YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

CHANGE

FOR THE

AMEKICAN NOTES;

LETTERS FROM LONDON TO NEW YORK.

AN AMERICAN LADY.

"Look here apon this picture and on this.'

LONDON:
WILEY & PUTNAM, STATIONERS' COURT.
edineukgh: a. and c. black.
dublin : w. curry and co.

1843.
[ENTEEBD AT 8TATI0NEBB' HALL.)

LONDON :
I'RINTED BY MANNING AND MASON
IVY-LANE, PATERNOSTER-ROW. '

PREFACE.

Flanders, an English historian has called the battle
field of Europe, whilst the United States of America
seem to be particularly regarded by the Enghsh as a
chosen land, on which author-errants may vent their
humours. Nearly all these travelled writers profess a
¦wish to cultivate and improve the good understanding
which should prevail between the child and parent
countries, and they then, with some honourable excep
tions, proceed to shew — strange means to such an end —
how rude and perverse is the overgrown baby America,
disregardful of parental admonitions, and perseverant
with ridiculous obstinacy in thinking, speaking, and
acting for herself. Itpleases these travellers to declare,
on their return to England, that they regard the
United States with kindly feelings and gay good-
humour. It may well be so; so much of their evil
humour has been packed up, forced into manuscript
to appear in print, that it was exhausted in the process :
their declarations are as the hum of the insect — their
books, its sting.

PBEFACE.

However varied the pursuits or vocations of these
journeyers — soldiers, sailors, bazaar-keepers, actresses,
lecturers, philosophers, gentlemen at large, or authors
by profession — very few present one of the attributes
of Hamlet, who tells us he "lacked gall;" they write
as if only a course of blisters could benefit the consti
tution of America — Sangrado's treatment was wiser,
for he did not add irritation to nausea.
He who runs, we have proverbial authority to believe,
may read, whenever the characters are legible enough;
some of these gentlemen have shewn that he who runs
may write, when the theme is merely the character of
America. British travellers perhaps, their transatlantic voyage
accomplished, have a foreign, a from-horae sort of
feehng; and thinking of foreign parts, find the United
States like a Greater Britain, and are dissatisfied that
it is not as their Britain; the difference in manners
pronunciation, and phraseology, they gravely and sagely
censure, precisely as they would provincialisms in their
own country, impertinent departures from the London
standard, — but America, like France or Germany is
surely entitled to establish a standard of her own.

PREFACE. V
"Were Dutch instead of English the language of the
United States, the works of English travellers would
be incalculably better — would display more sense and
less sneer; for another language would reconcUe to
these near-sighted observers another state of things,
whilst previous study would be necessary — what is
necessary now ? Long suffering in sea-sickness
sprightily described, considerable railwaying — or, as it
is sometimes called, railing — horror of tobacco, awe at
Niagara, and lo! an English work upon the United
States of North Aoierica.
It is hoped that the following famihar letters may
shew how several of these authors have erred; and that
they will, moreover, be found to present a fair, just,
and unexaggerated character of the English as they are.
That the work will produce any impression upon the
English themselves the authoress has not for a moment
contemplated; for when it is told of themselves, they
are a people singularly unmoved by — the Truth.
July, 1843.

CONTENTS.

LETTER I. P^GE
Recovery from Illness — Taxes in England — Custom-house —
Strangeness a Foreigner feels there— The Thames— General
Merits of Mr. Dickens — Particular Exception — American
Notes ... ... ... ... ... . . g
LETTER IL
French Fashions in New York and London — Dress of Queen
Victoria — Beauty of English and American Ladies  Well
preseved Beauty in Kngland — Opera-Ballets and Red Indian
Dances — Kegent-street — Rudeness to Ladies — Contrast to
American iVIanners — Solar Notes ... ... ... 17
LETTER in.
Executions — New York and London — Daniel Good — Executions
Popular with the many in England ... ... ... 23
LETTER IV.
English and American Characteristics — First and Second Class
Railway Carriages — Stage-coaches — might be Useful as Places
of Punishment^Great Western Railway — Windsor Castle ... 28
LETTER V.
Untold Wealth of London — Depth of Poverty — London Boys —
Drapery Establishments — Gin Palaces — Colloquy ... 37
LETTER VI.
'Craft' of Book-making — Charity and Leather Breeches —
St. Paul's as a Theatre — Charity Dinner — Workhouse —
Newgate — Felons who are • Couleur de Rose' ... ... 45

Vlll COKTENTS.

LETTER VII. VAGE
A London Stroll — Mr. Dickens's good Fortune in Pigs— London
Streets and Peculiarities— St. Paul's — Hardness of Allegory in
the Marble Monuments — Religio Loci — Bank of England —
Rich and Rude— Goldand Opium — The Tower — Harlequinade
of Streets — Thames Tunnel — Presumptuous Un-dertaking ... 55
LETTER VIII.
English Ignorance about America — Un-reading but Practical
Men — Impartiality of English Ignorance — Disregard of
Antiquities or Sacred Places — A Fire — Pastoral Incendiarism 65
LETTER IX.
Westminster Abbey. — Not safe to admit the Public — Monu
ments and Tombs — Westminster Hall — Houses of Parlia
ment — Members — Monomania — George III. and Johnson —
Bleatings in the House of Commons — Pompey the Negro ... 73
LETTER X.
London and American Dirt — Chairs — Dinner Parties — Music —
Aristocratic Literature — Y'oung Ladies — Much in Manner —
Superficial Knowledge — Clubs — Frolics of Aristocracy — Fire
Grates— What a Guy ! ... ... ... ... 84
LETTER XI.
Short Speech of the English — Surprising Ignorance in England 
Apathy of the Rich — Beau Ideal of an English 'traveller in the
United States — English have Little Love for their Country—
Mad« Tussaud's Waxworks— Heroes— Murderers, Wholesale
and Retail ... ... ... ... ... ..95
LETTER XII.
Mrs. Trollope — What's in a Name? — New Poor Law  Rich
English careless about the Poor — Expediency  Steam to
Richmond — Banks of the Thames westward — Richmond Hill
and Church — Omnibuses — Cheap Discomfort  SnufF

105

LETTER XIII.

' Respectable " versus " Smart " — English Domestic Servants 
Elisha— Sumptuary Law among Servants — Kathleen O'Roili
—The Tally—" An Old Tale and often told." ... ^ j j^

CONTENTS.

LETTER XIV.

Dress-makers — Exeter-Hall Oratory — Evils infiicted on Dress
makers unredressed, the Wrong being only in London —
Otherwise if a distant City — Lowell Offering — Americans
" Know not Seems " — Prevalent Vulgarism — Mr. W. C. ... 126

LETTER XV.
Churchyards — Horrors of City Sepulture- Village Churchyards
— Flower-garden Cemeteries — Kensal Green — Mr. Morison —
Quackery — Abney Park^ — India House — Treaties of Cession
from Hindoos and other Orientals — Worship of Juggernaut
and Gates of Somnauth to be conducive to Christianity in the ^
East — London Citizens — Easily distinguishable — Speculation
in their Eyes — Quakers — Jews ... ... ... 136

LETTER XVL
Queen's Drawing-room — Procession— Footmen — A Tuft-hunter
— The Poor — English and Roman Benevolence — Illumi
nations — Street Crowds and Badinage — Bridges — Banks of
the Thames eastward — Greenwich — Painted-hall — Chapel —
Cost of the Embellishments dwelt upon — So very English —
Instance of Gallantry ... ... ... ... ... 146
LETTER XVII.
Phrenology — Anecdote — British Museum — Vastness — Erudition
of some of the Visitors — National Gallery — Royal Academy —
The Exhibition — Portraits — Advertisements — Dulwich — The
Polytechnic Exhibition ... ... ... ... 157

LETTER XVIII.
Rain — Advertisements on Wheels — PufFs and Sandwiches. — Boz
keeps himself very close — Boz an Antagonist of the Pretending
— Faultlessness of Money — Omnibuses ¦ — Provisions for
Christmas Enjoyment — Boxing-day — May Sports — Streets at
Night ... ... ... ... ... ... 169
LETTER XIX.
London Sights — The Colosseum — Panorama of London — New
Squares and Streets — A City of Opulence — " Distance lends
Enchantment to the View " — Zoological Gardens — Raising of
a Water-rat — Public Gardens ... ... ... ... 180

CONTENTS.

LETTER XX.

JMr. W. C— Oysters and Wickedness— Public Statues — There 's
Honour for You!  Soot usurping the Divinity that should
hedge a King — the Monument— Modern Eastoheap — Gold
smith's Hall — Post Office — Penny-postage Boon — Lion-
hunting ... ... ... ... ... ... 192

LETTER XXL
Palaces — Twickenham — Pope's Grotto — Among Things that
were — Strawberry- hill — Hampton-court Palace — Cartoons
and Paintings — Cardinal Wolsey — Mr. Charles Kean — Mon-
mouth-street — Foreigners — Unrazored — Cowper — Bazaars —
Much-oiFending Cincinnati — The English " Impossible " ... 201

LETTER XXII.
Washington and Jack the Giant Killer— Early Rising — A
favourite Precept — The late Duke of Sussex — ^The Lying-in
state — The Crowd — Their Remarks — The Funeral  Royalty
— Chronicle of Royal Drivings and Dinings — Meagre and
Unsatisfactory ... ... ... ... ... 212

LETTER XXIIL
Slavery — Police Station-house— Officer — Severe and Stern to
view— Irish Oratory— Aldermen — Small Legislation— Beg
gars — Hospitals — Exeter-hall Oratory ... ... 221

LETTER XXIV.
Behaviour in American and English Theatres— London Audiences
httle Intelligent— Opera—Its Absurdity— Heroine Swan-like
in her Death--Injudicious Applause - Improvement in the
Drama-The Ballet-A coarse Taste-Singing- Wild Beasts
— Private Theatricals ... ... no,,
LETTER XXV.
Southampton — English Jocularity — The next best Ti,-
Abbeys-Isle of Wight— Charles the First-Pier T)'"^ ~
Smuggling — Portsmouth — The Victory — Nelson — r"'^*~~
becoming a London Suburb— American and English Stea*^"^^*^^ '>43

CONTENTS. XI

LETTER XXVL pace
The Duke — Lablache — Extremes meet — St. James's Park —
Duke of Y'ork's Column — Hyde Park — Achilles — Fame and
its Moral — Kensington Gardens — Regent's Park — " Dagger
of Lath " — Flute-playing — Coleridge — Opium-eating — Mrs.
Dwyer ... ... ... ... ... ... 257
LETTER XXVII.
Packing — Covent-garden Market — The Unnatural preferred —
A Fog — Foundling Hospital — American Vauntingness —
English Self-laudation — Churches — Cathedral Service — Great
Want of Churches — "Impossible" ... ... ... 269

LETTER XXVIII.
Alison's History of Europe — Strange Mis-statement — Duellers
— Further Mis-statement — Miss Martineau — History Writing
made Easy — Pronunciation — Newspapers ... ... 279
LETTER XXIX.
An Englishman in Love — Colleges — Puseyism — Luther — French
Protestants — Church Livings — Preachers — Robert Owen ... 291

LETTER XXX.
* Wight' V. 'White' Horse — English Journals — Independent —
Irish Reporters quick witted — Lord Canterbury — Metaphysics
of Dancing — Mad® Cerito points a Moral — Opera Uproars —
Party Politics — Ireland — A Pauper Funeral — Income-Tax —
Casesof peculiar Hardship — Elisha ... ... ... 303
LETTER XXXI.
Boundary Question — Advantages of Settlement — A Proof before
Letters — Epsom and the Derby-day — Vehicular Chain— The
Race-ground — The Race — Race Horses — The Turf — Bays
and Greys — Return — Vulgarism — Police — Magazines and
Reviews ... ... ... ... ... ... 31.3

LETTER XXXIL
Suicides — Education — Stables and Schools — Bishop of Man
chester — Strange Puzzlement — Indians— -Ingenuity in Igno
rance — Mr. Alison — Four Frigates against Two Thoasand
Ships — American Boastfulness — English Inquiries ... 323

CONTENTS.

LETTER XXXIIL pace
Funerals — Professors of Tears — A Black Coachman — Irish
'Wakes' — 'The Scream of the Morning' — New England
Towns — Newness — Mr. Dickens — New York — ' Uncreditable'
Stateraent — Mr. Guy — Yorkshire — Ruin of England — Ruined
Cities of America — Chinese Exhibition — ' Literary Gentlemen
in their Summer Costumes ' — Penny-a-liners — China — A Fit
of ' Abstraction ' ... ... ... ... ... 335
LETTER XXXIV.
Cries of London — Sound — Aristocracy — Gluttony — "Repudia
tion" — Bank of England — Bad Example badly followed —
Standing Army — Ireland — United States a Great Barrack —
— Military Despotism — Art-Unions — Prince Albert — Sir
Robert Peel in Fetters — Houses in America ... ... 346
LETTER XXXV.
Poverty of Street- Nomenclature — English Climate — Fire-flies
and Mosquitoes — Fox-hunting — Playing at Deer-hunts —
Animal Magnetism — Slavery — Mrs. Trollope— Ignorance —
Precedent — Sandwich Islands — Democracy of the Anglo-
Indian Government ... ... ... ... ... 356
LETTER XXXVI.
Gaming-houses — Personal Character of the Sovereign — Royal
Dinner — Table Etiquette — Temperance Societies — Modern
Works— Pyramids— A Soiree — A Shadow — Macaulay's
"Lays" — Wealth Worship ... ... ggj
LETTER XXXVII.
Law— Delays-English Characteristics- Charity— Education—
Unamiabihty--- Ruin - Foreign Grievances- Refinement-
Ladies ot England — Conclusion ... o™

LETTERS

AN AMEEICAN LADY.

LETTER L
RECOVERY FROM ILLNESS  TAXES IN ENGLAND  CUSTOM-HOUSE 
STRANGENESS A FOREIGNER FEELS THERE  THE THAMES 
GENERAL MERITS OF MR. DICKENS  PARTICULAR EXCEPTION 
AMERICAN NOTES.

MRS.  TO MISS  , NEW YORK.
Dearest Julia, London,  1843.
How wearisome is a slow recovery from illness
in the heart of a mighty city, and that when you are
widowed and alone; how loudly do clattering carriages
and countless noises tell of boisterous and unsympa-
thising health without, and what a petty unit one feels
within. Do you not think it is this sensation of un
aided loneliness that makes so many of our sex (I
inay admit it to you) feel or consider spinsterhood and
wretchedness inseparable? Better social penury than
solitary enjoyment; — better " the poor creature small
beer," with the flavour of a famUy about it, than
imperial Tokay sipped from an unmated glass — " self-

10 letters ERGII
love and social" in this sense bear out the poet's axiom,
and are, indeed, " the same."
My former letters were so very domestic and personal
that they might have been written frora Boston as well
as from London. I promised when I had leisure — and
ray illness gave me ample leisure to read as it does
now to write — I promised to tell you of London, and
how it differed from New York; and of its people, and
its ways, and its Boz — the last who has treated of
America, though very far frora the least. I prescribe
to myself a course of letters to you — to home, with its
old familiar faces, as better than the hieroglyphic
scribblings of my kind and skilful physician Dr. C.
Here is dose — I trust not doze — the first. My stay in
this country (may all good angels be praised!) must be
nearly completed, for so is the business which could not
be transacted with less than my personal attendance.
How important I ought to feel. I was transatlantically
wanted! Heighol^But I can bear witness to "the
law's delay," as weU as to its uncertainty. I am now,
however, to tell "all I have seen and thought. Patiently
and perseveringly have my eyes and my memory paid
the many taxes imposed upon them : in New York I
might claim some little merit for this; but hardly in
London, where taxes are too common to claim praise
for payment, however punctual or distressing—where
heaven's hght is apportioned through taxed windows,
and earth's dust on taxed roads— the blood royal and
the smuggler bold seem the only parties claiming any
right of exemption.

AN AMERICAN LADY. 11
I told you previously how I suffered during that series
of storms, our voyage. Thank God, we found " the
good ship tight and free." How I survived I know
not; deplorably indeed did I " suffer a sea change,"
¦but not like Ferdinand's father,
" Into something rich and strange;"
and when I arrived at the Custom-house, which abuts
upon the noble river Thames (to speak after the manner
of Englishmen), my sea-sickness was superseded by a
nausea and disgust of a perfectly terrestrial nature.
Mr. Dickens extols the arrangements of the Custom
house at Boston, and points it out as an example to
his own country. Well he may ! My earliest impres
sion upon touching land was that civility and the
customs of England were incompatible. Such system
in their surliaess; it must have cost great pains to have
forced it to its present perfection, and severe drilling to
maintain it there, — to prevent its degenerating into
ordinary humanity. I complained, truly enough I
am sure, that I was suffering from exhaustion, and
especially needed one smaU packet without delay as it
contained medicine. I was told to wait. I inquired
how long, and the officer paused and told me — to waif!
Our republican ears have been somewhat startled to
hear of even Dr. Johnson murmuring that he was
compelled to wait in the ante-chamber of a lord. If
a foreigner visit England to court the great; to dance
untiring attendance upon the wealthy, the Custom
house affords him fine probationary practice.

12 LETTERS FROM
I wonder what the gentlemen who sit at the receipt
of customs are in their own homes. Do they " wear
sweet smiles and look erect on heaven," and break soft
bread like other men; or do they stick with official-like
pertinacity to crusts'! Do they marry out of their own
people? What are their amusements, their pursuits,
their dreams? More especially, are they humanised
o' Sundays? A history of the domestic habits of a
customs' officer could not but be curious.
Mr. Mortimer told me they meant to be civil — this
moroseness was only in their manner — " pretty Fanny's
way." Coarseness is a bully's way, and who regards
his intentions? Neither are the British very ready to
excuse what they call rudeness among us, no matter
how it is meant. If these people really do intend good
manners, what a contribution must they daily offer to a
pavement which I need not particularise. In very few of
the pubhc departments of this country, as far as I have
seen, can you find perfect civility— the nearest approach
is but an absence of incivility— an avoidance of actual
rudeness — individual instances prove nothing.
I have not yet got over my feeling of the smaUness
of the river. I have even seen " old Father Thames
advance his reverend head," and flood the streets along
his banks, and have smUed to think this was the father
of Enghsh rivers ! Could these vaunting Cockneys see
the Father of American rivers, what a puny offspring
would their Thames appear— a mere boy-river— a thing
for painted barges and tiny steamers and show-bridges.

AN AMERICAN LADY. 13
having the honours of a tide and a Lord Mayor's
conservancy some few miles above London, and widen
ing to a respectable wateriness only as it nears the
sea. You have often accused me of a grievous want
of nationality. Do I not give you a proper specimen
here, how " we Americans" can vaunt — sometimes.
Like you, dear Julia, I was all impatience to peruse
the work of the most popular of English writers on
America. It was not difficult to foretel that the pub
licity of his movements — the newspaper proclamations
that ilr. Dickens honoured the poor distant republic
with his presence — must have prevented his gazing
through an unmisted eye-glass. I hope it is not unfair
to presume that he may aid his vision by artificial
means, for as most of his young countrymen are, or
affect to be near-sighted, why not he? "Assume a
virtue if you have it not," said the hapless prince who
was "wise in vain;" aud to be near-sighted in their
views must be esteemed a virtue among Englishmen,
or why should so many of the young and the healthy
refuse to look at things with their own eyes ?
The Americans were prepared for Mr. Dickens, and
society was under some restraint; it could not be other
wise. What would be the behaviour of any circle in any
part of the three kingdoms (why don't they call them
queendoms now ? ) if they were avized that a chiel was
" amang them takin' notes,
And faith, he'd prent it,''
and notes too for general circulation? Keener optics

14 LETTERS FROM
than even those of Boz would be futUe to discern the
reality through the haze of make-believe.
Do not suppose that I am slow to acknowledge the
great merits of Boz — the lion par excellence of his day.
I have not to be informed of his originality — of his
opening and working a new vein in his land's literature.
One feels better after reading his books — better after
the humour of his Wellers — the amenity of his Pick
wick (bow he ripens from an essayist upon tittlebats
into the kindly gentleman) — one's heart warms to poor
Oliver Twist — one's indignation rises against Ralph
Nickleby — one's disgust at the Squeers's, and one's
gorge at Pecksniff. But (these huts!) if he be creative
as a novelist, he is most meagre as a traveller; our
country was beyond his powers, and indeed is beyond
the four months' power of any man. " In America,"
says Dr. Johnson — truly I doubt not for it was in 1762 —
"there is little to be observed except natural curiosities."
Very opposite seems to be Mr. Dickens's conclusion,
for of the great face of nature he says hardly anything.
The noblest rivers in the world rolled for him unre
garded by, or at least unparagraphed. In the Missis
sippi he beholds but a muddy stream flowing through
a woody wilderness; his mind's eye catches no prescient
glimpse of the cities that in the fulness of time wiU
adorn its banks; he alludes not to the "aU haU here
after!" He is diffuse upon prisons and madhouses,
for they were immediately within his ken; brief when
he tells of senates, laws, religions, literature, or science ¦

AN AMERICAN LADY. 15
things that have prospective influences, and are not
merely of the moment. He is at home among the
vulgarisms and provincialisms we have derived, almost
enthely, from the old country — he is not at home in
our colleges and schools. He says little upon great
things, and much upon little things; looks not through
parts to the whole, but regards trifling parts for their
own trifling sake. He notices the small rust-spots on
the bright steel, but says little of the excellence — the
temper of the blade. So completely is this the case,
that one might apply to him a similitude of Goldsmith,
and instead of " an eagle," speak of a Uon " catching
flies" — some of them may prove mosquitoes. He
ought most assuredly to have published his work as by
Samuel Weller, jun., it would then have been admirably
in keeping.
But enough of Mr. Dickens for the present. I really
must methodise the plan of my letters, and let you see
I write of London as well as from it. Some one has
applied a line of Pope to an ingenious piece of vegetable
intricacy at Hampton Court — " a mighty maze, but not
without a plan." I think the line is very applicable to
the Modern Babylon, and I must think of it, and write
more " by the card " and the plan, and less after the
manner of the maze; but in truth, I know not where
to begin, I am distracted just as strangers are at the
very-much-omnibused White Horse Cellar (I can see
it from my windows in Piccadilly) by the conflicting
shouts of the coachmen and conductors and amateur-

16 LETTERS FROM
conductors ofthe host of vehicles — "Richmond, sir?"
"Kew, ma'am?" "Hammersmith?" "Brentford?"
"Twit'nam?" "Bow?" "Mile-end?" " City* City?"
"Bank, Bank, Bank?" Of which of these places or
themes shall I epistolise first? Well, they are all before
me where to choose. Adieu for a while. What un
tiring fingers and unsleeping eyes the young lady
journalists of Richardson or Miss Burney must have
had! I envy thera, and wish I could be with you again
without being rocked " in cradle of the rude imperious
surge " of that great, great sea.
Ever dearest Julia, etc. etc.

AN AMERICAN LADY. 17

LETTER II.

FRHNCH F.ISHIONS IX NEW YORK AND LONDON  DRESS OF QUEEN
VICTORH  BEAUTY OF ENGLISH AND AMERICAN LADIES -;— WELL
PRESERVED BE.4UTY IN ENGLAND  OPERA-BALLETS AND RED
INDIAN DANCES  KEGENT-STREET  RUDENESS TO LADIES 
CONTRAST TO AMERICAN MANNERS  SOLAR NOTES.

My DEAREST Julia, London,  1843.
Madame D. has just sent home my new bonnet
— it is perfection. Depend upon it, the French are the
only people who thoroughly understand the science of
dress, that is ladies' dress, and science as distinguished
from quackery; the leaders of the modes in Paris have
graduated in a college of good taste. I do not scruple
to assert that in the French fashions we are in advance
of the ladies of London. I do not know whether this
be or be not owing to a certain class here setting or
attempting to set a fashion of their own (fair usurpers
in the domains of lace, ribbon, and satin), but I am
satisfied it is so. I bave heard English ladies, and not
unfrequently, pronounce their fair young Queen's shawl
or bonnet unfashionable; so you see fashion is not
strictly monarchical, nor does she play such fantastic
tricks in Queen Victoria's court as elsewhere. I have
b2

18 LETTERS FROM
seen Her Majesty realize the description of a fair lady
of old— "And then her dress — what beautiful simplicity
Draperied her form with curious felicity:"
You inquire if the British ladies are prettier than those
in a younger world, and truly Miss Julia, it is a very
comprehensive question. Into how raany heads ought
I to divide it? How much paper, postage, and time,
ought to be expended in a due response? It requires
no eye-glass to perceive that many, very many, beautiful
women brighten the circles of London society; but — but
— how shall I tell it? I will shelter myself, I think,
under a noun of number; but — a host of travellers con
cur in paying homage to the superiority of the female
loveliness of America. Is it for me to gainsay them
all? Do you New York ladies feel at all propitiated
that Boz (a very handsome man himself) describes you
as "singularly beautiful," and so you are. Neither does
Boz aver, as others (rude critics that they are!) have
done before him, that American beauty soon fades —
" If all that's bright must fade,
The brightest still the fleetest,"
you, my love, wiU look quite old at twenty-five. I do
not think any particular style of beauty predominates
here more than with us— blondes and brunettes are not
unfrequently seen in the same family, just as we had
different-tinted roses on the same stem in that dear
garden by the Hudson. I know two sisters who both
wear the hair a la reine, but with this difference • that

AN AMERICAN LADY. 19
the fair brow of one is shaded with auburn, the other
with raven, both of the softest, silkiest texture. Tbe
English ladies certainly resemble sonie kinds of old
lace — they wear well — passing well. Very beautiful
are very many ladies of  now imagine any envious
term of years you think should, or rather wiU, fling
beauty into the sere and yellow leaf, into the grey and
falling hair. We need not inquire what sums are paid
to the ingenious artists (really ar^-ists) who supply the
complexional roses of both York and Lancaster; we
need not more than allude to closetings with modistes,
and as to a perruquier — 0, name not his name. Let
us rest satisfied with the pleasing effect, nor pry too
closely into the cause —
" T'were to consider too curiously to consider thus."
The most remarkable display of beauty is perhaps to
be seen at the Opera-house — Her Majesty's Theatre —
it is really tiered with loveliness, with unadorned as
well as jewelled beauty. The Queen, who is said to
be a proficient in music as well as to be very fond of it,
frequently attends. I may tell you afterwards of operas
and theatres, but I must make one remark here; that
my first beholding a ballet convinced me how extremes
meet. The dances of our red Indians, the delight
of savage man, saving that their dances are always
modest, are not far removed from the wild graces, the
flexibility of limb and gesture of the EUslers and the
Ceritos — and gentlemen and old gentlemen, quoted as

20 LETTERS FROM
among the most civilised, nay polished, of Europe's
sons, regard these agile danseuses as creatures of rare
merit. It may be that grace is in all their steps;
but commend me to the untaught motion of the chUd
of the forest. Some one said of some great orator,
(Demosthenes, was it not?) that his speeches smelt of
the lamp; and so, literally and figuratively, do the
movements of these tolerably well paid operatic pro
fessors. The Opera-house occupies the corner of the Hay-
market and Pall Mall: it is a very large handsome
structure, and shopped in its colonnades and arcades.
A little beyond the top of the Hayraarket (where every
thing is sold but hay) is Regent-street ; a long, spacious
and rather winding street, the architectural boast of
Western London; very fine in parts, and very startling
too, but all stucco, stucco, stucco ! What a city would
London have been, had it been neighboured by quarries
of freestone and marble. A little higher than the part
where Piccadilly intersects it, commences the Quadrant
of Regent-street — this is a covered colonnade — "from
storms a shelter, and from heat a shade;" the support
ing pUlars are placed at regular intervals at the edge of
a wide trottoir; the effect is the same as that produced
by the successive awnings in Broadway; the appearance
much finer. The architecture of Regent-street is not
iUiberally confined to any style or sect. Mr. Nash, the
architect, was no professional bigot, his ideal of excel
lence was the taste of George the Fourth, and he might
have had a far worse guide.

AN AMERICAN LADY. 31
" Never once," says Mr. Dickens of America, " did I
see a woman exposed to the shghtest act of rudeness, in--
civility, or even inattention." I cannot echo this praise
of England. Some one has said that half the mistakes
in the world arise from " taking for granted." I made
the mistake of taking for granted that forbearance, to
say the least, where ladies were concerned, would be as
common in the streets of London as in any American
city. I was soon undeceived; for when I first walked
along Regent-street, and some of the streets adjoin
ing it, I was annoyed beyond a pen's telling, by glance
after glance poked under my bonnet. I felt wearied,
worried, and afraid; that vague kind of fear so wretch
edly depressing; — a lady does not know what it is
exactly she has to apprehend, and so dreads every thing.
When afterwards I complained, Mr. Mortimer accounted
for the persecution I suffered by saying these inquisi
tive persons were not gentlemen — gentlemen must be
scarce in those parts then. This happened too when I
was new to London and its rudeness, and when my
principal feehng in the mighty maze was bewilderment
— a dependence upon others, and even upon strangers,
sufficiently galling.
It was long before I hked to venture abroad, even a
street or two off, unescorted, and when I had hired by
the month a plain two-horse chariot and coachman
(plain also), which here they call, and not inaptly,
a job, and was conveyed any distance, I felt an igno
rance of my whereabout that would have done honour

%% LETTERS FROM
to an infant ; " east or west, where'er I turned," were
the endless streets, and squares, and places, and rows,
and terraces! I did at last obtain a tolerable know
ledge of localities; but really my ignorance for a month
or two was as dense as that of Mr. Dickens of the
Western States he was about to visit. " He looked"
(unsophisticated Boz) " for two evenings at the setting
sun," but apparently derived no ray of inteUigence
from the gorgeous luminary; for he — and I fear he
is ungallant enough to include Mrs. Dickens — he, or
rather "we, had as well defined an idea of the country
before us as if we had been going to travel into the
very centre of that planet." Geographical knowledge
must be at a low ebb in England, when an accom
plished author makes such an admission — perhaps
books or maps are scarce, or dear. I honour Mr.
Dickens for his candour, and trust if ever he should
travel in that " planet," as he somewhat curiously calls
the sun of our system, his Solar will be better than his
American notes. His countrymen already possess Solar
oil— I see it announced in some of the shop windows—
and this is perhaps the first step to Solar intercourse,
the breaking ground sun-ward. I must inquire if they
import this oU direct, or by way of Mercury and Venus.
The last word brings your image so sweetly before me,
that I wiU let my thoughts flee across the Atlantic and
give my fingers pause. Ever, etc.

AN AMERICAN LADY. 23

LETTER m.

EXECUTIONS  NEW YORK 4ND LONDON  DANIEL GOOD — EXECUTIONS
POPULAR WITII THE MANY IN ENGLAND.

My dearest Julia, London,  1843.
A hundred thousand thanks for your welcome
letter. How hallowed is even domestic chit-chat when
affection wafts it a few thousand miles. Trifles passing
through the ordeal of a transatlantic post are never
hght as air, they are aggrandised, they are  but
don't let me grow sententious.
And so that unhappy man, who some eleven years
ago was one of our uncle A's clerks, has forfeited his
life to his country's laws. Alas! alas! and yet I do
not marvel; for no meanness is too little, no crime too
enormous for a resolute miser to be guilty of when lucre
lures him on ; his heart seems cased in triple gold,
and the stings of conscience cannot penetrate through
the armour of Mammon ; but dear me, bow sententious
again, I think it must be that the subject makes one
write in a manner different from one's ordinary way.
Your account reminds me of an execution here, one
morning last summer. I left my bed at an early hour,
for pain and lassitude made me long for change, merely

24 letters from
because it was change. When I looked out into the
street I saw no inconsiderable number of persons
hastening eastwards. I rang to inquire the reason of
this unwonted commotion at such an hom'. It was
some tirae before my bell was answered, "Please ma'am,"
at last said the eager hand-maiden, " Good's a-going
to be hanged."
And men — ay Julia, and women too, crowded to the
sight until the choked-up street refused admittance to
thousands. They boast of their civilization— these
Englishmen — and the most attractive spectacle to the
mass, is a felon's death! Justice in England should
have a halter added to her effigy : an execution here is
a pageant, a show, a cheap and popular excitement, —
genuine agony, to be enjoyed gratuitously, — real con
vulsions. Oh! hanging's your effective, your only
tragedy. In twenty years or less, I do believe our American
custom in inflicting the dreadful penalty of death wiU
prevaU in England, that is, if capital punishment be
not altogether abolished. The criminal here hardens
his heart for the last part he Bas to perform in public.
Numbers, of whose guUt there could be no doubt,
have died asseverating their innocence. Good did. And
why? Because every one of these men (callous as they
might be) shrank from facing the crowd as a murderer
confessed, and hoped for their sympathy if he perse
veringly declared his innocence,- and he did so declare
it, and his last breath was— a lie!

AN AMERICAN LADY. 25
The sufferer knows that he has been the darling
topic of a great portion of the pubhc press for many
days. The misdeeds of his whole life have been can
vassed, and ladies have visited him in his condemned
cell; some to present him flowers, some to pray with
him, some to procure his autograph for an album, or
if he cannot write, an inky mark from the hand that
perpetrated a murder, or a lock from the head that
planned it; and he has listened, or struggled to listen,
to a last sermon in the prison chapel; and magistrates'
ladies and privileged visitors have knelt with him to
hear the blessed Word of the ever-living God, and
gaze upon the W'hite lips on which would soon be the
clamminess of death. Despite his fears, he feels that
he is the hero of the scene; that he divides these stran
gers' regards with the serrice of the church, and he
studies less to prepare to die than to encounter their
curious and searching eyes.
I do not mean to say that this individual case has
been characterised by all these things. I tell you what
has been, and what it is to be hoped may never be
again. In New York, where the criminal suffers within
the walls of the prison, the law enjoining the presence
of a certain number of citizens and official characters,
the public are shut out; but through the very heart of
the city goes the rumour that the law has taken life as
a punishment for crime. The most hardened offender
feels awed— appalled; he may pause in his mad career,
for his imagination pictures the death-scene in colours

26 LETTERS FROM
that terrify his inmost soul — fear is sublime in its
exaggerations. But HERE, he sees it! The hooting or sympathetic
rabble banish reflection. The struggle to obtain a good
place calls forth his bodUy energies; he has something
to contend and clamour for; and he hears ribald jokes
at the very gallows' foot — and what a fine thing it is to
die hard, and how Newgate Calendars — but, lo! the
victim. AU eyes are directed towards him. The sight
of his fellows prevents his thoughts dwelhng on his
God. He espies comrades in the crowd, and remembers
their combined, skilful, and successful rapine in other
days, and their unholy orgies afterwards; his lips
mechanically repeat words of prayer, and his heart is
in past scenes of low delight — and so he dies.
The body hangs a certain time, and women say "how
shocking," and men "how queer" he looks; and boys
shout out, "Did you ever?"— "What a Guy!"— "Does
his mother know he's out?" and casts are taken from his
skull, and his carcass is buried within the prison waUs,
and his deeds recorded in cheap pamphlets for the
edification of ingenuous youth.
This man— Daniel Good, a gentleman's servant-
murdered a woman, concealed the body, which he had
dismembered, in his master's stable, and was proceed
ing to burn it piecemeal when the discovery took place.
If any master-fiend in this country strikes out origin
ality of crime, it is soon imitated. One Greenacre was
the first dismemberer, at least in men's memories, and

AN AMERICAN LADY. 37
Good was his disciple. Burk and Hare (villains
unparalleled), some years ago in Edinburgh, killed
helpless and homeless wretches to sell their bodies for
dissection to the surgeons; and a man called Bishop,
with two other ruffians, introduced the crime into
London — worse than horrible !
UntU the reign of the present sovereign, and (I
believe) her two predecessors, executions were so com
mon throughout the land, that the English code was
stigmatised as the bloodiest in Europe. Do not think
this hanging spectacle may be over-coloured. I was
told the particulars by English gentlemen, — by one
especially who is a most acute observer, and has an
undying curiosity to see every thing or any thing. I
beheve the case is rather understated than otherwise.
The criminal trials here, all admit, present the per
fection of justice; — cool, impartial, yet indulgent. In
petty offences police-magistrates are said generally to
take into consideration the station in hfe of the accused.
That is a grave misdemeanour and an imprisonment in
the poor man, which is a frolic and a fine in the lord-
ling; — but 'tis the old story —
That in the captain 's but a choleric word
Which in the soldier is flat blasphemy.
And now let me answer the inquiries in your letters.
;{< :i: :ic 5l< *
Ever, etc.

28 LETTERS FROM

LETTER IV.

ENGLISH AND AMERICAN CHARACTERISTICS  FIRST AND SECOND-
CLASS RAILWAY CARRIAGES  STAGE-COACHES — MIGHT EE USEFUL
AS PLACES OF PUNISHMENT  GREAT WESTERN RAILWAY —
WINDSOR CASTLE.

My dearest Julia, London,  1843.
I dare say you would be surprised to learn
¦ — I was — that "the most obliging, considerate, and
gentlemanly person Mr. Dickens ever had to deal with"
(strong language) should be an innkeeper at Harris
burg. I pretend not to be a judge of what men
consider gentlemanly bearing in their intercourse one
with another; but I know the Americans are accused
of being deficient in that respect. Sooth to say, I care
so httle about the matter, that I will not enter upon
this vexed question. Most assuredly no one can deny
the deference, the tone of good manners toward our sex,
not only prevalent, but universal in America.
I am told the English mean (more good intentions-
more masses of pavement) to testify as respectful a
regard as the Americans; if it be so, certainly their way
of doing it is fuU of oddness and originality. Better
the Yankee inquisitiveness, of which travellers complain,

AN AMERICAN LADY. 29
than utter and contemptuous silence; better "an em
bodied inquiry," an animated note of interrogation with
the twist in the mind, than the surly masculine selfish
ness I have so often met with here. I am inclined
to think Englishmen consider this repulsiveness" a
becoming and even national attribute — a sort of birth
right. Esau's example has not been followed; this
personal property is rarely disposed of, but is handed
down intact from father to son. . The English appear
to regard the "petits spins," the attention ladies are
taught to expect in society as a tax upon their time and
speech, and like a tax they pay it — that is, grudgingly,
or not at all if they can help it. When do you see
gratuitous politeness extended to age — when to poverty ?
Some time ago I promised to accompany Mr. and
Mrs. Griffiths to Windsor; an accident prevented Mr.
G. accompanying us, and we ventured to go without
him. We travelled by the Great Western Railway (a
line from London to Bristol) one of the stations of
which is Slough, a mile or two from Windsor. Ladies
and gentlemen perforce occupy the same carriages; nor
are the best seats, nor any seats reserved for the more
delicate sex. On the contrary, a pleasure-tourist to
Windsor, which is only one or two and twenty miles
from London, will as soon as possible appropriate a
seat which pleases him, put on it a rough coarse outer-
coat (fit emblem!) to intimate his right of possession,
and esteem himself ill-used if requested to yield it to
a lady. Should you arrive (as was our case) only a

30 letters from
minute or two before the time of starting, you must
clirab and push your way to your place over gentlemen's
knees as well as you can, and sit down, feeling you are
one crimson, and with an idle hope that your feUow
passengers' impudent starings may not be continued
the whole way.
This was in the best and most expensive carriage —
the first class one — the second class is uncushioned and
unpartitioned, and studiously uncomfortable, to compel
travellers, I suppose, and railways are now a monopoly,
to use the first and better remunerating class. These
second-class carriages are even open at the sides, and
every passenger, male or female, robust or sickly, is
exposed to the inclemency of the weather; and how the
wind does rush through a railway-carriage, as if, angry
at the almost wind-like rapidity with which man, when
steam is his ally, can dart along the earth ! If those
carriages had been known to ancient Rome, they would
have been dedicated to .^olus, for they are sacred to all
the winds of heaven. An English stage-coach, with its
splendid appointments, its fleet horses, its rubicund
coachman and superfluous " guard," must be a most
wretched way of travelling; I mean for those who travel
on its hard, uncovered, unprotected top. I wonder
culprits were never taken a wet wintry journey of two
or three hundred mUes as a punishment— transportation
in a smaU way. Our own stage-coaches swinging over
the mountains and corduroy roads, with their "nine
inside," are infinitely preferable in point of comfort to

AN AMERICAN LADY. 31
" that bad eminence," the top of an English stage
coach, at any rate when the quicksilver lurks about the
freezing point. A French Diligence is greatly superior.
As only the poorer classes are subjected to those an
noyances in England, it is considered a thing of no
moment; very well as it is; otherwise it would soon
be remedied. No smoking is allowed in any of the
carriages — there are no feathery showers, such as Boz
tells of. The English rarely open their mouths for
any pui-pose but to eat and drink whilst they travel.
I found this the case, not only in this short trip, but
in my journey to the North, and elsewhere; they are as
fond of taciturnity as the Americans are of tobacco;
and for my single self, I cannot see the good of either.
Many an American will sit " chewing the cud of sweet
and bitter fancy" with his weed, but he never forgets
the attentions due to the other sex; whilst many an
Englishman sits " wrapped in dismal thinkings," for
getful or neglectful of everything but himself.
" And with each breath he draws, he seems t' inhale
Gloom thrice distilled;"
but he dispenses with the potent weed. I care not to
dwell upon this subject; but it really appears that the
main discovery which clever men have crossed the
Atlantic to make, and which ladies have carefully
recorded in their diaries, is, that the Americans— 7
I must use the vernacular— spit. Were I asked a
national characteristic of Englishmen, I should say they
— sulk.

32 letters from
The railway is a splendid achievement, perhaps as
faultless as any railway yet in existence. Several omni
buses were waiting at Slough to convey the raUway
deposit to Windsor; there was a rush to secure places;
we did not court a rude crush, so held back, and every
place was filled (young men principaUy), and we two
unhappy ladies were left behind, having the option to
walk or wait; so we did walk.
A short distance from Eton, which adjoins Windsor,
the Thames dividing them, we met a very sedate-looking
serjeant in some horse regiment; Mrs. Griffiths ventured
to ask him if he could point out to us Runnymede;
he answered with perfect civility, and pleaded profound
ignorance. We next accosted a young lady with a
pretty and really intelligent-looking face, under a very
pretty bonnet; she was esquired by a smart youth,
apparently all vanity and watch chains, and evidently
the lady's suitor— he was too attentive to be any thing
else — both smilingly assured us that some one had been
hoaxing us, or the young gentleman, who was a scholar,
the damsel blushingly said, must have known! We
abandoned the inquiry in despah, and might have been
induced to consider Magna Charta a romance or a
dead letter, or I know not what, had we not actually
seen the Great Charter in the British Museum, and
had not the locality of Runnymede been afterwards
pointed out to us from the top of the Round Tower at
Windsor. I never had to inquire more than once in
the United States for any spot hallowed by a glorious

AN AMERICAN LADY. 33
deed. But Windsor Castle — it is a fitting residence
for the great head of a great people. I cannot write
architecturally; and if I could, I suppose you, Julia, are
like other young ladies, you would leave the description
unread or unregarded; so look at your engraving of
the regal residence.
A portion of the Castle, the state rooms, are shewn
to risitors. Their smaUness struck both Mrs. Griffiths
and myself. The pictures and mirrors are the great
attractions; some of the tapestries are very fine, and
the Vandykes are perfect. I would fain have lingered
to gaze upon the features of the first Charles Stuart —
sadly mournful, as if the king foreboded his doom.
You remember Cromwell's soliloquy before a portrait
of his iU-fated monarch — " That Flemish painter, that
Antonio Vandyke, what a power he has! Steel may
mutUate, warriors may waste and destroy, still the king
stands uninjured by time; and our grand-children,
whUe they read his history, may look on his image,
and compare the melancholy features with the woful
tale. It was a stern necessity; it was an awful
deed!" Scott was one of the few men to whom the world
might truly have rendered the Eastern salutation:
" May you live a thousand years !"
The associations connected with Windsor are the
great charm — here the Plantagenets rested them from
their wars — here mused the strong-willed Tudor —
the Seventh Harry (the Louis Phihppe of that day)

34 letters from
how to amass wealth for his strangely-charactered son
to dissipate: " This year a reservoir, to keep and spare ;
The next a fountain spouting through his heir.''
And in these rooms communed Mary with her stern
prelates, and Elizabeth with her grave councillors or
handsome favourites, — here the sage Lord Burleigh
shook his reverend head in earnest, and here Sir
Christopher Hatton — I dare say it was so — at any rate
one may assume that
" Full oft within these spacious walls.
When he had fifty winters o'er him,
My grave Lord Keeper led the brawls:
The seal and maces danced before him;"
— and these rooms echoed the pedantry of " the wisest
fool in Christendom," and the revelry of his black-
browed grandson; nor is " the sagest of usurpers"
with his Ironsides around him to be forgotten. After
all there must have been something loveable about those
Stuarts; so strongly were their adherents attached to
them, that even neglect and ingratitude could not
alienate them. I heard a learned Irish lawyer say
that the Stuarts were gentlemen; a title to which none
of their successors could fairiy lay claim, until— I forget
which of the Georges he said.
Of course we had to pay for seeing Windsor Castle.
The public are shewn round in groups; nor Queen's
houses, nor houses dedicated to Him before whom
monarcbs are but dust, are to be seen for nothing in

AN AMERICAN LADY. 35
England; but a more liberal spirit is at work. Hampton
Court Palace is open to the public, and no fee is paid
at the National Gallery or the British Museum.
We saw Prince Albert set forth on horseback. I
consider him eminently handsome, and every one speaks
of his amiability. A gentleman near us pronounced
him the most fortunate youth in existence. "Yes,"
added a minor-theatre-looking personage, " and he is
now, thanks to us, richer than all his tribe." In
England, the first of virtues is wealth. The Americans
may struggle as much or more to attain it, but its
mere possession is less worshipped with us than in
Great Britain.
The view from the Terrace of Windsor Castle is most
beautiful — perfectly Enghsh; lawns and woods and
mansions^ — the highest cultivation — every thing telling
of long-established wealth and peace. We visited the
Virginia Waters; fine, really fine fish-ponds, but they
are called lakes. The Chapel (St. George's) is shewn
on payment of the fees: it is very fine. The banners
of the Knights of the Garter are hung there, and at the
altar is some very fine iron-tracery work by Quintin
Matsys, the blacksmith of Antwerp. A monument to
the Princess Charlotte, the daughter of George the
Fourth, is in St. George's. The soul of the princess is
represented rushing upward to heaven from the dead
body; but a soul in marble looks so very material.
The Park is noble and spacious, but we asked in vain
for Heme's Oak. At Eton is the CoUege founded by

36 LETTERS FROM
Henry the Sixth; great numbers of the chUdren of the
nobles and gentry of the country are educated there—
fine-looking lads they are, and not particularly shy.
We returned as we came. The railway seems to be
converting Windsor (I mean the town) into a London
suburb. Ever, etc.

AN AMERICAN LADY.

LETTER V.

UNTOLD WEALTH OF LONDON  DEPTH OP POVERTY  LONDON BOYS
 DRAPERY ESTABLISHMENTS  GIN PALACES — COLLOQUY.

My dearest Julia, London, — — 1843.
I know no task more difficult than that you
have imposed upon me — to give you a notion of the
streets of London, and of the crowds that fill them, and
of the shops, etc. etc. You always were liberal in your
commissions to your friends. " Can't you describe,"
said old Jacob Tonson to one of his authors, " what 's
just under your eyes?" " No," was the reply. "And
why?" " Because it is just under my eyes, and I look
over it." I leave the application to you.
The handsome shops are much the same in the large
cities here as in America; no doubt there is more pre
tension, and a greater display of wealth in the London
shops — a display fully equal to what one might expect
in the richest city in the world. Untold is London's
wealth, and indescribable its poverty. In a young
country like ours, where nearly every man may daily
labour for his daily bread, we cannot see the debasing
abjectness of the poverty existing here — a poverty that

38

letters from

depresses the mind of man to so grievous a depth that
he has energy left for nothing but to starve.
The squalor and wretchedness in the Five Points at
New York are no doubt bitter bad; but I am weU
assured the suffering there is but in the first degree
of comparison, whilst it is superlative in St. GUes's,
Bethnal Green, and numbers of courts and alleys in
London, " where nameless want retires to die."
It is easy and common to declaim against the vicious
ness of the poor; the self-complacent moralist deplores
it as he writes his quarterly cheque to pay his wine-
merchant; the rich man hugs himself that he is guilty
of no petty larceny, and shudders at the hungry stealer
of a loaf. Englishmen will tolerate any thing but
poverty, and yet they unlock not their hoards to aid
their brethren; they hold forth no helping hand, but
dilate on the laziness of a man to whom employment is
refused, and who dares prefer begging to famishing.
Hunger makes a dog a thief; and it may well make
a poor man reckless — for what worse than hunger, cold,
and contumely, can he suffer in the prison, the hulks,
or the antipodes? I have heard English gentlemen,
whose yearly income-tax would be plethoric wealth to
hundreds of thousands, regret that the poor were ir
reclaimable, and there an end !
"God cannot We," says Blount with tearless eyes,
" The wretch he starves," and piously denies ;
But the good bishop, with a meeker air,
Admits, and leaves them—" Providenc'e's care."

AN AMERICAN LADY. 39
But a truce to this sad theme. "The sun is in the
heaven, and the proud day " invites us into the streets
— you and I have laughed and been annoyed at the
provoking precocity and self-possession of the boys in
New York; but they are openly, uniformly bold: the
London-bred boy (I speak, of course, of the labouring
classes in both countries) is as precocious, but far more
wily and covert; he expends no merriment — proffers no
query that a cross person might answer with a crab-
stick — he must be safe in his sauciness. The streets
are the errand boys' proper theatre. I will give you
a few instances I have heard of, to shew you that our
native city can claim no monopoly in puerile impudence.
A philosophical Frenchman who has travelled much
in Turkey and Persia, but who is by no means Maho
metan in his ablutions, gravely inquired of Mrs. N 
why, as he walked down Parliament-street, he was
asked by seven different urchins, " How he was off for
soap ? "
An African prince could rarely walk forth from his
hotel without being greeted with cries of " Sweep 0 ! "
which, until some goodnatured friend undeceived him,
he thought a mode of respectful salutation proper to
juvenUes, and returned it with a pleased grin ! —
"Ca-a-an you tell me," asked poor stammering Mr.
Douglas Smith, "whi-i-ch is Rich's co-o-oach?" "Yes,
sir," said the street-boy, afflicted also, and no doubt
suddenly, with an inveterate stutter, " its the to-o-op of
the line — a re-e-ed coach, and the do-o-or oipensjist

40 LETTERS FROM
where you get in." Simple Mr. Smith passed on as
well satisfied as if this position of the door were peculiar
to Rich's coach !
A New England gentleman, miraculously thin, though
as huge a feeder as Launcelot Gobbo, used to be
annoyed incessantly by these puerile pests; the conse
quences, he said, at one time threatened to be serious,
affecting his appetite. "No go at the butcher's!" said
one boy. "Chops is riz — chops is!" screamed another.
A third came close to hira, and said softly, and as if
in sympathy, "I say, sir, there's werry cheap oysters
down that 'ere court!" All this, too, to a wealthy
epicure, whose knowledge of literature is confined to
cookery books, and who has visited the capitals of
Europe to test their respective dishes !
The large drapery establishments here are, I suppose,
unrivalled in the whole world; Indian jars, carvings,
gildings, and marbles in the interior, as well as —
"  many a mirror, in which he of Gath,
Goliath, might have seen his giant bulk
Whole, without stooping, towering crest and all;"
lamps, gorgeous as in an Arabian Night's Tale— the
windows of costly plate-glass, sometimes the fuU depth
of the window frame, which is gUded or of highly-
pohshed mahogany. AU without is rich, if not rare;
but I dislike the servihty, in place of civihty, of those
within— their small simpers and smaller talk.
In many of these shops (never caUed stores bere) the
attendants are dressed nearly alike; aU must have white

AN AMERICAN LADY. 41
neckcloths or something of that kind — why not put
them into livery at once? Then their pertinacity to sell
is so tiresome, that I have given up visiting several
shops on that account; the salesmen will shew you new
things, newer than ever was novelty before, and such
bargains! I purchase a few pairs of gloves, and am
leaving the glittering counter, heaped with rich stuff's
in most admired disorder. " Something quite new in
figured satins, ma'am," interposes the shopman. " I
want nothing more at present." "Yes, my lady,
certainly; beautiful sUks, the latest fashion in Paris."
"Nothing more at present, good mor  " "Laces,
your ladyship, the newest patterns," etc. etc. etc., and
so on through the whole stock, if you choose to listen;
they assume that if ever a lady purchase a ribbon, she
must of necessity want a new shawl !
This teasing does not exist, I think, except among the
drapers; the booksellers, jewellers, upholsterers, etc. do
not proceed in like manner — one may buy a watch-key
without being importuned to become the envied mis
tress of an unrivaUed musical clock; the upholsterer
who sells you a music-stool, does not intimate his
persuasion that it is incumbent upon you to purchase a
card-table as well. Mrs. TroUope's last novel is sold
without the bookseller pressing upon the purchaser
the necessity of buying a French or English Dictionary.
Lady Morgan seems Mrs. TroUope's model for French
— her English is her own.
There is something effeminate, I think, in there being
c 2

42 LETTERS FROM
SO many young men employed in these drapery maga
zines, among muslins and laces and ribbons — some
thing indelicate too, if I could detail to you all the
articles they sell, and recommend to ladies.
The places next in splendour to the drapers, are the
gin stores. Although spirituous liquors are so much
cheaper with us, I believe the places where they are
sold are as numerous in London; — over the door is
generally a huge larap; a sign to the customers, and
the slaves of the lamp are very, very many in London.
The gas is in a wreath, or disposed in some fanciful
way or other; they are called gin-palaces — the casks
containing the spirits are painted, and labeled "Old
Tom," "The Rose of Life," "Butter Gin," "Cream
o' the VaUey," "Mountain Dew," etc. etc. Cockneys so
dearly love the rural, that they must thus libel roses
and dews, they must drink pastorally !
I can easUy conceive the policy which has caused the
proprietors of these places to make them so superb:
the gorgeous fittings are the poor man's whilst he is
among them; they give him a brief importance; he can
command the temporary enjoyment of luxuries, and
loves to command it.
jMcthinks I see you, 0 very arch Julia, open your
eyes and then your mouth-your eyes with wonder,
that I describe these things with the familiarity of an
eye-witness, and your mouth with laughter, that my
curiosity (how often have you twitted me with it, mis
chievous that you are) had carried me such extra-

AN AMERICAN LADY. 43
ordinary lengths, that it had carried me into a retail
bar! But my introduction to tbe internal worship of
this great spirit — this tyo-powerful spirit of strong
drink, was accidental. The other evening, Mr. and Mrs.
Wilderton and I were obliged to take shelter in one in
O.xford-street, to avoid an over-driven and maddened
ox. I am not a temperance devotee; but the con
templation of these painted sepulchres, where the hopes
of the poor man are so often buried, is enough to tea-
totalize me; to stagger my behef in the song, Barry
Cornwall's I believe, " Bad are the times,
And bad the rhymes.
That scorn old wine."
And mine, you know, is a very disinterested creed, as I
rarely taste wine.
Three poor women of the working class entered this
gin-palace whilst we waited. " Please miss," said one to
the smartly ringed and ringleted barmaid, " a quarten
of the right sort, and a three-out." The spirit was
supplied, and gulped approvingly. " Money never was
so dull," said the paymistress of the trio; "I can get
none, and have been forced to put my bed up my
uncle's flue." The hearers were expressing their com
miseration of this state of finances, when a drunken
butcher rushed into the place, and we thought it better
to face the furious brute than the imbruted man, and
so left.
I requested Mr. Wilderton to translate me the poor

44 LETTERS FROM
woraan's speech into English, " It is Enghsh," laughed
he. " Translate it into American then." "The three-
out glass," he explained, " is one that contains a third
of the measure purchased, so that the quarter of a pint
fills out three glasses; the uncle's flue, which you seem
to think is some chimney in which the untidy woman
had concealed her bed, is the pawnbroker's warehouse
— the poor call the pawnbroker their uncle." God pity
them, thought I, if they h^ve no better kinsman.
British travellers are ingenious in detecting and col
lecting Americanisms; they are in nineteen cases out
of twenty " genuine as imported," and they are im
ported from the old country. I suppose we have " my
uncle " and his " flue " in America by this time.
The innkeepers here also advertise their cheap wines
" genuine as imported ;" they avoid a direct falsehood
by never stating from whence they have imported them,
Ever, etc.

AN AMERICAN LADY. 45

LETTER VL

CRAFT OF EOOK-MAKING — CHARITY AND LEATHER EREECHES-
ST. Paul's as a theatre — charity dinner — workhouse-
NEWGATE  felons WHO ARE ' COULEUR DE ROSE.'

