKF • 1911 YALE l!NWER$» JUN28 191J, -¦' LIBRARY. S£j$5. ^H*****^ fefrll* JL Swrfittrcti (SHh uturann A f|op, Skip ana Jump Sjistorn, iflram 1539 ^noian Settlement la New anil (greater (UurHun Sit gatdle TO. %ttehman BnrBott. Arizona Halt (Ennanltimirti ipubliBljimi ffin. 1311 Copyrighted 1911 By Estelle M. Buehman Ca^l5.7(o5 Seairattan an all mljn l)aur burnt a pari in the olb uajin or lb' "clu — in lift up-building, aouanrrmral or brauliftralum of lb' ©lb Jhirblo. or lhc nnu auo yrratrr Siiramt, lljin little booklet ta ainrrrrljj bruiratro bg tbe Anlbor. Preface In the preparation of this little history of the Old Pueblo, I have drawn material from Major S. R. De Long's History of Arizona, Hamilton's Resources of Arizona, Bishop Salpointe's Soldiers of the Cross, and trespassed on Mr. Herbert Brown's knowl edge of early events; particularly for descrip tion of the building of the walled town and fort, in presidio times. Of course no one can make up history and I have gleaned from old newspaper articles, cut out and preserved for many years — and here and there whatever I could find. Have had a great deal of trouble with the dates, as much trouble with the dates as with the Indians, for every author has his own; however, have sent all the dates to the reservations with the In dians — and if any reader of this book becomes dis satisfied with the dates given, he may call up the reservations and obtain any date he wishes, for they are all there. Photo by Buehman in 1874 MISSION ESCALA PURA, ON THE SANTA CRUZ RIVER OLD TUCSON CHAPTER I. EARLY DISCOVERIES — ANTE-COLONIAL TIMES. FOUNDING OF MISSIONS. WERE one, on the Eastern campus of our vast domain, to rise in an airship, far above the lower air currents, and speed ing his way on favoring breeze, far to the westward, seeing, where the trail of the pioneer had already grown obscure, the mystic land of our present civilization, he would behold Tucson, a pearl set in a land of blazing sands, of fertile valleys, and lode- rich mountain treasures, surpassing the wealth of Croesus, a land where religious warfare, educational development, and Christian training, against savag ery and cupidity, had brought to view glittering spires, pointing the way to higher living among the influences of schools, universities and churches. Tucson, the oldest and largest town of Arizona, on the main line of the Southern Pacific Railroad — 312 miles west of El Paso, and 500 miles east of Los Angeles, has an elevation of 2,400 feet above sea level, and its dry, healthful situation, with a cli mate unequalled in any section of the country, renders it an enjoyable and famous winter resort; while the mountains surrounding the city, notably, Mt. Lemon, 9,150 feet high, in the Santa Catalina range; Old Baldy, 9,432 feet, in the Santa Ritas; and Mt. Mica, 8,590 feet, in the Rincons, are equally unsurpassed as a summer retreat. In all of these S ODD TUCSON mountains, within a radius of thirty miles from Tucson, blankets are a necessity at night, even in the very hottest of weather. That our present modern city, under various appellations of Tuquelson, Tuqueston and Tucson (sometimes spelled Tuczon, Tuigson or Tuyson) was for many centuries an old Indian village there can be no doubt, for more than a quarter of a century before the Spaniards founded San Augustine, Alvar Nunez, with two other Span iards, and a negro, Estevan or Estevancio, had in the course of their wanderings set foot on Arizona soil, and finally landing at Culiacan, in Sinaloa, Mexico, so wrought upon the ambitions of the peo ple, concerning the seven cities of Cibola (Moqui and Zuni villages) both for material gain, and the conversion of the natives, that an adventurous pio neer, Padre Marcos de Niza, determined to satisfy himself as to their truth or falsity — so early in 1539 the good Father, with a few followers, and guided by Estevan, the Arabian negro who later came to grief, set out in search of the seven cities. They passed through the country of the Pimas, down the valley of the Santa Cruz, by the present site of Tucson, thence across to the Pima settlements on the Gila. Tucson is a Pima word, and they pronounced it "Chook Son," and its meaning is said to be "Black Creek." Diverging a moment from the direct history of the town, to see the end of this expedition, we find that at the Pima settlements the party being furnished with guides and provisions, pushed on to the North and East, until they came in sight of the first of the seven cities. Father de Niza sent forward Estevancio to notify the chief of their arrival, and peaceful mis- OLD TUCSON 9 sion, but the hardy negro, falling into the illwill of the Moqui Indians, who — claiming that he bewitched their women — clubbed him to death, and the pious Father, hearing of his guide's sudden demise, con cluded that the heathen of that section were not in a suitable frame of mind to receive Christian preach ing, so set up the cross, naming the country the new kingdom of San Francisco, and returned to Culiacan. This Padre Niza was a Franciscan who, aside from the reason already mentioned in accompanying the ex pedition, came also for the purpose of Christianizing the natives, and recording the progress and exploits of the journey. If his account is true, it is more than likely that a mission was even then founded at Tucson, for in April of the following year, 1540, when Coronado marched out of Culiacan, with nearly one thousand men, most of them Indians — by the same route as that taken by Alvar Nunez and his com panions — he found at Tucson an Indian Rancherio (settlement). This statement corresponds with the account I saw elsewhere that a charter had been is sued by the Spanish sovereign in 1552, for the Pueblo of Tucson, but the document was mislaid for a matter of three hundred years, or more, and then discovered in the archives of the present Church of San Xavier, which was erected on the site of an older structure. However, this account may be mythical in character, though said to be in the handwriting of the old Padre Marcos de Niza; but while ques tions of location and settlement may be more arch aeological than practical in interest, yet when we, on, or near the Pacific coast, hear about the Dutch settlers of New York, the Pilgrim Fathers of New England, the F. F. V.'s of Virginia, and the Hugue- SAN XAVIER MISSION Photo by Buehman OLD TUCSON 11 nots of Georgia, Louisiana and the Carolinas, we may be pardoned if we tell them that they were a generation too late to be accounted true pioneers, and that Arizona is entitled to the honor of being the earliest European settlement in what is now the United States of America. Referring to Hamilton's Resources of Arizona we find the next exploration of the territory was In 1582, and though no special mention is made of Tucson, yet being so important a town on the high way from Sonora to the Pima settlements, we know that the little village enjoyed its full share of growth and prosperity. This expedition was by Antonio de Espejo, who gave the first authentic ac count of the discovery of precious metals in Arizona, and was considered the pioneer prospector. But as these various expeditions were for the purpose — mainly — of acquiring sudden wealth, like the con querors of Mexico and Peru, no effort was made for another century to establish permanent settlements in what was then called Arizuma. In 1686 the Jesuit missionary, Francisco Kino, joined by the Padre Salvatierra, journeyed north from the city of Mexico, and in 1687, founded the mission of Guevavi, thirty miles south of Tucson, and that of San Xavier del Bac (of the water) about the same time, at a point nine miles south of Tucson. The first mission building was a very unpretentious structure. In 1720, thirty-three years after the founding of these missions, there were no less than eight of them, all in a flourishing condition, within the pres ent limits of the territory. Their names, respectively, were: Guevavi, San Xavier del Bac, San Jose de 12 OLD TUCSON Tumacacori (which has been reserved by the U. S. as a national monument), Santa Gertrudis de Tubac, San Miguel de Sonoita, Calabasas, Arivaca and Santa Ana. The converts of these missions, almost entirely from the Pima tribes, took the name of Papago, which means baptized. They were a noble monument to the faithful labors of Fray Kino and his associates. This good father was a native of the Tyrol, and resign ed the professorship of mathematics in the University Ingolstadt to do this unselfish work among the heathen. These earnest efforts brought forth good fruit in the peaceful and industrious colonies that grew up around them. They were taught farming, and large bodies of land were brought under culti vation. Sheep and cattle were introduced, comfort able houses were erected, and order and industry took the place of savagery and sloth. They were self sustaining, and doing good work, not only in teaching the truths of the Catholic religion, but in developing the material resources of the country. During the regime of the missionary fathers, flour ishing haciendos (ranches) at San Pedro, Barbaco- mari, Arivapa and Calabasas were established, many prospecting and exploring parties penetrated South ern Arizona, and rich mines were opened and worked. Some of the silver ores were reduced on the ground by simple adobe furnaces, while the richest were transported to Sonora and Sinaloa, Mexico. Most of the gold and silver ornaments of the mission churches came from these mines, and at Guevavi the remains of sixteen arrastras (grinding machines) could be seen and counted only a few years ago. CHAPTER II. THE APACHES — INSURRECTION OF THE PIMAS. DECLINE OE THE MISSIONS — ERECTION OF THE PRESIDIOS — EXPULSION OF THE JESUITS. ARRIVAL OF THE FRANCISCANS — ABANDON MENT OF THE MISSIONS — PRESIDIO TIMES. BUT the one great drawback to civilization and progress in Arizona was the Apache Indian. He was the omnipresent evil, and like some people who are never so happy