Vale University Library 11 1" 1 11 1 mIIi IBIdl 39002024345960 Wyoming historical society. Miscellanies. 1919. 190 YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY *937 WYOMING HISTORICAL SOCIETY MISCELLANIES 1919 Laramie Wyoming: The Laramie Republican Company Printers and Binders 1919 FOREWORD The following miscellaneous articles have been selected from the archives of the Wyoming Historical Society and have been printed in order that the information contained therein may -be more accessible to the public. The article by Mr. W. E. Chaplin is the most comprehensive and authoritative history of the early Wyoming newspapers which has been written. Agnes R. Wright, Custodian. CONTENTS Some of the Early Newspapers of Wyoming. Wheatland Colony. The True Story of the Lost Cabin Mines. Copy of Letter Written by S. V. Miller From Salem, Ore gon, Nov. 24, 1852. The Texas Trail. Letter Written for the Cheyenne Industrial Club by Mr. Hiram B. Kelly. SOME OF THE EARLY NEWSPAPERS OF WYOMING BY W. E. CHAPLIN. Because of the lack of positive information relating to many of the early newspapers of the state a sketch must necessarily be inaccurate and incomplete in some particulars. Pioneers in the business were men of strong character and dignified their profes sion. Small population and magnificent distances made their financial lot difficult, but they did not complain and followed the usual bent of the small town purveyer of news in giving the reader more than warranted by the patronage. Up to this time ( 1918) no Wyoming newspaper man has made a fortune in the business. A few have accumulated a small compentence and a number have prospered, but not a single one has reached the $100,000 mark. Those who attained the greatest fame died without leaving wealth made from their business to their dependents. Bill Nye was in debt when he left the state. Dr. Hay ford was almost penniless when he died and Col. E. A. Slack made the small competence he left his family from other sources than his life work. Bill Bar low (M. C. Barrow) probably made more ready cash out of his . newspaper work than the others mentioned, but he was a spend thrift and left only a small sum to his heirs. To make money in the newspaper business one must be where there is opportunity for large circulation. . In Wyoming the average newspaper man can view the limits of his business from the roof of his county court house. This condition was of course decidedly more pro nounced in the days of the pioneer. THE CHEYENNE DAILY LEADER. edited and published by Nathan A. Baker, was the first paper pub lished in Wyoming. Mr. Baker is still living, his residence, being Denver, Colo. The first issue of his paper was given to the world on September 19, 1867. It was a four-pfige folio, four columns to the page, and was printed one page at a time on a Gordon job press. It was sold for 25 cents per copy. It entered into a frank discussion of all the topics of the day, including the territorial establishment of Wyoming, official appointments, woman suffrage, etc. It had such events as lynchings, Indian massacres in the out skirts of the city and the work of the vigilantes to record. In 1876, 8 WYOMING HISTORICAL SOCIETY it was a sufferer by the great fire in Cheyenne and the proprietor was compelled by the serious loss to concentrate to some extent his printing business. After publishing the Leader successfully for a period of two and one-half years he Sold it to Major Herman Glafcke. He returned to Denver, from whence he came to'Chey- enne, in 1872 and has been engaged in stock business, farming and real estate. He is now retired. Major Glafcke conducted the Leader as a republican paper for many years, selling it in the eighties to a couple of Pennsyl vania gentlemen named Morrow and Sullivan. Thev brought with them from the Quaker state to act as editor, John C. Baird, who became prominent as an attorney. During this time the majority ownership in the paper was held by Hon. W. C. Irvine, a nephew of Mr. Morrow. After the transfer from Major Glafcke it Was independent in politics until one morning without the knowledge or consent of the majority owner, it announced its fealty to the democratic party. When this came to the knowledge of Mr. Irvine, he at once proceeded to the office and his interview decided the management to again take up political neutrality. Morrow and Sullivan continued the publication of the Leader till 1890, when it passed into the hands of John F. Carroll and Joseph A. Breckons. Under this management it Occupied a small building on the alley just north of the Carey block. Carroll was a keen, able writer, but had no means and little capacity for busi ness. Breckons had a nose for news and looked after the business end of the establishment. It was unprofitable to the owners and after some five or six years of struggle they sold out to Col. E. A. Slack, at that time the proprietor of the Cheyenne Sun, who merged it into the Sun-Leader. Carroll and Breckons had run the Leader as a democratic organ and it had been hoped by the editor that when the democratic party came into power in 1893 that he would be given the position of receiver of the land office at Cheyenne, which would have been a material aid in keeping the Leader from sinking. The office was given to another, who%vas entirely undeserving, and Carroll left the state never to resume his citizenship here. He became well known as the editor of the Den ver Post prior to the present management and subsequently went to Colorado Springs, where he edited a leading paper. From Colo rado he changed to Portland, Oregon, where he became the editor of the Evening Telegram, dying in 1917. He was perhaps the best political writer that ever wielded a pen in Wyoming Col. Slack conducted the hyphenated paper for some vears and then dropped the "Sun" choosing to retain the name that was the pioneer. In 1904 he sold the paper to his son-in-law Wallace C. Bond, and Harry Clark, who conducted it until about 1006 when it was sold to a syndicate of democrats, who elected I s' Bartlett as editor. In turti it was a couple of years later trans MISCELLANIES, 1919 9 f erred to another democratic management with W. S. Edmiston as the controlling spirit. Prior to the campaign of 1912 Edmiston sold his interests to J. R. Carpenter, Alexander Hastie, J. B. Ken- drick, John E. Osborne and others. Hastie was made editor and continued in. that position till illness caused him to resign. He was succeeded by Burke H. Sinclair and shortly afterward passed to his reward. Since that time the editorial management has changed frequently. At present (March, 1918) it is edited by Meredith Davis and the business manager is E. A. Swezea. And so the pio neer paper, after many changes politically and constant reverses financially, still lives, bringing the news fresh each morning to many readers. THE FRONTIER INDEX. Perhaps the greatest distinction attached to the Frontier Index, Laramie's first paper, was the fact that it was the pioneer. It was published in a log building at. the corner of Second and Gar field streets, the site now being occupied by the four-story brick structure of the W. H. Holliday Company. It was a three-column, four-page paper and carried much advertising for its size. The publishers were Freeman & Co. Amone the advertisements ap pears that of the Childs House, corner First and South C. streets, V. Baker, proprietor. Baker is still living, being a resident . of Cheyenne. The professional card of Dr. J. H. Finfrock also ap pears. He "passed to his reward some years since, but his son W. E. Finfrock, is still residing in Laramie. To prove that Laramie was right on the frontier at that time it is onlv necessary to quote a news item from the Index of July 21, 1868: ' "A Big Haul — On Saturday the Indians ran off from near Carbon station, eighty miles west of here, 104 head of mules and horses belonging to Messrs. J. M. and Ed. Creighton. Mr. James Creighton had been stopping at the Frontier house, in this city, for several days prior, and upon receipt of the telegram announcing the disaster, he took the cars, to start with his herders in pursuit of the red devils, who are headed by white men, and they in turn en couraged and outfitted by the Indian treaty men. A posse of troops couldn't get ready to start on such a chase in less than a week, and then would never find a fresh track. The herders started in pursuit the day of the stampede, but coming upon a bad looking canyon with camp fire in it, they turned back, and after getting reinforcements, started out a second time, since which they have not been heard from." Another item of interest: "Five hundred cases of sunstroke in New York City in the last few days, and as many more in other hot parts of the states. Thank the Gods, ve Laramieites, for our delightful breezes." There was some controversy over the weather in those days, too. The Index of July 21, 1868, ca>lled the Omaha Herald to ac- XO WYOMING HISTORICAL SOCIETY count as follows: "We wish to inform the Omaha Herald that its report of snow and frost here on the Sth inst is «™?~"s- * ™ weather has been balmy, genial, pleasant and everything ; else ^a person could desire ; cool nights and refreshing noonday showers. It was democratic. in politics, supporting Seymour and Baw In the fall of 1868 the Frontier Index passed on with the railroad to the town of Benton, then located where Fortbtete now stands, and from thence on to Bear River, where it was soon after destroyed by a mob. THE LARAMIE DAILY SENTINEL. May 1, 1869, N. A. Baker, who had previously established the Cheyenne Leader, began at Laramie the publication of the Lara mie Daily Sentinel. James H. Hayford was the editor. Mr Baker continued its publication until May 1, 1870, when he sold his interests therein to J. H. Hayford and J. E. Gates, both of whom were his former employes. It was a bright, newsy sheet and from the start showed every evidence of permanence and being a power in the community. It was republican in politics. During its existence as a daily the Sentinel waged some bitter political battles, Editor Hayford being an exceedingly trenchant writer. A more extended sketch of this forcible newspaper character is given elsewhere. From 1876 to 1879, when the daily issue was suspended, Bill Nye was employed as city editor. It was while he was performing this work, that he attained a. reputation _as a humorous writer. In March, 1895, its publication was given up entirely. James E. Gates, the junior partner, lived in Laramie many years and then changed his residence to Santa Monica, Cal., where he now makes his home. THE SOUTH PASS NEWS. About the same time that N. A. Baker established the Lara mie Daily Sentinel hcalso began the publication of the South Pass News, South Pass being at that time the county seat of Sweetwater county, South Dakota. He afterward sold this paper to Judge Church Howe and it successively passed into the hands of C. J. Cowles and E. A. Slack. The latter was running it at the time of a fire in South Pass, which destroyed the building in which he was located and a large portion of the material. In December, 1871, Slack removed the material to Laramie, and in company with T. J. Webster, began the publication of, the LARAMIE DAILY INDEPENDENT. Edward A. Slack was the editor. While claiming independ ence politically, it espoused the cause of the National democracy and waged a strong fight against the Territorial administration. MISCELLANIES, 1919 11 On the 21st of March, 1875, T. J. Webster sold his interest to C. W. Bramel and the name of the paper was changed to "The Laramie Daily Sun." It then tqpk up the democratic cause with out reservation. February 22, 1876, E. A. Slack purchased the interest of C. W. Bramel and it was moved to Cheyenne, where, on March 3, 1876, it came out as the "Cheyenne Daily Sun," a republican paper, with Col. Slack wielding the quill. He continued the publication of the Sun until its merger with the Leader in about 1895, mentioned elsewhere, when the Sun ceased to shine forever. While the Sun was being published in Laramie it had at one time in its employ a young man named James Barton Adams who subsequently gained a national reputation as a humorist, working upon and contributing to many of the most notable humorous pub lications of that day. His most important newspaper work was perhaps the editing of the "Postscripts," that appeared for many years on the editorial page of the Denver Post. He wrote a poem ''every day to head that column and many of his verses possessed rare merit. The Carrier's Address of the Laramie Daily Sun, Jan uary 1, 1876, was written by him, and the writer of this sketch was the carrier. It was in verse and an exceedingly good produc tion. Among other accomplishments, Adams was a telegraph oper ator and was for some years in the employ of the Union Pacific railroad company. While acting in that capacity upon one occa sion in the city of Rawlins, he concluded to get married and was strenuously opposed in his matrimonial desires by a brother,- Joseph B. Adams, who happened at that time to be the county clerk of Carbon county, Wyo., and who refused to issue the license. This was no barrier to Brother James. He simply entered the house of his brother after the latter was-asleep, took the4ceys of the clerk's office from his trousers' pocket and entered the court house, where he hunted up the proper record book and issued his own license. Getting married was a confirmed habit with him, and he just couldn't resist the temptation. » THE LARAMIE DAILY CHRONICLE. . Judge Charles W. Bramel was so constituted -that it seemed impossible for him to keep out of the newspaper business. After the removal of the Daily Sun to Cheyenne he cast about and secured an outfit for another paper at Laramie, which he launched as the Laramie Daily Chronicle about May, 1876. Its office was at first located on First street in a small wooden building between Garfield and Custer streets. In a short time it was moved to the second floor of the Henry Wagner building, on Second street. It at once launched into politics and was a strong factor in the cam paign of that year, being a staunch supporter of Tilden and Hen- 12 WYOMING HISTORICAL SOCIETY - dricks and the entire democratic ticket. Tudge Bramel hit hard licks, but always acknowledged that he was unable to throw as much mud as '.Editor 'Hayford of the Sentinel, On one occasion while publishing the Chronicle he became engaged in a controversy with the Rev: Edmonston, at that time pastor of the Methodist church. One article appearing in the paper relating to Edmonston was headed, "A Pestiferous, Pious Politician Pointedly Peppered." The controversy ended in a street fight. Bramel had gone to the telegraph office to get some report and met the preacher at the corner of Second and Thornburg: A wordy war ensued until the divine shook his. fist at the judge and said : "Bramel, I am not afraid of you." The remark was immediately followed by a blow from Bramel's right that sent the minister to the gutter. Upon his arrival at the printing office the judge nonchalantly remarked, "I licked the Methodist preacher while I was out." Judge Bramel was arrested- and fined for a breach of the peace, but the crowd assembled in the justice court immediately paid the fine as a testimonial of their regard and faith in his -in tegrity. The election of 1876 went largely against the democratic party and the county printing was given to the Sentinel. • Judge Bramel decided to retire from the printing business for the time being and sold the paper to three employes, T. J. Webster, A. R. Johnson and Geo. A. Garrett, who continued its publication in Laramie till the spring of 1877, when they moved it to Cheyenne, where it was run under the name of the "Cheyenne Daily Gazette," Judge •Bramel again taking an interest in the paper. Shortly thereafter, finding no field in the capital city, the Gazette was moved to Dead- wood, Webster and Johnson going with the paper and