My DEAREST Julia,
Mr. Dickens has devoted thirty-five pages
to an account of a blind and deaf and dumb girl, Laura
Bridgman, and thirteen to Oliver Caswell, a boy almost
simUarly afflicted. The cases are undoubtedly well
worthy of record, interesting ahke to the metaphysician
and phUanthropist, and admirably told, whilst the
institution itself is of tbe noblest in the world; and to
praise the superintendent. Dr. Howe, would be only to
echo the general voice of America, and echoes are
sometimes wearisome; but one is driven to remark the
peculiarity of a work that devotes forty-eight pages to
these cases, and not so many lines to important national
subjects. Did you ever hear of a craft called book- making?
A writer undertakes to enlighten the world on a certain
subject, but his stock of light falls short, and he is fain to
supply its place with any indistinct glimmering, in order

46 letters from
to complete his task somehow or other; he even plants
a sorry twinkling taper in an out-office, and hopes that
it may pass for an illumination of the whole premises!
To drop metaphor — when an author, whose works are
sure to sell, has to write a book in a given time, and
with a mind unoppressed with information on the
weightier raatters .of his theme, he introduces a few
episodes, as necessary to illustrate his subject as a
painted flag is to navigate a man-of-war; and thus
helped, the printer has matter enough, and the public
are satisfied that the volumes have a guinea-sized look
with them. It may be true that little information is
conveyed to the reader — but what then ? Was not the
book written by the famous Quizzicus ? Does not the
name of the author atone for the deficiencies of the
volumes ? they, like rank in the Scottish song, are
" but the guinea's stamp,
The man's the gowd for a' that."
The answer Hamlet gave the courtier should be these
writers' motto, " What shall we say, my lord?"
" A.ny thing, but to the purpose."
UntU I had been some time in England, I did not
know what abundant reason an American had to be
proud of the institutions of his country. I have been
listened to with surprise when I have told ot free
establishments, such as the Latin Grammar School at
Boston, where the son of a working raechanic once
obtained Franklin's medal, the next competitor being

AN AMERICAN LADY. 47
the son of the President of the United States (I find,
par parenthese, " John Tyler " included in an English
Almanac in a list of the sovereigns of Europe'). In
Great Britain the children of the poor sometimes rise
to eminence, but the road is not smoothed to them as
with us, — so rugged is it often found that many an
ardent spirit has fretted its o'er-informed tenement of
clay unto the death, in vain struggles to reach the goal.
Then as to education — but of that hereafter.
Mr. Dickens is quite right in intimating that "charity
and leather breeches are inseparable companions " in
this country. Charity may not be " hideous in a garb
like this," but it tells of the hatefulness of caste; the
inmates of the charitable institutions in Great Britain
are made to feel that they are Pariahs— the bread they
eat is fuU of the bitterness of dependence; the child
of the wealthy shopkeeper has a fertile source of amuse
ment in the gi'otesque attire of the poor charity-boy,
whether it be distinguished as Mr. Dickens has de
scribed it, or by large buttons, or by its coarseness, or
merely because it is the dress least adapted to the
chmate. The charity-girls (so they are always called)
wear generaUy a dark stuff frock, a white apron, and a
white cap, sometimes with an attempt at a frill to it ;
the children every Sunday are paraded to and from
church, they occupy places set apart for them, — and
the vest of many a purse-proud citizen in the sacred
walls, sweUs with pride at this ostensible proof of his
philanthropy. Were it not for the scena — the effect —

48 LETTERS FROM
the children might have died untaught and on unclean
straw, for anything he cared about them; but there
they are, and there is his name printed at full length in
the list of subscribers, that the world may know how
he feels for the poor. And after his plenteous dinner on
Sundays (far beyond Sir Balaam's, even with the added
pudding) he expatiates to his family on the excellence
of a feeling heart and a judicious subscription, denies
his servants leave to go forth and breathe fresh air;
falls asleep in his easy chair, and dreams he is another
Howard ; for baring visited St. Paul's, he knows there
,was a Howard, because he has seen his statue, and has
learned that Howard also was a philanthropist,
As I have raentioned St. Paul's, and am on the
subject of charities, I may as well tell you that in
St. Paul's Cathedral every May are two Musical Fes
tivals, the profits of which go to charities in aid of the
Sons of the Clergy (of course the destitute clergy), and
of the parochial schools. The interior of the Cathedral
is staUed and gaUeried; the music is surpassingly fine;
the ladies exquisitely beautiful in their newest spring
fashions, and the object praiseworthy; but why not
have the performance in a theatre? The introductory
service is so little cared for, that were there only that,
there would only be a pew fuU of congregation; so I
think they might "sound the loud timbrel" more appro
priately in a playhouse, for it is boxed and galleried
ready, and is built for purposes of pageantry and parade.
The Cathedral would not then be desecrated with so

AN AMEKICAN LADY. 49
much profane carpentery and upholstery; nor need
Divine service be suspended for a fortnight, that the
workman's hammer may not sound responsive to the
clergyman's prayer, iloney no doubt is thus made in
the House of God; but of old the money-changers were
driven from the Temple — the English put such odd
constructions on Holy Writ.
The friends and supporters of many of the London
charities eat an annual dinner together, and gravely
advertise it, as for the benefit of the charity! There are
the patron, and the presidents, and the vice-presidents,
and the stewards, and I know not what functionaries
beside. Many are the speeches; great is the laudation;
you would believe, to hsten to them, that tbe company
formed a constellation of all the virtues — a galaxy of
perfectibihties. I was once present at a scene of this
kind: Mrs.  , the banker's lady, persuaded me to
accompany her, promising me an intellectual treat ! A
few ladies were admitted by sufferance into a small
gallery in the large room in the City of London Tavern
— I knew httle of London then, or I would have
dechned this offer.
The dinner tickets were a guinea each; a civic dig
nitary was in the chair, and there was' a sprinkling of
members of parliament; a man of excellent lungs stood
near the chairman, to give out the toasts and direct
the cheering, to play first shout — "Take the time
from me, gentlemen!" he kept saying, "Hip, hip,
hu-u-rah!" Clattered the windows and danced the

50 LETTERS FROM
glasses: and I asked my conductress if it would not
have been better if the two or three hundred guineas
expended in the banquet had gone to augment the
funds of the charity, and these vehemently-yeUing
gentlemen had dined quietly at home? I received no
answer. I had not been long in the gallery before I became
convinced how fallaciously the poet wrote —
"Brisk as the wit it gives, the gay Champagne;"
for it gave these substantial citizens no wit whatever.
I expected an animated comedy — it was a dull farce,
There were some professional singers present — they let
themselves out at so much per head per night. Some
of the songs were said to be comic — they were all
common-place; the more suitable I suppose to the occa
sion, being easily understood.
There can be no reasonable, or indeed possible, ob
jection why two or three hundred fellow-citizens should
not dine together in public, if it so please them — but
why can it not be done unless in the name of a charity?
How these Pharisaic Christians (if I may so speak)
must laugh at the simple ones, the soft ones (I believe
that is the word) who " do good by stealth, and blush
to find it fame;"— the good they do is blazoned to the
world; there must be no stealth about their charities;
and as for blushes— such persons may redden, they
never blush. The reports of their doings in the public
journals are, with these men, the very moral of the tale.
Robespierre described himself as " I'esclave de la

AN AMERICAN LADY. 51
liberte;" and I know one American, at least, whom
the designation suits (the Frenchman should have said
"letyran," not "I'esclave"). Your thriving Enghsh
man is a slave to aristocratic distinctions; and some
times at these charity dinners he is nodded to by " his
Grace," perhaps " my Lord" condescends to take wine
with him, and he at once sees the excellence of having
a class privileged because rocked in coroneted cradles,
and learns to despise the simplicity of a republic. I
believe, however, that the real aristocracy in their select
circles amuse themselves no little at the expense of
those bourgeois gentilhommes — as supple where rank is
concerned, if not as simple, as Mons. Jourdain, when
that worthy worshipper of the Great believed he was
marrying his daughter to the son of the Grand Turk.
From the charity-school to the workhouse is no
violent digression. You are familiar enough with
English matters to know of what description are the
houses that " hold the parish poor." A great change
has taken place in the discipline of those establish
ments. I hope Crabbe's account is of an altogether
bygone thing. These places were called workhouses,
I presume, because in a great many of them no work
was ever done — a system of nomenclature not uncom
mon in England.
I went through the female wards of one of the large
Metropolitan workhouses (St. Pancras). There is little
to describe. Perfect cleanliness and order prevailed
throughout; the diet is no doubt better than many a

52 LETTERS FROM
poor man can place before his family— boiled meat
three days a week; but over all there is such an
appearance of constraint. The girls said they were
happy, because the question was asked before one of
the matrons of the institution, and so they knew it
must be answered. I think we were told there were
above a thousand souls, men, women, and children, in
the St. Pancras Workhouse — the population of a small
town! I have looked through Newgate too, massive Newgate.
Barnaby Rudge has made us familiar with the riots of
1780, when a No-Popery mob (it should be called a
"No-Religion" one) burnt this, his Majesty's gaol, and
set free his prisoners. I do not remember having read
a detailed historical account of these fires, robberies,
and depredations. Is it not Johnson who teUs how, as
he passed along the street where Newgate stands— the
Old Bailey — he saw the people plundering the Sessions
House deliberately and undisturbed? "Such," says
he, " is the cowardice of a commercial place." He
might have added— in England. Mr. and Mrs. N,
had obtained orders to be shewn over Newgate, and
I accompanied them. The prison is, I doubt not, like
prisons with us, only differing in its discipline. " In
an American state prison," says Mr. Dickens, "I found
it difficult at first to persuade myself I was reaUy in a
jaU." This is a difficulty which does not exist in England.
A woman who looked like a gaoleress conducted us
over the female wards. We might question the prisoners

AN AMERICAN LADY. 53
if we pleased, but did not follow Mr. Dickens's example.
I have no fondness for the biography, least of all for
the autobiography, of thieves and pickpockets. A rosy
and somewhat jocular turnkey was our guide over the
other parts. The little boys fell into line at the turn
key's bidding, "as if," Mr. N. said, "they were play
ing at soldiers." There they stood to be questioned,
and any little shame left drilled out of them. Mr. N.
did ask a few questions of some mere children, sent to
Newgate to await their trials for stealing pence and
suchlike. " Well, and what are you in for ?" "Rob
bing the tiU, sir." "And you?" "Prigging a wipe,"
(which being interpreted is stealing a pocket-handker
chief). "This very httle fellow," said the turnkey,
" is in for steahng seven cigars." " Only six," coolly
said the lad in correction. "And you?" "Please,
sir, I was sent on an errand with a bob, and lost
myself, and was taken bad and forced to spend it in
grub and heavy" (meat and beer — a bob is evidently
some coin).
The officers, by loopholes ingeniously contrived in the
walls, can see over the whole prison, themselves unseen
the while. We were shewn the Chapel, where the
condemned sermons are preached; also casts from the
heads of the most eminent murderers, and very heavy
irons worn by Messrs. Sheppard and Turpin, much-
admired housebreakers and highwaymen of old, and,
according to Mr. Harrison Ainsworth, men of gentle
manly demeanour, considerable acquirements, and no

04 LETTERS FROM
little amiability. A dramatised Jack Sheppard was a
few seasons back the delight of numerous audiences
in the London theatres; the mirror was held up to
thievery, which was rapturously applauded, and Jack
was highly popular. The air of one of the songs was
heard in every corner of every street, on hand-organs
and fiddles and hurdy-gurdies, and all manner of music.
The burthen is, "Nix my dolly pals, fake away!"
What it means I cannot even guess. How properly
raay the British criticise our peculiarities of expression;
their own "well of English" being undefiled with the
dirtiness of vulgarity or blackguardism. Ever, etc.

AN AMERICAN LADY. 55

LETTER VII.

a LONDON STROLL  MR. DICKENS S GOOD FORTUNE IN PIGS —
LONDON STREETS AND PECULIARITIES  ST. PAUl's  HARDNESS
OF ALLEGORY IN THE MARBLE MONUMENTS  RELIGIO LOCI 
BANK OF ENGLAND — RICH AND RUDE  GOLD AND OPIUM  THE
TOWER — HARLEQUINADE OF STREETS — THAMES TUNNEL — PRE
SUMPTUOUS UNDERTAKING.

Dearest Julia, London,  1843.
I am right glad you have been so gay in New
York, and going to be so again; but "leave the gay,
the festive scene," and rove with me — certainly not
" through forest green," but amid London sights.
Mr. Dickens, with two policemen, his guides and
guardians, made a pilgrimage into the Five Points at
New York, and has the merit of discovering that there
were poverty and rice, and fever, and a dancing negro,
in the purlieus of a great city. On Sunday nights I
trust that even in the Five Points there are no dancings;
in London, in or near a horrid place called Field Lane,
where no lady can possibly venture, I am well assured
there are. London boasts of its pohce, as well as of
the observance of the.Lord's-day.
Another thing Mr. Dickens was fortunate in meeting

56 letters from
in America — pigs. One would think from the two
pages and a half he gives to the subject, that pigs were
proper to Broadway ! We have them again at Louis
ville—two pages of pigs, and encounter them moreover
as we travel with him from Columbus to Sandusky,
and from New York to Lebanon. One might really
think that he was describing Ireland, where the pig,
as that amiable gourmand Mr. ,  said of his gout,
is " a sad necessity of life."
But tbe carriage with my friendly cicerones is wait
ing at the door of my lodgings, and rapidly it rolls
along PiccadiUy and down the Haymarket, and past
a statue with a pig-taU, erected in honour of George
the Third (the sculptor must have owed his Majesty a
grudge), and past the rauch-quizzed National Gallery,
and the unfinished monument to Nelson, which rises as
slowly as they say merit does; and the equestrian statue
of King Charles at Charing-Cross, beginning to look
little, as kings will sometimes, amid the buUdings now
surrounding him; and the Duke of Northumberland's
house vrith a stone lion at the top; and here is the
Strand with its smooth wooden pavement, so pleasantly
un-noisy. Things are reversed in London now; the
houses used to be wooden and the streets stone— now
the houses are brick and the streets timber. And ever
and anon are stoppages and long gatherings of vehicles
until way is made; and huge coal-wagons, with their
four, five, or six heavy horses, sleek and shapeless,
emerging from the lanes and alleys that lead from the

AN AMERICAN LADS. 57
wharfs by the river side — the river running in a line
with the Strand; and to the left is Exeter Hall, famed
for oratory of much dross and some gold; and to the
right Somerset House, full of government offices, where,
from ten to foui', a great many clerks laboriously transact
pubhc business, aud write letters to their private friends,
and read the papers, and discuss the state of parties,
pohtical or convivial, and the merits of their respective
luncheons; and we pass two fine churches, St. Mary's
and St. Clement's Danes; and here is Temple Bar, a
heavy stone arch, the boundary hne of London and
Westminster, where the heads of traitors (as the con
querors always called them) were exposed on spikes of
old; exploded customs of a more barbarous age — no
heads are exposed now — that is, without their bodies;
no felon is hung in chains as a terror to evil doers,
which it was not; spectacles these, " hke the lost
Pleiad, seen no more below," (would not " above" be
more correct, of a missing star?) And along Fleet-
street- to the right, is the Temple, the Knights Templars
having given place (vast change!) to a body of lawyers;
the corslet has yielded to the gown — the helmet to the
wig! And up Ludgate-hill, famous for its shops, and
into St. Paul's Churchyard, and lo ! the noble Cathedral.
We were just behind the gratuitous hours, 9 to 11 a.m.
and 3 to 4 p.m., so we paid our twopences and entered.
It is the most august of Christian temples which I have
seen in any country — remember I have not been in
Italy— but the interior, even with its piUars and
D

58 LETTERS FROM
monuments, looks — oh ! so cold. The monuments are
chiefly to naval and railitary heroes (is it right to
monumentalise deeds of blood in the House of Peace?)
and I cannot but think there are far too many
Britannias and Fames, and Victories and hons. A lady
had need be well versed in allegory to understand what
she sees; I confess I was puzzled; but still the rehgion
of the place impresses itself upon one's feelings— stand
ing in the midst of Wren's glorious work, with far
resounding aisles and memorials to the unforgotten
dead around, what can one feel but an elevation of soul
— a forgetfulness of the soil and stain of the world?
We did not visit the Whispering Gallery, nor the Ball,
nor other places shewn separately, and to be separately
paid for. It seems so strange that the British should
have to hay the right of entering these buUdings. If
it be proper that they should be entered at all by the
merely curious, it must be as proper that they should
be open to the decent poor man who cannot spare two
pence, as to the irreligious rich one, who is hardly
conscious so smaU a sum exists, — open to Lazarus as
to Dives.
In writing to an American lady (and mch a lady) it
is not necessary to be so precise as it would be to a
native of another country; I mean in descriptions. It
is not necessary to say that St. Paul's is Grecian, and
Westminster Abbey Gothic, and so on. Community of
language and descent gives the American to understsmd
very brief hints relative to the old country. As to

AN AMERIC VN LADY. 59
statistics, I hate them worse than Dr. Beattie did the
shriU voice of Chanticleer. I think they are as unsuit
able to a lady's letter as a pen behind her ear would be
to a ball-dress. Expect no accounts of revenues and
emoluments from me; how this church is most lavishly
endowed, and this not endowed at all; the one in all
probability being ancient, when Englishmen did endow
their churches — the other modern, when they don't.
Among the Canons Residentiary of St. Paul's is
the wittiest man in England, as I at least account the
Rev. Sydney Smith, also the learned classic. Dr. Tate.
The Deanery is generaUy given to enrich some poor, or
rather some poorer Bishopric. There is service daUy
in the Cathedral; but I need hardly detail all this to
one, herself a member of the Episcopal Church of
America. From St. Paul's we proceeded down Cheapside (per
haps the busiest thoroughfare in London), and the
GuUdhaU terminates a short street to the left; in its
large hall are a few monuments, and the hideous figures
of Gog and Magog; the election and Corporation
meetings are held here; the eloquence heard in the
Courts of Aldermen and Common Council is not con
sidered of a high order : and at the foot of Cheapside
stands the Mansion-house, the official abode of the
Lord Mayor — ^it is squab and square, as beseems a civic
mansion. It had been cleaned and scraped not very
long before, and looks, not clean, but pretending clean
liness. I ought to have told you how dingy nearly all

60 LETTERS FROM
the public buildings in London are. St. Paul's in
some parts of its exterior being one soot. A httle
beyond the Mansion House is the Bank of England.
We walked in and through and about a great many
offices, no guide or introduction being necessary.
Sovereigns were flung about as indifferently as if they
were pebbles; indeed they are as valueless to the clerks
and assistants — being 'none of theirs. The Bank of
England deals in monies of all kinds, as other traders
deal in their respective wares. A guard of soldiers is
constantly in the Bank, and at every turn you meet a
porter or some one in the Bank hvery — for nearly all
the public bodies here must have their servants in
livery. Aristocracy, especially in its vanities and vices,
is aped even unto the twentieth remove. I exchanged
a 20/. note for sovereigns, having to write my name and
address on its front; a pompous-looking personage in
spectacles, and sitting with others in a sort of cage,
looked over a long list of something or other, then
tore a piece off the note, and after I was answered in
monosyUables, and stared at as if I was suspected of
having stolen the paper, the sovereigns were flung
toward me; some of them, by the way, were returned
to me afterwards, being light weight.
If the mind is directed heaven-ward in St. Paul's,
Mammon asserts his full right here— for here is the
Stock Exchange on one side, and tbe new Royal
Exchange, in course of erection, on the other; here are
the devout, unscrupulous, untiring worshippers of their

AN AMERICAN LADY. 61
one God, whose name is Gold! Here are the origi
nators of countiess schemes, the speculators in every
thing and every place — miners in IMexico and Peru,
land-agents in Australia, fishers in the far Pacific,
growers of tropical produce, exporters of opium. If a
sign-board with a distich were necessary to indicate
their caUing, as used to be the case in many parts once,
I would recommend to the highly respectable merchants
— the dealers in wholesale opium — a line or two from
Signor Romeo, tolerably applicable, when Mantua is
transposed into China, and a single word changed.
Any little novelty in the way of a death's-head would
serve for a sign — here 's the distich —
" And if a man did need a poison now
Whose sale is certain death in China,
Here lives a catifi'-wretch will sell it him.''
The blank verse does rather halt for it, n' importe.
A needy druggist is accounted an infamous fellow, and
wUl be punished if he sell a desperate wretch a phial
of laudanum; but it is by no means accounted in
famous — infamous! how can an English merchant with
an immense capital do anything infamous ? — it is only
mercantile, to sell opium for poisoning purposes by the
ship-load : there is an aristocracy, you see, even in
crime, and the English so love all kinds of aristocracy;
to poison an individual is Newgate and the gallows —
to poison a distant province is a right and a privilege
which WAR must vindicate.
After the Bank, the question was where to go next.

62 LETTERS FROM
As we were so far eastward, it was expedient to visit an
Eastern shrine. The Tower was suggested, and the
Thames Tunnel. Most people here and many in
America are familiar with the list of show things in the
Tower; your book- wisdom, I will praise it highly, is
almost equal to your beauty, so I need not describe the
fine collection of armour, and will spare you the sparkle
of the crown jewels, and the horror of the Spanish
thumb-screws. The loss of more than 100,000 stand
of arms by tbe late fire was taken as coolly by the
people as if they had been pop-guns, I could say
much, but perhaps nothing new about the Tower, as
it was and as it is, fortress, palace, prison, show-box.
I could dilate upon Anne Boleyn and Jane Grey, and the
victims of the " forty-five," and the traitor's gate. An
old country has much to interest.
We had just time and daylight for the Thames
Tunnel. Boston reminded Boz of a pantomime (the
Bostonians wUl feel flattered). Harlequin and Columbine
lodging at a very small clockmaker's. I never knew
before that Harlequin or Columbine lodged anywhere,
being very go-a-head personages, and always abroad.
But the rapid changes in London reminded me of the
transformations in a pantomime, and this struck me
forcibly as we went to the Tunnel, as well as on many
other excursions: a handsome street is suddenly re
placed by a squalid lane; a trim new square, neigh
boured by a nondescript patch, neither field, brick-
kUn, nor waste ground; a flaunting tavern alongside a

AN AMERICAN LADY. 63
burial-ground (truly, from grave to gay), aud these
changes are so incessant as to be hardly noticed.
A shilling each was paid to see the Tunnel — it is now
opened as a thoroughfare for foot passengers, at a toll
of a penny. We descended huge stairs, amid the
clatter of vast machinery, and in an indistinct light
which flung a melo-dramatic horror over the scene;
down, and down, and down, and at last we stand within
the Tunneh Really, it is marvellous — a long covered
way of sohd stone, arched something like the cloisters
in old abbeys (you have a painting of one at Fountains'
Abbey in Yorkshire) with the waUs inclining slantwise,
the better I suppose to resist the incumbent weight of
water; a long line of gas-lamps hghts it; and so you
walk from Surrey to Middlesex under the river ! There
was a sound of rushing waters, from what source I
hardly know, and we stood in the middle and coolly
talked of an American liner, or some vessel from the
uttermost ends of the earth, passing, at that very
moment perhaps, over our heads ! A box was placed to
receive the contributions of the charitable toward the
support of those maimed during the progress of the
work. Several lives were lost by the irruption of the
river, more than once; and now that the work is com
plete, it is considered more as a show-place than of
practical utUity. As a remunerating commercial specu
lation or investment, it is among the worst England
or America know. Mr. N. even pronounced it "a
bubble;" improperly, I afterwards learned, for no one

64 LETTERS FROM
can accuse the originators of any thing but fair deahng;
the Iron Duke himself is said to be a considerable
shareholder. Mr. N  must have been wrong, there
fore, though he quoted Banquo to back him : ,
" The earth hath bubbles as the water hath.
And this is of them."
Whether the Tunnel be subject to the spirit of earth or
water is matter of debate. You walk on what seems
terra firma, but is beneath the deep water; the Gnomes
of the interior earth are perhaps the ruhng spirits. I
trust they will be friendly to man.
I am told that several very scrupulous persons con
demned the work as too presumptuous, too audacious
for man to undertake. If it be proper to build or swing
a bridge over a stream, why not to dig a way under
neath it? I never heard that these gentlemen objected
to cross a bridge, unless perhaps a toll one; but you
• are wearied; — and so ara I. Adieu, ever, etc.

AN AMERICAN LADY. 65

LETTER VIII.

ENGLISH IGNORANCE ABOUT AMERICA  UN-READING BUT PRACTICAL
MEN — IMP-ARTIALITY OF ENGLISH IGNORANCE  DISREGARD OF
ANTIQUITIES OR SACRED PLACES  A FIRE  PASTORAL INCEN
DIARISM.

Mt Dearest Julia, London,  1843.
Truly one ought to have a temper as imper
turbable as Frankhn's (which I need hardly tell you I
have not) to hear patiently the absurd remarks the
British make upon the United States. I could not
have believed such ignorance existed: it must be that
generally weU-informed men are less common in this
country than at home. Here are hundreds of thou
sands, with ample means and leisure, whose reading is
confined to the newspapers; but let me correct the
broad assertion, I ought to have said to certain por
tions of certain newspapers. Yet one of this class will
deliver his judgment upon America in a manner which
shews he considers that what he says is decisive; there
is or should be no appeal, — he has spoken.
Self-conceit is more meat and drink to these English
men, than " to see a clown " was to Touchstone; they
d2

66 letters from
have a vague notion about America, aud Indians, and
General Washington, and there being neither king nor
lords, and the storming of Quebec, and the burning of
the Caroline, and the loss of the President ! But as to
the vast resources of our country, the nature of her
laws and institutions, of her cities rising amid primeval
forests, of the capabilities of her rivers and bays, of the
love of freedom in her children; which love, men say, is
the parent of all the best virtues that can adorn a state
— of these things they know nothing.
Talk to one of these persons about the cotton grown
in the Southern states, and he will immediately speak
of Manchester, where he has a cousin worth a hundred
thousand pounds (not dollars, mind), a manufacturer
driving a roaring trade (roaring enough, if the clatter
of a thousand wheels can effect it); mention one of
those matchless prairies in the far West (a noble sight,
though Boz was disappointed); and my gentlemaUj as
soon as he is made to understand what a prairie is,
turns the conversation to Salisbury Plain, or the moors
of Scotland!
These gentry generally are, or have been, connected
with commercial pursuits, and plume themselves that
they are not reading but practical men. I admit they
are impartial in their ignorance, knowing as little of
the past history of their own country as of the present
state of ours; they believe, for they have seen the post
that commemorates it, that a battle was fought long
ago at Barnet; that Richard the Third was as hunch-

AN AMERICAN LADY. 67
backed as Punch, and was slain by the Eai-l of Rich
mond's own hand, for they have seen the play; — that
Oliver Cromwell cannonaded most of the castles and
abbeys in England, leaving them in ruins, which are
to be seen to this day — they bave even been shewn or
told ofthe ridges where his artillery was planted; their
faith in the ballad of Chevy Chace being a true history,
and that Widdrington fought on his stumps, is never
to be shaken, for they were taught parts of it when
boys; to descend to later times and more familiar
characters — if Burns or Sheridan are mentioned, they
are oracular on the devotion to the wine-cup manifested
by both, and more than hint at their own superiority !
That the Scottish bard and tbe Irish orator were boon-
companions, is nearly aU these Sir Oracles know about
them: such men love to dilate on the infirmities of
genius as far as their knowledge of them extends, for
" FoUy loves the martyrdom of fame."
— I once 'heard a man of this stamp say it was well
known that Junius was a Lord Mayor of London. I
was not at aU surprised at the statement, but I was^
that the gentleman knew there had been a Junius at
aU! In the learned professions undoubtedly are very
many men of vast literary attainments, and what is
more, they make no display; but this very forbearance
encourages the ignorant man to prate of his ignorance.
Another discreditable feeling is rife in England gene
raUy, perhaps, but most assuredly and especially in

68 letters FROM
London; the ir-reverence for places that have been the
scenes of great events, or for houses, the abodes of men
who have left an undying name. Had Shakspeare's
house been in London instead of Stratford, it might
long since have been pulled down to give place to
some petty improvement; the conqueror of old —
" bid spare
The house of Pindarus, when temple and tower
Went to the ground."
But the caUousness of the Englishman bids spare no
place. London has the appearance of any thing rather than
an old city — it looks modern enough for an American
one; there are not many places to call forth veneration,
or awaken historical associations of a remote era; West
minster Abbey and Hall, the Tower, Lambeth Palace,
St. Saviour's Church in Southwark, the Temple Church,
must be nearly all. Part of this is no doubt owing to
the Great Fire in 1666, but far more to later inno
vations. I am aware that it is sometimes impossible to
preserve the relics of other ages, but the English do
not care whether they are preserved or not. Whether
a house was occupied by John Milton or John Doe, is
to them a matter of perfect indifference. A far better
feeling prevaUs in Scotland; which the English laugh at,
and impute to the inhabitants of Northern Britain as
a fault, calling it nationality! Had these people dwelt
in Rome for the last three centuries, how they would
"have dealt upon the seven-hiU'd city's pride." What

AN AMERICAN LADY. 69
havoc they would have cried as they let slip the dogs of
improvement ! Woe to the Coliseum's might ! Woe to
the Arches and the Temples! The Lunatic Asylums
in every country in Em'ope would have been crowded
with antiquaries driven mad. The world may rejoice
the modern Romans are not as the English.
Do not suppose these continuaUy-occurring improve
ments have made London at all approach the character
Boz gives PhUadelphia, "distractingly regular;" but it is
sufficiently so for every purpose of convenience or even
beauty. Fires, alas ! give us too many opportunities to build
new buildings in New York. They are far less frequent
in London. In the winter when I was on a visit at
Mr. D.'s, we were aroused by the alarm of fire early
one morning; it was on the opposite side of the street.
How the crowd enjoyed it, how they speculated on the
probabUity of the next house, and the next adding
to the blaze. When the flames illumined the street,
the upturned countenances shewed horribly grim. I
saw one old crone as snow began to fall put up her
umbreUa for shelter, that she might enjoy the sight
comfortably; the wind conveyed some of the hot ashes
to the expanded gingham and ignited it, the hapless
woman seemed to think it a hard fortune that she
must be exposed to one of the antagonist elements.
The firemen succeeded in getting the fire under, but
not untU it had destroyed two houses; these men form
a brigade, wear a suitable dress, and act under the

70 LETTERS FROM
orders of superintendents ; their activity was worthy of
all praise, and on many accounts I think such a body
would be valuable in New York, however well it may
sound that help is given in a public calamity of so
fearful a nature by the exertions of the citizens and not
of hirelings.
Mr. Dickens says that sometimes fires are "not
wholly accidental in New York;" his countrymen also
can speculate in arson, and we have had nothing at
home so horrible as the incendiary fires in the rural
districts of England. The agricultural population is
often pronounced the healthiest in Great Britain; but
these fires shew a sad demoralization among them.
Many an honest farmer has retired to rest and had
his slumbers broken, not by "the cock's shrUl clarion
or the echoing horn," but by the red glare of his
burning corn-ricks. Cowper bewailed the decay of
rural virtues and manners in his day — what would he
have said now ! The hinds even called science to their
aid, and corn and hay-stacks have been ignited by
chemical appliances — most horrible !
I cannofbut marvel at the apathy with which aU these
symptoms are regarded, men seem to think far more
of the punishment of the criminal than the prevention
of the crime. The wealthy Londoner reads of blazing
farm-yards, of shrieking horses dragged from their
stalls, and cattle so scorched that in mercy they were
kiUed; but as the danger is not at his very door, he
cares as little about it as if it had been a part of the

AN AMERICAN LADY. 71
Foreign intelligence" in his newspaper. His self-
Duceit encases him like armour, rendering him in-
alnerable to all attacks of pity; he cannot conceive
ny one daring enough to injure his property, so coolly
;irs his fire, wondering if the farmer fellow will be
lined, or which of the insurance offices will suffer!
.fter-historians may note, aud account for this savage
ovelty in crime — crime that can by no possibility
rofit its perpetrator, crime originated by revenge alone
-pastoral revenge too — sad and strange anomaly ! I
m told there are several amateurs in fires in London,
rho always attend if they possibly can, to criticise the
xhibitions !
Do you know, Julia, I think I have better oppor-
iinities to observe the English as they are, than almost
ny other American, for my European education and
ly abode in this country have rendered me to all
ppearance insular, but my heart and aspirations are
U American.
One of my solicitors, like Tom Clarke in the story,
•a young feUow whose goodness of heart even the
xercise of his profession had not been able to corrupt,"
esterday assured me that I could not be taken for
nything but an Enghsh lady. He intended it for a
omphment, and his pretty (but always ill-dressed)
?ife simpered affirmatively. I admire Mr. N. in his
wn home, when he relaxes from his legal toils and
hines as a punster — he even jokes over bis rubber at
i^hist, and could not enjoy his wine unseasoned with

72 letters from
a jest. An excellent maker and expounder of conun
drums, toward which accomplishment he says the study
of the law is conducive, it being one huge puzzle !— to
crown all, he is a most worthy and prosperous gentle
man. Boz tells of "justice retired from business for want
of customers " in America; this is not likely to occur,
Mr. N. says, in England, and indeed they are con
tinually creating new courts and new magistrates-
new schools in my poor raind would be a vriser and
better procedure. Cincinnati furnishes most honour
able example, where " no person's child can by possi
bility want the means of education." Mr. Dickens
should school his countrymen on this head : he advises
tbe Americans to abolish slavery, let hira tell the
English to expel ignorance. Adieu, ever, etc.

AN AMERICAN LADY. 73

LETTER IX.

iTMINSTER ABBEY — NOT SAFE TO ADMIT THE PUBLIC  MONU-
lENTS AND TOMBS  WESTMINSTER HALL  HOUSES OF PAELIA-
[ENT  MEMBERS  MONOMANIA  GEORGE III. AND JOHNSON 
LEATINGS IN THE HOUSE OF COMMONS  POMPEY THB NEGRO.

f DEAREST Julia, London,  1843.
Come with me to Westminster Abbey, to the
nbs of the great, " venez voir le peu qui nous reste
tant de grandeur." Enter Poets' Corner and gaze
on the first inscription, "0 rare Ben Jonson!" and
•e are the monuments to the great and good, here
: names unsurpassed in the world's long catalogue —
akspeare, Milton, Dryden; but I cannot go through
; list. The late Dean of Westminster refused to allow
; erection of Lord Byron's statue in the Abbey; a
y fine statue or bust, I forget which, by Thorwaldsen,
V lies, I am told, at the Custom House. Did
ristianity require this? Monuments to Matthew
or and Thomas ShadweU are in Poets' Corner; in
isistency they ought to be removed. Things are
ersed — the successful poets of England in modern
les gain bread enough, but the greatest of them all
refused a stone !

74 letters from
It would be invidious to point out the monuments
of others to whom Dr. Ireland must have demurred
had he been then in office. The fees of admittance to
view the Abbey are now greatly reduced, but you must
go round with the guide and see all by rote. I was
told this raorning that many contend it is impohtic to
open. abbeys and churches to the public, because the
monuments would be mutUated or scribbled on! What,
this in civilized England — this in the country that
thinks it could improve our manners and tastes! Oh!
tell it not in Gath, whisper it not in the streets beyond
the Atlantic ! Surely it is a dream, or they do hut
droU. It is not the Englishman of 1843 who is spoken
of— and in London! No, it is the image-hating fol
lowers of John Knox in Scotland; or the stern Puritan
of Cromwell's days in old St. Paul's; or 'tis Paris, and
the ruthless destroyers of the French Revolution, the
disciples of Marat or CoUot d'Herbois, "the men
without a God !"
You have not to be told that there are a great many
monuments erected to poets, sages, and heroes not buried
in Westminster. AU that could die of Shakspeare lies at
Stratford-on-Avon; Milton was interred at St. Giles's
Cripplegate, a church at the other extremity of London;
Thomson, at Richmond; Goldsmith in the burial-
ground of the Temple Church. But, to say nothing of
kings or nobles, Pitt, and Fox, and Sheridan, and
Grattan, and others are buried in the sacred precincts
of tbe Abbey; and one may ponder on the wisdom, and

AN AMERICAN LADY. 75
.¦ning, and patriotism, that sleep with those who
ip below. It were something to be allowed to muse
r such graves, and to commune with one's self at
I; but to be under the direction of a showman! — Out
the narrow-mindedness of those in high places !
There are a very great number of monuments; and
lly were it not partaking too much of levity or pro-
eness for a lady's pen. Pope's couplet on the worms
amber might be applied to many of the names.
ere is a monument to Major Andre, which was not
3ted untU forty years after bis death.
The Americans as well as the British may feel
lobled in Westminster, for there are the great names
a common ancestry; the warriors who made British
)ur felt; the poets and philosophers who gave un-
ng lustre to the language long before misrule made
erica with unfaltering voice exclaim, " I will be free."
meer and Spenser, and Barrow, and Addison, and
vton, are ours as well as England's.
Vestminster Hall is opposite the Abbey; a wide road
ding them. You enter from a spacious opening
ed Palace Yard; a noble hall it is; and the scene of
mation splendours. Into this hall, in the midst
;he crowning festival, rode an armed champion, who
Ig down a gauntlet challenging to single combat
one who denied to the fourth George the rightful
;reignty of his realms. Such denial would have
n treasonable; and treason is unsparingly punished.
: champion's horse was hired for the occasion; for

76 LETTERS FROM
the job the groom would call it, from Astley's, the
mountebank^s. There may be many in distant Hindostan
who might well have flung down a gage in denial.
Several of the Courts of Law have openings into this
huge hall. We entered two or three (Mr. N. was of
the party), all was decorum and order; the councillors
wigged and gowned; the judges also, but differently.
Nothing interesting, nor indeed intelligible to me, was
under discussion, and courts are not places I care to
visit. I ara told, by the way, that many ladies of rank
are fond of being present at the trials of murderers;
they go for a sensation, I suppose, the Opera palls in
time — its murders are only simulated.
Between four and five o'clock the same evening we
saw tbe Members of the two Houses of Parhament
arrive; both chambers are in the precincts of West
minster HaU, places temporarily fitted up since the fire.
The Duke of Wellington came on horseback; he is best
known as "the Duke;" and when "the Duke" is
mentioned, no one thinks of asking what Duke? In
the same way, I am told, when "the Admiral" is
mentioned, in many parts of what was once Spanish
America, Columbus is always understood. The old
Generalissimo's bearing is erect and soldierly, his hair
perfectly white; I knew him at a glance; the very
caricatures are like him; the few gentlemen present
took off their hats, and the Duke returned the courtesy
by lifting his right fore-finger to the rim of his hat; he
dismounted, I thought, with some difficulty, but his

AN AMERICAN LADY. 77
groom offered no assistance. I believe the veteran
warrior is unwiUing to be beaten even by old age.
" Aweel," said a young Scotchman near us, " he 's
worth seein' ony how." I was very glad I saw him
so well; he is an important part of the world's history.
1 have frequently seen him since.
Lord Lyndhurst has a countenance of singular
shrewdness. Lord Brougham walked to the House. I
expected to have seen a much plainer man; but he was
plainly enough dressed. O'Connell is a man of massive
mould, with a strongly-featured Irish face, betokening
no httle humour. Sir Robert Peel is a portly gentle
man, with nothing, it seemed to me, very marked in
his countenance or appearance; he looked grave, and
Mr. N. said, was usuaUy solemn and staid in his official
demeanour. Pope on Walpole was quoted to prove
this; but then Mr. N. is a keen partisan on the op
posite side — ^he had lately been one of a deputation to
the Premier — " see Sir Robert? Hum,
And never smile for all my life to come.
Seen him I have."
Mr. N. quoted no further. Lord John Russell is of
short stature, and has not the look of a high-souled
minister of state. One of the most remarkable of
those we saw was Sir Francis Burdett; his hair is also
perfectly white; his dress that of forty years ago (I
never could describe gentlemen's dresses), and be looked
a perfect gentleman of the old school. I could not

78 LETTERS FROM
learn the name of one extraordinary looking member,
splendid in garb, and mincing in gait; he took off his
hat as he accosted some ladies waiting in a carriage
hard by, and the wind " shook thousand odours " from
bis flowing hair. Mr. Macaulay is short and stout;
his form seems as firmly built as his fame. Many
were so young.
On the whole, the Members were fine-looking men,
though some were of very ordinary mien; countenances
marked by nothing, except in one or two instances by ,
the small-pox. We noted how plainly most of the
peers were dressed — finery is for an inferior grade— the
magic words "my Lord," would, I believe, command an
Englishman's deference, if "his Lordship" thought
proper to wear his own livery, shoulder-knots and all.
Mr. Dickens tells of monomania in America, in a
man imprisoned for two years for steahng a copper
vessel containing liquor, and at the expiration of the
term, going back to the same distiUers and stealing
the same measure, with the same quantity of hquor!
Monomania in this country knows a more horrid bent.
The monarchies of France and Great Britain nurse
strange spirits in their bosoms.
You need not fear for my republican orthodoxy. I
am not likely to fall in love with monarchy, and cannot
understand how some of these European people have
been dazzled by mere contact with a monarch. I can
account for it, where the sovereign is amiable, fair, and
gracious, hke Queen Victoria; or a mighty conqueror,

AN AMERICAN LADY. 79
with intellect on his massive brow like Napoleon; but
take, for example, Johnson's interview with George
the Third. Though the Doctor did wTite virulent
pamphlets against American independence, he is not
an unpopular author among us. Well : he encounters
George the Third in the palace library; the King asks
a few questions about the two Universities; two contro
versialists — Warburton and South; two reviews — the
Monthly and the Critical; and pays the lexicographer
a very common-place compliment : the King withdraws,
and the Colossus of English literature forthwith
pronounces him as fine a gentleman as Louis the
Fourteenth, or Charles the Second! The homely
domestic agricultural George compared to Louis le
Grand, or to the wittiest, raost engaging, and most
proffigate of Britain's kings! Are we to understand
that a fondness for boiled mutton and broad farce are
the principal elements in the composition of a fine
gentieman? If Johnson be right, how very wrong
every one else must be.
Ladies in gaUant England are not admitted to the
debates in the Housra of Parhament — nor is any one
without a written order from a member. The very
reporters attend in direct violation of one ofthe standing
orders of the House. I asked Mr. N. why, since it is
impossible to exclude reporters, this order was not
rescinded? He told me it was retained as an excellent
exemplification of what logicians call a rmn sequitur. I
do not affect to understand this reason, and suppose

80 LETTERS FROM
Mr. N. spoke jestingly. Did this parliamentary knot,
tied every session and untied every night, exist in an
Irish parliament, if there were one, it would be cited as
a proof of the blunderingness of the people.
It has been urged that were there a gallery of ladies
tbe speeches of the younger members would be addressed
to their fair audience, rather than to the subject-matter
of debate. And if they were, what would be lost? I will
not say that any alteration would be an improvement;
but any thing that would draw an Enghshman from
that centralisation of self, so characteristic of him,
must be an improvement. Abstract patriotism is not
of our times. Why not speak to a gallery of ladies as
well as one of reporters ? for to the gentlemen of the
press are speeches delivered, and the orator next
raorning "lives o'er again the happy hour" of his
declamation, with aU its "hear, hears;" "cheers," and
" laughter." You cannot expect me to give you a character of the
present parliamentary oratory; but surely it must be
admitted that there is no comparison between the
rhetorical genius of the present time and of that which
knew Edmund Burke and his compeers. Ah ! " there
were giants in those days." The Enghsh have debates
now — they had eloquence then.
Of late, when the speechifying encroaches upon the
morning, the members (who can wonder?) grow full
weary, and give their impatience words — no, not words,
but yeUs and imitations of dogs, birds, and sheep; there

AN AMERICAN LADY. 81
i-e many country gentlemen in the House whose talk
I of oxen, and some, it may be, who are skUful in
nitating their lowings. You remember our Negro
Ompey wdth his powers of mimicry. How he used to
lake us shudder, when he buzzed like a mosquito in
le hall; how he could emulate the chirping of a whole
ock of Kittydids and Kittydidn'ts, or even the melody
f a froggery —
" As plaintive lambkin now he bleats, and now
He gently whimpers like a lowing cow."
i'hat an acquisition he would be to the House of
ommons. "The applause of listening senates to
immand," would induce Pompey to put forth all his
3wers, — be would be quite super-natural.
The length of some of the speeches in Parliament
iems to me very impolitic; he cannot be an accom-
lished debater, who requires more than an hour to
shver his sentiments or arguments. To go into a
mg historical or statistical detaU is a poor comphment
I the inteUigence of the members, who ought not to
Bed such information. I am always tempted to con-
ude that a very long speech contains very thin matter
-it must be beaten during the lengthy process into
ich tenuity— a few grains of oratorical gold would be
itter than aU this gold leaf; official statements may
> doubt form exceptions.
The new Houses of Parliament are in course of
•ection close to the river; they wiU form a fine object
E

OZ LETTERS FROM
from it, as well as from Westminster Bridge. The
officers and door-keepers of the Houses of Parliament
are said to surpass all other pubhc officers in conse
quential bearing, jack-in-office-ism. If they do, they
must be so sublime in their incivility as to be akin to
prodigies. I admire the wondrous skill of the London reporters;
they not only give what was said, but the words come
mended from their pens, a sort of typographical alchemy,
I attended a meeting at Exeter Hall once, and read the
report next morning with unmixed surprise. I have
often heard that if all the speeches in Parliament were
printed word for word very few would read them — very
few read them now, being satisfied with the clever
summary in the journals. People hear how eloquent
Lord P., or Lord S., or Sir R., or Mr. M., were, and
are contented to take it upon trust. Lord Morpeth, who
bas lately returned from America, and has not written
a book to repay hospitality with satire (unaccustomed
forbearance!), is not in this Parliament. His sister,
the Duchess of Sutherland, is one of the leading
beauties of Queen Victoria's Court, although she is not
now one of the household. The Duke is one of the
many in England enormously rich. But alas! for
mortal fingers, even when writing of ladies, and courts,
and parUaments, they weary as readily as if the topic
was of beings of ordinary humanity. I do believe as
readUy as if the letter were a transcript of old family
recipes — " how to make a tansy pudding," or how to

AN AMERICAN LADY. 83
dress the dish which called forth the execration of
Marlow and Hastings, " a pig with prune sauce."
I feel sleepy too, for it is late, and when I bave
closed my letter I think nothing could keep me half-
an-hour awake — not the best scene in Cooper's best
novel — not the rich quiet humour of our own Rip Van
Winkle. How the poor chief of the Choctaw Indians
mistook, when he complimented Boz on the skill with
which he could portray the red men of the forest if
he thought fit to attempt it ! I hope, and indeed feel
sure, Mr. Dickens will not — he would cockneyise
them. Ever, etc.

84 LETTERS FROM

LETTER X.

LONDON AND AMERICAN DIRT  CHAIRS  DINNER PARTIES — MUSIC —
ARISTOCRATIC LITERATURE  YOUNG LADIES — MUCH IN MANNER
 SUPERFICIAL KNOWLEDGE  CLUBS  FROLICS OF ARISTOCRACT
 FIRE GRATES  WHAT A GUY !

Dearest Julia, London, ¦  1843.
I am weather-bound — that is, confined to the
house by the rainy gusty weather; the barometer here
is as fluctuating as the resolutions of a flirt. There is
an adhesive quality in London dirt that is pecuharly
metropolitan. Constant friction and grinding work up
the mud of the streets into a paste — it may be safely
warranted to stick beyond sealing-wax — a few splashes
as you get in or out of a carriage may be fatal to the
well-being of a dress. This raud is soon removed from
the streets — the scavenger-police, if I may use the word,
is efficient — so that one has no opportunity of inspecting
very antiquated miriness, such as that at Lowell, which,
according to Boz, " might have been deposited at the
subsiding of the waters after the deluge;" this old mud
in the new world should be looked to by geologists— a
scientific analysis of it would be valuable in an appendix

an AMEEICAN LADY. 85
to the next edition of the American Notes — tbe curious
in dirts would be gratified.
As I am confined to the house, I may as well write
of house matters. The furniture of London rooms is
very similar to New York apartments; more crowded
perhaps, while more precautions are taken to fence out
cold than to mitigate heat. There are no rocking-
chairs — some I bear at Liverpool — but every form of
easy-chair that ingenuity can devise, or wealth and
luxury can command; some of silk moreen, some of
scented morocco leather, and with cushions, and springs,
and arms, and every thing to invite repose. In one of
these pleasant cubicles beware what book you peruse,
for if there be aught of dulness the lines soon dance
before the eyes, and slumber relieves stupidity; namby-
pamby poets are an unfailing soporific — one must nod
" While they ring round the same unvaried chimes.
With sure returns of still expected rhymes ;
» s * » *
If crystal streams ' with pleasing murmurs creep,'
The reader's threaten'd (not in vain) with ' sleep.' "
In dinner parties the display of napery, glass, and
plate, is magnificent. I have heard that plate is
frequently hired for the occasion. The custom of taking
wine with any of the party at dinner seems falling into
desuetude— pity, for it was a kindly custom; but per
haps not pleasant to the modern Englishman — it takes
him too much out of himself — it is too elaborate a
courtesy for bim. The English are certainly hospitable

86 letters from
(a very large class excepted); but there is too much
display in their hospitality — it is too much a thing for
parade and newspaper-paragraphs. The cookery seems
the same as it is iu the best houses with us— principally
French. In some few dishes we have the advantage—
the English can have no wild turkey, they have not
the variety of game found in our forests; the fish is
less delicious; the ices, fruits, and sweetmeats, less
abundant; but better in their arrangement. To be
sure, I have been at parties in July, where ices were not
needed; the reserve of the company was chill enough.
The ladies only cared to talk to the gentlemen, while
the gentlemen sighed for their clubs. Some daring
spirit ventures on a repartee which is received as if it
were a personal insult to the slow-witted company.
The wine, in time perhaps, expels this restraint, and
conversation flows freely with the sparkling vintages of
France. The talk is, of routs, balls and operas, much; of
scandal, somewhat; of literature, a little; of music, much.
It is the fashion to assume a passionate fondness for
music. Years were wasted to make the pretty Helen
 musical, because her father was rich and an M.P.
and her mamma gave concerts, and had an opera-
box in tbe best part of the house, and several middle-
aged peers and eldest sons and youthful baronets are
known to be distractingly or distractedly— I don't
know which is the proper word— fond of music; poor
Helen laboured painfuUy on, she had no ear; all the

AN AMERICAN LADY. 87
paternal wealth and maternal fashion could not procure
a new one; she never played in tune; "panting time
toUed afterher in vain," and nature in tbe long run
had the best of it: her music-books were closed, and
Helen's harp is now as sUent as King David's. The
young lady, as you wUl readUy conclude from your
knowledge of the famUy, had capacity to learn any
thing else; but the precious and irrevocable opportu
nities of youth .were thus grievously wasted.
Literature, it must be admitted, is eagerly pursued
by many of the aristocracy — titled poetesses and poets,
and novehsts, aud dramatists, and historians, are as
plenty as blackberries, and often as insipid; many of
the productions are light and elegant; but somehow or
other they soon float out of memory, perhaps, because
they are so light; there are many iUustrious exceptions,
however, many who stand far in advance of " the mob
of gentlemen who write with ease."
How much there is in manner. I have seen young
ladies at a dinner-table listen with pleased and eager
looks to voluble (and eligible) gentlemen, as if they
were as famUiar with the subject as with the mazes of
the quadrille, and be as ignorant of it the while as of
the Sioux dialect. Once upon a time — to begin my
story with an orthodox beginning — a young lady of this
well-trained class was listening to an East Indian officer
of high rank, and timed her " Dear mes," and " well,
sirs," admirably — the East Indian, who was very prosy,
thought he had a most intelligent auditress. "WeU,

88 LETTERS FROM
after this strange adventure, as I entered the tent, 1
heard Sheer Singh, who — " "Pray," interrupted the
pretty debutante, "did he sing well?" — The charm was
dispelled; the ideal, as Bulwer might say, merged into
the actual. Miss  only looked inteUigence; andthe
mention, as she thought, of this Sheer singing, threw
her off her guard — she expected to hear, perhaps, that
he was an Indian Rubini.
Mr. E  , of Baltimore, told me he was once
conversing with Lady  of the wonderful works of
nature and art in the new and old worlds — after a dis
cussion of Niagara, he was proceeding to speak of the
Gaits of the Missouri. " Pray," said her Ladyship, "are
they of iron or wood?" I have been asked if New
York was buUt upon the plan of Old York, and if it
had as fine a Minster? 0, superficial knowledge, how
many are thy children ! Then the way in which young
ladies here are taught and shewn the exceUence of an
establishment, and of marrying well (that is wealthily)
cannot be too much condemned. By the by, Julia,
among the many who visited at Aunt  "pour I'amour
de vos beaux yeux," did not one Irish gentleman *
:ic * :|t :<; :(: *
Club life is a new thing in London, and is strongly
characteristic of the age. The club-bouses are very
numerous, and among the most splendid in the metro
polis. Ladies admire them not; but husbands, fathers,
brothers, and wooers, wiZ/ frequent their clubs; for there
they can be undisturbed and unquestioned, and can

AN AMERICAN LADY. 89
nurse the selfishness their souls love. Had these places
existed in Thomson's day, their lazy luxury would have
ensured honourable mention in the Castle of Indolence.
What a poem it is ! the perusal makes one so deliciously
drowsily entranced. One feels half sorry that tbe
proper hero had the best of it — the
" Knight of muchel fame.
Of active mind and vigorous lustyhed.
The Knight of Arts, and Industry by name."
But this is a digression.
Every luxury is within the Clubbist's reach, and at
comparatively little cost. Does a gentleman love the
wild excitement, the savage glee of gambling? His
club shaU afford him opportunities of honourable ruin.
The old gentleraan can be sure of his quiet rubber at
time-honoured whist. Do you remember how Judge
J  loved it, and the pains he took to initiate me
into its profundities, its science, and its tricks — it is
shorn of its beams here, cut in two, into a game called
short whist. Last night greatly to my surprise, for I
really did not understand what was meant by half-
crown points when I sat down, I won thirty-sterling
shillings! Are you not afraid for my morals? My
partner was an R. A., nothing under; but how I do
digress — let me back to my clubs, I mean clubs without
spades, diamonds, or hearts. The lawyer has his club,
and the actor his, and the literary man his. The army
and navy have several. The principal political clubs
are White's, Boodle's, Brookes's, the Carlton and the
E 2

90 LETTERS FROM
Reform; there are others no doubt. It is said a
reverend wit when shewn the magnificent drawing-
room of the Reform Club expressed his admiration, but
declared he would " rather have their room than their
company." Tbe coffee-house life of Steele and Addi
son's day, and the tavern-life of si later period, seem
unknown. I have heard it said that taken as a whole, and with
most liberal exceptions, the aristocracy of the day are
more decorous than they were in the days of the third
George. But, on the other hand, say the advocates of
the good old times, if more decorous they are duller—
what wit, what humour is their in Lord W  's steal
ing Mr. Jones's knocker, or Mr. Brown's beU-handle?
In Lord  wagering, he would in a given time
exhibit so many door-plates each engraved "Smith,"
and each neatly and nocturnally wrenched from its
proper dweUing-place? What is there in Captain 
hanging his trophies in his room, bell-pulls, door-plates,
knockers, and policemen's lanterns, all duly labeled
and dated. Nothing in all this but what any one could
accomplish; but there was deep skill in Sir Francis
Delaval playing the conjuror and fortune-teller in
Leicester Fields, and driving half London wUd with his
predictions and the truths he told in his assumed
character — and in Sheridan mystifying Madame de
Genlis in a way to give her an incident for a romance
had she so chosen — and in Wilkes's freaks and Fox's.j
Ab ! we've no conjurors among the higher ranks now-

AN AMEKICAN LADY. 91
a-days — there's no humour, no finesse, no smartness in
modern aristocratic frolics — the age is degenerate.
Which, Julia, do you prefer; the brandy of tbe old
times, or the white wine of the present?
"Dear one, choose between the two.''
— This seems doomed to be a digressive epistle, and tbe
day has now become so fine that I have a good mind to
make another digression — into the Park; but I set out
describing the interior of a London dwelling-house.
Mr. Dickens demurs to the sleeping apartments in
America. / think them superior to those in England,
for they are larger and airier, and therefore appear to
be more scantly furnished. Mr. Dickens seems never
to have recollected the difference of climate. We like
rooms and room to breathe in.
Pianos are common in London rooms, even in the
houses of the less wealthy tradesmen ; it seems a necessary
piece of furniture where it is not played upon. >¦. I have
1 seen one "contrived a double debt to pay," it served
for a sideboard as well. 7 The young man whom Mr.
Dickens met with in one of his favourite and well-
described asylums, and whose madness was love and
music, might perhaps be regarded as sane here — the
passion and the taste being very often assumed in
excess, and no mania suspected.
/f Great taste is often displayed in the fire-grates in
England, and in so uncertain and damp a climate a
bright fire is often good society. Nothing but coal is
burnt in London; but in some parts of England they

92 LETTERS FROM
consume peat or turf, the use of which is common
among the poor Irish. I agree with Mr. Dickens in
his strictures on the " suffocating red-hot demon of a
stove " in America. There are many methods here of
warming public buildings; sometimes by means of
heated air — sometimes by improved stoves; but I think
nothing will supersede the grate in private dwellings;
the English like to have a fire to look upon, and it is
pleasant in a musing mood at twilight, to trace strange
or familiar faces and forms, or baseless rocks and castles
in the glowing cinders, whUst the mind in a waking
dream rears its own castles in the air— more baseless
still. The boarding-house life, so common in the great
cities in America, is not known here, at least not in the
same degree,.^'
I forgot to tell you that our odd-looking New
Orleans friend, Mr. Walter Guy, has married a very
rich Scotch widow, late Mrs. Mac  ; the happy pair
are spending their honeymoon in London, and then
mean to "locate" in Edinburgh; he has given up
tobacco to please his bride. All-powerful love! Tbe
first day (in December) this gentleman was in town he
had an odd adventure. Accompanied by Mr. George,
who told me the tale, he went to call upon some one
near Covent Garden; they left tbeh omnibus in tbe
Strand, and being strangers, of course, lost themselves.
Know that Mr. Walter is always called by his famUiars
Watty Guy; his dress on this occasion was, to say the
least of it, unusual— better adapted to New Orleans

AN AMERICAN LADY. 93
heat than London cold. I need hardly tell you that
" in form and moving " he is not " express and
admirable." Know also that there is a custom here of carrying
about effigies of Guido Fawkcs (in common parlance,
"Guys") every fifth of November, and burning them
in commemoration of the Gunpowder Plot; the figures
are so grotesque that the boys distinguish any strange-
looking object as a "Guy." The effigies are formed of
old clothes stuffed with straw, common painted masks
for faces, and generally a short pipe in the mouth; they
are swnng to a seat, with long poles attached for
handles, and so are borne to combustion : — but to leave
the plot and proceed with the story. jMr. Guy and his
friend soon fbuud themselves in a wretched court, full
of dirty chUdren, who, as soon as they espied our hero,
exclaimed with one voice — and the Cockneys rarely
aspirate the h after the w — "What a Guy! What a
Guy!" The American stopped, sudden and astounded.
His very name! Wat-ty Guy! His ears could not
have deceived him. Was it possible his arrival had
been announced, and that his description had so
preceded him he was known to the very children
in London! The pair soon gained the open street,
and a juvenUe sweeper of a crossing, being refused a
gratuity, cried out — "Twig, BUl, what a Guy! What
a Guy!" Mr. Walter threatened loudly, and as loudly
rose the derisive shout, "What a Guy! What a Guy!"
They passed on, and a little further an itinerant song-

94 LETTERS FROM
ster, four feet high, or low, took up the shout, " What
a Guy ! " The patience of the American was exhausted,
and he struck the little warbler prostrate in the street.
Up came a policeman and quickly gathered a crowd;
I think there never was a place where a crowd gathers
so rapidly, or for such trifles, or nothingnesses, as in
London, — however, Mr. George succeeded in effecting
an adjournment to some tavern, where the matter was
explained, and the injured youth gladly compromised
his action for assault, a sixpence being the amount at
which he assessed his damages, and so ended Mr. Walter
Guy's first appearance in London, — and with his name
my song shall end. Ever, etc.

AN AMERICAN L.iDY. 95

LETTER XL

SHORT SPEECH OF THE ENGLISH — SURPRISING IGNORANCE IN
ENGLAND  APATHY OF THE RICH  BEAU-IDEAL OF AN ENGLISH
TRAVELLER IN THE UNITED STATES — ENGLISH HAVE LITTLE LOVE
FOR THEIR COUNTRY — MAD ^. TUSSAUd's WAX-WORKS  HEROES 
MURDERERS, WHOLESALE AND RETAIL.

Dearest Julia, London,  1843.
" By the way," says Mr. Dickens, " whenever
an Englishman would cry "All right," an American
cries " Go a-head," which is somewhat expressive of the
national character of the two countries." " All right,"
is said by the English when they direct a coach or any
thing to go on; if the words are taken in their proper
signification, they are only in one way applicable to an
Englishman — what he does he considers "aU right,"
but what is done to him generally " all wrong," for
his self-conceit convinces him he is never sufficiently
appreciated. The parish orator believes in his secret
soul that his proper arena is the House of Commons ;
the oracle at a Mechanic's Institute, that he ought to be
an oracle in a Government office. It is this feeling
which makes society so much a thing of pretence.