as when they are miserable, so, the dreaded Apaches were always at war — even in times of expected peace — stealthy, treacherous, greedy, too lazy to earn a livelihood except by thievery, they were a constant menace to civilization from any source — toward any direction. They could tell you in a trice if any injustice were attempted toward them, but utterly callous, blood-thirsty and cruel. You would think, if there were not so many of them, that his Satanic majesty had taken possession of them, and there was plenty of him to go around. It was mostly their constant attacks upon the Pima tribes of Arizona that in 1751, about sixty years after the founding of the prosperous missions, drove the naturally resentful Pimas to revolt, for they knew no release from the harassments of the merciless foe, and driven to madness, they rebelled; many of the priests were killed, and several of the missions were destroyed. After this insurrection the vice-regal government erected the presidios of Tucson and Tubac, and Photo by Buehman in 1874 EAST CONGRESS ST. IN 1S74, WHERE NOW THE OPERA HOUSE, IVANCOVICH, FRED FLEISHMAN, KITT AND OTHER PROMINENT BUSINESS HOUSES ARE LOCATED OLD TUCSON 15 maintained therein small garrisons for the protec tion of the missions. In 1765 a royal decree from Madrid ordered the expulsion of the Jesuits from Spain and her colo nies, but as the order was not carried into immedi ate effect, it was 1767 before they left this country. The results of this expulsion, however, were so severe that the Arizona missions never recovered from the blow, though in the following year, 1768, fourteen Franciscan friars arrived in Tucson from Mexico, to take the places of the banished Jesuits. Yet a steady decline of the missions followed and in 1828, by order of the Mexican government, the missions were entirely abandoned; the colonies were despoiled by the savages, and the few escap ing the barbarians, took refuge in the presidios. By the close of the Mexican War, 1847, these terrible Apaches had driven from what was then called Pimeria Alta, almost every vestige of civilization, and years of precarious living for the presidios of Tucson and Tubac followed. A temporary chapel in the presidio, in the early days, was dedicated to the use of the military and its few other occupants. The town was walled for many years, probably not less than one hundred and fifty, and was built in the form of a square, the wall rising about five feet above the flat roofs of the houses, affording fine breastworks for the defense of the Pueblo; the rear end of the houses was built into, and against the heavy wall surrounding the little settlement. The only door allowed was the one opening into the open square in front. The flat roofs, in the summer time, furnished fine family sleeping rooms. 16 OLD TUCSON The little fort was also built in the form of a square, with a tower at each corner, fitted with loop holes or small windows for outlooks, and for firing on the raiding Indians. The old records say that several times the wild Apaches made well organized and desperate attempts to capture Tucson, under their bravest and ablest leaders, and over one thous and warriors strong, but they were always repulsed, Tucson, being the most northerly of the Spanish set tlements, was a constant check upon those cruel Indian raids, which often penetrated even northern Old Mexico. One authority claims that in 1800 Tucson was garrisoned by about one hundred regular Spanish soldiers, and consisted of one hundred and fifty adobe houses, with a population of three hundred and fifty, nearly all of whom must have been Mexicans and Indians. During the Mexican war, or near its close, a small force of Texan soldiers captured the little town of Tucson, but being pressed for time did not take the fort. The Mexican commander, when making his official report to his government, congratulated himself upon his victory. CHAPTER III. TREATIES — CONCESSIONS — AMERICAN OCCUPA TION — EARLY LANDMARKS. IT MAY be asked what has such a chapter heading to do with Old Tucson, and I answer "much every way," for as the life history of some great man whose individuality and public spirit have permeated all progressive movements in the country or town where he lives, so Tucson, being the oldest, largest and most important point in Arizona, every thing pertaining to territorial affairs was transacted by residents, or men coming to, or going from this place as a center of attraction and effort. In 1847, by treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, all that territory north of the Gila river, now included in Arizona, was ceded to the United States, while in the years 1853-1854, under the early administration of President Franklin Pierce, who desired a further concession from Mexico, sent the Hon. James Gads den as minister to that country for this purpose. His object was to secure a railroad route to the Pacific ocean, acquire the ownership of Guaymas, and the control of the Gulf of California. There were three different propositions submitted, the first of which, being the most southern, and granting larger territory, would seem, in looking back now at the transaction to have been most desirable and valuable to the United States. This concession, commencing at latitude 30°, center of the Rio Grande, running directly west to Gulf of California, and in cluding one-third of the Mexican states of Chihuahua and Sonora and the entire peninsula of Lower Cali fornia, north, to line indicated, for $25,000,000. The 18 OLD TUCSON second embraced about the same territory as the one finally adopted, but with the additional advant age of a seaport at the head of the Gulf of Califor nia for $15,000,000. But even the last and third pro position, called the Skeleton Treaty, caused a great deal of friction in the United States Senate at $10,000,000, for when urged by some of the broader minded members the advisability of a port of entry on the Gulf for the United States, it was answered that "a port at Yuma, on the Colorado river, would be all sufficient." A big bluff! However, the real trouble, back of a seeming penu- riousness, was the growing spirit of unrest because the subject of slavery was even then looming upon the political horizon, and it was feared that South ern extension would intensify the brewing trouble, when if it could have been seen that the stupendous problem of slavery would settle itself in the end, regardless of extension in any direction, it is likely that our boundary line on the south would have been quite different from what it is at the present time. Be that as it may, the transaction brought upon Mr. Gadsden much ridicule for the purchase of that "worthless desert" as it was termed, unknow ing of its rich mineral deposits, agricultural and grazing possibilities. It resembled the later pur chase of Alaska for the United States, by Wm. H. Seward, for $7,000,000, for that piece of "frozen land," regardless of the fact that the seal fisheries alone were well worth the cost of purchase, aside from its vast wealth of mineral resources as subse quently developed. There is a trait or principle in human nature that seems to make true those lines, OLD TUCSON 19 "All great men have been sneered at, jeered at, Before their deeds were cheered at." Subsequent to the ratification of the Gadsden Purchase, the territory was attached to the county of Donna Ana, New Mexico. The Americans who were in Tucson at that time, and aided in its acquisition, came under employ ment of Governor Manuel Gandara, of Sonora, Mexico, and were engaged in ranching, stock raising and in building houses for the Mexicans, who were manufacturing blankets by hand. Those pioneers were John W. Davis, John Clark, Dr. Colton and a few others. The general immigration of Americans began in 1856, and that year the population of Tucson was about four hundred, some thirty of whom were Americans, while in 1859 Bishop Salpointe reported six hundred, an increase of two hundred in three years, in spite of the Apaches, but the country at large was now waking up to the importance of Arizona. In 1855 American troops had taken possession of Tucson and Tubac. The Mexican colors had been lowered, and the stars and stripes unfurled to the Arizona breeze. Besides the few Americans noted, others whose names are just as familiar were conspicuous in early times. Chas. D. Poston, whom many of us remember in later years, was one of the first arrivals in 1856. He came for the purpose of opening up and operating rich silver mines. Hon. G. H. Oury; Hon. Win. S. Oury; Hon. Estevan Ochoa, from whom we have Ochoa street named ; the Pennington family, from whom also we have Pennington street named; 20 OLD TUCSON Gen'l Stone, who immortalized his name in Stone avenue; Dr. C. H. Lord and W. W. Williams, the latter two of whom engaged in the first banking business in Tucson;- Peter R. Brady, associated in later years in the Pima County Bank with the Jacobs Brothers; Wm. Kirtland, who first raised the American flag in Tucson; Hon. Hiram Stevens, who was sent to congress in 1875, and served two terms; Samuel Hughes; Sylvester Mowry, who owned and worked for many years the Mowry mine, still in operation; John G. Capron, who with twenty-five other citizens left Tucson on what proved to be a filibustering trip to the relief of Ex-Governor Crabbe, at the time of the Crabbe massacre in Old Mexico, and interestingly but pathetically remarks that, being only a sergeant at that time he "had all the hard work to do"; Solomon Warner, of whom we will speak later; General Wadsworth; Col. Ed. Cross, editor and duellist; and C. H. Meyer, from whom we have Meyer street named. Men — brave, daring and courageous — many who in different ways distinguish ed themselves, in the civil war, in public life, or as wealthy and honored citizens. Many lost their lives in brave and desperate encounters with the Indians, for life in Tucson in those days was no sinecure. There were often captives