Bramel and Garrett remaining behind. Judge Bramel resumed his law prac tice in Laramie and was for the time satisfied with his newspaper losses. THE LARAMIE DAILY TIMES. , In the fall of 1878 the democrats of Albany county were not satisfied with the drubbing Editor Hayford of the Sentinel gave them and Judge L. D. Pease and Judge C. W. BtameJ. decided to start a daily. If was launched as "The Laramie Daily Times" Jan uary 2, 1879. !t occupied the lower floor of the brick building op posite the Union Pacific depot, still standing". At the same time the Daily Sentinel suspended publication and the daily field was left to the Times. This state of affairs continued throughout the years 1879 and 1880. In the election of 1880 the democrats were so annoying to their adversaries from a newspaper standpoint that the republicans decided that they must have a daily paper of their own. Bill Nye (Edgar Wilson Nye) had been the justice of the peace for the Laramie precinct, the United States commissioner and at the same time was corresponding for several outside papers MISCELLANIES, 1919 13 but this was not considered sufficient to occupy his time, so his friends, and they were legion, decided to back him in a daily paper, THE LARAMIE DAILY BOOMERANG. Judge Jacob B. Blair was one of the chief spokesmen for the new company, but it embraced many of the prominent republicans of Albany county. The incorporators were M. C. Jahren, Robert Marsh, Henry Wagner* A, S. Peabody and J. J. Strode. The stock was divided into one hundred shares of $30 each, an amount sufficient at the present time to purchase one average linotype ma chine. The entire equipment cost about $2,000, leaving $1,000 for a working capital. It occupied the building now owned by the Kern bakery, the second floor, and began business March 11, 1881. The press was a Washington hand press, known to printers as a lemon-squeezer. The purchase of an inadequate press and the renting of an unsuitable building were Nye's first serious news paper mistakes. The office force at the start consisted of Bill Nye, editor and manager ; Robert G. Head, city editor ; George A. Garrett, fore man of job room; W. E. Chaplin, foreman of newspaper; M. C. Barrow, Will Kemmis and J. T. M. Kingsford, printers. C. D. Spalding, at present the very capable cashier of the Albany county National bank, was one of the carrier boys. Four of the crew are still living — Garrett,' Chaplin, Kingsford and Spalding. A year later Nye attempted to rectify the mistakes in the matter of press and building. The paper had been hard pressed for money from the very beginning, business management being foreign to the editor's make up, so he sold the job office to Garrett arid Chaplin in order to get enough money to> buy a Prouty press, which was only a little better than the handpress. At thevsame time he riiOved the office to the second floor of the Haines livery barn, a brick building just completed at the corner of Third and Garfield streets, where the Holliday warehouse now stands. This was another grave mistake, as the fumes from the livery stable below were almost intolerable. It was in ascending to this office that he cheerfully gave the advice to "twist the gray mule's tail and take the elevator." Nye was a lawyer, but he gave Garrett and Chaplin, who were unused to business matters, a bill of sale signed by "Bill Nye," and the sale had not been authorized by the board of directors. Later the board took action confirming the sale. In the winter of 1882-3 Nye conceived the idea of making the Boomerang company a closer corporation and asked G. A. Garrett and W. E. Chaplin to associate themselves with him in the pur chase of a controlling interest in the stock. They agreed to do so. The central plan was to obtain a faster press, suspend the issuance of the daily and give all their effort to the publication of a na tional humorous weekly. At that particular- time, subscriptions 14 WYOMING HISTORICAL SOCIETY were coming in at a rapid rate from all over the nation. Garrett and Chaplin raised the funds required by the agreement and turned them over to Nye, who went among the stockholders and made purchases of stock. He secured many shares and then was suddenly taken ill. He was a very sick man for some time and when able to travel was taken to Greeley, Colo., and thence to his old home in Wisconsin. From Greeley he wrote to W.E. Chaplin relating to business matters and again from River t alls, Wis. The latter letter, because of its significance in the disposition ot Boomerang stock, is given herewith in full : "River Falls, Wis., May i, 1883. "Friend. Chaplin : "I am temporarily laid up again and do not know whether I can ever get back to Laramie, so want to give you and George and Mark a chance at my stock instead of a stranger who has been figuring a little with me. I think if the three of you wished to take it among you, say one-half cash and balance in six months and one year, at 1% per cent interest, you could easily do so. There is but $450 or $500 worth of the stock. As to the balance due me from the company, I think that it can be easily arranged. I hope that no one will be allowed to evade the payment of their debts to the company by claiming that they paid me. Lots of people would do so if permitted. The balance shown on old cash book, less what amounts have been turned in my favor, is the amount due me, whatever that may be, and any man who will make oath or show receipt of mine as to the payment of an account may have the same charged up to me. I shall probably be money out on the paper the best I can do, but I do not want it charged that I am going to beat anybody. I believe that with a reduction of nearly $300 per month on expenses the paper would pay you, George and Mark comfortably with the start it has. Please talk it over privately with George and Jennings and see what you can do. I have said all along that I did not wish to give anyone else control till the old crew had a chance, and I shall stick to it. Would write a letter for publication but have not the strength yet. In fact I have hundreds of dollars of work "on the string" now that I cannot do. Love to all the boys. "Bill Nye." The George and Mark referred to in the letter were George A. Garrett and Mark Jennings. The contents of the letter were chill ing to Garrett and the writer hereof, as we had built rather large air castles relating to a great national humorous weekly, with Nye as the card to bring in the money. Again, our money had been spent in purchasing stock with that end in view and now it was the purpose of Nye to get out and make us assume the burden. MISCELLANIES, 1919 15 We talked it over privately, as he suggested, and reached the con clusion that we would not pay him par for his stock and interest at 18 per cent per annum on deferred payments. As a result of our conference we asked Matthew Dawson, cashier of the Wyom ing National bank, to. offer thirty cents on the dollar for the stock. It had become common knowledge that Nye was not to. re turn to the paper and few bejieved that it could be made to pay without his writings. A large majority of those holding stock went to Dawson and took the thirty cents. Among them was Bill Nye himself, who arrived in the city about a week after the offer was first made. That gave the three of us about 80 per cent of the stock of the company and we decided to continue the paper as a purely local purveyor of news without any pretensions at humor. Nye presented a bill to the company for $3,300 salary he claimed was due him. This was a shock we had not been look ing for, as we had believed that he was paying himself as he paid others connected with the office. In order to determine the mat ter a friendly suit was instituted. Judge L. D. Pease was ap pointed by the court as a commissioner to take testimony and to him was delivered the "cash book" Nye referred to in his letter from River Falls. After the testimony was all in, Judge Pease made a return to the court awarding Nye $213. He stated to the writer, however, that he believed that if a true accounting of all matters pertaining to the paper could have been had, that Nye was indebted to the paper and not the paper to Nye. The bill was paid, and Nye shook the dust of Wyoming from his feet never to re turn to reside therein. . This was in the summer of 1883.. From the day that Nye severed his connection with the paper it began to get on a better financial basis. Expenses were cut and better business methods were introduced. In. 1884 the plant was moved into the second story of the Collins block, corner of Second and Garfield streets. In 1886 Mr. Jennings, who had meanwhile purchased nearly all the stock, sold his interests to T. L. McKee, Charles L. Rauner and W. E. Chaplin. Not long after that purchase the small amount of stock outstanding was picked up and the company was dissolved, the firm of McKee & Chaplin taking over the paper, but disposing of the job office to Charles L. Rauner. In 1890 the plant was sold to Mr. N. E. Corthell, representing a syndicate of democrats, and it has been continued during all the years since, under varying managements, by the same corporation, reorganized as "The Laramie Boomerang Company." In its time the Boomerang Company has employed many able men. Its first city editor, Robert G. Head, was a newspaper man of rare ability, but John Barleycorn was too much for him. He was one of the pioneers who trudged across the Great American - Desert and located in Seattle in the 50's. he had the good for tune to woo and wed one of that shipload of girls that A. S 16 WYOMING HISTORICAL SOCIETY Mercer took frpm Boston to the northwest. To her it was a mis fortune." His jealous temperament and dissolute habits made the divorce court the only possibility. Head was one of the most in dustrious workers that ever handled a pencil. His work was ac curate and excellent. In his service with Nye he furnished the hard facts, Nye the "lurid glare." He fell under the wheels of a freight train near Rock Springs and passed from the earth. Following Head as city editor, M. C. Barrow was promoted from the composing room. Barrow was talented beyond Head in imagery and was a more fluent writer. He held the position till 1884, when a republican paper was established at Rawlins and secured his services. From Rawlins he went to Douglas and established "Bill Barlow's Budget," the pioneer paper of Con verse county. He made of it a paper with something more than a local reputation and prospered beyond his hopes. Several years prior to his death he established a small magazine which he called "Sagebrush Philosophy." It acquired a wide circulation and was the means of bringing in considerable income. Barrow died about 1910. His paper still lives, but "Sagebrush Philosophy," a crea ture purely of his brains, could not survive. W. H. Kent was another city editor of rare ability who held down a desk in the Boomerang office for many years. Only a few years ago he died in Omaha, where he was employed on the Bee. He had read a proof about half through, when the death angel summoned him and" he passed to his reward. He was a prolific writer and a tremendous worker. He was at one time em ployed on the Salt Lake Tribune, when Judge C. C. Goodwin was the editor. THE MISSING LINK. . ,Jn .1882 Charles L. Rauner and Charles F. Wilson established ;a daily paper in Laramie- which they were pleased to call the "Missing Link." It continued as a democratic daily for a few ¦months,- then subsided into a semi-weekly and finally died, Mr Rauner taking oyer the losses, They found that it was unable to. connect the proprietors with the substance of the community hence its death. THE WYOMING TRIBUNE. The Wyoming Tribune, published by W. C. De'ming at Chey enne, is more of a pioneer in Wyoming journalism than the num ber it now carries indicates. It was first established in 1884 by a man named Hobart, who came from Denver. He was backed by F. E. Warren of Cheyenne, who generally had some surplus money for any printer or publisher in distress. , Hobart was also backed to spmedegree by Senator Hill of Colorado, who owned for many years the Denver Republican. Hobart employed Mr Charles T Argesheimer of Cheyenne as city editor. Later it passed into the MISCELLANIES, 1919 IT hands of Mr. John Shingle, with Robert Shingle, now prominent in the Hawaiian Islands, as city editor. In 1894 it was under the control of Mr. George W. Perry, now of Sheridan, and there after it passed into the hands of Joseph M. Carey, with Frank Bond, now chief clerk of the general land office, Washington, D. C, as editor. Mr. Deming was employed by Judge Carey in 1901 as editor and manager and Mr. Bond went to Washington. Not long thereafter Mr. Deming, associated with Mrs. Zell P. Hart, J. H. Walton and others, took over the Tribune from judge Carey. Recently Mr. Deming purchased the interest of J. H- Walton, the latter retiring to assume the position of cashier of the Stockgrowers' National Bank of Cheyenne. The Tribune, under its present management has climbed to first place among Wyoming newspapers. THE LARAMIE REPUBLICAN. After the sale of the Boomerang to N. E. Corthell and his associates in the spring of 1890, the republicans of Albany county decided that they would have to have a paper to expound their doctrines. They accordingly offered $1,500 to any person or per sons who would establish a republican paper at Laramie prior to the campaign of 1890 and continue its publication till after the campaign of 1892. Thomas L. McKee and W. E. Chaplin were preferred in the offer and they undertook the contract and carried it out. In the latter part of 1891 Chaplin negotiated for McKee's interest in the real estate and J. C. McRae took over his interest in the newspaper. The paper was continued under the firm name of Chaplin & McRae till the latter part of 1894, when McKee again came back into the firm, purchasing McRae's interest. In 1896 F. D. Spafford, who had been with the paper since its establish ment, was taken into the partnership, and in 1898 McKee's inter est was purchased by James Mathison, who had also been with the institution from the first. Since 1898 Chaplin, Spafford and Mathison have owned the paper jointly, part of the time running it under the firm name of Chaplin, Spafford & Mathison and part of the time as a stock company, the stock being equally divided among the three. W. E. Chaplin has been the editor, James Mathi son the manager of the newspaper and F. D. Spafford the man ager of the job department. During fifteen years of the time George A. Cook, who came to the Republican from Sedalia, Mo., has been the city editor, and it is the judgment of the management that he has not had a peer as newsgatherer in the history of the state. From the very beginning the Republican has been, td all intents and purposes, under one management. It has been re publican in politics, independent in character, and has ever lent its influence to the upbuilding of the moral and intellectual forces of the city and state. IS WYOMING HISTORICAL SOCIETY A PAPER IN THE NORTHLAND. In 1883 the people away up in the northern portion of the state, in the new county of Johnson, concluded that they must have a paper to give them the news and through which to express their opinions. A plant was ordered and a printer and editor hired. We say printer and editor for the reason that he was first a printer. His name was Hugh R. Morgan. He went to Buffalo, the county seat of the new county and the only town of any importance in all that vast section. After waiting around for some time for the material to arrive, he became disgusted and returned to the rail road. The writer is not advised as to the first publishers of the Buffalo "Echo," but does know that when Jack Flagg got hold of the paper some years after, along about 1892, he changed the name of the paper to the "Voice." He seemed to be of the opinion that it was more than an "echo." It is still running; an exceed ingly bright, well edited