96 LETTERS FROM
"Men should be what they seem;" but the struggle
here is to seem what they think they should be.
An Englishman seldom says "all right," be is too
chary of bis words; he says "right." If a hackney
coachman is bidden to stop, the usual formula being,
"hold hard," it is merely "ard." This elliptical
fashion prevails in most words in very common use —
there is no specific rule — the unhappy word is some
times cut off after its first syllable, sometimes shortened
to its termination; "a cabriolet" becomes " a cab," but
an omnibus " a bus." The titles of periodical works
are always abbreviated — the Reviews, Magazines, and
Newspapers are simply designated "The Edinburgh" or
"Quarterly," "New Monthly," "Post," or "Herald;"
Gentlemen are often cut down into " gents" (a de
testable word) ; Drury Lane and Covent Garden theatres
are "the Lane" and "the Garden;" the Hospitals are
briefly " Guy's," " Bartholomew's," etc. I could give
you a great many more instances, but it is needless;
these people must consider their words very valuable
that they keep so many of them to themselves — that is,
in common or private, or domestic colloquy; in public
they may be voluble enough, after the manner of men
who speak for newspapers.
I am more and more convinced how little the English
reaUy know of America; they view it in such a petty
spirit; judge of it, in fine, in tbe spirit that prompts
their judgment in their own sraall matters, their clubs,
or parishes, or corporations. They cannot conceive a

AN AMERICAN LADY. 97
nation without a titled and privileged aristocracy.
What is not subserviency they consider anarchy — and
then a country without a regular standing army ! How
can justice be administered by wigless judges? What
but barbarousness can exist where poor men object to
wear liveries ! Then comes a summing up of American
enormities; they sit in a manner the English do not,
consequently the American way must be wrong. Vast
distance, different customs and institutions, have caused
a diversity of language, therefore the American language
must be low; the Americans grow and chew tobacco,
and the necessary consequences are attributed to them
as a national dishonour !
How comes it that the French and other traveUers
do not dwell upon these things, but pass them over as
matters of little moment? Is it jealousy, or ignorance,
or littleness on the part of the British?
]\Iiss Julia  perhaps expresses surprise that I
talk of ignorance among the English — attend, ma belle.
It is not long ago that an adventurer, named Thom,
was regarded by numbers, in Kent, as an inspired
prophet — in Kent, a county adjoining London, whUst
its capital (Canterbury) gives a title to the arch-episcopal
head of the Church of England; and even when there
was bloodshed in the capture of this impostor, and he
was slain, numbers believed he would come to life again !
On the borders of Wales, near Newport, two or three
years back was a formidable insuirection ; the misguided
Welchmen shewing the most deplorable ignorance, and

98 LETTERS FROM
a reckless readiness for any deed of violence. Charlatans
flourish more in England than in all the world beside.
London, one of the poets calls —
"the needy villain's common home;
The sink and sewer of Paris and of Rome."
The really learned are often incommunicative, while
pretending braggarts pass off their brawling shallow
ness for the deep words of wisdom; and sympathising
hearers haU a kindred spirit, and applaud the orator,
because they understand him ; he speaks down to com
mon, very common capacity, and they feel he must be
right, for they think so too. Believe me, there is a
fearful raass of ignorance in the land, and masses of
ignorance often are, and may be easily, kneaded into
criminality. The people, the rich people, see or care
nothing for what is passing around them; they either
look over it, and regard (publicly) the wants of foreign
lands, or look on with no more special wonder than
Shakspeare's summer's cloud commanded; but even a
a summer's cloud may be fraught with storm and
thunder. Off the western coast of Ireland— I read this in a work
of high authority — are a very great many islands, and
the inhabitants are pronounced as rude and are ap
parently as little cared for as they were centuries ago—
how disinterested then, all these things considered, how
self-denying in the British to send out teachers or
missionaries, call them what you will, to Tahiti, to New
Zealand, to the banks of the Niger ! The Thames, and

AN AMERICAN LADY. 99
the Severn, and the Mersey, and the Ouse, and the
other rivulets flow through a land so overflowing with
wealth, wisdom, and enlightenment, that it can afford to
waft its superfluous knowledge and riches to the distant
Niger. Am I deceived, dear JuUa, in my irony — is this
so? May it not be rather, that pious and wise, and
prosperous are all the children of famed Great Britain;
the voice of wailing and poverty is heard no longer in
her crowded streets; the school has superseded the
prison; the workhouse and the treadmill are among
things that were — superfluous judges travel to un-
criminal assizes. The soldiers' bayonets are broken to
form steel-pens; diseases are as rare as the vices that
once engendered them; and this blessed consummation
attained, is it not the duty of the high and wealthy to
inform the African, to regenerate the Chinese, and
to shew their love and admiration for the pious, virtu
ous, contented, informed and grateful people at home;
by striving to render distant regions as felicitous ?—-
But let me pause, don't call this a digression — ^but,
but, how shall I term it — an episode — let it be an
episode. A philosophical Englishman would deserve well of
his own country, and America would honour him were
he to travel through the United States, not with the
harlequinade pace of Boz, — not so announced that all
might know his object, to write a book; but as a
patient, searching, inquiring observer ¦ — a Park, or a
Humboldt — living with the people, and conforming

100 LETTERS FROM
to national manners and even peculiarities; sage with
the learned, and plain with the humble. Then let him
return and tell of a vast country, a dependent colony in
his grandsire's day, a vast and youthful country ad
vancing with uncontrollable strides to happiness, power,
and wealth; let him point out the varying States with
their various produce; dwell minutely upon the laws and
constitution that Americans love, and are not ashamed
to own they love; shew how they are adapted to foster
her growing strength, to give her a giant's might and
a sage's wisdom; and where change or modification
might avail her, — let him say what he really thinks of
slavery, but say it temperately and in a learned spirit,
not contenting himself to string together isolated facts
(advertisements are the readiest) and unmeaning decla
mation ; let bim describe the forest disappearing before
the settler's axe, and how, year by year, population
would increase, and facilities of intercourse, and new
markets and new cities arise; and chiefly let him tell,
how his own country should regard its distant offspring,
holding out the frank right hand of cordiality, and
hailing a rising people in another hemisphere, among
whom her language and literature might live when the
island of Great Britain had fulfilled her destiny.
The English laugh at the Americans for being sensi
tive to satire, or as it is sometimes elegantly worded, "so
thin-skinned:" and if it were so, does it not shew a
kindly filial love of country, unknown to the phlegmatic
Englishman? A generous people would respect, rather

AN AMERICAN LADY. 101
than wish to irritate the patriot's feeling, which felt
wounded, when " Scornful jeer.
Misprized the land he loved so dear."
But the nationality of the Americans, the Spaniards,
and the Scotch, are alike censured by a people who care
too much for themselves individually to care for their
country or their kind.
It is a Scottish man, and a poet, who asks —
" Breathes there a man with soul so dead,
Who never to himself has said.
This is my own, my native land!"
How the London people who have read the Lay,
must have smUed at the simphcity of the Minstrel ! In
the theatres now-a-days, the speeches expressive of love
of country in the comedies and farces of an earlier
period, though they may be applauded by the galleries,
are laughed at by the better -informed as clap-trap. I
believe there never was a people more attached to their
country than are the Americans to theirs, with all its
free republican institutions. The fifty-scandal power
of Mrs. TroUope's book, the quizzicality of Boz — to say
nothing of Mrs. Butler, Captain Basil Hall, and others,
but make them love their native land the better.
I weary of these abstruse matters, so hey, presto ! and
we are at Madame Tussaud's wax -work exhibition.
Gorgeous is the hall, brUliant the lights, pleasant the
music (the harp was played admirably); and numerous
the spectators. When you do see the English ani-

102 LETTERS FROM
mated, it is in a crowd. It is a fine sight assuredly;
but I had heard much of it, and was disappointed.
There is no artistic skill about the figures; the manu
facturer has not had the art to conceal his art — wax,
wax, wax! There is not a moment's illusion.
Some of the figures are on pedestals, some on tbe
floor, some on benches, and some on an elevated plat
form; all are, or ought to be the size of life; but the
proportions, to my eye and to that of better judges,
were not well preserved. Nelson looked too big, and
Canning too little. And there is George the Fourth, in
his habit as he was crowned; and his unhappy wife and
the fair-haired daughter whom Britain loved so well; —
and a group, containing Napoleon, the Emperors of
Austria and Russia, the King of Prussia, Murat, Talley
rand, the Duke, Ney, Lord Anglesey, and others. Some
of the groups are very odd. In one, two or three Enghsh
gentlemen in their modern costumes are standing witi
Mehemet Aii, as if they had met the Egyptian ruler at
a London conversazione, and were talking about the
price of corn at Cairo ! Why could not some historical
or chronological verity be preserved? John Knox is
represented addressing Mary Stuart, and Luther and
Calvin are standing by him ! If we waive trifling im
pediments of time and plaee, and assume that the three
reformers met, what would have been the consequence?
Would they have fought ,1 mean bodily? The clench
ing of hands has sometimes superseded that of argu
ments in very grave persons.

AN AMERICAN LADY. 103
Queen Victoria is represented at her coronation and
her marriage, and I think scant justice has been ren
dered to her beauty. There is a figure of Washington,
draped in black velvet — dignified in position, and a
very passable likeness. I felt proud as I looked upon
his effigy; a man on whose robe of glory rested neither
the stain of selfishness, the deep-dyed spot of avarice,
nor tbe brand of unworthy ambition. How few of the
world's heroes maintained hke Washington, "the noble
character of a Captain, the Friend of peace, and a
Statesman, the Friend of justice." From "Macedonia's
madman to the Swede," and from him to Napoleon;
they all lacked most of the qualities " that make
ambition virtue."
" Not so Leonidas and Washington,
Whose every battle-field is holy ground.
Which breathes of nations saved, not worlds undone."
Little Charles Sausse repeated these lines until I had
them by heart; he had either forgotten or would not
tell where he found them. Byron — I mean Madame
Tussaud's Byron — looks like an amateur Romeo at an
inferior theatre, and Shakspeare is served little better,
but he is accustomed to misrepresentation. Sir Walter
has the look of bonhomie that characterised him, and
John Kemble and Mrs. Siddons look the incarnation (in
wax) of Hamlet and Lady Macbeth. Cobbett, one of
the best figures, is placed on a bench where visitors sit;
he has a snuff-box in his hand, bis head moves, and I
was told he had been accosted as if he not only moved.

104 LETTERS FROM
but lived, and had his being! There is a Chinese
figure which, being duly wound up, shakes its head— a
feat that gives great satisfaction to tbe enlightened and
well-dressed crowd.
In addition to all this is a Chamber of Horrors—
a detached collection, with of com'se an extra charge.
Here are the murderers, that is, the retail murderers,
the most prized by the curious in crimes, and other
dreadful characters, both French and English. When
the law has made its last exhibition of a murderer at
the Newgate drop, his likeness is soon advertised as
added to this collection. A cold-blooded people like
the English, love what is shocking, that they may
experience something akin to excitement; but we had
not this taste, and so visited not this Chamber, but
went home to sup, not full of horrors. Ever, etc.

AN AMERICAN LADY. 105

LETTER XIL

MRS. TROLLOPE  what's IN A NAME?  NEW POOR LAW  RICH
ENGLISH CARELESS ABOUT THE POOR  EXPEDIENCY  STEAM TO
RICHMOND  BANKS OF THE THAMES WESTWARD  RICHMOND
HILL AND CHURCH  OMNIBUSES  CHEAP DISCOMFORT  SNUFF.

My dearest Julia, London,  1843.
I might cite things here of ladies of differ
ent ranks which, at first, startled me as rather in
delicate; but I know they are not so considered in this
country, so I have no right to censure them. Inde
licacy is no characteristic of the ladies of England. A
general belief prevails that the American ladies are
what is called squeamish — that is, inordinately modest.
I reaUy believe the chief authority for this absurd
opinion is Mrs. TroUope's novels; the most imagi
native of which is styled "Domestic Manners of the
Americans." One piece of mock-modesty, as the
novelist in question would call it, I plead guilty to —
I have a dishke to pronounce in full, though not to
write it to you, Mrs. TroUope's name — TroUope ! Mr.
TroUope must have been a fascinating man to have

106 LETTERS FROM
induced a young lady to descend from a Milton into a
Trollope. Is there a Mr. Trollope, Sen. still, for bis
name is never heard?
Mr. Dickens tells us — and as I did not know tbe fact
previously, there is some information to be derived
from his two volumes — that " one of the provinces of
the State legislature of Massachusetts is to alter ugly
names into pretty ones;" and this is accomphshed at
small outlay. Pity but a similar provision existed in
England for Mrs. TroUope's behoof! It is recorded,
that when many quiet Parisian citizens, during Robes
pierre's dictatorship, assumed a filthy and ferocious
exterior in order to appear imbued with the spirit of
the times, they insensibly, and by slow degrees, acquired
the feelings they at first simulated, and became the
characters they meant only to play. And so, if Mrs.
Trollope would assume a refined name, who knows what
benefits might accrue? It raight purify and unvul-
garise her style of composition; her friends should see
to it. I cannot conceive her writing as she does were
she Frances T. Montmorency.
Tbe old woraan, concerning whom you wrote me to
make inquiries for Mrs. F  , did die in the work
house and under the circumstances you mention; she
lingered longer than I could have believed possible for
such a person in such a place, nearly three years. Alas !
for one reared in luxury, and possessing, as indeed it
proved to her, "the fatal gift of beauty."
It would be easy to string together a long hst of

AN AMERICAN LADY. 107
cruelties and wrongs inflicted in workhouses, and give
printed authority for each; then append a few pages of
philanthropic paragraphs, and let the inference be, that
in England poverty was punished more severely than
crime — the worn-out pauper, with thews and sinews
stiffened by extreme age, worse treated than the healthy
young pickpocket; and suppose this inference were not
exactly correct, what then ? The like has been done in
respect to slavery in America; there is good precedent
for it, and the Enghsh are great people for precedents.
I have often wondered to hear of judges or legislators
objecting to do such or such a thing, whilst admitting
it ought to be done, because there was no precedent for
it. — Really ! But if the measure were good in itself,
why not make a precedent ?
The New Poor Law is, aud has been, a most prolific
subject of dissension. According to one party it was
to be a panacea — "the sovereign'st thing on earth" for
the aUments of the country. Large new workhouses,
caUed Union workhouses, built like prisons, only
gloomier, were to be flung open to the poor as a test of
destitution; if the tested poor refused to become in
mates, the alternative had the merit of being perfectly
intelligible — simply, to starve — and so some have
starved in preference. This, and a few more provisions
in the like spirit, concerning which a lady cannot write,
were " to scatter plenty o'er a smihng land." I believe
it was never very clearly stated how.
On the other hand, the opponents of the Poor Law

108 LETTERS FROM
change ransacked the dictionaries for epithets to hurl
at the enactments and their supporters. It was a topic
at elections, an established matter of declamation in
the newspapers, and of debates in parliament, untfl the
English people quarreled about the poor as if they
really cared for them ! Cared they as fellow-creatures
ought to care, little need would there be of Poor Laws
at all. But when such a thing is asserted, they smile
an incredulous sraUe; blame the poor, and say it is
impossible. True, it is impossible that selfishness and
self-conceit should not render the heart harder than the
diamond on the finger, and deaden it to every lofty and
generous impulse; therefore, I say, it is impossible that
this remedy should be attempted in England. What!
are all those respectable, reverend, and noble persons,
whose name is legion, and whose individual wealth, in
lands, houses, moneys, jewels, wines, plate, merchandise,
ships, mines, or offices, counts from five thousand
sterling pounds to more than five millions, is it to be
expected that they should exert themselves to benefit
the poor? Many of them have not time — talk of
duties indeed ! They are busy, and cannot be troubled.
And then their aid might be unpraised, un-recorded,
un-printed. — Tush ! Only a lady and a foreigner could
' propound so strange a remedy. Alas! alas! and is it
even so ? W^Ul all these wealthy men always be con
tent to pay their poor's rates, subscribe in weU-
arranged print to a few societies, go to charity balls
and concerts, and bazaars, that they may have what

AN AMERICAN LADY. 109
they account their money's worth for the help they
afford to impoverished schools and shipwrecked ma
riners, and desolate Poles — die — be buried by their
heirs, with abundance of pomp if not of tears, and let
it be duly promulgated that the personal property of
the late Mr.  of  was sworn under so many
tens or hundreds of thousands? Rather than this,
would these affluent persons use their wealth, use it
among their own people, not as thoughtless spend
thrifts, but as Christian gentlemen, they would be as
little troubled about Poor Laws as the Germans,
French, or Americans.
As ungenerous men will be ungenerous, as Christian
men (by courtesy) wiU be un-Christian, a Poor Law is
indispensable in England; and I pretend not to say,
whether the new law really deserves its appellation of
an Amendment, or is only an experimental alteration.
One of its provisions — and this is by law a Christian
land — is, that husband and wife, old or young, well or
ill-conducted, are to be parted in a workhouse; for it
is expedient. " Those whom God hath joined together
let no man put asunder." Is it anywhere written that
parochial convenience should supersede a scriptural
injunction? The British ought to call this the age of
expediency, for reason and gospel must and do yield
to it.
But let us leave the hard-hearted present and get
into the past, and really how much we live in the past
and the future; we are for ever looking before or

110 LETTERS FROM
behind. Like Belinda, Mr. A., you, and myself, as we
stood on that rocky elevation
"  where, at evening, Allegany views.
Through ridges burning in her western beam,
Lake after lake interminably gleam ;"
and looked round us into the distance, and spoke of
this reraote spot or that, whilst the ground we stood
upon, like the unregarded present, was neither men
tioned or thought of.
Last week I promised to accompany Mr. Guy
and his new wife to "Richmond and Twickenham. 1
persuaded Mrs. Mortimer to be of the party; and as
we were too many for the carriage, it was arranged
that we should go by one of the river steam-boats, and
embark at a place called Hungerford, where they are
buUding a bridge- — by inches it would appear. I had
a dislike to this party, and would fain have been
excused; I thought of twenty modes of escape, none of
them perfectly immaculate, so at last I made up my
mind to go, and think no more of it; the reality of
an annoyance often proves raore tolerable than the pre
vious dread; raany a man, it has been said, rushes into
the danger to get rid of the apprehension.
Mrs. Mortimer and I walked to Mrs. Guy's apart
ments in Waterloo Place, and we were to proceed to the
place of embarkation on foot, it being no great dis
tance. Mrs. Guy informed us that her caro sposo was
at an hotel hard by, whither he had been summoned to
meet one of his countrymen on important business, and

AN AMERICAN LADY. H]
we would call for him. This was not very agreeable,
but so it was settled; we called, accordingly, and I
suppose by some mistake of the waiter, were shewn at
once into a room where sat Mr. Guy alone. Said I
alone? He was solaced by a cigar, and beside him
stood a goblet which had contained some dark beverage.
The surprise was perfect — he was taken in tbe manner,
"backward his step he drew.
As loath that care or tumult should approach
Those early rites divine."
Mrs. Walter seemed inclined to debate upon the spot
this infraction of the no-tobacco obligation, which was
a collateral part of the marriage ceremony — but we
hurried away and got on board, having to go along a
rude, rocking, wooden way, to a primitive sort of pier.
Seated, I was at Mrs. Guy's mercy; and mercy on
me! JuUa, I was not spared. The whole statistics of
her Edinburgh establishment in the late Mr. Mac  's
time, were obligingly laid before me — the footmen's
'wages with hveries — the housemaids' without tea — the
cost of hebdomadal butchery (as our schoolmaster
acquaintance might call it), bakery and chandlery —
and grievous complaints of the enormous sums paid
wine and spirit merchants, which, she sighed, made her
a widow at last ! Her system of dress on this Rich
mond occasion was simple, its effect compound, as it
was a blending of as many hues as possible on the
human form divine; bonnet, veil, scarf, gown, gloves
and boots varied in colour; jewellery was not spared,
and in the sunshine the blaze was perfect.

112 LETTERS FROM
We went through several bridges. The fhst was
Westminster, a heavy stone structure they appear
always to be repairing ; over it the tide of population
flowed fully, whilst across Vauxhall, an iron bridge at a
little distance, were hardly any passers — a very Medi
terranean in its tidelessness; I concluded it was a toll
bridge. Then came Battersea and Fulham bridges,
rude wooden piles for a metropolitan vicinity — a hand
some suspension bridge at Hammersmith — Kew and
Richmond bridges, both stone.
We passed Chelsea Hospital in our progress— an
asylum for decayed soldiers — I have not seen over it,
but can picture the veterans bronzed by many a
scorching sun in Egypt, India, the Spanish Peninsula,
and France. Sion House, one of the seats of tbe
wealthy Duke of Northumberland (the Percy family),
is by the river side; there are a number of elegant
villas beside, fine swans in the river much admired by
the cockneys, and a few pleasure-boats. The banks of
the Thames, up the river, as it is called, are beautiful—
that is, not bold, but English beauty, green, trim and
highly cultivated.
In my ignorance I expected that "thyhiU, dehghtful
Sheen," was actually a green hill or hillock — but the
dusty road is carried to the summit of what they caU
the hiU, and the view is fine indeed; the river
is the principal charm in the landscape, and the eye
wanders delightedly over rich woods and a smiling
country; the haze prevented our espying W'indsor

AN AMERICAN LADY. 113
Castle in the distance. Thomson certainly used a
poet's license when with his Amanda his raptured
eye would " sweep
The boundless landscape."
He a Scotchman too ! But bis thoughts, like his style,
are diffuse. Mr. Guy pronounced the prospect "a
smart eye-fuU," and Mrs. Guy, that it was "very well
for the sooth." The river serpentines a little near the
base of Richmond HiU, and a small island presents
a pleasant and verdant aspect; it is visited by the
cockney pic-nic parties, and bears the appropriate
name of Eel-pie Island. Of course we visited the
church, and Thomson's grave (I resist the temptation
to quote CoUins's "Druid" lines) — the bard is buried
inside the church, and there is a small plain tablet to
his memory. Mrs. Guy felt interested in the last rest
ing place of her countryman, and had seen Ednam, the
town of his birth. In the churchyard is a monument
to Edmund Kean, who died and is interred at Rich
mond — his socks, in the opinion of most people here,
are yet unfilled — I wish one could visit those places
alone — life was indeed a fitful fever with poor Kean.
We walked a little way in the park — (there is no palace
now), and enjoyed the quiet around us. The flaunting
taste of the mere Londoner has not infected Richmond,
it is a proper off-shoot from a wealthy metropolis.
The rain prevented our visiting Twickenham and
Pope's villa and grotto, or rather their site; his grave and
f2

114 LETTERS FROM
monument are in Twickenham church. Were it not
that churches and monuments are stationary and
cannot very well be cut or sliced away (it has been
done though) to make room for stucco, I think Eng
land, or rather Middlesex, would have few memorials
left of tbe illustrious dead, save such as their works
which defy the rage of man will ever afford.
We dined at the famed Star and Garter Hotel, the
dinner was elegant, and elegantly served. I am told,
and can well believe, that the great object of the Lon
don people in their country excursions is to dine. The
question being not so much "Where shall we go?" as
"Where shaU we dine?" Rather— "What would you
like to eat?" than — "What would you hke to see?"
Eating is an individual, a self enjoyment, and is there
fore highly popular in England — they protract the
dinner when they ruralise, to get through the day.
Mr." Guy was quiet and very attentive to all, and
Mrs. Guy to all — but her husband. He was perform
ing quarantine before he could be admitted into her
good graces — on propitiation, as it were — I do not
doubt he would most readily and perseveringly have
smoked the calumet of peace, a custom which he un
questionably considers worthy of civUised man.
We returned, greatly against my will, by one of
those conveyances praised for the cheapness of theii'
discomfort, an omnibus. I hope never to enter one
again; a lady has the choice of sitting in a corner
next the horses and being stifled, fqr London journeyers

AN AMERICAN LADY. 115
have a great objection to air, and generally keep the
vrindow glasses, or part of them, up — some rotund
person redolent of wine insisting upon it on the plea
of delicate health — or, if she must have air, she may
sit next the door and have every passenger crush past
her, no matter how she may shrink from the contact,
whilst during the journey, the figure of the conductor
often fills up the open space and excludes any air
but — pah! garlick is better. The choice of these
eligible places depends upon your being first in tbe
omnibus, otherwise you must settle as you can. Of
course the gentlemen omnibusers think only of their
own accommodation. Mr. Dickens tells us, that
during his journey from Pittsburgh to Cincinnati,
on board the steam-boat, "there was no sociality
except in spitting;" in a London omnibus there is
no sociality in any thing, except in grumbling now
and then.
By-the-by, I must tell you that I once or twice saw
Mrs. Guy slUy indulge in a pinch of snuff— veritable
tabac, dainty Miss Julia! though she might pretend it
was Grimstone's eye-snuff. Now, why should she
object to the marital tobacco? Do not suppose for a
moment that snuffing is common to British ladies,
quite the reverse, and that despite the example of Queen
Charlotte — you should read Madame d' Avblay on the
duties of the regal snuff-box. The English ladies have
no such habits — the custom may once have been preva
lent and fashionable, more or less; some of the last

116 LETTERS FROM
century writers lead one to think so. The Tatler, amid
the good advice he gave his fair young sister Jenny
before her marriage, "made her relinquish her snuff
box for ever, and half drown herself vrith washing away
the scent of the musty."
What a long letter; but you must not complain of
ray having taxed your patience — your patience, indeed!
Think of mine. Ever, etc.

AN AMERICAN LADY. 117

LETTER XIIL

RESPECTABLE VERSUS "SMART  ENGLISH DOMESTIC SERVANTS
 ELISHA  SUMPTUARY LAW AMONG SERVANTS  KATHLEEN o'
REILLY  THE TALLY  " AN OLD TALE AND OFTEN TOLD.''

My Dearest Julia, London,  1843.
It appears from Mr. Dickens's account that
to be " smart" is the quahty or phrase covering a multi
tude of sins in America — (here, it is to be " respectable."
" I wonder," say I, " to see a man like Mr.  in
society, is he not known to be a worthless husband; an
avaricious and tyrannical father, and constantly in dis
reputable quarrels?" — "Very true, but then he's such
a respectable man." "And Mr.  , I am told his
fortune has been made by strange means, and many
attribute their ruin to his plausibility." — "Yes, but he's
a very respectable man too."
None of the dictionaries define " respectable" as it is
understood now; it means "rich." When, people in
England "plate sin with gold," it is sin no longer.
In nothing, perhaps, is there a wider difference
betwixt London and New York, than in the character

118 letters from
and treatment of domestic servants. In London, you
see very few people of colour; now and then a black in
a shining livery, and there are frequently two or three
iu regimental bands to play the cymbals, and look
Moorish. It was some little while before my eye became
accustomed to the complexional uniformity ofthe streets.
Among feraale domestic servants I never heard of any
woman of colour; with all their fine professions, tbe
English of all classes dislike communion with negroes as
much as, or raore than other people. Were England a
horae for the free blacks, there would surely be numbers
from the West India Islands, frora British Guiana, and
elsewhere. The few negro raen to be found in England
are principally eraployed, as I have shewn you, for pur
poses of parade.
Don't let me forget, whilst it is in my recollection, to
request you to tell Mr. C  that Elisha, the RoseviUe
man he wrote to me about, was found after some diffi
culty by a person my sohcitor employed.
Do you remember the English lady, Mrs. Colonel 
who was in New York when we were girls, and how we
admired her turbans, and wondered at the immutability
of her roses? (I don't mean those in her bonnet).
Well, her husband brought with him to England a
mulatto, who soon entered into the service of tbe
Colonel's uncle, and his kind master dying a few years
after bequeathed by wUl to « his faithful negro, Ehsha,"
six shUlings weekly for his life— this is the man in
question. The executor, who was also the heir, demurred

AN AMERICAN LADY. 119
to the payment of this bequest, because the legatee
was described as a negro, but was actuaUy a mulatto !
Perhaps his lawyer told this scrupulous- minded gentle
man, that equity would see no colour for withholding
the legacy, and the law might compel the payment, as
Ehsha could easUy procure a " respectable " solicitor to
undertake the case; so the poor mulatto received and
continues to receive the weekly allowance. Tell Mr.
C  (itwUl save me the trouble of writing), that he
need not expect this man to send any money to his
sickly sister in RoseviUe, for he has only this ten-pence
a day — (how much is it?) to live upon, besides any
trifle he may earn or beg, and I grieve to say, Elisha is
inordinately fond of gin. I once sent him five shiUings,
to be withheld, unless he promised faithfully not to
drink .a cent, I mean a farthing, of it in any public-
house; he promised, and straightway purchased two
bottles of his favourite beverage at some spirit mer
chant's, and drank it every drop in his own room ! An
ingenious casuist. — I have been told he wheedles poor
girls and silly boys out of a few pence now and then,
by telling them their fortunes !
The female servants here are a distinct class, kept at
far greater distance than young "helps" in America
would tolerate for a moment; living principally in areas,
with their hours of church or chapel-going, and of fresh
air, as methodically apportioned as their wages. A
sumptuary law prevails among them, I mean that it is
the custom of the country to proscribe certain articles

120 letters from
of apparel to the lower grade of servants, for of course
there is an aristocracy in servitude and the line of
demarcation is broadly marked and rigidly observed.
The housemaid raay not use a veil or a parasol, but
they seera proper to the lady's-maid; perhaps the
housemaid is a fair girl, to whom a walk in the sun
shine is most assured freckles, whilst the lady's-maid
might prodigaUy unveil ber beauty to a hotter sun than
Great Britain's, as she is already darker than -a Spanish
peasant — no raatter, the rule must be observed, and I
believe it is one of the few rules that know no ex
ceptions. There are raany stipulations in hiring these
servants — a very common one is, that they " shall find
their own tea and sugar," and they generally do con
trive to find them somewhere or other about their master's
house; another is that " no followers shall be allowed,"
that is, no sweethearts; the course of true love must
not flow, either smoothly or disturbedly, into kitchens
and sculleries; great numbers of "no follower" servants,
notwithstanding the prohibition, obtain husbands-
marriages between the male and female domestics in
large establishments are not unfrequent, whilst flirta
tions with milkmen, bakers, butchers, fishmongers, and
others, through the area rails, are considered things of
course, with policemen raost especiaUy of aU.
Sometimes female servants continue many years in
one place, but not frequently; the attachment that used
to subsist between master and servant, and which in
many country places might be the relic of a feudal

AN AMERICAN LADY. 121
clanship, is known no longer, or in only a faint degree ;
nor do I think there is any thing like the attached feel
ing to the family, often manifested by negresses in the
slave states of America. Do not think the worse of the
female domestics of England if they are generally selfish ;
recoUect, the character of menials is formed by that
of their principals. A really good intelligent Enghsh
servant is indeed a treasure, which an American can
weU and almost enviously appreciate.
These females are sometimes harshly treated, and in
cessantly employed, there being little intermission in
their labour, in lodging-houses especially, from early
morning untU nearly midnight; sometimes they have very
little to do, and if children become attached to them
in many instances they seem almost members of the
family. These servants talk of "hard" or "easy" places.
When a girl is old or big enough to endure the
fatigues of serrice, she is pronounced able "to make
place." The very ciril man who drives my monthly
job, was praised by his master as one "who knew a coach
well" — that is, was skilful in tbe management of it.
The English laugh at what they call Americanisms, but
these expressions, and many much stranger, pass un
noticed; they are a people eminently skilful in not
seeing what is immediately before their eyes.
When I first occupied these apartments (I will be
" at home " to you now) the girl, whose sole business
it is to wait upon me, my rooms, and my humours,
was one whose countenance was not a letter of recom-

122 LETTERS FROM
mendation, but of repulsiveness and bad temper — and
very plainly were the characters written. I can only
describe her character by contraries; or to speak
learnedly and astonish you — antithetically. She Was
smart and sluttish, cringing and impudent — "an imper
tinent mixture of busy and idle." She left in a fort
night to be married! Yes, lady of many foUowers
(come, I will fit you with a word) to be married!
Where have I seen it written, "II n'y a point de belles
prisons, ni de laides amours ?" Mr. Dickens would seem
to belie the first part of the sentence in his account
of some prisons in the States, but then he only spoke
en amateur. Well, Sarah was married to a butcher's
assistant, poor man! and Kathleen served in her stead.
Kathleen O'Reilly is a blushful, neat, nice-looking,
well-mannered Irish girl, so wishful to please that she
really anticipates my wants; but I am much, or rather
have been much, abroad and in company, and her
duties are not very onerous; she never loses her temper
the mistress of the house told me, unless when the
other servants, in right English feeling, twit her with
being Irish. One day in the first fortnight I knew
Kathleen, she was evidently in deep distress. I
inquired the cause, and it was on account of her sister
— a married sister deserted by her husband, left with
one chUd, and supporting herself by working for some
upholsterer. Poor Kathleen's slender purse was soon
exhausted in her behalf; and when her feelings are
strongly called forth, so is her brogue.

AN AMERICAN LADY. 123
" And shure, ma'am, its only seven shillin' a week
she can earn, and that's only two to live upon, and the
chUd, God save him! never goes without the bit and
sup, and it's after starvin' she is."
[Here was a bm-st of tears; but the statement was
rather incomprehensible, or as a satirical person would
say, very Irish.]
"WeU, but Kathleen, earn seven shillings, and only
two to hve upon, how is that?"
"Ah! and indeed, ma'am, it's true; there's the bit
of a room, and she must live in a dacent place, and
scorns to trouble the hard English neighbours, that's
two shUhn', and the tallyman's three shillin', and the
two's aU that 's in it after that."
[This was the interpretation, but, as has happened
before with interpretations, it was the more difficult to
understand of the two.J
"The tallyman, who is he?"
" Just Mr. Greenfield's man, ma'am."
"And who's Mr. Greenfield?"
" Shure and isn't he the master, and it's strict he is
and won't be put off though he's as rich as the lord."
[I quite started, but must acquit poor Kathleen of
any intentional impiety; she is a native of the county
of Mayo, her father was a groom of Lord Sligo's, and
he was tbe lord she meant; if such titles must be, why
they lead to a sound of profaneness.]
"Well, butwAaHshe?"
"Arrah, ma'am, and isn't he the tally?"

124 LETTERS FROM
"And what is the taUy?"
But I must give you the definition in my own way.
It seems that there are a great many tradesmen in
London who sell wares of all kinds on tally, that is, the
purchaser has to defray the cost of the goods by weekly
instalments of a fixed sum; now as the seUer must run
considerable risk, his customers changing their resi
dence, or otherwise defrauding him, he no doubt
charges an exorbitant profit, and the poor are by this
system tempted to buy beyond their means, thinking it
only so much a week and they can spare it somehow;
whilst if scant employment or reduced wages follow,
the tally-bUl takes the very bread out of their mouths,
and the goods so obtained, and to be paid for in two
weary months, are perhaps pawned, or (as my Oxford-
street acquaintance calls it) flued for a sum little
exceeding a fortnight's purchase. Then, as the enjoy
ment of the tally purchase is no longer experienced,
the payment becomes exceeding irksome, and tbe
temptation to shirk it altogether almost irresistible,
and so ensue prevarication, trickery, and recklessness.
I hope this system has not yet found its way into
America, for it seems to me a very bad one, encouraging
both rapacity and improvidence. I assisted poor
Kathleen; and she, with her sister, waited upon Mr.
Greenfield, and after a long debate, when they all
three, Kathleen told me, spoke together, he agreed to
take nine shillings in one payment, in lieu of six
weekly payments of three shillings, and the sum was

AN AMERICAN LADY. 125
paid, and the tyranny of the tally ceased to oppress
Mrs. Margaret Mahoney.
This very morning as I spoke of leaving England,
Kathleen bewailed it, and I then told her, as I had
intended for some time, I should be very glad if she
would accompany me and remain in my service in
New York. But, — "'tis an old tale and often told,"
but — there was a young man who was a ship-carpenter
at Portsmouth, etc. etc. etc. Well, Julia, one can't
but sympathise with her. May her wedding, poor
girl, be happier than mine. But I must not dwell
upon that subject, and so must close my letter.
Ever, etc.

126 LETTERS FROM

LETTER XIV.

DRESS-MAKERS  EXETER - HALL ORATORY  EVILS INFLICTED ON
DRESS-MAKERS UNREDRESSED, THE WRONG BEING ONLY IN
LONDON  OTHERWISE IF A DISTANT CITY  LOWELL OFFERING
 AMERICANS "KNOW NOT SEEMS "  PREVALENT VULGARISMS.—
MR. W. C.

Dearest Julia, London,  1843.
I closed my last letter rather abruptly when
I was about to tell you that numbers of young women
come annually from the provinces to the Metropohs,
to obtain situations as domestic servants. In remote
parts it is more than probable London is regarded as
an El Dorado. So and so went to London, and did so
weU, and rode in her own carriage, why not others?
"'Twas ever thus, from chUdhood's hour," we all
hope, and hope, and hope to be better, greater,
happier; and it may be weU it is so, for hope itseff is
often happiness.
Besides these, numbers corae hither for a term to
improve themselves, as it is caUed, in milhnery and
dress-making, or hoping to obtain permanent employ
ment at their needles. There are so very many of this

AN AMERICAN LADY. 127
class, that the glut of work-people, to speak com
mercially, enables the dress-makers to engage assistants
on their own terms — if one girl, bolder or more san
guine than others, demurs, twenty are ready to accept
the offer — no matter how insufficient. The treatment
of many of these poor young girls is almost incredibly
bad; dm-ing the fashionable season they are often
compeUed to work fourteen, sixteen, eighteen, twenty
hours out of the four-and-twenty! Often in crowded
and Ul-ventUated apartments; nor is there the hope of
commensurate reward to sweeten the inordinate toil —
nor can the making of fine dresses for the gay and
prosperous be accounted a labour to delight in, so that
the pain may be physicked and unfelt, and the work
rapidly and happUy brought to a conclusion. On tbe
contrary, I fear the thoughts of the splendour and
luxury that will surround the happy wearers of these
robes, on which the midnight needle is plied sleepily
and painfuUy, may tempt the poor drudge — who may
be vain, weak, and pretty too — to long for, and seek
the enjoyment of idleness and amusement at any risk,
at any sacrffice. Of all the ills that ensue from this
system, perhaps consumption is the least !
The facts are notorious, the grievance is admitted;
but as the evil cries out at tbeir very doors, of course
the English have not taken one single step to abate it.
A few letters in the papers and a report appear now
and then, but their writers have been humane to little
purpose (greater is their merit), and their productions

128 LETTERS FROM
are read and disregarded, whilst the distress in Madeira
and Antigua called forth the active exertions of tbe
charitable Enghsh. Nothing but a legislative enact
ment will do good; for without that the English never
remedy any social evil among themselves, that is, any
eril which is in the way of business, and from which
profit accrues to capitalists and "respectable" traders.
Parliament, which the English rather profanely pro-
nounqe omnipotent, interferes to prevent manufacturers
working young children to distortion or death, to
prevent the employment of women amidst unwholesome
vapours iu mines; and without parliamentary inter
ference these things had gone forward unchecked. 0
tender and compassionate people!
If it had happened that the sufferings of these poor
dress-makers pertained to a distant city — to Calcutta,
for instance, and not to London — long ago would the
British public have been called to "a sense of tbeir
duty" (I believe that is the phrase) ; Exeter HaU would
have been vocal with the indignant declamation of the
gentlemen and the softly-sighed sympathy of the ladies.
"What!" some popular and curled darling of an orator
would have said, " are we men, are we Christians, nay,
are we human? Has our infancy known a mother's
care, our childhood a mother's precepts, our youth a
sister's affection, our manhood a wife's devotion, our
age a daughter's solace? — And pause we a moment to
redress this wrong, this insult to universal woman?"
[Here the orator would cease, to wipe his brow, gather

AN AMERICAN LADY. 129
breath, and give time for the applause.] " Even whilst
I speak" (he would resume), " the injury exists and
increases; this plague-spot on our common humanity
festers worse, and spreads more widely. Oh ! then let
England, glorious England, speak peace across the
ocean; let her say to the luxurious and cruel and
scoffing and distant Asiatic city — this shall no longer
be! — Oh! let our meeting to-day be as the olive-branch
the dove bore to the ark; let it portend the subsiding
of the swollen waters of tyranny ; the restoration of
virtuous ease and domestic happiness, and long and
greenly may they flourish! Let us not delay the
blessed work a single week — said I a week? Not a
day, an hour, a moment. Can we ever hope to prosper
if we are longer quiescent, longer supine? No; to
tolerate crime is to be participant." — And so on, amid
the flutter of moistened handkerchiefs, would the
eloquent gentleman proceed, only much more finely
and figuratively, to the end of the chapter. And others
would dehver smart little lectures from the text,
" He who allows oppression, shares the crime ;"
and then would be resolutions, and subscriptions, and
treasurerships, and secretaryships, honorary and cor
responding, and a committee, and thanks, and much
print. Some good might flow out of all this; but as
the eril is only in London, it must work its own cure.
Sensibility, you know, always goes from home for its
objects; vulgar sickness, or privation revolts it. Sterne
bewaUed a dead ass, and it is said neglected a living

130 LETTERS FROM
mother — his example has not been lost upon tbe
country. I believe a few benevolent ladies do inquire of
fashionable dress - makers, if their employees are thus
cruelly dealt with, and are of course assured that their
assistants, all being persons of the best character, and
of unsurpassed, if not unequalled skill, can command
very high salaries, and enjoy any healthful or even
elegant recreation. This statement is ingeniously two
fold — it satisfies the well-meaning inquirer, while the
skilful introduction of the extraordinary cleverness and
liberal remuneration of the work-people accounts a little
for the not very trifling sum total of the yearly bill;—
and so the good lady says that her own, or her daugh
ters' dresses, must be ready for Lady A.'s ball, or tbe
Earl of B.'s dinner-party, or Mrs. Cs soiree dansanie
— and the matter ends.
The remuneration received by those who support
themselves as sempstresses in this country wiU always
be very trifling; for there are so many institutions
where plain needlework is done at very low rates,
and so many private families where there are several
daughters at home, anxious to earn a pittance to
eke out any slender allowance they may have from
their father in addition to their maintenance, that
high wages are out of the question. But is this any
reason why nothing should be done to help those em
ployed almost entirely by the rich, and on work where
taste and quickness are indispensable — " midst fm'S and

AN AMERICAN LADY. 131
silks, and jewels sheen;" work that cannot be under
taken by school or charity girls, however skilful in the
management of tbe threaded steel? The benevolent
public have not held a single concert, ball, or bazaar, to
help these suffering countrywomen — why, some little
sensation might be created by an announcement that a
fancy fair, tbe proceeds to go in aid of a society to
amend the condition of young needle-women, would be
held in such a place, and some of the articles veritably
the work of young and pretty dress-makers, who had
often laboured thirty-six hours without sleep or inter
mission. I acknowledge that the English do not say,
¦'E'en let them die, for that they're born."
I have heard ladies in England express great dissatis
faction at Mr. Dickens's account (written in a not
unkindly spirit), of the factory girls at Lowell; that is,
not of his account, but of their condition. Certainly,
the same things cannot be imputed to the female popu
lation of England employed in manufactures; for Mr.
Dickens represents our countrywomen of Lowell, as
well-dressed, clean, healthy-looking, modest and intelli
gent—qualities of which no one can accuse female
Manchester; but then the joint-stock piano, and the
circulating library, and "The Lowell Offering!"
" Well, but," I contend, " where is the harm ? Are
music and books to be enjoyed only by the rich?"
"Oh! I don't know, these things don't seem proper
for their station — really, mill-girls can have no business
with pianos."

132 LETTERS FROM
"Yes, but, as their work is quite as well and as
regularly done as if they could not read a page, or
play a note; and as they incur no debt, and are not
even accused of the least immodesty or impropriety of
any kind — Sam Slick represents them as rather
prudish — I do not see why they should be blamed for
enjoying their tunes, or their reading, or even for con
tributing to a periodical. On the contrary, I think
they deserve high commendation for having tastes
refined enough to enable them to accomplishand delight
in these things."
" But surely you do not approve of three miles and
a half of factory girls with their parasols and sUk stock
ings?" " Indeed," I pertinaciously continue, " I see nothing
in it but a very harmless display, — come, we must not
be too severe upon a little love of finery in our sex —
perhaps it might be hot weather at Lowell, and no
girl in any situation of life likes to incur the risk of a
sun-burnt nose."
"Well, it raay be so— I don't pretend to understand
these things, but it seems so odd."
That very "seems so odd," appears to be the fuU
extent of their offending. HappUy in America we
"know not seems," at least we don't care about it.
Well would it be for Lancashire and Yorkshire, if the
same could be said ofthe females employed there— if a
hke compliment could be paid to Queen Victoria, should
she visit any of her great manufacturing towns; silken

AN AMERICAN LADY. loO
must be less culpable than unwashed or tattered hose.
"Bam my mother," Mr. Dickens, much to his surprise
heard an elderly gentleman say in America. I heard
a Lancashhe lady say, if the mill girls in her native
town would do as much to their stockings, it would be,
an important improvement.
I wonder Mr. Dickens should manifest surprise that
a person's mother was mentioned in any manner what
ever; for the inquiries about mothers are, or used to be
incessant among the London vulgar. A stranger might
at first have thought the English a very filial people,
but he would soon find out aU was in derision — and a
very sorry symptom it is. The labouring classes here,
and even many who have the virtue to be rich, always
have some pet phrase; its chief recommendation being
that, properly, it is inapplicable to any subje<?t,- and is
therefore, applied universally. At one time any thing
improbable, was declared to be "all round my bat."
The American actor, ilr. Rice, taught the English to
"turn about and wheel about and do just so" — then
there were frequent allusions to persons known as
Walker and Mr. Ferguson; I forget how applied, and
simultaneously with — but I protest you are laughing at
me, Juha, at least " you smile,
I see you, you profane one, all the while,''
and ask how / know all these things. I, whom you
used to call aristocrat, and the Lady Harriet ! Why, I
hear and read of them, and as " I must needs report

134 LETTERS FROM
the truth," I sometimes inquire of those whom I con
sider skilful in such abstrusities, and when I know the
things are, and tell you of them, I need not preface
them with "I am informed," or "it is said," or
"Messrs. A. B. C. or D. assured me" so and so. There
is humour in the popular vulgarisms of Ireland; mean
ing, in those of America (I need hardly tell you when
I say America, I almost always mean the United
States); but in England, they "never deviate into
sense." Mr. Dickens met some Englishmen, small farmers
or publicans, travelling in the United States, surpass
ing Yankees in being disagreeable. And "apropos
desbottes," or "betes" if you will, the other evening
I had the misfortune to encounter Mr. W. C. 
you know the man, or have heard of him. I cannot
tell how he gained admittance into the circle where
I met him, for he professes to despise as frivolous all
wit, and the "belles lettres" generally; this is because
the pompous fool (and numbers resemble bim in the
profession and the plea for it) has not capacity to enjoy
the elegances of life or literature; whether his brow
or intellect be narrower I cannot determine, I almost
wished for a gentleman's privilege to — I don't know
what. He answered all questions about America by
detailing some paltry mishap of his own in this country;
he defended — what am I saying, he pretended to justify
slavery, by narrating tbe half-finished history of some
negro groom, which was admirably inapplicable, as tbe

AN AMERICAN LADY. 135
mathematician said of Paradise Lost — it proved nothing;
and when he spoke of the war-like spirit which shewed
itself some while back, according to him, in the United
States — and how, if Americans were insulted by the
British, and there should be war. — "You mean, sir, I
presume," interrupted Sir  "if war should unhappily
take place, in consequence of some national misunder
standing." " Whether the war arose," said the prosy
idiot, " from a national or personal misunderstanding"
— I would hear no more — I felt quite sick — Oh ! why did
he come to bestow his ignorance upon the people of
London — of course they vrill be ready enough to repre
sent him as a fair specimen of our country, which most
assuredly he is not. Ever, etc.

Note. — It is proper to state that when this letter was in course
of publication, the papers announced the establishment of an
"Association for the Aid and Protection of Dress-makers and
Milliners." As the names of many ladies of rank appear as
annual subscribers of ten or twenty shillings ; it is to be hoped
with such means and under such patronage, the benevolent pur
pose will be fuUy effected.

136 LETTERS FROM

LETTER XV.

CHURCHYARDS  HORRORS OF CITY-SEPULTURE — VILLAGE CHURCH
YARDS  FLOWER-GARDEN CEMETERIES — KENSAL GREEN — MR.
MORISON  QUACKERY  ABNEY PARK  INDIA HOUSE — TREATIES
OF CESSION FROM HINDOOS AND OTHER ORIENTALS— WORSHIP OF
JUGGERNAUT AND GATES OF SOMNAUTH TO BE CONDUCIVE TO
CHRISTIANITY IN THE EAST  LONDON CITIZENS — EASILY DIS
TINGUISHABLE  SPECULATION IN THEIR EYES — QUAKERS —
JEWS.

Dearest Julia, London,  1843.
Mr. Dickens somewhere teUs of the church
yards looking new in America. You cannot possibly
picture anything so revolting as the old burial-grounds
of London; they are old but most unvenerable— nature
herself seems to droop and sicken in such places— if
there be a few blades of grass, they are not green, but
of an unhealthy yellow. Some of these places adjoin
great thoroughfares, where the hum of busy life never
ceases; some are in strange nooks and corners, as if
death were ashamed of his domain, and sought to hide
it; sometimes the entire surface of the churchyard or
burial-ground, for there are several apart from the

.¦i.i\ AJlI;Ji^lUAJ\ -LiAD y .

137

churches, is covered with flat or raised tomb-stones;
they do not look like resting-places; they present
nothing holy, nothing that tells of repose, no simple
daisy, a tribute and emblem from early spring, grows ou
a child's grave; no green hillock with its mossy head
stone; nothing to induce calm musing — to teach the
" city moralist to die." The poor can render no visits
of affection — all they have to give — to the graves of
parent, child, wife, or husband, for they are undistin
guishable in the mortal mass; indeed, the dead of all
classes in many of these places are like the tyrant and
slave in the poem, and —
"grossly familiar, side by side consume."
I had not been long in London when I heard of new
and beautiful burial-grounds, and in lovely situations;
and in my un-English simplicity fancied these raust be
national undertakings — district cemeteries,
" Far from the busy crowd's tumultuous din.
From noise and wrangling far, and undisturb'd
With Mirth's unholy shouts;"
quiet places, where tbe dead might at least be decently
interred, and the old and over-crowded receptacles over
crowded no further.
I did the English injustice; only a roraantic girl
(which I am not) I was told could fancy new cemeteries
would be laid out, ih no profit were to accrue; these
highly -praised places are one and all commercial
speculations; where the wealthy can buy vaults or
grave-steads, as they can buy houses or land. The
g2

138 letters from
sepulture of the poor is still unamended; untaught in
his youth— uncared-for in his age, what matters it
where or how the poor man experiences the common
lot of dust to dust?
The farther you proceed from London, the less
crowded and unsightly these places are, and the distant
viUage churchyards are often such green and tranquil
spots; a grey and ruined abbey by their side perhaps,
itself a fitting type of decay and death; or a small clear
river may flow at the churchyard's foot, whUe the
breeze stirs the funereal yew, and blends with the water's
murmur in melancholy cadence.
I was particularly impressed with the aspect of one,
many miles hence, and when I was Ul and thought my
bones would rest in a foreign, though not unkindred
land, I had determined there I would be interred; an
idle wish, some would say, as if the inanimate body
were subject to skyey influences, and felt the dews and
odours of rural summer, when it would sleep just as
soundly in its hot city grave. Be that as it may, the
wish is natural; and I never argue with your mere
utilitarian, who can only argue when others feel.
Thank God, I am now well.
I have visited two of these new cemeteries in differ
ent directions from London, Kensal Green and Abney
Park; they are simply large flower-gardens, and some
of the graves little flower-beds. One of the English
poets — I believe the present laureate (Wordsworth) —
describes a class of his countrymen as men —

an AMERICAN LADY. 139
" who would crawl and botanise
Upon their mother's grave." ,
These cemeteries can afford botanic London means of
carrying this predUection into practice. I have often
thought that on many of the graves in Pere-la-Chaise,
where is displayed very high-flown sentiment, very
prettily-worded sorrow, artificial flowers are the most
appropriate — but I am to write of London, not of
Paris. There are a good many monuments in Kensal Green,
and the ground is intersected with nice gravel walks,
and many well-dressed parties were strolling about
(principaUy ladies) and chatting gaily as they watched
the trains rush rapidly along the Great Western Rail
way — what a distance one hears their clatter! It has
been said, "In the midst of hfe we are in death;" but
here the reverse seemed inculcated, for there were
steam-carriages and cheerful idlers, and man's trim
and careful hand everywhere, as who should say, " In
the raidst of death we are in life."
Greatly to my surprise, no fee was exacted as we
entered; perhaps if these death-gardens becorae fashion
able promenades, the proprietors may charge for ad
mittance; there is plenty of precedent — why should
their monuments be viewed gratuitously? Why should
they not seU their fresh air as weU as their flowery
ground? I think I never told you before, that in all,
I suppose in all, places like these, as well as in the
Zoological Gardens, in the Regent's Park, etc. etc., are

140 LETTERS FROM
placed a number of painted boards containing respectful
requests that the visitors will refrain from plucking the
flowers, etc. How is this ? Why, in so very civilized
— I beg their pardon, so very polished a community,
are these constant prohibitions necessary? Recollect,
flower-loving but never flower-stealing Julia, the rabble
— the mere vulgar, are no frequenters of these scenes.
One of the most reraarkable mausoleums, if I may
use the word, in Kensal Green, is tbe family tomb of
James Morison, the Hygeist; this was the originator of
the famed Morison's pills, a medicine that was recom
mended with an assurance and hardihood that com
manded success and riches. If the first dose failed,
the second was to be an increased quantum, and the
third a further increase, and so on adding to the dose
until tbe illness ceased — and cease it infallibly would,
one way or the other. I forgot how many men Mr.
Morison constantly employed in tbe manufacture of
these pills; they were, or are, in demand by this
enlightened people by wagon-loads. These things
always find their way across the Atlantic. In England
a quack never faUs unless he is untrue to himself, that
is, if he be not sufficiently outrageous in his professions;
let him promise, and persevere in promising the im
possible — let him screw his courage to that point, and
he'll not faU; the yearly sum expended in advertise-
raents alone by some of those venders of nostrums (the
value of which they assert, and truly, is unknown and
incredible), must be immense.

AN AMERICAN LADY. 141
It seemed to me very bad policy to erect a monument
at all to Mr. Morison, especially in this open manner;
it should have been left to the public to believe, as they
wUl believe any thing, that his pills would ensure him an
age running pretty considerably into another century.
Auother remarkable monument is to Saint John Long,
who was also an irregular practitioner, I beheve that is
the pohte appellation, famous in his day. A third is
Duci'ow's, the late proprietor or manager, I don't
know which, of Astley's Equestrian Amphitheatre; a
theatrical structure, I mean the monument.
Abney Park is of the same character. Dr. Isaac
Watts resided many years in the Manor House there, a
circumstance which is commemorated in the burial-
ground. I was told this Alanor House of Abney Park
is to be pulled down; as it is a perfect building, charac
teristic of a by-gone age, and as Watts dwelt there with
Sir Thomas Abney and his family, so many years, I
marvel it has been allowed to stand so long. These
cemetery companies advertise their respective terms,
and endeavour to shew their superiority of sepulture
over their rivals. "I'm told there's snug lying in the
Abbey," said Sir Lucius; but these people promise far
more than that, if not quite so plainly. I think
London with its boundless wealth might at least afford
a decent grave to its poor denizen, or even to its poor
visitor, for it is the last trouble he can cause; as it is,
he might almost as well be flung into a plague-pit,
such as De Foe describes. Some of the inscriptions

142 LETTERS FROM
on the tomb-stones in these model burial-grounds
appeared to me very indifferent English; but I am shy
in criticising English, although any unspelling English
man will criticise our American phrases; but one ought
to be diffident in criticism, for no less an authority
than Walker, of pronouncing memory, has pronounced
that an Englishman, to understand his own language
thoroughly, shovdd also understand French, Latin,
Greek, and — Hebrew.
I remember when we returned from Abney Park
we visited the India House; it is situated in Leaden-
hall-street, and open to visitors at certain hours on
Saturdays: here meet the Indian Governors — the
British merchants, who are literally princes. We saw a
collection of Eastern curiosities, the detail of which might
not interest you much. Mr. Dickens states the interest
he felt in viewing, at Harrisburg, the treaties between
the Indians and tbe Whites — the poor natives not
appending their signs manual, but graphic — a sketch
of the distinguishing sobriquet of the chief, the Great
Turtle, or the War Hatchet; indeed, the contemplation
of the ever-progressive change in the being and num
bers of the red men is most painful; but when of late
the North American Indians have agreed to the cession
of territories on terms stated, they have fully under
stood the nature of the compact.
Had I been of the bolder sex, I might have asked
them at the India House to gratify me with a sight of
the treaties of cession, on terms of purchase or exchange

AJ\ AMERICAN LADY. 143
agreed upon, between English officers and Hindoo
rulers. Really those who live in such a very glass
island, should not throw so many stones at the people
of other countries. I am convinced the Hindoos are
happier under the British rule than under that of their
fierce, treacherous, and cowardly native princes; but
the mildness or equity of the sway is no justification
of the means of its attainment — the means are easily
defined — a judicious mixture of force and fraud. The
Enghsh say their settlements are the harbingers of
civilization and Christianity throughout the East: to
derive revenue from the worship of Juggernaut, and to
restore the gates of Somnauth, seem odd ways of in
troducing Christianity; but 'tis an odd people. Some
one applied to England the poet's line on man —
" The riddle, jest, and glory of the world;"
the world may admit the claim of England to the two
first attributes, but as to its being " the glory " — tell it
in Paris — and my ears ache at the mere supposition of
the voluble negativeness, if there be such a word, that
would ensue.
Leadenhall-street is in the eastern part of the Metro
polis, "the City" as it is called, London proper, as dis
tinguished from Westminster, Marylebone, etc. This
is the head-quarters of trade — here are the men of
money — here the favoured worshippers and temple of
Mammon.
" Mammon, the least erected spirit that fell
From Heaven. "

144 LETTERS FROM
I have heard ladies say it was easy to distinguish a city
person from one of more western dwelling — they run
smaller; even the tradesmen are said to differ; the
citizens having less politeness, less manner, or as they
themselves, and perhaps truly consider it, being more
English; there is nothing in dress to distinguish them,
except perhaps that the citizens are a little finer; it is
their bustle, their look, their air; hke that Horatio
describes on the platform just after midnight, " it is a
nipping and au eager air." There, Julia dear, they say
what is far fetched — as well as dear bought — is good
for ladies, so you raust be pleased with my application
of Horatio's answer ! This air is exactly that of 
and  , and most of all  in New York.
Quakers are frequently seen in the city; but their
wealth bas given them carriages, horses, and pursuits,
at which George Fox or William Penn would groan
heavy groans. The Society of Friends it seems were
allowed privileges in England long before other dis
senters from the Established church. I once asked
Mr. N. why? He said they were always remarkable
for their integrity and peacefulness. "Yes," said I,
" but were there not the same good qualities in some
other sects?" "0! I dare say there might; but then
the Quakers were always a wealthy class." It was
needless to inquire further, the privileges were fully
accounted for. How amazingly strong must be the
prejudice against the Jews in this country, when even
their wealth, with its inalienable respectability, has not

AN AMERICAN LADY. 145
yet achieved what is called their emancipation! But
then we must consider that there are a great many
very poor persons among the Jews, and it is so very
difficult to draw the line in a legislative enactment, so
as to grant that to tbe fitness of riches which must be
denied to the sinful unsuitableness of poverty.
You think, if the English knew the strictures passed
upon them by foreigners, by quick-witted Frenchmen
especially, they would be surprised, and hurt; — "not a
jot, not a jot;" they would attribute all blame to envy
or malice; all praise they would consider becoming,
but faint; and let a general character of an Enghshman
be never so true, not one would cry, " that was leveled
at me." They smart at satire! They amend because
of friendly rebuke ! How little do you know what self-
conceit really is. Many of their own countrymen,
poets or preachers, tell them of their faults full freely,
and not one becomes less a thing of the narrowness or
assumption of self. The way in which children spell
the first personal pronoun is the very motto of a
southern Briton, " I, by itself, /." Ever, etc.

146 LETTERS FROM

LETTER XVL

QUEENS DRAWING-ROOM  PROCESSION  FOOTMEN — A TUFT-
HUNTER  THE POOR — ENGLISH AND ROMAN BENEVOLENCE —
ILLUMINATIONS  STREET CROWDS AND BADINAGE  BRIDGES —
BANKS OF THE THAMES EASTWARD  GREENWICH  PAINTED-
HALL  CHAPEL  COST OF THE EMBELLISHMENTS DWELT UPON —
SO VERY ENGLISH  INSTANCE OF GALLANTRY.