to be rescued, homes and lives of the owners, or those of their neighbors, to be defended; lasting friendships were formed, and what belonged of helpfulness to one, his neighbor could count on as his also. The record of those perilous days cannot be written. In the days of toil and nights of anxiety no one thought of keeping historical records, and they are lost in the oblivion and mystery that surrounded life in this frontierland, OLD TUCSON 21 but we know enough to believe that the bravery and hardships of those early settlers would equal the heroism of any age in the world's history. Not only from Tucson, but from one end of the territory to the other, their only epitaph the eloquence of bleaching bones and ruined homes. In March of 1856 Solomon Warner opened the first store in Tucson. He brought in thirteen pack mules from California, laden with merchandise for this purpose, and for many years much of the necessary supplies for Tucson were brought in that way from Guaymas and Hermosillo under the protection of troops. These pack mules were commonly called burros, and must have been a left-over legacy from the extinct civilization of bygone ages, since I've never heard of their introduction to Arizona. They seem to have been a native production, and like Topsy, to have just "growed." The burro is never too early nor too late in the world's history to be both useful and interesting, and is so unique in ap pearance, behavior and characteristics, that he de serves a chapter by himself, but content myself with the insertion of the following sympathetic descrip tion which I found somewhere: "Burro is the Spanish name for the animal known in English as the ass. The term itself (burro) is a corruption from our word borrow. The people were exceedingly poor (although pious), and the only luxury they could indulge in to any extent was bor rowing. But the people had in fact nothing but asses and rosaries, and as they must borrow, the former being constantly in demand became such common objects of borrowing, that the beast finally FREIGHTING STEAMERS AT SILVER KING MINE Photo by Buehman OLD TUCSON 23 took the name of the custom, and fell heir to its present perverted name of burro. "We could wish that a more expressive and correct term than either burro or ass had been applied to the animal. As they perambulate our streets daily and hourly, loaded to the muzzle with their burdens of wood or small boys, with their ears erect and their countenances suffused with a perfect glow of deep study and concentrated inquiry into the nature and origin of this world, we have sometimes thought they deserved a better name. We look among all the beasts here and we think we find none so useful and worthy of commendation as the burro. He is so adapted to the wants of the poor. His original price is small and he costs nothing to keep. Pastures which from its barrenness, would give a sound horse the staggers, and cure a mule of kicking, will produce contentment in the bosom of the burro, and he will grow fat on cold adobe walls, made with straw. "But the most pleasing feature of this docile crea ture is his humility, his meekness and his submis- siveness. Whether he gets these qualities from the ancestor who bore his Godlike burden over the spread garments and palm branches into the high- gates of old Jerusalem, we know not. It may be. And the glorious fact may have tinged with blissful contentment the blood of all his race, even unto this day. It is sometimes said he is stubborn, but if those who say this could know, as the burro knows, the everlasting height, and depth and length and breadth of the consummate meanness of the human race, they might also, after a few centuries of en- ¦ ....¦¦ ; ¦ i -1 * feSsaE-iA SS^?f^ ' __*| *- - ¦ --« • *~'.41. -,.. . "^ _"". £ -.-' -" * ~_„ "*¦; TIME HONORED TRANSPORTATION FACILITIES Photo by Buehman OLD TUCSON 25 durance, exhibit something resembling stubbornness or slight uncertainty in their actions. "Besides his cheapness and small attendant ex pense, the burro more nearly meets the demands of the poor than any other animal. He bears his burden on his back. He needs no gaudy attachment of chariot, or harness or stable. He rarely strays. He supplies the poor man's fire. He furnishes his frugal living. After warming and feeding his task-master he completes his usefulness by singing that master and his household to sleep. How he will sing! Verily he lifts up his voice and howls. One burro can rend the air and make the welkin ring. There is only one thing which the burro cannot do. He can not stop braying after he has once commenced until he has finished the tune. He is all right as long as he totally abstains from braying, and has the most perfect control of all his faculties. But let him once cross the Rubicon of his bray, and nothing short of instant death can help him until he has finished. We have seen a burro with tears in his eyes, and his whole form convulsed with a futile endeavor to cut a bray off just one or two notes short. It was use less. He can do most anything else. He can wag one ear at a time. He can wag both ears at once. He can wag his tail and one ear at a time. He can wag his tail and both ears in unison. He can wag his tail and not wag either ear. But what satisfac tion is there in all these graceful accomplishments when he can't manage his bray. He is so ashamed of his weakness that he sometimes gets desperate, and so you will frequently see him braying and run ning at the same time. This is caused by a foolish 26 OLD TUCSON idea on his part that he may possibly run the end of the bray down. "But all in all, the gentle burro has not his equal among the beasts of the field. His lot is humble, and yet he has borne a God upon his back. His task is lowly and still so well performed that if we can all make the same showing at the going down of our sun, it shall be well with us, notwithstanding what may be the dictum of stoled priest or high altar, or misinterpreted Book." It was Solomon Warner also, who later built and owned the flour mill, the ruins of which are still to be seen on the west bank of the Santa Cruz river, and in .fact, the village at that time was located in what is now the southwestern part of the city — as from time immemorial "Old Tucson." One authority claims that it was situated a half mile further up the river, while another locates it a mile further up, but the old mill is a pretty fair landmark, as well as the old mission Escala Pura, in the valley also, on the west bank of the river. The presidio, or fort, was in the vicinity of Levin's park, west of the old Zeckendorf store. CHAPTER IV. EFFORTS AT TERRITORIAL ORGANIZATION — SE CESSION — CIVIL WAR — INDIANS — MAIL FA CILITIES. FROM the time of American occupation of Tucson and the territory in 1855, to 1887, was a period of trial, anxiety, expectation, bloodshed and transition, and the part that our town and territory took at this stage of affairs becomes very interesting. Two problems of exceptional interest and import ance, whose results were outreaching and lasting, occupied the thoughts and attention of the people of those early times, and they were almost simul taneous in their demand for wise and prompt action. Whether the course they took in relation to the second problem, that of the civil war, was advisable, may be more accurately determined in the light of subsequent events than at that early day, but that the effort to secure territorial organization was both wise and important can not be questioned. Friends of the territory in the United States Senate and the House of Representatives made efforts to attain this benefit, yet were unsuccessful. Also within the ter ritory — at Tucson, as early as 1856 — a mass meeting had been called, and Mr. Nathan P. Cook chosen to represent Arizona at Washington, in an effort to secure recognition as a distinct territory, but his credentials being unauthorized by a formally organ ized territory, he could not be admitted to congress. It was like telling a boy to stay away from the water till he had learned how to swim. However, 28 OLD TUCSON his errand was considered in the House of Repre sentatives in 1857, and referred to the Territorial Committee, who reported adversely because of "that sparsely settled section," yet acknowledging the un fortunate conditions of a people with no recognized government, recommended the passing of a bill to form a judicial district south of the Gila river, appoint a surveyor general, and to provide for rep resentation of Arizona at Santa Fe, New Mexico, to gether with other measures. Such a bill was passed in the Senate, but did not reach the House before final adjournment. In the same year President Buchanan recommended in his message a territorial government for Arizona, and Senator Gwin intro duced a bill to organize such a government for the Gadsden Purchase under the name of Arizona. Vari ous petitions from various people and states were also sent to Congress. Being attached to New Mexico, any violators of the law in Arizona had to be taken to Mesilla, the county seat of Donna Ana for trial, and Arizonans in general, and Tucsonans in par ticular, craved a home government, though there being in those days no edict against carrying con cealed weapons every man armed himself to the teeth against surprise of any kind, and did as he pleased. In an election, held in Tucson, September, 1857, the citizens prepared a new petition, choosing Syl vester Mowry as delegate to Congress. Mr. Mowry was not admitted; neither did the bill of Senator Gwin find favor in the halls of Congress. Again in 1858-1859 Mr. Mowry was sent to Washington. It has been said that Mr. Mowry "invented Arizona," and Congress was memorialized in another effort, but OLD TUCSON 29 no territorial organization resulted. In 1858 the leg islature of New Mexico also passed resolutions in favor of giving Arizona a separate organization, but as though blood-drenched Arizona didn't have Indian troubles