paper, under the ownership and editorial management of Hon. Hayden M. White. With a single exception the writer has confined this sketch to publications that were daily. Numerous papers have been es tablished in more recent years, but none in the daily class that have been sufficiently lived to be ranked among the early papers. Ex-Governor John W. Hoyt at one time conceived the idea that he could run a paper built along the lines of Harper's Weekly in Wyoming. He had his publication office for the office Wyom ing Journal at Laramie. -It was short-lived. The Wyoming Stockgrowers' Journal, published by A. S. Mercer at Cheyenne, was a notable publication. There have been others of both a technicaland general' nature. FOUR OF THE GREATEST. Among those who ranked high in western journalism and who have passed on may be mentioned without controversy E A Slack, J. H. Hayford, Bill (Edgar Wilson) Nye and M c" Barrow. They will be taken up in the order of their departure. EDGAR WILSON NYE 185O-1896. In the month of May, 1876, a tall, angular young man, blonde in complexion and extremely awkward in his movements got off the train one afternoon at Laramie and proceeded to hunt uo Judge N. L. Andrews, at that time justice of the peace and United States commissioner He had a letter of introduction to the ttt *T°m a TtUal f nend in Wisc°nsin. It was Edgar. Wilson (Bill) Nye. He inquired about the opportunities for a y u,J man at Laramie and particularly desired employment in news paper work. Judge Andrews took him to the office of the Dailv Sentinel, run by Hayford & Gates. After formalities the ques MISCELLANIES, 1919 19 tion of employment was broached, and it was finally agreed that Nye should become city editor of the Sentinel at the weekly stipend of $10 per week and board, he taking up his domicile at the Hay ford residence. From the very beginning of his work it was noted that he had a keen sense of humor. The most trivial local item was given a turn that provoked a smile. Such characters as Bill Root, General Worth, August Vogelsang, Jed Holcomb and others, furnished ample material for a humorist and the trait grew upon the young man from Wisconsin. He soon took up corre spondence for Other papers outside of Laramie, among them be ing the Denver Tribune. O. H. Rothacker was its able editor and Eugene Field was city editor. Field was a humorist of na tional reputation and at once noted the quaint style possessed by the Laramie correspondent of the Tribune. He became person ally acquainted with him and encouraged its cultivation. Nye's humorous correspondence became rapidly more prolific and cor respondingly profitable. He had on his list such papers as Texas Sittings, Detroit Free Press and Peck's Sun. As a newsgatherer Bill Nye was not a great success. His mind ran more to "lurid glare" than to facts. On one occasion, in 1877, he and the city editor of the Cheyenne Daily Sun changed places for a week. James P C. Poulton was at that time the city editor of the Sun and a most industrious seeker after local items. The result was that he had an exceedingly interesting local paper, A week of Bill Nye was all that Colonel Slack, the editor of the Sun, desired. He was mighty glad when Poulton got back into the harness. Nye had no conception of the value of the personal item or the short- paragraphs that go to make up the grist of news that makes a local paper popular with its readers. His mind was constantly running in another channel. . On occasion Bill Nye lapsed into verse. Following is a fair sample of his poetry: ODE TO THE CUCUMBER. O, a cucumber grew by the deep rolling sea, And it tumbled about in reckless glee Till the summer waned and the grass turned brown, And the farmer plucked it and took it to town. Wrinkled and warty and bilious and blue . It lay in the market the autumn through ; Till a woman with freckles on her cheek Led in her husband, so mild and meek. He purchased the fruit, at her request, And hid it forever under his vest ; For it doubled him up like a kangaroo, And now he sleeps 'neath the violets blue. 20 WYOMING HISTORICAL SOCIETY His main forte, however, was prose, in which he made rapid flights from' the sublime to the ridiculous. In repartee he was. a master, and in his fights over patronage and other local matters with Editor Hayford of the Sentinel he found plenty of oppor tunity to keep in practice. With withering arraignment and bit ter sarcasm he made it impossible for Dr. Hayford to succeed himself as postmaster in 1882, and then the question arose, who was to take the office. Frank Hatton was first assistant postmas ter general and a personal friend of the Wyoming humorist. He wired Nye one day that he would see that the man whom he favored was appointed. After hasty consultation, Nye decided to favor himself. He appointed Chas. W. Spalding as his deputy and at times did considerable work in the office personally. He held the office about a year and was compelled because of failing health to resign. His letter of resignation is perhaps the best piece of humor he wrote while in Laramie or during his entire career. It follows : "Postoffice Divan, Laramie City, W. T., Oct. 1, 1883. "To the President of the United States: "Sir : — I beg leave at this time to officially tender my resigna tion as postmaster at this place, and in due form to deliver the great seal and the key to the front door of the office. The safe combination is set on the numbers 33, 66, and 99, though I do not remember at this moment which comes first, or how many times you revolve the knob, or which direction you turn it at first in order to make it operate. "There is some mining stock in my private drawer in the safe, which I have not yet removed. This stock you may have if you desire. It is a luxury, but you may have it. I have decided to keep a horse instead of this mining stock. The horse may not be so pretty, but it will cost less to keep him. "You will find the postal cards that have not been used under the distributing table, and the coal down in the cellar. If the stove draws too hard, close the damper in the pipe and shut the general delivery window. "Looking over my stormy and eventful administration as postmaster here, I find abundant cause for thanksgiving At the time I entered upon the duties of my office the department was not yet on a paying basis. It was not even self-sustaining Since that time, with the active co-operation of the chief executive and the heads of the departments, I have been able to make our postal system a paying one, and on top of that I am now able to reduce the tariff on average-sized letters from three to two cents I might add that this is rather too low, but I will not say anything that might seem undignified in an official resignation which is to be come a matter of history. Through all the vicissitudes of a tern MISCELLANIES, 1919 21 pestous term of office I have safely passed. I am able to turn over the office today in a highly improved condition, and to pre sent a purified and renovated institution to my successor. "Acting under the advice of Gen. Hatton, a year ago, I re moved the feather bed with which my predecessor, Deacon Hay ford, had bolstered up his administration by stuffing the window, and substituted glass. Finding nothing in the book of instruc tions to postmasters which made the feather bed a part of my official duties, I filed it away in an obscure place and burned it in effigy, also in the gloaming. This act maddened my predecessor to, such an extent that he then and there became a candidate for justice of the peace on the democratic ticket. The democratic party was able, however, with what aid it secured from the re publicans, to plow the old man under to a great degree. It was not long after I had taken my official oath before an era of un exampled prosperity, opened for the American people. The price of beef rose to a remarkable altitude and other vegetables com manded a good figure and a ready market. We then began to make active preparations for the introduction of the strawberry- roan two-cent stamps and the black-and-tan postal note. One re form has crowded upon the heels of another, until the country is today upon the foam-crested wave of permanent prosperity. "Mr. President, I cannot close this letter without thanking yourself and the heads of departments at Washington for your active, cheery and prompt co-operation in these matters. You can do as you see fit, of course, about incorporating this idea into your Thanksgiving proclamation, but rest assured that it would not be ill-timed or inopportune. It is not alone a credit to myself. It reflects credit upon the administration also. "I need not say that I herewith transmit my resignation with great sorrow and genuine regret. We have toiled on together month after month, asking no reward except the innate conscious ness of rectitude and the salary as fixed by law. Now we are to separate. Here the roads seem to fork, as it were, and you and I, and the cabinet, must leave each other at this point. "You will find the key under the door, and you had better turn the cat out at night when you close the office. If she does not go readily, you can make it clearer to her mind by throwing the canceling stamp at her. "If Deacon Hayford does not pay up his box rent, you might as well put his mail in the general delivery, and when Bob Head gets drunk and insists on a letter from' one of his wives every day in the week, you can salute him through the window in the box delivery with an old Queen Anne tomahawk, which you will find near the Etruscan water pail. This will not in any manner surprise either of these parties. "Tears are unavailing. I once more become a private citizen, clothed only with the right to read such postal cards as may be 2-2 WYOMING HISTORICAL SOCIETY addressed to me personally, and to curse the inefficiency of the Jostoffice department. I believe the voting class to be divided into two parties/viz. : Those who are in the postal service and those who are mad because they cannot receive a registered letter every fifteen minutes each day, including Sunday. "Mr. President, as an official of this government I now re tire. My term of service would not expire until 1886. I must, therefore, beg pardon for my eccentricity in resigning. It will be best, perhaps, to keep the heart-breaking' news from the ears of the European powers until the dangers of a financial panic are fully past. Then hurl it broadcast with a sickening thud. "Bill Nye." After leaving Laramie in the latter part of 1883 it took him some months to recover his health. Meanwhile, however, he did some syndicate writing. In 1885 he toured the country with James Whitcomb Riley, the Hoosier poet, and made a hit on the lecture platform. Among Nye's works are Bill Nye and the Boomerang (1881), Forty Liars and Other Lies (1882), and two comic histories of the United States ( 1894) and England from the Druids to the Reign of Henry VIII (1896). He died in 1896. DR. J. H. HAYFORD. The editor of the Laramie Sentinel throughout its entire career came near being the pioneer newspaper man of Wyoming. He was employed by N. A. Biaker, who was virtually the pioneer, during the year prior to his purchase of the Sentinel, in company with J. E. Gates. Dr. Hayford was a man of strong convictions and never hesitated to say in his editorial columns what was up permost in his virile mind. He had the gift of being able to con dense a great deal into small space. Judge Bramel used to say of him that he could sling more mud with a teaspoon than he could with a scoopshovel. In his competition with Bill Nye he undoubt-* edly got the worst of it, as Nye had the backing of the republican? organization of the county and took from the Sentinel practically all the public patronage. This was so galling to Dr. Hayford that he at one time (1884) consented to run on the democratic ticket for justice of the peace. At the same time he agreed with the re publican county committee to write some scathing articles in aid of the republican cause This was after Nye had been compelled! through illness to leave Laramie. One of the most bitter of the J political articles contributed to the republican cause by Dr Hav ford was branded by the Boomerang management "nJV/j by Dr Hayford." That let the cat onT^S andttpS ated the democrats to such an extent that thev defeated h^ f election. This was the election of which NyTsafd?none "f h" MISCELLANIES, 1919 23 syndicate articles : "The democratic party was able, however, with what aid it secured from the republicans, to plow the old man under to a great degree." After the death of Judge J. W. Blake in 1895, Dr. Hayford was appointed Judge of the Second Judicial District, a position which he held till January, 1897. During this time he presided over the court at the trial of Crocker at Evanston, thereafter granting a new trial to the convicted man, who secured a change of venue to Cheyenne and was acquitted. This decision on the part of the judge was unpopular and doubtless had more to do than any other one thing with his not becoming a candidate for election to the bench. After retiring from the district bench he was justice of the peace of the Laramie precinct. Dr. Hayford was twice married and was the father of a very large family of boys and girls.. EDWARD ARCHIBALD SLACK. From 1869 up to 1905 Edward Archibald Slack was the lead ing newspaper man of Wyoming. His paper was always interest ing and he used it for a purpose. His editorial work was of an extremely virile nature and when aroused to- action he never hesitated to call things by their proper names. In a political cam paign any subject under discussion seemed to grow in his mind from day to day until his competitor was overwhelmed. In finan cial matters he was generous, caring little for money except for the use he could put it to in carrying on his business and in sup porting his family. He was lavish in entertainment and loved to associate with his fellow editors. At the annual meetings of the Wyoming Press Association he thoroughly enjoyed greeting the editors from other portions of the state. He was a philosopher and his advice to others was always of the very best. It was a source of great pleasure to him to get a couple of the boys working in his office on a Sunday afternoon for a couple of hours' conver sation, he doing all the talking. But they enjoyed his talks and profited by them. Hje was a practical printer and on many occa sions did a great deal of his own mechanical work. He partic ularly delighted in job printing and always conducted a good job office in connection with his newspaper. About seven or eight years before the death of Colonel Slack he seemed to come to a realization of the necessity for accumulat ing some money to leave to his family. Up to that time his busi ness had taken every dollar, and all that he can be said to have received from it was a bare living for himself and family. In the short space of time indicated he was able to get together, entirely outside of his newspaper business, a competency of about $45,000. Edward Archibald Slack was born October 2, 1842, at Owego, N. Y. He married Sarah Frances Neely September 22, 24 WYOMING HISTORICAL SOCIETY 1870, the wedding taking place in the state house at Sprmgfield, 111 Mrs Slack being the sister of the wife of Gov. J. M. Palmer. They at once set out for the great undeveloped west, taking up their residence at South Pass, Wyo., where the husband had pioneered in 1868. Colonel Slack's first business in Wyoming was mining. He also ran a sawmill and a lumber yard. He was ap pointed clerk of the United States district court when South Pass was in the territory of Dakota. In 1869 he purchased the South Pass News and was thereafter engaged in the newspaper business. For a period of about nine years before his death he was Receiver of the United States Land Office at Cheyenne, Wyo. He died March 23, 1907, leaving a wife and two daughters, Mrs. Harriet Bond and Mrs. Dora Dubois, of Cheyenne. MORRIS C. BARROW. In the early spring of 1879 a young man by the name of Morris C. Barrow applied for work on the Laramie Daily Times and was given the position of city editor. He was a good news- gatherer and made the Times a very readable paper.