Dearest Julia, London,  1843.
Certainly it was a gorgeous sight, and in
England only could it be seen — what lines of carriages
along the streets — what silver plate about the horses,
and gold lace about the footraen — the coachmen with
new wigs, and the policemen in their best uniforms —
the crowd was in high good humour — it pleased the
Queen to hold a drawing-room — the morning smiled, and
all the world was gay — I saw the procession with some
friends from a balcony in St. James's-street. We
have sometimes thought in New York that the accounts
we heard of Great Britain's wealth might be exagge
rated — they now appear to me under the reality. Hour
after hour rolled by, and still rolled the carriages. A
very few hackney vehicles were in the line, and the
crowd seemed inclined to laugh at them as misplaced;
and I remarked, that the windows were generally up,

AN AMERICAN LADY. 147
as if they who proceeded to their Queen's presence at so
much a mile, or an hour, did not court the garish eye
of day. W"e could see into most of the carriages;
the ladies were beautiful, and the dresses as far as we
could observe, elegant and French, ostrich -feathers were
worn, tbe most stately of head-dresses; jewels blazed as
if the English magnates had a monopoly in diamonds,
as some of the Indian Maharajabs used to have. The
gentlemen wore court suits — a bag- wig, sword, and
knee-buckles being the chief variation from their ordi
nary costume; great numbers were in their professional
garbs, and in naval or military uniforms — blue, red,
and green — this diversity of dress must render the scene
much more picturesque.
It is said a Persian declared that the finest gentlemen
in London were those who rode behind carriages — but
it is finery run mad; such colours, such gUdings and
fringes about them, besides long canes and powdered
heads; hair-powder now is hardly worn at all, except
by livery-servants; perhaps some leader of ton may
bring it up again, if he finds himself becoming prema
turely grey; I wonder if hair-powder was the fashion in
Thomson's day — I think it must, or what means the
epithet I have marked —
" While, a gay insect in his summer-shine,
The fop, light fluttering, spreads his mealy wings.''
Nearly all the footmen were tall and young, and seemed
well qualified to do nothing with admirable grace. A
great many of the carriages, with their occupants, were

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known to Lieut. F. who was of our party. " That's
my Lord  ¦ what fine greys ! he 's worth 70,000/. a-year,
and saves more than half of it. And there's Sir John —
he's worth 20,000/." (pounds mind, and annually);
"and the next is Mr.  the Member for  , his
election, they say, cost him 4,000Z." — and so on. Lieut.
F., I was told afterwards, is " a tuft-hunter," a pursuer
of the great, who are not so easily caught raen say —
" Where'er their lordships go, they never find
Or Lico, or their shadows, lag behind."
I am not at all inclined to think this pageantry
wrong, for there must be marks of respect paid to
the head of every government, whether republic or
raonarchy; but seeing this astonishing wealth, one
cannot but wonder at the squabbles about poor-laws.
One raight ask the great, as was asked more than a
hundred years ago —
" How dare you let one worthy man be poor?"
But the English always smile at such remarks, and say
it is impossible. I am sorry for it — sorry that the
judicious use of money is pronounced irapossible, for it
raight easily be so used as to ensure employment to the
whole population. I have heard it argued, there always
must be great poverty where there is great wealth —
there was in Rome of old: and was Rome of old
a Christian land? Did the Roman mythology, like the
Christian revelation, command those " who are rich in
this world to be ready to give, and glad to distribute,"
and those who had much "to give plenteously?" I

AN AMERICAN LADY. 149
trow not. Rome, indeed! It must be a weak argu
ment that requires such a buttress; besides, the Caesars
did give the people bread and shows ; and some shows
are open to the poor here, but they may see them unfed.
Don't caU me caerulean. " A riddle," indeed is England ;
but in such disregard of God and man is the very re
verse of "a jest" or "a glory."
I need not describe to you the form of presentation
at court, as you will have learned it in full particulars
from Mrs.  , in fact she would not spare you a fold
in the queen's robe, nor a sparkle in her brilliants.
Sedan-chairs, which used to be so common, seem alto
gether disused. In the evening about nine we rode
along the principal streets to see the illuminations; they
are by no means general, confined indeed to the bouses
of the ministers, the principal club-houses and theatres,
some of the pubhc buUdings, and the queen's trades
men; usually a large or smaU star, or crown, or wreath,
or the initials V. R.; sometimes a hne of light runs
along, tipping with bright fire the whole balcony; these
illuminations are generally of gas, but some of coloured
lamps; the glare is intense; the club-houses are the
most resplendent; " Sublime their slarry fronts they rear."
The crowd, vehicular and pedestrian, was dense— we
could only get along at a walk, and that a slow one.
Our friend, Mr. Guy, would take a stroll to observe
the crowd — not that he considers the proper study
of mankind to be man or men — but he willed to

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go forth — lost his handkerchief, and had his corns
ground to agony; he was even told "he looked as if he
would have the cholera direct, and had better go
home to his mother." — Mr. Guy's indignant expostu
lation, "I calculate, stranger, if you were to New
Orleans," — was lost inthe crowd; and when he shouted
louder, a policeman bade him "sing under, and move
on;" he was then asked "if he thought himself small
beer or intermediate?" and "if he was inclined for a
flare-up, and would find his own gas?" After much
trouble he regained his apartraents, ireful and mal
content. Some men do not know how to get along
in a crowd; he should not wear such an unusual hat.
Mr. Guy complained much of his uncourteous treat-
raent, as he narrated it, and declared the English
hadn't tbe manners of bears — which is quite contrary
to the general opinion. Were his old schoolmaster,
Josiah Smart, here, he said "he might make the better
end of a fortune by teaching proper English — that
was a fact." I do not pretend to understand these
questions any more than the gentleman interrogated;
but I am told it is considered clever to propound
them — an indication that the querist is a genius of
a superior grade. The English are generaUy lively in
a crowd, and httle tolerant to foreigners. Mr. Guy
adduced another proof how Ul the Euglish spoke
English; he had an argument with Mr.  , a fashion
able coach-builder, something about a steam ship, and
offered to back his own opinion with a wager of 100

AN AMERICAN LADY. 151
dollars. Mr  asked him " if he was ready to post
the blunt?" Mr. Guy not liking to appear ignorant of
the meaning, said "he would prefer it sharp;" and
then it seems the conversation became entangled be
yond all unravelling. I wonder if there are glossaries
for the new phrases those people coin. Does it not
shew great ingenuity that they always keep clear of wit
OP sense?
On the Saturday before this drawing-room Mrs.
Mortimer and I accompanied Mr. and Mrs. Guy to
Greenwich. Greenwich lies in the other direction to
Richmond — Richmond being up the river, that is from
the sea, Greenwich down it. W^e embarked at Hunger
ford — the bridge makes no progress; it is said, "not
to go back is somewhat to advance," and the com
pletion of the bridge is perhaps expected on this prin
ciple. Waterloo Bridge is the first we pass through,
and beautiful it is — the summit is flat (not the case with
the other bridges), and though there are nine arches,
and of massy granite, the river is spanned as by a fairy
erection; the next bridge is Blackfriars, one of the
older stone bridges, and when through it there is a
noble view of St. Paul's to the left, rearing its lofty
head above all surrounding objects as if it sought to
rise above the contagion of the city. There is no doubt
that thousands of native Londoners of all classes have
hardly deigned a prolonged look at St. Paul's — there
stands with extended arms tbe statue of the Saint,
and how many who have hved within sound of the very

152 LETTERS FROM
bell of the clock, hardly know there are statues, or
where placed; the figure, the cathedral, and the written
word of the great Apostle of the GentUes, are alike
disregarded by countless crowds of " this highly-
favoured Metropolis."
The next bridge was Southwark, which is of cast-
iron, and spans the Thames in three grand arches.
Then comes the last and greatest, the new London
Bridge, of granite. All these bridges are worthy a
great city, and have been raised, not out of the national
means, but from the city's own revenues, or by the
joint-stock speculation of individuals — such is the
wealth of England ! If its direction were generous,
wise, and christian, what a country this would be!
Below bridge, as it is called, we passed the Custom
House, of disagreeable raemory; and the Tower, of
historical celebrity; and the Dock Warehouses, with
their accumulated merchandise. The river is crowded
with shipping, as well as the docks; enough one might
almost think for the commerce of half the globe; but
then numbers are laden with coal, from the northern
ports of Newcastle, Shields, Sunderland, etc., and
some have as cargoes, eels— live eels, frora the sluices
and dykes of Holland; and stone from Scotland or
Guernsey; and provisions from all parts; and choice
fruits from Spain, France, and the Levant; and the
richest wines,' and the strongest spirits; every thing, in
short, for this universal mart. " Notions of all kinds,"
Mr. Guy said, " raolasses and Dutch dolls included."

AN AMERICAN LADY. 153
The great city demands all kinds of food for its
ravening maw — "rich dainties for the rich.
Who give the refuse to the poor full piously
When that the dogs are sated."
"We pass over the Thames Tunnel; leave Deptford
with its Government offices to the right, and soon are
close alongside the hull of the Dreadnought, once a
hundred-gun ship, and now moored in the river and
fitted up as a hospital for seamen of all nations; the
expense defrayed by voluntary subscription — a noble
charity, and a fitting introduction to Greenwich
Hospital. Greenwich is a place for a country to be
proud of; a palace devoted to the old age of seamen,
who have earned the refuge amid fire, and groans, and
death. I was greatly interested, but did not testify it
as Dr. Samuel Johnson tells us (in rhyme though) that
he did — fancy him !
" Pleased with the spot that gave Eliza birth,
We kneel, and kiss the consecrated earth."
I once heard an Enghsh surgeon ask what Eliza— Eliza
who? The dress of the old pensioners is not so
removed from a naval uniform as to appear a badge
of charity; we did not see so many wooden legs as I
expected; but destructive naval engagements have been
rare of late. Long may it be before the old comple
ment of artificial limbs be again made up ! We paid
our fees, and saw through the Painted Hall. The
ceUings, and the sides of the farther end of the hall, are
H

154 LETTERS FROM
painted with bewildering allegories, by Sir James
Thornbill. "WiUiam and Mary seemed enthroned in
a Jupiter and Juno-like manner; along the sides of
the hall, which are un-allegorised, are hung paintings
of sea-fights and of naval commanders, presented by
George the Fourth, and others; few, it is said, are of
great merit. I heard an elderly gentleman, a stranger,
in the hall ungratefully express his belief that the king
would be glad to get rid of nurabers of them.
We then saw over the Chapel, paying again of course :
the interior is elegant; here the pensioners attend divine
worship; the man who shews it is the chapel-clerk, and
when a boy served on board Nelson's ship: the cost of
each portion of the chapel, as well as of the whole, is
carefully detailed; the altar-piece, by West (St. Paul's
escape from shipwreck) was worth 9000/. (I am almost
sure the man said 9000/. ; perhaps if estimated by that
favourite criterion here, what it would bring, a cipher
or two might be struck from the amount); and the
statues, by Bacon, cost so much; and the carved ceUing,
and the marble floors, and the mahogany doors, so
much. This is so very English; when an enormous
outlay is told of in this country, it appears as if
nothing more need be said — it cost so raany thousands !
— the force of eulogy can no further go. There are
between five and six thousand of these pensioners; but
if I remember the numbers rightly, three thousand
are out-pensioners, tbe others, I suppose, are in the
Hospital. The institution has revenues and estates of

AN AMERICAN LADY. 155
its own; among other estates, those of the Earl of
Derwentwater, who was one of the leaders of the
Jacobite insurrection of 1715: his lands and halls were
confiscated to Greenwich Hospital. The Governor is
generally some old and successful Admiral — Sir Robert
Stopford, of St. Jean d'Acre fame, being the present
one. There are some very old men among the inmates,
some who fought with Rodney in 1780, several of
Nelson's tars, and of St. Vincent's.
We walked in the Park which adjoins the Hospital —
on the summit of a small hiU is the Astronomical
Observatory. Some of the pensioners were in the Park,
with telescopes fixed so as to afford a view of St. Paul's
— we could just espy it with unglassed eyes; for
although the day was fine and cloudless, the metro
politan vapour was so thick as completely to veil
objects when only a few miles off. I have heard of
cities of fire; London is one of smoke.
On our return from the Park we somehow or other
missed Mr. Guy, but returned without him to the inn
where we had called before visiting the Hospital; and,
greatly daring, ordered dinner. Mr. Guy soon joined
us, odorous of tobacco, "ill-perfuming scent;" — he had
stopped he said to talk to a veteran, who had been
engaged in some sea fight in the American war, and the
old worthy smoked as they spoke together ! The most
noticeable dish at our dinner, was white-bait, a tiny fish
caught in the river, and fried in quantities together —
it is eaten with thin bread and butter and a little lemon-

156 LETTERS FROM
juice, and accounted a great dainty, numbers coming
to this place and to BlackwaU, on the other side of the
Thames, to eat it; perhaps its being rather costly is one
reason it is so highly praised; the white-bait tasted to
me like a delicate pancake; it is certainly very palatable.
I stoutly resisted returning by an omnibus, and
although it was rather a chilly evening, we re -em
barked in a steam-boat and landed at London Bridge,
where we engaged a hackney-coach. As my lodgings
were the most distant, I was alone when we reached
Piccadilly. I asked the coachman his fare; he said
three shillings and sixpence; his civility emboldened
me to observe, as I paid him, " But they tell me you
hackney - coachmen generally over-charge — how is
that?" " Vy, you sees as how, marm, the fare's werry
little to keep two 'osses and myself, and the coach and
^arness on; but I assures you, marra (and ve came a
little vays out o'the road) — /never overcharges a lady!"
I have not met such another instance of gallantry in
London. Ever, etc.

AN AMERICAN LADY. 157

LETTER XVII.
PHRENOLOGY  ANECDOTE — BRITISH MUSEUM  VASTNESS — ERUDI
TION OF SOME OF THE VISITORS  NATIONAL GALLERY  ROYAL
ACADEMY — THE EXHIBITION  PORTRAITS  ADVERTISEMENTS 
DULWICH — THE POLYTECHNIC EXHIBITION.

Dearest Julia, London,  1843.
I have received your letters, and again
rejoice to learn that all is well. Perhaps our next
greeting may not be through posts distantly, but
face to face. Is it not Tom Coffin, who declared he
never could see the use of land, unless to buUd and
re-fit as weU as to victual and water ships; and so I
cannot see the use, the great benefit of travelling and
absence, which many extol so highly, except in the
return — parting is not sweet, but bitter sorrow in my
eyes. Dr. C  , who seems to have a lurking belief
in phrenology, once told me that the mania for travel
ling was decidedly organic; some men could no more
help being wanderers than could Cain; they must
roam; he called this organ "locality," a name better
adapted I thought for a bump of a stay-at-home quality
— it is located at the corner of tbe eyebrows, the

158 LETTERS FROM
inner corner, and was so fully developed in Captain
Cook that it gave him a perennial frown. Dr. C 
told me moreover that he once had a servant with this
organ very large, a clever and active, but passionate
man, always longing for travel and novelty; always
anxious, in a double sense, for a change of place; this
man left tbe doctor's service, who heard nothing of
him for some time; at last he found that in a street-
squabble his former servant (who had been wandering
in Scotland in the interim), had by a sudden blow-
caused death to a drunken fellow, whose head struck
the pavement as he fell, his hat being off, and who
died shortly after; the homicide was tried, convicted
of manslaughter, and sentenced to seven years trans
portation; the convict heard his sentence with ill-
dissembled glee — a voyage and a long one — change of
scene — it seemed to matter little under what circum
stances. But how fallacious are huraan hopes! The
case was not an aggravated one, so the authorities sent
the poor fellow to the hulks, instead of a distant penal
colony; tbe confineraent was so irksome that the man
fretted, and fumed, and pined, untU he became so Ul
that he would have died had not his term of confine
ment expired when it did — "had not that expired,"
said Dr. C  " he would !" Whether aU this was to
be attributed to an elevation above the eyebrow, you,
lady fair, can judge as well as I.
" I cannot say how the truth may be,
I but tell the tale as 'twas told to me.''

AN AMEKICAN LADY.

159

Dr. C  also told me that he knew several persons
who used to pronounce phrenology siUy sooth, alter
their opinions considerably when told their heads pre
sented a fine development — excellent organs— both of
inteUect and feeling! A gentleman who had argued
closely against the truth of phrenology, treating the
subject skilfuUy as weU as scientifically, raight be rather
startled, if complimented in reply on the prominence of
the organ of "causality" (I beheve it is caUed), which
his forehead evinced, whUst of tbe possession of the
quality he had just given as prominent a proof.
And so the rumour that reached me is untrue, after
the manner of rumours, and Miss Julia — is still fancy-
free. But what a craving girl you are — is not this
a pretty passage in your letter? "Do tell me, there's
a kind creature, more about London, and send news
papers, and see all you can before you leave, to lay up
stores for long English talks in New York. Give up
your readings for your writings, for you've already read
so much, that you may give your library a respite —
you were always such a bold reader, too." Upon my
word! As I state my opinion freely of these people, I
suppose you'll tell me next I am a bold letter writer.
Well, I must abide it.
And of what shall this letter treat,
" Which way, Amanda, shall we bend our course?
The choice perplexes,"
but as you are indifferent on the subject I will write of
the first "lion" that comes into my head, whether I

160 LETTERS FROM
have seen it recently, or long ago — which shall it be —
the British Museum ? That will do. I have risited it a
few times. It fills a large mansion in Great Russell-
street, once the residence of the Dukes of Montagu,
but great additions have been built to it of late. As
to what it contains — it contains every thing. Charles
Sausse accompanied me on my first visit ; he is or was
studying ornithology, and was so full of his tales of his
" accipitres " and " passeres " that I was glad to fly
away from the birds. No fee is demanded as you
enter, and the Museum is open three days in the week
nearly tbe whole year. It is incumbent upon all per
sons to leave their parasols, umbrellas, or walking-sticks,
with a proper officer before they can gain admittance :
the English poke objects vrith them, and cannot, there
fore, where there is valuable property, be allowed the
uncontrolled manageraent of these dangerous weapons;
the gentlemen would strike the ancient statues to
see if they were marble or only composition: many
a man in these places seems to institute himself a com
mission of inquiry, and to think that the tombs, statuary,
basso-relievos, bronzes, animals, and all else, should be
subjected " to feeling as to sight."
The collection is vast; I think that is the proper
word. Ancient and modern times have yielded their
spoils to form it, so have barbarism and refinement —
the savages of the South Sea Islands, and the sculptors
of Ancient Greece. Really it is something to leave the
turmoil of London, and find yourself amid the relics of

AN AMERICAN LADY. 161
Ancient Egypt. I am told, and can readily believe,
that these places are principally attended by visitors to
the metropolis, with whom it is a sort of duty to see all
they can. W'hat cares the purse-proud Londoner for
the birds of Guiana, the animals of Southern Africa, or
the Elgin marbles? He finds himself nobody among
them ; there is nothing to soothe his seff-love, and much
to rebuke his ignorance, and so he feels dissatisfied,
and calls a study among the remains and productions
of other ages and other countries a waste of time.
Some expatiate on the cost of the objects : — 500/. for
this! 500/.! Ridiculous! Why five hundred people
might have dined together for it, and well! You say
I dwell much on this theme of selfishness; the fact is
forced upon one so continually, that it cannot but be
continually mentioned.
The ruined cities in Guatamala do not appear to
have any representatives in the British Museum, but
most other places have: mummies aud sphinxes are
plenty, and — but I might as weU copy the Synopsis
as attempt to tell you what I saw; indeed I could not,
for the coUection is —
" so various, that it seems to be
Not one, but all the world's epitome."
I have been amused with the remarks I have heard.
There are Roman characters appended to a bust,
M. AVRELIVS: it requires no great learning to see
it is Roman, and I find it is no less a person than
H 2

162 LETTERS FROM
Marcus Antoninus, before he was Emperor known as
Marcus Aurelius. "Ay," said a well-dressed gentle
man, putting his glass to his eye, and then removing
it, that he might see more clearly, " ay, very good,
very fine, there's Monsieur Aurelius." "And who was
Monsieur Aurelius?" asked a lady with him. "Why,
why  I don't exactly remember" (that is true at
any rate, thought I, and here came a short pause) ; " but
I beheve he was somebody" (true again, and another
pause); "somebody — somebody — in the French Revo
lution." Monsieur Aurelius! The zealots of the
French Revolution often adopted classical names; but
they were of republican, not imperial, Rome. I do not
believe that — "marble can
On some occasions feel as much as man;"
or assuredly a frown would have corrugated the Roman's
brow at the misnomer. Some bronze vessels from
Herculaneum, I saw closely observed; and then the
chief spokesman of the party mused, and said, "I
believe they are what people used to drink their tea
and coffee out of, in the old ignorant times, before they
made such fine work in china and delf." The old
and ignorant times ! 0, much-abused antiquity ! But
the fine work in China may be admitted. Then I once
heard an oracular-looking person sagely and truly say
of some lava from Vesuvius: "We have no quarries
of that sort in England." I was amused to see in
an old " Picture of London " I sometimes look into.

AN AMERICAN LADY.

163

that in the eighth room at the Museum, "the prin
cipal productions are very valuable, consisting of
minerals from Derbyshire, Siberia, and the South
Seas." So cool a classification— Derbyshire and the
South Seas!
The library and reading-room are not open to visitors;
but any lady or gentieman may become a reader
gratuitously, by obtaining a proper recommendation
to the authorities: the rooms are generally full of
readers; the shelves containing the books would, they
say, extend eight mUes in a direct line, and those of
the Bibhotheque du Roi at Paris, twenty miles. It is
incumbent upon the author or publisher of every book
in Great Britain, to present a copy to the Museum
library, as well as to other institutions. Some of the
English critics complain that the facility of coUating,
of reading, and of making extracts from the books and
manuscripts in this great pubhc library, tends to the
increase of book-making; people compile rather than
compose; write less out of the fulness of their minds
than that of these book-shelves. Mr. N., who occa
sionally reads here, told me, and I was glad to learn
the fact, which forms the exception to the rule, — glad of
it too for the honour oi polite letters, that the assistants
in the Museum reading-rooms were uniformly civil;
literature has softened and refined them. What is
impossible to learning? The English admit that you
very rarely find civility among the servants of public
bodies; why, they never clearly explain. I know this

164 LETTERS FROM
official incivility is very disagreeable to private bodies
— to simple individuals like myself for instance.
There are always persons in the Museum making
drawings or casts from the antiquities. Many of the
visitors look quite bewildered; if admiration be ex
pressed in gaping, tbeir admiration never flags.
Mercutio tells us how a soldier "swears a prayer or
two," and so these spectators may yawn a panegyric.
Provisions are not sold in the Museum, as they are in
the Tower, and other public places — a grievance upon
which, somewhat to my surprise, I have seen no letters
in the newspapers. The Museum can no more be
properly seen in a day than Rome was built in one.
The National Gallery is another of the places gra
tuitously open to the people every day in the week
except Friday and Saturday, when only students and
artists are admitted. The paintings are in separate
rooms, none of which seemed to me larger than a weU-
sized drawing-room with us. I like this sub-division
of paintings better than to view them all in a long,
long gallery. The ceremony of parasol and stick delivery
is gone through here as elsewhere. The collection does
not oppress you with its vastness; indeed, it is pro
nounced still in its infancy, and certainly is a very
thriving chUd. The paintings are chiefly of the Italian
schools— Sebastiano del Piombo, Leonardo da Vinci,
Raffaelle, Correggio, the Caracci, Titian, Claude, Guido,
as well as some of the Spanish, Flemish, and English
masters. There is a picture by 'Both,' and I heard a

AN AMERICAN LADY. 165
lady ask her esquire, "both who?" She appeared to
think it the work of both the artists between whose
paintings it was hung ! If ignorance be bliss, there is
great happiness in England.
In different rooms in the same building is annually
opened the Exhibition of tbe works of living artists —
called the Exhibition. If you pass from the National
Gallery into the Exhibition, the colours of the moderns
look so new and bright in comparison. The pictures
are very numerous and of all kinds : historical, imagi
native, architectural, and portraits — sculpture also, and
some medallions and models. The great majority are
portraits; and busts too in the sculpture room, although
there are several figures and models. A great many
paintings also are refused a place in the Exhibition. I
cannot understand' how ladies, be they ever so young
and fair, I raean unmarried ladies, can allow their
portraits to be in the Exhibition. I heard a gentleman
say before the portrait of Miss  " Humph — it's one
way of advertising;" this was rather a'coarse remark,
and perhaps the man was a cynic; but why, gentle
ladies, why subject yourselves to such a remark? Why
let it be even insinuated that —
" Ce vulgaire dessein vous pent monter en tete?" ¦
Portraits should be for family affection, for the domestic
gaze, and not the public eyeglass. Would you consent
to submit to the criticism of rude and unidead spec
tators? — Ladies should not give their countenances to
such a fashion. The case is different as regards the

166 LETTERS FROM
portraits of public characters, as they are in some
sort public property. I was surprised to see so few
paintings of ordinary life or of humour. A shilling
is the charge for admission, and the catalogue costs
another shiUing — a very necessary expense, as this is
not a national property. Perhaps of all I saw, 1 was
the most interested with Landseer's animals — one
expects his dogs to jump barking out of the frames.
There are, besides these, a great raany collections of
paintings in and about London. One, the Dulwich
Gallery, is a very interesting exhibition — rich in
MurUlos and Cuyps; it adjoins or forms part of an
hospital and college, founded by the liberality of
AUeyn, the player and contemporary of Shakspeare. I
do not offer to describe paintings to you, for it requires
an artist, and a clever artist, to describe them so as to
interest. I know nothing more disagreeable than the
jargon of hght and shade, breadth and tone, keeping
and chiaro oscuro, from unskilled pens.
Among a people who think so highly of themselves
as the English, be sure portrait-painting is in great
request, and at all costs, from a shilling to three or four
hundred guineas. In very many places a case of small
portraits is exhibited, with an announcement, " In this
style, five shillings." This is another example of the
elliptical mode of expression; it should be "In this
absence of style." I have been amused to observe how
alike all the portraits are, and by no means intended
for a family party; a moustachioed warrior with sword

AN AMERICAN LADY. 167
by his side, and a school-boy with satchel in his hand,
presenting the same unmeaning harmless look.
Then there are the Daguerreotype portraits, taken —
but you know the process — they do shew so wondrous
grim; these are taken principally at tbe Polytechnic
Exhibition, in Regent-street; a place full of models,
and engines, and wheels, and fountains, and galvanic
batteries, and whirrings, and buzzings, and headaches.
You may receive a shock from an electrical machine,
and be certain of several from the crowd; and you may
get into a diving bell and go down into a pool of real
water (I wonder they don't advertise it as rose-water,
it would be so attractive), that is, if you choose, and pay.
Then there is the magic-lantern improved — a series
of "dissolving views," one fading away into another
until you see the coming event cast its shadow before
the faint outline of its predecessor has disappeared.
In short, this institution is philosophy made easy; but
it is not so easy to be philosophical in such a crush as
I have experienced there : they probably call it a royal
road to science^so let them call it — but the only right
road to science, learning, or phUosophy, is a very
republican path.
I heard one youth say to his party, and one or two
of the ladies with him had been babbling of chemical
affinities most learnedly, "let's cut our sticks," and
they departed. Such a speech in some parts of America
might be considered an invitation to "whittle;" here it is
a phraseology the young gentleman adopted to intimate

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his desire for the exeunt of his party. Mr. N. told me
the wittier persons (!) in this country improved upon
the saying and talked of " shortening their switch,"
" making an incision, in their cane," or " amputating
their timber." Lord Brougham long ago declared that
"the schoolmaster was abroad" in England — in my
opinion he is lost. Apropos of a lord, and such a lord.
I will send you in the next parcel the very latest
"Peerage and Baronetage of Great Britain" (Burke's,
I believe), and in it your aristocracy-loving friend will
find all the information she wishes for. It is curious
to observe that in modern peerage books, though the
births of the fair daughters of their " Graces," and
their "Lordships" are carefully recorded, no dates are
given. What can be the meaning of so strange an
omission? Ever, etc.

AN AMERICAN LADY. 169

LETTER XVIII.

RAIN  ADVERTISEMENTS ON WHEELS  PUFFS AND SANDWICHES 
BOZ KEEPS HIMSELF VERY CLOSE — BOZ AN ANTAGONIST OF THE
PRETENDING  FAULTLESSNESS OF MONEY  OMNIBUSES  PRO
VISIONS FOR CHRISTMAS ENJOYMENT — BOXING-DAY  MAY -SPORTS
 STREETS AT NIGHT. '

Dearest Julia, London,  1843.
It rains — not a downright honest, windy,
noisy shower, but sly, persevering and little-seen, which
wets you far more thoroughly; just as a smooth, sedate,
"respectable" rogue is more dangerous than a free-,
spoken one : an European flatterer worse than an
American. I sometimes like a rainy day, that I may
stay within tp write to you, and feel I sacrifice nothing.
Are you not gratified that I appear to address you as a
dernier ressort! But then, if I prefer you to Saunders
and Otley's library, that is a compliment.
To gaze out of the window is a great resource in
many parts of London to ward off the attacks of the
fiend ennui, which oddly enough assails the wealthy
here more than the people of any other country, while
the language has no word to express it. The variety

170 letters FROM
in the form and shape of the private carriages struck my
eye when I first saw the streets; some of them were quite
new to me — one of the latest seems called after Lord
Brougham; — but look at those lumbering things, they
are advertisements, advertisements on wheels, cupola or
caravan shaped, drawn by one horse, and with announce
ments on the sides : some to inform the nobility, gentry,
and public in general, that there will be a volcanic erup
tion or an illumination of the Castle of St. Angelo, at the
Surrey Zoological Gardens — (the hackney-coachmen call
these places the 'Logical Gardens). One conveys a dis
interested piece of advice to "reform your tailors bills,"
by employing a particular tailor; another an equally
disinterested hint about furniture, if you marry. Then
another tailor has a revolving body on his carriage-
wheels, and dressed headless figures in it, as if it were
a parade of the victims of the guillotine. Then comes
one which vaunts the excellence (of all things) of some
wonderful man's wigs ! Don't you think the old poet
foresaw this? What else do these lines describe —
" And headless figures danced before their eyes.
While tardy flames and strange revealings roU'd
Right through men's fullest haunts."
In addition to vehicular puffs, are puffs stationary and
peripatetic — I must write learnedly you know, when I
write of national characteristics. The puffs stationary
or stationery, perhaps it may be spelt either way, are
delivered in the form of hand-bills in busy thorough
fares and at the corners of streets; the raen employed

AN AMERICAN LADY. 171
give a peculiar aud evidently long practised flourish or
jerk of the wrist, as they proffer the often -rejected
paper. Of course ladies always decline those offers if
any impudent fellow holds them forth — always in silence.
I never was offered one; but then I walk little in the
streets. I should not have known the nature of those
documents, had I not heard Mrs. Guy complain of the
annoyance — it seems Mr. Guy regularly accepts every
bill presented to him (I believe there is a double
meaning in my phraseology, derogatory to Mr.^Guy's
smartness — well, I did not mean it); but I was telling
you I heard Mrs. Guy complain that sometimes Walter,
for she calls hira Walter, and playfully (what pro
fanation!) Sir Walter, brought home so many recom
mendations of quack medicines, and cheap dining
rooms, and low-priced Chesterfields and Taglionis, that
it was shameful; as if Mr. Guy looked like a man who
would dine for seven pence half-penny, or seemed ill,
or as if he wanted a twenty-shilling great coat.
By the way, Mrs. Mortimer told me (entre nous) that
Mr. Guy had consulted Dr. R., her physician, to be
advised of any means of smoking tobacco, which he
beheved essential to his health, and not retaining the
unmistakeable odour on his garments. Dr. R. advised
him to smoke in a bath!
The puffs peripatetic are announcements printed in
large type and pasted on boards, soraetiraes carried on
men's shoulders, sometimes two of the boards are slung
on a peripatetic, one forming his waistcoat the other

172 LETTERS FROM
the back of his coat; this, Boz calls an animated sand
wich. I think Mr. Dickens must be fond of sandwiches,
for he calls the deck of a small steam-boat a warm
sandwich. We have heard that a twice-told tale is
tedious; but the impression produced depends not so
much (mind, this is not my own remark) on what is
said, as upon who says it. The other day I pointed
out one of those wheeling advertisements to Lady 
and said I thought such things strange. "0!" she
remarked, in a tone no underlinings or notes of admi
ration can do justice to, " they are from tbe City." So
I believe they are, " Down Easters," as Mr. Dickens's
friend from the brown forests of the Mississippi might
call them — things of Cockney raising.
If one raay judge (I ought to have raade this remark
before), and it is not an unfair criterion, of the predi
lections of the English by the biUs Mrs. Guy told me
her husband received, what do they indicate? That
the things most likely to experience a favourable recep
tion with the many, are quack-medicines, cheap dinners
when display is unnecessary, and low-priced coats,
called after nobleraen and opera-dancers, and made to
ape high-priced ones. Neither books, schools, nor
charities, are thus recommended, and why? Perhaps
any poor man, having the hardihood to tender a hill
requesting a mite from the crammed pockets of an
Englishman for any purpose altogether unselfish, would
run great risk of being caned.
There are some not very trifling peculiarities to be

AN AMERICAN LADY. 173
observed in our New York streets, of which I thought
Mr. Dickens would bave told; but he has not. " Boz
keeps himself very close," said a feUow traveUer in the
steam-boat from Sandusky to Buffalo; "which," says
Mr. Dickens "was true enough, for I was not very
well, and was lying down with a book;" and which I
think in another sense was true enough, for Boz
has certainly kept himself " very close" as regards any .
novel information about America.
I am so sorry Boz crossed the Atlantic, — how, I did
admire his works, and so indeed I do still. He is in
his own land the great antagonist of the pretending,
the false; if he chose to adopt the monarchical " we"
or "us," be might truly quote a couplet in one of
Scott's dramas, applying it to himself —
" For ah of the humbug, the bite and the buz,
Of the make-believe world, are still forfeit to us."
Why did he write at aU about America? The worst of
it is, it cannot be forgotten — it is idle to say, "let by
gones be by-gones," when they are in print. As
Kathleen, who has just left the room, might exclaim,
" Indeed, ma'am, and worse luck."
I cannot conceive how a man of Mr. Dickens's acute
ness could be led to think, as from the spirit rather
than the letter of his work one must conclude he does
think, that Mammon is as much a God in America as
in Britain. " The golden calf they worship at Boston,"
says he, "is a pigmy compared with the giant effigies
set up in other parts of that vast counting-house which

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lies beyond the Atlantic;" he might have added, and
less than a babe-pigmy compared with that before which
London bows the knee — bows the knee? It is far
more than that, it is a prostration of the entire man.
"Mammon " is the "Love" of the English, and to his
worship in this his capital, Campbell's lines may be
truly applied: " Here is the empire of his perfect bliss,
And HERE he is a God indeed divine.
The mere possession of unused and useless money
calls forth the adoration of the Englishman, I am
grieved to add, too often of the Englishwoman. Even
very young ladies will prefer a rich husband, be he fool
or braggart, to an amiable and intelligent one with
little more than a competency. How often have I heard
it said, " Miss  is a fortunate girl, she's going to
be married to Mr.  , and he's very rich, whUe her
fortune is a small one." "Yes, but is he not a
passionate, quarrelsome sot, and raore than twice her
age?" " All that may be, but then — thirty thousand
pounds." There is nothing more to be said. Thirty
thousand pounds! Mr. Buckingham gives an account
of marriages in America, which shews that even he is
not un-hoaxable — a silly practice of our people.
The omnibuses are continually passing along this
street; how they are all filled is amazing; but the very
clerks and warehousemen scorn to walk morning and
evening — they must ride to and from their snug country
boxes, as they call them. Nothing shews the riches of

AN AMERICAN LADY.

Loudon more than its suburbs in every direction, miles
of small neat houses, without shops or any appearance
of trade; these are tenanted by persons of small inde
pendent means, by the less wealthy tradesmen, and the
clerks and assistants in tbe public offices, tbe great
merchants' counting-houses, the wholesale warehouses,
etc. The most formidable-looking omnibuses, which
are seen in some of the streets, are those that convey
persons in custody to and from the police offices and
the prisons; they look like prison-carriages, the sides
built up; a policeman, gaoler-like, at the closed door;
the hght and ventilation can only be- admitted through
the roof, very imperfectly in all probability; but what
matters it ? These conveyances are for the poor
offenders — if a rich man be accused of any misdeed, he
can be accommodated with a hackney-coach and a
policeman in special attendance. Magistrates, as a
matter of course, express the sorrow they feel, the pain
that it causes them, to see so "respectable" a man
charged with any offence; " a person fiUing the station
in hfe of the accused " is, I believe, the formula which
prefaces the commiseration. Riches, we are told,
make unto themselves wings and flee away; here they
appear to make unto themselves shields as well, against
which the strong lance of justice and the light shaft of
ridicule are alike broken or blunted. Money is not
only virtue, but intellect and grace.
I am told people may live very cheaply in London,
but I do not find it to be the case. The supply of

176 LETTERS FROM
provisions of all kinds never fails. The markets where
the butchers have their shops and stalls are places to
which ladies cannot go, but there are occasional butchers'
shops in the best streets. There is seldom much dis
play in tbe provision warehouses (I mean in the win
dows), though some ofthe cheese and butter shops are
handsome. The fishmongers' places, with their cool
well-watered marble slabs, always look pleasing to the
eye, but they are inferior to those in New York. The
display of provisions at Christmas is wonderful; such
over-fed monstrosities of turkeys, geese, and chickens;
the poor birds are confined and fattened perforce for
the London market — "cramraed" is the technical word;
rabbits like little pigs, and pigs like Will Waddle, in
asmuch as they look like three rolled into one. The
houses of some of the poulterers and game-dealers are
literally fronted with fowls; tbe bright or dingy bricks
are covered with feathered creatures hung from roof to
basement — the windows excepted.
Then such exhibitions of prize meat ! here hangs
the ox that won the gold medal — here the sheep that
acquired the silver one — and here the joints of various
animals that gained prizes or praises they came so fat
upon the mart. Yes, there they hang, and the pursy
citizen {pursy in any sense you will) gazes, and still
turns to gaze upon them, and sighs thickly in anticipa
tion of bis smoking Christmas repast,
" And still with every sigh he stole
The fond enthusiast sent his soul."

AN AMERICAN LADY. 177
I told you before why eating was so popular — so
prolonged a pleasure in this country. The English
may pretend as they wUl, that they are not a selfish,
sensual people — at least that they are unconscious of
it; so M. Jourdain spoke prose all his life without
knowing it, but it is selfishness, and was prose not
withstanding. The observances of Christmas in London appear to
extend httle beyond dinner parties on Christmas-day.
In some parts of the North, sword dances and customs
peculiar to the season still linger. Yule-candles burn
on Christmas - eve by stanch Protestant hearths, while
the cheese is cut, being first duly crossed, and eaten
with the yule-cake and frumenty — something is left
of the habits of the past. In the metropolis, beyond
the dinnerings and parties I have mentioned, there is
hardly anything to indicate the season; to be sure the
day after Christmas-day is caUed boxing-day, that is,
people go round for their Christmas boxes (or gifts),
and housekeepers are in evil humour. The day is in
judiciously chosen, for the gentleman of the house may
be bilious from his yesterday's carouse; a state of body
or mind, or both, which the experience of one of the
British Essayists pronounces the most unamiable of all
the moods of man; but the men of police and scaven-
gery, parish clerks, bell-ringers, beadles, and all their
tribe are on the wing for Christmas-boxes; frequent
were the knocks at our hall-door, and not very brief
the coUoquies in the hall. I thought I could dis-

178 LETTERS FROM
tinguish the knockings and mutterings of the box-
people frora otber callers, that
"I knew
The voice ill-boding and the solemn sound."
I fancy their clairas were not too generously aUowed.
Of all these parties only they of constabular authority
requested a doupeur from the lady on the first-floor, as
soon as they ascertained there was a lady; when Kathleen
gave my half-crown to the officer who acted as treasurer
and who had the somewhat professional badge of a
blackened eye, she told him it did not appear by any
means the first Christmas box which had been dealt to
him. Pity the old Christmas observances have been so
abrogated, they were enjoyed alike by young and old,
rich and poor, and savoured of a kindly Christian spirit;
age forgot its cough, and poverty its privations; these
customs caused a neighbourly feeling throughout the
land, and therefore is it, I suppose, that they have been
discontinued. I do believe that not a single Bracebridge
Hall, with its true old Christmas wassail, can now be
found in England.
The Whitsun gambols also seem unknown, and the
May-pole sports are completely defunct. The Queen
of the Slay exists no longer, except in poetry, ballads,
or ballets ; a few bare May-poles still remain, as if to
mourn tbeir unbonoured, ungarlanded condition, for
they may be regarded as monuments of dead enjoyments.
I must now cease writing, to go forth and execute

AN AMERICAN LADY. 179
some of your commissions. I would walk in the streets
much more frequently, for I delight to observe their
ever-varying scenes, but one really cannot go any dis
tance alone ; I at least cannot, for I am American
enough to consider the stares of strangers disagreeable
(your compliment notwithstanding; you can flatter,
Julia, when you please) — indeed unbearable — so that
greatly as I may be interested in the busy haunts of
London, I do not care to snatch such a fearful joy.
The other night, or rather morning, for it was past
one o'clock, as I returned from a party, I told the man
to drive through some httle-frequented streets. It was
most impressive; the close gas-lights made it more so,
because they shewed the solitude distinctly. All was
very stUl, and yet, though all seemed at rest, how
many might those houses contain that could, know no
repose, or but the repose that more embitters awaken
ing ; a mother's wearied eyes raight be surprised by
^ slumber as she watched by ber dying daughter's bed,
and she might dream that her child, in health and
beauty unimpaired, was the pride of a brilliant assem
bly ; the man of desperate fortunes might be the lord
of risionary thousands ; or the widow happy with him,
lost to her for ever. Adieu, etc.

180 LETTERS FROM

LETTER XIX.
LONDON SIGHTS  THE COLOSSEUM  PANORAMA OF LONDON  NEW
SQUARES AND STREETS  A CITY OF OPULENCE  "DISTANCE
LENDS ENCHANTMENT TO THE VIEW "  ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS — ¦
RAISING OF A WATER-RAT  PUBLIC GARDENS.

Dearest Julia, London,  1843.
I suppose no city in the world, not even in
proportion to its population, can boast so raany " sights,"
or " exhibitions," or pubhc haunts generally, as Lon
don, and of every description. The lively have their
theatres, the studious their libraries, the scientiflc their
lectures, the serious their missionary museums, the ^
morose their hospitals, prisons, police-offices, and criminal
courts, the idlers tbeir trifles. These varied exhibitions
do not appear " to palliate dulness," for the English,
unless in crowds, are dull — but they certainly "give
time a shove." Many places where business is carried
on, and which are strictly private property, rank de
servedly high as " sights." The Times newspaper esta
blishment, for instance; Barclay and Perkins's brewery,
the site of the Globe theatre (Shakspeare's) being
within their premises, to say nothing of the brewery

AN AMERICAN LADY. 181
having been Thrale's inthe Boswellian days; aud some
of the jeweUery and drapery stores.
One of the most* un-disappointing exhibitions is the
Colosseum iu the Regent's Park. I mean the part
which contains the Panorama of London, although I
think many of tbe visitors prefer some miniature Swiss
scenery which is shewn there, and a Swiss cottage; but
then it looks foreign, and the other is only London, and
London about twenty years ago.
The Panorama is viewed from a series of galleries in
the upper part of the buUding called the Colosseum; it
occupies the whole of a large dome. You look through
openings, and glasses are affixed to each, through
which you can look at any object, and it is magnified,
as it would be from the gallery round the cupola of St.
Paul's, whence the view was taken. You walk round,
and before you lies wide-extended London ; the world's
greatest city is immediately within your ken, with its
thousands of spires and halls, its crowded river, and
mighty maze of streets. The distance seemed to me
admirably given ; you can read the signs in the streets
close to the Cathedral, and can only dimly descry the
public buildings a few miles off. The artist was many
years employed on his great work, and were I an Eng-
hshwoman I should wish it to be preserved in its
present state; it would be so interesting a hundred
years hence. It already shews decay; there are chinks
and crevices (it sounds oddly) in the sky, and on one
of my visits I saw a large broom protruded to sweep

182 LETTERS FROM
the heavens; no arm or hand was visible, and this
dusting of the o'er-hanging firmament had a startling
effect. The other galleries present you London as
viewed from the higher parts of the Cathedral ; in the
highest of them all I felt quite giddy. I knew that it
was merely painted canvass before me ; I knew that I
was in a show-place in the Regent's-park, admission
one shilling each; but still the illusion of height was
so complete that I was giddy, and had to sit down.
From the topmost gallery you ascend to the roof —
I mean the veritable roof of the Colosseum^ — and look
upon the real prospect around; it is quite bewildering.
You have been so occupied in gazing ou the streets
and parks inside that you at first feel as if the
Panorama were continued, and this was another of the
phases. The fresh air coming gratefully under your
bonnet undeceives you speedily, whilst you perceive
that the carriages and people in the park and the
adjacent streets move. I think it is an error in judg
ment to have introduced so many vehicles aud pedes
trians in the Panorama, for they must be necessarily
motionless; the same with the boats and barges on the
river. Why not have still Lopdon, sleeping London,
as it is beheld in earliest mormng from St. Paul's?
All the reality of the picture would thus be retained,
and this incongruity got rid of; the city then has no
appearance of busy life, nor can the artist give it a
noon-day aspect by filling the scene with figures as
unmoving as if they were in the petrified city of the
.Irabian Tales.

AN AMERICAN LADY. 183
Even in twenty years what a change ! Not a single
omnibus or cabriolet is visible, but some four-horse
stage-coaches, which the railways have now rendered
rare. ilr. Dickens describes the coachman from
Potomac Creek as a negro, very black indeed, dressed
so as to faintly shadow forth an insane imitation of an
English coachman! JMr. Dickens's fondness for such
characters should have led him to rejoice that any
imitation was offered of a being, for which the next age
in England may ask in vain, whUst our negro Jehus,
progressing from insane to rational and perfect imita
tion, may afford to posterity a tolerable specimen of the
nineteenth century coachman of Great Britain. Wash
ington Irring's sketch of one I heard the Rev. Dr. 
(no mean authority) pronounce perfection.
Wlien in the Colosseum, I heard several ask "but
where 's St. Paul's ?" An odd inquiry, I thought, for
the view could be taken from no place but St. Paul's,
and a part of the outworks of the Cathedral is under
the very eyes of the spectator; the question itself
shewed that the askers were not complete strangers to
London. London has increased very much since the
era of tbe Panorama. Old London Bridge is on the
canvas, but not a vestige of it now remains; then there
is a city of new squares and streets westward — Belgrave,
Eaton, and others — all full of mansions that can only be
inhabited by the very rich for to pay the rent is to
possess a fortune. I think the space occupied by the
mansions of the rich and the very rich alone, in and

184 LETTERS FROM
about London, must be greater than that of the greatest
of our cities. The English sometimes say, "0, but
these houses are often occupied by mere visitors to
London, by people who wish to cut a dash for a time;
they change tbeir tenants continuaUy." It maybe so;
but there are the houses, the furniture, the equipages,
and these things by themselves are riches, valuable
property. There cannot be much health in the prosperity of
London, or rather of England, or there would not be
such incessant squabbling about education and poor-
laws. Existed the disposition to amend or relieve the
poor — did "I will" wait upon "I can," any thing is
possible to such ampleness of raeans. If unoffending
hundreds are pining for bare subsistence — for bread,
literal bread, how is to be justified that the classes
possessed of such damraed-up wealth do not cause it to
flow wisely and freely over tbe land? If the aristocracy
used their raoney as well in aiding as they use their
tongues unprofitably in talking about the poor, in or
out of parliament, what a happy nation would England
be! As it is, look into its hospitals, its prisons, its
workhouses, into its suffocating courts and alleys,
where in every room a family struggles to breathe; read
official reports of its squalid manufacturers, its palhd
children working hard task-work in factories when they
should be in the school or the play-ground, and then
talk of its happiness. I know no right a rich man has
to complain of the poverty around him, unless he has

AN AMERICAN LADY. 185
personally laboured to diminish the. sum; if he have
not, "the poor cat i' the adage," (whatever it be) is
not a more pitiable animal. That few do so endeavour
the prevalent poverty sufficiently proves.
I cannot account for this supineness, unless by sup
posing an opulent Englishman would rather see his
brethren want than sacrifice any of his selfish and
senseless pride in his unused wealth, or abate a single
luxury if he do use it; there are exceptions no doubt,
and the proverb teUs us the strength of exceptions.
That "property has its duties as well as its rights" is
what the English are fond of saying, while they act a
negative. A quibbler might assert that when the
taxes upon incomes, wines, servants, and carriages are
duly paid, aU is accomplished; these being the duties
to which it is admitted property is subject ! You say
I dwell much upon this; it is so glaring that I cannot
but write of the monstrous anomaly.
The liberals here form a party. "Liberal" is a party
gathering word; they are the whigs of old, more liberal
than the tories, it is contended, in granting popular
rights, but nearly tbe whole aristocracy, it appears to
me, "to party give up what was meant for mankind;"
they hoard their thousands among themselves, or
squander them in their own personal pleasures, and
care less for the labouring poor of England, than for
the lazy poor of the Western or Eastern Indies; it is,
indeed, distance that lends enchantment to their views-
of charity or munificence.
i2

186 LETTERS FROM
Well, from the Colosseum to the Indies is a wide
digression; let me return. You can ascend to the gal
leries of the Panorama, if you prefer it and pay for it,
in an ascending room, where you sit snugly, and are
drawn up quietly by machinery; you are duly informed
that you are thus saved the fatigue of so many stairs —
to those who are neither lame nor weary, this must be
very gratifying! I always found foreigners at the
Colosseum, French or Gerraans generally, when I have
visited it; indeed, in most of the public exhibitions,
but they seldom seem at home in England.
From the Colosseum we proceeded to the Zoological
Gardens, which occupy a corner of the same Regent's
Park. Our shUlings paid, we find ourselves iu a
large flower-garden, amidst birds, beasts, and reptiles
from all parts of the world. Here you stroll around at
your pleasure, and observe tbe bears climb up poles for
bread from the visitors, or mark tbe restless pacings of
the panthers, or the cumbrous movements of the
elephants, or the unusual gait of the giraffes. Tbey
say ladies are generally fond of watching the gamboling
ofthe apes; there is something disgusting in it to me, it
looks so like a caricature upon humanity. The animals
are kept in separate cells, cages, ponds, or stables, with
smaU inclosures adjoining them, just as suits tbeir habits.
I am always sorry for the birds of prey I see confined,
they look so moped: what enjoyment of his existence
can an American eagle have in such scant space?
Not always, it is evident, does "the prisoned eagle die

AN AMERICAN LADY. 187
for rage," for here they are in tolerable feather, but
looking dull and dismal; if they glance upward at the
sun, it is despondingly: the vultures, which look like
the scavengers they are, appear to brook confinement
as badly.
The animals are numerous, and must be better here
as regards health than in the close caravans of travelling
menageries, or as the English express it, "tbey must
be so much more comfortable." Lions, hyenas, and
wolves comfortable ! Well, be it so. The giraffes inte
rested me most of all, such original looking creatures
with their spotted bodies and long necks, towering so
above you, that a feehng of Uttleness might come over
Freeman the Giant. I was told a giraffe cropped the-
flowers out of a ladyes bonnet on one occasion, 3lid
ladies have since been counselled to admire at respectful
distance; these animals walk out when they please in a
piece of ground inclosed by lofty palings; they look
very tame and quiet, and do not seem to pine for their
African homes. A remarkably fine rhinoceros stands in
a stall alongside a huge elephant, who occasionally bas
the luxury of a bath in the ground attached to his
abode. And there are wild boars, and wild asses, and
squirrels, and dogs, and foxes, and racoons (how I
thought of Colonel Crockett!); and ichneumons, and
kangaroos, and antelopes, a gazelle also, (which when
the more sentimental cockneys see, they quote Moore's
lines), and an elk, and many fine lively deer.
The noise or chatter in the room where the parrots.

188 LETTERS FROM
macaws, and cockatoos are, is sometimes deafening.
Nature has reversed the characteristics which those
scandalizing creatures, men, say prevail in humanity,
for among birds, whether of song, seream, or mimicry,
the males are raost proficient in noise. The colours of
many of the parroquets, toucans, etc. were most brightly
vivid. There is in a box a boa-constrictor swathed in
flannels; one morning be was found to have broken
his fast upon another and a smaller boa — to have con
sumed his fellow — a rare occurrence, I hope, among
brutes, or even serpents, — as to men, they — but we wiU
not enter upon that question now. The gardens boast
no crocodiles, the ugliest, the raost hideous of created
things; the Mississippi settlers would be very glad if
the English Zoologists would import a few free trade
cargoes of them from the shores of the river.
These grounds occupy a considerable space; and an
archway is formed under the carriage-road of the park,
through which you pass to their northern extremity,
skirted by a muddy-looking canal, called the Regent's.
A little way on the otber side of this canal is a round
squab hillock, called Primrose Hill, which some have
ill-naturedly styled the Cockney Parnassus. Three or
four adventurous persons were at the top, indulging
their organ of locality, I suppose.
On Sundays, these grounds are only open to sub
scribers, or their orders, I believe it is; at any rate, to
some privileged class; and, as there is privUege and
exclusiveness, the Zoological Gardens then form a

AN AMERICAN LADY. 189
fashionable promenade, just as if the poor prisoners,
like the better sort of poor people at large, shewed best
on Sundays! I heartily wished, as we came away,
we had gardens like these in New York. Patience —
patience, "le bon temps viendra."
Mr. Guy (who was not of our party) the other day
puzzled, and in reaction was puzzled by, one of the
attendants in the Zoological gardens; these attendants
do not shew the animals, but walk about to tend them,
and to see that no mischiefs are perpetrated, and that
all is orderly and secure. It seems there is an animal
like a very large water-rat in the collection, which I do
not remember to have noticed, perhaps it was diving
at the time. Mr. Guy was interested by this amphi
bious creature. "Where was the animal raised?" he
asked the man. "He's never raised at all, sir," was
the answer; "we always keep him down there in tbe
water, or in his cave." "Do you mean to say he was
raised in this country then?" But here, Mrs. Guy
came to the rescue, and explained that her husband
wished to know where was the native land, or rather
water of tbe animal, and he was informed accordingly.
The names and addresses of the birds and beasts are
painted on small boards, hung by each den or place of
confinement. I suppose one may call the mention of
"China," "New HoUand," " Southern Africa," "North
America," etc. etc., their addresses. I heard a most
lovely little girl, whom her parents called by the rather
unusual name of Bunny, term them so. An address is

190 LETTERS FROM
a place where the party is, or should be, at home; and
in this sense, the names and addresses of the involun
tary sojourners in the Gardens of Zoology, may be said
to be presented to the visitors.
There are also the Surrey Zoological Gardens where,
I am told, for I have not visited them, are a good many
animals, and nocturnal concerts, and spectacles to boot.
The Vauxhall Gardens, something like Niblo's, so well-
known to all readers of sixty-year old novels, seem now
no more, or shewing but a suspended animation.
Then there are a great many places called Tea Gar
dens, where, Mr. Griffiths says, tea is never thought
about, but people go thither on hot Sundays to smoke
and drink beer. I notice, however, that he is often
severe on the recreations of the poor; to drink beer
in a garden raust be as harmless as to sip maraschino
or quaff champagne in a club-house; that is, in my
estimation — the Enghsh think otherwise.
At Kew are pleasure-grounds and a Botanical garden,
open at certain hours and seasons; and you see a taU
pagoda, and a place tbey call the Temple of Victory,
and a ruined archway — a made ruin, — but man cannot
work against time; it is a patchwork place, and I was
told was a favourite promenade of George III. And
there are Botanical gardens also at Chelsea, for the use
of medical students; and very delightful gardens at
Chiswick, where the Horticultural Society are lords and
masters, whUe at tbeir summer exhibitions you see the
most beautiful flowers, and experience the most ardent

AN AMERICAN LADY. 191
crushes. Loddidge's nursery gardens at Hackney are
very interesting: so many tropical productions blooming
in Northern Europe; the palm trees are very lofty,
eighty feet, we were told, but tbe greenhouses are con
structed so as to contain thera. This is private pro
perty. I think we were told the pipes, used to warm
the greenhouses, would extend three miles at least, if
placed in a dhect hne. A breath of cool air when we
emerged from the world of glass was very grateful —
and so wiU a rest be to my flngers now. Ever, etc.

192 LETTERS FROM

LETTER XX.

ME. W. C.  OYSTERS AND WICKEDNESS  PUBLIC STATUES  THERE S
HONOUR FOR YOU !  SOOT USURPING THE DIVINITY THAT SHOULD
HEDGE A KING  THE MONUMENT  MODERN EASTCHEAP — GOLD
SMITH'S HALL  POST OFFICE  PENNY-POSTAGE BOON — LION-
HUNTING.

My DEAREST Julia, London,  1843.
I am delighted to find (curiosity in spite of
your grave animadversions is, I contend, sometimes its
own reward); delighted to have ascertained beyond
doubt, that Mr. W. C. is an Englishman, born in
Lincolnshire, — and proud of being an Englishman.
WhUst in this, his native country, he allows himself to
be regarded as the Rev. W. C; he has not the "Rev."
on his card — but that's bis modesty! Reverend! It
is something new; but he has precedent, all-powerful
precedent, for this addition to his baptismal and spon-
sorial appellations; the Rev. W. C! a novel distinction;
" An ' if his name be George, let's caE liim Peter,
For new-made honour doth forget men's names."
I once heard the Dean of  say that any thing,
ancient or modern, natural or impossible, might be
illustrated or mottoed by quotations from Shakspeare;

AN AMERICAN LADY. 193
a further evidence in proof that William Shakspeare
possessed the greatest genius God ever gave to man.
Never was such a digression as from Mr. C. to
Shakspeare. America has the unhappiness to be the
country of Mr. C.'s adoption, as it is that of many
Englishmen, who could well be spared. Cooper has
shewn that if the Enghsh complain, as they do, that
then" rogues run off to America, the Americans may
much more reasonably complain that their rogues come
from England. Of course you will understand that
I do not mean to attribute any moral or immoral cul-
pabUity to the Rev. W. C. [reverend! save the mark!
for I must draw a mark underneath it); the Rev.
W. C. is only disagreeable, not disreputable. I have
again had the misfortune to meet him in society, and
he entertained Dr. C. with a detail, a circumstantial
detail of his recent illness, which he attributed to his
disgust at witnessing the wickedness of London, and to
having eaten too many dozen oysters! Sam Weller
traced a connexion between oysters and poverty. I
have heard of some profane person recommending
rum and true religion; but of illness resulting from
excessive oysters on virtuous disgust, I have not heard
before. Dr. C. is very quiet mannered, and in pro
portion to his patience was the prolixity of the narrator
— not a symptom, I was afterwards told, was spared
the learned physician —
" He thought he must have died, he was so bad —
His peevish hearer almost wish'd he had."

194 LETTERS FROM
When you hear of so many dozen oysters, remember
that the English oysters are small, in accordance with
the seas of the island. A well-grown American oyster
would frighten a Cockney.
I am always glad when I can obtain Mr. Wilderton
for a cicerone, with either Mrs. Wilderton, his married
daughter, Mrs. Mortimer, or his only unmarried
daughter, Emma. Mr. Wilderton is so quaint an
humourist; but to walk he likes passing little, often
pleading incipient gout to justify both to himself and
his family the use of his carriage, if only for a few
streets — his is that charm which is ever a charm, age
or infirmity notwithstanding; I mean perfect good
nature. His family resemble him; and he always
judges so kindly, so leniently. "Ah! well," the old
gentleman will say, " we must not judge too harshly,
poor John — had we been so situated we might have
fallen lower." How poor is the pride of phUosophy
after this.
I love to walk abroad with Mr. W., for he often asks
such odd questions of the passers-by, to use an English
phrase " he draws them out :" if we happen to be in
one of the squares containing a statue, " whose statue
is that?" is tbe constant query, and very rarely indeed
can we learn. One morning as we loitered in Hanover-
square, he inquired of several " who that great creature
was?" This is a rather colossal statue of William Pitt;
and he, Mr. W., made the dirty crossing from the
corner of the square a plea for not going nearer to

AN AMERICAN LADY. 195
peruse the inscription — he could not be informed;
livery-servants, postmen, policemen, and street-sweepers
were asked in vain. One postman he recognised as
the functionary who performed the double knock at his
own door, and he stopped the limping official to tell
him that his servant, by mistake, gave him a shilling
short at Christmas, and he now begged to rectify the
omission— and then he proffered the inquiry; the post
man was perfect in ignorance — he knew nothing, public
or private, of the statue.
" WeU, but if you should have a posthumous letter
for him, you would then learn his name?"
"Letter, sir! what, him, su-?" (but seeing Mr. Wil
derton look grave), "yes, sir, certainly, sir, in that
case — I  "
And, hke Shylock, he would stay no further ques
tion. Then came by a very spruce person.
"We are sure to learn now," said Mr. Wilderton;
"behold the man who takes me by the nose when tbe
gout takes me by the knuckle," — his barber.
" Statue-r, sir ? Bless me, yes, sir, statue-r ? Well,
it's either Pitt or Fox — Fox or Pitt, one or other, sir,
you rrmy depend; good morning, sir," and away went
the man, sharp in razors if not in statues. And yet
this statue was erected in honour of a powerful minister,
and the persons we questioned must see it daily. 0,
rare old Sir John, though thy valour was discretion's
seff, full bravely didst thou moralise ! "What is honour ?
A word." An empty name, in sooth; but here it
seemed hardly that.