enough of her own, they wished to remove all of the New Mexican Indians to Northern Arizona. Determined to have some form of home government, the leading citizens of Tucson held in 1860 a so-called constitutional convention, composed of thirty-one delegates from the entire district, which at that time included the Rio Grande country. They organized a provisional government to remain in effect until Con gress should give them a territorial government, but no longer. General Wadsworth was president of that convention, which chose L. A. Owens (now of Texas) as provisional governor, who was to appoint subordi nate officers. A legislature, consisting of nine sena tors and eighteen representatives, was to be elected and convened upon proclamation of the governor, who appointed Ignacio Orrantia for Lieutenant Governor; James A. Lucas, Secretary of State; Mark Aldrich, Treasurer; Samuel G. Bean, Marshal; District Judges, Granville H. Oury (Chief Justice), Samuel H. Cozzens and Edward McGowan (Associate Jus tices); Major General, W. C. Wadsworth, who com manded the militia, and upon his staff were Col. W. S. Oury, of Tucson, and John G. Capron. In this year Mr. Mowry got out a map, dividing the terri tory into four counties, as follows: On the west, what is now Yuma, he named Castle Dome. Our county of Pima he extended eastward to Apache Pass and called it Ewell. Mesilla county eastward to the Rio Grande, and Donna Ana county eastward from the Rio Grande to line of Texas. The remain- APACHE HOME Photo by Buehman OLD TUCSON 31 der of what is now Arizona, being inhabited by wild Indians, probably the Navajoes, was left to New Mexico — nobody wanted the Indians. Mr. Mowry was again sent to Washington, but as before his errand proved unsuccessful. It was claim ed, and probably with justice, that the reason all these efforts in behalf of territorial organization were un successful, was because of the approaching civil war, and the extraordinary events then taking place in Washington. The opening of this most lamented war had caused the entire withdrawal of the Federal troops from Arizona, and though both Confederate and Union forces alternately occupied it, yet they seemed like passing waves of the sea, for their absence again placed the Apache Indian to the front, and in their ignorance, thinking that the soldiers were1 ^withdrawn out of fear of them, they took every advantage of this exposed condition, and advanced to the very out skirts of the village, as close as the present site of the Palace Hotel on Meyer Street, and everywhere they carried death and destruction with them. These conditions lasted for about a year, when in February, 1862, a company of Confederates (a por tion of Colonel Bailey's command from Mesilla, on the Rio Grande,) arrived in Tucson, under Captain Hunter, and took possession of the territory in the name of the Confederate States. The majority of the white population were in sympathy with his cause,, and perhaps for this reason the Federal troops had been withdrawn. Anyway some time before his arrival the citizens of Tucson held a meeting (those of Union sentiments, probably as a matter of discre tion, observing silence) and with all the solemnity 32 OLD TUCSON which the occasion demanded, passed an ordinance, proclaiming the secession of Arizona from the Union. Hunter held possession until May, when the ad vance of the California column, under General Carle- ton, changed the order of things in a very short time. Hunter, claiming that he did not possess suf ficient force to meet General Carleton in battle, withdrew into New Mexico, though one account says that Hunter sent out a small detachment as far as Mount Pecacho, forty miles west of Tucson, and that there was a skirmish of some kind, resulting in the killing of one commissioned officer and several men from the California column, though of course the victory was for the Union arms. Major S. R. DeLong, Colonel James H. Toole and Captain G. C. Smith, for many years leading citizens of Tucson, were officers in this famous California column, and it is from Major De Long that we gather these facts. Colonel Toole, whose family we all knew, built and owned the large square house on the corner of Stone Avenue and East Ochoa Street. Capt. G. C. Smith was later stationed at Fort Lowell. On June 8th of this year General Carleton, in Tucson, by general orders, placed the whole territory, since they had seceded, under martial law, until such time as a civil government should be organized under the jurisdiction of the United States. Probably for the few inhabitants then in Arizona, a military gov ernment being more direct in its methods, was for the time being, the best, yet the General was very sensitive to criticism, and it was impossible but that he should be criticised for this coercive measure, however well meant, and we shall see later, when the territorial government came from the east — not OLD TUCSON 33 on a water wagon, nor yet on the band wagon, but in a wagon train — that this criticism cost Tucson the capital. In 1857 a line of stages operating between San An tonio, Texas, and San Diego, California, made bi monthly trips, stopping at Tucson, and the Pima villages, as they passed back and forth. In 1858 this line was merged into the Overland Mail Company, which operated between St. Louis, Missouri, and San Francisco, making bi-weekly trips, and carrying United States mail. These facilities were a great help to Tucson, for it became a flourishing trading post for many, and some extensive mining concerns, thus connecting Tucson with the commercial centers both east and west; but with the breaking out of the civil war the property of the line was confiscated by some of the states through which the line ran and unfortunate Tucson, being isolated, was without mail facilities for several years. The first public mail that reached the town after the war, came on horse back from California, September 1st, 1865, and the first through mail from Eastern States, Barlow, Sanderson & Co., reached Tucson, August 25th, 1866. CHAPTER V. TERRITORIAL GOVERNMENT LOCATION OF CAPI TAL — FIRST PRINTING PRESS — EARLY MINES. MORE INDIANS, AND THEIR FINISH. FINALLY in 1863, President Lincoln signed the bill giving Arizona a separate and distinct ter ritorial government. Hon. John Gurly was the first appointed governor, but as he died in New York City before the other officials were ready to leave the east for their western post of duty, the Hon. John Goodwin was appointed to the vacancy. Rich ard C. McCormick, appointed first territorial secre tary, become our second acting governor. In the distribution of official trusts, Hon. Charles D. Poston, though he had been a good friend of the territory, and a pioneer miner since 1856, was left out, and when he made complaint of the omission he was told that he might be superintendent of In dian affairs — certainly an unenviable position, but then it was an office. In December of this year the official staff reached Navajo Springs, under escort of troops sent out by General Carleton. Whether he accompanied the troops or not in person, he was responsible for the location of the capital in Northern Arizona, for though as yet the valuable, undiscovered mining properties in that section had not created a town, yet General Carleton thought it no harm to the territory to have two thrifty growing centers of trade instead of one, and the formal organization of the territory took place at Navajo Springs, forty OLD TUCSON 35 miles northwest of the famous Zuni pueblo. Upon the raising of the flag, Secretary McCormick an nounced the sovereignty of the United States, and made an appropriate speech. It seems peculiar that Governor Goodwin is not mentioned as taking any part in this observance. The party soon moved westward as far as Fort Whipple, where General Carleton had erected bar racks for the protection of miners and stockmen, and while the official staff remained at the barracks, Fort Whipple was the seat of government. Again moving westward, but determined to humiliate Tuc son for her criticisms of his proclamation of martial law, General Carleton, though knowing that Tucson was the intended capital, halted at the present site of Prescott, and there the capital permanently re mained for a number of years. In 1868 however Tucson came into her own, the capital being moved here, where it remained for nine years, then was transferred again to Prescott, and later still, as being more central, to Phoenix. Just at the time that negotiations were pending concerning the Gadsden Purchase, and prior to its transfer to the United States, Major Emery, of the United States Survey Service, was stationed in the immediate vicinity of Tucson, and gives the follow ing interesting description: "Tucson is inhabited by a few Mexican troops, and their families, together with some tame Indians. The town is very prettily situated in a fertile valley at the base of the Santa Catalina Mountains. Some fine fields of corn and wheat were ready for the sickle, and many varieties of fruits and vegetables were to be had. The Indians, under direction of the Mexi- BASE OF SUPPLY FOR THE HAY MARKET Photo by Buehman OLD TUCSON 37 cans, do most of the labor in the fields. While in camp we were the recipients of every attention and civility from Captain Garcia, who commanded the place. "I saw in Tucson a fine specimen of meteoric iron from the Santa Rita Mountains, which is used as a blacksmith's anvil." Later I learned that this specimen was sent to the Smithsonian Institute at Washington, where a model of it was made, and sent back to Tucson, and this model may be seen in the museum at the Terri torial University. While all these things had been going on, there was also another little wave of interest taking place, showing how even in the trails of civilization, men look to intellectual development and intelligent edu cational facilities. In 1858 John Wrightson brought the first printing press to this