- When Bill Nye started the Boomerang in 1881 he applied for a position as compositor and was given "cases." Shortly thereafter he was raised to the position of city editor and remained in that place until Bill Nye resigned, when he became editor. Later he went to Rawlins and conducted a paper there for about two years, when he was seized with the idea that the Northwestern railroad was going to bring central Wyoming rapidly to the front. He pur chased a printing outfit and hastened with it to old Fort Fetter- man, thereafter removing it to Douglas, in 1886, where he estab lished "Bill Barlow's Budget," conducting the same till the date of his death. Sagebrush Philosophy, mentioned elsewhere, was also a creature of his fertile brain. A vein of humor ran all through his work, and yet it was not the same kind of humor as that of Bill Nye. It was more like Elbert Hubbard or Brann of the Iconoclast. He had a wonderful vocabulary and was a fluent writer upon many subjects. He was born at Canton Pa October 4, i860, but was raised in the state of Nebraska. His father was a minister of the Christian Church. He died October 9 1010 at Douglas, Wyo., leaving a wife and two daughters, Mrs. H. B. Fay and Mrs. Helen M. Brees. Mrs. Barrow lives at Douglas Wyo WHEATLAND COLONY Cheyenne, Wyo., Dec. ist, 1914. Dear Miss Davis : You wished me to write some of my western experiences. Suppose I take for my subject the origin of Wheatland, though it is not so ancient as some other reminiscences I might mention, but as it is one of the greatest factors in the development of our state a brief historical account ought to be preserved in the archives of our state. In 1878 I emigrated from Colorado to the location where Uva is situated. No name for the place at this time, only Laramie River. Fort Laramie, being a military post, was in existence long before the above date, and tales are told about expeditions from the Post against the hostile Indians that would fill a large volume. It was the month of March — this date can't escape memory, it being the month of what is known as the great March storm. Recollection of it will never be forgotten by those who experienced it or saw its effects. This was prior to moving my family and getting something of a habitation for them erected. I anrived on the banks of the Laramie with team, supplies and a hired man. It was about four p. m. I told my man, George Harden, to unharness the team while I ran up the creek to get some game. It did not take a Nimrod then to kill game, deer and antelope being plentiful. I was gone only a short time when it began to rain slightly. I happened to look up to judge the weather conditions and what met my gaze in the northwest is beyond de scription, an inky blackness with a rift here and there showing almost rainbow colors. These elements were by no means sta tionary, but seemed to be at war with one another, flitting from one part of the heavens to another. I arrived in camp with saddles of deer on my shoulders, made fire and had the usual menu for supper, which consisted of baking powder biscuits, black coffee and the venison I had killed. Soon the shades of night began to fall. Had the team tied to the wagon with a little hay to nibble at. I had a few boards on the running gear to make part of the floor for the prospective mansion. Under this we made our bed. No sooner were we under cover when the rain turned to snow, and the violence of the wind almost swept us off of the ground. It ap peared the devil and his hosts were having an outing for amuse ment. The night of Tarn O'Shanter was not a circumstance to this night. Of course, no sleep could be entertained during the night, and how we longed for daylight, which finally dawned in 26 WYOMING HISTORICAL SOCIETY one sense to our joy. As we began to see distinctly, what a sight met our gaze. Horses still tied to the wagon, but they seemed a Slid pile of snow, hadn't the semblence of horses. Trees loaded with snow, branches torn from trunks. Ail nature seemed in volved in a war of the most fiendish character. We still remained under the wagon covered with snow, while the tempest raged unabated, and in spite of all we could do the snow wished to be a bed fellow. Luckily we did not go to bed undressed, a common custom under unfavorable conditions. Fin ally we could stand it no longer. George said, "We must get up ; I'm not going to be smothered without making an effort to escape." When on our feet it seemed the wind came from every direction and with such a fierceness it was almost impossible to withstand it, even with mouth and ears closed. A quarter of a mile or so away was a cabin on the bank of the stream, occupied by William Bacon and his wife. (Bacon has a history I would like to go into, but must forbear.) We must decide quickly what to do. As we 'were on the river bank and had an idea of the downward course of the stream, we joined hands, keeping on the edge of the bank. Finally we stumbled against the cabin and what a merciful deliverance. Bacon and his wife were simply bewildered at our appearance. The cabin was small, perhaps ten by twelve, built of small Cottonwood logs, and hadn't been properly chinked. The inmates spent all the night corking the seams to keep out the storm. We now felt in Heaven, and how sweetly some things taste which at other times would be repugnant. The question arose, how were we to return to the wagon and •secure our team, bedding, grub and oats. 'Tis said fortune favors the brave, and this was the occasion to show bravery. About what we thought was sundown it seemed the storm rather subsided, or perhaps took fresh wind. However this may be, we took 'ad vantage of the lull in the storm and got team, bedding and grub to the cabin. I put the team in a small shack without roof using part of my bedding as a covering, tying same with a rope and gave them oats three times daily. We took turn about to keep fire Inalfy subsSed.^ *"** f°Ur ^ ^ ^ wh- the Sorm I have encountered many storms prior and subsequent to this one, but they were merely a cat's paw in comparison After the t^?treamblwarUsimD? bmlt' ^i* *? to the'cottonwoo^s along deep What was ZY, imP°ssible. Snow from six to ten feet deep. What was now to be done to secure timber? We were in formed that tin Cottonwood CVppL- zt^ ..,: vve were in get abundance of rimW a *¦' , teen miles dlstant, we could u Lrees> ancl -1- know some stumps must have been MISCELLANIES, 1919 27 ten feet above ground. By the time we had sufficient timber to construct a house, twelve by sixteen feet, the snow had subsided and small loads could be hauled to Laramie, and while George hauled a load, which took all day, I had a load in the building. We established what is called a road ranch in those days. It was a case of necessity, with houses fifteen to twenty miles apart, for travelers to secure food for man and beast. This is a long preface to get to my text, but I'll get to Wheatland by and by. If my memory is correct, about 1880 Judge Carey had large cattle interests in the vicinity of Casper. This being a half-way stopping place, he occasionally put up at my hostelry. By this time I was getting the lay of the country, and having had seven years' experience in Colorado as an irrigator, and knowing the development of the country around Greeley by irrigation, when my eye caught the land that is now Wheatland I thought what an eligible site for a colony. I was so impressed with such a favor able location that I kept it uppermost in my mind. Finally, one night when the Judge was stopping with me I unfolded my idea. We discussed the matter until a late hour and I so impressed him that on his arrival in Cheyenne a committee was appointed to in vestigate what he had heard. The committee reported favorably and a camp was at once organized for the construction of large irrigation works to convey water from the Laramjie River on to the lands. Engineers, men and teams were soon employed, and the hum of development work was now in full swing for what is now known as Wheatland. Now, instead of the cactus prairie, where roamed the wolf, coyote and prairie dog in all their glory, with not a habitation within the compass of the eye, which is a fairly good picture of the primitive condition of this settlement, behold the change that has taken place in so short a time. All the conditions transformed by the magic touch of water and an in dustrious peasantry, who, by their vigorous efforts, have wrung from the inhospitable prairie prosperous homes that would vie with any farming community in the land. And what a gorgeous setting for a colony, the fertile, re sponsive prairie, bounded on the west by picturesque hills clothed densely with evergreen, spruce, pine and cedar, and the majestic Laramie Peak in the distance, a sentinel, as it were, whose apex is bathed in the morning clouds, and Old Sol, loath to leave the scene', plants a farewell kiss on her majestic brow. To the east an enchanting and unobstructed view over an almost limitless country meets our gaze, including the Chugwater valley, renowned in border story, the undulating hills and an ever-varying panoramic view, until the horizon obstructs our vision. But the greatest of all features is its abundance of water sup ply from the never- failing Laramie River, besides numerous other streams which abound in the vicinity with a copious supply of the purest water, which is the greatest essential in this arid country. 28 WYOMING HISTORICAL SOCIETY My pen is inadequate to give due credit to the originators of this laudable undertaking. No one will gainsay or deny the honor to Judge Carey, who took the initiative with heart and soul in all development work, even to the present day. Due credit must' also be given to E. S. Nettleton, consulting engineer, who stood on the topmost round of his profession, and also to J. A. Johnston, who had had long experience in Colorado as an engineer, and who had full charge of all construction work, which has stood the test of time until the present day. John H. Gordon. (Details as given to 'I. S. Bartlett by Charley Clay in Wash ington, D. C, March, 1894.) THE TRUE STORY OF THE LOST CABIN MINES The Lost Cabin gold placers of Wyoming were discovered and worked for three days, in the fall of 1865, by seven men who came into the region from the Black Hills country. Five of the seven men were killed by the Indians; two escaped. The two who escaped brought away $7,000 in coarse gold. Since that day no effort for the discovery of this locality has been successful, al though many attempts have been made by large and small parties to find this wonderfully rich placer ground where the gold could almost be literally picked up from the ground. The account given by Charley Clay, an old Wyoming pioneer (formerly of Douglas, Wyoming), now in Washington (March 20, 1894), is this (and it is delivered djrectly from the two men who escaped and gave him the gold to put in the safe at the Post Traders', store at Fort Laramie) : In October, 1865, two men reached Old Fort Reno at the point which is now the crossing of Powder River, in a terribly weak arid exhausted condition. They explained that they had belonged to a party of seven gold pros pectors who came into the Big Horn Mountains on their eastern slope from1 the Black Hills of Dakota. They traveled along the base of the range, going south and testing the ground until they came to a park surrounded by heavy timber, through which ran a bold mountain stream, and which a few hundred yards below joined a larger stream. Here they found rich signs of the yellow metal and at a depth of three or four feet struck bed rock, where the gold was very plentiful and coarse. They immediately camped, having tools and grub which they brought by two pack animals. Among their tools they brought a big log saw and with that sawed enough logs to construct a flume. They also built a log cabin. The seven men, all working hard, furnished their habitation and flume in three days and then began to work the gold in good ear nest. Late one afternoon on the third day they were suddenly at tacked by a band of Indians and five of the men were killed al most instantly, the 'other two escaping to the cabin, where they held the Indians at bay till nightfall. In the darkness of the night they succeeded in escaping without being seen by the Indians. They were on foot and took nothing with them but the gold, their 30 WYOMING HISTORICAL SOCIETY arms and some food. From this time on they traveled at night and hid themselves during the day. After three nights of rapid and continuous walking they reached Fort Reno and told their story. The commanding officer, who did not credit the tale fully, had them arrested as deserters from the army (deserters were frequent then) , and they were taken to Fort Fetterman, where an examination convinced the authorities they were innocent, and they were discharged from custody. They then went to Fort Laramie and spent the winter. Here Mr. Clay met them and, being clerk in the Post Traders' store, they gave him the gold for safe keeping. They gave it to him in three baking powder cans — three one-pound cans full of gold as they brought it in. He put the gold in the safe until their departure. They were Swedes and totally ignorant of the country, not knowing the names of the streams or mountains among which they traveled, but gave him this report as here set forth, describing the locality with some more detail. They left in the spring determined to go back, and in order the better to find the place went to the Black Hills, formed a new party to go over their old trail. In this expedition some ten or twelve persons engaged and all were killed by the Indians. Colonel Bullock, the Post trader at Fort Laramie, without knowing the fate of the Black Hills party, set about forming a large expedition to find the Lost Cabin claims. He had 150 men enlisted in the undertaking and all preparations made to start out when an order came from the commanding officer of the depart ment forbidding the expedition and ordering out the military forces, if necessary, to prevent it, as the Indians were then hostile and an extensive Indian war was feared. For the next twelve or fifteen years succeeding it was unsafe to go- into that region and prospect. The place is still a mystery, although it has been much written about and searched for. Copy of Letter Written by S. V. Miller from Salem, Oregon, November 24, 1852 Salem, Oregon Territory, Nov. 24, 1852. Dear Friends : We are well; hope you are all well. We propose in this to give you a sketch of what we deem would be interesting to you and the friends. Well, we left the Grove (Pleasant Grove, Indi ana), as you all know, on the 24th of March — from thence via. the following towns : Montecallo, Payetta, Millford, Independence, Attica, Danville; Illinois — Bloomington, Peoria, Knoxville, Bur- tington ; Iowa — Middletown, Bermingham, Iowaville, Drakes- ville, Unionville, Gardengrove, Pisgah, Kainsville (now Council Bluffs), 722 miles. Crossed the river at this point May 20th; north side of Platte to Fort Laramie, 572 miles ; north side, upper crossing of Platte, Sweetwater, 54 (turnout) Sweetwater, 107, to summit of Soutb Pass; junction of Salt Lake and Sub- let's cut-off', 19; to Green River on Salt Lake road, 44 miles; Keemies' cut-off to Ham's Fork, where Sublet cut-off crosses that branch of Bear River, 51 miles; thence to Fort Hall on Sublet's cut-off, 180 miles ; south side of Snake River on Louie's Fork of Columbia to Fort Boise, 380 ; to Dalles, 375 ; to Portland, 155 ; by water to Salem, 60 miles, where we are now. Whole distance from Pleasant Grove to Salem, 2,928 miles. (A rough sketch is given of the route, names of town written in.) Well, now I will resume my history. After a great deal