196 LETTERS FROM
Mr. Wilderton says he never could learn more of the
figure in Leicester-square than that it was one of the
Georges; and of the one in Golden-square (Ralph
Nickleby lived near), he could never learn anything;
but was once told by a lamp-lighter " it was perticcler
like a master-sweep, what lived near, and what had
feathered his nest — unkiraraon!" One circumstance
may be pleaded in excuse for this ignorance; the elder
among those statues look so black and grim, that they
may pass for anybody. Kings should not be repre
sented as such dirty characters to a monarchical people.
The king, in Hamlet — a murderer and a villain — de
clares that "a divinity does hedge a king;" in the regal
statues here, the hedge is not divinity — but, soot; soot,
the offspring of smoke, encases the statuary monarchies
of England.
Mr. WUderton once had to call at some bank in
Lombard-street in the city, and Emma and I accom
panied him. After putting us down in Lombard-
street he ordered his coachman to drive about whilst
we walked, and we walked to " The Monument." It
was built, I need hardly tell you, to commemorate tbe
restoration of London after the great fire of 1666;
there is a Latin inscription at the base of the noble
column. Mr. Wilderton ventured to ask one or two of
the passers to have the goodness to translate it for him
(he took high honours at Oxford), but they looked so
very glum he was obliged to desist. ITiey read Latin,
indeed — he raust mean to insult them ! I am told
that part of the inscription, which attributed the great

AN AMERICAN LADY. 197
fire to incendiary Papists, has been erased; very pro
bably the Corporation persons never beard of Pope or
his couplet, which was keen enough to have induced
them to remove it long ago —
" Where London's column pointing to the skies.
Like a tall bully, lifts the head and — lies,"
This is stUl caUed " Tbe Monument," and until the
last few years was the only one in London, W^e did
not ascend it ; the toil would be extreme, Mr. WUder
ton felt sure, and it would all end in smoke. The
gallery near the top of the Monument, to which the
sixpenny spectators ascend, is now caged in, to prevent
young women in this Christian and highly-civilised
country flinging themselves over the railings. Even in
their suicides these people have a selfish wish for dis
tinction more than the French — at any rate as much ;
but unobtrusive suicides are frightfully frequent.
We then walked into Eastcbeap. Let no Shaks-
perian lover visit it now, if he do not wish a change to
come o'er the spirit of his dream; tbe spot now more
particularly pointed out in Eastcbeap is a public-house
where there was foul murder done a while back. Gold
smith and Washington Irving, as well as the mighty
master, have made Eastcbeap familiar to us, but not
this Eastcbeap. If I remember aright, it pleased the
two moderns to forget that the old Boar's Head, as
well as all the region round about, was burnt in that
calamitous fire in 1666, and their genius makes us
forget it. We did see the site, and had only to ask for
it twice ! Mr. Wilderton first asked a venerable-looking

198 LETTERS FROM
gentleman we saw get out of his carriage at what I
suppose was his place of business, if he could point out
to us the site of the famous Boar's Head; the gentle
man did not know, and asked if it was an old inn?
" Oh," said Mr. WUderton, " I mean where Sir John
Falstaff took his ease."
"0 really, humph! I beg your pardon, but the sign
of the Sir John Falstaff is — " I forget where he said:
more bliss, if Gray be correct. We next asked a man
who was painting a door there, and luckily he knew.
We then re-entered the carriage, and caUed upon a
city acquaintance of Mr. WUderton, who was to shew
us Goldsmiths' HaU; this is a magnificent haU, situate
in a confined place behind the General Post-Office. It
is the property of one of the Trade Companies of
London, and I believe the richest; it raight be tbe
residence (in a better situation) of any dignitary in
the world, and his dignity would not be outraged. We
were shewn a large room with portraits of William tbe
Fourth and the present Queen Dowager, where the
company's dinners were eaten — the most important
business they appear to transact. We were told the
cost of carpets and furniture in other rooms— their
beauty was not raentioned, only their price; that in
cludes, as I said before, all otber exceUence. What
eloquence can be so panegyrical as, "It cost five hun
dred pounds?" Tasteful people! Of course you will
not agree with what Mynheer  said of the Enghsh,
" Dey am ridch in every ding bud dasde, and dasdeful
mosd in deir dinners." — This frora a Dutchman !

AN AMERICAN LADY. 199
There are a great many of those halls in the city
belonging to different companies — Fishmongers,
Drapers, Salters, Ironmongers, Stationers, etc. etc.:
I could never clearly understand the purpose of these
companies. They admit persons to their freedom and
their livery, whatever that may mean, but their chief
vocation seems to dine.
From Goldsmiths' Hall we passed through the
General Post-Office. It was close upon the hour when
the boxes are closed, and a further postage must be
paid; numbers were jostling each other, to get their
letters posted in time. I saw two boys who bore
between them a large bag filled with evening news
papers, ffing it just as the clock began to strike into
the recess where papers are received; somehow the bag
became untied, and the papers rolled in unadmired
disorder upon the ground. The two boy bag-bearers,
without a word spoken or a gesture of defiance, began
to fight, and hard honest blows they dealt each other,
untU the Post-Office people separated thera. They
then gathered up the papers, handed them to the proper
officer, and departed in apparent amity. From their
business-like way of proceeding, this was evidently the
mode the young gentlemen adopted to rectify any
mishap, or adjust any httle difference of sentiment.
The penny-postage is undoubtedly a great boon,
liberally and handsomely accorded, to the people of
the three Queendoms ; it is the redeeming measure of
the age. Oh! why should an aristocracy, with such
possessions and such power, let this be almost a solitary

200 LETTERS FROM
raeasure of disinterestedness — why only, instead of mer
thus ? I fancy we in America might learn something
frora the management of the London Post-Office.
Heigho ! I shall soon have finished teUing you of
London's sights, not that a tithe of them has been
described; but really if you carry it too far, sight-seeing,
lion-hunting, becomes the most wearisome of all pur
suits. Let what you view be never so interesting,
crowd too many sights into too little time, and you
will be greatly fatigued, and not delighted at all-
confounded only. " The sweetest honey
Is loathsome in its own deliciousness,
And in the taste confounds the appetite."
Pleasure soon becomes more wearisome than business,
if you extravagantly follow it; — it is quite unlike learn
ing, one may not say " drink deep or taste not." Many
poets shew this, and as I ara in rather a quoting vein,
not a very unusual occurrence perhaps, I will cite
chronologically, Shakspeare, then Pope, now Cowper —
" Business is labour, and man's weakness such.
Pleasure is labour too, and tires as much ;
The very sense of it foregoes its use.
By repetition pall'd :"
and to conclude with an anonyraous American poet —
" Pleasure too much pursued is aye unblest,
The pleasure's sickness when it sighs for rest."
and so do I — for my head and my fingers ache alike.
Ever, etc.

AN AMERICAN LADY, 201

LETTER XXI,

PALACES  TWICKENHAM  POPES GROTTO  AMONG THINGS THAT
WERE  STRAWBERRY-HILL  HAMPTON-COURT PALACE — CARTOONS
AND PAINTINGS  CARDINAL WOLSEY  MR. CHARLES KEAN 
MONMOUTH-STREET — FOREIGNERS  UNRAZORED  COWPER 
BAZAARS  MUCH-OFFENDING CINCINNATI  THE ENGLISH "IM
POSSIBLE."

My DEAREST Julia, London,  1843.
" Man," says Dr. Paley, in his strong way —
which written now might be called coarse — " Man is a
bundle of habits;" and so I suppose is woman, for I
have so habituated myself to describing to you a round
of sight-seeing that I must even carry you a little
further on. You know I like to see the streets, and
when I find myself under exemplary guidance — when
I am satisfied no harm or insult can possibly befal me
— I am courageous enough to venture where ladies
seldom venture. Indeed, it is rather fashionable to
affect ignorance of all places in London, not considered
within the varying and ill-defined fence of fashion.
Russell and Bloomsbury Squares, two of the largest in
London — and occupied chiefly by judges, lawyers, and

ri02 LETTERS FROM
professional gentlemen — are considered a proper butt
for the satire of those who dwell nearer the parks —
not the Regent's Park though, for that is not of the
fashion, fashionable. The Parks of London, the lungs
of the metropolis, are so well known from various
works, that I need not particularly describe them to
you, though perhaps I may some day. I cannot follow
the example of the methodical Captain Jabez R 
who, in a letter to his sister at Albany, describing an
excursion he made frora London to Hampton Court
Palace, begins with the sun's rising — then his own —
then his early breakfast — and he dwells principaUy on
that alloy to pleasure, the tolls of the respective turn
pike-gates he and his friend passed through in a gig !
And I have been to Hampton Court, next to Wind
sor the most interesting of tbe regal residences of
England. The Queen is certainly well palaced — Buck
ingham, St. James's, Kensington, Hampton Court,
Claremont, Windsor, Brighton, and others, to say
nothing of distant Holyrood. We proceeded to
Hampton Court in an open carriage, the way we came
from Richmond, through Kensington, Hammersmith,
Kew, etc. We turned off short when we reached Rich
mond, and stopped first at Twickenham, three miles
further. Pope's VUla and Grotto are no more; a not
very "distant age, asks where the fabric stood,"
and is obhgingly shewn the site. It is so common a
saying in England, "this is the site of so-and-so's

AN AMERICAN LADY. 203
house;" and if you inquire why the house itself was not
there, the answer is as ready as a borrower's cap, " 0
the ground was wanted for something else;" — and as
all reverence for the holy and the classical is wanting
also, down comes the house of the man of genius, and
perhaps some barber cuts and curls hair for sixpence,
and sells authentic bear's-grease, in its stead ! We in
America are accused, and not always unjustly, of giving
too fine names to our towns and villages — the English
seem to reserve them for the shaving-soaps and otber
things indispensable, as every advertiser will make
affidavit, to a well-ordered toilet — no English gentleman
can shave now-a-days unless in Greek !
W^e saw the monument in Twickenham church,
which Bishop Warburton erected to Pope — it is above
a side-gallery; also the spot where lies the feared and
flattered of princes and nobles, a scourge of dunces, and
a magnificent egotist. Some lines of the poet breathe
a strain of prophecy (I have been told that the same
word in Latin signifies both poet and prophet); they
warn thence his countrymen; and so intimate the
gradual decay and destruction of his grotto.
"Approach; but awful! Iq ! th' Egerian grot.
Where, nobly pensive, St. John sat and thought ;
Where British sighs from dying Wyndham stole.
And the bright flame was shot through Marchmont's soul.
Let such, such only, tread this sacred floor,
Who dare to love their country, and be poor.''
As not one in ten thousand of modern Englishmen
could enter the grotto if the poet's injunction were at

204 LETTERS FROM
all regarded, perhaps its demolition was a proper
measure, better than its continuous desecration.
On our way to Twickenham we passed Strawberry
Hill, a nondescript looking, and therefore characteristic,
house. Here Horace Walpole collected his paintings,
and antiques, and furniture, and china, aud nonde
scripts; the which he hoped, may be, would long be
retained in his mansion, his family, or his country;
Apollo, or whatever classic deity he invoked —
" heard but half his prayer.
The rest he bade the winds disperse in empty air;"
and my Lord Waldegrave dispersed the collection to
all parts of the world. From Twickenham we pro
ceeded through Bushy Park, where resides that truly
Christian and charitable lady, tbe Queen Dowager;
and we pass through a magnificent avenue of chestnut-
trees, and we are soon at Hampton Court Palace.
'What a noble front ! What noble quadrangles ! There
it stands — a bribe for the Eighth Harry — a prison for
the First Charles! Not in its ancient state, however,
for considerable additions were made to it by Sir
Christopher Wren. And you may stroll at leisure
along the grounds, or into the Palace, unquestioned
and unobstructed. This is as it should be; and as no
injury accrues to any part' of tbe property, why close
other places on the plea of apprehended mutilation?
The paintings are a long list, and a long summer's
day is all too short to see them. Here are the far-
famed Cartoons of Raffaelle. I cannot describe or

AN AMERICAN LADY. 205
criticise, only feel them — feel their tranquillising influ
ence, and wish to feel it and muse alone. Lord Byron
gazed around him in tbe gaUery at Florence, until he
was " dazzled and drunk with beauty." Mr. Dickens,
when he gazed upon that wonder of two worlds (the old
as the new), the Falls of Niagara, felt his mood swayed
very differently, for he tells of no mental or visual
dazzlement or drunkenness, but of peace and soberness.
But Hampton Court — bere also are fine paintings in
distemper, by Andrea Mantegna, a name unfamiliar to
English ears; and speaking-looking portraits, by Titian;
and proofs how Sir Peter Lely stole sleepy eyes and
wrought on animated canvass. King Charles's Beauties,
as they are called, are here; very beautiful they may
be, and I fear their praise ends there. A lady can have
little pleasure in looking upon them; but I could not
help whispering to Jlrs. Mortimer, that handsome as
they might be, I would say of them as Lear of Mad
Tom — "Only, I do not like the fashion of their
garments." I wonder the late British sovereigns have not resided
here, for here is every thing to render an abode a
pleasant one. It was a favourite dwelling-place with
that glum person William the Third, and of his suc
cessor, "great Anna," and her successor, George the
First, who certainly had one of tbe oddest qualifications
for a ruler — he spoke no English — did not understand
the language of tbe people he was called upon to
govern ! To monarchise must be so very easy. I believe

206 LETTERS FROM
George the Second was the last of the sovereigns who
resided here for any continuance.
The ponds are very fine, and the gold and silver fish
swim to tbe water's edge, expecting contributions from
tbe public, and who can refuse it to such innocent
sinecurists? Then we saw the immense vine — a whole
vintage in itself — the grapes are sent to her Majesty's
table; the gardens are extensive; and there are two
short rows of trees curiously interlaced and matted
together in tbeir upper branches, so as to fling a deep
gloom on the path below; this was a favourite walk,
we were told, of Queen Mary — the Mary of WiUiam
the Third. I apprehend she had not feeling enough
to walk there musing sadly on her dethroned parent.
And there is the Maze, nearly similar to that in the
private garden of Mr. ,  at — — -; any one may pur
chase sixpenny-worth of puzzlement in the Maze. I
would have liked well enough an attempt to overcome
its difficulties, had only our own party observed us, but
there were others; and as the English were sure to have
laughed loudly and rudely to testify the delight they
experienced in a lady faihng to attain the goal of this
clever labyrinth; who, under such circumstances, could
make the experiment? Not I — nor I am sure would
you. There were many visitors in the Palace, and the
wearisomeness several manifested was remarkable —
their watches were consulted far more eagerly than
their catalogues. Why go they, if they are so easily

AN AMERICAN LADY. 207
fatigued? I suppose for the reason which induced
some one to go down into a coal-pit, to say he had been
there! It was with regret I walked on our return
through the lofty gates of Hampton Court.
Cardinal Wolsey ! What romance, what poetry, there
is in his character and career! It was objected on his
behalf, that
" Men's evil manners Hve in brass ; their virtues
We write in water;"
and this is too often true; but his taste and munificence
are written in enduring characters in this majestic
structure. If the Cardinal did write " I, and the king,"
he was veracious though impolitic, for he was the far
greater man of the two. What witchery, what com
mand, there is in genius ! I have quoted you a sentence
from Shakspeare, as if it were a reality; so indeed it
is — a reality in its unchanging truthfulness to human
nature. The Cardinal's scarlet hat was among the
curiosities of Strawberry HUl, and sold to Mr. Charles
Kean — I forget for how many guineas. I hope he
does not mean to play in it — but no, he must be above
such trickery; it would attract some, and some would go
to shew how witty they could be on tbeir favourite
quotation of " all round my hat."
On the following day we were in a very different
scene. I told you Mr. Wilderton would walk almost
anywhere, or I meant to tell you so, if his carriage
could be kept in view. Well, on this occasion, we got
out of it a little below St. Giles's church. St. GUes's

208 LETTERS FROM
being, I am told, the Faubourg, if I may use the word,
the most resembling, but surpassing the while, the Five
Points of New York. W^e walked along Monmouth-
street, the Monmouth-street which has become pro
verbial for secondhand finery —
" Where tarnished lace and rufiles black.
And velvet coat from gallant's back,"
used no doubt to be exposed of old; but now, though
there are secondhand articles of attire to redundancy;
of finery, first, second, or third hand, there is none at
all; dirty-looking are the garments, and keen-looking
the Jews who vend them. All seemed unhealthy; but
I am told some of these old-clothes people realise
rather considerable fortunes in this way — health and
decency are customary and every-day sacrifices to the
darling deity of the English.
We strolled on until we came to a place called Seven
Dials, seven streets opening out of a small seven-
cornered space — of course there are no dials, or in all
probability it would not have been so called. I had
heard and read of this place, and expected to have
found it far worse; all appeared decorous enough, but I
was unfavourably impressed with the manners or want
of manners of the locality, from the great number of gin
palaces. We walked about some of the adjacent streets,
and saw swarthy-looking foreigners lounging about, or
gazing from their opened windows; they were so rich
in moustache and beard. Emma Wilderton said, when
she saw so many of these unrazored persons, (I wonder

AN AMERICAN LADY. 209
if they ever venture to Sheffield); she " always wished
to be a fairy, and in the very witching time of night
she would send a flock of bares to the sleeping and
unsuspicious foreigners, each like one of Cowper's
tame hares, which, he says, used to bite the hair from
his temples!" The wish for fairy power is natural;
but the purpose for which it was desired, and the
means to be used are odd enough !
Poor Cowper ! How his poetry helped him as it did
Pope, through that long disease, his hfe. I believe the
men of modern England — to-day's England (of course
I mean the major part of them), would as soon eat
Cowper's tame pets of hares as any wUd ones; and
after their slow d-epast would merely remark upon the
flavour, knowiifg the while that it was a Cowperian
hare. One never palls on Cowper's poetry — " no crude
surfeit reigns " in his pleasant pages; his blank verse
is so full of matter and truth — blank only in its name;
the Task is an evergreen one. In Cowper's pages the
reader is never lost in sweets, like a fly in molasses
(there's a simile which would gladden the understand
ing spirit of Mr. Walter Guy); and one cannot say so
much of some very popular works.
Well, my digressiveness (I know its a fault, and
perhaps, poor human nature, like it better on that very
account) — is ingenious, to flee to Cowper and criticism
from the Seven Dials ! This part is called Soho, which
appears a district name; and we walked on until we
found ourselves in Soho Square, where are many music-
k2

210 LETTERS FROM
sellers and a famed bazaar, in which very many young
women sell very raany things; much might be said in
praise thereof, but it might require Mrs. TroUope's pen
to do it sufficient justice. Bazaars are better adapted
to tbe East of the old, than the West of the new world;
— at least they do not always prosper in Cincinnati, and
an unsuccessful speculator in one of those multifarious
establishments has been known to take very broad re
venge, for the United States of North America through
their length and width have been misrepresented in
consequence; — it was bravely done too, and with no
allaying dash of woman's timidity. 0 much offending
Cincinnati! Hath it yet repented?
From Soho Square you raay walk, into long, and
straight, and diversely paved Oxford-street — we called
at a place called the Pantheon, once a theatre, now
a bazaar; but much inferior to the one in Soho Square.
There were a great raany people sauntering about, and
many pictures were bung up for sale, and continued
to hang, being seldom sold. There are many similar
places in London; but they present httle to interest.
In the better ones, there are as many aspirants to a
stall that may be vacant by death or removal, as there
are from clergymen under similar circumstances.
In no country in the world, so wretchedly as in
England, can a young woman, reared so as to be unfitted
for domestic service, support herself safely or honour
ably; if she have not accoraplisbments, many and showy
enough to obtain her the situation of a governess.

AN AMERICAN LADY. 211
I do not know what she can do to earn bread and water.
The English profess to regret this, and 'selon leurs
regies' see no means of altering it, and so pronounce
it impossible; they make not a single effort to amend
the matter, and cry, " impossible," " impossible ! " An
Englishman would pronounce it "impossible" to relieve
his starving foster-mother, as he was on his way to
purchase a pipe of port of some curious vintage to be
bottled for the revelry of after years — " impossible ! "
How is it known to be "impossible?" Gas-lights and
steam-vessels were at first pronounced "impossible."
Nay, the establishment of Christianity itself was declared
"impossible" by the misbelievers — the evil-doers —
the credulous in many gods and goddesses of old.
Impossible! How English adjectives are misused!
Ever, etc.

212 LETTERS FROM

LETTER XXIL

WASHINGTON AND JACK - THE - GIANT - KILLER  EARLY RISING — A
FAVOURITE PRECEPT  THE LATE DUKE OF SUSSEX — THE LYING-
IN-STATE  THE CROWD  THEIR REMARKS  THE FUNERAL —
ROYALTY  CHRONICLE OF ROYAL DRIVINGS AND DININGS —
MEAGRE AND UNSATISFACTORY.

My Dearest Julia, London,  1843.
There are very many things in London
worthy of remark, and calculated to interest you that
I must pass over unnoticed, or notice as cursorily as
Mr. Dickens does Mount Vernon, " We are passing
Mount Vernon," says he, "where Washington lies
buried." Could not tbe English author pay even a
passing tribute of respect to departed greatness, and
such greatness ? To be sure in his American Notes, he
gives us a sketch of Jack-the-Giant-KUler; but Wash
ington — the patriot, the conqueror, the law-giver, the
ruler — is not so honoured; and yet tbe Giants he over
came were formidable enough — how are they named?
Prejudice, Pride, Obstinacy, Oppression, Bigotry. John
Bunyan's Pope and Pagan were far less fearful to his
protestant pilgrim,
I have been induced to overcome two of my dislikes:

AN AMERICAN LADY. 213
those of rising early and encountering a crowd. I
know, I can at this distance appreciate, all you will say
about the advantages of early rising; and MUton's
description of morn, " with charm of earliest birds," is
very fine as weU as true, and so are the lines Thomson
composed in his noon-day bed, indignantly rebukeful
of the slothful backwardness of 'that falsely-luxurious
man, who slumbers when he should arise and enjoy
" The cool, the fragrant, and the silent hour.
To meditation due and sacred song."
I do not clearly understand how, if the hour be due to
sacred song, it can be epitheted as silent; but let that
pass. Were there early birds (that is, iu Milton's
sense) or sacred song in London, one might be induced
to go forth to nature's matins. As it is — don't chide,
I seldom rise before nine (now don't exclaim so). I
admit the force of Thomson's precepts; but then, Julia,
his example! Byron also exquisitely describes the
morn, " the dewy morn " — be generally rose about two
in the afternoon.
WeU, I arose early, to witness a spectacle that can
never be witnessed in America — a royal " lying-in
state." The Duke of Sussex, the uncle of the Queen,
died at Kensington Palace, and there was the ceremony
to be holden^— open to all persons (and vrithout, a fee !)
in decent mourning — that is, not in actual grief, but
in " customary suit of solemn black." The wearing of
mourning for the Duke of Sussex was common through
out England by royal command; and I think, though

214 LETTERS FROM
I can hardly tell why, the English ladies look best in
black. They seem to dress more tastefully in it than
in colours; indeed, it is less easy "in the sable garb of
woe" to offend against good taste. Mr, and Mrs.
Mortimer accompanied me. We breakfasted in my
apartments at half-past eight, and as the morning was
fine we walked to the Palace, a mUe perhaps, and found
ourselves in a motley crowd — may I say motley? At
any rate motley was not their only wear exteriorly, for
black was; but they were motley in mien and character.
We faced the crowd, Mr, Mortimer said, manfully— I
felt it was womanly — however there was no retreating,
and we waited with what patience we might, untU we
could be admitted into tbe chamber of death.
The observations which we could not but hear in
the crowd were by no means of a lugubrious character;
still the crowd was what in England is called decorous.
I heard one youth tell his companion that be had come
up frora Cambridge on purpose to see the old Duke
planted; and the commentaries on the deceased prince's
life and character were quite as free as an American
crowd could have uttered. The Duke was to be buried,
his own desire, in Kensal Green Cemetery, instead of
the royal vault at Windsor. " 0 !" said the young
collegian, in explanation, " he would have been a non
entity at W^indsor, but at Kensal Green he'll be an
important personage, a truly great body." As he em
phasised the two last words there was a laugh at this
gross allusion to the late prince's stature and corpulency.

AN AMERICAN LADY. 215
In America, we consider the English attached to mo
narchical institutions and to the royal famUy, and the
Duke of Sussex is represented as having been popular
— then why these remarks? He dared in his youth
(and in his mature age also) to marry like the people,
despite the Royal Marriage Act, which George the
Third, when be was accounted sane too, caused his
obsequious parliament to pass, and had endeared him
self — I mean the Duke — in many respects to the people
— and yet they talked thus ! Jested, and made holiday !
One venerable-looking man rebuked a youth near him :
"Dtm't talk so,"- said he, "but pay respect to the
memory of the Duke, if for nothing but his grey hairs ?"
"Didn't he wear a wig?" returned the lad, and the
few who heard it laughed merrily ! One reads in the
papers that the crowd was orderly, and that no accidents
occurred, but unless eye and ear witnesses, how little
one knows of the by-play — of tbe real feelings of the
multitude. The police were very numerous, and barriers and
stoppages were so arranged that no great confusion
could ensue. Tbe gates were opened at ten o'clock,
and how tardily we advanced. Every now and then a
slow movement was performed, and a gentleman near
me — I could not see him — warbled on each occasion
" Hey, Jim along, get along Josey," the burden of
one of those unintelligible songs so beloved of very
raany Englishmen; for the no-meaning of such can
ticles is grateful to them. But "time and the hour

216 LETTERS FROM
runs through the roughest day," as well as the thickest
crowd, though it was more than two hours before we
emerged. However, we at last found ourselves on tbe
grand staircase, and at the top stood his late Royal
Highness's Highland piper,
" All plaided and plumed in his tartan array.''
He was solacing himself (for I saw it) with some
colourless beverage (whiskey, or water, by possibihty),
which a domestic poured from a decanter concealed in
a recess, and which the piper drained from a wine glass
having the foot knocked off — a fine-looking Highlander
he was. We then entered an ante-chamber, where
stood two persons, described as a Burmese page and a
Hanoverian jager (how this was appropriate to the
obsequies of a British prince I never learned), and
then we stood in the Presence Chamber : I suppose I
may call it so, for there was the coffin, and the room
was hung with fluted black cloth, as were the staircase
and ante-room; and waxen tapers in silver sconces
diffused dim light, and royal emblazonments hung
around, and a coronet rested on tbe coffin, which was
covered with rich crimson velvet, while chief mourners,
not by right of consanguinity, but of custom, sat at its
head — and in the chamber of death were thus gathered
the vanities of life.
All this may be to enforce upon plebeians the great
ness of royalty, A prince of the blood, a peer of Great
Britain, has passed away; but let it not be impressed
upon men's minds that he is now nothing —
"To the meanest of reptiles a peer and a prey."

AN AMERICAN LADY. 217
No. Let heraldry and gorgeousness yield their aid, and
shew that a prince is mighty even in death !
Wben we entered the palace the crowd was silent,
and the sound of the slowly-moving feet on tbe matted
flooring was solemn and strange. From the coffin-
room we passed into another apartment, also hung with
black, and then regained tbe open air, a temporary
staircase having been erected from one of the palace-
windows into the gardens. The air was such a relief,
for within, it had become rather stifling. It was stated
in the papers that twenty-five thousand persons wit
nessed this lying-in-state.
The foUowing day was the funeral. I saw the pro
cession from a window in Kensington; we repaired
thither too soon and had to wait. Mr. Mortimer recog
nised a city acquaintance in the room, and they spoke
of some approaching election. "I should have talked it
over with Alderman  yesterday," said the gentle
man, " but he was detained so long disposing of persons
charged with destitution." The very words, charged
with destitution, and to be punished for it; — could not,
if no other offence were imputed, some fund be charged
with restitution to those culprits, as they are held in
London, of the means of subsistence and employment ?
" Pray," asked Mr. Mortimer, " do you know if Mr. 
was in tbe House of Commons on Monday night?"
"I really cannot tell," was the answer, "perhaps not;
but he might indeed be unnoticed — might be there, and
no one be the wiser for it." I fancy as much might be
said of very many honourable members.

218 LETTERS FROM
But the funeral procession — it was most pompous —
plumes, robes, paraphernalia, music, royal carriages
with their six horses — you will see the detaU in the
public prints. The crowd underneath the window
where we sat were merry enough; but were quieter
when the procession appeared in the street, along which
it wound, though not in toilsome march, its long array.
Royalty needs many adjuncts, many adventitious aids
to give it due weight, to make it appear a mighty thing
— a visibly powerful thing — standing aloof and above tbe
every-day world — above aristocracy itself; but subject
the whUe to the vulgar passions and bodily sufferings,
hunger and cold excepted, of tbe many. The sim
plicity of a republic prefers to appeal directly to the
public mind ; but royalty will rather dazzle the public
eye, whilst its high-sounding titles fill the ear. It is
surely no small testimony to the excellence of repub
lican institutions, that outward show may be dispensed
with. " The stone," says Lord Bacon, " had need to
be rich that is set without foil,"
The very walkings and drivings, and luncheons and
dinners, of royalty, must be chronicled, as if they were
attributes of superior beings, or as if it were greatly
daring of princes to walk, or ride, or eat. Why do not
these courtly scribes go further, and if it be so essential
to the satisfaction of the Queendoms to chronicle tbe
dinner and the guests, why not detail the dishes also?
Or tell if the appetite, like the rank of royalty, soars
beyond the reach of ordinary humanity? And why

AN AMERICAN LADY. 219
hear we not of the sportive raillery — the well-natured
badinage — the flashing wit, or the eloquent discussion
that doubtless ever render the gracefully -arranged
dinner and dessert tables in royal halls scenes of
inteUectual repast, as of delicious riands? Why are
these things kept from loving subjects? Surely the
courtly chroniclers do but half their duty; telling of
dinners, isolated dinners, and nothing more, save the
names of the honoured guests; not a dress is described
to make ladies admire — and sigh; not the composition of
a single dish vouchsafed to pleasure the also sighing
gourmand ; and from all that prodigality of wit, not a
single witticism to enchant the sprightly; not a reflec
tion to interest the grave. 0 fie ! fie !
I find there were booths erected to sell provisions on
the hne of His Royal Highness's funeral, and other
means taken to ensure to the people their favourite
enjoyments. Congratulations on the fine morning
passed frequently from mouth to mouth, "Ah! you
here, to see the poor old Duke's procession; so for
tunate in the weather; so distressing if it had rained."
And for what occasion gathered this crowd? What
pageantry was in store? A Coronation pomp? A
Queen's marriage? A Conqueror's triumphal entry?
No— an old man's funeral — the restoring earth to earth
— and " so fortunate in tbe weather !"
We escape such anomalies in the United States.
The newspapers, which in general speak respectfully of
royalty, and properly so in a monarchial government.

220 LETTERS FROM
admit that there was no manifestation of grief — show
occupied the place of sorrow. It was said Prince Albert
manifested more sadness than any of the other attend
ants at the deceased prince's obsequies. I can readily
believe it. His Royal Highness, not in his nature, but
in his naturalization is an Englishman; callousness in
feeling, selfishness in affection, are not characteristic
of him. I felt grave and thoughtful — I, a stranger
and a republican; for I remembered a death in a far
distant land, and how it was mourned with real anguish.
Grief has not yet laid its blighting hand on you, dear
Julia, and long — long be its touch averted. I should
bitterly lament if your bright eyes, "young Peri of tbe
West," were to be dimmed from sleepless sadness—
your spirits crushed beneath the weight of suffering;
but you are too joyous a thing for these gloomy fore
bodings. Adieu; I long to add, "au revoir."
Ever, etc.

AN AMERICAN LADY. 221

LETTER XXIIL

SLAVERY  POLICE STATION-HOUSE — OFFICER — -SEVERE AND STERN
TO VIEW  IRISH ORATORY'  ALDERMEN  SMALL LEGISLATION 
BEGGARS  HOSPITALS  EXETER-H ALL ORATORY.

Dearest Julia, London,  1843.
I always avoid arguments upon slavery, but
sometimes they are forced upon me; and those English
ladies who know just the least of the matter, are the
most energetic in their abolition advocacy. Why can't
America emancipate her slaves as England did? is a
common query, as coolly advanced as if the occurrence
took place some time last century. Why the British
government, out of its enormous resources, purchased
the freedom of the slaves ; and if all America had the
same desire, has she the means ? PhUanthropic as the
English are, especially when the object is afar off, and
even while their wealth is greater than their philan
thropy, no one can expect that they wUl ever offer to
pay to another country a full and fair price for their
bondsmen, that slavery raay be no raore. Then how
is the manumission to be accomplished ? But raore of
this, perhaps, some other tirae.

LETTERS FROM
And I have been engaged in such a vexatious adven
ture. I have been to a police station-house — I — and
personally — not accused, don't fear — only interested.
I dined yesterday at Dr. C.'s, and, leaving early, re
turned to Piccadilly about nine. I had given Kathleen
leave to pay a visit to some acquaintance in the city;
she had not returned, but an old Irish woman appeared
as her ambassadress, had been waiting for me, and
would wait until she saw me. It was some time before
I could understand what had really happened.
" And, shure, marm, she was not at all to blame— the
cratur, because she was permiscus as well as innocent;
and if the boys did fight, it wasn't the bad feelin', but
the dhrink that did it; and the poor young woman,
which is little to me, for sign's on it, I don't remember
the name of her, and — whisper, my lady, God bless
you — it's broken-hearted she is — "
"Broken-hearted! Why, what has happened?"
"Indeed, then, and she 's locked down."
"Down? down where?"
" Musha, marm, she 's in throuble."
" WeU, but what's the nature of the trouble?"
"Natur, my lady? Arrab, and it's ill-natur'd tbey
are, and black-hearted to the boot of that, to think of
sarvin' her so, and she not able to spake for the tears
that choked her."
" But where is she ?"
"In the station-house, my lady."
"The station-house!"

AN AAIERICAN LADY. 22'o
" Off of Smithfield, my lady."
It seems that before Kathleen reached the abode of
her friend — who was her mother's half-brother, an
elderly man — a quarrel had taken place among some
visitants, and a skirmish and a broken head. "The
current of tbe heady fight" had ceased to flow ere she
entered the room, but an alarm of "police" was given,
and the party, disliking the publicity that might be
extended to their disagreement in opinion, fairly rushed
forth and got clear away, broken head and all, leaving
Kathleen bewUdered, and waiting for explanation; her
bonnet had been accidentally crushed by one of the
party as he hurried out. She was about to depart when
a policeman arrived, seized Kathleen, and in spite of
all her explanations would take her to prison. " There
was blood upon the floor," he said, " and murder might
take place there some day." So with provident sagacity
he apprehended a person perfectly innocent, to subject
her to the degradation and perhaps ruin of imprison
ment; for the poor girl might have been deprived of
her situation in consequence, and flung, without a friend
or a character, upon the hard world that had so wronged
her — a common occurrence in London.
As the policeman and bis prey, securely clutched,
gained the street, they passed an apple-stall, where sat
the old woman who came to me; and as Kathleen had
asked her some questions, and loitered a moment to do
it, in going to the scene of contest, and as not five
minutes had since elapsed, time alone shewed that the

224 LETTERS FROM
poor girl could not be a guilty combatant. The apple-
seller stated this: the policeman listened, and then,
after the manner and language of such men, said,
"Both Irish — Walker! I see through the dodge-
walk along with me."
The poor old woman, indignant at this injustice,
consigned her fruit to some vicarial saleswoman, pro
ceeded to the station-house, where she learned from
Kathleen who she was, and it was agreed upon consul
tation that I was to be visited. The ever-smiling and
obliging lady of the house was told all this before 1
returned, but replied d I 'Anglaise, she made a rule
never to interfere when any one she knew was in a dif
ficulty of this sort, and she could not think (conscien
tious person !) of breaking a rule. For a moment I was
puzzled how to proceed, but determined to drive to
Mr. N.'s, and obtain his professional assistance, taking
the old woman with rae: luckily I had kept the
carriage waiting. I had some difficulty in persuading
my new acquaintance to be my carriage companion.
"And shure, marm, as to a rale lady's carriage, I
never was in it afore; hut's seen betther days, God help
me ! and I'U walk, yer ladyship, for I don't know how
to demane myself in the carriage."
In what signification she spoke of "demeaning"
herself, whether as to behaviour or humUity I do not
know; perhaps we raust understand it in a double sense,
UnluckUy, I found Mr, N. was dining at some distant
tavern, for the benefit of sorae hospital, and the hour

AN AMERICAN LADY. 225
of his return was uncertain, so I at once ordered the
surprised coachman, for I had to bid him twice, to drive
to this station-bouse,
I thought, foolish creature, that the authorities there
would regard the truth, for I could prove from the
hour Kathleen left me, that only an excellent walker
could have attained the locality of the fight by the time
she was taken into custody; whilst the said fight, with
its preliminary quarrelsomeness, had been of consider
able duration. W^e stopped at a rather large house in
Smithfield :_ before we alighted, I requested my com
panion to be silent unless spoken to; for she was
so excitable, I feared her volubUity might prejudice
Kathleen. We entered a railed, barriered, and benched
room, and advancing, accosted two police-officers, who
sat doing nothing in very English sUence; and, as they
were in a sort of boxed-off recess, they could only be
spoken to over a barricade. One man was fat and
quiet-looking, bloated, but not unhealthily, as if his
colour were attributable to much cold weather as well
as hot gin; the other man was gaunt, and looked, 0 !
the crossest of the cross, as if vinegar were his ordinary
drink, or rather an agreeable relaxation from the greater
acidity of his diet; a smile was impossible to the coarse
ruggedness of his feature : like the brute the poet writes
of, if he was pleased, he would growl his horrid joy.
I asked if one Kathleen O'Reilly was confined there?
The man so austere in ugliness, after a pause, and
without ever looking up, answered, "Yes." The tone
L

226 LETTERS FROM
was like what a drunken man in a pet might blow out
of a bassoon, only hoarser and sharper.
" Pray what is her offence ?"
"Who the devil are you?" stiU without looking up.
I gave my name and address.
"What do I care who you are; do you think I have
nothing to do but sit here to answer idle questions?"
As the official man was sitting there doing nothing,
I could not see the peculiar hardship of his answering
questions. "But — but is there no legal way of accomplishing
her liberation for to-night? I will deposit a sum of
money to ensure her appearance to-morrow. Will
that do ?"
"No; and I'll not answer another question,"
Here he gave a stamp with a look of ferocity that
might have frightened Van Amburgh, or that tiger-
tamer to tbe Nabob, Had I seen anything like this
on the stage, I should have said the part was sadly
over-acted. I was utterly at a loss what next to do,
and was thinking of addressing myself to the fat man,
and asking him if I could see Kathleen, when my
Hibernian attendant broke in, her rage being beyond
controlment. "Arrah, then, and the curse o' Crummell upon you,
you shaved hysena, you; is it for the likes o' you to
talk that way to a lady ? Is it because you are so used
to spake to thieves and the likes of your ugly self, that
you cannot answer a lady in her own carriage without

AN AMERICAN LADY. 227
showing you 're a falsehearted blackguard, and a dis
grace to tbe mother that rared you, God pity her and
forgive her for it ! What d' you sit there for, if not to
say your say 'bout the pris'ners, what may all be your
betthers, you unnat'ral savage! Sorrow to the tribe
of yez, that eats such idle bread, and can't eat it civilly.
"What are you paid for? Tell me that — what are you
there for ? And tell the lady what she wants to know,
or I'll ffing my patten at the head of yez to get before
the Lord Mayor, and tell his honour the rights of it."
The officer listened coolly enough, and the good
woman had gathered breath for another volley, and had
just commenced, " Bad sessions to you !" — and how all
would have ended I cannot tell, for I was at my wit's
end, when Mr, N, appeared. He returned home soon
after I called, was told what the business was, and
foUowed me directly, W^ithout preface, hke one used
to such scenes, he tendered bail, which the officer posi
tively refused; he was deaf alike to Mr. N.'s expostu
lations and threats, and we could only leave poor
Kathleen to stay all night in her horrid lodgings;
luckUy, I had my large cloak with me, which I left
her, for there was neither bed nor couch. Mr. N. told
her he would attend before the Alderman on her behalf
to-morrow, and we came away. Early on the following
morning Kathleen was called, and briefly told tbe
charge against her was abandoned, and she might go,
and be sure not to come there again.
Thus the matter ended; for Mr. N. advised us that

LETTERS FROM
it was useless to proceed further, or complain to an
Alderman of the misconduct of the subordinate officials,
really he was less complimentary to the Aldermen than
was Lord Brougham in the House of Peers, and Kath
leen was imprisoned and I insulted without a remedy,
or a remedy that was not to be resorted to. Happily
the poor girl was the only prisoner; no blame whatever
was attributable to ber, for she arrived, as Wamba
recommends, "at the end of tbe fray," and the only
one she knew of the party was her uncle, who is a
sober well-conducted man generally, but this day there
had been some national festival, and then a fight.
I had the curiosity to inquire how the Alderraen
were qualified for the iraportant office of magistrate in
a great city, and find that a shopkeeper or merchant,
whose knowledge of law may be derived from reading
police reports alone, may be elected Alderman, and
becomes a magistrate at the moment. A very odd, if
very ready way of creating a Justice of Peace! But
then they practise principally upon the poor, and can
experiraent upon them untU some little legal knowledge
has been gained; and they are rich, and give exceUent
dinners, and if the scales of justice are not nicely
balanced, doubtless the literal scales in the warehouses
of such " respectable " gentlemen are, and all must be
magisterially as commercially correct. The poor should
not get into scrapes — and why have they the audacity
to allow themselves to be charged with destitution —
can't they hunger, and thirst, and suffer, and die in

AN AMERICAN LADY. 229
peace? Many of these civic dispensers of law (from
the accounts in the papers) think it fitting to reason
and argue with the accused, nay, even to jest with
them! If merriment be proper or desirable in the
police courts of the Mansion House or Guildhall, why
not engage a professional jester as of old, with proper
salary and perquisites; and the gentlemen of the press
might then have sayings quaint, apposite, or witty
enough to be worth reporting? Of all things, save me
from the ponderous in jocularity.
No doubt the Irish get into very many scrapes here,
and often give a practical negation to a favourite
quotation of their popular orator —
" Hereditary bondsmen — know ye not
Who would be free, themselves must strike the blow! — "
here, those who strike the blow are themselves deprived
of freedom; properly enough, no doubt, in many
instances. I could hardly induce the poor old apple-
woman to accept a few shillings; she hadn't earned
them, she said: but she was really oriental in her
thanks and benedictions. I hope that in America an
almost magisterial authority is never delegated or con
tinued to such a man as I met at the station-house.
Some travellers bave blamed the Americans for too
great fondness for legislation. I do not mean in Con
gress, but in small matters; the same may be said of
the English — such long speeches at vestries, and cor
porations, and all kinds of meetings for all manner of
purposes, possible or impossible. In many book-clubs

230 LETTERS FROM
there is such a code of laws, rules, and regulations,
that one is afraid of offending; happUy, they are often
unintelligible, and then ignorance is bliss. Even
social and convivial societies, I am told, have their
restrictive laws — not only the tune, but the rule must
regulate the harmony of the members. Debating
societies seem rare, and of no high character; rising
orators now can practise sufficiently in other places;
there is no difficulty in obtaining public speakers for
any purpose in London, but there may not be the same
facihties in obtaining attentive hearers.
Open-air preachers are or were not uncommon in tbe
parks on Sundays, sometimes the police interfere and
sometimes not. Hawkers of songs, three yards for a
penny, are frequent enough, and so are itinerant ven
ders of any lie likely to sell. There are street-beggars,
but not very many — how free New York is! London's
poverty is not to be seen in the streets, nor are the
habitual beggars the fit objects of charity, Tbe
Mendicity Society, as it is generaUy called, that is tbe
Society for the Suppression of Mendicity, have rooted
out several long established corporations of mendicants
— reformed them altogether. You remember Charles
Lamb's pleasant essay, a complaint of tbe decay of
beggars in the Metropolis. The Enghsh people like
to dwell upon the exposure of begging impostors, and
would draw the inference that all who crave alms
are simUarly bad, Alas, for the sick and suffering
thousands who do not crave alms!

AN AMERICAN LADY. 231
During one season, I was told, the fever-wards in
the Hospitals were insufficient for tbe number of
patients, and the unhappy wretches might spread the
infection through their close-pent neighbourhoods.
There is a talk of new Hospitals: were the deprivation
told of Jamaica, how soon would London be called
upon to wipe off the stigma on humanity — again would
Exeter Hall resound,
" What !" an orator would exclaim, " is our benevo
lence to be bounded by the salt-waters of ocean! Is it
to be a thing of latitude and longitude! Of degrees!
No — let it glow in the tropics — let it flourish at the
poles — heat may not dissolve, nor everlasting frost
congeal it; as it is of subtlest essence, let it be of all-
pervading space. Owe we atonement to Jamaica?
Let us now pay the debt. Owe we health, .moral,
physical, and rehgious, to the long-benighted blacks?
Let us give it. In sickness let us tend them. Let
blessings upon Englishmen, and redoubled blessings
upon English women, be heard in the far Antilles. Let
us fling not only bread, but healing medicaments upon
the waters, and after many days let them be found in
the Islands of the Caribbees. This is not a doctrinal
question; beneficence is of no sect, of no colour. Let
us give a refuge to the fevered wretch, whose parched
tongue and burning eye plead for it more eloquently
than words; and what we do, let us do quickly."
And why not? London can wait for help — the poor
of London are used to it. Ever, etc.

LETTERS FROM

LETTER XXIV.

BEHAVIOUR IN AMERICAN AND ENGLISH THEATRES — LONDON
AUDIENCES LITTLE INTELLIGENT  OPERA  ITS ABSURDITY —
HEROINE SWAN-LIKE IN HER DEATH  INJUDICIOUS APPLAUSE
— IMPROVEMENT IN THE DRAMA  THE BALLET — A COARSE
TASTE — SINGING  WILD BEASTS — PRIVATE THEATRICALS.

Dearest Julia, London,  1843.
I cannot conceive how any lady, excepting of
course Mrs. Trollope, can pronounce the behaviour of
the Americans in their public theatres ruder than that
of tbe English ! In an English theatre no provision is
made for the superior accommodation of ladies; they
do not sit, as of right, in the front row of the boxes,
nor do they either of right or courtesy experience the
attentions they do in an American theatre.
From the little I have seen of the theatres, I mean
to speak of Drury Lane and Covent Garden, as well as
of the Haymarket, which ranks as high for good acting;
the audiences are very indifferent judges of power in
dramatic composition, or skill in histrionic imper
sonation. I have known the finest touches of nature
and poetry in one of Sheridan Knowles's plays pass

AN AMERICAN LADY. 233
perfectly unnoticed. The judicious few who can ap
preciate them may not give their pleasure publicity,
for the very limited demonstration of applause would
instantly be checked by the indignant audience.
"SUence," they would cry. "Order!" "Shame!"
Even the causticity, the point in the comedies of that
very clever Douglas Jerrold, could not in several
instances penetrate through the thick dulness of the
audience; whilst an aUusion to some of the vile popular
vulgarisms of the day, wdth an appropriate grimace to
set it off, " stealing and giving odour," was sure to be
rapturously greeted. It was understood, and it is so
grateful to a duU people to feel they understand any
thing. The same with respect to acting — the exquisite
by-play — the quiet subdued expression of emotion is
hardly recognised. I remember once in a very thin house
seeing Farren act most admirably as well as tranquilly;
no applause ensued; Mr. WUderton offered to clap his
hands once or twice, but desisted, saying cynically,
"he hked not to monopolise all the well-timed ap
plause:" just after, a little man whose name I do not
remember, appeared on the stage, made faces and acted
coarsely, and the commendation was loud and general.
Were it not for the discriminating and often learned
criticisms in the journals, daily or weekly, for oddly
enough weekly publications are often called journals,
the better authors and actors v/ould have small meed of
proper and judicious praise.
Of late. Opera has been the most attractive in the
l2

234 LETTERS FROM
two great theatres. Their prima donnas, with very few
exceptions, the English admit, exquisitely as they may
sing, intonate so indistinctly; — it is common to hear
gentlemen say, " I cannot distinguish a word she
utters." Even Miss Adelaide Kemble was not free
from this fault; but her tragic powers were so great
that she was sure to interest and more than interest
in spite of it. I have smiled at Mr. Wilderton's
critiques on Operas, " The rule in all difficulties or
dUeraraas," said he, " is siraple, to sing a song — when
the heroine is going to be married, jilted, betrayed,
executed, or excruciated, she sings, sometimes sings
her song twice over; any executioners that may be in
attendance, blandly waiting whilst
' she plays the swan.
And dies in music'
Then when a tyrant has schemed a direful murder —
how he warbles ! When a conspiracy is resolved upon,
how harmonious the conspirators are — and often a
number of gentlemen suddenly appear, although not
admitted to the deliberations of the traitors, and sing
the praises of this most melodious plot — most probably
the only plot in tbe Opera."
Once at the Italian Opera, I heard Mr. Wilderton
very happily, as I thought, quote Christopher Sly, of the
Slys that "came in with Richard Conqueror," and will
continue known while the language is known; for —
but what was I going to tell you ? 0 ! Mr. Wilderton's
quotation. " Pray, my dear," said Mrs. Wilderton,

AN AMERICAN LADY. 235
"how do you like it?" — "'Tis a very excellent piece of
work, madam lady," was the answer, "would, 'twere
done." Injudicious applause must always have been charac
teristic of an English audience; an admiration of, or
rather relish for what may not be stamped with genius,
quaintness, or humour — what is merely obvious:
" Such is the shout, the long-applauding note,
At Quin's high plume, or Oldfield's petticoat."
I have been struck with the excellence of the Shaks-
perian performances at Drury Lane, and how wonder
fully the mighty master knew when to bring even
mechanical means to his aid : the knocking at the door
in the murder scenes in Othello and Macbeth, knocks
at one's very heart. How tbe English .public can
crowd to unmeaning operas, I mean in the national
theatres, and let Shakspeare be played, as is often the
ease, to empty benches I cannot understand, except it
be that fashion, however paltry, will carry them any
where. It may be also that " true no-meaning" not
" puzzles," but pleases them " more than wit."
I have heard very intelligent critics say, that tbe
drama, the tragic or classical drama, was now superior
to what it had been since Otway, or at any rate since
Rowe. I think there can be no doubt upon the subject:
Sheridan Knowles, Sergeant Talfourd, and Sir Lytton
Bulwer, being no common men — no managers' play
wrights — no dramatists to order. I think too, that
many of the comedies of the day must be pronounced

236 LETTERS FROM
far better than those of the sentimental school, where
broad grin is alternated with the small whine of sensi
bility, — comedy of this school always seems to me so
slow, it never " shoots folly as it flies," only as it
crawls. I need hardly describe the English actors to you, for
they very generally visit America. — Apropos of visiting
America. Mrs. Richard Davis told me, that one
clothier in tbe cloth-market at Leeds, said to another
— " So, Lord Morpeth is going to America."
"And what is he going there for?"
"0! just for an out-ing;" which is the word the
West Riding Yorkshiremen give to their Sunday ex
cursions. Across the Atlantic for an outing!
To return to the London play-houses, and theatrical
property, or to quote Mr. Dickens, "what is facetiously
called by that name " is not productive of great profit
here. I was going to tell you how I had been pleased with
some comedies that were so equally and evenly well per
formed — servants and all — this I understand is a great
and modern iraproveraent. I ara told that in some
minor theatres, where the audience are regaled with
frequent fire-arms, much blue light, stamps, roars,
grins, and Jack Sheppardism, fortunes are made.
The Italian Opera House is generally well filled, the
boxes being rented by subscribers; the Itahan Opera
is so refined a pleasure — I suppose it is my want of
refinement that causes me to prefer Othello to Otello
(murder set to music) — nay, to think the acting of a

AN AMERICAN LADY. 237
scholar and a gentleman like Macready more enjoyable
than the capering of any active French girl, even though
she can not only stand on her toe, but whirl about on
it! "The greater the fool," says Hook, "the better
the dancer." I cannot describe to you what the ballet
is; but I think the taste of those who delight in it is
a coarse taste, a superficial taste also, which admires
tinsel because it always glitters, and gold only some
times; it is but an eye-pleasure; and as to delicacy;^-
if the ballet be refinement, delicacy and refinement
have little in common.
The prices of admission to the Opera House close
the doors upon all but the rich. It is an exclusive
place; only those in full dress, or what the cheque-
taker pleases to consider such, can be admitted to the
pit. Sometimes there are letters in the papers from
gentlemen gravely complaiuing that they were turned
back by the mere caprice of the official, as tbey had the
authority of their tailors for contending that they were
in fuU dress — unhappy men! As her Majesty's theatre
is thus the resort of fashion, finery, and wealth, its
amusements are of coui'se called refinement; it seems
to me refinement in a disease— craving, unhealthy re
finement. MamseUe, Fanny Easier was certainly very
successful in the United States; but a single dancer,
graceful and confident in herself and ber skill, is not a
ballet. Then there was the very great charm of novelty.
Jim Crow when a novelty was very popular' in England.
The great theatres resemble ours in form, only they

238 LETTERS FROM
are larger — the Opera House the largest. Concerts
are frequent among a people with whom music is a
passion, when it happens to be a fashion, but who do
not feel the eloquence of music like the Italians or
Germans. I have often heard very clever musical per
formances, as well as pleasant singing by young ladies,
pretty ones too, and at private parties, and the con
versation has hardly been interrupted, or if the lady of
the house, by her own intent listening, or by her in
viting the attention of her visitors to the beauty of the
melody, does gain an unwilling silence, the moment
the harp or piano ceases to sound the argument is re
sumed, and carried on until the next performance may
or may not interrupt it; it
" fills each pause the nightingale has made,"
The hearty school of singing, if I may call it so— that
in which lucledon, I presume, and certainly Braham
excelled — is little cared for now. This is not an age
when heartiness is a recommendation.
Then there are societies, and schools, and systems to
teach singing to the million, and to teach schoolmasters
to sing (who, I suppose, will make schoolboys sing in
re-action) ; what practical good all this is intended to
accomplish I have not been informed. It may be con
tended that to know how to sing ill or weU, is better
than to know perhaps nothing at all. Many a boy
who would weary over Robinson Crusoe, and even
slumber over John Gilpin, may be taught to sing pass
ably, warblingly to implore a man not to do as his

AN AMERICAN LADY. 239
employer bid him in felling some tree, or to detail how
firmly INIr. O'More believed in the surpassing good
fortune of uneven numbers! Why may not foohsh
httle boys and girls sing to their own hearts' content
ment (if to none other) — the smaller sort of birds sing
most. Wben great skill, both in acting and singing,
are found in the same person, as in Madame Vestris,
Miss P. Horton, Mrs. Keeley, and others, it is de
hghtful. The rage for wUd beasts — that is for tamed, and
drilled, and beaten wild beasts, stage wild beasts,
inured to the smell of the lamps — seems to have abated.
I cannot understand what pleasure people had in seeing
lions and tigers — aliens strangely naturalised, on the
stage of a theatre, when they could see as fine animals,
and note them closely, in their Zoological Gardens. Is
it the absence of the natural that is the attraction ? — a
gaslight tiger is a rare creature certainly, and so is a
horsewhipped lion. If a bear or a sloth could be taught
to hum or whine " Rule Britannia " it would be a very
inriting exhibition.
Did you ever hear of the remark made by a theatrical
machinist, skUful in the construction of camels and
elephants, when a real live elephant came out, and
"To make them mirth exerted all his might, and wreathed
His lithe proboscis."
"Do you call that an elephant?" said the man; "I
should be ashamed of myself if I couldn't make a
better." Had this professor of animals been asked

240 LETTERS FROM
" Who can work like nature ? " he would have answered,
" I can — and better."
You are not to understand by what I said of the un-
inteUigence of an English audience that the best pieces
do not succeed the best — they generaUy do; the people
are, they must be, impressed with the power or beauty
of the whole, in spite of themselves almost, though the
brilliancy of minute parts may have throughout escaped
them. Still there is an art to hit the taste of an
audience without rauch wit or humour, and some pieces
have been immensely successful because they presented
very old jokes in very new guise. The English hailed
their old acquaintances, and thoroughly understanding
the matter, as no great demand was made upon the
intellect, were dehghted. I must admit that the good
acting forced you to laugh whether you would or no;
but you soon smiled at yourself that you could be
moved to smile at those antiquated absurdities, modernly
and newly tricked out.
I for one pay little attention to the complaints of
the dearth of histrionic excellence — the complaint is so
perennial. In the days of the Kembles, alas for Gar-
rick ! was the cry — now, alas for the Kemble and
the Kean, for Emery and Liston! aud so will the
changes be rung, until the curtain falls upon the last
drama in England.
Private theatricals are soraetiraes the amusement of
the great in tbeir country mansions, and no nation can
boast such country mansions as Great Britain. At

AN AMERICAN LADY. 241
Woburn Abbey, the Duke of Bedford's, and elsewhere,
sometimes a series of tableaux bas been given; an ex
pensive amusement, from the costliness of the dresses,
but rather a tiresome one, I should think, because only
the eye is gratified. Masquerades are in no repute,
and they are not suited to the genius, or rather the
character, of the people, the English not liking to step
out of their own dearly beloved selves even for a night.
Fancy baUs are an approach to a masquerade, for
elegant dresses may be worn, and no further character
istic presented. Lady Jane Grey may be passing silly;
Charles the First a jovial fellow; Oliver Cromwell an
admirable dancer; Benedict be really duller than a
great thaw; and Mercutio worse than Benedict.
I once accepted an invitation to Mrs. K.'s to witness
the performance of a few children, whom their friends
indulged by allowing them to play some scenes from
Richard the Third; the ambitious Gloucester was en
acted by a most lovely boy, with long curly hair and
intelligent eyes — his name was Rilly, and after the
tragedy, to aid us I suppose to wipe away our tears, he
gave us an excellent imitation of Punch — his elbows
appearing jointless, and his voice an unstrained squeak.
Costume was not historically observed, although the
dresses were all of the same era — the present : a sofa
stood upon the place of performance — a part of the
drawing-room inclosed by folding doors, which were the
curtain — and remained there throughout the play,
whether the scene was the Tower or the plain of Bos-

242 LETTERS FROM
worth. When Henry the Sixth was stabbed, the young
gentleman who represented the meek usurper, afraid
perhaps that he might hurt his holy head if he fell
upon tbe floor, staggered trottingly to the sofa, kicked,
and expired there. Gloucester, or rather Rilly, favoured
us with a new reading, whether out of humour, or
whether he thought it a judicious amendment under
the circumstances, I do not know, but thus be exulted
over his victim —
"What! will the aspiring blood of Lancaster
Sink on the sofa? I thought it would have mounted."
Adieu — I am really tired — I can no more, be the offer
ing ever so poor. Ever, etc.

AN AMERICAN LADY. 243

LETTER XXV.

SOUTHAMPTON  ENGLISH JOCULARITY  THE NEXT BEST THING 
ABBEYS  ISLE OF WIGHT  CHARLES THE FIRST  PIER DUES 
SMUGGLING — PORTSMOUTH — THE VICTORY  NELSON  JERSEY
BECOMING A LONDON SUBURB  AMERICAN AND ENGLISH
STEAMERS.

Dearest Julia, London,  1843.
I intimated at the close of one of my letters
that it might be necessary I should visit Portsraouth, one
of my sohcitors accompanying me. It was arranged
that Mr. N. was to do so, and as the weather was fine
Mrs. N. would bear him company, and he would thus
combine the pleasure of a few days' tour with the
duties of his profession. We went by a circuitous
route to Portsmouth, taking the railway to South
ampton in the first instance. By some mistake or
mismanagement my place was not in the same carriage
as Mr. and Mrs. N., so I was and felt alone all the
seventy miles or whatever it be to Southampton. There
was hardly any conversation; to be sure when the train
stopped at the stations there was an attempt to talk, as
if the passengers thought that words were expected of

244 LETTERS FROM
them, and it might be improper to adhere too rigidly
to their favourite rule of taciturnity. Is it not De La
Rochefoucault who says that men never find it so hard
to speak well as when they are ashamed of their silence ?
I never was more convinced of this truth than on this
journey. Were a knowledge of French very general in
England, how popular the Maxims of the selfish and
clever Frenchman would be — more so than Lord
Chesterfield's Letters were. What conversation there
was as we journeyed to Southampton could not much
exhaust the intellect of the speakers; it was principally
criticism and conjecture on the weather — and there was
a repetition of what I suppose the English consider a
joke; when during a stoppage water was pumped into
the engine, it was said " Ay, now tbey 're watering the
horses." Has it not been remarked that the next best
thing to a very good pun is a very bad one? I suppose
the same may be said of any witticism as well as a pun,
and the English are proficients in this "next best
thing." We passed Winchester, but could see little or nothing
of it. I should like to have spent a few hours there,
for it is one of the not very numerous towns in Eng
land distinguished in the history of the country, along
with Oxford, St. Albans, Canterbury, Warwick, as well
as the Northern towns, York, Durham, Newcastle,
Carlisle, etc. etc. It was the birth-place of the weak
and irresolute Henry the Third, surnamed of Winches
ter. His worse and weaker father John resided there.