region, presumably Tucson, since everything else, including Indians, came to Tucson, and the Weekly Arizonan was established at Tubac, with Mr. Ed. Cross as editor. Over this press some trouble occurred, and a duel was fought between Mr. Cross and the traveled Mr. Mowry, after which it became the property of Mr. Mowry, who left it in charge of Mr. Oury at Tucson, where a Mr. Pierce, good writer, but unfortunate drunkard and borrower, got out a few copies, then left for parts unknown, and Mr. DeLong purchased the press, assuming the editorship for that year. He then put it into the hands of one Dooner, who, chang ing the politics into that of a Democratic sheet, so disgruntled the Republican supporters of the Weekly Arizonan that Major DeLong sold the press to John 38 OLD TUCSON Wasson (afterward Surveyor General) who in 1870 founded the Citizen. In 1875 R. C. Brown be came a partner. In 1878 John Clum bought and moved it to Florence, but in 1879 the Citizen again appeared in Tucson, when R. C. Brown became its proprietor and was for many years identified with its interests. This press is now in Tombstone, and was, until recently, used in printing "The Nugget" of that city. We would recommend that it be sent to the Smith sonian Institute, along with the old meteoric anvil, a model of it returned to the Territorial University Museum, or turned over to the Pioneer Historical Society in Tucson. The Arizona Daily Star was first started as the "Bulletin," March 1st, 1877, by L. C. Hughes, Esq., and Mr. Chas. Tully, then almost immediately changed to the Tri-Weekly Star. In August of the same year it was issued as a weekly, with Mr. Hughes sole pro prietor. This paper, like the Citizen, has, for the most part, issued both daily and weekly editions. In politics the Star is Democratic, yet the interests of the people, and the development of the resources of the territory, have been paramount. The various stages of successive growth of both papers is a reflex of the increasing business activity and wonder ful growth of this section of Arizona. El Fronterizo, published in Spanish, and ably edited by its proprietor, Don Carlos I. Velasco, was estab lished in September, 1878. The Daily Journal, independent in politics, and the Weekly Mining Journal, devoted to mining interests, were both issued from the office of their founder, E. P. Thompson,' Esq., in June, 1881. Photo by Buehman FIRST OUTPUT OF BULLION, VALUED AT $50,000.00, FROM THE CONSOLIDATED TOMBSTONE MINES 40 OLD TUCSON Evidently Tucson has no reason to be ashamed of her press advantages and privileges. Soon after the Gadsden Purchase was effected, the Cerro Colorado mine, under Col. Charles D. Poston, the Ajo, and later, the Silver King, Quijotoa, Copper Queen, Clifton, Morenci, Bradshaw, San Xavier, and other mines, were opened and worked. Companies organized in New York and Cincinnati operated extensively in these districts. The rich mines were lodestones drawing population westward to Tucson, Prescott, Globe and Tombstone. The picture here shown is that of the first ship ment of silver bullion, valued at $50,000, from what is now the Consolidated Tombstone Mine, and which was sent by stage to the Safford, Hudson & Co.'s bank on West Congress Street, Tucson. The stage, an old time Concord coach, was guarded, externally, by armed outriders, and internally, by men armed to kill any would-be robbers. It presented a comical appearance, with loaded guns sticking out on all sides, and the whole town turned out to witness its arrival with its load of princely treasure. The wealth of this mine was fabulous in early days — the product in 1882, alone, being $1,440,895. After the withdrawal of the California volunteers from Tucson in 1866, and their places filled by regu lars who didn't seem to understand ambush methods of Indian warfare, Arizona suffered many heart break ing experiences. Mistaken sympathy for "Lo, the poor Indian," among Eastern philanthropists, ex tended also into army circles, and leaders of troops were prone to go into camp as soon as they struck an Indian trail, and there remain until the scoundrels had escaped their so-called pursuers. Sometimes, OLD TUCSON 41 the citizens, driven to desperation, rose in their might and took swift and just vengeance. One notable instance of this was the Camp Grant massa cre, which came about in this way: In February, 1871, a band of Apaches, known as the Aravaipa, or Pinal Apaches, being short of rations, came into Camp Grant, on the San Pedro, and made a verbal treaty by which they were to be supplied with ra tions, and were to live in the vicinity of the camp It was then expected that depredations around Tuc son and San Pedro would cease, but instead, the In dians became worse and worse, and what looked worse than ever, the trail of the marauders when ever followed led directly to the Indian camp in the vicinity of old Camp Grant. When this was known public meetings were held in Tucson, resolutions were passed, petitions were sent to military head quarters, then in Los Angeles, setting forth the facts and asking assistance, but no action was taken Parties upon traveled roads were attacked, robbed and killed; ranchmen and stock driven from their ranches, and a man named Wooster and his wife, on the Santa Cruz, killed, as well as others, and all the trails led to this treacherous Indian camp. To settle the matter beyond doubt three Papago trailers were hired to follow these depredators, without being told what it was for. Three trails were followed, three reports made, and all agreed as to the place — to the very Indians whom the United States were supporting with rations to prey upon the struggling settlers. This was too great a wrong to be borne, and silently an expedition was organized, consisting of fifty Papa go Indians and five Americans, who went forth in just defense of their homes and lives. Arriving at 42 OLD TUCSON the Indian camp at break of day, Sunday, April 30th, 1871, they completely surprised the murderers, and made an end of the lot, about eighty-seven, and not one of the expedition was killed, or even wounded. Among their camp effects were found the murdered Mrs. Wooster's dress and Mr. Wooster's leggings, with his initials upon them — also seven horses from Tucson, or its vicinity, one a very recent theft. Of course this total extinction of a camp, though well merited and entirely justifiable, made a great commotion in the. East, and Gen. W. T. Sherman, then commanding the army, and not knowing of the con stant depredations carried on against the white set tlers, recommended that all the parties engaged in the affair should be tried for their lives. Accordingly all were arrested and tried in our territorial court in this city, for Tucson was at that time the capital. Judge Titus presided, and every man was acquitted, for no jury in Arizona at that time would convict parties for killing hostile Indians. At last the gen eral government was compelled to take notice, and Gen. George Crook was put in command, arriving in the territory in June, 1871, and came prepared to take summary action. However, through influence of eastern philanthropists, tue soothing methods went on, but the scourge becoming unbearable, General Crook took matters in his own hand, and with scouts and troops punished the rascals until they were glad to submit and humbly begged to be allowed to settle upon reservations. This was done, and peace and quiet reigned for a while, and the entire territory, with its rapidly growing towns and pros perous mines, made great advancement. Yet the spirit of unrest and desire for pillage and bloodshed OLD TUCSON 43 stirred the Indians of San Carlos reservation, and in 1885 a small band, under Geronimo, one of the cruel- est of savages, broke loose from the agency, and went on the warpath. They terrorized ranches, op erated in the vicinity of Benson and Tanque Verde, and from tracks seen they were thought to be lurk ing around Tucson. About this time when returning to the San Pedro after bringing his family to Tucson, the brother of the late W. C. Davis was shot on the new county road, just then built between Tucson and the settlement of Reddington, on the' San Pedro, from which place they had come. Then General Miles was sent to Tucson and following the depredators with scouts and trailers, he captured Geronimo and a part of the band in the Chiricahua Mountains, and the balance promised to come in, which thing for once they felt compelled to do. Geronimo and some others were sent to Fort Sill, from whence it was proclaim ed that he was sorry for his sins and was teach ing a class in Sunday school, but civilization preyed upon his health, and he petitioned the White Father at Washington — fearing he would go into a decline — to be allowed to return to San Carlos Reservation to recuperate; but at last the United States govern ment had its eyes opened, and Mr. Geronimo had to remain at Fort Sill until he died. It is to be hoped that his old spook didn't meet the shades of those he had tortured and murdered in Arizona, as the interview might have been unpleasant for parties on both sides. CHAPTER VI. IMMEDIATE TUCSON ITS MUNICIPAL GOV ERNMENT AND GROWTH — SCHOOLS AND CHURCHES. BECAUSE of its antiquity Tucson has had in earlier years many points of interest, some of which continue unto the present day. Besides the old San Xavier Mission already mentioned, there are the ruined walls on top of" Tumamoc Hill, just west of town. By whom or by what race the fortifica tions were built is not known, but the lines of defense are still plainly visible. Many large boulders with eastern face are covered with hieroglyphics of a lost race, whose meaning still remains unsolved. For many miles north of the Pueblo, in the Santa Cruz valley, lie scattered evidences of dead cities, with a mile square of buried foundations There is also the abandoned government post, old Fort Lowell, which was built and occupied by the military force whose near presence