of trouble and expense I got in company with my teams at Iqfiiaville. I missed them at Peoria. They took the left-hand road ; they should have taken the right. Well, we thought best to lie by one week to recruit our cattle, which we did near Iowaville. From thence we made the best of our way to Kainsville. We were so late in the season we could not find time to go by St. Joseph to meet Hitchcock. In the western states I found no country that possessed any advantages over northern Indiana for farming. Kainsville is situated four miles from the Missouri River, in a ravine. The buildings are small and mostly built of logs and oc cupied by Mormons and traders ; it is only supported by travelers. The Missouri River is a muddy, deep river ; in fact all the streams and pools through Iowa were muddy and warm. Making the most of Iowa, it is a miserable state. On the 20th of May we crossed the Missouri ; we rolled out two miles and camped till next morn ing. The 2 1st we rolled six miles, passed the old Mormon winter 32 WYOMING HISTORICAL SOCIETY quarters ; here the Mormons, after they were driven from Navuoo, attempted to form a city. They built a strong wall around the outside of the city. It being an Indian territory, the Indians com plained ; the Indian agent gave them notice to evacuate the city, which they did in due time. It is astonishing the amount of work they did in so short a time, taking into consideration that during their stay in that place an epidemic broke out among them and slayed by hundreds — this epidemic was supposed to be some kind of poison in the water. May 211 st we formed into a company, 12 wagons, had our officers, etc. ; 22nd we moved on to a creek. There is a miserable low tribe of Indians that inhabit the country up and down the Missouri River, called the Omihaws or Ninahaws. They are harmless to all appearances. Elk Horn is a considerable stream, 30 miles from Kainsville. There was but one ferry when we were there ; they charged $2.00 per wagon and crossed every five minutes, and were behind a day when we got there. The owner of the ferry was a crusty old fellow and the emi grants had to ferry themselves ; he cleared some $500 every day. I understood that they had put another ferry below a piece after we passed. Well, for 200 miles after we crossed the Missouri River we passed over a splendid prairie country ; the only possible objec tion there could be urged against this country is the want of timber. Twelve miles from Elk Horn we struck Platte River; good grass all the way near the river ; but out from one to four miles from the river high land bluffs follow the river; between the river and the bluffs is what is called the Platte Bottom. We passed up the Platte a good ways before these bluffs made their appear ance. On these bluffs there is scarcely a trace of vegetation, ex cept oflCe in a while small sage-brush or a spear of greasewood. We found some little valleys still further out, where we saw considerable herds of buffalo and millions of wolves and ante lopes — wolves of every color and size. The antelope is something shaped like a deer, the horns fall back in a half circle, their quar ters are heavier and squarer than a deer's ; they run very fast and are very wild. We also saw quantity of hare; they are nearly white and about three times as large as our rabbit. West of Elk Horn and on the river we saw the first Pawnees. They are numerous and occupy a great extent of country. They are a black, tall, slim Indian, a very sneaking; beggarly, thieving class of beings. They shave their heads all but a narrow strip which runs from the crown to the back of their necks ; this they leave about two inches long ; it makes them have a very wild and savage appearance. They let on to be very friendly, but if they could get any of the emigrants out where they could strip them MISCELLANIES, 1919 33 they did not fail to do so and in some cases would even kill. They are at war with all the other nations. From Loup Fork (which we came up some 60 miles and crossed, then struck to Platte 35 miles in southwesterly direction) the Sioux Indians inhabit to Fort Laramie. They are a large, fine looking Indian ; they are also a very numerous tribe of Indians. They are trying to kill all the Pawnees. (I wish them great suc cess in that pious work.) The country from Loup Fork to Fort Laramie bears a more barren appearance, though we still had grass by picking our place for grazing. We found some alkali here in places. The distance between these points is about 300 miles. If I were going to cross again I would use the Platte water, for between these points the water was so warm and muddy ; the trains would dig little wells and drink quantities of the water, which was usually cool and a little alkalish. Between these points the trains suffered most from sickness and cholera. I was talking to a muleteer that had come up the Platte when the emigration had nearly all passed. He said that from Loup Fork to Fort Laramie it would average six fresh graves to every mile. From other accounts I should think this estimate was none too great. The bottom from here on was narrow and irregular, some times passing over considerable up-land. I will give you a de scription ol Fort Laramie. When we came in sight of it, it looked like a settlement of houses. Everyone was straining his eyes to catch a glimpse of white settlements. The day we passed Fort Laramie was a very fine looking day. Though it was Mon day, we all stopped and went over to see (our feelings were some thing like the sailor when he gets into port after a long voyage). There was a store, a grocery, several dwellings and the fort and soldiers' quarters, which was a long shed, or stable, appearing building, and the magazine-house. The fort is a long, hollow square about 30 feet high and walls about 20 inches thick, built of unburnt bricks ; three or four can non mounted on the walls. There are several small rooms on the inside of this square and a kind of a porch on the inside within four or five feet of the top.'so wide that six men can walk abreast. Near this is the magazine house. If is under strong guard day arid night. This squad of buildings is situated about two miles from the Platte on the Laramie Fork. The first fort built here was on the north side and a little up the Platte, about 60 years ago. The next was built by Captain Laramie on, or near, the present fort. There were about 60 soldiers stationed here. When we passed the whole squad of buildings seemed under guard. I pre sume this was done more for form than necessity. The soldiers are under absolute control by their officers ; they are mostly boys 34 WYOMING HISTORICAL SOCIETY and foreigners They have blue caps, white pants and round- aoouts X outside seams of their pants are trimmed with blue blue patches on their shoulders and stripes of blue on the front * Four°miies above Fort Laramie we struck the Black ffills.- It is about 40 miles through these hills, through which the road is very rough. We began to see some bad roads nov^ but nothing to what we did see after we crossed Green River. The Black Hills are covered with scrubby pine and cedar. At a distance they look black, being covered with this dark verdure; I suppose hence the name. From this to the Dalles we had only patches of grass, some times two or three days without any grass, then we would have a little for two or three days, then none, and so on. What then is the ground covered with, you ask? Why, I will tell you; from the Black Hills onward there was a species of •sage-brush that increased in size and quantity till we go to the summit of the Rocky Mountains. This brush varied in size from one to seven feet high, it was usually about eighteen inches or two feet in height ; with this was the greasewood, which had thorns like the hawthorne, and the surface of the ground was literally covered with cactus or prickly pear, still increasing in quantity to the summit and afterwards gradually decreasing. After we left the Platte we struck for Sweetwater, then we began to see mountains. On the north and south these moun tains were piles of rocks. Every night we could hear on these mountains wild animals — the bear, wolf, cougar ; this last animal is a specie of the tiger. In 50 miles we came to the Independence Rock. It is about 150 feet high, 300 long and is oblong; thousands of names are cut in this rock of granite. In five miles we came to the Devil's Gate. This pass is formed by the Sweetwater, as it were', breaking a spur of the Rattlesnake Mountain. The walls of the gate are about 250 feet perpendicular up and down; they run only 200 or 300 yards to the south. The road passes around the end of this spur. We were six miles south of this gate on the 4th of July, where we had a celebration. There was an oration from a lawyer from Quincy, 111. — a good orator — a fine dinner, a flag, singing and the names of every man, woman and child were enrolled and officers, pre amble, all was taken on paper and then pasted on a board and nailed to the liberty pole. In addition to all the fine dishes we could obtain usually in the states, to our fare was added antelope and sage fowl flesh ; it was a great day with us. July 5th we started on, right up Sweetwater, still rising till we came to the summit. The rise to the summit was so gradual that we could not tell from appearance when we were on the MISCELLANIES, 1919 35 dividing ridge ; though in a mile or two we came to what is called the Pacific Springs, and here the water turned west. Nothing important transpired on the route from where we struck Sweet water till we got to the summit. We still had trouble about feed, but our cattle looked pretty well. We saw snow in the ravines and under ledges of rock and it snowed very hard the day we crossed the summit (about July 12). We went on till we crossed Green River and our company separated here; eight wagons went to California, five took Keenie's cut-off to intersect Sublett cut-off at Ham's Fork of Bear River. Here we passed over some stupendous mountains near Ham's Fork. We came on to Bear River and had better grass here. We came down that stream 60 miles, but did not cross it. We left the California road and Bear River four miles this side the soda springs. The springs are some of the great curiosities of nature. When you come within four miles of the springs you see two white mounds ahead, Bear River near to the left, a little farther to the left Bear River Mountains, which are very high and commanding, to the right a cedar grove. As you approach the mounds you see water gushing out, bubbling and sputtering. A little basin catches nearly all the water, a little water issuing out' of the basin and coursing its way down the side of the mount. When you walk on the mound it seems hol low or shelly within. You are almost afraid to walk for fear of breaking through. You taste the water; it is lukewarm and has a strong soda taste and is rather red in, appearance. You then go to the other mound, a little further to the right, 100 yards from the first. There you see a similar spring, only not quite so large and the water not quite so red. Then go 100 yards up a little stream from the last mound and you see a spring about as large as a washtub sputtering and boiling very hard ; this has no perceptible outlet, the water is clear as crystal ; taste it, it is cold as ice, much stronger of soda, but not very unpleasant. The gas rising from it makes it necessary for you to hold your breath very particularly or you will strangle. One rod from this is a spring not quite so strong and the water is nearly red ; it is al most thick with some red substance. Above these is the cedar grove. A mile off is some good pure cold water springs. The ground all around the neighborhood is spongy, white, red, yellow, ash color and almost all other colors, and there are signs all around of old soda springs having dried up. The earth here undergoes, from appearances, some powerful emotions from some cause. A mile below these mounds is another powerful soda spring right on the bank of the river. This spring is cold. Stoop down and try to drink out of it, and it will almost take your breath ; the gases will hit you nearly hard enough to knock you down. You can hear these springs from 100 to 200 yards distant, roaring and effervescing. Go around the bend of the river one-quarter of a 36 WYOMING HISTORICAL SOCIETY mile and you hear something like a steamboat and see the water splashing up 12 or 14 feet high, near the river, still not in it. This is the celebrated Steamboat Spring. Go to it, stick your head down in the spring where the water spouts out of ; be careful not draw the least breath or you will strangle; it is a little warm. Do this. I did it. This is very interesting. It seems the water will burst the ground all around, seeming to come with such force at times. It is also soda. There are several old craters, dry now, which were evidently once springs of similar character. We turned from this and in three miles left the California road and Bear River, thence to Fort Hall, 55 miles. I must here go back. The Crow Indians possess the country from upper crossing of Platte to Summit north; we saw but one of that tribe and that was a squaw. She was a low, heavy, black, dirty piece of God's creation. However, we traveled all the way up Sweet water with 500 to 600 Shoshone or Snake Indians;- they were very peaceable and quiet. From Fort Hall we kept on south side of Snake or Louis' Fork of Columbia over a sandy, sage plain. Here let me say that from Fort Hall to Burnt River is the most drear and desolate country that you could imagine. It is certainly one of the most God-forsaken countries in the world. Here we suffered, here our cattle died, here we gave out, here we thought every night we could not stand it another day, here we only made ten miles a day, here I threw away my wagons, here Greek met Greek, here we were sick, here we run out of provisions, here, we had to pay 60c a pound for flour. With the exception of the sickness we had on the Platte, our trip was a pleasure trip till we came to Fort Hall. The country after we came to Burnt River had a more livable appearance; grass more plentiful. Here we met numbers of Oregonians com ing out to meet their friends. They told us fine stories about Oregon and said our troubles were nearly over. I told one of these old Oregonians what bad luck I had. He said, "Have you lost any of your family?" "No," said I. "If you get through with all your family," said he, "and lose all your property you may consider you are very lucky." We came to Grand Rounds, a beautiful valley on the Grand Round River ; this is a very fertile valley ; a few white traders live here. We got a -good many vegetables, peas, beans, potatoes, green apples, etc.; we paid well for them, though.. We gave a dime apiece for potatoes as large as a walnut, other things in pro portion. We came eight miles from the Grand Rounds on the Blue Mountains through very heavy timber and crossed the Grand Rounds River. Next day we came 13 miles and camped, next day 16 miles and camped. Here we remained three days. My wife was sick. The next morning after we came to this camp a moun- MISCELLANIES, 1919 37 taineer came to us and as he had no name we called him John. He came with us the balance of the way. We have him yet and he and Dan (two years old) are both fat, ragged and saucy. (See note at end of letter.) Next the Umatilla. It is about 45 miles across the Blue Mountains and through very heavy timber. While I was at Great Rounds I lost my pony. He started up the mountains and I had to leave him. However, I swapped a cow for another pony and brought him about 185 miles and he ran off or was stolen. Then I had a pony left and have him yet, that I swapped a saddle for on the Blue Mountains. From Uma tilla we came to Agency, which is an old missionary station 90 miles on the other side of the Dalles. We had a pretty hard time till we got to the Cascades. The Dalles is so named