AN A3IERICAN LADY. 245
and it boasts of the bones of Saxon kings aud queens,
and the coUege founded by tbe famous William of
Wykeham. Southampton is a large and handsome town ; and at
the head of the principal street is a very fine well pre
served bar. It looks, as nearly all English towns do
where there are no manufactures, clean, orderly, and
rich: it stands on an inlet of the sea, called South
ampton Water. Had London stood here, what a view
from the water! What a forest of proud spires and
halls! Well, things must be as they may, and cities
too, I suppose. Southampton was, I believe, the
birthplace of Dr. Watts; but we were not more than
an hour in it before we had to embark for Ryde
in the Isle of Wight. The steam vessel was not very
full, it being too early in the year for Cockney migra
tion to the smaU island. The sail was delightful : on
our right was the New Forest, whence the Conqueror
drove men and women and babes, to make room for
beasts of chase, for he seems to have gone beyond
Nimrod, and was a mighty hunter, his prey being both
man and beast ; and where his son seemed to expiate,
as the age might believe, by a violent and early death,
his father's sins and his own. Lord Byron was evidently
proud of his sins and his forefathers, or ratlier, proud
of calling attention to them in his verses — an odd sub
ject for pride, but he was not as other men. I find,
and was rather surprised to learn it, that the English
have been at the trouble of erecting a stone to mark

246 LETTERS FROM
the site where the red King fell, and where his inani
mate body lay until it was carted off.
To the left, about three miles from Southampton,
were the picturesque ruins of Netley Abbey. I heard
a gentleman on board complain that no use was made
of these ruins, and such like! And why not? By all
means let the utilitarian English make them useful —
here were stones, if piled one upon another and caUed
an abbey, what matters it? They are but idle stones,
and here is a road requiring repair, the v,se to which
they might be profitably put is obvious.
Perhaps no other people, possessed of the wealth of
the English, would not long before this era have con
verted many of tbe noble abbeys that lie ruined over
the island into cathedrals or churches, or have repaired
them for some purpose not foreign to their pristine
character, and thus the beauty of their architecture
would have been preserved, and Christianity have pos
sessed more and grander temples; it is now, perhaps,
too late, and all such ruins are very touching and
beautiful. What a raemento of human uncertainty it
is to read how seme warlike baron, who repented bim
of his slaughters when he could no longer slay, be
queathed a broad domain to a neighbouring abbey that
his soul might know repose, masses being sung for it
by the holy fathers daily and — for ever! How short
an ever!
The water was perfectly smooth, and we sailed
pleasantly to Ryde, the town of Cowes and the banks

AN AMERICAN LADY. 247
of the island looking beautiful from the water. And off
the Isle of Wight were moored a great many pleasure
yachts, kept by wealthy gentlemen (they form a club
too), for their maritime excursions, regattas, etc. — a
manly pastime, and well suited to an insular people.
Some of the yachts, I was told, were magnificently
fitted up, cabins like London apartments gone out to
sea. We landed at the pier at Ryde. Some one, I
beheve Mr. N., caUed attention to the beauty of the
water as it rippled against the pillars of the pier and
the shore at Ryde. "W^hy, yes," said the gentleman
who advocated uses for Netley Abbey, "but it washes
no extent of business." 0 patience, patience, thou art
indeed a difficult goddess to worship !
A thunder-storm prevented our leaving our hotel in
the evening at Ryde. On the following day we rose
early, and, engaging a conveyance, proceeded to Caris
brook Castle, where Charles the First was confined: it
is in the interior of tbe island. In a few months after
Charles left Carisbrook, he realised the truth of the
saying, that the distance is not long from a king's
prison to his grave; the Castle is now one of many
similar places in England "where ruin greenly dwells."
The English do not yet agree, and never will, I fancy,
upon the character of Charles the First — "a martyr,"
say some, "a blessed martyr." "A tyrant," cry others.
Can they not compromise the matter, and call him a
martyr-tyrant or tyrant-martyr? Assuredly he was
hardly dealt with; for if Charles Stuart deserved the

248 LETTERS FROM
scaffold, what should have been the doom of many of
his predecessors? But so it is. The same might be
said with even greater truth of Louis the Sixteenth.
When there has been revolutionary thunder in the
political atmosphere of Europe, there have been always
victims, and "  not always on the guilty head
Descends the fated flash."
America knew how to revolutionise without her
hecatombs of the vanquished. She did not, like re
publican France,
"  get drunk with blood to vomit crime;''
— certainly the most disgusting image a poet could
boldly venture upon, and therefore the fittest. We
returned to Ryde just in time to embark in a small
steamer for a pleasure-sail round the Isle of Wight.
We passed mansions and grounds, and kept gazing
upon a pretty little island, though tame and English in
its prettiness; in some parts the coast was bolder, and
there were caverns, and land-slips as they are called, tbe
earth giving way and falling in a raass into the water—
and we came to the Needles; these are rocks standing
out from tbe land in striking and fantastic forms at
the western corner of the island, very fine and pic
turesque, but far less bold than the rocky coasts of
Northumberland and Berwickshire; than St, Abb's
Head, with its myriads of sea fowl, or the insular Bass
Rock, a giant among giants, whitened with its solan

AN AMERICAN LADY, 249
geese; it once boasted a tower, which was the prison
of the enthusiast Covenanters. How the howling of the
winds and the dash of the waves would, to their heated
imaginations during the watches of the night, sound
like voices from on high; but really I am writing of
Scotland, instead of the southern extremity of the
island of Great Britain.
There was a party of smart youths, evidently pleasure
tourists, on board the steamer; we at first heard them
en passant prate gravely of Peel, and politics, and trade,
and the anti-corn-law league; their adjournments to
the cabin for refreshments were frequent, and so were
their re-appearances on deck to breathe the fresh air, and
— faugh! At last they stationed themselves about the
stern, and sat there enjojdng their politics, philosophy,
and potations. Mr. N. told me they conversed sen-
tentiously and philosophically in their cups, and were
very severe upon tbe Puseyites. One of them, but not
altogether aloud, sang "The Sea, the Sea, the open Sea;"
and when we returned to Ryde, they had to be assisted
out of the vessel and along the pier. I thought they
might bave joined in part of a song in one of Moliere's
comedies — " Laissons raisonner les sots
Sur le vrai bonheur de la vie ;
Notre phUosophie
Le met parmi les pots."
Such were these tourists; but do not suppose that the
English drink strong drinks more than the Americans :
M

250 LETTERS FROM
to be sure I have smaU means of judging, but I fancy
one people drinks nor more nor less than the other,
and both too much. The tax upon wines and spirits in
England is iramense in araount; but one is lost in
figures when tbe revenues or resources of Great Britain
are spoken of. There were some other gentlemen on
board, with whora Mr. N  entered into conversation,
one and all agreed in condemning the system of pier
fees, at Dover, Southampton, Ryde, etc.; they are a
ceaseless vexation; the charges are so ill, and the ex
tortion so well reg-ulated. The demand for pence, and
the change for sixpences, spoU a lady's bag with heavy
unpapered copper, and her enjoyment with the paltry
and often impudent annoyance. These pier-due col
lectors, with the whole craving tribe of English porters,
waiters and so on, following, are hke field-flies in hot
weather; they inflict no great injury, but are noisome
and unclean, and one is continually pestered with
baring to get rid of them.
Smuggling, which used to flourish in the Isle of
W^igbt, from what I hear is little practised now in
England, except among wealthy wholesale dealers in
French goods, who— it is every now and then made public
— have contrived to defraud the Customs, but seem to
lose no character in consequence; the matter is often
compromised quietly, and the smuggler merely con
sidered, what displeased Mr. Dickens so much with us,
" smart." But if a poor man or woman smuggles a
few pounds of tobacco, or in a small stUl raanufactures

AN AMERICAN LADY. 251
a few gallons of illicit gin, the law puts on all its
terrors, and hea'iry is the punishment — fine — imprison
ment, ruin; the rich smuggler counts his gkins the
whUe. The law is not called a glorious uncertainty for
nothing; the penalties on smuggling present a curious
shding scale, the heaviest penalty falling on the lightest
offender. Just and generous England!
We were a few hours sailing round the island, and
in the evening purchased a promenade on tbe pier, and
walked in the neighbourhood of Ryde. On the follow
ing morning we crossed over to Portsmouth; a narrow
water, as the map will shew you, separating it from the
Isle of Wight. A large seaport cannot but interest,
and Portsmouth is fortified too; strong bastions are
erected to protect it seaward, and they bristle with can
non. I wish we had been at Portsmouth on one of the
days when the Royal George was charged with so much
gunpowder, and its explosion at the bottora of tbe sea
shewed perfect engineering skill. Both at Ryde and
Portsmouth, indeed in London too, were chess-boards
and men, and other ornamental or useful articles, made
out of the timber blown from the sunken ship. I
thought of Addison's Will Wimble, and how pleased he
had been to have made tobacco-stoppers out of pieces
of the wreck — a step certainly from the sublime to the
tririal; from being familiar with the smoke and fire of
death-deahng cannon to the fire and smoke of an idle
pipe r There's a fine moral for you!
We engaged a boat and two men to row us ix)und

252 LETTERS FROM
the harbour, full of ships of war — their trim cordage
shewing so symmetrically. We went on board tbe
Victory — Nelson's death-ship; on the quarter-deck is
a small plate, " Here Nelson fell;" and we were shewn
the place where the hero ("when shall such hero live
again?") breathed his last, and were conducted over
all parts of the vessel. It is said of Wolfe, that he—
"Where'er he fought.
Put so much of his heart into his act.
That his example had a magnet's force.''
And tbe same I am sure may be said of Nelson. The
Victory is now used for a naval school of some kind.
We went on board two other men of war, and drank
good water from tanks, where it had been fifteen
months; and saw the gunners' rooms, with the deadly
implements of war ornamentally arranged ; cutlasses '
and pistols in glittering stars, and crowns, and V. R.'s.
War without such adventitious appliances would appear
too horrible to be contemplated; the grim-visaged
monster must smooth his wrinkled front to be first
tolerated, and then extolled.
Portsmouth harbour is simply a bay, running up
between the island, Portsea, where stands Portsmouth,
and the opposite continent, if I may call it continent:
it is commanded by forts and guns, and we heard
wonders of tbe dockyards adjoining it, with their steam
machinery, and anchor-founding, and rope-twisting
(yarn-twisting too, I suppose). This was but one of
tbe naval stations of England. What a force must they
all present !

AN AMERICAN LADY. Z,),3
It appears that the right of impressment still exists;
and in case of war, and a want of seamen, would no
doubt be acted upon; of course so bard, so unjust and
tyrannical a law, affecting directiy Englishraen them
selves—enslaving them, if it be but for a term, is never
alluded to in Exeter HaU. " Be to their faults a littie
blind," says the rhyme; and the English are stone
blind to the faults in the manners, laws, and ignorances
that are within them and around thera, at least tbey
very rarely offer to amend them.
You see more naval uniforms in the streets of Ports
mouth, else they do not differ from other towns. Now
as to my business in Portsmouth —
******
All this being satisfactorily arranged, and time not
pressing, we determined to saU to Jersey, nothing less;
and so we saUed, and passed the Needles, and Hurst
Castle, in Dorsetshire, another of King Charles's
prisons; and the Caskets, which are dangerous rocks;
and the islands of Sark and Alderney — Alderney is
famous for its cows, but Sark is famous for nothing that
I heard of; and Guernsey, a smaller Jersey; and in
due time we steam along the bold and rocky coast of
Jersey. The sea was smooth enough the whole way.
Jersey is an interesting island. St, Heliers, where
we landed, is the principal town. The Channel Islands
have been attached to the English crown, I suppose,
since the Conquest, sharing not in the French annexation
of Normandy, though they still preserve their Norman

254 LETTERS FROM
laws and language. They are untaxed, and crowds of
envious Englishmen hasten to Guernsey and Jersey to
drink brandy and wine, merely because they only cost
so much, I mean so little. And the natives, I speak
of Jersey, preserve their patois, and the peasant women
then- characteristic attire, and it is such a change from
London. But now, so great is the metropolitan irrup
tion, since railways and steam -vessels have made tbe
island easily accessible, that its distinguishing pecu
liarities in dialect and manner may not long exist.
The Rhine is now pronounced a pleasant river for
cockney airings, and one hears of the English quarters
in several European cities. Moore's prophecy seems
near fulfilment, that we sball soon have
"Some Mrs. Hopkins taking tea
And toast upon the wall of China."
How then can Jersey hope to escape, and retain its
primitiveness? No; it must be another of London's
suburbs. The Channel Islanders must not have un-
dutied spirits, wines, and tobaeco, to themselves. For
bid it "Whitechapel and Wapping ! I had no difficulty
in making tbe natives understand my French, espedally
if I wished to purchase anything; understanding them
was another matter. When you can throw your gaze
extendedly over the island, it looks one orchard, but
its cider is very bad.
Although only eighteen mUes from their coast, the
French were never able to make themselves masters of
the Isle of Jersey; the few attempts they made were

AX AMERICAN LADY, 200
always repulsed, and when Major Pearson — but for all
this see the History of England, To be sm-e the pos
session of so small an island is worth littie to any
countr}', but that is a circumstance slightly regarded in
warfare; to injure is the aim; and if a bitter enemy
cannot decapitate a foe, he will strive to sever a joint
from his little finger rather than leave him unscathed.
If Great Britain could not be invaded, Jersey eould.
There was a good deal of shipping in the port, and
St. Heliers is a large handsome town, but I should not
hke to reside in such a miniature of an island; I should
feel so "cabined, cribbed, confined," and should often
murmur a la Sterne's starling.
Jersey is very strongly fortified, and I was told at an
astonishingly great outlay, that is, for any country but
England. Fruit is cheap and plentiful in the isle; the
mildness of its comparatively southern chme permitting
grapes and figs to ripen in the open air, but not weU
I was told. I was informed also that a capitalist
was attempting the manufacture of wines there, and
with some probability of success. Cheap French re
prints of modern English works are common, but the
copyright law very properly forbids their introduction
into England, even as private individual property.
It was rough weather as we returned, and I remained
below all the rocking, that is, water-rocking voyage.
Those Channel steamers, as well as those which sail to
France, Belgium, etc., are much inferior to ours; in
deed, any transatlantic traveUer must admit ours are

256 LETTERS FROM
palaces in comparison; here are no spacious saloons,
nor, indeed, spaciousness of any kind. I suppose one
reason is that the American steamers are built for river
and not sea navigation. I wish there were not so
many accidents in the West, that those Mississippi
navigators were less reckless; but they have such a
wild headlong love of danger, such as the poet rather
praises, for if there be
" No lure, except the danger known,
The danger's self is lure alone."
I might with great ease, though no great wit, tell
after the raanner of Boz, of "surgical plasters spread
on inaccessible shelves" in this Jersey boat, and so
forth. Boz was singularly unlucky in steamers. The
berths shelved to the water ever and anon as the vessel
dipped, for the English Channel is a vile chopping sea,
and though the waves have not the prolonged roU of
those in the broad Atlantic, they are quite as disagree
able and sickening. We landed at Southampton, and
thence railwayed to London. Ever, etc.

AN AMERICAN LADY. 257

LETTER XXVL

THE DUKE — LABLACHE — -EXTREMES MEET  ST. JAMES S PARK 
DUKE OF York's column — hy"de park — achilles — fame and
ITS moral — KENSINGTON GARDENS  REGENt's PARK  ' DAGGER
OF lath '  FLUTE-PL.AYING — COLERIDGE — OPIUM-EATING —
MRS. DWYER.

London,  1843.
Yesterday, dearest Julia, was I your grate
ful debtor for letters and compliments. You are no
votary of the "not to admire" school, which I think,
with great deference to the poet, neither makes nor
keeps men happy ; indeed, I suppose the writers who
advocate non-admiring, do it to draw admiration to
their statements. Men, far more than women, in my
opinion, have strong cravings for this food for their
vanity; the merest duUard seeks to be admired w^ere
it only for his dulness, which he considers becoming
gravity. Even Matthias Doow used to be pleased when
caUed "miser;" it indicated the English virtue, wealth,
and when he was told, though in very undignified
prose, " That never yet with shiUing could he part.
But when it left his hand it struck his heart,"
he felt flattered.
m2

258 LETTERS FROM
And I am compelled to stay here a while longer.
Sancho Panza was right in declaring that he was a
great man who first invented sleep ; but " be his tomb
as lead to lead" who first invented the law's delay —
a lady's malison is written. The reason why I must
remain longer is * * *
I have just returned frora walking with Mr. and Mrs,
Blortimer and Emma Wilderton in St. James's Park —
my love of walking renders my "job" more a sinecure
than it raight be — and we savv the Duke on horseback;
men pointed to hira, and looked after him : and at a
little distance we saw some one else who was an object
of remark, and when we had walked forward found it
was Lablache, the famous and wonderfully fine bass
singer. Emma told me her father often hummed when
he saw him,
" And if right I can judge by the size of his calf,
He may weigh about twenty-two stone and a half."
Another gentleman was with him — I was told his son;
and this bulky hero of the Opera divided the regards
of the lieges, at any rate tbeir observances, with the
hero of Waterloo! Extremes meet more frequently in
England than in other countries.
I said in one of my letters that the Enghsh were
little tolerant of foreigners: I should have said the
lower classes were so — the London crowd. But I was
making the original remark that extremes meet, perhaps
in no place more than the parks. Here strolls the
listless epicure to exercise himself gently into appetite;

AN AJlERICiN LADY. 259
and there, sits a man in every mental quality his
superior, and he also is cogitating about dinner, but it
is how to obtain one. " 0 ! he diues pretty regulai'ly
in the parks," is a remark I have heard made, to
intimate the contempt, the disgust the English feel at
hungry, dinnerless poverty ; — whether the poverty be
the child of misfortune or crime does not at all affect
the feehng. If not in rags, the worse.
On fine Sundays, in the season especiaUy, so many
are the carriages of every hue and form in the parks,
that one might conclude coach-buUding was the prin
cipal ti-ade in London. Fortunately for the people,
the parks are royal property, and may not be built
over; besides tbe aristocracy want them; they are all
delightful places; St. James's the most so, I think,
with its ponds and aquatic fowl, and its views of Buck
ingham Palace, which does not look so very palace-like
after all, but then it cost hundreds of thousands, which
is highly satisfactory; and it has peeps of the towers
of Westminster Abbey, and a round, lofty, but not
very lofty pUlar, caUed the Duke of York's Column,
surmounting a sweep of steps, up which you can
emerge from tbe park into Carlton Gardens and Water-
lop Place. A figure of the prince crowns the column ;
it may be ascended in the same way and terms as the
Monument, but it has not yet been used for suicidal
purposes. Really it is frightful to speak of such a
thing with levity, but it is another proof how extremes
meet. I was told that a simple French Canadian, who

260 LETTERS FROM
when he was in the park for the first time, and saw His
Royal Highness's figure in its proud eminence, asked
if that was the statue of St. James, to whom the park
was dedicated!
On the Westminster side of the park are two large
ornamented pieces of ordnance, curious and well en
closed, that the English may not touch and scratch
them; and you can walk to Whitehall through the
Horse Guards, where two equestrian sentinels occupy
separate archways in a most approved and statue-like
manner. Here stood the old Palace of Whitehall.
Marlborough House, the town residence of the Queen
Dowager — originally built by the government for tbe
victor of Blenheim, I can't call him the hero — adjoins
this park, but in the Pall Mall direction (you must read
my letters according to the plan you have), and so does
the Palace of St. James, which in truth looks more like
what it was originally — a lazar-house — than a queen's
dwelling-place, but it is now only used for state pur
poses—drawing-rooms, and so forth. The dingy brick
street-front, with its old clock, occupies the corner of
the angle formed by Pall Mall and St. James's-Street ;
both very fine streets, club-houses costing their many
thousands in each.
You walk up St. James's-street from the Palace, and
at the top is PiccadUly; turn to the left, walk forward,
and you pass JMiss Burdett Coutts's, Lord Ashburton's,
the Duke of Cambridge's, and many other splendid
mansions, the Green Park (an enclosed portion of St.

AN AMERICAN LADY. 261
James's Park) being on the opposite side of the street,
to the left as we advance towards Hyde Park. The
last house in Piccadilly is Apsley House, where dwells
the Duke; the windows at one time were barricaded
that the mob might not break them. Immediately
beyond is the fine entrance into Hyde Park, almost
opposite to which is a colossal statue of Achilles on a
stone pedestal. The figure was cast from cannon cap
tured in the Duke's various victories, and caused to be
erected to his honour by his admiring countrywomen.
Nearly in a direct line with the statue, but on the
opposite side of the road from Piccadilly, is St. George's
Hospital. Were this a military hospital, its site were
most appropriate — here stands the statue, a tribute to
the glory of a great conqueror — and there the hospital,
that glory's moral !
AchiUes certainly looks very wild and truculent, like
a man who could drag a slain foeman at his chariot-
wheels — almost as bad, though many think differently,
as to send a liring one to die an imprisoned exile on a
distant rock. Mr. N. told me that a very matter-of-
fact young Quaker, who came to town from Yorkshire
on some law business (his errand was a pitiable one if
he were personally concerned in the law), was some
time ago with him in Hyde Park. Mr. N. pointed out
this statue of Achilles, cast -from weapons of whose
destructiveness Achilles in his most sanguinary moods
could not so much as dream.
" Dost thou think, friend John," asked the Quaker,
" that this Achilles reaUy existed in the flesh?"

262 LETTERS FROM
"Why, I don't know," rephed Mr. N., "there
may be no legal proof of it; but we have the authority
of a writer of repute, one Homer, that there was an
AehiUes." " Was he confined?"
" Who — Homer? Very much so in his circumstances,
if all tales be true."
" Nay, but I spake of Achilles; and liking not to say
any thing disrespectful of the man's character I so ex
pressed myself. I mean to say was he allowed to be at
large, and accounted sane?"
There's another raorai on fame for you — was he ac
counted sane!
A fine carriage-road, aad footpaths well fenced off,
lead you up the park to the top of Oxford-street. To
the right is Park-Lane, with the Marquis of London
derry's house, and the Marquis of Westminster's pic
ture-gallery seen in the opening, and the large mansion
the very wealthy and eccentric Earl Dudley built, and
numbers of others. I have had no little enjoyment in
the parks with an intelligent cicerone.
" There, look at that graceful lady — her name will be
long remembered."
" That young lady in the carriage and pair — why
who can she be?"
" The sole daughter of the noble bard's house and
heart, Ada, Countess of Lovelace. And that pleasant-
looking (he's not tall, you see) recoramendation-letter-
faced gentleraan (one must coin a compound epithet

AN AMERICAN 1,ADY. 263
for such a man) is Thomas Moore. And that old gen
tleman, upon whom ladies smile in a way no younger
man can hope for, is Rogers; you will not readily
forget his countenance; his use of wealth is a good
example to the rich, very badly followed. And here
comes one of Peninsular fame — that old gentieman
who has numbered more than four-scoK years and ten
—Lord Lynedoch. And that soldier-like man, with
out an arm, is another hero of the same campaigns
—Sir Henry Hardinge. And, lo, a third, whose air is
as the former, and whose loss of hmb art has wonder
fuUy well concealed, the Marquis of Anglesea."
At the western extremity of Hyde Park are Ken
sington Gardens, which are open to the pubhc — a
dehghtful promenade, and possessing that attraction
so grateful to the dweUer in a great city, fine trees.
Here in the mornings are ladies with their books,
and gentlemen with their eye-glasses and siUinesses.
Tbe Enghsh of aU people have least the gift to see
themselves as others see tbem. The poets and
essayists who have told them plain tniths of the
national character are considered satirists, and tbe
Enghshman continues to believe, and to believe firmly,
that he is liberal, humane, and wise !
I ought to have told you that to whatever pubhc
exhibition you go in London, you must have a guide
book or catalogue. This looks like a tacit admission,
a presumption at any rate, that the Enghsh know
nothing beforehand, and must be informed upon any

264 LETTERS FROM
topic on the spur of the moraent — ignorance is ac
counted the rule, inteUigence the exception. In a
very nice little guide-book, distinguished generaUy by
excellent taste, is mention of Kensington Gardens,
Knightsbridge, etc.
"This," says the author, "is the spot of all others
to see the finest women in tbe world (as English
women are), as well as horses in great numbers and in
the greatest perfection."
English women, as well as horses ! How the Eng
lish man peeps out. Another line amused me, it is so
Ikiglish; — in describing a day's excursion to Greenwich
— " Go over Blackheath," says tbe author, " through
Lee to Eltham; see the ruins of the old palace, now a
barn," etc. etc.
Now a barn! — 0 bravely done, wealthiest monarchy
in tbe world! Eltham, where the third Edward, with
all the pomp, pride, and circumstance of chivalry, feasted
his prisoner-guest — Kiiig John of France — now a
barn! Well, palaces are not in America, so we cannot
degrade thera into base uses, and would not deal so
with any buildings of historical fame.
The Regent's Park is new compared with the others,
laid out indeed in the Regency of George the Fourth.
It is a mile or so north of Oxford-street. It is less parky,
and more plantationly-looking (one must, you know,
have new words for new places) . The houses are the
everlasting, if not long-enduring, stucco, outward shew,
as beseems London. This park is under the control

AN AMERICAN LADY. 265
of the Commissioners of Woods and Forests. I think
a "dagger of lath," as the most appropriate crest,
should head their orders and notices about this pro
perty. The Royal Parks (I suppose I may so term
Hyde and St. James's) are under the control of rangers,
generally some member of the Royal Family; the
annual emoluments are very great, so it is evident the
duties are not onerous.
In the city — I mean London proper — are neither
parks nor promenades; but as the wealthier traders and
theu' families hve a few miles in one direction or other
from the city, the want is only felt by the poor, and
therefore is of no consequence. Some late medical
writer has said that no class of men fare so sumptuously
every day as the London citizens. Do you remember
how old Mr.  at  , used to tell us of Cobbett's
remarks, printed or spoken, upon them. Cobbett's
mantle, and it certainly was pecuhar in its style, seems
to have fallen upon no successor.
Yesterday evening I called upon Mrs. B  , and
gave her the remittance you forwarded to me; she
begged me to express her gratitude to Mr. L. A,; her
daughter is married to a tide-waiter in the Customs,
and her son is clerk to a corn-factor — he seems silly
and sentimental, for he regretted that with his salary
he could not afford himself a piano and the Opera. Sad
privation!— but he plays the flute. How could a man
of genius like Coleridge ask for a second tune on a
flute!—

266 LETTERS FROM
"Again, dear Harmonist! again
Through the hollow of thy flute
Breathe that passion-warbled sti-ain.''
Passion through the hollow of a flute! Sense must
indeed be lost in sound vvhen that is said.
I have heard that opium-eating is becoming more
common in England, and wine-bibbing less so. Of
course I have no means of judging: it is lamentable to
find a man like Lord Clive die at forty-five an opium-
eater and a suicide; it is sad too to find a man hke
Coleridge having recourse to this magic drug, to escape
from the annoyances of the hard dull world of England.
I have heard great names mentioned here as opium-
eaters; but I do not think the habit likely to become
general; it is unsuited, not to the genius, but to the
want of genius in the people; they are too matter-of-
fact and common-place to be fond of the reveries and
imaginings opium inspires; they love their own dear
selves too much to leave the sober contemplation of
their many excellences for the fanciful world of opium
— a few may indulge in it, but the many will not; that
is. Miss Julia, in my sage disinterested judgment.
It is clear, vei-y many of them could not be duller
than they are, were they dosed with laudanum most
periodically. The Hon. Mrs.  ^has just left town; before hei
departure she presented me, as a souvenir, with a
curious Indian fan, and — of all things to one about to
cross the Atlantic — Falconer's Shipwreck, with auto-

AX AMERICAN LADY. 267
graph remarks of her own! Boz, in what some of the
critics are rude enough to call liis caricatm'e vein, talks
of " going up St. Paul's in an omnibus;" the feat were
as practicable as to induce Mrs,  to walk in the
path of good-humour and contentment.
And widow Honor Dwyer, the Irish apple-woman,
has brought me a present (you wiU laugh) of a young,
but well-grown— -cat — of some choice stock too. What
could I do ? It would have pained the poor woman to
have refused or appeared to disparage her gift; doubtless
like the tear Gray gave to misery, it was aU she had to
give; and I do beheve Mrs. Dwyer had heard something
of Whittington and his cat, and hearing I was going to
far foreign parts, thought in her simplicity a cat might
be a valuable possession,
"And shure, my lady, then it's the pussheen that I
hope will be a credit to your fireside, long life to it,
and remind you of the station-house, and'how we gave
him a taste of our minds (!) And it's myself that
often wishes to tell him what he is, the thief o' the
world, hut's afeared of the thrubble, God help me; and
the rheumatiz that would be sartain shure if I couldn't
be in the fresh air the day and see after my own turns,
and that's the thruths of it, my lady."
A shawl I gave her would see her through all
the Sundays and hohdays she had to live, she said,
"gintalely!" But a cat, to remind me of a London
station-house, and how we, being moved, did speak!
It does remind me (for it closely resembles it) of that

268 LETTERS FROM
cat, a Cupid is cutting her claws, in the Taming of tbe
Shrew, in that illustrated edition of the mighty master.
The artist has so fine an imagination that he is worthy
to illustrate Shakspeare.
Adieu — I must now leave you, to dress for an evening
party. Blessings on the inventors of pens, inks, papers,
and posts! But what a desultory scrawl I send you.
Ever, etc.

AN AMERICAN LADY. 269

LETTER XXVII.
packing — COVENT-GARDEN MARKET  THE UNNATURAL PREFERRED
— A FOG  FOUNDLING HOSPITAL  AMERICAN VAUNTINGNESS 
ENGLISH SELF-LAUDATION — CHURCHES  CATHEDRAL SERVICE 
GREAT WANT OF CHURCHES — " IMPOSSIBLE."

My DEAREST Julia, London,  1843.
My delay in returning to America has relieved
me by the adjournment of — packing — oh! the horrors
of packing. It is so hateful that when any one of the
many here, who resembles Dogberry in his general
intelhgence, and in his being " a rich fellow enough,"
turns a poor servant or relative out of doors ; the vulgar
formula is — "Come, pack up your traps and be off;"
the packing, you see, is flung in by way of aggravation ;
the indignity and suffering were incomplete without it
— it is an additional smart to the blister — a tenth thong
to the cat ! My trust in Kathleen's ingenuity is great,
for she is as neat-handed as any Phyllis of them all;
otherwise what will become of all my purchases for
presents and reminiscences; the accumulation almost
frightens me; they will present so formidable an array
when duly parceled out. I shall be most amply lug-
gaged, WeU, I must be patient — "La patience est

270 LETTERS FROM
amere, raais le fruit en est doux," Somehow, people
like not waiting to gather this pleasant fruit,
I enjoy a visit to Covent Garden Market; an inclosed
market, smaller than Fulton; such beautiful displays
of fruit and flowers, winter and summer; for London
wealth "bids December yield the fruits of June;" the
gardener must force fruits and flowers for the rich,
when nature denies them — that nature does withhold
thera, is the reason why they must be supplied. What
matters it that strawberries, peas, or potatoes, have a
better flavour in summer than in winter? — they have
been ripened naturally, by the free and common sun
shine, rains and dews; they are cheap, any one with
but vulgar pence may procure them Faugh! they
smack of poverty.
The price of pineapples, grapes, peaches, indeed all
fruits, when least seasonable, is enormous in American
estimation. I do not mention this as blame; on the
contrary, employment is thus given to ingenious indus
try; the gardener's innocent and most ancient calling
is encouraged. I mention it to shew you the wealth
and tastes of the English. Even the wives of the
inferior shopkeepers will scoff at lamb or salmon, when
"its so cheap any one can bave it." Aristocratic race!
Pity that such things as intellect, health, and sunshine,
cannot be forced for your behoof. There would be a
very considerable demand for the first — at any rate
there ought to be in the high quarters of— but I will
not name names.

AN AMERICAN LADY. 271
I remember having been in Covent Garden market
one day during the winter, and had afterwards to call
at a shop in Cornhill; it was rather foggy when we
started, but I have confidence in the skUl and steadi
ness of my coachman. WTien Temple Bar was reached
on my return, the fog had gained its culminating point
of denseness. You cannot conceive what it is; it may
be cut with a knife the Enghsh say — ^it is lUce molasses
in vapour, the consistency being fully preserved. One's
eyes ache in vain attempts to penetrate the gloom.
The foot-passengers go warily along, guiding themselves
by the dimly-descried gas-hghts in the shop-windows.
All hope of day seems forbidden. The city reminds
one of the Valley of the Shadow of Death. These fogs
are healthy, some say — probably one of those assur
ances invented to make people tolerant of what is
unavoidable. I felt rather alarmed as I thus sat in
the carnage, be-misted; there was a long delay. I had
put the side-windows down, fearing they might be
broken; dire was tbe vehicular confusion and the blas
phemous recrimination. The English armies, it was
said, "swore terribly in Flanders" — they were out-
sworn that day at Temple Bar.
In the wintry months, when the air is often rarified,
the vapours fall and mix themselves intimately with
the congenial dulness of tbe people of London. The
fogs are more or less dense; sometimes the darkness is
literaUy a darkness visible, one can see it as it were,
can distinguish it from the houses and objects in the
streets.

272 LETTERS FROM
Child-murder (it does not sound so horrible a thing
when called infanticide) has become more frequent,
the New Poor Law opponents say, in England, and is
not very hearily punished. This remark came into my
head, and therefore into my letter (the pen being
moved by the brain as well as the hand) from remem
bering (now will I raise your curiosity) where I was
on Sunday. I went with Mr. and Mrs. Guy in their
very new carriage, which its owner says "takes tbe
shine out of aU Long Acre;" it certainly glitters as
if all the varnish in that coach-building region had
been exhausted on its panels; between ourselves it is
far yellower than Mr. Guy himself— but I will not
keep you longer in suspense. We went to the chapel
of the Foundling Hospital— the name shews the nature
of the charity. The hospital is a large building, with
extensive grounds about it. The institution possesses
estates of its own; it is indeed very wealthy, for much
of the ground belonging to the Corporation of the
Foundling Hospital, formerly unproductive, is now
covered with fine streets; indeed, its revenue is counted
by thousands — but whence the foundlings ? To expose
their children is not an English vice; on the contrary,
the poor will starve and struggle on — themselves ill
clad and worse dieted — to afford scant food and cloth
ing as scant to their helpless families. If one reads in
the papers of some unhappy infant having been found
exposed in the street, an investigation takes place
before a magistrate, and the child in all probabihty is
sent to the workhouse.

AN AMERICAN LADY. Z/O
I could not very well persevere in my questions on
this subject; but if destitute chUdren are taken from
the workhouses or other charitable institutions, and
placed in this hospital, why is not so creditable a fact
made known — why call it the Foundling Hospital?
Tbe English generaUy love " to hear their nothings
monstered; " but they seem to think it no honour that
it should be known London does not ivant a Foundling
Hospital. I cannot understand the matter, I could
have derived any information from ]\lrs,  about
foreign charities, but in home charities she only takes
interest when they are under distinguished patronage.
Tbe charity that vaunteth not itself is very old-fash
ioned among very many charitables here.
But the Chapel. As we were proceeding to it we
were stopped by gentlemen with plates in their hands,
demanding the price of admission— a silver coin. Hav
ing purchased the right to worship, we entered the
chapel; it is very handsomely embellished, the ser
rice is of course that of the Established Church. It
is rendered attractive by the engagement of popular
preachers and professional singers. There was nothing
of the simplicity that characterises American worship;
tbe display of accomplishment in song was far too
obtrusive. I almost thought the congregation (ought
I rather to say the audience?) would have hummed
applause, during the vocal and instrumental perform
ance, it looked so like a Theatre-Chapel. Pope's com
parison of those " tuneful fools " who love

274 LETTERS FROM
" to please their ear.
Not mend their minds,''
is shewn to be just in places like these;
" as some to church repair.
Not for the doctrine, but the music there."
The remarks we overheard in coming out shewed this.
" Miss Birch was in capital voice to-day; " " Pyne
was excellent." The preacher dwelt calmly and elo
quently upon his sacred theme, but we heard no ob
servations upon that — and certainly during the sermon
there was nothing felt of the Theatre-Chapel. Tbe
foundlings — I suppose I must call them so by courtesy,
if nothing else — occupy their own galleries, and join in
the responses. When of proper age they are appren
ticed out, or placed in service.
In tbe hospital are paintings by Hogarth, West,
and others. Mr. Guy said as we came away he would
like to have bad some talk with the officers about
Mr. Thomas Jones. I paid little attention to this, but
soon found the remark was an example of his literary
knowledge; he had heard of the History of Tom Jones,
a Foundling, and it was about him he would inquire !
The equivoque might have been curious if any inter
view with an hospital gentleman had taken place. Mr.
Guy affects intelligence in all things, and is a tolerable
specimen of the ignorant American braggadocio.
I think the boastfulness imputed to Americans gene
rally is a trick of manner more than anything else.
They so love their country, that to speak exultingly

.A^, AMERICAN LADY. 275
of the rapid progress of their great republic, is com
mon as the daylight. They are so'proud of what they
have done, or could do, that they must needs talk of
and amplify the matters. Their boastfulness is not
so much an individual feeling or quality; it is more
of their country and their fellows, — but something too
much of it unquestionably exists.
Englishmen, on the other hand, think very rauch of
themselves individually, and very Uttle of their feUows
generally. They cannot boast aloud of their perfec
tions, as they would find no listeners, so they sulkily
muse their own praise. Did they generally proclaim
by speech, rather than by actions, manner, and sullen
ness, their opinions of themselves, what a ceaseless
sound of self-laudation would be in the land ! Corio-
lanus would be far outdone in his "Alone, I did it!"
So would Louis Qaatorze in his " L'etdt? C'est moi."
Wisdom, the Englishman would say, intelligence, soul
—C'est moi! Sir Godfrey Kneller believed (profane
coxcomb) that if he had been consulted at the creation,
the world had been the better for it — the feeling is
thoroughly English, if Kneller was not.
In the same way as at the Foundling — by payment
of tees— public worship is accorded you at the Mag
dalen and Philanthropic Hospitals; in others too, no
doubt. The English say the payment of these weekly
sixpences is merely another way of paying pew-rent.
But the circumstance which chiefly renders those places
attractive is that the intrusion of poverty is not per-

276 LETTERS FROM
mitted; the English hear plenty about those tiresome
poor on the week days, and when serene in their
Sunday finery think it too bad to be troubled with
the sight of the wretches. The charges for admission
render these chapels select, and the visitors feel it is
so, and are pleased to feel it as they sit to hear the
preacher tell of mankind's sinfulness, and how equal
all are in tbe eyes of Him who cannot err. — Is this
a proper Christian worship ? The argument that the
admission fees go to benefit the charity might tell for
something in a poor country; it is another stain upon
the English character, if in any meritorious institution
such fees are needed.
Fees are expected in many of the churches by the
]iew-openers, to give a stranger a seat, if any popular
preacher occupies the pulpit; if a fee be offered under
similar circumstances to an American, he feels insulted
— if it be not given to an Englishmen be feels aggrieved,
perhaps defrauded ! Not long ago, I heard the Rev.
Robert Montgomery preach (they call him, very shame
fully, Satan Montgomery, from the name of his poem).
I wish I had not gone — there could be no doubt of
Mr. Montgomery's earnestness and zeal; but really —
such a rhapsody! One or two remarks I remember.
"What raan says, God stereotypes." "What is Sunday
railway -travelling, but atmospherical blasphemy?"
But indeed I have no pleasure in telling more. "Where
among the old English divines are there instances of
this inflated style of preaching — this eloquence on stUts?

AN AMERICAN LADY. .-//
The Cathedral service is performed only in St. Paul's
and Westminster Abbey. I think the musical per
formances in the Foundling Hospital may not be com
mendable; but very different is the effect of music and
chanting in lofty and venerable cathedrals; tbe sacred
melody rolls through the aisles, and seems to rise
heaven-ward, as if it bore on its wings of sound the
aspirations of the devout — it is not so in the small
chapels; if the harmony there be so ecstatic as to take
the prisoned soul, it assuredly laps it in the remembered
Elysium of the Sacred Concerts or tbe last Musical
Festival. I envy England her Cathedrals.
Churches are frequent in the city — sometimes two
in tbe same street : these are old establishments, erected
when the Metropolitans were rauch poorer and founded
more churches; but there are complaints that many
new churches are wanted in the populous districts of
Bethnal Green and elsewhere. And if it be so, why
do not the wealthy at once build and endow them?
Every complaint of want of churches, is a deep, an
indelible disgrace to England. Tbe rich people count
their riches by hundreds of thousands, and churches are
begged for — begged for of the many, the poor — begged
by due notice on placards, duly pasted " rubric on the
walls!" The poor Irish can buUd tbeir chapels and
support their ministers. Scotland, in its poverty, did
not complain that churches were too few. A young
country like America affords means of religious worship
to aU ; whilst England — the stain is indelible !

278 LETTERS FROM
When I have said, "but if these churches are re
quired, why are they not built without delay?" The
answer is of course: "0! it's very easy to ask, but
to build thera so readily is impossible." Their way of
excusing all deficiencies — Ijipossible !
Ever, etc.

AN AMERICAN LADY. 279

LETTER XXVIII.

AUSOS S HISTORY Of EUROPE — ¦ STRANGE MIS-STATEMENT —
DUELLERS  FURTHER MIS-STATEMENT  MISS MARTINEAU —
HISTORY WRITING MADE EASY  PRONUNCIATION — NEWSPAPERS.

Dearest Julia, London,  1843.
I meant to have written to you yesterday,
but somehow I was not i' the vein. I was idle, and so
I read the last volume of Alison's History of Europe.
I had read the greater part of the work before, and
remember talking about it with Dr. C  ; he pro
nounced Mr. Alison a tory of the oldest school, beyond
modern conservatism, and thought his deductions and
reasonmgs were like Touchstone's Ul-roasted egg, " all
on one side." Not that Mr. Alison intended this, quite
the contrary; but his writings seem a means to an end
— most openly and honestly the while — and the end
the discouragement of democracy, I read his American
chapter with unmitigated surprise — his prepossessions
may be father to the assertion that democracy is
dangerous, but he should support it with facts fairly
stated. He makes this startling announcement: "Mur
ders and assassinations in open day. are not unfrequent

280 letters from
among the members of Congress themselves, and the
guilty parties, if strong in the majority, openly walk
about and set all attempts to prosecute them at de
fiance." — "So common bave these acts of savage violence
grown in America."
Here is no tarrying to give particulars, nor to cite
authority, " Mark you.
His absolute are ? "
That little verb shews that the historian advances it,
as an essential aud permanent characteristic of the
American Congress to "murder and assassinate!"
Perhaps the Senate is expressly excepted? No. Both
houses, with their Adamses and Websters, tbeir Clays
and Calhouns, are included — are alike to be presumed
guilty of these summary "acts of savage violence!"
Perhaps there is a note to qualify or narrow the posi
tiveness and breadth of the charge? Not so. Then
of course the author is correct; he could not — he would
not — he dared not bring so serious a charge against the
legislative assembly of a great country, unless it were
true " au pied de la lettre." Surely one would suppose
not; yet I will venture to say that so far from its being
true that such murders and assassinations are not
unfrequent, not a solitary instance from the foundation
of tbe government to tbe present time can be cited in
proof of the assertion !
Mr. Alison may be better informed on this subject
than we are in the United States, for I am quite unable

AN AMERICAN LADY. 281
to discover that there has been the shadow of a justi
fication for the stain which the historian has thus
attempted to fix upon the character of the American
Congress, unless indeed an almost isolated case of a
duel is to be taken as his evidence — and duelling, how
ever deeply to be reprobated, is not without precedent
(the English plea to justify anything) among the states
men of older communities. Witness Pitt and Tierney,
Burdett and Paul, Canning and Castlereagh, to say
nothing of the half-public duels among Irish members.
Why did not Mr. Ahson say, when narrating the history
of these periods, that no man who became a Member
of Parliament, or aspired to be one, could hold his life
safe at a day's purchase, and must of necessity be skil
ful in pistols? In later days we have known a duel
between the Duke himself and the anti-catholic advo
cate. Lord Winchelsea— to say nothing of Sir Robert
Peel, and a host of challengers.
Mr. Ahson asks, "Is life secure in tbe United
States?" and he answers "No: experience, terrible
experience, proves the reverse."
Why, what stuff is this? I may reciprocate the
question. "Is life secure in the British dominions?
No : experience, terrible experience, proves the reverse."
Landlords have been shot in Ireland in broad day;
the Hero of Waterloo, as well as of many a well-fought
field beside, was himself, to quote Mr. Alison, "reviled
by a majority of his countrymen, execrated by the mob,
narrowly escaping death from their infuriated hands : "
N 2

282 letters from
there were savage riots in Birmingham; Bristol was
burned, — these and other enormities give terrible
demonstration that life is insecure.
If we adopt Mr. Alison's inference, that in America
" these acts of savage violence " shew the weakness and
intolerable evils of democracy, what do those murders
and riots shew in Great Britain, with all its venerable
and powerful aristocracies ? The fairness of such in
ferences needs no illustration; their admirable logic it
requires no deep reflection to appreciate.
Mr, Alison says in another place —
" The atrocities of the French Revolution, cruel and
heart-rending as they were, have been exceeded (!) on
the other side of the Atlantic; for there the terrible
spectacle has been frequently exhibited of late years,
of persons obnoxious to the majority being pubhcly
burned alive by the people."
Worse and worse! Out of tbe smoke into the
smother! Not only the legislators, but the whole
nation are assimilated to Robespierre, Danton, Marat,
and the rest; while the scale of atrocity is rather in
favour of the Americans. Let the Frenchman have
been never so criminal, some rising American genius
has sinned up to the example — and beyond it !
Persons " obnoxious to the majority," according to
this comfortable historian, are quite as summarily dis
posed of by American republicans as they were by
French revolutionists; they are "obnoxious," and—
burned! This is certainly a serious, a dreadful charge;

AN AMERICAN LADY. 283
is it true ? To say that a person is " obnoxious to the
majority," is to intimate at least that he is so on the
score of opinion; and the impression, the inference
from the wording of J\lr. Alison's paragraph, must
inevitably be, that people have been frequently burned
in the United States for being politically unpopular !
If Mr. Alison did not mean this, he certainly was very
careless m his phraseology. What then are his proofs?
Two paragraphs from Miss Martineau— this the prin
cipal one —
" Just before I reached Mobile, two men were burned
alive there in a slow fire in the open air, in .presence of
the gentlemen of the city generally."
How circumstantial — a slaw fire ! One would really
think this was an authorised auto da fe, I agree with
the lady and Mr. Alison, this was a dreadful occurrence.
But even if strictly true, and if three or four similar
cases could be quoted, would that be sufficient to justify
the historian's deliberate and wholesale condemnation?
And were men thus burned for unpopularity? [Worse
this than the French crime of incivism.] Had the case
anything to do with opinion or government? Any
analogy to the French tragedies of 1789? I happen
to know the facts, and they are these —
Two negroes, not at the city of Mobile, but at a
country town twenty mUes distant, had been tried and
sentenced to be hung. They were obnoxious to the
majority certainly, and why? For the crimes of mur
der, and worse than raurder, with circumstances of

.'284 letters FR03I
pecuhar aggravation, on two lovely chUdren twelve and
fourteen years of age. The detaUs were horrible in the
extreme — tbe littie brother of the poOr girls was
beheaded w ith them, and shared the same bloody grave.
The case itself was so rare in that region, and the par
ticulars of so shocking a nature, that a great sensation
was produced throughout the State. As the murderers
Avere conducted to the gaUows, the mob (composed not
of the gentlemen of Mobile, as Miss Martineau avers,
but of the lowest classes of tbe neighbourhood) seized
the convicted culprits, and despite tbe efforts of tbe
sheriff, executed their more dreadful purpose. No one
can offer a word of apology for this breach of law and
humanity — it is worthy of all detestation. But does it
warrant or support the express declaration that " life
is not secure," because " obnoxious " persons are " fre
quently burned alive!" Is not such a misrepresentation
culpable and inexcusable in such a work as the History
of Europe?Mr. Ahson has added another name to the distin
guished historians to whom Scotland has given birth.
What would he now think of a French historian,
who, writing in 1736, thus spoke of the Porteous
execution ?
" In tbe kingdom of Scotland the terrible spectacle
has been frequently exhibited of late years of persons
obnoxious to the majority being publicly hanged from
dyers' poles by the people,"
iMiss Martineau remained some time at IMobUe, and

AN AMERICAN LADY. 285
must have known the material part of this case, but she
disingenuously conceals it; and a philosophic historian,
intrenched in his own views of democracy, hesitates not
to quote such paragraphs as sufficient authority for a
long series of dogmatic dissertations on the evils of
republican institutions! " O shame ! where is thv blush?"
« ...
I am tempted to think that iMiss Martineau, during
her tour in the United States, was not unfrequently
mystified, a la Sam Slick — a practice in which many
Americans are clever. Could not any one (you, dear
Julia, with all your timidity, if you choose to try) do
into history such premises and conclusions as these —
History made Easy, thus — or to speak after the fashion
ofthe day, "History for the Million," thus: —
"The evils and insecurity of monarchy are palpably
evident, and the disloyalty and disaffection of the people
of England cannot be doubted. Witness the frequently
recurring attempts on the life of tbe Queen; further
comment is needless." Or thus : —
"The appaUing progress of crime and violence in this
kingdom is but too apparent. We need scarcely allude
to the names of Greenacre, Courvoisier, and Good, to
shew that no one can rest secure from midnight mur
der and disgusting mutilation. "
Are the English disloyal? No.
Are they a nation of murderers; is life so unsafe
there, that every individual, ere he or she retires to
repose, must —

286 LETTERS FROM
"See that the polish'd arms be primed with care.
And drop the night-bolt; rufiians are abroad?"
Is this SO? Any American child would lisp — no; yet
these inferences and conclusions are just as natural and
right as those of Mr. Alison.
It requires no ghost to tell us that outrages have
occurred in America, and will again, particularly iu
those outskirts of civilisation in the far west and south,
where so many of the refuse of Europe, and of England
especially, are congregated. These remote settlers be
come wild and rude as the beasts with whom they con
tend. Frontiers have been ever more or less lawless,
and will be so yet awhile in republican America, and
would be so were the government on the model of any
European state whatever. What then? Is there any
fear for America? You are a great admirer of Words
worth, let Idm reply, and bid the trembler
" Dive through the stormy surface of the flood.
To the great current flowing underneath;
Think on the countless springs of silent good ;
So shall the truth be known and understood.
And thy grieved spirit brightea, strong in faith!"
0 spirit of poesy, thou art indeed divine !
I know, though Mr. Alison in his extreme simplicity
may not, that such reckless and cruel mis-statements
work much evU; they tend to destroy all healthful
reverence and affection among Americans for their
fatherland, kindling instead irritation and dislike. The
historian in question could have no motive for pro
moting these ill-feelings, the greater shame then to his

AN AMERICAN LADY. 287
culpable carelessness. Would his valuable work ha\ c
been less valuable if he had occasionaUy, while polish
ing his periods and marshaling his seven-leagued
words, called to mind an antiquated saying touching
clearness of vision for the mote in a brother's eye, or
had he not forgotten that there is such a commandraent
as the ninth, and from the Most High ?
ReaUy, I have written twice as much about this gen
tleman as I intended, and yet have rauch to say. Well,
n'importe; happily America, confident in her resources,
can afford to be evU-spoken of, and is pretty well inured
to it into the bargain.
From an historical writer of the language — though,
I beheve, the English do not consider him very correct,
I mean in his style, as many Scotticisms may be de
tected, and we know he is not cmrect in his state
ments — but, I was going to observe, from the inditing
to the pronouncing of the English tongue is a natural
transition. The Americans contend that English is
spoken in the United States with greater purity than
in the fatherland, and the fatherland laughs at this as
"a Yankee brag;" among the lower orders in the two
countries, I think it is so undoubtedly — that America
speaks best; for in several of the British provinces the
dialects are so uncouth as to be often unintelligible.
A peasant boy from Yorkshire and an unschooled lad
reared in the London St. Giles would not understand
each other; they raust comraunicate in a great measure
by signs, which, if they quarreled, would be intelligible

288 ' LETTERS FROM
enough. Among the educated classes the difference in
phraseology or emphasis is not so great as I expected
to have found it. The Americans intonate more deli
berately, and pronounce more in accordance with the
etymology of tbe words: the English would say that
we were too pedantic, — we, that the English were too
slovenly in speech; and they do clip their words very
short, bite some of them in two as it were. ^Vhat a
writer in the Enclyclopedie says of his native tongue
may be applied to the language of Great Britain more
fitly than to that of the United States, "On prononce
une langue, on dcrit une autre." This slovenliness is
most unpleasant I think iu the utterance of proper
names: here. Saint John is Sin-jin (recollect, I write
of the refined in speech). How do Pope's invocations
to Bolingbroke sound with this pronunciation?
" Smjin, whose love indulged my labours past,"
or
" Awake, my Sinjin — "
The present noble family of the name call themselves,
I am assured, and are called by. their friends, Sinjin.
Then Saint Leger is Sellenger — Warwick, Warick —
Cheltenham, Cheltn'm — Holborn, Hoben — Gray's-inn-
lane, Graz'n-lane —Marylebone, Mariben — Campbell,
Camel — Cholmondeley, Chumly, — and in a great many
more instances which I cannot call to mind at the
moment. Some hapless letters yoa perceive make their
appearance in these words for no better purpose than
that of tbe painted and highly-decorated cakes we heard

AN AMERICAN LADY. 289
of at a certain stiff party — to be looked at — for show.
A punster might be tempted to say such letters were
more like our nice Johnny or hoe-cakes — introduced to
be cut.
Our friend C, from Boston, was more than once
asked in England "what language is usually spoken in
the United States ?" and I have often been "complimented
for the SxceUence of my English !
Y'ou have beard of that article in the Foreign Quar
terly Review? Really a letter in its course somewhat
resembles a country - dance, one is so often "back
again." I began with reading, then writing, then
speaking, and now wi'iting again; no doubt, I was
saying, you have heard of the American Newspaper
article. The interest some English gentlemen take in
such matters is not acknowledged with a sufficiency of
gratitude by the thoughtless Yankees. Here is this
critic now can coolly overlook the abuses of the British
press, to expose the lesser fiend of the American ! AVhy
cannot the popular author grapple with those ills his
country has, rather than fly to others at a distance? I
remember a couplet, but cannot; remember where I
saw it — "For foreign pleasures, foreign joys, I roam.
No hope of pleasure or of joy at home.''
Our censor goes beyond this, for he roams not for
foreign pleasures, but foreign grievances, and that
wben he has plenty of the sort at home. This subject
was brought to my recollection from seeing, in what I

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believe to be a respectable paper, "Bell's New "Weekly
Messenger," an assertion, that of the two surviving sons
of George the Third, "one was a villain, the other a
fool!" Honour to the vaunted respectability of the
British Press — bow personality is avoided ! I have no
doubt a person whose vocation it might be could select
similar passages to fill a snug volume. I heard a
Scotch gentleman, who had resided some time in
Washington, and who was angry with the American
press, say that there were "every now and then strong
remarks in the English papers." Very !
I was told by the Hon. Mrs.  , that there were
newspapers in London of extensive circulation and con
siderable influence, of whose very existence a lady must
be ignorant. This seems to involve a paradox, but so
it is. Can the same — can anything so bad be said of
the Press of the United States ? I weary. Adieu.

AN AMERICAN LADY. 291

LETTER XXIX.

A.N" E.>fGLISHMA>' IN LOVE  COLLEGES, — PUSEYISM — LUTHER 
FRENCH PROTESTANTS — CHURCH LIVINGS — PREACHERS— ROBERT
OWEN,

My DEAREST Julia, London,  1843.
I am so glad that our cousin Frederick has
distinguished himself at Yale College — a worthy son
of a worthy sire. Going to marry, too? Well, he is
younger than English gentlemen generaUy are when
tbey marry; but that raatters not. No one can say
Frederick worships a mercenary Hymen; he is too good
and well-principled for that.
" Gold ghtters most where virtue shines no more,
As stars from absent suns have leave to shine,"
That scandal-monger, man, accuses English ladies of
being inveterate husband-hunters; but the same is
commonly said of the ladies of other countries, though
the unique gallantry of the French forms an honour
able exception. But no one, even the most proficient
in the scandal school, could say so of you. In my
opinion, any young lady here, no matter bow plain,

292 LETTERS FROM
may readUy win an English husband if she can and
will, adroitly and continuously, flatter his self-love.
He cannot resist such evidence of sound judgment,
acute observation, and power of discourse; he lends
his pleased ear, and then offers his most precious self.
I can hardly conceive a true wealthy Englishman in
love — that is, honestly, disinterestedly, and passion
ately. An Englishman in love! Was a monumental
statue ever in a fever?
I suppose the young lady who is to be our cousin-
in-law is the lovely girl with whora we took that long
walk by the sea-side (you remember), wben " day's
amiable sister," as Young calls the moon, diffused her
tranquil and holy light.
^Vcre you not amused with the way in which Mr.
Dickens describes American universities — not what
they are, but what they are not, and by inference what
others are. "In their whole course of study and in
struction," says be, " they recognise a world, and a
broad one too, lying beyond the coUege walls."
We need not go far to fix upon colleges which re
cognise no world beyond their walls. Aristocracies are
things of sections, and then, as was said of Coriolanus,
they are "vengeance-proud, and hate the common
people," and colleges here are things of aristocracies.
Self again ! If an Englishman cannot be exclusive and
intolerant in bis single self, he will be so in his section
— his clique. The climate of England is not very
favourable for ripening many things, but the manners

AN AMERICAN LADY. 293
and institutions of the realm do ripen selfishness to a
strength and luxuriance unknown in other countries.
I am told that at Oxford thty know little of what is
doing at Cambridge, and vice veisd. Of course the
older aristocracies of Oxford and Cambridge despise
the modern colleges of the metropolis. King's College
and the London U^niversity. W"hy ingenuous youth
may not be as well instructed on the banks of the
Thames, as on those of the Isis or the Cam, neither
Oxford nor Cambridge has vouchsafed to inform the
world. I understand that Puseyism, as it is called— that is
the discipline and doctrine inculcated by many influ
ential divines at Oxford — has made little progress in
America. It is very difficult to define what Puseyism
is; you may best understand it by being told that it
is a step, and a long one, toward the Church of Rome.
I, as an Episcopalian Protestant, feel araazed at the
proceedings of the clergy here in respect to Puseyism.
Some haU it as a regeneration of the Anglican Church;
others condemn it as a deadly blow to Protestantism.
Some ministers preach in tbeir surplices; some do not.
The Bishop of London (Dr. Blomfield) recoramends
the morning sermon only to be preached in the surplice.
If the learned prelate deemed it incumbent upon him
to recommend such a practice, it must have been from
what he accounted sufficient authority — but why only
recommend, why not enforce it? Enforce it if the
custom be important and the authority sufficient;

294 LETTERS FROM
if such importance and sufficiency be not, why the
recommendation ? I hope that in the Bishop to recom
mend is not to trim.
Then the Puseyites advocate the abolition of the
present system of pews in the bodies of the churches
— and so far would I be a Puseyite; tbey would
unlock and unbarrier them; they would not permit the
slumbering in an upper pew to the English magnates;
they would make public worship in this respect more
catholic and less aristocratic. The English disregard
of the poor is evinced in their churches, for when there
are free sittings they are apart, and ruder than the
purchased seats; there must be no confusion of ranks,
let the poor know their places. Sometimes an opulent
gentleman, conspicuous from his very audible responses
and richly gUdcd Prayer-book, occupies a free seat,
to shew that even he can condescend to worship God
there! This, Mi'. WUderton says, according to Southey
(how lamentable his lot, whUe the rich dulness of the
land preserves to the last what is courteously called its
faculties), this is a sight beloved of one to whom per
haps a lady should not allude; he however
" did grin.
For his favourite sin
Is the pride that apes humihty."
I was told by a clergyman that he wished to introduce
the Puseyite plan of benches into his church, and men
tioned it to some ladies of the congregation; one and
all, though fond of Puseyism generally, demurred.