on the Military Plaza in the vil lage was not deemed of longer necessity, though for reason of liable attacks, from Indians to the number of many thousands on reservations still in the terri tory, it was not safe to dispense with their presence, within immediate call. Levin's Park is also worthy of some description, having been for many years a very popular resort in Tucson. Here the San Augustine fiestas were held, celebration of both American and Mexican indepen dence, and was the scene of many a revelry. It was the constant care and pride of Alexander Levin, who ODD TUCSON 45 set out the rows of trees, and watched their growth from slender saplings to trees of great height ana size. The entire area of the park, about seven acres, was shaded by their foliage. Benches and tables were provided for the guests, and refreshments fur nished from a restaurant on the grounds. A high fence made it safe from improper intrusion, and a gatekeeper held the premises in charge. A skating rink, shooting gallery, bowling alley and dancing pavilion were prominent attractions. Music was dis coursed every evening by a first-class string band, and concerts every Sunday afternoon were much fre quented. Its pleasant shade and cool breezes were blessings in this village on the Santa Cruz, and a visit to Tucson was not considered complete without taking in the old mission, Levin's Park and Fort Lowell, which as long as invested by the military, divided honors with the park as a resort for the social set of early timers. The first public school in Tucson was taught in the winter of 1868-1869, by Mr. Augustus Brichta, who quite recently died. He came from Prescott, where he was assistant clerk of the legislature, and in the absence of the chief clerk, says that he con vened the first assemblage of that body after its removal to Tucson. After the opening of the Legis lature he resigned his clerkship and taught school for four months in an adobe building formerly occu pied by the government, on the little street leading to Levin's Garden or Park. Mr. Brichta found it difficult to obtain suitable books, notwithstanding the Spanish-speaking boys learned rapidly to speak English, and became quite proficient in the three R's. The next public school was taught by John Spring, Photo by Buehman in 1874 LEFT HAND CORNER OLD GOVERNMENT BUILDING, WHERE LATER A. C. BRICHTA TAUGHT THE FIRST PUBLIC SCHOOL— IN THE DISTANCE LEVIN'S PARK OLD TUCSON 47 on Meyer Street, in the vicinity of the old Palace Hotel. Mr. Spring enrolled one hundred and thirty- eight boys, the majority of whom were Spanish. In 1870 St. Joseph's Convent Academy started up with the arrival in Tucson of seven sisters, and this institution, keeping pace with the general growth of the city in forty-one years, will bear favorable com parison today with any similar school on the Pacific Coast. All honor to those self-denying women, who, casting aside the pleasures of the outer world, are devoting their lives to the educational and moral ad vancement of those committed to their care. In the summer of 1872, Mrs. L. C. Hughes opened a school for girls, in a house in Levin's Park. This school was well attended and proved very beneficial. In 1873, Miss Harriet Bolton, afterward the wife of Gen. John Wasson, and Miss Maria Wakefield, who became the wife of our esteemed townsman, E. N. Fish, took charge of the school, and were excel lent teachers. In the fall of 1874, Prof. W. B. Horton, afterward Superintendent of Public Instruction, became princi pal, with two assistants, Ignacio Bonillas and Miss Packard. Later the lamented Willis B. Horton also conducted a post tradership on San Carlos Reserva tion, and was brutally shot in front of his own store by an Apache. However, swift vengeance overtook his slayer, for the Indian scouts immediately gave chase, and shot the Apache, who died about the same time as the man he murdered. Although suf fering cruelly Mr. Horton said to his associates with in call, "I can't pull through boys— until I have bid you all good-bye." 48 OLD TUCSON Mr. Horton was a personal friend of the writer's family, and their eldest son, Willis, was named for him. Remonstrating with him for accepting so dangerous a position, he answered, "That it was the safest place from Indians in the territory." Succeeding teachers in early times were Miss Nesmith and Mrs. Aquerre, whom we all knew and loved; Miss Nora Smith and Miss Sallie Wood. By 1882 there were enrolled three hundred and fifty pupils, with seven instructors, viz.: Professor Hall, Miss E. J. Monk, now Mrs. Guild, who still teaches, Mrs. Martha White, Miss L. A. Royce, Miss Lizzie Borton, Miss Sallie Wood. Instructor in music, Miss Jessie Medbury, and teacher of Spanish, Chas. H. Tully. In 1881-1882 the first kindergarten in Tucson was established by Miss Estelle Morehouse, who taught the little ones in the then unoccupied Presbyterian Church on Court Plaza, which is now the Congrega tional house of worship. Thus we see that, even in that early time — before streets were graded or lighted; when sidewalks went up hill and down, nor even thought of being curbed, but furnished sleeping quarters for the Mexican population in hot weather, pedestrians being obliged to walk out into the street to avoid walking over somebody's boy or girl; when we had to buy water by the bucketful, as we now buy milk by the pint or quart, the water being brought from springs just north of Carrillo's Gardens — there was a strong feeling in favor of educational measures. That idea seems to lie at the foundation of American life and institu tions. Educate the rising generation, then we have men of nerve, character, ability and standing to OLD TUCSON 49 handle the stirring questions of government, prob lems of ways and means, and all the perplexing and knotty questions of daily life and toil. Educate and train our girls to think high, aim at lofty ideals, and fit themselves to be good home keepers, domestic wives and helpmeets, and careful, intelligent moth ers of those intrusted to their care. It has been said, and truthfully, that the western pioneer builds, first a school house, and then a church, and our little village was no exception. St. Augustine Church, first established near the old cemetery on Alameda Street, and known as the Church of the Presidio, was afterwards relocated in a small chapel near the corner of Congress Street and Church Square. In 1866 the foundation of the structure, now known as San Augustine Hotel, was laid and completed for worship under Bishop Sal- pointe in 1869. The old Presbyterian Church, located on Meyer Street and Court Plaza, was begun in 1878 and com pleted in 1879, Messrs. Fred Austin, W. W. Williams and W. C. Davis being trustees. Rev. Mr. Anderson was the first pastor. The organization had previous ly met for worship in the City Hall. The Methodist Episcopal Church was organized in October, 1879. Rev. W. G. Mills was the first pastor, and services were held for some time in the old Court House. Their fine lot on the corner of Penn ington Street and Stone Avenue, was purchased in 1881, and church erected and dedicated the same year, with Rev. G. H. Adams, Superintendent of Methodist Missions in Arizona, for permanent pastor. Its cost was nearly $5,000, while the parsonage, now 50 OLD TUCSON removed, and lot occupied by Mr. Steinfeld, was built in 1882 at a cost of $1,800. The First Baptist Church of Tucson was organized at the residence of Mr. Ev S. Dodge, April 7th, 1881, with six members, besides the pastor, who was Rev. Uriah Gregory. Charles D. Poston and Benjamin Goodrich were members of the board of trustees. In May a lot was purchased for the church and par- isonage, consisting of one hundred feet on .Stone Avenue and sixty-six feet on 8th, now called Council Street. On May 15th, recognition services were held in the Presbyterian Church. Rev. J. W. Osborn of Nebraska preached before the council at 11 a. m., and Dr. O. C. Wheeler, Moderator, made the evening address, and three new members were added by letter. The new chapel was dedicated in January, 1882. The First Congregational Church of Tucson was formally organized on November 20th, 1881. The services of recognition, by courtesy of the M. E. Church, were held in their house of worship, under the direction of Revs' L. H. Cobb, D. D., of New York, and J. H. Warren, D. D., of San Francisco. There were nine original constituent members. The Rev. L. B. Tenny, of New Hampshire, was acting pastor for the summer of 1882, but in December of the same year, the Rev. C. B. Sumner, of Massa chusetts, became regular pastor. Arrangements were at once made, and money pledged for the pur chase of the church on Meyer Street and Court Plaza, formerly built by the Presbyterian Society, that church having dissolved its organization, though in later years it reorganized and is at the present OLD TUCSON 51 time one of tbe most prosperous churches in modern Tucson. The Congregational Church was for a number of years a Home Missionary Church, as indeed were all the others in those pioneer days — that society aiding the church to the extent of $3,000 on its purchase price of $5,000. All of Tucson's churches are, at the present time, self supporting. Grace Mission Episcopal Church was organized September 1st, 1882. Services were at first held in the Probate Court room in the new Court House. In connection with the mission there was a guild for religious and charitable purposes. Pres., Mrs. Grace Manlove; vice-pres., Mrs. Adelaide James; treasurer, Mrs. Sallie A. Buell; secretary, Rev. C. J. Hendly, B. D. In 1871 the citizens of Tucson organized a village government, with Major S. R. De Long as mayor; councilmen, Samuel Hughes, W. W. Williams and W. S. Oury; treasurer, Hon. Hiram Stevens; recorder and assessor, W. J. Osborn. During that year inquiry was made by the council relative to a congressional donation in 1864 of land for a townsite, when it was learned that though such donation had been