from there being natural troughs or dalles in the Columbia. From here it is 45 miles to Cascade in the Columbia by water. Between these places I saw the first seal I ever saw ; they look like dogs swim ming in the water. The Columbia is a very deep river. It has been sounded 900 feet in one or two places and no bottom found. Many of the emigrants went from the Cascades straight to Puget Sound. It is now the rainy season and it rains nearly every day ; ev erything has rather a gloomy appearance. The earth is almost covered with water, the green grass is starting and all vegetation is as if it were spring. There is a considerable portion of level prairie in the Wil lamette Valley, and to take the whole into consideration, it is an excellent valley of land and well adapted to farming purposes. I think the soil produces a little larger crops than the soil of north ern Indiana. Crops are more certain. Wheat and oat straw look almost white here ; potatoes are larger ; in fact all culinary veg etables are larger in this country than that. This country is evidently easier for a man to make a living in than that. I doubt it being any more healthy than Indiana. I have had the worst kind of a cold for four or five weeks ; both of our children have had colds, but Jane is in good health. Thomas, Margaret and their child are well. They live in Portland now, though they will not stay long, I expect, for I think they are not making much ; but if we can all make a living this winter we will do well. William Lackey, Edward Waters and Taylor McLaughlin left us on the head of Burnt River and footed it through. I told them to come on and that we could make out. I understand they got through very well. I cannot leave this part of my story with out saying that William Lackey has not his equal for perseverance and integrity. His conduct with me will ever be green in my memory and to say the least of him we owe him for our success in getting through. His vigilance saved our cattle; he kept us 38 WYOMING HISTORICAL SOCIETY from quarreling and dividing. He has all the good qualities that can be embodied in one man. My other boys were very good, but they could not compare with him. I had but -one difficulty with the boys and that was a mere matter of moonshine. Well, concerning the Indians on the route: -We had no dif ficulty with them. The Diggers were said to be the most danger ous, but they proved to be the most friendly. Tust, my cattle swam Snake river 35 miles above Fort Boi (blurred, but probably Boise) ; I could not get them across back. Offered $50 to any one who would bring them to me. Mr. Singleton, from Missouri, found two Digger Indians six miles down the river ; he brought them to me. I got them to ?wim across and bring my cattle. The white caps were rolling three feet high and the Indians swam the river when I suppose no white man could have done it. Another time a white man was thrown overboard at the up per crossing of Snake and was drowning-. Two Diggers saw it from the other side. They jumped 20 feet into the water and swam like fish to where he was and saved him from instant death. It is true they gave them each a suit of clothes and enough pro visions to last them two months. Next tribe Nepensees, next Cayuse, next Umatillas, next Wallas, next Deshutes, next Claekam, next Chicataws. Advice in reference to your ever coming to> this country: I will say that I would never bring a family across the plains again for Oregon and California both and all they contain. I wish you were all here, but how you are to get here is the difficulty. I would say that if you can't come by water you better stay where you are. I am here and am well satisfied, but if I were in the Grove (Pleasant Grove, Ind.) and fixed as well as I was six months be fore I startedand knew what I know how, I would stay there. I am located in Salem and there is a good prospect of me doing well at my business here. I have a first rate supply of drugs and surgical instruments. ' I send you my card in this. Boyd can never get here with all his family to cross the plains, neither can Hugh; as for the other boys, they can do as well there as they can here; Money is very plenty here and no credit. The old Oregonians are pretty healthy. Some Indians so old they can recollect when Mount Hood was a hole in the ground and the Columbia a spring branch. They assist the whites to work some, but they are rather slothful. Speculation runs very high here. Many old Oregonians say as soon as they can get money enoilgh to do> them; they are going back to the States; But nineteen out of twenty say they will make this their home. . . Well, when I get $7,000 I will go back, not before, but if I stick the right way it will not take me long to make that. As for MISCELLANIES, 1919 39 the mines, I will not go there, for I do not see any chance for me to do anything there. There is no business here when well followed that will not yield a good profit. Every man has $300 or $400 in his pocket who has been here a year or two. I am sure that there is no bet ter country under the sun for making money than Oregon, but God knows those who cross the plains earn all they ever get here. Now, if any of you ever cross the plains after what I have -said to you observe the following: Cross at Fort Kearney by fir st. of May,' or don't start at all. If grass is not up enough, take some feed with you ; then cross to the north side of the Platte at new Fort Kearney. Bring nothing but what you will need on the road. I prefer horses or mules. Travel every day that you can. Don't lie by to rest your stock ; make a few miles every day that 'you can. Take 200 pounds bread stuff, 80 pounds meat, 15 pounds dried apples, 2^4 pounds soap, 15 pounds rice, 1 pound macaroni, J4 pound farina and other little necessaries for each grown per son; 6 pounds coffee, if you wish; tea is preferable to coffee. Bring some spare animals. If there is much of an emigration you will find enough of traders on the road selling everything a man wants, but at very exorbitant prices. Last, if any of you are determined to come let me know as soon as you possibly can and I will meet you with mules as far as Fort Boise, if no further. I understand a new route is now surveying to start from the upper part of this valley and intersect the old road 15 miles this side of Fort Boise, which will save 250 or 300 miles and a much better route. It has already been viewed and is said.to be a good route. On the old road you have' the Cascade Mountains to cross, which is 81 miles of the worst road in the world and no grass. Or come by water, bring your stock on the pack trail, which is almost impassable, or sell them for a song, then it will cost you $20 apiece to come down by water. When you get here you will meet a hundred skinners and they are bound to strap you before you get into any business. No matter how much you may have then, you have got to begin the world anew. The climate here is very damp and I think subject to as many changes as that, though not so severe. Jt is now as cold, they say, as it will be this winter. The weather resembles our April weather. The people sow wheat in every month here. Prices : Clothing is very little higher here than there. Gro ceries : Molasses, 50c to $1.00; tea, 75c to $1.37; coffee, 50c, sugar (brown and white), 10c to 20c ; saleratus, 20c ; tobacco, 25c to $1.00; all other groceries in proportion. Flour $15 and on the raise; beef, 8c to 12c; pork, 20c; wheat, $5.00 per bushel; but ter, 62c to 75c. Cows, good, $100.00 ; good horse, $250.00; lum ber $30.00 per thousand ; labor, $2.00 and board ; boarding, 75c per' meal ; $10.50 per week at taverns. 40 WYOMING HISTORICAL SOCIETY The emigration this season being so great, it has brought flour up from $6.00 to $15 ; work from 50c to $2 per day, Sacramento City is burnt to ashes. That raised flour, too, arid lumber from $20 to $30 ; at Portland to $60 per thousand. For prescription and medicine, $5.00; visit, 5 miles, $15.00 cash down, for, as I said, no credit here ; that is a glorious thing for us. If I could forget my old friends, or rather if I had them here I think I should be willing to spend my days here in Salem. The weather here in the- summer must be splendid. From what I can hear the Puget Sound is going ahead now. Rogue River Valley, I am told, has some splendid locations unoccupied. I have not heard of John Miller since I started, nor Benjamin Ritchie, nor from any soul there, nor from Hitchcock since he left Independence Rock. The last I saw of McCaslin he was in Portland in the hospital; he had some money. He was so discouraged that I believe he will die there. I cannot tell much about any of the other boys who came from that country. Tell all of my friends where I am, and if you wish let them read this. You must excuse errors and the want of connection, for I took several evenings to write and may have said the same thing twice. I have not time to connect or even read it. Tell Father to rest contented about us ; we are satisfied and safe here as we would be there. We will likely come to see you in two years if you do not come out here. Let Samuel know where I am. Tell him to let Father have some of those things Jane left there. We have, as I said before, not received one word from any of you since we left the Grove. Don't be afraid to write. Letters are only ten cents here and we throw away all change under 25 cents. So when you begin to write we will save them to get the letters with. We. hope you will not neglect us. We remain as ever your devoted brother and sister. (Signed) S. V. and M. J. Miller. Salem, Oregon Territory, Nov. 24, 1852. The original of this letter is in possession at this time of D. B. Miller, the son of the writer, who is in the General Land Office of the United States, in Washington, D. C. Mr. S. V. Miller died in 1858. * Copied for the Wyoming State Historical Society by Mrs. H. B. Patten, 1654 Park Road, Washington, D. C., July 6, 1914- Note — The "mountaineer who came to us" and had no name was a new son, named at that time "John." In three days the mother and babe began their journey to Oregon. THE TEXAS TRAIL (BY JOHN B. KENDRICK.) The "Texas Trail" was the highway over which a tide of : cattle was moved from southwestern and western Texas to the northwestern states, including Indian Territory, Kansas, western Nebraska, Colorado, Wyoming Territory, North and South Da kota and Montana. The surplus of these cattle had been accumulating for many years, being the increase of herds during the years just preceding and those including the period of the Civil War. Many of the cat tle were even unbranded at the time the movement began. Those who have enjoyed reading Dana's "Two Years Before the Mast" will recall the good ship "Pilgrim" which sailed from Boston in 1834 around Cape Horn and the coast of California, returning to Boston in 1836. The ship had for her cargo on the return voyage 40,000 cattle hides, these hides representing the only part of the animals that had any commercial value. This suggests the myriads of cattle that even at that early date roamed the coast country, now known as California. The millions of cattle ranging in southern and western Texas at the close of the Civil War were all of the Spanish breed and originated from the cattle taken to Mexico by the Spaniards in the sixteenth century. The absence of live stock in the new states and territories above mentioned provided a splendid outlet for this surplus of cat tle, and the success of accidental tests made by people crossing the plains and compelled to winter, their stock without feed other than they could obtain, for themselves, proved the nutrition and feeding value of the grasses and forage plants covering the northwestern plains. The movement began in the early '6o's, including first a few droves of cattle that found market in Indian Territory and eastern Kansas, increasing in volume with each passing year until it reached its flood tide in 1884, when it was estimated that 800,000 cattle were moved over the Trail. ; . A few scattered herds were driven in '85 and as late as '86, but the volume had greatly subsided and gradually ceased alto gether, on account of the occupation of the country along the Trail by settlers and the difficulty of crossing the country with large numbers of stock without trespassing and incurring the ire of the settlers. 42 WYOMING HISTORICAL SOCIETY The "Trail" represented the routes over which this tremen dous movement of cattle was made from the countries as far south as the Gulf of Mexico to a line as far north as Southern Canada. In appearance and shape it was not unlike the branches of a stream, coming in from different directions until it finally reached the main highway or channel, starting in the neighborhood of Brownsville and Corpus Christi, eastward to Gonzales and Vic toria. The Trail through Texas and Indian Territory included two branches, and came to be known as the Eastern and Western Trails ; the branches of the Eastern Trail converging at a point not far from the present city of Austin, extending north through Fort Worth and on through the Indian Territory on almost a di rect line, northward to Dodge, Kansas ; the Western Trail, with its different branches, converging not a great way from San An tonio and extending north and west to the Red River not far frbni the present town of Wichita Falls and joining the Eastern Trail at Dodge. From Dodge north to Ogallala, Nebraska, the Trail represented the main highway, but at Ogallala it again had its di verging points, one branch extending up the South Platte River to points in Colorado and southern Wyoming, including a branch up Pole Creek to points in the neighborhood of Cheyenne; another crossing over to the North Platte, following this -river generally up to the Nebraska and Wyoming line, where' there were other diverging lines, some of which extended north to the eastern side of the Black Hills into North and South Dakota ; and yet another branch following up the Platte River into Wyoming and then ex tending north and west into Montana, almost as far as the Cana dian line. The class of cattle moved included all ages and all kinds; ex cept calves, which in the movement of female cattle were num erous enough on the Trail, but were in almost all cases either given away or destroyed in order to save trouble and to avoid delaying the movement of the herd. And here let me say that the founda tion of mariy a valuable herd was laid by the acquisition of these calves along the route. The numbers handled and driven by companies or individuals ranged from a few hundred, including one of several brands in a herd, to as many as 25,000 or 30,000 head, driven annually. As a rule the herds numbered from 2)500 to 3,500, and in rare instances 4,000 head. The average was 3,000 and 3,500 was known as a large herd. While some of-the owners drove the cattle for the purpose of maturing them on their own ranges, the great majority were un der contract to northern buyers, who would receive them at points along the Trail, such as Dodge, Ogallala, Julesburg, and not in frequently at Cheyenne. ' *; " "' " '¦- MISCELLANIES, 1919 43 The ordinary outfit and equipment of a herd included usually from 10 to 12 men — the foreman, cook, horse wrangler and from 7 to 8 cowboys ; a mess wagon drawn by 4 horses or mules (in the early days of the business oxen were used) ; a band of saddle horses, ordinarily from 40 to 60 head, giving 5 or 6 horses to the man and 2 or 3 extra for the foreman. The horses were furnished by the owner, but the saddles, bridles and bedding were owned and supplied by the men them selves. The wages paid were about as follows : $100.00 to the foreman, $40.00 to the cook and $30.00 to the horse wrangler and the cowboys. A trip over the Trail was the most severe test of physical en durance, and the constant round of daily duties became very mo notonous, being varied only by a case of "more so" on account of bad weather arid storms, but it had its compensations