AN AMERICAN LADY. 295
How could any thing else be expected? A lady of
quality might find herself elbowed by a humble wor
shipper, whose devotion might shame her lukewarm-
ness. Can people touch pitch or poverty and not be
defiled? The Puseyites profess a doctrine very like transub-
stantiation; they observe the Saint days, the vigUs, the
festivals of the church, advocate more frequent fastings,
and confession of sins in private to a priest; prefer
celibacy to marriage in tbe clergy; would have more
prayers, aud fewer preachings in the churches; desire
a more stringent control over the churchwardens and
lay-officers connected with the Establishment; would
introduce alterations into the offertory, and if possible,
hold it weeklj-, — and finally, as most important, would
refer aU things to the authority of The Church.
The Bishop of London, moreover, recommends or
allows candles at the altar, but they must not be
lighted. If every thing raust be yielded to tbe decision
and authority of The Church, is it not an admission,
direct or indirect raatters little, that The Church wUl
not err, and therefore is infallible? Does that tend
to Popery? There may still be a narroicing gulf
between Puseyism and Popery; but if much of the
Roman Church doctrine and discipline is still objected
to by the English Tractarians, verj^ much has been
conceded to tbem ; be the steps of difference from one
creed to the other few or raany, difficult or easy, some
of the Puseyites have taken them.

296 LETTERS FROM
The Rev. Mr. Sibthorpe and others have openly
become members of the Church of Rome. Dr. Pusey
himself bas recently preached a sermon in his church
at Oxford, decidedly in advocacy of some important
Romanist doctrines, though he did not call them by
their Romanist names; in consequence of this the Uni
versity authorities have suspended him from preaching
for two years. The reverend dignitary seems now to
stand halting midway between tbe churches of Rome
and England, holding out the right hand to one and
the left hand to the other, and wholly embracing
neither. On one occasion I heard a leading Tractarian, the
Hon. and Rev. Mr. Perceval, one of the Queen's chap
lains, preach a sermon, in which he declared that one
of the crying sins of the age was that people imagined
they had a right in matters of religion to think for
themselves ! This, he said, was the same sin as wor
shipping the golden calf in the wilderness ! The in
ference to be drawn is obvious; if people may not think
for themselves The Church must think for them, and
her dictature is not to be criticised, but obeyed. Had
this doctrine been acted upon by Henry the Eighth,
the then Established Church, and a non-judging,
non-thinking people, it is clear that the Hon. and
Rev. Mr. Perceval would never have been a Protestant
chaplain ( if I may call him so ) to a Protestant
Queen. I have noticed that when a rainister of the church is

AN AMERICAN LADY. 297
also the son of a peer, and has the privilege of attach
ing "Honourable" to his name, that designation
precedes the one to which he is entitled by right of
bis sacerdotal character — " Hon." has the priority of
"Rev." This may be a matter of little consequence;
but is it not rather an elevation of an earthly vanity ?
Is the accident of birth to be more reverenced than
tbe ministry of Christ? The fashion is the same if
tbe highest offices of the church, even those conferring
baronial rank, have been attained — to wit, the Hon.
and Right Rev. Dr. Percy, Bishop of Carlisle. The
appeUation of the mere man ought not to have prefer
ence of that of the minister.
Authority, church authority, seems all in all with
the Puseyites, who are the Highest High-Church; they
may not expressly inculcate passive obedience in tem
poral matters, but it seems to follow as the night the
day. If obedience raust be unhesitatingly yielded to
the spiritual authority of the true church, on what plea
is it to be at any tirae refused to temporal authority,
lawfuUy constituted ? Or, if resistance to it be some
times lawful (as I suppose they raight admit it was to
James Stuart), who is to judge of the lawfulness? —
The Chitrch? These doctrines legitimately carried
out might make the English exclaim, " What have the
Reformation or the Revolution availed us!" Many
of tbe Puseyites, which is hardly fair, profess great
horror of Popery, and call it unhandsome names, and
idolatrous.

298 LETTERS FROM
When authority is so much talked about, what, vou
may ask, what of Scripture the while, what of reason?
Alas! they are little regarded in England. Dr. Pusey
or ]Mr. Newman seems as absolute as St. Paul. By the
by, I believe it was the Rev. Sydney Smith who called
the Puseyites Neiv Maniacs, from the name of one of
the chief writers in the Tracts for the Times, which
first introduced this protestant Popery, this papistical
Protestantism, to the English. One remarkable circum
stance in this controversy is, that the Bishops seem to
take no decisive part. Do they consider Puseyism
right, — Why not uphold the right? Wrong, — Why
not repress the wrong? If partly right and partly
wrong, why not sever tbe noxious tares from the
healthful corn? Are they non-essential things, these
Tractarian innovations or restorations, — Why is it not
so set down in episcopal print? The Puseyites fully
acknowledge the authority of the Bishops; but how if
the Right Reverend Bench be not of one mind? To
whom then are the members of the Anglican Church
to look for guidance and instruction? What is the
Church? WJio represent it ?
I ought to tell you the Puseyite clergy, all admit, are
exemplary in their lives — their piety would do honour
to any creed; whether their doctrines will work inno
vation upon the Church of England or not, who can
say? Puseyism has at least one symptora that has
heralded great spiritual changes — it professes little at
the outset. Luther began with exclaiming against the
Indulgences of the Church of Rome, and only that.

AX AMERICAN LADY. 299
Martin Luther, by the way, has been shewn by the
learned historian, Mr. Hallam, to have been a Calvinist
(how he would have chafed at the name!) Mr. Hallam
bears out the assertion [Mynheer was fond of raaking —
of the beauty of Luther's hymns — for he says, " The
hymns in use with the Lutheran church, many of which
are his own, possess a simple dignity and devoutness,
never probably excelled in that class of poetry, and
ahke distinguished from the poverty of Sternhold or
Brady, and from the meretricious ornament of late
writers." The English are fond of telling of the diversities of
creeds with us; the same are in Great Britain, nor
more nor less. ]Mrs. Trollope, when she wrote of the
observances of the JMethodists, and other classes in the
United States, seems to have been in blissful ignorance
that they were very similar to their observances in her
own country. You will smUe; but I do assure you
that 31rs. TroUope's not unamusing exaggerations are
beheved by some of the English to represent the veri
table state of religion in America ! The Evangelical or
Low-Church party here also complain of ber exagge
rations of them and their deeds, so that the good old
lady appears impartial in her satire. Our Shakers are
more respectable than the English Southcotians. I
mean "respectable" in the proper, not the modern
Enghsh, sense, though it may be so in that sense
likewise. The Wesleyans of Great Britain (among them also

300 LETTERS FROM
is a schism) are numerous, influential, and wealthy;
they have a noble haU in the city, handsomer than
many of the club-bouses. I forget how many thousand
pounds were expended upon it— here they hold their
public and Conference meetings. Foreign churches
and chapels are of course frequent in so enormous a
capital as London, Among the most interesting of the
foreign Christians, are the French Protestants—some
of them very probably descendants of those who fled
from the Massacre of St, Bartholomew; their old Queen-
Ehzabeth church, near tbe Royal Exchange, has been
pulled down, and a nondescript-looking place with
some unintelligible allegories outside it, caUed I believe
the Hall of Commerce, reigns in its stead. This is
English, very. Where there was a House of God there
is a Hall of Commerce — trade has superseded religion.
How happens it that in England one never hears of a
church superseding a lay building?
Of course you have heard of the inequality of the
church livings in England — bow in their emoluments
they are sraall by degrees and unbeautifuUy less, they
taper down from thousands to tens of pounds annually;
to correct this by augmenting the smaller livings is of
course "impossible" — it is hardly worth while to shew
you that this is not only possible, but easy. The Pro
testant dissenters in England support their own mini
sters, build their own chapels, and have to pay tithes
and rates to the Establishment beside — so out of the
depths of their poverty do tbe Irish Roraan Catholics ;

AN AJIERICAN LADY. 301
how then can the thousands of affluent churchmen in
England find it "impossible" to prevent many clergy
men being worse paid than paviours ? " Impossible,"
means seffish niggardliness; this "impossible" is so
glaringly fallacious, that it is hardly worth a scoff'.
The misers, Elwes and Dancer, pronounced it impossible
in their mortal sickness to purchase needful medica
ments. The people here have so often pronounced
things to which they are not inclined "impossible,"
that I fancy they beheve tbem to be so at last ! " Tell
a he," says Burke (1 think it's Burke), " every day for
three weeks, and at the three weeks end you will regard
it as truth." The English supply continual proofs that
Burke spoke truth. One hears of men declaring that
they wUl support the church with heart, head, and
hand; perhaps they keep their words, but it is often
found that all three are empty.
1 have heard the Bishop of London preach, and an
able preacher he is, solemn, eloquent, and impressive,
with the finest intonation; he seldom preaches any but
charity sermons, nor indeed do any of the Bishops, at
least in London. One Puseyite writer speaks of the
sufferings of the Bishops — the nature of the sufferings
is not stated. I have seen their reverend Lordships go
in their dark handsorae carriages, their servants in
sober becoraing hveries, to the House of Peers. I have
read of their being at royal levees and drawing-rooms,
and at dinner parties with peers and princes; but
of their sufferings for the last century and a half in

302 LETTERS FROM
England I never heard until now. It must be that
they have suffered in silence, like the Mexican Emperor
of old.
I have heard Mr. Melville also, at Camberwell, near
London, a preacher of rare eloquence, both imaginative
and profound. Mr. Dale, poet and critic, as well as
preacher, is also an eloquent man, — so is Dr. Croly, at
once divine, critic, biographer, historian, dramatist,
novelist, and poet; he was forcible and bold in his dis
course, when I heard him, but perhaps too vehement in
his zeal. IMr. Mortimer said he was " a Boanerges, a
son of thunder." I almost thought be was the thunder
itself. The fashionable preachers may not have the
tenderness of words Pope attributes to "the soft dean;"
but they are a class I admire not — who can regard a
fop in piety? The Socialists, I am told, are numerous
in London, — and a Minister of State once presented
Robert Owen to the Queen. Her Majesty was then,
or was about to become a bride, and a man who
publicly pronounces marriage not a holy state, was
honoured with a presentation to her! Are they not
an odd people? The number of the irreligious in
England is undoubtedly many, and that of the indif
ferent, very, very many — but then there's a great feeling
for the heathen! Ever, etc.

AN AMERICAN LADY. 303

LETTER XXX.
'wight' v. 'white' horse  ENGLISH JOURNALS — INDEPENDENT
 IRISH REPORTERS QUICK-WITTED — LORD CANTERBURY  META
PHYSICS OP DANCING  MADE CERITO POINTS A MORAL  OPERA
UPROARS  PARTY POLITICS  IRELAND  A PAUPER FUNERAL
— INCOME-TAX — CASES OF PECULIAR HARDSHIP — ELISHA.

Dearest Julia, London,  1843.
I was very much amused with your rural
adventure near Trenton (quite like an incident in one
of Miss Sedgwick's delightful novels), and with all your
bewUderments as you speculated of your whereabouts —
it was fortunate, as you say, that your good horses like
Lord D acre's were " wight
And bare you ably in the flight."
As you were the person who suggested the pleasant
mode of extrication — why did you not quote Mrs.
Butler, in her favourite journal-exclamation — " Clever
little me ! " I was teUing this tiny romance to Emma
WUderton. Mr. Guy was present, and could not con
ceive why the fact of his lordship's horse being white
was dwelt upon, — be might have fled as weU or better

304 LETTERS FROM
upon a black horse, the colour being less noticeable!
Mr. Guy seems to become raore English every day.
I ara not surprised at what you tell rae about JMajor
 and the public press, indeed I think I am fast
outliving the faculty of surprise at any thing. The
notion soniewhat prevalent in Araerica, that a very
great portion of the public press of this country is
under aristocratic influence, not to say restraint, is quite
erroneous; that there is a connexion or a communi
cation between tbe aristocratic leaders of parties and
certain journals may be true enough, but the journalists
are the obliging parties. When ink, either the author's
or printer's, is concerned, the aristocracy of genius or
learning makes itself felt above the mere aristocracy of
rank; the creation of a monarch's will — and a monarch's
will, the poet notwithstanding — has ennobled " sots and
fools, and cowards" — that is, in English estimation;
but this may not be truly said of the present day.
The newspapers are too much things of the public to
be thoroughly aristocratised, — besides, talent (I detest
the word, but remeraber no synonyrae) must be and
is employed on the leading journals, and talent (again
that word) is generally independent. It is almost a
mystery to me how the thing is done; — a debate is
drowsily prolonged until the morning, and must be
the more flat that every member knows with tolerable
exactitude what will be the numbers on a division;
weU, the parliamentary talk is as far as possible un-
drow.sified, and given to the early breakfast-tables of

AN AMERICAN LADY. oU5
London, and a clever summary of it too, for the use of
those who have not leisure or wakefulness sufficient
to read the whole report, and perhaps sorae stringent
remarks upon the speeches.
I am told most of the reporters are Irishmen, who
have been liberally educated, and corae to London to
press their fortunes among the duUer and richer
Enghsh; reporters must be quick and quick-witted,
and therefore Irish gentlemen are better adapted for
the task than English ones.
" Plain calf-skin binding, English wit.
The Irish gild and letter it."
I can excuse tbe high salary paid the Speaker of the
House of Commons (I beUeve nearly forty thousand
dollars), for the unhappy gentleman raust sit out the
debate. Mr. Manners Sutton, now Lord Canterbury,
was Speaker many years, and it is said, owed his ability
of listening to rigid abstemiousness and the best snuff'.
I am inclined to think I can trace Irish handiwork
in many newspaper critiques, more especially those on
the ballets at the Opera House; they are imaginative
enough to be the work of a modern French philosopher,
quite the metaphysics of dancing. It is not enough
that the dance be commended for the flexile grace and
agility displayed, 0 no ! there must be detaUs of its
realism or idealism— of its ethereal qualities— its sen
timent, as it developes tranquil emotion, ecstatic rap
ture, deep-souled passion, or deeply-rooted fear. Why
only this, why (for French words are freely used), as
o 2

306 LETTERS TROM
they tell of the esprit or the physique of some belle
danseuse, do tbey jiot inculcate the delicate morale of
the ballet? W^hy not expressly say, if not in such
excellent verse, "Thanks for that lesson, it will teach
To opera-goers more
Than high philosophy can preach.
And vainly preaoh'd before."
Doubtless Cerito points a moral with the tip of her
slipper, though it may not be generally perceived. I
expect too, soon to hear (as this style of reviewing pro
gresses) of the wit that plays about Terpsichorean
ankles, and the jeu-de-mot that may be detected in each
turn ofthe foot; and when the opera-dancers float in
mid-stage air, and people hope that the earthly ties,
which are to appear severed, are yet of the strongest,
we shall be told of tbe sublimity of the passion ex
pressed !
Dance seems now more prized than song at Her
Majesty's Theatre — the twirling toe raore valued than
the tuneful throat. I am sure no young lady can see
an opera-ballet for tbe first time without being, un
pleasantly startled, and even simple enough to consider
what connoisseurs would call a divine pirouette a
womanly degradation. I am more and more convinced
that the love for the " refined" amusement of the ballet
is founded on a coarse taste, as a hothouse plant rears
its fragile head from putrid leaves.
I dare not tell you Mrs. Guy's remarks on the baUet

AN AMERICAN LADY, 307
dresses and gestures as I one night sat next her in the
box — she found Duchesses and Countesses and ladies
of irreproachable character were in the house looking
quietly on (use lessens marvel), or she would have been
loud in her Presbyterian indignation — but people of
rank were present, and therefore it must be right. The
same night, I remember, a gentleman who holds some
government office wished Perrot would " write a ballet
on Queen Mary's escape from Lochleven Castle, Dumi-
latre would be so exquisite." Poor ]Mai-y Stuart! W'rite
a ballet! What lady was it who coraplained of her
husband's excessive fondness for theatricals, and was
propitiated or to be propitiated by the reading of the
new pantomime some time before it was represented?
Write a ballet! The reading of a pantomime is less
ridiculous now than it was, for there was spoken wit
and humour in Punch's pantorairae last Christmas.
The subjects for opera-ballets are often unearthly;
spirits appear, and the spectators, if they can, are to
beheve them disembodied; even Houris have been sum
moned from those shocking Mahometan paradises to
please the nobility, gentry, and money-having public
of Protestant England. The extravagance of the ballet
makes one almost think operas rational! When fa
vourite performers, vocal or pedal, are not engaged by
the manager, or when their high operatic mightinesses,
from Ulness or pettishness, or caprice, do not appear
after announcement in the advertisements of the day,
the English aristocracy are well pleased, for they can

308 LETTERS FROM
have the excitement of a pleasant, safe, and comfortable
uproar. Once it appears a prince of the blood jumped
along with others from a box on to tbe stage, royally
indignant at some imputed misrule on the part of the
despot manager ! They are certainly tbe oddest people
in Christendora. Mr.  said in his solemn way,
"Assuredly the opera is far superior to the amusements
of ancient Rome in her palmiest days." He could
only mean the gladiator and wild-beast fights — high
praise, — it is !
I do not give you any account of the party politics
advocated by the newspapers I have been writing
about, and for a sufficing reason — I cannot. It is so
difficult to understand the state of parties here, and
what are the points or the substances on which they
differ — Tories, Conservatives, Whigs, Whig-Radicals,
Chartists, Agricultural, Free-Trade, High-Church,
Higher-Church, Low-Church, Lower-Church, Dissent
ing, and I know not what.
I am very reluctant now to give any opinion, be it
ever so general, on politics; for some time ago, when
the distresses of the sister-island were the topic, I ven
tured a reraark that surely Ireland would be benefited
if the government devoted funds to drain the . bogs,
and would employ the peasantry in useful national
works. My opinion was quietly smiled down, as if I
had recommended alchemy, or something very impos
sible. Why it should be held " impossible " I do not
know. Bogs have been drained and peasants employed

AN AMERICAN LADY. 309
before now, and if tbe government have no surplus
revenue, the country possesses money unto plethora
— unto inflammation, and would gladly lend it to the
government for this or any purpose, at a very triffing
interest; the English administration can never want
funds; besides, parliament gave twenty million pounds
to buy the emancipation of the negroes, aud seventy
thousand to build more stabling at AVindsor, and surely
tbe Irish have as strong a claim as distant slaves or
pampered horses. It seems to rae little reputable that
good on a large scale, where money and trouble are
requisite, is always called " impossible." Buonaparte
said he did not recognise the word, it was bad French
— it is too genuine English.
Yesterday I gave Kathleen leave to attend the funeral
of some poor old woraan who died in the workhouse,
and who in her better days, Kathleen said, " was good
to her brother that's gone— the heavens be their bed."
On her return — and she only purposed, uninvited, to
follow the body to the churchyard (a mark of respect)
—she was in high indignation. The poorer Irish think
much of a proper burial; a kindly feeling, though they
may carry it too far — by no means the fault of the
English in their kindnesses,
" And shure, ma' ara, there'll be a judgment on this
people yet, if the earthquake did miss, and showed
itself in the Indies, they say. And I thought there
would be a dacent buryin' for Mrs. Brady, that was
never a disgrace to any one, and was put into the

310 LETTERS PROM
workhouse in spite of the teeth of her, by the neigh
bours as wouldn't let her die in pace in her own bit
of a room, and pined away, the cratur, for sorrow
resave the face she knew in the could big poorhouse,
and the very kindness that's in it doesn't seem kind
ness. W^ell, raa'am — begging pardon for makin' so
bould — there wasn't a cratur at the buryin' — not a
single soul to say God rest her, now she's dead; and
four weak pauper raen carried the coffin, that isn't like
a coffin, but rough boards nailed together, and looks
just as if they was blackened by the blacking-brush
when it's dry and dusty, and looks, too, as if it would
hardly hold together, and if the body had come out!
— her that was a kind woman in her day! God melt
their hard hearts that puts a Christian in the ground
as if worms was to be considered before a fellow-
cratur; and they run with it, ma'am, run as if it wasn't
to tbe churchyard, and the earth that was shovelled up
wasn't like earth but ashes — and she was buried in a
corner where paupers is, as if the gentlefolk would be
infected in their graves if they was near the poor.
Blessed hoar! ma'am, there's kind people in England,
but they don't know what belongs to being kind to the
poor w hen they bury them like dogs they're glad to get
rid of."
I think — for I never refer back in a letter — I was
saying something about funds or revenue; the produce
of the low income-tax was enormous, but the English
murmured much. I heard from more quarters than

AN AMERICAN LADY, 311
one that many of the rich saved tbe whole or part of
then income-tax by curtailing their expenditure, not
by abandoning any selfish enjoyment — they can be
accused of no such sacrifice — -but by lowering the wages
of their labourers, or making twenty men do work
once accounted sufficient for thu-ty, or simUar expe
dients, — aU very ingenious, and as only the poor suffer,
much to be approved. Think of some of tbe millions
of the income-tax being thus wrung from the indus
trious classes! I heard of one gentleman who made
it a rule yearly to lay by 8000/. at least, independently
of the interest accruing on bis accumulations; of course
he could not break through a rule, the 8000/. must
be put aside, but then the income-tax must be paid —
his expenditure would bear no further reduction, his
estabhshment, like himself, being of a very spare habit,
so his sarings fell 157/. short of the 8000/., and he
was for weeks in profound melancholy, and bow pro
foundly to be pitied.
Another case 1 heard of. A miserly— I mean a
" respectable"- — -merchant had an immense sum in
the English funds, to which he regularly added the
diridends. The income-tax astounded him — it came
upon him as deep snow would come in August, un
locked for, as unwelcome; but there was no escape.
This tax is a perfect rattle-snake for securing its prey,
but without any powers of fascination. The fund-
holder in question was so downcast that his house-
*keeper — he was a bachelor — sent for his physician;

312 LETTERS FROM
and Dr. C. told me, mentioning of course no names,
that he verily believed this lord of useless thousands
would have shot himself in pure horror at the tax, but
he was deterred by the cost of pistol and ball. Great
was Diana of the Ephesians, but greater is Mammon
of the English. Ever, etc.

AN AMERICAN LADY. 313

LETTER XXXI.

BOUNDARY QUESTION  ADVANTAGES OF SETTLEMENT  A PROOF
BEFORE LETTERS  EPSO.M AND THE DERBY-DAY  ^VEHICULAR
CHAIN  THE RACE-GROUND  THE RACE  RACE-HORSES  IHE
TURF  BAIS AND GREYS  RETURN — -VULGARISM  POLICE 
MAGAZINES AND REVIEWS.

Dearest Julia, London,  1843.
Of course 1 have frequently heard the
Boundary Question spoken about; but in good sooth
the people here care httle about it, those excepted who
are professed politicans, and with or without coffee —
" see through all things with their half-shut eyes ;"
their eyes indeed might be wholly shut for any clearness
in their views. The indifference about this question is
paraUel with the ignorance — their boundaries are the
same. One old lady who is prouder of her horses
than of her wealth, her high birth, her fair daughters,
or her jewels (indeed her horses, matchless though well-
matched, are the immediate jewels of her soul), expressed
to me great satisfaction, " that the Boundary Question
was settled at last, for it must have been so unpleasant
wben travelling to find your coachman trespassing on

314 LETTERS FROM
a wrong or disputed road, and baring to turn back
perhaps — so trying to the horses!" And the good
lady would find it trying enough to her horses were
they on tbe frontiers of Maine !
Even I feel quite assured on my Boundary knowledge
in London, though in New Y'^ork I should not venture
a remark on the subject, lest I should betray ignorance
(if such betrayal were treason, what a huge traitor were
England), iMany of the English are so apt to look
upon this Boundary dispute as upon a debateable line
(debateable enough it has been, to be sure,) between
two of their own counties or parishes; they are so
generally a people who travel not out of themselves,
and judge all matters by tbeir preconceived notions of
familiar things. If tbe territory west of the Rocky
^Mountains be mentioned, they seem to have a vague
notion of a transatlantic Wales. Not that the many
oracles of this uninformed, unlettered class will scruple
judgment upon x\mei'ican questions — far from it, they
will even declare they can prove their opinions upon
Yankee topics to be correct — this is rather like what
engravers call "a proof before letters:"
" They'll sit by the fire and presume to know
What's done i' the Capitol."
Ignorance is presumptuous, the reason I suppose why
so very many in England liberally force opinion and
advice upon others; this may be intolerably wearisome
to the sufferers, but I am glad to find such persons
liberal in any thing. Perhaps, dear love, I weary your

AN AMERICAN LADY. 315
patience with these constant recurrences to English
ignorance; but one can no more help noticing it than
a person bent on a pleasant pedestrian excursion can
avoid being watchful of the weather.
I declined an in\'itation to accompany a party to
Epsom Races, on what is called the Derby-day. I
expected to be busy with packages, and more inte
rested in my own dark silk gowns than in the jockey's
hght silk jackets, besides, I was there last year, and
may say of it as Foote said of a draught of pure spring
water, "It's all very well — for once." Last year (I
was very earnest in sight-seeing then) I accorapanied
Mr. and Mrs. Griffiths and a friend of theirs, a stout
gentleman whose name I forget, a jocose free person
and M. P, withal.
We went gaUantly in a carriage and four, the dis
tance is some twenty miles. How can I convey to your
American mind a notion of what I saw? You have
gazed on crowds in Broadway, — you have heard of
Roman triumphs — you have noted — but what avails it?
You can form no adequate notion of the procession to
Epsom on the Derby-day. Such leagues of carriages,
one closely following another as if linked by design to
form a curious vehicular chain, and one in its linked
hregularity so long drawn out. Every possible and
impossible carriage was there, including numerous
spring-wagons, called spring-vans, or to speak d-la-
cockney, wans (they being generally a bright yellow),
filled with the lower orders, journeymen-mechanics with

316 LETTERS FROM
their wives or sweethearts dressed in their holiday
garbs; the seats being rented for the day at so much —
about a dollar I beheve. Beside these were equestrians
and pedestrians, I was about to write footmen, but I
ought to reserve that word for the few thousands who
sat behind carriages. And this on every road to
Epsom, all IMiddlesex seemed migrating to these Surrey
Downs. As we neared any turnpike-gate on our tardy pro
gress, there was a stop and a long one; the official,
whom the soul of the elder Weller so abhorred; the
pikeman — a legalised extortioner — a paid eremite, and
much more an eremite since raUways usurped the rights
of royal roads, those revolutionary — but what am I
scribbling? I was about to say that the pikeman with
his attendant satellites, as well as the auxiliary police
men, were hoarse with wrangling before we reached
them. I suppose they would be voiceless before night.
If the discussion about the toll was long, loud in pro
portion was the abuse in the immediate rear. The day
was sultry, and the dust a series of long earthy clouds ;
it adhered to perspiring faces, forming a muddy mask —
a Persian might have exulted that his enemy was on
the road to Epsom that day; be ate dirt so literally and
plenteously. We reached the race-ground (a spacious plain) at
last; and our carriage was favourably enough fixed to
see the race andthe crowd too; the world eould shew
nothing equal; besides the forests of carriages, were

AN AMERICAN LADY. 317
foot-people as dense as insects in an ant-hill, and
apparently as busy, if not so well employed, and troops
of cavalry, and a townlet of booths and stalls to vend
refreshments; although I saw hampers of provisions
attached to carriages, as if provender had been laid in
for a short campaign. Dugald Dalgetty's spirit had
felt light within hira to witness so provident a class; —
the popping of champagne-corks, which ]Mrs. Trollope
heard from English visitors in one of the churches
at Rome, during a festival (?) — another instance of her
amazing powers of observation — was really and truly
frequent at Epsom; sherry too seemed as abundant as
if it were the indigenous production of this vineless
island (some of it is, they say), and all betokened
hilarity. Then there were gaming-booths, and tables, and
stools of all kinds, and hawkers vending every thing,
especially large editions of bills of the races, and
gipsy-women with their bronzed faces and bold black
eyes, offering to tell fortunes. I was glad to see real
gipsies. The Grand Stand, a lofty well-balconied build
ing, was fiUed with ladies and gentlemen, and all this
for what? For mere amusement, to see a few horses
gaUop a couple of miles ! I had heard and read much
of English speeches, and pamphlets suggestive of hard
plans to save a farthing in the pound in poors-rates,
and grievous want of schools from want of funds, of
churches unendowed, ministers unpaid, crime unmiti
gated, hunger unappeased; and I looked round and
told the Honourable M. P. such account must be an

318 LETTERS FROM
exaggeration, nay, an impossibility; he laughed as he
avouched the truth; the reality of the poverty and the
ignorance. Thousands, I believe I may say hundreds of thou
sands, of wagered pounds, depended upon the result of
this Derby race; and the course along which the horses
run was duly cleared of its crowd, and we soon saw
some twenty steeds, more or less, rush past, their
riders in caps and jackets of different colours, and the
ground sounding underneath their rapid tread as if it
were hollow, and then was a shout, and tbe thousanded
race was over.
Carrier-pigeons were soon released and flew joyously
into the air, describing brief circles as if they loitered
a few moments to look down upon the scene, and, after
the fashion of Cowper's jackdaw, moralise upon
"The bustle and the raree-show,
That occupied mankind below;"
and then away they darted to convey to all parts the
iraportant news of who won the Derby. I raay well
call it the thousanded race, for it seeras the stakes
alone, which must be paid upon pain of exile frora the
racing fraternity, amounted to between four and five
thousand pounds.
Soon after the race was over, Mr. PhiUy (you remem
ber bis being in New York) came to tell us AttUa, or
Alaric, I forget, had won: as I had never heard any
of the horses' names before, I cannot say I felt rauch
interest in the announcement. Great iraportance is
attached to horse-racing by the English; the wagers

AN AMERICAN LADY, 319
on the result of the great races, o.v, as it is called, "the
odds," are as regularly quoted as the price of stocks.
If a race-horse, from whose speed much is anticipated,
be ill, there are — not bulletins certainly — those seem
confined to royalty, official rank, and opera singers —
hut announcements of the important fact; a race-horse
coughs in Newmarket, or in Richmond or Malton in
the North, the places where these treasured quadrupeds
are boarded, lodged, and exercised, or, technically,
trained, and the sound thereof reaches London !
Many make it tbeir profession to bet at horse-races
— even some who place "Lord" or "Honourable" be
fore their names. These professional gentlemen are
called black legs, or more briefly, legs; and, along with
the jockeys, always little raen that they may not weigh
too hearily, have what is called "the knowing look" —
the pecuhar style of physiognomy is? not uncommon in
America: some of these "legs" and jockeys realise
large fortunes. You wonder how I know all this. Mr.
PhUly is an ardent horse racer, and played the turf
historian to me; horse-racing is called "tbe turf," from
the green swards of the race-grounds I fancy. Mr.
PhUly always rerainds rae of an actor off the stage, he
is so very close shorn and whiskerless.
I have lately read somewhere that Dr. Henry, the
historian, declared that few things were more per
manent and less affected by change than national diver
sions. The diversion of horse-racing seems to shew
he was right; it is a very English amusement, and

320 LETTERS FROM
apparently a very permanent one. I have heard
Americans censure it freely enough, but I am not dis
posed to join in the censure; it is a manly, healthful
amusement, carried on in the open air and the broad
daylight, and to be enjoyed by the poor as well as the
rich, which can be said of few other amusements in
this country; it has given England the noblest breed
of horses in the world, and that surely is a national
benefit. Apropos des bottes, ou des bites, I will tell you
a tale of a wealthy man of horses — he was dining at
the table of the Earl of  , and there was mention
of a once very famous gentleman. "Ah!" said a
guest, " he seems almost forgotten now, his bays bave
faded." "Bays!" exclaimed tbe horse-loving esquire,
" he never kept any; drove greys, my lord, always."
But it may be said, think of the untaught, unclad,
unfed poor, and then justify the sums squandered on
race-horses. More shame to the miserly selfishness of
the rich English, who, if they would, could so easily
deny ignorance and famine to the poor (I mean as a
rule), and have their horse-races too — yes, indeed, lady
fair, were they ten times as costly.
We were longer in returning from Epsom to London
than going to Epsom. My heart bled to see the poor
jaded horses in many overladen vehicles, and indeed
some lay dead by tbe road-side. During tbe frequent
halts or stoppages, on our return, there was much
altercation among coachmen and others. It was carried
on in a language I did not understand, but I was told

AX AMERICAN LADY. 321
it was vulgarly styled chaffing — an appropriate term.
Despicable as chaff to the rich grain is this popular
phraseology to genuine English. Very many were the
inquiries if people's mothers were cognisant of their
children's risits to the races. ]Maternal solicitude is
an established joke in England; they have overcome
vulgar prejudices. Nearly as frequent were the, I
thought not altogether impertinent, queries of " How
long have you been out of an asylum?" All parties
are exposed to the hearing of this English wit, for the
carriage-line must not be deviated from. Had this
vulgar nonsense been heard in America, how it would
have shocked the dehcate ears of British travellers.
There was so httle of it in the morning, and so much in
the evening that I suppose the good cheer at Epsora
had caUed the full spirit of raUlery forth.
All the taverns along tbe road seemed crowded, and
no doubt the excise was "fatten'd with the rich result."
TV e stopped to give the horses some water five or six
miles from London, and a crowd was collected, bent
upon a boxing match, and swearing disdain of the
pohce. Three policemen were seen advancing rapidly
and confidently, and the crowd, as Steele said of the
French under Marshal Boufflers, " ran away from 'em
as bold as lions." Although I had an interview with
an ungracious officer of poUce, I believe/ as a body
they are useful, civil, and quiet.
Horse-racing, along with other sports no doubt, has
its pecuhar literature; it has also its code of laws — a
V

:r4Z LETTERS FROM
club called a Jockey Club being its parliament. I have
never read any of the sporting magazines or reviews,
or whatever they are, but they have a nice look with
them. By the by, dear Julia, are you more censorious
than you were, more lago-ish (don't frown, but indeed
you can't) — more "nothing unless critical," that you
sny of B.'s M  (quite an oracle here), " it always
bas two or three good articles, and the rest may be
clever only they are unreadable." I am always right
glad to get the North American and Democratic Re
views and others, though I ara little interested in
politics. The periodical literature of America is far
too little appreciated in England. It were absurd to
praise to you the Edinburgh or Quarterly Reviews
here. " The last Quarterly," or " the last Edinburgh,"
has ever a pleasant sound; they may be called joint
presidents of the republic of letters. Ever, etc.

AX AMERICAN LADY. 323

LETTER XXXll.

SUICIDES  EDUCATION  STABLES AND SCHOOLS  BISHOP OF MAN
CHESTER  STR.ANGE PUZZLEMENT  INDIANS— INGENUITY IN
IGNORANCE  MR. ALISON — FOUR FRIGATES AGAINST TWO THOU
SAND SHIPS  AMERICAN BOASTFULNESS  ENGLISH INQUIRIES.

Dearest Julia, London,  1843.
A custom, I ought rather to say a fashion,
seems becoming popular in the city of London, I mean
that of punishing persons who have been frustrated in
their frightful attempts at suicide. If the unhappy
wretch had accomplished self-murder, and was known,
tbe coroner's jury would in all probability have re
turned a verdict of "insanity." If accident or coura
geous benevolence has preserved a life, why should the
involuntary survivor be dealt with as if his sanity was
unquestionable? The jury's "insanity" in the one case
is undoubtedly huraane — the alderraan's "sanity" in
tbe other is a doubtful measure. This end undeniably
is promoted: a person meditating suicide knows he
wiU be punished, and worse still perhaps to his morbid
state of mind, exposed, if he do not succeed (how sad

324 LETTERS FROM
to call such a thing success), and he will therefore be
so resolute and wary in his procedure that he need
fear no interruption.
"Felo-de-se" is sometimes the verdict upon an in
quest; but I believe there never was any verdict but
"insanity" returned when the wretched suicide boasted
title or wealth. The watermen in the Thames occa
sionally find dead bodies floating, and have the humanity
to convey them on shore for sepulture; the waterman
has then perhaps to attend a police office to give infor
mation of the circumstance, and most assuredly must
attend before a coroner's jury to give evidence : much
of his time is thus consumed, much trouble is occa
sioned him, and what is his reward? Not a farthing!
His family may be wanting bread whUst he is thus idle
upon compulsion, but that is his concern. What right
had he to be finding the body of some person unknown,
and for whieh no reward had been offered, and so
putting tbe parish to the cost of the blackish boards,
and fees, constituting a parish funeral?
That suicides are so much more frequent in London,
the population being fully considered, than in American
cities, is easily accounted for; their betters (so called)
choose the poor here to be untaught and reckless, and
so they rush to death to escape the pressure of want or
sorrow. I wonder the wealthy do not choose the poor
to be educated, surely they would be more orderly and
governable— at any rate not so liable to be acted upon
by designing demagogues, and the repose of the rich

AN AMERICAN LADY. 'o.i,)
would not be so disturbed by their clamours, while the
sum of poverty would be less, and suicides fewer.
I can hardly believe that even parliamentary reports
tell true of the ignorance of England, when 1 know
that Connecticut alone has a permanent school-fund of
nearly two million and a half of dollars; whilst it was
found at the last census there were little raore thau
five hundred adults in that small State who had not
heen taught to read and write, and they were chiefly
foreigners — the population being rather raore than three
hundred thousand. New York, with its fund of more
than ten million of dollars for educational purposes —
hut why dwell upon the truism, how well tbe scholastic
culture of American citizens is cared for as a general
rule? And what is accorded for the purpose by the
wisdom of the British Parliaraent? An accuraulation
of — talk, and a small sura of money — so small a sum
as 30,000/,— 150,000,1', for the nation, mind! not for
one of the counties; and even that was refused last
session or the session before. One anxious to find
fault might say it was illustrative of English legislation,
that the bills granting 70,000/. for new stabling at
Windsor and this mite for education were sent up on
the same night in the House of Comraons — the stables
were voted, the schools were not ! — the people could
wait it appeared, not so the horses. I would not have
you think that I ever speak of the Queen personally
with any feelings but those of respect and admiration.
I think she is raore popular than has been any predc-

326 LETTERS FROM
cesser of ber family, and I am sure she deserves to
be so.
1 listened in quiet and much amused silence to a
conversation at an evening party last night. Two of
the gentlemen conversing were clergymen, and the
subject a recent debate in the House of Lords. Their
Lordships admitted that a new bishopric was greatly
needed at Manchester, and funds were needed also;
it is proposed therefore to take one of the bishoprics
from Wales, and devote the income to maintain the
Bishop of Manchester. But then a Manchester epis
copacy is needed now, and the Welch see cannot be
appropriated during the lifetime of the present bishop.
No doubt a Bishop of Manchester would be appointed
to-morrow if tbe necessary funds were in hand, — but
how to raise them ? Really one's gravity gives way.
How to raise them !
Had noble lords or honourable gentlemen asked the
poor Roman Catholics of Ireland, or the Protestant
Episcopalians of America, information would not have
been churlishly withheld. Fancy the peers of England,
all churchmen except some thirty perhaps (and the
peers are only a few of the wealthy), gravely admitting
an important addition was necessary to the ministry of
their church, and as gravely (for it was all in perfect
gravity) debating bow the new prelate should be paid !
Why, ray lords, do you and your affluent brethren of
the church provide a fund to endow tbe see, and there's
an end. The like has been done by laborious poverty.

AN AMERICAN LADY.

surely it must be easy to powerful wealth; there is
precedent for it — ample precedent — most favourite pre
cedent, as well as the best authority (to say nothing of
Scripture) to sanction it; the most eloquent of English
phUosophers, bas said " Riches are for spending, and
spending for honour and good actions." This too, I
suppose, would be declared "impossible" — truly, no
doubt; only every one must know it raight easily be
done — nay, has been done.
Not a bishop was heard to say "My lords; the
church of which you are members, and through whose
teaching and instrumentality you .hope for salvation,
should be made more widely useful, that more sheep^s
may be called into her sacred fold. A bishop is indis
pensable in the populous town of Manchester. Provi
dence has blessed you with most ample means; it is the
duty of your lordships not so much to debate of this
thing as to do it."
Both the clergymen I mentioned were pious and
exceUent men — the accounts we hear at home of fox
hunting and wine-bibbing parsons bere are mightily
exaggerated — and yet it never occurred to either of
them, that churchmen from the fulness of their purses
should promote the well-being of their church! The
British clergy, from curate to archbishop, pious as they
are, seem so accustomed to this utter selfishness that
it actually passes with thern as a matter of course;
and uncensured! The "impossible" appears to be
admitted — even whilst it is so undeniable that the

328 LETTERS FROM
"unwilling" only exists. I do believe that plain and
obvious as was the duty of the bishops, not one of them
wben he reached his home would feel that he had neg
lected such duty ! Perhaps some stickler for precedent
might say, "0 the language put in a bishop's mouth
is unparliamentary." Possibly it is so — it is only
Christian and episcopal, and might be uttered on fifty
public occasions, or appear in print, if it be not the
proper style for a legislative assembly.
For the wealthy churchmen of England to profess
themselves puzzled how to pay what they consider an
indispensable ministry, is just as if a man should jingle
a number of sovereigns in his pocket for which he had
no use, and gravely debate within himself how he could
procure a book he felt he needed; the cost of which
was a shUling. All this sad selfishness and blindness
sounds incredible, but it is literally true.
Another difficulty presented itself about this hapless
bishopric — it was considered by some objectionable to
add another occupant to the Right Reverend Bench in
the House of Lords! If a bishop be really requisite
in Manchester, and if he cannot efficiently perform the
duties of his diocese unless he be a peer of parliament,
where can be the difficulty? The peers of England
may be giants in the path of legislation, but they do
stumble over strange straws.
I told you before how ignorant were very many of
the Enghsh about America. Mr. Wilderton. and his
family, confident in my Englishism, sometimes sportively

AX AMERICAN LADY. 329
turn tbe conversation to Y'ankee topics when any one
;s present who does not know I am a native of Aiuericu.
The other day, a young lady with voice and complexion
alike raised, told us how she had been reading some
missionary ti-acts, and then exclaimed against the
cruelties practised by the American governraent upon
the poor heathen — the benighted Indians. We soon
found that she had ingeniously gathered all Indians
(and it is so very vague and general a term) into one
grand aggregate, and imputed the sufferings and wrongs
of the natives of Hindostan, Australia, and North and
South America, all to our governraent ! By what mental
process she had arrived at this conclusion I do not
know; but it appears there is sometimes an ingenuity
even in ignorance. This young lady was very pious,
truly so I may not doubt, but her piety was too obtru
sive — too much in tbe style we heard a negro call
"talkee rehgion." ilr. Wilderton, very gently and
kindly, that she might not be again so preposterous,
pointed out to her tbe little mistake into which her
deficiency in geographical science had led her, when
she fervently thanked God, her knowledge was not " of
this world." Assuredly it is not.
Another young lady thought a country without a
king or queen must be so dull — all princes are so witty
that dulness is unknown within their circle; and wben
she found America had not always been a republic, she
asked who got the crown jewels the kings must have
had in the old times ! y 2

330 LETTERS FROM
Even intelligent persons in England appear to believe
that a system of harshness, rapacity, and injustice, is
pursued toward the aboriginal Indians, by the autho
rities and people in the United States. The contrary
I beheve to be the case. Few here appear to know
that the amount paid annually by our Government to
each Indian within the territories of the republic is
greater than the average araount of all taxes paid to
the state by a subject of Prussia; that is, each Indian
receives more from our Government than each Prussian
pays to his — this appears from an estimate prepared
from official reports for a Prussian periodical. Another
thing appears clear enough to me, that the English do
not like to be undeceived in tbeir erroneous estimate of.
American wrong-doings.
Surely ignorance of American matters is not to be
considered creditable to an Englishman, much less to
au English historian, — and yet how careless is Mr.
Alison, as if it were an indifferent matter whether his
statements about America were accurate or not; whether
he gave his readers facts, or dilutions of them. He
says that America rushed headlong into a war with
(neat Britain in 1812, with a navy of only four frigates.
"True," he proceeds, "the four frigates did great
things;" and as no othdi's are mentioned,, and more
than two thousand British vessels were lost or captured
during the war, they must indeed! What powers of
ubiquity each frigate must have possessed— far beyond
Sir Boyle Roach's bird, which was only in two places

AX AMERICAN LADY. 331
at once; even equal to those of the mad Tilburina's
love — " Ha! did you call my love?
— He's here! He's there! He's everywhere!"
The English admit they are greatly taken with the
beauty and completeness of the American line of packet
ships, and they ought to adrait those frigates were
more taking still; especially when they learn from Mr.
Alison, that the potent navy of Great Britain destroyed
or captured only sixteen hundred American vessels
during this unnatural contest.
One of the most arausing assertions of this grave
historian is, that araong the people of the United
States, "neither the future, nor the past, excite any
sort of attention! !" This in the front of the universal
complaint, (in Britain), that an American in his untiring
boastfulness of his country out-gasconades a Gascon !
Why, if they regard neither what has been, nor what
may be; what their country has accomphshed or hopes
to achieve, what can they boast of? Whence their
topics? Of the mere passing moment tbey cannot be,
it is impossible, for the uiidefinable present has ever
an uncertainty about it. 0 why, when America is
concerned, do so many Enghsh authors prove that
history is. indeed "an old almanack" — but without
an almanack's correctness? — Adieu.
P. S.— I wrote the foregoing this morning, and must
add a few lines before I retire to rest — for tbe assertion
I have made of the extent, the amazing extent of

332 LETTERS FROM
English ignorance upon American topics, has been
amply confirmed. It is odd enough that tbe people of
the country possessing more colonies than all the world
beside, seem to know least of transatlantic matters; — it
is not because they care less, but because they think
they know, and here ignorance is no reproach. 1 have
just returned frora  . I dined there; rather a large
party, and tbe conversation was chiefly about America.
A lady was present whose appearance is very pre
possessing : she is one of the few (not young) ladies
looking exceedingly well in light colours, even in white;
in her youth she had been governess in the faniUy of
Lord  , whose eldest daughter, educated by this
very lady, is accounted " literary " — indeed to have
no twilight tinge of blue : the governess, from her
uncommon beauty attracted the attention of one of
her ladyship's relatives, and they were married. She
asked rae on this occasion if we were likely to approve
of Sir C. Metcalfe in the room of Sir C. Bagot, for
governor ? I answered that the people of the United
States could not be expected to care rauch about it.
" 0, he is not governor of that part of America then,
I mean your part?"
" My dear," interposed her husband, " you have
forgotten that the United States revolted a long time
ago, and are not now under the control of tbe governor
of Canada."
The lady smiled most pleasantly, and I was lost in
admiration — the gentleman was so very well informed.

AN AMERICAN LADY. 333
English ladies, as I said before, always smUe when
ignorant of the matter iu discourse— and sweetly too.
" Those constant smiles," said Talleyrand, "all beyond
understanding." A gentleman in the same company spoke as one
having authority; he entertained us with an account of
his ta-avels in Russia; and it then pleased hira to be
severe on the American love for show — for tinsel ! Yes,
Juha, tinsel! Surely he was not thinking of the fond
ness of the aborigines for glitter and beads — for perhaps
he had read Robertson. He then " changed his hand,"
and was very indignant at our shameful treatment of
the free blacks. Mr. B. asked him if he had ever seen
a veritable negro? "Of course I have," replied the
gentleman with a sneer of wisdora, "a hundred and
fifty together, and in London." I now felt desirous of
hearing more, thinking that the numberless advocates
of slave-emancipation in England had overcome their
repugnance to any domestic or social intercourse ^vith
negroes, and that some of the free Africans might
become settled in the Three Queendoms, as in the free
States with us; but it came out, alas! in consequence
. of Mr. B.'s further questioning, that this traveller and
debater had seen a hundred and fifty East Indians at
one of the docks, and mistook them for Guinea negroes,
with their woolly beads and copiousness of lip !
There used to be complaints of East India captains
bringing over Asiatic saUors, and abandoning thera in
London. As it respected foreigners very probably some

334 LETTERS FROM
remedy has been found for the wrong. I have seen
some of these Lascars acting as street-sweepers here —
standing at the crossings in their native attire, and
looking quite picturesque. I suppose from their com
plexion and physiognomy (at once malign and keen)
that they are Malays — negroes indeed ! At one of *
the Anti-Slavery Meetings in Exeter Hall, a man of
colour (not a black) frora one of our cities spoke very
well. " I told you," one lady said to another, before
they got into their carriage, for I was waiting close
behind and could not avoid hearing, " I told you, my
love, and you see I was correct, the Americans are not
black, only brown." You are not very brown, Julia.
A lady once expressed to me her commiseration that I
was returning to a city so pestered with — what think
you? Rats? No. jMosquitoes? No. AUigators!
Again adieu. Ever, etc.

AX AMERICAN LADY.

; LETTER XXXIII.
FUNERALS — PROFESSORS OF TEARS  A BLACK COACHMAN — THE
IRISH 'wakes'  'the SCREAM OF THE MORNING '  NEW ENG
LAND TOWNS  NEWNESS  MR. DICKENS  NEW YORK  ' UNCRE
DITABLE ' STATEMENT  MR. GUY  YORKSHIRE  RUIN OF ENGLAND
 RUINED CITIES OF AMERICA  CHINESE EXHIBITION  ' LITERARY
GENTLEMEN IN THEIR SUMMER COSTUMES '  PENNY-A-LINERS 
CHINA  A FIT OF ' ABSTRACTION.'

My DEAREST Julia, London,  1843.
"They order," said Sterne, "this matter
better in France;" and they order, say I, these things
better in America, — I speak of funerals, of funereal
pomps; not merely those of the aristocratic in rank,
but among the raiddle classes.
" And see the well-plumed hearse comes nodding on,"
and it is followed by a string of mourning-coaches, and
alongside walk men called " mutes," or " mourners,"
who are hired for the occasion — vicarious sorrowers —
professors of tears! The horses are all black; plumes
and feathers wave abundantly; pomp is lavished on an
occasion when men ought to feel its nothingness— and
so the procession advances to the abode of death.

336 LETTERS FROM
These gorgeous funerals are called " a mark of re
spect" — to whom? The dead cannot feel it, and is
living sorrow to be soothed by parade? Even if it be
a mark of respect, who is to observe it in the crowded
streets of London? The worldling may bestow a
fugitive glance, to criticise the show, but does any
one ask who is thus honoured or mocked (as men may
regard it); does any stranger stop to say, "W'hose
funeral is that?" Very — very rarely. Domestic affec
tions are I doubt not strong in England— for even a
selfish man loves his family, were it only because
they are his, and surely those, whatever their relation
ship, who follow the hearse, cannot be soothed or
gratified that they follow it, as if the grave were to be
approached triuuiphally. Then the expense is often
enormous: in cases where money is abundant, this
raatters little; but when the means of a family are
reduced by its head being called hence, what folly to
squander a large sura to enrich an undertaker. Is
not widowhood bitter enough, without poverty being
superadded? Alas, and alas! — yes.
I have heard it reraarked that undertakers, with
mutes, mourners, " and all their trumpery," were in
general jovial-looking persons; no doubt the wine and
spirit jiistributed to them at funerals, and their fre
quent exposure to the weather, give them a rosy look
— an added mockery. The announcement on the signs
of those tradesmen is far more indicative of their caU
ing than . are the coffin-ornaments in their windows —
"Funerals performed."

AN A.MERICAN LADY. 337
The other morning I received a message frora the
coachmaster, that he wished to employ the man, who
drives my " job " otherwise, and more profitably for
him, three or four days, and hoped it would be the same
to me, as he would send a very civil and careful black
coachman in his stead; of course I assented, and was
indeed rather curious to see this negro Autoraedon; for
such I concluded he would be, though on his appearance
he proved but one of tbe pale-faces, if a man with a
bright, rum-coloured nose (cause and effect perhaps)
can be caUed a pale-face. It seems he habitually drives
a hearse or mournmg coach, caUed " a black job," and
is therefore, after the favourite elhpsis, called "a black
coachman." This man drove characteristically, as if at
a funeral, and always wore a suit of rusty black; so do
his professional brethren; and though they may not
" — bear about the mockery of woe
To midnight dances and the public show,"
they will to tbeir pot-houses and vulgar haunts. I
think the simplicity of American funerals is greatly
preferable; the kinsfolk and friends following the
corpse, either on foot or in plain plumeless carriages,
thus unostentatiously rendering tbe last — what a sorrow
ful word it is! — tbe last earthly office; and this is also
the custora m the country parts of England. Happily,
London is not yet England. What a contrast these
splendid funerals offer to the pauper's. In the funerals
of the gentry it is customary for the friends to — not
attend, but to send their carriages; the blinds being up

338 LETTERS FROM
— surely personal attendance might be yielded — if this
carriage-sending be considered a raark of respect, it is
a very empty one.
You have read of the Irish " wakes." I have heard
them much censured in England, but they are far more
defensible than the unmeaning pomp I have described;
they have at least the expression of grief, if it be too
violent. I have listened and felt interest in Kathleen's
account of these cereraonies; they seem to me quite
oriental — simUar to the loud "wul-wuUeh," the dirge
of the Turkish women — it is mentioned in one of the
stanzas of the Bride of Abydos. I understand that
many women, whose reputation as "a beautiful cry" is
established, go uninvited from wake to wake in Ireland,
but are not generally paid, only at least in provisions.
The body is "waked" by the funereal screams every
second hour for three days among the better classes —
shorter periods among the poorer : the wailings are -
hushed after midnight, until the dawn appears, when
tbey rise shriller and wilder, and must sound awful
in the stillness of the morning. It is a curse and a
dire one in Ireland, "schrad wannauth " (I spell from
my ear), "the scream of the morning to you!"
I think if I lived in Ireland I should love the people
dearly; and if I had to prolong my stay in Europe a
few months I should like to visit it, only I could not
do so alone. Miss Edgeworth has made us familiar
with ber country; ob! why bas she ceased to write?
" She will not write, and (more provoking still)
y e gods ! she will not write and  will. ' '

AN AMERICAN LADY, oo'J
What a contrast the towns in "ould Ireland" must
present to the flourishing towns and vUlagcs in Ne^\
England, such as Portland, Brunswick, Augusta, and
Bangor in Maine; Worcester, Springfield, Concord,
Northampton, Amherst, in Massachusetts; Concord
and Keene in New Hampshire (I really cannot forbear
going on with the list, I take such a pleasure in it — it
tells so of home); Brattleboro' and Burlington in Ver
mont; New Haven, jMiddletown, and Norwich in Con
necticut, and hundreds of others, which to mention
were tiresome. I wonder that European travellers
have said so httle of places where the purer American
character is found — have so sparingly commended
their morahty, industry, and enterprise; surely they
cannot prefer the picturesqueness of rags, beggary, and
crime in the towns of the old world. It must be that
these American towns, being devoid alike of squalid
and most attenuated poverty and flaunting overgrown
wealth, may present few characteristics fitted to fill
pointed paragraphs, but some one raight have expressed
a wish, — would it were thus in old England! Near
London is a new model prison. New Haven I think a
model town; for I believe among its fifteen thousand
inhabitants there is hardly a single pauper, and in
1835 there were only three adults unable to read and
write, Boz quizzes the newness, the yesterday-aspect of
these places: why surely he did not expect the rust
of antiquity in modern transatlantic towns? And as

340 LETTERS FROM
for newness, let him laugh at the newness of his own
pleasant locale, the Regent's Park, though to be sure
the stucco does look something musty. Mr. Dickens
passed a Sunday in 'Worcester, Massachusetts, and
amused himself with the new houses and the church
goers — but he seems not to have discovered that in that
little town, its newness notwithstanding, is an Anti
quarian Society with a library of twelve thousand
volumes — some of them very rare; and more remark
able still in such a chronicler, its excellent State Asylum
for the insane has apparently escaped him too. I am
always amused to think of the criticisms the iVmerican
boys passed upon Boz as he sat in the car at Baltimore,
telling him more about his appearance than he ever
heard in his life before. I really think he had as little
to fear as most men from such a personal review.
Though I have commented to you freely enough on Mr.
Dickens's American Notes, I cannot but admit the tone
of right feeling, the bonhomie, the kindliness that often
manifests itself: the faults of the author in this work
are of a negative character, his merits are positive.
"Satire's his weapon, but he's too discreet" — too
gentlemanly, too honourable to carry it into private life
— into personal details. The ponderous blunderings of
Mr. Alison are far raore censurable than the light
raistakes of Boz. I wonder how he came to adopt
so absurd a name? Our ears have become famUiarised
to it, but it is absurd — Boz! What meaning is there
in the sound ? — Boz !

AN AMERICAN LADY. 341
I have heard of some cynic declaring that he found
tbe world only one attorney, and I was horrified to
read the other day that New York was one bankrupt.
Newspaper paragraphs told of the whole side of a paper
being ffiled with the names; I soon found however,
that the list was of years, and not of a single day, as
was intimated — but I did not find that the English
newspapers made this very necessary explanation. This
was hardly fair, and in quarters where one generally
expects fairness, and often finds it too.
ilr. Guy — you wonder 1 mention him so frequently
— but he amuses me — be anglicises so rapidly, and is
so especial, so particular an exception to the general
shrewdness and intelligence of his countrymen. Mr.
Guy has lately procured unto himself a fiery steed, coal-
black as Odin's, and this morning immediately after
breakfast, as I was looking out of the window, and the
street was only beginning to be busy, a cavalier was
rapidly approaching — I thought I could not be mis
taken in the gentleman,
" Who thundering came on blackest steed.
With slacken 'd bit and hoof of speed ;"
and it was Mr. Guy — he stopped so suddenly at the
door that he had nearly aUgbted over the horse's head,
and there might have been on the skull or pavement
" a dint of pity;" — he caUed to teU me that Mrs, Guy
and he would depart for Edinburgh in a short time,
and ilrs. Guy was going to hold a farewell soiree, and
requested the pleasure of ray company; notes were to

342 LETTERS FROM
be sent to the general visitors, but he was calling upon
a few personally, as a compliment to them, and nice
exercise for his new horse ! Tbe worthy man lately has
been in Yorkshire, where Mrs. Guy has a small property,
and where he bought this wonderful quadruped, bring
ing it up with him by railway; he was delighted with
the hospitality of the farmer, the late owner of the
animal, " Who gave him bacon, nothing lean.
Pudding that might have pleased a dean,"
and fowls and custards, and I know not what — then
came the wine, the brandy, and the bargain. I doubt
not the hearty Yorkshireman taught his guest to drink
deep ere he departed. Mrs. Guy, her husband told
me, had engaged two London footraen, who looked
almighty spry, and spoke, she said, " high English."
I hope that does not raean pure Cockney. Everything
intimates a determination to' surprise their immediate
circle in the Scottish metropolis, and unless it be
a very difficult feat, Mr. Guy is tolerably certain to
accomplish it.
I met a young English gentleman the other evening,
to be sure he was a very young one, and the only speci
men of the class, if it be a class, I have met with or
heard of; he was most emphatic, and the emphasis
sounded more oddly being drawn through the nose, on
the ruin of England, raorai, religious, and political. I
never heard an American so positive on the subject,
which is saying something. The despondent youth

AX AMKRICAX LADV. 343
even favoured us with a quotation raore remarkable for
being alliterative than original — England, he said —
" bloomed — a garden and a grave ! "
Mr. Mortimer, who was at first sitting apart, looking
at some maps, affected to believe as be joined in the
conversation that the hne had been applied to Kensal
Green cemeterj", and was complimentary on its appo-
siteness! The ruin of England — such nonsense! I
have heard of this ruin being shewn from statistical
details, official returns, and newspaper statements; the
existence of great evils has thus been proved (tbe worst
of which, ignorance and poverty, the English might
easily ameliorate if they chose); but as to ruin — this
same ruin has been proved in the sarae way every year
for the last fifty at least.
The conversation then turned to those raost interest
ing places, the ruined cities in tbe southern parts of
North America, Guatemala, Yucatan, and IMexico. A
good deal of interest seems to be felt on the subject in
England — how can it be otherwise, when Mr, Norman
tells us that the ruins of the city of Chi Chen, in
Yucatan, shew it must have beeii one of the largest
tbe world ever saw. Tbe same evening, I remember,
we visited tbe Chinese exhibition here : a very interest
ing one it is, and I really wonder how the collector (an
American I believe) contrived to amass so raany curious
things among a people so jealous of foreign interference
as the Chinese, and theu transport them to England.
The collection is so arranged that it teUs its own tale—

344 LETTERS FROM
artisans are represented at their work, and shops with
their wares. Literary ability is much valued in China,
and there were figures of Chinese literary gentlemen
in their summer costumes. Two poorly - dressed dis
sipated-looking young men were commenting loudly
and laughingly on this, " How could we be re
presented," asked one, "in our sumraer costume?"
" EasUy," replied the other, " shirt sleeves and blouse
in summer — Mackintosh in winter." The "we"
shewed tbe gentlemen were, or accounted themselves
literary. " They were most likely penny-a-liners," Mr.
Mortimer said, " who had gained admittance gratu
itously, and were a class paid for paragraphs supplied
to tbe newspapers at the rate of a penny-a-line," (this
I suppose is to be understood literally); "tbe editor's
pruning-hook being often unsparingly applied before
tbe article is printed; they are stanch hunters after
news, and if not belied, sometimes ingenious coiners
of it."
The collection fills a noble hall, and is very rich in
lanterns. I do not wonder that the Chinese are fond
of artificial light, for they appear to prefer and adhere
to the artificial in every thing; except perhaps in their
cowardice, which seems very natural. What will the
empire of China be a hundred years hence? WiU it
form a fourth Presidency with Bombay, Madras, and
Calcutta? The British it may be said have no right to
China: right, they may have none; but they have
soldiers, sailors, and steara-ships.