made, yet it had lapsed through failure of Tucson to make it available. In 1872 the same gentlemen served in town offices, except that E. N. Fish was treasurer, and in this year the sum of $1,600 was paid the government for United States patent to two sections of land for the townsite of Tucson, and in August of the same year, the village authorities began to issue deeds to pur chasers of lots, and to donate land for school and church purposes. In 1873 the same gentlemen Photo by Buehman COSMOPOLITAN HOTEL IN 1874, NOW SANTA CRUZ HOTEL OLD Tt.'CSON 53 served as town officers, and in 1874 the same, except R. N. Leatherwood took the place of C. T. Etchells. In 1875 the mayor was Estevan Ochoa; councilmen, P. Drachman, C. T. Etchells, Samuel Hughes and R. N. Leatherwood; treasurer, E. N. Fish; recorder, C. H. Meyer. In this year the salary of marshal was fixed at $20, but could be increased in special seasons. Artesian wells were also projected and contract awarded, but it was found that artesian water didn't materialize so readily. Also in this year the village purchased a wagon, harness and two good mules for town use, but later sold them as being too expensive to operate. The old cemetery was abandoned this year as a place of burial, and ten lots were donated by the village for a new one, also lots for a Catholic ceme tery. Village lots were offered free to all persons im proving same to the extent of $100, and residing thereon for six months. Hospitalities of the village tendered to Gen. A. W. Kautz and staff this year. In 1876, mayor, J. B. Allen; councilmen, Samuel Hughes, R. N. Leatherwood, C. T. Etchells, P. Drach man; treasurer, E. N. Fish; recorder, C. H. Meyer. This must have been a hard year for the Old Pueblo for a petition was presented to the council asking that an election should be held to get the sense of the community as to whether the village should dis incorporate and merge again in the county organiza tion. At such election the people decided in the negative. Board of Trade (note the improvement) was permitted to erect a powder magazine at a safe distance from town. The place selected was just off what is now North Main Street, but in later years it 54 OLD TUCSON blew Itself up and nothing was ever seen of the powder magazine again except a big hole in the ground. Hospitalities of the village tendered to the Mexi can general, Mariscal, and staff. The planting of trees along the streets was officially encouraged, but nothing accomplished in that line, for though Tucson had soil and sunshine, it takes both work and water to make things grow. Gen. Phineas Banning conferred with the mayor and common council concerning the right-of-way and depot grounds for the Southern Pacific Railroad, which was in process of construction somewhere. In 1877, J. B. Allen, mayor; councilmen, R. N. Leatherwood, Samuel Hughes, Isaac E. Brokaw and A. G. Buttner; treasurer, E. N. Fish; recorder, Joseph Neugass; with a Board of Health as well as a Board of Trade. A new charter for incorporating as a city was drawn and granted by the Legislature, and with the council meeting of February 7th, 1877, Tucson ceased to be a village, and henceforth assumed the duties and responsibilities of municipal existence. At the first city election in 1878 Col. James H. Toole again became mayor; councilmen, R. N. Leatherwood, Paul Abadie, C. R. Drake and P. Drachman; treasurer, W. W. Williams; recorder and police justice, W. S. Edwards. Total debt of the city, January 8th, $1,188. Municipal election of 1879 — mayor, Jas. H. Toole; councilmen, Chas. R. Drake, Alexander Levin, R. N. Leatherwood, P. Abadie; treasurer, W. W. Williams; recorder, W. J. Osborn. On May 6th Mayor Toole tendered his resignation, which was unanimously not accepted by the council. OLD TUCSON 55 By this time railroad matters had made commend able progress, and at a special election held on June 21st, the citizens voted solidly that bonds to the amount of $10,000, should be issued by the city for the Southern Pacific depot and grounds, right-of-way, etc., and it was done as ordered. Rights and privi leges for feast of San Augustine sold by the city for $600, but thereafter were not allowed within the city limits, but annually resort to San Xavier for their festival. In 1880, a very important year for Tucson, R. N. Leatherwood, mayor; councilmen, M. G. Samaniego, C. T. Etchels, Alexander Levin and C. R. Drake; re corder, C. H. Meyer; treasurer, P. R. Tully, surveyor, G. J. Roskruge. On March 10th a celebration of the connection of the eastern and western lines of the Southern Pacific in Tucson took place with a banquet, and the grand est display the little city had ever witnessed. More than a hundred citizens acted on committees; many eloquent speeches and addresses were made, and general good feeling prevailed. Many telegrams had been sent concerning the affair, and congratulations in reply were read, one of which was of special in terest, purporting to have come from the Pope, who sent cordial congratulations, but inquired whether Tucson were not in the other world. In this year railroad bonds 1, 2, 3 and 4, amounting to $2,000, were paid up, while in 1881 the balance of the bonds, amounting to $8,000, were cancelled by the city fathers, which speaks well for the little city. At this time the city property, consisting of forty-five blocks and parcels of unsold land, was valued at $25,000, and the authorities had in contemplation the Photo by Buehman ZECKENDORF & STAAB, AND E. N. FISH'S STORES IN 1874, ON MAIN STREET OLD TUCSON 57 building of a commodious City Hall, which should house the entire municipal government. In 1884, the Arctic Ice Company, owned by ex- Surveyor General Royal A. Johnson & Co., bought out two local concerns, manufactured, and for many years supplied the city with this cooling necessity. The Territorial University, established by an Act of the Thirteenth Legislative Assembly, of 1885, at Phoenix, completed and opened for students in Octo ber, 1891, belongs rather and fully to new and greater Tucson, yet its beginnings were in a period of great transition for the Old Pueblo. The bill was intro duced into the council by Hon. C. C. Stephens, car ried through the house by the able efforts of Hon. S. M. Franklin, of our city, and approved by Gover nor F. A. Tritle, March 12th of that same year. Third Street, now the handsome boulevard, electric line and driveway to the University, was then still in the brush, and was only thought of by the inhabitants of Buell's addition, in that vicinity, as the winding trail to the gruesome graveyard, northwest of town. Students and their friends, first going out to the Uni versity, went by several cut-offs, across by the old depot, striking 9th Street at several different angles, and if by vehicle, were in danger of being found standing in the arroya, with the cart before the horse, by reason of the steep hills and deep gullies. Had automobiles been in fashion then, they would have jumped from one hill to another, or turned turtle at the bottom. Tucson, in early days was honored with many dis tinguished guests, United States senators, ambassa dors to foreign countries, barons and baronesses, so- 58 ODD TUCSON called, earthquakes and even presidents of the United States. In March, 1880, President Hayes arrived, and was entertained with much enthusiasm. The presi dential party and invited guests dined at the resi dence of Mr. and Mrs. W. W. Williams. In later years President Harrison also passed through Tuc son, and held an informal reception for the business men of the city from the platform of his private Pullman. Senator J. J. Ingalls, in one of his published letters concerning his visit to Tucson wrote: "I regret that I did not come earlier. It is said to be hotter than a crematory in summer, but the winter weather is cer tainly incomparable — if what I have experienced so far is a sample. The dryness, the stillness, the brightness, the inexplicable charm of mountain, plain and sky; the hues of sunset and dawn, the splendor of the stars, the vague, blue mystery of the horizon; the odd, quaint town, with its queer people and their habits; its gambling dens open on the main streets, day and night; its cowboys and miners and tramps and toughs and gentlemen, all make a scene of inde scribable interest and endhantment; Mexicans, Indi ans, negroes, Chinamen and Americans, with half a dozen different languages and lingoes, make up the constantly changing population, that, for all its vices and immoralities, is as quiet and orderly as any Kansas hamlet." Hon. Whitelaw Reid in the New York Tribune, says, concerning the air of Arizona: "The atmosphere is singularly clear, tonic and dry. I have never seen it clearer anywhere in the world. It seems to have about the same bracing and exhilarating qualities as the air of the great Sahara in Northern Africa, or of ODD TUCSON 59 the desert about Mount Sinai in Arabia. It is much drier than any part of the valley of the Nile north of Cataract." The baron and baroness mentioned were J. A. Peralta Reavis and his wife, who in those days trav eled in great state, for they had back of them capi tal furnished by men of great wealth, Robt. G. Inger- soll, Roscoe Conkling, Collis P. Huntington, John W. Mackay, Chas. Crocker and many others. Reavis planned, and barely failed of success, in perpetrating one of the most gigantic frauds against the United States government that was ever con ceived. The government paid over $100,000 in de fense. Reavis was convicted of conspiracy to defraud the government, his scheme was exploded, and his sentence was two years in the penitentiary of New Mexico. His object was to establish right to a vast grant of land, through inheritance of his orphan girl-wife, from an extinct family of Spanish nobility. They came to Tucson to have certain documents photographed, and to prove title, and probably to see the land — which was situated on the Gila river — consisting of 12,500,000 acres, computed