as I shall en deavor to show. And now if the members of the Club will overlook and forgive personalities for a few minutes, I shall endeavor to tell of some of my own experiences when I came over the Trail. My experience on the Trail began March 17, 1879, one day's drive north of the City of Austin, and included a trip southward about 200 miles to the ranges bordering on the Gulf of Mexico, in the neighborhood of Matagorda Bay, where, after a week's travel, we were occupied for some two weeks receiving and branding our herd of 3,000 steers, ranging in ages from one to five years. This was at a point not far from the present town of Victoria, Texas. The branding at that time was an entirely different process from that of today. Then we roped and threw the cattle almost entirely on foot, as we were saving our horses to work with on'the Trail, and the roping process was very hard on them as well as being extremely dangerous, owing to the characteristic viciousness of the cattle during the roping and branding. It was less difficult- for a man to dodge or escape the fighting cattle than for a horse to do so. Employers thought it better to use men, and hire extra help if necessary, rather than to risk the horses, for then men were indeed "cheaper than horses." Our best help in branding these cattle were negroes and Mexicans, who were the most proficient ropers on foot that I have ever known. The cattle were thrown by roping them by the front feet. When our herd was complete we started on our travels, which lasted over a period of about 5 months, beginning in the early days of April and ending on the 27th day of August, when we turned the herd loose at a point on the Running Water, just a mile west of the present town of Lusk, Wyoming. The only sign of civilization for miles around that point was a road ranch on the banks of Running Water on the Cheyenne and Deadwood stage coach and freight road. 44 WYOMING HISTORICAL SOCIETY In our travels we averaged about 15 or 20 miles a day with the cattle. A day's routine was about as follows : The men were di vided as a rule into two reliefs in the day time and four reliefs of night guards, the latter usually of two men each and each guard on duty from two to two and a half hours. The last guard in the morning called the cook and after breakfast had been eaten the daily round commenced. The last relief turned the cattle from the bed ground in the morning and they were allowed to graze until about 7 or 8 o'clock. Then after breakfast the foreman would go on, followed by the cook and horse wrangler with the wagon, and locate the water and site for the noon camp. In the meantime the entire force of men would bunch the cattle and herd them toward the Trail. After the discipline of a few days the cattle would take the Trail and march like soldiers ; there were always natural leaders among them that would step out and lead the herd. During the entire journey the 'cattle were not allowed, if possible to avoid it, to take one step except in the direction of their destination, and in this way they would often cover two or three miles while grazing and before the day's march had really commenced, and as great a distance when the day's march was over. I have often viewed these trailing cattle from a hilltop or some slight elevation when strung out from a half to a mile in length, and to me they never resembled anything quite so much as an im mense serpent, with its sinuous, undulating movements. After the herd had been driven from six to ten miles, accord ing to the distance to be traveled that day to reach the nooning point or the night camp, they would again be thrown off the Trail from one to two miles distance from the water, with a view of allowing them to reach the water a few at a time and thus protect .against a rush to the water that would disturb and muddy it, for then they would not drink to their satisfaction. As a rule one-half of the men would be detailed to stay with the cattle while they were grazing and the other half would be relieved to go on to the noon day camp, where they would remain until they had had dinner and changed horses. By the time dinrier was finished and the horses changed the herd would, as a rule, be on the water and rest ing, where they would be allowed to remain under ordinary cir cumstances until from two to three o'clock, according to the length of drive that it was necessary to make to get to the next watering place and the distance to be traveled during the afternoon. After leaving the water the wagon and horses would be moved on "to the next camping place, generally from six to eight miles away, where the pasture was more apt to be fresh and not so badly grazed off as around the watering places, and here again after making a drive in the afternoon, usually shorter than that of the forenoon, the herd would be diverted from the Trail when MISCELLANIES, 1919 45 within two or three miles of camp and allowed to graze in until time to round them up and bed them down for the night. After supper was eaten and the cattle disposed of for the night the cowboys, with the exception of those on the relief, would gather about the camp fire and tell their most vivid and thrilling tales, each trying to outdo the other. When we would be nearing a town or station on the railroad where trail supplies could be had and where it was usually possible for the cowboys to find the diversions characteristic of the fron tier, the boys would take turns in going "to town," and these little excursions were eagerly looked forward to and enjoyed. The vicissitudes of the trip were many including instances of long drives across barren country, where perhaps there was a shortage of either grass or water — -sometimes of both — for long distances, and whole herds of cattle were known to go blind after being compelled to suffer intense thirst for several days. Then there was the danger to be encountered in crossing swollen streams, which had to be forded at any cost. The difficulty of crossing the herd and horses as a rule was not great, though not infrequently numbers of cattle would be lost through drowning, particularly when the herd would become confused and "mill" in swimming water, and once in a great while a man and his horse would drown and wash away in the muddy current of the river. The crossing of the swimming rivers with a mess-wagon and team and saving the supply of provisions, was one that involved all kinds of personal risks and danger of damage to or entire loss of provisions. The importance of saving these will be better un derstood wheri the long distance to the sources of supply is re membered. Not infrequently the herd would be thrown to water on a stream with terrific qualities of miring. Not often, to be sure, but once in a while, the water would be so strong with alkali that we would sustain a loss in that way. I have seen the cattle stuck in the mire, probably in only a few inches above their hoofs, but it would prove so tenacious in character that they could be gotten out only by carefully working around each hoof and digging away the mire, releasing one foot at a time. Any attempt to pull them out by roping or by hand would have resulted in pulling the animal to pieces, so firmly were they embedded. Then there were the frequent electrical storms at night, when instead of being "off and on" as when' we stood relief, we were "on and on" throughout the entire night to hold the frightened herd together, as they were oftentimes stampeding and running from darkness to dawn. It was not an unusual thing under such conditions to stand guard in the rain all night long with the cattle running every few minutes, and when the only thing visible was the electricity on our horses' ears and the lightning creeping or crawling along the ground at our very feet. More than once in 46 WYOMING HISTORICAL SOCIETY my experience I have seen cattle killed within 25 or 30 feet of me. With the coming of daylight we would begin a number of short circuits over the surrounding country to try to discover traijs leading from the herd made by cattle that had escaped during the night, and an accurate count would be necessary to determine definitely as to the shortage of numbers. However, I do not now recall a single instance when after such a night's experience, without regard to the absence of rest for both man and beast for the past twenty-four hours, we did not start on the Trail with the plan of making our usual fifteen or twenty miles that day. The fare was of the most frugal kind, being composed only of the barest necessities. The reason for this was the difficulty in hauling, for we had to economize with the teams, which were very scarce and could hardly be bought at any price, and stations at which the supplies could be obtained were hundreds of miles apart. I remember a conversation between two cowboys one evening while we were sitting around the campfire. One of them was criticising the cook for being so very untidy. The other said, sar castically, "I don't think you are fair in roasting the cook, for he can't keep clean when his mess-box is so greasy." So you will see that an outfit on the Texas Trail was no place for a fastidious person. Our "neighbors" on the Trail included the men with other herds, both in front of and behind us. traveling within a radius of a few miles. Our relationship with them was the same as is usual in other lines of human endeavor — friendly or otherwise, according to whether our interests were in common or clashed. Particularly did this apply to the question of water and feed for our cattle and desirable camp and bed grounds. If a foreman al lowed a neighbor to get in ahead of him to water or an especially desirable bed ground, he was criticized by his men — although not to his face, of course — as a "punkin roller" whose proper sphere of usefulness was on the farm. On my first trip we never saw. as I remember it, a single habitation of man from a point in Texas, fifty miles south of Red River, until we reached Dodge, Kansas, 50 miles north of the Kan sas and Indian Territory line, at the crossing of the Cimarron River, a distance of 400 miles. When we reached the river there was nothing in sight but a bed of sand over which one could walk without even dampening the soles of one's boots ; within half an hour after this enormous herd of cattle had "struck" the river bed there was a flow of at least six inches of water running over the sand as a result of the tramping by the cattle, and in this way our herd was watered without, difficulty. Another interesting thing I might mention is that I do not remember coming in contact with or seeing a wire fence between MISCELLANIES, 1919 47 Fort Worth, Texas, and the head of the Running Water in Wyo ming. To illustrate how our state has developed : Mr. J. D. Wulf- jen, the foreman of our outfit and I were talking one day, and he said to me: "You know, there are a couple of fool Englishmen that have taken a herd of cattle away out to Powder River, and they are getting three-year old beeves off the range that weigh 1200 pounds in the market." Shortly after entering Indian Territory we encountered vast numbers of Indians, who hung on our trails almost incessantly, demanding pay for pasture crossing their territory. The conten tion growing out of such demands would not infrequently result in altercations, sometimes of a serious nature, between the cowboys and Iudians,.if the Indians were not satisfied. However, usually we would give them what they wanted, if at all possible, in order to be rid of them. Then they would ask for a "paper, paper," meaning a written word or two- that thev could show to the fore man of the next outfit in the way of recommendation, to the effect that they were good Indians and worthy of consideration. Of course as the Indians could not read these messages it gave the cowboys endless opportunities to play jokes on them, and you may be sure the opportunities were not overlooked. Not infrequently in these messages the name applied to the Indian would be anything but a recommendation. In addition to the danger growing out of any misunderstand ing with the Indians was the greater danger of their becoming dis gruntled, for they would then almost invariably attempt to stam pede the cattle at night while on the~bed ground, and in this way take their chances on securing the strays from the herd, which in the short time allowed at that one place would be overlooked in an effort again to regather or round up the cattle that had escaped under such conditions. In the majority of cases the cattle were under contract for delivery on a certain date, and the distance to be covered each day was carefully mapped out and followed. One of the astonishing things in moving these cattle was the moderate loss in numbers sustained on the trip, and the very trifling expense involved in moving them such a great distance. Between the Gulf line and the average point in Wyoming a dis tance of approximately 1,500 miles was involved. When the cat tle were started they were generally very thin and in poor condi tion, and there was necessarily some loss incurred by those that were foot-sore and unable to travel. A slight loss also was un avoidable on account of the storms at night. In spite of all this the last herd of cattle that I came through with, numbered at the start 3,47°. and we turned loose on one of the tributaries of Cheyenne River, 3,430, and this without doing any of the "recruiting" along the Trail, for which cattle men have a proverbial reputation. 48 WYOMING HISTORICAL SOCIETY The actual expense involved in moving this herd of cattle was about, all told, except the cost of the cattle lost, as I remember it, between 40 and 50 cents a head. There is one feature of the trip that I feel I must mention particularly, because it impressed me so strongly, and that was the ever-changing but ever-beautiful scenery through which we passed. As our route lay northward, as I mentioned before, for a distance of hundreds of miles, we had almost perpetual spring. Feed and water became more plentiful as we cleared the straggling settlements, until we found ourselves, in this way at least, in per petual clover, particularly when we had entered the Indian Ter ritory. Going south from the starting point difference in the growth of all kinds of vegetation was easily noted from day to day. At our starting point the green grass was perhaps two or three inches long; on the Gulf of Mexico, 200 miles south, it was easily ten inches long. At our starting point people were just planting their gardens ; in the coast country we found all kinds of vegetables already grown and matured. The trip was indeed beautiful : the wide level stretches of country covered with a splendid growth of grass and ornamented with all kinds of fragrant flowers, with here and there a beauti ful grove of live oak trees with long trailing moss was a wonder ful sight. The live oak is a tree unusually slow of growth and many of these old trees seen on that journey had been marking time for hundreds of years when the Declaration of Independence was signed. All this, with the balmy spring air, the Gulf breezes playing and the air filled with the songs of all kinds of birds, rep resented an experience not to be forgotten in a lifetime. After a hard night's work with stampeding cattle and the ele ments, every man would swear that that trip would be his last, but I never knew a man to* give up work on the Trail because of its physical hardships, and I knew men at that time who had been over the Trail eight or ten times, each trip fraught with its own particular dangers. Perhaps if the Trail were still used they would even now be making their journeys over it, if still alive. I think the reason for this lay in the fact that however dreary and monotonous the days became, there was a real fascination con nected with the experiences of the Trail, due in part to the con stant change of scene that came with each day's travel, and a new. camp every night. Then too