AX AMERICAX LADV 345
I have heard it said that the aristocratic fashion of
knocker and bell-handle abduction was on the dechne ;
hut an attempt, very nearly successful, was raade upon
our hall-knocker last night, perhaps it was the work of
some would-be aristocrats — sorae wine-inspired spirits
" scorning Reason's tame pedantic rules,
And Order's vulgar bondage, never meant
For souls subhme as theirs."
I should not have greatly cared if they had succeeded;
for the knocker has a most unpleasant teeth-on-edge
sound, and we must have had a new one then; the only
knock that interests rae rauch is the postman's; and
there is such a rapid running down stairs when it is
heai'd — indeed to quote a not very superlative bon mot
of Mr. N.'s  "it is a knock that brings everybody
down." Hood has made aU puns seem so poor com
pared to his, though puns I ought hardly to caU them,
tbey have such a body of wit. — The lady of the house has
just told me that she had discovered a young neighbour
was guUty of the attempt upon the knocker — when
accused of it, he said he had been dining out, and if he
did it, it must bave been in a fit of absence of mind!
He should have said in a fit of abstraction. Ever, etc.

346 LETTERS FROM

LETTER XXXIV.
CRIES OF LONDON  SOUND  ARISTOCRACY  GLUTTONY  "REPU
DIATION " — BANK OF ENGLAND — BAD EXAMPLE BADLY FOLLOWED
 STANDING ARMY  IRELAND— UNITED STATES A GREAT BARRACK
— MILITARY' DESPOTISM — ART-UNIONS  PRINCE ALBERT  SIR
ROBERT PEEL IN FETTERS  HOUSES IN AMERICA.

My dearest Julia, London,  1843.
I remeraber when I was a child in New York
being fond of a little pictorial work of " The Cries of
London," and thinking how pleasant it would be to
verify them in London. It would have been quite as
difficult as to verify the other wishes of childhood; for
diversified as are the street-criers and the wares they
vend, all agree in one thing — with one voice they accord
to be unintelligible. The purchasers of these itinerant
articles become used to the tone in which the sellers
announce their goods, and that seems sufficient — they
recognise the sound, if they cannot distinguish the
words or the sense.
Unhappily the English are satisfied with a similar
system in other things; they are contented with mere
sound, nay proud of being so. Christianity, charity,
and intelligence, are substantially in the land, but

AX AMERICAX LADY. 347
so strange is the sound thereof that the cries of
London are outdone iu their unintelligibility. The
echo to " Christian wealth " should not be " ignorant
poverty;" the echo to the injunction " use a portion
of your enormous, your superfluous wealth, to teach
and relieve the poor," should not be — "impossible."
Tbe Enghsh are " wise to learn and quick to know "
the faults of other people, in recompense no doubt
that they are stone-blind to their own; and if another
nation existed with half the means of England, and left
its poor uneducated and uncared for, and wben so
grievous a thing became known — how Exeter Hali
but no, I do not think there would be declamation in
E.xeter Hall, for indignation at such heartless neglect
would take away aU powers of oratory, —
"Strong feeling came, and throttled speech;"
the moral health — no, not that — the health of the
pubhc moralisers, would be endangered; pamphlets
they must wi-ite dim-nally, to carry off their humours;
if not privileged to be authors, apoplexy would be
authoritative among them; the surgical lancet must
be prevented by the philanthropic pen — they must let
either blood or ink.
Often in America have I been wearied to hear of the
arils of aristocracy; no matter what was the British
evil complained of, aristocracy was its root. Very idle
declamation was very industriously employed upon the
subject — " a cuckoo's song
That's unco easy said aye."

348 LETTERS FROM
But the worst aristocracy seems that of wealth — mere
wealth. Nothing can be said too strongly condemn
atory of tbe selfishness and sUliness of the rich here
(whether lords or shopkeepers, aristocrats or democrats,
matters nothing), who refuse food and schools to the
poor. But for our countrymen to irapute all the evUs
of England to its aristocracy, is just as absurd as in
Mr. Alison and sorae newspaper sages to impute all the
evUs of the United States to their democracy.
Cheap boarding-schools for boys are very common in
the North of England; though I beheve Mr. Dickens
bas written down some of their abominations. I have
heard of one of those schoolmasters, who did not
expose his scholars, or rather the boys committed to
his care (for there was small scholarship in the case),
to any ills that flesh may be heir to from over-feeding,
but nevertheless attributed all their ailments, bodily or
mental, to their gluttony; colds or fevers, dulness or
impudence, it stUl was gluttony. One day a poor boy
broke his leg out of doors, and was carried to the master,
" Ay, lad," he exclaimed, " I always told you this;
a broken leg — all owing to your gluttony." And so
all the evils of England or America are charged by the
short-sighted in both countries upon the devoted heads
of aristocracy and democracy — gluttons both, if we
believe such scribes, in their appetite for wrong.
How is the evil to be attributed to these antagonistic
causes if it be tbe same on both sides the Atlantic?
" Repudiation," for instance? The Bank of England,

AN AMERICAN LADY. 3-19
in the recoUection of many not very old people, "re
pudiated" cash payments; and this, I heard, was by
direct order from the government issued on a Sabbath-
day ! To be sure I also heard this corrected to " the
Lord's day," which certainly mends the matter. The
Governor and Company of the Bank of England pro
mised in very intelhgible print, to pay a pound, or so
many pounds, on demand, for value received. When
the demand was made, how was it complied with? Not
by payment in specie, for tbe acknowledged receipt of
value ; but by another promise to pay, on cleaner and
uncrumpled paper. Perhaps this was not exactly what
is now called " repuchation;" it seems to me moreover,
that when the British rulers, by an arbitrary act, re
duced the rate of interest frora five to three-and-a-half
per cent,, they " repudiated" a part of the engagement
to which public faith was pledged, and this in addi
tion to the refusal to pay in specie. I am sorry the
Rev. Sydney Smith had occasion to wi-ite his letter on
the subject of the non-payment of interest due on the
money borrowed from this country by the State of
Pennsylvania. The Britannia, a pleasant and clever
paper generally, attributed this " repudiation," as it is
too commonly caUed, to democracy! In former years,
when the interest was regularly paid, to what was that
to be attributed? Pennsylvania was as democratic
then. The ancient monarchies of Spain and Portugal
do not pay their debts, principal or interest, to this
country— democracy again, I suppose. Other States of

350 LETTERS FROM
the American Union are punctual in their payments,
are not tbey democratic? I understand, however,
that in reality Pennsylvania has never "repudiated"
one farthing of her debts; and though this and some
few of the other states have failed to provide for the
interest recently due, there can be no reasonable doubt
that all will be ultimately and honourably paid.
I wish fervently the two states, or whatever be the
number (Mr. Alison says eleven, so in all probability
there are not raore than two or three), who have "repu
diated " a part of their debts, so foUowing the precedent
of the Bank of England — a bad example almost as
badly foUowed — I wish, I say, these delinquent states
would carry out the example set by the Bank, and put
an end to the "repudiation," with this difference to
the Bank's procedure, that they wait not so long to do
it. I was told by a PhUadelphia gentleman, Mr. 
that if ever he said anything in coraraendation of his
country, and he is too diffident to do so unnecessarily,
he was always raet with this " repudiation," against
which the while he is strongly indignant. When
Mr.  pleases to talk, be can talk most eloquently;
but he cannot argue down prejudices that will not be
convinced, so he gives up the argument with such people
in perfect despair, and " every puny whipster gets his
sword," or thinks he gets it, — but this is nothing to the
serious evUs of " repudiation." To hear some people
talk of this matter one would think neither America
nor American ever paid a penny of public or private
debt or possessed a dollar.

AX AMERICAN LADY. 3.") 1
One might be amused with the perfect nonsense
on this subject in some of the papers, were it not
that the consequence may be lamentable by producing
OTong impressions ; the number of the English " vvho
undergo the fatigue of judging for themselves," being
as smaU as in Sheridan's days, their faith is orthodox
in their newspapers, they judge raost dependently, or
rather they form their judgment on what their favourite
scribes advance, and their judgment, or opinion (it may
not be proper to call \t judgment) once formed, is rarely
altered, no matter how erroneous have been the pre
mises, or how ingenuous the subsequent explanations —
tbeir seff-conceit prevents their acknowledging (even
to themselves may be) that they were wrong, and so
they misjudge to the end of tbe chapter. With this
propensity in so many of the readers, it is well that
tbe leading journals maintain the high independent
character (aUowing a little for party spirit) they
certainly do. Even great statesmen, in granting and
advocating great changes, have been known to confess
that their opinion of the impropriety of the concessions
remained unchanged! — English, very.
Another topic is not unfrequently dwelt upon in
America — tbe standing army of England and its in
fluence; there seems to rae nothing whatever to com-
plam of in the matter. The Continental kingdoms of
Europe maintain far larger standing armies; and
England has not at all the aspect of a military state,
soldiers are seldora seen in the streets of London. In

352 LETTERS FROM
Ireland no doubt it is very different, and it is dis
graceful to the statesmanship of the country that
30,000 soldiers are required to rule the Irish —
peaceably. No matter what are the causes for keeping
so large an army in the sister kingdom, the British
governraent have had abundant time to discover and
remove them. Ireland's stationary army furnishes a
fine comraentary on the complaints in England during
theCanadian insurrection, that the American government
did not better control the turbuleut spirits on its
frontiers — perhaps they could not spare 30,000 men
for the purpose!
I bave not had the good fortune to witness a review;
last year I did try to see one in Hyde Park, but I was
late, and saw little but a crowd and a dust — I mean
literally dust. Tbe soldiers are kept almost entirely in
barracks. I have seen the Guards on state occasions,
and a guardsman really presents the beau ideal of a
soldier— so erect, prompt, and trim, but with nothing
of the air of a "carpet-knight so trim" — they look right
soldierly. The militias are not embodied now, nor have
they given this country the multiplicity of colonels,
majors, and captains, which might make a stranger
think the United States of North America a great bar
rack. I wonder indeed no English traveller has insisted
upon so legitimate a deduction from the premises. As
to the relative bravery of American or British troops
when arrayed against each other, God forbid it should
ever be further tried.

AX AMERICAX LADY.

I have heard some in England prophesy the ultimate
fate of the United States to be — a military despotism;
republics end so, say they. When there are great
commotions, great conquerors arise, whom soldiers fol
low to any result, and whose achievements dazzle and
overawe the peaceful civilians. Witness Julius Csesar
— witness Napoleon Buonaparte. It can never in my
opinion be so in America ; for this plain reason, the
people are educated, and better still, well taught. JMen
who vrill unhesitatingly follow a martial leader through
blood and violence, through right and wrong, must
have minds blinded by ignorance. It may be said the
Puritans in Charles's days were not ignorant; but tbey
were fanatics, and fanaticism is a species of blindness
of mind. It may not, like ignorance, be altogether
unable to see the end to be attained, but it sees it
through so discoloured a mediura that its real character
IS not apparent. Crorawell's ambition seemed to his
soldiers but zeal for "God and tbe cause."
T^ »(» Jp 5|! sji ^
I have procured the engravings you write for, and
you have not overpraised them. There are now in
London establishments -called Art-Unions, and the sub
scribers to them every year have lotteries for paintings
and engravings. "You may get a good painting in
them," said ilr. N., "by chance." Tbey are all good,
I fancy, but of course varying considerably in value.
There have been complaints in print of the encourage
ment to immorality these lotteries present — one of the
q2

354 LETTERS FROM
gnats the English strain at when tired of swallowing
full-grown camels.
I sometimes see the best caricatures at Mr. Wilder-
ton's — a lady cannot stop to look at them in the print-
shop windows, the crowd of gazers preventing. I have
been surprised sometimes to observe the boldness with
which all the great people are quizzed — the initials
HB. are attached to the most famous. Certainly the
Duke, Lord Brougham, and Lord Morpeth, have no
reason to accuse these waggish artists of flattery. Mr.
O'Connell is another unmistakeable person; but these
gentlemen cannot complain, for the caricaturists often
make a subject of their sovereign — (excuse the quibble,
it is of the prevalent order, "the next best thing, etc.")
Neither does Prince Albert escape. One really ever
and anon understands some ponderous piece of politics
better from these clever sketches than from the long
parhamentary detail, or the pamphlets consequent
thereupon. The English (very characteristically) love
a sly bit at Prince Albert; having been— what shall I
say? — not very rich before he had the happiness to
marry a young lady undeniably the first match in the
wovld. "How fortunate," I heard a gentleman say,
"the income-tax does not affect German as well as Irish
absentees; Prince Albert saves the tax on his Saxe
Coburg property," It is no littie praise to His Royal
Highness that this seems the worst that can be said of
him. Mr. Wilderton has sometimes amused me by teUing

AN AMERICAN LADY. 355
of the criticisms he has heard people utter at the print-
shop windows. In one caricature. Sir Robert Peel, as
a character in some play, is represented in fetters; two
working men were looking at this, and one of thera
recognised Sir Robert. "But," said be, "surely he
never had irons on, nor was in prison, was he?" "I
assure you," interposed ]Mr. WUderton, "be has been
shackled," and walking away, he ungenerously left the
Premier's reputation in this uncertain state.
You must read Mr, Ahson on America, were it only
to wonder how a clever man could blunder so. He
actually tells his readers that the houses of the Ameri
cans are plain externaUy but gorgeous within, and this,
forsooth, to conceal their wealth frora the public eye !
Nay, he even assimilates our corafortable doraiciles to
the dweUings of the Jews in the days of Ivanhoe!
Ivanhoe being an imaginary character is introduced
with great propriety into this fanciful sketch. Ever, etc.

356 LETTERS FROM

LETTER XXXV.

POVERTY OF STRELT-NOMENCLATURR  ENGLISH CLIMATE  FIRE
FLIES AND MOSQUITOES — FOX-HUNTING  PLAYING AT DEER-
HUNTS  ANIMAL MAGNETISM  SLAVERY  MRS. TROLLOPE 
IGNORANCE  PRECEDENT — SANDWICH ISLANDS — DEMOCRACY OF
THE ANGLO-INDIAN GOVERNMENT.

My DEAREST Julia, London,  1843.
You and I have often laughed at the poverty
of invention, raanifest in naming many of the streets
in American cities; it certainly is a ready, but very
common-place way of distinguishing them to adopt the
letters of the alphabet, or the figured of the numeration
table. The English have not done so, they have no
"First" or "A" streets, but their nomenclature shews
equal poverty. Kings, queens, princes, and common
Christian names, have been the grand resource; the
John, James, WiUiam, George, Charles, and Charlotte
streets, are so numerous that they require the adjuncts
of one or more neighbouring thoroughfares or well-
known squares to designate them sufficiently, to dis
tinguish Charles-street of Berkeley from its namesake
of Grosvenor Square — Princes-street of Hanover from
the same of Leicester Square. If there be an offspring.

AX AMERICAN LADV. 00/
or rather an offshoot, a small child-street as it were,
from a John or WUliam street, nothing better can be
thought of than "Little" John or "Little" WUliam-
street — "Jack" or "BiU "-street would be in stricter
analogy with the example to be followed, and iteration
would be avoided.
The patrician famUies have furnished names in abund
ance to squares and streets — Grosvenor, Belgrave,
Montague, Cavendish, ^Manchester, Portland, Bedford,
and a host of others. The British warriors have given
appeUations to very many places, the statesmen to very
few. It requires an advanced state of education and
inteUigence for the people to regard a statesman as
equal to a warrior; or why not bave as many Pitt and
Fox, as Nelson and W^elhngton streets or squares?
After the philosophers, sages, and poets of England, no
places whatever are called, I think. A few might be
very euphoniously denominated after either the late or
present laureates. Why is it not so? I cannot tell,
unless it be that the moneyed people, who speculate in
new rows, terraces, and crescents (bricks and stucco
are a great passion with mafly), rather despise than
otherwise those who have only piety, rirtue, learning
and genius, to recommend thera. Yet Southey-street
satisfies the ear quite as agreeably as Sraith-street,
" Write them together, it is as fair a name ;
Sound them, it doth become the mouth as well ;
Weigh them, it is as heavy ; conjure them,
Southey will start a spirit as soon as Smith."
One raight have felt assured the English would have

358 LETTERS FROM
paid some such compliment to Lord Byron, peer as
well as poet, but it is not so.
The climate of this country is far better than I
expected. I should call it agreeable upon the whole,
its mists and rains notwithstanding; the English them
selves grumble more about it than do foreigners, and
talk of "out-living the severity of the May;" (a jest,
I suppose), as if they shivered at a breeze more than an
African reared under the equator. British moonlight
(gas and glare generally expel it from the streets of
London) is not as our moonlight, and the stars look
dim corapared to their brilliancy of sheen on tbe other
side the Atlantic. As to thunder-storras, I was told
that a forraer ambassador from the United States to
this court said, not very reverently, when he first
heard thunder in London — " Thunder ? tush ! only an
echo of it from over the sea." Thunder is sometimes
unheard in tbe busiest parts of London — tbe street
noise overpowers it.
Those awful thunder-storms in Araerica! You and
I know many strong-rainded persons who always stand
awed and terrified during the peal and the flash, —
indeed, we have been in companies where, as the
dreadful pother rolled over our heads, each one might
have received an affirmative answer to the question the
nobleman propounded when evil tidings were abruptly
told— " Look I so pale. Lord Dorset, as the rest?"
Mrs. Mortimer, who is very fond of a talk about

AX AMERICAX LADY. 359
America, often expresses her envy of our possessing
the fire-fly — much as I admire those dancing sparkles,
I would willingly sacrifice my share in theni, and give
them all ungrudgingly to Great Britain, or any other
country, if the mosquitoes might accompany them in
their change of scene. Imagine the consternation of
London citizens, aldermen and all, were a few regiments
of armed mosquitoes to be quartered upon them!
Great Britain and Ireland are delightfully free from
such annoyances. Venomous reptiles are almost, and
dangerous animals entirely, unknown. Tbe badger and
the otter, the last of the larger wild animals, seera
almost extinct — there is in truth no room for them
in minutely-cultivated England; foxes, no doubt, are
numerous enough, for they are preserved that gentle
men may hunt tbem.
I have heard a few Americans sneer at the English
fondness for fox-huuting, and call it a safe and even
effeminate pursuit — it is nothing of the kind, and these
scoffers seemed to forget that the island enjoys no
wolves nor ferocious beasts of prey. The British
gentlemen have only their foxes, but I am very sure
they would hunt anything; indeed, in India they do
hunt tigers, panthers, and lynxes. Shakspeare, Thom
son, and Cowper, have taught us to detest deer and
bare hunting on account of its cruelty; and the triumph
of a troop of men, dogs, and horses, in the death of
a harmless animal is a paltry one. I confess I have
not the same feelings for foxes or carnivorous beasts.

360 LETTERS FROM
hunters and robbers themselves; — there seems a sort of
poetical justice in their fate— who hunt in tbeir turn
shall be hunted.
Stag-hunting in England (and the Queen keeps a
pack of stag-hounds, some nobleraan being chief hunts
man); stag-hunting, I say, does appear quite inde
fensible — such a mere playing at the chase. The
animal is not to be kUled, but captured; — he is only to
endure toil and agony for the pleasure of the pursuers;
he is not roused from his forest lair, but is put out of
a cart and allowed so manv minutes start, and taken at
last to be carted back to his park-home to yield a
similar arauseraent some following time. Is not this as
complete a playing at wUd-deer hunting as if it was
in an equestrian amphitheatre?
I think all manly, fatiguing, out-door amusements
conducive to manliness of character; — the Squire
A\'estern class is I am told quite extinct in England,
but there are still numbers as much attached to their
horses and dogs. I remember when I was a little girl
reading in some odd old book (how well one can
recall passages impressed upon youthful memory), this
sentence, or one closely similar. I cannot give you
the obsolete spelling though.
" And Men of this sylvan Class do regard their
Horses much; the Swiftness of an Horse is the Matter
of their coraraon Talk ; yea, the good Quality of the
Animal is a powerful Magnet to draw unto him these
rustic Men's Loves."
An early mention of Animal Magnetism !

AN AMERICAN LADY. 361
I was once remaiking how free England was from
destructive beasts. "Yes," said a lady present, "and
England is free from another thing — slaves !" At least,
thought I, for I very rarely argue, unless by post, they
do not caU them by that name in this country. I have
heard sUly remarks about slavery from London ladies
and on both sides of the question. Mrs. TroUope,
in a fit of unaccustomed candour, has penned this
passage —
" I have listened to much dull and heavy conversa
tion in America, but rarely to any that I could strictly
call silly (if I except the everywhere privileged class of
very young ladies)."
It is true the novelist labours hard afterwards, by
narrating foolish talk, to prove tbe reverse of ber own
assertion, stUl she ought to have all honour for this
admission, whether made through thoughtlessness or
inadvertency or not. I cannot conscientiously say so
much of English conversations, even with tbe exception
made. I was asked the other day by Mrs.  , a lady
of what Mrs. T. would call high standing — " If the
United States were as well wooded as England? Her
two eldest daughters," she added, " had a little debate
on the subject, and as the younger children's governess
was absent, she could not be referred to."
The two eldest daughters were both " out," which
signffies an emancipation frora schooldom, an attain
ment of age aud knowledge befitting the young lady
for introduction into general society. Don't run away

362 LETTERS FROM
with the notion that the examples I have given prove
a general want of information; but I do think that the
young ladies of London possess more of showy accom
plishraent and less of solid knowledge than tbe same
class in New York. The fashionable education here,
communicates only a surface of knowledge, which re
quires youth and prettiness to set it off agreeably, but
afterwards  Young English ladies when at a loss
what to say do smile very sweetly.
I do not wonder that you express amusement (I
will refer to it, since I am on the subject) that Mrs.
Trollope should represent the impossibility of her re
visiting America — unless, firstly, Jonathan Jefferson
Whitlaw were forgotten; or, secondly, slavery were
abolished; or, thirdly, the Union of the twenty-six
States were dis-severed ! ! ! I cannot give less than a
note of admiration to each "category," as Cooper's
captain would call them. The good lady seems to
imagine that any one of those occurrences would form
an equaUy important era in the history of the United
States. "How we apples swim!" — the quotation is
somewhat musty, and it may not be proper to call a
famous English novelist a crab — but let it pass.
I cannot say I have ever heard any feasible plan for
the abolition of Negro slavery in America prescribed
by those who are most indignant upon its horrors —
by those who apparently think they have, to use a
Yankee phrase, an eloquence-privilege — this is as if a
physician should execrate a disease, and prescribe no

AX AMEKICAN LADY. 363
cure. The English cannot very decently advocate the
total and gratuitous manumission of the slaves,, tbey
have no precedent for such a measure, as theii own
Government bought negro freedora ; so the declaraation
contents them, and the remedy they have yet to find.
For one, I fervently hope that a reraedy, and an
equitable one, may soon be discovered.
You think I say much on this force of precedent,
and so I may, for life has often been sacrificed to it.
When George the Third, to go no further back, used
to be solicited to spare the lives of persons condemned
to death for forgerj', what was the reasoning? "Im
possible — many men and some women have been hanged
for the offence for which it is prayed this man may be par
doned, and if he be pardoned were not they murdered?"
And so men were hanged for precedent's sake ! This
was one of the " impossibles " of a former day — not a
jot more absurd than many insisted upon now.
An odd notion seems entertained here, that if an
American lady care any tbingfor English politics (happily
for my repose, I care very little), she must necessarily
be more attached to the whig than the tory party: she
must first understand the difference, and this is not
very easy, for there is no broad line of demarcation.
Neither party seems bigoted, but occasionally takes a
lesson from its opponents, and we bear oft enough of
conservative whigs and liberal tories; tbeir respective
views, like those at the Polytechnic exhibition, dissolve
occasionally one into the other.

364 LETTERS FROM
Not long since, I saw a brief paragraph in one of
the papers, to the effect that the Sandwich Islands had
been ceded to her Britannic Majesty, and taken pos
session of by one of her frigates. I rather wondered
at this piece of news, for the intercourse of the United
States with those islands is far beyond that of any
European power; the American whale-ships visiting
them very frequently, whilst om- countrymen have been
the principal agents in introducing Christianity. The
same evening some Member asked Sir Robert Peel in
the House of Commons, if the accounts of this cession
were correct? The Minister answered in the negative,
no further explanation was asked or given, and the
whole matter was so coolly treated — as if it had been
equally meritorious to take those islands or leave them
free. Had Sir Eobert deemed it a thing of any import
ance one way or the other, he would most probably
— his custom on a question — have retired into the
pompous secrecy of his official station, and said that it
might be prejudicial to the interests of her Majesty's
government to yield the Hon. Member tbe information
he sought. We have long since heard of the " pride
of place "—its reserve seems now as remarkable in
England. Some of the papers sneered at the Hawaian
envoys protesting from Paris against this "appro
priation " of their master's kingdom. In ray mind it
ill becoraes any one of any party in a free country to scoff
at the wish for independence, which another commu
nity, uo matter how small, may raanifest. How would

AX AMERICAN LADY. 3G5
it sound now, if a foreign chronicler of the thirteenth
century, when teUing of ^Magna Charta wrung from
the most unworthy of the Plantagenets, had ridiculed a
wish for freedom of any kind in the inhabitants of lialf
an island! Perhaps I ought hardly to say inhabitants,
for the Great Charter benefited the serfs nothing.
These agents from the Sandwich Islands government
are visiting the different courts of Europe to obtain a
formal recognition of the independence of the Islands;
tbe United States have aheady raade the acknowledg
ment. The recent conquest and annexation of Scinde
must be a sufficient sop (a vulgar word, but I do not
remember another equaUy expressive), to satisfy the
British government for a while, and induce it to stay
its forward step towards increase of territory. Is it
Mr. Alison who makes a profound remark about the
expansive and aggressive principle or propensity of
democracy — or soraething like that? No doubt the
Anglo-Indian governraent is a pure democracy. * *
The time approaches, dear Julia, when I must return,
and it seems to approach so rapidly. I look forward to
it with mingled dread and delight — dread, for there is
tbe parting with my kind English friends, whom I shall
probably never see again; dehght to regain horae and
you. "FareweU" sounds sadly, but it is "a word
that must be and hath been."
P.S. —You teU me Lord Morpeth won golden opinions
from aU sorts of Americans; he is highly esteemed by
his own countrymen, and seems indeed a model of an

366 LETTERS FROM
English nobleraan, or rather gentleman, which is the
nobler title. It is to be hoped there are many such,
the very salt of the aristocracy — the Attic salt if you
wUl. I was told by an excellent judge, that his speech
at the recent Anti- Slavery Meeting was admirable in
all respects; in tone, sentiraents, and delivery. I have
heard some of the English express surprise that so few
of the dignitaries of their church took a prominent part
in Anti-Slavery measures; perhaps they have not time.
I told you about Puseyism — to all appearance it holds
its own (to use a Scotticism), and even gains from
other people's. A number of Oxford divines and
fellows of colleges expostulated by formal letter to the
Vice-ChanceUor, that Dr. Pusey was suspended without
a hearing in his defence — a venerable Oxford fashion.
One gentleman also writes to the Times to give infor
mation about his own preaching, after this manner, of
"Laud, tbe martyred Archbishop, who let us trust,
still intercedes for this Church, whose enemies he
resisted unto death," etc, A step, a little step onward,
and the Rev. T. E. Morris, of Christ Church, Oxford,
and his flock might offer up orisons to a second St.
Thomas of Canterbury, and say, " ora pro nobis,"
Those prelates who have an inclination toward Puseyism,
at any rate those who wish to restore many ancient
customs, have never, that I have heard of, expressed
any desire to re-establish a practice long existent in the
earlier ages of Christianity, the election of bishops by
acclamation. Ever, etc.

AX A.MERICAN LADY. 367

LETTER XXXVI.

GAMING-HOUSES — PERSONAL CHARACTER OF THE SOVEREIGN— ROYAL
DINNLK- TABLE ETIQUETTE — TEMPERANCE SOCIETIES — MODERN
WORKS — PYRAMIDS — A SOIREE  A SHADOW  MACAULAy's "LAYs"
—WEALTH WORSHIP.

Dearest Julia, London,  1843.
I have often thought that axiom of Burke,
"rice, by losing aU its grossness loses half its evil," to
be more than half a fallacy; indeed, vice in such a
guise seems to me doubly reprehensible, for it has
ceased to be repulsive. I trust it will be long before
wickedness in the United States assume the names of
pleasure and refinement, or even the appearance of
them — before it lose tbe horrid look of wickedness. I
have heard Mr. Griffiths say, and he seeras to have a
knowledge of such places intimate enough to make his
famUy uneasy, that in the gaming-houses, or club
houses where gaming is practised in London, which
are the resort of the higher classes, all was fair and
honourable, intoxication was hardly known, nor would
the slightest advantage be taken of any gentleman who
might be flushed with wine; that, in short, in these

368 LETTERS FROM
club or gaming rooms, there was as much safety and
security from sharpers as in a friend's private drawing-
room. It may be so, but gentlemen are ruined in
those places every now and then for all this honour-
ableness. I have seen it mentioned in some papers, and rather
as a matter of pride, that in London, even in the
crowded haunts of the profligate and at all hours, pro
perty was safe, robberies being very unfrequent. This
may be so likewise, and what does it all prove? A
doubly dangerous state of society, because one in which
vice seems to enjoy the imraunity of virtue — dissipation
of order and decorura.
It is matter of cool remark here, that the personal
character and habits of the monarch were of great
importance, not in the nice adjustment or delicate
management of the state machine (toward which in
truth the character of tbe Sovereign personally seems
of singularly little raoment), but in its influence on
morals, manners, and tastes. The doraestic virtues of
the present Queen and her Consort being a raodel that
all her subjects raay study and imitate, is said to have
produced a beneficial effect upon society. Now it ap
pears to me, that cannot be a very commendable insti
tution in a Christian land which gives such power to
the example of any one, any fraU being of mortal clay,
though called "Majesty" in the respect, and "most
religious and gracious king'" in the prayers, of bis
people; but such a thought never occurs to the English,

AN AMERICAN LADY. 369
I would describe the Queen more particularly to you,
but really I think portraits of Her Majesty are or were
as common in New York as here; in how many a room
does she hang side by side with one whom her grand
sire httle loved? Wonderful in England, as well as
in America, is the ingenuity displayed in misrepresent
ing her prettiness. The Duchess of Kent is a stately-
looking lady, much taller than her daughter. The
Queen Dowager, although six years younger, looks
older than the Duchess, I think; but then she is slim,
and has the air of infirm health. The King of Hanover,
who is now in England, is a tall officer-like raan. I
suppose here it might be accounted republican or
mauvais ton in me were I to express my opinion that
he would look better shaven. I once saw the Duchess
of Cambridge and her family, in a private box in Covent
Garden theatre; the Princess Augusta of Cambridge
(lately married to a Duke of the great Gerraan family)
is embonpoint and good-humoured looking. It is
seldom Royalty is seen in the national theatres; why
the Opera House is preferred I cannot presume to say
— its amusements are (undeniably I think) raore sen
sual than intellectual, and therefore of a grosser nature.
The royal party, when I saw them, seemed to enjoy
themselves much, for they laughed very heartily. This
is not always, indeed not often the case, with your
elegant aristocrats; for in public places it is common
to see them, really or affectedly, listless and indifferent,
hardly to deign a passing notice of the amusement they

370 LETTERS FROM
have asserabled to witness. I have known tbeir, not
sotto voce, conversation mar the enjoyment of those
near them, but this demeanour seems to be considered
the very acme of refinement; it is indeed refinement
pushed up to rudeness; something on the same prin
ciple, I might be told, as becoming "dark with excessive
bright"- — coarse with excessive fine. These may be
occasionally tbe manners of lords — they are never those
of gentlemen.
The " beau" of a former age is no more; some of
tbem must have been magnificent creatures — coxcombs
on so large a scale. Is it not in the " Spectator" there
is mention of a hero of this class, who called for his
tea by beat of drum, and for his shaving water by
so And of trumpet? How agreeable a neighbour!
I mentioned to you in a former letter, I think, how
dinners, or rather dinners in royal palaces, were chro
nicled. I have often wondered that it does not please
Her Majesty to command to her dinner-table (for it is
called a command) those whose attainments in literature,
art, and science, give lustre to her reign; their con
versation, whether playful or profound in its tone, must
have a perfectly magic charm for a highly-educated
circle. I remeraber once to have seen the name of
Mr. Rogers and once that of Mr. Hallam, as Her
Majesty's guests; and 1 ara told a similar honour was
once conferred upon Sir Lytton Bulwer, but these seem
only to prove the exceptions. If etiquette restrict the
society in the Palace to mere rank and office, how

AN A3IERICAN LADV. 371
absurd, how unworthy of a rational being's regard, must
be an etiquette that denies to the Queen such choice,
such pure intellectual gratifications.
Often in this country, when I have expressed sur
prise at what seemed to me strange or uncalled-for
about a Court, or even in Parliament and public places,
I have been told, " 0 ! but it's the etiquette — etiquette
prevents its being otherwise." No more was to be said.
I was silenced, as is often the case, but not convinced.
The matter might be agreeable to the rules of etiquette,
but I felt not in accordance with those of common
sense and reason, and I thought it pity a French word
should be in their way; that etiquette is often indis
pensable in private, and much more in public, society
it were absurd to deny; but, like many other things
necessary in society — speech for instance, it may be
and is carried to wasteful and ridiculous excess.
The Temperance Societies here had processions,
simUar I imagine to those in American cities, on Whit-
Monday. I can understand why in a society, formed
to promote habits of teraperance, the members must
frequently meet and have rules and regulations and
proper officers, and be amenable to the ancient sage
caUed Discipline. I can understand also that it may
be proper to have badges or insignia which, as a mark
of disgrace, must be taken from those delinquents for
whom alcohol has proved too powerful in its temptation
or effects; but the utility of those processions I can
not understand. Is it that now-a-days people cannot

372 LETTERS FROM
do what they consider right without making a fuss
about it — a public one too? Or is it a necessity of
huraan nature that, one stimulant abandoned, another
must be adopted; that display with music, banners,
and ribbons, must replace the excitement of convi
viality ?
I wonder what Boswell would have thought of these
Associations. Would he have admired them as hp
did Johnson, when that philosopher formed a sort
of Temperance Society in his own person? Boswell
admits that, being a lover of wine, he was curious to hear
whatever was reraarkable concerning drinking, and so
he might be curious about the results of water-drink
ing — that is, in other people. I reraember once in
New York — it was at Mr,  's in Hudson Square —
hearing our host call Boswella milk-and-water gentleman
(as to his mental attributes of course, not in his earthly
beverage); another pronounced hira more water than
milk, I thought both remarks far too severe; indeed,
I know no biographer to whom the world has been so
much indebted as to Jaraes Boswell.
1 remeraber seeing in tbe street (I was in a carriage
at the time) just before the Temperance procession
appeared, a fire-engine with its two fine horses tearing
along at a frantic pace: I thought if the vehicle had
come rather suddenly araid the decorated corps march
ing soberly along, how it would have scattered them,
displaced the ranks and broke the good meeting; those
fire-engineers (if I may call them so) do gallop on as if

AN AMERICAN LADY. 373
London streets were proper for chariot- races — there is
no daUying with them — no halting —
¦¦ See ! there they come racing and tearing,
All the street with loud voices is fiU'd ;
Oh! it's only the firemen a-swearing
.At a man they've run over and kiU'd!"
Temperance societies in Ireland count their members
by thousands; Father Mathew has WTOught miracles
among them. I am told, indeed, that scoffers have
said the Hibernian peasantry actually believe the
good father to be a saint, and to have powers surpass
ing those of mere mortality — if it be so, it is a rare
and curious instance of superstition directed to most
blessed uses.
Any one expecting to find in England modern pubhc
works impressive from their magnitude, may at firsi
feel disappointed; yet they exist on all sides, but are
so mixed up with every-day uses that they become
regarded as things of every day: they do not "dwell
apart," hke the Pyramids, for instance, which address
tliemselves immediately to the eye, and have no con
nexion with the work-a-day world to blend them with
its httlenesses. The great modern works in England
are docks, bridg'es, and railroads; railroads can only be
seen in portions, in minute detaUs, while the Pyraraid
of Cheops is beheld at once and in completeness— and
which is the greater work? a raUway of two or three
hundred miles, or that "labour of an age in pUed
stones" — that monument of industry iU applied? I

374 LETTERS FROM
wonder some of the travelling English antiquaries,
leaving tbe well-trodden European path, do not resort
to the New World — the enthusiastic in pyramids would
find Cheops out-cheopped, and might discover other
architectural marvels. I once heard Mr.  , who
has inspected both, declare that the base of a great
pyramid (I forget its name, and it is probably unspell-
able), east of Cbolula, in Mexico, was, from actual
mensuration, about twice that of the great Egyptian
one. I bave jumped off at a tangent to Africa and America
— " revenons a nos moutons," the English and their
works. There is nothing in London at all comparable
to the Croton Aqueduct. The London water-works
are no doubt very surprising; but there is nothing to
be seen, the water slinks into the city, as it were, in
a surreptitious manner. Public fountains arc almost
unknown — the few there are being so paltry that a
Frenchman pitied the water degraded to tbeir use!
He was probably fresh from Versailles. In some dis
tricts there are complaints of the badness of the water,
that it is unfit for any purposes but those of cooking
or washing; this might have been remedied long ago
did not so many believe that water could be wanted for
no other purposes.
I forgot to tell you that Mrs. Guy's soiree was
crowded; the arrangements differed little from what
we have seen in similar parties in New York. I left
early, for the display of tasteless wealth is always tire-

AX AMERICAN LADY.

some. There were two Scottish ladies at the soiree —
a recent arri\'al — one ^•e^y tall and the other very short,
whom Mrs. Guy introduced to some of her lady-guests,
and soon after the ceremony whispered an intimation
that they were " so literary." The worthy hostess
looked proud and patronising as she advanced for the
purpose of introduction, with a lady in each hand,
"the blue aboveHtend the blue below;" the ladies
themselves seemed half-ashamed of being thus lionised.
Mr. Guy has now many English friends; one in
especial he has grappled to his soul with hooks of
congenial sympathies and tastes: this gentleman is a
Mr. S., so rich, his friend avers, that "he could not
count his money in dollars from last fall to next cen
tury." The gentleman is also a stout gentleman, ver^
tightly packed (to the credit of valet or taUor, or bothf
in very handsome attire; he eschews such English as
men write in quarterly reriews. " Not eggsactually,"
he says, and says it with a look of humour, where
an ordinary man might say, "not exactly;" but why
repeat these abstrusities to a distant young lady?
Imagine them then, dear Juha, for they come not
within my powers of panegyric. Mr. S. regretted, or
rather insinuated a regret, of his most delicate organi
sation — his feebleness of health; he is but the shadow
he declares, on the authority of his physician, of what
he was: poor man, very much of a shadow he presents.
Two or three gentlemen at this soiree were talking
of Macaulay's Lays of Ancient Rome, which they
praised greatly.

376 LETTERS FROM
" A raost difficult form of composition," said Dr. R.,
"for there is no room in it for weak lines, or even weak
words; the ballad is a short effort, but the strength
required to make it must not be a moment relaxed. I
would far rather be tasked to write a poem like The
Deserted Village, than a song like Chevy Chase."
In Mr. Macaulay's work (I wish he would write
Lays of Ancient Britain) ; the poenai telling
" How well Horatius kept the bridge.
In the brave days of old."
seemed most admired by Dr. R. and his friend.
Emma WUderton told me afterwards, that Mr. Guy
and his Pythias walked to a part of the room where she
was seated, and were laughing at the taste and criticism
I have raentioned. " So low," Mr. S  said, " about
fcorae stiff fellow, eh, ha! I say, seeraeringly, eh! who
kept a toll-bridge — Putney, perhaps, as it was in the
old times, eh, I say, ha!"
These gentlemen said never a word whilst the con
versation was carried on. I think there is an instinct
in dunces, which prevents their speaking when it is not
safe; something like that which confines the owl to its
shelter to avoid exposure in the sunshine, or prevents
an ass walking into a flower garden.
That I detail to you more foolish than wise sayings
is easily accounted for, I hear more; and the same
may be said, I fancy, of most general society in most
countries; the silly are far greater, numerically, than
the sage. In England, I do think it is especially

AX AMERICAX LADY, 377
SO, because money is permitted to exonerate its pos
sessors (an' it so please them) from all trouble in the
acquisition of wisdom or learning — it is acknowledged
on aU hands to be better than either. Well, the Eng
lish are a free people, and have a right to please them
selves in the matter: to be sure the world laughs at
them; but as their own affluences might say, while they
chinked their London gold; " Let them laugh — let all
otber people laugh as loud and as long as they please
—we can shew them plenty to laugh at — we can afford
it." The poor albeit find this idolatry, this wealth-
worship, no laughing matter.
I meant to have told you before that I sometimes
half feel as if I ought — only I should be so puzzled bow
to offer an apology to you — as if I ought to apologise,
for sometimes teUing you of customs or institutions iiv^
this couiltry, which may be found in almost the same
state with us. I do it to let you see it is so; one may
he pririleged in a friendly letter, but I can hardly un
derstand why some ponderous authors in erudite works
undergo much toU and pains (to say nothing of exposing
the reader to them) in detailing as characteristics of
the United States many fashions and practices which a
very little inquiry would have shewn existed in the
same condition of life in their own land — to be sure
without these auxiliary topics, the work might not have
had its full complement of pages.
Mr, and Mrs. Guy start for Edinburgh to-raorrow
or the following day. Mr. Guy is the better reconciled
R 2

378 LETTERS FROM
to this change of "location," as his esteemed Mr . S
has left town for Paris, in order to consult some
eminent physician there; he was recommended to do
so by a gentleraan just returned from a continental
tour, whom be raet at a club in Pall Mall. "A
famous French doctor," the Pythias said, "who beat
everything and everybody." I hope his wife, if he
have one, is not included. Tbis^shadow of a wit,
according to Mr. Guy's account, was in such a hurry
to tempt the perils of the Straits from Dover to Calais,
that time hardly sufficed to say adieu to the friend
of his soul, " And he was left lamenting.'' Ever, etc.

AX AMERICAX L\DY. 379

LETTER XXXVII.

LAW  DELAYS — ENGLISH CHARACTERISTICS  CHARITY — EDUCATION
 US AMIABILITY  RUIN — FOREIGN GRIEVANCES  REFINEMENT 
LADIES OF ENGLAND  CONCLUSION.

Dearest Julia, London,  1843.
MoLiERE had not, I believe, the prejudices
against lawyers which he entertained towards the men
of medicine, whose art, according to the satirical rogue,
" consisted in pompous bombast, or a plausible babble
which gave words for reasons" — (a custom still preva
lent, especially among politicians), — " and promises for
effects" — (a custom in hke manner more prevalent
stUl), — but the great dramatist raakes one of his
characters exclaim, "la seule pensee d'un proces seroit
capable de me faire fuir jusqu'aux Indes." I can well
sympathise in this sentiment: that is, were a flight
to Hindostan or another lawsuit to be the alternative,
I think I should prefer the shores of the Ganges to the
Courts at Westminster.
It is remarkable that amehorations in the civil laws
of this country, or rather in tbeir administration, should
be so tardy. I presume it is to be accounted for from

.380 LETTERS FROM
the fact, which is stated on right good authority, with
experience to back it, that lawyers never believe any
thing which is customary to be ridiculous or unnecessary
— whilst we have it on equally good authority, that too
raany lawyers are also law-makers. Hence I suppose
all these delays — delays tiresome and unintelligible,
as if the judges still foUowed the king's person to
administer the law; where was the king in person,
there was the court of law, now and then, it raight be,
of justice. Do you remember how Mrs. Ritever, who
had never left her father's and husband's estates in
South Carolina, sturdUy expressed her belief that it was
impossible things could go on properly in any country
without a multitude of negroes ? The principle is that
of the lawyers here, they deem it " impossible" the
law can exist properly without its raultitude of procras
tinations and senilities. Improvements have certainly
been effected, and to what extent ? As if people should
cleverly dam a portion of one side of a river which not
unfrequently and raost prejudicially overflowed both its
banks throughout its course. Needless delay is rank
injustice; — to talk of the necessity of delay is often
absolute nonsense. Napoleon dwelt upon the " neces
sity" of sacrificing a few tens of thousands of lives
annually. Necessity is too coramonly the plea when
reason exists not.
The more I have seen of this country — I raust tell
it you in my last letter — the more I am convinced I
have described it truly. That selfishness is the bane

AN AMERICAN LADY. 381.
of the Englishman's character generally is, I think,
undeniable — he lives for little but himself, — whilst
equally undeniable is it that this very selfishness leads
to great results. When men have overweening notions
of their individual superiority, it is common and natural
for them to endeavour to act up to their pretensions;—
the selfishness which makes them cold, unamiable, and
uncharitable, little susceptible of the softer affections,
and derisive of rirtue and genius in others (because
loath to admit an inferiority in themselves), makes
them also bold, persevering, and wary, when personal
advantages are to be acquired; steadily bent upon
attaining wealth, power, and station, not so much from
ambition, but because they believe such attainments
no more than the proper meeds of their transcendent
merits. Indeed, this feeling firmly implanted may be
worked upon so as to aceomphsh almost anything when
indiridual aggrandisement is expected to follow. How
could soldiers fail, if each in his secret soul thought
himself a Welhngton (that is, had he his deserts), and
if his actions were the fruits of his beUef? Tbe
American's self-pride is of a nobler cast, for it is more
of his country, her glory, and her prowess.
Of the superior intelligence of the mass in America
there can be no doubt, for the care bestowed upon
general education with the universality and cheapness of
books and newspapers, must ensure it; it is proved more
over by the fact, that whilst almost all Americans fami-
liariy understand almost aU English questions, literary or

382 LETTERS FROM
political; the English (I speak of the body of the people)
understand the nature of the politics and literature of
the United States as thoroughly as they do those of the
Mountaineers of the Moon. I find it is not very un
common in this country to republish American books,
or magazine articles, as original, disguising them gene
rally with the false complexions of new titles, etc. In
American reprints, the English writer at least enjoys
his name and fame; and it cannot be otherwise, for au
"appropriation" would soon be detected and exposed,
Soraetiraes the reputation of a British author bas been
first established in America (Carlyle and Marryat are
instances), and echoed back to the parent country.
" The child," says Wordsworth, " is father to the man;"
in these instances his preceptor also.
I was soon disabused, when I came to reside in Eng
land, of the notion that they were a charitable people.
Praise cannot be sufficiently rendered to the compara
tive few who are so; but tbe mass of the English, of
the mere rich especially, are not charitable. Look, it
raay be urged, at their hospitals; tbeir raissions; their
institutions,— look at the many societies, with their
annual feasts benevolently eaten by the rich, to relieve
the poor. Yes, but look at their means. That
which is done for charity's sake might be truly wonder
ful in Sweden, but here it is shamelessly little. How
constantly do tbe "respectable" citizens of London
excuse themselves from attending to anything bene
ficial to the poor, because, forsooth, they have not time

AX AMERICAN LADV. 383
— important business may not be neglected; and so
that important business is neglected. I am inclined to
believe that these people really persuade themselves
(absurd and preposterous as it is) that they have uot
time to amend the condition of the poor, because they
so often shew they have not leisure to be good or wise.
Did bags of useless gold for pillows render a death-bed
easier, their conduct might be commendable.
Too great praise, I was saying, cannot be given to
tbe small class who labour on untiringly and undaunt-
edl}', in a manner almost to redeem tbeir country's
dishonour — for its insensibility to the wants of the poor
is dishonour, — who struggle on eloquently and energe
tically, to make England more Christian, to subdue the
monsters ignorance and indigence; but when they are
not supported by the mass, their efforts avail httle.
Were there really, and throughout the kingdom, a desire
to benefit the poor, it would soon in a representative
government constrain the executive as the first step
to adopt measures for general, why not say universal,
instruction. But as this feeling exists not, Parliaraent
is satisfied with trying ever and anon a few experiments
in education. The Lords Spiritual and Temporal, the
Commons' House of Parliament, the Most Honourable
the Privy Council, the Right Honourable the Secretaries
of State, experimentalising pettUy in education, and
that hke Corporation wise-acres in some small town,
but more bunghngly! — Ho! ye who are subtUe in
caricature ! 0 keen-witted sirs of the London Charivari !
0 poignant H.B. ! where are your pencils?

384 LETTERS FROM
I accounted it a wholesome symptom when the Impe
rial Parliaments took to enactments about dogs; it
looked like going back to first principles: from sound
canine, British statesmen happily raay advance to suc
cessful pauper, legislation. Heaven speed the day!
Suppose it be admitted that ignorance and penury in
some form must exist — what then ? Fevers and agues
must exist, but men take means, and timely means, to
remedy them; and with such success, that the bodily
ague is alraost unknown in England, whilst the ague of
ignorance paralyzes the well-being of the land. Why
this disinclination to educate the poor, to elevate them
from the rank of inferior animals, what is its cause ?
Selfishness. The English selfishness forbids it, and for
two reasons: to impart tuition to so raany might by
some almost imperceptible amount diminish the hoards
of the rich man; and by making the labouring classes
more intelligent, his own knowledge, eloquence, and
wit, would be less conspicuous — he would not be so
very an oracle;— suicidal to his self-love, to the sacred
ness of his self-conceit, therefore would it be to advance
into intellectual beings the mere hewers of wood and
drawers of water, — and suicide is sinful! Great as
might be the benefit to the lower and lowest classes
from careful teaching, as great a boon would the
general extension of knowledge be to the middle classes,
for they would then be compelled, in order to maintain
the respect to which they hold themselves entitled, to
be more intelligent, more unprejudiced, better read,
and better mannered than they are. Talk of charity

AN AMERICAX LADY. 385
as an attribute of the opulent English people — talk of
their caring for the poor! Verily as one of old affected
to care, and surely even in this precedent-loving country
he would not be advanced as an example. Charity, care
for the poor in England as a nation — how duly record
them? I know but one meet way —
" Write the characters in dust.
Stamp them on the nmning stream,
Print them on the moon's pale beam,"
To remove poverty may be far more difficult than to
dispel ignorance, but poverty strikes deepest root araidst
ignorance as its most congenial soU, and that removed,
the spread of poverty is checked at once; it may grow
then, it must abound now. Then could the very,
very many possessors of enormous wealth be induced to
venture upon a prudent and judicious expenditure of a
portion of it, how much good raight be effected. It is
true no government has or can bave a right to compel
indiriduals to use their riches otherwise than they will,
but is there no moral obligation? and would not a
better state of things, a society further advanced in
inteUigence and Christian wisdom, compel such men
by its pure scorn of their selfish paltriness, to pursue a
course less opposed to the dictates of reason and the
commands of God?
In America how much has been done for education,
as weU as in many poor countries, even in those where
the blessings of freedom are far less known than in
Great Britain— how easy would it be then for tbe richest
people in the world to go and do likewise ! But as I

.386 LETTERS FROM
have shewn you, the Englishman's selfishness restrains
him, so he resorts to his pet fallacy of "impossible."
Albeit once a year, or let me be just, sometimes twice, he
fills his mouth after the good things of a charity banquet
with fine phrases of " the benevolence and phUanthropy
of this great city — of this mighty erapire," and sits down
in rapturous adrairation of the institution of which
he considers hiraself an important part. Philanthropy !
Benevolence ! Brave words, like those the Ancient spoke
at the bridge, and with as rauch raeaning in them.
It is curious to observe with how little inquiry foreigners
conclude that the English are a charitable people ; the
evidence, tbe raany institutions supported by voluntary
benevolence. These actually prove the exceptions. The
very fact that institutions (especially those of a religious
and scholastic nature) must be //^MS provided, shews that
there is not in the people at large a body of kindliness
and charity sufficient to influence tbe legislature to
make permanent provision for these wants of the jftor.
The English have a ready way to account for any
depreciation of their excellences — prejudice, always pre
judice, and a foreigner's misunderstanding. There was
murder once committed on tbe frontiers of Louisiana;
the murderer, to get rid of the disagreeable inculpation,
coolly declared — " It all arose from ignorance of the
use of the fire-arms —they had misunderstood the nature
of those particular pistols !" And thus every foreigner
misunderstands the nature of the British character;
this seems almost an universal belief in England, more
so than in America, far more so; and the English seem

AX AMEKICAN LADY. 387
to connect another article of faith with it — to wit, that
they never, or very rarely, misunderstand the character
of the people of other countries; the very coolness
raanifested upon this subject shews how deeply-rooted
is the belief, — it is treated as if an established truism,
a thing beyond dispute — irrefragable !
I gladly turn to a more favourable view of the Eng
hsh ; brave are they, as "the four quarters of the world
can testify; handsome; enterprising; learned in all
arts and sciences; true to then- words; just in their
dealings; exemplary, with some few exceptions, in
domestic rirtues; daunted by no difficulties; with a
spirit that rarely blenches, and a patience and endur
ance that seldom weary. Travellers have said — that is,
some travellers — (I will not now inquire how truly)
that the Americans are not an amiable people. If we
admit, just for the sake of argument, that it is so, un
amiabihty must be hereditary; the Americans have had
it from tbeir forefathers, whose English descendants
possess it now; but greater pains bave apparently been
taken to preserve it in this country — to prevent its
being found degenerate, when
" From sire to son with pious zeal bequeath'd,"
for it certainly is in greater perfection here than with
us, though over-rated, I think, in both communities,
eis- and trans- atlantic.
Believe a great many French, and a few American
and even English scribes, and ruin raenaces Great
Britain: ruin — in what is it raanifest? Are her riches

388 LETTERS FROM
diminished? are her soldiers and sailors less courage
ous? her manufacturers less skilful? her merchants
less sagacious? her daughters less virtuous? — No. I
can see no danger whatever to the Britannic empire —
none, that is, from without. Internal dangers, it may
not be questioned, exist; but they have long existed
(some diseases are co-existent with a long life), and
they may be found in the same state for ages yet to
come; the energy of the British character makes the
country prosperous in spite of these perils within it.
A quarter, nay, a tithe of the vigour expended in one
single year by the English, to accumulate wealth for
no purpose but personal pride in it, would suffice to
lay the foundations of a system in which those evils
would have small preponderance, — but they will not.
I do not think that abstract love of country flourishes
in England ; and it may be true that were any great
demand made upon the virtue, the patriotism, the self-
denial oithe people, the utmost danger to the state might
be apprehended: for, instead of these qualities, there
might be found in the ranks of the prosperous, the
curse of prosperity, heartlessness; in the raass of the
middle classes, deep-rooted and most robust selfishness;
and in the poor, ignorance and its constant comrade
recklessness. But this is to put a very extreme case.
Of the fondness of the English for foreign griev
ances one should not speak too severely; it may be
but tbe sort of feeling honest Rip Van Winkle had,
for Rip was fond of attending to anybody's business
rather than his own. To be sure one cannot but

AN AMERICAN LADY. 389
wonder that so littie is thought of tbe cry throughout
the kingdom, for more churches, schools, and hospitals;
and so much of the wants of rather dubious people,
who dwell or roam by the Nile or the Niger, — it may
be thought strange, I say, that they who wish to
instruct the natives of Nubia, may not care to teach
the dwellers in Lancashire ; but it may be contended
also, that Nubia is, or should be, the better for them,
and Lancashire can be none the worse. The Americans
have their foreign schools and missions; but they care,
and amply, for home instruction first. I would not be
thought anxious to censure too freely the sometimes
rather theatrical displays in Exeter Hall touching these
foreign matters. Mr. N. accounts for them by saying
that there is here (so with us) a large class of young
ladies who conscientiously abjure as sinful the pleasures
ofthe baU-room or the theatre; and as it really appears
a necessity of our nature to have some enjoyment
or excitement, Exeter Hall serves occasionally for an
assembly-room and a stage. We must not too search-
ingly inquire "What's in a name?"
The English contend that there is not in tbe United
States a refinement of manners equal to their own —
there may not be the parade of it. The English bow
and walk differently (they say, more gracefully), they
simper and small-talk more; and though they may
flatter ladies more, they do not prize them so much,
whUst the treatment of our sex is the best touchstone
of real refinement and civilisation. I cannot conceive
anything more absurd, or bolder in its absurdity, than

390 LETTERS FROM
for travellers to assert, whilst they admitted the irre
proachable character of American ladies, that they
exercised httle influence upon society! As well say
there was much sunshine in the State of Georgia, but
it had little effect upon the produce of the earth. I
confess I have very considerable doubts of this refine
ment of manners in English gentleraen, and for this
plain reason — it is not rooted in them, it is not mani
fested when they are not under conventional restraint.
They must be polite and forbearing in ladies' society;
but see the same gentlemen strolling along the fash
ionable streets, and which of them will refrain from
staring audaciously at every stranger lady he meets,
no matter who she may be; did any one of tbe ladies of
Queen Victoria's Court venture to walk out unattended,
she would be subjected to this vulgar persecution.
This is one reason why the use of carriages of all kinds
is so very frequent, — ladies cannot walk forth alone.
I have heard it stated, "0 these are chiefly the
manners of young gentlemen; tbey may learn better
as tbey grow older." Is it not rather a novelty in
argument to advance youth as an excuse for arrogant
impropriety? Where an Araerican gentleraan would
quietly step aside to allow a lady of any condition in
life to pass without annoyance, an English gentleman
will loiter to stare pertinaciously and to his full satis
faction, — her dissatisfaction is nothing cared about.
Which is the best mannered? To say that they are
not English gentlemen who act thus is equivalent^to
saying there is hardly an English gentieman in the

AN AMERICAN LADY. 391
streets of London, — even in the streets where from the
number of club-houses or other causes they most do
congregate. Drawing-room manners seera to be ac
counted aU sufficient for a London gentleman; he is
emancipated from their thraldom when he exchanges
the wax-light for the open air.
Another doctrine (if I may call it so) passes for
orthodox — that a royal court and a titled aristocracy
tend to the refinement of all classes down to the lowest
— that their refinement influences all manner of men.
This I think is one of the many dogmas here —
"whose right
Suits not iu native colours with the truth."
At any rate there seems but the horn of a dilerama
for those who have faith in this English credence. The
lowest classes in this kingdom are coarse, brutal, and
stupid beyond those of the United States, so that either
it is not in the nature of things that this vaunted
refinement should duly reach tbe poorest plebeians, or
(more probably) that it exists not in vigour enough to
do so. I think therefore that this much-extolled attri
bute of British aristocracy is but conventional gentility,
a mere surface of elegance; because consistent refine
ment is not shewn in the gentlemen's raanners, whilst
their favourite place of amusement is often remarkable
for the opposite of true refinement, — it yields but a
vulgar joy.
I have said little of the ladies of England; perhaps
a gentleman would have written far more of them and
less of the rougher sex. It is difficult to describe

392 LETTERS FROM AN AMERICAN LADY.
when no striking characteristics present themselves.
The ladies are elegant, beautiful, and good; and that
said, what remains ? Their influence upon society is
most beneficial; their beauty is somewhat fuller in its
character than with us; perhaps it would be more cor
rect to say they are less slim in form and less deli
cate in feature (as a rule), than are American ladies.
I have no hesitation in saying they are not selfish like
the men, — ^indeed I think it is not in woman's nature
to be so. It may be said selfishness, like disease, is
everywhere — why dwell upon its prevalence in English
men?, Because among the English this quality presents
a wondrous freedom from alloy not found elsewhere;
it has been purged from all deteriorating adjuncts — it
is the very purity of selfishness.
:(: >|< if: * >|! !|«
And now to bid farewells. I do believe that if I
lived to be old and doting, if I forgot in the evening
what happened in the morning, I should stUl remember
the kindness I have experienced in England; it would
form a bright green spot in memory's waste, nay, in
memory's garden. In all human probabihty I shall
never see these friends again. One of the most pitiful
lines I ever read is the exclamation of fierce Roderick
Dhu—
" It is the last time — 'tis the last."
THB END.

London l Manning anil Mason, Printers, Ivy-lane, Patcrnoster-row.

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