at $100,- 000,000. Its western border rested upon the eastern line of the Pima reservation. When coming to Tucson they would send word ahead to reserve the entire upper part of old San Xavier Hotel for the use of themselves and retinue. Though Reavis was a villain, and his wife no better, yet it is the lot of the historian to chronicle the bad as well as the good. On May 3rd, 1887, the year following the close of our Indian troubles, Tucson experienced her first and last earthquake of any moment, for Arizona has 60 ODD TUCSON not been within the memory of men living, or of any known history, one of seismic misfortunes. That at some remote period it was the very center and outcome — as now presented — of great internal con vulsions, the whole aspect of the country demon strates, but it would seem on this one occasion that Tucson, as usual, trying to be a little ahead of her neighbors, sprung a surprise even on her own resi dents; for though the vibration lasted only three seconds, yet during that time houses rocked, walls — even that of the Congregational Church — were cracked, and many thought the end of the world had come. Hanging lamps swung violently, boxes were jarred off of shelves in closets, and dishes from shelves in stores. People who got out of doors, and looked around them saw the track of the quake as it went over the Catalina Mountains, leaving a cloud of dust that many imagined was steam from boiling volcanoes. No one was hurt, and very little damage rendered, but it opened the hearts of our citizens to the sufferings of afflicted San Francisco when news flashed around the world of her terrible misfortune by earthquake in 1906, for they made a donation of $5,024, and Governor Pardee of California wrote an appreciative letter of thanks to Mr. L. M. Jacobs, through whose hands the gift passed. From 1875 to 1895, various and numerous franchises were granted for artesian water, plain water, gas and gas lighting, electric lights, street railways, street grades, and improved sidewalks. Also for naming streets in extended districts, numbering houses, and telephone service. Even in 1905 a franchise to build, maintain, and operate street railways, on cer tain streets, was granted to three different parties — OLD TUCSON 61 all necessary and well meant improvements, showing how the best and highest were reached out for, some of which were accomplished, yet some expiring by limitation, crowned with disappointment many ef forts. Yet like the ever rising tide, each effort ap' proached more nearly to success, for from the Tuc son Post of March, 1906, edited by Mr. Herbert Brown, we extract the following: "The noisy clang ing wagon, distributing steel rails along Stone Ave nue, caused many smiles of intense satisfaction on the faces of our citizens, for they feel it to be an other step in the evolution of our city." And surely it was a prophecy of things to come, sewerage being extended the same year. The Tucson Citizen of same date announces, "That women will be allowed to vote at school elections, provided they are parents, or guardians, of a child of school age, residing in the district, or if they have paid a territorial or county school tax." This is evidence of two noble traits among our men: one, that they recognize the mental status of women; and the other, that they place a premium on motherhood. During these years P. R. Tully served a term as mayor, and a water franchise was granted R. N. Leath erwood, who sold his right to Parker & Watts, Jos. R. Watts, manager, and they erected water works, piping filtered water — first from the Santa Cruz above town — then digging wells in the bed of the river, thus supplying the city with as good, cold water as could be found anywhere, and as the city grew, more wells were dug. Also Chas. M. Strauss served as mayor, and with his councilmen, whose names cannot be learned, created valuable regula tions and ordinances relating to Fire Department and SHOWING OLD MILITARY PLAZA Photo by Buehman OLD TUCSON 63 Police Force, and the division of the city into Wards Nos. 1 and 2. W. E. Stevens and F. Maish also served as mayors, the latter of whom inaugurated the curfew — relating to children being on the street after 8 p. m. — and granting franchise to the Western Union Telegraph Company, and enacting ordinance looking to the em ployment of vagrants for street work. In 1893-1894 W. I. Perry was mayor; T. A. Judd, re corder. Mr. Perry's administration was character ized by great economy, for when it closed the city was out of debt and there was money in the treas ury. Thus the city government ran along, picking up lines here and there, yet still with most of the streets ungraded, which, with lack of capital, was probably responsible for failure of street car fran chises, and the sidewalks were neither graded nor curbed. From 1895 to 1899 Henry Buehman, mayor; Chas. T. Connell, recorder, we find the following ordinance enacted, and carried out in spirit and letter, by his very capable corps of councilmen, consisting of Frank Russell, Chas. F. Schumacher, General Wilson, L. D. Chilson, Chas. Burkhalter, Messrs. Whalley and Miltenburg: "Be it enacted by the mayor and com mon council, that the street commission are hereby authorized and empowered to establish the width, fix the grade, and prescribe the width of the sidewalks, of the whole, or any portion of the streets, and alleys, and to order the whole, or any portion, to be graded, paved, graveled or macadamized, in such manner, and with such materials as the public good and con venience may require." Also the fighting of fowls and animals was prohibited and Congress Street ex- 64 OLD TUCSON tended to the westward. Likewise, ordinances passed relating to the widening of Congress Street by the removal of the wedge, the purchase by the city of water works and sewerage mains, the latter of which was ably carried out in the succeeding administra tion, under Mr. Gust. A. Hoff, whose councilmen warmly seconded his efforts in that and other meas ures for the public welfare. The removal of the "wedge" was a big consideration, and though auspici ously for the city, was finally accomplished, yet re quired the earnest and energetic work of several ad ministrations, among whom were C. F. Schumacher and Gen. L. H. Manning, all of which is in the mem ory of present city residents. But we can hardly close this little history of the Pueblo without a sympathetic glalice at the old mule car street railway system, with its plodding motive power — not at all responsible for its grizzled appear ance, yet was a big step in transportation facilities for the social set of Tucson, though seldom that it could be caught for the return trip, as darkness often settled before it made an appearance. The University boys from town, though able to reach the scene of their daily toil on foot in advance of the car, yet, unless too late to make the cadet drill at 8 a. m., generally preferred to "take the car," in order to chat with the U. of A. girls, going out at an early hour for the class in domestic science. When, by reason of the jeers cast at them — for even mules are not so unfeeling as one might think — they lost their equanimity, and ran the car off the track, the fun loving, yet good hearted boys would jump off, and putting their shoulder to the wheels, lift the car, girls and all, back onto the track, then cheer the OLD TUCSON 65 mules on, as sort of an apology, and to make up for lost time. This street railway system was one, also, of ac commodation, for the patronage being slow, to match the mules, if the conductor saw across the plaza, a prospective passenger frantically waving her hands, the kind hearted man would wait a full ten minutes, and perhaps lose several passengers from other di rections, who being in a hurry, couldn't await the starting up of the car, and proceeded on their ways by biped trail. Sometimes in coming from the Uni versity on foot, and trying to cut off space, one would lose his way, and find himself standing in the arroya, under the Stone Avenue bridge; but why mock at the mules, even though they were the city's joke, and the humiliation of the burros, standing on the street corners, already ashamed of their old fathers and mothers? Now that we have installed the modern electric trolley line, which goes whizzing by, making one al most imagine himself in New York or San Francisco, we should not forget the humble way by which we climbed to the present accomplishment. Now that our citizens are preparing the way for great railroad enterprises which will materially in crease our population, it seems that the next improve ments from a monetary standpoint would be invest ment of capital, in the hands of big companies or moneyed syndicates capable of handling large pro jects, like raising artesian water, or water that does not necessarily lie so deep, yet is below the surface, awaiting only the action of vast machinery to make it the principal factor in the development of Ari zona's abundant resources. There is no doubt but 66 OLD TUCSON that mighty subterranean rivers, that once blessed this land in upper flow, still exist, sunken in beds of sand, like the Santa Cruz, or stratified rock, like the huge bulk more than a thousand feet below the surface at Tombstone, , in Cochise County, that seems to have quenched a mighty mining enterprise. Canals or water tunnels, costing perhaps millions of dollars, tapping the sur face and rocky caverns, possibly a hundred miles away, might lead that water to the irrigation of mil lions of acres, in its onward sweep to the sea. Then similar companies to build fine roads, and trolley lines to the top of our loftiest mountains, there to erect summer hotels and also to build and own hotels in the city, so that whatever the change of season or temperature, the same builders would always be sure of patronage to cover their heavy investments. " 'Tis silent effort moves the world, Not noise, nor show, nor strife." ADIOS ! 3 9002