the most hardened and unobservant cowboy could not help but be impressed with the beautiful and ever varying scenery on the way. The element of danger that was a part of almost every day's experience did not detract from the fascination of the trip, you may be sure — the danger from Indians and the holding of a large herd of cattle in a night so dark that no ray or glimmer of light was to be seen, and when the most in significant incident or the slightest accident — a stumbling horse, a MISCELLANIES, 1919 49 flash of lightning, the smell of a wild animal— might cause a stam pede that would last for hours. After such a night of hardship and terror the men would be exhausted and utterly discouraged with their lot, but a good night's rest would cause them to look upon life in the same cheerful way again. In conclusion let me say that a goodly percentage of live stock is still moving from the pastures and ranges of" the southwest to the northern states, and more recently another movement number ing many thousands of cattle, greatly improved in breeding, is made directly from the southern pastures to the feed lots of the northern states and as far east as the State of New York, where they are finished on grain and sold as "baby beef;" this in ages ranging from one and a half to two and a half years ; in striking contrast to the order which required from four to six and even seven years in which to mature an animal for beef. Then, too, these cattle are now moved in the same number of days that it originally required months. ¦ It is not unlikely that had it not been for the building of the riorth and south lines of railway, there would have been estab lished a permanent highway, not only wide enough to serve for large bands of cattle to trail over, but widened areas to serve as grazing stations while enroute to the north, so important was this movement from a commercial and economic standpoint. In fact a plan for such legislation was actually advocated 'before the building of the railways mentioned. The building of these, to gether with the encroachment of settlers, served to bring about an entire abandonment of the old system. What at one time was a great highway traversed by millions of" cattle in charge of thousands of men and accompanied by hun dreds of thousands of horses, has been abandoned, and lives now, if at all, only as a part of the history and development of the great West in which we live. Letter Written for Cheyenne Industrial Club by Mr. Hiram B. Kelly Denver, Colorado, March 22nd, 1915. Mr. H. B. Crain, Cheyenne, Wyoming.- My Dear Sir : — In answer to your letter of March 19th, 1915, I will say: I left Independence, Missouri, the 8th day of May, 1849, for California, up the North Platte, by way of old Fort Laramie (then in the Dakotas, now Wyoming), at that time an American Fur Company post. Stayed in California until 1852, in the .mines ; back by way of the Isthmus to Independence, Missouri, in 1853; drove six yoke of cattle to a freight wagon to Santa Fe, New Mexico, and back in the fall. The freight train consisted of about twenty-five wagons and about thirty men. In 1854 I drove ten mules over the same route to Santa Fe, New Mexico, loaded with merchandise for merchants in Santa Fe — about thirty ten-mule teams in the train — and back in the fall. In 1855 went with a mail party from Independence, Missouri, to Santa Fe, New Mexico, working for the mail contractors, H°ck- aday & Hall, in which business I remained until 1857. The mail went each way every month, taking about twenty-one days to make the trip, allowing the balance of the time for lay-over for the teams to rest. We had many difficulties with the Indians at dif ferent times. In September, 1856, Colonel Sumner had a- fight with the Cheyenne Indians in the Smoky Hjll country, and I met him at Little Arkansas as he was on his way to Fort Leavenworth and I was on my way with the mail party to Santa Fe, New Mex ico. He was camped below the road some distance and sent an orderly up to say that he wanted to see me. I went down to his camp ; he told me that he had had a fight with the Cheyenne In dians on the Smoky Hill and had killed some eleven of them, and that I had better look out on my route crossing the Arkansas ; he thought that I might come in contact with these Indians and they would be on the warpath. I asked him for an escort until I met the incoming mail to Independence, and he said his mules were poor and he could not furnish me with an- escort. I told him I would have to go ahead and do the best I could, I supposed, with out an escort, which I did. After I crossed the Arkansas, one evening in the sand hills some ten miles from the crossing, I ran into a band of about one hundred Cheyenne warriors, all painted MISCELLANIES, 1919 51 up and on the warpath. They jerked me off the seat of the coach and wanted to know if I was "capitan" — meaning the man in charge. I told them, "Yes." They said they had had a fight with the Great White Father's soldiers, who had killed some of them. They took the wood off the top of my coach and built a little fire, got out their pipes and formed a ring around the fire and put us mail boys inside of it, and they told us they had had a fight with the soldiers, and the soldiers had killed some of their party and they wanted revenge, and they proposed to take it out of us, but I out-talked, them. They had a little Mexican boy along whom they had captured several years before, who had learned to talk the Cheyenne language, and I had a man who could talk Spanish, so I interpreted through my man to their boy, and the boy would in terpret to the Indians what I would say. I told them that there were plenty of them, that they could kill us ; to go ahead and kill us, we could not help ourselves as they outnumbered us and had overpowered us ; but I said the Great White Father, to whom these papers that I was carrying belonged, will kill all of you if you kill'us, so there won't be arty of you left. They would talk be tween themselves, and one party of them was for letting us go and the other wanted to kill us, but after about six hours' jangling amongst themselves they decided to let us go. I told them then, as they had taken .all of our supplies and we had several hundred miles to go before we could get to Fort Union and something to eat, I would have to turn back on my trail that I made that day and catch up with a freight train of Majors, Russell and Waddell that I had passed early that morning to get some supplies, before I could continue my journey. They finally agreed to let me go back, and they formed a line on both sides of the road as we turned around, and there was where I expected they would "feather" me as we went back. I went back to the train, got there about day light that morning, and we fed our mules and laid down and took a sleep, and when we got up the- train had pulled out. We got some thing to eat, hitched up and overtook the train and traveled with it up to the place where the Indians had attacked us, and then went on and made our time into Santa Fe with the mail, traveling day and night, as we had lost several days. Some six years after that, on Horseshoe, at Ben Holliday's old stage line station, I met one of these Indians that was with the party which attacked us up on the Arkansas in 1856, and he told me that after they let us go that night they made up their minds to kill us, and they took after us, but didn't overtake us. In the fall of '58 I took a train of thirty-six eight-mule teams from Atchison, Kansas, loaded with supplies and merchandise for Livingston & Kinkaid, to Salt Lake, Utah. Our mules were all wild and the weather was bad in September. The mules got so thin and poor that we had to winter at Fort Laramie. In the spring of '59 we continued our trip on to Salt Lake, and unloaded 52 WYOMING HISTORICAL SOCIETY our wagons at Salt Lake and Camp Floyd. Camp Floyd was a government post commanded by Johnson. We left the mules in Utah that summer, as Hoard & Smith, the owners of them, thought they could sell them to the government, but they didn't sell them and the mules were taken back to Independence, Missouri, that fall. Meantime I went back to Independence ahead of the mules, and in the fall drove them to St. Louis and put them on the mule market there and they were sold. In March, '60, I drove a four-mule team to Denver for two men by the names of Ki Harrison and Sid Barnes. The wagon was loaded with nails. Nails at that time were worth 25 cents per pound in Denver. The latter part of March, i860, I went up into California Gulch in the vicinity of what is now Leadville. There were some 3*000 people in the gulch that summer when I was there, would be my guess. I mined there that summer, came back to Denver in the fall of i860 and wintered in Denver down on Blake and Sixteenth Street, in a little old frame house where the Inter- Ocean Hbtel now stands. In the spring of '61 I went to Fort Laramie and got a hay con tract from the Government to furnish 100 tons of hay at the post at $29 a ton. Another man and I cut it with scythes. I put in that contract that summer and in the fall of '61 went to work for Ben Holliday on the Overland Stage line, and ran asjnessenger from Julesburg to South Pass several trips and then the superintendent of Slade's put me in charge of the transportation of the bull teams. I had charge of them, putting in wood and hay at the stations along the route. I would place five or six teams at a station and put a man in charge of them and he would go ahead and put in hay and wood according to my directions, and I would travel up and down the line on the stage coaches and see that the work was carried out, etc. In '62 they moyed the stage line from the North Platte road across to Denver, and they ran from Denver, then to Laporte, Cache la Poudre and up Cherokee Trail to Bitter Creek, and then intercepted the old road. We established the Virginia Dale sta tion as headquarters. I got out the logs to build that station. In '63 I quit the stage line and went hack over to Fort Lar amie and during the summers traded with the emigrants that were on their way to California and Oregon. I would trade them well stock for lame stock, etc., and followed that up until 1864. In the fall of '63 E. W. Whitcomb and I were putting up a lot of hay in Chugwater and cutting it with scythes to feed our horses that win ter, right where the station now stands. It was pretty tough, hard work, and I got tired one day and threw my scythe up in a bunch of willows, and told them I was through. In the spring of '68 I bought some teams, took a contract for helping to move the government posts Fort Reno and Fort Phil Kearney down to Fort Steele in Wyoming. During that time, just MISCELLANIES, 1919 53 after I got back off that trip in the fall, I was living on Horse Creek twenty-five miles north of Cheyenne. The Indians came along and ran off twenty- four or twenty-five horses— all I had but one. In 1869 a man named John Richards and I took a wood and hay contract for Fort Fetterman. We went up in the spring and started in to work on our contract. He was to put in the hay and I was- to put in the wood. He had mule teams .and I had ox teams. During the summer he got drunk and riding along in front of the settlers' store at Fort Fetterman, he shot and killed a soldier who was sitting alongside the settlers' store and then he went with the Indians that were on the war path. I was at that time camping on Deer Creek, above the Fort some thirty miles. We were then working on the hay. The Indians came along one day and got after my men who were running the mowers and they all got into the brush and willows and beaver dams and lay there two days and came into camp at night, wet as rats. I could not get them to cut any more hay, so I went to Omaha to the chief quartermaster and tried to get the contract annulled, but they needed the hay and would not stand for it. The men would not do any more work while I was away. I came back down to the Chugwater along about December. I had to hitch up my train and come over to Cache la Poudre, in Colorado, and bought the hay and had it baled and hauled up to Fort Fetterman about two hundred miles, at $20 per ton. I lost about $5,000 on the one hundred tons of hay. I had William M. Brown in charge of the train. In July, 1870, 1 sold all my work cattle to a man by the name of Pritchard. We loaded them right where the Cheyenne depot now stands into the. cars in one of those little short chutes that they loaded and unloaded horses in. They were the first cattle loaded and shipped out of Wyoming, and they went to Paris for beef, as it was the time of the Franco-German war. I got $70 per head for them and Pritchard got about $1 50 per head. In the fall of 1870 came my first experience in the range cat tle business. That fall I brought two hundred head of two-year old heifers on the Chugwater. The country was all open then and I had good success with the cattle. I think I had about ten Dur ham bulls with this bunch of cows. The only range stuff in the country at that time was that of Bullock & Mills, later Bullock & Hunton, who had a small bunch of cows below the mouth of Rich ard's, known as S. O. Ranch. In the winter of 1871 and '72 I got a government beef contract at Fort Fetterman. I bought my beef cattle to fill that contract from Ab Loomis, who lived on the Cache la Poudre, in Colorado. They were mostly dry cows. I stayed on the ranch at Chugwater with this herd of cattle until 1884, when I sold out to a Scotch company. 54 WYOMING HISTORICAL SOCIETY In February, 1873, ( ?), the association was formed known as the Laramie County Stock Men's Association. Mr. W. L. Kuy- kendall was secretary. The association was composed of the few stockmen in the country who had a number of herds in Western Nebraska, Northern Colorado, and at that time South-eastern Wy oming. The purpose of this association was to further the inter ests of the range cattle business, and to formulate a system of round-ups. M. B. Boughton was the first president of the asso ciation. We used to hold meetings in Judge Kuykendall's court room in the old probate court, and had some very warm times, in discussing the best way to handle this new business, but we had' an exceptionally good class of men in with us, which made the re sults of the association very productive. A little later the actual industry began to grow. Large interests came from Eastern money centers, such as Boston, and this business developed into the largest industry in the West. In about 1879 this little asso ciation was merged into what is known as the Wyoming Stock Growers' Association, of which A. H. Swan was the. first presi dent and Tom Sturgis secretary. This association protected the stockgrowers when they made their shipments to Chicago, which at that time was the only mar ket, by having inspectors at the points to which they were shipped to inspect the brands. When sold the proceeds of any man's brand (it did not make any difference who had shipped the cattle) were held out and sent to the owner. The mavericks on ranges were generally conceded to belong to the man that owned the stock on that range, or what they considered his range. Later on the mav ericks were sold and the proceeds turned into the association1. These systems were adopted at the annual meetings, which were held in Cheyenne the first week in April of each year, at which time there was a gathering of all cattle kings, ranchmen and ranch foremen of the different outfits, who were always there to see that "the round-up districts were divided so that they could be handled without too much confusion and for the benefit of all concerned. After selling out I handled some stock down on Bear Creek, at the Y-Cross ranch. I did not consider I was in the stock busi ness after I sold out on Chugwater in 1884. The association is still in existence and has proven to be a success in the Western country, Wyoming especially. Yours truly, (Signed) Hiram B. Kelly. 1• lis